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CONSTANTINOPLE
ANCIENT and MODERN,
with Excurſions to
the SHORES and ISLANDS of
the ARCHIPELAGO and
to the TROAD.
By JAMES DALLAWAY, M.B. F.S.A.
late Chaplain and Phyſician of
THE BRITISH EMBASSY
TO THE PORTE.
Cou
7
w
LGBT EGIPATIES
LONDON,
Printed by T. Bensley ,
for T.Cacell Juu? & W.Davies,in the Strand.
1797.
}
VNDER THE AVSPICES OF
THE MOST NOBLE
I OHN S T V ART,
MARQVIS OF BVTE,
EARL OF WINDSOR AND BVTE,
VISCOVNT MONTIOY AND KINGARTH,
BARON MOVNTSTVART OF WORTLEY, CARDIFF,
MOVNTSTVART OF CYMRA AND
INCHMARNOCK,
LORD LIEVTENANT OF THE COVNTIES OF
GLAMORGAN AND BVTE,
ONE OF HIS MAIESTY'S MOST HONOVRABLE PRIVY
COUNCIL,
AND HIS AMBASSADOR EXTRAORDINARY AND
PLENIPOTENTIARY AT THE COVRT
OF MADRID,
THIS VOL V M E
IS OFFERED TO
THE PVBLIC.
IVNE V. MDCCXCVI.
DR
720
115
CO N T E N T S.
SECTION I
PAGE
Extent and Plan of the Tour - Preſent ſtate of Aſia Minor-
Ionian landſcape — Mountains, lakes, and rivers - Turkiſh vil-
lages—Fountains—Character of the Turks and modern Greeks
- Caſt of countenance in the men reſembling the antique-
Female beauty—Schools of portrait painting—Mode of travelling
- Accommodations — General view of writers concerning the
Levant
I
SECTION II.
Summary account of Byzantium Of Conftantinople ſince the poſlef-
fion of the Turks—City walls—Gates-Seven towers—Seraglio
Sublime Porte-Church of St. Irene, now the armoury--The
two courts, with their gates—Column of Theodofius-Kioſques
--Sultan's new garden-Baths ----Library-Treaſures--Apart-
ments of ſtate-Chamber of audience~-Inhabitants—Sketch of
female economy in the feraglio, with the preſent arrangement of the
harèm .
13
iv
CONTENTS.
PAGE
SECTION III.
.
Of the political Syſtem in the feraglio, and the office of viſer
Revenues of the ſultan, and taxes inſtituted by him—Finances of
the empire-Anecdotes of the ſultan Of the heirs apparent Of
Mehmet Melèk, late viſer-Of the perſons who compoſe the preſent
ruling cabinet-Of the capoudàn paſha and the marine — Of Che-
liby Effendi- Of Ghazi Haſsan, his influence with Sultan Abdul-
hamid in the inſtances of Mavro-yeni and Petraki, two candidates
for the throne of Wallachia-Kiſlar agha-Reception and audi-
ences of the ſtate officers--Public proceſſions and ceremonies of the
fultan
35
SECTION IV.
Of the imperial moſques-Santa Sophia-Tenure of vacàf, and ac-
count of its eſtabliſhment-Sultan Mohammed II.--Greek archi-
tects—Sultan Bayazıd—Sultan Selim-Sultan Ahmet I.-Suley-
manie--Shad Zadèh--Oſmande-Lalelà—Turbèhs or ſepulchral
chapels Moſques built by validè ſultàns—Public libraries and
academies, and their inſtitution .
51
SECTION V.
Atmeydàn or hippodrome-Egyptian obeliſk--Serpentine column_
Brazen obeliſk-Game of djrit-Remarks on ancient and modern
Conſtantinople--Streets-Houſes, and domeſtic architecture--Si-
lence in the ſtreets--Fires, and the conduct of the Turks at them
Khans— Bazárs—Bezeſtèn-- Deſcription of different nations-
The Turks, the Greeks, the Armenian, and Jew--Mechanical
trades---Coffee-houſes-Opium-Adminiſtration of public juſtice
CONTENTS.
V
PAGE
-Rammezàn— Sumptuary laws---Dreſs of the Turks---Sketch
of ſociety and manners . .
66
SECTION VI.
Janiſſaries, their inftitution and preſent ſtate-Sketch of military dif-
cipline and arrangement-Boſtandjès-Topdjìs—Greek churches
converted into moſques-- The Fanàl-Four high offices given to
Greeks-Of the princes and their families—Dependance of the
Greek gentry
88
SECTION VII.
The plague-Fountains-Aqueduct of Valens-Ancient ciſterns-
Baths—Columns-Eſki ſerai–Palaces of Greek emperors-Vil-
lage of Eyub—Kiàtchanàh-Gardens—Moſque of Piali Paſha---
Ain Alèh Kavào Serai-Harbour-Environs of Conftantinople .. 106
SECTION VIII.
Galata—Hiſtorical
ſketch—Preſent ſtate—Pera-Corps diplomatique
-Dragomans--Society at Pera- Tandour-Porters--Medreſsèlı
--Mevlevèh derviſhes--Ceremonies and muſic—Princes' iſlands
-Protè-Antigòne—Kalkè-Prinkipo—Monafteries— Return of
the ſultan by water
123
1
SECTION IX.
The Boſporus-Palaces of ſultanàs —- Anecdote of the princeſs Bey
Khan-Houſes of Greeks and Armenians-Oppoſite caſtles
"' vi
CONTENTS,
PAGE
Buyuk-derèh-Summer reſidence of ambaſſadors—Belgrad-Greek
wedding-— Temple of Jupiter Urius, and caſtle on the Aſiatic ſhore
-Cyanæan rocks—Scutari— Turkiſh burying grounds and ce-
remonies
136
SECTION X.
Departure from Conſtantinople—Tophand-View of the feraglio-
The canal of the Boſporus—Scutari, or Cryſopolis- Leander's
tower-Chalcedon—Ancient hiſtory-Oracle~Council-Princes’
iſands, or Dæmonefi~Gulf of Nicomedia—Hiſtory of that city-
Ruins of the palace of Dioclefian--Piętureſque ſcenery at the head
of the gulfInſcription—Eracli—Ancient Heraclia-Heights of
Argenthon_Village of Tavoufhandjil-Plain of Nicaa-City
walls-Hiſtory and antiquities--Preſent ſtate-Lake Aſcanius
Pliny and Catullus-Bazarkeuy.
· 153
SECTION XI.
Approach to Brufa-Annals-Tomb of Sultan Orchàn-Armenian
biſhop-Defcription of the preſent city—Ancient bathsObfer-
vation on the effect of the atmoſphere on landſcape, Viſit to Ifaat
Effendi at his chiftlàk-Aſcent of mount Olympus—Sketch of that
mountain-Apollonia-Scenery on the lake-Ulabad-Greek con-
vent-Panegyris-Dances-- Of Ariadnem-Pyrhica faltatio-Hif-
tory and caſtle of Ulabad-Mount Temnos--Flocks and ſhepherds
-Villages of Turks and Abyſſinian Naves—Burying grounds
Balamede-Lydia--Plain of Hermus or Sarabat-River famous
for golden ſands—Marauders—Territory of Kara Oſmàn Oglà-
Some account of him
.
174
CONTENTS.
vii
PAGE
SECTION XII.
View of mount Sipylus-Fable of Niobe--Magneſia— Deſcription of
the city, caſtle, and moſque-Road to Smyrna-Evening profpeet
of the bay—-Annals of the city under the Greeks, Romans, and
Saracens---Modern calamities-- The plague-Fra Luigi di Pavia
-Anecdote of him, and account of his hoſpital-Birth-place of
Homer --Claim of Smyrna---Bion and Mimnermus natives
Diſcovery of a fatue of Paris--Mount Pagus—The caſtle
Veſtiges of the ſtadium and theatre River Meles— Aqueduets
Turkiſh harèm—Modern Smyrna--Its ſociety, &c.--Mount Gal-
lefiisama Caravan of camels—Vale of Epheſus-River Cäyſter
Deſcription of the port .
. . 193
SECTION XIII.
Of the temple of Diana— Its ancient fplendour and hiſtory--Ancient
Epheſus under the Greeks and Romans--Introduction of chriſtianity
by Timothy, the firſt biſhop-Taken by the Carian princes in 1300
-Foundation of Aiafoluk from its ruins Deſcription of the pre-
ſent veſtiges-Caverns-Story of the ſeven ſleepers in the Koràn
Caſtle, moſque, and aquedret, at hiaſoluk
211
SECTION XIV.
Road from Epheſus toward Miletus—Scala Nova-Coffee-huts, and
the veneration of the Turks for large trees - Mount Mycale-
Chamæleon-Kelibeſh-Priene -- Temple of Minerva Polias-
Panionian games-Mount Latmos---Miletus
229
viii
CONTENTS.
PAGE
SECTION XV.
Sketch of the hiſtory of Miletus—Theatre-Moſque-Flock of cranes
Giawr Ura-Temple of Apollo at Branchida-Greek dances
Whirlwind and thunder-ſtorm-Thomafia--Cavern under the
promontory of Trogyllium-Voyage to Samos-- Account of Samos
— Temple of Juno~Ruins of the cityVathi—Voyage to Claros
and Colophon-Conjecture of the oracular cave ...
239
SECTION XVI.
Claros-Sejejek-Teios—Theatre-Temple of Bacchus-Vourla
Clazimena_Cheſhme-Sea-fight between the Turks and Rufians
in 1770-Arrival at Chio .
261
SECTION XVII.
Ancient hiſtory of Chio Chian wine-Birth-place of Homer City
of Chio, and the preſent ſtate of the iſland-Character of the
Greeks-Villages—Cultivation of gum-maſtic Beauty and dreſſes
of the women—Homer's ſchool-Inſtance of longevity--Caſtle and
church
270
SECTION XVIII.
Return to Cheſhme and Vourla~Smyrna~Inbat, or noon-tide zephir
- Menimen-Kliſsèkery-Inſcriptions--Anecdote of the agha of
Umàk-Curina-Temple of Hercules-Purpoſes to which ancient
marbles are applied by the Turks-Pergamus--Attalian kings
CONTENTS
ix
PAGE
Library of Eumenes-Death of Attalus Philometor, and the fuc-
ceffion of the Romans
287
SECTION XIX.
Removal of the treaſures of Attalus from Pergamus to Rome--Hiſtory
of Pergamus—Modern city the reſidence of Hadjem Morad Oglum
Ruins of the church of St. John-Mountain and caſtle-Temple
dedicated to Trajan-Palace of the Attalian kings-Library,
Statues and pictures - Tefellated pavements
Naumachia
Theatrem Temple of ÆſculapiusCommon fewers—Vale of Caicus
-Reception by the agha of Ayaſınath-Deſcription of the domeſtic
life of a Turkiſh country gentleinan
299
SECTION XX.
Nand of Mytelene City of Mytelene Road through olive grounds
Reception with Hadji Bekir Effendi-Methymna-Petra-Mol-
leva-Mehmet Bey--Cuſtom of inheritance in Mytelene--Climatema
Poets—Terpander, Alcæus, and Sapphio-Wine fo eſteemed by the
RomansOf thoſe who have found an aſylum at Mytelene
Greeks after the loſs of Conſtantinople—Leonard of Chio-Extent
according to Strabo and Pliny—Prize for beauty given in the
temple of Juno Pittacus-Military hiſtory of the iſland-Influence
of the Turks-Leave Mytelene Voyage to Narla-Chebnam
Evijek-- Arijèk-Profpeet of the Troad
312
1
SECTION XXI.
Alexandria Troas Deſcription of its preſent fiate and ancient hiſtory
-Deſtruction by the Goths-Removal of columus to Conftantinople
b
х
CONTENTS,
PAGE
Hot baths at Lidga Hamàm—Udjek Tepee~Chiftlik of Haſſan
Paſha-Temple of Apollo Thymbræis-Promontory and city of
Dardanus—Chanak Kaleſ, or Dardanelles—Caſtle and town-
The conful-Helleſpont — European caſtle of Chelit bawhri-
Seſtos—Story of Hero and Leander-Abydos—Cynoſlema or tomb
of Hecuba-Koum-kalefi— Lower caſtle-Survey of the plain of
Troy—Aianteum or tomb of Ajax-Ilium proſpect-Halyleli-
Turkiſh wedding—Tumuli round the plain of Troy~Site of an
ancient city
326
SECTION XXII.
Approach to the village of Bounarbafi— The agha Hadji Mehmet
-Examination of the lite of Troy-Scæan gate-Homeric geo-
graphy-Hot fource of the Scamander— Tumuli—Proſpect from
the citadel-Hypotheſes of M. Chevalier and Mr. Bryant-Yeni-
cheyr, or Sigæum--Mr. Wood's opinion combated reſpecting the
true fite of Troy—Sigaan inſcription and bas relief—Tombs of
Antilochus, Achilles and Patroclus - Opening of the tomb of
Achilles by Compte Choiſeul Gouffier in 1787-Extract from M.
Chevalier's obſervation upon it—Letter reſpecting the real diſco-
very—-At Yenicheyr-Ceremony of a Greek eſpouſal Dreſs of
the Villagers—Geography of the Troad Cities–Demetrius of
Scepſis-Conftantine's new city
343
SECTION XXIII.
and of Tenedos--City of Æolica—— Temple of Apollo Smintheus
-Modern town and caſtle Hiſtory~Voyage to Conſtantinople—
Becalmed in the Helleſpont-Proſpects-Hexamilia—Galipoli-
Bergas--Lampfaco-Iſland of Marmoram-Ancient Proconneſius
..
CONTENTS.
xi
PAGE
Anecdote of Turkiſh profelytes—Rodoſto---Heraclea-Eſki-Eraclkei
Selibria-Buyuck and Kouchouk Checkmegeh-Conſtantinople 360
SECTION XXIV.
View of the Greek church-Doctrines-Ceremonies—Liturgies and
offices-Churches--Piętures, and veſtments of the clergy-Diſci-
plineEcclefiaftical and monaſtic inſtitutions Patriarchal fynod
- Funeral of a Greek prieſt-Anecdote-Revenues of the church
-Pilgrimages--Ruffian church.
371
SECTION XXV.
View of the Armenian church—Doctrines and rites—Faſts and feſti-
vals—Diſcipline of the clergy—Monaſtics and ſeculars—Character
of the Armenian nation—Mohammedans—Jews-Aſtrology and
ſuperſtition of the Turks—Poetry—Mechanic arts—Practice of
phyfico-Turkiſh juriſprudence-Account of the preſs at Conftan-
tinople, and a ſpecimen of Turkiſh literature
382
SECTION XXVI.
View of the modern Greek language-Its origin and Syſtem-Speci-
mens of poetry— Tranſlations ~ Pronunciation Juriſprudence of
the modern Greeks--Cauſes of the decline of the arts---Concluſion 398
ADVERTISEMENT.
!
THE aquatint engravings which are added in embelliſhment of the
following pages are taken from drawings on the ſpot by Mr.
GAETANO MERCATI, a young artiſt now reſident in London, who
accompanied his excellency Mr. Liſton on his embaffy to the Porte.
Many of his friends may recogniſe in them the accuracy, if not the
elegance, of his pencil.
Upon ſubjects of claſſical erudition, concerning which I was
diffident of my own acquirements, I am proud to own my obliga-
tion for communications, the value of which is exceeded only
by
the liberal manner in which they have been made.
J. D.
DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.
PAGE
PAGE
to face 19
20
Seven Towers...
Seraglio Point
Turkiſh lady..
Apollo Dydimæus.
Juno at Samos.
30
327
253
Apollo Thymbræus...
Map of Troad.
Tomb of Ajax..
Plain of Troy...
Tomb of Hector ..
.
331
336
338
340
345
ERRAT A.
Page 31, for “ Brow15," read “Bowmls;" 74, for “ laminous," r. luminous ;" 80, for
“Chibaley," r. “chivalry;" 139, for “luminated," r. “ laminated ;" 172, for “ fractus," r.
“ fructus ;" 185, for “e tendre e," r. “eſt tendre et ;" 195, for “ exeo," r. "ex eo;" 208,
for « Ηοσκα,” r. « Ησυκα;” 235, for « ΠΡΙΟΙ. ΠΛΕΙΣΤΟΙ. ΝΕΥΣ. ΟΗ. ΙΛΕΙΣΤΟΙ,” r.
TIPIHNETS. 01. ITAEISTOI;" 249, for “doctu,” T. « docta ;" 275, for “ Chii," r.
“ Chiis;" 294, n. for“ after,” r. “ before;" 337, for “ wooded,” r. wooden;" 338, for “ from
policy to him," r. " him from policy to;" 354, for “ irradically," r.“radically;" 360, n, for
" Calydrie," r. “Calydne;" 390, for “will the," r. "will be the;" 394, for "popular," r.
admired; 402, n. for " autos," I. " avtos;" 413, for “of," r.“or."
+
CONSTANTINOPLE,
,
ANCIENT AND MODERN N.
SECTION 1.
EXTENT AND PLAN OF THE TOUR--PRESENT STATE OF
ASIA
MINOR-IONIAN LANDSCAPE-MOUNTAINS,
LAKES
AND RI-
VERS-TURKISH VILLAGES-FOUNTAINS-CHARACTER OF THE
TURKS AND MODERN GREEKS-CAST OF COUNTENANCE IN
THE MEN
RESEMBLING THE ANTIQUE-FEMALE BEAUTY-
SCHOOLS OF PORTRAIT PAINTING-MODE OF TRAVELLING
ACCOMMODATIONS GENERAL VIEW OF WRITERS CONCERN-
ING THE LEVANT.
In the following journey from Conftantinople we ſurveyed the
eaſtern coaſt of the ſea of Marmara, and traverſing Anatolia within
a ſmall diſtance of Halicarnaſſus, we purſued the Ægean ſhores on
our return, viſiting the iſlands of Samos, Chio, Mytelene, and Tenc-
dos, and examining the far-famed, but now deſolate region of the
Troad.
This tour compriſes about one thouſand miles.
B
2
The object we fought was an accurate information of the preſent
ſtate of thoſe ruins which were once the pride of claſſic antiquity,
and to inſpect thoſe ſcenes once dignificd by the reſidence of the
moſt enlightened people of their day. The vaſt landſcapes, com-
poſed of features leſs ſubject to change or decay, retain their original
intereſt, and abound in pictures more ſublime and beautiful than thoſe
we had before ſeen, either in nature or on canvas. Of the ſtupen-
dous remains of Grecian magnificence the general view becomes
more fatisfactory in proportion as the imagination is indulged, when
corrected by the hiſtory of their fate; for many of them are nearly
demoliſhed; few columns are ſtanding, and no one temple is com-
plete. Of many cities the very ſite is obliterated by the plough; a
modern hiſtorian of Greece hath obſerved with cqual clegance and
juſtneſs, that “its preſent ſtate, compared with the ancient, is the
ſilent obſcurity of the grave contraſted with the vivid luſtre of active
lifea."
In the lapſe of more than two thouſand years ſuch a change can
excitc no wonder ; but a deſire is encouraged to inquire the lead-
ing cauſes of it, to compare events, and to learn the particular ſtate
of ſuch veſtiges which, having ſurvived violence, are ſtill conſuming
by the flower hand of time. We may be curious to know from for-
mer narratives by how much we have lived too late for the
judging of the ſuperiority of ancient art; and we muſt now be con-
tent to trace with uncertain documents all that is not yet vaniſhed
from the carth, and irrecoverably loſt.
power of
That claſſical traveller George Sandys, who has been ſeldom
excelled by thoſe, who have followed his ſteps, gives the following
ſketch in the quaint but forcible language of his day. “ Thoſe rich
a Gillies's Hiſtory of Greece, Vol. I. p. 335.
3
lands, at this preſent, remain waſte and overgrown with buſhes, rc-
ceptacles of wild beaſts, of thieves and murderers ; large territories
diſpeopled or thinly inhabited; goodly cities made deſolate; ſump-
tuous buildings become ruins ; glorious temples either ſubverted or
proſtituted to impiety ; true religion diſcountenanced or oppreſſed;
all nobility extinguiſhed; no light of learning permitted, nor virtuc
cheriſhed; violence and rapine inſulting over all, and leaving no fe-
curity fave to an abject mind, and unlookt on poverty b.”
The character of the Ionian landſcape hath more of grandeur than
of ſweetneſs. The mountains are vaſt, and connected by many a
lengthened chain; the cliffs are frequently higher than the clouds of
a mid-day ſky; the lakes cover whole diſtricts of country; and the
Ægean ſea is grand from the level expanſe it always offers to the
view. The rivers are great only; they certainly have no beauty, at
leaſt fo diſtant from their ſources as where we ſaw them. Whoever
croſſes the Hermus, the Cäyſter, or the Meander, will admire the in-
vention of poets, or lament the change, for he will liſten in vain for
the dying note of ſwans, or ſearch the ſands for golden ore. He will
fee them only at periods of muddy fulneſs, or total expoſure of their
channels; and wonder at the boldneſs of the fiction. The cataracts,
ſo fine an accompaniment of mountain ſcenery, are only occaſional ;
and we werc not preſent at the moment.
The predominating tints of the country might have been un-
pleaſing from the ſeaſon of our journcy; but the reign of ſpring is
ſoon uſurped by ſummer, and the Engliſh eye will look in vain for
the velvet turf, and the beauties of an embelliſhed lawn. The tem-
perature of the air was mild in the extreme, and thc ferenity of the
weather rarely interrupted.
• Dedication to Sandys' Travel, 1621.
4
But if the ſtyle of landſcape be of the majeſtic ſort, it receives
additional diſcrimination from the accidents of it. Few are occu-
pied by objects which ſo perfectly harmonize, or are more pictu-
refquely peopled. The long flowing dreſs of the inhabitants, the
variety of gaudy colours which they wear, the ſtately march of
camels over plains whoſe extent cannot be diſcerned, or their wind-
ing down precipices with cautious motion, are circumſtances moſt
intimately accordant with the ſcene. The diſtant views of Turkiſh
villages in the bays of mountains, or encircled with cypreſſes in the
vallics, with their ſlender minarehsº, compoſe a variety which ex-
cludes for a time the idea of finiſhed defolation. The duration of the
cypreſs is equalled only by that of the oak: they are ſeldom ſeen
in foreſts. In cemeteries and the ervirons of palaces, ſix feet is a
circumference not uncommon, with a height proportioned to a pyra-
midal ſhape. From the ſhrubs, called cypreſſes, which the climate
of England allows us to rear, no accurate judgment can be formed;
if we have any reſemblance, it is of the yew, originally clipped to a
conic ſhape, but, for many years, ſuffered to recover its foliage.
When Lady Craven mentions Engliſh trees as broomſticks, in an
invidious compariſon with thoſe of Turkey, the certainly alludes
only to the cypreſs. The frequent fountains, all built by uſeful picty,
are placed at certain diſtances, and meaſure plains which ſeem to
widen as we advance.
“ Where Thirſt, wan pilgrim, walks forlorn,
« How does he wiſh ſome cooling wave,
“ To Nake his lips, his limbs to lave;
" And thinks, in every whiſper low,
“ He hears a burſting fountain flow.”
T. WARTON.
• A hollow column always annexed to a moſque with a gallery on the top, from
which the Muezzin or ſexton calls the five hours of prayer.
5
tree.
In thoſe ſituations, if not pictureſque, they are characteriſtic, and
highly ſo, when connected with the ſhade of an umbrageous plane-
It was intereſting to paſs one of theſe at mid-day, and to re-
mark the devout muſulman, after his ablutions, proſtrating himſelf
on his carpet, and repeating in a ſtill voice thoſe addreſſes to the Deity
which are preſcribed by his prophet.
If the artiſt travels over theſe claſſic regions, independently of
ſcenes and ruins that may give dignity to his pictures, he will yet
from the character and habits of the modern inhabitants collect ſuffi-
cient materials for coſtume, and the minuter parts of the pictureſque
deſcription.
We paſſed with too tranſitory a ſtep to collect much of the na-
tional character ; but, as travellers, we found at leaſt neutral civility,
and in no inſtance received inſult. By ſeveral of the Aghas, or Tur-
kiſh country gentlemen, we were received with the greateſt urbanity,
and native ſimplicity of manners. It would be very uncandid to form
an opinion of them from thoſe we meet at Conſtantinople, or even
in the European provinces.
Of the Greeks, it is uſual to make a compariſon with their an-
ceſtors. As the poſſeſſors or the vaſſals of an empire, under thoſe
rulers who encouraged literature, arts, and elegance, or thoſe who
have debaſed the mind by maxims of abject ſlavery, and by acts of
enormous oppreſſion, it is eaſy to conclude how differently they have
been affected. Though in the preſent age, in ſome reſpects, they
experience greater toleration than the conquered ſubjects of
any
other nation, they have in no degree recovered their former energy.
The richer Greeks, for that conſtitutes the fole diſtinction, are verſa-
tile and intriguing, and, with every limited exception, only leſs igno-
rant than their maſters. The lower ranks have an inſtinctive checr-
6
fulneſs, and are the merrieſt creatures imaginable, but are prevari-
cating, and awake to every advantage. That degraded nation is liable
to a certain depravation of mind conſequent on ſlavery. Compelled as
it were by the influence of climate, they indulge in a clamorous and
irrational hilarity, ſo different from the complacent joy of the Turk.
To ſome theirs may appear to be the feſtivity of ſlaves, forgetting their
abaſement, and dancing amid their chains.
A ſource of great amuſement in paſſing through this country is
the variety of the human countenance.
countenance. What makes it more pe-
culiar is the diſtinction of dreſs, and that caſt of features which fo
ſtrongly pourtrays the mind. The old men are perpetually remind-
ing us of thoſe fine attitudes and heads which were ſo happily ſtudied
in the Italian ſchools of painting for ſcriptural ſubjects. The contour
of Grecian ſtatues, and the profiles on their medals, are ſtill to be
ſeen in the faces of their degenerate ſucceſſors; and there is ſome-
times even yet a marked reſemblance between thoſe of heroes, which
have been tranſmitted to us, and the peaſant, or the mariner. In
the iſlands, particularly of Chio, all that ſymmetry of features, and
brilliancy of complexion, which inſpired the poets and heroes of old,
ſtill flouriſhes in a delightful degree. But beauty in this clime is a
vcry ſhort-lived flower; and, as longevity is as common as in others,
we can account for the ſevere farcaſms the poets have beſtowed on
their faded charms, which, it is certain, ſeldom ſurvive the thirtieth
ycar.
The mode of travelling, which the ſtate of the roads will not
admit of improving, is with horſes hired from one diſtant town to
another; their owner and his ſervants attend them, and if a janiſſary
be added for ſecurity, and an interpreter, who is abſolutely neceſſary,
a conſiderable cavalcade is formed. The diſtance is computed by the
hour, and very ſeldom with accuracy; they vary as the tract is
7
mountainous or level. This mode of calculation is taken from the
progreſs of a camel in that time. A gentleman travelling in this
country amuſed himſelf by counting the number of paces a camel in
a caravan uſually advanced, and found after ſeveral day's march, and
cxact average of number and circumſtances, that it amounted to two
Engliſh miles and three quarters.
In moſt of the ſmaller towns are khans at ſtated diſtances. It is
a large room like a barn for the horſes, with a floor raiſed round, and
ſeveral chimnies, for the travellers. Upon this the victuals muſt be
prepared, and the mats ſpread for the night's repoſc. In cities they
are ſomewhat more commodious, as there are ſeparate chambers.
Sometimes, as a gradation in comfort, a Greek is induced for money,
to give up his cottage, and will ſupply neceſſaries. The convents do
not occur very often; they are in general dirty, and ſeldom anſwer
our cxpectations of comfort; they require likewiſe a diſproportionate
reward. But when the traveller is ſo fortunate as to be received
into the houſe of an aghà, he will experience the beſt accom-
modation the country offers. On his departure he muſt offer a
preſent to the maſter, and give money to the ſervants. Trinkets for
the ladies of the harèm d are uſually acceptable.
The Engliſh touriſt muſt endeavour to forget the luxurious con-
veyance he has left behind him, and will owe to the ſpirit with
which he purſues the objects of this country, poſſeſſing on ſo many
accounts a decided fuperiority over others, all the pleaſure, and all
the uſefulneſs of his journey.
d The term “ Harem” ſignifies forbidden or ſacredly appropriate, and is applied to
that part of the houſe in eaſtern countries into which the maſter only can be admitted.
It is uſed collectively ſpeaking for all the females any man maintains.
8
?
I have peruſed with anxious curioſity the details of
many
of
my
predeceſſors in the Levant, reſpecting politics, manners, or topogra-
phy. Some have availed themſelves of the opportunities of genuine
information, whilſt others, paſſing over the country with indolence or
haſte, have been content to diſſeminate unauthoriſed reports, or igno-
rant miſrepreſentations.
To the philoſophic inquirer it will be offered as a curious fact,
that whilſt the European faſhions have been ſo verſatile and unſtable,
the traveller into the Levant more than two centuries ſince, will
preſent a ſcarcely varying picture of the preſent day. The Turks,
collectively ſpeaking, have allowed no innovation in their ſyſtem of
manners, nor has the intercourſe of the Grecks with the Frank na-
tions materially changed the ceremonies and domeſtic habits of a re-
mote era.
In a curſory mention of theſe authors, their chronology, and a
national arrangement ſhall be adopted.
The earlieſt alliance formed by Chriſtians with the Turks, after
they became an European power, was by the French under Francis
the firſt. In the ſuite of their embaſſy or under its auſpices, Gille,
Bclon, d'Arvicux, and Du Loir, inveſtigated with much ſucceſs the
antiquities and cuſtoms of a country venerable in Europe for its for-
mer celebrity, and then rendered intereſting, as having been uſurped
by a people of new manners and eccentric opinions.
Gille was a laborious and claſſical antiquary, concentrating the
cvidences of the Byzantine geographers and hiſtorians; Belon an in-
duſtrious herbalift; d'Arvicux and Du Loir multifarious and amuſ-
ing, but not infallible. Grelot's deſcription of Conſtantinople is that
of a connoiſſeur; he was the firſt who gave a ſcientific idea of the
9
architecture of S. Sophia, diveſted of the exaggerations of Procopius
and others. From the ſenſible and unaſſuming narrative of De la
Mottraye much may be learned, whilſt the work of Thevenot is
known only as a literary impoſture. By Tournefort, one object has
been happily purſued; his botanical diſcoveries and reſearches are
juſtly commended, but the other deſcriptions are mere collections
from thoſe who have preceded him. There is yet a fidelity, or at
leaſt a plainneſs of narrative, very unuſual with his countrymen.. Le
Bruhn's Travels are recommended by numerous views, which can
not boaſt an accurate reſemblance; many of them muſt have been
drawn from memory.
We approach nearer to our own times.
The ſprightly egotiſms of Baron de Tott, his apparent diſregard of
truth, and his love of exciting ſurpriſe, have depreciated in the public
eye the value of his ſketches of that ſingular nation with which he
was ſo intimately converſant. But upon an actual acquaintance
with ſimilar ſcenes and with the ſame characters, candour will diſ-
cover a certain juſtneſs of portrait, however occaſionally caricatured.
In the highly coloured pages of De Guys, and his forced com-
pariſon of the ancient with the modern inhabitants of Greece, taſte
and ingenuity abound, but the poſitive eſtabliſhment of his hypotheſis
muſt be waved.
Thoſe who deſire the moſt accurate information concerning the
religious and civil code of the Ottoman people, detailed from original
evidences, will conſult the truly claborate work of Monſieur Mo-
radgea d'Ohſſon, now ſo deſervedly advanced to the repreſentation of
the Swediſh nation at the Porte. Its rival in ſplendour, though not
in
accuracy, Monſieur le Compte de Choiſeul Gouffier, has likewiſe
offered to the world, cach, we muſt ſtill lament, in an unfiniſhed
ſtate, as we can hope only for their completion in the pacification of
France. The laſt mentioned gentleman, before his promotion to the
10
French embaſſy, had publiſhed his beautiful work, and prefixed a
preliminary diſcourſe breathing ardent ſentiments of liberty, and anti-
cipating the deliverance of Greece from the ſubjugation of the Turks
by the victorious arms of Catherine. Upon his appointment he took
all poſſible means to ſuppreſs the circulation of his opinions, ſo
inimical to the Porte. He now finds an aſylum at Peterſburg.
The Venetian miſſion has likewiſe afforded protection to Italian
travellers ; De la Valle is ſuperior to Belon. Manners and cuſtoms
were more the objects of his attention, and his egotiſm, though
ſometimes ridiculous, is inoffenſive. Of military eſtabliſhments and
the preſent ſtate of literature, intereſting accounts are given by Mar-
ſigli and the Abbate Toderini, and the hiſtory of the Armenians, by
their countryman, Marcheſe Serpos.
In the reign of James I. the Engliſh embaſſy was eſtabliſhed,
prior to which fome accounts of the Levant had appeared in our
language, having been incorporated into the voyages of Hakluyt and
Purchas. But the firſt popular book on the ſubject was Sandys's
Travels, which reached fix editions in a few years. Sandys poſſeſſed
erudition, fagacity, and a love of truth. Doubtleſs, he availed him-
ſelf of all that had ever been publiſhed in his day, but he borrowed
with judgment, and has diffuſed an air of originality over the whole of
his performance. Grecian inſcriptions and antiquities engaged more
particularly both Wheler and Spon, from whom the cleareſt idea of
the Morea and the iſlands of the Archipelago, in their then exiſting
ſtate, may be collected. Theſe reſearches, confined to that ſingle
object, have been extended with the moſt ſatisfactory elucidations
by Maundrel and Chiſhull, by Pococke and Chandler.
Drs. Smith and Cowell, both chaplains at Conſtantinople, have
publiſhed learned accounts of the Greek church and its controver-
11
fies. We were firſt introduced to an acquaintance with the annals of
the Ottoman empire by Knowles, whoſe hiſtory, ſo highly praiſed by
Dr. Johnſon, has been continued by Rycaut, and farther extended un-
der other points of view by Tindal's tranſlation of Prince Cantemir's
work.
Rycaut, likewiſe, from his long reſidence and connexion with the
embaſſy, was well qualified, as a delineator of Levantine cuſtoms and
policy, and has acquitted himſelf with fidelity, but with dulneſs.
Whilſt, in the lively traces and luxuriant ſcenery of Lady M. W.
Montague, curioſity has reached the height of gratification : we are
forced however unwillingly to pauſe, and to diſcriminate the glow of
the imagination from the fober colours of truth and nature.
Subjects of political and commercial concern, as they were
officially recogniſed by Sir James Porter during his embafly, have
furniſhed matter for obſervations, replete with entertainment and
good fenſe. For diſquiſitions in natural hiſtory, and developement
of national opinions and domeſtic arrangements in the Levant, at a
diſtance from the capital, the republic of letters muſt avow no com-
mon obligation to Dr. Ruffel and his brother, in their hiſtory of
Aleppo. Directed to the ſame ſtudies, and with a ſimilar fate to that
of Hafelquiſt, Forſkäal and Neibuhr, were the eminent talents of the
late Dr. John Sibthorp, who by an indefatigable exertion of them in
this ungenial climate, having twice ſurveyed the Levant, impaired
his health, and at length ſacrificed his life at an early period. I wit-
neſſed his labours.—I ſhared his ſociety during the laſt viſit he made,
and I loſe ſomewhat of the regret of private friendſhip in reflecting
that the “ Flora Græca,” his honourable bequeſt to the univerſity of
Oxford, will add ſo much to botanical ſcience, and the fame he had
ſo juſtly acquired.
12
-
From ſuch a view of what has been done to advance the know-
ledge of remaining antiquities or of ſociety and manners, in the vaſt
cmpire of the Turks, 1 retire with diffidence, yet encouraging a hope
to commend the following pages to the indulgence of the public. Nor
will my preſumption be deemed unqualified if it be conſidered, that
in inveſtigations of this nature accident or a particular ſituation may
ſupply novelties which ability or induſtry, without them, cannot with
certainty command.
The haughty uncommunicative Turk, undervaluing all without
the pale of Iſlamiſm, and the boaſting uncandid Greek, are equally
incapable of liberal intercourſe on ſubjects which would tend to aſ-
certain the true ſtandard of their national character; a plan of ex-
amination practicable amongſt a more poliſhed people, would here
fail of ſucceſs; and it is by urging a pertinacious inquiry during a
certain time of reſidence amongſt them under advantageous circum-
ſtances, that a ſketch may be preſented unblemiſhed by prejudice
and a falſe eſtimate, and unobſcured by a hafty acceptation of dubious
facts.
13
SECTION II.
SUMMARY ACCOUNT OF BYZANTIUM_OF CONSTANTINOPLE SINCE
THE POSSESSION OF THE TURKS-CITY WALLS-GATESSE-
VEN TOWERS-SERAGLIO-SUBLIME PORTE-CHURCH OF ST.
--—-
IRENE, NOW THE ARMOURY-THE TWO COURTS, WITH THEIR
GATES--COLUMN OF THEODOSIUS-KIOSQUES-SULTAN's New
GARDEN-BATHS-LIBRARY
-LIBRARY TREASURES-APARTMENTS OF
STATE-CHAMBER OF AUDIENCE-INHABITANTS-SKETCH OF
FEMALE ECONOMY IN THE SERAGLIO, WITH THE PRESENT
ARRANGEMENT OF THE HAREM.
To deſcribe the ancient ſtate and ſplendour of Conſtantinople after
the elaborate inveſtigations of Petrus Gyllius°, Du Cange', and Ban-
e Petrus Gyllius, as he ſtyles himſelf according to the prevailing faſhion in his time,
of latinizing names, was a French phyſician, and is ſaid to have been commiſſioned by
Francis I. to collect MSS. at Conſtantinople, early in the ſixteenth century. He com-
piled, during his reſidence, two treatiſes on antiquities, one intitled “ Topographia Con-
ftantinopoleos,” and the other “ De Boſphoro," chiefly collected from “ lepinynors
TP EY TW Beowcow avatae," a poem written by Dionyſius of Byzantium, mentioned by Sui-
das. Theſe curious works were firſt publiſhed in 4to, 1561, 1562 ; by Elzevir in 12mo.
1632 ; and afterward incorporated into the “ Theſaurus Antiq. Græc." of Gronovius, and
likewiſe by Bandurus in his “ Imperium Orientale, 1711."
He was either accompanied, or ſoon followed, by another phyſician, his countryman,
Pierre Belon du Mans, who printed his Travels in the Levant, in 8vo. 1550, and in 4to.
1584, which are principally valuable for natural hiſtory. The firſt noticed are much
eſteemed both for erudition and accuracy; and Tournefort, one of the beſt travellers into
the Levant, after Wheler and Spon, has borrowed freely from them, without acknowledg-
ment.
f“ Conſtantinopolis Chriſtiana, ſive Deſcriptio urbis Conſtantinopolitanæ, qualis
extitit fub Imperatoribus Chriſtianis ex variis ſcriptoribus contexta.” Lutetiæ, 1680, fol.
14
durus, taken from the authorities of the Byzantine hiſtorians, or after
that more perfect picture which Gibbon has drawn from the fame
originals, with a reſemblance that every modern traveller muſt own
with admiration, would evince more preſumption than ability.
To thoſe authors I refer the more curious and claſſical reader
without hazarding the cenfure of plagiariſm, or mutilating ſuch do-
cuments by imperfect tranſcription. It is my intention to treat of
the Ottoman capital, and to relate what appeared worthy notice
during a reſidence of eighteen months.
Upon a ſpot, which nature has ſo ſtrongly marked for the ſite
of a metropolis, Byzantium 8 was originally founded, and received its
name from Byzas, a king of the Megarcans. Pauſanias the Spartan,
after the flight of Xerxes, rendered it a conſiderable city; which
ſuffered much from the furious irruptions of the Perſians, and, having
been betrayed, was taken by the Athenians under Alcibiades.
The
emperor Veſpaſian deprived it of freedom, and annexed it to a pro-
vince, which oppofing Severus, after a long ſiege he raſed it to the
ground, and diſperſed the citizens. During this neglected ſtate Con-
ſtantine determined to reſtore the ſite with unequalled magnificence,
and to conſtitute a new capital of the Roman world".
The “ Imperium Orientale of Anfelm Bandurus," Paris 1711, 2 vols. fol. was intended
as ſupplementary to it.
Herodot. l. ii.
Thucyd. 1. i.
Polyb. I. iv. p. 312.
Eutrop. I. vii.
h We may judge of its ancient ſplendour from this catalogue of Onuphurius Pan-
vinius. “ Habet urbs Conſtantinopolis, in regionibus 14, Palatia 5, Ecclefias 14, Domus
Auguftarum 6, Domus Nobiliff. 3, Thermas 8, Baſilicas 2, Fora 4, Senatus 2, Horrea 5,
Theatra 2, Luforia 2, Portus 4, Circum 1, Ciſternas 4, Nymphæa 4, Vicos 322, Do-
mus 4388, Porticus 52, Balneas privatas 153, Piſtrina publica 20, Piftrina privata 120.
15
I paſs by a period of 1116 years from the reſtoration of the city,
till it was conquered by the Turks under Sultan Mohammed II. in
1453 ; a period replete with the eventful hiſtory of a nation, gradu-
ally becoming weak and deſpicable, corrupted by univerſal depravity
of manners, and infatuated by the inveterate controverſies of their
church.
The ſituation of Conſtantinople is well known. The latitude is
411 degrees, but the climate to thoſe of northern nations is certainly
unfavourable. During the ſummer months nothing can exceed the
ſerenity of the ſky and the ſoftneſs of the air ; but, in other parts of
thc
year,
the ſudden tranſitions from heat to cold, as the two ſeas
gain alternate dominion, affect certain conſtitutions very ſeverely.
Of late, in the natural, as well as the political hemiſphere, the influ-
ence of the north ſeems to preponderate.
The ſite forms an unequal triangle reſembling a harp, and the total
circumference may be twelve or fourteen Engliſh miles, including a
ſurface of about 2000 acres, ſurrounded by walls, and defended on two
ſides by the ſea, and the harbour called “ the Golden Horn.” Not leſs
than 400,000 inhabitants are numbered in the whole capital; but in
this eſtimation muſt be included the ſuburbs of Galata, Pera, Tophàna,
and Scutari. Two hundred thouſand are Turks, one hundred thouſand
Columnam purpuream. Columnas inter ſe pervias 2, Coloſſum 1, Tetrapylum aureum
unum Auguftæum. Capitolium, Monetam, Scalas maritimas 3. Habet fane longitudo
urbis a portà aurei uſque ad littus maris directâ lineà pedum 14,075, latitudo autem
60,150.” Gronovii, v. vii. p. 1327.
The name given by the Turks to Conſtantinople is “ Stamboul,” corrupted in their
uſual way from the modern Greek “ ETYTONI;" which latter appellation is ſtill in uſe.
It is likewiſe called “ Iflamboul,” or “the Abode of the Faithful," as inſcribed upon all
their coins,
16
Greeks, and the remainder Jews, Armenians, and Franks, of all the
European nations. Amongſt the former, it is aſſerted that population
is much on the decline; for there are few cities in which can be
found ſo many young men unmarried. The inhabitants are fre-
quently changed, and the ravages of the plague are re-ſupplied by
ſettlers from other parts of the empire. With no people is lon-
gevity more common or extended, nor health more conſtant, than
with the Turks.
Conſtantine a completed the walls of his new city; which gained
a farther boundary under Theodofius II. towards the land. From
carthquakes and the violence of the ſea very frequent demolitions have
happened, which have been repaired by Theodoſius II. Leo III. and
Theophilus; in the reign of the former, fifty-eight towers were
thrown down, which were ſpeedily rebuilt. The great wall from the
ſeven towers to the harbour is four miles long, with a triple for-
tification eighteen feet diſtant from each other, ſtudded with lofty
towers of every ſhape, embattled upon deep brackets, many of which
i According to the register of the Stamboul effendiſly, or mayor of Conſtantinople,
there are now 88,185 houſes, and 130 public baths.
Je n'ay pas vû de nation ſujette a ſi peu de maladies, qui vivent generalement plus
long temps que les Turcs, et qui jouiſſent d'une ſantè plus conſtante. Si la peſte ne les
viſitoit de temps en temps, et n'en emportoit un grand nombre feroit trop peuplèe."
Montraye, T. 1. p. 224.
k The walls of Conſtantinople were extended in 413 during the minority of Theo-
dofius II. by his guardian Antheinius, and the whole completed with incredible diligence
in two months. Theſe were overturned by an earthquake in 39th of Theodoſius, and
rebuilt under the direction of Conſtantine, the prefect of the Eaſt in 447, as mentioned by
Ammianus Marcellinus. The ſea wall and that on the weſtern ſide of the city were re-
paired in the eighth century by the emperours Abſimarus,and Leo III. Zozimus & Zonaras
Anthologia, l. 4. xviii. Gyllii. Top. Confi. 1. 1. cxix.
17
have' inſcriptions of marble or iron particulariſing the builder or
date.
There are five gates, with ſtone bridges over the foſs, which is
twenty-five feet wide, of which, Topkapelli, the Porta Sancti Ro-
mani, though the moſt ruinous, is the moſt remarkable, as that
where the Turks effected their entrance, and the emperor
Conſtan-
tinc Palcologus was ſlain m.
No
part of Gibbon's elegant hiſtory will be read with more ſtrik-
ing effect either at Rome or Conſtantinople than his narrative of the
laſt and moſt calamitous fiege. With its heroic circumſtances im-
preſſed on the mind, as we ſurvey alternately the vaſt ramparts of the
Mahomedans on one ſide and the fallen towers of the imperial city
on the other, we are divided between admiration of ſuch ſtupendous
efforts of barbarous valour, and commiſeration of an empire expiring
at the ſame moment, with its amiable and magnanimous maſter.
The Porta aurea was a triumphal arch built by Thcodoſius, upon
his defeat of Maximus, and beſides the ſtatue of Victory of gilded
bronze placed on it, was profuſely ornamented with beaten gold.
Many of theſe inſcriptions are preſerved in Wheler's Travels, but not with ſufficient
accuracy. Some are on marble tablets, and others of letters formed with pieces of marble
or iron; the latter are decayed by ruſt, and ſcarcely to be made out. Greek and Latin in-
ſcriptions diſcovered in different parts of the city are collected in Georgii Doufæ de itinere
ſuo Conſtantinopolno. Gronov. Theſaur. v. vi. 3342. Thoſe on the walls are beſt ſeen
in Bandurus, v. 1. 617, corrected from the Anthologia.
m Gibbon, R. H. v. vii. 8vo.
On the golden gate,
HAEC LOCA THEODOSIVS DECORAT POST FATA TYRANNI
AVREA SAECLA GERIT QVI PORTAM CONSTRVIT AVRO,'
D
18
When Mahomed II. in 1458, made the fortreſs and priſon of the
Seven towers, he cauſed it to be walled
up. Several gates have in-
ſcriptions"; none are legible excepting that on one ſide of the
Mevlanah-yeni-kapy. Around the golden gate are columns of
granite, and fragments of marble, ſtill retaining much elegance of
workmanſhip.
A great road runs in a parallel direction with the wall, and affords
a ſtriking view, almoſt for the whole extent, of this vaſt ſtructure,
which is diverſified by pictureſque ruin, and trees growing in the foſs,
of
great beauty and variety.
The reticulated brick-work obſervable in the walls of Rome was
a mode of building in uſe, during the conſular times, when thoſe of
Byzantium were compoſed of granite, fo compact and ſolid as to
appear to be all of one piece. Thoſe of Conftantinople, erected by
the emperors, conſiſt of alternate courſes of the large flat brick, and
ſtone, of twice their depth, and the internal arcades and rooms in
the towers, are all of the former material, and moſt curious con-
ſtruction.
Beſide the natural conſequences of time, and the force of earth-
quakes, theſe works have ſuſtained no leſs than ſevenº memorable
ſieges ſince their preſent form; and it is ſurpriſing that they now
n Inſcription on a ſtone, apparently diſplaced, on one ſide the Yenicapi,
THEODOSI IUSSIS GEMINO NEC MENSE PERACTO
CONSTANTINVS OVANS HÆC MOENIA FIRMA LOCAVIT
TAM CITO TAM STABILEM PALLAS VIX CONDERET ARCEM.
See Du Cange. Conftant. Chriſtiana, p. 19.
• Gibbon, R. H. v. vi. p. 53. 8vo.
1
2
::
.
ş
9
::
1.
SEVEN TOWERS,
from a Turkish Cemetery.
P.
:
:
19
appear ſo perfect. At the ſouthern termination, near the ſea, ſtands
a caſtle called by the Turks Yeddikuli, the Seven towers, firſt founded
by the Greek emperors, who gave it a name of the ſame import. In
1458, Mahommed II. rebuilt a great part with the addition of three to
four ancient towers, and appropriated it as a place of ſafety for his trea-
ſures, and as a ſtate priſon. The laſt perſon of rank confined there
was the Ruſſian 'envoy, at the commencement of the war in 1784.
Three of the Seven-towers were thrown down by the terrible earth-
quake in 1768, and have not been reſtored.
The name of the Seven towers originated in an echo, which was
communicated to ſeven towers of the ancient wall. The fortreſs
was probably built, by John Zimitzes in 1000, and continued by
Baſil II. and Conſtantine VIII. in 1030, though there is much
uncertainty reſpecting its firſt conſtruction. Towers were added by
Manuel Comnenus in 1182.
11
No compariſon, excepting for extent, could at any time have
been made between the gates and walls of the two imperial cities.
The external appearance of this fortreſs is exceedingly ugly; for
the towers, which are vaſt octagons, are finiſhed by conical roofs,
which degrade them to the reſemblance of windmills.
Two objects in Conſtantinople have long engaged the curioſity of
European nations, the feraglio P, and the church of Santa Sophia,
much the more, perhaps, becauſe Chriſtians ſee them with difficulty.
In many accounts I have read, ſo much fiction is embroidered
upon
1
P Seraglio is a word compoſed by the Franks from Serai, a palace. It is a curious
fact, that the Academy De la Cruſca, in their dictionary, have derived it from the verb
ferrare, to lock up.
20
truth, that little ſatisfaction is found, and all muſt be taken from the
communication of thoſe who gain admittance into the interior parts,
and who are worthy of credit.
Пң
In the
ages of the Greek empire the extreme point of the pro-
montory, which is ſaid to have been the entire ſite of Byzantium,
was appropriated principally to the prieſts of the church of Santa
Sophia ; but when Mahommed II. in a great meaſure“ re-modelled
the city, he judiciouſly choſe this ſpot for his imperial palace.
In 1478, he finiſhed an incloſure with lofty walls of four miles
circuit, with eight gates and two large courts, beyond which, for
ſtrangers no circumſtance can obtain admittance. Succeſſive ſultans
have made great additions, ſo that the whole ſpace is now irregularly
covered with detached ſuites of apartments, baths, moſques, kioſques,
gardens, and
groves of cypreſs. Such a combination of nature and
art, ſo many glittering domes with an elevation ſingularly fine, can-
not but fill the eye of a ſtranger with admiration and pleaſure, which,
if conſidered ſeparately, could produce neither. Yet, with all theſe
advantages, and all its hiſtorical conſequence, the lover of the
human race will regard it with horror or regret as that ſpot of the :
whole world, upon which ſcenes of cruelty and rapine have been
acted with greater frequency, and in a far greater proportion of
enormity, than on any other we know. I ſpeak of it as a palace
only, not as containing the ſpace of a city within its walls.
We enter through the Baba-hoomajùn, or Sublime Porte, which
is not the leaſt extravagant appellation beſtowed upon it. There
is an irregular, but ſpacious area, once the Forum Auguſti; on the
left, is the ſouth front of Santa Sophia, and in the centre aʼrichlý
ornamented fountain built by Ahmet III. and decorated with verſes
16
1
12
pin
DIT
:
::
THE SERAGLIO POINT,
from the Britiſh Palace at Pera.
7. Due
1
..
:
1
21
of his own compoſition. The Sublime Porte 9 can boaſt no archi-
tectural beauty, for it is a heavy maſs, like a baſtion, erected by
Mahommed II. in 1478. Within is the firſt ſquare, which contains
the Taraphàna, or mint, and the viſier's divan. Behind is the
church of St. Irene, reported to have been built by Conſtantine, in
which the ſecond general council of Thcodofius was held. It reſem-
bles S. Sophia on a ſmall ſcale, and is embelliſhed with marble and
moſaic. This ſtructure the Turks have converted into their grand
armoury, and it is certainly a repoſitory of many curioſities. I de-
ferred viſiting it till my departure from Conſtantinople was arranged,
when for ſeveral months the plague was ſo univerſal, that I dared not
approach it. But I learn from a perſon of credit, that it contains the
Roman military engines uſed by Alexius at the fiege of Nicoea, in
1097; the armour and weapons of the croiſaders, who poſſeſſed
Conſtantinople under Godfrey of Bouillon, and innumerable trophies
of Ottoman victories. Much light might probably be thrown on that
branch of the ſtudy of antiquities from a free inſpection of them.
+
The oppoſite gate is called Baba Selàm, and that farther on be-
yond the ſecond court, Baba Saadì, the gates of health, and of hap-
pineſs. There is a column compoſed of a tall ſhaft and Corinthian
capital, with an inſcription on the baſe, which has ſuffered only the
loſs of the ſtatue". The ſplendid confuſion, in which the detached
9 In this gate are expoſed, for three days, the heads of ſtate delinquents, which are
placed on a ſalver, with a paper deſcribing the cauſe of their death. When Ali Paſha, the
vifier of Sultan Machmood, was executed in 1755, the following inſcription was placed
near his head.
" Certain is the puniſhinent of thoſe wlio diſobey the commands of their maſter,
the Lord of the univerſe, and who deſiſt not from extorting money, and procuring
favours,
THEODOSIO MAGNO OB. GOTHOS DEVICTOS.
It was erected in honour of Theodofius, and bore his ſtatue, in 322, when the chief of
22
buildings are ſcattered, would ſcarcely admit of a minute detail, were
it practicable to examine them. Baths of marble and.porcelain, rich
kioſques, the imperial manège and gardens, cover the remaining
ſpace within the walls. Nearer the ſhore are kioſques, frequented by
the ladies, with flower gardens in the Turkiſh ſtyle, and terraces upon
high walls, painted green. In theſe that ſumptuous exhibition, called
the tulip feaſt, is held. The great kioſque, which the ſultan viſits on
ſtate days, is ſupported by pillars of verd antique, and wainſcotted
with veneered marbles. Each of theſe commands a fine view of the
harbour.
The ſultan lately determined to appropriate ground for a gar-
den in the European taſte, and having obſerved one at Buyuckdereh
on the Boſporus, belonging to a reſpectable merchant, he applied to
him to ſuggeſt a plan for his new deſign. As this gentleman is a
German, he propoſed the ſtyle of his own country, and that ſeveral
acres, cleared of venerable cypreſſes, ſhould be laid out in a croſs walk
of trellis, and young trees to be trained over it, with ſtages for flower
pots and fountains at equal diſtances. For this purpoſe the exquiſite
marbles of the palace of Morad IVs. near Scutari, were torn from
the walls and rehewn, and the admiration of ages ſacrificed to falſe
taſte. A lover of modern gardening, as introduced into England by
the Goths came to Conſtantinople to ſue for peace, and they were permitted to eſtabliſh
themſelves in Myſia and Thrace.
s A beautiful eminence over the ſea between Scutari and Chalcedone was ſelected by
the empreſs Theodora, the wife of Juſtinian, for a moſt fumptuous palace, called the He-
ræum, and noticed by Gibbon, vol. vii. p. 124, which continued to be a favourite ſummer
reſidence of her fucceflors.
In the laſt century, Morad IV. erected another on the ſame ſpot, in a high ſtyle of
Aſiatic embelliſhment. I ſaw it in 1794, when modern Goths were demoliſhing it by
order of Selim III.
23
Kent and Brown, muft lament that a more correct idea of the effect,
which a happy combination of nature and art is capable of produc-
ing, was not communicated to a prince ſo deſirous of improving the
genius of his people.
The library of the ſeraglio has long been a myſtery to learned
Europe, increaſed by the inaccurate relations of thoſe who far dif-
tant from the place have compiled accounts of it. The Abbè Sevin,
who in 1728 was ſent by the French king to collect Greek MSS.
was idly aſſured that every one of that deſcription had been burned
by order of Morad III. in the ſixteenth century. It is morally im-
poſſible for
any Chriſtian to viſit this library, as it is ſituate in the in-
terior of the ſeraglio. One hundred and twenty of Conſtantine's
MSS. in folio, chiefly the New Teſtament and commentaries upon
it, moſt elaborately written, are preſerved by the Turks with due
veneration. By comparing the accounts of different relators it is
evident that many MSS. both Greek and Latin, as well as Oriental,
are kept in confuſed heaps, without arrangement or catalogue.
When Pope Nicholas V. in 1453 ſent literati to Conſtantinople and
Greece to collect MSS. of the Greek fathers, and offered a reward of
five thouſand ſequins for the original goſpel of St. Matthew in He-
brew, they conjectured and ventured to aſſert, that it might be found
in this library. Others have followed their example with reſpect to
the loft decads of Livy", with a total deficiency of proof. The books
1
* Abbate Toderini procured a copy of the catalogue of the feraglio library, which
was taken in forty days by a page of the court with the utmoſt ſecreſy. He gives it, with
a tranſlation, in his treatiſe “ Sulla Letteratura Turcheſca.” T. 2. p. 53. De la Valle,
who viſited Conſtantinople two centuries ago, remarks that the Decads of Livy were
then ſaid to be in this library. The Grand Duke of Florence offered 5000 piaſtres for
the MS. and the Bailo of Venice doubled the offer, but it could not be found. Viaggi,
p. 267, 4to.
1
u
Livy's hiſtory was written in 140 books, and, according to the opinion of Petrarch,
24
of Diodorus Siculus complete, are ſaid by Conſtantine Lafcaris, in
his treatiſe on the Greek and Sicilian hiſtorians, to have been ſeen in
the library of the Greek emperors at Conſtantinople.
A Turk will not believe the treaſures of the ſeraglio to be of a
value within the limits of computation; they are certainly very great,
.ariſing from the gradual accumulation during each reign, diſtinct
from thoſe found at the taking of Conſtantinople by Mohammed II.
The preſents made by the ambaſſadors from different ſovereigns, if
compoſed of maſſive gold or ſilver, are now ſent to the mint, and
others are given by the ſultan to his relatives and favourites.
The apartments of ſtate reſemble each other very nearly. The
chief furniture conſiſts of the ſofa ſpread round the room, the carpets
and the mirrors. In thoſe more peculiarly adapted for the ſummer
are marble fountains which diſpenſe freſhneſs; and the tinkling of
water is a high gratification to Turkiſh ears.
What diſtinguiſhes this imperial reſidence is the richneſs, not the
variety of materials, of which the furniture is compoſed. Silk and
cloth of gold are ſubſtituted for cotton and woollen ſtuffs ; fringes
are ſtrung with pearl and inferior jewels"; and the walls are wain-
not originally divided into decads. Of theſe thirty-five only have reached us. The ſecond
decad, from the tenth to the twenty-firſt book, is loſt, which compriſed the hiſtory of ſeventy
years from A. U. C. 461 to 531. From the forty-fifth book, nine decads and a half, or
ninty-five books, are deſtroyed. The whole was contained in fourteen decads.
* Diodorus Siculus deſcribes various antiquities of the Ægyptians, Affyrians, and
Greeks, in fixteen books, of which thoſe between the fifth and the eleventh are defi-
cient.
у
Turkey cuſhions boſſed with pearl.” Taming of the Shrew, Act. ii.
1
2
25
ſcotted with jaſper, mother of pearl, and veneered ivory. By the
ſight of ſuch gorgeous ornament ſurpriſe rather than admiration is
excited. The Turks amaſs, but they know not how to arrange, and
that judicious diſpoſition of objects, to the perfection of which the
praiſe of real taſte is given, and which is ſo ambitiouſly attempted in
the palaces of Chriſtendom, they have not ſuppoſed to exiſt, or are
much too prejudiced to apply. A mere “Houſe of precious things,"
richly ſuited but unſuitable, without elegance or propriety, is all that
the mind of a Turk is equal either to eſtimate or enjoy.
We muſt yet remember, that the arts, ancient or modern,
of which European palaces are the magnificent repoſitories, and to
the ſelection and diſpoſition of which they owe ſo much of their
celebrity, are rigidly forbidden by the firſt principles of the Moham-
medan law, which rejects the admiſſion of painting and ſculp-
ture, as a groſs profanation of the Deity, and the objects of his
creation.
In the audience chamber, where the ambaſſadors are received by
the fultan in perſon, is a throne as reſplendent as the mines of the
eaſt can make it, with a canopy of velvet fringed with jewels, under
which he ſits in ſtate for a few minutes to hear the compliments of
the ſovereign, who ſolicits his friendſhip. On one ſide the throne is
a niche in which upon blocks are placed the turbans he does not
wear, which have plumes formed of ſome of the moſt valuable dia-
monds that are known. According to former etiquette it was
thought neceſſary that the Sultan ſhould receive foreign miniſters
with contempt and rudeneſs; but the preſent monarch conſiders
condeſcenſion and politeneſs much more ſuitable to his own dignity
and his relative ſituation with the other powers of Europe.
Scarcely an author on the Levant, from the earlieſt accounts, has
E
26
ömitted to deſcribe the ceremonies of the audience of the ſultan or
viſier. As certain forms were eſtabliſhed, from which no deviation
has been made, each detail nearly reſembles the other. Le Compte
Feriol, the French ambaſſador, at the beginning of this century, (well
known for a curious work relative to the dreſſes of the Levantines, en-
titled “ Recueil de Cent Eſtampes”) diſtinguiſhed himſelf by percmp-
torily inſiſting on the privilege of wearing his ſword in the ſultan's
preſence. This demand was arrogantly refuſed, the ceremony was
broken up in diſorder, and the haughty Louis XIV. ſubmitted to the
indignity. Rycaut mentions, that Lord Winchelſea, our ambaſſador,
was forced by the attendant officers to bow till he touched the car-
pet with his forehead, and Sir J. Porter relates circumſtances of the
ſame humiliating and ridiculous nature.
The Venetian bailo was obliged to appear at the ſultan's divan
with a beard, as the deputy who brings the tribute once in three
years, from the little republic of Raguſa, is ſtill required to do. When
Ahmet III. had gained the Morea and Cyprus from them, the firſt
bailo came to the audience in his own habit, and excuſed his neglect of
the old etiquette, by ſaying that “ the ſultan had ſhaven the Vene-
tians fo cloſely that they had no longer a beard to wear.
In the progreſs of refinement, it may be hoped that he will no
longer peep through a lattice at the viſier’s divan ; a cuſtom originat-
ing in a wholeſome reſtraint of exorbitant and abuſed power, but at
preſent ſerving only the purpoſe of unkingly curioſity.
The inhabitants of the feraglio exceed fix thouſand, of which
about five hundred are women. Many who are employed there
during the day, have their houſes and families in the city.
When the ſultan comes to the throne the grandees preſent him
with virgin ſlaves, who, they hope, may become their patroneſſes.
27
From theſe principally, ſix are then choſen, who are ſtyled Kadinns,
but the late Sultan Abdul-hamid added a ſeventh. The firſt of them
who gives an heir to the empire becomes the favourite, and has the
title of Haſſeky-Sultàn. There are many others in the harem,
but they ſeldom are ſuffered to infringe the excluſive privilege of
producing heirs to the empire, which the kadinns claim ; for with
the others the moſt infamous means of prevention are forcibly adopt-
ed. If the child of the firſt haſleky-ſultàn Mould die, her precedence
is loſt. The old ſtory of the ladies ſtanding in a row, and the ſul-
tan's throwing his handkerchief to his choice, is not true.
ference is always officially communicated by the kiſlàr-agha.
His pre-
So dependent is opinion upon education and the early habits of
life, that the ſtate of female ſociety in the ſeraglio, is to themſelves
that of the moſt perfect happineſs. It was ordained by Mahommed
that women ſhould not be treated as intellectual beings, leſt they
ſhould aſpire to equality with men. This ſyſtem he found already
prevalent in the eaſt, and received by his converts, and therefore can
not be charged with having curtailed their liberty and ſocial inter-
courſe. Throughout Turkey, in every rank of life, the women are
literally children of a larger growth, as trifling in their amuſements,
as unbounded in their deſires, and as abſolutely at the diſpoſal of
others, being conſidered by the men merely as created for the pur-
poſes of nature, or ſexual luxury. None of our miſtakes concerning
the opinions of the Turks, is more unjuſt than that which reſpects
the notion attributed to them, that women have no fouls ; on the
other hand, they are promiſed in the Koràn to be reſtored with all.
the charms of eternal youth and unblemiſhed virginity, and what, in
many inſtances, may heighten the idea of perfect paradiſe to them-
ſelves, not again to be united with their former earthly huſbands,
but to be allotted to other true muſulmans by the benevolence of the
prophet.
28
The females of the ſeraglio are chiefly Georgian and Circaſſian
Naves, ſelected from all that are either privately bought, or expoſed to
ſale in the Avrèt bazar“, and, for many reaſons, are admitted at an
We may readily conclude that an afſemblage of native
beauty ſo exquiſite, does not exiſt in any other place.
early age.
The cducation of theſe girls is very fcrupulouſly attended to ;
a The Avrèt Bazar (woman markct) conſiſts of an incloſed court, with a cloiſter and ſmall
apartments ſurrounding it. It is ſupplied by female ſlaves brought from Ægypt, Abyſſinia,
Georgia, and Circaſſia, who are expoſed to public ſale every Friday morning. Thoſe from the
firſt mentioned countries are generally purchaſed for domeſtic ſervices, which, in a menial
capacity, no Turkiſh woman will condeſcend to perform; their perſons or countenances are
rarely beautiful, and their price ſeldom exceeds forty pounds Engliſh. The exquiſite
beauty of the others is enhanced by every art of dreſs and oriental accompliſhments, and
they are uſually ſold for ſeveral thoufand piaſtres. Many are reſerved for the ſeraglio,
where though they are conſidered as moſt fortunate, they are moſt frequently ſacrificed.
Intrigues are concealed by the application of poiſonous drugs which often occaſion deathi,
and upon detection of pregnancy they are inſtantly drowned. One ſhudders to relate
how many of theſe victims are taken out into the ſea at the dead of the night, and com-
mitted to the deep. Formerly, the Avrèt Bazar was open to Franks, who were ſuppoſed
to purchaſe flaves in order to redeem them, but they are now excluded, by order of the
preſent ſultan's father.
The beauty of the Circaſſian girls is preferved by the invention of inoculation, which
belongs to them, and not to the Turks, a circumſtance miſrepreſented by Voltaire and
Tiffôt. At preſent it is more commonly practiſed in Aſiatic Turkey, than at Conſtan-
tinople. Muſtafa III. was prevented from having the reigning ſultan inoculated by the
fears of his mother. The operation is uſually performed by old women, who affect a
great myſtery, though the treatment differs little from our own. They make the punc-
ture with three needles tied together, and the Greeks vary only by making it in the form
of a croſs.
Under the patronage of Lady M. W. Montague, Mr. Maitland, a ſurgeon, who had
learned the method in Turkey, firſt practiſed it in London. In 1721 the college of phy-
ſicians requeſted five condemned perſons of the king, for the experiment. Upon four the
eruption appeared on the ſeventh day; the fifth was a woman on whom it never appeared,
but the confeſſed that ſhe had had it when an infant. There is a treatiſe by a phyſician of
Pera, entitled “ Diſſertatio hiſtorica, Drs. Temone de inoculatione pro variolis.”
29
they are taught to dance with more luxuriance than grace, to ſing
and to play on the tambourin, a ſpecies of guitar; and ſome of them
excel in embroidery. This arrangement is conducted ſolely by the
elder women, though from the taſte for European faſhions, which
Sultan Selim openly avows, ſome Greek women have been lately in-
troduced to teach them the harp and piano-forte, which they had
learned for that purpoſe. Amongſt the five hundred already men-
tioned the kiſlar-agha preciſely ſettles all precedence. Some are dif-
qualified by age from the notice of the ſultan, and of thoſe who are
conſidered as wives there are four; he is reſtricted to ſeven, but as to
concubines there is no legal limitation, and their number depends on
the inclination of their ſublime maſter. The ſuperiors ſpend their
time in a ſeries of ſedentary amuſements. Dreſs, the moſt fump-
tuous that can be imagined, changed frequently in the courſe of the
day, the moſt magnificent apartments and furniture; viſits of cere-
mony with each other, and the inceſſant homage of their ſubordinato
companions, fill their minds with a ſort of ſupine happineſs, which
indeed is all that moſt Turkiſh women aſpire to, or are qualified to
experience.
Sometimes, as an indulgence, they are permitted to go to the
kioſques near the ſea, of which circumſtance the officers of police
are informed, that no veſſel ſhould approach too near the ſeraglio
point. Every ſummer the ſultan viſits his palaces in rotation for a
ſhort time with his harèm, when every paſs and avenue, within
three or five miles diſtance, is guarded by fierce boſtandjìs , left the
approach of any male being ſhould contaminate them.
They depend entirely upon their female ſlaves for amuſements,
which have any thing like gaiety for their object, and recline on their
fofas for hours, whilſt dancing, comedy, and buffoonery, as indelicate
• The ſultan's body guards.
30
as our vulgar puppet ſhow, are exhibited before them. Greek and
Frank ladies occaſionally viſit them, whoſe huſbands are connected
with the Porte as merchants or interpreters, under pretence of
Newing them curioſities from Europe. From ſuch opportunities all
the accurate information concerning the interior of the palace muſt
be collected, and to ſuch I am, at preſent, indebted.'
The articles of female habiliment arc infinite, both as to coſt and
number; but change of faſhion is adopted only for the head attire, which
happens with ſcarcely leſs frequency than in the courts of Europe.
They are imitated by the Greek ladies, whoſe dreſs differs little from
theirs; but the original Greek dreſs, rather than of the Turkiſh harèm,
is that deſcribed by Lady M. Wortley Montague. Both the ſtyle of
beauty, and the idea of improving its effect by ornament amongſt the
Ottoman women, have much fingularity. Of the few I have ſeen
with an open veil, or without one, the faces were remarkable for
ſymmetry and brilliant complexion, with the noſe ſtraight and ſmall,
thc eyes vivacious, either black or dark blue, having the eye-brows partly
from nature, and as much from art, very full and joining over the
noſe. They have a cuſtom too of drawing a black line with a
mixture of powder of antimony and oil, called Surmih, above and
under the cye-laſhes, in order to give the eye more fire. Of the
ſhape and air little can be ſaid from our idea of lovelineſs. All the
Levantine women, from their mode of ſitting on their ſofas, ſtoop
cxtremely, and walk very awkwardly. Warm baths uſed without
moderation, and unrelieved idleneſs, ſpoil in moſt inſtances, by a
complete relaxation of the folids, forms that nature intended fould
rival the elegance of their countenances.
The nails both of the
fingers and feet are always ſtained of a roſe colour ". Such is the
taſte of Aſiatics. The diſcriminative trait of beauty between the
Circaſſian and Greek women, is the more majeſtic air and ſtature of
• * Ροδοδακτυλος Ηως.”
:
*
0
TURKISH LADY.
..
4
1
{
}
1
1
t
;
{
31
the former, while the latter excel upon a ſmaller ſcale, no leſs in
brilliancy of complexion, than in ſymmetry and delicacy of form,
The ſtatues of Juno, Minerva, or the Amazons, are contrafted by that
of the Medicean Venus. Both very generally anſwer to Homer's
deſcription of “ the full eyed,” and “ the deep boſomed"."
grave colour
In the ſtreets of Conſtantinople no female appears without her
feredjè and mahramah; the former reſembles a looſe riding coat with
a large ſquare cape, covered with quilted filk, and hanging down low
behind, made univerſally amongſt the Turks of green cloth, and
amongſt the Greeks and Armenians of brown, or ſome
.
The mahramah is formed by two pieces of muſlin, one of which is
tied under the chin, enveloping the head, and the other acroſs the
mouth and half the noſe, admitting ſpace enough for ſight. Yellow
boots are drawn over the feet; and thus cquipped a woman may
meet the public eye without ſcandal. This dreſs is of very ancient
invention, calculated for concealment of the perſon, nor can there be
a more complete diſguiſe.
.
1
In
every civilized country the middle ranks in ſociety enjoy the
trueſt comfort. Whilſt the ladies in the harèms of great or opulent
Turks, are conſoling themſelves with faſtidious indulgence, in luxury
unknown to the vulgar, the wives and concubines of fober citizens
are allowed almoſt a free intercourſe with each other. The men,
merchants or mechanics, are engaged in their various occupations,
leaving the whole day at the diſpoſal of the women, who walk the
ſtreets and bazars in groupes of muffled figures, or go to the ce-
meteries, where, upon ſtated days, under pretence of ſaying prayers at
the graves of deceaſed friends, they enjoy the ſhade of cypreſſes,
whilft loitering away many hours; and ſhow unreſtrained happineſs,
by the moſt vehement loquacity. Several times a year they are
d Baris A979. Baquzs7.10;.
32
drawn in arabahs, or painted waggons with a covering of red cloth,
by buffaloes gaudily harneſſed, to fome favourite retrcat in the
country, but never attended by the men of their family.
That love of ſplendid dreſs which diſtinguiſhes the nations of
the eaſt, pervades every rank of females. Thoſe connected with the
mcaneſt labourer occaſionally wear brocade, rich furs, and embroidery
of gold or ſilver, which are willingly ſupplied by his daily toil. In
large harèms the number of children is proportionably ſmall, where
few women produce more than three. Much has been ſaid con-
cerning the infidelity of the Turkiſh women belonging to harèms of
quality; whocver has pafled a few years in this country, muſt know
that
any ſcheme of gallantry would be utterly impracticable, however
they may have been prompted, by perſonal vanity, to impoſe a falſe
opinion on the world. In complete eſtabliſhments they are guarded
by thoſe unfortunate men
" Who youth ne'er loved, and beauty ne'er enjoyed ;"
and in thoſe of leſs expence, by old women, whoſe ceaſeleſs vigilance
is equally ſecure.
If ſuch things ever happen, it may be ſuppoſed of thofe who
are permitted to gad abroad; but this privilege is conditional, and
never without a certain number of relatives or neighbours.
During my reſidence at Pera, I heard of but one circumſtance
only. A young Venetian ſerved in the ſhop of an apothecary at Con-
ftantinople, whom a Turkiſh lady, attended only by her ſlave, came to
conſult, and was ſhewn into another room, leaving the apprentice
and the fair Circaſſian alone. It is ſaid, that nothing then paſſed
between them. In a few days returning with her miſtreſs, and the
ſame opportunity recurring, ſhe opened her heart, propoſed elope-
+
1
33
ment, and promiſed much treaſure. She kept her word, and they
diſappeared without ſubſequent detection. Upon diſcovery the
puniſhment of theſe lovers would have been horrible ; he would have
been impaled alive, and ſhe drowned in a fack. Such a penal code
as that of the Turks, has in no period of corruption been adopted by
any nation of Chriſtians.
Infidelity or licentiouſneſs in women, is a ſubject of the ſevereſt
crimination amongſt the Turks, and their puniſhment of it borders
upon groſs barbarity. That branch of police is under the juriſdiction
of the boftandji baſhi, or captain of the guard, with many inferior
officers. When any of theſe miſerable girls are apprehended, for the
firſt time they are put to hard labour, and ſtrictly confined; but for
the ſecond they are re-committed, and many at a time tied up in
ſacks, and taken in a boat to the Seraglio-point, where they are
thrown into the tide. The Turks excuſe this cruelty by pleading the
law, and adding that every woman has it in her power to be attached
to one man, by kebinn, or contract for a certain term before the
kady, which ceremony would cxempt them from the cognizance of
the police.
The real ſtate of female ſlaves in Turkey has been much miſrepre-
ſented. I do not allude to it previouſly to their eſtabliſhment in
fome harèm, when expoſed to ſale with practices of their owners
equally repugnant to humanity and decency: but when they become
private property, they are well clothed, and treated with kindneſs by
their miſtreſſes. If the huſband preſents his wife with a female
ſlave, ſhe becomes her ſole property, and he cannot cohabit with her
without legal complaint of the wife, excepting with her conſent,
which prudence generally inclines her to give. No woman of Turk-
iſh birth can be an odalik, or domeſtic ſlave. Illegitimacy is un-
known, for every child, born of the wife or concubine, has nearly
F
34
equal rights. The ſuperior privilege of the wife conſiſts only in the
partition of the huſband's property on his deceaſc, and the difficulty
of procuring a divorce without her acquieſcence. Odaliks are dif-
miſſed and reſold at pleaſure, if they have borne no child. But it
frequently happens that they become confidential with their miſ-
treffes, are emancipated, and married to huſbands whom they provide
for them°. Few young men have more than one wife, but the elder,
if opulent, indulge themſelves to the extent of the prophet's licence.
My fair countrywomen, from fo flight a lketch of female economy
in this eccentric nation, may form favourable concluſions reſpecting
that of our own. They may reſt aſſured, that in no other country are
the moral duties and rational liberty fo juſtly appreciated, or ſo
generally rewarded with happineſs.
- For the Mohammedan doctrine concerning women, fee Koran, ch. xii. xl. xlviii.
Number of wives, chap. iv. Divorces, ch. ii. xxxiii. lxv. miſrepreſented by D'Arvieux,
T, i. p. 451. Grelot. p. 247. Rycaut. ch. xxi. p. 277, &c.
35
SECTION III.
OF THE POLITICAL SYSTEM IN THE SERAGLIO AND THE OFFICE
OF VISIER-REVENUES OF THE SULTAN, AND TAXES INSTI-
TUTED BY HIM-FINANCES OF THE EMPIRE-ANECDOTES OF
THE SULTAN_OF THE
HEIRS APPARENT-OF
MEHMET ME-
LEK, LATE VISIER-OF THE PERSONS WHO COMPOSE THE PRE-
SENT RULING CABINET OF THE CAPOUDAN PASILA AND TIME
MARINE-OF CHELIBY EFFENDILOF GHAZI HASSAN, HIS IN-
FLUENCE WITH
SULTAN ABDULHAMID IN
TIE INSTANCES
OF MAVROYENI AND PETRAKI, TWO CANDIDATES FOR THE
THRONE OF WALLACHIA-KISLAR AGHA-RECEPTION AND
AUDIENCES OF THE STATE OFFICERS-PUBLIC PROCESSIONS
AND CEREMONIES OF THE SULTAN.
The ſeraglio is a microcoſm, in which the language, ceremonies,
and faſhions, are peculiar to itſelf, and differ materially from thoſe of
the capital, or the empire at large. The courtiers of either ſex affect
the moſt ornamented diction of the caſt, and intermix
many
Perſian
phraſes with the Turkiſh, and the young men called Itik Oglan, are
educated in habits of urbanity and politeneſs which might vie with
thoſe of the more civilized nations. So fecluded as they are from in-
tercourſe with their countrymen, and brought up together from their
infancy upon the ſame plan, and with the fame purſuits, one univer-
ſal caſt of character and manners diſtinguiſhes the whole. They
cmerge only to take poſſeſſion of diſtant provinces, or offices of ftatc,
36
in which capacities they uſually exerciſe all the parade to which
they have been ſo long accuſtomcd.
As the ſphere of Turkiſh politics, the ſeraglio becomes more in-
tereſting. Volumes might be filled with the hiſtory of former times,
and anecdotes of thoſe who have enjoyed their career of power, and
ſpread benefit or rapine over the Ottoman world. The ſultans ap-
pear to have ceded their executive function to the viſiers, literally
the bearers of their burden, and to have contented themſelves with
exorbitant luxury or the occaſional triumphs of war. Upon an
average, none of theſe miniſters have retained their influence more
than three years, and many have loſt it by a violent death. Except-
ing the Cuprughlu familya, whoſe ſucceſſion in the office is unexam-
pled in Turkiſh annals, few men of ability have been preferred. Ac-
cident or caprice have uſually dictated the imperial choice, without
the ſlighteſt attention to qualification or merit. Bayazid II. in 1482
made his barber his viſier; and Altabahn, the viſier of Muſtafa II.
who was ſtrangled in 1703, was ſo illiterate that he was forced
to make his ſignature with the palm of his hand, according to
the practice of his ancient predeceſſors, who could neither read nor
write.
The Ottoman adminiſtration is fundamentally theocratic, for the
fultan is obeyed as kalife, and inveſted with the vicarial power of the
prophet. It reſtrains the injuſtice or cxceſſes of the monarch, who
years, and
a Mehmed Cuprughlu, paſha of Damaſcus, was called to the viſirate in 1656, by
Mohammed IV. at the advanced age of ſeventy-eight years. He lived five
go-
verned with uncommon ability. Ahmet Cuprughlu, his eldest ſon, fucceeded hiin in
1661, and died after having retained the office ſeventeen years, the longeſt period upon
record. Muſtafa Cuprughlu, his ſecond ſon, was likewiſe appointed, and was killed at the
battle of Salankemèn by the Germans. In 1697, Haſſan Cuprughlu, of the ſame family,
was made viſier, and ſuperſeded in 1704.
37
is three times formally admoniſhed by the muftis in the name of the
people. Should he contemn the remonftrance, he is dethroned, im-
priſoned, and even deprived of life. We have the examples of Muf-
tafa I. Ibrahim and Mohammed IV. in the laſt century, and
of Oſman II. in the preſent. The policy of the ſovereign in his con-
duct towards individuals has adopted a deſpotiſm not inherent in the
original conſtitution. Fraudulent and myſterious tranſactions have
tended to advance the abſolute authority of the monarch, which op-
preſſes the ſubject, but fills the treaſury.
The ſituation of miniſters is extremely critical. A ſhadow of
ſuſpicion in the breaſt of an arbitrary prince may precipitate them
from the ſummit of power to death, or the ſevereſt adverſity. The
fear therefore of ſuch a viciſſitude continually haraſſes their minds,
and excludes every avenue to noble purpoſes or patriotic plans, for all
their talents are employed in amaſſing treaſures, in creating perſonal
influence, in conciliating friends, or foſtering ſecret rebellion. No
officer of ſtate has either ſalary or penſion; and his remuneration
muſt neceſſarily proceed from the opportunities of emolument his
ſituation affords him. Of the few who are recorded, as having ex-
erciſed authority with mildneſs or juſtice, the praiſe is ſimply
The ancient kalifes eſtabliſhed themſelves ſucceſſively at Medina, at Kufi on the
Euphrates, and at Bagdad. The Ottoman ſultan has ſucceeded to their power in the
hierarchy, and regards the mufti only as his ſecretary for ecclefiaftical affairs, and the
chief expounder of the Koràn, nor on other occaſions has he a feat at the divån.
When conſulted upon an intricate point, the caſe is drawn up under fuppofititious
names, and his fetvah or deciſion is inimitably conciſe.
Queſtion. “ Can a daughter-in-law marry her father-in-law ?”
Fetsub. 6. He cannot-God knows beſt.”
Signed
The poor Emir Mehmed Atallà).
Within theſe few years, the Kadileſkars of Anadouli and Romnily have ſuperſeded this
authority in their own diſtricts.
38
comparative; they have been only leſs iniquitous and oppreſſive than
others.
Whilſt adminiſtrations have been ſo venal, they have practiſed
every cnormity, ſuch, indeed, as might ſet the murderous Machia-
vel to ſchool." Subjects have been pillaged by the moſt cruel def-
potiſm. An appeal lies always open to the Porte, and not unfre-
quently theſe infamous miniſters have been facrificed to juſtice;
but all that they have amaſſed by rapine becomes the property of the
ſtate, and the injured individual has no other redreſs than the puniſh-
ment of the oppreſſor. As the government found the ſum of which
he had been deprived in the hands of a ſtate criminal, their total
confifcation never regards a private claim. Theſe are principles truly
Machiavelian ; but they exiſted long before Muſtafa III. commanded
that “ Il Principe," and the king of Pruſſia's refutation of that trca-
tiſe ſhould be tranſlated for his courtiers into the Turkiſh language.
The books they have on ſuch ſubjects, do not inculcate corrupt prac-
tices, but abound in maxims of virtuous policy.
A Turk, when high in office, has a ſingular dexterity in tempo-
riſing, and offers a thouſand obſtacles to deceive his enemy, or to dif-
appoint thoſe whom he acknowledges as friends, but has no inten-
tion to ſerve. The remembrance of benefit or injury is indelible
from his mind, and he will wait for the completion of gratitude or
vengcance with unwearied patience.
Such ſyſtems are ſtrengthened by daily uſe, and are readily
brought into practice by thoſe who have ſimilar examples always in
view. The courts of the viſier and paſhas, no leſs than the ſeraglio,
are flouriſhing ſchools of the modern arts of Ottoman adminiſtration.
By the anecdotes which are current in ſuch ſocieties they are in-
c Henry VI. p. 3.
39
ſtructed and perfected in the mazes of political intrigue. Born and
educated under a government corrupted by tyranny, they learn how
to give a colour to ſtrategems, and to employ all the engines of fe-
cret influence, or open enormity d.
It has been objected to them as a leading error, that the poſt of
vifier is ſo frequently vacated, and that the moſt illiterate of men have
been elevated to it. With few examples to the
With few examples to the contrary, it may be
aſſerted that a long experience and obſervation of the conduct of thofe
in power have qualified them for the office at the
age
when they
uſually obtain it. Their want of education, in inſtances where it exiſts,
is not detrimental, for all the ſubordinate departments are conducted
with equal ability, and the adminiſtration of affairs is not at preſent
diſconcerted either by the frequent change or literary incapacity of
the viſier. Hiſtorians doubt if Charlemagne could write his own
name. Yet the eye of candour will diſcover a concomitant excellence,
counterbalancing the groffeſt defect in the internal government of the
empire.
.
The aggregate revenue of the ſultan amounted to fixteen mil-
lions of piaſtres, about 700,000l. a year, ariſing from his hereditary
feodal poffeffions, the capitation tax, and the confiſcation of property,
: La Turcheſca politica e gran labyrinto malagevole a penetrare per li tortuoſi
ſottili e ſempre nouvi raggiri. Toderini, v. i. p. 65.
Buſinello, ſecretary to the Venetian embaſſy to the Porte, has written a treatiſe on it
in a ſeries of letters, who ſays “Non ignari delle arte del buon governo, e cognoſcendo il
ſiſtema d'ogn altro principe, non caminan da ciechi dietro la ſolita traccia delle paſſione,
ma ſi derigono colla ragione e col intereffe."
Of the ſeveral very able polítical tracts which are found in the library of the ſeraglio,
the moſt remarkable and eſteemed is entitled “ Affaf Nameh Lutfi Paſha,” the Mirror of
Viſiers by Lutfi Paſha. It includes directions for the conduct of miniſters under every
probable circumstance, and ſuggeſts motives of refined and liberal policy.
40
independently of the accumulated treaſures of the ſeraglio, of which,
upon emergency, he has the diſpoſal, and which no ſtranger has the
power of computing. A monopoly of grain and coffee has been
cſtabliſhed by the reigning prince, the former of which is calculated
to produce, in Conſtantinople only, 1360 l. ſterling a day. He buys
it at one piaſtre a kilo, ſomewhat leſs than a buſhel, and ſells it at
three to the bakers, who retail it in bread for four piaſtres. When
the imperial granaries are ill ſupplied the diſcontent of the people
threatens an inſurrection ; indeed the whole ſcheme is conſidered as
a very dangerous infringement of their ancient exemptions. Another
as impolitic mode of increaſing the preſent income has been much
extended within a few years; the debaſing the current coin. The
“arſlan," when the Engliſh embaſſy was eſtabliſhed in the reign of
James I. was the fourth part of a pound ſterling; the ſame
coin is now only the thirteenth. A“ ſtamboul,” of five piaſtres, is
twice made from one Venetian ſequin, value ſeven ; ſo that the pro-
portion of alloy is much greater than of any other currency in Europe.
Perhaps the plated money in the papal ſtate ſhould be excepted. The
profits from the mint are therefore too tempting to be relinquiſhed
for the founder policy of other nations reſpecting their coinage,
by a monarch who has no commercial intereſts to conſult.
Confifcation is levied only upon the ſervants of the crown, who
arc in any meaſure employed by the ſultan, whenever their exceſſive
opulence awakens the jealouſy or the avarice of their maſter. Ri-
caut and Monteſqiou have advanced crroneous opinions concerning
the univerſal proprietorſhip of the ſultan, which Sir J. Porter very
judiciouſly explodes º.
The national treaſury is ſeparate from that of the emperor, and
.“ Obſervations on the Turks,” p. 49, 8vo. 2d edit.
41
its finances were about 1,000,000 1. a year. By a new ſyſtem of
taxes on wine and raw ſpirit, 60,000 l. are added, which are applied
to the expenditure occaſioned by the late military arrangements.
Sultan Abdulhamid was rigidly obſervant of the Mohammedan
laws, and in order to prevent the ſcandalous drinking of wine, which
was practiſed by the inferior Turks, in taverns kept by Greeks at
Pera, withdrew his licence. By a founder policy, his fucceffor im-
poſed a heavy tax on wine fo retailed, and improved his finances.
The Turks, much affected by this new arrangement, contrived to
make their grievance known to the ſultan through the channel of
his favourites, but he replied ironically, “ My deſign was to reſtrain
the exceſſes of infidels, a true muſulman can have no reaſon to com-
plain.”
The Turks are ſingularly expert at calculation, and the ſcience of
numbers. All public accounts are kept in aſpàrs, the half of our
farthing, with the utmoſt exactneſs. They have a mode, ſaid to be
ſimple, which abbreviates labour. According to the grammarians
Erpenius and Meninſki, the numeral cyphers were borrowed from
the Indians by the Arabs, and not invented by them. Letters, as
uſed by the Greeks and Latins, are likewiſe adopted by the Turks,
but with a different combination.
A few anecdotes of the ſultanº and the preſent ruling cabinet,
which I offer as genuine, may not be unacceptable, as various cauſes
ſeem at this juncture to conſpire, by which the Ottoman court may
take a more active part on the great political theatre of Europe.
© The public ſtyle and title of the ſultan abound in Afiatic hyperbole ; he is called
“ Governor of the earth, Lord of three continents and two feas,” and very frequently
“ Hunkiar the ſlayer of men.”
42
Sultan Selim III. is the eldeſt male deſcendant of the houſe of Or-
man, who in 1299 eſtabliſhed the fifth dynaſty of the kalifes. At
the death of his father Muſtafa III. in 1775, he was fourteen years
old. According to the known precedent amongſt the Turks, Abdul-
hamid, his uncle, fucceeded to the throne; for they diſdain to be
governed either by a woman or a boy.
At his acceſſion Abdul-hamid had reached the
age of forty-nine,
and during the fifteen years reign of his brother Muſtafa had en-
dured a ſtate impriſonment, which the jealous policy of the ſeraglio
had long ordained'. As a ſolace of his confinement he cultivated li-
terature and the arts of peace. His diſpoſition, mild and beneficent,
induced him to forego the ancient prejudice, and to ſuperintend the
education of Sultan Selim, giving him every liberal indulgence.
Sultan Muſtafa and Sultan Mahmood, the ſons of Abdul-hamid and
the only remaining heirs of the empire, are both minors. They ex-
perience a generous return for their father's kindneſs, and are treated
with ſuitable reſpect. Each has his feparate fuite of apartments, ,
and fixty attendants, amongſt whom are thirty elderly female ſlaves,
with an annual revenue of 5000l. ſterling. The good muſulman,
who laments the poſſible extinction of the imperial family, is com-
forted by the aſtrologers, who have publicly declared, that after he
has attained to forty years, Sultan Selim will be bleſſed with a nu-
merous progeny.
His countenance is handſome and impreſſive, and his figure good;
he is affable, and poſſeſſes much ſpeculative genius, is not ill-in-
formed of the characters and ſeparate intereſts of his contemporary
princes, and has every inclination to reconcile his ſubjects to the fu-
perior cxpediency of European maxims, both in politics and war.
f“ Bears like a Turk, no brother near the throne.”
43
But it is dubious if he be capable of that energetic activity, and that
perſonal exertion, which are required in an abſolute prince to re-
model a people whofe opinions are not to be changed but by an
univerſal revolution.
Peter the Great and Charles XII. in their plans of regenerating,
or conquering the Ruſſians, did not depend ſolely upon the agency of
miniſters for ſucceſs.
The curioſity of Selim reſpecting the other nations of Europe
originated in frequent converſations with Rachìb Effendi, the preſent
hiſtoriographer-royal, who was for ſome time cnvoy at Vienna, after
the laſt war.
Thoſe who have gained his confidence ſince the com-
mencement of his reign, have conſulted that inclination, and im-
proved every opportunity of extending his intelligence on thoſe
ſubjects. I have heard it afferted that the young men in thc ſeraglio
are now inſtructed in the French language by his command; and
his partiality to French wine is no ſecret amongſt the well informed.
The firſt efforts towards improvement have been applied to the
army and marine. Forts have been erected on the Boſporus, regi-
ments have been trained to European diſcipline, chiefly by French
officers, and the ficet will become in a certain degree formidable.
When he has leiſure to render his vaſt territory, at leaſt in the
vicinity of his capital, more reſemblant of civilized nations, he will
probably eſtabliſh a poſt, which may facilitate communication be-
tween diſtant provinces. During the laſt war many places of im-
portance were taken, or evacuated, weeks before the miniſtry were
in poſſeſſion of the fact.
The only imperial works now ſeen in his dominions are moſques,
aqueducts, and fountains; he may hereafter turn his attention to
44
great roads, now barcly paflable, which would be as uſeful monu-
ments of his fame.
He was
Mehmet Melèk Paſha, the late viſicr, reſigned in 1794.
a favourite, in his youth, of Muſtafa III. who gave him his ſiſter in
marriage, and the appellation of Melèk, or the Angel, on account of
his ſingular beauty; for the Turks uſually take their ſurname from
ſome perſonal excellence or peculiarity. After having enjoyed ſome
of the moſt lucrative governments in the empire he returned to
Conſtantinople, and was called to the viſirate, at the advanced age
of ninety years, in 1789. He has retired to his palace on the Aſiatic
fide of the Boſporus, and, as an extraordinary fact in natural hiſtory,
has had a ſon born to him whoſe legitimacy cannot be invalidated.
The preſent ſyſtem of government aims at the ſuppreſſion of the
former fole authority of the viſier, and has reduced him to a mere
member of the cabinet council. As the ſultan takes a more active
ſhare than his predeceſſor in public affairs, and liſtens to more ad-
viſers, it ſeems to draw to an end. The viſier now in office is
likewiſe a harmleſs old man, ſo that they may probably ſoon “ ſit
ſtate-ſtatues onlys."
The ruling perſons of the preſent day are, 1. Yuſuf Agha, kiayah,
or high-ſteward to the ſultan's mother, who retains a very decided
influence with him. Yûſuf's private life has been marked by un-
common circumſtances. He is a native of Candia, and was origi-
nally a writer to a ſhip, from which employment he paſſed into the
ſervice of Abdullàh Paſha, beglerbey of Anatolia, reſiding at Kutayah.
During ten years he ſo ingratiated himſelf with the paſha, that he
determined to ſecure to him his great wealth in his life-time.
& Shakeſpeare, Hen. VIII. Act i. Scene 2.
45
Accordingly he gave him intire poffeffion, ordering him to fly to the
Porte, and to urge the heavieſt complaints againſt him for his injuf-
tice and ill-treatment. Meanwhile the paſha died. The Capidji
baſhi was diſpatched by the ſultan to ſeize the treaſure, but found
nothing, and Yuſuf, from the predicament in which he ſtood, was
the laſt perſon to be ſuſpected. With this wealth he lived in ſplen-
dour at Conſtantinople, and frequented the audiences of the viſier.
He was ſoon appointed taraphanà eminy, or maſter of the mint,
from which he was advanced to his preſent poſt.
2. Ratib Effendi has twice held the important office of reis ef-
fendi, or ſecretary of ſtate. He roſe from a public clerk, paſſing
through all the preliminary gradations with diſtinguiſhed ability.
He is beyond compariſon the beſt-informed and moſt capable mi-
niſter in the cabinet.
3. Tchiuſèh, kiayah, or deputy to the viſier, is at the head of the
finance, and planned the new taxes.
The preſent capudàn paſha, or high admiral, called Kuchuk
Huſſein, from his diminutive ſtature, was a Georgian ſlave, and the
companion of the ſultan in his childhood. From the ſeraglio he
emerged to take the command of the navy, it may be preſumed
without much previous acquaintance with maritime affairs. But his
adminiſtration has been very beneficial; for he has raiſed the marine
from the miſerable ſtate it was left in at the concluſion of the Ruſſian
war to reſpectability. The new ſhips are built under the inſpection of
European ſurveyors, and French nautical terms have been adopted.
At the beginning of the preſent century, the Turkiſh fleet conſiſted
of 32 ſhips of the line, 34 galleys, and ſome brigantines; they can
now ſend to ſea 14 firſt rates, 6 frigates, and 50 floops of war.
46
Every ſpring he leaves Conſtantinople with a few ſhips, to viſit
the Archipelago, to receive the capitation tax from the different
iſlands, and to free the ſeas from pirates, and the Malteſe cruiſers.
The time of his coming is generally known, ſo that the ſervice is
little more than a matter of form. His reception by the ſultan,
both at his departure and return, is a brilliant ſpectacle. He is mar-
ried to the only daughter of Abdul hamid, and is honoured with the
private friendſhip of his ſovereign.
Every ſcheme for defending the coaſts of the Black ſea by forts
and batteries, and for military regulations, is ſubmitted to Cheliby
Effendi, who ſurveys their execution, if approved". He was maſter
of the mathematical ſchool founded in 1773 by Ghazi, Haſſàn paſha,
a very celebrated character in the laſt reign.
This extraordinary perſon was likewiſe a Gcorgian ſlave, and af-
terward a Barbary corſair. Having been taken priſoner by the Spa-
niards, he paſſed ſix years of ſlavery at Madrid, from whence he was
ſent to Naples, where he was exchanged, and returned to Conſtanti-
nople. His reputation for perſonal courage procured him the com-
mand of a galley, and afterward of a frigato. At the unfortunate
battle of Cheſhme he had a ſhip of the line under Jaffer, capudan
paſha, who upon his diſgrace died of chagrin, and was ſucceeded by
Hafran.
} In 1984 a ſchool of theoretical navigation was inſtituted by the viſier Hamid Halil
Pallia, who was beheaded the next year.
Boſcovitz diſcovered errors in the navigation of the Black ſea, by which ſo
many
lives
arc annually loft, but no falutary reformation has taken place.
The firſt idca of European fortifications was given to the Turks by Baron de Tott,
who was employed to erect thoſe at the Dardanelles, and at the mouth of the Boſporus.
Had his plans been adopted to their full extent, they would not have looked ſo much like
card-boxes ; but the Turks curtail all their national works by parfimony and jobbing.
47
1
He was extremely whimſical, and kept a lion's whelp always on
his fofa, which he had trained up to follow hiin, but which, having
killed one of the domeſtics, was afterward chained. He became
viſier, and died at the age of more than ſeventy, in the camp againſt
the Ruſſians, not without ſuſpicion of poiſon. So ſingular was his
bravery, and ſo frequent his ſucceſſes, that he aſſumed the name of
Ghazi, the victorious. Abdul-hamid was fearful, and conſidered the
ſafety of the empire endangered by his abſence from Conſtantinople.
Of his prevailing influence the following relation is a proof, and
gives traits of ſecret machinations practiſed in the ſeraglio.
One of his ſlaves, named Yuſuf, had ſo recommended himſelf by
ſuperior talents, that he gave him liberty, and promotion to the moſt
confiderable offices. At the time Yuſuf returned from his go-
vernment of the Morea, to take upon him the office of viſier, Mavro-
yeni, a Greek of a noble family, was the drogoman, or interpreter,
to his patron Haſſan. Petraki, another Greek, was maſter of the
mint, and imperial banker, and had amaſſed ſeven millions of
piaſtres.
This man being ambitious of becoming prince of Wallachia, he
three times procured the appointment of Mavro-yeni to that high
ſtation, who had the intereſt of Haſſan and the viſier to be ſuper-
feded. But they, impatient of the diſappointment repreſented, to
Abdul-hamid, that the people demanded the life of Petraki in atone-
ment of his peculation, who timidly conſented to his execution, and
he was inſtantly impriſoned. On the very day of the high cere-
mony of Mavro-yeni's inveſtiture, he was led to the gate of the fe-
raglio to kiſs his ſtirrop, and ſue for pardon. At that inſtant the
executioner ſtruck off his head, and Mavro-yeni had the ſatisfaction
of ſeeing his rival dead at his feet. Another Haſlàn palha who hated
48
him, becoming viſier, ordered him to be beheaded upon the charge
of betraying Giurgevow, the firſt Turkiſh fortreſs upon the Danube,
to the Germans. He died a muſulman. Abdul-hamid, when in-
formed of the laſt-mentioned circumſtance, was ſo far convinced of
his innocence, that in a few months the vindictive viſier ſhared the
fame fate.
The officers of the feraglio are very numerous.
The kiſlar-agha,
or chief of the black eunuchs, having the arrangement of the fe-
male department, is moſt familiar with the ſultan, and is a powerful
friend, or enemy, to the miniſters of ſtate.
Between the officers of the feraglio and thoſe who compoſe the
divan, there fubfifts a perpetual rivalry, and if the emperor be either
very active or indolent in public buſineſs, there is ample cauſe for
their jealouſy. Thoſe with whom he is conſtantly converſant, and
before whom he relaxes into colloquial freedom, muſt neceſſarily ob-
tain ſecret influence cnough to bias him in matters of importance, if
he wiſhes others than his oftenſible counſellors, or is determined by
firſt repreſentations without farther deliberation.
i The whole number of theſe devoted beings, within the walls of the ſeraglio, ex-
ceeds four hundred; negroes are the moſt eſteemed, as being more ugly. They are
brought, as well for the ſupply of this number, as the harèms of grandees, from Abyſſinia,
where a moſt iniquitous traffic is carried on. Total einaſculation is performed during
their infancy, and hundreds are annually ſacrificed to this inhuman operation. The
number of Mooriſh eunuchs is much greater than of European, and the provinces of their
chiefs, the kiſlar-agha, and the capy-baſhi, are the government of the harèm, and the
itſha-oglans, or young men educated in the ſeraglio. It may ſeem a foleciſm, but is no
leſs true, that both theſe officers are obliged to maintain their private harèms; for it is
the principle of Turkiſh law, that every man fhall provide for a certain number of wo-
mcı, proportioned to his wealth and rank in life, when a numerous harum becomes as
much an article of oftentation as a ſplendid equipage with us.
49
The miniſters are admitted to an audience with the ſultan with
the profoundeſt ceremony. Even in the preſence of the mild Abdul-
hamid the bold Haſſan was overpowered with awe, and the lion
ſeemed to be transformed into a lamb. One of the preſent miniſtry,
a man of great vivacity, is ſaid to compoſe his ſpirits with a pill of
opium before he approaches the throne.
The public proceſſions of the ſultan are conducted with great
ſplendour, on horſes gorgeouſly capariſoned, and a very numerous
train of guards and attendants. The citizens of Conſtantinople are
pleaſed with beholding the countenance of their ſovereign, and ſince
the reign of Morad IV. have inſiſted on his going publicly every
Friday, to ſome one or other of the moſques: he is always mounted
on an Arab horſe, and carries a ſmall umbrella in his hand, the ribs
of which are ſtudded with diamonds, blazing in the ſun. Sultan
Mahmood had been long an invalid, and omitted this duty, when
ſuch diſcontents aroſe that he was forced to venture out, and died
on his return under the ſecond gate of the feraglio. But the greateſt
magnificence is ſeen on the ſolemn days of the rammezàn, and
beyràm every year, and more eſpecially on the extraordinary occa-
fions of a donalmàh, or public rejoicing on the birth of a prince,
and the diſplaying the fanjak ſherife, or conſecrated banner of the
prophet, when the janiſſaries march to the field on a declaration
of war.
Such' exhibitions of the grandeur of this unwieldy monarchy
will not convey to the mind any proportionate ideas of its real
power, when we reflect that a people whoſe government is ſyf-
tematically corrupt and proportionably feeble, whoſe reſources are
neither underſtood nor applied, without commerce and without ma-
nufactures for foreign conſumption, cannot long remain an object
I
50
either of fear or of envy to other nations. So diſtant is the remark
in Shakeſpear, from preſent application,
« We muſt not think the Turk is ſo unſkilful
“ To leave that lateſt, which concerns him firſt.”
Othello.
51
SECTION IV.
of THE IMPERIAL MOSQUES-SANTA SOPHIA-TENURE OF VA-
CUF AND ACCOUNT OF ITS ESTABLISHMENT-SULTAN MO-
HAMMED
II.
GREEK
ARCHITECTS
SULTAN
BAYAZID
SULTAN SELIM SULTAN AHMET I. SULEYMANIE SHA-
ZADEH OSMANIE LALELI TURBEHS OR SEPULCHRAL
CHAPELS MOSQUES BUILT BY VALIDE SULTANS - PUBLIC
LIBRARIES AND ACADEMIES, AND THEIR INSTITUTION.
It is forbidden to any but a muſulman to enter the church of Santa
Sophia without a firhmàn, or written order from the ſultan, of which
I twice availed myſelf.
Many almoſt incredible hiſtories of this edifice may be found in
the Byzantine writers, who in their zeal for their religion did not
confine themſelves within the bounds of truth; whilſt they dwelt
with prolixity on the account of this magnificent temple. Hence
aroſe that high degree of veneration, in which it is held by the mo-
dern Greeks, who indulge the moſt extravagant notions of its decided
ſuperiority over any church in the known world, and retain with in-
finite credulity the traditions of its former excellence.
In a popular ſedition during the reign of Juſtinian, the firſt
church dedicated to the " Inſpired Wiſdom” by Conſtantine was
reduced to aſhes. The foundations of the prefent ſtructure were
then laid, and in eight years and five months, at the expence of
320,000 pounds of gold or ſilver (for antiquaries are uncertain), it was
completed by Anthemius of Tralles, the moſt celebrated architect of
his day, aſſiſted by Iſidorus of Miletus.
52
Anthemius borrowed from the ancients his idea of a cupola,
amongſt whom ſpherical temples were not uncommon; but the ele-
vating one on the intermediate baſe of four arcades inſtead of the
ground, and uniting in the ſame edifice the ſquare and the circular
form, is due to him alone. The Chriſtians were accuſtomed to dif-
poſe their temples in the form of a croſs; Anthemius made choice
of one, the branches of which are equal, which evinced his ſkill, as
better adapted to the cupola in the centre, for, whilſt it preſerves all
its grace and lightneſs within, it preſents on the outſide the moſt
exact and beautiful proportions.
The firſt attempt to conſtruct a dome of fo vaſt an expanſe was
unſucceſsful; in 558, twenty-one years after the dedication, an earth-
quake nearly deſtroyed it. The emperor Juſtinian, ſtill reigning,
employed another Iſidorus, nephew of the former, to repair it. The
new architect gave the dome an elevation of twenty feet more than
it had before its fall, and changed the originally circular into an
elliptical form. In order to give ſecurity to it, he fet up on the
north and ſouth ſides four columns of granite, each of a ſhaft forty
feet long. By means of arches, he placed a wall on them, and over
it ſix ſhorter columns; and by this arrangement he deſtroyed the ef-
fect of the Greek croſs, by ſhortening two of its extremities. The
piers are incruſted with marble, but no pilaſter is ſeen in the whole
church, nor is the ſlighteſt attention paid to the rules of ancient
architecture.
The dome is conſtructed with ſo ſmall a curve, that the perpen-
dicular concavity does not exceed one ſixth of the diameter, which
meaſures 115 feet, and 180 in the centre, above the floor.
That flatneſs, to which many critical objections are made,
has, it muſt be acknowledged, a moſt impoſing effect; and if the
53
great vault of heaven be the idea intended, with a happier imitation,
than at St. Peter's in Rome.
The whole concave from the windows is incruſted with moſaic
formed with ſmall teſſaræ, not exceeding a ſquare of the eighth of
an inch, and compoſed of a vitrified ſubſtance, reſembling glaſs,
called by Vitruvius “ ſmaltum.” Excepting four figures of coloſſal
ſize repreſenting ſeraphin, it is intirely gilt, decayed in many parts
from extreme age, but not intentionally defaced. There is a chapel
likewiſe adjoining to the great corridor, with a vault of moſaic almoſt
deſtroyed, which is ſold in ſmall fragments to the ſuperſtitious
Greeks, or curious viſitors, by the inferior officers of the moſque.
Certain critics allow to the dome of St. Sophia the merit only of ſu-
perior mechaniſm. The idea of placing a cupola in the centre of a
Greek croſs they admire in general, but contend that it was adopted
four centuries too late to have reached its higheſt perfection. They
remark many ſoleciſms in the architecture, uncorrected by the Gre-
cian or Roman ſchools, and that the columns are irregularly diſpoſed,
having capitals without ſtyle or entablature. Procopius ſays that
• ſuch is the lightneſs of the dome that it appears to be ſuſpended by
a chain from heaven. We now, in terreſtrial edifices, look for their
foundation on the earth; if it be inviſible, we appeal to common
ſenſe.
Beſide the grand cupola, are two larger and fix ſmaller femi-
domes. The whole ground-plan deſcribes the figure of a Greek
croſs within a quadrangle, but on the inſide is oval. The ſanctuary
was behind the tribune, towards the eaſt, and is ſaid to have con-
tained veſtments and jewels eſtimated at a million ſterling.
The ſolid piles are compoſed of ſtone cemented by the infuſion
of lead and quicklime, and guarded with circles of iron; and the
54
frame of the building is of brick covered with marble. The ſur-
rounding galleries are ſixty feet wide, which were appropriated to
women. They communicate with the nave through a colonnade of
fixty-ſeven pillars ; eight of porphyry had been placed in the temple
of the Sun at Rome by the emperor Aurelian, and were removed here
by Conftantine; and ſix of green jaſper once ſupported the roof of
the temple of Diana at Epheſus. The lower veſtibule is twenty-
eight feet wide, and has nine doors of bronze, with alto relievo. Of
the whole the exact breadth is 243 feet, and 269 the extreme length
to the doors above mentioned a.
Gibbon, for his excellent account of S. Sophia (Rom. Hift. v. vii. p. 117, and
v. xii. p. 145), conſulted Procopius de Ædif. Juſtiniani, 1. i. c. I ; Agathias, l. v. p. 152, 153;
Paul Silentrarius, in a poein of a thouſand hexameters, at the end of the Alexiad of Anna
Comnena, l.v. p. 65 to 86; and Evagrias, 1. iv. c. 31; all of whom had ſeen it in its firſt
ſplendour. Gyllius. Topog. Conſtantin. I. ii. c. 34, of which there is a tranſlation by 7.
Ball, C. C. C. Oxon. 8vo. 1724. Niceph. Gregoras, 1. vii. C. 12 ; l. xv. c. 2. Grelot,
Voyage de Conſtantinople, p. 95 to 164, who examined the building with a competent
knowledge of architecture, and made drawings, but on too ſmall a ſcale. They were re-
publiſhed by Bandurus, Imper. Orientale, 1711. In Ciampini de edificiis is a corrected plan
and elevation by Ludovico Sergardi, c. xxvii. p. 164, and another in Foſfati's Storia del Ar-
chitettura, t. ii. p. 121, copied likewiſe in Fiſcher's.
From the ſubjoined ſtatement of the dimenſions of temples and eccleſiaſtical buildings
in thc Grecian, Roman, Mooriſh, and Gothic ſtyles, may be collected how much the
moderns exceed the antients in their ideas of vaſtneſs of ground-plan, and loftineſs of roof.
Primeval temples had no roofs, and therefore cannot be compared with the cells or naves
which in the progreſs of architecture had gained increaſing dimenſions.
ORDER.
PLACES.
TUTELAR.
ARCHITECT.
DIMENSIONS.
Rhxcus
Doric, without roofs Samos
Elcufis
Juno
Ccres and Proſcr-
pine
Hiftinus
Doric, with roofs.
1
Agrigentum
Jupiter
Phxaces
It was ſo large as to contain 30,000
people aſſembled at the Eleuffinian
myſteries.
283 feet 4 inches by 33 feet 4; 100
feet high ; columns 26 feet 8 inches
diameter; and the grooves are ſaid to
be largc cnough for a man to ſtand in.
200 feet by 105.
425 feet by 220.
Doric
Olympia
Epheſus
Jupiter
Diana
Ionic
0
Cteſiphon
55
This edifice has now laſted twelve hundred years; during the
lapſe of which it has ſuffered much from earthquakes. In 1317, it
was propped by Andronicus, who added two buttreſſes of pyramidal
STYLE.
CENTURY.
PLACES.
TUTELAR.
ARCHITECT.
DIMENSIONS.
Lower Greck
Sixth
Conftantinople
S. Sophia
Anthemius
269 fect by 243.
In the eighth century, Abdul Achman, a Mooriſh prince, built at Cordova, from a
temple of Janus, a moſque 500 feet' by 258 feet 4 inches, with a dome ſupported by 365
columns of jaſper and verd antique.
Gothic
Eleventh
Pila
Duomo
Baſchetto
Gothic
Gothic
Eleventh
Twelfth
Thirteenth
Chartres
St. Denys
Amiens
Cathedral
Convent
Cathedral
Fulbert
Suggerius
R. Luſarche
Gothic
345 fcet ro in. by 120 feet 10,
tranſept 266 fect 8 in. by
62 feet 6.
350 feet by 75.
275 feet 2 in, nave 32 feet 6.
315 feet, nave 177 feet by 11o.
336 fect 8 in. by 168 feet 4,
nave 90 feet 4 inches.
307 feet 6 in. by 183 feet 9.
350 feet by 125.
344 feet 2 in. by 130 feet.
575 feet by 415.
Moorith
Thirteenth
Toledo
Cathedral
P. Perez
U
N
.
Duomo
Cathedral
!
Sienna
Rheims
Paris
Florence
G. da Pila
R. de Covey
J. Ravy
Bruneleſchi
Notre Dame
-
Duomo
Gothic
Fourteenth
Gothic
Fourteenth
Gothic
Fourteenth
Gothic
Fifteenth
Mooriſh, or
Lower Greek Fifteenth
Mooriſh
Sixteenth
Reitored Grecian Sixtcenth
Reſtored Grecian Seventeenth
St. Guiftina
A. Brioſco
Cathedral
Padua
Salamanca
Rome
London
306 feet 8 in. by 210 feet.
315 feet by 41 feet 8, nave only.
638 feet by 500.
446 feet by 250.
Giov. Gil.
M. Angelo
C, Wren
St. Peter
St. Paul
St. Peter's will contain fifteen thouſand people, on certain. ceremonies..
Spherical roofs have been conſtructed in every era of architecture; remains are ſtill
extant of one in the temple of Minerva at Athens, and that of the pantheon at Rome is
perfect. It is 138 feet in diameter, and 140 from the floor. Within, the elevation is
certainly ſufficient, but Italian architects condemn the antique form as flat and cruſhed,
in the external view. This criticiſm is likewiſe applied by them to the domes of S. So-
phia, St. Mark at Venice, built by Greeks, and St. Auguſtine at Rome, by Bacio Pintello,
in 1483, which was the model of others in that city. They allow, however, that the
dome of the church at Piſa has a certain Gothic ſharpneſs of very unpleaſing effect, an
error which Brunelleſchi has ſcarcely remcdied by the octangular diviſions of that at
Florence. He very ingeniouſly placed another within the great cupola, of more regular
proportions, which plan has been adopted both at St. Peter's and St. Paul's. It has ico
feet from the cornice to the lanthern, and a diameter of 110.
St. Peter's, under Pope Sixtus V. was completed in twenty-two months, by fix hun-
56
ſhape and folidity; the eaſtern hemiſphere fell in 1345. It was re-
paired, and three minarehs added by Selim II. in 1573, to that firſt
erected at the taking of Conſtantinople.
Entering by the north portal we were conducted through a long
arched way, gradually aſcending in a curve direction, till we reached
the gallery and colonnadc, which affords a complete view of this
auguſt edifice. The great dome has a regular tier of windows,
thickly placed, and reſts upon four arcades, connected with as many
cupolas incruſted with moſaic, which, blending with the principal,
form an expanſe of roof, which is truly a prodigy of art, and produces
an air of grandeur and ſtupendous effect, ſuch as might have been
fuppoſed far beyond human powers. In this point of conſideration
it is to be preferred to the churches of St. Peter and St. Paul; and
of this advantage we could form a better judgment, having been ad-
mitted to the lower part, from which many viſitors are excluded.
Of the interior parts little of the original ornament remains, except-
ing the numerous columns and pannels of porphery and jaſper, and
the moſaic of the dome. The ſhafts of the pillars are univerſally
headed with unaccordant capitals of foliage, apparently and very
clumſily imitated from the Compoſite. Time, and the barbarous
ſuperſtition of the Turks, have deſtroyed or obſcured with waſhes of
dred artificers, who are ſaid to have worked night and day. It has a diameter of 135 feet,
is 202 feet froin the cornice to the lanthern, and from the pavement 397.
St Paul's is from the ground to the top of the croſs 340 feet, with a diameter of 100.
The extreme perfection to which the architects of the iniddle centuries had attained in the
acrial architecture of towers and ſpires is of ſo peculiar a deſcription as to admit of no com-
pariſon with the works of their predeceſſors, nor are the vaulted roofs leſs admirable in
our own country, in France, and Germany.
Conſidering S. Sophia as the firſt erected chriſtian church now exiſting, I offer
without apology a digreſſion which gives a light view of others, amongſt the more l'e-
markable whiclı have ſucceeded it.
57
lime its former ſplendours; inſtead of which are now ſeen large ta-
blets inſcribed in the Arabic character, with the names of the Deity,
of Mohammed, and the four firſt kalifes, Ebubekir, Omar, Oſmàn,
and Haly. From the central dome innumerable lamps of coloured
glaſs, intermixed with globcs of cryſtal, oſtrich-eggs, and ornaments
of gold and ſilver, are ſuſpended, which are collected in a frame or
circle of equal dimenſions, incloſing many others. When they are
illuminated, they give the richeſt effect to this immenſe concave b.
The outſide view from ſo many heterogeneous additions, not
excepting the weſtern facade, ſhows only a pile of unſightly maſſes,
and, beſide the dome, has no diſcriminating feature. The four
minarehs which are detached, and have each a different form, give
ſomewhat of lightneſs, and are analogous to ſpires in Gothic churches;
in a pictureſque conſideration they harmonize more perfectly with
b The firſt gallery under the dome of St. Peter's gives a certain idea of the effect of
the cupola of Santa Sophia, but if a ſcaffold were erected half way from the floor, that
idea would be as complete as ſuch a parallel could make it. The blending of the four
ſemi-domcs, over the piers, doubling the expanſe of the central one, is unique. No other
can reach it.
Belon, p. 163, draws a compariſon between the domes of S. Sophia, and of the pan-
theon at Rome, and decides in favour of the former.
Baron De Tott, t. i. p. 262 to 264, in his diſparaging account of S. Sophia dif-
covers how little he underſtood of architecture not merely military, and has combated the
immoderate praiſe of others only by general and inaccurate cenſure. Sandys, p. 24, ob-
ſerves dexterouſly “ a long labour it were to deſcribe it exactly, and having done, mine eyes
that have ſeen it, would but condemn my imperfect relation.”
c
Menàr, or minarèh, is Arabic, and ſignifies a beacon. Valid, ſon of Abdul-malek,
the ſixth kalife of the Ommiades, in 690 firlt erected a minareh at the grand moſque of
Damaſcus. Another, built at Alexandria by the fame prince, was deſtroyed by lightning.
D’Herbelot, v. iii. p. 157. All the royal moſques are diſtinguiſhed by two, or four
minarehs; others have but one. Sultan Ahmet has ſix, which gave offence to thic
ulemah, becauſe at Mecca there are four only.
I.
58
the other parts, which would fill the eye very heavily, but for ſuch a
relief. Some of them nearly reſemble the monument at London,
excepting that the baſe is ſloped to the ſhaft, and the gallery is
circular.
There is no obſtruction to the view within ſide; every part is dif-
tinctly feen; and that grand combination which reſults from the whole
is not interrupted by inferior objects. The ſpacious floor originally
wrought in moſaic compartments of porphery and verd antique is
intirely covered with the richeſt carpets, and free from feats or
benches. The ſultan's gallery is incloſed by gilded lattice, and the
throne of the muftì placed on the top of a very long flight of narrow
ſtairs d.
For the daily ſervice of S. Sophia, as a moſque, many imaums are
appointed, beſide members of the ulemàh, or collective body of the
Turkiſh hierarchy, who have ſtipends ariſing from the revenues of
the church, which amount to 3000l. a year. This fund is ſupplied
from a ſpecies of tenure called vacùf, in ſome meaſure analogous to
church lands with us. It is very general throughout Turkey on ac-
count of its ſecurity; for the rapacious hands of government cannot
reach it. Lands or houſes, held by any ſubject of the empire, are
made vacùf by dedicating them to the moſques of Mecca, Medina,
or Conſtantinople, or to any fountain, or religious eſtabliſhment,
paying a few aſpars a day, according to the value; whereby the in-
heritance is ſecured to the deſcendants in a right line of males and
females. In default of iſſue that portion lapſes to the moſque, which
The plans and ſections with the elevation of S. Sophia are much more exactly and
ſcientifically given by Grelot than by Du Cange. In the “ Imperium Orientale” of
Anſelm Bandurus, a Ragufian monk, publiſhed at Paris, 1711, 2 vols
. folio, an extremely
curious collection, Grelot's delineations are re-engraven on a large ſcale.
59
becomes poſſeſſed of the whole property when the family is extinct :
but the laſt heir may ſell his or her portion, ſubject to the original
conditions; and the ſame advantage accompanies the transfer, when
the tenure is renewed.
Mohammed II. not only dedicated S. Sophia to Iſlamiſm, but in
1471 erected a ſuperb moſque which bears his name.
To Greek architects the Turks are indebted for the erection of
their moſques, which have evidently S. Sophia for their model, with
ſlight variations in the ground-plan; but none have attained to the
excellence of the dome'. Chriſtodolus was employed by Moham-
med II. for this building, which crowns one of the ſeven hills, and
has a noble area and elevation, upon the ſite, and probably with the
materials, of the celebrated church of the apoſtles, built by Thcodora
wife of Juſtinian, which, both in its dome and claborate conſtruction,
is ſaid, by Procopius, to have rivalled that of Santa Sophia. At that
time, the aſhes of St. Luke, St. Andrew, and Timothy, are reported,
with little appearance of truth, to have been diſcovered and
faned; but it was certainly the mauſoleum of the Greek emperors
and the imperial family. It was ſo ſhattered by the dreadful earth-
quake in 1768, that it was nearly rebuilt by Muſtafa III.
pro-
Sultan Bayazid (for the moſquès 5 take the name of their founder),
Conſtantinople was a ſchool of architecture in the firſt centuries of chriſtianity, at
leaſt for eccleſiaſtical edifices. In the thirteenth, Moroſini doge of Venice invited an archi-
tect from thence, who deſigned and ſuperintended the cathedral of St. Marco, which has
cupolas and hemiſpheres of Gothic proportions. The moſques of Mohammed II. and
Seliin II. were both executed under the direction of two Greeks, of the ſame family.
Cantemir, l. ii. p. 55.
f Smith de Septem Ecclef. p. 49.
$ The word moſque is a Frank corruption from “ mesjid," nor are ſuch uncommon,
60
finiſhed in 1498, is celebrated for marbles, collected from the public
edifices of Conſtantinople. There are twenty columns of remarkable
ſize and value, ten of verd antique, four of jaſper, and fix of Egyptian
granite. Sultan Selim II. was begun in 1552, and completed in
1556. The marbles were all brought from Alexandria Troas. It
forms a perfect ſquare of feventy-five feet, with the dome riſing
from the ſide walls. Upon the ſame plan he erected another at
Adrianople.
One ſide of the atmeydàn, the ancient hippodrome, is occupied
by Sultan Ahmet I. who in 1610 conſtructed a moſque with ſuch
profuſe expence that every ſtone was computed to have coſt him
three aſpars. He was ſo intent upon this plan, that every Friday he
worked himſelf for an hour, and paid the artificers their wages. As
a mark of fuperior magnificence, there are ſix minarèhs, of extra-
ordinary height and beauty, filletted by three capitals or galleries in
the Saracenic ſtyle, and finiſhed by ſharp cones. The approach to
this as well as to other moſques is rendered more grand by a large
area ſurrounded by a lofty colonnade of marble, or porphery, forming
a ſtately ambulatory, on the roofs of which are diſpoſed thirty ſmall
cupolas, and at the angles the minarèhs. In the centre are fountains
of poliſhed marble, and the gates are of wrought braſs, without
figures in relievo. As to internal embelliſhment, the walls are
gaudily painted in freſco without regularity, many gilt tablets, in-
fcribed with Arabic characters, are placed againſt them, and the
floors univerſally covered with carpets h. The windows, conſiſting
1
though fo generally adopted by European writers, as turban for “ dulbènd,” the muſlin
which Turks only are privileged to wear; janizary for “ yeni tchèri; ſeraglio for “ferài,”
fimply a palace; Mahomet for Mohamınèd ; Ottoman for Oſmàn, &c.
" The dome is ſupported by four large piers, which are fluted and divided in the
middle with a fillet. D'ohon in his Tableau de l'Empire Ottoman gives a ſplendid view
61
of many fmall pieces of ſtained glaſs thickly ſtudded, have a ſingular
richneſs, and “teach light to counterfeit a gloom” of the moſt
pleaſing effect. How much that influence over the mind is height-
ened in chriſtian churches by the full choir, or decent ceremonies,
will be felt in theſe temples of Mohammed, in which are ſeen only a
few devotees writhing themſelves in diſtorted attitudes, and drawling
out portions of the Koràn with equal loudneſs and diſcordance.
Here we meet with no concomitant idea; and the later moſquès
have little to diſtinguiſh them from a ſpacious ſaloon, if we could
imagine them attached to an imperial palace of correſpondent extent
and magnificence. They are all built of marble, or whitened ſtone;
and the elevation wanting thoſe tints that form an harmonious gra-
dation of light and ſhade, has an extreme rawneſs, on a near ap-
proach.
The Suleymanie roſe from the materials of the great church of
St. Euphemia, removed from Chalcedon', by Suleyman II. in 1556.
Its dimenſions are 216 feet by 210; the great dome has two hemi-
ſpheres, and over cach aiſle are five ſmaller ones, and in the area are
twenty-four columns, with as many cupolas, one ſide of which is
circular. Within are four pillars of porphery of an incredible ſize
and value. This moſque is conſidered by the Turks, and ſhown to
foreigners, as being ſuperior to the reſt in ſymmetry and elegance.
of it at the grand feſtival of mevloòd. Four large femidomes blend with the central, and
in the four corners of the building are as inany ſmall cupolas. Bandurus, v. ii. has copied
the ſmall plan and elevation of Grclot.
i The church of St. Euphemia at Chalcedon, in which the council was held in 451
againſt the hereſy of Eutychius, was celebrated for its architecture; fix hundred and thirty
biſhops were then ranged, in the nave. Gibbon, R. H. v, vii. p. 304.
Bandurus (v. ii.) has engraven a plan and elevation of the Suleymanie froin Grelot,
with an accurate ſcale,
62
Shaà Zadeh was built in 1544, as the mauſoleum of his ſon
Mohammed, by Solymàn II.
The Oſmanie was begun by Mohammed IV. toward the cloſe of
the laſt century. He had a good taſte in architecture; and having
procured deſigns of the moſt celebrated European churches, wiſhed
to have adopted the plan of one of them, but was diſſuaded by the
ulemah. At his death in 1687 it was unfiniſhed, but afterward
completed by his brother Oſman III. who gave it his own name.
The dome covers the whole, without piers or columns, and has an
extremely light elevation.
A ſmall, but moſt elegant, moſque called Lalelì, or the tulip,
was built by Sultan Mahmoòd in 1753. It is completely wainſcoted
with veneered marble, and has two large embroidered tablets, repre-
ſenting the cities of Mecca and Medina.
Near the Oſmanie is part of a ſarcophagus, ten feet by ſix, and
cight deep, of one ſolid block of porphery highly poliſhed; the cover
is loft, and it is now filled with water. It, traditionally, contained
the body of Conſtantine.
Adjoining to each moſque is the turbèh, or fepulchral chapel of
its founder, which is fitted up as a moſque, with large iron lattices
to the ſtreet, through which are diſtinctly ſeen the bier and coffin,
decorated with a pall of crimſon velvet embroidered with gold; at
the head is placed the turban, at the feet a ſilver candleſtick four or
five feet high, and above a circle of lamps. Reliques of the deceaſed
are likewiſe there preſerved: in that of Sultan Mahmood is the
Koràn written with his own hand k.
* The two great claims to the ſuperior approbation of the prophet, and which give
63
Beſide the imperial moſques are ſeveral originating in the piety
of thcir mothers. Of theſe the chief are Yeni Giamiſi, near the
harbour, where only are columns of jaune antique, and the two light
ſtructures near the Adrianople gate, and at Scutari, both founded by
the ſame validè ſultàn, and, as the Turks tell us, with the price only
of her ſlippers.
The ſultans who have founded moſques have not indulged only
their attachment to their religion, or their taſte for magnificence, in
the erection of ſo many ſplendid buildings, but have contributed to
the public good, by invariably attaching to them academics, with
profeſſors, hoſpitals, and khans. No ſyſtem can be more benevolent
or politic than that which embraces ſo many objects, and ſupplies ſo
many wants. To ſeveral of the royal moſques libraries are added.
Mohammed II. favoured literature, and in the year after his conqueſt
of Conſtantinople annexed an academy to S. Sophia, penſioned pro-
feſſors, and eſtabliſhed a fund for the maintenance of ſtudents. In
1784 they amounted to a hundred and fifty. The academy adjoin-
ing his own moſque contains ſixteen claffes, with thirty ſtudents in
each, who have a liberal maintenance. Its date is 1471. The
ſchools of Bayazid II. Selim I. and Suleyman II. contain more than
four hundred pupils, all of whom are lodged and educated on the
foundation. Others of Ahmet I. Oſman III. and Muſtafà III. in-
clude at leaſt five hundred more. The maſters are called “ ſoftah,"
who have chambers and maintenance. Each of theſe has a “chiomès,"
or boy, whom he inſtructs, and who waits on him as a ſervant. The
ſoftàh are prohibited marriage, and eating more than once in twenty-
four hours. The ſalary of the firſt profeſſors is about 100l. a year.
diſtinction to individuals, are the pilgrimage to Mecca, and the having learned to repeat
the Koràn by heart, or tranſcribed it with ſcrupulous elegance. By theſe performances
the much-envied titles of hadji and hafiz are ſolely to be acquired.
64
+
It appeared from the books of the ſtamboul effendisì before the
grcat
fire in 1782, that there were in Conſtantinople more than five hun-
dred ſchools. In theſe ſeminaries all the members of the ulemàh are
educated; and none can be admitted into the departments of the
hierarchy, or law, without a previous matriculation, or in fact having
been graduated in them'.
Thirteen public libraries are open in Conſtantinople eſtabliſhed
by ſultans or viſiers, none of which contain more than 2000 volumes,
all in manuſcript. Their value is much enhanced by the high price
of tranſcription; from fifteen to twenty pounds are paid for a folio
well written, but without ornament or illuminations.
The library of S. Sophia was founded by Suleyman the Magnifi-
cent in the ſixteenth century, and furniſhed in its preſent ſtate by
Sultan Mahmoòd in 1754. The number of MSS. is 1527, amongſt
which is a Koràn written by Oſmàn, the third kalife, and com-
mentaries upon it in 133 volumes. That of Sultan Mohammed is
open every day, and has three keepers. One of the 1525 MSS. it
contains is the Koràn complete in the Cufic character, detached
leaves of which are eftcemcd ſo great a curioſity in the European
collections.
In
1779
Sultan Abdul-hamid opened a library for public reſort.
Its greateſt rarity is thc Koràn in three diſtinct copies, by the kalifes
1 The deſcendants of three families, Dareh Zadèh, Piri Zadeh, and Damaz Zadeh,
ſeem to have acquired a kind of hereditary right of being admitted to ecclefiaftical offices,
without this preliminary, by the eſpecial diſpenſation of the ſultan. Toderini-fulla Lett.
Turcheſe. t. ii. p. 28.
The revelations of Mohammed to his coadjutors fill 200 volumes in the library of
S. Sophia. ld. t. i. p. 17.
65
Omar, Oſman, and Halì. Many MSS. which had lain neglected in
the library of the ſeraglio were refitted by his order, and placed here.
Of the viſiers, that of Mehmet Cupruglu, Rachib paſha, and Ibra-
him palha, are the moſt worthy notice. In all of them the ſame
arrangement of the books is made; they are placed flat in preſſes,
and lettered on the leaves at one end.
We hear a parallel drawn between the Turks and other nations
of Europe, which is not a candid ſtatement; if it were made be-
tween them and the populous empires of the Eaſt, who profeſs the
ſame faith, they would not loſe ſo much by the compariſon.
So widely as they are diſcriminated from European chriſtians in
opinions and general habits of life, no fair analogy will be found to
exiſt between them.
They may be called, nationally ſpeaking, an illiterate people ; yet
it is no leſs true that a taſte for literature, however ill directed by
prejudice, is cultivated by many individuals.
K
66
SECTION V.
ATMEYDAN
OR HIPPODROME
EGYPTIAN OBELISK SERPEN-
TINE
COLUMN-BRAZEN
OBELISK_GAME
OF
DJIRITRE-
MARKS ON ANCIENT AND MODERN CONSTANTINOPLE-STREETS
-HOUSES AND DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE-SILENCE IN THE
STREETS-FIRES AND THE CONDUCT OF THE TURKS AT THEM
-KHAN6-BAZARSBEZESTEN-DESCRIPTION OF DIFFERENT
NATIONS-THE TURKS, THE GREEKS, THE ARMENIAN,
-
AND
JEW--MECHANICAL TRADES-COFFEE-HOUSES-OPIUM AD-
MINISTRATION OF PUBLIC JUSTICE SUMPTUARY LAWS
DRESS OF TIIE TURKSSKETCH OF SOCIETY AND MANNERS.
The antago-
The moſt extenſive open ſpace in Conſtantinople is called the
Atmeydan”, during the Greek empire the Hippodrome, fo conſtantly
occupied by public ſpectacles, and athletic exhibitions. The
niſts were diſtinguiſhed by green and blue habits, who were frequently
ſo numerous as to form factions or inſurrections, which endangered
the peace of the empire at large.
+
On onc
This area is at preſent 250 paces long and 150 wide.
ſide is the moſque of Sultan Ahmet, and on another part of a large
building, ſaid to have been the queſtor’s palace, now appropriated to
the reception of inſane perſons, of whom no medical care is taken,
ſuch being eſteemed by the Turks as peculiarly favoured by Heaven.
a 66
“The horſe courſe.” A view of it 100 years before the taking of Conitantinople
is copied by Onuphurius Panvinius, in the “ Thefaur. Antiq.” apparently with ſlight re-
ſemblance.
67
Of Grecian remains there are three memorable ſpecimens.
The obeliſkº is compoſed of a ſingle granite block, 60 feet
high, and inſcribed on its four ſides with Ægyptian hieroglyphics.
It was brought from Thebes in Egypt, and was erected by means of
curious. machinery in thirty-two days, under the direction of Procu-
lus, the prætor of the city, at the command of Theodoſius the elder.
The baſe is ſeven feet high, ſculptured with bas reliefs in ſo poor a
ſtyle as to evince the great decay of the arts in that age. Inſcrip-
tions in Greek and Latin are now almoſt funk under ground, but are
preſerved by Spon and Ducange. The ſubject of the bas reliefs is the
b Nicætas Choniates, the continuator of the Byzantine hiſtory to the taking of Con-
ftantinople, by Baldwyn Earl of Flanders in 1203, in relating the deſtruction done to the
remains of Grecian art by the French and Venetians, gives a curious catalogue of thoſe
exiſting in his days, in inflated language, and very queſtionable veracity. The four bra-
zen horſes, ſaid to be the work of Lycippus, were removed from the arch of Nero at
Rome, by Conſtantine, to the hippodrome, and tranſported from thence to Venice, where
they now ſtand in the great duomo of St. Mark. Columns of porphery, and moſaics,
the work of the lower ages, were likewiſe brought from thence to enrich the Venetian
churches.
In the church of St. Apollenare, at Ravenna, are 24 columns of verd-antique, re-
ported to have been removed from Conſtantinople by ſome of the later Greek
nperors,
to whom that cityf ormerly belonged.
The church of St. Paolo fuori via Oftrenſe, at Rome, is ornamented with bronze
gates in baſſo relievo, ſaid to have been originally plated, and caſt at Conſtantinople in
1070, an intereſting ſpecimen of the ſtate of the arts at that period.
c The obeliſk in the piazza di Laterano, is 137 feet high, with hieroglyphics on its
four ſides, originally ſet up at Thebes by Ramiſes, king of Egypt, and removed to the
Circus maximus in Rome, by Conftantius. It weighed 460 tuns, and 629 pounds.
Five others are now ſeen in that city. That in the ſquare of St. Peter's, is the moſt per-
fect without hieroglyphics, brought from the Circus of Caracalla, on the Vatican hill.
It is 93 feet 6 inches high, and has never been fractured. None of thoſe at Rome are
equal to this at Conſtantinople in ſymmetrical proportion, being all of them too narrow at
the baſe. It likewiſe exceeds many of them in workmanſhip, though Pococke judges, froin
ſome of the loweſt figures being imperfect, that it was ſhortened when it was erected
licre.
68
Emperor preſiding at the games of the Hippodrome, repreſented in
four compartments. On the top was a globe of braſs.
In the centre of the circus were many fine columns and ſtatues,
of which none remain but the ſerpentine column. There is ſuffici-
ent reaſon to believe that it once ſupported the tripod of Delphos,
which ſtood in the forum of Arcadius, as both of them were brought
to his new city by Conſtantined. The three entwiſted bodies only
of the ſerpents now remain ; one of the heads were broken off by
Mahomet II. with a ſingle ſtroke of his battle-axe in proof of his ex-
The firſt compartment has the emperor, with his wife and two ſons, ſitting in ſtate.
2. As in the firſt receiving the homage of captive nations. 3. Emperor alone ſurveying
the games. 4. Emperor holding a wreath between his two fons, other attendants under
the ſame canopy. Around the friſe of the pedeſtal a repreſentation of the erection of the
obeliſk, and the mechaniſm uſed for that purpoſe.
INSCRIPTIONS.
KIONA TETPAIIAETPON. AEI. XOONI. KEIMENON AXOOC.
MOTNOC. ANACTHEAI ETAOCIOC BACIAETC.
TOAMHCAC TIPOKAOC EIIEKEKAETO KAI TOCOC ECTH.
KIIN HEAIOIC EN TPIAKONTA ATO.
Antholog. I. iv. c. xvii.
DIFFICILIS QVONDAM. DOMINIS. PARERE. SVPERBIS.
.
IVSSVS. ET. EXTINCTIS. PALMAM. PORTARE. TYRANNIS.
OMNIA. TII EODOSIO. CEDUNT. SOBOLIQVE. PEREYNI.
TERDENIS. SIC. VICTVS. EGO. DOMITVSQVE. DIEBVS.
. . .
IVDICE. SVB. PROCLO, SVPERAS. ELATVS. AD. AVRAS.
d From the three heads, water, wine, and milk, are ſaid to have flowed when placed
at Delphos, as emblematical of the divinity of Apollo.
Statues in the circus were Caftor and Pollux. Hercules in bronze by Lymachus.
The Caledonian Boar, Minerva, Diana. An Hyena and Wolf in bronze, brought by
Conſtantine from Antioch. Scylla and Charybdis; and of the emperors, Auguſtus, Dio-
clefian, Gratian, Valentinian. Theodofius, father and ſon, Juſtinian on horſeback, and
the four horſes now at Venice,
69
-
traordinary ſtrength; and the other two were taken away in 1700 ;
but the Turks made no inquiries after them. The brazen column“,
or coloſſus ſtructilis, was renewed by Conftantine Porphyrogenites,
and covered with plates of gilded bronze. It is 94 feet high, and
ſerved as the farther goal of the hippodrome. When its ornaments
were removed, ſo much force was uſed, that it now threatens a ſhort
duration. Connected with the hippodrome was the palace of Con-
ſtantine and his ſucceſſors, probably on the ſite of the moſque of Sul-
tan Ahmed. Under the farther part of the circus is a ciſtern raiſed
on arches to complete the level, many of which are ſtill perfect.
From various edifices in the hippodrome we are informed by Gyllius
that a large khan for merchants was built by Suleyman the
ſecond. No architectural fragments, like thoſe at Rome of the date
of the firſt emperors, can be now found throughout the whole city
undemoliſhed or unapplied by the Turks.
Moſt of the public ceremonies and proceſſions, in which the ful-
tan is included, are conducted in the Atmeydan. The turks ſtill ex-
hibit there a kind of military game they call Djirit. Two or more
combatants, mounted on ſpirited horſes, are armed with a white
wand of about four feet in length, which they dart at each other
with great violence. The ſkill in this exerciſe is ſhown in avoiding
the ſtroke, purſuing the adverſary in his retreat, checking their horſes
on a full gallop, or ſtooping from them to reach the djirit from the
ground. So encumbered with their flowing dreſs, and ſo enervated
by their mode of life, it is ſurpriſing with what agility they perform
c « TOTETPAITAEYPON ATMA. TIN METAPCION
XPONO POAPEN KONCTANTINOS NIN AESITOTHE.
ΟΡΩΜΑΝΟΣ ΠΛΙΣ ΔΟΞΑ ΤΗΣ ΣΚΗΠΤΟΥΚΙΑΣ
ΚΡΕΙΤΩΝ ΝΕΟΥΡΓΕΙ. ΤΗΣ ΠΛΑΙΙ ΘΕΩΡΙΑΣ
Ο ΓΑΡ ΚΟΛΟΣΣΟΣ ΘΑΜΒΟΣ ΕΝ ΤΗ ΡΟΔΩ
ΚΛΙ ΚΑΛΚΟΣ ΟΥΤΟΣ ΘΑΜΒΟΣ ΕΣΤΙΝ ΕΝΘΑΔΕ."
70
their evolutions, which appear equally dangerous and fatiguing:
All the young men of faſhion endeavour to cxcel in this amuſe-
ment, to which they are trained from their childhood, as a necef-
ſary accompliſhment. The preſent ſultan, before he grew corpulent,
is ſaid to have acquitted himſelf with adroitneſs and grace, which few
of his courtiers could exceed. Sultan Suleyman, the ſon of Orchan,
was killed at this exerciſe f.
The city of Conſtantine appears to have derived all its fplendour
from public edifices; and it was from the number of its churches,
theatres, palaces, baths, columns, and ſtatues, that it could offer
any pretenſion to the appellation of “ New Rome.”
The great founder left the ſtreets to the arrangement of chance,
and it is probable, that they were ſcarcely more regular than at pre-
fent. The Byzantine hiſtorians report the frequent and ſudden de.
vaftation of fire, which could not have taken place had not the
houſes been built of wood, or with as fragile materials as they now
are. With the moſt favourable ſituation that can be imagined, if
the accommodations and embelliſhment of European capitals were
adopted, Conſtantinople, under its Ottoman maſters, has fewer con-
veniences than the worſt of them; and all it can claim is a ſort of
gloomy magnificence in the vicinity of the great moſques, or as ap-
f Gibbon's R. H. v. 6. p. 287.
& Belon. Obferv. p. 162.
“ But to ſay ſomething of Conſtantinople in general, I think there is not in the
world any object that promiſeth ſo much afar off; and entered, that ſo deceiveth the ex-
pectation.” Sandys' Travels, p. 27.
There is an officer of police, whoſe fole buſineſs it is to ſee that the height of no
private houſe in Conſtantinople exceed twenty-ſix feet.
71
proached through the widely extended cemeteries". Upon the ſeven
hills, its ancient boaſt, are cluſtered an infinity of narrow lanes, ill
paved and filthy, as the only ſcavengers are packs of unowned
dogs of the wolf breed (for none are domeſticated), and vultures (Ak
Baba of the Turks, and called by them Mohammed's bird) which ſail
in the air all day, and at night perform this uſeful office. Amongtt
ſuch numbers of dogs, many of which periſh from hunger, it is truly
ſingular, that canine madneſs is ſcarcely known; but they are ſubject
to the plague, when it rages in the city.
Without conſidering the plague as abſolutely communicable by
contact only, it may be thought that the corrupt atmoſphere pro-
duced by ſuch accumulated filth in a hot climate would alone be the
fertile parent of that cruel diſeaſe, but the truth is, that fevers of the
putreſcent kind are the more rare.
The greater part of the night in many European capitals is little
diſcriminated from the broad day in the buſtle of crowded ſtreets, but
the laſt muezzin has ſcarcely called the hour of evening prayer be-
fore cach habitually fober muſulman retires from public notice, and
the reſort of thouſands during a long day, from ſun riſe to ſun ſet,
h We have no document to aſcertain, that the ſeven hills of Conſtantinople were
diſtinguiſhed, as thoſe at Rome, by particular names. The diſtricts or regions were four-
teen, in which were included the hills, and that of the ſeraglio point is called the firſt.
For this opinion, we have the authority of Gyllius, who follows that diviſion.
In point of ſituation, each of theſe ſucceeding the other in a regular increaſe of cle-
vation, ſtill diſtinctly obſervable from the harbour, had infinite advantage over thoſe at
Rome, even when free from the heaps of rubbiſh which have almoſt levelled ſome of
them.
Each of thoſe at Conſtantinople is crowned with innumerable domes of moſques or
baths, and completely covered with houſes, whilſt the Aventine, the Cælian, and the
Eſquiline hills, at Rome, are almoſt without habitations.
72
becomes an unoccupied ſpace, like a defert. One hour after ſun-ſet
every gate of the city is ſhut, and entrance ſtrictly prohibited.
The houſes of the opulent Turks are large, with the moſt con-
venient part appropriated as the harèm, which is uſually ſurrounded
with a court, be it ever ſo ſmall, having a fountain in the midſt.
Theſe apartments are remarkable for their neatneſs, and all the
accommodation that the climate and architecture will admit; for it
is here only that the poſſeſſor diſplays any expence in ornament, or
furniture. As to the houſes in general, they are mere comfortleſs
wooden boxes, cool in ſummer, but ill adapted to wet or cold wea-
ther, being full of unglazed windows, and without fire-places; in win-
ter ſupplied by carthen pans of charcoal, which ſuffocate whilſt they
warm you.
The ground floor is a continuation of the ſtreet, and the
ſtaircaſe a dirty ladder, frequently in darkneſs.
That ſuch a ſtillneſs ſhould reign in the crowded ſtreets of a ca-
pital, who ever has viſited thoſe of Europe, will obſerve with ſur-
priſe; there is no noiſe of carriages, and even “ the buſy haunts of
men" are ſcarcely different from the abode of ſilence.
Much of the romantic air which pervades the domeſtic habits of
the perfons deſcribed in the Arabian Night's Entertainments, parti-
cularly in inferior life, will be obſerved in paſſing through the ſtreets.
And we recur with additional pleaſure to a remembrance of the de-
light with which we at firſt peruſed them, in finding them authen-
tic portraits of every oriental nation.
Some years ago no Frank could walk in Conſtantinople without
the riſque of incurring inſult, and the merchants of Pera were uſually
protected by a janiſſary. At this time no moleſtation is to be feared,
at leaſt by a perſon who is prudent enough to give the upper hand to
73
a Turk. This favourable change has taken place only ſince the con-
cluſion of the war in 1774. Many victories in ſucceſſion had per-
fuaded them of their fuperiority over the Chriſtians, of whom they
have ſeveral millions of ſubjects; till at the time above mentioned
Prince Repnin, attended by ſix hundred ſoldiers, with their drawn
ſwords, paraded through the city, when he came to give them that
peace, which they had ſo humbly begged of the Ruſſians. This cir-
cumſtance has had a wonderful effect in reducing the inſolence and
ferocity of their national character.
Fires are ſo frequent that few months paſs without them, and
they are generally ſo furious, that whole diſtricts are laid in alhes.
Houſes are ſo ſoon re-erected, that the former appearance of the ſtreets
is fpeedily reſtored, and little alteration is ever made in their form.
Notice of a fire at Conſtantinople, or at Galata, is given by beating a
great drum from two high towers; the night watch then patrole
the ſtreets, ſtriking the pavement with their ſtaves ſhod with iron,
and crying out “Yangen var”—“ There is a fire,” naming the place.
The ſultan is then fummoned three times, and when the conflagra-
tion has laſted one hour he is forced to attend in perſon, and to
bring mules with him laden with piaſtres, which he diſtributes with
his own hands to the firemen, who are very inactive before his arri-
val. Theſe are armed againſt accidents in the ſame manner as they
are in London, and are equally expert and adventurous. Fires are
extinguiſhed by pulling down the adjoining houſes, for the engines
are very ſmall, and borne on the ſhoulders of two men.
The perfect reſignation with which a good muſulman ſees his
houſe conſumed by the flames, and himſelf reduced from affluence to
poverty, has been often and juſtly remarked by others; he exclaims
i In 1633 ſeventy thouſand houſes were burned, and in 1788 the conflagration was ſo
extenſive as to thrcaten the univerſal deſtruction of the city.
I
74
« Allah Karim"_" God is merciful,” without apparent emotion,
and has aſſured himſelf that the ſame providence which hath made
him
poor and abject, can once more reſtore him to wealth if it be
his fate. For the women, they have not the praiſe of ſuch philofo-
phy. They aſſemble in a groupe near the ſultan, and unmercifully
load him with the bittereſt revilings, particularizing his own crimes,
and the errors of his government, and charging him with the cauſe
of their preſent calamity. At ſuch rencounters no crowned head
need envy Sultan Selim his ſituation. As this is the only privileged
time of conveying the voice of the people to his ears, and as women
in Turkey ſay any thing with impunity, it is preſumed that many of
the fires are not accidental.
As a grand ſpectacle, detaching the idea of commiſeration of thc
calamity from the preſent view, if a volcanic eruption be excepted,
none can exceed a great fire at Conſtantinople. The houſes being
conſtructed with wood, and frequently communicating with maga-
zines, filled with combuſtible materials, a vaſt column of flame, of
the moſt laminous glow, riſes from the centre, which lighting up
the moſques, and contiguous cypreſs groves, produces an effect of
ſuperior magnificence. In other cities, where the buildings are of
ſtone, the flames are ſeen partially, or are overpowered by ſmoke.
The merchandize and trade of Conſtantinople are carried on
principally in the khans, bazars, and bezeſten, according to the
cuſtom of the caſt, each of which requires a ſummary deſcrip-
tion.
The khans
k
are ſpacious ſtructures, with quadrangles erected by
k The firſt khan was built by Ibrahim Khan, the viſier of Solyman I. who gave
them a generical name ſynonymous with “ hotel.”
75
the munificence of the ſultans, or ſome of the royal family, for the
public bcnefit. They are entirely ſurrounded by a cloiſter and colo-
nade, into which numerous cells open, generally repeated for three
ſtories; are built with ſtone and fire-proof. Here the mer-
chants from every part of the empire, who travel with caravans,
are received with accommodations for themſelves and their valuable
traffic.
In the bazars are affembled dealers of cach nation under the
Turkiſh government, who have ſmall ſhops in front, and a room be-
hind, for their wares. Theſe are very extenſive cloiſters of ſtone,
lofty and lighted by domes; are admirably adapted to the climate,
and in ſummer are extremely cool. One called the Miſr Chartſhè,
or Egyptian market, is ſet apart for the merchandize of Cairo,
chiefly minerals and drugs, and is a great curioſity for the natu-
ralift m.
Other quarters are occupied by the working jellewers, where
raw jewels may be advantageouſly purchaſed; and by the bookſel-
lers, who have each his aſſortment of Turkiſh, Arabic, and Perſian
MSS. of which they do not always know the value, but demand a
conſiderable price. The oriental ſcholar may here find MSS. equally
beautiful and rare, as ſince the civil commotions in Perſia, the moſt
elegant books, taken in plunder, have been ſent to Conſtantinople
for ſale, to avoid detection".
1 The great bazar was built by Mohammed II. in 1462.
Forſkaal has given a detail of them, with the current prices when he viſited Con-
ftantinople.
n Buſbequius, the author of ſome elegant Latin epiſtles concerning the Turks, was ſent
by the emperor Maximilian on an embaſſy to Conſtantinople. During his ſtay there,
76
The ſtaple articles of importation from England are cloth and
block tin, as the conſumption of both is very great. Engliſh watches,
prepared for the Levant market, are more in demand than thoſe
of other Frank nations, and are one of the firſt articles of luxury that
a Turk purchaſes or changes if he has money to ſpare.
The national character is here admirably diſcriminated, and to
inveſtigate it with ſucceſs no place offers ſuch opportunity as theſe
markets.
A ſtranger will wonder to ſee ſo many of their ſhops left open,
without a maſter or guard; but pilfering is not a Turkiſh vice.
One may
He ſhould be informed previouſly, that no article of commerce
has a ſtated price; bargains muſt be made, and the baſeſt impoſition
is counted fair gain. The Turk is fixed to his ſhop-board with his
legs under him for many hours, and never relaxes into civility with
his Frank cuſtomer, but from the hopes of advantage. One
venture to give him two thirds of his demand; but to thoſe of other
nations not more than half. The Greek, more pliant and prevaricat-
ing, praiſes his commodity beyond meaſure, and has generally to
congratulate himſelf upon having outwitted the moſt cautious dealer.
The Armenian, heavy and placid, is rouſed to animation only by the
money, which he can not withſtand. As for the Jew, every
where a Jew, he is more frequently employed as a broker, a buſineſs
ſight of
he purchaſed a manuſcript, Diofcorides, Pliny's Natural Hiſtory, and the Itinerary of a Ro-
man General of contemporary date, which are now preſented in the imperial library at
Vienna. My inquiries in the bazars for Greek MSS. were not attended with ſucceſs.
Many are ſaid to be diſperſed in the monaſteries, particularly at Mount Athos; thoſe I
have ſeen brought from thence were of the Greek fathers, or homilies; and I am inclin-
ed to think that a genuine copy of any of the ancient claſſics would be a liappy diſ-
overy.
77
which that people have had addreſs enough to engroſs; and ſome ac-
quit themſelves with honeſty and credit. Thoſe of the lower ſort are
walking auctioneers, who tramp over the bazars, and carry the goods
with them, vociferating the price laſt offered. Each of theſe na-
tions, which conſtitute the vaſt population of Conſtantinople, has a
different mode of covering the head, a circumſtance foon learned,
and which renders the groupes of figures ſufficiently amuſing, as it
breaks the ſameneſs of their other dreſs. The Armenians, Jews, and
the mechanical Greeks, uſually wear blue, which the Turks conſider
as a diſhonourable colour, and have their flippers of a dirty red
leather.
V
The common trades are diſpoſed, all of one kind, in ſingle
ſtreets. · Shoe-makers, furriers, and pipe-makers, with many others,
occupy each their diſtinct diſtrict, and are ſeldom found diſperſed, as
in our cities.
A room of very conſiderable dimenſions, is called the bezeſtèn, or
public exchange, where are collected ſecond-hand goods, which are
hawked about by the auctioneers. In another part are the ſarraffs,
or money changers, Armenians and Jews.
I
regret my incompetency to deſcribe the various mechanic arts
which are practiſed in the eaſt, and particularly by the Turks, ſo dif-
ferent from our own; and leave it to ſome future viſitant, well qua-
lified to give the hiſtory of their manufactures, and the divers modes
by which the ſame effect is produced, and the fame utenſils are
made.
The neceſſaries of life are well managed, and the ſhops of cooks,
confectioners, and fruiterers, are excellently ſtored, and ſerved with
neatneſs. For the greater part of the year, ſherbets with ice are
78
cried about the ſtreets, at a very cheap rate. The bakers exerciſe a
lucrative, but a dangerous trade, if they are not proof againſt temp-
tation to fraud. Their weights are examined at uncertain times,
and a common puniſhment on detection is nailing their car to the door-
poſt. Upon a complaint made to the late viſier Mehmet Melek
againſt a notorious cheat, he ordered him to be inſtantly hanged.
The maſter eſcaped, but the ſervant, a poor Greek, perfectly innocent,
was executed. It was remarked to a Turk, that this injuſtice was
foreign to the character for clemency, which Melek bore, when he
ſarcaſtically replied, “ The viſier had not yet breakfaſted.”
The coffee-houſes, which abound, are fitted up in an airy Chineſe
taſte, and curiouſly painted. Within, they are divided into parti-
tions or ſtages without ſeats, for the Turks fit as the taylors in Eng-
land. The reſort of all ranks to them is univerſal and conſtant;
and fome during the greater part of the day, which paſſes there,
conſume thirty or forty pipes, and as many cups of coffee, boiling
hot, thick, and without ſugar.
Beſide theſe, near the Oſmanie, are teriaki-hand", where (afioni)
opium is ſold ; and taken in gradation from ten to a hundred grains
in a day. Intoxication with this noxious drug is certainly leſs preva-
lent than we have been informed; and he who is entirely addicted
to it, is conſidered with as much pity or diſguſt as an inveteratė
fot is with us. The preparation of opium is made with ſeveral rich
fyrups, and inſpiffated juices, to render it palatable and leſs intoxi-
cating, and reſembles elder rob. It is either taken with a ſpoon, or
hardened into ſmall lozenges, ſtamped with the words “ Maſh allah,"
literally " the work of God.”
The Turks take opium as an intoxicant, or occaſionally under
Corrupted from the Greek Θεριακα.
79
an idea of its invigorating quality, when unuſual fatigue is to be en-
dured. The Tartar couriers, who travel with aſtoniſhing expedition,
generally furniſh themſelves with “ Maſh allàh."
“ Maſh allàh.” A leading cauſe
of its diſuſe is, that the prejudices reſpecting wine are daily relaxing,
which accounts for the ſcarcely credible quantity and univerſality
mentioned by old writers being unaccordant with modern practice.
The adminiſtration of juſtice in Conſtantinople is notoriouſly
corrupt. It is placed ſolely in the hands of the oulemah, or eccle-
ſiaſtical body, who are confirmed in their rapacity by being ſecured
from the interpoſition of the body politic, as they receive no ſalary
from the ſtate. In theſe two cauſes originates a ſyſtem of enormous
peculation and bribery, ſo that for the poor there is no redreſs.
Turkiſh juriſprudence profeſſes the implicit direction of the koràn,
but more attention is paid to the multèkah, or ſonhèt, containing
the traditional injunctions; after all, the intereſt or caprice of the
judge biaſſes the deciſion.
The rank of Turkiſh lawyers is the mufti, or deputy to the ſul-
tan; as kalife or oracle of the law, the kadilcſcars of Roumily and
Anadoly; ſupreme in their diſtinct diſtricts, mollahs, muſelims, and
kadies. Theſe hold their mekemehs, or halls of juſtice, where they
try criminals and hear cauſes, in which oral teſtimony always pre-
vails againſt written evidence. Threc MSS. of the Koran, the
Evangeliſts, and the Pentateuch, are kept by the 'kadies, who admi-
niſter oaths upon them, according to the religion of the perſon to be
ſworn.' Falſe witneſſes are eaſily procured; they frequent certain
coffce-houſes, where theſe infamous tranſactions are arranged. If
one of theſe wretches be too often detected, or has forfeited the in-
tereſted connivance of the judge, he is given over to thc puniſhment
of the law. Mounted on an aſs, with his arms and legs tied,
and his face toward the tail, he is led through the ſtreets and
80
bazàrs, where he is inſulted with every groſſneſs, and if a Turk fares
very ill.
It is truly remarkable, in ſo great a population, that criminal
cauſes do not occur more frequently. Murders are ſeldom heard of,
and happen amongſt the ſoldiers oftener than other deſcriptions of
people; they are certainly prevented by the prohibition of wearing
arms in the capital. If the murderer eſcape juſtice for twenty-four
hours, he is not amenable to the law; at leaſt, has a good chance of
evading its vengeance.
vengeance. Robberies are not frequent, excepting in the
great roads through diſtant provinces, where they are always
puniſhed with impalement. There is no place of public execution;
and when a criminal is condemned, he is led down the neareſt
ſtreet by the executioner, who is provided with a large nail and cord,
which he places over the door of any ſhop where he is not paid for
forbearance. The body is raiſed a few inches only above the
ground, and muſt be left untouched for three days. In inſtances of
decapitation, the more honourable puniſhment, it is expoſed as long
in the ſtreet, with the head under the arm, if a muſulman, but if a
rayah”, between the legs. So horrid a ſpectacle excites no emotion in
the mind of a Turk, for it is certain, that by no nation, be it as ſavage
may, is the life of a man fo lightly regarded as by them. This
is a diſguſting, but true ſketch of their laws and executive juſtice.
as it
Perſonal combat, unknown to the ancients, but fo univerſal in
modern Europe ſince the days of Chibaley, is not practiſed amongſt
the Turks, nor is aſſaſſination, the diſgrace of many nations, in any
degree frequent. Connections with women, the great cauſe of inve-
terate quarrels, are ſo arranged as to render interference with each
other almoſt impoſſible. Before marriage they are not ſeen by their
P A rayah is an Ottoman ſubject of any nation, liable to the haràdj or capitation tax.
81
lovers, and after only by their huſbands and near relatives. There is
likewiſe an inviolable point of honour between men reſpecting their
harems, and an avowed libertine would be baniſhed from ſociety.
Poiſon, ſecretly given, is the puniſhment he would probably in-
cur.
To another occaſion of perſonal provocation they are cqually
ſtrangers. Gaming is prohibited by the Mohammedan law, and as
cheſs is their favourite amuſement, their fingular proficiency is a
proof that the love of gain may not be the only inducement to excel.
Wagers, or anticipating the chances of any trial of ſkill or common
event, they can conſider as unlawful.
1
To the abſence of theſe powerful incitements to anger, and to
their national ſuavity of manners as confined to themſelves, may be
attributed much focial harmony, though with fewer examples of
diſintereſted friendſhip than amongſt us.
The Turk ſhews info-
lence or moroſeneſs to thoſe only whom his prejudices exclude from
intercourſe.
The Rammezan, or Turkiſh Lent, laſts for one complete moon,
and takes every month in the year, in rotation. No inſtitution
can be more ſtrictly or more generally obſerved; it enjoins perfect
abſtinence from ſun-riſe to fun-fet, from every kind of aliment, even
from water. Mohammed did not foreſee that coffee and tobacco
would become the chief luxury of his followers, and various were
the opinions reſpecting the legality of taking them in Rammezan;
which were finally determined in the negative. Theſe are indeed
penance to the labourer and mechanic, but to the opulent
only a pleaſing variety, for they ſleep all day, and in the evening
feaſt and make mcrry, as if they cxulted in cheating the prophet.
The only ſhow of mortification is a prohibition from entering
days of
M
82
the harem during the twelve hours of faſting. Every night of
this ſeaſon is fome appointed feaſt amongſt the officers of the
court.
Nor are the inferior orders deprived of their ſhare of relaxation;
for the ſhops of cooks and confectioners, and the coffee-houſes, are
unuſually decorated and frequented. There are exhibitions of low
humour, and the kara-guze, or puppet ſhow, repreſented by Chineſe
ſhades.
For the graver fort, moſt coffee-houſes retain a raccontatorè, or
profeſſed ſtory teller, who entertains a very attentive audience for
many hours. They relate eaſtern tales, or ſarcaſtic anecdotes of the
times, and are ſometimes engaged by government to treat on politics,
and to reconcile the people to any recent meaſure of the ſultan or
viſier. Their manner is very animated, and their recitation accom-
panied by much geſticulation. They have the fineſſe, when they
perceive the audience numerous, and deeply engaged, to defer the
ſequel of their ſtory. The nightly illuminations of every minareh in
the city, eſpecially thoſe of the imperial moſques, produce a very fin-
gular and ſplendid effect. Within each of theſe, the vaſt concaves of
the domes are lighted up by ſome hundred lamps of coloured glaſs;
and externally cords are thrown acroſs from one minareh to another,
and the lamps fantaſtically diſpoſed in letters and figures. I was not
more agreeably ſurpriſed by any thing I ſaw in Conſtantinople, than
the whole appearance of the firſt night in Rammezan.
LU
As an indulgence from the ſeverities of Lent, the Turks have their
Beyràm, and the Chriſtians their Eaſter. At this ſeaſon, thoſe of
every nation appear in new clothes, and exhibit all poſſible gaiety.
Places of public reſort are then particularly frequented, and the paf-
83
1
times and groupes, excepting in their dreſs, exactly reſemble an
Engliſh wake. The Turks are much delighted by a circular ſwing,
made by fixing a wheel on a high poſt, from which hang many
poles, with ſeats attached to them. I have ſeen ſeveral of theſe
bearded children taking this amuſement with great glee, and con-
traſted with the gravity of their habits nothing could be more ridi-
culous. The Greeks have an univerſal licence, dance through the
ſtreets to very rude muſic, and are in the zenith of their vivacity;
but the feſtivity of the Armenians, a ſaturnine race, ſeems to conſiſt
chiefly in being intoxicated, and jumping with the prepoſterous
activity of an elephant. In the Campo de' Morti, near Pera, ſo called
from being the cemetery of the Franks and Armenians, many of
theſe droll ſcenes may be then contemplated by an inveſtigator of
the preciſe traits of character which diſcriminate the maſs of all
nations.
The Turks have fumptuary laws, and habits peculiar to profef-
ſions. By the turban differing in ſize and ſhape every man is known;
and ſo numerous are theſe diſtinctions, that a dragoman, long con-
verſant with Conſtantinople, told me he knew not half of them.
The Emirs, real or pretended deſcendants from the prophet, are dif-
tinguiſhed by the green muſlin, the others wear white round a cap
of cloth, and the head is univerſally very cloſely ſhaven. In the tur-
bans of the oulemah there is a greater profuſion of muſlin, from ten
to twenty yards, which are proportionably larger, as the wigs of pro-
feſſional men were formerly. The military, as the janiſſaries, bof-
tandjis, and topjis, wear caps of the moſt uncouth ſhape and faſhion,
ſuch as defy defcription. The rayahs are known by a head-dreſs
called a kalpac, made of lamb-ſkin, and inimitably ugly, differing
entirely from a turban ; and ſometimes a famour, or black fur
cap,
which is principally worn by dragomen and phyſicians. In other
reſpects they are dreſſed as the Turks. Yellow ſlippers, or boots, are
84
indulged only to thoſe under ambaſſadorial protection, and are ani
cnvied diſtinction. When the preſent ſultan came to the throne, he
iſſued an edict that no unlicenſed rayah ſhould appear publicly in
yellow ſlippers. At that time he took great pleaſure in walking the
ſtreets in diſguiſe; when meeting an ill ſtarred Jew dreſſed contrary
to law, he ordered his head to be inſtantly ſtruck off. This was his
firſt act of ſeverity, which created moſt unfavourable conjectures, not
altogether confirmed by his ſubſequent reign.
The Turks of better rank, and the regular citizens, wear what is
called the long dreſs, with outer robes of fine cloth, ſhalloon, or pellices,
which are in general uſe for the greater part of the year, and commonly
of the moſt coſtly furs. They are ſeldom ſeen without a teſpi in their
hands ; it is a ſtring of ninty-nine beads correſponding with the
names of the Deity, which they carry as much for amuſement as
devotion. Hamid Ali, a late viſier, wore one of pearl, ſo perfect as
to be valued at 3000 l. ſterling.
The common people, eſpecially thoſe belonging to any military
corps, have a jacket richly ornamented with gold or ſilk twiſt, trow-
fers of cloth, which cloſe to the middle of the leg, the other part of
which is bare, and red ſlippers. Their great pride is to ſtick into
their girdles a pair of large horſe piſtols, a yataghàn or long knife, a
hanjiar or dagger, all profuſely inlaid with ſilver in a groteſque taſte,
which, with pouches for ammunition and tobacco, are extremely in-
commodious and ſeveral pounds weight. With theſe weapons they
frequently do miſchief, often from childiſhneſs, ſometimes from
intention. Such are ſeen in every town in the empire, excepting the
capital, who glory in their privilege, as no rayah is permitted to carry
arms.
By the laws of Iſlamiſm the Turks are forbidden veſſels and
85
utenſils of gold or ſilver, and are directed to great ſimplicity in every
habit of life. This injunction does not extend to women, whoſe
pride conſiſts in the number and coſtlineſs of their trinkets. The
chief luxury of the men is diſplayed in the number of their attend-
ants, and their horſes with ſuperb capariſons, often of embroidered
velvet, and plates of ſilver emboſſed and gilt. No rich man appears
in public, but on horſeback with a train of footmen, in any part of
Conſtantinople, the number of whom is unneceſſarily great, and much
of his income is expended in their daily maintenance, and new clothes
at the feaſt of Bayràm. Their wages are inconſiderable. No domeſ-
tic performs more than one office; this ferves the coffee, and that
hands the napkin, but no emergency can command any other fer-
vice.
The horſes of the Arab, or Turcoman breed, are eminently beau-
tiful, and are taught to prance under the perfect manêge of the rider
however infirm. Great expence likewiſe is laviſhed on the boats,
which are elegant in a high degree, carved, gilded, and lined with
rich cuſhions. They coſt from a hundred to a thouſand piaſtres
each. The rank of the owner is aſcertained by the number of oars,
and in dexterity or civility no watermen exceed the Turks.
Coaches are not in uſe, excepting that the clumſy, nondeſcipt
vehicles, which convey the ladies of great harems, can be ſo called.
In his pipe an opulent man is extremely ſumptuous ; the head muſt
be of pale amber, the ſtick of jaſmine wood, with the bark preſerved,
and the bowl of a delicate red clay, manufactured at Burgàs, in Ro-
melia, and highly ornamented. According to the dignity of the
ſmoker is the length of his pipe, often fix or ſeven feet, when it is
carried by two of his ſervants from place to place with much cere-
mony; and the bowl is ſupported by wheels, as an aid to ſupreme
indolence. In the ſummer, for greater coolneſs, the ſtem of the pipe
86
is covered with cotton or muſlin, and moiſtened with water. This
ſovereign recreation is not confined to the men ; the.ladies, eſpecially
thoſe advanced in life, partake of it largely, and, as a delicacy, they
mix the tobacco with frankincenſe, muſk, or aloes wood. The
ſultan alone abſtains from etiquette; as kalife, or repreſentative of
the prophet, he declines deciding, by his own practice, upon the
pro-
priety of any cuſtom, about which the law is not ſpecific and decla-
ratory
and are
Notwithſtanding their grave exterior, which might prepoſſeſs
foreigners with an idea of conccaling as much ſtupidity as ſenſe,
and apparently ſo ungenial with mirth or vivacity, the Turks, in fu-
perior life, of both ſexes, indulge a vein of ſarcaſtic humour,
not behind more poliſhed nations in the delicacy or ſeverity of their
repartees. Moſt gentlemen of the feraglio, or capital, have been
educated in their ſeminaries of learning, and are converſant with
oriental literature. Many of them quote the Perſian poets as hap-
pily, and refer to the Arabic philoſophers with as complete erudition,
as we can do to the Greek or Roman. The “ Leilat u alf leilah,
or Arabian Nights, firſt introduced into Europe by Monſieur Petit de
la Croix, are familiarly known by them, as well as the fables and
allegories of Pilpay and Lokman, from which fources they ſtore their
minds as well with ſentiment as expreſſion. To excel in colloquial
facility and elegance, is the firſt ambition of every cheliby, or man of
breeding
I repeat a ſpecimen of Turkiſh wit, related to me as having been
occaſioned by a recent circumſtance.
A man of rank, remarkably unpleaſing in his countenance and
figure, was married, according to cuſtom, without having firſt feen
her unveiled, to a lady whoſe pretenſions to perſonal attraction did
87
me.”
not exceed his own. On the morning after their marriage ſhe de-
manded of him, to whom of his friends ſhe might fhew her face
with freedom. “ Shew it,” ſaid he, " to all the world, but hide it from
Patience,” rejoined the lady. " I have none," returned the
bridegroom. « Ah !” ſaid ſhe, “I think you muſt have had a good
ſhare; for you have carried that abominable great noſe about with
you all your life-time.”
4
88
SECTION VI.
JANISSARIES, THEIR INSTITUTION AND PRESENT STATE-SKETCH
OF MILITARY DISCIPLINE AND ARRANGEMENT-BOSTANDJIS-
TOP DJIS-GREEK CHURCHES CONVERTED INTO MOSQUES-THE
FANAL- - FOUR HIGH OFFICES GIVEN TO GREEKS OF THE
PRINCES AND THEIR FAMILIES-DEPENDANCE OF THE GREEK
GENTRY.
The prætorian guards, the mamalukes, and the janiffaries, have been
celebrated amongſt foldiers for valour and military achievements;
and in the firſt ages of their inſtitution the laſt mentioned have
ſcarcely merited an inferior degree of praiſe.
1
Certain authors place the eſtabliſhment of theſe troops under
Oſmàn I. but others, more accurately, under Moràd II. They were
originally compoſed of the boys given in tribute from Macedonia,
Bulgaria, and the Greek provinces, who were ſent at a very early age,
cducated as muſulmans, and called hadjèm-oglàr, the children of
ſtrangers. The policy of the Porte led them in time to commute
this kind of tribute, when, that ſupply of the army having been re-
linquiſhed, the corps of janiſſaries was made up ſolely of young vo-
lunteers, who were obliged to undergo a noviciate, and to ſhew ſome
proof of valour, before they could be enrolled “. Theſe were called
yeni-tcherì (new ſoldiers), which the Franks have corrupted to ja-
niſſary. Their chief is the yenitchèr-aghà, a title likewiſe aſſumed
by the governor of a garriſon, in the abſence of a ſuperior officer.
The janiſſaries, whoſe indocility is as ancient as their inſtitution,
a Cantemir, p. 37-41. Gibbon, R. H. v. vi. p. 320, 4to.
89
are now diſperſed over every province of the empire. In time of
peace their pay is very ſmall, and varies according to the intereſt or
ſuppoſed merit of the individual; but in war they demand more, and
to be paid in advance. Their number is doubtleſs very great, and
has been very differently calculated.
differently calculated. As the title is hereditary, few
are found who, though practiſing mechanic arts, or engaged in trade,
are not enrolled in ſome odàh, or regiment of their choice, in order
to avail themſelves of privileges annexed to their order, which exempt
them from being baſtinadoed on the foot, but not on the back, and
reſerve to them the honour of being ſtrangled when they are con-
demned to die. There are a hundred and one legions of janiſſaries,
and the ſultan is enrolled at the head of the firſt, and on ſtated days
receives his
pay
in the ſecond court of the feraglio, when they are
fed with pilàv from the imperial kitchen. The number of each re-
giment is not regulated, as volunteers are admitted to any extent;
and their commanders are only leſs ignorant of tactics and military
diſcipline than the common ſoldier.
In analyſing the body of janiffaries they ſeem more reſemblant of
peaceful citizens than deſigned as the tutelary guardians of the empire.
Each on his admiſſion, and during his youth, is forced to be the ſcul-
lion and valet of his ortàh, or barrack-chamber; the noviciates are com-
manded by a corporal, whom they obey implicitly and in ſilence, as a
younger brother works in a convent without replying to his ſuperior.
They wear a girdle of leather, with two large plates of copper placed
before; they have the care of the kettles, and diſtribute the meſs.
From this ſervice they are freed as ſoon as their muſtachios are
grown. The ſymbol which diſtinguiſhes the odàh to which they
belong is marked on their naked arm, which being blown with
gun-
powder, can never be effaced. The firſt bears a creſcent; others
have groteſque figures like animals, as the lion, or rhinoceros; the
thirty-firſt has the anchor, and is employed in the ſea ſervice. This
N
90
1
laſt is the moſt famous; for when one ſoldier praiſes another, he
ſtyles him “ otoòz bir," one of the thirty-firſt.
Their ſenſe of military honour does not exert itſelf to preſerve
their colours, but the greateſt calamity that can befall a regiment is
the loſs of their kettles; and to remedy this calamity, they have two
ſets of cooking utenſils. When both are taken by the enemy, the
regiment is broken, and a new one formed, to whom new kettles are
given. The Ruſſians never ſhocked them ſo much as during the laſt
war, when having ſeized their camp equipage, they uſed their kettles
in the preſence of the Turkiſh captives, who were fcandaliſed by ſuch
a profanation.
On days of gala the janiſſaries wear a large felt cap, certainly of
Egyptian invention, with a ſquare piece falling down behind and co-
vering half their back; in front is a ſocket of copper, originally in-
tended to carry feathers, which they bore in honour of any ſignal feat
in war, but lately to hold a wooden ſpoon for their pilàv; for a good
janiſſary conſiders his ſpoon to be as military an accoutrement as an
European would his ſword or bayonet. Although they are eſteemed
the beſt infantry in the empire, thoſe who are rich enough to pro-
vide horſes are diſpenſed with marching on foot, without quitting
their
company,
which confuſion naturally produces extreme diſorder.
When on duty in the capital they are unarmed, and carry only a
large walking-ſtick as a badge of their office.
The chief of the janiſſaries enjoys great credit at the Porte; and
when the body at large were more formidable to the ſultan than at
preſent, it was thought expedient to prevent his being too popular
with them, by various intrigues. As the ſultan appoints and
changes him at pleaſure, leſs danger is to be apprehended from his
influence.
91
The janiſſaries form fo great a number of the inhabitants of Con-
ftantinople, and are ſo different both in diſcipline and habits of life
from others diſperſed over the provinces, that to deſcribe them dif-
tinctly appeared neceſſary. True it is, that ſo enfeebled as they are
by a certain deſcription of luxury, ſo corrupted by eaſe and licentiouſ-
neſs, and ſo lapſed from their former auſterity and ſimplicity of man-
ners, their degeneracy becomes more apparent contraſted with their
carlier fame, and they no longer are animated by that ſpirit which
once could lead them in the van of victory from the Euphrates to
the Danube.
The ſubjoined ſketch of their march to the field and their con-
duct in battle, is the reſult of many converſations on the ſubject with
an Engliſh gentleman, who ſerved the greater part of thirty years in
the Turkiſh army.
The ſpahis form the cavalry, divided into fixteen legions; they
enjoy lands under the title of zaìm, or ficfs, for the ſervice of bring-
ing ſo many horſemen perfectly equipped into the field. They re-
linquiſh their kettles with leſs reluctance than their ſtandards, but
are equally ignorant of tactics. The chief of the cannoneers has the
command of ſome thouſands: their artillery is ſo heavy as to require
twenty horſes, or thirty buffaloes, to draw it, and is foon diſmounted
by the rapid fire of the enemy. The bombardiers are under the ſame
regulation as the ſpahìs, and were equally ignorant. The volunteers,
both horſe and foot, compoſe many corps, commanded by officers of
their own choice; they receive neither pay nor maintenance till they
join the army: upon their arrival they are entitled to the fame
pay
as the janiſſaries, and ſhare the plunder, which is the ſole motive
with them for enlifting under the ſtandard. The Turks have no
uniforms; the turban is the ſole diſtinction in the army, as well as
in
every rank in ſociety. The ſultan does not furniſh the troops with
92
clothing, excepting when a defeat makes a number of recruits necef-
fary, when the Porte gives money; but generally each officer and
ſoldier is well or ill dreſſed according to his private wealth, and carry
arms more or leſs handſome, without the leaſt regard to order or
uniformity. The luxury of the Turks is conſpicuous in their horſe fur-
niture of ſilver, or ſilver gilt; their guns and piſtols are mounted with
the ſame, and their daggers are enriched with jewels. Their tents
are magnificent: the viſier's pavilion is covered with cloth of gold,
with decp fringe of immenſe coſt. Their habits are of fine cloth or
ſtuff; and when they marched to the laſt war, the dreſs of a common
foldier was of more value than that of a Ruſſian field-officer.
When the grand viſier commands the army, which he is obliged
to do whatever be his military abilities, each påfha ſelects from the
janiſſaries thoſe who are beſt prepared for a campaign; they are then
regiſtered, and forage provided till they reach their place of deſtina-
tion. The companies depend on their commanders for number and
force. Their flowing dreſſes impede their march, and the weight of
arms oppreſſes them. They have uſually a fuſil flung acroſs their
ſhoulders; a fabre, a dagger, and a pair of piſtols, with a cartouch, in
their girdle.
The Aſiatic troops are cavalry, excepting on the ſhores of the
Black ſea, which are infantry only. Syria, Diàr bekir, and the dif-
tricts of the Euphrates, produce excellent horſes of the Arab kind,
which are ſpirited and active, yet unable to break the line of the
heavy and well diſciplined Germans. Amongſt the baggage of a
Turkiſlı camp the tents and the kettles only are included. The fol-
diers in common with their officers take the field with a ſingic ſhirt,
and when waſhed, they wait with patience till the ſun has dried it.
They have waggons drawn by two buffaloes to convey their ammu-
nition and proviſions. The troops moſt in eſteem are the Boſniàcs :
93
for the janiſſaries of Conſtantinople, enervated by luxury and weakened
by indolence, are generally leſs able to ſupport fatigue; they are like-
wiſe the moſt adroit deſerters in the army, as the means taken to
prevent it are ſo ineffectual, and they haſten back to their families if
the plunder does not anſwer their expectation.
To prevent deſertion guards are placed on the routes, who ſuffer
none to paſs but to the camp, and none to return but with the orders
of the commander in chief. The Turks diſdain to fortify their
camps ; they pitch their tents, without regularity, round the pavilion
of the viſier, or their chiefs, and chooſe a ſpot as near as poſſible to a
river, or otherwiſe commodious.
The grand viſier has always a camp peculiar to himſelf, the
troops of which are immediately under his command. The aghà of
the janiſſaries has another, and the artillery have a third, at an equal
diſtance between both, ſo that the whole army is divided into three
encampments; and when they are forced to retreat, they are entirely
defeated, without the reſource of a camp properly intrenched. The
army forms neither into a line nor columns, either to ſecure them-
ſelves from ſurpriſes, or to facilitate their march into an enemy's
country. Thoſe who exerciſe any trade are ſure to get forward to
fet
up their ſhops, which they occupy as in a town; ſo that a camp
is rather a fair of artiſans, than an army of foldiers. The place of
encampment being fixed, each ſoldier marches faſt or ſlow as he
pleaſes, without immediately following his chief or colours, which
are ſometimes almoſt deſerted. The day's march feldom exceeds
fix leagues or hours, which they make at once, without halting,
or proceed and reſt as they pleaſe. Woe to the villages through
which they paſs, where the inhabitants, eſpecially Chriſtians, are
abandoned to every kind of rapine and violence, which the Turk-
iſh ſoldiers purſue without bounds, particularly in Moldavia and
94
1
Wallachia. The commiſſaries of forage precede the march, and con-
tent themſelves with iſſuing their orders to the villages and diſtricts
to ſend ſupplies, which arriving tardily, a dearth ſometimes enſues.
All the ammunition carried by carts drawn by two buffaloes is packed
up in ſmall quantities, on account of the difficulty of the route and
the total neglect of fixing regular relays of corn and proviſion. It is
ſufficient to announce that the army is on the march to all the vil-
lages, and no other precaution is taken to provide neceſſary ſubſiſt-
ence. The ration of bread is diſtributed daily to each ſoldier, every
morning mcat and vegetables, and twice a week rice and lard to
make pilav, are given them. Upon long or forced marches they have
biſcuit inſtead of bread; but the exact quantity depends upon dearth
or plenty. When they have advanced within a few days march of
the enemy's lines, the viſier appoints a lieutenant, whom he ſends
forward with ſufficient force to reconnoitre or engage them. This
plan of dividing the army is always diſadvantageous; for the ad-
vanced guard, too diſtant from head quarters for ſuccour, it never
fails, if they are defeated, that they retreat in the greateſt diſorder,
and ſpread alarm through the whole camp of the grand viſier, who,
ſecing no other means of ſaving the remainder of his forces, takes to
precipitate flight, as it frequently happened during the laſt war. In
theſe retreats they plunder and deſtroy each other; and at Matchin,
near Ibräil, on the Danube, the military cheſt and pavilion of the
grand viſier were rifled by his own ſoldiers, and he dared not make
inquiry, or inflict puniſhment.
Although perſonal bravery cannot be denied to the Turks, we
ſhould recollect the manner in which they mutually encourage each
other, by aſſurances that they are purſuing the path of truth, and
that the Chriſtians know only forcery and inchantment, to faſcinate
them and draw them into ambuſcade ; ſo that when they ſee a ſingle
Chriſtian, ten Turks ought to fall upon him, for fear that the other
1
95
Chriſtians, whom an evil ſpirit renders inviſible, ſhould kill them all
at once. I know not if all the Turks think ſo, but it is certainly a
popular opinion. A thouſand Ruſſians were never encountered by
an equal force; and in every ſkirmiſh with the Auſtrians they de-
clined
engagement, excepting that they were three or four times
more numerous. At Shumblàh, during the laſt war, 80,000 Turks
fled from 12,000 Ruſſians.
The Albanians, who are good troops, have acquired the reputation
of being always the firſt in the attack, and are conſidered as the forlorn
hope; in ſome inſtances they have ſhrunk from that honour, as in
moſt they would incur the riſk of being deſerted by the reſt of the
army, and abandoned to their fate.
The Turks have till lately refuſed to ſubject themſelves to military
tactics which might check their impetuoſity. The infantry is not
divided into battalions, nor the cavalry into ſquadrons, and they form
no line. The chiefs give the command, and carry the ſtandards ;
they are the firſt to attack. The cry of war is allàh! which inſpires
them with courage, and their enemies with terror. There is no in-
ſtrument to give the charge, or to found the retreat. Their fury
drives them within the enemy's lines, which diſadvantage occaſions
their being taken. Whilſt their artillery fires almoſt at random, the
cavalry, with that velocity which always diſtinguiſhes them, and the
infantry with that fury which they exert till the moment of being
defeated, fall into the enemy's hands, when the panic becomes uni-
verſal, and the Turks complete their own overthrow, being unuſed
to rally; and their camp, open on all fides, offers no aſylum after
the loſs of the day. When the Turks were formerly victorious, the
lot of the priſoners was lamentable, for they were loaded with chains,
cruelly inſulted, and devoted either to ſlavery or death: but in the
laſt war the expediency of exchanging them introduced better treat-
96
ment. The Turks are very eaſy with reſpect to fortifying their fron-
tier towns. Religious obſervers of treaties in the quiet of peace, they
never think of making preparations for another war, whilſt they con-
ſider themſelves as moving batteries, more able to reſiſt the enemy
than the firmeſt baſtions. They have no regularly fortified towns,
excepting thoſe on the banks of the Save and Danube, which are the
works of French engineers, and fome of the old Greek or Genoeſe
caſtles; for they are as little verſed in the art of fortifying a town
as in defending it. Military duty is performed without any regu-
larity; and the ſentinels paſs more of their time in ſmoking with the
guard than on their poſt.
There is another deſcription of ſoldiers, confined to Conſtanti-
nople, called boſtandjis, literally " gardeners," who are at preſent the
fultan's body guard, and ſeveral thouſands in number. Originally
they were few, and employed in the menial offices of the ſeraglio;
but it has been thought politic to give them ſuperior rank and pay,
and to increaſe them, ſo that by their number and perſonal attach-
ment to the ſultan they might be a conſtant check on the janiffaries.
Their commander, the boſtandjì baſhi, has the civil juriſdiction of
the feraglio, and the populous villages on either ſide the Boſporus.
That branch of police which reſpects unfortunate women is peculiar
to him, and exerciſed, as I have before deſcribed, with unjuſtifiable
ſeverity. They have likewiſe the conduct of the imperial barge
whenever proceſſions are made by ſea. The topdjìs, or cannoneers,
about 10,000 men, inhabit the new caſernes at Tophanah, and are
trained to military exerciſe and tactics by European officers, chiefly
French and Swedes. Hitherto they have not ſhewn much tracta-
bility. When they exerciſe the battery guns they do not neglect to
charge them with ball cartridges, and from a window at Pera I have
ſeen many ſhots bounding and ſmoking in the ſea, to the infinite peril
of the boats that were paſſing and repaſſing to the harbour, or city.
97
According to the right of conquerors, the Turks converted many
of the Greek churches, which were either ſpacious or beautiful, to
the celebration of their own forms of worſhip. Many of theſe con-
tained marble embelliſhments, collected from the ancient temples ',
and had domes ſpread with rich moſaic, which, as applied to ceilings,
was probably the invention of the Greeks in the middle
ages.
The
Byzantine hiſtory ſpeaks of ſeveral, in terms of the higheſt approba-
b Hiſtorians of taſte lament the removal of ſo many columns and ſtatues from Romc
by Conſtantine, in his ardour for embelliſhing his new city. Conſtantius II. in 655 camo
from Conſtantinople to Rome, and his viſit to that declining capital was that of a predatory
enemy. He began to deſtroy the pantheon, and took off the ſilver and bronze that deco-
rated the vault, and the plates of braſs from the rotunda, which were tranſported to Syra-
cuſc. Rome loſt much, but Conſtantinople gained nothing; for the Saracens becoming
ſoon afterward maſters of Sicily, they took away the rich ſpoils which had been depoſited
there by Conſtantius.
c Du Cange (Conftantinop. Chriſtiana) has enumerated, from theſe writers, who were
chiefly monks, a hundred and one churches dedicated to faints, and a hundred and four to
martyrs. He ſpecifies, by engravings from ancient illuminations, the moſaic in thoſe of
the Paraſkeve, St. Stephen, and Sts. Baſtian and Gregory, with the names curiouſly placed
on the right ſide of each portrait.
Α Γ
T P
I E
ог
со
P
I
It
may
be difficult to aſcertain whether the art of moſaic, as applied to ceilings, ori-
ginated at Rome or Conftantinople; but it is certain that it flouriſhed in both places during
the firſt centuries of the church.
At Rome fome fine ſpecimens are preſerved. The moſt ancient is in the church of
St. Paul fuori delle mura, placed there by Pope Leo I. in the fifth century; and in that
of Sts. Cofino and Damianus, about fifty years after. But in the thirteenth century the
art appears to have gained its zenith. The moſt celebrated muſaiſt, as they are called, of
his day was Giacomo Turrita, a Franciſcan monk, who finiſhed the dome of the Baptiſtery
at Florence in 1225, and ſuperintended, at leaſt, many ſimilar works in Rome, as thoſe in
0
98
tion, of which nothing remains. Of thoſe now ſeen, the moſt per-
fect are the church of St. John Studius, built by Leo I. containing
many Corinthian columns of ſerpentine marble, that on the fourth
hill' by Anaſtaſius I. dedicated to Chriſt and the twelve apoſtles,
which has four cupolas. The emperor is repreſented in moſaic as
offering an exact model of the church to Chriſt; and in the others
are portraits of the apoſtles. The walls are incruſted with fine mar-
bles, and the whole extremely perfect. St. John the Baptiſt’s was
once St. Phocas; it was reſtored by the emperor Heraclius, and is
now the ſultan's menagerie. Belon mentions with wonder that in
his time a lion was chained to each of the pillars. Near the Adria-
nople gate ſtands the church of All Saints, originally the Patriarchal,
which has four large domes. In different parts of the city others
may be traced, which are leſs remarkable, exhibiting, however, cu-
rious ſpecimens of the lower Greek architecture.
A diſtrict of Conſtantinople, now called the Fanàl, is appro-
priated, though not excluſively, to the Greek nation; in which, ſince
the poſſeſſion of the Turks, the noble families and their dependants
have in a great meaſure reſided. Whilſt the brave Conſtantine was
defending the gate of St. Romanus, as a forlorn hope, others of the
the church of St. John Lateran, and the chapel of Sts. Ruffina and Seconda, adjoining to
the Baptiſtery. Thoſe by Ghiotto in the veſtibule at St. Peter's are ſtill finer. In the
fixteenth century, Franciſco Zucchi and Ceſare Nebbia completed the dome. Many of
their predeceſſors, who had eſtabliſhed a ſchool of the art of moſaic in the north of Italy,
and had embelliſhed the ſplendid churches of Orvietto, Sienna, and others, during four
hundred years, are enumerated by Vafari. The gradual perfection to which they had at-
tained is diſplayed more particularly in the moſaics over the altars in St. Peter's, copied
from and rivalling the works of the firſt maſters, the chief of which were done by Pietro
Paolo Chriſtofari.
I am however inclined to think, that the Greeks carried the art of moſaic to Rome,
and that the dome of S. Sophia, finillied about 575, is more modern than other ſpecimens
remaining at Conſtantinople.
99
1
L
beſieged, either from cowardice or deſpair, made terms with the
conquerors, and opened the gate of the Phenàr for their admiſſion.
From that circumſtance they obtained from Mohammed II. the
neighbouring quarter, with certain immunities; and as the preſent d
Patriarchal church is ſituate in the centre, the neceſſary attendance
of the patriarch and twelve ſynodal biſhops, with the archondès, or
princes, have rendered it populous. In former times it was much
more ſo; for moſt of the latter deſcription have now houſes at
Koorootchefmè and Arnaoòt keuy, on the canal. Whilſt the total
population of the Greeks amounts to 100,000, that of the Fanàl does
not exceed 2,500. Notwithſtanding, it is ſtill that place in the
whole empire, where only the character of thoſe in ſuperior life can
be learned; where their manners are more poliſhed, their informa-
tion more extended, and their language more pure.
Infinite as are the corruptions of the modern colloquial Greek,
many will be found, amongſt the inhabitants of the Fanàl, who ſpeak
it with comparative purity, and pride themſelves on adopting the
more claſſical phraſes and pronunciation of the mother tongue. The
teſt of correctneſs in ſpeaking, is the rejection of Turkiſh or Italian
words, and the frequent uſe of thoſe found in the ancient, at leaſt
in the Byzantine authors.
The Ottoman government has, for ſome ages paſt, conceded four
high poſts to the Greeks of rank, who, as repreſentatives of the an-
cient nobility of the empire, retain the title of prince. The provinces
of Moldavia and Wallachia, the office of chief interpreter to the
Porte, and the patriarchate of Conſtantinople, are the ſummit of their
ambition, and the greateſt honour and emolument that a ſubject
1 The church allowed to the Greeks, as the Patriarchal, by Mohammed II. was that
of the Bleſſed Virgin. Smith, p. 50.
100
can enjoy. As to the two former, they are held only at the pleaſure
of the ſultan, and are reclaimed in a few years, being uſually be-
ſtowed on the third, in remuneration of his ſervices. The laſt is
always fimonaically procured; and as venality is ſcarcely conccaled
in tranſactions with the Porte, he who propoſes the beſt terms has
the beſt chance of ſucceſs.
After the taking of Conſtantinople by Mohammed II. he conti-
nued, to the firſt patriarch, the ſame preſent which the Greek em-
perors had been accuſtomed to make, a paſtoral ſtaff, a white horſe,
and four hundred ducats in gold. He left ample revenues to the
Greek church, and the maintenance of its clergy, which they have
gradually facrificed to their inconſtancy, their ambition, and their
private jealouſy. The firſt patriarchs were frequently fupplanted by
the metropolitans, who rivalled them. Theſe ſent their friends to
the Porte, with offers to fill the ſtations at a leſs expence than thoſe
who then held them. Similar repreſentations were likewiſe made
reſpecting the inferior preferments in the church. The Porte diſco-
vering that money might be ſaved without breach of promiſe, allowed
them to elect whom they thought competent, and to him the impe-
rial licence was granted. But ſhould another clandeſtinely offer to
accept the appointment at a lower ſalary, he was ſurely preferred.
In fact, by theſe bargains, made in oppoſition to each other, the dig-
nity is diminiſhed, and the revenues in as great a proportion ; for he
that would be patriarch, muſt offer to be content with leſs than his
competitors. The modern plan of ſimony is by impeaching the
preſent patriarch of offences or unworthineſs, for which pretexts are
never deficient, and to bribe the Porte to attend to the remonftrance.
I have been credibly informed that the whole revenue, collected by
contribution from the dioceſes, fees for abſolution, malediction,
maſſes, and compounding of religious penalties, does not exceed
3000l. a year; but this admits a latitude of exception in favour of
101
caſual and unavowed reſources of income. His influence with the
Porte is very extenſive, as far as his own nation is concerned. His
memorials are never denied, and he can, in fact, command the death,
the exile, impriſonment for life, depoſition from offices, or pecuniary
fine, of any Greek he may be inclined to puniſh with rigour, or who
has treated his authority with contempt.
The eaſtern church attaches no idea of perſonal ſanctity or in-
fallibility to their ſupreme head, although he bears the ſtyle of
the thirteenth apoſtle. The other three patriarchs, of Antioch, Je-
ruſalem, and Alexandria, are by his appointment, and in a certain
degree dependant upon him. He is not always of noble connection,
but frequently
, procures his ſtation by private intereſt with the lead-
ing family. In the preſent inſtance, Hieraſymos Petroò, of the iſland
of Cyprus, originally a ſchoolmaſter, having been ſucceſſively biſhop
of Patras and Dercon, became patriarch in 1793, and aſſumed, as in
the Roman church, the pontifical name of Ippolitos.
Although the renowned names of Comneni and Palcologi no
longer exiſt, they are yet claimed by conſanguinity; and ſeveral of
thoſe families, who are now the principal of the Greeks, can boaſt,
with a certain degree of preciſion, a lineal deſcent from, or agnation
to them.
The fertile provinces of Moldavia and Wallachia are now held by
the chiefs of two powerful families of the Fanàl, Callimachì and
Moroozì. The former was drogomanº to the Porte, and appointed
in 1795; the latter having officiated in that capacity at the peace of
Seftovia, concluded in 1792 between the Turks and Imperialiſts, was
• The term “ drogoman" is a Frank corruption from the Turkiſh “ terdji-man,”
which fignifies interpreter.
1
102
fo rewarded for his ſingular ability, in the following year. He dif-
covers in his government more patriotiſm than his predeceſſors, many
of whom have been facrificed to their treachery or avarice; and his
people, inured to tyranny, experience unuſual clemency. As uſeful
novelties he has eſtabliſhed a preſs, a manufactory of cloth, and a re-
gular poſt through his territory. His father was hoſpodar of Molda-
via, and his education has been in courts, where he acquired that
fineſſe and political acuteneſs to which he owes his preſent advance-
ment, and by which he has gained more popularity and fairer prof-
pects of ſecurity than almoſt any other.
Some notice of the great families amongſt the Greeks, who oc-
caſionally ſhare theſe emoluments, may be allowed me as a pardonable
digreſſion. Conſidering that the whole character and importance of
that fallen nation is concentered in a few individuals, and their im-
mediate relatives, the ſubject becomes more intereſting. Conteſts of
implacable jealouſy, conducted by infinite intrigue, continually dif-
ſtract them; and the animoſity between the houſes of “ Montagu
and Capulet" is renewed in the Fanàl.
Alexander Moroozi, the preſent hoſpodar of Wallachia, has two
brothers; the elder of whom is his repreſentative at the Porte. The
younger poſſeſſes uncommon talents, and has been twice appointed
drogoman to the grand viſier, which office he now holds; and has
deſervedly obtained a very decided influence with the rulers of the
preſent cabinet. No family enjoys ſo great a degree of favour, or by
prevalence of merit is more likely to retain it for a conſiderable timef.
f As a confirmation of the extreme inſtability of the favour of the Porte, we are in-
formed, while theſe pages are printing, that the Moroozi family is involved with Ratib
Effendi, their patron, in diſgrace, upon account of their ſuſpected attachment to a ſyſtem of
innovation. The Ipſilandi family is once more in favour.
103
Callimachì, who ſuperſeded Moroozi in 1794, as drogoman, in
leſs than a year took place of Prince Soozò in the government of
Moldavia. His family are young, and his connections fewer than
thoſe of others.
Of the Ipſilandi, the preſent chief has been twice prince of
Moldavia, and once of Wallachia. He was taken priſoner by the
Auſtrians in the laſt war, liberated at the peace, and then baniſhed
to the iſland of Rhodes, from whence he has been ſince recalled.
His ſon is the moſt accompliſhed and amiable of the modern Greek
nobility. Verſed not only in Oriental learning, he has acquired a
critical knowledge of the claſſics, and European languages. Should
he enjoy future advancement, he will probably exhibit a rare cha-
racter amongſt his countrymen, that of a ſcholar and a promoter of
literature.
To ſeveral princes of the houſe of Mavro Kordato that name is
truly appropriate. When hoſpodar of Moldavia the preſent repre-
ſentative patroniſed ſeveral literati, by whom a dictionary of Romeikà
(or modern Greek), French, and Italian, was compoſed, in three
volumes quarto. A grammar is prefixed, which is the beſt attempt
to reduce that language to ſyſtem, and to analyze its formation.
Several of the moſt approved of the Italian and French comedies and
novels have been tranſlated under his auſpices, and printed either at
Venice or Vienna. Excepting ſmall religious tracts, the modern
Greeks poſſeſſed no books in their own language, till this plan was
adopted a few years ſince, which has circulated literature, confined
as the ſubjects are, throughout the Turkiſh empire, fo extenſively as
to form an article of commerce. As to much original compoſition, it
will be ſought for in vain. Amongſt the higher rank of Greeks,
ſome of more liberal education or elegant turn of mind apply
themſelves to poetry: theſe pieces are in manuſcript, and com-
104
municated only to a few; for as yet no collection of them has been
publiſhed.
.
To cach of theſe diſtinguiſhed houſes many ſubordinate families,
who conſtitute the Greek gentry, are attached by intereſt or conſan-
guinity. During the zenith of power, the firſt object, both of the
prince and his dependants, is to amaſs wealth, not always by the moſt
juſtifiable meaſures. With that confolation they remove from their
ſhadow of royalty to luxurious retirement or more ſplendid habits of
domeſtic life in the Fanal, or on the delightful ſhores of the Boſporus.
Permitted to enjoy no revenue from the cultivation of lands, they
place out their money with religious or mercantile communities
(ſeldom lending to individuals), at an annual intereſt advancing from
fix to twelve per cent. With ſuch an income, according to the de-
gree of acquired wealth, they maintain the dignity of their ſeveral
ranks. When the original fund is exhauſted by gradual waſte, or
ſudden calamity, their ſituation is cmbittered by many confiderations ;
and perhaps by none is the ceaſeleſs conflict between poverty and pride
more ſeverely felt. Should the ſucceſſion to the principalities be re-
moved, and probably for a long period, from their particular patron,
they are induced to accept of employments under the Turkiſh go-
vernment, allured by the opportunity of growing rich, with a moral
certainty that in proportion as they indulge their avarice their lives
are hazarded. Theſe obſervations apply to the Greeks, whoſe family
pretenſions or ill-directed pride prevent their entering into commercial
engagements. The acuteneſs and induſtry which ſome of that na-
tion Now in conducting the traffic of the country (for trade on an
ample or liberal ſcale neither their own genius nor other circum-
ſtances will allow) are frequently ſucceſsful. In competition with
Armenians or Jews, they exhibit ſuperior addreſs, but owing to many
cauſes, which do not neceſſarily reſult from each other, the Turks
treat them with leſs confidence in mercantile tranſactions.
1
105
The capitation varies in three degrees, from four to thirteen pi-
aſtres a year, nor are the nobility liable to any other perſonal tax.
From this ſtatement it might be at firſt ſuppoſed that no conquered
ſubjects contribute ſo little to the exigencies of their ſtate as the
Greeks; but individuals frequently ſuffer greatly in their property,
without redreſs. A Turk will ſometimes prefer an unjuſt demand as
a debt, for the payment of which he ſues the Greek before the kady,
adduces the teſtimony of hired witneſſes, and obtains a deciſion in his
own favour, excepting that the defendant has ſecured the judge by a
bribe, bearing a proportion to the ſum in diſpute. In either caſe the
extortion is great; and they call ſuch a tranſaction, which is perpe-
tually happening, an “ avanìa.”
Degraded as the modern Greeks are in the political ſcale of Eu-
rope, no people are more apparently anxious with reſpect to pending
tranſactions. Credulous in the extreme, or ingenious in inventing
circumſtances, the current news engroſſes every converſation, and the
gazette, publiſhed in Greek at Vienna, their grand oracle, is read or
repeated with the greateſt avidity.
P
106
SECTION VII.
TIIE PLAGUE-FOUNTAINSMAQUEDUCT OF VALENS---ANCIENT
CISTERNS BATHS COLUMNS ESKI SERAI PALACES OF
GREEK EMPERORS-VILLAGE OF EYUBKIATCHANAGAR-
DENS-MOSQUE OF PIALI PASHA-AIN ALEH KAVAC SERAI-
HARBOUR ENVIRONS OF CONSTANTINOPLE.
The plague, that ſcourge of the human race, has been for ſome
years confined to the Levant and the eaſtern countries, ſo that we
are happily ignorant of its nature and malignant effects. From the
earlieſt
ages
of the world this moſt ſevere of all maladies appears to
have been inflicted on certain diviſions of mankind, and on the
Egyptians and Greeks in a peculiar degree, according to Moſes and
Homer. The plague of Athens is deſcribed by Thucydides and Lu-
cretius. During the Greek empire, in the reign of Juſtinian only,
which laſted thirty-eight years, a hundred millions are ſaid, by thes.
amplifying Procopius, to have been deſtroyed; and the effects of that
which raged in the ſucceeding century were ſcarcely leſs mortal. In
1349 it paſſed from the Levant through Sicily, Italy, Spain, and
France, depopulating each of thoſe nations a.
The moſt malignant ſpecies of plague is generated in Syria, com-
municated to Egypt, and from thence through the Levant to Con-
ſtantinople, where it ſpreads mortality almoſt without hopes of eſcape
amongſt thoſe who are infected. The medical hiſtory of this diſeaſe
has been lately developed with much ſagacity by Dr. Ruſſel, and in
ſo ample a manner as almoſt to preclude the poſſibility of adding in-
formation on that ſubject. It is an allowed fact that infection is
a It does not appear that the plague, deſcribed by Dr. Sydenham as prevalent in Lon-
don in 1665, was ſtrictly analogous to that of the oriental nations.
107
only communicable by contact; and as the habit is ſuſceptible or
otherwiſe, the danger is increaſed. From daily obſervation, the opi-
nion of the Turks, independently of their doctrine of fatality, cannot
be deemed ſo irrational; for it is paſt contradiction, that one man
ſhall expoſe himſelf to the contact of crowds without precaution, and
yet eſcape the contagion, whilſt another, who has immured himſelf,
and been ſcrupulouſly careful, ſhall receive the taint of death from
unfolding a letter
The young, and thoſe in robuſt health, are more liable to infec-
tion, generally ſpeaking, than others who labour under any chronic
diſorder, or whoſe habits are debilitated by any malady, from which
they are in a convaleſcent ſtate. The reaſon why females amongſt
the Turks are ſaid to ſuffer in a greater proportion than men, may
bc
attributed to their gregarious life, and being aſſociated together in
ſmall apartments. I did not learn that that obſervation was appli-
cable to the women of other nations reſident in the Levant.
It has been remarked, that thoſe who have recovered from the
plague have felt pains in the cicatrices occaſioned by former ab-
ſceſſes, according to its prevalence in the city, without having taken
a freſh infection.
If the patient droops under the dread of death, that event becomes
almoſt inevitable; nor is there a diſeaſe in which the mind exerts ſo
decided an influence, or the imagination is awakened to fo fatal a
ſenſe of danger.
In the bazars and moſt frequented ſtreets of Conſtantinople the
fame crowds are aſſembled, to whatever extent the plague may pre-
vail. So far from taking precautions, a Turk would not conſider
himſelf juſtified in retiring from his ſhop, were it ſurrounded on every
ſide by mortality; and though other nations deny the principle of
1
108
predeſtination, their contempt of impending danger would prove
that
they were actuated by it in ſcarcely an inferior degree.
In the plague of 1795, it appeared that the phaſes of the moon
very materially affected its progreſs, and that before and after them
its increaſe and diminution were decidedly marked. It is known too
that the extremes of heat and cold cauſe it to ceaſe; and the Greeks
affert poſitively that, commencing when it may, it never laſts longer
than the feaſt of St. John Baptiſt, which being the ſummer ſolſtice,
may influence the ſtate of the air. On the eve of Eaſter day they
aſſemble in crowds, and paſs the night in the patriarchal church,
dreſſed in clothes which had lain by ſince the laſt folemnity; foon
after which the plague begins. As a proof of the inveteracy of the
infection, I knew a houſe, in which four perſons died, when the fa-
mily deſerted it, ſhutting up the doors and windows. Three months
after, they returned to it, without duc precautions of fumigation,
when ſeveral more of them were hurried to the grave.
No hopes can be entertained that the Turks, or other ſubjects of
the Ottoman empire, will be liberated from ſo dreadful a viſitation,
ſo long as they neglect common means both of prevention and cure.
The Turks leave much to nature and ſtrength of conſtitution, which
from their habitual temperance and robuſtneſs ſometimes avail;
whilſt the Greeks, who are more luxurious, die in a greater propor-
tion, and contend in vain, by remedies irrational and ſuperſtitious,
againſt its baleful progreſs. From the Greek hoſpital at Pera, to
which thoſe of the lower rank are ſent, to eſcape with health is a
modern miracle. The Frank hoſpital adjoins it, the manager of
which died lately, having been infected twelve times in the courſe of
his life.
b There are ſeveral treatiſes in Arabic on the nature and cure of the plague; the re-
inedies recommended in them are known and ſometimes practiſed by the Turks.
109
Much praiſe has been lately given in the Levant to the applica-
tion of an oiled ſhirt with friction, as the beſt known fpccific: I was
induced to try a ſolution of kali, with ſimilar treatment, inſtead of
oil, and though its ſucceſs was not ſufficiently evinced, as I was ne-
ceſſarily prevented from communication with the patients, I learned
that they recovered. After all, no certain principle has been yet dif-
covered to eradicate its malignancy. In the commencement it
be eaſily traced to certain cauſes, of which its ſpreading is the na-
tural conſequence; but who ſhall explain why in the zenith of de-
ſolation it ſhall, even in the courſe of a few days, diſappear, and no
more be added to the number of thoſe already infected ? So ſudden
a ceſſation is as inexplicable as the remedy is uncertain.
may
Nec ratio remedi communis certa dabatur.
LUCRETIUS, I. vi. v. 1222.
Conſtantinople would ſuffer greatly from a deficiency of water, if
the munificence of the ſultans had not provided numerous fountains,
which the aqueducts, “ thoſe truly imperial works,” conſtantly ſup-
ply. This greateſt of luxuries to a muſulman, as indiſpenſibly necef-
ſary to the functions of his religion, or the exigences of the climate,
is found in almoſt every ſtreet, not indeed in that ſplendour of archi-
tecture and ornament which Rome diſplays, where obedient rivers
are forced into the air, or ſpread over artificial rocks, but where the
pure ſpring, and the ſimple iron bowl, invite the paſſenger to a deli-
cious draught. In vain ſhall we ſeek for a compariſon with the
magnificent ſtructures of Trevi and Montorio, or thoſe within the
colonnade of St. Peter's; the Turkiſh fountains are low, ſquare
buildings, with ſpouts on each ſide, the roofs of lead, curled
up
in
a Chineſe taſte, and the whole profuſely gilded, painted with an in-
finity of colours, and inſcribed with verſes.
During the Greek empire, Valens, having reſolved on the demo-
lition of the walls of Chalcedone, in conſequence of their oppoſition
1 10
to him, removed the ſtones to Conſtantinople for the conſtruction of
an aqueduct, connecting the third and fourth hills by more than forty
arches. It is extremely maſſive, built as the walls, with alternate
courſes of Roman tiles, and having in parts a double arcadea. Juſtin
the younger repaired it in 570, and Suleymàn the Magnificent, in his
grcat. reſtoration of the ancient aqueducts for the ſupply of the city,
completely renewed it from a ſtate of ruin. It conducts the brook
Hydrale from Belgrad, and in the general view of the Ottoman ca-
pital, muſt be conſidered as one of the moſt ſtriking monuments of
its original greatneſs.
Of the vaſt ciſterns, mentioned by Gyllius, thoſe now worthy in-
ſpection are two made by the emperor Conſtantine, and that of Phi-
loxenus. One of the former is now occaſionally full, as it receives the
brook Cydaris. The arcade is ſupported by numerous columns of gra-
nite, with ſculptured plinths, and capitals of the Corinthian order. In
the latter the Turks employ ſpinners of ſilk, and call it, with Aſiatic
amplification, “ the thouſand and one pillars," though they will be
found to amount only to two hundred and twelve, all of fine marble,
and juſt proportions.
With an equal care of the health and convenience of their fub-
jects as that cxerted by the Roman government, public baths have
been eſtabliſhed or continued ſince the Turks have been maſters of
Conſtantinople. Mohammed II. when he founded his moſque, and
attached to it a ſeminary of learning and a hoſpital, added the conti-
guous baths of Zeuxippusb to the ample munificence of his plan.
a Ammian. Marcellin. l. xxxi. c. I.
• Beſide theſe, the baths of Arcadius and Eudoxus, equally ſpacious, were dedicated
to the ſervice of the public. There is no reaſon to conjecture that their plan and eſta-
bliſhment were ſimilar, or in any reſpect equal, to thoſe of Titus or Caracalla at Rome,
which included accommodations for every kind of gymnaſtic exerciſe.
111
Long appropriated to the ſervice of the indigent, he extended the
utility of them by increaſing the accommodation and number of at-
tendants. At this time, a hundred and thirty public baths are enu-
merated within the city walls.
The uſe of baths in Turkey reſembles the luſtrations of the an-
cients, and is widely different from our idea confined to total or par-
tial immerſion. As their conſtruction is ſeldom varied, it is the
more eaſy to give a ſuccinct account of them, and the mode of ad-
miniſtering a luxury ſo contributory to happineſs and health.
Two rooms of competent ſize are covered with domes, thickly
ſtudded with ſmall hemiſpherical glaſſes, which admit a dim light.
The firſt ſerves as a veſtibule and dreſſing room, and that beyond it
is heated by concealed ſtoves as a ſudatory; in the middle is placed
a marble ſlab, upon which the bather is feated, whilſt two men with
perfumed ſoap, and a ſtrigil of camel's hair cloth (ſuch as the ancients
uſed) fixed to their hands, perform a complete ablution. They knead
the muſcles, and give pliancy to the joints, by ſnapping them with the
force of an electrical ſhock; but the whole operation is conducted
with the moſt ſcrupulous neatneſs and decorum. After bathing it
is cuſtomary to go into an adjoining room, like a coffee-houſe, ex-
cepting that beds are prepared in rows, where an hour is ſpent, coffee
and pipes of tobacco are given, and it is then judged ſafe to encounter
the open air. For all this accommodation not more than a piaſtre
(twenty pence) is required, even from a Frank viſitor.
° See an account of them in the tranſlation of D'Onſjon, 4to. 1789, one volume
only of which has appeared, p. 312 to 315.
The “ hammain," or bath, is uſually heated to 100 degrees of Farcnhieit's thermo-
meter. Few men can bear to remain in the inner room more than twenty minutes.
Women ſtay, from cuſtom, a much longer time.
112
Women never go alone to the baths. As ſome of them are ca-
pacious enough to admit of ſeveral harèms at the ſame time, they
become the moſt fafhionable reſort of females in ſuperior life, and
hours are paſſed there in converſation and in partaking of elegant re-
freſhments. The animated deſcription of theſe aſſemblies given us
by our noble countrywomen", who have communicated information
concerning the Levant, with all the glow of imagination, corrected
by truth, I omitted no opportunity of examining, and found no rea-
ſon to queſtion their accuracy. The women do not perform their
luſtrations in ſilence: they have a kind of choral exultation called
the “ ziraleet,” conſiſting of the words lillah! lillah ! lillah! moſt
rapidly pronounced, which may be occaſionally heard in paſſing the
baths near the ſtreets,
What is to all a luxury, is peremptorily enjoined to all by the
laws of Iſlamiſm. No married woman, whatever be her rank, is ex-
empted from attending the bath every Thurſday, nor is poverty an
excuſe, for certain baths are gratuitouſly ſerved. Many, however,
adopt the cuſtom with ſuch frequency and exceſs, that health and
beauty are made the inevitable facrifice. Few houſes of conſequence
are unprovided with a commodious bath.
Traverſing the ſtreets of Conſtantinople our attention is attracted
by columns, the proud remains of Grecian triumphs. Of the three
ſtill to be ſeen, the moſt perfect is called by the Turks the “ burnt
pillar,” as having ſo frequently ſuffered conflagration, who, ſince the
great fire in 1779, have incloſed the baſe with ſtone for its farther
preſervation. It was erected by Conſtantine, and compoſed of por-
phery blocks with circles of emboſſed braſs to conceal the joints.
The height is ninety feet, and the circumference thirty-three. The
d Ladies M. W. Montagu and Craven.
1
113
ſtatue of Apollo was converted into that of Conſtantine, by his fon,
ar after the earthquake in 1150, which precipitated it from the
top, the whole was completely repaired by Manuel Comnenus. At
preſent no ſtatue remains, the porphery is diſcoloured and cracked by
the fire, and the hoops are robbed of their former ſurfaces. The
• Inſcriptions on the burnt pillar :
.
1. CT. XPICTE. KOCMOT. KOIPANOC. KAI. AECITOTHC.
COI. NIN NIPOCHTEA. THN. CHN. AOTAHN. TIOAIN.
KAI. CKHIITPA. TAAE. KAI. THC. POZMHC. KPATOC.
OTAATTE. TATTHN, CIEE. T'EK. IIACHC BAABHC.
2. ΤΟ ΘΕΙΟΝ. ΕΡΓΟΝ. ΕΝΘΑΔΕ ΦΘΑΡΕΝ ΧΡΟΝΩ.
ΚΑΙΝΕ. ΜΑΝΟΥΗΛ ΕΥCEBHC. ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΩΡ.
which aſcertains the date of the repairs by that emperor. See Du Cange, Conftant. Chrift.
The tripod of the Delphic Apollo ſtood near the column of Arcadius on which was
the Æolic epigrain mentioned by Priſcian, I. i. p. 547, 582. During the reign of Leo
the Iſaurian the ſtatue was thrown down by an earthquake. Du Cange.
The Arcadian column was erected in 404, the ninth of his reign. Gentili Bellini, a
Venetian artiſt, was perinitted, with a liberality we can ſcarcely allow to Mohammed II.
to make drawings of the bas reliefs, as they then ſtood. This delineation was preſerved in
the Royal Academy of Painting at Paris, which was firſt engraven by Meneſtrier, and, a
fecond time, with better effect, for Anſ. Bandurus's “ Imperium Orientale," who has given
explications under each of the eighteen folio plates. As they defcribe the triumph of
Theodoſius over the Scythians, which he celebrated at Conſtantinople, the antiquary will
obſerve with intereſt the baths of Arcadius and Eudoxius, the forum of Arcadius, and the
Porta Aurea, repreſented in theſe plates, and probably with as much reſemblance as could
be communicated by ſculpture. On the baſe was the emperor fitting to receive the ho-
mage of ſeveral finall figures turretted, emblematical of conquered provinces.
Mottraye, v. i. p. 324. The Trajan column is 126 feet high, and was built by the
Grecian architect Apollodorus, as we are told by Ammian Marcellinus. It is ſculpture
with the Dacian triumph over king Decebalus. That of Antoninus is twenty feet higher,
and bears the exploits of the emperor, and the war of the Marcommans againſt Marcus
Aurelius liis fucceffor. An anonymous French critic (Temples anciens et modernes, p. 181)
obſerves, “ En elevant la colonne Thcodoſiennc, on prètendit apparement égaler les co-
lonnes de Trajanc et Antonine; on n'y réuſſit pas. Ces deux derniers font admirables, la
première n'a aucune forte de mérite." This criticiſin is at leaſt hafty, if not unjuſt; for
Q
114
column erected by the emperor
Marcian
may
be now fcen in a ſmall
incloſure or garden. The ſhaft is diſproportioned to the capital,
which is unclaſſically rich in ornaments of the Corinthian order.
04
But for the moſt celebrated, and beſt deſerving admiration, we
live a century too late. In the forum of Arcadius, on the hill called
Zerolophus, about the year 455, that emperor erected a ſuperb co-
lumn of white marble, covered with a ſeries of bas reliefs ſpirally de-
ſigned over its ſhaft. Their ſubject was the victory of his father
Theodofius over the Scythians. Soon after the taking of the city,
in 1453, an able artiſt was allowed to make a drawing of it, from
which we are enabled to decide on its excellence. In 1695, becom-
ing ruinous both from earthquakes and fire, and threatening the de-
molition of neighbouring houſes, the ſhaft was intirely taken down.
The baſe now remaining is about fourteen feet high, but the ſculp-
tures are defaced. Having been the entrance of the ſtairs, it is now
made a kind of hut by a poor Turk. When perfect, it was the rival
of the majeſtic pillars of Trajan and Antoninus at Rome, nor did it
loſe by the compariſon, either in richneſs of material, ſymmetrical
elevation, or perfection of art, in proportion as the arts then flouriſhed.
It was evidently copied from them with an emulation of coſt and
magnificence; and what the Goths had ſpared, and the Saracens
would not have overturned, has now yielded to the calamities of
nature.
Nearly in the centre of the city, on the third hill, ſtands the old
palace (eſki ferai) built or appropriated by Mohammed II. who ſur-
rounded it with an octangular wall, extremely lofty, and nearly a
he could not have ſeen the Theodoſian column in a ſtate of compariſon with thoſe at
Rome. The plates in “ Bandurus" give no ſuch contemptible idea either of its deſign
or execution.
115
mile in circumference. When he quitted it for that now called the
ſeraglio, it was applied to the reception of the wives and harèm of
the deceaſed ſultans. On the demiſe of a ſultan they are imme-
diately removed into this retreat from the world, from which they
are ſecluded for life, if they had been noticed by him; where they
are bound to monaſtic ſeverity in onc reſpect only. The mother of
a prince not immediately ſucceeding to the throne of Oſmàn, is in-
dulged with ſeeing him only at the feaſt of beyràm, but on his ac-
ceſſion is liberated, and exerts as queen-mother (validè ſultan) the
very deciſive ſway of ſecret influence, of which the preſent reign is
no uncommon inſtance. The hekim baſhi, or chief phyſician, is the
only man who is admitted within theſe devoted walls, and his at-
tendance is rarely required, and under the ſtrongeſt reſtrictions.
When a ſultan dies, the young ladies who are declared to have been
unknown to him are generally beſtowed as wives upon ſome of the
courtiers of his ſucceſſor.
Of the palaces of the Greek emperors thoſe of the Boucolèon and
Hebdomon were the principal. Theodoſius the younger conſtructed
the former with a ſplendour worthy of the maſter of the eaſtern
world. Its ſite upon the city walls facing the ſea of Marmora, and
f Hadrian Valeſius, one of the commentators upon Ammianus Marcellinus, has waſted
much learning to prove that the Hebdomon, where the emperors were crowned and their
chief palace was ſituated, was ſo denominated, not as occupying the ſeventh hill within
the pomoerium of the city, after its enlargement, but as being ſeven miles diſtant from the
other palace. What is more extraordinary, he diſcredits the accurate topography of
P. Gyllius, who had inſpected the ground, of which he had dreamed only, in his cloſet.
See Gyll. Top. Conft. 1. iv. and 1. vii. c. 21.
“ Ta avwbey T8 TEIXOS." Evagrias.
Gyllius (1. iv. c. 4) notices the Cynegeion, or theatrum venaticum, for baiting wild
beaſts, of which this may be conjectured to have been the ſite. .
1
116
not far diſtant from the Atmeydàn, is ſtill to be traced by detached
members of architecture.
On the ſide of the harbour I ſurveyed the walls from the Phanàl
gate, in the Greek quarter, to the hebdomon, or palace of Conſtan-
tine. It appears to be of the original conſtruction to the oblique
gate (cghrì capeſli), from whence the maſonry is more regular, con-
ſiſting of alternate courſes of Roman tiles and hewn ſtone, with larger
and more frequent towers. Their form varies; an imperfect ſquare,
the ſemicircular, and the polygonal, all deeply bracketted, occur in
ſucceſſion. . At a ſmall gates, called hivàn-ſerai-capeſſi, or that of
the menagerie for wild beaſts, the courſe of the fortification ſtretches
with an abrupt angle toward the ſeven towers, under the acclivity of
the ſeventh hill. A few hundred yards from it are ſuperſtructures
& This gate is likewiſe diſtinguiſhed by Gyllius as having great analogy to the preſent
porta Palatina, ſive Cynegion appellata.” “ Nunc ex tot palatiis antiquis nullius 110-
men extat, niſi palatii in ſeptimo colle fiti, quod etiamnum appellant Conſtantini, ex cujus
ædificiis reſtat unum, cum aliquot columnis, et ciſternâ in quâ elephanti ſtabulantur."
Belon, who wrote about the fame time, and was aſſociated with Gyllius in theſe in-
quiries, obſerves, “ Q'on voit les ruines d'un palais moult antique, que le vulgaire nomme
le palais de Conſtantin. Le Turc y fait nourrir ſes elephants, & autres beſtes douces.
But he is equally ſuperficial and unſatisfactory upon every ſubject of antiquity.
Pancirollus (Grævii Theſaur. v. vii.) notices “ Palatium” in the fourteenth region,
but does not attribute it to any emperor in particular. “ Ita appellatur principis habitatio,
quia Auguſtus in Palatino monte habitabat."
Prince Cantemir (b. iii. p. 98) mentions theſe buildings under the common name of
Balåt, or IIa..ation, but judiciouſly treats as erroneous the tradition of their having been
crected either by Conftantinc the Great or the famous Beliſarius. The great diamond
now worn by the ſultan was found amongst the ruins, in the reign of Mohammed II. by
a poor boy.
Amongſt the ſucceſſors of Conſtantine, few contributed more to the embelliſhment
of his imperial city than Julian, who, from his love of literature, is ſaid by Zoſimus, l. iii.
to have added a library to the palace. Ammianus Marcellinus obſerves (l. xxii. C. 9), that
he left Conſtantinople « incrementis maximis fultum." Gibbon, R. H. v. vi. p. 509, 4to.
117
conſiderably above the battlements, with three large apertures for
windows. Aſcending the ſeventh hill, now a Greek cemetery, the
vaſt walls and towers of the imperial palace (tekìr ſerai), extending
for ſeveral hundred yards, appear in front. Ample ſpaces are in
many parts perforated through the lofty walls, and it is evident from
internal veſtiges that the ancient ſtructure reſted upon
them.
At the
farther end riſes, from a more elevated ſite, the palace of the empe-
rors, as the Turkiſh name imports, and which tradition, received in
the time of Gyllius (1545), had long attributed to Conſtantine, now
remaining much as he deſcribes it. It is an oblong ſquare of un-
uſual height, proportioned rather as a tower, with four ſtories and
tiers of windows, the marble frames of which are yet feen. Of the
columns the greater part is ſunk into the ground, the poliſh is worn
away, and the carved capitals filled with lime. The heads of the
arches on the outſide are ornamented with a bordure, conſiſting al-,
ternately of pieces of white marble and porphery about fix inches
ſquare. This ſeems to be the prototype of a very common ornament
which the Turks paint on their moſques. Indeed the whole of this
laſt-mentioned ſtructure will appear to an intelligent obſerver rather
as the work of Conſtantine Paleologus, in the fifteenth century, than
of Conſtantine the Great, although, without doubt, occupying the
ſite and retaining the name of his original palace.
Eyub h is a village without the walls, moſt pleaſantly ſituate near
h D'Ohlſon (Tabl. de l'Empire Ottom.) gives two views of the facred moſque at
Eyüb. He has likewiſe ſelected the cemetery as the moſt ſtriking ſpecimen. Thoſe at
Scutari are more extenſive and pictureſque, if ſuch a ſubject will admit of the idea. The
moſque is deſcribed t. i. p. 305, 306.
About two miles from Eyüb and the walls of Conſtantinople are veſtiges of an im-
menſe fortification, conſiſting of rude tumuli and a vallation, probably that which was
thrown up by Mollemàh the Saracen at the ſecond ſiege by the Arabs, during the reign of
Anaſtaſius, in 716-718. Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. X. p. 8, 8vo.
118
the harbour. It is ſo called from Eyùb, or Job, the ſtandard-bearer
of Mohammed, who was killed in the firſt ſiege by the Saracens.
The conqueror of Conſtantinople diſcovered the place of his fepul-
ture by a revelation, and erected a mauſoleum and moſque, where
are now depoſited the ſword with which the ſultan is inveſted (a ce-
remony analogous to coronation), and all other reliques of the pro-
phet but the ſanjàk ſherife, which is kept in the ſeraglio. It has
been ſeveral times loſt, but is preſerved by this expedient without a
miracle. A ſmall piece is cut off from the original, and ſewn to an
cnſign of the ſame colour, which is renewed as often as neceſſary.
Adjoining are ſeveral palaces of the princeſſes of the imperial family
(bey ſultàn); and the preſent empreſs-mother has lately completed
her ſepulchral chapel, which is a beautiful ſpecimen of modern
Greck architecture, reconciled to the Saracenic taſte. The marbles
are exquiſite.
In a rich valley beyond is a delightful retreat much frequented by
the ſultan on days of gala. The ſite having been once that of paper-
mills, occaſions the preſent name of Kitchanàh. It was firſt laid
out about the beginning of this century by Ahmet III. upon a plan
communicated by the French ambaſſador at that time reſident. Wc
are ſurpriſed to ſee Fontainbleau tranſported into Thrace, and inſtead
of the myrtle in the wild luxuriance of nature, and odoriferous ſhrubs
without cultivation, to find the ſweet waters, as they call the Belgrad
rivulet, confined in a ſtraight and narrow channel between a formal
avenue of low trees, or forced to tumble over flights of white marble
ſtairs into band-boxes of the ſame materials.
When a concourſe of people is here aſſembled, to ſurvey them
from one of the hills is extremely amuſing. An European crowd,
eſpecially when unenlivened by females, is a dull ſpectacle, as you
look over acres of black hats; but the infinite variety of Levantine
119
habiliment, and the gay tints of their turbans, afford us a view bril-
liant and various in the extreme.
The kioſques, or banqueting houſes, reſemble cach other very
nearly; gaudy paintings, groteſque roofs, and Chineſe arcades, com-
poſe all the architecture, nor has this any peculiarity.
Returning on the Galata ſide of the harbour, an object worthy
obſervation is the moſque of Piali Paſha, viſier to Suleyman, which
is unique in its plan, being divided in the middle by an arcade with
columns, and having three equal domes under each diviſion. As the
ſultan his maſter was at the ſame time engaged in building his ſuperb
temple, the prudent viſier diſplayed his piety without either imitating
or attempting to rival it.
Farther on is a palace on the brink of the harbour, which, from
the extraordinary brilliancy of its internal embelliſhment, was called
Ain Alèh Kavàç Serai, or the palace of mirrors. When Ahmet III.
had recovered the Morea from the Venetians, and they again foli-
cited his forbearance or friendſhip, ſumptuous looking-glaſſes, the
moſt perfect of their manufacture, were ſent as preſents, and this re-
ſidence adapted to the reception of them. What was the wonder of
its day, was in time overwhelmed by dilapidation.
A very abſurd prejudice prevails reſpecting the private property
of deceaſed ſultans; their women are immured for life, and their
palaces, however gorgeous, are condemned to a moſt ſacred
appro-
priation, and being left uninhabited, become a kind of mauſoleuin,
till they have yielded to a gradual decay, and a new edifice, the work
of ſome future prince, riſes from the ruins. It was here that the
ceſſion of Crimca to Ruſſia was ratified, ſo injurious and ſo diſgrace-
120
ful to the Ottoman power. Certain reſtorations, but in an inferior
ſtyle, have been made by the preſent ſultan.
On the hill above a very populous village (Haſsìm Pàfha) an in-
cloſed down, of greater verdure than its vicinity can boaſt, ſpreads for
a conſiderable extent. The Turks have given it the name of Ok-
meydàn, the arrow-field; and it ferves for the manly exerciſe of
archery, in frequent exhibitions of which the emperor not only pre-
ſides, but is uſually ſuperior to his competitors. The bow differs
much from that of ancient Gothic ſhape which is uſed in England;
it is made of horn, bent backwards, and has the elegant contour
which we have fo often admired when attached to the ſtatues of
Diana or Cupid.
The plan of conducting this amuſement varies likewiſe from our
own; for diſtance is the criterion of ſuperiority, not the ſtriking a
mark. Small white ſtones commemorating extraordinary feats are
diſperſed about the plain, and ſome of them record the proweſs of
the royal arm. In the kioſque the victor's bow and arrows are ſuf-
pended in triumph, with encomiaſtic verſes in gilt letters. No poets
are more happy in terſe epigrammatic compliment than thoſe of the
Turkiſh court. To compoſe verſes extemporaneouſly and with ele-
gance is an envied accompliſhment, liberally beſtowed by nature on
Aſiatics, and cultivated in Conſtantinople with every advantage of
inſtruction and emulation.
:
In order to form an adequate idea of the effect of the Ottoman
capital in a grand view of Aſiatic landſcape, which has a character
· evidently diſcriminated from that we are accuſtomed to admire, few
points are more favourable than thoſe which are commanded by fail-
ing from the ſweet waters to the feraglio. On the right is an unin-
121
.
terrupted view of the whole city with the ſide preſented to the har-
bour from the great wall to the fartheſt extremity, a ſcope of ſeveral
miles. Each of the ſeven hills is diſcoverable in grand ſucceſſion,
crowned by moſques of gigantic dimenſions, and the intervening de-
clivities are cluſtered with habitations, and ſtreets on terraces. Ap-
proaching from the ſea of Marmara five only are ſeen.
To fome ſpectators the great ſimilarity of conſtruction, and the
almoſt infinite repetition of ſmall cupolas, unharmoniſing with the
expanſe of the domes, as they abound on cloiſters and baths, may
preſent a tireſome monotony. Yet the flatneſs of them diminiſhes
in a great degree that unpleaſing predominance of effect produced by
the elevated rotunda in Italian cities. When I have viewed the
whole of Rome from the Tarpeian rock, or the Montorio, I could
not forbear comparing the dome of the pantheon, which is that of
S. Sophia on a ſmaller ſcale, with thoſe ſurrounding; nor could the
majeſtic elevation of St. Peter's divert my admiration from the true
fimplicity of a ſpherical temple, which fo decidedly marks the an-
tique.
The ſhips of war are moored together on the oppoſite ſhore, and
form a reſpectable navy in ſize and appointment, rather than from
number. Thoſe of commerce are ſtationed nearer Galata; the wa-
ter is literally peopled with boats, and the whole, as a maritime
ſcene, is rarely equalled. The harbour is nearly half a mile broad.
An idea of peculiar magnificence is annexed by the Turks to the ex-
plofion of gunpowder, of which they are very laviſh. Every time the
ſultan or capudàn paſha appears on the harbour or the Boſporus, he
is received with a general falute from each ſhip of war; and the
winding ſhores re-echo, daily at leaſt, with vollies from their pon-
derous cannon.
R
-
122
The harbour is the paradiſe of aquatic birds, which, as if preſuming
on the perfect ſecurity they enjoy from the religious ſcruples of the
Turks, hover round in flocks. During the colder ſeaſons the num-
ber and variety of them is ſcarcely credible. They light on the
loaded boats of grain, and feed without interruption, as I have been
informed; but I have ſeen turtle doves, which they venerate, in-
dulging without reſtraint.
Of the European environs of the capital little can be ſaid in
praiſe: they exhibit, in general, bare, ſterile ridges, without verdure ;
for cultivation is partial, and horticulture is almoſt unknown. Within
a mile of the ſuburbs, its gorgeous fanes riſe as from a deſert at the
call of a magician, and the beautiful chiftlik, or country ſeat, of
Daoot Pafhà, flouriſhing amidſt a dreary waſte, confirms the idea of
his reſidence there.
}
!
1
123
SECTION VIII.
-CORPS
GALATA-HISTORICAL SKETCH-PRESENT STATESPERAMCORPS
-
DIPLOMATIQUE-DRAGOMANS-SOCIETY AT PERA-TANDOUR
-
-PORTERS-MEDRESSEH-MEVLEVEH DERVISHES-CEREMO-
NIES AND MUSIC-PRINCES' ISLANDS-PROTE-ANTIGONE-
KALKE-PRINKIPOMONASTERIESRETURN OF THE SULTAN
BY WATER.
The city of Galata roſe under the auſpices of the Genoeſe republic,
from the connivance rather than the encouragement of the Greek
emperors. Juſtinian included the oppoſite village of Sycæ, or the
Fig-trees, within the juriſdiction of the capital, as its thirteenth
region. In 1261 certain Genoeſe merchants obtained a right of
ſettlement, and the privilege of being governed by their own podeſtà
or chief magiſtrate, ſubject to the empire". As they increaſed in
commercial conſequence, they were involved in a war with Canta-
cuzene, and from Michael Paleologus extorted a licence to ſurround
their city with a ſtrong wall, which was completed in 1348. Four
years after, they defeated the navy of the Greeks and their Venetian
allies; and had not petty conteſts for fuperiority amongſt themſelves
occaſioned delay, might have become maſters of the imperial terri-
tory. In the laſt ſiege of Conſtantinople, their unextinguiſhed jea-
louſy of the Greeks induced them to give a covert aſſiſtance to the
operations of Mohammed II. ; and it is obſerved by Gibbon, “ that
à It was called Sycodes, or Sycæ Juſtinianæ. Gyllius.
b Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. vi. p. 156, 280.
124
the colony of Galata awed the capital, and navigated the Euxine,
till it was involved in the final ſervitude of Conſtantinople itſelf."
In 1446, the walls, with their twelve gates, were completely re-
paired, and the citadel, or tower of Chriſt, firſt built by Anaſtaſius,
raiſed to double its former height, which, beſide a very lofty conical
roof, exceeds 140 feet. As it crowns a hill, the elevation is extra-
ordinary. The Turks uſe it only for the purpoſe of ſounding the
tocſin, or great drum, in caſe of fire, to the ravages of which it yielded
in the conflagration of 1794, but has been ſince improved as a proſpect
room, by the preſent ſultan.
Galata is at preſent the reſidence of many merchants of all na-
tions, and the narrow ſtreets are formed by ſhops and magazines for
articles of European commerce. The circuit inclofes four miles.
Its pretended juriſdiction is claimed by the Venetians, whoſe ambaſ-
fadors are ſtyled “ bailo," and whoſe public entrance through the
gates is attended with a ceremony of preſenting the keys. The lover
of Gothic antiquity will diſcover with pleaſure eſcocheons of arms,
and inſcriptions in that character, placed againſt the walls d. Im-
perfect remains only are now ſeen of the Genoeſe fort, from which
the chain was drawn acroſs to the Seraglio point, during the fieges
which happened in the reigns of Leo III. Michael II. and Conſtan-
tine the laſt.
• The tower of Galata was taken by the French, and the boom forced by the Ve-
netians, previous to their ſiege of Conſtantinople. Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. vi. p. 152.
P. Gyllius (1. iv. c. 11) recounts as originally exiſting at Sycæ the temples of Am-
phiaräus, of Diana Lucifera, and of Venus Placida, beſides a ſpacious theatre, built as all
thoſe in Greece againſt an acclivity, and the forum of Honorius.
1
One of theſe inſcriptions imports that the walls were repaired by Maruffus Baldaſar,
prætor, 1446, with his armorial enſigns.
125
The great fuburb called Peraº ſtretches, for more than two miles,
along the ſummit of a lofty hill. The ſtreets interſect each other,
are ill paved, and irregularly built. This
This quarter has been long aſ-
ſigned to the corps diplomatique for their winter reſidence, who are
fent by the following nations. By the Porte no difference is made
between the rank of ambaſſador and envoy.
France claimed the
precedency in point of more ancient alliance, but the preſent miniſter
of the republic is ſtyled envoy. England fends an ambaſſador, as did
Holland under its former government. Venice deputes a bailo, the
moſt lucrative of ſimilar appointments; and the court of Vienna an
internuncio, who conſider themſelves as of the ſuperior order. The
envoys are thoſe from Ruſſia, Sweden, Spain, Pruſſia, and Naples.
By his court the former is ſupported in extraordinary ſplendour.
+
At the Porte no levees are held for foreign miniſters. On their
arrival they have each his audience with the viſier and ſultan, but on
their departure with the former only. During the whole of their re-
fidence all buſineſs is tranſacted by memorial and confidential meſ-
ſage, which are preſented on Thurſdays, the divan day, by the ſenior
drogoman of cach miſſion; but ſhould any matter of more moment
ariſe, a private meeting is arranged between the miniſter and the
reis effendi, at a kioſque called Bebèck ſerai, on the Boſporus.
The privileges of the corps diplomatique are great; and the groſs
affront of confining the Ruſſian and Imperial ambaſſadors originates
only in the conſideration of their being the natural enemies of the
Ottoman power. In the preſent more refined ſtate of Turkiſh poli-
tics it is probable that ſuch an expedient will not be repeated.
e Pera dicitur a trajectu Brenni ducis Gallorum. Du Cange Conft. Chriſtian. 1. i.
p. 67. It was likewiſe called by the Turks “ Bey oglu,” as having been the reſidence of
Alexius Comnenus, the Greek prince, who was ſupported by Mohammed II. after the
taking of Conſtantinople.
126
For tranſacting buſineſs of all kinds with the natives, dragomans,
or interpreters, are indiſpenſably neceffary, the number of whom, in
ſome of the embaſſies, exceeds thirty. To theſe a baràt, or privilege
for life, with an additional protection for two ſervants or aſſiſtants,
are granted by the Porte, ſubject to the nomination of the principal
of the embaſſy. The greater number of theſe were formerly ſta-
tioned in different parts of the empire, for the convenience of com-
merce, but for many years paſt, both the office and the qualifications
of an interpreter have been waved, and the privilege is purchaſed by
rich Greeks, to ſkreen their perſons and property from the hand of
rapine, and the ruin effected by that ſpecies of robbery called the
« avanìa,” which has been before incidentally deſcribed. To com-
mercial men the exemption from port duties is a deſirable object, as
well as the ſharing of every immunity appendant on the nation to
whom they are attached. By the gradual abuſe of theſe
jealouſy of the Turkiſh government has been long awakened, and they
perpetually infringe on liberties fanctioned by their own capitulations,
with a view to curtail them in every article. Immediately on the
laſt the empreſs, in order to conciliate the Greeks, filled every
port in the Archipelago with conſuls of that nation; the ſcheme was
obtruded to too great an extent, and the Porte peremptorily inſiſted
that no rayah ſhould be deemed capable in future of bearing that
office.
powers the
peace the
Of the dragomans ſtationary in Pera moſt are deſcendants of Ve-
netian families, who have been ſo employed from the earlieſt eſta-
bliſhment of the embaſſies. The German and the French (under
the old government) have eſtabliſhed a ſeminary of young men
(Giovani di lingua) of their own country, to ſupply vacancies as they
may happen; a plan which candour muſt allow to be replete with
bencficial effects.
127
It is truly ſingular with what preciſion many of them can com-
mand fluency in ſeven or eight languages; and Pera may well be
compared with the tower of Babel for number, and ſometimes for
confuſion, of tongues.
The corps diplomatique, taken generally, live with great expence,
and magnificent ſuites, and their palaces, particularly thoſe of Venice,
France, and Sweden, are fumptuous, and delightfully ſituated. In
the winter, and during carnival, the gaiety of their ſociety is more
apparent; but in general, though the companies are large, converſa-
tional intercourſe is burdened by etiquette, and the ſhackles of cere-
mony are ſeldom forgotten.
Amongſt the other inhabitants of Pera there is nearly an equal
mixture of European and Oriental manners. The men almoſt uni-
verſally wear the dreſs of their own nation, but the ladies blend the
French faſhions with the Greek, and produce a ſtyle by no means
ungraceful. The coiffeur is generally reſemblant of the latter na-
tion; the hair falls in ringlets over the forehead, and in braids low
behind, and on the crown they wear a cap of white cloth, with a large
taſſel of pink or blue ſilk, bound round with a ſmall turban of
flowered muſlin. A very favourite ornament with them are chains
of fine gold, connected in bracelets, or worn over the neck.
Their
jewels are hereditary and unalienable, and are frequently ſhown as
having been firſt ſet in the time of the emperors.
The beſt rooms in their houſes are thoſe neareſt the roof, which
are ſpacious and lofty, but unaccommodated with fire-places; moſt
of them have ſofàs. During cold weather they place a table in the
midſt, which they call a tandoor, under which is a pan of burned
charcoal ; the whole is then covered, not only with a very large
counterpane, but a blanket, and the mixed company of ladies and
128
+
gentlemen repoſe around it, completely enveloped to the chin. .
When I was firſt introduced to ſuch a party, and invited to a place
amongſt them, I was forced to ſtifle a ſmile at their groteſque ap-
pearance.
A ſtranger will be greatly ſurpriſed to hear men crying water
for ſale in the ſtreets, which they carry in bougets of leather ;
Ubi venit viliflima rerum
Aqua.
HOR. EPIST.
but more fo to obſerve the Armenian porters, who exceed all that
Buffon ſays reſpecting the ſtrength of a man, conſidered as an ani-
mal. Sixteen of them, with their arms interlaced, form an almoſt
incredible phalanx of ſtrength, and frequently bear, againſt the long
and ſteep acclivity from the quay at Galata, a caſk of wine ſuſpended
by a pole, the weight of which diſtributed between them, requires
each individual to ſupport three hundred pounds.
A college, for the cducation of youth who are tranſplanted into
the feraglio, ſituate in Pera, is called the Medreſèh, and regulated
by the capy baſhi. This inſtitution was founded by the famous
viſier Djin Haly Pafhà, for the fons of any Turk who chooſes to
dedicate them to that ſervice, out of whom the ſultan, at his annual
viſit, makes his election. The more ingenious are inſtructed in
iflàm, and the ſciences it deems lawful, and the more athletic and
active in the military exerciſes of the fabre and gdirìt. The eſta-
bliſhment includes more than five hundred of the moſt promiſing
boys of the capital.
The monaſtery of the derviſhes of the order of Mevlevèh is an
object well worthy examination, and eaſily inſpected even by Franks,
129
who are rigorouſly excluded from attending any other kind of Mo-
hammedan worſhip.
There are thirty-four orders of religious, whoſe monaſtic auſterity
reſembles that of the monks and hermits in the Greek or Roman
churches. Hadji Becktaſh, in 1563, was the inſtitutor of the Iti-
nerants, from whom the other orders have ſprung. Mohammed IV.
endeavoured their ſuppreſſion without effecting it f.
The Mevlevèh dervilhes perform weekly a public worſhip, which
conſiſts of dancing and turning on one foot with incredible rapidity,
whilſt a red-hot iron is held between the teeth. Totally exhauſted
by pain and fatigue, they fall to the ground in a ſenſeleſs trance,
when they are removed to their chambers, and nurſed with the
greateſt care, till their recovery enables them to repeat fo ſevere a
proof of their devotion. In this ceremony they are accompanied
with the ſofteſt muſic, produced by the nèh, or traverſe flute, the
ſantoor, or pſaltery, and the tamboòr, or guitar. At fun-ſet they are
ſometimes ſeen ſitting under the ſhade in the Campo de' Morti, and
their wild enthuſiaſtic notes have ſo much ſweetneſs, that I have
ceaſed to liſten to them with regret 5.
* D'ohſon Tabl. de l'Emp. Ottom. t. ii. p. 311.
The howling or barking derviſhes, are ſo called from their rapid and inceffant pro-
nunciation of " ullah-hoo !”
$ In 1691, Prince Cantemir, having made the Turkiſh-muſic his ſtudy, compoſed a
treatiſe upon it, dedicated to Ahmet III. which is become very rare. To him the Turks
owe the adaptation of their airs to notes, many of which are now popular amongſt them.
The notes were deſcribed by numeral characters, as was the mode of the ancient Greeks,
the Romans, and the Italians, before the diſcovery of muſical points by Arezzo, and the
ſubſequent invention of the notes now uſed by Giovanni Muria Perugino. . They have
both tones and time, with intonations, being more rich than the Europeans in femitones
S
M
130
The Turkiſh ſcale, in common with others, comprehends twelve
ſemitones, which they divide into minor tones, whence reſults that
ſweetneſs of melody by which they are ſo much delighted, and which
leads them to diſparage the greater harmony of European muſic.
They reject notes, depending entirely on memory, but are, notwith-
ſtanding, guided by ſtrict rules of compoſition, according to their own
muſical theory. Nothing ſurpriſes them more than to take down in
notes the air they are playing, and to repeat it after them.
Many well educated Turks learn mufic for their private amuſe-
ment, though they never perform but in very ſelect companies, or
in their own harèm for the entertainment of the ladies. The vocal
muſic of the lower orders is extremely uncouth, and the expreſſion is
always that of deſperate love; as wine is forbidden, convivial ſongs
are unknown.
From the Campo de' Morti, the Princes' iſlands cloſe a moſt en-
chanting proſpect; and though twelve miles diſtant, are clearly con-
ſpicuous". They are four in number; and their ſituation may be
deſcribed to an Engliſh reader by ſuppoſing the iſle of Wight, as
and melody. M. Guys has been miſinformed when he aſſerts that “they have no muſical
theory;" and Neihbuhr (Voyage en Arabie, t. i. p. 142) has erroneouſly ſaid that they think
themſelves diſhonoured by the practice of muſic.
The military muſic conſiſts of harſh hautbois founded in uniſon, and many drums of
different ſizes. Bands of theſe are retained by the grandees, in proportion to their rank.
The number of each inſtrument in concert aſcertains the pretenſions of their maſter.
Toderini ſulla Lett. Turcheſc. t. ii. p. 238.
h P. Gyllius De Boſp. Thracico, I. iii. c. 4.
Inſulæ Propontides, or Suburbanæ, deſcribed in the tenth book of the geography of
Artemidorus. Dæmonefi, another name for theſe iſlands, is derived from that of a man,
according to Ariſtotle.
131
ſeen from Portſmouth, to be divided into four parts, cach of them
being cloſely contiguous to the other.
Protè, the firſt of them, is heathy and uncultivated, and nearly three
miles round. Its port is now filled up, and the town, with two
monaſteries, is deſtroyed. This iſland has two ſummits, one verging
to the north, and the other to the oppoſite direction. Two large
ciſterns, once belonging to the convents, are ſtill to be ſeen.
Between the north and ſouth are the iſlands of Platys and Oxya;
the latter of which is a ſharp rock, higher than the level of the hills
at Conſtantinople, and abounds in oyſters of a delicate ſort.
Antigone i is almoſt as deſolate as Protè, and conſiſts chiefly of
abrupt cliffs, which are profuſely decked with arbutus, roſe marine,
and the lada, or gum feftus, from which the ladanum is collected.
On a ſummit are conſiderable ruins of the arches and dome of a large
church,
A mile farther is Kalkè, anciently Chalcitisk, ſo denominated as
being a rock of copper ore, held, during the early ages, in the greateſt
eſtimation for the quality of the metal. Of the braſs a ſtatue was
preſerved in the temple of Apollo at Sicyone.
By the Turks the mine is totally neglected; but ſuch neglect of
the native riches of their territory can prevail with a people whoſe
characteriſtic trait is avarice. The gold mines of Macedonia and
Thaſo, and the ſilver, which is known to be ſo abundant in Phrygia
1
i Panormus. Zenaras.
* Menippus in Periplo Bithyniæ.
Stephanus Byzantinus calls Chalcitis Demoneſus, " which has copper, borax, gold,
and coranarium, much uſed for collyria for the eyes.
132
and the Troad, in fact, all the mineral wealth which might be found
throughout the whole empire, contributes little to the enriching of
the ſtate, or of individuals. Ignorant in the extreme of mechanic
arts, it would be neceſſary for them to employ their ſubjects, in
whoſe honeſty they could not confide; and they prefer the poffeffion
of ſo much treaſure uſeleſs and unapplied, to the hazard of being de-
frauded of the ſmalleſt part of it.
Gyllius mentions that heaps of the ſcoria of copper and borax
were to be obſerved in his time, and conjectures that if the ſhores
were examined, the gold mentioned by Ariſtotle might be diſco-
vered.
In the iſland of Kalkè are three large monaſteries, which, under
the patronage of the Greeks of rank, are ſtill in a flouriſhing ſtate,
not ſo much with reſpect to numbers, or diſcipline of the religious,
as the perfect repair of their convents. The delightful temperature,
the proſpects, of endleſs variety and intereſt, and more than all, the
abſence of the Turks, are ſufficient inducements to many Greeks of
quality to inhabit the comfortable apartments found in theſe buildings
during the ſpring and ſummer months.
1
The method of aſſembling the monks and villagers to prayer is
ſingular, and adopted by the Greeks, not only in every part of the
Turkiſh territory, but in the more independent provinces of Walla-
chia and Moldavia. As a good Ottoman holds the found of bells in
abomination, it is ſupplied by ſuſpending a piece of wood, cut in the
ſhape of a loſenge, and ſeveral feet in length, which is played on by
two hammers, and produces a loud and varying noiſe, perceptible at
a great diſtance. Belon mentions, that in his time, ſome of theſe
inftruments were made of iron, but that the Turks foon prohibited
their uſe.
133
The Abbè Sevin, in 1729, viſited theſe monaſteries in ſearch of
manuſcripts, and though he found more than two hundred, none had
more than thirty leaves together without mutilation!
From the hill on which the monaſtery of the Holy Trinity is
ſituate, a ſea view, terminated by the whole ſweep of Conſtantinople
and the oppoſite ſhores, preſents itſelf, particularly under the ſetting
ſun, with a füblimity exceeding verbal painting, or the powers of the
happieſt pencil. It is indeed that combination of landſcape which
the world through ſo many ages has agreed to admire as unrivalled.
Near the largeſt monaſtery of the Panagia, the Engliſh viſitant
will remark the tomb of Sir Edward Barton, who was the firſt am-
baſſador to the Porte, ſent by Queen Elizabeth, and who died there
in 1597.
Prinkipò is the largeſt iſland, and the moſt diſtant, verging to-
wards the gulf of Nicomedia. It has likewiſe its convents much re-
ſembling the others in plan and beautifully elevated ſituation, and
has the farther advantages of a more populous village, cultivated fields,
foreſt ſcenery, and vineyards. But foreſts, according to the Engliſh
idea, do not exiſt in this iſland, nor on the contiguous ſhores of Ana-
tolia ; pine groves of great extent are not uncommon. A cuſtom
prevails of ſetting theſe on fire, during the hot months, from which
two kinds of profit are derived, charcoal is made, and the graſs for
caſual paſture is improved, but the pictureſque is univerſally ſacri-
ficed.
It was propoſed by Djîn Hali Paſhà, the impetuous viſier of
Ahmet III. at the beginning of this century, to confine all the Eu-
1
1 Mem. Acad. Infc. t. vii. p. 339.
1
134
ropcan miniſters to reſidence upon theſe iſlands, inſtead of at Pera,
which they reſiſted with ſucceſs m.
With greater liberality and uſefulneſs, Raghib Paſhà, the viſier of
Muſtafà III. the father of the preſent ſultan, projected a lazaretto
in Antigone, with the humane view of affording an aſylum to
thoſe infected with the plague, and that its ravages in Conſtanti-
nople might be lefſened. His death in 1765 prevented this fa-
lutary ſcheme. It might have been an attempt equally hopeleſs
and laudable.
A projecting point, about midway to Conſtantinople, breaks the
view very pictureſquely. It is now called Fanàl baktíhè, and had a
palace, at preſent entirely dilapidated. On the ſame ſpot was once
placed an heræum or temple ſacred to Juno.
The ſingular effect of an evening ſcene, when returning from the
Princes' iſlands to Conſtantinople, made a laſting impreſſion on my
mind, and often recurs to my imagination.
As the ſun had fet about an hour, the whole air was replete with
a ſpecies of ſmall phoſphoric fly, the corruſcations of which were fo
ſudden, and ſo quickly repeated, as to reſemble electric ſparks. The
ſultan was on his return from Buyuk dereh. He was ſitting in his
barge of ſtate, of twenty oars, worked by boſtanjìs, with their chief
at the helm. Others little inferior in fplendour followed in proceſ-
fion; and what added much to their gorgeous appearance was, that
as the oars were lifted, the water was perfectly micacious, and they
appeared to glide over a ſea of liquid gold. The cauſe of this cu-
rious circumſtance I leave to naturaliſts. There is much groteſque
m Şir 7. Porter's Obferv. on the Turks, p. 151.
135
taſte diſplayed in the ſhape of theſe barges, which is ſometimes that
of a dragon, the head and tail being covered with burniſhed gold.
Shakeſpeare's ſtrong deſcription of Cleopatra's barge is almoſt
realiſed in thoſe of the Turkiſh fovereign.
" The barge he ſat in, like a burniſh'd throne
« Burnt on the water.'
ANT, AND CLEOP. Act i. Scene 2,
.
.
136
SECTION IX.
TIIE BOSPORUS- PALACES OF SULTANAS-ANECDOTE OF THE
-
PRINCESS BEY KHAN-HOUSES OF GREEKS AND ARMENIANS-
-
OPPOSITE CASTLES-BUYUK DEREH-SUMMER RESIDENCE OF
AMBASSADORS BELGRAD GREEK WEDDING TEMPLE OF
JUPITER URIUS, AND CASTLE ON THE ASIATIC SHORE-CYA-
NÆAN ROCKS-SCUTARI-TURKISH BURYING GROUNDS AND
CEREMONIES.
The Boſporusa is a narrow ſea dividing Europe from Aſia, and con-
necting the Euxine with the Propontis, now called Marmora. In
the broadeſt part it does not exceed three miles, and frequently not
a Petri Gyllii De Boſporo, 1. iii.
Hudſon Geogr. Min. t. iii.
« Infanientem navita Boſporum
" Tentabo."
HOR. 1., iii. c. 2. V. 30.
The contrary currents, and the imperfect itate of navigation amongſt the Romans, render
the epithet “ infaniens” ſufficiently intelligible.
“ Parum naturæ repugnantis intervalla et tanquam in diſſociatione germanitas con-
Avium quippe cantus, canumque latratus invicem audiuntur. Vocis humanæ
commercia inter duos orbes manente colloquio, niſi cum id ipſum auferunt venti."
Plin. Nat. Hift. I. vi. C. I.
Dionyſius Byzantinus wrote Tepimyndas TP Ev Tw Bodwopw avawns in verſe, which is
mentioned by Suidas; and the fame ſubject has afforded matter for one of the beſt poems
cxtant in inodern Greek, by Senior Momars, dragoman of the German million. It is
entitled “ Boowocouaxia,” and was publiſhed about twenty years ſince.
A very intereſting chart of the Boſporus, with the ancient names of places hiſtorically
aſeertained, is given amongſt the elucidations of that truly claſſical and elegant work of
Abbè Barthelemy, the Voyage of the younger Anacharſis.
cors.
137
"
one, and the length from the mouth to the Scraglio Point is ſome-
what leſs than fifteen. Nature has been particularly luxuriant in the
diſpoſition and formation of its ſhores. Huge mountains, broad
ſcars, and wooded promontories, ſucceed each other with beautiful
variety, and preſent ſcenes ſcarcely inferior to thoſe in the ſtraits
of Meſſina, or the Helleſpont. In cultivation no compariſon can be
drawn between them, as either ſhore is covered with continued vil-
lages and gardens, containing a population collectively equal to that
of the capital. An enumeration of them might not be intereſting;
I ſhall therefore ſelect only the more ſtriking objects.
The navigation of the Boſporus is as uncertain as that of the
Helleſpont, under the alternate dominion of the north and ſouth
winds, but it is occupied by innumerable boats of every deſcription.
It abounds in fiſh, particularly the red and grey mullet, the flying
fiſh, the luphari, and the dentale, which are peculiar to it. The
dolphins have been ſuffered to increaſe to great numbers, by the pre-
judice of the Turks, who will not deſtroy them, and are ſeen
pur-
ſuing their gambols in packs, on the ſurface of the water. During
the Rammezàn ſome thouſand piaſtres worth of oil is nightly con-
ſumed in illuminations, which might be ſupplied at a cheap rate
from theſe fiſh b.
Near the European ſhore the fiſhermen have erected lofty ſtages,
from whence they watch with unwearied patience for ſhoals of fiſh,
of the approach of which the tranſparency of the ſea enables them
to give ſignals to people with nets. Scarcely a minute paſſes but
flocks of aquatic birds, reſembling ſwallows, may be obſerved flying
in a lengthened train from one ſea to the other. As they are never
known to reſt, they are called halcyons, and by the French “ les
• Dolphins were the device of the ancient Byzantines, and uſed on the reverſes of
their coins.
T
138
ames damnècs ;”--they are ſuperſtitiouſly conſidered by all the in-
habitants.
The villages on this ſide are chiefly owned by Greeks, Armenians,
and Jews, but have Turkiſh names and juriſdiction. Being built
cloſe to the ſea, they form a kind of maritime ſtreet, very narrow in
general, as the protruſion of the Thracian hills allows but little ſpace
on the ſhore. After failing by the grand arſenal at Tophanàh, the
imperial palace at Dulmàh baktſhee (the melon garden) firſt attracts
our notice; it is, if poſſible, more groteſque and Chineſe than any
other, but a favourite reſidence of the preſent ſultan. Near it ſtands
a grove of cypreſs, where are found the trunks of many trees the cir-
cumference of which exceeds ſix feet.
Several palaces in this vicinity are appropriated to ſultanàs, or
ladies of the imperial race. As a matter of ſingular favour, I was
permitted, in the ſuite of his excellency Mr. Liſton (whoſe urbanity
I can not ſufficiently acknowledge“), to inſpect that newly built by
Bey Khàn, the ſiſter of Selim III. who had given her in marriage to
his favourite, the paſha of the Morea.
The cape of Scutari, with the cluſtered villages of Kuſkungiuk
and Stavros ſloping from irregular acclivities, with their minarèhs and
cypreſs groves, contribute to a moſt enchanting effect.
Cloſe
upon
the ſhore of the canal, and projecting over a part of
• The term ſultana is purely European ; for ſultan is indifferently applied to both
ſexes. They are the daughters of the blood-royal, not the wives of the reigning prince.
The mother of the firſt born prince is called haſſekè ſultàn, and the widow of the laſt em-
peror' validè ſultàn, if the preſent ſovereign be her ſon. The princes of the blood-royal,
as well as the reigning emperor, are ſtyled ſultàn.
4 « Hoc tribuiffe parum et non tribuiſſc ſcelus."
139
it, this ſpecimen of Turkiſh architecture in the firſt degree of cm-
belliſhment is conſtructed, with a front extending more than three
hundred feet, and entirely of wood. The eye is in ſome meaſure
prepared for the profuſion of ornament with which it is ſatiated on
the inſide, by external decoration, rich in the moſt gaudy colours,
gilding, and reſplendent braſs.
As in all Turkiſh houſes the habitable rooms occupy the firſt
floor, after aſcending we entered the grand ſaloon, 180 feet long, but
not proportionably lofty, out of which are communications with
many
ſtate chambers in their choiceſt taſte. Simplicity or ſcience of
ornament is not underſtood by them; for all that they attempt is
brilliancy produced by a quantity of colours and gilding. In the
inlaid compartments the deſigns, though regular, are clumſily con-
ceived, and the perſpectives (probably for want of practice, or the
prohibition of their law) are below criticiſm. But it muſt be al-
lowed that in their ceilings there is ſomewhat to admire, the inter-
ſections being ſtudded with fantaſtic roſettes. In one of the rooms,
the ſun is curiouſly repreſented, by many luminated radiations, on a
large ſcale. In the carving of the marble bafins for the fountains
and baths, the ſtatuary, either in deſign or execution, is by no means
contemptible.
With this ſumptuous diſplay, the whole would be incomplete
without quotations from the Koràn, or panegyrical verſes, frequently
written in large gold letters in every room. In one built over the
water with a grate through the floor that the ladies might amuſe
themſelves with fiſhing, fome lines are inſcribed in praiſe of this re-
treat, which commence with this ſtrong ejaculation: “O God!
O God! what delightful place is this?" and at the cloſe the poet
informs himſelf and his readers, that it is a fiſh-pond; to which he
adds his own name, and the date of his compoſition. The courts
140
behind the palace are deſigned for parterres, with fountains entirely
of marble, giving coolneſs to kioſques of extreme lightneſs.
The ſultana is about twenty-eight years old, very handſome, but
corpulent. She had ſurveyed us through the glimpſe of a blind,
very properly called “ la jalouſie," and gave orders to her favourite
Abyſſinian ſlave to do us the honours of her court.
We were re-conducted to the fiſhing-room I have deſcribed,
where the compliment of coffee, conſerves, and perfume, was a truly
magnificent exhibition. The cups and ſpoons were of gold ſtudded
with diamonds, and a confection of exquiſite flavour was offered,
called the conſerve of rubies, as well from the richneſs of the other
ingredients, as that pounded rubics were a part of the compoſition.
So capricious are their preparations in the confectionary art.
Adjoining to the palace is the houſe of the paſha, her huſband,
comparatively a very unaſſuming edifice, with a gallery leading to
her apartments; for it is a point of etiquette, that the huſband of a
ſultana ſhould openly profeſs the homage of a ſubject, and wave the
prophet's privilege of having other wives.
When the ſultan announces his intention of beſtowing a princeſs
upon any
of his courtiers, the favourite muſt repudiate all his former
wives, diſmiſs his concubines, and prepare a palace, with a vaſt reti-
nue, for her court.
She has an abſolute authority over her huſband,
as a badge of which ſhe wears a ſmall dagger, having the handle fet
with diamonds, which is the only dower the fultan gives her. The
ceremony of betrothing is thus performed. The dagger above men-
tioned is delivered, with an order from the ſultan to the bridegroom,
couched in the following terms: “ Princeſs, I give thee this man for
thy pleaſure, and this dagger for thy revenge.” With theſe in his
141
..
poffeffion, he approaches very reverentially her private apartment.
As fhe reclines on her ſofa, he makes three profound bows, one on
entering, another half way, and a third at her feet, where he profeſſes
his paſſion, and the happineſs to which he aſpires. At theſe words
ſhe riſes with diſdain, without farther attention to him, and ſeizes
the dagger, as if to puniſh him inſtantly for his raſhneſs. He then
draws the ſultan's order from his bofom, kiſſes it, applies it to his
forehead, and preſents it to her. She reads, or pretends to read it,
and, perfectly reconciled, exclaims, “ The ſultan's will be done.'
A ſplendid cavalcade then uſhers her to the palace, which is prepared
for her in the moſt ſuperb ſtyle of eaſtern embelliſhment. She re-
tires firſt; and certain it is that he is fain to creep in at the bottom
of the bed, and ſubmit to an acquieſcence in cuſtom ſo repugnant to
the pride of the lord of an harèm. Should he commit an infidelity,
or be guilty of any breach of contract, he is privately ſtrangled, or at
leaſt ſtripped of his wealth, upon the leaſt complaint of his confort
to the ſultan; and if he be exiled or diſgraced upon political motives,
it is not allowed her to follow him, but ſhe is married to another.
If he retains his influence, and is ſent to a diſtant province, ſhe is not
permitted to attend him, but muſt keep her court at Conſtantinople,
or in its vicinity.
1
A few months before our viſit, the pàſha was remanded to his
government of the Morea, and his indulgent princeſs ſelected
twenty-five of the moſt beautiful of her ſuite, whom ſhe preſented
to him.
As we advance ſtands the village of Kooròo cheſhmeh, in which
are the houſes of. the Greek princes who are returned from their go-
vernments of Wallachia and Moldavia, with their numerous relatives
and dependants, and thoſe of the biſhops.
1
142
By a kind of ſumptuary law, no ſubject of the empire is per-
mitted to paint the outſide of his houſe of more than one colour,
and that of the graveſt hue. The following anecdote may evince
the ſingular vanity of the Greeks, and how highly they eſtimate any
privilege enjoyed only by the Turks. Abdul-hamid had been long
indiſpoſed, when a Greek, of no rank or fortune, offered a noftrum
which reſtored that ſultan to health. The grateful monarch pro-
poſed to him to name his reward, when his ſole requeſt was that he
might be allowed to ornament the exterior of his houſe according to
his own taſte.
Many of theſe ſombre-looking edifices have ſufficient magnifi-
cence within, nor is the mode of diſpoſing or furniſhing their apart-
ments very different from that adopted by the richer Turks. The
walls are of white ſtucco, ſometimes relieved by numerous prints im-
ported by the Franks; but paintings are ſeldom ſeen.
Amongſt the princes and biſhops the retinues are large, and what
is deficient in external parade, is amply made up in the ſubmiſſive
homage of their domeſtics. Deacons are the menial ſervants of
biſhops.
The merchant, who paſſes a long day, from ſun-riſe to fun-fet,
fixed with croſſed legs to his counter in the bazár, and ſordidly ha-
bited, no ſooner arrives at his houſe on the canal, than he is received
by his ſervants, dreſſed out in rich fatins and pellices, and is uſhered
to the females of his family, who wait his attendance at the evening
repaſt, where the delicacies of a luxuriant climate abound, and native
hilarity is indulged without interruption or reſtraint.
The houſes of the Armenian merchants are ſcarcely leſs numerous,
143
nor is there much diſcrimination of manners between them and the
Greeks, excepting what may reſult from the ſame cuſtoms adopted
by a gay and a dull nation. By the Greeks, female ſociety is held
in more juſt confideration ; for an Armenian gives to his wife or
daughters the rank and employments of menial ſervants, and, more
illiberal than the Turk, ſuffers himſelf to be attended by them in ſo-
litary pre-eminence at the table, from which they are excluded.
way of the Boſporus d ſtand two ancient caſtles, immediately
oppoſite on the narroweſt fhores, where the Perſians under Darius ,
the Goths, the Croiſaders, and the Saracens, have at different times
effected their paſſage. They owe their origin to the Greek emperors.
That on the Aſiatic fide was rebuilt by Mohamnièd I. the grand-
father of the victorious Mohammed II. who extorted from the ill-
fated Conſtantine Paleologus a permiſſion to found another on the
European ſide, which, extenſive as it is, was completed with extra-
ordinary exertion in the ſpace of that year which immediately pre-
ceded the fall of the Greek empire.
Theſe caſtles have been called the “ towers of oblivion,” as they
have long ſerved for that rigorous ſpecies of confinement which
ceaſes only in death, and are ſtill uſed as a priſon where the refractory
janiſſaries are ſtrangled. Both theſe fortreſſes produce a mean effect
• Herod. 1. iv. c. 87; P. Gyllius De Bofporo Thrac. I. ii. c. 13 ; Gibbon's R. H.
v. ii. p. 5, 4to. and v. vi. p. 472.
e Mandrocles, by order of Darius, conſtructed a bridge of boats over theſe ſtraits ſo
ingeniouſly and of ſuch ſtrength that the multitudinous army of the Perſians were enabled
to paſs over with eaſe. To record ſo ſignal and ſo tranſitory an event, Mandrocles com-
poſed and painted a large picture, with a votive inſcription, which was ſeen by Herodotus
(1. iv.) in the temple of Juno at Samos. P. Gyllius, . De Boſporo, I. ii. c. 12, gives the
inſcription.
144
in the view, from having ſharp roofs inſtead of battlements; but the
ſite of the Roomily-Hiflàr (European caſtle) is ſtrikingly grand and
romantic. The other covers with a village a low neck of land.
Frequent fountains are ſeen on the ſhorc, of the pureſt water, to
which is attached one of the ſtrongeſt and moſt ancient ſuperſtitions
of the Greek church. They are called “ ayaſmà," and to repeat
certain
prayers at ſtated ſeaſons, and to drink deeply of them, is held
to be a moſt falutary act of their religion.
At the village of Terapia a very wide reach commences, extend-
ing more than four miles to the Black fea, and the firſt view is
caught of the beautiful ſtrand of Buyuk dereh. This ſpot for its
amenity has been ſelected as the country reſidence of many of the
corps diplomatique, who have houſes on the plan of the eaſt, im-
proved by their own taſte, and European accommodation. During
the ſummer it is the reſort of a very large and mixed fociety. The
evening promenade by moonlight is one of the gayeſt ſcenes that can
be imagined. Such an aſſemblage of different nations, ſo many groupes
of elegant women, their theatrical air and dreſſes, the refreſhing ze-
phyrs, the placid ſurface of the ſea, covered with the boats of Greeks
ſerenading their miſtreſſes, and the general harmony, all confpire to
awaken the mind to ſenſations of complacency and enjoyment f.
The headlands riſing behind the village of Buyùk-derèh are of
the richeſt compoſition; and if the hand of taſte were directed to
aſliſt nature, and embelliſh this claſſic ground with temples, ſuch as
Madame Genlis, in her ſtory entitled “ La Faëric de l'Art et de la Nature,” has
fixed the ſcene at Buyuk-dereh, but the deſcription of Greek manners is over-embroidered
and inaccurate; ſuch as ſpeaking of “ their ſlaves," the patriarch attending a privatc fu-
neral, and “ the torch of Hymen being borne before a bride going to a Chriſtian church.”
This laſt “ ben trovato" is borrowed from M. Guys.
145
were once placed there, a more perfect landſcape would ſcarcely have
been produced by the pencil of Pouſſin or Loraine.
Nor has the oppoſite ſhore features of a deſcription leſs magnifi-
cent. The Giant's bed, as it is called, is a lofty mountain, and ano-
ther beyond it is.crowned by a large caſtle, which will remind thoſe
who have ſeen that of Dover, of one of the moſt majeſtic fortreſſes in
England. At the weſtern extremity of the village is a meadow and
valley, which retires for a mile or two, in the centre of which is a
bower formed by plane trees of incredible bulk. This ſpot is viſited
in the ſummer by the ſultan, when he is entertained by charlatans
and rope-dancers, in a ſtyle of the loweſt buffoonery, a relaxation
which he appears to enjoy.
In this meadow the croiſaders under Godfrey of Bouillon were
encamped for many months previous to the ſiege of Nicæa in 1097 %,
when the emperor Alexius prohibited their nearer approach to Con-
ftantinople, a circumſtance intereſting to the lovers of Taſſo, and of
chivalrous lore.
From the aqueduct at the cloſe of this valley the road leads for
four miles through the foreſt to Belgrad, a village likewiſe honoured
by the reſidence of ambaſſadors. The adjoining aqueducts", of vaſt
& Gibbon's R. H. v. vi. p. 33.
h
1. Batchekeuy has twenty-one arches, ten of which are twice as large as the others;
the road to Buyùk-derèh leads under a ſingle arch. It is the moſt modern.
2. The long aqueduct of fifty arches, the upper tier one half the height.
3. Near the laſt mentioned, connecting a deep dell. It has two galleries over the
arcade
4. Burgàs conſiſts of four large elliptical arches above and below, with buttreſſes
per-
forated likewiſe with arches, two in the upper tier, and one in the lower. A gallery leads
U
146
extent, and the two lakes, at the hcad of which arc immenſe mounds
of maſſive maſonry, the work of ſucceſſive ſultans, are objects of
great curioſity
Near theſe “ bendts," as the Turks call them, is a kioſque, in a
ſequeſtered ſpot, now totally neglected and in ruins.
The foreſt of Belgrad is very extenſive, ſtretching along the coaſt
of the Black ſea for nearly a hundred miles. The cheſnut, oak, and
platane, are the more frequent and beautiful trees, which ſpread their
umbrageous branches far and wide. Roſes, myrtles, and the arbu-
tus, are amongſt others with which nature has ſo liberally decked
theſc woodland ſcenes. In theſe deep receſſes the wild boar and
wolf are frequently taken, or killed, by the Greek villagers, who are
principally employed in the chaſe, as game of all kinds is abundant
and excellent, particularly the red-legged partridge, the becca fica, or
ortolan, and a large ſpecies of woodcock, called beccaccia.
It is dangerous to repoſe under a ſhade fo apparently delicious;
for vipers are innumerable and noxious, and the unceaſing ſhriek of
the wood-cricket is the moſt wearifome of all continued noiſes.
« Sole fub ardenti reſonant arbuſta cicadis."
VIRG. Ecl. ii. 13.
Nor is this the only tireſome noiſe. During the ſpring, at twi-
light, innumerable. frogs (the ranæ paluſtres” which Horace exe-
crates) are heard croaking inceſſantly from the great bendt, a lake,
6
over the lower tier, as in all thoſe that are double. It is 440 feet long and 107 feet high,
and is ſaid to be ſuperior to the Pont du Garde at Niſmes by M. Guys, v. iii. p.
All theſe, as now ſeen, appear to have been reſtored, if not originally built, by Su-
leyman I. and his ſucceſſors.
147
nearly a mile diſtant from the village. The ceaſeleſs found is louder
than of a large rookery, and much more harſh and diſſonant.
The village of Belgrad is embofomed on all ſides in a thick
grove, and is now ſo much leſs than the paradiſe deſcribed by
Lady M. W. Montague, that it is only one of the fineſt foreſts in
the world.
The ſite of her former reſidence is now ſhown in a deſolated
field: indeed none of the houſes are built to laſt a century; and that
of Sir Everard Fawkener (who came many years after Mr. Wortley)
is haſtening to decay. Belgrad is the reſidence of many families con-
nected with the different miſſions during the months of ſpring and
autumn, but the intermediate ſeaſon, for which various cauſes are
aſſigned, is extremely inſalubrious.
At the fountain Lady Montague has ſo pictureſquely deſcribed,
it is amuſing to ſee the Greek females, on a feaſt day, aſſembled to
draw water, and habited in their gayeſt attire. The form of the
amphora, or pitcher with double handles, and the whole attitude
produced by their manner of bearing it on their ſhoulders, are ſtrong
veſtiges of the antique. Their dances with garlands, and their rude
muſic of the lyre, zamboona, and meſkale, tranſmit the cuſtoms of
the moſt diſtant ages to our own days.
I was preſent at a marriage ceremony between two Greek
pea-
ſants, the ſervants of the Pruffian envoy. The proceſſion was led on
by a dance of men holding each other by the hand, and animated by
the loud and rude tones of a tabor and pipe; the firſt man waving a
ſmall flag. The betrothed were ſupported, cach by two men, and
diſtinguiſhed by the richneſs of their habits, their hair being profuſely
decked with long ſhreds of gold tinſel, which was ſpread ſo thickly
1
148
papas had
over the face of the bride, that it anſwered the purpoſe of a veil.
The hands of each were joined by ſilver claſps, and garlands. When
all were uſhered into the ſaloon, where the had prepared his
conſecrated furniture, after looſing the claſps, and reading the Greck
ſervice with much expedition, the typical union was performed, by
placing paper crowns, very finely gilded, on the heads of each, which
were ſeverally interchanged. The lady of the houſe then ſtanding
between them, laid her hands on the crowns during a ſhort prayer,
when the papas applied a feal five times to the bride, intimating that
thoſe parts ſhould be ſacredly appropriated to the huſband; benedic-
tions and incenſe were then freely diſpenſed, and all the relatives of
either ſex kiſſed them both on the temples. They were then con-
ducted into the drawing room, ſeated on the ſofa, and treated with
great reſpect, and the uſual refreſhments, of which all their attendant
friends partook. During this compliment, ſmall preſents were de-
poſited in the lap of the bride, who appeared to be much oppreſſed
both by the honour and the fatigue ; while roſes tied up with tinſel
ſhreds were given in exchange, and this addreſs" Go and do like-
wife!" A bridal hymn was then ſung, in which the papas was af-
ſiſted by ſome boys, and the people receiving them at the ſtairs, ano-
ther proceſſion round the village concluded this fête, in which the
ancient precedent had been religiouſly followed'.
P
Returning to Buyùk-derèh, the European ſhore becomes craggy and
broken, and at the mouth of the canal, and near the Cyanean rocks
exhibits ſtrong marks of volcanic violence, ſuch as might authoriſe a
conjecture that the intercourſe of the two feas was fo made. The
points of theſe rocks, .called Symplegades, occaſionally diſappearing,
2
i De la Valle, p. 161 to 168, gives a lively deſcription of a marriage between Greeks
of higher rank, in which he notices the diſplay of the bridal furniture, and the ſupper, &c.
Many of thoſe ceremonies are now become obſolete.
149
ſupplied the poets with a fiction that they floated on the ſurface of
the ſea. Two of them only are now feen; and a votive altar placed
on the almoſt inacceſſible ſummit of that on the European ſide is
called, by a vulgar error, Pompey's pillar k.
On the Aſiatic ſhore, paſſing Baron de Tott's diminutive fortifi-
cations, we reach the caſtlc fo conſpicuous from Buyùk-derèh,
which was built on a ſite originally that of the temple of Jupiter
Urius!
1
* The ſmall round altar called Poinpey's pillar is ornamented with the caput bovis,
and feſtoons, and inſcribed with the name of Caius Cæſar; and Gyllius conjectures that a
column was there erected upon the ancient altar of Apollo as its baſe.
1 A marble diſcovered there has an inſcription imperfectly tranſcribed by Wheler and
Spon, and more correctly given by Chiſhull, Antiq. Afiatice, p. 59. It is ſubjoined, with
farther emendations.
OTPION EK. TIPTMNHE TIE OAHTHTHPA KAAEITS2.
ΣΗΝΑ ΚΑΤΑ ΠΡΟΤΟΝΩΝ ΙΣΤΙΟΝ. ΕΚΠΕΤΑΣΑΣ,
ΕΙΤ. ΕΠΙ. ΚΥΑΝΕΑΣ ΔΙΝΑΣ. ΔΡΟΜΟΣ ΕΝΘΑ ΠΟΣΕΙΔΩΝ.
ΚΑΜΠΥΛΟΝ. ΕΙΛΙΣΣΕΙ ΚΥΜΑ ΠΑΡΑ ΨΑΜΑΘΟΙΣ.
EITE KAT. ALAIHN. ITONTOT TIAAKA NOSTON EPETNA.
ΝEIΣΘΩ ΤΩΔΕ ΒΑΛΩΝ ΨΑΙΣΤΑ ΠΑΡΑ ΞΟΑΝΩ. .
ΩΔΕ ΕΥΑΝΤΗΤΟΝ. ΑΕΙ ΘΕΟΝ. ΑΝΤΙΠΑΤΡΟΥ ΠΛΙΣ.
ΣΤΗΣΕ ΦΙΛΩΝ ΑΓΑΘΗΣ ΣΥΜΒΟΛΟΝ ΕΥΠΛΟΙΗΣ. .
Urion inclamato Jovem comitemque ducemque
Navita, cum ventis pandere vela parat.
Sive ad Cyaneas immani in vortice petras
Tendat, ubi horrificis æftibus unda fremit;
Sive iter Ægæi ſcopuloſa per æquora tentet
Tutus, ubi huic ftatuæ liba facrârit, eat.
Huncce Deum hîc poſuit lætabile nautis fignum
Præſidiumque Philo, filius Antipatri.
This marble is ſaid to have been brought to England, and found in the collection of
Dr. Mead.
150
This caſtle, and another correſponding to it, were certainly
crected by the Greek emperors, to protect the ſtraits. There is now
neither inſcription nor date, but the letter M very largely carved,
which might refer either to the emperor Manuel, or the virgin Mary,
their tutelary
Near it are ruins of a large church, and farther on, of a convent,
the ſpacious ciſtern of which is fooliſhly ſhown as the giant's grave.
Excepting the Aſiatic caſtle (Anadouli hiſſàr) already mentioned,
ſummer palace of the ſultan, and a beautiful moſque built by Ab-
dul-hamid, the great reſemblance of the ſhores of the Boſporus ren-
ders this leſs remarkable. It is not ſo fully inhabited, and principally
by Turks.
The heights above Scutari command a ſingular view of the Se-
raglio point, with the acclivities and grand moſques crowding behind
it. The Perſians retained it as a camp for more than ten years; and
it was there that Conſtantine defeated Licinius m .
In our progreſs I ſhall advert to the ancient ſtate of Scutari, or
Cryſopolis, which ſtill flouriſhes in populouſneſs, though not in ſplen-
dour. It is the reſidence of the Perſian ambaſſador, who, like thoſe
of the chriſtian powers, is not permitted to inhabit Conſtantinople.
The village in which the temple ſtood was anciently called “ Ispov," as may be ſeen
in Herodot. Melpom. 85; Polibius Hift. I. iv.; Marciani Peripl.; and Arrian Peripl. Pont.
Eux, ad finem.
m Gibbon's R. H. v. i. p. 520, 4to.
From the combined fleets of the French and Venetians a landing was effected at
Scutari, the palace ſeized, and five hundred Greek horſe routed by eighty French knights.
Ibid. v. vi. p. 149. On the ſixth of July, 1203, they croſſed the Boſporus in ſix divi-
fions, and routed the emperor Alexius with ſeventy thouſand men. p. 152.
151
Many of the officers of ſtate, particularly thoſe who are in diſgrace,
or who affect privacy, live intirely at Scutari.
Every year, the great caravan of pilgrims who viſit Mecca at the
expence of the ſultan are encamped, for ſeveral weeks previous to
their march, in the vicinage of Scutari. Many ceremonies are there
performed which are fingular. For ſome years paſt, the numbers of
theſe voluntary. or intereſted devotees has ſenſibly diminiſhed: former
fultans were more zealous or profuſe; and no muſulman ſeems
now to regret that ſo conſiderable a branch of the expenditure is
retrenched.
The ſurrounding cemeteries have a very ſingular appearance, and
the cypreſs groves afford a melancholy ſhade, which has no unpleaf-
ing influence over the mind.
No people exceed the Turks in religious obſervances, by which
the memory of deceaſed friends is continued and honoured. To
frequent the grave of a parent, or beloved relative, to offer expiatory
prayers, or to mourn in ſilence for a long period after their death, is
a duty which a good muſulman never neglects, and which he cannot
perform by proxy.
groves have
grown, and
The humbler graves are marked by cypreſſes planted at the head
and feet, from which cuſtom ſuch extenſive
are ſeen in every ſtage of vegetation. Others are diſtinguiſhed by
upright ſtones, carved for men with a turban denoting their rank or
occupation during life; and for women, with a plain round top.
Inſcriptions, containing the name and age, and ſome appropriate
verſes, are likewiſe emboſſed with raiſed letters, gilded, and contraſted
by a black or green ground, very delicately wrought. Between ſome
of theſe a cheſt of ornamented ſtone is placed, and filled with earth,
152
1
in which the choiceſt aromatic flowers and herbs are planted, and
regularly cultivated by the females of the family, who aſſemble in
groupes for that duty. This mark of reſpect is more generally ſhewn
to the
young
of either ſex, who die unmarried; it is of the higheſt
antiquity amongſt the poliſhed and the ruder nations, and ſurely none
can be more elegant and appropriate.
The funeral prayer is a ſimple and energetic compoſition, to be
cxcelled only by thoſe of our own liturgy, on the ſame occaſion.
“ O God! be merciful to the living and to the dead, to the pre-
ſent and to the abſent, to the ſmall and to the great, to the males
and to the females who are amongſt us. O God! grant that thoſe
amongſt us whom thou ſuffereſt to live may continue in the belief of
Ifàm, and that they whom thou depriveſt of life may die in the faith.
Diſtinguiſh him who is now dead by the poſſeſſion of repofc and
tranquillity by favour of thy mercy and divine forgiveneſs. O God!
increaſe his goodneſs, if he be amongſt the number of the good, and
pardon his ſins, if he be ranked amongſt the tranſgreſſors. Grant
him peace and ſalvation; let him approach and dwell near thy eternal
throne; ſave him from the torments of the grave, and from the
flames of eternity; grant that he may live in paradiſe, in the ſociety
of bleſſed ſouls. O God! convert his tomb into a delicious abode,
equal to that of paradiſe, and not into a cavern, like that of hell.
Be merciful to him, thou moſt merciful of all beings!" This prayer
is uſed for either ſex; but for an infant they add, “ May this child
be our forerunner to eternal life, O God! May this innocent be the
pledge of our fidelity, and of our heavenly recompenſe, as alſo our
interceffor before thy divine clemency"."
D'ohijon Tabl. de l'Emp. Ottom.
153
SECTION X.
DEPARTURE FROM CONSTANTINOPLE-TOPHANA-VIEW OF THE
--
SERAGLIO THE CANAL OF THE BOSPORUS-SCUTARI, OR
CRYSOPOLIS LEANDER's
TOWER CHALCEDON - ANCIENT
HISTORY--ORACLE-COUNCIL-PRINCES' ISLANDS, OR DÆ-
MONESI-GULF OF NICOMEDIA-HISTORY OF THAT CITY
RUINS OF THE PALACE OF DIOCLESIAN-PICTURESQUE SCE-
NERY AT THE HEAD OF THE GULF-INSCRIPTION-ERACLI-
ANCIENT HERACLEA-HEIGHTS OF ARGENTHON--VILLAGE OF
TAVOUSHANDJIL-PLAIN OF NICÆA-CITY WALLS---HISTORY
AND ANTIQUITIES-PRESENT STATE-LAKE ASCANIUS-PLINY
AND CATULLUS-BAZARKEUY.
We embarked in a veſſel which we had hired of a Turk at Top-
hanà, one of the ſuburbs of Conſtantinople, on the oppoſite ſide of
the harbour. It is a ſpacious ſquare which gives a very complete
idea of edifices after the Turkiſh model, and conſiſts of a handſome
moſque, the front of the ordnance-office, a range of coffee-houſes,
and a large fountain in the centre glittering with a profuſion of gild-
ing and gaudy colours. A few minutes' failing gave us a perfect ex-
ternal view of the feraglio, encircled with lofty embattled walls, with
its domes and kioſques cluſtered in ſplendid confuſion, and intermixed
with gigantic cypreſies, riſing, in the ſea, from an elevation which
a com
-Altero forge
" Quaſi un eccelſo pyramide un cupreſſo."
TASSO.
154
nature ſeems to have intended for the ſeat of dominion over the
whole world,
Beyond, the hills of. Conſtantinople, crowded in the richeſt
groupe, and the immenſe fabric of Santa Sophia, with the temples of
ſucceſſive ſultans rivalling its extent and magnificence, complete a
vicw of unequalled grandeur. The ſuburbs of Pera and Galata, with
its ſingular tower, compoſe a noble ſweep above the harbour; and
the ſun now haſtening to decline, ſpread a glow which added incre-
dible ſplendour to the whole. We looked up the canal of the Bor-
porus in a long extent, admiring its peopled ſhores, and the palaces
of ſultanàs, light and fantaſtically conſtructed, as if by fairy hands.
We foon paſſed a ſmall tower, rifted in an inſulated rock, by
ſome ſtrange miſapplication called Leander's. It is now a light-
houſe; and tradition, more probably, reports it to have been the ob-
livious priſon of a Greek princeſs. To our left, on the coaſt of Aſia,
roſe the town of Scutari, the Cryſopolis of the ancients, ſo called as
being the emporium where the Perſians collected the whole tribute
of their acquired dominion. It has experienced many viciſſitudes
in a flouriſhing ſtate, and the devaſtation of ward; it is now full of
houſes and moſques. It covers the rock very boldly, and is flanked
b - Videtur urbi dominaturæ facta a naturâ ſedes,-eſt in Europa, habet in conſpectu
Afiam.” The remainder of the deſcription given by Buſbequius is commended by Gibbon,
as a ſketch by an able maſter: and thoſe who have read the deſcription of Conſtantinople
in his “ Ronan Hiſtory,” will, after they have ſeen it, be the more furpriſed at ſuch a
portrait drawn only from books.
с
Dionyſius Byzantin. in “ IIepirmory.”
d
Xenophon. Ellenic. 1. i.- Victory over Licinius by Conſtantine at Cryfopolis in
324. Gibbon, v. ii. p. 262, 8vo.
155
by thick groves of cypreſs.
of cypreſs. Contiguous to the capital are cemeteries
ſo planted for ſome miles extent; in fact, the dead ſeem to occupy
as much ſpace as the living. Amongſt the Turks a prophecy obtains
that the imperial city will one day be regained by the Chriſtians ;
and on this motive, a faſhion is prevalent with thoſe of rank to
chooſe their graves at Scutari, that they may not become ſubject
to their enemies, even in death; for Aſia is the patrimony of true
believers.
The next promontory is the ſite of Chalcedon, the ancient rival
of Byzantium. It was founded by the Megareans under Archias,
who are ridiculed for having overlooked the more eligible ſituation.
The Athenians were amongſt its earlieſt maſters, from whom they
revolted during the Peloponneſian war to the Lacedemonians. It
was taken and deſtroyed by the Perſians under Pharnabazus ; de-
ſpoiled of its walls by the emperor Valens; and then ravaged by the
Goths. Having been reſtored, in a degree, by Cornelius Avita, it
became the feat of eccleſiaſtic juriſdiction, and the ſchool of contro-
verly in the infancy of chriſtianity. The Saracens under Choſroes,
in the ſeventh century, laid it waſte; and it was at length reduced
to a ſtraggling village, its preſent condition, by the Turks. Such is
the compendium of its military hiſtory F.
The oracle of Chalcedon was renowned in very remote antiquity.
During the early chriſtian era its councils gave laws to the church;
and it was here that the 6 fynod of the oak,” held in the magnifi-
D'Ohlſon Tabl. de l'Emp. Ottom. t. ii. p. 338, 8vo. « C'eſt autant par un ſenti-
ment de pieté que par un effet de cette opinion preſque generale dans la nation, que l'Aſie
eſt la ſeule et veritable patrie des Mahometans, on enviſage la domination Othomane
comme moins durable que dans les contrées Aſiatiques."
f Petri Gyllii de Conſtantinop. Topograph, I. iii. c. 9. Xenoph. Ellenic. 1. i. &c.
156
cent chapel and monaſtery built by Rufinus, the miniſter of Arcadius
and Eudoxia, condemned St. Chryfoftom to exiles. The ruins are
ſought after in vain h. Sultan Suleyman II. tranſported all the co-.
lumns and marble, and they now decorate one of the moſt beautiful
temples which have been dedicated to the religion of Mohammed.
The Dæmoncſi, or Princes' iſlands, were full in our view. It is
ſaid that the princeſſes of the Greek imperial family, who were un-
married, eſtabliſhed nunneries, and embraced monaſtic life, to which
circumſtance their preſent name refers '.
& Gibbon's Rom. Hift. vol. v. p. 405, 8vo. edit.
h " Nulla cxtant mæniorum veſtigia ſupra terram, neque ſub terrâ, niſi raris locis
fundamenta alta ingentibus faxis quadratis conſtructa, quæ penitus effodi nuper vidi in
ædificatione ſubſtructionum, quas rex Soleimanus molitur, in tertio monte Conſtantino-
poleos. P Gyllii, 1 iii. c. 10.
Toderini ſulla Lett. Turcheſca, t. i. p. 231.
Caligine liber
“ Boſporus adverfam patitur Chalcedona cerni
“ Chryſopolis vicus.'
With a certain analogy the Turks call Chalcedon Cady-keuy, or the town of judges.
Where they have invented new names, inſtead of corrupting thoſe tranſmitted by the
Greeks, it has not been always with ſo great a relation. The fourth general council was
held at Chalcedon in 451.
It was the ſcene of moſt inveterate cruelty pra&tiſed by the emperor Phocas in 602,
who commanded that the five ſons of his predeceſſor, Maurice, ſhould be executed in his
fight, and laſtly himſelf, in the twentieth year of his reign, and the ſixty-third of his age.
The females of his family, upon a falſe accuſation, afterwards ſhared their fate. The
ſanctuary at Chalcedon, to which they had fled, was thus facrilegiouſly violated. Gibbon's
Rom. Hift. v. viii. p. 210.
1
!
i Manuel the emperor ſpent whole ſummers in the Dæmoneſi with his niece Theo-
dora. Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. vii. p. 91.
Plinii, Hift. Natur. l. vi. C. I, theſe iſlands are called “ Propontides."
157
After the cloſe of evening we landed at the port of Prinkipo,
which forms a maritime ſtreet along the ſhore.
We entered the gulf of Iſmìd, or Nicomedia. There are many
bold rocks above the ſurface, and the ſhores at firſt abrupt to the
water's edge; afterward a collection of hills thrown together in
groupes,
and ſhrouded with low wood almoſt to their lofty ſummits.
As night advanced, fires on the diſtant hills, where whole ſtanding
groves are burnt for the purpoſe of making charcoal, produced
ſtriking effect. The gulf reſembles a bold lake, ſtretching in an
oblong direction for more than thirty miles, and contracting gradu-
ally to a point, upon which the city of Nicomedia is founded. On
our left was Lybiffa, celebrated for the tomb of Hannibal, and
Buyuk-hiffar, a conſiderable ruin ; when, paſſing the port of Aſtacus,
we arrived at Nicomedia late at night, after a voyage of twenty
hours.
Nicomedes, the ſon and ſucceſſor of the treacherous Pruſias, king
of Bithynia, was invited to this ſpot by the fingular advantages of its
ſituation, and founded the city, giving it his own namek. The ex-
iſtence of famous cities may be compared to the lives of heroes; the
fame circumſtances contribute to their origin and their deſtruction,
and the period of decay and oblivion awaits them both.
Nicomedia flouriſhed chiefly under the emperors, after Bithynia
became a province of Rome, when the eſtabliſhment of public games,
and their dedication of a temple, during his life, to Auguſtus, ſecured
his patronage, and extended their own fame. In the next age, they
t Juftin. 1. xxxv.
Cellarii Orb. Defcript. v. i. p. 175. Strabo, 1. xii. p. 563.
i Dion, Cafii, l. ii.
158
obtained, under Trajan, permiſſion to increaſe the uſeful and orna-
mental buildings of their city, at the inſtance of Pliny the younger,
then governor of the province; and a forum, an aqueduct, and a
temple, were conſtructed m. In his epiſtles to that emperor he de-
ſcribes a dreadful conflagration, which conſumed the ſenatc-houſe,
and
many
ſtreets".
The Nicomedians aſſumed the moſt honourable title that'a Gre-
cian city could bear, and claimed to be conſidered as the metropolis
of Bithyniaº. It appears upon the coins ſtruck during the reigns of
M. Aurelius, Commodus, Valerian, Caracalla, and Gordian, as they
had gained the privilege of dedicating three temples to Auguſtus, to
Commodus, and Caracalla, the laſt of which was completed under
Valerian P.
But the ſplendour of Nicomedia was imperfect till Dioclefian re-
folved that it ſhould rival Rome. By his bounty and taſte it ap-
peared in a few years with a magnificence which ſeemed to require
whole ages to accompliſhi, and became inferior only to Rome, Alex-
andria, and Antioch, in extent and populouſneſs.
In the year 303, when he commanded the perſecution of the
Plinii Secundi, Epift. I. x. ep. 46.
* Ejufdem, ep. xlii.--where he ſpeaks of it as “ vaſtiſſimum incendium.”
1
TPIE NENKOPI. Occonis de Neocoris, p. 467, 566.
The title of Nɛcxopor was an appellation given only to thoſe cities in which public
games in honour of the gods were celebrated, and which had their chief temple. It an-
fwers to the “ Sacrorum procuratores” of the Romans.
1
P The braſs coins of the Nicomedians are the more rarc. Pinkerton on Coins, v. ii.
Collectio Ainſleian, t. ii. p. 132. Dal Abbate Seſtini, 4to. 1787.
+
159
Chriſtians, the great church, which towered above the palace, on an
eminence in the moſt populous and beautiful part of the city, and
had long excited the envy and indignation of the Pagans, in a few
hours was levelled with the ground 4.
The palace contained the court of ſeveral of the emperors, and
was their chief reſidence. It was the ſcene of thoſe cruelties, and
that infamous luxury, which diſgraced the government of Maximin
and Licinius; of the baptiſm of Conſtantine, and his death. It was
here that Julian was educated under Eufebius the biſhop, and at
twenty years of age read the goſpel publicly in the church", ,
After the removal of the ſeat of empire to Conſtantine's new city,
Nicomedia gradually declined, the inhabitants migrated, and the pa-
laces fell to ruin.
Under the Greek emperor Andronicus it was beſieged by Of-
man, without ſucceſs, but yielded to the ſuperior force of Orchan,
who appointed Suleyman his ſon governor. He converted all the
churches into moſques, and the largeſt, a ſplendid pile, into a college
for the ſtudy of the law of Inamiſmº
Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. ii. p. 159, 468. Laclantii, c. xii.
r Gibbon, v. ii. p. 243; v. iii. 110, 275; v. iv. 65. The ſuburban palace in which
the emperor Conſtantine died was called " Aquyrion,” v. iii. p. 128, 8vo.
Libanius ſpeaks of a ſuperb theatre and a circus, with walls more ſolid than thoſe of
Babylon, which were overturned by an earthquake at Nicomedia, which happened in 358.
Libanius was a celebrated orator and ſophiſt who reſided at Nicomedia. His Epiſtles,
remarkable for their conciſeneſs and elegance, were publiſhed at Amſterdam in 1738, fol.
“ Libanii Sophiftæ Epiſtolæ Græce & Latine ex editione Johan. Chriſtoph. Wolfi.”
s Knowles's Hift. of the Turks, edit. Rycaut, v. i. p. 127. Cantemir, &c. by Tindal,
b. i. p. 24.
160
Arrian, a philoſopher and hiſtorian, who flouriſhed at Rome in
the time of Hadrian and Antoninus, and who wrote the expedition
of Alexander, was born at Nicomedia!
We were accommodated in the convent of St. Baſil, a ſmall
houſe with an egumenos, or principal, and ſix brethren. Modern
Iſmid is of inconſiderable extent, climbing from the ſhore, in a tri-
angular form, almoſt to the ſummit of the hill, where the ancient
Acropolis is ſtill marked by walls and fallen towers. Upon an eaſy
terrace riſes the Elki-ferai, the palace probably built by Diocleſian :
it is diſcoverable by many veſtiges, as perfect as when ſeen by Buſbe-
quius in the ſixteenth century“. Many broken columns of marble
and porphery lie ſcattered amidſt a luxuriant grove of cypreſs.
--Non plebeias luctus teſtata cupreſſus.
LUCAN.
La Mottraye", an intelligent traveller of the laſt age, remarks,
* Arriani Nicomedenſis Alexandri expeditionis, I. vii. Hiſtorie Indicæ, operâ 7. Gro-
novii, fol. 1704
“Fuit enim philoſophus ex Nicomediâ oriundus, atque Adriano ac
Antonino imperatoribus Romæ clarus, novus Xenophon cognomento indigitatus." Catanæi
comment. in Plinii epiſtolas.
u Pierre Belon (in his “ Voyage," 8vo. 1555) mentions the caſtle. « Il n'y a pas
plus de trois toiſes de diſtance d'un tour des murailles du chaſteau juſques a l'autre, tant il
etoit de grand fortereſſe." c. lxxi.
“ Venimus Nicomediam, vetus et famâ clarum opidum, in quo nihil vidimus ſpec-
tatû dignum, præter parietinas et rudera, hoc eſt, epiſtyliorum & columnarum fragmenta
ſola ex veteri fplendore reliqua. Arx eſt integrior in colle ſita. Paulo antequain eo ve-
niremus cx candido inarmorc murus fub terrâ fodientibus detectus fuerat, pars, ut opinor
antiquæ rcgum Bithyniæ domûs.” Aug. Buſbequii Epift. p. 77, 12mo. 1633.
s Voyage De la Mottraye, &c. v. i. p. 288, 4to. 1727.
161
that inſcriptions were rarely diſcoverable, though Grcloty alludes to
many, without reciting them?
The earthquake in 358 9 was ſucceeded by another of ſtill greater
devaſtation four years after; and though the emperor Julian contri-
buted very liberally towards the reſtoration of the city, it appears to
have gradually declined, even before the removal of the ſeat of the
eaſtern empire to Conſtantinople.
At an early hour we took horſes from Nicomedia, and deter-
mined on our route to Smyrna, through Bithynia, Olympena, Lydia,
and Ionia.
After proceeding about two miles we halted, for ſome minutes,
at the head of the gulf, which here expands itſelf into a vaſt ſheet of
water, environed by hills :-a ſpot exhibiting a ſublime combination
of mountain ſcenery, wood, and water.
Upon the right hand the town of Nicomedia, or Iſmidt, com-
pletely ſeen, ſtretches, with its handſome moſque, along the ſhore,
y Relation nouvelle d'un Voyage de Conftantinople par M. Grelot, 4to. 1689.
z Over a dry fountain we obſerved, on a marble tablet, ATP. IIATAEIN. but the re-
mainder, of ſome length, is too much obliterated for tranſcription. He was probably the
Roman præfect of the city.
a
" Inter monumenta tamen multiformium æruinnarum eininuêre Nicomediæ
clades." Amm. Marcellinus, 1. xxii. c. 8. “ Ann. 362 reliqua Nicomediae collapſa eſt
terræ motu, itidemque Nicææ portio non mediocris.” Ibid. 1. xxii. c. 14. The par-
tiality of the emperor Julian to the place of his early education, and his viſit to it after the
firſt-named calamity, are thus dramatically deſcribed. Cujus mænia cum vidiſſet in
favillas miſerabiles conſediſſe, angorem animi tacitis flctibus indicans, pigriori gradu per-
gebat ad regiam.” 1. xxii, c. 9.
Y
1
162
and covers the ſwelling bank above it; and on the left is the chain
of Bithynian mountains partly inveloped in the clouds; which, in-
deed, it ſhould be obſerved, in this country are ſometimes attracted
low towards the earth.
Behind us was a ſpacious plain, where, during the Roman gó-
vernment, many legions were uſually incamped, and where the em-
peror Diocleſian, by a very refined policy, declared his abdication of
the purple; and the ceremony was performed in the preſence of the
whole army. He was the firſt potentate. who, enjoying ſuch pleni-
tude of power, had philoſophy enough to offer an example of re-
fignation
At a ſmall bridge we diſcovered a ſtone ſet upſide down, with an
inſcription`, which gives a pleaſing inſtance of conjugal attachment;
and in a field a little farther, the lid of a ſarcophagus, richly ſculp-
tured, and very large.
We now made the whole tour of the gulf, through the villages
of Olvadjik and Dermenderèfly, under the impending hills: fome-
times through foreſt ſcenery, or orchards of quinces and vineyards.
Nothing can exceed the richneſs of compoſition or of colouring, ex-
hibiting maſſes of varying green and bare purple rocks; the road not
unfrequently leading into the very waves, and always on the brink.
We paſſed Eraclei, and faw, at a ſmall diſtance, Giaur Eraclei, a
b Gibbon, v. ii. p. 173.
c SOCRATES. VIVVS. SIBI. ET. AELIAE.
MARITAE. HOC. MONVMENTVM. FECIT.
ΣΟΚΡΑΤΗΣ. ΞΩΝ. ΣΕΑΥΤΩ. ΚΑΙ. ΑΙΛΙΑΙ.
MAPITAI. TOYTO. MNEMEION.
ΚΑΤΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕΝ. .
163
charming village upon a cliff (ſo called as being inhabited by Greeks),
upon which it is probable that the acropolis and temple of Hercules
once ſtoodd. The ancient city of Heraclea was ſpread round its ac-
clivities, and included likewiſe the ſite of the Turkiſh village on the
ſtrand. We continued a winding courſe for two hours farther, and
entered Kara Murſal as the ſun was ſetting.
Aſcending the heights of Argenthon, thickly ſhrouded with
dwarf oak and arbutus, with a few lofty cheſnut trees, we had a
commanding view of the whole circuit of the gulf, and obſerved the
mouth of it, very ſingularly formed by a flat, jutting ſhore, called
Gloffè, long, extremely narrow, and reſembling an artificial mole.
The inhabitants of Tavouſhandjìl, a village on the higheſt ſummit,
are employed to give notice of the firſt appearance of the moon in
Rammezàn, and are exempted from taxes in conſideration of that
ſervice. The deep dells are ſtrikingly contraſted with bare heath,
being at all ſeaſons equally verdant. We halted at Kyzdrovenè, .a
large village of Greeks and Armenians. The ſame mountainous
tract continues; following a ſingle rugged path, we truſted intirely
to the horſes. Upon an eminence ſcarcely acceſſible, amidſt the
crags, two miles to the left, is a Greek convent.
Such ſpots were
uſually ſelected for religious retirement.
Previous to deſcent we had a noble view of the lake Aſcanius, or
Iſnik; and around a ſedgy plain, at the head of it, is a ſkreen of
wooded hills, little inferior in ſize or effect to thoſe which incircle
the Nicomedian gulf.
A city founded by the inhabitants of Sinope, originally colonized by the Mileſians.
Strabo, l. xii. p. 452. By Xenophon (Anabus, p. 358) ſaid to be a colony of the Me-
garæans.
C
D'Obſon, v. iii. p. 25.
164
The plain beneath was the frequent ſccnc of military tranſactions,
during the fiege of Nicæa by Suleyman, when the croiſaders were
completely cverthrown. It is ſaid to have held a greater number
than were ever collected within the lines of a ſingle camp. Here
Bayazid' was defeated by Tamerlane, and driven to Bruſa. A ſtorm,
which had been long gathering with great effect of light and ſhade,
now overtook us, and a tremendous war of elements enſued. It
prevented our obſerving the obeliſk 5.
Skirting the ſands of the lake for two miles, the maſſive walls of
ancient Nicæa appeared in front; and we entered an aperture over-
hung with ivy, and at that inſtant diſplayed by a broad glare of
lightning. During the night the thunder increaſed, with ſlight
thocks of an earthquake.
The walls are conſtructed with thin brick and courſes of
marble, having frequent towers, many of which form an imperfect
· The ten hiſtorians of the croiſades relate much concerning the ſieges which Nicæa
has ſuſtained at different periods.
The croiſaders under the conduct of Walter the Pennyleſs were defeated by Suley-
man on the plain before Nicæa, and a pyramid made of their bones. Gibbon, v. xi. p. 28.
f Modern Univerſal Hiſtory, vol. v. p. 342 (Y) 343.
8 Pococke (" Deſcription of the Eaſt,” fol. 1745) mentions the “ Beſh-taſhler,"
five ſtones ſo called, becauſe the obeliſk is compoſed of that number of pieces. It is tri-
angularly formed, of groy marble, and was intendedas a ſepulchral monument for one of
the principal inhabitants of Nicæa, C. Caffius Philiſcus, the ſon of C. Caffius Aſclepio-
dorus, aged eighty-three years, as the Greek inſcription imports.
Bufequius (Epiſt. p. 79) obſerves, “ Jacet Nicæa in ripa lacus Aſcanii, oppidi ejus
mania et portæ fatis integræ funt. Quatuor ſunt omnino quæ ex medio foro defpici
poſſunt, in quarum ſingulis veteres ſunt inſcriptiones Latinæ, quæ ab Antonino Imperatore
urbem cam inſtauratam teſtantur.” Such might have been viſible in the ſixteenth cen-
tury, but are now totally obliterated.
165
ſquarc, open on the inſide. They are inferior in extent only to
thoſe of Conſtantinople. Some are diſmantled, but not in ſuch
a degree as that their continued outline and incloſure ſhould be
deſtroyed. Near the north gate are many yards of the original wall
of hewn marble; the adjoining towers are more large and lofty, which
formed the citadel. The preſent fortifications are the works of the
ſucceſſive poſſeſſors of the city. It is neither eaſy, nor would it be
candid, to determine whether Laſcaris, the croiſaders, or the ſultans
erected them, with the choiceſt ſpoils of antiquity, who were forced
to confound ſuch reliques, however beautiful, if they were large
enough to complete the pile. Three of the ancient triumphal gates
have been incorporated into the preſent walls, which are ſeemingly
of impregnable thickneſs; a foſs is connected with the outward wall,
and many towers of great height, ſome of which have chambers
within, and are wrought into ſecret receſſes, and amongſt them
is found both the ſemicircular and polygonal form. The area of
irregular ſhape, approaching to a ſquare, exceeds three miles in
circuith.
The original name of this city was Antigonia, given by the
founder Antigonus; but after the death of Alexander, Lyſimachus,
increaſing its extent, changed it for that of his wife, Nicæa'.
Prior to the reign of Trajan, Nicæa had gained a certain degree
of magnificence. We learn from Pliny, that a theatre, or gymna-
ſium, was begun at the expence of one hundred ſeſterces, that
Tel2 million
( 80,000
h The lofty and ſolid walls of Nicæa were covered by a deep ditch, and flanked by
three hundred and ſeventy towers. Gibbon, v. xi. p. 58. Strabo, l. xii. p. 389, fixes
their extent in his time at ſixteen ſtadia, or two miles.
I Knowles's Hift. of the Turks, v. i. p. 11. Strabo, l. xii. p. 389.
1.66
it was incomplete, and would require the emperor's aſſiſtance to
finiſh itk
After Conſtantine had embraced chriſtianity, Nicæa became the
apoſtolic fee; and his council held in 325 againſt the doctrine of
Arius, and for the promulgation of a creed, is a memorable epocha
of the church. The ſecond aſſembled againſt the Iconoclaſts in 787
was attended with as violent conſequences.
The Roman army in the eaſt had long choſen this city as their
chief garriſon, and met here in 364, upon the death of Jovian, to
elect an emperor, when Valentinian was conducted to the palace'.
The honour of being ſtyled the metropolis of Bithynia was tranſ-
ferred from it to Nicomedia; upon which account an inveterate
conteſt ſubſiſted between the two cities, as neither of them would
relinquiſh the title m.
1000,000
k Plinius Trajano.
“ Theatrum, domine, Nicææ maxima jam parte conſtructum, imperfectum tamen,
ſeſtertiùin ut audio (neque enim ratio plus excuffa eſt) amplius centies hauſit vereor ne
fruftra.-Jidem Nicæenſes, gymnaſium incendio amniffum, ante adventum meum reſti-
tuere cæperunt,” &c. l. x. ep. 48. Strabo, I. xii. p. 566.
1
1 Gibbon, v. iv. p. 235, 239.
m Notwithſtanding the priority of Nicomedia adjudged by Auguſtus, the Nicæans
ſtill call themſelves “ T25 TPW Tes TNS ETAPXias.” On a coin of Antoninus Pius, Nicomedia
is ſtyled NIKOMEAIAS. METPON. HIPOTHC. The Cilbiani in Lydia were a colony of
the Nicæans. Abbè Seftini (Colle&t. Anſleian. t. iv. p. 120) mentions a coin of Caracalla,
reverſe, Æſculapius and Hygeia ſtanding with their attributes NIKAINN. TAN. EN.
ΚΙΛΒΙΑΝΩΝ. .
Nicæa and Nicomedia were both ravaged and burned by the Goths in their firſt in-
curſion into the Aſiatic provinces. Zojimi Imp. Roman. 1. i. p. 82.
167
Soon after the Turks became a powerful nation, Suleyman, upon
his invaſion of Roum, or Aſia Minor, eſtabliſhed a palace and fortreſs,
as the ſeat of his new empire, at Nicæa, and ordained the religion of
Mohammed". But their tenure was of ſhort duration ; for after the
fiege in 1097, which laſted ſeven weeks, it was regained by the
Chriſtians'. When Conſtantinople was taken by the French and
Venetians, in their ſubſequent partition of the empire, Nicæa became
a duchy, with an extenſive feigniory, held by the counts of Blois P.
The Nycæan dynaſty was erected by Theodore Laſcaris under
the ſtyle firſt of deſpot and then of emperor, and he eſtabliſhed his
court here from 1204 to 1222. His territory extended from the
banks of the Mæander to the ſuburbs of Nicomedia, and at length
to Conftantinople; and he poſſeſſed the rich cities of Bruſa, Phila-
delphia, Smyrna, and Epheſus 9.
n Tafo, in ſeveral inſtances mentions Suleyman as “ di Nicea tiranno."
" Queſto fu re de' Turchi, et in Nicea
“ La ſede di l'imperio aver ſolea.”
Cant. ix. ſt. 3.
• In this fiege by the Latin princes, all the arts and engines of antiquity were cm-
ployed. Alexius the Greek emperor tranſported boats, on ſledges, from the ſea to the
Jake Afcanius, filled with the moſt dexterous archers, which, under Count Rayinond, oc-
cafioned its being taken.” Gibbon, v. xi. p. 59.
“ Nicæa taken July 5, 1097, after a ſiege of fifty days, and reſtored to the emperor
Alexius." Knowles, y. i. p. II.
Gibbon, v. xi. p. 251.
9 Theodore Laſcaris was ſucceeded by John Ducas Vataces, who had married his
daughter Irene. He had a triumphant reign of thirty-three years, and recovered the iſland
of Leſbos from the Venetians. Theodore his ſon reigned only from 1255 to 1259, when
he became a monk, and wrote tracts of divinity. John his grandſon attended the corona-
168
In a few years Nicæå yielded to the victorious armies of Oſman,
but he failed in his endeavours to retain it; for in 1330 the reign of
his ſon Orchan was firmly decided'. His court was then kept in
the ancient palace, with all the ſplendour of an Afiatic prince, and
he ſeems to have conſulted the arts of peace in the foundation of a
ſumptuous moſque, and two monaſteries of religious muſulmans,
which is the firſt inſtance upon record'. In 1397, upon the defeat
of Bayazid, Nicæa was inveſted and taken by Tamerlane; and it ſtill
maintained its rank as one of the chief cities of Anatolia'. The pa-
lace with its appendages remained till the concluſion of the next
century, when Bayazid II. in 1481, making a feigned reſignation of
the empire to his fon Korcood, propoſed to reſide there in privacy for
the remainder of his life u.
Such a ſketch of the annals of this once magnificent city may
tend to increaſe an intereſt in its preſent fallen and melancholy
ſtate.
That its walls alone exiſt, of all the ſplendid edifices of its firſt
maſters, ſtrongly excites the idea of deſolation; and that even thoſe
tion of Michael Palæologus in the cathedral at Nicæa, but was afterward blinded and ba-
niſhed to a ſolitary caſtle, where he ſpent many years of oblivion.” Ibid. v. xi. p. 322,
326.
* Knowles, v. i. p. 99, 126, 128.
Cantemir, I. i. p. 26, ſays that " it rivalled Conſtantinople in the number of its in-
habitants."
s Knowles, v. i. p. 127.
' In 1402, at the defeat of Bayazid, “ Nicæa was, even yet, a fair and flouriſhing
city." Gibbon, v. xii. p. 29; Knowles, p. 220, ſays in 1397. Bayazid died in 1399.
Cantemir, b. iii. p. 118.
169
of the Turks are blended in the common ruin, confirms it to an ex-
treme degree.
Modern Iſnik is a wretched village of long lanes and mud walls,
with ſpacious ruins of Greek churches, and even of moſques and
baths of Turkiſh architecture, embofomed in groves of luxuriant
cypreſs. The great moſque, with its adjoining buildings erected by
Orchan, exhibits a vaſt ruin near the village, which occupies the
centre of the area, now interſperſed with plantations of tobacco and
melons.
+
2
!
We began our walk at the firſt, or eaſtern gate, which has no
oppoſite one worth examining, at the point where the lake Aſcanius
approaches the city. Three portals are paſſed in ſucceſſion at ſome
yards diſtance. They were certainly built in haſte, or were very rudely
connected with the original entrance. Whenever they were erected,
no regard was paid to the preſervation of fragments of ancient archi-
tecture, which are indiſcriminately blended with many parts, to
which the preſent ſituation of the inſcription bears no relation. The
friſes are ſpecimens of elegant deſign. On either ſide of the outer
portal is inſerted an altar about ſix feet high, and a bas relief of mean
workmanſhip. The middle gate is the moſt perfect, and appears to
have been erected for a triumph, as may be preſumed from the in-
ſcription relative to Trajan, who was the friend of the Nicæans.
The arch is now ſunk by the great incumbent weight, and is
overwhelmed by maſſes heaped together for the purpoſe of for-
tification.
x “ Nicææ fequente die manfimus. Puto me eadem in aula quieviſſe, in quâ olim
habitum fuit concilium.” Aug. Buſbeq. ep. i. p. 79.
Strabo, Ι. xii. p. 389. « Νικαία η μετροπόλις της Βιθυνιας επι τη Λοκάνιη λιμνη.
Plin. Hift. Nat. l. vi. c. 37.
Z
170
The ſecond, or northern gate, called karadàn capeſsì, opening to
the plain, has likewiſe three diviſions. Within is a colloſſal gorgon's
head; the middle is a very plain portal with fide gates and niches;
and the outer is compoſed of three vaſt columns of porphery, ten
feet in length, one of which ſerves for the impoſt. On one ſide is
carved a groupe, being a combat of horſemen; on the other, ſeveral
female figures are worthy of particular attention. Little doubt can
be entertained but that theſe walls were conſtructed from the ſpoils
of an adjacent temple.
The ſouth gate is more ruinous, having the middle portal only
perfect, of the plaineſt architecture, with an inſcription on a rude
ſtone, evidently removed from another place.
We could not diſcover the fite of the great church, which was
rendered ſo famous for the two councils, but we examined the re-
maining part of another, the central dome of which is broken in, and
expoſed to the air. The pavement is of marble, bordured with tef-
ſaræ, and the fractured cupola ſtill exhibits whole figures of moſaic
compoſed of a vitrified ſubſtance, and gilded, or of lively colours, re-
preſenting faints. In the adjoining cemetery is a ſmall marble with
the bas relief of an armed ſoldier, and an inſcription %.
r
Y INSCRIPTIONS AT NICÆA.
1.
.::ΤΩ. ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩ. ΤΩΝ. ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ ΝΕΙΚΑΙΑΣ.
M. IIATAS ::::::::
::::::::: ΚΑΣΣΟΥ. ΚΡΗΣΤΟΥ
ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΙ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩ. ΔΗΜΑΡΚΙΚΗΣ. ΕΞΟΥΣΙΑΣ.
2.
:::::ΑΤΟΡΩΝ. ΟΙΚΟΥ. ΚΑΙ.
. . .
:::ΤΟΣ. ΚΑΘΙΕΡΩΣΕΝ. ΕΠΙΜΕΛΗΘΕΝΤΟΣ.
ΘΕΟΥ ΤΡΑΙΑΝΟΥ. Γ. ::: ΟΙΚΟΥ ΑΠΟΘΕΟΥ.
. .
ΝΕΡΒΟΥΑΓΙΩ. ΤΩ ΤΡΑΙΑΝΩ, ΑΡ. ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩ.
ΔΗΜΑΡΚΙΚΗΣ. ΕΞΟΥΣΙΑΣ.
::ΑΠΟ ΔΙΟΝΥΣΟΥ...
171
At mid-day we purfued our journey; and having gained the
higheſt point of the mountain, ſublime ſcenery was diſplayed in
every diſtance, and the ſteeps were covered with ſhrubs of dark ver-
dure, fo compact as to have the richneſs of velvet, with bold crags of
grey granite in contraſt.
The lake Aſcanius below is nine miles long, with winding ſhores,
and four broad in the wideſt part, with the walls of Nicæa at the
head; and it is aſſerted that many ruins may be ſeen at the bottom
3.
(Deeft nomen viri laudati.)
ΧΙΛΙΑΡΧΟΝ. ΛΕΓ. ΙΛ. ΓΕ ΜΙΝ.
ΧΕΙΛΙΑΡΧΟΝ. ΛΕΓ. ΙΕ. ΕΠΙΤΡ. (οσον)
ΤΩΝ. ΣΕΒ. ΕΠΑΡΧΕΙΑΣ. ΓΑΛΛΙΑΣ.
ΑΚΥΙΤΑΝΙΚΗΣ. ΕΠΙΚΗΝΣΩΝ.
ΕΠΙΤΡ. ΕΠΑΡΚΕΙΑΣ ΜΥΣIΛΣ
:::ΕΚΑΤΟ. ΕΠΙΤΡ. ΕΠΑΡΚΕΙΑΣ.
::::::ΚΗΣ. ΕΠΙΤΡ. ΔΟΥΚ. ΕΠΑΡ.
::::::ΤΑΣ ΔΑΛΜΑΤΙΑΣ. ΚΑΙ. ΙΣΤΡΙ.
ΑΣ. ΕΠΙΤΡ. ΔΟΥΚΗΝΑΡΙΟΝ.
ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΕΙΑΣ. ΤΟΥ. ΙΛΙΟΥ.
(ανδρα τσαντος αξιον) ΛΟΓΟΥ.
(και εσα) IΝΟΥ. ΑΚΥΙΛΛΙΟΣ. ΑΡΧΕΛΑΟΣ ΤΟΝ.
(εαυτ) ΟΥ. ΦΙΛΟΝ. ΚΑΙ. ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΗΝ.
4.
REMOVED FROM THE FRONT OF A TEMPLE.
: ΛΥΓΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΙ. ΚΑΙΣΑΡΙ. Μ. ΑΥΡΕΛΙΩ. ΚΛΑΥΔΙΩ. ΚΑΙ. ΤΗ, ΙΕΡΑ. ΣΥΝΚΛΗΤΩ.
ΥΠΑΤΙΚΟΥ. ΟΥΤΕΛΛΙΟΥ. ΜΑΚΡΕΙΝΟΥ. ΠΡΕ. (σζευοντος).
5.
IN THE CEMETERY.
CΤΡΟΝΙΚΗ. CΚΟΡΠΩ. ΙΔΙΩ.
ΑΝΔΡΙ. ΕΚ. ΤΩΝ. ΙΔΙΩΝ. ΜΝΗΜΗΣ.
ΚΑΡΙΝ ::::
In the Colle&tion. Anfeian. v. ii. p. 169, are coins of Alexander and Gordian with re-
verſes NIKAIN, and legionary eagles between military enſigns.
172
of the water. The banks in general are tame, and for a ſmall ſpace
marſhy; the acclivities on the ſouth-caſt ſeeming to retire to ſome
diſtance.
When Pliny was inveſted with the government of this province,
his attention was much engaged in public works. He projected a
canal from the lake to the gulf of Nicomedia ; and intimates that
ſome of the kings of Bithynia had attempted the fame ſcheme. In
his letters to the emperor Trajan he frequently urges the completion
of magnificent works under the imperial auſpices, and demands that
architects and ſuperintendants ſhould be ſent from Rome, as compe-
tent perſons were not to be found in the country?
It is amuſing to inveſtigate the private life of thoſe amongſt the
ancients whoſe labours of genius have given them a laſting fame.
The elegant Catullus, we find, travelled over Aſia Minor in purſuit
of thoſe ſciences and accompliſhments which were then profeffed in
the Grecian academies. He paſſed ſome time at Nicæa, which was
then the reſort of philoſophers. In the beautiful little poem written
upon his return, in which he recounts the countries he had viſited,
he mentions,
" Nicææque ager uber æſtuofæe:”
and
« Vix mi ipfi credens Thynniam atque Bithynos,
Liquiſſe camposa.
ar
z Plinius Trajano.
“ Ett in Nicomedenfium finibus ampliſſimus lacus, per hunc marmora fractus, &c.
ad mare devehuntur. Hoc opus multas manus pofcit, at hæ porro non defunt, ſupereſt ut
tu libratorem vel architectum mittas, &c. Ego per cadem loca invenio foſfam a rege
percuffam, &c." 1. x. ep. 50.
a He ſpeaks likewiſe of the “catagraphi thyni,” a gold ring, having an engraved
hcad in profile, invented and worn by the Bithynians.
173
Two of the moſt valuable of the Byzantine hiſtorians reſided at
Nicæa, Nicætas Choniates, and George Acropolita, logothete to
Theodore Laſcaris II. The former continues the hiſtory of the
eaſtern empire from the period at which Zonaras concludes to the
taking of Conſtantinople by Baldwyn earl of Flanders in 1203, and
1. the latter immediately follows to the reign of the laſt Baldwyn.
The deſcent from the heights is comparatively gradual to a plain
three miles diſtant from Bazar-keuy, the low minarèhs of which we
deſcried, with the ſtupendous range of Olympus towering behind
them. We found it no unfavourable ſpecimen of a Turkiſh country
town with the uſual appendages. A village without a minarèh is
deficient in one of its moſt pictureſque features in the offskip; the
roofs of the houſes are too flat and regular to have much effect; they
have ſtill no glaring tint. At ſome diſtance the villages are very en-
gaging from their eligible ſituations, but nothing can be more dif-
guſting than their poverty, when we enter them. Nothing is ſeen
to evince the induſtry and decent habits of a happy peaſantry.
174
:
SECTION XI.
OR
APPROACH TO BRUSA-ANNALS---TOMB OF SULTAN ORCHAN-
ARMENIAN BISHOP-DESCRIPTION OF THE PRESENT CITY-
ANCIENT BATHS-OBSERVATION ON THE EFFECT OF THE AT-
MOSPHERE ON LANDSCAPE-VISIT TO ISAAT EFFENDI AT HIS
CHIFTLIK-ASCENT OF MOUNT OLYMPUS--SKETCH OF THAT
MOUNTAIN-APOLLONIA-SCENERY ON THE LAKE-ULABAD
---
-GREEK CONVENT-PANEGYRIS-DANCES-OF ARIADNE-
PYRHICA SALTATIO-HISTORY AND CASTLE OF ULABAD-
MOUNT TEMNOS-FLOCKS AND SHEPHERDS
-
-VILLAGES OF
TURKS AND ABYSSINIAN SLAVES-BURYING GROUNDS-BALA-
MEDE-LYDIA-PLAIN OF HERMUS OR SARABAT-RIVER FA-
MOUS FOR GOLDEN SANDS-MARAUDERS-TERRITORY OF KARA
OSMAN OGLU-SOME ACCOUNT OF HIM.
-.
The road continued over a wide, ſterile plain, encompaſſed by
mountains, with frequent villages at the baſes, around which the
partial cultivation, contraſted by a torrid champaign country, ſhowed
itſelf to a particular advantage. From a ſmall lake and morafs, we
came to a delightful grove of cheſnuts, with Olympus riſing to our
left. At about three miles, under the higheſt cliff of
grey weather-
worn granite, we caught a firſt view of the city of Bruſa. The en-
trance is exceedingly pictureſque, with the ruins of a palace and
moſque originally built by Bayazid I. and inhabited by his ſucceſſors,
whoſe court was there held; but it is now fallen to decay.
Pruſias king of Bithynia, the ſucceſſor of Zipoetes and the friend
175
of Hannibal, againſt the Romans and the kings of Pergamus, is
eſteemed the founder of Bruſa, where the ſhort ſeries of his ſucceſſors
was eſtabliſhed in regal dignity, till the ſubjugation of the Anatolian
provinces by the Roman arms. Pliny ſolicits the emperor Trajan
for permiſſion to build a public bath upon a grand ſcale, ſuitable to
a well inhabited towna.
Upon the defeat of Vetranio (the aſſociate of Magnentius the
uſurper of Gaul) by the emperor Conſtantius, he was ſuffered to re-
tire to Bruſa, where he lived privately for ſix years b. After the di-
viſion of the empire, it remained in the poſſeſſion of the eaſtern po-
tentates from 947 to 1325, when it was taken, not without a valiant
defence, by the victorious Orchàn, who eſtabliſhed it as the Ottoman
capital. It ſuffered much from the commotions of that rude era,
having been burnt by Timour after his defeat of Bayazid, in 1377;
raſed by Ifà the ſon of Bayazid, and rebuilt by Mohammed II.
taken by Suleymàn his brother; and a ſecond time conſumed by fire
in 1415, by the king of Caramania, during the civil war between
Mohammed and Muſa.
+
;
Its hiſtory, therefore, is chiefly to be collected from Turkiſh annalsa.
a Plinius Trajano de Balineo Pruſenfium.
“ Ego (fi permiſeris) cogito in areâ vacuâ balineum collocare ; eum autem locum
in quo ædificia fuerunt, exedrâ et porticibus amplecti, atque tibi confecrare, cujus bene-
ficio, elegans opus, dignumque nomine tuo fiet." 1. x. ep 75.
The coins of Bruſa, in the reigns of Aurelius, Domitian, and Veſpaſian, bore a fe-
male head turretted, on the reverſe, Venus Pelagia. “ TIPOTSA." Coll. Ainſteian.
• Gibbon, v. iii. p. 151.
• Knowles, v. i. p. 140. Cantemir, 1. i. p. 17.
d Knowles, y. i. p. 152, 164, 169.
176
We firſt inſpected the turbèh, or mauſoleum, of Sultan Orchàn,
conjectured to have once been the metropolitical church, or more
probably that of the great monaſtery converted into a moſque, as it
is called by the Turks “ manyſterè. It exhibits a good ſpecimen of
the architecture of the lower Greek empire. The pillars are of verd
antique and porphery; and ſome of the pannels of the ſide walls are
but ſlightly mutilated; the floor of moſaic, or ſmall teſſellated pieces,
is alternately of ſquares and circles of jaune antique and porphery.
In the veſtibule hangs the tocſin or great drum ſaid to have been
carried before the army of Orchàn at the fiege of Bruſa. It is about
a yard in diameter. The furniture of the tomb has been often re-
newed ſince his death in 1360 f.
We then viſited the Armenian biſhop, who received us with dig-
nity and kindneſs. It is a tenet of their church, that abſtinence in
diet and auſterity of manners ſhould increaſe with preferment; and
the life of a prelate is ſcarcely leſs rigorous than that of a primitive
anchorite. His convent was pillaged to a great amount, and the
church, then nearly rebuilt, burnt, about four months before we ſaw
it, by the Turkiſh populacc, headed by women, and inſtigated by fa-
naticiſm. The lower orders amongſt the Turks are ſtrangers to reli-
Belon, who viſited Bruſa in 1550, remarks that it was then a richer and more po-
pulous city than Conſtantinople. 1. iii. C. 42.
e During the Greek empire there was a large monaſtery at Bruſa, confiſting of fome
hundred monks. Their church was converted by Orchàn into a moſque. Bayazid built
a royal inofque and palace at Bruſa. Knowles, v. i. p. 140. Cantemir, b. i. p. 30.
f The firſt fix ſultans of the empire eſtabliſhed by Oſinin are interred at Bruſa, in
three turbèhs, or mauſoleums. I. Gumuſh-koobèe, where Oſman I. and Orchan are
buried. 2. Djirkirkè, in which are Moràd I, Bayazid, and Moràd II. 3. Yeſhil. Imareh,
which contains the body of Mohammed I. The greateſt ſimplicity, both of architecture
and decoration, is obſervable in theſe tombs. D'Ohjon, v. ii. p. 514.
1
.
177
gious toleration, and the government only ſuffers it by a kind of
connivance, as a vehicle of enormous extortion. As we returned to
our lodgings, we were followed by a handſome preſent of winc.
From thence we went to Iſaat Effendi, a dcpofed magiſtrate of
the town, who invited us to his chiftlik, or country-houſe, to take
the diverſion of hawking.
Bruſa is extenſive and populous; but the ſtreets are narrow, even
for an Aſiatic town. Many houſes are built fo intirely againſt the
hill, that the upper rooms open into gardens. They reckon feventy
moſques, but the greater part are neglected, or abſalutely in ruins ;
and the police is eccleſiaſtics. The bezeſtènh is ample, and one of
the khans is ſingularly commodious.
1
The near reſemblance of one Turkiſh town to another, leaves the
powers of deſcription unexerciſed, as their plan differs only in extent
and accommodation. In European cities, the public buildings, par-
ticularly eccleſiaſtic', are the great features of diſcrimination, but the
g The police of Bruſa is regulated by a magiſtrate of the third rank, who is appointed
by the mufti of the harèm, and called Bruſà muftiſhy. In all caſes of law relative to in-
heritances, his tribunal is that to which reſort muſt be had, and which is deciſive.
D'Ohlſon, v. iv. p. 568.
Cantemir relates the adventure of the ſcheik of Bruſa, Miſr Effendi, during the Ger-
man war in 1692, who, erecting his ſtandard at Bruſa, collected thrce thouſand derviſhes,
and landing at Rodoſto, proceeded to Adrianople, to depoſe the viſier and conclude the
He was treated as a viſionary; and great reſpect paid to him as a very celebrated
poet. b. iv. p. 387. Toderini della Letteratura Turchefca, t. i. p. 205.
war,
h The exchange for merchandize; in which are long ranges of ſhops, under a
covered cloiſter.
Some renown'd mctropolis,
А а.
178
oldeſt moſque has no pretenſions to antiquity, if originally built as
ſuch ; and the diſtant view is varied only by accompaniments and
the natural combinations of landſcape.
The merchandize of raw ſilk, of which Bruſa is a great mart, and
a ſmall manufactory of ſilk ſtuffs, employ the inhabitants, and con-
ſtitute the commerce of the place.
A ſmall diſtance from the city, upon the roots of Olympus, are
ſeven hot baths, all of which have their ſources in a hill much lower
than thoſe which riſe immediately behind it. They are of
They are of very re-
mote antiquity; and by the Greeks were called Calipſa, by the Ro-
mans Baſilicæ.
The moſt diſtant is that on the greateſt eminence,
about two miles off. They are all of conſiderable dimenſions; but
the eſkì capiglì, or old bath, is a ſpacious room with ſtages raiſed on
each ſide, which is ſucceeded by two ſmaller, one as a veſtibule and
dreſſing-room, the other with a dome and colonnade of white mar-
ble, and a circular baſin more than twenty feet in diameter. The
fteam is ſtrongly vitriolic, and intolerably oppreſſive, as confined,
but in the open air conſiderably hotter than any mineral waters in
England k.
“ With gliſtering ſpires and pinnacles adorn’d,
" Which now the riſing ſun gilds with his beams.
Par. Loft, b. iii. 550.
k « Un pocte Turc a fait une infcription en verſe pour les bains de Bruſe qui porte
qui'l ne faut pas étonner ſi le grand nombre de perſonnes nues qui ſe trouvent a ces bains
repreſente aſſez bien le jour de la reſurrection generale, puiſque les ſources de l'eau dans
laquelle ils ſe baignent, n'ont point d'autre origine que les fontaines de paradis.'
D'Herbelot. Biblioth. Orient, t. ii. p. 89.
P. Gyllius (Conft. Top. 1. iv. C. 2) deſcribes the public baths of the Turks with the
greateſt exactneſs; but his account is too long for tranſcription.
179
The view of Bruſa from the neareſt of theſe baths is wonderfully
ſtriking. The great feature is a naked rock, above a torrent bed,
having in ſummer a very diminutive ſtream, and upon which the ci-
tadel of Pruſias was originally founded. Under the Greek emperors
it was a fortreſs, improved by Theodore Laſcaris; and Orchan added
what now remains'. There is a dungeon, or rather dry well, of
tremendous depth, which was uſed by him as a priſon for his captives
of high rank, and to which, even yet, diſhoneſt bakers are condemned
for ſeveral days, in proportion to their offence. This view is peculiar
and beautiful from the ſudden elevation of the back ground, the va-
riety of ſituation in which the houſes are cluſtered, and the rich
verdure of the cheſnut groves and incloſures of white mulberry for the
filk-worms, and which embelliſh the environs for a certain diſtance
with moſt luxuriant vegetation. The whole town, and all its public
buildings, ſhow a general decay, and offer repeated evidences of
former ſplendour.
water.
In a village five miles from Bruſa, we viſited the chiftlik of Iſaat
Effendi, and were introduced to him ſitting in his open
hall. He
was infirm, and very old. Our repaſt was prepared at mid-day,
under a ſhady tree, and conſiſted of pilàv, and rakì diluted with
He was proud to lhew us his horſes and hawks, which were
very fine; but we arrived too late for the amuſement of hawking.
That royal ſport is ſtill followed in a great ſtyle in the provinces;
but the ſultans and the court have long declined it. In the court-
yard ſtood that curious machine called a cochèe, or Turkiſh coach,
for the conveyance of his harèm, which conſiſted of four
young
la-
dies. It reſembles a hen-coop, painted and gilded, and ſet on a
heavy carriage without ſprings.
1 Belon fays, that the ſword of Orlando was ſuſpended in the gate of the caſtle, and
conſidered as a relique by the Turks.
-
180
1
The evening view of Bruſa was brilliantly lighted up by the glow
of the ſetting fun. The horizon was intirely of the moſt tranſparent
azure, and the ſkirting clouds were light and flcecy, ſuſpended con-
ſiderably below the bare cliffs. Nothing could exceed the clearneſs
of tint which pervaded every part of this lively landſcape. From
the extreme m thinneſs of the air, very diſtant objects are brought ſo
much more forward than in England, that they appear with luſtre;
and the hazineſs with which even a confined view is frequently ob-
ſtructed, is almoſt unknown here.
The next morning we commenced the aſcent of mount Olympus,
one of the moſt arduous that can be imagined. It is a collection of
vaſt mountains, about forty miles in circumference, heaped one on
another, rather than a ſingle maſs; and may be divided into three
regions. The firſt abounds in mulberry and various ſhrubs; we then
came to a cheſnut grove, which leads to a plain, and is the ſummit
immediately viſible from the vale below. The ancient inhabitants
inſtituted orgies in honour of Hylas, the favourite of Hercules, and
ran about this foreſt calling as if in ſearch of him". Wandering
hordes of ſhepherds of the Turcoman race, with their temporary vil-
lages, frequently occupy theſe heights. Advancing a mile or two,
we entered a grove of pine and ſilver fir, and the greater part having
been lately burnt, exhibited a very ſombre appearance. Indeed, with
any but Turcoman horſes the acceſs would be abſolutely impractica-
ble, but their ſteadineſs and agility is wonderful. The ſecond region
of level ground was at length gained, which is covered with huge
The pure marble air.”
Par. Loft, b. iii. I. 464.
η « Και νύν δ'έπι και εορτή τις άγεται παρα πρασιεύσιν, και ορειβάσια θιασευόντων, και
καλαντων Yλαν, ώς αν κατά ζήτησιν την εκεινε πεσόιημέων την επι τας ύλας εξοδόν.”
Strabo, 1. xii. p. 564.
181
fragments of rock, worn ſmooth, of granite, marble, and talk.
There are innumerable buſhes of juniper.
" Stant et juniperi et caftaneæ hirſutæ.”
VIRG.
The diſtance from Bruſa now exceeded ten miles; and the greater
part of this formidable tract is as ſteep as the common elevation of a
flight of ſteps. Excepting where it leads through groves, the path is
upon the brink of an abyſs fo profound that the eye can ſcarcely
perceive the baſes of the frequent defiles, which interſect each other.
The epithet of " many-vallied,” which Homer applies to the Theſ-
falian Olympus, is equally deſcriptive of this mountainº. Of lofty
views, few from mere height are ſuperior: it commands the fea of
Marmara, with the domes of Conſtantinople occaſionally to be ſeen,
the gulf of Modania, the lake of Apollonia, and the dividing chain of
Bithynian mountains, which, without exaggeration, dwindle into
mere hillocks. Compariſon is here our only ſcale of menſuration,
and where chain is thus linked to chain, an attempt to be exact is
unattainable, and would be endleſs. A level plain extends for ſome
miles, when farther to the ſouth-eaſt another mountain, of volcanic
ſhape, having a crater, crowns this immenſe accumulation, and com-
pletes one of the higheſt ſummits in the world. Immediately under
it is a large pool, which produces a delicate fiſh called the alabalùk,
ο «Πρώτησι δε πύλησι πολυστύχο Ούλυμποιο."
İliad, l. vii. v. 411.
Shakeſpeare's defcription in Hamlet, is as literally applicable.
Mercury,
“ New lighted on a heaven-kiſſing hill:
or the ſkyiſh head
“ Of blue Olympus."
A
182
reſerved for the fultan's table. We did not advance farther than the
ſecond region; where, it muſt be ſaid, that the objects become ſo
remote and diminiſhed that the landſcape is only curious, and would
not, independently conſidered, anſwer the fatigue and danger of ſuch
a journey, or reward the toil of a painful perpendicular march of ſo
many miles.
Our route conducted us through the lower diviſion of Bithynia,
called Olympena, over a vaſt plain with ſcanty plats of corn, at beſt
but cultivated drearineſs, parched, and totally unpictureſque. At
four hours' progreſs we ſaw the lake of Apollonia, and turning
round, the whole of mount Olympus blended in one maſs; and the
third region, although ſo diſtant from the others, ſeemingly incor-
porated with them.
The whole was beautifully illuminated for the inſtant, but very
foon enveloped with clouds. We rode round the fedges, the refuge
of many ſpecies of wild fowl, which are feldom interrupted, and
hover about, as if conſcious of ſecurity. The peaſants were buſied
in gathering the reeds, which, when dried, are uſed for the roofs of
their cottages.
Apollonia is now a miſerable village upon a rocky peninſula of
inconſiderable height, which is connected by a wooden bridge, inſu-
lated in winter, and enjoying a ſingularly pleaſant ſituation. Few
large veſtiges of the ancient city now remain, nor are more of a mi-
nuter fort to be diſcerned by the moſt induſtrious traveller. At the
gate is an inſcription, with feſtoons of vine leaves, and the caput
bovis on an elegant friſe ? Upon the eminence about a furlong
Ρ ΚΑΙΣΑΡ. ΤΡΑΙΛΝΟΣ. ΑΥΓΥΣΤΟΣ ΘΕΟΥ ::: NΕ ΤΗ ΠΟΛΕΙ, ΚΛ:::
183
diſtant, are foundations and broken members of architecture of tem-
ples (perhaps that of Apollo) and other public buildings.
In Aſia are ſeveral cities of this name; and of this in particular
the
page of hiſtory offers but imperfect information. It is ſaid to
owe its origin to a colony of Cyzicus. Under the Roman govern-
ment it arrived at a certain degree of conſequence; and coins are
extant which have been ſtruck there. Medals frequently aſcertain
ſuch points of hiſtory, when other documents would be conſulted
without fatisfaction.
The lake is of an irregular ſhape, of greater length than breadth,
from fifteen to twenty miles round, then much agitated, but always
turbid from the influx of the Ryndacus. Some high ground already
mentioned commands the whole ſcope of it, which is ſuperior in ef-
fect to thoſe already ſeen, as the ſix iſlands are large, and form ſeveral
diviſions, which produce an appearance of the embouchures of
great
rivers, and give an air of variety to the view. The ſouthern banks,
lofty and cloſely wooded, are not from the extent of the water ſo far
removed as to be no longer accompaniments. Under certain com-
binations of tint, there are few pieces of lake ſcenery that exhibit
9 Ptolemæus, 1. v. c. 2. Strabo, 1. xii. p. 396. Plinii Hift
. Nat. I. vi. c. 34.
Clarum autem fuiffe oppidum ſive civitatem nummi teſtantur Lucii Veri inſcript.
ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΑΤΩΝ ΠΡΟΣ ΡΥΝΔΛΚΩ &aliquis M. Aurelii ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΑΤΩΝ. ΡΥΝΔΑΚΟΣ.
Cellarii Not. Orbis Antiq. v. i. p. 180. In the Coll. Ainſeian. is a braſs coin with the
head of Diana and the bent bow AIIOAANI. MTEINN. reverſe a ſtag ſtanding.
Upon the ſhores of the lake it appears that ſeveral cities have been originally founded.
P. Gyllius mentions Miletopolis. Quam quidem vidi fundetus everſam lacui Apollo-
niati propinquam, adhuc nomen retinentem.” Confiant. Topograph. 1. i. c. I.
Pococke (v. ii. p 118) ſuppoſes that Mohållitch was the Apollonia of Strabo, as being
nearer the Ryndacus. But that river runs above as well as below the lake Apolloniatis;
and the modern Greek name of " Aboulòni" ſeems to fix the ſcite.
+
184
more beauty. Skirting its moraffy ſhores to the north, we ſurveyed
the
greater part of it; and the iſlands on a nearer approach roſe with
a more bold and varied outline from the water, and, uniting together,
added beauty and contraſt to the whole.
We had now paſſed the confines of Myſia', and reaching Lapa-
dion, or Ulabad, we found the Greek convent, which is the uſual
reſort of ſtrangers, engaged by a panagyris, or feſtival, which all the
neighbouring villagers were aſſembled to celebrate, and we were
happy to be preſent at fo novel a ſcene.
open cloiſters.
The convent is a mean building with mud walls, incloſing an
area, around which are the chambers of the caloyers or religious, and
cloiſters. More than two hundred perſons attended this cere-
mony, chiefly women with their children, and girls. At fun-fet
when we were admitted they were all diſpoſed in groupes, cach of
which was engaged at a repaſt they had brought with them; and
the men partook liberally of wine. When they had nearly finiſhed,
the cgumenos, with an attendant caloyer, made a proceſſion through
the different parties, bearing a portrait of the panagya, which was
very devoutly kiſſed by all, previous to contributing a ſmall ſum of
money. The feſtivities then commenced. Upon a ſtone pillar, once
a poliſhed column, was placed a large flambeau of pine wood; the
muſicians with great energy tuned their lyres, and the girls prepared
to dance around it. About twenty of them, many of whom were
exquiſitely beautiful, holding cach other by the hand, formed a large
circle, and moved at firſt ſlowly and gracefully. The dance foon
Myſia is part of the coaſt of the Propontis, or ſea of Marmara, on the north, with
the Ægcan ſea on the weſt; it is bounded by Bithynia on the caſt, and on the ſouth by
Lydia. It includes the Troad, with mount Ida, and the rivers Simois, Scamander, Gra-
nicus, and Ærepus. It is interſected by the Caïcus, which is thc principal river.
185
became more animated, and conſiſted in their coiling round their
leader with a kind of reel; who, waving an embroidered handker-
chief, diſingaged herſelf with much dexteritys. Her place was then
ceded. to the next, and the dance continued, till all had taken it.
* The modern Greeks certainly retain ſeveral of the ancient figures in dancing.
M. Guys, in his florid work, containing a parallel between the cuſtoms of the ancient and
modern Greeks, ſeems frequently to have miſtaken general analogy for exact reſemblance.
Many of his quotations have too vague an application to the ſubject in queftion, and ſhow
more ingenuity than proof. It must be allowed, notwithſtanding, that he has purſued a
very curious inquiry with ſpirit and elegance.
Of the very numerous catalogue of ancient dances, thoſe moſt in modern requeſt
ſeem to be the Awòxivos, performed by boys effeminately dreſſed, for the entertainment
of the Turks, and in harèms by girls. Martial deſcribes it in the eightieth epigram of
his fifth book.
“ Nec de Gadibus improbis puellæ
" Vibrabant fine fine prurientes
6 Laſcivos docili tremore lumbos."
And Juvenal, in his eleventh ſatire, has a ſimilar paſſage. The Tèpavos was likewiſe a
dance in honour of Theſeus, ſimilar to that called the Ariadne. The Pyrhica Saltatio, as
uſed in modern Greece, is deſcribed by Bellonius, 1. i. c. XX. M. De Guys, in one of his
letters, obſerves, “Les danſes champêtres en honour de Flora vous avez ſouvent vu, le
premier Mai, a l'Iſle des Princes & ailleurs, les femmes et les filles de village aller danſer
dans le prairie, cueiller & ripandre des fleurs, et s'en orner de la tête aux pieds. Celle qui
conduit la danſe, toujours-mieux paree que les autres repreſente Flore & le Printems dont
l'hymne qu'on chant annonce le retour. Une des danſeuſes chante
« Καλών ελθεν η Νυμφήμας η Μαία! η Μαία!”
L'air de l'hymne e tendre e plein d'expreſſion.” Voyage litteraire de la Grece, t. i. p. 200.
« Il n'y a point de maitres a danſer chez les Grecs, une diſpoſition plus particuliere
y rend les maitres inoins neceffaires. Une Mere au ſein de la famille apprend a ſes enfans
la meme danſe
que ſa mere lui a appriſe, elle la danſe avec eux et leur chant tout en danſant
l'hiſtoire dont la danſe exprime le ſujet." Do. t. i. p. 206. .
Dances choral were frequent likewiſe amongſt the ancient Greeks. Athenei Salta-
tionum Catalog. Pollucis, 1. iv. C. 14, &c.
Bb
186
It was the ancient dance of Ariadne, or the labyrinth. Many others,
as the Romeika, and the Flora on the firſt of May, are accompanied
by the voices of the dancers in recitative; but in this inſtance the
attempt had been vain, for the inſtruments were diſcordantly loud.
Little can be faid in praiſe of the air, or the performers, who were
three lyriſts, and a man who played the zambooria' or bagpipes, all
of whom fang and paraded behind the dancers. When this was
concluded, we were entertained by another ſtyle of dancing by two
young men, whoſe heads were crowned with flowers, as being be-
trothed to girls, who were likewiſe diſtinguiſhed by chains of ſmall
gold and ſilver coin, interlaced with their hair. They exerted them-
ſelves to the utmoſt in preſence of their miſtreſſes, who were amongſt
the moſt earneft ſpectators. Their movement was rapid and fan-
taſtic, exactly as repreſented in the ſtatuc of the dancing fawn.
This dance has equal pretenſions to antiquity, as an imitation of
the “ Pyrhica faltatio.” As the night advanced, ſome of the men
ſang very loudly in chorus, others recited ſcenes of rude comedy,
and their mirth continued boiſterous and unreſtrained till break of
day.
The village of Lapadion is ſituated on the banks of the Rynda-
cus, as it paſſes from the lake to the ſea. It does not boaſt higher
antiquity than the cloſe of the Greek empire. Princes of Ulabad
are mentioned by Cantemir as ceding the province of Caraſus to Or-
chan in 1337; and it was here that the armies of Morad II, and the
rebel, who perſonated his brother Muſtafà, were drawn out in order
* An inſtrument called by the Italians " zampogna," corrupted from fainbuca, as
the pipe was uſually made of elder ; adopted by the Greeks from the Orientals.
The o miſkàl,” reſembling the ſyrinx of Pan ſeen on ancient ſtatues, but rarely of
the ſame ſhape, is in frequent uſe in the Levant. They are ſometimes made double, and
the number of reeds varies from five to twenty-three, and generally incurvated.
187
of battle”. A high embattled wall or fortification is ſtill perfect on
the ſouth-weſt ſide, extending for a mile, and thickly ſtudded with
At a diſtance, on the plain, it has a near reſemblance to
many caſtles in Wales, which are connected with town-walls.
towers,
We traverſed a very barren and unrelieved expanſe of plain, with
partial incloſures, which, as the harveſt was paſt, were not leſs
dreary, till we reached the khan at Souſougherlì. We had foon to
afcend a mountainous tract, moſt of which, being detached, com-
poſed an endleſs groupe of groteſque forms, breaking into pointed
crags or embofomed in wood, ſmooth and regular. The torrent
beds, now white with chalky flint, muſt by their fulneſs give a tem-
porary beauty to theſe narrow vallies, which are covered with farubs.
In conſequence of torrents, innumerable pieces of agate and porphery
are left bare on the ſurface near the road.
The villages are very pleaſing at a diſtance, and the houſes curi-
ouſly conſtructed, with a flat roof of wicker terrace, rolled ſmooth,
and ſerving as a floor to ſift corn, and to ſleep upon during the ſum-
mer months. A very high tumulus was obſervable, either a fepul-
chral monument, or thrown up for diſplaying the ſadjak ſherife, or
conſecrated banner. In many parts, eſpecially in the frontier pro-
vinces; the progreſs of the Ottoman armies have been thus marked,
and the ſite of former victory is thus notified to pofterity.
The country was unvaried and tireſome till we arrived at Chauoux,
and found only a hovel to ſleep in.
Mount Temnos, or, as the Turks call it, by a kind of generic
name, the Balkan, roſe immediately in view, and was next to be
• Knowles and Cantemir. D'ohſſon, v. i. p. 370. Cantemir, v. i. .p. 27.
188
1
paſſed. From the higher grounds we could deſcry the tops of
mountains peering in their blue attire over the heads of others, of
which, as being nearer to us, the real tints were ſeen. In all its
parts this is a mountainous tract upon a grand ſcale, and ſo thickly
grouped, that the eye cannot reach near to the extreme extent. In
tracing the endleſs interſections, the eye is equally embarraſſed; and it
is worthy obſervation, what a rapid gradation of ſhade objects ſo mul-
tiplied produce. Every variety of ſhape, regular or groteſque, ſtrik-
ing or tame, is exhibited in this aſſemblage. The only inhabitants
are a few folitary ſhepherds, whoſe flocks are equally beautiful and
numerous, conſiſting of the fine Caramanian ſheep, noticed by
Strabo * as being of a gloſſy black colour, and long ſilky-haired goats.
We met at leaſt a thouſand together, driving to the evening fold.
No dye is neceſſary to tinge their wool ; and the flocks and their
owners are clothed alike in the ſimple livery of nature.
The
many
torrent beds appeared white in the vallies, which, when covered with
water, are more harmonized. After croſſing the chief mountain
(Jaunùz dagh), we deſcended to a plain; and reſted at Jelembèh, a
ſmall town, where we found a comfortable coffee-houſe y.
1.
The face of the country remained ſtill the ſame, ſometimes over
torrid heath, or through cotton incloſures ?, which require the neateſt
cultivation, and at the different ſeaſons employ the greater part of
the inhabitants of both ſexes. Many women were in the field un-
L
1 « Εις την κόραξαν χρoαν.”
Strabo, 1. xii. p. 578.
5
y Cellarius, v. ii. p. 104, 91, 2. Cluverius, p. 473, ed. 1697.
z Cotton is called by the inodern Greeks “ Bol to'xi.” Goſſypium, herbaceum,
cultum, arranged in the claſs monadelphia, and ſaid to be indiginous in the iſland of Tene-
dos, by Forſkäal, v. i. p. 39.
+
189
veiled and buſied in picking it. There are few villages without nc-
groes, natives of Abyſſinia, who are in a certain degree admitted to
the privileges of the other inhabitants, and are much leſs oppreſſed
than in European colonies. During the whole way we were ſur-
rounded by a diſtant amphitheatre of hills, which were continued in
a lengthened chain on every ſide. We halted for the night at Bala-
mede. The remains of ancient art have not been deſtroyed merely
from a love of deſtroying, but from idleneſs, as being ready to be ap-
plied whenever the materials or ornamental parts of building were
required; and we obſerved in all the Turkiſh burying grounds broken
pillars ſet up at the head of the graves. Three Turks have each a
chiftlik in this village, to whom the Greeks are ſervants in agricul-
ture, and have a few privileges. Many of the negroes, after a certain
ſervice, are liberated, and admitted by the aghà as the other feudal
dependants, who have ſmall portions of land allotted them for the
ſuſtenance of their families, on condition of giving up ſo many days
labour in a week.
From Balamede we entered Lydia or Mæonia“, and proceeded
over the widely-extended plain of Sarabat or Hermus, torrid and
dreary, till Magneſia appeared under the perpendicular and ferrated
rock of mount Sipylus, which we had long ſeen over the intervening
flat, as a fine maſs of blue grey tint, bounding the view, and pene .
trating into the clouds. Here Antiochus king of Syria was defeated
by L. Scipio Afiaticus, and the city and province given to Eumenes
king of Pergamus by the Roman fenate b.
>
a
Lydia is bounded by Myſia on the north, Caria on the ſouth, and the Ægean ſea
on the weſtern ſide. The chief rivers are the Hermus, Cayſter, and Meander, which di-
vides it from Caria; the mountains are Mycale, Sipylus, and Gallefus.
Lydia, Ionia, Caria, Myſia, the Troad, and part of Phrygia, were made provinces of
Rome by the victories of M. Perperna and M. Aquilius.
b Livii Hift. l. xlvi. C. 43.
-
190
We croſſed the Hermus at a ford, which receiving the Hyllus
and Pactolus, ſhared the fame of golden ſands; but now it no
longer
« Rolls aſhore
« The beryl and the golden ore.”
COMUS
Mark the change! It is now muddy, and deep only in the channel,
with wide ſhelving banks.
At a ſmall diſtance we ſaw a troop of inſurgents, who live pro-
feffedly by plunder, ſtretching along the plain with their horſes and
camels, and very numerous. We were relieved from fear, as we
were informed that they commit no outrage in the diſtrict of Kara
Oſman Oglùa. He is the moſt powerful and opulent derè beye or
feudal tenant in the empire, and though inferior to the pafhàs in
rank, poſſeſſes more wealth and influence, and offers them an ex-
ample of adminiſtration and patriotic government which they have
rarely the virtue to follow.
This rich territory, containing a ſquare of two hundred and fifty
miles in the heart of Anatolia, with the cities of Magneſia and Per-
gamus, little leſs than the original dominions of Attalus, was granted,
Riguo perfunditur auro
Atque illatis Hermi flaveſcit arenis.'
Sil. Ital. 1. i. v. 158.
Cellarii, v. i. p. 43.
d
Hafelquiſt's Travels, p. 39.
· Literally “ the lord of the valley," but applied to the lower order of the feodal
tenants who have not been dignified with tails.
191
not more than a century ago, to the firſt of the family, whoſe nam
is continued to his deſcendants. Expediency and long poſſeſſion
have induced the Porte to conſider this as an hereditary property,
although they diſavow it as ſuch ; regular ſucceſſion, excepting with
their monarch, being repugnant to their ſyſtem. Upon a late re-
newal of the charter or firhmàn, which is required upon each demiſc,
three thouſand purſes, about 100,000l. ſterling, were demanded, and
caſily paid. He can raiſe fixty thouſand men, and is bound to cer-
tain military ſervices for the defence of the empire, and the conti-
guous provinces in particular; and circumſtances perpetually ariſe
in which his interference becomes neceſſary. His great revenue
amounts from one tenth of the whole produce of all the land in cul-
tivation within his diſtrict f. Cotton is the chief article. The ad-
mirable police he maintains is the more falutary, as Frank merchants
are required to ſend camels laden with ſilver ſpecie to the internal
parts of the country for prompt payment. The preſent repréſentative
is active and liberal, and preſerves the only effort in the empire to-
ward an efficient and honourable govertiment; which benefit has
gradually reſulted from hereditary ſucceſſion.
Another inſtance only of this deſcription of tenure occurs through-
out the whole Ottoman empire, that of Chapàn Oglù, whoſe territory
extends northward of Bithynia, to the ſhores of the Black ſea.
The feodal ſyſtem prevails univerſally in the Turkiſh empire,
which had been introduced into the Aſiatic provinces by Baldwyn
the conqueror of Conſtantinople and his ſucceſſors, as in Italy by the
Normans, in the thirteenth century. The grants from the crown
are paſhalìks or government of provinces, aghaliks of villages, zaims
f It has been aſſerted, that the moſt oppreſſive aghi in the empire does not levy inore
by taxes than four and a half per cent. per annum.
192
and timàrs, grants of lands for ſupplying a certain number of horſe-
men in battle fully armed and accoutred. The firſt Mohammedan
conquerors aſſigned diſtricts, villages, and portions of land, to their
followers, who were required to live on their eſtates, in order to de-
fend the provinces in caſe of ſurpriſe. Theſe villages and their lands
were ſtyled chelìchliks, or fiefs of the ſword, a name which marks
the original grants, and the nature of the ſervice. Theſe feodal te-
nants were bound not only to watch over the ſafety of their own
diſtricts, but likewiſe to attend the paflàs to battle, thoroughly
cquipped, with a number of armed men, in proportion to the fief
they held, and to be always in a ſtate of preparation with their horſes.
Thoſe left by the paſhàs to govern in their places, and to receive their
revenues, were charged with purveying for the zaims and timars, in
their winter quarters, if on the frontiers, and during the whole cam-
paign, if the ſeat of war were too far diſtant from the provinces.
Theſe revenues were called hilchiftliks (annual income), to import
their conſtant duration. The number of theſe fiefs, at leaſt of thoſe
who ſerve, is conſiderably diminiſhed, from the intereſted connivance
of the pafhàs, who conſult immediate adyantage, unreſtrained by pa-
triotic confiderations.
193
SECTION XII.
VIEW OF MOUNT SIPYLUS-FABLE OF NIOBEMAGNESIA-DE-
--
SCRIPTION OF THE CITY, CASTLE, AND MOSQUE-ROAD TO
SMYRNA-EVENING PROSPECT OF THE BAY-ANNALS OF THE
CITY UNDER THE GREEKS, ROMANS, AND SARACENS-MODERN
CALAMITIES-THE PLAGUE~FRA LUIGI DI PAVIA-ANECDOTE
OF HIM, AND ACCOUNT OF HIS HOSPITAL-BIRTH-PLACE OF
--
HOMER-CLAIM OF SMYRNA-BION AND MIMNERMUS-NA-
TIVES-DISCOVERY OF A STATUE OF PARIS-MOUNT PAGUS-
THE CASTLE-VESTIGES OF THE STADIUM AND THEATRE
RIVER NIELES AQUEDUCTS TURKISH HAREM MODERN
SMYRNA ITS SOCIETY, &c.-MOUNT GALLESUS-CARAVAN
OF CAMELSVALE OF EPHESUS-RIVER CAYSTER_DESCRIP
TION OF THE PORT.
The ſituation of Magneſia' is at once fingular and pictureſque upon
a gradual aſcent formed by an accumulation of earth, which ſhelving
from the ſteep has left it entirely bare“. As the ancient city par-
took more largely of the ruin that was ſpread over the Aſiatic pro-
vinces by an earthquake in the fifth year of the reign of Tiberius,
being nearly overwhelmed, it is poſſible that mount Sipylus aſſumed
a
Amongſt the Arundelian marbles at Oxford is a treaty between king Seleucus and
the citizens of Magneſia and Smyrna, Marm. Oxon, Nº. xxvi. p. 41; in which, amongſt
other deities invoked as ſanctioning the oath, is “ Myrepx Trv Simovanou.”
Abbè Seftini (Coll. Ainſleian, v. iv. p. 121) notices braſs coins of Trajan--reverſe,
Cybele, MAINHTNN. EINT.Or. Another city called Magneſia of the Meander was
given to Themiſtocles after his exile by Xerxes, where he died. Livy, 1. xxxvii. C. 37.
C C
194
its preſent form b. Thirteen cities ſuffered from that convulſion of
nature almoſt complete demolition, and they owed to the munifi-
cence of the emperor a reſtoration to their priſtine ſplendour.
Magneſia is called the city of Tantalus, of whom is a memorable
fable, and whoſe daughter Niobe is ſaid to have been transformed
into Sipylus.
“ Intra quoque viſcera ſaxum--
“ Flet tamen, et validi circundata turbine venti
“ In patriam rapta eſt. Ibi fixa cacumine montis
“ Liquitur, et lachrymis etiam nunc marmora manant."
Ovid.
Dr. Chandler has ſtill a conceit about Niobe figured in the rock.
In the later periods of the Greek empire we find Andronicus Pa-
leologus retiring to the ſtrong fortreſs of Magneſia, after having un-
ſucceſsfully contended with the Turks. It became, ſoon afterward,
the ſeat of Ottoman power, and the ſcene of many tranſactions a.
b " Kas yap vuv try Mayviolay ratebaney Eēlojās.” Strabo, 1. xii. p. 579. Plin. Nat.
Hift. 1. v. c. 29.
c Chandler's Travels in Aſia Minor, p. 264; and in Chiſhull's Iter Afiæ poeticum,
“ Non procul hinc Nioben Sipyli ſub rupe rigentem
“ Aſpexi.”
Politian has the ſame idea.
" Quo flet, mæſta filex, Niobe."
The fifteen exquiſite ſtatues of this ſubject in the gallery at Florence fix this fable on
the mind, as a real calamity.
• Theodore Laſcaris, the ſecond emperor of Nicæa, died in 1259, and was buried at
195
At this time it is a large and populous city, with minarèhs, all of
them lofty, and many pictureſque. Near the road ſtands thc ruined
tower of a palace, intended by Morad II. e as a retreat, after his rc-
ſignation of the empire. We did not ſee the moſque of marble
built by that prince and his empreſs, to which all the remaining ſpe-
cimens of ancient art were facrificed, and wrought into new forms.
It is inferior in ſize only to ſome of the principal at Conſtantinople.
We were, in fact, ſeveral centuries too late for' antiquities at
Magneſia; for when any public work was erected by the Turks, all
the external blocks of marble of great edifices were rehewn, and mo-
delled to their taſte. The ſhafts of columns only, not their hetero-
geneous capitals, have eſcaped ſuch barbariſm". Upon a cliff occu-
pying the exact centre, and much lower than the others, are ruinous
embattled walls girding the ſummit, which are the outworks of a
fortreſs of ſingular ſtrength on the ſite of the acropolis, and erected
by the princes of the Nicæan dynaſty, upon the Gothic model, in
the thirteenth century.
Magneſia. George Muzalon, his favourite, and his adherents, were baſely maſſacred at
the altar, as they were performing his obfequies. Gibbon, v. xi. p. 315.
Koriood, the ſon of Bayazid II. was eſtabliſhed by his father at Magneſia, but de-
feated and killed by his brother, Selim I. Cantemir, b. iii. p. 145.
Selim, ſon of Suleyman II. was reſident at Magneſia at the time of his father's death
in 1556. Ibid. p. 207.
c Morad II. abdicated the throne and retired to Magneſia, but accepted it a ſecond
time after the battle of Varna and the defeat of the European league, when Mohammed II.
his ſon, reafluned the government of Magneſia. D'Ohſon, t. i. p. 370. Other parti-
culars of the hiſtory of Magneſia are related by Chandler (p. 267), who omits the above.
f« Dolui corum caſum, non tam exeo, quod projecti humi jacerent, quam quod
capitula ex antiquâ artis ratione commutarentur in barbaricos modulos." Petri Gyllii
Conſt. Topog. I. ii. C. 44.
1
196
We had a mountain of many miles to paſs, a continuation of Si-
pylus, the height and rugged ways of which reminded us of Olympus,
yet not without romantic villages cluſtered againſt the ſteep. Pre-
vious to our deſcent into the plain of Avdjilar we enjoyed the firſt
complete vicw of the bay of Smyrna, with the town ſtretching into
it
upon a neck of land. It is richly cultivated, with vineyards, and
well built villages. The entrance into Smyrna is through very ſpa-
cious cemeteries and luxuriant cypreſs groves. As the evening cloſed,
the bay was illuminated by the warmeſt glow, and the whole ſcene
rendered as brilliant as many of thoſe which Claude Loraine ſo hap-
pily imagined. The purple tint on the mountains, and that on the
ſea of a fainter hue, would employ the talents of the firſt maſters.
No city in the Anatolian provinces has preſerved a flouriſhing
ſtate through ſo many ages, yet not without a ſhare of calamity. It
has been burnt and pillaged by war, overthrown by earthquakes, and
is annually viſited by the plague.
Of the ſeven cities addreſſed by the writer of the Apocalypſe,
Smyrna alone retains any compariſon with its original magnificence;
the temples and public edifices are no more, but its opulence, extent,
and population, are certainly increaſed.
The origin of cities is frcquently fabulous, and this is reported to
have been firſt eſtabliſhed by Smyrna, an Amazon. With greater
probability, certain of the inhabitants of Epheſus are ſaid to have
migrated here on account of the port, which has been the cauſe of
'all its ſucceſs.
The antiquity of Smyrna, as to its exact era, is involved in ſome
obſcurity; and though it claims the birth of Homer, there exiſt no
proofs of its having been then a city, a conſequence which it derived
197
from the companions of Alexander, Antigonus and Lyſimachus, who
may
be conſidered as founders. When aſſociated with the twelve
Ionian cities, an honour obtained by the mediation of Attalus, to
whom as a free city it had been given by the Roman ſenate after the
defeat of Antiochus s, it foon gained ſuperior diſtinction.
The gymnaſtic games were celebrated
every five years at Smyrna
with univerſal reſorth; and it was embelliſhed with the temples of
Cybele, of Jupiter, and Apollo, and one of Diana Leucophyrne,
yielding only to that at Epheſus in extent, but ſuperior in elegance
of architecturci.
But under the Roman auſpices its former magnificence was ex-
ceeded. After it had afforded refuge to Trebonius, one of the con-
ſpirators againſt Ceſar, who was ſlain by Dolabella, and part of the
city deſtroyed, it enjoyed the protection of Auguſtus, who allowed
them the title of Neocori. When the eleven cities of Aſia Minor
contended for the honour of erecting a temple to Claudius, his mo-
ther, and the fenate, it was decreed to themk; and their gratitude
to Hadrian, who had repaired the deſtruction of an earthquake, de-
dicated another to him, with annual games. The temples of em-
perors were more ſpacious and beautiful even than thoſe at Epheſus
& Livii.
+
h Pauſanias, 1. vi.
1
i Strabo, l. xiv. p. 646. His expreſſion is " modu osaçepêl." p. 647.
k Tacitus, I. iv. c. 55, accounts for the preference given to Smyrna in the conteſt of
the eleven cities, by which they gained the title of “ NEWXOCOL GE620TWv." “ Graviffimo
diſcriinine exercitûs ob afperitatein hyemis et penuriam veſtis, omnes qui adftabant Smyr-
næos detraxiſſe corporis tegmina Romanifque legionibus miſiſſe.”
198
and Pergamus? Strabo is diffuſe in commendation of the city, and
objects only to the deficiency of thoſe public accommodations, which
were always the firſt object of the Roman architects, but intirely
overlooked by their maſters of the Grecian ſchool m.
Chriſtianity was received, by the converſion of moſt of its inha-
bitants, but the government was adverſe to it, and Policarp, the ca-
nonized biſhop, was martyred in its cauſe. The arms of the Saracens
ſpread like a torrent over Anatolia, and Smyrna was ſoon ſubjected
to their yoke; but when recovered, with Epheſus, by the emperor
Alexius, the chriſtian churches were rebuilt". Through many cen-
1 Games at Smyrna in honour of Hadrian were called “ Hadriana Olympeia.
Seldeni Marm. Arundel. Oxon. p. 159. In the cuvèopic or xoiva of the Afiatic ſtates who
aſſembled to vote inoney for the erection and repair of temples, Smyrna became the metro-
polis, as appears from the coins of Severus and Gallienus, IIPATA KOINA ALIAE. EMTPN.
on one of Caracalla CMYPN. ΠΡΩΤΩΝ. ΤΩΝ. CEBACΤΩΝ. ΚΑΛΛΕΙ. ΚΑΙ. ΜΕΓΕΘΕΙ.
and on others in the Coll. Ainſleian, v. iv. p. 115. Reverſe, Cybele ſitting, and Æſcula-
pius ſtanding before her, each as the genius of Smyrna and Pergamus. TIEPTAMEN.
CMYPN. OMONOIA. CMTPNAINN. T. NENKOPON. A temple of Apollo, where ora-
cular reſponſes were given, was built near the extremity of the walls. The celebrated
odæum or muſic ſchool was adorned by a picture of one of the Graces, by the hand
of Apelles. Pauſanias, I. ix. 309. Bupalus of Chios made the ſtatue of Fortune for the
Sinyrnæans, and the three Graces of gold in the temple of Nemeſis. Pauſanias, l. iv.
c. 8. Junius de Piet. Vet. l. i. c. 16. An exquiſite ſpecimen of the laſt mentioned, is
a ſmall ſtatue of Venus coming out of a bath, in the Muſeo Pio-Clementino, found near
the Via Præneftina, and inſcribed BOTITAAOE ENOIEP
η « Νυν έστι καλλι στη πασών. Μέρος μεν τι έχασα επ' όρει τετειχισμένον, τα δε πλέον εν
πεδιων προς το λιμάνι. Εστι δ'η ρυπο τομία διαφορος επ' ευθείων εις δυναμιν, δε άι οδοι λιθοσρώτοι
στoαι σε μεγαλαι τετραγωνοι επιπεδόιτε και υπερώοι εστι δε και Βιβλιοθηκη, και το Ομήριον στωα
τετράγανος έχασα νεων Ομηρε και ξοανον,” &c. « Εν δε ελαττωμα των αρχιτεκτονων 8 μικρον
ότι τας οδοι'ς στρωννύντες υπορρυσεις ουκ έδωκαν αυταις,” &c. 1. xiv. p. 646.
Gibbon, v. xi. p. 102.
199
turies the poſſeſſion of the city was alternately held by the Saracens
and Chriſtians. About 1160, when nearly deſolated, John Angelus
Comnenus attempted its reſtoration. In 1342, the citadel was de-
fended by the knights of St. John of Jeruſalem, or of Rhodes, to
whom the cuſtody of it had been committed by Pope Gregory XI.°;
in 1402, their valour in oppoſition to Timour was unſucceſsful, the
Chriſtians were maſlacred, and the city taken by ſtorm '; but at the
end of the ſame century, aſſiſted by the Venetians, they forced the
Turks to evacuate it with great loſs?. Many ages have elapſed ſince
the Turks have been fole maſters; in 1694, the Venetians had re-
ſolved, with almoſt a certainty of ſucceſs, to attack it by ſtorm, but
were diverted from their purpoſe by the interceſſion of the foreign
merchants ?
The population of Smyrna is computed to exceed a hundred
thouſand perſons.
Amongſt the calamitous events of a more modern date, are the
earthquake in 1688, which buried four thouſand perſons in the
ruins; a fire then raging at every corner of the towns; and the
maſſacre of the Greek ſubjects in 1770.
• Vertot l'Emp. Romain. t. v. Gibbon, v. xi. p. 440.
p Gibbon, v. xii. p. 49.
9 Knowles, v. i. p. 278.
r Cantemir, b. iv. p. 395. Rycaut. Greek Church, p. 33, & feq.
s De la Mottraye Voyage, t. i. p. 182. « On pouvoit avec raiſon alors appeller cette
ville la nouvelle Smyrne, l'ancienne ayant etè preſque entierment abimée par le terrible
tremblement de terre qui arriva au mois Juillet 1688."
t 66 La nouvelle de la deſtruction totale de la marine Ottamane fût publique a
200
The plague is communicated by the commercial communication
with other ports in the Levant, and baffles every precaution to effect
its intire eradication. Although its frequency be not leſſened for
many years paſt, the unexampled zeal of the director of one of the
hoſpitals has conſiderably diminiſhed its baleful effects.
Fra Luigi di Pavia“, prior of the hoſpital of San Antonio, is a
native of Padua, of the order of Recolêts. He built and eſtabliſhed
the houſe about twenty-ſeven years ſince, and has applied the whole
of the penſion he receives from his family to its benevolent purpoſes.
Patients of all ranks are admitted without fee; and what is contri-
buted by thoſe of the better fort is added to the common ſtock. He
does not pretend to any ſkill in medicine, but tries every plauſible
experiment with unremitted attention, and frequently performs the
moſt menial offices himſelf. Having been infected, he made a vow
to attend one perſon at leaſt, if he recovered. His ſucceſs has in-
duced him to dedicate the remainder of his life to that ſervice. He
has lately adopted the oiled ſhirt with friction, and found it a remedy
of more frequent avail than many others. He computes with the
>
Smyrnc, de la dimanche 8 Juillet 1770 à quatre heures du matin. La certitude d'un fait
auſſi etrange, repandit parmi les Mahometans de cette ville la confternation et le deſeſpoir.
La populace humiliée, outrée de ce revers, animée par les diſcours ſeditieux d'Ibrahim
aghà, douanier de Smyrne, homme mechant, cruel, fanatique a l'exces, et de quelques
autres perſonages du même charactère, voulut aſſouvir ſa rage ſur les Chretiens & prin-
cipalement ſur les Grecs. Ibrhahim donna l'example, et le meme dimanche a cinque
heures au mnatin, commença par faire tuer inhumainement tous les Grecs einployés ou do-
meſtiques, de la Douane, dans l'hotel même, cet example fut ſuivi dans les marchés, les
quais de la ville; en moins de quatre heures, environ 1500 Grecs furent egorgée & deux
Européens. Elle n'auroit certainement pas épargné les Francs de toutes les nations, fi
c'cut ctè un jour ouvrier. Le maſſacre dura depuis cinque lieurs du matin juſquès à pres
de neuf heures, &c. Peyſonnel Obferv. fur B. de Tott, p. 78.
» Howard on Lazarettos, p. 32 to 41
201
ſtricteft veracity, that of his patients nearly two thirds have eſcaped
death.
This ſimple detail of facts may ſupply pages of panegyric; and
“ Marſeilles' good biſhop" muſt yield to the benevolent and humble
Franciſcan.
h
The claims of ſeven cities for the honour of having given Homer
to the world, have been a ſubject of claſſical diſquiſition and inquiry.
In a matter ſo unconfirmed by poſitive proof, it is but juſt to ſay,
that the beſt ſupported conjectures adduced in the courſe of the ar-
gument are not in favour of Smyrna*. But it has been haſtily
aſſerted, that he has omitted the mention of that place, in all his
poems.
The moſt elegant paſſage in the Ambra of Politian is that which
deſcribes Smyrna, and the birth of the poet, on the banks of the
Meles?.
* Leo Allatius, de Patria Homeri, in fixteen chapters, examines the claims, and cites
much authority to prove him a native of Chios.
Jam fupremi certant de fanguine vatis
“ Smyrna, Rhodos, Colophon, Salamis, Chios, Argos, Athenä.
Politiani Munto.
γ « Ριμφα δια Σμυρνης πανχρυσιoν αρμα διώκει
«« Ες Κλαρον αμπελόεσσαν."
Homeri. Hymn. ad Dianam. edit. Stephani,
“ Sæpe illum vicinâ Faunus in umbrâ
« Deinirans, aures tacitus tendebat acutas,
“ Et ſubito puerum Satyri cinxêre theatro,
“ Cum Satyriſque feræ, fed quæ nil triſte minentur,
“ Cumque feris ſylvæ, ſed quæ alta cacumina motent,
“ Multifidæque facris adnutent legibus auræ.
Dd
202
Certain it is that the Smyrnæans conſidered him as their own,
and were particularly jealous of that fame; they erected his ſtatue;
they cultivated the ſcience of rhetoric in his temple; and they im-
preſſed, as a vehicle of the greateſt notoriety, and the higheſt teſti-
mony of their reſpect, his portrait upon their current coins a.
Homer was certainly unknown beyond the Alps till 1337, when
Barlaam, the Calabrian monk, introduced his Iliad at Rome, where
he was ſent on an embaffy to Pope Benedict XI. by the patriarch of
Conſtantinople; to which circumſtance muſt be attributed the re-
vival of Greek learning in Italy b. Lydgate, ſoon after Boccace had
adopted the fpurious ſtory of Dictys and Dares, compiled his “ Troy
Boke," one of the carlicſt poems of any merit in our language.
Amid the darkneſs of the Gothic night, it is therefore the more
pleaſing to diſcover the immortal poet, as that ſingle, but irradiating
luminary, by which our anceſtors were affifted, and invited to the
ſearch of the long hidden treafures of claſſical literature.
1
Ipſi quinetiam riguo Pactolus & Hermus
“ Certatim affluxêre auro, juffoſque tacere
" Ripà ab utrâque fuos Meander miſit olores;
“ Meander.fibimet refluis fæpe obvius undis.
Politiani Ambra.
a « Και δη το νομίμα τι καλκον παρα αυτοις Ομηριον λέγεται.” Strabo, 1. κίν. p. 646.
" Quantum Smyrnæi durabunt vatis honores."
Lucan, 1. ix. v. 987.
• Gibbon,. v. xii. p. 66, 119.
How much MSS. of Homer were in requeſt, even with the Greeks of the lower
ages, may be collected from G. Cedrinus, one of the Byzantine hiſtorians, who (deſcribing
the imperial library at Conſtantinople, conſiſting of 600,000 volumes, wliich was deſtroyed
by fire) mentions the Iliad and Odyſſey written in gold letters upon a roll a hundred and
twenty feet long, made of the inteſtine of a ſerpent. P. Gyllius Top. Confi. 1. ii. c. 20.
203
Two poets much admired for the elegiac ſweetneſs of their verſes
Smyrna can legitimately claim. They are Bionº, whoſe Idyllia aro
extant, and Mimnermus, of whoſe excellence we have the teſtimony
of Horace and Propertius , but his fragments only have reached the
preſent age. He was patroniſed in the court of Croeſus king of
Lydia, and lived in the time of Cyrus. The remains of his poems
are chiefly on amatory ſubjects.
Few of the Ionian cities have furniſhed more reliques of antiquity, or
of greater merit, than Smyrna; but the convenience of tranſporting
!
· There were ten of that name eminent for their literary works. This is called by
Diog. Laert. (1. iv.) “ Ecoques Mèaixos Iloiyens.” His“ Idyllia" are publiſhed by
Hen. Stephens, at the end of his edition of “ Homer."
d Hor. Epift. 1. ii. ep. 2.
6 Plus in amore vulet Mimnermi verſus Homero."
Propertii Eleg. 1. i. cl. 9. v. 11.
Brunck Anthologia. The pentameter verſe was invented by him. Hift. Acad. Info.
t. X. p. 292.
Another poet of Smyrna compoſed a ſequel to the Iliad, in fourteen books, the prin-
cipal merit of which are accurate deſcriptions of the country and natural hiſtory of Ionia.
The original manuſcript was diſcovered in Greece by Cardinal Beffarabion, who commu-
nicated it to the learned world. The author is called Quintus Calaber or Smyrnæus,
which was not his name, but probably that of the owner of the book. He was firſt pub-
liſhed at Venice by Aldus, by Fregius at Baſil in 1569, by Rhodamannus at Hanover in
1604, and laſtly at Leyden, 1734, 8vo. with this title, “ Quinti Calabri Prætermiſforum
ab Homero Libri xiv. Græce, cuin verſione Latinâ & integris emendationibus Laurentii
Rhodomanni, ed adnotamentis ſelectis Claudii Dauſqueii. Curante J. C. de Pauw, qui
ſuas etiam emendationes addidit.” Dictys of Crete and Dares of Phrygia wrote in the
thirteenth century, or in reality were monkiſh forgeries of that date, in which the Latins
and Byzantines were equally expert.
204
them, and the number of inveſtigators, have exhauſted the mine. Yet laſt
ſummer, in ſinking a well, the ſite of a temple was clearly diſcovered,
with columns of porphery and marble, and a ſtatue of Paris of ex-
quiſite workmanſhip. He is repreſented with a greyhound holding
the apple behind him, and not more than a yard high. The face
expreſies much heſitation and wavering previous to deciſion, and the
features are on the true Grecian model.
We aſcended the hill, mount Pagus of the ancients, to ſurvey
the extenſive remains of the fortreſs, at the foot of which modern
Smyrna is built. That city, from demolition by war and earth-
quakes, has changed its ſite, being at this time much nearer to the
head of the bay. In the remoteſt period this infulated hill appears
to have been connected with it through all its changes, and to have
been the acropolis. After ſo many ages, it now conſiſts of an em-
battled wall, with many towers, ſquare and angular, incloſing about
ſeven acres. There are, as appendages of great caſtles on the Gothic
model, the ruins of a chapel and a large arched ciſtern; nor does it
appear that the inſide ſpace was ever built on, but uſed as a camp,
when ſo manfully defended by the knights of Rhodes. The preſent
caſtle was put in a complete ſtate of defence, if not wholly rebuilt,
by the knights of Rhodes, after having been deſtroyed by Tamer-
lane in 1419. Sultan Moràd diſmantled it, and it was finally re-
ſtored by John Angelus Comnenus, who was a great benefactor to
the city.
The head of the northern gate is of white marble ſculptured
with an inſcription round the arch relative to the reſtoration of the
city, by the emperor John Angelus Comnenus and his empreſs He-
lena. On one ſide of the weſt gate is a coloſſal head, concerning
which moſt travellers have offered a conjecture. It has been called
205
a ſphynx, the amazon Smyrna, and the emprefs Helena. The
weſtern declivity has veſtiges of the ſtadium, and the northern of
the theatre.
.
Upon the middle ſpace of mount Pagus the ruins of a temple
were lately diſcovered, the dimenſions of which were fifty feet by
twenty-ſeven, within the walls. The ſtadium, when taken to pieces
to build a khan, was 540 feet long, and the diameter of the circular
end 288 feet, 120 of which were occupied by the arena, and the re-
mainder by the fubfellia. The vaults for the wild beaſts were then
diſcoverable. Legends report that St. Polycarp was here torn to
pieces by wild beaſts.
The bird's-eye proſpect is very amuſing, and highly cultivated,
as it commands the valley of gardens called Avdjiler, with the whole
town of Smyrna, fo compact as to ſhow itſelf like a ſingle roof, the
gulf quite to the ſea, and the ſurrounding ſpiral mountains. From
the ſouth ſide we overlooked a valley abounding in marſhy ſhrubs,
concealing the Meles for a conſiderable diſtance; and we could
diſcover farther on its ſcanty ſtream and rocky bed. It is the ri-
vulet ſacred to Homerº. We deſcended in order to trace the banks,
ſet thick with oleanders, from the ruins of one aqueduct to thoſe
of another more extenſive and ancient, which has fourteen arches,
ſome circular, and others elliptical; the latter may be the Turkiſh
“ Hic placido fluit amne Meles, auditque fub altis
Ipſe tacens, antris, meditantes carmina cycnos.
“ Hæc vatein eximium tellus (ita ſancta vetuſtas
“ Credidit) hæc illum dias in luminis oras
« Prima tulit.'
Politiani Ambra.
Pauſanias, I. vii. c. 5.
206
additions. The aqueduct? in uſe is ſmaller, and nearer the town;
and the ſtream of the firſt is now collected to turn a corn-mill above
it againſt the hill.
In this truly romantic ſpot, in a luxuriant dingle of woodbine
and jeffamine, ſeveral Turkiſh women were repoſing in the ſhade,
and enjoying the delicious freſhneſs, unveiled, and with great free-
dom. The younger compoſed the harèm of ſome wealthy Turk,
with old women to attend them. They were extremely beautiful,
but their perſons relaxed, and inelegantly protuberant, to the Engliſh
eye 8.
The ſtreets of Smyrna are ſo narrow that they almoſt exclude
light and air by the near approximation of the tops of oppoſite
houſes. Yet this plan has certain advantages in this climate; for
the intenſe rays of the ſun are more to be avoided even than the ex-
cluſion of air. Kioſques and terraces, attached to almoſt every
houſe, ſupply the deficiency. Many of thoſe belonging to Frank
merchants are ſpacious and handſome in one ſtreet communicating
with the port. The bay has much beauty, reſulting chiefly from the
fide ſkreens, which are a chain of mountains of an irregular outline,
and of nearly equal height. The Frank merchants enjoy unmoleſted
f The ancient aqueduct is 70 feet high, and 350 in length. The other was built in
1674. Rycaut contin. of Knowles, p. 256. It has ſeven arches above, and two below, is
200 feet acroſs, and 60 feet high.
& Ferdooſi, the Homer of the Perſians, in the Shah Namàh, gives the following ani-
mated deſcription of Turkiſh women. “ With them are many Turkiſh girls, all with
their faces veiled; all with their bodies taper as a cypreſs, and locks black as müfk; all
with cheeks full of roſes, with eyes full of languor; all with lips ſweet as wine, and fra-
grant as roſe-water.” In the Koràn, the houri, promiſed by Mohammed, are literally
black-eyed nymphs." Jones's Hift. of the Perſian Language.
207
freedom, and ſociety is conducted upon liberal plans. Many of them
live with great hoſpitality, and even elegance. In the heat of ſum-
mer they retire to the villages of Boodjah, Burnabàt, and Sedìkeuy,
where they have retreats in the ſtyle of the country. Whoever
viſits Smyrna with reſpectable recommendations, will have ample
cauſe to acknowledge their liberality and politeneſs h.
After a week's reſidence we left Smyrna. Skirting the hill above
the Meles, oppoſite to the caſtle, where the cultivation is on every
fide remarkable, we paſſed through a gap in the wall of the
pomæ-
rium', in which were formerly many fepulchres. A level country
ſucceeded, with plains abounding in buſhes of phylerea and dwarf
oak, till we reached Tchelima, at night. About the laſt mile the
mountains in front formed a very groteſque outline, with perpendi-
cular breaks, and fombre foliage, compoſing a noble ſweep. For ſe-
veral hours our courſe was directed over a wide moraſs, at the foot
of lofty crags, both covered with buſhes of the ſpiræa in rich purple
bloſſom. We ſoon aſcended mount Galeſus, at a paſs rugged and
4
i
h The following ſketch of ſociety and manners at Smyrna is given by La Mottraye.
“ Ils tiennnet preſque tous, table ouverte, en un mot ils ſe font un plaiſir ſenſible de
voir les etrangers et de leur procurer toutes ſortes de divertiſſement. Ils donnent la matiriéc
toute entiere a leur negoce, et le reſte du jour a ces divertiſſemens, de la chaſſe &c. et a
bonne chcre, qu'il etoit aiſé de faire dans un pais ou le pain, la viande, le poiſſon, le vin,
les fruits & tous les vivres qui ſent excellens, ſe donnent preſque pour rien. Ils vivent
d'ailleurs entre eux dans une union tres particuliere fans que la difference de religion, ou de
nation ou.quelque intêret de parti l'altere jamais, même pendant la guerre.” T.i. p. 185.
M. De Guys (Voyage litteraire, t. ii.) is equally deſcriptive; and Chandler, in ſeveral
chapters, has given a pleaſing account of what relates to Smyrna. Sandys, and the old
travellers, are more conciſe.
i Varro and Livy explain the pomærium to be an unoccupied ſpace immediately
within the city walls, upon which it was not lawful to place any building; but ſepulchres
were frequent.
208
dangerous in every part; the ſoil is very looſe, with huge ſtones,
and abounding in ſhrubs and pine trees.
s6 Umbroſi ſubter pineta Galeſi.”
TIBULL, 1. ii. eleg. 34.
The defiles are formed by ſteeps of the fame deſcription. Deſcend-
ing into a ſpacious glade on the ſide of a rivulet, we halted, and
joined a caravan who were reſting from the heat, which at noon was
become ſo oppreſſive as ſcarcely to be borne. Under a hut built
round the trunk of a large plane tree, the travellers were ſtretched
on mats, ſleeping, or taking their temperate refreſhments, whilſt the
camels were diſperſed around in very groteſque groupes.. When on
their march, from fifty to a hundred in a line, with a ſolitary aſs at
their head, they owe all their effect as marking a diſtance on plains,
or when ſkirting the extremity. But we now ſaw them cluſtered
together in unequal numbers, and different attitudes, and could thus
contemplate the character of fo extraordinary an animal, the trueſt
emblem of docility and patience. Conſidered ſimply in the ſcale of
pictureſque beauty, many may be ſuperior, but as an accompaniment
of an Afiatic ſcene, they are moſt characteriſtic and peculiar.
In a few hours more the plain of Epheſus opened in front, and
we were ſoon on the banks of the Cayſter", full, and winding, but
not clear. That part of it where the poets place ſo many fwans',
muſt have been nearer to the ſource; for none are now feen. At a
ΚΑΙ « Ενβα Καύστρα
* Ηοσχα καχλαζοντος επιροεξι αγλαον υδωρ.
Dionys. Perieg.
'The ſwans of the Cayſter are celebrated Iliad, xiii. 461, Ovid. Metam. 1. v. 386,
Martial, 1. i. epig. 54.
209
ruined bridge, the view, infinitely grand, extends from a mount
crowned with a ſingle tower, and includes a ſeries of the reliques of
ancient Epheſus around mount Prion, flanked by the ferrated cliffs
of mount Correſus m, the dilapidated moſque, village, and caſtle, of
Aiaſolùk, ingrafted on a bold faſtnefs, and completing a proſpect of
ſuperior intereſt.
What it has been when Epheſus flouriſhed, the boaſt of Ionia,
imagination muſt now ſupply; nor are all the features of nature ſtill
the ſame. Thoſe which are unaltered are upon fo magnificent a
ſcale as ſeldom to occur independent of ſuch accompaniments, how-
ever heightened by them. The branch of the ſea which formed the
port no longer exiſts, and is ill ſucceeded by a vaſt morafs of tall
reeds.
The vale of Epheſus exhibits ſo total a change, that a perfect
phenomenon appears to have taken place; although, in the lapſe of
ſo many ages, from the ſame cauſe, the ſame effect may have been
produced in many countries, the ſtate of which, at as remote a pe-
riod of time, has not been tranſmitted to us.
An arm of the Ægean ſea furniſhed the city with ſeveral ports,
but all were ſhallow and incommodious. Attalus Philadelphus, king
of Pergamus, memorable for the magnificence of his public works,
was perſuaded by an architect to conſtruct a mole, which ſhould re-
m Strabo, 1. xiv. p. 640. * Προσπεριλαζών και της περί τον Κορρησον παραωρίας."
Choiſeul has, in contradiction to the more accurate opinion of Pococke and Chandler,
transferred the name of Pion to the mount of Ajaſolùk. The real Pion, or, as it is with
equal frequency called, Prion, and Leprè, ſtands under Correſus, in the centre of the an-
cient Epheſus.
EC
1
210
medy the inconvenience". They did not foreſee that by interrupt.
ing the current ſo great a miſchief would enſue; for the accretion of
earth, brought down by a river of torrents, foon deſtroyed the port,
and the commercial advantages of the place; and in ſucceſſive ages
has encroached fome miles on the dominion of the ſea.
The Cayſter now flows through ſedges, ſcarcely viſible; and
whoever viſits Epheſus, without previous information, could not ſup-
poſe it ever to have had a free communication with the oceanº.
n Strabo, 1. xiv. p. 641.
Ilappantay Eperov," Dionyſii Perieges.
211
SECTION XIII.
OF THE TEMPLE OF DIANA-ITS ANCIENT SPLENDOUR AND HIS-
-
TORY ANCIENT EPHESUS UNDER THE GREEKS AND ROMANS
-INTRODUCTION OF CHRISTIANITY BY TIMOTIIY THE FIRST
BISHOP-TAKEN BY THE CARIAN PRINCES IN 1300-FOUNDA-
TION OF AIASOLUK FROM ITS RUINS-DESCRIPTION OF THE
PRESENT VESTIGES-CAVERNS-STORY OF THE SEVEN SLEEP-
ERS IN THE KORAN-CASTLE, MOSQUE, AND AQUEDUCT, AT
AIASÒLUK.
In the Grecian hiſtory the firſt circumſtance recorded of Epheſus“,
is the ſiege by Croeſus, king of Lydia, at that time a city of the Ca-
rians rendered ſacred by the fame of Diana. To that venerable
ſtructure, one of the few wonders of the old world, the Epheſians
were proud to owe their ſuperiority over the Ionian cities. It may
be therefore, in ſome degree, amuſing to collect the accounts of dif-
ferent hiſtorians, concerning the origin, the ſplendour, and the decay
of fo celebrated an edifice.
The rude object of their primeval worſhip was a block of beech
or elm carved into the ſimilitude of Diana, not as the elegant hun-
treſs, but an Ægyptian hieroglyphic, which we call the goddeſs of
a Epheſiis Græcorum primus bellum intulit Cræſus. Epheſii ab co obfeffi fuam
urbem Dianæ donârunt fune ex æde Dianæ ad inurum allegato; erat autem inter vete-
sem urbem quæ tum obfidebatur & templum feptem ſtadiorum intervallum.” Ex
Herodoto, I. i. p. 11.
212
Nature, with many breaſts, and the lower parts formed into an her-
mæan ſtatue groteſquely ornamented and diſcovering the feet be-
neath it. This image was preſerved till the later ages in a ſhirine,
on the embelliſhment of which mines of wealth were conſumed, and
the genius of Praxiteles exhauſted.
The earlieſt temple was partially burned, and probably the roof of
timber only, by Heroſtratus, a philoſopher who choſe that method to
inſure to himfelf an immortal name on the very night on which
Alexander was born. Twenty years after that magnificent prince,
during his grand expedition for the conqueſt of Perſia, offered to ap-
propriate his fpoils to the reſtoration of it, if the Epheſians would
conſent to allow him the ſole honour"; but they rejected the pro-
b Democritus Epheſius wrote Tegi 78 ev Epéow vaš. . The original ſtatue of Diana was
placed according to Callimachus upon a block of beech wood, “ payUTFO TELÈuvw ;” but
Dionyfius ſays, “ trgèuvw EVI TTÈMEñS" in ſtipite ulini. De ipfo Deæ fimulachro ambigitur,
cæteri ex ebeno eſſe tradunt. Plin. l. xvi. C. 40.
Epheſi in æde Dianæ fimulachrum & etiam lacunaria ex cedro et ibi et in cæteris
nobilibus fanis propter æternitatem ſunt factæ. Vitruv. I. xi.
In his fixth book he relates the method uſed for tranſporting the blocks of the co-
lumns to the temple. Strabo, 1. xiv. p. 640.
When the original figure became decayed from extreme age, it was propped by two
rods of iron, like ſpits. After its renewal, theſe ſtrange additions were likewiſe adopted.
In Grævius' Thefaur. Antiq. Græc. is a curious diſſertation, “ De verubus ſimulachri
Dian. Eph.” where the cauſe of their being ſo placed is defined.
Statues of the Epheſian Diana now preſerved at Rome, in the Vatican, are one of
white marble little leſs than life, found at Adrian's villa. See Mufeo Pio. Clementino,
tom. i. tav, xxxii.
One in the Campidoglio, of alabaſter and bronze, and two others in the villa Albani.
A treatiſe on the Epheſian Diana, was publiſhed at Rome by Claudio Metetrei Rome,
1657. Montfaucon's Antiq. 1. iii. v. 15. She was called Diana Polymamma.
c Arrian de Exped. Alex. p. 18. Strabo, 1. xiv. p. 949. When Alexander became
maſter of Greece he afforded peculiar patronage to this city, and Lyſimachus, his ſuc-
213
poſal as diſgraceful for them to accept; and ſo general was the devo-
tion, that the women worked at its materials, and 220 years were
ſpent in its completion.
In this inquiry we are principally aſſiſted by Pliny and Vitruvius,
who may be ſuppoſed to have availed themſelves of the ancient do-
cuments of the greateſt credit, and of the beſt information.
The deſigner and original architect was Cteſiphon, a Cnoſſian,
affiſted by his ſon Metagenes, 541 years before the Chriſtian era;
and their plan was continued by Demetrius, a prieſt of Diana; but
the whole was completed by Daphnis of Miletus, and a citizen of
Epheſusa. It was the firſt ſpecimen of the Ionic ſtyle, and in which
the fluted column and capital with volutes were originally intro-
duced. Leſt ſo great a ſtructure ſhould be endangered by earth-
quakes, they ſelected a marſhy ſite for the foundations, which were
laid on charred piles and beds of wool. The whole length of the
temple was 425 feet, and the breadth 220; with 127 columns of
the Ionic order, and Parian marble each of a ſingle ſhaft, and ſixty
feet high'. It had a double row of columns, fifteen on either ſide;
11
ceffor, was employed in extending the walls, and arranging the internal govern-
mcnt,
Pliny, 1. xxxvi. C. 14. In Epheſi Dianæ æde primum columnis fpiræ ſubditæ et
capitella addita. L. xxxvi, c. 22.
Vitruvius, I. viii.
· Watſon's Chemical Ejays, v. iii. p. 48. from Pliny, “ Ante calcatis ea ſubſtravêre
carbonibus, dein velleribus lanz." L. xxxvi. c. 14.
f Templum Dianæ in nummis imperialibus occurrit; in eo centum & viginti ſeptem
columnæ fuerunt, ſexaginta pedum altitudine ſingulæ a ſingulis regibus factæ, ex quibus
triginta fex mirabili arte erant cælatæ. Templi deſcriptionem vide in Philone de feptem
orbis miraculis. Plin. l. xvii. c. 40.
1
214
and Vitruvius has not determined if it had a roof; probably, over the
cell only. Such dimenſions excite ideas of uncommon grandeur
from mere maſſiveneſs; but the notices we collect of its internal
ornament will increaſe our admiration. It was the repoſitory in
which the great artiſts of antiquity dedicated their moſt perfect
works to poſterity. Praxiteles and his ſon Cephiſodorus & adorned
the ſhrine; Scopas contributed a ſtatue of Hecate "; Timarete the
daughter of Mycon, the firſt female artiſt upon record', finiſhed a
picture of the goddeſs, the moſt ancient in Epheſus, and Parrhaſius
and Apelles, both Epheſians, employed their ſkill to embelliſh the
Vitruv. 1. i. c. 9, and 1. iii. c. 1, “Qui de Ionicâ ejus edificatione, ambitu & archi-
tectis plurà referunt.” Grævii Thefaur. Antiq. v. iv. p. 174. Strabo, 1. xiv. p. 641,
from Artemidorus, ſays that the architect of the ſecond temple was Chiromocrates, who
propoſed to cut mount Athos into a ſtatue of Alexander.
& Cephiſodorus Praxitelis filius “ cujus laudatum eſt Pergami ſymplegma, fignum
nobile, digitis corpori verius quam inarmori impreſſis. Plin. l. xxxvii. c. v.
h “ In cujus contemplatione monent æditui parcere oculis tanta marmoris radiatio
eft.” Ibid. 5.
i Plin. xxxv. C. II.
Strabo, 1.
p. 642.
k Parrhaſius the Epheſian painter infcribed on his works “ AC Podlaitos apetype
Τα δ' εγραψεν ;” and at other times “Παρρασιος κλέινης πατριδος εξ Εφεσε.” Mufonius.
“ Pinxit et Alexandrum magnum fulmen tenentem in templo Epheſiæ Dianiæ xx
talentis auri. Digiti eminere videntur et fulmen extra tabulam effe. Sed legentes me-
minerint ea conftare ex quatrior coloribus. Immane tabulæ pretium accepit aureos men-
ſurâ non numero; pinxit et Megabyzi ſacerdotis Dianæ Epheſiæ pompam.
1. xxxv. C. 10.
Plin.
Artium
Quas aut Parhaſius protulit aut Scopas
Hic ſaxo, liquidis ille coloribus
Solers, nunc hominem ponere, nunc Deum.
Hor. Od. l. iv. c. vii.
1
215
pannels of the walls. The excellence of theſe performances may be
ſuppoſed to have been proportioned to their price, and a picture of
Alexander graſping a thunder-bolt by the latter, was added to this
Parrhafius, as a native of Epheſus, beſtowed his moſt celebrated works on that city.
Ulyſſes feigning madneſs, Archigallus the chief prieſt of Cybele, groupes of Meleager,
Hercules, and Perſeus, Philiſcus and Bacchus, with an emblematical figure of Virtue
ſtanding near them, with another of Æneas, Caſtor and Pollux, Telephus, Achilles, Aga-
memnon, and Ulyſſes, are thoſe enumerated and moſt praiſed by Pliny. Two armed
men, the Archigallus above mentioned, with Meleager and Atalanta, were removed by
Tiberius to Rome. The Theſeus by Parrhafius, about which he had a memorable con-
teſt of art with Euphranor, was brought from Athens, and placed in the capitol. The
horrible expedient which he practiſed to repreſent the tortures of Prometheus, by pur-
chaſing an Athenian captive of Philip of Macedon, whom he ſtretched on a rack, afforded
materials for an exquiſite oration of Seneca. L. v. 34.
The Ephelian citizens encouraged the arts, and poſſeſſed many of the moſt celebrated
ſpecimens. Their architecture was conducted principally by Pharax, mentioned by Vi-
truvius with reſpect. Agaſius the ſon of Dorotheus was amongſt their moſt eminent
ſculptors. The Gladiator with his name now in the Borgheſe collection, and the Apollo
Belvidere, were diſcovered at Porto Anzio, a city founded by Nero. They had an inva-
luable picture by Xeuxis, the ſubject of which was Menelaus at the funeral of his brother.
Ephorus, the maſter of Apelles, was an Epheſian. From the pencil of the latter, they ob-
tained ſome of its ſublimeſt efforts. Of the Alexander graſping a thunder-bolt, Cicero in
his fourth oration againſt Verres, alluding to the veneration of the Greeks for particular
pictures, exclaims, " Quid Epheſios ut Alexandrum? quid Rhodios ut Ialyſum, &c.
Arrian, (De Alexand. Exped. lib. iv.) relates that he was ſeen to ſhudder on looking at
the picture of Palamedes betrayed by Ulyſſes, painted by Timanthes at Epheſus. Eu-
phranor above mentioned exhibited two of his happieſt performances, one on the ſubject
of the madneſs of Ulyffes, in competition with Parrhafius, and another of two men in
converſation. Calliphontes placed two fine pictures in the temple of Diana; and
Hittinos is alluded to by Auſonius. Idyl. x. v. 3 and 8.
From theſe imperfect documents we may conjecture what was the ſtate of painting
in the flouriſhing ages of Greece, whilſt the admiration of the Italian ſchools may induce
a regret, that the opportunity of forming a compariſon is loſt for ever. So great an in-
feriority exiſts between the deſign and execution of the Freſco paintings in the moſt per-
fect ſtate diſcovered at Herculaneum and Portici, that it may be preſumed, that many of
them were copied from the more famous works of Grecian artiſts at that time imported
into Italy.
1
216
fuperb collection, at the expence of twenty talents of gold, a ſum,
according to certain commentators on Pliny, ſo exorbitant, as ſcarce-
ly to be reconciled to an equivalent value in our money. .
The prieſts of Diana ſuffered emafculation, and virgins were de-
voted to inviolable chaſtity. They were eligible only from the ſupe-
rior ranks, and enjoyed a great revenue with privileges, the eventual
abuſe of which induced Auguſtus to reſtrain them. Amongſt others
was that of an aſylum for infolvent debtors'. For ſeveral centuries
after the poſſeſſion of the Roman emperors, and ſeven ſucceſſive in-
juries from which it ſuffered almoſt a demolition, the temple retained
an undiminiſhed ſplendour; and was finally burnt by the Goths in
their third naval invaſion ", . when the remaining beauty of the Aſia-
tic cities was totally defaced, and of thoſe in the region of the Troad
ſcarcely a veſtige can be diſcovered.
The Epheſian games, originally inſtituted by the lonians in ho-
nour of Diana, were frequented as late as the reign of Caracalla.
They bore the title of Neocori, in conſequence of having temples
and ceremonies dedicated to Claudius and Hadrian".
1 Athenaus, 1. xii. deſcribes the luxury of the prieſts of Diana and the enormous coſt
of their dyed veſtments. Strabo, l. xiv. p. 641.
Plutarch, “de ære alieno vitando."
+
m Gibbon's Roman Hift. v. i. p. 433.
Hift. Auguft. p. 178.
n Seſtini (Coll. Ainſician, v. iv. p. 112.) mentions three imperial coins with double
heads and the Ephcfian Diana “EVESINN. IIPOTAN. ASIAS" Agrippa and Julia,
Nero and Meffalina, Trajan and Plotina,
Marm. Arundel. Oxon. Seldeni,
217
In the year 409 before Chriſt the Epheſian's ſignalized them-
ſelves by a total defeat of the Athenians under Thrafyllus ; and
during the Perſian war in 395, A. C. Ageſilaus eſtabliſhed himſelf in
their city. The Roman ſenate appointed Attalus king of Pergamus,
and his ſucceſſors, guardians of the Aſiatic ſtates; and under the
imperial government Epheſus continued to increaſe in opulence
and ſplendourº; though, of the thirteen cities almoſt deſtroyed by
the earthquake in the reign of Tiberius, it did not eſcape without a
conſiderable ſhare of the calamity.
1
Timothy, the colleague of St. Paul, was the firſt biſhop of Ephc-
ſus, and eſtabliſhed the Chriſtian faith ; and under the auſpices of
Conſtantine and Theodoſius new churches were erected and the
pagan temples deſpoiled of their ornaments, or accommodated to
other worſhip.
The edict of the latter emperor, the object of which was the ſub-
Mark Anthony has a coin upon which is “ EperiWY vewropww.” And when the tem-
ple voted by the Afiatic ſtates to Claudius was built at Epheſus they were ſtyled “ Newko-
ρων των Σεβαστων.''
Xenophon. Ellenic. 1. i. p. 434. Gillies' Hift. Greece, v. iii. p. 260.
• Η δε πόλις τη προς τα αλλα ευκαιρία των τόσων, αυξεται καθ' εκάστην ημέραν εμπόριον
Oūod MÉYIOTOY TWY MATA TYY Ariav The ŠYTOS TÖ Taúps." Strabo, l. xiv. p. 642.
p The iminenſe dome of Santa Sophia now riſes from the columns of green jaſper
which were originally placed in the temple of Diana, and were taken down and brought
to Conſtantinople by order of Juſtinian. Procopius de ædificiis Juſtiniani aſcertains their
identity. Two pillars now in the great church at Pifa were likewiſe tranſported from
thence. The antiquary is frequently pleaſed to be able to trace theſe ſtupendous orna-
ments through their whole hiſtory, as compoſing in ſucceſſive ages, the grandeur of tem-
ples facred to Paganiſm, to Chriſtianity, and the Mahomedan faith.
218
verſion of thoſe magnificent piles, which had been conſecrated to the
heathen deities, was executed with the moſt laborious deſtruction;
and the ruin of the faireſt ſtructures of antiquity originated in the
zcal of the early Chriſtians 9.
Circumſtances, not abſolutely to be attributed to any ſingle cauſe,
but to thoſe periods of growth and decay which await cities as well
as men, involved Epheſus in univerſal depopulation, even before the
Greek empire was extinct. The Carian princes founded their citadel
and town, about two miles diſtant, at Aiaſoluk; and removed all
the materials for that purpoſe, ſo that upon their poſſeſſion of the
Aſiatic provinces it was totally deſerted, and the ſite remains to be
diſtinguiſhed by numerous and confuſed heaps and disjointed archi-
tecture".
.
Our firſt inveſtigation, which employed a long day, commenced
amid the maſs of ruins, which ſpread at the baſe of mount Prion,
on the north weſtern ſide. We examined the ſubſtructions and
range of vaults, once communicating with the harbour as ware-
houſes, and forming one ſide of an ample ſtreet; above which is the
9 Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. v. p. 105.
The marble ſtatues were then broken in pieces, or buried by the Pagans; whilſt
thoſe of bronze were coined into money by the Croiſaders, or the Saracens, who adopted
the ſame plan for the payment of their armies.
I « In the loſs of Epheſus, when taken by the Turks in 1300, the Chriſtians de-
plored the fall of the firſt angel, and the extinction of the firſt candleſtick of the Reve-
lations. The deſolation is complete, and the temple of Diana and the church of Mary
will equally elude the ſearch of the moſt induſtrious traveller.” Id. v. xi. p. 437. Ry-
caut's Greek Church, p. 41, et ſeq.
219
ſtadium', partly raiſed on vaults to render it level with the ſlope of
the hill; a high wall at the circular end is perfect, and conſtructed
with heavy rough ſtones. The gate of the left wing is of white mar-
ble, and nearly entire; but evidently made up of fragments in a latter
age. Ignorant of this circumſtance, Tournefort is puzzled with a
mutilated infcription, which is repeated. There are others of
Greek, but too far diſtant to be tranſcribed. The blocks of marble
are ſeveral tons weight. The pavement of a broad ſtreet then inter-
venes between another eminence of greater height, upon the brow of
which, and occupying the whole platform, are the foundations of a
ſumptuous arcade, as appears from the baſes of ſeveral columns, which
we traced to a great extent. This has been a ſpacious temple,
hitherto unnoticed". Winding round the hill, we viſited the thea-
tre which Pococke conſiders as the inferior of two, if it were not
a Naumachia ; it has two vaſt gateways, and a regular baſin ſcooped
from the marble rock, with the ſubſellia removed. Beyond is a
groupe of broken pillars and heaps of architectural fragments near
the temple voted to Claudius by the Aſiatic cities, which had a por-
tico of the Corinthian order, raiſed on four columns only, each thirty
feet in length, the moſt intire ſhaft of which meaſures more than four
feet in diameter, and one broken in two pieces is of more than half
. Of the ancient ſtadium and gynaſtic exerciſes, the hippodrome, &c. a ſatisfactory
account is given by Gillies' Hift. Greece, v. i. p. 228. from Pauſanias, l. vi. p. 382 to
390.
I ACCENSO
1
RENSI. ET. ASIÆ,
u Pococke has given ſeveral ground plans or reſtorations of them, in which the prin-
cipal ruins are deſcribed, perhaps with too great indulgence of conjecture. The gyna-
ſium, ſtadium, theatre, and ſuppoſed temple of Diana, are minutely examined.
{
220
its proportions *. The point of the tympanum with a very rich cornice
was lying near us, conſiſting of blocks ſeveral tons weight, with ca-
pitals of carved acanthus, all of white marble, ſupplied by the conti-
guous quarries of mount Prion. The fronting arca of an acre at
leaſt was incloſed by a periſtyle of black granite, of which are innu-
merable veſtiges. It was probably the agora or forum. Farther on,
and cloſe upon the brink of the preſent moraſs once covered by the
ſea, upon a riſing ground, are accumulated walls of brick faced with
large ſlabs of marble, and of ſufficient extent to encourage Tourne-
fort and the Engliſh travellers in a conjecture that this ſtructure was
the far-famed temple of Diana. Every circumſtance of deſcription,
which we know, accords with this ſpot excepting the diſtance from
the city-wall; and amongſt the fallen maſonry are broken ſafts of
porphery twelve feet long, and four in diameter, more complete and
poliſhed than others, which ſurround them. Might not this have
been the church dedicated by Juſtinian to St. Johny ?
* In the V. Pittoreſque (p. 177) are architectural details of this temple with plates.
The height of the entablature is ſtated to be ten feet; the intercolumniation one fourth of
a columin, and the column fix diameters. There is another elevation given in “ Fofati
Storia dell' Architettura, 4to. Venezia, 1749, p. 17.
The different ideas and reſtorations communicated in the works of Meneſtrier, Per-
rault, Fiſcher, and Aulifio, are imperfect and irreconcileable with the ancient accounts and
menfuration.
y In the church of St. John, that council was held in 431, which condemned Nel-
torius the patriarch of Conſtantinople for hereſy in adhering to the Eutychians.
66 The
church of the Holy Apoſtles at Conſtantinople and that of St. John at Epheſus, appear
to have been framed on the ſame model; their domes aſpired to imitate the cupolas of
St. Soplia ; but the altar was more judiciouſly placed under the centre of the dome at the
junction of four ſtately porticos, which more accurately expreſſed the figure of the
Greck croſs." Procopius de ædificiis Juftiniani, I. v. Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. vii. ,
P. 122. Svo.
The Oriental Chriſtians report that the Goſpel of St. John was written by him at
221
We purſued a narrow track up the ſide of the truly pictureſque
Correſus, and obſerved the outworks of the ancient city, built by
Lyſimachus, finiſhed by the tower above mentioned above a preci-
pice; and were delighted with a bird's-eye catch of the ſea beneath
on the left, the plain of Epheſus, infinitely interſected by the windings
of the Cäyſter, the ſublime ſcene from which we came, and Aiàfo-
luk incircled by the range of Pactyas, and exhibiting in its caſtle and
moſque the ruins of a more modern cra. Aiàſoluk was certainly
inconſiderable in the early days of Chriſtianity, nor is the conjecture
of ſome travellers relative to the church of St. John having been
built there by Juſtinian, and afterwards converted into a moſque, de-
ſerving of implicit credit. One common demolition has now over-
whelmed the parent city and its temporary rival ; and the lapſe of
many intermediate ages is not diſcernible from any ſeries of more
complete ſtructures.
t
We left the coffee hut in the village, where a very good-humour-
ed Turk had received us, to renew our inquiries; and rode to the
caves and marble quarries on the eaſt ſide of mount Prion, which are
in general large inciſions into the rock. There is a cavern as exten-
five as ſome of thoſe in Derbyſhire, but not ſo deep; the length is a
hundred yards, and the height about as many fect, both apertures be-
ing nearly equal. Of theſe are many curious traditions ?. . In the
Epheſus, which he depoſited with the church eſtabliſhed by him there. The Mahom-
medaus mention his goſpel, but are totally ignorant of his cpiſtles and the apocalypſe.
Aiaſoluk is a Turkiſh corruption from Aiaſeologos, modernized by the Greeks from
Ayios o łoroyos. See d'Herbelot Bibl. Orient.
z “ Porro in nemore, quod retro templum, antrum erat, ad quod virginibus tantum
aditus patebat, exclufis mulieribus, at Achilles Tatius refert de amoribus Chitophontis,"
and amongſt others, we recollect the ſtory of the Epheſian Matron, a ſpirited ſatire on the
ſex, which La Fontaine has made the moſt of, from Petronius Arbiter, p. 329.
222
reign of Julian, a noted fophift named Maximus occupied one of
them for the celebration of midnight orgies and the Eleuſinian myf-
terics, when that emperor was initiated, his infolent apoſtacy openly
profeſſed, and he became, as he wiſhed the world to believe, a fol-
lower of Plato,
The legendary miracle of the ſeven ſleepers, who were ſaid to
have been immured in one of theſe grottos in the reign of the perſe-
cuting Decius, and to have awakened nearly two centuries after in
that of the bigot Theodoſius, has afforded matter for the homilies of
the fathers of the Greek church, and the koran. When the popula-
rity of this ſtory was ſpread through many languages and nations,
Mohammed had patiently liſtened to the narrative camel driver, who
related it amongſt other tales for the folace of the caravan.
He then,
perhaps, little ſuſpected that he ſhould ever become the leader of
millions, and that ſuch a fable would be of conſequence enough to
be admitted into the volume, which engroſſes the faith of his fol-
lowers. But ſuch was its acceptation amongſt thoſe whom he de-
termined to conquer or conciliate; and the uſe he has made of it,
with the latitude it offered, is no proof of his original genius a.
Shakeſpeare has choſen Epheſus for the ſcene of his pleaſant “ Comedy of Errors,
and deſcribes it as London was in his days, with figus to the houſes. He ſpeaks of the
bay of Epheſus.
a Gibbon relates this ſtory from the Syriac verſion. Vol. vi. p. 32, 8vo.
James of Sarug, a Syrian biſhop, who was born only two years after the death of
the younger Theodofius, has devoted one of his two hundred and thirty homilies to the
praiſe of the young men of Epheſus.” P. 34.
Mohammed entitles the eighteenth chapter of the Koran, “ the chapter of the Cave,"
in which he directs his followers how they are to believe this celebrated miracle.
infidels ſay they were five, and that their dog was the fixth : they ſpeak by opinion ;
66 The
223
ornaments.
Following the deep valley between Prion and Correſus we paſſed
a collection of vaults and veſtiges, probably thoſe of the gymna-
fium, although Dr. Chandler fixes that edifice ſome paces farther,
where are many walls of ſuperior maſſiveneſs, but few architectural
It
may be doubted whether this be not the temple of
Diana. The grandeur of its plan and dimenſions, which are ſtill
marked by a long nave, finiſhed by an arch of great expanſe at either
termination, ſeem to favour the pretenſions of this edifice above thoſe
of the other. In various points of deſcription they correſpond, ex-
cepting that this was beyond the limits of the city walls b. For the
circumſtance of having been waſhed by the ſea, applies equally to
both ruins. But the Turks, from whoſe barbarous corruptions or
analogous terms, the real and more ancient name is in ſome in-
ſtances to be collected, call this particular ruin, undiſtinguiſhing any
.
1
but the true believers affirm them to be ſeven, and their dog to be the cighth. Say
unto them, “ My Lord knowcth liow many they were, few perſons except God know
their number. Doubt no more the Hiſtory of the Seven Sleepers, that matter is averred
and known.” Koran, by Du Ryer, p. 182.
Upon a gold coin of the Turks called armoodi, the names of the ſeven ſleepers are
thus written, “ Jemlika, Meſhelina, Miſlina, Mernoos, Debernoos, Shazenous, and Ke-
pheſtatjoos.”
b Count Choiſeul adopts the idea of his countryman Tournefort reſpecting the loca-
lity of the temple. He thus combats, with a critique, Pliny's inenſuration. “ If the facade
was 220 feet long, compoſed by eight columns each of 71 diameters or fixty feet high, al-
lowing 160 feet for the intercolumniations, 23 for each, which makes more than three
diameters, his ſtatement is contradicted by the general uſage of the Greeks, of one and
a half only." V. p. 191.
The conjectures both of Falconer and Wyndham, in the Archacologia, vols. vi. and xi.
appear to be erroneous and contradictory; nor is that of the Marcheſe Poleni, of the
academy of Cortona, more to be depended on. An able critic obferves, " that the original
temple ſtill exiſts in its ground plan, we are firmly perſuaded, and cries out againſt theſe
imaginary repreſentations of it;" but as to its real ſite and form, candour will allow, againſt
the pride of conjectural criticiſm, that the abſent are not the beſt qualified to decide.
+
224
other, “ kiſlar ferai," or the palace of virgins. The ſame name in-
duced Dr. Pococke, when inveſtigating Alexandria Troas, to decide on
a building as another temple of Diana. The analogy is certainly
great, but it will be doubted, if the Turks inquired the original pur-
poſe of the ſtructure, when they gave it that denomination.
He ſuppoſes it to have been the Gymnaſium or Athenæum, and
elucidates his conjecture by a pland. The blocks are very roughly
hcwn, evidently once cafed with poliſhed marble, of unuſual magni-
tude even compared with what we had before ſeen, which muſt ex-
cite admiration of the perfection both of thcory and practice in me-
chanics, to which the ancients had arrived. Yet the mind revolts
from reflecting on the number of flaves devoted to the completion of
ſuch ſtupendous works, and the ceaſeleſs ſeverity of their toil. Every
effect was produced, which the concentrated exertion of human
ſtrength, increaſed by ingenuity, could reach. To remove ſuch vaſt
blocks of marble, and to connect them with the building, created a
neceſſity in which originated the ſimple and ever admirable ſyſtem of
ancient mechanics; we are ſtill diſappointed that on ſuch ſubjects
C “Sic enim hæc gens fuam linguam amat, ut omnium locorum quæ invaferit, ftatim
immutet nomina, aliaque imponat nova, incognita, non priſtinorum nominum interpreta-
tionem habentia, ſed quidvis aliud potius ſignificantia, nondum enim ſe rebus potiri putant,
niſi nominum potiantur." Gyllius Top. Conft. 1. iv. c. ult.
d Ideas of the temple of Diana are very vaguely communicated by the reverſes of
Epheſian coins.
Mr. Falconer (Archaelog. v. xi. p. 1.) gives the following ſtatement of its dimenſions.
Portico octoſtyle, 217 feet 6 inches without the projection of the ſteps or baſes; length
427 feet 6 inches, excluſive of the ſteps and baſe ; 307 feet 6 inches from one of the antæ
to the other ; 217 feet 6 inches from gate to gate; cell 184 feet 6 inches; hypethros
77 feet to inches.
225
their hiſtorians ſhould give us partial ſatisfaction. On the oppoſite
banks are very conſiderable veſtiges of maſſive maſonry.
We now turned our attention towards Aiaſoluk, a village con-
ſiſting of about a dozen ſmall ſquare buildings of brick, formerly
applied either as oratories or baths. Some of them are inhabited by
thoſe Turks who have not a mud cottage ; but all are miſerably
poor. Aſcending the hill ſome paces, is a large portal, once leading
to the citadel or palace. It is wholly built with Roman tiles cemented
in upright rows, and faced with poliſhed marble, incloſing more than
an acre; and even yet, many huge fragments are ſtanding in the
The Saracenic princes of Caria held their court at Aiafolùk in
the fourteenth century. Over the gateway above a very rich frize,
which was certainly erected after the introduction of Chriſtianity,
and taken from ſome public building at Epheſus, three pieces of ex-
cellent ſculpture are inſerted. That in the centre, in alto relievo,
repreſents the bringing the corpſe of Patroclus to Achilles, and that
on the right may be the ſequel of the ſame ſtory; the other, in bas
relief, repreſents boys and wreaths of vines º.
។
area.
The common Greeks' call it the gate of perſecution, and have
• Engraved in Wood's Eſſay on Homer, in two vignettes; the other compartment is
copied in the “ Voyage Pittoreſque de la Grèce."
f Sandys very ſenſibly remarks, “ Theſe are all the remaines that are left of ſo many
goodly buildings, and from all parts congeſted antiquities, wherewith this ſovereigne city
was in times paſt ſo adorned, and with them are their memories periſhed. For not a Greek
can ſatisfy an inquirer in the hiſtory of their owne calamities; fo ſupinely negligent are
they, or perhaps ſo wiſe, as of paſſed evils to endeavor a forgetfulneſſe.” The common
term they ufed for ruins of every defcription is τα καστρα, or τα παλάια ; and they attri-
bute them all to the Genoeſe ; prior to whom they do not ſeem to think that any nation
has exiſted. This extreine ignorance is not peculiar to the lower ranks; but few of the
papàs, or parochial clergy, will be found to poſſeſs ſuperior information.
Gg
226
been taught to believe that it repreſents the tortures and martyrdom
of the primitive Chriſtians. The caftle about a furlong farther is
a fortreſs of the middle centuries, ſaid to have been conſtructed by
John Ducas Vataces, emperor of Nicæa, according to Tournefort. .
It reſembles that of Smyrna, embattled with femitowers, ſquare,
round, and angular; the eaſtern ſide much lower, and the north
ſcarcely more than the natural faſtneſs. Beneath on the right is the
large moſque, now unroofed, and the domes robbed of their lead,
the minarèh in decay, and the exterior walls only perfect; four co-
lumns of poliſhed porphery, exactly reſembling thoſe at Epheſus, are
admirable. When the Ottoman princes obtained poſſeſſion of cities,
they uſually converted the Greek churches into imperial moſques,
and laviſhed extraordinary treaſures on their embelliſhment. This
edifice preſents a ſpecimen of the high Aſiatic ſtyle, as the portal is
inlaid with ſquares of various marble, and emboſſed with Arabic in-
fcriptions; the frames of the windows have a kind of cellular ſculpture
very elaborately wrought. The whole is unequally divided by a
wall, over one part of which the domes and partly fallen minarèh
remain, the other incloſed a ſtately ambulatory and fountain. As
Aiaſoluk owed its foundation to Mantakkìah and the Carian princes
at the commencement of the fourteenth century, it is probable that
they built the moſque and citadel. So broad a ſurface of white
marble has much ſplendour as a maſs, and is a chief object in the
firſt glance of the view.
Behind this hill, which is inſulated, an arcade ſtretches for ſome
Gyllius likewiſe complains of the difficulty attending theſe inquiries, “ut nihil metiri
nihil percontari libere auſus ſim, non modo a Barbaris, ſed ne a Græcis quidem, quibus
nihil a literis alienius.” Topogr. Conſtant. 1. iv. c. ultim.
The "gate of Perſecution" is one of the beſt of the fine plates in the V. Pittoreſque.
1
227
furlongs over the valley, once the aqueduct built with Epheſian
fpoils. There are thirty-ſeven arches of brick, frequently broken in,
and the piers piled together, without diſcrimination, of fractured
members of architecture, capitals, columns, altars, with reverſed
and nearly obliterated inſcriptions in great profuſion, and not a few
of exquiſite workmanſhip. It ſupplied the acropolis and the city
beneath it, but its fource, the Halitæa, once lo copious and ſacred, is
now dry. Aqueducts are uſually the leaſt intereſting ſpecimens of
ancient architecture, excepting when they are of extraordinary di-
menſions and extent. This ſtructure evinces that total devaſtation
to which the ancient city was reduced.
During the few nights we paſſed at Aiaſoluk we were diſturbed
by the inceſſant cries of the jackals (the chical of the Turks and
the canis aureus of Linnæus), which are the moſt diſtreſsful imagin-
able. They collect in packs amongſt the ruins of Epheſus. Haſſel-
quiſt (p. 277) adduces ſatisfactory proof of his opinion, that the
foxes of Samſon were jackals, and ought to be ſo tranſlated where-
ever they are mentioned in ſcripture. The prophet Jeremiah, de-
ſcribing the future deſolation of the holy city, has this very ſtriking
image, now verified of Epheſus; “ Zion is deſolate, the foxes walk
1
upon it 8.”
Having completed our reſearches, we had the fatisfaction to re-
cogniſe all that had been hitherto noticed; amuſing ourſelves with
opinions reſpecting ſome veſtiges, which had either eſcaped former
& Buſbeqius relates (Epift. p. 78. 12ino. edit. Elzevir), “Non procul indc audio
magnum clainorein et veluti hominum irridentium inſultantiumque voces, interrogo quid
ſit, et num fortaſſe nautæ nos irriderent? narrant mihi ululatum effe beſtiarum, quas
Turcæ Chiacalcs vocant. Lupi funt vulpibus majores, communibus lupis minores."
I
1
228
examination, or might have been conſidered as unworthy of parti-
cular detail. Whoever viſits theſe claſſic regions, will learn with
what difficulty he can transfer the idea, which ariſes in his own
mind, to the imagination of others, who are ſtrangers to the ſcene.
He will be undetermined, as to what objects he ſhould ſelect for
defcription amidſt ſuch a chaos of dilapidations; and may fail,
as much from too curſory a view, as from a tireſome minute-
neſs.
229
1
SECTION XIV.
ROAD FROM EPHESUS TOWARD MILETUS-
SCALA NOVACOF-
FEE HUTS, AND THE VENERATION OF THE TURKS FOR LARGE
TREES-MOUNT MYCALE-CHAMÆLEONKELIBESH-PRIENE
-TEMPLE OF MINERVA POLIAŞPANIONIAN GAMES-MOUNT
LATMOSMILETUS.
AMONGST the eminent men born at Epheſus, were Artemidorus,
who wrote a hiſtory of Ionia, and a ſyſtem of geography, and Hera-
clitus, the melancholy philoſopher a.
Our road to Miletus conducted us at the foot of mount Prion,
under the ſingle tower known by tradition as the priſon of St. Paul.
It is probable, that both the level ſummits of the hill, as well as the
acclivities, were once covered with ſumptuous buildings, which muſt
have added fuperior grandeur to the whole proſpect. We are told
that the tombs of St. John and Timothy were both in that ſpot, de-
corated with ſtately ſtructures 6. Againſt a flope ſtill farther from
the town are many ſmall vaults, originally ſerving as catacombs for
families of ſuperior rank. Doubtleſs, were they examined, many
a Meurfii Bibliotheca Græca. To the former Strabo is much indebted; the latter
was called “ OZOTĒLVOS," on account of his obſcure and unamiable philoſophy. .
• Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. vii. p. 122. By an early tradition, the Epheſians claim
likewiſe the ſepulchre of the Virgin Mary, which was confirmed by the ſynod. The ſu-
perior claim of Jeruſalem is now allowed both by the Greek and Latin churches.
-
239
funereal reliques would reward a judicious reſearch. But for ſuch
an experiment it is vain to hope; nor could it be attempted without
exciting the furious jealouſy of the inhabitants, as well Greeks as
Turks, all of whom believe that immenſe treaſures are fecreted under
the ruins. Theſe they conceive to be a general property, and there-
fore carefully prevent any individual from collecting for himſelf.
No one could be bribed to attempt it without an order from the
Porte, to which they would unwillingly ſubmit. Although the fields
were ſtrewn with pieces of glaſs and fine pottery, our inquiries after
coins were unſucceſsful; whoever had found any were fearful to dif-
poſe of them to ſtrangers, leſt a ſuſpicion ſhould be excited, which
would involve them in a kind of perſecution.
On the left diſtance a dreary heath was pleaſingly relieved by the
verdant village of Arvafly, the ancient Ortygia, ſtill famous, as in
Strabo's time, for groves of cypreſsº. Following a defile for ſome
miles, we croſſed the fragment of the walls of Pygela, once famous
for the temple of Diana Munychia, built by Agamemnon, and we
gained a riſing ground, which preſents a lively view of Scala Nova,
or Kouſhadaffy, the ancient Neapolis, incircled by a perfect fortifica-
tion with a tower, on a rocky promontory, jutting out into the ſea.
On our deſcent we rode a mile of two along the ſhore of the Ægean,
admiring the cærulean tranſparency of the waves, and the ſmaoth-
neſs of the ſurfaced, Scala Nova is built chiefly on a round knowl,
• « Η Ορτυγία, δια πρέπες αλσος παντοδαπές ύλης, κυπαρί ττε δε της πλειστης."
Strabo, 1. xiv. p. 639.
# The ſea, called by the moderns Archipelago, had anciently two names. The
higher part, near the Helleſpont, was called the “ Ægean,” from the river Aryoowitapos;
and from the iſland of Nicaria to the Mediterranean, “ the Icarian," from the ſtory of
Dædalus and Icarus.
Icaro daturus
" Nomina ponto.
Hor.
231
1
and is a modern fiſhing town, famous likewiſe for its manufacture of
dyed leather. We dined at a coffee-hut under a clump of luxuriant
plane trees. The veneration which the Turks have for old trees,
originates in a rational principle of gratitude, for they certainly owe
to them much of the ſolace of their days.
Trees of ſpacious ſhade and in cluſters are the more to be valued,
as they do not often occur. It is truly admirable in what an equal
ftate of rich verdure and foliage they continue for a whole ſummer,
whilſt the plains around them are burnt up with the extreme heat.
When a plantation of this deſcription is found near the road ſide, it
has been immemorially occupied. A temporary ſhed is built, and a
ſmall ſtove made, and coffee is always ready to refreſh the wearied
traveller. To this are frequently added melons and carpous f, of the
moſt delicious juice; “ the joint tenant of the ſhade" is a muſician,
who tinkles a tambourin, or Turkiſh guitar, as an accompaniment to
the airs, of which love is the inexhauſtible ſubject 6.
Of the lower iſlands, thoſe contiguous to the coaſt of Caria had the appellation of
Sporades, and the others of Cyclades.
Spårfalque per æquor
Cyclades, et crebris legimus freta confita terris.
Æn. 1. ii.
Gilpin's Foreſt Scenery, v. i. p. 291.
f " Cucurbita citrullus." Linnæi.
Haffelquiſt's Voyage into the Levant, p. 255. The mode of preparing coffee by Afia-
tics differs much from that introduced into Europe by the French. The grain is reduced
to an impalpable powder, and a large coffee-pot made of the common ſtrength always kept
boiling on the hearth. A very finall one is then filled with this decoction, to which a
ſpoonfull of freſh coffee is added, and it is poured into cups inuch leſs than ours, and drank
thick and lot as poſſible.
ah
s Eſſay on the Poetry of the Eaſtern Nations, by Sir W. Jones.
1
232
The happineſs of a Turk is of the quieſcent fort. It is not un-
uſual for a good citizen of Conſtantinople to leave his houſe at a very
early hour, and to reſort to one of theſe bowers, where, in a fume of
tobacco, and almoſt perfect filence, the whole day is paſſed; and he
returns highly ſatisfied with the relaxation. In the ſame manner
harèms of women are brought in painted waggons, drawn by white
oxen finely harneſſed, and indulge themſelves in more activity and
freedom. Indeed, at many of theſe retreats, the amuſements are not
ſo pure and ſimple, where are troops of Greek boys and girls who
dance, like the ancient Lydians, and ſet all decency at defiance h.
A large ſcene drawn acroſs cuts off all communication between men
and women at theſe places, whoſe retirement is held ſacred. I have
ſatisfied my curioſity by procuring tranſlations of the ſongs which are
moſt admired by them, all of which deſcribe the torture of ungrati-
fied paſſion, without an expreſſion of ſentiment or refinement; but
ſuch is the debafed rank that the ſex holds in the ſcale of eaſtern fo-
ciety; and the Turks, like the ancient Romans,“
love, and love without decency or reſpect.”
marry without
Mount Mycale, on our right-hand proſpect, with pictureſque
foreſts or fertile vallies, and a fine bay of the fea, filled the inter-
vening route to Sukioy, where we reſted for the night, in an execra-
ble khan.
We advanced under the magnificent heights of mount Mycale,
having an expanded plain of burnt herbage to our left, bounded at
the extremity by mount Titanos (Baſpar-mach), peering with its
ſpiral top into the clouds of a mid-day ſky. We were induced to
h Abbè Bartelemy has happily pourtrayed the muſic and dances of the Ionians.
“ Il regne (ſays he) dans leurs dances et leur muſique une liberté, qui commence par re-
volter et finit par ſeduire."
11
233
halt by the fingularity of the ſcene. Maſſes of grey marble rock,
fringed with lychens of the moſt glowing variety, and ſo infinitely
accumulated, were new to us in a tour in which mountain ſcenery
had been moſt frequent. Every feature and circumſtance were cha-
racteriſed by that wildneſs which is one ſource of the ſublime. Se-
veral eagles were perched on the higheſt crag, or were foaring above
our heads. The hoarſeſt note of the raven was re-echoed; and we
could diſcern the lurking-places of wild beaſts, and the camelion
baſking on the ſcars, as enjoying perfect ſecurity, changing its colour',
or eſcaping with wonderful agility'.
Three hours beyond we arrived at Kelibeſh, a Greek village of
recent eſtabliſhment, built ſteeply againſt the hill, with low houſes and
terrace roofs, upon which the women crowded to ſee us, two of whom
only had genuine pretenſions to the beauty of the antique. The Greek
ſervant found, on inquiry, that they were papathìas, or the wives of
prieſts. The ſecular clergy are ordained from amongſt the common
people, and are not allowed to marry after they have entered the
pale of the church. They therefore provide themſelves before that
ceremony; and as the daughters are ſolely at the diſpoſal of the
pa-
rents, and the future maintenance certain, the fineſt women fall to
their ſhare, who are given them that they may have leſs temptation
1
i « Lacerta Chamæleon.” Haſſelquiſt (p. 216) attributes the power of frequently
changing colour, which this animal poſſeſſes, to its exuberance of bile, which it can diffuſe
over its body, on occaſions of fear or anger. It is perfectly harmleſs and defenceleſs, and
by no means rare in this part of Aſia. The natural colour is iron grey, which it can vary
with every ſhade of brown and yellow. One is ſaid to have lived twenty-four days
without food in a cage, when it appeared to have ſuffered from hunger. Its food are flies,
which are ſometimes caught as it fits watching for them with open mouth. On the dir-
ſection of one, the veſica urinaria was not found.
Dr. Chandler (p. 57) likewiſe mentions one as feeding on flies; the idea of their
living on air is an ancient popular fable.
H h
L
234
to irregularity. All the qualification required of theſe parochial
prieſts is to be able to read ancient Greek with the modern accent;
to underſtand it is a very rare attainment, and a degree of literature
to be envied by moſtk. Their income ariſes chiefly from the offices
of the church, and various pious frauds, for which they are paid
ſmall fums.
The houſe of our hoſt, who ſeemed to poſſeſs all the loquacity of
his nation, commanded a very fine expanſe of vale, cultivated in large
patches, and the Meander gliſtening at the foot of the mountains of
Balatſha. We dined on part of a wild boar, which a peaſant had
ſhot during the night, in the foreſt, where they abound as in the
days of Herodotus'. The haradj, or capitation tax, paid by every male
ſubject ten years of age, in this diſtrict, exacts from each ſeven piaſtres
a year. Many Greeks ſurrounded us as we regaled; and when we
ſeduced our janiſſary to drink ſome wine, a lover of phyſiognomy had
been much entertained by their countenances.
The ruins of Priene, or Cadme, the Samſun Kaleſy of the Turks,
lie about two miles from Kelibèfh, by a dangerous winding track.
It was one of the more ancient Ionian cities, and, ſix centuries before
the Chriſtian era, the birth-place of Biasm, chief of the ſeven ſages,
k “ La religion d'un peuple conduit par des prêtres, qui pour la plupart a peine
favent lire, ne peut étre q'un culte exterieur & informe. L'ignorance du clergé annonce
donc & entretient neceflairement celle de la nation, aufli elle eſt exceſſivement en fait
de prodigues d'augures de preſages, des fonges." De Guy's Voyage literaire, t. i. p. 134.
1 Herodot. 1. i. c. 34.
Samſun Kaleſi was taken in 1391 by Bazazid in his conqueſt of Ionia.
m Bias of Priene wrote two thouſand verſes, according to Diogenes Laertius, " waps
Iwvias live MQAICTA QV TPOTIOy Eudavporõvn." Meurſii Biblioth. Græca.
235
who eſtabliſhed a ſchool of politics and juriſprudence. He was like-
wiſe a didactic poet. Strabo attributes the origin of this city to
Æpytus, and reports that it was afterward increaſed by Philotas and
a colony of Thebans, and became ſo conſiderable as to withſtand a
ſiege by Ardys, the ſucceſſor of Gyges king of Lydia. To the fleet,
which was formed near the iſland of Ladè, oppoſite Mileţus, in the
unſucceſsful war againſt the Perſians, they contributed twelve ſhips;
a proof of their opulence and power at that period. An inveterate
enmity ſubſiſted between them and the Samians, in a ſingle conteſt
with whom they killed more than a thouſand men; but in a war
with the Mileſians, ſeven years afterward, the chief of their citizens
were flainn
Having paſſed ſeveral vaults, we entered at the eaſtern gate, the
remaining arch of which conſiſts only of a ſingle row of ſtones, and
threatens inſtant falling. Upon the platform above are ſcattered
members of the Doric order, of conſiderable fize; and upon a bold
artificial terrace ſtill higher are heaped in the grandeft confuſion the
In the Muſeo Pio-Clementino at the Vatican is a buſt inſcribed on the pedeſtal,
ΒΙΑΣ. ΤΙΡΙΟΙ. ΠΛΕΙΣΤΟΙ. ΝΕΥΣ. ΟΗΙΛΕΙΣΤΟΙ, ΑΝΘΡΩΠΟΙ. ΚΑΚΟΙ, difcovered at the
Tiburtine villa of Caſſius.
« Μάιανδρος λιτσαρησι κατερχεται εις αλα διναις
« Μιλητ8 τε μεσηγυ και ευρoχoρδιο Πριηνης.”
Dionys. Perieges. v. 825.
Strabo, 1. xiv. p. 633.
Herodotus, l. vi. c. 6.
Diodorus Siculus, l. xii. p. 88.
Plutarch. Quaft. Græc. xx.
Marm. Oxon. No, xxxv. p. 39. Edict of Lyſimachus to the Samians as umpire in
a diſpute of territory between them and the Prieneans.
Abbate Seſtini (Coll. Ainſleian, v. iv. p. 114) notices coins with the head of Minerva,
reverſe, a trident between the windings of the Meander. « ΠΡΙΗ. ΔΙΣ. ΑΓΟ. ΠΡΙΗΝ-
ΕΩΝ.»
236
disjointed columns of the temple of Minerva Polias, or the “ Civic,”
a fane of the higheſt celebrity, both for extent and beauty. Nothing
more deciſive concerning the original building of this temple by
Alexander can be collected, than from a marble inſcribed with his
name, and recording the event, which was ſeen by Dr. Chandler.
The ſtatue of Minerva is highly praiſed by Pauſaniasº. The edifice
appears to have been of that deſcription of architecture called Perip-
tera, a nave or cell ſurrounded by columns. It was the work of
Pitheus, who built likewiſe the tomb of Mauſolus at Halicarnaſſus,
one of the wonders of the world.
1
Although the demolition be complete, and there ſeems to be no-
thing of its original form left for time to deſtroy, yet the architec-
tural parts are mutilated in ſo ſmall a degree, and preſerve ſo much
of their richneſs, that the imagination is encouraged to put all toge-
ther. Some ſheep and goats were brouzing, and reminded us of
maſters whoſe landſcapes cattle and ruins mutually adorn.
The elevation of this auguſt pile was open and complete on each
ſide, excepting the north, where the acropolis roſe from a cliff broad
and bare, perpendicular, and of ſtupendous height. On the ap-
proach from Kelibeſh, this hill appears lumpiſh, with a ſudden fall,
and others overtopping it behind, which are among the moſt lofty
ſummits of Mycale. The temple was of the Ionic order in common
with thoſe of the era of improved architecture, of which veſtiges are
now ſeen in this province. Priene, after the inſtitution of the
panionian games”, though of inferior extent, held great influence
• L. vii. p. 558.
• The panionian games, in honour of Minerva, were of very ancient inſtitution.
All the Ionian cities aſſiſted at the ceremony, and the priority and fuperintendance were
claimed by the Prienians. Dr. Chandler places the ſite of thefe fplendid exhibitions on
1
1
1
237
with the aſſociated cities. There were two commodious ports; and
it ſeems that the greater part of the city was contiguous to them,
lying under the eaſtern hill of the citadel, at ſome diſtance from the
public buildings.
The ſea cloſes the lateral view with pleaſing effect, at the dif-
tance of four or five miles; for the total change in the face of the
country by the river Meander, is ſtill more wonderful than that of
the vale of Cäyſter. Some have conjectured that ſo extraordinary a
phenomenon muſt have been effected by a violent convulſion of na-
ture: no ſuch event is recorded; and it may be the more juſt con-
cluſion, that in conſequence of the decay and deſertion of theſe cities,
no precautions have been taken to prevent the accumulation of ſoil
by the rivers, which in ſo many ages has formed a new territory?
r
We now purſued our journey to Miletus, which appeared at the
extremity of the view much nearer than in reality. The ſetting fun
produced the richeſt variety of tints in the oppoſite ſky, above mount
Latmos; amongſt them was a lovely violet glow, ſuch as is rarely, if
ever, ſeen in England. The moon ſucceeded in full ſplendour, and
caſting her pale gleam over a lofty point of mount Latmos, called to
the other ſide of mount Mycale, three itadia from the ſea, within the diſtrict of Priene.
The aſſociates were Miletus, Meius, Priene, Colophon, Lebedos, Teios, Clazimene,
Erythræ, Phocæa, on the continent; Smyrna was afterward added, as a mark of the high-
eſt diſtinction, with the iflands of Samos and Chios, all of which fent deputies, who pre-
ſided at the Panionium, for the diſtribution of the honours. To how low an era theſe
games were continued, is ſhown by a coin ſtruck by the Colophonians, in the reign of
the emperor Gallus, with a repreſentation of the panionian ceremonies on its reverſe.
9 Pauſanias, 1. viii. c. 25.
Strabo (l. xii. p. 579), ſpeaking of the effects of the Meander in making new ground,
gives, as an inſtance, that Priene, once ſituate on the ſhores of the ſea, was now become
forty ftadia diſtant from it, by an accumulated bank of earth.
238
mind the fable of Diana viſiting Endymion, appropriated to that
ſpot'. We ſhared the ſame inconvenience with moſt travellers, of
loſing our road on the plain; and, after wandering by moonlight
more than three hours, we found ourſelves at a ferry on the brink of
the Meander, deep and muddy, over which we paſſed in a triangular
float, and arriving at Balatíha, the whole village of Turks had re-
tired to reſt, ſo we were compelled to join a troop of camel drivers,
and borrowing their mats, prepared for reſt, amid the ruins of
Miletus.
Μικρόν δασωθεν διαζαντι προς τα Λατμω ποταμισκον, δείκνυται τάφος Ενδυμι ωνος
ay TIVE OWINGIw." Strabo, l. xiv. p. 636.
The fable of Endymion is faid, by Olympiodorus, to refer to his ſtudying aſtronomy
in ſolitude, from which circumſtance he is deſcribed to have ſlept perpetually, and to have
been beloved by the Moon.
1
239
SECTION XV.
SKETCH OF TII E HISTORY OF MILETUS-THEATRE-MOSQUE
-
FLOCK OF CRANES-GIAWR URA-TEMPLE OF APOLLO AT
BRANCHIDÆ-GREEK DANCES -WHIRLWIND AND THUNDER-
STORM-THOMASIA —CAVERN UNDER THE PROMONTORY OF
TROGYLLIUM-VOYAGE TO
SAMOS-ACCOUNT OF SAMOS-
TEMPLE OF JUNO-RUINS OF THE CITY-VATHI-VOYAGE TO
CLAROS AND COLOPHON
CONJECTURE OF THE ORACULAR
CAVE.
D'Anville, miſled by Cellarius, has erroneouſly traced the courſe
of the Meander, and the real ſite of Miletus. It certainly commu-
nicated with the gulph of Latmos, which he has placed too near
Epheſus.
The origin of this magnificent city is involved in fabulous obſcu-
rity, and is given to Miletus, the father of Caunus and Byblis, whoſe
ſtory is embelliſhed by Ovid.
« In Aſide terrâ
“ Mænia conſtituis poſitoris habentia nomen.'
MET. I. ix. 740.
In the ſixth century before Chriſt it was beſieged by Ardys king
of Lydia, and the temple of Minerva Aſſeſia burnt by Alyattes, who
was forced, in expiation, to erect two temples to that goddeſs. It
was the only city of Lower Aſia not taken by Harpagus in 539 A. C.
Upon the naval defeat of the Grecians at Ladè, it yielded to the
240
1
Perſians; and was afterward the ſcene of war during the conteſt be-
tween the Athenian and Peloponneſian ſtates. It oppoſed Alexander
in his Perſian expedition; for after the battle of the Granicus, and
the ſubmiſſion of the Epheſians, Miletus, under Memnon, made a
ſhort but vigorous defence againſt him; and when in poſſeſſion of
the Roman republic, it became a free city, and was added to the king-
dom of Attalus a.
1
Miletus owed all its magnificence to commerce and manufac-
tures, principally of wool', and eſtabliſhed colonies in a far greater
proportion than any of the Ionian cities. On the ſhores of the Hel-
leſpont, the Propontis, and even of the Euxine, they could boaſt the
dependance of many populous communities. From ſuch ſources of
wealth, they derived the power of cultivating the arts, literature, and
elegance, in a degree which excited at once the admiration and envy
of their aſſociate cities, and procured them the name of the “ proud
Mileſians.”
Thales , a ſtar of that conſtellation of wiſdom which illuminated
Athenæus, l. xii. p. 563. Herodot. 1. vi. c. 6; ibid. c. xxxi. et ſeq. Gillies's Hift.
of Greece, v. i. p. 341.
B « Alter Mileti textum cane pejus et angue
“ Vitabit Chlamyden.”
Hor. Epift. 1. i. 17.
Cum circum Mileſia vellera nymphæ
Carpebant hyali faturo fucata colore."
Virg. Georg. 1. iv. c. 335.
€“ Huc quoque Mileto miſli venêre coloni
Inque Getas Graias conſtituere domus.
Ovid. Triſt. 1. iii. eleg. 9.
d Proclus in Euclid. Gillies's Hift. of Greece, v. ii. p. 129.
241
Grecce, a citizen of Miletus, was the father of mathematics, and the
firſt who attempted fyſtem in the ſcience of aſtronomy; he was ſuc-
ceeded by Anaximandere and Anaximenes', who extended it by
practical experiments. Anaxagoras was their ſucceſsful follower.
Hecatæus firſt wrote hiſtory in proſe; Cadmus & and Dionyſius h
compiled the annals of their country with great ability, and furniſhed
materials for the more claſſic hiſtorians of the Grecian ſchool.
Aſpaſiai and Timotheus k profeſſed the Socratic philoſophy, and
At Tivoli, with ſeveral other buſts of the Grecian ſages, was diſcovered the pedeſtal
of one inſcribed « RAAHE. EEAMTOT. MIAHEIOS.” now in the Vatican.
c Anaximander lived in the 42d olympiad. He firſt obſerved the ſolſtices and the
equinoxes, and invented a ſphere, a gnomon, and a horoſcope. He held that the ſun was
twenty-ſeven times larger than the moon.
f Anaximenes flouriſhed in the 58th olympiad, and maintained the univerſal prin-
ciple of air.
g The works of Cadmus were tranſcribed by Bion of Proconneſus, and by him re-
duced into ſhort chapters.
h Dionyſius wrote his hiſtories, and amongſt others three books on the Trojan war,
in the 65th olympiad. Suidas.
i Athenæus, I. xiii. Plutarch, p. 637.
When Aſpaſia became the wife or miſtreſs of Pericles of Athens, ſhe is ſaid to have
cauſed the Samian and Peloponneſian wars. Her buſt, inſcribed AEIIASIA, is in the
Vatican. Hif. Acad. Infc. t. xix. p. 122.
k Timotheus is reported not to have ſucceeded in early life, though he afterward at-
tained to an unrivalled degree of excellence. The Spartans were ſo exaſperated againſt
him, on account of his avarice, that he hardly eſcaped public accuſation ; and he was
cenſured by the Lacedemonians for having added four to the ſeven ſtrings of the ancient
lyre. Jof. Barberins de miferia Græcorum Poetarum. Gronov. v. X. p. 839.
I i
242
muſic, with unrivalled fame. Hippodamus, thc Mileſian architect,
was famous for his works in the iſland of Rhodes. Theſe, amongſt
many others, advanced the claim of Miletus as a feat of learning,
which the opulence and munificence of its citizens were employed
to patronize'. It was obſerved, that with theſe refinements, the
moſt licentious manners kept an equal pace, and that their luxury
became leſs eaſy to be reſiſted, as it was diffuſed by every variety of
elegance, and all the arts of poliſhed life.
The theatre is elevated above the Meander, upon a ſite ſo ad-
vantageous, that the later Greeks, or Genoeſe, deſigning a forti-
fication that ſhould command the river, placed a ſtrong. tower
upon its centre, built with rubbifh and fragments of marble. .
Both for plan and dimenſions it had no equal in Ionia; it is
likewiſe in that ſtate which does not ſuperſede an accurate proof
of what it has once been. The front is more perfect than any
we afterward examined. It was finiſhed by two ſpacious portals
four hundred feet diſtant from each other, which have oppoſite
entrances into the theatre, and lead to three long paſſages, arched,
and one above another, with many door-ways communicating with
the feveral rows of fubfellia, which are broad and ſhallow; a circum-
ſtance that ſeems to prove that the ancient Greeks ſat, like the mo-
derns, with their legs under them. Judging from the admeaſure-
ment of the Ionic cornices, which are proſtrate on the ground be-
neath, the ornaments of which are unuſually large, the façade
muſt have been equally ſuperb from its embelliſments as its mag-
1 Abbè Barthelemy, in his “ Voyage d'Anacharſis," has given a chronological cata-
logue of eminent men of Miletus. Democritus, the rival of Heraclitus, was the moſt ce-
lebrated philoſopher and voluminous author. Diogenes Laertius recites ſeventy of his
works, chiefly of ethics and natural hiſtory; Suidas praiſes two of them. Vitruvius, 1. xx.
" Multas res attendens, admiror etiam Democriti de rerum naturâ volumina."
Pliny notices a work of his, “ De vi & naturâ Chanıæleontis," 1. xxviii. c. 8.
c. 31
243
nitude m. The proſcenium, the foundations of which we traced, was
advanced in a ſmall degree in the centre of the front, and was two
hundred feet wide. Within theſe walls the tragedics of Æſchylus,
Sophocles, and Euripides, were exhibited to multitudes. It was here
that the divine muſic of Timotheus was firſt heard; and that Ar-
paſia, whilſt her beauty ſubdued the hearts, could as irreſiſtibly con-
vince by her ſophiſtry the faſcinated minds of the Mileſians.
Immediately beneath the theatre is a large and low building,
with battlements, and a flat roof, furniſhed within with
many
vaulted
cells, which appears to have been originally erected by Genoeſe for
barracks, or uſed as a khan.
m Vitruvius may be conſulted concerning a Grecian theatre, a plan of which is given
in the 66 Voyage of Anacharſis.” I ſubjoin an extract from Scaliger, concerning the
ſcenes and part of the theatre. “ Propterea vero quod multarum facies regionum expli-
cabantur, neque locus aptus erat ad capiendum, diſponebant vela quædam cum abacis &
picturis non fine nominibus, quæ certis penſilia machinis ſtatuebantur. In iis montium,
marium, fluminum, oppidorum, ſpecies, natura, fitus, ftatus effieta erant. Antc ſcenain
quibuſdam in theatris ambitioſioribus additæ porticus, ornatûs gratiâ, cum columnis, peri-
ſtyliis & faftigiis. Ante quas Proſcenium apertum videbatur, in quo agebant e ſcenâ
egreſſi. Item, in magnificis theatris ſub proſcenio, hypoſcenium aliquanto depreſſius id
quod per gradus deſcendebant. Græca orcheſtra fuit amplior & ſcenarum receſſus pro-
fundiores. Theatri.partes præterea nullæ, niſi cellas connumeres ſubterraneas, in quibus
vaſa ærea diſponebantur, ad reddendum acceptas voces pleniores."
But Palladio's theatre at Vincenza preſents a correct model, on a ſmall ſcale, and
gave me an idea of the antique which no verbal deſcription could communicate. Scamozzi
has publiſhed plans and ſections of it. The Greek theatres were erected by a ſociety of
men called Dionyfiafts, becauſe plays were firſt acted at the feaſts of Bacchus. They con-
tracted for the building of theatres, which they ſuperintended as architects, and may
have
certain analogy in common with the maſter maſons of the middle ages, originally aſſociated
after the introduction of Gothic architecture in the north of Italy, by whom the cele-
brated churches of Piſa, Orvietto, and Milan, &c. were built, and who furniſhed deſigns
for moſt of the ecclefiaftical ſtructures in Europe.
a.
n Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. viii. p. 116. Dryden's Ode on St. Cecilia's Day.
244
From theſe ruins we overlooked the ſite of the proud Miletus,
the mother of Aſiatic cities, which is now very thickly ſtrewn with
the remains of more modern buildings, of churches and baths, all
wearing the ſame face of demolition, and equally overthrown. One
ſmall but bcautiful moſque of marble ſtill remains, and a tradition is
current amongſt the better informed Greeks, that it can boaſt the
architecture of Iſodorus of Miletus, who was employed by Juſtinian
to rebuild the dome of Santa Sophia at Conſtantinople. It is
certainly of high antiquity, but it may be thought of an era lefs
remote.
Independently of reflections and images of claſſic days, which
the former ſcene of them would naturally ſuggeſt, this ſpot was
truly engagingº. We took a long view of the plain formed by the
Meander, which firſt prevented the immediate approach of the ſea,
and conjectured where the four ports might have been, particularly
that for ſhips of war oppoſite ſome ſand hills, once inſulated, and
called Ladè, with its commodious harbour. Mount Mycale with a
bold ſweep bounds the whole in front, including Priene and its mag-
nificent ruin, which when flouriſhing was a correſpondent object to
the theatre at Miletus, both equally conſpicuous, and rivals in gran-
deur on the oppoſite ſhores of this branch of the Ægean ſea.
At what particular period, if it were not totally ruined and depo-
• The charming ſonnet of Filicaja on the ruins of Syracuſe and Catania forcibly re-
curred to my inemory.
Qui pur foſte o Citta; nè in voi qui reſta
“ Teſtimon di voi ſteffc un ſaffo folo," &c.
“ Io ful arena ſolitaria e ineſta,
“ Voi ſovente in voi cerco, e trovo ſolo
“ Un ſilenzio, un orror, che d'alto duolo
“ M° empie, e gli occhi mi bagna, e'l pic mº arrelta," &c
245
pulated by the Goths or Saracens, Miletus ſunk into fo univerſal a
decay, is not known; in the early parts of the Roman empire P it
flouriſhed on account of its manufactures, and perhaps preſerved its
conſequence longer than the neighbouring cities.
Our progreſs gave us an opportunity of forming a more accurate
idea of the original extent, which muſt have covered an area of at
leaſt five miles in circumference. Heaps of rubbiſh, or ſmall knowls,
aſcertain the boundaries; the walls are completely levelled" etiam
periêre ruinæ.” We obſerved the ſtatue of the couchant lion, men-
tioned by Dr. Chandler, which evinces very rude and ancient ſculp-
ture; it is fix feet at the plinth, and three feet and a half high. In
the pomærium are many large ſarcophagi ſtill remaining, which is
the more remarkable, as they are uſually deſtined by the Turks to
compoſe fountains. One of theſe, with a ſmall ſpring near this
ſpot, we fancied might have been Byblis, although it be no longer
as Ovid deſcribes it,
Nigrâque fub ilice manat.”
Met. l. ix.
To our right was a tumulus, which, whether artificial and fery-
ing military purpoſes, or as a monument of the ſlain, is a ſingular
curioſity, from its bulk.
A flock of cranes, conſiſting of ſeveral hundreds, were flying over
P Seſtini (Coll. Ainſleian, v. iv. p. 115) has imperial coins of Domitian and Geta,
reverſe “ MIAHEIN.”
9 Pauſanias, 1. vii. c. 5.
Count Choiſeul has engraven a view of a fountain head, which he enthuſiaſtically
determines to be the original Byblis. “ Nous paſſames la nuit ſur les bords d'une belle
fountaine que nous ne tardâmes pas a reconnaitre pour la fontaine de Byblis.” p. 177.
246
our heads, and winging their way in the form of a wedge. As they
were not cloſely collected, the ſpace in the air which they occupied
was very conſiderable, and the clangor, with which their march to
winter quarters at this ſeaſon of annual migration was accompanied,
we diſtinctly heard from the extreme height they had gained.
The country becomes very heathy, abounding in arbutus trees,
which bear a fruit reſembling a ſcarlet ſtrawberry both in ſize and
flavour.
Fine openings to the ſea were frequent, till we deſcried the tem-
ple of Apollo, crowning a hill about two miles diſtant. We came
to Giaur Ura, or Jeronda', founded within a few years, con-
ſiſting entirely of Greeks; it is remarkable that ſuch villages are
more flouriſhing than thoſe inhabited by Turks, in every ſtage of
our journey.
This venerable pile is all that remains of the temple of Apollo
Dydimæus at Branchydæ, the original name, and, with the oracle, is
ſaid by Pauſaniass to be more ancient than the colonization of the
Iones'It is deſcribed by Strabo as diſtant eighteen ſtadia from
Miletus, which is an error, and eighty would be nearer the truth.
The Branchidæ were deſcended from Apollo, according to heathen
mythology, and diſtinguiſhed by him, as enjoying oracular commu.
nications: theſe were the cauſe of great wealth, and a very ſpacious
temple, which being burnt by Xerxes in his flight, the immenſe
treaſures were betrayed by the prieſts, whoſe perfidy was ſeverely pu-
niſhed by Alexander, in their ſucceſſors.
1
Chiſhull's Antiq. Afiat. p. 90, fol. 1728. Chandler's Ionian Antiq. c. iii. with
views and elevations, fol. 1769.
: L. vii. c. 2.
· Cellarius, v. ii. p. 53, 54.
1
247
After the defeat of the Perſians, and the reſtoration of peace to
Aſia, the Mileſians built at Branchidæ a temple, which exceeded any
in Greece for extent and magnificence; and from time to time ſuch
additions were making, that it was at length left in an unfiniſhed
ſtate. The town was at leaſt four or five ſtadia in circumference,
in a luxuriant grove, both within the walls and without . The
trees, having been originally planted, and without renewal, have
totally diſappeared; for ſhrubs only ſeem to be indiginous in this
foil. The whole of this once venerated ſpot is now bare and ex-
poſed, and no longer
U
1
“ Horrendum filvis, et religione parentum
“ Templum auguſtum, ingens, centum ſublime columnis.”
VIRG.
The oracle retained its credit and infallibility for many ſucceſſive
ages, and was one of thoſe which Lactantius relates as having fore-
told the coming of Chriſt*.
The heap is as large as that at Priene, and the entablature, in all
its parts, not inferior; gryphons are ſculptured in baſſo relievo, with
lyres placed between them, of a different ſhape from thoſe ſeen com-
monly in the antique. It is remarkable with what regularity the
* Strabo, 1. xiv. p. 634. The laſt built temple was too large to admit a roof,
MEYICTOV VEWY TWY WAYTWY," occupying the ſite of the whole village.
Julius Cæfar Bulengerius (Gronovii Thefaur. v. vii. p. 36), De oraculis et vatibus,
has a chapter De Mileti Oraculo.
“ Et intonſi claudet penetralia Branchi."
Statius, l. viii. v. 198.
* Laftantius, I. iv. Chandler's Ionian Antiq. with views and elevations, fol. 1769,
c. iii. Chiſhull's Antiq. Afiatice, fol. 1728, p. 90. Donaria Apollinis Didymci.
។
248
columns are fallen, ſo as to be clearly diſtinguiſhed. The two per-
fect ones, in front, are about forty feet in the ſhaft, beſide the archi-
trave and capitalsy. A third ſtands alone at the other end, unfiniſhed
and unſymmetrical. It is evident that the cell or nave was incloſed
by a colonnade of equal dimenſions.
Vitruvius ? attributes the architecture of this ſuperb ſtructure to
Pæonius of Epheſus and Daphnis of Miletus, at leaſt if this temple
be underſtood as that which was dedicated to Apollo by the Mile-
ſians. From its extraordinary extent, it may be ſuppoſed to have
been conſtructed without a roof. In front there were ten columns,
and the ſurrounding row was double; within was an open corridore
formed by two orders, one above the other. Mr. Wood conjectures,
from the view of the ruins, that ſo complete an overthrow was ef-
fected by an carthquake.
From an eminence above the ſea, ſuch as were oftentimes confe-
crated to Neptune, with a votive altar at leaſt, are the walls of a
round tower, and many ſarcophagi, ſome of which appear to have
been never opened.
We here gained a preferable view of the temple and village, and
turning round, of the Icarian ſea, with the iſlands of Patmos, Leros,
Calimnos, Archuſa, and Lipſo, the varied outlines of which added
much to the proſpect. It was a feſtival, and the villagers were
dancing by moonlight, in a manner ſaid to have been practiſed by
the ancients. They were men only, and all ſinging with the lyriſt,
y Theſe columns have no plinths, which were originally omitted by the early archi-
tects in the Ionic and Corinthian, as well as the Doric orders. The Romans made the
addition, which was introduced into Greece in the temples dedicated to the emperors.
z B. vii.
។
។
.
.
ALTA
*
.
TEMPLE of APOLLO
Dydimaus.
heblishedMay 1997, by IDallaway
249
who walked abreaſt with their leader. The ſong was droniſh, with
long-holding notes without melody; and the ſtory of Orpheus leading
the brutes ſeemed to be no longer a fable. The modern lyre is ſhaped
like a tenor violin, with a ſhorter finger-board, three ſtrings, and
very rude workmanſhip; or it may reſemble the old Engliſh rebeck,
which Milton calls “ jocund.”
jocund.” When played on they hold it at
arms' length. The hilarity of theſe merry Greeks, which was con-
tinued for the greater part of the night, interrupted our repoſe in
no ſmall degree, as we reclined beneath the thatch of a neighbouring
cottage. We had now reached the extent of the journey.
It was our intention to have taken a boat for Samos at the near-
eſt harbour, but thoſe we found there were too ſmall, and we had
cauſe to rejoice that we had declined embarking. We were ſoon
a
pany riches.'
“ So cheereful are they in poverty, that they will dance whileft their legs will
bear them, and ſing 'till they grow hoarſe, ſecured from the cares and feares that accoin-
riches." Sandys's Travels, p. 14.
De Guys deſcribes the Pyrhic or military dances, “Oques & Owloweia," as ſtill ex-
jiting. " Quelquefois, dans ces danſes un joueur de lyre conduit la troupe et les danſeurs
le ſuivent en reĝlant leurs pas ſur le ſon de ſon inſtrument.” Voyage literaire, v. i. p. 181.
In the juſtneſs of the following remark, he ſeems to wave that ſpirit of eſtabliſhing
an hypotheſis upon flender analogy, and to ſpeak plain truth.
6. La ſeule comparaiſon
avec les danſes antiques peut leur donner quelque prix, ou les rendre intereſſantes pour
ceux qui les ayant vues dans le pays même, ont éte plus frappée de l'eſpece de merite
attaché a cette reſemblance a que de celui de l'execution.” Ibid.
The moſt common dance is the Romeika, with men or girls, but feldom with both.
There are likewiſe the Candiote, the Wallachian, and the Arnaoute, or Albanian.
dance parmi les Grecs faiſoit une partie de la gymnaſtique. Elle endroit dans les exer-
ciſes militaire, elle etoit elle même en pluſieurs cas ordonnee par les medicins, clle etoit
affectee a toutes les conditions. Elle venoit toujours a la ſuite des feſtins, elle animoit
toutes les fêtes, les poetes mêmes recitoicnt, et chantoient leurs vers en danſant.” Ibid.
p. 163
Criſpum ſub crotalo doctu movere latus."
l'irg. Copa. v. 2.
- La
Kk
250
overtaken by a whirlwind, that ſeemed to lift up the dust of the
whole plain, and rendered the air ſo obſcure, that we could not dif-
cern the droves of camels, whoſe bells we had heard long before, till
we came very near them. Collins deſcribes ſuch a commotion ad-
mirably in his “ Eaſtern Eclogues b
“ Eaſtern Eclogues b.” As we advanced ſlowly, under
mount Mycale, a cloud dark and denſe was floating far beneath the
fummits“, a lurid gloom and ſtillneſs were thrown over the whole
ſcene, and in a few minutes the ſtorm burſt over our heads. The
concuſſions reverberated among the rocks with a continued clang of
a metallic found, ſuch as might be produced by a large Chineſe gong.
The ſtorm at Nicæa was far exceeded, and we turned out of the
road to Thomaſia, a Greek village, drenched with rain, and aſto-
niſhed at an effect not leſs ſublime perhaps than that which may
finally occaſion “ the cruſh of worlds.” It is not indeed poſſible to
deſcribe, to any perſon who has never been from England, a ſcene
of ſuch ſtupendous accompaniments; for any compariſon with what
is experienced there of this kind muſt be infinitely inferior.
Leaving Thomaſia, we went two hours ride through groves of
aromatic pines under mount Mycale; the ſmaller defiles were deeply
furrowed by torrents, which, judging from their channels, ſhowed
b The exquiſite Metaſtaſio is not inferior in imagery.
66 Tutto s' oſcura il ciel, che il vento in giro
“ La polve inalza, e le cadute foglie.
“ Al fremer della ſelva, al volo incerto
“ Degli augelli ſmarriti, a queſte rare
6. Che ci cadon ſul volto umide ſtille,
“ Nice io preveggo.-Ah non te'l diſfi o Nice !
“ Ecco il lampo-ecco il tuono !
Tempeſta, cantat. vii.
C
Μυκαλης απεινα καρηνα.”
Homer.
251
great marks of violence. Myrtles abound on the ſhore. We dif-
mounted at a large cave, uſed as a magazine for goods waiting con-
veyance, and were detained till a more favourable opportunity of
embarking ſhould arrive, as the ſtorms were ſtill prevalent, and the
ſky lowering above the iſlands. This cavern is perforated near the
promontory of Trogyllium, once crowned with the temple of Nep-
tune Heliconius, celebrated in hiſtory for the victory obtained over
Xerxes by fea, on the ſame day d that the battle of Platæa was
fought, which eventually ſecured the liberties of the Grecian ſtates,
and expelled the Perſians from Ionia. So univerſal was their over-
throw, that forty thouſand are faid by Herodotuse to have been flain
amongſt the defiles of the mountain.
t
As the wind was adverſe, we were obliged to ſubmit, and readily
agreed with the mariners to fet fail at three in the morning. We
then aſſembled round a fire of crackling wood, which made darkneſs
more viſible, and gave light to a roof black with ſmoke, and to the
faces of as motley an aſſemblage as that which graced the cave of
Rolando, in Gil Blas. Soon after we repoſed on cotton, which was
laid in heaps around us; before day-break. we ſet ſail, and a briſk
gale wafted us to Samos in three hours.
We walked about a mile from the ſhore to Kora, not the largeſt,
but the principal village in the iſland, as it is the reſidence of the
Turkiſh agha and the Greek biſhop of Samos.
Samos, or Parthenias, was coloniſed by the Ionians more than a
thouſand years anterior to the chriſtian era. The mythologiſts dc-
4 September 23, 479 years before Chriſt.
• L. ix. c. 8.5, 90.--Voyage d'Anacharſis, v. i. p. 256, 257.
252
clare it to have been the birth-place of Juno, to whom it was pccu-
liarly ſacred
f
To the republican government ſucceeded the monarchy of Poly-
crates 5. In
440 before Chriſt they were ſubdued by the Athenians
under the command of Pericles the famous ſtateſman and general,
whom they then adopted as their protectors againſt the confederate
ſtates; and the ſtatue of Alcibiades was afterwards erected near that
of Juno, within the confines of her temple. To the natural advan-
tages of an inſular ſituation they owed ſecurity, whilſt they invited
invaſion, and were perpetually involved in war, as long as the Gre-
cian independance exiſted. Under the Romans
Under the Romansh and the lower
Greek empire it was connected with the other iſlands of the Archi-
pelago, both as to form of government, and general decay; and in
f Plin. l. v. and xxxi. Cellarius, v. ii. p. 12.
& Strabo ſtates the circumference of the iſland to be fix hundred ſtadia.
De Samo ejufque republicâ Ubbon. Emmii. Gronov. v. iv. p. 540.
Hom. Odyl. 1. ii.
Amongſt the Themnata, or provinces of Conſtantine Porphyrogenates, in the lower
Greek empire, Samos is reckoned as the ſixteenth, on account of its excellent harbour,
and was aſſociated with Epheſus.
h When the elegant or learned Romans viſited Greece, Samos had objects of cu-
rioſity well worthy their attention, as Horace informs us,
66 Romæ laudetur Samos," &c.
And, in another inſtance, he adds an epithet deſcriptive of its beauties :
Quid concinna Samos ?"
Epift. I. i. cp. 2. v. 2, 21.
Antony viſited Samos, and paſſed ſoine months there with Cleopatra, in the higheſt
luxury. Plutarch.-Auguſtus wintered there twice, and granted the city many immu-
nities. Dion. Caffius, 1. liv. p. 525.
។
!
។
COLUMN at SAMOS.
:
::
Published 2 Mavazonby I. Dallamy.
253
1472, Knowles reports it to have been “ altogether deſolate and
unpeopled.'
Pythagoras and his fingular doctrines are well known. His free
ſpirit diſdained the tyranny of Polycrates, otherwiſe the friend of
learned men, and he became a voluntary exile, and at length eſta-
bliſhed a ſchool of popular philoſophy at Crotona, in Italy. But the
Samians, unwilling to wave the honour of his birth or reſidence, de-
dicated medals to his memory k.
We firſt viſited Milès, the ſite of the temple of Juno, their tutelary
divinity. Fronting the north are the baſes and tori of eight columns,
each five feet ten inches in diameter, with an intercolumniation of
nine feet and a half. They are not placed at regular diſtances, but prove
the fide colonnade to have conſiſted of twenty columns. The tori
are compoſed of fillets and grooves, and the capitals of ova and an-
chor heads, a ſtyle of architecture probably Doric, or at leaſt anterior
to the Ionic?
Had Compte Choiſeul examined theſe remains with accuracy, he
might have ſpared his haſty criticiſm on Dr. Pococke's account of
them. A hedge-row divides them from a ſingle column of white
marble, which ſtands about ſixty yards diſtant, with the baſe ſunk
into the ground, and a capital lying near it. Its elevation is more
i Hift. of the Turks, v. i. p. 278.
k Gillies' Hif. of Greece, v. ii. p. 19. Voyage d'Anacharfis.
1 Pococke, v. ii. p. 28, with a plan of the temple, upon which M. Choiſeul obſerves,
“ Peutetre ſa ſuppoſition eſt elle fort hazardée." V. P. de la Grèce, p. 97.
Braſs medals (in Coll. Ainſleian) are inſcribed “ EAMINN," with the head of Juno,
and the reverſe, a peacock.
254
than forty feet, divided in many pieces, which have been fractured
and diſplaced by the Turks, who have fired cannon againſt it, on
preſumption of its containing hidden treaſure. The dimenſions cor-
reſpond with thoſe before mentioned. The portico was octoſtyle,
and a hundred and twenty-four feet in length fronting the caſt, on a
larger ſcale than that added by Agrippa to the pantheon at Rome.
To the temple of Peace, built by Veſpaſian, was attached a portico,
likewiſe of eight columns, but as it was areoftyle, or with an inter-
columniation of four diameters, the full extent was two hundred and
forty feet.
Herodotus m ſpeaks of it as being the moſt ſpacious and ancient
temple he knew. Of the great temples in Greece, many were ſo
extenſive as to include a library, gymnaſium, and baths, and might
have been rather denominated conſecrated villages than a ſingle
ſtructure. Strabo ſays that it had a "repoſitory of pictures, beſide
m L. xiv. p. 637.
Polydorus of Samos made the celebrated ring of Polycrates, who was a great en-
courager of the arts. Plin. Nat. Hift. 1. xxxvi. C. 4.
Apud Sainios primos, inventæ fuerunt xxiv. literæ a Calliſtrato.” Suidas.
a
* “ Tiivaxoyxy.”—The Abron, at Samos, by Apelles, was amongſt his moſt admired
pictures. There was likewiſe a ſchool of the arts formed by their own countryinen, ſoine
of whom were eminent. Saurias, according to Athenagoras, was the inventor of the ſcio-
graphia. Pythagoras, a ſculptor likewiſe, painted the Graces at Pergamus. Pauſanias,
1. i. 30.–Theophanes and Theon were inuch celebrated. A picture by the latter, of
ſoldier routing the enemy foraging a country, is mentioned with praiſe by Ælian, Var.
Hift. 1. ii. and Quintilian, l. xii. 10. Plutarch, de Antiq. Pictor. condemns his ſubject
of Oreſtes killing his mother.
Dioſcorides was a worker in moſaic, one of which is engraved in the Muſeum Her-
culan. Agatharcus, the ſon of Euridemus, is recorded for his ſuperior ſkill in painting
animals by Suidas. Plutarch mentions that he was put in chains by Alcibiades for refuſing
to finiſh a picture. Calliphontes painted two pictures much admired in the temple of
Epheſus, nymphs inveſting Patroclus with the armour of Achilles, and Hector attacking
the Grecian ſhips, noticed by Pauſanias, lib. v. and x.
1
1
255
which were galleries furniſhed with the choiceſt ſpecimens of art,
and that the open area contained many ſtatues, and amongſt others,
three of coloſſal ſize of Jupiter, Minerva, and Hercules, ſtanding on
one baſe, wrought by Myron, which were removed by Antony, who
preſented them to Cleopatra; the two latter were reſtored by Au-
guſtus. Nicetas, in his florid account of the deſtruction of the ſta-
tues at Conſtantinople, when taken by the French and Venetians in
I 204, mentions a coloſſal ſtatue of Juno, which had once adorned
her temple at Samos, the enormous head only of which was drawn
by four yoke of oxen to the palace º.
Lady M. W. Montague has traced the coloſſal Jupiter to the
gardens of Verſailles P. It was retained by Auguſtus, and placed in
the capitol at Rome
Verres, who was ſo ably impeached by Cicero, on his return
from Aſia Minor, made a predatory attack on the city and temple of
Samos, and plundered them of ſome of their moſt eſteemed works
of art, and Pompey ſuffered the pirates to complete the ſpoil'; ſo that
Antony was not the firſt Roman who, under ſimilar circumſtances,
liſtened to the demon of appropriation.
The temple of Juno was originally built in the time of the Ar-
gonauts, and deſtroyed by the Perſians. Its reſtoration of the Doric
order, in a ſtyle of ſuch tranſcendant magnificence, was deſigned and
completed by Rhæcus, a Samian, and his ſon Theodorus, almoſt
.A MS. of Nicetas in the Bodleian library at Oxford, publiſhed by Fabricius,
(Biblioth. Græc. t. vi. p. 405 to 416) deſcribes the ſtatues at Conſtantinople. It is like-
wiſe printed in the “ Imperium Orientale" of Bandurus. Paris, 1711. 2 vols. fol.
p Letter lvii.-Voyage de la Mottraye, t. i. p. 196. Pococke, v. ii. p. 26.
256
ſeven centuries before Chriſt. Pauſanias 9 conſiders it as a joint per-
formance; but Vitruvius allows him no aſſiſtant, and adds, that he
compoſed an architectural detail of this temple, exiſting in Roman
libraries in the reign of Auguſtus.
Near the temple was the ſepulchre of Leontichus and Rhadine,
at which it was cuſtomary for the Samian lovers to pledge their vows,
and to implore a happy event to their paffion".
We rode about three miles along the coaſt to the ruins of the
city of Samos, which are very widely diſperſed at the foot of one of
the interſecting chain of mountains. The vaſt mole, one of the
wonders of the iſland, and the boaſted work of Eupalinus, a hundred
and twenty feet high, and ſtretching two furlongs into the ſea, no
longer is ſeen above the waves. Heaps of ſtone and low walls
abound, but all of coarſe materials, once incruſted with others of
greater value and beauty, and probably the veſtiges of a city, built
long ſince the days of Polycrates, or at leaſt improved under Au-
guſtus and his immediate ſucceſſors. A century ago, ſome of the
towers and many blocks of fine marble remained; but vicinity to the
ſea has contributed much to its devaſtation, particularly of late years,
as the more valuable parts were ſo eaſily conveyed away for the erec-
tion of moſques or public buildings.
The fame cauſe that has ſtripped the Propontic cities, thoſe of
the upper iſlands in the Ægean, and near its coaſts, from the con-
venience of removing blocks of marble to Conſtantinople, prevailed,
in a certain degree, in the days of the firſt Roman emperors, when
the love of the arts of Greece excited them to pillage their ſubjects
of the choiceſt remains, which the veneration of ages could not ſe-
& L. iii.
r
Pauſanias, l. vii. c. 5.
257
1
cure to their original ſtations. Thoſe cities only which enjoyed
peculiar protection, for political reaſons, were exempted from ſuch
robbery.
Aſcending the mountain, about half way up is the chapel of the
Panageia, a mean building, in which are ſome inſcribed marbles s.
It ſtands at the mouth of a deep cave; at the extremity, many
yards diſtant, are an ayaſma and oratory, a place of the moſt ancient
ſuperſtition.
The iſland contained, according to a computation of a century
paſt, fourteen thouſand inhabitants, all Greeks, excepting the fou-
balhì, or governor, and two officers who collect the capitation tax.
The Porte, ſoon after the acquiſition of the Greek iſlands, appro-
priated their revenues to moſques, public officers, or as a penſion to
princeſſes of the blood-royal. Thoſe not ſo diſpoſed of devolve in
courſe to the capudàn pafhà, as governor in chief of the Archipelago.
The lands in Samos are held by the tenure called vacùf, under the
great moſque at Top-hànah, oppoſite Conſtantinople. There were
a hundred feculars, and four hundred caloyeri, or monks, who exer-
ciſe extraordinary ſeverities, and follow the rule of St. Baſil, the
founder of monachiſm in the Greek church. They have very greatly
declined lately, not leſs in diſcipline than number.
Tournefort's praiſe of the partridges, and obſervation on the fin-
gular deficiency of beauty in the women, not merely as compared
with thoſe of the other iſlands, we found equally juſt. The ſoil is
fertile, but poorly cultivated ; nitre, ochre, emery, and iron,
are
$ Theſe inſcriptions are ſepulchral, and record females of the naine of Gerylla, the
wife and mother of Apollonius, who are ſtyled “ HPOINAI,” a title frequently given
upon ſlight pretenſions.
L 1
258
amongſt the neglected riches of the earth. It was once to the
Greeks, what Etruria has ſince been to the Romans, the manufactory
of pottery ſo exquiſite in deſign and fineneſs'.
Mounting on mules, which were intractable enough to remind
us of the opponents of Pythagoras, condemned by his fyſtem to ani-
mate ſuch brutes, we croſſed the heights, which ſtretching diagon-
ally, divided us from Vathì. The aſcent is intricate, above prcci-
pices, or very deep defiles, and rocky chaſms. But we were not
fortunate enough to ſee them as wild caſcades, for the ſprings are
only temporary
•
Eupalinus, who conſtructed the mole, made a ſubterraneous
aqueduct to convey water to the city, eight feet in diameter, and
ſeven furlongs in length, which was conſidered as a wonderful per-
formance. The tunnel in Languedoc, and ſeveral in England,
evince the great ſuperiority of modern engineers. Tournefort ſpeaks
of certain veſtiges of this work, but we could learn nothing ſatiſ-
factory concerning it.
· Tlie Samians were the inventors of pottery, and produced ſome artiſts of the greateſt
merit. Scelmis, as he is called by Callimachus, or Smilis, a contemporary with Dædalus,
and who made the ſtatue of Juno, was inferior, only becauſe lefs known, as a carver of
wood. “ Nullâ regum faniliaritate, nullo errore, nullis calamitatibus infignis.” Pompon.
Gauricus de Sculptura, l. xviii.
Tibullus ſpeaks of Samian pottery at Rome in the reign of Auguſtus.
" At tibi læta trahant Samiæ convivia teſta
Fictaque Cumanâ lubrica terra rota."
Eleg. 1. ii. el. 3. v. 47, 48.
This elegant manufacture appears to have been firſt brought from Samos to Sicily
and Magna Græcia, before it was eſtabliſhed in Etruria.
Herodotus, l. iij.
259
Paffing Mytelenous, an apparently populous village, the face of
the country is charmingly diverſified with cultivated dells of rich
verdure, and the mountain fides diſpoſed in ſpacious vine incloſures,
or ſhrouded with arbutus, myrtle, and dwarf oak. The bas relief
noticed by Tournefort and Pococke as placed in the chapel, has been
ſince removed; nor were our inquiries after coins, ſaid to be ſo fre-
quently diſcovered, attended with more ſucceſs. In two hours we
reached the northern coaſt, which is ſuperior to the others in beauty,
and arrived at Vathì, the ancient Ipnuſia, and ſtill a very eligibly
ſituated town of ſome extent, with houſes cluſtered againſt the riſing
ground. On ſome of the ſhores of this iſland the inhabitants are
employed in diving for ſponges, but with leſs ſucceſs than in the
more weſtern iſlands y.
+
From this port we commenced another voyage; and from the
head of a large creek had a view of the town of Vathì, climbing up
the hill, and cloſing an almoſt rectilinear avenue, which the haven
covers. From the ſcale or quay to the mouth of the creek the diſ-
tance is nearly three miles, and the breadth one. The whole was
cheerful and ſtriking. A calm enſued when we were advanced into
the bay of Scala Nova, oppoſite to the country we had lately traverſed.
To the right we ſaw Prion, Correſus, and the Pactyan ridge towering
Ipnuſia.” Laurembergii.
y
are
“ Samos is a place under whoſe rocks grow ſponges ; the people from their infancy
bred
up with dry biſket, and other cxtenuating dyet, to make them extremely lean ;
then taking a ſponge wet with oyle, they hold it part in their mouths and part without,
ſo go they under water, where at firſt they can not ſtay long, but after practiſe ſome of the
leaneſt ſtay an hour an a half, even till all the oyle of the ſponge be corrupted, and by
the law of the ifland, none of that trade is ſuffered to marry, until he have ſtayed half an
hour under water: thus they gather ſponges from the bottom of rocks more than a hun-
dred fathom deep; which with other ſtories of the ilelands was told me by certain Greeks
in our gallcon Voyage into the Levant by S. H. Blunt, p. 53, 12mo. 1664.
0
260
above them, the town of Scala Nova, with the ruins of Epheſus and
Aiaſolùk, through a noontide air of indeſcribable clearneſs.
tant.
At five we landed, tired by the contrary wind, and intending to
ſpend the night at the village of Zillè, from which we were ſtill diſ-
It was therefore determined to put to fea again as ſoon as the
moon aroſe. In the interim we walked to the ruins of Claros, which
crown the rock above, and climbing up to the walls, ſtill traceable,
we gained the level of a beautiful promontory. A more favourable
ſituation for a city could have been ſcarcely choſen. On either ſide
a cove defended by mural rocks affords a ſafe harbour, and to the
weſt and northern points are vallies of great fertility watered by the
river Hallefus.
The city of Claros had thoſe of Colophon and Notion? ſo conti-
guous to it, that geographers are undecided as to the exact point on
which it ſtood, and a confuſion has ſometimes occurred which they
cannot correct by any remaining documents, by happy conjectures,
or even by an examination of the preſent face of the country.
"7 « Νοτιον υφορμος αιγιαλος."
Dyonis. Periég.
261
.
SECTION XVI.
CLAROS-SEJEJECTEIOS-THEATRE-TEMPLE OF BACCHUS-
VOURLA_CLAZIMENE-CHESHME-SEA-FIGHT BETWEEN THE
TURKS AND RUSSIANS IN 1770-ARRIVAL AT CHIO..
1
Claros was one of the earlieſt cities in Greece, and dedicated to
Apollo a.
The brow of the hill retains conſiderable veſtiges of grand edi-
fices; ſeveral members of the Doric ſtyle are yet diſcoverable, al-
though, from extreme antiquity, the chiſſeled parts are worn away,
and even the columns of granite are reſolving into their original
particles.
What chiefly attracted our attention was a grotto with a funk
entrance like a pit; and at a hundred yards diſtance another aperture
of ſquared ſtone, evidently communicating. It might have been,
with ſome probability in favour of the conjecture, the ſite of the
Clarian oracle. The laſt mentioned ſubterraneous paſſage opened in
the exact centre of a ſquare temple, of which the ſteps of the portico
and the baſes of the periſtyle are now ſcattered around. Still farther
a Lady M. Montague very pleafantly calls it a part of his rent-roll with Tenedos,
&c. when he made love to Daphne.
"Mihi Delphica tellus
“ Et Claros et Tenedos."
Ovid. Met. 1. i. v. 515.
Pauſanias, l. vii. c. 5.
262
on are the ſubfellia and ground-plot of the theatre, facing the ſouth-
weſt, but ſomewhat leſs than that at Miletus. Theſe veſtiges evince
the extent and magnificence of this city, before the failure of the
oracle and migration of its inhabitants to Epheſus.
Colophon was a city of greater conſequence, which it owed to
its commerce, particularly of fine gold, which was eſteemed of the
beſt quality. It was likewiſe famous for the conſtruction of every
kind of maritime veſſel, and the moſt expert failors.
In the hiſtory of the arts, many of its inhabitants are recorded;
and in the republic of letters, the names of Xenophanes and Ni-
b Ovid makes Colophon the ſcene of his fable of Minerva and Arachne.
" Pater huic Colophonius Idmon."
Met. I, vi. v. 8.
• Intus ipſa Colophon.” Plin. l. v. p. 29.
“ Colophon clarior Lebedo, copiâ navium et equitatû, ante quam lucus Apollinis
Clarii." Ubb. Emm. de Græc. Antiq.
“ Colophonis locus dicitur efle Claros, ubi naves fabricantur." Euſtath. in Dionys.
It exiſted in the days of Horace, as he inquires of his friend, wha had viſited the coast
and iſlands of the Ægean ſea, to which place he gave the preference.
“ Smyrna quid et Çolophon?"
Epift. 1. i. ep. 11. v. 3.
Suidas afferts, that Apelles, the celebrated painter, was a native of Colophon; and
Rodoginus (1. xiii. c. 38) confirms that opinion, without citing him as an authority.
Like other eminent men amongſt the Greeks, ſeveral places contend for his birth; and it
is generally agreed that he was an Epheſian citizen only. Dionyſius, of an earlier era, is
compared with Polygnotus, the Thaſian, by Ælian. He excelled in miniature.
Xenophanes held the unity and infinity of the Deity; that the carth was of infinite
ſpace, and ſurrounded neither by the heavens nor the air, but that it was diſſolved by
moiſture, adducing as proof the petrified ſubſtances of fiſh and fhells found in the marble
quarries of Paros. He contended likewiſe that there were innumerable ſuns and moons.
263
cander“, a naturaliſt and a phyſician, are deſervedly celebrated. It
was one of the Ionian cities that yielded to Gyges king of Lydia,
which circumſtance fixes its date fix hundred years before Chriſt.
When the votes of the Panionian congreſs were equal, the caſt-
ing voice was given to the Colophonian deputy Thrafyllus, the
Athenian general, added it to the colonies of that ſtate; it was after-
ward depopulated by Lyſimachus, who, according to the practice of
thoſe who founded cities, forced the inhabitants to people his new
ſettlement at Epheſus. During a ſedition, many citizens voluntarily
migrated to Smyrna, with which city they always held the ſtricteſt
alliance. After the defeat of Antiochus king of Syria, it was de-
clared a free city by the Roman ſenate.
This ſcene has equal beauty and novelty of effect, as it exhibits
to infinite advantage the Ægean, ſtudded with the iſlands of Samos
and Nicaria, of a very irregular outline, which ſeems to be incloſed
as a lake by a continent of blue mountains, bounding its waves at a
great diſtance, excepting on the weſt.
We reſumed our voyage; but the wind remaining contrary the
greater part of the next day, we put into a ſmall cove, and ſent the
Greek ſervant to Hypſilè, a Turkiſh village on the ſummit of a high
hill, about three miles on the left, in ſearch of proviſions. We aſ-
ſembled round a briſk fire, fecured as by an open chamber of marble
d Nicander, the phyſician, who lived 800 years before Chriſt, was a native of Claros,
and reſided near the oracle. He wrote two books, intitled “ Theriaca,” and “ Alexi-
pharmica:" the former was tranſlated into Latin verſe, and publiſhed at Antwerp in 1671,
the latter at Paris in 1549.
Suidas.
Xenophon. Ellen. 1. i. p. 434.
264
!
rock, and we found the ſand ſo ſoft and dry, that we repoſed there,
after a ſlight ſupper, till dawn of day. On our landing we had wan-
dered along the ſhore, and reached, at a ſmall diſtance from the
tide, a foreſt of oak and olive trees, each ſupporting a vine of lux-
uriant feſtoons, with every variety and flavour. They grow wild,
and are common property: we were now in the vicinity of Teios,
and country of Bacchus. At Lebedos, which we had paſſed, nothing
remains worthy notice f.
Setting fail with a fair wind at day-break, we arrived before
noon at Sejejek, a ſmall town at the termination of the creek, in-
circled by a low embattled wall, and a few angular towers, the pro-
bable work of the Genoeſes. Some guns are ſtill mounted, and the
gates are ſhut at even. We were lodged under the weſtern gate,
which, with the whole works, conveys but a mean idea of defenceleſs
fortifications in the Ottoman empire.
Inquiring of ſome civil Turks after curioſities, we were ſhown
ſeveral inſcriptions, ſome decretal, and one ſepulchral. The Teiorum
f“ Scis, Lebedos quid fit; Gabiis deſertior atque
“ Fidenis, vicus."
Horace, I. i. ep. II. v. 7, 8.
$ IN THE WALL OF SEJEJEK.
TIBEPIC.
ΚΛΑΥΔΙC. .
EPMEIAC.
ΞΩΤΙΚΩ. .
CTNTPOPS.
ΚΡΗCTΩ. .
MNEIAC.
ΧΑΡΙΝ. .
ΞΩΤΙΚΕ. .
XAIPE.
265
diræ, or curſes of the Teians, are all collected by Chiſhull", and ex-
plained by a differtation. We then walked, leſs than two miles, to
Bodrun, as they call Teios. The city wall had a circuit of four
miles, and heaps of ruins are diſperſed on cafy eminences; but the
ſituation was rather low, declining toward the ſea.
Teios, according to Strabo, was founded by the Carians under
Athamas; but being threatened with invaſion by Harpagus, a general
commanding a part of the army of Cyrus, the citizens fled to Ab-
dera, on the Thracian coaſt. From that period its proſperity gra-
dually declined.
But the birth of Anacreon is its greateſt fame. His rank in life
was reſpectable, and his genius entitled him to be the companion of
contemporary princes, particularly of Polycrates of Samos. Beſide
his odes, ſo well known and admired, he is ſaid to have written cle-
gies, of which we have no fragments i.
The firſt object of our reſearch was the theatre, conſtructed
againſt a declivity, the upper arched paſſage of which is nearly per-
fect; but all traces of the ſubſellia are gone. It is obſervable, that
in every inſtance we faw, the architects had choſen ſloping banks,
which faced the ſouth, for the aſpect of their theatres. As far as we
could diſcover from the rubbiſh, it was not of conſiderable dimen-
fions. Pococke, from vicinity to a rivulet, very judiciouſly conjec-
tures that it had been an occaſional naumachia. From hence we
had a view of the temple of Bacchus, the boaſted work of the archi-
* Antiquitates Afiaticæ, p. 96.
i Quintilian, l. x. c. I.
Greece, v. i. p. 271.
Voyage d' Anacharſis, t. vi. p. 22.
Gillies's Hift. of
M m
266
tect Hermogenes“, a vaſt heap, overgrown with olive and vine trees,
in a flat incloſure, thickly planted. Amidſt the pile, ſections of
Ionic pillars fluted, and a capital, with the volutes and ivy leaf of
ſuperior delicacy, caught our attention; there are, indeed, many
proofs of its extent and magnificence, but its dilapidation was of fo
remote an era, that they are moſtly broken and decayed. The
ploughed fields are covered with pieces of marble, jaſper, fine pottery,
and brick. Returning to dinner, we were ſurpriſed to find that no
wine could be procured in a place once ſacred to Bacchus, in the
country of Anacreon, and where grapes were hanging in the greateſt
profuſion, the natural produce of the ſoil. The prohibition impoſed
by Mohammed explains this circumſtance, and the grapes are other-
wiſe prepared. They are dried as raiſins, eaten freſh, or the expreſſed
juice boiled to a thick ſyrup, which they call “ petmez,” and which,
with milk, forms a chief diet of the women and children. From
the dregs of the grapes an ardent ſpirit is diſtilled, which is a general
beverage of the Greeks, and to which the Turks oppoſe no objection
in the Koràn, but drink it with a reſerve of conſcience.
From Sejejèk we advanced to Vourla. About a mile from a
ſmall aſcent a very pleaſing view is formed on the left, with the em-
battled wall of the town low and cloſe to the water's edge, and the
harbour oblong!, and with wooded ſhores of a gradual elevation.
k Vitruv. I. iv. c. 3. He was a native of Alabanda, a city of Caria.
Mr. Parrs, in the Ionian Antiq. has ſhown much profeſſional ability in the reſtora-
tion he has given of this temple, which has been likewiſe copied in the V. Pittoreſq.
It was of the Ionic order, monoptera, conſiſting of eight columns only, without walls to
incloſe the cell. Of this edifice it is remarkable that the columns were without plinths,
and their capitals have angular volutes. Hermogenes invented the pſeudo diptera, or por-
tico; and his treatiſe on the elements of architecture was preſerved at Rome in the days
of Vitruvius, who gives it no common praiſe.
Chercidæ, noticed by Strabo as north of Teios.
267
The road then leads through ſmall glens, with rivulets and ſpreading
foliage, or through flat grounds, incloſed with hedge-rows of tall
myrtle in full bloom. Theſe were poetic regions, but they were
foon paſſed.
We halted at Vourla, the Chytrium of the ancients, which,
riſing againſt the hill, affords a fine catch of the ſea and Alexander's
artificial peninſula of Clazomenæ ; we did not examine it, for want
of time". Apprehenſions of danger from banditti, or Turkiſh ſta-
tionary guards ſcarcely more to be depended on, through a dreary
champaign country, haſtened our departure. It univerſally preſents a
face of hopeleſs ſterility, ſtrewn with looſe ſtones, or points of rock
ſtarting through the bare ſurface. Some hills and large pine groves
made the only variety. An hour after fun-ſet we remained in the
hovel of the only Greek in a wretched village called Pyrghè.
L
The road to Cheſhmè, over a tract of the ſame deſcription, is no leſs
deſert and tireſome. It is the ancient Cyſſus, in which port the fleet
of Antiochus was defeated by the Romans. The town covers a ſhelv-
ing ridge to the ſea, with the fortreſs in the centre, of an oblong
ſhape, conſiſting of double walls and a deep foſs, and incloſing a
moſque and ſeveral houſes. Its apparent antiquity is not higher
than when the port was in the poſſeſſion of the Genoeſe. During
that period two very ſpacious baths, now in decay, were built by
them.
Since 1770, memorable for the deſtruction of the Turkiſh fleet
m Cellarius, v. ii. p. 44.
» The baths of Lebedos, Teios, and Clazomenæ,' are celebrated by Pauſanias,
1. vii. c. 5.
• Liv. Hift. 1. xxvi. c. 44. Cellarius, v. ii. p. 45.
268
by the Ruſſians, the greater part of the town, with magazines on
the ſcale for the accommodation of the trade, which is conſiderable
with the iſland of Chio, las been rebuilt, having at that time ſuf-
fered from the conflagration. Of this circumſtance a good account
is found in the memoirs of Baron de Tott, who, on all occaſions,
ſtrives to amuſe or ſurpriſe his readers, and a minute and cor-
rected detail in the ſtrictures of Peyſſonnel, his very ſevere com-
mentator
In the afternoon we embarked for Chio from the mouth of the
harbour, which much reſembles thoſe already deſcribed, only of far
greater ſcope. The effect of the terminating objects ſeen through
ſo grand a viſta is ſpoiled by the right lines of the caſtle walls and a
range of wind-mills on the brow of the hill. This was the ſcene
of the naval action. In four hours we landed, and were received
into the Franciſcan convent of St. Antonio, a very neat houſe,
P Choiſeul (p. 93) gives a plan of the harbour, with an account of the Ruſſian victory
by Count Orlow and Admiral Elphinſton.
Memoires du Baron de Tott, v. iii. p. 35.
Lettre ſur les. Mcm. du B. de Tott, p. 75, de M. Peyſonnel, then conful at Smyrna,
hias the following account, differing from that of the former authors.
They were engaged by the Ruſſians, under command of Admiral Spiritow, when
anchored in the creek of Cheſhme. Jaffer, the capudan paſha, according to the practice
of the country, was in an oared boat, in order to direct with greater facility the movements
of his flect. Haffan Bey, his lieutenant, was on board the flag-ſhip. After prodigies of
valour on both ſides, during an engagement of ſome hours, the rudder of Spiritow's ſhip
was ſhot away by a ball of enormous weight, made of marble. The Ruſſian, foreſeeing
only imminent deſtruction, reſolved to fire his own ſhip, and attempt the burning the
whole line of the enemy, who were anchored cloſe to each other, without a power of
eſcape. He truſted himſelf and twenty-four perſons only to his boat, a few minutes before
the exploſion. Heſlân Bey ſecured his retreat to Smyrna, covered with wounds." His
conduct on this occaſion foon recommended him to the appointment of capudan paſha, ſo
diſtinguiſhed during the reign of Abdul-hamid.
1
1
269
built and eſtabliſhed about thirty years ſince by the late empreſs,
Maria Thereſa.
The evening had now cloſed; which circumſtance deprived us
of a view of the delicious coaſt which we afterward ſurveyed.
About two miles at ſea, the light conſpicuous buildings interſperſed
between the deep foliage of orange and olive groves, and the vaſt
range of mountains gradually peering to the ſky, realiſe ideas origi-
nally excited by poetic fiction.
270
SECTION XVII.
ANCIENT HISTORY OF CHIOCHIAN WINE-BIRTH-PLACE OF
HOMER-CITY OF CHIO, AND THE PRESENT STATE OF THE
ISLAND-CHARACTER OF THE GREEKS-VILLAGES-CULTIVA-
TION OF GUM MASTIC-BEAUTY AND DRESSES OF THE WOMEN
HOMER'S SCHOOL INSTANCE OF LONGEVITY-CASTLE AND
CHURCH.
.
Culo retains more of its former proſperity than any iſland in the
Ægean ſea, and merits a more minute deſcription,
The fertility and beauty, which they diſcovered, invited the
Ionian ſtates to eſtabliſh a colony more than a thouſand years before
Chriſt, which foon attained to a degree of political conſequence, as
the allies or ſubjects of the continental cities of Greece. A fleet
conſtantly prepared for action and the maritime genius of the people
gave them the command of the higher parts of the Ægean ſea.
Hiſtorians record very frequent changes in their ſubjection or alli-
ances, the reſult fometimes of neceſſity, but more frequently of
choice. Their moſt ancient friends were the Spartans, whom they
deſerted for the Athenians, but during the Peloponneſian war they
again revolted to the Lacedemonians. After a failure in the firſt at-
tack by Chares, the Athenians indulged the reſentment of conquerors,
and levelled the new walls of their city with the ground a.
a Strabı, 1. xiv. p. 632.
Gillies's Hift. Greece, v. iii. p. 250.
Pauſanias, I. vii. c. 2.
Ant. Chriſt. 358. 373.
271
The kings of Pergamus, Eumenes, and Attalus 6, appear to have
become poſſeſſed of Chios either by conqueſt or ceffion; and the
Chians, as allies of the Roman people in the battle with the Gala-
tians under Cneius Manleius Vulſo, were rewarded by a declaration
of their freedom, with the protection of their former maſters.
Upon the extinction of the Attalian kings they were attached to
the Roman territory, and when the empire was divided, they re-
mained ſubject till the reign of Manuel Comnenus. In the partition
of the caſtern empire in 1204 by the French and Venetians, Chio
was allotted to the Byzantine throne, and afterward granted to the
Genoeſe by Michael Paleologus, in remuneration of aſſiſtance againſt
the Latins.
b Livy, Decad. iv. I. 11,
The temple of Venus, the building of which is deſcribed by Diodorus Siculus, 1. v.
ſpoiled by Attalus, was reſtored by him in a ſtyle of greater magnificence. Sea fight at
Chios between Attalus and Philip. Polybius, l. xvi.
c Abbate Seftini (Coll. Ainſleian) v. iv. p. 115, notices three very rare gold coins of
Chios, with a ſphynx or harpye, reverſe a fea boar winged. Pinkerton obſerves that thoſe
of ſilver and bronze are common, v. i. p. 246.
It may be uſeful inforination to thoſe who make the tour of Greece, the iſlands, and
colonies, to know the ſymbols peculiar to each ; as the owl of Athens; the bee of Ephe-
ſus; the ſphynx of Chios; the axe and double head of Tenedos; the horſe feeding of
Alexander Troas; and running of Dardanus; the gryphon of Teios; the dove of Si-
cyon; the tortoiſe of Ægina; the buckler of Thebes ; the wolf of Argos; the lyre of
Theſpia ; the prow of a veſſel of Megara, &c. &c. “XIQN TPIA AESAPIA. Sphynx
dextro pede pofito fupra prorem navis Δηνάριον ην εξηκοντα ασσαρια inquit Julius Pollux,
Accaplov, Matt. 10, pretium duorum paſſerum.” Cat. Num. Bodl. MS. Godwin.
In Chios was cſtabliſhed one of the moſt ancient ſchools of ſculpture by Malas and his
immediate deſcendants, of whom Bupalus was the moſt celebrated. They made a ſtatue
of Diana for the Chians, and one of Apollo in the Palatine temple at Rome, and were em-
ployed in other ſumptuous works by Auguſtus. Plinii Hift. Nat. 1. xxxvi. cap. 5. Pau-
ſanias (1. iv.) calls Bupalus an architect.
272
In the reign of Morad III. 1575, it was treacherouſly taken by
Piali Paſha, after having been held by the Genoeſe nearly two cen-
turies and a half d.
After a calamitous liege, in 1694, the city and iſland were re-
gained by the Venetians, who were betrayed by the Greeks during
their inveterate quarrel with thoſe of the Latin church. Their pof-
ſeſſion was of ſhort duration ; for in 1696, Mezzomorto, the African
renegade, a celebrated admiral, inveſted the iſland with ſucceſs, and
it was again added to the Ottoman empire. The Greeks, who fa-
crificed every conſideration to the perſecution of the Latins, were
rewarded for their perfidy by an ecclefiaftical triumph; and their
opponents were conſtrained by heavy penalties to conform to the
Greek ritual. At this time, the Catholics do not exceed one thou-
ſand in number, yet theſe ſchiſms are ſtill maintained with indecent
violence, and continue to interrupt domeſtic peace, and to diſgrace a
religion which profeſſes meekneſs and forbearance. By the ancient
geographers Chios was conſidered as having a circuit of goo ſtadia,
and by modern, computed to be from 100 to 130 miles, as the ex-
trenie irregularity of the coaſt would render an actual admeaſurement
difficult. Mountains of volcanic ſhape and ſurface interfect
the iſland, diſtinguiſhed by the ancients as the Phanæan and Pelle-
næan; the latter is in the diſtrict of Arviſiaº, famed for the produce of
very difficult.
& Belon (in 1550) deſcribes Chio as tributary to the Turks, to whom they paid twelve
thouſand ducats annual tax, of which four or five thouſand were taken in maſtic as a de-
duction. L. 2. ch. viii.
• Strabo, 1. xiv. p. 645.
The temple of Minerva Dracontoletira, from her having flain a dragon on the Pelle-
næan hills.
“ Kai Xbos masbats TenamyQ18 UTO TTZav." Dionys. Perieges. v. 535.
66 $avera arpa." 'Id.
273
wine, ſo much eſteemed at Rome in its moſt luxurious days for its
coſt and exquiſite flavour.
" Quo Chium pretio cadum
" Mercemur?"
Hor. 1. iii. Od. xix. v. 5, 6.
.
Pliny' relates, that Greek wine was prohibited in Rome, A. U.C.
675 by a ſumptuary law; and Varro ſays, that Lucius Lucullus,
when
young,
did not remember it to have been ſerved more than
once at the moſt coſtly feaſts. Upon his return from Aſia he brought
with him a thouſand gallons. C. Cenſius the pretor had Chian wine
firſt given to him by a phyſician as a cordial. Cæfar in one of his
triumphal ſuppers diſtributed about 100 gallons, which was conſider-
ed as an inſtance of extreme profuſeneſs; nor was it till the ſeventh
()
Odyſ. 1. iii.
« Οινον φερεσα αριστον των ελληνικων.
Strabo.
Arviſia was about 300 ftadia in circumference, on the north weſtern coaſt. In a fe-
cond voyage to Chio (Nov. 1795) I obſerved this diſtrict, and the Pellenæan mountains,
from the ſea under the ſtrong light of the ſetting fun. There is one point, nearly twice
as high as the others, which is certainly an exhauſted volcano.
f Nat. Hift. 1. xiv. c. 14.
“ Cados congiatos,” a meaſure probably peculiar to the Chians.
“ Chio ſolvite vincla cado." Tibull. Eleg. 1. 2. I.
Horace deſcribing Nafidienus's ſupper, ſpeaks of “ Chium maris expers ;" alluding
to their cuſtom of mixing it with ſea water.
Hermippi verſus ab Athenco citati, latine redditi.
“ Felicis Chii poſt jucundiffima vina
Et vinum proprio Saprium quod nomine dicunt;
A quo reclufis vafis ct tegmine capto
Surgit odor violam redolens, ſuaveſque hyacinthos,
Tota volat divinus odor per tecta recluſis.
Tale meis opto convivis adſit amicis."
Virg. Eccl. v.
Nn
274
century after the building of the city that it became common in the
houſes of the moſt affluent. On account of its faccharine and aro-
matic taſte, it was uſual to dilute it with water, or to mix it with
wine of a drier flavour.
We taſted fome, which did not diſparage its ancient fame.
It has a flavour ſimilar to that of “ Monte Fiaſcone,” and is called
by way of excellence the wine of Homer.
The Chians urge a greater number of circumſtances than their
competitors in ſupport of their claim to that divine bard 6. A fami-
The Chians firft made the 'vinum nigrum.
Τα τον εγω κρινω πολυ παντων ειναι αριστον
Των αλλων οίνων μετ αμυμονα χιον αλυωτον.
.
Hermippus.
Suavior, ut Chio nota fi commiſta Falerni eſt. Horat. Sat. 1. i. f. 10.
& On a medal of Chios,
Ο ΠΑΝΤΑ ΕΙΠΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΠΑΝΤΑ ΝΟΗΣΑΣ ΧΙΟΣ ΟΜΗΡΟΣ.
Wood in his Eſſay on the Genius of Homer (p. 33) inclines much to the opinion in fa-
vour of Chios, though nothing is deciſive in the Iliad or 'Odyſſey.
« Τυφλος ανηρ οικει δε χιω ενα παιπαλοησση."
According to Mr. Bryant he was a native of Ithaca ana 'his own Ulyſſes.
Of the early commentators upon Homer, one of the moſt eſtimable, if for erudition
and quantity only, is Euſtathius, who likewiſe gave a geographical explanation to the
Trepinnois of Dionyſius Byzantinus, publiſhed by R. Stephens in 1647. He lived in the
twelfth century, and was at the time of his death in 1201 archbiſhop of Theſſalonica. IF
reading Homer inſtead of writing learned commentaries, were the indiſpenſable qudlifica-
tion in candidates for the patriarchal throne, it is not uncandidly preſumed, that it might
remain for ſome time vacant. What learning the Greek clergy poffefs is of another ſort.
The edicts of the councils, and the controverſial writers againſt the papal ſec, may be
known by a few, but the intrigues of the Porte are a more profitable ſtudy.
Allatius, himſelf a Chian, concludes 'his'treatife, and exprelſes the conviction of his
own mind in theſe terms, “ quare Homerus crit Chius fi qua fides in hiſtoria eſt, "
after having written fixteen long chapters in ſupport of his opinion.
vo
275
ly of his deſcendants were called Homeridæ ; and, as if the art of
poeſy were hereditary, they produced Parthenius of no trivial namo
amongſt poets. Leo Allatius cites many authors. to prove Homer a
native of this iſland, and upon more accumulated evidence decides
on that circumſtance as a fact. But his own confeſſion may be
poore ſatisfactory in his hymn to Apollo ; for his inhabiting
Chios may convey a certain degree of proof that he was born there.
Cynethius, a Chian who firſt recited the poems of Homer at Syra-
cuſe in the 69th olympiad, is reported to have himſelf compoſed
the hymn to Apollo upon the teſtimony of Hippoftratus, an aſſertion
diſcredited by the ableft critics.
4
*
Venus was the divinity to whom the higheſt honours were paid
in Chios; her temple was uncommonly ſplendid, and the females
devoted to her ſervice nat leſs beautiful than numerous". The edu-
cation of the fex was equally hardy with that of the young men, and
in the public gymnaſtic exerciſes they contended with each other un-
incumbered by dreſsi. Notwithſtanding this exhibition of rigid
difcipline, the natives were addicted to the moſt effeminate luxuries;
and it is ſaid, to their eternal reproach, that they were the firſt in
h Ion, an elegiac and tragic poet of the age of Æſchylus and Sophocles, was a native of
Chios.
Celebratur cadem inſula et Homeri morte, Veneris templo et Harpiis monſtris,
unde in inſignibus ut vetus moneta oftendit, Harpii a Chii ufi fuere. Cæterum in Chio
præter cætera Veneris templum maximo pretio fuerat. Wolf. Lazius Græc. Ant.
1. ii, c. 2.
Pauſanius, l. vii. c. Si mentions with praiſe the tomb of Oenopion in Chios.
1
1
i Athenæi Naucratica Deipnoſoph. 1. xiii. p. 237. Ev XIW de Tn yow xai Cadizelvydoray
εστιν και δε τες δρομες επι τα γυμνάσια και οράν προσπαλαιοντας τες νεες ταις κοραις. .
276
Greece who uſed flavesk. The Epicurean philoſophy was very ſuc-
ceſsfully recommended and practiſed by Metrodorus, whoſe defini-
tion of happineſs is ſuccinct and plauſible ; " a found conſtitution,
and a ſecurity of its continuance ?."
Whatever might have been the remains of ancient architecture,
no traces are now to be diſcovered ; all have yielded to time, or
more probably to the more effectual deſtruction of miſguided zeal or
appropriation.
The city of Chios appears to have been at the moſt diftant pe-
riod of conſiderable extent and beauty. Modern Chio or Scio, as
the Franks call it, is now the handſomeſt town in the Archipelago,
and from its Italian maſters has derived much of the European
accommodation m. The ſtreets are too narrow, as the houſes are
not of thoſe fragile materials fo univerſal in Turkey, but of white
hewn ſtone. The port" is ſpacious, but not deep, protected by a
1
k Critias memorat molliffimam fedem Milefiam, et Chium cubile. Mufonius de
Grac. luxu.
Chios primos ſervis uſos fuiffe ferunt.” Euftathius in Dionyf. Perieges.
Bupalus of Chios was an artiſt of the firſt merit; and it is ſaid by an anonymous au-
thor publiſhed by Bandurus, that the four bronze horſes, formerly in the hippodrome at
Conſtantinople, were brought from hence by Theodoſius the younger, but this account is
urauthentic.
Cicero
I“ Cum Corpus bene conſtitutum fit; et ſit exploratum ita futuruin.
Offic. l. 2.
m
“ Ædificiis publicis et privatis olim ſplendida, populo frequens, ambitu fpatiofa.
Indiginæ urbis et inſulæ Græci erant, ac multi eorum genere nobiles, cives habitu et
moribus culti, Græcorum veterum elegantiam præ ſe ferentes; fæminarum veſtitus ſpecio-
fus et magnificus.” Such is the deſcription of Ubbonius Emmius, a profeſſor at Gro-
ningen in the beginning of the laſt century.
» It was a ſtation for eighty ſhips. Strabo, l. xiv. p. 645.
277
low mole and two light-houſes, and commerce flouriſhes for the pro-
duce and ſupply of the iſland.
We took mules to ſurvey a region, which both for climate and
cultivation can ſcarcely be equalled.
#
« Talis beatis incubat infulis
Felicis auræ perpetuus tepor,
Et neſciis campis ſenectæ
Difficilis, querulique morbi."
BUCHANAN Od. in Kalend. Mają.
Of thoſe parts of the iſland, in which cultivation is practicable,
almoſt the whole may be ſaid to be a garden. The deficiency of
water is ſupplied by a large wheel, to which buckets are attached
communicating with a ciſtern, and worked by an aſs or mule. By
narrow channels the water is regularly diffuſed, and the health and
vegetation of the plants ſupported to the utmoſt luxuriance by this
ruſtic ſyſtem of hydraulics.
Under the preſent government, harſh as it is ſaid to be, it
may
be called the paradiſe of the Greeks, who are the principal inhabi-
tants both in number and affluence. It it here that their national
character is expanded without reſtraint, and that they are allowed to
enjoy their wealth with a greater degree of ſecurity. Could they be
content with private life, their happineſs might be unmoleſted;
but their ſpirit for intrigue and aggrandiſement perpetually tempts
them to ſeek connexions with the Porte, or its enemies; and their
diſgrace is inexorably purſued with confifcation of property and loſs
of life. Chio is often ſelected as the place of exile for the great
officers of ſtate when ſuperſeded, and in ſecret correſpondence with
the Greeks is the ſcene of plots, which ſhake the ruling cabinet to
278
its centre. It is computed, with reaſon, that their population exceeds
150,000', whilſt that of the Turks does not complete a fortieth part;
but ſuch is their want of vigour and unanimity, and their habitual
terror of the Turkilli name.,
This numerous population is maintained by manufactories of filk
and cotton ſtuffs. They make rich brocades and pieces of a flighter
texture for faſhes and turbans, fuch as are worn by the Greeks.
This iſland and Tino are thoſe only in which any manufacture is car-
ried on as retained from the Genoefe, their former maſters. Many
of the preſent inhabitants are proud to own their deſcent from the
Caſa Giuſtiniani, or Grimaldi, anciently noble; and there are feve-
ral Greek families of ſimilar pretenſions, who were exiled at the tak-
ing of Conſtantinople. Some Engliſh merchants were ſettled at
Scio foon after the eſtabliſhment of our commerce in the Levant,
in conſequence of its connexion with the port of Smyrna.
"
A fpace
As we left the town, the whole valley to the ſea is ſo thickly
peopled and cultivated as to be a continuation of its ſtreets.
of fix or ſeven miles is completely occupied by country houſes, gar-
dens, and orangeries, of many acres. The latter are ſurrounded by.
walls higher than the trees, cach of which is funk below the level
into a pit, and the road is flanked by them as lanes. The odour
• In 1782, nearly one third of the inhabitants were ſwept away by the plague.
“ Nos Miſſionnaires Jeſuites faiſoient remarquer aux Grecs, Latins de Chio, que la
peſte les epargnoit, et ne faiſoit des ravages que parmi les Turcs & les Grecs ſchifina-
tiques !!!" A curious inſtance of miſrepreſentation and bigotry! De Guys Voy. lit. t. iii.
p 81. The plaguc was introduced by a cheſt of clothes ſent by the Papas, who have the
care of the Greek hoſpital at Conſtantinople. The clothes had not been fumigated, and
when this box of Pandora was opened, contagion ſpread on all ſides with incredible ra.
pidity.
279
during the ſeaſon of bloom is ſo ſtrong as to be perceptible ſeveral
miles from the coaſt. The houſes are all of ſtone, large and lofty,
with the beſt rooms at top, opening to terraces. Some of them,
evidently contemporary with the Genoeſe, look like caſtellated towers
of a capricious form.
We viſited the Engliſh conſul at his country houſe amongſt the
mountains. It was about mid-day, and we were ſerved with the
cuſtomary compliment. The lady of the houſe had been one of the
moſt beautiful of the Sciotes, nor had her daughter inferior preten-
ſions. More native politeneſs and gay complacency could ſcarcely
have been ſhown than in their reception of us. According to the
univerſal cuſtom amongſt the Greeks, ſoon after our arrival, a ſer-
vant appeared, bearing a ſilver ſalver, upon which were placed feve-
ral ſpoons filled with conſerves, which the young lady preſented to
us ſeverally, with a grace and attitude worthy the antique. Small
glaſſes of water ſucceeded, and laſtly, coffee prepared in the eaſtern
manner. In every viſit that may be made during the day, this
compliment is repeated. Should the miſtreſs of the houſe be
young,
The ſhows her reſpect to her gueſts by this ceremony, if otherwiſe,
her eldeſt daughter or ſome other lady preſent takes her place.
Theſe continued villages are called Vaveilè, Kamvho, and Talaro.
We then followed an abrupt path up the mountains, on the folitary
ſummits of which are hermitages of ancient eſtabliſhment.
• .
Near them we paſſed the great convent of Caloyeri, of the order
of St. Baſil, founded by the Emperor Conſtantine Monomachus.
The ſituation is beautifully ſecluded, and in the church are ſome cu-
rious marbles and moſaics. Jaſper and verd antique abound, not
only as columns, but as wainſcot, and the ſcriptural ſtories in moſaic
1
280
are in the beſt ſtyle of the times. Reliques of apoſtles and primitive
-ſaints are preſerved there, ſuch being highly venerated by the Greeks.
By the ſeverity of their order they are prohibited from the uſe of fleſh,
and no woman is permitted to approach theſe confecrated walls.
Some years ſince the whole community conſiſted of two hundred, of
whom twenty-five were prieſts and fifty had the title of " ſtavroferi,"
or croſs bearers, in proof of greater mortification. But it is now
certain, that the monaſtic ſyſtem in the Greek church is rapidly
declining. Of the ſixty-ſix villages in the iſland, thirty-two belong
to monaſteries, but the revenues are chiefly pre-occupied by the
biſhop or the patriarch of Conſtantinople.
Not ſo diſtant, we reſted at the village of Tholopotàmo, to en-
joy the proſpect infinitely rich to the ſea, with the gulph of Cheſhme,
and the Ionian coaſt clear and magnificent to the ſkirting line of
the horizon.
In the diſtrict of this village the largeſt quantity of gum maſtic is
produced, from which the Turks give the denomination of Sakis to
the whole iſland. The ſultan reſerves the intire property to himſelf
for the conſumption of the feraglio, and the remainder is ſold P.
The Levantine ladies are partial to its uſe; it is not ſoluble in the
mouth, and beſide affording them conſiderable amuſement, is ſuppoſed
» Dioſcorides. Sandys's Travels, p. II. Chandler's Travels in Aſia Minor.
Memoir de Monſieur Galand, 1747, on the growth of maſtic.
Pococke (Obf. on the Greek iſlands) p. 3, ſtates the annual tribute of maſtic to the ful-
tan, to amount to 5020 okes of 400 drachms each. This tax, as well as the capitation,
is collected by the Capudàn Paſha in his annual viſit of the Archipelago. He always an-
chors at Scio for many days, during which he expends to the amount of what he has re-
ceived, to ſhow his magnificence; and puts to death ſeveral intriguing or unfortunate
Greeks, in proof of his power.
281
to
poſſeſs wonderful antiſeptic and purifying qualities. It was
originally a practice of the Perſian women, communicated to the
Turks. But the greater quantity is mixed with the raki or raw fpi-
rit, and with the new wine, to which it imparts a high aromatic
flavour. The rayàhs or Greek ſubjects, who inhabit twenty villages,
in which it is cultivated with great care, pay no rent, and are exempt-
ed from half the general capitation ; beſide, what they value moſt,
they enjoy certain privileges of dreſs. The ſhrub is a low evergreen
with a round buſhy head; but the produce of the cultivated is far
ſuperior to that of the indigenous tree.
+
They cut the bark of the ſtem croſsways, firſt in May, then in
June, and again in Auguſt, collecting the gum as it diſtills. The
whole produce of the iſland is eighty tons. The roots require the
fame cultivation as the vine. It is curious to ſee the ſharp ſpikes of
the feed pod ſtill expoſed for ſale as toothpicks, in the markets of
Conſtantinople, as they were in Rome, in the age of Martial. Silk
worms are bred in large quantities, and the honey from the rocks on
the ſouth ſide of the iſland may vie with that of Hybla or Hymettus.
In the ſame manner, and almoſt to the ſame extent, the terebinthus or
turpentine tree 9 is cultivated, as the maſtic already deſcribed. In
4 Jam vero femper viridis, femperque gravata,
Lentiſcus triplici folita eſt grandeſcere foetu,
Ter fruges fundens, tria tempora monſtrat arandi.
Lentiſcum melius, fed fi tibi frondea cuſpis
Defuerit, dentes penna levare poteſt.
L. xiv. epig. 22.
The « terra Chia” is a faponaceous carth, much in requeſt with Turkiſh women,
as a dipilatory. It is uſed in the baths, mixed with roſe leaves. Vitruvius calls the green
00
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282
recounting theſe bounties of nature, the ſingular beauty of the female
inhabitants muſt not be omitted . As we walked through the
town, on a Sunday evening, the ſtreets were filled with women
dancing, or ſitting in groupes at their doors, dreſſed in the fa-
fhion of the iſland, which is ſcrupulouſly confined to the na-
tives. The girls have moſt brilliant complexions, with features re-
gular and delicate ; but one ſtyle of countenance prevails. When
without a veil, the head is covered with a cloſe coif, confining the
hair excepting a few locks round the face, which are bathed in
per-
fumed oil, and curled likewiſe, as in Vandyke's or Lely's portraits.
Some have veils of muſlin tyed a l'antique, and flowing gracefully
behind. The ſhift ſleeves are expoſed, of thin gauze full and open,
earth, of which there was a mine in Chio, “ Theodotion.” The root celery is indige-
nous here, and was firſt introduced into Europe by a Chian gardener, who planted it in
the garden of the villa Albani, at Rome.
s P. de la Valle recounts their gaiety, with great delight, “non ſi fà mai altro che
cantare, ballare e ſtare in converſatione con le donne, e non ſolo il giorno ma la notte an-
cora.” Viaggio, p. 32.
Sandys ſays quaintly, "The women celebrated of old for their beauty, yet carry that
fame; I will not ſay undeſervedly." P.11.-La Mottraye has inore of the gallantry of
his nation, “ Les femmes de Scio tiennent le premier rang pour la beauté auſſi bien que
pour la gayetè, et ſelon quelques uns pour la complaiſance, entre toutes celles d'Archi-
pel.” T. i. p. 195.-Sandys, when he ſaw them, was a young man, though now an old
traveller ; Dr. Chandler was not ſo inſenſible. Travels in Aſia Minor, ch. xvi.
As a more ancient teſtimony, Belon gives a ſketch in the curious language of the
16th century, “ Il n'eſt autre ville ou les gens ſoyent plus courtois qu'ils ſont a Chio.
Auſſi eſt ce le lieu de la meillure demeure que ſcachions a noſtre gre, et ou les femmes
ſont plus courtoiſes et belles. Elles rendent un infallible teſmoignage de leur antique
beautè. L. 2. ch. viji. Count Chofieul Gouffur obſerves, “ On pourroit les ſoupçonner
d'abord de pouſſer un peu loin lcur affabilité, mais on auroit tort; nulle part les femmes
ne ſont fi libres et fi ſages.” V. Pittoreſque, p. 93.
283
and the outer veſt does not reach far below the knees, with an apron
of coloured tiffany, worn as high as the boſom. It is always of gau-
dy filk thickly plaited in narrow folds, ſtiffened with whalebone,
like a hoop, and faſtened under the chin, being quite flat upon the
breaſts. It appears, much as if one of the moſt fanciful of our Eng-
liſh ladies of faſhion ſhould wear her petticoat tyed round her neck,
and poke her arms through the ſides; or, by a more groteſque com-
pariſon, a tortoiſe walking upright. The ſlippers are looſe and ſome-
times embroidered, with ſtockings of white filk or cotton, extremely
neat. The ringlets, which are ſo elegantly diſpoſed round the ſweet
countenances of theſe fair Chiotes, are ſuch as Milton deſcribes by
hyacynthine locks,” crifped and curled like the bloſſoms of that
flower. No dreſs more unbecoming than that which envelopes
their ſhapes, could have been imagined; but their faces make ample
amends, with eyes varying with infinite expreſſion from ſoftneſs to
vivacity. All the arts of ancient Greece have declined in an extreme
porportion, nor ſhould we wonder, that if the ſuperiority of beauty
be unimpaired, the art of adorning the perſon be almoſt loft. Yet
the air of the veil, the ceinture, and the ſandals, afford us occaſionally
ſome ſlight glimpſe of that exquiſite grace which pervades the dra-
pery of ancient ſculpture.
Even, in the Turkiſh women, an air of greater freedom than of
thoſe in the capital may be obſerved. The face is not ſo cloſely cn-
veloped in a máhramah, which diſcovers the eyes only, but gracefully
obſcured by a flowing veil.
• Par. Loft, b. iv. v. 301.
“ His curling locks like hyacintlıine flowers."
Cowper's Odyſ. b. vi. v. 2006
284
We met many groupes walking on the beach, in our way to
Homer's ſchool, about a mile diſtant from the town, by ſome travel-
vellers conjectured to have been a fane of Cybele, and by others,
with more reaſon, the oracular theatre of the Erythrean Sibyl.
To that ſtrict and undeviating attention to veracity, which the
learned Pococke has univerſally ſhown in his obſervations, we can
hardly reconcile his account of this place. His Homer between two
ſuppoſitious muſes, his four lions, and the whole delineation, where
nothing deciſive exiſts, muſt have originated with his engraver. In
his written deſcriptions, after premiſing much, he urges that the
perſon ſitting in the middle “ may be ſuppoſed to be Homer," and
that the figures “ ſeem to be lions.”
To us it appeared only as a ſmall detached rock, with a circular
bench, and a cathedra in the middle, ſupported by figures of
qua-
drupeds, always of very rude ſculpture, but now weather worn and
mere blocks. The ſurrounding cliffs are very lofty, and thickly in-
cruſted with a volcanic ſubſtance; nor are other evidences wanting
to prove that the preſent appearance has been occaſioned by ſubter-
raneous fire.
1
Whilſt we loitered near the fountain, a venerable looking man
accoſted us, who ſaid that he was 120 years old, and that he had a
ſon now living who was eighty, at which age he again became a fa-
ther. From farther inquiry we learned that ſuch longevity was not
uncommon in the Greek iſlands; he acknowledged that there were
* The genuine anecdotes of old Par, at a more advanced age, are amongſt other
claims of national ſuperiority.
1
1
285
older men in Chio, but none, like himſelf, who had been preferred,
as he could boaſt to have lately been, by a girl of twenty to a rival
of her own age".
We aſked him in vain about Homer's ſchool, concerning which
he knew nothing, nor could he remember it in a different ſtate,
The common viands, meat and corn, are frequently deficient
from the want of agriculture and herbage, as well as a population
too great for the natural reſources of the iſland. Foxes and hares
are common on the mountains, but no ſpecies of foreſt beaſt.
Horſes are the luxury of the rich; mules are more frequent, but the
poor people and females are generally conveyed aſtride, on the pa-
tient aſs.
The caſtle was built by the Genoeſe with many baſtions and
lofty bracketted towers, and the more modern fortifications by the
Venetians. It defends the harbour, and occupies a ſite of ſeveral
acres covered with ſmall houſes, of which Jews are the principal in-
habitants. The governor of the iland reſides there, and has a gar-
riſon of a few janiſſaries. In the open eſplanade between the town
and the caſtle is a Turkiſh fountain, which forms with the port and
the ſurrounding houſes, a very ſtriking picture.
Of the churches, that of Agia Victoria is alone worthy notice,
not having the form of the Greck croſs, but with a nave and two
aiſles, divided by ſome rich columns of porphery and verd antique.
It was built by the Genoeſe foon after their acquiſition of the iſland.
Notwithſtanding the edict of the ſecond council of Nice againſt the
Iconoclaſts, the Greeks admit no image in their churches, yet pro-
fuſely cover the walls with portraits of faints or pictures from their
1
286
hiſtories, with explanatory legends. Some of the countenances are
highly laboured, and by the gloomy light have a groteſque kind of
richneſs. The favourite is St. George', whoſe pretenſions to a
place in the calendar were certainly not thoſe of a holy life. He is
frequently aſſociated with St. Demetrius, the patron of Theſſalonica,
who was likewiſe a military candidate for canonization. Theſe
equeſtrian ſaints are ſeen in moſt of the Greek churches.
Rycaut's Greek Church, p. 145, et ſeq.
1
287
SECTION XVIII.
RETURN TO CHESHME AND VOURLA-SMYRNAINBAT OR NOON-
TIDE ZEPHIR
MENIMEN
KLISSEKEUY
INSCRIPTIONS
ANECDOTE OF THE AGHA OF USHAK-CARINA-TEMPLE OF
HERCULES-PURPOSES TO WHICH ANCIENT MARBLES ARE AP-
PLIED BY THE TURKS PERGAMUS ATTALIAN KINGS
LIBRARY OF EUMENES-DEATH OF ATTALUS PHILOMETOR,
AND THE SUCCESSION OF THE ROMANS. .
Our voyage to Cheſhmè was completed in four hours. Erythræ ?,
famous for a ſibyl, and mount Mimas, on the ſummit of which
Anaxagoras 6 built an obſervatory, were a few miles to the north.
The route was repeated over the extremities of mount Corycus, as
far as Pyrghè to Vourla ; and from thence over the ſands of the bay
of Smyrna, and the point of the new caſtle. This ſea view is
flanked by rich groupes of mountains, and the road is ſhaded by
olive groves.
Nearer the town, the caſtle has a characteriſtic appearance con-
a The Erythræan, or the ſibyl of Cumæ in Italy, was the ſame. Her oracular com-
munications were placed by Tarquin in the capitol, and burned by accident during the
war of Marius and Sylla. Auguſtus deputed three ambaſſadors to Erythræ to procure a
genuine tranſcription, but they collected only myſterious verſes, known univerſally by
oral tradition. Lactantius de falſa fapientia, 1. i. c. 17. Tacitus, and Dion. Halycarn.
Pauſanias (1. vii. c. 5) notices the ſuperb temples of Hercules and Minerva Polias
at Erythræ.
b Diction, de Bayle.
“ Anaxagoras. He was a native of Clazomene."
" Hvepoeta Mijarta." Odyſ. 1. iii. v. 172. The ſcholiaſt ſays it was ſo called, as
having been the ſepulchre of the giant Mimas.
288
1
nected with the city and port. Some ſmall ruins that we paſſed,
we afterward learned were hot baths, with a temple and moſaic
pavement, diſcovered within the memory of man, and correſponding
with the ſite of one dedicated to Æſculapius, as deſcribed by Pauſa-
nias. The late rains had produced a faint verdure on the ſides of
the mountains, and afforded ſome idea of a ſpring proſpect in this
country. After a ſummer of unuſual heat, we ſaw landſcapes uni-
verſally deficient in ſoftneſs of tint, and with a ſteril brownneſs,
which filled the eye very heavily.
+
Another week at Smyrna paſſed agreeably, from the polite atten-
tion we received. The temperature of the air would have been very
oppreſſive but for a delicious zephir which ſprings up at mid-day,
and as it always fets in from the Ægean, over the bay, is called the
inbatd. The night's repoſe was interrupted, without ceaſing, by le-
gions of muſquitos, the ſting and buzzing of which are equally tor-
menting to ſtrangers, whom, as it were by inſtinct, they treat with
uncommon ſeverity?
Great refreſhment is found in the fruits of this luxuriant climate;
it produces melons of all kinds, grapes, and figs, which cannot be cx-
ceeded for richneſs of flavour.
On our departure we took a craggy road on the ſhores of the bay,
c L. vii, c. 5.
+ The inbat is particularly deſcribed by Wood, in the “ Eſſay on Homer," p. 25;
and is ſo called from “ inbatto," the beating in of the ſea, at a particular hour, into the
bay of Sinyrna.
• Dr. Chandler (chap. xix.) recommends lemon juice as an antidote; but a ſolution
of kali is a more efficacious remedy, as neutralizing the poiſon inſerted by the ſtings of any
kind of noxious fly.
+
289
***
which preſented that part of it we had travelled over. Both the
town and caſtle were better ſeen before; but the ſea, and the moun-
tains Pagus and Corax, now appeared to greater advantage. By
moonlight we reached Menimen, a large town abounding in wind-
mills, with long lanes of houſes, all built with ſun-dried clay, and
terrace roofs. The aghà directed us to a Greek, who practiſed phy-
fic, by whom we were accommodated.
On cvery fide are well cultivated farms to the banks of the
Hermus, which we forded, and remarked much more agriculture
and civilization than in other parts of Aſia; but we were in the dif-
trict of Kara Oſmàn Oglù. We ſaw many ploughs at work, all of
the rudeſt form, without wheels, and drawn by two oxen or buffalos,
having a very broad yoke, like a ladder.
To the right is a ridge of hills, in the bays of which are many
Turkiſh villages, fo flat and ſombre as ſcarcely to be diſcerned at a
diſtance, and few are marked by a minarèh. Theſe are a conti-
nuation of the extenſive ridge of mount Temnos. The mountains
in Anatolia are immenſe maſſes in ſeries, and diſtinguiſhed by a ge-
ncral name, like conſtellations.
Purſuing our way through Guzel-hiffar, we were benighted in a
thunder-ſtorm, and bewildered in a grove of pine trees; after reco-
vering the road to Kliffèkeuy, we experienced the courteſy of the
agha's ſon, and were very comfortable. His father was then ſum-
moned as a fief, or timar, to aſſiſt Kara Oſman againſt a rebellious
chief, Hadji Moràd-oglu. Hadji held an aghàlik at Uíhàk', diſtant
f Uſhik is ſituate near Apamea, and the ſource of the Meander. In that diſtrict
the afion, or liquid opium, is made in great quantities. It is likewiſe the ſeat of the ma-
nufacture of carpets, which are ſo conſiderable a branch of merchandize at Smyrna; and
the excellence of the ancient Phrygian tapeſtry is continued to the preſent day.
Рp
290
diſtant about ten days journey; and upon a quarrel with the Porte,
fortified his old caſtle, which had great advantage of ground, laid in
ammunition and ſtores fufficient for three years, afſembled his vaſſals,
and bade defiance. Kara Oſman, his neighbour, was directed to
compel him to obedience, but in the firſt encounter loſt a thouſand
men, without effect. He applied to the Porte for artillery, and laid
ſtronger ſiege to the fortreſs, when, the garriſon having been bribed
to betray their undaunted chief, he was immediately executed, and
his head expoſed in the gate of the feraglio. The hiſtory of this
commotion bears unfavourable traits of the Turkiſh government.
One of the feodal tenants, the intimate friend of Hadji, refuſed to
obey the ſultan's command, and the puniſhment of the diſobedi-
ence was required from him, in the cruel ſervice of fending the
head of his friend to Conſtantinople. The facrifice he made,
by his refuſal, to his attachment and humanity, involved theſe
dreadful confequences, the loſs of his own life, and the ruin of
his poſterity.
At a mile's diſtance from Kliffèkeuy we heard, that there were ſome
remains at Mal-tepèe, on the ſea fhore. Croſſing the hill and fir
grove at the edge of the gulf of Kandarli on the right, are ſeen
towers of a wall or caſtle, nearly upon the ſite of the ancient Cymæ,
the capital of Æolia. In a large vineyard we were ſhewn many
marble columns of the Ionic order, placed round a well, and a co-
loſſal trunk of the ſtatue of a man, with the neck and bearded chin
only, extremely muſcular. Hercules was ſo generally worſhipped in
this province, that it may be fairly conjectured to have been his ſtatue
f This is a very common name for tumuli in Turkey, and ſignifics literally the
money mount ;" for they are always conſidered as containing hidden treaſure.
M. Chevalier, in his account of the Troad, derives the Turkiſh word tepee, as a cor-
ruption from “ Tacos." "
291
and temple, if not a city ſurrounding. Carina's is mentioned as
immediately oppoſite to Leſbos, in the march of Xerxes, 'which it
might have more probably been, than either Canæ or Attalia. In
the ſtreet of Kliflèkeuy we found infcriptions which had been brought
from thence h. Every contiguous village is ſupplied with the ſpoils
of antiquity, which are commonly uſed for the following purpoſes.
Sarcophagi become troughs for fountains ; mutilated pillars and cor-
nices ornament the graves in great abundance, as each individual
is diſtinguiſhed; and capitals, when of large dimenſions, are turned
6 Herodotus, 1, v. c. 13.-Strabo, p. 615.-D'Anville.Chidognis, olim Heraclea,
according to the map given in the Voyage Pittoreſque de la Grèce.
1.
h
AT KLISSEKEUY, IN A FARM YARD.
Ο ΔΗΜΟΣ.
ΛΕΥΚΙΟΝ. ΑΓΡΙΟΝ. ΛΕΥΚΙΟΥ. ΥΙΟΝ.
ΤΟΥΒΛHION. ΒΑΣΣΟΝ. ΤΟΝ. ΠΑΤΡΩΝΑ. ΣΩΤΗΡΑ.
ΚΑΙ. ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΗΝ, ΓΕΝΟΜΕΝΟΝ.
ΤΗΣ. ΠΟΛΕΩΣ.
2.
AT A DOOR-WAY IN THE VILLAGE.
Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΚΑΙ Ο. ΔΗΜΟΣ.
ETEΙΜΗΣΕΝ.
(Αυ) ::ΛΟΝ. ΙΟΥΛΙΟΝ. ΚΟΥΑΔΡΑΤΟΝ.
::ΑΤΟΝ. ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΟΝ. ΚΡΗ:::
ΤΗΣ. ΚΑΙ. ΚΥΡΗΝΗΣ. ΠΡΕΣΒΥΤΗΝ.
ΤΟΥ. ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΥ. ΕΠΑΡΧΕΙΛΣ.
ΚΑΠΠΑΔΟΚΙΚΗΣ. ΠΡΕΣΒΕΥΤΗΝ.
ΤΟΥ. ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΥ. ΚΑΙ. ΑΝΤΙΣΡΑ.
ΤΗΤOΝ. ΛΥΚΙΑΣ. ΚΑΙ. ΦΑΜΦΥΛΙΑΣ.
ΠΡΕΣΒΥΤΗΝ. ΑΣΙΑΣ. Β.. ΠΡΕΣ.
BEY: ΠΟΝΤΟΥ. ΚΑΙ. ΒΙΘΥΝΝΙΑΣ.
1
| Aulus Julius Quadratus was twice conſul, and proconful (Aybowa to:) of Aſia in the reign of Trajan, as appears
from an inſcription diſcovered in the caſtle of Pergamus. Hift. Acad. Infc. t. xxviji. p. 54.
292
mortar.
upſide down, and being hollowed out, are placed in the middle of
the ſtrect, and uſed publicly for bruiſing wheat and rice, as in a
In building their houſes, they bury all the blocks they can
find, for a foundation. Such a deſtruction of what more poliſhed
nations would ſo carefully preſerve, cannot candidly be attributed to
a barbarous plcaſure in defacing theſe beautiful reliques, but an ig-
norance of their value, and a ſaving of labour; for many works of
the ancients, of no immediate uſe, and too large or diſtant for con-
venient removal, retain, even yet, a ſurpriſing degree of perfection.
In ſurveying a temple, a mutilation of the ornamental parts is
rarely ſeen, as having been wantonly performed, like the broken
niches, and decapitated ſaints, around many of the cathedrals in
England.
Several very
The vale of Caïcus is univerſally verdant, and very generally cul-.
tivated; it is flanked on cach ſide by high mountains. Several
lofty inſulated hills terminate in rocks of a very capricious ſhape,
ſome reſembling towers, an appearance, however, of which a near
view deprived them.
« Gemino demittunt brachia muro
· "Turriti fcopuli."
VIRG. Æn. iii. 353.
Two hours from Bergamo, its ſublime citadel, crowning a co-
nical point of the ſame deſcription, but much higher, is firſt ſeen;
and we proceeded, by an excellent road, to that city. We took up
our reſidence in the new khan, which we found ſo much fuperior in
accommodation to others, that we reſolved to inveſtigate this cele-
brated ſpot at our leiſure.
Pergamus is endeared to claſſic minds, as the place where litera-
ture was preſerved, by writing, from the uncertainty and fluctuation
-
293
of oral tradition, and committed to leſs periſhable records; where
ſuch encouragement was extended to the fine arts, that it became
the repoſitory of all that was excellent in them, compriſing the hap-
pieſt exertions of human ingenuity. In the hiſtory of learning, the
libraries of Ptolemy and Eumenes are equally celebrated, as being the
earlieſt and moſt magnificent plan for concentrating the wiſdom of
the ancients, for the information of poſterity.
U
The origin of this city is referred, by tradition, to Pergamus, the
ſon of Pyrrhus and Andromache, who gave it his own name.
About the fame time Æſculapius, the tutelary of medicine, paſſed
over from Epidaurus, in the Peloponneſus, with a ſecond colony of
Greeks, who became more famous than their predeceſſors. The
temple of Æſculapius remained in ſplendour from the earlieſt times
to the eſtabliſhment of chriſtianity
k
+
Prior to Lyſimachus, there are no evidences that Pergamus was
more than a ſtrong-hold; but when, upon his defeat of Antigonus,
at the battle of Ipfus, he had reſolved to fix his palace and court
there, a city, ſo called from the far-famed Acropolis of ancient Troy,
and reſembling it in ſituation, ſoon roſe under his auſpices'. The
wealth acquired in Perſian victories was employed for its fplen-
dour, and in a few years it exhibited a magnificence which ri-
valled the gradual proſperity of other cities originating from the
ſame founder m.
The Attalian kingdom from Philetærus to Attalus Philometor, to
i Pauſar. l. i. c. II.
k Ariſtid. de Concordia Urb. t. ii. p. 304.
1 Strabo, 1. xiii. p. 613.
m Galen. Comm. in Hippocratem de Naturâ hominum.
1
294
whom the Roman people conſtituted themſelves heirs, did not ex-
ceed two centuries in duration". To its original extent, the greater
part of Anatolia was added by the favour of the Romans, who, upon
their conqueſt of the Aſiatic provinces, committed them to their
ally. Upon the defeat of Antiochus, Lydia and Caria, as far
as thc Meander, were added to their former acquiſitions, and all
their ſtates were ſubjected to heavy tribute, the ſource of that
opulence which rendered Pergamus the moſt embellifhed of the
Grecian cities.
1
The reign of each of theſe monarchs was an era of elegance and
literature. Each of the forty-nine years which Eumenes enjoyed on
the throne was diſtinguiſhed by ſome new work of fplendour, by the
reſort and patronage of the ableſt artiſts and the moſt enlightened
philoſophers. Æfculapius was the tutelar divinity of the city, whoſe
worſhip was conducted, not with exhibitions of corporal ſtrength
and activity, as that of others, but in the ſcience and practice of
medicine. Before Galen, whoſe birth this city can boaſt, the
ſchool of medicine at Pergamus was held in high eſtimation, and
n Succeſſion of the kings of Pergamnus, in 153 years. Philetærus of Teos, the
uncle of Eumenes I. who defeated Antiochus Soter, king of Syria, died S. P. and was
ſucceeded by his couſin, Attalus I. Eumenes II. and Attalus II. ſurnamed Philadel-
phus, were his fons. Attalus Philometor III. the nephew of his predeceſſor, died 133
years after Chrift.
Livii Hift. I. xxxviii.--Hif. Acad. Infc. t. xii. p. 204-315, par l'Abbe Sevin.
“ The coirs of Philetærus are very rare."
Pinkerton on Coins, 8vo. v. ii. p. 156.
Hif. Acad. Infc. t. vi. 182, 183; ix. 397.
The library eſtabliſhed by Eumenes was not diſperſed till two hundred thouſand
books were given by Antony to Cleopatra, and depoſited at Alexandria with the vaſt col-
lection already made. Plutarch. in Antonio.
Dionys. Halycarn. mentions an academy of grammarians at Pergamus who have pub-
liſhed their memoirs, " Ey Tois IIegyausvois Tivagt. Dinarc. Oxon. 2d ed. p. 179.
295
by his ſuperior talents it reached a degree of credit unrivalled in
that age.
In the library, which Eumenes lived to complete, were depoſited
the choiceſt ſpecimens of every liberal art; and the ſtores of ancient
learning were copied in fair manuſcripts with the greateſt neatneſs
and diligence P.
Eumenes and Ptolemy were rival collectors; and if the library at
Pergamus yielded to that of Alexandria in number, it had the praiſe
of ſuperior beauty. It is ſaid, not without ſome doubts, that
Ptolemy, jealous of the increaſing fame of his rival, prohibited the
exportation of the “
papyrus ” from Egypt, and that the invention
of the charta Pergamena, or parchment, was the reſult of neceflity 4.
It is curious to obſerve, that the manufacture flouriſhes in the mo-
dern town.
The treaſures that were laviſhed by Eumenes and his ſucceſſor,
and the ſpirit of magnificence with which they purſued theſe objects
of taſte, have provoked from ſome hiſtorians the charge of oftenta-
tion; but let us allow, that, conſidered abſtractedly, as a lyžáry, it
• Galen was born at Pergamus A. D. 131, where his reputation was fo great, that
the emperor Marcus Antoninus invited him to Rome, and he practiſed there till the death
of that emperor. Nicon, his father, was an architect and mathematician, whoſe anceſtors
for ſeveral generations had followed that profeſſion, and were much celebrated at Perga-
mus. Galen, claſs ii. de fuccor. bonit. & vit. c. i. 11, et Lib. de animi morbis, c. viii.
Suidas de Galeno. Oribaſes, the phyſician of the emperor Julian, a native of Pergamus,
accompanied him in his Aſiatic expedition, and was made queſtor of Conſtantinople. He
abridged Galen's works.
p Hif. Acad. Infcr. t. ix.
9 Mem. Acad. Infc. t. vi. p. 183 ; t. xxxviii. p. 157.
A
296
involved neither oppreſſion nor perſonal injury; nor is it candid to
attribute to a meaner motive ſo beneficial a love of thoſe arts which
promote focial refinement".
The laſt of this illuſtrious race, Attalus Philometor, was diſtin-
guiſhed only by his misfortunes, and the memorable verbal teſta-
ment of which the Romans availed themſelves, with unpardonable
injuſtice.
The cruelties inflicted on ſome of his relatives, from the un-
founded ſuſpicion of their having poiſoned his wife and mother, was
atoned by the fevereſt contrition'. He neglected the cares of go-
vernment, and ſtrove to divert his deep melancholy by mechanic
employments. As he ſuperintended and aſſiſted in building a mau-
- Attalus offered a hundred talents for one picture by Ariſtides of Thebes. Plin.
Nat. Hift. I. vii. c. 38.
L. Mummius Achaicus having expoſed to ſale the ſpoils of his victory, Attalus pur-
chaſed a picture of Bacchus, by Ariſtides, for fix thouſand ſeſterces; but Mummius
ſuſpecting it to be of greater value, reclaimed it from Attalus, much againſt his will,
and placed it in the temple of Ceres. It was the firſt picture publicly exhibited in
Rome. Ibid. l. xxxv. C. 4.
A portrait of Ajax ſtruck by lightning, by Apollodorus, “ qui Pergami ſpectatur
hodie." Ibid. c. ix. Attalus is reported to have given a hundred talents to Protogenes
for a picture, and he offered fixty for another repreſenting the Necromantia of Honner,
by Pamphilus, the maſter of Apelles, which was conſidered as too finall a price. Ibid.
C. X. xi.
• “Omiffà deinde regni adıniniſtratione, hortos fodiebat, gramina ſeminabat, ab hoc
ſtudio ærariæ artis fabricæ fe tradit, ceriſque fingendis et ære fundendo delectabatur.
Matri deiifde ſepulchrum facere inſtituit, cui operi intentus, morbum ex folis fervore con-
traxit, et ſeptimâ die deceflit. Hujus teſtamento Hæres Populus Romanus tunc inſti-
tuitur. Sic. Afia, Romanorum facta, cum opibus fuis vitia quoque tranſıniſit.” Juftin.
1. xxxvi. c. 4.
297
ſoleum for his mother, he was ſeized with a calenture, which put a
period to his life, uttering an equivocal bèqueſt.
In 624 U.C. Perperna the conſul, in the firſt engagement, de-
feated the unfortunate Ariſtonicus, the natural ſon of Eumenes II.
who aſpired to the throne, and tranſported immenſe treaſures, in
triumph, to Rome. This was the dawn of the arts in Italy, and
introduced in a few years an admiration of Grecian ornaments, for
which no expence was deemed too great; at firſt they were appro-
priate to temples only, but in the progreſs of wealth and luxury, they
were frequent in the embelliſhment of palaces and gardens.
Rome, in her earlier days, was a ſchool of military diſcipline, of
frugality, and politics, but not of the fine arts. Her public edifices
might have been vaſt and folid, but were devoid of ornament or
grace. When the victorious Romans had viſited and deſpoiled the
cities of Greece, they introduced an univerſal cultivation of genius,
as yet uncorrected by taſte or refinement, and Grecian architecture,
when removed from its original ſeat, flouriſhed under new auſpices,
in more numerous, but leſs claſſical examples.
For models of excellence in architecture a recourſe was always
neceſſary to Greece, then, as now, abaſed and enſlaved, which no
longer boaſting a Solon, a Lycurgus, or an Epaminondas, could ſtill
give laws in the fine arts to her inſolent miſtreſs.
Græcia capta feram vi&tricem cepit.
+ Perperna conſul primâ congreſſione Ariſtonicum ſuperatum in poteſtatem ſuam
redegit, Attalicaſque gazas hæreditarias populi Romani navibus impoſitas, Romain depor-
tavit. Juſtin, l. xxxvi. C. 4. Eutropius, 1. iv. Florus, 1. ii. c. 20. Lydia, Ionia, Caria,
Helleſpont, Mylia, and part of Phrygia, were made provinces of Rome by the victories of
M. Perperna and M. Aquileius.
Q9
298
Juſtin remarks" that foreign vices were appendant to theſe ele-
gances, and traces to them the origin of popular depravity. Horace
alludes, with dexterous ſatire, to the rapacious conduct of the Ro-
mans, in a general vindication of his own character.
Neque Attali
Ignotus hæres regiam occupavi."
HOR, 1. ii. od. 18, V. 5, 6.
299
SECTION XIX.
REMOVAL OF THE TREASURES OF ATTALUS FROM PERGAMUS TO
ROME-HISTORY OF
PERGAMUS-MODERN CITY THE RESI-
DENCE OF HADJEM MORAD OGLU-RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF
ST. JOHN-MOUNTAIN AND CASTLE-TEMPLE DEDICATED TO
TRAJAN—PALACE OF THE ATTALIAN KINGS-LIBRARY-STA-
TUES AND PICTURES-TESSELLATED PAVEMENTS-NAUMACHIA
-THEATRE-TEMPLE OF ÆSCULAPIUS-COMMON SEWERS-
VALE OF CAICUS RECEPTION BY THE AGHA OF AYASMATH
DESCRIPTION OF THE DOMESTIC LIFE OF A TURKISH COUN-
A
TRY GENTLEMAN.
The Roman republic confirmed the injuſtice of their acquiſition by
thc rapacity with which they deſpoiled Pergamus of its ornaments.
Nor was it reſtored to a ſtyle of grandeur in any degree to be com-
pared to that which it boaſted under its own kings, till Auguſtus
had gained the peaceful poſſeſſion of the world.
The grateful ſtates of Aſia Minor erected a temple, and appointed
games to him, as to a divinity, during his lifea. His ſucceſſors in
a The quinquennial gymnaſtics were celebrated at Pergamus, by which they obtained
the ſtyle of NESKOPOI, and the privilege of dedicating a temple.
When the temple to Auguſtus was erected, games were likewiſe cſtabliſhed, which
were called in ancient inſcriptions Augeotela. Tacitus, l. iv. c. 37. Dion. Caf. lib. li.
P: 310. Thomæ Smith Opuſcul. edit. 1716, p. 9. Spon. Mifcell. p. 367.
Abbate Seftini (Coll. Ajnſeian, v. i. p. 136) mentions, upon authority, that there were
at Pergamus temples ſacred to Jupiter (ZETS VIXIOE), Æſculapius, and Minerva ; and
upon a braſs coin of thc einpreſs Cornelia, the reverſe bore an Eſculapius leaning on his
1
300
the empire continued his patronage, and two others were dedicated
to Trajan and to Commodus, which were ſcarcely leſs ſplendid and
ſpacious than thoſe already facred to Jupiter, Minerva, and their tu-
telary, Æſculapius.
But theſe were fuperſeded by the prevailing progreſs of Chriſti-
anity; and the angel of the Revelations, in an addreſs, more favour-
able than thoſe to the other fix churches, laments their hereſy and
fickleneſs.
Previous to the ſecond ſiege of Conſtantinople by the Saracens,
Pergamus was taken by Moſlemàh, brother of the kalife Solyman,
in 718, during the reign of Anaſtaſius b. After the war between
Hadjil Bey and Turzon Bey, brother princes of the Seljukian race,
and the repreſentatives of Saròokhan, it was ſeized by Orchan, and
added to the cities already made tributary by his victorious army.
The modern city of Bergamod is certainly not ſo inconſiderable
6. Max-
ſtaff, “ TIEPTAMENNN. NENKOPAN." V. iv. p. 109. In a temple in the gardens of
the villa Borgheſe, near Rome, dedicated to Aſculapius, with an antique ſtatue and bas
reliefs, is the following truly claſſical inſcription. «« ΑΣΚΛΕΠΕΙΩ ΣΩΤΗΡΙ.”
imus aegris avxiliator adeft. Et feftinantia fiftens fata. Salvtifero mitis Devs incubat
angvi." The antique ſculptors have been particularly happy in delineating the amiable
traits of character which mark the countenance of this ſtatue, of which, with the ſame at-
titude and attributes, there is one exquiſitely finiſhed in the gallery at Florence, and a
groupe
of Æſculapius and Hygeia, at the Vatican, of the moſt elaborate art. Might not
one of theſe have originally decorated a temple or palace at Pergamus?
• Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. x. p. 10.
c Cantemir, p. 27.
4 Gibbon (v. i. p. 8o) ſays, that “ Pergamus was one of the eleven cities of Aſia that
diſputed the lionour of dedicating a temple to Tiberius ;” and that “it is now a ſtraggling
village of two or three thouſand inhabitants."
Wheler's Voyage, b. iii. p. 262
1
301
as it has been repreſented, for it has nine moſques, to each of which
a parochial diſtrict is appendant, and occupies an oblong circum-
ference of three miles at the foot of the mountain above mentioned,
with a ſouthern aſpect. It has the advantage of two rivulets, being
interſected by the Selinus, and ſurrounded by the Cetius, the ancient
names, as given by Pliny. It is the reſidence of Hadjem Morad,
brother of Kara Oſman Oglù, who has a large palace in the Turkiſh
ſtyle, with a ſuitable retinue. The environs exhibit many proofs of
his excellent government, and of the good policy which has rendered
his family fo powerful and well-beloved. Some years ſince, when
he firſt reſolved upon the reformation he has ſince effected, his en-
deavours were baffled by a. band of free-booters, who claimed extra-
ordinary privileges, as being employed in the gold and ſilver mines of
Nymphæa', a few hours diſtant from Pergamus, in which they fc-
creted themſelves. Kara Oſman decided upon a never-failing expe-
dient in this country. He bribed the chiefs of the banditti to neg-
lect the mines, that they might become ſo unproducțive as not to
repay the ſultan for the expence of working them. The plan ſuc-
ceeded to its full extent; the mines were cloſed up, the privileges
ſuſpended, and the robbers expoſed, without refuge, to the executive
juſtice.
As we approached the town we obſerved three very large tumuli,
thrown up, according to received tradition, by the Turks, or probably
Longe clariſſiinum Afiæ Pergamum, quod intermeat Selinus, præfluit Cetius
profufus Pindaſo monte." Plin. Nat. Hift. I. v. c. 23.
f Nymphæa, or Nymphæun, was the palace of the emperor Michael Palæologus in
1260; and though its exact ſite be not aſcertained by any ancient or modern geographer,
it is evident that it was not far diſtant from Smyrna. Gibbon, v. xi. p. 322, n. This
place is within twenty miles eaſtward from that city, near Magneſia. Du Cange (l. iv.
p. 178) ſays it was the original palace of the Nicæan emperors.
302
during the fiege by Moſlemah; but the authentic hiſtory of theſe
rude monuments is unknown, and as the work of any nation, they
have no diſtinguiſhing veſtige.
1
Near the khan are the maſſive ruins of the church of Agios
Theologos, conjectured to be one of thoſe which the emperor Theo-
dofius cauſed to be erecteds. The internal diviſion into aiſles was made
by two rows of granite columns, the ſpoils of former temples, frag-
ments of which abound. Upon them reſted the galleries for the women
level with the windows. The tribune, or altar, is embowed, and on
either ſide, at ten yards diſtance, is a cupola, finiſhing a room of forty
feet diameter, and more than a hundred feet high, both which, re-
taining their domes, exceed the other walls about five yards. The whole
length is 225 feet. It is conſtructed with brick, and pieces of mar-
blc for ornament, and is, excepting S. Sophia at Conſtantinople, what
conveys
the beſt idea of the chriſtian churches on the Greek model.
In the ſtreets, and inſerted into the walls of the houſes, are innu-
merable pieces of broken architecture; but the exact ſite of
ple we were not able to aſcertain h.
any tem-
The aſcent of the mountain is made eaſy by a circuitous road,
& Pergamus was one of the ſeven churches mentioned in the ſecond chapter of the
Revelations.
h Sub Trajano vero aut Adriano, Pergami alterum templum Trajano extructum fuit,
in cujus honorem agon inſtitutus TPAIANEIA dictus, cujus mentio in inſcriptione Arun-
deliana Publ. Septimii « ΠΕΡΓΑΜΕΝΩΝ ΛΥΓΟΥΣΤΕΙΑ. Γ. ΤΡΑΙΑΝΕΙΑ, ΑΣΚΛΕΠΕΙΑ,
KOMMOAEIA," Albert. Rubenius de urbibus Ncocoris. Hift. Acad. Infc. t. xviii. p. 143:
A coin of Caracalla, at Pergamus, has three temples on its reverſe-of Auguſtus, of
Trajan, and the third of Commodus, erected in the reign of Caracalla.
The temple of Auguſtus was particularly magnificent, and appears on his coins as
octoftyle, or having a portico of eight columns. Auguſtus" (faid Tiberius before the
ſenate) “ fibi atque urbi Romæ templum apud Pergamnum fifti non prohibuit.” Tacit.
Ann. l. iv. c. 35.
303
and a great part of the ancient broad pavement remains. The wars
of the later centuries have chiefly occaſioned its preſent appearance,
and the fortreſs is the prominent feature; but farther inveſtigation
will diſcover the more intereſting works of claſſic ages. Strabo re-
cites that this cliff was the acropolis, and indeed the whole city of
Lyſimachus and his immediate ſucceſſors; and mentions with praiſe,
as exiſting in his own time, a library, and ſeveral eminent literary
characters. The half-way ſpace of the hill is defended by an out-
work of embattled wall of conſiderable extent, with frequent towers.
A little above is a platform, intended as a battery, built entirely of
marble fragments, columns, cornices, and other ornaments, cemented
in beds of mortar. A curious expedient has been attempted, that of
perforating ſome of the ſhafts of the columns, many of which are
fixed in a row, and uſing them for cannon. The caſtle, which
covers the whole ſummit of the mountain, includes about eight
acres, reſembling thoſe at Smyrna and Aiaſoluk, and probably con-
temporary with them. Facing the ſouth-eaſt is a wail of hewn
granite, at leaſt a hundred feet deep, ingrafted into the rock; and
above that a courſe of large ſubſtructions, forming a ſpacious area,
upon which once roſe a temple unrivalled in ſublimity of ſituation,
being viſible from the vaſt plain and the Ægean ſea.
The four columns of Corinthian, as firſt adopted by the Romans,
with capitals, and angles of the cornice and pediment, in the higheſt
ornament, lie in a lofty heap. Of the dimenſions it is caſy to form
an accurate judgment; the whole length of the cell was thirty-four
feet, of the complete ground-plan, forty-nine, and of the portico,
twenty, the pillars of which were four feet in diameter. In point of
ſize and ſtyle, the temple of Claudius, at Epheſus, bears the neareſt
reſemblance. It is, however, worthy remark, that the tori of the
columns are ſculptured with wreaths of laurel, and the frizes have
deep feſtoons of the ſame, with eagles; a mode of decoration cha-
304
racteriſing many edifices erected in the days of Trajan, who, it is
therefore a fair ſuppoſition, was honoured by this edifice i.
Thek intermediate poffeffors have evinced their neglect of theſe
reliques, and the Turks are daily hewing the vaſt ſingle blocks into
troughs for water. The marble vaſe and inſcription feen within the
caſtle by Smith and Wheler no longer remain?.
!
Whilſt, with a magnificence unknown to contemporary princes,
the public buildings of Attalus had diſplayed ſuch perfection, the
royal palace was conſtructed with equal taſte, and the furniture con-
i Hift. de l'Acad. Inſc. t. xxviii. p. 158.
A medal, upon which it is deſcribed as having a portico of four columns, which cor-
reſponds with theſe remains, is engraven in Haym. t. ii. pl. 7, Nº. 10.
k The following inſcription, which may perhaps be a popular decree, relative to the
feaſts of Bacchus and Diana, from all that can be collected from its mutilated ſtate, is
partly buried in the foundation of one of the towers.
.
Ν
:
:
:
::::::ΥΠ ΑΡΙΣΤΟΜΑΧΟΥ ΗΝ ::::ΣΥ ΤΟΥ ΠΑΡ Η.
ΜΩΝ ΑΠΟΣΤΑΛΕΝΤΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΤΩΝ ΠΡΟΞΕ ΝΩΝ
ΤΩΝ Υ'Φ ΗΜΩΝ ΤΕ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΣ ΑΛΕΞΑ::: κ' ΑΤΕ
ΡΩΝ ΤΡΙΩΝ ΑΝΔΡΩΝ ΚΕΡΥΚΩΝ ΕΝΘΑΔ ΥΦΗ.
ΜΩΝ ΟΠΕΡΚΙΝΩ ΑΝΑΓΡΑΦΗΝΑΙ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΙΕΡΟΝ
ΤΟΥ ΔΙΟΝΥΣΟΥ ΟΠΩΣ ΥΜΙΝ ΑΣΦΑΛΕΣ ΚΑΙ ΙΣΟΝ
ΤΟΙΣ ΝΟΜΟΙΣ ΕΙΣ ΤΟΝ ΛΟΙΠΟΝ ΧΡΟΝΟΝ ΥΠΑΡ
XH TO AE ::::IN TIIOKEIMENON AETPON EI.
ΝΑΙ ΠΡΟΣ ΑΝΑΓΡΑΦΕΣΘΑΙ ΔΕΚΑ ΤΑΛΑΝΤΙΝΑ
ΜΕΤΑ ΤΑΥΤΑ KOINHI ΚΡΙΝΑΝΤΕΣ ΜΕΤΑ
ΤΟΥ ΠΕΜΠΟΜΕΝΟΥ ΕΠΙ ΤΗΝ ΔΙΕΞΑΓΩΓΗΝ.
ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΙΕΡΟΝ ΤΗΣ ΑΡΤΕΜΙΔΟΣ.
3 Smith Opufc. p. 14, 15. Spon, t. 1. p. 345. Wheler, ν. 1. p. 240.
305
tained the accumulated ſtores of art and elegancem. Of its ſite no-
thing can be poſitively aſſerted; but it is probable, from ſome Greek
verſes of Julian, the ex-præfect of Egypt, that it was extremely ele-
vated and beautiful, as it was thought worthy of compariſon, in
point of proſpect, with the Byzantine palace". Perhaps it roſe from
ſome of the artificial platforms near the citadel, and was connected
with it. The ſame mention ſeems to prove likewiſe, that the dila-
pidation, which now leaves all to conjecture, had not taken place in
the fourth century, ſo that it muſt have exiſted about fix hundred
years.
Some of the highly decorated apartments had floors com-
poſed of ſquare dies of porcelain, with compartments of pietra dura,
and afforded the earlieſt inſtance of the teſſellated pavement. This
faſhion, when tranſported to Rome, was very generally adopted; and,
in the firſt era of the empire, having been communicated to all the
colonies, are now thoſe veſtiges which are moſt frequently diſcovered
in an entire ſtate, particularly in Britainº.
Pauſanias (1. ix. C. 35) ſpeaks of the bed-chamber of Attalus as containing a pic-
ture of the Graces habited, by the Parian Pythagoras, which ſubject was likewiſe repeated
in a temple at Pergamus called Πυθων.
n The epigram occurs in Antholog. Græc. l. iv. p. 488, 489. Brodzi apud Wechel.
Seventy-one epigrams of Julian are collected by Brunck, Analecta. Græc. t. ii. p. 495-
510, but this is omitted.
• Pliny (1. xxxiv. c. 25) deſcribes “ litho ſtrata," or teſſellated pavements. Sozas
was eminent for perfection in this art, and made in the palace of Pergamus the floor called
To acapulov (quod non verritur), which Cardinal Furietti, in his work “ De Muſivis"
(c. ii. p. 28 to 30) deſcribes as repreſenting the remains of a feaſt ſcattered on the floor,
with the broken viands inimitably copied.
His moſt excellent performance is a repreſentation of four doves, one of which is
drinking out of a bowl, mentioned by Pliny, 1. xxxvi. c. 60. It was removed to Italy;
and having been diſcovered about the beginning of this century, amongſt the ruins of Ha-
drian's villa at Tivoli, by Cardinal Furietti, was ſold to Benedict XIV. who placed it in
the muſeum of the Campidoglio at Rome, where it inay be now ſeen in a ſtate of ſcarcely
+
Rr
306
With a deſcent, almoſt perpendicular on the north and weſtern
ſides, is a very narrow valley, with the rivulet Selinus, over which,
at one extremity, the great aqueduct of one row of lofty arches is
conſtructed, and at the other a pile of maſſive building, which, filling
the whole breadth of the valley, was the front and grand entrance
into the naumachia, an amphitheatre as extenſive as that at Miletus
would be, were the circle completed. The ſubſellia and ſuperſtruc-
ture of lofty porticos remain. When the arena was dry, and the
ſtream confined to its narrow bounds, it was applied to the purpoſes
of the circus and ſtadium, and frequently uſed for chariot races and
gymnaſtic exerciſes. It is the moſt complete edifice of the kind in
Aſia Minor P.
3
The coloflæum at Rome, and the amphitheatres of Verona and
Niſmes, ſupplying by compariſon whatever may be deficient in the
preſent ſtate of each, will communicate, to thoſe who have inſpected
them ſeverally, a correct idea of the general principle and plan of
that ſpecific kind of architecture amongſt the Romans and their pre-
deceſſors. There is a ſtriking reſemblance between theſe remains
and the more perfect ſpecimens above mentioned, to which may be
added, thoſe at Capua, Arles, and Bourdeaux, though now in a leſs
perfect ſtate, yet plainly exhibiting no memorable variety of ground-
plan' or conſtruction.
credible perfection. I felt morc veneration for it than for any object in that ſuperb
collection.
Ciampini on Moſaics” may be conſulted, as abounding in information on this
ſubject, printed at Rome, fol. 1690.
p The remains of another are ſaid to be traceable at Cyzicum, the chief of the Hel-
leſpontic cities; the antiquities of which, particularly of a temple, rivalling thoſe of Ionia,
are critically deſcribed by Count Cäylus and Dr. Pococke.
307
*
From the ſummit of the acropolis it appears, that although the
ancient city was ſpread over the mountain, and probably confined
within the line of the lower fortification, when the Romans were
cſtabliſhed, they choſe à more acceſſible ground, which riſes behind
the naumachia. It is ſufficiently evident that the whole was occu-
pied by them, and has advanced to the ſite of the preſent city, the
common ſewers of which, compoſed of a cylinder of brick of at leaſt
thirty feet diameter, and ſerving as a conduit of the ſtream above
mentioned, were amongſt the moſt expenſive and uſeful of their
public works. Thoſe at Rome made by Tarquinius Priſcus laſted
eight centuries without repairs; and where theſe have fallen in, it
appears to have been occaſioned rather by intention and force than
by gradual decay.
At the weſtern extremity of the hill are the remains of a theatre,
not ſo large or perfect as that at Miletus, with a ſimilar aſpect. The
entrance and arcades, on the left, are ſtill ſtanding, and the area is
now filled with huts and ſmall gardens, againſt the bank where the
ſeats were placed. A neighbouring cemetery has for ages been
ſupplied with its marble embelliſhments, which are collected in great
profuſion to ornament the graves, near to which, if not on that ſite,
was once placed the celebrated temple of Æſculapius, which, amongſt
other privileges, had that of an aſylum%. The concourſe of invalids
to this temple was almoſt without number or ceffation. They paſſed
the night there to invoke the Deity, who communicated remedies,
either in dreams or by the mouths of his prieſts, who diſtributed
drugs and performed chirurgical operations". The emperor Caracalla
mer
“ Conſules apud Pergamum Æfculapii compertum
4 Tacit. Ann. 1. iv. c. 55.
afylum retulerunt.'
I Ariſtid. Orat. Sac. xi.
308
in 215 repaired to Pergamus for the recovery of his health, but
Æfculapius was unmoved by his prayers .
When Pruſias II. king of Bithynia, was forced to raiſe the fiege of
Pergamus, he nearly deſtroyed this temple, which ſtood contiguous
to the theatre without the city walls & Caius Fimbria, the proconſul,
when abandoned by his troops, and foreſeeing an implacable enemy
in Sylla, fled to this ſanctuary, where, in deſpair, he fell upon
his
ſword".
As we left Bergamo we retraced the rich vale of Caïcus in a
more northward direction, through open corn-fields, or plains of ex-
cellent verdure. Villages were few, and thoſe diſtant; for one
coffee-hut was almoſt all the habitation we met with till we reached
Ayaſmath. We overtook many ruſtics driving home their oxen at
ſun-ſet, with aſſes to carry their ploughs, which they take in pieces,
of a form extremely rude and ſimple; but the ſoil is light.
Ibrahim, the agha of Ayaſmath, was abfent with Kara Oſman, in
his expedition already noticed, ſo being introduced to Haly Effendi,
we were admitted to his houſe with real hoſpitality. His family
and eſtabliſhment are numerous, as the harèms of his two ſons, as
well as his own, are under his roof-a patriarchal plan of living, very
congenial with eaſtern manners. His chiftlik is one of the beſt ſpe-
cimens of the reſidence of a country gentleman in Turkey; and
having been lately built, and by a rich man, it may be preſumed to
be beſt adapted to the purpoſes of ſuperior life, and the buſineſs of
agriculture.
We entered by a large gateway into a ſpacious court-yard, ſur-
- Herodian, I. iv.
Ariſtid. Orat. Sac. iv.
u Plutarch in Syll.
309
rounded on three ſides by ſtables, and chambers for the ſervants of
the farm, as high only as the outſide wall, and covered with flat
terrace roofs. In front, and occupying the other ſide, ſtands the
houſe, conſtructed of wood carved and painted, with ſentences of the
Koràn interſperſed. The lower part of Turkiſh houſes is invariably
appropriated to offices; but aſcending the ſtairs, the intermediate
ſpace is a very wide open gallery, communicating with the ſuite of
apartments. The wings, with another ſide of the houſe toward the
weſt, compoſe the harèm. The ladies have likewiſe their gallery,
and a garden. We were accommodated in a ſelamlık, which ſerves
the purpoſe both of a parlour and ſleeping room.
1
On our arrival we were received by Hali Effendi with a certain
untaught gracefulneſs, and expreſſions of hoſpitality; were placed
near him on his divan, and ſerved with the uſual compliments of
coffee and tobacco. About two thirds of the floor are raiſed more
than a foot above the other, being covered with a carpet; all round
are ſpread mattraffes of tapeſtry, with large cuſhions placed cloſe to-
gether againſt the wall. In the lower part of the room, where the
ſlippers are left and the ſervants wait, was a large preſs, containing
bed furniture. The windows below are wooden lattices opening to
the gallery, over which a ſhelf, like a cornice, ſurrounds the room; in
the harèm, always decorated with a diſplay of porcelain. Near the
ceiling are many ſmall faſhes, which are double, and ornamented on
the inſide with ſtained glaſs. The whitened walls are uſually in-
ſcribed with appoſite paſſages from the Koràn, in letters of gold on
a black or green pannel, and the ceiling is lofty, and richly painted.
About an hour after our arrival the ſervants prepared for ſupper,
and placed a low ftool with a ſalver of tinned copper, like a tea-
board, upon the carpet. Spoons only were brought; for knives,
forks, or plates, are not in uſe. The viands are always cut into ſmall
310
pieces, and eaten with the right hand only. Four diſhes, of no con-
temptible cookery, were then ſerved fingly, and after our repaſt,
water, both to drink and waſh; for the Turks do not drink with
their meals. After coffee they began to arrange the cuſhions for our
night's repoſe, when a counterpane, with a ſheet facked to it, was
diſtributed to each of us. This mode of ſleeping is univerſal; for
the men in Turkey take off only a part of their clothes, excepting in
their harem.
As to the domeſtic habits and plan of life amongſt Turkiſh gen-
tlemen, judging from the example of Haly Effendi, none can be
more regular. He has an imaum in his houſe, who calls the ſtated
hours of prayer, which is ſcrupulouſly performed five times a days.
* A ſlight account, extracted from D'Ohlſon's Tabl. de l’Emp. Ottom. t. ii. c. 2,
where the whole ſubject is minutely detailed, may not be tedious.
A rik'at conſiſts of eight attitudes and proſtrations, during which certain ejaculatory
prayers are pronounced. Two others, with the repetition of the fatih'hat, or firſt
chapter of the Koràn, complete a namaz. There are five canonical hours of prayer:
1. Between day-break and ſun-riſe, invented by Adam, after his expulſion from paradiſe.
2. At mid-day, by Abraham, after the ſacrifice of his ſon. 3. In the afternoon, three
hours after the former, by the prophet Jonas. 4. At ſun-ſet, by Jeſus Chriſt. 5. At
night, when the horizon is entirely obſcured, by Moſes. Theſe are reputed to be of di-
vine inſtitution, and muſt conſiſt of ſo many rik'ats, as directed by Mohammed; the firſt
of four, the ſecond of eight, the third of fix, the fourth of five, and the fifth of fix, which
may be made in congregation with an imaum in a moſque, or individually, but on no ac-
count without the preſcribed ablutions. The muezzin, or crier, aſcends to the gallery of
the minarèh, or hollow column always annexed to a moſque, and chants the ezànn, the
form of announcing the hours of prayer, in a very loud and diſtinct tone of voice. “O
God moſt high !” (four times) “ I atteſt that there is no other God, but God; I declare
that Mohammed is the prophet of God. Come to prayer; come to the temple of ſalva-
tion; God is great, and there is no other;" all which is twice repeated. To the ezinn
of day-break is added, “Come to prayer ; prayer ſhould be preferred to ſleep." On Fri-
day, four rik'ats muſt be added to the prayer of mid-day. With ſuch ſtrictneſs is this
obligation enjoined, that a good muſulman is exempted from it only in fickneſs, and during
a journey; when interrupted, or rendered inefficacious by impurity, it muſt be renewed;
t
311
1
We ſaw him ſitting in his gateway adminiſtering juſtice, and decid-
ing on the diſputes of his numerous vaſſals. His zaim, or military
fief, contains many hundred acres in good cultivation, and nearly two
hundred agricultural ſervants, amongſt whom are ſixty Arabs, who,
though ſlaves, are not excluded from the common privileges of the
others. His amuſements are hunting and hawking, for which his
horſes and hawks are excellent. There is a ſpecies of large white
greyhound, the legs and tail of which are fantaſtically ſtained red
with kinah, which is moſt in requeſt, and it is uſual to take out eight
or ten couples of theſe dogs together. The affability of Turks of the
better fort to their inferiors is very ſtriking. Whoever comes with
buſineſs or requeſt, fits down without ceremony, is made welcome by
the civileſt appellation, takes his pipe, and enters upon his detail.
Totally ignorant as they are as to other nations, and little informed
in the affairs of their own, the uſual occurrences of the day within fo
narrow a ſphere are important enough to occupy their whole mind;
and the equanimity and temperate happineſs, to which they have
certainly attained, ſeem in ſome meaſure to diſparage the utility of
extenſive curioſity, or reſtleſs ſpeculation.
and alms muſt be bequeathed, in proportion to the number of prayers which the teftator
acknowledges himſelf to have omitted in his life-time.
See likewiſe Sale's Preface to the Kuràn, v. i. p. 142.
0
I
312
SECTION XX.
!
ISLAND OF MYTELENE-CITY OF MYTELENE-ROAD THROUGH
--
OLIVE GROUNDSRECEPTION WITH HADGI BEKIR EFFENDI
METHYMNE-PETRA-MOLLEVAMEHMET BEY-CUSTOM OF
INHERITANCE IN MYTELENE-CLIMATE-POETS-TERPANDER,
ALCÆUS, AND SAPPHO-WINE, SO ESTEEMED BY THE ROMANS
OF THOSE WHO HAVE FOUND AN ASYLUM AT MYTELENE-
GREEKS AFTER THE LOSS OF CONSTANTINOPLE-LEONARD OF
-
CHIO-EXTENT ACCORDING TO STRABO AND PLINY PRIZE
FOR BEAUTY GIVEN IN THE TEMPLE OF JUNO-PITTACUS—
MILITARY HISTORY OF THE ISLAND-
INFLUENCE OF THE
TURKS-LEAVE MYTELENE-VOYAGE TO NARLA-CHEBNA-
EVIJEKARIJEK-PROSPECT OF THE TROAD.
The ezànn of day-break, in a clear and harmonious voice, called us
from ſleep; and after a Turkiſh repaſt we bade farewell to our kind
hoſt, highly impreſſed with the genuine urbanity of the Ottoman
character, when native, and unpolluted by court reſidence and in-
trigue.
Having rode two miles, we came to the ſhore, and in four hours,
with a favourable wind, arrived at Mytelene.
It is uncertain when the name of the iſland was changed from
Leſbos to Mytelene. · Euſtathius enumerates five cities as exiſting in
his time, mentioning that it had been lately called Mytelene, as it
had anciently been Leſbos. Two commodious harbours are made
313
by a fine promontory, abrupt toward the fea on the north-weſt,
having an eaſy declivity to the town, which occupies the inter-
mediate valley. The caſtle on the promontory is both more perfect
and extenſive than any work of the lower Greeks, or Venetians,
which we had inſpected. It has two diviſions of lofty embattled
walls, with towers open on the inſide, the whole area being covered
with houſes, moſques, and cypreſſes, which relieve the view, and
give it a very pictureſque air. From the oppoſite hill it appears to
particular advantage, crowning both the harbours, and the modern
town. Here we ſearched in vain for veſtiges of the ancient city, but
neither column nor marble could we diſcover. From many evi-
dences it is certain that it was the ſite of a conſiderable part of the
original city; the other is ſtill in exiſtence, as a large village of very
incommodious ſtreets a
Of all the towns we had viſited, of equal fame and flouriſhing
ſtate, we found none fo entirely deſtitute of ancient evidences as
Mytelene. Two miles diſtant are the ruins of a large aqueduct, of
grey marble; but of the temple of Apollo without the walls, nothing
can be traced
Our mules conveyed us, ſeveral hours length, through olive-
grounds, extremely luxuriant as to vegetation, but with foliage form-
ing a melancholy made; and the only cultivation of them we ob-
ſerved, were low walls built round to preſerve the roots. The vine-
yards hang on the ſlopes of the hills at a diſtance. Bays and inlets
of the ſea moſt beautifully vary the mountainous face of the whole
iſland.
a Strabo, 1. xii. -Vitruv. I. i. c. 6.-Cicero de Lege Agrariâ.
b Thucyd. I. iii.
SS
314
We foon paffed Porto Jero, fo called from the village at the
head of it, which appears land-locked, and reſembles a fine lake,
with ſpreading ſhores peculiarly pictureſque. On the north ſide is
one of the many hot ſprings in the iſland, uſed as a bath by Turkiſh
women only, when invalids. It iſſues from a ridge of rocks ſtrik-
ingly like thoſe of St. Vincent, near Briſtol; and could we have
examined the water, we might have found it of the fame ſalubrious
quality.
We proceeded through covert lanes of myrtle, incloſing vineyards
in full bloom, and much taller than our heads ; excepting which,
cultivation is neglected, and the inhabitants few. Scenes abound-
ing in fine catches of the ſea amuſed us in our journey, many
of which, with a few liberties of fancy, would make exquiſite
landſcapes.
Nearly oppoſite to Porto Colonnì is another very large inlet of the
ſea : having left Ereſus d and the Sigrian promontory to the north, we
were encouraged by the hoſpitality we had lately experienced to halt
at the chiftlik of an aghà; and we dined moſt comfortably with
Hadji Bekir Effendi In the early part of his life having great pro-
perty in olives, he conducted the commerce himſelf, and had made
many voyages into the Mediterranean and Adriatic. His converſa-
tion therefore was much more rational than that of many of his
c An accurate plan of “ Porto Jero" is given in the V. P. de la Grèce, p. 83.
4 Ereſus was the birth-place of Sappho.--The ſilver and braſs coins of Ereſus are
extremely ſcarce and valuable. Pinkerton, v. ii. p. 212.-In a ſecond voyage (November
1795) we anchored at Sigræum, which has a very commodious harbour formed by ſmall
iſlands in front. The whole north-weſtern coaſt abounds in fine bays, one of which was
certainly the ſite of Ereſus.
315
countrymen. About two years ſince he was appointed aghà of
Cyprus, where growing ſuddenly rich, he was threatened with de-
capitation, which he eſcaped by the mediation of Kara Oſman
Oglù, and the payment of many purſes of piaſtres. He is now re-
tired to his patrimony, to end his days by the courſe of nature, and
in ſecret
Near his houſe were the only columns we ſaw in the iſland,
which he aſſured us had belonged to a Greek church, and might
have been their laſt appropriation.
By the light of the moon we reached Acherona, as the Greeks
told us, near Methymnæ, and took up our abode in the deſolate mo-
naſtery of St. John the Baptiſt, whom they ſtyle “ the forerunner.'
Of Methymnæ nothing can be traced here. Some of the high
grounds are marked by large rude ſtones, occaſionally piled toge-
ther on the ſummits, but not as walls, which refers its true ſite to
Mollevàh.
Hiring freſh mules, we followed a route over heathy crags, and
C
Methymnæ was the ſecond city in the iſland, both in population and opulence.
Its territory was one of the moſt fruitful, particularly in wine. It was, according to ſome
authors, the birth-place of Theophraſtus, and of Arion, the ſucceſſor of Orpheus. When
the iſland revolted from the Athenians, Methymnæ alone preſerved its ancient fealty. The
remains of Orpheus are ſuppoſed by Ovid to have been carried there by the ſea.
1
Jamque mare invectæ flumen populare relinquunt,
“ Et Methymnææ potiuntur littore Leſbi."
Met. l. xi. V. 55.
Many coins of Methymnæ are extant, ſome very rare. Cellarius, v. ii. p. 10.
1
316
tracks impaffable by any other conveyance. Indiginous botany per-
haps flouriſhes in no climate fuperior to this iſland, particularly of
the mountain claſſes. Deep dells, or receſſes, ſome of them infinitely
romantic, with ſhallow rivulets having broad rocky beds, frequently
impeded our way before we came to Petra, a village, which owes its
name to a ſingularly ſhaped and inſulated rock, riſing from the ſhore
ſome hundred feet. It has ſome buildings on the top, acceſſible only
by hewn ſteps.
One hour beyond is Mollevàh, from whence we propoſed to em-
bark for Narla. In the centre of bare rocky mountains is one of a
remarkably regular cone, ſpreading at its baſe, with a caſtle on its
fummit; and the town cluſtered together very groteſquely on the
ſouth-weſt beneath it, falling to the ſea.
We here experienced the extortion and bad faith of the iſland
mariners, of which we made a complaint to the aghà, Mehmet Bey,
which remonftrance ended in a compromiſe, and we were glad to
accept the accommodations he offered us, for the night. His houſe
and furniture were extremely mean, and the only approach through
the ſtable. He ſeemed pleaſed to converſe with us concerning Eng-
liſh cuſtoms, particularly religion and women, and made ſome very
ſingular remarks on our information.
On the ſouth ſide of the hill are the foundations of the ancient
Methymnæ.
Several travellers have aſſerted, that, according to an ancient
Greek cuſtom, the eldeſt daughter inherits, to the excluſion of the
other children ; others modify it by ſaying that the daughters, if
317
there be no male iſſue, inherit alternately. At preſent, it is pre-
ſumed, both practices are obſolete and diſuſed; and at all times there
is a remedy in the Turkiſh law, to which any ſubject of the empire
may reſort, when he prefers its deciſion to thoſe of his own judica-
The reſident Turks in this iſland are more numerous in
portion than in any of the Archipelago.
ture.
pro-
The climate of this iſland has obtained from the ancients no
common degree of praiſe. Its effect on the productions of nature
are peculiarly genial. Hippocrates & commends it as very ſuperior;
and Demetrius of Phalera accounts for the ſingular degree of poetic
fame Mytelene has enjoyed, from its invigorating influence h.
L
Terpander, Alcæus, and Sappho, the former for his mechanic
improvement of the Grecian lyre, by the addition of three ſtrings to
As almoſt the only hereditary diſtinction, it may be worthy remark, that the Turks
give the title of bey, or lord, to the ſons of an aghà.
Iriſh Philoſophical Tranfalt, 1789, a florid memoir by Lord Charlemont. M. De
Guys, &c.
I inſpected a MS. in the Magliabecchi library at Forence, entitled “ Chriſtopheri de
Blondelmontibus Florentini liber de Inſulis Archipel." dated 1422, which is printed
amongſt Du Cange's collections. It is ornamented with very rude imaginary charts of the
ſeveral iſlands, and is written in the dry monaſtic ſtyle of the early centuries, noticing only
churches, fountains, and miracles. Of Leſbos he mentions, “ Huc Paulus Apoſtolus de
Syriâ veniens tempeftate maris vix ad terram evadit, qui prædicans fidem Chriſti anguem
maximum occidit & multos convertit.” “ Ad orientam occidentemque montes et indo-
mita animalia ſunt, una cum cypreſſis fagis pinetiſque, habet inſula circuitum cxxx milliar.'
Accounts of other iſlands are equally unintereſting.
& Hippocratis de Locis, v. ii. p. 346.-Jones's Eſay on the Poetry of the Eaſtern
Nations, p. 128.
h Gillies's Hift. of Greece, v. i. p. 261, 270.
318
four, and the others for inventing new rythms, and improving the
melody of former verſification, have immortalized their namesi.
The ſpirited rhapſodies of Alcæus are loſt to us. The exquiſite
poems of Sappho, her hymn to Venus, and that of fixteen lines to
Erinna, were reſcued from oblivion by Longinus and Dionyſius of
Halicarnaffus.
i Terpander flouriſhed about a century after Honer, and is ſaid, as well as of Leſbos,
to have been a native of Cymè in Æolia.
Sappho lived 610 years before Chriſt. She has found an ingenious apologiſt in
Madame Dacier. The two poems above mentioned, with her fragments, were firſt
printed “ Inter novem fæminarum Græcar. carmina græce curà Fulvii Urſini Plantin.
1598, 8vo. et Græce & Lat. potis varior. Chriſtoph. Wolfii," Hamburg, 1732, 4to. In
the “ Voyage d'Anacharſis,” Abbè Barthelemy has given a verſion of the “ Ode to Erinna"
by the elegant Abbé De Lille, ſuperior to that of Boileau, and which rivals that of Philips.
Spectator, Nº. 229. I do not draw compariſons, but add another, in Italian.
Felice! chi vicino a te ſoſpira,
Chi ſovra lui ſoltanto
Attrae queſti bei lumi
E queſti dolci accenti,
E'l tenero ſorriſo;
Ah! ch' egli è eguale ai numi !
Appena io te remiro, nel inio feno
Corre di vena in vena
Viviflima focilla,
E mentre, nel tumulto
Queſt' anima ſe perde,
Reſta ſenza favilla.
Piu non aſcolto-un vel ſu gli occhi è ſteſo
Vaneggia, e in dolce cado
Languor, dolce martiro,
E confuſa e ſmarrita
Senza reſpir intanto
Io tremo-io moro!!!
1
Pinkerton fon Coins, v. i. p. 249) mentions that the Leſbians excelled in female pro-
files on their coins, eſpecially of Sappho.
319
Horace firſt adapted the meaſures they had invented to the Roa
man muſe.
« Dic Latinum
" Barbite carmen,
« Leſbio primum modulate civi.”
Op. 1. i. 0. 32.
It is a matter curious, but not to be aſcertained, how far Horace
tranſlated, paraphraſed, or only imitated, the works of Alcæus and
Sappho, certainly exiſting at Rome in his time. It is to be wiſhed
that he had given us either a paraphraſe or tranſlation of the cele-
brated
morceau of Sappho. Catullus has failed, our own Ambroſe
Philips has been much more happy, and perhaps ſince equalled by
a living poet".
1
The ſoil is friendly to the vine? That ſo much eſteemed by
the Romans would preſerve its quality if the inhabitants were more
induſtrious in cultivation, and more careful in making and keeping
it. This defect is owing to the reſidence of the Turks, who are ſcan-
In the gallery of Verres, at Rome, was a moſt exquiſite ftatue in bronze, by Sila-
nion, brought from the Prytaneum in Sicily. The Abbè Fraguier (Acad. des Inſc.
t. vi. p. 570) obſerves, in praiſe of it, “ La Sappho de Verres étoit non une femme pal-
ſionnée, mais la paſſion en perſonne.” This commendation was founded on the Anthol.
..
1. iv. p. 507
Chares Mytelenius wrote a life of Alexander, a diffuſe work, in many books.
k Maſon's Poems, v. iii. p. 170.
1 As a proof of the luxuriance of the climate, D'Herbelot mentions a winged ſerpent,
called by the Turks “ ok ilàn," the arrow ſerpent, which are not uncommonly ſeen com-
bating in the air, but are perfectly harmleſs to men. He tells this ſtory ſo gravely, that
he certainly believed it. Biblioth. Orient. t. iv. p. 496.
320
dalized by the quantity taken to exceſs by the Greeks. The ancient
iſlanders mixed what was intended for exportation to Rome with ſea
brine, to render it finer and more fwcet? It was eſteemed the moſt
wholeſome of the Ægean wines m.
Innocentis pocula Leſbii.”
HOR. Od. 1. i. 0. 17, v. 21.
Leſbos has been the aſylum of the unfortunate. The wife of
Pompey, flying from Cæſar, was there hoſpitably received and
pro-
tected". Irene, the empreſs of Leo IV. in 802, baniſhed by the un-
grateful Nicephorus, who ſupplanted her, and denied her a ſuitable
maintenance, Hled to this iſland, and for ſome years earned the ſup-
port of the day by the labours of her diſtaff.
In 1452, the Greeks thinking the loſs of Conſtantinople inevitable,
eſcaped, with more prudence than bravery, in great numbers, to
Mytelene, and afterwards diſperſed themſelves in the Morea, and the
1 Mytelenæi, quod apud fe eſt dulce vinum Prodromum vocant, alii vero Protropum.
Mufonius de luxu Græc. Aulus Gellius, &c. The modern Greeks increaſe the ſtrength or
ſweetneſs of their wines by expoſing the grapes for many days in the fun, before they are
preſſed. All the “ Malvoiſie," or ſweet wine, is made with that proceſs. In leſs than
two years, if unadulterated, it acquires its greateſt maturity and perfection. They uſe
very large caſks.
m Athenai, 1. i. c. 23.
n
Lucan, in the ſpeech of Pompey,
Sævi cum Cæſaris iram
Jam ſcirem meritam, fervatâ conguge Leſbon.”
Pharſalia, 1. viii. v. 134, 5.
321
iſlands of the Archipelago. When all was loft, Leonardus Chienſis,
the familiar prieſt of the ill-fated but valiant Conſtantine Paleologus,
availed himſelf of this place of general refuge, and was made biſhop
of the fee. His account of the fiege, given as a journal, and written
on the occurrences of each day, is extremely intereſting º.
Strabo aſcertains the circumference of the iſland to be about a
hundred and ſixty miles, and the length ſeventy”; and Pliny enu-
merates eight cities, five only of which he deſcribes as being in a
flouriſhing ſtate.
Very anciently, the Leſbian women had a ſingular conteſt, that
for beauty, which was publicly adjudged, and the prize given in the
temple of Juno". Young men were choſen to decide.
• Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. xii. p. 188. Leonardi Chienſis Hiftoria Conſtantinopoleos
expugnatæ a Turco; firſt printed at Nuremberg in 1544, 4to. (20 leaves) compoſed Auguſt
15, 1453
P Strabo, l. xii. p. 616.
q “ Fuiffe quondam in hâc inſulâ urbes octo Plinius dicit, fed ex his Ariſben, Aga-
meden, Hierum, interiiſſe.” Ubb. Emm.
Leſbos produced wheat flour of the fineſt quality, much in requeſt at Rome.
* Leſbiâ farina, nive candidior.'
Horace.
The wool of Mytelene was a conſiderable article of commerce with the French
merchants at Smyrna in the lalt century.
r Apud Leſbios certainen pulchritudinis fæminarum agebatur in Junonis Fano, no-
menque iſti certamini erat Karaioteia. Schol. in Iliad. 1.
Tt
322
Pittacus, who was one of the ſeven whom Greece acknowledged
as ſages, and humanity as benefactors, was the legiſlator of Leſbos,
and the founder of its republic, which ſoon yielded to more power-
ful ſtates
In the fourth year of the Peloponneſian war, Leſbos, the city of
Mythymnæ cxcepted, revolted from the alliance of the Athenians,
but it was completely reduced in 427 before Chriſt, the following
year'. In the twenty-ſixth year of that war, Callicratidas, the Spartan,
beſieged Mytelene, but was totally defeated in a naval engagement
near the iſlands Arginuſæ, where he loſt his life". For ſome time it
continued tributary to the Athenians, but afterward, by choice, to
the Lacedæmonians *.
When it became ſubject to Rome, hiſtory is ſilent as to any me-
morable tranſaction. As a part of the empire divided between the
French and Venetians, it was taken from the latter by John Ducas
Vataces in 1230, and in 1332 by Andronicus Paleologus, after a fe-
cond conqueſt by them. Having been ceded by the emperor Kalo
Johannes to Domenico Cataluſi, a Genoeſe, for ſervices againſt his
father-in-law, John Cantacuzene; the Turks under Solyman I. took
it from Francis Catalufi, his deſcendant. Mytelene, the capital, was
• A buſt of Pittacus, certainly genuine, was lately diſcovered at the villa of Caffius,
at Tivoli, and now preſerved in the Vatican. “ IIITTAKOS. TPIA. MITIAHNAIOE.
ΚΑΙΡΟΝ ΓΝΩΘΙ."
t
Thucyd. l. iii. f. 174–207.
Xenophon. Hellen. I. i. p. 444,452. Diodorus Siculus, l. xiii. p. 198, 201, 217, 222.
* Gibbon, v. xi. p. 331. Knowles, v. i. p. 266 and 314.
1
323
beſieged by Urſato, a Venetian general, who was forced to raiſe the
fiege with the loſs of five thouſand men; and the French and Vene-
tians in 1502 inveſted it without effect.
It was the firſt iſland of the Archipelago of which the Turks had
gained the ſecure poſſeſſion; and their manners and cuſtoms have
pervaded the whole maſs of inhabitants y.
Our mariners being now more accommodating, we ſet ſail, but were
foon becalmed, having been fixteen hours on the water, and landed
at four in the morning in the bay of Adramyttium, near Cape
Baba, the ancient promontory of Lectum, about two miles from
Narla?
The Greek mariners are totally ignorant of the modern art of na-
vigation, nor have they any acquaintance with nautical inſtruments.
Long experience is the great qualification; and though ſuperſtitious
in the extreme, their obſervations on the various appearances of the
atmoſphere and the ſea, are ſufficiently accurate to ſupply the defi-
ciency of more certain principles, at leaſt within the ſcope of their
own knowledge. It may be queſtioned if they have learned more of
y In more modern times, Mytelene produced Khair' edden, or Barbaroſſa, the cele-
brated Corſair, afterward capudan paſha of Suleyman I. in the ſixteenth century. He
took the city of Tunis, and expelled the Venetians from the Morea. His great antagonitt,
Andrea Doria, the Genoeſe admiral, after various ſucceſs, was at length entirely defeated
by him. He died at Conſtantinople in 1544, and was buried at the village of Beſhic-tall,
on the Boſporus, where his turbèh, or fepulchral chapel, is ſtill ſhewn, with great vcnera-
tion, by the Turks.
z Hom. Iliad, 1. xiv. v. 320. Lectos or Lectum is the extreme promontory toward
the ſea of the extenſive chain of Ida, as theſe mountains are collectively called.
1
324
navigation from their Genoeſe or Venetian maſters than certain im-
provements in the form of their boats, and whether they have greatly
exceeded the Argonauts in maritime ſkill? The Turks, originally a
continental people, have borrowed all their navigation from their
Greek ſubjects.
We ſat round a fire till day-break, when we remounted our
horſes. This part of the ſhore is extremely luxuriant, the hills riſing
to the right, lofty, but gradual, a ſucceſſion of wooded banks with a
variety of ſhrubs. We followed a devious aſcent to Tchebnà, a Turk-
iſh village of ſuperior pleaſantneſs, for about two hours. Its mofque
and the flat-roofed houſes were grouped in a romantic manner half
way up the mountain, but high enough to command a noble proſpect
of the fea, admitted through ſide ſkreens of great grandeur, which
were enriched with the early autumnal tints under the temperature
of ſpring. We had not then gained above half the height of the
mountain, one of the roots of Ida, to the ſummit of which were
hanging vineyards and incloſures. About as far on the other ſide is
Scraklèi, a village from which is a view of ſtill more magnificent
parts, but not ſo pleaſing as a whole". They would both make
charming pictures. The road ſoon afterward becomes dull and
heathy, till we arrived at Evijèk, a poor village on the plain, where
we reſted in the khan. Paſſing through a valley of ferruginous earth,
much like Colebrook-dale, in Shropſhire, we came to Arijèk. The
whole vale of the Troad is expanded from this ſpot, with the Hel-
leſpont and both its ſhores, and the iſland of Tenedos.
When the Troad flouriſhed under the auſpices of the early Cæfars,
a Heraclea is one of the villages enumerated by Strabo as belonging to the Myte-
lenians, L. xiii.
325
and Demetrius of Scepſis could enumerate twenty cities within its
unextenſive confines, with their conſequent cultivation, imagination
can ſcarcely paint a ſcene of greater richneſs and variety than this
muſt have been. Even now, the component parts, the Ægean ſea,
the Helleſpont, and mount Ida, give it a ſuperior dignity.
We advanced to Iki-Stamboul, where we were received for the
night into a Turk's cottage, who accommodated travellers with great
civility.
During the whole tour we had no where obſerved extraneous
foſſils, till we arrived in the region of the Troad, where we found
maſſes of ſhelly concretions very common.
326
4
1
SECTION XXI.
.
ALEXANDRIA TROAS_DESCRIPTION OF ITS PRESENT STATE AND
ANCIENT HISTORY-DESTRUCTION BY THE GOTHS_REMOVAL
OF COLUMNS TO CONSTANTINOPLEHOT BATHS ATLIDGA
HAMAM-UDJEK TEPEE-CHIFTLIK OF HASSAN PASHA-TEM-
PLE OF APOLLO THIMBRÆUS-PROMONTORY AND CITY OF DAR-
DANUS-CHANAK KALESI
KALESI OR DARDANELLES-CASTLE AND
TOWN-TIIE CONSUL-HELLESPONT-EUROPEAN CASTLE OF
CHELIT BAWHRI-SESTOS-STORY OF HERO AND LEANDER-
ABYDOS-CYNOSSEMA, OR TOMB OF HECUBA-KOUM-KALESI-
LOWER CASTLE-SURVEY OF THE PLAIN OF TROYIANTÆUM
OR TOMB OF AJAXILIUM-HALYLELI-TURKISH WEDDING
TUMULI ROUND THE PLAIN OF TROYSITE OF AN ANCIENT
CITY.
In an hour we arrived at Alexandria Troas, originally Antigonia,
called by the Turks Eiki Stamboul, the whole ſite of which is now
a thick foreſt of the vallonea, or dwarf oak, peculiar to the Levant.
From the high ground the view of Tenedos, and of the ſea with
Udjèk Tepec, a vaſt tumulus above the plain of Troy, on the right
under the horizontal line, is particularly pleaſing.
Our reſearch commenced at a large ſubſtruction, with the baſe
and platform of a temple, called Killar Serai, which, allowing former
analogy, might have been dedicated to Diana. Of the ſtadium, the
form of the ground-plat only remains, covered with green fod. The
theatre, which was very large, is more diſtinct, as part of the portico
1
327
1
and ſubſtruction, and ſome of the ſubfellia niay be ſeen. The city
walls, near the ſea, are the more intire; indeed, the vallation is trace-
able for many miles circuit, with fragments a few feet high. . Amidſt
the woodland are innumerable heaps of rude foundations, but little
ornamental architecture, chiefly ſmall granite pillars. On the far-
ther eaſtern ſide on a conſiderable eminence, a bold arcade and lofty
ſurrounding ruins overtop the foreſt, which we found to have been
a ſuperb front, once faced with marble, of which the richly carved
cornice is not totally deſtroyed. The ſide walls and area of this
ſtructure, whatever was its deſtination, are on a very extenſive
ſcale.
The mariners (for it is conſpicuous at fea) call it Priam's palace *;
and well informed travellers are divided in opinion. Pococke and
Chandler thought theſe ruins had been the gymnaſium; and Cheva-
lier, with better reaſons, determines them to have been the public
baths, like thoſe of Titus and Caracalla at Rome. Theſe bare and
rugged walls convey no idea of their magnificence when in a perfect
ſtate; and we might as well judge of the ſymmetry and muſcular
beauty of the human figure from the inſpection of a ſkeleton.
The blocks of granite are weather-worn and decayed, and marble is
rarely feen; for moſt of the other ruins are ſmall and unconnected, ſo
that they will now afford more matter for conjecture, than ſatis-
faction, farther than thoſe outlines, which ſeldom vary from a ſpeci-
fic form.
Purſuing the road, without the walls, down the hill, ſeveral
vaults and broken farcophagi attracted our notice near Lidgì Ha-
mam, two ſmall hot baths. The ſource is incruſted with iron and
2 « Il Palazzo d' Ilione," Della Valle.
328
+
vitriol, having a ſtrong portion of marine ſalt. It is now open and un-
protected, but has great credit amongſt the villagers for its efficacy
in many caſes. The ſpring riſes juſt above the ſmall rivulet, which
it tinges with a deep yellow, particularly its banks; a circumſtance
that might have led Belon', in his univerſal miſapprehenſion of the
real ſite of Troy, to call it the Xanthus; and De la Valle, a ſucceed-
ing traveller, has fallen into, or adopted, the ſame crror.
Before we reached Lidgà Hamàm, we remarked at ſeveral miles
diſtance the vaſt ruin of the aqueduct of Atticus Herodes, ſtretching
acroſs a wide valley. So large a ſum as was expended on this ne-
ceſſary work by that munificent benefactor to the city, muſt have
been more than ſufficient for a ſingle ſtructure; it is therefore pro-
bable, that a canal was cut from the Scamander ſome miles diſtant,
and the ſtream conducted to it, part of which is ſtill to be traced.
The rivulet above mentioned was too much impregnated with mine-
ral for common purpoſes.
Such is the preſent ſtate of Alexandria Troas, which we collect
retained many features of taſte and magnificence; for ſuch it could
boaſt as a large Roman colony, even within theſe two centuries.
Belon, Sandys, and Pococke, deſcribe buildings of which not an
atom is left. The reaſons for fo complete demolition are evident,
even ſince the ruin effected by the third, and moſt fatal of the Go-
thic incurſions. From its vicinity to Conſtantinople, the fultans
were induced to ſearch for marble, and the largeſt and moſt fumptu-
ous columns, which adorn the ſuperb moſques of Selim and Suley-
man, were tranſported from hence ; probably not the firſt time of
b Belon, chap. vi. Paris 4to. 1588. Viaggi di Pietro Della Valle, 4to. 1650.
Sandys, p. 19. London, 1627.
329
their removal º. Pillars of vaſt diameter are ſaid by theſe travellers
to be lying near the beach, ready for exportation.
Mottrayed, whoſe veracity and accuracy are admirable, becauſe
very rare, viſited Alexandria at the beginning of this century. He
obſerved columns funk into the ground with capitals of various mar-
ble and incredible maſſiveneſs. Ciſterns with arcades, likewiſe a baſın
and mole toward the fea; pavement of ſtreets; gateways and arcas
of public places; a temple with a dome and Corinthian ornaments,
are all ſince that time irretrievably loſt. He ſays, that one of
the baths at Lidgà Hamam', was a ſmall antique building with a
dome and baſin of marble, now totally dilapidated. He ſpeaks of
the great frequency of the ſarcophagi near them; and obſerved in
one that had been opened, a quantity of lime, from whence he in-
fers a cuſtom of the Romans, after their converſion to Chriſtianity,
of burying whole families in theſe farcophagi with that proceſs.
The total diffolution (if ſuch an expreſſion be allowable) of the
remains of this magnificent city, was effected by Haſſan, Capudan
f
< Cantemir, n. p. 182. 214.
The marble in moſt frequent uſe amongſt the ancients, was granite. In Greece, and
in Rome likewiſe, columns of granite will be found in a proportion of fix to one more
than of Parian, of verd or jaune antique. They were more eaſily extracted from the
quarries in large maſſes, which is proved as well by the length of ſome columns as of obe-
liſks. We cannot however believe, that they were all fifty cubits long, as thoſe of the
temple at Cyzicus. Fifty feet is an uncommon length ; the largeſt in Rome are thoſe in
the baths of Diocleſian, now the church of S. Maria degli Angioli.
d T. i. p. 437
!
e Concerning the heat of theſe baths, Chandler obſerves, that in the ſmall ſtream at
the ſource, the thermometer roſe to 132 and 142; and Chevalier, that by Farenheit's it
varied from 82 to 113 in one, to 110 in the other. We had no opportunity of aſcertain-
ing it. Deſcription of the Plain of Troy, p. 7.
U u
330
Paſha in the laſt fultan's reign, during the Ruſſian war, who uſed
balls of marble, as an expedient for thoſe of iron, for the larger guns ;
and who iſſued a command, that all the marble which could be
found near the Dardanelles, ſhould be cut in pieces for that pur-
poſe.
Balls of marble were likewiſe uſed by Mohammed II. at the
fiege of Conſtantinople, ſo that Hafſàn Paſha has not the whole merit
of ſo barbarous an invention.
When Alexander reſolved to make his reign truly glorious by the
foundation of ſo many cities, he ſelected this ſpot, which has no ap-
parent advantages, excepting that of vicinity to the Hellefpont, to
have induced him to dignify it with his own name. The care of com-
pleting it he left to Lyſimachus, who diſcharged the truſt. But it
was not till the eleven Roman colonies f were eſtabliſhed in Aſia
Minor, that it became a city of ſuch opulence and extent. The
conſequent commercial privileges preſerved it from the preſent anni-
hilation, when rival cities, farther remote from the Helleſpont, had
ſunk into decay or oblivion.
The inhabitants originally addicted to the worſhip of Silenus s were
amongſt the carlieſt Chriſtians, and were honoured by the confirma-
tion of St. Paul, in perſon ".
f Strabo, 1. xiii. p. 593, “ Nux de xxi Pojowe ATTOIMIQY GE@ext&i, KXI EOTI TWY gadors
μων πολεων.”
Pliny, 1. vi. cap. 30.
& COL. AVG. TROAD. Rev. Silenus Stans dextrâ elatâ humero lævo utrcm hir-
cinum gerit. Hæc fpcctant ad cultum Sileni. Catal. Numiſm. Bodleian MS. Godwin.
h The journey of St. Paul particulariſed in the twentieth chapter of the Acts of the
Apoſtles, includes a principal part of this tour. At Troas he “ abode ſeven days,” and
raiſed Eutychus by a miracle to life.
- The cloke which I left at Troas.” 2 Tim. ch. iv. v. 13
中
​1
1
.܀
.
9
TEMPLE of APOLLO
Thymbraus
med , May 1797, by IDallaway.
331
In the progreſs, the country foon becomes lefs woody, and
ſpreads into wide heath, from whence the whole plain of Troy is
feen. The tomb of Æſyetes, according to Pococke, or, as it is now
called from the adjacent village, Udjèk Tepee, is a barrow of extra-
ordinary height and ſmooth ſurface, which is ſaid to have been
thrown up, even before the Trojan war, and was the ſtation from
whence Polites, the ſon of Priam, reconnoitred the Grecian camp
and the oppoſite iſland of Tenedos, with its harbour and promontory'.
We reſted during a tempeſtuous night, at a chiftlik, built by the
famous Haſſàn Paſha, where he had conveyed columns and a large
ſarcophagus from Alexandria “.
The firſt approach of winter we perceived on the ninth of No-
vember, as cold and ſtormy as that of the ſame date could be in
England. A little beyond, we paſſed the village of Thimbric-keuy
and a dilapidated moſque; with a cemetery full of parts of fluted
columns and cornices, ſet up as memorials, the probable ſite of the
temple and city ſacred to Apollo Thymbræus.
" Da propriam Thymbræe domum.” An. 1. 3. 584.
We had croſſed the Scamander and the Simoeis, the latter of
Iliad. I. ii. v. 792, et ſeq.
k ON A SARCOPHAGUS.
:: ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΣ. ΑΓΑΘΟΠΟΙΟΣ. ΟΘΟΝΙΑΚΟΣ. ΥΙΟΣ. ΔΕ. ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΥ.
ΠΑΥΛΕΙΝΟΥ. ΤΟΥ ΚΑΙ. ΓΕΝΟΜΕΝΟΥ. ΠΑΝΚΡΑΤΙΑΣΤΟΥ. ΤΟΥ.
:KAI. EN. T. &MINOEIN. ESTIKEN. ANAPIAL. KAI. ENOAAE. EN. TQ
ΑΣΚΛΗΠΕΙΩ. ΕΘΗΚΑ ΤΗΝ. ΣΟΡΟΝ. ΕΜΑΥΤΩ. ΚΑΙ. ΤΩ. ΓΛΥΚΥΤΑΤΩ.
ΠΑΤΡΙ. ΠΡΟΓΕΓΡΑΜΕΝΩ. ΑΥΡΕΛΙΩ. ΠΑΥΛΕΙΝΩ. ΚΛΙ. ΤΟΙΣ. ΕΚ. ΤΩΝ.
TENOTEMOT. EI. AE TIS. TOAMHESIEN. (avoiçaogai) THN. COPON. KAL. NE
ΚΡΟΝ. ΑΛΛΟΤΡΙΟΝ Η. ΟΣΤΕΛ. ΤΙΝΟΣ. ΕΝΚΑΤΑΘΕΣΘΑΙ. ΔΟΣΕΙ. ΠΡΟΣ. ΓΕΝ. (ες)
ΜΟΥ. ΤΗ. ΤΡΩΑΔΕΩΝ ΠΟΛΕΙ. ΚΛΙ. ΤΩ. ΙΕΡΩΤΑΤΩ. ΤΑΜΕΙΩΙ χβρο.
2 A fine of 2050 denarii.
332
which the rains had increaſed to a conſiderable river; the bed being
from forty to fifty yards wide, but uſually almoſt bare, and dried up
in the midſt of ſummer. At three hours farther, we deſcended to the
ſca ſhore, and wound round ſeveral bays, having thoſe on the Euro-
pean ſide of the Helleſpont in ſight. In one of theſe under the
Dardanian promontory, now Kara boroun or Cape Berbier, was the
city of Dardanus', of which the minuteſt veſtige would be fought
in vain m Arriving at the Aſiatic caſtle ", known by the Turks as
Chanak kaleſi, and by Europeans as the Dardanelles, we experienced
for ſeveral days the ſingular hoſpitality of the Engliſh conſul, Iſrael
Taragano, a Jew, in whoſe family the office has been veſted for
more than a century. His houſe was truly patriarchal, and contain-
cd four married couples with five generations under the ſame roof,
through whom the ſame countenance is tranſmitted with ſtriking
reſemblance, eſpecially of females. Upon entering the town, we
croſſed a long wooden bridge over the ſwollen river Rhodius, the
very exiſtence of which is denied by Plinyº.
1 Strabo, 1. xiii. p. 598.
m Strabo, 1. xiii. Seventy Stadia from Abydos, near which Cornelius Sylla, the Ro-
man general, and Mithridates Eupator, met to conclude a treaty of peace.
In Coll. Ainſleian, are enumerated coins of the middle ſeries of Roman emperors,
tom. jii. p. 135. Pinkerton on Coins, v. ii. p. 212, mentions a ſcarce coin of Dardanus.
Their device was a horſe running. Reverſe a fighting cock, “ AAPA.” Dicit Jul. Pol-
lux, 1. ix. No. 84. « Δαρδανεις αλεκτρυονων μαχην τω νομισματι ενεχαρωττον.” Vide
Haym, v. i. p. 233, “ Forſan Gallorum pugna ad Romanos derivata ab hac gente origi-
nem ſuam duxit.” Catal. Numiſm. Bodleian. MS. Godwin.
Belon, l. ii. c. 3, ſuppoſed the Turkiſh additions to have been made from the
ruins of Scamandria, a city about a league from the fea.
• Cæteri Homero celebrati, Rheſus, Rhodius, &c. veſtigium non habent. Plin.
1. vi. c. 30.
333
Chanak kaleſi contains two thouſand houſes on the worſt Turkiſh
model. We furveyed the caſtle, the citadel or keep of which is of the
lower Greek age; the outworks are comparatively modern, and, it is
reported, built at the expence of a ſultana. The battlements are in-
curvated on the outſide. There is a ſmall park of uſeleſs artillery,
excepting that taken from the Germans; ſome are of an enormous
calibre, and have heaps of marble balls piled near them, each two
feet in diameter. The guns are painted green. Here is a manufac-
ture of coarſe pottery, rudely painted and gilded, to which circum-
ſtance it owes the name of Chanak. The oppoſite caſtle, Chelit
bawri, with an adjoining town, is much ſmaller, and ſome furlongs
above it is Maita, contiguous to the ſite of the ancient Seſtos P.
The well told fory of Hero and Leander is too generally known
to be repeated, and owes all its fame to the beautiful poems of
Ovid and Muſæus 9.
P Alexander halted at Seſos after twenty days march, and tranſported his army in
160 gallies to Abydos. Arrian. p. 12.
4 Ovid. Heroid. Epift. Amor. 1. ii. 16. 31. Trift. I. iii. 10. 41. Virg. Georgic. l. iii.
258. Lucan Pharfal. 1. ix. 953. Statius Thebaid, l. vi. 545.
“ Parcite dum propero, mergite dum redeo.”
Martial. Epig. xxv.
This poem of Muſæus was eſteemed by Julius Cæfar Scaliger as genuine, but his
ſon Joſeph Scaliger, a more critical Greek ſcholar, peremptorily denied its authenticity,
conſidering it as a Byzantine forgery. Scaligerana.
1
Σηστος εην και Αβυδος εναντιον. εγγυθι ποντα
Γειτονες εισι ποληες. Ερως δ'ανα τοξα τιταινων
Αμφοτερης πολιεσσιν ενα ξυνεηκεν οιστον
Ηιθεον φλεζας και παρθενον. ουνομα δ'αυτων
Ιμεροεις τε Λεανδρος εης και παρθενος Ηρω.”
“ Where old Abydos frowned upon the flood,
“ The towers oppoſed of lofty Seltos ſtood,
1
334
The diſtance of the oppoſite ſhores does not abſolutely deſtroy the
poſſibility of Leander's enterprize, for it does not exceed a mile,
which is much within the ability of modern ſwimmers, with an
inferior inducement, but the roughneſs of the current muſt have been
formidable at all times.
Seſtos was taken by the Athenians 479 years before the Chriſtian
era; a proof of its antiquity and conſequence as a city.
We took a boat up the Helleſpont, about three miles to a jutting
point, a little beyond the village of Nagara, upon which the city of
Abydos once ſtood; but, in fact, its very ſite is now obliterated by
the plough, or covered with vines. Nothing archectural is to be
ſeen, but the ſurface of the ploughed field is ſtrewn with pottery, a
circumſtance invariably frequent in thoſe we had already traced.
Near this ſpot are the narroweſt ſtraits. Abydos was founded by
the Mileſians, who poſſeſſed it many years.
“ The neighbouring walls on either ſhore aroſe,
" Where Helleſpont's impetuous current flows,
" But love, who ſcorns the ocean's power to part,
“ Through the two cities fent one forceful dart,
" A youthful pair he ſtruck, that own'd his flanie
“ And gained two victims with a ſingle aim,
" Lcander's beauties were Abydos' boaſt,
6 And Hero's charms gave grace to Seſtos' coaſt."
Muſeus," The Loves of Hero and Leander, by Groſvenor Charles Bedford, Efa.
4to. London 1797
An equally elegant tranſlation into Italian of the poem of Muſaus, with annotations
replete, with ingenious criticiſm by F. Mazzarella Farao, was publiſhed at Naples, 8vo.
1787.
Abydos was founded by the Mileſians, with permiſſion of Gyges, king of Lydia,
to whom they were then ſubject.
" Abos de Mixq6WY EOTI XTIOU.." Strabo, l. xiii. p. 591.
Coins of both cities are extant, ſtruck during the Roman empirc.
335
The flect of the Athenians was deſtroyed by Lyſander, from
Lampſacus, at the battle of Ægos Potamos, where they were
ſtationed, who thereby loſt the empire of the ſea, which they had
held for more than ſeventy years, in the fifth century before Chriſt.
Abydos is famous for a brave defence by Dercyllidas, ant. C. 387.
Knowles ſpeaks of the caſtle of Abydos, as exiſting in the reign of
Orchan, and taken by Abdul achman, his general ; meaning proba-
bly that of the Dardanelles Ⓡ.
1
Returning, we noticed a mound of carth above Chelit ul
Bawr, the name of the European caſtle, thrown up on the extremity
of a conical hill, which is conſidered by geographers as the Cynoſſema
or tomb of Hecuba, anſwering to their deſcription, as directly facing
the embouchure of the Rhodius. This coaſt has a much more ele-
gant outline than the other, with ſwelling knowls cloſely wooded,
and dells, which retire in a winding direction behind a ridge, com-
poſed chiefly of indurated fand, and frequently as perpendicular as a
wall. The roots of mount Ida ſpread almoſt to the Aſiatic ſhore
with ſpacious vineyards; a foreſt occupies the centre, and the nume-
rous ſummits finiſh the whole with great grandeur.
។
In an hour and a half, after a pleaſant fail, we came in ſight of
the lower caſtles, much inferior to the others, but improved by Ba-
ron de Tott, who erected the batteries on the neighbouring rocks,
which are ſo inſignificant that no one but himſelf would praiſe them.
We landed at Koum Kaleh (ſand caſtle), to which is attached a ſmall
village. The form of the caſtle is merely a ſquare of embattled
walls, with courſes of arch-ways for heavy ordnance pointed from two
ſides towards the fea.
s Knowles, v. i. p. 157.
336
It was erected by Sultan Suleyman II. in 1659.
The diſtance from the Grecian camp to the ſite of Troy, has
ſupplied thoſe who contend againſt its exiſtence with many plauſible
objections. It is, however, certain that the preſent village of Koum
kaleh, is ſituate on a fand bank of more than a mile in extent, which
will reduce the diſtance, ſuppoſing it to be an accretion from the
Helleſpont", to leſs than eight Engliſh miles from Bounàr baſhi,
where the Scæan gate once ſtood. The advanced works both of
Greeks and Trojans leſſened the intermediate ſpace. If the Grecian
camp was between the ſhore and the junction of the Simoeis and
Scamander, then known only by the latter name, the united river
will anſwer to all the cpithets given to it by Homer" .
i Pococke, v. ii. p. 105.
+ The entrance into the great plain is formed by the Sigean promontory, and that
called Rhæteum, about four Engliſh miles aſunder, through which the two rivers Simoeis
and Scamander at length took an united courſe. Between theſe promontories the Gre-
cian fleet was drawn up. on dry ground, and probably remained ſo during the whole war.
(I. v. 382.) The firſt ſhips were advanced to ſome diſtance from the ſea, and others ar-
ranged in ſeveral diviſions (E. v. 30. E. v. 75) all on the dry ground, for the following
circumſtances will evince that the ſtrand was left unoccupied. There was room enough
for the councils of the chiefs between the ſhips (B. v. 53), but when the whole army was
convened, their aſſemblies were held on the ſtrand (B. v. 92). Achilles is ſaid to fit on
the ſtrand far from all his friends (B. v. 549), and the Myrmidons exerciſed themſelves
there at quoits and other athletic games. There were likewiſe altars and a court of juf-
tice (H. v. 249. A. v. 806). The ſhips of Agamemnon were near the ſea (I. v. 43)
of Ajax, at one extremity of the camp, and of Achilles at the other, but thoſe of Ulyſſes
were ſtationed in the middle (@. v. 225 and 1. v. 5). The outermoſt line (by which
the moſt inland is meant) was compoſed of ſhips, and others with tents were intermixed
in regular order behind it, if thus much may be gathered from the word “ apoxpooras”
(A. V. 35). It is evident that the ſhips were intermixed with the tents, and the practice
of drawing their veſſels afhore is univerſal amongſt the modern Greeks. Each ſhip is
ſtated to have contained a hundred men, nor can it be objected, that veſſels ſufficiently
Mountains of Ida!
Erin- keuy
Thymbrius
fff..
debatt
Atche-keuy
so
22
Iledor
M.A
Troy
and the entertain
Lach
Thinbric-keur
Chibluk
Bounar-bashi
The
Scæan Gate
tara.
Triple
Callicolonne
of
Ipollo
Hot Spring
Cold Spring
R]wteam
In-tepe
sinioeis
ht
Plain of Troy
ABER
HELLESPONT
Karanlik
Linian
Wdrafs while
jöille
Palus Stoma
Ilium
Ancient Bed
WTH VILIVE
Koum Kaleh
Peneleus
L'djek-tepe
மாறும் போதை
i Pasha Chiflhk
de Toit
1. Alexandria Troas
** Yeni-chert
Canal
1219
Achilles
Ask
Sügaam
Intilochus
Patroclus
VoBeshie-tepe
ÆGÆAN SEA
SKETCH of the GEOGRAPHY of the TROAD.
"
Scamander
1
}
1
}
1
337
.
We began our ſurvey of the plain of Troy. Croſſing the Simoeis
over a long wooded bridge near its embouchure, we paſſed over an
extenſive level of ploughed fields, and Goulù-ſui, a brook which
empties itſelf into the ſea near In-tepè, or the tomb of Ajax Telamo-
nius *. This tumulus is now irregularly ſhaped. Near the top is a
capacious for ſuch a number were not removable to a conſiderable diſtance on the ſands.
Every port in Greece affords ſufficient proof of this practice, to which Virgil alludes,
Jamque fere ficco ſubductæ littore puppes.
Æn. iii. v. 135.
Achilles ſtanding on the prow of the ſhip, calls to Patroclus in his tent (1. v. 328.
487. 602. and I. v. 185).
The tents of each chief adjoined his ſhips, as did thoſe of Neſtor and Achilles
(K. v. 74. and A. v. 602). By attending to this ſtrange intermixture of ſhips and tents,
a competently juſt idea of the Græcian camp will be formed, as it was divided regularly into
roads or ſtreets. This diſpoſition of an army, adopted from primæval times by nations of
the eaſt, is ſtill made by the Turks.
The diſtance of the moſt advanced rank of ſhips from the ſea is not mentioned; per-
haps, we might not be far from the truth in ſuppoſing it half a mile, and a quarter of a
mile farther from thence to the ſea: Allowing the firſt circumſtance of the accretion at
Kounikaleh, and the Græcian camp having been advanced into the plain, the diſtance
from Troy is perfectly reconcileable with every incident mentioned by Homer. It is
likewiſe evident from the circumſtances of the war. Had the city been very near, the
firſt work of the Gràcians muſt have been a ſtrong fortification to prevent ſudden attacks ;
without it their deſtruction muſt be inevitable. Beſides, there had not been a theatre
large enough for the actions of the war. The purſuit of the Trojans by Achilles fixes
the ſituation of the Græcian camp between the confluence of the rivers and Sigæum, for
they retreat over the Scamander to gain Troy, and he kills many of them in the
river.
x Wood miſtakes Cape Berbier for the Rhætean promontory, which Strabo inakes to
be 60 ftadia, Solinus 46, and Pliny 30, from the Sigean; the latter is the true diſtance.
In Sigeo fuit Aiantæum Rhodii conditum in altero cornu, Ajace ibi ſepulto, xxx.
ſtadiorum intervallo a Sigæo, et ipfà in ſtatione claſſis ſuæ. Plin. Hiſt. Nat. I. vi. c. xxx.
The city of Sigæum covered the ſhore between the tumulus and a bay in which I an-
chored for a week (November 1795), and re-ſurveyed the whole with attention.
.
X X
338
ſmall arched way
almoft choaked
up
with earth, which was the en-
trance into the vault, and over it a broken wall, where was once a
ſmall fepulchral fane, called the Aiantềum. The whole ſeems to be
of a much more modern date than the death of Ajax. Marc An-
tony removed his urn and aſhes into Ægypt, which were afterward
reſtored with funeral honours by Auguſtus, when it is probable that
the preſent vault was made, and the ſuperſtructure erected. This
compliment was paid to his manes to gratify the Ilian citizens, who
conſidered him as their tutelar. The city of Ilium Y was about two
miles diſtant, near the junction of the Scamander and Simoeis, and
owed its origin to Alexander and Lyſimachus, who repaired the tem-
ple of Minerva, and ſurrounded it with a wall. It is not improbable
that when Alexander was enthuſiaſtically inveſtigating the ſite of an-
cient Troy, that the prieſts of Minerva ſhould attach, from policy, to
him this ſpot for the foundation of a city which had likewiſe ſuperior
maritime advantages. Mænætus?, governor of Ilium, went out to
meet Alexander in his Perſic expedition, and preſented him with a
golden crown. It was firſt taken by Charidemus Orites; and ſubſe-
quently beſieged by Fimbria, the general engaged in the cauſe of Ma-
rius, and levelled with the ground; this injury was afterward ſevere-
ly revenged by Sylla. They enjoyed the patronage of Julius Cæſar.
It excites no wonder, that after ſo long poſſeſſion of it by the Turks, not
y “ Ac mille quingentis paſſibus remotum a portu, Ilium, immune, unde omnium
rerum claritas.” Id.
Julius Cefar truck a coin with the legend, ΙΛΙΕΩΝ ΔΙΣ ΝΕΩΚΟΡΩΝ.
Imperial coins of Ilium, M. Aurelius, Antoninus, and Commodus, &KAMANAPOE
IAINN; reverſe a river god with a reed and urn. Minerva and Hector, EKTNP. IAIESN.
Coll. Ainſ.
Auguſtus was ambitious of being conſidered as a deſcendant of Æneas, and patroniſed
all the cities of the Troad. Virgil wrote his Æneid to flatter him, and Propertius in many
of his Elegies, has alluſions to Troy, not much connected with his ſubject.
z Arrian Exped. Alcx. l. i. p. 25.
* Strabo, 1. xiii. p. 887.
.
***
HELLESPONT,
from the Tomb of Ajax,
{
i
339
a ſtone ſhould remain, yet fome contend againſt the exiſtence of Troy,
becauſe no veſtiges were diſcoverable when Alexander b founded the
fecond city, whilſt they admit the latter fact equally unauthoriſed by
preſent appearances.
From this ſpot we had' a moſt intereſting proſpect independent of
its local hiſtory; the magic of which, and its effects on the mind,
are beautifully deſcribed by Lucan. The left ſkreen is a low ridge
of hills; the middle diſtance is the great area, upon which the Greeks
were encamped'; beyond was the ſcene of many of the great events of
the war; and the offskip and ſkirting line were compoſed of the
promontory of Tenedos, Beſhiktepè, Sigèum, the village of Koum-
kaleh, down to the water edge, and a broad winding reach of the
Hellefpont, into which the oppoſite headland. and caſtle are brought
forward with confiderable effect. The ſea then ſpreads very widely,
and the view is cloſed by the blue mountains of Imbros d. The
length and extent of this iſland have been extremely miſtaken, as
ſcarcely a map is extant which deſcribes it above half its real ſize.
We rode about half an hour over heathy ground, much elevated, to
Halyleli, near the village of Thimbrìk-keuy.“, and at the inſtant of our
o Gibbon (R. H. v. iii. p. 10) remarks, that Wood (Obſerv. on the Troad, p. 140,
141), without conſulting the Roman itineraries; has confounded Ilium with Alexandria,
though ſixteen miles from each other. He gives a view of the remains of the Gymna-
ſium or baths, which he vaguely calls, “ Ancient ruins ſuppoſed to be the work of Alex-
ander or Lyſimachus." Dr. Pococke has a plan and'reſtoration of them.
C
Pharſal. l. ix. v. 64, et ſeq.
d
“Where rocky Imbros breaks the rolling wave.
Pope's. Tranſ. II. b. xiii. 50.
e INSCRIPTION. FOUND AT THYMBRIA.
HAT TANE AT
(E) EE. TON. IOYNION. 0 (17.04%)
1
+
340
paſſing, a Turkiſh wedding was celebrating among the villagers; the
buſineſs is fummary. The parents of both parties, or the bridegroom
for himſelf, ſettle the contract, which implies what dower he ſhall
give the bride. This arrangement made, the bridegroom aſſembles
his friends; they mount horſes, and are accompanied by muſic, ſuch
as a very
rude hautboy, or pipe, and a drum, can make. The bride
is demanded, and has likewiſe a cavalcade of her female relatives,
when they return home animated with the ſame muſicf. They feaſt
ſeparately on pilav, and retire at an early hour, when the ceremony
is concluded.
The ſucceſſion of five tumuli, under the diſtant horizon, tends
more than any other proof to aſcertain the Trojan war. About an
hour and a half from Bournàbaſhi, on an eaſy eminence facing the
weſt, we diſcovered veſtiges of an ancient city. On the right are
TON KOSMON THE. II (one)
ΩΣ. ΕΠΑΡΚΟΝ. ΣΠΕΙΡΗΣ.
ΑΒΙΑΝΗΣ. ΓΥΜΝΛΣΙ ΑΡ.
(X) HEANTA. AAMIIPOS. KAI. DIA
ΩΤΙΜΩΣ. ΚΑΙ ΠΡΩΤΟΝ
ONTĄ: IIAIANOS. KAI.
MEXPI. NYN. MONON, EINAI.
TON. METPIASANTA. TOTS
TE BOTAEYTAE KAI IIO
ΛΕΙΤΑΣ ΠΑΝΤΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΑΛ
(A) YANTA EKAOTTEPON
(ΠΑΝ). ΔΗΜΕΙ.
The mutilated and frequently unintelligible ſtate of ancient inſcriptions may be well
expreſſed in the words of Plautus, “Quas, præter Sibyllam, legat nemo, nam divinan-
dum eft.” Vide Fleetwood Ep. Ded. ad Inſcript. Antiq. Syllog.
f« Tibiaque effudit ſocialia carmina.”
Ovid Triſt.
:
;
:
::
TERMINAREN
PLAIN of TROY,
abone Bounarbasbi.
Briliantes bailey
341
ſtanding ſeven granite pillars ſeveral feet high, but it rather appears
that they are not placed in their original order. On the other ſide,
we ſaw a ſmall block of marble with an inſcription, a few inches
above the ground, which being dug up, we found to be of the date of
the Roman emperors, and too much mutilated to be decyphered
ſatisfactorily.
From the detail of topographical notices given by Homer, and
from a compariſon of the circumſtances he mentions, the ſtrongeſt
aſſurance will follow not only of the exiſtence, but the locality of Troy.
To inſiſt that the poem ſhould be hiſtorically exact, would be to
make no allowance for the liberty of a poet. That it is topographi-
cally ſo, an examination of the preſent face of the country will am-
ply prove, and it is equally an object of claſſical curioſity, whether
Troy exiſted or not, ſince the fable, if ſuch it muſt be, is invariably
accommodated to the ſcene of action.
With reſpectful deference to a name ſo long eſteemed in the republic
of letters as that of Mr. Bryant, I humbly but totally difſent from his
ſcepticiſm on this ſubjects. For it is not to the taſteleſs ſyſtem of
Le Boſſu in his Eſſay on the Epic, who has preceded Mr. Bryant
in a ſimilar hypotheſis, that the opinion of many ages, and the fatif-
faction of occular inſpection, can be readily conceded. To eſtabliſh
& Obſervations upon a treatiſe entitled, “ A Deſcription of the Plain of Troy, by
Monſicur le Chevalier," by Jacob Bryant, 4to. 1795; of which the following is the con-
cluding paffage. “ I look on theſe poems of Homer to be mere fables. I ain perſuaded
that no ſuch war as has been repreſented, was carried on againſt Troy, nor do I be-
lieve that the Phrygian city ever exiſted. For this I could bring very cogent proof,
ſhould ſuch a diſquiſition be at all acceptable to the world.” This threat has been ſince
executed in a quarto volume, containing “ A Diſſertation concerning the War of Troy
and the Expedition of the Græcians, as deſcribed by Homer, flewing that noʻſuch expe-
dition was ever undertaken, and that no ſuch city of Phrygia ever exiſted."
342
a conviction on the mind, that the tale of Troy divine is a mere
invention, may require yet more than the moſt laborious learning
can lend to conjecture, and could it avail, we might loſe in the plea-
ſures of the imagination, as much as we ſhould gain by truth,
could his arguments eſtablith it, and lament with the enthuſiaſt in
Horace,
- demptus per vim mentis gratiſſimus error.
343
SECTION XXII.
APPROACH TO THE VILLAGE OF BOUNAR-BASHITHE AGIA
HADJI MEHMET EXAMINATION OF THE SITE OF TROY -
SCEAN GATE-HOMERIC GEOGRAPHY HOT SOURCE OF THE
$CAMANDER - TUMULI - PROSPECT FROM
- PROSPECT FROM THE CITADEL
HYPOTHESES OF M. CHEVALIER AND MR. BRYANTYENICHEYR,
OR SIGÆUMMR. Wood'S OPINION COMBATED RESPECTING
THE TRUE SITE OF TROY-SIGÆAN INSCRIPTION AND BAS RE-
LIEF-TOMBS OF ANTILOCHUS, A CHILLES, AND PATROCLUS
OPENING OF THE TOMB OF ACHILLES BY COMPTE CHOISEUL
GOUFFIER IN 1787--EXTRACT FROM M. CHEVALIER-OBSER-
VATION UPON IT LETTER RESPECTING THE REAL DISCOVERY
AT YENICHEYR--CEREMONY OF AGREEK ESPOUSAL_DRESS
OF THE VILLAGERS--GEOGRAPHY OF THE TROAD-CITIES
DEMETRIUS OF SCEPSIS-CONSTANTINE'S NEW CITY.
As the ſetting fun was more brilliant than for many days paſt, the
village of Bounàr-baſhi opened upon us very pleaſantly from the ford
of the Simoeisa, which we paſſed within a furlong of the chiftlik of
Hadji Mehmet Aghà, the preſent proprietor of a domain producing
near 5000l. ſterling per annum, and including little leſs ſpace, and
the identical ground of the kingdom of old Priamb. His houſe is
a D'Anville has departed from his uſual accuracy in his geography of the Troad;
the courſes of rivers, the names and ſites of the ancient cities, and even the poſition of
the Rhætean and Sigean promontories, have been equally miſrepreſented by him.
6 M. Le Chevalier is miſtaken in ſtating (p. 117) that the dominion of the preſent agha
1
344
mean, but many columns were diſperſed about it, which had been
collected from the ſites of adjacent cities.
From the village the hill riſes rapidly, and ſoon becomes an in-
ſulated mountain. In the front of the houſe, at a ſmall diſtance, is
the firſt fource of the Scamander, which is ſaid, by M. Chevalier, to
be the hot ſpring, upon which he grounds the ſtrongeſt proof of his
hypotheſis reſpecting the locality of the city of Troy. It is at leaſt
tepid; and the agha told us, that in the winter months, eſpe-
cially during froſt, it was hot, and ſmoked. Homer muſt be allowed
the privilege of a hot ſpring, and a river full to the brink, if they
happen once within the year. The lofty wall of Troy and the Scæan
gate interfected the modern village of Burnà-baſhi.
Aſcending the hill, thickly ſtrewn with looſe ſtones for the ſpace
of a mile, the firſt object on the brow is a ftony hillock, which Che-
is poſterior to that of King Priam 4000 years. By the computation of Petaut, which is
the moſt extravagant, Priam began to reign 1249 years before Chriſt, conſequently from
that time to the preſent year are only 3046 years. Squire's Ancient Greek Chronology,
p. I 20.
• Homer notices the Scæan gate ſo peculiarly, that doubts have ariſen if there were
more than one. That there were others, we learn from B. v. 809, 0. v. 57, and once the
Dardan gate occurs, but whether it be the ſame with the Scæan, is uncertain. Be that as
it may, Dydimus has every appearance of truth when he decides (B. v. 809) that the
Scæan was the only carriage way. It fronted the plain, and commanded the view to the
extreme point. The wall was fortified with towers having ewangels, uſually tranſlated
“ battlements,” but certainly not analogous to thoſe of Gothic invention; and if they
did not form apertures like modern embraſures, it may be difficult to determine what they
werc. Upon a collation of the paſſages in which we find the word, it ſeems probable
that an swangis was a part of the wall fomewhat higher than the reſt, projecting as a
baſtion towards the enemy, yet diſtinguiſhed from towers; or may it be the bracketted
tops of them?
1
I
4
f
24
os
PLAIN of TROY,
from the Tomb of Hector.
Published = May 2797 by Dallaway
345
valier, with no apparent reaſon, calls the tomb of Hector d. It has
been opened and examined, but we could not learn the reſult.
There are others covered with graſs, appropriated likewiſe to Trojan
herocs. Upon this area and the intermediate ground from the village,
there is undoubtedly ſpace enough for ſuch a city as Troy is deſcribed
to have been. The level falls abruptly on the ſouth, with a precipitate
cliff, into a very deep ravine, forming a mural rock as compact and
regular as the remaining walls of Conſtantinople, now almoſt covered
at its baſe by the ſtream and ſands of the Simoeis, for the length of
forty or fifty yards, and completing a fortification, rendered impreg-
nable by nature, which will account for a ten years ſiege, and the
ſuperlative epithet of walls conſtructed by the gods themſelves.
d“The hiſtory of theſe tumuli is precarious, and has been determined at random by
the latter inhabitants of the country; for theſe mounds of earth were ancient Thracian
barrows, founded prior to the era of Troy, but appropriated by Greeks to people of their
own nation.” Bryant, p. 40, 41.
Ammianus Marcellinus, mentioning the voyage of the emperor Julian through the
Afiatic provinces, obſerves, “ Contrà per Achillis Ajaciſque fepulchra Dardanum contigit
et Abydon,” l. xxii. c. 8. Alexander thought them genuine, and the Mytelenians
before him.
Phryx incola manes
- Hectoreos calcare vetat-
“ Hectoreas, monſtrator ait, non reſpicis aras ?
“O ſacer, et magnus vatum labor ! omnia fato
“ Eripis, et populis donas mortalibus ævum.”
Lucan Pharſ. 1. ix. v. 979.
• The moſt elevated ground on the edge of a precipice was the Acropolis, otherwiſe
called Pergamus (A. v. 507, E. 460, and 2. v. 700). Upon this ſtood a temple facred
to Jupiter, another to Pallas, and a third to Apollo (2. v. 257, 88, E. v. 446). Here
was the reſidence of Priam and his royal progeny (Z. v. 317, H. v. 345), but it is not
clear that the palace was ſeparated from the reſt of the city by a wall. Ilion, or Pergamus, was
lofty enough to be called "windy” (paffim), yet it was lower thau Pergamus (2. v. 700!
Υ Υ
346
Mr. Wood diſcovered no placc, amongſt Ida, correſpondent to that
deſcription; and Mr. Bryant would ſeek for it (did he purpoſe an
actual inſpection) only in his favourite Egypt. This diviſion of
rifted rock from the groupe of foreſt mountains, of which Ida is
compoſed on the caſt and north ſides, does not exceed a hundred and
fifty yards, and is ſcarcely farther afunder at the top, ſinking as per-
pendicularly as an artificial channel. The face of the ground ex-
hibits nothing worthy remark; buſhes and huge unhcwn ſtones only
are to be ſeen. The whole view of the plain of Troy, from the
height ſaid to have been the citadel, is of uninterrupted extent, with
the winding Simoeis, and the grand horizontal line marked by Udjek
Tepee and the Sigean promontory, and turning to the left, by the two
ſo that it is once ſaid to be in the plain, “ EY WE IDIO" (N. v. 216), as ſtanding at the head
of the plain on an eaſier acclivity, and being lower than the mountains of Ida. It is, not-
withſtanding, incontrovertible, that Troy ſtood on the aſcent (2. v. 74, S. 329); and
the “ epiveol,” which was without the town, has the ſame epithet “ windy” (X. v. 145),
from its unfheltered ſituation. The wall extended only in the front of the plain, the na-
tural fortification of cliffs above the Simois rendering its continuance unneceſſary. Mr.
Bryant lays much ſtreſs on the expreſſion “xy Wed1010,” which might have been uſed com-
paratively, and in contradiſtinction to higher acclivities, and not poſitively. He contends
likewiſe that Apooulos ſhould be tranſlated “ a forelt," upon which he inſiſts, from the cir-
cumſtance of the Trojans lighting nightly fires. The prefent face of the country, on the
left hand of the great plain, now abounding in thickets and buſhes, might have been once
covered with foreſt trees, and will authenticate, inſtead of invalidating, M. Chevalier's
topography.
All Homer's epithets ſhow that Troy was conſidered by the Greeks as being in every
rcfpc&t ſuperior to their own cities. If the Greeks were a hundred thouſand men, as
Thucydides eſtimates, the Trojans did not exceed ten thouſand (B. v. 123); let us even ſup-
poſe them to have been fix thouſand, and that every fifth perſon hore arms, the city muſt
liave then contained thirty thouſand inhabitants: it was a larger city probably than any at
that time exiſting in Greece. The whole ſurface of the hill fully inhabited, and allowing
ſpace for temples, palaces, and areas for public aſſemblies, would ſcarcely contain many
The allies of Troy were people of different languages (B. v. 804), who were col-
lected not only from the ſhores of the Propontis to the Bithynian coaſt of the Euxine, but
from that of the Ægean likewiſe, as far as the Ionian boundary.
347
in the iſland of Tenedos. We then returned to the chiftlik, and
bade adieu to the hoſpitable aghà, who poſſeſſed, in a great degree,
that trait of a true muſulman, urbanity to ſtrangers.
For ſeveral hours we traced with the utmoſt attention the courſe
of the Scamander from the cold or ſecond ſource, which is a collec-
tion of ſmall ſprings, through the moraſs, where for ſome miles it is
poſitively hid, till we reached the new canal', and ſaw plainly the
ancient bed. The banks of this river, where expoſed, are verdant
and beautiful, and watered to the brink. M. Chevalier's topography
and general idea, after a fair inveſtigation, we acknowledged to be
ingenious and plauſible 5.
We then fixed ourſelves at Giawr-keuy, or cape Janiſſary, a poor
village conſiſting entirely of Greeks, the ſite of the far-famed Sigæum,
which has likewiſe the name of Yenì-cheyr. It is ſingular that
Greeks ſhould ſtill occupy that ancient ſtation.
From this eminence we looked over the plain, the whole ſcope
of which we commanded; its broadeſt diameter may be five or fix,
!
f Mr. Chevalier has deſcribed this artificial canal in his map of the Troad as having
much too ſtraight a direction. It is conducted round the hill upon which the chiftlik of
Haſſan Paſhà is built. Undecided as its original deſign may now be, there are reaſons
for conjecturing that it ſupplied the large aqueduct of Atticus Herodes, near Alexandria
Troas.
& The merit of the original diſcovery muſt remain unconteſted in point of priority,
as Dr. Chandler has declined favouring the public with his “ Effay on the Troad, or a
Review of the Geography, Hiſtory, and Antiquities, of the Region of Troy,” announced
in 1775. The faint praiſe which M. Chevalier, almoſt reluctantly, gives to Dr. Pococke,
by calling him " too diffident," evinces how much he is indebted to him for his primary
idea, relative to the locality of Troy. Of Profeſſor Dalziél's notes it may be truly ſaid,
" materiem ſuperabat opus."
348
and its longeſt twelve miles, to Atchè-keuy. It is naturally verdant
and fertile, and now very generally cultivated, excepting near the
marſh, which occupies a fifth part. Homer gives frequent evidence
of his having perſonally viſited and examined this celebrated ſpot, of
which he ſometimes enters into minute deſcriptions'. The rivers are
particularly characteriſed. Simocis has broad fands, with a ſudden
and rapid current; Scamander is tranſparent, and regularly full,
within a narrow channel, and ſo they continue to be till their junc-
tion, before they reach the ſea. Whatever change the former may
have occaſioned in the preſent appearance of the plain, the analogy
taken from thoſe of Epheſus and Miletus, upon which Mr. Wood has
reſted his opinion that Troy was ſituated ſo much higher amongſt
the hills of Ida", ſeems to be ill founded; for the Simoeis has, at
no ſeaſon, either the ſize or declenſion from its ſource that the Cäy-
fter and Meander are known to have. The ſoil exhibits no marks of
volcanic fire, nor can it be reaſonably preſumed, from any preſent
appearance, that the face of the country could have been changed by
i Blackwell's Enquiry into the Life and Writings of Homer, p. 293, where this ſubject
is treated in a manner directly oppoſite to the hypothetical and ſometimes captious obſer-
vations of Mr. Bryant.
In this marſh Ulyſſes is ſaid by Homer to have lain concealed; and Virgil, in imi-
tation, has placed Sinon in the ſame ſpot
“ Limoſoque lacu per noctem obſcurus in ulvâ
6 Delitui."
Æn. 1. i. v. 135.
In this account, which Virgil makes Sinon give of himſelf to deceive the Trojans, the
cxiſtence of ſuch a lake was abſolutely neceſſary, otherwiſe he could not have been repre-
ſented as deceiving the Trojans by the ſemblance of truth.
k “ An Eſſay on the original Genius and Writings of Homer, with a comparative
View of the ancient and preſent State of the Troade, by the late Robert Wood, Eſq."
4to. 1775, p. 326 to 329.
349
an earthquake, upon which circumſtance as preſuppoſed another
hypotheſis is built. Of all the proofs adduced by M. Chevalier, the
tumuli, fo connected with the Rhætean and Sigean promontories,
and the outpoſts of the Grecian camp, are the moſt ſatisfactory.
The ſite is likewiſe confirmed by four others, which, to whatever
heroes they may be conjecturally attributed, with no additional
weight to the argument, give a certain degree of internal evidence,
and aſcertain the ſcene of great military tranſactions, or vicinity to a
large city. In thoſe rude and primæval ages, heroes had no other
monuments, nor could any more laſting have been deviſed.
"
Ingens
« Aggeritur tumulo tellus."
VIRG. Æn. I. iii. v. 62, 63.
We found the bas relief, and the celebrated Sigean inſcription,
written with the letters invented by Cadmus, and the lines written al-
ternately backward and forward, a mode of the higheſt antiquity, and
uſed likewiſe for the laws of Solon', according to Suidas. M. Choiſeul's
| The Sigean inſcription, ſo often quoted to aſcertain the ancient forms of Greek
letters, is cut upon a block of marble, which was the pillar of an Hermean ſtatue.
It is ſuppoſed to be more than two thouſand years old, for which, and a complete
ſpecimen of the mode of writing called Brotpoondon, it is chiefly valuable, ſince all it
acquaints us with is, that one Phanodicus, the ſon of Hermocrates of Proconneſus,
to whom the ſtatue was erected, had preſented a bowl or ſtrainer, with a ſtand, to the
public hall of the city Sigæum. Thoſe who are verſed in the ancient rites of ſacrifice, are
not to be informed that the bowl and ſtand here intended compoſed, when placed together,
a kind of tripod, uſed as a inoveable altar, the legs of which were ſo contrived as to ap-
proach nearer, or to ſeparate further from each other, for the inore conveniently receiving
veſſels of different ſizes. A perfect idea of their conſtruction is given by a draught in
Scacchi's Myrothecium, which ſhows their form to have been extremely elegant, and we
know that they were often made of the moſt valuable materials. The bas relief is well
deſcribed by Dr. Chandler. The Turks aflign a ſingular reaſon for the curioſity travellers
350
1
attempt to remove it, ſanctioned by firhmàns, and the intereſt of
Haſsan Paſhà, could not prevail againſt the ancient prejudices of the
villagers. It is accurately deſcribed by Chiſhul, Shuckford, and
Chandler, and is now placed at the door of a low hut, conſecrated as
a chapel. The letters are nearly worn out, having been ſo long uſed
as a bench to ſit on". Advancing fome furlongs over the promon-
tory, we ſaw the barrow (beſhic tepèe) called the tomb of Antilochus
by Strabo. On the other ſide of the village, under the brow of the
hill, crowned by half a dozen windmills“, near the ſea, are two
ſmaller tumuli, generally ſuppoſed to be thoſe, one of which is attri-
buted by the ancient geographers to the illuſtrious friends Achilles
and Patroclus, and the other to Peneleus the Boeotianº. Since the
opening and diſcoveries made in the former, by order of the French
ambaſſador, M. le Compte de Choiſeul Gouffier, 1787, fome der-
1
diſcover to exainine all inſcribed ſtones, but this in particular, " that it contains an exact
account of the treaſures ſecreted under the different barrows. The inarble, as delineated
and a fac ſunile of the letters given in Chandler's Inſcript. Antiq. is eight feet leven inches
by one foot fix inches, and in Knight's Analytical Eſſay on the Greek Alpbabet, pl. 2.
m Chandler's Travels, c. XV.
n Windmills are of Oriental invention, where conſtant ſtreams are univerſally defi-
cient, and were introduced into Europe by the firſt croiſaders.
• Alexander performed a ſacrifice with garlands and pouring of oil on the tomb of
Achilles. Mr. Bryant objects, that the barrows of Achilles, Patroclus, and Antilochus, are
falſely attributed, as they were all buried under one tomb. If the deſcriptions of Strabo or
of his friend Demetrius are to be reſorted to as the only ſtandard by which vague conjecture
is to be fixed, why is the deciſive teſtiinony of the exiſtence of the tombs of Achilles and Ajax
marking the oppoſite promontories treated with ſilence or contempt? Would the "religio
loci” have influenced the Greeks to found cities contiguous to each of theſe tombs but in
purſuance of an ancient ſuperſtition, that they were genuine!
“ Fuit et Achilleon, oppidum juxta tumulum Achillis, conditum a Mytelenæis, &
mox Athenienſibus, ubi claffis ejus fteterat," Plin. Hift. Nat. l. vi. C. 30.
351
viſlies have built their convent againſt it, and placed a clay cabin on
the top. They now uſe the barrow as a cemetery.
M. Chevalier has informed us, “ that towards the centre of the
monument two large ſtones were found, leaning at an angle one
againſt the other, and forming a kind of tent, under which was pre-
fently diſcovered a ſmall ſtatue of Minerva ſeated in a chariot with
four horſes, and an urn of metal filled with aſhes, charcoal, and hu-
man bones. This urn, now in the poſſeſſion of le Compte Choiſeul,
is encircled in ſculpture with a vine branch, from which are ſuf-
pended bunches of grapes, done with exquiſite art”.
” Two
learned commentary fucceed this aſſertion, which introduces a cu-
rious hypotheſis reſpecting early Grecian ſculpture.
From information gained from the only perſon preſent at the
opening of the barrow, whoſe ſimple detail the favour of a friend
enables me to ſubjoin?, it is probable that nothing was found which
P P. 149.
I EXTRACT OF A LETTER FROM THE DARDANELLES.
“ I had a very intereſting converſation with the ſon of the late French conſul, Sig.
Solomon Ghormczano, relative to the opening of the tomb of Achilles, near the Sigean
promontory. He ſaid that he had been employed by Count Choiſeul Gouffier to examine
the tumulus and to ſearch for remains, and that he worked at it by night, deceiving the
aghà and people with the hopes of diſcovering a ſpring of water, ſo neceſſary to the inhabi-
tants of Yeni-cheyr. Two months elapſed in this work, as no other perſon ſuperintended.
He frequently wiſhed to decline it in deſpair, but was directed to perſevere. At length he
diſcovered the place where the reliques were depoſited. He immediately collected the
whole, and communicated his ſucceſs to his employer, filling a large cheſt with what he
had found. Mr. Choiſeul enjoined him to bring them to him, and. not to truſt them out
of his fight; but he repaid his trouble with thanks only. He was induced to reſerve fe-
veral ſmall ſpecimens, which he obligingly ſhowed and explained to us, as Mr. Choiſcul
was no longer forinidable.
352
could juſtify ſuch an account. Extreme age, and the preſſure of the
ground, had crumbled into atoms of ruſt all the metallic ſubſtances.
The urn, or vaſe, M. Fauval, an ingenious artiſt now reſiding at
Athens, received from M. Choiſcul in its decayed ſtate, and made a
“I fubjoin a liſt of them.
66-1. Pieces of burned bones. 2. Pieces of a metal vaſe. I inquired particularly
concerning the vaſe, and in what ſtate it was originally found. He replied, that it was
broken, and had had a ſmall ornament only, round the rim; but that enough reinained to
determine the ſhape, and that it was of confiderable fize. What I ſaw was ſo entirely de-
ftroyed by ruſt that no plauſible conjecture could be formed from it. 3. Charcoal, made
of vine branches. 4. A piece of mortar and ſtone, which appeared to have paffed through
fire. 5. A piece of metal of a triangular ſhape. 6. Pieces of very fine pottery, well
painted, with wreaths of flowers of a dark olive colour. He obſerved that ſome of the
pieces of pottery ſeemed to have compoſed large vaſes, beſide which were ſeveral ſmall
cups, ſome of which were intire, and reſembled Etruſcan ware. It might have been a
funcral ceremony to have emptied theſe to the memory of the deceaſed, and then to have
placed them in the tomb.
“ He delivered likewiſe to Mr. Choiſeul a fragment of braſs about a foot and a half
long, and in the iniddle, being the thickeſt part, about the circumference of a quart bottle,
and weighing feven or eight pounds. It was, at firſt, called the hilt of a ſword, but after-
ward Mr. Choiſcul declared it to be the ſtatue of a man, with a lion under each foot.
7. A ſmall piece of a tranſparent ſubſtance, belonging, as he ſaid, to a kind of tube
worked and clofed at one end. It may not be caſy to conjecture for what uſe this was in-
tended. From his deſcription of it, I collect, that it was about a foot long and two inches
in diameter, ornainented with branches in chaſed or emboſſed work, and of fo tranſparent
a nature, that oljects might be clearly ſeen through it. It had received but ſlight injury,
having only a ſmall fracture at the upper end.
• He then acquainted us with the different ſtrata of earth he had dug through in
opening the tomb. On the outſide was a kind of ſea ſand, the ſame as that near it; then
yellowiſh foil, ſolid but light; coloured earths, black and yellow, each ſtratum being two
feet deep, with large ſtones. On the foundation of the barrow apparently was a large flab,
extending, as he ſuppoſed, over the whole, as wherever le dug he ſtill found it. In the
middlc was a hole twelve feet ſquare, around which was raiſed a wall three feet high,
which was the ſepulchre containing the reliques. By the weight of the earth all was
preſſed together, which accounts for the confuſed and broken ſtate in which the things
were diſcovered. On the outſide of this ſtone was ſtrewed a quantity of lime, and then of
charcoal, ſuppoſed to be the aſhes of the funeral pile.
1
1
353
model from it, which has been exhibited to ſeveral connoiſſeurs, as
much to their ſurpriſe as ſatisfaction; and “ the goddeſs with her
chariot and four horſes " ſeem to prove that the Troad continues to
be the land of invention. If Pococke's opinion be juſt, that Beſhic
tepee, on the Sigean ridge, on account of being more conſpicuous at
fea, was the true ſepulchre of Achilles and Patroclus, and the two on
the ſhore thoſe of Antilochus and another hero, Chevalier's account
is deſcription inſtead of truth.
The rain becoming inceſſant, and the wind contrary, we were
detained the whole day at Giawr-keuy, and at night were preſent at
a Greek eſpouſal, a ceremony which engaged our curioſity.
Having been invited to the houſe of the bridegroom at even,
after a treat of coffee and ſweetmeats, we accompanied him with fe-
Feral of his relatives and friends to claim his bride. We were pre-
çeded through the ſtreets by two lyriſts, who ſung and played as
loudly as poſſible, with long-holding notes. Being arrived, after in
troduction and repeated ceremonies, we were ſoon admitted to the
ſpouſal chamber, where the bride ſat to receive compliments and
preſents. It was a ſmall room, crowded with girls of her kindred,
and every unmarried female in the village, as gueſts, from each of
whom ſhe had received ſome donation. The diſplay of her wealth
was made with no ſmall oftentation ; large preſſes and drawers were
opened to exhibit her apparel and the furniture of her bed-chamber;
“ When the barrows were cloſed up, Count Choiſeul placed a ſheet of lead on the
bottom inſcribed Ouvrage fait par le Compte de Choiſeul Gouffier l'an 1787'!!!
Mr. Chevalier's ignorance of modern Greek led him into a curious miſtake. The two
contiguous barrows are called “dthèo tepè,' the two tombs. Mr. Chevalier hearing this
name from the villagers, immediately conjectures away with his A195 Tewe,' and puzzles
himſelf with mythology.
- O&tober, 1795."
Zz
1
354
and
upon
lines ſtrained acroſs the room near the ceiling were hung
many embroidered kerchiefs and ſhawls, with which ſhe was in fu-
ture to be decorated. She fat motionleſs, a little clevated above the
company, with a pretty face completely rouged, and a veil of red ſilk
over her hair, which was plaited and ſtrung with ſequins, the long-
hoarded wealth of the family. Previous to the cloſe of this cere-
mony the female attendants joined in an hymeneal chaunt, which
was not inelegant, whilſt we placed our preſent in one hand of the
bride, who appeared unconſcious of what was paffing, and in the
other was a paſte of the powder of dried leaves mixed with water,
which is called kinah, or hènnah ", univerſally uſed by the women.
The matrons were buſied in tying up one of our fingers with ſome
of this preparation, which being left for the night, tinges the nail of
a roſe colour, and for ſeveral months is retained as a lucky omen.
Certain of theſe cuſtoms have been tranſmitted from the ancient
Grecians, particularly the flamen, or red veil. We afterward fat
down to a moderate collation of fruit and pilàv, of which the men
and married women partook. This was the eſpouſal only, as the
marriage was intended to be folemniſed on the following Sunday.
There is little peculiarity in the dreſs or domeſtic habits of the
village Greeks on the continent of Anatolia. In the iſlands great va-
riety is found, as the inhabitants of each are inſpired with a love of
their native foil fo irradically congenial with their deareft opinions,
that they imagine the horizon which bounds the view of the neigh-
bouring iſlands and the ſea as compoſing all that is admirable in the
world. They do not yield even to the Swiſs in their attachment to
r The plant from which this preparation is made grows in India and Egypt, and is
called by Linnæus (Syft. Nat. p. 498) “ lauſonia ramis inerinibus." The cuſtom is fo
ancient that the nails of the mummies are dyed. The Arabs call it " chenna," but the
Turkiſh, and Greek women borrow it immediately from the Perſians.
355
their country, and the delight with which, when abſent, they pro-
tract any converſation relative to it. Their peculiar cuſtoms, infi-
nitely various as they are, in what relates to dreſs, are ſcrupulouſly
retained by the ſocial iſlanders, whilſt the continental Greeks are but
in a ſmall degree diſcriminated from each other.
The men are uſually ſeen with large blue trowſers, naked legs,
and red ſlippers, a fed faſh, ſometimes of ſilk, girding their waiſt,
and a jacket of cloth made in the Venetian faſhion, with ſeams of
guimp. Whiſkers are univerſally worn; beards only by prieſts and
thoſe who as religioniſts have viſited the holy fepulchre at Jeruſalem,
who are ſtyled
hadji,” as thoſe, by the Turks, who have made a
pilgrimage to Mecca. The elder men ſhave the head, as the Turks,
covering it with
fez,” or cloth ſcull-cap, and a blue turban, for
the white muſlin is prohibited to any but a muſulman. The younger
have their hair full, and turned under a bonnet of ſcarlet cloth,
which hangs down on one ſide. The girls have red ſlippers, and
when they walk out, high pattens of wood, white cotton trowſers,
claſping the ankle, and over them a ſlight filk petticoat. A cloſe
jacket, floped off behind, fits the ſhape exactly, whilſt the breaſts and
arms are covered with fine gauze. The ſleeves fall from the elbows,
and are full and open. By a zone of worked muſlin or coloured ſilk,
tied in a graceful bow, the waiſt is encircled, which is more generally
faſtened by two circular claſps of ſilver gilt, ſcarcely ſmaller than a
tea ſaucer. The hair in ringlets ſhades the forehead and face, and is
collected behind in many ſmall braids, ſometimes interlaced with gold
or filver coin, or with natural flowers, diſpoſed in garlands or ſingly,
with much taſte.
Of their domeſtic habits, when married, little can be ſaid in
praiſe. The men are employed as mariners and fiſhermen, or in cul-
tivation of their vineyards and arable fields. Flocks and herds are
356
rarely poffefſed by them, and would be an oſtenſible wealth which
they daré not exhibit to the Turkis of their own rank in life. Their
agricultural implements are moſt awkwardly contrived, and their
ploughs and waggons are drawn by a very diſproportionate number
of buffaloes or oxen. Near Conſtantinople, it is amuſing to ſec
twelve or fourteen yoked to a ſingle plough, and driven by four men,
and we are tempted to think that the arts of huſbandry are unknown.
In the Troad, the carts for common purpoſes, without indulging a
forced analogy to the ancient inventions, are of a Nape very ſimilar
to the war chariots deſcribed on bas reliefs. They are made of
wicker, round in front, upon an axle with low wheels, of one intire
piece, and a ſtraight pole with a yoke for two oxen abreaſt. It is
impoſſible to ſee them without recurring to heroic times, in ſuch a
ſpot, though now ſo humble an imitation, and ſo degradingly em-
ployed.
Induſtry or good houſewifery are qualifications to which the
Greek women are ſtrangers, and for want of which they are ſtig-
matiſed by the Turks by many opprobrious names.
To bedeck
themſelves in their hereditary finery, which is tranſmitted through
ſeveral generations, on feſtival days, is their pride and their delight,
whilſt their cottages are dirty and neglected.
A politician will readily attribute theſe defects, as well as others
of a moral kind, to the relentleſs tyranny to which they are inured,
rather than to the genius of the Greek nation, were it free and un-
controlled. For by thoſe, at leaſt, who viſit them under the influ-
ence of a claſſical partiality, it will be thought that no people on earth
are more liberally endowed by nature.
The cities of the Troad are enumerated both by Strabo, from the
communication of Demetrius, the grammarian of Scepſis, and in a
357
ſtill more ſummary manner by the elder Plinys. '. Of theſe the moſt
remarkable were Aſtyeia, and Palä-Scepfis for a gold and ſilver mine,
and Chryſſa for the temple of Apollo Smintheus', and his ſtatue,
s The leſſer, or Helleſpontic Phrygia, from the river ſepus to the promontory
of
Lectum, is two hundred miles long, irregularly compreſſed between the three ſeas and the
lofty ridges of mount Ida. It was planted by a colony of Greeks, two hundred years before
the Trojan war. The extent, however, has been variouſly ſtated. Homer deſcribes it from
the river ſepus, oppoſite Cyzicus, in the Propontis, and beyond the Granicus; Eudoxus
from the cities of Artaces and Priapus; Damaftes from Parium, at the mouth of the Hel-
leſpont; but all agree about Lectum (or Cape Baba) as the fartheſt boundary.
Ex Itinerario Antonini, lxxvi.
A Callipoli trajectum Lampfacum uſque ſtadia lx.
Inde Abydum.
Dardanum
Iliuin,...
Alexand. Troad
Mill. pafl.
24
.8
. 12
...16
Inde Antandrum...
Adramyttium..
Pergamum
Mill. paft.
•35
31
53
CITIES OF THE TROAD.
!
From Strabo, l. xiii.
I Parium
2 Pityeia
3 Lampſacus
4 Pælus
5 Abydos
15 Nauſtathmus
16 Palæ-Scepſis
17 Lariffa
8 Dardanus
9 Ophryſium
10 Rhæteum
11 Sigæum
12 Achæum
13 Thymbrias
14 Erineus
18 Chryſla
19 Hemaxitus
20 Scepſis.
6 Aſtyeia
7 Ilium
From Pliny, I. vi. c. 30.
I Gargara
5 Polymedia
2 Antandios
6 Adramyttium
8 Ariſbe
9 Achillæon
IO Alexandria Troas.
3 Aflos
7 Scamandria
Palamedium
Σμινθεο.”
Hom. II. i.
358
which was the work of the celebrated Scopas of Paros, already men-
tioned.
Scepſis ", merely as the reſidence of Demetrius, the friend of
Strabo, deſerves notice, being a ſeat of learning, as the libraries of
Ariſtotle and Theophraſtus were depoſited there*. The authority of
Demetrius y, in reſpect to accuracy, is by fome ſuſpected, as he quotes
Homer largely, without conſulting his geography.
The emperor Conſtantine, before he had fixed on Byzantium as
the ſite of his new city, had marked out the boundaries in the plain
between modern llium and Troy, and had proceeded fo far, when
The name of Smintheus was given to Apollo for a fingular ſervice, no leſs than
clearing a country of mice !
u Alexander forced the inhabitants of Scepſis to people his new city of Alexandria ;
but they were permitted to return by Lyſimachus.
1
* The libraries of Ariſtotle and Theophraſtus were given to Neleus, who brought
them to Scepſis, and bequeathed them to his deſcendants; but as literature was not their
purſuit, the MSS. were neglected. Attalus Eumenes, when forming his collection at
Pergamus, heard of theſe books, and demanded them; but the poſſeſſors being unwilling
to part with them, and hiding them underground, they were much injured. One of the
proprietors afterward ſold theſe books, in a inutilated ſtate, to Apellicon of Tcios, who
procuring their tranſcription, and the deficiencies having been ſupplied with many erro-
neous interpolations, they were held in the higheſt eſteem by the peripatetic philoſophers,
who had no other books. After the death of Apellicon, Sylla, having taken Athens, re-
moved them to Rome, where, and at Alexandria, they were inaccurately copied for ſale.
Strabo, 1. xviii. p. 6o9.
y Demetrius was at leaſt laborious; for he is ſaid to have written thirty books on
ſixty lines of " Homer's Catalogue of the Trojan Allies.” Mr. Bryant, in his Obſerva-
tions on M. Chevalier, 4to. 1795, p. 25, 26, vindicates Demetrius from the imputation of
inaccuracy, whom he repreſents as cqual to the charge given him by his friend Strabo, of
compiling the geography of the Troad.
359
he changed his intention, that ſeveral towers and walls were viſible
from the ſea, if credit be due to the Byzantine hiſtorian.
At the preciſe period of the Roman empire, when all the cities
of the Troad were flouriſhing, or at leaſt in ſome degree inhabited,
no region of the whole empire, of equal extent, could boaſt ſo many
cities, or ſo great a degree of population and ſplendour.
+
360
1
SECTION XXIII.
ISLAND OF TENEDOS--CITY OF ÆOLICA-TEMPLE OF APOLLO
SMINTHEUS—MODERN TOWN AND CASTLE-HISTORY-VOYAGE
ΤΟ CONSTANTINOPLE
BECALMED IN THE
IN THE HELLESPONT
1
PROSPECTS-HEXAMILIA-GALIPOLI-BERGAS-LAMPSACO
ISLAND OF MARMORA --ANCIENT PROCONNESUS—ANECDOTE
OF TURKISH PROSELYTES RODOSTO HERACLEA ESKI-
ERACKLEI SELIBRIA - BUYUCK AND KOUCHOUK CHECK-
MEGEH-CONSTANTINOPLE.
From Koum-kaļeh, after a delightful paſſage of four hours, we
landed at the port of Tenedos, which is ſmall and incommodious.
The caſtle, of a conſtruction not ancient, is triangular, with baſtions,
and a confined area. The guns placed there by the Venetians ſtill
remain. Nothing can exceed the ſupineneſs of the Turks, in pro-
found peace, as to the management of their garriſons: it not uncom-
monly happens, that fortreſſes of importance are intruſted to one old
janiſſary, who performs at the ſame time the double function of go-
vernor and porter.
The town, anciently Æolica”, has a favourable elevation at the
a « Tenedos habet urbem policam, et portus duos & Sminthæi templum Apol-
linis.” Euſtath. in Dionys. periegeſin. The more ancient names were Calydrie and
Leucophrys.
Strabo, 1. xiii. p. 604. Cellarius, v. ii. p. 8
361
baſe of a double promontory. With confiderable population, it is
mcanly built. Antiquities have long ago diſappeared, excepting one
very large ſarcophagus of coarſe granite, with an inſcription º
We aſcended the promontory, from whence is clearly ſeen the
whole ſurface of the iſland, which is wavy, and thickly incloſed with
vineyards, producing red wine much like Burgundy, and in favour-
able ſeaſons amounting to thirty thouſand meaſures, each of five gal-
lons. In a pictureſque view, the cuſtom of training the vines on
the ground, forms a very inferior effect to that of the feſtoons
of the olives and vines when planted together, as in Tuſcany.
The circumference of Tenedos is from twenty to thirty miles,
and the diameter not more than ſeven; inhabited, with ſmall ex-
ceptions, by Greeks. Certain fragments in the eſplanade of the
town afford a kind of proof that it was originally decorated by a
temple of Apollo Smintheus d.
The former city owed its origin, according to tradition, to
“ Eft in conſpectu Tenedos notiſſina famâ
“ Inſula, dives opum, Priami dum regna manebant;
“ Nunc tantum finus, et ſtatio malefida carinis."
Æneid, ii. V. 21.
Virgil adopts a bold invention, making two prodigious ſerpents croſs the ſea from Tenedos
to deſtroy Laocoon and his ſons. He probably was indebted to the celebrated groupe now
preſerved in the Vatican, or to that deſcribed by Pliny, for the animated imagery he dif-
plays on the horrible ſubject.
« « ATTIKΩ ΚΑΙ ΚΛΑΥΔΙΑ ΣΕΚΟΥΝΔΑ, ΕΑΝ ΔΕ TIC ΕΤΕΡΟΝ ΝΕΚΡΟΝ ΒΑΛΗ
H OCTIA, AITOAEEH AOJIH ETON QIEKON." x B Q. Chandler's Infc. Antiq. p. i. iv.
4 « Τενεδoιo τε ιφι ανασσεις
Σμινθεο !”
Iliad, i. v. 38, 39
3 A
1
362
Temna, or Tinnes, the ſon of Cygnus, as their coins expreſs The
Grecian ficet after the deſtruction of Troy anchored at Tenedos,
which was long tributary to the Athenian ſtate. At the fall of the lower
Greek empire the Turks became maſters of it. In 1656, Tenedos
and Lemnos yielded to the Venetians; and in the next year, after
four days reſiſtance, the Turks landed five thouſand men, and the
placc, no longer tenable, was ſurrendered to them s.
In
my fecond viſit to Tenedos, where I was detained fome days
by continual ſtorms, I had many converſations with the principal
papas, or Grcek pricft, relative to the diſcovery of coins. He had a
few of filver, in high preſervation, ſtamped at Tenedos; and in-
formed me, that at the neighbouring iſland of Thaſos great quan-
tities were now found. Although the legend of his coins was par-
ticularly perfect, he could not decypher it; nor had he heard of
Troy, or of Homer.
In carly times, Tenedos was celebrated for female beauty be-
yond other iſlands h.
The ſea view from the higheſt point of the promontory is parti-
cularly intereſting. To the weſt, Lemnos, and its exhauſted vol-
cano, an immenſe cone, penetrating the horizon. On the north-weſt
are the iſlands of Imbros and Samothrace, with more lofty ſummits
towering behind, the entrance of the Helleſpont, and, farther round,
the Sigean promontory, and the whole foreſt in which Alexandria
Troas is ſituated, with a long range of Ida. Mount Athos is to be
+
Pauſanias, l. x.
f Homer. Odyll. I. iii. 159. Thucydides, l. viii. p. 532.
& Ricaut contin. Knowles, p. 90.
h “ In Tenédo, omnium fæminarum pulcherrinæ nafcuntur, inquit Nymphodorus."
bufonius de luxu Græc.
363
ſeen only at ſun-ſet under a weſtern ſky. The harbour is protected
by an old mole, ſcarcely viſible above the water ; and on the other
fidc is a beacon. Round the coaſts are many ſmall coves for
ſhipping
I had here to regret (November 18, 1794) my ſeparation from
the gentlemen I had hitherto accompanied, who were bound for
Lemnos, Grecce, and a more enlarged tour. It would be fortunato
for many of our young men of fortune if they travelled with their
ſpirit of inquiry and accommodation to circumſtances ſupported by
as much claſſical erudition, and as unabating perſeverance.
Having agreed with the captain of a Venetian ſhip, bound for
Conſtantinople, I embarked; and foon reaching a ſtation oppoſite
cape Berbier (Dardanus), we were becalmed, or detained by a north
wind, for eight days.
The navigation of theſe ſtraits is extremely precarious during
the eteſian or anniverſary winds; and it is a chance whether a veſſel
ſhall fail to or from Smyrna in three days, or three months.
With ſo much leiſure for contemplation, and fixed to a ſpot
which is ſo frequently recorded as the preliminary ſcene of the moſt
renowned achievements, and thoſe deciſive of the fate of empires,
the delay ſeemed leſs tedious i.
The extent of the Hellefpont, as calculated by that of the Cher-
ſoneſus, from the head of the gulf of Saros to its extremity, is from
i Thucidyd. 1. viii. p. 588. Lucan. Pharſal. de Xerxis ponte, I. ii. v: 672. D'An-
ville en Mem. Acad. Inſcript, t. xxviii. p. 318 to 343, with a map. Voyage d'Anacharfis,
t. ii. p. 49.
364
1
forty to fifty miles. Both the paſſage of Xerxes, by means of a
bridge of boats, and his diſgraceful return, are events deſcribed in
hiſtory, and alluded to by poets.
« Xerxis et imperio bina coiffe vada.”
PROPERT. 1. ii. el. 1.
“Xerxes, the liberty of Greece to yoke,
" From Sufa, his Memnonian palace high,
" Came to the ſea, and over Helleſpont
« Bridging his way.”
PAR, Lost, b, x. 1. 310.
He is ſaid to have arrogantly called it a falt river. Other memorable
circumſtances, are the tranſportation of the Saracens under Moſlemah,
when they firſt entered Europe, in order to beſiege Conftantinople in
718, and all the intervening cities yielded to their armsk. The vic-
tory obtained by the Venetians over Mahomet IV. in 1656 was an
humiliation which the Turks had then rarely experienced ?.
Mr. Gilpin's conjecture ", that the ſhores of the Helleſpont pre-
ſent a ſucceſſion of moſt beautiful landſcapes, is ſtrictly juſt, and the
k Gibbon's Rom. Hift. vol. x. p. 10.
I « Fece gemere ſotto il ponte il mare."
Petrarch.
The Venetian fleet was ſtationed in the Dardanelles from the 25th to 26th of June,
1656, oppoſite cape Berbier, which locks in one of the bays between the lower caſtles and
the mouth of the Dardanelles. An engagement took place, in which the prior of Rochelle
and admiral Moncenigo obtained a fignal victory. The Turkiſh fleet conſiſted of forty-
eight gallies, twenty-eight ſhips, and ſeven galeaſſes, of all which eighteen only eſcaped.
Five thouſand Chriſtian ſlaves were ſet at liberty. Rycaut contin. Knowles, p. 88.
Foreſt Scenery, v. i. p. 292.
365
$
evening view of the two oppoſite caſtles was eminently fo from the
place where the ſhip was anchored. The air was mild, as in ſpring,
and the foliage juſt beginning to wear its autumnal hue. About a
league above the caſtles the channel is ſo much incurvated, and the
continuation ſo concealed, that it exhibits the grandeſt lake ſcenery,
with towns and villages, with their minarèhs, vineyards, and flocks
of goats on the mountain ſides, as pictureſque features. In the
centre is a fine bay, and a large round promontory ſeems to incloſe
the water ; ſo that the approach to the ſea of Marmora is entirely
hid. At this point, Homer's epithet of “ the broad Helleſpont,"
eſpecially if it be qualified as a comparative expreſſion, will not be
conſidered merely as a poetic licence. Within fight were ſeveral
light barks of the country, called, from the fantaſtic poſition of their
fails, kirlangitſies (ſwallows), and thoſe of the Greek iſles, equally
ſingular in conſtruction, and without doubt on the model of the an-
cients, enlivening one of the moſt enchanting views that can be ima-
gined.
Upon the European ſhore is a large convent of derviſhes, of
the order of Teſhlì, in the midſt of a fine cypreſs grove. The ſur-
face of the ſea was placid; and a troop of camels, with the varying
found of their bells and the drowſy ſongs of their leaders, on the
brink of the ſhore, gave an intereſt to the whole.
As the wind favoured us we advanced in our voyage, when the
Aſiatic ſide gains the preference for cultivation, as well as variety of
foliage, and boldneſs of outline, ſome of the lower acclivities of Ida
extending as far as the ſea. The villages are beautiful, from their
ſituations; thoſe of Maïta, where the Saracens firſt effected their
landing, and Galata, are ſucceeded by the large town of Galipoli,
which covers a long knowl to its extremity, above a lofty cliff.
Between theſe were the city of Lyſimachia, deſtroyed by an earth-
.
366
quake" ſoon after its foundation, and the celebrated Hexamilia”, the
barrier wall of fix miles acroſs the Cherſoneſus, “ ſo often raiſed, and
ſo often ſubverted," and at length taken by Mahommèd II. when the
Greeks were driven within the confines of their imperial city. On
the ſhore of Aſia are Bergas and Lampfaco, anciently Percotè and
Lampfacus, the latter remarkable in hiſtory for its temple of Venus
Meretrix, and the obſcenities practiſed by its inhabitants under the
ſanction of public worſhip. Chardàk, the ancient Parium, ſucceeds :
all theſe towns are emboſomed in low wood, or ſurrounded with
luxuriant incloſures.
Lampſacus was, in remote times, a conſiderable city; even under
the Romans it had temples and other ſplendid appendages. It is
now a village only, abundantly productive of wine, almoſt equal in
flavour to that of Oporto long matured in Engliſh cellars, and for
which it ſtill deſerves to be facred to Bacchus.
We then approached the ſea of Marmora, from the view of
Juftin. l. xvii. c. I.
• « The length of the Hexamilia from ſea to ſea is 3800 orgygia, about five miles.”
Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. xii. p. 96, 247.
P A ſtatue and temple at Lampſacus were sledicated to the empreſs Julia Auguſta.
Wheler, b. i. p.76.-Mottraye faw no remains of conſequence.
Anaximenes was the name both of an orator and hiſtorian, natives of Lampſacus.
The former wrote “ EXyVixg.," and “ Alegavope wpages;" the other “ Badinewy petar-
doyar." Diog. Laert. p. 90.
Charon of Lampſacus, an eminent hiſtorian, who flouriſhed 479 years before Chriſt,
wrote much concerning Perſia and Grecce, but particularly of his own city.
A complete ſeries of Lampſacene coins, in gold, ſilver, and braſs, with heads of dif-
ferent deities, chiefly Neptune, and Bacchus, their tutelar, infcribed “ AAMEAKHNO2N."
V. iv. p. 68, Coll. Ainſleian.
367
which the contiguous coaſts are no where excluded. Thoſe which
almoſt entirely occupy the iſland of Marmora are moſt conſpicuous
in the centre.
The European coaſt is now a dreary plain, marked by ſeveral very
large tumuli, which may have ſerved both as ſepulchral monuments,
and for diſplaying the banner of Mohammed; or, as fome have con-
jectured, are of the moſt diſtant ages, and contemporary with, if not
anterior to, thoſe in the Troad. The oppoſite ſhores are woody and
diverſified.
After a ſtorm we were detained within a league of the iſland of
Marmora, known by the ancients as Proconneſus 9. At a ſmall
diſtance nothing appears but a maſs of tremendous rock with craggy
and ferrated ſummits. Cloſe to the ſtrand are two villages, Palatra
and Camiato, with ſufficient verdure about them to form a pic-
tureſque contraſt. On the other ſide was Proconneſus, now the
village of Marmora, with a good port (immediately oppoſite Cyzi-
cus, the metropolis of the Hellefpontic cities), which is noticed in
the Grecian hiſtory, and was the birth-place of ſome literary cha-
racters". Klaffakì, a village near it, is inhabited by Greeks, where,
a few years ago, in order to avoid the capitation tax, they became
proſelytes to iſlamiſm. But the Porte, unwilling to encourage them
at the expence of their revenue, and fearing the prevalence of exam-
plc, impoſed on them a double tax in future. They had gained a
4 Strabo, l. xiii. p. 589.
· Ariſtæas Proconnefius, a poet, compoſed “ Tæ apudoteta ewy." Longinus and
Pauſanias, I. ix. C. 4. Suidas,
Bion tranſcribed the works of Cadmus of Miletus, one of the moſt ancient hiſtorians,
and reduced them into ſhort chapters.
368
ſufficient knowledge of the modern Greeks to induce them to make
that deciſion. Thoſe employed in the marble quarries have certain
immunities, or exemptions, upon the ſame principle as the cultivators
of maſtic in the iſland of Chios.
In the centre of the gulf of Rodoſto, or, in Turkiſh, Tekìr dagh
(the imperial hill), is a city of the ſame name, anciently Biſanthè,
or Rhædeſtum, and advancing, the modern town of Heracklis.
A mile or two diftant, more inland, are the ſtrong veſtiges of
Perinthus, or Heraclea, now called Eſki Herackli, the inveterate and
ſucceſsful rival of Byzantium.
It borc the name of the founders, Hercules, or Perinthus, as
both are recorded; was colonized by the Samians, and beſieged
by Philip, without ſucceſs, 341 years before Chriſt. When Byzan-
tium was raſed by the emperor Severus, it gained eſpecial diſtinc-
tions. John, king of Bulgaria, after his defeat of the emperor
Baldwyn, in 1206, ravaged it on all ſides; and in the ſame century
we find it given as an eſtabliſhment to the Genoeſe, by Michael
Paleologus“. Perhaps the Genoefe ſhould be conſidered as the
· Cellarius, v. i. p. 849, 850.
1
+ Plutarch.
Gillies's Hift. of Greece, v. iv. p. 178.
Quæ magna Perinthus
Ante fuit, priſcum mutavit Heraclea nomen.
u Knowles, v. i. p. 60. Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. ix. p. 325.
Abbate Seftini (Coll. Ainſleian, v. iv. p. 93) notices a braſs coin of Heraclea with the
head of a young Hercules with the Nemæan ſpoils-HPAKAENTIN. OP. Upon many
braſs coins of Nerva and Domitian it is called HIEPINOINN.
369
founders of the new town, a ſituation which, as a maritimc people,
they would prefer.
We ſoon came in ſight of Selivrea", an ancient city, but moſt
known in the decline of the lower Greek empire. It is a metropo-
litical ſee, and the ruins of a vaſt cathedral are ſtill to be diſcovered.
John Cantacuzene built here a magnificent palace, and made it his
reſidence. The city walls, and thoſe of the palace, exhibit a very
intereſting ruin, crowning a rock above the ſea.
The region of Selibria was held by Demetrius Paleologus, and
taken by Mahomet II. in 1453. The great wall, extending from
Selivrèa to Burgaz, of which certain veſtiges may be traced, was
built by Eterius, the privy counſellor and favourite architect of the
emperor Anaſtaſius. To ſuch a protection did his expiring empire
owe a protracted exiſtence.
Buyuk, and Kouchouk Checkmegèhy, are large villages, each at
the termination of an extenſive and beautiful lake, formed by inlets
of the ſea, and communicating with it. Bridges and a cauſeway
The emperor Aurelian was killed by the conſpirators on his march from Byzantium
to Heraclea. Gibbon's Rom. Hif. v. ii. p. 55. Eutropius, l. ix. c. 9
Grelot (p. 64) ſpeaks of the amphitheatre, many inſcribed pedeſtals, and ruins of a
magnificent church, as renaining at the time of his journey.
Nicephoras Gregoras, v. ii. Cantemir, v. ii. p. 106.
“ Orchan's camp was at Selibria when he was married to the daughter of John Can-
tacuzene." Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. xi. p. 441.
y « Great and little drawbridge." Cantemir, b. iii. p 220.
3 B
370
were erected by Selim II. in 1568, on the high road from Edrinè, or
Adrianople, to the capital .
Paſſing the point of St. Stephano, in the Greek age a monaſtery
according to their inſtitution containing ſome hundred monks, and
where the fleet of the French and Venetian croiſaders anchored in
the reign of Alexjus, we foon hailed the ſeven towers, and the city
of Conſtantinople, to the left. As we approached it laterally, the
grand effect which is ſo much admired from other points was necef-
ſarily loſt, in a great degree.
2 Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. vi. p. 14.6.
2
371
SECTION XXIV.
VIEW OF THE GREEK CHURCH DOCTRINES CEREMONIES
LITURGIES AND OFFICES-CHURCHES, PICTURES, AND VEST-
MENTS OF THE CLERGY-DISCIPLINE-ECCLESIASTICAL AND
MONASTIC INSTITUTIONS-PATRIARCHAL SYNOD-FUNERAL OF
A GREEK PRIEST-ANECDOTE-REVENUES OF THE CHURCH
-
PILGRIMAGES-RUSSIAN CHURCH.
The ſeparation of the eaſtern churches from that of Rome, and the
animoſities which ſubſiſted between them for many ages, are not to
be aſcribed to their early difference in opinion concerning the obſer-
vation of certain feſtivals, nor even to the more important ſubjects of
diſpute which
gave riſe to the Arian hereſy. They are rather to be
referred to that period when Conſtantine removed the ſeat of empire
from Rome to Byzantium,' and, by augmenting the dignity of the
iatter ſee, rendered it formidable to the authority of the Roman
pontiff. In the ſecond general council, the biſhop of Conſtantinople
was allowed to fit next to the ſucceſſor of St. Peter; and the
twenty-eighth canon of the fynod of Chalcedon, he was permitted to
enjoy an equal rank. No ſmall reſiſtance was made to theſe encroach-
ments, but the emperors of the eaſt were ſtrenuous to aſſert the pri-
vileges of the new city, and by the preponderance of their authority
confirmed all its pretenſions. The flame of reſentment, though ſtiflcd
for a time, broke out with increaſed fury in the cighth century. A
new cauſe of offence was given by Leo, the Iſaurian, in his zeal
againſt images, of which the Roman pontiff did not fail to take ad-
vantage. On this occaſion, however, Gregory carried his perſecution
372
of the Iconoclaſts too far; for the emperor, as well to reſtrain his
power as to puniſh his arrogance, ſeized his poſſeſſions in Calabria,
Sicily, Illyricum, and Greece, and transferred them to the juriſdiction
of the biſhop of Conſtantinople. From that period we may conſider
this unfortunate ſchiſm as fixed and incurable; for notwithſtanding
the church of Rome was afterwards accuſed of various errors and ir-
regularities, both by Photius and Michael Cerularius, it is certain
that theſe were not the principal cauſe of diffenfion. Hence the
two attempts made by Michael Paleologus to allay the fervour
contention were vain, and that the union propoſed by the council of
Florence was of ſhort duration. The mutual facrifices required were
unpalatable both to the Roman and the Conſtantinopolitan prelate,
ſo that each remains to this day the centre of a different ſyſtem.
+
Conſidering the ſtate of the Greek clergy, and the want of cu-
rioſity which ſeems to have prevailed in moſt parts of Europe re-
ſpecting that church, a genuine account of its doctrines and articles
of faith will ſcarcely be expected. In conſequence, however, of a
controverſy between Meſſrs. de Port Royal and John Claude, the ce-
lebrated proteſtant miniſter of Charenton, the religious tenets of the
Greeks were ſcrupulouſly examined, by which we are enabled to
aſſert that the doctrines of the Greek church differ but very little
from thoſe of Rome, at leaſt that they are much more reconcileable
to the faith of the latter than that of the Lutheran or reformed
churches. That diſcuſſion will authoriſe the aſſertion, rather than
the numerous certificates, which were eaſily obtained, by each party,
in favour of their own cauſe, from eccleſiaſtics ſcarcely leſs corrupt
than indigent and unenlightened.
The doctrine of the trinity and the articles of the Nicene and
Athanaſian creeds are received by the Greeks, in common with other
chriſtians. In one particular, indeed, they differ; they believe that
373
the Holy Spirit proceeds from the Father only, and not from the
Father and the Son; and in defence of this opinion they appeal to
the eccleſiaſtical hiſtory, the acts of councils, the writings of the fa-
thers, ancient manuſcripts, and eſpecially to a copy of the creed
of Conſtantinople, engraven on two tables of ſilver, and hung up in
the church of St. Peter at Rome by order of Leo III.
In the number of its ſacraments, the invocation of faints, the be-
lief of the real preſence, the practice of auricular confeſſion, and in
admitting maſſes and ſervices for the dead (if not in acknowledging
a ſpecies of purgatory), the Greek church is perfectly conſonant to
that of Rome. It is aſſerted that the doctrine of fupererrogation and
its conſequent indulgences and diſpenſations are not adopted by the
Greeks. But notwithſtanding this and other leſs important pecu-
liarities, it is evident from the moſt authentic documents, that the
creeds of Rome and Conſtantinople are not materially different. In
vain are we reminded of the congregation de Propagandâ, or told
that many of the Greeks have ſtudied in Italian ſeminaries, and of
courſe little credit ſhould be given to theſe, being ſuch as were called
Latinophrones, or perſons attached to the church of Rome. The
fact is, that of thoſe who were not educated in Italy, few are able to
rational account of their faith. If we diſtruſt ſuch men as
Beffarion, Mogilas, Leo Allatius, &c. we ought not to be leſs fufpi-
cious of thoſe ignorant kaloycri and prieſts who were never abſent
from their own country.
give any
By the preaching and apoſtolical labours of jeſuit miſſionaries
many Greeks, ſpeaking collectively of all in the Ottoman empire,
a See the “ Confeſſion of the Catholic and Apoſtolic Faith of the Greeks and Rur-
ſians, drawn up by Peter Mogilas, Metropolitan of Kioff, and confirmed by the four
Oriental Patriarchs, as well as ſeveral other Biſhops and Divines, in 1643."
374
have been converted to the church of Rome. But theſe profelytes
were originally made by the Genoeſe or Venetians, to whom the
Morea and the iſlands of the Archipelago were ſubject, and have con-
tinued from hereditary opinion.
It ſeems to be the general notion of writers on this ſubject, that
no ſubject, excepting the dread of excommunication, operates more
powerfully in reſtraining the Greeks within the pale of their own
church, and preventing their apoſtacy to the religion of the Ro-
maniſts or Turks, than a rigorous obfervation of rites and ceremonies.
By their eccleſiaſtical ordinances they are required to attend the
ſervice of the church on the Lord's day, and on all faſts and feſtivals,
not only ſuch as are uſual, but ſuch as are particularly appointed.
The feſtivals of the Greek church are ſcarcely leſs numerous than
thoſe of the Latin. They annually obſerve four principal faſts, viz.
for forty days previous to Chriſtmas; for the ſame ſpace of time be-
fore Eaſter; from the week after Pentecoſt to the feaſt of Sts. Peter
and Paul (June 29th); and from the firſt to the fifteenth of Auguſt,
this laſt being the day of Koimeſis, or Aſſumption of the bleſſed
Virgin
b
To give a minute detail of the rites and ceremonies of the Greek
church would be a work of no ſmall labour and extent. The reader
whoſe curioſity is intereſted in ſuch a reſearch may conſult any of
the liturgical authors mentioned by Fabricius, or our own country-
men (perhaps not leſs ſatisfactory than the beſt of them), Covell and
" During faſts, the Greeks abſtain entirely from meat, and ſubſiſt chiefly on fiſh,
caviare, a preparation of the ovaria of ſturgeon, made in the Crimea, botargo, a ſuperior
fort of it, and pickled olives. Land tortoiſes, which abound on the European ſide of
Conftantinople, are likewiſe eaten without ſcruple, for they aſſert that their blood is cold,
and that they inay be conſidered as partaking of the nature of fiſh.
375
King. Some remarkable peculiarities of their ritual claim our pre-
ſent attention.
They adminiſter the ſacrament of the Lord's ſupper to infants
newly born; and in the place of confirmation they ſubſtitute the
chriſm, or ſacred unction, being a part or appendage of the baptiſmal
ceremony. Marriage is by them called the matrimonial coronation,
from the crowns or garlands with which the parties are decorated,
and which they ſolemnly diffolve on the eighth day following.
The facrament of the holy oil, or euchelaïon, is not confined, as
the extreme unction in the Romiſh church, to the ſick and dying,
but is given to devout perſons upon the ſlighteſt malady, if required.
The lavipedium obſerved on Holy Thurſday, in imitation of our Sa-
viour's humility, differs little from that ceremony as performed by
the pope. On this occaſion Jeſus Chriſt is perſonified by the patri-
arch, and the twelve apoſtles by as many kaloyeri, when a ludicrous
conteſt ariſes who ſhall be the repreſentative of Judas, for the name
attaches for life.
1
Dr. King judiciouſly remarks, that by liturgy, the office of the
euchariſt only was deſcribed, nor has it at preſent a different mean-
ing in the Greek church, the four liturgies of which are thoſe of
St. James, St. Baſil, St. Chryſoſtom, and thoſe of the pre-fanctified
myſteries.
The firſt of theſe is aſſerted to be ſpurious by Smith, and there-
. Rycaut (Greek Church) mentions that it is uſed once in the year only, on
the feaſt of St. James (23d O&tober), and that it is laid aſide at other times, chiefly on ac-
count of its tedious prolixity.
376
fore obſoleted. The liturgies of St. Baſil and St. Chryfoftom are
eſſentially the ſame; but the former being the longer, is uſed only on
certain days, while the latter is conſidered as the ordinary commu-
nion ſervice. That of the pre-fanctified is appropriated for Wed-
neſdays and Fridays in Lent, or the great faſt. By ſome it is aſcribed
to Gregory Dialogus, who lived in the ſixth century; but Smith at-
tributes it to Germanus, patriarch of Conſtantinople, two centuries
later.
.
The ſervice of the Greek church, like that of Rome at preſent,
and that of all other churches before the reformation, is principally
choralf. Their canons and antiphonies are hymns or portions of
ſcripture ſet to muſic, firſt recited by the miniſter and then chanted
by the choir, but without muſical inſtruments, which are not ad-
mitted in accompaniment. The ectinèa correſponds with our litany,
but is never ſo called by the Greeks. They have ſeveral in every
ſervice. In conſequence of a great variety of theſe and other forms,
their books of offices are numerous and bulky.
The Menæon contains the hymns and ſervices for
every feſtival,
as it occurs in the calendar, and is divided into twelve volumes folio,
each volume compriſing the ſervice of a month. The Octoechos, is
ſo called from eight tones or voices, which are fixed to particular
hymns, and which ſerve as a rule for ſinging the reſt. It is divided
into two volumes folio.
Dr. King has given a tranſlation of it, Account of the Greek Church.
The naine of pre-fanctified is given, becauſe this ſacrament can be celebrated only
at vcſpers, and by clements conſecrated on the preceding Sunday.
i Of which are the trifagion, troparia, contakia, ſtichöe, ſtichera, prokimena,
cilodöe, &c.
377
The Synnaxar, or biographical hiſtory of the ſaints, comprehends
four volumes folio, of which an appropriate portion is read on every
ſaint's day. To theſe muſt be added the pſalter and hours, the
common ſervice, the four goſpels, the two triodes, the book of
prayer, the ritual, and (which is very neceſſary in ſuch a complex
maſs of liturgical forms) the regulation, wherein are contained direc-
tions how they are to be uſed.
Of the Menologion it is ſufficient to remark that it nearly reſem-
bles idolatry; they admit pictures into their churches, not merely as
ornamental, but as indiſpenſable in the ceremonials of their religion.
They are uſually attached to the ſkreen which ſecretes the chancel,
and from thence receives the name of iconoſtas. In the arguments
advanced by Greek theologiſts in defence of this preference of paint-
ing to ſculpture, there appears to be little folidity. They conſider
themſelves as ſecure under the authority of St. John Damaſcenus.
The plates in Dr. King's work will afford a more exact idea of
the facerdotal habits than any verbal deſcription; nor are they leſs
various, ſplendid, and coſtly, than thoſe of the Romiſh church. The
biſhops and archimandrites wear mitres and other epiſcopal decora-
tions during the performance of divine ſervice. The epitrachelion
correſponds in ſome meaſure to the ſcarf worn by our clergy, as the
phelonion does to the gown or ſurplice, excepting that the latter is
made of rich ſilk or velvet embroidered with gold or ſilver. In the
emblematical and myſtical properties attributed to clerical veſtments,
the Greek church rivals the barbariſm of the monkiſh
ages.
In regard to diſcipline and government, the reſemblance of the
Greek to other epiſcopalian churches, and particularly to that of
Rome, may be eaſily conjectured. The ſame diviſion of the clergy
into regular and ſecular, the ſame ſpiritual juriſdiction of biſhops and
3 C
378
their officials, the ſame diſtinction of ranks and offices, is obſervable
in both. Some points there are in which the diſcipline of the Grecks
(who eſteem their own church the moſt ancient and orthodox) is
particularly deſerving of notice. All orders of the Greek clergy in-
ferior to biſhops are permitted to marry. The married
The married papas or
prieſts wear a fillet of white muſlin round their bonnet of black felt,
and long beards univerſally, and are never promoted to a higher dig-
nity than that of proto papas of the church in which they ſerve 5.
Celibacy and the aſſumption of monaſtic habits are indiſpenſibly re-
quiſite in thoſe who are candidates for the mitre.
In the Greek church, the regular clergy are generally men of
a certain education, whereas the ſeculars are of the meaner fort,
and illiterate in the extreme.
extreme. In that of Rome the reverſe will
be found.
The monks or caloyeri follow only the rule of St. Baſil; their
rcfidence is on mount Athos, in Chios, and the Princes' iſlands. Few
convents of females are now exiſting; but in both ſexes the degrees
of aſcetic proficiency is marked by peculiar habits. Their ſeminaries
of education are eſtabliſhed at mount Athos and at the monaſtery of
the Apocalypſe in the iſland of Pathmos; but I am credibly informed
& The obſequies of the biſhops are performed with various ceremonies, one of which
is the expoſing the corpſe ſeveral nights in a church dreſſed completely in pontificalibus.
In Pera when a papas dies, if his wife vow a perpetual widowhood, he is, by way of parti-
cular compliment, borne ſitting upright to his grave. One who had married a moſt beau-
tiful woman, and enjoyed a ſingular degree of conjugal happineſs, dropped down in a fit
of apoplexy, and was hurried to his grave in a few hours after. Previous to this ceremony,
his wife was aſked whether ſhe would renounce all future connections, that the deceaſed
might have the honour of an epiſcopal funeral ; which ſhe declined. As he was being
carried through the ſtreets, he ſuddenly came to life ; and on re-entering his own doors he
gave his unexpecting wife certain proofs of his reſuſcitation by a ſevere beating.
379
that the latter contains at this time three profeſſors only, and leſs
than one hundred ſtudents.
1
Of the patriarchate I have already ſpoken incidentally, as being
one of the four great offices to which intrigue or ambition may pro-
mote a Greek ſubject. The moſt eager competition is exerted, and
the patriarchal throne, even to the ſucceſsful candidate, frequently
becomes a very unſtable ſeat. Nor is life itſelf always ſecure, as in
the caſe of Cyryllus Lafcaris in the laſt century.
I
Beſide the power of nominating the other three patriarchs, and
all cpiſcopal dignitaries, the patriarch of Conſtantinople enjoys a moſt
extenſive juriſdiction, compriſing the churches of Anatolia, Greece,
Wallachia, Moldavia, and the iſlands of the Archipelago.
For the adminiſtration of eccleſiaſtical affairs, a fynod, convened
monthly, is compoſed of the heads of the church reſident in Con-
ſtantinople".
:
In this aſſembly the patriarch of Conſtantinople preſides, with
thoſe of Antioch and Jeruſalem, and twelve archbiſhops.' Seniority
ought to take the lead in theſe councils, but is too often overborn by
ſuperior talents or habits of intrigue, and a majority is commanded
by that prelate whoſe influence promiſes moſt to thoſe who ſupport
him.
h The preſent ſynodal biſhops are thoſe of
Cæſarea, in Cappadocia
Ephcſus, in lonia
Heraclea, in Thrace
Cyzicus
Nicomedia, in Bithynia
Nicæa
Chalcedone
Dercon
Thefalonica
Turnebo
Adrianople, in Thrace
Amafia, in Pontus.
1
380
So ſlender and uncertain are the revenues of the patriarchs of
Jeruſalem and Antioch, that they are obliged to reſide at Conſtan-
tinople, and to depend in a great meaſure on the bounty of their ſu-
perior, who of courſe commands their fuffrages.
The offices of grand logothete, proto-veſtiare, and proto-cance-
liere, of ſuch importance in the hiſtory of the Greek empire, are now
given with their ſhadow of authority to certain nobles of the Fanal.
Throughout the whole eccleſiaſtical ſtate, from the prelate or
deſpotes to the parochial papàs, a material defalcation of their original
income has occurred. The biſhoprics are univerſally charged with
the payment, of the intereſt at leaſt, of large ſums, accumulated for
ages, in conſequence of avaniàs levied on the patriarchate, to which
each dioceſe is bound to contribute its quota. By ſuch burthens the
revenues are ſo diminiſhed as to leave to the moſt opulent biſhop
little more than 300 1. a year. The ſecurity given in theſe eccle-
fiaſtical bonds is deemed the moſt ample, and the rich Greeks truſt
their
money on them, at a lower rate of intereſt, in preference to
commercial companies. The biſhops depend entirely upon a certain
tax, levied
upon each houſe within their diſtricts inhabited by Greeks.
A certain contribution is annually made amongſt the devout
Greeks to maintain votaries in their pilgrimage to the holy fepulchre
at Jeruſalem, yet ſuch as is inſufficient to defray the whole
expence
to each individual, who provides the reſt. Both ſexes perform theſe
pilgrimages. The men are diſtinguiſhed by the name of “ hadji,” as
amongſt the Turks, and they bring back likewiſe a piece of facred
cloth for their own fepulture. The pilgrimage of the Turks to
Mecca, of the Armenians to Ekmiàſin, and of the Greeks to Jeru-
falem, have both in their conduct and conſequences a very near
analogy.
381
Since the cloſe of the ſixteenth century, the Ruſſian church has
claimed a juriſdiction independent of the ſec of Conſtantinople.
Nevertheleſs, appeals have been made to that ſee in caſes of extra-
ordinary importance. From the ſucceſs of the Ruſſian arms in the
two laſt wars, ſhould the Ottoman power be eventually ſubdued, it
ſeems not improbable that the religion of the Greeks may once more
be triumphantly eſtabliſhed on the ſhores of the Boſporus, that the
creſcent may no longer profane the domes of chriſtian temples, and
that the patriarch of Conſtantinople may be reſtored to the dignity,
though not to the power and influence, which he enjoyed at the
moſt flouriſhing periods of the lower empire.
mer
382
SECTION XXV.
VIEW OF THE ARMENIAN CHURCH-DOCTRINES AND RITES-
FASTS AND FESTIVALS-DISCIPLINE OF THE CLERGY-MONAS-
TICS AND SECULARS-CHARACTER OF THE ARMENIAN NATION
-MOHAMMEDANS-JEWS-ASTROLOGY AND SUPERSTITION OF
-
THE TURKS-POETRY-MECHANIC ARTS-PRACTICE OF PHY-
SIC-TURKISH JURISPRUDENCE-ACCOUNT OF THE PRESS AT
CONSTANTINOPLE, AND : A SPECIMEN OF TURKISH LITERA-
TURE.
From the period at which Chriſtianity was eſtabliſhed in Armenia,
by Gregory, furnamed the enlightener, that nation has undergone
various revolutions. It was ſucceſſively invaded and ſubdued by the
Saracens, the Seljukian Turks, and the Tartars. In 1472 it became
a province of the empire of Perſia, in conſequence of the promotion
of one of its kings to the Perſian throne. At length it was again
conquered by the Turks under Selim II. in the fixteenth century,
ſince which time the greater part of it has remained in ſubjection to
the Porte.
That amidſt ſo many viciſſitudes the Armenians ſhould ſtill per-
ſevere in the Chriſtian faith muſt appear more remarkable, than that
they ſhould deviate in ſome particulars from the original doctrines
of their church. What theſe particulars were will be preſently
ſhewn.
At the commencement of the laſt century, a large colony of the
+
383
1
Armenians were ſettled in Perſia by Shà Abbas, the great. During
his reign they experienced the moſt liberal treatment, and enjoyed
the unreſtrained profeſſion of their religion. But his ſucceſſors were
not equally generous; perſecution enſued, and the Armenian church
declined daily in credit. It is to the merchants of that country that
Moſheim (and apparently with juſtice) aſcribes the preſervation of
the little religious knowledge poffeffed by the Armenians. The only
books they have are on ſuch ſubjects, and are printed at Venice and
Conſtantinople; principally bibles, liturgies, and the beatific viſions
of their faints.
The Armenian a was conſidered as a branch of the Greek church
profeſſing the ſame faith, and acknowledging the ſame ſubjection to the
fee of Conſtantinople, till near the middle of the ſixth century. At
that time the hereſy of the Monophyſites ſpread far and wide through
the regions of Africa and Aſia, comprehending the Armenians alſo
among its votaries. It ſeems to be generally allowed that they dif-
fered from other communions of the Monophyſite feet, and particu-
larly from the Jacobites, in many points of doctrine and worſhip. By
Gibbon they are called “ the pure diſciples of Eutyches ;" he affirms
that they believe the manhood of Chriſt to have been of a pure
in-
corruptible nature, and he imputes their converſion to Julian, bi-
ſhop of Halicarnaſſus.
But in theſe aſſertions there appears to be
a The Armenians in 1186 of their era (which correſponds with 1737 of ours) print-
ed at Conſtantinople, St. Chryfoftom's Commentary on St. John. Moſes II. their patriarch,
in a ſynod held in the city of Tevin, fixed the year 551 for the commencement of their
era, and made aſtronomical calculations to regulate their movcable feaſts. The current
year with them is 1246. In 1704 the Acts of the Apoſtles were tranſlated into Arme-
nian verſe by Coſmo di Carbognano. The Jewiſh and Armenian preſſes are ſtill employed ;
the firſt book printed by the former was a Hebrew Lexicon in 1488; and in 1646 they
publiſhed the Pentateuch in Hebrew, Chaldee, Perſic, and Arabic.
384
ſomewhat of inconſiſtency; for the hypotheſis of Julian and the
Phantafiaſts was not known, at lcaſt did not prevail, among the Ori-
ental Chriſtians till more than ſixty years after the council of Chal-
cedon. On what authority then are we to believe that the phanta-
ſian herefy was the genuine doctrine of Eutyches? Sir Paul Rycaut,
whoſe long reſidence both at Conſtantinople and Smyrna enabled him
to acquire information in regard to the religious ſyſtem of the Arme-
nians, gives the following ſtatement of the doctrines of their
church.
They allow and accept the articles of faith according to the
council of Nice, and are alſo acquainted with the Apoſtles' creed,
which they have in uſe. As to the Trinity, they accord with the
Greeks, acknowledging three perſons in one divine nature, and that
the Holy Ghoſt proceeds only from the Father.”
He denies that the Armenian church is attached to the Euty-
chian or Monophyſite hereſy, and produces a tranſlation of its ta-
vananh or creed in ſupport of that opinion. This inſtrument how-
ever is far from being concluſive.
Du Pin would inſinuate that the Armenians were reconciled to
the church of Rome at the council of Florence; but if we attend
to the learned and judicious Moſheim, the ſcheme of comprehenſion
projected in that council was completely fruſtrated, not only in re-
gard to the Greek, but all the Oriental churches.
In the rites and ceremonies of the Armenian church there is ſo
great a reſemblance to thoſe of the Greeks, that a particular detail
might be ſuperfluous. Their liturgies alſo are either eſſentially the
fame, or are at leaſt aſcribed to the ſame authors.
385
The faſts obſerved annually in the Armenian church are not only
more numerous, but kept with greater rigour and mortification than
is uſual in any Chriſtian community. In addition to theſe they faſt
on Wedneſday and Friday throughout the year, except in the weeks
before Eaſter and Aſcenſion day, and in that which follows the feaſt
of the Epiphany. Their ſeaſons of feſtivity correſpond, in general,
with thoſe of other churches, but they commemorate our Lord's
nativity on the ſixth of January, not on the twenty-fifth of December,
celebrating in one feſtival his birth, epiphany, and baptiſm.
The favourite faints of the Armenians are Surp Savorich or St.
Gregory, Surp Chevorich or St. Demetrius, Surp Nicolo, and Surp
Serchis or St. George.
When the Armenians receded from holding communion with
the Greeks, they made no change in their ancient epiſcopal form of
church government. They only claimed the privilege of chooſing
their own ſpiritual rulers. The name and office of patriarch was
continued, but three, or, according to Rycaut, four prelates ſhared
that dignity. Of theſe the principal reſides at the monaſtery of Ek-
miazin, near Ecrivan, in Perſia; his juriſdiction extends over Arme-
nia Major, aud he is ſaid to number among his ſuffragans no leſs than
forty-two archbiſhops. His opulent revenues are conſidered only as
fund for his numerous charities, for though elevated to the higheſt
rank of eccleſiaſtical preferment, he rejects all the ſplendid inſignia
of authority, and in his ordinary dreſs and mode of living, he is per-
fectly on a level with the pooreſt monaſtic.
The ſuperłtitious veneration with which the Armenians regard
the monaſtery of Ekmiazin is ſupported by legendary miracles. The
more devout make a pilgrimage there once in their lives as a point
of conſcience, like the Greeks to Jeruſalem, and the Mohammedans
3 D
386
to Mecca, and receive a falutary benediction in exchange for offer-
ings, which ſupply the fplendour of the altar and the maintenance
of its miniſters.
Next in dignity to the patriarch of Ekmiazin is the catholic,
who reſides at Cis, in Cilicia.
The abode of the laſt is at Aghtainan, an iſland in the lake of
Van. In the Armenian church, as in the Greek, a monaſtery is
conſidered as the only proper ſeminary for dignified eccleſiaſtics, for
they are required to practiſe abſtemiouſneſs in proportion as they
are advanced.
Hence though their prieſts are permitted to marry once only, and
uſually provide themſelves with wives, whoſe hcalth and youth pro-
miſe long life, their patriarchs and maſtabets (biſhops) muſt remain
in a ſtate of ſtrict celibacy. It is likewiſe neceſſary that they ſhould
have aſſumed the ſanctimonious exterior of an aſcetic.
The monaſtic diſcipline of the Armenians is extremely fevere.
They neither eat fleſh nor drink wine; they frequently continue in
prayer from midnight till three o'clock in the afternoon, during
which time they are required to read the Pſalter through, beſide
many other ſpiritual exerciſes b.
:
• The orders or regulations by which they are governed are thoſe of St. Gregory,
St. Baſil, and St. Dominic. The laſt was evidently introduced by the Romiſh miſſiona-
ries, who gained a footing in Arinenia about the commencement of the fourteenth cen-
tury. But the abſtinence and mortification of conventual eccleſiaſtics is ſurpaſſed by the
Gickriahorè or Hermits, who devote their lives entirely to contemplation, dwelling on
the ſummits of rocks. At the beginning of the preſent century, the preaching of the
Jcſuit miſſionaries at Pera was ſo ſucceſsful in the converſion of the Armenian citizens
387
Of the Armenian clergy in general the ſituation is truly deplora-
ble, as the chief part of their income ariſes from what we call fur-
plice fees, in the exaction of which they are encroaching and impor-
tunate beyond meaſure. Their extreme ignorance even of their
own doctrines is palliated, if poſſible, by their wretched and abject
ſtate.
A principal function amongſt them is the reading prayers over
the
graves
of the deceaſed, continued even for years, and many of
theſe poor prieſts are ſeen daily at Conſtantinople fo occupied, eſpe-
cially in the Armenian cemetery at the Campo de' morti.
Theſe mortuary compliments are fingularly conducted. A wi-
dow once a year, during her continuance in that ſtate, viſits the
grave
of her huſband, attended by many relatives. After many querulous
interrogatories and greetings of the deceaſed, her grief becomes ex-
travagant, her wailings are heard on all ſides, and at length her
compaſſionate friends propoſe comfort to her, and they finiſh the ce-
remony by a very ſolid repaſt and plenty of excellent wine.
The Armenians exiſt no longer collectively as a nation, once fa-
mous for the wealth and luxury of its monarchs; but ſucceſſively con-
quered and alternately ſubject to the Turks and Perſians, they have
preſerved only their native language (even which is diſuſed at Con-
ftantinople) and the remembrance of their ancient kingdom. Diſperſed
over all Aſia, they exert their natural genius for trade, principally
in ſpeculations as money changers; and individuals, who gain im-
of conſequence, that their biſhops applied to the Porte to procure their ſuppreſſion, or at
leaſt to reſtrain thein. When Ephraim the Armenian was telling the viſier of theſe en-
croachments of the catholics, “And what,” ſaid he, "are catholics but infidels; if the
hog be white, red, or black, it is nevertheleſs a hog; we will not interfere."
388
menſe property, prefer living peaceably in Conſtantinople to return-
ing into their own country.
The chief towns of Armenia are
Erzroom, Kars, Trebifonde, and Bayazid; and the inhabitant of theſe
who carries arms and ranks as a ſoldier, holds in contempt him of
Conſtantinople who ſeldom quits his counter.
Shà Abbas though forcing the Armenians to Iſpahan, to avail
himſelf of their induſtry, granted them privileges which led them to
forget Julfa their original metropolis. They are naturally formed for
commerce, cunning among thoſe they know, reſerved with ſtrangers,
temperate from economy or avarice, and humble and accommodating
for the ſake of intereſt; it may be preſumed, that they feldom
become bankrupts.
Their domeſtic manners are ſevere, and their perſons, almoſt
without exception, heavy and ſaturnine. The women, when
young,
are ſcarcely inferior in beauty to the Circaſſians or Greeks. The
precaution, which excludes them from that ſocial intercourſe with
men, ſo contributory to the happineſs of other nations, prevents
their being libertine; but in the capital they participate more of the
free manners of the Greeks, eſpecially the profelytes to the Roman
catholic faith, who are deſpiſed by the others, and the cxcommuni-
cation of the Pope is returned with the greateſt cordiality.
Armenia no longer retains any veſtige of former ſplendour, and
the inhabitants, miſerable at home or exiles from their country, can
no longer retrace, even by its ſhadow, their ancient magnificence.
Like the Jews, they ſuffer under a foreign dominion, and are forced
to fly far from their homes and the tombs of their anceſtors, to eſcape
a tyranny by which they have been oppreſſed for more than three
centuries,
389
The religious code of the Mohammedans is well known to us; but
with errors, diſguſting from their folly, it avows as its firſt principle the
exiſtence of one God Almighty, all merciful and the creator of all
things. ,
Its morality is included in a few words, “ Reſtore to thoſe
whom
you have deſpoiled, pardon thoſe who offend you, and do good
to all without diſtinction ©.'
The Conſtantinopolitan Jews attain to a degree of reſpectability,
becauſe they enjoy cqual privileges with the other ſubjects of the Otto-
man empire. They are allowed the free exerciſe of their religious
rites, and are indulged in their own juriſprudence, excepting when they
appeal by choice to the Cady. When Ferdinand and Iſabella, by a
falſe policy or a blind zeal, expelled them from Spain, the greater part
fought an aſylum in the Ottoman territory, and many ſtill retain the
names, and uſe the corrupt colloquial Spaniſh, mixed with Turkiſh
or Venetian .
The Turkiſh language is compounded of the ancient Scythian or
vernacular Turcoman, and the Arabic and Perſian. The conſtruc-
tion reſembles the Latin and German, nor is it deficient in dignity
or ſweetneſs. Monſieur Viguer, the author of the beſt grammar ex-
tant, obſerves that if a fociety of learned men were aſſembled for
the purpoſe of inventing or methodizing a language, they could not
have made it more perfect. I avow but a partial knowledge of it,
yet have liſtened to long converſations with leſs tædium than to the
mere ſounds of any other language to which I could attach no cer-
tain ideas. The Turks uſe much geſticulation with thoſe whom they
admit to colloquial freedom.
. Prideaur's Life of
c Sale's Preface to his Tranſlation of the Koran.
Mohammed, &c.
1
390
They reject all grammatical ſyſtem, conſidering that a mother
tongue does not require one. The hojās or ſchoolmaſters uſe no
grammatical rules in teaching Franks, but merely to read the cha-
racter and tranſlate by memory.
Aſtronomy is a favourite ſcience, and the ſyſtem of Ptolemy is
univerſally adopted in the caſt. Ulugh-bey wrote in 1449 in Arabic,
which was tranſlated into Perſian, and preſented to Bayazid II. a
century before the diſcoveries of Tycho Brahe, with which thoſe of
Ulugh-bey are ſingularly accordant.
The Ruz-nameh, or equinoctial tables of the new year of the
Mohammedans, appeared firſt in 1676. The eclipſes viſible at Con-
ſtantinople only are calculated. Common aſtronomical tables are
underſtood by the more learned Turks, and form a conſiderable branch
of commerce with the Franks ,
As favourite a folly with them is aſtrology. Ulugh-bey, amongſt
very numerous treatiſes, is moſt cſtecmed. He remarks the thirteenth,
fourteenth, and fifteenth of each month as the moſt fortunate; the
Ruz-nameh has likewiſe its three unlucky days, to which little at-
tention is now paid by the better fort. The ſultan retains his chief
aſtrologer, who is conſulted by the council on ſtate emergencies.
When the treaty of peace was ſigned at Kainargi, in 1774, he was
1
CALCULATION OF THE HEJRA FOR THE YEAR 1796.
If the firſt year of the Hejra 622 be ſubtracted from 1796, the remainder will be
1174. But as the Mohammedans reckon by lunar years, conſiſting only of 354 days, of
courſe in 33 years they will gain 363 days, or almoſt another year.
d. h. fec.
Now 33 : 12 :: 1 : 0 : 10 : 21 : 49 : Str or almoſt eleven days, which x1174
will give 12,984 days or 3513? years. But 35+1174=1209. So that including the
fraction, the laſt year (1796) will the 1210th year of the Hejra.
y.
m.
y.
m.
391
directed to name the hour moſt propitious for that ceremony.
The viſier's court ſwarms with ſuch impoſtors. It was aſſerted, that
they foretold the great fire at Conſtantinople in 1782. There was
likewiſe an inſurrection of the Janiffaries which they did not fore-
tell, but their credit was ſaved by the ſame word bearing two in-
terpretations of inſurrection and fire. It may now be conſidered
rather as a ſtate expedient to conſult the aſtrologer, that the enthu-
ſiaſm of the army may be fed, and ſubordination maintained by the
prognoſtication of victory.
Nothing can exceed the fuperftition of the Turks reſpecting the
evil
eye
of
an enemy or infidel. Paſſages from the Koran are paint-
ed on the outſide of the houſes, globes of glaſs are ſuſpended from
the ceilings, and a part of the ſuperfluous capariſon of their horſes is
deſigned to attract attention and divert a ſiniſter influence.
Neſcio quis teneros oculus mihi faſcinat agnos.
VIRG. Eccl. iii.
A taſte for poetry is congenial to the mind of an Aſiatic, and
cultivated as the moſt elegant accompliſhment. Ariſtotle's Poetics
are tranſlated by Abù Paſkar Mattah. They poffefs innumerable poems,
both of the Perſians and the Arabs, upon which the Turkiſh ſchool
of poetry is formed. The moſt celebrated are Baki Effendi and Miſrif,
whoſe effuſions abound in the richeſt imagery, in ſpirit and elegance.
The Anthologia, or collection of ſmaller pieces, ſometimes include
the works of forty or fifty pocts. Theſe miſcellanies are generally
called Boſtàn, a garden, as the grammarians amongſt the Greeks
made their anthologies. Many of the ſultans have been liberal pa-
trons, and have compoſed verſes themſelves. Under the auſpices of
Muſtapha III. the father of the preſent Sultan, the poets of Conſtan-
* Tranſlated by Graves, London.
392
tinople eſtabliſhed an academy where prize compoſitions are re-
hearſed.
The manufactures amongſt the Turks are very few. Muſlin and
a variety of ſilk ſtuffs, leather, paper, and fabres, are thoſe chiefly in
which they arrive at any degree of perfection. For cloth, of which
the conſumption for both ſexes is ſo conſiderable, they are now in-
tirely indebted to the Engliſh and Germans. The French, before the
revolution, were the rivals of both in that article of commerce. A
fecble attempt was once made under the conduct of a renegado to
eſtabliſh a manufactory in Turkey, but it was ſoon found that cloth
could be imported at a cheaper rate.
Embroidery with gold thread upon leather or velvet for pocket-
books and horſe furniture, is cxecuted with peculiar beauty by men,
and the wives of poorer citizens are employed in working handker-
chiefs, which are expoſed for ſale in the bazars. The poliſhing and
ſetting of precious ſtones is a trade almoſt engroſſed by the Arme-
nian jewellers, but engraving ſignet rings, which are univerſally
worn, with Turkiſh characters, is performed by Turks with great
neatneſs. The emboſſed inſcriptions on tablets or on fepulchral mo-
numents have the merit of excellent finiſhing, and the letters are cut
with uncommon delicacy. Seals are engraven from the expence of
a few piaſtres to five hundred.
Medicine is very generally profeſſed, and often upon the ſlighteſt
pretenſions. No regular education is required, nor is it unuſual
for an eſtabliſhed practitioner to find a ſucceſsful rival in his own
mcnial ſervant. The licence of the hekim baſhi (imperial phyſician)
is a mere form, often defied, and always to be obtained for a ſmall
ſum of money. Muſtafa III. intended a complete reformation, and to
invite competent phyſicians from Europe to ſettle in Turkey, but the
393
ſcheme has not been revived ſince his death in 1774. Thoſe who
have attained to any high degree of lucrative practice in the ſcra-
glio, or as attached to the fuites of grandees, have not ſcrupled to
adminiſter noftrums, always iniquitous in their tendency, and very
frequently fatal in their effect. The urgency of circumſtances in-
creaſes the propoſed reward, and their virtue, like that of Romeo's
apothecary, makes but a faint reſiſtance.
Although the ſcience of medicine, as totally borrowed from the
Arabs, from Avicenna and Averoes, be profeſſed in ſchools annexed
to the imperial moſques, where many MSS. of other authors are
preſerved, their practice is in no inſtance formed upon ſyſtem or ana-
logy. Chemiſtry is unknown, and the moſt common preparations
ſold in their ſhops are coarſe and inefficacious.
Diſtilled waters are
uſed as a vehicle in great profuſion for almoſt every drug they admi-
nifter. As few Turks are phyſicians, Greeks and expatriated
Italians find in them caſy dupes to every deſcription of charla-
niſm.
Leaving the fuller inveſtigation of the Turkiſh juriſprudence to
thoſe better qualified to diſcuſs it, I ſhall advert only to their laws
of inheritance, ſo generally miſunderſtood. The deciſions of the
mufti and ulemah, multiplied in feries, have been collected in fifty-
five volumes, preſerved for reference in the Santa Sophia, and form a
parallel to our ſtatutes at large. Ebù Sood has made a ſelection of
the moſt intricate or intereſting caſes, which is moſtly conſulted, and
he may be ſtyled the Blackſtone of Ottoman lawyers. The order
of inheritance is regulated by the wealth of the father at the time of
his different marriages and their iſſue. A regiſter is kept in which
are notified the names of their wives, the date of their marriages, and
the number of their fons and daughters.
3 E
394
By the Koràn it is ordained that the ſon ſhall inherit twice as
much as the daughter. To the wife, if daughters only are left, one
quarter of the aſſets is aſſigned, but if fons, one eighth. A man
inheriting from his brother, who died childleſs, muſt pay three per
cent. to the ſultan upon all he receives. Females inherit in the
fame manner, excepting arable lands, which in that caſe devolve .to
the crown.
When no heirs prefer a regular claim, the whole fum
is reſerved in the treaſury for ſix years before it can be legally con-
fiſcated.
Amongſt the more learned Turks fome have been found who
have enriched their own language with tranſlations from popular
productions both in Arabic and Perſic, and thoſe MSS. have long
had a popular acceptance.
But their typography owes its origin to Säid Effendi, who ac-
companied his father Mehmèt in his embaſſy to Louis XV. Upon
his return to Conſtantinople he conſulted with Ibrahim Effendi, by
whoſe joint endeavours printing was introduced. A petition was
preſented by them to the viſier Ibrahim Paſha, and after many deli-
berations in council, and with the mufti and ulemàh, a privilege
was granted them to publiſh any works, but ſuch as concerned reli-
gion, ſanctioned by a royal edict. The era of Turkiſh typography is
1726. The types, though caſt in Conſtantinople, accord admirably
with the Arabic characters in MS. Säid, during his reſidence in
France had made a conſiderable proficiency in European literature,
and his co-adjutor Ibrahim was a learned. Hungarian renegado, well
verſed in the claſſics and modern languages. Ahmed III. appoint-
ed him royal printer, and the whole proceſs was conducted under
his roof and inſpection. The patronage of the viſier Ibrahim Paſha,
who himſelf as a man of letters had founded a public library, was
+
395
extended very amply to this new inftitution; and the original
expence, with the ſalaries of the perſons employed, were ſupplied
from the treaſury. Two years elapſed before the firſt publication
appeared, after this permiſſion was obtained. It was a diction-
ary of Turkiſh and Arabic, in which the force and acceptation
of the latter terms are collated from the beſt authors. Fifteen
others by the fame publiſher have followed this auſpicious attempt,
and were doubtleſs on ſuch ſubjects as were moſt eſteemed in the
Ottoman empire. Amongſt them is a dictionary of Perſian and
Turkiſh, the hiſtory of ancient and modern Ægypt, annals of the
Tartars and Turks, a ſyſtem of geography with maps, chronology
from the creation of the world, from which period to the Hejra 6216
years are reckoned, and laſtly, though not the leaſt curious, a hiſtory
of America and the Weſt Indies, from which I am tempted to give a
literally tranſlated extract as a ſingular ſpecimen of Turkiſh literature s.
& Tranſlation from Taricky Hindil Gharbi. “ Contiguous to the above-mentioned
iſland there is an iſland in which a ſpecies of tree grows called vak vak. In the above
mentioned iſland gold, from the cauſe of its being in great abundance, not being eſteeined,
the inhabitants of the iſland make twiſted chains of it. In the iſland Vak vak there are
no inhabitants ; fometimes with a ſtrong wind ſome ſhips arriving, the inhabitants of the
ſhip land on the ſaid iſland; where there is a ſpecies of large tree, and its conſtant load,
and fruits fixed on its branches, are moſt beautiful girls, with whoſe elegant nature and
lovely perſons thoſe who ſee them remain aſtoniſhed; and every one of them is molt ex-
actly formed like other women, and hangs by the hair from the branches of the tree, like
fruit; it ſometimes happens that they all utter the ſound vak! vak ! from this cauſe the
above-mentioned iſland is called Vak vak; and whenever one of theſe girls becomes de-
tached from her original place, ſhe remains only about two days, then dying, her beauti-
ful form is deſtroyed; and it is faid that it ſometimes happens that ſome inen cohabit with
them, and they find a moſt delicious odour and delightful taſte."
In Richardſon's Arabic Dictionary under the word “ Vak! Vak! Llegile
find this explanation.
.
396
As a farther curioſity it has ſmall copper plates, moſt rudely exe-
cuted.
It is far from the truth, that the petitions of the copyiſts to the
government occaſioned the ſuppreſſion of Turkiſh typography, nor is
it probable that one preſs in fo large a city could have materially
curtailed their employment, which is much confined to tranſcripts
from the Koràn and ſelect prayers, which are highly ornamented.
The preſs continued in uſe till 1755, when Ibrahim, the original
proprietor, died. Cazi Ibrahim, his aſſiſtant, carried on ſeveral works
under fanction of Muſtafa III. till 1758, who being ſoon after en-
gaged in the German war, and Cazi likewiſe dying, the whole
ſcheme fell into diſuſe and was totally neglected. When Abdul
Hamid ſucceeded to the throne, he wiſhed to re-eſtabliſh printing,
confining it to annals of the Ottoman empire, and typography re-
commenced with two volumes in 1784. Another was printed about
" A tree which grows in ſome of the Indian iſlands, to the height of about a
hundred cubits; having leaves like ſhields of a ſea-green colour, and fruit reſem-
bling a human liead, with ears, eyes, noſe, &c. when agitated by the wind,
it bends its branches to the ground, making the found Vak! Vak! whence it is
named."
This book is the moſt popular with the Turks, on account of the ſtrange
ſtories it relates, and Ibrahim appears to have well underſtood their national ge-
nius.
So delighted are they with this incredible tale, that during Rammezan, it is the
ſubject of one of their groſs puppet ſhews, repreſented by Chineſe fades. А
great tree is figured out with women hanging from it, who fall from it diſen-
gaging themſelves by a trick of mechaniſm. Several copies which I have ſeen
of this book are deſpoiled of the embelliſhments by their more ſcrupulous
owners.
397
two years ſince, which deduces the hiſtory to the death of Abdul
Hamid in 1788, compoſed by Raſhid Effendi, already mentioned as
a perſon of conſiderable talents. It is certain that popular books of
which ſo many MS. copies are found, are not read to ſuch an ex-
tent as to render a further multiplication of them neceſſary. The
Turks can notwithſtanding now boaſt a printed hiſtory of their em-
pire as forming a complete work.
4
1
398
4
SECTION XXVI.
VIEW OF THE MODERN GREEK LANGUAGE-
ITS ORIGIN AND
SYSTEM
SPECIMENS OF POETRY_TRANSLATIONS-PRONUN-
CIATION JURISPRUDENCE OF THE MODERN GREEKS CAUSES
OF THE DECLINE OF THE ARTS-CONCLUSION.
-
Between the Romeika, or modern Greek language, and the an-
cient a ſimilar analogy may be found, as between the Latin and the
pure Italian; for languages, no leſs than governments, have their re-
volutions and their periods. The Greek claims the higheſt antiquity,
and perhaps after the Arabic has been preſerved longer than any
other; from the irruption and domination of other nations its purity
has been eventually corrupted, as from Græcian conqueſts the Egyptian
lapſed into the Coptic, and the Arabic into the Syriac.
When Conſtantine eſtabliſhed his new capital, ſo many Roman
citizens followed him, that the Greek language adopted many La-
tiniſms, and, once corrupted, the more readily admitted the idiom
and words of the French and Venetian invaders, at the commence-
ment of the thirteenth century. The eſtabliſhment of the Ottoman
empire extended the change, by the adoption of ſo many Turkiſh
phraſes and words, and the Romeika, or vernacular dialect, as it now
prevails, was univerſally eſtabliſhed". Not that one mode of ex-
À The ancient Greck is now called " Examixa," and the modern “ Pusuanya.'
399
preſſion only is in uſe. The inhabitants of the Morca and the coaſts
of the Adriatic partake much of the Venetian; the iſlanders of the
Archipelago and the Smyrniotes mix Venetian with Turkiſh. The
Greeks of the Fanal ſpeak almoſt claſſically, whilſt thoſe of the op-
poſite town of Pera have the moſt vulgar pronunciation 6.
The leading cauſe of deviation from the ancient Greek has been
the great uſe of contractions, and the blending by that means ſeveral
words into one
Gillies (Hift. Greece, v. iv. p. 398, N.) aſſerts, and it may be preſumed upon certain
authority, that the ancient Greek “ was ſpoken in the middle of the fifteenth century,
when Conſtantinople was taken by the Turks ; fo that from the time of Homer it ſublifted
with little variation as a living tongue for 2400 years.
In the Mem de l'Acad. des Inſc. (t. xxxviii. p. 65) it is ſaid that Cruſius reports the
modern Greek to have been in uſe at the commencement of the fifteenth century, but his
work is entitled " Turco Græciæ Libri octo a Martino Crufio," fol. Bafil, 1584, and it
does not appear to have been poſthumous.
b “ Barbaro Græcam linguam (inquit Gertachius) antiquiſſiinam eſſe dicunt Græci,
quando vero cæperit, ignorant. Omnium puriſſima hodie Conſtantinopolis auditur, corrup-
tiffima Athenis, Chii et Cretenſes Italica vocabula iinmifcent.” Crufii, p. 489.
Crufii, 1. vi. p. 391.
“ In paucis extant Græcæ veſtigia linguæ
“ Hæc quoque jam Getico barbara facta ſono cft.”
Ovid. Trid. I. v. e. 8.
“ Ita videmus nullum hodie in Græcâ difcrimen effe inter ?, n, 1, U, and el, 01, ai, et
ſimilibus aliis, nec in ſcriptione, nec in pronunciatione. Nec hodie modo hæc orthogra-
phiæ negle&tio apparet, poſtquam ex liberâ Græciâ facta eſt Turco-Græcia, ſed in antiquis
etiam MSS. quando imperium Græcum adhuc ſtabat, conſpicitur.” Cruſii, p. 44, 64,
244.
Cruſius was the firſt who communicated to the learned world any certain idea of mo-
dern Greek. He has given autographs of the early patriarchs, ſcarcely legible, epiſtles in
400
At what era the modern pronunciation was adopted it would be
difficult to determine with any degree of preciſion. The more
learned of the inhabitants of the Fanal ſtrongly contend, that how-
ever their language has been debaſed by the alloy of others, that
the pronunciation of the remoteſt times is continued to them, pure
and without variation". This queſtion, ſo much agitated at the re-
the vulgar, and the eccleſiaſtical or inixed Greek, from 1560 to 1570, with their reſpec-
tive addreſſes and dates, and the “ Batpaxopvou axia" of Homer turned into modern Greek
Thyme. L. iii. iv. vi.
M. De Guys offers the following opinion, to which ſober critics inay have many ob-
jections.
“ Telle est la langue Grecque vulgaire, ainſi qu'on l'appelle aujourdhui,
quoiqu'elle ait pris du Latin & de l'Italien moins de mots que les Romains n'en avoient
pris anciennement d'elle; langue disfigurée en apparence, et ſouvent par des expreſſions
Turques qu'on ne peut s'empecher d'adopter, mais qui conſerve toute le fond, toute la
richeſſe, et toute la douceur de l'ancienne." T. i. p. 99.
Cependant tous les Grecs qui ont quelque education, et qui s'appliquent à lire
ſavent le Grec literal, et le parlent aiſement, leur pronunciation eſt beaucoup plus douce
que la nôtre." Do.
d The modern Greeks pronounce according to accentual marks, which were un-
known to the ancients, and invented by Ariſtophanes Byzantinus in the middle ages.
Our pronunciation is fupported by Dion. Halycarn. " west oursediv.” A ſummary view
of this controverſy is given in “ Syllogiſmus Scriptoruin qui de linguæ Græcæ verâ et.
recti pronunciatione commentarios reliquerunt.” Leyden, 2 vols. 8vo.
When W. Grocyn of New College, Oxford, firſt taught Greek in England in the
fourteenth century, he introduced the pronunciation of the Levant, as taught at Rome by
Conſtantine Laſcaris, of whom he had Icarncd it, which remained claſſical till it was ex-
ploded by the joint endeavours of Sir John Cheke and Sir Thomas Smith, who were per-
ſecuted with eccleſiaſtical cenſures by Biſhop Gardiner for the innovation. With the pro-
teſtant faith the new mode prevailed in the Engliſh univerſities and ſchools. Gregorio
Piacentino and Staniſlao Velaſti, two Greek monks of the order of St. Bafil, publiſhed
their treatiſes in favour of the modern uſe of vowels, diphthongs, and conditional confo.
nants, about the commencement of the preſent century, which attracted the notice of
Icarned Europe, and drew from the college - Della Sapienza" at Rome, the following de-
ciſion. “ Giacchè, ſe qualchè veſtigio è pur rimaſto, cofi ſembra verifimile dell'antica
401
+
vival of literature, is foreign to my preſent purpoſe, and it
may
be
ncceffary only to ſubjoin the more prominent diſtinctions º. Certain
it is, that the modern Greek, pronounced as the ancient in England,
would be as unintelligible to them as the Italian at Rome or the
pronuncia Greca, ſembra inſieme cofa probabile molto, che preſſo i ſuccennati popoli e
inonachi liaſi conſervata."
M. Guys is equally ſanguine for this, as his other hypotheſes. " Quant a pronun-
ciation ſur la quelle on a tant diſputè en France je crois qu'on pouroit prendre les Grecs
modernes pour juges de ce differend, qui a diviſè nos plus celebres écoles. Le peuple a
pu corroinpre et alterer la pureté de la langue par de novcaux mots qu'il a adoptès.
Par une maniere differente de decliner & conjuguer, mais les oreilles Atheniennes toujours
delicates ont conſervé par tradition la douceur de la bonne et ancienne pronunciation, c'eſt
celle des touts les Grecs qui parlent bien, et qui ſont toujours choques de la pronunciation
ou de l'accent groſſier de certains inſulaires. Pour moi je crois entendie parler les an-
ciens lorſque j'entend les Grecs modernes au lieu d' sivai qu'on nous fait prononcer au
College, en marquant le ſon de chacque voyelle, dire cenè, mettre l'u a la place de o,
eequi eſt prouvé par les medailles Grecques ou on lit en lettres romaines “ OCTA
BIVS BALERIANVS." Do. p. 149.
Wheler, v. ii. p. 119.
• The ancient alphabet and character are retained by the moderns, who are ill verſed in
or negligent of orthography, both in their epiſtolary correſpondence and monumental in-
ſcriptions. Their printed books are tolerably correct. Some of them write the character
very neatly. In their books for the church ſervice the capital letters are groteſquely made
and ornamented, departing entirely from the antique and ſimple form.
Without entering into too wide a digreſſion, I ſhall remark only the different powers
given to letters which in the combination of ſyllables produce a ſound ſo different froin
that which we have been accuſtomed to hear given them.
B, connected with fyllables, is pronounced as our v, and is expreſſed by the modern
Greeks by a 7 after a u: Bacinius, vaſilefsQU WOTES, ambotes.
A and O, as the bard or ſoft th of the Engliſh: day, then. Mr. Knight, in his inge-
nious treatiſe entitled “ An Analytical Eflay on the Greek Alphabet,” 4to. 1791, ob-
ſerves, that “the ancient manner of pronouncing 0, was indiſputably that which is ſtill
preſerved by the modern Greeks, the Copts, and the Engliſh, that is, by a conſtrained
aſpiration between the tongue and upper teeth. All the other European nations pro-
3 F
402
French at Paris, if we ſpoke or read them exactly as they are ſpelled,
giving the letters and ſyllables the ſame power as to thoſe in our own
language.
The Romeika reſembles in its conſtruction the Italian and
French, and rejects the tranſpoſition of the ancient Greek or
nounce it as a mutc conſonant, and throw the aſpiration on the next ſucceeding vowel.”
P. 13. A is ſyllabically formed by T after v : WAVTH, panda.
E has a ſound of frequent recurrence, and with a certain nicety of articulation is ex-
preſſed indiſcriminately with the diphthongs ab and 01; which mode ſeems to have been
adopted from the French. It has a broad tone, as e in étre, or our a in fate.
for f, as in philoſophythc diphthong au is univerſally av, as AUTOs, autos.
I has a ſoft tone between the the g and y of the Engliſh; as Ilavayik, Panagèa.
Two wy are ng, as in the ancient Ayye205.
I medial as ee, and final as y in humanity.
K incipient as with us. x incipient very gutteral.
N final is generally quieſcent, and when preceded by two vowels, the latter is likewiſe
funk: 70 vɛpov, to neròmoto npaolov, to kraſy.
O and 2 are uſed indiſcriminately. The double oo is the diphthong ou, as in the
French.
II after u is b, and before = f, as ewta, efta.
7, incipient, medial, or final, as ee.
H and the diphthong ε have likewiſe the ſame found.
or has the force of oui in French, and correſponds with the Engliſh w.
As a mechanical mode of facilitating pronunciation, the following management of
the organs of ſpeech is recommended, as tending to the acquirement of thoſe founds which
are moſt frequent in the Romeïka.
x, y before a conſonant, as in XPLOTOS, is beſt pronounced by drawing the tongue to
the throat, and holding it ſuſpended under the palate with the lips a little open.
A as dth, which is effected by forcing the tongue againſt the upper row of teeth.
r incipient as gh, more gutterally than in Engliſh.
ſofter than A, which ſound is produced by placing the point of the tongue between
the teeth, almoſt cloſed, with a kind of hiſſing.
But perfection muſt depend upon an accurate car, colloquial facility, and long
practice.
4
403
Latin. It retains the articles and inflection of caſes, but has
neither duals nor aoriſts. The tenſes are formed by the verbs
ſubſtantive.
A ſummary account, which my preſent limits allow me only to
offer of a language ſo little known in Europe, may be conſidered as
no unacceptable curioſity by ſome readers f.
f The grammar of Simon Portius was the earlieſt attempt. Pere Thomas, a capuchin
of Paris, compoſed another; and Spon las affixed to his voyage a meagre vocabulary,
which he calls “ Petite Dictionaire.” Mavro Kordato's “ Lexicon” (as I have before ob-
ſerved) contains the moſt ſyſtematic analyſis. There are grainmars extant of Romeika,
French, and Italian, for the uſe of the natives who acquire thoſe languages. That of
Bernardino Pianzola, of Turkiſh, Romečka, and Italian, printed in the Roman character,
is that in moſt general acceptation.
With no pretenſions to philological accuracy, I offer a ſummary ſketch, noticing the
leading diſcriminations, from claſſical Greek, and its analogy to the Italian and French, in
grammatical conſtruction.
ARTICLES. The modern Grecks retain the articles o, º, jo, as uſed by the ancients,
which are conſtantly prefixed to nouns, as demonſtrative of genders, of which the neuter
is admitted as one. Plurals feminine are made by the article al and the ancient dative, as
αι ημέραις days.
Nouns are declined by articles, prepoſitions, and inflexions. Nouns maſculine and
feminine have univerſally but three different terminations in both numbers, and the neuter
but two only. There are five declenſions arranged according to the termination of the
nominative caſe.
ADJECTIVES are always prefixed to nouns, as in Engliſh, excepting by the interven-
tion of a verb, and are declinable with articles peculiar to the three genders. There are
likewiſe five declenſions.
COMPARATIVES and SUPERLATIVES change the poſitive as the ancientsFO¢05,
σοφοτερος, σοφοτατος, adding Tikewife the prepofitions σαρα and απο ; « ο ανθρωπος σοφότατος
mapa 785 alias," a very wiſe man.
DIMINUTIVES are much uſed in converſation, by the modern Greeks as by the Ita-
lians. They join edi and axi to maſculine or neuter nouns, and otga and 8/0 to feini-
nine; as, “ av&pwwedi trãiòàxs," a little man~a little boy : "fugema zapinga.," a little foul
-a little girl; but eſpecially to proper names, as lletpò.4., 2017&x.
1
404
As a ſpecimen of their poetic compoſitions, original and tranf-
lated, no leſs than of their mode of pronunciation, I am permitted to
tranſcribe the following verfes, which were given me by a Greek
gentleman of rank well known for his crudition and elegance.
}
Εις Τραγωδίον. .
Παντα λεγεις να ελπίζω-σαντα λες να καρτερώ.
Την ελπίδα να μεν κόψωστο εξης δε να χαρώ. .
.
PRONOUNS. The genitives of pronouns perſonal are always added to nouns:
πατηρμα, πατηρτε, πατηρτης, πατηρμας, πατήρσας, πατήρτες-my, his, her, our, your, their
father.
Perſonal relatives are declinable, and the others are ſupplied by the invariable pronoun
Ow8. There are likewiſe demonſtratives and interrogatives, &c. as in the ancient Greek.
VERBS. There are four kinds derivative--auxiliary Fru.at, I am, law, I will, and
exw, I have, which form the tenſes of the other; and anomalous, or imperſonal, which
are but few.
The derivative verbs are active, paſſive, and deponent only, and are divided into two
claſſes, barytone and circumflex, the former of woich have the accent placed on the laſt
fyllable but one, as ypaqw, I write ; and in the paſſive on the laſt fyllable but two, as
ypadouci, I am written. The latter are accentuated on the final ſyllable, as ayantwo
I love; and in the paſſive on the laſt but one, as ayaw gueat, I am loved. The difference
of conjugations is determined by the firſt perſon preſent and the firſt perſon perfect of the
indicative mood. The barytones have four and the circumflex three conjugations.
There is no infinitive mood, from which tenſes in other languages are deduced; but
the potential with a conjunction is ſubſtituted, as vãypãow, to write. The active parti-
ciple reſembles the Italian gerund-ypaçorras, writing; and the paſſive is pure Greek-
y papoulèvos, written.
ADVERBS are moſtly terminated by a-walcràax, very well.
PREPOSITIONS all govern an accuſative cafe.
Theſe flight obſervations may communicate, merely as a matter of curioſity, fome
idea of the ſtructure of a language upon which the character of barbariſm has been often
fixed with leſs juſtice than that of ſyſtem and refinement upon the Italian and Spaniſh.
The deviations from the original tongues have ſprung from the fame cauſes, and are
nearly equal.
1
και
405
Και με ταζης πως αφευκτως δεν αφθαξω στον σκότου
Κ' οτ' αρεσει ν’ ευρης τροπον ναμεσης σως σ'αγαπω
Ολ' αυτα ειναι το κακό, δεν ειναι τοσως σωστα.
Τα κνηματα σε όλα φαινονται πως ειν' πλαστα.
Δεν χρηαζονται ενταξης στ'εναν ερωτα πιστον
Με
με
δανεις στην αραδα των ασιστων εραστων.
Παντοθεν ειμαι με πιστην σαντα ειμαι σταθερος.
Το εγνωρησης εις τωρα σε το εδειξ ' ο καιρος.
Συλλογησετο εις τοσου κα αποκρησησε φανέρα.
Και εισεμε τον σκοπούσε και το τελος καθερα
Κοψε και το λακαρδησε και αποφασησε το πια
Και εισεμε και σε θελω σ' αγαπώ με' την καρθιαν.
PRONUNCIATION.
Σ
Ees Tragoelhee. .
Panda leyèes na elpeezo-panda leys na karteerò. .
Teen elpeetha na men gopfo ſto exees de na karò
Kee me tazees poſe afevktoſe then afthazo ſto ſcopo
K'ot prepee na evrees tropon na m'epees poſe s'agapo
Ol afta eenee too kakoo then eenee poſofe foſeta
Ta kneematàſoo ola phenondè poſe een' plaſta.
Then kreeazondè entathès s'enàn eròta piſton
Me me vanees 'ſten aratha tone apiſtone éraſtone
Pandothen eeme me piſteen panda eeme ſtatheros
To egnorefes eès tora ſe to edeix 'o keeros
Sulloghefeetoo ees toſon kee apokreſoo phanera
Kee
eepeme ton ſkoponſoo kee to telos kathèra
Kopſee kee to lakardęèloo kee apophaſeeſe to pia
Kee eepeme kee ſe thelo s'agapo me tee kartheèa.
!
406
TRANSLATIO Y.
SONG
1.
!
You bid me hope--and bid me wait
For tardy joys of diſtant date;
That time will every doubt remove,
And you will tell me when to love.
2.
The cool diffembling look you wear
Has taught me not to hope—but fear,
That though you think my vows untrue
I feel I am not falſe to you.
3.
A faith more tried, a purer flame,
No love that mortals know, can claim,
Faith, ev’n through ages ſtill ſincere,
And love by trials made more dear.
4.
Let time, let conſtancy prevail,
To throw aſide this prudith veil ;
Then freely own your true deſign,
And ſay, “ I love-I wiſh
you mine."
“ La Libertà,” a Canzonet of Metaſtaſio.
THE LAST STANZA.
+
“ lo laſcio un' inconſtante;
“ Tu perdi un cor ſincero
407
« Non fo di noi primiero
« Chi s'abbia a conſolar---
« So che un ſi fido amante
“ Non trovera piu Nice,
« Che un' altra ingannatrice
" E facile a trovar."
TRANSLATION.
Εγω αφινω το λοιπον μιαν αστατον καρδίαν
Κ' εσυ χανεις μιαν καρδιαν αθωων και κοσμιαν
Και δεν εξευρω στο εξης ποιος προτα μευχολίαν
Να ιμσορηση εις αυτο να ευρη παρηγοριαν
1ξευρω ομως πως πιστην ωσαν αυτην καρδιαν
Τελειως δεν ειν' δυνατον να ευρης αλλην μιαν
Εγω πλην ειναι ευκολον μπορω να ευρω και αλλήν
Μιαν καρδιαν αστατον 'σαν δίκηνσε σαλίν.
TRANSLATION.
I, in leaving ſo fickle a maid,
You, in loſing ſo conſtant a heart,
Who firſt ſhall have cauſe to upbraid,
Or rejoice that we ventured to part ?
Never more on a lover ſo true
ſmile or deceitful or kind
But a jilt as determin'd as you
It muſt ever be eaſy to find.
Can you
The criminal and civil law amongſt the modern Greeks are di-
rected by the preſcriptions of the Juſtinian code, under the ſuperior
authority of that of iſlamiſm, This exception only can occur, that
408
thoſe who chooſe to aſſent ſolely to the juriſdiction of the eccleſiaſtical
law, refer their matters of diſpute to their own parochial prieſts, and
in caſes of higher importance to the patriarch. If they ſhould be dif-
ſatisfied with theſe awards, they refort finally to ſome competent
court of Turkish judicature, the decree of which is deemed final.
In ſuch a caſe, if an appeal has been made by perſons without in-
tereſt, or on occaſions without importance, the patriarch has in-
fluence ſufficient with the Porte to induce them to reverſe in his
favour the acts even of their own tribunal. He can then proceed
againſt the parties, inflict eccleſiaſtical penalties, or corporal puniſh-
ments, conducting the affair with delicacy as to the matter and
perſon, ſo as not to drive any one of his ſubjects in deſpair to
become a profelyte to the Mohammedan faith. The majority of
queſtions agitated reſpecting property are ſettled by arbitration, or by
the fiat of the patriarch. Thoſe which ariſe between the intem-
perate or diſreputable part of the Greek nation, are uſually con-
cluded in the Turkiſh courts of judicature. Every deciſion turns
upon the authority of the Juſtinian code, the only legal book with
which the beſt informed are converſant, and tradition or uſage de-
termines the reſt.
Amongſt the modern Greeks, as there is neither hereditary dig-
nity nor feodal ſucceſſion recogniſed by their conquerors, the right of
primogeniture has a partial prevalence.
In the iſland of Tino, one of the moſt conſiderable in the Archi-
pelago, in which no Turk reſides, the following local cuſtoms re-
fpecting property are religiouſly obſerved. A man may bequeath
his lands by will, in default of which the relict and children
make an equal partition. An opulent perſon poſſeſſing an eſtate
and wiſhing to buy the next to him, muſt have the conſent of
+
4
409
a
the other neighbour, who is entitled to purchaſe half of it; which
right, if the neighbour be poor, is ceded for a certain pecuniary
compenſation.
The right of female inheritance in Mytelene, already adverted to,
as well as the ſingular cuſtom at a village in that iſland of furniſhing
voluntarily every ſtranger with a temporary wife, choſen from the
youngeſt and moſt beautiful women, both aſſerted by M. Guys, have
ſcarcely a foundation in fact, and certainly not in modern practice.
But adoption, fo common with the ancients, is not unfrequent in
many
of the iſlands. It is even fanctioned by a preſcribed ceremony
of the Greek church 8.
The perſon to be adapted is preſented at the altar by his own
parents and the adopter, and, after the ſervice appointed for that pur-
poſe is read, the adopted throws himſelf at the feet of his new father,
who placing his right foot on his neck, declares him to be his ſon in
future. Until he has attained to fifteen years, the adopted is obliged
to bear the name of the adopter, when, ſhould he prefer it, he is at
liberty to reſume his own. If the child be very young, the whole
ceremony conſiſts in the adopter's wife throwing her mantle over it,
who then makes her avowal.
In moſt of the iſlands are fraternities and adoptions of both ſexes,
called “ the brotherhood of the holy zone,” which, adminiſtering oc-
caſions of familiar intercourſe, have frequently led to circumſtances
which the clergy have found neceſſary to prevent.
The veneration with which we ſurvey Greece as the nurſe of
ſcience and of every liberal art, increaſes the regret that the ſame
& Voyage Lit. de M. Guys, t. iii. p. 130, 131, &c.
3 G
410
region ſhould now be overſpread by barbariſin and ſuperſtition, and
that ignorance ſhould have uſurped the favoured abode of philoſophy
and elegance. Such a contraſt has been the gradual effect of many
revolving ages; and perhaps it would not be diſtant from truth if we
placed the firſt era of degeneracy at the period of the Roman con-
queſt. The eſtabliſhment of the chriſtian religion under Conſtantine
was inauſpicious to the fine arts, few of which were employed in
the decoration of churches, and ſome of them were ſeverely inter-
dicted. Nor was philoſophy advanced, whilſt the reaſoning faculties
of the ableſt minds were engroſſed by abſtruſe and myſtical queſtions,
and the pride of ſcholaſtic learning ſpurned at the ſimple pretenſions
of moral and mild doctrines, the firſt object of which is to meliorate
the heart.
The annals of the eaſtern empire are thoſe of intolerance and
immorality; what was not immediately connected with religious
controverſy was deemed an unworthy, if not an unlawful, purſuit;
and whilſt the emperors, by perſonal interference in eccleſiaſtical, in-
ſtead of political or military affairs, ſuffered the Byzantine throne to
be intrenched within the walls of the imperial city by invaders on all
fides, the liberal arts were dormant, and philofophy expired.
We are forced, perhaps reluctantly, to ſubſcribe to the ſevere
cenſure of a late hiſtorian. « In the revolution of ten centuries, not
a ſingle diſcovery was made to cxalt the dignity or promote the
happineſs of mankind. Not a ſingle idea has been added to the
ſpeculative ſyſtems of antiquity; and a ſucceſſion of patient dif-
ciples became, in their turn, the dogmatic teachers of the next
ſervile generation h.'
h Gibbon's Rom. Hift. v. x. p. 161, 8vo.
411
The native eloquence and fertility of invention, added to the co-
piouſneſs of their language, by which the Greeks were peculiarly fa-
voured, could not be ſo totally extinguiſhed by barbarous prejudices
but that ſome proofs of genius and erudition ſhould illuminate the
darkeſt age. Amongſt the Byzantine writers are thoſe who can
boaſt hiſtorical method and ſublimity of diction emulous of their
ancient maſters, to which the florid narrations of Procopius and Eva-
grias form a ſtrong contraſt.
Many of the eccleſiaſtics at Conſtantinople cultivated with ſuc-
ceſs both rhetoric and grammar; and the critics have traced to that
ſource the original compoſition of the works of Muſæus, if not of
Anacreon.
The decline and fall of the arts of Greece may be attributed to
various cauſes. When removed to Rome, had the dogmas of the
catholic religion been as adverſe to them as the Greek, the fame
neglect or ſubverſion would have conſequently happened; and it is
from a compariſon of their preſent ſtate, under the influence of reli-
gious opinion, that the true cauſe will be found to reſult. The
iconaclaſts in the cighth century deſtroyed with indiſcriminating
rage not only the remaining ſtatues of claſſic antiquity, but thoſe of
ruder workmanſhip, which were then found in ccclefiaftical ſtruc-
Excluded and conſidered as unholy, when the work was
thus deſpiſed, no encouragement was given to the artiſt. In the
weſtern diviſion of the chriſtian church the crowded niches ſuffi-
ciently evince in what veneration ſtatuary was held. Even in the
rude centuries of chriſtianity the art of intaglio and ſculpture were
partially known and applied, whilſt the coins of the eaſtern em-
perors arc ſcarcely cqual in merit to thoſe of our Saxon or Norman
kings.
tures.
1
412
If
any exception can be made, it is in favour of the art of moſaic,
which, as I have obſerved, was invented and ſervilely imitated by the
Greeks in ages diſtant from each other, and which in its ſecond ſtate
gained an eventual perfection at Rome. The fole merit of theſe laſt
performances conſiſted in the compoſition of the materials and their
extreme durability. To the deſigns, confined chiefly to portraits
with diſproportioned outline and diſtorted features, no praiſe can
be given; and it is ſcarcely credible, that artiſts who were the
fucceffors of thoſe who invented all that is exquiſite in elegance
and correctneſs, ſhould have fo grofly deviated from the firſt prin-
ciples of taſte.
In architecture, ſince the eſtabliſhment of the Turks, the modern
Greeks have had few opportunities of ſhowing either their perfection
or inability. Prohibited from erecting ſtructures for the celebration
of their worſhip, or palaces for the diſplay of their wealth, they have
been employed only in building moſques by ſucceſſive fultans, in a
ſtyle, if not peculiar, retaining much more of the Saracenic and gro-
teſque than any analogy to the rules of the antique.
Durability, which was the firſt ambition of the Grecian and
Roman architect, was no leſs fo of their fucceffors at Conſtanti-
nople; and in the ſuperb moſques above mentioned they have ef-
fected that ſcientific arrangement and combination of materials,
which might promiſe ſecurity againſt the frequent accidents of cli-
mate, or the gradual but more certain demolition of time.
When the arts of Greece in their progreſs had formed a mu-
tual dependance on cach other, and ſculpture lent grace to utility
and added ſpirit to ornament, external embelliſhment, ſymmetry
of component members, and the general effect of an elevation, re-
A
413
ſulting as much froin an elementary knowledge of the mechanical
as the taſteful diſpoſition of the lighter parts, gave certain proof of
the abilities of the architect. We cannot ſuppoſe, from any ana-
logy with other remains of the proficiency in the arts to which
the ancients had attained, that the grand idea of durability was
ever made ſecondary to a happy deſign or a more beautiful eleva-
tion produced independently of a ſolid foundation. Before orna-
ment they conſidered uſe; and thoſe who enjoyed celebrity in their
profeſſion, could not obtain it from ſuperior taſte, whilſt their works
evinced any ignorance of geometrical elements.
With that mixture of regret and ſatisfaction with which we
can at preſent ſurvey the Grecian architecture, wonderful it is
that any remains ſhould have been preſerved to modern days by
the excellence only of their primary conſtruction, nor otherwiſe
could the power have been continued to us of inſpecting what from
its perfect conformation has ever reſiſted the rage of Goths, and
would have ſcarcely yielded to gradual decay.
Although the erection of moſques occurs but ſeldom in the
courſe of a century, they have afforded models for each other; and
the buildings now carrying on at Eyub, under the auſpices of the
validè ſultàn, the emperor's mother, diſcover the preſent archi-
tect to be equal in ſkill to moſt of his predeceſſors. In con-
ſtructing aqueducts, and other hydraulic works, they are ſtill very
competently verſed.
Painting may be conſidered as loſt to Greece. In moſt of their
churches are portraits of the Panageia of Madonna, and of the equeſ-
trians St. George and St. Demetrius, which are neatly pencilled
upon a ground of gold in a hard ſtyle like the ancient illuminated
414
miffals. Of perſpective, hiſtory, or landſcape, they have not even
the remoteſt idea.
When muſic was expelled from public worſhip, and held to
be prophane in ſociety, it ſoon became ſilent, and conſequently
forgotten.
The droniſh chaunt, unaſliſted by inſtrumental muſic, has high
antiquity only to recommend it; for the dulleſt ears would be dif-
guſted by ſuch a grating monotony. What airs are now in popular
uſe are borrowed from the Venetian mariners, and, ſimple or rude
as they may be, are too complicated for the imitation of the modern
Greeks, who can never learn the ſecond part of any tune. I have
heard the air of Malbruc innumerable times, adopted to their own
words, but never more of it than the firſt ſtrain : to conclude it, is
an extent of muſical memory which they cannot command. This
obſervation refers only to the vulgar; thoſe of education perform
Italian muſic.
Upon the ſanction of the religion of a country the arts muſt
depend. The love of ſcience may prevail in the minds of indivi-
duals, even when it is proſcribed by the laws; but the arts live and
flouriſh only under the foſtering influence of avowed and munificent
patronage.
In Italy, with all theſe circumſtances in their favour, whilſt
architecture, painting, ſculpture, and muſic, were hallowed by their
appropriation to the popular religion, we can immediately trace
their revival and gradual perfection; and in Greece their decline
(we may almoſt ſay their annihilation) may be attributed to the
contrary cauſe, as ſingularly efficient; for debaſed as the modern
415
Greeks are, no one who has been converſant with them can ſuppoſe
that, had the political character and fortune of their nation been
propitious, nature ſhould oppoſe any prevention to their maintaining
their original excellence.
Before theſe pages are cloſed, let me indulge a wiſh, that to
viſit the regions of the Levant may become worthy the enterpriſe
of many, whoſe ſpirit of inquiry may be ſupported by ſuperior
erudition, and attended by the happieſt event.
There ſtill remains
a wide field for abler inveſtigation.
1
If, during the purſuit of fo precarious a journey, ſome pleaſure be
anticipated, ſome information given, or ſome labour faved, to the
candid traveller, I have gained the point of my ambition in gratify-
ing the love of truth, which made a faithful examination of that
claſſic country an object near to my heart.
|
1
I N D E X.
note e.
note g.
A.
Barton, Sir Edward, tomb of, 133.
Baths, 110.
ALPHABET, modern Greek, 401 hot, 178, 327, 329 note e.
Bazars, 28 note e, 75.
Aiaſoluk, 225.
Belgrad, 145.
Alexandria Troas, 326.
Bells, Greek ſubſtitute for, 132.
Ambaſſadors, reception of, 25.
Beyram, 82.
Amphitheatres, 306.
Bezeſten, 77.
Ancient marbles, how employed by Boſporus, 136.
the Turks, 291.
Boſtandjis, 29 note b, 96.
Anecdote of a Greek prieſt, 378 Bow, Turkiſh, 120.
Bruſa, 174
Apollo, temple of, at Branchydæ, 246. Bryant, Jacob, 341.
at Thymbræa, 331. Buyuk-derch, 144.
Apollonia, and its lake, 182.
Aqueducts, 109, 145 note b, 205, 258.
C.
Archery, Turkiih, 120.
Armenian church, 382.
Armenians, 387.
Camel, rate of travelling of the, 7.
Aſia Minor, preſent ſtate of, 2. Camelion, 233 note i.
Cannons, large, 333.
Caravan, 208.
B.
Carts in the Troad, 356.
Caſtle of the Seven Towers, 19.
Barks on the ancient model, 365. Caverns at Epheſus, 221,
3 II
.
INDEX.
note q.
E.
Cayſter, 208.
Diodorus Siculus, 24.
Celery, originally from Chio, 282 Divers for ſponges, 259 note y.
Dreſſes, female, 30.
Chalcedon, 155.
diſtinctive, 83.
Chevalier, M. le, 351.
Chio, 270.
Churches converted into moſques, 97.
Claros, 261.
Coach, Turkiſh, 179.
Epheſus, 208, 211.
Coffee-houſes, 78.
Errors of authors, 34 note e, 40, 115
--- Aſiatic mode of preparing, 231 note f, 144 note f, 239, 246, 337
note f.
note x, 339 note b, 409.
Coin, Turkiſh, 40.
Eunuchs, 48 note i.
Coins, Greek, 271 note c.
Eyub, 117
Colophon, 262.
Columns, architectural, 329 note e.
triumphal, 112.
Conſtantine, ſarcophagus of, 62.
Conſtantinople, 13, 70, 120.
Falſe witneſſes, 79.
how ſupplied with wa- Fanal, 98.
ter, 109.
Feodal ſyſtem, 191.
walls of, 116.
Feſtival, Greek, 184.
harbour of, 121. Fires frequent at Conſtantinople, 73.
Corruptions of Turkiſh words, 59 Fortifications, 46 note h.
F.
note g
Cranes migrating, 245.
Cuprughlus, viſirates of the, 36 note a.
G.
D.
Dardanelles, 332.
Derviſhes, 129.
Diana, temple of, at Epheſus, 211.
Galata, 123.
Game, military, 69.
Gardens, 22, 118.
Ghazi Haſſan, 46.
Grammar, modern Greek, 403 note f.
Greece, decline of, 409.
INDEX.
398.
Greek church, 371.
Jews of Conſtantinople, 389.
- juriſprudence, 407.
Infidelity extremely rare, 32.
literature, 103.
puniſhment of, ib.
Greeks, modern, 5, 99, 282, 354.
Inoculation, hiſtory of, 28 note a.
language of the, 99, Inſcriptions, Greek, 68 note c, 69 note
1, 113 note e, 149 note ), 161 note
four high offices of the, 99,
Z, 162 note c, 166 note 11, 170
379.
pote y, 182 note po 183 note 4,
chief families of the, 101. 198 note 1, 235 note 111, 264 note g,
dances of the, 184, 185 note 274 note g, 29.1 noteb, 304 note k,
331 note k, 339 note e, 361 note e.
ancient, fat with their legs Inſcriptions, Latin, 17 note 11, 18
under them, 242.
note 11, 21 note r, 68 note c, 162
note 6, 219 note t.
Interpreters, 126.
H.
Juſtice, adminiſtration of, 79.
S, 248.
K.
Hadji Morad Oglu, anecdote of, 289.
Hadrian Valeſius, 115 note f.
Harem, what, 7 note d.
of the ſultan, 27.
Hejra calculated, 390 note %.
Helleſpont, 363.
Heraclea, 163, 368.
Hermus, river, 190.
Homer, 201, 274 note g.
Horſe courſe, 66.
Kara Oſman Oglu, 190, 289.
Khans, 74
Kiſlar-agha, 48.
Koran miſrepreſented, 34 note e.
Kuchuk Huſſein, 45.
L.
I.
Levant, view of writers concerning
the, 8.
Libraries, 63, 64.
Library of the ſeraglio, 23.
Jackal, the fox of ſcripture, 227,
Janiſſaries, 88.
INDEX.
0.
Liturgy, ſignification of the word, 375.
Livy, loft decads of, 23.
Longevity, inſtances of, 284.
Lydia, 189.
Obeliſks, Egyptian, 67, ib. note c.
-brazen, 69.
Olympus, mount, 180.
Opium, 78.
M.
Magneſia, 193.
P.
Manuſcripts, 75 note 11.
Maſtic, gum, 280.
Painting of the ancients, 214 note k,
Miletus, 239.
254 note 11, 296 note r.
Military diſcipline and arrangement, Palaces, 114, 117, 119, 138.
Parchment, manufacture of, ſtill flou-
91.
Minarehs, 4 note 6, 57 note 6.
riſhes at Pergamus, 295.
Miniſters, foreign, 125.
Paris, ſtatue of, 204.
Mohammedan religion, 389.
Patriarchates of the Greeks, 100.
Monaſteries, 128.
Pavia, Fra Luigi di, 200.
Moſaic, art of, 97 note c, 305 note 0.
Pera, 125.
Moſques, 51, 59, 97, 119.
Pergamus, 292, 299.
appendages to, 62, 63. Phyſic, practice of, in Turkey, 392.
Muſical inſtruments, 186, 249. Plague, 71, 106, 200.
Mytelene, 312.
of London not that of the
eaſt, 106 note a.
Pococke, Richard, 284.
Political tract, 39 note d.
Prayer, funeral, 152.
Natural phenomena, 134.
Priene, 234.
Navy of the Turks, 45.
Princes' iſlands, 130.
Naumachia, 306.
Princeſs, marriage of a, 140.
Negroes, 189.
Proconneſus, 367.
Nicæa, 164.
Nicomedia, 157
N.
INDEX.
note q.
note e.
R.
Smoking, 85.
Smyrna, 196, 288.
Rammezan, 81.
Scate delinquents, puniſhment of, 21
Ratib Effendi, 45.
Religious excellencies, 62 note k. Stings, venomous, remedy for, 288
Revenues of the ſultan, 39.
of Kara Oſman Oglu, 191. Storm, 249.
Rome, introduction of the arts into, Story-tellers, 82.
297.
Strength of Armenian porters, 128.
Romeika, 398.
Sublime Porte, 20.
tranſlations from and into, Sultan, anecdotes of the, 41.
405, 407.
complaints made to by the
Ruflian church, 381.
women, 74.
application of the term, 138
u
.....
note c.
S.
Sumptuary laws, 83.
Saints of the Greeks, 286.
of the Armenians, 385.
T.
Samos, 251.
Santa Sophia, 51.
Teios, 265
beſt plans of, 58 note d. Temnos, mount, 187.
Sappho's poem, tranſlation of, 318 Temples, comparative dimenſions of,
note i.
54 note a.
Schiote women, 282.
Tenedos, iſland of, 360.
Schools, 46, ib. note b, 63, 128. Tenure, feodal, in Turkey, 192.
Scutari, 154.
- of vacuf, 58.
Sepulchral chapels, 62.
Theatres, 205, 219, 240, 262, 265,
Seraglio, 19.
307, 326.
political ſyſtem of the, 35. - Topdjis, 96.
Serpentine column, 68.
Tradeſmen of different nations, 76.
Seven ſleepers, 222.
Travelling, mode of, 6.
Shakeſpeare, illuſtration of, 24 note y.
accommodations, 7.
.
INDEX.
U.
Triumphal arch of Theodoſius, 17.
Troad, 324.
Viſiers, 36.
Troy, plain of, 331, 336.
Ulabad, 184.
Turks, character of the, 5, 25, 65,
W.
232.
healthy and long-lived, 16, ib.
note i.
Wedding, Greek, 147.
government of the, 36.
Turkiſh, 340.
ſon born tooneat a great age, 44. Wine, Chian, 273, ib. note f.
houſes of the, 72, 308.
of Mytelene, 320.
manners of the, 85, 232, 309.
of Tenedos, 361.
muſic of the, 129.
of Lampſacus, 366.
burying grounds, 151. Women, Turkiſh, 27.
language, 389.
-- market of, 28 note a.
addicted to aſtrology, 390.
Wood, Robert, 348 note k.
manufactures, 392.
Writers on the Levant, 8.
juriſprudence, 393.
typography, 394.
Y.
literature, ſpecimen of, 395
Yuſuf Agha, 44.
note g.
THE END.
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​Porta Melundesia now called Mevlanèh-bám-yeni-kapoúpsy.one of the Gates of Constantinople.
Air hert at Tiar Sear - Tries A LA , peria Aka
The Author of this work has it in Contemplation to publiſhi
THE HISTORY
OF T HI E
OTTOMAN EMPIRE,
From the taking of Conſtantinople by Mohammed the Second, iil 1453,
to the Death of Sultan Abdul-hamàd, in 1788;
AS A CONTINUATION OF GIBBON.
h...
[ I ]
An Account of the Walls of Conſtantinople, in a Letter
from the Rev. James Dallaway, M. B. F. A. S. to
Samuel Lyſons, Eſq. F. R. S. Director.
Read March 18 and 25, 1802.
T Levant
DEAR SIR,
HE detention of my papers for more than five years in the
Levant, and the loſs of the better part of them, will ac-
count for ſo late a communication of my ſurvey of the great walls
of Conſtantinople, accompanied by ſome ſketches of them, which
I beg leave, by your favour, to ſubmit to the Sociсty. They were
made in 1795 from repeated examinations, and with a curioſity
heightened by objects of ſo much hiſtorical conſequence, and ex-
hibiting a pictureſque grandeur unequalled in any part of Europe.
The whole city of Conſtantinople is at this time ſurrounded by
walls, the ancient form of which is, in ſome parts, deſtroyed, but
which are ſtill in a ſtate of continuity and repair. Of thoſe which
incloſe the ſeraglio, which riſe immediately from the ſea of Mar-
mara, or which protect the harbour on the other ſide, I have no-
thing to remark which might add to general deſcriptions of the
city, already before the public. This ſlight memoir will be there-
fore confined to an inveſtigation of the vaſt fortreſs which extends
over the land, from the mouth of the harbour to the ſea. Fol-
lowing the direct road from Tekìr-ferai) an imperial palace, to
the ſhore, the diſtance is three miles, four furlongs, and thirty
yards, Engliſh, as meaſured by a pedometer. It would be impoſ-
ſible to aſcertain the height of the walls with equal preciſion, from
A
infinite
2 2
An Account of the Walls of Conſtantinople.
infinite interruptions which occur at preſent; but they appear to
run parallel with the road, which is chiefly formed above the outer
foſs. A more admirable view cannot be preſented than that from
the firſt hill above the harbour, near the Tekir-ſerai, or imperial
palace, where this ſingle caſtle, if it may be fo termed, is fecn at
once, as it is continued with little variation of outline to the
Niores of Marmara. This grand line forms a curve in a ſlight
degree, and there is no remarkable inequality of ground or inter-
vention of hills to divert or deſtroy its continued courſe. As it
crofles a valley of inconſiderable depth, between the gate of Adri-
anople and that of St. Romanus, and another of a ſimilar deſcrip-
tion from the gate of Selimbria to that of the Seven Towers, it
gains a more pictureſque effect from a ſuperior elevation, than as
if the whole had been built on a plain. Its hundred towers dimi-
niſhing in perſpective, offer a ſtupendous ſcene even to the
eye
of
an Engliſhman, whoſe country boaſts fo many venerable remains of
a caſtellated kind. No ſingle caſtle in England preſents a con-
tinued front of more than 300 yards; nor can a compariſon be
drawn with any other Gothic fortification, which I had before
conſidered as the utmoſt effort of ſtrength and perſeverance in
conſtruction [a].
[a] Extent of the wall.
From Haívan to Tekír-ſerai ....
800 Yards English
Tekir-ferai to Edrinéh-kapouſly .... 800
Edrinéh-kapouſly to Top-kapouſſy... 1200
Top-kapouſly to Mevla-hana-yeni .. 800
Mevla-hana-yeni to Selivrée........ 800
Selivrée to the Seven Towers........1600
Seven Towers to Marmara
200
6200
This meaſurement is given in round numbers, following the line of the great road.
Some hundred yards more muſt be allowed for the curvatures made by the wall,
where it would not be practicable to approach it.
The
f
A1 Account of the Walls of Conſtantinople.
3
The plan of fortification in the parts of it which I ſhall endea-
vour to deſcribe, is uniform, excepting with reſpect to the gates,
which have varied their number in different æras of the Byzantino
hiſtory, been totally deſtroyed in the fieges, or are now made up
by the Turks with fragments of marble or porphyry. There are
three diftinct walls and ditches between each of them. That ncareſt
the city, where I had an opportunity of obſerving it, is from Go to
80 feet high, and from 10 to 15 in breadth, (Gyllius ſays 25) with
very.wide battlements or embraſures. At the diſtance of about
50 yards, a tower more frequently hexagonal. than of any
other
ſhape, bút feldom ſquare, riſes 20 fcet above the wall, and the
battlements projecting upon brackets, very nearly reſemble thoſe at
Caernarvon and Conway. The interior of all of them is occupied
by wide ſteps of eaſy acceſs. Upon this ſeries of towers greater
architectural ſkill ſeems to have been exerted, than upon thoſe of
the outer walls. Exact ſimilarity was originally obſerved both in
their ſize and conſtruction. Several of them now attract the
as having the names of the emperors who had reſtored them in-
ferted, formed of marble or iron, in pieces of about a yard long [b].
The foſs is 25 feet broad, and now divided into gardens for the
culture of melons or tobacco. In the ſecond wall the towers cor-
reſpond with thoſe of the firſt, but are generally ſemicircular and
open on the inſide, many feet lower, and more frequently dilapi-
dated. They are likewiſe of much inferior workmanſhip. It is
ſtill eaſy to trace the exterior or third wall, which was never
decorated or defended by towers, and which has ſo far yielded to
the ravages of war and time as to fhew a very unequal outline.
eye,
[6] Theſe letters are uſually about a yard in length and very narrow, ſuch as
ΠΥΡΓΟC ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΒΛCIΛEOY KONSTANTINOY and others. .
Vide Evagrias, 1. ii. c. 17. Theophanes-Manuel Chryſoloras, c. 15. Baudoin
De Expugnat. Conſtantinop.
Where
A 2
4
An Account of the Walls of Conſtantinople.
Where it appears to be perfect it does not exceed 20 fcet in height.
It often ſupports the chioſks or ſummer-houſes which the Turks
delight to place in their gardens. Reſpecting the materials of
which this auguſt ſtructure is compoſed, there is no great variation
in
any part. It is built with hard granulated ſtone, of the ſame
quality as that called travertino by the Italians, and ſo much uſed
at Rome. From the original excellence of the lime, the huge
blocks adhere ſo cloſely to each other, that ſeparation would be
now ſcarcely practicable. In ſome parts the ſquare Roman tiles
are placed upright and cemented together, and courſes are formed
alternately with the ſtone; but of this peculiarity the inſtances are
more frequent where the walls have been repaired, or in the new
incloſure beyond the Tekér-ferai to the harbour in the weſtern
angle of the city called Blakernes, not found in Juſtinian's diviſion
into regions, but added by Cyrus, præfect of Aſia, in the reign of
the
younger
Theodoſius.
The Byzantine hiſtorians mention theſe walls as the public
works of ſeveral emperors, but agree that they were originally
built by Conſtantine the great, ſince whoſe days Theodoſius the
younger, in 447, contributed to their reſtoration [c]. Other em-
perors are partially recorded, but it is ſcarcely probable that the
ruin was ſo complete but that a great part of the firſt fortification
remained undemoliſhed. That love of amplification which is
juſtly reprehended by the accurate Gyllius as confounding moſt of
the facts related by thoſe writers; will not prevent our belief that
58 towers out of 180, the whole number, were overturned from
their
very
foundations by one earthquake only in 447; and we are
[c] Qui autem ſunt muri, quos Conſtantinopolis duplices tradit antiqua deſcriptio
regionum, hi ne, qui hodie extant, an vero à Theodofio fuerunt conditi, relinquo
confiderandum. P. Gyllij Conſtantinop. 1. i, c. 19.
made
in
An Account of the Walls of Conſtantinople.
5
made certain as to the extent of the repairs immediately ordered
by Theodoſius. Of other ſimilar calamities the effects were as
foon reſtored, and the fortification rendered as ſecure as before
The firſt conſiderable ficge fuſtained by theſe walls, was that by
the Perſians, under Khoſroes Parvez, in the reign of the
emperor
Phocas, which was continued in that of Heraclius, at different
intervals of time, during 14 years. 2. In the 52d hegira, by
Yezid, ſon of Mohavíah, firſt kalife of the race of the Ommiades,
who was forced to raiſe the ſiege; when Abn Eyub, the ſtandard-
bearer of the prophet, was flain, in the reign of Leo the Iſaurian.
3. By the French and Venetians in 1 2033 And 4, by Mohammed II:
1453,
which was continued without ceffation for 40 days, with
the moſt ſtupendous efforts of barbarous valour. Conſtantinople
was then taken, 1470 years after the eſtabliſhment of the Roman
empire by Auguſtus, and 1123 after its foundation by Conftantine.
At the extinction of the Greek empire, and the unparalleled
attack made upon their city, little leſs than the demolition of thoſe
parts of the wall which flanked the gates might be confequently
expected. There it is, that the rude hand of the Ottoman has
been moſt laboriouſly deſtructive. By inſpecting the repairs made
by them, where the former ſplendours of palaces and churches are
indiſcriminately mixed with rubbiſhi, ſome regret will be excited
by ſeeing the fineſt fragments of architectural'embelliſhment totally
mutilated or ſhapeleſs. I will now advert to the ſketches, and by
a more minute deſcription endeavour to make them illuſtrative of
ſcenes by which I was more intereſted, than by any in the vicinity
of Conſtantinople.
Ducange enumerates ſeventeen poſterns and gates, of which
ſeven only remain at this time, which are worthy remark. That
indefatigable antiquary, in compiling his account, examined au-
thors who had noticed the gates' of Conſtantinople from its earlieſt
foundation.
6
An Account of the Walls of Conſtantinople,
foundation [d]. It muſt be therefore obſerved, that, during many
ſubſequent centuries, in the lapſe of which theſe walls were en-
larged and repaired, ſome of the gates were walled up, and the
names of others changed, fo that a fingle gate has many deſigna-
tions, which occur in different authors. I ſhall therefore adopt a
deſcription of them, as they follow in order, and refer to all the
information Ducange gives usy concerning the reſt, endeavouring
to eſtabliſh their former fituations.
Nonc of the ſeven remaining gates, in the great wall which
croſſes the land, retain their priſtine form, and their preſent hete-
rageneous appearance in point of architecture is occaſioned by re-
pairs which the Turks have made. I can therefore ſpeak only by
analogy with thoſe now remaining at Nicæa in Bithynia, where
I Femarked, that they generally conſiſted of one plain circular arch,
ļ
[2] Ducange Če:ftantinop. Chriſtiana. ch. xv. p. 49.
*Porta Mediterraneze ſeu terreſtres.
1. Xylocirci.
2. Cerco-Posta, a poftern, called by Ducas, “Ilapamapriov."
3. Porta Blakernarum. Villehardouin, n. 89. 128.
4. Gyro-Limnes. Cantacuzane, I. i. c. 56. Anna Comn. Alex. lx. Pachy-
meres, l. vii. c. 28.
5. Su Fohannis BaptiſtæCodinus, p. 12.
6. Tw cowhatwy, near the church of the Angels. Cantacuzene, ko ji. c. 88.
7. Sti Callinici, a poſtern.
8. Charfiæ.
9. Su Romani.
To. Polyandrii.
II. Nova.
12. Quinti five
2
13. Attali.
14. Porta Carea. Nicætas in Andronico, I. i. n. 11.
15. Melandeſia.
16. Aurea.
17. Rhegii, leading to Rhegium, of which town vide Cantacuzene, 1. i. c. 27; 45.
This learned author is miſtaken in having placed the Polyandrii after the Romani.
and
1
Ar Account of the Walls of Conſtantinople.
and another on one ſide perforated through a baſtion or tower of
folid maſonry, without internal chambers. In the memorable
fiege of Conſtantinople ſeveral of the gates were deſtroyed, which,
with the poſterns in other parts, were afterwards walled up by the
Turks. Near the weſtern angle of the city from the port, in the
region added to the city called Blachernés, above mentioned, the
towers, having ſuffered little from earthquakes or ſieges, exhibit the
Gothic architecture of the middle ages in England ſince the con-
queſt, and are at once maſſive or elegant.
1. Neareſt to the harbour is the Haivan-hiffary-kapouſly,
known under its Greek maſters as the Xylocircon or Xylocrikon,
from its vicinity to the wooden circus[el. It terminates the for-
tification, and was built by Cyrus or Conſtantine the præfect of
the city, by whoſe ſuperintendance the walls were reſtored with
an expedition ſcarcely credible, in 60 days only, after the dreadful
earthquake in the reign of the younger Thcodofius. Gyllius
quotes an epigram from the Anthologia, in proof of this fact [f],
and adds, that ſo great was his popularity for this ſervice, that the
court became jealous of him, and that he was unwillingly ſhorn a
monk, and afterward made biſhop of Smyrna. He was the
favourite of the empreſs Eudocia, and Prætorian Præfect of the
Eaſt.
From hence to the remains of the palace, the wall is ſingle,
having numerous towers, and winds round the hill with an irre-
gular demarcation. No leſs than ſix gates are placed by Ducange
between the gates “ Xilocirci” and “ Charliæ."
II. Eghri-capou (the oblique gate) has ſucceeded the ancient
Charliæ, and is placed where the direction of the wall is flanting.
[4] Carranus De Bello Conſtantinop. p. 189, 194.
[f] Θεοδοσιος, το δε τειχος αναξ και υπαρχος Εωας
Κονσταντινος, ετευξαν εν ημασιν εξηκοντα.
Antholog: 1. iv. C. 18.
Tt
1
8
1
An Account of the Walls of Conſtantinople.
It received its name from Charſias, the chief of the Praſine faction,
who preſided over that part when rebuilt under Theodofius II.
III. Having paſſed the ruins of the Haivan-hiffary or imperial
menagerie, where combats of gladiators with wild beaſts, like thoſe
in the Coloſſeum at Rome, where anciently exhibited, the firſt
object on the brow of the ſeventh hill is the Tekér-ferai, according
to the tradition received by the modern Greeks, the palace of
Conſtantine or Beliſarius. There is a very lofty building refem-
bling an oblong tower, about which are ſeen marble pillars and
other veſtiges, which mark it as having been an imperial reſidence,
though never the chief palace, nor of fo early an æra as that of
the firſt Conſtantine. At the diſtance of between three and four
furlongs, upon the ſame elevated ground, I obſerved the Edrinéh-
kapouſſy, or gate of Adrianople, of which the fketch I had
pro-
cured is loſt. It leads to the largeſt of all the contiguous cemi-
teries, which is planted with beautiful cypreſſes in every ſtage of
growth and vegetation. Immediately oppoſite to the gate, many
manufacturers of marble tombs are eſtabliſhed, who ſupply me-
morials in the Turkiſh taſte to thoſe who can pay for them, and
there is not a more popular mode of diſplaying wealth, or reſpect
to the deceaſed. As moſt of the dead are taken through this gate
to the cemitery abovementioned, the degree of the mortality oc-
caſioned by the plague within the city, is aſcertained by the num-
ber of funerals In 1795, when I was confined, on that account,
to the Britiſh palace at Pera, I was well informed, that, for many
days in ſucceſſion, more than a thouſand perſons had been taken
through this barrier.
This gate was called “Polyandrion" from the great conflux to
it, from its central poſition, or from the multitude of artificers
who voluntarily aſſembled to rebuild it after the earthquake, in the
reign of the
younger
Theodoſius. The two factions of the fraſini
.
and Veneti, built the whole under the command of Charſias and
Magdelas,
An Account of the Walls of Conſtantinople..
9
Magdelas, the former from the Blakernés to this gate, and the
Veneti in continuation. It is not certain whether this reſtoration
did not take place in 413, when the emperor was under the guard-
ianſhip of Anthemius, or whether it may be fixed to his 37th year,
and included in the great work of Conſtantine, or Cyrus the præ-
fect of Aſia, whom Ducange conſiders as the ſame perſon, and to
whóm the epigrams give the title of Conſtantine, omitting his
real name.
Paſſing through the valley called Yeni-Backtſhée (new garden)
for nearly the ſame extent as between the laſt-mentioned, I reached
the Top-kapouſſy [8], or artillery gate, anciently the Porta Sancti
Romani, to which belongs the greateſt hiſtorical conſequence.
The Greek name it acquired from its vicinity to the church of St.
Romanus, and the Turkiſh, from having been battered with can-
non by Morad in 1422, and laſtly by Mohammed II. in 1453. I
muſt refer you to the account of the taking of Conſtantinople,
given with inimitable ſpirit and accuracy by Gibbon, in his “ De-
cline and Fall of the Roman Empire [h],” for frequent mention
of this gate. About a mile diſtant is a mound of earth (Maltépe)
connected with many ramparts and vallations, upon which was
placed a cannon of enormous calibre, which battered down the
gate and effected a breach, through which the victorious Moham-
med made his firſt entry, and where the ill fated Conſtantine Pa-
leologus was ſlain. Four large towers are ſaid to have been de-
ſtroyed at that time, and a wide ruin enſued, which, as if for
triumph, the Turks have never ſuffered to be repaired. It is, on
every account, a ſtriking point of view.
IV. Melandeſia, now Mevlaneh-hány-yeni-kapoúfly[i], or the
New gate of the convent of the Mevlaneh derviſhes. The minareh,
which is ſeen over the walls, belongs to their moſque, and the
[8] Pl. XLII.
[h] Quarto, Vol. VI.
B
[i] Pl. XLIII.
kioſk
.
1
1o
An Account of the Walls of Conſtantinople.
kioſk or ſummer-houſe placed above the foſs, where they aſſemble
to play on different inſtruments of muſick, as an act of their reli-
gion[k]. There are many fects of Derviſhes, but the Mevléveh
are the beſt received, on account of their muſical talents.
This gate, which was originally built by Cyrus at the time
abovementioned, was called Melandeſia, becauſe it led to the
town of Melantias, about 18 miles diſtant from the city. When
the Turks reſtored it, a Latin inſcription [?] was preſerved, and is
ſtill legible, cut in blocks above the gate, which is now formed by
two large ſhafts of porphyry, and a third placed as an impoſt: a
fourth is let into the wall a few feet above it. Theſe have been
taken from a neighbouring Greek church of extraordinary fplen-
dour, now dilapidated. I had now reached nearly the central
diſtance of the triple wall. The greater part of the ſpace is occu-
pied by a cemetery, between this and the
V. Selivréc-kapouſly, or gate of Selimbria, anciently known as
" Porta Rhegii," becauſe on the road to that town: A few fur-
longs beyond this gate, the ſite of the Porticus Troadenfium, built
originally by the merchants of Alexandria Troas for the expo
of their wares, is pointed out by an inſcription which, from the
fingular form and combination of the letters, I have tranſcribed.
It does not occur among any of thoſe collected by Bandurus or
Wheeler.
NEKAVEOHKH. KA. TPCAEWAI. &N,
Ww. AV'S KPA'IOP. Manaionoroc.
(Ανεκαινεθηκη κατα Τροαδεων εν χρίστώ αυτοκρατορ Παλαιολογος)
.
[k] D'Oliffon, Tableau de l’Empire Othomane.
[ THEODOSI. IVSSİS GEMINO NEC MENSE PERACIO
CONSTANTINVS OVANS HÆC MOENIA FIRMA LOCAVIT
TAM CITO TAM STABILEM PALLAS VIX CONDERET ARCEM.
Another
1
II
be
An Account of the Walls of Conſtantinople.
Another name of this gate was ITEMITOT," or Quinti, and
as ſuch it is noticed in the Chronicle of Alexandrinus, when the city
was beſieged by Chagán, in the reign of Heraclius.
VI. As the Kapaneu-kapouſly, fo named by the Turks, becauſe
cloſed up, is totally omitted in the ſurvey of Gyllius, it may
only neceſſary to remark, that it was once the Porta Attali; fup-
poſed to be the ſame Attalus who took the government from Ho-
norius. Cedrinus informs us that the ſtatues, both of Conſtantine
and Attalus, which were placed upon it, were precipitated by an
earthquake.
VII. In ſeveral of the Byzantine writers there is a confuſion
reſpecting the ſite of the Porta Aurea, which has originated in the
modern Greeks calling it “Opārce" (beautiful), or miſtaking it for
the Neorii Porta, on the northern ſide of the city. This gate is
now included in the precincts of the Seven Towers, and not in
the fortreſs itſelf, as it has been aſſerted to be [m]:
Its hiſtory is more diſtinguiſhed than that of the reſt, excepting
St. Romanus, having been built by the emperor Theodofius for
his triumphal entry after his defeat of Maximus in 388, as a repe-
tition of that he had before made into Rome [11]. It is uncertain
whether it owed its name to that circumſtance, or to the ſplendid
nature of its decorations. Upon the platform over the gate were
placed ſtatues of Theodoſius, the goddeſs Victory of bronze gilt,
and of two elephants, as thoſe animals were firſt brought to Con-
ſtantinople to grace the triumph of Theodoſius. Beſide theſe,
were baſs-reliefs on the ſubjects of the labours of Hercules, and
[m] See Pl. XLV.
[n] Ημασιν εξηκοντα φιλοσκηστρω Βασιλης
Κωνσταντινος υπαρχος τειχει τείχος." Antholog.
Manuel Chryſoloras, p. 122. Ducas Hiſt. Byzant. Ç. xxxix, p. 260. Nicætas
Greg. P. 486. Procopius de Ædific, I. i. c. 3.
the
1
I 2
up the
An Account of the Walls of Conſtantinople.
the puniſhment of Prometheus. The firſt mentioned were over-
thrown by earthquakes; and the Turks, when they cloſed
gate, cither mutilated the latter, or covered them entirely over
with morter [o]. It was ſaid anciently, but without truth, that
the extent of the wall, from the Golden Gate to the Blackernes,
was 14,000 paces. Juſtinian built a church at either extremity,
as a ſupernatural defence of the city. The preſent remains of this
gate are two columns of porphyry with ſculptured capitals, and
the arches of the gate and poſtern incloſed in the wall. . The
whole has now the appearance of a large baſtion.
At the termination of the wall ſtands a large octagon tower,
cloſe to the ſhores of the ſea of Marmara, which was built by the
cmperors Bafil and Conſtantine VII. about the year 959.
Of the Seven Towers, ſo horribly notorious in the Turkiſh
annals, I ſhall offer no account in this memoir. Although they
are connected with the great wall, they do not abſolutely form a
part of it. On a general view of this ſtupendous fortification, if
we conſider that the moſt modern tower of the whole is coeval with
the moſt ancient Gothic caſtle in our own country, the degree of
veneration which ſuch antiquity commands, may not be unwil-
lingly conceded.
During my reſidence at Conſtantinople, I was not unmindful
of the honour this learned Society had done me in electing me
one of their members, and had made many ſketches and notes
I
+
[o] “ Porta enim Aurea nunc reliqua confpicitur, fed obſtructa." Leunclavii-
Bulialdus ſays, “In marmore ſculpti Herculei labores Auream Portain ornantes
cernuntur, fed calcis albo, cum anno 1647 conſiderabam, ut et totus mæniorum
ambitus, inducti erant, ita ut oculos fugeret ſculpturæ elegantia.” This account is
confirmed in a great degree by P. Gyllius. It appears from Radulph de Diceto,
M. Paris, and Roger Hoveden, in 1189, that the Golden Gate had been cloſed two
centuries prior to that date. D'Anville, Acad. Infcript. Vol. XXXV. p. 747.
Gunther, Hiſt. Conſtantinopolit, ch, xv.
which
An Account of the Walls of Conſtantinople. 13
which I vainly hoped might not have been unacceptable to them.
From the wreck of my papers I have been enabled to arrange the
preſent memoir, which I requeſt you to offer to the Society, and
remain, with ſincere obligation and reſpect,
Yours,
Herald's College,
Feb. 10, 1802.
JAMES DALLAWAY.
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