B 338916
NORTH PACIFIC
DIRECTORY
R
TAIRE
ET
SE
FAIRE
1
Lib
F49
1. 1870

10
120
13/0
140
150.
160
170
C. Navarin
Anadir
Sea
ehring S
to face Title.
150
140
130
120
St Lawrence
Norton Sd
ALA
S
K
A
C.Romanzof
60
THE
NORTH PACIFIC
OCEAN
Shewing the
PREVALENT
SURFACE
CURRENTS
R. Amur
150
A
S
I
A
La Perouse Str.
Okhotsk
Tausk B.
OKHOTSK
Ghijinsk B.
G. of Tartary
C. Elizabeth
SEA
Currents Variable
Saghalin
Island
C.Patience
КАМСНАТКА
Kurile
Petropaulovski
C.Lopatka
Pr. William Sa
100
Chesterfield Inlet
Slave L.
90
80
Southampton
Id
St Matthew
HUDSON.
Mosquito
Bay
60
Karaginski 1.
BEHRING
C.Kamchatka
Bhering I
n
40
Pekin
G.of Pe-chili
Shantiang
YELLOW
SEA
Korea
PHILIPPINE
20
30
In
C
Nankin
Shanghae
CHIN A
H
Amoy
Canton
Hong Kong
IN
Paracels
Formosa Chi
W Monsoon
Nagasaki
Kiusiu
Chusan
Loo-Choo
Idr
6 40
Formosa
A
P
Cold
Borodino I.
Bonin Ids
Volcano Ids:
:Margaret Ids
"Grampus Ide
+
Bashee Ids
Los Jardines".
Lindsay I
Luzon
Currents Variable
Hakodadi
Yeso
Tsugar Strait
JAPAN SET
Siskok
Cold
d
rre
PON
I P
tu m
JAPAN
ISLANDS
Fatsizio
00
Islands
R
D
Uncertain
F
and
T
Variable
Attu I.
&T's chegula de
ALEUTIAN
Tanaga Pass
Atcha I.
Amukhta Pass
s. Ounimak Pass
Fox Ids
ARCHIPELAGO
CU
SEA
Bristol B.
Aliaska Pen
& W. Admiralty
Kodiak Ids
B
Summer
Churchill F
To
but generally to Westward
R
R
E
N
T
R
E
R
Fleurieu's
Currents variable and uncertain
Dependant
on the prevailing Wind
Vortex ?
Morell I
Byer Id
Nootka
Vancouver Id
Juan de Fuca St.
Astoria
Currents
C. Blanco
Pouth Sward
C.Mendocino
Vari ble from.
Arom
Farallones
May
Nov. to
Victoria
Pugets sd
Columbia R.
OREGON
San Francisco
P. Concepcion
9
Sta Rosa
CALIFORNIA
S.Luis
D
Diego
Cross
Houghton
Port Nelson
Sitka Id
Pr. of Wales Id
Observatory Inlet
N
0
R
T
H
Q. Charlotte Id
Royal Ids
BRIT" COLUMBIA
Q. Charlotte Sa
རིན་་་་ཟླུམ་པའི་
Fraser R.
WASHINGTON
BAY
Severn Fort
C. Henrietta Maria
Albany F
e Ft
Moose)
0
Richmond B
C.Jones
F. Main
50
CANADA
L.Superior
Montreal
L.Michigan Huron
L.Ontario
M
ER I
C
New York
40
Washington
UNITED
STATES
Sober
Guadalupel.
Cerros 1.4
Fr Frigate
4
Honolulu
Wake I
Kauai
Tropic of Cancer
Sandwich Ids
Hawai
X
ME
X
California
TEXAS
New Orleans
Galveston B
Matamoras
B
GULF
Mobile
OF
Savannah
FLOR
Tampa B.
Reefs
Charleston
CCanaveral
30
Bahama
Ide
MEXICO
Havana
Mariana
C.San Lucas
Tres Marias
Yo
Revilla Gigedo Ids
3
or
Johnston
O
·S. Bartolomers
I
Ladrone Ids
Guam
10
Palawan
ISLANDS
Mackenzie Tds
E
Smyth Id
Generally
Bigar
U
Q
setting
A
T
·0.
R
U
R
R
N
to
Westward
Currents Variable
1 Sulu
ROLINE
ISLA
Marshall
Colima
Mexico
Acapulco
Gulf of Merida
Campeche
G. of Tehuantepec
Belize
of Honduras
Guatemala
Salvador
20
Jamaica
Fonseca B.
Sea
Mindanao
AND S
Clipperton I.
Barber I.
Islands
Diana Sh
Sarawak
Celebes
Sea
Carteret R
B
Gilolo
BORNEO
Pelew Ids
Semavin Idr
0
U
N
E
R
C
U
R
R
N
T
To
Eastward
from
12 Palmyra
36 New York tiles.
Per
day
*
Pitt 1.
Walker Ids
Christmas 1,
Atlantic I
L. of Nicaragua
G. of Nicoya
Cocos a
G. of Dulce
Panama B.
G.of Darien
Aspirowall
CARIBBEAN
Gracias a
Dios
SEA
Leon
10
C. Corrientes
Buenaventura
Gilbert Is
Mysory Id
Admiralty Ids
Java Sea
Ceram 1.
10
Java
no
..
Flores Sea
Ids
D
Sumbawa
Timor
120
130
Equator
Ocean I
D.
Byron I...
Galapagos
Ids
Arafura Sea
140
PAPUA OR NEW GUINEA
Britain
New
150
3
Phoenix
New Ireland
Le Maire fas
Salomon
Tds
0
Quito
Guayaquil
S
U
T
H
U
Islands
A
T
Ο
R
U
Starbuck I
20
R
R
E
N
Ellice Generally but not constantly to Westward.
Payta
at from
to
25 miles per day.
Tds
4 Matuiti
Penrhyn
Marquesas Is
Truxillo
10
160
170
180
170
160
150
140
130
120
110
100
90
80
R. H. LAURIE, 53, FLEET STREET, LONDON.
OF
ICH
A
DIRECTORY
FOR THE NAVIGATION OF THE
NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN
WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF ITS
COASTS, ISLANDS, ETC.,
FROM
PANAMA TO BEHRING STRAIT
AND JAPAN,
ITS WINDS, CURRENTS, AND PASSAGES.
•
REC
SECOND EDITION.
BY ALEXANDER GEO FINDLAY, F.R.G.S.,
Honorary Member of the Societa Geografica Italiana.
LONDON:
PUBLISHED FOR RICHARD HOLMES LAURIE,
53, FLEET STREET, E.C.
1870.
ENTERED AT STATIONERS' HALL.
Vignand
6/23-32
PREFACE.
THE period which has elapsed since the first edition of this work appeared,
has had a more important influence on the social and commercial progress of
the world than any recorded in history, and in no part has this change
been more evident than in the countries around the North Pacific Ocean.
Twenty years ago California was little more than the hunting ground
of the Indians; its ports and chief places were only occupied by a few in-
dolent half-breed Spaniards. British Columbia and its primeval forests had
been untrodden by civilized man. Behring Sea had not then been visited
by the whaling-fleet, which has since drawn such enormous treasures from
its waters. Russian Tartary and its great river Amur, one of the largest in
the world, were unknown. Japan was a sealed empire, and the various
archipelagoes scattered over its surface, teeming with people, were only
visited on rare occasions for the pearl oyster or biche-de-mar they produced.
How all this is changed, the brief notices scattered throughout this book
will show.
The vast extension of steam navigation by the introduction of the screw
propeller; the establishment of sub-oceanic telegraphy; the development of
the gold fields of Western America and Australia, and the consequent growth
of the State of California; the opening of the vast empires of China and
Japan to the world's commerce; the union of the Atlantic and Pacific coasts
by the railway across the isthmus of Panama, and the Pacific Railway
to San Francisco; the transfer to the United States of the Russian Ter-
ritory in America; the more perfect organisation and development of the
commerce with the islands; with innumerable other evidences of progress
in all quarters, have so altered our relations with the remote countries
iv
PREFACE.
described in this volume, that the change is astonishing when it is considered
in how short a period it has been effected.
The present work then refers to a much more important subject than was
the case with the preceding edition; and, with its increase of interest, the
improved knowledge of its hydrography will be found to have kept pace.
As is stated in the introduction to the South Pacific Directory, this edition
is differently arranged to the first. In that, the first part referred to the
coasts, the second to the islands of the Pacific Ocean. These later editions
separate the oceans by the equator, and each volume describes the area North
or South of it, and is thus complete in itself, although supplementary to
each other.
It is scarcely necessary to recount the steps which have been made in our
knowledge of the Pacific and its coasts. Up to a very recent time the reci-
tal of each voyage was a tale of discovery and adventure. Many of them
are familiar household stories. Captain Cook's voyage is scarcely forgotten as
a narrative; yet not a century since he commenced the real work of correctly
describing the Pacific. The voyages and surveys of Vancouver, 1791 to 1794,
are still the best authority for the coasts of Alaska and British Columbia.
At the same period the Spaniards had sent the well known commanders
Galiano and Valdez, and also the unfortunate Malaspina, and his companion
Bustamente; these are deserving of all good mention. They examined
much of the Western coast of America.
Admiral Krusenstern, the hydrographer of the Pacific, follows next in
order, and he first gave a correct notion of Japan, Okhotsk, and the adjacent
parts of Asia (in 1803–1806); and, most important of all, has left an in-
valuable and noble work on the Pacific (1824, 1827), to which very many
of the subsequent pages are indebted.
To another Russian officer, Captain Frédéric Lutke, we still are almost
solely indebted for what we know of the inclement Sea of Behring, and
of much of the Caroline Archipelago. A third, Otto Von Kotzebue, was sent
by the Russian Government to the North Pacific in 1815-1818, and sur-
veyed the Marshall Islands and other parts.
Of our own countrymen, in later times, the late Admiral Frederic William
Beechey, stands prominent. His voyage in the Blossom, 1826—1828, is in a
PREFACE.
V
scientific point of view one of the most important. He fixed many positions
on the American coast, surveyed Behring Strait, the Sandwich Islands, the
Lu-chu Islands, &c. The same commander afterwards, in 1835-6, again went
to the Pacific, in the Sulphur, but being invalided, he resigned his command to
Captain, afterwards Sir Edward Belcher. The Sulphur did excellent service
in reconciling many points in doubt, in surveying many other places of great
importance, and adding a great fund of information to North Pacific hydro-
graphy. While the Sulphur was thus employed, the French frigate La
Venus, under Captain A. Du Petit Thouars, in 1837-8, collected a great
amount of valuable information on the whale fishery, besides surveying and
determining the positions of many places.
Omitting many minor authorities, the noble work by Von Siebold on Japan,
published by the Dutch Government, 1823-30, deserves every admiration,
and is worthy of a nation. Another truly national undertaking was the
United States Exploring Expedition, organized under Commodore Charles
Wilkes, 1838. The works of this important surveying squadron need not to
be further alluded to.
Later than this we may notice the voyage of the Herald, under Captain
(now Admiral) Kellett, R.N., and his three voyages to the Arctic Sea, as
chronicled by Dr. Berthold Seemann, 1845-51. These and many other works
are duly acknowledged as our authorities.
Since the period when the foregoing voyages were undertaken, the great
changes before alluded to have come over the countries bordering on the
North Pacific. Commencing with Central America, we have made use of
the work of Captain De Rosencoat of the L'Obligado, on the province of
Veraguas, in 1854, and of the observations of M. De Lapelin, of the French
corvette La Brillante, 1852.
On the cession by treaty of the Californian territory to the United States,
that Government immediately took measures (1848) to acquire a better
knowledge of its coasts, and the ultimate result was the perfect directory
drawn up by Assistant Geo. Davidson, U.S.N., from the surveys and observa-
tions of the U.S. Coast Survey in 1863, chiefly under Commanders W. A.
Bartlett, McArthur, and Jas. Alden, U.S.N., 1848-1858. These directions,
vi
PREFACE.
comprised in Chapter IV. are invaluable, and embody all previous ob-
srvations.
The shores of Juan de Fuca Strait were surveyed by Captain Kellett in
1847. Vancouver's work supplies the basis of our present knowledge of the
inlets to the S.E. of it.
Vancouver's Island and the adjacent shores of the continent were admi-
rably and minutely surveyed by the present hydrographer, Captain G. H.
Richards, R.N., C.B., 1859-1865, assisted by several meritorious officers,
of whom Captain R. C. Mayne and Messrs. J. A. Bull and D. Pender may be
mentioned. The Vancouver Island Pilot, drawn up from the observations
thus collected, forms the basis of Chapters V. and VI. It will be seen that
we have added many important details from the very interesting works of
Lord Milton, Captain Mayne, Mr. Whymper, and other adventurous and
recent travellers. To the North of this Vancouver's work still remains the
chief authority.
Of Alaska, the older authorities are still the chief, but of the Sitka Archi-
pelago the Russian officers have made much better charts, published in
1848-1850, chiefly from the surveys of Capt. Yassilieff. Of the remainder
of the territory of Alaska it is gratifying to find that our first edition is still
considered to be useful, for the United States' Government have recently
(in the present year) reprinted that portion as a guide for their newly
acquired territory.
Proceeding to the north-west, the chief advances made in the hydrography
arose out of the French and English Expeditions to China in 1854-7, and,
for the new Russian possessions, their surveys of 1849—1854.
Our knowledge of Japan has greatly and rapidly improved. It may be
said to have commenced with Commodore Perry's U.S. Expedition in 1853-4.
The singular circumstances related on page 598 as to a remarkable and
excellent native map, will be of great interest. It was drawn up by the
astronomer Takapasi Lakusaimon, who destroyed himself when it was disco-
covered that he had furnished a copy to a European resident. This has
served in many parts as a basis of our knowledge, and this, with the surveys
of Commanders Ward and Brooker, R.N., and especially of Commander
PREFACE.
vii
Charles Bullock, R.N., will appear as exact and perfect representations of
the places of greatest interest.
Of the islands and archipelagoes which are dispersed over the surface of
the North Pacific we cannot speak here in detail. Their positions and the
descriptions of their characteristics are derived in each case frequently from
many sources, which are duly stated.
To the authorities here enumerated, and to many others whose observa-
tions are distributed throughout the following pages, our especial thanks
and acknowledgements are rendered.
This volume has been long delayed. Many avocations have prevented the
author till now from devoting that time to it which the importance of its
topics would command. However, in now offering it to the nautical world,
he trusts that no source of information has been overlooked, and that the
book will be found to be deserving of their confidence. It is the last of a
series of six volumes bearing the Editor's name, which comprehend a
description of the whole ocean-world. And thus completing his labours, he
would express the gratification it has been through many years to collect
and arrange the materials thus submitted.
London, September 1, 1870.
A. G. FINDLAY.
PREFACE
CONTENTS.
SECTION I.
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS
SECTION II.
CHAPTER I.—THE COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA………….
1. THE COAST OF NEW GRANADA: PANAMA TO POINT BURICA
2. Costa Rica
3. Nicaragua
4. San Salvador
5. Guatemala
CHAPTER II.-THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO, BETWEEN
PAGE
iii
xi
1-77
5
29
43
72
33 23
63
TEHUANTEPEC AND MAZATLAN
78-118
•
CHAPTER III.—THE GULF AND PENINSULA OF LOWER
CALIFORNIA ..
119-151
CHAPTER IV.—THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA……….
152-214
CHAPTER V.-THE COAST OF OREGON, ETC., FROM CAPE
BLANCO TO ADMIRALTY INLET……..
215-270
CONTENTS.
ix
PAGE
CHAPTER VI.-VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC...
271-374
CHAPTER VII.-BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC....
375-444
CHAPTER VIII.—THE COAST OF ALASKA, FROM PORT-
LAND CANAL TO THE KODIAK ARCHIPELAGO.. 445-497
CHAPTER IX.-THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS, BEHRING
SEA, ETC……….
498-549
CHAPTER X.-KAMCHATKA, OKHOTSK, AND THE KU-
RILE ARCHIPELAGO.
550-592
CHAPTER XI.—THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO
593-688
SECTION III,
THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN... . . . 689-693
CHAPTER XII.-ISLANDS
BETWEEN THE EQUATOR
AND LAT. 10° N. .
The Gilbert Archipelago
The Marshall Archipelago
The Caroline Archipelago
The Palau or Pelew Islands
694
706
718
734
770
CHAPTER XIII.—ISLANDS BETWEEN LATS. 10° AND 20°
N., INCLUDING THE MARIANA OR LADRONE
ISLANDS
CHAPTER XIV.-ISLANDS TO THE NORTHWARD OF LAT.
20° N., INCLUDING THE HAWAIIAN OR SAND-
WICH ISLANDS.
785-817
. 818-905
North Pacific.
b
X
CONTENTS.
SECTION IV.
CHAPTER XV.—THE PHENOMENA OF, AND DIRECTIONS
FOR THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN
1. Winds......
2. Tides, with Tide Tables
3. Currents....
4. Magnetic Variation....
5. Passages
ALPHABETICAL INDEX
PAGE
906-975
907
924
934
952
953
977
ILLUSTRATIONS.
1. Currents of the North Pacific Ocean
2. Bay and Isthmus of Panama
To face Title.
page
5
3. Harbour of San Francisco.......
4. Strait of Juan de Fuca and Victoria Harbours.
5. Hawaiian Archipelago
6. Winds of the North Pacific
182
251
""
818
""
907
""
7. Currents and Whaling Grounds
934
99
8. Magnetic Variation.....
9. Passages in the Pacific Ocean
952
""
954
39
TABLE
OF
THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS
IN THE
NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
CENTRAL AMERICA.
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Authorities.
Page
Garachine Point, N.E. extreme
Patino Point, centre of islet
Darien Harbour, Graham Point
San José Bank, Trollope Rock
Saboga Island, Church
Brava Point, West extreme
Pajaros Islands, N.W. Island
Galera Island, centre -
Isla del Rey, extreme of Cocos Point
Gonzales Island, Havannah Head
San José Island, Iguana Point -
Pelado Island, centre
Chepillo Island, the tree
PANAMA, N.E. bastion
Flamenco Islan 1, North point
Bona Island, peak
Point Chamé, extreme
Parita Bay, Liso Point
Iguana Island, centre
-
8 37 35 78 41 40
·
8 6
O
78 21
21 15
The survey by
6
8 16 20
78 17 10
Capt. H. Kellett,
6
82850
78 4 40
R.Ñ., C.B., and
6
-
8 6 6 40
78 37 40
Com. Jas. Wood,
6
8 37 10
79 3 10
R.N., 1845-48.
7
8 20 36
78 24 30
7
832 20
78 32 10
7
8 II 20
78 45 45
8
8 12 30
825 O
78 53 45
79 5 50
8 18 25 79 6 30
8
10
·
8 56 32
79 7
O
10
8 56 56
79 31 9
10
8 54 30 79 30 20
13
8 33 35
79 34 5
15
·
Cape Mala, extreme
Mariato Point, S. W. extreme
Los Frailes, South Rock
Montijo Bay, S. W. pt. of Gobernador Id.
""
East point of Cebaco Island
Quibo or Coiba Island, Damas Bay, water-
ing place -
""
Hicarita, South point -
Bahia Honda, Sentinela Island
Contreras, Brincano Island, North point
Port Pueblo Nuevo, Rocks of Magnetic Id.
Perdono or Intrusa Id.
""
Secas Islands, La Bruga Rock
David Bay, Saïno Island, South side
Palenque Island, Deer Island, off S.E. pt.
Parida Island, watering-place in Chimmo
Bay
8 4 39
8 454
7 59 0 81 57 30
8 10 13
8 550
8.39 O
8 58 10
7 37 5
7 27 40
79 40 50
80 20 40
79 59
79 58 30
15
15
15
16
7 19 40
80 7
Kellett & Wood,
16
7 12
O
80 51 30
1849.
17
7 32
O
81 12 O
17
""
7 33
80 59 15
17
""
7 23 10
81 42 O
J. Wood.
18
Hermosa or W. pt.
7 24 50
81 53 30
18
""
7
6
15
81 48 10
19
""
7 43 32
7 52
81 29 I
Sir E. Belcher.
19
O
81 46 0
Wood.
22
81 45 30
Sir E. Belcher.
24
81 43
O
De Rosencoat.
24
Wood.
25
8 11 52
82 12 8
De Rosencoat.
27
82 13 40
Wood.
27
82 20 40
28
""
xii
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Authorities.
Page
O
Ladrones Islands, South Isle
Montuosa, S.E. end
-
Burica Point, Burica Island off it
Gulf of Dulce, Cape Matapalo
""
Sal-si-puedes Point, S. W. extreme
7 52 O
82 24 40 Kellett.
7 27 35
82 13 5
8888
28
28
8 I O
82 54 35
29
8 16
O
83 17 5
De Lapelin.
30
Punta Arenitas
8 32
O
83 16 30
31
""
8 23
O
83 34
Point Llorona, extreme
Cano Island, S.W. point
8 34
O
83 43
O O
33
""
33
""
8 39 45
83 50 20
33
""
""
""
Cape Velas ?
-
Gorda Point
Port Culebra, head of port
Point Santa Elena
Salinas Bay, Salinas Island
Point Mala -
Port Herradura, lake on beach
Gulf of Nicoya, Blanco Island off cape
Caldera, hot springs
Punta Arenas, lightho.
9 8
8339
O
34
9 38 30
84 367 Sir E. Belcher.
35
9 32 45
85 4 10
35
""
9 54 25
84 39
Pan de Azucar
9 55 48
95850
84 50
84 45
10 13 O
85 48 0
O NO O
36
""
2
37
37
""
39
10 31 O
85 43 30
Sir E. Belcher.
40
10 36 55
85 33 30
40
10 55
I I 2 50
O
85 46 0
Sir E. Belcher.
42
85 40 45
42
""
San Juan del Sur, South bluff
Cape Desolada
REALEJO, Cardon Island, North point
Fonseca, or Conchagua Gulf; Coseguina
Volcano
""
Port Jiquilisco, or Triunfo de los Libres
River Lempa, Barra del Esp. Santo
Volcan de S. Miguel, 7,024 feet -
Port Libertad, flagstaff
City of San Salvador
-
·
Port Acajutla, or Sonsonate, Pt. Remedios
Isalco Volcano
Port of Istapa or Iztapam
Volcan de Agua
Volcan de Fuego
San José de Guatemala, pier head
·
11 15 12
12 21 O
85 53
8659
44
O
""
0
47
12 27 55 87 9 30
50
""
12 58 O
87 37 0
58
""
Port La Union,
Chicarene Point
13 17 5
87 42 15
59
""
13 22 O
88 12 o
Spanish MS.
64
13 13 O
88 17
o
Lapelin.
65
13 25 30
88 20
65
""
13 26 30
1348
13 34 30
13 47 O
13.56 16
89 23
66
"
O
89 4
67
""
89 53 10
68
8933
O
70
90 49 6
73
0
14 32 50
14 33 O
13 53 40
90 59 31
90 45 o Harvey.
90 50 30
74
74
""
75
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
Boca Barra, about
La Ventosa Bay, Morro
Bay of Bamba, Punta de Zipegua
16 12 0
16 935
16
I O
94 45 O
95 4 37
Trastour.
Bauza.
83
83
95 28 30
Masters.
85
Morro of Ystapa, or Ayuca
15 51 56
95 43 56
95 43 56
Sir E. Belcher.
85
Bay of Rosario, Morro de las Salinas
15 50 25
96 2 0
Masters.
86
Port Guatulco, islets off
Port Sacrificios, Sacrificios Island
Puerto Angel or Port Angeles
15 44 25
15 44 O
15 44 O
17 54
Colima Volcano, 12,003 fect, summit
18 20
19 24
Alcatras Rock
Acapulco, Town of, Fort S. Diego
Paps of Coyuca
Point Jequepa
Morro de Patatlan
Port Sihuantanejo, head of port
Mangrove Bluff
Paps of Tejupan
15 58
17 32 O 101 24
17 38 3 10 30 52
5102 12 41
0 103 18 O
0 103 34
96 10
96 19 7
96 42
O
Sir E. Belcher.
89
Spanish MS.
91
O
Bauza.
91
97 30 O
91
16 15 30
99 50
Sir E. Belcher.
92
17
6
IOO
O
96
""
17 20
O ΤΟΙ
8
O
96
""
O
""
[1847.
96
Captain Kellett,
G. H. Richards.
97
97
98
O
""
100
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
xiii
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Authorities.
Page
"
Manzanilla Bay, West end of village
Port Navidad, North beach
19 3 13
104 17 41 G. H. Richards.
98
19 13 O
104 41 25
101
""
Perula Bay, Observation Cove at N. end
Cape Corrientes, extremity
-
19 34 31 105 36 33
102
""
-
20 25
0105 39 21
103
""
Point Mita, extremity
La Corvetana Rock
Tres Marias Islands, S. Juanito Island
Piedra de Mar, 130 feet
San Blas, Arsenal
Isabel Island
Rio Chametla, or del Rosario, W. point
MAZATLAN, Creston Island, extreme
20 46
0
105 28 O
Charts.
104
20 42
0
105 46 40
104
""
-
21 44 0
-
21 34 30
105 30
O O
106 38 。 Beechey.
104
106
""
21 32 20
105 16 O
106
""
-
21 15 10
105 51 35
112
22 50 0
105 58 O
112
23 11 40
106 23 45
112
""
LOWER CALIFORNIA.
Culiacan Shoals, S.W. edge
Altata, village
San Ignacio Island
Point San Ignacio
Estero de Agrabampo, cross on hill
Point Roja
-
Lobos Marinos Island.
-
Rio Yaqui, entrance
Guaymas, Morro Almagre
Cape Haro
·
Tetas de Cabra, or Paps
St. Pedro Nolasco
Tiburon Island, West point
Rio Colorado, Invincible or S.E. point
Angeles Island, South point
Angeles Bay
Cape S. Gabriel
Cape de las Virgenes
Moleje Bay, village
Point Concepcion
Pulpito Road, North point
Port Mangles
-
25 40 O 109 26 O Charts.
26 43
27 19
27 48 o
27 53 50
27 58
27 56
O
110 41
110 49 11
110 54 O
0111 5
27 59 O III 14
28 54 O 112 26
24 37 O 108 8
Charts.
123
25 39 30 109 28
286
522
24 36 36 107 52 26 | T. Warr, R.N.
124
。 Derby.
125
125
26 16 18
109 13 25
0
109 45
Townsend.
Charts.
125
125
126
110 38 0
Kellett.
126
Rosamel, 1840
126
Charts.
128
128
""
130
""
131
""
31 50 26 114 46 43
Derby.
132
29 6 O 112 52 O Charts.
133
29 5
113 25 30 Wilcox.
134
28 36 0
O
112 42 O Charts.
134
27 46
o
112 31
134
""
26 52
1
26 54
O O
O 112 29
134
O III 45 O Kellett.
135
26 30 50
26 16 30
25 59 34
25 56 0
III 25 15
111 22 15
III 5 45
135
""
135
""
136
""
III 20 O
""
135
25 43 O
24 54 30
24 24 15
San Gabriel Bay
-
110 49 30
110 35 23
110 18 20
24 25 O 110 19
24 7 30 110 16 20
24.22 0 109 56
135
""
137
""
American chart.
137
O
Kellett.
137
Dent.
137
0
Chart.
138
23
3 15 109 37 53 | Kellett.
139
22 52 0 109 53 O Sir E. Belcher.
140
-
2356 0
110 52 O
Charts.
141
24 38 18
24 44 50
-
26 42
112 6 21
112 16
24 51 O 115 47
0113 34
Sir E. Belcher.
141
O
Charts.
144
O
Du P. Thouars.
145
O
Charts.
146
27
8
O 114 18 O
27 39 50 114 51 20
Sir E. Belcher.
146
28 3 0 115 11 O
28 12 0 115 46 0
Charts.
147
148
Carmen Island, Salinas Bay
Real de Loreto
Catalana Island, North point
San Josef Island, Amortajada Bay
Espiritu Santo Island, Lopona or S. pt.
""
La Paz, town
Cerralbo Island, North end
S. José del Cabo, mission flagstaff
Cape San Lucas
Mesas of Narvaez
Gulf of Magdalena, Observation Station,
Delgada Point
Cape San Lazaro, 1,300 feet
Farallones Alijos Rocks
Point Abreojos
Asuncion Island
San Bartolomé, or Turtle Bay N. head
Cedros, or Cerros Island, South point
San Benito Islands, W. I.
xiv
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Authorities.
Page
o
Capt. Kellett.
148
149
""
Sir E. Belcher.
149
Vancouver.
150
150
""
O
150
""
0
150
""
151
""
Playa Maria Bay, Sta. Maria Point
St. Geronimo Island
-
Port San Quentin, West pt. of entrance
Point Zuniga
Cenizas Island, N.W. point
Cape Colnett, S.W. point
Todos los Santos Cay, Point Grajero
Los Coronados Islets, highest point 575 ft.
2855 O 114 31
29 48 O 115 47
30 21 30 115 56 33
30 30 0115 58 0
30 32 O 116 2 O
30 59
0 116 15
0116 46
31 44
32 21 46 117 13 21
COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
San Diego Bay. Initial point of boundary
obelisk
Point Loma Lighthouse
San Luis Rey, anchorage off
32 31 59 117 6 11
32 40 13 117 12 22
33 17 0 117 29
33 26 55 117 43
The Survey by
the U.S. officers
under Lieut. W.
A. Bartlett, 1849;
Comm. J. Alden,
1853; and As-
sistant Geo. Da-
vidson, 1863.
Sir E. Belcher.
156
157
158
San Nicolas Island, S. E. point
·
John Begg Rock, 40 feet high
San Juan Capistrano, anchorage off
San Pedro Bay, bluff at landing
Point Hueneme
Buenaventura Mission
Santa Barbara, lighthouse
Point Concepcion, lighthouse
El Coxo, bluff
Cortes Shoal, Bishop Rock 15 feet
San Clemente Island, rocky islet at N.W.
anchorage
Santa Catalina Island, rock at North cove
Santa Barbara Island, summit
33 43 19 118 6
34 8
34 15
34 26 47
34 26 56
o so owo
120 27
120 25 39
32 25 45119
5
O
O
33 2 o 118 34
33 26 34 118 28 45
33 30 O
119 2
33 14 13 119 25
O O
33 22 30119 39 30
158
159
""
0 119 9
O
160
119 15
O
161
""
·
34 23 35
119 42 5
162
""
163
164
""
164
""
166
""
Commr. James
166
Wood, R.N.
168
168
""
169
Anacapa Island, East end
Santa Cruz Island, Prisoners' Harbour
Santa Rosa Island, W. point
34 I O 119 19 C
34
I 10
33 58 30
169
""
119 40
120 12 30
O
169
170
""
San Miguel Island, Cuylers Harb., S.W.
part
34 3 O
San Luis Obispo, bluff West of creek
35 10 37
San Simeon, beach at S.W. part
35 38 24
120 20 27
120 43 31
121 10 22
171
U.S. Co. Survey. 172
174
""
Point Pinos, lighthouse
36 37 58
121 55 0
176
""
MONTEREY, Custom-house wharf
36 36 17
121 52 27
.177
""
Santa Cruz, bluff at embarcadero
36 57 27
122 O 10
179
""
SAN FRANCISCO, Point Boneta lightho.
37 49 10
122 30 50
184
""
Telegraph Hill, near
""
Observatory
37 47 53 122 23 10
By Electric Te-
184
Presidio, astronomical
""
legraph.
station
-
37 47 29
122 26 15
U.S. Co. Survey. 184
Sir Francis Drake's Bay, astronomical sta-
tion East of head
37 59 35
122 57 36
196
""
Point Reyes, lighthouse
37 59 39
123 0 13
196
""
South Farallon lighthouse
37 41 49
122 59 5
197
""
North Farallon
37 46
I
123 5 25
198
""
Bodega Head, summit 1 mile from extreme 38
18 20
Bodega Bay, Fort Ross
Point Arena, extreme
Shelter Cove, S.E. part of bluff
38 30
123 2 47
0123 13 O
200
201
38 57 O 123 45 O
203
""
40
I 14 124 3 3 3
205
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
XV
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Authorities.
Page
Cape Mendocino
40 25 0 124 22 % U.S. Co. Survey.
206
Humboldt Bay, lighthouse on North spit
-
Trinidad Bay, neck near town
40 46 4 124 12 21
41 3 20 124 8 8
208
""
210
""
Klamath River, entrance
41 33 0
124 5 0
211
19
Crescent City Bay, lighthouse
41 44 34
124 11 22
212
""
Pelican Bay, entrance of river
41 54 0
124 11 0
213
""
COAST OF OREGON.
Port Orford, summit of ridge W. of town -
42 24 22
124 28 47
220
"}
Cape Orford or Blanco
-
42 50 0
124 30 0
222
""
Coquille River, entrance
43 7 0
124 24 0
223
""
Cape Gregory or Arago, N.W. point
43 20 30
124 22 15
224
""
Koos Bay, Koos Head
43 21 4
124 18
0
225
""
Umpquah River, lighthouse
43 40 19
124 11 1
227
""
Cape Perpetua
44 19
0124 6 6 0
228
""
Cape Foulweather
44 45
0124 4 0
229
""
Cape Lookout
45 20
0124 0
0
230
""
Cape Meares
45 30
0123 58 0
230
""
Tillamook Bay, entrance
45 34 0
123 57 0
230
""
Columbia River, Point Adams
46 12 30
123 56 56
234
""
Cape
Disappointment,
lighthouse
46 16 33
124 2 13
236
Astor Point
46 11 28
123
49 32
""
""
239
WASHINGTON TERRITORY.
Shoalwater Bay, Leadbetter or Low Point 46 36 45
Cape Shoalwater, lighthouse
Gray's Harbour, Point Hanson
Point Grenville, bluff
124
0 45
242
""
46 44 11 124 2 24
243
""
46 53 49 124 6 42
47 20
246
""
0124 14 0
248
JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT.
Cape Flattery, lighthouse on Tatouch Id.
Neeah Bay, Obs. pt., Wyadda Island
New Dungeness, lighthouse on North end
of spit
·
48 23 10
48 22 30
124 45 10 Capt. Kellett.
124 36 15
253
254
""
48 10 59 123 6 7
256
""
Blunt or Smith Island, lightho. on highest
part
48 19 0 122 51 30
267
""
ADMIRALTY INLET.
Whidbey Island, Admiralty Head lightho. 48 9 22
122 39 30
258
Restoration Point
47 35 6
122 28 15 Vancouver.
260
Steilacoom, Fort
Budd Inlet: Olympia
Whidbey Island, Partridge Point
Lummi Island, North point
-
Semiahmoo Bay, Parallel station
47 9 50
17 1 30122 51
48 12 30 122 45
48 44 53 122 42 12
49 0 0 122 45 30
122 32 0
262
0
263
""
0
266
""
269
""
Captain G. H.
269
Richards.
Lopez Island, Cape Colville, S.E. point
San Juan Island, H. B. Co.'s post at S. end
48 25 35 122 48 30
274
""
48 27 45 123 2 0
293
""
xvi
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC.
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Authorities.
Page
Port San Juan, Pinnacle Rock, North side
of bay
48 33 30
124 27 37
Comm. Wood.
316
Sooke Inlet, Secretary Island
48 19 35
123 42 40
D. Pender, R.N.
317
Race Island, lightho. on Great Race Rock 48 17 45
123 32 15
318
Esquimalt Harbour, Duntze Head
48 25 49
123 26 45
H.
G. Ĥ. Richards.
320
VICTORIA HARBOUR, Laurel point
48 25 22
123 23 2
322
""
Barclay Sound, Cape Beale, S.E. point
48 47 48
125 12 52
328
Observ. islet, Island harb.
48 54 41
125 16 54
336
""
""
Observ. Id., Alberni canal
Stamp harbour
Clayoquot Sound, Observ. I., Hecate Bay
-
49 13 46
124 50 7
331
""
49 15 22
125 56 1′
343
Refuge Cove, village on West side
49 20 50
126 16 40
""
Hesquiat Harbour, boat cove
•
49 27 31
126 25 27
347
""
Estevan Point, South extreme
49 22 7
126 32 32
348
"2
Nootka Sound, Friendly Cove
49 35 31
126 37 32
351
""
Nuchatlitz Inlet, Port Langford, Colwood
Islet
49 47 20
126 57 5
355
""
Esperanza Inlet, rock, Queen's cove
Kyuquot Sound, Shingle point, at entrance
of Narrowgut creek
Nasparti Inlet, Head beach
Cape Cook or Woody Point, Solander Id.
Quatsino Sound, Observ. islet, Koprino
harbour
49 52 45
126 59 55
357
-
49 59 55
127 9 30
360
50 11 21
127 37 58
364
""
·
50 6 31
127 57 20
365
""
rock, North harbour
50 30 0127 52 16
50 29 25 128 3 39
371
☺
370
""
""
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
Point Roberts, Parallel station, W. side
Fraser River entrance, Garry point
New Westminster, Military barracks
Burrard Inlet, English Bay, Government
49 0 0
123 5 26
""
379
49 7 4
123 12 1
380
""
49 13 1
122 54 26
383
reserve
49 16 18
123 12 0
385
Nanaimo Harbour, Dr. Benson's house
Howe Sound, Plumper Cove
49 10 15
123 56 36
389
49 24 39
123 29 20
391
""
Nanoose Harbour, Entrance Rock
49 15 43
124 8 6
Baynes Sound, Henry Bay, Beak point
Quathiasky Cove, Valdes Island, S. point
Knox Bay, Thurlow island, Stream at head
of bay
Port Neville, Robber's nob
Port Harvey, Tide pole islet
-
Alert Bay, Cormorant island, Yellow bluff -
Beaver Harbour, Fort Rupert, Shell islet 50 42 36 127 25 7
Port Alexander, Goletas channel, islet in
centre of port
Bull Harbour, Hope island, North point,
Indian island
Triangle Island, Scott islands, W. point
Cape Scott, summit of cape
Cape Caution
393
-
49 36 29
124 51 18
398
""
50 2 42
125 14 38
411
""
50 24 15
125 39 0
414
""
1
50 31 9
126 4 21
415
""
50 33 58
50 35 2126 57 30
126 16 40
416
""
419
""
50 50 49 127 39 57
421
-
-
50 54 47
50 51 53
127 56 3
129 6 32
422
""
424
50 46 41
128 26 45
425
-
51 12 0127 57 30
426
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
xvii
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Authorities.
Page
Virgin Rocks
Pearl Rocks
Smith Inlet, islet off entrance
Rivers Canal, entrance
Calvert Island, South point
Fitzhugh Sound, Pt. Walker
Restoration Cove
Burke Canal
Fisher Canal, Port John
Milbank Sound, Cape Swaine
Milbank Sound, Fort M'Loughlin
Mussel Canal, Poison Cove
Gardner Canal, Pt. Staniforth
51 19
0 128 19
128 19 0 Vancouver.
426
51 24
0128 7 0
426
""
51 18 0 128 1 0
426
""
51 25 0127 53 0
426
""
51 25 40
128 1 30
426
""
51 57 0
127 57 0
427
""
52 1 30
127 47
0
427
""
52 26
0127 31
0
428
""
52 7
0127 59
0
428
""
52 13
0
0128
128 30
0
428
""
52 12
0
128 24
0
429
""
52 55
0
128 10 0
429
""
53 54
0128 44 0
430
""
Canal de Principe, Pt. Stephens
53 28
0129 48 0
432
""
Port Essington, Pt. Lambert
54 10 20 130 2 30
431
""
Stephen Island, rocks off N.W. side
54 17 0
130 48 0
431
""
Point Maskelyne, entrance of Works canal
54 42 0
130 24 0
432
""
Fort Simpson, anchorage
54 34 0
130 25 30
433
Observatory Inlet, Salmon Cove
55 15 34 129 52 30
434
""
55 45 0130 5 0
434
Portland Canal, head
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
Cape St. James
Houston Stewart Channel, Forsyth Pt.
Cumshewas Harbour, I. North of entr.
Skidegate Channel, Bar rock at E. entr.
Cape Ball
Ymbisible or Rose Pt.
""
extremity of reef
Virago Sound, Inskip point
Langara or North Id., North pt.
Hippah Island, West point
Skidegate Channel, Point Buck
Port Kuper, Sansum Island in Mitchell
Harbour
Cape Henry
Tasso Harbour, entrance
Anthony Island, South point
-
51 57
0 130 52
0
Russian Chart.
437
52 9 0
131 7
0
Mr. Inskip, 1855,
437
53 1 0
131 22
0
and H. B. Co.
438
53 22 30
131 40
d
438
""
53 42
0131 36
0
438
""
54 13 0 131 22
0
439
">
54 15 0
54 2
54 21
53 33
53 9
131 11 0
0 |132 16 0
0133 0 0
0132 57 0
0132 25 0
439
440
0
440
""
440
""
441
""
52 56 31 132 9 40
52 56 0 131 22 0
52 37 0132 2 0
52 5 0 131 17 0
G. Moore, R.N.
Chart, &c.
441
442
442
""
""
442
COAST OF ALASKA.
Cape Fox
Tongass, U.S. post
Cape Northumberland
Behm Canal, Point Sykes
55 6
54 45 0 130 49 0
54 42 0 130 29 0
54 52 0131 15 0
0131 7
Vancouver.
449
449
450
""
0
450
""
New Eddystone Rock
55 29 0 130 55
0
450
""
point
Revilla-Gigedo Island, Point Whaley, N.
Port Stewart, Islet on S. W. side
55 56 0 131 18
0
451
""
Cape Caamano
55 38 15131 47
55 29
0
451
""
0131 54
0
452
""
Duke of Clarence Strait, Point Percy
54 55 40 |131 31
0
453
""
""
Cape de Chacon
54 43
0131 56
0
453
""
Prince Ernest Sound, Point le Mesurier
55 46
0132 13
0
453
""
Point Warde
56 9
0 132 0
0
454
""
Point Highfield
56 34
0 132 22
0
454
""
Etoline Harbour, Wrangel, U.S. post
56 31
0132 20
0
454
""
1
North Pacific.
c
xviii
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Authorities.
Page
Fort Stikine (H. B. C. post)
Point Howe
Port Protection, Point Baker
Port Beauclerc, Islet off
Point St. Albans
Cape Decision
Cape Pole
Cape Addington
56 40 Ő
Vancouver.
454
56 34 0
132 48
0
454
""
56 20 30 133 36
0
455
""
56 15
0133 48
0
456
""
56 7
0133 35
0
457
""
56 2
0134 3
0
457
""
55 58
0133 45
0
457
""
55 27 0 133 48
0
457
""
55 12 30 |133 36
55 1 0133 29
0
458
""
0
458
-
55 48
0
56 17 0
133 32
134 11 0
0
459
459
56 31
0
134 16
0
459
""
56 51
0
134 22
0
459
57 2
0
133 58 0
469
57 1 0
134 32
0
460
""
57 10 0
134 5 0
460
""
57 11 0
133 25 30
460
""
57 19 30
133 26 0
461
""
57 54
0133 37
0
462
35
58 24 0 134 59
0
463
""
57 28
0134 39
0
464
""
58 7 30
134 57
0
464
58 12 0
59 2
135 4
0
465
""
0
135 23
0
465
وو
Cape San Bartolomé
Rasa Island, or Wolf Rock
South point
San Carlos, Douglas, or Forrester Island,
Christian Sound, Port Malmesbury
Point Ellis
Prince Frederick Sound, Point Kingsmill -
Pt. Camden, Pt. Macartney
Admiralty Island, Point Gardner
Cape Fanshaw
Point Nepean
Stephens Passage, Port Houghton, N. pt.
""
Port Snettisham, Taco,
H.B.C. establishment
Point Retreat
Point Marsden
Chatham Strait, Hood Bay, Point Samuel
Lynn Canal, Point Couverden
""
Seduction Point
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
Cape Ommaney, Wooden Island
Port Conclusion, Ship's Cove -
Point Augusta
Point Adolphus
Port Althorp, entrance
Cape Cross
Portlock Harbour
Cape Edward
Bay of Islands, Poin' Amelia
Kruzov Island, Cape Edgcumbe
Sitka or Norfolk Sound, Novo Arkhangel,
Arsenal
Point Wodehouse
Cross Sound, Pt. Wimbledon
Cape Spencer
Cape Fairweather
Mount Fairweather
Behring Bay, Cape Phipps
""
""
""
Port Mulgrave, Pt. Turner
Digges Bay, Pt. Latouche
Point Manby
Point Riou
-
Mount St. Elias, 14,987 feet
Pamplona Rock
Cape Suckling
Kaye Island, Cape Hamond
Prince William Sound, Cape Witshed
Cape Hinchinbrook
""
Port Etches, Phipps Pt.
* A
""
Port Gravina, S.E. point
Snug Corner Bay
56 10
0134 33 0
467
""
56 15 0 134 33 30
468
""
58 3 30 135 1 0
58 18
58 12 0
468
"
0138 42 0
468
136 16 0
469
""
57 56 0
136 28
0
471
99
57 44 0
57 39 0
136 11 0
136 10 0
471
""
471
""
57 17 0
135 46 0
472
""
-
57
0 20
135 46 30
Russian Chart,
472
1848.
57
·
59 33
2 45
56 47 0 135 41 0
58 19 0 136 15 0
58 14 0136 35
58 50 30 137 50 0
58 54 0 137 38
0139 47 0
135 17 40
Russian Chart
472
and Vancouver.
473
470
0
469
""
476
""
0
476
""
477
-
59 32 30
59 51 0
59 42 0
59 54 0
60 18 0
139 43
0
Sir E. Belcher.
477
139 32
0
Vancouver.
478
140 13
141 14
140 52 0
0
479
0
Sir E. Belcher.
479
480
"
59 3
0
142 15
0
Spanish Chart.
480
60 1
0
143 54
0
ib.; Sir E. Belcher. 481
-
59 47 0
144 28 0
Vancouver.
482
60 29
0
145 47 30
482
""
60 16 30
146 27 0
483
""
-
60 21 12 146 32 0 Sir E. Belcher.
0
60 41 0 145 18
60 45 0 146 35 0 Vancouver.
483
484
484
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
xix
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Authorities.
Page
//
Point Culross
""
""
""
Port Chalmers, peninsula
Prince William Sound, Pt. Valdes, Pt.
Freemantle
Montagu Island, South point
Cape Puget
Chiswell Islands, South group
Pie Islands, South extreme
Point Gore
Cook Inlet, Cape Elizabeth
-
60 57 0146 49
0 Vancouver.
485
60 44 30
147 52 0
485
""
59 46 0
147 30
0
487
""
-
60 16
0
146 50
0
487
""
59 55
0148 8 0
486
""
59 31
0 149 2
0
488
"
59 19
0149 51
0
488
59 11
0 150 22
0
488
""
59 9
0
151 18
0
488
"
""
Port Chatham, watering place
Point Bede
59 14 0
151 8
0
489
59 19 30
151 27
0
489
""
>>
>>
West Foreland
""
North Foreland
>>
St. Augustin
Cape Douglas
Tschougatschouk Bay, Anchor
Point
Coulgiack Island, Coal Bay
Cook Inlet, Ouchouganat Island, or Mount
59 39
0151 24 0
490
-
60 27
0151 31
0
491
60 42
0
151 12 0
491
61 4
0
150 35
0
492
""
59 22
0 153 0
0
490
""
58 52
0152 51
0
490
""
""
St. Paul Harbour
""
""
""
KODIAK ARCHIPELAGO.
Kodiak Island, Greville or Tolstoy Cape
Chiniatskoy Bay, Gorbon Rock
Igatskoy Bay, Cape Tonkoy
Kiluden Bay, Nahchmood sett.
Cape Trinity
57 34
0151 48 0
Lisiansky.
496
-
57 41
0151 55 0
494
""
57 47
0152 4
0
494
""
-
57 25
0151 57
0
496
""
57 17
0152 34 0
496
""
56 45
0153 33 0
Vancouver.
496
Peninsula of Aliaska, Poualo Bay
57 46
0155 0 0
Wassilieff.
501
""
""
Wrangell Harb., S.W. side
Evdokeeff Islands, S. isld.
St. Stephen Island
56 59
3 155 57 0
501
""
56 0
0156 22 0 Golownin.
501
56 10
0 155 22 0
(Krusenstern.)
502
""
""
""
Tschirikoff Island, N.E. pt.
Schumagin Islands, Ounga
55 56
0155 0
0 0 Vancouver.
502
""
""
North point
Kagay Id.
-
55 42
0
160 50
0 Sarytscheff.
502
55 5
0
160 33 0
502
""
""
""
Tagh - Kiniagh
Island
54 46
0159 40
0 159 40
0
Golownin.
502
Sannah or Halibut Id., cent.
54 27
0
0 162 50
162 50 0
0
Sarytscheff.
503
ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
Ounimak Id., Chichaldinskoi volcano
Cape Mordvinoff
54 45
0163 59 0
505
""
54 51
0164 29
0
506
""
Krenitzin Islands, Ougamok Island
54 17
0
0 164 47
164 47
0 Kotzebue.
506
Tigalga Island, centre
54 5
0
165
0
0
506
""
Akoun Island, North point
54 22 0
165 40
0
507
""
Ounalashka Island, S. W. point
53 13 0
167 47
0
Lutke.
507
Port Illuluk
53 22 25
|167 32 0
Kotzebue.
507
Oumnak Island, Cape Sigak
52 50 0
168 42
0
509
""
Joann Bogosloff Island
53 56 20
167 58
0
Sarytscheff.
510
Younaska Island
52 40 0 170 15 0
Kotzebue.
510
Amoughta Island, centre
Seguam Island
52 33 0 171
52 22
4 0
Tebenkoff.
511
0172 18 0
511
""
Amlia Island, East Cape
52 6 30
172 50
0
0
Lutke.
512
Atkha Island, Korovinskaia Bay, S. cape
52 12 50
174 20 0
Inghestrom and 513
Nikolskoi Village
52 17 18
174 12 0
""
Sitkhin Island, centre
52 4 30
Adakh Island, North end
Kanaga Island, North point
176 2
52 4 6 176 20
52 4 0176 50 0
0
Etoline.
Stanikowitch.
513
514
0 Inghestrom.
514
514
XX
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
Lat.
North.
Long.
Authorities.
Page
Tanaga Island, N.W. peak
Goreloy or Burnt Island
Long. W.
0
51 59 0 178 10 0 Sarytscheff.
514
51 56
0178 40 0
514
""
Amatignak Island
Semisopochnoi, or Seven Mountains Id.
Amtschitka Island, West point
51 5
0178 55 0
515
Long. E.
51 59
0
179 45 57 Inghestrom.
515
51 43 0
178 45 0
515
""
""
Kirilovskaia Bay
51 27 1
179
179 9 54
515
""
Kryci or Rat Island
51 45 0
179 20 0
516
Kiska Island, North point
52 22
0177 50 0
516
Bouldyr Island, centre
52 40
0 176 13 0
516
Semitsch Island
53 6
0174 0 0
516
Agattou Island
52 43
0173 37 0
516
Attou Island, Tschitschagoff Bay
52 56
0 173 20 0 Etoline.
516
SEA OF BEHRING.
Point Krenitzin
Izenbek (or Cte. Heiden) Bay, Cape Glaze-
nap, or Mitkoff
Amak or Aamak Island, South extreme
Cape Roshnoff
Moller Bay, Kritskoi Island, E. point
Cape Séniavine
Cape Strogonoff
Cape Menchikoff
Ougatchik, or Soulima River, Cape Greig
Bristol Bay, Cape Tschitchagoff.
River Nanek, Paougvigumut village
Chramtschenko Bay, Cape Constantine
Nouchagak River, Fort Alexandroffsk
Hagemeister Island, Calm Point
Cape Newenham
Bay of Good News, N. pt. of entrance
Kuskowine River, N. W. point
Cape Avinoff
Nuniwak Island, N.E. extreme
•
518
55 14
8 162 50 7
Lutke.
518
•
55 25
0163 1 5
Stanikowitch.
518
•
55 58
0 161 0
0
518
""
56 0 0
7
160 41 0
519
56 23
7
160 2
7
519
•
""
56 52 0
158 51 0
519
""
57 30
4
57 43
157 58
0157 47 2
5
520
""
520
58 17
0157 34
0
520
·
""
58 42
1 157 0 5
520
""
58 29
0 158 45
0 Von Wrangel.
520
58 57
0158 18
0
521
•
"
58 25
0 160 55 0
Chramtschenko.
521
•
•
58 42
0
162 24
0
Cook, 1778.
521
59 3
9
161 53 0
Etoline.
522
59 50
0 162 10
59 50
0 162 10 0
0164 0 0
Chramtschenko.
521
522
60 32
0 165 30 0
Wassilieff.
522
•
S.E. point
Cape Vancouver
60 0
0 165 3 0
522
•
60 44 0 165
0165 0
0
Etoline.
522
•
Cape Romanzoff
Yukou River, Aphoon Mouth
Cape Stephens
Chaktolimout Bay, Tebenkoff Cove
Fort Michaelooski
Unalachleet, trading port
Cape Denbigh, Fort St. Michael
61 51 32 166 28 0
Chramtschenko.
522
•
63 10 0
164 5
0
Zagoskin.
524
•
63 35 0
162 19
0
Cook.
524
•
Cape Darby
Golovnine Bay, Stone Mole
Aziak or Sledge Island, 642 feet
Point Rodney, northern peak
Port Clarence, Point Spencer
65 16 40
•
Oukivok, or King's Island, 756 feet
Cape York
64 58 49
63 28 30 161 52
63 21 0161 51
63 53 33 160 30 16
64 19 0 161 10 0
64 21 0163 0 0
64 26 42 163 8 0
64 31 0 166 9 0
64 42 10 166 17 50
166 47 50
167 57 47
0
Tebenkoff.
524
0
Kellett.
524
Zagoskin.
525
Cook.
526
526
Tebenkoff.
526
Cook.
527
Beechey.
527
527
""
Cook.
527
65 24 10
167 19 40
Beechey.
529
CAPE PRINCE OF WALES (West Cape of
America), bluff
Diomede Islands, Fairway Rock, centre
65 33 30
167 59 10
529
""
65 38 40
•
168 43 45
Long. W.
530
""
St. Lawrence Island, Schischmareff point
63 46 0161 41 0 Schischmareff.
531
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
xxi
Cape Nygtchygan
Cape Neegtchan
Cape Mertens
Ittygran
St. Lawrence Island, N. point
·
St. Matthew Island (Matvoi, or Gore's Id.)
""
""
Cape Upright, S.E. point
Cape Gore
Morjovi Island, N. point
Pribuiloff Islands, St. George's Id., E. pt.
St. Paul's Id., Sivoutchi Islet
COAST OF ASIA.
EAST CAPE of Asia
St. Lawrence Bay, Cape le Krleougoun
Cape Pnaougoun
Metchigmensk Bay, entrance
Cape Khaluetkin
Arakamtchetchen Island, Cape Kyghyuin
Island, Cape Postels
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Authorities.
Page
63 12 0 159 50 0 Schischmareff.
50"0
531
60 18 0 172 4 0
60 30 0 172 50
Lutke.
531
0
531
""
60 44
0172 52
0
532
""
56 38
0 169 10
0
533
•
57 5 0
0
169 51 o Tchistiakoff.
534
66 3 0
65 29 40
169 44
171 0 0
0
Beechey.
536
Lutke.
536
65 37 30
170 53 30
536
•
""
65 30 30 172 0 0
538
65 15 0 172 10 0
538
65 2 0172 0 0
538
""
64 55 30 172 17 30
539
""
64 46 0 172 7 0
540
""
64 33 15 172 20
0
540
""
64 37 0172 21
0
541
""
Cape Tchaplin
64 24 30
172 14
0
وو
541
Cape Tchoukotskoi
64 16 0
173 10 0
541
Port Providence, Emma Harbour
64 25 55
173 7 15
Moore, 1849.
543
Cape Spanberg
64 42 30
174 42 0
Lutke.
543
Cape Attcheun
Transfiguration Bay
Cape Behring
Gulf of St. Croix, Cape Meetchken
65 28 40
""
Mount Linlingai, 1,462 feet
65 36 30
River Anadyr, mouth
64 50
•
Cape St. Thaddeus
62 42
64 46 0 175 28 0
64 50 0175 25 0
65 0 30 175 57 0
178 47 0
178 17 0
Long. East.
0178 40 0
0179 38
543
""
543
""
544
544
545
Charts.
546
0
Lutke.
546
Archangel Gabriel Bay, N. point of entr.
Cape Navarin, 2,512 feet
62 28
0 179 22 0
•
""
546
62 16
0179 4 30
546
""
Cape Olutorskoi
59 58 0
170 28 0
547
""
Cape Govenskoi
59 50 0
166 18
0
""
547
Cape Ilpinskoi
•
Verkhotoursky, or Little Karaghinsky Id.
59 48 30
59 37 30
165 57
165 43
0
""
547
0
""
547
Commander Islands, Behring Island, Cape
Khitroff
""
""
""
Medny or Copper Island, settlement
Cape Youchin
W. extremity
•
·
""
""
29
54 56 0
55 25 0
55 17 2 165 49 57
54 47 0 168 0 0
S.E. extremity 54 32 24 168 9 0
N.W. extremity 54 52 25 167 31
166 43 0
165 58 0
""
548
548
Beechey.
548
Charts.
549
Golownin.
549
0
""
549
KAMCHATKA.
Karaghinsky Island, Cape Golenichtcheff. 59 13 30
""
Cape Krachenninikoff 58 28 0 163 32 0
164 40 0 Lutke.
551
552
Cape Ilpinskoi
59 48 30 165 57
0
552
Cape Kouzmichtcheff
•
Karaghinskaia Bay, mouth of the Karaga
59 5 0163 19
59 8 0 162 59 0
0
""
552
""
552
Cape Oukinskoi
S. point
58 55 0 163 2 0
57 58 0 162 47
""
552
0
""
552
Cape Ozernoi .
57 18 0 163 14
0
""
553
xxii
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
River Stolbovskaia
Cape Stolbovoi
Cape Kamptschatskoi
•
Klutchevskoi Volcano, 15,766 feet
Cape Kronotskoi
Kronotskoi Volcano, 10,610 feet
Cape Shipounsky
Villeuchinsky Peak, 7,372 feet
Avatcha or A watska Volcano, 11,500 feet
AVATCHA BAY, church at Petropaulovski
Cape Gavareah
Cape Lopatka
Lat.
North.
Long.
East.
Authorities.
Page
56 40 30 162 390 Lutke.
56 40 30 163 21 0
553
553
""
56 10
0163 25 į
553
"",
56 8
0 160 45
0
553
""
54 54 0
162 13
0
554
""
54 45
0160 37 0
554
""
53 6 0 160 4 0
554
52 39 43
158 20 39 Beechey.
557
53 20 1
558
•
""
53 1 0
158 43 30
560
•
""
52 21 43
158 39 8
562
""
51 2 0
156 50
0 Lutke.
562
KURILE ISLANDS.
Alaid Island
50 54 0 155 32 0 Krusenstern.
563
Shirinky Island
Tshirinkotan Island
The Snares
Sumshu Island, centre
Poromushir Island, high mountain
Monkonrushy Island, centre
Avos Rock
Ounekotan Island, Cape Krenitzin
Kharamukotan Island, centre peak
Shiashkotan Island, centre
Raukoko Island, peak
Mataua Island, Sarytscheff Peak
Rashau Island
50 46 0
156 26 0
563
""
North point
50 15 0
51 0
155 24 15
563
""
0
Gilaeff.
563
50 10 0
154 58
0
Krusenstern,
563
-
49 51
0
154 32
0
563
""
49 49 0
154 19
0
564
""
-
49 19
0
154 44
0
564
""
49 8
0
154 39
0
564
""
48 52
0
154 8
0
564
""
48 44 0
153 24 0
564
""
48 35 0
153 44
0
564
""
48 16 20
153 15 0
564
""
48 6
6
0
153 12 30
564
""
47 47
0152
0 152 55 0
564
""
Ushishir Island, South point
Ketoy Island, South extremity
47 32 40
152 38 30 Golownin,
565
47 17 30
152 24 0
565
""
Simusir Island, Prevost Peak
The Four Brothers, South Torpoy island
Broughton Island
Urup or Staaten Island, Cape Castricum,
North point
Cape Van der Lind, S. pt.
Iturup Ísland, N.E. point
""
Cape Rikord, South point
Tschikotan or Spanberg Island, centre
Kunashire Island, St. Antony's peak
47 2 50
151 52 50
565
""
-
46 29 15
150 33 30
565
""
46 42 30
150 28 30
565
""
46 16 0
150 22
0
566
""
-
45 39 0
45 38 30
149 34 0
566
""
149 14
0
566
""
-
44 29 0
146 34 0
566
""
43 53 0
146 43 30
566
""
44 31 0
145 46 0
567
""
Estab. in Traitor's Bay
43 44
0
144 59 30
567
""
""
SEA OF OKHOTSK.
Cape Lopatka
51
Bolcheretskoi
Tigilsk
Cape Outholotskoi
Cape Bligan
2 0 156 50 0
52 54 30 158 22 0
58 1 0 158 15
57 28 0 155 45
59 20 0
Lutke,
568
King.
568
0
Charts.
569
0
569
""
152 50 0
569
Poustaresk
61 0
0 162 30
0
569
-
""
Kaminoi, at the mouth of the Pergina Riv.
62 0
0162 50 0
569
"9
Ghijega, or Fort Jiejiginsk
61 40
0 160 0
0
569
""
Jamsk
59 29
Taouinsk
Okhotsk
Port Aian, Cape Vneshi
Jonas Island, 1,200 feet
Fort Oudskoi
Great Shantar Island, North point
59 56 0
59 20 0
56 25 50
56 25 30
54 29 0
55 11 0
0153 0 0
148 30 0
143 14 0
138 25 50
143 16
134 58
570
570
""
570
Tronson, 1855.
571
0
Krusenstern.
572
0
Kosmin.
572
137 44 0
572
""
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
xxiii
Lat.
North.
Long.
East.
Authorities.
Page
O
Great Shantar Island, Prokofieff Island
·
55
2
Koassoff Island
""
Cape Linekinskoy
54 43
54 14 0
0
38 22
138 12
136 24
Kosmin.
572
572
""
O
Charts.
573
River Tugura, mouth
Cape Khabaroff
53 40 O
53 40
573
""
141 22 0
573
""
ISLAND OF SAGHALIN.
Cape Elizabeth
Cape Maria
North Bay, Tartar colony
Nadiéjeda Bay, Cape Horner
Cape Golovatcheff
Cape Löwenstern
Cape Klokatcheff
Cape Wurst
Shoal Point
Downs Point
Cape Delisle
Cape Ratmanoff
54 15 45
54 10 15 142 27 34
53 30 15141 55
54 3 15143 12 30
53 46 043 7
52 57 30 143 17 30
52 32 30143 14 30
51 53 O 144 13 30
54 24 30
142 47 o Krusenstern.
574
54 17 30
142 17 45
574
142 37 O
574
574
574
575
575
575
575
""
575
""
51 0 30
O
143 43
575
""
50 48 O
143 53 15
575
""
Cape Rimnik
Mount Tiara
Cape Bellingshausen
Cape Patience
50 12 30
144 5
575
""
50 3 0
143 27 O
575
99
49 35 O
144 25 45
576
48 52 O
144 46 15
576
""
Robben Island, N.E. point
River Neva, mouth
48 36
O
144 33
576
""
49 14 40
144 2 O
576
""
Cape Soïmonoff
48 53 20
143 2 O
576
""
Cape Dalrymple
48 21 0
142 50
576
""
Cape Muloffsky
47 57 45
142 44
O
576
""
Bernizet Peak, or Mount Spanberg
Cape Séniavine
Cape Tonin
Cape Löwenorn
Cape Aniwa
Cape Crillon
La Dangereuse Rock
Risiri, Pic de Langle
Refunsiri, Cape Hieber
Cape Notoro
Cape Nossyab
Cape Disappointment -
GULF OF TARTARY, ETC.
Cape Suffrein
47 33 0142 20 O
47 16 30 142 59 30
46 50 0143 33 O
46 23 10 143 40 0
46 2 20 143 30 20
45 34 15141 57 56
45 48 15 142 10 O
45 II O|141 12 15
45 27 45 141 O O
45 54 15142 I 55
45 25 50 141 34 20
45 40 30 137 38 15
Ward, 1859.
576
""
576
""
577
577
""
""
577
""
577
Ward, 1855.
Krusenstern.
578
578
""
578
579
579
""
Tronson, 1856.
580
Fish River
Low Cape
Beachy Head
Barracouta Harbour, Tullo Island
Castries Bay, Quoin Point
Jonquière Bay
Napoléon Road, Musoir Rock (West point
of entrance)
Guérin Gulf, sandy point
U
47 20
0 138 58
""
581
47 55
0139 31
""
581
48 28 O 140 10 O
581
48 56 0 140 21
O
""
581
49 I 50
1
51 28
140 19 O
0140 49 30
581
""
Forsyth.
582
50 54
O 142 7
O
583
H.M.S. Winches-
-
42 37 22
42 54 14
130 44 10
131 50
0132 56 0
0133 51 O
133 50 32
ter, 1855.
589
588
""
H.M.S. Hornet,
589
1856.
589
Ward, 1859.
589
43 46 0
135 19 0
590
""
43 53 40
135 27 21
591
44 28
0 136 2 o Tronson, 1856.
591
Hornet Bay, Fox Island
Islet Point
Siau-Wuhu Bay, Observation spot on chart
Port Michael Seymour, Observation spot at
St. Vladimir Bay, low point
head of port
Shelter Bay
43 9 O
42 41
42 49
xxiv
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
Sybille Bay
Pique Bay
Bullock Bay
Luké Point
JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
KIUSIU AND SIKOK.
Cape Chichakoff, Satano Misaki, extreme
Kagosima, fortress
Okino Sima, South point
Nomi Harbour
Kotsi Inlet -
INLAND SEA.
Simonoseki, Moze Saki, South part
Hime Sima, East end
Cape Iyo, North end
Tomo, harbour
·
Awadji Island, North point, light
Hiogo, Kobe Point
Oösaka, Timposon fort
Kata, pier
Hino Misaki, extreme
Tanabé Bay, Cape Tanabé
S.E. COAST OF NIPON.
Oosima, Harbour of Kii, Pisayama Rock
Urakami Harbour, Village point
Gulf of Suruga (Simidsu harb.), Miosaki
Eno-ura Bay, centre
""
Heda Bay, centre
""
Arari Bay, centre
99
Tago Bay, centre
VOLCANIC ISLETS, S.E. OF Japan.
Oösima or Vries Island, S.E. point
Kosu sima, highest part
Miaki sima, highest part
Mikura Island, highest part
Broughton Rock, centre
Redfield Rocks, southern
Fatsizio Island, centre
Aoga sima, eastern summit
Koning Willem III. Island, centre
La Bayonnaise Island
Smith Island
Ponafidin Island
St. Peter's or Black Rock
Cape Idsu, S.E. extreme
Rock Island, light on centre
1
-
Lat.
North.
Long.
East.
Authorities.
Page
44 43 45
136 22 30 Tronson, 1856.
591
44 46 15
136 27 15
592
""
45 2 O
136 44 C
592
45 19 30
137 10 15
592
""
30 59
0 130 44 30 Japanese chart.
598
31 37
0130 38
599
""
32 44
0132 37
600
33 23
0133 19
600
33 30
0133 35
601
""
33 58
33 45
34 10
0130 58 24
O 131 42
0132 57
Ward.
604
o
Japanese chart.
606
608
""
34 23 0 133 24
""
608
34 37 O 135
610
""
34 40 o 135 15
612
""
34 40
0135 28
611
""
34 19
O 135
135 4
614
""
3352
O 135 6
617
""
33 40
0135 20
""
618
33 29 8
35
135 48 55 Ward, 1861.
33 33 37 [135 55 11
0 51 138 31 7
35 3 0 138 53
619
620
""
623
""
Russian frigate
624
II
34 58 11 138 46 o
34 50 0138 46 o
34 47 3 138 44 54
Diana, 1853-55.
624
I
624
""
""
624
34 39 30 139 28
34 13 15 139 8 O
34 5 O 139 31
3352 O 139 34
33 56 50
33 39 o 139 17 45
o Ward, 1860.
625
626
O
""
627
O
627
""
138 48 15
627
و,
628
""
33 6 o
139 48 o
628
32 37 30
31 52 48
139 47 30
139 58 46
628
La Gravière
629
32
O
41 139 59 20
Houckgeest.
629
31 18 0 139 50 O
H.M.S. Tribune.
630
30 29 O 140 6 O
29 47
34 35
0138 52 o
34 34 20 138 57 10
Ponafidin.
630
0 140 22 30
U.S. Expedition.
630
American chart,
1854.
633
633
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
Simoda Harbour, centre island
Yedo Bay (Cape Sagami), extreme
Yokohama, western pier
XXV
Lat.
North.
Long.
East.
Authorities.
Page
//
〃
"
-
34 39 49 138 57 30
35 8 0139 42
American chart.
Ward, 1861.
634
640
35 26 11 139 39 20
641
STRAIT OF TSUGAR, ETC.
Cape Greig, small rock off South side
Tatsupi saki, North side
Toriwi saki, centre of low island off
Red Cliff Point, extreme
Cape Nambu, small islet on West side
Cape Matsumae, islet off
Hakodadi Harbour, entrance to Kamida
Creek
ISLAND OF YESO.
1
41 5 39 140 20 19 Richards, 1855.
646
41 16 17 140 22 37
646
""
41 33 34140 56 36
646
41 28 7141 9 O
41 25 24 141 28 32
41 24 54140 7 20
41 47 8140 45 34
646
647
648
""
648
""
Cape Broughton, East point
Cape Spanberg
Port Atkis
·
Bay of Good Hope, peaked hill
Cape Eroen or Evosn -
Volcano Bay, Endermo Harbour, entrance
Cape Nadiéjeda
Matsumae, or Matsmai, city
Cape Sineko
Cape Oote Nizavou
Cape Kutusoff
Cape Novosilzov
Cape Malaspina
Mount or Peak Pallas
Cape Schischkoff
41 59
O 144 12 O
9142 55 O
42 33 II 140 50 32
41 25 10 141 9 30
41 29 O
41 39 30
42 18 10
42 38
O
140 28 O
139 54 15
139 46
139 46 o
43 38 30 146 7 30
Broughton.
653
-
44 35
43 20
O
145 O
o
Japanese chart.
654
O
145 30
O
654
""
43
Broughton.
Rikord.
654
654
| Broughton.
655
Krusenstern.
655
Von Siebold.
656
Krusenstern.
656
o
656
""
656
43 14 30
140 25 30
656
43 42 51
141 18 30
656
""
44
O
141 54 O
656
""
44 20 O
141 37 O
657
""
-
45 25 50
141 30 20
45 27 45 141
45 25 50 141 34 20
657
657
""
657
""
Risiri Island, or Pic de Langle
Refunsiri Island, Cape Guibert
Cape Romanzoff
WEST COAST OF NIPON.
Bittern Rocks, S.W. rock
Tabu sima, East extreme
Awa sima, N.E. extreme
Sado Island, Ya saki
Niegata, governor's house
Yutsi sima
Nanao, entrance
40 31
39 11 53
0139 31 o
Richards, 1855.
658
139 34 17
Ward, 1859.
658
38 29 36
1
38 19 55
37 58 51
37 50 30
37 2 0
139 16 7
138 27 9
658
""
Richards, 1855.
658
139 9 45
Gouldsborough.
660
136 55 O
Richards, 1855.
661
Astrolabe Rock
Cape Noto
37 35
37 28
136 58
0136 54
O
Gouldsborough.
661
Richards, 1855.
661
0137 22
661
""
Mikuni Roads
36 12
0136 8
o
Gouldsborough.
662
Tsuruga Bay, entrance
35 39
0136 4
663
Oki Islands, North point
36 30
0133 23
Richards, 1855.
664
Mino sima, centre
34 48
O 131 9
664
- Cape Louisa
34 40
0131 36 0
664
""
Richards Island
34 32
0 131 18
664
""
KIUSIU.
Wilson Island, summit
North Pacific.
33 54 30 130 24 30 Ward, 1861.
665
d
xxvi
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
Lat.
North.
Long.
East.
Authorities.
Page
•
n
Islet
Swain Reef
Yobuko, Harbour entrance
Hirado or Firando, Harbour entrance
Rock in North part of Obree Channel,
summit
Yenoi sima, South side of
Hardy Harbour (Goto islands), Observation
Tama no ura, entrance of harbour
33 48
O
130 15
Ward, 1861.
667
33 33
O
129 49 O
Japanese MS.
668
33 23
0129 28
O
669
""
33 21 30
129 26 11
Richards, 1855.
668
32 59 44
129 19 24
670
32 49
0
128 56 39
671
32 43 30
128 38
Ward, 1861.
672
Cape Goto, extreme
32 39 30
128 35 30
672
NAGASAKI, Minage Point
32 44 28
129 51 58
677
Pallas Rocks, South rock
32 14 17
128 12 30 Richards, 1855.
683
Meac sima (Kusa-saki) Ears peak
32 3
128 25 O
682
Nadiejda Rocks, P. D.
31 48
O
129 41 O
French chart.
Retribution Rocks, centre
31 20
O
120 46 20
H.M.S. Retribu-
682
tion, 1858.
Udsi sima, high peak -
·
31 12 0 129 29
French chart,
682
1846, corrected.
素
​( xxvii)
SECTION IIL-THE ISLANDS.
Discoverer.
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Authorities.
Page
ISLANDS BETWEEN THE
EQUATOR AND LAT. 10°
NORTH.
Malpelo Island
O
〃
Rivadeneyra Shoal
-
Rivadeneyra, 1842
4 3
4 15
O
81 36 0 Aldham.
694
O
85 10
o
Rivadeneyra,
691
Cocos Island, Chatham Bay Obs.
5 32 57
86 58 22
Sir E. Belcher.
695
Walker Islands
Walker, 1814
3 34 O
149 15
O
Walker.
697
Diana Shoal
Christmas Island, S.E. point
Washington Island
Fanning Island, English Har-
bour, flashing light
Palmyra Island
Samarang Isles, West Islet
Kingman Reef
Baker Island
Howland or Holland Island
GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
Arurai, Arore, or Hurd Island
Nukunau or Byron Island
Onoatoa or Rotcher Island
Peru or Maria Island
Tamana Island
Taputeouea, Bishop, or Drum- Bishop, 1789
mond Island
Nanouti or Sydenham Island
Aranuka or Henderville Island Marshall, 1788
Kuria or Woodle Island
Apamama or Hopper Island
""
""
I 20 0 176 11
Cook, 1777
Fanning, 1798
1 40 34
4 41 35
157 13 53
160 15 37
Scott.
697
Wilkes.
701
""
3 53
0158 23
O
Richards.
699
Sawle, 1802
5 50
0162 23
O
Sawle.
701
Scott, 1840
4 55 9
162 22 20
Scott.
702
Kingman
6 27 30
162 21
mean.
703
English
8 40
O
157 20
o
English.
703
Foster
0 12 30
Belcher, 1842
o 50
176 22
0176 35
Reeves.
703
O
mean.
705
Lat. S.
Long. E.
The Elizabeth, 1810
Byron, 1765
2 40 54
174 40 49
Dutaillis.
710
I 25 0
176 40 O
Gulick.
710
Clerk, 1827
I 50
175 39
711
""
711
""
""
"9
225
I 20 O 174 57
0 176 7
711
Wilkes.
711
""
0 36 0174 24
Lat. N.
O
713
""
O II 0173 39 20
713
""
0 14 30
173 27
714
""
O 27 21
173 57 30
714
,,
Maiana or Hall Island
Tarawa or Knoy Island
The Elizabeth, 1809?
Marshall, 1788
0 56 45
173 4 15
Hudson.
715
I 29
0173 5 O Wilkes.
715
Maraki or Matthew Island
2 O
""
0173 25 30
716
Apiang or Charlotte Island
""
1 52
0173 20
716
""
Taritari or Touching Island.
3
8 0172 48
717
""
3 20 43 172 57
717
""
S. point
Makin or Pitt Island, N. point
MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
""
Mili or Mulgrave Islands, anch. Marshall, 1788
Majuro or Arrowsmith Islands
Arhno or Daniel Island, E. pt.
Pedder Island, W. point
Aur or Ibbetson Islands, anch.
Maloelab or Calvert Islands,
Kaven Island
Erikub or Bishop Junction Id.,
S. point
6 14 37 171 56 6
7 5 0171 23 54
7 27
7 10
Dutaillis.
Chramtschenko.
720
721
0172 7 O
Wilkes.
721
O
171 46 0
721
""
8 18 42
171 10
7 Kotzebue.
722
722
""
""
9 6 0
0 170 4
O
723
""
8 54 21 170 49
xxviii
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
Discoverer.
Lat.
North.
Long.
East.
Authorities.
Page
Wotje or Romanzoff Islands,
Christmas Harbour
Marshall, 1788
9 28 9 170 16 5
Kotzebue.
723
Likieb or Count Heiden Islands,
N.W. point
Kotzebue, 1817
ΙΟ
3 40
169 I 57
724
""
Jemo or Steep-to Island
Bishop
9 58 o
169 45
724
""
Mejit or New Year Island
Kotzebue, 1817
10
8 27
170 55 34
724.
""
·
or Musquillo
-
Ailuk or Tïndal and Watts Id.,
Capeniur Island
-
Taka or Souworoff Island
Bikar or Dawson Island
Kongelab, Bigini, or Pescadore
Islands
Rongerik or Rimski-Korsakoff
Islands
Bikini, or Eschscholtz Islands
Wottho or Shanz Islands
Kwajalein or Catharine Islands
Ujae or Lydia Islands
Namo or Margaretta Islands
Lae or Brown Islands
Jabwat or Princessa Island
Ailinglahelab
Group, Lib, North Island
Helut or Elmore Islands, South
Island
Kili or Hunter Island
Namarik or Baring Islands
Ebon, Boston or Covell Islands
Eniwetok or Brown Group,
North Island
Ujilong or Arrecifos Island, cen.
Shanz, 1835
The Ocean, 1804
9 14 O 167
9 4 0 165 58
8 55 48 167 34
Marshall, 1788
10 17 25
169 59 20
724
""
""
""
II II 20
II 48
169 50 37
017070
725
""
Marshall.
725
Wallis, 1767 ?
11 19 21
167 24 57
Hudson.
726
Kotzebue, 1817
11 26 45
167 14 20
727
1825
""
II 40 o
166 24 25
Kotzebue.
727
ΙΟ 5
O
166 4
Shanz.
728
728
729
729
Brown, 1858
Dennet (?)
9
O
O 166 26
Brown.
729
8 20
0167 34
O
Dunn, &c.
729
Bond, 1792
8 10 0 168 。。 Chramtschenko.
730
The Elizabeth
7 15
o 168 46 o
730
""
Dennet
Bond, 1792
5 46
0
169 0
Dennet.
731
5 35
O 168 13
Bond (?)
731
Ray, 1824
4 39
0168 50
Hagemeister.
731
Butler, 1794
II 40
0162 15
Lutke.
732
Providence, 1811
939
0161 8 30 Kewley.
733
THE CAROLINE ARCHI-
PELAGO.
Kusaie, Ualan, or Strong's Id.,
Coquille Harbour
Pingelap or Mac Askill Islands,
North one
Mokil or Duperrey Isles, Aoura,
N.E. point
Ponapi or Séniavine Islands,
Rono Kiti Harbour
Ant or Andema Group,
South extreme
Pakin Group, Kapenoar
Island, W. point
Ngatik or Valientes Islands,
East extreme
Nukuor or Monteverde Islands,
East point
Greenwich or Constantin Id.
Decapolis Reef
Oraluk or Bordelaise Island
Dunkin Island (?)
Losap or D'Urville Island
Mortlock Isles, Lukunor, Port
Chamisso
Lutke, 1828
""
Crozer, 1804
5 21 20 163 1 o Duperrey.
739
Musgrave, 1793 (F)
Duperrey, 1824
6 12 50 160 47 20
6 41 45 159 50
6 48
742
O
742
""
0158 26 o Reynolds.
747
6 43 10 158 5 30
7 4 40 167 56 30
Lutke.
751
751
Tompson, 1773
5 47 30 57 32 O
752
Monteverde, 1806
Greenwich, 1825
Decapolis, 1859
3 51
O 155 • 54 D'Urville.
752
I
4
Saliz, 1826
0 32
7 39
O
0154 47 55 Montravel.
O 152 51 Decapolis.
753
753
155 5 O
Saliz.
753
Dunkin, 1824
8 50
O 154 10
O
Dunkin.
754
Duperrey, 1824
7
3 40
152 42 20 Duperrey.
755
Mortlock, 1793
5 29 20
153 58 O Lutke.
756
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
xxix
Discoverer.
Lat.
North.
Long.
East.
Authorities.
Page
Raour Island, E.
extreme
Namoluk Group, N.W. Isle
Truk or Hogoleu Islands, Pise
Island
""
""
-
Givry Island
Tsis Id., N. W. pt.
Hall Islands, Mourileu Island
Lutke or East Faiu Island
Namonuito Group, Piserarr Id.
Tamatam or Los Martires Ids.
Poloat or Enderby Ids., Alet
Island
Suk or Ibargoitia Island
Pikelot or Coquille Islet
West Faiu Islet
Satawal or Tucker Island
Lamotrek or Swede Islands
""
Elato Island
Olimarao Isles
Ifalik or Wilson Islands.
Wolea Group, N. extremity
""
Foraulep Island
Fauripik or Kama Islands
Sorol or Philip Islands
Fais or Tromelin Island
Ulithi or Mackenzie Ids., Egoi,
East extreme
"9
Hall
Torres
Wilson, 1793
""
""
""
Lutke
5 55 Ő 153 13 30 Lutke.
757
Duperrey, 1824
""
7 42 30 151 49 15
7 9 0151 51 45
7 18 25 151 48 29
Duperrey.
758
758
D'Urville.
758
8 47 30
Lutke
8 33 20
152 20 0
151 26 0
Lutke.
758
759
""
Ibargoitia, 1801
8 34 20
152 32 30
760
Duperrey, 1824
7 34 0
149 29 0 Duperrey.
760
Renneck, 1826
7 19 25
149 17 0
Freycinet.
761
Ibargoitia, 1799
6 35 0
148 22 0
Cheyne.
761
Duperrey, 1824
8 12 0
147 41 30
Duperrey.
762
8 7 30 146 47 30
762
""
7 22 0147 60
7 32 0146 30 0
730 0 146 15 0
Duperrey.
762
Lutke.
762
762
"
Lutke, 1828
Wilson, 1793
7 43 30
145 56 45
763
""
7 15 0
144 30 0
763
""
7 22 6
143 57 53
764
"9
""
7 20
7 143 53
0
765
""
Lutke, 1828
8 36
0144 36
0
765
""
Hunter, 1791
6 40
0
143 10
0
766
""
8 6
0
140 52 0
766
""
Tromelin, 1828
9 47
0
140 38 0
766
""
10
7 53
139 54 58
Wilkes.
766
""
Mogmog Island
10 6 0
139 45 30
Lutke.
767
""
Yap or Eap or Unawb Island,
North point
Hunter, 1791
9 37 25
138 7 50
D'Urville.
767
Hunter Reef
9 57 30
138 13 0
Hunter.
769
""
Ngoli or Matelotas Islands, N.
extremity
Villalobos, 1545
8 35 0
137 40 0
Cheyne.
769
1
Palau or Pelew Islands, Ky-
angle Isles
8 8
""
0
134 17
0 | Douglas.
772
Babelthuap Island, E. extr.
7 41 0 134 40 0
Macluer, &c.
773
point
Orolong Island, Errakong
Harbour
Pelelew Island, S. point
Angaur or Niaur Island, S. W.
St. David or Freewill Ids.
7 11
0
134 21 0
775
7 2 0
0
133 18
133 18 8 D'Urville.
775
6 53 55 134 5 24
775
""
Warwick, 1761
Helen Reef, N.N.E. end
Seton, 1794
0 57 0 134 21 0
3 0 0 131 52 0
Williams
781
Pedersen.
782
Mariere or Warren Hastings I. Hutchinson, 1761
Anna or Current Island
Sansoral or St. Andrew Islands
Tobi or Lord North Island
Warwick, 1761
Padilla
4 39
4 19 30 132 28 30 McClellan.
0132 4 0
783
783
5 20 0132 20 0 Maury.
784
Lord North, 1781
3 8
0131 8 0
784
ISLANDS BETWEEN LATI-
TUDES 10° & 20° N.
Clipperton Island, rock
Passion Island or Rock
REVILLA GIGEDO ISLANDS:-
Socorro or S. Tomas, Braith-
waite Bay, landing place
-
Clipperton, 1705
Dubocage
10 17 0
17 11 0
Long. W.
109 10 0
106 21 0
Sir E. Belcher.
Woolridge.
785
786
18 43 14 110 54 15 Sir E. Belcher.
787
XXX
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
Discoverer.
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Authorities.
Page
St. Benedicto or Nublada Id.,
North end
Villalobos, 1542
19 22 40
110 44 0 Colnett.
788
Roca Partida
19 4 30
112 4 0
788
""
Santa Rosa or Clarion Island,
Sulphur Bay
18 20 36
114 40 19
Sir E. Belcher.
789
Johnston Islands, W. islet
Johnston, 1807
16 44 48
169 39 35
Brooke.
790
Long. E.
Wakes Island
Smyth Island, N.W. extreme
MARIANA or LADRONE IDs. :-
GUAM or GUAHAN ISLAND,
Umata Bay, church
Point Facpi
Port San Luis d'Apra, Fort
Santa Cruz
Port Tarofofo
Ahayan Point
Santa Rosa Shoal (p. d.)
Smyth, 1807
14 41 30
168 50 15
791
Wake, 1796
19 10 54
166 31 30 Wilkes.
792
13 17 44
144 39 0 D'Urville.
799
13 19 50
144 37 30 Freycinet.
799
13 25 45
144 39 27
800
Rota Island
13 18 9
13 14 0
12 30 0
14 9 0
144 46 14
Sanchez.
803
144 43 40
144 15 0
Freycinet.
803
Charts.
798
Aguijan Island, centre
14 53 44
145 16 30
145 30 1
Freycinet and
803
Malaspina.
804
Tinian Island, Anson's Road,
village
·
15 59 20
Saipan Island, Magicienne Bay
Farallon de Medinilla
15 8 30
145 36 19
145 44 0
805
""
Vansittart.
807
Anataxan Island, centre
Sariguan Island
15 59 20
16
18 20 0
16 41 0
146 0 0
Sanchez.
810
145 39 0
145 47
Freycinet, &c.
811
0
Sanchez.
811
Farallon de Torres or Zelandia
Rocks
Foster, &c.
16 51 0
Guguan Island
Alamagan or Alamaguan Id.
Pagan Island, N.E. end
17 16 50
17 34
18 7
145 50 0
145 50 15
0145 51 0
0145 52 O
Foster.
Freycinet.
811
812
813
""
Agrigan Island, S.E. pt.
18 46 20 145 41 45
Asuncion Island, crater
Urracas Islands
19 45 0145 30 0
20 6 35 145 20 0
Sanchez.
Wilkes.
Sanchez.
813
814
815
Freycinet.
815
Guy Rock, or Farallon de Pa-
jaros
Douglas
20 30 0145 8 40 Sanchez.
815
Britomart Reef
Bartlett, 1869
19 18
0141 34 0
Bartlett.
816
Lindsay Island, p. d.
Lindsay
19 20
0 141 8 30
Lindsay.
816
Florence Shoal
Wadsworth
18 6
0143 18 0
Wadsworth.
816
SANDWICH ISLANDS,
ETC.
HAWAII, Kapoho Point
Nanavalie -
Hilo, Waiakea, or Byron's Bay,
Cocoa Nut Island, light
Laupahoi
·
Mauna Kea Volcano
Upolu Point
Kawaihae Bay, light
Mauna Huahali
Kailau or Kairua Bay, N.W. pt.
Kealakekua Bay,Kamehameha's
""
Tomb
Cook's monument
Mauna Loa Volcano, Pendulum
Peak
South Point
Long. W.
19 34
0
154 54 30
19 38 0
828
154 57 0 U.S. Ex. Expedn. 828
19 43 51 155 30
Malden.
829
U.S. Ex. Expedn. 833
19 54 0155 6 0
20 19 30
20 2 20
19 54 0 155 28
0155 0
155 58 30
827
""
833
""
155 55 30
835
""
19 44 0
155 55 0
827
""
19 39 0156 5 30
836
""
837
19 28 30156 0 0
19 28 0 155 55 5
"
Thompson, 1837. 837
19 28 0 155 35
0
18 54 0 155 39
0
U.S. Ex. Expedn. 827
840
""
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
xxxi
Discoverer.
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Authorities.
Page
Kilauea Volcano
19 25
25 0 155 21 0 U.S. Ex. Expedn. 827
""
Molokini Island
""
MAUI, Hana Point
Mauna Haleakala
Wailuku (Isthmus), N.
side
Lahaina, light
Kamalea Bay, N.W. pt.
Kahulaui, S.E. point
Kealaikahiki, or W.
point
Lanai Island, Cape Kamaiki
20 40 0 156 3 0
840
""
20 42 0
156 18 0
841
""
20 55
0
156 28
0
841
""
20 53
0
156 35
0
841
""
20 45 0
156 31
0
843
""
20 37
0
156 30
0
844
""
20 33
0
156 32
0
844
""
20 31 30 156 43
0
844
""
20 42
0156 57
0
844
"
Point Kaena
""
Molokai, Halawa, or E. point
ОAHU, Cape Makapua
""
Waimea Bay
Kaena Point
20 57 0 157 7
0
844
""
21 9
0
156 45 0
845
""
Kalaau, or W. point
21 6
0
157 18
0
845
21 20
0 157 39 0
846
""
21 39
-
0158 4 0
848
""
21 36 0
158 15 0
848
""
Point Mana
""
HONOLULU, Wharf
KAUAI or Atooi, Kaloa point
Waimea Bay
Hanalae, village
Niihau or Oneeow, Kawaihoa
21 18 0
157 55
0
Raper.
849
21 48 0
159 28 30
U.S. Ex. Expedn. 852
21 56
0
159 43 0
853
22 4
0159 53 30
854
""
22 14
0 159 31 0
Sir E. Belcher.
851
point
21 45
0 160 17 0 U.S. Ex. Expedn. 855
Oku Point
22 0
0 160 48 30
""
Lehua Island or Oreehoua Id.
22 2
0160 90
Kaula or Tahoora Island
21 39
0 160 35 0
""
Nihoa or Bird Island
Douglas, 1789
23 5
0161 45
0
855
856
856
856
ISLANDS AND SHOALS, NORTH
OF LAT. 20° N.
Los Alijos Rocks
Marquina, 1791
24 57 25
Guadalupe Island, West islet
Gardner Island
Maro Reef
""
Reed Rocks
Necker Island, centre
Arabia Shoal
French Frigates Shoal, islet
Brooks Shoal, 14 fathoms
Laysan or Moller Island
Lisiansky Island
Pearl and Hermes Reef, N.E.
extreme
Ocean or Curé Island, Sand Id.
Brooks or Midway Islands,
Welles Harbour
""
Middlebrooks Island
Krusenstern's Rock
-
Patrocinio or Byers Island (p.d.)
Marshall (or Jardines) Islands
Margaret (or Malabrigos) Ids.
Grampus Ids. (p. d.)
Arzobispo (or Bonin) Islands
Parry Group, North
rock
Kater Island, North
rock.
Reed, 1850
La Perouse
29 10 50
37 35
23 35 0 164 40 0
115 45 20
118 18 30
0137 30 0
Du Petit Thouars
858
Vancouver.
858
Redfield.
859
Brooke.
860
Arabia
29 30
0155 50 0
Arabia.
861
La Perouse, 1786
23 46
0 166 16 10
Brooke.
861
Brooks, 1859
23 52
0166 46 0
Brooks.
862
Allen, 1820
25 3
0 168
0168 1 30
Stanikowitch.
863
Allen, 1820
25 31 0 170 37 30
Brooke.
863
American
25 47 17
171 52 47
864
Lisiansky, 1805
26 0
0 0
173 57 0
0 Brooks.
865
Wrecks, 1822
American
27 56 30
175 46 0
866
99
28 4 45
178 27 45 Reynolds.
868
Brooks, 1859
Brooks, 1859
Lisiansky, 1805
0
28 14 0177 23 15
28 13 30 177 18 20
22 15
869
""
870
Zipiani, 1799
28 9
175 37 0
Long. E.
0 175 48 0
Lisiansky.
874
Zipiani (?)
874
Marshall, 1788
21 40
0151 35 0
Marshall.
877
Magee, 1773
27 20
0 145 45
0
Magee.
877
Meares, 1788
25 40 0 146 40 0
877
Coffin, 1824
27 45 0 142 7 0 Becchey.
880
27 31 0 142 12 0
880
xxxii
TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.
Discoverer.
Lat.
North.
Long.
East.
Authoritics.
Page
O
•
.५
Arzobispo Islands, Peel Island,
S.W. islet
27 2 0 142 10 0 Beechey.
881
""
Port Lloyd, Ten-Fm.
Hole
""
Bailey Island, South
islet ?
27 5 35 142 11 31
882
,,
""
S. Alessandro or
""
North Island -
Volcano Islands, San Augustino Torres, 1543
Sulphur Island
28 30
24 14 0
24 48
142 13 0
884
141 20 0
Krusenstern.
887
0
141 13
0
King.
887
25 14 0 141 11
0
""
887
Kendrick Island
San Mateo, Moor Island, or
Sylph Rock
Rosario or Disappointment Id. -
Linda or Euphrosyne Rock
Douglas Reef or Parece Vela
Nautilus Rocks, or Vela
Rasa Island
Borodino Isles
31 27
0145 40
0
(?)
Nautilus, 1801
Linda, 1851
Douglas
Bishop, 1796
1807
27 13 0 140 46
21 43 30
20 30 0
0 | Quin.
888
140 50
0
Linda, &c.
888
136 10
0
mean.
888
25 20 0
131 15
0
Bishop.
889
Kendrick
Ponafidin, 1820
24 26 40 131 1 50
24 35 0134 0 0
25 56 0
mean.
890
Kendrick.
890
131 15 0
Ponafidin.
890
Yakuno sima, Mount Motomi
30 21 0
130 29
0
Cecille.
891
Seriphos Rock
Yerabu sima, highest peak
Take sima, centre
30 44 0
130 45
0
""
891
30 27 0
130 11 0
""
891
30 48 0
130 24
0
""
891
Iwoga sima, highest peak
Powhattan Reef
30 42 0
130 17 0
""
891
Powhattan
30 41 0
130 19
0
Powhattan, 1860.
891
Trio Rocks, centre rock
30 45 0
130 5 0
French chart, 1846
891
Kuro sima, centre
Ingersoll Rocks, highest
LINSCHOTEN ISLANDS.
Blake Reef, highest rock
Kutsino sima, summit
Kohebi sima
Hebi sima, peak
Naka sima, peak
Fira sima
-
Suwa sima -
Akuisi sima
Sima-go Islands, highest
Tokara sima
Yoko sima, summit
THE LU-CHU OR LOO-CHOO
ISLANDS.
Sandon Rocks
low Island, North end
""
Tok sima or Crown Island
30 50
0129 55 0
""
892
30 51
0 129 26 0
وو
892
30 5
0 130 3 0 Cecille.
892
29 59
0129 55 0
""
892
29 53
0129 36 0
""
892
29 55
0129 32 0
892
29 53
0 129 50 0
""
893
29 41
0129 31 0
""
893
29 38
0 129 42 0
893
"
29 27
0129 35 0
""
893
29 13
0129 19 0
893
""
29 8
28 49 0
0 129 11 0
128 59
""
893
0
""
893
Oho sima, Harbour or Bunga-
Viscount Sandon,
1850
28 44 0 129 38 0
893
28 31 40
129 40 12 U.S. chart.
893
South end
28 6 30
129 22 0
894
""
Broughton, 1797
27 44 0
128 59 0
894
Yerrabu sima or Wukido
27 14 0
128 33 0 Collinson.
894
Great Lu-chu, Napha Kiang
bridge
26 12 30
26 35 35
127 41 30
Beechey.
895
127 59 42
U.S. Vandalia.
898
""
Deep Bay -
MEIACO-SIMA ISLANDS.
Tai-pin-san, Port Hadding-
ton, S.W. point -
Hoa-pin-su, North side
Raleigh Rock
Recruit Island
24 43 35
25 47 7
125 17 49 Sir E. Belcher.
123 30 30
903
904
HMS Raleigh, 1837 25 57 0 124 20
904
Lyall, 1861
25 57 40 124 43 0 mean.
904
THE NORTH
NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
CHAPTER I.
THE COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
THE country whose southern coast is described in this chapter, includes that
long, narrow, and irregular tract which forms the junction between the
northern and southern continents of America. Up to a recent period it was,
politically and socially, most unimportant, and our knowledge of it was
almost inferior to that acquired by the early Spanish possessors. But since
the development of the resources and colonization of North-west America,
consequent chiefly on the gold discoveries, it has rapidly drawn the attention
of all interested in shortening the highways of commerce, to the facility it
affords for an inter-oceanic transit. The great success and surpassing utility
of the Panama Railroad, completed January 27th, 1855, has increased the
desire that a ship canal should be cut through the isthmus, and this grand
project is now receiving most earnest consideration.
The eastern portion of the great isthmus, that of Panama and Darien,
belongs to the republic of New Granada, which has the exclusive privilege of
this important transit. On the western boundary of this state is the re-
public or state of Costa Rica, one of the former confederation of republics.
of Central America.
In a political sense, the divisions between the states on either side of this
confederation are, to the South, the River Escudo de Veragua, which falls
into the Caribbean Sea, opposite the island of the same name, separating it
from the republic of New Granada, lat. 9° N., long. 81° 20′ W.; and on the
N.W. from that of Mexico by the Rio Sintalapa, falling into the Pacific in
long. 93° 20′ W.
This territory, including an area of 165,054 square miles, is now divided
into the five republican states of Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, San
North Pacific.
B
2
COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
Salvador, and Costa Rica. The Federal District, which up to 1839 was
common to them, was a circle round the capital, San Salvador, 20 miles in
diameter, with a further extension of 10 miles to the South, so as to include
its port, the roadstead of Libertad, on the Pacific.
The N.E. coast of the isthmus, that is, the West India part, was discovered
by Columbus in 1502. The greater portion of it was usurped by the
Spaniards by 1524, and it was erected into a captain-generalship by the
Emperor Charles V. in 1527. From the fact of its being only a minor state,
its expenditure was on a less magnificent scale, and consequently compara-
tive benefit accrued to the people. On the overthrow of the Spanish power,
Guatemala became independent in 1821, and was subsequently incorporated
with Mexico; but when Iturbide fell, it separated, and declared its inde-
pendence on July 1st, 1823, adopting a constitution drawn up for it by Mr.
Livingston, the U. S. statesman. Affairs were, however, far from settled,
and much internal commotion continued; but all Spanish influence was
thrown over at Omoa, September 12th, 1832. Notwithstanding its very great
geographical importance, the resources of the country have hitherto been
very imperfectly developed."
Mountains.-In describing the general physical features of the country,
these naturally become the first in order, influencing as they do the rest of
its surface.
The elevated range (a continuance of the Andes) in Central America has
no determined name, and is in many parts without a visible existence. It
commences in Costa Rica, at a distance from the Pacific of about one-fourth
of the whole breadth of the isthmus, and, at the beginning of this course,
* The principal authorities for any description of Central America are the works of
Padre Thomas Gage, an English friar, 1632, an excellent and interesting work; that of Don
Domingo Juarros, a native of Guatemala, in 1780, which has been translated by Lieutenant
Bailey, R.M., 1823: Thomson's Visit to Guatemala in 1825, gives an excellent account of
much of the interior; Reise naar Guatemala, 1829, by J. Haefkens, and a work by the
same author, Centraal Amerika, 1832, both useful; Narratives, &c., by Mr. Roberts, chiefly
on the Atlantic side; a paper in the Geographical Journal, vol. vi., 1836, on Costarrica, by
Colonel Don Juan Galindo (an Englishman); Diccionario de las Indias Occidentales, by Col.
Don A. de Alcedo; L'Isthme de Panamá, &c., by M. Michel Chevallier; the important
works of Capt. Sir Edward Belcher, the Voyage of the Sulphur and the Voyage of the
Herald by Dr. Seemann; the Reconnaissances Hydrographiques of Capts. de Lapelin and de
Rosencoat, 1854 and 1857. Upon its antiquities and general information, the works of
Dupais, Waldeck, Kingsborough, Rouchaud, and Dumartray, may be consulted. One of
the most interesting is that by Mr. Stephens, who describes the ruins in Yucatan, but who
passed through portions of the other republics. The most important work is that which
contains the various papers by Mr. E. G. Squier, 1858. The work of Capt. Bedford Pim,
R.N.; the Travels of Dr. Scherzer, and the numerous reports issued by the engineers and
explorers of the various inter-oceanic canals and railroads, which have been so industriously
brought before the world. These are all noticed in the Appendix.
COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
3
separates this state from Veragua; in Nicaragua it inclines close to the
borders of the Pacific, leaving the lakes on the East; in Honduras it returns
towards the Atlantic, leaving the whole state of Salvador on the South;
traversing Guatemala, the new city and Chimaltenango stand on the top of
the ridge, which now becomes more elevated as it approaches Mexico, and,
branching into various groups, forms, in the western part of the state, that
region which is demonstrated the highlands. The population on the Pacific
side of the chain is much greater in proportion to its extent than on the
Atlantic slope.
The chain is apparently interrupted in its course through Central America
by the transversal valleys containing the Lake of Nicaragua and the plain of
Comayagua, but still the elevation between the two oceans is considerable,
and will be more dwelt upon when we describe the proposed canals, which
would render Central America of very great importance in the commercial
world, should they eyer be carried into execution.
The Lakes of Nicaragua and of Leon, or Managua, are among the most
important features of the country. On the Pacific side, the rivers which are
met with rarely have their sources above 60 miles from the sea. The Lempa
is the principal, but is not navigable. The next in size is the Rio Choluteca,
falling into the Bay of Conchagua.
Although not possessed of good harbours, yet it is still superior to Mexico
in this respect. The principal on the Pacific coast are, Realejo, Calderas,
La Union, Libertad, Acajutla, and Istapá or San José.
Volcanic phenomena are frequent, and their devastating effects have been,
at times, very severe. The principal volcanoes now, or recently, in activity,
are those of Coseguina, Isalco, de Agua, and de Fuego, and many others;
of these the Volcan de Agua is the loftiest, being differently stated as 14,895
or 12,620 feet above the Pacific.
These volcanic cones, often separated from the general chain, and suffi-
ciently lofty to be visible 20 leagues off, are most magnificent land-marks, and
are thus most important aids to navigation. There are usually eight of these
volcanoes in activity-Isalco, las Pilas, Atitlan, Fuego, San Miguel, Momo-
tombo, Orosi, and Cartago. Of these the first, Isalco, is an excellent beacon
light, which overtops Sonsonate; las Pilas is of recent formation, thrown up
in 1850, and although it has been in full eruption cannot be seen from the
offing. The rest of these volcanoes generally emit only smoke.
The productions of Central America are important. The Tisingal gold
mines, near the Chirique Lagoon, on the Atlantic side of Costa Rica, have
afforded as much riches as those of Potosi; but the vegetable productions.
are of greater importance than the mineral. Of cultivated articles, cocoa,
indigo, coffee, sugar, and cotton, are the most prominent. These crops.
vary with the height of the country. At a lower elevation than 3,000
feet, indigo, cocoa, sugar, and cotton are grown. Cocoa is chiefly grown
2 B
4
COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
along the shores of the Pacific, and that of Soconusco was esteemed by the
Spaniards to be the best furnished by their American possessions. Indigo is
general throughout the country. Cochineal, or the nopal cactus, is cultivated
between the heights of 3,000 and 5,000 feet, particularly in the neighbour-
hood of Guatemala. Of nativè woods, &c., abundance is produced, but
principally refer to West India trade.*
The TRADE on the coast of Central America, which is almost exclusively
British, is increasing rapidly. At Puntas Arenas, in the Gulf of Nicoya,
excellent coffee is exported, and is the best coffee in the Pacific; at Realejo,
dye-wood (Brasil-wood), &c.; at La Union (Gulf of Fonseca), indigo, &c.; at
Sonsonate, indigo; and at Istapá or San José, cochineal.
Climate. The whole of Central America is situated between the tropics;
but the temperature and salubrity of its climate are as variable as are the
diversities of its abrupt elevations, mountains, plateaux, ravines, sands, low
districts, lakes, and forests.
The country is within the zone of the N.E. trades, which, sweeping across.
the Atlantic, reach the continent almost saturated with vapour. The portion
of moisture which is deposited on the Caribbean Islands is probably quite
restored to them in passing over the Mexican Gulf, and is then precipitated
on the eastern slope of the high mountain ranges of Guatemala, Honduras,
and Costa Rica, giving rise to a multitude of streams and rivers, and causing
all that face of the country to be a dense and almost impenetrable forest of
rank vegetation, unfit for the home of civilized man, and still occupied by
the same wild tribes that were found at the discovery of the New World.
On the Pacific side, however, the trade wind still blows, for the mountains.
are not sufficiently high to intercept their entire violence, but it is deprived
of much of its moisture, and thus the climate is very different to the Atlantic
side. The climate is comparatively cooler, much drier, and consequently
very much more healthy.
It is rare to witness an entire day of rain, even in the rainy season,
although sometimes, but rarely, a rain of several days' duration occurs,
which are called by the Spaniards Temporales.
On the sea-coast of the Pacific, the seasons correspond with those of the
table lands, but the temperature is much hotter. It is said that the Pacific
shores are healthy, although they are almost entirely covered with woods.
This salubrity is, however, not without exceptional districts.
On the coast, during the fine season, which commences in November and
ends in May, the land and sea breezes blow alternately, with a clear sky and
but little rain; strong winds rarely occur during this period, except at the
*This country is so pleasing to the eye, and abounding in all things necessary, that
the Spaniards call it Mahomet's Paradise.”—Gage, 1650, p. 165. An interesting account of
the author's twelve years' residence in it will be found in his curious and valuable book.

80°
30
29
R.Mangalee
15
6 7
8
1
Vi.
9°
Sierra of Miguel de la Borda
137
63
48
45
26
28
10
Tortoguilla pr
orloguit
30
27
Red
20
11
31
32
33
41
32
24
42
CHAGRES
19
12
Depo
La Bruja
P Diego
17 8
50
78
33
32
38
36
35
30
40
26
27
53
35
30
27
30 29
14
14
15
37
7
32
29
15
15
26
17
8
8 7
25
6
Plantation
Lagarto Village
Salud Village
R.Indios
60
34
35
105
33
32
LIMON or NAVY
50
44
Manzan 52,
Toro P
32 pt Bruja
Naranjos
Minas
Longarremos pt
Margarita
I
SPINWALL
Za dad
Bos
Hermanos
Franost
Pueblo
R.Gatun
Pena Blanca
Alorca la Gala
ve
Plenquilla
Barbaron
Erjolillo R.
Bugio Sollado
A ROAD R.
Ch
Gorgona
Mattichis
San Pablo
Camer
Colum
Cruces
Ruan Ding
St Alejo
Sucia
Ro Grande
37
240
180
40
210
14
d.m.
PMascagual
30
13
28
Duarte Is
227
m.
27
Pt Salmedina
30
Pt Gorda
12
18
apirja,
Stuan
R.Chagres
Boquer
R. Pequem
R.Guanche
Pt Farnesio
PORTO BELLO 77+ Porto Bell
15
xenaventur
R. Castajal
S.Cristal
Nom de Dios
Farallon Sucio
Lavadiere
pt Manzanilla
Manzanilla Is
Juan del Pozo
Vivora
Tambor I.
La
El Buey
Pescador I
pt Macolla
Saina P Changuachangu
pudebra
de la Grim Loma
erto Escondide
Quengo It
ఆ
Quingongo Pt
6
Culebra I.
8
30'
79°
30'
78°
14
Escribanos Shoal
S. 14
Escribanos
Mogote
67
pta San Blas
pta Cienaga
Co Frances
P
hano
ARCH DE
18
12
Code Chic
unal de S.Blas
LAS Holandes
de
MULATAS
Grapo de Holandes 20
Canal
21
29 17
Yencos I
#21
Holandes
27
27
Canal de Caobos
37
18
26
30
22
24
19
BaInglesa
26
28
26
13
25
30
Grullos
29
18
Gulf of San Blas
9
18
23
28
22
20+
24
27
Cocos
14
13.
21
C. Copola
150
19
20
15
Canal de Moron 13 1
14
Canal de Arebalo
I.Puyadas
9
18
Culata
Carti
R.Mandinga
B. Carty
Cde Carit
Rde Mangles
Gordo
Ro del Diablo
18
16
15
13
Pide Concepcion
de Concepcion
pala
20
Coquera
Chepo
Terable
Old Fort
R.Bayan
Tides end
Colares R
Coral
Canita R.
سالی
or Chepo
Rancho
Mondin
Comelillo R.
Petillo P
Old Panama
ず​くれる
​R. Pecora
Chico
Rapids
2
1/2
2
2
2
1
2
Sulphur Rocks
Vique
Batele
PA
Red Lt
7
8
7
9
10
77
10
9
AMA
9
15
12
Chepillo
7
2
12
9
I
12
13
S.José 9
10
15 75
16 35 12
8
6
12
6
14
8
10
Chorrera o
2
32
Sierra Capero
Pajaros
Sierra de
ᎡᏗ requi
Gallo
2
1
5 6
Chorrera aboga
Vacamente Pt
Tortota
16
79 17 18 15
13 JL
6
24
19
2
20
17
16
10
Hondo
R.Coruh
Thanno Peak
Column Peak
Asses Ears
Agudo
16
5
19
22
20
19 24
14
23
Farallon
design
Far
** 16 19
CoRatones
Playon Grande 12 11
Ens de la Coquera
Βαναπο
Ens le Plavon chica
Mde Plavon Chic
D
I
L
CoIngles
17 ***
23
27 r
plade
Kolonos
L
Canal de Cocos
Cocos
12
32
8 12
ZZ
pin Brava
Escondido
de Cat
Bet de Cat
Canal de Guiti
Putrigandi
Ferro de trigande
Indian Village
Vit.
Wafer 1681
171 17
13
27
129
de ligandi
Alazangandi
51
Navagandi
R. Ustucupante
Morti
C.de Arena
22
11 15 14
9 10
10
Sasanti
1.de Pajaros
11
1.de Pinos
15 4
18
21 17
12 20 23
Huts
Sasardi
30'
199
9
34
7. Melones
B.
Tahoguilla
24
22
R. Chiman
Prevosts
truck.
M'Deseada
Asmah
Bucubdi
Oro or
Sta Catalina I
Caledonia Bay
16
ces
Reef
pt Escoces
13
Farallon
14
10
Indian
Indian Village
Sunk B.
9
23 24
19 13 8
4
7 8
12 13
Peterri
Mandinga I.
Chamé I.
4 7
8
8
Valladolid
NAM
24
A
25
Tide ends
Tide
ends
2
28
20
15
12 9
8
2
Pueblo Chiman
21
R.
26
28 29
A18
2
16 13
12
9
7
Juanito 7
20
Cabra Spit
9
13
P
31.
32
30
9
Y
Pacheca
13 22
10
9
8
6
16
30 22
19
89 20
28
14
Chame Pt
20
16
30
R.Dulce
Estero Viejo
Boca Chirant
8
R. Javo
8
8
PARI
Nata
7
&
Antoine Pt
10
8
9
10
12
TA
12
9
13
6
8
30
13
BAY
13
10
12
Prieto pt
Chiru 1.
6
9
8
8
10
6
5
12
11
8
6
8
9
10
II
9
Pueblo Nuevo
Playa de
me
Chame Bay
Cerro Cham
Iguala Cove
2
Frieto Cociner
12
Pina Lisa 5
Pueblo Bight
dabaza pt 7
6 5
8 8 7
Playa
2
9
Saboga
5
12
Cedros P
15
28
14
14
Otoque I.
7
16
22
Cerro Tigre
Estiva.I
Redonda Rock
re 6
Bona I
15
16
2
7 10
22 9
Bayoneta
21
23
29
Sta Catalina
10
Boland
24 Gibralean
6
Contradora
15 18
Chapera
14
Pajaros
8
Mina
17
24
34
16
Majaguar
Pelado I.
9
16 18 15
15 14 71
16 15
Mangue I
4
Shay
Fairfax &
6
4
18
12
17
16
18 17
12
10
Trinidad
34
7
13
6
10
10 16
Changame Is
6
18
15
16
12
20
7
6
4
17
18
15 14
Pajaros I
13
17
10 9
7
25
6
16 19
14 12 10
6 7 9 15
PER LA 15 S
5½ 6
10
20
59/4
9
12
14
6
Var.
7° o E.
Señora I. 14
Viveros
33
9
12
9
Chura
Gonzales I.
12
9
31 17
8
Gallinazo p
5 1.
PessageR.
26
7
IL
17
28
Moreno
Iguana Pt
14 15
49
44
18
13 17 8
30
10
7
19
20
32
San José
Vacas
22
25
23
6
16
13 6
10
n
17
30
45
31
24
12
18
16
17
8 7
12
17
12
20 50
21
31/14 13
Cocos P
Galera
22 23
13
8
IL
14
15
&
6
40
22
18 26
21
18
13
16
12
12 35
22
52%
15
21
14
12
17
14
33
Trollope Rock
16
9 18
21 18
29
40
19
2 feet
Garachine Pt
8
53
13
40
27
25
26
6添​6
Pablo IDS
Gorda Pt
29
32
26
20 16 13
8
4
Buenaventura
12
9
R. Sucto
Miguel
Reak
RE
12
Gorda P
8 13 27
+Monge
Camote
S.Elmo 20
15 19
6
10
11 34 41
9
34
13 72
23
Farallon Ingles
42 26 37
20
14 11
9
Canas
12
Puercos 42
24
8
17
10
29
24
20
Brava P
8 6
54
Bank
Sambu
C. Escarpado 10
Pueblo de barachine
5
6
ତ
容
​3
Boca Grande
Вирипай
72
12
Pierce P
Iguana L 9
19
15
6
18
SAN MIGUEL or BALLO
Jones 114
10
Colorado Pt
ina P
Setegor
Escuchadero
DARIEN
K. Forsyth
Targani R.
Tuquesa R
les Visperal
HARBOUR
yra or
Rio Grande
Maria
R.Tapisa
R.Tinti
Areti
R. Ross
Chugunaque
P. Chieti
R.Tubugant
Hospital Camp
Pareto
condido
30'
Favisa
Xavisa
CARACHINE
BAY
Real de St Maria
Tueuti
Pinogana
O
L. Zucro
8°
18°
R. Salade
13
4 8
12
6
10
R.S.Maria
RPari
Estero
11
Liso Pt
5
20
14
6
ZZ
Villa I.
8
10
Boca de b. Honda
8
R.Robalo
H.Pocri
7 8
n
4 6 9 12
F
P
F
A
N
L
A
7 9
8 n
U
M
27 19 8
32
28
33 17 12
36 30 26
25
35
40
20 IL
42
18
38
41
12
39
17
30
15.
42 47
Zapo Peak
17
5
10
20
G
9
22
A
43 39
42 26
13
28
43 33
R. Berrio
6
15
9
43
13
16
13
9
26
16
48 44 35
8
Caracoles Pt
24
-10
38
15 Iguana I.
46
43
28
18
28
23
30
R.Juera
Raia
412
10 25
16
24
17
6
24
25
14
Cape Mala
17
15
16
24
80°
THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA & DARIEN.
30'
10
20
30
40
50
British Statute Miles
79°
R.H.LAURIE, 53,FLEET STREET, LONDON.
30'
Centinelas
Pinas Bay
15
9
20
18
51 32
27
Pinas Point
9
55
45 28
46 35
65
78°
Tuyra R
Paca R.
30'
W
COAST OF NEW GRANADA.
5
full and change of the moon, when occasionally a strong breeze from the
northward may be experienced.
In the rainy season, May to November, heavy rains, calms, light variable
breezes, with a close sultry atmosphere, heavy squalls, with thunder and
lightning, and not unfrequently strong gales from the S.W., are prevalent.
During the fine season, the land and sea breezes set in regularly; the
former are called el Terral, and the latter la Virazon. The only winds to be
guarded against at this season are the northers. These violent gusts give
no warning but the noise created by them a few moments before they burst;
sometimes a thick fog sets in beforehand, which is dissipated at the first
gust. These gusts are more frequent near the Gulf of Tehuantepec or abreast
of the Gulf of Papagayos.
In the rainy season calms are frequent, and the sea and land breezes
which are felt on fine days, have no regularity. The prevalent winds then
are from S.E. to S. W., blowing strongly and in squalls, bringing bad wea-
ther and torrents of rain for twelve or fourteen days at a series. During
this season nearly every afternoon about 3 or 4 o'clock, a violent gust sets
in from the N.E. and lasts till daylight. These gales are called chubascas,
and resemble the tornados of the African coast.
On the coast of Central America the currents are variable, but almost
always setting to the S.E., sometimes rather strong. The land wind never
blows far off shore, and, except in the harbours, is not certain; the sea breeze
is seldom felt, but there are of course exceptions.
Population. The inhabitants of Central America comprise three classes:
whites, or creoles of Spanish race; mestizos, or the offspring of whites and
Indians; and aboriginal natives. There are but few negroes or Zamboes.
There is considerable difficulty in arriving at a true estimate of the popu-
lation of the isthmus in the absence of any official data. Mr. Squier has
carefully considered the question, and from various authorities he assumes
that the total number of inhabitants of the five states as 2,108,000, distri-
buted thus:-Costa Rica, 135,000; Nicaragua, 300,000; San Salvador,
433,000; Honduras, 350,000; and Guatemala, 890,000, San Salvador being
much the most densely populated. Of these 100,000 are whites, 800,000 of
mixed white and coloured races, Ladinos, Mulattoes, &c., 19,000 negroes,
and 1,189,000 Indians.
1. THE COAST OF NEW GRANADA; PANAMA TO POINT
BURICA.
In our yolume descriptive of the South Pacific Ocean, the directions for
the coasts of South America terminate with the Gulf of Panama. And this,
although it lies eight degrees North of the Equator, will be a fitting com-
mencement for our present work, as it is really the first point touched on by
€
COAST OF NEW GRANADA.
the transit trade from the Atlantic side. We therefore repeat from that
work those directions which refer to this portion of the New Granadian
coast.
Garachiné Point on the East, and Cape Mala on the West, may be taken
as the limits of what is called the Gulf of Panama. These points lie E.N.E.
and W.S.W., true, 103 miles apart. The depth of the gulf within this line
is about 80 miles, the city of Panama being at its head. Panama Bay is
the space between the main and the Pearl Archipelago.
Until the survey of 1849, by Captains Kellett and Wood, R.N, we were
dependent for our knowledge on the old but excellent Spanish charts, and on
the still singularly correct description given by Dampier, nearly two centu-
ries since.
The BAY OF SAN MIGUEL, to the N.E. of Garachiné Point, on the
eastern side of Panama Gulf, was well known to the Buccaneers, who used
it as the entrance to the Pacific in their overland journeys from the Gulf of
Darien, which they generally accomplished under 10 days. Since Dampier's
time it has almost been forgotten until 1851, when the idea of a ship canal
was suggested to connect it with Caledonia Bay, in the Gulf of Darien.
This project, still under consideration, will be noticed in the Appendix.
The entrance to the Gulf is 6 miles wide, between Lorenzo Point on the
North, and Patino Point on the South.
Buey Bank, an extensive shoal, drying in patches at low water, on which
a heavy sea breaks, is 6 miles in circumference, its inner edge lying nearly
1½ mile from Lorenzo Point, but this passage should not be used, as there
is only 10 feet water in it, and generally a heavy swell. A spit with 12 feet
extends off its south-west end for 1½ mile, and 4 fathoms only are found
nearly 5 miles from it; vessels should not stand within that depth.
San Jose Bank, a dangerous shoal, 1 mile long by three-quarters of a mile
broad, in the centre of which is the Trollope Rock with only 2 feet water, lies
in the fairway of ships bound to Panama from the southward, being 16 miles
from Garachiné Point and 9 from Galera Island, the south-eastern of the
Pearl Islands. It is easily avoided either by keeping on the main shore
until Garachiné Point bears to the southward of East, or by passing nearer
to Galera Island, which may be approached as near as 2 miles, taking care
of the shoal patch and rocks off its southern side.
The PERLAS or PEARL ISLANDS, also known by the names of Islas
del Rey, Islas del Istmo, and Islas de Colombia, form an archipelago on the
eastern side of the Bay of Panama, consisting of 16 islands and several
rocks. Isla del Rey is the largest, San José, Gonzales, Casaya, Saboga, and
Pacheca are of secondary, and the rest of minor importance. There are from
30 to 40 fishing villages scattered about these islands, containing about 2,000
inhabitants, chiefly engaged in the Pearl fishery, which is said to produce
about two gallons of pearls a year; the shells also form a lucrative article of
These islands are low and wooded, the soil fertile, but not much
commerce,
GULF OF PANAMA.
7
cultivated; most of them belong to merchants at Panama, who employ
negroes to plant and cultivate them.
Pacheca, Saboga, and Contadora, with the islets of Bartholomew and
Chipre, are a group in the northern part of the archipelago, forming between
them a good and capacious harbour, well suited as a depôt for steamers.
Pacheca and Contadora are covered solely by palm trees, unmixed with any
others, which is singular. Saboga, the largest island, on the East side of
which is a considerable village, has a reef extending 1 mile to the north-
ward, which, with Chipre to the southward, forms the western side of this
harbour. Pacheca and Bartholomew being on the northern, and Contadora
on the south-eastern side; the latter island has 5 fathoms close to its north-
east shore, which is low and well adapted for wharves.
This harbour is about 2 miles long by nearly 1 broad, with an average
depth of 9 fathoms; it has three entrances, each possessing a 5-fathoms
channel, which may be used as best suited to wind and tide. It is high
water, full and change, at Saboga Island at 4h, the rise and fall being
14 feet.
Vessels using the Pacheca Channel should pass within half a mile of the
small island West of Pacheca, and stand to the southward until the centre of
Bartholomew Island bears E. by S. S.; steer for it on this bearing until
the northern islets off Saboga open westward of Saboga, bearing S. by W.
W., when the vessel may haul to the southward for Contadora. If
entering by the Contadora Channel, a ship should pass half a mile to the
eastward of Bartholomew Island and not stand to the westward before the
nearest islets North of Saboga open northward of Saboga, bearing W. by
S. S., which leads through. Care must be taken not to open them too
much, as there is a 2-fathom patch to the north-east of Contadora to be
avoided.
Vessels from the eastward using the Saboga Channel should pass half a
mile eastward of Contadora, and continue standing to the southward until
the outer islet on the reef South of Saboga opens southward of the same
island, bearing E. S. Steering on this course will clear the vessel of the
sunk rock in this channel, which lies nearly 1 mile to the southward of
Contadora, and when Pacheca is shut in by Saboga, bearing N. W., you
may stand to the northward, and run through the channel which is steep-to
on both sides. If this harbour were used, a few buoys would greatly assist
the navigation.
Chapera and Pajaros lie next to the southward; there is a 4 fathoms
channel between them, but the ground is foul and it should not be used. No
vessel should attempt the passages South of Chapera Island, between it and
Isla del Rey.
Casaya, Bayoneta, and Viveros, with several islets and rocks, are the
largest islands on what may be termed an extensive reef stretching off from
COAST OF NEW GRANADA.
the north-west point of Isla del Rey, about 8 miles long by 5 broad, the
passages between them being foul with occasional strong tides. A shoal 14
mile long by three-quarters of a mile wide, having only 9 feet water on its
shoalest part, lies nearly 4 miles to the eastward of the North point of
Casaya. The whole of these islands should be avoided by vessels bound up
the bay.
ISLA DEL REY, the main island of the group, is about 15 miles long by
7 broad, with several peaks on it, the highest being about 600 feet above the
sea. Numerous islets, having deep water between them, lie off its western
shore, extending 3 miles from the coast, but they should not be approached
by strangers within the depth of 10 fathoms. Cocos Point, its southern ex-
treme, is a remarkable promontory jutting into the sea, 4 miles long by about
1 wide, its extreme cliff being crowned by an umbrella-like tree, which makes
it conspicuous. East of this point is the fine Bay of St. Elmo, with conve-
nient anchorage in all parts, and a good stream of water at Lemon Point, in
the bight of the bay.
The eastern shore has also islands off it, but they are steep-to, and may
be approached within half a mile, with the exception of Canas Island, at the
eastern point, where there is a 3-fathom patch lying outside a sunk rock
nearly 1 mile from the shore.
San Miguel, the principal town of these islands, on the North side of Isla
del Rey, is of some size, possessing a conspicuous church; it is, however,
badly situated, landing being difficult at low water. Two hills-the Cerro
Congo and Cerro Vali-lie to the southward of it, the former being 481 feet
high. Supplies are uncertain and dear, being generally all sent to Panama.
Care must be taken in approaching it, as the bottom is irregular and rocks
abundant.
GALERA, a small island, generally the first land made by vessels bound
to Panama, is 7½ miles to the south-east of Cocos Point, like which it is re-
markable for its umbrella-tree. A cliff forms its southern side, sloping
down to a beach on the North, and to the southward a reef runs off for
nearly 1 mile. This island should not be approached within the depth of
10 fathoms, but there is a good passage between it and Cocos Point, by using
which the vessel will be clear of the San José Bank.
GONZALES lies on the West side of Isla del Rey, with a broad deep
channel between it and the islets before mentioned. It is about 12 miles in
circumference, and has on its northern side two bays protected from the
North by the Islands of Señora and Señorita. These bays, called Perry and
Magicienne, are divided by the little peninsula of Trapiche, off the East point
of which is a rocky ledge, terminating in a shoal, with 14 feet water.
A large stream of water runs into the sea on the western side of Magi-
cienne Bay. This bay, however, is small and shoal, without the advantages
of Perry Bay, which is 1 mile wide, and runs back for the same distance.
GULF OF PANAMA.
9
Gonzales was purchased in December, 1857, by the British Government of
an American citizen for £1,000, the New Granada Government consenting,
and retaining the sovereignty. No building was to be erected on it, but a
vessel was to be moored. It was intended as a watering station for H.M.
fleet. Senora and Senorita, including the shoal off their eastern side, are
about one mile long, and lie nearly the same distance northward of Trapiche,
with a 7 fathoms channel between, steep-to on both sides.
It is high water, full and change, in Perry Bay, at 3h 50m; the rise being
16 feet. The tide stream is not felt in the anchorage, but there is a consi-
derable set off the island, the flood setting to the northward, and ebb to the
southward, the latter being generally the stronger.
San Jose Island lies 4 miles directly South of Gonzales; the summit forms
a table land. Nearly 2 miles S.E. from the Iguana Point, the northern ex-
treme of the island, is a large waterfall, running into the sea, and forming
an excellent watering place.
Passage Rock is a dangerous sunk rock, with 12 and 9 fathoms alongside
of it, lying near the centre of the channel, between San José and Gonzales,
which otherwise is deep and clear. It is 1½ mile from Gonzales, and 21
miles from San José. Vessels should keep between the San José shore and
this rock.
The COAST.-Brava Point forms with Lorenzo Point, from which it is dis-
tant 2 miles, the northern point of entrance to the Gulf of San Miguel.
Both these points are edged with reefs and outlying rocks.
Farallon Ingles is a small but high island, lying at the edge of the shoal
off the river Buenaventura, about 5 miles to the northward of Brava Point;
12 and 15 feet water are found on its western side. Gorda Point, bold and
woody with 4 fathoms close to, lies 4 miles northward of the Farallon; there
is less swell after passing this point. The Pajaros are two small rocky islets
4 miles from Gorda Point, with 4 and 5 fathoms to the westward, but only
13 feet between them and the shore. At these islets the 5 fathoms shoal
commences, which continues in front of the coast round the Bay of Panama
as far as Point Chamé, on its western shore. The River Trinidad, 24 miles
from the northern islet, has a low rocky point forming its south-west point of
entrance. A 3 fathom channel was found into this river, extending 1½
mile from the point. Shag Rock, a barren islet, frequented by birds, with
shoal water round it, lies 2 miles from this entrance. Mangue and Maja-
guay, 7 miles from the River Trinidad, are high wooded islets at tide time.
There is a depth from 10 to 12 feet water to the westward of them. River
Chiman, to the northward of these islands, is wide at the mouth, but shoal,
being nearly dry at low water. On the eastern side, under a hill, is the
small town of Chiman. This was the spot to which Pizarro retired in 1525,
after beating about for 70 days with much danger and incessant fatigue,
10
COAST OF NEW GRANADA.
without being able to make any advance to the southward. He was here
joined by Almagro, and the following year they sailed again for Peru.
Pelado Islet, W. by N. 4 miles from Mangue islet, directly off the mouth
of the River Chiman, is a flat level islet of small extent and about 60 feet
high; it has no trees, but is covered with a coarse prickly shrub; is steep-to
on all sides, and forms a useful mark to vessels bound up the bay for Panama,
who need not go inshore of it.
Chepillo Island, 31 miles from Pelado, is described by Dampier as the
most pleasant island in the Bay of Panama; it lies off the mouth of the
River Chepo, about 2 miles from the coast, and is one mile long by one-half
broad, very fertile, being low on the North side, and rising by a gentle ascent
towards the South, over which is a remarkable tree. This tree also forms an
excellent mark to vessels bound up the bay; the southern point may be ap-
proached within a mile, but the other sides are shoal, a reef running off its
northern point in the direction of the river. The coast between this island
and Pelado is low river land with mangrove bushes.
The land North of these rivers is of some elevation. Column Peak and
Asses Ears, about 12 miles North of Chiman, and Thumb Peak, at the West
extreme of the range, are conspicuous.
Chepo River extends some distance into the interior of the isthmus, having
its rise near the head of the Savannah river. The entrance is to the east-
ward of Chepillo Island, through a 10 feet channel, about 3 cables broad.
Vessels should stand no nearer than 6 fathoms between Chepillo and
Panama.
PANAMA.
PANAMA is one of the "Gates of the Pacific," and from the very earliest
times has held an important position in the connection between the Old
World and the Pacific. For within a year of the discovery of the great
ocean a town was established in its vicinity.* During the Spanish occupa-
tion of these regions, it was periodically the scene of much activity, as the
plate-fleet from Lama, with numerous merchant vessels with goods and
treasure, came every three years for their transport across the isthmus to
Porto Bello. This continued, more or less, to the downfall of the Spanish
power in America, but was also seriously affected by the establishment of a
regular commerce round Cape Horn. With the growth of trans-oceanic
steam navigation it began again to revive, but the gold diggings in California
"Nata, on the West side of the Bay of Panama, was the first town built by the Spa-
niards on the coast of the South Sea. It was founded in 1517. The following year they
established themselves at Panama."-Herrera, Historia de las Indias Occidentales, dec. 2,
lib. iv. chap. 1.
PANAMA.
11
suddenly brought it into prosperity, which was wonderfully enhanced by the
completion of the railroad in 1855.
Immediately about Panama, East along the coast, and N.W. from it, the
land is low and flat, but West and N.E. the mountains approach it closely;
and from a hill called Cerro Ancon, about a mile West from the city, and 540
feet high, an excellent bird's-eye view is obtained of the whole adjoining
country, including the city, the island in the bay, the neighbouring planta-
tions, the mountains of Veragua, the Pearl Islands, the flat country towards
Chagres, the elevated chain between Porto-Bello and Panama, the Rio
Grande, the low land along the coast towards the Pacora and Chepo,
Panama Vieja, &c., all which come successively under review, and together
constitute a landscape beyond measure beautiful.
The city consists of two parts, the city proper of San Felipe, occupying
the peninsula, and the suburb of Santa Ana, on the isthmus. It is at the
latter that the railway terminus is, and therefore the city has not benefited
so much by the traffic it brings, as the greatest part of the merchandize and
passengers do not enter the city. Panama suffers much from want of proper
drainage, which is inexcusable, as there are such facilities in the great rise of
tide. Of late years it has somewhat improved in this respect, but in other
regards the same indolence and inactivity are evident in the ruinous public
buildings, and want of enterprise that were so manifest of old.*
Panama affords the usual supplies which are to be obtained in tropical re-
gions, but are generally dear; provisions of excellent quality may, however,
be obtained from the United States by ships requiring them; and, when time
will admit of it, getting such from the States is far preferable to purchasing
in the markets of Colon or Panama.
Water can be obtained at Panama from the tank of the United States'
mail steamers; but it is cheaper at Taboga, where it may be purchased at
two dollars a tun. Coal may be bought here at times from the mail compa-
nies, but it is generally dear. Consuls of all nations reside at Panama.
On board ship Panama is by far the most healthy place on the coast of
Central America. Vessels of war have remained here many months at a
time, their crews continuing in a healthy state, excepting those men who had
the will and opportunity to indulge in the vile spirit (aguardiente) of the
country, which is cheap and easily procured.
The RAILROAD which connects the two shores of the isthmus was origi-
nated by three American merchants. Mr. Stephens, well known by his
writings and researches in Central America, and Messrs Aspinwall and
|
* See voyage of H.M.S. Herald, by Berthold Seem ann, vol. i, pp. 84—6, and 231—248;
also, "The Gate of the Pacific," by Captain Bedford Pim, R.N,, 1863, p. 208, et seq., and
the Handbook to the Panama Railroad, by Dr. F. N. Otis, 1867..
12
COAST OF NEW GRANADA.
Chauncey. The former gentleman made a preliminary examination in 1848,
and then the partners entered into a formal contract with the Government of
New Granada for the exclusive privilege of constructing a railway across
the isthmus, and the company was secured from competition for 49 years by
the government guaranteeing that no other iron railroad or maritime canal
should be sanctioned.
The work was commenced in January, 1850, and was finished on January
28, 1855, under the able superintendence of Colonel G. M. Totten. Its total
length is 45 miles 3,020 feet; it runs on the right or easterly bank of the
Chagres from the Atlantic terminus, as far as Barbacoas, whence it crosses
the river by a wrought-iron bridge, 625 feet long, in six spans. This is ex-
actly midway between the two ends. The highest point is 37 miles from
the Atlantic, and 263 feet above the mean sea level. There are no less than
134 culverts, drains, and bridges of 10 feet and under, and 170 bridges of
greater dimensions. The line is only a single one, but there are four sidings
at Gatun, Barbacoas, Matachin, and at the summit. The line is altogether
constructed in a most masterly and perfect manner, and is maintained in the
greatest efficiency by stations four miles apart. A most substantial electric
telegraph is established between its termini. The total expenditure on the
railway was 7,407,553 dollars-about £1,500,000 sterling. The fare across
the isthmus is 25 dollars-£5 4s. 2d. sterling, or 2s. 21d. a mile; only one
class, one of the dearest travelling roads in the world. The time occupied is
4 hours, and the cost of fuel, exclusively wood, is 10 dollars for the double
journey. From these high rates it has been a most profitable investment,
15 per cent. being acknowledged, but probably much more, for in 1857 it
was 20 per cent. on the capital. The northern terminus, Aspinwall, or Co-
lon, as it is termed in England, is a busy, thriving New England town, in
great contrast to the Spanish Pacific terminus. The Panama Station is to
the eastward of the city, and is connected with an iron pier 450 feet long, up
to which the smaller steamers come for the transport of passengers and mer-
chandise between the shore and the ocean steamers at Perico or Taboga. A
longer pier and docks are very much wanted at Panama.
Petillo Point to the East of Panama, is a black rocky promontory with
two small hils over it; rocky ledges extend from this point for 1½ cables,
and off their extreme a depth of 10 feet may be found. A great portion of
this bay between this point and Panama is dry at low water springs, yet at
its entrance there is a depth of 8 feet. It is termed El puerto, or port of
Panama, and it is here that most of the minor trade of the Gulf is carried
on by means of bongos, large canoes made from trees of such dimensions
that some of them formed from a single trunk have measured 12 tons. Buey
Point, only seen after half-ebb, forms the southern horn of this bay; the long
rocky ledges extend 3 cables from the N.E. bastion, 5 cables from the S. E.
bastion in an easterly and 2½ in a southerly direction, forming a bay south-
PANAMA.
13
ward of Buey Point, in which is easy landing after half-flood, on a sandy
beach in front of the Monk's gate. The general landing, however, is round
Buey Point, at the market place on the northern side of the town. These
ledges around the city, composed of rock with sand patches between, although
now irksome and often dangerous to boats, afford every facility for erecting
substantial piers and improving the port. As yet there is no attempt at
works of this description.
The S.W. part of the Panama Road is embarrassed by rocks and shoals.
Although these dangers are mostly above water, yet this part of the Bay of
Panama should be avoided.
Perico and Flamenco, with the outlying rock of San José, are a group of
islands forming the South side of Panama Road. Iieñao and Culebra, the
western and southern parts of Perico, are connected with it by an isthmus of
beach and rocks; but at high water these present the appearance of three
islands. These four islands are the joint property of the Panama Railroad
and Pacific Mail Steam Ship Companies. Perico is the head quarters of
United States mail steamers, the bay on its northern side forming a conve-
nient anchorage, while on the isthmus, which is sandy on that side, steamers
of 2,500 tons have been easily beached. Vessels using this anchorage after
passing Flamenco, should keep close round the North end of Perico, and
anchor when the isthmus opens. Large vessels drawing over 20 feet may
coal at Perico, by passing West of the group at half tide, with Ancon
Hill (which on that bearing makes like a cone), just open of Ileñao, N.N.W.,
pass about a cable's length from Ileñao, and anchor off its north-west end
in 24 feet, when Perico opens. In both cases attention must be paid to the
time of tide.
Danaide Rocks, a patch of conical rocks, on the eastern ridge of the road,
with only 12 and 15 feet on them, surrounded by 3 and 4 fathoms, lie E.
by S. 21 miles from the S.E. bastion. These rocks are awkwardly placed,
lying in the track of vessels standing for the anchorage, keeping their luff
with the land breeze. It is a favourite fishing place, and vessels should
avoid canoes seen in that vicinity, as they are probably fishing on the rocks.
Sulphur Rocks, a dangerous reef, one mile to the north-west of the Danaïde,
have a rock awash in their centre. Knocker and Taboga Rocks are two sunken
rocks, with only 6 feet water on them; the former has a red buoy, with staff
and flag on it, and lies nearly one mile E. N. from the S.E. bastion; the
latter lies a little more than 2 cables to the S.W. of the buoy, with 16 feet
water between and 12 feet inshore of them, but no stranger should attempt
to pass West of the Knocker Buoy.
Tides. It is high water, full and change, in Panama at 3h 23m. The
springs range from 18 to 22 feet, and the neaps from 6 to 10 feet. The ebb
sets South from 1 to 1 mile an hour, and is stronger than the flood, which
runs to the N.W.
14
COAST OF NEW GRANADA.
Directions. Sailing vessels bound to Panama should endeavour to get
within 3 or 4 miles of Chepillo Island, especially between December and
June, and so have all the advantages of the prevailing northerly wind. From
this point Ancon Hill will be seen, and should be kept a little on the port
bow, as the wind hauls to the westward on approaching Panama. Vessels
drawing over 18 feet should pass South of the Danaïde Rocks, by not bring-
ing San Jose on with the West point of Taboga (the largest of a group of
islands about 9 miles South of Panama), bearing S.S.W., until the cathedral
towers are open to the eastward of Ancon. Having passed the Danaïde the
ship is fairly in the road and may anchor according to her draught; if no more
than 18 feet she may have Tortola just shut in by Ileñao, bearing S.S.W. 114
W., and San José open East of Taboguilla, the eastern of the group above
mentioned. Larger vessels, drawing 24 feet, may come-to North of Perico,
with the peak of Urava, the centre of the Taboga Group, on with the East
point of Flamenco, bearing South, taking care not to open Changarmi north-
ward of Perico. If it is necessary to work up the road to an in-shore berth,
tack on the western side just before Perico and Flamenco touch, and in
standing to the eastward do not open San José of Taboga Island.
Vessels drawing 14 feet may pass North of the Danaïde and South of the
Sulphur Rocks, with the Hermanos Rocks on with right side of the peak,
between the rivers Grande and Falfan, then San José on with the peak of
Taboguilla bearing S. E., leads between Sulphur and Knocker Rocks, and
they may anchor North of the buoy in 16 feet, keeping it between Perico
and Flamenco, with Gabilan, a rocky peninsula West of the town, just shut
in by the S.E. bastion. During neap tides they may anchor still further to
the N.W.
Panama Road, although shoal, may be considered secure; the ground
being muddy holds well. A sailor, resident in Panama for five years, re-
marks, that during that time there was no known case of a vessel being
driven from her anchors; and with good ground tackle and common precau-
tion a vessel might lie there all the year round with one anchor down. At-
tention to the tides and soundings of the roadstead will enable a vessel to lie
close in at times for the discharge of cargo.
TABOGA ISLAND, with those of Urava and Taboguilla, form a pleasant
group of islands, about 4 miles long by 2 broad, lying 9 miles to the south-
ward of Panama. Taboga, the highest and largest, 930 feet above the sea,
is well cultivated, with a considerable village on its N.E. side. To the
northward of the village is the Morro of Taboga, a small hill, connected with
the main island by a low sandy isthmus, covered at high water. This place
is the head-quarters of the Pacific Mail Company who have here a steam fac-
tory and coal stores, also a gridiron, 300 feet long, on which H.M.S. Magi-
cienne, a vessel of 1,255 tons, was repaired in 1858.
Vessels visit Taboga from Panama to procure water and supplies, both of
PARITA BAY.
15
Water can be procured
which are more readily obtained than at the city.
from the Company's tank at 2 dollars per tun. The anchorage formed by
the Morro is convenient, being about 3 cables from the shore in 10 fathoms,
with the peak of Urava on with high cliff of Taboga and the church from
S.W. S. to West. Vessels coaling at this island should avoid giving
liberty to their crews. There is a regular steam boat communication with
the city.
Urava is a small, lofty island, separated from Taboga by a narrow and
shoal channel; off its southern extreme is the small islet of Terapa. Ta-
boguilla, 710 feet high, also well cultivated, with some islets off its S.W. ex-
treme, forms the N.E. island of the group, with a wide and deep channel
between it and Urava, in the centre of which is a sunk rock with 8 and 14
fathoms close to.
The coast from Bruja Point to Chamé Point, a distance of 46 miles, forms
a shoal bay, with several outlying banks and rocky islets, and vessels bound
to Panama should keep near the islands of Taboga, and not approach this
shore within the depth of 5 fathoms. About one mile to the N.E. of Vique
Cove is a lofty treble-peaked hill, called Cerro de Cabra, forming a conspicu-
ous object to vessels bound to Panama, and frequently mistaken for Taboga
by those coming from the eastward.
Chame Bay, at the head of which is a small river of the same name, is
nearly filled up by large banks, of which the largest is the Cabra Spit,
lying in the middle, with Tabor Isle on it. On the southern side is Chamé
Point, a singular, low, woody promontory jutting into the sea, 5 miles long
by half a mile broad. Between this and Cabra Spit is a convenient
harbour, 2 miles in length by about three-quarters of a mile in breadth,
with from 3 to 8 fathoms water in it, and from 16 to 18 feet, close to the
beach of Chamé Point. To the north-west of the river is a high range
called Sierra Capéro, and to the southward are the Cerro Chamé, a group of
wooded hills.
Melones Island is a small rocky islet, 2 miles to the north-west of Taboga,
with a rock above water, lying about half a mile to the northward of it.
Chamé Island, with the Perique Rock, are of a similar nature, situated about
the same distance southward of Taboga. Valladolid is a large rock nearly
2 miles to the south-west of Chamé Island, with 9 and 10 fathoms close
to it.
Otoque and Bona, with Estiva Island and the Redondo Rock, lying 6 miles
to the S.E. of Chamé Point, form a group similar but somewhat smaller than
Taboga and Taboguilla, being cultivated, and having a considerable village,
called La Goleta, in the bay on the western side of Otoque. Anchorage, in
from 10 to 14 fathoms, may be found in any part of this group, and all dan-
gers are above water.
PARITA BAY, large and open to the eastward, is nearly 20 miles across,
16
COAST OF NEW GRANADA.
lying 45 miles to the south-west of Chamé Point. The coast between is a
continuous beach, called Playa Grande, in front of a low wooded bank,
Vessels from Parita Bay should shape a course to pass about 2 miles to the
southward of Bona. The mud-flats are found again on the western side of
Parita Bay.
Iguana Island, a little higher than the adjacent coast, and thus forming a
conspicuous object, lies about 9 miles to the northward of Cape Mala. The
island is steep-to, except at its South and East points, with 15 fathoms in
the channel between it and the main. It is high water, full and change, at
Iguana Island, at 4h, the rise and fall being 15 feet.
CAPE MALA, which forms the western point of entrance in the Gulf of
Panama, is a low but cliffy point with outlying rocky ledges, having deep
water close to them. The land from the north-west slopes gradually down
to the sea at this point from a considerable distance, making the exact cape
difficult to distinguish, unless the breakers are seen. On opening the gulf
round this a strong southerly set is generally experienced, especially in the
dry season.
The PROVINCE of VERAGUAS, the western extremity of New Granada,
was but little known till the surveys of Capt. Kellett and Capt. Jas. Wood
in 1848-9, and Captain de Rosencoat in 1854-7, made us acquainted with
its coasts. Of the interior we are still almost as ignorant as were the early
historians of Columbus. The relative poverty of the region has never at-
tracted any attention, or raised any commercial products. The native popu-
lation, chiefy Indian, does not exceed 50,000 in number. Some of these
are occupied during part of the year in collecting pearls and pearl oyster
shells, and also tortoise-shells, for which one or two vessels annually visit
the different islands and harbours, of which that of David is the chief, the
town being the capital of the province.
In front of the coast is an archipelago, or rather range of islands, running
generally parallel with it, and leaving a channel, 10 or 12 miles broad,
within the four groups which they form. The coast itself abounds in ex-
cellent and spacious harbours, and throughout landing is easy and safe.
There are no barred rivers nor outlying shoals, but then there is little more
than the vast primeval forest to visit.
Los Frailes are two remarkable rocks, the southern one of which is 12
miles S.W. S. from Cape Malay. They are 24 miles apart, in a N.N.W.
and S.S.E. direction, and are bold-to. They are a good mark for approach-
ing Cape Mala. In leaving the Bay of Panama, the cape should not be
approached too closely, as the current shifts from its easterly direction to the
S.W. outside it. The coast trends nearly due West from Cape Mala, and
at 13 miles is the small island of Benado or Venado. Not far from this there
is a commodious creek, according to native report, or river, accessible for
vessels of any draught, having 10 or 12 fathoms depth, and affording a sup-
THE BAY OF MONTIJO.
17
ply of fresh water. The coast beyond this trends to S.W. for 16 miles to
Puercos Point, and then 27 miles W. by S. S., and terminates in Point
Mariato, from which it bears to the northward.
The only outlying dangers are a shoal of 18 feet, lying 13 mile off shore,
at 2 miles E. by N. of Point Puercos; and another reef, of some extent, a
mile off shore, and 4 miles W.S.W. of Point Puercos. The rest of the coast
is quite bold-to.
Mariato Point is in lat. 7° 12′ N., long. 80° 51′ 30″ W. It is bold and
bold-to. At 5 miles N.W. by W. from it is a small wooded island, Naranjas,
which has deep water close outside it.
The BAY of MONTIJO is 23 miles northward of Point Mariato. It is an
extensive gulf, in front of which is the long and narrow island of Cebaco,
which nearly encloses it to the southward, and the channel to the westward
of it is partly occupied by the island Gobernador. The bay is thus com-
pletely sheltered, but unfortunately the depths inside are so irregular, that
it is useful only to vessels of small draught. There is a deep channel to
the East of Cebaco, which shoals suddenly from 12 fathoms to 6, and then
to 3 fathoms, at 4 miles North of the East point of Cebaco. Keep along
the East side of the bay, taking care to avoid the rock San Juan, distant about
1½ mile from the land, and also some others farther to the North, and you
may thus reach Leones Island, at the head of the bay. There is another
channel to the West of Cebaco, passing on either side of Gobernador, but
that between Gobernador and Brava Point, on the North shore, is preferable,
because the southern channel is narrower, and the tidal stream through it
much stronger. In this western entrance to the bay a vessel should not go
farther in than in 4 fathoms. There is good shelter for vessels of light
draught under the West shore of the bay, which is easily reached. It is
necessary to be very careful with the lead, on account of the steep banks
which extend throughout the bay as far as Leones Island.
QUIBO or COIBA was surveyed by Captain James Wood, R.N. It is
the largest of the islands off this coast, and is 60 miles in circumference.
The interior consists of fine plains covered with magnificent forests, as yet
untouched. In the fine season there are abundant streams, and there are
numerous anchorages around its shores, but it possesses no harbour, properly
so called.
It was a favourite resort in early times, as vessels coming to its bays
were free from molestation, and its fine timber was much prized. Its
western face is clear of danger, but there is a shoal nearly a mile in breadth
against its southern extremity; and outside of this, 23 miles off the shore,
is a dangerous 6-feet shoal, called the Hill Rock, which bears nearly due
East 5 miles from David Point, the N.E. end of Hicaron, and the same dis-
tance S. W. by W. from Negada Point, the S.E. end of Coiba. There are
several other rocks hereabout, but they are above water. Hermosa Point is
North Pacific.
18
COAST OF NEW GRANADA.
the N.W. extreme of the island, and has deep water close outside the
rocks and islets off it. To the East of it is an open bay Hermosa Bay, with
a sandy beach. Baltasar Head is the North point of Coiba, and is 11 miles
north-eastward of Hermosa Point.
Damas Bay, on the eastern side of Coiba, and 6 miles N.W. from its S.E.
point, is the principal anchorage. It is about 6 miles wide, and has a
broad sandy flat at its head, through which the waters of a small stream, the
Rio San Juan, flow. There is good anchorage in any part of the bay, the
depths gradually decreasing from 30 fathoms, between the two outer points
to 10 or 12 fathoms, within a quarter of a mile of the sandy flats, which, as
the tide rises and falls about 6 feet, must be guarded against. There is a
narrow inlet between the reefs on the South side of the bay, with 6 and 7
fathoms water, which might, with care, afford protection from the S.E.
The island, as above said, is covered with a dense and tangled tropical
vegetation, the undisturbed abode of birds, reptiles, and wild beasts. A
visit to the land should therefore be conducted with caution.
In former times, when the system of reprisals against the Spaniards was
so vigorously pursued by the buccaneers and ships of war sent by England,
as related by Dampier, Woodes Rogers, Lord Anson, and others, Quibo was
a point of very considerable importance, as affording means of shelter, and
also water, near to the principal field of action against the Spanish galleons.
In the account of Commodore Anson's voyage, the whole island is described
to be of a very moderate height, excepting one part of it (near the N.E.
end), and its surface covered with a continual wood, which preserves its ver-
dure all the year round. Tigers, deer, venomous snakes, monkeys, and
iguanas exist upon the island, a statement repeated by Captain Colnett
(1794). In the surrounding sea, alligators, sharks, sea-snakes, and the
gigantic ray abound. Pearl oysters, which attracted the pearl fishers from
Panama, were also to be gathered from the surrounding rocks, and the huts
of these men and the heaps of shells still existed at Colnett's visit. On the
N.E. part of the island, Anson describes a cascade of very great natural
beauty, a river of clear water, about 40 yards wide, rolling down a rocky
declivity of near 150 in length.
Captain Colnett, who was here, as before stated, in February, 1794, an-
chored in Damas Bay (Port de Dames) in 19 fathoms, the North point of
the bay in a line with the North point of Cebaco Isle, bearing N.N.E., the
watering place N.W., and the South point of Quibo S.E. by S. He says:-
"Quibo is the most commodious place for cruisers of any I had seen in these
seas, as all parts of it furnish plenty of wood and water. The rivulet from
whence we collected our stock was about 12 feet in breadth, and we might
have got timber for any purpose for which it could have been wanted. There
are trees of the cedar kind a sufficient size to form masts of a ship of the first
rate, and of the quality which the Spaniards, in their dockyards, use for
BAHIA HONDA.
19
every purpose of ship building, making masts, &c. A vessel may lay so
near the shore as to haul off its water; but the time of anchoring must be
considered, as the flats run off a long way, and it is possible to be deceived
in the distance. The high water, by my calculation, is at half-past three
o'clock. At full and change the flood comes from the North, and returns the
same way, flowing 7 hours, and ebbing 5, and the perpendicular rise of the
tide 2 fathoms.
Hicaron, which lies off the S.W. side of Coiba, 4 miles distant, is of a
triangular form, and well wooded. Its highest point is on the East side, and
is 830 feet high, an eminence that commands a prospect all over the adja-
cent islands, and the coast beyond. Off its South point is Hicarita, a small
islet, covered with cocoa-nut trees. The channel between Hicaron and
Coiba is of very irregular depth, but is safe and practicable.
Rancheria, or Quibito, is a small island 13 mile long, and 1 mile off the
N.E. point of Coiba. To the S.S.E. of it is a sandy beach, where there is
good anchorage, sheltered by a round and high islet. Wood and water are
easily procured. A Frenchman formed a small settlement here on the South
side. The channel between Coiba and Quibito is rocky and uneven, but is
apparently safe.
Afuera, or Canal Island, 4 miles. E.N.E. of Rancheria, is about midway
between the North point of Coiba and the shore. It may be passed on
either side, the only danger around it being a reef against its S.E. side,
which has a black rock, always uncovered at its outer edge, 2 cables' lengths
from the shore. The islet Afuerita nearly touches Afuera on the North.
BAHIA HONDA, "deep bay," is well named, and is an excellent natural
harbour. It is 23 miles N.W. from the West end of Cebaco, and opposite
the North point of Coiba. Should that island ever rise into importance,
Bahia Honda must be its port. It is easy of access, perfectly sheltered, wood
and water abundant, and easily procured, and is so safe that a vessel may be
hove down, or any repairs done, without fear or hazard.
It was surveyed by Sir Edward Belcher in the Sulphur, in 1839, and it
was also examined in 1854.by Captain de Rosencoat, in the Obligado. Sir
Edward Belcher says:
"On the 4th of March, 1839, we moved on to
Bahia Honda; another of our stations in 1837. Here we fell in with a few
Chiriqui Indians, sent to clear the land, but they were also very much afraid
of having any dealings with us.
"We found this to be a most capacious, safe, and convenient harbour,
completely landlocked, and perfectly adapted for refit, heaving out, &c.,
there being no tide or current. Water was in abundance at the beach, and
nothing wanting but a town and civilization to render it a favourite resort ;
timber of every kind, and the best abundant. The islands at its entrance
are beautifully adapted for defence, with but trivial labour. At this port
we collected a large stock of parasitic plants in full flower, which continued
{
2 c
20
COAST OF NEW GRANADA.
to decorate my cabin for some time, until forwarded to England, where they
arrived in 42 days in good order.
Sentinela Island, which forms the southern point of the entrance, is in lat.
7° 43′ 32″ N., long. 89° 29′ 1″ W. It is small, and some rocks lie around it
to the extent of about a cable. Captain de Rosencoat also shows a detached
reef, about 2 cables' lengths to the N.E. of it, which is not marked on Sir
Edward Belcher's survey. A smaller islet, Cono, lies a short distance South
of it, and both are separated by a narrow rocky channel from Cape Jabali.
Guarida Point is the North point of the entrance, nearly a mile North of
Sentinela, and the depth between is tolerably even all across, about 20 to 23
fathoms. This depth gradually decreases within the bay to 12 and 13 fa-
thoms 1 mile within the entrance up to Talon Island, the highest point of
which is only about 120 feet high, and bears E.N.E. from the entrance.
Talon is rather more than half a mile long; off its N.W. point is a small
island, Pueril; and off its South point is another, Espuela. These separate
Bahia Honda into two anchorages, Chinche Bay to the westward, and Legamo
Bay to the eastward, the former being more extensive. Talon has but a
shallow channel to the North of it. The whole extent of the inner bay is
about 3 miles from West to East. At 2 miles westward of the entrance is
Medidor Island, and off the South end of this is Trucha, or Pacora, a smaller
island, bold-to on the South side. Captain de Rosencoat gives the following
instructions for entering:
In coming to this harbour, after having made out Afuera in mid-channel
off it, the island Medidor will be seen. It is of moderate height, and must
be steered for until the small islet, Pacora or Trucha, is made out, lying close
to the South point of Medidor. There is a passage on either side of this
islet, but it is best to leave it to port, as the northern channel is narrowed
by the rocks off Medidor. Then steer for Guarida Point, or rather more to
southward. The entrance to the bay is easy, although it does not make out
well at a distance. To the right, close in-shore, is Sentinela Islet, which should
be avoided on account of the rocks which surround it; and to the left is
Point Guarida, which is quite clear, and may be ranged close-to. When
past this point, bear up to port, and make for a round wooded islet, Chinche,
lying in the N.N.W. part of the bay, and anchor in 11 to 14 fathoms, muddy
bottom, sheltered from every wind.
The bay is separated into two parts by an island named Talon, to the West
of the anchorage. The only population of the bay consists of a few Indian
families on this island, from whom eggs, fowls, cocoa-nuts, and bananas, may
be got at a cheap rate. They are also the most expert turtle catchers, and
will furnish a large quantity daily. Fish also is abundant. To the eastward
of the island the extensive mud-banks, which uncover at low water, leave
only a narrow space for anchorage in 5 fathoms, but this is unimportant,
as there is nothing to induce a vessel to come into this part of the bay. The
BAHIA HONDA, ETC.
21
only dangers to point out are a rocky reef a little above the line joining
Point Penot and Pueril Islet, at 1 cables length from the last; and another
reef at the same distance North of Guarida Point, on which there are only 8
feet water. The Obligado's anchorage was with Point Guarida S. 40° W.,
Sentinela Islet S. 14° W., Espuela Islet, S. 83° E., Chinche Islet, West point
N. 15° W. Captain de Rosencoat made the position of this anchorage of
the Obligado, opposite Pueril, to be lat. 7° 44′ 52" N., long. 81° 31′ 0″ W.
High water, full and change, at 3h 30m; tides rise 12 feet.
Water is abundant, and there is a stream, the Arroyo del Cobre, which can
be ascended high enough in a boat to get good water; but the most conve-
nient place is to the E.S.E. of the above anchorage, where there are two
streams, which, with a hose, will fill the casks rapidly. Wood is abundant
everywhere, the forests are magnificent.
Leaving Bahia Honda is as easy as its access. Keep on the side around
Point Guarida, avoiding Sentinela Islet. The best time is in the morning,
when the winds which precede the sea breeze come from E. to N.E. These
are sometimes so light that you must tow out by your boats. Having
doubled Point Guarida, steer for Trucha, leaving it to starboard, the same
with Medidor, and not attempting to pass through the narrow and rocky
channel which separates the latter from the land.
The COAST beyond Bahia Honda is a succession of bays of different ex-
tent, among which the three principal are Monita, del Rosario, and del Pajaro.
The first is to the North of Point Ventana, a projection of which the extremity
opposite Medidor Island is called Punta Roble. The bay itself takes its name
from a woody islet on its northern part near the land. It is clean, but affords
no shelter against westerly winds.
Bahia del Rosario is separated from the last by Point Gorda, the name of
which is expressive of its massive character. It is recognisable by a small
round islet in the middle of the bay, about a mile from land, called the
Muela, or Caballo. The bay is included between Gorda Point and the Punta
del Muerto, which terminates in an isolated pointed hill; between these points
is that of Rosario, which gives name to the bay, and separating it into two
parts, the southern of which is called Pivay Bay. At the head of each bay a
stream debouches, but the anchorage is open to W. and S. W., and can only
be used in the fine season. The third, or Pajaro Bay, is 9 miles from Medi-
dor Island, and has 16 to 18 fathoms water. In each of the bays a few
Indian families are found, who live by fishing and hunting.
The navigation along the coast thus far is quite safe close in; but to the
North of Pajaros Point, the North limit of the bay, a long sandy shelf com-
mences, the Playa Brava, which fronts the coast for 9 or 10 miles, and off the
South end of which, at 2 miles from shore, is only 6 feet water, a bank ap-
parently formed by the deposits brought down by the Rio Lavenia. At the
22
COAST OF NEW GRANADA.
North end of this bank is the mouth of the Rio Tavasera, which has no bar.
Negrito Bluff is on the West side of the entrance.
The Contreras are two islets, with numerous rocks and islets lying 10 miles
off this coast. The northern island is called Brincanco, and the southern
Pajaros. They are 33 miles apart, and the southern island is 9 miles North
of Coiba. There is no good anchorage around them. The Obligado an-
chored on the North side of Brincanco, off a small bay resorted to by the
fishermen for turtle and pearl oysters; the bottom coarse gravel, and very
bad holding ground. The islands are uninhabited. They may be approached
without fear, the depths being 30 to 40 fathoms near them. The only danger
is a moderately high rock, the Farallon de Prosper, which stands like a black
tower, about 2 miles South from the South point of the Pajaros. It was so
named from the wreck of a French ship Le Prosper, which was drifted on to
it in a calm. Vessels should not pass between them, on account of several
rocky patches.
PUEBLO NUEVO was surveyed by Sir Edward Belcher, in the Sulphur.
In his book he says: "Our first halt was Pueblo Nuevo, in March, 1839,
at the mouth of the Santiago, or Pueblo Nuevo, at the island called by us
Magnetic Island, in March, 1837. Here we recommenced our survey of this
river, following its branches up for some distance. The river takes its name
from a small village, situated on the river Santiago, where the Spaniards.
probably first appointed the seat of government. The port is formed by a
neck or island about 3 miles in length, which affords good anchorage for
vessels of any class. Three larger streams discharge themselves into the
main basin at the western end of this island, where the apparent great en-
trance is situated, but so studded with rocks and shoals as to be unnavigable
for anything larger than boats. It is, in fact, an extensive archipelago, as
most of the regions towards the Chiriqui territory will be found to be on
future examination.
A plan was made, which will prove interesting to those who may visit this
port, for refuge or refit; but water cannot be procured in any quantity. It
may probably be found by digging wells. The natives generally appeared
alarmed at our presence, nor could we induce them to bring off supplies.
Had our visit been prolonged, no doubt this would have been dispelled; as,
after we fell in with a negro who understood English, they appeared anxious
to sell pigs, poultry, &c.
Their principal article of trade is the sarsaparilla, that of this neighbour-
hood being esteemed of superior quality. The stream runs fresh at some
miles up, but we did not either meet it or succeed in finding the town. Sugar
cane of good quality was offered; and tortoise-shell, one of their articles of
trade, can be procured at the season.
Sir Edward Belcher's survey was published 10 years later, and the place
was again surveyed in 1854 by Captain de Rosencoat, who in his chart or
PUEBLO NUEVO.
23
directions takes no notice whatever of his English predecessor, as is indeed
the case throughout the French work. It would seem to have been scarcely
necessary for the two nations to have surveyed this uncommercial region twice
within so few years. What follows is derived from Captain de Rosencoat's
pamphlet, adapting it to Sir Edward Belcher's survey.
From whatever direction Pueblo Nuevo is approached, it is easily made out
by the two hills or Morros, the Cayado Hills, on the South side of the en-
trance, which, at a distance, make like two islands. A conspicuous sugar-
loaf hill, about 5 miles North of the entrance, is also a good mark, as it
stands alone, and is 550 feet high. The two Cayado Hills are 300 and 400
feet high. On a nearer view, two low and wooded islands come in sight,
Silva de Afuera, the Magnetic Island of Sir Edward Belcher, and Silva de
Tierra, or Silla Island, which lie nearly East and West, 3 miles apart, in a
line with the entrance of the bay.
The entrance of the river is formed by a low mangrove island, as before
stated, which Captain de Rosencoat calls Porcada. It is about 4 miles long
N.W. and S.E., and has a former channel to the river to the N.W. of it, but
this is now only passable by boats. The southern entrance is close around
Cape Cayado, between that point and a spit projecting a mile to the W.S.W.
from Belitre Point, the South extreme of Porcada, and which, as it uncovers
at low water, acts as a breakwater to the channel. Cape Cayado is so named
from its supposed resemblance to the form of a bishop's pastoral staff, or a
shepherd's crook, and has 8 to 10 fathoms close up to its base. The channel
here is not more than 2 cables wide, but the channel is straight, running
nearly East and West, with 6 to 10 fathoms throughout.
It is necessary to have a commanding sea breeze and the flood tide to
enter. Being a quarter of a mile due West of Cape Cayado, you will see a
small round islet or rock in the middle of the inner basin. It is the Intrusa
of Belcher, or the Perdono of de Rosencoat. Keep close to the South cape,
and steer for this islet, and proceed until it comes on with Belitre Point,
the South cape of Porcada, bearing N. 28° E., when you may anchor in 7 to
9 fathoms, fine sandy bottom. Perhaps it is best to enter with the first of
the flood, as then the edges of the banks are plainly seen, which is not the
case so well near high water. You may pass quite close to Intrusa; but
the banks to the eastward are very irregular in depth, so that vessels drawing
more than 17 or 18 feet should be cautious.
The resident Indians say that the westerly winds which are frequent be-
tween June and October, send in a heavy sea to the inner anchorage; but
in this case shelter may be found in the river itself within Belitre Point, and,
if necessary, as high up as Payo or Conejo Island, which is a mile N.N.E.
of Intrusa, to reach which, you must pass to the North of that island.
The only dangers here, beside the bank at the entrance, are the mud
banks in the southern part of the inner bay; another bank to the southward
24
COAST OF NEW GRANADA.
of Payo, and some rocks scattered on the bank abreast of the channel East
of Payo, on which lies the small islet Herron, off the mouth of the river, or
Arroyo Tinto.
Sir Edward Belcher places the Observation rock off the South side of
Magnetic Island, or Silva de Afuera, in lat. 8° 4′ 39″ N., long. 81° 45′ 30″.
Capt. de Rosencoat makes Perdono or Intrusa Island to be in 8° 4′ 54″ N.,
long. 81° 43′ 0″. It is high water, on full and change, at 3h 10m or 3h 44m;
rise from 9 to 12 feet.
Good water may be procured from a brook which falls into the small bay
on the East side of Cape Cayado. The bay is inhabited by a few Indians in
ranchos or huts, scattered along the beach. Some eggs, fowls, vegetables,
and tropical fruits may be obtained. There are a number of small villages
on the numerous affluents which fall into the river, but by far the largest is
on the stream which gives it its name. At one time it was on an eminence
only 2 miles from the Boca Brava, and was then called Los Remedios,-a
name still applied to the place, which is 15 miles from the harbour. The
passage up to it is most intricate, and can only be found by native guidance.
This "pueblo nuevo," or new town, has not more than 400 inhabitants,
among which are a small number of Europeans, and in 1854 two Frenchmen,
who had erected a saw mill. On all the islands and all visits to the shore,
be exceedingly cautious against a most venomous species of serpent, which
is very numerous, and whose bite is fatal.
Leaving Pueblo Nuevo is as easy as the entrance. It is best to have the
land-breeze, and start a little before the end of the flood-tide. Having got
beyond Cape Cayado, pass on to the southward of Silva de Tierra, and then
take any route at pleasure. It is not advisable to pass inside Silva de
Tierra, on account of a long spit of sand and rocks which extends from its
North side.
From the northern entrance before described, on the north-western side
of which is the low island Espartal, the coast trends to W.N.W. for 23 miles,
for the first 18 of which it is composed of narrow sandy beach, behind which
is a line of forest, intersected here and there by the mouth of a river, which
are recognisable afar off by the whitened and bare trunks of the mangroves.
About a dozen miles inland is a range of hills, the last steps of the Pacific
Cordillera, between which and the sea is a wooded plain. Beyond the above
limits the hills approach the sea coast, which is otherwise quite safe to ap-
proach by the lead at a distance of 2 or 3 miles. The coast then turns ab-
ruptly to S.S.W. for 4 miles, forming a peninsula, off the S.E. point of
which are the Benado Isles, which consist of one larger island near the point,
and three smaller on one bank farther to the eastward. Point Ojo of De
Rosencoat (the El Juco Point of Captain Wood) 3 miles West of the
eastern Benado Islands, is the south-western extremity of a peninsula which
forms the eastern limit of Chiriqui Bay.]
THE SECAS ISLANDS.
A
25
The SECAS ISLANDS lie on the meridian of 82° W. at 14 miles off the
coast. The group consists of three principal islands, with numerous rocks
and islets, one of which is 5 miles northward of their southern edge. With
one exception the islands are quite safe, and they will afford shelter to a
small vessel, and several of them are accessible, but there is no fresh water,
as their name indicates. A vessel becalmed or at nightfall might seek
shelter safely here when approaching David Bay in 12 fathoms, sandy bot-
tom. At 24 miles N.E. of the largest island is a rock awash at high water,
but which is quite uncovered at low water. It is called La Bruja. There is
a wide-spread tradition that at the period of the Spanish conquest, some
Indian refugees buried some treasures on the northernmost of the largest
island, and this is in some measure borne out by the discovery of several
ancient implements and other objects.
The Chiriqui coast, as this part is called by Captain de Rosencoat,
is fronted by a large group of islands, and with the numerous streams
to the North of them, forming an intricate archipelago, to the North of
which, by a tortuous channel, the approaches to the town or city of David
are found. The various islands and channels are so united by almost a con-
tinuous shoal, nearly 20 miles in extent from East to West, that, as above
said, the only safe access is from the eastern end of the labyrinth.*-Captain
Wood.
CHIRIQUI or DAVID BAY lies between El Juco Point and Palenque
Island, 54 miles asunder East and West. Off Juco or Ojo Point is an isolated
rock known by a clump of trees on its summit, and the point may also be
known by two small islands, Silla or Ensillada, which from the South have
the appearance of a saddle, as the name indicates.
The Viuda Rock (the Widow) lies 33 miles to the southward of El Juco,
and is a large flat rock, with a reef extending half a mile to the E.S.E. It
is quite steep-to on all sides, having from 8 to 13 fathoms all around it, and
may be seen at a distance by day, as the sea breaks heavily upon it. At low
water four pinnacles are uncovered, one only being visible at high water.
A sunken rock is said by the natives to lie rather to the West of the line
joining the West end of Viuda Rock and the Secas, about midway between,
* The charts and directions for this part afford an example of what should be avoided.
The island was well and carefully surveyed by Commander Wood in 1848, but this fine
chart with all its details was not published till thirteen years later. In the mean time the
French officers in the Obligado, commanded by Capt. Rouxo de Rosencoat, also surveyed it,
in 1854. The French survey has not the slightest allusion to its predecessor, and these two
charts differ entirely in their nomenclature, &c., so that Capt. de Rosencoat's directions are
almost unintelligible when used with Capt. Wood's chart, which is quite sufficient of itself
as a guide in this most unfrequented region. We have followed, in some degree, the French
directions, giving Capt. Wood's names.
26
COAST OF NEW GRANADA.
which would place it about 5 miles S.E. from the Viuda. It has been un-
successfully sought for, but it was said to show but very rarely.
In coming from the East, do not pass to the northward of the Ensillada
or Monitas Islands, on account of the strong currents. Leave them on the
starboard hand, ranging close to them if desired. Coming here from the
southward, take care to avoid the Viuda, and when abreast of it to the West,
steer for the San José Islands, a cluster of four wooded islets united by a reef.
These are also safe, except a spit which runs off their East point. Guarding
against this, also keep a good lookout for another insidious danger, the
Buey Rock. This rock is of small extent, lying in the middle of the bay, and
uncovers at half tide, and does not show at all at high water and in fine
weather; neither does the lead give any sign of its proximity, for the usual
depth of 7 and 8 fathoms is found close up to it. It lies 1 mile N. 56° E.
from the summit of San José, and 34 miles N. 64° W. from the Monilas or
Ensillada. There is good anchorage to the N.E. of this in the fine season,
but during the period when the S.W. winds prevail, it will be better to get
under the lee of the San José Islands.
At the head of the bay is a line of islands running generally E.S.E. and
W.N.W. According to Capt. de Rosencoat their names are, going from East
to West, Monita (this name is given by Captain Wood to the outermost
cluster) Mona, Carey (Carré of Wood), Bajo Rajado, Saino, and Ventana; to
the North of the last is the East end of the larger island, Brava, extending 7
miles to the westward, and along the northern face of which is the channel
leading to David. The bay within this line of islands is inaccessible to
ships. But it is probable that there is shelter between the second and third
islands West of El Juco Point, which is called the Plaza Grande. At the
head of this bay is another called the Ensenada de Chuchican or Chuchegal, on
the plains around which are numerous herds of cattle, which can be pur-
chased direct from the owners.
The Boca Chica, or entrance to the river, lies between Ventana and Saïno.
It may be known by some rocks on the extremity of the former, being
pierced through by the sea at its base, so as to have the appearance of a
window or ventana. The passage is very narrow, and in taking it keep
close to Saïno, and guard against the Lavandera Rock, which is quite covered
at high water, lying 1 cable off Ventana. The water is very shallow within
the point, and is quite unadapted for seagoing vessels, and cannot be taken
without a pilot. Within, the anchorage is called El Pozo (the well), and
from this can be seen the outer houses of the village of Boca Chica (or the
Puerto de San Lorenzo of Capts. Kellett and Wood. It consists of about a
score of ranchos or huts, surrounded by oranges and bananas. Fresh pro-
visions, as butcher's meat, poultry, fruits, &c., can be bought here cheaply.
The watering-place is on the North shore of El Pozo, but it is not conve-
nient, though the water is good. Capt. de Rosencoat made the sandy Bay on
THE PARIDAS ISLANDS.
27
the South side of Saïno in lat. 8° 11′ 52″ N., long. 82° 12′ 8″ W. Greenwich.
The tides were regular, the greatest rise was 11 feet, the least 6 feet; high
water at 3h 15m.
David is the chief town of the province of Chiriqui, and lies about 25
miles from the sea by the eastern channel, or 10 miles by the western one,
and to go thither in a boat a pilot is indispensable on account of the in-
tricacy of the channels. It stands in a fine plain, and is surrounded by
cultivated lands, which extend as far as the extinct volcano. of Chiriqui.
The population is 5,000, and it has a regular trade with Panama, sending
thither by some small vessels pigs, poultry, eggs, vegetables, &c. The cattle
are generally driven to the market.
The situation of David has some importance from the fact that it stands
on the narrowest portion of the American isthmus, and on ascending the
Chiriqui volcano both oceans can be seen at once. An ordinary cart road
has been proposed as the modest substitute for a railway, which should lead
from Amiral's Bay on the Antlantic, a good harbour, to that just described.
Another feature of importance is the existence of a coal-field, which extends
nearly across. A portion taken from Muertos Island, near the entrance of
the river, was analyzed by Professor Rogers, which gave good results.
Palenque Island lies off the South side of Isla Brava, on the West side
of David Bay.
The shoal water which limits the bay trends to the N.N.E.
and to W.S.W. from this island. Off its S.E. point is Deer Island, the S.W.
point was made by Captain Wood to lie in lat. 8° 10′ 13″ N., long. 82°
13' 40" W.
The PARIDAS ISLANDS are a group at the western extremity of those
described as lying parallel to the coast and the chain of mountains which
runs through the isthmus. They consist of one large island, Parida, about
11 miles circumference at the West end; another, much smaller, Bolano or
Volano, near the eastern part of the cluster, and a crowd of islets and rocks
between the two. They are uninhabited, except during the season of the
pearl fishery, when a few people come to them.
Parida is well wooded but not high, and is the only one of the group that
affords water. According to Captain de Rosencoat, the only anchorage is in
the N.E. of the largest island, and is sheltered by that point, and by another
small long island (Isla Gami), which shelters the road from the South, and
where there is a good sandy beach for landing, the depth 7 fathoms mud.
To reach this anchorage from the eastward, and being South of the Benado
Islands, steer westward for the North point of Parida, taking care not to
go into less than 5 fathoms on the port hand.
The islands which run to the eastward for 4 miles from the South end of
Parida terminate in Bolaño (or Volaño) and Baraco to the S.E. of it; these
are the largest, the others are unimportant. At three-quarters of a mile
South of Baraco are some rocks, and there is also another at 12 mile E.N.E.
28
COAST OF NEW GRANADA.
of it. Midway between Bolaño and San José Island are a cluster called
Lenartes Islands in Captain Wood's chart.
Chimmo Bay is at the S.W. end of Parida, and has a line of islands
stretching to the N.W. from its southern point, the outermost of which is
called Sta. Cruz. The watering-place in Chimmo Bay is in its N.E. point.
There is a channel around the North end of Parida, but off the North end
of the island it is very narrow, though deep.
From Santa Cruz Point, the S.W. end of Parida, to the Boca San Pedro,
which is a more direct opening to the river leading to David, is 11 miles, the
interval being occupied by banks over which the sea breaks heavily and the
water very shoal. On the East side of the Boca San Pedro is the Isla Sevilla,
separated from Isla Brava before mentioned, by the Boca Brava. On Sevilla
abundance of game may be procured, deer, goats, &c. Although the natives.
say that the Boca San Pedro is practicable for boats, yet the French sur-
veyors arrived at an opposite conclusion, and that the Boca Chica was the
only one advisable.
The Coast between Chiriqui and Burica Point forms an extensive bay 34
miles wide. The north-eastern part of the bay is formed by a series of
islands formed like those of Chiriqui just described. The island of San Pedro
is the westernmost of those which belong to the River of David and the coast
continues a regular curve, first to the northward of West and then to the
southward, getting higher to the southward till it terminates in Point.
Burica.
There is no port or place of resort, although native report points out two
or three spots of local importance; of these, Guanavano, at the entrance of a
river about 15 miles North of the point, is one; another is Charco Azul, also
at the mouth of a river some miles to the South of it. These places, and the
coast generally, are quite safe as open anchorages.
The Ladrones (or Zedzones of Colnett) are two islets or rocks, moderately
high and barren, lying 13 miles S.S.W. from the S.W. point of Parida.
They are very steep-to, and 70 fathoms are found close to their southern
edge. They are quite safe in all directions, except to the North, where
some rocks lie a mile off.
At 4 miles North of the Ladrones is a dangerous reef, which does not even
show at low water, when there is 6 feet water over it. It lies with the
West side of Parida bearing N. 9° E., and the East side of the Ladrones
bearing South.
Montuosa is a lofty wooded island, completely isolated, 26 miles S.S.E. of
the Ladrones and 22 miles West of Coiba. It is safe, except some rocks to
the East of it, and is a good mark for approaching the coast.
Colnett says:-"It rises to a considerable height, and is 5 or 6 miles in
circumference, its summit covered with trees; the greater part are those
which bear the cocoa-nut, which gives it a very pleasant appearance; but
sea.
COSTA RICA.
29
islets and breakers extend off its East and West ends, to the distance of 3 or
4 miles. The bottom is rocky on the South side, as is the shore near the
There is a beach of sand behind some little creeks that run in between
the rocks, which makes a safe landing for boats. Here we went on shore,
and got a quantity of cocoa-nuts, with a few birds. The Spaniards or
Indians had lately been there to fish on the reef for pearls, and had left
great heaps of oyster-shells. There were a great plenty of parrots, doves,
and iguanas; and it is probable that other refreshments might be obtained,
of which we are ignorant. At all events, it may be useful to whalers or
cruisers, by offering a place where the sick may be landed and cocoa-nuts
procured, whose milk will supply the want of water."
POINT BURICA or Burrica is the western limit of the state of New
Granada. It makes afar off like an island with three summits equally
elevated and distant from each other; on nearing the cape another low
point is made out which seems at first like an island, but is afterwards seen
to form part of the point. To the southward of the point breakers extend
for a mile, and terminates in this direction by a large, high and isolated
rock, which forms an outer beacon. The cape may be seen in clear weather
35 miles off, and is thus an excellent landfall for ships coming either from
eastward or westward.
The territory of Burica, according to Mr. J. H. Smith (1854), does not
belong to the general government of New Granada, but is exempt from some
of the imposts. It extends from the Guanavano coast, on the East side of the
Burica peninsula, to the Rio Claro, which falls into the Golfo Dulce. The
coast between is an extensive region of cocoa-nut trees, 21 to 25 miles in
length. But this thinly populated and uncivilized region has but little claim
to exact political or social divisions, and its nomenclature and inland features
are alike vaguely known. The exclusive claim of New Granada to the
transit route across the isthmus has led to more attention being paid to its
boundaries than they otherwise deserve.
2. COSTA RICA.
and
The state of Costa Rica is one of the smallest in area and population of
the Central American Republics. It extends from Point Burica to a point
somewhere about Salinas Bay and the Lake of Nicaragua, but in this
northern part a territory is claimed which is disputed by Nicaragua. It
belonged to the latter state when the confederation was formed in 1826,
was then conceded to Costa Rica to give it weight in the federal congress.
But when the confederation was dissolved, it is contended that it should
have reverted to the original state. This district of Guanacaste, now called
Liberia, includes several of the proposed termini of the inter-oceanic canals
30
THE COAST OF COSTA RICA.
and railways, and this gives it an importance it does not otherwise possess.
In 1856 it was usually considered that Costa Rica terminated on the Pacific
coast, on the North side of Salmas Bay.
The soil of Costa Rica is exceedingly productive. On the "tierras cali-
entes," or torrid lands, which run back from the Pacific up to an elevation
of 3,000 feet, almost all the tropical productions abound. Above these are
the "tierras templadas," which are terraces making out from the main
Cordilleras (following very nearly the longitudinal axis of the stato in a
north-west and south-east direction), and are from 3,000 to 5,000 feet above
the level of the sea, producing sugar-cane, potatoes, corn, coffee, oranges,
&c., in great perfection.
Still above the terras templadas are the tierras frias, or cool lands, which
are from 5,000 to 6,000 feet above the ocean level, among which several
volcanoes shoot up, varying from 8,000 to 11,000 feet in height. The forests
which extend over a large portion of the republic, abound in timber suitable
for ship-building; also mahogany, brazil, and various other valuable dye-
woods.
The cultivated portion of Costa Rica lies principally within the valley of
the Rio Grande, which flows down the western slope of the main mountain
range into the Gulf of Nicoya. Fully seven-eighths of all the inhabitants
are here concentrated, in a district not exceeding fifty miles in length by an
average of twenty in breadth.
The Coast from Point Burica trends generally to the north-west, and is as
before stated low, and covered with cocoa-nut trees. There are no places of
interest, and only four Indian villages on the space of 25 miles between that
point and Point Platanal, near the entrance of the Golfo Dulce. At 5 or 6
miles from the South point is a projection called Punta Gorda. The inter-
mediate coast has not been surveyed, but is believed to be safe. A running
survey of the coast and harbours beyond Point Platanal, as far as Istapa,
was made by Capt. T. de Lapelin, in the French corvette La Brillante, in
1852, and from his pamphlet the following directions are chiefly taken.
The GULF of DULCE lies 30 miles to the N.W. of Pt. Burica. But very
little was known of it till in 1849 a concession was made to a French com-
pany, and in 1850 a plan of it was made by M. Louis Cheron, and again in
in 1852, when its shores and capabilities were examined by the officers under
Capt. de Lapelin. From this it would appear to be one of the best points.
of the old Spanish territory for European colonization, considering its fer-
tility, healthiness, and safety of its navigation. The gulf is recognisable at
a great distance. Its outer points are well marked, and are 18 miles apart,
East and West.
Point Matapalo, on the West, is the South extremity of the peninsula and
of the Cerro de Sal si Puedes. It is high, steep, and covered with trees,
PUNTA ARENITAS.
31
with some reddish coloured land-slips. At a mile E. by S. of it is an isolated
rock 10 or 12 fect high, easily seen in all directions.
Pt. Platanal, the eastern point, is the South end of a promontory formed
by the chain of mountains which separates the low lands of Burica from the
plain of the Rio Coto. This promontory is terminated to the North by a
round-topped peak, covered with trees, rather higher (2,329 feet) than those
near it. This hill will indicate the Punta del Banco. All the shores of the
entrance are clear and free from danger; but in coming hither it is well to
make Cape Matapalo, as the only habitations are on the West side, at the
Punta Arenitas, and on this side also are convenient anchorages in case of
being becalmed during the ebb, as throughout the gulf, except in the Rio
Coto Bay, the depths are 20 and 30 fathoms at 2 to 4 cables from the shore,
and then deepening to 50 and 100 fathoms.
The outer portion of the gulf runs in a N. and S. direction 22 miles, with
a breadth of 16 miles; beyond this it runs to N.W. for 25 miles to the foot
of the Cordillera, where it is 10 miles wide. From Point Matapalo to the
Rio Rincon at its N.W. end, an extensive plain extends to the sloping foot
of the Cerro de Sal si Puedes. The shore is all low and wooded. To the
North of Pt. Matapalo is Pt. del Sombrero, and 3 miles further that of Tigrito.
Off these two points are some rocks above water, those off Sombrero extend-
ing half a mile, and off Tigrito three-fourths of a mile. These are the only
dangers in approaching Punta Arenitas.
is seen.
PUNTA ARENITAS* is 9 miles beyond Pta. del Tigrito. It appears to
be low and entirely covered with wood. It is not until close to that the
houses covered with palmetto trees and the flagstaff on the bare sandy tongue
At a cable's length East of the point is a coral bank, which par-
tially dries at low water. Its greatest breadth East and West is two cables,
and it is twice that length North and South. Its edges are very steep-to,
and small vessels can pass between it and the point. You may anchor to
the N.W. or to the S.E. of the village. The latter is the best for vessels
making but a short stay, and they will here get the sea-breezes and avoid
the excessive heat occasioned by the shelter of the point. To take this an-
chorage, bring the flagstaff or the last cluster of houses to bear W. by N.,
and the Pt. del Tigrito to South, at less than a mile from the shore in 10 to
11 fathoms, bottom green mud. To reach the anchorage North of the vil-
lage, having passed the coral bank, bear to the West, steering for an estero
(or creek), distinguishable from some large trees with white trunks, with
foliage only on the tops. As soon as the flagstaff or the outer houses bear
E. of S.E. drop anchor in about 16 fathoms, bottom of green mud. This
* Punta Arenitas is called Punta Arenas (Sandy point) on most charts, but the distinc-
tion is here made that it may not be confused with the more important Punta Arenas, the
chief port of the republic, in the Gulf of Nicoya,
32
THE COAST OF COSTA RICA.
inner anchorage is very good, and any repairs may be done in great security,
but if it is necessary to heave down to the keel it is better to go to El Golfito.
To communicate with the village, you can land to the North of the peninsula
at the entrance of a creek; this point is so steep-to that you can lay along-
side as at a quay.
Fresh provisions, in small quantities, may be got at Punta Arenitas.
Firewood is also cheap; bullocks are to be got at the hacienda del Tigre.
The neighbouring forests are rich in spars and timber, but you must cut it
yourself. Water is to be got at the River del Tigre, 5 miles to the north-
ward between half-flood and half-ebb. The French company before alluded
to intended to establish themselves on the banks of the River del Tigre. A
large house built by them distinguishes the Point del Tirgre.
It is high water, full and change, at Punta Arenitas at 3h 15m. The
greatest rise is 10 feet 3 inches; mean rise 5 feet. The tides are regular
throughout the gulf.
The NORTH-EAST SHORE of the gulf is formed by the base of the cordillera,
which entends from the Rio Rincon to the Golfito. Its rugged slopes are
covered with an impenetrable forest, and leave but a very narrow beach
here and there. At 9 miles N.E. by E. from the River Rincon are the Islotes,
a small group composed of rocks and coral banks, on which they fish for
pearls and mother-o'-pearl. The cordillera then runs for 21 miles E.S.E.,
terminating at the Golfito. At 4 miles from las Islotes is the moth of the
Rio de las Esquinas, which traverses a large and very marshy valley near
the sea.
At 10 miles E. 18° S. from Pta. de las Esquinas there are some
rocks indicating Cape San José; around these rocks they fish for mother-o'-
pearl.
The Golfito entrance is 800 yards wide, and the passage in mid-channel
between the high and well-marked point to the North, and long narrow
sandy tongue to the S.W. has a depth of 5 to 6 fathoms. This sandy
neck divides the Golfito into two parts, in either of which you may anchor,
but if in the eastern part it is not advisable to bring the houses on the point
to North of W.N.W. The Golfito is a landlocked basin, where you may
heave down and careen, but unfortunately in all seasons it rains nearly every
day, and storms are frequent. The watering-place is in the North part of
this small gulf, but the casks must be filled at low water, and floated off at
high water.
The RIO COTO, the largest stream which enters the Gulf of Dulce, is 7
miles southward of the Golfito. It is not navigable. From its mouth a
bank extends to the northwards, which joins the tongue which divides the
Golfito. The coast is low, sandy, with a violent surf, and covered with
cocoa-nut trees. To the southward of the river, the coast, though low, is
clean as far as the Pta. del Banco, the S.E. point of the Gulf of Dulce.
The Gulf of Dulce, during the fine season, is under the influence of the
CANO ISLAND.
33
land and sea breezes (the virazon and terral), the former blowing from S.E.
to S.W. between 11 a.m. and sunset, when it is replaced by the terral blow-
ing from N. to W. Notwithstanding its hot and humid climate, the gulf is
considered healthy by the natives, but this can afford but little evidence of
its effects upon European colonists.
The Coast beyond Punta Matapalo extends for 20 miles to the W.N.W.
to the high and abrupt Pta. Sal si Puedes. It is a narrow and sandy beach,
forming a large cocoa-nut grove, behind which rises the Cerro. It is very
steep-to, for at less than half a mile off shore, in the shoalest part, there is
more than 40 fathoms, a strong surf usually beating on this shore.*
At the point Sal si Puedes the Cerro approaches the beach, and at less
than a mile off the point is a round bare rock, called the Choncha Pelona,
around which the water is very deep, but you cannot pass inside it.
From Pta. Sal si Puedes to Pta. Llorona the distance is 14 miles in a
N. 47° W. direction. Between these points is the Corcovado, a large rock 35
feet high, at the outer end of a reef composed of rocks above water. The
irregularity of the depth and the colour of the water, and the breakers off
shore between the two points, seem to indicate danger near the land.
Pta. Llorona is high, steep, wooded, and formed of cliffs partially covered
with a rich vegetation, and a cascade falls over one of its perpendicular pre-
cipices. Several islets lie within a few cables lengths of the point. Cape
San Pedro is 3 miles N. by E. from Pta. Llorona; near it is a rocky islet
with a few shrubs on it, and joined to the land by a chain of rocks, which
also project a cable's length seaward from it. This group shelters a part of
the sandy beach called the Port de San Pedro, distinguished by a rock sur-
mounted by a single tree. On this beach also in a small indentation called
the Puertecito de S. Pedro, are some ranchos of Indians who come hither to
find the purple dye. Cape San José is a spur of the chain of hills which
overhangs the coast; it may be known by a rastrado or a large green patch,
bare of trees.
CANO ISLAND is 10 miles to the West of Cape S. Pedro. It is mode-
rately high and is level. At its N.E. point are a few breakers, and off its
West point some sunken rocks extend for half a mile. With this exception,
it may be approached on all sides, though it is not advisable to do so from
the eastward, as the current drifts towards these last-named rocks. On the
N.W. side is a spring and some banana trees, on a sandy beach, where the
landing is easy, and where the bongos come to collect the caoutchouc, which
is abundant on this island.
* The name Sal si Puedes (get out if you can), applied to this beach, is said to be derived
from the fact that the bongos which come here to load with cocoa-nuts, though able to
land easily at times, have great difficulty and detention in embarking through the formida-
ble surf.
North Pacific.
D
34
THE COAST OF COSTA RICA.
The Rio Ajuja debouches in the angle where the high land of Cape San
Pedro joins the beach running to the North. It is the best shelter that the
bongos find between the Gulf of Dulce and that of Nicoya, and is the only
place where watering is easy. To the northward of this the coast is high
and wooded; its narrow beach is interrupted by the mouths of the Granado
and the Idraque, and beyond these is the Boca Sierpe. To the North of
these again is Pta. Violin, off which is a small wooded islet of the same
name. At a mile North of this are the Sacate Islets. The coast here forms the
narrowest part of the isthmus, which separates the ocean from the head of
the Gulf of Dulce.
From hence the coast runs to the North for 22 miles, and is uniformly low
and wooded. Inland is an extensive marshy plain, on which it is said is a
large lake, and is watered by the Rio Burruca. Through this level coast
are four bocas or mouths to the river and the lake, and it is said by the
natives that these communicate with each other, so that a bongo entering at
Sierpe can come out at any of them, or at Punta Mala de los Indios. At the
North end of the plain the coast is quite clear and the depths diminish
gradually.
At Punta Mala is a perpendicular cliff, and the high coast here turns to
the westward and N.W. This coast is formed by a spur from the cordillera,
and extends for 14 miles to Point Dominical. At Point Ubita, midway, a reef
and some rocks shelter an anchorage, which is said to be deep enough for
any vessel, and that water may be procured easily at the Rio Ubita here.
It is constantly frequented by the Indians.
At 3 miles from Ubita is a large reddish coloured rock called La Ballena,
and at a mile East from this are three small and pointed rocks called La
Ballenita. Point Naranjo is 9 miles from Point Dominical; the coast be-
tween is a sandy beach, traversed by some inaccessible rivers and is quite
clear.
At 5 miles N.W. from this point is that of Las Quepos, covered with trees.
Between these points are a number of islets and rocks, forming two distinct.
groups, which are connected with the shore. The southernmost group are
called the Naranjos, the northern the Quepos. The largest of the latter group
is called Manuel Antonio, and shows a remarkable gap. It shelters a small
sandy bay, fit for the bongos which come fishing for turtle.
Point Mala is 22 miles West of the Quepos, the coast between being a
sandy beach, beaten by a continual surf, without landing place. Near Pta.
Mala there is a line of cocoa-nut trees a mile in length. The point is very
low, and covered with trees and mangroves. To the South of it extends a
reef of rocks and islets a mile and a half in extent. The depth is very irre-
gular on its edges, and the current drifts past it to the westward, frequently
at 2 miles, and never less than 1 mile an hour.
Point Guapilon is 6 miles from Pta. Mala; the coast between is sandy and
GULF OF NICOYA-CAPE BLANCO.
35
low, but is lined with breakers to 3 or 4 cables' lengths off abreast the small
rivers Usubre and Tusubre. Off Point Guapilon are two rocks awash, on
which the sea breaks; they are half a mile off the point, and have a depth
of 9 and 10 fathoms between them and the point. At 4 miles W.N.W. is
Herradura Isle, which shelters the harbour of that name.
Port Herradura is at the S.E. entrance to the Gulf of Nicoya. It is a
horse-shoe bay, as its name indicates, facing the West, and is 13 mile wide
between the West point of Caño Island on its South side, and Herradura
Point to the North. Caño Island is covered with trees, and has a reef all
around it, which connects it with the shore. The northern point of the bay
is also bold and rocky, and a reef skirts it on all sides for some distance, but
the edge of this reef is steep-to, as is the case all round the bay, and there-
fore the shores should be carefully approached.
4
A sunken rock, nearly awash, has been found in the middle of the bay since
the survey. It lies with a house on the beach bearing N.E. & N. three-
quarters of a mile, and the pinnacle of Caño S. W. by S. nine-tenths of a mile.
At the head of the bay is a watering-place, where excellent water may be
obtained. Sir Edward Belcher says that twenty casks at a time may be
obtained by rolling them into a small lake on the beach. This lake was made
to be in lat. 9° 38' 30" N., long. 84° 36' 7" W. The anchorage is off this
watering-place in 5 to 8 fathoms, but vessels may ride close to the shore by
veering the whole cable with a warp to the beach.
The GULF of NICOYA was surveyed by Sir Edw. Belcher in the Blossom
in Jan., 1839. His fine chart has long been published. It was also exa-
mined by Captain de Lapelin in La Brillante, and we derive much of what
follows from that officer's remarks.
CAPE BLANCO is the south-westernmost point of the bay, and is thus
described by Dampier:-"Cape Blanco, is so called from two white rocks
lying off it. When we are off at sea right against the cape, they appear as
part of the cape; but being near the shore, either to the eastward or west-
ward of the cape, they appear like two ships under sail at first view, but
coming nearer, they are like two high towers, they being small, high, steep
on all sides; and they are about half a mile from the cape. This cape is
about the height of Beachy Head in England, on the coast of Sussex. It is
a full point, with steep rocks to the sea. The top of it is flat and even for
about a mile; then it gradually falls away on each side with a gentle descent.
It appears very pleasant, being covered with great lofty trees.*
* To the westward of Cape Blanco a bank is marked on the charts; Captain de Lapelin
doubts its existence, but was unable to verify it. The coast thence trends to N.W. It is
steep and densely wooded: the higher hills rarely exceed Cape Blanco in elevation. The
beach is of sand, separated by rocks into an infinity of bays, which will offer easy landing-
places.
2 D
36
THE COAST OF COSTA RICA.
The entrance to the Gulf of Nicoya is distinctly marked by Cape Blanco
on the West, and Point Herradura on the East, forming an opening 30 miles
wide. Cape Blanco is the point that has been generally made by keeping a
little to the East of its meridian; but there is probably some advantage
gained by making the eastern side as the currents shift to westward, and the
distance would be rather shorter.
Cape Blanco may be seen at 25 miles distance when to the N.N.W., ap-
pearing then like an island, the top of which is flat, and having near its
centre a slight indentation. Several white patches also serve to distinguish
the cape from the land at the back of it. The largest and lowest white spot
is formed by an islet quite white, lying South of the cape, from which it is
separated by a channel a mile wide; but it does not appear to be detached
until you are within 10 or 15 miles. It is only when Cape Blanco is seen
from the West, or to the North of West, that its true termination can be
seen; being much lower than the surrounding land, it projects like an island
and falls abruptly towards the sea. At the same time a small needle-shaped
rock will be seen a little to the South of the islet.
The Pta. de la Herradura, which forms the northern side of the harbour
of the same name, is a large rounded hill on the high land. A large rocky
.slet, covered with trees of nearly equal height with the point, lies off the S.
point, leaving a narrow impracticable passage.
As far as the anchorage of Punta Arenas, the Gulf of Nicoya has no
danger that is not visible. All the points and the shores may be approached
to within two miles. The islands are numerous, and some of them large;
they are covered with trees, but are uninhabited, and at present possess no
interest whatever. The western part of the gulf is nearly a desert, and the
ports which as yet have not been frequented, lie on the East side; these are
those of Herradura, Calderas, and Punta Arenas. The bay of Tarcoles also
affords a good anchorage, where communication is easy with the shore.
The harbour of Herradura is a good anchorage, is uninhabited, and with-
out any communication with the interior; it has no other resources than an
excellent and abundant watering place.
CALDERA was the port of entry for Costa Rica till 1840, at which time its
unhealthiness caused it to be abandoned for Punta de Arenas, notwithstand-
ing its security, and its proximity to the capital. It is about 12 miles N.E.
of Cape Blanco.
* Calderas possesses a peculiar interest at the present moment, as it is said to be the ter-
minus of one of the inter-oceanic communications. According to a report, published in
1866, by Mr. F. Kurtze, C.E., director of the public works of Costa Rica, a waggon road
from sea to sea was just completed, starting from Port Limon, near Point Blanco, 60 miles
South of Greytown, on the Atlantic side, crossing the summit level near Cartago, 5,118 feet
above the sea, passing near San José the capital, terminates at Calderas. It is a macadam-
PUNTA ARENAS.
37
PUNTA ARENAS,-In 1840, Punta Arenas was declared a free port, and
has become the most important commercial place on all the coast of Central
America. It is the only port of the state of Costa Rica, which is frequented
on the Pacific, and through it almost all its exports and imports pass. The
sandy peninsula on which the village stands shelters an interior anchorage,
called the Estero, into which, at high water, vessels drawing 13 feet can
enter; to the South of it is a spacious roadstead, with an average depth of
5 fathoms, which, although secure in the fine season, requires some precau-
tions against the summer winds.
Its streets are straight
They extend along the
Punta Arenas has a population of about 1,500.
and regular, but disagreeable from the sandy soil.
Estero, by which all communications with the outer road take place.
In entering the Gulf of Nicoya the only precaution necessary is to hug
the eastern shore, for the ebb tide, which runs to S.W. to the South of the
Negritos, is less felt, and the depth, though great, is less than on the
western side; so that in case of a calm, or contrary current, an anchorage is
more readily found; or you may be drifted out of the gulf, or else on to the
Negritos, near to which the depths are great. You may readily know them
by a large black rock in front of them, having the appearance of a sail.
Soon after passing the line East and West of the Negritos, you will see be-
tween these islands and that of San Lucas, two remarkable islets.
The first of these is called Cagaves (the Aves of Sir Edward Belcher), is like
a circus open to the East formed by perpendicular rocks, crowned with trees,
and surrounded by a beach of pebbles covered at high water. The second
is a conical, lofty, and wooded rock, sufficiently designated by its name Pan
de Azucar (Sugar-loaf). Having made these islets, you will next discover
the lighthouse rising from the trees. It is on a yellow tower of several
stages, elevated 66 feet above the sea, and showing a fixed light, visible 10
miles off. At the same time you will see, but much more to the left, a large
building, which serves as a custom-house. This is the most westerly build-
ing, and nearest to the Puntilla de Punta Arenas. It is painted white, and
covered with tiles, and near a cluster of cocoa-nut trees, the only ones on
the peninsula.
The custom-house or the lighthouse being well made out before being
East and West with the Pan de Azucar, steer so as to bring the first not
more North than N.N.W., or the second to the North of North by West, so
ised road, 60 feet wide, with cut-stone bridges, and with ample width for constructing a
railroad over much of its course.
Two canals have also been proposed to terminate in the Gulf of Nicoya, one from the river
San Juan, by the Rio San Carlos, terminating near Punta Arenas; and a second from the
Lake Nicaragua by the Rio Nino, and the Rio Tempisque, which falls into the head of the
Gulf of Nicoya. Neither of these canal projects have been surveyed.
38
THE COAST OF COSTA RICA.
as to avoid the banks of Punta Arenas, which limit the road to the North
and West.* It will be necessary to keep close to the bearings here laid
down, for to the North of the Negritos the flood tide runs very strongly to
the W.N.W., and the ebb to E.S.E. These banks, formed by the rivers
Aranjuez and Baranca, are separated from Punta Arenas by the channel of
the Estero, the depth and direction of which change with every tide.
Having approached the anchorage on the foregoing bearings, you must an-
chor when the Pan de Azucar bears S.W. W., or the Cagaves S.W. This
position is a mile from the Puntilla de Punta Arenas, in a depth of 5 to 6½
fathoms, fine sandy mud, and easy of communication with the village at all
times of tide. A little farther to the East the bottom is better for holding,
being more mud than sand; the lighthouse will then bear N. 28° W., the
custom-house N. 39' W., the Pan de Azucar S. 52° W., and the Cagaves S.
43° W. These anchorages may be taken during the fine season, or from
November to June; but during the summer they are too near the banks,
as the bottom is continually shifting from the strong currents, and you may
be drifted on to the banks. The better position at this time will be with the
custom-house to N.W. & N., the lighthouse N.N.W., and the Pan de Azucar
W.S.W. in 5 fathoms, muddy sand. It will be as well to moor S.E. and
N.W., to avoid the chances of fouling your anchor by the continual swing-
ing of the ship.
The anchorage of the Estero cannot be taken without a pilot. The charges.
for this are 6 reals for each Spanish foot (10 9-10 English inches) draught.
The tides are regular at Punta Arenas; their maximum velocity is 1
knots, and the average 1 knot. The establishment of the port at Punta
Arenas is 3h 10m, and the range at springs 10 ft. 2 in.
Water is to be procured at the Rio Baranca, 7 miles to the East of the
anchorage. The bar can only be passed between half flood and half ebb.
The river must be ascended for a mile, until the boat grounds, before which
the water is not fresh, and even then is sometimes not very good. On account
of the tides, not more than two trips can be made in the day. Fresh pro-
visions are abundant, but live bullocks cannot be easily procured. Sea
stock may frequently be procured, but not in large quantities. Realejo
offers greater advantages on this score. The healthiness of Punta Arenas is
but comparative; fever is prevalent throughout the year, attacking natives
and strangers alike, but milder during the fine season than in the oppo-
site one.
* If the lighthouse nor the town be not made out before having passed the parallel of the
Pan de Azucar, and thus bearing to N. of N.N.W. or N. by W., it will be necessary to fall
back again to the southward before bringing these marks on, for without doing this there
will be a risk of getting on to the banks which project to the S.E.
PUNTA ARENAS.
39
There is no coasting trade in Costa Rica, as there is only one port open on
the Pacific. The carrying trade along the coast of Central America is entirely
monopolized by the steamers of the Panama Railroad Company, and although
the expense of forwarding merchandise by Panama is three times as much
as by Cape Horn, still the certainty and speed of the one will ultimately
quite supersede the other.
Punta Arenas was a free port till January, 1861; since then customs
duties have been collected, but the shipping dues have not been altered.
These are 5 dollars (£1) for license, 1 dollar per man for hospital dues,
real (3d.) per ton lighthouse dues.
Owing to the partial filling up of the harbour, vessels are obliged to lie
much farther off than formerly, and there is some trouble in landing, &c.,
at low water. With steamers, which arrive at all hours of the day and
night, much damage is done to the goods in the launches by rain and spray.
The lighthouse is not in good order, and much reliance should not be placed
on it. On account of the deterioration of Punta Arenas, it was proposed to
remove the port to Tarcoles, a spot to the eastward, and nearer to the capital;
but it was negatived by the congress in 1864. The restrictive policy of the
Government has much reduced the prosperity of the port, which is now little
more than a depot.
The COAST to the north-westward of Cape Blanco is almost unknown. A
very imperfect survey of it was made by Mr. Hull, R.N., in 1859, and Capt.
de Lapelin also made a slight sketch of it, but the two do not agree. The
coast is high and wooded, and has a beach of white sand interrupted at inter-
vals by reddish coloured cliffs. Cape Guiones of De Lapelin is marked on
his chart at 18 miles from Cape Blanco, and 30 miles farther is Morro Her-
moso, but Mr. Hull did not observe anything prominent in these positions.
Beyond them is Cape Velas, in lat. 10° 13′ N., long. 85° 48′ W.* It is so
called from the rock being sometimes mistaken for a sail.f
* We lay along a deep bay, and passed some very remarkable rocks or rocky islands,
white with green tops, the Port of Matapala bearing S.S.E. Between that and these rocky
islands a number of small, high, white rocks shot up, resembling vessels under sail : bearing
E., E. by N., and E.N.E., a little bay extending landwards, and called, as I suppose, from
these little rocks, "Puerto Velas."-G. U. Skinner, Esq.
+ Captain de Lapelin says that he found neither point nor hillock noticeable in the posi-
tion assigned to Cape Velas and the Morro Hermoso, and in his passage from the North it
was not until he reached lat. 9° 53′ N., long. 85° 52′ W., that is 21 miles farther South, and
12 miles West of that assigned to Cape Velas, that they saw a greyish cliff, slightly project-
ing from the line of coast, perpendicular, and surmounted by some trees. The sea broke
on a reef at its foot, which extended a mile and a half. It also broke on the numerous de-
tached rocks to the South of a white sand islet, on which two rocks stood, appearing like
40
THE COAST OF COSTA RICA.
The BIGHT of PAPAGAYO may be said to commence here, extending
to the northward to Realejo, being but a slight curve in the general line of
coast. It is scarcely worthy of the name, but becomes more familiar from the
fact of the peculiar winds experienced off it called by the name, which are
elsewhere described. Suffice it here to state, that the papagayo is a strong
wind, blowing from N.E. to E. by N., with a bright, clear sky overhead,
and a glaring sun, with a dense atmosphere.
At Cape Velas, Captain Sir Edward Belcher lost the papagayo; "there-
fore," he says, "the limits may be included in a line drawn from Cape De-
solado to Point Velas, and it is rather a curious phenomenon that the
strength of this breeze seldom ranges so far as this chord, but seems to prefer
a curve at a distance of 15 or 20 miles from the land."
In passing the Bight of Papagayo it is considered best to keep at 5 or 6
miles off shore rather than farther off; the squalls and calms are of shorter
duration, and less force at this distance than in the offing. Should this course
be impracticable, a distance of 10 or 15 leagues should be taken. In pro-
ceeding to the North the wind will be found to veer more to the East.
*
Gorda Point, according to the chart, lies 18 miles northward of Cape
Velas, in lat. 10° 31' N., long. 85° 43′ W. At this point the coast turns ab-
ruptly to the E.N.E., towards Port Culebra.
Off Point Gorda are several high rocks, the two largest, which are close
together, are about 2 or 3 miles from the land, the others lay principally
more to the North and N.E.; they were all high, and the smaller ones have
very much the appearance of upright tombstones; others again, at first
sight, appear like a ship under canvas.
PORT CULEBRA was surveyed by Captain Sir Edward Belcher in 1838.
spot at which he observed, at the head of the port, he places in lat. 10° 36'
55" N., long. 85° 33' 30" W.; variation 7° 5′ 54″ E.
variation 7° 5′ 54″ E. The entrance to the
port is between the North and South Viradores, some detached cliffy islands,
1 miles apart. Between the South Viradores and Cacique Point, to the
N.W. of which they lie, there is a channel of 5 to 10 fathoms; but, as a
rocky reef runs off a quarter of a mile to the West of the point, and some
detached rocks lie South of the Viradores, it should not be used.
Cocos Bay lies to the southward of the South Viradores, and between Ca-
cique Point and Miga Point, bearing S.W. by S. from the former: the dis-
tance is about 1 mile. These points are both rocky cliffs, surmounted by
hills. Cocos Bay may be about a mile in depth within the line of opening.
sails. This cliff, called Capo Guiones (for the local pilots knew no point under the name of
Las Velas), is 30 miles W.N.W. of Cape Blanco, and 20 miles West of the coast laid down
on the charts.
* Point Catalina (of Bauza): from the disjointed portions or islands, it might have caused
that of Murcielagos to be mistaken for it.-Voyage of the Sulphur, vol. i, p. 185.
CAPE ELENA.
41
The bottom is formed by a sandy beach, off the South part of which a line
of rocks runs North about a quarter of a mile, and another small rock lies
in its eastern part. It lies entirely open to the N.W. Sesga Point lies a
mile and a half S.W. from Miga Point, the West extreme of the bay, and
midway between is a cliffy islet. To the eastward of Cacique Point is a
similar bay to Cocos Bay, having about the same width to Buena Point,
which forms the South Point of Port Culebra, which extends nearly 4 miles
within the two entrance points, Buena and Mala, a mile asunder; and is
about two miles wide, the depth even, 6 to 18 fathoms, and anchorage
everywhere.
Port Culebra is certainly magnificent; and from information by the na-
tives, it is connected with Salinas, and thence to Nicaragua, Granada, &c.
If any railroad is contemplated in this quarter, it ought to enter at the Bay
of Salinas, which would render these two ports important.
Water fit for consumption was not found at the beach, but may be obtained
a short distance up the creek, which a boat may enter at high water. If
wells were dug, doubtless it would be found at the N.W. side, as the sur-
rounding country is mountainous. Another symptom in favour of this is the
thickly-wooded sides and summits, as well as bright green spots of vegeta-
tion throughout the bay.
Brazil wood is very abundant; mahogany and cedar were observed near
the beach, but as they have been employed cutting the Brazil, probably all
the cedar and mahogany, easily attainable, has been taken. Timber, in
great variety, abounded. In the bay, where H.M.S. Starling was at anchor
there was a large village, where the natives were anxious to dispose of their
productions, consisting of fruit, stock, cattle, &c.
The Murcielagos lie to the southward of Cape St. Elena; their number
is considerable. Two rocks lie to the West of the group more than a mile
off, according to Captain de Lapelin, but they are not shown on the English
nor the later French charts.
Sir Edward Belcher says the Murcielagos or Bat Islands are eight in num-
ber, and almost form two distinct harbours, the smaller islands making a
crescent by the South, one large island protecting the East, and another of
similar size forming the line of separation. He anchored in the inner or
eastern harbour, and completed his water at a very convenient position, in
32 fathoms, with a hawser fast to the shore.
The springs are numerous, and there are tolerable rivulets; but only that
they watered at (between the centre point and the main) is safe to approach,
by reason of the constant surf. The gulf squalls, even in this sheltered
position, come down the gullies with great force, and impeded the work as
well as endangered the boats. The geological character of the cape and
islands is a schistose serpentine, containing balls of noble serpentine.
CAPE ELENA (or Sta. Elena) is 23 miles North of Gorda Point, and is
42
THE COAST OF COSTA RICA.
the western extremity of the peninsula which separates the Murcielagos from
Elena Bay. Lieutenant Boucarut, who examined this coast in the French
corvette La Constantine, in 1859, applies this name to the western point, and
calls another projection 43 miles to the N.E. Point Elena. They are each
bold, but at one or two cables' lengths from the first point is a sunken rock,
and at a mile West of the second point is another, which require all caution
in approaching Elena Bay.
The peninsula, of which these points are the West and north-west
extremes, is like a long prism, the sharpest angle uppermost. The ridge is
much serrated, and on its North side is even and very steep. It is quite
barren.
ST. ELENA BAY (or Elena Bay) is 9 miles to the eastward of the inner
point, and is about 5 miles wide in the opening. Its northern point is Point
Descartes, at a mile due West of which a sunken rock is marked on the
French chart; and a second rock, at a quarter of a mile in the same direc-
tion. In the S. E. angle of the bay is a smaller inlet, Tomas Bay, open to
the N.W., three-quarters of a mile wide at the entrance, in which the depth
is from 8 to 12 fathoms, and probably affords anchorage and shelter from
the S.W., particularly in a channel to the West of a peninsula which
separates its head into two inner bays. There are several islets in the Elena
Bay, of which Vagares, lying off the entrance of Tomas Bay, is the
southernmost. At 1 mile North of this is a higher island, Juanilla; and at
a mile S.S.E. from Point Descartes is another, Despensa.
SALINAS BAY was more exactly surveyed by Lieutenant Boucarut, in
the French vessel Constantine, in 1859.* Between Point Sacate, which is 2
miles N.N.E. of Point Descartes and Point Arauca Barba on the North side,
the entrance is 2 miles wide, and the depths 18 to 20 fathoms. From this
line to a narrow sandy beach at its head the depth of the bay is 4 miles, and
the depth gradually shoalens to 7 and 4 fathoms. Salinas Island is placed
by Sir Edward Belcher in lat. 11° 2′ 50″ N., long. 85° 40′ 45″ W. It lies on
the South side of the bay, and is almost connected with the South shore by
a shoal which has from 3 feet to 16 feet water on it, but 7 fathoms between
the shoal and the S.W. coast. On the North side of the bay a reef of rocks
lies against the shore, called El Osteonal. To enter Salinas Bay, a good
mark, according to Captain de Lapelin, is to bring the sharp volcanic Peak
of Orosi, cleft on the summit and 5,200 feet high, to bear S. 83° E., which
will lead up to the island, under the shelter of which there is good anchorage
in the season of the West and S.W. winds.
* Salinas Bay is one of the Pacific ports proposed for an inter-oceanic canal. The line
is from the Nicaragua Lake by the Sapoa Valley to the southern part of the bay on the
Pacific Coast.
STATE OF NICARAGUA.
43
Salinas Bay offers many facilities for commercial purposes, and being
separated by only a narrow isthmus 20 miles wide from Lake Nicaragua, it
has attracted attention as an advantageous terminus for an inter-oceanic
canal. It is in the disputed department of Guanacaste.
Cape Nathan is 43 miles W.N.W. from the North point of Salinas Bay,
the coast between being much broken up into small bays, with bluff project-
ing points between them. Some islets lie to the West and N.W. of the cape
at a quarter of a mile distant, but the water is deep close outside them. The
same irregular and bold coast continues for 7 miles farther to N.W. to the
southern entrance point of San Juan del Sur.
3. NICARAGUA.
The Republic of Nicaragua is commercially one of the most unimportant
States in the world. Its 300,000 inhabitants, of whom not one-tenth are
whites, produce or require but little for the rest of the world. Were it
not for its magnificent line of lakes, by which an accessory Transit Route
was once established under the auspices of Mr. Vanderbilt, it would not be
worth notice. Since the state has thrown off the yoke of Spain, it has
gradually sunk in power and wealth, and the few respectable inhabitants.
have small weight in state affairs. The northern part of the republic is
mountainous, but the southern part is a vast plain, in which lie the famous
lakes, being about 200 miles long and 100 miles broad, consisting for the
most part of fine savannahs. The great Sierra Madre range, bristling with
high volcanic peaks, passes through the western part, broken by the above
valley, and the lakes leave but a narrow neck of land between them and
the Pacific coasts. This physical condition of this part of the American
isthmus has attracted much attention for the great question of the communi-
cation between the two oceans. Leon, a fine old Spanish city, about a day's
journey from Realejo, the Pacific seaport, is usually (but not always) the
capital of the republic. A good account of the State is given in Captain
Bedford Pim's work, "The Gate of the Pacific," 1863.*
* The positions of the various points between the Gulf of Nicoya and that of Fonseca,
were well determined by Sir Edward Belcher, whose results have been confirmed by other
officers. The longitudes of Captain de Lapelin differ from them by from 6' to 8' farther to
westward; but as the chronometers of La Brillante were not verified for six months from the
meridian of Callao (not from Panama), they cannot be preferred to the longitudes obtained
in the Sulphur. In the table of positions, at the commencement of this volume, the best
determinations are preferred.
44
THE COAST OF NICARAGUA.
PORT SAN JUAN DEL SUR.-This portion of the coast is interesting,
on account of its proximity to the navigable Lake of Nicaragua; but it is for
this reason only, as with the exception of the Port of San Juan, called del
Sur, to distinguish it from the other San Juan in this state, at the mouth of
the River San Juan de Nicaragua, in the Caribbean Sea, it scarcely possesses
any harbour or foreign trade, except in dye-wood.
The South bluff of Port San Juan is in lat. 11° 15′ 12″, long. 85° 53′.
The proposed communication with the Atlantic, by Mr. Baily,* was to ter-
minate here—a canal, 15 miles in length, cut across the narrow tract,
separating this port from the Lake of Nicaragua, which, with the Rio San
Juan, would form the navigable connexion.
Mr. Stephens says: "Our encampment was about the centre of the har-
bour, which was the finest I saw in the Pacific. It is not large, but beauti-
fully protected, being almost in the form of the letter U. The arms are high
and parallel, running nearly North and South, and terminating in high per-
pendicular bluffs. As I afterwards learned from Mr. Baily, the water is
deep, and under either bluff, according to the wind, vessels of the largest
class can ride with perfect safety. Supposing this to be correct, there is but
one objection to this harbour, which I derive from Capt. D'Yriaste, with
whom I made the voyage from Zonzonate to Caldera. He told me that
during the summer months, from November to May, the strong North winds
which sweep over the Lake of Nicaragua, pass with such violence through
the Gulf of Papagayo, that during the prevalence of these winds it is almost
impossible for a vessel to enter the Port of San Juan.
“The harbour was perfectly desolate, for years not a vessel had entered
it; primeval trees grew around it, for miles there was not a habitation;
I have walked the shore alone. Since Mr. Baily left not a person had
visited it; and probably the only thing that keeps it alive, even in memory,
is the theorising of scientific men, or the occasional visit of some Nicaragua
fisherman, who, too lazy to work, seeks his food in the sea. It seemed pre-
posterous to consider it the focus of a great commercial enterprise; to ima-
gine that a city was to rise up out of the forest, the desolate harbour to be
filled with ships, and become a great portal for the thoroughfare of nations.
But the scene was magnificent. The sun was setting, and the high western
headland threw a deep shade over the water. It was, perhaps, the last time
in my life that I should see the Pacific, and in spite of fever and ague ten-
dencies, I bathed once more in the great ocean.
* Mr. Baily, a British officer, was employed by the government of Central America to
make a survey of this canal route, and had completed all except the survey of an unimpor-
tant part of the Rio San Juan (the outlet of the lake into the Caribbean Sea) when the
revolution broke out. This not only put a stop to the survey, but annihilated the prospect
of remuneration for Mr. Baily's arduous services.
PORT SAN JUAN DEL SUR.
45
"At 7 o'clock we started, recrossed the stream, at which we had procured
water, and returned to the first station of Mr. Baily. It was on the river
San Juan, 1 mile from the sea. The river here had sufficient depth of water
for large vessels, and from this point Mr. Baily commenced his survey to the
Lako of Nicaragua."-Incidents of Travel, &c.
When Central American transit route was established to assist the traffic
to California, this lonely harbour assumed a different aspect. It was made
the Pacific steam packet port communicating with the line established from
New York by the way of the Lake of Nicaragua and the isthmus. The
government of the state decreed the erection of a city (Concordia or Pineda)
on the shore of the bay which forms the harbour. In 1852 this city consisted
of a large encampment and a few wooden houses, pompously styled hotels,
but on the abandonment of the transit route it sank to its original solitude.
The shore in this neighbourhood is cut up into an infinity of bays or creeks.
It is very steep-to, as you nearly touch the shore when in 14 or 16 fathoms.
From the great similarity of these bays there is some difficulty in making
out the Port of San Juan del Sur, which is most readily done by the bearings
of the volcanos of Momobacho, Omotepec, Madeira or Orosi, which rise above
the land like so many beacons.
Momobacho is like that of San Salvador in all particulars. Its height, 4265
feet, will not allow it to be seen in every direction, except you are some
miles off shore. But the pointed summit of the cone of Omotepec (in the
Lake of Nicaragua), 5000 feet high, and the well-marked saddle of the vol-
cano of Madeira, can always be seen, in clear weather, overtopping the hills
nearer the sea. In favourable circumstances the volcano of Orosi, 8,665 feet
high, with its two pointed summits, exactly resembling two turrets united by
an immense ridge can be seen.
The prevailing winds, strong from the N.E., shift suddenly to E. or
N.N.W. They rarely allow a ship to reach the port without beating up to
it. To gain all possible advantage, keep to the land, where the sea is
quiet.
4
1
1
The bearings of the volcanoes will point out, at a distance, the position of
San Juan del Sur, and when near it Omotepec will bear N.E. N., or Ma-
deira N.E. E., or Momobacho N. E. These bearings pass over the
summit of a hill of a curved figure, and indented like the teeth of a wheel.
When within about 12 miles of the land, the points of the bay may be dis-
tinguished.
The hill on the North side of the harbour appears like a large greyish
patch on the lands behind it. That on the South is like a round clump of
reddish colour, and on the continuation of the coast are three white marks,
some distance apart; these are three islets frequented by ocean birds. Soon
after the entrance is made out the ships at the anchorage will be seen, and
then some houses on the beach.
46
THE COAST OF NICARAGUA.
Vessels generally anchor outside the harbour in from 9 to 11 fathoms,
keeping over to the South point, as a rocky patch narrows the entrance on
the North side. The bottom is of sand and broken shells, and is not very
good holding ground against the gusts from the N.E., and its great declivity
increases the risk of driving, but at the same time this renders it more safe
during the gales from W. and S.W.
The harbour is shut in by a small bay open to seaward, and as the bottom
is the same as outside, but of indifferent quality, it is scarcely worth while
entering, as communication is easy behind the heads of the harbour. Water
is procured from wells, but it is bad, scarce, and difficult to get. Except a
few fresh provisions at high prices, there is nothing to be procured here.-
De Lapelin.
Port Nacascolo, or Naguiscolo, or Playa Hermosa, lies almost adjoining to,
and to the N.W. of, Port San Juan, which it somewhat resembles, and, like
it, is only the resort of a few natives occasionally. There is no village or
town near it, and it never has been resorted to for general European com-
merce. In its S.E. portion is a sort of canal, excavated for a short distance
to facilitate and shorten the transit of the local trade to the town and lake
of Nicaragua, to which there is a road or pathway through the forest.
What is called from custom the Port of Nacascolo, is a little mud creek in
a small stream thickly bordered with mangroves; there is no village. Old
Chinendega is about 4 leagues from the "port," the road to it a narrow
track through the forest, and is a neat little town for Central America.
Chinendega is rather a pretty town, with from 8,000 to 10,000 inhabitants,
finely situated in a rich undulating plain. It is one of the few towns in
Central America which had increased since the independence, and is only 3
leagues from the Port of Realejo, all the trade of which passes through it.-
R. G. Dunlop, 1844.
Northward of San Juan del Sur the coast trends nearly straight in a due
N.W. direction. As was stated in a former page, the district on the coast
produces dye-wood, or brazil-wood, for which its ports are much frequented.
From information received by Captain Eden, H.M.S. Conway, in 1835, the
coast between Brito and San Andres was then much resorted to by vessels
to load that article. The landing at some of the places is rather difficult;
but the anchorage is perfectly safe, particularly from November till May.
The winds are then constantly from the N.E., though they sometimes blow
very strong; but the sea-breezes during those months never reach the coast.
Brito is the first point of interest North of San Juan. It is 7 miles North
of Nacascolo, and is a small bay open to the S.W. It is the terminus of a
canal proposed by Colonel Orville W. Childs and Mr. Fay, civil engineers,
in 1850-1. The narrow neck of land was well surveyed, and the canal was
to leave the lake of Nicaragua by the River Lajas, opposite the island and
volcano of Omotepec, and would require twelve locks to cross the separation
LAKE OF NICARAGUA.
47
into the Pacific. But the costly works required in the Atlantic at San Juan
de Nicaragua and at Brito, besides all the intermediate engineering diffi-
culties, place the scheme beyond controversy. Brito was pronounced by
competent authority to be in size and shape unworthy of this great ship
navigation.
The coast to the northward of Brito was surveyed by Malaspina, but we
have no particulars of it beyond those given on Banza's chart. But as there
really is no point of maritime interest on it, this is of the less importance.
Mr. G. U. Skinner says that after Brito follows Mogote, an open anchorage ;
next Casares, off the mouth of a river between some reefs. This, by the road,
is 7 leagues from the town of Ximotepe, and which is 12 leagues from
Managua on the lake. Three leagues further along the coast is the road
of Masapa, and 5 leagues further is the anchorage of Masachapa, to the
southward of Point San Andres. Here the Brazil-wood district terminates.
Sir Edward Belcher, in passing along to the North, began to experience
gusts from the Lake of Managua (no high land intervening in its course),
causing him to go under treble-reefed topsails, &c.
The coast trends, generally, to N.W. by W., and the position of these
places is not marked on the charts. They are generally sandy beaches,
separated by cliffs, against which the sea breaks with great violence. In
about lat. 11° 55' the volcano of Momobacho, 4,265 feet high, will be seen
inland when at some distance off shore, as it is not high enough to be seen
over the land when close in. It much resembles the volcano of San Salvador
in appearance, and seems to be of the same outline in all directions. The
land within is very even on the summit, though not very lofty.
Cape Desolada, an appropriate name, lies in about lat. 11° 58', and it seems
almost in mockery that one or two stunted shrubs are allowed to stand on its
summit. Mahogany and cedar grow in the vicinity of the cape, and to the
North of it is Tamarinda.
Tamarinda is only an open beach, where the coast becomes somewhat
lower; beyond it, it rises again, and is called the Costa Tasca, forming a
long sterile ridge. Off the coast the depths appear to be regular, 16 to 17
fathoms, falling rapidly to 25 fathoms a short distance off.
Behind the coast just described are the great lakes so often mentioned,
and of such great interest in the project of connecting the two oceans, a
a question now (1869) probably about to be solved by the intended canal by
the gulf and isthmus of Darien.
The LAKE of NICARAGUA (or Granada) is a fine sheet of water, and,
according to Mr. Baily's account of it, is 90 miles long, its greatest breadth
is 40, and the mean 20 miles. The depth of water is variable, being in some
places close to the shore, and in others half a mile from it, 2 fathoms, in-
creasing gradually to 8, 10, 12, and 15 fathoms, the bottom usually mud,
48
LAKES OF NICARAGUA.
with a depth of 45 fathoms in the centre. The level of the lake is 128 feet
3 inches above that of the Pacific Ocean at low water, spring tides.
This basin is the receptacle of the waters from a tract of country 6 to 10
leagues in breadth on each side of it, thrown in by numerous streams and
rivers, none of them navigable except the River Frio, having its source far
away in the mountains of Costa Rica, which discharges into the lake a large
quantity of water near the spot where the River San Juan flows out of it.
The embouchure is 200 yards wide, and nearly 2 fathoms deep. There are
several islands and groups of islets in different parts of the lake, but none
of them embarrass the navigation, nor is this anywhere incommoded by
shoals or banks, other than the shallow water in shore; and even this is but
very trifling, or rather it is no impediment at all to the craft at present in
use, the practice being to keep the shore close aboard, for the purpose of
choosing convenient stopping places at the close of day, as they scarcely ever
continue their voyage during the night.
The largest islands on the lake are Omotepe, Madera, and Zapatera.
Taken together, the first two of these islands are 12 miles long, and have
gigantic volcanoes on them. Zapatera is almost triangular, and 5 miles
long. Sonate, Solentiname, and Zapote, are smaller, and uninhabited, but
some of them, and the last in particular, are capable of cultivation.
Near the town of Granada there is the best anchorage for ships of the
largest dimensions.
The Lake of Nicaragua is connected with that of Leon by means of the
River Panaloya (or Tipitapa), navigable for the bongos employed in that
country for 12 miles, as far as the place called Pasquiel, where the inha-
bitants go to cut and bring away Brazilian timber. The 4 miles which
remain between that place and the Lake of Leon are not navigable by any
kind of boat, whatever may be its construction, because, beyond Pasquiel,
the channel is obstructed by a vein of rocks, which, when the river is
swollen, are covered with water; but in the dry season, the water sinks SO
low that it can only escape through gradually diminishing fissures in the
rocks. At a distance of a mile beyond this first vein of rocks, we find
another more solid, which, crossing the river at right angles, forms a cascade
of 13 feet descent.
The River Tipitapa, which discharges itself into the Lake of Nicaragua,
is the only outlet for the Lake Leon. The lands bordering this river are
somewhat low, but fertile, having excellent pasturage; as at Chontales,
they are divided into grazing and breeding farms. All this country, covered
with Brazilian timber, is scantily inhabited. The only village is that of
Tipitapa, situated near the above-mentioned waterfall.
The LAKE of LEON or MANAGUA is from 32 to 35 miles long, and 16 miles
at its greatest width. It receives from the circumjacent lands, chiefly from
REALEJO.
49
the eastern coast, a number of small streams. According to Mr. Lawrence,
of H.M.S. Thunderer, it is not so deep as that of Nicaragua.
The Lake of Managua is 28 feet 3 inches above that of Nicaragua; and,
according to M. Garella, the difference between high water in the Pacific and
low water in the Atlantic is 19 feet. In the proposition for making use of
these lakes, it is stated that the ground is perfectly level between the head
and Realejo, one of the best ports on the coast; but the distance is 60
miles, and to Mr. Stephens the difficulties seemed to be insuperable. Sir
Edward Belcher is of opinion that there is no insurmountable obstacle to
connecting the Lake of Managua with the navigable stream, the Estero Real,
falling into the Gulf of Fonseca.
The principal noticeable points on the shores of the Lake of Nicaragua
are the city of Nicaragua and the Omotepeque Volcano, 5,040 feet above the
sea. Mr. Stephens says it reminded him of Mount Etna, rising, like the
pride of Sicily, from the water's edge, a smooth unbroken cone to the above
height.
LEON is the capital of the state of Nicaragua; it was formerly a place of
importance, with a population of 32,000 souls, but has been since greatly
reduced by anarchy and other distracting circumstances. It is situated on a
plain about 40 miles from Realejo, 10 from the sea, and 15 from the Lake of
Managua. It carries on some trade through Realejo. The houses are de-
scribed by Mr. Roberts as yery similar to those of Guatemala, none being
above two stories high.*
The Plain of Leon is bounded on the Pacific side by a low ridge, and on
the right by high mountains, part of the chain of the Cordilleras.
REALEJO is the next place in proceeding north-westward, and is one of
the most important ports on the coast, and has in consequence been more
frequently visited and described. It was, moreover, minutely surveyed by
Sir Edward Belcher, in the Sulphur, in 1838, and was visited by Captain
de Lapelin, in La Brillante, in 1852.
Behind Realejo, in the midst of the plain of Leon is the volcanic chain of
Marabios, which commences at Momotombo, near Lake Managua, and ter-
minates in the North at Coseguina. These two volcanic cones serve as the
*The city of Leon is lauded by Father Gage as the pleasantest place in all America, and
calls it the "Paradise of the Indies." Dampier was here in 1685, and his men marched up
to it to take it, and they set it on fire, but did not procure much plunder. The way to it,
he says, is plain and even, through a champion (champagne) country, of long grassy savan-
nahs, and spots of high woods. About 5 miles from the landing-place there is a sugar
work, 3 miles further there is another, and 2 miles beyond that there is a fine river to ford,
which is not very deep, besides which there is no water all the way till you come to an
Indian town, which is 2 miles before you come to the city, and from thence it is a pleasant
straight sandy way to Leon.-Dampier, vol. i. p. 218.
North Pacific.
E
50
COAST OF NICARAGUA.
extreme landmarks for a line of volcanic peaks which are so numerous as to
be embarrassing. No less than eight are visible at the same moment from
the offing of Realejo. But about El Viejo and Momotombo there can be no
doubt. The latter is known by the whitish smoke enveloping its summit,
and is a steep cone of regular figure, so regular as to resemble one of the
pyramids. Besides this there is the peak of Momotombita, similar in form to
Momotombo, but much lower. This is on Lake Managua, and cannot be
seen from Cardon. In going from S. to N. are the volcanoes of Axusco, Las
Pilas, Telica, and Santa Clara. Telica is the most remarkable of these after
El Viejo or Momotombo. It is in lat. 12° 34′ 46" N. It is a regular and
very steep cone of 2,950 feet.
The port is formed by the three islands of Castanon, separating the Estero
Doña Paula* from the Pacific on the South, Cardon Island in front of it, and
forming two entrances, and the larger island of Aseradores (Sawyers) to the
northward.
Sir Edward Belcher thus concisely describes the harbour:-" Cardon, at
the mouth of the Port of Realejo, is situated in lat. 12° 27′ 55″ N., and long.
87° 9' 30" W. It has two entrances, both of which are safe, under proper
precaution, in all weather. The depth varies from 2 to 7 fathoms, and safe
anchorage extends for several miles; the rise and fall of tide 11 feet; full
and change 3h 6m. Docks or slips, therefore, may easily be constructed, and
timber is easily to be procured of any dimensions; wood, water, and imme-
diate necessaries and luxuries, are plentiful and cheap. The village of
Realejo (the name signifies a barrel or chamber organ) is about 9 miles from
the sea, and its population is about 1,000 or 1,200 souls. The principal
occupation of the working men is on the water, loading and unloading
vessels. It has a custom-house and officers under a collector, comptroller,
and captain of the port.'
Captain de Lapelin says that it is the only place hereabout where coal
can always be procured, but it is also very dear. Wood may be cut on
Aseradores Island, but care is required against snakes. There are also
numerous sharks in the Estero. The anchorage here is very unhealthy and
hot in the rainy season.
The Island of Cardon is of volcanic origin, and the beach contains so much
iron that the sand, which probably is washed up, caused the magnetic needle
* Sir E. Belcher states, in his appendix, that the Estero (or creek) of Dona Paula takes
a course toward the city of Leon, and is navigable to within 3 leagues of that city. It has
been suggested to carry a railroad from Leon to the Lake of Nicaragua. As to any canal
into the Pacific, unless behind the Monotombo, Telica, and Viejo Range into the Estero
Real, Sir Edward Belcher saw little feasibility in the scheme.
REALEJO.
51
to vibrate 21° from zero. On the West end they found a mark, probably
left by the Conway a few years back.*
The present village of Realejo (for the name of town cannot be applied to
such a collection of hovels) contains one main street about 200 yards in
length, with three or four openings leading to the isolated cottages in the
back lanes of huts.†
The inhabitants generally present a most unhealthy appearance, and there
is scarcely a cottage without some diseased or sickly-hued person to be seen.‡
About a mile below the town the ruins of an old but well-built fort are yet
to be traced. Vessels of 100 tons have grounded at the pier of Realejo
custom-house, but above that they would be left dry at low water.
Realejo is the only port after quitting Panamá where British residents can
be found, or supplies conveniently obtained. Water of the finest quality is
to be had from a powerful stream, into which the boat can be brought, and
the casks filled, by baling, alongside of a small wall raised to cause a higher
level. Here the women resort to wash, but, by a due notice to the alcalde,
this is prevented. A guide is necessary on the first visit, after entering the
creek which leads to it, and which should only be entered at half-flood. It
is necessary to pole the remainder, the channel not having sufficient width
for oars.
The water from the well on the Island of Aseradores is good; § but Sir E.
Belcher says, "I have a great objection to water infiltrated through marine
sand and decayed vegetable matter, and consider the chances of sickness one
step removed by obtaining it from a running stream."
The northern channel, or entrance to the port, lying around the N.W. end
of Cardon Island, has a depth of 6 to 10 fathoms. The N.W. point of the
island is called Ponente Point, and is a detached rock. The N.E. point is
* Pearl oysters are found near the South of Cardon; but few pearls, however, are found
in them, and the search has been found very unprofitable.-G. U. Skinner, Esq.
+ This port, if a settlement were established on the Islands of Aseradores, Cardon, or
Castanon, would probably be more frequented; but the position where vessels usually
anchor (within Cardon) to Realejo, is a sad drawback to vessels touching merely for sup-
plies. Rum is also too cheap, and too great a temptation to seamen. Supplies of poultry,
fruit, bullocks, grain, &c., are, however, very reasonable, and of very superior quality;
turkeys are said to attain an incredible weight; they still, however, justly maintain a very
high reputation.-Sir Edward Belcher, 1838.
"This is a very sickly place, and I believe hath need enough of an hospital; for it is
seated so nigh the creeks and swamps that it is never free from a noisome smell. The land
about it is a strong yellow clay, yet where the town stands seems to be sand."—Dampier,
vol. i. p. 221.
§ “We established our tide-gauge on the Island of Aseradores, although directly open
to seaward through Barra Falsa, and we were fortunate to find a good well of water close
to the beach."-Sir E. Belcher, vol. i. p. 28.
E 2
52
COAST OF NICARAGUA.
Cardon Head, and is 30 feet high. The channel passes round close against
this point, and all over towards the South end of Aseradores Island the water
is very shallow, and a large patch, the Sawyer Bank, is nearly awash.
A reef extends from the West point of Cardon to two cables' lengths, and
a rock of 11 feet water was discovered by Commander Paynter, R.N., in
H.M.S. Gorgon, in 1849, lying to the northward of the island. From it
Icacos .Point, the South end of Aseradores Island, bore E. by N., Cardon
Head, E. S., and Point Ponente, the N.W. point of Cardon S. by
W. W.
The CARDON CHANNEL, that North of the island is the best, perhaps the
only one advisable, since the re-examination of the entrance in 1865.
The mark given for taking this channel, called the Cardon Channel, is—
run toward the entrance, with Cardon Head the N.E. point of Cardon, and
Icacos Point the South point of Aseradores touching, when they will bear
East (by compass), and when at more than a cable's length from Point
Ponente stand off N.E. by N. until Castañon Bluff opens out from Cardon
Head, and then haul close round Cardon Head, as the current sets direct on
Sawyer Bank.
Cardon Island is three-quarters of a mile in length, N.W. and S.E. Shoal
water extends some distance off its seaward face. Its southern point is Cape
Austro, surrounded by a shoal. S.S.E. of this is Castanon Bluff, the western
point of Castañon Island. These two points are a quarter of a mile apart,
and the channel between, which has a depth of 15 feet, is the Barra
Falsa.
The mark for entering it is a vigia on a hill inland, or about 5 miles within
the entrance, kept between the two points (Cape Austro and Castanon Bluff),
and bearing about N.N.E. This mark kept on leads into the port, but as
the depth had decreased from 5 or 6 fathoms in 1838 to 2 fathoms in 1865,
it should not be attempted without local and recent knowledge.
The town of Realejo is up the channel which runs at the back of Asera-
dores Island, which is 8 or 9 feet deep.
It is high water at Realejo, on full and change, at 3h 6m; springs rise 11
feet.
The following are the remarks made by Mr. P. C. Allan, R.N., which
will prove very serviceable :-"Vessels bound to Realejo from the southward
should (passing about 20 miles to the eastward of Isle Cocos) steer to make
the land to the eastward of the port during the period between November
and May, as the winds prevail from the N.E., and sometimes blow with
great violence out of the Gulf of Papagayo, causing a current to set along
shore to the N.W.
'A range of mountains in the interior may be seen at the distance of 60
miles; the most remarkable of them is the Volcan de Viejo, the highest part
of which, bearing N.E. by N., is the leading mark to the anchorage. The
REALEJO.
53
shore, for some distance on each side of the entrance, is low and woody.
Cardon Island, which is on the right side of the entrance, is rather higher,
and its western end is a brown rocky cliff. The wooden tower, or look-out
house, which is situated 5 or 6 miles inland, may be seen rising above the
trees.
"In coming from the southward, and running along the land, ships must
avoid a rocky reef, which lies about 7 miles E.S.E. of the anchorage off
Realejo, on which H.M.S. Conway struck. This reef was examined by the
boats of that ship.
'The two rocks that are above water (the one 8, and the other 5 ft. high)
are distant from the beach rather more than three-quarters of a mile. The
ground between these rocks, and 11 mile to seaward of them, and probably
more, is very uneven. The rock on which the Conway struck lies S.S.W. 1
W. three-eighths of a mile from the N.W. or highest of the two rocks. In
passing this reef give the rocks above water a berth of 2 miles:
"The flood tide comes from the N.W. The tides are irregular; one day
during our stay here it was low water 16 hours."
Mr. E. P. Brumell also says:-"In steering for Port Realejo from the
southward, after passing the parallel of Port Culebra, keep the land well
aboard (during the papagayos) as there is generally a strong offset. The
land is low in front, without anything to make it remarkable at 8 or 10
miles off; however, there are most excellent marks inland, in the event of
not getting observations. A very high peak inland, rising evenly and gra-
dually to a fine point, bearing E.N.E., will place you to the southward of
the port, and another high mountain, El Viejo, bearing N.E. 1 N. by com-
pass, will place you right off the port. This mountain is very remarkable,
there being none other bearing the least resemblance to it, and in fact none
in the immediate vicinity."
Captain Worth, of H.M.S. Calypso, visited Realejo in 1847, and the fol-
lowing are the remarks made from observation during his stay:
"The breeze of Papagayo is always strong, and is felt 40 or 50 miles off
shore, strongest nearest the land. Coming from Puntas Arenas to Realejo,
although this breeze does not usually allow a ship to lay up for it at first, it
will, as you proceed northward, draw more off shore, and lead directly up
for the El Viejo mountain, the leading mark for Realejo.
El Viejo is an extinct volcano, and a remarkable landmark, being the
westernmost of a number of conical mountains; one of which, Momotombo,
is an active volcano, and almost constantly smoking, and having the ap-
pearance of a slice cut off its top, slanting to the eastward. Westward of
El Viejo the land is low, with a sandy beach, thickly covered with wood ;
with very clear weather, and approaching El Viejo from the southward, you
will see the volcano of San Miguel (extinct), making like a round island to
the westward.
54
COAST OF NICARAGUA.
"Having made out El Viejo, a N.E. by N. course leads directly up to the
anchorage of the entrance of Realejo Harbour; 7 or 8 miles from the beach
is 19 fathoms, shallowing quickly, but regularly, to 12 fathoms, at about 4
or 5 miles from the shore. The land to the westward is a continuous low
beach, wooded close down; carrying the eye along this beach to the east-
ward will be observed a break, the land protruding further into the sea; the
beach white, and the surf heavier, having detached trees upon it, with low
abrupt cliffs, also an opening, which is the South entrance into Realejo.
The island to the westward of this opening (Castañon Island) has few trees
upon it, and is abrupt at the West end; to the westward of it is Cardon
Island, which has many detached trees upon its West end, of larger size
than upon the apparent main land (Aseradores, or Sawyer's Island), and is
higher and more abrupt at this end than Castañon; there is also a large
green tree jutting out from it to the westward, and a higher rock close to it,
which can be seen as soon as the island itself.
"The face of Cardon Island is of a reddish-brown colour, occasioned by
burning the bamboo, which grows thickly upon it. Having made out Car-
don Island, the best anchorage is with its N.W. end bearing East 1 miles
off El Viejo, N.E. by N., in 6 and 7 fathoms sand and mud.
"No ship should anchor to the northward of the West end of Cardon
bearing E. by S., as the soundings shoal very quickly from 6 to 5 and 4
fathoms, the rise being about 11 feet, and always a swell, sometimes very
heavy, the ship rolling deeply; nor is the bottom so good when nearer the
beach.
"At the commencement of the dry season, the land-winds frequently last
for several days together, blowing very fresh and preventing ships from
entering the harbour; but as the season advances, the land and sea-breezes
become more regular, but never strictly so. Sir E. Belcher's plan of Realejo
is very correct, though there did not appear to me quite so much water near
the East end of the North side of Cardon as laid down on it. The entrance
is narrow, making it necessary to pass close to the tree on the West end of
Cardon Island. A pilot takes vessels in and out, but requires to be watched,
as he is not a sailor, and is old and incapable. When leaving the harbour,
you should have a commanding land-wind, as the ebb sets directly across the
South entrance, and very strong.
"The Calypso was awkwardly situated; the land-winds failing us, we
drifted down towards Cardon Island, and were obliged to anchor and warp
against the tide into deeper water; the anchor was let go in 32 fathoms, but
it soon shoaled to less than 3 fathoms.
The proper anchorage, which is nearer the Island of Aseradores than the
opposite shore, is confined; the bottom soft mud: consequently, should a
vessel take the ground, no damage would occur. A large frigate would find
considerable difficulty in swinging here.
MANZANA ISLAND.
55
"Realejo is healthy during the dry season (November to April), but sub-
ject to fever and ague during the rainy season, which commences in May.
Water can be had, but not very good, and is very dear; the natives fill the
casks out of the river at low water, a little above Realejo. Wood is cheap,
4 dollars per thousand pieces; fresh beef is cheap, purchased by the bullock;
the stock cheap and very good; fowls, 1 real; sucking pigs, 2 reals;
ducks, 3 reals; lard, 1 real per pound; rice, 2 dollars a quintal; and vege-
tables scarce.
"This is the best place for stock on the whole coast. Washing is also
comparatively very cheap-1 dollar the dozen. Fire-wood may be cut in
any quantity, and good."
Dampier, who was on this coast in September, 1685, says :-"We had
very bad weather as we sailed along this coast; seldom a day passed but we
had one or two violent tornadoes, and with them very frightful flashes of
lightning and claps of thunder. I never did meet with the like before nor
since. These tornadoes commonly come out of the N.E. The wind did not
last long, but blew very fierce for the time. When the tornadoes were over
we had the wind at West, sometimes at W.S.W. and S.W., and sometimes
to the North and West, as far as N.W."
Manzana Island, or False Cardon, is at the N.W. end of Aseradores Island,
which does not appear to be an island as you sail past it in 11 fathoms.
Manzana is only about 18 feet high, covered with trees, whose level tops
can be seen at 8 miles off, and the island has a white beach. It is nearly
joined to Aseradores Island at the South end by a shallow channel. Several
wrecks have occurred from mistaking this island for the true Cardon, but
this error should not occur if the mountains are visible. El Viejo bears
E.N.E. from Manzana and N.E. by N. from the latter. Should El Viejo be
hidden by clouds, which sometimes occurs, the regular cone of the Telica.
volcano to the South of it, which is rarely obscured, will equally serve, for
it bears East from Manzana and E.N.E. from Cardon.
The coast pursues a straight line to the Mesa de Roldan (Roland's or the
Round Table), the seaward extremity of a small chain of hills, which is
easily known by its level summit, and by the large reddish patches on its
slopes, where they are not covered by trees. Between Cardon and this the
bottom is very even, with a depth of 11 or 12 fathoms at 6 miles from the
beach.
Speck Reef, of which we have no particulars beyond the chart, is marked
at about 7 miles from False Cardon, and as stretching 2 miles from shore,
with 15 feet on its outer edge. This, of course, must be considered in sail-
ing north-westward.
Northward of the Mesa de Roldan the coast is a sandy beach, so low that
it cannot be seen from the deck when in 4 or 5 fathoms. It curves around
་
56
COAST OF NICARAGUA
4
to the N.W., and then it rises into perpendicular cliffs, which continue to
the famous and terrible volcano of Coseguina, at the entrance of the Gulf of
Fonseca. In sailing between Realejo and Fonseca there is no danger, if
you do not come into less than 5 or 6 fathoms. Near to the Coseguina it
may be approached within a mile, but with the flood tide it is better to keep
further off, on account of the inset into the Estero Real.
The GULF of FONSECA, or Conchagua, is about 40 miles N.W. of
Realejo. It is an extensive and fine bay in the Pacific, almost unrivalled
for its extent, its beauty, or its security. Though generally known by the
name of the Gulf of Fonseca, it is also known by the names of Conchagua,
of San Carlos, of Amapala, of Coseguina, and of Amatapa. Its shores are
divided among the States of Nicaragua, Honduras, and San Salvador; its
beautiful volcanic islands belong only to the two latter. Honduras possesses
Amapala or Tigre, Sacate-grande or Velasquez and Disposicion, while
Conchaguita, Manguiera, Martin Perez, and Punta-Sacate belong to San
Salvador.
merce.
Each of the States claiming part of its shores have opened a port to con-
That of San Carlos de la Union, belonging to San Salvador is the
most important, not on its own account, but because of its proximity to the
city of San Miguel, which at the time of its fairs (in February and Novem-
ber) is the most commercial place in Central America.
The port for Honduras, called San Lorenzo, is on the river Nacaome; it
will only receive vessels of very light draught, and is seldom visited except
by bongos. But the Honduras Government, at the instance of M. Dardano,
the Sardinian Consul, has declared the anchorage at Amapala on Tigre
Island to be a free port, with the hope of attracting hither, from its central
position and capabilities, an entrepot of the commerce of the gulf, and per-
haps hereafter of that of the whole of Central America.
Nicaragua has its port of entry on the left bank of the Estero Real to the
S.W. It is merely a post occupied by a few soldiers at Playa Grande. It
is rarely visited, and quite unimportant.
The inter-oceanic railway across the State of Honduras was proposed to
terminate on the northern shore of the gulf. It starts from Puerto Caballos
or Cortez, in the Bay of Honduras to the northward, running nearly due
South to Punta Remolina on Sacate Grande, or some other point in the
Gulf of Fonseca. The total length between the anchorage in each port
would be 148 geographical miles. It was surveyed in 1858 by Colonel
Trautwine, and verified by Colonel Stanton, R.E. It was proposed also
to extend the southern terminus to Tigre Island by a pile bridge 1 mile
long. Either this or the main land fronting the Bay of Chismuyo, or else the
Island of Garova or La Union might be a terminus.
THE GULF OF FONSECA.
57
Mr. E. G. Squier says: The entrance to the bay, from the sea, is about
19 miles wide between the great yolcanoes of Conchagua (5,720 feet in
height) and Coseguina (3,000 feet in height), which stand like giant warders
upon either hand, and constitute unmistakeable landmarks for the mariner.
On a line across this entrance, and about equi-distant from each other, lie
the two considerable islands of Conchaguita and Manguera, and a collection
of high rocks, called los Farallones, which, while they serve to protect the
bay from the swell of the sea, divide the entrance into four distinct channels,
each of sufficient depth of water to admit the passage of the largest vessels.
These islands are high, Conchaguita being not less than 500, and Man-
guera about 600 feet in height. They were formerly inhabited by Indians,
who withdrew to the main land to avoid the oppressions of the freebooters
during the period of their ascendancy in the South Sea. Both of these
islands belong to San Salvador.
The principal islands in the Bay of Fonseca are Sacate-Grande, or Ve-
lasquez, Tigre, Gueguensi, and Esposescion, belonging to Honduras; and
Punta Sacate, Martin-Perez, Conchaguita, and Manguera, belonging to San
Salvador.
Velasquez, or Sacate-grande, is considerably the largest, and in common
with the others, is of volcanic origin. It is 5 miles long, by about 4 in breadth.
The southern half is elevated, rising in a number of peaks to the height of
2,200 feet. These elevations slope off gently to the northward, and subside
finally in level alluvial grounds of exceeding fertility. These, as well as the
slopes descending toward them, are densely wooded with cedar, mahogany,
willowisti, and other valuable trees. The peaks themselves, as well as their
more abrupt southern slopes, are covered with grass called by the Indians
sacate, whence this island derives its name. These grassy slopes afford pas-
turage for great numbers of cattle, and it is said that as many as 4,000 have
been pastured upon the island at a single time. For most of the year, and
except in very dry seasons, there are running streams of water on the northern
slopes of the island. Abundance of water, however, may be obtained hy
digging through the upper lava crusts, beneath which, as is frequently the
case in volcanic countries, flow constant streams. The grassy peaks of Sa-
cate Grande, as well as of the other islands, afford a source of ever-varying
and eternal beauty. With the commencement of the rainy season, they are
clothed with the delicate translucent green of the springing grass, which
deepens as the season advances, both in colour and thickness, until all the
asperities of the ground are matted over with an emerald robe of luxuriance.
Then, when the rains cease, and the droughts commence, the grass becomes
sere, and finally of a brilliant yellow; and the islands appear as if swathed
in a mantle of golden grain, which Ceres herself might envy. Then comes
the torch of the vaquéro, which clears the ground for the future fresh and
58
COAST OF NICARAGUA.
tender blade, but leaves it browned and purpled, in sober contrast with its
previous gayer garniture of gold and green.
The island of Gueguensi may be regarded as a dependancy of Sacate-
Grande, from which it is separated only by a narrow and shallow strait. It
has a single eminence of great beauty and regularity. The rest of the island
is level, chiefly savanna, fertile, and well adapted to the cultivation of rice,
cotton, and sugar. It is fringed by a narrow belt of mangroves.
The Island of Tigre, from its position, is the most important island of the
bay. It is about 10 miles in circumference, rising in the form of a perfect
cone, to the height of 2,590 feet. The slope from the water, for some dis-
tance inward, is very gentle, and admits of cultivation. Upon the southern
and eastern shores, the lava forms black, rocky barriers to the waves, vary-
ing in height from 10 to 80 feet; but upon the northward and eastward there
are a number of "playas," or coves, with smooth sandy beaches. It is
facing one of the most considerable of these that the port of Amapala is
situated. The water in front is deep, with clear anchorage, where vessels of
ordinary size may lay within a cable's length of the shore,
Coseguina Point is the S.E. point of Fonseca Bay, upon which stands
the celebrated volcano of Coseguina. It is 3,800 feet high, and is in lat.
12° 58′ N., long. 87° 37′ W. It was anciently called Quisiguina, and stands
as before stated, on the S.E. point of the entrance. The verge of the crater
which is half a mile in diameter, is elevated about 3,800 feet above the mean
level; thence the interior walls fall perpendicularly to a depth of 200 feet,
when the bottom of the crater becomes flattish, with a small transparent
lake in its centre. One of the most remarkable volcanic eruptions on record
occurred from it. It commenced on the 20th of January, 1835, and its first
evidence was, as seen at 60 miles' distance, an immense column of smoke
and flame emitted from the crater. At 9 a.m. a very heavy shock of an
earthquake was felt; the night following five shocks; and during the 21st
several shocks, accompanied with the noise resembling distant thunder,
or "retumbo,"
retumbo," as the Spaniards call it. On the 22nd the ground was
covered with fire, ashes, or sand, darkness and the roar of the volcano pre-
vailing. On the 23rd, the fall of ashes and noise increased till it became
darker than the darkest night, and continued so till 3 p.m., when it cleared
a little; everything covered thickly with the volcanic dust, the noise, and
odour of sulphur, being overpowering. Its devastating effects were conti-
nued for many weeks after.
In proof of its tremendous effects, the eruption shook all the windows and
doors in the city of Guatemala, which is between 240 and 250 statute miles
distant, most forcibly. This was occasioned, not by the earthquake, but by
the explosions transmitted through the air; this was on January 23rd,
1835. But the distance to which the thunder of the volcano was heard,
and the dust felt, was very much greater than this. According to the
PORT LA UNION.
59
official account, these were both felt and heard at Ciudad Real de Chia-
pas, a distance of 420 geographic miles. It occasioned very great alarm
at Tonala and other parts in Soconusco, 450 miles to the N.W.; and on
the coast about Merida, in Yucatan, 800 miles off. Those to the south-
ward were not slight evidences, but the air was darkened, and the noises.
terrific, and the sulphureous vapours most suffocating. The flocks pe-
rished from the pastures being destroyed by the dust, and great sickness
ensued among all from the water becoming tainted from the same cause.
In the "Jamaica Watchman" (January 29, 1835), too, it is announced
that all the ships about that island were covered with the fine volcanic dust,
which continued to fall for some days, covering everything.
G. U. Skinner, Esq., left the city of Guatemala and Istapa in the middle
of March, passing large banks of floating pumice during the passage to
Conchagua. When at many leagues' distance, they were almost suffocated
by the sulphureous vapour and the volcanic dust, which obscured the sky,
and settled on everything, causing most violent burning pains in the eyes.
PORT LA UNION is an inner harbour or bay of the Gulf of Fonseca; it
lies on the North side, around Chiriquin or Chicarene Point, extending 8 or
9 miles inland, but the upper and N.E. sides are shallow and uncovered at
low water. This contracts the limits of the port within much smaller dimen-
sions. On these flats oysters are very abundant.
SAN CARLOS, better known by the name of CONCHAGUA, is situated on the
South side of the port. The site is badly chosen, as the difficulty in landing
is at all times great, and at low water nearly impossible; during strong
northerly winds the communication is frequently cut off for days, independent
of unsafe holding ground for shipping. Near Chiriquin this might have
been entirely avoided. The port is entirely landlocked; in fact, a complete
inland sea.
The actual town or village of Conchagua, from which this port derives its
name, is situated about 3 miles up the Amapala Mountain, or extinct volcano,
immediately over San Carlos.
If proceeding to La Union, and having made out the entrance and the
islands, steer direct for the island Conchaguita, which may be ranged close-
to, so as to avoid the shoal water near the mouth of the San Miguel River,
and over which the flood runs strongly. If obliged to beat in, there will be
no difficulty in doing so, guided by Sir Edward Belcher's plan, or without it
by the lead. You should not come into less than 6 or 7 fathoms near the
hill forming the second point, on the port hand, in entering, called Point
Amapata, to the North of which is the mouth of the San Miguel, and which
ought to be kept at a mile and a half distant. Before arriving abreast of the
North point of Conchaguita, steer rather within Point Chicarene (or Chiri-
quin), so as to range the shore formed by the slopes of the Amatapa volcano.
The depth is greater than nearer the islands, and you will have the advan-
60
COAST OF NICARAGUA.
tage of the flood stream, which separates into two branches to the North of
Conchaguita, one following the channel, the other diverging to the N.E.
A Sardinian vessel was driven on to the Negritos from want of knowing
this fact.
Having doubled Point Chiriquin nearly in mid-channel, an extensive bay
opens, the North point of which is filled with mud banks, which uncover at
low water. A large ship should anchor before having the North point of
Punta Sacate bearing East, in 5 to 6 fathoms, mooring to the flood and
ebb. Vessels of less draught may get nearer to the village, which is 4 miles
from the above anchorage, by keeping to the shore on the port hand, after
rounding Point Chiriquin, and anchor at a mile or 1 mile N.E. of the vil
lage in 3 to 5 fathoms, bottom of mud, and excellent holding ground,
allowing room to drive in case of the North winds, which sometimes blow
with great force. Vessels of 400 tons usually anchor at 2 miles S.E. of the
village.
If it is not intended to stay long here, or only to procure water or provi-
sions, you may stay in the channel between Point Amatapa and the islands.
Conchaguita and Punta Sacate, a little to the South of the watering place of
Chiriquin, keeping as much as possible within the direction of the point, to
avoid the strength of the current, and the cross sea, occasioned by the
sea breeze opposing the ebb tide. You should moor N. and S.
The tides are regular, their velocity rarely attaining to 2 knots, except
between Point Chiriquin and the Negritos. It is high water, full and
change, at 3h 15"; range at springs 12 feet 2 inches; at neaps 8 feet 10
inches.
The mud bank in front of the landing place dries out more than a cable's
length at low water; it is better then to use the native canoes to pass through
this liquid mud. In 1852 they were lengthening a jetty to avoid this incon-
venience.
If proceeding to Amapala (or Tigre Island) steer for the steep sided channel,
between Manguiera and Conchaguita, closing in with the N.W. point of the
first of these islands to within 3 or 4 cables' lengths, so as to bring the second
hummock of the summit of Tigre Island, or rather the part where the "sa-
cate"* joins the trees, to bear N.E. E., the depth being from 11 to 13 fa-
thoms. As soon as that bearing comes on, steer for it, and the lead will show
a bank of sand and mud, the depth on which gradually decreases from 13 to
*Sacate is the term applied to those rare spaces, bare of trees, but covered with a species
of long grass, called sacate, which, during the dry season, is of the colour of the ripe corn
fields of Europe. This grass is burned just before the rainy season commences, and then
has a red and sterile appearance. Soon after the first rains; it assumes a pale green, which
looks like a plantation of sugar-canes.
THE ESTERO REAL.
61
4 or 4 fathoms, which is the shoalest part of the channel. As soon as Cara-
colito, a low islet, covered with bushes and scattered trees, bears N.N.E.,
and clears well from Tigre Island, though it is connected with it at low
water, steer N.N.E. E. towards a small cabin, or rancho, on the sandy
beach to the right of Caracolito, approaching it till it bears N. by E., and
then pass around it at the distance of 2 cables' lengths of the white house,
and then the harbour will come in view, when you may anchor at 4 cables'
lengths off the sandy beach, the flagstaff bearing S. 32° E., or a white house
with three doorways to S. 39° E., being then in 8 fathoms, green mud, and of
excellent quality for holding.
Water is procured from the wells, which are private property; that belong-
ing to Mr. Dardano is the best and most abundant.
The Estero Real, in the southern part of the gulf, appears to be of con-
siderable importance, as Sir E. Belcher took the Starling up it for 30 miles
from its mouth, and might easily have gone further, but the prevailing strong
winds rendered it too toilsome a journey at this period; he considered that it
might be ascended much higher-the natives say 60 miles-by vessels draw-
ing 10 feet, but steamers would be absolutely necessary to tow against the
prevalent breezes.
According to Sir Edward Belcher's opinion, this unquestionably is the most
advantageous line for a canal; for, by its approaching thus the Lake of Ma-
nagua, the entire lake communication might readily be effected.*
Mr. G. U. Skinner says that there is considerable traffic carried on by means
of bongoes, or large canoes, and that the distance from the embarcadera to
the Conchagua is 65 miles.
Captain Worth says:-Leaving Realejo for Conchagua, with the land-
wind, it is advisable to steer obliquely off shore to meet the sea-breeze, which
takes a ship to Coseguina Point, on the East side of the Gulf of Conchagua.
* The Sirano, Siriano, or San Miguel River, has been one of the sites thought of for
forming the communication between the two oceans, to be connected with the Bay of
Honduras, through the transverse valley, the Llanura de Comayagua, watered on the
Atlantic side by the Jagua, and on the Pacific by the Sirano, as before mentioned,
and both of which are navigable, but how far, or how long, our knowledge will not
determine. This scheme, therefore, is very desultory.-L' Isthme de Panama, par M. Che-
vallier, p. 72.
The town of San Miguel is situated on a plain at the base of the volcano, which is 7,024
feet high, and suddenly springs on this side to its apex, and is surrounded on its other sides
by ranges of 500 to 600 feet above its level, entirely excluding it from any prospect beyond
their outlines. There is nothing in the city itself which calls for remark, and its conse-
quence arises principally from the fairs held here for the purpose of transacting the indigo
trade. The fair at the period of Sir Edward Belcher's visit is the principal (November 23,
1838), and had a large quantity of cattle, horses, sheep, &c.
62
COAST OF NICARAGUA.
Sailing in the morning, you will generally reach this point late in the even-
ing, or the next day after noon.
The Gulf of Conchagua will be well understood by reference to Sir E.
Belcher's plan; there appears to be no dangers. The Calypso worked in and
out twice, tacking at less than 2 cables' lengths from the shore and islands.*
The tides are very strong: full 2 knots at full and change, which takes place
at 3 p.m.
About the change of the moon the land-wind blows strongly
during the night and a greater part of the day; you can, however, see it
coming by the foam on the water.
As in coming from Realejo you generally arrive here in the evening, it
is advisable to anchor when the land wind comes off; for, should you be
driven off the coast, it will take all the next day to reach the islands, and
to arrive at the proper anchorage, the sea breeze being weak after such.
strong land winds.
In the Calypso, on our first going to Conchagua, the land wind came down.
with such force that the gulf appeared to break across; and we anchored in
18 fathoms, and worked up the next day to Chiquirin Bay.
This gulf contains the best and most easily obtained water on the coast; it
is a stream running down the mountains, clear and sweet, into the bay called
La Playeta de Chiquirin, which is just to the southward of the Chiquirin Point
You can anchor close in. The best way to water is by rafting, the water in
the bay being quite smooth, you can pull well to windward, and alongside
to the eddy, and then across the tides to the ship. We filled 26 times a day,
although badly off for boats, having only a 28-foot pinnace. There is a surf
on this beach, sometimes heavy, but seldom enough to prevent landing.
Merchant vessels anchor so close, as to be able to hand their casks off with
long lines. When we first anchored in this point we tried, through ignorance,
to water in the Playa de Chicarene, but we found the surf so heavy, the
water so bad, and such great difficulty from the tides, that we could not get
more than 18 tons a day, and that after great labour to the men, and much
damage to the casks and boats.
Wood is not so cheap here as at Realejo; beef about the same price, also
washing; but stock is dearer, and difficult to get in any quantity; turtle is
plentiful, about 2 reals for one weighing 50 lb. Sir Edward Belcher's plan
clearly shows the only dangers in entering Port La Union; they are visible
* In entering the Conchagua from the westward, bring the Island of Tigre to bear ex-
actly between the Islands of Conchaguita and Manguera, to avoid the rocks off Point Can-
dadillo. Tigre is a high conical hill. It is thus quite safe entering to an anchorage,
even at night, if this island be seen, which is seldom not the case at all seasons.-G. U.
Skinner, Esq.
SAN SALVADOR,
63
at low water, the only difficulty is the very great strength of tide; it is quite
a sluice round Chicarene Point,
4. SAN SALVADOR.
San Salvador is the smallest of the Central American Republics, but re-
latively to its extent, it is the most densely populated, and has the most in-
dustry and commerce. It extends from the North side of the Gulf of Fon-
seca to the Rio Paza or Pazaca, about 160 miles to the westward, which
separates it from the Republic of Guatemala. It has a population, according
to Mr. Squier, of 294,000. It is an agricultural state, and the principal pro-
ducts are indigo, the chief article, sugar and maize. Indigo, produced from
an indigenous plant, the jiquilite, is easily raised and manufactured. The
coast presents, generally, a belt of low, rich alluvial land, varying in width
from 10 to 20 miles. Behind this, and presenting an abrupt face seaward,
is a range of mountains, or rather a broad plateau, having an average eleva-
tion of about 2,000 feet. Along this plateau there are not less than eleven.
great volcanoes, running in nearly a direct line from S.E. to N.W., coincident
with the great line of volcanic action, which is traceable from Mexico to
Chile. Its principal stream is the Lempa, which would be navigable for
small steamers for probably 100 miles, but it is hopelessly barred from sea-
ward. The chief ports, if such they can be called, with the exception of the
fine harbour of La Union, are Acagutla and Libertad, mere open roadsteads,
only deriving their existence and importance from their proximity to the re-
spective cities of San Salvador and Sonsonate. Another place, Concordia, has
been formed to the westward as a port to the town of San Vicente.
We have no proper survey of the coast; but as it has only to be known to
be avoided, this want is of the less importance. The "ports," or an-
chorages, are only of interest.
In general, the inhabitants of Salvador have more intelligence and industry
than those of the previously described States of Central America. Their
government is more liberal, and the rights of person and property are more
respected, and the privileges extended to foreigners are greater than those
above mentioned, under a treaty negociated by Mr. Squier, United States
Minister to Salvador, in 1850.
The commerce of San Salvador is chiefly carried on through means of
fairs established by the government in the districts best suited for the exhi-
bition of the products of the State. The principal fairs are held at Chalalte-
nango, San Vincente, and San Miguel. The two former take place on the
1st of November in each year; the latter, called "Fair of La Paz," on the
21st of the same month. It lasts about two weeks, and is far the most im-
portant of any held in the country. It attracts buyers and sellers, not only
from all parts of Central America, but from nearly every part of the Pacific
64
COAST OF SAN SALVADOR.
coast, as well as from England, Germany, France, and the United States.
About the only product given for the goods sent in by foreigners is the staple
of the state, indigo. A second fair, called "Ceniza," takes place in San
Miguel about the beginning of February. To both of these fairs large num-
bers of cattle are brought from Honduras and Nicaragua.
The Coast, as delineated on the chart, is taken from the survey of Don
Alexandro Malaspina, in 1794, as drawn up subsequently for the Spanish
Government by Don Felipe Bauza, F.R.S. In the introduction to the next.
chapter we have noticed the unfortunate voyage of this commander, and
have there stated the reasons why we have not a more complete descrip-
tion of the tract he explored.
From Candadillo Point, the western limit of the Gulf of Fonseca, the coast
is low and sandy for some distance, till we arrive at a part where it becomes
higher, and in some places cliffy, for about 10 miles to where San Miguel
volcano bears N. 18° E., when it becomes again low and sandy to Jiquilisco
and Libertad. These low beaches, particularly at sun rise and sunset, occa-
sion such a strong mirage, that it appears as if the surf breaks much far-
ther off than it does in reality. The soundings off this shore are regular, and
increase gradually toward the offing, contrary to the opinion that the bottom
is very uneven and dangerous to navigate by the lead; but it may be affirmed
that a vessel will be in safety anywhere between Fonseca and Point Reme-
dios, so long as she is in more than 8 or 10 fathoms. A more general re-
mark may also be made, that on the whole coast of Central America, the lead
will be a good guide, and that the depth above stated is generally safe, ex-
cept in some places, where it would be too near the land, and 13 to 18 fathoms
is a better depth to maintain.
PORT JIQUILISCO, (or Giquilisco), or del Triunfo de los Libres, according
to Colonel Don Juan Galindo (an Englishman in the service of the republic),
is about 24 miles beyond Candadillo, the N.W. entrance point of Con-
chagua.
In 1798, the Royal Consulate of Guatemala ordered Don Vincente Ro-
driguez del Camino to survey it. He states that it was then named the Bay
of San Salvador de Jiquilisco (a species of plant, the indigofera disperma), an-
ciently called the Bay of Fonseca. May this account for the double name
applied to Conchagua to the S.E.? The name given to it by Colonel
Galindo evidently has reference to one of those "triumphs," so common and
so ephemeral in these distracted countries. We have therefore preferred the
old name.
According to the old plan of Don V. del Camino, the anchorage is good and
well sheltered. Like Tehuantepec, the coast of the main land appears to be
fronted by a long narrow island, perhaps formed by the tremendous surf
raised by the prevalent winds.
THE RIVER LEMPA, OR LAMPA.
65
The port, or rather the creek or "Estero" of Jiquilisco, has not the same
appearance as the rivers, &c., to the West; instead of mangroves, the shore is
marked by bushes of a pale green or muddy colour, or else without leaves.
The volcano of San Miguel, kept on the bearing of N. 27° E., will lead on
to the horse-shoe breakers. At a mile and a half off the water is much dis-
coloured, but the depth is 7 and 83 fathoms, fine grey sand, which would
not hold well; a better anchorage would be 1½ mile West of the bar, where
there is an adhesive mud, and black sandy bottom. We were not fortunate
enough to find the channel across the bar, described by the officers of Le
Génie, as stated below.
The bar of Jiquilisco forms a sort of horse-shoe, which must be crossed to
enter the estero. The sea frequently breaks heavily on it, but there are
places where it does not do so, and where it may easily be attempted in
boats. There is 142 feet least water on one part, and the tide rises 82 feet;
it is therefore possible even for ships of considerable burden to clear this line
of breakers, which is but narrow, and find plenty of water within, except on
three or four small shoals, which are not difficult to avoid. One feature of
the place, which will point out the channel, is that the ebb tide from the
estero forms a line of eddies or ripplings in which there is always deep water,
and which crosses the banks in the deepest part. This current turns with the
tide, and sometimes runs at the rate of 3 miles an hour, and with the flood
tide makes a very heavy sea on the bar, except at the time of high water.
(Captain Jamin, of the brig Le Génie). At the entrance of the estero is
Pajaros Island, which separates it into two channels, in which it is said there
is a depth of 8 fathoms.
The RIVER LEMPA, or LAMPA, runs within a league of one of the
arms of the estero of Jiquilisco, and the inhabitants state that another
branch joins the River San Miguel, which falls into the Gulf of Fonseca.
In passing along the coast of this river the navigator should be very cau-
tious of his distance, for it is stated that a long bar or flat runs off, as
indeed might be anticipated, from the magnitude and character of the river.
This flat, which reaches the greater part of a mile, is called the Barra del Es-
piritu Santo, and on it the Lucretia, a brig drawing 12 feet, was wrecked,
February 18, 1847. This was in consequence of the ignorance of the ex-
istence of such a projection.
In Father Gage's work, before quoted, he mentions the Lempa :-"This
river is privileged in this manner, that if a man commit any heinous crime,
or murther, on this side of Guatemala and San Salvador, or on the other side
of St. Miguel or Nicaragua, if he can flie to get over this river, he is free as
long as he liveth on the other side, and no justice on that side whither he is
escaped, can question or trouble him for the murther committed. So likewise
for debts, he cannot be arrested."
Among the many undeveloped resources of San Salvador, coal may come
North Pacific.
F
66
COAST OF SAN SALVADOR.
to have a first value. Mr. Squier says that there is reason to believe that
vast beds exist throughout the valley of the Rio Lempa, and in the valleys of
some of its principal tributaries, over a region 100 miles long by not far from
20 miles broad. It had long been reported to exist, but he set the question
at rest after his visit in 1853, by proper investigations. Coal was found in
the valley of the Rio Titiguapa, flowing into the Lempa from the coast, also
in the valley of the Rio Tordla, and large beds are reported to exist near the
town of Itobasco. The coal is all of the variety called brown coal, and is a
later formation than what is known as pit coal; similar coal is extensively
used in Germany for various mineral purposes.
The entrance to the Lempa River is similar in character to the others West
of it. It is known by some large trees with white trunks, with the tops al-
most bare, rising above the lighter coloured and lower wood, similar to the
copsewood of northern countries. It is found when coming from the East or
South, by bringing San Salvador to bear N. 50° W., or San Vicente N. 16°
W., and then running on either of these bearings will bring up to the bar.
Coming from the westward, San Miguel bearing N. 60° E., will bring you up
to it. The entrance is about half a mile broad, barred by breakers, which
reach a mile off, and which the natives say cannot be taken. It is quite
unimportant, and there are only a few fishing huts on its left bank.
Above this port and the mouth of the river the Volcan de San Miguel rises.
It is 7,024 feet high, and is a very conspicuous object in the offing, and will
serve well to point out the locality.
LA CONCORDIA, a "port" of late growth, is at the mouth of the River
Jiboa, 11 miles W.N.W. of that of the Lempa. This river drains the Lake
of Itopango, but we have no particulars of the anchorage.
PORT LIBERTAD is about 50 miles to the westward of the Lempa.
It was visited by H.M.S. Sulphur, and we copy her commander's observa-
tions on it.
One would naturally expect from this title that something pretending to a
bay, or deep indentation at least, would have warranted the appellation. But
a straight sandy beach, between two slightly projecting ledges of rock about
a mile asunder, forms the plaza of Libertad. It is law and interest only that
have made it a port.
At times the bay is smooth, but the substratum at the beach being of
large smooth boulders of compact basalt, the instant the surf rises they
are freed from their sandy covering, and a dangerous moving strong bottom
left, on which the boat grounded. We were informed that it is generally
violent for three or four days, at full and change, which corresponded to the
time of our visits.
The rollers which set in on this beach curl and break at times in 4 or 5 fa-
thoms, at least a quarter of a mile off. Those within, which are the most
dangerous, are caused by the offset or efflux.
PORT LIBERTAD.
67
The sand beach is composed chiefly of magnetic iron sand, the dried
superstratum, about one inch in thickness, caking in flakes free from ad-
mixture,
The anchorage is uneasy, and I should think unsafe, and should be avoided
near the full moon. Sudden rollers come in, which are apt to snap chain ca-
bles, unless with a long range,
Poultry, bullocks, &c., are to be obtained, but compared with those of San
Salvador or Realejo, the prices are exorbitant. Bullocks can only be embarked
in one of their bungoes.
The port, after this, was for a long time deserted, but when Captain de
Lapelin came here in 1852, it had been reinstated, and the custom-house
stores re-built. A launch was also maintained, going out and returning by
means of the andarivel. The mark for approaching it is to bring the volcano
of San Salvador to bear N. E., which bearing will lead up to it.
1
When at 8 miles off the depth will be about 25 or 27 fathoms, muddy
bottom, which depth will gradually decrease toward the shore. At about 6
miles off you will begin to make out the large storehouse covered with trees,
and with whitewashed walls, having a flagstaff to the East, and a white
house to the West; when nearer you will see the tops of the palmetto trees
and some huts. When a mile off the place the depth will be about 81 fa-
thoms. Water may be got though with difficulty, from the little River Que-
lama, which falls into the sea at less than half a mile West of the village
Capt. De Lapelin adds his opinion that this place should not be frequented
between July and October.
SAN SALVADOR, the capital of the redublic, is to the N.E. of Libertad. They
are connected by a cart road 26 miles long.
Sir Edward Belcher visited this city in April, 1837, going thither from
Realejo, the road being through a very mountainous tract. The town is very
prettily situated on a level plain, or amphitheatre, from which several lofty
mountains rise, that of the Volcan de San Salvador being the most con-
spicuous.* San Salvador was the capital city of the confederation of the
* When we first saw the mountain of Guatemala, we were, by judgment, 25 leagues' dis-
tance from it. As we came nearer the land it appeared higher and plainer, yet we saw no
fire, but a little smoke proceeding from it. The land by the sea was of a good height, yet
but low in comparison with that in the country. The sea, for about 8 or 10 leagues from the
shore, was full of floating trees or drift wood, as it is called (of which I have seen a great
deal, but nowhere so much as here), and pumice stones floating, which probably are thrown
out of the burning mountains, and washed down to the shore by the rains, which are very
violent and frequent in this country.
The Volcan of Guatemala is a very high mountain, with two peaks or heads, appearing
like two sugar-loaves. It often belches forth flames of fire and smoke from between the two
heads, and this, as the Spaniards do report, happens chiefly in tempestuous weather.—
Dampier, vol. i, pp. 225-230.
F 2
68
COAST OF SAN SALVADOR.
States of Central America, and in imitation of the Washington in the United
States, it had a Federal district assigned to it, which included the Port of
Libertad, but this confederation was dissolved in 1839. It was a very hand-
some city, of 25,000 inhabitants, with fine churches and public buildings:
but on April 16th, 1854, at 10 minutes to eleven, such a terrific earthquake
occurred almost without the slightest warning, that in ten seconds the entire
city was thrown into heaps of ruins. It was then nearly deserted, and the
seat of government was removed to Cojutepeque, about 12 leagues distant.
But it is now in course of being rebuilt, the people having generally returned,
and it may soon regain its former position.
Under the auspices of a late President, Dueñas, the cart road was nearly
completed to Libertad, a distance of about 22 miles.
The COAST between Libertad and Acajutla is very uneven, covered with
trees, or with reddish-coloured barren patches. On the sea it forms cliffs,
bordered by a beach of shingle. It is known as the Costa del Balsamo, as the
Indians here collect the "Balsam of Peru." It is, however, quite clean,
and may be approached within view of the breakers.
A district along the coast, between the Ports of Libertad and Acajutla, is
called, as above said, the Costa del Balsamo; it produces an article known
commercially as the Balsam of Peru, from its having been sent to Lima for
export to Europe. It is collected solely by the aboriginal Indians who in-
habit that district. About 20,000 lbs. (valued at two shillings, or 50 cents.)
are obtained for annual export.
Indigo is the chief article of export. Under the Spanish rule, the value
of this article amounted to 3,000,000 dollars per annum; but since the inde-
pendence of the state, it has sunk to little more than 1,000,000 dollars.—
(Dr. Otis.)
PORT ACAJUTLA, or Sonsonate Roads, is the next attainable point be
yond Libertad.
The principal town of this port is Sonsonate,* which is situated about 15
miles inland. There is also a small village on the coast which gives its name
to the port; it consists of about thirty habitations of various descriptions,
* Sonsonate, or Zonzonate, derives its name from the Rio Grande, formed by almost in-
numerable springs of water, to which the name of Zezontlatl is given, a Mexican word mean-
ing 400 springs, corrupted to Zonzonate.
"Santissima Trinidad de Zonzonate is situated on the Rio Grande. It is a pleasant town,
although the climate is very hot. Each of three monastic orders have (had) a convent here.
The church is very spacious, besides which there are three oratories. On the opposite side
of the river it has a suburb called the Barrio del Angel, on which there is a chapel. The
communication between the town and the suburb is by means of a stone bridge. In the
vicinity are three small Indian villages, &c."-Don Dom. Juarros: Translation by Mr.
Baily, p. 28,
PORT ACAJUTLA.
69
most of them of the meanest order; they are constructed of bamboo open
work at the sides, and the top is rudely thatched of palm leaves, which latter
is, however, made impervious to the heavy rains that fall almost perpendi-
cularly in the wet season. The tile-roofed custom-house stores is one of the
most conspicuous buildings, and there is also still remaining the ruins of an
old Spanish fort, in which is situated the dwelling-house of the governor.
This officer performs all the official duties of captain of the port, adminis-
trator, &c. The business of the port had increased considerably in conse-
quence of the duties being lower than in Guatemala.
Vessels leaving Europe in August, September, October, November, and
December, are sure to arrive during the best season for disembarking on the
coast. No vessel should arrive later than the middle of April, as after that
date the rains set in, and a heavy sea rolls in upon the coast, which prevents
the launches from venturing out.
The port consists of an open bay, of which Point Remedios is the eastern
boundary. There is anchorage all over it at a prudent distance from the
shore in from 7 to 15 fathoms water; the bottom appears to be of sand, with
here and there a patch of mud. Large vessels should not anchor in less than
12 fathoms.
The surf breaks heavily on the beach, which renders landing in ships'
boats almost impracticable. The usual mode of effecting this object was in
large canoes or bongoes, which are kept for the purpose of discharging car-
goes. There is generally one of these kept afloat, moored just without the
surf in the N.E. corner of the bay, near where the village is situated: per-
sons desirous of landing usually pull in in their own boats, transfer them-
selves, with a portion of their crew, into the bongo, and haul in through the
surf to the beach by a line fast to the shore for that purpose. To get on
shore dry, they will then require to be carried out through the receding surf,
which is about 1 foot or 18 inches deep. This contrivance, called at Istapa
the anda-rivel, is described more fully on page 73.
Formerly this mode of landing and embarking was the only one practica-
ble, but the increasing commerce of the place, and the fact of a steep flat
rock projecting from the shore about 70 feet at three-quarters of a mile
from the original landing place, and being deep water close up to this
rock suggested to Dr. Drivon, a rich proprietor, the formation of a pier.
The rock had long been called El Muelle. The pier was completed in 1854,
and consists of a substantial timber construction leading on to this rock, and
has a crane by which the ships' cargo is discharged or embarked. In front
of the rock is a channel of 11 or 12 fathoms depth, and it is said that no sea
is sent into it sufficiently heavy to affect a vessel made fast to the four
moorings placed there for the purpose. This immunity from danger may be
doubted in some degree, but its safety is well understood by the local pilots.
Water is conducted to the pier-head, so that it may be taken on board by a
70
COAST OF SAN SALVADOR.
hose. By giving two days' notice, fresh provisions may be obtained in large
quantities from Sonsonate.
Point Remedios has a reef off it extending in a south-westerly direction.
nearly 3 miles in fine weather. This reef scarcely shows itself, therefore more
caution is necessary in rounding it. Vessels of a light draught have fre-
quently passed safely over the outer part of it unknowingly, whereas several
others, less fortunate, have been brought up by detached rocks, and a total
wreck has ensued. The point is long and low, thickly wooded, and from the
eastward easily recognized.
Beef, poultry, vegetables, and fruit, are plentiful and cheap. Water is
plentiful on shore, but the difficulty of getting it off through the surf is
very great; however, if much wanted, it may be had with a little extra la-
bour and perseverance.
The mark for anchoring was, in 1852, the flagstaff on with the large door
of the custom-house store, in 7 to 14 fathoms, according to the season. The
flagstaff should not be brought N. of N. 61° E., particularly when near the
land, as the bottom will then be rocky, and there is the chance of breaking
or losing the anchor. The bottom is not good holding ground, and vessels
sometimes drive. In the fine season the current generally runs to the E.S.E.
at the rate of eight-tenths of a mile per hour. It is high water, at full and
change, at 2¹ 35m; greatest range 11 feet.
H.M.S. Havana anchored here in May, 1859, in 12 fathoms, with the land-
ing place N. 55° E., and Point Remedios N. 81° 25′ E., the shoal off the latter
sheltering her from the S.E.
Captain Harvey says:-Here we found a substantially built wharf, at
which there is generally fair landing, although at times the surf is such as to
prevent any approach. Merchant vessels discharge and receive cargo by
their own boats. Beef, stock, vegetables, and fruits may be obtained in any
quantity from Sonsonate; but two days' notice must be given to secure having
any considerable amount. The pier, happily, is provided with cranes, which
were useful in getting off bullocks. A vessel should stand no nearer to the
Remedios Bank than to 20 fathoms without a good breeze and clear weather
The volcano Isalco was burning the whole of the stay. No lighthouse gives
a better light; the bearing, N.E. by N. is a good mark for the port.
The following observations on this port, and on approaching it, are by
Captain Worth. of H.M.S. Calypso, in 1847;
Acajutla, or Sonsonate Roads, although not much known, is safe, the
oldest inhabitant remembering only one wreck: the reef off Remedios Point
breaks, the sea setting directly into the anchorage. Here the salt water
is very injurious to the cables and copper; although at anchor not more
than a fortnight, the cable and anchor were completely covered with small
shell-fish, as also the boom boats; this remark is applicable to all the ports.
we visited on this coast, though not so much as at this place.
PORT ACAJUTLA.
:
71
The passages to the westward are uncertain as to time, the land and sea
breezes being so very unsettled.
The land-breeze always blows (if ever interrupted, only for a short
period) at all the ports we visited, except Conchagua, and is nearly al-
ways sufficient to take a ship to sea. As a rule, I should recommend,
on leaving any port, that you stand off shore, always bearing in mind that
the sea-breeze is from South to S.W. There is a current always setting to
the S.E.
Between Conchagua and Acajutla the passage is very tedious, being never
less than two days, and sometimes five, and even longer, the land-breeze
being not to be depended on, and the sea-breeze often very light, although
at times the sea-breeze will blow very fresh indeed. The best plan, after
leaving Conchagua, is to stand rather off shore, so as to make a long leg off
with the sea-breeze.
The coast is quite clear, there being anchorage nearly all along it.
We found the sea-breeze seldom set in before noon, and often later, and a
continual set to the S.E. The leading mark for Acajutla is the Isalco Vol-
cano, which smokes, and frequently sends up large jets of fire. On a N.E.
by N. bearing it leads to the anchorage off Acajutla. Point Remedios, long,
low, and thickly wooded, may easily be recognised.
This anchorage is difficult for a stranger to find; the best plan is to take
notice of the several volcanoes on the coast, after leaving Conchagua; viz.,
San Miguel, San Vincent, and San Salvador. The land is a low beach, the
soundings decreasing gradually to 10 fathoms, at 3 or 4 miles off shore, until
the volcanoes are past, when it becomes tolerably high, and has 25 fathoms
at a little distance from the beach, particularly in the bight to the S.E. of
Point Remedios, where in that depth the surf can be heard quite distinctly.
Point Remedios, which runs out from this moderately high land, is low, and
thickly wooded, appears to stretch a long way into the sea, and has several
black rocks, one nearly a solid square, lying just off it; these rocks are the
inside part of a reef extending 3 miles in a S.W. direction, on which the sea
breaks heavily at times. On the S.E. side of this point the beach is clear,
having no rocks upon it; but on the N.E. side it is broken by rocks and
clumps of trees, dividing it into a number of small sandy bays. Should you
not be close in, you cannot make the point out, as it appears part of the low,
thickly-wooded land that stretches from the before-mentioned moderately
high coast to the westward of Istapa.
The Volcano of Isalco, 5,000 feet high, is decidedly the surest mark, bear-
ing N.E. N., if it can be made out; but, as it does not smoke constantly,
and is situated on the side of, and is lower than, the mountains behind (Sierra
Madre), it is very difficult to find.
The Madre, and mountains to the westward of Isalco, are very high; it
may be known by the table-land top, in which it differs from the others, they
72
COAST OF GUATEMALA.
being conical, or approaching that form. The Isalco is a conical volcano,
apparently on the East side of the Madre, and the crater is about one-
fourth down from the table land.
The coast between Acajutla and San José or Istapa, a distance of 56 miles
runs W.N.W. and E.S.E., with scarcely any inflexion; it is throughout of
gray sand, wooded to the shore, and beaten by a continual surf. Here and there
the vegetation is of a paler green, and the whitened stems of the mangroves
indicate the impassable entrances of the Rios dos Esclavos,* Pazas (the state
boundary), Santiago, and Caoba. There is no danger off shore, and the depths
are regular, of sandy mud. The current runs from West to East, at half a
mile to one mile per hour.
The best course to pursue in coming from Acajutla to Istapa, or rather San
José, is to keep 2 or 3 miles off the land, in 16 or 25 fathoms, so as to take
advantage of the land breezes, which are generally light. The sea breeze
often sets in from S.W. to W.S.W., and then you can beat in shore into 12
fathoms. The lead is an excellent guide, and there is nothing to fear, as the
depths diminish regularly. But when the sea breeze sinks about 6 p.m., and
the land breeze will not give you a way of 3 knots, it is better to anchor at
once, or you may lose ground.
5. GUATEMALA.
The Republic of Guatemala is the principal state of Central America, in
respect of population and wealth. It is generally mountainous, but a large
part of the interior consists of elevated lands of unsurpassed beauty of
scenery, of vast fertility, and unquestionable salubrity. Its great deficiency
is the want of ports on either ocean, and this fact will act as a great check
on its commercial progress. On the Pacific it extends from the River Pazas to
the confines of Mexico. This last boundary has been the subject of long dis-
pute, but it was settled in 1854 by Guatemala ceding all right to the rich dis-
trict of Soconusco, extending for nearly one hundred miles along the Pacific,
on the payment by Mexico of a considerable sum. The rivers falling into the
* "The Rio de los Esclavos, which falls into the sea West of Acajutla, is described by
Stephens as a wild majestic river. He crossed the bridge over it, erected under the Spanish
dominion, and the greatest structure of that period. The village beyond was a mere col-
lection of huts, standing in a magnificent situation near the river, and above which moun-
tains rise covered to their summits with pines. Every predatory or fighting expedition-be-
tween Guatemala and San Salvador passed through this miserable village. Twice within
his route Morazan's army was so straitened for provisions, and pressed by fear of pursuit,
that huts were torn down for firewood, and bullocks slain and eaten half raw in the street,
without bread or tortillas. After leaving this village, the country was covered with lava."
-Incidents of Travel.
ISTAPA.
73
Pacific are few and small, the largest is the Michitoyat, which passes the
capital, but none of them can ever be of use to navigation
The famous volcanoes which are such a distinguishing feature of this great
isthmus are here seen in their greatest majesty, and the Volcans de Agua,
14,500 feet, and Fuego, 13,900 feet (near Old Guatemala), and Atitlan 11,500
feet, have been very frequently described. The present capital is Nueva
Guatemala, the third city of its name, and was founded in 1776. It stands
at an elevation of 4,400 feet, in a vast and beautiful plain inland of its new
port, San José. Cochineal, coffee, cotton, and indigo, are the chief products
for export, but the first is the great staple of the country. Like its neigh-
bour, the commerce of the republic is largely indebted to the various fairs
which are held in different parts and in different seasons.
ISTAPA, or Iztapam, at the mouth of the River Michatoyat (or Michi-
toya), is the outlet of the Lake of Amatitlan, and is said to be navigable
from the Falls of San Pedro Martyr, 70 miles from its mouth. It was from
the first the port of Guatemala, but it was closed on January 1st, 1853, when
the port of San José, 8 miles to the westward, was declared to be the
new port. This change was nautically unimportant, for both places were
alike, wild open roadsteads, without a single attribute to give it the name of
port. The village now consists of a few grass huts.
Istapa was an open roadstead, without bay, headland, rock, or reef, or
any mark whatever to distinguish it from the adjacent shores. "There is
no light at night, and vessels at sea take their bearings from the great
volcanoes of the Antigua, more than 60 miles inland. A buoy was anchored
outside of the breakers, with a cable attached, and under the sheds were
three large launches for embarking and disembarking the cargoes of the few
vessels which resort to this place. Behind the sand-bar were a few Indian
huts, and Indians nearly naked. Generally the sea is, as its name imports,
pacific, and the waves roll calmly to the shore; but in the smoothest times
there is a breaker, and to pass this, as a part of the fixtures of the port, an
anchor is dropped outside with a buoy attached, and a long cable passing
from the buoy is secured on the shore.* It was from this place that Alva-
*The discharge and loading of vessels lying off Istapa, and other places on this coast,
which is not effected in the easiest manner through such a tremendous surf lashing the
shore, is done by means of what is called here the "anda-rivel," Anglicè, "guess-warp," above
alluded to.
This contrivance consists of a cable made fast to a strong post on the shore, the outer end
of which is secured by an anchor some distance outside the surf. Within this anchor,
which is marked by a buoy, but still sufficiently clear of the broken water, is another buoy
attached to the warp, by means of which the strong launch employed is siezed to it, or
casts it off. The launch having been brought to the warp buoy, the warp is thrown into
rowlocks, one on the bow, the other on the stern of the launch. These are then bolted in
with a pin to prevent their slipping off, and secured by a stopper, wormed round it near
74
COAST OF GUATEMALA.
rado fitted out his armament, and embarked with his followers to dispute
with Pizarro the riches of Peru.-(Stephens.)
1
The usual anchorage was with the flagstaff bearing between N. by E. and
N. E. at half a mile off shore in 14 to 16 fathoms. It is best to anchor to
the East of these bearings, as there the boats in landing have the advantage
of the current which runs to the eastward at from 8-10 to 13 mile per hour.
Mountains.-The following remarks are by Mr. H. Thompson, master of
H.M.S. Talbot :—The whole of this country is remarkable for its mountainous
ranges, which may be seen in clear weather from a great distance seaward,
many of their lofty peaks and volcanoes serving admirably as beacons to
guide strangers to the various little ports and roadsteads situated on its
coast, which otherwise would not be easily found. Such is the case when
bound to the roadstead off the village of Istapa. There are visible from the
vicinity of this roadstead, to many miles seaward, four conspicuous moun-
tains, which are situated as follows: commencing with the easternmost one,
which is the volcano of Pacayo; next West of this is the water volcano (Vol-
can de Agua) of Guatemala; then the fire volcano (Volcan de Fuego) of
Guatemala, and the last and westernmost is the volcano of Tajumulco. The
first and last of these volcanoes are of a moderate height, and flattened or
scooped out at the top; but the two middle ones, which are the volcanoes of
Guatemala, are considerably higher, and much more peaked at their tops.
The easternmost one of the two last-mentioned is the water volcano; it has
but one peak, which at some periods of the year, is slightly snow-capped,
and from the holes and crevices near its summit ice is procured the whole
year round for the luxurious inhabitants of Guatemala. The fire volcano is
to the westward of the last-mentioned, and appears to have two peaked
summits, which open and close according to their bearing. From the road-
stead it has the appearance of one mountain with a deep notch in its summit.
The upper part of this mountain has a whitish appearance, which might be
mistaken for snow; but I am informed that it is caused by the action of fire.
Smoke is constantly emitted from it, and may be seen from the sea in clear
weather. From the anchorage at Istapa the true bearings of these four
mountains are as follow: viz., volcano of Pacayo, N. 22° E.; water volcano
the bolts. The bogas, or watcrmen, watch the heaves of the sea, which, singularly enough,
ure always heaviest in threes, and when the heaviest wave approaches, the pilot gives the
signal, the lashings which secure the bow and stern are slipped, and at the same moment all
hands haul in the warp; while running on the tremendous wave she is propelled with im-
mense rapidity, and is usually driven on to the beach with the succeeding wave, when
generally forty or fifty Indians, with the fall of an "aparejo," or treble-purchase line, which
is hooked to a ring on the launch's stern-post, and secured to the post, haul her high and
dry with the next wave. It sometimes happens that the practico, or bowman, does not take
the right sea, and then a larger breaks over her, swamping the launch, or damaging the
cargo, or perhaps losing it.-G. U. Skinner, Esq.
SAN JOSE DE GUATEMALA.
75
of Guatemala, N. 5° E.; fire volcano of Guatemala, N. 8° W.; and the
volcano of Tajumulco, N. 28° W. The thatched roof of a large hut, in the
village of Istapa, which was just visible over the high white beach, then bore
N. 17° E., distant about 24 miles, and the depth of water was about 17½
fathoms. The above bearings of either of the volcanoes of Guatemala nearly
on will guide a vessel to within a few miles of the anchorage, and sufficiently
near to make out the thatched roof of the above-mentioned hut, which is the
only object that marks the spot, the remaining small huts, which constitute
the village, being hidden behind the beach. There is also a small flagstaff
close to the largest hut; but, unless the flag be flying, it is difficult to dis-
tinguish it, in consequence of its being mixed up with the trunks of trees
that stand behind it. The entrance to the river is choked up by the sea-
beach, through which it has not strength enough to force itself. The village
of Istapa consisted of about fifteen huts, which afford shelter to about forty
or fifty inhabitants, who occasionally find employment in discharging mer-
chandise from the very few vessels that call here.
In the bad season I should imagine this a very unsafe place to anchor at,
owing to its being entirely exposed to the ocean swell, which, with the
southerly winds, is exceedingly heavy. Landing is only practicable in the
finest weather.
SAN JOSE DE GUATEMALA, the new port of Guatemala, established
January 1, 1853, is at a place previously called Zapote. There is not the
slightest shelter, and there is always a very heavy swell, and rollers occa-
sionally.
The coast is very clear, running East and West. The anchorage is about
three-quarters of a mile from shore, in 11 to 15 fathoms of water. The
swell breaks heavily upon the shore, and out as far as 40 or 50 fathoms
from the beach, making it necessary to use the girt line (anda-rivel) for
landing and leaving. The currents are very strong, and vary with each
change of the moon, the variations sometimes taking place within the short
period of six hours. From November to February the landing is easy. In
March the ebb and flow of the tide extends from 90 to 100 yards over the
shore, and at the flood-tide the surf is so heavy as to dash up the beach a
distance of 100 to 120 yards. After March the sea is again calm till July,
and from July to December it is again rough, and the landing difficult.
An iron screw-piled pier is in course of construction by the government of
Guatemala, extending from the shore to a point beyond the breakers, thus
enabling the transportation between ship and shore to be performed at every
season of the year with facility and safety.
The town of San José has a population of between two and three hundred.
Supplies for vessels are, however, procured with much difficulty here, unless
provision be previously made to obtain them from Escuiatla, a town 40 miles
distant, on the road to the capital. There are no means of refitting or re-
76
COAST OF GUATEMALA.
pairing vessels at present. The modes of conveyance to the interior are by
mules and stages, and are sufficient. Diligences await the arrival of the
Panama railroad company's steamers, for conveying passengers to the capi-
tal, 90 miles distant, and the roads in the dry season are excellent. In the
wet season the roads are bad as far as Escuiatla.
Captain T. Harvey, R.N., who came here in H.M.S. Havana, in May,
1859, says that the place is utterly undeserving the name of a port,
although it is the only landing-place for goods for Guatemala. The an-
chorage affords no shelter whatever; the surf has its full force. The only
way a landing can be effected is by means of a surf-boat, and even this was
capsized four times during our stay. The town of San José consists of some
half-dozen grass huts and a flagstaff, which cannot be distinguished beyond
five miles from the shore. The current generally sets to the westward, and
yet a continuation of westerly winds will alter it.
Capt. G. F. Emmons, U.S.S. Ossipee, who came here, in 1868, says-San
José is becoming a port of some importance as the only landing-place for
goods on the coast of Guatemala, with this exception, it has no claim to the
name of a port, being merely an open roadstead. The few grass houses
composing the town are built among the trees on a high dark sandy beach,
a large white storehouse which can be seen at a distance of 6 miles forms the
only mark on the coast for the port.
The anchorage is opposite this house in from 8 to 13 fathoms sand, distant
about 1 or 1½ mile from the land. A heavy surf breaks on the shore, and
the communication is carried on by means of hawsers attached to buoys
moored off the beach, but the iron pier, in the course of construction, will
facilitate commerce. A steamer from Panama calls here once a fortnight.
There is some difficulty in finding the anchorage of San José, the coast
line in the neighbourhood being one unbroken line of beach and trees; the
best marks, however, on coming from seaward, are the remarkable volcanic
peaks of Guatemala, generally visible at dawn. Four of these peaks can be
seen from the anchorage on the following bearings :-Tajamulco N.W. & N.,
El Fuego N. by W. W., La Agua North, and Pacaya N. by E. E.
El Fuego and La Agua being the nearest and most conspicuous, the former
may be known by a deep notch in its summit, while the latter being brought
to bear North, forms the best guide till the white storehouse can be dis-
tinguished.
The position of this anchorage has been determined from several autho-
rities to be in lat. 13° 55′ N., and long. 90° 45′ W.
Of the coast of Guatemala to the W.N.W. of Istapa we have no particular
account. From Malaspina's survey there does not appear to be any port,
and the ocean swell must set on it with more than ordinary force. To the
sailor, then, it is unimportant. The republic extends to the boundary of
that of Mexico, once fixed at the River Sintalapa (or Tilapa), a distance of
COAST OF GUATEMALA.
77
180 miles from Istapa. It forms the southern side of the province of
Suchiltepeques, and is the eastern portion of the extensive bay called the
Gulf of Tehuantepec.
The Province of Suchiltepeques is bounded on the West by the Mexican pro-
vince Soconusco, and extends along the Pacific 32 leagues. It was much more
populous formerly than in Juarros' time. The climate is warm, but less so
than Soconusco. The province is watered by sixteen rivers; of these the
Samala, which discharges itself into the sea, under the name of the Xica-
lapa, is the most important. It is fertile from its situation, and abundance
of water; the chief article of commerce is cocoa, so excellent in quality as to
be preferred by many to that of Soconusco.
CHAPTER II.
THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO, BETWEEN TEHUAN-
TEPEC AND MAZATLAN.
THE coast described in the present chapter may be said to be that of the
South extreme of the North American continent, and is the southern sea-
board of the provinces of Chiapa, Oaxaca, Puebla, Mexico, Valladolid, and
Guadalajara, portions of the Mexican republic.
Our geographical knowledge of the republic, generally, is very incomplete
and unsatisfactory. On the Pacific shores, if the commercial importance of
its few ports were at all commensurate with the natural riches of the dis-
tricts of which they might be the outlets, navigators would be much embar-
rassed by the deficiency of our charts and descriptions. But as few points.
are visited for any purposes of trade, we have tolerably accurate and recent
descriptions of those ports; and in the ensuing pages it is hoped that there
will be found ample notices to allow the ship-master to approach them with
confidence and safety.
Mexico, as is well known, has been the scene of constant intestine warfare
and change for many years past; and to this evil must be added the very
great ignorance of the great mass of the people-a startling fact in a republio,
the basis of whose safety is the capacity of the people for an intellectual self-
government.
When Nunez de Balboa first landed on its shores (in the Mexican Gulf),
Montezuma I. was emperor, and had extended the Aztec dominions to the
Pacific. The conquest of his kingdom by Cortes is well known, and Mexico
became a vice-royalty to Spain; and, with powers almost as absolute as that
of the parent monarchy, Mexico was scarcely known to Europe, except by
its issue of the precious metals. When Charles VI. of Spain abdicated in
1808, the royal authority here received a shock from which it never recovered;
for an open insurrection broke out in 1810, and a national congress assem-
bled in 1813, one of the earliest acts of which was a declaration of the in-
MEXICO.
79
dependence of Mexico. Subsequently, the history is one of a sanguinary
guerilla warfare, until, in 1821, Iturbide was made emperor, under the
title of Augustine I. He soon abdicated and retired, but returning, he was
apprehended and executed. The government was then modelled on a similar
constitution to that of the United States; but the original party divisions.
remained, though under different names. The campaign which led to the
annexation of Upper California to the United States in 1847 led to no in-
ternal amelioration, and the first hopes of the world were defeated, when
the state was destroyed as an empire by the death of the heroic Maximilian,
To these disturbances, and consequent insecurity of property, must be attri-
buted the embarrassments of commercial enterprise, the enactments of the
law, and the long train of evils which lie so heavy on this fine country, and
its otherwise, in many respects, good population.
The country of Mexico, especially that part on the Pacific, is divided by
the natives into tierras calientes, or hot regions; the tierras templadas, or tem-
perate regions; and the tierras frias, or cold regions; the first including
those beneath the elevation of 2,000 feet; the latter tract occupies the most.
important part of Mexico, and, in fact, is that vast plateau on which Mexico
stands. On the low lands of the coasts the heat, during part of the year, is
insupportable, even by the natives, and thus the town of San Blas becomes.
annually depopulated for a season.
The Cordillera or mountain chain, which, in the southern Andes, is a well-
marked line of lofty ranges, and less distinctly so in the North and through-
out Guatemala, in Mexico divides to two somewhat indistinct branches, fol-
lowing either coast. That to the South is irregular, and in some parts but
little known. At the head of the Gulf of Tehuantepec it is about 60 miles
off the coast, on an average, but leaves many valleys of slight elevation be-
tween the detached portions of it. To the mariner most of them are unim-
portant, unless we mention the volcano of Colima, which becomes an excel-
lent landmark for that portion of the coast. Most of the peaks are volcanic,
some in activity; and the usual volcanic phenomena of eruptions and earth-
quakes are frequent, the latter particularly so; and many severe visitations
of this sort are upon record. At Acapulco this becomes a serious bar to its
permanent prosperity.
Of our hydrographical knowledge of the Pacific coast a word may be
said. With some detached portions we are intimately acquainted, through
the excellent surveys made in 1837-8, by Sir Edward Belcher, of the English
navy, when on this coast in H.M.S. Sulphur. These points of Guatulco,
Acapulco, San Blas, Chamatla, and Mazatlan, will be found described here-
after. In the voyage of the French frigate Venus, commanded by Du Petit
Thouars, who was on the coast at the same time with Sir Edward Belcher,
we find some information; and to M. Tessan, his hydrographical engineer,
we owe some of the graphic information we possess. By Captain (afterwards
80
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
Rear-Admiral) Beechey, who was here in H.M.S. Blossom, the nautical world
is informed of the exact nature of some of the islands and ports near the
Gulf of California.
For the remainder of the coast, the Spanish charts of the Madrid Hydro-
graphic Office furnish the details. In 1790 the Spanish Government de-
spatched an expedition, under Don Alexandro Malespina, for the exploration
of these shores, a task which we must suppose was completely performed;
but the publication of his journal, which was looked for by the learned of
Europe at that period, was frustrated by Malespina, a little time after his
return to Cadiz, being arrested by order of government, and thrown into the
prison of Buen Retiro, and afterwards transferred to one of the strong castles
of Coruna. In this captivity El Padro Gil, a man of great learning and
merit, also shared, and all papers and drawings belonging to, and collected
by, the expedition, were seized and suppressed by the government. Of the
cause of this little is known. The disturbed state of Spain, in reference to
her overgrown and ill-attached colonies, might have led to suspicions against
Malespina when in the country. Suffice it to say, that the charts, resulting
from the survey, were subsequently published, as drawn up by Don Felipe
Bauzá, F.R.S., from his observations while accompanying the expedition.
CLIMATE.-The following outline of the climate, weather, &c., by Commo-
dore C. B. Hamilton, will be found useful.
The West Coast of Mexico is considered highly dangerous in the bad
season, namely, from June to 5th of November, and all the vessels obliged
to remain in the neighbourhood lie up either in the secure harbour of
Guaymas or at Pichilique, in the bay of La Paz, both in the Gulf of
California.
The hurricanes that occasionally visit this coast are so much dreaded, that
in the months of July, August, September, and October, the ports are
deserted, and trade ceases.
I believe the Frolic is the first vessel of any nation, whether man-of-war
or merchant ship, that ever remained the whole bad season on the coast, and
that off the two most dangerous ports, namely, San Blas and Mazatlan. I
shall, therefore, give all the information I can relative to the bad season.
The hurricane so much dreaded on this coast is called the Cordonazo de
San Francisco, a name given by the Spaniards, on account of the hurricane
prevailing about the time of San Francisco's day, the 4th of October; the
word cordonazo signifying a heavy lash with a rope or whip; but, from my
own experience, and all I can learn, these cordonazos may be expected any
time from the middle of June to the 5th of November. The worst ones that
have been experienced of late years have occurred on the 1st of November,
although the weather usually clears up about the 20th of October, and some-
times even sooner; and as soon as the weather does begin to clear up, a
ship may, with common precautions, venture into the anchorages again, for
MEXICO.
81
this reason, the weather will give ample warning of a coming hurricane;
whereas, in the previous four months, before the weather has cleared
up, the
circumstance that adds to the dangers of this coast is, that owing to the
threatening appearance of the sky every evening, and the violent thunder
storms and squalls at night, accompanied by heavy rain and lightning, the
wind veering about, you are at first led to believe that the hurricane is
coming every night, and latterly you see it is utterly hopeless to foresee
the coming of it, as every night appearances were as bad as they could be;
the barometer here being of little or no use, and a tremendous sea occasion-
ally setting in. Thus the remaining off this coast during the hurricane
season will cause great anxiety.
The squalls and gales usually commence about S.E., and quickly fly
round to the southward and S.W.; you have generally time to get to sea
when it commences at S.E.; but, as I have before shown, you must go to sea
every night, if you can, if you would be free from the dangers of the cordo-
nazos coming on. But a tremendous swell frequently sets in whilst the
weather is in this threatening state, and the wind still light, which makes it
impossible to get out. Moreover, if our boats happened to be out, and on
shore when the swell came, it was impossible to hoist them in, and for this
reason we have frequently been obliged to send our boats from the ship,
with their crews, to be hauled up on shore, and remain there until the swell
went down, that I might be ready to slip and go to sea.
It appears that the cordonazos come on an average once in 6 or 8 years,
and we experienced none during our stay, although we had a gale on the
night of the 21st of September. I was fortunately under weigh, and had
plenty of room when it came on, having stood out to sea on the evening of
the 19th, on account of the weather being bad, and fearing the full of the
moon on the 20th.
It commenced about 9h 20m p.m. from the S.E., flying round to S.W.,
heavy rain, thunder, and lightning, with a very heavy sea, reducing us to
close-reefed main-topsail, and fore-staysail, washing away a boat, and oblig-
ing us to batten down. The squalls come on very suddenly, the prevailing
winds being in the bad season S.E. to S. and S.W., and the heavy swell
usually before and after the full and change of the moon. The swell is such
as is seen in the Bay of Biscay in a heavy gale, and, unfortunately, usually
sets into the bays before the wind comes.
I therefore think, that a ship caught at anchor off San Blas, or Mazatlan,
by a cordonazo, would have small chance of escape, especially off the former,
as she would either go on shore or go down at her anchors; to slip and stand
out the instant it commences from S.E. is her best course.
The range of the thermometer for June was 77° to 86°; July, 80° to 87°;
August, 81° to 89°: September, 83° to 92°; October, 83° to 90°. The
barometer appeared to be of little service, usually remaining 30 inches;
North Pacific.
G
82
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
seldom varying above a tenth, except during a heavy squall, when it rose
considerably.
After the 4th of November the coasting and other vessels again make their
appearance on the West coast of Mexico.
San Blas is very sickly during the bad season. Guaymas is healthy,
although the thermometer stands there at the astonishing height of 106° in
July, August, (and September; and, owing to the extreme dryness of the
atmosphere, ships receive much injury by the wood opening. Furniture,
apparently well seasoned, there cracks and falls to pieces.
On this coast there are some immense fish, of the ray species. I caught
two of them, and with difficulty hoisted one on board; it measured 19 feet
in breadth across the back, the mouth was 3 feet 5 inches wide, and the
flesh was 3 feet 6 inches in depth in the centre. I had no means of ascer-
taining the weight, but found I could not lift it with the yard tackles and 60
men, it requiring 130 men with the heaviest purchases in the ship to hoist it
in. These fish are common on the West coast of Mexico and Gulf of Cali-
fornia, where they are more dreaded by the pearl divers than sharks or any
other fish.
Of the eastern part of the Gulf of Tehuantepec we know very little more than
is shown in the chart from Malaspina's survey. The country is all volcanic
inland, and, from the proximity of the mountains to the sea, there is no
stream of sufficient strength to penetrate across the beach.
The GULF of TEHUANTEPEC, an inexpressive term, is given to the
slender bay which extends for about 180 miles westward from the frontier of
Guatemala, and is derived from the unimportant town which stands a few
miles inland at its head.
The American Isthmus is about 120 miles in breadth from the Gulf of
Campeche on the Atlantic side, and has received much attention from its
supposed fitness for an inter-oceanic canal, as the country seems to be a
remarkable depression of the Mexican plain.
Surveys were made of the Isthmus by General Don Juan de Orbegoso and
Don Tadeo Ortiz in 1825, and Don José Garay and Signor Gaetano Moro in
1842-43, for the same purpose, of forming a communication between the
Pacific and the Bay of Campeché, by means of a canal and the rivers falling
into the lagoon of Tehuantepec, and the River Goazacoalcos, which runs into
the Gulf of Campeché.
These surveys were not satisfactory, and it was accurately measured with
the view of establishing a railway, by a scientific commission under General
J. G. Barnard, U.S. Engineers, in 1850-1, by which its unfitness for a canal
was demonstrated.
The whole shore of Tehuantepec is subject to the visitation of terrific hur-
ricanes (which take their name from the isthmus), sweeping with resistless
VENTOSA BAY.
83
fury along this inhospitable coast, which does not afford a harbour of refuge
even for the smallest class of seagoing vessels.
Since the end of the sixteenth century Tehuantepec has been but very
little frequented; the sea retires daily from its shores, and the anchorage
deteriorates every year. The sand brought by the Chimalapa increases the
height and extent of the sandy bars lying at the exit of the channel from the
first lagoon into the second, and from this into the sea.
Between the base of the Cordillera and the ocean is a place which sepa-
rates them from the lagoons, which, like an immense bay, communicates
with the Pacific.
This llano, or plain, consists of a shifting soil, formed by the detritus of
the slate composing the adjacent hills, a species of rock, which appears from
time to time in erossing it towards the lakes, and even on the coasts, where
it forms the islands and capes.
From the Cordillera to the lagoons the plain occupies a space of about 6
leagues. Those of the lagoons most inland may be about 4 leagues broad;
and from its mouth, called the Barra de Santa Teresa, to the point where the
two discharge themselves into the ocean, called the Boca Barra, may be 3
leagues. This second bay, or inner lagoon, extends to the westward in the
form of a marshy lake, to the extent of 9 leagues, under the name of Tilema;
and to the East, to the Barra de Tenola (Tonala), to about 30 leagues.
There is but little depth in either of these; that outside has not more
than 14 feet in the centre, in the line of the canoe navigation. The sandy
tongue of land dividing the interior lagoon of the Tilema Marsh and that
dividing this from the ocean, is formed by the waters brought down by the
rivers coming from the Sierra Madre, particularly the Chicapa and the
Juchitan.
Boca Barra, as above said, is the outlet of the extensive lakes which lie
just within the line of sandy beach at the head of the Gulf of Tehuantepec,
lat. about 16° 12′, long. 94° 45′, and, according to Mr. Trastour's survey, ex-
tend for 12 miles to the eastward, and for 22 miles to the westward of this
entrance, varying from 3 to 11 miles in breadth. The Boca Barra is 500 ft.
wide, with a least depth of 7 to 10 feet, but the current sets out of it with
great velocity. Mr. Trastour, on Nov. 9th, 1850, at 113h, found it to run
out at the rate of 7 miles an hour.
VENTOSA BAY.-The Bay of La Ventosa, the harbour of Tehuantepec,
is in lat. 16° 11' N. and long. 95º 8′ W.
Its S.W. limit is formed by the Cerro Morro, an isolated rock of an oblong
shape, rounded at the summit, about 150 feet high and 2,600 in circum-
ference; and a little more to the South by a pointed rock, separated from
the former by an interval filled in with sand, and forming an angular pro-
jection into the sea called the Morro Point. This point is the eastern extre-
G 2
84
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
mity of a line of rocky hills which forms the coast for a mile to the west-
ward, and is the termination of a spur from the Cordillera of Oaxaca.
To the northward of the Cerro Morro is the sandy beach, which trends
first to the northward and then eastward, the seaward limits of an extensive
plain, scarcely broken by the isolated hillocks of Huazoatlan. This beach is
cut by sandy and shallow lagoons, having several outlets into the sea, and
by the bed of the Tehuantepec River. At the time of the periodical over-
flowing this current flows over a low country before reaching the ocean,
which it does by its mouth, a mile to the N.N.E. of the Morro.
It appears to have good holding ground, the depth being 6 to 9 fathoms,
sandy clay bottom. The greatest difference in the level of the water ob-
served was 6 feet. Ships ride sheltered under the Morro.
The N.N.E. wind commences in the middle of October, and ceases early in
April. It is at its height, and blows without interruption in November, but
after this it is not so regular, and gradually ceases altogether.
If the summits of the mountains of Guichicovi and San Miguel Chimalapa,
about 45 miles distant to the North and N.E., but visible from sea, are
hidden by slate-coloured vapour at sundown, the northers will blow next
day. If these mists are seen at the former hour on the southern horizon,
the S.S.W. wind will blow on the following day.
The environs were carefully surveyed, under the direction of Major Bar-
nard, in December, 1850, by Mr. P. E. Trastour, C.E., as a terminus for the
Tehuantepec Railway, which was proposed to cross the isthmus from the
upper course of the Goatzacoalcos River at Minatitlan. This river falls into
the Gulf of Mexico, and the railway was proposed to terminate on the Pacific
to the north-eastward of the Morro, from which a pier was proposed to be
run out for one-sixth of a mile into 6 fathoms.
Salina Cruz Bay lies to the westward of the hills extending from the
Morro of La Ventosa. From the termination of that group of high lands
the sandy beach of Salina Cruz trends to W. by N. for about 1½ mile, and
bending to the southward terminates at Salina Cruz Point, a rocky projection
off which are several clusters of rocks, above and under water, to the extent
of a cable's length, but the water is deep, 8 and 9 fathoms, just outside of
them. In the bay the depth increases from 4 fathoms near the shore to 8
and 10 fathoms at 3 cables' lengths from the sandy beach. At a quarter of
a mile North of the point, at the foot of the high ground, is a spring.
Salina del Marques lies to the westward of Salina Cruz, and is similarly
formed, about 2 miles in extent, with lagoons at the back of the strand.
The town of TEHUANTEPEC is about 11 miles in direct distance northward
from the beach of these bays. It has a population of about 13,000, and has
several churches and a modern college.
The coast beyond this is very imperfectly represented, and the names of
places are not recognizable on Bauza's chart. We have the following
THE MORRO AYUCA.
85
accounts of two landing-places between Salinas and Guatulco, from the
Nautical Magazine, as related by Captain Peter Masters.
The Bay of Bamba does not appear on the chart. The following descrip-
tion is by Captain Masters:-Punta de Zipgeua is in lat. 16° 1' N., long. 95°
28′ 30″ W. (?) From this point to the Morro de Ystapa the coast runs about
W.N.W. by compass. Between these points are several bluff headlands.
They do not project far out from the general line of coast, and afford no
shelter. Punta de Zipegua forms the eastern part of what is called the Bay
of Bamba, and is a very remarkable headland. From the westward it
shows itself with a bold dark cliff to the sea, about 400 feet high. It pro-
jects out from the western line of coast nearly a mile, and forms a kind of
double head. A short distance within the outer bluff is a peaked hill, with
the appearance of a light-coloured sandstone. It is quite bare of vegetation.
Further inland, between 1 and 2 miles, the ground rises higher in small
hummocks. A few of them are quite bare, and others have a small quantity
of stunted trees and bushes scattered over them. The head which forms the
West side of the Bay of Bamba is not so high, nor does it rise so suddenly
from the sea as Punta de Zipegua. It is also covered with bushes. The
eastern side of Punta de Zipegua is covered with bushes and stunted trees;
the sand only showing through the soil in very few places. When abreast
of it, and off shore from 2 to 8 miles, the current was running to windward,
W.S.W., from 2 to 3 miles per hour. About N.E., by compass, from the
Punta de Zipegua, and distant from 4 to 5 miles, is a high reef of rocks,
called Piedra de Zipegua, or Machaguista, in the chart, Island of Eschevan.
Its greatest elevation is from 60 to 70 feet; its length is about a third of a
mile, running in an E.S.E. and W.N.W. direction. It is said there are no
dangers near it but what can be seen. Between it and the main, from
which it is about 4 miles distant, in a N.W. direction, is good anchorage;
the best is close to the reef. The pearl oysters are plentiful near this reef;
they are caught by the divers in the rainy season. The general line of
coast from Punta de Zipegua toward Tehuantepec runs about N.E. by N.,
easterly.
The beach, or Playu de Bamba, is about 5 miles long, and must be very
bad to land on with a fresh sea-breeze. There was more surf on it when we
landed than was very agreeable. The boat was half filled, although the
wind was blowing along the coast.
The Morro Ayuca, or Ayuta, de Santiago de Ystapa, according to Masters.
Sir Edward Belcher places it in lat. 15° 51′ 56″ N., long. 95° 43′ 56″ W.,
considerably to the southward of the Spanish chart. It is a bold cliffy point,
surrounded by a reef, which has 3 and 4 fathoms close to it, and extending
on the northern side to about 1 cable's length, some of the rocks being
always visible. The bay, about 1 mile in extent, has a low sandy shore,
86
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
and vessels may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms, fine sand, at three-quarters of a
mile off, but only with northerly winds.
Near the Morro is the entrance of the small river of Ayuta, the stream
that runs by Haumilulu (hereafter alluded to) and Ystapa. There is a bar
runs across the entrance to it. The canoes land on the beach in preference
to going over it, as this is attended with danger.
A few miles to the westward is the Morro de la Laguna, near which is a
large lake, from which the headland takes its name.
The Bay of Rosario.-This name is not on the chart, but the following
description, and directions for it are by Captain Masters:-
The West side of the Bay of Rosario is formed by the Morro de las Salinas
de Rosario, and is in lat. 15° 50′ 25″ N., long. 96° 2′ W., by four sets of
lunars taken East and West of the moon. It projects about a mile beyond
the line of coast. On the western side is a beach 4 or 5 miles in length to
the next head. When abreast of Morro de las Salinas it appears like an
island with two large rocks abreast of its eastern and western part; but the
whole is connected to the main. What appears to be the eastern rock, is a
broken rocky head, about 160 feet high. The western is about half the
elevation. Both these heads terminate with a broken cliff; the tops of them
are bare, and of greyish colour; the lower part is quite black, caused by the
sea washing against them. Between these heads is a small sandy bay, which
is at the foot of the Morro, and rises gradually from the beach to the top of
the hill, and is about 180 to 200 feet high. It has a few straggling bushes
on it, but its general appearance is very barren. The beach of Rosario is
10 miles long from Morro de las Salinas to Morro de la Laguna Grande,
which is its eastern extremity. About half the distance between the Morros
is a rock on the beach, about 40 feet high, and nearly the same diameter; at
spring tides the water flows round it.
During the time of our lying in the Bay of Rosario, which was from the
12th of February to the 1st of April, we had three smart northers. These
came on at the full and change of the moon. At this time the surf runs very
heavy on the beach. Our boat was capsized several times whilst we lay
here, in landing and coming off. At times the sea broke very heavily in all
parts of the bay, that is, on the beach. I was caught on shore, a few days
after arriving here, during the first norther, which came on suddenly with a
parching hot wind. A cross, confused sea hove in from the South and N.E.
The wind must have blown strong out in the gulf, from the same direction,
and though it blew very heavily for three days, with the wind at times to
the westward of North, the sea kept up until some time after the norther
had ceased blowing. This is not generally the case, for a strong norther
(and in particular if it veers to N.N.W.) beats the sea down, at which time
landing is attended with little or no risk, which was the case when we had
the last two northers. I was informed (and judging from appearancs I think
BAY OF ROSARIO.
87
correctly) that very often when the wind is North, or N.N.W., close in
shore, it is N.E. in the offing, which makes it impossible to land on the coast.
I remarked whilst lying here, at the full and change of the moon, when no
norther was blowing, that although the surf ran so high that no boat could
land, the vessel lay without any motion. We were moored less than 300
fathoms from the shore. The surf appeared not to be caused by a swell
rolling in, and agitating the sea at the surface, but to rise from below, and
without any apparent cause, as we had light winds and fine weather the
most of the time we lay here. On another occasion I was caught on shore
with a boat's crew for three days. In attempting to get off to the ship, the
boat was capsized and stove. It was then, and had been for a week pre-
vious, nearly a calm. The heavy ground swell invariably hove in from the
S.S.W. We fortunately escaped from this beach without losing any of our
people, which was more than I expected, having had three laid up at dif-
ferent times, who were saved from being drowned by a mere chance.
In addition to what has already been said about this part of the coast, it
can be known by the low land at the back of the beach of Rosario. This
runs in from 1 to 2 leagues before there is much rise in it, and is thickly
covered with trees. From North to N.W. of Morro de las Salinas, nearly 2
leagues from the shore, the rising ground is formed by a number of small
barren hillocks. From our anchorage where we loaded at, the following
bearings were taken, lying in 2 fathoms water, sandy bottom. There are
two larger patches of a whitish appearance, the farthest range of the Cor-
dilleras, the eastern is also the lowest, and bore N. 591° W. The appear-
ance cannot be seen, unless from a little to the westward of Morro de las
Salinas. This has every appearance of being a waterfall, and rises from th
other patch in a N.W direction at about an angle of 45°. It issues from a
small valley in the Cerro del Chonga. The highest point of this range has
but a small elevation above it, and is covered with trees. The waterfall in-
clines towards the South, and can be seen for several hundred feet descend-
ing before it is lost sight of amidst the forest below. Cerro de Zadan bore
N. 89° W., and the extreme bluff of Morro de las Salinas, S. 36° W., 31
miles. The eastern point well within the bearings, and Punta de la Laguna
Grande, N. 71° E. 6 to 7 miles, and rock on the beach (already mentioned as
40 feet high), N. 65° E., and the galena or shed, under which the cargo was
piled, N. 26° W. half a mile; bearings by compass.
At the western part of the bay are four palm trees close to the beach. The
distance from the Morro de las Salinas is about half a mile, and between
these trees and the Morro is a larger cluster of palms. Between these two
clusters is at all times the best place to land, as a boat can beach here with
comparative safety, when at every other part of the bay the sea runs very
heavy. At the neaps we found the place quite smooth, with the exception
88
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
of a sea heaving in at about every 10 or 15 minutes; but it causes no risk to
a boat provided she is kept end on.
At the south-western part of the beach, and where a small pathway leads
to cross the Morro de Salinas, close to the sea-side, in the cliff of a rock, is a
small spring of excellent water. We always found it clear and cool, even at
noon; my consignee said we could fill the ship's stock of water from it with
dispatch, but I soon found out that he knew nothing about it. The quantity
that could be filled in a day did not exceed 30 gallons, and after having
landed all our water-casks we had to re-ship them, through a great deal of
surf, and land them at the galena abreast the ship. We filled our water at
a well about a mile from the beach, but the supply was very limited; it being
the only well that had water in it up to the day of our sailing. we did not
complete our stock.
A captain of a ship should trust to no promises when he comes here, either
with regard to supplies or anything else, no matter by whom made; and, as
water and fuel are indispensable articles, the filling the one, and cutting the
other, should be immediately commenced on their arrival by some of the
crew. It is useless to employ Indians to work for the ship (that is, on shore),
the greatest part of them will neither be led nor driven. On board they
answer better (that is, a few of them) to haul the wood about in the hold.
I found the promises of Indians, and, as they called themselves, "gente de-
cente y civilizado," on a par.
From the Bay of Rosario to the Island of Tangolatangola there are several
small headlands, which do not project much beyond the general line of coast,
with the exception of Morro de las Salinas de Rosario. Most of them have
a steep cliff facing the sea, with fine sandy beaches between them; at the
back of which are scattered a few small trees and bushes, the land rising in
very irregular shaped hills toward the Cordilleras. Abreast of the beaches,
between the heads, the anchorage is quite clear, and when in from 9 to 12
fathoms water the distance off shore is about a mile, with sandy bottom.
The Island of Tangolatangola is not shown on the charts. It is, however,
thus mentioned by Dampier.
"At the small high island of Tangola there is good anchorage. The island
is indifferently well furnished with wood and water, and lies about a league
from the shore. The main against the island is pretty high champion sa-
vannah land, by the sea; but 2 or 3 leagues within the land it is higher, and
very woody."
Capt. Masters describes it thus :-"The Island Tangolatangola is E.N.E.
3 miles from Guatulco, and is separated from the main by a channel a
quarter of a mile wide. This makes from the westward as a part of the
main land; the outer part of it is quite bluff, or rather a cliff of a brownish
stone, the strata of which is horizontal, and has the same geological appear-
ance as the land on the main nearest it to the N.E., and of the same height,
PORT GUATULCO.
89
namely, about 150 feet. Within the island, and round the western side, is
the entrance of the Bay of Tangolatangola; it runs in about N.E. 2 miles.
At the bottom of the bay is a fine sandy beach; the anchorage is said to be
very good in it, but not equal to Guatulco; its entrance is more than a mile
across, and continues nearly the same to the bottom."
The River Capalita, both according to Dampier and Malaspina's chart,
must fall into the sea hereabouts. Dampier says that it is rapid and deep
near its mouth.
PORT GUATULCO lies next along the coast, and is a very secure har-
bour. According to Sir Edward Belcher's survey of it in 1838, some islets
that lie off its mouth are in lat. 15° 44′ 25", and long. 96° 10′ W. Dampier's
clear and graphic account of it is as follows:-"Guatulco is one of the best
ports in all this kingdom of Mexico. Near a mile from the mouth of the
harbour, on the East side, there is a little island close by the shore; and on
the West side, half a mile from the mouth of the harbour, there is a great
hollow rock, which, by the continual working of the sea in and out, makes a
great noise, which may be heard a great way. Every surge that comes in
forceth the water out of a little hole on its top, as out of a pipe, from whence
it flies out just like the blowing of a whale; to which the Spaniards also
liken it. They call this rock and spout 'the buffadore' (bufadero, Spanish, a
roarer), upon what account I know not. Even in the calmest seasons the
sea beats in them, making the water spout at the hole, so that this is
always a good mark to find the harbour by.* This is also described by Mr.
Masters.
"The harbour runs in N.W., but the West side of the harbour is best to
ride in for small ships, for there you may ride land-locked, whereas any-
where else you are open to the S.W. winds, which often blow here. There
is good clean ground anywhere, and good gradual soundings from 16 to 6
fathoms; it is bounded by a smooth, sandy shore, very good to land at, and
at the bottom of the harbour there is a fine brook of fresh water running
into the sea. Here formerly stood a small Spanish town, or village, which
was taken by Sir Francis Drake; but now there is nothing remaining of it
*This description will also exactly apply to another of these singular phenomena, the
Souffleur (French, blower), at the South point of the Mauritius. Here the water is driven
up with enormous force to the height of 120 to 140 feet above the waves, and may be heard
a long distance. They are also seen too, at times, around the bases of icebergs, and there
was one, the Devil's Trumpet, on the coast of Cornwall. Other instances, less striking,
might be adduced of these singularities, which are well worthy of a seaman's attention,
showing, as they do, the power the waves exert, which, to raise such a column of water as
above mentioned, must be from 3 to 5 tons per square foot,
90
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
besides a little chapel standing among the trees, about 200 paces from the
cea.*
The following remarks, by Captain Masters, will complete the description ;
-Santa Cruz, Port of Aguatulco (Guatulco), is very difficult to make; it is
situated in a small bay about half a mile wide at its entrance, and runs in to
the northward upwards of one mile and a half. At the bottom of the bay is
a sandy beach; on its eastern part two huts are built, which cannot be seen
unless close in-shore. E.S.E. three-quarters of a mile from the eastern point
which forms the bay, is the Piedra Blanca. This is a reef of rocks extending
East and West about a quarter of a mile. The western part of the reef is
nearly 40 feet high; for about one-third of its length it is of the same eleva-
tion; the remaining two-thirds to the eastward is low, in places level with
the water. When abreast of it and off shore a few miles, it appears to be
a part of the coast. Although it is called Piedra Blanca, it is a dark irre-
gular shaped reef of rocks.
The anchorage in Guatulco is said to be good. It is well sheltered from all
winds, except between East and S.E. by S.; but, as the strongest winds blow
from the northward, except in the rainy season, it may be considered a very
safe port. It is the only place that can be considered a harbour to the east-
ward of Acapulco, and even in the rainy season, I was informed that a vessel
might lay there in perfect safety. The depth of water in the bay is from 7
to 9 fathoms, with a clear bottom.
When about 5 miles off the shore from the Bufadero, the western extreme
point of land has a broken rocky appearance, and is not so high as the land
adjoining. When about two leagues off shore from the Bufadero, another
cape further to the westward can be seen. Its extreme point is rather low,
but rises gradually inland to a moderate elevation.
To the westward of Santa Cruz are two bluff heads, which, when abreast
of them, might be taken for islands. The first is about 3 miles from the
port, the other is 2 miles further to the westward, and has a white sandy
beach, from which to the Bufadero the coast is rocky. The land which
crowns this part of the coast is covered with stunted trees and brushwood.
N. 81° W. (by compass) between 4 and 5 leagues, is the Cerro Zadan. Its
top is bell-shaped, and it has a ridge on its N.E. side, connecting it with
the higher range of the Cordilleras. The Cerro Zadan is elevated above
the sea rather more than 6,000 feet. The mountains further inland a few
leagues cannot be much short of 10,000 feet high, as they can be seen over
the Cerro Zadan.
* Guatulco seems to have been an unfortunate place during the buccaneering expeditions
against the Spaniards, for Sir Francis Drake sacked the place in 1574, and it was burnt in
1587 by Sir Thomas Cavendish, among other places. The reader will find many notices of
these and similar incidents in Admiral Burney's collection.
PUERTO ANGEL.
91
The Port of Guatulco is so bad to make that vessels have been upwards of
a fortnight in searching for it. It was by the greatest chance possible we
had not passed it, although we were not a mile and a half from the shore.
The two huts which were on the beach can scarcely be distinguished from the
trees near which they are built.
The coast beyond Guatulco trends a little to the South of West, for 20 or
30 leagues. At about a league West of Guatulco is a small green island
called Sacrificios, about half a mile long, and half a mile off the land. There
appears to be a fine bay to the West of the island, but it is full of rocks.
The best anchorage is between the island and the main, where the depth is
about 5 or 6 fathoms, sheltered from easterly winds. High water at 3h 15m.
The tide runs strongly, rising and falling 5 or 6 feet.
The land winds are here at North, and the sea breezes generally W.S.W.,
sometimes at S.W., with an easterly current.
Westward of Sacrificios the shore is all formed of sandy bays, the
country tolerably high and wooded, with an enormous swell tumbling in
on the shore.
PUERTO ANGEL, or Port Angeles, a new port, open to the foreign and
coasting trade, on February 1st, 1868, is 20 miles West of Sacrificios Island,
according to Bauza's chart. We have no recent particulars of it, but the fol-
lowing from old Dampier may be useful. It is a broad, open bay, with two
or three rocks on the West side. There is good anchorage all over the bay
in 30, 20, or 12 fathoms water, but you must lie open to all winds, except the
land winds, until you get into 12 or 13 fathoms; you will then be sheltered
from the W.S.W., which are the common trade winds. The tide rises about
5 feet; the flood setting to the N.E., and the ebb to the S.W. The landing
in the bay is bad, behind a few rocks; the swell is always very great. The
land bounding the harbour is tolerably high, the earth sandy and yellow, in
some places red. It is partly wooded, partly savannahs.
Eighteen miles westward of Port Angel is a small rocky island, half a
mile off shore. The coast is all small hills and valleys, and a great sea falls
upon the shore.
Near the Alcatras Rock (in long. 97° 30′ W., Malaspina), the land is mode-
rately high and wooded; farther within land it is mountainous. Five or six
miles to the West of the Alcatras are seven or eight white cliffs by the sea,
which are very remarkable, because there are none so white nor so close to-
gether on all the coast. There is a dangerous shoal lying S. by W. from
these cliffs, 4 or 5 miles off at sea. Two leagues to the West of these cliffs
there is a tolerably large river, which forms a small island at its mouth. The
eastern channel is shallow and sandy, but the western channel is deep enough
for canoes to enter.
Beyond what the chart affords, we have no information of the coast to the
westward. Several lagoons are marked.
92
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
Cuacaul Point is about 62 miles beyond Alcatraz Island, and is higher than
the sandy coast on either side of it. A shoal extends for 4 miles seaward of
it, having as little as 10 feet on it. H.M.S. Tartar struck on this shoal,
March 4th, 1863, and places it in lat. 16° 11′ N., long. 98° 32′ W. The ves-
sel's draught was 18 feet, but the least water obtained was 3 fathoms
(Capt. G. H. Richards.)
Off Cuacaul Point, from 2 to 3 miles distant, there is anchorage in 8 or 10
fathoms, sheltered from the S. W. by the shoal.
The River Dulce is 12 miles N.W. of Cuacaul Point; the Clio Rock lies 3
miles off it, 3 miles from shore, with 6 fathoms around it.
ACAPULCO.
This celebrated seaport has sadly fallen from the high position it once held
among the places of commercial importance in the world. It owed all its
prosperity to the system pursued by the Spanish colonial policy, and, when
that power became annihilated in the new world, Acapulco descended, not to
its level as a harbour, for it is one of the finest in the world, but to that of the
capability of the surrounding country in supporting it. This, as is well known,
is very limited, and the foreign trade that it has across the Pacific is of very
minor importance.
In addition to the changes in its external relations, it has some very serious
drawbacks to any permanent prosperity. The climate is extremely hot, and
pernicious to European constitutions. This is increased by the proximity of
a marshy tract to the East of the town. During the dry season this marsh
dries up, and occasions the death of great quantities of small fish, whose
decay under a tropical sun produces no ordinary amount of pestilential va-
pours to be diffused, a fruitful source of the putrid bilious fevers so prevalent
here and in the vicinity.
Being entirely surrounded with high mountains, the sun has intense power
and the usual breezes are in a measure intercepted. To remedy this, an arti-
ficial cut was made through the chain of rocks which surrounded the town;
this has caused a freer circulation of air.
It has been well surveyed, and the plan from the united observations of Sir
Edward Belcher and M. de Tessan, the Hydrographical Engineer to the ex-
pedition of Admiral Du Petit Thouars, in the Venus, with later, will give a
perfect idea of the port.
It consists principally of one extensive basin, in an angle of which, on
the N.W. side, stands the town. At its head are some whitish rocks, the
Piedras Brancas, useful as marks in entering. There are two entrances,
formed by Roqueta or Grifo Island. That to the North of it is called the Boca
Chica or Little Entrance, and is narrow. The principal entrance is between
ACAPULCO.
93
the South point of Grifo (Siclata Point) and the S.E. point (Bruja Point) of
the harbour, and is above 1 miles in width. It is quite clear.
Eastward from Bruja Point is Port Marques, extending 21 miles E.S.E.
Its S.W. point is named Diamante Point. This bay, too, is quite clear.
Earthquakes are a great scourge to Acapulco, and must prevent its ever
becoming a substantial town; at present it is poor and mean. Besides the
earthquakes, the heaviest of which occur between March and June, the rainy
season is also another great drawback, and is felt here severely. It com-
mences about the middle or end of July, and continues until the end of Oc-
tober. Owing to the immediate vicinity of a very lofty chain overlooking the
town (one of 2,790 feet), the fall is heavy and almost incessant. It has been
asserted that, in 1837, the rain gauge frequently indicated 28 inches in 24
hours. During this period the inhabitants are compelled to use every pre-
caution to keep their houses dry, particularly under foot; a neglect of this is
supposed to produce fever. The heat during this period is excessively op-
pressive, especially in May, when the temperature seldom falls below 98°.
Water then becomes scarce, and, towards the end of the dry season, the ponds
run dry, and wells are their only resource.-(Sir E. Belcher.)
The entrance into Acapulco lies about midway between the East and West
extremes of a high portion of the coast, which stands forward in a very pro-
minent way to the southward of the rest of the coast; the centre part is the
highest, probably about 3,000 feet above the sea.
Both ends run off to bluff points; the eastern one is called Point Bruja,
and is distinguishable by its presenting a set of steep white cliffs; it is suc-
ceeded on the eastern side by a long line of white sandy beach, backed by a
lower range of country, which reaches to the foot of the hills.
The entrance of the harbour, when bearing North, has Point Bruja on the
East, and a small promontory on the West, not unlike each other, and both
having white cliffs.
The entrance may also be distinguished by a remarkable white rock, the
Farallon del Obispo, 148 feet high, which lies nearly abreast of the middle part
of the white beach at the bottom of the Bay of Acapulco; this may be seen
with ease at the distance of 3 or 4 leagues, when it bears on any point of
the compass
between N. W. and N.N.E. E. by compass; in other cases
it is shut in, either by the land near Port Marques, or by the Island of Grifo,
off the entrance.
Port Marques, an inlet 12 mile in depth, lies to the S.E. of Point Bruja;
its entrance between that and Diamante Point to S.E. of it, is nearly a mile
wide. It is not easily made out till within a couple of leagues. In the en-
trance the depths are 18 to 20 fathoms, the shores quite bold-to, and in the
inner basin from 10 to 15 fathoms, but near its head, within the depth of 5
fathoms, is a sunken rock.
Grifo, or Roqueta Island, is nearly 1 mile West of Point Bruja, that
:
94
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
being the width of the Boca Grande. A fixed light is said to be shown from
this island, which may be seen 5 miles off. At its N.E. end is a smaller
island, 50 feet in height, called El Morro; and at a quarter of a mile East of
this is a small rock, which is only 4 feet above high water. This should be
looked after if you enter either by the Boca Chica or the Great Entrance.
Point Grifo, which is three-quarters of a mile N. by E. from the Morro
Rock, is the S.E. point of an inner bay, called Santa Lucia Bay, on the North
side of which is the town of Acapulco. A light is said to be shown from the
point when the steamers, in connection with the Panama Railway service,
are due.
There are no dangers in Acapulco Harbour, except the Serieuse Shoal, of 21
fathoms, close to the North side of the harbour, half a mile E.N.E. from the
Castle of San Diego, and nearer the shore than any ship would think of going.
There can be no difficulty in making out the situation of this harbour, when
it is understood that its latitude is 16° 50′ N., and that it is pointed out by a
lofty promontory, which maintains its height and abruptness to the very sea,
without any low land; this high land is covered with trees or shrubs, and
everywhere presents a green surface, except where it meets the sea, and then
its face is laid bare, and shows only naked white or gray cliffs of granite, not
of a massy character, but splintered in all directions.
The anchorage is abreast of the town in the western corner of the bay,
near two white rocks, to one of which a hawser may be made fast, and the
ship canted to the sea breeze. There is a remarkable high land considerably
to the eastward, and much further inland than the promontory of Acapulco,
having a long tabular top, which rises considerably above the neighbouring
peaks. But there is no difficulty in distinguishing this promontory, when
coming along shore from the eastward, as it is the first high coast land
which reaches to the sea, and terminating a line of low white beach. On
the western side, the coast line is high, and offers such a variety of forms
and heights, that it may not be easy to distinguish the high land of Aca-
pulco, or rather a stranger might perhaps mistake some other part of the
coast for it.
The paps of Coyuca are the marks generally pointed out as affording the
means of distinguishing the land; they lie some leagues to the westward or
W.N.W. of the promontory of Acapulco, and might be better described, I
think, as a castle or fort-like mountain, than as paps. There is first a very
abrupt precipice facing the West, with a surface somewhat tabular, but not
quite level; the top being nearly equal, in horizontal length, to what the
cliff is in abrupt height; then there is a nick or gully which is succeeded
by a flat peak, not very unlike a pap. After this there is a long hog-backed
ridge, with an irregular peaked termination at the eastern end. The land
between this and Acapulco sinks considerably, and though it still remains a
tolerable height, the promontory is always sufficiently conspicuous.
ACAPULCO.
95
When its extreme South point bears about East, and indeed when it bears
considerably to the northward of East, there is no high land to be seen beyond
it to the eastward.
At the distance of 7 or 8 leagues the land about Point Bruja makes like
an island. (Basil Hall.)
Sir Edward Belcher says (January 12, 1838):-"We made the high paps
of Coyuca, to the westward of Acapulco; but I cannot persuade myself that
they are good landmarks for making the port. In the offing they may be
useful if not obscured.
Acapulco may be approached from the southward or westward, by keeping
the western cone open of the land, which will lead up to the Boca Chica en-
trance, or until Acapulco port is so close under the lee, that no further marks.
are necessary. There is not any hidden danger in the entrance to Acapulco.
Keep a moderate distance from either shore; 5 fathoms will be found along-
side all the rocks, and 25 to 30 in mid-channel. Round Point Grifo sharp,
rather than stand over to San Lorenzo, as the wind, generally westerly, heads
on that shore. If working, tack when the rocks on the South point of Tower
Bay show in the gap.
The two best berths are off the rocks alluded to; that outside is prefer-
able; but in either case let the outer rock bear W.S.W. or W.N.W., so that
a hawser fast to the rock may keep your broadside to land or sea breezes, and
prevent a foul anchor.
The Harbour of Acapulco has long been reckoned, for its size, one of the
most complete in the world. It affords sheltered, land-locked anchorage of
16 fathoms and under, in a surface of one mile square; which, allowing for
moorings, would, at half a cable's range, or one cable asunder, accommodate
100 sail of vessels, even of the line. The bottom is sandy at its surface, but
clayey beneath, and holds well.
It would naturally be inferred that, surrounded on its North and East
sides by mountains ranging from 2,000 to 2,700 feet, and by others of 300
to 500 feet on the West, the breeze would scarcely be felt, and the heat
be intolerable. This is confined to the town limits. At our observatory
(Captain Belcher's), and the port, San Carlos, we enjoyed a constant
breeze.
In all harbours there may be objectionable berths, but in that of Acapulco,
if care be taken to keep in the line of what I have designated "West Gap,"
or neck of the peninsula open of the South point of the town bay, both land
and sea breezes will be felt in their full strength, and free from causes which
would heat them before entering the port, the neck being but a few feet
above the sea level.
Water of good quality was found at several points between the fort
and Obispo Rock; but the two best streams are between the fort and San
Lorenzo.
96
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
Captain G. H. Richards, R.N., the present hydrographer, surveyed a part
of the coast to the westward, in H.M.S. Hecate, in 1863, and he has given the
following:-In approaching from the westward the Paps of Coyuca are a
good guide; they are two distinct conical summits, and the mountain is about
4,000 feet high; it lies N.W. by N. nearly 30 miles from Acapulco, and 20
from the coast. The land westward of Acapulco is high. At the distance of
10 or 12 miles from the coast two distinct ranges are seen; the nearer one
about 2,500 feet high; and the more distant one, of which the Paps form a
portion, over 4,000 feet. When the Paps of Coyuca bear N. by E. E., a
red stripe, or land-slip will be seen on the coast right under them. A square
table-topped mountain rises just westward of Acapulco, to between 2,000 and
3,000 feet. When within 8 or 10 miles of the port, Roqueta Island is seen,
which has a high, yellow, cliffy coast, as also the point of the main land
northward, forming the entrance of the Boca Chica.
Diamante Point, which appears as the eastern extreme of the land, shows
as an island at the distance of 7 or 8 miles; the head of Port Marques, of
which it forms the South point of entrance, being low. Making Acapulco,
from the S.W. or southward, the entrance is remarkable, from the yellowish
cliffs of Diamante Point, and Roqueta Island which may be seen at a consi-
derable distance.
appears cut off.
The Paps of Coyuca are also seen, but the eastern peak
There is also a white wooden tower on the summit of Ro-
queta Island, which is used for a lighthouse, and seen 6 or 7 miles off. The
light is only exhibited when the Pacific Mail Steam Company's vessels are
expected.
The coast to the West of Acapulco is low, and formed by what is called the
beaches of Coyuca. The swell sets so strongly upon this long, shallow, sandy
bay to the West, that it is impossible to get near it in a boat or canoe;
yet it is good clean ground, and good anchorage a mile or two from the
shore. The land near the sea is low, and moderately fertile, producing
spreading palms and other trees, which grow in clumps all along this
bay. The land-wind here is generally from the N.E., and the sea-breezes
from S.W.
The Paps of Coyuca, serviceable as a mark for approaching Acapulco,
have been before noticed. They are remarkable, and may be readily distin-
guished, as Capt. Belcher says, "when not obscured." According to the
Spanish chart, they are in lat. 17° 6′ N., long. 100° W.
Having arrived at Point Jequepa (or Tequepa), the coast trends rather more
northerly, and at about 20 leagues is the Morro de Petatlan, a high mountain,
which may be known by the islands which surround it.
"The hill of Petaplan (Petatlan) is a round point stretching out into the
sea, appearing at a distance like an island. A little to the West of this
hill are several round rocks." Dampier anchored on the N.W. side of the
PORT SIHUANTANEJO.
97
hill, passing inside of these rocks, between them and the round point, where
he had 11 fathoms water.
Between this point and several white islands, is the small port of Siguanta-
nejo, or Sihuantanejo.
PORT SIHUANTANEJO has been surveyed by Captain Kellett, R.N.,
1847, and from his plan it would appear to be an excellent harbour, but open
to the S.W. There is no hidden danger going in, and the entrance is suffi-
ciently marked by the bold coast to require no directions. The position of
the observations at the head of the port, Captain Kellett places in lat.
17° 38′ 3″ N., long. 101° 30′ 52" W.
Dampier passed along this coast, and says-" About 2 leagues West from
Petaplan is Chequetan (Sihuantanejo ?). At 1 miles from the shore is a
small bay, and within it is a very good harbour, where ships may careen;
there is also a small river of fresh water, and sufficient wood."
He landed at a place he calls Estapa, a league to the West of Sihuantanejo
and taking a mulatto woman for his guide, his companions plundered the
unfortunate Acapulco carrier.
To the West of Estapa, Dampier says the land is high, and full of ragged
hills; and West from these ragged hills the land makes many pleasant and
fertile valleys among the mountains.
All this coast is lined with villages and salt-works (salines), worked by the
inhabitants. The approach to the coast is clear, but there is no safe anchor-
age, and there is not a single important river. That of Sacatula or Zaca-
tula, which comes from the Volcan de Jorullo, as also the Rios Camuta and
Coalcaman, are not navigable. Captain G. H. Richards says that it must be
a very small one, for nothing of the kind could be made out from the mast-
head at the distance of 13 mile.
Mangrove Bluff, a low, but well-defined point, in lat. 17° 54' 5" N., long.
102° 12′ 41″ W., is the western extreme of a deep bay, at the head of which
the Canuta or Salt-pits are marked in the old chart, and is near where the
Sacatula River is said to be.
From Mangrove Bluff the coast trends W. by N. N., nearly straight,
with no remarkable feature for a distance of 60 miles to Lizard Point, which
is low and cliffy.
Soundings. At the distance of 8 miles eastward of Lizard Point there are
from 35 to 40 fathoms, at 3 miles from the shore, which continue until ap-
proaching Mangrove Bluff; and, singularly enough, at the distance of 3
miles to the westward of it, and scarcely 2 from the beach, there are 132
fathoms, mud bottom.
Immediately South of the bluff, and nearly 2 miles from it, there are only
14 fathoms, shingle bottom; and the same depth, or less, continues for 3 or
4 miles to the eastward, parallel with and at the same distance from the coast,
when the water suddenly deepens.
North Pacific.
甘
​98
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
A high and very remarkable mountain rises over the East side of the Salt
Pit Bay, and the isles Blancos shown on the chart are very conspicuous ob-
jects. They are three white islets or rocks, the easternmost being the largest,
square, and something like a haystack in shape.
Tejupan Bluff is 26 miles W. by N. N. from Lizard Point, the coast be-
tween being generally steep, and rising somewhat abruptly to 2,000 feet.
At 10 miles eastward of Tejupan is the only remarkable intermediate point.
Three white rocks lie off it, in an E.S.E. direction, and a sandy bight is
formed to the westward. Inside them, there is a fertile-looking spot, with a
village, and probably landing, and shelter for boats.
The bluff is bold and cliffy, with two small rocky islets off it. Anchorage
in 16 fathoms was found 7 miles south-eastward of the head, a mile from the
shore. The hills rise in successive ranges parallel with the coast to the
westward, the nearer ones from 1,500 to 2,000 feet high, the more distant
much higher.
The Paps of Tejupan, a mountain 5,860 feet high, with a double nipple
summit, lie 21 miles E.N.E. from the bluff of the same name, and although
remarkable in passing up or down the coast, would scarcely be so from sea-
ward, in consequence of the back ranges rising to a greater elevation.
Colima Mountain, 12,000 feet high, and 15 miles inland, is visible from this
part of the coast, and very remarkable when seen distinctly; but the haze,
which generally hangs over the distant land, renders this seldom the case,
and it therefore cannot be counted upon as a land mark. It is a saddle-
shaped mountain. The two sharp conical summits, apparently near the same
height, and the horizontal measurement between them from off Tejupan
Bluff is 45 miles.
Black Head is 18 miles N.N.W. from Tejupan Bluff, the coast between
being composed alternately of sandy beach and high cliff. Black Head is
a cliffy peninsula, lat. 18° 36′ 18″ N., long. 103° 41′ 51″ W., which is con-
nected to the shore by a sandy neck. A small white rock lies half a mile
N.W. of the northern extreme of the peninsula, and a bay is formed to the
northward of the rock, where there is anchorage in fine weather in 14 fa-
thoms water, 1½ mile off shore.
MANZANILLA was visited by Sir Edward Belcher in 1838, and by Capt.
G. H. Richards in 1863. The bay (or harbour) is about 5 miles wide, and
is divided into two bays on the North side by a Punta de la Audiencia. The
bay to the East is Manzanilla, and that to the West Santiago, and in this is
the best watering place.
The bay is small but safe, the anchorage is good, the water brackish.
There are no houses; men and families living exposed under the trees; and
had not the Leonora (an English bark, then at anchor) been there, it is pro-
bable that we should not have seen a soul.-Sir E. Belcher, 1838.
The port is well protected against the southerly winds prevalent during
mer.
MANZANILLA.
99
the rainy season; but, on account of a very considerable lake of stagnant
water in its immediate neighbourhood, it is very unhealthy during the sum-
Infested by myriads of mosquitoes and sand flies, even in the dry
season, it is nearly impossible to reside there. It has been open to foreign
countries for several years, but has not been able to make much progress.
The port itself has not a single house, and the first adjacent town is Colima,
formerly the capital of the territory bearing the same name, now embodied
with the department of Michoacan.
Captain G. H. Richards gives the following account of it :-
The White Islet, or Piedra Blanca of Manzanilla, lies off the eastern extreme
of the sandy beach which runs in almost a straight line for 13 miles from
Cape Graham, at a mile from the shore. It is a quarter of a mile long and
300 feet high, wedge-shaped when seen from the westward, and remarkably
white, being the resort of numerous sea birds. This islet is the mark for
Manzanilla Bay, and may be seen from the westward immediately on round-
ing Navidad Head, a distance of nearly 20 miles; it then appears just
inside the extreme of the land. It can be seen easily from a vessel's deck
at a distance of 15 miles, when bearing from E. S., round by North to
W.N.W.
Manzanilla Bay is known by this white islet 24 miles westward of its West
point of entrance. A high rock lies close off this point; and another white
rock, resembling a sail, at a quarter of a mile off the eastern point. From
the westward they are both remarkable. Approaching Manzanilla from the
westward, the Vigia Grande, a remarkable cone-shaped hill, will also be seen
just inside the sail rock. It is 740 feet high, and rises immediately over the
anchorage. As neither the houses nor shipping can be seen from sea-
ward, this is a good mark to steer for, passing from 1 to 2 miles out-
side the White Islet, and the same distance from the West point of
entrance, when the Vigia Grande will bear E. N., and may be steered
1
for.
This course will lead more than a mile southward of or outside the Sisters,
a group of five rocks, the largest of which is 10 feet high. They lie in a di-
rect line between the West point of entrance and the Vigia Grande, distant
from the former 22 miles. A very remarkable table-topped mountain, 2,600
feet high, rises oyer the western point of the bay, and is an excellent guide
for the port. The anchorage is immediately under the Vigia Grande, about
one-third of a mile from the village, in 9 or 10 fathoms water; over mud and
good holding ground. Manzanilla (West end of village), lat. 19° 3′ 13″ N.,
long. 104° 17′ 41″ W.
The bay is safe with all winds except gales from West or S.W., which do
not occur between the months of November and June-the dry season, and
singularly enough, the least healthy; fevers and ague prevail, more or less,
at all times, but are more fatal during the dry season. It is not recom-
H2
100
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
mended to lie here more than four or five days at a time, and to take an off-
shore berth, where the sea breeze will reach.
Supplies.-Fresh beef and vegetables, as well as other necessaries, can be
obtained here. Fresh water should on no account be received on board, and
it is desirable that the crews of vessels should land as seldom as possible, nor
be exposed in boats when avoidable.
Water of tolerable quality may be got from a small brook across the bay,
about N.W. from the anchorage. For the purpose of procuring it choose, if
possible, a very calm day. Stow the casks to be filled in the long boat, or
launch and anchor it near the brook at the back of the surf. Hire a canoe
to land the casks, with some iron-bound hogsheads, which are to be rolled
across the strand to the brook, and then filled, which done, haul them with
a running line to the boat, and fill the casks.
The tide occurs every twenty-four hours, the flood in the morning and the
ebb in the evening. It rises about 7 feet, and the current runs to the
South. Good pearls, &c., may be had.
Manzanilla is about 20 or 30 leagues' distance from the city of Colima, the
capital of the territory of that name. Except frequent earthquakes and
goitres, with which the inhabitants are affected, there is nothing remarkable
in the city, which contains about 30,000 inhabitants, wholly occupied in
agriculture and commerce.-Duflot de Mofras.
At 8 leagues to the E.N.E. is the Volcan de Colima, before mentioned, the
westernmost of the Mexican group. Its entire height is 12,003 feet; it is in
activity, and sulphureous vapours, cinders, and stones are emitted; but it has
not discharged any lava for a long period. The diameter of its crater is 500
feet, and its mouth is perpendicular. The flanks of the mountains are barren
and cliffy. The sulphur on it is of a bad quality. At a league North of the
volcano there is an extinct crater, which exceeds the former in elevation by
710 feet, and the height of which above the port is 12,713 feet. Its summit
is covered with snow, and it may be seen at very great distances at sea, and
offers, when the sky is clear, an excellent point of recognition for navigators
approaching Manzanilla.
The valley in which Colima is situated seems to be formed of volcanic pro-
ducts and decomposed lava. The vegetation consists of palms, aloes, and
superb orange trees. Above the usual level these tropical plants are replaced
by forests of sombre pines.
From 2 miles beyond the West point of Manzanilla Bay to Cape Graham,
an almost straight sandy beach extends in a W. by N. direction for 13 miles,
the coast being from 15 to 20 feet high; the long lagoon lies immediately
behind, and beyond again the land rises in distinct ranges to between 3,000
and 4,000 feet.
Between Navidad and Manzanilla, during the fine season, boats may gene-
NAVIDAD BAY.
101
rally land on the beach, and there is safe anchorage half a mile from the
shore in 18 fathoms.
NAVIDAD BAY.-After rounding Navidad Head from the northward, at
the distance of 2 miles, the white sandy beach of Navidad Bay will be seen,
bearing E. by N., distant 7 miles. Cape Graham, the East point of the bay,
700 feet high, has a high peaked rock close off it, as well as a smaller one,
which, however, do not show as detached from any position a vessel would be
in. There is also a small rock, 6 feet above high water, which bears from
the
cape S.W., distant half a mile. At 2 miles off the white rock of Navidad ·
there are 60 fathoms water, and steering for the anchorage it gradually
shoals to 40 and 30 fathoms. Navidad Bay, North Beach, lat. 19° 13′ N.,
long. 104° 41′ 25″ W.
As the bay is approached, Harbour Point, a very remarkable high white
point, will be seen on the northern shore; immediately round and inside it
is the anchorage, a very fair stopping place during the fine season, but it is
not recommended for a sailing vessel at other times, as there is a difficulty
in getting out with a S.W. wind. The best berth is in 7 fathoms water,
sandy bottom, with Harbour Point bearing S.S.W. a quarter of a mile, and
the same distance from the eastern shore of the bay. Sailing vessels may
anchor farther out, with the point bearing West, in 10 and 11 fathoms, but
there will be more swell.
A single house stands in the North hook of the bay, and a lagoon within
a few yards of the beach, where the water is fresh, and the natives say good,
but it is not recommended to use it unless a vessel is in distress. At the S.E.
end of the bay is the N.W. end of a long lagoon which here opens into the
sea; a strong stream runs out of it, and there is sufficient depth for boats at
half tide. There is a small village here, and some supplies of fresh pro-
yisions may be obtained. The anchorage off this end of the bay is not re-
commended.
Navidad Head is 7 miles westward of Navidad Bay. It is a wedge-
shaped summit, about 400 feet high, falling in shore to a low neck, and is
remarkable when seen from any direction. On approaching it, within 3 or
4 miles, it is seen to be an island, separated from the main by a low rocky
ledge, which the water rises over. Off the head are three remarkable rocks,
extending in a S.W. direction; the centre one being white, with a smooth
round top, covered with vegetation, and about 70 feet high. These rocks
give the head some slight resemblance to Farralone Point, with the
Frailes Rocks, when seen from the N.W.; but the peculiar shape of the
Wedge Island would prevent the possibility of a mistake after the first glance.
The white rock of Navidad has been mistaken for the white islet of Man-
zanilla by strangers, and accidents have occurred in consequence, but this
mistake could only have arisen in the absence of any chart. The Navidad
Rock is small, the centre of three, and stands off a prominent headland,
102
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
The white islet of Manzanilla, 20 miles to the south-eastward, is very much
larger, remarkably white, and stands alone, a mile from shore, but, being
rather in a bight, cannot be seen projecting from any position a vessel would
be in. Besides the three high rocks off Navidad Head, there is a sunken
one, which occasionally breaks, and lies S.E. E. from the white rock, dis-
tant a short mile.
Tenacatita Bay is 5 miles wide from Navidad Head, its S.E. point, to
Brothers Point, its N.W. extreme. The latter has a rather remarkable
double hill rising immediately over it, which from the northward appears
like an island. Off the point is a high, square, perpendicular rock, and some
smaller ones about it above water; there are also some off-lying dangers to
be avoided.
Porpoise Rock, 7 feet high, lies 1 miles W. by S. from Brothers Point,
and a breaking rock lies S.E. by S. 3 cables from the same point. The bay
is spacious, and is more than 2 miles deep, and there is said to be good an-
chorage in its N.W. corner, well protected, with the wind from that quarter.
It should, however, he entered with caution, as it has not been examined.
A berth of 2 miles should be given to Brothers Point. One or two rocks
were observed in the N.W. part of the bay.
The Frailes, two needle-shaped rocks, from 80 to 100 feet high, lie 6 miles
north-westward of Brothers Point, and the same distance south-eastward of
Farralone Point, which is low and projecting. They are at half a mile from
the shore.
Flat Top Point is 8 miles north-westward of Farallone Port. Over this
point, the South extreme of Perula Bay, rises a remarkable flat-topped
mountain, 1,100 feet high, which is very conspicuous from the northward and
westward.
PERULA BAY, a spacious and convenient anchorage, is 60 miles south-
eastward of Cape Corrientes. It is easily recognised from any direction by
two islands, which lie in the centre of it; the northernmost of which, Pas-
sarera, 130 feet high, is remarkable from its perpendicular white cliffs which
are seen from a long distance. Perula Bay (Observation Cove), lat. 19° 34′
31" N., long. 105° 6' 33" W.
Colorado, the southern island, is rather low, and has a slightly reddish
appearance. The best anchorage is in the northern part of the bay.
The entrance is between Rivas Point, the north-west extreme, and Pas-
sarera Island, and is a mile in breadth. The depth of water from 15 to
18 fathoms.
Rivas Point is bold and cliffy, with some detached rocks a cable and a half
off it, the outer one 30 feet high. From this rock a reef, 2 feet above high
water, and on which the sea always breaks, lies East, distant 1½ cable, with
deep water close to it. There is anchorage anywhere within a line between
Rivas Point and Passarera Island, in from 10 to 14 fathoms water, but the
CAPE CORRIENTES.
103
most sheltered is with the high rock off Rivas Point, bearing S.W. by S.,
distant about half a mile, or midway between it and the sandy beach on the
eastern side of the bay, where there are 4 and 5 fathoms at a cable and a
half from the beach. Small vessels may anchor in the northern bight of the
bay, and be more out of the swell.
At the south-east end of the bay, nearly 4 miles from Rivas Point, is the
village of Chamela. Vessels wishing to anchor near it should enter between.
Colorado Island and the small islands to the south-east of it. This channel
is two-thirds of a mile wide, and free from danger. Large vessels may an-
chor in 8 fathoms, with the South point of Colorado Island bearing S.W. by
W., and the village of Chamela just open of San Pedro Island, midway be-
tween the island and the shore of the bay. Small vessels may anchor in 4
fathoms inside Cocino Island, where they will be two-thirds of a mile from
the village. Inside this it shoals rapidly, and off the village there is only a
fathom of water.
From Passarera Island a bar extends to the opposite sandy point of the
bay, distant two-thirds of a mile. The least depth of water on it is 3
fathoms, so that vessels of greater draught cannot pass from the northern
anchorage to the southern part of the bay, but must go outside the
islands. The bottom is sandy, but good holding ground. During the
fine season, from November till June, the sea breeze from N.W. is regular
during the day, and the land wind at night, and the anchorage is perfectly
safe; but with S.W. or S.E. winds a heavy swell sets in every part of
the bay.
Supplies of fresh beef, pumpkins, and water-melons, may be had at the
village, by giving a day's notice; there is also good water from a stream
close to it. Dye-wood is exported, but of an inferior quality.
Immediately southward of the cape a sandy beach commences, the general
features inland being conical peaks. Soundings are obtained 4 miles South
of the cape, and at the distance of 3 miles from the shore, in from 45 to 55
fathoms, and whenever a sandy beach line is observed, 19 or 20 fathoms
water will generally be found within a mile of it, where vessels may anchor
if necessary; but the coast is not considered safe between June and the end
of November, during which time S.E. and S.W. gales are prevalent, bring-
ing in a heavy sea.
CAPE CORRIENTES, a bold and lofty headland, with rather a flat sum-
mit, rises to between 2,000 and 3,000 feet. From the northward and west-
ward it is not remarkable, but from the southward it is bold and projecting
There are no dangers off it, and soundings were not obtained with 106 fa-
thoms, at 4 miles West of it. Cape Corrientes, extreme, lat. 20° 25′ N.,
long. 105° 39′ 21″ W.*
* RICHMOND ROсks, laid down in the charts at 8 miles W.S.W., or 13 miles W. 2 S.
104
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
Between Cape Corrientes and Manzanilla there are the three little-
frequented anchorages of Guatlan, Navidad, and Tamatlan.
The cape is a bold and well-characterised promontory, jutting far into the
sea, with a tolerably straight sky line, broken here and there by ravines and
small peaks. It is everywhere clad with underwood to the top, and has the
appearance of being a safe, bold shore. Sandy beaches were noticed at
different places, but in general the cliffs appear to be washed by the sea.
Beyond Cape Corrientes, which all ships from the South should make in
going to San Blas, is the great Bay of Ameca and the Valle de Banderas, 12
or 15 leagues in extent, where foreign ships sometimes take in the Brazil-
wood, with which the country abounds.
Point Mita, a narrow projecting point, is the N.W. point of Valle de Ban-
deras Bay, and is 24 miles N.N.E. There are some rocks off Point Mita, to
the eastward of which there is anchorage in the northern part of the bay in
8 fathoms.
In front, and at 4 miles S.S.W. of Point Mita lie, nearly on the same
parallel, the three small islands Las Marietas, and a fourth, to the West,
called La Corvetana. This group being only a degree distant from that of
the Tres Marias, presently described, should be carefully made, in order to
prevent any error.
The Marietas are surrounded by numerous rocks, the westernmost is 6
miles distant, and is rocky on the western side.
La Corvetana is a bare rock, 25 feet high, in lat. 20° 44' N., long. 105° 46'.
It is of small extent, not larger than a ship's hull, and when seen from
southward appears in three summits. The water seems to be deep around
it, and it lies 20 miles N.W. N. from Cape Corrientes.
The coast beyond Point Mita retires a little, trending first 8 miles to the
eastward, and then N. E. for 34 miles to the entrance of the river Custo-
dios. In the interval are met with, after Point Tecusitan, the anchorages of
Chacala and Matanchel, to the South of the small Cape Los Custodios, which
marks the South entrance to San Blas.
The TRES MARIAS lie 70 miles to the north-westward of Cape Corri-
entes. They were discovered by Mendoza in 1532, and often served in after
years, as a refuge to pirates and the buccaneers who scoured these coasts.
Dampier was here in 1686, and he says,-" I had been for a long time sick
of a dropsy, a distemper whereof, as I said before, many of our men died;
so here I was laid and covered all but my head in the hot sand. I endured
it near half an hour, and then was taken out and laid to sweat in a tent.
I did sweat exceedingly while I was in the sand, and I do believe it did me
from the cape, from the report of Captain S. Richmond, 1855, are believed not to
exist. The natives and others employed in the coasting trade for many years assert that
there is no such rock.
TRES MARIAS ISLANDS.
105
much good, for I grew well soon after."-Vol. i. p. 276. A very singular
sand bath.
The group properly consists of four islands. The southernmost is Cleopha;
it is 3 miles long E. and W., and 2 miles broad. It has some rocks off its
N.E. point, and some islets off its West end.
Magdalena is 8 miles long, and to the S.W. it has several detached islets
and rocks. In the middle of the North shore the land slopes from the sum-
mit to a level sandy beach. It is thickly wooded, and about the same height
as the chief island, to the northward of it.
Maria Madre or St. George is 11 miles long N.W. and S.E. Its highest
point is toward the South, and may be seen 50 miles off. From this point
it gradually declines in elevation to its low N.W. extremity.
San Juanito, the northernmost of the group, is a low island, about 2 miles
long, and has off its N.W. point a remarkable steep white cliffy rock, re-
sembling the S.W. side of the island of Maria Madre. This side only has
been surveyed, and it terminates on the S.W. in a low projecting point.
On either side of the point is a small bay, which afford shelter against the
prevailing wind, protected by a sandy and rocky beach, which projects from
the South point of Maria Madre.
They were surveyed by Captain Beechey, whose directions, in connexion.
with those for San Blas, are given below. Sir Edward Belcher also visited
them in 1838, and he says:
"There is nothing inviting in either of the Marias. In the rainy season
water may flow, but from what I witnessed of the channels through which it
must pass, they should be well cleansed by floods before it would be fit for
consumption. What remained in the natural tanks was sulphureous and
brackish, although far above the influence of the sea, and formed by a strong
infusion of decayed leaves. By tracks observed, turtle appeared to have.
visited the island lately, but none were seen or taken. Wood is plentiful,
particularly a species of lignum vitæ. Cedar, of the coarse species, used for
canoes, we met with, but none of the fine grain.
Fish appear to be numerous, particularly sharks. The capricious character
of the ocean about these islands renders visits at any time hazardous, as a
few moments may imprison the naturalist for weeks. Ten years since, nearly
to a day, I found landing on any part of these shores impracticable, although
the weather previously had been fine.
Here Vancouver tried ineffectually for water, and I was induced, by the
assertion of a master of a vessel belonging to San Blas, that wells were sunk
and good water conveniently to be had, to make this examination. It is
not improbable that if wells were sunk water could be obtained; but is the
result worth the trouble or risk? *
* The channel between the two North islands (Magdalena and Maria Madre (Tres
106
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
There is nothing to make it desirable for a vessel to anchor at these
islands. Upon Prince George's Island there is said to be water of a bad
description; but the landing is in general very hazardous.
There are
passages between each of these islands. The northern channel requires no
particular directions; that to the southward of Prince George's Island is
the widest and best; but care must be taken of a reef lying one-third of a
mile off its S.W. point, and of a shoal extending 1 mile off its S.E. ex-
tremity.
From the South channel Piedra de Mar bears N. 76° E., true, about 45
miles. It is advisable to steer to windward of this course, in order that, as
the winds during the period at which it is proper to frequent this coast blow
from the northward, the ship may be well to windward.
The Piedra de Mar is a white rock, about 130 feet high, and 140 yards
in length, with 12 fathoms all round it, and bears from Mount San Juan N.
77° W., 30 miles.
Having made Piedra de Mar, pass close to the southward of it, and unless
the weather is thick, you will see a similarly shaped rock, named Piedra da
Tierra, for which you should steer, taking care not to go to the northward
of a line of bearing between the two, as there is a shoal which stretches to
the southward from the main land. The course will be S. 79° E., true, and
the distance between these two rocks is very nearly 10 miles.
SAN BLAS. To bring up in the road of San Blas, round the Piedra da
Tierra at a cable's length distance, and anchor in 5 fathoms, with the low
rocky point of the harbour bearing N. E., and the two Piedras in one.
This road is very much exposed to winds from S.S.W. to N.N.W., and ships
should always be prepared for sea, unless it be in those months in which the
northerly winds are settled. Should the wind veer to the westward, and a
gale from that quarter be apprehended, no time should be lost in slipping and
endeavouring to get an offing, as a vessel at anchor is deeply embayed, and
the holding ground is very bad. In case of necessity a vessel may cast to
westward, and stand between the Piedra da Tierra and the Fort Bluff, in
Marias) appears to be quite safe, and in the narrowest part has from 16 to 24 fathoms water;
but the ground in other places is very steep, and at 2 miles distance from the shore there
is no bottom with 100 fathoms. When the wind is from the northward it is calm in this
channel, and a current sometimes sets to the southward, which renders it advisable, on
leaving the channel, to take advantage of the eddy winds which intervene between the calm
and the true breeze to keep to the northward, to avoid being set down upon St. George's
Island.-Beechey, vol. ii. p. 584.
* The mountains above San Blas may be seen towering above the vapour which hangs
over every habitable part of the land near it. The highest of these, St. Juan, 6,230 feet
above the sea, by trigonometrical measurement, is the best guide to the road of San Blas,
as it may be seen at a great distance, and is seldom obscured by the fogs, while the low
lands are almost always so.-Beechey, vol. ii. p. 584.
SAN BLAS.
107
order to make a tack to the westward of the rock, after which it will not be
necessary again to stand to the northward of a line connecting the two Piedras.
The road of San Blas should not be frequented between the months of
May and December, as during that period the coast is visited by storms from
the southward and westward, attended by heavy rains and thunder and
lightning. It is besides the sickly season, and the inhabitants having all
migrated to Tepic, no business whatever is transacted at the port.
It is high water at San Blas at 9h 41m full and change; rise, between 6
and 7 feet, spring tides.
Captain Basil Hall says:—
Having passed about 8 or 10 leagues to the southward of the group called
the Tres Marias Islands (the westernmost of which lies 54 miles West of San
Blas by chronometers), steer a N.N.E. course, until Piedra Blanca comes in
sight, when it would be advisable to steer directly for it, and pass about a
league or two to the southward of it; from thence you will see Piedra Blanca
de Tierra, which points out the harbour; for this you may steer direct,
taking care not to go in-shore of the line of bearing of the two rocks, as a
sand-bank lies off the coast about halfway between them, to a considerable
distance, on the pitch of which there is only 24 fathoms.
The watering-place is at a well dug near the end or commencement of a
rope-walk, on the beach. The water is sometimes brackish, but improves
by keeping.
Plenty of fish are to be caught at the anchorage, and oysters are found
clustered to the roots. of the trees on the banks of the river.
Early in June the rainy season commences with great violence, like the
monsoons of the East Indies, and continues for six months, during which
period there prevail violent squalls, a heavy rolling sea at the anchorage,
thunder and dangerous lightning, and almost constant rain. The inhabit-
ants, at this season, retire to the neighbouring town of Tepic, and to other
parts of the country, not only to avoid the bad weather, but the ardent
fevers which are prevalent.
In the evenings and mornings the air is so filled with mosquitoes and sand
flies, that those periods, which otherwise would be the best to work in, are
not the most suitable for communicating with the shore. There is always
reason, too, to apprehend the effect of marsh miasma, in the mornings and
evenings, at a spot so surrounded with swamps. There is no doubt, how-
ever, that this place is extremely unhealthy at times, and every precaution,
especially against exposure at night, would be at all times of importance.
The following is by Captain Masters :-"In the rainy season, when the
wind blows strong from the southward, a heavy swell sets in at San Blas,
and as there is nothing to protect the anchorage, it must be felt very se-
verely; but I never heard of any damage having been done to the shipping
in consequence.
108
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
"There is some advantage in a vessel lying outside in the roads during
the rainy season, for there the crews have purer air to breathe; and proba-
bly it might be more healthy than that of the port, besides being partially
clear of mosquitoes and other tormentors of the same cast, which are very
numerous. The crew also are easier kept on board. But if the ship has to
discharge her own cargo, the expenses of doing it will be considered; and if
her long boat is too small for that purpose, the launch, which must be hired,
will most likely be manned by the crew; so that they are more liable to be-
come ill, and being more exposed to the rain and sun, than if a vessel was in
the port; and in the next place, their meals would not be very regular; they
would also get spirits by some means, whoever was in charge of the boat or
launch (providing that he should be even disposed to prevent it), whenever
she went on shore.
"There are 13 feet water on the bar of San Blas, in the shallowest part
of the entrance, and very seldom less even in the neaps. By giving the
point which forms the harbour a berth of 15 or 20 fathoms, you will avoid a
a large stone, which is awash at low water, and is about 8 fathoms from the
dry part of the rocks or breakwater. As soon as you are so far in that the
innermost or eastern part of the breakwater is in a line with the other part
of it inside, which runs to the N.N.E., it may be approached to within 10 or
15 fathoms, and by keeping well off from the low sandy point on the
starboard hand as you warp up the harbour, you will have the deepest water.
But as the sea sometimes in the rainy season (although but seldom) breaks
over the breakwater which forms the harbour, it would be best to moor close
under the high part of the land on which the old ruins of a fort stand, with
the ship's head up the river, and a bower laid off to the eastward, and an
anchor from the starboard quarter, from the larboard side to the shore,
either by taking an anchor out or making fast to the rocks. It would be
next to impossible that any accident could happen to the ship; the cargo
can also be discharged with dispatch, and immediately under the eye of the
master or mate, as the place where the cargo is landed would be about 100
fathoms from the ship. The ship's long-boat would do more inside than two
launches if she was outside; and besides, when the sea is heavy in the
roads, the discharging of the cargo could go on. As there are no established
pilots here, it would be advisable to engage a person to point out where the
stone lays. The captain of the port is the best to apply to, and if he does
not come off himself, would most likely recommend a person.
Care must be taken in standing in for the land not to go to leeward of
San Blas, as there is a strong southerly current along the coast, especially
off Cape Corrientes.* If possible, keep San Blas on an E.N.E. bearing. The
* Captain Beechey came to San Blas from the northward, and on approaching it found
himself more to leeward than he was aware, in consequence of the current setting out of
SAN BLAS.
109
Tres Marias Islands, off the port of San Blas, are convenient points for
making; and here a master could leave his vessel in perfect safety to water
while he communicated with his consignees, or got his overland letters from
his owners at home. There is a safe mid-channel course between the middle
and southern islands. We brought a saddle-shaped hill on the main a little
South of San Blas, one point open of the South island, and steered by com-
pass N.E. by E.
The two Piedra Brancas, that of De Mar and De la Tierra, are excellent
marks for the roadstead. A good anchorage for vessels awaiting orders (for
which purpose San Blas is now almost alone visited, except by English
men-of-war, and Yankee clippers for smuggling purposes) will be found.
with Piedra Branca de Mar, N. 70° W., De la Tierra, N. 43° W., and village
in the Estero, N. 26° W.
Since the days of Hall and Beechey, the town of San Blas has very much
changed. Its population of 20,000 have dwindled to 3,000, and their un-
wholesome appearance fully accounts for the decrease of residents; and
nearly all its trade has been transferred to its rival, Mazatlan.
The large town of Tepic, in the interior, with a small factory, owned by
an English merchant, causes a small demand for European luxuries, and a
cargo or two of cotton; which petty trade is carried on during the six healthy
months in the year.
The town is built on the landward slope of a steep hill, almost perpendi-
cular to seaward, and its crest crowned by the ruins of a custom-house; but
this being about three-quarters of a mile distant from the beach, a large
assemblage of huts has been formed at the landing-place in the Estero del
Arsenal, for the convenience of supplying the shipping.
In the Estero del Arsenal, small craft of less than 10 ft. draught will find
convenient anchorage, means of heaving down, &c. The watering-place is
at least 3 miles distant from the above anchorage, and to assist the boats in
this heavy work, it would always be advisable to shift the vessel into such a
position that they might make a fair wind off and on whilst the daily sea-
breeze blows.
The watering-place is at the northern extremity of a large open bay South
of San Blas. The beach is shoal, and the casks have to be rolled three or
four hundred yards through the jungle to a stream of water. The stream
during the spring tides is liable to be found brackish, but even then we suc-
ceeded in obtaining supplies, by immersing the empty cask with the bung in
such a position that only the fresh water (which of course would be on the
surface) could enter.
the gulf. To save time he passed between the two northernmost islands, and in doing so
was becalmed for several hours, fully verifying the old proverb that the longest way round
is often the shortest way home.-Beechey, vol. ii. p. 584.
110
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
By rigging triangles with spars in such a position that the boats could go
under them to load, we succeeded in embarking daily 32 tons of water.
Many useful and ornamental woods are to be procured on shore, for
the mere trouble of cutting, especially lignum vitæ. Fresh beef we found
good in quality. Game moderately plentiful; oysters good and abundant;
vegetables scarce and expensive. The climate may be summed up by the
word execrable.
Mr. Jeffery, R.N., thus describes his passage from Acapulco to San Blas
which will form a fitting supplement to the preceding :-
On the 8th of December, 1833, we weighed with a light sea-breeze, which
enabled us to work out of the harbour. Towards the afternoon the wind
increased from the westward, and continued to blow fresh for thirty hours,
which is considered unusual on this part of the coast. We were nearly 60 or
70 miles off the land, and for the next ten days had nothing but calms and
light variable airs alternately, and the weather excessively hot and sultry.
At last we got in with the land, about 100 miles West of Acapulco, and on
the 21st were off Point Tejupan. The only remarkable objects on this part
of the coast are the Paps of Tejupan; they are two sharp hills on very high
land. We now found the good effects of being close in shore, and I think
it advisable for vessels making this passage to keep as near the land as
possible, for in the daytime we had a regular breeze from the westward. It
fell light about sunset, and then about 10 or 11 o'clock the land-breeze
would come from the N.E. The advantage of keeping in-shore can seldom
be doubted when we consider that vessels are frequently 40 or 50, and some-
times 60 days making this passage, through not keeping near the land.
Between Tejupan and Cape Corrientes we found a current setting along the
land to the westward from 12 to 15 miles a day. On the 28th, when within
30 miles of the harbour, we had very heavy rain and thick weather; we
arrived on the 29th, and made the passage in 21 days. After rounding Cor-
rientes, if the weather is clear, you will see the saddle mountain near San
Blas; and to the N.W. of it another high mountain, with a remarkable
peak at its N.W. extremity. If you look at it with a glass it will appear
split in two, but to the eye it appears as one. This is so very remarkable
that it ought never to be mistaken, as there is nothing like it on this part of
the coast. When the above peaked mountain bears N.E. the anchorage at
San Blas will bear N.E. also.
The watering-place at San Blas is in a bay to the eastward of the roads ;
you have to land the casks and roll them about 300 yards through the woods
to a river. At high water it is rather brackish, but at all other times the
water is excellent. Wood is very plentiful.
The fine season lasts from December to May inclusive. During that in-
terval the sky is always clear, no rain falls, land and sea-breezes prevail;
and, as there is no sickness, the town is crowded with inhabitants. From
SAN BLAS, ETC.
111
June to November a very different order of things takes place; the heat is
greatly increased, the sky becomes overcast, the sea and land-breezes no
longer blow, but in their stead hard storms sweep along the coast, and ex-
cessive rains deluge the country, with occasional violent squalls of wind,
accompanied by thunder and lightning. During this period San Blas is
rendered uninhabitable, in consequence of the sickness and of the violence of
the rain, which not only drenches the whole town, but by flooding the sur-
rounding country, renders the rock on which the town is built literally an
island. The whole rainy season, indeed, is sickly, but more especially so
towards the end, when the rain becomes less violent and less frequent, while
the intense heat acts with mischievous effect on the saturated soil, and raises
an atmosphere of malaria such as the most seasoned native cannot breathe
with impunity.
This being ivariably the state of the climate, nearly all the inhabitants
abandon the town as soon as the rainy season approaches, that is, by the end
of May.
The whole of the coast about San Blas, Mazatlan, and Guaymas, is per-
fectly clear, and may be approached to within a short distance.
The year is divided into the two seasons described above. It must be
remarked that the change occurs gradually, and its period varies. During
the dry season the weather is constantly fine. The winds blow regularly
during the day from N.W. and W., following the direction of the coast, and
then give place during the night to a slight land-breeze or calms. The
rainy season, which commences in June, is then indicated by calms and slight
showers of rain. As the season advances the showers become heavier, and
instead of beginning at night, they do so in the afternoon, and terminate by
violent storms, accompanied with very dangerous lightning and thunder, the
fierce winds blowing from all points of the compass. The weather keeps of
this nature until the end of September, and it sometimes occurs that the
season terminates by a terrible hurricane, which generally occurs from the
1st to the 5th of October, the festival of St. Francis. These hurricanes,
which always blow from S.E. to S.W., are of short duration, but they are
so violent, and raise such a heavy sea, that nothing can resist them. They
are called in the country the Cordonazo de San Francisco (the lash with St.
Francis's cord or belt). A vessel surprised when at anchor ought to slip her
cables, or cut the moorings, and make sail. At the approach of the cordo-
nazo she ought to gain an offing, or if obliged to keep in the road, to moor
at such a distance off shore that she can easily get under sail on the first in-
timations of its approach. These observations are not applicable to road-
steads entirely open, but such ought to be avoided during the months of
September and October. Sometimes the cordonazo occurs later than St.
Francis's day; thus, on the 1st of November, 1839, twelve ships, who
thought it had passed, were surprised in the Port of Mazatlan, and the
112
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
greater part were lost, and all perished. On the 1st of November, 1840,
three vessels were lost in the road of San Blas, and several people were
drowned, without it being possible to render them any assistance.
A monsoon has been observed on the N.W. coast of Mexico, and in the
Gulf of California, arising from the inversion of the trade winds. In reality,
this wind, almost constantly blowing from the N.E. in the Atlantic, in the
parts North of the equator, is here supplanted by one from the S.W., and
even by winds directly from the West. This inversion, which only prevails
in the Vermilion Sea, is not experienced on the Californian coast, washed by
the Pacific beyond the latitude of 23° North.
At 20 leagues N.W. of San Blas, in front of the mouth of the Rio San
Pedro, lies the little isle Isabel or Isabella.
Isabel Island is of moderate height, and nearly barren; the herbage and
grasses are scarcely to be distinguished. Neither water nor wood are to be
got from it. The beach is lined with rocks, with the exception of a small
sandy cove, open to the West, where boats may be hauled up on the shore.
This island is only frequented by sealers. It is about a mile in length, and
has two conspicuous needle rocks near its eastern end, in lat. 21° 15′ 10″ N.,
long. 105° 51′ 35″.
In lat. 22° 25′ N. the small hills of Bagona are seen; and anchorage
may be found in 8 fathoms near the N.W. point, sheltered from the N.E.
winds. The mouth of the Rio Bagona is designated under the name of the
Boca de Teacapan or Tecapan. At 8 leagues further North, the hillocks of
Chametla are seen. The West point of the Rio Chametla, or Del Rosario, is in
lat. 22° 50′ N. It was in the small port formed by its continuation that
Hernan de Cortes embarked, April 15th, 1535, on his voyage to discover
California. A mile outside the depth is 8 and 9 fathoms.
On the coast several large farms are seen after leaving San Blas. These
are the haciendas, Del Mar, San Andres, Santa Cruz, Teacapan, and Del Pal-
mito. Bullocks may be bought at them for 8 piastres, and some vegetables.
The water of all the rivers is good, and fine wood very abundant.
MAZATLAN lies 40 leagues from San Blas, and has supplanted the latter
in its commerce, and consequent importance. It was surveyed in 1827 by
Captain Beechey, who places the extreme bluff of Creston Island, lying off
it, in lat. 23° 11' 40" N., long. 106° 23′ 45″ W., variation 10° 18′ E.
The harbour of Mazatlan is entirely open to the winds which are most
dangerous in the rainy season. It is formed by a bay, in the centre of which
stands the town, but small vessels only can approach it. Larger ships an-
chor to the southward, under the lee of the Island of Creston, a small but very
high island, forming the North side of the road. It is of a roundish form,
and green at the top, but is perpendicular seaward, so that it appears only
as a white cliff. Creston is separated from another island by a narrow
rocky channel, and this last from the main land by a cable's length, In
MAZATLAN.
113
approaching Mazatlan, Creston will be the first made out, seemingly de-
tached from the coast. At 4 and 5 miles N.W. of it are two islets, called
Islas de los Pajaros and De los Venados, which at a distance will appear like
two patches on the coast, and will also serve to make out the anchorage, for
it is the only point on this part of the coast where there is a group of
islands. The anchorage used is that to the South of Creston, but the islets
form between them and the main land another road, formerly used by the
Spaniards, which is much to be preferred in the rainy season. It is shel-
tered from the South and S. W. winds, which prevail from the middle of June
till the end of October, and blow heavily at times, and gives it the advan-
tage of getting away between the islets, or between them and the coast; but
as the prevalent N.W. winds of the dry season blow right into it, and raise
such a heavy sea on the beach, that landing goods, &c., is a very difficult
task, the anchorage South of Creston, where these inconveniences are not
felt, is preferred.
The port of Mazatlan has been opened to foreign commerce for many
years. Under the Spanish dominion it was unknown, but on the proclama-
tion of the Mexican independence it was placed on a different footing; and
Captain Sir E. Belcher says, that between his former visit in 1827 and that
in 1839, it had increased from a village to a town.
The official name which was applied to it by the Mexican government is
La Villa de los Castillos. Its population is less during the rainy season, but
rises to 14,000 or 15,000 at the dry season, or when the vessels arrive. It
has a very picturesque appearance both from land and sea, the houses being
all light coloured, and in the better parts of the town handsome and
commodious, the style being that of the old Castilian, suitable to the hot
climate.
Ships ought to get their water in the peninsula which forms the South
side of the road; everywhere else it is brackish. Although Mazatlan is less
unhealthy than San Blas, severe fevers are common during the rainy season.
Commanders should be strict in not allowing their men to run into any ex-
cesses, which are highly dangerous.
At 10 leagues to eastward of the port, on the road leading to San Blas and
Tepic, and 3 leagues from the sea, is the old Presidio of Mazatlan. There
are no vestiges of the fortification, and the fine barracks built by the
Spaniards only serve now to shelter a few cavalry soldiers. The Rio de Ma-
zatlan, which runs near the Presidio, falls into the harbour.
Captain Sherard Osborn, R.N., speaks rather more favourably of the
climate. He says (1846):-The coasters run up the river to the new town
of Mazatlan, which has risen to considerable importance within a very recent
period, notwithstanding the disadvantages it labours under from the paucity
North Pacific.
I
114
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
of supplies, both animal and vegetable, and from the water being both bad
and scarce.
Mazatlan is now the outlet for the products of the valuable
mining district of San Sebastian, and imports directly large cargoes of
English goods. The general healthiness of the climate, as compared with
its neighbour San Blas, has materially tended to an increase of its popula-
tion. The town, from being built on the crest of some heights, clear of
mangrove and swamp, had an air of cleanliness and pure ventilation rare in
this part of America. Vessels invariably moor in the roadstead, open hawse
to W.S.W., and too close a berth to Creston Island is not advisable, as the
squalls sweep over it with great strength.
Capt. Beechey's directions are as follow :—
The anchorage at Mazatlan, at the mouth of the Gulf of California, in the
event of a gale from the south-westward, is more unsafe than that at San
Blas, as it is necessary to anchor so close to the shore, that there is not
room to cast and make a tack. Merchant vessels moor here with the deter-
mination of riding out the weather, and for this purpose go well into the
bay. Very few accidents, however, have occurred, either here or at San
Blas, as it scarcely ever blows from the quarter to which these roads are
open, between May and December.
There is no danger whatever on the coast between Piedro de Mar and
Mazatlan; the land is a sure guide. The Island of Isabel is steep, and has
no danger at the distance of a quarter of a mile. It is a small island, about
a mile in length, with two remarkable needle rocks near the shore, to the
eastward of it.
Beating up along the coast of Sonora, some low hills, of which two or
three are shaped like cones, will be seen upon the sea-shore. The first of
these is about 9 leagues South of Mazatlan, and within view of the island of
Creston, which forms the Port of Mazatlan. A current sets to the southward
along this coast, at the rate of 18 or 20 miles a day.
Having approached the coast about the lat. of 23° 11′ N., Creston and
some other steep rocky islands will be seen. Creston is the highest of these,
and may be further known by two small islands, Venado and Pajaros, to the
northward of it, having a white, chalky appearance. Steer for Creston, and
pass between it and a small rock to the southward, and when inside the
bluff, luff up and anchor immediately, in about 7 fathoms, the small rock
about S. 17° E., and the bluff W. by S. Both this bluff and the rock may
be passed within a quarter of a cable's length. The rock has from 12 to 15
fathoms within 30 yards of it in every direction. It is, however, advisable
to keep at a little distance from the bluff, to escape the eddy winds. After
having passed it, be careful not to shoot much to the northward of the
before-mentioned bearing (W. by S.), as the water shoals suddenly, or to
MAZATLAN.
115
reach so far to the eastward as to open the West tangent of the peninsula,
with the eastern point of a low rocky island S. W. of it, as that will be near a
dangerous rock (the Blossom Rock), nearly in the centre of the anchorage,
with only 11 feet water upon it at low spring tides, and with deep water all
round it. There may be a buoy upon it; but should this be washed away,
its situation may be known by the eastern extreme of the before-mentioned
low rocky island (between which and Battery Peak there is a channel for
small vessels) being in one with a wedge-shaped protuberance on the western
hillock of the northern island (about 3 miles North of Creston), and the
N.W. extremity of the high rocky island to the eastward of the anchorage
being a little open with a rock off the mouth of the river in the N.E. The
South tangent of this island will also be open a little (4°), with a dark table
hill on the second range of mountains in the East. These directions will, I
think, be quite intelligible on the spot.
The winds at Mazatlan generally blow fresh from the N.W. in the even-
ing; the sea-breeze springs up about 10 in the forenoon, and lasts until two
o'clock in the morning.
It is high water at this place at 9h 50m, full and change; rise, 7 feet,
spring tides.
To these may be added the following extract from the remarks by the
French Admiral Du Petit Thouars:
In approaching Mazatlan there is no difficulty. The latitude of the port
must be gained, or rather a few minutes to the North of it, on account of
the currents which generally run strong out of the Gulf of California, and
which would thus send a ship to leeward of the port. In clear weather the
land may be seen at 40 or 50 miles off, and, if you are on the parallel of
Mazatlan, the first which will be seen will appear in the N.E., the N.E. † E.,
or E.N.E., according to the distance. Nearing the land it will be seen
successively extending towards the South as far as E., and even as E.S.E.
From the offing nothing can be made out. The land on the shores is gene-
rally very low, and, in the first instance, only the interior high land will be
seen; and it is only when you are within 18 or 20 miles of the coast, for
example, that its different points can be distinguished. The islands of
Creston, Venado, and Pajaros will be made out; the first seen is Creston. As
soon as all uncertainties of the position of Mazatlan cease, steer either for the
anchorage of Venado or that of Creston.
1
In proceeding for Venado, with the ordinary winds of the season, steer for
the S.W. point of Venado Island, carefully looking out for and avoiding a
small rock awash, called the Laxa, which lies about 200 yards from this
point, and does not always break: after having passed this rock, which may
be done within a hundred yards, bear more to the northward to enter the
I 2
116
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
bay, and bring the S.W. point of Venado to bear West, or even W.S.W.,
according as you intend to anchor more or less within the bay.*
The subsequent description and directions are by Captain Masters, who
we have before quoted. It must be premised, however, that his names
differ in some few points from those of the Admiralty chart. We have
therefore altered them to agree with that, leaving the originals within
parentheses.
Mazatlan is a port very easily made. It is formed by a cluster of islands;
to the southward of them is a long line of beach, with low land, thickly
covered with trees, running several miles in before it reaches the foot of the
mountains, and continues the same as far to the southward as the North side
of the bar of Tecapan, where the land is high.
The port of Mazatlan, at its entrance, is formed by the island of Creston
on its western, and Ciervo Island on the eastern side. From the sea the
former has nearly a regular ascent, the length of the island lying from East
to West, where it terminates in an abrupt precipice, and is covered with
small trees. It has from 8 to 10 fathoms water to within a few fathoms of
it. The Island of Ciervo has a very similar appearance, and is about half
the height of Creston, being partially covered with trees. These islands can
be seen several miles before the land at the back of the town makes its ap-
pearance. The outer rock is situated well outside the roadstead, and forms
nearly an equilateral triangle with the islands of El Creston and Ciervo;
it is about 8 feet high, and nearly the same in breadth, and from 7 to
8 fathoms long from North to South. There are 5 fathoms water close
to it.
At two-thirds of a mile N.W. of Creston are two islets called the North
and South Hermanos, lying S.W. and N.E. of each other, and a quarter of a
mile apart. There is a small reef off the East point of the former. At a
quarter of a mile W.N.W. of the latter is the Tortugas Rock, about 2 feet
above water, and apparently not more than 20 or 30 feet long.
In the excellent plan of the harbour of Mazatlan the soundings in gene-
ral are very correct; but the stranger, in coming to an anchor in the night
time, should not attempt to pass within the line from the outer part of El
Creston to El Ciervo, but anchor outside in from 9 to 12 fathoms, where he
will find sand and mud. Within the port is a long sand, which extends out
from the bottom of it, a great part of which is dry at low water, and is shoal
for some distance to the S.E., extending nearly as far as the Island of
Ciervo, with a boat channel between it and the island. The inner anchorage
is to the westward of this sand. It is said that the bank is increasing, and
that the port has filled very much within a few years past.
*Du Petit Thouars, Voyage du Venus, vol. ii. pp. 175-6,
PORT OF MAZATLAN.
117
In the summer season large vessels anchor between the two islands at
about a third the distance from Creston to Ciervo, and moor East and West.
The depth of water is from 7 to 9 fathoms, sand and muddy bottom. A
vessel drawing 12 feet water might go inside to the minor anchorage without
the least risk; but, as the pilot has launches to get employed, he cannot be
persuaded to take a vessel in even drawing 9 feet.
North of the island of Creston, and between it and the main land, is the
island of Azada (Gomez), which is low, and is separated from Creston by a
narrow boat channel. From about the middle of Azada a bar extends to the
eastward across the port nearly to the sand-bank already mentioned. The
pilot informed me that there were patches of shoal water on it when the
water was low, not having more than 6 feet on them, which might be the
but where I sounded there was not less than 12 feet. Inside the bar
it deepens to 4 or 5 fathoms, and close up to the town, abreast of the
custom-house, at low water, there are from 2 to 3 fathoms, with a sandy
bottom.
case;
When the wind blows strong from the N.W. there is a short chop of a
sea heaves in between the island of Gomez and Point Pala (Calandare),
although the distance they are apart is short, but by anchoring, as already
mentioned, opposite Creston, most of it is avoided.
In the rainy season it is very unsafe to lay inside, as gales come on from
the southward, which bring in a heavy sea. Vessels of all sizes anchor in
this season in the outer roads, between the islands and the outer rocks, from
which they can be got under way, and stand clear of the coast.
To the northward of the present port of Mazatlan, about 5 miles, is the
N.W. Port of Mazatlan. It is a very fine bay, and well sheltered from the
N.W. winds by Venado and Pajaros Islands. It was in the southern part
of this bay that vessels formerly discharged their cargoes, but the present
port being more secure; it was established in its stead.
Watering is attended with great risk at all times in this place, especially
at full and change, the boats having to cross the heavy surf of the bar
formed between a long spit which runs down the centre of the river, and a
bank joining it from the South shore. Several boats and lives are annually
lost here. In pulling in care should be taken to cross the surf pretty close
to the middle ground, and, when through the first rollers, to pull over to the
South shore, and keep it on board up to the watering place. In coming out
no casks ought to be allowed in the head sheets, everything depending upon
the buoyancy of the boat.
The water is procured from a number of wells dug by seamen, on a low
alluvial island, formed on a quicksand in the bed of the river; none of them
are consequently more than 10 feet deep. The water is by no means sweet,
118
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
being merely sea-water, which undergoes a partial purification in filtering
through the soil.
A pilot is always in attendance; pilotage 1 dollar per foot, and 5 dollars
for the assistance of a boat. There are 12 feet on the bar, but 18 feet inside.
Discharging costs about 1 dollar 50 cents per ton, and is always at the mer-
chant's expense. Tonnage dues 1 dollar per ton when loaded, in ballast,
free. Labour 2 dollars per day. Sand ballast 1 dollar per ton; stone ditto
2 dollars. Water 3d. per gallon. Beef 12 cents per lb. Weights and
measures are the same as those of Spain.
CHAPTER III.
THE GULF AND PENINSULA OF LOWER CALIFORNIA.
WHEN Cortes had conquered Mexico, the Spanish emperor (Charles V.)
granted him great titles of honour, but limited his authority to the idle com-
mand of troops reduced to inaction. Thus confined, his ardent spirit entered
into new projects of extending the knowledge of the hitherto all but unknown
countries in the West. In one of these expeditions California was first dis-
covered by Fortun Ximenes, the pilot of the La Concepcion, a vessel sent by
Cortes to explore the coast to the N.W. of Acapulco. Ximenes having mur-
dered the captain (Diego Bezerro), in November, 1533, to avoid the conse-
quences sailed to the N.W., and anchored in a port which is probably on the
Gulf of California, and was attacked and slain by the Indians on shore.
This appears to have been the first discovery of California.
The Gulf of California was first formally explored by Francisco de Ulloa,
by direction of Cortes. He had under him three vessels, which sailed from
Acapulco in July, 1539. This was the last expedition of discovery in which
Cortes was concerned.
The name of California is of uncertain origin. It is not known to have
been used by the natives in any part of the country. It has been conjectured
that it is derived from the heat of the weather experienced here by Cortes,
but of this we are not told. By some it is thought that it is derived from a
custom prevalent throughout California, of the Indians shutting themselves
in ovens until they perspire profusely. It is not improbable that the custom
appeared so singular to Cortes, that he gave it the name in consequence. It
has also been considered as a corruption of colofon, the Spanish term for
resin; the pine trees yielding it being in such profusion here.
The peninsula is sometimes called Old or Vieja California, in contradis-
tinction to Nueva or New California, the later discovery, hence the appella-
tion. California Baja, or Lower, is also a term of some antiquity; and the
distinction of Baja and Alta, Lower and Upper, seems to be that now more
120
LOWER CALIFORNIA.
generally recognised, since the United States have denominated their portion
of the territory from its higher latitude.
During the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, large quantities of pearls
were procured by the Spanish adventurers, and these pearl fisheries in the
Gulf of California increased in fame.
At the period of its greatest prosperity, about 600 to 800 divers were em-
ployed; the fishery being carried on in small vessels of 15 to 30 tons burden.
In 1831 four tolerably large vessels, from Mexico, with 180 divers, together
obtained pearls to the value of £2,660.*
The PENINSULA has remained, until quite recently, almost unknown to
the civilised world, and its Spanish possessors have done nothing to explore
its capabilities, in all the centuries it has been in their possession. The
maps, therefore, have been strangely defective. But since Upper Cali-
fornia has been developed into one of the most prosperous countries in the
world, a new interest in it has been created. This led to the purchase of the
central portion of the peninsula by a New York Trading Company of the
Mexican Republican chief, Juarez, in 1866. An exploring expedition,
consisting of Mr. J. Ross Brown, Mr. W. M. Gabb, and Dr. Ferdinand
Lochr, was organised in 1867, and we now know from their report much
more of the peninsula.†
The inhabitants are not more than 6,000 in number, chiefly half-castes, in
whom Indian blood predominates, and this is the entire population of an
area 540 miles long by 50 in average breadth. The land of the peninsula
gradually slopes, or forms a succession of plateaux, from the shores of the
Pacific to within a few miles of the eastern coast, where it terminates in
abrupt precipices, from 3,000 to 4,000 feet in height, facing the Gulf of
California. This singular conformation suggests the idea that the peninsula
forms only one-half of a mountain range, divided longitudinally, of which
the corresponding or eastern half has disappeared along the depression of
the gulf. The narrow tract between the foot of the high escarpment and the
gulf shores is broken into ridges and valleys, forming a sort of undercliff,
and clothed with a luxuriant semi-tropical vegetation.
*The most valuable pearls in the possession of the court of Spain were found in the
gulf in 1615 and 1665, in the expeditions of Juan Yturbi and Bernal de Pinadero. During
the stay of the Visitador Galvez in California, in 1768 and 1769, a private soldier in the
presidio of Loreto, Juan Ocio, was made rich in a short time by pearl fishing on the coast
of Ceralvo. Since that period the numbers of pearls of California brought annually to
market were almost reduced to nothing. The Indians and negroes who followed the severe
occupation of divers have been frequently drowned, and often devoured by sharks. The
divers have always been poorly paid by the whites.—Alcedo, 1768–69.
† Official Report on the mineral resources of the United States for 1868, by Mr. Ross
Brown, page 630. The work contains much valuable geographical information.
GULF OF CALIFORNIA.
121
The rocks of this long mountain range are of modern geological date, or
the tertiary period, but the southern and northern portions are differently
constituted. Here the slope and escarpment are replaced by a chain of
granitic mountains. In the South, the peak of St. Lazaro rises to a height
of 6,000 feet, being the highest point. Most of the central part is bare of
trees. One half the population is concentrated in the picturesque valleys of
the granite range in the South, where the flourishing silver mines of Triumfol
are situated. There are here three or four small towns, but in the rest of
the territory only small scattered villages and mission stations are to be met
with.
There are some tolerable harbours, but, from the foregoing reasons, they are
ineligible for the site of large towns. It is said to be rich in minerals, and
near its South extremity there are said to be some rich argentiferous lead mines,
but these and others have been comparatively little worked. Timber, and
indeed vegetation itself, is very scarce, by far the largest portion of the sur-
face being incapable of producing a single blade of corn. In some of the
sheltered valleys fruits suitable to a warm climate have been successfully
cultivated, and wine has been made and exported. Cattle are rather more
numerous than would have been supposed, as they feed on the leaves of the
musquito tree, a species of acacia. Some observations of the climate of the
gulf are given presently; but for the land it may be said to be exces-
sively hot and dry. Unlike Mexico, the rains, except in the most south-
erly parts of the peninsula, occur during the winter months; summer rains
scarcely occur North of Loreto. Near lat. 26° violent earthquakes are not
uncommon.
In the subsequent descriptions the works of Capt. Sir Edward Belcher, of
H.M.S. Blossom, who surveyed several of its ports; that of Du Petit Thouars;
of M. Duflot de Mofras; the voyage of Captain George Vancouver, in 1793,
and the interesting volumes by Dr. Wm. Bell, 1869, &c., have been
consulted.
The GULF OF CALIFORNIA may be considered to terminate on the
South at Mazatlan and Cape St. Lucas. These points have been geographi-
cally fixed by modern science, and Guaymas also, farther North, has been
determined. Dr. Coulter, and Lieutenant-Colonel Emory, U.S.E., made
some observations on the Rio Colorado at its head, and the result of these
determinations has been to remove the Gulf further to the East than had been
previously exhibited on the charts, thus giving the peninsula a greater
breadth than it had been supposed to have; but this cannot be considered as
finally determined.
This gulf was designated by the first Spanish navigators under the name
of the Red or Vermilion Sea (Mar Rojo, Mar Vermejo), on account of the
colour of its waters, and for its resemblance to the Red Sea of Arabia.
The learned Jesuit missionaries traversed it entirely, calling it Seno or Mar
1
122
THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA.
Lauretaneo, Gulf or Sea of Loreto, in honour of the Virgin, their protector
and patroness, and it has been called the Sea of Cortes, from the great
general.
The length of the gulf is about three hundred leagues; its greatest breadth
is 60 leagues at its entrance; but throughout its extent the distance from one
side to the other does not vary but from 25 to 40 leagues. Beyond the
thirty-first parallel, its breadth rapidly diminishes to the Rio Colorado, which
falls into it at its head.
It has been often remarked, that a singular phenomenon occurs here,
which science does not explain, and of which we possess but few exam-
ples. It is that of rain falling when the atmosphere is quite clear, and
the sky perfectly serene. The savant Humboldt and Capt. Beechey have
related the fact; the first having testified as to its occurring inland, the
second in the open sea.
The tides are felt throughout the Gulf of Cortes; their height varies with
the direction and force of the wind, and the configuration of the coasts: thus
it is 7 feet at Mazatlan, the road of which is open, and at Guaymas, the
port of which is full of islets, and sheltered from the wind, it does not ex-
ceed 5 feet.
Independently of a great number of fish, of a variety of species, there are
two species of immense shark found in the gulf (el tiburon and la tintorera),
which often seize the pearl fishers. Whales are also met with in considerable
numbers, but, up to the present time, no whaler has pursued them. On the
islands are numerous seals and sea-calves. The pearl fishery is, or rather
was, also followed, as stated in the introductory remarks.
The two shores of the Vermilion Sea run parallel with each other toward
the N.W.; they are very low and full of salt marshes, tenanted by alligators,
reptiles, and insects. The general aspect of the country is horrible; the
imagination cannot conceive anything more naked, more desolate. There is
an entire want of water and vegetation; there are only mangroves, and some
thorny plants, such as the cactus, magueys (aloes), or acacias, to be seen.
Orange trees or palms are rarely met with, and one must proceed some
leagues into the country to find vegetable mould. The shore is formed by
sand and lands quite unfit for cultivation.
At the entrance of the gulf, on the eastern side, the summits of the Sierra
Madre may be seen in the distance; these separate the provinces of Jalisco,
Sinaloa, and Sonora, and those of Nuevo Mexico, Chihuahua, and Durango.
The coast of Lower California presents, without interruption, a series of
rugged peaks of volcanic origin, and without any vegetation. This moun-
tain chain, which comes down from the North, and extends throughout
the whole peninsula, gradually decreases in elevation as it approaches Cape
San Lucas.
The eastern side of the gulf is comprised in the Mexican provinces of Si-
GULF OF CALIFORNIA.
123
naloa and Sonora, separated by the Rio del Fuerte. Their principal riches
consisted in their gold and silver mines, of course now eclipsed by Upper
California. There are some considerable cities in the two departments. The
chief are in Sinaloa, Culiacan, the residence of the governor, &c. Rosario,
above Mazatlan, has, or had, the quarters of the troops. Up to 1839 Arispe
was the capital of Sonora, in which year it was carried 40 leagues to the
South, on account of the incursions of the Apache Indians. It is now at the
ancient mission of S. José de los Ures. The port of Guaymas concentrates
all the maritime affairs of Sonora, and Hermosillo is the centre of its com-
merce and riches. In the North part of the state large quantities of gold
have been found.
Mr. Jeffery, R.N., who was here in January, 1834, makes the following
observations in his journal:—In the Gulf of California two winds are pre-
valent during the year. The N.W. from October until May, and the S.E.
from May until October. During this former wind fresh breezes and fine
weather will prevail, and a vessel making a passage up the gulf should keep
the western shore on board, and she will find a little current in her favour,
while on the eastern shore it will be against her When the latter wind pre-
vails you get nothing but heavy rains, oppressive heat, and sultry weather,
and the reverse must be observed with respect to the currents.
N.B.-The above is a copy from an old Spanish manuscript, and we proved
it correct when we made the passage in 1834."
The COAST between Mazatlan and Guaymas is but little known or fre-
quented. The interior country is an important mining district, which has
been worked from the earliest times, and still affords, with due prudence and
skill, an almost inexhaustible supply of silver, copper, and gold. The
latter is thought to be too capricious to be profitable, and many of the copper
and silver mines have brought ruin on their proprietors through extravagance
and mismanagement. Another article of export is dye-wood, which is
shipped from the river entrances.
The coast northward of Mazatlan is low and swampy, the first place worth
notice is the River Elota, 43 miles from Mazatlan, nearly dry in the hot sea-
son, but a turbid torrent in the wet one. Up the river a few miles is the
pueblo of Elota, standing in a thinly populated and partially cultivated
country, of no interest to commerce. The village is near the foot of the
Sierra Madre range of mountains, which runs generally parallel with the
coast.
The Rio San Lorenzo, or Great Tavala River, is 34 miles beyond the Elota,
and is of similar character. At 20 miles from its mouth is the pueblo of
Cosala, a well known mining place of about 4,000 inhabitants, with many
gold and silver amalgamation works. Large numbers of cattle are reared,
and the climate, though very hot, is considered to be healthy.
The River Culiacan is about 46 miles beyond the San Lorenzo, and is
124
THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA.
used to float down the large quantities of Lima or Nicaragua wood cut from
all parts of the mountains in this vicinity. Culiacan, the capital of the pro-
vince of Cinaloa, is on the river 23 miles from its mouth. It has been a
handsome Spanish town, and still contains some wealthy inhabitants, occu-
pied with the numberless silver mines in the adjoining Sierra. The largest
building is the Casa de Moneda, a mint, built by English engineers.
ALTATA is the port of Culiacan, on the North side of the entrance of the
river. It is thus described by Captain G. H. E. Horn, of the Hamburg
barque Colima. On leaving Manzanillo in the rainy season, a passage to
Altata is very easily made, carrying a fair wind all the way; but in the dry
season when the N.W. wind is blowing, much difficulty is then found, as
strong winds and currents are against you at that time. It is advisable to
hug the Mexican coast, in order to anchor, in case it should fall calm, as it
generally does at night; by standing out of anchoring ground you will drift.
back in the calm, nearly as much as you have gained by beating up. On
the passage you will sight the Cerro of St. Sebastian, the position of which
assigned to it on the charts from the Spanish survey, may be depended on.
Having approached about lat. 24° 39′ or 24° 40' N., long. 108° 10′ W., the
saddle-shaped hill of Tamasula will bear N N.E. E., you are then W. by
S. from the anchorage, distant 7 miles. Steer E. by N., and anchor as soon
as you are in 8 fathoms water, muddy bottom. On steering for the anchor-
age of Aitata, if the lat of 24° 35′ N. is passed, take care not to near the
shore too much, as there are reefs, stretching out several miles to the south-
ward. It is by no means safe to anchor too near the shore. In case it should
come on to blow, you have to slip your anchor and stand out to sea until the
weather moderates. The filling and procuring water at Altata is difficult
and expensive: it cannot be done with the ship's boats and crew, but you
have to employ men from shore, who fetch it in small kegs on mules from a
plain inland where it is dug for. Thirty hogsheads cost me while I was
there 20 dollars, and 30 dollars more for bringing on board.
Position of Altata, lat. 24° 40′ 12″ N., long. 107° 57′ 41″ W.
By attending to the following directions, the mariner not acquainted with
the place will be enabled from the roadstead to find the boat channel leading
to Altata. From the anchorage, a conspicuous white house in Altata will
bear E. S., this is also the bearing of the bar from the boat channel, which
lies beyond a low lagoon island, the N.W. extreme of which has to be rounded
to gain the entrance. From the anchorage steer for a white sandy height,
to the westward of Altata; as you approach the surf you will perceive, a
little to the westward of several small hillocks forming a part of the above
mentioned height, the trunk of a broken tree, which you must bring on the
starboard bow, and standing on it in that direction you will see smooth water
through the surf; running in till within a boat's length of the beach, you
will have passed the rollers, and you must then turn along the beach towards
ALTATA.
125
Altata River, where further directions are unnecessary, the eye being the
best guide. Should the broken tree be sanded over, or be taken away, it
will be difficult for a stranger to find the boat channel, and it is then recom-
mended to steer direct for the white sandy height, and wait at the back of
the surf until, as is commonly the case on the arrival of strange vessels, some
person on shore by motions points out the entrance.
The coast hereabout is badly represented on the charts, and, being very
low, this is the more important, as an extensive shoal skirts it for some miles.
It was more particularly described by Capt. S. Richmond. He found (July
8th, 1854), shoal water, 4 fathoms, with Altata bearing N.E., distant 9 to
12 miles (which is more than probably in excess), and just inside of this
depth, the sand rose above the surface). It extends from the S.W. of
Altata to the Macapule River, lat. 25° 27' N., a distance of 60 miles, the
western edge trending to N.W. by N. It was stated to him that there was
a narrow channel close in shore, used by coasting and also by other vessels,
especially contrabandistas.
San Ignacio Island is in lat. 25° 39′ 30″, according to Lieut. G. H. Derby,
U.S. Top. Eng. It is a barren rock, called a Farallon by the Spaniards,
which he says is about 5 miles long, and 2 or 3 broad. Other authorities
make it very much smaller, and about 200 feet high, entirely uninhabited,
and only resorted to by seals and sea-birds. It is a good land mark for those
passing up or down the gulf.
Nova Chista, a small coasting port, stands on the North side of the entrance
to the Rio de Sinaloa or Cinaloa. The river is useless for navigation. At
about 6 leagues up the river is Cinaloa, a Spanish town, built on a hill, and
formerly of some importance, but since decayed and now almost desolate.
San Ignacio Point, to the N.W. of Nova Chista, is about 90 miles from Al-
tata. It forms a projection to the southward, and having to the East of it
San Ignacio Bay. The point, according to the charts, is surrounded by reefs
and from 3 to 6 miles to the South of it, is the San Ignacio Rock, before
mentioned.
We have only very vague accounts of this coast, but it is said to be shoal
and difficult to approach. To the North of the point is the River Joroaco,
quite unimportant; and at 40 miles beyond is the River Maria de Aome, fall-
ing into the head of a bay. The road from Nova Chista to the mining dis-
tricts of Chihuahua, which crosses the upper course of the River Maria, is
described by Mr. Sevin as being over undulating ground, and fit for wag-
gons or carts, goods being conveyed a distance of 60 travelling leagues for
three dollars per cargo of 300 lbs.
The Rio del Fuerte is of more importance than many hereabout, and de-
bouches at 80 miles northward of Point Ignacio. A considerable body of
water comes down it in the rainy season, and by it are floated in rafts
and flat boats large quantities of the Lima or Brazil dye-wood,
!
126
THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA.
El Fuerte, a town at 70 miles up the river, has declined, though it is near
an important mining region. An Indian town, Arboleta, stands on the South
side of the entrance. The river divides the States of Sinaloa and Sonora.
At 25 miles beyond the Rio del Fuerte is the entrance of the Rio del Mayo,
which is fronted by a bar, and flows through very low land. An Indian town,
Santa Cruz de Mayo, stands at its mouth. Lobos Point, in lat. 27° 17′, accord-
ing to Mr. Boxer, R.N., is very low and dangerous, and requires great
caution when approaching Guaymas, as the south-easterly current out of the
gulf sets past it with great strength. From this to Guaymas the distance is
40 miles. There is anchorage in 6 fathoms at 5 leagues N.W. of the Rio
Mayo. At 4 leagues from Guaymas is the Rio Yaqui, the banks of which
are inhabited by some Indians of that tribe.*
The waters of the river are much used for irrigation, and excellent oysters
are found in the entrance, and are carried to Guaymas.
Though none of these rivers are navigable, the entrances of some of them
will admit coasters.
GUAYMAS is the principal harbour of the Mexican state of Sonora, but
it is of much less importance than Mazatlan, which has at least six times the
amount of trade, because the back country is well peopled, whereas northern
Sonora is almost uninhabited. Dr. Bell says that the true harbour of Guay-
mas covers an area of a little less than four square miles, in which three
small islands, the rocky peaks of submarine hills, rise perpendicularly from
a depth of from 3 to 4 fathoms, and form a little inner harbour. From the
bare volcanic mountains which enclose the harbour several irregular little
promontories project into the water, and occupy much valuable space. The
total area, in fact, of water, more than 4 fathoms in depth, does not exceed
half a square mile. The entrance is not quite a mile wide, and is guarded
by a long rocky island, called Pajaros, 212 feet high, lying exactly in
front and outside of it, which makes the harbour doubly secure.
It is thus described by Lieut. Derby in December, 1851 :-The harbour
of Guaymas is one of the best upon the coast; it is perfectly land-locked
and protected by its numerous islands from every quarter. It has been so
often and so well surveyed, that it is unnecessary for me to enter into a
minute description of its merits. It is to be regretted, however, that it has
not more water, from 4 to 5 fathoms being the average depth, which is in-
sufficient for a ship of the line, or even a first-class frigate. We found
* This river may become of some importance hereafter, for Dr. William A. Bell states,
1869, that there are extensive coal fields on both sides of the Upper Yaqui River, of a
quality equal in every respect to the finest coal of Newcastle or Pennsylvania. The nearest
coal to Guaymas is found at San Marcial, 60 miles distant: although this important fact
will have great weight with the future of Sonora, the mines are at too great a distance from
the shore to be available now.
GUAYMAS.
127
Guaymas a dirty place, with a dirty population of about 1,500 or 2,000.
The houses being built of adobe, with the roofs sloping towards the interior,
have a very unfinished appearance, and from the harbour the town presents
the appearance of having been abandoned when half built. There are two
small piers in a ruined condition; and near the landing a large pile of earth,
surmounted by two or three crumbling walls, over which floats from a lofty
staff the flag of Mexico, marks the site of the adobe fort, knocked down by
the guns of the Dale during the late war. There are several wealthy indi-
viduals in Guaymas, who monopolize the whole of the business with the
interior of Sonora, but the mass of the population are in a state of wretched
poverty. One or two small vessels from San Francisco were lying in the
harbour, the proprietors of which had purchased everything in the shape of
fresh provisions to be obtained. Sheep in large numbers they had purchased
from the interior of Sonora with the intention of landing them at Molexe,
on the Californian coast, thence driving them overland to San Francisco.
Fowls, turkeys, ducks, goats, everything that could be purchased for one
real and sold for twenty had disappeared, causing us no little difficulty in
obtaining fresh provisions, even at comparatively high prices. The water
at Guaymas is obtained from wells, and is slightly brackish. Excellent
oysters are brought from the river Yaqui, which empties into the bay about
20 miles South of the town, and sold to the shipping at a dollar a bushel;
the Mexicans, however, make no use of them.
The time of high water at full and change of the moon at Guaymas is not
very accurately determined; it is, however, between 8 and 9 a.m. The
ordinary rise of spring tides is 6 feet, neap tides 4 feet. The phenomenon of
four tides in twenty-four hours has repeatedly occurred here, as I am credibly
informed. The prevailing winds in May, June, and July, are from the S.E.
and S.W. The thermometer during the summer months ranges from 92° to
98° Fahrenheit, the maximum 110°; during winter from 56° to 60°, minimum
45°. Guaymas is in lat. 27° 54′ N., long. 110° 49′ 10″ W.
Captain Henry Trollope, R.N., gives the following directions :-Guaymas
once having been seen cannot, with ordinary attention, be mistaken; the
whole coast is so remarkable that one is only at a loss to say which is the
most prominent land-mark; nevertheless, as Pajaros Island lies right before
the entrance when 10 or 12 miles to the eastward, it is a blind harbour; a
stranger without a chart might well be in doubt as to the entrance. Cape
Haro, a bold, bluff headland, jutting out due South to seaward, and rising
with a wall-like cliff 200 feet from the water, is the best mark for the har-
bour; it has 14 or 15 fathoms touching the rocks, and the entrance between
Trinidad (an island so called from the distinct manner in which it is formed
in three divisions united at their base) and Pajaros is clear and free from
danger, only taking care to give the points, particularly Punta Baja, a berth
of half a cable's length; the lead is quite sufficient guide for going in.
128
THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA.
Secondly, the white smooth beach of Cochore, extending uninterruptedly
from the Morro Inglese at the entrance of the harbour, 12 miles to the
eastward, and terminated suddenly by a still more remarkable hill, called
Cerro Tordillo, or, as we termed it, Morro Afulva, lies in such contradistinc-
tion to the extraordinary mass of hills forming the peninsula, out of which
the harbour of Guaymas is hollowed like the crater of a volcano, that it is
from the contrast almost equally remarkable. Further to the northward are
the remarkable peaks called Tetas de Cabra (Goat's Teats). Some have
recommended these to be made, as the prevalent wind is from N.W., and
there is certainly no advantage to be gained by getting over on the Cochore
shore, while by making the land to the windward of Cape Haro a ship will
have the prevalent breeze and current in her favour. The Tetas de Cabra
are about 10 miles N.W. by W. of Cape Haro; they stand on the West
shore of a large deep bay, which has several patches of rocks and islets in it.
Pajaros Isle forms of itself an excellent harbour; in fact, the space between
Trinidad, Pajaros, and Morro Inglese is equal as far as security, and supe-
rior as to depth of water, to the harbour itself; the advantage the latter
has, is in there being a better access into the interior. The tides are very
irregular, except at full and change; there appears to be only one tide in
the twelve hours, but then the usual interval occurs between high and low
water. The greatest rise and fall we observed during our stay was 4 feet.
High water 8h a.m.
The harbour of Guaymas is recognised from the offing by a mountain
surmounted by two peaks, which are called Las Tetas de Cabra, from their
supposed resemblance to the teats of a goat. When this is made out, run
along the coast, leaving it a little to port, and the island of Pajaros, which
forms the East side of the entrance, will soon be seen. Then steer so as to
leave it to starboard, entering the channel between it and the land, and the
town and harbour will soon be discovered. The entrance of the harbour
once doubled, two islands are seen in the inner part of the bay, and you
pass between these to reach the anchorage, near or off the land, according
to the draught of water. Vessels under 100 tons make fast to the landing-
place, and those drawing 12 to 15 feet anchor a quarter of a mile off, in 3 or
4 fathoms. Large ships ought to cast anchor outside these islands in 6 or 7
fathoms. This harbour, which would hold a considerable number of vessels,
is very safe in all seasons; the bottom is good holding ground, and it is
sheltered from all winds, and forms a large basin, surrounded with islands,
which prevent any heavy swell reaching it. The bank lying in front of the
entrance is the only danger to shipping, but it is easily avoided in leading
winds, by keeping along the land. Should a vessel be obliged to beat in,
she should be careful not to touch this rock.
Guaymas is surrounded by high mountains, which make it extremely hot
GUAYMAS.
129
in the rainy season. The same fevers are prevalent here as at San Blas
and Mazatlan.
The following remarks on Guaymas are by Lieut.-Com. S. O. Woolridge,
H.M.S. Spy :-" I arrived at Guaymas on July 21st, 1847, in four days from
Mazatlan. During this passage we experienced strong currents running to
the N.W.,* from a mile to a mile and a half an hour. They were much in-
fluenced by the wind, which, from the 19th to the 21st, was south-easterly
and southerly. Current also runs with more force on the eastern shore,
which side we kept.
((
Cape Haro can be easily distinguished by the Tetas or Paps, which
resemble the teats of a goat; they are to the northward. The island of St.
Pedro Nolasco is just visible from the deck to the N.W. The land on the
Yaqui shore is high and peaked; keeping this broad on your starboard
bow, steer to the northward of a deep bay, where the land breaks off, and
you will soon perceive the island of Pajaros, which is at the entrance, or
facing Guaymas. The water is deep all along the island of Pajaros; that is
to say, 4 fathoms, so close as to throw a biscuit on shore.
"A large ship will have to anchor soon after passing Pajaros; that is,
abreast the Morro, in 5 fathoms. A small ship, and those of Carysfort's
class, can anchor inside the isles of Ardilla and Almagro, in 4 and 3
fathoms, just inside them; and in 3 fathoms, as far in as the point off the
town. You may go close to either of the Isles Ardilla or Almagro, in 3 and
3½ fathoms.
Water is very difficult to be got; it is to be obtained by sending about 4
miles for it, or it can be purchased; but, owing to its having to be brought
in on mules or in carts, the price is very high. I wanted 12 tons, which I
found could not be obtained for less than 30 dollars, which would be nearly
10s. a ton.t
Of the shores of the gulf northward of Guaymas, our knowledge is still
imperfect, but its nautical interest is of the most unimportant character.
Besides the old Spanish charts, we have the later U.S. Senate report (1852)
of the exploration made in the U.S. transport Invincible, Capt. Wilcox, as
* This will demonstrate that these currents are greatly, if not entirely, dependent on the
wind, for we are told by other commanders that there is a great outset from the gulf, which
must be guarded against in crossing the entrance.
+ Hermosillo, which is the chief town of this part of Sonora, is 84 miles by the road
North of Guaymas, which may be considered as its port. But the trade of each is not con-
siderable, for Dr. Bell says that three merchant vessels in 1867 glutted the markets of both
places. Hermosillo is a most curious and interesting old town, resembling what a large
Moorish town in Spain was in the seventeenth century. Its situation is singular: it is
built in the gap which the Rio Sonora has cut through the western range, and which rises
high all around it. It is the focus of an important silver mining region, and possesses a
mint for coining dollars.
North Pacific.
K
130
GULF OF CALIFORNIA.
related by Lieut. George H. Derby. We have included all of nautical in-
terest in this report in the subsequent descriptions.
Proceeding northwards along the coast of Sonora, at 4 leagues from Guay-
mas, is an excellent harbour, called Puerto Escondido, the small islands of
San Pedro Nolasco, Tortuga, San Pedro, and in lat. 29° the Isla del Tiburon.
Tortuga is about 6 miles in length, and, like most others in the gulf, ap-
pears rocky, barren, and uninhabited by animals.
Tiburon has a rugged outline. It has long been known as the abode of
the Ceres Indians, a small tribe of about 500, who are represented as ex-
tremely hostile, and invariably opposing any attempt at landing; they are
said to be armed with poisoned arrows. A rich bed of pearl oysters is said
to exist between this island and the coast of Sonora, and there are accounts
of rich gold mines upon the island; but as no one is ever known to have
landed there, it is difficult to understand how the fact was ascertained.
San Estevan or Bruja Island, to the S.W. of Tiburon, presents an exceed-
ingly wild and sterile appearance, resembling the generality of the gulf
coast on the California side. The appearance of the water between this
island and that of St. Sorento led us to suppose that we were on soundings,
but on trying the deep-sea lead we found no bottom at one hundred fathoms.
(Derby.)
Tiburon forms with the coast a narrow and dangerous channel (el Canal
Peligroso), which is terminated by the islet De los Patos. All this part of
the province is barren, and only a few Tépocas Indians are to be met
with.
The rivers do not reach the coast at all times, for a large portion of their
waters is diverted for irrigation. At 35 miles North of Tiburon is the place
called La Libertad or the Puertecitos, from which there is a road to Altar.
To the North of the Rio de la Concepcion de Caborca is the small bay of
Santa Sabina and the island of Santa Inez, the Rio de Santa Clara, and the
watering-place, Los Tres Ojitos. As far as the Rio Colorado, at the head of
the gulf, the coast is barren, and very low. The wind perpetually raises
clouds of the fine sand which composes it.
The head of the Gulf of California has evidently been formed by the de-
tritus brought down by the sigular but almost useless river, the Rio Colorado.
There is no doubt but that it is subject to very great changes,* and there-
* The head of the gulf probably was much further northward in earlier ages of the
world's history. For at from 80 to 150 miles N.N.W. from the present mouth of the
Colorado is an area called the Salt Lake. This is shown by barometrical observations to
be below the sea-level. It is now a dry plain of alluvial formation, with a beach line
distinctly traceable. Mr. W. P. Blake, of Washington, explains its formation by inferring
that the silt or matter brought down by the river has filled up the interval, and shut it off
THE RIO COLORADO.
131
fore no directions can be useful for any period. Lieutenant Derby thus
describes it:—
A large island close to the California shore, in lat. 29° 3′, long. 112° 51′,
was named Smith's Island. This island is about a mile North of Angeles
Bay, a small indentation of the coast about 4 miles in width, slightly open
to the eastward, with a sandy bottom in about 10 fathoms water. The
adjacent country is extremely wild and rugged. The hills are covered with
huge boulders. There are three springs of slightly brackish water at the
foot of the highest hill, and a bed of most excellent oysters is exposed at low
tide. The water may be found by noticing the reeds which grow about it,
and which are the only green things in the vicinity. The bay is apparently
well known to the people inhabiting the interior, as there were many traces
of old encampments, &c. There are plenty of turtle, and in certain seasons
of the year there must be great quantities of water, but in December, 1850,
all was dry and parched. There are several sunken rocks in the entrance.
Tides rise and fall about 15 feet.
Clarence Island or the Ship Rock is a remarkable rock, which at a distance
has the appearance of a ship with all sail set. It is about a mile in circum-
ference, about 200 feet high, and perfectly white with guano. It is probably
the same as Hardy's Clarence Island, but is 20 miles West of the position
he gives to it.
Montague and Gore Islands are to be readily recognized from Hardy's
description. They are low, flat, and sandy, and are separated by a very
shallow channel a mile wide. The country here is covered with dwarf reed
and coarse grass. Thousands of trunks of trees lie scattered over its surface
as far as the eye can reach, showing that it must be entirely overflowed in
the season of the freshets.
The RIO COLORADO is the most important river of this region, and is
one of the most singular in the world. The real character of its upper
course has only been known within a recent period. It divides the State of
California from the territory of Arizona; and at 70 miles in direct distance
from its mouth is the junction of the Gila River, a most important stream
which drains the rich mining districts of S.E. Arizona. On the South side
of the junction is Arizona City, "a small place with a big name," and on
the North side is Fort Yuma, the first station of the Colorado Steam Naviga-
tion Company. This company has three steamers and three barges of 70
and 100 tons burthen. The condition of the river may be judged of when
it is stated that these craft draw one foot when light, and two feet when
loaded, and never travel by night. The river is navigable to Calville, in lat.
from the gulf. The water was then evaporated by the dry winds of that desert region.
and again, the water of the Colorado, at the time of freshets, overflow and run back into the
desert for many miles.
K 2
132
GULF OF CALIFORNIA.
36° 13′ N., a distance 612 miles by the river from its mouth, and 400 miles
S.S.W. from the Salt Lake City. The summers here are intensely hot
(rising to 126° in the shade), but the winters are mild, the lower extreme
being 34°. The average amount of rain in 4 years at Fort Yuma, between
1857-1867, is only 4.01 inches per annum.
Above Calville the Colorado runs through that most wonderful natural
phenomenon—the Grand Cañon, a gorge hundreds of miles long, evidently
cut by the river through the strata to a depth of 6,000 and 7,000 feet, being
scarcely broader at the level of the river than it is on the upper surface of
the plain. It is this unexampled singularity which renders it quite useless
to man, either for means of transport, or for fertilizing the country through
which it flows.*
Lieut. Derby says of it (1851):
The bar at the mouth of the Colorado is about 10, possibly 15 miles in
width; the soundings upon it are from 10 feet to 4 fathoms; it is a very
loose, muddy bottom, and with a stiff breeze a vessel could force her way
over it, even if drawing a foot or more than the lead would indicate. The
distance from the junction of the Gila and Colorado to the mouth of the
latter, by water, is about 104 miles, owing to the many bends of the river,
though the difference of latitude is but little more than half that distance.
The navigation of the Gulf of Carifornia presents none of those difficulties
which we had been led to anticipate. The wind we found invariably from
the N.W., which, at this season of the year, is its prevailing direction; it is
only during the months of June, July, and August that the gales from the
S.E. are prevalent; except in Whale Channel we noticed none of the strong
currents so frequently mentioned as existing in the Gulf.
It would be difficult to mistake the entrance to the river, it being in fact
the head of the gulf, which gradually narrows from 40 to 3 miles when it
is joined by the river, whose turbidstream discolours the gulf for many
miles to the southward, in soundings of 12 and 14 fathoms. On the Sonora
coast, however, exists an indentation some 15 or 20 miles in depth, called
by Hardy Adair Bay; the shoals of this can be seen from the mast-head, a
view from which would prevent one falling into the error which he did of
supposing it a mouth of the Colorado. The angle at the junction of the
slough and the main river is called Arnold's Point, and from the mouth of
the river (after crossing the bar) to this point, the channel varies in depth
* In Dr. Bell's "New Tracks in North America," 1869, an account is given of the
passage down this gorge by James White, a miner. Fleeing from the Indians, his party
(who were all lost but himself), in August, 1867, entered the canon on a raft, and after a
frightful journey of fourteen days (of which six consecutively were without food), he
reached Calville in a dreadful state. This thrilling narrative is found in Chapter XIII of
the above work, and it is probably the only exploration that has been, or will be, made of
this ravine.
THE RIO COLORADO.
133
from 15 to 30 feet, at ordinary high tide, and may, as we have practically
demonstrated, be ascended by a vessel having a draught of 8 or 9 feet, by
taking advantage of the flood, which has a velocity of from 3 to 5 miles per
hour. It is impossible to sail up, however, for although the river varies in
width from 3 miles to 600 yards, the channel is narrow and the navigation
elsewhere obstructed by the numerous sand bars. The proper method, after
passing Gore and Montague Islands through the western channel of the
river, is that which we adopted, to drift with the flood tide, keeping close to
the highest bank, sounding continually, and anchoring before the time of
high water in this way we progressed slowly but steadily, making, per-
haps, 4 or 5 miles per day, until we arrived at the point where we finally
landed the stores, which I have named, "Invincible Point."
The mouth of the Colorado has evidently greatly changed since Hardy's
visit in 1826. The ebb tide was observed to run at 5½ miles an hour, and
the flood comes in with a "bore," a bank of water 4 feet high extending
clear across the river, and occurs daily till near neap tides, proving the
assertion of Hardy, that "there is no such thing as slack water in the River
Colorado."
There is but little water now in the entrance of the Colorado from 24 feet
to 14 fathoms, in January 1851.
The time of high water at Arnold's Point, at the junction of the Colorado
with the Gulf, is 3h 20m p.m., and the ordinary rise about 12 feet, but during
the freshets is apparently at least 15 feet higher. The tidal motion ceases at
about 40 miles from the mouth. Near the mouth there is no vegetation, but
higher up the shores are thickly lined with cane, rushes, small willows, &c.,
and the interior country with a coarse sharp grass. Invincible Point, the
S.E. point of the Colorado Mouth, is in lat. 31° 50′ 26″, long. 114° 46′ 43″.
The Western Shore of the Gulf is as yet but little known. As was above
stated, it is now entering on a new phase, as it has recently become the
property of a Land Company, which may develope its resources, but this is in
the future.
The northern limit of the purchase above alluded to is a line on the pa-
rallel of lat. 31° N., which strikes the western coast to the northward, the
watering place of San Felipe de Jesus. At 25 miles southward of this is San
Fermin. Then follow Santa Ysabel, La Visitacion, San Estanislao, the Bay of
San Luiz de Gonzaga, San Juan y San Pablo, Los Remedios, and the Bay de los
Angeles.
Angeles Island, or I. del Angel de la Guardia, lies off this part of the coast.
It is 30 miles long, but narrow. It is mountainous, rocky, and uninhabited.
To the South of it are three small islands, under the name of Las Arrinas
(or Animas). They are composed of coarse clay slate, coloured trap, and
trap tuffa, and covered with cacti. Immense quantities of seals are found
upon these, as well as most of the other islands of the gulf. I named these
134
GULF OF CALIFORNIA.
Allen's Islands. They are in about lat. 28° 55′ N., and the soundings in the
vicinity from 4 to 17 fathoms.
Angeles Bay is abreast of the South end of the island. It was visited by
Capt. Wilcox, U.S.N., in 1851, as stated on page 131. At low tide
Lieutenant Derby noticed several sunken rocks at the entrance, which they
had not perceived in coming in. The rise and fall at Angeles Bay is about 15
feet. Its lat. is 29° 5′ N., long. 113° 25′ 30″ W.
Abreast of Angeles Island, at 9 leagues from the shore, was the mission of
San Francisco de Borja. To the South the islands of Sal si Puedes (get out if
you can), Las Animas, and San Lorenzo, present a very dangerous passage.
To the South of the Cape de las Virgenes are seen the Bay of Santa Agueda,
Galapagos Island, the Cape and Island of San Marcos, which, with the islands
Tortuguitas and Cape San Miguel, form the Bay of Moleje.
Opposite the Island of San Marcos, but 6 leagues inland, there was the
mission of San Ignacio. That of Santa Rosalia lies half a league from the
sea, on the banks of the Rio Molejé. This point is easy to be found. In
approaching it a small hill will be seen, called the Sombrerito, having the
form of a hat. The bay is shallow, and boats of 15 or 20 tons can only enter
it. Some pearls are found, and on the banks of the river some fruits and
grain are, or have been, produced.
MOLEJE.-This is an extensive bay, which runs to the S.S.W., between
the above river and Point Concepcion on the East. The following observa-
tions on it are by Lieut.-Com. S. O. Woolridge :-"Point Concepcion is diffi-
cult to make out, when you have about a dozen of the same kind within a few
miles of each other. However, the best marks I can give are some table
land, which is very remarkable, and is rather to the right of Molejé village.
Keep this about two points on your starboard bow, and you may stand in
until
you discover some sandy islets, which are off a point called Punta
Ynes. When you are East and West with them, you will be distant from
them about 3 miles. After passing these islets, then steer South and S.S.W.
until you make out the Pyramid Rock, spoken of by Captain Hamilton.
This rock is called Sombrerito, or Little Hat. I think it bad to call it
Pyramid Rock, as there is a point which, in standing in, may be easily
mistaken for it, resembling also a pyramid; but the rock is a pyramid fixed
on a round pedestal like a fort. Another good way of making out this place
is, when the wind is fair, to keep Tortuga Island, about 20 miles distant,
bearing about N.W., and steer in S.E. till you make out the sandy islets, and
proceed as above. There is a passage between the islets and the main land
for small vessels, but, though very inviting, should not be attempted. I tried
it, but getting into 2 fathoms, I put about as quick as possible. My anchor-
age marks in Molejé Bay were as follow, in 5 fathoms :-Point Concepcion,
N. 84° E.; Tortuga Isle, N. 4° W.; Lobos Isle, N. 2° E.; Sombrerito,
S. 67° W. (Pyramid Rock of Captain Hamilton); Equipalito, S. 22° W.
MOLEJE.
135
(Rock on South side of entrance to the river); Punta San Ynes, N.
10° W.
"This is very close in, but I wished to facilitate the watering; about half
a mile further to the northward, in 8 fathoms, is a very good berth. In going
into the bay after making out the Sombrerito, if you wish to go close in,
take care not to bring the Sombrerito at all on your starboard bow; that is
do not open the mouth of the river, as by sounding I discovered a rock with
only one fathom on it; it is on a sandbank with 3 fathoms all round it, about
three-quarters of a mile from the shore; but the rock itself has only one
fathom. It lies with the entrance of the river open, directly between the
Sombrerito and Equipalito Rocks, distant from one half to one mile off shore.
The report of the facility of watering is very delusive and uncertain.
"In the first place I cannot think it possible to water out of the river, as
it is salt for at least 2 or 24 miles, and a great portion of the time boats could
not possibly get up so far. I was there, fortunately, when the moon was
nearly full, and the water was only low between eleven at night and four in
the morning, so that I was enabled to water about eighteen hours out of
twenty-four, and though I had but one small boat (23-feet cutter), I managed
to get 12 tons in two days. She had to go 1 mile up the river, to Padras.
The water is delicious to drink at the stream, but it is so very low, and our
water, after being a day or two on board, became so black, and smelt so
strong of decayed vegetable matter, that though it improved by keeping, it
served chiefly for cooking and washing."
From Molejé Bay to Loreto there is always, near the land, from 20 to 30
fathoms, and the coast offers good anchorages: the Points of Santa Teresa,
Punta Colorada, those of Pulpito de San Juan, the bay of that name, that of
Mercenarios, Point Maglares, and San Bruno Cove.
Mangles Road is 3 miles to the northward of San Bruno Cove, the landing
place is in lat. 26° 16' N., long. 111° 22' W., under the shelter of Mangles
Point. It is open to the East, and at its South side is a rock awash, 2 miles
S.S.E. from Mangles Point, and 1 mile off shore. The bay is famous on the
coast for its valleys, well supplied with wood of a superior quality.
At 3 leagues to the North of Loreto the little island of Coronados offers
shelter from the N.E. Near the mission there is a depth of 4 fathoms, and
under the lee of the Island del Carmen 13 to 16 fathoms.
Lloretto or Loreto.-The anchorage at Loreto is pointed out by the church
and a clump of palm trees, and it may be distinguished at a distance by a
very lofty peak, surrounded by smaller hills.
This mountain, called El Cerro de la Giganta, is the highest in Lower Cali-
fornia. Its height above the sea level is 4,560 feet, according to trigonome-
trical measurement; it is of volcanic formation, as is all the rest of the chain
which runs through the peninsula. The anchorage of Loreto is open to the
winds from North, N.W., and S.W. When they blow very strongly, the
136
GULF OF CALIFORNIA.
ship must get under way to escape being driven on shore. If she is of small
draught, she may make for Puerto Escondido, 14 leagues to the South.
The mission of Real de Loreto, opposite Carmen Island, was the capital of
Lower California; but it is so much decayed that the authorities were trans-
ferred to the Real de San Antonio. The presidio, the mission, and the church,
are fallen to ruins. These buildings, very substantially built by the Jesuits,
were intended to serve, in case of attack, as an asylum to the inhabitants.
They are surrounded by a thick wall, which turns the waters of a torrent
which comes from the mountains; and which, several times, washed away
the houses and the vegetable earth. The church, for a long time after its
decay, contained many pictures, silver vessels, and jewels of considerable
value, which, though left quite open, was considered safe from spoliation.
At Loreto water is generally scarce; and that from the wells is brackish and
unwholesome.
Carmen Island lies in lat. 26° 10′ N. Dr. Bell says it is worth a visit. It
belongs to the American Land Company, and of its huge estate, this is its
richest prize. Close to the shore, but partitioned off from the sea by a
narrow strip of shingly beach, over which the water never flows, is a lake
covering an area of about six square miles, the bottom of which is covered
with pure white crystals of salt-chloride of sodium-without any admixture
or adulteration in the shape of sand, algae, or other salts. Usually no water
covers this area, and the salt has only to be raked up, packed in large
sacks, and shipped to San Francisco. Here it is ground and sold, without
any purification, as the finest table salt. Holes have been dug 10 feet deep
through pure crystals of salt. Fine volcanic mountains form a semi-circle
around this lake, and when it rains the drainage from them flows into this
basin, and covers it to the depth of a few inches. It is supposed that the
salt is thus washed down from some large natural deposits. There are,
also, some fine beds of the long shelled oyster hereabouts which are shipped.
to San Francisco.
Salinas Bay was surveyed February 4th, 1849, in the Herald, by Captain
Kellett, R.N. He places the head of it in lat. 25° 59′ 34″ N., long. 111° 5′
45" W. It is about 33 miles wide between Moro and White Points, and
2 miles deep. Fish and turtle are to be got at its head.
To the South of the Isle Carmen are the Islands Catalana, three leagues in
length, Monserrate, Los Danzantes, the Pearl Banks, &c., of which the chart
gives the best guide. They were partially examined in February, 1849, by
Captain Kellett, R.N., in the Herald. The only points visited by shipping
are the harbour of La Paz and San José del Cabo.
Catalana Island is about 7 miles long. Its North end is in lat. 25° 42',
long. 110° 47'. It is very abrupt, narrow, and has deep water close-to.
Midway between it and the coast is Montserrate, of small extent; and at 2
LA PAZ BAY.
137
miles North of it are some rocky islets outside, or to the North of which is a
dangerous rock only 2 feet above high water.
San Josef Island is 40 miles South of Catalana. It is 3 leagues long, and
separated from the coast by a deep channel 4 miles wide. Amortajada Bay
is on its S.W. side, and is the principal anchorage. It is an anchorage open
to the S.W. Its N.W. point, according to Captain Kellett, is in lat. 24° 54′
N., long. 110° 35′ 23″ W. Fresh water is to be got, in the season, from a
rivulet at its S.E. end. The anchorage is sheltered. San Francisco Island
lies off the South end of San Josef.
Espiritu Santo Island is about 20 miles S.E. of San Josef. It projects
northward from the peninsula which forms the bay of La Paz, being sepa-
rated by a channel 3 miles wide, which has a sunken rock in the centre.
There are some islets off its North end, but they are not well known. At
the S.W. end of the island is San Gabriel Bay, sheltered from northward and
eastward, lat. 24° 25' N., long. 110° 19′ W. There is anchorage in 10 fa-
thoms, but it suddenly shoals from this. Port Ballena is a mile to the North
of San Gabriel. In its entrance are Gallo and Gallina, two islets, between
which is good anchorage.
narrow.
LA PAZ BAY is an extensive indentation, running southward for 20
miles, and about 12 miles wide at the entrance. At its head is the town of
La Paz, and on its eastern side, about 5 miles from Point San Lorenzo, the
N.E. entrance point, is the island of San Juan Nepomuceno, 1½ mile long, but
It is connected with the land at its North end by a shallow flat,
but it forms a bay, opening southwards, called Pichilingue Bay. This har-
bour is about one-third of a mile broad, and has a depth of 43 to 6 fathoms,
affording excellent shelter. Very fine pearls used to be found here. The
S.E. point of Nepomuceno Island is in lat. 24° 15′ N., long. 110° 16′ W.,
according to Capt. Kellett.
La Paz, where Cortes landed, May 3rd, 1535, is in lat. 24° 10′, long.
109° 45'. In coming here vessels anchor in Pichilingue Bay, above men-
tioned, to the East of the Island of San Juan Nepomuceno, in from 5 to 9
fathoms, and at 2 leagues' distance from the houses. The population of La
Paz consists of about 400 people, the greater part descended from foreign
This is the only town of Lower California.* It is a beautiful
little place, nestled amongst palm trees at the extremity of the inlet, sur-
rounded by bold mountains of variegated volcanic rock, so common along the
seamen.
* The Port of La Paz was named at the time of its discovery Bahia de Santa Cruz,
afterwards it was called under the name of Porto del Marquez del Valle (Cortes), and lastly
that by which it is now known. It was during his stay in this bay that Cortes received the
unpleasant news of his disgrace, brought on by the jealousies which his great services
raised, and that, not less painful, the news of the arrival of the first Mexican viceroy, sent
to replace him in the command.
138
GULF OF CALIFORNIA.
coast of Lower California. Outside is a pearl fishery, at which numerous
Yaqui Indians are employed; they bring up the shells from a depth of 8
fathoms. Vessels from San Blas, Mazatlan, and Guaymas, often come to
purchase shell.
A vessel anxious to keep on the coast of Mexico, or in its neighbourhood,
during the bad season, cannot do better than run over to the Bay of La Paz
on the West shore of the Gulf of California, and but little to the North of
Mazatlan. This splendid harbour is formed by the main land of Lower Ca-
lifornia on the starboard hand going in, and a long chain of islands with
shallow passages between on the port hand.
between on the port hand. The most eastern island is Es-
piritu Santo.
North end of Espiritu Santo, lat. 24° 36′ N., and long. 110° 22′ W., with a
large rock due North of it 5 miles.
In approaching this bay from Mazatlan the Island of Cerralbo will be first
made, high and mountainous; North end lat. 24° 23′ N., long, of South end
109° 45′ W. From it Espiritu Santo will be seen bearing about W. by N.
The bay is at least 30 miles deep, and for the first 20 miles a deep bold shore
on either hand, no bottom with 20 fathoms close to the islands. Large ves-
sels anchor under the Island of San Juan de Nepomuceno; but small ones
anchor within half a mile of the village of La Paz. Fish, water, turtle,
cheese, and fruits are to be obtained here; and cattle also in the wet season
when pasturage is to be found on the coast. Snakes are very numerous and
venomous.
Capt. Richmond says (1854) that the lead is not to be trusted in La Paz
Bay, as the water shoals very suddenly from 20 fathoms into danger on its
western shore, as well as against the islands to the East. The channel be-
tween Espiritu Santo Island and Pt. S. Lorenzo is very narrow, not more
than two or three ships lengths' wide, and there is but one channel, not two,
as marked on the chart.
At La Paz, the Rio Yaqui, and Guaymas, eight or ten small vessels, of 20
to 40 tons, are fitted out for the pearl fishing. The divers are all Yaquis
Indians. The fishing begins in May, and ends in October. The principal
pearl banks in the gulf are in the Bay of La Paz and near Loreto, the S.W.
point of the Isle Carmen, Fuerto Escondido, Los Coronados, Los Danzantes,
San Bruno, and S. Marcos Islands.
Cerralbo Island lies to the S.E. of La Paz Bay, as above stated. Captain
Richmond says that there is a rock about 6 miles N.W. of the North end of
it. According to the charts there is a rock, 10 or 12 feet high, at 9 miles
N.W. of the island, and another sunken rock about midway between, called
the Queen Rock. Besides this another breaker is shown, so that with all
these reports, which have not been properly verified, great caution is
necessary.
BAY OF SAN JOSE DEL CABO.
139
BAY OF SAN JOSE del Cabo* is open from the South to N.N.E., and
is very dangerous, when, in bad weather, the winds prevail from this
quarter; the bottom being bad holding ground, and the anchorage so near
the shore, that there is no chance of getting off with the wind on shore. It
follows, therefore, that this bay ought not to be frequented, except from the
end of November until May, the season when winds from West and N.W.,
and fine weather, prevail throughout the gulf, as well as on all the Mexican
coast. It is at this period that it is visited by the whalers and merchantmen
trading to Lower California; but these latter prefer the port of La Paz,
before described, which is more secure.
It was visited by H.M.S. Herald, in June, 1848, and Capt. Henry Trollope,
R.N., thus describes it.
The Bay of San Jose is an indifferent roadstead at the extreme of the
Californian Peninsula. It is entirely exposed from N.E. by the E. to S.S.W.;
the water is deep even close to the shore, and a hole having 40 or 50 fathoms
exists in the best part. It is, however, a convenient place for obtaining
water, as well as for fresh beef and vegetables. Fruit, such as figs and
oranges, milk, Mexican cheese, and one or two other articles may be pro-
cured from the village, which is about three-quarters of a mile from the
stream. One of the marks for the bay will be the high range of hills run-
ning to the N.E.; the remarkable thumb peak of San Lazaro standing up
like a pinnacle is the highest of the range, while the valley of the river is
clearly defined between this range on the left and a much lower range of
pinnacles, craters, and flat table-lands on the right. The coast for 5 or 6
leagues to the N.E. is free from danger. Running along the coast from the
eastward, Punta Gorda (the northernmost point of the bay) is too remark-
able to escape notice-a flat white hill of moderate height, perhaps 150 or
180 feet high, with several pyramidal hills to the left, particularly a group
of three in one with a flat-topped crater-like hill or truncated cone near it,
and a flat level plain with a single conical hill in it to the right; the long
playa, or sandy beach, will then be seen, running along which you will soon
distinguish the stream and a flagstaff on a slightly elevated mound. The
coast may in any part be approached without danger, having 5 or 6 fathoms
close-to, but deepening very rapidly. To avoid letting go your anchor in the
50-fathom hole, keep the flagstaff open to the westward of the high peak of
San Lazaro, or thumb, as we call it, the latter bearing N.W. by W., when
a vessel may anchor in 13 to 15 fathoms, soft mud, three-quarters of a mile
* At the mission of San José in the southern part of the peninsula, the learned Abbe
Chappe d'Auteroche died, whom the Royal Academy of Sciences sent to observe the transit
of Venus in 1769. He accurately determined the position of Cape San Lucas, which
served as a landfall and departure for the ships for China and Europe.
140
LOWER CALIFORNIA.
from the shore. The river is 50 yards to the left of the flagstaff, and at low
water, when there is but little surf on the beach, affords an excellent supply.
It is, however, liable to interruptions; strong N.W. breezes raise a heavy
surf on the beach, rendering landing somewhat difficult. However, with a
party on shore filling and a hauling-line for the casks, we completed very
expeditiously, getting forty tons on board in thirty hours. The sea at high
water percolates through the sand, rendering the water brackish and unfit
for use. This can be remedied by going higher up the stream, but the labour
is of course more. Horses are good and easily obtained. There are no re-
mains of the Franciscan Mission of San José, the origin of the place; and
the village is but a poor straggling place, which, I believe, almost grew up
during the war with America. The flagstaff is in lat. 23° 3′ 15" N., long.
109° 37′ 53″ W., variation 2° 28' 53" easterly. Off a rocky cliff between
Capes Palma and Pafia, there is a shoal about one mile off the shore,
which we did not examine. The cliff is in lat. 23° 26′ 53″ N., long. 109°
23′ 30″ W.
The Bay of San Lucas offers safe anchorage and shelter from westerly
winds, but is exposed to a very heavy and most dangerous sea from the
S.W. The soundings are very irregular, and the anchorage, by reason of
its great depth in the centre, is completely a lee shore.
The village consisted of four houses at the time of Captain Sir Edward
Belcher's visit, and water, wood, cattle, cheese, oranges, and pumpkins were
obtained. The water, which is procured from wells, is sweet when drawn,
and very bright, but is impregnated with muriate of soda and nitre, which
pervade the soil. It consequently soon putrefies on board. The country
about Cape San Lucas is mountainous, and probably granitic. The plains.
as well as the hills, are very abundant in cacti.
The navigator has no hidden dangers to fear; all are above water. After
rounding the Frayles from the westward, he may safely stand for the houses,
dropping his anchor in 15 fathoms. The bad season is supposed to commence
in June, and terminates on the 1st of November.
A word of caution in anchoring here may be given. The Sulphur, on
shortening sail in coming to, had 10 fathoms, and immediately after they
had no bottom with 88 fathoms, just as they were about letting go the an-
chor. This shows the necessity of keeping the lead on the bottom before
letting go an anchor, or you may lose it.
CAPE SAN LUCAS, the southern extremity of the peninsula, is in lat.
22° 52′ N., long. 109° 53′ W. It gradually, though not very regularly,
descends from the very broken and uneven range of mountains which extend
from the N.W., and terminates in its South extremity in a hummock of low,
or very moderately elevated, land, of a rocky, sterile appearance.
The coast between Cape San Lucas and the Island of Santa Margarita, a
distance of 130 miles, is in many parts composed of steep, white, rocky
GULF OF MAGDALENA-ALMEJAS BAY.
141
cliffs; the country rising with a very broken and uneven surface to the
ridge of stupendous mountains previously mentioned, and which are visible
at a great distance into the ocean. The shores jut out into small projecting
points that terminate in abrupt cliffs, and having less elevated land be-
hind them, gives them at first the appearance of being detached islands;
but on a nearer approach this does not seem to be the case. The general
face of the country is not very inviting, being destitute of trees and other
vegetable productions.
After having doubled Cape San Lucas, and proceeding along the coast, at
a short league from it, you find the mission of Todos los Santos, which a
few years ago still contained a few Indians. There is an anchorage,
with a small rivulet where water can be procured, and also provisions could
be had.
At the parallel of 24° the mountains form a promontory, surmounted by
three peaks, the truncated summits of which resemble tables, and which are,
from this reason, called Las Mesas de Narvaez.
From this point the coast runs nearly N.W. to the large island of Santa
Margarita, forming the South entrance of the immense bay of La Mag-
dalena.
The GULF of MAGDALENA is an extensive inland sea, whose existence
was scarcely suspected in Europe prior to the visit of Capt. Sir E. Belcher,
in 1839, when he minutely surveyed it, and the fine chart recently published
is the result of that survey. Nearly at the same time the French frigate
La Venus, under Du Petit Thouars, also surveyed its shores, and his plan,
much less elaborate than that of our English hydrographers, forms a portion
of the atlas accompanying the voyage.
It may properly be said to consist of two extensive bays: Almejas Bay to
the S.E., and Magdalena Bay, the principal, to the N.W.
SANTA MARGARITA ISLAND, which forms the seaward face of the
greater part of these two bays, is about 22 miles in length, by 2½ in
average breadth. In its centre it is so low, that at a distance it might be
taken for two separate islands, the northern and southern portions being
high land.
Cape Tosco is its S.E. point, and is bold-to. Four miles N.N.W. from it
is Mount Santa Margarita, about 2,000 feet in height. To the East of it is
the southern and intricate entrance to the two bays, through the Rehusa
Channel, formed by the low sandy extremity of Cresciente Island, called Sta.
Marina Point. The tide runs very strongly through this narrow channel,
which is much embarrassed by sandy patches nearly and quite awash.
No instructions can therefore be given for this, and will be scarcely ever
required.
ALMEJAS BAY is about 12 miles in extent to the N.W., and is divided
from the principal bay by a narrow but clear and deep channel, formed by
142
LOWER CALIFORNIA.
a sandy projection from the main land on the N.E. The extremity of this
is called Lengua (Tongue) Point, and connected with it is an extensive low
island, named Mangrove Island.
Southward of this sandy tract, the island of Santa Margarita is divided
into two separate tracts of mountainous land by a low sandy neck. From
the chart these points would seem to be the effect of currents, probably in
combination with the geological changes hereafter noticed.
The North side of Santa Margarita Island, from this strait, trends nearly
West, true, to its N.W. point, Cape Redondo, off which, to the distance of a
quarter of a mile, some sunken rocks extend. About midway between its
extremities, on the seaward face, is Pequena Bay, lying against the low tract
previously mentioned; Cape Judas forms its N.W. extremity. Two species
of tortoises are found on the island, one of which is very good eating, but
the shell is worthless; the other, on the contrary, is unfit for food, but the
shell is excellent and valuable.
The entrance to Magdalena Bay lies between Cape Redondo and Entrada
Point, the southern point of the San Lazaro peninsula; like the opposite
side, some sunken rocks lie off it. Mount Isabel, 1,270 ft. high, lies 3½ miles
N.W. of it. The width of the entrance is 2½ miles, and the depth between
the head 15 to 20 fathoms. At the foot of Mount Isabel, within the bay, a
fresh-water marsh is marked on the chart. This is 3 miles within the
entrance point. Five miles further on, on the N.E. face of the peninsula,
and near to where the high land sinks to the long sandy neck connected
with it northward, is the anchorage under Delgada Point; here Captain
Belcher established his observatory. This is in lat. 38° 24′ 18" N., long.
112° 6′ 21″ N. This was at the foot of a hill 600 feet in height, according
to M. de Tessan's chart.
Northward of this the bay becomes very shallow, but has some deeper
channels extending northward, separated by extensive shoals, which have
received the names of Du Petit Thouars, Tessan, and La Venus, the French
surveyors and their ship. As there can be no inducement whatever for
entering them, no further notice here is necessary.
In the account of his exploration, Captain Sir Edward Belcher gives the
following description of his progress :—
I was fully prepared to have found, as the name imported, an extensive
bay, but on entering the heads, which are about 2 miles asunder, no land
could be discerned from the deck, from N.W. to N.E. or East; and even
after entering, it was quite a problem, in this new sea, where to seek for
anchorage, our depths at first, even near the shore, ranging from 17 to 30
fathoms. However, as the prevailing winds appeared to be westerly, I
determined on beating to windward, in which it eventually proved I was
correct. About 4 p.m. we reached a very convenient berth in 10 fathoms,
with a very sheltered position for our observatory. Preparations were im-
LOWER CALIFORNIA.
143
mediately made for the examination of this extensive sea, or what I shall in
future term the Gulf of Magdalena.
It is probable that this part of the coast formerly presented three detached
islands, viz., St. Lazarus range, Magdalena range, and Margarita range,
with one unnamed sand island, and numerous sand islets. It is not impro-
bable that its estuary meets those from La Paz, forming this portion of
Southern California into one immense archipelago.
The first part of our expedition led us up the northern branch of what
held out some prospect of a fresh-water river, particularly as frequent marks
of cattle were noticed. In the prosecution of this part of our survey, we
noticed that the St. Lazarus range is only connected by a very narrow belt
of sand between the two bays, and that the summits of some of these sand
hills were covered in a most extraordinary manner by piles of fragile shells,
which resembled those found recently in the gulf. At elevations of 50 and
60 ft. these minute and fragile shells were found perfect; but on the beaches,
either seaward or within, not a shell was visible. This is the more extraor-
dinary, as these sandy wastes are constantly in motion, and drowning every-
thing else, and yet these shells are always exposed. On digging beneath
them to erect marks no beds of shells occurred, nothing but plain sand. It
was further remarkable, that they appeared to be collected in families,
principally arca, venus, cardium, and murex; when ostrea appeared they
were by themselves.
The cliffs throughout the gulf abound in organic remains, and I cannot
but believe that the same cause has produced the above unaccountable phe-
nomena, which I witnessed throughout a range of at least 90 miles.
Having explored the westernmost estuary, about 17 miles North of our
observatory, until no end appeared of its intricacies, I resolved on attempt-
ing a second, which afforded a wider entrance, about 4 miles beyond the
last, and it still offered ample scope for employment, the advance boats
being at that moment in 4 fathoms, and distant heads in view; but finding
no hope of reaching fresh water, I determined on adhering to its main
outlines.
By November 9th (1839), we had reached the East end of the first gulf,
and found the channel or strait connecting them not more than a quarter of
a mile wide. I was sanguine in expecting that we should discover a safe
channel out by the East end of Margarita, but I found that our boats, and,
upon emergency, the Starling, might have passed out, but it was far too
difficult and doubtful for the ship.
We had frequently seen, indistinctly, the outlines of very high mountains
to the eastward, distant 50 or 60 miles; but on this day I could detect
breaks which indicated water-courses between them, and could plainly
follow out yellow breaks of cliffs as far as the eye could trace inland. I
have not the slightest doubt that these estuaries flow past them, and pro-
144
LOWER CALIFORNIA.
bably to the very base of the most distant mountain, even into the Gulf of
California. As I am informed that there are no fresh streams in the district
of La Paz, and that similar esteros run westerly from that neighbourhood, it
is not improbable that they meet. Although the solution of this question
may not be commercially important, it is highly interesting in a geogra-
phical point of view.
After all the time expended (18 days) on this immense sheet of water, it
will natually be enquired, what advantages does the port offer? The reply
is, at the present moment, shelter; and from several water-courses, which
were nearly dry at the time of our visit, it is evident that very powerful
streams scour the valleys in the winter season, which, in this region, is
reckoned between May and October.
Fuel can be easily obtained in the estuary (mangrove).
As a port for refit after any disaster it is also very convenient; and for
this purpose either our northern or southern observatory bays may be
selected. The latter would afford better shelter; but the former is certainly
more convenient, the access to it being entirely free from shoals.
In war it would be a most eligible rendezvous, particularly if watching the
coasts of Mexico or California, as no one could prevent the formation of an
establishment without adequate naval force, and the nature of the country
itself would not maintain an opposing party.
The island of Margarita would afford an excellent site for a deposit for
naval stores. Martello towers on the heads of entrance would completely
command it, and, excepting on the outside, no force could be landed.
Water would doubtless flow into wells, of which we had proof in spots
where the wild beasts had scraped holes; but from some (no doubt remov-
able) causes, it was intensely bitter. There is nothing in the geological
constitution of the hill to render it so.
The ranges of hills composing the three suites of mountains vary from
1,500 to 2,000 feet.
It is high water, full and change, in Magdalena Bay, at 7h 35m; rise 6 ft.
3 inches; variation 9° 15′ E.-(1838).
From Entrada Point, the entrance to Magdalena Bay, to Cape Corso,
which is at the North end of the elevated part of the peninsula, the distance
is 9 miles, the breadth of the peninsula being here, on an average, about
2 miles.
From Cape Corso to the S.E. point of Cape Lazaro, the distance is 7
miles, and the outer coast is formed by the long, narrow, sandy neck which
separates the ocean from the entrance channels in the North part of Mag-
dalena Bay, before noticed. This recedes 4 or 5 miles from the general line
of the coast, and forms under Cape Lazaro, that is, to the southward of it,
the Bay of Santa Maria.
Cape San Lazaro is in lat. 24° 44′ 50", and is 1,300 feet in height;
BALLENAS BAY.
145
hence the coast trends to the East and northward, and is steep-to as far
as the small bay (Pequena Bay) formed by Point Santo Domingo, in about
lat. 26°.
The ALIJOS ROCKS, or Farallones Rocks, a cluster of four high, de-
tached, and remarkable rocks, lie off 140 miles from this part of the coast.
They are in lat. 24° 51′, and long. 115° 47'. This position was accurately
determined by Admiral Du Petit Thouars, who saw them for the second time.
They will be again noticed hereafter, but, from their dangerous character,
they must be alluded to here.
The coast beyond Point Santo Domingo trends to the N.W. for nearly 20
leagues, and then turns abruptly for 10 leagues to the S.E. to Point Abreojos,
forming Ballenas Bay, in lat. 26° 42′ N., long. 113° 34′ W.
BALLENAS BAY is entirely open to the South. The soundings in the
bay are quite regular, and extend a long way off shore, gradually decreasing
to 3 fathoms, within a mile of the beach. With the strong coast winds a
heavy swell sets in which causes a high surf along its shores. Whales of the
humpback" species make this a favourite feeding-ground, on account of
the myriads of small fish found here. In the fine season, countless flocks of
pelicans are seen making awkward plunges to catch their swimming food.
At 15 miles eastward of Point Abreojos is a small estero.
The shores of the main land form the eastern boundary of the bay of
Ballenas, where in lat. 26° 45', is found the entrance to a lagoon. It was
first seen in 1857 by Capt. Pool, of the whaling barque Sarah Warren. In
1859 a whaling fleet first entered it.
The main branch of the lagoon is 2 miles wide, from shore to shore, at its
mouth; running North for 3 miles, it then turns a little to the West, and
doubles its width 6 miles from the bar; then gradually contracting, it comes
to an end 8 miles further up, making the whole length 14 miles. A small
branch, making from the South part of the entrance, and taking a more
easterly course, runs through a low flat country, a distance of 12 or 15
miles, where it reaches a high table land. Another small estero, 15 miles
further South, emptying into the sea, joins the southern branch of the main
lagoon.
Near the head of this sheet of water are two islands, not over 4 miles in
length and 1 in width. Both are very low. The upper island, on its highest
part, has a growth of trees and low bushes, which gives it a pleasant con-
trast with the surrounding country. The southern island is quite barren;
flocks of grey gulls, pelicans and cormorants, literally covered its shell
beaches. Around the shores large numbers of huge turtle lay sleeping, and
shoals of cowfish and porpoises played.
The face of the country, immediately in the vicinity of this inland water,
on either hand, is low, quite level, and extremely barren. To the south-
eastward rises a long table-land, to the height of a thousand feet or more,
North Pacific.
!
L
146
LOWER CALIFORNIA.
and then comes a wild mountain country as far as the eye can see. To the
N.E. there is a belt of level land, that appears to extend through the penin-
sula to the Gulf of California.
The native name of this lagoon is Susa Maria. In a northerly direction
from its head, distant 35 miles, rises a mountain, showing three swells of
land at its summit; it is called San Ignacio, and at its foot is a mission bear-
ing the same name. As you view this mountain from the coast, a still
higher elevation is seen, standing alone, with rounded peak.
The entrance to this fine body of water is shoal, narrow, and extremely
dangerous, on account of the strong currents running in different directions
at different stages of the tide. Seven feet of water only is found at low
tide, the rise and fall being about 6 feet. A heavy swell usually rolls on the
bar at full and change of the moon, and it is only practicable for small
vessels of light draught.
Point Abreojos, the N.W. point of Ballenas Bay, is quite low, and a small
creek lies immediately North of it. An outlying reef of rocks extends 6
miles from the low land of the point. Abreojos ("Open-your-eyes") seems
a fitting name for it. There is a good passage between it and the main,
which may be used in case of necessity, although it is not generally known.
The coast northward of Point Abreojos is low near the shore line; but the
beach fronting it, being composed of white sand, is seen a considerable dis-
tance at sea, contrasting with the brown clay cliffs and banks.
At 48 miles beyond Point Abreojos is Asuncion Island, lat. 27° 8' N., long.
114° 18′ W., a small isolated spot, once the resort of vast herds of sea
animals, and therefore was covered with inferior guano. At 8 miles further
is another and similar island, San Roque, which is somewhat lower, but
now unfrequented. The coast is thence clear for 40 miles to the north-
westward.
SAN BARTOLOME BAY, or Turtle Bay, as it also called by the whalers,
lies to the South of Point San Eugenio. The bay is formed by a high range
of loose cliffs on the North and a fine gravelly bay`on the East, and a
coarse sandy tongue connects a high peninsula, or island at high water, in
its centre, forming a third southern bay. From this peninsula rocks extend
northerly, partly under water, jutting into the heart of the bay, and forming
a safe land-locked position, having 5 fathoms within.
The sheltered position where the whalers resort to cooper their oil is within
a range of reefs which divides the bay, from seaward, into two parts. The
anchorage taken by H.M.S. Sulphur was in 7 fathoms, sheltered from all
but S.W. winds, but bad holding-ground. The surrounding land is high
and mountainous.
The place of observation on the northern head of the bay is in lat. 27° 40
N., long. 114° 51' 20" W. Wood may be procured here-in case of extreme
necessity-by searching for low green bushes in the level land about the
CERROS OR CEDROS ISLAND.
147
shores; the roots are found running near the top of the ground 8 or 10 feet
long and often six inches through; they burn readily, and produce the re-
quired heat.
In proceeding along the coast, the Point San Eugenio, which appears to
form but one promontory with Natividad Island, lying off its western ex-
tremity, should be avoided.
The Island of Natividad lies S. E., distant 14 miles from the peaked
mountain on Cerros Island. Its highest point is 700 feet above the sea; its
length 5 miles, and not over 1 mile at its broadest part. It is extremely
barren; neither shrub nor tree is found here; and it is only resorted to by
large numbers of sea-fowl, as a breeding-place. From an islet off the N.W.
end, there has been several cargoes of guano taken. Between Natividad and
Point Eugenio (the S.W. point of the bay of San Sebastian Vizcaino), a reef,
on which in bad weather there are heavy breakers, lies 1 mile to the east-
ward of Seal Rock; the channel between Natividad and the main, is not,
therefore, so safe as is generally supposed, as in fine weather it breaks only
at intervals.
Here, as at Cape San Lazaro, the whalers come, passing by night between
the island and the main land, and anchoring against the point, which is
very low. The passage between the island and this point is 7 or 8 miles wide.
In approaching from the South, a tolerably high mountain called Morro
Hermoso, shows itself to the south-eastward of the point. In coming from
the North the islands of Cerros and San Benito will be a sufficient guide.
To the East of Point San Eugenio, the coast recedes considerably for the
space of a degree of latitude, forming the great bay of Sebastian Vizcaino,
in which, in lat. 28° 56', is the small bay of Pescado Blanco, formed by a
point 5 or 6 miles in extent, which projects to the southward.
CERROS or CEDROS ISLAND forms the most western side of the bay
of San Sebastian Vizcaino. It is from 25 to 30 miles long, and its South
point is in lat. 28° 3′ N., long. 115° 11′ W. It is an island of mountains
throughout its whole extent, being a mass of high, abrupt peaks, the highest
of which is 2,500 feet above the level of the sea, and may be distinctly seen,
in clear weather, 60 miles. On a near approach, the sombre, barren appear-
ance of all brought to view is anything but inviting. Many of the southern
slopes present a dark red hue, interspersed with high variegated cliffs, that
give a little change to the otherwise dull scene. On landing, one is at once
fully sensible of the extreme dry atmosphere prevailing; still there must be,
occasionally, heavy rains, producing mountain torrents.
On the N.E. side, about 3 miles from the extreme North end, a low sandy
point makes out; to the southward of this is good anchorage during the
prevailing coast winds. In a ravine near it is a small stream of fresh water;
and likewise in several of the valleys leading from the shore line to the
southward, water may be found within a mile of the beach. At one of these
L 2
148
LOWER CALIFORNIA.
&
places it is of excellent quality. The only practicable place, however, for a
ship to obtain a large supply, is on the S.E. side, where there is a spring
running among rushes at the foot of a high peak close to the shore.
Anchorage may be had off this spring, within 2 cables' lengths of the
shore, in 20 fathoms of water; but a much better place for a ship to lie is 2
miles further South, off a low shingle beach.
A vessel can always find shelter from the N.W. winds on the South side
of the island, in depths varying from 6 to 25 fathoms; these winds blow
with the regularity of a "trade," from May to October, and the only pre-
caution to be kept in mind in choosing an anchorage is to avoid fixed kelp.
From October to May the winds are generally light and the weather de-
lightful. Occasionally a strong "norther," or a light S.E. gale, blows the
first part of the winter, and strong gales from the N.W. again set in about
the 1st of May.
The San Benito Islands are three in number; the westerly one in lat.
28° 12′ N., long. 115° 46′ W. Two of these are moderately high, the middle
one is quite low. They lay 15 miles to the westward of Cerros, and are only
separated from each other by narrow passages of water, where boats may
pass in safety, but not practicable for large vessels. The whole length of
the three islands is not more than 10 miles. The western one is the largest.
It is about 3 miles wide by 5 in length; the other two being less than half
that extent. They are all very barren, affording neither wood nor water.
The seal and sea elephant are the only animals found upon them.
Anchorage may be had on the S.E. side of the middle island, in from 10
to 20 fathoms water, but it is rough, rocky bottom, and affords poor holding
ground.
In 1853 there was found on the S.W. end of the largest of this group, the
remains of what was supposed to be a Japanese junk.
SAN SEBASTIAN VIZCAINO BAY,* an extensive indentation of the
coast, lies within Cerros Island; but we have no nautical particulars of it,
nor does it appear to possess any point of special interest.
Playa Maria Bay.-Northward of Pescado Blanco Bay, in lat. 28° 55′ N.,
long. 114° 31′ W., is Santa Maria Point, to the East of which is Playa
Maria Bay, the limits of which may be taken as Black Point, about 6
miles S.E. by compass from Santa Maria Point. The bay is open, but
clear; and inland, 2 miles from the head of it, is a hill called the Nipple,
1,132 feet high; and in the North part of the bay, on the coast, is what
* Sebastian Vizcaino, from whom this name is derived, was charged by the Spanish vice-
roy of Mexico, Don Gaspar de Zuniga, Count de Monterey, to survey these coasts. He set
sail on this commission from Acapulco, May 5th, 1602, with four vessels, and among others
discovered and named the Port of Monterey, which has remained the capital of this
country up to recent times.
SAN SEBASTIAN VIZCAINO BAY.
149
Captain Kellet calls Station Peak, 256 feet high. The variation line in 1847
was 8' 44' E.
We have no particulars of the coast northward of this, further than what
the Spanish charts afford us, until we come to San Geronimo Island, whose
position is determined as lat. 29° 48′, long. 115° 47'. The next place is Port
San Quentin.
PORT SAN QUENTIN is the name applied or chosen by Sir Edward
Belcher for the harbour, which, under several Spanish and English
charts, is called the Bay of San Francisco. This is much preferable, as
the triple repetition of this name on this coast, applied by the Spaniards
in honour of their patron saint, peculiarly so regarded by the navigators in
the Pacific, has led to confusion. Captain Sir Edward Belcher's plan does
not notice former synonymes, but we take the following extracts as applying
to this spot:-
Cape San Quentin (or Virgenes), the western point of the Port San Quen-
tin, is a long, low, projecting point of land. From this it takes a course of
about N.N.W. for 8 miles, to Point Zuniga of Captain Vancouver. This
portion of the coast consists of five remarkable hummocks, nearly of equal
height and size, moderately elevated, with two smaller ones close to the
water side, the whole rising from a tract of very low and nearly level land,
forming a very projecting promontory. This was named by Vancouver,
Point Five Hummocks, who says that it is as conspicuous and remarkable
as any projecting point the land affords.
In coming down the coast from the northward, he had taken it for a series
of detached islands.
The following are Sir Edward Belcher's observations on the port:
"Port San Quentin does not afford anything equal to San Diego, but it is
more secure when within, and might afford fresh water.
The sandy point on the West side of the entrance is situated in lat. 30° 22′
N., long. 115° 56' 33" W. High water, full and change, 9h 5m, rise 9 feet.
The whole coast is dreary, being either sand hills or volcanic mountains,
five of which, very remarkably placed, caused one of the early navigators to
call it the Bay of Five Hills. It is the Bay of the Virgins of the former, and
Port San Quentin of the later Spanish surveyors.* As it appears engraved
under the latter, on an extensive scale (which misled us and caused our
touching), I have preferred that name for it.
The Island and Paps of Las Virgenes (Cenizas ?) are situated to sea-
ward, about 2 miles from what has been termed Observatory Peak in our
plan.
* The North promontory is called, by Vancouver, Point Five Hummocks, as before men-
tioned. In his chart, the bay to the North of Point Zuniga, the North end of the pro-
montory, is called the Bay de los Virgenes.
150
LOWER CALIFORNIA.
Point Zuniga, according to Vancouver's chart (he passed near to it), is the
North extreme of what he called Five Hummock Point, and is 6 or 7 miles
N.W. by N. of Cape San Quentin.
Cenizas Island, or S. Hilario Island or Virgenes, of Sir E. Belcher, lies
off Point Zuniga about 3 miles. It is 4 miles in circuit, of a triangular
form. Its western side is formed of steep high cliffs, but its N.E. and S.E.
sides terminate in low sandy land, extending toward the continent.
CAPE COLNETT is about 30 miles northward of Cenizas Island. The
interval forms the large bay of San Ramon, or De los Virgenes. Cape Col-
nett is very remarkable from its shape and appearance, as likewise by its
forming a bay on its N.W. and another on its S.E. side. It was thus called
by Vancouver, who says:-"This promontory bore a very singular character
as we passed. The cliffs already described as composing it are, about
the middle, between their summit and the water side, divided horizontally
nearly into two equal parts, and formed of different materials; the lower
part seemed to consist of sand or clay, of a very smooth surface, and
light colour. The upper part was evidently of a rocky substance, with
a very uneven surface, and of a dark colour. This seemed to be again
divided into narrow columns by vertical strata. These apparent divisions,
as well horizontally as vertically, existed with great uniformity all round
the promontory."
From Cape Colnett to Point Grajero, the distance is about 50 miles. At 3
leagues S. by E. of Point Grajero, lie a cluster of detached rocks (Solitarios
Island), about half a league from a small projecting point, that forms a bay
or cove on each side of it.
At Point Grajero the coast takes a sharp turn to S.E., forming the Bay of
Todos los Santos. Off the cape some rocky islets and rocks extend N.W. 1242
W., a league distant.
4
The coast northward of Todos los Santos Bay consists of high, steep,
rocky cliffs, rising abruptly from the sea, and composing a craggy, moun-
tainous country, extending in a N.W. by N. direction for about 10 leagues
to Point San Miguel, when it assumes a more northerly direction, or N. by
W. & W., for 6 leagues. The shores still continue to be of steep rocky
cliffs, which in general rise, though not very abruptly, to a very hilly
country, remarkable for three conspicuous mountains, entirely detached from
one another, rising in quick ascent at a little distance from the shore, on a
nearly plain and even surface. The northernmost of these presented the ap-
pearance of a table in all directions from the ocean; the middle one termi-
nated in a sharp peak; and the southernmost in an irregular form. The
centre one of these remarkable mountains lies from Port San Diego, S.E. by
S., distant 9 leagues, and, at a distance, may serve to point out that port.
They were called the Tables, or Mesas de Juan Gomez.
At the South end of San Diego Bay is the boundary mark placed between
THE CORONADOS.
151
the Mexican and United States territories; and to the southward, about 8
miles off, is the small cluster called Los Coronados by Vizcaino, in 1602, but
they were discovered by Cabrillo in 1542. They were named after one of
the governors under Cortes.
The CORONADOS, belonging to Mexico, lie about 7 miles off the coast,
and are a group of high, bold, and abrupt rocks and islets, of which the
largest is 15 miles S. by E. from Point Loma, about 1 mile in length, by
one third of a mile in breadth. It is a wedge-shaped mass, 575 feet high,
entirely destitute of trees, though in the rainy season it has abundance of
gaudily-coloured wild flowers. There is anchorage about one quarter of a
mile to the eastward of the islet, and but one difficult landing place. Accord-
ing to George Davidson, Esq., it is in lat. 33° 23′ 46″ N., long. 117° 13′
21" W.
On the West and N.W. sides of the islet, and about half a mile distant,
lie two smaller ones, or rather two masses of bare rock, 50 feet high, the
favourite resort of enormous sea-elephants. Excellent anchorage is said to
be found in the vicinity. The smaller of the two prominent islets is 23 miles
N. 58° W. from the larger. It is a huge barren rock, with a very sharp
summit.
In coming from the South this group affords a good mark for making
San Diego, although before being up with them, Point Loma shows dis-
tinctly.
( 152 )
CHAPTER IV.
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
In the commencement of the preceding chapter, some remarks are given
which may be taken in connection with the present subject. Until May 30,
1848, the countries respectively denominated Upper and Lower, or New and
Old, California, were under one dominion, subject to the same laws, and
under the influence of the same social system; intimately connected with
each other morally, and having the same origin in a political sense, their
histories may be considered as identical. When, however, a new order of
things became established, and Upper California was ceded to the dominion
of the United States, while the Lower Peninsula remained an appendage to
Mexico, a wonderful change took place in the importance of these two terri-
tories, not so much arising from the change of masters as from the great
event of the present century-the discovery of the gold produce of the basins
of the rivers falling into the Bay of San Francisco.
The first discovery or exploration of this part of the American coast was
made in 1540, under the orders of Don Antonio de Mendoça, the viceroy of
Mexico, who despatched Francisco Vasquez Coronado by land, and Francisco
Alarcon by sea, in search of the supposed Strait of Anian, which, it was
said, communicated with the Atlantic Ocean. Alarcon reached the 36th
parallel (South of Monterey), but was then forced to return.
The same
project was resumed in 1542 by Rodrigues de Cabrillo, a Portuguese in the
Spanish service. He reached the latitude of 44°. His principal discovery
was a projecting point in lat. 40°, to which he gave the name Cape Mendo-
gino, by which it is still known.
The Spaniards seem to have forgotton these discoveries, till, in 1578, Sir
Francis Drake passed the Strait of Magalhaens, then scarcely known, and
traversed the great ocean from South to North, reaching the N.W. coast of
America in lat. 48° North. He then coasted the shore downwards, and dis-
covered the harbour now bearing his name to the N.W. of San Francisco,
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
153
where he made some stay. He here formally took possession of the country
in the name of Elizabeth, Queen of England, imposing the name of New
Albion on it.
The expeditions of Drake, of Cavendish in 1587, and of Van Noort in
1598, gave rise to considerable jealousy with the Spaniards. They deter-
mined to colonize these coasts. Accordingly, Don Gaspar de Zuniga, Count
de Monterey, the viceroy of Mexico, despatched Sebastian Vizcaino, in 1602,
whose most northern important discovery was the harbour, which, in honour
of the viceroy, he named the Puerto de Monterey. The Spaniards had found
several missions on the Californian Peninsula, as has been before mentioned,
and the ruins of these great establishments still remain to testify as to their
magnitude and importance. On June 25th, 1767, the Emperor Charles III.
abolished the Society of Jesus (Jesuits) in Lower California, and gave their
property to the Franciscan order. Sixteen of the monks of this latter fra-
ternity landed at Loreto, in Lower California, in 1768, under the Visitador,
Don Josef de Galvez; and soon after they established presidios and missions
of San Carlos de Monterey, and the same at San Diego, in such a way as to
protect all the country, adding, as an intermediate point, the mission of San
Buenaventura. In the founding these missions, for which Don Vincente
Vila set sail in January, 1769, the vessels met with the greatest difficulties
from adverse winds; but they were overcome. All this, however, did not
make known to the explorers the existence of the finest harbour of all, that
of San Francisco, which was subsequently discovered by a land expedition, in
1770.
When the revolution in 1823 occurred, which separated California from
Old Spain, a fresh order of things was established, and the country was de-
prived of their religious establishments; the consequent ruin of these once
flourishing communities naturally followed, and nothing can be more de-
plorable than the subsequent accounts of their downward progress.
The result of the warfare between the United States and the republic of
Mexico was the cession by the latter of the territories of California and New
Mexico to the United States Government. The exchange of ratification
of this treaty took place on May 30th, 1848.
Among the settlers who had introduced themselves into Upper California,
after the revolution, was Captain Suter, by birth a Swiss, and who had been
a lieutenant in the Swiss guards during the time of Charles X. of France.
He had obtained a large grant on the Sacramento River. He fixed his
abode and fortification at the head of the tide on the Sacramento, calling it
New Helvetia. He constructed a water-mill here, and after one of the
freshets to which the stream is liable, on examining the earth brought down
by the waters, some particles of gold were picked up, the discovery being
almost purely accidental. Further search was made, and an immense quan-
154
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
tity of the precious metal, no doubt, was collected.* Ere long this fact
acquired publicity, and immediately almost the entire male population of
California flocked to the gold region, being the pioneers for the vast influx
from every part of the Pacific and neighbouring countries, increasing the
population one hundredfold in the course of a very few months. We cannot
trace out here the progress of the gold movement, which received its first
impetus in 1848. This very singular chapter in the world's history has many
illustrations in other places.
The population of California, a very mixed one, is now probably not less
than half a million. In 1860 it was 379,994, being an increase of 3101 per
cent from 1850. Its area, according to the Report of the U.S. Government
Land Office in 1866, was 188,981 square English miles.
Immediately after its accession to the United States measures were taken
by the Government to commence a complete survey of the coast. Accord-
ingly, in the autumn of 1848 a surveying party was organised for field work,
and the schooner Ewing, under Lieutenant W. A. Bartlett, U.S.N., was
despatched in 1849, and subsequently a general reconaissance of the whole
coast was completed. Commander Jas. Alden published, in 1853, the re-
sults of this preliminary examination, and in 1858 Assistant Geo. Davidson
drew up a Directory for this Pacific Coast of the United States, and this
useful work was revised and republished by the same zealous officer in 1863.
This latter work has been followed hereafter, as it gives a complete hy-
drographical picture of the coast.
The Winds.-The following remarks are extracted from Mr. Davidson's
work:-It has been advised to work close along shore to the northern
ports during the summer north-west winds, and take the chances of land
breezes to make latitude, but the attempt will double the length of any
voyage. Baffling light airs and calms frequently exist along the coast,
while vessels several hundred miles off have strong N.W. winds. Moreover,
along the coast we know that the current frequently sets 2 miles per hour
from the northward, except very close under the shores. In our experience
we never yet have met a wind off the land North of San Francisco, and very
rarely, indeed, South of it, except in the region of the Santa Barbara chan-
nel. As a general rule, it may be safely stated that the summer winds
follow the line of the coast, nearly, and gradually draw towards and over
the land. In winter, with winds from the southward, this is not so marked.
From April to October inclusive, the prevailing wind is from the N.W.,
changing to West in valleys opening upon the coast, but in no case so
*It is singular that the existence of gold was ascertained by Sir Francis Drake, for
Hakluyt, who was with him, said, in 1589, "There is no part of the earth here to be taken
up wherein there is not a reasonable quantity of gold and silver." Yet this traveller's tale
remained unheeded for nearly two and half centuries, till June, 1848.
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
155
strongly as through the Golden Gate. During the summer the wind sets
in strong about 10 a.m., increasing until nearly sunset, when it begins to
die away. During its height it almost regularly brings in a dense fog,
which, working its way over the peninsula, meets that already advanced
through the Golden Gate, and envelopes San Francisco and the bay by
sunset. As a rule, the breeze does not dispel the fog. If a fog exists
outside, the wind is sure to bring it in, but the heated earth dissipates it
for a time.
From November to March the wind is frequently from the S.E., blowing
heavily, working round to the S.W., with a large and broken swell from the
S.W., weather thick, rainy, and squally; the wind not unfrequently ending
at N.W., with an ugly cross sea. During heavy south-easters the sea
breaks upon the San Francisco bar, clean across the entrance, presenting a
fearful sight. The sound can be heard at the anchorage in front of the
city.
During some winters a hard "norther" will spring up and blow steadily
and strongly from one to five days, with a clear blue sky, and cold bracing
weather. Winds rarely blow from points between North, round by the
East, to S.E.
The further North we advance, the heavier blow the gales in the winter.
The N.W. winds are not predicted by the barometer, but, from the S.E.,
almost invariably; the mercury falling one inch from its usual height of
about 30 inches. When it begins to rise, the wind may be looked upon as
soon to shift round by the West, and to decrease. Only in one instance
during our experience has this failed, and that was off the Strait of Juan
de Fuca.
On the tops of the mountains bordering the coast, light variable and
easterly airs are frequently experienced whilst the N.W. winds are blowing
freshly along the seaboard. Upon Sulphur Peak, in lat. 38° 46′, and 26
miles from the coast, we have had fresh breezes from the E.N.E., whilst the
usual N.W. winds were prevailing off shore. On Ross Mountain, only 3
miles from the sea, and rising 2,197 feet from the right bank of the Slavi-
anska river, we found variable airs when strong summer winds were blowing
below.
The COAST.-The monument marking the western initial point of the
boundary between Mexico and the United States, is on the table bluff rising
from the low land South of San Diego Bay. It is an obelisk of white marble,
about 20 feet in height, and resting on a pedestal. It stands near the edge
of the bluff, about 200 yards from the sea shore, and is plainly visible from
the water. Its geographical position, as determined by the coast survey, is
lat. 32° 31′ 58.46" N., long. 117° 6′ 11.12" W., or in time, 7h 48m 24.74º.
From the boundary the coast is low and flat, running N. by W. for about
7 miles, thence curving gradually westward, until it is nearly East and
156
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
West at the entrance of San Diego Bay. The interior of the country is
marked by high mountains.
POINT LOMA.—This is the southern part of the western boundary of
San Diego Bay, and the termination of a remarkable narrow spur of coarse,
crumbling sandstone, which rises South of Puerto Falso, or False Bay, and
West of the town of San Diego, to the height of 300 feet; and after stretch-
ing South for about 5 miles, gradually increasing in height to 422 feet, ter-
minates very abruptly. A lighthouse, presently described, stands on this
highest part. The peninsula is covered with coarse grass, cacti, wild sage,
and low bushes.
SAN DIEGO BAY.-Next to that of San Francisco, no harbour on the
Pacific coast of the United States approximates in excellence that of the Bay
of San Diego. It is readily distinguished and easily approached, and a
depth of 22 feet can be carried over the bar, which is three-quarters of a
mile East of the southern extremity of Point Loma, and between it and
the tail of the Zuniga shoal. The bar is about 650 yards across from the
outer to the inner 5-fathoms lines.
Vessels coming from the N.W. make the ridge of Point Loma as a long
flat-topped island when about 25 miles distant. This appearance is occasioned
by the bay to the S.W., by the low land to the N.E., and by the Puerto
Falso at the North. By night the cape is shown by the lighthouse presently
described.
A thick field of kelp lies along the western shore of Point Loma, the inner
edge being about 1 mile off shore, and having a breadth of half a mile.
The outer edge marks the line where the depth of water suddenly changes.
from 20 to 10 fathoms. The field commences off the bar at the entrance to
False Bay, and stretches southward 23 miles South of Point Loma. Approach-
ing the South end of Loma, along the outer edge of the kelp, pass through
a partial break in it, and when the point bears N.E. by E., distant 1 mile,
keep along the northern edge of the kelp in 4½ fathoms, and about half a
mile from the point. As soon as the point is passed, a long, low beach of
shingle is opened, making out from the East side of the point, and forming
a natural break-water, formerly called Punta de Guiranas, or Punta de los
Guijarros, by the Spaniards, but now designated as Ballast Point.
Round up gradually until Ballast Point is brought in range with the
easternmost house of La Playa (distant 1 mile from Ballast Point, and on the
same side of the bay), and be careful not to open more of the village, as the
shoal called Barros de Zuniga stretches South from the East side of the
entrance, parallel to the ridge of Point Loma, and distant only three-
quarters of a mile from it. Between Point Loma and this shoal runs the
channel, which is less than half a mile wide within the 3-fathoms lines.
With the least swell the breakers show the position and extent of the shoal;
and at low tides part of it is bare. It has been said that a rock, having
POINT LOMA LIGHTHOUSE.
157
but 5 or 6 feet of water upon it, lies in the channel, its position being marked
by a patch of kelp, which is, however, torn away in heavy weather; but the
examinations of the coast survey have developed no such danger.
During the summer keep as close to Point Loma as the draught of the
vessel will permit, and lay on the wind up to Ballast Point, off which 4
fathoms can be carried within a ship's length, with 10 fathoms in mid-
channel, and a very strong current on the ebb and flood tides; the former
setting over the Zuniga shoal. After passing Ballast Point, steer for La
Playa, and anchor anywhere in from 4 to 10 fathoms, with good holding-
ground. Inside the point, and about 250 yards N. by W. from it, is a shoal
having only 12 feet water upon it, in a line from Ballast Point to the western-
most house at La Playa. It is a quarter of a mile long. The shoals on the
starboard hand, after entering, are plainly in sight, except at very high.
water. The channel, however, is buoyed, and cannot be missed. From La
Playa to New San Diego, 4 miles distant, the channel curves to the right and
contracts, but about 6 fathoms water may be carried that far. A mile or
two beyond the town the bay becomes shoal, and filled with flats, yet a very
narrow 3-fathoms channel runs close along the eastern shore, nearly to the
head of the bay.
Coming from the South, run for the extreme end of Point Loma, until
Ballast Point and La Playa are in range, as before, and follow the foregoing
directions.
When inside the harbour the vessels are perfectly safe, but during very
heavy southerly weather, the kelp is said to drive in such masses as to make
vessels drag their anchors. We have never known such a case, and doubt
if a vessel, with good ground tackle and proper attention, would suffer from
this cause; and the holding-ground is excellent. In heavy S.E. weather the
sea breaks over Ballast Point.
Point Loma Lighthouse. This primary sea-coast light is less than half a
mile from the southern end, and situated upon the highest part of the point,
422 feet above high water. The building consists of a stone dwelling, with
a low tower of plastered brick rising from the centre. The light is 450 feet
above the sea, and is a fixed white light, which illuminates the entire horizon,
and in clear weather should be visible 28 to 30 miles off.
It is high water (corrected establishment at La Playa) at 9h 38m; springs
rise 5.0 feet, and neaps 2 feet 4 inches.
The eastern side of the entrance to San Diego Bay is low and flat, covered
with thick bushes and grass. It is called The Island, although a peninsula,
being very low and narrow towards the head of the bay. On Ballast Point,
at the base of the Point Loma ridge, are visible the ruins of the old Spanish
fortifications, &c.
From Ballast Point the bay runs about North for a mile and a half,
thence curves gradually to the eastward for 3 miles, to New San Diego;
158
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
thence to the head of the bay south-east 7 miles. The average width of the
bay, after passing La Playa, is a mile and a half, but at New San Diego it
again expands to about a mile and a half, with low shores and extensive
marshes and flats.
The great drawback in San Diego Bay is the want of fresh water, which
has to be brought from the river. Fresh provisions are readily procured
here. Wood is scarce and not good.
A vein of coal (lignite) has been discovered near San Diego, and was re-
ported of excellent quality; but no genuine coal is to be found upon the
coast, and in 1851 a report was made against this very deposit. When
fishery assumes a practical shape upon this coast, the harbour of San Diego
will become a position of importance. Already several small companies are
engaged in the whaling business. The waters in this vicinity abound with
the "California greys," which are very troublesome to deal with, unless the
bomb-lance is used in killing them.*
False Bay. At the North end of the ridge of Point Loma is an extensive
shoal bay called Puerto Falso, or False Bay. The bar at its entrance lies
N. by W. W., distant 5 miles from the southern extremity of Point
Loma; and having but 3 ft. of water, it can be crossed only in the smoothest
weather. The northern point of this bay is about 2 miles in length, very
narrow, and covered with low sand dunes.
To the North and West of this the shore becomes compact and unbroken,
except by the valleys of San Luis Rey and San Juan Capistrano. The
waters off this stretch of the coast Vizcaino is called the bay of Santa
Catalina.
From the southern extremity of Point Loma the coast runs N. by W. for
22 miles, thence to Point Lausen (of Vancouver, 1793), forming the East
point of San Pedro Bay, N.W. by W. W. nearly 60 miles.
San Luis Rey.-The mission of San Luis Rey is the largest in California,
and the number of domesticated Indians formerly in its neighbourhood gave
it the appearance of a large and thriving settlement. It was founded June
13th, 1798, stands in a rich valley from 1 to 2 miles wide, and is about 3
miles from the ocean, being separated therefrom by a range of hills. It is
nearly in the centre of a section of country unequalled for salubrity and
productiveness, but the scarcity of rain is an insuperable drawback. The
mission is now a military post, but very few men are stationed there.
The anchorage is very much restricted and unprotected, and now never
visited. Latitude 33° 17′ N., long. 117° 29′ W.
San Juan Capistrano.-Now a place of no importance, with an unpro-
* San Diego Bay was discovered by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese in the
service of Spain, in September, 1542, called Port San Miguel. It received its present name
from Sebastian Vizcaino, who surveyed it in November, 1602.
SAN PEDRO BAY.
159
tected anchorage, rocky bottom, and had landing. This mission, like all
the others, is rapidly going to decay. The anchorage is in lat. 33° 27′ N.,
long. 117° 43′ W.
This mission is very pleasantly situated in a grove of trees, whose luxu-
riant and diversified foliage, when contrasted with the adjacent shores, give
it a most romantic appearance.
The bay, or rather the outer half-tide rock, on which Sir E. Belcher ob-
served, is in lat. 33° 26′ 55″ N., long. 117° 42′ W. It has a high cliffy
head to the N.W., but terminates in low sandy beaches to the southward.
The anchorage is foul under 5 fathoms, is unprotected, and the landing
bad.*
During the
From Point
SAN PEDRO BAY.-This bay is well protected in every direction, except
against the winter gales from the S.E. round to the S.W.
spring, summer, and autumn, it is an excellent roadstead.
Fermin, which is the S.E. portion of high land West of the bay, the line of
bluff runs exactly North and South for about 2 miles, being bold, and aver-
aging 60 feet in height.
Vessels coming from the westward through the Santa Barbara channel,
make San Pedro hill (1,600 feet in height), forming the West side of the
bay, as an island projected against the mountains to the southward and
eastward. Approaching Point Vicente, which is the S.W. point of the hill,
vessels can keep it close aboard, there being from 50 to 80 fathoms within a
mile of the shore; round Point Fermin within half a mile, in from 6 to 10
fathoms, and open the small island called El Moro, run for that island, and
when abreast of the landing (readily recognised by the houses on the bluff),
about 1 mile North of Point Fermin, anchor in 3 fathoms, hard bottom,
and half a mile off shore. Vessels must anchor a mile off to get in 5
fathoms.
Coming from the South with N.W. winds, beat in boldly until abreast of
the landing; keep the lead going, and anchor anywhere in its vicinity. Do
not approach the low shore, to the North and East of El Moro, closer than
1 mile, at which limit four fathoms water will be found.
In winter anchor further out, and more to the southward, in order to
be able to slip the cable and go to sea, should a heavy south-easter
spring up.
The waters of the lagoon, inside of the low sandy beach, and a mile or
* The mission is situated in a fruitful-looking sheltered valley, said to abound in garden
luxuries, country wines, and very pretty damsels, whence the favourite appellation Juanitas.
I suppose, therefore, that they all assume this name. As many call here apparently, to
my view, at risk of anchor and cable, I was induced to ask the master of a vessel who
called upon me what brought him here? "It is only visited for stock, fruit, or vegeta-
bles," was his dry reply.-(Sir Edward Belcher.)
160
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
more northward of El Moro, find their principal outlet between that island
and the bluff point half a mile West of it. The entrance is very narrow
and crooked, and has two buoys, about 200 yards apart, to mark it. It is
stated that the bar at the entrance to the creek remains about the same (as
it did in 1852). At mean low water, only 2 feet of water can be carried over
it. A small tow-boat is now used for taking vessels to New San Pedro,
situated about 3 miles inside the bar.
Wood and water are not readily obtained, and charges are high. The
beef raised here is remarkably tough.*
The astronomical station of the U.S. survey at the bluff on the landing
is, lat. 33° 43′ 19.6" N., long. 118° 16′ 3.0″ W., or in time, 7h 53m 4.2³.
The town of Los Angeles or Pueblo de los Angeles (the country town of the
Angels) is 22 miles North by the road from San Pedro, and is the centre
of an extensive grazing, agricultural, and grape-growing country. The
quantity of grapes and fruit generally shipped to San Francisco during the
proper season is already enormous, and it promises to be an important wine-
growing country. Regular communication is maintained with San Francisco
and other ports by steamers and sailing vessels. In summer the Santa
Anna is said to frequently dry up before reaching the lagoon.
3
4
From Port Vicente the coast trends N. by W. 2 W. for 17 miles; thence
W. by S. to Point Dume in lat. 34° 0′ N., and long. 118° 41′ W.; thence
to Point Mugu W. ½ N. for 17 miles. The last point lies N.E. by E. E.,
3
distant 14 miles from the eastern end of Anacapa. This long curve in the
coast is known as the Bahia Ona.
Point Dume rises into a dome-like form 2 or 3 feet high. The land im-
mediately behind it falls away, so that in making it from the West, it rises
into view as an island close under the high mountains. Eastward of Dume
the mountains spring directly from the water.t
says,-
* Sir George Simpson, who visited it in his overland journey round the world in 1841-2,
"San Pedro is an open bay, which has no better claim to the character of a harbour
than almost any other point on the coast, being exposed to both the prevailing winds, and
being destitute of everything in the shape of a house, or even of a shed. Its only recom-
mendation is, that it affords access to the Pueblo of Nuestra Senora, about 18 miles distant,
which contains a population of 1,500 souls, and is the noted abode of the lowest drunkards
and gamblers of the country. This den of thieves is situated, as one may expect from its
being almost twice as populous as the two other pueblos taken together, in one of the
loveliest and most fertile districts of California; and being, therefore, one of the best marts
in the province for hides and tallow, it induces vessels to brave all the inconveniences and
dangers of the open and exposed Bay of San Pedro.-(Sir Edward Belcher
† At the bottom of the bay, between Point Dume and Point Vicente is a bitumen
spring. In reference to this, when Vancouver anchored in a small bay 60 miles to the
north-westward, he says:—“The surface of the sea, which was perfectly smooth and
tranquil, was covered with a thick slimy substance, which, when separated or distributed
by any little agitation, became very luminous, whilst the light breeze that came principally
BUENAVENTURA.
161
From Point Mugu to San Buenaventura, distant 17 miles, the coast has a
general trend N.W. by W.; but about midway it curves south-westward of
this course 2 miles towards Anacapa, thus contracting the eastern entrance
to the Santa Barbara channel. Two miles West of Point Mugu is Laguna
Point, close under which is very deep water, the 10-fathom line running
within 250 yards of the shore. Between Mugu and Buenaventura the coast
is low, flat, and sandy, being the opening of the valley of Santa Clara,
through which flows the Santa Clara river. This stream is nearly dry
during the summer, and terminates in lagoons and marshes.
The eastern entrance to the Santa Barbara channel lies between the
eastern end of Anacapa Island and Point Hueneme, which is about halfway
between Mugu and Buenaventura. From Anacapa, Point Hueneme bears
N.E. by N. N., distant 9 miles. Directly off this point is found a re-
markable example of a submarine valley, commencing with a depth of 10
fathoms, 400 yards from the beach, increasing to 50 fathoms in five-eighths
of a mile, and to 113 in less than 2 miles. Its general direction is South,
with a width of a mile, and bounded on either side by depths of 12 and 15
fathoms. The best landing is directly on the point. Landing in the bight
to the eastward and leeward is impracticable. Vancouver says this was
called Point Conversion on old Spanish maps; he placed it in lat. 34° 9′, and
retained the name.
There is excellent holding ground off Buenaventura in 10 fathoms, but
the landing is not good; the 3-fathom line lies about a quarter of a mile off
shore.
Buenaventura.-The mission of Buenaventura, situated at the foot of the
dividing ridge of the valleys of San Buenaventura and Santa Clara, about
half a mile from the shore, was founded March 31, 1782. Lat. 34° 15′ N.,
long. 119° 15′ W. Fifteen miles westward of Buenaventura, on the coast
there is a rich deposit of sulphur, surface specimens of which have yielded
sixty per cent. Around the locality are found ashes and scoria. The ground
is hot, and the gas emitted is almost suffocating.
SANTA BARBARA.—From San Buenaventura to Santa Barbara the
from the shore brought with it a very strong smell of burning tar, or of some such resinous
substance. The next morning the sea had the appearance of dissolved tar floating upon its
surface, which covered the ocean in all directions within the limits of our view, and indi-
cated that in this neighbourhood it was not subject to much agitation." This singular fact,
which might be turned to profitable account, has also been noticed by others :-“ Off this
part of the coast (near Santa Barbara) to the westward, Capt. Sir Edward Belcher says,
we experienced a very extraordinary sensation, as if the ship was on fire, and after very
close investigation attributed it to a scent from the shore, it being much more sensible on
deck than below, and the land breeze confirming this, it occurred to me that it might arise
from naptha on the surface.-Voyage of the Sulphur, vol. i. p. 320. This was before petro-
leum was thought of. It is mentioned again presently.
North Pacific.
M
162
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
distance is 23 miles, and the bearing nearly W. by N. Santa Barbara is
an open roadstead for all except northerly winds, which are unfrequent. On
the West of the long low sandy beach is a bold bluff called Point Filipe.
The hill rising behind it is called La Vigia.
The landing is on the beach about half a mile East of Point Filipe; the
shore is very low and flat as far as the town, three-quarters of a mile distant,
but gradually rises to the mission, which is a prominent object about 2 miles
inland.
Vessels coming from the westward first sight La Vigia, and, upon ap-
proaching the anchorage, keep outside the line of kelp (here nearly half a
mile wide), gradually round the point upon which is situated the lighthouse,
2 miles south-westerly of the landing, keep along the kelp until abreast of
the town, and anchor in 7 fathoms; or pass through the kelp, and anchor
in the inside in 3 fathoms hard bottom. In anchoring far enough off to
get 9 or 10 fathoms, the bottom will be found sticky.
No dangers have been discovered in the kelp off this beach. With the
least swell, the surf on the beach is a bad one, not falling square on, but
cutting it at a sharp angle. In winter, vessels must anchor outside of the
kelp, as the gales detach and drive it shoreward in such vast quantities,
that, coming across a vessel's hawse, it helps to bring home her anchors.
The Lighthouse at Santa Barbara consists of a plastered dwelling, with
a low grey tower rising through the roof. It shows a fixed white light. It
is situated at an elevation of 180 ft. above the sea, 2 miles south-westwardly
from the landing on the beach, lat. 34° 23′ 35″ N., long. 119° 42′ 5" W. The
light, as seen from the sea, will be projected against the hill rising behind
it. It can be seen at a distance of 19 to 20 miles.
Santa Barbara is a town of considerable size, lying in the middle of an
agricultural tract, running East and West, at the southern base of the Sierra
Concepcion, but of limited breadth. The trade with San Francisco is not
extensive; but this being one of the greatest stock-raising districts on the
coast, vast droves of cattle pass through and are sent to San Francisco, and
the mining districts.*
The mission, founded December 4th, 1786, is one of the largest and best
establishments of the kind in California, and in the gardens attached to it
the grape and olive were cultivated with success.
Sulphur, in large beds and of superior quality, exists along the seaboard,
and manifests itself in all the warm springs. Wood and provisions in abun-
* A large bitumen pit, about 8 miles West of Santa Barbara, empties directly into the
ocean, and the bitumen floating on the water works against the summer or north-west
winds, even beyond Point Concepcion. Very frequently, in calm weather, a great extent
of the surface of the channel becomes iridescent from the thin film of bitumen spread over
it. The rocks along the shore, even to the westward of Point Concepcion, are covered
with it.
POINT CONCEPCION.
163
dance can be easily obtained here. Water is plentiful, but not so readily
procured.
A very short distance back from the coast-line is a range of rugged hills,
over 2,000 feet high, forming part of the Sierra Concepcion (sometimes called
the Sierra San Inez), whose sides are sparsely covered with timber. The
coast trail to San Francisco passes along the shore for a distance of 15 or 20
miles to the Gaviota Pass; thence inland to the Santa Inez valley, which
runs nearly parallel with the coast.
The coast-line from Santa Barbara light to Point Concepcion light runs
W. by S., distance 37 miles. The rugged hills westward of the Gaviota
Pass come close to the shore, forcing the traveller to leave the beach for
their sea slope, the trail passing over steep ridges and down valleys.
POINT CONCEPCION.-This characteristic and remarkable headland,
about 220 feet in height, lies at the western entrance to the Santa Barbara
channel. Once seen, it will never be forgotten. When made from the
northward, or from the eastward, it rises as an island, but upon approach is
found to be a high promontory, stretching boldly into the ocean, and termi-
nating abruptly. The land behind it sinks comparatively low, and at first
gradually, but soon rapidly rises to the mountains, which attain an elevation
of 2,500 feet. Between three and four hundred yards South of the face of
the cape is a large rock nearly a wash, upon which some of the California
steamers have struck in very foggy weather.
The LIGHTHOUSE on Point Concepcion stands on the extremity of the
cape, and upon the highest part, which is 220 feet above the sea. Seen
from the southward, it will be projected against the Sierra de la Concepcion,
and appear about one-third of their height from the water. It is a primary
sea-coast light, consisting of an illuminating apparatus of the first-order
lens, and exhibits a revolving white light, showing a flash every half minute,
throughout the entire sea horizon. It is elevated about 250 feet above the
sea, and should be visible at from 22 to 27 miles off. Its latitude is 34° 26'
47" N., long. 120° 27′ 0″ W., or in time 8h 1m 48.0s.
A fog bell, weighing 3,136 pounds, is placed on the edge of the bluff, sea-
ward of the lighthouse, which is sounded during foggy or other thick
weather, night and day, every 13 seconds.
Next to the islands of the Santa Barbara Channel, Point Concepcion is
the most prominent and interesting feature between San Francisco and the
peninsula of Lower California. It has very justly and appropriately been
termed the "Cape Horn" and the "Hatteras" of the Pacific, on account
of the heavy north-westers that are here met with on coming through the
channel, with a great change of climate and meteorological conditions; the
transition being remarkably sudden and well defined.
During some summer seasons the fog is almost interminable, but more
particularly among the islands. For the space of six weeks, with clear days
M 2
164
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
and nights at the cape, the islands have been invisible; rising, however, to
an elevation of 1,000 or 1,500 feet, the observer plainly sees the summits of
the islands over the sea of fog which envelopes them.
When the fogs prevail, they generally roll in from seaward at sunset, and
clear away about ten o'clock next morning.*
EL COXO.-Two miles East of Point Concepcion is the anchorage of El
Coxo, off the entrance to the valley of that name. This anchorage is a
better one than that of Santa Barbara, and the kelp is not so compact.
After passing the point from the westward, at a distance of about three-
quarters of a mile, when the valley will open with a sand-beach off it, anchor
outside or inside the kelp, according to the choice of depth, 5 fathoms being
obtained within a quarter of a mile of the shore, with hard, sandy bottom.
Ten fathoms water will be found half a mile from the shore.
There is a large rancho at El Coxo, and it is one of the very best tracts
for grazing. The beef has a finer flavour and more delicacy than any we
have met with on the coast. The water is disagreeable to the taste. The
primary astronomical station of the coast survey was on the top of the
bluff, and between 250 and 300 yards W. S. from the mouth of the creek.
Its geographical position is lat. 34° 26' 56.5″ N., long. 120° 25′ 39″ W., or in
time, 8h 1m 42.6.
ISLANDS OF THE SANTA BARBARA CHANNEL.
The name of El Canal de Santa Barbara was given by Vizcaino, in De-
cember, 1602, to the narrowest part of the channel lying East and West,
and about 24 leagues in length. Until the U.S. coast survey first examined
in detail the islands lying off the main between San Diego and Point Con-
cepcion, nothing accurate was known of their number, peculiarities, extent,
or position.
It may not be here amiss to call attention to the abundance of mackerel
found in the channel. We have seen the water fairly alive with them, and
have caught them by hundreds. Crayfish of a very large size are found in
great numbers along the shores. The rainy season commences in the early
part of November, and continues until the middle of March. The quantity
of rain that falls does not average over 15 inches, but some seasons are
marked by excessive drought. During the winter S.E. gales prevail, and
sometimes during the summer months southerly weather will bring up
heavy rain.
CORTES SHOAL.
Commencing at the southward, the first object that claims our attention
is the dangerous bank and rock called the Cortes Shoal, bearing S. W. W.
* Point Concepcion was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called Cape Galera. It was
afterwards named Punta de la Limpia Concepcion.
CORTES SHOAL.
165
from the S.E. end of the island of San Clemente, and distant 46 miles. The
extent of this bank has been sounded out carefully, and found much greater
than the early examinations led us to suppose. Within the limits of the
50-fathom curve the general trend is parallel with the islands of Santa
Catalina, San Clemente, and San Nicolas, and it stretches about 17 miles
from lat. 32° 24' N., long. 118° 59′ W., to lat. 32° 32' N., long. 119° 17'
W., but curves slightly to the S.W. It has an average and nearly uniform
width of 3 miles. The nature of the bottom is hard, composed of white
sand, broken shells, and fine coral at the S.E. portion, and sand with broken
shells at the N.W. The shoalest and most dangerous part is that known as
the Bishop Rock, lying 5 miles from the S.E. tail of the bank, and having
but 2 fathoms of water upon it. Around this danger the depth increases
gradually, and in an extent of 24 miles in the general direction of the bank
reaches but 15 fathoms. The geographical position of these rocks is lat. 32°
253′ N., long. 119° 5′ W. From the N.W. end of the island of San Nicolas
the rocks bear S.E. S., distant 57 miles; and from the S.E. end of San
Clemente they bear S.W. S., distant 46 miles. The next shoal spot is one
of 10 fathoms, about the middle of the bank, and of limited extent, being
only half a mile square within the 15 fathom curve. From the N.W. end of
San Nicolas the spot last mentioned bears S.E. by S. distant 54 miles; and
from the S.E. end of San Clemente it bears S. W. W., distant 50 miles.
From the Bishop Rock it bears W. N., distant 5 miles.
4
To the north-westward of this latter shoal spot the depth is nearly uniform
at 49 fathoms for 7½ miles, and between it and the Bishop Rock the depth
is uniform at about 43 fathoms.
Upon this bank the current is variable, frequently setting against the
strong N.W. winds with a velocity of nearly 2 miles per hour, and producing
at all times a heavy swell, and even in moderate weather breaking heavily
upon the rocks. In passing over the bank at night we have been sensible
of our proximity to it by the increased swell. In the detailed examination
of 1856 it was found that the general set of the current was to the southward
and eastward, and the greatest velocity a mile and a half per hour; but no
statement is made concerning the prevailing wind.
It lies in the direct route now followed by the Panama and San Francisco
steam-ships, and was discovered by Capt. Cropper, of the steam-ship Cortes,
in March, 1853. His position was determined by bearings upon San
Nicolas and San Clemente, and was very close, being within a mile of the
latest and best assigned place. He says that the water around it was in
violent commotion, and thrown up suddenly in columns at regular intervals
of four or five minutes. At first he thought he saw breakers, and occa-
sionally the water broke as on a reef, but he became confident that the dis-
turbance was owing to submarine volcanic agency. The specimens of the
bottom negative this idea. He found his depth of water reduced from 42
166
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
fathoms to 9, which convinces us that he was on the shoal spot, about the
middle of the bank, and saw the water breaking upon the Bishop Rock, the
same appearance that he witnessed, having been seen many times since by
by others, and the nature of the rocky bottom and depth of water support-
ing the assumption.
ISLAND OF SAN CLEMENTE.
This, like all the islands of the Santa Barbara Channel is high and bold,
the southern end being the higher, and gradually falling to the northward.
The general trend of the island is N.W. by W., its length 22 miles, with an
average breadth of 2 miles, and 50 miles in circuit. The S.W. point of the
island bears W. S. from Point Loma, distant 60 miles. At the N.W. end
is a small indentation of the shore-line, forming an anchorage, having a
width of three-quarters of a mile, by half a mile in depth, with soundings
decreasing from 12 fathoms, on the line of a large rocky islet at the side to
a point E. by S., to 4 and 5 fathoms close in shore. Kelp will be found in
10 fathoms, but the bottom is tolerably regular and hard. It is anything
but a pleasant or safe anchorage in bad N.W. weather, and even in heavy
southerly weather the swell must roll in disagreeably.
Under the S.E. end of the island anchorage may be had in the deepest
part of the indentation, but the bottom is rocky and irregular. The S.E.
point is a vast sandstone pyramid; and when it is brought to bear North,
and the shore three-quarters of a mile distant, the anchorage will be W. by
N. N., 12 mile inside the kelp, in 10 to 15 fathoms, and one-third of a mile
from the narrow sand-beach at the foot of the cliffs. Outside of the kelp
the depth ranges from 10 to 30 fathoms.
This anchorage will afford protection in heavy N.W. weather. The
soundings around the island show a depth of from 36 to 130 fathoms close
in shore, except off the N.W. point, from which a reef makes out about a
mile. Neither wood nor water can be had here. The whole island appears
unfit for raising stock, on account of the want of water. Very few trees are
found, and the aspect is sterile. This island was discovered by Cabrillo in
1542, and called by him San Salvador, after one of his two vessels. The
present name was given by Vizcaino in 1602.
ISLAND OF SANTA CATALINA.
This island rises to a height of about 3,000 feet, and is remarkable for
the great transverse break or depression, 5 miles from the northern end,
running partly through it, and forming an anchorage or cove on each side.
The land connecting these is very low, say not ever 30 feet; but the hills
rise up on each side two or three thousand feet, and when sighted from the
North or South the whole appears like two very high islands. The general
trend of the island is W. by N. & N.; its length 17 miles, with an average
3
4
ISLAND OF SANTA CATALINA.
167
breadth of 4 miles to the southern part, and 2 miles to the northern, while
the shore-line amounts to about 42 miles.
The depression in the island bears S.S.W. from Point Fermin, and is
distant 18 miles.
The harbour or cove in the southern side, 5 miles from the northern end,
is only about one-third of a mile in width, but its approaches are bold, and
so far as known, free from hidden dangers; to find it, run along the S.W.
side of the island, and make the depression; then stand in for the opening,
keeping a little left of mid-channel, until a third of a mile inside of the
heads. From thence keep in mid-channel, until abreast of the long, low
point on the right, and anchor in 5 fathoms, soft bottom. There is a depth
of 3 fathoms inside of the low point, with hard bottom, but not room
enough for a vessel to swing. If the wind is blowing from the N.W.,
vessels will lose it at the heads, and perhaps require to be towed in.
The anchorage on the North side of the depression is also small, with a
reef in the centre, and two large outlying rocks. A steamer could run in on
the West side of the rocks, and anchor off the low beach in 10 fathoms,
when the reef would lie N. by E. from her, distant an eighth of a mile.
Small craft will here find protection from the prevailing winds, but expe-
rience difficulty in getting out, as there is always a swell setting in, and the
wind blows in flaws and eddies on account of the high hills. Between the
two points forming the anchorage the distance is half a mile, and the depth
one-third.
The soundings around the island show bold water from 19 to 75 fathoms,
close in shore, with no outlying rocks except off the North cove. The shores
are rocky, and on the southern side fearfully abrupt, but on the northern
shore there are several indentations, where boats may land at almost any
season. Deep and precipitous gulches are formed by the ridges of rock
running diagonally across the island from N.E. to S.W., and occasionally a
small valley varies the scene. Four or five settlers cultivate these spots, but
their inconsiderable extent precludes the realizing of anything beyond a
sustenance. About midway between the N.W. extremity of the island and
the great break there is a spring of good water, and at the S.E. point good
water has been obtained by sinking wells to a depth of 50 feet or more, but
in the intermediate places water found at the same depth is brackish.
This island was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called by him La
Victoria, after one of his two vessels. It received its present name from
Vizcaino in December, 1602, when it was thickly inhabited by a people
reported to be very ingenious, particularly in pilfering and concealing, some
examples of which accomplishment they gave the Spaniards. Padre de la
Ascension, who accompanied this expedition, gives very particular descrip-
tions of a kind of temple to the sun, with images and idols found near the
two coves.
168
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
ISLAND OF SANTA BARBARA.
This is one of the only two small islands of the Santa Barbara group. It
lies on the line between the North end of San Clemente and the East end of
Santa Cruz, and almost exactly half way between them. From the North
end of Santa Catalina it bears W. by S. distant 23 miles. The extent of the
island would not exceed 2 miles of shore line; its elevation at the highest
part is about 500 feet, and the top has an area of about 30 acres, covered
with soil, but no water is found, and not a vestige of wood. The shores are
rocky and abrupt, presenting on the N.E. and South sides perpendicular
cliffs, exposed to the full force of the ocean swell. Landing is at all times
difficult and dangerous, the water around it is deep, and there are no out-
lying rocks. It is said to be much more enveloped in fogs than the
neighbouring islands. Its approximate position is lat. 33° 30′ N., long.
119° 2′ W.
ISLAND OF SAN NICOLAS.
Of the Channel Islands this is the most distant from the coast, as well as
the driest and most sterile. It is about 600 feet high, abrupt, and, like San
Clemente, comparatively flat-topped, but falling to the southern end. The
sides are bold and precipitous, and composed of coarse sandstone.
Its general direction is W.N.W.; its length is 8 miles, with an average
and nearly uniform width of 3 miles, whilst the extent of shore-line is
about 22 miles. The North point of the island bears S.E. by E. from Point
Fermin, distant 67 miles; the line passing 1 mile South of the island of
Santa Barbara.
At the North end of San Nicolas heavy breakers make out 2 miles, and
the soundings towards the Begg Rock show irregular and rocky bottom.
Breakers also extend from the southern point, to the distance of a mile and
three-quarters according to Kellet. This is doubtless the case in heavy
weather. The soundings around the island show depths varying from 10 to
48 fathoms. Off the S.E. point, which is low and sandy, vessels may an-
chor in 10 fathoms, hard bottom, with a current running steadily to the
southward, which makes the landing bad, as the surf cuts the beach at an
acute angle. The sandy point just referred to is in lat. 33° 14′ 12.9" N.,
long. 119° 13′ W., or in time 7h 57m 40. This island was not seen by Van-
couver in 1793.
The John Begg Rock is situated on the prolongation of the longer axis of
the island of San Nicolas, bearing N.W. by W. W. from its nearest (N.W.)
point, and distant 7 miles. The rock is about 40 feet high, bold, and well
defined, and can be easily seen at a distance of 10 miles. The soundings
between it and the island indicate the existence of a submarine ledge con-
ISLANDS OF ANACAPA AND SANTA CRUZ.
169
necting them. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 33° 22½′ N.,
long. 119° 13′ W.
It was named after the ship John Begg, which struck upon a reef near it,
September 20th, 1824, and was nearly lost. The foul bottom is covered
with kelp.
ISLAND OF ANACAPA.
This is in fact a curiously formed group of three islands, extending in a
nearly E.N.E. direction, their entire length being 5 miles. The West end
of Anacapa is a peak 930 feet in height, with a base of over 2 miles by
three-quarters of a mile. This is separated from the middle island by a gap
10 feet wide, through which boats can pass. The middle island is nearly 2
miles long by 500 yards wide, whilst the eastern island is little over a mile
long, by 500 yards wide. The gap separating the middle and eastern
islands is over 200 yards wide, but so completely filled with rocks as to be
impassable for boats, which can, however, land on the North side of the
island.
4
The West end of Anacapa is 4½ miles from the eastern point of the island
of Santa Cruz, and bears E. & N. from it. The depth of water between these
islands is 30 fathoms, with a very regular bottom, composed of grey sand,
coral, and shells. The eastern end of the island bears S.E. 3 E. from the
Santa Barbara light, distant 28 miles, and from Point Hueneme or Conver-
sion, the nearest point of the mainland S.W. by S. S., distant 94 miles.
Anacapa is in lat. 31° 1' N., and between longitudes 119° 19′ and 119° 24′
West. Upon it the site for a lighthouse has been recommended.
3
The island is composed of coarse, dark grey sandstone, very rotten and
crumbling. The sides are perpendicular, and from 250 to 300 feet high.
The main peak is marked on the North side by several deep gulches, with
almost vertical sides running from the summit to the bluff. The whole
formation is filled with innumerable cavities, giving it the appearance of an
enormous blackened honeycomb. At the eastern extremity is found a very
beautiful arch in one of the outlying rocks. The soil is loose and thin, pro-
ducing only a few dwarfed species of cactus, and a thick-leaved succulent
plant. Not a drop of water is to be found on the island.
Anacapa is a place of great resort for the seal, sea-lion, and formerly of
the otter, but the latter have been nearly all killed off. It was on this
island that the steam-ship Winfield Scott ran ashore during a dense fog at
midnight, December 2nd, 1853, in calm weather.
ISLAND OF SANTA CRUZ.
This island is the largest of the channel group, and lies broad off the coast
opposite the town of Santa Barbara, at a distance of 20 miles. Its general
170
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
direction is East and West, with a length of 21 miles, and an average width
of 4 miles, while the extent of its shore-line is not less than 53 miles. On
the northern side of the island and near the middle, the shore makes a
moderately deep curve, forming a roadstead called Prisoner's Harbour, at the
opening of a valley, where plenty of wood and water can be obtained.
Anchorage may be had a quarter of a mile off the middle of the beach in 15
fathoms, sandy bottom; but there is no protection from the heavy swell
setting in with a north-wester; it must, however, afford excellent refuge in
S.E. weather.
The soundings around the island show deep water close to the shore, but
there are rocks showing quite plainly 1 mile from the S.W. point.
The island is bold, and about 1,700 feet in height. Its eastern part is
extremely irregular, barren, and destitute of water, and the surface of the
north-eastern portion is thickly strewn with large angular pieces of stone,
as if broken with a hammer. Several species of cactus and some of the
coarse grasses flourish. Santa Cruz Island is composed of coarse, dark grey
sandstone, crumbling and rotten, like that of Anacapa.
This island was called Juan Rodriguez by Ferrelo, who commanded the
ships of Cabrillo after his death, which took place either in Prisoner's Har-
bour or in Cuyler's Harbour (Island of San Miguel).
The group comprising Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel, was dis-
covered and called San Lucas by Cabrillo in 1542.
ISLAND OF SANTA ROSA.
This is the middle island of the group off the coast between Santa Bar-
bara and Point Concepcion. Its general shape is that of a parallelogram,
with the direction of the longer axis almost exactly East and West, and
15 miles in length; and the shorter North and South, giving it a width of
10 miles. The extent of shore-line is about 42 miles.
On the N.W. side of the island, and midway between the North and
West points, a reef extends out for a distance of a mile and a quarter.
There is a good passage between Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa, with a width
of 5 miles, and one between it and San Miguel of 4 miles. Both passages
are frequently used by the California and Panama steam-ships.
The soundings around the island do not show as deep water as round the
others; on the N.E. and N.W. sides from 15 to 20 fathoms are found, 2
miles from the shore, but in the S.E. and S.W. sides the water is much
deeper. The outline of the island is bold, but not so high as Santa Cruz.
The hills are rolling, and covered with coarse grass and bushes. No har-
bours exist round its shores, which are steep and broken. The South point
of the island is in lat. 33° 53′ N., long. 120° 4′ W.*
* On some early Spanish charts the two western of the Santa Barbara Islands are called
(171)
ISLAND OF SAN MIGUEL.
This is the western of the Santa Barbara Channel Islands its longer axis
lying E. N. and 7 miles in length, with an average breadth of 2½ miles.
The extent of shore-line is 21 miles. Its western extremity is bold and
narrow, gradually increasing in breadth until it attains 3½ miles. As seen
from the south-westward, this end of the island appears to be several hun-
dred feet in height, and composed of sand dunes, therein differing from all
the other islands. The eastern face is nearly straight for 2 miles; the
southern face is nearly straight along its whole length, with high abrupt
shores; and from 30 to 37 fathoms water are found close inshore. On the
N.E. side of the island is the small bay called Cuyler's Harbour, off which
lies a rock or islet, more than a fourth of a mile long, and several hundred
feet high. From this islet to the deepest part of the harbour the distance
is 14 mile, and the course S.W. Close under the western side of the har-
bour is anchorage in 6 fathoms, secure from every wind except the North,
which rarely blows here. The eastern part of the bay is full of rocks and
reefs, and ought to be avoided. The reef in the middle of the bay bears
S.W. from the West end of the islet, and is distant half a mile. It is the
same distance from the West point of the bay, near the anchorage, and
bears E. by S.
S.W. by S. S. from the West end of the islet is a rock, and rocky bottom,
distant a third of a mile, and on the same line another, half a mile distant.
The southern part of the islet is about half a mile from the East shore of the
bay. The bay shores are high, steep, and rolling, and covered with coarse
grass and bushes.
There is no water here in summer, but during the
winter water drains down the gully at the beach in the middle and southern
part of the harbour.
The western point of the island bears S. by E. E., distant 25 miles from
Point Concepcion, and S.E. by S. S., distant 35 miles from Point Ar-
guello.
Sheep and some stock have been placed upon San Miguel, but the success
of the experiment has been doubtful, certainly unremunerative.
The S.W. part of Cuyler's Harbour is in lat. 34° 3′ N., long. 120° 20′
27" W. It is high water here, on full and change (corrected establishment),
at IXh 25m. Spring tides rise 5 feet 1 inch, neaps 2 feet 9 inches.
San Miguel was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and Cuyler's Harbour is
supposed by some to be the bay in which he wintered. He died January
5th, 1543, having directed Bartolome Ferrelo, his pilot, to assume the com-
mand of the expedition. He called the island Juan Rodriguez. It is some-
San Miguel and Santa Rosa (naming the western first), and upon the others Santa Barbara
and Miguel. The present names and order are those adopted by Vancouver in 1793.
172
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
times called San Bernardo. Cuyler's Harbour was named by the U.S. Coast
Survey in 1852.
Two rocks, showing themselves well above water, lie N.W. by W. from
the western extremity of San Miguel, the larger being distant 5 miles. It
bears S. E., distant 22 miles, from Point Concepcion, and S.S.E., distant
30 miles from Point Arguello. Off the inner and smaller rock a reef extends
a short distance to the southward and westward. Deep water is found
around the rocks, and vessels may pass between them. The total extent of
shore-line of the Santa Barbara Islands is about 232 miles.
The COAST, from Point Concepcion northward.-The first headland to
the northward of Point Concepcion is Point Arguello, distant 12 miles, and
bearing N.W. by W. W. The shore is bold and compact, curving slightly
to the eastward between the two points, and the mountains immediately be-
hind are not less than 3,000 feet in height.
Point Arguello.-Two or three hundred yards off Point Arguello are
some detached rocks, upon which the steam-ship Yankee Blade struck and
was lost on the 1st of October, 1854, and 415 persons perished.
Eight miles North of Point Arguello a small stream empties into the
ocean. It is insignificant and unimportant. On former charts it is called
the Rio de San Balardo or the San Geraldo, the Bernardo or Santa Inez.
On the U.S. Coast Survey charts it is designated La Purissima, from the
mission La Purissima Concepcion, situated a few miles inland.
The first point northward of Point Arguello is Point Purissima, off which
makes a reef about a fourth of a mile to the S.S.W. This is known on the
coast as Point Pedernales, signifying Point of Flints, but now generally and
erroneously printed "Pedro Nales." Formerly it was called San Pedro No-
lasco. Near this point the steam-ship Edith was lost in 1849. Between
Points Sal and Purissima a small stream called the Guyamas opens.
22
3
Point Sal.-From Point Arguello N. by W. W., and distant 19 miles,
is Point Sal, which is marked by streaks of yellow sand, except at the ex-
treme point. The extremity is formed by high, round, black rocks, off
which are several sunken rocks, extending half a mile to the southward and
westward. This stretch of the coast is very similar to that behind Concep-
cion and Arguello, but after passing Point Sal, the mountains fall back, and
the shore is formed of sand-hills. The general trend hence is North, until
the shore commences sweeping westward to form the bay of San Luis Obispo,
and the shores become high and abrupt.
SAN LUIS OBISPO.-This bay is an open roadstead, exposed to the
southward, and even during heavy N.W. weather a bad swell rolls in, ren-
dering it an uncomfortable anchorage. The landing is frequently very bad,
and often impracticable, but the best place is in the mouth of the creek,
keeping the rocks at its mouth on the starboard hand. Fresh water may
be
SAN LUIS OBISPO.
173
obtained at a small stream opening on the beach, half a mile West of the
creek. In the coarse sandstone bluff between these two places are found
gigantic fossil remains.
Off Point San Luis, which forms the S.W. part of the bay, are some rocks,
and in making the anchorage vessels should give this point a berth of half
a mile, passing in 6 or 8 fathoms. Run on a N. by E. course, and anchor
three-fourths of a mile from shore in 6 fathoms, sticky bottom; 4 fathoms
can be got about a fourth of a mile from the beach. In winter anchor far
enough out to clear Point San Luis, if a south-easter should come up.
During southerly weather landing is frequently effected at the watering-
place when impracticable at the creek.
The distance of the rock off Point San Luis to the mouth of the creek
is 1½ mile; from the same rock to a white rock bearing N. 70° E. the dis-
tance is 24 miles; and a black rock lies halfway between the white rock and
the mouth of the creek. The bluff on the East side of the small fresh-water
stream West of the creek is in lat. 35° 10′ 37″ N., long. 120° 43′ 31″ W. It
is high water (corrected establishment) at Xh 8m; springs rise 4 ft. 10 inches;
neaps 2 feet 5 inches.
The town of San Luis Obispo, which takes its name from the mission of
that name, founded September 1st, 1772, is not on the bay, but is situated
about 10 miles in the interior, in the middle of an extensive and excellent
grazing country. Communication is maintained with San Francisco and
other ports by regular steamers and lines of sailing packets.
The bay was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called by him Todos
Santos.
To the northward of the bay of San Luis Obispo the Monte de Buchon
rises to a great height, which is readily distinguished in coming from the
northward or southward.
The U.S. Surveyors were informed by old otter hunters on this coast, that
there exists a sunken rock about 8 miles S.S.W. from Point San Luis, and
furthermore that they had found kelp upon in 4 fathoms. On the old
Spanish charts an island appears laid down in that direction, but distant
about 8 leagues.
leagues. One of the Pacific mail steam-ships laid-to in a S.E.
gale, and thick fog off Point Concepcion, and, drifting to the northward,
came unexpectedly upon a sunken rock, upon which the sea was breaking
heavily. The commander supposed the vessel to be then off Point Sal, and
had so plotted the rock upon his chart; but upon being informed of the
alleged existence of a rock off San Luis Obispo, he was satisfied that he had
been near it, but unfortunately had no opportunity of determining his posi-
tion. This locality demands a thorough examination, as it is in the direct
track of the whole California trade from San Francisco.
From Point San Luis the coast trends in a straight line W.N.W. for a
distance of 8 miles, and close along the shore of this stretch are several
174
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
•
large rocks. Thence the coast trends abruptly to the North, running to the
high conical rock called El Moro, distant 8 miles,-these two shores forming
the seaward base of Mount Buchon.
From El Moro the shore-line gradually trends to the westward, thus
forming a deep indentation or bay, called Los Esteros on the old Spanish
charts, but now designated as the Estero Bay. It was discovered by Cabrillo
in 1542, and here he obtained wood and water. Behind El Moro are several
lagoons or streams, and the high land retreats for some distance, leaving the
shore low and sandy, while the North shore is rugged and guarded by
rocks. The N. W. point of the bay is called Punta de los Esteros, and bears
N.W. N. from the West point of Mount Buchon, distant 13 miles.
From Point Los Esteros to the western point of the anchorage of San
Simeon the coast runs nearly straight N.W. by W. for a distance of 15 miles.
The shores are not so bold as to the southward and northward, and the
mountains fall well back, leaving a fine rolling country of no great elevation,
and well suited to agriculture.
BAY of SAN SIMEON.—This is a small exposed roadstead, but affords
tolerably good anchorage during N.W. winds. The S. W. point of the bay
bears N.W. by W. from Point Esteros, and is distant 15 miles. The inden-
tation of the shore-line forming the bay trends between N.N.W. to N. for
half a mile, and then sweeps away to the westward about 1½ mile, gradually
taking a S.E. direction. The land behind the bay is comparatively low and
gently rolling, the high hills retiring well inland.
Vessels coming from the northward may run boldly round the S.W.
point, within a few hundred yards of the shore, in 8 or 9 fathoms, round up
to North, and anchor anywhere off the sand beach in 5 fathoms, hard
bottom, and a little more than a quarter of a mile from shore. The beach
is half a mile long, stretching well out, and rendering the landing disagreea-
ble with any swell; but in such cases it is usual to land at the western part
of the beach. Eastward of the sand beach the shore-line is bluff, and
guarded with rocks. Vessels from the southward must make short tacks
close inshore, or they will assuredly miss it. The only sure marks for it are
the Piedras Blancas, as will be hereafter shown. It was in this bay that
the steam-ship Pioneer put in, leaking badly. The bay affords not the
slightest refuge in southerly weather.
In making this harbour from the northward, vessels must sight the
Piedras Blancas (White Rocks) 4 miles W. & N. of the S.W. point of San
Simeon. They are two large white-topped rocks, and nothing else like
them is found on this part of the coast. The geographical position of the
outer and larger rock is, lat. 35° 39′ N., long. 121° 15′ West. This bay is
supposed by some to be the "Bay of Sardines" of Cabrillo, where he an-
chored and landed in 1542.
From Piedras Blancas the coast trends N.W. W. for a distance of 57
BAY OF SAN SIMEON
175
miles, in an almost perfectly straight line. At a distance of 18 miles from
these rocks the above-mentioned bearing cuts a bold bluff and rounded
point called Punta Gorda, off which, and for 2 or 3 miles along the shore
northward, there are many rocks. This point is the Cape San Martin of
Cabrillo. As there is one point under Cape Mendocino, more generally.
known as Punta Gorda, it is recommended that this point retain the name
given to it by Cabrillo, especially as all his names have been cast aside.
Continuing on the same bearing, and at a distance of 49 miles from
Piedras Blancas, is Point Sur, sometimes called Lobos, making out nearly
half a mile. As seen from the North or South, at a distance of 11 miles, Point
Sur appears as a large, high, round-topped island; but upon approaching it
a low neck of land is seen, connecting it with the main. It is in lat. 36° 19'
North, long. 121° 52′ West.
The highest peak of the range bordering the coast lies 6 miles square in
from Point Sur, and attains an elevation of 4,414 feet. Still continuing on
the same bearing, 57 miles from Piedras Blancas, and 7½ miles from Point
Sur, another slightly projecting point is passed, about a mile to the eastward
of the course. Thence the course trends more to the eastward, running
N.N.W. for 8 miles to Point Cypress, and passing Point Carmel, the South
point of Carmel Bay.
The mountains, which had fallen back behind Los Esteros, gradually ap-
proach the shore-line North of San Simeon, and about 10 miles North of
Piedras Blancas; they came down abruptly to the coast, and run parallel
with it to Point Carmel, forming the boldest and most compact shore that
we have yet passed, and attaining a uniform elevation of nearly 4,000 feet.
These mountains were called by Cabrillo the Sierras Altas, but at present
the
range is known as the Sierra de Santa Lucia. From their abrupt faces
we have seen cascades falling from a height of 40 or 50 feet, directly into
the sea.
*
* On the opposite or eastern slope of the ridge is the valley of Salinas, through which
the Rio Buenaventura flows. The hills are rendered much more fertile by their exposure
to the fogs and mists of the coast, which supply them plentifully with moisture, and this is
seen running in many rills down the hill sides.
The valley of Salinas is 50 miles in length, and has an average width of 6 or 7 miles
the valley descends to the N.W., and at its lower end is contracted by the hills through
which the river passes, a low and well-wooded bottom being formed on each side. The
whole of it is well drained, and admirably adapted for stock farms. It may be called an
open country covered with grass; the tops of the hills are covered with oaks, pines, and
cedars.
The river having passed through a narrow range of hills, the valley again opens and now
receives the name of La Soledad, which is 20 miles wide, and extends to the Bay of Mon-
terey. The land on either side rises into undulating hills, and from these into mountains,
176
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
CARMEL BAY.-Between Point Carmel and Point Cypress, which are
about 3 miles apart, lies the small, rocky and unsafe bay of Carmel. At the
southern extremity is a small cove, sufficiently land-locked and protected for
small vessels. In the vicinity there is an extensive quarry of granite, and
several small coasting vessels are employed for its transportation to San
Francisco, but there is so little space that they are compelled to warp in and
out by buoys placed at the entrance. Point Cypress, the North point of the
bay, is low, and covered with cypress to the water, and is the first wooded
point met with in coming from the southward. The upper branches of the
trees are spread out by the influence of the strong prevailing winds, and
present a flat umbrella-like appearance.
←
The Mission del Carmelo is situated but a short distance from the shores of
the bay, and can be seen from the water in certain directions. From Point
Cypress to Point Pinos the general direction of the shore is N. & E., and the
distance 4 miles.
POINT PINOS makes out as a low rounding point, bringing the pines,
with which it is covered, within a quarter of a mile of the shore, off which
the rocks make out a quarter of a mile, and the line of 3 fathoms nearly
half a mile, when the depth suddenly increases to 10 or 15 fathoms, and at
a mile reaches 40 or 45 fathoms. The 3-fathom line follows the shore
within a third or half a mile into Monterey, whilst outside of that line the
depth increases as suddenly as off the point. Vessels should always give
Point Pinos a good berth, as a very heavy swell almost invariably sets upon
it. This point is the northern termination of the long and elevated range,
called Sierra de Santa Lucia, extending southward, and forming the bold
rocky coast-line to San Luis Obispo.
The Lighthouse is a secondary sea-coast light, situated upon the N.W.
part of Point Pinos, at the face of the growth of pines. The building is of
grey granite, and shows a fixed light of the natural colour, elevated 91 feet,
and seen from 14 to 17 miles off. It is in lat. 36° 37′ 58.1" N., long. 121°
55′ W., or in time 8h 7m 40.0's.
BAY OF MONTEREY.
Point Pinos forms the S.W. point of this bay, and Punta de la Santa
Cruz (forming the western shore of the anchorage of Santa Cruz), the N.W.
point. A line joining these two points runs N. 27° W. 193 miles, and the
greatest width of the bay, near the mouth of the Salinas River, is 93 miles.
From Point Pinos to the anchorage off the town of Monterey the course is
some 2,000 feet high. The valley of La Soledad is considered very fertile, the plains
affording large areas of arable land, while the hills are covered with grass and groves of
oak, and the mountains with trees of higher growth.
BAY OF MONTEREY.
177
E. by S. S., and the distance 3 miles. The shore towards the town is
rugged, composed of granite, and covered with a heavy growth of fir; but
to the eastward of the town is a long sandy beach, backed by sand dunes of
slight elevation. For a distance of 10 miles along this beach the line of 3
fathoms lies at a distance of 150 yards off shore, the water deepening rapidly
beyond that, and the bottom almost everywhere hard.
Vessels coming from the northward bound to Monterey, follow the coast
from Point Año Nuevo to Point Santa Cruz, then run well into the bay, but
not too far, for fear of losing the wind, and to avoid the set of the heavy
swell rolling towards the beach. Leaving Point Santa Cruz, and keeping
on a S.E. by E. course about 15 miles, will bring vessels into 25 fathoms,
and nearly 2 miles from the beach; thence a South course for 8 miles will
bring them to the anchorage in 10 fathoms, and half a mile from the land-
ing. These precautions are necessary, because Point Pinos, with the whole
bay, is almost continually enveloped in a dense fog. Very frequently the
coasting steamers have to run for the beach, and then be guided by the
route to the anchorage.
A direct course from Point Año Nuevo to the anchorage is S.E. E., and
the distance 36 miles. From Point Pinos to Point Año Nuevo the bearing
is N. 47° W. and the distance 34 miles.
By anchoring well in at the western side of the anchorage, vessels will
avoid much of the swell that comes in with the heavy N.W. winds, but
never sufficient to make any berth there dangerous. In heavy southerly
weather Point Pinos breaks the swell, but the wind draws very strong over
the anchorage. The water shoals from 15 to 3 fathoms in a distance of 300
yards, and the lead should be used to avoid running in too far.
When the California mail steam-ships stopped at Monterey they fre-
quently ran outside of Point Pinos, or in very dangerous proximity to it.
The end of the wharf abreast of the custom-house at Monterey is (approxi-
mate) lat. 36° 36′ 17" N., long. 121° 52′ 27" W.
The town of Monterey presents a very pretty appearance as seen from the
water. Immediately behind it the country rises in plateaus, diversified with
hill and valley, and beautifully dotted by oak groves. It was the capital of
California while under the rule of Mexico, and for some years after it be-
came a state. The whale fishery* has been vigorously pursued at Monterey,
during the season, which usually lasts nine months, from March to Novem-
* La Pérouse says, "I cannot express the number of whales with which we were sur-
rounded, nor yet their familiarity; they blew every half minute within half pistol shot of
our frigate, and occasioned a very strong smell in the air. We had not known of this
effect from whales, but the inhabitants told us that the water they spouted was impreg-
nated with this unpleasant odour, and that it extended to a considerable distance."
Many whales were also seen by Sir George Simpson, in 1842, the bay being a favourite
North Pacific.
N
178
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
ber. Regular communication is kept up with all parts of the coast by
steamers and sailing vessels. Stages communicate with Santa Cruz, and all
the towns to San Francisco.
Following the shore from the town of Monterey, northward, it presents a
uniform sand beach, running nearly North, backed by low dreary sand
dunes, producing sparsely the coarsest grasses and bushes, and entirely
destitute of fresh water. This waste extends to the Salinas River, of which
we reach the great bend at about 9 miles from Monterey, and only 100
yards from the beach. From Point Pinos it bears N. 30° E., and is distant
8 miles.
From this bend the river follows the line of the beach, just inside
of the low sand dunes, for a distance of 4 miles, and there disembogues.
From Point Pinos it bears N. 18° E., and is distant 122 miles. This river
has been designated by a variety of names, as Buenaventura, Monterey, and
Salinas, but it is now generally known by the latter. From its mouth,
which is only 60 yards wide at low water, to the entrance to the Rio del
Pajaro, or San Antonio, the distance is 24 miles, the shore trending to the
N.N.W. The entrance of that river bears N. 11° E., 14 miles from Point
Pinos. From here the coast runs N.W. nearly straight to Atos Creek, a
distance of 7 or 8 miles, and about 6 miles E. by N. of Santa Cruz, with the
shore rocky and abrupt.
North of the Salinas River commence rich meadow and table lands, afford-
ing to the settler spots unsurpassed for productiveness, even in the prolific
state of California. A remarkable submarine valley, similar to that off
Point Hueneme, has been discovered, and to some extent traced out in this
bay. The head of the valley is five-eighths of a mile South of the mouth of
the Salinas River, and the 20-fathoms line is only a quarter of a mile off the
beach, the depth increasing to 50 fathoms in the next quarter of a mile. At
this distance from shore the 20-fathoms lines are three-eighths of a mile
apart. The general direction of the valley for the next 2 miles is S.W. 14
W., where we find a depth of 117 fathoms, and the 50-fathoms lines lie
about five-eighths of a mile apart; thence the valley runs about West,
reaching a depth of 170 fathoms in a mile, and 240 fathoms in 3 miles
with 42 fathoms less than a mile to the North of this. The soundings are
not numerous enough to trace its outlines in deep water, but the indications
are, that for 10 miles of its length it runs S. 60° W., with no bottom at 315
fathoms. The only available boat landing upon the beach of the bay shores.
is at the head of this submarine valley. There are no indications on the
resort of that animal; the shark, the cod, and the sardine also abound: the last is some-
times thrown in millions on to the beach by westerly gales.
The whale has been known to burst among his human persecutors with the report of a
cannon, and almost to suffocate them with the stench.
SANTA CRUZ HARBOUR..
179
land of this peculiar formation, except that at its head the bay very gradually
reaches its greatest easting.
The extensive valley, called the Salinas Plains, through which comes the
Salinas River, extends inland from the eastern part of Monterey Bay.
It has been before alluded to on page 175 (note).
SANTA CRUZ HARBOUR.-This harbour or anchorage is at the N.W.
part of the Bay of Monterey, and is of very limited extent. It is protected
from all the winds from the northward, but exposed to the full sweep of the
southerly gales, and many coasters have been driven ashore during the
winter season. It is about three-quarters of a mile in depth northward, by
1 mile E. and W.
Vessels coming from the northward, after leaving Point Año Nuevo, follow
the coast line on a general course E.S.E. for about 18 miles. The shore for
this distance is abrupt, jagged, and moderately elevated, with a range of
high hills, or mountains, whose summits in summer all almost continually
enveloped in fog. Skirting the shore at a distance of half a mile, a depth
of from 6 to 10 fathoms can be carried; and upon making Point Santa
Cruz, the top of which is moderately level for some distance back, 4 fathoms
are obtained within a quarter of a mile of it; round up and run along in 5
fathoms until abreast of the beach, where good anchorage will be found half
a mile from the shore. Vessels from the South in summer keep well into
Monterey Bay, to escape the full force of the north-westers and the heavy
head sea.
During the winter months anchor well out, so as to be able to clear the
shore westward of Point Santa Cruz, in case a south-easter springs up.
Landing on the beach is generally disagreeable, as it extends out some
distance, but boats usually land at the embarcadero, at the foot of the bluff,
in the N.W. part of the harbour. The beach is over half a mile in length,
and between its eastern extremity and the bluff point empties the San Lo-
renzo River, a small stream running past the town and mission, which is
situated a mile inland.
The country about Santa Cruz is exceedingly productive, and now thickly
settled. A steamer runs regularly in the trade between this place and San
Francisco, and numerous coasters find abundant freight from here and the
Pajaro country to San Francisco.
The high mountain, N. 25° E., 12 miles from Santa Cruz, is named
Mount Bache, and is 3,791 feet high.
It is high water here at 10h 18m; springs rise 5 feet; neaps, 2 feet 10
inches.
3
4
From Point Santa Cruz to Point Año Nuevo the distance is 18 miles, and
the general direction W. by N. & N., at first curving to the south-westward
of that course, and then to the northward, until within three miles of the
rock of Point Año Nuevo, when the shore curves well to westward (for the
N 2
180
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
last mile to the S.W.), forming an anchorage protected somewhat against
the heavy swell from the N.W., and having a depth of 5 fathoms within less
than half a mile from the shore, and from 10 to 15 fathoms at the distance
of a mile.
Point Ano Nuevo.-At a quarter of a mile from the point lies a black
jagged islet, consisting of a sloping ledge of rocks covered with a stratum of
yellow clay about 4 feet thick, and this again covered with a mound of sand.
about 30 feet high. Upon this a lighthouse is to be built. The point itself
is composed of rolling hills of shifting sand, varying from 20 to 100 feet in
height, while behind them rises the Santa Cruz range of mountains. The
coast trail which followed the beach from the southward here strikes up the
hills behind the sand dunes. Steamers coming upon the coast from the
southward in thick weather, always endeavour to make the land near Point
Año Nuevo, and then follow the coast to the San Francisco bar.
The high moun-
distant 13 miles,
Two miles North
From Point Año Nuevo, the coast runs N.W. 2 N. for about 10 miles to
the rocky point called the Punta de la Balsa, but designated Point Mira-
montes, on the coast survey reconnaissance sheet, in 1853.
tain square, in from La Bolsa, bearing N. 53° E., and
named Black Mountain, attains an elevation of 2,809 feet.
of La Bolsa empties the Piscador, a small stream running through a valley
of inconsiderable extent. For the foregoing 12 miles, the general formation
of the immediate seaboard is that of a table land of three terraces, the
lowest gradually sloping from the base of the second to the coast which
is exceedingly rocky and forbidding. The underlying stratum is sand-
stone.
1
From Point Año Nuevo to Pillar Point or Punta de Corral Tierra, forming
the southern and western point of Half-moon Bay, the general direction is
N.W. by N. 4 N., and the distance 25 miles. Three miles and a quarter
above the Piscador, opens the San Gregorio, another small stream, and 21
miles still further, opens the Tunitas. The seaboard between the valley of
the Piscador and that of the San Gregorio undergo a striking change
both in the character of its topography and its geology. Instead of the
table-land we meet with a spur of the coast mountains running into the sea,
and having an elevation of 600 feet within a mile of it. The shore line and
the coast generally present a very rugged and broken appearance, occasioned
by the deep gulches cut through to the ocean.
HALF-MOON BAY.-This anchorage is S.S.E. from Point San Pedro, and
18 miles S. by E. from the Golden Gate. The south-western point of the
bay is formed by a bluff table-land, about 160 feet in height, called the
Corral de Tierra, 325 yards South of which stretches a number of black
rocks, which show as one when seen coming up the coast; but as three or
four when approached from the N.W. The largest is nearly as high as the
bluff, and locally known as Sail Rock, or Pillar Rock. The point is known as
HALF-MOON BAY.
1-8
181
Pillar Point, and from its south-eastern extremity rocky and foul bottom,
marked by kelp, extends S.E. E., seven-eighths of a mile, dropping sud-
denly from 14 feet to 5 fathoms. This is the inner reef, and makes the bay
available as a summer anchorage One mile and three-quarters S.E. from
the same part of the point, a narrow ledge of rocky bottom, one-third of a
mile long, and marked by kelp, stretches in the same general direction. The
passage between this outer and the inner reef is three-quarters of a mile
wide, with rocky and uneven bottom, from 3 to 10 fathoms. These ledges.
lie parallel with the coast mountains, and with the shore line, from which
the outer one is distant 13 mile. From the eastern extremity of the point
the shore runs N.W. by N. for a quarter of a mile; then N.E. for three-
quarters of a mile, curving to the eastward and south-eastward in a long
bend for 2 miles to the mouth of the Arroyo de los Pillarcitos, down which
comes the only road crossing the peninsula of San Francisco, between the
Laguna de Mercedes and Santa Cruz. The highest part of this road, which
crosses a depression of the peninsula, is near the coast survey station ridge,
which is 1,093 feet above the ocean, and but a few feet higher than the
road. The outer reef is nearly abreast of the Pillarcitos, from which the
coast runs South 4 miles to Miramontes Point, which is S. 48° E., 5 miles
from Pillar Point, thence to the mouth of the Trinitas the distance is 4 miles
S.E. The greatest extent of the bay may be said to be between Pillar and
Miramontes Points; but the part near the former only is available.
The soundings between the rocky ledges and the shore are quite regular,
decreasing from 9 to 3 fathoms, at less than a quarter of a mile from the
beach, with sandy bottom. The passage to the anchorage is between the
inner and outer reef, with the high, bare-topped mountain bearing a little
North of East, and Pillar Point open to the westward. This mountain is
steep, with straggling red woods on its flanks, and the summit bare. It is
locally known as Bald Pate; but on the Spanish grauts as Cumbra de las
Auras. When inside the reefs, beat up until Pillar Point bears about S.W.,
distant half a mile, and anchor in 4 fathoms, hard sand. With southerly
light winds a heavy swell sets in; but upon the approach of heavy S.E.
weather, it is necessary to go to sea.
The mass of redwoods cresting the mountains of the peninsula cease ab-
ruptly abreast of Miramontes, and only stragglers are seen to the northward.
They are a good mark for recognising this part of the coast when coming in
from sea.
Around Half-moon Bay is a limited extent of agricultural country at the
seaward base of the mountains, and small coasters carry the produce to San
Francisco.
About one mile along the coast to the north-westward is a small boat har-
bour, 100 yards wide, formed and protected by outlying rocks, and having 33
fathoms in it. In the autumn months it is used as a whaling station.
182
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
About a thousand gallons of humpback oil were obtained in the fall of
1863.
Point San Pedro lies N.W. by N. † N., 30 miles from Point Año Nuevo,
and S. 12° E. from Point Lobos, at the entrance to the Golden Gate. It is
a black, bold, rocky promontory, over 500 feet high, having a high, large,
jagged rock at the northern part, and is a prominent and excellent mark for
making the entrance to San Francisco. The principal rock is nearly 100
feet high. Its South face is white, and shows the line of stratification plainly.
From the West the dip of the strata shows about 60 degrees to the north-
ward. It is connected with the main by some low rocks. Half a mile to
the N.E. of the point is the valley of San Pedro, from which the point takes
its name.
From Point San Pedro the bell-boat off the bar of San Fran-
cisco is distant 12 miles, and from Point Año Nuevo it is 40 miles upon a
N.W. by N. course.
The range of mountains forming the north-eastern shore of Monterey
Bay, and extending to Santa Cruz and Point Año Nuevo, is called Santa Cruz.
Thence northward to the Golden Gate, and forming the peninsula of San
Francisco, by bounding the bay on the West, the mountains are known
as the San Francisco or San Bruno range.
SAN FRANCISCO.
The port of San Francisco was discovered as late as the year 1769, and
that, too, not by the obvious mode of such an expedition, but by one over-
land. Perhaps one reason why it had been so overlooked by other navigators
is, that its narrow entrance is so frequently hidden by fog. In 1767, when the
Jesuits were replaced by the Franciscans, the Viceroy of Mexico, the Marquis
de Croix, finding that England and France were taking an interest in these
countries, as evidenced by the expeditions of Cook and Bougainville, and
that Russia, too, was steadily progressing from the North, proposed to the
ecclesiastics the colonization of this territory. Accordingly it was divided
into districts, and missions were planned for San Diego and Monterey, the
only two ports then known to exist in the upper province. Three vessels
were despatched from San Diego, but were eminently unfortunate, from the
fact that the N.W. or opposing winds blow during three-fourths of the
year. Under these circumstances the remainder of the distance was under-
taken by land, and though the explorers did not recognise what is now
Monterey, they made the far more valuable discovery of the inland sea to
which the name of the patron saint of their order, and of sailors in general,
was given.
The mission was founded, and its progress had but comparatively little to

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6
35'
310
Du Vrees Gr
10
8
Hunters P 7
5
Shag
51/1
R
5
Abbey Hill
San Leandro & B.
24
14
25
20
15
45
་
H.
SAN FRANCISCO.
183
do with the external world, and this little commercial importance was all
but annihilated by the revolution in 1836.
When Captain (afterwards Rear-Admiral) F. W. Beechey surveyed the
harbour in 1828, the place had but a few wretched adobe houses at Yerba
Buena, occupied by indolent half-breeds, with not the slightest indication
of the wonderful capabilities which were soon after to be developed. History.
affords no example of such a sudden rise in importance as California.
Scarcely a month had elapsed since its annexation to the United States
before the gold discovery by Captain Suter and others was made, and very
soon after the desolate harbour of San Francisco became crowded with
shipping, bringing an immense influx of gold seekers, and the ships, three
or four hundred in number, laid there, deserted by their crews, and in some
cases by their captains also. But this influx of people has left behind it the
permanent advantages of a settled population, and there can be no doubt.
but that San Francisco, the Queen of the Pacific, is destined to be one of
the most important centres of civilization and commerce that the world
possesses.
Besides the immense territory of which it is the commercial and political
capital, and its vast powers of production, it will command the commerce of
the North-east Pacific, and with it also that between the United States and
China, Japan, &c., and the numerous lines of immense steamers which now
sail to and from this port as a centre is one of the wonders of the present
century. This commercial importance will be enormously increased by the
Pacific railroad, completed in an unparalleled brief period at the end of
1869;
* so that but a very few days will suffice to connect this most remote
part of the world with European trade and travel. In 1867 its population
amounted to 131,000, and it was the tenth in order of amount of population
in the cities of the Union.
San Francisco is ill placed, as far as mere building facilities are concerned.
When the first houses were built in 1848 and 1849 they stood on a strip of
beach around the Cove of Yerba Buena, and at the foot of the steep and lofty
sand-hills. Dunes and cove have disappeared together; the hills have been
shot bodily into the bay, and the former harbour is now the business quarter
of the city. One great danger on this coast all its cities share in common:
three times within the present century the spot on which San Francisco
stands has been violently disturbed by subterranean forces.
The Contra Costa range is unbroken but by the single gap of the Golden
* The act creating the Pacific Railroad Company passed in 1862; the company were
bound to complete their line at the rate of 100 miles a year. They completed it at more
than three times that rate, at 2 miles per day at one end and 1 mile at the other. A good
account of the progress of this marvellous undertaking is given in Dr. Bell's "New
Tracks in North America," 1869.
184
SAN FRANCISCO.
Gate, and through this opening the cold winds rush in a never-ceasing gale,
spreading fan-like as soon as they have passed the Narrows. Hence it is
that the Golden Gate is called the "Keyhole," and the wind the "Keyhole
Breeze." Up country they make it raise the water for irrigation. In
winter there is a calm, and then the city is as sunny as the rest of Cali-
fornia. (Sir) C. Wentworth Dilke, M.P., 1868.
Although the entrance is easy, facilitated as it is by the excellent lights
and buoys which define its prominent points, or point out its few dangers,
we give unabridged the directions drawn by the U.S. coast survey officers in
1862, modified, of course, by the changes which have since been made.
The GOLDEN GATE is the entrance to the bay, and presents the cha-
racter of a great cleft or fissure in the sea-coast range of mountains, thereby
connecting the Bay of San Francisco with the Pacific Ocean. In approach-
ing it is difficult to imagine that a deep channel lies ahead, so clear is the
atmosphere and so well defined the Contra Costa mountains behind the bay.
Both shores are bold, broken into points, and rocky; but the northern is
much the bolder, rising almost perpendicularly from the water, attaining an
elevation of about 1,000 feet, but a short distance back, and in 7 miles rising
to 2,600 feet. On the South side, between the points, are stretches of low
beach; the hills are undulating and of moderate elevation, increasing very
gradually in altitude to the southward, and reaching a height of 1,250 feet
in about 6 or 8 miles. The chart of San Francisco entrance, which accom-
panies the annual coast survey report for 1856, shows the bold and charac-
teristic topography of the vicinity of the Golden Gate.
Point Boneta.-The North head of the entrance is formed by this Point;
a narrow, precipitous, rocky cape, nearly 300 feet high, and stretching from
the lighthouse about half a mile to the S.E. Behind it the mountains rise
rapidly to an elevation of 1,500 feet. During the dry season the deposit of
sea birds accumulates in such quantities on the ridge outside of Boneta
lighthouse, as to make the bluff show white, but the first heavy rain carries
it off, and then throughout the rainy season the point exhibits its natural
appearance. There are no dangers off the point, the line of three fathoms
rarely extending 300 yards from any portion of it. When the clipper ship
San Francisco was lost on this head, we are told that she first struck the
bluff inside the heads; was carried by the currents around the point, and
then cast ashore on the outside. From 5 to 6 fathoms can be found on every
side within a fifth of a mile of the point.
The Lighthouse is situated nearly half a mile from the extremity of the
point, and consists of a brick tower painted white, and surmounted by a
lantern painted black. From seaward it is seen projected against the dark,
high hills behind it, and in clear weather is a very plain object. Lat. 37°
49′ 10.0" N., long. 122° 30′ 50.3" W., or, in time, Sh 10m 3.4. From the light
POINT LOBOS.
185
t Point Boneta to that on Fort Point, the distance is 23 miles, and bearing
E. 1 N.
The fog bell on Point Boneta is in a frame building, just in advance of the
lighthouse, at an elevation of 270 feet. The bell weighs 1,500 pounds, and
during foggy and thick weather is struck six blows, at intervals of 16
seconds each, followed by a pause of 44 seconds.
POINT LOBOS.-The South head of the entrance to San Francisco Bay is
formed by this point, 375 feet high.
A fog bell is (or was) kept in operation by private enterprise. Upon the
round-topped hill behind the point is erected a large frame building for a
telegraph station, whence the electric wires run to the City of San Fran-
cisco. The first telegraphic message transmitted on the Pacific coast was
over these wires. Southward of the head the sand dunes are conspicuous,
and easily recognised features in approaching the entrance. The strong
N.W. summer winds, drawing in over the land, raise the white sand from
the three miles of broad beach, and carrying it inland over the hill-tops,
bury grass, bushes, and scrub oak. The quantity of sand driven in from this
beach is enormous, and its accumulation has greatly modified the topography
of the peninsula.
Off the western face of Point Lobos lie a number of black, jagged rocks,
about 50 feet high, but all within the 5-fathoms line, and close in-shore.
They are called Seal Rocks, and one of them shows a large arch from par-
ticular directions. The outer one bears from Point Boneta S.E. by S. S.,
and is distant 2 miles. From it the general trend of the shore runs in a
line to Fort Point for nearly a mile, to a short jutting high point, off which
lie the Mile Rocks. From this point the shore runs well to the eastward for
a mile, gradually trending to the North for a mile and a half to Fort Point.
In the deepest part of this bend the shore is low, with small hillocks rising
from the general surface and slope of the hills, and fronted by a long sand
beach.
Mile Rocks. These two rocks lie off Point Lobos, a short distance within
the limit of the entrance of the Golden Gate. They are small, near each
other, and have a height of 15 feet above water, with a good depth of water
all around and close to them; but the current twirls and eddies them about
in such a manner as to render a near approach anything but agreeable or
safe with a light wind. The inner and smaller rock is one-third of a mile
to the northward of the small jutting point inside of Point Lobos, and very
nearly 2 miles S. W. S. from Fort Point. Vessels running in on the line
of Fort Point and Alcatraz Island, pass less than half a mile from the outer
and larger rock. The rocks bear almost S.E. from Boneta light, and distant
1 mile. They were called "One Mile Rocks" by Beechey, in November,
1826.
Fort Point.—This was formerly a bold, narrow, jutting promontory of
186
SAN FRANCISCO.
hard serpentine rock, 107 feet above high water, and surmounted by a small
Mexican fortification, called Fort Blanco. The view from the point was
one of the finest in the harbour; but the whole headland has been cut down
to within a few feet of high water, and increased in area to form a large for-
tification. Upon the hill side rising behind it are houses for the accommoda-
tion of the commandant, officers, soldiers, and workmen. Eastward of the
point is a long substantial wharf, constructed for receiving stores, ordnance,
&c. Several large vessels have been lost on Fort Point, by venturing too
close during light airs and strong irregular currents.
The Lighthouse on Fort Point is a wooden building, painted white, and
situated outside of the fortifications, showing a fixed light at 52 feet, which
can be seen 12½ miles off. The South Farallon light is visible from a ves-
sel's deck when abreast of Fort Point. The fog bell at Fort Point is on the
eastern side of the lighthouse, and almost touching it. The bell weighs
1,092 pounds, and during foggy or thick weather is struck by machinery
five blows at intervals of 10 seconds, followed by a pause of 34 seconds.
The Bar off the entrance to the Bay of San Francisco, has a depth of 5
fathoms at the lowest tides. Its general form is that of a horseshoe, com-
mencing 4 miles southward, stretching out gradually to 6 miles abreast of
Point Lobos: and when nearly up to the parallel of Point Boneta, running
in shore towards that point, and forming the "Four-fathoms Bank," from
a distance of 4 miles down to 1. The average breadth of the bar within the
limits of the 6-fathoms curve is about one mile. It falls off outside to 10
fathoms in half a mile, and deepens gradually inside Not less than 5 fa-
thoms exist over the bar, when Point Boneta light bears between N.E. by
E. E., and N. by W. W.
13
No vessel should anchor on the bar if she can possibly avoid it; frequently
a heavy swell sets in without wind, and if the current is running strong
ebb, it allows little chance of escaping from an uncomfortable berth.
The flood-tide makes on the bar about 61 minutes earlier than at San
Francisco.
It has been given as a rule for steamers approaching in thick weather, to
run for the bar as nearly as they can estimate, keeping the lead going until
they strike 5 fathoms, and run on until the depth is increased, when the
armed lead should bring up gray sand with red specks, and they may con-
clude themselves within the bar. Recently it has been intimated that these
peculiarities of bottom exist also outside of the bar.
The fog sometimes stands like a wall, outside of a line from Fort Point
across the entrance, while the bay inside is beautifully clear. After the
greatest heat of the day is past, this fog creeps in and envelopes land and
water.
Buoy on the Four-fathoms Bank.-A first-class can buoy, with red and
black horizontal stripes, is placed at 4 fathoms at mean low water, near the
ALCATRAZ ISLAND AND LIGHT.
187
western and seaward end of the "Four-fathoms Bank" lying off Point Bo-
neta. The following bearings and distances will give its position. It is on
the prolongation of the line from Fort Point light to the extreme point of
Boneta. Point Boneta light bears E. 13° N., distant 3 miles.
graph station on Point Lobos bears E. 13° S., distant 5 miles.
part of the western ridge of Table Mountain bears N. 13° W.
spot having but 33 fathoms upon it outside this buoy, bearing S.
distant seven-eighths of a mile.
Outer tele-
The highest
There is a
34° W., and
The shores of the Golden Gate.-On the North side of the Golden Gate the
shores are very precipitous, with an occasional short stretch of sand beach at
the base of the bluffs, affording a boat landing. Point Diablo is the first
point inside Boneta, and bears N.E. by E. & E., distant 1 mile from it; be-
tween these the shore is indented about three-quarters of a mile, affording
a boat landing during smooth weather for the lighthouse people. In the
vicinity of Point Diablo the faces of the cliffs show of a reddish purple colour.
The red specks found on the bar are doubtless derived from the disintegra-
tion of these reddish cliffs.
4
From Point Diablo the shore is jagged and irregular to Lime Point Bluff,
495 feet high, distant one mile, and bearing N.E. E. Off this point are
several high rocks, but they are so close to the bluff as to be distinguishable
only from certain directions. From Lime Point Bluff to Fort Point the dis-
tance is barely a mile, and the bearing S. by E. 2 E. This is the narrowest
part of the Golden Gate. Thence the bay begins to open well to the N.E.
On the South side, eastward from Fort Point, the shore is low, flat, and
marshy, to Point San José, distant 2 miles, and bearing E. by N. This
point is moderately high, with a few houses clustering upon it, and is locally
known as Black Point. Off this reach was the "outer anchorage" of former
navigators, and the Presidio of San Francisco is seen a short distance
behind it.
4
From Point San José to North Point, at the base of Telegraph Hill, the
distance is one mile, and the bearing E. & N. All this space forms part of
the city of San Francisco, and is covered with houses. The shore here is de-
nominated the North Beach, and from about the middle of the lowest part
projects a long wharf over the flats to 3 fathoms water. This has naturally
caused a great deposit around it, and now only 43 feet of water can be obtained
at the N.W. part of the wharf at mean low water.
Telegraph Hill rises to a height of 301 feet above the mean level of the
bay, and is covered with houses to its summit wherever building room can
be obtained. The present plan of the city grades contemplates the entire
removal of this hill.
ALCATRAZ ISLAND and Light.-This is the first island that is opened
in entering the Golden Gate, and upon it is erected a lighthouse. The island
is nearly 600 yards long, in a W.N.W. direction, by about 260 in width,
188
SAN FRANCISCO.
and rises to an elevation of 135 feet above high water. The summit is flat,
falling away gently on all sides for some distance, and then at the sides
dropping perpendicularly. Deep water marks exist all round the island, and,
with the exception of one or two places, the sides are so steep that a landing
is effected with difficulty. Extensive fortifications are constructed upon it.
At the S.E. side a small pier has been built to receive stores, ordnance, and
materials. Off the N.W. part foul bottom makes out about 300 or 400
yards.
The lighthouse is built on the summit of the island, and bears N.W. from
Telegraph Hill, distant 13 mile; from Fort Point N.E. E., distant 27 miles.
The light is a fixed harbour light, illuminating the entire horizon. It is 160
feet above the level of the sea, and should he seen from the sea at a distance
of 14 miles.
The frame-work supporting the fog bell is built on the south-eastern ex-
tremity of the island, close to the water's edge, and is struck by machinery
four blows at intervals of eight seconds, followed by a pause of fifteen
seconds.
No hidden dangers have been discovered in the entrance outside of the line
from Fort Point to Lime Point Bluff, but there are several inside.
Presidio Shoal, having 3 fathoms upon it, lies 13 mile inside of Fort
Point, and bears N.E. by E. E. from it, or three-quarters of a point east-
ward of the line between the lights on Fort Point and Alcatraz Island. The
shoal is about 700 yards long within the 4-fathoms curve. It is very narrow,
shows sandy bottom, and has deep water all around it. Its general direction
is on the above mentioned bearing. From the shoalest part the Presidio
flagstaff bears S. E.
Anita Rock shows above water at low tides, and is situated 11 mile inside
of Fort Point, and bears E. by N. from it. It is only 300 yards from the
low beach, and has deep water close around it.
A spar buoy, painted red, with even numbers, has been placed in 3 fa-
thoms water, about half a cable's length due West from the shoalest part of
Anita rock. Vessels should not approach this buoy within a cable's length,
as a strong current sets across the rock. It was named after the United
States quartermaster's barque Anita that struck upon it.
3
Bird or Arch Rock is a small pyramidal rock, about 45 feet in diameter, 30
feet high, and bearing W. S., distant seven-eighths of a mile from the
lighthouse on Alcatraz Island. When seen in the direction from or towards
the Presidio Shoal, it presents a perforation at low tides.
Shag Rock is a low white-topped rock, about half a mile N.N.E. from Bird
Rock. From Alcatraz light it bears W. by N., distant 1 mile. For about
300 yards towards Alcatraz Island the bottom is foul and irregular, but out-
side that limit 10 fathoms are found. The rock shows about 4 feet above
the highest tides, being then not more than 8 or 10 feet in extent.
YERBA BUENA AND ANGEL ISLANDS.
189
Blossom Rock is a ledge having 5 feet water upon it at the lowest tides, and
within the 3-fathoms curve is about 300 by 200 yards in extent, with deep
water outside those limits. A spar buoy, painted with red and black hori-
zontal stripes, has been placed in 4 fathoms water, about half a cable's
length due South from the shoalest part of the ledge. Vessels should not
approach this buoy from any direction nearer than a cable's length. This
ledge bears E. by S. from Alcatraz light, and 13 mile distant, being almost
on the line joining the South points of Alcatraz and Yerba Buena Islands.
From the summit of Telegraph Hill it bears N. 6° W., distant one mile.
It was discovered, and named by Capt. Beechey, R.N., after his ship, in
November, 1826.
YERBA BUENA ISLAND is the large high island opened to the East
and South of Alcatraz, after entering the Golden Gate. The western point
of this island is 12 mile from Telegraph Hill, and the bearing N.E. by E.
Its peak is 343 feet high; the sides steep and irregular, and rising to a ridge
running nearly East and West. On the western or San Francisco side the
water is very deep close in shore, but from the N.W. point a 3-fathoms bank
extends 1 mile N.W. by N., spreading to the eastward for half a mile, and
thence running to the N.E. point. The wreck of the ship Crown Princess lies
in 5 fathoms on the western edge of this bank, and a day mark painted red
has been attached to her, consisting of a plank 7 inches by 3 inches, 30 feet
long, showing 15 feet above high water, with a board 5 feet long nailed
across just below the top. In early times this island is said to have
been densely covered with wood, and was known to navigators and whalers
as Wood Island. Now it has but a few scrubby trees.
ANGEL ISLAND.-When passing through the narrowest part of the
Golden Gate, this large island bears about N.N.E., and is seen as an island
for a very short time when in the narrowest part of the Golden Gate. It has
an irregular and bold shore-line of about 5 miles, and an area of one square
mile. It rises to a height of 771 feet, is covered with grass and bushes, and
cut in every direction by deep gulleys. As seen from the south-eastward it
appears part of the northern peninsula, but is divided from that on its N.W.
face by Raccoon Straits, three-quarters of a mile in width, having a depth of
water ranging from 10 to 30 fathoms, and a very strong current. A narrow,
high jutting point makes out from the S.E. portion of the island, bearing N.
3 W. from Alcatraz Island light, and distant 13 mile. From this head the
general trend of the southern face for over a mile is W. by S, toward Sauce-
lito Point.
4
Punta de los Cavallos is half a mile N.N.W. from Lime Point Bluff. The
shore line between them falls slightly back, and a very small valley makes
down from the hills behind.
Point Saucelito.-From Point Cavallos the general trend of the shore is
N.W. by N. for 1 mile to Point Sancelito, with nearly a straight shore-line.
190
SAN FRANCISCO.
One mile from Point Cavallos is the anchorage of Sancelito, where men-of-
war and whalers formerly anchored. It lies abreast of a few houses forming
the town of Saucelito, whence much of the water used in San Francisco was
formerly taken in steam water-boats. North of this anchorage is a large
bay, with but a few feet of water. From Saucelito Point to the western
point of Angel Island, the distance is 13 mile, and the bearing N.E. by E.
E.
To Peninsula Point, forming the south-western part of Raccoon
Strait, the distance is one mile, and bearing N.E. 3 E.
TIDES. —As a general rule, there are upon the Pacific Coast of the United
States one large and one small tide during each day, the heights of two
successive high waters-occurring one, a.m., and the other, p.m. of the same
twenty-four hours—and the intervals from the next preceding transit of the
moon are very different, so much so that at certain periods a rock which has
3 feet upon it at low tide may be awash on the next succeeding low
water.
These inequalities depend upon the moon's declination. They disappear
near the time of the moon's declination being nothing, and are greatest about
the time of its being greatest. The inequalities for low water are not the
same as for high, though they disappear and have the greatest value at
nearly the same times.
When the moon's declination is North, the higher of the two high tides of
the twenty-four hours occurs at San Francisco about eleven and a half hours
after the moon's transit; and when the declination is South, the lower of
the two high tides occurs at about that interval. The lower of the two low
waters of the day is the one which follows next the higher high water.
The corrected establishment, or mean interval between the moon's transit
and the time of high water at San Francisco, is 12h 6m. The mean rise and
fall of tides is 3.6 feet; of spring tides, 4.3 feet; and of neap tides 2.8 feet.
The mean duration of the flood is 6h 39m; of the ebb, 5h 51m; and of the
stand, 34m. The average difference between the corrected establishment of
the a.m. and p.m. tides of the same day is 1h 28m for high water, and 0h 38m.
for low water. The differences when the moon's declination is greatest are
2h 30m and 0h 48m. The average difference in height of these two tides is 1.1
foot for the high waters, and 2.2 feet for the low waters. When the moon's
declination is greatest those differences are 1.5 foot and 3.7 feet respectively.
The average difference of the higher high and lower low waters of the same
day is 5.2 feet, and when the moon's declination is greatest, 6.1 feet. The
higher high tide in the twenty-four hours occurs about 11h 22m after the
moon's upper transit (southing), when the moon's declination is North, and
about 1h 2m before, when South. The lower of the low waters, about 7¹ after
the higher high tide. The greatest observed difference between the two low
waters of one day was 5.3 feet, and the greatest difference between the higher
high and lower low waters of one day was 8.5 feet.
( 191 )
SAILING DIRECTIONS.
For approaching and entering San Francisco Bay. In approaching the coast
every opportunity should be seized for determining the vessel's position, as
fogs and thick weather prevail near the land. Vessels coming from the
southward make the coast about Point Año Nuevo (lat. 37° 7′ N.), and follow
it at a distance of 4 or 5 miles up to the bar. Steamers keep close under the
land for fear of losing it in foggy weather. Coming from the westward,
they first sight the South Farallon Island (lat. 37° 42′ N.), having the light-
house upon it, and keep upon either side of it; but it is preferable to go to
the southward, especially in thick weather, and at night, as the vicinity of
the island has not yet been surveyed in detail. From the South Farallon
lighthouse the Point Boneta light bears N.E. by E. 23 miles. Coming
from the north-westward they make Punta de los Reyes, 597 feet high, in
lat. 38° 0' N., lọng. 123° 0′ W., and pass within 2 or 3 miles of it, 15 fa-
thoms being found within a quarter of a mile from it, but vessels are apt
to lose the wind by getting too close under it. From the western extremity
of this point, the Point Boneta light bears E. 2 S., distant 25 miles, the
line passing over the tail of Duxbury Reef, at a distance of 174 miles from
Los Reyes.
3
4
The prolongation of the range from Alcatraz Island to Fort Point,
giving a course N.E. E. for vessels entering the Golden Gate, is desig-
nated by Sir Edward Belcher "the fair-way line; and he calls the
island and fort the " fairway marks.” But with a heavy swell on the
bar this range should be used merely as a line of reference, because on
the bar it passes over a small 5-fathoms spot, while half a fathom more
can be obtained for a distance of 2 miles, both North and South of it.
In clear weather, and with a favourable wind, a vessel can cross the bar
in not less than 5 fathoms from the line, having the North end of Alca-
traz Island just open by Point Boneta (N.E. by E. & E.) round to the
shore South of Point Lobos (N.W. by W. W.). Northward of the
§
former line the 4-fathoms bank (having 33 fathoms upon it), commences
one mile West of Boneta, and stretches out over 3 miles, with a breadth
of one mile. Upon this bank the clipper Golden Fleece struck in 1857,
and came into port with 7 or 8 feet of water in her hold. She was the
second of that name that was unfortunate in entering the harbour, the first
having been totally lost on Fort Point.
3
Between the eastern extremity of the "4-fathoms bank" and the shore,
the distance is seven-eighths of a mile, and within this space can be found the
deepest water for entering the harbour, but it would be dangerous for a sail-
ing vessel to attempt it with a flood tide and light winds. While it is break-
192
SAN FRANCISCO.
ing on the bank, only a heavy swell is found through this 8-fathoms chan-
nel, and small sail boats have passed in safety when they dared not try the
bar. We entered it in the brig Wyandot, in June, 1854, and the steam ship
Columbia frequently used it in leaving the harbour for the upper coast, when
the heavy weather on the bar would otherwise have delayed her in port.
Close in under the cliffs, 2 or 3 miles above Boneta, we anchored in 8 fathoms
muddy bottom.
During clear, moderate weather, any vessel can cross the bar, within the
limits we have mentioned, without running until she has got on the "fair-
way line," whereby she might lose her slant of wind. Should the wind fail,
or be light, and the current adverse, anchor outside the bar in 15 fathoms,
mud and fine sand; or after crossing the bar in 6 to 10 fathoms, fine gray
sand, with red specks in some places. Run in mid-channel between the heads,
avoid too close proximity to the northern shore, not only in entering, but in
leaving; the high, bold bluffs causing calms and baffling airs, even with a
south-easter blowing out. On the last of January, 1864, during a south-
easter, three vessels were at one time becalmed under the northern shore,
and baffled with variable airs and strong current eddies for several hours.
Between Fort Point and the opposite shore, take special care not to ap-
proach Fort Point too close, because the currents set round it irregularly and
with great rapidity, and the bottom is uneven and rocky. A depth of 69
fathoms is given in the centre of the channel. In the Golden Gate we have
measured an ebb current running about 6 miles per hour. As a general rule
the winds increase within the heads, drawing in very strongly abreast of Fort
Point. When off this point steer for Alcatraz lighthouse until the North
point of Telegraph Hill bears E. by S. Then steer to give it a berth of a
quarter of a mile, running through among the shipping.
In making the port at night, it is customary to cross the bar with Fort Point
light on with Alcatraz Island light; or better, the latter a little open to the
northward. But this practice frequently involves much delay and annoyance,
when the wind will not permit a vessel to attain this position without a tack.
With Boneta light bearing from N. by W. to N.E. by E., a vessel may boldly
run on within those limits, and unless there be a heavy swell safely cross the
4-fathoms bank. Give Boneta a berth of a mile, and when within the heads
and Boneta abeam, gradually open Alcatraz light North of Fort Point, until
abeam of the latter; then run for Alcatraz, until the lights of the shipping
show the vessel's position. Hauling up for them, anchor off the North
beach in 10 fathoms, or off the N.E. front of the city in 10 fathoms, soft
mud.
In coming upon the coast in thick foggy weather, sailing vessels should not run
into less than 50 fathoms, because the water around the South Farallon, and
off Point San Pedro and Punta de los Reyes, is very bold. It is believed,
however, that a 30-fathoms bank exists at a considerable distance to the
SAILING DIRECTIONS.
193
westward of the last. S.W. of the line passing through the Farallones and
Noon-day Rock, the 100-fathoms curve is only 4 miles distant, and the 50-
fathoms curve only 2 miles, with a very irregular bottom. If the Farallones
be made, a course can be easily laid for the bar, but it would be unadvisable
to run into less than 10 fathoms, soft mud, if the bell-boat be not heard, as
the set and strength of the currents off the bay are yet undetermined. Sir
Edward Belcher says, that being caught in a fog, he anchored in 15 fathoms
to the southward of the bar, and determined "that southerly of the fair-way
line the ebb tide set N.N.E., flood S.S.W." We suppose he means from the
N.N.E. and the S.S.W. During the season of freshets in the Sacramento
and tributaries, the discoloured water outside the bar will frequently point
out the position of the entrance.
Steamers in thick weather were accustomed to run close along the coast, and
endeavoured to make the land North of Point San Pedro, running in until
they got about 15 fathoms, and then laying a course for the bar, shoaling
upon it to about 5 fathoms, and then gradually deepening, while the fog-gun
gave the direction of Boneta light. Before the establishment of the fog-gnn,
the steam-ship Tennessee was wrecked 2 miles North of Boneta, when seeking
for the entrance in a dense fog; the steam-ship S. S. Lewis, just North of
Duxbury Reef; and the U.S. revenue brig Lawrence, between Points Lobos
and San Pedro. Steamers and clippers are afraid to approach the bar in
thick weather. We have entered in a dense fog without hearing the bell,
and the general opinion is that it is ineffective.
In beating out, vessels start on the last quarter of the flood, make the first
tack to the northward of the Blossom Rock, and weather it on the second ;
thence they keep between Alcatraz and the South shore, avoiding Bird Rock,
one mile West of the South end of the island, and giving a good berth to
Fort Point, past which the ebb current will carry them rapidly (with a strong
tendency towards the South shore), and a couple more tacks carry them clear
of the heads. If the vessel be bound to the northward, and the weather shut
in thick, with the wind to the N.W., she makes a tack off shore to the
southward of the Farallones; if the weather be clear, short tacks are made
off shore until she works off to Los Reyes, because the sea to the leeward of
that headland is much smoother, and the current less; then stands off until
a course can be made for her port.
The Winds.-It has been advised to work close along shore to northern
ports during the summer N.W. winds, and take the chances of land breezes
to make latitude, but the attempt will double the length of any voyage.
Baffling light airs and calms frequently exist along the coast, while vessels
several hundred miles off have strong N.W. winds. Moreover, along the
coast we know that the current frequently sets 2 miles per hour from the
northward, except very close under the shores. In our experience we never
yet have met a wind off the land North of San Francisco, and very rarely
North Pacific.
0
194
SAN FRANCISCO.
indeed South of it, except in the region of the Santa Barbara channel. As
a general rule it may be safely stated that the summer winds follow the line
of the coast nearly, and gradually draw towards and over the land. In
winter, with winds from the southward, this is not so marked.
From April to October, inclusive, the prevailing wind is from the N.W.,
changing to West in valleys opening upon the coast, but in no case so
strongly as through the Golden Gate. During the summer the wind sets in
strong about 10 a.m., increasing until nearly sunset, when it begins to die
away. During its height it almost regularly brings in a dense fog, which
working its way over the peninsula, meets that already advanced through
the Golden Gate, and envelopes San Francisco and the bay by sunset. As a
rule the breeze does not dispel the fog. If a fog exist outside, the wind
is sure to bring it in, but the heated earth dissipates it for a time.
From November to March the wind is frequently from the S.E., blowing
heavily, working round to the S.W., with a large and broken swell from the
S.W., weather thick, rainy, and squally; the wind not unfrequently ending
at N.W., with an ugly cross sea. During heavy south-easters, the sea
breaks upon the San Francisco bar, clean across the entrance, presenting a
fearful sight. The sound can be heard at the anchorage in front of the city.
During some winters a hard "norther" will spring up and blow steadily and
strongly from one to five days, with a clear blue sky, and cold bracing
weather. Winds rarely blow from points between North, round by the East,
to S.E.
The further North we advance the heavier blow the gales in the winter.
The N.W. winds are not predicted by the barometer, but from the S.E. al-
most invariably, the mercury falling one inch from its usual height of about
30 inches. When it begins to rise the wind may be looked upon as soon to
shift round by the West, and to decrease. Only in one instance during our
experience has this failed, and that was off the Strait of Juan de Fuca. On
the tops of the mountains bordering the coast, light, variable, and easterly
airs are frequently experienced, while the N.W. winds are blowing freshly
along the sea-board. Upon Sulphur Peak, in lat. 38° 46′, and 26 miles from
the coast, we have had fresh breezes from the E.N.E., whilst the usual North
winds were prevailing off shore. On Ross Mountain, only 3 miles from the
sea, and rising 2,197 feet from the right bank of the Slavianska River, we
found variable airs, when strong summer winds were blowing below.
DUXBURY POINT and Reef.-From Point Boneta to Duxbury Point,
forming the West side of Ballenas Bay, the course is W. by N. N., and
the distance 94 miles. The point, sometimes called Ballenas, is a table land
about 100 feet high, which stretches along the coast for a mile or more, and
gradually rises to a narrow, nearly treeless ridge, 1,389 feet high at its
BALLENAS BAY.
195
greatest elevation, and running in a straight line 25 miles N.W. W. to
Tomales Point. The old Californians expressively call it the Cuchilla Grande.
Parallel to this ridge on the East, and starting from the West end of the
great cross ridge of Table Mountain, runs another to the north-westward,
and the depression between them, abreast of Duxbury Point, forms the Bal-
lenas Bay, as it does the Tomales Bay farther up the coast. This depression
forms a long narrow valley, well watered and timbered, and in many places
cultivated. Two streams running into each bay have their sources nearer
the bay from which each runs. Duxbury Reef makes out 1 mile S.E. & S.
from the southern extremity of the point, and stretching towards Point Bo-
neta forms a safe anchorage in northerly weather. From the tail of the reef
to the rocky point E.N.E. from it, the distance is 3 miles, and from this line
to the greatest bend of the bay the distance is 1 mile.
BALLENAS BAY.-In this bay the 3-fathoms line makes off three-quarters
of a mile from the S.E. face of Duxbury Point, but approaching the low sand
beach East of the narrow entrance to the lagoon. From 4 to 8 fathoms of
water, with a regular bottom of sand and mud, are found in the bay, and 6
fathoms quite close to the reef. From Duxbury Point to the bluff, at the
entrance to the lagoon, the distance is 1 mile N.E. by N.
The lagoon North of the bay is at the foot of the mountains, and except
small crooked channels, is bare at low tides, and filled with small islets. The
South side of this lagoon is bounded by a long, narrow, sand spit, stretching
so nearly across it as to leave an entrance of but 100 yards wide at the
S.W. part. Only a few small vessels run between this place and San
Francisco.
The shore North of Boneta Point is bold and high, presenting a marked
and peculiar undulating surface at right angles to the sea front.
North of Duxbury the hard rocky shore continues bold and high, but gra-
dually merges into cliffs, consisting chiefly of yellowish clay and sand rest-
ing upon granite; and as the surface is regularly undulating, with the direc-
tion of the alternate ridges and valleys at right angles to the shore, the
wearing action of the surf forms a continuous series of round-topped, bright,
vertical bluffs, averaging 100 feet high, and presenting a very noticeable
feature from the sea. Its resemblance to portions of the coast of England
was one of the reasons which induced Drake to apply the name New Albion
to the country in June, 1579.
The mountains in the back ground rise over 2,000 feet, and the "Table
Mountain," of Beechey, attains an elevation of 2,604 feet, stretches nearly
2 miles inland at right angles to the coast, and forms a prominent mark from
seaward, and from the Bay of San Francisco. A few large trees are seen
along the top of the main ridge, running parallel with the coast and behind
the valley, connecting Ballenas and Tomales Bays.
o 2
196
SAN FRANCISCO.
SIR FRANCIS DRAKE'S BAY.-From the tail of Duxbury Reef to the
West end of Los Reyes, the course is W. 2 N., and distance 17 miles, To
the East end the course is W. by N., distance 143 miles. From Duxbury
the shore is bold and compact, running nearly N.W. by W. for about 10
miles, then curving regularly to the westward, changing to a low shore, until
it reaches its greatest latitude at the Estero de Limantour, which bears N.
by E. E. from the East end of Los Reyes, distant 3 miles, thence the line
curves to the southward and S. W., one mile West of the point, leaving a
long, high, narrow point stretching to the East, and off which the breakers
extend half a mile. This curving shore line forms Sir Francis Drake's bay,
which affords a large and admirable anchorage in north-west weather: and
by anchoring close in under the North side of the point in 4 or 5 fathoms,
hard bottom, good but contracted anchorage is obtained in S.E. gales, as the
swell rolling in from the S.W. is broken by the reef.
Several esteros or lagoons open into the North side of the bay, but their
entrances are very narrow and shoal. The largest is the Estero de Liman-
tour, which stretches to the northward over 3 miles, and one of its numerous
arms approaches within a mile of the ocean beach, 5 miles North of Point
Reyes Head. The entrance to this lagoon has 8 feet water, and is gene-
rally marked by breakers on either hand. Coasters can enter with the pre-
vailing N.W. wind. It was named after Limantour, notorious for his at-
tempted great land claim fraud in California. He was a Frenchman, but a
citizen of Mexico, and asserted that in trading upon this coast in 1841, he
lost the Mexican vessel Ayachuco at the entrance to this estero.
POINT REYES.-This is the most prominent and remarkable headland
North of Point Concepcion. It is distinctly visible from the entrance to San
Francisco Bay, and the summit of the ridge presents an irregular jagged out-
line, with the highest part about one-fourth of its length from the western
extremity. Its southern face is a precipitous wall of hard sienitic granite,
rising boldly from the ocean, attaining an elevation of 597 feet in 300
yards, and stretching away nearly in a straight line E. by N. and W. by
S. for 3 miles. This direction is peculiar on the coast, and would not be ex-
pected from a consideration of the trend of the coast mountains, and of the
Farallones, which are in line N.W. and S.E. On the North side the cape
falls away regularly to a low undulating neck of land, cut up by esteros
making in from Drake's Bay. When made from the southward it is raised
as a long, high island; but on approaching it from the westward it is pro-
jected upon the mountains running North from Table Mountain, and its
characteristics are not so readily recognised. Its base is very broken and
rocky, and bordered by crags and hundreds of rocks, but they may be boldly
approached, and 8 fathoms, hard bottom, obtained within less than a
quarter of a mile. Off the eastern extremity a reef makes out half a mile
in continuation of the point. Upon this reef it breaks heavily in bad
THE FARALLONES.
197
southerly weather, but 9 fathoms can be had close to the breakers. Off the
western head a depth of 12 fathoms is found quite near to the rocks.*
Vessels bound to San Francisco from the northward always make Los
Reyes, and, when up to it, sight two mountains on the southern peninsula
of San Francisco as islands. One of these is Blue Mountain, 1,100 feet high,
the other Abbey Hill, 1,250 feet.
The Lighthouse of Punta de los Reyes will be placed about a quarter of
a mile from the western point. The ocean face is precipitous, and the light
will be at an elevation of about 500 feet above the water.
THE FARALLONES.
SOUTH FARALLON.-The southern and principal one of the six rocky
islets known as the Farallones de los Frayles, lies off the Golden Gate at a dis-
tance of 23 miles; the whole group is disposed in a nearly straight line,
running N.W. from the southern one. This is the largest and highest, ex-
tending nearly a mile East and West, attaining an elevation of about 340
feet above the sea, and presenting to the eye a mass of broken jagged rocks,
upon which no vegetation exists, except a few stunted weeds. The rocks are
sharp angular masses, which, becoming detached by the operation of natural
causes, roll down upon the more level parts of the island, and cover it with
irregular boulders. Notwithstanding that it is the outcrop of an immense
dyke of granite, the condition of the superficial portion is such that it could
be separated into small fragments by a pick or crowbar. A more desolate
and barren place can hardly be imagined. From the hills about the Golden
Gate the South Farallon is plainly visible, rising in regular pyramidal form.
Vessels from the westward, running for the Golden Gate, should keep to
the southward of the South Farallon, especially in thick weather and at
night. To the westward of it a depth of 50 fathoms is obtained at a dis-
tance of 3 miles, shoaling to 20 fathoms in 2 miles; whereas inside of it the
bottom is very regular at 30 fathoms for 10 miles, and then decreases regu-
larly to the bar. On the S.E. side of the island there is said to be good
holding-ground in 15 fathoms. The San Francisco pilot boats cruise off the
island.
South Farallon Light.-The tower stands on the highest peak of the
principal island. It is built of brick, 17 feet in height, and is surmounted
by a lantern and illuminating apparatus of the first order of Fresnel. It is
a revolving white light, showing a prolonged flash of 10 seconds every
minute throughout the horizon. It is elevated about 360 feet above the mean
level of the sea.
* The headland of Punta de los Reyes was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, but the present
name was given by Viscaino, in 1603.
198
SAN FRANCISCO.
Fog whistle on the South Farallon.-In January, 1859, a fog whistle, of 6
inches in diameter, was placed on the South side of the eastern part of the
island, about 275 feet from the water. It is erected over a natural hole, in
the roof of a subterranean passage connected with and open to the ocean,
and is blown by the rush of air through the passage, caused by the sea
breaking into its mouth. The sound should be heard in its vicinity at all
times (its loudness depending upon the height of the tide and the waves),
except about an hour and a half before and after low water, when the sea
does not enter the mouth of the passage. It is said to have been heard at
the distance of 7 or 8 miles.
The MIDDLE FARALLON is a single rock between 50 and 60 yards in
diameter, and rising 20 or 30 feet above the water. It lies N. 56° W., dis-
tant 2 miles from the lighthouse on the South Farallon. Its geographical
position is lat. 37° 43′ 31.6" N., long. 123° 0′ 54.9" W.
The NORTH FARALLONES lie nearly in a line with each other and the
Middle and South Farallones, and consist of a group of four islets, having a
pyramidal appearance as their name denotes, and comprised within a space
of little more than half a mile square. The northern three are quite high
and bold, the highest peak of the middle one attaining an elevation of 166
feet, whilst the southern one of the group is a mere rock of about 35 yards
in diameter, and hardly 20 feet above water. Viewed from the S.W. or
N.E. breakers extend across from the largest island to the next one S.E., and
during a heavy ground swell we have watched it from Point Reyes Hill,
breaking on an isolated sunken rock, lying apparently between the northern
and largest islet. From certain directions a small pyramidal detached peak
shows close to the North side of the northern islet.
The northern islet, therefore, bears N. 64° W., distant 6 miles from the
lighthouse on the South Farallon. From the lighthouse site of Punta de los
Reyes it bears South, distant 14 miles.
To the southward and eastward from the North Farallones, at a distance
of 2 miles, we are informed that a sunken rock exists, having 4 fathoms
water upon it, with kelp around it, except when torn away by storms. In
good weather the fishermen fish around it; but in bad weather the sea
breaks upon it. The Noon-day Rock, with 4 fathoms of water upon it, lies
W. by N., distant 3 miles from the North Farallones, with intervening rocky
bottom in 35 fathoms. Between them and Los Reyes the depth increases
to 50 fathoms about midway.*
* The Farallones de los Frayles were discovered by Ferrelo, in February, 1543, and he
is stated to have seen six islands in this vicinity, one large, and five very small, which
Cabrillo had passed on the previous voyage. He states that for five days it was impossible
to effect a landing upon them, on account of the S.W. winds and heavy sea.
Sir Francis Drake is the first that specially mentions them, in 1579, as lying off the har-
bour or bay, where he refitted his ships.
POINT TOMALES.
199
Noon-Day Rock.-This danger lies nearly on the prolongation of the line
from the South Farallon, through the North Farallones.
It is of very
limited extent, and is doubtless a sharp, isolated point of a small ledge,
having from 20 to 30 fathoms immediately around it. It is plainly visible
when directly over it, and has 3 fathoms of water upon it at mean low
water; but at the extreme low water of spring tides there will be hardly
more than 4 fathoms. In very heavy weather and low water the sea breaks
upon it, but this indication seldom exists, and must not be depended upon
for ascertaining its position.
Boneta light will not be visible from a ship's deck, but may be seen from
aloft under very favourable atmospheric circumstances.
In the description of the South Farallon, and in the directions for approach-
ing San Francisco, we have heretofore advised vessels approaching the
Golden Gate at night and in thick weather to keep to the southward of the
South Farallon light. This advice has now more significance, and should be
followed. With Punta de los Reyes and the Farallones in sight, vessels
bound in and running between them should keep the western head of Los
Reyes open on a N.N.E. course, coming, nothing to the eastward, until the
North and South Farallones are in range, then bear away for the Golden
Gate. In that position the rock will bear S.E., distant 2 miles. Coming
from the north-westward at night, vessels should not bring the South Faral-
lon light to bear anything East of S.E. by E., which will clear the rock by 2
miles, and the North Farallones by one mile.
South-west of the line passing through the Farallones and Noon-day Rock,
the 100-fathom curve is only 4 miles distant, and the 50-fathom curve only
2 miles, with very irregular bottom.*
17
POINT TOMALES and Tomales Bay.-Northward of Punta de los Reyes.
we find a long reach of broad white sand beach, backed by sand dunes, and
extending in a N. E. direction about 12 miles, curving to the N.W., and
changing to a high precipitous coast, running to Point Tomales, which
bears N. by W. 15 miles from Los Reyes. Three-quarters of a mile before
reaching the point a rocky islet 80 feet in height is seen close inshore.
Eight miles above Point Reyes is the opening to an estero, the North point
of which is low and sandy. The wider arm runs 1 mile towards the head of
the western branch of the Estero de Limantour, and little more than that
* New Shoal off San Francisco entranee.—It was reported, January, 1863, that a shoal had
been discovered about 80 miles S. W. from the S.E. Farallon. It is said to have but from 5
to 7 fathoms of water on it, and lies directly in the track of vessels bound into San
Francisco.
Shoal off the California Coast.—In latitude 37° 25′ N., and long. 137° 30′ W., rocks are
reported having but from 3 to 5 fathoms water upon them. This information was obtained
in 1855, and failing to ascertain anything more concerning it, it is now published to call
attention and invite further examination.
200
SAN FRANCISCO.
distance from it. The other arm runs nearly 1 mile to the north-westward.
The ridge forming Tomales Point and the western shore of Tomales Bay
is the northern extremity of that starting from Duxbury Point. About 41
miles from the point the ridge is 673 feet high, with slightly lower ground
a few miles South. It is where the sand dunes strike this ridge that the
coast changes its character; thence to the point it is bold and rocky, with
breakers about one-third of a mile off the point, and on the prolongation of
the ridge, which averages less than three-quarters of a mile in breadth for
the last 4 miles.
The BAY of TOMALES extends from Tomales Point S.E. E. for 12
miles, with an average width of seven-eighths of a mile. The entrance is
narrow, and obstructed by a bar having a depth of 10 feet, between sandy
humps of 7 feet. The bar lies nearly half a mile East of the extreme point,
and 400 yards from the bluffs. It is exposed to the full force of the N.W.
swell, and with the least swell from seaward it breaks across the whole en-
trance. For 2 or 3 miles this bay is contracted, but has a narrow deep
channel close under the western shore. Four miles within the point lies
a small island near the middle of the bay; beyond it the depth of water
becomes more regular.
BODEGA HEAD.-This point lies N.N.W. 18 miles from Los Reyes, and
forms the northern point of Bodega Bay, considering Tomales Point the
southern. The head is 200 or 300 feet high, with a slightly rounding summit,
and continues of nearly the same height for a mile or two northward, where it
changes to a broad sand beach, with low country near, but high hills in the
back ground. The face of the land about here begins to change from its uniform
want of trees, to hills partially covered. It has been frequently held out as a
warning not to mistake Bodega Head for Punta de los Reyes, but there exists
no reasonable ground for raising a question on this subject, although navi-
gators who have lost or jeopardised vessels offer as an excuse the great
similarity of the coast and headlands to those near the Golden Gate. We
have never been able to detect it. The highest part of the head is about 265
feet above the ocean. From an examination of this section, it is believed
that it is the continuation of the Tomales ridge.
BODEGA BAY.-From Tomales Point to Bodega Head the course is
N.W. W., and the distance 4 miles. The average width of the bay to
the eastward of the above line is 13 mile, with the shore running nearly a
parallel course. It is bordered by numerous rocks, is abrupt, and reaches
a height of 594 feet less than a mile inland. The anchorage lies between
the head and the mouth of the Estero Americano (called Avatcha by the
Russians), which lies E. 16° N., 23 miles from the head. One mile West of
the estero a low narrow sand-spit 1½ mile long, and covered with bushes,
stretches towards the head, within 100 yards of it, where a passage exists
BODEGA BAY.
201
for the waters of the extensive lagoon North of the sand spit, having small
and intricate channels, but almost destitute of water at low tides. The an-
chorage is half a mile outside of this passage, and about N. E. of the
rocky islet, in 5 or 6 fathoms, hard bottom of coarse sand and small patches
of clay. It is protected by the head and the low rocky islet and reef, about
three-quarters of a mile off the S.E. face, from the full force of the N.W.
swell, which generally rolls in disagreeably in the open part of the bay, if
the weather is heavy. The reef is densely covered with kelp, and the
breakers usually indicate its position. Between the islet and the head there
is a narrow 44-fathom passage, opening directly upon the anchorage. In
coming from the N.W. in summer this channel is available, but in beating
out it is too contracted to be safe. During the winter season it is necessary
to anchor well out, to be ready to slip and run, as the sea-room is very con-
tracted and the swell heavy. Some vessels have ridden out heavy south-
easters, but several have been lost. In beating out, the only danger is the
reef off the head.
On account of the general depression of the coast hills behind Bodega Bay
to about 500 or 600 feet elevation, and the valley in which the Estero Ameri-
cano lies, being perpendicular to the coast line, the summer winds draw in
towards the Petaluma valley with great force. The trunks of the oak trees
rise straight for about 10 feet, then bend almost at right angles, without a
branch for 10 or 15 feet, and terminate in a clump of branches all dragged
out by the force of the wind. Fogs are found drawing in sooner and more
frequently than upon any other part of the coast.
The country in the vicinity of the bay is very productive, both in the
valleys and upon the hills. The produce is placed in lighters at the "Port"
or embarcadero, about 1 mile within the lagoon, and carried by the current
to the anchorage.
A fine tract of agricultural country stretches behind the coast hills, ex-
tending from Russian River valley to Petaluma creek, by which channel the
produce of this region finds its way to San Francisco.
3
Fort Ross.-The rocky, contracted, and unsafe anchorage off this place is
N.W. & N. from Los Reyes, distant 32 miles, and 15 miles from Bodega
Head. The large white buildings of the Russians on the rising ground, and
about 100 feet above the sea, are the only marks for making it, and the
shore is so steep and guarded by rocks and reefs as to render approach
dangerous. No trade is now carried on here.* The shore between Bodega
* The property of the Russian establishment at Ross and Bodega had (August, 1841)
just been transferred to Captain Suter, of New Helvetia, at San Francisco, for the consi-
deration of 30,000 dollars. In the purchase was included all the stock, houses, arms,
202
SAN FRANCISCO.
Head and Fort Ross curves slightly to the eastward of the line joining the
two places. Sand dunes commence 1½ mile from the southern point of the
head, and extend 24 miles to the mouth of a small stream called Salmon
Creek; these dunes are bordered by a broad sand beach. Nine and a half
miles from the head the Slavianska of the Russians empties into the sea,
breaking through the coast hills that here reach an elevation of 2,200 feet
During the summer months a dry bar forms completely across the mouth of
the river, so that the travel along the coast passes over it. It requires
heavy rains to break through it, and forms again after a few weeks of dry
weather. During the summer the bed is dry above Healdsburgh, 30 miles
from the mouth, and can be forded in several places in that distance. Before
breaking through the coast hills it comes from the northward, through a
broad fertile valley. The arroyos and streams opening into the Russian
River near the coast are filled with a very dense growth of heavy redwood;
and in 1860 a tram-road was being graded along the coast to the lagoon in-
side of Bodega Head, to carry the lumber from the mill on the river.
From Ross Mountain, 2,198 feet in height, we have frequently watched
the discoloured water of the river working along close inshore to the north-
ward, and never to the South. The fishermen experience the same eddy
current. This stream is usually known as Russian River. De Mofras calls
it the San Sebastian.
Northward of this river again commence the high coast hills, covered with
timber, which gradually approaches the coast, and reaches it about halfway
utensils, and cattle belonging to the establishment. It was understood that this post was
abandoned, by order of the Russian Government, the Russian Company no longer having
any necessity to hold it to procure supplies, as they are now to be furnished under a
contract with the Hudson Bay Company; and by giving it up they avoid many heavy
expenses.
Bodega was first established by the Russians in 1812, under a permission of the then
Governor of Monterey to erect a few small huts for salting their beef. A small number of
men were left to superintend this business, which in a few years increased until the place
became of such importance in the eyes of the Spanish authorities, that on the Russians
attempting to establish themselves at San Francisco (on the Island of Yerba Buena), they
were ordered to leave the country. This they refused to do, and, having become too
strong to be removed by the Spanish force, they had been suffered to remain undisturbed
until the time of our visit.
From what I understood from the officers who had been in charge of Bodega, it had
been a very considerable expense to the Russian American Company to fortify it, and the
disposal of the whole, on almost any terms, must have been advantageous. Captain Suter
had commenced removing the stock, and transporting the guns, &c., to his establishment.
The buildings at the two posts numbered from fifty to sixty, and they frequently con-
tained a population of four or five hundred souls. Since the breaking up of the establish-
ment, the majority of the Russians returned to Sitka, the rest have remained in the employ
of the present owner.--Commodore Wilkes, U.S.N. Narrative, &c., vol. v. 179-80.
POINT ARENA.
203
to Fort Ross. The Russian vessels used this as a distinctive mark for
making that anchorage. Where the timber commences to skirt the coast a
bold spur of the mountains comes directly upon the sea. At Fort Ross there
is a small extent of open, cultivated ground, moderately low, but backed by
the high wooded country. The coast and coast hills to the northward are
mostly covered with dense forests of immense redwood, pine, and a thick
undergrowth. At one of the coast survey mountain stations over forty trees
were cut down that measured from 5 feet in diameter (spruce) to 81 feet
(redwood).
Two miles above Fort Ross is a small contracted anchorage, called Timber
Cove, where a great deal of lumber is sawed, and carried by coasters to San
Francisco. Eight miles above Ross is another contracted anchorage under
Salt Point, where coasters load lumber.
1
From Fort Ross to Punta de Arena the coast is almost straight, running
N.W. by W. W. for 37 miles. It is compact and abrupt the whole dis-
tance, covered with trees to the water's edge, and backed by an unbroken
ridge of hills about 2,000 feet high, and wooded to their summits.
Haven's Anchorage.-About 24 miles north-westward along the coast
from Fort Ross is a contracted anchorage, under high precipitous rocky
islets, with a short stretch of beach on the main, affording a boat landing.
There is a protection, when anchored close in, against heavy N.W. weather;
but it would be very difficult to recognize the locality unless the position of
a vessel approaching it were accurately determined. Northward of this an-
chorage high, bold rocks line the coast for 4 or 5 miles. They are generally
known as Fishing Rocks.
A few miles South of this anchorage is the mouth of the Walalla River,
open in the rainy season, but having a dry bar in summer. It rises South
of Fort Ross, behind the first range of coast hills. One of the coast survey
stations on the North side of the river, and 3 or 4 miles from the coast, has
an elevation of 2,192 feet, and this may be taken as the general height of
this coast range.
POINT ARENA.-This is the first prominent headland North of Los
Reyes, from which it bears N.W. W., distant 67 miles. Lat. 38° 57′ N.,
long. 123° 45′ W. Approached either from the northward or southward, it
presents a long level plateau, stretching out about 2 miles West of the
highlands, and terminating in a perpendicular bluff, that averages about 200
feet in height, except the extreme N.W. part, which is comparatively low,
partially covered with sand, and destitute of trees for some distance inland.
When seen from the southward, with the sun shining upon the face of the
bluff, it shows remarkably white for the length of 2 miles. In fact, no
point upon the coast presents such a bright appearance, or such uniform
vertical bluffs, composed of hard rocks, twisted and distorted into many
plications. Bold water is found close off the point, outside the kelp, which,
204
SAN FRANCISCO.
stretching strongly to the southward, shows the set and comparative strength
of the current.
About 2 miles southward of the point, a small contracted valley opens
upon the shore, and off it is an anchorage for small vessels, moderately well
protected from the N.W. swell, but open to the S. W. Several schooners
have gone ashore here. A large bed of kelp lies off the anchorage.
About a mile and a half N. by W. from the point are several rocks show-
ing just above water, and upon which the least swell breaks.
These were
noticed by Vancouver in October, 1793. When 1 mile broad off Arena a
high sharp pinnacle rock shows well out from the shore on the horizon to
the southward, with some rocky islets inside, and breakers well out beyond
the Pinnacle Rock, yet northward of it; but their distances from shore are
probably not so much as a mile. Ten miles above Point Arena is a small
stream called the Nevarro, upon which is a lumber mill. Articles floating
from this river are found on the coast to the northward of it.
Albion River. From Point Arena, the first point to the north-westward,
is 24 miles distant, and bearing N.W. by N. & N. After passing Arena the
coast trends to the eastward of North, and for 6 miles presents a low shore
line with sand beach, changing suddenly to a straight, high bluff shore,
with a few trees, and backed within half a mile by hills of 2,000 ft., covered
to their summits with wood. Sixteen and a half miles from Arena is the
mouth of the Albion River, a very small stream, with the barest apology
for a harbour at its mouth. A saw-mill upon this stream induces coasters
to obtain freights here, but a great many of those trading have been lost.
In 1853, the coast surveying steamer Active passed in, but broke her anchor
on the rocky bottom.
MENDOCINO BAY.-Twenty and a half miles from Arena, and 4 above
Albion River, is a contracted indentation called Mendocino Bay, available
for a few vessels in summer, but dangerous in winter. The northern and
southern points are about three-quarters of a mile apart, and the eastern
shore retreats nearly half a mile. At the southern head are several small
rocks, and one large islet surrounded by rocks, off which are heavy breakers.
Midway between the heads is a small reef upon which the sea breaks
heavily with very little swell. Deep water is found close around this reef.
Off the northern head is very bold water close to it. Into the N.E. part of
the bay enters the river Noyon, or Rio Grande, between 200 and 300 yards
wide, with a good channel on the southern side, a broad flat sand on the
northern, and a bar at the mouth with but a few feet of water, and upon
which it always breaks. The eastern shore is bold and rocky. In the
south-eastern part is a sand beach, with a reef extending from its centre.
The bay forms so slight an indentation in the coast line, that it is difficult
to find without acquaintance with its minutest peculiarities, as there are no
prominent marks by which to determine it. The North head is a table bluff
MENDOCINO BAY-SHELTER COVE.
205
about 60 feet high, and destitute of trees to the northward and some distance
in shore. The South bluff is likewise destitute of trees, but more irregular
in outline than the other. Vessels bound for it in summer work a little to
windward; then run boldly in towards the N. point, upon which the houses
become recognized, keep as close as possible along the shore, gradually
decreasing the distance to 100 yards just off the South end of the point in 6
fathoms, run on about 150 yards past the point, head up handsomely, and
anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms hard bottom. It is a bad berth in summer, and in
winter a vessel must anchor far enough out to be able to slip her cable and
go to sea upon the first appearance of a south-easter. Several vessels have
been driven ashore here.
An extensive saw-mill is located on the North side of the river some dis-
tance up; formerly (1853) it was on the North head, and a stationary engine
was placed near the mouth of the river to draw loaded cars up the inclined
plane, whence they were drawn to the mill. The lumber was slid down
chutes into large scows and carried to the anchorage. The place is now
sometimes called Meiggsville; formerly it was Mendocino City.
From the point just North of Mendocino Bay (the first one made from
Arena), the shore runs nearly straight for 28 miles N. by W. W., being
low and bounded by rocks for 12 miles, when the black hills reach the
water, and present an almost vertical front 2,000 feet in height.
3
From the deepest part of the bight the general trend of the coast to Cape
Mendocino is N.W. 2 W., and distant 45 miles, and for the whole of this
distance it is particularly bold and forbidding, the range of hills running
parallel to the shore and rising directly from it. It has been found impossi-
ble to travel along this stretch of seaboard; and the trail turns well into the
interior valleys.
Shelter Cove.-From the compact shore above described a plateau, desti-
tute of wood, and being from 60 to 300 feet in height, makes square out
just above latitude 40° N. for a distance of half a mile, affording an an-
chorage from N.W. winds, and may perhaps be regarded as a harbour of
refuge for small coasters which have experienced heavy weather off Cape
Mendocino, and are short of wood and water, both of which may be obtained
here from one or two gulches opening on the sea.
From Point Arena it bears N.W. by N. N., distant 65 miles. The
whole sea-face of the bluff is bounded by thousands of rocks above and
below water, and vessels coming from the North for shelter must give it a
wide berth, rounding it within one-third of a mile, and anchoring in 5
fathoms, hard bottom, about one-third of a mile from shore. In this position
fresh water comes down a ravine bearing about North, and an Indian
village existed in 1853 at the bottom of the wooded ravine, a little further
to the eastward. There is always a swell here, and boat landing may not
be very easy.
206
SAN FRANCISCO.
PUNTA GORDA is 17 miles N.W. by W. W. from Shelter Cove, and
as its name implies, is a large bold rounding point. Half a mile off it lies
a large rocky islet, with rocks close inshore, North of the point. From
Punta de Arena it bears N.W. & N., distant 81 miles, and the line passing
tangent to Punta Gorda runs 1 mile outside of Cape Mendocino. La Perouse
calls Cape Fortunas Punta Gorda.
3
4
CAPE MENDOCINO is 93 miles N.W. 3 N. from Punta de Arena. Here
the range of coast hills from the southward appears to meet a range coming
from the eastward, forming a mountainous headland of about 3,000 feet
high, which is the western limit of the N.W. trend of this section of the
coast. The cape is in lat. 40° 25′ N., long. 124° 22′ W.
Blunt's Rocks.-About 3 miles broad, off the cape, lies a reef, just under
water, known as Blunt's Rocks or Reef, upon which the sea generally
breaks. This reef was noticed by Vancouver as being about 1 league off
shore. Halfway between it and the cape, and a little to the southward, is
a sunken rock, which has been discovered within the last two or three years,
but not yet accurately located. It is called Fauntleroy's Rock. Steamers
have passed dangerously near it, and in 1857 it was distinctly seen almost
under the wheel of the steamship Commodore. Vessels can perhaps pass
over it in smooth weather, but with a heavy sea the water must break.
To the southward, and immediately off the pitch of the cape, lie numerous
rocks and rocky islets, the latter being large and high, with a peculiar pyra-
midal or sugar-loaf appearance. None of them seem to be more than half a
mile from the shore, which is almost perpendicular, and destitute of a
beach.
The face of the cape is very steep, rocky, and worn. Above this the
general appearance is rolling, and the surface covered with timber. The
pyramidal islets off it are very readily distinguished in approaching from the
North or South.
The LIGHTHOUSE on the W. extreme of Cape Mendocino, completed in
1868, is an iron polygonal tower painted white, and 20 feet high, surmounted
by a red dome to the lantern. It shows a lens light of the first order, revol-
ving in every 25 seconds, showing a bright flash of 5 seconds duration. It is
elevated 380 feet above the sea, and may be seen 27 miles off.
Seven miles South of Mendocino a small stream, called the Mattole, empties.
Upon the sides of the hills in Lower Mattole, and not above a mile from the
Pacific, coal oil springs were discovered in 1861. Along the course of this
stream are numerous bottom lands under cultivation.
CAPE FORTUNAS, or False Mendocino, lies northward of Cape Mendo-
cino, distant 5 or 6 miles, and is another bold spur of mountainous headland,
similar, and almost as high as that cape. Between the two the shore recedes
slightly, is depressed, and forms a beach, receiving a small stream called
Bear or Mc Donald's Creek, coming down through a narrow valley or gulch.
1
HUMBOLDT BAY.
207
Off this cape lie several rocky islets, presenting the same peculiarities as
those off Mendocino. There is no beach at the face of the almost perpen-
dicular sea face.
The vicinity of these headlands certainly deserves a detailed hydrographic
and topographical survey. It is reported that the soundings have been ob-
tained well to the westward of the cape; should such prove correct, the fact
will be of importance to vessels, especially steamers, bound North or South,
when near the coast and enveloped in fog, as it would enable them to judge
of their position, and change their course. After passing it the shore
changes to a straight, low, sandy beach, with valleys running some distance
inland. We have ventured to call this Cape Fortunas, to avoid the repeti-
tion of Mendocino, and to commemorate Ferrelo's (the pilot, and successor
of Cabrillo) discoveries.
Eel River is a small stream, with a bar at its mouth, and distant 14 miles
from Cape Mendocino. It is very contracted and crooked, receiving the
waters of a great many sloughs near its mouth, and draining a most fertile
valley, which is rapidly filling up with settlers.
HUMBOLDT BAY.-The entrance to this bay lies 21 miles from Sugar-loaf
Islet, off Cape Mendocino; and the bar N. by E., 22 miles from Blunt's
Rocks. The bar is 14 mile from the entrance between the sand points, or 2
miles from the S.W., and highest point of Red Bluff, which is the second
bluff above Eel River. Like all the bar rivers on this coast, it undergoes
irregular changes, depending much upon the prevalence, direction, and
strength of the wind. Early in 1851 it bore N. W., distant 2 miles from Red
Bluff, and about half a mile from the beach of the North Spit. Three and a
half fathoms were found upon it, with a width of 250 yards between the 3-
fathoms curves, retaining nearly the same width, and running on a S.W.
course towards the bluff, but approaching closer to the North than to the
South Spit. When between the two the depth of water was increased to 11
fathoms, suddenly shoaling to 4 fathoms inside. Vessels kept the North
Spit within 150 to 250 yards on the port hand for 2 or 3 miles after entering.
In the fall of 1852 the bar was reported to have moved to the northward
its entire width, and the ranges for going in, as laid down by the survey of
the previous year, were entirely useless.
In 1857 less than 13 feet at high tide could be found upon it, and its ex-
tent was very much increased. Eventually a deep and narrow channel will
be cut through. About 1852 a steam-tug was placed upon the bay, and has
rendered the most effective service in determining the changes of the bar.
When vessels are seen approaching the bar, a flag is hoisted on Red Bluff,
and a tug goes out to take them in. If it is breaking so heavily on the bar
that she cannot get through it, and it is yet practicable for the vessel to run
in, she takes up a position and hoists her flag as a signal for the vessel to
208
SAN FRANCISCO.
steer for her. She is invaluable in towing out the deeply laden lumber
vessels, as the summer winds blow directly in the channel.
The LIGHTHOUSE is erected on the North Spit, three-quarters of a mile
North of the entrance, and about midway between the bay and the sea shores.
It consists of a keeper's dwelling, with a tower rising 21 feet above the roof,
from the centre, both being whitewashed, and surmounted by an iron lan-
tern painted red. The light is a fixed white light of the fourth order of the
system of Fresnel, and illuminates the entire horizon. It is elevated 53 feet
above high water spring tides, visible 12 miles off.
The bay is situated immediately behind the low sand spits and dunes, and
extends 9 miles North, and 4 miles South of the entrance, being contracted
to less than half a mile in width between the South Spit and Red Bluff; it
then expands to nearly 3 miles, and runs a mile and a half to the eastward
of Table Bluff. The single channel running into this part of the bay divides
into two crooked ones, which contain from one to three fathoms of water;
all the rest shows a bare mud flat at low tides. Abreast of the entrance it
is nearly a mile in width, with extensive sands bare at low tides, lying mid-
way between the opposite shores, and running nearly parallel with them.
To the northward its average width is half a mile for a distance of 3 miles.
It then expands into a large shallow sheet of water, having two or three
crooked channels through it, but the greater part being bare at low tides,
showing extensive mud flats, bordered by a grassy flat nearly a mile in width.
In the channel way close to the North Spit, not less than 3 fathoms may be
carried, increasing for three miles to 6 fathoms. One mile North of the
entrance, and on the eastern side, enters a small stream, called Elk River.
Two miles North of the entrance, and on the East side, is situated the town
of Bucksport, off which a depth of 3 fathoms is found within 150 yards of
the shore. Vessels are got alongside the Saw-mill Wharf here at high tide
to load; at low tides they rest upon the muddy bottom.
The military station of Fort Humboldt is on a reservation on the bluff,
about 100 feet high, and immediately behind the town. On the same side,
and 4 miles North of the entrance, is the town of Eureka, off which is a por-
tion of the channel, having nearly 3 fathoms in it, but no channel reaching
it having more than 12 fathom. The town was laid out before this latter
fact was discovered. Vessels lie at the wharves, resting on the mud at low
tide. Abreast of Eureka lie several low marshy islands cut up by sloughs.
and ponds. The largest, called Indian Island, is about a mile long (N.E.) by
half a mile in width. It is marked by two hillocks, surmounted by clumps
of trees, near which were (1854) several wretched Indian huts. The smaller
islands lie between this and the eastern shore, and parallel with it. Arcata,
formerly Uniontown, is situated on the N.E. shore of the bay, and can only
be reached by boats at high tide. It is the starting point for the Trinity and
TRINIDAD HEAD AND BAY.
209
Klamath mines.
From it an extensive wharf stretches far out over the mud
flat, which vessels can reach at high tides.
The southern spit from the entrance to Table Bluff does not average one.
quarter of a mile in width, is formed of low sand dunes and grassy hillocks,
and bordered on the bay side by marsh. At the southern extremity rises
Table Bluff, which the name well describes, to a height of about 200 feet,
its western point nearly reaching the sea beach, and forming a good land-
mark for making the bay. Five miles East of it the hills commence rising.
Abreast of the North end of the South spit rises Red Bluff, presenting to the
entrance a perpendicular face, composed of sand and gravel, coloured by the
decomposition of iron ore near its surface, which is 96 feet above high water,
and destitute of tree or bush. The bay front of the bluff is about one-third
of a mile long, gradually declining to the low, flat land to the North, and
also falling away to the South and East. On this bluff the pilots have a flag-
staff to range with known points of trees beyond, by which they cross the
bar, and keep the run of its changes. The low land on the eastern shore,
above Red Bluff, averages half a mile in width, and runs as far as Eureka,
gradually changing to marsh, and bounded by plateaus and hills covered with
wood. The North Spit averages half a mile in width, and its southern ex-
tremity is composed of sand dunes and grassy hillocks, disposed in a marked
manner with the direction of the N. W. winds. Two miles from the entrance
trees cover the hillocks, and run northward one mile, when a space of a mile
occurs without them. After that they continue along the shore.
Mad River is said to empty into the sea about a mile North of Humboldt
Bay. It averages about 100 yards in width, with a bar at its entrance that
prevents egress; but the vast amount of timber in the valley must eventually
find a passage through a canal to the N.W. point of Humboldt Bay. A
deep slough from the latter is said to approach quite close to Mad River, thus
favouring the execution of such a project. This river is the Rio de los Tor-
tolas of Heceta and Bodega, 1775.
TRINIDAD HEAD lies N. W., 17 miles from the bar of Humboldt
Bay, and North 39 miles from Cape Mendocino. The low sand beach off
Humboldt continues past Mad River to within a couple of miles of Trinidad
Bay, when it changes to a bluff, guarded by innumerable rocks. For the
entire distance of the low beach a depth of from 10 to 15 fathoms may be
found one mile from the shore.
TRINIDAD BAY.—The bay or roadstead of Trinidad is very contracted,
but having deep water, and all dangers visible, forms a moderately good
summer anchorage. The "head" forming the western shore of the road-
stead, and a prominent mark when seen from close in, is about 375 feet high,
covered with a low, thick undergrowth of scrub bushes, has very steep sides,
and 8 fathoms close to its southern base. Off the western face, for nearly
half a mile out, lie several high rocky islets, with one half a mile South of it,
North Pacific.
P
210
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
but having 9 fathoms close to it. From the South face eastward to the 3-
fathoms curve, the distance is one mile, and the depth of the bight to the
northward of this line is about half a mile, with half a dozen rocks lying
outside the 3-fathoms line, but well above water. In the northern part of
the bay, there is a sand beach, extending about half a mile; thence eastward
the shore is very rocky, the bluff being about 300 feet high, and covered
with a heavy growth of timber. The town, formerly a place of some promise,
fronts on the N.W. part of the roadstead, and the boat landing is on the
North side of a round knoll, making out about 100 yards from the low neck
running to the "head." A wharf is now built here, at which vessels lie to
load lumber. A very considerable quantity of seaweed lies off the shore.
The neck near the town is in lat. 41° 3′ 20″ N., long. 124° 8′ 8″ W.
In working into the anchorage, beat in boldly past the outermost rock,
until the rock just off the eastern side of the head is in range with the knoll
(having a few trees upon it), between the town and the head, with the South
face of the head bearing W. by N., and anchor in 7 fathoms, hard bottom,
within one-third of a mile of the rock and head, having the neck visible to
the westward of the knoll, and a sugar-loaf rock beyond the neck showing
over it.
A swell will generally be found setting in. In winter it is a
dangerous anchorage, and if a vessel is unluckily caught, her chances of
riding out a south-easter are very few. The town during the winter is nearly
deserted, but a brisk trade is carried on in summer. The connection with
San Francisco by steamers is yet uncertain. The land in this vicinity is very
rich, and well adapted to agriculture. The redwood trees grow around it,
and attain an enormous size. The stump of one which we measured was
about 20 feet in diameter, and a dozen trees standing in the vicinity averaged
over 10 feet. One is affirmed to be standing on the bank of a small stream
at the S.E. part of the bay that measures over 90 feet in circumference. The
bark of these trees has a thickness of from 8 to 14 inches; they grow per-
fectly straight, retaining their thickness to a great height, begin to branch
at 50 or 100 feet, and frequently attain 250 feet in height. The forests of
this timber, when free from undergrowth, present an imposing sight.*
The shore running N.W. by N. from Trinidad Head for 5 miles is re-
markably broken and rocky, which induced Vancouver to call its northern
extremity Rocky Point. He placed it in 41° 8'. About 1 mile off it lie
several rocks that are sometimes known as the Turtles.
From Rocky Point the shore takes a gentle sweep eastward, making its
greatest indentation at the North end of the once famous Gold Bluff, in lat.
1
* Port Trinidad was discovered June 10th, 1775, by Heceta and Bodega, and placed in
lat. 41° 7' N. Near it they place a stream, which they call the Rio de los Tortolos, or
Pigeon River; this is now called Mad River.
KLAMATH RIVER.
.211
41° 27′ N., and long. 124° 3′ W., and then trending westward to Crescent
City. Gold Bluff has an extent of 10 miles, and is very bold and high.
Between Rocky Point and Gihon's Bluff, which is the first one to the north-
ward, there is a stretch of low sand beach, immediately behind which is an
extensive lagoon several miles in length, and from a quarter to one mile in
width. It lies parallel with the beach, and at some seasons is not connected
with the ocean, but at others an opening exists at the northern extremity.
The Indian name of this lagoon is Æ-shæ-sho-ran.
Redding's Rock lies 5 miles broad off Gold Bluff, in lat. 41° 21′, and
long. 124° 10'. It is a single, large, rocky islet, about 200 feet high, and
reported to have deep water all around it, with no outlying dangers, but its
vicinity has not been surveyed. Vancouver places it in lat. 41° 25′ on his
chart, and 4 miles off shore; but in the narrative states the distance at half
a league, and that it is half a mile in circuit. His track lies inside of it.
We have been informed that a reef, commencing at the shore 2 miles above
the rock, stretches out towards it. The rock received its present name in
1849 or 1850.
KLAMATH RIVER.-The mouth of this river is in lat. 41° 33′ N., long.
124° 5' W. It is perhaps 200 yards wide, having a long sand spit on the
South side, running N.W. and parallel to the high hills that form the North
shore. South of the entrance for a mile and a half are outlying rocks, and
at the North side of the entrance lie several others. It is reported to have
2 fathoms upon the bar. Upon passing it in 1853, within less than a mile,
the sea was breaking across it, and no appearance of a safe channel was pre-
sented. Small schooners enter it; but we have been assured that the mouth
was completely closed in the winters of 1851 and 1860, and that the bar
changes with every change of heavy weather.
Three or four miles northward of the Klamath is a small sharp indentation
at the mouth of a gulch, off which lie one large and several small rocks;
but from a distance of a mile and a half, we were unable to determine
whether any stream opened here. It has, however, received the name of
False Klamath, because it has misled small coasters seeking for the Klamath,
although there is no sand point on either side, as exists at the latter. The
State map of California has a creek, called Ahmen, opening here. The coast
continues bold for several miles, when the hills begin to recede, and the
shores present many pleasant slopes, unincumbered with forests, and
now under cultivation. The shore is low, and regularly sweeps to the
westward for a couple of miles, forming the roadstead which will next be
described.
CRESCENT CITY BAY.-This the most dangerous òf the roadsteads,
usually resorted to on the coast, has acquired much importance, on account
of the town (Crescent City) being the depot for the supplies of miners work-
ing the gold diggings on the Klamath, Trinity, and Salmon Rivers. It is
P 2
212.
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
3
4
filled with sunken rocks and reefs, and has a goodly number showing above
water. No vessel should think of gaining an anchorage here without a
pilot, or perfect knowledge of the hidden dangers. No sunken rocks are now
known to exist outside of the line of visible ones, except one awash, S.W. 2
W., and a little more than half a mile distant from the lighthouse. A depth
of 10 fathoms exists all around it, and 7 or 8 fathoms outside of the visible
rocks. The usual anchorage is on a line between the lighthouse and the
North side of the large islet, three-quarters of a mile East of it, in 31 fa-
thoms, hard bottom. To reach this position, run for the small round rock,
bearing S. 55° E. seven-eighths of a mile from the lighthouse; pass it on the
East side, giving it a berth of 100 yards; steer N. by W. W. for three-
eighths of a mile, passing 100 yards East of Fauntleroy Rock, which is
covered at three-quarters flood. If this rock be covered, its position is
generally marked by a breaker. It is necessary to keep it close aboard,
because there is a sharp bayonet rock, having only two feet of water on it,
and 200 yards to the eastward. Head up for the town, and anchor in 31
fathoms. To enter or leave it at night, as is done by the mail and coasting
steamers, requires a perfect local knowledge of the dangers and peculiarities
of the land-marks. Coasting steamers in fine weather usually anchor close
in shore to discharge freight, which is received in lighters.
4
A wharf has been built out from Battery Point, and landing is now
easily effected in good weather. In south-easters, the breakers wash
over it.
In summer there is always some swell here, but in winter it rolls fearfully
and vessels must choose a position to be ready to run to sea at the approach
of a south-easter.
Communication is maintained with San Francisco and other ports by
mail and coasting steamers, which generally carry as may passengers and
as much freight for this place, as they carry to the Columbia River.
The town lies N.W. from the anchorage, immediately on the low shore;
old drift logs, in some instances, forming the foundation for wooden houses.
In August, 1853, there were about 135 houses of all descriptions. In 1860
the population was 553, and the number of houses 176.
The lands adjacent are being cultivated; a grist mill has been built,
and a good trail leads to the "diggings" on the Klamath and Illinois
Rivers.
The S.W. point of the bay is elevated about 25 feet, and continues so to
the westward. The lighthouse is erected on the rocky islet about 300 yards.
from the point, and connected with it at low tides by a broken mass of rocks,
over which a single foot-bridge is constructed.
The LIGHTHOUSE consists of a keeper's dwelling, of stone, the natural
colour (grey), with a low tower of brick, plastered and whitewashed, rising
POINT ST. GEORGE-PELICAN BAY.
213
from the centre, and surmounted by an iron lantern painted red. It is
situated at the S.W. part of the roadstead, on the seaward extremity of the
island point, which is here about 45 feet above high water.
The light is a fixed white light, varied by flashes, of the fourth order of
Fresnel. The interval of flash is 1m 30°. It illuminates 315° of the horizon,
was first exhibited on December 10th, 1856, and shows from sunset to sun-
rise. It is 80 feet above high sea level, and may be seen 14 miles off. It
is in lat. 41° 44′ 34' N., long. 124° 11′ 22″ W., and is N. by W., 79 miles
from Cape Mendocino.
POINT ST. GEORGE.-This point lies 2 miles W. by N. from Crescent
City light. It is from 50 to 100 feet high, with table-land some distance
back. It is bounded by hundreds of rocks, some of which rise perpendicu-
larly 200 feet from the water. Three or four of the largest present a re-
markably white appearance, which serves to distinguish this point. The ex-
tensive reef in its vicinity may have led to confusion among the old dis-
coverers by their confounding it with Cape Orford. The present name was
given to it by Vancouver, in 1792.
DRAGON ROCKS.-This name is applied to the rocks and reef extending
W.N.W. from Point St. George for a distance of six miles. The locality has
never been surveyed in detail, but a wide passage exists inside of the reef,
and is invariably used by the mail and coasting steamers, when entering or
leaving Crescent City Bay. There are ten or twelve outlying rocks, and
many sunken ones, with the passage running between them and those close
to the shore. This passage is about a mile in width, has 10 fathoms in it,
and the general course through is nearly N.W. and S.E., but not straight.
Among the multitude of rocks on the land side of the passage, are three very
large and prominent ones, about 200 feet high. It has already been stated
that several of the largest rocky islets have a well marked white appearance,
occasioned in part by the deposits of sea birds. The name of Dragon Rocks
was given to them by Vancouver, but the general name now used is
Crescent City Rocks.
PELICAN BAY.-From Point St. George the coast runs straight for 12
miles N. W., thence W.N.W. for 9 miles, forming a deep indentation,
called by La Pérouse, in 1787, Pelican Bay, and by Vancouver, St. George's
Bay. For 8 miles from Point St. George the shore is low for some distance
back, and fronted by a sand beach to the mouth of a small stream called
Smith's River. The entrance to this river we looked for in vain from the
deck of the steamer, although scarcely 2 miles off shore, but we were able
to form a good estimate as to where it should open by the peculiarities of the
northern bank, which was a low perpendicular bluff. Lat. 41° 54' N., long.
124° 11' W.
Half-way between Crescent City and the mouth of Smith's River, there is
214
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
a small sheet of water called Lake Talawa. North of this small stream the
coast acquires an elevation of about 100 or 200 feet for a short distance in-
land, and is bounded by high mountains.
The 42° parallel is the boundary between the States of California and
Oregon, at 14 miles northward of Point St. George. It strikes the coast
near a noticeable high pyramidal mound, rising abruptly from the plateau,
which is destitute of timber.
( 215 )
CHAPTER V.
THE COAST OF OREGON, FROM CAPE BLANCO TO
ADMIRALTY INLET.
THE Oregon Territory forms an integral portion of the United States of
America, the sovereignty having been acknowledged by the treaty of July
15th, 1846, between that power and Great Britain, and is that country
described in the present chapter, lying between the parallels of 42° and 49°
North latitude, the former separating it from the State of California, de-
scribed in the preceding pages.
The actual right of possession of the Oregon Territory was the theme of
long and angry discussion, and notwithstanding the cession of the claim by
Britain to its present owners, it must ever be acknowledged that their right
by the usual laws of sovereignty was indefeasible.
The N.W. coast of America, in this part, was first made known to Europe
by Sir Francis Drake, in his voyage in 1578, before mentioned. He reached
the lat. of 48° N., and coasted southward to the harbour now bearing his
name. It was next seen by the Spaniards.
All
We shall not dwell here upon the much-disputed accounts of De Fuca's
voyage in 1592, which will be mentioned elsewhere, nor of Martin de Aguilla
in 1603, nor of Admiral Bartolomeo de Fuente, or de Fonte, in 1640.
these have been denied the merit of truth, but there certainly would appear
some reason for believing a portion of the first-named narrative. The next
or really authentic account of any voyage to this part of the coast is from the
Spanish authorities. Ensign Juan Perez sailed from San Blas in the year
1774, and after encountering storms, made the land on July 16th, in lat 54°,
the South point of which was named Cape Santa Margarita, the land being
what is now called Queen Charlotte's Island, and the cape, Cape North.
He then made Nootka Sound, which he called Port San Lorenzo.
The next, in March, 1775, was under Captain Bruno Heceta, under whom
was Perez. Don J. de Ayala has been frequently named as chief of the
216
OREGON.
expedition, but was at first in command of the second vessel, the Sonora.
They made Port Trinidad, North of Cape Mendocino, where they left a cross,
which Vancouver found in 1793. They went northward, but being separated
by a storm, Heceta returned, and saw the opening of the mouth of the
Columbia, which he called the Ensenada de Ascencion; it was also called
Heceta's Inlet in some subsequent Spanish charts. Such are the first Spanish
voyages.
In 1776, Capt. Cook left Plymouth on his last voyage, and after discover-
ing the Sandwich Islands, in January, 1778, he made the coast 200 miles
North of Cape Mendocino, proceeding northwards.
From some notices given respecting the fur to be procured on the coast
during Cook's voyage, some vessels fitted out for this region from China,
the first of which was under Captain James Hanna; but in 1787, Captain
Berkeley discovered an inlet in 48° 30'. In 1788 Capts. Duncan and Colnett
were on the coast; and Duncan, running down the coast from the North,
anchored on the South coast of a strait off a village called Claasit, or Claaset,
in 48° 30'.
In 1788 Capt. Meares entered this strait, and communicated his discovery
to Captain Gray, of the Columbia, in which vessel the latter discovered the
great river now known by the name. This fact is recorded by Vancouver,
to whose expedition, in 1792, we owe almost the whole of our present know-
ledge of the coasts. In 1839, the mouth of the Columbia was surveyed by
Captain Sir Edward Belcher. The American Exploring Expedition also
examined the Columbia River in 1841, and part of the Straits of Juan de
Fuca, afterwards more elaborately completed by Captain Kellett, in 1847.
But soon after the transfer of the region to the United States that govern-
ment instituted a survey of the coast, the preliminary examination being
commenced in 1849 by Lieut. W. A. Bartlett, and subsequently continued by
Lieuts. McArthur and Commander Jas. Alden, U.S.N. These surveys have
in many instances been entirely completed. One of the earliest results of
the hydrographical examination of the western coast of the United States
was the establishment of the system of admirable lighthouses which now
mark its prominent points.
The Hudson's Bay Company, during this period, having established
settlements, derived almost the sole benefit from its productions; but in 1846
it was determined that the right of sole possession should be divided. It
was against the claims of England; and the treaty before alluded to stipu-
lated that all South of 42° should belong exclusively to the United States,
the navigation of the Columbia River to be open to both parties, and in-
demnification granted to settlers of either nation on either side of the
boundary.*
*The origin of the name "Oregon" is involved in some obscurity. It is, perhaps, first
OREGON.
217
The Columbia River and its valley is by far the most interesting and im-
portant part of Oregon, not only on account of the variety of soil, produc-
tions, and climate, but also from its being the great and only line of com-
munication between the sea-coast and the interior. The river is 750 miles
long; that portion in the western section is 120 miles in length, and from 3
to 5 miles in width; it is navigable as far as the Cascades, during its lowest
stages, for vessels not drawing more than 12 feet water. The tides rise and
fall above Vancouver 80 miles from its mouth, but they cause no change of
current beyond Oak Point; during the freshets the Columbia rises at
Vancouver 19 feet above the low-water mark.
The valley of the Columbia, as high as the Cascades, is divided into high
and low prairies; the latter are not suitable for cultivation, on account of
being overflown by the annual freshets, but they are admirably adapted for
grazing-lands. The soil of the upper or higher prairie is light and gravelly;
it is well covered with pines, arbutus, oaks, ash, and maples; and the hills
that border it are generally volcanic.
That portion of the western section of Oregon North of the Columbia
which lies between it and Puget's Sound is watered by several streams,
some of which flow into the Columbia on the South, others into the Pacific
on the West, and others into Puget's Sound on the North. These all rise
in the spurs of the Cascade Range, and drain this part of the country. The
land between the Cowlitz and the Chicaylis or Chickeeles Riveris an ex-
tensive prairie, known as the Cammas Plains.
The country from the seaboard to the Cowlitz is covered with a dense
forest of spruce pine and hemlock. The soil is a brown or black vegetable
earth, with a substratum of clay. The patches of alluvial land bordering
the Chickeeles River are fertile, and of some extent, studded with white
oaks, and would yield good crops of wheat; they are excellent sites for
farms, having an abundance of fine water, and but a short distance from
water communication.
The country in the neighbourhood of Puget's Sound presents an inviting
aspect, and, with the exception of some bluffs, is undulating, and covered
found in some travels in the interior of North America, in 1766-68, by Jonathan Carver,
published in London in 1778. He does not state his authority for calling the river by the
name of Origan, or Oregon; and it has been supposed by some that it was an invention of
his own.
It has also been stated that it is from the Spaniards, from the "oregano," or
wild marjoram (origanum, Lat.) said to grow on its banks.
The native names appear to be very incapable of being rendered into European ortho-
graphy. Their pronunciation is so very imperfect, that it is almost impossible to arrive at
any satisfactory conclusion as to the real names, and each voyager has represented the
same word in very different forms, so that an absolute standard must not be expected.
Sir George Simpson gives some amusing instances of the imperfection of their powers of
specch.
218
OREGON.
with trees of the species spoken of above. The soil of this forest-land is a
thin brown stratum of sandy vegetable earth, the subsoil of clay and gravel;
the latter having the appearance of being water-worn. These are succeeded
by the tract of prairie lands in the vicinity of Nisqually, which are valuable
as pasture lands for flocks of sheep and dairy cows. These prairies have a
very extensive range in a S.E. direction, and connect with the valley of the
Cowlitz on the South towards the Cascade Mountains, intersected by strips
of forests. Within this district are numerous ponds or lakes, surrounded by
rich meadow land, furnishing luxuriant crops of nourishing herbage. No
part of Oregon is better adapted for dairy purposes than this; and wheat,
rye, barley, oats, &c., come to perfection.
The peninsula of Cape Flattery, North of the Chickeeles, between Puget's
Sound and the Pacific, is rough and mountainous, and covered with a dense
forest. The principal trees are hemlock, spruce, and arbor vitæ. The high
ridges which jut in all directions from Mount Olympus leave but little space
for tillage, except along the western side of Hood's Canal.
The Indian inhabitants, who are scattered in numerous tribes throughout
the territory, are, it is supposed, rapidly decreasing in numbers, from their
dissipated lives and their rude treatment of diseases. They acted in many
instances as the allies and hunters for the white men settled among them,
but on more than one occasion have proved the treachery of the wild man's
character.
On the coast between Cape Flattery and Cape Lookout, and up the
Columbia to the first rapids, the singular custom prevails among the Indians.
of compressing the skulls of the infants. Thus the heads of all acquire a
remarkable deformity, but which does not appear to affect their intellectual
capacity.
Fish is very abundant in these regions, especially salmon; and in the
subsequent pages some accounts are given of enormous quantities being
found in the fresher water at the heads of the extensive and singular inlets
which penetrate the coast to the northward. The salmon is of several
varieties, and in the spawning season they ascend the Columbia and other
rivers for 600 or 800 miles above the mouth. A singular fact occurs in this
migration: one variety ascends the Cowlitz, another the Columbia, another
the Williamette, &c., &c., that which is peculiar in one stream never being
found in the other. When they are taken in the upper parts of the rivers
they have their tails and fins nearly worn off with the effect of their long and
difficult ascent of these rapid streams, and are almost unfit for food.
The climate of western Oregon is mild, having neither the extremes of
heat during the summer, nor of cold during winter; this is probably owing
to the prevalence of the south-west winds, and the mists which they bring
with them from the ocean. The winters are short, lasting from December
to February, and may be termed open. Snow seldom falls, and when it
CHET-KO RIVER-ROGUE'S RIVER.
219
does, lasts but a few days. Frosts are, however, early, occurring in the
latter part of August, which is accounted for by the proximity of the snowy
peaks of the Cascade Range, a mountain or easterly wind invariably causing
a great fall in the temperature. These winds are not frequent; and during
the summer of 1841 they were noted but a few times. The wet season
lasts from November till March; but the rains are not heavy, though
frequent. The climate during winter is not unlike that of England; and
as to temperature, is equally mild with that of 10° lower latitude on our
eastern coast.
Chet-ko River. Five miles from the deepest part of Pelican Bay, and in
lat. 42° 1′ N., long. 124° 15′ W. (both approximate), empties a steam, which
is from 50 to 60 yards wide at its mouth, with banks about 100 feet high,
and bounded half a mile in shore with very high hills. It appears deep and
sluggish, and in August, 1853, was completely closed at its mouth by a heavy
gravel beach. The anchorage off it is open and exposed from West to
South, with several reefs in and around it. No survey or reconnaissance has
been made. We found Indian huts in great numbers upon both banks,
but most of the Indians were engaged higher up the stream in taking
salmon.
From Point St. George to an arched rock about 40 feet high, in lat. 42°
11', the course is N.W. by N. 27 miles. The coast between the Chet-ko and
the point within a mile of the arch is high, bold, compact, and bordered by
vast numbers of rocks, with very deep water close in shore. From this
the shore runs nearly N.W. by N. N. for 40 miles to Cape Orford, making
a long gentle curve of 4 miles to the eastward, and being in general high,
abrupt, and rocky.
Rogue's River.-Within the long stretch just referred to is found the en-
trance to Rogue's River, in lat. 42° 25′ N., and long. 124° 22′ W. (both ap-
proximate), having a long, low, sandy point on the South side, and a high
steep hill, with two large rocks off its base, on the North side. It comes from
the interior between high mountains, and it is next to impossible to travel
along its course. Just within the entrance, and on the North side, were
large Indian villages in 1853.* When passing it in moderate N.W. weather,
the sea was breaking heavily across the bar, and this is reported to be gene-
rally the case. It has not been examined or surveyed, and the depth of
water on the bar is variously reported from 10 to 18 feet; the former doubt-
less nearer the truth. Mc Arthur reports 10 feet on the bar, but that the
channel is too narrow for sailing vessels to turn in.
Rogue's River Reef.-The rocky islets composing this reef are not so large
as the Dragon's Rocks, and run more nearly parallel with the coast line.
* The name Rogue's River was given to it from the character of the natives. On the
maps it is called the Toutounis or Too-too-tutna or Klamet.
220
COAST OF OREGON.
The southern group of rocks lies W. N., about 4 miles from the North
head of the entrance to Rogue's River, and stretches northward 3 miles,
where a gap occurs between them, and another cluster lying a mile and a
half off shore. Off this inner group lie several dangerous sunken rocks,
which must be sharply watched from aloft, when the sea is not heavy enough
to break upon them. As seen from the southward, the inside rock of the
outer group shows a perpendicular face eastward, and sloping back to the
West. The channel through this reef is perhaps a mile wide, but more dan-
gerous than any other on the coast. No hydrographic survey has been made
of it, and it is never used by the coasting steamers.
Abreast of the northern part of this reef is a five mile stretch of low sand
beach, backed by high, rugged, wooded hills, when the shore changes to an
abrupt and precipitous face to Port Orford. Many rocks closely border the
shore, and 5 miles South of Port Orford a high, rocky islet lies nearly a mile.
off the base of the hill, about 1,000 feet high.
PORT ORFORD.-This is by far the best summer roadstead on the coast
between Los Reyes and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. From the extremity of
the S.W. point eastward to the main shore the distance is 2 miles, and from
this line the greatest bend of the shore northward is one mile. The sound-
ings within this space range from 16 fathoms close to Tichenor's Rock, form-
ing the S.W. point of the bay, to 3 fathoms within one-quarter of a mile of
the beach on the N.E. side, with 5 fathoms at the base of the rocky points on
the N.W. side towards Tichenor's Rock. One mile off the shores of the bay
the average depth is about 14 fathoms, regularly decreasing inshore.
The point forming the western part of the bay presents a very rugged,
precipitous outline, and attains an elevation of 350 feet. Its surface is
covered with excellent soil, and with a sparse growth of fir.
From this point
the shore becomes depressed to about 60 feet at the northern or middle part
of the shore of the bay, where the town is located. The hills behind are
covered with a thick growth of fir and cedar.
The anchorage is usually made with the eastern end of the town bearing
North, being just open to the East of a high rock on the beach, in 6 fathoms
water, hard bottom, having a sharp, high point bearing N.W. by W., one
quarter of a mile distant, the beach in front of the town distant a quarter of
a mile, and three rocks just in the 3-fathom line E. by N., distant half a
mile. Steamers anchor a little to the eastward of this position, and closer to
the town in 4 fathoms. Coasters from the South in summer beat up close
inshore, stretching inside of the outlying islets to avoid the heavy swell out-
side. Coming from the northward they keep just outside of a high rock one-
third of a mile off the western head, and round Tichenor's Rock within half
a mile. In winter, anchor far enongh out to be ready to put to sea when a
south-easter comes up. During a protracted gale in December, 1851, a ter-
rible sea rolled in that no vessel could have ridden out. The old steamer
PORT ORFORD.
221
Sea Gull was driven northward, and lost two weeks in regaining her position,
and the mail steamer Columbia held her own for many hours off the Orford
Reef.
The usual landing is between the rock called Battle Rock, North of the an-
chorage, and the point of rock close on its West side. A road is cut from
here up to the town, which consists of but a few houses. Sometimes a land-
ing is made on the rocky beach a quarter of a mile westward of Battle
Rock, in the bight, where a sloping grassy bluff comes to the water; but
this landing is over a rocky bottom. A road is cut up the slope to the site
of the military post of Port Orford, which is now abandoned.
From Battle Rock the shore eastward is skirted by sand beach for 12
mile to a rough, rocky point, called Coal Point. About midway in this
distance empties a small creek, whose banks are composed of a deposit of
auriferous sand and gravel, the same as found in front of the town abreast
of Battle Rock, and which has yielded as high as 30 to 40 dollars per diem
to each miner. Battle Rock was so named because the first adventurers
made a stand against the Indians on this rock in June, 1851. Coal Point
was so named from the reported existence of coal in this vicinity.
Several attempts have been made to open a road from this place to the
mines about 60 or 70 miles eastward, but thus far without success. Several
parties have gone through, but could find no direct available route for pack
animals. Upon the opening of such a road it would become a large depot
of supply for the interior. In the neighbourhood of Port Orford are found
immense quantities of the largest and finest white cedar on the coast, and
for some years a saw mill has been in operation, affording a small supply of
this lumber for the San Francisco market, unapproachable in quality by
any on the Atlantic coast. The high mountain about 12 miles East of Port
Orford is called Pilot Knob. This bay was called Ewing Harbour in 1850
by M'Arthur, but is now known by no other name than Port Orford from
its proximity to Cape Orford.
It is high water in Port Orford (corrected establishment) at 11h 24m;
mean rise and fall 5.1 feet; of spring tides 6 feet 10 inches; neaps 3 feet 8
inches. The top of the ridge West of the town is in lat. 42° 44′ 22″ N., long.
124° 28′ 47″ W.
From the western extremity of Port Orford Cape Orford or Blanco bears
N.W. N., distant 6 miles, the shore line between them curving eastward
about a mile immediately North of Port Orford; it is composed of a very
broad loose sand beach, backed by a long uniform sand ridge of 100 feet in
height, covered with grass, fern, sallal bushes, and a few firs; while behind
this the ground falls and forms lagoons and marshes. This ridge extends
nearly to the mouth of a stream called Elk River, 34 miles from Tichenor's
Rock. This narrow stream, fordable at its mouth at low tides, comes for
miles through broad marshes covered with fir and white cedar, and an almost
222
COAST OF OREGON.
impenetrable undergrowth. The South side at the mouth is low, sandy,
and flat; the North side, a slope rising from the marsh inshore, and termi-
nating on the beach in a perpendicular bluff, averaging 100 feet high,
covered with timber to its very edge for a couple of miles, when the timber
retreats some distance inland. The face of this bluff exhibits vast numbers
of fossil shells in the sandstone. At its base a sand beach exists which may
be travelled at low water.
CAPE ORFORD or BLANCO.-In making this cape from the northward
or southward, it presents a great similarity to Point Concepcion, appearing
first as an island, because the neck connecting it with the main is compara-
tively low, flat, and destitute of trees, with which the cape is heavily covered
to the edge of the cliff. It is perhaps over 200 feet high, but the trees upon
it make it appear at least 100 feet more. The sides are very steep, and worn
away by the action of the sea, showing a dull whitish appearance usually,
but bright when the sun is shining upon them.*
At the base are many
black rocks and ledges stretching out to form the inner part of Orford Reef.
In the bend south-east of the cape rises a high, large, single rock, about
100 yards from the beach. The approximate geographical position of the
cape is, lat. 42° 50′ N., long. 124° 30′ W., being thus the most western part
of the main land until we reach lat. 47° 50′.
ORFORD REEF.-About 4 miles off the coast, between Port and Cape
Orford lies a group of rocky islets and sunken rocks. There are seven large
high ones within an area of 1 square mile, with small ones that are just
awash, and others upon which the sea only breaks in very heavy weather.
3
4
The south-eastern rock is called the Fin Rock, and has a perpendicular
face to the S.W., with a sloping surface to the N.E. Near it are several
low black rocks. The Fin Rock lies W. 2 N. distant 4 miles from the
western point of Port Orford, and the general direction of the six others is
N.N.W. from Fin Rock. West from Port Orford, and distant 4 miles, is
a small black rock, and near it a smaller one, upon which the sea breaks
only occasionally. W. by N. N., distant 42 miles from Port Orford, lies
the largest of the seven islets, rising up with high and nearly perpendicular
sides. On the same course, and a mile and a quarter further out, is a small
rock, and halfway between them a rock awash. This is the northern limit
of the group.
Stretching S.S.W. for a mile and a third from Cape Orford are numerous
rocky islets and sunken rocks, with large fields of kelp; but ceasing at that
distance a passage is left 1 mile wide between them and the northern islets
of the other group. The course through the middle of the passage, clearing
* It was named Cape Blanco on the old Spanish maps, from the assertion of Antonio
Flores in 1603, but the name Cape Orford was given by Vancouver in 1792, in honour of
his much respected friend the noble Earl (George) of that title.
1
COQUILLE RIVER.
223
the rock called Klooqueh, off the western point of Port Orford, is N.W. by
W., with 10 fathoms rocky bottom on the shoalest part of that line.
This passage is in constant use by mail and coasting steamers, but the
hydrography of the reef has not yet been executed, and only a preliminary
examination of the position of the outer rocks. Although the general trend
of the southern group is N.N.W., it is very probable that they are a con-
tinuation of the reef making out from the cape.
""
One mile North of Cape Orford empties a small stream having a great
number of rocks off its mouth. In 1851 it was usually called Sikhs River,
the Chinook "jargon name for friend. On some maps we find a stream
near this locality called Sequalchin River. The village upon the Sikhs is
called Te-cheh-quut.
Ten miles North of Cape Orford La Pérouse places a cape called Toledo,
but no headland exists between Orford and the South head of the Coquille,
although a small stream called Flora's Creek empties upon the coast about
halfway between them.
General Features.-From Cape Mendocino the hills upon the seaboard
range from 2,000 to 3,000 feet high, running parallel with the coast at a
distance of from 3 to 5 miles, receding somewhat at the Eel River Valley
and Point St. George, and at other points coming abruptly to the ocean.
The whole face of the country is covered with dense forests, and offers
almost insuperable obstacles to the opening of roads intended to strike the
trail leading along the valleys of the Sacramento and Wallamut.
Northward of Cape Orford the appearance and nature of the coast assumes
a marked change. Long reaches of low white sand beach occur, with sand
dunes, broken by bold rocky headlands, and backed by high irregular ridges
of mountains. On the sea-face and southern sides of many of these promi-
nent points no timber grows, and they present a bright lively green of fern,
grass, and bushes. The general altitude of the mountains appears the same
as to the southward.
COQUILLE RIVER. From Cape Orford to the mouth of the Coquille, in
lat. 43° 7′, the coast runs exactly North for 17 miles, with a slight curve of
a mile and a half eastward, and a short distance North of Orford, consists of
a low sand beach, immediately behind which are long shallow lagoons,
receiving the water from the mountains, but having no visible outlet to the
sea. Along this shore the soundings range from 7 to 15 fathoms at a dis-
tance of a mile.
The South point of the entrance to this river is a high bluff headland,
whilst the North point is a long, low, narrow spit of sand, overlapping as it
were the southern head, so that the channel runs parallel with and close
under it (1851). A short distance off it lie several rocks, but not of
sufficient size to lessen the western swell which breaks continually across
the bar.
224
COAST OF OREGON.
It drains a very fertile region, densely covered with many varieties of
wood. Numerous Indian encampments were found along its banks from
the mouth, and quite extensive fish weirs were discovered and destroyed.
About 15 miles from its mouth there is a portage of 1½ mile to Koos River.
The hydrographic reconnaissance of this river in 1859 by the Coast Sur-
vey shows only 3 feet of water on the bar, and it is reported inaccessible
for vessels of ordinary draught. The North point is a long stretch of dreary
sand dunes, and has a single bold rock at its southern extremity. The
channel makes out straight from the southern head, and North of the rocks
(1859).
The approximate position of its entrance is, lat. 43° 7′ N., long. 124°
24′ W.
CAPE GREGORY or Arago.-Between the Coquille River and this head-
land we find another low sand beach for ten miles to the southern part of
Gregory, which rises up very precipitously, the hill attaining perhaps 2,000
feet elevation 2 miles back, runs in a straight line northward for 3 or 4 miles,
and bounded by many rocks, slopes to the northward to a sharp perpendicular
point, about 60 feet high, and peculiarly cut and worn by the action of the
sea. Thence it takes a sharp turn to the E.N.E. for 2 miles, to the entrance
of Koos Bay. The cape, as seen from the southward, shows a couple of
rocks a short distance from its western point. Along the low shore, sound-
ings in 10 fathoms are found 1 mile off. We have been informed that
vessels anchoring under the North face of the cape may ride out heavy
S.E. gales.
If so, it is very important, no other place between Sir Francis Drake's
and Neé-ah Bay, except, perhaps, under Destruction Island, affording that
protection. If a south-easter should haul to the S.W., and then N.W., as
they usually do, the chances of getting out would be very few.
It was named by Captain Cook, who placed it by bearings in lat. 43° 30′,
and is described by him as follows: "This point is rendered remarkable by
the land of it rising immediately from the sea to a tolerable height, and
that on each side of it is very low." Vancouver placed it in 43° 23′.
The LIGHTHOUSE on Cape Gregory (or Point Arago) was first illumi-
nated on November 1st, 1866. It stands on a small island at the western
extremity of the cape, the keeper's white house being near it, at the South
end of the island. The tower is of iron, painted white, and showing a fixed
white light, varied by a flash and eclipse, each of 3 seconds duration, every
2 minutes; elevated 75 feet, visible 15 miles off; lat. 43° 20′ 38″, long. 124°
22' 20" W.
It is sometimes called by the recent appellation of Arago, which has been
adopted on the coast survey charts. It is known by both on the western
coast.
KOOS BAY.-Nearly 2 miles E.N.E. of the northern extremity of Cape
KOOS BAY.
225
Gregory is the wide and well-marked entrance to Koos Bay. The South
point, named Koos Head, is high and bold, being the base of the hills
forming the cape, whilst the North point is low and sandy, with shifting
sand dunes that reach 100 feet in height. In 1861 a narrow channel cut
across the North point, forming a tolerably large island, which was washed
away before the close of the season. Such changes are constantly taking
place, and involve changes in the bar and channel. The points lie nearly
North and South of each other, and about three-quarters of a mile apart.
The bar (1861) lies N. 62° W. 1 mile from Koos Head; N. 35° E. 12 mile
from Cape Gregory; and its width between the 12-feet lines on the North
and South sides is only 150 yards, with a maximum depth of 13 feet.
Thence the channel, increasing in width, runs straight to the North tangent
of the head, with 10 fathoms of water at that point. In 1853 and 1854 a
depth of only 9 to 9 feet could be found on the bar. During the working
season of 1861 the bar moved to northward, thus indicating great changes in
this as in all other river bars on the coast. Vessels enter and leave on the
flood-tide, because the bar is smoother; with the ebb there is a heavy
break, unless the sea be remarkably smooth. The currents run very
strongly, as might be supposed from the extent of the bay and size of the
channel.
Traffic is drawn hither by the mining of lignite, which is carried to the
San Francisco market; it has been found unfit for steampship consumption,
but is used for small stationary engines and domestic purposes. The
geology of the country does not give promise of coal. A tug-boat is em-
ployed at the entrance for towing vessels over the bar. The saw-mills on
the bay turn out about 15,000 feet of lumber daily. Koos Head is in lat.
43° 21′ 4″ N., long. 124° 18′ W. High water at 11h 26m; springs rise 6.8
feet, neaps 3.7 feet.
The bay is very irregular in outline, and its general shape is like the
letter U, with the convexity to the North. One small branch stretches
southward behind Koos Head; it is called the South Slough, and has but 2
or 3 feet of water in it. North of the entrance the bay proper begins, and
has a good depth of water. Abreast of the North point the width is 600
yards, and the depth from 3 to 7 fathoms; thence northward it increases in
width to nearly a mile, and runs very straight on a N. by E. ¦ E. course.
The channel runs on the eastern side of this part, the western half being
filled with sand flats and shallows. A sunken rock called the Fearless Rock,
is on the eastern side of the channel, abreast of the upper part of the rocky
shore. The whole length of the bay is believed to be about 25 miles, the
head of it being a little further South than the entrance. Koos River
empties into the head of the bay, and will give passage to boats for 20 miles
from its mouth, where a small slough that empties into the Coquille River
North Pacific.
226
COAST OF OREGON.
is so near as to leave a portage of only a mile and a half between the two
waters, and about 15 miles from the mouth of the Coquille.
Excepting the peninsula, which forms the western shore of the bay North
of the entrance, the entire country is an immense forest of various kinds of
pines. No land for cultivation is found without clearing, and even on the
Koos River the bottom lands, which afford excellent soil, have to be cleared
of the thick growth of laurel, maple, and myrtle. The coal mines are beyond
the great bend, near the head of the bay, and on the western side.
The name Koos is that approaching nearest the Indian pronunciation of
the word. On some maps we find a small stream called Cahoos or Kowes,
emptying just South of Cape Gregory.*
3
UMPQUAH RIVER.-North of Koos Bay to the Umpquah River is
another straight low sand beach, with sand dunes, backed by a high ridge
of hills densely timbered. The shore runs nearly North, presenting a very
white appearance when the sun shines upon it, and having from 10 to 15
fathoms of water 1 mile off the beach. The southern point of the entrance
to the river is a marked spur of the mountains from the S.E., and is bor-
dered by sand dunes. The North side of the entrance is a long range of
white shifting sand hills, running with the coast for two miles, and suddenly
changing to high rocky hills, covered with wood. The river is the largest
stream entering the Pacific between the Sacramento and Columbia rivers.
It is 51 miles N. W. from Cape Orford, and 21 miles North of Cape
Gregory. The lower reach of the river is long and narrow, running nearly
North for 6 miles; bordered on the South side by a rocky wooded shore,
on the North, for 2 miles, by loose sand-hills, changing, after the first mile,
to sand sparsely covered with coarse grass, bushes, and fir, and in 4 miles to
steep, high, rocky banks, covered with large trees. An immense flat, mostly
bare at low water, stretches South from the North point to within 300 yards
of the South side of the entrance, through which narrow space runs the
channel, having (1853) a bar with only 13 feet upon it, and less than 100
yards wide. From the bar the point of bluff just inside the entrance bears
N.E. by E., and is distant 14 mile. About 1851 or 1852 two range marks
were placed on the South shore for running in by, and they are frequently
referred to as data by which to trace the changes of the bar, but the captain
who erected them has assured us that the bar was not on their range, but to
the southward of it.
Buoys for crossing the bar.-In January, 1858, it was announced that the
bar had been marked by buoys. Two third-class nun buoys, painted white,
with white and black perpendicular stripes, are placed in line with the light-
house, which bears from them E. by N. N. The inner buoy is just within
* The word Koos signifies in the Too-too-tan language a lake, lagoon, or landlocked
bay. Duflot de Mofras very amusingly translates it R. de Vaches (cows river).
HECETA BANK.
227
the bar, and in 3 fathoms at mean low water, and can be passed on either
hand, but only close to it. The outer buoy is just outside the bar, in 10
fathoms at the same stage of the tide, and can also be passed on either
hand. Keeping the two buoys in range with the lighthouse, 14 feet may be
carried over the bar at mean low water.
A lighthouse was erected on the South side of the entrance close to the
beach, which is of shifting sand. It first showed a fixed light in 1857, but
in 1866 it was extinguished. It was not stated whether the tower, &c., was
removed.
From the bar the lighthouse bears E. by N. 4 N., distant about a mile (1858).
After crossing the bar the channel, when approaching the lighthouse, runs
close to the South shore, and increases in depth from 3 fathoms to 13 off
the point of bluff. Abreast of the meeting of the sand beach and bluff on
the South side lies a rock, visible at extreme low tide, upon the 3-fathom
line. It is not laid down on any chart, nor has its position been accurately
determined. It has deep water around it. From the point of bluff vessels
steer across the river to strike the East side of the North point about one-
third of a mile from its extremity, then haul across E.N.E. to the other
shore, close along which the channel runs. This course takes them clear of
a flat and rocks in mid-river, and bearing E.N.E. from the South end of
the North point, and North five-eighths of a mile from the point of bluff on
the South side. The small indentation of the shore-line on the right, after
making the first stretch from the point of bluff, is called Winchester Bay,
having no water, and being but an extensive mud-flat. Three miles inside
the lighthouse the river continues half a mile wide, then expands to a mile,
and is filled with numerous extensive sand and mud flats. Five miles from
the lighthouse it bends sharply to the eastward.
This river is said to drain an extremely fertile region, abounding in
prairie land, well adapted to agriculture and grazing. Ross Cox mentions.
a pine tree discovered in the Umpquah valley measuring 216 feet to its
lowest branches, and being 57 feet in circumference. The Indian name for
the river below the rapids is Kah-la-wat-set, and to the upper part they
apply the name Umpt'quah.
From the Umpquah the coast runs in a remarkably straight line N. by
W. W. to the South point of the entrance to the Columbia River, in no
case varying more than 3 miles eastward of the line joining these two
places.
HECETA BANK.-N. W. by N., distant 66 miles from Cape Orford, is
the southern end of a bank extending parallel with the coast for 30 miles,
and about the same distance from it. The least depth yet discovered upon
it is 43 fathoms, and the nature of the bottom very variable, there being
blue mud, coarse blue sand, coral, pebbles, gravel, mud, and shells. Coast-
ing vessels have often reported passing over localities having a heavy swell
1
Q 2
228
COAST OF OREGON.
upon them, and one frequently so reported near the Umpquah led to the
examination which discovered this bank. When Heceta was upon this
coast, and in this vicinity, he said, "On Sunday I found great differences
(of depth) at 7 leagues. I got bottom at 80 fathoms, and nearer the coast I
sometimes found no bottom." Should a thorough examination of his disco-
veries here satisfactorily show that he did really cross this or any yet undis-
covered adjacent bank, it would be a tribute to his explorations on this coast
to apply his name to it.
CAPE PERPETUA.-After leaving the Umpquah 2 or 3 miles, a bold
rocky coast, with high steep hills covered with timber, runs straight for
about 8 miles, changing to low sandy beach with sand dunes, backed by a
high ridge of hills. This continues for 15 miles, when the hills stretch out
to the shore and crowd upon it for 13 miles, to end abruptly in steep bluffs
forming Cape Perpetua, which is 39 miles N. by W. W. from Umpquah
light, with an approximate geographical position of lat. 44° 19′, longitude
124 6'. The face of the cape is nearly 5 miles long, with very slight
projection from the straight trend of the shore. It is very high, and
has a regular though steep descent to the shore, bringing the trees to its
very edge.
From the Umpquah to Cape Perpetua, at a distance of a mile from the
shore, soundings are laid down from 8 to 14 fathoms.
This cape was named by Cook in 1778, and by bearings placed in latitude
44° 6'. Vancouver, in 1792, gave its position in latitude 44° 12′.
To the northward of Perpetua the coast range of hills is cut by numerous
valleys, through which flow many small streams to the ocean.
Yaquinnah River.-Nine miles North of Perpetua is the mouth of a
stream believed to be the Yaquinnah. It is said to expand into a bay, 3
miles long by 1 wide, running nearly East, and very much contracted at
the middle, where a small islet exists. The South head to the entrance is
formed by a spur of the hills from Perpetua. The North point has likewise
a bold head, with a low sand-spit stretching South half a mile. The en-
trance is in lat. 44° 27′ N. (approximate). The names of the streams hence
to the northward are very conflicting, and will continue so until a land ex-
ploration is made along the seaboard for determining their peculiarities and
the latitudes of their mouths.
Celetse River.-North of Perpetua the shore continues straight, high, and
bold, for 5 miles, when a cluster of rocks occur, and the bluff changes to
low sand beach, running nearly to the mouth of a small stream, about 5
miles South of Cape Foulweather, called the Alseya on the coast survey
reconnaissance of 1850, and the Celetse on the original sheets of 1853.
This name is the proper one. The North head, which is bold, has a rock
close under it. Thence the shore is low and sandy to Foulweather. The
CAPE FOULWEATHER.
229
country in the interior is very broken and mountainous, and covered with
wood.
CAPE FOULWEATHER.-From Perpetua to this cape the soundings
range from 7 to 12 fathoms about a mile from shore. The cape is in lat.
44° 45′ North, and longitude 124° 4' West, and forms a high bold head-
land, half a mile in width, jutting out about half a mile from the low beach,
and backed by high mountains. It is covered with wood, and has several
small rocks on its S.W. face, with one rocky islet a mile from it. To the
northward of the cape are three rocky islets standing a short distance from
the low beach, and readily distinguished by being projected against it.
This cape was named by Cook on the day he made the coast, March 6th,
1778, but the point of the headland is not that referred to by him. At noon
he was in latitude 44° 33', and the land extended from N.E. N. to S.E.
by S., about 8 leagues distant. In this situation he had 73 fathoms over a
muddy bottom, and 90 fathoms a league further off shore. The land he
describes of moderate height, diversified by hills and valleys, and principally
covered with wood. No striking object presented itself, except a high hill
with a flat summit, which bore East from him at noon. This may have
been what he subsequently called Cape Perpetua. At the northern extreme
the land formed a point, which he named Cape Foulweather, from the ex-
ceeding bad weather he met with soon after. The expression "northern
extreme" has led some geographers to place the cape as high as lat. 45°,
but he judged the Foulweather he named to be in 44° 55'. Being here
driven off the coast by continued bad weather, he had no opportunity to
verify his position, and did not sight the land again till in lat. 47° 5′, thus
passing by the entrance to the Columbia. Vancouver places it in lat. 44° 49′.
Both of these determinations evidently refer to the northern part of the
high land.
Nekas River. Soon after passing Foulweather the shore becomes ab-
rupt and moderately high, with an increased depth of water immediately off
it. Four miles South of the Nekas, which is in lat. 44° 56', it changes to
low sand dunes, stretching into a narrow point, forming the South point of
the stream, while the North point is a low bluff. The entrance is very
narrow and shoal, and inside the river is reported to spread out into a bay
of about a mile in extent, and to receive the waters of a stream draining a
valley coming from the eastward.
From the Nekas to Cape Lookout the distance is 24 miles, and course
N. by W. W., with a shore-line broken by several small streams, amongst
which are the Nechesne, in lat. 45° 2′, with rocks in the entrance; the Nes-
tuggah, in lat. 45° 6', called Yaquinnah in reconnaissance of 1850, and
having a large rock off its mouth; the Nawuggah in lat. 45° 14', and on the
South side of whose entrance is a single rocky islet, hereafter referred to.
230
COAST OF OREGON.
De Mofras has C. Lucuat in this latitude, and a small stream, River Kaouai,
South of it.
CAPE LOOKOUT.-The soundings from Foulweather to this cape show
from 13 to 31 fathoms of water at a distance of a mile from the shore, in-
creasing from 18 fathoms North of lat. 45° N.
This cape is situated in lat. 45° 20′, long. 124° 0'. It projects somewhat
sharply into the sea for half a mile, and, as seen from the South, the top is
tolerably flat and regular, and at the highest part we judge it to attain an
elevation of 3,000 feet. The face directly toward the ocean is perpendi-
cular, high, and towards the South destitute of trees. About 8 miles south-
ward of it is a large single rock off the Nawuggah, estimated to be 250 feet
high, and standing well out from the low sand beach behind it. No rocks
lie off this cape, but one appears very close inshore, about a mile to the
northward of it.
CAPE MEARES.-Two or three miles after leaving Cape Lookout the
land falls to a low sand beach, behind which is a long lagoon, called the
Nat-a-hats, stretching northwards, and having an opening under the South
head of the well-marked point to the northward, which is the termination of
a spur or ridge, running from the south-eastward, presenting an abrupt
front to the ocean for about 2 miles, and being part of the western boundary
of Tillamook Bay. In coming down this coast in the fall of 1857 we made
a few notes upon some objects, and find the following memorandum made
whilst near this point: "Three high rocks (one arch) off point S. of False
Tillamook; one more on the North side." Not being then aware of any
doubt as to the name of the cape, no other particulars were noted. Four
rocks were laid down off the S.W. face on the coast survey reconnaissance of
1850, and one on the North. Three large rocks and one small one are laid
down off the S.W. face in the original sheets of the reconnaissance of 1853,
the most distant being 1 mile from shore, with several small ones between
them and the shore, and two or three others off the N.W. face.
TILLAMOOK BAY.-On the coast survey reconnaissance of 1853 the
entrance to this bay is placed in latitude 45° 34', 4 miles North of Cape
Meares. The southern point is low, and the termination of a spur from
the crest of the cape, whilst the North head is high and bluff. The entrance
is very narrow, and reported to have very little water upon the bar; inside
it expands into a long wide bay, stretching to the S.S.E. behind Cape
Meares. No survey has yet been made of it, and some doubts are expressed
about the enlarging of the river to form a bay. Two miles northward of the
northern head stands a couple of large rocks; thence the coast runs nearly
straight to False Tillamook, receiving a considerable stream, called the
Nehalem, in lat. 45° 41'. Clarke, when about 5 miles South of Tillamook
Head, says that "the principal town of the Killamucks is situated 20 miles
lower (South) at the entrance to a creek called Nielee, expanding into a bay
CAPE FALCON-TILLAMOOK HEAD.
231
nich he named Killamucks Bay. Upon this bay were several Killamuck
towns. Killamuck River is at the head of the bay, 100 yards wide, and
very rapid; but having no perpendicular fall, is a great avenue for trade.
There are two small villages of Killamucks settled above its mouth, and the
whole trading portion of the tribe ascend it, till by a short portage they
carry their canoes to the Columbia valley, and descend the Multnomah to
Wappatoo Island. This information he obtained from Indians and traders.
On this short expedition he made all his distances from Cape Disappoint-
ment and Point Adams too great, and reducing the forementioned 20 miles
by the proper proportion, it would give us 13 miles as about the position of
the Nehalem. His name seems to agree with this, but the description
applies to what is generally known as Tillamook Bay.
The shore about the Nehalem is low and sandy, with sand dunes backed
by high wooded hills, and cut up by many valleys. It was here that Meares
stood in for an anchorage (July, 1788) until he found bottom in 10 fathoms,
but hauled out again, and named the place Quicksand Bay, and the adjoin-
ing headland North, Cape Grenville
CAPE FALCON, or False Tillamook.-The northern part of this head-
land lies in lat. 45° 47', long. 127° 58'. Upon passing close by it in 1857
we judged it to be not less than 3,000 feet high, with the sea face coming
precipitously to the ocean, and off it lie two prominent rocky islets. As seen
from the southward the top is irregular, while the hills inshore fall away.
Like some other points in this latitude, the southern face of the cape is
destitute of trees, but covered with a thick growth of grass, bushes, and
fern. Two miles South of it is a stretch of sand beach and sand dunes.
From Cape Lookout to this headland a depth of 20 fathoms may generally
be found a mile from shore; but, as upon the whole coast, a heavy regular
swell always rolls in from the West.
TILLAMOOK_HEAD.-This prominent Cape, in lat. 45° 58', is 12 miles
N.N.W. from Cape Falcon, and 19 miles S.E. by S. S. from Cape Disap-
pointment. The coast from Cape Falcon curves 2 miles eastward; is bold
and rugged, guarded by many high rocky islets and reefs, and in several
places bordered by a low sand beach at the base of the cliffs. Two miles
South of the head, Clarke (1805-6) locates a creek 80 yards wide at its
mouth, which he calls Ecola, or Whale Creek. From the South bar of the
Columbia River the summit of Tillamook appears flat for some distance
back, and has an estimated height of 2,500 feet. Off the face of the cape,
which is very steep, lie several rocky islets; one of them is high and rugged,
and stands out about a mile from the S.W. face. Around it the water is
believed to be deep, as we have seen a steamer come almost upon it in a
thick fog, but inside of it lie several high rocks. From the bar two rocks
can be distinctly seen, the inner being the larger, and its apparent distance
from the head about half the apparent height of the cape. Whether the
232
COAST OF OREGON.
smaller is the one off Cape Falcon, we did not determine. As seen from
the southward, the large rock has a perpendicular face to the westward,
and slopes to the East. It is the resort of thousands of seals.
This cape is a good land-mark for making the mouth of the Columbia.
River, no such high headland occurring on the coast northward of it for
over 70 miles, and before being up with it the moderately high land of Cape
Disappointment is seen, and made as two islands.
The face of the cape is much broken, and formed principally of yellow
clay, presenting a bright appearance in the sunlight. Clarke says that
1,200 feet above the ocean occurs a stratum of white earth, then (1805-6)
used by the Indians as paint; and that the hill-sides slip away in masses of
50 to 100 acres at a time.
Upon the top of the cape Clarke says he found good, sound, solid trees
growing to a height of 210 feet, and acquiring a diameter from 8 to 12 feet.
From Tillamook Head southward many miles was the country of the
Killamuck Indians, then estimated to number 1,000 people, and having 50
houses. The coast from Point Orford to Tillamook Head is well diversified
by high hills and valleys, presenting a country well watered by numerous
small streams emptying into the ocean. It is densely covered with various
woods, and for a few miles inland looks favourably from the deck of a vessel.
Some distance in the interior ranges of mountains occur, the general direc-
tion of which appears to be parallel with the coast line, which attained its
greatest elevation and compactness between Cape Falcon and Tillamook
Head, after which a sudden and marked change takes place, and a stretch of
low sandy coast commences, and runs for nearly 100 miles northward, only
broken by Cape Disappointment.
COLUMBIA RIVER.
This river, by far the most considerable of any that enter the sea on this
side of the Pacific, is the principal feature of the territory it waters. If its
capabilities were at all commensurate with its magnitude, it would really
become an important point in the commercial history of the Pacific. It has
some almost insuperable obstacles to its becoming of any great service to the
country it drains.
The entrance to the Columbia is impracticable for sailing vessels for two-
thirds of the year. It cannot be safely entered at night, and in the day only
at particular times of the tide and direction of the wind. Unlike all known
ports, it requires both the tide and wind to be contrary to ensure any degree
of safety.
Vessels frequently lie for several weeks in Baker's Bay, inside the
entrance, during the winter, for fine weather to get out, for which a fair
wind and smooth water are indispensable. The difficulties of ingress must
COLUMBIA RIVER.
233
also be greater, inasmuch as a vessel in the open ocean cannot watch her
opportunity so conveniently as when at anchor in Baker's Bay; and the
hazard would be still greater were it not that the openness of the coasts, and
the prevalent gales, lessen the hazard of a lee-shore.
"But these obstructions, in proportion as they lessen the value of the
river, enhanced at the same time the merit of the man who first surmounted
them—a merit which cannot be denied to the judgment, and perseverance,
and courage of Captain Gray, of Boston. Whether or not Captain Gray's
achievement is entitled to rank as a discovery, the question is one which a
bare sense of justice, without regard to political consequences, requires to
be decided by facts alone. First, in 1775, Heceta, a Spaniard, discovered
the opening between Cape Disappointment on the North, and Point Adams
on the South,—a discovery the more worthy of notice, inasmuch as such an
opening can hardly be observed excepting when approached from the west-
ward; and being induced partly by the appearance of the land, and partly
by native traditions as to a great river of the West, he filled the gap by a
guess with his Rio de San Roque. Secondly, in 1788, Meares, an English-
man, sailing under Portuguese colours, approached the opening in question
into 7 fathoms water, but pronounced the Rio de San Roque to be a fable,
being neither able to enter it nor discover any symptoms of its existence.
Thirdly, Gray, though after an effort of nine days he failed to effect an
entrance, was yet convinced of the existence of a great river by the colour
and current of the water. Fourthly, in April, 1792, Vancouver, while he
fell short of Gray's conviction, then unknown to him, correctly decided that
the river, if it existed, was a very intricate one, and not a safe navigable
harbour for vessels of the burden of his ship. Fifthly, in May, 1792, Gray,
returning expressly to complete his discovery of the previous year, entered
the river, finding the channel very narrow, and not navigable more than 15
miles upwards, even for his Columbia, of 220 tons. According to this summary
statement of incontrovertible facts, the inquiry resolves itself into three
points-the discovery of the opening by Heceta, the discovery of the river
by Gray on his first visit, and the discovery of a practicable entrance by the
same individual revisiting the spot for the avowed purpose of confirming and
maintaining his previous belief. Gray thus discovered one point in a country,
which, as a whole, other nations had discovered, so that the pretensions of
America had been already forestalled by Spain and England."-Sir George
Simpson.
The Columbia River possesses but few advantages as a port; the difficul-
ties and dangers of its entrance, which have been manifest to all who have
come hither since its first discovery, have not been exaggerated, and without
very
efficient means be at command for towing ships over the bar into the
quieter water within, it will be almost impossible for a ship to enter in
safety. One feature which renders it still more difficult for a sailing vessel
234
COAST OF OREGON.
to cross the bars is, that a good and commanding breeze within or without
the mouth often falls to a calm when the breakers are reached. The shifting
of the shoals forming the bars and entrances, which they do apparently very
considerably at short intervals, increases the difficulty, from the impossi-
bility of having any established marks for the guidance of the commander
that will be good for a lengthened period.
In addition to this, the cross-tides, and their great velocity, increase the
difficulties. The heavy swell of the Pacific, and the influence of an under
current, add their embarrassments, and all these become greater from the
distance of the leading marks of the channel, and their indistinctness when
the weather will permit entrance. It is necessary to use them, because the
compass bearings are of little or no use. The land near it is well marked,
and this is some little advantage.
The first complete survey that was made of the river was that by Sir Edw.
Belcher, in H.M.S. Sulphur, in 1839, which showed some remarkable
changes from the charts of 1792. The northern channel up to Cape Disap-
pointment was then the only known good entrance. The U.S. Exploring
Expedition, in 1841, also examined it, and found but one channel, but that
was little changed. The next advance in its hydrography was the discovery
of the South channel, in January or February, 1850, by Captain White,
who found not less than 4 fathoms on the bar. In 1851 the U.S. Coast
Survey officers under Lieut. W. P. M'Arthur, completed a preliminary sur-
vey of the outer entrance, since which period no complete examination has
been published; but in 1869 a survey was made by Mr. E. Cordell, U.S.
Coast Survey, which showed that the North channel had very much altered
and was unsafe, except for small vessels. To these authorities, and to the
directions drawn up by Mr. Geo. Davidson, combined with our former ob-
servations, we owe the following remarks:-
POINT ADAMS.-Two miles northward of Tillamook Head commences
a peculiar line of low sandy ridges, running parallel to the beach towards
Point Adams, and appearing like huge sand-waves covered with grass and
fern. Between some of them run small creeks, whilst the country behind is
low, swampy, and covered with wood, and an almost impenetrable under-
growth. About 3 miles North of the head, Clarke says a beautiful stream
empties, with a strong rapid current. It is 85 yards wide, and has 3 feet at
its shallowest crossing.
Point Adams is low and sandy, covered with bushes and trees to the line
of sand beach and low dunes; and although it is reported to have washed
away over half a mile since 1841, we find comparatively small changes since
the survey of Broughton in 1792.
No lighthouse exists here, but the necessity for one has been so repeatedly
urged that we cannot refrain from calling attention to a few facts bearing.
upon the question. Off this point S.W. by S. 31 miles lies (1852) the bar
CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT.
235
of the South channel, through which the far greater portion of the trade has
passed; and all vessels use this point as a standard point for their ranges.
During the early part of the evening dense fogs, formed over the waters of
Gray's and Shoalwater bays, are brought southward by the summer winds,
and roll over Cape Disappointment, which they completely shut in before
reaching across the river, so that a vessel might make a light on Point
Adams, when the other cape was invisible; but by seeing both lights a
vessel could hold any required position at night near either bar, and run in
and take a pilot upon the first opportunity; for it would be assuming too
great a risk to enter the river at night or without a pilot.
The beach around Point Adams, and to the southward some distance, is
usually called Clatsop Beach.*
Captain
On Point Adams some missionaries were established in 1841.
Wilkes visited these pioneers in the wilderness. In walking on the sand-
hills, and about Point Adams, he says that he had never in all his life seen
so many snakes as were on the beach, where they were apparently feeding
at low water.
Clatsop village, near the mission, consists of a few rough Indian lodges,
constructed of boards, or rather large hewn planks. On the Clatsop beach
he saw a great number of dead fish. Mr. Birnie informed him that they
were thrown up in great numbers during the autumn, and were supposed to
be killed by a kind of worm generated in their stomachs.
CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT.†-The North side of the Columbia River
forms part of Washington Territory; it was the southern boundary of the
"New Georgia," of Vancouver, 1792.
This cape is the only headland from Tillamook to latitude 47° 20′ that
breaks the low line of shore. It presents a geological formation not before
met with on the sea board, being composed of horizontal columnar basalt,
rising to an elevation of 287 ft., disposed in a succession of huge round hills,
broken on the sea front by short strips of sand beach, and covering an irre-
gular area of about 3 miles by one. Inland of their crests the trees com-
* Upon Clatsop Beach, many years ago, before the whites occupied the country, a
Chinese or Japanese junk, with many hands, and a cargo of beesewax, was cast ashore,
and went to pieces, but the crew were saved. In support of this Indian tradition, there
are occasionally, after great storms, pieces of this wax thrown ashore, coated with sand,
and bleached nearly white. Formerly a great deal was found, but now it is rarely met
with.
+ This cape was seen by De Heceta, in August, 1775, and again by Captain Mears, in
July, 1788, when he called it Cape Disappointment, by which name it is still known. In
1792, Gray, the real discoverer of the river, called it Cape Hancock afterward, but relin-
quished this term. It is still, however, applied to it in some works. The Indian name is
Kah-eesc.
236
COAST OF OREGON.
mence, and their tops reaching above the summits of the hills increase their
apparent height. The in-shore slope of the hills is more gentle, so that
paths can be easily carried to their tops. When the evening fogs, which are
very regular from the northern bays, do not cover the cape, we have some-
times experienced a dense fog rolling down the river about sunrise, envelop-
ing everything below the top of the cape.
As seen from the southward, when off Tillamook Head, Cape Disappoint-
ment is made as two round-topped islands. Approached from the N.W., it
rises in a similar manner; from the West and S.W. it appears projected
upon the mountains, but the slightest haziness in the atmosphere brings it
out in sharp relief. This cape being basaltic, and showing an almost iron
front to the river and sea, it is impossible that in the memory of many, Cape
Disappointment has been worn away some hundred feet by the sea, and
strong currents that run by it.
The LIGHTHOUSE is not upon the top of the cape, but upon a spur a
little to the West of the S.E. point, and about 95 ft. below the highest part.
The tower is whitewashed, placed 192 ft. above the level of the sea, and being
40 ft. in height, and projected against a dark green background, shows well
in daylight. It is in lat. 46° 16′ 32″ N., long. 124° 2′ 13″ W.
The light is a fixed white light, of the first order of Fresnel, was first ex-
hibited October 15, 1856, and shows from sunset to sunrise. It is elevated
230 ft. above the sea, and may be seen 22 miles off.
A fog-bell of 1,600 pounds has been placed on the bluff in advance of the
light-tower, and will be sounded during foggy or other thick weather, night
and day.
The Entrance to this the great river of the Pacific coast is 5 miles wide
between the nearest parts of Cape Disappointment and Point Adams, bearing
S. 581° W. from each other; but the passage is badly obstructed by shifting
shoals that lie 2 or 3 miles outside of the line joining the points. The nu-
merous surveys that have been made of this river prove so conclusively the
great changes which the channels through the shoals undergo, that the
subsequent remarks on the North and South channels must be used with
great caution. The best advice we can offer is, when up with the bar, wait
for a pilot. The mail and coasting steamers, in 1857, entered the South
channel parallel and close to the beach South of Point Adams; but with a
heavy swell from the westward they roll very much after rounding the point.
In heavy weather some of them preferred entering the N. channel, although
gives a detour of some miles.
In 1868 it was announced that the North channel had changed so much
that it was considered unsafe, and only to be used by vessels of very light
draught.
Sailing vessels cannot beat into the South channel against the summer
winds blowing from the N.W., but almost invariably come out through it.
COLUMBIA RIVER.
237
The heavily laden vessels of the Hudson's Bay Company have always used
the North channel.
During heavy weather, and especially in winter, the sea breaks with ter-
rific fury from N.W. of Cape Disappointment well to the southward of
Point Adams, and we remember the mail steamer trying for 60 hours to find
the smallest show of an opening to get in. Sailing vessels have laid off the
entrance six weeks, waiting for a fair opportunity to enter, and many lie in-
side for weeks trying to get out. The mail steamer meanwhile, exerting all
her power, would drive through the combers, having her deck swept fore and
aft by every sea. Few places present a scene of more wildness than this bar
during a S.E. gale, contrasting strongly with many times during the summer,
when not a breaker is seen to mark the outline of the shoalest spot. In bad
weather the pilot boats cannot venture out, but a steamer might; and the
mail steamers, to avoid delay, now regularly carry a bar pilot with
them.*
During the season of freshets, about June, the pilots say that the river
brings down such a vast body of water, that they can frequently take up for
use fresh water upon the bar.
When off the entrance in fine clear weather, the beautiful snowy peak of
Mount St. Helens shows over the lowest part of the land inside, and apparently
in the middle of the river valley. It is very regular in outline, and presents
a pyramidal appearance, having a base equal to either side. It is over 75
miles eastward from the entrance to the river, and attains an estimated ele-
vation of 13,500 ft. It is volcanic, and occasionally discharges volumes of
smoke.†
The South Channel, which passes between the outer Middle Sand and the
bank abutting on Point Adams, has nowhere less than 24 feet water at any
time of tide. It is now the only practicable entrance, and passes between
the south-western extension of the Middle Sand, and the bank against Point
Adams. The Middle Bank is extensive, and stretches for 4½ miles southward
of Cape Disappointment, its eastern edge being 24 miles off from the low
land of Point Adams, leaving a channel three-quarters of a mile wide be-
tween it and the bank against the latter point. Its general course is N.N.E.
and S.S.W., the depth varying from 3 to 9 fathoms.
Two buoys were laid down in 1868, to show its direction.
The outer, or
No. 1 buoy, Fairway, a mammoth buoy of the first class, striped vertically
* An evidence of the danger of the entrance was afforded by the wreck of the barque
Oriole, which sunk in the endeavour to enter, on September 19th, 1853. The vessel and
cargo were totally lost, but the crew saved. She had on board the materials for the light-
house, since erected on Cape Disappointment.
+ On November 23rd, 1842, during an eruption, the ashes fell from it over the Dalles of
the Columbia like a fall of snow. St. Helen's and Rainier were both in action.
238
COAST OF OREGON.
black and white, lies in 12 fathoms water, with Cape Disappointment light-
house bearing N. by W. W., and Point Adams N.E. distant 4 miles. No.
2 buoy, also a first class mammoth buoy, red, bears North 24 miles from the
outer buoy No. 1, in 5½ fathoms water, with Cape Disappointment Light-
house N.N.W. & W., Point Adams E. N., and the West end of Sand
Island N. by E.
3
The following directions were given in 1851 by Lieutenant McArthur, and
are in some degree applicable to the present state of the entrance; but they
were drawn up before the light on Cape Disappointment, or the buoys before
named, were established.
To enter by the South Channel, and up to Astoria, bring Point Adams in
range with Flat or Table Hill, which will be seen a little to the northward
of Pillar Hill Tree (remarkable as appearing like a tower on a high hill),
and keep on this range (or Point Adams and Pillar Hill Tree will answer for
light draughts), until the bar is crossed and the beacon on Sand Island bears
N. 40° E., true (N.E. by E. E. by compass). The vessel will then be in
the South Channel in the best water.
Steer for the beacon, taking care not to sag to the eastward, but rather
keep close to the breakers on the Sand Island shore; pass close to Sand
Island, and fall into the range of the beacon with Cape Bluff. Keep on with
this range astern in the Clatsop Channel until the custom-house is on with
Astor Point, when haul to the East on that range, running on it until nearly
up with Young's Point, which give a berth, and, passing Astor Point, run
by the lead to the anchorage at Astoria.
Beating in. Should the wind be well to the northward, and therefore scant
for passing Clatsop Spit, tack the ship before the beacon is in range with
Hall's Houses, and run over close to the Middle Sands, and tack again.
When up with the point of Clatsop Spit, Point Adams is in range with
Ewing Peak (the high oval peak S.E. by E.)
The South Channel is a safe beating channel either in or out.
Sand Island, above alluded to, is a dry spot on the eastern extension of
the Middle Bank. This bank is formed by the trees and timber which have
floated down the river, and which become lodged here, forming a nucleus,
around which the debris brought down by the stream increases. The island
is about one-third of a mile long E.N.E. and W.N.W. by 250 yards in width.
A large beacon on it, distinguishable outside the bar, and ranging with some
houses, called Hall's Houses, on the eastern part of Baker's Bay, is (or was)
the mark for clearing the West point of Clatsop Spit off Point Adams.
The Clatsop Channel, which passes in an easterly direction around Point
Adams and the Clatsop Beach, is about half a mile wide between Clatsop
Spit, which stretches off for 1 mile beyond Point Adams, having at its
outer edge not more than 7 feet water. The channel is from 6 to 14 fa-
thoms deep at the bend. Having rounded the inner red buoy off Clatsop
ASTORIA.
239
Spit, bear off to north-eastward to the lower or Sand Island anchorage in 7½
fathoms, with the Sand Island beacon bearing West, about a mile distant.
In leaving the river by the South entrance from the anchorage, keep Pillar
Hill Tree shut in to the northward of Point Ellice (on the North side of the
river), until Point Adams and Ewing Peak are in line, when keep off, gra-
dually running down the channel near the line of breakers of the Middle
Sand, until Point Adams comes on with Flat Hill North of the Pillar Hill
Tree bearing about N.E. E., when bear out over the bar marked by the
Fairway striped buoy.
The Clatsop Channel further up is bounded on the North side by the
Middle Ground off Young's Bay. The West end of this Middle Ground is
marked by a black iron buoy, lying in 5 fathoms, with Sand Island bearing
W.N.W., and Point Adams S.W. S., one mile distant.
The southern side of this bank is marked by two more black iron buoys,
and by a black spar buoy, marking the North side of the channel abreast As-
toria. In beating up or down this part of the channel, bring the beacon on
Sand Island and the Broom Tree on Cape Disappointment in one, and tack
on the North side when in 7 fathoms, and on the South side in 6 fathoms.
The tide sets fairly through the channel from Astoria to Sand Island.
At about 4 miles East by South of the land of Point Adams is Point
George (or Young), forming the East limit of Young's Bay. It is the first
point made after passing eastward of Clatsop Beach; immediately behind it
the land is high and densely wooded. The entrance of Young's River, so
named by Vancouver after Sir George Young, is about 1 miles E.S.E. of
the point. From its banks a low meadow, interspersed with scattered trees
and shrubs, extends to the more elevated land. From a sort of bar
across its entrance it is not easily navigable, though the depth is above 2
fathoms.
3
Astor Point lies E. & N. from Point Adams. It is low at the river bank;
the southern channel passes close to it. The United States Coast Survey
Station, about one quarter of a mile westward of the bay, is in lat. 46° 11′
27.6" N., long. 123° 49′ 32″ W.
ASTORIA, which lies to the eastward of Point George, on the southern
shore of the river, has been much celebrated; but its fame depends mainly
upon its historian, that delightful writer, Washington Irving, who has told
all the world of its progress and fortunes. It has sunk from the scene of
revelry and hospitality to a neglected collection of hovels. Though the
site is still known by its original appellation, yet that was superseded for
Fort George, when it was taken possession of by the British.*
* In 1809 Mr. John Jacob Astor, a German, who had emigrated from his native country
in 1783, engaged in the fur trade, and in that year obtained a charter from the New York
legislature for organising a Pacific Fur Company, all the capital of which belonged to him-
240
COAST OF OREGON.
It now consists of two villages, Upper and Lower Astoria, the original
station being the lower one. It has less than fifty houses, and a saw mill.
At Upper Astoria, three-quarters of a mile to the eastward, is the United
States custom-house, and a landing-pier. There is a large saw mill here,
and a government military road leads to Salem, &c., on the Willamette.
Astoria is very beautifully situated. It is 11 miles from Cape Disappoint-
ment in a direct line. From it there is a fine view of that high promontory
and the ocean bounding it on the West; the Chinook Hills and Point Ellice,
with its rugged peak, on the North; Tongue Point and Katalamet Range
on the East; and a high background, bristling with lofty pines, to the S.
The ground rises from the river gradually to the top of a ridge, 500 feet in
elevation.
The peninsula upon which Astoria stands forms a bay with Young's River,
where the intrepid travellers, Lewis and Clark, wintered. The position of
their huts (long since gone to decay) is still pointed out.
Eastward of Astoria is a remarkable projection from the southern shore,
called Tongue Point, forming a peninsula; and to the North of this point is
a channel, which has been designated the Tongue Point Channel. This
leads over to the northern shore, and then turns to the eastward on the
northern side.
Tongue Point is considered to be the best position for a fortification to de-
fend the channel up the river. It is a high bluff of trap rock, covered with
trees of large dimensions. There is a small portage on Tongue Point,
which canoes often use in bad weather, to avoid accidents that might occur
in the rough seas that make in the channel that passes round it.
The space, whose shores are thus imperfectly described, is from 3 to 7
iniles wide, and very intricate to navigate, on account of the shoals which
nearly occupy its whole extent. These shift very materially, and that,
too, in very short periods of time, so that no established directions can
here be given.
The North Channel, as before stated, is now not available for large
vessels, but the following directions were issued by the United States Coast
Survey in 1851. They may be useful, but it must be premised that they
were drawn up before the light was established, and the changeable nature
of the banks has been alluded to before.
To enter by the North Channel, bring Point Adams in range with Coxcomb
Hill, and stand in until the beacon on Sand Island is in range with the
second or inner peak of Point Ellice, when stand on towards Sand Island,
self. His plan was to establish posts on the coast of the Pacific, on the Columbia, &c., &c.
For the execution of this project, two expeditions were sent out, one by sea and one by
land. In September, 1810, the ship Tonquin left New York, and in March, 1811, founded
the post of Astoria.
BAKER'S BAY.
241
When Cape Bluff and Lead-
cape (quickly) on this range,
On approaching Peacock Spit,
passing the South end of the North Breaker.
ing-in Cliff come in range, haul up for the
which crosses Peacock Spit in 3½ fathoms.
drop a little to the eastward, and take the range of Cape Bluff and Snag
or Green Point, which gives the best water between Peacock and Sulphur
Spits, and leads all clear up to the bluff. Light draught vessels may keep
on range of Cape Bluff and Leading-in Cliff till nearly up to Cape Bluff.
Give the bluff a small berth, and keep on towards Baker's Bay until the
second islet in the cove can be seen, when the vessel will be all clear of
Sulphur Spit. This range clears the North side of the Middle Sands.
Having passed Cape Bluff, anchor in 43 to 6 fathoms.
Ranges cannot be given for the channel from Baker's Bay to Sand
Island, owing to the influence the current exerts at different stages of the
tide. The cross tides in the North Channel, and the baffling wind near
Cape Bluff, make this channel very difficult for sailing vessels.
The prevailing wind is N.W. by W., and in the narrowest part of the
channel vessels must generally beat in a cross tide.
It was
BAKER'S BAY is to the eastward of Cape Disappointment.
named by Broughton. There is good anchorage in it under the cape. The
bay runs 2½ miles northward of the cape, and into its head some small
streams run. Two or three houses and a saw mill a mile North of the cape
are all that remains of the settlement designated as "Pacific City."
Chinook Point, the eastern limit of Baker's Bay, is N. by E. 22 miles from
Point Adams. It is a low strip of land at the base of high wooded hills, one
of which, called Scarborough Hill, is remarkable for being bare of trees.
This eastern point is not good for anchoring, as a heavy sea sometimes sets
in on it over the bar.
There are many fishing and Indian huts on Chinook Beach, occupied by
salmon fishers. The fish commence running up about the end of May, and
are remarkably plentiful by the end of June.
Point Ellis, or Ellice, is 23 miles nearly East, true, from Chinook Point.
Behind it rise two peaked hills, one of which is (or was) used as a mark,
with Point Adams as a leading mark for the southern bar.
The COLUMBIA RIVER above this may be briefly described. From
Cape Disappointment to the mouth of the Cowlitz River the course and dis-
tance are 46 miles in a straight line; along the course of the river it is 52
miles. The Cowlitz runs N.N.W. for 24 miles; thence N.E. to its head
quarters in the cascades. It is navigated by canoes about 28 miles to the
Cowlitz landing. At the Cowlitz landing, travellers take mules or horses
through to Puget's Sound a trip of 52 miles.
From the Cowlitz the next course of the Columbia is S. 32° E. for 29
miles to the mouth of the Willamette River. The Willamette continues the
same general course of the Columbia for 16 miles to the falls, where is
North Pacific.
R
242
WASHINGTON TERRITORY.
situated the town of "Oregon City," destined to become a place of im-
portance, on account of the extensive water-power, the river falling there
perpendicularly 38 or 40 feet. Six miles lower down on the Willamette is
the rapidly-improving town of Portland, situated at the head of ship naviga-
tion, with a population of nearly 5,000. The valley of the Willamette is
well settled, and contains several thriving towns.
1
The snow peaks of the Volcanic Mount St. Helen's and Mount Hood lie
exactly in line with the Cascades, the former N.W. & N., 35 miles distant;
the latter S.E. S., 28 miles distant. Mount Hood is an extinct volcano,
covered with cellular lava, and, according to Dana, is between 15,000 and
16,000 feet high. According to other authorities, it is 18,316 feet.
4
On the lower part of the Columbia and Willamette many saw-mills have
been erected since the gold discovery in California, and a large trade was
carried on in lumber. Between San Francisco and Portland a very large
and increasing general trade exists.
WASHINGTON TERRITORY.
The Columbia River divides Oregon from the Washington Territory,
which extends between the parallels of 46° and 49° eastward to the Rocky
Mountains.
یک
SHOALWATER BAY.-The bold cliffs of Cape Disappointment, after
extending about 3 miles northward, change suddenly to a low, broad, sandy
beach, running N. by W. W. 18 miles, in nearly a straight line to the
southern point of the entrance to Shoalwater Bay. A mile and a quarter
behind this beach lies the southern arm of the bay. Its waters reach within
a mile or two of the North side of the cape, and the portage from thence to
the Wappalooche emptying into Baker's Bay, is said to be about a mile
long, and always used by the Indians and settlers. The peninsula thus
formed is covered with trees and a dense undergrowth of bushes. Within
half a mile of its extremity it becomes very low and sandy, and has a cover-
ing of coarse grass, but no trees. This point was called Low Point by Meares
in July, 1788. On the recent coast survey charts it is named Leadbetter Point.
The Indian designation is Chik-lis-ilk.
CAPE SHOALWATER, or Toke Point.-From Leadbetter Point the North
cape bears N.W. by N. § N., 5 miles distant. Half a mile of the cape is low,
sandy, and destitute of trees, but some tolerably high land, covered with wood,
rises immediately behind it, being the only elevated ground between Cape
Disappointment and Point Grenville that approaches the shore line. The
isolated position of Cape Disappointment and the seaward face of its bold
cliffs without trees form a peculiar feature. This with Scarborough Hill,
partly bare, lying 5 or 6 miles East of it, the high mountains inland, and in
clear weather the beautiful snow-peak of Mount St. Helen's, have no coun-
terparts at Cape Shoalwater, and should remove all doubt in regard to the
supposed general resemblance between them.
SHOALWATER BAY.
243
The LIGHTHOUSE at the North point of the entrance to Shoalwater
Bay, sometimes called Toke Point, is a structure consisting of a keeper's
dwelling, with a tower rising through it. Its height is 41 feet above the
ground, and about 87 feet above the sea. It is about a mile from the ex-
tremity of the cape. The illuminating apparatus is of the fourth order of
Fresnel, and shows a fixed white light, varied by flashes every 1 minute. It
is visible 16 miles off, and is in lat. 46° 44' 11" N., long. 124° 2′ 24″ W.
The bay was surveyed in 1852 and 1855 by the U.S. survey party under
Lieut. Jas. Alden, and it then had two entrances, separated by a middle
ground, on which was an island, in a similar way to the entrance of the
Columbia River. But in 1868 this arrangement was changed, the South
channel had much filled up, and was said to be of no use, while the North
channel had increased in depth to 5 fathoms, and was much wider and
deeper, besides being broad and straight. The island had disappeared, and
vessels sailed over its position.
As the bay is much frequented for oysters, transported to San Francisco,
&c., it is of some importance, and is considered to be the best harbour on
the coast North of San Francisco, being much more easy of access than the
Columbia River.
The directions which follow are those issued by Lieut. Alden, but they
must be taken with the qualifications above alluded to, and with all neces-
sary caution if it is imperative that a vessel should enter without a pilot.
Four miles off the entrance to Shoalwater Bay a depth of 10 fathoms is
found, and when well off shore a high double-peaked mountain shows to
the eastward, well inland. The bar at the South channel has 4 fathoms of
water upon it, in 1855 was a mile wide, and was 2 miles off the beach
South of Leadbetter Point, with the northernmost trees bearing N.E. by E.
Running in on this line, a vessel shoals her water from 10 fathoms 3 miles
off shore, to 4 fathoms 2 miles off; then gradually deepens it to 5 fathoms,
when she should haul close up under the point of breakers northward of
her, and about half a mile distant; run along in from 6 to 7 fathoms, until
abreast of the low grassy point, when the course of the channel will be N.
by W. W. for 1½ mile; with from 8 to 10 fathoms hard bottom, its outline
being well marked by the breakers outside. From thence a course N.E. by
N. for 2 miles will lead to 18 fathoms, and over a mile inside the line join-
ing Leadbetter Point and Cape Shoalwater, the western trees on Leadbetter
Point bearing S. E., 32 miles distant. If the tide is low, sand bars and
flats will show on both hands, one directly ahead; the broad deep channel
to the S.E. distinctly marked by bare patches on either side, and a narrow
deep channel to the N.W. running into the North channel. From the last
position the western trees on Leadbetter Point bear South, distant 4 miles.
The current runs very strong through this channel. In summer, with a
north-wester blowing, it is a dead beat after passing the bar, and in some
B 2
244
WASHINGTON TERRITORY.
places the channel is less than half a mile wide between the 3-fathom lines.
Coasters do not enter it except with a southerly wind, and always pick out
the channel from aloft. In summer they have a leading wind out, and start
on the first of the ebb.
The bar at the North channel has about 34 fathoms upon it, and bears
S.W. by S. & S., 3 miles from the southern extremity of Cape Shoalwater,
or Toke Point. It is about a mile in extent within the 3-fathom line. In
making the bay from the southward in summer, work to the northward of
Cape Shoalwater, then run in and follow the shore outside of the breakers
in 6 or 7 fathoms, gradually approaching them, and decreasing the depth
to 42 and 4 fathoms, when the southern side of the elevated ground of the
cape bears N.E. by N. & N. Then head up as near that course as possible,
crossing the bar in 3 fathoms, and continuing in that depth for at least a
mile and a quarter, taking care not to decrease it on either hand. Keep
under the breakers on the North side in from 5 to 7 fathoms, hard bottom,
and increase the depth to 12 well inside the point, when its southern ex-
tremity should bear N.W. W., distant 1 mile. If it is low water, sand-
banks will show in different directions, and the channels will be tolerably
well marked.
The present invariable practice of vessels entering is to steer out the
channel from the mast-head. In calm weather the channels must be known,
or a pilot employed, if one is to be found.
The middle sands lie between the two channels. The southern tail is
S.W. 1 mile from Leadbetter Point, runs N.W. by N. 3 N. for 24 miles,
then N.N.E. 24 miles, and E.N.E. 1½ mile, with an average width of 1
mile. One mile outside of it soundings are found in 7 fathoms. This bay,
as its name implies, is so full of shoals that at low tides about one-half of
its area is laid bare. Good but narrow channels are found throughout its
extent, but no direction can be given for running them. Without a know-
ledge of them, or without a pilot, follow them only at low water. The cur-
rents then run with great velocity, and it is very difficult and frequently
impossible to keep a course against them. The arm stretching southward
toward Baker's Bay is 15 miles long from Leadbetter Point, with an
average width of not less than 3 miles, whilst the upper portion stretches
to the N.E. for 9 miles to the North of the Whil-a-pah river, reckoning
from the middle of the line joining Cape Shoalwater and Leadbetter
Point.
The principal stream emptying into the bay is the Whil-a-pah, at its
N.E. part. At about 9 miles from Cape Shoalwater it is less than a quarter
of a mile wide, with low swampy banks, and steep bluffs on each side about
a mile and a half apart.
The mouth of the Palux or Copalux River lies 5 miles N.E. E. from
Leadbetter Point. It is half a mile wide at its mouth, and contracts very
SHOALWATER BAY.
245
much in 2 miles. The Násal enters about 11 miles South from the Palux,
and abreast of the middle of Long Island. It has over 20 feet water at its
mouth, with bluff banks for some distance, until it begins to expand, when
it is bordered by flats.
Several streams open from the North side of the bay. One of these, the
Necomanche, near the Whil-a-pah, has 6 feet in the main channel, and shows
1 mile wide at high tide.
There are three islands in the bay. Pine Island, about 1 mile N.W. by
N. off the mouth of the Palux, is a small sand islet of only 4 or 5 acres in
extent, and occupied by oystermen. It is near the channel and oyster beds,
which stretch for a couple of miles to the N.N.E. of it. The Indian name
of this island is Nass-too. The North end of Long Island is 8 miles from
Leadbetter Point. This island runs irregularly about S.E. for 6 miles, and
has an average width of 1 mile. It is covered with a dense forest of fir
and undergrowth. One mile S.S.E. of Long Island is a very small islet
called Round Island, of only a few acres in extent, covered with wood and
bushes. The shores of the bay, except on the peninsula, are mostly com-
posed of low perpendicular cliffs of a sandy clay, in which are strata of
recent fossil shells and the remains of trees.
N.E. & N., distant 6 miles from Leadbetter Point, is a sharp narrow cliff,
60 feet high, making out into the bay, which is wearing it away, and has
exposed many large basaltic boulders. No other place on the bay presents
this geological feature.*
The peninsula is a long flat marshy and sandy plain, elevated but a few
feet above the level of the sea, and covered, like the entire surface of this
country, with a dense growth of gigantic forest trees, principally spruce,
fir, and cedar, with a few specimens of maple, ash, and black alder. The
spruce frequently attains a diameter of 8 feet. The Indian name of the
peninsula is Tee-choots.
It is asserted by settlers here that boats, canoes, &c., which have broken
adrift and gone out of the bay, have in every instance been found on
the beach North of the entrance, and generally between it and Gray's
Harbour.
From Cape Shoalwater to Point Hanson, the southern side of the entrance
to Gray's Harbour, the distance is 13 miles, and the hard ocean sand-
* The shoals are covered with shell-fish, amongst which the oyster is most abundant,
and the principal article of export. They are small, and have a coppery taste. Codfish
and halibut abound; sturgeon, said to be of good quality, are plentiful; and salmon, of
several varieties and excellent flavour, exist in infinite numbers. In spring, vast shoals of
small herring enter the bay. In winter, wild fowl are innumerable, but these have been
made shy by the bad shooting of the Indians. Black and white swan, geese, mallards,
canvas-backs, &c., always reward the experienced sportsman.
246
WASHINGTON TERRITORY.
beach furnishes an excellent road that can be travelled at half tide by
waggons.
GRAY'S HARBOUR.-The entrance to the bay is formed by Point
Hanson on the South, and the southern point of Eld Island on the North.
The northern end of this island is connected with the outer part of Point
Brown at low water, but at high tide the beaches are one-quarter of a mile
apart. The South end of the island lies N. 59° W., 1½ mile from Point
Hanson; its length is 12 mile, and direction N. 50° W., with a breadth of
two to four hundred yards. Half way between Point Hanson and the island
lies the N.E. end of a shoal or middle ground, bare at low water, and
stretching S. 15° W. for 12 mile, with an average breadth of three-eighths
of a mile. Between the N.E. end of this shoal and the South end of Eld
Island passes the channel, with a width of less than five-eighths of a mile,
and a depth of 16 fathoms. The channels were buoyed in 1867.
The peninsula terminated by Point Hanson is about three-quarters of a
mile in breadth, and 3 miles long, and covered with fir to within half a
mile of the point, which is a low sand-spit embracing a small marsh. The
general direction of the peninsula is N.W., and inside of it lies South Bay,
with a width of half a mile, affording the only safe anchorage near the
entrance. More than half of this bay is occupied by mud flats. To secure
the best position here, bring the northernmost trees on Pt. Hanson to bear
S. 71° W., distant three-quarters of a mile, and anchor in the channel in 34
fathoms. This position places the vessel out of the influence of the South
channel running to the Chehalis.
The anchorage under Point Brown is not only uncomfortable but unsafe
to a vessel without heavy ground tackle. At this point there is no protec-
tion against the full sweep of the heavy summer winds, which, blowing at
times counter to the strong currents in the bay, cause a very disagreeable
short sea.
Another circumstance tends to render this anchorage unsafe.
Between Point Hanson and Eld Island lies the middle shoal, which, being
bare at low water, confines the waters to a narrow regular channel; but
when the tide rises sufficiently to cover this shoal the conflicting currents
cause a heavy overfall, especially on the large tides, strong enough to tear a
vessel from her anchors. The peninsula terminated by Point Brown is
about a mile in breadth and 4 miles long; its general direction is S.E.
by S. The bay shore is covered with fir. The outer shore is the commence-
ment of a sand waste, stretching towards the Copalis River. Between the
timber and this waste is a large pond or lagoon, and outside that the sand
is covered with coarse beach grass, and stunted lupine bushes, and cut up
with the tracks of bears, cougars, wolves, elk, &c. From the North end of
Eld Island a body of water stretches into the sand waste parallel and near
the ocean beach for about a mile. Close under the bay shore of this penin-
GRAY'S HARBOUR-CHEHALIS RIVER.
247
sula runs a narrow crooked channel, which Whidbey surveyed for 2 miles,
and in which he gives 4 fathoms.
From Point Hanson the mouth of the Chehalis River bears N. 52° E.,
distant 12 miles, and this course is the general direction of the S.E. side of
the bay, except the indentation forming South Bay. The first bluff inside
the point is named Stearns, bearing N. 57° E., and distant 5 miles. Around
the south-west side of this bluff comes John's River. Within a mile and a
half of the mouth of the Chehalis the Neuskah'l enters, coming from the
south-east.
From Point Brown, Point New lies N. 39° E., distant 43 miles, and hav-
ing off it two rocks, now called Ned's Rocks. Brackenridge Bluff commences
about three-quarters of a mile East of Point New, and extends three miles.
eastward to the low land bordering the Hoquiamts River. From Point New
the shore-line runs nearly straight to the Chehalis, distant 8 miles, and the
point of Stearn's Bluff lies S. 43° E., distant 4 miles. To the N.N.W. of
the line joining points New and Brown, lies North Bay, consisting of an
immense mud-flat, bare at low water, and having an area of 22 square
miles. At the head of it lies Saddle Hill. In the stretch of 4 miles N.W.
of Point New are three small streams, called the Typso, Chinois, and Humto-
lapy, emptying into North Bay. They work narrow, crooked channels
through the mud flats, but at low water there is not sufficient depth to carry
a whale-boat through them.
By measurement, we find that more than nine-tenths of Gray's Harbour
is bare at low water. Inside the entrance the area of the surface of the
water, bounded by the flats bare at low tide, is only 4 square miles. This
will give a fair idea of the limited extent of the harbour. Through the flats
lying between this available space and the Chehalis, run two contracted
channels. The northern commences at a point 2 miles N. 67° E. from Point
Brown, is the only available one, and would require buoying out for its
entire length. For about 6 miles it is three-eighths of a mile wide, with a
depth of 4 fathoms. The South channel commences just inside Point Hanson,
and is very contracted and shallow. The flats are so extensive, and the mud
so soft in places, that it is impossible to reach the shore except at high tides.
This fact has retarded the development of the trade in lumber, although the
shores are heavily timbered.
The trade of the bay amounts to carrying the supplies needed by a few
settlers, and by the small military post on the Chehalis.
The Chehalis River has been navigated by a small steamboat for 20
miles, to the mouth of the Latsop, which comes from the northward. The
country behind the bay appears low and flat, and well watered by the
Chehalis and tributaries, which drain a section well timbered, and dotted
with many small prairies and bottom lands.
Copalis River is little known. From Point Brown the shore-line trends
248
WASHINGTON TERRITORY.
about N.N.W. for 10 miles to the mouth of the Copalis. The barren waste
of Point Brown continues along this shore, commencing with a breadth of
over 1 mile, stretching from the ocean to a dense forest of fir, and growing
narrower as it approaches the Copalis, where the timber comes to the
water's edge.
This stream is about 100 yards wide, but the mouth is almost closed by a
bar. Upon its banks reside the Copalis tribe of Indians, from whom the
river derives its name. Like all the streams on this coast, it abounds in
salmon, but those caught here are celebrated for their richness of flavour.
From the Copalis to Point Grenville the shore runs N.W. N., about 16
miles, and continues low, nearly straight, and bordered by sand beach,
which changes to shingle, disposed in long rows parallel to the coast. These
ridges of shingle dam the mouths of many small streams and form ponds,
abounding in trout, and well stocked with beaver and otter, according to
the accounts of the Indians. The high land also approaches much nearer
the beach, and forms sandstone cliffs, with rocky ledges projecting into
the ocean.
3
POINT GRENVILLE is a bluff rocky promontory, stretching westward
about a mile, and then southward about a quarter, forming a very contracted
and exposed roadstead; with the 3-fathom curve extending half a mile from
the beach, compelling vessels, except of very light draught, to anchor so far
out, that the point and the rocks off it afford but little protection from the
N.W. winds. It is useless during the winter months. The point has high
hills lying behind it, and many rocks immediately off it. Two of these,
about 75 feet high, lie E. by S., 400 yards distant; another lies S.W. S.,
half a mile distant. This, we believe, is the one that shows a large perfo-
ration through it, when viewed from the S.E. or N.W. It has 5 and 6
fathoms all round it. Others stretch along the coast to the N.W., one of
them showing from the South as a leg-of-mutton sail. The bluff itself is
composed of fine sandstone, is very steep, and may be ascended by a difficult
trail, which is used by the Indians. It is said to be a great resort for sea
otters, which are hunted by the natives.
North of Point Grenville to Cape Flattery the shore is bold and rocky,
with occasional short reaches of sand-beach. The timber comes down to
the water; moderately high hills approach the coast, through which empty
numerous small streams, whilst the irregular Olympus range looms up far
in the interior. In winter these mountains are covered with snow, which
lies in the gorges and valleys nearly the whole summer. Mount Olympus is
the highest peak of the range. It attains an elevation of 8,138 feet, accord-
ing to determinations made in 1841; lat. 47° 45' N., long. 122° 37′ W.
Qué-ni-utl River.-The mouth of this small stream is between 3 and 4
miles N.W. by W. from Point Grenville, and is almost closed by the
shingle and gravel thrown up by the surf. There is, however, a contracted
DESTRUCTION ISLAND.
249
opening for the passage of canoes in calm weather. The closing of the
entrance has so dammed the river as to form a small lake inside, upon the
banks of which is situated a village of the Queniutls, a race of Indians
hostile to all other tribes. Combined with others to the northward, they
have ever been notorious for their hostility and vindictiveness to the whites.
Several Spanish, English, and Russian vessels and their crews were in
former times taken and destroyed. Hence we meet with the name Destruc-
tion Island, Isla de Dolores, Punta de Martires, &c., in this immediate
vicinity. The river is said to rise in a lake at the foot of the mountains.
For 4 miles above the Queniutl the coast trends in the same direction,
N.W. by W., is composed of sandstone cliffs, and bounded by many pre-
cipitous rocks, the height and direction of which are generally that of the
cliff. In the coast survey reconnaissance of 1852 one is placed 24 miles off
shore, in lat. 47° 27′, and the vessel's track is laid down inside of it. A
great many large rocky islets lie close inshore in this vicinity, but north-
ward the coast is nearly clear to Destruction Island. It maks a slight curve
eastward, and alternates with bold yellow cliffs and low shores.
DESTRUCTION ISLAND.-This island is the only one found deserving
the appellation after leaving the Farallones. It is about 150 high, quite
flat on the top, covered with grass, but destitute of trees, and has high per-
pendicular sides of the same height as the cliffs on the main. It is said that
there are some remarkable perforations through a rock near it, but these are
doubtless only seen in particular directions, for in passing close to it we
have never noticed them. On the eastern end were formerly some rude
Indian huts. In Vancouver's time he found two or three dwarf trees at
either end.
In running along the coast 10 miles off, it is very difficult to make out
this island, because, being between 1 mile of the main, it is projected
against the coast cliffs, and cannot be distinguished from them until close
upon it.
It is narrow, but about 1 mile long in a N.N.W. direction, run-
ning parallel with the coast, and has rocks for a mile off its southern end.
A reef and sand-bank is represented as stretching thence W.N.W. 3 miles
to broken water, and from there running nearly straight to the northern
end. A detailed examination of this locality might prove that good refuge
could be had under the island during heavy S.E. and S.W. weather. No
winter harbour of refuge exists between Point Reyes and Neé-ah Bay,
unless this be such, in which case it is of very great importance. This
island is called Isla de Dolores upon old Spanish maps. *
* It received its present name, by which it is only known on the coast, in 1787, from
Captain Berkely, who sent a long-boat from King George's Sound to explore as far South
as lat. 47°. The crew of a smaller boat entered a shallow river, and rowed up some dis-
tance, where they were attacked and murdered by the Indians.
250
WASHINGTON TERRITORY.
From Destruction Island northward the shore is composed of cliffs which
form a regular curve to a point bearing N.W. & W. from the North end of
the island, and 11 miles distant; thence the shore runs nearly straight on
that course for 10 to 2 miles, high, abrupt, and well-marked rocks standing
a mile from shore The outer one is bold, and covered with tall trees, but
the inner one is bare. They are in lat. 47° 58', long. 124° 41'. Many
others, but smaller, lie inside of them, and 19 fathoms are found close out-
side. Along this stretch the shore is irregular and bluff, with many high
rocky islets off it. A stream opens about midway in the stretch.
In the indentation northward of Destruction Island, and about 4 miles
from it, empties a small stream called Hooch by the Indians.
FLATTERY ROCKS.-From the two rocks just mentioned to Cape
Flattery in 48° 23', the course is almost N.N.W., passing through a group
of high, well-marked rocky islets, in lat. 48° 12′ N., named the Flattery
Rocks. Before reaching these the coast-line curves about a mile eastward,
with a bluff shore nearly free from rocks for about 8 miles, when a large
white.rock, half a mile out, looms up prominently, and is distinctly seen
against the main land.
Flattery Rocks extend between 2 and 3 miles from shore; the outer ledge
is awash, with one islet in it, and the track of the coast surveying steamer
is laid down inside of it, with soundings in 9 to 20 fathoms. High, abrupt,
timbered islets lie inside, with their ocean faces nearly perpendicular, about
150 feet high, and sloping landward. Where destitute of trees, these are
covered with grass, bushes, &c. "The latitude of the rocks is 48° 12′ N.
From Flattery Rocks we find a high rocky coast, bordered by outlying
rocks for 8 miles, when a low sand beach occurs, receiving a small stream
which runs E.N.E. and finally North, behind the mountain constituting
Cape Flattery, to within 200 yards of the beach in Neé-ah Bay. A rise of
20 or 30 feet of the sea would make Cape Flattery (an island extending 5
miles (W.N.W.) by 3 miles in breadth. This creek is used by the outer
coast Indians during the prevalence of heavy winter gales, when the passage
outside the cape would be impracticable.
From Point Grenville to Cape Flattery the hills rising from the coast are
about 2,000 ft. high, densely covered with trees, and cut up by innumerable
valleys. The shore is inhabited by numerous tribes of Indians accustomed
to war, and bitterly hostile to the whites. They are far superior to the
Indians found along the southern coast. These villages are heavily stock-
aded, and the houses made of cedar boards, which they have cut with great
industry from the tree. Their houses are very large, and partitioned off
into stalls for each family. The numerous streams emptying upon the coast
afford them a never-failing supply of the finest salmon; and to obtain means
of barter with white traders, they fearlessly attack and capture the different
species of whale on the coast.

to fur
page
251.
35
30'
Bonilla Pt
V A
N
C
1249
THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA
ADMIRALTY INLET AND PUGET SOUND
55
35
30'
ADMIRAL
I
abella P
31
Satellite Ch.
30
31
72
614
42
20
Pender
15
34 6
27
31
3 Swanson
I.
9 Saturna
116
100
9
13
82
120
S
Tambo 1. 1230
62
Patos
1.
528
100
52
57 19
57
27
28
Moresby
I.
Growland P
30
70
68
105
34
121
34
30'
125
70
Tatoosh
Lighthoo
104
89
103
Duncan R.
25
66
45
Nisco Pt
38
asset
CAPE CLASSET
13
Koikla Pt
Meena Vil
Neeah Bay
Wyadda I.
Okho R.
20
27
22
Owen P
Port San Juan
Observatory Rocks
Scarborough Pt
Klaholoh Rock
23
150 ft high
Pandora Peak
Gorden
Orasmah
U
Cooper Inlet
SAANICH INL.
72
16
42
21
VER
M.Wood 1600
IS L
M.Jeffrey 1800
44
Prevost
st Pass
290
105
85 Waldron I.
Stuart I.
24 7
++
178
42
44
12
John I.
42
30
88
Yo Douglas Chr
13
ORCAS
ISL
14
Spieden 1.
32
Village
Todd Gr
Cordova Ch
14
10
129
16
31
125
2400
ast Sound
22
39
Alden Bl
9
96
2
19
56
Sucia Is 36
Sandy P
36
GO
61
Matia I.
12
cony's
59
66
8
67
47
43
012
40
24
51
Barnes &
16
30'
Settlement
Coal Mines
1/4/2
11
7
8 13
167
15
BELLINGHAM
41
46 33
14
44
40
34
16
Lawrence P
56
14
15
35
Sinclair 33
Eliza I.
BAY
18
6
I
17
54
9 8
20
Herry I
19
15 47 Vendovial.
117
101
ney I.
217 26
34
15
21
16
13
11
27
35
20
5
19
2217
A
24
149
72
62
10
A
17
Shaw
15
936
20
64
8 Blakely I.
30
5
Cordova 19
72
32
9
34
21
126
5 14
JUAN I.
Guemes
3
10
20
3
39
89
22 36
34
36
34
24
38
40
Slip Pt
Callam B.
C
45
6525
Canel R
Ketsoth Vil.
35
30
C.Alava
Alaya B.
Cape Flattery
Tatoosh I. A fixed light at 162 ft.visible 20 miles.
New Dungeness. A fixed light at 100 ft.vis.14 m.
Smith I. A revolving light every 2 min. at 90 ft.vis.15 m.
38 18
47 39
41.
22
40
35
9 Sombrio R.
23
65
12
38
35
14
12
9 7
72
31
43
6
12
9
35
R.Jordan
24
10 9 56
67
12
Pillar Pt
Sherringham P
Bluff
35
Leading Peak
Sooke Basin
16 10
Maguire
Otter Pt
*
Sooke Bay
17
34
27
38
13
Sooke Inlet
Secretary I.
2
R.Lyre
Low Pt
6
8
22
जु
Becher B
Beechey H
S
Crescent Bay
Tongue Pt
Striped Peak
Esquimalt
Harbour
Salt L
Mary Peak
C.Church
20
100
T
10
ROYAL
Albert Head
Parry Bay
Pedder Bay
Bentinck L.
451
52
30 Lt flash
78
7.
100
7.
Observatory pt
105
s.sh.
Freshwater Bay
94
R
Angelos pt
6
Elwha
LO
14
31
19
A
47
50
Ediz Hook
30
B
geness
False Dunge
30
36
40
86
35
12 9
uft.
7
T 45
80
83
6
Bertodano
New
27.
30
Dungeness B.
Covet
70
27
24
45
30
50
20.
30
10
Protection 13
33
14 35
9
13
1.6
36
Challam P
34
21
Partridge Pt
P.DISCOVERY
Vancouver P
26
22
10
17 5
28
Hudson P
C.George
Beckett
25
Chinook
13 20
10
Penn Cove
20
35
Jaght F
Wilson Pamiralty Ho
12
63
3,
TOWNSEND
73
Admiralty
13
46
Marrowstone
22
44
27
23
Zero R.
37
30 7 I.
Padilla
IL
24
118 30
200
2
Bay
30
Gordon Head
124
MDouglas
22
70
Luke Hill
B.
100
MTolme
24
28 30
HARO
116
150
Griffin
Bay
26
19 12
9
16
5
Bay
49
30'
14
44
LOPEZ I.
48
6
24
r
91
函 ​25 40
97
Victoma
Chatham LS
27 10
VICTORIA
46
Foul B
Discovery
I.
TRAIT
96
24
21
12
Ledge 30
22
Cover B
27
Trial E
Chain I
Gonzales Pt
10
95
47
13
81
50
30 43
BAY 57
43
40
31
Middle Ch
53
57
51
29
55
50
S
Fonte B
15 84
s.sh 49
William H
49 49
43
45
56
70 22
67
73
49
65
64
sh.
10
6
26
63
42.
Smith or Bluntl
48
C.Colville
19
ROSARIO STRAIT
73
53
Deception Pass
Burrows
26 5
FIDALGO
43
12
41
85
ID
55
24
42
31
6LRev. min. 17
19
50ft vis. 15 m.
67
31
69
26
14
56
40 35
6
34
9
76
40
m
H
I
18
66
33333
63
39
10
75
9
40
Dungeness
Lightho. L
38
5
21
14
16 14
Forbes Pt 14
29
24
24
19
24
28
3/
30'
124°
30'
48°
Calset P
Salmon R
Cove I
ESQUIMALT & VICTORIA
HARBOURS.
24
22
Smart I
24
Salt Lagoon
Coburg
Penina
Belmont
34
Rodd Pt
81
Dhuntze H
LE65 f
8
Fisgard 19
7
Scrogg R
Macarthy I. Plumper
Whale
White R
54
Dunns Noole
7
34
Bay
54 5
72
180 ft
Inskip I
6
65
Ashe H
5½
BP ESQUIMALT
6
HARBOUR
Red L
7
6
6
Constance
Grant Knoll
6
Cove 52
PORTAGE
INLET
5
10
One Nautic Mile.
10
20
3 GARDNER
40
40
RL
Alan Pt
21
53
24
10
Scatcha
55
30
Fresh
8.
HW.F&CI30m
Rise 7 feet.
21 water
34
Oak 15
Tribe
30
21
30
22
Bay
14 6
20
30
016
304
30
30
5
Port Ludlow
30
27
Foutre 3,
B
30
Pilot Cove 3
7
L
Dahap Inlet
Suquamish
Harbour
Colseed Inlet
33
20 25
35
55
40
60
30
Port3
Gamble
POSSESSION SOUND
28
42
46
50
SUSAN
ama
100
29
60
54
13
60
44
Narrows
1 Selkirk
1 Water
32
13 70
29
50 40
60
Naval Hos
150 ft.
12
Rock B.
S
Long
Cove
6
Toanda
Tribe
21
45
45
60
20
Sylo
pish f
64
Iskutska P
64
45
Seabeck I
45
Hahamish H
53
60
Hazel Pt
Apple tree
2 Love
15 30 Z
Port Madison
40
39
Nahamish
Tribe
10
10
12
13
11 10
10
ROYAL
10
ROADS 10
12
/10
13
White Lt
12
13
12
00
10
Thetis Cott.
open of Inskip Is
8
10
10
13 Brothers
15
Ids
6
34
6
12 10
10
9
20
6
21
11
13
13
16
13
10
Cape Saxe
8
Gillingham Is
12
8
17
16
13
8
11
4
10
VAR. 22:7 E.
20
12
13
18
19
16
m
m
23
Macaulay
9
9
11
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13
23
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20
11
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zn
21
F
11
36
30
S
25
25
8
4
6
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Maclaughlin
10
K.
15 VICTORIA
West Bay
14
14
Shoal
1
2
Work Pt
2호
​Rose
B.
8
-10
22
30'
24
24
James
Bay
42
Ogden
14
9
44
VICTOR
I
Parke
0
Neelim
Vancouver's farthest
D
34 63
63
10
62
Chinom Pt
13
55
Socomish
10
Dudah Pt
64
45
Tribe
45 Musqueti pt
46
40
50 28
pt
25
15
Bambridge
TO
8
Island
30
30
14
15
28
Port
Orchard
59
storation
13
60
10
53
17
54
355
55
60
55
4
Sinawamis R.
65
45
55
33
19
39
13
Kellim Lake
2326
14
10
15
DI.
W. limit of Lt
25
m
17
19
14
29
66
35
35
19 19
21
20
20
25
19
19
m
26
20
28
25
29
29
36
20
47
1772
10
8
54
6
39
10
30
17
Brotchy Ledge
Holland P
colst
35
23
White Spar B 3
15 fat L.W.
10
Glimpse
R
34
8
14
12
8
10
6
19
34
34
30
32
32
21
17
Macaulay pt WAN
13
13
6
8
Finlayson
Pt
8
9
Beacon Hill
1401
I
P
U
Hammerley Inlet
72
20
16
23 15
32
20
64
10
S
45
28
28
28
37
33
13
27
17
16
35
16
28
23
23
27
24
28
27
27
32
34
32
32
S
26
20
20
20
20
Totten Inter
Eld Inlet
McNeil
32
28 17 54
30
06
40
33
40
70
Anderson I
10
25
12 40
40
50
Lenderson Inlet
14
Budd Inlet
Mud
flat
Chelakom R.
Kitson I.
D
H.W. F.& Ch.V110 Springs rise 18 ft.
Nisqually R.
Neaps 12 A.
FORT NIS QUALLY
13
62
23
35
15
5
28
PDefiance
The 45
arrows
35
35
24
16
50
34
30
Commencement Bay
Puyallup
1230
30'
15
18
R.H LAURIE, 53. FLEET STREET, LONDON.
THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.
251
THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.
The discovery of this important strait was the subject of much controversy.
It was attributed, in a narrative published in Purchas's Pilgrims, to a Greek
pilot, known as Juan de Fuca, but whose real name was Apostolos Valeri-
anos. He related that he found, in 1592, a channel here leading from the
Pacific into the Atlantic, which was then named the Strait of Anian. Much
doubt was thrown on this statement, and, by a singular fatality, its entrance
was passed unperceived by Cook and others, so that these uncertainties
seemed to be confirmed, and the strait was not re-discovered till Capt. Ken-
drick entered it in the American sloop Washington in 1789. It was well
surveyed by Captain George Vancouver in 1792, and the very singular
character of the inlets diverging from it to the S.E. were then first ascer-
tained. The shores of the strait were surveyed by Captain (afterwards
Admiral) H. Kellett, in the Herald, in 1847, and to the south-east of the
strait, Vancouver's work was re-examined by Commodore Wilkes, U.S.N.,
but he found but little to correct. More complete surveys of some of the
ports, &c., have been since made by the officers of the U.S. coast survey,
since their occupation of the Washington territory, and it is to the last-
named authorities that we owe most of the subsequent description of the
South side of the channel, leaving that of the opposite shore of Vanvouver's
Island for the ensuing chapter. We have also derived some of the following
from the accounts given by Captain G. H. Richards, R.N.
From its geographical position, the strait is liable to all those sudden
vicissitudes of weather common to high northern latitudes; and in few parts
of the world is the caution and vigilance of the navigator more called into
action than in entering it.
The breadth of the strait between Cape Flattery, its southern point, and
Bonilla Point, Vancouver Island, its northern, is 13 miles; within these
points it soon narrows to 11 miles, and carries this breadth on an East
course for 40 miles, or until Race Islands bear N.E. by E., distant, 10 miles;
it then takes an E.N.E. direction for a further distance of 14 miles to the
shore of the continent, or more properly Whidbey Island.
Between Race Islands and the southern shore the breadth of the strait is
8 miles, after which it immediately expands to 17 miles, leading northwards
to the British possessions by various channels among the labyrinth of
islands known as the Haro Archipelago, and southward to those of the
United States, by Admiralty Inlet and Puget Sound.
The coasts of Fuca Strait are remarkably free from danger, and may be
approached safely within half a mile. There is one breaking rock which
252
JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT.
lies nearly that distance off the West point of Crescent Bay on the southern
shore. The soundings in the centre are of great depth, but within 1 mile.
of either shore there is generally under 40 fathoms. On both sides of the
strait there are several anchorages or stopping places which may be taken
advantage of by vessels, either inward or outward bound when meeting
with adverse winds.
On the northern or Vancouver Island shore of the strait the hills rise
gradually, and are densely wooded, but near the coast attain to no great
elevation; on the southern side the almost perpetually snow-clad mountains
known as the Olympian range, rise more abruptly, and vary in elevation
from 4,000 to more than 7,000 feet; but though exceedingly grand in their
rugged outline, present no very marked summits as seen from the strait, nor
any great variety in their features.
In the outer part of Juan de Fuca Strait there is no very great strength
of tide; it varies from 1 to 4 knots, seldom so much as the latter, unless
near Cape Flattery; but when approaching the more contracted part in the
neighbourhood of the Race Islands, which receives the first rush of the
pent-up waters of the Strait of Georgia, strengthened and diverted by the
labyrinth of islands which choke up its southern entrance, it is not sur-
prising that eddies, races, and irregularities occur which almost baffle any
attempt at framing laws which may not rather embarrass than assist the
seaman.
CAPE FLATTERY or Classet is a remarkable point of land, and dis-
tinctly seen at a distance of 35 miles, rising gradually from the sea to a
thickly-wooded mountain nearly 2,000 feet high, with an irregular shaped
summit, and falling again at the distance of 3 or 4 miles to the eastward.
When seen from the southward or S. W. it has the appearance of an island,
being separated by a stretch of low land from hills of the same or greater
elevation, which rise again immediately southward of it.
On a nearer view, the headland itself, with its wild off-lying rocks, over
which the sea is almost constantly breaking, presents no inviting appearance.
It is a rugged sea-worn cliff, of no great elevation, and rising gradually to
its more prominent feature, a densely wooded mountain. From the cape
the coast trends E.N.E. for 4 miles to Neé-ah Bay, and though no positive
dangers exist half-a-mile from the shore eastward of the cape, there is
generally a heavy swell with irregular tides, and vessels are by no means
recommended to approach it within a mile.
Tatouch or Tatoosh Island, lying W.N.W. half a mile from Cape Flat-
tery, is a steep, almost perpendicular rocky islet, bare of trees, and 100
feet high, with some reefs extending a short distance off its western side.
The lighthouse, known among seamen as Cape Flattery light, stands on the
summit of the island, which, with its outlying reef, is the most western
portion of the United States. A leaning rocky column, 75 feet high, and 25
NEEAH BAY.
253
feet diameter, is seen to the S.E. close under the cape. It is sometimes
called De Fuca's Pillar or Pinnacle Rock.
The LIGHTHOUSE consists of a keeper's dwelling of stone, with a tower
of brick, whitewashed, its height being 66 feet above the summit of the
island. It shows a fixed white light of the first order, elevated 162 feet, and
in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 18 miles, so that a vessel
from the southward will make it before being up with the Flattery Rocks.
Its position is in lat. 48° 23′ 15″ N., and long. 124° 43′ 50″ W.
Duncan Rock lies N.W. by N. a mile from Tatouch Island; it is a small
low black rock, a few feet above water, but the sea always breaks over it.
There is deep water between it and the island, but vessels are recom-
mended not to take the passage unless compelled to do so.
Duntze Rock, with 3 fathoms water on it, lies about a quarter of a mile
N.W. by N. from Duncan rock, and frequently breaks. Sailing vessels are
recommended not to approach the lighthouse on Tatouch Island nearer than
3 miles. In the immediate neighbourhood of Cape Flattery, and among
these rocks, the tides are strong and irregular.
NEEAH BAY is between Koikla Point and Wyadda Island; the latter
half a mile long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, is narrow, and covered with
pine trees. Koikla or Koitlah Point, is 4 miles E.N.E. from the lighthouse
on Tatouch Island. The bay offers a safe and convenient anchorage to
vessels meeting S.W. or S.E. gales at the entrance of the strait. The
western shore is steep and cliffy; a reef extends for more than a cable off
Koikla Point, and within the point a sand-bank, which dries, extends off a
quarter of a mile at low water. The head of the bay is a low sandy beach,
on which there is generally some surf rolling. On the eastern side of the
bay off the S. W. side of the Wyadda (or Woaddah) Island, a rocky ledge
and shoal water extend for 3 cables, and the holding ground is not so good
on the island side.
A good berth will be found in Neeah Bay, in 6 fathoms sandy bottom,
with the outer point of Wyadda Island N.E. by N., and Koikla Point
W. by N. A short distance within this position kelp grows in large
patches all over the bay, and some care is necessary in selecting a berth.
Large sailing vessels may anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms a little outside the above
bearings, in the centre of the bay, with the outer point of the island N.E.
by E. It is high water in the bay at 12h 33m; springs rise 74 feet; neaps,
43 feet.*
* Commander R. C. Mayne, R.N., who was engaged on the survey under Captain G. H.
Richards, says in his interesting book that the Indians muster here in large numbers,
owing to the quantity of cod, halibut, and other fish, on the bank running out from the
shore of the island. The fishery will, no doubt, at some future time, prove a source of
considerable profit to the colony.
254
JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT.
A vessel should leave this bay on any indication of a N.E. wind, and if
too late, and unable to weather Wyaddy Island, she may, with the assistance
of the chart, run between it and the main.
The rugged coast to the eastward of Neeah Bay is quite unfit for settle-
ment; although behind the rocks which lide the shore lies much rich and
fertile land, which, however, can only be reached from Admiralty Inlet and
Puget Sound.
CALLAM BAY.-From Neeah to Callam Bay the distance is 15 miles.
The intervening coast, which trends in an E. S. direction, is nearly straight,
and the shore bold, the only remarkable feature being Klaholoh (Seal Rock),
150 feet high, which lies a short distance off the shore, 2 miles eastward of
Wyadda Island. It is easily recognized by Slip Point, its eastern bluff,
which is the western termination of a bold coast ridge, about 1,000 feet in
elevation.*
The Coast from Callam Bay continues in the same direction for 8 miles
to Pillar Point, so called from its terminating in a bare columnar-shaped
rock, a little remarkable, where, from the character of the country, gene-
rally thickly wooded from summit to water-line, few objects present them-
selves by which vessels may accurately fix their positions. The coast on the
East side of this point forms a small bight, in which there is a considerable
stream and an Indian village, and then trends E. by N., with a gentle curve
to Striped Peak; a small river, the Lyre, emptying itself just eastward of a
low point 7 miles westward of the peak.
Striped Peak is rather remarkable from a landslip occurring down its face,
and from which it received its name. It is several hundred ft. high, but the
landslip is rapidly becoming obliterated by vegetation. At 1 mile westward
of the peak, and a third of a mile off the West point of Crescent Bay, which
is merely an indentation, lies a rock, which breaks at low water; this is the
only danger which occurs on the southern side of the strait. Westward of
this, some kelp grows a short distance from the beach on the somewhat
sheltered part between Striped Peak and Pillar Point, and here the depth of
water at a mile from the shore varies from 8 to 16 fathoms; westward of
Pillar Point it deepens to 40 fathoms at that distance.
FRESHWATER BAY, at 3 miles eastward of Striped Peak, between
Observatory and Angelos points, is a nearly a mile deep, and more than 2
miles wide in an East and West direction. The two entrance points are
E. by N. and W. by S. of each other, and within this line the depth varies
from 6 to 12 fathoms. Observatory Point has several rocks lying a short
distance off it; the western side of the bay is a high bold shore. Angelos
* About halfway along the face of this ridge is a vein of lignite, a coal not fit for steam-
ship use, but it contained 68 per cent, of carbon. The face of this ridge has deep water,
but the bottom is very irregular.
PORT ANGELOS-NEW DUNGENESS BAY.
255
Point, the eastern entrance point, is low; the river Elwha emptying itself
through it, forms a delta. Vessels may anchor within the line of the points
in from 6 to 9 fathoms.
PORT ANGELOS or False Dungeness is 7 miles eastward of the East
point of Freshwater Bay, the intervening coast forming rather a deep indenta-
tion to the southward, off which as little as 3 fathoms water is found nearly
a mile from the shore. The North side of the port is bounded by one of
those low narrow sand or shingle spits which are a characteristic feature of
the country. This spit, which is named Ediz Hook, curves from a high bluff
in an E.N.E. direction for nearly 3 miles, and forms a large and good har-
bour. On the North or spit side the water is deep, varying from 15 to 30
fathoms; but southward of a line drawn through the centre there is excel-
lent anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms in any part of the port. The outer
part of the spit is steep-to, and may be rounded close-to, after which the
port extends for 2 miles in a westerly direction, by more than a mile in
breadth. Although open to easterly winds, they do not blow home. A
large spar beacon painted white has recently been erected on Ediz Hook,
which is a good guide to the entrance during daytime. Fresh water is to be
obtained from streams on the South side of the port.
The spit is so low that at times the sea washes over it, and as it is impos-
sible to see it at any distance, vessels would be apt at night to run on it if
passing close to the southern shore of the strait. Dungeness light, therefore,
should not be brought to bear to the northward of E. by N. ½ N., which
will lead more than 2 miles off, but as the spit is nearly 13 miles from the
light, the latter would not in all states of the weather be visible; and at
night vessels should not go within the depth of 14 fathoms.
NEW DUNGENESS BAY.-The shore from False Dungeness gradually
curves to the N.E., and about 8 or 9 miles from Ediz Hook, another long,
low, narrow sand-spit, covered with grass, stretches from the bluff shore in
a general N.N.E. direction for 33 miles, forming the north-western side of
the roadstead of New Dungeness. A shoal with 2 fathoms extends N.N.E.
for half a mile from the end of the point, and a heavy tide-rip runs over it
at the change of the currents. On the inside, 1 mile from the eastern ex-
tremity, another narrow sand-spit stretches 1 mile southward towards the
main shore, forming a large inner shoal bay with a narrow opening, through
which the water passes as over a rapid; at low tide, abreast this point, is a
small stream, on the western side of which is a bluff 60 feet high, and
upon it is a large village of the Clallums. The shore eastward of the stream
is low, swampy, and covered with trees and brush; it forms the southern
or main shore of the roadstead, and off it are extensive mud-flats, which
are bare at low water for five-eighths of a mile, and run as far as Washing-
ton or Budds harbour; shoal water exists for some distance outside these
flats. About 20 fathoms are found a quarter of a mile South of the light-
256
JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT.
house point, the depth regularly decreasing across the bay with a soft tena-
cious muddy bottom.
Fresh water may be obtained in abundance at the above stream, but boats
must obtain their supply at low tide, and come out when the tide has suffi-
ciently risen.
LIGHT.—At about a sixth of a mile within the outer end of the point is
a structure consisting of a keeper's dwelling, of stone, with a tower of brick;
the upper half being a dark lead colour, the lower half white. The tower
is 92 feet high, and its elevation above the sea 100 feet. It exhibits a fixed
white light of the third order, which should be seen from a distance of 15
miles. Lat. 48° 10′ 59″ N., long. 123° 6' 7" W.
A fog bell, of 1,100 pounds weight, has been placed upon the outer ex-
tremity of the lighthouse point at New Dungeness, and it will be sounded
every ten seconds during foggy or thick weather day or night.
The usual and best anchorage in New Dungeness Bay, is to bring the
lighthouse to bear about N. by E. E. half a mile distant, where 10 fathoms
are found a third of a mile off the beach. With the lighthouse bearing
N.W. by N. three-quarters of a mile distant, the same depth and bottom
are found, the nearest shore will bear South 1 mile, and the mud flat three-
quarters of a mile in the same direction; from this position a vessel can
readily get under weigh and clear the point.
It is high water, full and change, at New Dungeness, at 3h, and the rise.
is 5 feet.
The Coast from New Dungeness trends to the S.S.E. for nearly 7 miles,
and forms a deep indentation, in the western corner of which is Washington
(or Budds) harbour, and in the eastern Port Discovery. The entrance of
the former is almost closed by a long sand-spit extending from the eastern
side, leaving a narrow channel with only 2 fathoms water, which deepens
within to 13 fathoms.
PORT DISCOVERY, the harbour where Vancouver anchored and refitted
his ships, and from whence he commenced his exploration of these regions
in May, 1792, is an extensive inlet running in a southerly and south-east
direction for 6 miles, with an average breadth of 1½ mile; the general depth
of water is from 20 to 30 fathoms, but an anchorage may be had on the West
side 1 mile within the entrance in 15 fathoms, close to the shore. At the
head of the port there are 10 fathoms, but a mud flat extends for a mile
from the shore.
Protection Island lies immediately off the entrance of the port, and
shelters it from N.W. winds. The North side of the island is shoal for half
a mile off, and there is a 3-fathom patch bearing N.W. 2 miles from its
North point; reefs extend also off the East and West points for half a mile,
but there is a clear deep channel in on either side. A spit extends a short
distance off Clallum Point, the western point of entrance.
ADMIRALTY INLET-PORT TOWNSHEND.
257
ADMIRALTY INLET.-At 14 miles E.N.E. from New Dungeness light,
is the entrance to Admiralty Inlet, between Wilson Point on the West and
Partridge Point on the East, the latter a remarkable sloping cliff of a
whitish colour; and here commences that extensive and singular series of
inland navigation, which penetrates the continent in a general southerly
direction for nearly 90 miles.
LIGHT.—On Admiralty Head, which forms the inner eastern entrance
point of the inlet, and bears N.E. by E. 34 miles from Wilson Point, is a
fixed white light of the fourth order, elevated 119 feet above the mean level
of the sea, and visible in clear weather at a distance of 17 miles. This light
is of the greatest benefit to the numerous vessels entering Port Townshend
and the inlet.
PORT TOWNSHEND lies at the threshold of Admiralty Inlet, and is the
port of entry for Washington Territory. Vessels leaving Fuca Strait have
frequently, when overtaken by a westerly gale, been compelled to bear up
and seek shelter in it. Although a safe harbour, from its great extent it is
subject to a disagreeable sea during strong winds.
4
The entrance is between Wilson and Marrowstone Points, the latter bear-
ing from the former E.S.E. 34 miles. At 12 mile inside Wilson Point, and
on the same side is Hudson Point, the distance between which and Marrow-
stone Point is also 12 mile; and between these two points is more properly
the true entrance of the port, which now runs in a S.S.W. direction for 2
miles, and then S.E. for about the same distance, the average breadth being
nearly 2 miles; the general depth of water is from 9 to 15 fathoms good
holding ground, soft mud when within Hudson Point. Wilson Point is
low, with sand hillocks on its extreme; a shoal spit extends for nearly half
a mile off it. Hudson Point should be rounded within half a mile or
less.
At half a mile within Hudson Point there is good anchorage in the
western side of the port, off the houses, in 10 fathoms, half a mile from the
shore.
The town of Port Townshend has increased very much since the discovery
of gold on Fraser River. No fresh water (1862) is to be had, but vessels
can obtain a small supply near the military post. Some fine farms lie near
the town, and vegetables are plentiful at reasonable prices. The place was
noted for the rough character of its "beach combers."
A military post has been established on the bluff, 23 miles S. by W. from
the town, and on a site which commands one of the most beautiful views
in these waters, having the bluff and varied shores of the bay on either
hand.
Marrowstone Point is a low sandy point stretching 300 yards eastward
from the base of the bluff, and forming an indentation on its southern face,
North Pacific.
S
258
ADMIRALTY INLET.
where anchorage may be had in 12 fathoms, with a current or eddy inva-
riably running ebb.
ADMIRALTY HEAD.-Abreast of the entrance to Port Townshend, is a
perpendicular cliff 80 feet high, falling on the eastern side to a low, pebbly
shore, which runs 2 miles to the E.N.E., and strikes the high cliffs on the
eastern side of the inlet.
The Lighthouse on Admiralty Head consists of a keeper's dwelling, with
a white tower rising to a height of 41 feet, and the elevation of the light is
119 feet. The light is fixed, and visible about 17 miles. Its geographical
position is, lat. 48° 9' 22", long. 122° 40′ 8".
ADMIRALTY INLET is a collection of very singular and labyrinthine
channels, terminating at Puget Sound and its various branches, which reach
the lat. of 47° 2. Some portions of their shores are remarkably fertile and
beautiful, and it would seem to be almost the only eligible part for coloniza-
tion in the Washington Territory. The settlements formed by its original
settlers, emanated from the Hudson's Bay Company.
The whole of these inlets were accurately and amply explored and sur-
veyed, for the first time by Vancouver, in May, 1792, and most of the names
were applied by him. Hood's Canal was thus named after Lord Hood.
The American Exploring Expedition, under Captain Wilkes, also surveyed
the assemblage of inland waters, adding the names not given by Vancouver,
chiefly those of the officers of the expedition.
The shores of all these inlets and bays are remarkably bold; so much so,
that in many places a ship's side would strike the shore before the keel
would touch the ground.
Starting from abreast Marrowstone Point the mid-channel course up Ad-
miralty Inlet runs S.E. by S. S. for 7 miles. The shores on either hand
are bluffs of apparently uniform height, covered with trees. After running
thus about 5 miles there will be passed, on the eastern shore, a low point,
with one or two clumps of trees and bushes, to which has been given the
name Bush Point. On the western shore is a rounding bluff point 1 mile
North of the point which forms the N.E. part of Oak Bay; off this point is
good anchorage in 12 or 15 fathoms. The high bold headland, several
miles directly ahead, is Foulweather Bluff, and that to the E.S.E. destitute of
trees, except one large clump, which marks it conspicuously from this direc-
tion, is Double Bluff. The deep indentation between it and Bush Point, with
low land in the rear, is Mutiny Bay. At the end of the course Oak Bay
opens to the westward, and stretches towards the waters of Port Towns-
hend. It has bluff shores nearly all around it. The depth of water is 5 to 15
fathoms. The length of the bay is 3 miles, and its average width about
11 mile.
The opening West of Foulweather Bluff is Hood's Canal; vessels bound
into it keep close to the western shore of the bluff, and pass two low points
PORTS MADISON AND ORCHARD.
259
lying near together. The next or third course up the inlet is E.S.E. for 10
miles, passing on the eastward Double Bluff, which stretches north-eastward
for a mile, and rises 300 or 400 feet, having its top covered with wood. The
bluff running also to the northward forms Useless Bay. This has deep water
over the greater portion of it, with a large shallow bay called Deer Lagoon at
its head. The high bluff forming the southern point of Useless Bay is
Satchet Head. A similar bluff lies 2 miles E. by S. of it. These form the
southern extremity of Whidbey Island, in lat. 47° 54′, and are the turning
points into Possession Sound.
Foulweather Bluff.-On the western side of the last mid-channel course is
Foulweather Bluff (already noticed), which is pendicular on its N.N.W.
face, and about 225 feet high, with heavy firs upon its summit. It slopes
towards the East to a bluff 40 feet high, but is steep on the side next to
Hood's Canal. The low point, 4 miles eastward of it, is No Point, making
well out, and destitute of trees or bushes; thence the western shore runs
nearly straight S.E. by S. for 10 miles.
At the end of the last course the inlet expands to a width of 7 miles. The
next, or fourth mid-channel course up the inlet is S.S.E. for 21 miles to
Allen Bank, which lies a mile off the North end of Vashon Island. Five
miles on this course, or 7 from No Point, brings us to an excellent little
harbour on the western side of the inlet, called Apple-tree Cove, having a
low point on the North side, with a soft mud-flat extending several hundred
yards up the inlet. There is no fresh water in the vicinity, but very good
timber may be procured suitable for boat-spars, and booms.
The inlet is here only 3 miles wide, and continues so to Point Jefferson, 2
miles southward of Apple-tree Cove. This is a moderately low, straight
bluff, with the ground rising behind it, and covered with timber. Stretching
broad off its eastern face for three-quarters of a mile is a 9-fathom shoal,
which affords capital anchorage for vessels when drifting with light airs and
adverse currents.
PORTS MADISON and Orchard.-Point Jefferson is the northern side of
the entrance to this port, which runs 3 miles W.S.W., with an average
width of 2 miles, and a large depth of water, except under Point Jefferson,
where anchorage may be had in 10 and 15 fathoms, hard sandy bottom,
with patches of kelp inshore.
The S.E. point of the entrance is low and sandy, making out from high
wooded ground. One mile West of it is the narrow entrance to a natural
canal, upon which, in full view, are situated the Port Madison saw-mills.
At the S.W. part of the bay is the very narrow entrance to Port Orchard.
The channel is somewhat crooked, but it has 3 and 4 fathoms water in it.
On the western side of this entrance are some white patches of beach, formed
by clam shells. Both sides of the entrance are bluffs. Vessels not well
acquainted with the channel must enter under easy sail,
and keep a lead
$ 2
260
ADMIRALTY INLET.
going on each side of the vessel to ascertain where the deepest water lies.
After getting through give the point, 1 mile off on the western side, a berth
of nearly half a mile, to avoid a shoal which makes out East from it.
Bainbridge Island lies between Port Orchard, Port Madison, and Admi-
ralty Inlet. It is 8 or 9 miles long by 24 in breadth, and its general direc-
tion is S.E. by S. A few loggers' huts stand on the western side, and the
Madison saw-mill at the North end. On the S.E. part it is indented by two
small harbours.
Duwamish Bay.-Abreast of Port Madison the eastern shore of the inlet
retreats, and there receives several small streams of water, but it gradually
makes out into a very long low sand-point, called West Point, which forms
the extreme N. W. part of the entrance to Duwamish Bay. The bay runs
E. by S. 6 miles, and has a width of 2 miles. To the South point, called
Battery Point, which is low and bare, with a curiously shaped mound rising
sharply behind it, the course is about S.E. by S., and distant 4½ miles.
Through the centre of the bay the depth ranges from 88 to 40 fathoms. On
the North side of Battery Point a vessel anchoring in 20 fathoms cannot
have a greater scope of chain than 35 fathoms without being too close to the
shore. On this side of Battery Point is the deserted town of Alki (the
Indian phrase for "by-and-by"). The town has had several names, but
there is nothing about it to command trade.
The town of Seattle is on a small point at the N.E. part of the bay, a little
over 5 miles inside of West point. It consists of a few houses and stores, a
church, and a small saw-mill; and a number of university buildings are to be
erected (1862). It has but little trade. Seattle has been proposed as the
terminus of the northern trans-continental railroad, penetrating the Cascade
Mountains by the Yakima Pass, and thereby making the line 140 miles
shorter than by the Columbia River pass, which is remarkably favourable,
whilst the former is only possibly practicable.
The usual anchorage is directly off the wharf in 10 to 15 fathoms water,
with the large white house on the extreme point bearing about East, or
E. by S., and at a distance from the beach of about 500 yards.
RESTORATION POINT.-From the S.E. point of Port Madison to this
point the shore is bluff and somewhat irregular, and is indented first by
Eagle harbour, having a long pebbly spit making out 300 or 400 yards S.E.
from its North point; and next, at Point Restoration, by Blakely Harbour,
having off its entrance a large rock, 15 feet high, with deep water all round
it. Blakely Harbour is only a quarter of a mile wide and three-quarters
long, with 18 fathoms sticky bottom at its mouth. Eagle Harbour is larger
and more commodious than Blakely.
The geographical position of the triangulation station of the Coast Survey
upon this point is, lat. 47° 35′ 6″, long. 122° 28′ 15″. From this point
Battery Point bears E. by N. 2 N., distant 24 miles.
COMMENCEMENT BAY.
261
The approximate establishment at Restoration Point is 4h 4m. The mean
rise and fall of tides is 7.4 feet.
South of Restoration Point, Admiralty Inlet opens westward for a couple
of miles into a bay, in which is situated an island about three-quarters of a
mile in extent, called Blake Island. From the N.W. part of the bay a nar-
row crooked pass, 3 miles long, leads to the southern part of Port Orchard,
which spreads out into several arms. The pass is obstructed by rocks, and
is difficult of navigation.
Our last course brought us to Allen Bank, off the North end of Vashon
Island, with Blake Island to the westward, and three-quarters of a mile
distant. This bank is nearly a mile in extent, and has as little as 10 fathoms
upon it, with a variable bottom, in some places mud, and in others hard
sand. The N.E. point of Vashon Island is Dolphin Point; the N.W. point,
Point Vashon; the point abreast of it is Point Southworth; and the mile-
wide channel, commencing between the last two points, is Colvos Passage,
running West of Vashon Island.
The main body of Admiralty Inlet continues about S.E. for 8 miles, then
S.S.W. 8 miles further, with an average width of 2 miles. In this stretch
the currents are moderately strong, the chances for anchoring few, and it is
sometimes calm while a fine breeze is blowing through Colvos passage.
Brace Point lies on the East side of the inlet, N.E. from Dolphin Point.
The round-topped point having two or three lone fir-trees upon it, and
situated on the same side of the inlet, 4 miles above Brace Point, is called
Point Pully; the water is very deep close to it on either side.
Colvos Passage is the usual, we may say the invariably used ship-channel
towards Puget Sound. It is about a mile wide, with high bluff shores,
varied by numerous small, low sand-points making out from the face of the
bluff, and having deep water off them. The passage is 11 miles long to the
South end of Vashon Island, called Dalco Point, and it runs with a nearly
straight course S. by E. At 1½ mile inside of Point Vashon there is a small
curve in the shore-line called Fern Cove, with excellent anchorage in 5 and
10 fathoms. Abreast of Dalco Point on the western shore there is a small
harbour, with a narrow and shoal entrance, called Gig Harbour. Looking
out of the passage to the North, Mount Baker shows distinctly in clear
weather.
COMMENCEMENT BAY.-When abreast of Dalco Point this bay, at the
termination of Admiralty Inlet, opens to the E.S.E., and over its low back-
ground shows the high snow-covered peak of Mount Rainier. The general
direction of the bay is E. by S. S., with a length of 3 or 4 miles, a width
of 2 miles, and a great depth of water up to the line of the extensive flat at
its head, which is backed by marsh.
Vashon Island, lying between the southern extremity of Admiralty Inlet
and Colvos Passage, is 114 miles long, with an average width of 23 miles.
262
PUGET SOUND.
Halfway down on its eastern side lies a curiously shaped peninsula, formed
by a narrow, low sandy neck of land, which makes out into the inlet, and
then runs towards the South point of the island. The space between this
peninsula and the island is an excellent harbour, 4 or 5 miles long, and
three-quarters of a mile wide, having a depth of 5 to 10 fathoms water
in it.
The island is high, with steep shores, covered with wood and undergrowth.
Its surface is marshy in many parts that are quite elevated. The harbour
formed by it and the peninsula is known as Quartermaster Harbour.
Point Defiance and the Narrows.-The high, sharp yellow bluff facing
the South entrance to Colvos Passage is called Point Defiance, and between
it and the western shore pass all the waters of Puget Sound. This passage
is named the Narrows. Its average width is three-quarters of a mile, and
very uniform; the shores are high, bold, and in some places rocky. For 2
miles to the S.E. its course is a regular curve. The next turn is to the
southward, and at a distance of 2 miles in that direction the waters of the
sound open ahead, with a narrow pass between the main and Fox Island to
the West.
PUGET SOUND is a most singular termination to Admiralty Inlet. The
fertility of its shores, and its fine climate, may possibly make it of consider-
able importance in future years. It received the name of Mr. Puget, the
officer under Vancouver's expedition, who originally surveyed it.
Puget Sound may be described as a collection of inlets, covering an area
of 15 miles square, the only entrance to which is through the Narrows,
which, if strongly fortified, would bid defiance to any attack, and guard its
entrance against any force.
The inlets, in the order in which they come from the entrance, have re-
ceived the names of Carr's, Case's, Hammersley's, Totten's, Eld's, Budd's, and
Henderson's, from the officers of the United States' Exploring Expedition;
they are united by passages, which form several islands and peninsulas. All
these inlets are safe, commodious, and capacious harbours, well supplied
with water, and the land around them fertile. On many of the islands and
peninsulas are to be found slate and sandstone, which, though soft and
friable in some places where it has been exposed on the surface, will be
found suitable for building purposes.
The aggregate shore-line of this sound, and the adjacent part of Admiralty
Inlet, with Colvos Passage, to the North end of Vashon Island, is not less
than 370 miles. Upon its shores are situated the settlements of Steilacoom,
Nisqually, Olympia, and Newmarket.
Steilacoom. On the eastern shore of Puget Sound, 9 miles South of point
Defiance, is situated the town or village of Steilacoom, upon a rising bluff.
It consists of only a few houses. Fort Steilacoom stands about a mile in-
NISQUALLY-OLYMPIA.
263
land, upon a piece of gravelly prairie, and roads lead from it to the town
and the creek.
The usual anchorage is off the small wharf, in 15 fathoms, hard bottom,
and about 400 or 500 yards from the shore. An island lying 24 miles west-
ward of that position is called McNeil, and between it and Fox (Rosario)
Island, to the northward, there is a passage 1 mile wide
The passage on
the South side of McNeil Island, between it and Anderson Island, is gene-
rally known as Balch Passage. It bears about S.W. by W. from the an-
chorage, and is marked by a small wooded islet in it, called Eagle Island,
off which lies rocky bottom, and vessels keep closer to the North shore.
This passage is the direct channel to Olympia, instead of following the broad
one southward of Steilacoom.
When approaching Steilacoom, or bound direct for Olympia, a patch of
kelp, with foul bottom and less than 3 fathoms of water upon it, must be
avoided. It bears S.S.E. 1 mile from the South end of Fox Island, and
N.W. by W. 12 mile from Steilacoom Wharf. The tide-rip upon it and
abreast of the town is very great; quite sufficient, with a little wind, to
swamp a small boat. The shores of the main and islands are bold, nearly
uniform in height, and covered with trees.
The corrected establishment of the port is 4h 46m. Spring tides rise 11.1
feet, and neap tides 7.2 feet.
Nisqually, 5 miles South of Steilacoom, and on the same side of the sound,
is at present a place of no trade or importance. It was one of the early
posts of the Hudson Bay Company, and is still occupied by them. An ex-
tensive mud-flat exists off the mouth of the wide, marshy valley, but the
depth of water is very great close to it, and the anchorage room very much
contracted. The river Nisqually empties here, and there are two small saw-
mills upon it.
Olympia. It would be almost useless to attempt to describe the route to
Olympia from Steilacoom, as a pilot or a good chart is absolutely necessary
in making the passage. The mid-channel course is 21 miles in length, and
its width from half to 1½ mile.
Olympia is situated at the head of Budd Inlet, which is 6 miles long and
three-quarters of a mile wide, and runs nearly South. The shores are steep
and wooded, and the head of the bay an immense mud-flat, behind which is
the town. It acquires prospective importance by being the capital of the
territory, but especially on account of its proximity to the Columbia River
valley, and to the headwaters of the Chehalis. Vessels are brought up to
the wharf at the highest tides, and then rest in the mud until ready to
leave.
The greatest difference between the highest and lowest tides is reported
to be about 24 feet, and is doubtless more than this when we compare its
264
HOOD'S CANAL.
position with that of Steilacoom. The approximate corrected establishment
is 5h 8m.
The approximate geographical position of the wharf is, lat. 47° 3′, long.
122° 55'.
HOOD'S CANAL.-The entrance to this arm of Admiralty Inlet lies be-
tween Basalt Point and Foulweather Bluff, the latter bearing E. 2 S., distant
3 miles from the former. The first mid-channel course is S.E. for 4 miles,
pointing directly into Port Gamble, at the entrance to which the houses and
mill are plainly visible; and passing a high, round, wooded peninsula on
the West side of the channel, and connected to the main by a narrow neck
of low sand beach. This is frequently mistaken for an island, and is called
Hood's Head. Between this head and Port Gamble the canal changes its
course, and runs in nearly a straight line S. by W. 40 miles, with an average
width of 1½ mile. In lat. 47° 21′ N. it makes an abrupt turn, and runs for
12 or 13 miles about N.E.
Port Ludlow.-Close to Basalt Point lie some rocks, with others about
half a mile S.E., called the Colvos Rocks, among which is one 25 feet high,
but of small extent. Close inshore, and abreast of this, is a rock just awash
at high tide, but between the two runs a channel with 15 fathoms water,
having soft muddy bottom. The bright bluff head, 14 mile S.E. of the
Colvos Rocks, and about 2 miles S.W. by W. from Foulweather Bluff, is
Tala Point. Halfway between the Colvos Rocks and this point is the usual
entrance, over a sand-bar having 4 fathoms.
Of all the small harbours in these waters this has the preference, as it is
completely land-locked, and protected from gales from every quarter by the
high land and high trees around it. The first steamboat built in these waters
was launched here in 1860.
Port Gamble.-After passing Foulweather Bluff, keep closer to the eastern
shore than to the western, to avoid the strong current passing round the low
point which makes out from Hood's Head. Run for the saw-mill, plainly
in sight, on the western side of the entrance to the bay, and when within a
mile of it approach the eastern bluff within one-third of a mile, in about 10
or 15 fathoms, gradually drawing closer inshore, and passing between the
outer white and inner black can buoys. At the lowest tides the white one is
in 15 feet, the black in 123, and the small spar buoy between them in mid-
channel in 17 feet, but it rarely shows above water at any tide. After pass-
ing these buoys the mill bears almost S.S.E. half a mile distant. Steer S.E.
or halfway between the mill-wharf and the East point, pass to the East of
the white spar buoy, which is in 12 feet, and run through the entrance,
passing the wharf at about one-third of the distance between the points. Do
not round up to the eastward, as a shoal makes out almost parallel with
the point. It may be here noticed that these buoys were made and placed
by the Puget Mill Company, for the benefit of vessels trading to the port.
POSSESSION SOUND.
265
If the wind be ahead while beating up, it will be impossible for a large
vessel to get in, as the channel is half a mile long, and not over 100 yards
wide at the narrowest part. Anchor off the buoys, and drop in with the
early flood, or warp in with the last of the ebb. On the shoal forming the
western side of the passage 10 feet may be found until up with the white
spar buoy.
At about 3 miles from Hood's Head, on the western side of the canal, is
Suquamish Harbour. A large sand-bank occupies its centre, and extends a
mile in length N.N.W., by half a mile in width. The approaches to the
shoal, which is in part bare, are detected in thick weather by the lead, the
soundings decreasing regularly from 20 fathoms. Keep, however, close
under the northern shore, which runs 2 miles W.S.W. from the low point
called Termination Point.
At 14 miles from Hood's Head the canal curves more to the southward,
and then to the S.S.W. around Hazel Point, on the West side of which a
large arm of the canal makes North for 10 miles, bifurcating near its head.
On its western side the eastern spurs of the Olympus range reach its waters,
and form the western shore-line of the canal to the great bend. The sharp
peak named Mount Constance attains an elevation of 7,777 feet.
At 2 miles South of Hazel Point, and on the eastern side of the canal, is
a fine harbour, formerly called Hahainish Harbour, but the name has been
changed by settlers, who have lately built a small saw-mill there. It is
formed by Seabock Island on the West, and is about a mile long by half a
mile wide, with good bottom in from 10 to 15 fathoms.
POSSESSION SOUND may be considered as the southern entrance to the
channel, separating Whidbey Island from the main land. Its eastern shore
is compact, forming a deep bay, into which the Sinahomis River falls.
Seven miles within the entrance from the South is a high round island.
It was observed by Vancouver that the tide or current constantly set out-
wards here.
At 2 miles N.W. from this round island is Point Alan, the South extremity
of Caamano Island, which lies between Whidbey Island and the main. Point
Alan is the end of a high, narrow strip of land, which separates Port Susan
on the East from Port Gardner on the West of Caamano Island. Port Susan
extends about 11 miles north-westward, and is terminated by a line of kelp
fronting a tract of swampy land, through which a rivulet extends which
forms the island to the West. The land farther back is more elevated, and
covered with a growth of timber similar to that in other parts. It was in the
upper part of this inlet that Vancouver's ship, the Chatham, ran aground, but
was soon got off.
Eastward of Alan Point, on the main land, is a small bay, before which
Vancouver anchored. There were two excellent streams flowing into it, but
266
JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT.
they were so nearly on a level with the sea, that it became necessary to pro-
cure the water at low tide, or at some distance up the brook, which
latter was easily effected, as the boats were admitted to where the fresh
water fell from the elevated land. They also took some fish with the
seine.
Port Gardner (so named by Vancouver after Vice-Admiral Sir Alan
Gardner) is the western arm of the continuation of Possession Sound, its
western shore being formed by Whidbey Island. This shore was found by
Vancouver to be well peopled by Indians, who were very friendly. At about
14 miles from Point Alan the branch which runs thus far about N.N.W.
assumes the directions of about W. and N.E.
Penn's Cove is the termination of the western branch, and is a very com-
modious and excellent harbour, with regular soundings from 10 to 20 fa-
thoms, good holding ground. Its western extent, in lat. 48° 14′ (according
to the United States' Survey) is not more than a league from the eastern
shore of the main inlet within the strait. On each point of the harbour Van-
couver found a deserted village, in one of which were several sepulchres,
formed exactly like a sentry-box.
The main channel to the N.E. leads to a branch whose general direction
is N.W. From the eastern shore of this branch a shallow flat of sand, on
which are some rocky islets and rocks, runs out until within half a mile of
the western shore, forming a narrow channel, navigable for about 3 leagues.
The depth in its entrance is about 20 fathoms, but gradually decreases to 4
fathoms in advancing northward, and the sand-bank, continuing with great
regularity, makes it about half a mile wide to lat. 48° 24′, where it ceases
to be navigable for vessels of any burden, in consequence of the rocks and
overfalls, from 3 to 20 fathoms deep, and a very irregular and disagreeable
tide.
In the bay just to westward of the South entrance point of Possession
Sound, that is, of Whidbey Island, there is a shoal lying a little distance
from the shore; it shows itself above water, and is discoverable by the sound-
ings gradually decreasing to 10, 7, and 5 fathoms, and cannot be considered
as any material impediment to the navigation of the bay.
WHIDBEY ISLAND is well fitted for settlement and cultivation. The
soil is good, the timber excellent, and there are several open plains, which
have been prepared by nature for the plough. It is about 33 miles in length
of irregular figure and breadth.
Admiralty Head, with its Lighthouse, have been before described.
The West coast of Whidbey Island continues in an irregular N.W. direc-
tion to Partridge Point, which forms the N.E. point of the entrance of
Admiralty Inlet.
It is formed by a high, white sandy cliff, having one
DECEPTION PASSAGE-ROSARIO STRAIT.
267
of the verdant lawns on either side of it. According to the survey by
the United States' Exploring Expedition, it is in lat. 48° 12' 30" N., long.
122° 45′ W.
66
Passing at the distance of about a mile from this point, we very sud-
denly came on a small space of 10 fathoms water, but immediately again
increased our depth to 20 and 30 fathoms. After advancing a few miles
along the eastern shore of the gulf, we found no effect from either the ebb or
flood tide."
Smith, Blunt, or Bonilla Island, lies 62 miles N.W. of Partridge Point, and 5
from the nearest land. It is low and sandy, forming at its W. end a low cliff,
above which some dwarf trees are produced. Some rocks lie on its western
side, nearly three-quarters of a mile of its shores, and its eastern part is
formed by a very narrow low spit of land, over which the tide nearly flows.
From this the remarkably lofty and snowy peak of Mount Baker bears N.
63° E., and that of Mount Rainier S. 27° E. Two other very lofty round
snowy mountains are also seen to the southward of these. They appear to
be covered with perpetual snow, as low down as they can be seen, and seem
as if they rise from an extensive plain of low country.
The Lighthouse on its western summit, showing a revolving light every half
minute, is alluded to hereafter.
Deception Passage, which runs into Port Gardner, to the North of Whid-
bey Island, is a very narrow and intricate channel, which, for a considerable
distance, is not 40 yards in width, and abounds with rocks above and
beneath the surface of the water. These impediments, in addition to the
great rapidity and irregularity of the tide, render the passage navigable
only for boats or steam-vessels of small burden, and well acquainted.
To the northward of this the Strait of Juan de Fuca is limited by a col-
lection of islands which separates it from that explored by Vancouver, and
named by him the Gulf of Georgia. The North side of Deception Passage
has proved to be in reality an island by the United States' Exploring Expe-
dition, and named Fidalgo Island, separated from the main land on the East
by a tract of low land, intersected by a narrow stream.
The country
here assumes a very different aspect from that seen to the southward.
The shores are here composed of steep rugged rocks, whose surface va-
ries exceedingly as to height, and exhibits little more than the barren rock,
which in some places produces some herbage of a dull colour, with some few
dwarf trees.
Rosario Strait forms the connection between the Strait of De Fuca and
the Gulf of Georgia, running northward between Fidalgo Island and that
next westward, named Lopez Island. It will be described more particularly
hereafter. Off the S.E. point of Lopez Island, which is the entrance of this
268
JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT.
strait, and which is low and rocky, there is a very dangerous sunken rock
visible only at low tide; and 2 miles to the northward is a very unsafe
cluster of small rocks, some constantly and others visible only near low
water. The strait varies from 5 to 3 miles in width. On its eastern side,
that is, against Fidalgo Island, are Alan and Burrows's Islands, off the South
end of which are some detached rocks.
Cypress Island lies in front of the opening, some 7 miles within it. It is
4 miles in length, and on its western side is Strawberry Bay, so named by
Vancouver from the great quantity of very excellent strawberries found there
when Mr. Broughton first visited it.
This bay is situated on the West side of the island, which, producing an
abundance of upright cypress, obtained the name of Cypress Island. The
bay is of small extent, and not very deep. When at anchor in 16 fathoms,
fine sandy bottom, its South point bears S.E. S., a small islet forming
nearly the North point of the bay, round which is a clear good passage
West; and the bottom of the bay East, at the distance of about three-quarters
of a mile. This situation, though very commodious in respect to the shore,
is greatly exposed to the winds and sea in a S.S.E. direction. In fair weather
wood and water may be easily procured.
Rock Islet is a small round islet covered with trees, lying nearly 2 cables
northward of the North end of Cypress Island. There is a passage of 9
fathoms between it and Cypress Island. Cypress Reef, lying W. S. from
Rock Islet, is a dangerous rocky patch with kelp growing about it, covering at
half flood.
Sinclair Island, thickly wooded, and comparatively low, lies to the north-
eastward of Cypress Island, with a deep passage, of nearly a mile in breadth
between them, leading to Bellingham Channel. An extensive and dangerous.
shoal, the Panama Reef, extends nearly half a mile in a W.N.W. direction off
its N.W. extreme, some parts of it uncovering at half-tide; a large boulder
stands on the inner part of the reef.
Guemes Island lies to the eastward of Cypress Island and North of Fidalgo
Island, and to the eastward of these the main land forms Padilla Bay.
Bellingham Bay is separated from Padilla Bay to the South by a long,
narrow peninsula, of which William Point is the West extreme. There are
a number of channels leading into it through the cluster of islands before
alluded to; and the bay itself extends about 12 miles North and South. It
everywhere affords good and secure anchorage. Opposite to its North point
of entrance the shores are high and rocky, with some detached rocks lying off
it. Here is a brook of most excellent water.
these rocky cliffs the shores are less elevated,
where some beautiful verdant lawns are seen.
To the North and South of
especially to the northward,
The land generally is incon-
LUMMI ISLAND, ETC.
269:
venient for communicating with, on account of a shallow flat of sand or mud
which extends a considerable distance off the land.
In the Spanish survey this bay appears in two portions, the northernmost
being named Gaston Bay. This part is separated from the gulf by a long,
narrow peninsula, terminating in Point Francis ; an inlet lying in the middle
of the bay is called Puerto del Socorro, and the southern part of the bay is
called Padilla Bay, an appellation confined in the recent charts to that still
farther South. Coal, or rather lignite, has been found and worked in the
sandstone beds in Bellingham Bay.
Lummi Island, off the N.W. point of Bellingham Bay, is 8 miles long,
and very narrow. On its south-western side it is high and precipitous, a
remarkable double mountain rising about 1,400 feet abruptly from the sea.
There are no dangers off its western side.
Whitehorn Point is a remarkable bold bluff, about 150 feet high, its face
showing as a steep white clay cliff. It is the southern point of Birch Bay,
and is 9 miles N.W. of the North point of Lummi Island, and N.E. by N.
distant 10 miles from the entrance of the Strait of Georgia, between East
Point and Patos Island.
Birch Bay is between Whitehorn Point and South Bluff; the latter,
which is a moderately high rounding point, forms the North entrance point
of the bay. Some large boulder stones stand a short distance off it, and
should not be rounded at a less distance than half a mile. The bay runs in
a N.E. direction for more than 2 miles.
The holding ground is good, and with S.E. gales it affords excellent
shelter. A good berth is with Whitehorn Point bearing South, distant a
mile, in 4 fathoms.
Semiahmoo or Boundary Bay is an extensive sheet of water between the
promontory of Roberts Point on the West, and South Bluff on the East,
which bear West by South and East by North of each other, and are distant
8 miles. The bay extends in a northerly direction for nearly 7 miles, and is
only separated from the South bank of Fraser River by a low delta 3 miles
across, intersected by streams and swamps. All its upper part is shallow,
and dries off for 3 miles at low water.
Vessels should never stand so far to the northward as to bring the white
bluff of Roberts Point to bear to the southward of S.W. by W., which line
of bearing leads more than half a mile outside the shoal edge of the bank;
the general depth of water outside this line is from 7 to 15 fathoms good
holding ground.
The boundary between the Washington Territory and British Columbia is
marked on the shore, and also along the parallel of 49° by iron beacons or
pillars set up by Capt. Richards, in July, 1861.
270
JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT.
Drayton Harbour, at 3 miles N. by E. of South Bluff, is formed by a
remarkable low narrow spit, over a mile long, which is the termination of
the bluff itself. The Spit is covered with grass and drift timber, and a few
pine trees grow on it. Several wooden buildings were erected on it in 1858,
and received the name of Semiahmoo city.
There are 5 fathoms water in the entrance, but the channel is narrow, and
no vessel unacquainted with the locality can enter unless by placing boats or
poles on the edges of the shoals.
The northern shore of Juan de Fuca Strait will be described in the next
Chapter.
(271)
CHAPTER VI.
VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC.
PRIOR to 1789 the outer coast of this island was supposed to be that
of the American continent, but in that year its insular character was es-
tablished.
The first intimation in Europe of the existence of the channel which sepa-
rates Vancouver Island from the continent was in the observations prefixed
by Captain Meares to the Narrative of his Voyages. In the chart accompa-
nying that work there is a sketch of the track of the American sloop Wash-
ington, in the autumn of 1789, which is that through the inland navigation
presently described. The name of the commander is not given; but it was
naturally supposed that Captain Gray, of the Columbia, previously mentioned,
was the person. In the angry discussion which ensued between Meares and
Dixon relative to the remarks of the former, it is stated that Mr. Kendrick
was the commander of the Washington, who perhaps took it after it had been
quitted by Gray. Therefore Kendrick,* in the sloop Washington, must be
taken as the person who really made known the real character of the terri-
tory in question, after the formerly discredited voyage of its discoverer, De
Fuca, in 1592.
Vancouver reached the coast in March, 1792, and after navigating through
the strait to the eastward, he applied the names Quadra and Vancouver
Island to it; the first name in compliment to the Spanish commandant at
Nootka Sound, from whom he received much politeness during the negocia-
tions relative to the restoration of the tract of country claimed by Great
Britain, as mentioned hereafter. Lately, however, the first name has been
dropped, and that of the surveyor only retained for it, which is certainly
* Kendrick never returned to Europe. He was killed in 1793, in Karakakooa Bay,
by a ball accidentally fired from a British vessel while saluting him.
272
VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC.
preferable, as the Spanish governor took no part in its geographical ad-
vancement.
It remained in the same state, untenanted by Europeans during many
subsequent years, until later events gave it a new existence. It was only
visited, at regular intervals, on its north-eastern side, by the officers and
agents of the Hudson's Bay Company for the trade in furs and other com-
modities collected by the natives, and at Nootka Sound, on its S.W. side, for
refreshments, &c., by the vessels in the North Pacific.
When, however, the treaty which severed the Oregon and Washington
Territories from Great Britain, and the thriving settlements established
therein by the Hudson's Bay Company became surrounded by a foreign
power and interest, Vancouver Island assumed a fresh importance to English
commerce.
The British crown granted the dominion of Vancouver Island to the Hud-
son's Bay Company by letters patent under the great seal, and dated Jan.
13th, 1849, which gave the absolute lordship and proprietorship of the
whole island, with its mines, &c., to the Hudson's Bay Company, at the
yearly rent of seven shillings.
In the course of time several difficulties and questions arose between the
British Government and the Hudson's Bay Company, relative chiefly to the
lands occupied by the latter prior to 1849, and it was deemed advisable that
the government should regain the possession of the island, reserving to the
Company and those to whom they had disposed of the land all previous rights,
and thus, by mutual agreement, it reverted to the Crown on February 3rd,
1862. In 1861 the upset price of country land was fixed at 4s. 2d. per acre,
a measure which gave great satisfaction in the colony.
The prosperity of the island did not advance as was anticipated, and the
superior attractions of the gold-fields of British Columbia no doubt tended
to add to the depression felt, especially in 1866. A further anomaly existed
in the different policy maintained in these two adjacent young colonies, and,
after much strong feeling on both sides, the two colonies were united, or
rather Vancouver Island was attached to British Columbia by Act of Par-
liament, 1866, a measure proclaimed in Victoria, its capital, on Nov. 19th
in that year. The question of the future capital of the united colonies was
then mooted, and the decision was arrived at that New Westminster, pro-
claimed the capital of British Columbia February 14, 1859, must give way
to the superior advances and general commercial interest which belonged to
Victoria. This town was proclaimed as the capital on May 25, 1868.
In the subsequent description we commence with the Haro Archipelago,
which lies to the S.E. of Vancouver Island, between it and the Washington
Territory of the United States. This congeries of islands and channels, so
little known and so little valued at the time, has been the subject of very
THE HARO ARCHIPELAGO.
273
serious controversy and complication between the two nations, the United
States and Great Britain, threatening at one time to involve them in a war.
At the time of the treaty which separated Oregon from Great Britain, the
charts showed only two channels, the eastern one, that of Rosario, being
the only one used, and the other marked on the old Spanish maps as the
Canal de Haro, but almost unknown and quite unused.
The vague wording of the treaty of 1844 said that "the channel" should
be the separation between the two territories, meaning, as is maintained,
the Canal de Rosario. But the United States Government, as soon as the
country became valuable, insisted that the Haro Channel was "the Chan-
nel," and thus claiming the Island of San Juan as included in their terri-
tory. This island is the only one worth having for colonization, as it
commands all the channels leading to the country of British Columbia, as
well as the harbour of Victoria, from which it is distant only 5 or 6 miles.
In order to adjust these rival claims, Capt. G. H. Richards, R.N., the pre-
sent chief hydrographer, arrived here in Nov., 1859, in H.M.S. Plumper, for
the purpose of making a detailed survey, and fixing the boundary on the
parallel of 49° N. The results of this exhaustive examination showed that,
instead of one or two channels, there are three principal passages through
the archipelago, and with very numerous ramifications from each. As the
matters stand, the western channel is claimed by the United States, the
eastern channel by Great Britain, and, as a compromise, the middle channel
has been proposed as a boundary. In the mean time the Island of San
Juan has been occupied by two small bodies of troops, 100 of each nation, till
the matter is finally adjusted. It would be out of place here to pursue the
political question. This is very ably handled by Lord Milton, in his work,*
which will give a full insight into the whole subject, elucidated as it is by
the noble author's intimate personal acquaintance with the region and the
topics relating to it.
THE HARO ARCHIPELAGO.
The HARO ARCHIPELAGO lies in the space separating Vancouver Island
from the continent, the distance between them being about 20 miles, and
the islands covering a space of about 400 square miles in area.
There are
three more important islands, San Juan, the westernmost and best, Orcas,
the northernmost and largest, and Lopez the easternmost. There are about
thirty minor islands and innumerable rocks, mere masses of trap rock covered
with pines.
The subsequent description taken, with some abridgements, from the Van-
couver Island Pilot, drawn up by Captain G. H. Richards in 1864, commences
with the south-easternmost portion, as following in geographical order the
previous descriptions.
* History of the San Juan Water Boundary Question, by Viscount Milton, M.P., London,
January, 1870.
North Pacific,
T
( 274 )
ROSARIO STRAIT.
ROSARIO STRAIT is the easternmost and one of the principal channels
leading from the strait of Fuca into that of Georgia. Its southern entrance
lies between Lopez and Fidalgo Islands, before described, and from thence
its general direction is from N.N.W. to N.W. for 25 miles, when it enters
the latter strait.
Like Haro Strait, the Rosario has several smaller channels which branch
off to the eastward, and lead between islands to the United States settlements
in Bellingham Bay, or by a more circuitous route into the Strait of Georgia
itself. It varies in breadth of the strait from 5 miles; the narrowest to
something less than 1 mile; the depth varies from 25 to 45 fathoms, occa-
sionally deeper.
The tides are strong, from 3 to 7 knots in the narrower parts. The prin-
cipal dangers are the Bird and Belle Rocks, which lie almost in the centre of
the strait, 4 miles within the southern entrance. There are several anchor-
ages available for vessels delayed by the tides or other causes. The ebb tide
here, as in the narrower straits, runs from 2 to 24 hours after low water.
Light. On the summit of Smith or Blunt Island, near the West end, is a
lighthouse painted white, with a red lantern, which shows at an elevation of
90 feet above the sea a white light, which revolves every half minute, and is
visible at 15 miles.
Having made Smith Island, which vessels bound from sea up Rosario
Channel should do on about a N.E. E. bearing, it may be passed on either
side. When Dungeness light bears S. by W. keep it so, steering N. by E.,
which leads midway between Smith Island and an extensive kelp patch
lying W. S. 84 miles from it, on which the least water yet found is 31
fathoms. When to the northward of the patch, a course may be steered for
the entrance of the strait, which, however, should not be entered at night.
If passing to the southward of Smith Island, avoid two kelp patches of 5
fathoms least water nearly 3 miles S.S.E. from the light, and 4 miles W. by
N. from Partridge Point, a remarkable white faced cliff on the main. Vessels
from the southern parts of Vancouver Island, bound up Rosario Strait, should
of course pass northward of Smith Island.
CAPE COLVILLE, the south-eastern extreme of Lopez Island, is the
western entrance point of Rosario Strait. Walmouth Hill, flat-topped, and
about 500 feet high, rises immediately over it. Colville Island, small, and
bare of trees, about 40 feet high, lies southward of the cape, distant half
a mile. Entering the strait, Colville Island should be given a berth of
a mile.
Davidson Rock, with 2 feet on it at low water, and occasionally uncover-
ing at low springs, lies East a little more than 3 cables from the East end of
BIRD ROCK-THE PEAPODS.
275
Colville Island, and South nearly a mile from the cape itself. Kelp grows
about the rock, but the patch is so small that it is difficult to make out.
Kellett Island is a small flat-topped islet, covered with grass, and lying im-
mediately northward, and close off the low extreme of Cape Colville. Cape
St. Mary, the next point northward of Cape Colville, and a little more than
a mile from it, forms the southern point of Davis Bay. Hulah Rocks, or Kel-
lett Ledge, with one fathom water on them, and marked by kelp, lie 3 cables
N.E. by N. of Cape St. Mary. There is a deep passage between them and
the cape. Vessels passing outside them should give the cape a berth of a
long half mile.
Davis Bay affords good and convenient anchorage in a moderate depth of
water. After rounding the Hulah Rocks, a vessel may stand to the west-
ward into the bay, and anchor in 6 fathoms mud, little more than half a mile
from the shore. A kelp patch, on which there is shoal water, lies N. by W.
a mile from the cape. There is anchorage in from 4 to 8 fathoms anywhere
within a mile of the East shore of Lopez and Decatur Islands.
Bird Rock, lying almost in the centre of Rosario Strait, is composed of
three detached rocks close together, the southernmost being the largest, and
20 feet above high water. From Cape Colville it bears N. E. nearly 4
miles, and from the South end of James Island, S.E. by S. 1½ mile. There
is deep water close to it, but on account of the strength of the tides, sailing
vessels working up or down, particularly during light winds, are recom-
mended to give it a berth of half a mile.
Belle Rock is the most serious danger in the Rosario Strait, because it
only uncovers near low water, and the tides run over it from 2 to 5 knots.
It lies N. by E. 2 E. distant 6 cables from the Bird Rock, and the passage
between the two rocks carries from 8 to 20 fathoms, but vessels are recom-
mended not to take it except in cases of necessity, on account of the tides.
The Belle Rock is easily avoided by day. The great danger of the Belle
Rock to a sailing vessel is being left with a light wind in the centre of the
strait, as the water is too deep with much prospect of an anchor holding in
so strong a tideway.
James Island, almost divided in the centre, is a remarkable saddle island,
with two summits, lying close off the East side of Decatur Island. There are
no dangers on its off or eastern side.
White and Black Rocks are three-quarters of a mile apart, and lie off the
S.E. shore of Blakely Island. White Rock, the southernmost, is 6 or 8 feet
above high water, and a little more than a quarter of a mile from the shore
at the eastern entrance of Thatcher Passage (page 283). Black Rock, just
awash at high springs, lies N.E. by N. from White Rock, and half a mile
from Blakely Island. There is a deep channel between these rocks, as also
between them and Blakely Island.
The Peapods are two small rocky islets, bare of trees, lying half a mile
T 2
276
ROSARIO STRAIT.
from the western shore of Rosario Strait, and 1 mile southward of Law-
rence Point, the East extreme of Orcas Island. They are three-quarters of
a mile apart in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, the northernmost being the
largest and highest. A little to the westward of a line drawn between them
is a third rock which just covers at high water. There are no dangers about
them which are not visible.
ORCAS ISLAND is the most extensive of the group known as the Haro
Archipelago, and contains the finest harbours. It is mountainous and in
most parts thickly wooded, although in the valleys there is a considerable
portion of land available for agricultural purposes, and partially clear of
timber. Its southern side is singularly indented by deep sounds, which in
some places almost divide the island. This is particularly the case in the
East Sound, separated only from the waters of the Strait of Georgia by a
low neck of land a mile across. On the eastern side of this sound,
Mount Constitution rises to an elevation of nearly 2,500 feet, wooded to its
summit.
The eastern side of Orcas Island, between the Peapod Islets and Obstruc-
tion Pass, falls back in a bight, where there is considerably less tide than in
the main stream of the strait, and if necessary a vessel may drop her anchor
within half a mile of the shore in about 16 fathoms.
Lawrence Point, the eastern extreme of Orcas, is a long sloping point, the
termination of the ridge of Mount Constitution. Immediately on its North
side it rises abruptly in high, almost perpendicular cliffs, and trends to the
westward, falling back for 3 miles in a somewhat deep bight, which is rocky,
has deep water, and is unsheltered.
Rosario Strait now lies between Orcas and Lummi Islands, the direct
channel being along the western shore of the latter in a N.W. W. direction.
Anchorage may be had, if necessary, within a mile of the shore in 15 fathoms,
between Sandy and Whitehorn Points, northward of Lummi Island. This
last island has been before described.
Tides. After passing northward of Lawrence Point, the ebb tide will be
found to set to the eastward between Orcas and the small islands to the
northward of it, as well as to the S.E. through the northern entrance of the
strait. When as high as Alden Bank, or about 8 miles above Lawrence
Point, the strength of the tides sensibly decreases, and while a vessel is
eastward of a line between this bank and Roberts Point, she will be entirely
out of the strong tides of the Archipelago and the Strait of Georgia. It is
recommended with the ebb tide to work up on this shore.
Clark and Barnes Islands are two small wooded islands, 2 miles N.W.
of Lawrence Point. Two smaller islets, The Sisters, bare of trees, and a
high rock lie immediately S.E. of Clark Island. There is a passage 1½ mile
in breadth between these islands and Orcas with a depth of 45 fathoms.
THE MIDDLE CHANNEL.
277
The tides set strong about the Sisters, and the best and most direct channel
is between Clark and Lummi Island.
Matia Island, 3 miles W.N.W. from Clark Island, and a mile eastward
of Sucia Island (which is 2 miles off the North side of Orcas Island), is a
mile in length, East and West, moderately high and wooded. Close off its
East point is Puffin Islet, and extending a short distance eastward of the
islet is a flat covering rock. Vessels bound through Rosario Strait are re-
commended to pass eastward of Matia.
ALDEN BANK, 2 miles in extent North and South, and one mile East
and West, lies in the centre of the northern entrance of Rosario Strait. Its
southern limit is 2 miles North of Matia Island, and there is a channel 3
miles in breadth between it and the eastern shore.
The depth of water on this bank varies from 3 to 7 fathoms, and in one
spot so little as 14 feet is found; the bottom is in some parts rocky, with
patches of kelp growing on it; in other parts it is sandy, and offers a con-
venient anchorage for vessels becalmed or waiting for tide.
Vessels passing up or down are recommended to pass on the eastern side
of the bank.
THE MIDDLE CHANNEL.
The MIDDLE CHANNEL is the centre of the three passages leading from
the Strait of Juan de Fuca into that of Georgia, and is bounded by San
Juan Island on the West, and the islands of Lopez, Shaw, and Orcas on the
East. Although a deep navigable ship channel, and eligible for steamers of
the largest size, the southern entrance is somewhat confined, and subject to
strong tides, with a general absence of steady winds; the wide straits of
Rosario and Haro, on either side of it, are therefore far to be preferred for
sailing vessels above the size of coasters.
The general direction of the channel is N.N.W. for 5 miles, when it trends
to the W.N.W. for 7 miles to its junction with Douglas Channel. The
southern entrance lies between the S.E. point of San Juan and the S.W.
point of Lopez Island. In entering, the danger to be avoided on the western
side is the Salmon Bank, extending southerly from San Juan; and on the
eastern the Whale Rocks, always out of water. The tides in this entrance
run from 3 to 7 knots, with eddies and confused ripplings.
Salmon Bank extends 1½ mile South from Cattle Point, a bare point about
50 feet high, the sloping termination of Mount Finlayson, and the S.E. ex-
treme of San Juan Island; the least depth of water found on it is 10 feet,
with rocky patches, marked in summer by kelp.
Whale Rocks, on the eastern side of the entrance, are two black rocks a
cable's length apart, and 3 or 4 feet above high water. A patch, on which
kelp grows, with one fathom on it, extends 2 cables S.E. of them, otherwise
278
THE MIDDLE CHANNEL.
they are steep-to, but it is not recommended to pass them nearer than a
quarter of a mile, as the tides set strongly over them.
Directions.-In entering Middle Channel from the westward or southward,
Cattle Point should be given a berth of at least 1 mile. Mount Erie, a re-
markable summit on Fidalgo Island, 1,250 feet high, in line with Jennis
Point N.E. by E. Į E., leads 1 mile South of Salmon Bank in 13 fathoms ;
when the entrance of the channel is open, bearing N.N.W., or when Goose
Island, a small islet on the western side of the entrance, is in one with Turn
Island, and Orcas Nob bearing N.N.W. W., a vessel will be well to the
eastward of the bank, and may steer in for the passage. Orcas Nob is a re-
markable conical hill, with a bare stony summit, 1,100 feet above the sea,
rising over the West side of Orcas Island.
Griffin Bay is an extensive indentation on the eastern side of San Juan,
immediately within the southern entrance of Middle Channel. Although so
spacious, yet from the great depth of water there is but a limited portion of
the bay available for anchorage, and this is in the southern angle, imme-
diately off the remarkable prairie land between two forests of pine trees.
Half-tide Rock, just awash at high water, lies W. N., distant 1 mile
from Harbour Rock, and 4 cables' lengths from the western shore of the
bay. There is another rock, which only uncovers at or near low water,
lying S.E. S. 43 cables from Half-tide Rock, and N. W. a third of a mile
from the pier on the beach.
With all westerly or southerly winds, Griffin Bay affords good shelter;
but with those from North or N.E. it is considerably exposed. A stranger
should drop an anchor directly 12 fathoms is struck. North Bay, in the
N.W. angle of Griffin Bay, immediately under Park Hill, a bare grassy
eminence, about 180 feet high, affords good anchorage in 4 to 10 fathoms,
with all winds but those from S.E., to which it is somewhat exposed.
The greatest rise and fall at the southern entrance of Middle Chan-
nel, on full and change, is 12 feet; but little stream is felt at the an-
chorages.
Turn Island lies N.W. by N., nearly 5 miles from the South entrance of
the Middle Channel. Turn Rock lies nearly a quarter of a mile N.E. of the
island, and covers at three-quarters flood. The tide runs with great strength
over this rock, and vessels passing up or down the channel are recommended
to give it a good berth.
Friday Harbour is on the North side of the peninsula, immediately oppo-
site to North Bay; it is rather confined, but offers good anchorage, and is
easily accessible to steamers or small vessels. Brown Island lies in the
entrance, and there is a passage on either side of it. The passage in, west-
ward of Brown Island, is the widest and best, being 3 cables across. In
the centre of the entrance there is a rocky patch, with 3 fathoms at low
"
DOUGLAS CHANNEL.
279
water. Anchor with the passage between the island and main open, and the
West cliffy point of the former bearing N.E. in 9 fathoms.
Reid Rock. After rounding Turn Island, the Middle Channel trends to
the westward, and Reid Rock lies right in the fairway, the least water on it is
12 ft., and it is surrounded by thick kelp, which, however, is sometimes run
under by the tide. The rock bears from the North point of Turn Island
W.N.W. 1 1-10th mile, and from the N.W. cliff point of Brown Island
N.N.E. E. three-quarters of a mile. There is a clear deep channel on
either side of it. After passing Reid Rock, there are no dangers which are
not visible.
4
On its eastern side are the group known as the Wasp Islands, between and
among which are several passages leading between Shaw and Orcas Islands,
and communicating with the magnificent harbours and sounds which deeply
indent the southern coasts of the latter.
On the western side of Middle Channel, 4 miles from Caution Point, is
Rocky Bay, with the small island of O'Neal lying in the centre of it. The
bottom is rocky, and as the bay does not afford much shelter, vessels are not
recommended to use it unless in case of necessity.
Jones Island lies in the northern entrance of the channel, on the eastern
side, nearly half a mile from Orcas, being separated from the latter island by
Spring Passage. The island is generally wooded, but its western points are
bare and grassy.
Spring Passage, between Jones Island and the West side of Orcas Island,
is a safe deep water channel, and saves some distance to a steamer passing
up or down Middle Channel, by the Douglas Channel. Some rocky patches
extend a cable off the south-eastern side of Jones Island; and a rock which
covers at 2 feet flood lies the same distance North of a small cove on the N.E.
side of the island; so it is desirable to pass through in mid-channel; the
western side of Orcas Island has, however, no dangers off it.
Flat-top Island is in the northern entrance of Middle Channel, N.W. by
W. 2 miles from Jones Island; it is a third of a mile in length, wooded,
and about 100 feet high. Off its western side, distant 2 cables, is a rock
nearly a cable in extent and 15 feet above high water.
DOUGLAS CHANNEL may be said to be the continuation of Middle
Channel, and leads into Haro Strait, between Orcas and Waldron Islands.
There are other passages leading into the Haro, viz., westward of Flat-top
Island, between it and Spieden and Suart Islands; and eastward of Flattop,
between it and Waldron Island. In the former the confused tides and eddies
are liable to entangle a sailing vessel among Spieden and the neighbouring
groups of small islands and rocks; in the latter, the White Rock, with its off-
lying dangers, offers serious impediments to the safe navigation of the same
class of vessels.
Both shores of the channel are free from danger. If necessary, vessels
280
THE MIDDLE CHANNEL.
will find a stopping place in the bay southward of the Bill of Orcas in 12
fathoms.
The channel eastward of Flattop Island, between it and White Rock, is
about the same breadth as the one to the West of it, but the Danger Rock,
with 5 feet on it, which lies a quarter of a mile S.E. by E. from the centre of
White Rock, must be carefully avoided.
If passing between White Rock and Disney Point (the high stratified cliff
of Waldron Island), the latter should be kept well aboard if the ebb is run-
ning, or a stranger is liable to be set on the rock.
It should be observed that the ebb stream continues to run down through
the whole of the passages in the Archipelago, for two hours after it is low
water by the shore, and the water has begun to rise.
Patos Island, 1 miles long, lies 22 miles E.N.E. from the East point of
Saturna, on the South side of the Gulf of Georgia; the passage between
them being the widest, and at present most frequented, though not always
the best channel from Haro or Middle Channels into the Strait of Georgia.
Active Cove, at its western end, is formed by a small islet connected at low
water, and affords anchorage for one or two small vessels.
The passage into the Strait of Georgia between Patos and Sucia Islands,
although considerably narrower than the one just mentioned, is for several
reasons at times to be preferred, especially for vessels passing through Mid-
dle Channel, or for sailing vessels with a N.W. wind.
If intending to take the passage between Patos and Sucia, either up or
down, an excellent mark for clearing the Plumper and Clements Reefs, which
are dangerous patches lying southward and northward of Sucia, is to keep
the remarkable round summit of Stuart Island, 650 feet high, just open
westward of Skipjack Island, the westernmost wooded island North of Wal-
dron; this leads well clear of both the reefs, and the same course, N.E. N.,
continued, would cross Alden Bank in 5 fathoms.
3
If taking the passage from the Middle or Douglas Channels, keep the
white faced cliffs of Roberts Point well open westward of Patos Island, or
keep the West end of Patos Island on the starboard bow until the marks
before described are on, when steer through the passage. If the ebb stream
is running, it is better to keep the Patos Island shore aboard; 16 fathoms
will be found on the Sucia shore, but it is not recommended to anchor unless
positively necessary.
In standing to the north-eastward, when Clark Island is open of the
East end of Matia, or Puffin Islet, a vessel will be eastward of Clements
Reef.
SUCIA ISLAND is of a horse-shoe shape, remarkably indented on its
eastern side by bays and fissures, running in an East and West direction;
the largest of these, Sucia Harbour, affords fair anchorage. The island is
from 200 to 300 ft. high, thickly covered with pines, and its western side a
LOPEZ ISLAND.
281
series of steep wooded bluffs. The dangers lying off it are Plumper and
Clements Reefs; the former has 10 feet water on it, and lies S.W. by S. 14
mile from Lawson Bluff, the highest N.W. point of the island; N.N.W. 2}
miles from the Bill of Orcas, a remarkable bare knob point on the island
of that name; and S. by E. nearly 2 miles from the East point of Patos
Island. There is a deep passage between Plumper Reef and Sucia, but it is
not recommended.
Clements Reef has 9 feet on it, and lies N.E. N. 1 mile from Lawsen
Bluff; N.W. W. one mile from Ewing Island, the N.E. point of Sucia;
and E. & N., 2 miles from the East end of Patos. Some rocky patches
covering at high water, and marked by kelp, lie between Clements Reef and
Ewing Island, and it is not safe to pass between them. There is a deep
channel of more than a mile in breadth between Sucia and Matia, the island
to the eastward of it.
Parker Reef is a considerable patch lying in the passage between Sucia
and Orcas Islands, and at low water uncovers a quarter of a mile of rock
and sand; its eastern end always shows its rocky summit above water, and
bears from Nob Point or Orcas Bill N.E.E. 24 miles, and from the East
point of Sucia S. E. 1 mile. There is a passage on either side of the
reef; that to the southward, between it and Orcas, is half a mile wide, but
a stranger is recommended not to use it.
Matia Island, a little more than a mile eastward of Sucia, has been before
alluded to.
LOPEZ ISLAND.-We now return to the islands and passages on the
eastern side of Middle Channel. Lopez is the southernmost of the islands,
and helps to form the western side of Rosario Strait, as its does the eastern
of the Middle Channel. It is long, 9 miles North and South, 3 miles East
and West, and thickly wooded, but differs from all the other islands of the
Archipelago in being much lower and almost flat, except at its northern
and southern extremes, where elevations occur of a few hundred feet. Its
southern side is a good deal indented by bays and creeks, which, however,
from their exposed position and rocky nature, cannot be reckoned on as
anchorages. On its western side, in Middle Channel, is a creek terminating
in an extensive lagoon, the former offering great facilities for beaching and
repairing ships. On the North shore is Shoal Bay, affording anchorage;
and on the East is the spacious and excellent sound of Lopez, which has an
entrance from Middle Channel, as well as three distinct passages from
Rosario Strait.
McKaye Harbour is on the South coast of Lopez Island, 2 miles eastward
of the entrance to Middle Channel. It is entered between Jennis Point on
the South, and Long and Charles Islands on the North; from the latter it
runs easterly for a mile, and then trends to the southward for a short dis-
tance, terminating in a low sandy beach. In the entrance there are from 8
282
THE MIDDLE CHANNEL.
to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom, but with the prevailing south-westerly winds
the anchorage is a good deal exposed. Coasters or small vessels drawing 12
ft. may get shelter in the South bight; with northerly or easterly winds there
would be fair anchorage.
Shark Reef, on the western side of Lopez Island, immediately within
Middle Channel, and half a mile northward of White Cliff, consists of two
rocks generally awash, extending something more than a cable off shore,
and which must be avoided by vessels working up the channel. There are
no dangers on the coast of the island above this reef.
Careen Creek, on the West side of Lopez Island, is 4 miles within the
entrance of Middle Channel. The western entrance point is a low sandy
spit, close round which there are 3 fathoms, and on it a vessel might be
beached and repaired with much facility, and perfectly sheltered; the creek
terminates in a large salt lagoon.
Upright Channel, separating Lopez from Shaw Islands, is a deep steep
passage leading from the Middle Channel to the sounds of Orcas and Lopez,
and by several passages into Rosario Strait. The narrowest part of the
entrance is between Flat Point and Canoe Island. Here for a short distance
it is scarcely 2 cables in breadth. A rock lies a cable South of the South
point of Canoe Island, marked by kelp. The tides are not considerable
in the channel. At 12 mile from Flat Point on the South side of the chan-
nel is Upright Hill, the steep cliffy North extreme of Lopez Island. It is
covered with timber, and from 200 to 300 feet high.
Shoal Bay lies immediately eastward of Upright Hill, and runs in a
S.S.E. direction for a mile to its head, which is separated from False Bay in
Lopez Sound, by a low neck a cable's length across. Although apparently
a considerable sheet of water, the anchorage for large vessels is much
limited by a shoal which extends from just within the point of Upright
Hill towards the eastern point of the bay, and more than halfway across.
LOPEZ SOUND, on the eastern side of the island of that name, runs in
a S.S.E. direction for 73 miles, or nearly the whole length of the island, its
head reaching within half a mile of the waters of Fuca Strait. Its eastern
side is formed partly by Lopez and partly by Decatur and Blakely Islands,
lying parallel with it; and between these islands, as well as northward of
the latter, are passages leading into Rosario Strait. The average breadth
of the sound is nearly 1 mile, and there is a convenient depth of water for
anchorage in almost every part of it.
The sound may be entered from the westward through Middle and Up-
right Channels, and from the eastward by the Obstruction Passage, or by
Thatcher and Maury Passages.
Until as far South as Frost Island, which is nearly 2 miles within the
entrance of the sound, the general depth of water is from 20 to 30 fathoms.
Thatcher Passage, leading into Rosario Strait, between Blakely and Decatur
THATCHER AND OBSTRUCTION PASSAGES.
283
Islands, now opens out, and in proceeding up the sound the depth soon de-
creases to 9 fathoms, varying between that and 5 fathoms for a distance of
2½ miles, or as high as Houston Island. The only impediment between
Frost and Houston Islands is the Middle Bank, on which, however, there are
not less than 3 fathoms at low water. It is half a mile in extent North and
South, 2 cables East and West, and lies almost in the centre of the sound,
its North end bearing S.S.E. a quarter of a mile from the South end of
Frost Island, and S.W. by W. † W. 1½ mile from the North entrance point
of Thatcher Passage, or South point of Blakely Island.
Entrance Shoal, with 2 fathoms on it, and marked by kelp, must be
avoided by vessels working in. It lies E. by N. N. 1 mile from Upright
Point, and half a mile from the shore of Blakely Island; there is deep
water on either side of it.
False Bay is on the West side of the sound, a mile from Shoal Bay, their
heads being only separated by a low narrow neck, a cable's length across,
the cliffy extreme of the peninsula being Separation Point. It is unfit for
anchorage, except for small vessels. Half-tide Rock, covering at half-flood,
and not marked by kelp, is in the track of vessels entering. It lies S.E. by
E. E. three-quarters of a mile from Separation Point, and N.N.W. ₫ W. 4
cables from Arbutus Island. Frost Island lies close off Gravel Spit on the
West side of the sound. It is wooded, and its western side a steep cliff,
between which and the spit end there is a narrow channel of 5 fathoms.
The Black Islets are a ridge of steep rocky islets, lying within and across
the entrance of Maury Passage. At 2 cables S. by W. from the southern-
most of these islets is a rock which covers at quarter-flood. There is good
anchorage in 5 fathoms in the bight, westward of Crown Islet.
THATCHER PASSAGE, between Blakely and Decatur Islands, is the
widest and most convenient passage into Lopez Sound from Rosario Strait.
It is 1 mile in length, and its narrowest part 4 cables wide, with a general
depth of from 20 to 25 fathoms. Lawson Rock, lying almost in the centre of
the eastern entrance, is the only danger, and covers at 2 feet flood. There
is a good passage on either side of the rock; that to the southward is
the best.
MAURY PASSAGE, between Decatur Island and the N.E. point of
Lopez, is the southernmost entrance to the sound from Rosario Strait. It is
scarcely 2 cables wide at the entrance, with a depth of 12 fathoms. The
black islets lie across the western entrance, and it is necessary to keep to
the southward, between them and Lopez.
OBSTRUCTION PASSAGES.-Obstruction Island lies in the centre of the
channel, between the North point of Blakely and the S.E. point of Orcas
Island, and forms a safe and convenient communication on either side of it,
between the Middle Channel and Rosario Strait by Upright Channel; they
likewise lead from Rosario Strait to the sounds of Orcas and Lopez. The
284
THE MIDDLE CHANNEL.
passes are more adapted to steam than sailing navigation, although there
would be no difficulty to a sailing vessel with a leading wind and fair tides.
Small vessels would never find any difficulty by studying the tides.
North Obstruction Pass is about 1 mile long, and its average breadth 2
cables. There are no dangers which are not visible. The eastern entrance
bears from Cypress Cone, a remarkable bare peak on the North end of
Cypress Island, W.S.W.
South Obstruction Pass, though narrower than the North, is perhaps the
better channel of the two. It is not above three-quarters of a mile in
length, and is perfectly straight; its direction N.E. and S.W. In its nar-
rowest part it is not much over a cable wide. On the South side of the
eastern entrance two rocks extend off Blakely Island, the inner one always
above high water; the outer, a long black rock, is nearly a quarter of a
mile off shore, and just awash at high water.
SHAW ISLAND is much of the same character as Lopez, though consi-
derably smaller, being about 3 miles in extent, measured in any direction.
It is the continuation of the eastern side of the Middle Channel, and be-
tween it and Orcas Island lie the Wasp group, among which are several
passages leading to the harbours of Orcas and Lopez, and into Rosario
Strait.
The Wasp Islands, five in number, besides some smaller islets and rocks,
lie on the eastern side of Middle Channel, between Shaw and Orcas Islands.
Yellow Island, the westernmost of the group, is rather remarkable from its
colour, grassy and nearly bare of trees, the remainder of the group being
wooded. From its West end a sandy spit extends for a cable's length,
with a rock on the extreme, bare at low water, and round which kelp
grows; therefore, this point should be given a berth in passing up or down
Middle Channel. Northward of Yellow Island are Brown and Reef Islands ;
off the West side of the latter a reef extends for more than a cable's length.
Wasp Passage leads through this group to the sound of Orcas and to Rosario
Strait. With the assistance of the chart a steamer would find but little
difficulty in passing through it, though the passage by Upright channel is
to be preferred.
If desired, a vessel may pass into Wasp Channel to the southward of
Yellow Island, between it and Low Island, a small islet, thence northward
of Nob Islet, and as before directed, between Crane and Cliff Islands.
There is yet another passage into Wasp Channel southward of Cliff Island,
between it and Neck Point, the remarkable western extreme of Shaw Island.
These two latter passages are the shortest into the Wasp channel for vessels
from the southward. The eye will be found the best guide; a good lookout
is necessary, and to a steamer there is no difficulty.
North Passage. This clear deep channel leading to Deer Harbour, the
westernmost port in Orcas Island, lies between Steep Point, the S.W. point
ORCAS ISLAND.
285
of Orcas, and Reef Island, the northernmost of the Wasp group. It is
nearly a quarter of a mile wide and 20 fathoms deep, and the only danger
to avoid on it is the reef off the West side of the latter island. Deer Har-
bour may be entered equally well between Reef and Brown Islands. A
patch of 2 fathoms lies S.W. by W. nearly a cable from the N.W. point of
the latter.
ORCAS ISLAND, the largest of the archipelago, has been before noticed,
as forming the western side of Rosario Strait. Its most elevated part,
Mount Constitution, is on the eastern side. On the West side is the Turtle
Back, a long wooded range 1,600 feet, and West of it again, rising imme-
diately over the sea, that singular bare-top cone known as Orcas Nob, a
remarkable object when seen either from the North or South.
The ports of Orcas are Deer Harbour, West and East Sounds; but on the
western and northern sides of Orcas there is no convenient anchorage. A
vessel might drop an anchor if necessary southward of the Bill of Orcas, a
remarkable projecting bare point, with a nob on its extreme.
The North coast is steep and precipitous, except between the Bill and
Thompson Point, a distance of 2 miles. Immediately off this part of the
coast is Parker Reef, described in page 281. From Thompson Point, a bare
cliffy point, the coast forms a slight curve easterly to Lawrence Point, distant
6 miles.
Lawrence Point, the sloping termination of the high range of Mount
Constitution, is the eastern extreme of Orcas Island; on its northern side it
is a steep and almost perpendicular cliff.
Deer Harbour is the westernmost of the three ports of Orcas, and, as
before observed, is conveniently entered from the Middle Channel by North
Passage between Steep Point of Orcas and Reef Island, or between the latter
and Brown Island of the Wasp group. The harbour is a mile long in a
North and South direction, and about the same breadth at its southern end;
it narrows, however, rapidly, and terminates in a shoal creek, and fresh
water streams fed from a lake. Fawn Islet lies off the steep cliffy shore of
the West side of the harbour; below it the depth of water varies from
10 to 15 fathoms, abreast and above it from 5 to 8 fathoms. The bottom
is mud.
West Sound may be entered from Middle Channel, either by the Wasp or
Upright Passages already described, or from Rosario Strait by either of the
Obstruction passes. Having entered by the Wasp Passage, cleared the
Passage Rock, and being off Broken Point-a remarkable cliffy point-the
extreme of a small peninsula on the North side of Shaw Island, West Sound
will be open, extending in a N.W. N. direction for more than 2 miles,
with Orcas Nob immediately over the head of it. The breadth of the sound
is about three-quarters of a mile, and the depth of water from 10 to 16
fathoms, with no hidden dangers.
286
THE MIDDLE CHANNEL.
White Beach Bay, so named from the quantities of white clam shells, the
remains of native feasts, lying on its shores, and giving them the appearance
of white sandy beaches, is on the eastern side of the sound, 2 miles above
Broken Point. Massacre Bay is the continuation of the head of the sound,
between Haida and Indian Points, and the anchorage is nearly a mile above
White Beach Bay. Harbour Rock, covering at one-third flood, lies almost
in the centre of the bay, between the two entrance points.
Harney Channel, between Orcas and Shaw Islands, connects the West
and East sounds of Orcas. It commences at Broken Point, and runs in an
easterly direction for 3 miles, when it enters Upright Channel between
Foster and Hankin Points; the former is a low sloping green point, the
southern termination of the peninsula which separates the two sounds;
the latter is the eastern bluff wooded point of Shaw Island. N.W. from
Hankin Point is a rocky patch which lies more than a cable off shore, and
covers at half flood. Camp Cove is immediately northward of Foster Point;
it is a convenient cove for boats, or a small vessel. High-water Rock lies
more than a cable's length from the shore, and half a mile north-eastward
from Foster Point; it is awash at high water.
Blind Bay, on Shaw Island, is on the South shore, midway between
Broken and Hankin Points. A small round islet, partially wooded, lies in
the centre of the entrance, and a reef of rocks, covering at high water, ex-
tends from its western point, almost choking the entrance on that side. A
rock, covering at a quarter flood, also lies off the eastern side of the islet, so
that the bay is only eligible for coasters, which should keep the island close
aboard in entering.
East Sound.-Entering this sound by Upright Channel, or through the
Wasp Passages and Harney Channel, when abreast Upright Hill, from
which Diamond Point, the western point of the sound, bears North 2 miles,
its entrance will be easily made out. If by the Obstruction Passes, as soon
as a vessel is at their western entrance, the whole length of the sound will
be open, bearing N.W. W. A remarkable conical hill, over 1,000 feet
high, rises on either side of the entrance, which lies between Diamond and
Stockade Points. From between these points the sound runs in a N.W. by
W. direction for 6 miles; for the first 2 miles the breadth is three-quarters
of a mile; it then contracts at Cascade Bay to half a mile, and opens out
again above to more than a mile. The head of the sound terminates in two
bays, a jutting cliffy point separating the two. The general depth of water
in the sound is 15 fathoms.
Stockade Bay, on the eastern side of the sound entrance, nearly a mile
North of Stockade Point, the north-western entrance point of North Obstruc-
tion Pass, affords anchorage in 8 fathoms, about 3 cables from the shore.
Green Bank, on the western side, immediately opposite Stockade Bay, is a
bank of sand extending halfway across the sound; on it there are from 5 to
HARO STRAIT.
287
9 fathoms, with one patch of 4 fathoms. On the eastern side of the sound,
2 miles above Stockade Bay, is a small hook facing the S.E., forming Cas-
cade Bay. A large stream falls by a cascade into the bay, and it would be
a convenient place to water a ship.
HARO STRAIT.
HARO STRAIT, the westernmost of the three channels leading from the
Strait of Fuca into the Strait of Georgia, is bounded on the western side by
Vancouver Island, and its off-lying smaller islands and reefs, and on the
eastern side by the islands of San Juan and Stuart, and runs in a N.W. by
N. direction for 18 miles; it then turns sharply to the N.E. round Turn
Point of Stuart Island, for a further distance of 12 miles, leaving the
Saturna Island to the westward, and Waldron and Patos Islands to the
eastward, when it enters the Strait of Georgia between Saturna and Patos
Islands.
It is for the most part a broad, and for its whole extent a deep navigable
ship channel; but on account of the reefs which exist in certain parts, the
general absence of steady winds, the scarcity of anchorages, and, above all,
the strength and varying direction of the tides, much care and vigilance is
necessary in its navigation, and it is far more adapted to steam than to sail-
ing vessels.
Besides the main stream of the Haro Strait thus described, there are
several smaller channels and passages branching from it by which vessels
may enter the Strait of Georgia; thus the Swanson Channel leads into the
strait by the Active Pass (formerly the Plumper Pass, by which name it is
more generally known), and the Trincomalie and Stuart Channels by the
Portier Pass, or the Dodd Narrows.
These channels may be again entered by smaller ones; thus Sidney and
Cordova Channels, on the western side of Haro Strait, lead by Moresby and
Shute Passages into the Swanson and Stuart Channels, and finally into the
Strait of Georgia. These channels are essentially adapted to steam naviga-
tion, or to coasting vessels; they afford smooth water, and many of them
anchorages. They will be described in their proper order.
Middle Bank, lying in the southern entrance of Haro Strait, E. by N. 4
miles from Discovery Island, and almost in mid-channel, is a rocky patch about
2 miles in extent each way, and the least water found on it is 10 fathoms.
In bad weather there are heavy tide ripplings on and in the vicinity of this
bank, which are dangerous to boats or small craft.
Zero Rock. The principal dangers in the southern part of Haro Strait are
the Zero Rock and the Kelp Reefs; the former lies on the West side of the
strait, is about half a cable in extent, covers at three-quarters flood, and its
vicinity is marked by kelp. It bears from the East point of Discovery
288
HARO STRAIT.
Island N.W. 6 miles, and from the high white cliff of Cowitchin Head E.
by S. 34 miles.
The Kelp Reefs lie almost in the centre of Haro Strait, N.N.W. W.,
7 miles from the East point of Discovery Island, E. by N. & N. 5 miles from
Cowitchin Head, and East 2 miles from the South end of Darcy Island.
They uncover at low springs, and are well marked by kelp, which extends
in detached patches to Darcy Island. The Unit Rock lies E. by N. & N.
three-quarters of a mile from the S.E. point of Darcy Island, and uncovers
2 feet at low tides.
DIRECTIONS.-Vessels passing up Haro Strait to avoid the above dan-
gers, after rounding Discovery Island at the distance of a mile, should steer
N.N.W., or for Kellett Bluff of Henry Island, a remarkable steep rocky
headland on the eastern side. This course will clear the Kelp Reefs by a mile.
In working up, when standing westward, a vessel should tack when Low
Island is shut in with the S.E. point of Sidney Island, which will give the
Zero Rock a good berth; but when approaching the Kelp Reefs, Bare Island
must be kept well open to the eastward of the same point to avoid them.
The eastern or San Juan shore is steep close-to.
When abreast Kellett Bluff from half a mile to a mile, a N.W. by N.
course will pass the same distance from Turn Point of Stuart Island. There
are no dangers off this point; but whirling eddies and tide ripplings, caused
by the meetings of the streams from so many channels, are generally met
with, particularly with the ebb. A vessel may reach this point with a
fresh southerly wind, but will almost invariably lose it here, until having
opened out the middle channel eastward of San Juan.
After rounding Turn Point, a N.E. N. course for 10 miles will lead to
the northern entrance of Haro Strait, between the East point of Saturna and
Patos Islands. This passage is 23 miles in breadth, but is subject to heavy
tide ripplings and eddies; it is recommended when possible to pass through
the centre of it. The flood from the Rosario Strait, which is met with as
soon as the passage between Orcas and Sucia Islands is open, is apt to set a
vessel towards the East point of Saturna, off which and Tumbo Island there
is much uneven and broken ground with heavy races. This point should be
given a berth of a mile.
The ebb sets to the eastward even before the Strait of Georgia is well
open, and a vessel finding herself not likely to weather Patos should pass
between it and Sucia, where there is a good clear passage of above a mile
in breadth; if this passage is taken, the Patos Island shore should be kept
rather aboard. Beware of the Plumper and Clements Reefs; the former
lies S.W. by S. 1 mile from the N. W. bluff of Sucia Island, and has 10 ft.
water on it; the latter N.E. N. the same distance from the same bluff,
and has 9 feet over it. When in the Strait of Georgia from W. by N. to
W.N.W. is a fair mid-channel course. If bound for Fraser River, a N.W.
PLUMPER SOUND.
289
by W. course from the centre of the channel between Patos Island and East
Point will lead to the sand heads, the distance nearly 20 miles. Entering
the strait, and having passed to the northward of Patos Island, if the ebb
is running a vessel is extremely liable, unless with a commanding breeze, to
be set to the eastward and down the Rosario Channel.
The northern shore of Sucia Island should by all means be avoided. If
Alden Bank can be fetched, it offers a good anchorage while waiting for a tide.
Cormorant Bay.-Between Gordon and Cowitchin Heads, on the western
side of Haro Strait, is a good stopping place, and easy of access under most
circumstances. It may be entered either to the southward or northward of
Zero Rock; the passage to the southward is 1½ mile in breadth, with a
depth of 20 fathoms. Mount Douglas, a remarkable hill, 696 feet high, with
its summit bare of trees, rises immediately over the coast at the head of the
bay. Johnstone Reef lies three-quarters of a mile from the shore, midway
between Cadboro Point and Gordon Head, is marked by kelp, and of small
extent. Three shoal patches, with from 6 to 12 ft. on them, lie W. S., one to
1½ mile distant from Zero Rock. There is but little stream of tide in
Cormorant Bay when within the Zero Rock, and the holding ground is good.
Although there are many harbours among the archipelago of islands
which form the Haro Strait and its tributary channels, yet the number
eligible for sailing vessels overtaken by darkness or an averse tide is compa-
ratively small.
Between Cormorant Bay and the northern entrance of Haro Strait,
Plumper Sound and Cowlitz Bay are the only eligible stopping places for a
sailing vessel seeking shelter.
Stuart Island, indeed, affords two fair harbours, and Roche Harbour, at
the north-west end of San Juan Island is a suitable anchorage for steamers
or small coasters, but no sailing vessel of moderate tonnage could enter
either under ordinary circumstances without great loss of time as well as risk.
Tides.—The stream of tide runs fairly through the main channel of Haro
Strait, outside the Kelp Reefs, and inside them through the Cordova and
Sidney Channels, passing outside the Kelp Reefs, and eastward of Sidney
Island, a part of the flood stream will be found to branch off to the eastward,
between San Juan and Stuart Islands, and there meeting the flood from the
Middle Channel, cause heavy races and eddies, so that although there are
deep-water channels between these islands, they are not recommended for
sailing vessels; in like manner the flood runs to the N.W. between the
group of islands northward of Sidney Island, and through Shute and
Moresby Passages, though the main stream will be found to run fairly be-
tween Stuart and Moresby Islands.
PLUMPER SOUND.—If from any cause it should be found necessary to
anchor in that bend of the Haro Strait between Stuart Island and the East
point of Saturna Island, this sound is recommended as a safe and conve-
North Pacific.
U
290
HARO STRAIT.
nient harbour, easy of access with the wind from any quarter. It is formed
between Pender and Saturna Islands, and the entrance lies N.N.E. E. 5
miles from Turn Point of Stuart Island, and an equal distance from the
East point of Saturna. Blunden Island, about 2 cables in length, and close
to the shore, forms the western entrance point; Monarch Head, a high, bold,
rocky headland, the eastern. The sound runs in a W.N.W. direction for
6 miles, with an average breadth of 1 mile. There is anchorage in a mo-
derate depth of water in most parts of it, as well as several bays or harbours
if preferred.
There are no dangers at the entrance; either shore may be approached
close, in working up, and but little tide is felt.
Excellent anchorage may be had in almost any part; the most convenient
is off the entrance of Browning Harbour, on the South side of the sound, in
8 fathoms. Above Browning Harbour, the only danger to be avoided in
working up the sound is Perry Rock, with 6 feet on it, marked by kelp; it is
2 cables from the shore and N.W. by N., three-quarters of a mile from
Razor Point, the North point of the harbour.
Browning Harbour is on the South side of Plumper Sound, 3 miles within
the entrance; it runs in a West direction for 1 mile, and is a third of a
mile wide, but rather less at the entrance. The depth of water decreases
gradually from 10 fathoms at the entrance to 4 fathoms at its head, with
good holding ground.
Lyall Harbour and Winter Cove lie in the S.E. corner of Plumper Sound,
and are indentations in the N.W. end of Saturna Island.
Lyall Harbour is the southernmost, and its southern entrance point, a
cliffy bluff, bears N. E., 2 miles from the entrance of Browning Harbour.
The harbour runs East for 12 mile, gradually narrowing and terminating
in a sandy beach with a good stream of fresh water at its head; but the
Crispin Rock, with 6 ft. on it at low water, decreases its value as a harbour
for sailing vessels. This rock is a mere pinnacle, nearly half a mile within
the entrance; there is no kelp to give warning of its position, and it lies
exactly in the middle of the harbour. Boot Cove, on the South side of the
harbour, a third of a mile within the South point, has 3 fathoms water, and
is a convenient spot for repairing a vessel. A small islet lies off its western
entrance point.
Samuel Island, between Saturna and Mayne Islands, is almost connected
with either, but leaving 2 passages by which boats or even small coasters
may pass into the Strait of Georgia at proper times of tide. This island is
indented on its southern side by several bays, among them Winter Cove,
which is formed between its south-eastern side and the N.W. point of
Saturna, and is only half a mile northward of Lyall Harbour. The depth
of water in the cove being only from 2 to 3 fathoms, it is only fit for small
vessels, which must pass to the westward of King Islets, and on either side
of the Minx Reef.
NAVY CHANNEL-STUART ISLAND.
291
NAVY CHANNEL is a continuation of the western part of Plumper
Sound, and leads between Pender and Mayne Islands into the Trincomalie
Channel. Independently, therefore, of its value as an anchorage, Plumper
Sound becomes a high road for vessels bound into the Strait of Georgia or
Fraser River by the Active Pass, or to Nanaimo, or any of the north-western
ports of Vancouver Island. From the north-western end of the sound
abreast Fane Island the channel runs West for 3 miles, when it enters Trin-
comalie Channel between Mayne and Prevost Islands; its average breadth
is half a mile.
Conconi Reef lies about midway through Navy Channel, 12 mile from
Fane Island, and nearly 2 cables off the northern shore, and narrows the
strait at that part to a third of a mile. It is a ledge of rocks extending in
the direction of the channel for more than a cable's length, and covering at
half tide; its vicinity is marked by kelp.
The Enterprize Reefs are two rocky patches, the westernmost of which
dries at low water, and both are marked by kelp. The outermost of these
reefs lies W.N.W. 1 mile from Dinner Point, the N.W. entrance point of
Navy Channel, and S. by E. two-thirds of a mile from Helen Point, the
South point of Active Pass. Vessels using Navy Channel should keep
rather southward of mid-channel. The shores of Pender Island are bold.
Bedwell Harbour, on the S.E. part of Pender Island, the entrance to
which bears North 3 miles from Turn Point of Stuart Island, and is the
same distance westward of the southern entrance of Plumper Sound, is, on
account of its narrower entrance, not so eligible a stopping place for vessels
waiting the tide as the latter; but for steamers it is a good harbour. Its
narrowest part, which is at the entrance, is a quarter of a mile in breadth,
but it soon opens out to half a mile, and runs in a W.N.W. direction for 2
miles, the depth of water being from 5 to 10 fathoms, mud bottom. The
only danger which does not show is the Drew Rock, with 10 feet on it, in the
centre of the harbour a third of a mile from its head. Camp Bay, between
Bedwell Harbour and Plumper Sound, and half a mile westward of Blunden
Island, offers shelter as a stopping place to small craft, when not convenient
to work into either of these ports,
STUART ISLAND, lying 3 miles north-westward of the northern part of
the island of San Juan, is 3 miles long in an East and West direction, of an
irregular shape, and about 650 ft. high, the summits of the hills partially
bare of trees. Turn Point, its N.W. extreme, a bold cliffy bluff, forms the
salient angle of the Haro Strait, where it changes its direction suddenly from
N.W. by N. to N.E. before entering the Strait of Georgia. There are two
anchorages in Stuart Island, Reid Harbour on its southern side, and Prevost
Harbour on its northern, but both are small and intricate for sailing vessels
above the size of coasters.
Johns Island, with its numerous off-lying reefs, lies to the eastward of
U 2
292
HARO STRAIT.
Stuart Island, and separated from it by a navigable channel of 10 fathoms, but
it is narrow, and not recommended but for coasters acquainted with the locality.
Spieden Island, lying between San Juan and Stuart Islands, is 24 miles
long in an East and West direction, and very narrow; its southern side
grassy and bare of trees, its summit and northern side thickly wooded.
Green Point, its eastern extreme, is a sloping grassy point. There is a chan-
nel on either side of Spieden Island. New Channel to the northward, and
Spieden Channel to the southward.
Spieden Channel, between the island of that name and San Juan, has a
general W. by S. direction. Its eastern entrance, between Green Point and
the N.E. point of San Juan, is two-thirds of a mile wide, and for 2 miles the
water is deep and clear of positive dangers; the meeting of the flood-tide,
however, from Haro Strait with that from the Middle Channel, causes heavy
ripplings and irregular eddies, and these, together with the general absence
of steady winds, render the navigation always tedious and dangerous for
sailing vessels; its western entrance is encumbered with numerous reefs and
shoals with irregular soundings.
Sentinel Island stands in the western entrance of this channel. It is small,
bare on its southern side, about 150 feet high, bears E.S.E. two-thirds of a
mile from Spieden Bluff. Centre Reef is a dangerous patch, awash at low
water, and almost in the centre of the channel. It bears from Sentinel
Island S.W. by S. nearly half a mile; from Spieden Bluff, the western ex-
treme of that island, S.E. by S. more than two-thirds of a mile; and from
Morse Island, off the North point of Henry Island, N.N.E. E. one mile;
the kelp will generally be seen round the reef, but it is sometimes run
under. Danger Shoal is also at the western entrance; it has two fathoms on
it, and is marked by kelp, though not always to be distinguised. It bears
from Spieden Bluff S.S.W. & W. three-quarters of a mile. Bare Islet is a
rock, about 15 feet high, lying in the southern part of the channel, E. by N.
N. one mile from Morse Island. There is a shoal patch of 15 feet nearly
2 cables N.W. by N. from it.
DIRECTIONS.-Vessels bound from Haro Strait to the eastward through
the Spieden Channel should pass about a quarter of a mile or less north-
ward of Morse Island, and then steer for Green Point, the East extreme
of Spieden Island, until Sentinel Island bears N.W.; the dangers will then
be passed, and a straight course may be steered through.
If bound westward through this channel, if the passage between Spieden
and Sentinel Islands is not taken, the shore of Spieden Island should still be
kept aboard within a quarter of a mile to avoid the tide races.
New Channel to the northward of Spieden Island, though narrower than
the one just described, is deep, more free from danger, and the navigation.
of it more simple. The northern shore of Spieden Island is bold and steep,
and should be kept aboard; the narrowest part of the channel is a quarter
of a mile between Spieden and the Cactus Islands.
SAN JUAN ISLAND.
293
SAN JUAN ISLAND, the western coast of which forms for some dis-
tance the eastern boundary of Haro Strait, is of considerable size, being 13
miles in length in a N.W. and S.E. direction, with an average breadth of
about 4 miles.* Its western shores are steep and rocky, and afford no an-
chorage, soundings from 100 to 150 fathoms being found within half a mile
of the coast. Mount Dallas rises abruptly to a height of 1,086 feet, but the
eastern side of the island falls in a more gentle slope, and affords a consider-
able extent of good land available for agricultural or grazing purposes.
Towards the southern end, and visible from seaward, are some white build-
ings, the farming establishment of the Hudson Bay Company; the south-
eastern extreme, which forms one of the entrance points of the Middle Chan-
nel, terminates in a white clay cliff, over which rises Mount Finlayson to a
height of 550 feet.
Off the N.W. end of San Juan lies Henry Island, being only separated from
it by a narrow channel called Mosquito Passage. Henry Island would be
taken as a part of San Juan, the passage appearing merely as an indentation.
Kellett Bluff, the S.W. point of the island, makes as the most prominent
headland on the eastern side of Haro Strait, when seen from the southward.
Immediately eastward of it is Open Bay, which has more the appearance of
a channel than the true one, Mosquito Passage. There is no shelter either
in the bay, or anchorage in the passage, for anything beyond coasters.
Mosquito Passage runs in a northerly and N.N.W. direction for 3 miles,
is something over half a mile in breadth, and is studded with numerous reefs,
which are marked by kelp. When a mile within the passage, Westcott Creek,
an indentation in San Juan, branches off to the N.E., and affords a haven
for coasters. At the northern entrance of Mosquito Passage, the space be-
tween San Juan and Henry Islands opens out considerably, and the depth of
* Lord Milton's excellent work on the political importance of San Juan, and the dis-
cussion which it has given rise to, has been before alluded to.
+ Captain R. C. Mayne, R. N., in his interesting book, "Four Years in British Columbia
and Vancouver Island" (employed on the survey), thus speaks of San Juan Island. There
is more land available for agriculture here than on any other of the group; and of this the
Hudson Bay Company took advantage some years ago, and established a sheep-farm upon
it. This farm has ever since its establishment been in charge of Mr. Griffin, a gentleman
whose kindness and hospitality render him every one's friend. It is situated on a beautiful
prairie at the S.E. end of the island, which, rising 140 feet above the water, looks most at-
tractive to the emigrant passing onward toward the Fraser. I have never seen wild flowers
elsewhere grow with the beauty and luxuriance they possess here. Perhaps I cannot illus-
trate the attractions of St. Juan better, than by saying that it was the spot selected by his
Excellancy the Governor's daughter and niece in which to spend their honeymoon.
At one time I believe the Company had as many as 3,000 sheep on the island, dis-
tributed at various stations, all under Mr. Griffin's charge. His house, which is very
pleasantly situated, looks out on the Strait of Fuca, and commands a magnificent view up
Admiralty Inlet. Directly in front of it lies a bank, which is a very favourite fishing-
stat on of the Indians, where they catch a large number of salmon and halibut.
294
HARO STRAIT.
water increases. This space forms Roche Harbour, which must be entered
from the northward by vessels of burden; its entrance is somewhat confined
but not uneasy of access, and it affords good shelter when within. Morse
Island, a small flat cliffy island, about 30 feet high, lies a quarter of a mile
westward of the North point of Henry Island; and the entrance of Roche
Harbour is half a mile eastward of the former. Small vessels leaving Roche
Harbour, and bound southward, may take the Mosquito Passage.
WALDRON ISLAND lies in the northern entrance of the Middle Channel,
and its anchorages are frequently available for vessels passing to or from
Haro Strait. The island is thickly wooded, moderately high, and cliffy on
its southern and eastern sides, but falling to the northward, where it termi-
nates in low sandy points. Disney Point, its southern extreme, is a remark-
able high stratified bluff.
Cowlitz Bay, on the western side of Waldron, between Disney and Sandy
Points, affords good anchorage with all winds, the depth of water from 5 to
8 fathoms, and the holding ground stiff mud; it may be sometimes more
desirable to anchor here than to work 2 or 3 miles up into Plumper Sound,
particularly for vessels coming up Middle Channel.
North Bay, on the N.W. side of the island, affords anchorage in 8 to 10
fathoms about a quarter of a mile off shore, but it is not by any means de-
sirable place as Cowlitz Bay.
1
Danger Rock.—This dangerous reef, mentioned on page 280, with only 5
feet on it, and on which the kelp is rarely seen, lies S.E. by E. E., a third
of a mile from White Rock, which is 25 feet above high water, and has also
a covering rock extending 2 cables to the N.W. of it.
The WESTERN CHANNELS of HARO STRAIT may be used with ad-
vantage by steamers or coasters bound from the southern ports of Vancouver
Island to the Strait of Georgia, or to the districts of Saanich, Cowitchin,
Nanaimo, and the numerous intermediate harbours; their advantages over
the Haro Strait consist in a less strength of tide with sheltered anchorage
in almost all parts, while in the latter strait the depth of water is so great,
that it is impossible to anchor, and sailing vessels may frequently be set
back into Fuca Strait, thus entailing great delay as well as risk. On
the other hand, the western channels are not free from danger, yet with
the assistance of the chart, and a good look out from aloft for kelp, they may
be navigated during daylight with ease and safety.
Sidney Channel.-Having passed either inside or outside Zero Rock, and
intending to take the Sidney Channel, between Sidney and James Islands,
which is the best, the following directions should be observed.
The southern face of James Island is a moderately high and steep white
clay cliff, its summit covered with trees; towards the eastern part of this
cliff are two remarkable notches on its summit. Steer to the N.N.W. to
bring Mount Tuam (on the southern point of Admiral Island) over the centre
CORDOVA CHANNEL-COAL ISLAND.
295
between these two notches bearing N.W. by W., and this mark will lead
westward of the 3-fathom patch off Darcy Island, and between it and the
shoal of 9 feet extending south-eastward of James Island.
The breadth of the channel is nearly a mile, with from 14 to 20 fathoms,
until near its northern end, where a patch with 3 fathoms, marked by kelp,
lies 3 cables' lengths off the western point of Sidney Island; this is avoided
by not shutting in the passage between Darcy and Sidney Islands, until
the north-west end of Sidney Spit, a long, sandy tongue with a few trees
on its extreme, bears N. There is good anchorage off this spit in 8 fathoms.
Cordova Channel, westward of James Island, between it and the main
Island of Vancouver, is a fair passage with anchorage along the shore of
the main island and little tide. It is not, however, to be preferred to the
Sydney Channel, as a sand-bank with 15 feet on it lies in the centre of the
southern entrance.
Miners Channel.-Low and Bare Islands are two small islands lying off
the eastern side of Sidney Island, and between them and the latter there is
a good passage, three-quarters of a mile in breadth, with 10 fathoms the least
water. This channel may often prove convenient for vessels having passed
up Haro Strait eastward of the Kelp Reefs, and desiring to take the inner
channels to Saanich, Cowitchin, or through Stuart Channel. Midway be-
tween Low and Bare Islands, and on the line between their N.W. points, is a
reef which uncovers.
Having passed to the northward of Sidney Island, either by Cordova, Sid-
ney, or Miners Channels, the Shute or Moresby Passages may be taken as
convenient.
Shute Passage. To enter this passage, after leaving Sidney Spit, pass
between Jones Island and the Little Group, then eastward of Coal Island,
Knapp and Pym Islands, and between Piers and Portland Islands, when
the Satellite Channel will be entered, which leads directly to Saanich,
Cowitchen, and the western ports of Vancouver Island. This is a good,
clear channel, and with the assistance of the chart may be used with much
facility.
Jones Island lies North from Sidney Spit two-thirds of a mile, with a clear
passage between. The Little Group lie W. by N. two-thirds of a mile from
Jones Island. They consist of four rocky islets, bare of trees, and connected
by reefs. Bird Islet, lying on the eastern side of Shute Passage, and N.N.W.
two-thirds of a mile from the North point of Jones Island, is about 6 feet
above high water.
Coal Island, which helps to form the western side of Shute Passage, lies
close off the N.E. extreme of the Saanich Peninsula, and immediately at the
entrance of Shoal Harbour. It is a mile in extent, and thickly wooded, and
its eastern and northern shores are free from danger.
A rock, which covers at quarter flood, lies W.N.W. 4 cables from the
296
HARO STRAIT.
East end of the group, and S.S.E. nearly two-thirds of a mile from the East
point of the island. A small patch with 4 fathoms over it, and marked by
kelp, lies N.E. one mile from the East point of Coal Island, N.N.W. § W.,
more than three-quarters of a mile from Bird Islet, and one-third of a mile
S.W. from Yellow Islet.
Celia Reef must also be avoided. The least water found on it is 9 feet; it
is marked by kelp, and lies North two-thirds of a mile from the North point
of Pym Island. Knapp and Pym Islands are small and wooded, lying be-
tween Piers and Coal Islands. Having passed westward between these is-
lands a vessel is fairly in Satellite Channel.
Moresby Passage.-After leaving the northern end of Sidney Island, the
directions for Moresby Passage are the same as those already given for
Shute Passage, until abreast the East point of Coal Island. From a berth
about one-third of a mile off this point, the direct course through the pas-
sage is North by West for two miles, or until near its northern entrance,
which lies between Portland and Moresby Islands. This space is wide, and
free from danger; it then becomes somewhat intricate, from the Turnbull
Reef and Canoe Rocks, which extend off both these islands, narrowing the
channel at its northern entrance to little over one-third of a mile.
Off the eastern point of Portland Island are three rocky islets, the Sisters,
which extend to a distance of nearly 2 cables. They are about 25 feet high,
have a few stunted cedar trees on their summits, are joined by reefs, and
will be immediately recognised either from the northward or southward.
Eastward from the Sisters, at a distance of more than one-third of a mile,
extends the Turnbull Reef. Two fathoms is the least water found on its outer
edge, and it is marked by a heavy bank of kelp. Canoe Rocks is a dangerous
ledge, extending W. N., nearly half a mile from Reef Point, the north-
west point of Moresby Island; the outer rock of this ledge covers a little
after half flood, and is not marked by kelp, though kelp grows between the
point and the rock. When both or either of these dangers are visible, the
passage is very easy.
Prevost Passage lies between Moresby Island and the group of smaller
islands to the southward of it, and leads by the Shute or Moresby Passages
into Satellite Channel. To a vessel passing up the main stream of Haro
Strait, and bound for the Swanson Channel, the easiest and most direct route
is between Stuart and Moresby Islands; but circumstances of wind or tide
may render it convenient to take the Prevost Passage.
The dangers to be avoided in Prevost Passage are the Arachne and Cooper
Reefs. The Arachne lies nearly in the centre of the passage, in a direct
line between Fairfax Point, the S.E. point of Moresby Island, and Tom
Point, the East point of Gooch Island. This reef covers at quarter flood,
and has a good deal of kelp on its N.W. edge, which, however, is frequently
hidden by the tide.
SATELLITE CHANNEL-SAANICH INLET.
297
Cooper Reef, lying half a mile N. by W. of Tom Point of Gooch Island, is
marked by kelp, and uncovers at half ebb.
Yellow Island, a small bare island S. W. by W. nearly one mile from Fair-
fax Point, may be passed on either side. The North side is recommended;
if passing on its South side, take care to avoid the small patch of 4 fathoms
marked with kelp, mentioned in page 295 as lying S.W., a third of a mile
from it.
SATELLITE CHANNEL is formed by Admiral Island on the North, and
Moresby, Portland, and Piers Islands, and the northern shore of Saanitch
Peninsula on the South. It leads to Saanich Inlet, Cowitchin Harbour,
and by the Sansum Narrows to Stuart Channel. It is a fair deep passage,
with but few dangers, which are not always visible; among these are Shute
Reef and Patey Rock.
Shute Reef is a ledge less than half a cable in extent, with two rocks, one
of which dries 8 feet at low water, its vicinity being marked by kelp. It lies
W.S.W. two-thirds of a mile from Harry Point, the North point of Piers
Island, and N. E. nearly 3 cables from Arbutus, a small islet lying half a
mile westward of Piers Island.
Patey Rock, at the western end of Satellite Channel, is a single rock,
uncovering at half tide with kelp round it, and is in the way of vessels work-
ing into Saanich Inlet or Cowitchin Harbour. It bears from Hatch Point,
the westernmost point of Saanich Inlet, N.E. by N., two-thirds of a mile,
from Coal Point, a remarkable nob point, the South extreme of Deep Cove,
N.W. by W. W. nearly 2 miles, and from Arbutus Island S.W. by W. 1-1/247
W. 3 miles.
Cecil Rock, lying S.E. S. a quarter of a mile from the S.W. point of
Russell Island at the entrance of Fulford Harbour, must also be avoided in
working up Satellite Channel. Boatswain Bank, on the western side of the
channel, affords good anchorage in from 4 to 9 fathoms, sandy bottom. It
extends three-quarters of a mile from the Vancouver shore, between Cherry
and Hatch Points.
SAANICH INLET is a deep indentation running in a nearly S.S.E. direc-
tion for 14 miles, carrying deep water to its head, which terminates in a
narrow creek within 4 miles of Esquimalt Harbour. The inlet forms a pe-
ninsula of the S.E. portion of Vancouver Island of about 20 miles in a
N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and varying in breadth from 8 miles at its
southern part to 3 miles at its northern.
On the southern coast of this peninsula are the harbours of Esquimalt and
Victoria, in the neighbourhood of which for some 5 miles the country is
pretty thickly wooded, its prevailing features lake and mountain, with, how-
ever, some considerable tracts of clear and fertile land; the northern portion
for about 10 miles contains some of the best agricultural land in Vancouver
Island, the coast line is fringed with pine forests, but in the centre it is clear
298
HARO STRAIT.
prairie or oak land, and much of it under cultivation; seams of coal have
also been found.
Off the eastern or peninsula side of the inlet there are some good anchor-
ages, the centre being for the most part deep. Immediately southward of
James Point, the north-western point of the peninsula, is Deep Cove, but no
convenient anchorage.
Norris Rock, awash at half tide, lies S.W. by S. 2 cables from James
Point, with 12 fathoms between it and the point. Vessels rounding this point
should give it a berth of half a mile.
COWITCHIN HARBOUR is 4 miles westward of Cape Keppel, the south-
ern extreme of Admiral Island; Separation Point, the western point of en-
trance of Sansum Narrows, forms its northern entrance point, and is some-
what remarkable, being the termination of a high stony ridge dropping
suddenly, and running off as a low sharp point to the southward. Cowitchin
runs to the westward of this point for 2 miles, and the general depth of
water in it is 30 fathoms, which shoals suddenly as the flat, which dries off
for more than half a mile from the head of the harbour, is approached. But
for the large tract of good land contained in the valley of Cowitchin, the
port would scarcely be deserving of notice, and certainly the term of bay is
more applicable to it than that of harbour. The only convenient anchorage
to be obtained is in Snug Creek, on the North side of the harbour, or off the
outer village on the South side, a mile within the entrance.
Sansum Narrows run in a general northerly direction between Vancouver
and Admiral Islands for a distance of 6 miles, when they lead into Stuart
Channel. Their average breadth is about half a mile, but at their narrowest
part abreast Bold Bluff on the Admiral Island shore, 24 miles above Separa-
tion Point, they are contracted to a third of a mile. The high land on either
side renders the wind generally very unsteady; it cannot be recommended
except for steamers or coasting vessels.
Entering Sansum Narrows from the southward, a kelp patch, with 9 feet
on it, must be avoided on the Admiral Island shore. It lies 2 cables S.S.W.
from a small islet close to the coast, nearly a mile E. by N. from Separation
Point, and S.E. & S. half a mile from Entrance Point.
Another rocky patch extends nearly a cable off shore from the eastern side
of the Narrows, three-quarters of a mile north-westward of Entrance Point.
Burial Islet, a small spot used as an Indian burying-place, lies on the eastern
side of the Narrows, 1 mile above Separation Point.
Burgoyne Bay.—Bold Bluff, a smooth headland of bare rock, is steep-to;
the channel here is scarcely a third of a mile across. Burgoyne Bay, the
entrance to which is half a mile eastward of Bold Bluff, is a narrow and
rather deep indentation, terminating in a sandy head. There is no bot-
tom in the bay under 30 fathoms, until within 2 cables of its head, when
STUART CHANNEL.
299
the water shoals suddenly from 10 to 4 fathoms. Anchorage may be had if
necessary.
Maple Bay. From Grave Point the Narrows take a north-westerly direc-
tion, and at a distance of little more than a mile on the Vancouver Island
shore is Maple Bay. Boulder, the southern entrance point, is remarkable.
from a large boulder stone standing at its low water extreme. Although an
inviting looking bay, the water is too deep for comfortable anchorage.
Bird's-eye Cove, which runs in a southerly direction for nearly a mile from
Boulder Point, affords fair anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms. A shoal patch,
with 2 fathoms, extends nearly a cable off the West side of the cove.
STUART CHANNEL.-Sansum Narrows extend 1 mile northward of
Maple Bay, when they lead into Stuart Channel, the westernmost of the
ship passages which wash the eastern side of Vancouver Island. The western
side of this channel is formed by the shores of that island; its eastern by the
Coasts of Admiral and Thetis Islands. It runs in a general N.W. direc-
tion for nearly 20 miles, when it joins the Dodd Narrows below Nanaimo.
The principal dangers are the North and Escape Reefs, White Rock, and
Danger Reef.
On the Western or Vancouver Island shore there are some good harbours,
viz., Osborn Bay, Horse-shoe Bay, Oyster Harbour, and Chemainos Bay;
on the eastern side there are also some anchorages, Telegraph and Preedy
harbours on the western, and Clam Bay on the eastern side of Thetis
Island.
Osborn Bay, the southernmost anchorage on the western side of Stuart
Channel, may be known by the Shoal Islands, a low wooded group, con-
nected at low water by reefs and mud banks, and which form the northern
side of the bay. The bay affords good anchorage, sheltered from the pre-
vailing winds, from the westward and S.E.
The coast north-westward of Osborn Bay, between it and Horse-shoe Bay,
is shoal for some distance off, deepening suddenly when half a mile from the
shore, and vessels should by no means approach it within that distance.
Horse-Shoe Bay, 4 miles north-westward of Osborn Bay, will be known
by a rather remarkable sharp point (Bare Point) bare at its extreme, which
forms its eastern entrance. There is convenient anchorage for small vessels
within a quarter of a mile of its head. The Bird Reef, a rocky ledge un-
covering at half tide, extends a cable's length from the shore, north-westward
of the western point of entrance, and bears from Bare Point W. by S. half
a mile.
Oyster Harbour is 4 miles W.N.W. from Horse-shoe Bay, the interven-
ing coast being free from danger; the harbour runs in the same direction for
4 miles, is nearly a mile wide at the entrance, narrowing gradually within.
Entering from the northward, Coffin Islet should be given a berth of 2 ca-
bles; there are no other dangers which are not visible. At low water the
300
HARO STRAIT.
oyster beds dry for 2 cables off the South shore. A good anchorage for a
large vessel is a mile within the entrance.
It is high water at full and change in Oyster Harbour at 6h 30m p.m., and
the rise is 10 feet.
Chemainos Bay is 2 miles northward of the entrance of Oyster Harbour,
and W. by S. the same distance from Reef Point, the N.W. point of Thetis
Island. It is open and cannot be recommended.
Yellow Point, bare and grassy at its extreme, is the North point of Che-
mainos Bay. From thence to Round Island, at the southern entrance of
Dodd Narrows, and bearing N.W. 5 miles, the coast is bold and free from
danger.
From the northern entrance of Sansum Narrows to North Reef, a dis-
tance of 4 miles, there are no dangers, and both shores may be approached
boldly in working up.
North Reef is a sandstone ledge running in a north-westerly and south-
easterly direction, as all the reefs in this channel do. It bears from the
S.E. point of Tent Island S. E. half a mile, with a clear channel be-
tween of 26 fathoms. Its summit is just awash at high water, and there-
fore easily avoided.
Tent Island, narrow, and two-thirds of a mile long, lies off the South
extreme of Kuper Island, and a cable's length off its S.E. end are two
remarkable worn sandstone rocks 8 or 10 feet above water; the breadth of
the passage between them and North Reef is one-third of a mile. N.E.
E. nearly 2 cables from the south-east end of Tent, is a rock which un-
covers 2 feet.
Escape Reef, at 2 miles N.W. by W. W. from North Reef, is a dan-
gerous patch, nearly one-third of a mile in extent, in a W.N.W. and E.S.E.
direction, which covers at quarter flood, and has no kelp to mark its position.
It lies nearly half a mile from the West shore of Kuper Island; there is a
deep channel a third of a mile wide between it and Kuper Island.
Alarm Rock is scarcely in the track of vessels working up Stuart Chan-
nel. It lies nearly 2 cables S. by W. from the S.E. point of Hudson Island,
the south-easternmost of the group of islands, which lie off the western sides
of Kuper and Thetis Islands. It just covers at high water. False Rock lies
N.W. by W. W. 4 cables from Scott Island, the north-westward of the
group just mentioned, and covers at half flood.
White Rock, about 30 yards long, and 15 feet above high water, lies
N.N.W., one mile from Reef Point, the north-west extreme of Thetis
Island. This rock has a whitish appearance, and is readily distinguished
from a vessel's deck at 2 or 3 miles. It may be passed within 2 cables'
lengths.
Ragged Island, a low rocky islet, with a few trees on it, lies a third of a
DANGER REEF-SWANSON CHANNEL.
301
mile northward of the North end of Thetis Island, with a passage of 12
fathoms between them.
DANGER REEF covers a space of 3 cables almost in the centre of the
channel. A small portion of it is generally awash at high water, at which
time it is difficult to make out until within a short distance of it. White
Rock bears from it S.E. by S. distant one mile; and Tree Islet N.E. § N.,
two-thirds of a mile.
1
2
In passing through Stuart channel, there is a clear passage of 14 mile
between Danger Reef and the Vancouver Island shore, and going either up
or down the channel, White Rock kept on with the low neck (a gap between
the two summits of Thetis Island) leads well to the westward of the reef.
There is a clear passage of three-quarters of a mile between White Rock and
Danger Reef, and of more than half a mile between the reef and Tree Island,
with a depth of over 30 fathoms.
Vesuvius Bay, on the western side of Admiral Island, immediately oppo-
site Osborn Bay, has deep water, but shoals suddenly at its head. It is not
recommended as an anchorage. There is also anchorage inside Idol Islet in
Houston Passage.
Grappler Reef, on the eastern side of Houston Passage, is a cable in ex-
tent, and uncovers at very low water. It lies a quarter of a mile off the
N.W. end of Admiral Island, with Southey Point bearing N.N.E. half a
mile; there are 5 fathoms between it and the shore of the island.
TELEGRAPH HARBOUR, on the West side of Kuper Island, is a snug
anchorage, and its entrance is between Hudson Island and Active Point,
which are half a mile apart. Entering from the southward, Escape Reef
must be avoided. If passing inside the reef, the shore of the island should
be kept aboard within a quarter of a mile: if outside or westward, then the
Sandstone Rocks should be kept open of the S.E. point of Tent Island, un-
til Upright Cliff of Kuper Island bears N.E.; when a vessel will be well to
the northward of it, and may steer for the entrance of the harbour, which is
free from danger, with the exception of Alarm Reef, extending from the
S.E. point of Hudson Island.
Preedy Harbour is separated from the one just described by a group of
small islands and reefs; its entrance is to the northward of them, between
Scott Island and Crescent Point of Thetis Island, and is a third of a mile in
breadth; in entering the Thetis Island shore should be kept aboard to avoid
False Rock, a patch which covers at half tide, and lies W.N.W. nearly 4
cables from the West end of Scott Island, and S.W. § S. half a mile from
Crescent Point.
SWANSON CHANNEL leads from the Haro Strait to the north-westward
between Admiral Island on the West and Pender Island on the East; pass-
ing eastward of Prevost Island it enters the Active Pass between Galiano and
302
HARO STRAIT.
Mayne Islands, thence into the Strait of Georgia; northward of Active Pass
it connects with Trincomalie Channel.
+
ADMIRAL ISLAND, separating the Stuart from the Trincomalie and
Swanson Channels, is of considerable extent, being nearly 15 miles in
length N.W. and S.E., and varying in breadth from 2 miles at its northern
end to 6 at its southern. It has two good ports, Fulford Harbour on its
south-east, and Ganges Harbour on its eastern side. The southern portion
of the island (which is a peninsula formed by the indentations of Fulford
Harbour and Burgoyne Bay, a valley separating the heads of these ports) is
composed of a lofty ridge of mountains over 2,000 feet in height, rising ab-
ruptly from all sides.
Immediately northward of the valley and over Burgoyne Bay on its
western side Mount Baynes rises to an elevation of nearly 2,000 feet, and is
very remarkable; its southern face being a perpendicular precipice, visible a
long distance from the southward or eastward. The Otter Range, of some-
what less elevation, rises northward of Mount Baynes, from whence the
island slopes away in a wedge shape, its northern termination, Southey
Point, being a sharp extreme. The island is for the most part thickly
wooded.
Fulford Harbour penetrates the S.E. side of Admiral Island in a W.N.W.
direction for 2 miles. At its entrance is Russell Island, between which
and Isabella Point, the western point of the harbour, is the best pas-
sage in.
Cecil Rock, with 2 fathoms on it, lies S.E. S. a quarter of a mile from the
S.W. point of the island. The breadth of the southern entrance is two-thirds
of a mile, with a depth of 20 fathoms until abreast North Rock, which is a
small rocky islet lying close off the North point of the harbour; a rock
which covers at quarter flood lies West of it 2 cables length, and more than
1 cable from the shore, so that strangers entering should keep rather to the
southward of mid-channel until past it. Mount Baynes appears very remark-
able from the harbour, rising immediately over its head almost as a perpen-
dicular cliff. The northern passage into the harbour between Russell Island
and Eleanor Point, though in places not more than one-third of a mile in
breadth, is a safe channel of 14 to 18 fathoms water. Louisa Rock, with only
one fathom on it, is the only danger; it lies 2 cables from the northern or
Admiral Island shore.
GANGES HARBOUR is a safe and commodious port for vessels of any
description or size. Its southern entrance, which is in the Swanson Channel
lies between Admiral and Prevost Islands, and has no dangers which are not
visible. In entering, the Channel Islets may be passed on either side; they
are two small wooded islands, 1½ mile within Beaver Point, and 2 cables from
the shore of Admiral Island.
Liddell Point, the S.W. extreme of Prevost Island, and the northern
PREVOST ISLAND.
303
entrance point of the harbour, has an uncovering reef extending 1 ca-
ble eastward of it. The Aeland Islands, two in number, lie to the west-
ward of the point along the shore of Prevost Island, between which and
them there is no ship channel. The fair channel into the harbour is between
the Channel and Acland Islands, the breadth between them is half a mile,
the depth 30 fathoms; having passed these islands the harbour is nearly 1½
mile wide, and the general depth for 2 miles, 20 fathoms.
There are but few dangers in working into the harbour, and they are
easily avoided. A rocky patch with one fathom on it lies W. N. 2 cables
from the West point of the westernmost Acland Island, and nearly the same
distance off shore. The one fathom patch is more in the track of vessels; it
lies with the southernmost Channel Islet bearing E. by S. S. nearly 2 miles,
and Peile Point, the N.W. extreme of Prevost Island, North 2 miles, and is
half a mile from the southern or Admiral Island side of the harbour; there
is a clear passage of half a mile southward of the patch in 14 fathoms.
the northward of it the passage is a mile wide.
To
A vessel may anchor as soon as 10 or 12 fathoms is found. The Chain
Islands are a group of 6 or 7 low narrow islets connected by reefs, extending
from the head of the harbour in an E.S.E. direction for 1 mile. To the
southward of these islands the ground is clear, but to the northward of them
are scattered reefs, and a vessel is not recommended to anchor on that side
within the outermost island.
Captain Passage also leads into Ganges Harbour, to the northward of
Prevost Island. It is a clear deep passage, nearly half a mile wide, with
depths from 30 to 40 fathoms, and vessels from the northward intending to
enter should always use it. There is only one danger, which is well inside
Ganges Harbour, and is almost equally in the track of vessels working up by
the southern passage; it is a small patch of 2 fathoms lying 3 cables S.W.
by W. from the western entrance point of Long Harbour.
Long Harbour may be almost considered as part of Ganges Harbour.
It is a long, narrow creek, its general breadth being 2 to 3 cables, running
parallel with and eastward of the latter for 3 miles. Its entrance is between
two sloping, rocky points, similar to each other on the North side of Captain
passage. At a quarter of a mile within the entrance is a high, bare islet,
which must be passed on its South side; one mile within is another island,
somewhat similar, which may be passed on either side. At the head of the
creek is a snug place for a ship to repair, &c., but as a harbour it is only
adapted to steamers or coasters, and, with the good and easy anchorage of
Ganges Harbour so close, there would appear to be no reason to recommend
this contracted and inconvenient one.
PREVOST ISLAND, lying in the centre of Swanson Channel, is mode-
rately high, thickly wooded, and of an irregular shape. It is 3 miles long,
in a N.W. and S.E. direction, 1 mile in breadth, and on its southern and
304
HARO STRAIT.
western sides it is indented by several bays and creeks; its northern side is
almost a straight cliffy shore.
Ellen Bay, on the S.E. side of Prevost, between Liddell and Red Islet
Points, is three-quarters of a mile deep, by one-third in breadth, and affords
fair anchorage with all but south-easterly winds in 10 fathoms mud. An-
nette and Glenthorne Creeks, on the western or Ganges Harbour side, are
curious, narrow indentations, running into the island for a mile in an E. by
S. direction. James Bay, in the N.W. side of the island, and on the South
side of Captain Passage, offers anchorage in 10 fathoms for one or two ves-
sels of moderate size with southerly winds. Hawkins Island is a small rocky
islet, with a few bushes on it, lying close off a remarkable white shell-beach
on the N.E. side of Prevost Island. From 2 to 3 cables W. N. of its
north-western point, are the Charles Rocks, three smooth-topped rocks, noc
marked by kelp, and uncovering towards low water.
ACTIVE PASS.-From Discovery Island in the southern entrance of Haro
channel, to the sand heads of Fraser River, by the Active Pass, is just 40
miles, and the line is almost a straight one. By adopting this route, not only
the most dangerous and inconvenient part of the Haro Strait is avoided, viz.
its northern entrance abreast of the East point of Saturna Island and
Patos Island, where the tides are strong and apt to set a vessel down
Rosario Strait, or over on the eastern shore, but a distance of nearly 10 miles
is saved.
After entering Swanson Channel (page 301) between Admiral and Pender
Islands, steer to the eastward of Prevost Island. From Portlock Point, the
south-eastern bluff of Prevost, the entrance of the pass bears N. by W.
W. 13 mile. The southern point of entrance, Helen Point, is low, bare,
and of a yellowish colour; over its northern side rise the high, stony
hills, on the southern side of Galiano Island. The entrance itself does not
become very apparent until it is approached within a mile.
If over-
taken by night, or waiting for tide, Otter Bay, on the West side of Pender
Island, is a good stopping-place; it is a mile North of Mouatt Point, and 23
miles E.N.E. of the Channel Islands in Ganges Harbour; a very fair anchor-
age is to be had in the centre of the bay, in 8 fathoms, and no dangers.
Ellen Bay in Prevost Island might also be used, but the former is preferred.
There are few dangers to be avoided in passing from Swanson Channel
through the pass; the principal of them is the Enterprise Reef, two danger-
ous patches which lie off the West side of Mayne Island.
In passing up Swanson Channel, keep Pelorus Point, the eastern extreme
of Moresby Island, open of Mouatt Point, the western extreme of Pender
Island. These two points, just touching, lead very close on to the reef,
but open they clear it 1 cable. If coming out of Navy Channel, a vessel
should keep over for Prevost Island until these marks are open. When Helen
Point bears N. by E., the reef is cleared, and the entrance may be steered
ACTIVE PASS.
305
for. There is a passage inside Enterprise Reef which may be taken when
both the kelp patches can be seen.
On the western side of Swanson Channel, the uncovering rock, 1 cable
eastward of Liddell Point, must be avoided, and the points northward of it,
Red and Bright Islands, should be given a berth of a cable.
Active Pass runs in an E.N.E. direction for 1½ mile, and then turns N.
for the same distance, fairly into the Strait of Georgia. The average breadth
of the channel is about one-third of a mile, and its general depth about 20
fathoms. There are no hidden dangers, but the great strength of the tides,
together with the absence of steady winds, renders it unfit for sailing vessels,
unless, indeed, small coasters; for steamers it is an excellent channel,
and a vessel commanding a speed of 8 knots may take it at any time
without fear.*
A quarter of a mile within the southern entrance, and very close off the
northern shore, is a rock which uncovers at half tide. This is the only dan-
ger, and cannot be said to be in the track of vessels; in passing to the west-
ward, however, against the flood, a vessel should keep rather on the south-
ern side, as the tides set over towards this rock.
Miners Bay, on the South side of Active Pass, where it takes the sharp
turn to the northward, affords anchorage, if necessary; but a vessel must
go close in to get 12 fathoms, and then she is barely out of the whirl of
the tide.
In entering or passing out of the northern entrance, the point of Gossip
Island, on the West, and also Georgia Point, on the East, should be given
a good berth; indeed, the best directions which can be given are to pass.
through in mid-channel. From thence the sand heads of Fraser River bear
N. by W. W. distant 11 miles. The sand head buoys are visible at 2 or
3 miles.
Tides.—The flood-tide in Active Pass sets from West to East, or from the
Swanson Channel into the Strait of Georgia; and the ebb, in the contrary
direction.
The velocity during springs is sometimes 7 knots; at ordinary tides, from
3 to 5. In the northern entrance there is sometimes a heavy tide ripple,
caused by a patch of 7 and 9 fathoms, and by the meeting of the tide
through the pass with that in the strait.
* H.M.S. Termagant passing through Active Pass in July, 1860, ran on to Laura Point,
on the South side, from refusing to answer her helm in making the turn to the northward,
the tide at the time favourable, and running about 4 knots. H.M.S. Plumper and Alert
were ahead and astern of her at the time. The Termagant's draught was 18 feet, and she
sat 5 feet by the stern: an under current striking her heel was probably the cause.
H.M. steam ships of equal size and greater length had passed through previously on several
occasions.
North Pacific.
X
306
HARO STRAIT.
TRINCOMALIE CHANNEL commences at Active Pass, from the southern
entrance of which its general direction is W.N.W. for 24 miles, when it
enters the Dodd Narrows.
Like all the inner channels already described, this one must be classed
as essentially a channel for steamers or coasters; it can only be used with
advantage by vessels bound to the eastern ports of Vancouver Island below
Nanaimo, or by such as choose to enter Nanaimo itself by that contracted
pass the Dodd Narrows.
•
The eastern side of the channel is formed by the long narrow islands of
Galiano and Valdes, and the western by Admiral, Kuper, and Thetis
Islands. Some smaller islands are scattered over it, and there are also
several rocks which require to be known and avoided, nevertheless, with
the assistance of the chart, and these directions, it is a desirable and safe
channel for the class of vessels before mentioned. The general depth of
water is not inconvenient for anchorage if necessary, as it rarely exceeds 30
fathoms, and from 12 to 18 fathoms can generally be found at a convenient
distance from the shore. Montague Harbour, on the western side of
Galiano Island, is a good stopping place, also Clam Bay on the East side of
Thetis Island.
There are two passes leading into the Strait of Georgia, viz., the Portier
and Gabriola; both are intricate and dangerous unless to those perfectly
acquainted with them, and the tides are so strong, and varying in their set,
that they cannot be said to be applicable to the general purposes of navi-
gation, and few vessels would be justified in using them, unless in cases of
emergency.
Montague Harbour, is formed between the S.W. side of Galiano Island,
and Parker Island, and its entrance, between Phillimore Point and the
small island of Julia, is 12 mile W.N.W. from the West entrance of Active
Pass. The entrance is but little over a cable in breadth, but has deep
water, and is free from danger. Immediately within the points it widens
out to a quarter of a mile, and anchorage may be obtained in 8 to 10 fathoms
in the arm which leads to the harbour. There is a narrow passage to the
north-westward from this harbour into the Trincomalie Channel.
Several smaller islands extend W.N.W. of Parker Island, viz., Sphinx,
Charles, Wise, and Twin Islands, the latter two rather remarkable rocky
islets about 30 feet high.
Atkins Reef lies on the western side of Trincomalie Channel, one-third
of a mile from the shore of Admiral Island, and in the track of vessels
working up or down. It is a cable in extent, and covers at 4 feet flood, its
neighbourhood being marked by kelp, which, however, is rarely seen when
there is any ripple on the water. The reef bears from Peile Point the N.W.
end of Prevost Island W. by N.
S. E. 1 mile.
N. 3 miles; from the Twin Islands
WALKER HOOK-HOUSTON PASSAGE.
307
Walker Hook is formed by a peninsula or tongue of land projecting
from Admiral Island, 4 miles westward of the Captain Passage. On its
south-east side is fair anchorage for small vessels in 6 fathoms, but a shoal
patch marked by kelp lies 2 cables eastward of the south-east point of the
peninsula.
3
Governor Rock is a dangerous rocky patch lying almost in the centre of
Trincomalie Channel. It has 4 feet on it at low water, is about half a cable
in extent, and though kelp grows on it, yet it is very difficult to make out
until quite close to. From Twin Island it bears W. & S. 13 mile; from the
S.E. point of Walker Hook N.W. by N. 1 mile; and from Quadra Hill
S.S.W. This hill cannot be mistaken; it rises from the centre of Galiano
Island to the height of 746 feet, and a remarkable white basaltic cliff will
be seen on the coast immediately southward of it.
Walker Rock lies North two-thirds of a mile from Governor Rock, and
is scarcely less dangerous, except that it uncovers at half ebb. From Twin
Island it bears W. by N. N. 13 mile, from Quadra Hill S.W. by S., and
is distant two-thirds of a mile from the shore of Galiano Island.
These two rocks are the principal dangers to be avoided in the Trincomalie
Channel; they are both steep-to, and may be passed if necessary at half a
cable's length.
Directions. In passing up or down Trincomalie Channel, vessels may
either take the passage southward of Governor Rock, or that between it and
Walker Rock, or northward of the latter. If taking the southern passage,
after having cleared Atkins Reef, Walker Hook, and the shore of Admiral
Island, which is bold, should be kept aboard within half a mile, until
Quadra Hill bears N.E., when they will be to the westward of both rocks,
and may steer over towards the S.E. end of Narrow Island, giving it a berth
of at least a quarter of a mile, as a reef extends off it.
If passing northward of Walker Rock when bound westward up the
channel, keep Parker and Wise Islands aboard within half a mile; there
are no dangers off them. When abreast Twin Island, which may be passed
within two cables, haul in to the northward until Mount Sutil, on the
southern end of Galiano Island is well open northward of Twin, or until
the mountain is on with Charles Island. Run up with these marks on
astern (which will lead well inside Walker Rock) until Quadra Hill bears
N.E. by E.
Coming down Trincomalie Channel, and desiring to pass northward of
Walker Rock, keep over on the Galiano Island shore until the N.E. point
of Thetis Island is shut in by the South point of Hall Island. As long as
these points are not opened a vessel will be northward of the rock, and when
Quadra Hill bears North, she will be well eastward of both it and the Go-
vernor Rock.
HOUSTON PASSAGE leads from the Trincomalie into Stuart Channel.
x 2
308
HARO STRAIT.
Vessels intending to take it had better pass up southward, or inside the
Governor Rock. The entrance is between the N.E. point of Admiral Island
and Narrow and Secretary Islands; there are no dangers.
Southey Point is the sharp northern extreme of Admiral Island, and may
be approached to a cable's length to the northward. At half a mile S.S.W.
of it is the Grappler Reef described in page 301; round it Houston Passage
turns abruptly to the southward, and Stuart Channel may be entered either
by the main passage between North Reef and Admiral Island, or if neces-
sary, between North Reef and Tent Island. Give North Reef a moderate
berth, as a shoal ridge of rocks extends one-third of a mile off its N.W. and
S.W. ends (page 300).
PORTIER PASS separates Galiano from Valdes Island, and is the first
outlet into the Strait of Georgia, northward of Active Pass, from which it
is distant 14 miles. The pass, though short (not exceeding a mile from its
southern entrance until fairly in the strait) is narrow, and is rendered still
more so by sunken rocks on its western side. The tides are very strong,
running from 4 to 7 knots, and overfalls and whirling eddies are always to
be met in the northern entrance. No vessel but a steamer commanding a
speed of 8 knots is recommended to take it unless in a case of emergency.
The first danger in the southern entrance is Black Rock, just awash at high
water. It is on the western side of the pass E.S.E. 13 cable from Native
Point, the N.W. entrance point, and is easily avoided.
The second and principal danger is the Virago Rock, almost in the centre
of the channel, but rather on the western side. It only uncovers at low
tides, and bears from Native Point E. by N. 1 N. 2 cables, and from Race
Point, the centre projecting point on the East side of the pass S.W. by W.
a little over 2 cables, which is the least breadth of the passage. The third
danger is a 2-fathom rocky patch, extending from one of the outer East
points of the pass, bearing from Race Point N.N.E. E., a third of a mile,
and from Tongue Point, the outer East point, W. by N. & N. 3 cables'
lengths; this patch is covered with kelp, which is generally visible.
Directions.—At any stage of the flood stream a steam-vessel acquainted
with the channel might pass out into the Strait of Georgia with facility.
The eastern shore should be always kept aboard within a cable's length
until beyond Race Point, which should be passed close, after which a vessel
with the flood stream should make for Canoe Islet, a bare yellow rock about
20 feet high N.N.W. two-thirds of a mile distant, in order to clear the two-
fathom patch. Canoe Islet is clear of danger on its western side, but its
eastern should not be approached within 3 cables' lengths.
In passing out of the channel with the ebb-tide, the great danger to be
avoided is the violence of the stream setting against and round Race Point,
which, if a vessel have not sufficient power to stem, will either take her on
the port bow and set her on the point, or, which is still more probable, on the
CLAM BAY-DODD NARROWS.
309
starboard, and set her on Virago Rock, as was the case on one occasion with
H.M. steam-vessel of that name.
Entering Trincomalie Channel from the Strait of Georgia by this pass, a
vessel should keep a third of a mile eastward of Canoe Islet, and then steer
for Race Point, due allowance being made with the flood for the 2-fathom
patch; if with the ebb, Race Point should be kept close aboard to avoid
being set on Virago Rock, and having passed the point, hug the eastern
shore, which is clear of danger. The rule on all occasions should be to
avoid the western shore; the great strength of the tide ceases immediately
on clearing the entrance points either way. From the Strait of Georgia the
pass is always easily recognized at the distance of several miles, by the gap
formed by its sloping wooded entrance points terminating in two low ex-
tremes from most points of view overlapping each other. Steer for the
entrance on a bearing about S. by W.
Tides.-The flood tide runs from Trincomalie Channel to the northward
into the Strait of Georgia, and the ebb in the contrary direction. The ebb
stream commences from one hour to one hour and a half before it is high
water by the shore, and runs for one hour after low water, or from 7 to 8
hours. The high water at the full and change of the moon occurs about 6
p.m., but is not very regular.
CLAM BAY is on the eastern sides of Thetis and Kuper Islands, opposite
to Portier Pass. The continuation of the bay separates these two islands at
high water, when there is a boat channel into Telegraph Harbour (p. 301),
on their western side. A remarkable white spit point of broken clam shells,
seen from a long distance, forms the southern entrance point of the bay;
immediately southward of it is a considerable native lodge. Leech Island, off
the northern point, is a small wooded islet. Centre Reef, with 7 feet on it,
and marked by kelp, lies almost in the centre of the entrance.
The best passage into Clam Bay from the eastward is northward of Nar-
row, Secretary, and Indian islands, between them and Hall Island. After
passing Indian Island steer in for White Spit, giving it a berth of a cable,
and anchor in 6 fathoms in the centre of the bay, the spit bearing East, and
Leech Island N.N.W.
There is fair anchorage on the western side of Valdes Island, 2 miles
above Portier Pass, immediately off a yellow cliff. Eight fathoms, sandy
bottom, will be found with the cliff bearing N.W. by N. distant a quarter
of a mile.
DODD NARROWS may be said to commence above Round Island (page
300), although the narrowest part is a mile distant from it. To small
vessels or steamers of sufficient power that obey their helm quickly, this
narrow pass offers no dangers. The strength of the tide at its greatest
rush is above 8 knots, the least depth of water 7 fathoms, and the nar-
rowest part of the channel is 80 yards wide; but this is for a short distance,
310
HARO STRAIT.
and the pass being nearly straight, a vessel is carried through in a few
moments.
If bound through Dodd Narrows, and having to wait for tide, there is fair
anchorage with but little tide, westward of Round Island in 6 fathoms, mid-
way between it and the shore.
In proceeding for Dodd Narrows from abreast Portier Pass, the mid-
channel course is W.N.W. for about 3 miles, or until Ragged Island and
Reef Point of Thetis Island are in one bearing S.W. by S.
The most direct course is northward of Danger Reef, between it and
Tree Island; the latter is a small round wooded islet lying off the South
end of De Courcy Islands. This passage is two-thirds of a mile wide, with
a depth of 25 to 30 fathoms.
Danger Reef (page 301) should not be approached within a cable where
there are 9 fathoms; if the reef should not be seen, it is recommended to
pass Tree Island at the distance of a quarter of a mile. There is deep water
between it and De Courcy Islands.
The passage between White Rock and Danger Reef is likewise a very
good one; it is three-quarters of a mile wide, with a depth of 20 to 30
fathoms.
In passing up, keep on the starboard or eastern side of Round Island at
a convenient distance; the only directions necessary after this are to keep
in mid-channel, and to attend the steerage quickly and carefully. Imme-
diately through the Narrows the tide ceases, and a vessel will be in North-
umberland Channel, a fine wide passage leading to, and only 5 miles from,
the anchorage at Nanaimo.
In taking the Narrows from the northward, be careful not to mistake
the False Narrows, which are on the port or northern side of Northumber-
land Channel, and are much wider than the real pass, but nearly dry at low
water. The Dodd Narrows are not so easy to pass from the North as from
the South, as in the former case the slight bend that has to be made must
be made immediately on entering the narrow part. The tides should be
studied in passing either way. It is rot recommended to attempt it with the
full rush of the stream; an hour before or after low water there is no diffi-
culty to a steam-vessel.
It is high water in the Narrows on full and change days at 3h 30m p.m.,
and low water at 9h 30m a.m., and on those days the flood stream commences
at low water, and runs about seven hours. The first of the flood is the best
time to pass the Narrows. Vessels leaving Nanaimo and intending to pass
down, should be at the Narrows an hour before high or low water, as the
tides are nearly an hour earlier at the Narrows.
PYLADES CHANNEL.-The De Courcy Islands are a group extending
4 miles in an E.S.E. direction from Mudge Island, which separates the
False from Dodd Narrows, and on their northern side, between them and
•
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
311
Valdes Island, is Pylades Channel, which leads by the Gabriola Pass into
the Strait of Georgia, as well as to the entrance of the False Narrows. The
average breadth of the channel is a mile, with a depth of 35 fathoms, and
at its head, near the entrance to the False Narrows, is good anchorage in 9
fathoms, convenient for vessels intending to take the Gabriola Pass and
waiting for tide.
False Narrows are full of kelp, and shoal at low water, affording only a
boat passage into Northumberland Channel. The passages between the De
Courcy Islands are deep and navigable; that between the North and Middle
Island is half a mile wide, and free from danger. The narrow pass between
the Middle and South Island is scarcely a cable wide, but has a depth of 5
fathoms.
GABRIOLA PASS, between the South end of Gabriola Island and the
North end of Valdes Island, is not recommended, unless for coasting vessels
knowing the locality, or steamers, if necessary, for it is a narrow and intri-
cate channel, something of the same character as Dodd Narrows, except that
it is a much longer reach. Its direction is E.N.E. for little over a mile, its
narrowest part is not over 250 yards in breadth, and the shoalest water is 6
fathoms; half a mile E.N.E. from this narrow, the course changes to S.E.
by E., leaving a narrow ridge of low wooded islands on the starboard hand,
off which a chain of covering rocks marked by kelp extend for nearly two
cables; two-thirds of a mile on this course leads into the Strait of Georgia,
when the Gabriola Reefs must be avoided. These latter are an extensive
group of rocks, uncovering at low water, at 1 mile eastward of the Flat-top
Islands. Much broken ground exists in their neighbourhood, and it is
desirable to give them a good berth.
The north-eastern side of Vancouver Island will be described hereafter.
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
This extensive island has a similar relation to the Pacific Ocean to what
the south-western part of England has to the Atlantic, and in many respects
their climates resemble each other. But the physical characteristics of the
two are widely different. The rugged coasts of Vancouver Island rise
steeply from the water, backed by rounded hills, covered with the monoto-
nous pine groves, beyond which, and traversing the island, a loftier range
of bare rugged mountains culminate in a series of irregular peaks.
It is about 252 miles long, varying from 50 to 65 miles in breadth, and
has an area of about one-fourth of that of England and Wales. On its S. W.
face it is very deeply indented by those singular inlets so characteristic of
the adjacent mainland. There is very much land quite unfit for cultivation
312
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
or colonization, but in some of the valleys and along a portion of the river
banks are tracts of surpassing fertility. From its geographical position,
exposed to the full scope of the westerly winds which prevail over the
Pacific, the mountains, intercepting the rain clouds, furnish an abundant
and never-failing supply of water, which may be certainly found at every
valley or beach. The forests afford some of the finest timber in the world,
whether as the largest and straightest spars for ships or for building pur-
poses, and a large and increasing trade is rising around the saw-mills, which
are established in various parts. At the same time the rocky and barren
shores are covered in many places with a stunted growth of useless wood.
Of other supplies, the natives in the districts away from the European
settlements, will bring deer, grouse, salmon, halibut, rock-cod, and other
fish, in moderate quantities and for reasonable prices, in exchange for blan-
kets, common sheets, knives, tobacco, &c. Copper and iron have been found
but not worked, especially in Barclay Sound. Traces of gold have also been
met with.
Coal is one of the most important of the possessions of Vancouver Island,
and appears to exist in vast quantities. It was first discovered at Nanaimo,
from Indian report, by Mr. Joseph McKay, in May, 1850. In September
following the same seam, called Douglas seam, was discovered on Newcastle
Island, in Nanaimo Harbour. Its general thickness is from 6 to 7 feet, with
from 8 to 10 inches of fine clay running through the centre. Other and
larger seams than this were soon afterwards discovered, and still further
examination has demonstrated that there is an unbounded supply, which is
now very extensively worked.
Captain W. Colquhoun Grant, F.R.G.S., its first colonist, in 1843 made
an elaborate examination of the capabilities of the island in its original
uncolonized state, and in few words his views are thus: The whole centre
of the island—as far as it has been at present explored-may be said to be
a mass of rock and mountain, and of the little available land which is found
in patches along the sea-coast, by far the greater part is densely covered with
timber, the removal of which would be so laborious as to make the bringing
of the said land under cultivation scarcely a profitable undertaking. The
little open land which there is, however, is in general rich, and had the
British Government thrown the island open to the exertions of individual
enterprise, the greater portion of such open land would doubtless, ere this,
have been settled. It is not, however, always that the wooded land is
capable of cultivation along the sea-coast; on the contrary, the reverse is
the rule; the greater portion of the land on the southern, and nearly all on
the western coast, as far as it has yet been examined, consisting of barren
rock, barely affording sufficient holding ground to the stunted timber with
which it is covered.
His opinion of the climate, too, is not very cheerful. He says: The
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
313
climate, as usual on the coast of the Pacific, is divided into two seasons of
dry and rainy, or, as Père Accolti, the Jesuit priest of Oregon, expressed it,
"Huit mois d'hiver, et quatre d'enfer;" he added two months, however, to
the winter for the benefit of Oregon. On Vancouver Island it generally
rains and snows from October to March, and during the rest of the year a
parching heat prevails, which dries up all the small streams. In the com-
mencement of autumn dense fogs prevail, inveloping everything in obscurity,
and preventing, as I think, the rays of the sun from having a due vivifying
effect on the crops.
The prevailing winds along the coast in winter are from the S.E., varying
from that to the S.W., and with occasional heavy northerly gales; the pre-
vailing winds in the summer are from the North and N.W. Generally
speaking, the climate is both agreeable and healthy; and not a single death
that I am aware of has occurred among adults from disease during the six
years that I have been acquainted with the island.*
Dr. Rattray gives the following characteristics of the different seasons in
the South part of the island. The spring is short, and lasts from the begin-
ning of March to the end of April or beginning of May. In early March
the weather undergoes a marked change, and a drier and milder climate
forms a decided contrast to the cold and wet winter months which precede
it. Towards the end of April fine weather has fairly set in, with mild dry
S.W. winds.
The summer begins with May and ends with September. Rain falls sel-
dom and never heavily; fogs and mists are rare; sometimes the heat is
excessive. The autumn, which lasts during October and November, pre-
sents a marked change. Cold and moist northerly winds succeed the dry
southerly breezes of summer. Fogs begin in October, and occasionally
during the latter part of September; but periods of fine mild weather, some-
times lasting ten days or a fortnight, form what is called the "Indian
summer."
During the winter, which lasts from the beginning of December to the end
of February, cold moist northerly and southerly winds prevail, with frequent
rain and fogs. Snow is uncommon and never heavy; ice is seldom more
than an inch thick.
The following remarks are from the Vancouver Island Pilot :—
Currents. A southerly current has been found to prevail on the western
coast of Vancouver Island more or less throughout the year, particularly
from August to November, probably in some measure caused by the N.W.
winds which blow constantly during the summer. This current joining the
ebb tide out of Fuca Strait has been known to set vessels between 4 and
* See Journal Royal Geographical Society, vol. xxvii. pp. 268-320.
314
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
5 miles an hour to the southward, and during fogs there is great risk of
being drifted on to Cape Flattery, or some of its off-lying dangers; extreme
caution should therefore be observed in entering the strait at such times,
especially near the full and change of the moon, when the tides are at their
strongest.
Winds.-During summer, the prevailing winds from N.W. or S.W., take
a westerly direction within the Strait of Juan de Fuca; while the S.E: gales
of winter blow fairly out.
Although a westerly wind may be blowing within the strait, it frequently,
during the change of the seasons, blows heavily outside at the same time
from S.S.W., or sometimes suddenly changes to that direction, from a slight
easterly wind on opening the entrance, which makes that part of the coast
of Vancouver Island between Port San Juan and Bonilla Point a dangerous
lee shore to a ship without steam power.
The coast winds in summer prevail from S.W. and N.W., the former
during the early months, and the latter blow fresh and with great regularity
during June, July, and August. In September and the early part of Octo-
ber the winds are very uncertain, and there is generally a great deal of calm,
gloomy weather.
The barometer usually stands above 30.00 inches during summer; should
it fall to 29.90 a south-easterly wind, with thick rainy weather, may be ex-
pected, but of short duration, and clearing up with a westerly wind as soon
as the barometer rises.
The winter winds are S.E. or S.W., more frequently the former. They
set in towards the end of October, and continue until the middle of April.
S.E. gales are generally preceded by a short interval of calm, cloudy wea-
ther; they spring up gradually from East or E.S.E. veering to the southward,
accompanied by rain and thick weather, the barometer falling rapidly;
when the barometer becomes stationary the wind shifts suddenly to S. W.,
and blows heavily with clear weather, but frequent squalls of rain. The
barometer begins to rise immediately the wind veers to S. W., from which
quarter it generally blows from 12 to 20 hours.
The violence and duration of these S.E. gales is always proportioned to
the fall of the mercury; with the barometer at 29.50 a strong gale may be
looked for from this quarter. It seldom falls below 29.20, when very bad
weather is certain to follow. On two or three occasions in as many years it
has been known to fall to 28.90, and has been followed by S.E. gales of great
violence.
A S.E. gale sometimes springs up, though very seldom, with the barometer
above 30.00 inches. On such occasions the wind has always been preceded
by calm, cloudy weather and rain, with a high but falling barometer; such
gales are not violent and of short duration.
S.E. gales are always accompanied by thick dirty weather, and rain; they
•
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
315
seldom continue from that quarter for more than 12 or 18 hours, unless the
barometer falls very low, and almost always shift to S.W.
When the S.W. gale of winter is not preceded by the south-eastern, the
barometer seldom falls; it either remains stationary, when the gale may be
expected to continue longer, or rises slowly, when it will gradually subside
and fine weather follow. S.W. gales are accompanied by heavy banks of
clouds, and passing showers of rain, sometimes snow.
The barometer has been known to fall during winter as low as 29.45 and
has been followed by no gale or bad weather, but on such occasions there
has been a heavy fall of snow on the hills, and a sudden fall of 15 degrees
in the temperature.
A fine northerly or N.E. wind frequently occurs at intervals during the
months of December, January, and February; it is always accompanied by
a high barometer, above 30.0, and at such times a continuance for several
days together of clear, cold, frosty weather may be looked for. The baro-
meter on these occasions will sometimes rise as high as 30.70, and the fine
weather will then probably last a fortnight or more.
Fogs. Although fogs in this region are not nearly of such frequent oc-
currence as on the neighbouring coast of California, where they prevail
almost uninterruptedly during summer and as late as the middle of October,
yet from August to November they occasionally occur in Juan de Fuca
Strait, and are sometimes very dense over the entrance for several days
together. They are generally accompanied by calms or very light winds
from N.W., which renders them more dangerous to sailing vessels closing
the land.
The natives have been frequently described since the visit of Capt. Cook
to Nootka Sound first made us intimate with them; but they are disappear-
ing fast. The West coast of the island is very thinly populated, the highest
estimate of the natives not exceeding 4,000, divided into a number of very
small tribes. As a rule they are harmless and inoffensive, though in a very
few cases the crews of vessels wrecked on their coasts have been plundered
and ill-treated. They are addicted to pilfering, especially in the vicinity of
Nootka Sound, and ought to be carefully watched; this is perhaps the
worst charge that can be brought against them.
All the tribes speak a different dialect, and the Chinook jargon, which is
used at Victoria in transactions with the settlers and natives, will not be
generally understood on the West coast.
The island now forms an integral part of the colony of British Columbia,
as explained on page 272, the seat of government for the island and con-
tinent being at Victoria.
Its S.W. coast was but very little known till the publication of the fine
series of charts, the result of the elaborate survey by Capt. G. H. Richards,
R.N., in H.M.S. Plumper. To these charts and the directions which eluci-
316
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
date them we owe the following description, which is somewhat abridged,
as, for the present at least, many of the places it describes are but of little
interest to the general navigator.
The present chapter will include a description of the south-eastern and
south-western coasts of the island, leaving that portion on the Gulf of
Georgia, &c., to be given in the next chapter.
JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT has been before described, pages 251-256,
and the harbours and coast on the South side, the northern limit of the
Washington Territory, is there given. We now commence with the northern
side of the strait, continuing the description from the N.W. point of the
entrance to its junction with the Haro Strait.
PORT SAN JUAN is the first anchorage on the North shore within the
entrance of Fuca Strait. The opening, which is remarkable from seaward,
is seen for a considerable distance, and makes as a deep gap between two
mountain ranges. The centre of the entrance bears N.N.E. E. from Cape
Flattery Lighthouse, and as the light is visible from the anchorage it is
not difficult to enter or leave during night time. Off the western point, at
something more than a cable's length, is a low flat rock, named Owen Island,
awash at high water.
Observatory Rocks, at the eastern point, are high pinnacles, with two or
three trees growing on them, and some smaller rocks off, the outermost of
which lies 1 cable from the shore. At 4 cables within these rocks and 1
cable from the shore is another reef partly out of water, named Hammond
Rocks. On the North side of the port some rocks and broken ground extend
for a mile within Owen Point, and nearly 2 cables from the shore. One
rock, awash, lies N.E. E. from Owen Island, distant 4 cables, and is 23
cables from the shore. The entrance points lie E. N. and W. S. of
each other, distant nearly 1½ mile. The port runs nearly straight for 3½ miles
in a N.E. by N. direction, and carries its breadth almost to the head, which
terminates in a round beach composed of muddy sand. Gordon River empties
itself through the North end of this beach, and Cooper Inlet penetrates its
southern.
The port is entirely open to S.W. winds, during which a heavy sea rolls
in if blowing a moderate gale. There is a convenient depth of water all
over Port San Juan, from 6 to 9 fathoms, the bottom fine muddy sand. In
the outer part of the port there is generally a swell. Good anchorage will
be found about 1 mile from the head, with Owen Island bearing S.W., and
Adze Head E.S.E., in 7 fathoms.
The hill named Pandora Peak does not show as a peak within the
port.
The Coast.-From Port San Juan the shore of Vancouver Island trends
East to Sherringham Point, distant 24 miles, and presents no very re-
markable features. Providence Cove, fit for boats, lies 3 miles eastward of
SOOKE INLET-BECHER BAY.
317
San Juan; at the distance of 7 miles further East, in a small bight, is a
stream named Sombrio River. The River Jordan, a considerable stream, is
5 miles westward of Sherringham Point. Eastward of Sherringham Point
the shore curves a little to the northward, and at the distance of 4 miles is
Otter Point. The points on this side the strait are not remarkable nor
easily distinguished unless close inshore; some of their extremes are par-
tially bare of trees. Vessels running or working up the strait at night
should be careful not to get so near the North shore as to shut in Race
Island light by Beechey Head. From Otter Point the entrance to Sooke
Inlet is E. by N. N. 32 miles, the intervening coast forming rather a deep
indentation named Sooke Bay, in which yessels may anchor in fine weather
something more than half a mile from the shore in 8 fathoms.
SOOKE INLET is a remarkable sheet of water; its entrance is little over
half a mile in breadth, and leads by a narrow and tortuous channel 3 miles
in length, and in a general North direction to a beautiful land-locked basin,
nearly 2 miles in extent, in an East and West direction, and 1 mile North
and South, with a depth of from 8 to 16 fathoms all over it. It is not likely,
however, to become a harbour of much importance.
Vessels may anchor in 10 fathoms half a mile off the entrance, and, if
necessary
for shelter, may with a fair wind run inside Whiffin Island, where
there is sufficient space to anchor.
Whiffin Island is low, gravelly, and always connected with the western
entrance. Its eastern point bears N.N.E. three-quarters of a mile from the
centre, between the two entrance points; it must be rounded close, leaving
it on the port hand, as a reef lies only half a cable eastward of it. On
rounding the point drop the anchor at a cable's length within in 8 fathoms;
here there is a space of deep water 2 cables in extent.
Secretary Island, small and wooded, lies 13 cable off Possession Point, a
mile south-eastward of Sooke Inlet. There is a depth of 16 fathoms be-
tween it and the main shore, and from it Beechey Head bears E. S. 21
miles, with a bold steep shore between, and deep water close-to.
BECHER BAY.-Beechey Head is a bold wooded cliff, forming the West
entrance point of Becher Bay, Cape Church being the eastern one. The
breadth of the entrance is something over a mile, and off the eastern side
are several small wooded islands, named Bedford Islands. The depth of
water at the entrance varies from 20 to 50 fathoms, rocky and irregnlar
bottom. At three-quarters of a mile within in a northerly direction are
Wolf and Frazer Islands, with some small islets off them; between these
two islands, which lie East and West of each other, Frazer being on the
eastern side, is the channel 4 cables wide to the anchorage; it then takes a
north-easterly direction for three-quarters of a mile, where anchorage in 10
fathoms may be had, with the centre of Frazer Island bearing S.S.W., dis-
tant a quarter of a mile.
318
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
Becher Bay cannot be recommended as a good anchorage; it affords no
great shelter with southerly or westerly winds, and vessels outward bound
had far better wait a fair wind in Parry Bay to the northward of Race
Islands. Vessels bound up the strait should pass the land about Beechey
Head at the distance of 2 miles, if intending to go outside the Race Islands.
Steamers intending to take the Race passage may pass Cape Church about
half a mile distant, and keep the land aboard about that distance until up
with Bentinck Island, when the latter should be closed and kept within a
quarter of a mile or just outside the kelp. The passage between Bentinck
Island and the Vancouver shore is choked with rocks, and strong tides run
both inside and outside.
RACE ISLANDS are a cluster of low bare rocks, the outermost of which
lies a mile S.E. of Bentinck Island at the S.E. point of Vancouver Island.
They occupy more than half a mile in entent, North and South, and the
same East and West. The outermost and largest, or Great Race, is 11
cable in extent and 25 feet high; the others are smaller, a few feet above
high water or awash. The tides among them run from 3 to 6 knots, and
during bad weather heavy and dangerous races occur. The outer rock should
be given a berth of a mile, at which distance from 40 to 50 fathoms of water
will be found; it may, if necessary, however, be rounded at a less distance,
the most off-lying danger being the Rosedale Rock, with 5 feet on it, lying
S.E. by E. from the Great Race distant 4 cables. In light winds a sailing
vessel should give these islands a good berth, especially when eastward of
them, as the ebb sets strongly towards them.
Race Island Lighthouse, on Great Race Rock, consists of a keeper's
dwelling of stone with a tower of the same material, the latter being painted
with alternate horizontal black and white bands. It exhibits, at an eleva-
tion of 118 feet above the mean level of the sea, a white light of the second
order, which shows a flash every ten seconds, visible in clear weather at a
distance of 18 miles. Lat. 48° 17′ 45″ N., long. 123° 32′ 15″ W.
Race Passage is a clear channel, 4 cables in breadth, between the Race
Rocks and Bentinck Island, with a depth of not less than 14 fathoms. This
passage may be taken by a steamer; but it is not recommended for a sailing
vessel under ordinary circumstances, on account of the strength of the tides,
and races caused by the irregular rocky nature of the bottom. The course
through is N.N.E. and S.S.W.
After rounding Race Island Lighthouse at the distance of a mile, the
course for Esquimalt Harbour is N. W. 8 miles. The lighthouse on
Fisgard Island is very conspicuous, and will be seen immediately on round-
ing the Race Islands; a course direct for it will clear all dangers, but atten-
tion must be paid to the set of the tides. The ebb runs almost directly from
the Haro and neighbouring straits towards the Race Islands, and a sailing
vessel, unless with a commanding wind, should give them a berth of more
BENTINCK ISLAND-PARRY BAY.
319
than a mile. The flood sets in the opposite direction to the N.E., and with
light winds vessels are liable to be carried to the eastward.
By night, when Fisgard Island light bears N. by W., a vessel may steer
boldly for it. The only precaution necessary is to keep the white light in
full view.
Entering Esquimalt Harbour, the Fisgard Island light should be left from
1 to 2 cables on the port hand; when it bears N.W. by W. W. the light
ૐ
changes from white to red, and shows the latter colour within the harbour;
and when it bears S. by W. at a convenient distance, a vessel may anchor
in 7 fathoms, or stand into Constance Cove if preferred. The Scroggs Rocks,
on the eastern side of the entrance of the harbour must be avoided; they
bear E.S.E. from Fisgard Island distant nearly 4 cables.
The entrance of Victoria Harbour being only 2 miles eastward of Esqui-
malt, the same precautions are necessary as regards the tides. The course
from a mile off the Race Islands is N. E.; during daytime Christ Church,
a conspicuous white building with a spire, and standing on an eminence,
will be seen shortly after rounding these islands, bearing N. by E. It
should be kept just on the starboard bow. At night, or during bad weather,
it is strongly recommended not to run for this harbour; but if it is decided
to run for Victoria, it must be borne in mind that when Fisgard Island
light changes from white to red, a vessel will be very near the shore.
Bentinck Island, lying close off the S.E. point of Vancouver Island, is
little over half a mile in extent, irregularly shaped, and 100 feet high, being
almost divided in the centre by a narrow neck.
Between Bentinck Island and Esquimalt Harbour, a distance of 8 miles,
the coast is indented by several bays, and anchorage may be obtained in 8
to 10 fathoms anywhere within a mile of the shore, except immediately
off Albert Head. The only danger is a reef lying about a cable's length off
the head.
Pedder Bay, the first of these indentations, has its entrance immediately
northward of Bentinck Island, 2 miles N.N.W. of the Great Race, between
Cape Calver and William Head, where its breadth is three-quarters of a
mile. The inlet runs to the W.N.W. for 2 miles, narrowing rapidly, and
when half a mile within is only fit for small craft, which may find good
shelter at its head. Vessels of any size may anchor in the entrance in 7
fathoms.
Parry Bay, immediately northward of William Head, affords good an-
chorage with all westerly winds. Vessels bound to sea and meeting with a
strong wind from this quarter are recommended to return here; the an-
chorage is in 9 fathoms, from half to three-quarters of a mile off the sandy
beach, with William Head bearing S.W. by S. about the same distance.
Albert Head, the North point of the bay, is moderately high, sloping to
the sea, bare of trees at its extreme, but wooded immediately behind; a
320
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
reef lies a cable off it. William Head somewhat resembles it, but is lower.
The water is too deep for anchorage immediately off these heads.
ROYAL BAY or ROADS, of which Albert Head is the southern point,
and the entrance of Esquimalt Harbour, the northern limit, is a fine sheet
of water 3 miles in extent, and affords good anchorage with all winds which
would prevent a vessel from entering that harbour. A vessel may anchor
anywhere within three-quarters of a mile from the western shore. A good
berth is a mile South of Duntze Head with the entrance open, or Thetis
cottage just open of Inskip Rocks (in the harbour), which is the leading
mark for clearing the Scroggs Rocks running in or out.
LIGHT.-A lighthouse is erected on Fisgard Island, a small rocky islet
25 feet high, and almost connected with the shore, forming the western
entrance point of Esquimalt Harbour; the tower is of brick whitewashed,
and is elevated 70 feet above the mean level of the sea, with a red brick
dwelling-house adjoining. The light is fixed, and of the fourth order; it
shows white when bearing from N. W. to N.W. by W. W.; red from
N.W. by W. W. to S. E., and green from N. W. to N. by E. E.
69
The white light is intended to guide a vessel in from seaward, and while
visible clears alike the western coast between Race Island and Esquimalt,
and the southern shore with its off-lying dangers, Scroggs Rocks and
Brotchy Ledge, between Duntze Head and Trial Island. The red light will
be found useful by vessels bound to Victoria or Esquimalt from the east-
ward, after rounding Trial Island it will indicate a vessel's distance from
the shore, and if bound to Esquimalt, a W.S.W. course will lead a safe dis-
tance outside Brotchy Ledge, until the light changes from red to white,
when it may be steered for, and not before. A green ray of light is thrown
up the harbour between the Whale Rock and the western shore, and leads
westward or inside the line of that rock.
ESQUIMALT HARBOUR is a safe and excellent anchorage for ships of
any size, and with the aid of the light on Fisgard Island may be entered
at all times with great facility. The entrance, which bears North 83
miles from the lighthouse on Great Race Island, is between Fisgard Island
and Duntze Head, and is 3 cables in breadth, opening out immediately
within.
The only dangers are the Scroggs Rocks, which lie on the eastern side,
S.S.E. 3 cables from Duntze Head, and cover at three-quarters flood.
Inskip Islands kept well open of the head leads clear to the westward of
them, but the best mark for entering with a leading wind is Thetis Cottage,
a conspicuous white building on Dyke Point, just open or on with the
western Inskip Rock, bearing N. by W. W., which leads in mid-channel.
Fisgard Island should not be passed within less than a cable's length,
keeping just without the kelp, which extends about half a cable eastward of
ESQUIMALT HARBOUR.
321
it, for a rock with 7 feet water over it lies three-quarters of a cable N.E. of
the lighthouse.
Vessels entering the harbour at night with a strong wind after them
should take care to shorten sail in time, as the space for rounding to is some-
what limited; and it is desirable to moor if any stay is intended, as the
winds are changeable.
The best time to leave the harbour is early in the morning, when either
a calm or light land wind may be expected. There is little strength of tide
in the harbour, or for some distance without, and it sets fairly in and out.
The strongest and most frequent gales blow from S.W. and S.E., which
are leading winds in, but rarely from N.W. The S.W. is a summer wind,
generally fresh, and brings fine weather, unless it blows a gale. South-east
winds may be looked for during the winter months, or between November
and March, and generally a strong gale once in a month with rain and thick
weather. The N.E. wind rarely blows with much strength, and always
brings fine clear weather; a direct South wind, to which some parts of the
harbour are open, seldom blows, and there is never sufficient swell to render
the anchorage inconvenient.
The Whale Rock, with only 7 feet on it at low water, lies W. N. 2
cables from Inskip Islands, or nearly midway between them and the western
shore of the harbour. This rock is of small extent, and not marked by
kelp; it has a clear passage on either side, that to the eastward being the
widest. Yew and Rodd Points, just touching, point to the rock; Yew Point,
just touching the lighthouse on Fisgard Island, S. by E. & E., leads nearly
a cable's length westward; and when Ashe Head is well shut in by Inskip
Islands, a vessel will be clear to the northward.
Anchorage. The most convenient anchorage is in Constance Cove, on the
eastern side of the harbour, immediately round Duntze Head, the general
depth being 6 fathoms, and the holding ground good; there is, however,
safe anchorage in any part of the harbour, in not less than 4½ fathoms, as
far northward as Dyke Point. A cable's length above this point the water
shoals to 3 fathoms, and from thence to the head of the harbour is a flat
with only a few feet on it at low water.
Thetis Cove in Plumper Bay, on the eastern side, immediately North of
Constance Cove, is a snug anchorage, with the harbour entrance just shut in
by Inskip Rocks in 4 fathoms; but vessels proceeding above these rocks
must take care to avoid the Whale rock.
Water may be obtained during the winter months without difficulty from
the many streams that empty themselves into the different bays, caused by
the great quantity of rain which usually falls at that season; but in summer
watering is a tedious process, and boats must be sent either to Rowe stream,
at the head of the harbour, or to the salt lagoon just outside the entrance.
Both offer difficulties, unless at or near high water.
North Pacific.
Y
322
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
Water, however, might be conveyed at all seasons, and at a trifling ex-
pense, from the chain of lakes just over the western side of the harbour,
near Colwood Farm.
VICTORIA HARBOUR is a little more than 2 miles eastward of Esqui-
malt, with its entrance between Ogden and MacLaughlin Points. Macaulay
or Sailor Point, a remarkable projection nearly midway between the two
harbours, is a bare flat point about 30 feet high, showing as a yellow clay
cliff, worn by the action of the sea and weather into a rounded nob at the
extreme. The coast on either side of this point for a mile is fringed with
sunken rocks, and is dangerous for boats in bad weather, many fatal acci-
dents having occurred.
The entrance to this harbour is shoal, narrow, and intricate, and with
S.W. or S.E. gales a heavy rolling swell sets on the coast, which renders
the anchorage outside unsafe, while vessels of burthen cannot run in for
shelter unless at or near high water. Vessels drawing 14 or 15 feet water
may, under ordinary circumstances, enter at such times of tide, and ships
drawing 17 feet have entered, though only at the top of spring tides.
The channel is buoyed, but it is necessary to take a pilot, and the space
is so confined and tortuous that a long ship has considerable difficulty in
making the necessary turn. A large per-centage of vessels entering the
port, small as well as large, constantly run aground from these causes, or
from trying to enter at an improper time of tide, or neglecting to take a
pilot. Such accidents, however, are seldom attended with more than delay
and inconvenience, as the shoalest and most intricate part of the passage is
sheltered. When within, the port is perfectly land-locked, and vessels may
lie in from 14 to 18 feet at low water, but the harbour accommodation is
limited.
Anchorage.-Vessels anchoring outside the harbour to wait for the tide,
or from other causes, should not come within a line between Ogden and
MacLaughlin Points, the former bearing W. N., the latter E. & S., mid-
way between, or a quarter of a mile from either. This is a good stopping
place with off-shore winds or fine weather, but is by no means recom-
mended as a safe anchorage for sailing vessels during the winter months,
when bad weather may be looked for with little warning.
There are three or four pilots attached to the port, who keep a good look-
out for vessels off the entrance. Pilotage is compulsory to all merchant
vessels, except coasters, but the charges are moderate.
Brotchy Ledge. About 4 cables from Holland Point, and right in the
fairway of vessels entering Victoria Harbour from the eastward, lies the
Brotchy Ledge, with 5 feet on its shoalest part; it is covered with kelp, and
about a cable in extent within the 5-fathom line. There are 9 fathoms be-
tween the ledge and the shore.
A spar buoy, painted white, marks this ledge. It lies in 12 feet water,
TRIAL ISLANDS-ENTERPRIZE CHANNEL.
323
with the beacons on Beacon Hill in line, bearing N.E. by E.; Ogden Point
N. W. distant 5 cables; and Holland Point N.E. 4 cables. The buoy is
occasionally washed away during the heavy winter gales.
Fisgard Island Lighthouse, North part of Brothers Island, and Macaulay
Point in line W. N., leads a cable North of the ledge in 9 fathoms,
between it and the shore; and the lighthouse, just open southward of
Brothers Island W. by N. ‡ N., leads 2 cables South of the ledge in 21
fathoms.
In entering or leaving Victoria Harbour, keep either of the above marks
on, till past the line of the beacons on Beacon Hill in line, when a vessel
will be clear of the ledge. Coasters, and those acquainted with the place,
usually go North of it.
The COAST from Victoria Harbour trends in an easterly direction for 2
miles to Clover Point, and is for the most part faced by white sandy cliffs,
varying in height from 10 to 80 feet; a sandy beach extends along the
whole way, and at a cable's distance off in many places are rocks and foul
ground. Two cables East of Holland Point, and a cable off shore, are the
Glimpse Reefs, which cover at three-quarters flood, and have 7 fathoms just
outside them.
Bacon Hill, a gentle rise of the land, 2 cables from the water's edge, and
a mile East of the harbour, is grassy and bare of trees; its height is 140 ft.
and there is a staff or beacon on the summit. Clover Point, at 2 miles east-
ward of the entrance to Victoria Harbour, is low, bare of trees, and project-
ing. It is steep-to, and off it are some strong tide-rips, dangerous to boats
in heavy weather. Ross Bay, to the eastward of it, is open, but sometimes
used by small craft if waiting for the tide, there being from 4 to 5 fathoms at
2 cables distance off shore. Foul Bay, nearly a mile N.E. of Clover Point, is
of small extent, and filled with rocks. Off its entrance are the Templar
Rocks, about 4 feet under water, and marked by kelp.
Trial Islands, nearly 12 miles eastward from Clover Point on the South
side of Enterprize Channel, are two in number, bare and rocky, but gene-
rally appear as one. Strong tide ripples prevail off the southern island,
especially during the flood, which runs nearly 6 knots at springs just
outside it.
Enterprize Channel, between Trial Islands and the Vancouver shore is a
narrow, tortuous, but deep channel, much used by steamers and coasters
trading to Victoria Harbour, as a slight saving of distance is effected, and
less tide experienced than by going South of the Trial Islands. Its length is
about a mile. McNeil Bay, on the North side of the channel eastward of
Foul Point, is upwards of 3 cables in extent, with from 2 to 6 fathoms water.
It is open to the southward. Mouatt Reef, in the eastern part of the chan-
nel, 3 cables from Trial Island, and nearly 2 cables off shore, is about a
Y 2
324
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
cable in extent, and covers at a quarter flood. This rock is dangerous for
vessels using the Enterprize Channel, as it lies just North of the fairway.
GONZALES POINT forms the S.E. extremity of Vancouver Island. It is
a low salient point, rocky, bare of trees, and steep-to on the East side.
Oak Bay. From Gonzales Point the Vancouver shore trends to the
northward, and at a mile from the point forms a sandy bay, which is some-
what less than a mile in extent, and affords fair anchorage near its North
part in from 3 to 4 fathoms.
CADBORO BAY, 2½ miles to the northward of Gonzales Point, is about
half a mile in extent, and open to the S.E.; no sea, however, rises within it,
and there is good anchorage in from 3 to 4 fathoms near the entrance.
Mayor Channel, to the northward of Gonzales Point, and West of Chain
Islets, is about 2 miles long in a winding direction to the northward; its
breadth in the narrowest part is 3 cables, and the soundings in it vary from
9 to 13 fathoms. The channel is bounded on the West side by Thames
Shoal and Fiddle Reef, and abreast the latter on its opposite side lies the
Lewis Reef. The tide seldom runs more than 3 knots through this channel,
and it is the one generally used. Thames Shoal, of 2 fathoms water, is of
small extent, and marked by kelp; it lies nearly half a mile N. by E. from
Gonzales Point, at the S.W. part of the Mayor Channel.
Lee Rock, which only uncovers at low-water springs, lies 1 cable west-
ward of Thames Shoal. It is marked by kelp, and steep-to on the East side.
Between this rock and Thames Shoal is Mouatt Channel, a cable wide, with
from 7 to 9 fathoms.
Fiddle Reef, at the N.W. extreme of Mayor Channel, and upwards of a
mile from Gonzales Point, is of small extent, and awash at high water spring
tides. It may be approached close-to on the East side.
Todd Rock, at 2 cables West of Fiddle Reef, in the entrance to Oak Bay,
covers at two-thirds flood, and is marked by kelp.
Lewis Reef, at the N.E. part of Mayor Channel, nearly 3 cables S.E. of
Fiddle Reef, and 2 cables West of the Chain islets, covers at high water,
and may be approached close-to on the West side. The passage between it
and Chain Islets is filled with kelp, but has not less than 2 fathoms.
CHAIN ISLETS, midway between Discovery Island and the Vancouver
shore, are a bare rocky group, three-quarters of a mile long in a westerly
direction, and half a mile wide. Spencer Ledge, off their East side, at a dis-
tance of 2 cables from the easternmost high-water rock, is marked by kelp,
and has 9 feet on its shoalest part; if going through Hecate Passage it re-
quires to be guarded against. Cadboro Point, open West of Channel Point
N.N.W. W. leads a cable East of this ledge through Hecate Passage.
Caroline Reef, at the North part of the group, and connected to it by a
rocky ledge, is of small extent, and covers at a quarter flood, but is well
out of the track of vessels using any of the channels. Foul ground, with
DISCOVERY AND CHATHAM ISLANDS.
325
from 3 to 4 fathoms, and marked by kelp, exists upwards of a cable West
of it.
DISCOVERY and CHATHAM ISLANDS.-Discovery Island is 2 miles
N.E. of Gonzales Point, at the junction of the Haro and Fuca Straits. It
is wooded, about three-quarters of a mile in extent, and its shores on all
sides are bordered by rocks. Rudlin Bay, on its S.E. side, is filled with
rocks, and should not be used by any vessel.
Chatham Islands, to the N.W. of Discovery Island, and separated from it
by a narrow boat pass, are of small extent, forming an irregular group, low
and wooded, the tide rushing with great strength through the passages be-
tween them. Leading Point, at the South extreme, is a bare rocky islet at
high water. Channel Point, their West extreme, is also bare and steep-to ;
the tide runs strong past it. Strong Tide Islet, the N.W. of these islands, is
rocky, about 50 feet high, and wooded. Its West side forms the eastern
boundary of Baynes Channel, and is steep-to. The ebb tide runs very
strongly past it, nearly 6 knots at springs. Refuge Cove, on the East side
of the Chatham Islands, is small, and has 1½ fathom in the centre; coasters
or small craft entangled among these islets may find shelter in it. Alpha
Islet, the easternmost of the group, is bare, and 10 feet above high water.
Fulford Reef, 3 cables North of the Chatham Islands, is about a cable in
extent, and covers at three-quarters flood. Vessels using the Baynes Chan-
nel should keep well to the westward to avoid this reef, as the tide sets
irregularly in its vicinity.
Hecate and Plumper Passages.-Discovery Island is separated from the
Chain Islets by a passage half a mile wide in the narrowest part, forming
an apparently clear and wide channel, but near the middle of the South
part lies Centre Rock, which has only 3 feet over it, and though marked by
kelp, this, from the strength of the tides, is often run under, and seldom
There is a deep passage on either side of this danger, the one to the
westward being called Hecate, and the eastern one Plumper Passage. The
latter is wider, and best adapted for large steamers, but the tide sets very
strongly through both of them.
seen.
Baynes Channel, between Cadboro Point and the Chatham Islands, con-
necting these inner channels with Haro Strait, is upwards of a mile long
and half a mile wide. The soundings in it are irregular, varying from 4
to 30 fathoms, and the tide at springs rushes through it with great velocity,
strongest along the eastern side.
The Five-fathom Shoal, lying in the centre of the channel, is not marked
by kelp. If wishing to avoid it, a vessel has only to keep a little over on
either side of mid-channel.
CADBORO POINT, on the Vancouver shore, at the termination of the
inner channels, is nearly 3 miles North of Gonzales Point, and three-quarters
of a mile West of the Chatham Islands. It is about 50 feet high, rocky and
326
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
bare of trees. A small islet lies just off it, also a reef which covers. In
passing do not approach the islet within 2 cables.
The coast West of Cadboro Point to Cadboro Bay is low, very much
broken, and there are some off-lying rocks. Jemmy Jones Islet, which is
bare and 15 feet above high water, lies 3 cables off shore, midway between
the two points.
None of these inner channels, though deep, should be used except by
steamers of moderate size or small craft, unless in cases of necessity. Coasters
and small steamers, when taking advantage of them, generally proceed
through the Mayor Channel. The Hecate and Plumper Passages are nearly
straight, and better adapted for large steamers than those West of the Chain
Islets.
Tides.—The high water, at full and change, is irregular, and much in-
fluenced by prevailing winds; the greatest rise and fall of tide at Discovery
Island is 12 ft. During summer months the flood stream commences at
11h 15m a.m., running with great strength till nearly 3 p.m., after which
but little tide is felt till 4 a.m. on the following day, when the ebb commences
and runs strong till nearly 11 a.m., the time of low water by the shore.
CONSTANCE BANK, lying in the Fuca Strait, nearly 6 miles S.E. by
E. E. from Fisgard Island lighthouse, 3 miles S. by W. from Trial Island,
and 7 miles N.E. from Race Island lighthouse, is upwards of a mile in
extent with 9 to 14 fathoms, but a vessel should not anchor on it.
Fonte Bank, about a mile in extent, with from 3 to 5 fathoms, and
marked by kelp, lies nearly in the middle of Fuca Strait, 6 miles S. W.
from Cattle Point, San Juan Island 8 miles E. by S. from Discovery Island,
and 8 miles W. S. from Smith or Blunt Island lighthouse. This bank
ought to be avoided, as there may be less water on it than was found.
HARO STRAIT has been described on pages 287-304. We now proceed
with the Western Coast of Vancouver Island, commencing with the coast
beyond Port San Juan, described on page 316.
The WESTERN COAST of Vancouver Island is comprised between Bo-
nilla Point, at the entrance of Juan de Fuca Strait and Cape Scott, the N.W.
extreme of the island, a distance of upwards of 200 miles. Its general
direction is W.N.W. and E.S.E., but the coast is broken into deep inlets, the
principal of which, Barclay, Clayoquot, Nootka, Kyuquot, and Quatsino
Sounds, are large sheets of water, with features similar to the other great.
inlets on this part of the American continent.
Making the Land.-When first making the land, an unbroken range of
mountains will be seen; on a nearer approach it appears thickly wooded,
and apparently fertile, intersected with many deep openings and valleys,
THE WESTERN COAST.
327
which in most cases are some of the inlets before mentioned. The coast is
generally low and rocky, but rises immediately to mountains of considerable
height. It is fringed by numerous rocks and hidden dangers, especially near
the entrances of the sounds, and the exercise of great caution and vigilance
will be necessary on the part of the navigator to avoid them, even with the
present Admiralty charts. On no occasion, therefore, except where other-
wise stated in the following pages, should a stranger attempt to enter any of
the harbours or anchorages during night or thick weather, but rather keep
a good offing until circumstances are favourable; and when about to make
the coast, it cannot be too strongly impressed on the mariner to take every
opportunity of ascertaining his vessel's position by astronomical observations,
as fogs and thick weather come on very suddenly at all times of the year,
more especially in summer and autumn months.
Tides. All along the outer coast or West of Vancouver Island it may be
said to be high water at full and change when the moon crosses the meri-
dian, viz., at noon and midnight, the tide showing considerable regularity
as compared with the inner waters, the greatest rise and fall being every-
where about 12 ft. There are two high and low waters in the 24 hours all
the year round. In summer months the superior high water is at midnight,
and in winter months at noon.
The flood stream appears to set along the coast to the north-west, and
the ebb to the south-east; neither are of great strength, except in the
vicinity of Fuca Strait and the Scott Islands. In summer months a set is
generally found to the southward, and in winter in the opposite direction,
but the currents are irregular, and influenced by prevailing winds.
Soundings. At the entrance of the Fuca Strait the 100 fathom edge of the
bank extends upwards of 30 miles off shore; it then runs nearly straight in
a N.W. by W. direction, gradually nearing the coast, and abreast Cape
Cook or Woody Point the depth of 100 fathoms will be obtained within 4
miles of the shore; to the N.W. of Woody Point the 100-fathom edge does
not extend more than 10 miles off shore, and to the southward and westward
of the Scott Island even less.
The nature of the bottom, when under 100 fathoms, appears to be gene-
rally composed of sand and gravel, and does not differ in one part from
another sufficiently to afford any guide for ascertaining a vessel's exact posi-
tion on the coast; the bank, however, extends far enough off shore to the
S.E. of Cape Cook, that if running for the coast in thick weather, the
mariner, by sounding in time, will get due notice of his approach to the land,
as the edge of 100 fathoms does not come within 18 miles of it, and the bank
shoals very gradually.
The Coast from Port San Juan runs 10 miles in a westerly direction to
Bonilla Point, rising gradually to elevations from 1,000 to 2,000 ft. Bonilla
Point, the North entrance point of Fuca Strait; is 12 miles N.N.W. of Cape
328
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
Flattery; the point slopes gradually to the sea, is not in any way remarkable,
and may be approached within one mile.
Nitinat Lake, the entrance to which is narrow and shoal, is 7 miles west-
ward of Bonilla Point. The lake is of considerable size, extending to the
northward. There are only 1 to 2 fathoms in the entrance, and the sea
generally breaks heavily across it in bad weather. Four miles to the
westward of the entrance is a remarkable water-fall, called by the natives
Tsusiat, which may be seen at a good distance, even in thick weather, when
it would help to identify a vessel's position, being the only water-fall on this
part of the coast.
Pachena Bay, 20 miles westward of Bonilla Point, is nearly 2 miles deep
in a northerly direction, and half a mile wide, with from 5 to 6 fathoms
water, but as it is open to the southward and S.W., and there is usually a
heavy swell setting into it, no vessel should anchor there.
The coast between Pachena Bay and the S.E. point of entrance of Barclay
Sound, a distance of 3 miles, is rocky, forming an open bay that affords no
shelter.
BARCLAY SOUND* is an extensive arm of the sea, 30 miles westward
of the entrance of De Fuca Strait. It is upwards of 14 miles wide at
entrance, and though encumbered by numerous islands it maintains this
breadth for nearly 12 miles inlaud, when it separates into several narrow
inlets or canals, the principal of which, the Alberni Inlet, extends 23 miles
in a northerly direction, its head reaching within 14 miles of the eastern or
inner coast of Vancouver Island. Off the entrance, and in the southern
parts of the sound, are innumerable rocks and islands, with several navigable
channels between them, which, however, ought to be used with great caution
by a stranger. The shores are low, except in the northern part and among
the canals, when they become high, rugged, and mountainous.
It is high water, full and change, in Barclay Sound, at 12h, and the rise
and fall of tide is about 12 ft.
A bank of sand and gravel, with depths from 25 to 45 fathoms, extends 20
or 25 miles to the southward and westward of the entrance of Barclay Sound.
In the middle of this bank there is a deep hole, the E. part of which is 5 miles
S.W. from the entrance; from thence the hole extends 19 miles in a W.S.W.
direction, with depths varying from 60 to 100 fathoms.
There are three navigable ship channels into Barclay Sound, viz., the
Eastern, Middle, and Western, and all require great caution in navigating ;
they will be described in their regular order.
* Barclay Sound, as it is now spelt, at the head of which the Alberni Settlement is
placed, should properly, I believe, be "Berkely," as it was named by Captain Berkely, of
the ship Imperial Eagle, who in 1787 discovered, or rather rediscovered, the Strait of Fuca.
-Capt. R. C. Mayne.
CAPE BEALE-DEER ISLANDS.
329
The Eastern Channel, on the eastern side of Barclay Sound, between the
main shore and Deer Islands, is 12 miles long in a N.N.E. direction, and its
breadth varies from 1 to 1 mile. Its shores are low and rugged, except in
the North part, which becomes high. The soundings in the entrance vary
from 18 to 22 fathoms, increasing gradually to 90 and 100 fathoms at the
North part. There are several dangers within it, the rocks off Cape Beale
and Channel Rocks at the southern part, and the Fog Rock off the East side
of Tzaartoos Island.
CAPE BEALE, the S.E. point of entrance of Barclay Sound, and of the
Eastern Channel, is 30 miles N.W. by W. W. from Cape Flattery
lighthouse. It is a bold rocky point, 120 feet high, and some rocks extend
off it, from 2 to 4 cables.
Bamfield Creek, 4 miles from Cape Beale, on the East side of the channel,
runs in 1 mile in a southerly direction; there is room for a vessel to moor
at a short distance from its head in 6 fathoms. Grappler Creek extends from
the entrance of Bamfield Creek two-thirds of a mile to the eastward. Kelp
Bay, 53 miles from Cape Beale, is two-thirds of a mile wide, a quarter of
a mile deep, and affords a fairly-sheltered anchorage in 6 to 14 fathoms.
Mark Islet, 8 miles from Cape Beale, and one cable off the East side of the
channel, is small and wooded, and conspicuous from the entrance of the
Middle Channel.
Numukamis Bay, 9 miles from Cape Beale, at the N.E. part of the East-
ern Channel, is of an oblong shape, 3 miles wide and 1 mile deep; its shores.
rise gradually to mountains from 1,000 to 2,000 ft. high. In the centre of
the bay are the San José and Reef Islets, of small extent and low.
Poett Nook, in the South part of this bay, about one mile within its
S.W. point, is a landlocked basin, about 3 cables long and 2 cables wide,
with 7 fathoms water.
Turn Island, at the N.E. point of the Eastern Channel, and dividing it
from the Alberni Channel, is small and wooded, and separated by a narrow
boat pass from the E. shore.
Ship Islet, at the S.W. point of the Eastern channel, N.W. & N., 2 miles
from Cape Beale, is 100 ft. high and rocky, with a few remarkable trees on
its northern part, which at some distance seaward give the islet the appear-
ance of a ship under sail, and form a good mark for identifying the channel.
There are from 23 to 24 fathoms at 2 cables distance from it.
DEER ISLANDS form the western boundary of the Eastern Channel, and
run N.N.E. and S.S.W. for 10 miles, with a breadth varying from one to 2
miles. They are low, and of inconsiderable size, except the northern one,
which is 1,000 ft. high in parts, and of considerable extent. There is only
one navigable passage through them, the Satellite Pass, between Helby and
Hill Islands.
King Island, the southernmost of these islands, is about one mile long and
330
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
half a mile broad. Its shores are very rugged and broken, with rocks ex-
tending from 1 to 2 cables off.
Channel Rocks, on the West side of the channel, 3 cables East of King
Island, and 1 mile E.N.E. from Ship Islet, are about 1 cable in extent, and
cover at half flood. There are 10 to 12 fathoms at the distance of a cable
to the eastward of them, and the sea generally breaks over them. They
must be carefully avoided.
Diana Island, separated from King Island by a passage full of rocks,
is of triangular shape, about 1 mile wide, and three-quarters of a mile
broad. Its shores are rocky, and at a distance of 2 cables from its E. side is
Todd Rock, awash at high water, with 16 fathoms close to it.
Entrance Anchorage.-Helby Island, the next island northward of Diana,
has off its North side a small, but well sheltered, anchorage, in from 6
to 9 fathoms, easy of access from either the Eastern or Middle Channels,
and very convenient as a stopping-place for vessels entering or leaving
Barclay Sound.
Hill Island, two-thirds of a mile North of Helby Island, and separated
from it by the Satellite Pass, is small, with a summit of moderate height at
its southern end. At a quarter of a mile South of it is a patch of 3½ fathoms
water, marked by kelp, and there are several small islets and rocks off its E.
and W. sides.
Robbers Island, separated from Hill Island by a passage full of rocks, is
2 miles long and 1 mile broad at its widest part. It is low and steep-to on
the eastern side, and between it and Tzaartoos Island is a small landlocked
basin of 5 to 7 fathoms water, but almost inaccessible.
Tzaartoos or Copper Island, the northernmost of the Deer Islands, is 43
miles long in a N.N.E. direction, and 1½ mile broad. It is higher than the
other islands, rising in many parts to 800 and 1,000 ft.; its eastern side, ex-
cept in the vicinity of Sproat Bay, is steep-to, and may be approached to 2
cables. Limestone of a fine quality is to be found in its northern part, and
there are several indications of copper and iron ores.
Sproat Bay, on the East side of Tzaartoos Island, is about half a mile wide
and 2 cables deep. In its centre are two small islets, and between them and
the southern side of the bay a vessel may anchor in from 11 to 15 fathoms.
Leading Bluff, situated just South of the bay, is a steep point 400 ft. high,
and conspicuous from the entrance of the Eastern Channel.
Fog Rock, lying about 2 cables East of Sproat Bay, is of small extent,
with only 9 ft. over it, and steep-to all round. This danger is in the track of
vessels using Sproat Bay, and requires caution to avoid it, not being marked
by kelp in the spring.
Nob Point, the S.W. entrance point of Alberni Inlet, and N.W. point of
Eastern Channel, is about half a mile to the northward of Tzaartoos Island,
ALBERNI INLET-UCHUCKLESIT HARBOUR.
331
and nearly 13 miles from Cape Beale. It is a remarkable cliffy projecting
point 476 ft. high, steep-to on its South and East sides.
ALBERNI INLET, at the N.E. part of Barclay Sound, runs in a winding
northerly direction for 22 miles, with a breadth varying from 2 cables to 1
mile, and terminates in a fine capacious anchorage at its head; the shores on
either side are rocky and rugged, rising abruptly from the sea to mountains
2,000 and 3,000 ft. high; at the head, however, the land becomes low and
fertile, a large quantity being fit for cultivation. A settlement and large saw
mills are established there, and quantities of timber exported to different parts
of the world.
The soundings to within 1 mile of the head vary from 160 to 40 fathoms,
and the shores of the inlet are everywhere free from danger. The entrance
between Nob Point and Turn Island lies at the termination of the Eastern
Channel, 13 miles N.N.E. from Cape Beale.
San Mateo Bay, on the East side of the inlet, 1 mile North`of Turn
Point, is three-quarters of a mile wide, and one mile deep. Its shores are
high, and the soundings in it vary from 20 to 50 fathoms, being too deep for
anchorage.
Mutine Point, midway between this bay and Turn Island, is rocky, and
as at a short distance off it a rock is said to exist, a berth of 2 cables ought
to be given in passing. Just South of this point is a small bay with irre-
gular soundings from 11 to 17 fathoms, which might be used as a stopping-
place.
UCHUCKLESIT HARBOUR, on the West side of the inlet, 2 miles with-
in Nob Point, is 3 miles long in a westerly direction, and its average breadth
is about half a mile; the North shore is high, rising gradually to mountains
of 2,000 and 3,000 feet, but the South shores and head are low; all are free
from danger at the distance of a cable. The soundings vary from 20 to 40
fathoms, and there are two secure anchorages, Green Cove at the entrance,
and Snug Basin at the head, with from 9 to 15 fathoms water. Limestone
of a very fine quality is to be procured at the head of the harbour, and coal
has been found.
શ
Green Cove, just within the entrance on the North side of the harbour,
affords a snug, well-sheltered anchorage in 9 to 14 fathoms. Harbour Island,
off its South side, and completely landlocking the anchorage in that direc-
tion, is of small extent, with a clear deep passage on either side into the an-
chorage. A rock lies half a cable off its S.E. point.
This anchorage is convenient as a stopping-place for vessels bound to or
from Stamp Harbour at the head of Alberni Inlet, and the entrances to it,
on either side of Harbour Island, make it available to sailing vessels or
steamers.
Steamer Passage, on the East side of Harbour Island, leads into Green
Cove. It should only be used by steamers, or sailing ships with a fair wind.
332
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
Ship Passage, which leads into Green Cove North of Harbour Island, is 4
cables long, and 2 cables wide, clear of danger, with from 11 to 20 fathoms,
and available for sailing ships unable to enter or leave Green Cove by Steamer
Passage.
On the North shore, one mile from Green Cove, is a large stream of fresh
water, with a bank extending a short distance off it.
From Uchucklesit Harbour, the Alberni Inlet trends N.E. by E. for
3 miles, and is steep-to on both sides, after which it runs N. by W. to the
head.
Nahmint Bay, on the West side of Alberni Inlet, 10 miles within its
entrance, is about half a mile in extent, with from 19 to 20 fathoms water,
and may be used as a stopping-place, if working down the inlet; a large
stream disembogues at its head.
The Second Narrows, 13 miles from the entrance of the inlet, are 3
cables wide at low water, steep-to on the West side, with 26 fathoms in
mid-channel; if passing through them at high water, keep well over to the
western shore.
The First Narrows, 18 miles from the entrance, are two cables wide at low
water, steep-to on the East side; the West side dries out one cable at low
The depth in mid-channel is 40 fathoms; and in going through them
a vessel ought to keep well over on the eastern side.
water.
Stamp Harbour, at the head of Alberni Inlet, is a capacious and secure
anchorage, 2 miles in length, and varying in breadth from 4 cables to 1 mile.
Its western shore is high and rocky, but the eastern side and head are low
and fertile, with a quantity of clear level land, almost fit for cultivation. A
stream of considerable size, the Sumass River, flows into the harbour at the
head, and is navigable for canoes several miles. It has its source in a chain
of extensive lakes in the interior of Vancouver Island, and the quantity of
water discharged from it is so great that there is a constant current out of the
inlet, often exceeding 1 knot in strength.
An extensive saw-mill has been built on the East side of Stamp Harbour,
and a small settlement formed, composed mostly of the workmen connected
with the establishment. Great quantities of the finest timber in the world
for spars are exported from this place, and vessels of considerable size may
lie close to the saw-mill without grounding, as there are 4 fathoms almost
alongside it. The anchorage in the harbour is in 8 to 12 fathoms, at the
distance of three-quarters of a mile from the head, with Observatory Islet
S.W. and the saw-mill North.
Observatory Inlet, in the centre of the harbour, is a small bare rock about
6 feet above high water. Some rocks extend half a cable North of it, but
may be approached within one cable. It is in lat. 49° 13′ 46″ N., long.
124° 50′ W.
Directions. In entering Barclay Sound through the Eastern Channel, the
4
BARCLAY SOUND-MIDDLE CHANNEL.
333
S.E. entrance point, Cape Beale, may be easily recognized from the S.E., by
the islands West of it, Ship Islet being also very conspicuous from the trees
on its North part. In approaching or rounding the cape, do not come nearer
than half a mile to avoid the rocks off it, until Turn Island at the North part
of Eastern Channel is well shut in by Leading Bluff, Tzaartoos Island, N. by
E. 3 E., when steer up the Eastern Channel with that mark on, which will
lead clear of the rocks off the West side of Cape Beale, and East of Channel
Rocks. When Ship Island bears W.S.W., the vessel will be well North of
the latter, and may then steer up mid-channel about N.N.E.; on nearing
Leading Bluff, keep the East side of Hill Island open South of it S. W. S.,
to pass East of the Fog Rock, until the West side of Nob Point comes open
East of Limestone Point N. W., when steer up within 2 cables of either
shore, or in mid-channel. If bound to Stamp Harbour, after entering the
Alberni Inlet, the only direction required is to keep mid-channel, and anchor
on the eastern side of the harbour, with the bearings already given.
After entering the Alberni, a strong southerly wind will generally be ex-
perienced, blowing home to the head; it however usually falls a little during
the night.
A steam-tug is attached to the saw-mill establishment, for the purpose of
towing vessels through the Eastern Channel; when a vessel is expected the
tug generally lies in Dodger Cove, at the entrance of Middle Channel, where
a good look-out can be kept.
If beating into the Eastern Channel, which ought only to be done by small
or quick working vessels, when standing towards Cape Beale, tack before
the passage between Turn Island and the main comes open of Leading Bluff
N.N.E. Ship Islet may be approached to a quarter of a mile; when near-
ing King Island, or the Channel Rocks, tack when Turn Island comes shut
in with Leading Bluff. As a rule, in standing towards the East shore do not
come within 2 cables, and after passing the Channel Rocks, keep outside of
the line of Deer Islands. On nearing Leading Bluff and Fog Rock, keep
Hill Island open of the former S.W. S. till Nob Point comes well open of
Limestone Point N. W., which clears the Fog Rock to the South and N.E.
In standing into Numukamis Bay, give Reef and San Jose Islands a berth
of about 2 cables, after which the shore on either side may be approached to
about a cable, except near the centre of Numukamis Bay, which should not
be approached closer than half a mile.
If necessary to anchor for the night, or from other causes, Entrance an-
chorage, in the Deer Group, just North of Helby Island, is recommended,
being secure, and easy of access from either Eastern or Middle Channels.
Kelp, Sproat, and Nahmint Bays, also Green Cove, are easy of access, and
may be used as stopping-places.
MIDDLE CHANNEL, the largest passage into Barclay Sound, is adjacent
to the Eastern Channel, and separated from it by the Deer Islands. It is
334
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
upwards of 12 miles long in a N.N.E. direction, and 3 miles wide in the
narrowest part, being bounded on either side by numerous small islands
and rocks. The soundings within it vary from 30 to 54 fathoms, and off
its entrance are three dangers, named Western Reef, Channel Reef, and
Danger Rock, which only break in heavy weather, and require great caution
to avoid. In southerly or south-westerly gales there is generally a very heavy
sea in this channel.
Danger Rock, in the S.E. part of entrance of Middle Channel, 3½ miles
W. N. from Cape Beale, and S. W. by W. W. 2 miles from Ship Islet,
of small extent, and only breaks in heavy weather. There are from 22 to
40 fathoms at a distance of 2 cables around it. Swiss Boy Island just open
West of Entrance Island N.N.E. leads half a mile East of Danger Rock;
Mark Islet open North of Ragged Island N.E. leads the same distance West
of it, and East of Channel Reef; and Sail Rock in sight West of Storm
Island N.W. by W. W. leads South of it and Channel Reef.
Channel Reef lies near the centre of the entrance of Middle Channel,
3 miles W. S. from Ship Islet, and 1½ mile W.N.W. from Danger
Rock. It is about a cable in extent, uncovers at low water, and has 27
fathoms close-to on the eastern side; there are from 19 to 50 fathoms in
the channel between it and Danger Rock, and the same marks clear both of
them.
Western Reef lies in the S.W. part of entrance of Middle Channel, 5½
miles W. S. from Ship Islet, and 1 mile South of the Broken Group; it is
about a cable in extent, awash at low water, and should not be approached
within half a mile.
In bad weather the sea breaks heavily over all these reefs.
Entrance Island, at the S.E. point of Middle Channel, and nearly 1 mile
W.N.W. from Ship Islet, is of small extent, and wooded. It is steep-to and
cliffy on the South and West sides.
Hecate Passage, leading into Middle Channel between Entrance Island and
Danger Rock, is 2 miles wide, with from 33 to 74 fathoms water, and the
best way to enter Middle Channel in thick weather, or from the South or
East. Shark Pass, between Entrance and Ship Islands, is two-thirds of a
mile wide, with from 14 to 25 fathoms in the middle, and may be used by
steamers or sailing vessels with a fair wind.
Dodger Cove, on the East side of Middle Channel, between Diana and
King Islands, is a narrow creek about two-thirds of a mile long and a cable
wide, with several rocks and small islets off its entrance. It affords good
shelter to coasters or small craft at its head, but it should not be attempted
by a stranger.
Satellite Pass, 3 miles from Entrance Island, lies between Helby and Hill
Islands, connecting the Eastern and Middle Channels. Its length is about
a mile, and breadth half a mile; the soundings in the middle vary from 9 to
JUNCTION PASSAGE-BROKEN GROUP.
335
22 fathoms, and the South side is clear of danger, but 3 cables South of Hill
Island, on the N. side of the pass is a shoal patch with 3 fathoms, marked
by kelp. Leading Bluff open of East side of Hill Island N.E. by N. leads
to the S.E. of this shoal.
A vessel bound to Alberni Inlet, after having entered Middle Channel,
should proceed through this pass into the Eastern Channel, and on to the
inlet through the latter, keeping about 1 or 2 cables North of Ragged, Helby
and Wizard Islands.
Village Rocks, lying on the East side of Middle Channel, 6 miles from En-
trance Island, and one-third of a mile from the N.W. point of Robbers
Island, are 2 cables in extent, nearly awash at low water, and usually
break in heavy weather. They should not be approached within a quarter
of a mile.
Chain Islands, on the East side of Middle Channel, are a chain of small
islets and rocks nearly 4 miles long in a northerly direction. They run pa-
rallel to the West side of Tzaartoos Island, being separated from it by a
passage three-quarters of a mile wide, but filled with rocks, and among which
no vessel should enter.
Swiss Boy Island, the southernmost of this group, is small and cliffy, and
2 cables West of it is Bull Rock, of small extent, with less than 2 fathoms
water, which breaks in bad weather. A vessel ought not to approach the
West side of these islands within half a mile, except when rounding their
North part.
JUNCTION PASSAGE, at the N.E. part of Middle channel, connecting it
with the Alberni Inlet and Eastern Channel, lies North of the Chain and
Tzaartoos Islands, between them and the main. It is 2 miles long in an
easterly direction, about one-third of a mile wide, its shores are clear of dan-
ger, and the soundings in mid-channel vary from 50 to 84 fathoms. On the
North side of the passage is Rainy Bay, about 1 mile in extent; but there
are several rocks and small islets within it, the shores are rugged and broken,
and the water too deep to afford anchorage. Northward of this bay, and
connected to it by a very narrow boat pass, is Useless Inlet, a large sheet of
water with from 9 to 20 fathoms, which no vessel can enter.
BROKEN GROUP, which forms the boundary of Middle Channel along
the West side, is composed of a number of small islands and rocks, covering
a space upwards of 6 miles long and 4 miles wide. They are low, and the
principal ones wooded, the largest being about a mile in extent; there are
several passages through them, and a good anchorage, called Island Har-
bour, in their N.E. part, but as a rule no stranger should venture among
them or approach within half a mile, as the soundings are irregular, and
there may exist rocks besides those marked on the Admiralty charts.
Redonda, the S.E. island of this group, lies at the S. W. entrance point of
Middle Channel, 4½ miles W. N. from Ship Islet. It is small, wooded, and
336
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
of a round shape; some rocks extend 3 cables off its S.E. point, and half a
mile E.N.E. of it is a reef which covers at half-flood. Between Redonda
Island and Channel Reef is a passage 1 mile wide, with from 19 to 33 fa-
thoms, but it should not be attempted by a stranger.
Village Island, the largest of the group, is 1 mile North of Redonda, and
upwards of a mile in entent; the East side is bold and cliffy. On its North
side is a village of considerable size, and where landing may be effected in
almost all weather.
Coaster Channel, which runs in a westerly direction through the Broken
Group, North of Village Island, is about 4 miles long, and from half a mile
to 1 mile wide, with from 10 to 24 fathoms; but as there are several rocks
within it, this channel should not be attempted by a stranger.
Village Reef, in the East part of Coaster Channel, half a mile North of
Village Island, is small, and 4 ft. above high water; there are 34 fathoms at
3 cables East of it.
Island Harbour, in the N.E. part of Broken Group, and 5 miles from the
entrance of Middle Channel, is a good, well-sheltered anchorage, about half
a mile in extent, with from 10 to 14 fathoms water; it is formed by several
rccks and islands, and there are two good passages into it from the Middle
Channel, Protection Island, off its East side, and protecting it in that direc-
tion, is two-thirds of a mile long, and narrow. Elbow Islet, 3 cables S.S.W.
from Protection Island, is small and rugged, with a notch in the centre; the
islet is conspicuous from the southward. Elbow Rocks, which cover at two-
thirds flood, lie 1 cable N.N.E. of Elbow Islet, between it and Protection
Island, and are steep-to on all sides. Pinnace Rock, 3 cables East of Elbow
Islet, almost in the fairway of the South entrance, only breaks in heavy
weather, and is dangerous to vessels entering the harbour by that passage.
Island Harbour may be entered either by the South or by the Harbour
Entrance. The South entrance, between the Elbow Rocks and Protection
Island, is 1½ cable wide at its South part, with from 9 to 14 fathoms water.
Harbour Entrance, along the North side of Protection Island, between it
and Gibraltar Island, is nearly a mile long, and its breadth averages about
2 cables. The soundings within it vary from 15 to 18 fathoms, and in
the middle, 4 cables from its East end, lies the Channel Rock, of small ex-
tent, with only 9 feet on it at low water.
The best anchorage is near the centre of the harbour, about 2 cables West
of the N.W. end of Protection Island, in from 10 to 12 fathoms, protected by
Puzzle and Mullins Islands from the westward.
No one should attempt to enter this harbour without the chart, unless
thoroughly acquainted with the place; and it only ought to be entered by sail-
ing vessels with a fair wind.
Nettle Island, the north-east island of Broken Group, is nearly 1 mile in
extent, steep-to off its North side, but East and West of it some islets and
SESHART CHANNEL.
337
rocks extend out half a mile. At half a mile East of its East point is a
small bare rock 8 feet above high water, named Swale Rock, which is
very conspicuous from the Middle Channel, and marks the East entrance of
Seshart Channel.
SESHART CHANNEL is North of Broken Group between it and the main,
and connects the Western and Middle Channels. It is a winding channel
5 miles long in a westerly direction, and about half a mile wide; the
soundings in it vary from 16 to 35 fathoms, and a mid-channel course
through is free of danger.
Capstan Island, 3 miles from the East entrance, and nearly in the middle
of this channel, is small, and the southernmost of a number of small islands,
extending nearly 1 mile from the North shore. Westward of these islets is
an extensive village called Seshart, to the southward of which a vessel may
anchor a quarter of a mile off shore.
Bird Islets are two small, bare, conspicuous rocks lying almost in the centre
of the North part of Middle channel, 9 miles from the entrance; the southern
islet is 35 feet, and the northern 30 feet above high water.
Effingham Inlet, the entrance to which is in the N.W. part of Middle
channel, is narrow, and about 8 miles long in a curved direction to the N.W.,
terminating in a low swamp; its shores on both sides are high and rocky,
the western one indented by several bays. The soundings in it vary from
35 to 70 fathoms, and there is no anchorage.
Vernon Bay, 1 mile East of Effingham Inlet, at the head of Middle Chan-
nel, is upwards of a mile in extent, open to the southward, and too deep to
afford anchorage; its shores are high and rocky. At 3 cables off Palmer
Point, its S.W. extreme, is a rock 3 feet above high water.
The North shore of Middle Channel is rocky and bold, rising in some
places to mountains upwards of 3,000 ft. high; it is steep-to, and clear of
danger; in southerly winds the sea breaks violently along it.
DIRECTIONS.-Entering Barclay Sound by the Middle Channel with a
fair wind, and coming from the West or S.W., keep well clear of the west-
ern part of the Sound, and 3 miles South of Broken Group. Steer towards
Ship Islet on an E.N.E. bearing, until Mark Islet comes open North of
Ragged Island N.E., when haul into the Middle Channel with that mark on
which will lead midway between Channel Reef and Danger Rock; when
Ship Islet bears E. by N. the vessel will be clear North of them, and may
then steer up mid-channel. If bound to the Alberni Inlet, a sailing vessel
ought to proceed through Satellite Pass into the Eastern Channel (as the
wind is generally unsteady in Junction Passage), proceeding according to the
directions given in page 335 for the latter channel. Should it, however, be
requisite to go through Junction Passage, give the Chain Islands a berth of
nearly half a mile to avoid the rocks off them, and steer in mid-channel
through the passage into Alberni Inlet.
North Pacific.
N
338
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
Unless intending to go through Satellite passage, do not approach the
Deer Island within half a mile.
If entering Middle Channel from the eastward, or in thick weather, and
not able to see the marks for clearing the reefs, keep well out until Entrance
Island bears North, when steer through Hecate Passage so as to pass 2 or 3
cables West of the island, which will lead well eastward of all danger, then
proceed as before directed.
Beating into Middle Channel, when South of Danger Rock and Channel
Reef, keep Sail Rock (which lies off the S.W. side of Broken Group, and is
very conspicuous) open South of Storm Island, the southernmost of the
group, N.W. by W. W., until Mark Islet comes nearly on with the S.E.
point of Hill Island N.E. & E., when, if standing to the westward, tack; in
standing to the eastward avoid shutting in the passage between Hill and
Ragged islands; tacking when these latter marks are on will lead between
Danger and Channel Reefs, and clear of them; when Ship Islet bears East,
a vessel will be northward of them, and may stand over to about half a mile
of the Deer Islands, and a mile of the Broken Group. If bound to Alberni
Inlet, when able to lay through the Satellite Pass, do so, keeping nearer to
its South shore, and beat up to the former through the Eastern Channel.
No vessel should attempt to beat through Middle Channel unless the weather
be clear and the marks well made out.
WESTERN CHANNEL leads into Barclay Sound westward of the Broken
Group, between it and Great Bank. Its length is about 4 miles in a north-
erly direction, its breadth from 1 to 2 miles. Sail Rock, lying off the S.W.
part of Broken Group, is a bare rock like a sail, rising 100 feet above the
sea, and very conspicuous. Shag Rock, 8 feet above high water, on the East
side of the channel, 22 miles N. & W. from Sail Rock, and half a mile West
of the Broken Group, is small and bare, and foul ground exists 1 cable from
it. Round Island, near the middle of the North part of the channel, is small,
but 200 ft. high; it lies 34 miles N. by W. from Sail Rock.
3
4
Black Rock, at the S.W. entrance point of the Western Channel, 3 miles
S.W. by W. W. from Sail Rock, is 10 feet above high water, and small
some rocks which break extend 2 cables East of it.
Channel Rock lies at the S.E. extreme of the Great Bank, on the West
side of the channel. It is bare, 15 feet above high water, and steep-to on its
eastern side. Great Bank is, within the 10-fathom edge, 21 miles long in a
northerly direction, and its greatest breadth is 1½ mile; on the shoalest parts,
near the North and S.W. ends, are from 3 to 4 fathoms, marked by kelp,
over which in heavy gales the sea breaks.
;
Directions.-The Western Channel, though clear of danger and wide, ought
only to be used by steamers, or sailing vessels with a fair wind, and
not then unless bound to Toquart Harbour, in the north-western part of
Barclay Sound. In entering, give the Sail and Black Rocks a berth of
BARCLAY SOUND; PEACOCK CHANNEL, ETC.
339
half a mile, and steer up mid-channel, passing half a mile West of Round
Island,
Peacock Channel runs through the N.W. part of Broken Group in a
N.E. direction from the Western to Seshart Channel. It is about 3 miles
long, and nearly a mile wide, with from 20 to 30 fathoms; its West side is
clear of danger, but on its East side, 13 mile within the West entrance, and
2 cables West of Puzzle Island, lies Galley Rock, which uncovers at low water,
and has 22 fathoms 1 cable S.W. of it. This channel is fit for steamers, or
sailing vessels with a fair wind.
Hand Island, the N.W. of the Broken Group, and at the S.W. entrance
point of Seshart Channel, is small and rugged; foul ground exists off its
East and West sides, which should not be approached within 3 cables.
Lyall Point, at the N.W. extreme of Seshart Channel, on the main, and a
mile N.W. by N. from Hand Island, is a low sharp point.
Mayne Bay, northward of Lyall Point, is of an oblong shape, 2 miles
long and one mile deep. Its shores, except near the North part, are low,
and steep-to, the soundings vary from 20 to 25 fathoms, and there is no
anchorage except in its south-east corner, where there is a limited spot
with 14 fathoms about 2 cables off shore; the group of small islets, the
Sisters, extending South 5 cables off the N.W. point, may be approached
to a cable.
Stopper Islands, lying half a mile West of Mayne Bay, are about 1 mile
in extent, wooded, and 200 ft. high; rocks extend from 2 to 3 cables off their
East and West sides.
David Channel, leading into Toquart Harbour between Mayne Bay and
the Stopper Islands, is about 2 miles long in a northerly direction, 3 catles
wide in its narrowest part, and the soundings in it vary from 17 to 22 fa-
thoms. The Richard Rock, on its West side, 4 cables from the Stopper
Islands, is steep-to on the East side, and may be approached to a cable's
distance; a vessel should not go between this rock and the islands.
Toquart Harbour, in the N. W. corner of Barclay Sound, 9 miles from the
entrance of Western Channel, is about 1½ mile in extent, and well sheltered
by the Stopper Islands from all winds. The anchorage is of considerable
extent, in from 12 to 14 fathoms, muddy bottom.
Village Passage leads into the harbour westward of Stopper Islands; it is
upwards of a mile long, and clear in mid-channel.
Pipestem Inlet is a long narrow inlet, extending upwards of 5 miles
nearly straight in a north-easterly direction from the north-east part of To-
quart harbour. It has 19 to 37 fathoms water, but affords no anchorage
whatever; its shores are rocky, and rise abruptly to 1,000 and 2,000 feet
above the sea; at its head is a small patch of swampy ground, some fresh-
water streams flowing through it.
The West Coast of Barclay Sound from Toquart Harbour to Ucluelet
22
340
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
Arm runs nearly straight about S.S.W. and N.N.E., and rises gradually to
high land 2,000 feet above the sea. For 2 miles from the Stopper Islands
a chain of small islands run parallel to the coast at a distance of about three-
quarters of a mile off, with from 5 to 7 fathoms between them and the shore.
Forbes Island, the southernmost of them, is moderately high, steep-to on its
South side; nearly a mile S.W. from it, and extending from the opposite
shore, are a number of rocks above high water.
Ship Channel, between the Vancouver shore and the Great Bank, south-
ward of Forbes Island, leads into the Ucluelet Arm, and is clear of danger.
It is 4 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., two-thirds of a mile broad in its
narrowest part, and the soundings vary from 26 to 38 fathoms. Double
Island, at its S.E. point, is of small extent, steep-to on the West side, but
from the South and East sides foul ground extends upwards of a mile. Kelp
Islet, 6 cables N.W. of Double Island, on the opposite side of the channel, is
low and bare; kelp extends 2 cables South of it.
Ugly Channel, to the eastward of Shelter Islands, connects Ship Chan-
nel with the ocean. It is bounded on both sides by rocks and reefs, and
though probably deep, it has not been sufficiently examined to recommend
its being used by a stranger; the soundings in the North part vary from 28
to 86 fathoms. Starlight Reefs, at its S.E. part, are a cluster of rocks about
7 cables in extent, some above high water; in bad weather the sea breaks
heavily over them.
Look-out Island, on the West side, is nearly bare, of small extent, and
about 150 feet high; at 3 cables South of it is a patch of rocks 2 cables in
extent, and 6 cables North of it lies a bare rock, 6 feet above high water.
UCLUELET ARM, just within the S. W. entrance point of Barclay Sound,
is narrow, and extends 5 miles is a N.W. by W. direction, running parallel
to the outer coast, and separated from it by a narrow peninsula. Its South
shore is low, and indented by several small creeks and bays; the northern
shore is nearly straight, and, at a short distance inland, rises gradually to a
flat-top range of considerable height, the S.E. shoulder of which, Mount
Ozzard, is 2,275 feet high, and conspicuous from the S.E.
The soundings in this arm vary from 4 to 8 fathoms, and there is secure
and well-sheltered anchorage from 1 mile inside the entrance to the head.
Shelter Islands, upwards of half a mile S.E. of the entrance of the
Ucluelet arm, are an irregular cluster of small islets and rocks, about a mile
long in a north-westerly direction, and 3 cables wide, which completely
shelter the arm from the sea. Centre Reef, 3 cables westward of their
northern part, is of small extent, and about 3 feet above high water.
Carolina Channel, West of Centre Reef, between it and Amphitrite Point,
the S.W. point of entrance to Barclay Sound, is the westernmost passage
into the latter and the Ucluelet arm. This channel appears to be the best
er a stranger to use if entering the Ucluelet arm from seaward.
CLAYOQUOT SOUND.
341
Leading Point, on the South side of the Ucluelet arm, 6 cables within the
entrance, is bold and steep-to. At Leading Point the breadth of the arm
contracts to a cable. Stewart Bay, on the North side, half a mile within the
entrance, is 2 cables deep, and half a mile wide. In its centre is a rock
awash at high water, and the bay is too shallow to afford anchorage. There
is a native village of considerable size in its West part. Channel Islet, in
the middle of the arm about 2 miles within the entrance, and a mile past
Leading Point, is small; between it and the latter is good anchorage in
from 6 to 9 fathoms.
To the westward of Channel Islet the arm becomes wider, affording good
anchorage in 4 to 7 fathoms, over a space one mile long and half a mile
wide.
There are several channels leading into the Ucluelet arm, with apparently
deep water through them, but there are so many rocks and dangers in their
vicinity, that even with the chart great vigilance on the part of a stranger is
recommended, and it would hardly be advisable to enter without a pilot.
The Coast from Amphitrite Point takes a W. by N. direction for 17 miles
to Point Cox. It is low, and indented by two large sandy bays, which afford
no shelter.
Wreck Bay, 4 miles westward of Amphitrite Point, is nearly 3
miles wide, and 1 mile deep. It is totally unfit for anchorage. A Peruvian
vessel, the Florentia, was wrecked here in December, 1860.
Long Bay, 8 miles westward of Amphitrite Point, is 7 miles wide, and
upwards of a mile deep, with from 8 to 11 fathoms between the entrance
points. There are several rocks within it, and no vessel ought to anchor
here.
Portland Point, the N.W. extreme of Long Bay, is high and abrupt,
with some small rocks and islets around it, at a distance of half a mile.
Gowlland Rocks, 1 mile W.S.W. from it, are of small extent, bare, and
from 10 to 15 feet above high water. They ought not to be approached
nearer than a mile.
CLAYOQUOT SOUND comprises a number of inlets, islands, and rocks,
covering an area 30 miles long in a westerly direction, and 16 broad. The
entrance to it is fringed by numerous dangerous rocks, which require due
caution to avoid; it lies between Cox and Sharp Points, bearing from each
other W. by N. & N. 21 miles, and is distant 20 miles W. by N. from Bar-
clay Sound, and 66 miles W.N.W. from Cape Flattery lighthouse.
3
There are several channels into the inner waters of this sound, but with
the exception of Ship Channel, they ought not to be attempted by a
stranger.
It is high water, full and change, in Clayoquot Sound at 12 hours, the
rise and fall being about 12 feet.
POINT COX, at the S.E. extreme of Clayoquot Sound, is rocky, and may
be approached to half a mile. A remarkable summit, Vargas Cone, 438
342
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
feet high, rises just within the point, and is very conspicuous from the
westward.
Templar Channel, the eastern entrance of the sound between Low Pe-
ninsula on the East, and Leonard, Wakennenish, and Stubbs Islands on the
West, is a winding passage about 4 miles long, in a N.N.W. direction, with
an average breadth of half a mile. No vessel drawing more than 12 feet
water ought to attempt to enter this sound by this channel, and not even
then without a pilot, as it is very intricate, and no directions can be given.
Broken Channel, between Wakennenish and Vargas Islands, to the
westward of the former, is upwards of 2 miles long in a northerly direction,
and half a mile wide in its narrowest part, with from 6 to 15 fathoms water.
Several rocks lie off its entrance, and on both sides. The tide runs through
from 2 to 5 knots, and no vessel ought to use it without a pilot. McKay
Reef, lying off the entrance, 4 miles W. by N. from Cox point, is of small
extent, and 5 to 10 feet above high water; the sea generally breaks heavily
over it. Two-thirds of a mile North of this reef is the Passage Rock, which
covers at high water.
Vargas Island, on the West side of Broken Channel, is 4 miles long, 41
at its broadest part, and its surface is low and undulating. On the eastern
side, near the middle, is a native village called Kelsemart; and at half a
mile from the South shore, running parallel to it, is a chain of small islets
and rocks called the Rugged group.
Ship Channel, to the westward of Vargas Island, between it and a num-
ber of small islands and rocks, is the only passage into Clayoquot Sound
which ought to be attempted by a stranger. Its entrance lies nearly 11
miles westward of Cox Point, and the channel is 5 miles long in a N.N.E.
direction, with a breadth varying from three-quarters to 1 mile. The
soundings in the South part vary from 20 to 22 fathoms, decreasing to 5
fathoms in the shoalest part near the North end. The tide runs through it
from 1 to 2 knots.
Bare Islet, at the S.E. entrance point of the channel, is small, rising to a
summit 40 feet high in the centre, and forms a good mark for identifying
Ship Channel. A rock which breaks lies 5 cables E. by S. from it, but there
are 20 fathoms within half a mile of its S.W. side. Plover Reefs, on the
East side of the channel half a mile N.W. of Bare Island, are of considerable
extent, stretching 1 mile from the West side of Blnnden Island, and some
parts are 6 feet above high water. Hobbs and Burgess Islets lie at the N.E.
part of the channel, 2 cables from the West side of Vargas Island, and
nearly connected with it at low water.
Sea Otter Rock lies at the S.W. entrance point of Ship Channel, 2 miles
W. by N. from Bare Islet. It is very small, and only 6 feet above high
water. Shark Reefs, some of which cover, others 6 feet and 10 ft. above high
water, lie on the West side, 2 miles N.E. by N. of Sea Otter Rock. They
CLAYOQUOT SOUND-MEARES ISLAND.
343
are about 3 cables in extent, and should not be approached nearer than 2
cables on their South and East sides.
Lawrence Islets, on the West side, nearly 3 miles from Sea Otter Rock, are
small, low, and wooded. Bartlett Island, half a mile to the westward of the
Lawrence Islets, is low and wooded; its shores are much broken, and ought
not to be approached within a quarter or half a mile.
Hecate Passage, to the N.E. of and connecting Ship Channel with the
inner waters of the sound, is 3 miles long in an E.N.E. direction between
Vargas Island and the main shore of Vancouver, and upwards of a mile
wide. There are several rocks on both its shores, and a sand-bank in its
centre, but to the southward of the bank along the North shore of Vargas
is a clear passage with not less than 5 fathoms.
Half-tide Rock, off the S.W. point of Hecate Passage, and 2 cables from
Vargas Island, is of small extent, covers at half-flood, and may be approached
to 1 cable on the outside.
The Cat-face Mountains, rising on the main shore of Vancouver and front-
ing the Ship Channel, are a remarkable flat-topped range, nearly 3,000 feet
high, with some patches of cliff and bare rock on their South side. They
are very conspicuous from seaward.
Deep Pass, between two islands at the N.E. part of Hecate Passage, is
about 3 cables long and 1 cable wide, with 9 fathoms water, and is the
best channel leading from Hecate Passage into the inner waters. The tide
runs from 2 to 3 knots through it. Hecate Bay, 2 miles North of Deep Pass,
on the West shore, is 6 cables wide and 3 cables deep, with from 9 to 10
fathoms. It is clear of danger, and one of the best anchorages within the
sound, being easy of access, and well sheltered. There is a stream of fresh
water in the middle of the bay, very convenient for watering.
Observatory Islet, at its North point, is 35 feet high, and bare. It is in
lat. 49° 15′ 22″ N., long. 125° 56′ 10″ W.
Cypress Bay, on the main shore of Vancouver, and 4 miles North of Deep
Pass, is nearly 2 miles in extent, with from 12 to 26 fathoms. There is good
anchorage in 12 fathoms near its North part, at a distance of half a mile
from the shore. It is open to the southward, but no sea rises. Mussel Rock
lies 4 cables off the East shore of the bay, and half a mile N.N.W. ₫ W. of
the East extreme. It is of small extent, and covers at three-quarters flood.
3
Meares Island, within the eastern part of Clayoquot Sound, adjacent to
and N.E. of Vargas Island, is 6 miles extent in a northerly and 7 miles in
an easterly direction. Its shores, except on the North side, are high and
rugged, and there are several summits on the East and West sides upwards
of 2,000 feet above the sea; one on the latter side, named Lone Cone, is 2,331
feet high, and very conspicuous from seaward near the entrance of Ship
Channel. An extensive inlet runs nearly through the island from the South
side to North, and there are several other bights and bays.
Deception Channel, between Meares and Vargas Islands, is about 3 miles
344
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
long North and South, and half a mile wide, with irregular soundings from
5 to 20 fathoms. The tide runs from 2 to 5 knots through this channel, and
a stranger should not attempt its navigation.
Ritchie Bay, on the N.W. side of Meares Island, 2 miles eastward of Deep
Pass, is a mile wide, half a mile deep, and affords anchorage in 5 to 10
fathoms at 2 cables off its eastern shore. The shores of the bay are rocky,
but have no outlying dangers.
If wishing to anchor in Ritchie Bay, and coming from Deep Pass, proceed
to the eastward so as to pass about 1 cable North of Robert Point, and
keeping the same distance off the South shore, steer into the bay, anchoring
in 5 or 7 fathoms about 2 cables from its East side, with the extremes bear-
ing North and S.W. W.; entering from the northward, steer midway be-
2
tween Saranac Island and the North point of the bay.
The North shore of Meares Island is low, nearly straight, and steep-to;
it takes an E. by N. direction for nearly 4 miles, and then turns sharply to
the S.E.
Bedwell Sound, the entrance to which is 1 mile West of Cypress Bay
and northward of Meares Island, is 7 miles long in a northerly direction.
The shores are high and rugged, rising on the East side to sharp jagged
peaks from 2,000 to 4,300 feet above the sea. Race Narrows, East of Bed-
well Sound, between the North side of Meares Island and the main, are l
mile long, and about 2 cables wide in the narrowest part. The tides run
through them from 3 to 4 knots. Warn Bay, to the eastward of Race Nar-
rows, and 1 mile from the N.E. part of Meares Island, is upwards of 2 miles
long. The shores on both sides are high, but low at the head, from whence
issue several streams, and a sand-bank dries out upwards of a cable.
Fortune Channel, between the East side of Meares Island and the main,
is 5 miles long, North and South, and varies in breadth from 3 cables to 14
mile; its shores are high, and there are several off-lying rocks on its West
side near the middle. The soundings vary from 30 to 75 fathoms.
Mosquito Harbour, on the East side of Meares Island, is narrow, and about
2 miles long in a north-westerly direction. There are several rocks and
small islets off its entrance, but it affords good anchorage inside in from 4 to
7 fathoms. The entrance is 1 cable wide, with 11 fathoms, and the harbour
is well adapted for a steamer.
In entering Mosquito Harbour, round Plover Point at a cable's distance
to avoid the Hankin Rock, and keep midway between Wood Islands and the
East shore. A vessel may enter westward of the Wood Islets by keeping
midway between them and the shore.
Dark Island, 7 cables South of Plover Point, on the West side of Fortune
Channel, is small. Some rocks extend a short distance off its West side, but
there is a clear passage between it and the West shore.
Double Island, 5 cables South of Dark Island, is small and steep-to.
There are 24 fathoms in the passage between it and Meares Island.
TOFINO INLET-FLORES ISLAND.
345
Deception Pass, at the South extreme of Fortune Channel, and connecting
it with Tofino Inlet and Browning Passage, is a winding channel to the
S.S.E., about 1 mile long and 2 cables wide. It is free from danger in mid-
channel, and the tide sets with considerable strength through it.
TOFINO INLET, in the eastern part of Clayoquot Sound, is about 10
miles long in a northerly direction, and varies in breadth from one-half to
1½ mile. Its shores are high and rocky, indented on the West side by some
large creeks, and there is no anchorage, except near the entrance on the
West side. Indian Island, on the South side of entrance, and half a mile
south-east from Deception Pass, is about a mile in extent, and steep-to on
the North side.
Warn Island, nearly 1 mile North of Indian Island, off the West side of
the inlet just within the entrance, is upwards of half a mile in extent, and
steep-to on all sides. Island Cove, half a mile West of Warn Island, is of
small extent, with from 8 to 10 fathoms in the middle, and completely land-
locked. Gunner Harbour, on the West side of the inlet, just North of Warn
Island, is 1½ mile long in a N.N.W. direction, but narrow. The harbour
becomes shoal towards the head. Tranquil Creek, on the West side of the
inlet, and 4 miles North of Warn Island, is narrow, and upwards of a mile
long. The creek is too deep for anchorage.
Flat-top Islets, 5 miles from the entrance of the inlet, and 2½ cables from
its West shore, are steep-to on the East side, there being 47 fathoms at a
cable's distance from them. Northward of these islets the inlet takes a
winding direction to the northward. On the East side of Tofiño Inlet, 4
miles from the entrance, is a stream of considerable size, said to communi-
cate with an extensive lake.
Browning Passage, on the South side of Meares Island, connecting Tofiño
Inlet with Templar Channel, is 5 miles long in a westerly direction, and
less than half a mile broad. Its East end is only 1 cable wide; there are
several rocks off the West entrance, and no stranger, except with a small
vessel, should attempt it.
North Channel, to the westward of Ship Channel, and separated from it
by a number of small islands and rocks, runs along the S.E. side of Flores
Island in a north-easterly direction. It is 4 miles long, and half a mile wide
in the narrowest part. Both sides of the channel are bordered by innume-
rable rocks, and it is not recommended for a stranger to use it. The sea
generally breaks heavily along both sides of its outer part.
Flores Island, in the western part of Clayoquot Sound, between North
Channel and Sydney Inlet, is nearly 7 miles in extent, and of a square shape.
It is low on the South and East sides, but high on the North and West,
rising in some places to 3,000 feet. The shores are rugged and broken,
and there are several off-lying rocks along its South and West sides. As a
rule its outer part ought not to be approached nearer than 2 miles. Rafael
Point, the South extreme of Flores, is cliffy, and of moderate height. Some
346
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
rocks extend 2 cables off it, and the point ought not to be rounded within
half a mile. From thence the West coast of the island turns suddenly to
the N.N.W., and continues in that direction for 7 miles, being indented by
several small bays.
Sydney Inlet, at the West end of Clayoquot Sound, is 10 miles long in
a N.W. by N. direction, and varies in breadth from a half to 1 mile. Its
entrance is 3 miles N.W. by N. from Rafael Point, between the West side
of Flores Island and the main of Vancouver. At 4 miles from the head are
two small branches about 2 miles in length, one extending North, the other
S.W. The shores are high and rugged, rising abruptly from the sea to
2,000 and 3,000 feet. The depth in the entrance is 15 fathoms, increasing
gradually towards the head, and there is no anchorage. Sharp Point, the
S.W. point of entrance to Sydney Inlet and S.W. extreme of Clayoquot
Sound, is low and rocky, and may be approached to a cable's distance.
Refuge Cove is just West of Sharp Point, and separated from Sydney
Inlet by a narrow peninsula. It runs in 1 mile in a N.N. W. direction, is
from 1 to 2 cables wide, and affords good anchorage in 4 to 5 fathoms at
half a mile within the entrance, well sheltered, and secure from all winds,
though apparently open to the S.S.E.; the entrance, though narrow, is
clear of danger. Canoe Reef, lying just S.W. of the entrance, and three-
quarters of a mile westward of Sharp Point, is 2 feet above high water, but
steep-to on the South and West sides. A sailing vessel, if embayed near
this part of the coast, would find safety and shelter in Refuge Cove.
Shelter Arm branches off from the East side of Sydney Inlet to the N.E.,
along the North side of Flores Island for 5 miles, and then takes a N.E. by
N. direction into the main for nearly the same distance, terminating in a
narrow creek at the head. It is upwards of half a mile wide, 10 miles long,
and the soundings vary from 40 to 90 fathoms in the South part. There is
only one indifferent anchorage in it, just 2 miles within the entrance on the
North side of Flores Island, in a small place named Steamer Cove. The
shores of Shelter Arm are high, precipitous, and steep-to. The tide runs
from 1 to 2 knots through it, the flood stream from the westward.
Obstruction Island, on the East side of Shelter arm, and separated from the
N. point of Flores Island by a narrow pass, is about 2 miles in extent, and
700 feet high. Its shores are rocky and broken. Rocky Pass, on its South
side, is narrow, about 12 mile long, and filled with rocks, so that no vessel
could get through it.
North Arm, between the East side of Flores Island and the main, is about
8 miles long in a S.E. by S. direction, and its breadth is nearly 1 mile. Its
shores are high in the South part, but decrease gradually to the southward.
A vessel may anchor in from 5 to 8 fathoms abreast Base Point.
Matilda Cove, on the West side of North Arm, abreast the entrance to
Herbert Arm, is a very narrow creek 1 mile long in a S.S.E. direction, but
HESQUIAT HARBOUR.
347
useless as an anchorage. Base Point, the S.W. entrance point to North Arm,
is low and sandy, and there are from 2 to 3 fathoms at a cable's distance
from it.
Herbert Arm, the entrance to which is on the East side of North Arm,
about 2 miles from the South entrance of the latter, is 9 miles long, in a
northerly direction, and its average breadth is about 1 mile. The shores are
high, mountainous, and much broken; and there is no anchorage, except at
the South part of its entrance. Cone Island, lying at the entrance of this
arm, is about 1 mile in extent, 1,000 feet high, and steep-to on the South
and West sides, but the passage into Herbert Arm North of it is blocked
up by rocks and small islets. Bawden Bay, on the South side of entrance of
Herbert Arm, and about 1½ mile S.E. of Cone Island, is of small extent, and
affords anchorage in 15 fathoms, near the centre; enter it in mid-channel.
White Pine Cove, on the East side of Herbert Arm, nearly 3 miles from the
entrance, is small, with a bank running off the head; a small vessel may an-
chor close to the edge of this bank in about 10 fathoms.
DIRECTIONS.—Entering Clayoquot Sound by Ship Channel (which latter
will easily be recognised by Bare Islet, Sea Otter Rock, and a remarkable
summit inland, the Lone Cone), round either Bare Islet or Sea Otter Rock
at the distance of half a mile, and steer up the channel with the Twins
Islands in line with the North summit of the Cat-face Mountains, bearing
N.N.E. E. Keep the above-mentioned mark on till within half a mile of
the Shark Reefs, when haul more to the eastward for the West extreme of
Vargas Island, which may be rounded at a distance of 3 cables.
If going
1
on through Hecate Passage (page 343) into Hecate Bay, to clear Half-tide
Rock keep Hobbs islet open West of Burgess islet S. by W. W. until the
Twins come in line with the West Whaler Island W. by S., when steer
up the passage with that mark on astern, which will lead North of Half-
tide Rock and South of the North Bank. When past the latter, steer
through Deep Pass, and anchor in Hecate Bay midway between its entrance.
points in 9 or 10 fathoms.
During heavy south-westerly gales the sea is said to break right across
Ship Channel, between Lawrence and Hobbs Islands.
Although there are several apparently deep channels into Clayoquot Sound
they are, with the exception of Ship Channel, so tortuous, and filled with
rocks, that no stranger should attempt to enter by any. Intending to navigate
the inner waters of the sound, which can only be done by a steamer or small
craft, the chart will be found the best guide.
HESQUIAT HARBOUR, 8 miles westward of the West part of Clayoquot
Sound, is formed at the bottom of the bay on the East side of Estevan Point.
It is 4 miles long in a N.N.W. direction, and its breadth at the entrance is
upwards of 2 miles, opening out a little inside, but on nearing the head it
contracts to less than a mile. The soundings within the harbour vary from
348
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
4 to 8 fathoms, and there is a good secure anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms at the
distance of half a mile from the head; across the entrance, between Hes-
quiat Bluff and Estevan Point, is a sort of bar or ledge, about 3 cables wide
with 4 fathoms water over it, which in a great measure prevents the sea from
setting home into the harbour. Kelp grows more or less all over the anchor-
age in a depth of 5 fathoms.
Hesquiat Bluff, the East entrance point of the harbour, is a remarkable
low wooded point with a shingle beach around it; a reef, which covers at
a quarter flood, lies half a mile S.W. of it.
The shores of the harbour are generally low and wooded, and within the
entrance at a distance of 2 cables clear of danger. At the head on the East
side is Boat Basin, a small cove with 4 fathoms. There is a large fresh-
water stream there, and vessels may wood and water with great facility.
On the West side of the bay near Estevan Point are several indications of
coal, and the land is apparently fertile.
Directions.-Hesquiat Harbour is easy of access to sailing vessels even
with a foul wind. In entering either from the East or West, give the outer
shores of the harbour a berth of more than half a mile, till past the bar, after
which they may be approached to 2 cables; anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms near
the centre of the harbour, about half a mile from the head.
In strong South or south-westerly gales the sea breaks heavily over the
bar, but the anchorage is always safe, and landing is at all times practicable
in Boat Basin.
The natives though friendly are much inclined to pilfering, and should be
carefully watched.
ESTEVAN POINT, 15 miles W. N from Rafael Point, and 92 miles
W. by N. from Cape Flattery, is a low wooded and projecting point. A
ledge a mile wide extends nearly 1 mile off its S.W. side; and 1 mile off
shore, and nearly 3 miles West of the pitch of the point, is the Sunday Rock.
Hole in the Wall, the South part of the point, may be easily known by a
remarkable gap in the trees at its extreme, which is conspicuous from the
S.W.
In rounding the West part of Estevan Point, it would not be prudent to
approach the shore within 2 miles.
From this point the coast takes a N.N.W. direction for 8 miles to Escalante
Point at the entrance of Nootka Sound, being low, and foul ground exists off
it for some distance.
NOOTKA SOUND.-This celebrated place was, until 1789, supposed to be
on the continent of America, but the discovery of its insular character de-
prived it of the great importance previously attached to it.
It was named by Captain Cook, who came hither in his last and dis-
astrous voyage, King George's Sound, but he afterwards found that it was
called Nootka by the natives, and hence by that name it has ever since been
NOOTKA SOUND.
349
known. It is stated, however, that no word more nearly resembling Nootka
than Yukuatl, or Yuquot, the name applied to Friendly Cove, has since been
found.
It communicates with the Pacific by two openings, the southern one of
which is probably the Port San Lorenzo, in which the Spanish navigator,
Ensign Juan Perez, was, with his ship, the Santiago, August 10th, 1774 (St.
Lawrence's day). He had been despatched by the Mexican viceroy to survey
and take possession of these lands.*
Cook had heard that a Spanish expedition had been hither, and the fore-
going fact was confirmed by the former purchasing from the natives two sil-
ver table-spoons apparently of Spanish make, one of which was worn as an
ornament, and had probably been stolen from the Santiago.
From the accounts contained in Cook's voyage of the furs procured here,
several vessels were fitted out from the East Indies to take advantage of the
enormous profits they afforded. The earliest of these appears to be that of
James Hanna, an Englishman, under Portuguese colours, who reached
Nootka in April, 1785. He repeated the voyage in 1786, but then he had to
compete with others, Capts. Lowrie and Guise, in two small vessels from
Bombay, and Capts. Meares and Tipping from Calcutta, all under the East
India Company.†
It was in the prosecution of this trade that Capt. Meares stated that he
had purchased a tract for the erection of a house and factory in Nootka
Sound, which subsequently led to very serious results. The Spaniards had
claimed, by right of a papal bull, dated 1493, the whole of these countries,
and also by the subsequent right by discovery; but they had not erected any
fort, or in any other way taken possession of it. In consequence of the
orders, or the misunderstanding of them, from the Spanish government, the
Iphigenia was taken possession of by Estevan Martinez, who had accompa-
nied Perez in 1774, and who had been sent hither to assert and maintain this
claim. The Argonaut, under Capt. Colnett, was subsequently seized, and the
captain sent a prisoner to San Blas, he suffering from delirium or insanity in
consequence. From this and other matters the respective governments warmly
took up the cause, and the consequences were some warlike preparations,
* Of this voyage no account appeared until 1802, when a short notice of it was given
in the Introduction to the Journal of the Sutil and Mexicana. A more perfect notice
from some Spanish MSS. will be found in Greenbow's History of Oregon, &c., pages
114-116.
+ The accounts of these fur trades between 1785 and 1789 will be found in the Nar-
rative of the Voyage of the Ship Queen Charlotte, by her Captain, John Dixon, or rather
by her Supercargo, Beresford; the Narrative of the Voyage of the Ship King George, by
Capt. Nathaniel Portlock; and the Narrative, before quoted, of the Voyages of Capt. John
Meares.
350
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
which cost England three millions sterling, but which were quieted by the
Nootka Convention of October, 1790, by which the South Seas were opened
to British enterprise. The preparation of these fleets, however, was not
without some results. They did good service afterwards, as Lord Howe's
victory was gained by them four years later.
1
Vancouver was subsequently sent to recover possession of these lands, but
did not then succeed as he intended, the Spaniards having erected a fort here,
and the possession still remained undecided. In 1818, Spain concluded a
treaty with America, in which she ceded all her possessions South of lat.
42° N. to the former power, leaving the northern part as it had been. This
convention was renewed in 1827, and the whole question was definitively set-
tled by the Oregon treaty of 1846.
The first who more minutely examined this important inlet was our great
circumnavigator, Cook.
Sir Edward Belcher visited and surveyed a part of it in 1839, and it was
completely examined by Captain G. H. Richards, in H.M.S. Plumper, in
1862. The following is from the Vancouver Island Pilot by that officer.
Nootka Sound is a large sheet of water upwards of 6 miles in extent, con-
taining several islands, and from its North side three long narrow arms pe-
netrate the land for distances of 18, 7, and 14 miles respectively.
Its en-
trance is between Maquinna and Escalante Points, W. by N. & N. and E. by
S. S. from each other and distant 4 miles; at the entrance the shores are
low, and have several off-lying dangers, but within they become high, rugged
and precipitous, and are everywhere free from danger.
The soundings at the entrance vary from 40 to 60 fathoms, deepening with-
in the sound to upwards of 100 fathoms in many places; to the southward of
the entrance, and extending 6 miles West of Estevan and Escalante Points,
is a bank of 22 to 30 fathoms water, deepening gradually to the S.W. In
the vicinity of the Bajo Reef, and to the westward of it, are from 20 to 27
fathoms; but at a distance of 7 miles South of Nootka Island 40 to 60 fa-
thoms will be found. In fine weather the natives will be met with in canoes,
in considerable numbers, on these banks, fishing for halibut, which are very
plentiful along this coast.
There are four anchorages in the sound, two of which, Friendly Cove and
Plumper Harbour on the East side of Nootka Island, are small, though easy
of access to steamers; the former is one, and the latter 7 miles within the
entrance; the others in the Tlupana Arm, though well sheltered, are more
inconvenient, being 13 and 16 miles from the entrance.
From seaward the appearance of the land near the entrance of the sound
offers to the navigator many striking features which in fine weather render
it almost impossible to be mistaken. The low land of Estevan and Maquin-
na Points at the entrance, with the breakers off them, the Nootka Cone at
the East point of Nootka Island, and if coming from the South or S.S.W.,
NOOTKA SOUND-FRIENDLY COVE.
351
Conuma Peak, a remarkable steeple-shaped mountain, nearly 5,000 ft. high
is a most conspicuous feature.
Tides. It is high water, full and change, in Nootka Sound, at 12¹, and
the rise and fall is about 12 feet. The tidal streams are everywhere incon-
siderable.
ESCALANTE POINT, the East point of entrance of the sound, is low and
rocky; some islets, and rocks generally above high water, extend off it in a
westerly direction for upwards of a mile. From Escalante Point to Burd-
wood Point, at the narrowest part of entrance on the East side, the coast,
which still keeps a N.N.W. direction for 3 miles, is bordered by several off-
lying rocks.
MAQUINNA POINT, the West entrance point of the sound, is 13½ miles
N.W. of Estevan Point, and 4 miles W. by N. N. from Escalante Point; it
is low and wooded, and at its extreme is a remarkable bare-topped conical
rock about 60 or 70 feet high; some rocks extend 3 cables off it in an easterly
direction, also along the coast from it to the eastward nearly as far as the en-
trance of Friendly Cove, and the shore ought not to be approached nearer
than three-quarters of a mile till near the latter place.
Bajo Reef, 6 miles S. W. by W. W. from Maquinna Point and 2 miles
off shore, is about 2 cables in extent, and only breaks in heavy weather.
This reef is the only hidden danger outside the sound, and is dangerous to
vessels entering it from the westward.
FRIENDLY COVE, at the East extreme of Nootka Island, just within the
narrowest part of the entrance to the sound, and about 2 miles N.E. of Ma-
quinna Point, is about 2 cables in extent, and sheltered from the sea by a
small rocky high-water island on its East side. The entrance to it is from the
N.E., and a cable wide, and the anchorage within is in from 5 to 9 fathoms,
of small extent, affording room only for one vessel of moderate size to lie
moored in the middle, though several small ones would find shelter. The
shores on both sides of the cove are rocky and about 60 feet high on the N.
side, but at the head is a small space of clear cultivated flat land, around
which in the summer the natives build an extensive village.
If desiring to anchor in this cove, round Observatory Islet, the East en-
trance point, close to, and if in a large vessel moor with anchors S.S.W. and
N.N.E., letting go the first immediately on entering the cove. Sailing vessels,
unless with a fair wind, would find some difficulty in entering; and if un-
able to shoot in, it would be preferable to warp or proceed further up the
sound to Plumper Harbour.
When the Spaniards were in possession of this coast in 1792, Friendly cove
was their principal establishment; and when Captain Vancouver visited it in
that year, no less than eight vessels were in it, most of them small, and se-
cured to the shore by hawsers. At the present date no vestige whatever of
the settlement remains.
352
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
No fresh water in any quantity can be procured at Friendly Cove, or nearer
than Marvinas Bay; but fish and deer may generally be obtained in large
quantities from the natives.
The West shore of the sound from Friendly Cove runs in a N.N.W. di-
rection for about 6 miles to the entrance of the Kendrick Arm and Tah-sis
Canal; it is rocky, and some islets run parallel to it. There are two small
creeks, with entrances, too narrow for a vessel to enter. The northern-
most of them, called by the Spaniards Boca del Infierno, lies abreast
the North part of the above-mentioned islands, and 1 mile from Friendly
Cove.
Marvinas Bay, 4 miles N.N.W. from Friendly Cove, on the East side of
Nootka Island, is of small extent, and open to the southward; it only affords
anchorage to a coaster, but there is a large fresh water stream at the head
and just South of it, convenient for watering.
Kendrick Arm, at the West end of Nootka Sound between Nootka and
Narrow Islands, is about 5 miles long in a north-westerly direction, and
half a mile wide, connected at the North part by a narrow boat pass to the
Tah-sis Canal; on the West side, one mile from its South part, is Plumper
Harbour, easy of access, and well sheltered. Northward of this harbour the
shores of the arm on both sides are rocky, terminating in two narrow creeks
at the head, useless for purposes of navigation.
PLUMPER HARBOUR, on the West side of Kendrick Arm, and 6 miles
from Friendly Cove, is a small bay indenting the East side of Nootka Island
about 3 cables in extent, and affording good anchorage in 12 fathoms. It
is protected on the East side by two small wooded islets from 30 to 40
feet high; on the West side the shore is rather swampy, and there are several
fresh water streams.
There is a clear passage into the harbour between the two islets, or
to the northward of the North one, which may be rounded at a cable,
and there is room for a vessel to lie at single anchor inside; it is the
best anchorage in the sound, the only drawback being its distance from the
entrance.
Tah-sis Canal, the entrance to which is at the N.W. part of Nootka Sound
about 6 miles from Friendly Cove, is a long narrow arm of the sea, nearly
straight, and 14 miles long in a N.W. by N. direction; the shores are moun-
tainous, rocky, and steep-to, and there is no anchorage within it.
Bligh Island, lying in the centre of the sound, is the largest island within
it, being about 4 miles long in a northerly direction, and 2 miles wide in the
northern part; its shores are rocky, and indented by some creeks on the
southern side. Its South extreme is a long narrow point, about 3 miles N.E.
of the entrance of the sound, and off its South and West sides are a
number of islands extending upwards of a mile from it, all steep-to on their
outer edges, but among which no vessel should venture. The South part of
PLUMPER HARBOUR.
353
the island is rather low, but it rises in the North and West parts to 1000 and
1200 feet.
Resolution Cove, at the S.E. point of this island, just within the entrance of
the Zuciarte Channel, is only deserving of notice as the spot where Captain
Cook refitted his ships in April 1778*; it is only a slight bend in the coast,
with a deep and rocky bottom, and inconvenient for an anchorage, being also
open to the S.W.
Zuciarte Channel, between the East shore of Nootka Sound and Bligh
Island, is about 5 miles long in a northerly direction, and upwards of half a
mile wide in the narrowest part; its shores are high and clear of danger, the
soundings within the channel varying from 80 to 100 fathoms.
Guaquina, or Muchalat Arm, extends 17 miles in an E.N.E. direction
from the N.E. part of Nootka Sound, and varies in breadth from a quarter
to upwards of a mile. It is bounded on both sides by mountains from 2,000
to 4,000 feet high, and presents similar features to the inlets before described
along this coast, terminating in low land at the head.
On the North side of this arm, 14 miles within the entrance, is an extensive
valley, through which flows a large stream, named the Gold River, indica-
tions of that metal having been there discovered.
Tlupana Arm, the entrance to which is in the North part of Nootka Sound,
is about 7 miles long in a northerly direction, branching off at the head in
two smaller arms extending to the N.W. and N.E. Its shores are high and
rocky, and the soundings in it vary from 80 to upwards of 100 fathoms; there
are two anchorages, one at Deserted Creek on the West side, and the other
at Head Bay, the termination of the N.W. branch.
The mountains at the North part of this arm are the highest in the
sound, many being from 4,000 to 5,000 feet above the sea. Conuma Peak,
rising 7 miles north-east from the head, is 4,889 feet high, and of a steeple
shape.
DIRECTIONS.—Entering Nootka Sound from the southward, after round-
ing Estevan Point, steer about N.N.W. for the entrance, which will be easily
made out by the rocks off Escalante and Maquinna Points. Keep about 2
miles off the eastern shore till past Escalante Point, when steer up mid-
channel into the sound. If bound to Friendly Cove, haul over to the
West side of entrance for Yu-quot Point, which may be approached to a ca-
ble, and rounding it sharply, anchor or moor, as most convenient, in Friendly
Coye in from 5 to 9 fathoms.
* In the second volume of the account of his last voyage there are given very ample de-
tails of the people, their manners, appearance, disposition, and resources, which are
familiar to most. He calculated, of course at a venture, the number of people occupying
the two villages, the only inhabited parts of the sound, to be about 2,000.
North Pacific.
2 A
354
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
If bound to Plumper Harbour, after passing Yu-quot Point, keep about
half a mile from the N.E. side of Nootka Island, on a N.N.W. or N. by W.
course for a distance of 5 miles to the entrance of the Kendrick Arm, when
steer up the latter in mid-channel till abreast Plumper Harbour, which may
be entered by passing between Bold and Pass islets on its East side, or going
to the northward of the former; anchor in 11 to 12 fathoms near the centre
of the harbour.
Should it be desired to anchor in any of the anchorages within the Tlu-
pana Arm, if provided with the chart, no directions whatever, are ne-
cessary.
Entering Nootka Sound from the westward, on nearing Bajo Point, do not
approach the South shore of Nootka Island within 4 miles, or shut in Bight
Cone with Bajo Point N. by W. until Yu-quot Point comes open East of
Maquinna Point N.E. E., which will clear the Bajo Reef; a vessel may
then steer for the entrance of the sound, about N.E. by E., not approaching
the shore between Maquinna and Yu-quot points nearer than a mile, until
abreast the latter, which may be rounded close-to, when proceed up the
Sound as before directed. If beating into Nootka Sound, when standing to
the westward, keep Yu-quot Point open East of Maquinna Point N.E. E.,
this will keep a vessel well clear to the eastward of Bajo Reef.
Nootka Sound is the easiest place of access on the whole of the West
coast of Vancouver Island, the entrance being nearly 2 miles wide in the
narrowest part; and by attending to the above directions any sailing vessel
may beat in or out of the sound.
NOOTKA ISLAND, which bounds the West side of Nootka Sound, is of
considerable extent, being 15 miles long in a northerly and 20 miles in a
westerly direction. Its South, or outer shore is low, rising gradually inland
to summits 1,500 and 2,500 feet above the sea, and has a beautiful and fer-
tile appearance; it is bordered by a sandy beach nearly the whole distance,
and the sea breaks heavily along it.
Bajo Point, 6 miles West of Maquinna Point, is low and rocky. A
ledge, named the Inner Bajo Reef, extends 1 mile off it in a southerly
direction; and the Bajo Reef, described in page 351, lies 2 miles to the
S.E. by S.
Westward of Bajo Point the coast takes a W.N.W. direction for 10 miles
to Ferrer Point, and is slightly indented. A remarkable summit, Bight
Cone, 540 feet high, rises 3 miles N.W. by N. from Bajo Point, and is
about 1 mile inland.
NUCHATLITZ INLET, on the N.W. side of Nootka Island, about 18 miles
W. by N. N. from the entrance of Nootka Sound, is 6 miles long in a north-
easterly direction, and 3 miles wide at entrance, narrowing towards the head·
Its shores are high and rocky, and much broken into creeks and small bays.
Off the entrance and within are several dangers. Ferrer Point, the South
NUCHATLITZ INLET.
355
entrance point of the inlet, is low and rocky; just within the point to the
eastward is a very remarkable conical summit 350 feet high, called the
North-west Cone, which is of great use in making out this locality from the
westward.
Danger Rock, lying in the South part of the entrance, upwards of a mile
N.W. W. from Ferrer Point, is the worst danger in entering, as it is of
very small extent, and only breaks in heavy weather; it is steep-to on all
sides, there being 11 fathoms close to it. The best passage into the inlet is
between this rock and Ferrer Point. Nuchatlitz Reef, in the centre of the
entrance and a third of a mile North of the Danger Rock, generally breaks,
and at its inner extremity is a small rock awash at high water; there is a clear
deep passage between it and Danger Rock, but it ought not to be attempted
by a stranger. South Reef, which lies just within the entrance on the South
side, is 1 mile N.E. by N. from Ferrer Point and about 3 cables off shore;
it is nearly 2 cables in extent, and covers at half flood.
Fitz Island, in the centre of the inlet, and 3 miles from the entrance, is of
small entent, low, rugged, and covered with a few stunted pine trees, the
tops of which are about 100 feet above the sea. At half a mile West of it
is a small bare rock 20 feet high, and steep-to on the West side, but between
the rock and Fitz Island foul ground exists. Mary Basin, the termination of
this inlet, is of considerable extent, and completely land-locked by Lord
Island, which lies across the inlet at the S. W. part of the basin; it has not
been sufficiently examined to recommend its being used by a stranger.
Port Langford, on the North side of Nuchatlitz Inlet, 2 miles within the
entrance, is about 12 mile long in a northerly direction, and varies in breadth
from a quarter to one mile. The soundings in it vary from 5 to 8 fathoms,
and it affords a secure and well sheltered anchorage at the distance of half a
mile from the head. Within the entrance it is clear of danger.
Colwood Islet, at the S.W. extreme of the entrance, is small and bare, 20
feet above water.
Directions. Entering Nuchatlitz Inlet from the southward, bring Ferrer
Point on a N. by W. bearing, and steer to pass half a mile West of it; and
when Mark Hill comes on with the North part of Fitz Island N.E. E.,
haul in for the entrance on that mark, which will lead in clear of Danger
Rock. When Ferrer Point bears South, a vessel will be inside the rock,
and may steer N. by E. 2 E., or N.N.E. for the entrance to Port Lang-
ford; pass midway between Colwood Islet and Belmont Point, and proceed
up the port in mid-channel, anchoring in 5 or 6 fathoms, at a distance of half
a mile from the head.
3
4
Approaching the port from the westward, keep an offing of 4 or 5 miles,
till Ferrer Point bears East, when steer for it on that bearing till the leading
mark for the channel comes on, Mark Hill in line with the North part of
Fitz Island N.E. E., when proceed as before directed.
2 A 2
356
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
No vessel of any size should attempt to beat into this inlet, as there is
generally a heavy sea at the entrance, and no stranger should attempt to
enter unless the leading mark is well made out.
ESPERANZA INLET, the entrance of which lies between the N.W. side
of Nootka Island and the main of Vancouver, and is 122 miles W. by N. 2
N. from Cape Flattery lighthouse, is about 16 miles long in a winding north-
easterly direction, and its average breadth is about 1 mile, narrowing at the
head, which is connected by a narrow pass, Tah-sis Narrows, to the Tah-
sis Canal in Nootka Sound.
The entrance, though wide, contains several dangers; but within the
shores are nearly everywhere steep-to, rising on both sides to mountains of
considerable height. The southern shore is indented by three bays of
moderate extent, which, however, afford no anchorage; and from the
northern one three arms of considerable length penetrate the Vancouver
shore for several miles in a N.N.W. direction. In the western arm, named
Port Eliza, is the only anchorage within the inlet.
The soundings in the entrance vary from 12 to 20 fathoms, deepening
within to upwards of 100 fathoms in many parts.
Middle Channel, the widest and best into Esperanza Inlet, is 3 miles long
in a northerly direction, and upwards of a mile wide in the narrowest part.
Its entrance lies 3 miles W.N.W. from Ferrer Point. The West side is
clear, except at the South part, where lies the Middle Reef, a part of which
is always above water.
Blind Reef, which lies at the S.E. extreme of the channel, and 3 miles
N.W. W. from Ferrer Point, is about 2 cables in extent, and only breaks
in bad weather. Needle Rock, which is of small extent, lies two-thirds of a
mile North of the Middle Reef, and has from 14 to 15 fathoms at a distance
of 2 cables West of it. Middle Reef, at the S. W. entrance point of Middle
Channel, and separating it from the North Channel, generally breaks, and
at its South extreme is a small rock 4 feet above high water. Its South
part lies 4 miles N.W. by W. W. from Ferrer Point.
North Channel leads into Esperanza Inlet West of Middle Reef, between
it and the dangers off the S.E. point of Catala Island. It is about a third
of a mile wide, and upwards of 2 miles long, merging at the North part
into Middle Channel. The soundings in it vary from 17 to 22 fathoms, and
the dangers on its West side are all above water.
Catala Island, 5 miles N.W. W. from Ferrer Point, on the West side
of the entrance to Esperanza Inlet, is about 12 mile long, in a westerly
direction, and a mile wide in its broadest part. This island is wooded, and
from 150 to 200 feet high; its shores are rocky, and several dangers exist
at a considerable distance off it on all sides. Its North side is separated
from the Vancouver shore by a passage half a mile wide, named Rolling
ESPERANZA INLET-ESPINOSA ARM.
357
Roadstead, and a vessel may find a tolerably secure anchorage there in from
4 to 6 fathoms, though generally a swell prevails in it.
Rolling Roadstead.-Entrance Reef, about 3 cables North of the East
point of Catala Island, at the eastern part of Rolling Roadstead, is of small
extent, and covers at half flood. At half a mile North of it, and about 2
cables off the opposite shore, lies the Arnold Rock, which is awash at high
water. Half a mile inshore, and overlooking the N.E. part of Rolling Road-
stead, is Leading Mountain, 1,104 feet above the sea. It is of conical shape,
and conspicuous from the entrance of the Middle Channel.
Double Island lies half a mile off the West shore at the inner and nar-
rowest part of the entrance to Esperanza Inlet, and 3 miles within the
outer part of the North and Middle Channels. It is of small extent, and
wooded. Flower Islet, on the opposite shore, 1 mile E.S.E. of Double Island,
and half a mile off the N.W. point of Nootka Island, is small and bare, and
the northernmost of the islets off Nootka Island between the entrances of
Nuchatlitz and Esperanza Islets. At 2 cables S. W. of it is a small rock 2 ft.
above high water.
Hecate Channel, near the head of the inlet, is 5 miles long in a winding
direction to the eastward, and its average breadth is about 6 cables. The
western end is 8 miles from the entrance of Esperanza Inlet; and the eastern
one, named Tah-sis Narrows, is about a cable wide, with 28 fathoms, and
connects this channel with the Tah-sis Canal in Nootka Sound. The shores
are high and rocky, and may be approached close-to.
Port Eliza, the entrance to which is on the North side of the inlet, 1 mile
N.E. of Double Island, is a narrow arm 5½ miles long in a N.W. direction,
and its breadth varies from 2 to 4 cables. There is good anchorage in from
14 to 15 fathoms at the distance of half a mile from the head. The head
terminates in a small patch of low swampy land.
Harbour Island, in the centre of the entrance, is of moderate height. The
passage into Port Eliza on its East side, through Birthday Channel, is 2 cables
wide in the narrowest part, and clear of danger. Between Harbour Island
and the West shore lies False Channel, which has irregular soundings, and
in its South part are two rocks which cover at half flood. Channel Reef, half
a mile N.N.W. of Harbour Island, in the middle of Port Eliza, is about a
cable in extent, and covers at three-quarters flood.
Queen's Cove, on the East side of the port, about 1 mile from the entrance,
is 4 cables long and 2 cables wide, with from 6 to 7 fathoms water, and
affords room for a large vessel to lie moored in the centre. Its shores are
high and rocky. The cove is completely land-locked, and only half a cable
wide at the entrance.
Espinoza Arm, the entrance to which is 2 miles N.E. of Port Eliza, is 8
miles long in a N.N.W. direction, and its average breadth is half a mile.
The soundings within it are deep, and it affords no anchorage; at the
358
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
entrance on the West side are some small islets, and a rock which uncovers.
Zeballos Arm, the entrance to which lies 10 miles within the inlet, at
the West end of Hecate Channel, is about 6 miles long in a winding direc-
tion to the N.W., and about two-thirds of a mile wide. Similar to the
Espinoza Arm, it offers no anchorage whatever, and is of no use to the
navigator.
Directions. A stranger entering Esperanza Inlet from the southward,
through the Middle Channel, and intending to anchor in Port Eliza, should
pass Ferrer Point at a distance of about 3 miles, and keep on a northerly
course till nearing the entrance of Middle Channel, when steer to bring
Leading Hill in line with Black Rock N. by W., which will lead through
the fairway, and clear of the dangers on both sides of the channel. When
the South point of Catala Island bears W.N.W., the vessel will be inside the
dangers at entrance, and should keep about N.N.E. for the entrance of Port
Eliza, passing from 2 to 3 cables East of Double Island. In entering the
port steer through Birthday Channel, passing a cable East of Harbour
Island; when past the East point of the latter, keep about N.W. by N. for
the entrance of Queen's Cove, or further over to the eastern shore, to avoid
Channel Reef. In entering the cove, pass to the West of the island at its
entrance, and moor immediately the vessel is inside, anchors N.W. and S.E.
No sailing vessel of any size should attempt to enter Port Eliza unless
with a steady fair wind.
If bound to Rolling Roadstead, enter the Middle Channel as before directed,
but instead of steering for the entrance of Port Eliza, keep on a N. by W.
or N. W. course (passing about a quarter of a mile East of Black Rock),
until the outer extreme of the islets off the N.W. part of Catala Island come
open North of the low grassy point on its North side bearing W. by S., when
haul in for the roadstead on that mark, which will lead midway between
Arnold and Entrance Reefs. Anchor in 6 fathoms, with the extremes of
Catala Island bearing W.S.W. and S.E. by S.
Entering Esperanza Inlet from the westward, keep an offing of 21 or 3
miles from Catala Island (if Kyuquot Hill be made out, by keeping it open
West of Tat-chu Point N.W. by W., a vessel will be well clear of any dan-
gers off Catala Island), till Double Island comes in line with Black Rock
N. by E. E., and entering the inlet through the North Channel with this
mark on, which lead in clear of danger.
Generally a heavy swell prevails off the entrance of the Nuchatlitz and
Esperanza Inlets, and no sailing vessel should attempt to enter or leave
either of them, unless with a steady fair or leading wind.
The COAST, westward of Catala Island to Tat-chu Point, runs in a
westerly direction for upwards of 3 miles, is indented by two small sandy
bays, and bordered by a number of rocks, some of which extend nearly 2
miles off shore. Tat-chu Point is cliffy; some rocks lie a short distance to
BARRIER ISLANDS-KYUQUOT SOUND
359
the southward of it, and there is a native village of considerable size at
half a mile East of it. Eliza Dome, a remarkable summit, 2,812 feet
above the sea, rises 1 mile within the point, and is very conspicuous from
seaward.
From Tat-chu Point the coast turns to the W.N.W. for 7 miles to the
entrance of Kyuquot Sound, and is indented by several small bays, in some
parts of which boats may find shelter.
BARRIER ISLANDS.-At 2 miles westward of Tat-chu Point is the
commencement of a chain of small islands and reefs bordering the coast of
Vancouver Island for nearly 20 miles in a westerly direction to the entrance
of Ou-ou-Kinsh Inlet. They extend in some parts as far as 5 miles off
shore, and through them are two known navigable channels, the Kyuquot
and Halibut, leading to anchorages; the former channel leads into Kyuquot
Sound, and the latter into Clan-ninick Harbour, but as a rule no stranger
should venture into them, or among these islands. Highest Island, one of
the Barrier group, lying 2 miles South of Union Island, is a remarkable
bare rock 98 feet high, and useful in identifying the Kyuquot Channel.
KYUQUOT SOUND, the eastern entrance of which is 12 miles from Espe-
ranza Inlet, is a large broken sheet of water penetrating from the coast to
a distance of 14 or 15 miles inland in two large arms, and several smaller
ones. There is a large island at the entrance, and on either side of it is a
channel into the sound, the eastern one only being fit for large vessels.
There are also several islands within, mostly small; its shores are generally
rocky, and very much broken, rising within to high mountains, 2,000 and
4,000 feet above the sea.
The soundings outside vary from 20 to 40 fathoms, generally sandy bot-
tom. At the entrance are from 40 to 60 fathoms, but within the sound the
depths increase in many places to upwards of 100 fathoms. There are three
anchorages, Narrowgut and Easy Creeks, and Fair Harbour, the two latter
being of considerable size, but at a distance of 13 and 10 miles from the
entrance; the former is very small, but only 5 miles within the sound.
Kyuquot Channel, leads into the sound through the Barrier Islands, and
to the eastward of Union Island. It is nearly straight, about 5 miles long
in a N.N.E. direction, and its breadth is little less than a mile. The sound-
ings within it vary from 30 to upwards of 40 fathoms, increasing gradually
to the inner part, and a mid-channel course through is clear of danger.
East Entrance Reef, one of the Barrier group lying at the south-east
extreme of the channel, 6 miles W. by N. N. from Tat-chu Point, is
about 2 cables in extent and 4 feet above high water. No vessel should
stand inside it.
Rugged Point, the S.E. entrance point of Kyuquot Sound, is upwards
of 2 miles North of East Entrance Reef on the East side of the channel
It is rugged and rocky, but steep-to on the West side. Between it and
360
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
East Entrance Reef are a number of rocks, among which no vessel should
venture.
West Rocks, at the S.W. extreme of Kyuquot Channel, and 2 miles
N.W. W. from East Entrance Reef, are two in number, and 50 feet above
high water.
Some rocks, which cover at a quarter flood, extend half a mile
S.E. of them, with 20 fathoms close to their outer edge.
White Cliff Head, the S.E. extreme of Union Island, is 1 mile N.N.E. of
the West Rocks, and abreast Rugged Point; it is about 70 feet high, faced
to the southward by a remarkable white cliff. There are 35 fathoms within
1 cable of it. Half a mile within the head is Kyuquot Hill, a remarkable
summit 740 feet high, bare of trees on its East side, and very conspicuous
from seaward.
Chat-Channel Point, the north-west extreme of Kyuquot Channel, and
the East point of Union Island, is a low rocky point with a remarkable
nob just inside it. A rock, which uncovers at a quarter flood, lies 2 cables
East of it.
Leading Island, just northward of Kyuquot Channel, and nearly 3 miles
from White Cliff Head, is about 14 mile long in an East and West direction,
and half a mile wide. Its shores are steep-to, and the island rises near
the centre to a summit 400 feet high, which kept midway between White
Cliff Head and Rugged Point, N. by E. 2 E., leads into the sound through
the fairway of Kyuquot Channel.
UNION ISLAND, in the entrance of the sound, and protecting it from
the ocean, is of square shape, and upwards of 3 miles in extent. Its surface
is undulating, rising in the N. W. part to nearly 1,500 feet.
Blind Entrance leads into the sound westward of Union Island, between
it and the Vancouver shore, forming a narrow tortuous channel with some
rocks in the outer part, and which should not be entered by a stranger;
coasters, however, often enter the sound by this channel, but no directions
can be given for navigating it.
Narrowgut Creek, in the S.E. part of the sound, about 1½ mile from the
termination of the Kyuquot Channel, is very narrow, and 1 mile long in a
north-easterly direction. The soundings in it vary from 16 to 8 fathoms,
and there is only just room for a vessel to moor, as its breadth is less than
a cable. The creek is easy of access to a steamer. Shingle Point, at the
entrance of the creek on the North side, was the observation spot used in
the sound, and is in lat. 49° 59′ 55.5" N., long. 127° 9′ 30″ W.; the varia-
tion in 1862 was 23° 40' East.
Deep Inlet, at 1½ mile N.W. of Narrowgut Creek, is about 3 miles long
in a north-easterly direction, but affords no anchorage. On its North side,
at the entrance, is a remarkable high precipice.
Ho-hoae Island, nearly in the centre of the sound, and half a mile North of
Union Island, is about 2 miles long in a north-easterly direction. On its
KYUQUOT SOUND-TAH-SISH ARM.
361
N.E. side is Dixie Cove, where a small craft may anchor in 6 fathoms com-
pletely land-locked. Pinnace Channel, between Ho-hoae Island and the East
shore of the sound, is about 3 miles long in a northerly direction, and half
a mile wide, clear of danger.
Tah-sish Arm, in the North part of the sound, has its entrance 5 miles
from the termination of the Kyuquot Channel. It is 6 miles long in a
winding direction to the northward, and its shores, except at the head, are
high, rugged, and generally steep-to. The head terminates in low swampy
land. There is one anchorage 1 mile within the entrance, on the East side,
called Fair Harbour.
Fair Harbour is of an oblong shape, 2 miles in length in a N.E. direc-
tion, from 3 to 4 cables wide, and affords anchorage near either end in from
13 to 11 fathoms; its shores generally are high and steep. From the East
end a bank dries off a cable, and the western one is a low narrow neck
about a cable wide at low water, and separates the harbour from Pinnace
Channel. The entrance to it, which lies on the North side near the middle,
is nearly a mile long, and from 1 to 2 cables wide, with some small islets
on its North side, the soundings in it being very irregular, varying from 5
to 20 fathoms. In entering keep the South shore close on board. This
harbour can be entered by steamers or sailing vessels with a fair wind.
Moke-tas Island, in the North part of the sound, between the entrance to
the Tah-sish and Kok-shittle Arms, is about 2 miles long, and 1 mile wide,
rocky, and about 400 feet high; its East and West sides are steep-to. At 1
cable off its North shore, near the centre, is a rock under water, and to the
S.E. of it lie the Channel Rocks, a small patch about 3 feet above high
water; they are, however, steep-to.
Kok-shittle Arm, the entrance of which is in the N.W. part of the sound,
about 6 miles from Kyuquot Channel, is upwards of 8 miles long in a north-
westerly direction, and about a mile wide at the entrance, narrowing gradu-
ally towards the head; its shores are rocky, and of a broken outline, with
several small islets off them. The soundings vary from 20 to 80 fathoms,
shoaling gradually towards the head. There are no dangers, and a very
good anchorage, the best in the sound, on its West side, at a distance of 4
miles from the entrance. The head of the arm terminates in low swampy
land, through which flows a small stream, and a bank extends off about 2
cables. Easy Creek, on the West side of Kok-shittle Arm, and 13 miles from
the entrance of the sound, is about 2 miles long in an E.S.E. direction,
turning sharply round from its entrance to the southward, and running
parallel to the inlet, being separated from it by a narrow rocky peninsula.
There is good anchorage from half a mile within the entrance to the head.
It ought to be entered in mid-channel.
Chamis Bay, formed in the West side of Kyuquot Sound, about 1 mile
362
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
from the North part of Blind Entrance, is nearly half a mile in extent, but
affords no anchorage, the water being too deep.
Directions. No sailing vessel should attempt to enter Kyuquot Sound,
unless with a steady fair, or leading wind, as generally a heavy swell pre-
vails outside, which in a light wind would render her position critical; and
no stranger should attempt to venture in, unless provided with the chart,
the weather clear, and the leading mark for the channel well made out.
Entering the sound by the Kyuquot Channel, which is the only one a
stranger ought to use, keep a good offing, till the entrance of the channel is
made out (White Cliff Head and Kyuquot Hill at the S.E. point of Union
Island, which have been before described, are very conspicuous, and will
identify the channel), when bring the summit of Leading Island midway
between Chat-channel and Rugged Points N. by E. & E., and steer up the
channel with that mark on. In nearing Chat-channel Point, give it a berth
of at least 4 cables to avoid the rock which lies off it.
3
CLAN-NINICK HARBOUR, on the Vancouver shore, 3 miles to the west-
ward of Kyuquot Sound, is about 1 mile long in a westerly direction, half a
mile wide, and affords good anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms, at the dis-
tance of half a mile from the head, from which a sand-bank extends 2 cables.
The harbour is protected by some islands of the Barrier group from the
ocean, and there is only one channel, the Halibut, into it through them,
which, though clear of danger, ought not, except under unavoidable circum-
stances, to be attempted by a stranger.
HALIBUT CHANNEL, which runs through the Barrier group from the
ocean to the entrance of Clan-ninick Harbour, lies westward of Table and
Village Islands, and East of Look-out Island. It is about 3 miles long in
a northerly direction, and half a mile wide in the narrowest part. The
soundings in it vary from 16 to 6 fathoms, being somewhat irregular;
but a mid-channel course through, except in the northern part, is clear of
danger.
Table Island, on the East side of the channel, is the largest of the Barrier
group, being nearly half a mile in extent, and about 150 feet high. Trap
Bluff, on the West side of the island, is conspicuous.
Half a mile East of Table Island is an anchorage with from 4 to 6 fathoms,
tolerably sheltered by some islands from seaward, and much used by coasters
in summer months. The entrance to it is rather intricate, and no stranger,
or any except a small vessel, should attempt to enter.
Village Island, on the East side of Halibut Channel, just North of Table
Island, is small, and about 150 feet high; on its East side is a large native
village, much frequented in summer; off it a bank dries nearly 3 cables.
To the eastward of this island is a small cove among the Barrier Islands,
called Barter Cove, with from 1 to 3 fathoms; it is well sheltered in all
OU-OU-KINSH INLET.
363
weather, and much frequented by coasters when fur trading. The entrance
to it is very narrow, and almost choked up with rocks.
Two cables North of Village Island is a rock awash at high water
springs, but there are from 5 to 6 fathoms at a distance of a cable off the
West side.
Look-out Island, at the South entrance point of Halibut Channel, lies
nearly 1 mile S.W. of Table Island; it is small, covered with a few trees,
and about 150 feet high. Granite Island, which forms the South side of
Clan-ninick Harbour, is about half a mile in extent, and joined by a sandy
beach at low water to the Vancouver shore; 3 cables East of its East point
is a very dangerous rock, Chief Rock, which lies at the termination of the
Halibut Channel, and only uncovers at low water springs.
As before noticed, no stranger should attempt to enter this harbour with-
out a pilot, unless from absolute necessity, and if in a sailing vessel, only
with a steady fair wind.
OU-OU-KINSH INLET, 10 miles W.N.W. from Kyuquot Sound, is 7
miles long in a north-easterly direction, and 1½ mile wide at the entrance,
narrowing gradually towards the head; the shores within are high, rising
from 2,000 to upwards of 3,000 feet.
The soundings in the inlet vary from 40 to 60 fathoms, and there is only
one indifferent anchorage, Battle Bay, just within the entrance, on the West
side. The entrance lies West of the Barrier Islands, is a mile wide in the
narrowest part, and the soundings in it varying from 14 to 48 fathoms.
Clara Islet, at the S.E. extreme of the entrance, is small, bare, and 20
feet above high water; no vessel ought to go eastward of, or approach it
within half a mile. This islet is the westernmost of the Barrier Islands, and
lies 21 miles W. by N. from Tat-chu Point, where they may be almost said
to commence.
close in shore, are about 2
The passages between them
Bunsby Islands, on the East side of entrance,
miles in extent, and from 200 to 300 feet high.
and the shore are choked up with rocks, but their West side is steep-to.
Pinnacle Point and Green Head at their S.W. extreme are remarkable.
To the northward of these islands is Malksope Inlet, 4 miles long in a north-
easterly direction, but the entrance is intricate, and there is no anchorage
within it.
Cuttle Group, lying at the S.W. entrance point of Ou-ou-Kinsh Inlet, and
1½ mile N.W. of Clara Islet, is comprised of a number of small islets and
rocks, some of the former being wooded. Nearly 1 mile S.W. of them is a
rock which breaks in fine weather. On the Vancouver shore, just N.W. of
them, is a remarkable summit, the Lone Cone, 356 feet high, and useful in
identifying the entrance.
Sulivan Reefs are a very dangerous patch of rocks lying nearly 3 miles
outside the entrance of Ou-ou-Kinsh Inlet, 2 miles W. by S. from Clara
364
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
islet, and nearly 4 miles S.S.E. of Hat Island in Nasparti Inlet. They are
about half a mile in extent East and West, and only break occasionally;
there are from 10 to 11 fathoms close around them.
Battle Bay, which is just within the entrance of Ou-ou-Kinsh Inlet on
the West side, is upwards of a mile wide, and half a mile deep, with several
islets and rocks inside it near the middle. Near the North part there is an-
chorage in from 6 to 9 fathoms, which may be used in fine weather.
NASPARTI INLET, 3 miles West of Ou-ou-Kinsh Inlet, on the East
side of a large peninsula of which Cape Cook is the S.W. extreme, and in
the head of an open bight or bay, is about 4 miles long in a northerly
direction, and about half a mile wide at the entrance, decreasing in some
places to less than 3 cables. Its shores are high and rocky, indented by
some slight bays. There is a fresh-water stream at the head, from which a
bank extends about 3 cables. The soundings vary from 13 to 30 fathoms,
and there is a secure though rather limited anchorage, in from 13 to 16
fathoms, at the distance of half a mile from the head. Outside the entrance
are several dangers, but none within, and the projecting points may be
approached to a cable's distance.
The Sulivan Reefs, just described, lie 3 miles S.S.E. of the entrance,
and appear to be pretty steep-to on the West side.
Haystacks, off the East side of the entrance, and 13 mile North of the
Sulivan Reefs, are two bare sharp-topped cliffy rocks 65 ft. high, and about
3 cables apart. There is a clear deep passage between them and the Suli-
van Reefs. East Rock, 3 cables off the East entrance point, is of small ex-
tent, has 17 fathoms at a cable's distance to the westward of it, and covers
at half flood. Yule Islet, about 40 feet high, lies midway between the Hay-
stacks and East Rock. Mile Rock Breaker lies 12 mile off the West shore of
entrance to the inlet, and 2 miles W. by N. N. from Sulivan Reefs. It is
very dangerous to vessels entering the inlet, as it is of small extent, and
only breaks in heavy weather. No vessel should stand to the westward of
this danger.
Mile Rock, nearly a mile North of the above-mentioned danger, is a small
bare rock, 12 feet above high water. Hat Island, lying in the centre of the
inlet just within the entrance, is small, and has a few stunted trees on the
summit; from the southward it is very conspicuous, and appears somewhat
like a hat. It is steep-to on the East side, but nearly midway between it
and the West shore is a shoal patch of 24 fathoms, marked by kelp. In en-
tering the inlet pass eastward of the island.
Nasparti Inlet should not be used by a stranger unless unavoidably neces-
sary, as in thick or cloudy weather it might be difficult to make out the
leading marks, and no one should attempt to enter unless they are well made
out, especially as the outlying dangers only break in heavy weather, and are
seldom seen. A sailing vessel ought, in passing the entrance of this and
BROOKS PENINSULA-BROOKS BAY.
365
Ou-ou-Kinsh Inlet, to keep Solander Island open South of the land East of
Cape Cook bearing West.
BROOKS PENINSULA.-To the westward of Nasparti Inlet is a penin-
sula of an oblong shape, 9 miles long, and about 5 miles wide, projecting
into the ocean in a S.S.W. direction. Its shores are generally very rocky,
and rise almost abruptly from the sea to upwards of 2,000 feet. There
are several off-lying dangers around it, some of which extend upwards of a
mile off shore.
CAPE COOK, or Woody Point, the S.W. extreme of this peninsula, and
the most projecting point of the outer coast of Vancouver Island, 163 miles
W. by N. N. from Cape Flattery Lighthouse, and 69 miles W. by N. & N.
142
from Estevan Point. The cape rises abruptly from the sea to a summit
1,200 feet high. Nearly 1 mile West of it lies Solander Island, which is
bare, 580 feet high, and has two sharp summits. Between it and the cape
the passage is choked up with rocks, and no vessel or even boat should go
inside the island.
At a distance of 2 miles off Cape Cook and the South side of the penin-
sula, the soundings are from 20 to 90 fathoms, and, as a rule, no vessel
should approach nearer.
BROOKS BAY, on the West side of the peninsula, is a large open bay,
about 12 miles wide and 6 miles deep. There are several dangers within it,
and two inlets, Klaskish and Klaskino, which afford anchorage, but are very
difficult of access, and no vessel should attempt to enter either unless em-
bayed and unable to get out of Brooks Bay.
Clerke Reefs lie in the S.E. part of the bay, and 5 miles North of Cape
Cook; their outer part is 2 miles off the East shore of the bay. They cover
an extent of upwards of 2 miles; some are under water, others uncover, and
no vessel should venture among them.
Klaskish Inlet, at the head of Brooks Bay, on the West side of the
peninsula, and 10 miles N.N.E. of Cape Cook, is about 2 miles long in
a north-easterly direction, and 1 mile wide at entrance. At its head is a
long narrow basin, the entrance of which is too contracted for a vessel to
enter. There is an anchorage just within the entrance of the inlet on the
South side, to the eastward of Shelter Island, but it is difficult of access to a
sailing vessel.
Surge Islets, on the South side of the entrance, about a mile off shore,
are small, rocky, and about 40 feet high; foul ground exists among them.
Shelter Island, just within the entrance of the inlet on its South side, is
about half a mile in extent, 300 ft. high, with a summit at each end covered
with a few stunted trees. The anchorage on its East side is about a third
of a mile in extent, with from 10 to 13 fathoms, well sheltered, but the
bottom is irregular. The entrance to it, round the N.E. side of the island,
is less than a cable wide in the narrowest part.
366
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
Between Shelter Island and the North entrance point of the inlet is a
heavy confused sea, which would be dangerous for sailing vessels, as the
wind generally fails there.
Entering the anchorage on the East side of Shelter Island, do not bring
Cape Cook to the southward of S.S.E. E., till Leading Cone, a remarkable
summit at the head of the inlet about 500 ft. high, comes in line with Small
Islet on the North side of entrance bearing N.E. by E. & E., which mark
will lead into the inlet well North of the Clerke Reefs and Surge Islets.
When abreast the latter, haul a little to the eastward, so as to enter mid-
way between Small Islet and Shelter Island; pass within a cable East of
the bare islet off the latter's N.E. point, and anchor in 13 fathoms, with the
extremes of Shelter Island bearing N.W. by W. W. and S.W. W.
14
The entrance of this anchorage is intricate and narrow; and unless un-
avoidably necessary, no vessel larger than a coaster should attempt it, as a
furious sea rages all around the outer parts.
Ship Rock, lying nearly 8 miles N. by W. of Cape Cook, 2 miles off the
shore in the centre of Brooks Bay, and midway between Klaskish and
Klaskino Inlets, is of small extent, and has from 17 to 20 fathoms close on
its South and East sides. The sea generally breaks very heavily over it.
3
KLASKINO INLET, the entrance to which is in the North part of
Brooks Bay,. and 10 miles N. 2 W. from Cape Cook, is nearly 6 miles
long in a winding direction to the E.N.E. There are numerous rocks off
the entrance, but a safe though intricate passage through them; and there
is also a good anchorage on the South side, 2 miles within the inlet. The
soundings vary from 12 to 40 fathoms, increasing gradually inside, which
becomes narrow, with high and rocky shores, terminating in low land at
the head.
Nob Point, the South entrance point of the inlet, is rocky, and covered
with a few stunted trees; some rocks extend 3 or 4 cables off it, and close to
its outer part is a rocky nob about 100 feet high. Anchorage Island, in the
middle of the inlet, about 2 miles within the entrance, is of small extent,
and rocky. The anchorage or harbour is between the East side of this
island and the shore; it is well sheltered. Inside Anchorage Island some
rocks extend nearly across the inlet, rendering it almost impossible for a
vessel to go beyond them.
Red Stripe Mountain, rising on the North side of entrance, abreast An-
chorage Island, is a remarkable conical-shaped summit 2,200 feet high, with
a valley on either side of it; on its South part, facing seaward, is a con-
spicuous red cliffy stripe or landslip, easily distinguished from the outside;
the lower part of it in line with Twenty-feet Rock, bearing N.N.E. & E., leads
into the entrance South of Channel Reefs, and well N.W. of Ship Rock.
Twenty-feet Rock, 4 cables W.N.W. of Nob Point, is bare, and 20 ft. above
4
LAWN POINT-QUATSINO SOUND.
367
high water. It is conspicuous from the outside. The only channel into the
inlet is to the westward of the rock, between it and the Channel Reefs.
Channel Reefs, the S.E. part of which is 33 cables W. by S. of Twenty-feet
Rock, are an irregular cluster of rocks, mostly under water, extending in a
westerly direction to the N.W. shore of Brooks Bay. There is deep water
between them in many places, but the only safe passage into Klaskino Inlet
is upwards of 3 cables wide, with deep water between their S.E. part and
Twenty-feet Rock.
If obliged to enter Klaskino Inlet, when outside Ship Rock, bring Twenty-
feet Rock in line with the lower part of red stripe on Red Stripe mountain, bear-
ing N.N.E. & E., and run boldly for the entrance with that mark on, which
will lead 2 cables South of the Channel Reefs; keep on this course till within
2 cables of Twenty-feet Rock, when haul a little to the northward, and pass
it on its North side at a cable's distance, after which steer about N.E. by
E. E. for the centre or South part of Anchorage Island, passing a cable
or so North of the rocks off the South side of the inlet. When abreast
the S.W. point of the island, haul quickly to the eastward, round the
rocks off its S.E. point within half a cable, and anchor in from 9 to 10
fathoms, midway between the East side of the island and the main, with
the extremes of the former bearing N.W. and S.W. by W. A large vessel
should moor.
The entrance to Klaskino anchorage is even more intricate than that of
Klaskish, and should not be attempted by a stranger unless absolutely
necessary for safety. Fresh water may be procured in both these an-
chorages.
Three miles from Klaskino, in the N.W. part of Brooks Bay, is a large
rivulet where boats may enter and find shelter in bad weather.
LAWN POINT, the N.W. extreme of Brooks Bay, lies 12 miles N.W.
by N. from Cape Cook; it is low, and some rocks extend more than half a
mile in an easterly direction from it, inside of which a boat may find shelter.
The sea breaks violently about this point, and everywhere along the shores
of Brooks Bay.
The land in the vicinity of Lawn Point appears very fertile, and lightly
timbered; it rises gradually from the sea to a height of 1,900 feet.
QUATSINO SOUND, the north-westernmost of the deep inlets on the
outer coast of Vancouver Island, is an extensive arm of the sea, which pene-
trates the island in a north-easterly direction for upwards of 25 miles. The
breadth at the entrance is nearly 6 miles, narrowing to less than a mile at a
distance of 5 miles within; the sound then runs in a north-easterly direction,
nearly straight for 13 miles, when it branches off in two arms, one extending
to the S.E. for 12 miles, and terminating in low land. The other arm lies
to the northward of, and is connected with, the sound by a straight narrow
pass about 2 miles long. Its length is 22 miles in an East and West direc-
368
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
tion, and the eastern extreme, Rupert Arin, is only 6 miles distant from
Hardy Bay on the N.E. side of Vancouver Island. The western part
terminates within 12 miles of San Josef Bay on the outer coast. Just
within the entrance of the sound on the North side is Forward Inlet, a much
smaller arm, about 6 miles long in a northerly direction, in which are the
best anchorages of the sound.
The shores of Quatsino Sound are generally high, and near the entrance
very much broken. There are several islands within and along its shores,
but they are mostly small.
From the outside the entrance of Quatsino Sound presents several re-
markable features, which render it easy to be made out. The entrance is
nearly 6 miles wide, and along its South side are several rocks and small
islands; on both sides of, and within the sound the land is high, and some
of the summits are very conspicuous, among others the Flat-top and En-
trance mountains to the northward of the entrance, and the Nose Peak and
Gap mountains inside, the Nose Peak being easily distinguished from its
sharp rocky summit.
The soundings in the entrance, and from 3 to 5 miles outside, vary from
30 to 70 fathoms, but within they deepen in many places to upwards of 100
fathoms. There are several dangers along the South shore at the entrance.
In the fairway are two very dangerous rocks, which only break in heavy
weather, and it requires great caution on the part of the navigator to avoid
them, when entering or leaving the sound.
It is high water, full and change, in Quatsino Sound at 11", the rise and
fall of tide being about 11 feet.
Reef Point, the S.E. entrance point of the sound, is 14 miles N.W. by N.
from Cape Cook, and 1½ mile from Lawn Point, the N.W. extreme of Brooks
Bay. It is low and rocky, but rises gradually to a well-defined summit,
1,901 feet above the sea. The coast between it and Lawn Point forms a
slight bay filled with a number of rocks extending a considerable distance
off shore. Boat River, which runs into a small bight on the South shore of
the sound, 5½ miles within Reef Point, is merely a small stream which a
boat can enter.
Bold Bluff, 7 miles North of Reef Point, on the South side of the sound,
is, as its name implies, a bold, rocky salient bluff, rising suddenly to upwards
of 200 feet, when it slopes gradually to a summit, upwards of 1,600 feet
high; it may be safely approached to a cable. At this spot the sound con-
tracts in breadth to less than a mile.
Surf Islands, upwards of a mile S.S.W. of Bold Bluff, and 3 miles within
the entrance of the sound, are a chain of small islands, about 1 mile long
in a N.W. and S.E. direction, some of which are covered with a few stunted
trees, and are about 40 feet above high water; a short distance from them
QUATSINO SOUND-FORWARD INLET.
369
are a number of breaking rocks, but 3 cables from their South and West
sides are from 10 to 30 fathoms.
Entrance Island, 5 miles N.W. N. from Reef Point, at the N.W. en-
trance point of the sound, is small and rocky, about 140 feet high, and
covered with a few stunted trees. It is steep-to on its S.E. side.
Danger Rocks, a mile within the entrance, nearly in the fairway, are two
very dangerous pinnacle rocks, of small extent, and steep-to on all sides; as
they very seldom break, great caution is required, on entering or leaving the
sound, to avoid them.
The North Danger lies 7 cables E.N.E. from Entrance Island, and breaks
at low water. The South Danger is half a mile S.E. of the North rock, and
is awash at low water spring tides; there is deep water between them.
Bedwell Islets, within the sound on the North side, open North of Bold
Bluff in line with the gap in the centre of Surf Islands, bearing N. by E.
E., leads nearly a mile south-east of the South Danger. Between the
Danger Rocks and Surf Islands, the passage is 1 mile wide, and clear
of danger.
4
FORWARD INLET, on the North side of the sound 1 mile within the
entrance, is about 6 miles long, first taking a north-westerly direction for 2
miles from its outer part, then turning to the N.N.E. for 4 miles, and con-
tracting in breadth; it becomes shoal at the head, and terminates in large
salt water lagoons. There are two anchorages within it, North and Winter
Harbours, the former easy of access to sailing vessels; both are very secure,
and well sheltered.
Entrance and Flat-top Mountains, on the West side of inlet near the en-
trance, are very conspicuous objects from seaward; the former is 1,275, and
the latter nearly 1,000 feet high. Pinnacle Islet, three-quarters of a mile N.
of Entrance Island, at the S.W. entrance point to Forward Inlet, is a small
jagged rock about 40 feet high, with a few trees on its summit.
Robson Island, in the bend of Forward Inlet on the West side, 1 mile from
Pinnacle Islet, is about half a mile in extent, and 400 feet high; its shores
are rocky, but at a distance of a cable free of danger on the North and East
sides. A small village stands on the East side of Forward Inlet, abreast
Robson Island, and close off it is Village Islet, a small bare islet about 40
feet high, which is rather conspicuous.
Bare Islet, lying off the N.E. entrance point to the inlet, is about 12 feet
high, and steep to on the outside. Burnt Hill, 1,095 feet high, just over the
north-east entrance point of Forward Inlet, is remarkable from the south-
ward, being bare of trees and cliffy on its South side; one mile north-east of
it is another conspicuous summit, named Nose Peak, 1,730 ft. high, with a
bare rocky top.
North Pacific.
2 B
370
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
North Harbour, which lies to the N.W. of Robson Island, in a bight on
the West side of Forward Inlet, is a snug and secure anchorage, about 4 ca-
bles in extent, with from 4 to 6 fathoms. The entrance is 3 cables wide, ren-
dering the harbour easy of access to sailing vessels; it is perhaps the best
anchorage within the sound, and from being only 4 miles within the entrance
is very convenient. Browning Creek, in its West part, is 1 mile long, but
very narrow, with from 2 to 5 fathoms water, and terminates in a shallow
basin, dry at low water.
Observatory Islet, which lies on the North side of the entrance to the
harbour, is a small bare rock, connected at low water to the main; in
lat. 50° 29′ 25″; long. 128° 3′ 39″ W. Variation, in 1862, 23° 40′ E.
Winter Harbour comprises that part of Forward Inlet which runs in a
N.N.E. direction, and is a capacious anchorage with from 8 to 11 fathoms.
Its shores are low, and bordered by a sandy beach, and the harbour be-
comes shoal at a distance of a mile from the head; its breadth varies from
2 to 6 cables.
Log Point, just outside the entrance of this harbour on the East side, is
low, and bordered by a sandy beach; to the southward of it, and extending
4 cables off shore, is the New Bank, with 3 fathoms on the shoalest part,
and contracting the breadth of the entrance passage to the harbour to less
than a cable; but by keeping a little over to the West side when abreast
North Harbour, a vessel of the largest size may avoid this bank, and enter
Winter Harbour without danger.
Pilley Shoal, of 3 fathoms, on the North side of the sound, is of small
extent, steep-to on the outside, and marked by kelp. It lies 1 cable off
shore, and 1 mile West from Bold Bluff.
Bedwell Islets, lying 5 miles within the entrance, off a projecting point on
the North side of the sound, are of small extent, wooded, and separated
from the shore by a very narrow boat pass, which is conspicuous from the
entrance; at 3 cables N.E. of them is the Monday Shoal, with 4 fathoms,
which is marked by kelp, and steep-to on the outside.
Koprino Harbour, 8 miles within the entrance, in the centre of a bay on
the North side of the sound, is a perfectly landlocked but small anchorage,
affording room for one or two ships to lie moored within. It lies to the
northward of Plumper Island, which is about half a mile in extent, low,
wooded, and steep-to on all sides, there being a good passage on either side
of it into the harbour.
Dockyard Island, in the West part of the harbour, mid-way between
Plumper Island and the North shore, is small, but may be approached close
to; there is good anchorage 1 cable South of it, in 14 fathoms. Wedge
Island lies at the eastern limit of the anchorage, about 1 cable North of
Plumper Island; there is a deep passage close to on either side of it into the
QUATSINO SOUND-RUPERT ARM.
371
harbour. Observation Islet, at the N.E. extreme of the harbour, is bare, and
about 12 feet high; lat. 50° 30′ N., lat. 127° 52′ 16″ W.
East Passage leads into Koprino Harbour, eastward of Plumper Island.
It is half a mile wide at entrance, and is clear of danger. Prideaux Point,
the East entrance point of East Passage, is low, and bordered by a sandy
beach.
The North shore of Quatsino Sound from Prideaux Point takes a general
north-easterly direction for 9 miles to Coffin Islet, at the entrance of Hecate
Cove. From Bold Bluff the South shore of the sound runs nearly parallel
to the northern one for 13 miles in a north-easterly direction.
It is high,
and indented by two bays of considerable size, and some small creeks,
none of which afford anchorage.
Limestone Island, 15 miles within the entrance, and in the centre of the
sound, is the largest island in the sound, nearly 3 miles long, and about
three-quarters of a mile wide in the broadest part. Its shores are rocky,
but clear of danger, and the island is of moderate height.
South-East Arm, the entrance of which is a mile East of Limestone
Island, and 18 miles within the entrance of the sound, is 10 miles long
in a south-easterly direction, and varies in breadth from 3 cables to one
mile. Its shores are generally high and rugged, but terminate in low
land at the head.
Whitestone Point, at the separation of the two arms at the head of Quat-
sino Sound, is a rocky point of moderate height, and lies three-quarters N.E.
of Limestone Island, abreast Coffin Islet. Bull Rock, which covers, and is
marked by kelp, lies 3 cables South of it, and 2 cables off shore.
Hecate Cove, on the North shore, about 1 mile N.E. of Coffin Islet, runs
in about two-thirds of a mile in a north-westerly direction, is from 2 to 3
cables wide, and affords good anchorage near the centre in 9 to 11 fathoms.
The entrance is clear of danger, but in the inner part of the cove, near the
North side, are some shoal patches, marked by kelp, with only 11 ft. water
in some parts. This cove is convenient for steamers or small craft. Round
Island, nearly in mid-channel about a mile East of Hecate Cove, and just
South of Quatsino Narrows, is small, and of moderate height; there is a
clear passage between it and the North shore, but the one South of it is
filled with rocks.
Quatsino Narrows, 20 miles inside the sound and connecting it with the
Rupert and West Arms, are 2 miles long in a northerly direction; its shores
are high and rocky, but at half a cable's distance clear of danger. The tide
runs through these narrows at a rate of from 4 to 6 knots, and the streams
turn shortly after high and low water.
Rupert Arm, to the N.E. of Quatsino Narrows, is 5 miles long in a north-
2 B 2
372
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
easterly direction, and nearly a mile wide; its shores are high and clear of
danger. Its head terminates in low land, and a bank dries off it for 2
cables.
West Arm trends in a westerly direction nearly 18 miles from the North
part of Quatsino Narrows, and varies in breadth from 2 cables to a mile.
Its shores are generally high and rocky; the northern one is indented by
several small bays. There are two anchorages, one at Coal Harbour, on the
North side, and the other at the edge of the bank, extending from the
head.
Coal Harbour, 2 miles from the narrows, on the North side of West Arm,
is of square shape, from 3 to 4 cables in extent, and affords good anchorage
near the middle in from 12 to 14 fathoms. Indications of coal have been
met in its vicinity.
Directions. Entering Quatsino Sound from the southward, give Reef
Point, its S.E. entrance point, an offing of about 2 miles, and steer North
till Bold Bluff comes in line with the gap in the centre of the Surf Islands,·
N. by E. 2 E., which mark kept on will lead S.E. of Danger Rocks; when
the West side of Robson Island comes open North of Entrance Mount point
in Forward Inlet N.W. by W. W., or Village Islet, on the East side of
that inlet, is just touching Brown Point, bearing N.W., a vessel will be
well East of these rocks. If bound up the sound, round the North end of
Surf Islands at a distance of about half a mile, or if going to Forward In-
let, steer about N. W. by W., taking care not to shut in the South side of
Robson Island with Entrance Mount Point, until Bedwell Islets come open
North of Bold Bluff, bearing N.E., when she will be well North of the
Danger Rocks. Pass from one to two cables off the East sides of the
Low and Robson Islands, and rounding the North point of the latter, at
the same distance, enter North Harbour, and anchor in from 4 to 6 fathoms
near its centre.
Entering Quatsino Sound from the westward, keep an offing of about 2
miles, till Entrance Island bears N.E. or N.E. by N., when steer to pass
about 2 cables East of it, but not further off. When abreast it haul to the
northward, bringing Pinnacle Islet in line with the East side of Low Islets,
bearing N.N.W. W., and steer up with that mark on till Bedwell Islets
come well open North of Bold Bluff, bearing N.E., when enter Forward
Inlet, or proceed further up the sound, as before directed.
4
The COAST of Vancouver Island from Quatsino Sound to Cape Scott, the
N.W. extreme of the island, runs in a general W.N.W. direction; it is
generally rocky and iron-bound, indented by several bays, mostly small, and
from the projecting points some rocks extend in parts nearly a mile off shore.
At a distance of 2 miles off are from 20 to 30 fathoms, sand and rock,
SAN JOSEF BAY-CAPE SCOTT.
373
deepening to 100 fathoms at 10 to 11 miles off shore; to the southward of
the Scott Islands the 100-fathoms line does not appear to extend more than
6 miles from them.
In navigating between Cape Scott and Quatsino Sound, do not approach
the shore nearer than 2 miles.
Ragged Point, 3 miles from the North entrance point of Quatsino Sound,
is a rocky, rugged point of moderate height. Open Bay, which lies just in-
side it, affords landing for boats in fine weather on its East side. The coast
between Open Bay and the entrance to Quatsino Sound is high and cliffy;
some rocks extend nearly a mile off it.
Top-knot Point, 5 miles N.W. of Ragged Point, is low, with a summit 300
feet high, shaped like a top-knot, just within it; some rocks extend half a
mile to the southward from it. Raft Cove, 8 miles from Ragged Point, is an
open bight about a mile in extent, and affords no shelter whatever. Cape
Palmerston, 11 miles north-west from Ragged Point, is a bold, rocky
point, rising to a summit 1,412 feet high; some rocks extend half a mile
from it.
SAN JOSEF BAY, the entrance to which is 14 miles N.W. from Ragged
Point, and 8 miles S.E. of Cape Scott, is an extensive open bay, 3 miles
deep in a north-easterly direction; the breadth at the entrance is nearly 2
miles, narrowing gradually towards the head. Its shores are high, and off
the South side are several off-lying rocks; the soundings vary from 11 to 4.
fathoms, but the bay affords no shelter, except with northerly winds, and
should only be used as a stopping place in fine weather.
Sea Otter Cove, just West of San Josef Bay, is about a mile long in a
northerly direction, and from 2 to 3 cables wide. There are 5 fathoms in
the entrance, and from 1 to 3 fathoms inside it, also several rocks; the shelter
within is very indifferent, and the place only fit for a coaster.
CAPE RUSSELL, 16 miles from Ragged point, and immediately west-
ward of Sea Otter Cove, is a remarkable headland 810 feet high, and the
outer part of a peninsula formed by Sea Otter Cove and a small bay N.W.
of it. Some rocks, which break very heavily, extend nearly a mile South
of the cape.
From Cape Russell to Cape Scott the coast, from 500 to 600 feet high,
trends in a north-westerly direction, and is indented by three open bays,
which are nearly a mile deep, but afford no shelter whatever.
CAPE SCOTT, the N.W. point or extreme of Vancouver Island, is about
500 feet high, and connected to the island by a low sandy neck about one
cable wide. Some rocks extend West of it for more than half a mile, and
there is a bay on either side of the neck, which would afford anchorage to
374
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
boats or small craft in fine weather only; close to its S.W. extreme is a small
creek among the rocks, difficult of access, but once within it, boats may get
shelter in southerly gales.
The northern and eastern coasts of Vancouver Island will be described in
the next Chapter.
(375)
CHAPTER VII.
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
Ar the commencement of the preceding Chapter a brief account is given of
the history of the hydrography of Vancouver Island, and incidentally of that
of the main land adjacent. It will not be necessary to add much to that.
Vancouver's survey was an admirable reconnaissance of the shores of the
strait, which he made known to the world almost for the first time.
But its more important channels and features are now completely repre-
sented in the fine series of charts executed from the surveys made by Capt.
G. H. Richards, assisted by Commander R. C. Mayne, in 1860.
In this chapter will be included an account of the North-east Coast of
Vancouver Island, which lying on the channel which separates it from the
continent, could not be well described except in connection with that coast.
We follow, therefore, the order in which it is given in the Vancouver Island
Pilot.
The country, as is well known, has only been lately thrown open to the
world. Prior to 1858, when the British Government resumed possession of
it from the Hudson's Bay Company, only a few posts of fur traders existed
throughout the land; but in 1857 gold was first discovered (although long
before known to exist by the Hudson's Bay Company's officers), by some
Canadian emigrants, who successfully "prospected" the banks of the Thompson
and Bonaparte Rivers, tributary to the Fraser, and between March and
June, 1858, a rush of gold seekers crowded into the country from California,
and to this day this continues to be the chief object of its commerce.
1866 it was estimated that there were 6,000 white inhabitants on the main-
land, including 3,000 miners, who produced £600,000 value in gold dust.
The native population, most difficult to estimate, was considered to amount
to 40,000. The gold fields are far inland, the principal being that called the
Cariboo.*
In
* The excellent Grand Trunk waggon road from Yale (the head of the navigation on the
Fraser River) to the centre of the mining district of Cariboo, a total length of 375 miles
was completed in 1866, through a country full of engineering difficulties, is a result of
which the young colony might be justly proud.
376
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
A large portion of the country, especially that near the coast, is unfitted
for colonization, owing to its mountainous character.
The Cascade Range, through which the Fraser and Harrison Rivers find
an outlet to the ocean, is about 60 miles inland, and the Fraser bursts through
a gorge in it at about 15 miles above Yale in a succession of terrific rapids or
cañons. This part of the river, and of the wonderful road which has been
constructed along its banks, is graphically described in the admirable book
by Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadle.*
To the northward of Vancouver Island the coast is the western seaboard of
the districts formerly known under the names of New Hanover and New Corn-
wall. The whole of it is fronted by an immense collection of islands of all
dimensions and forms. Within these is a correspondingly extensive series
of channels and arms of the sea, forming a most complete chain of inland
navigation, which may be pursued for many degrees to the northward, with-
out interruption or exposure to the oceanic swell. It is true that in many
parts these canals are too narrow to be very advantageous for sailing vessels
to work through, and are therefore more adapted for steam navigation than
by other modes; yet the great depth of water, in most parts all but un-
fathomable, and the boldness of the shores, make this disadvantage of less
importance. One feature adverted to by Vancouver, who has excellently
surveyed part of this inland navigation, and which is remarkable, is, that
caution ought to be used in passing close to some of the projecting points,
for he found that, notwithstanding the perpendicularity of the cliffs compos-
ing the shores, that a shelf would sometimes project under water, from the
general line of the upper portion, a fact which, if neglected, might lead to
serious consequences.
Besides these channels the continent is penetrated with numerous, and
peculiar canals, whose characteristics, greatly similar in all cases, will be best
gathered from the ensuing descriptions. There are no rivers, or at least
none of importance have been discovered. They are mere torrents, fed in
summer by the melting of the snow, and in the winter by the untiring
* In the higher parts of the Fraser, and indeed of all other rivers which flow into it, a
remarkable feature, which extends 300 miles, is described in the same work. Along the
sides of the mountains which confine the river beds are three terraces-or benches as they
are called-perfectly level, and of exactly the same height on each side of the river,
evidently the beaches of some lake in former ages of the world's history. The formation
of the canon of the lower Fraser suggested their origin to the travellers. They supposed
that the gorge through which the river now flows had been partially broken down, perhaps
by some grand convulsion of nature at three separate intervals, and thus lowered the surface
of the lake, the surf of which had worn the beach it washed to a level strand, to the lower
levels as they now appear. See "The North-west Passage by Land," by Viscount Milton
and Dr. W. B. Cheadle, 1865, pp. 338-347.
STRAIT OF GEORGIA.
377
deluges of this dismal climate. The Babine, the Nass, and the Skina or Sti-
kine, are the only ones that may be ascended to any distance, and even these
only with considerable difficulty and danger.
The primary discovery of the country has been before adverted to, and
many of the remarks are as applicable to this as to other portions; but
it arose from the zeal and perseverance of two intelligent men, who traded
hither under the licence of the South Sea Company. These were Capts.
Portlock and Dixon; they made the principal discoveries on the coast
subsequent to Captain Cook's visit in his last voyage. Their narratives
are, nevertheless, too diffuse, and abound too much with personal narrative
and minutiæ to afford much general information on the country they visited.
It is to the excellent surveys of Vancouver, in 1792, that we owe the greater
part of the knowledge we possess of the inland navigation and nautical in-
formation of this country.
Besides Portlock, Dixon, and Vancouver, the Spaniards surveyed a portion,
and their charts fill up the vacancies left by the other; but of their surveys
we have no verbal description to be of service. In the voyages of Meares,
previously adverted to, there are also some notices of visitors to this
coast during the origin of the fur trade, as before explained, as arising out
of the notice afforded by Captain Cook. Then Captain Ingraham visited
the S.E. side of Queen Charlotte Island; and Captain Gray, who discovered
the Columbia River, first explored it in the Washington, which name he
applied to it.
STRAIT OF GEORGIA.-Having passed out of the Strait of Fuca by
either of the channels described in Chapter VI, pages 274-311 ante, when
to the north-westward of a line drawn between East point of Saturna Island
and Whitehorn Point of the main, a vessel may be considered well in the
Strait of Georgia, but before entering upon any description of the latter, it
may be well to offer a few remarks on the comparative merits of the two
inain channels which lead into it, viz., Haro and Rosario Straits; both have
their advantages and disadvantages under varying conditions.
Haro Strait is more tortuous; the water is so deep that it would be im-
possible for a vessel to anchor in the main stream, and for its whole length
the tides, though not stronger, are more varying in their direction.
Rosario Strait leads by a very gentle curve almost a straight course into
the Strait of Georgia; the depth of water, although considerable, is such
that if necessary a vessel might anchor in it; in one part it is somewhat
narrower than the narrowest parts of Haro Strait, and the tides run with
equal strength; it has its sunken rocks and dangers in an equal degree with
the Haro, and perhaps the anchorages in point of numbers and facilities
for reaching them are equal in both. Extreme care and vigilance are called
for in navigating either with a sailing vessel; to one with steam power,
neither offer any difficulties.
378
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
A glance at the chart will show that to a vessel bound from sea, or from
any of the southern ports of Vancouver Island, to the Strait of Georgia,
the Haro Channel is preferable, and it will be equally evident that to reach
the same destination from Admiralty Inlet or Puget Sound Rosario Strait is
the most direct and desirable. Having entered, however, by either channel,
the promontory of Roberts Point will be immediately seen with its conspi-
cuous white-faced cliff, and appearing as an island. From the northern
entrance of Haro Strait it will bear N.N.W. 11 miles; and from the Rosario
N.W. by W. 15 miles.
The general direction of the Strait of Georgia is W.N.W., and from a
position midway between Saturna and Patos Islands, 19 miles on this course
should take a vessel abreast the entrance of Fraser River, the sand heads
bearing N.N.E., distant 3 miles; and for this distance the breadth of the
strait, not including the deep indentation of Semiahmoo Bay, is 10 miles.
Continuing the same course for a further distance of 19 miles, will lead
between Burrard Inlet on the East, and Nanaimo Harbour on the West,
the entrance of the former bearing about N.E. E. 16 miles, and the
latter S.W. W. 7 miles.
The breadth of the strait, after passing the sand heads of the Fraser, in-
creases to 14 miles; and between Nanaimo and Burrard Inlet it is 20 miles.
The depth of water is from 70 to 100 fathoms between Roberts Point and
the western side of the strait, and further to the westward between Burrard
Inlet and Nanaimo as much as 200 fathoms in the centre.
The dangers to be avoided in working through the strait are, on the east-
ern shore, Roberts and Sturgeon Banks; and on the western, the neigh-
bourhood of East Point, and Tumbo Island, and the Coasts of Saturna and
Mayne Islands, until beyond the entrance of Active Pass. A chain of
reefs and rocky islets lie parallel with this shore, in places extending
nearly a mile off; and as the bottom is rocky and irregular, with a consider-
able strength of tide, vessels are recommended not to approach it within 2
miles.
It should also be remembered that the ebb sets to the S.W., through
Active Pass, and that tide races occur in its northern entrance. Roberts
Bank is easily avoided, especially since the establishment of the lightvessel
in 1866. If the weather is thick, when 50 fathoms is struck, a vessel will be
getting very near the edge.
The Tides, although not nearly so strong as among the Haro Archipelago,
yet run with considerable strength, as much as 3 knots, particularly during
the freshets of summer, when the Fraser River discharges an immense
volume of fresh water, which takes a southerly direction over the banks, and
almost straight for the mouth of Active Pass. This peculiar milky-coloured
water is frequently carried quite across the strait, and is sometimes seen in
the inner channels washing the shores of Vancouver Island; at other times
ROBERTS POINT.
379
it reaches the centre of the channel only, forming a remarkable and most
striking contrast with the deep blue waters of the Strait of Georgia.
Below the mouth of the Fraser, the tide is rather the stronger on the
western shore. On the eastern side, within the line between Roberts and
Sandy Points, scarcely any tide is felt; and vessels will gain by working
up on that shore with the ebb, where good anchorage can also be found, if
necessary.
Allowance must be made for the tides, which is not difficult, having
once entered the Strait of Georgia by daylight, and knowing which tide
was running.
The COAST of the Washington Territory, to the southward of the
boundary separating it from British Columbia, has been previously described
in pages 268–270. We commence with the promontory to the southward of
the entrance of the Fraser River.
ROBERTS POINT is the termination of a remarkable promontory which
stretches southerly from the delta of the Fraser River. It presents a broad
face to the southward, and its southern extreme is a little more than 12 miles
South of the 49th parallel of latitude; the eastern point of the promontory
is a remarkable white-faced cliff, 200 feet high, its summit crowned with.
trees. From it the land gradually falls to the westward and terminates in
Roberts Spit, a low shingle point, within which is a small space of level clear
land, where a few wooden buildings were erected on the first discovery of
gold in the Fraser River, and named Roberts Town; for a few months it
served as a depot for the miners, but it has long been deserted.
From this spit the coast trends to the N.N.W., with bluff shores of
moderate height for 3½ miles, when it merges into the swampy delta of the
Fraser. From most points of view, and particularly from the southward,
Roberts Point presents the appearance of an island. Shoal water, and rocky
irregular bottom, on which kelp grows in summer, extends for more than a
mile E.S.E. from the white face of the point, and vessels are recommended
to give it a good berth.
Anchorage will be found on either side of the promontory; to the eastward
in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, with the extreme of the white cliff bearing
W.S.W. distant 1½ mile; Roberts Spit, the western termination of the pro-
montory, should be just shut in by the white cliff. To the westward of the
spit there is fair anchorage in 8 fathoms good holding ground, with the spit
extreme distant three-quarters of a mile, and in one with Mount Constitution
on Orcas Island bearing S.E. E., a white flagstaff at the North end of the
low land of the point N.E. by E. ½ E., and the bare bluff of the 49° parallel
or the monument on its summit N.W.; here the edge of the bank will be
distant a quarter of a mile, and a ship should not anchor any further to the
northward, as the Roberts Bank trends rapidly to the westward.
There is a granite monument 25 feet high erected on the summit of the
380
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
parallel bluff, which is only just visible from the anchorage on account of
the trees; it marks the boundary between the British and United States pos-
sessions, and is mentioned on page 269 previously.
Ships should not lie at this anchorage with strong southerly or westerly
winds, but should shift round to the eastern one, or to Semiahmoo Bay,
which is always safe, and anchorages in almost any part.
ROBERTS BANK, caused by the sediment deposited by the stream of the
Fraser River, extends from the spit of Roberts Point in a W. by N.
direction for 9 miles, to the Sand Heads or river entrance, and at this
point is 5 miles from the shore; it then takes a N.N.W. direction for a
further distance of 12 miles, joining Grey Point on the North, as it does
Roberts Point on the South. The portion of the bank northward of the
Fraser has been named the Sturgeon Bank; it is steep-to, and a mile out-
side the edge the soundings are from 70 to 60 fathoms, then 20, and imme-
diately 2 fathoms.
FRASER RIVER, in point of magnitude and present commercial import-
ance, is second only to the Columbia on the N.W. coast of America. In its
entire freedom from risk of life and shipwreck, it possesses infinite advan-
tages over any other river on the coast, and the cause of this immunity
from the dangers and inconveniences to which all great rivers emptying
themselves on an exposed coast are subject, is sufficiently obvious. A shel-
tered strait, scarcely 15 miles across, receives its waters; and the neighbour-
ing Island of Vancouver serves as a natural breakwater, preventing the pos-
sibility of any sea arising which would prove dangerous to vessels even of
the smallest class, unless they ground.
To the same cause may be attributed in a great measure the fixed and
unvarying character of the shoals through which this magnificent stream
pursues its undevious course into the Strait of Georgia; and there can be
little doubt that it is destined, at no distant period, to fulfil to the utmost
as it is already partially fulfilling, the purposes for which nature ordained
it-the outlet for the products of a great country, whose riches in mineral
and agricultural wealth are daily being more fully discovered and developed.
The river, with its numerous tributaries, has its rise in the rocky moun-
tains, between 400 and 500 miles from the coast in a northerly direction, from
whence it forces its way in torrents and rapids, through one of the many
great parallel valleys which intersect this region, confined by gigantic
mountains, with large tracts of country, rich in agricultural resources on
either side of them, until it reaches the town of Hope,* which is about
80 miles by the windings of the river, in an easterly direction from its
entrance.
* Hope is an old station of the Hudson's Bay Company. Its site is the most beautiful
in British Columbia—a wooded level shut in by an amphitheatre of lofty mountains-Yale
FRASER RIVER.
381
Above the City of Lytton, which stands at the fork or confluence of the
Fraser and Thompson Rivers, 55 miles above Hope, many rich deltas occur,
or as they are termed by the miners, bars, and among these known as the
wet diggings, gold was first discovered in British Columbia.
At Hope the river assumes the character of a navigable stream; steamers
of light draught reach this point and even the town of Yale, 15 miles above
it, during from six to nine months of the year. In June, July, and August,
the melting of the snow causes so rapid a downward stream that vessels,
even of high steam power, are rarely able to stem it, and during these
months numbers of large trees are brought down from the flooded banks,
which offer another serious obstruction to navigation. Between Hope and
Langley, the latter 30 miles from the river's mouth, there is always a con-
siderable strength of current from 4 to 7 knots, at times more; but at
Langley the river becomes a broad, deep, and placid stream, and except
during the three summer months, the influence of the flood stream is gene-
rally felt, and vessels of any draught may conveniently anchor.
is 10 fathoms; the current not above 3 knots.
The depth
Midway between Langley and Hope the Harrison River falls into the
Fraser and by it a long chain of lakes extending in a general N.W. direc-
tion, a comparatively easy route has been established, by which the Upper
Fraser is reached at a point just below the Bridge River, in the heart of the
gold region, thus avoiding that difficult and at present almost impassable
part of the country between the town of Yale and the Fountains, by the main
river a distance of about 90 miles.
Vessels of 18 feet draught may enter the Fraser near high water, and
proceed as high as Langley with ease, provided they have or are assisted by
steam power. The only difficulty is between the Sand Heads and Garry
Point, the entrance proper of the river, but while there are competent pilots,
and the buoys remain in their positions, this difficulty disappears. The
lightship is a sufficient guide for making the entrance. It must be remem-
bered, however, that the tides of the strait of Georgia sweep across the
channel of the entrance, and a large ship is recommended to enter or leave
with the last quarter of the flood.
The great quantity of deposit brought down by the freshets of summer,
has created an extensive series of banks, which extend 5 miles outside the
entrance proper of the river. The main stream has forced an almost straight
though somewhat narrow channel through these banks, and at its junction
with the current of the strait of Georgia, which runs at right angles to it,
upon a grander scale. Before the discovery of the Cariboo mines, it was a place of con-
siderable importance, but has now "caved in," and become desolate.-Viscount Milton and
Dr. Cheadle, p. 348.
382
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
has caused the wall-edged bank before alluded to, extending to Roberts
Point on the South and Grey Point on the North.
The river is at its lowest stage during the months of January, February,
and March. In April it commences to rise from the melting of the snows, and
is perhaps 2 feet above its lowest level; the flood stream is strong enough to
swing a ship at New Westminster up to the end of this month. In May the
water rises rapidly, the river is at its highest about the end of June, and re-
mains up with trifling fluctuations until the end of July or middle of August.
During these six weeks the banks are overflowed, and extensive plains
above Langley covered for a space of several miles; the strength of the stream
between Langley and Hope being from 4 to 7 knots, and in the narrow parts
even more. The usual rise of the river at Langley due to these floods is
about 14 feet, but from the testimony of an officer of the Hudson's Bay
Company, who has resided more than 30 years there, it has been known to
reach 25 feet.
From the middle to the end of August the waters begin to subside, and
in September the stream is not inconveniently strong. September, October,
and November are favourable months for the river navigation, as the water
is then sufficiently high to reach Hope, and the strength of the current con-
siderably abated. The shallow stern wheel steamers have got to Hope as
late as December; between this month and April, owing to the shoalness of
the water, and the great quantity of ice formed, navigation even by these
vessels only drawing 18 inches, is attended with great difficulty, and rarely
practicable at all. The snags or drift trees which become imbedded in the
river, also form a serious obstacle to navigation at this season.
In April, the steamers commence again to run. In June, July, and
August, the rapidity of the current is the great obstacle, but these high-
pressure vessels commanding a speed of 11 and 12 knots frequently accom-
plish the voyage, though at much risk.
The Harrison River route (page 381) obviates some, but not all of these
difficulties. At New Westminster the freshets raise the level of the river
about 6 feet, but the banks being high no inconvenience is felt, and the
strength of the stream is rarely 5 knots, during the winter from 2 to 3; for
some miles within the entrance the low banks are partially flooded for a
month or six weeks. The rise and fall due to tidal causes is from 8 to 10 ft.
at springs, between the Sand Heads and the entrance of the river proper
at Garry Point; at New Westminster it is 6 feet, and at Langley scarcely
perceptible.
The Lightvessel, which was placed off the entrance in 1866, lies in 10
fathoms on the South Sand Heads. She is painted red, with her name in white
letters. She has two masts, and a red ball on the mainmast. By night she
shows a fixed light at 54 feet, seen 10 miles off. In foggy weather a bell is
sounded
NEW WESTMINSTER.
383
There are no natural marks sufficiently well defined, or which are not too
distant, or too liable to be obscured in cloudy weather, to enable a vessel by
their help alone to hit the narrow entrance between the Sand Heads with
accuracy, or without the aid afforded by the lightvessel on the South Sand
Head. The northern edge of the channel within is marked by spar buoys, for
the colour of which see chart.
When up with the lightvessel at the entrance, a remarkable solitary bushy
tree will be seen on Garry Point, the northern entrance point of the river
proper, straight for which is the general direction of the channel. It bears
from between the Sand Heads N.N.E. a little easterly, and is just 5 miles
distant. Although to steer direct for this tree would not clear the outer
edges of either bank for the whole length of the channel, yet it will be found
an excellent guide, to give almost the straight line in, should the buoys be
removed.
The South Sand Head dries before low water, and has frequently a ripple
on it when covered; when near the lightvessel, it should be brought to bear
N.N.E., and then steer to leave it a cable's length on the starboard side,
which will lead nearly in mid-channel, the buoys then on the port or North
side of the channel should be kept from half a cable to a cable on the port
hand. The least depth in the channel is 11 or 12 feet at low water, and this
occurs about midway between the Sand Heads and Garry Point; at or near
high water from 18 to 20 feet, and sometimes 22 feet, may be carried into
within 1½ mile of Garry Point, when it deepens to 4 and 5 fathoms; the point
should be passed close.
There is always a great quantity of drift wood on the point, and the
northern side of the river should be kept aboard for nearly 2 miles, where
from 8 to 10 fathoms will be found; it is then necessary to cross to the South
side, and to keep close along it, passing the mouth of the South or Boat
Channel, nearly 2 miles above which, and abreast a clump of high trees,
cross again to the North bank to the left of two low sandy islands; the
channel then leads rather along the North side of the river, and with the
assistance of the chart will be found sufficiently easy for vessels of 20 feet
draught until 6 or 7 miles above Langley.
It is not, however, recommended for a stranger to enter without a pilot.
NEW WESTMINSTER, at first chosen as the capital of British Columbia,
a dignity now ceded to Victoria, stands on the North or right bank of the
Fraser River, just above the junction of the North Fork, and 15 miles in a
general north-easterly direction from the entrance proper. It occupies a
commanding and well chosen position, being within an easy distance of the
entrance, and having great facilities for wharfage along its water frontage,
a good depth of water, and excellent anchorage.
The river bank is somewhat precipitous in places, and the country at
the back is like all the lower parts of the Fraser (unless, indeed, in the
384
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
immediate neighbourhood of the entrance, where it is swampy grass land,
subject to inundation during the freshets of summer), densely wooded; a
considerable clearing, however, of the timber has taken place in the vicinity
of the town, which already assumes a prominent and thriving aspect, and
when the facilities for entering the river and its capabilities are better known,
will no doubt rise more rapidly into importance.
The military establishment or camp of the Royal Engineers, a mile above
New Westminster, is a most picturesque spot, commanding an uninterrupted
view of the Queen's Reach, a broad, deep, and magnificent sheet of water.
From the camp to Port Moody, an excellent harbour at the head of Burrard
Inlet is 4 miles in a North direction; a good trail exists between the two
places, and a waggon road is in course of construction to the outer harbour
of the inlet, which, when completed, will be an important work. At 5 miles
eastward of New Westminster is the entrance to the Pitt River, which runs
in a general direction from N.N.E. to N.E. for 28 miles, terminating in two
remarkable lakes enclosed between almost perpendicular mountains, and na-
vigable to the head for vessels of 14 feet draught, the depth in places being
far too great for anchorage. A large tract of low grass land lies on both
sides of the entrance of the Pitt, which, however, is generally overflowed, or
partially so, during six weeks of summer.
DERBY or NEW LANGLEY is 12 miles above New Westminster in an
easterly direction, on the South or opposite side of the river; the channel
between is deep, and there are no impediments to navigation. This spot was
first selected as the capital, and as a town site it is unobjectionable, having a
considerable tract of good cleared land in its neighbourhood, and all the re-
quirements of a commercial port; the depth of water here is 10 fathoms.
Large vessels may proceed with ease 7 miles beyond Langley, the navigation
then becomes somewhat intricate, and the current too rapid for any vessels
but steamers of light draught and great power.
The NORTH FORK is another entrance to the Fraser, navigable for
vessels drawing 6 or 8 feet water, and is generally used by the natives pro-
ceeding to or from Burrard Inlet. Its junction with the main stream occurs
immediately below New Westminster, from whence it runs in a westerly di-
rection, and enters the Strait of Georgia through the Sturgeon Bank, about
5 miles northward of the Sand Heads; a large low partially wooded island
lies in its entrance, and splits the channel into two arms.
In many parts of the North Fork the water is deep, in holes, and the bot-
tom irregular; it can only be considered a boat channel.
BURRARD INLET is the first great harbour which indents the shores of
British Columbia North of the 49th parallel. It is the Brazo de Florida
Blanca of Galiano and Valdez. Its entrance, which is between Grey Point
on the South and Atkinson Point on the North, is 14 miles N.N.W. from the
Sand Heads of Fraser River, 20 miles N. by E. from Portier Pass, and 21
BURRARD INLET.
385
3
miles N.E. E. from Entrance Island of Nanaimo. Howe Sound imme-
diately adjoins it on the North, Atkinson Point, the northern entrance point.
of the inlet, being the eastern limit of the sound.
The entrance of the inlet is well marked; Grey Point, a long wooded pro-
montory terminating in a rounded bluff, is very conspicuous from the south-
ward, while Bowen Island, which lies at the entrance of Howe Sound, and may
also be said to form the northern boundary of the inlet, is very remarkable;
its high round and almost bare summit, Mount Gardner, reaching an eleva-
tion of 2,479 feet, is easily recognised from any point of view. Passage
Island, small but prominent, lies in the eastern passage of Howe Sound,
midway between Bowen Island and Atkinson Point, and is an excellent mark
from the southward; as before observed, Anvil peak, on with or just open
westward of this island bearing N. by W. W., clears the edge of the
Sturgeon Bank.
3
Burrard Inlet differs from most of the great sounds of this coast in being
extremely easy of access to vessels of any size or class, and in the convenient
depth of water for anchorage which may be found in almost every part of
it; its close proximity to Fraser River, with the great facilities for construct-
ing roads between the two places, likewise adds considerably to its import-
ance. Owing to these advantages, and from its possession of unbounded pine
forests, two saw mills were completed in 1866, which now produce large
quantities of excellent timber, especially from the Douglas pine. It is divided
into three distinct harbours, viz., English Bay, or the outer anchorage, Coal
Harbour above the first Narrows, and Port Moody at the head of the eastern
arm of the inlet.
English Bay is more than 3 miles in breadth at the entrance between
Grey and Atkinson Points, which bear from each other N.N.W. and S.S.E.,
and carries the same breadth for nearly its entire length or almost 4 miles;
it is contracted in some measure, however, by the Spanish Bank, dry at low
water, which extends in a northerly direction from Grey Point three-quarters
of a mile, and then curves easterly.
This anchorage is well protected from westerly winds by the Spanish
Bank, and as there is a good rise and fall of tide, as much as 16 feet at
springs, and a clean shelving sandy beach at the creek, it would be a desira-
ble place to beach a ship for repairs. The head of English Bay on the S.
shore terminates in a shoal arm, named False Creek; on the North shore it
leads by the First Narrows to Coal Harbour.
Coal Harbour is on the South side of the inlet, 2 miles within the First
Narrows. Vessels intending to pass above the Narrows must attend to the
tides, and a stranger will do well to anchor in English Bay before pro-
ceeding higher up.
The First Narrows lie between the bluff of Coal Peninsula and the North
side of the inlet, where the breadth of the channel is not more than 14 cable
North Pacific.
20
386
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
with a depth of 12 fathoms. When at the entrance of the Narrows, the
mid-channel course is E. by S. 1 S. for 1 mile, when the inlet is again
reached.
The strength of the tide in the narrowest part of the First Narrows is from
4 to 8 knots. The only directions necessary for a steamer are to keep the
South shore aboard, and to be quick and careful with the helm; small craft
may go through with ease, the tide being favourable; to a sailing ship a
knowledge of the locality is necessary.
It is high water, full and change, at Burrard Inlet, at 6 p.m.; and the
rise is 16 feet. The ebb stream commences directly it is high water by the
shore, and runs out for two hours after it is low. There is consequently only
4 hours' flood stream.
Between the First and Second Narrows, a distance of 4 miles, the course
of the inlet is E. & N., varying in breadth from half to 1½ mile. The Second
Narrows are similar to the First. A bank of the first description, but more
extensive, is caused by the deposit brought down from the high mountains
by the numerous streams which empty themselves into the inlet on the North
side. The channel is straight, and the tides which run from 3 to 7 knots set
fairly through it. The only directions necessary are to keep the South shore
close aboard, and steer from point to point.
Port Moody. The entrance of this snug harbour is 4 miles eastward of
the Second Narrows, at the head of the eastern arm of the inlet. It is 3
miles in length, and varies in breadth from a third to half a mile, except at
its entrance, where it is only 2 cables across; there are no dangers, and a
uniform depth of water, with good holding ground. Abreast the turning
point, ond on the North shore, a bank dries off it for nearly 2 cables at low
water, on which good oysters are found.
North Arm, just before reaching Port Moody, and 3 miles above the
Second Narrows, branches off from the main inlet, and runs in a general
northerly direction for 11 miles. It is entirely different in its character from
other portions of the inlet. The depth of water varies from 50 to 110 fa-
thoms, and it is enclosed on both sides by rugged mountains rising from
2,000 to 5,000 feet almost perpendicularly, and down the steep sides of
which the melting snow in summer forces its way in foaming cascades, ren-
dering the surface water in the inlet below all but fresh.
During the winter months fresh water is to be obtained in all parts of Bur-
rard Inlet, and probably the whole year round there would be no scarcity;
in June there is abundance at the creek in English Bay, off which is
the anchorage. In Port Moody there is a fine stream close to the oyster
bank.
( 387 )
SOUTHERN SHORE OF THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA.
GABRIOLA REEFS are a dangerous cluster of rocks, some of which
cover at half flood, others having a few feet water over them. They lie 2
miles off the eastern point of Gabriola Island, mentioned on page 311 ante,
8 miles below the entrance of Nanaimo Harbour, and cover a space of half
a mile. From the North point of Portier Pass, the outer extreme of the
reef bears N.W. N. 8 miles; and from the easternmost of the Flat-top
Islands, a group of low wooded islets lying close off the East end of Gabriola
Island, E. S. 1½ miles. There is a passage inside the reefs, but it is not
recommended.
The marks most convenient for vessels coming from the southward are to
keep the North and S. W. entrance points of Portier Pass just touching, on
a bearing S.S.E. E., which will lead more than a mile eastward, and work-
ing up, while the first summit of Gabriola Island inside Berry Point is open
clear of the Flat-top Islands, the reef will just be cleared.
Westward of Flat-top Island the shore of Gabriola is bold until near
Berry Point and Entrance Island, when it should not be approached within
a long half mile. Foul ground extends for some distance eastward of the
point of the island.
Entrance Island lies half a mile N.N.E. of Berry Point, the N.E. ex-
treme of Gabriola Island. It is rocky, 30 feet high, formed of sandstone,
bare of trees, but has some vegetation on it. Vessels passing up the strait
bound for Nanaimo should round this island. There is a deep passage be-
tween it and Berry Point named Forwood Channel, something more than 2
cables in breadth, which steamers or small craft may use; but the South
and West sides of Entrance Island must be avoided, as reefs and broken
ground extend 2 cables off them.
Having rounded this island at the distance of half a mile, or more if con-
venient, the entrance of Nanaimo Harbour will be distant 5 miles. There
are three channels leading to the harbour, viz., Fairway, Middle, and Inner.
Fairway Channel is the most convenient for vessels bound to Nanaimo from
the southward or eastward; but Middle Channel is certainly the safest and
most desirable for vessels from the northward.
Fairway Channel is the most direct for vessels entering from the south-
ward or eastward. It lies between the shore of Gabriola and Lighthouse
Island, which is a smooth-topped, grassy, sandstone island, 3 cables in
extent North and South, about 50 ft. high, and bears from Entrance Island
W. by S. S. 3 miles. A ledge of rocks 4 cables long in a North and South
direction, lies E.S.E. nearly half a mile from the island. The depth of
water is 9 feet on its northern edge, and 20 feet on its southern. The ledge
is generally covered with streaming kelp, and has a channel of 7 fathoms
2c2
388
VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC.
water between it and the island; its North edge bears from the South point
of Lighthouse Island N.E. by E. 3 cables, and its South end E.S.E, nearly
half a mile.
The breadth of Fairway Channel between this ledge and Rocky Point of
Gabriola Island is full three-quarters of a mile. For a distance of 2 cables
off the latter point from 4 to 7 fathoms, rocky bottom will be found, where
occasionally kelp grows, but nothing exists which would bring a ship up.
A mid-channel course is recommended, which from a berth half a mile off
Entrance Island is S.W. W. for 3 miles. The water is deep, and the
bottom irregular, varying from 15 to 40 fathoms. If to the southward of
mid-channel it will shoal to 15 fathoms, and shortly to 8 fathoms off Rocky
Point.
DIRECTIONS.-Having entered the Strait of Georgia, between East point
of Saturna and Patos Island, a W.N.W. course for 38 miles will lead nearly
3 miles outside Gabriola Reefs, and abreast Entrance Island, the latter
bearing S.W., distant 5 miles. A vessel proceeding through Fairway Chan-
nel, if northward of mid-channel must keep a look-out for the kelp on
Lighthouse Island ledge; when Lighthouse Island bears N.W. steer S. ₫ W.,
which leads for the entrance of Nanaimo Harbour, distant a little over 2
miles. Strangers should be careful not to mistake for it Northumberland
Channel, which latter lies from Lighthouse Island in a S.S.E. direction,
between the high cliffy West coast of Gabriola Island and Sharp Point, a
remarkable narrow projection on the main, and off which, at the distance of
half a cable, is a rock which uncovers.
Having passed between Lighthouse and Gabriola Islands, there is a good
working space of 1 mile in breadth, between Gabriola on the East and
Newcastle and Protection Islands on the West, but the water is too deep for
anchorage. The shores of the latter islands should not be approached within
a quarter of a mile, as shoal rocky ledges extend off them. Having brought
Gallows Point, the southern extreme of Protection Island, to bear S.W. W.,
the town will open out.
A vessel may anchor, if necessary, with the high-water mark of Gallows
Point bearing W.N.W., distant a quarter of a mile, which will be in the
fairway of the entrance, but it is difficult for a sailing vessel to pick up a
berth here with a strong breeze, as the space for anchorage is confined.
NANAIMO HARBOUR, when the banks are covered, gives the idea of a
large sheet of water, but the deep part is limited.
A
The entrance lies between Gallows Point and the southern bank.
rocky ledge extends for 14 cable on every side of the point, and in summer
is marked by kelp; a large boulder stands on the ledge off the point, distant
150 yards, and covers before high water. The South side of the channel is
the northern edge of the great shallow bay to the southward, which,
NANAIMO HARBOUR.
389
although it does not quite dry in this part, has only 2 or 3 feet on it at low
water, and is steep-to. The entrance is here marked on either side by a
spar buoy about a cable apart in a North and South direction; within them
the harbour opens out, but in its centre is the Middle Bank, 2 cables long
in a northerly direction, and half a cable broad, with a spar buoy on either
end. Two narrow winding channels, the North and South, lead into the
usual anchorage, which is close off the town, and westward of the Middle
Bank. Both are buoyed in the vicinity of the latter, but no stranger should
enter either channel without a pilot.
A remarkable white patch on the cliffy shore of Gabriola Island just
open northward of the extreme of Sharp Point, the latter bearing E. by N.
N., leads through the channel until near Gallows Point, which should be
rounded at a little more than a cable's length. In the North channel two
spar buoys will then be seen, a cable's length apart, the southern one on the
North end of the Middle bank, the North one on South edge of the Satel-
lite Reef; steer about West to pass between them, then haul close round the
southern buoy, and steer for the Mine Chimney. Anchor close off the town
in 5 fathoms, midway between the buoy and Beacon Rock, which dries at
low water, and has a buoy on it. The South channel, though of sufficient
depth for large vessels, has a somewhat sharp turn at its western end, but
is very convenient for vessels leaving with a northerly wind, when they
would be obliged to warp out of the North channel.
COAL.-The mines of Nanaimo produce a fair bituminous coal, which
answers well for steaming purposes. It is lighter by about 10 per cent. than
Welsh coal, and its consumption proportionately rapid. The working of the
mines have not yet been undertaken on a scale commensurate with their im-
portance, probably owing to the demand having been hitherto comparatively
small. As the quality of the coal, however, is becoming better known, the
demand is rapidly increasing. It is now exported to California in large
quantities, and ships are inconveniently detained waiting for cargoes.
Some new and very promising seams have lately been discovered by boring,
and the quality is said to be superior to any hitherto found.
Newcastle Island produces large quantities, and the mines there are being
rather extensively worked. The Nanaimo coal is far superior to any that
has yet been discovered or worked in this country, and there can be little
doubt but that it exists in sufficient quantities to supply the whole Pacific
coast for almost an indefinite period. The present price is 25 shillings, or 6
dollars per ton.
Departure Bay.-A long narrow channel or arm between Newcastle.
Island and the main leads in a N.W. direction from Nanaimo Harbour to
Departure Bay. It is 1 mile in length, and a cable in breadth, with 12 ft.
at low water, except on a rock, which has only 2 feet on it, lying in the
centre, 2 cables north-westward of Rocky Point, the South point of Newcastle
390
VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC.
Island. Vessels of 15 or 16 feet draught may enter Departure Bay by this
channel at suitable times of tide, but large vessels must enter northward of
Newcastle Island.
From Lighthouse Island, the entrance of Departure Bay bears S. W. ½ W.,
distant 2 miles, and lies between the steep cliffy North point of Newcastle
Island, and a small island to the northward of it. The breadth of this
channel is 3 cables, and the depth 20 fathoms. Little less than this depth
will be found in any part of the bay, and it is not nearly so sheltered as
Nanaimo Harbour.
Vessels intending to load with coals (and there is no other inducement to
anchor here), should bring the steep North point of Newcastle Island to
bear N. by E., and anchor in not less than 18 fathoms, off the coal mine,
2 cables from the shore; the bank runs up steep within this depth, and
shoals from 12 to 2 fathoms. Unless anchored well out, a vessel is liable,
with N.W. winds, to tail on the bank; and ships are not recommended to
lie here after they have got their cargo in. A stranger should take a pilot
for the coaling station in Departure Bay, either from outside or in Nanaimo
Harbour.
Middle Channel lies between Lighthouse and Five-finger Island, 1½ mile
W.N.W. from it. The latter is a bare rugged islet of about the same dimen-
sions as the former, but of trap formation, instead of sandstone; the five
hummocks on it resemble knuckles more than fingers. The channel is per-
fectly free from danger, and has a depth of 80 fathoms.
S.S.W. of Five-finger Island are three smaller islets of similar character
and formation, with some rocks about them which uncover. Inner Channel,
4 cables in breadth, lies between the above islets and the shore of the main,
and being more direct, is convenient for steamers or small craft.
Tides. It is high water, full and change, at Nanaimo Harbour, about 5
p.m., and the range of tide is sometimes 16 feet, which is as much as is
met with anywhere on the coast, and makes this a most eligible spot for
the construction of docks, for which it offers peculiar facilities. This great
range of tide only occurs at midnight during winter, and in the daytime in
summer. The superior and inferior tides exist here as they do at Esquimalt
and among the Haro archipelago. On the opposite coast, at Burrard Inlet,
this irregularity does not exist.
NORTHUMBERLAND CHANNEL, before mentioned as lying between
Sharp point and the western shore of Gabriola Island, runs in a S.E. direc-
tion for 1 mile, and then East for 2 miles, when it enters the Dodd and
False Narrows, the former on the South side of Mudge Island, the
latter on the North; a rock which uncovers extends half a cable off the
extreme of Sharp Point. False Narrows are shoal, with no ship passage.
Dodd Narrows have been already described from the southward. They
communicate with the inner channels leading to the southern ports, and
THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA.
391
save a distance of 20 miles in the passage from Nanaimo to Victoria or
Esquimalt.
The STRAIT of GEORGIA, as already observed, commences at the
northern end of the Haro Archipelago, and extends in a general W.N.W.
direction to Cape Mudge, a distance of 110 miles. There are many har-
bours, both on the Vancouver and continental shores, and several islands,
some of considerable size, form other channels, all of which are navigable.
The average width of the main strait westward of Nanaimo is about 9
miles, diminishing at its narrowest part between Lasqueti and the Ballinac
Islands, to 5 miles. The general depth of water is great, frequently over
200 fathoms. The tides are not strong, and between Nanaimo and Cape
Mudge there are few dangers in the way of ships navigating the strait.
The smaller channels on the continental shore are Malaspina Strait and
Sabine Channel, the former lying between the continent and Texhada Island,
the other separating Texhada from Lasqueti Island.
On the Vancouver shore is Ballinac Channel, lying westward of the
islands of the same name; also Lambert Channel and Baynes Sound, the
former between Hornby and Denman Islands, and the latter dividing both
from Vancouver Island; they will be separately described.
Tides. The meeting of the tides takes place between Cape Mudge and
Cape Lazo; that is to say, the flood entering by Fuca Strait meets that en-
tering by the North end of Vancouver Island, within 20 miles of the former
cape, generally much nearer, but varying according to the phases of the
moon and the state of the winds; and at the point of meeting a considerable
race occurs, which would be dangerous to boats; there is generally such a
race at the entrance of Discovery Passage. It is high water, full and change,
at Cape Mudge and Cape Lazo at about 5.30, and the range during ordinary
springs is from 12 to 14 feet. At the entrance of the passage during springs
the stream runs as much as from 4 to 6 knots an hour, the flood or easterly
stream being the strongest.
NANOOSE HARBOUR, at 8 miles westward of Nanaimo, will be known by
the remarkable hill called Nanoose or Notched Hill, which rises between 600
and 700 feet immediately over its North side, and shows as a double or
notch peak from the southward.
The shore westward of Nanaimo is free from danger, and at the distance
of half a mile 20 fathoms will be found. Off the North point of the harbour
lie a group of small wooded islands; the entrance is between Maude Island
(the southernmost of them) and Blunden Point, on the South shore of the
main, and is here nearly three-quarters of a mile in width. Entrance Rock,
2 feet above high water, and 12 mile within Blunden Point, extends off a
low maple flat on the South side almost into the middle of the harbour, and
contracts the width of the entrance here to a quarter of a mile; within this
the harbour opens out to nearly a mile in width, and terminates at the dis-
392
VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC.
tance of 13 mile in a shoal mud flat, which dries at low water more than
half a mile, and where abundance of oysters are found. The only danger on
the North shore, in entering, is the North Rock, which lies nearly 2 cables
from the shore, and has 5 feet on the outer part. It is a spacious and well-
sheltered anchorage from all winds.
Fresh water may be obtained from a cove at the head on the North
side, and there is a convenient nook with a steep shingle beach, where a
vessel might be laid for repairs, if necessary, on the same side, a mile from
the head.
It is high water, full and change, at 5 p.m., and springs range 15 feet.
The COAST, for 6 miles westward of Nanoose, is strewed with numerous
small islands and reefs, the latter generally marked by kelp. The outermost
of them, Winchelsea and Yeo Islands, extend between 1 and 2 miles from the
land, and beyond these there are no hidden dangers. The Grey Rock, bare,
12 feet above high water, and rather remarkable, lies 2 cables E.N.E. from
the East end of the Winchelsea group.
Rudder Reef, with a fathom on it, lies a quarter of a mile S.E. E. from
Grey Rock, and has very little kelp on it. This reef must be avoided by
vessels bound westward from Nanoose Harbour, and the S.E. end of the
Winchelsea Islands should be given a berth of at least half a mile.
Ballinac Islands, two in number, are larger than the groups just de-
scribed, and lie further off shore. They are about 250 ft. high; the northern-
most one has but two or three trees, and its summit terminates in a sharp
bare nipple; the southernmost is wooded. They have the appearance of one
island seen from all points. The islands are steep and bold on all sides, and
are conspicuous after passing westward of Nanaimo. Vessels bound through
the Strait of Georgia would do well to steer for them.
Ballinac Channel lies southward of the islands, between them and the
smaller group which extend off the coast westward of Nanoose. It is a safe,
clear passage, 1½ mile in width at its narrowest part, which is abreast Gerald
Island. The depth in mid-channel is 136 fathoms, and the shores of the
islands on both sides may be approached within a cable's length, if neces-
sary. The only danger in the channel in working through is Cottam Reef,
which has 2 fathoms on it, and is generally marked by kelp. It lies on the
southern sile. To steamers, coasters, or vessels with a fair wind, Ballinac
Channel is recommended.
North-west Bay is 5 miles westward of Nanoose. Mistaken Island, low,
wooded, and half a mile long, lies immediately off its northern entrance
point, and S.W. S. 2 miles from the North Ballinac Island. The bay
indents the coast for 2 miles in an E.S.E. direction, making the peninsula.
of the land which separates it from Nanoose Harbour. It is much exposed
to N.W. winds, and the water in it is very deep.
From North-west Bay the land trends, with a slight indentation, nearly
QUALICUM RIVER-BAYNES SOUND.
393
West for 19 miles to Denman and Hornby Islands, and to the southern
entrances of Baynes Sound and Lambert Channel. The land between Na-
noose and the Komox district, a distance of 24 miles, is undulating, and of a
moderate height, from the sea-coast to the base of the mountain ranges, a
distance of about 4 miles.
Qualicum River empties itself on this coast, 30 miles westward of Na-
naimo, and 5 miles eastward of the eastern entrance of Baynes Sound. It is
a small stream, only noticeable as affording shelter to canoes or boats within
its entrance, and as being the terminus of the trail between the head waters
of Barclay Sound and the eastern coast of the island, a distance of only 13
miles in a direct line. Qualicum Bay is a slight indentation of the coast,
immediately West of the river, where very fair anchorage will be found in
8 or 10 fathoms, three-quarters of a mile from the shore.
The mountain ranges westward of Nanaimo are of considerable height,
and very striking in their general features and varied outlines. Most con-
spicuous amongst them, and midway between Barclay Sound and the East
coast, rises Mount Arrowsmith to a height of 6,000 feet. Its remarkable
summit, terminating in three sharp, well-defined peaks, is rarely free from
snow.
Denman and Hornby Islands lie immediately off the coast, 34 miles west-
ward of Nanaimo; the former is 9 miles long in a W.N.W. direction, or
parallel with the coast, low and generally wooded, with an average width of
2 miles.
Hornby Island is much smaller. Over its western side rises rather ab-
ruptly a remarkable flat-top hill, Mount Geoffrey, 1,070 feet high; on its
eastern side it falls gradually, and terminates in a low, bare grassy point.
The eastern side is indented by Tribune Bay, affording good anchorage. On
both these islands there is a considerable quantity of good land, particularly
on the latter, also fresh water; and from the nature of the formation, it is
probable that coal seams will be found to exist.
Denman Island is separated from the main by a good passage called
Baynes Sound, and Hornby Island from Denman by Lambert Channel.
Yellow Island is small and bare, 80 feet high, and generally of a yellow
colour. It lies close off the S.E. point of Denman Island, is remarkable,
may be seen for several miles, and is a good object to steer for coming from
the eastward, as it forms the eastern entrance point of the sound. Maple
Point, which forms the western, is also very remarkable; it lies S.W. by W.
1½ mile from Yellow Island, and is low and covered with maples.
BAYNES SOUND, separating Denman Island from the main, is a long
narrow sheet of water, with an average navigable width something over
half a mile, and with a general depth of 20 to 26 fathoms, so that vessels
may, if necessary, drop an anchor in any part; there are, however, two
very fair anchorages, Fanny Bay on the South or main side, and Henry Bay
394
VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC.
on the North or island side. At the distance of 14 miles from the eastern
entrance of the sound is Port Augusta, into which flows the Courtenay River,
one of the largest streams in Vancouver Island, and in this immediate
neighbourhood is a large extent of good clear grass land.
The exit into the Strait of Georgia by the N.W. entrance of the sound,
between the North end of Denman Island and Cape Lazo, is nearly 2 miles
in width, but a remarkable bridge or bar of sand, strewed with large stones,
extends the whole way across, and at low water there is as little as 12 feet
on it (page 395). During summer it is thickly covered with kelp, which
never altogether disappears. The bar is very narrow, and is always smooth.
Towards high water vessels of 19 feet draught may safely pass either into or
out of the strait by this channel.
A sand-spit, which dries at low water, and is rather steep-to, extends one-
third of a mile from Maple Point.
Deep Bay.-Maple Point, from the extremity of the trees, turns sharp off
at a right angle to the W.S.W. for half a mile, and forms a low sandy spit,
in shape resembling the long beak of a bird; within this is Deep Bay, in
which the depth varies from 15 to 20 fathoms, irregular bottom, but sandy.
It is a small, and not very desirable anchorage.
Fanny Bay, on the southern side of the sound, 4 miles within Maple
Point, affords a good though somewhat limited anchorage. Base Flat, the
delta of a considerable stream, having its rise in the Beaufort range of
mountains, forms its western point; and Ship Point, a bold wooded bluff,
its eastern. Entering from the eastward, give Ship Point, and the coast of
the peninsula immediately eastward of it, a berth of a quarter of a mile,
and anchor in 12 or 13 fathoms in the middle of the bay.
Village Point, on Denman Island, with a large native settlement on it, is
remarkable; it is 2 miles N.W. of Fanny Bay, and a sand-spit extends a
short distance off it.
Henry Bay.-Denman Island, towards its N.W. end, falls away into a
remarkable wedge shape, terminating in a singular sharp beak-shaped ex-
treme, called Beak Point; the hollow of this beak, on the N.W. side of the
island, forms Henry Bay, which is nearly 6 miles from Fanny Bay, and is a
safe and convenient anchorage, though, like the latter, it is somewhat limited
in size.
From Beak Point a series of sand-banks, some of them above water,
others covered, extend in a N.N.W. direction for a little more than 2 miles.
Sandy Island, the largest of them, is two-thirds of a mile from the point, and
6 feet above high water, with large boulder stones dispersed over it; there
is a good boat passage through at half tide. North-west of Sandy Island,
and the same distance, is White Spit, which almost covers, and is very re-
markable from the number of clam shells collected on it, giving it an ap-
PORT AUGUSTA, ETC.
395
pearance of a white sandy beach; it is also connected with Sandy Island at
very low tides.
Kelp Bar. The end of the shoal, which occasionally dries in patches,
extends two-thirds of a mile N.W. of White Spit, and from it commences
the remarkable kelp bar or bridge before mentioned (page 394), which con-
nects Denman Island with the land about Cape Lazo, distant nearly 2 miles.
The bar is composed of sand, interspersed with large boulders, which can be
seen at low water. Great quantities of kelp grow on it during summer, and
it is rarely entirely without it. To cross the kelp bar over its narrowest
part and in the deepest water, a vessel should stand 24 miles through the
sound, north-westward of Henry Bay, until a rather remarkable white beach
(on the western shore, West 3 miles from Beak Point) is brought to bear
S. by W. W., then steer out boldly N. by E. † E.
Port Augusta, in the N.W. corner of Baynes Sound, although apparently
a large sheet of water, its upper part is a mud flat, which almost dries at
low tides, and is formed by the Courtenay River, which flows into it. From
White Bluff, before mentioned, a remarkable elbow-shaped tongue of land
named Goose Spit, projects to the southward and westward; it is grassy, with
one or two hillocks, and bare. Goose Spit forms the northern entrance
point of the port, and Grassy Point the southern; the latter is very low and
swampy, the delta of a considerable stream. Off it, at low water, sand
and boulders dry for 2 cables, and the water shoals suddenly from 10 to 1
fathoms at the distance of 3 cables, leaving a width of less than a mile
between the entrance points.
Within Goose Spit is an excellent place with a S.E. gale, though no sea to
speak of could get up in any part of Port Augusta.
Courtenay River is a deep and rapid mountain stream, but on account of
falls and other obstructions is only navigable for a few miles for boats and
canoes; it has its rise in Mount Washington, having a considerable extent
of rich grass country on either side.
Mount Washington is remarkable, and rises to 5,400 feet; it is the western-
most of a range 10 miles in length, terminating in Mount Becher to the East;
to the southward and westward of it are several high mountain ranges and
peaks from 4,000 to 7,000 feet above the sea, the highest summits being
covered with snow all the year round.
The Beaufort Range rise on the western side of Baynes Sound, 7 or 8 miles
from the coast, and stretch for 12 miles in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction,
varying in elevation from 4,500 to 5,400 feet; they are very remarkable,
presenting 7 or 8 distinct summits, which are rarely free from snow. This
range, together with Mount Washington, form the eastern boundary of the
great central valley and chain of lakes which run through the length of
Vancouver Island from the head of Barclay Sound.
Lambert Channel, between Denman and Hornby Islands, is a safe
396
VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC.
passage running 6 miles in a W.N.W. and N.W. direction. It is a mile
wide at its southern entrance, gradually increasing to the N.W. as it opens
into the Strait of Georgia. The general depth of water is from 25 to 30
fathoms, shoaling to 16 fathoms on either side within 2 cables of the shore.
Coming from the southward, Yellow Island marks the western entrance
point, while Mount Geoffrey, a remarkable flat-top hill, 1,070 feet high,
on Hornby Island, rises over the eastern side of the channel; either of these
may be steered for until approaching the entrance, when W.N.W. is a mid-
channel course through.
On the eastern side is Norris Rock, of considerable extent at low tide, but
at high tide, a mere patch 5 or 6 feet above water; it lies N.E. N. 14 mile
from Yellow Island.
The eastern side of Lambert Channel, between Norman Point and Shingle
Spit, a distance of 2 miles, has two groups of covering rocks, extending
nearly 2 cables off, and the shore should not be approached within a quarter
of a mile. Shingle Spit is a remarkable low point on the eastern side of the
channel, 2 miles within Norman Point.
Off the North end of Hornby Island stands a remarkable boulder rock, 7
or 8 feet high, with smaller ones near it, and vessels should not approach the
shore in this neighbourhood within a long half a mile, at which distance are
7 to 10 fathoms.
Tribune Bay, on the S.E. side of Horby Island, affords good anchorage
with all but easterly or south-easterly winds, to which it is quite open. It is
easy to enter or to leave, and conveniently situated as a stopping-place for
vessels bound either way, being 35 miles West of Nanaimo, and 40 eastward
of Cape Mudge and the entrance of Discovery Channel.
The eastern end of Hornby Island terminates in a rather remarkable point,
called St. John, grassy, and bare of trees. Off it, in a S.S.E. direction, are
2 or 3 small low islets. Some reefs which generally break extend nearly
half a mile outside the islets; these should be given a berth, and it is not
recommended to pass nearer than half a mile to the N.E. of the Coast of
Hornby Island.
The outermost of the dangers off the West point of Tribune Bay, is a 1-
fathom rocky patch, called the Nash Bank, which must be carefully avoided.
It is a quarter of a mile in extent, and lies N.E. by E. nearly a mile from
Point Downes, the western entrance point, and S.W. by S. from the largest
and outermost of the low islets off Point St. John. With a leading wind it is
recommended to pass the eastern side of the bay within a short half a mile,
and to steer up for the white sandy beach as soon as it is open, anchoring
with the eastern bluff of the bay bearing E. by N. & N., 3 or 4 cables from
the eastern shore, in 2 fathoms, sandy bottom. There is anchorage, if de-
sired, in 4 fathoms, much closer in.
CAPE LAZO will be seen after passing the eastern end of Hornby Island,
CAPE MUDGE.
397
from which it bears W.N.W., distant 15 miles. It is a remarkable salient
point about 250 feet high, flat and grassy on its summit, but wooded behind,
and falling abruptly to the sea in yellow clay cliffs. Although a bold-
looking headland, shoal water extends a considerable distance off, and
it is recommended not to approach its eastern and south-east sides nearer
than 2 miles, as only 4 fathoms, uneven bottom, is found at the distance of
1 mile.
Mittlenatch Island, at 16 miles N.W. of Cape Lazo, is half a mile in ex-
tent, 200 feet high, bare and peaked. Between it and the Vancouver Island
shore, distant nearly 6 miles, is the fair channel to Cape Mudge and Dis-
covery Channel.
Oyster Bay. From Cape Lazo the coast trends W.N.W., is moderately
high, and slightly indented with boulder beaches, which makes boat landing
attended with danger unless in very calm weather. At the distance of 15
miles is Kuhushan Point, the southern extreme of a large but not very deep
indentation, named Oyster Bay; Shelter Point, nearly 4 miles W.N.W. from
Kuhushan, is its northern extreme. There is fair anchorage in 10 or 12
fathoms in this bay for vessels waiting wind or tide. A reef extends half a
mile eastward of Shelter Point; 4 miles north-westward of Oyster Bay is
the entrance to Discovery Passage.
CAPE MUDGE is one of those peculiar headlands so frequently met with
on this coast, and resembles Point Roberts and Cape Lazo, except that the
yellow clay cliff which forms its face is more covered with vegetation. The
cape is between 200 and 300 feet high, flat, and wooded on its summit, fall-
ing to the westward as it enters Discovery Passage with a low boulder point.
The high land of Valdes Island appears behind it from the south-eastward.
A boulder beach extends in a semi-circular form from it to the eastward, and
at the distance of 2 miles in this direction the depth is not more than 5
fathoms. The western low part of Cape Mudge should not be brought west-
ward of W.N.W. in entering or leaving Discovery Passage.
DIRECTIONS.-The southern shore of the Strait of Georgia, with its
anchorages and smaller channels, having been now described, a few remarks
will be offered on the navigation of the main strait.
From the coast of Gabriola Island abreast Nanaimo, to the opposite
shore of the continent, about Burrard Inlet, the width of the strait is 14 miles,
the navigation free from danger, and the strength of the tide between 1 and
2 knots an hour. Coming from the southward, Mount Shepherd, on the
South end of Texhada Island, is a very remarkable object, and shows
as a high solitary peaked island standing in the middle of the strait; it is
2,900 feet in elevation, and is plainly seen in clear weather more than 30
miles off.
Proceeding westward, the long and comparatively low island of Lasqueti
rises above the horizon, its singular bare turret-shaped summit 1,000 feet
398
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
high presenting an unmistakeable feature. The Ballinac, and smaller islands
westward of them, will now soon be made out. When abreast the former,
the width of the channel contracts to 4 miles between them and the small
island of Sangster, off the S.E. end of Lasqueti; after which it opens out
again to 7 miles, and the rather remarkable flat-topped Mount Geoffrey on
the West end of Hornby Island will be plainly seen. The southern coast
of Lasqueti is bold, with no dangers off it which are not seen, except Seal
Rocks, which cover at half tide, and lie 1 mile West of Sangster Island;
off its West end are the small groups of Flat and Bare Islands, but no hidden
dangers. False Bay, which indents its West end, is exposed, and not re-
commended as an anchorage.
The Sisters Islets are the next remarkable objects; they are two small
black rocks 10 feet above high water, S.W. by S. from the West point of
Lasqueti, with a deep water channel over a mile wide between them and
Flat Islands. When abreast the Sisters, the main strait turns to the N.N.W.
between them and Hornby Island for 4 miles, and then resumes its original
trend to the W.N.W. The distance between the Sisters and Point St. John,
the low bare East point of Hornby Island, is 5 miles; the latter, with the
small islets off it, should be given a berth of nearly a mile The Sisters are
bold on all sides, but should not be approached too close in calm or light
winds, as the tide sets straight past them. Having passed Point St. John,
the distance to the entrance of the Discovery Passage is 38 miles. The strait
mountains a uniform width of 9 miles, until near Mittlenatch Island, or for
30 miles, the only stopping places being Oyster Bay, already described, 4
miles from Cape Mudge, and Gillies Bay, on the West side of Texhada Island.
The shore of Texhada Island is bold.
1
NORTHERN SHORE OF THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA.
HOWE SOUND was thus named by Vancouver after Admiral Earl Howe,
and was called Brazo de Carmelo by Galiano and Valdes. It is immediately
adjoining Burrard Inlet (page 384) on the North, and is an extensive though
probably useless sheet of water, the general depth being very great, while
there are but few anchorages. It is almost entirely hemmed in by rugged
and precipitous mountains rising abruptly from the water's edge to eleva-
tions of from 4,000 to 6,000 feet. There is no available land for the settler,
and although a river of considerable size, the Squawmisht, navigable for
boats, falls into its head, it leads by no useful or even practicable route into
the interior of the country.
THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA.
399
The entrance is between Atkinson Point, the North point of Burrard
Inlet, and Gower Point, nearly 12 miles apart. The sound penetrates the
continent in a northerly direction for 20 miles, and although of such con-
siderable width for nearly 12 miles of its length, yet it is choked by some
large and numerous smaller islands, between which are several ship passages.
Bowen Island, the largest and easternmost, is remarkable, its highest summit
rising to nearly 2,500 feet, being round, smooth, and partially bare, unmis-
takeably pointing out the entrance from any direction; the island is 7 miles.
in length in a northerly direction, and more than 3 in width.
Queen Charlotte Channel, the easternmost passage into Howe Sound, is
between Bowen Island and Atkinson Point; Passage Island, half a mile long
only, but very prominent from the southward, stands in the centre of the
channel, and on either side of it is a deep water passage. A tide ripple is
frequently met with off Atkinson Point, caused by the meeting of the ebb
streams from the sound and Burrard Inlet.
Snug Cove.-Northward of Passage Island 12 mile, and on the eastern
shore, is White Cliff Point, and opposite, on the Bowen Island shore, dis-
tant 1 mile, is a double-headed cove. Snug Cove, the southernmost of
these, though narrow, affords excellent anchorage to small craft in 9 fathoms,
sheltered from all winds; Deep Cove, the northernmost, is larger, but
with a S.E. wind, when anchorage would be most required, a swell would
set in.
Vessels bound to Port Graves, which is the principal anchorage in the
sound, should pass westward of Bowyer Island between it and Hood Point,
the North point of Bowen Island. The latter is a rather remarkable low
flat peninsula point, with a small high cliffy island lying off it.
Bound up the sound by Queen Charlotte Channel, a N.N.W. course leads
mid-channel; pass eastward of White Rock, Centre Island, and Anvil Island,
through Montague Channel. White Rock is a small but remarkable islet, 30
feet high. Anvil Island is oval-shaped, and 3 miles long, and its summit,
Leading Peak, 2,746 feet high and very remarkable, resembles the horn of
an anvil pointed upwards. From almost all parts of the strait of Georgia,
this peak appears as a most prominent object; it is an excellent leading mark
to clear the shoals off the Fraser River by being kept just open westward of
Passage Island, on a N. by W. W. bearing.
3
4
Montague Channel, 5 miles above Bowyer Island, and between Anvil Island
and the eastern shore, is a mile wide, and over 100 fathoms in depth, trend-
ing first to N. by W. for 7 miles, when it runs to the eastward for a further
distance of 4 miles, terminating in a low delta, through which flows the
Squawmisht River. The sound carries its depth to the head and shoals from
100 fathoms suddenly to 2 fathoms.
Collingwood Channel, to the westward of Bowen Island, between it and
the group of smaller islands which stud the centre of the sound, is the most
400
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
direct route to Port Graves. In entering both shores are steep and bold;
the direction of the channel for 4 miles is North, its width about a mile, and
the general depth varies from 50 to 100 fathoms. The small islands forming
the western side have no dangers but what are visible, except Passage Rock,
which lies almost midway between Worlcombe and Pasley Islands, and
covers at half tide.
Barfleur Passage lies to the westward of the central group of small
islands, between them and Keats Island. It is a safe ship channel, but not
quite so wide as the one last described. A rock, which breaks at low water,
extends 1 cable into the channel westward from the second of the islands
in the entrance. The passages between the small islands are not recom-
mended to be used unless by coasting vessels.
Shoal Channel, the westernmost entrance to Howe Sound, is between
Keats Island and the mainland of Gower Point. It is convenient for vessels
coming from the westward, and leads to Plumper Cove, a snug anchorage
on the N.W. side of Keats Island.
The South point of Keats Island, which forms the eastern point of en-
trance to the channel, has a small but prominent and thickly wooded island
lying close off it, Home Island. From a little within this island a bar of
sand and shingle extends quite across the channel to the steep cliffs of the
mainland; the greatest depth over it, at low water is 15 feet, and that in
the centre of the passage, which is here half a mile in width. The width
of the bar in the centre is not over a quarter of a mile.
Plumper Cove.-Immediately after crossing the bar of Shoal Channel, the
water deepens to 20 fathoms, and two small islets, partially wooded, and
almost joined at low water, will be seen N.N.E. a mile off; between them
and the shore of Keats Island is Plumper Cove, which is perfectly secure
with all winds, and however hard it may be blowing outside, it is generally
a calm here.
Thornborough Channel is a continuation of the one just described, and
leads up the western side of the sound, between Gambier Island and the
main. Its direction after passing Plumper Cove is N.N.W., and at the
distance of 6 miles is Woolridge Island, rather on the eastern shore; the
wider channel lies westward of this island, but there is over 100 fathoms of
water through Latona Passage to the eastward of it. Passing Woolridge
Island, the arm turns to the north-eastward, and northward of Anvil Island
leads to the head of the sound.
Gambier Island, lying in the centre of the sound, immediately northward
of Bowen Island, is almost square shaped, and 6 miles in extent either way.
On its western side rise two very remarkable cone-shaped mountains, over
3,000 feet in elevation; the southern face of the island is indented by three
very deep bays or inlets, in the easternmost of which only is convenient an-
chorage found. Port Graves, the easternmost of the three bays on the South
TEXHADA ISLAND-SABINE CHANNEL.
401
side of Gambier Island, is the principal anchorage in Howe Sound. It is
about 8 miles from the entrance, and may be reached with great facility by
either of the channels already described; its entrance will not, however, be
very apparent to a stranger, until closing Hope point, which forms its eastern
side.
The Coast from Gower point, the western entrance of Howe Sound, trends
W. S. for 18 miles to the entrance of Malaspina Strait, and is free from
danger. White Islet, a bare rock, 50 feet high, lies 1 mile from the shore,
6 miles westward of Gower point, and is remarkable, always showing very
white; there is deep water close to it and inside it. At 4 miles N.W of this
islet the coast recedes and forms Trail Bay. There is a very marked drop in
the land at the head of this bay, across which, by a portage of 1,100 yards,
the natives carry their canoes into Seechelt Arm, one of the many arms of
Jervis Inlet. The Trail Islets, four in number, lie something more than
half a mile off the western end of this bay..
Thormanby Islands, two in number, almost joined, and upwards of 2 miles
in extent, are 18 miles from Gower point, and form the S.E. entrance point
of Malaspina Strait.
TEXHADA or Favida Island, lying parallel with and on the eastern
side of the Strait of Georgia, is 27 miles in length, with an average width of
scarcely 4 miles. Throughout its whole length stretches a ridge of rugged
trap mountains, wooded generally to their summits. At the southern end,
Mount Shepherd reaches a height of 2,900 feet. Towards the northern end,
the
range decreases in elevation, but there is scarcely an acre of cultivable
land throughout the island. Its shores are steep and bold on all sides, and
the land rises abruptly, except at the North extreme.
The only anchorage, and that merely a stopping place, is Gilles bay, on
the S.W. side (page 398).
LASQUETI ISLAND lies parallel with Texhada, at its S.E. end, and is
separated from it by a channel about a mile in width. Its length is 9 miles,
its average width something more than 2 miles, and it is remarkable from a
singular turret-shaped summit 1,000 feet high, called Mount Tremeton, rising
nearly in its centre. On its southern side are several boat coves, and in
Tucker Bay, on the northern, there is very fair anchorage, with some good
land in the neighbourhood. Sangster Island, half a mile long, lies S.S.W.
a mile from Young point, the eastern extreme of Lasqueti.
Jenkins Island lies 3 miles westward of Sangster, and close to the South
shore of Lasqueti. The Sea Egg Rocks, always uncovered, lie 3 cables off
its West end.
STEVENS PASSAGE, between the Sisters Islets and Lasqueti, is upwards
of a mile wide, and perfectly safe and clear. Flat Islands, on its eastern
side, should be given a berth of a quarter of a mile.
SABINE CHANNEL, between Texhada and Lasqueti Islands, is a good
North Pacific.
2 D
402
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
ship passage 9 miles long, in nearly an East and West direction, with very
deep water; its breadth at the western end is 3 miles, but several high coni-
cal islands lying off the N.E. side of Lasqueti contract the width at the
eastern end, in some parts to three-quarters of a mile. There is also a
narrow but deep channel, Bull Passage, to the southward of these islands, by
keeping close along the Lasqueti shore. Tucker Bay, on the North side of
Lasqueti, and equidistant from either end, is a very fair anchorage.
MALASPINA STRAIT is a wide navigable channel, separating Texhada
Island from the mainland. Its general direction is W.N.W. for 30 miles,
when it again enters the Strait of Georgia* between Marshall Point, the
N.W. extreme of Texhada and Harwood Island; its southern entrance lies
between Upwood Point, the S.E. extreme of Texhada, and the western of
the Thormanby Islands, and is 4 miles in width.
Upwood Point is rugged and precipitous; stunted pines grow between the
crevices of the bare trap rock, the land behind more thickly wooded. Almost
immediately over it rises Mount Dick, a very remarkable hump-shaped hill,
1,100 feet high, and 3 miles within is Mount Shepherd, the highest summit
of the island. A covering rock lies 2 cables off the point.
Thormanby Islands, before mentioned, lying close to the mainland, and
appearing as part of it, terminate at their N.W. point in a steep clay cliff,
off which, at low water, dries a boulder point. The Texhada shore is bold,
and almost straight for its whole length, fronted by narrow shingle or boulder
beaches.
JERVIS INLET† is one of the most considerable of those numerous and
remarkable arms of the sea which indent the continent of America from the
parallel of Fuca Strait as far as lat. 60° N. It extends by winding reaches
in a northerly direction for more than 40 miles, while its width rarely exceeds
1½ mile, and in most places is even less.
Neither in a commercial point of view, as a refuge for shipping, or as a
means of communication with the interior of the country, does it appear
likely ever to occupy any very prominent place, as it is hemmed in on all
4
* It was in this part that Vancouver met, to his great surprise and mortification, with
the two Spanish surveying vessels which had preceded him. These were the brig Sutil,
under Don D. Galiano, and the schooner Mexicana, under Don C. Valdes, detached from the
commission under Malaspina, from whom, however, he met with the most polite and
friendly attention.
† Jervis Canal, or Inlet, named by Vancouver after Admiral Sir John Jervis, is the
Brazo de Mazarredo of Galiano and Valdes. Commander R. C. Mayne, R.N., attached to
the survey under Captain G. H. Richards, made his way through the dense forest and
thickets between the head of Jervis Inlet and Port Pemberton, on the Fraser River, in
July, 1860, the details of which arduous journey are given in his interesting work, Chapter
IX. It was thought that this might be a good route from the coast to the upper part of the
Fraser, but this journey dispelled such a notion.
JERVIS INLET.
403
sides by mountains of the most rugged and stupendous character, rising from
its almost perpendicular shores to five, six, and sometimes eight thousand
feet. The hardy pine, which flourishes where no other tree can find soil to
sustain life, holds but a feeble and uncertain tenure here; and it is not un-
common to see whole mountain sides denuded by the blasts of winter, or the
still more certain destruction of the avalanche which accompanies the thaw
of summer. Strikingly grand and magnificent, there is a solemnity in the
silence and utter desolation which prevail here during the months of winter,
not a native, nor a living creature to disturb the solitude, and though in
summer a few miserable Indians may occasionally be met with, and the re-
verberating echo of a hundred cataracts disturb the silence, yet the desolation
remains, and seems inseparable from a scene which nature never intended as
the abode of man. The depths below almost rival the height of the moun-
tain summits; bottom is rarely reached under 200 fathoms, even close to the
shore, and frequently at much greater depths; there are a few spots where
vessels may drop an anchor, but they are either open and exposed, with an
inconvenient depth of water, or from the narrowness of their entrance are
only adapted to steamers or coasting vessels.
•
In the Vancouver Island Pilot, the various channels and shores are de-
scribed at length, but as there appears to be but little to interest general
commerce in this remarkable fiord, we shall make but brief extracts
therefrom.
The entrance of the inlet is between Francis Point and Scotch Fir Point,
which are 12 miles apart in a W.N.W. direction. Nelson Island lies imme-
diately in the centre, and divides it into two channels, the westernmost being
the principal one.
Agamemnon Channel, the eastern entrance to the inlet, is 9 miles N. by
W. from Point Upwood. After running between Nelson Island and the
main in a general northerly direction for 9 miles, it joins the main channel
of the inlet. Its average width is little more than half a mile, the tides run
from 1 to 3 knots, the depth of water varies from 50 to 100 fathoms, and it
affords no anchorage. There are three passages into Agamemnon Channel.
The middle, between Channel Islets and Pearson Island, and the easternmost
between the latter and Martin Island. The passages are about the same
width, something over a quarter of a mile, and have deep water. Vessels
entering by the western passage, or coming from the westward along the
shore of Nelson Island, must avoid the Nile Rock, which covers at quarter
flood, at a mile S. W. by W. W. from Fearney Point, the S.E. point of
Nelson Island, and the same distance West from the largest Channel islet.
Pender Harbour is the only anchorage deserving the name, with a mo-
derate depth of water, to be found in the neighbourhood of Jervis Inlet,
and its entrance is so encumbered by islands as to render it difficult of
access to anything but steam or coasting vessels; it immediately adjoins
2 D 2
404
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
the Agamemnon Channel on the South, and lies E.N.E. three-quarters of
a mile from Pearson Island, indenting the coast for 3 miles in the same
direction.
The Western Entrance of Jervis Inlet is between Alexander Point, the
South extreme of Hardy Island, on the East, and Scotch Fir Point on the
West. The points are not remarkable, but the opening is readily made out.
It is nearly 2 miles in width, and takes for a short distance a N.N.W.
direction. Scotch Fir Point is rocky, and has two small islets lying close to
the westward of it, which, like the point itself, are covered with stunted
pines. Thunder Bay, formed on the western side, 1 mile above Scotch Fir
Point, is one of the few spots in Jervis Inlet where a vessel may drop an
anchor, and, being near the entrance, is likely to prove convenient.
Nelson Island, in the middle of the entrance to Jervis Inlet, is 10 miles
long in a northerly direction, and about 4 or 5 miles wide. The island is
mountainous, the summits ranging from 500 to 1,000 feet in height. Cape
Cockburn, its S. W. point, is of white granite, about 80 or 90 feet high. A
rock lies 1 cable South of it.
Prince of Wales Reach.-Dark Cove, which affords a snug anchorage on
the West side of Jervis Inlet, within the Sydney Islets, is 2 miles North of
Captain Island, and 12 miles from the entrance. Vancouver Bay, on the
East side of the inlet, 19 miles from the entrance, is about half a mile in
extent, and of square shape.
Princess Royal Reach.-Deserted Bay, also on the East side of the inlet,
at the termination of Princess Royal Reach, and about 37 miles from the
entrance, is small, and affords an indifferent anchorage in its eastern part.
A valley extends from the head of the bay to the N.E., through which a
trail runs to the Lilooet Lakes on the Fraser River, and is much frequented
by the natives in the summer season.
Queen's Reach.-The head of Jervis Inlet terminates in a patch of low
swampy land, through which flow some small streams; it does not afford
any anchorage, there being 25 fathoms within half a cable of the outer edge
of the bank. A remarkable peak, Mount Victoria, rises 2 miles North of the
water's edge to a height of 7,452 feet, and is a very conspicuous object on
approaching the head of the inlet. Princess Louisa Inlet, on the East side of
Jervis Inlet, 5 miles below the head, is narrow, and about 4 miles long in
an E.N.E. direction.
Seechelt Arm, the entrance to which is on the East side of Jervis Inlet,
1 mile North of Agamemnon Channel, is an extensive arm of the sea, pene-
trating the land for 17 miles in a south-easterly direction towards the Strait
of Georgia, and only separated from the latter by a low neck of land 1,100
yards wide, forming an extensive mountainous peninsula to the westward,
called Seechelt Peninsula.
Tides. It is high water, at full and change, in Jervis Inlet at 6 hours,
HARWOOD AND RAGGED ISLANDS.
405
the rise and fall being about 14 feet; within the Seechelt arm the rise and
fall seldom exceeds 6 or 7 feet.
Harwood Island, off the West entrance to Malaspina Strait, 1 mile from
the continental shore, and about 3 miles N. W. of Point Marshall, is 21
miles long in a northerly direction, and 1 mile wide, from 150 to 200 feet
high, flat, and thickly wooded. There is deep water between the island and
the shore.
The COAST.-Westward of Jervis Inlet, the North shore of Malaspina
Strait runs in a westerly direction for 11 miles, terminating at Grief Point.
For a considerable distance inland it is low, and bordered by a sandy beach.
There are no off-lying dangers that are not seen.
From Grief Point the North or continental shore of the Strait of Georgia
runs in a W.N.W. direction for nearly 20 miles almost straight to Sarah
Point, the S.E. entrance point of Desolation Sound.
Savary Island, nearly 6 miles W.N.W. of Harwood Island and 1 mile
from the continental shore, is 4 miles long in a W.S.W. direction, but nar-
row. A sandy beach, strewed with huge boulders, surrounds it, and extends
a considerable distance off its North and West sides, which should not be
approached nearer than half a mile. The height of the island varies from
80 to 120 feet, and the South side is faced by some remarkable white sandy
cliffs, very conspicuous from the S.E. Its East extreme is a granite cliff,
steep-to. A sandy bar or ledge, of 1 to 2 fathoms water, extends from its
West point to Hernando Island. Hurtado Point, on the main abreast Savary
Island, is about 250 feet high, bold and cliffy.
Mystery Rock, apparently a short distance to the eastward of Savary Island,
is of small extent, and uncovers at low water. Uncertainty exists as to its
exact position, but during the survey the rock was twice seen by Mr.
Bedwell in 1862 from the South point of Harwood Island, though not
from anywhere else. Vessels, therefore, in navigating this locality should
observe great caution when going between Savary and Harwood Islands,
but by keeping within half a mile of the continental shore this danger will
be avoided.
Ragged Islands, close to the continental shore, and running parallel to
it, are a rocky group of small islands 2 miles long; their S.E. part is about
21 miles N.W. of Hurtado Point, and some rocks extend 4 cables from their
N.W. extreme. White Islet, a mile to the S.W. of them, is a very re-
markable bare white granite rock, about 70 feet high. A rock, which un-
covers at low water, lies 1 cable East of it.
Sarah Point, at 20 miles W.N.W. of Malaspina Strait, may be called the
N.W. entrance point of the Strait of Georgia. It is a rounding rocky point,
sloping gradually to the sea from a height of about 700 feet, at a short dis-
tance within it. The coast here turns sharply round to the eastward into
Malaspina Inlet.
,
406
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
Hernando Island, 2 miles West of Savary, and 3 miles N.N.E. of Mittle-
natch Island (page 397), is about 2 miles in extent, flat, thickly wooded, and
from 120 to 170 feet high. A ledge, composed of sand and huge boulders,
extends two-thirds of a mile from its S.E. point. Stag Bay, on the North
side of Hernando, affords anchorage, and is useful as a stopping-place for
vessels bound to Bute Inlet or Desolation Sound.
Baker Passage, to the northward of Hernando Island, and leading from
the Strait of Georgia to the entrance of Desolation Sound, is about 3 miles
long in a north-easterly direction, and 1 mile wide in the narrowest part,
being bounded on the North side by Cortes and Twins Islands. The only
danger is at its N.W. entrance point, off which a boulder ledge extends
upwards of 3 cables in a south-easterly direction. The Centre Rock, which
covers at a quarter flood, is in the middle of the passage between the Twins
Islands and Cortes.
Blind Creek, on the East side of Cortes Island, 1 mile North of Twins
Island, is a basin of about 4 cables in extent, but useless as an anchorage.
LEWIS CHANNEL, off the entrances to Desolation Sound, between
Cortes and Redonda Islands, to the westward of the latter, runs nearly
straight upwards of 12 miles in a north-westerly direction, and varies in
breadth from 1 mile to 3 cables, widest at the S.E. part; its shores are
generally rocky, low in the South part, but rising gradually to the N.W.,
steep-to, and everywhere free from danger; no directions are necessary for
navigating it.
Squirrel Cove, on the West side of Lewis Channel, 4 miles from Turn
Point, the S.W. entrance point, is a small land-locked basin of 6 to 7 fathoms
water, with room for a vessel of considerable size to lie at single anchor. It
is entered by a narrow passage about 130 feet wide. Squirrel Cove can only
be entered by steamers or sailing vessels with a fair wind, and the chart is
the best guide. There are no dangers whatever within or near it.
Northward of Squirrel Cove the West side of Lewis Channel becomes
more rocky, and gradually increases in height; it takes a northerly direction
for a mile to Junction Point, and then trends to the N.W. for 7 miles, the
channel ending at Bullock Bluff, the North extreme of Cortes Island.
Kinghorn Island, in the South entrance to Desolation Sound, and forming
the S.E. point of entrance to Lewis Channel, is about 2 miles in circum-
ference, and from 400 to 500 feet high; it is cliffy, and steep-to on the S.W.
or channel side.
SUTIL CHANNEL. This extensive channel, which leads from the
western part of the Strait of Georgia to the entrances of Toba and Bute
Inlets, is bounded on the East side by Cortes, and on the West by Valdes
and Read Islands. Its length in a northerly direction is 15 miles; and the
breadth at its entrance to the Strait of Georgia 6 miles, decreasing to one
mile in the northern part. The soundings in mid-channel are deep, though
CORTES ISLAND.
407
there are several dangers off both shores near the southern parts, but north-
ward of Mary Island it is quite clear.
There are several good anchorages on either side, two of which, Drew
Harbour and Carrington Bay, are easy of access to all vessels, and useful as
stopping-places.
The tides in the Sutil Channel are weak, seldom exceeding 2 knots. The
flood stream runs to the northward from the Strait of Georgia. It is high
water, at full and change, at 6 hours, and the rise and fall is 12 feet.
CORTES ISLAND.-The West side of this island, which forms the eastern
boundary of Sutil Channel, is generally low, and indented by several bays
and creeks, in many of which good anchorage may be found. Off Reef Point,
its South extreme, a ledge, composed of sand and boulders, extends three-
quarters of a mile, and covers at three-quarters flood.
Gorge Harbour, the entrance to which is on the West side of Cortes
Island, 4 miles N.N.W. from Reef Point, is 2 miles long in a westerly
direction, and 1 mile broad at the widest part, affording good anchorage in
9 to 12 fathoms. The entrance to it is through a narrow gorge nearly half
a mile long, bounded on either side by steep cliffs about 200 feet high, and
less than 40 yards wide in some places, with 6 fathoms in the shoalest part.
The tide runs through it from 3 to 4 knots. The best and most convenient
anchorage is in the West part, about half a mile from the entrance.
In entering Gorge Harbour, which can only be done with a favourable
tide, unless in a steamer, after passing Guide Islets, steer boldly up the
gorge or entrance, and take care, on nearing its North part, to pass between
Tide Islet and the West shore, the passage East of the islet being shoal,
when haul to the N.W., pass on either side of the Bee Islets, and anchor
in from 10 to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom, 1 or 2 cables to the westward
of them.
Mary Island, on the East side of Sutil Channel, about 3 miles N.W. by
W. W. from Reef Point, is of a round shape, about 6 miles in circum-
ference, and from 70 to 150 feet high; extending upwards of a mile in a
S.S.E. direction off its South point is a ledge about 2 cables wide, called the
Boulder Reef, which covers at high water. Camp Island, off the West ex-
treme of Cortes Island, and 7 miles from Reef Point, is of small extent, and
wooded; between it and Cortes Island is Plunger Pass, about 3 cables wide,
deep, and clear of danger.
Carrington Bay, on the N.W. side of Cortes, about 3 miles from Centre
Islet, is a mile deep in an easterly direction, about 3 cables wide, and affords
anchorage at a distance of 3 cables from its head. Von Donop Creek, the
entrance of which is 5 miles from Centre Islet, is long and narrow, pene-
trating Cortes Island in a south-easterly direction for upwards of 3 miles
There is good anchorage in 5 to 6 fathoms near its head, but the entrance.
408
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
being only 30 yards wide in some places, a vessel should not use it as a
stopping-place.
VALDES ISLAND.-Cape Mudge, the South extreme of Valdes Island,
and the S.W. entrance point of Sutil Channel, has been described in p. 397.
A bank extends in a south-easterly direction for some distance from the
cape, and until well inside the channel the cape ought not to be approached
within 2 miles. The coast of Valdes turns sharply round the cape to the
N.N.W., running in a straight direction for 3 miles.
Drew Harbour, on the East side of Valdes, 6 miles from Cape Mudge, is
about 1 mile deep, 3 to 4 cables wide, and rendered perfectly secure, and
locked by a narrow strip of land called Rebecca Spit, which forms its eastern
boundary. The anchorage, in 9 to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom, at a distance
of half a mile from its head, is the best in Sutil Channel; its shores are low,
and bordered by a sandy beach.
Hyacinthe Bay, on Valdes Island, and 1 mile N.W. of Drew Harbour, is
of small extent, with from 16 to 20 fathoms water, but affords no anchorage.
Open Bay is half a mile North of Hyacinthe Bay, and separated from it by
a rocky point. A vessel should not anchor there.
Hoskyn Inlet, formed between Read and Valdes Islands, on the East side
of the latter, is 7 miles long in a northerly direction, with an average
breadth of two-thirds of a mile. The shores are broken and rocky, with
some small islands off the South entrance and along the East side, and there
is no anchorage within it, except for small craft.
READ ISLAND, bordering the West side of the N.W. part of Sutil
Channel, is 9 miles long in a northerly direction, and from 1 to 3 miles
broad. Its southern part is low, but rises gradually to the northward to
1,600 feet in some places. Viner Point, its South extreme, is bare, and
about 40 feet above high water; it lies 7 miles North of Cape Mudge.
Burdwood Bay, on the East side of Read Island, 2 miles from Viner Point,
is about a mile wide, 2 to 3 cables deep, and contains several small islets.
There are 12 fathoms at a short distance off shore, in its North and South
parts, where a vessel may stop in fine weather, but the bay is open to the
South and East.
Evans Bay, the next inlet on the East side of Read Island, to the north-
ward of Burdwood Bay, is about 3 miles long in a northerly direction, 1
mile wide at the entrance, and branches off in two narrow arms near its
head. Its shores are rocky and much broken, and there is no anchorage
except in Bird Cove, on the West shore, where small craft may find shelter.
Frederick Point, the N.E. point of entrance to the bay, is bold, and may be
approached to 1 cable.
Hill Island, just outside the entrance of Evans Bay, is of small extent, but
conspicuous from its centre, 490 feet high. The shores are rocky, and may
be approached to a quarter of a mile.
CALM CHANNEL-BUTE INLET.
409
Penn Islands, near the middle of the Sutil Channel, to the northward of
Evans Bay, cover an extent about 1 mile long and 1 mile wide. They are
rocky, covered with stunted trees, and their greatest elevation is about 270
feet. A vessel should not venture among them, but there is a clear passage
on their East and West sides.
Directions. Entering the Sutil Channel from the Strait of Georgia, pass
within half a mile on either side of Mittlenatch Island, and steer N.W. by
W. or N.W. W. for the entrance, taking care to keep the North side of
Texhada Island open westward of Hernando and Savary Islands E. by S.,
until Camp Island opens West of Mary Island N.N.W., to clear the reefs
extending off the South points of Cortes and Mary Islands (p. 407); when
clear of the latter danger haul more to the northward, steering about N.N.W.
or N.W. by N., and passing about a quarter of a mile westward of Centre
Islet, steer up mid-channel, going, as most convenient, on either side of the
Penn Islands.
A vessel may beat through this channel, but till past the dangers in the
South part it would not be prudent to near the West sides of Cortes and
Mary Islands within 1 mile in standing to the eastward; and in standing
towards Cape Mudge do not approach it within 2 miles, or bring Mittle-
natch to the eastward of E. by S. S., until the cape bears S.W., when a
vessel may stand to half a mile of the Valdes shore. If intending to an-
chor, Drew Harbour and Carrington Bay are easy of access for any class of
vessel, and but little out of the regular track.
Calm Channel, to the North of Lewis and Sutil Channels, leading from
them to Bute Inlet, is 9 miles long in a N.W. by W. direction, and about 1
mile broad; its shores rise abruptly to a great height, are everywhere clear
of danger, and the tides weak, except in the N.W. part. This channel is
not well adapted for any vessels except steamers, as there is generally but
little wind, and no anchorage. No directions are necessary for navi-
gating it.
Stuart Island, at the northern termination of Calm Channel, and in the
entrance of Bute Inlet, is about 4 miles in extent, of an undulating surface,
rising in some parts to 800 and 1,000 feet. Its shores are rocky and clear of
danger.
BUTE INLET.-This extensive arm of the sea, which penetrates the con-
tinent for nearly 40 miles in a winding course to the northward, presents
many similar features to Jervis Inlet, the general breadth varying from 1 to
2 miles, and the shores on either side rising abruptly, and almost precipi-
tously, in many places to stupendous mountains from 5,000 to 8,000 feet
high, whose summits are generally covered with snow all the year round.
At the head are two extensive valleys, one penetrating to the N.W. and the
other to the S.E., from which flow streams, the one to the westward, called
by the natives Homalko River, is navigable for a long distance by boats and
410
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
stern-wheel steamers of light draught. Of these rivers some sand-banks
extend a short distance, affording indifferent anchorage near their outer
edges; but the soundings everywhere else in the inlet are very deep. The
water for some distance from the head is nearly fresh, and of a milky white
appearance. In the summer months there is a constant outset, varying in
strength from 1 to 2 knots.
A direct route from the coast to the Cariboo country, by the way of Bute
Inlet, was partially carried into effect in 1864, and a small wharf was erected
at the mouth of the Homalko River. These solitary posts are very dan-
gerous residences, and some frightful tragedies have occurred at them. The
wholesale massacre of the white occupants has been more than once per-
petrated by the bloodthirsty Indians.
Bute Inlet has more recently been proposed by A. Waddington, Esq.,* as
a terminus of a railway and steam-boat route between the Atlantic and
Pacific Oceans. F. Whymper, Esq., gives an interesting account of a visit to
a great glacier at its head.
Arran Rapids, at the entrance of the inlet on the West side, between
Stuart Island and the continent, are 2 cables wide in the narrowest part.
The tides rush through with great strength, the flood from the westward;
and it would be very hazardous for a vessel to go through them except at
slack water.
Orford Bay, on the East side of the inlet, 19 miles from the entrance, is of
small extent. A small vessel may use it as a stopping-place.
Waddington Harbour, at the head of the inlet, being in fact its termina-
tion, is about 2 miles in extent, and affords an indifferent anchorage off the
edge of the banks, extending from the Homalko and Southgate Rivers, and
off its East shore. Except in the vicinity of the rivers, the land rises almost
precipitously to 4,000 and 5,000 feet, is most sterile and rocky, covered with
stunted pines.
Homalko or Homathko River enters Waddington Harbour on the West
side, and is a stream of considerable extent, winding to the N.W. through
a large valley. At the entrance is a bar with only 1 to 2 feet over it at low
tide, but within the water deepens to 1 and 3 fathoms. Homalko River
and Waddington Harbour are likely to become places of some importance,
* Mr. Waddington spent five years in procuring information respecting his proposed
inter-oceanic route. His plan is to form a railroad from the head of Bute Inlet, through
the Cascade Range to the junction of the Quesnelle River with the Fraser River, a distance
of 222 miles. This country was quite unknown till thus explored by Mr. Waddington.
From this point on the Fraser there is a direct route to the Cariboo country, and the
Fraser is navigable, upwards, for steam-boats for 280 miles up to the Leather or Yellow
Head Pass through the Rocky Mountains, from thence the route towards Canada by the
Saskatchawan River, has been well surveyed. The details of this plan are given in the
Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, 1868, vol. xxxviii. pp. 118–128.
DISCOVERY PASSAGE.
411
as, from the sources of the former, an easy route has been discovered to the
gold-mining regions in the far North of British Columbia.
In navigating Bute Inlet but few directions are required, as the points
may be everywhere approached to half a cable, and, if intending to anchor
in Waddington Harbour, when nearing it steer for its North port, anchoring
about three-quarters of a mile off the head in 15 fathoms, and about 3 cables
from the high northern shore. The anchor should be dropped immediately
15 fathoms are obtained, as the bottom shoals rapidly.
Tides. It is high water, full and change, in Calm Channel at 7 hours,
and the rise and fall is 14 feet. In Bute Inlet it is high water at 6 hours,
and the rise and fall varies from 12 to 14 feet.
DISCOVERY PASSAGE, formed between the West side of Valdes Island
and the Vancouver shore, is the only known navigable outlet from the
North part of the Strait of Georgia to the N.W. Its length in a N.W. and
S.E. direction from Cape Mudge to Chatham Point is 23 miles, and its
average breadth a little more than 1 mile; but at Seymour Narrows it
contracts to less than half a mile. Its shores, southward of the Narrows,
are moderately high and apparently fertile, but northward of them steep,
rugged, and mountainous.
Tides.—Southward of Seymour Narrows the stream runs with great
strength, from 4 to 6 knots at springs, and turn at high and low water by
the shore. At the southern entrance, near Cape Mudge and between it
and Willow Point, heavy races or tide rips rage during the flood, which
would be dangerous to small vessels in blowing weather. It is high water,
full and change, at 5h 30m, and the rise and fall is about 11 feet.
Northward of Seymour Narrows the streams are comparatively slack;
they run from 1 to 2 hours after high and low water. At the Narrows
it is high water, full and change, at 4 hours, and the rise and fall is about
13 feet.
In Discovery Passage, when to the southward of Seymour Narrows, the
soundings in mid-channel vary from 30 to 60 fathoms, except at 1 mile
N.W. by W. from Cape Mudge, where a shoal patch of 8 fathoms exists. In
Seymour Narrows the least water in mid-channel is 35 fathoms, but north-
ward of them the depth increases to 100 and 140 fathoms.
Cape Mudge, with the bank off it to the south-east, have been already
described in p. 397. From it the West side of Valdes Island takes a north-
westerly direction, and at the distance of 3 miles is a small indentation
named Quathiasky Cove, bordered by a sandy beach. The cove is only fit for
steamers or small craft, and only affords room for one vessel to moor in its
S.E. and another in its northern part. The land between Cape Mudge and
Quathiasky Cove is about 100 feet high, flat, and fertile. An Indian village
of considerable extent stands midway between the two places.
Gowlland Harbour, the next opening in Valdes Island, about 5 miles
412
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
N.W. of Cape Mudge, is of considerable extent, being upwards of 2 miles
long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and a quarter to two-thirds of a mile
broad. The best berth, if stopping for a short time, is in 6 or 7 fathoms
about 2 cables East of Vigilant Point, the N.W. extreme of Gowlland Island,
In the South part of the harbour the water is deeper, and the anchorage
more extended. Off the entrance is Steep Island, about 100 feet high, 4
cables long, N.W. and S.E., and 1 cable wide. Gowlland Island protects
the harbour to the S.E. Entrance Bank lies nearly across the entrance to
the harbour, and partly dries at low water. There is a clear passage on
either side of it, with not less than 4 fathoms.
From Gowlland Harbour to Seymour Narrows the coast takes a W.N.W.
direction, being steep-to, high, and rugged. Maud Island, the S.E. point of
the Narrows, is small, and about 300 feet high.
Willow Point of Vancouver Island, the S. W. point of Discovery Passage,
lies S. by W. nearly 2 miles from Cape Mudge. It is low, covered with
willow bushes, and off it a sandstone ledge extends to the N.E. for nearly 3
cables. In passing the point do not approach within half a mile.
From Willow Point a low coast runs N.W. for 7 miles to Orange Point,
and is bordered the whole distance by a sandy beach
Duncan Bay, of which Orange Point is the East extreme, is about half a
mile deep, and affords good anchorage in 14 to 7 fathoms, sand, well out of
the tide, and sheltered from all except N.W. winds. This bay is easy of
access, and the best anchorage southward of Seymour Narrows.
Menzies Bay, immediately S. W. of Seymour Narrows, is of considerable
extent, running in a W.N.W. direction for 1½ mile, and three-quarters of a
mile broad, but in its centre is a large sand-bank, which partly dries at low
water, with a narrow but clear passage on either side. Good well-sheltered
anchorage in 5 to 6 fathoms may be procured between this bank and the
head of the bay.
SEYMOUR NARROWS, at 10 miles N.W. by W. from Cape Mudge are
about 1½ mile long, from 3 to 5 cables wide, and the shores on both sides are
high, rugged, and steep-to. A dangerous rock, with only 3 fathoms on it,
34
was discovered in the Narrows after the survey had been published. It lies
almost in the centre, but rather on the western side, between Maud Island
and Wilfred Point, at 3 cables N.W. by W. W. from the N.W. point of
the island, and near the heaviest of the tide-race. It is therefore dangerous
during the strength of either stream, and should only be passed at slack
water, keeping on the eastern shore. In consequence of the contraction in
breadth of Discovery Passage the tide rushes through these Narrows with
great velocity, nearly 9 knots at springs; the flood and ebb streams run for
nearly equal intervals of 6 hours, a very short period of slack water inter-
vening between them.
It is recommended to choose the early part of a favourable tide to pass
PLUMPER BAY-CHATHAM POINT.
413
through these Narrows, for during the greatest strength a boiling race
extends across, and steerage becomes very difficult.
Northward of the Narrows, Discovery Passage takes a north-westerly
direction for 12 miles to Chatham Point, the shores becoming more high and
rugged than before. On the eastern shore are several bays or openings, but
with the exception of Plumper Bay, too deep to afford anchorage. The
western shore is nearly straight, and near Chatham Point are Otter Cove
and Elk Bay, both affording anchorage.
Plumper Bay, half a mile North of Seymour Narrows, is about two-thirds
of a mile deep, and the same in width, affording anchorage in from 14 to
9 fathoms, near its S.E. part, easy of access, well sheltered, and out of the
tide. Deep-water Bay, separated from Plumper Bay by a peninsula, is about
1 mile deep, and half a mile broad, but too deep for anchorage.
Granite Point is a high white granite bluff on the western shore, at the
northern termination of Seymour Narrows. At 2 cables N.W. from Granite
Point is a rock with only 9 feet water.
Nodales Canal is an extensive opening running in a N.E. by E. direction
between Thurlow and Valdes Islands; its western entrance, which is upward
of a mile wide, with deep water, is 1 mile N.E. by N. from Chatham Point.
There are some tide-rips off it.
Elk Bay, on the West side of Discovery Passage, at 9 miles N.W. of
Seymour Narrows, is about 1 mile broad, and three-quarters of a mile deep.
It affords indifferent anchorage, in 14 to 15 fathoms. A rock, which covers
at half flood, lies 1 cable off the shore, three-quarters of a mile N.W. of
Elk Bay. Otter Cove, on the West side of Discovery Passage, and just South
of Chatham Point, is a small but snug anchorage, completely sheltered from
all winds by Limestone Island, in the centre of the entrance.
CHATHAM POINT, nearly 24 miles from Cape Mudge, is the N.W. ex-
treme of Discovery Passage, and also separates it from Johnstone Strait. It
is a low rocky point, and at 2 cables N.E. from its North extreme is the
Beaver Rock, awash at low water; in rounding, the shore ought not to be
approached nearer than half a mile.
Directions.-In proceeding through Discovery Passage from the south-
ward, if the tide be favourable, a vessel has only to keep in mid-channel till
past Seymour Narrows; but if the tide be unfavourable, after passing Cape
Mudge, keep about 2 or 3 cables off the eastern or Valdes Island shore,
which is steep-to, and the tide does not run so strong. If unable to get
through the Narrows, Menzies and Duncan Bays afford good anchorages.
The latter ought to be preferred, being easier of access.
North of Seymour Narrows, the tides being comparatively weak, a vessel
may proceed either in mid-channel or close to either shore, except in round-
ing Chatham Point, which should not be approached nearer than 4 or 5
cables, to clear the Beaver Rock. Plumper Bay affords a good stopping-
414
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
place to a vessel unable to proceed through Seymour Narrows from the
northward.
Sailing vessels of any size ought not to attempt to beat through southward
of the Seymour Narrows.
JOHNSTONE STRAIT, which separates the N.E. side of Vancouver
Island from the main, is comprised between Chatham Point and Beaver Cove,
being about 55 miles in length in a W. by N. and E. by S. direction, with
a varying breadth of 1 to 2 miles. The shore on both sides is high and
rugged, more especially the southern one, which may be said to be a con-
tinuous mountain range, rising almost abruptly from the sea, the summits of
which vary from 2,000 to 5,000 feet in height, some of the higher ones being
clad in snow all the year round.
The shores of the strait are nearly everywhere steep-to, except a few
spots along the northern side, hereafter described.
From Chatham Point to the West end of Thurlow Island the soundings
in mid-channel are very deep, no bottom in many places being found with
150 fathoms. West of Hardwicke Island it again deepens to no bottom at
150 and 170 fathoms.
Tides.-Everywhere in Johnstone Strait it is high water, full and change,
at 0h 30m, and the rise and fall of tide is from 15 to 17 feet. The streams
run from 2 to 2½ hours after high and low water by the shore, and except in
the vicinity of Helmcken Island and to the eastward of Knox Bay, they are
not strong. In the former place they run from 3 to 7 knots, and in the latter
2 to 4 knots; but in other parts of the strait they seldom exceed 1 to 3
knots per hour.
THURLOW ISLAND is on the North side of Johnstone Strait, to the
westward of Nodales Canal; its South side, which borders the strait, is rocky,
and about 13 miles long in a westerly direction; the eastern half is in-
dented by several bays, off which lie some small islands.
Knox Bay, on the South side of Thurlow, and 7 miles westward of Chat-
ham Point, is two-thirds of a mile deep and about the same in width, afford-
ing anchorage in from 15 to 17 fathoms 2 cables from the head. The an-
chorage is well protected from East or westerly winds, but it ought only to
be used as a stopping-place for the night or tide.
Between Knox Bay and Nodales Canal lie the Pender Islands, which are
very rugged and barren, the largest being 150 feet in height.
Westward of Knox Bay the coast of Thurlow Island is almost straight,
running in a W.S.W. direction for nearly 6 miles, when it turns to the N.W.
Its shores are high, rugged, and steep-to.
Ripple Point, on the South or Vancouver shore of the strait, 6 miles West
from Chatham Point, is steep-to, and between it and Knox Bay are some
heavy tide rips in blowing weather. Ripple Shoal.-Camp Point, 93 miles
PORT NEVILLE.
415
W. by S. S. from Ripple Point, slopes gradually to the sea; and half a
mile to the N.E. of it is the Ripple Shoal, with from 7 to 9 fathoms.
Salmon Bay. The coast between Ripple and Camp Points runs in a
W.S.W. direction, curving slightly inwards; and westward from Camp Point
to Salmon Bay it is nearly straight for 44 miles. Salmon Bay at high water
appears of considerable extent, but affords no anchorage.
Helmcken Island, lying 3 miles westward of Thurlow Island, in the
centre of the strait, is 1 mile long East and West, and about half a mile
wide, with a clear channel of the same width on either side of it. The
island is about 150 or 200 feet high. The Speaker Rock, which covers at
one-quarter flood, lies 2 cables N.E. from its eastern point, and is in the
track of vessels using Current Passage. Race Passage, to the southward of
Helmcken Island, is half a mile wide, but deep and clear of danger. The
tide sets very strongly through it. This is the passage generally used.
Hardwicke Island forms the North side of Johnstone Strait for 7 miles to
the westward of Thurlow Island, and is separated from the latter by Chan-
cellor Channel. Near its S.W. extremity, where Earl Ledge runs off for 3
cables, it only uncovers at low water. Two islets lie off the West point of
Hardwicke, and outside them the Fanny Reef, which covers or is awash at
high water. Blinkinsop Bay, on the shore of British Columbia, 21 miles
N.W. of Hardwicke Island, and 25 miles from Chatham Point, is about 1
mile deep, and half a mile wide. This bay affords good anchorage, in 10 to
12 fathoms, about one-third of a mile N.E. of its S.W. point, and is well
sheltered and easy of access.
PORT NEVILLE, the next opening in British Columbia West of Blin-
kinsop Bay, is of considerable extent, running in a north-easterly direction
for 7 miles, and varying from one-quarter to 1 mile in breadth. It affords
a spacious and secure anchorage, but in consequence of the Channel Rock
lying near the middle of its entrance channel, great caution is required in
entering. In the shoalest part of the entrance channel there are not more
than 22 or 3 fathoms, and in the middle of its North part, 3 cables S.W.
S. from Boulder Point, is the Channel Rock, of small extent and very dan-
gerous, having only 4 feet over it.
Robbers' Nob is a remarkable low grassy point on the North side of the
port, about 1 mile from Boulder Point; to the westward of it is a shoal bay,
into which flow some large streams. The best anchorage is about half a
mile S.W. of the Nob in 6 or 7 fathoms.
It is high water, full and change, in Port Neville at 0h 30m, the rise and
fall of tide being 17 feet.
The coast between Ports Neville and Harvey runs in a W. by S. direction,
slightly indented. W. by S. S. 4 miles from the entrance of Port Neville,
and one-quarter of a mile off shore, lies the Slimpson Reef, which covers at
half flood.
416
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
PORT HARVEY, the next inlet westward of Port Neville on the North
side of Johnstone Strait, runs in a northerly direction for 4 miles, with a
breadth varying from one-quarter to three-quarters of a mile, and affords
good and well-sheltered anchorage in 7 to 9 fathoms, muddy bottom, at the
distance of half a mile from its head. From its head to the N.W. is a nar-
row gorge, which partly fills at high water and joins Knight Inlet. The
soundings in the entrance vary from 60 to 80 fathoms, shoaling rapidly to-
wards the head. Broken Islands, off the East side of the entrance, are low,
rugged, and of small extent.
HAVANNAH CHANNEL, the western entrance of which is 1 mile North
of Broken Islands, runs in a north-easterly direction from the East side of
Port Harvey, connecting it with Call Creek. Its length is about 4 miles,
and its breadth varies from one-half to 1 mile. There are several islands
within it, which lie mostly in mid-channel. Boughey Bay, in the S.E. part
of Havannah Channel, is about 1 mile deep in a southerly direction, and
half a mile broad. A vessel may anchor in this bay at a distance of half
a mile from the head. Browning Rock, in the North part of Havannah
Channel, about one-third of a mile North of Hull Island, has only 12 feet
over it, and lies nearly in the fairway of the channel to Call Creek.
CALL CREEK, the South part of which may be be said to commence at
the N.E. point of Havannah Channel, is an inlet of considerable extent, its
length in a north-easterly direction being 12 miles, and its breadth varying
from one-half to 1 mile. The shores on either side are high and precipi-
tous, rising abruptly to mountains from 1,000 and 4,700 feet in height. The
head terminates in a low swamp.
Chatham Channel, the East part of which commences at Root Point, the
N.W. extreme of Havannah Channel, trends to the westward, connecting
these waters with Knight Inlet. It is not recommended to use this channel.
Captain Vancouver's tender, the Chatham, a small brig, passed through
this channel to the westward in July, 1792, and the least water found was
3 fathoms.
It is high water, full and change, in Port Harvey at 0h 30m, and the rise
and fall of tide is 10 feet.
Escape Reef, lying 2 miles West of Broken Islands, and half a mile off the
North shore of Johnstone Strait, is about a cable in extent, has 4 feet least
water on it, and is marked by kelp in the summer.
Forward Bay, 3 miles W.S.W. from Port Harvey, is a slight bend in
the coast, about 1 mile broad, and three-quarters of a mile deep, with a
small islet 30 feet high off its S.W. point. Its shores are moderately high,
and a bank extends nearly 3 cables from its head. This bay affords good
anchorage, in 14 to 10 fathoms, off the edge of the bank; in entering it
from the eastward guard against the Escape Reef. From Forward Bay the
northern shore of Johnstone Strait becomes comparatively low, and trends
BROUGHTON STRAIT.
417
W. by S. for 15 miles to Weynton Passage, at the termination of the strait.
Boat Harbour, a small cove affording shelter to boats, is 6 miles westward of
Forward Bay.
Hanson and Cracroft Islands, between Boat Harbour and Weynton
Passage, are low, with rocky shores, and are separated by a passage 1 mile
wide. The South side of Hanson is 3 miles long, and off its S.W. point are
some rocks extending for 2 or 3 cables to the westward. Cracroft, to the
eastward of it, is about 2 miles long; and off its South part, at the distance
of half a mile, are the Sophia Islets, of small extent.
For a steamer, or sailing vessel with a fair wind, the navigation of John-
stone Strait is perfectly easy, it being only requisite to keep in mid-channel,
except when nearing Helmcken Island from the eastward, when a vessel
ought, after passing Thurlow Island, to keep within three cables of the
southern shore, or Camp Point, till past the Ripple Shoal, which, from
being marked with kelp, is likely to have less than 7 fathoms over it. In
the vicinity of Helmcken the tides are strong, but not enough to stop a
steam-vessel of moderate power. To the westward of it they have no great
strength.
BROUGHTON STRAIT, which connects Queen Charlotte Sound with
Johnstone Strait, is upwards of 14 miles in length, East and West, the
breadth varying from 4 miles at the East to 1 mile at the West entrance.
Its southern shore is formed by Vancouver Island, and the northern one by
the South side of Malcolm Island, and both, except near Beaver Cove, are
low. There are several islands, rocks, and shoals in the eastern part; but a
clear navigable passage along the southern side half a mile wide in the nar-
rowest place, which is abreast Alert Bay in Cormorant Island.
TIDES.-In Broughton Strait it is high water, full and change, at 0h 30m,
the rise and fall of tide being 14 or 15 feet.
Beaver Cove, at the S.E. extreme of Broughton Strait, runs in upwards
of a mile in a southerly direction, and is half a mile wide; its shores are
high, and the depth is too great for anchorage. Mount Holdsworth, a re-
markable conical peak, 3,000 feet high, and very conspicuous from the
eastward, rises 3 miles to the S.W. of the cove.
Nimpkish River, which flows into a shallow bay on the South shore, 5
miles westward of Beaver Cove, is upwards of a cable wide at entrance,
with 2½ fathoms, but only navigable for any distance by canoes. On the
North bank of the Nimpkish, at the entrance, is a small plateau of grassy
land, on which are the ruins of a large native village, called Oheslakee.
Port McNeill, on the South side of Broughton Strait, about 10 miles W.
from Beaver Cove, runs in a W.S.W. direction for 2 miles, is three-quarters
of a mile broad, and affords a good, well-sheltered anchorage, in 6 to 9
fathoms. From Ledge Point, the North point of entrance, a narrow ledge
with 3 to 5 fathoms on it, runs out E.N.E. 1 mile, and kelp grows over it
North Pacific.
2 E
418
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
in summer. Eel Reef, lying 9 cables S.S.W. from Ledge Point, and about
2 cables off the South shore of the port, covers at three-quarters flood. The
coast from Port Mc Neill runs about W.S.W. 4 miles to the entrance of
Queen Charlotte Sound.
Weynton Passage.—Pearse Islands, in the centre of Broughton Strait, at
its eastern entrance, are a group of small low islands, with some rocks ex-
tending a short distance North and S.E. of them. Weynton Passage, be-
tween Hanson and Pearse Islands, is about 14 mile wide; and unless want-
ing to anchor in Mitchell Bay, it ought not to be used. Race Passage, be-
tween Pearse and Cormorant Islands, is two-thirds of a mile wide, but a rock
lies in mid-channel at its South part. The passage is dangerous. Cormo-
rant Island lies in the centre of the strait, to the West of Pearse Islands. It
is about 150 feet high, and 23 miles long, East and West. Gordon Point,
its S.E. extreme, is 23 miles W. by N. from Beaver Cove. Alert Bay, on
the South side of Cormorant Island, is nearly 1 mile wide, and half a mile
deep, affording a good and well sheltered anchorage in from 6 to 9 fathoms,
muddy bottom. Yellow Bluff, the S.W. point of the bay, may be recog-
nized by a remarkable yellow cliff at the extreme of the point. Haddington
Island, 7 miles West of Beaver Cove, in the centre of Broughton Strait, is
small. Its South and West sides are steep-to, but from the northern one
a bar, with as little as 9 feet water in some parts, ruus across the strait to
Malcolm Island.
Between Haddington Island and the ledge running off from the North
point of Port McNeill, is a passage three-quarters of a mile wide, with not
less than 7 fathoms water in mid-channel.
MALCOLM ISLAND, which forms the North side of Broughton Strait,
is 13 miles long W.S.W. and E.N.E., with an average breadth of nearly
2 miles; the shores are generally low, a sandy beach extending off a short
distance from them. On its South side are Mitchell and Rough Bays, in
which vessels may anchor in 6 or 8 fathoms. Donegal Head, its East point,
is high, cliffy, bordered by a beach, and the tide runs strong in its vicinity.
Dickenson Point, on the South side of the island, is connected by a bar, with
9 feet in some parts, to Haddington Island.
DIRECTIONS.-In navigating Broughton Strait from the eastward, when
abreast Beaver Cove in mid-channel, a W. S. course, to pass not more than
2 cables South of Cormorant Island, will keep a vessel clear to the north-
ward of Nimpkish Bank, and when the West point of Cormorant Island
bears N. by E. she will be westward of it; then steer to round the S.W.
point of Haddington Island within a quarter of a mile, to avoid the ledge
off Ledge Point; when the North shore of Cormorant Island opens of Had-
dington Island E. by N., a vessel may steer out of the strait in mid-channel.
None, except small craft, should go to the northward of Haddington Island.
BEAVER HARBOUR.
419
Sailing vessels of any size would find it tedious to beat through this strait,
and as there are several dangers it is not recommended to do so.
QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND is an extensive arm of the sea, connecting
the inner waters North of Vancouver Island with the Pacific. It was so
named by Captain S. Wedgborough, of the Experiment, in 1786. Its length
is upwards of 30 miles, running in an easterly direction, and its breadth
varies from 10 to 20 miles, being bounded on the North by the shores of
British Columbia, and on the South by the North shore of Vancouver
Island. In the North and N.E. parts are innumerable rocks and islands,
of which little is at present known; but along its southern sides are two
broad and narrow channels to the Pacific.
Broughton Strait enters this sound at its S.E. part. From thence to
Thomas Point the Coast of Vancouver runs W. by N. for 9 miles, and
is low; it is bordered the whole distance by a beach composed of sand and
boulders, and foul ground marked by kelp exists off it, from one quarter to
half a mile.
BEAVER HARBOUR, on the South side of the sound, 9 miles westward
of Broughton Strait, is 3 miles wide at entrance and 2 miles deep. The
harbour is protected or formed by several islands lying across, and within
the entrance; its shores are low, and from the South shore a bank extends
off 3 or 4 cables; a short distance inland from its western side are seven re-
markable hills, varying in height from 400 to 640 feet. There is good an-
chorage in the South and West parts of the harbour, but north-easterly winds
send in a heavy sea, rendering it impossible to land on the South shore for
days together.
Fort Rupert, a Hudson Bay Company's fort or trading post, is on the
South shore; it has been established several years, and is in charge of a
chief trader. Adjacent to it is a small quantity of clear land, also a very
fine garden, where fruit, and vegetables common to the climate, are
grown in great abundance.
In the vicinity of the fort is a large native
village.
Thomas Point, the S.E. extreme of the harbour, is low and rocky; some
rocks lie upwards of 2 cables off it to the westward. The channel between
it and Deer Island is about 4 cables wide, and clear of danger. Moffat Rock,
8 cables to the westward of Thomas Point, is 3 cables off shore, just at the
outer edge of the bank, and uncovers at low water.
Deer Island, two-thirds of a mile North of Thomas Point, is about 1
mile in circumference, wooded, and about 240 feet high; extending nearly
4 cables off its N.W. part is a reef marked by kelp, with 9 feet water over
it. Round Island, half a mile N. by E. of Deer Island, is small, but high,
and conspicuous from the eastward. Peel Island, in the North part of
Beaver Harbour, is three-quarters of a mile long S.W. and N.E., and
between it and the West shore of the harbour is a passage 2 cables wide in
2 E 2
420
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
the narrowest part, with 17 fathoms water. There is a good channel into
the harbour, close along the East side of Peel Island, which is steep-to.
Cattle Islands, which lie in the middle of the harbour, are small and con-
nected with each other at low water. At 1 cable South of them is Shell
Islet, the observation spot on which is in lat. 50° 42′ 36″ N., long. 127° 25′ 7″
W.; a reef awash at high water lies 1 cable South of it. Cormorant Rock,
lying one-third of a mile off the western shore of the harbour, and nearly
half a mile West of Shell Islet, covers at high water.
Dædalus Passage, leading from the West part of Beaver Harbour to the
northward, is 2 cables wide in its narrowest part, and has not less than 17
fathoms in mid-channel.
Beaver Harbour is easy of access to either sailing vessels or steamers.
There are three passages into it, but the southern one, between Thomas
Point and Deer Island, is the best, and generally used, being wide enough
for a vessel to beat through.
It is high water, full and change, in Beaver Harbour at 0h 30m, and the
rise and fall is from 15 to 16 feet.
Hardy Bay, to the westward of Beaver Harbour, and separated from it
by Dillon Point, runs in a southerly direction for 4 miles; its breadth at the
entrance is 2 miles, narrowing to the head. There is no anchorage, except
in the small creek at the head, which is difficult of access, and should not be
used by a stranger.
GOLETAS CHANNEL, which runs along the North shore of Vancouver
Island to the Pacific, is 22 miles long East and West, with a breadth vary-
ing from 1 to 2 miles. Its shores are high, rugged, and steep-to, except
in the western part, and may be generally approached to a quarter of a
mile. The northern side is composed of a group of islands, mostly small,
through which are several navigable passages. There are four anchorages.
within the channel; Shushartie Bay on the South side; Port Alexander,
Shadwell Passage, and Bull Harbour on the North side; and all, with the
exception of the latter, easily accessible to sailing vessels. Duval Point,
on the South side at the eastern entrance of the channel, is 15 miles West
of Broughton Strait.
The soundings throughout the channel to the West entrance are very
deep, varying from 190 to 80 fathoms, but there the bottom suddenly rises
from 40 to 7 and 9 and in one part to less than 3 fathoms, forming Nahwitti
Bar, stretching completely across the channel, and in a great measure pre-
venting any heavy sea rising inside it during westerly gales.
Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in the Goletas Channel at
Oh 30m, and the rise and fall varies from 12 to 14 feet. The streams in
the East part of the channel run from 1 to 3 knots, but near the West
entrance, in the vicinity of the Nahwitti Bar, they are much stronger, run-
CAPE COMMERELL-GALIANO ISLAND.
421
ning from 2 to 5 knots, turning shortly after high and low water by the
shore.
Shushartie Bay.--From Duval Point the South shore of Goletas Channel
runs 15 miles in a westerly direction to Shushartie Bay, with a rugged rocky
outline; it is everywhere steep-to. Shushartie Bay is about half a mile in
extent, and its shores are high, except at the head, from which a sand-bank
runs off more than 2 cables. There is a very limited but fairly sheltered
anchorage just inside the N.E. point of bay, in about 13 fathoms, at the
distance of a cable off shore, but from the steepness of the bank it should
only be considered as a stopping place. Dillon Rock, which covers at one
quarter flood at 1 cable West of the East point of bay, is in the way of
vessels entering from the eastward.
Shingle Point, 2 miles West of Shushartie Bay, is low; a beach runs off
it a short distance; westward of this point it is difficult to land, except in
fair weather.
CAPE COMMERELL, 22 miles West of Duval Point, is the northernmost
point of Vancouver Island, and the South point of the West entrance to
Goletas Channel. The cape is low, and some rocks extend off it for nearly
2 cables. There is an Indian village on the East side of the cape.
Gordon Group consists of a number of small islands running in an East
and West direction for 5 miles, and bordering the North part of the East
entrance of Goletas Channel. They are high and steep-to, and on the
eastern or Doyle Island is Miles cone, a remarkable summit 380 feet high.
Duncan Island, 1 mile South of the Gordon Group, is about a mile in cir-
cumference, and 300 feet high. Christie Passage, between the West side of
the Gordon Group and Balaklava Island, is half a mile wide. Its shores
are free from danger. Browning Passage, to the West of Balaklava Island,
between it and Galiano Island, runs in a north-westerly direction from the
Goletas to New Channel. Its length is about 3 miles; it is deep, and a
mid-channel course through is free from danger. The tide is very weak in
this channel.
GALIANO ISLAND, the largest of the islands on the North side of Go-
letas Channel, is of triangular shape, nearly 8 miles long, and 3 miles
broad, the base fronting to the southward. The shores are very much broken
along the North and East sides; a remarkable peak of conical shape, 1,200
feet high, Mount Lemon, rises near its S.W. part, and Port Alexander is
formed at its S.E. extreme.
Port Alexander, upwards of 7 miles from Duval Point, and on the West
side of Browning Channel, runs in a north-westerly direction for 1 mile,
with a general breadth of about 4 cables. This port is easy of access to
steamers and sailing vessels with a fair wind, and affords good anchorage in
12 to 13 fathoms, half a mile from its head, well sheltered from all except
south-easterly winds.
422
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
Shadwell Passage, in the N.W. part of the Goletas Channel, between
Galiano and Hope Islands, is 3 miles long in a northerly direction, and its
breadth varies from one half to 1 mile. The soundings in the South part
of this passage are from 80 to 100 fathoms, decreasing rapidly from 9 to 13
fathoms to the northward.
Vansittart Island, in the centre of the passage at its North part, is 1 mile
long. West of it are some rocks and small islets. Willes Island, at the S.E.
part of the passage, is steep-to, and may be approached to a cable.
Centre Island, in the middle of the passage, and 5 cables S.W. from Van-
sittart Island, is small. One Tree Islet, 4 cables West of Vansittart, is
small, about 40 feet high, and has a single tree on its summit, which is very
conspicuous when seen from the northward, and of great use in identifying
the passage.
Cape James, the N.W. extreme of Shadwell Passage, is a
rocky bluff; some rocks extend off it to the southward for a short distance,
and foul ground, marked by kelp, exists between it and Turn Point.
Shadwell Passage may be used by steamers or sailing vessels with a fair
wind. It would hardly be prudent to beat a large vessel through it, as there
is generally a heavy swell and strong tide in the North part. It is the pas-
sage usually taken by the Hudson Bay Company's vessels when bound North
from the inner waters.
HOPE ISLAND, the westernmost of the group which form the North side
of Goletas Channel, is 6 miles long, East and West, and its greatest breadth
is 33 miles. The island is moderately high, and its shores are very much
broken. The sea breaks heavily along its North and West sides, and off
Mexicana Point, the western extreme, a reef extends 3 cables. The South
shore is steep, and may be approached to one quarter of a mile.
Bull Harbour has its entrance on the South side of Hope Island, 2 miles
from the western entrance of Goletas Channel. Though small, this harbour
affords a very secure landlocked anchorage. It runs in a northerly direction
for 1½ mile across Hope Island, its head being only separated from the N.
shore of the island by a narrow rock of low land 403 feet wide; its breadth
at the entrance is 5 cables, contracting to 1 cable at half the distance from
the head, after which it again increases to nearly 2 cables.
Indian Island, 1 cable North of the narrowest part of the entrance, is small,
but completely shuts in the harbour to the southward. The anchorage is
to the northward of this island, in about 4 fathoms water, but there is only
room for one or two vessels of moderate size to lie moored. If intending to
enter Bull Harbour, steer up mid-channel, passing East of Indian Island,
and moor immediately the vessel is North of it, anchors North and South.
Steamers, or only small sailing vessels, should use this anchorage, as
from its narrow and tortuous entrance, it is rather difficult of access to
long vessels.
Nahwitti Bar, or ledge, stretching across the West entrance of the Go-
NEW CHANNEL.
423
letas Channel, is of sandstone formation, and on the eastern edge rises sud-
denly from 40 to 9 fathoms, the depth increasing very gradually to the
westward. Its breadth within the 10-fathoms line is from 1 to nearly 3 miles,
broadest at the South part, where are several shoal spots, called Tatnall Reefs,
with 2 and 3 fathoms, at a distance of 1 mile from the South shore
;
northward of these patches the depths vary from 6 to 9 fathoms. In
heavy westerly gales the sea breaks right across the Goletas Channel at
this bar.
Lemon Point, Galiano Island, open North of Shingle Point, Vancouver
Island, bearing E. by N., leads over the Nahwitti Bar in the deepest water
from 7 to 9 fathoms, well to the northward of Tatnall Reefs.
NEW CHANNEL, to the northward of the Goletas Channel, and separated
from it by the islands which form the North shore of the latter, is an
extensive clear passage to the Pacific Ocean, about 12 miles long, and a
breadth varying from 1 to 4 miles. Its depth in the shoalest part is 60
fathoms, near the eastern entrance, and its shores, except near the West part
of the Gordon Group, may be approached to nearly half a mile; the North
limit of the channel is formed by Walker Group to the eastward, and a few
low rocks and islets to the N.W.
Generally a heavy swell sets through New Channel from the westward,
and with the exception that there is more room for a large vessel to work
in or out than in Goletas Channel, there is no reason to use it in pre-
ference to the latter, unless, if running in before a heavy westerly gale,
the sea were breaking across the West entrance of Goletas Channel at the
Nahwitti Bar.
Doyle Island, the south-easternmost of the Gordon Group, and at the
point of New Channel, is three-quarters of a mile long, and, as before
stated, has a remarkable summit, 380 feet high, Miles Cone, on its centre.
The Crane Islets are small, 30 feet high, and steep-to, there being 100
fathoms water at a cable's distance. They lie 24 miles westward of Doyle
Island, and about 3 cables North of Gordon Group.
Boyle Island 1 mile West of Crane Islets, and half a mile North of
Hurst Island, is small; at half a mile N.W. of it is the Grey Rock, which
covers at one quarter flood, and is dangerous to vessels beating through
this channel.
The North shore of Balaklava Island is rugged, and half a mile N.W.
from its N.W. point are three low islets, 6 feet above high water, at the
North entrance to Browning Channel.
The North shore of Galiano Island is also rugged; some outlying rocks
lie a short distance off it, but it may be approached to one-third of a
mile.
WALKER GROUP, at the N.E. part of New Channel, from 2 to 3 miles
North of its South side, is composed of a number of small islands and rocks,
424
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
covering an extent of 6 miles in a westerly direction, and 2 miles broad, the
highest is about 300 feet above the sea; among them are several small
creeks and bights, which would afford shelter to boats, or even small craft.
Castle Point, at the S.E. extreme of the group, is bold, cliffy, and steep-to,
with no bottom at 60 fathoms 2 cables South of it. White Rock, at the South
extreme of Walker Group, lies 2 miles W.S.W. from Castle point; it is 4
feet above high water. Nye Rock, off the South end of Schooner Passage, at
the West part of the group, covers at high water; it lies W. N. 24 miles
from White Rock, and may be approached to 2 cables on the South side, but
large vessels should not stand inside it to the northward.
3
Redfern Island, the S.W. of Walker Group, is about half a mile long, and
one quarter of a mile wide; half a mile S.E. of it are some rocks just
above high water. Prosser Rock, 2 miles W. by N. 2 N. of Redfern Island,
is small, about 2 feet above high water. Nearly a mile farther in the same
direction is Bright Islet, 100 feet high. Pine Island, at the N.W. part of
New Channel, is about a mile in circumference, low, and wooded, and con-
spicuous from the westward.
Storm Islands, in the centre of Queen Charlotte Sound, 24 miles north-
ward of Pine Island, are a narrow chain of islets extending 2 miles East and
West.
The COAST from Cape Commerell (page 421), the N.W. point of Van-
couver Island, takes a S.W. direction for 16 miles to Cape Scott. It is
rather low, but rises at a distance inland to hills 800 and 1,000 feet high; it
is indented by several bays, which, however, are too open to afford any
shelter, except in southerly winds; foul ground extends off in some places
more than one mile.
HECATE ROCK, lying W. S. 1 mile from Cape Commerell, and
three-quarters of a mile off shore, covers at three-quarters flood, and the
sea breaks heavily over it. Lemon Point, Galiano Island, just open of or
touching Shingle Point, Vancouver Island, E. by N., leads three-quarters of
a mile North of it.
At Cape Scott the flood comes from the southward, and rounding the
cape sets into the Goletas Channel, its strength varying from 1 to 3 knots.
SCOTT CHANNEL, between Cape Scott and the Scott Islands to the
westward, is 5 miles wide, with soundings in it varying from 25 to 40 fa-
thoms. It is a safe navigable channel for any class of vessel, the only
known dangers in it being the rocks extending nearly a mile West of Cape
Scott. The tide runs through from 1 to 3 knots, the flood from the
southward.
SCOTT ISLANDS extend nearly 20 miles in an East and West direction;
the principal ones are five in number, with some adjacent smaller islets.
There are wide passages between the western islands, but as no soundings
have been obtained in them, and strong tide ripples and overfalls have in-
THE COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.
425
variably been observed raging there, no vessel should venture among or
through them, unless compelled to do so.
Westward of Cape Scott the tides set with considerable strength to the
North and South across the entrance of Goletas Channel, and a vessel pas-
sing out northward of the Scott Islands must be aware that she is not set
down too near them with the ebb stream.
Cox Island, the easternmost and largest of the group, is about 24
miles in extent, with iron bound rocky shores and several off-lying dan-
gers. Its height is upwards of 1,000 feet. This island forms the western
boundary of the Scott Channel, and is upwards of 5 miles W. by S. from
Cape Scott.
Lanz Island, separated from Cox Island by a passage half a mile wide, is
upwards of 2 miles long in a westerly direction, and a mile broad; its shores,
like Cox Island, are rocky, and it rises near the centre to a summit 1,177 ft.
above the sea; both the islands are wooded.
East Haycock, a small islet 80 feet high, is 23 miles S. W. from Lanz
Island; it has a rugged outline. West Haycock, 5 miles W. S. from East
Haycock, is small and rocky, about 180 feet high.
Triangle Island, the westernmost of the group, is 26 miles W. by S. from
Cape Scott; it is 680 feet high, about a mile in extent, and differs from the
other islands in being very precipitous and bare of trees, and has a remark-
able gap in its summit. A ledge or reef extends 1 mile N.W. of it; to the
eastward are three low islets, the outermost of which, 40 feet high, is 13
mile from Triangle Island.
In navigating near the Scott Islands, it is recommended to give them a
good offing, especially in a sailing vessel, as the tides set very strongly
through the passages between them.
This will complete the description of the circuit of Vancouver Island. Its
seaward coast has been included in the previous Chapter, and this terminated
at Cape Scott. Of its interior, it would be out of place to dwell upon here;
but at the conclusion of this Chapter, some of the more recent works on the
subject are enumerated.
The COAST of British Columbia, to the northward of Queen Charlotte
Sound, is less known and frequented than that adjacent to Vancouver Island.
For its delineation and description we are chiefly dependant on the excellent.
work of Vancouver. Although this is now of old date, it is of less im-
portance, inasmuch as from the nature of the coast, an iron-bound region
not liable to change its character, the careful survey, as far as it went, will
be sufficient guide for the present, although no one can predict what its future
may be. As it is, it remains in its primeval condition.
426
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
CAPE CAUTION, which forms the N.E. limit of Queen Charlotte Sound,
was so named by Vancouver on his second visit, from the dangerous naviga-
tion in its vicinity. It makes a conspicuous cape, terminating in rugged,
rocky, low hummocks, that produce some dwarf pine, and other small trees
and shrubs. Off the cape are some very dangerous breakers, consisting ap-
parently of three distinct patches, occupying the space of a league. Their
eastern part bears from Cape Caution W. by N. & N., distant about 5 miles;
but the rocks that lie off the shore to the northward of the cape reduce the
width of the channel between them and the breakers to about a league, in
which there does not appear any obstruction which is not sufficiently con-
spicuous to be avoided.
The Virgin and Pearl Rocks are two very dangerous clusters off the
entrance to Smith Inlet. They were discovered and named by Mr. Hanna,
in 1786. The Virgin Rocks lie W. by N. N. 13 miles from the South
point of Smith Inlet; and the Pearl Rocks, N.W. & N. 8 miles from the
same point. They lie in a line, W.S.W. from the South extreme of Cal-
vert Island, 11 and 4 miles distant respectively.
SMITH INLET.-The entrance lies about 7 miles North of Cape Cau-
tion, the intervening coast being bestrewed with rocks and islets.
The en-
trance into it is nearly closed by rocky islets, with innumerable rocks, as
well above as beneath the sea, rendering it a very intricate and dangerous
navigation for shipping. About 3 leagues within the entrance the rocks and
islets cease to exist, and the inlet contracts to about half a mile in gene-
ral width.
River Canal is about a league to the northward of the North point of
Smith Inlet. The entrance to it appears less dangerous than the latter.
It has, however, on its southern side many rocky islets and rocks, but none
were discovered beneath the water level. By keeping on the North side of
the entrance, which is 1 mile across, a fair navigable passage is found,
about half a mile wide, between the North shore and the rocky islets that
lie off its southern side. There was no bottom found in the middle with 80
fathoms of line. From River Canal, a channel diverges towards the
South end of Calvert Island. It is very narrow and intricate, leading
through an immensity of rocks and islets to Point Addenbrooke, in Fitz-
hugh Sound.
CALVERT ISLAND forms the exterior coast northward of River Canal,
and within it is Fitzhugh Sound; the former was discovered and named by
Mr. Duncan, the latter by Mr. Hanna. Off the South point of the island
are two small islets. The eastern side of the island forms a steep bold shore,
rising abruptly from the sea to a great height.
Safety Cove (Port Safety of Mr. Duncan ?) is 2 leagues North of the South
extreme of Calvert Island, on the West shore of Fitzhugh's Sound. It ter-
minates in a small beach, near which is a stream of excellent water.
The
BURKE CANAL.
depth is, however, rather great, 17 to 30 fathoms.
427
It is the first place that
affords safe and convenient anchorage on the western shore within Fitzhugh
Sound. Vancouver found it a comfortable retreat, in August, 1792.
High water at the time the moon passes the meridian; rise and fall
about 10 feet.
At 13 miles northward of Safety Cove is the passage which insulates Cal-
vert Island. Vancouver places its N.E. point in lat. 51° 45'. South of this
lies a sunken rock, which, though near the shore, is dangerous, being visible
at low tides only by the surf which breaks on it. From this point the pas-
sage extends S.W. by W. W., about 7 miles. Between the rocks on
its northern shore is a passage, generally 1 or 2 miles wide, but ren-
dered unpleasant by the want of soundings, the depth being beyond 150
fathoms.
Fitzhugh Sound extends for 26 miles from Safety Cove, in nearly a true
North direction to Point Walker, where it separates into two arms. The
easternmost was named by Vancouver after Edmund Burke. Its S.E. point
is Point Edmund, about 2 miles E.S.E. from Point Walker. There are some
rocks off the points, but the channel is fair. The sides of the canal are com-
posed of compact, stupendous mountains, and nearly perpendicular rocky
cliffs, producing pine trees.
Restoration Cove is about 1 mile within the entrance to the eastern
branch of Burke Canal. It has a fine sandy beach. The breadth of the
cove at its entrance, in a North and South direction, is about 1 mile, and
its depth about three-quarters of a mile. The soundings, though deep, are
regular, from 60 fathoms at the entrance, to 5 and 10 fathoms close to the
shore. The land on the opposite side of the arm is 2 miles distant. The
tide rises and falls 14 feet.
BURKE CANAL extends to the N.E., maintaining the same breadth.
Its north-western side is formed by a large island, named by Vancouver
King Island. After continuing 11 miles in an easterly direction from the
N.E. point of King Island, the canal separates into two arms to the N.E.
and S.E. at Point Menzies. These arms were named by Vancouver Ben-
tinck Arms. The width of that to the S.E. in general a little exceeds a mile,
and the country exactly resembles that contiguous to the branches, which
have been so repeatedly described.
Sir Alexander Mackenzie reached the Pacific after his long, arduous, and
perilous journey across the continent at this point a month after Vancouver's
party had left. He came to a village of 26 large houses, where Mr. John-
stone had come on June 1st, 1793. He coasted along King Island, and
learned that Macubah (as the natives termed Vancouver) had been there
with his large canoe.
He commenced his return July 22, 1793.
This is as desolate, inhospitable a country as the most melancholy creature
could be desirous of inhabiting.
428
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
New Aberdeen, a recent establishment, is at the head of the N.E. Bentinck
Arm. The old charts place "the village of Rascals" here—an expressive
name. It was afterwards called Kougotes, or Belhoula. The Belhoula, or
Bella Coola River, flows into the head of the arm in a W.S.W. direction.
Much attention has been directed to this place, as a point of departure for the
upper course of the Fraser River, and a "trail" exists to Fort Alexandria
below the mouth of the Quesnelle.* Captain Mayne gives an account
of several expeditions which have crossed the intermediate country (pages
145—151).
The N.E. point of King Island was named Point Edward. Opposite
to it is the entrance of Dean Canal, which penetrates many miles in a
N.E. and North direction, terminating in low marshy land.
Cascade Canal is to the N.W. of Point Edward. Its shores are bounded
by precipices more lofty than any hereabouts; and from the summits of the
mountains, particularly on the N.E. shore, are some extremely grand and
tremendous cascades. The canal which forms the N.W. side of King Island
runs S.W. to Fisher Canal, which separates the southernmost of the Prin-
cess Royal Islands from the main land.
The PRINCESS ROYAL ISLANDS form a portion of that immense ar-
chipelago which here fronts the American continent. On its western side it
is uneven, rocky, and of moderate height. The eastern shore rises more ab-
ruptly, and bounded behind with lofty snowy mountains.
Port John is 10 miles nearly North of the entrance to Burke Canal
before described. It is on the western side of King Island, and forms a
good harbour. Its North point of entrance bears N. by E. 2 miles from its
South point.
To the North of Port John is the entrance to the canal previously men-
tioned, which passes round the N.W. side of King Island toward Cascade
and Dean Canals. Fisher Canal continues its northern course for 12
miles above Port John, its shores being comparatively of moderate height.
From this point it takes a westerly course to Milbank Sound, and forms the
North limit of the southern Princess Royal Island. The course is first about
W. by N. N. a league, the shores being low and rocky, with many detached
rocks lying off them. The channel then takes a more southerly course, and,
although there are many rocks and breakers in it, they are all sufficiently
conspicuous to be avoided in fair weather.
MILBANK SOUND is an opening between the Princess Royal Islands, in
lat. 15° 13'. Its S.E. point is Cape Swaine, so named after the third lieutenant
* A terrible tragedy occurred on this road in May, 1864. The treacherous Indians
destroyed nearly the whole of a party who were making their way to the Cariboo Gold
Fields. The particulars are quoted in Mr. F. Whymper's interesting work, pp. 34, 35.
MILBANK SOUND.
429
of the Discovery, Vancouver's vessel. Milbank Sound was discovered and
named by Mr. Duncan. Its N.W. point is Point Day, off which lie several
very barren rocky islets. The southern side of the channel or sound, being
entirely covered with trees and with low shores, is very pleasant in appearance
but the northern sides are a rude, confused mass of low, rugged cliffs, bounded
by innumerable rocky islets and rocks.
Fort M'Loughlin, distant a few miles from Milbank Sound, is (or was) one
of the Hudson Bay Company's posts. "This very neat establishment was
planned, in 1837, by Mr. Finlayson, of Red River, who left the place in an
unfinished state to Mr. Manson, who, in his turn, had certainly made the
most of the capabilities of the situation.
Several inlets or arms run up to the northward from the canal leading
from Fisher Canal into Milbank Sound. They are very similar in character
and need no particular description. The principal arm out of Milbank
Sound is the westernmost, and runs in a general northerly direction for 30
miles, when it divides, one portion continuing to the northward, and a wider
branch extending eastward to Carter Bay and Mussel Canal. These two
last derive their names from one of Vancouver's party having died from the
effects of poisonous mussels collected in Poison Cove, lat. 52° 55', long. 128° 1′
W. The whole party who partook of them were seized with a numbness
about their faces and extremities, which soon extended to their whole bodies,
accompanied with sickness and giddiness. This may serve as a caution here,
though generally the shell-fish is wholesome.
From Carter Bay the principal inlet continues its northward course, and
5 miles beyond the junction is an opening, apparently communicating with
the sea, running southward on the western side of the channel; 13 and 17
miles farther on are two openings on the opposite or eastern, which extend
but a short distance inland. Vancouver found scarcely any inhabitants here.
The tides rose 15 feet, and it was high water 10h 15m after the moon passed
the meridian. Continuing northward, but bearing more to the westward,
the canal still skirts the western shore of the Princess Royal Island, as far as
its North extreme. Near this, on the eastern shore, is a commodious cove,
where Vancouver anchored. A league northward is a small inlet, where a
hot spring was discovered.
In sailing among the rocky precipices which compose the shores of the
channels hitherto described, it is not always safe to make too free with them
in sailing by; for they are frequently found to jut out a few yards at or a
little below low water mark; and if a vessel should ground on any of those
projecting points about high water, she would, on the falling tide, if heeling
from the shore, be in a very dangerous situation.
To the North of this anchorage before mentioned, the channel continues
between the main land and Hawkesbury Island. The shores are like the
rest described, partly composed of lofty steep mountains rising nearly
430
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
perpendicularly from the sea, and covered from the water side to their
summits with pines and forest trees. It takes an irregular northerly direc-
tion for about 15 miles, when it turns eastward to Point Staniforth, placed by
Vancouver in lat. 53° 54′, long. (corrected) 128° 33′ W.
GARDNER CANAL runs 45 miles in an irregular course to the eastward;
its upper part passing through a country that is almost an entirely barren
waste, nearly destitute of wood and verdure, presenting to the eye one rude
mass of almost naked rocks, rising into lofty mountains, whose towering
summits, seeming to overhang their basis, gives them a tremendous appear-
ance. The whole is covered with perpetual ice and snow, and many water-
falls descend in every direction in the summer.
The North point of Hawkesbury Island is opposite Point Hopkins. Its
South point is Point Cumming, in lat. 53° 18'. It is thus about 33 miles in
length, and from 3 to 11 miles broad. The continent to the westward forms
a point, which extends to about the same latitude as the South point of
Hawkesbury Island, and having one of the numerous arms or canals di-
viding them.
The North point of Gil Isle is opposite Point Cumming, and the South
opening to the inlet last mentioned. There is anchorage at this North point,
it is in a bay on the N.E. part of the island, about 2 miles from its
northern extremity on the western shore of the islet.
anchored in 40 fathoms, stones, shells, and sandy bottom.
it Fisherman Cove. Lat. 53° 18', long. 128° 57′.
Here Vancouver
Vancouver called
There is also anchorage directly to the S.W. of the North point of Gil
Isle, or Ysla de Gil, which was so named by Senr. Caamano, in 1792. It is
about 5 leagues long, North and South, and 5 miles broad; of a moderate
though uneven height. The Isla de la Campania, to the westward of it, has
a conspicuous ridge of mountains, and, when seen from eastward, with a
remarkable peak, nearly in the centre, considerably above the rest.
Nepean Sound is to the northward of these islands, and that of San
Estevan, which is the outermost. The general character of these islands
differs little from that of the surrounding region. To the north-westward
of these lie the extensive islands forming Pitt Archipelago and Banks
Island, separated from the continent by Grenville Canal, and from each
other by the Canal de Principe; the first so named by Vancouver, on his
exploration in 1793, and the latter by Senr. Caamano, who first navi-
gated it.
GRENVILLE CANAL.-The southern entrance to Grenville Canal is
opposite to Fisherman Cove, the North point of Gil Isle. Its direction
is N.W. N., and is nearly straight for 14 miles on this bearing to a
small harbour, or rather cove, on its eastern shore. For 2 miles within it
Mr. Whidbey (July, 1793) found the sea abounding in sea-otters, who
sported about the boats. At this part it is not more than half a mile wide,
GRENVILLE CANAL.
with straight and compact shores on each side.
431
The shores of the arm
beyond this are mountainous on the East or continental side, and low and
rocky on the opposite; both producing pine-trees. From the small cove
mentioned the arm continues in the same direction for 4 miles further, from
an island off the N.W. point of the cove. It then stretches N.N.W. ¦ W.,
about 8 miles to the South point of an opening on the eastern or continental
shore, about a mile wide, its opposite point of entrance lying North. N.W.
3 miles from this is a small cove on the East shore; and 10 miles further,
N.N.W. W. is a bay about a mile wide and 2 deep, in a N.E. direction,
with many islets and sunken rocks on it. The continental shore between
these last is lined with innumerable rocks and islets, nor is the middle of
the channel free from these obstructions. Seven miles to the north-westward
of this, on the opposite or western shore, is an extensive opening, running
to S.S.W., apparently dividing the land.
To the northward of this opening is a high island, about 7 miles long;
and 10 miles North of it is Point Lambert, on the continental shore. To the
N.E. of this point is Port Essington, an extensive sound, surrounded by a
moderately elevated country, particularly on the N.W.; but to the North
and East the view is bounded by lofty barren mountains, covered with per-
petual snow. The entrance to Port Essington is narrowed by a shoal against
Point Lambert, forming a rounding spit, of 3 to 6 feet water. The tide
rushes in furiously.
Opposite to the entrance to Port Essington are some islands, forming the
North side of the opening into Chatham Sound, to one of which the name of
Raspberry Island was given by Vancouver, from the quantity of excellent
raspberries he found here. The passage through is 2 miles long and about
a mile wide between the islands, but mostly occupied by shoals, which con-
tract it to a very narrow channel close to the southern side. To the N.W. of
this channel Chatham Sound is interspersed in most directions with small
islands, rocks, and shoals.
Point Hunt is very conspicuous, and forms the North point of Pitt
Archipelago. It is in lat. 54° 10′, and bears West 3 miles from the above-
mentioned islands. From Point Hunt the shores of the land take an
irregular direction of S.W. W. to Point Pearce, the intermediate space
bounded by innumerable rocks and other impediments. Westward of this
again the shore falls back considerably, forming a deep bay, with several
small openings running south-eastward. Cape Ibbetson is the western point
of this bay, and the N.W. of Pitt Archipelago. It is a very conspicuous
projecting land.
Stephens Island lies to the N.W. of these points, and is about 4 leagues
long. Between Cape Ibbetson and its S.W. point is a cluster of rocky islets
and sunken rocks, which thus lie in the opening seaward of the channel be-
tween Stephens Island and Pitt Archipelago. Northward of Stephens
432
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
Island is an extensive and intricate cluster of islets and rocks, forming a
complete labyrinth to navigators, but on its eastern side is a very commo-
dious anchoring place, in lat. 54° 18′, long. 130° 41′, where Vancouver stayed
in company with three ships in search of furs, &c., under the command of
Mr. Brown. The group extends W.N.W., a league and a half from the
North side of Stephens Island, and occupying a space of 2 miles in width.
To the westward of this group, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles, lies a low
detached rock, with some breakers near it; there are other lurking rocks
lying about the same distance from Stephens Island.
The land, which is separated from the continent by Grenville Canal, and
which we have been describing, although it was not traversed in the extent
of 20 leagues, was still believed to consist of several islands, and therefore
received the name of Pitt Archipelago, after the celebrated statesman.
The CANAL DE PRINCIPE, between the archipelago and Bank Island,
extends from the North point of entrance into Nepean Sound to the North
point of Bank Island, first N.W. N. to the South point of Puerto de Cana-
veral, and thence N.W. by W. W. to its N.W. point, in all about 14
leagues. The southern shore is nearly straight and compact, without sound-
ings; the northern shore is much broken, bounded by many rocks and islets,
and affording soundings in several places.
Port Stephens is 18 miles from the South end of the channel on the
eastern shore. It was so named by Capt. Duncan, in the Princess Royal, in
1788. It is a small opening, the entrance of which is obstructed by many
islets and rocks, presenting no very tempting appearance as a port.
Port de Canaveral (of Senr. Caamano) is also on the eastern shore. Its
entrance, 4 miles wide, seems to be free from obstruction. Off its S.E.
point is a small round island.
CHATHAM SOUND lies between Dundas and Stephens Islands and
the main land. The southern entrances have been before described.
Brown Passage enters the sound between the islands to the North of Ste-
phens Island and Dundas Island. This latter, in a N.N.W. direction, is
15 miles long and 5 broad, East and West. The eastern shores of the
sound are low, and somewhat indented with small bays, and bounded by
a reef of rocks at the distance of a quarter of a mile off shore. The in-
terior country is snowy mountains. The shores and islands in the sound
produce large numbers of pine trees. In the northern part of the sound
are two clusters of rocks with breakers around, one S.S.W. W. 8 miles,
and the southernmost S.W. by S. 10 miles from Point Maskelyne. By
daylight they are easily avoided, but by night or in fogs they must be very
dangerous.
Point Maskelyne, so named after the astronomer, forms the S.E. point of
the entrance to Obvservatory Inlet and Portland Canal. Off it lie two rocky
PORT SIMPSON.
433
islets, and to the South of it a rocky island close to the shore. The opposite
or N.W. point is Point Wales.
Works Canal.-Immediately East of Point Maskelyne is the entrance to
a branch which takes a S.E. direction for 32 miles; its head approaching
within about half a mile of the N.E. part of Port Essington, thus forming
the land into a peninsula. Its S.W. shores are nearly straight and com-
pact; its general width from 1 to 2 miles, excepting near the entrance.
An arm diverges from its N.E. shore, at 23 miles within the entrance, and
trends in a general N.E. direction, but is made into a tortuous channel by
- a remarkably steep, rocky precipice, which at high water becomes an island.
It had formerly been appropriated to the residence of a very numerous tribe
of Indians.
PORT SIMPSON was surveyed by Mr. Inskip and the officers of H.M.S.
Virago, under Captain Prevost, R.N., in 1853. The southern entrance to it
between Finlayson Island and the main is 4 cables wide where narrowest,
and 1½ mile long; it is very deep, but there are some sunken rocks near
the shores. The middle entrance between the South end of Birnie Island
and the North point of Finlayson Island is 1 mile wide, but has a dangerous
middle ground, leaving an entrance on either side of it into the northern or
southern harbours. This middle ground reaches to within 2 cables' lengths
of the peninsula near which the fort stands. There is a rocky channel North
of Birnie Island, and a deep but,,narrow channel between the peninsula and
the tail of the middle bank. The fort stands on the S.E. side of the cove,
on the North side of the neck. The anchorage is in lat. 54° 34′ N., long.
130° 25' W. High water 12h 35m; spring tides rise 21
14 feet.
feet, and neaps
At 3 miles West of the South point of Birnie Island is a reef called the
Pointers.
The Skina River, which is probably the Simpson or Babine River, enters
the S.E. part of Works Canal, at 30 miles from Fort Simpson, and 10 from
Port Essington. The salt water here is of a light blue colour, like that near
the Fraser River.
Coal is found on the banks of the Skina River. It was visited by Mr.
Downie in August, 1859, and may prove to be an important attraction at
some future period.*
* Mr. Downie says: At Kitsagatala (on the Skina River) we entered on a most exten-
sive coal country, the seams being in sight, and cut through by the river, and running up
the banks on both sides, varying in thickness from 3 to 35 feet. The veins are larger on
the East side, and are covered with soft sandstone; on the West side quartz lines the seams,
which are smaller. The veins dip into the bank for a mile along the river, and could
easily be worked by tunnels on the face, or by sinking shafts from behind on the flats, as
they run in soft earth. I have seen no coal like this in all my travels in British Columbia
and Vancouver Island. (See Capt. Mayne, Appendix, p. 451.)
North Pacific.
2 F
434
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
Fort Simpson, one of the Hudson's Bay Company's establishments, was
originally formed at the mouth of the Nass River, but was removed to the
North point of Chimsain peninsula, washed on three sides by Chatham
Sound, Port Essington, and Works Canal. It is the resort of a vast number
of Indians. The anchorage is in lat. 54° 33′ 25", long. 130° 18'.-(Sir Geo.
Simpson, vol. i. p. 207.)
At the mouth of Works Canal, N.E. of Point Maskelyne, is an island
which divides the entrance into two channels. In the rear of this is a short
arm called Nass Bay, and further N.E. is one more extensive.
OBSERVATORY INLET.—The principal inlet runs in a N.E. § N. direc-
tion, and at 21 miles above Points Maskelyne and Wales the Portland Canal
diverges from the principal one at Point Ramsden. Off this point are some
dangerous rocks, only visible at low water, and opposite to it is a deep bay,
with very shallow water all around it, except in the N.E. part, where a branch
enters, bringing down muddy water, which is distinguished flowing down
the principal arm.
Salmon Cove is 20 miles above Point Ramsden, and on the western shore
of Observatory Inlet. It affords good anchorage, and every convenience.
Here Vancouver's vessel remained for some time, in July, 1793; and here
he placed his observatory, from which circumstance the name of the inlet
is derived. A very great abundance of salmon were taken here, up a very
fine run of fresh water that flows into the cove; but they were small,
insipid, of a very inferior kind, partaking in no degree of the flavour of
European salmon.
The lat. of the observatory was deduced as 55° 15′ 34″, long. 131° 3′ 30″;
variation 25° 18′ E., dip. 75° 54. High water at 1h 8m after the moon
passes the meridian, and the tide generally rose about 16 feet.
Beyond Salmon Cove the inlet extends 5 leagues in a North direction,
when the western arm terminates, and the eastern arm extends the same
distance, and forms the mouth of the River Simpson. The head of Observa-
tory Inlet is much indented with small bays and coves, and abounding in
some places with sunken rocks.
PORTLAND CANAL (so named from the noble family of Bentinck)
diverges from Point Ramsden, in a N. by W. W. direction, for about 5
miles; thence it bears in a more northerly direction 5 leagues farther, and
then trends a little to the eastward of North, terminating in low marshy
land, in lat. 55° 45', 70 miles from its entrance in Chatham Sound. The
shores of this inlet are nearly straight, and in general little more than a
mile asunder, composed mostly of high rocky cliffs, covered with pine trees
to a considerable height; but the interior country is a compact body of high
barren mountains, covered with snow. As the surveying party ascended,
salmon in abundance were leaping in all directions.
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
435
The northern shore of the inlet, between Point Wales and Point Rams-
den, is formed by several islands, behind which a channel runs parallel with
the direction of the main inlet. This gradually decreases in width south-
westward, continuing 13 miles from its N.E. entrance to an opening to the
S.E. into the main channel. Pursuing the same direction, it enters much
broken land, intersected by arms, forming an island about 10 miles in
circuit, to the N.E. of which is an arm running in a N.E. direction, ending
in low, steep, rocky shores.
At 7 miles a little to the North of West from Point Wales is the S.W.
extremity of an island, from whence an arm extends in a N. & W. direction,
terminating in a fresh-water brook, in lat. 54° 56′, long. 130° 40′.
4
The Portland Canal, which may be considered to terminate here, is the
boundary between the British possessions and the newly-acquired Alaska
territory of the United States, is only frequented by the Hudson's Bay
Company's officers in their steam-vessel for the purposes of occasional trade
with the natives. The continental shore to the northward belonged to
Russia, and was ceded, by purchase, to the United States in 1867, as de-
tailed in the next chapter. One of the most important features of this
region, as yet but little known and undeveloped, is the extensive archi-
pelago, named Queen Charlotte Islands, which is imperfectly described as
follows.
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
This land was discovered nearly at the same period by the navigators of
two nations. La Pérouse made the outer coast on August 10th, 1786, and
followed it from South to North, for 50 leagues, in the ensuing ten days.
Captain Lowrie, in the Snow, Captain Cook and Captain Guise, in the Ex-
periment, sailed from Nootka on July 27th in the same year, and made the
land in question soon afterwards, though the day itself is not now known.
Thus the honour of discovery belongs to both the English and French. The
name by which it is now known is derived from the vessel in which Captain
Dixon made it in the year following, but only assumed that it was an island
from conjecture, as it was not proved to be such till Captain Douglas, in the
Iphigenia, sailed through the strait which divides it from the continent of
America. It has also been called Washington Island, by Ingraham. Dixon
Channel, which runs in between Queen Charlotte Islands and the Prince of
Wales Archipelago, to the North of it, was discovered, perhaps, by Ensign
Juan Perez, in 1774. It was next seen by Dixon, on July 1st, 1786, though
he himself acknowledges that Captain Douglas was the first who sailed
through it. He then sailed nearly round the island, afterwards repairing to
Nootka. The eastern coast of the island was also examined and traded on
by Captain Duncan, in the Princess Royal, in 1787; after doing so he pro-
2 F 2
436
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
ceeded to the eastward to some other islands, which he named the Princess
Royal Islands (which have been before described), but which have been
supposed to be identical with the archipelago of San Lazaro of De Fonta,
previously considered to be apocryphal. A part of the features of this latter
were examined by Duncan, and he anchored in nineteen of its harbours, not
without being frequently exposed to the danger of losing his vessel, but he
was indemnified by an ample trade in furs.
The outer or western coast only was cursorily examined by Vancouver in
1794, and the North side was sailed along by Captain D. Jacinto Caamano
in 1791. That it consisted of several islands instead of one, as has usually
been considered, was inferred by Dixon, or rather by Beresford, who wrote
part of his voyage in 1787.
Thus our knowledge remained until quite a recent period, although it was
regularly visited by traders. But when the adjacent countries became the
scene of much interest from the discoveries of gold and coal, this group was
also visited with the same object, and in 1853 H.M.S. Virago went around
them, and to Mr. Geo. H. Inskip, R.N., we owe the chief part of the en-
suing nautical description. It was examined in some parts, when gold was
reported,* by Mr. Downie in July, 1859.
A more complete examination of the geology and natural history of the
group was made by Robert Brown, Esq., F.R.G.S., in 1866, and from his
paper to the Royal Geographical Society in 1869, we also have derived some
information.
Climate. Though situated so far North, the climate of the Queen Char-
lotte Islands, from their insular position, is much milder than that of the
mainland. Some men who wintered upon them described the temperature
as being moderate, little snow, and a great deal of rain. Indeed, all North
of Fraser River the climate is very moist. At Sitka it rains almost continu-
ously, the average rainfall amounting to nearly 89 inches per annum. When
I arrived, on 1st of April, all the snow had vanished off the low lands, and
the weather was mild and pleasant. Mosquitoes were abundant, and to-
wards the end of the month humming-birds had begun to make their ap-
pearance.-(R. Brown.)
GENERAL REMARKS.—The following sailing directions for the Queen
Charlotte Islands commence at Cape St. James, their southern extreme, and
from thence proceed along their eastern side, named Dixon Channel; round
Rose Spit, their north-eastern point; along the northern shore through
Parry Channel; and back to Cape St. James, by the Pacific or western side.
The Queen Charlotte Islands consist of three principal islands, together
* There was a tradition that a Sandwich Islander, in the employ of the Hudson's Bay
Company, while skinning a deer sold by an Indian, found that it had been shot with a
nugget of gold.-R. Brown, Esq.
CAPE ST. JAMES-HOUSTON STEWART CHANNEL.
437
with several smaller ones, and are situated between lat. 51° 57′ and 54°
21' N., and long. 131° 11' and 133° 0′ W. The channels separating the
principal islands are, Houston Stewart Channel, running between Prevost
Island (the southernmost), and Moresby Island to the northward of it; and
Skidegate Channel which separates Moresby Island from Graham Island
(the northernmost).
CAPE ST. JAMES.-In approaching Cape St. James from the southward,
the first land that will be seen (if it is clear) is the highest part of Prevost
Island, at the back of Cape St. James. This cape is formed by several islets
and rocks, and as it is reported that a sunken ledge extends nearly 5 miles
off it, precaution is necessary in approaching this part of the coast. With
Cape St. James bearing S. 70° W. about 3 miles, and the outermost rock
above water S. 41° W. Mr. Inskip had 90 fathoms.
Mr. Gray, in the Columbia, informed Vancouver that he had struck and
received some material damage upon a sunken rock, which he represented
as lying at a much greater distance than the above, though nearly in the
same line of direction. The cape was so named by Mr. Dixon from the
common circumstance of the saint's day on which it was first seen.
HOUSTON STEWART CHANNEL.-From Cape St. James the coast
trends nearly N.W. to a well-defined headland, and after rounding it the
eastern entrance to Houston Stewart Channel and Rose Harbour will open
out, the coast between being much broken, with one round thickly wooded
and conspicuous island, and several little islets and rocks along it. At
about 4 miles from the entrance there are 90 fathoms, and the water gra-
dually shoals to 20 fathoms to within a mile of it.
In the eastern entrance to this channel, which is about three-quarters of
a mile wide, there are 20 fathoms water. Within the northern point (For-
syth Point), and on the same side, is a snug bay, bordered by a sandy beach.
A quarter of a mile inside Forsyth Point, and a little to the northward of
the line of direction of the channel, is a rocky patch with kelp, having 1
fathom on it; a vessel therefore should not haul to the northward too soon
after entering. On the southern side are some small wooded islands, here
and there fringed with outlying patches of kelp, which latter should always
be avoided. At a mile and a quarter W.S.W. from Forsyth Point is a rock
(Trevan Rock), lying nearly mid-channel, contracting the passage on its
northern side to rather less than half a mile.
The southern arm of this channel is about 3 miles long, and three-quarters
of a mile wide, with several small islands (the Shangor) at its southern end
or entrance from the Pacific. The shores of both sides are bold and densely
wooded. A vessel coming from the southward, and wishing to go in by
this entrance, when abreast of Cape St. James, should close the land to 1
mile, and follow it along for about 12 miles, which will lead right into it.
By leaving the largest and outer Shangoi Island on the port hand (off the
438
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
southern end of which is an extensive ledge of rocks in a S.W. direction),
the channel will show itself.
Rose Harbour.-The northern arm of Houston Stewart Strait, or Rose
Harbour (which is secure and capacious), runs up in a northerly direction
for 3 miles from its junction with Houston Stewart Channel, and is a con-
tinuation, in nearly a straight line with the last-mentioned portion of it.
The country around this locality is mountainous and thicky wooded; but
the timber is smaller, and less valuable than that in the magnificent forests
of Vancouver Island. The soil is poor, but there are indications of copper
in different places. The sea otter, the fur of which fetches very high prices
in China, are numerous.
About 3 miles to the northward of the eastern entrance to Houston
Stewart Channel, and at about 2 miles off the coast, is a ledge of rocks,
lying a little above water; the sea breaks violently over them, and for a
considerable distance around. From Houston Stewart Channel to Cum-
shewas Harbour on the eastern side, a distance of about 50 miles, the coast
is high, and broken into numerous inlets, with many islets along it, probably
affording good harbours. The dotted line, delineating this side of Queen
Charlotte Islands on Vancouver's chart, is very erroneous.
Cumshewas Harbour lies nearly E.S.E. and W.N.W., and is reported to
be both large and safe. A spit runs off its southern point of entrance
nearly two-thirds of the way across to the northern side, on which the
sea breaks heavily; the channel in being over a bar with 8 fathoms on it.
SKIDEGATE HARBOUR and CHANNEL.-About 20 miles to the N.W.
of Cumshewas is the eastern entrance to Skidegate Harbour and Channel;
the intermediate coast being lower and more level than that to the south-
ward, with an extensive bank along it for some miles before coming to
Skidegate, with as little as 7 fathoms, when 3 to 4 miles off it. The inlet
or entrance to the channel was surveyed by Lieut. Daniel Pander, R.N.,
in 1866.
Skidegate Harbour is very spacious, and communicates with the Pacific at
Cartwright Sound, near Point Buck; the channel, however, is intricate, and
only navigable for canoes a portion of the way through. An extensive spit
extends from the East side or point of entrance (which is low and woody),
in a N.W. direction for about 4 miles, to within 1 mile of Dead-tree Point
(the West point of entrance), having from 1 to 2 fathoms on it at low water.
A rock lies near its outer extreme, just awash at low water, spring tides.
This rock is about 1 mile from Dead-tree Point, but the available passage
between is not more than half a mile in width, as the spit extends beyond
the rock, and the shore near Dead-tree Point is not bold. The point is
called Dead-tree Point, from the number of dead trees upon it.
SKIDEGATE.—The village of Skidegate is situated in the bay, off which
are the village islands, and consists of many houses fronting the beach, all
MASSET HARBOUR.
439
of which are very dirty, and smell strongly of fish. The Indians are a finer
race than the Vancouver islanders, and although very dirty, are much
cleaner in their personal appearance. Some distance from the anchorage,
and on the side of a mountain, are large quantities of coal, of a description
very similar to that discovered at Nanaimo in Vancouver Island.*
The coast between Skidegate and Point Rose is rather low, with dangerous
flats running off it, and should be given a berth of at least 6 or 7 miles.
Cape Ball, nearly 20 miles from Skidegate Bar, is very conspicuous, having
a remarkable white cliff on it, with lower cliffs on either side; it cannot be
mistaken, for there is no other place like it between Skidegate and Point
Rose. Captain McNeil, of the Hudson's Bay Company's service, says, that
he found a rock about 6 miles East of Cape Ball, with only 2 fathoms on it.
Rose or Invisible Point, the north-eastern extreme of Queen Charlotte
Islands, is low, with a spit running off it in a N.E. direction for nearly 5
miles, and is exceedingly dangerous. With the point bearing W.S.W.
about 6 miles, a round-shaped hill, called Macroon, will open out clear of the
land off which Rose Spit runs; it is about 300 or 400 feet high, but shows
out so distinctly as to look almost an island. This part of Dixon Channel,
between the land near Rose Spit and Stephens Island on the continental
side, is about 20 miles wide, with soundings quite across.
The land from Rose Point to Virago Sound is low, and thickly wooded for
some miles from the shore, which has a bank running off it, and should be
approached with caution, with the lead constantly going.
MASSET HARBOUR.-Rather more than 20 miles S. W. S. from Point
Rose is Masset Harbour, the entrance to which is formed by a low point,
with a ledge of rocks half a mile off it covered with kelp, on the western
side; and the point of a long spit (Naiquez) partly dry (the surf usually
breaking the whole length of it) on the eastern, the passage between having
an extensive bar. With the outer western point bearing W. by N. 1 mile,
there are 5 fathoms at low water; from this position the course in is about
S. by E. E., the soundings over the bar varying from 5 to 3 fathoms, for
about 3 miles, to abreast of a village on the western shore, a little more
than a mile from what may be termed the inner or proper entrance to the
harbour; the water then suddenly deepens to 9 and 11 fathoms, the channel
lying in the direction of the eastern point of what has been called the inner
entrance. Just inside, and round this point, is a pretty bay, with a beach,
containing the principal village.
* This was found by Capt. Torrens in 1859, but the party were nearly murdered by the
Indians. It was examined by Mr. Brown in 1866, and he says: On the North side of
Skidegate Bay the tunnel has been driven into the hill in a westerly course, showing the
structure of the beds. This tunnel is 112 feet long. The coal has all the character of an-
thracite, but is altered and metamorphosed by the presence of igneous rock in a remarkable
manner.
410
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
Edensaw, the chief of the neighbouring tribe, and who is a very intelli-
gent and (when it suits him) valuable person to a stranger navigating this
coast, says, that when the Indians wish to go to Skidegate, they pass on to
the head of the harbour in their canoes, and walk across a mountainous
neck of land.
VIRAGO SOUND.-Between Masset and Virago Sound, which lies about
10 miles to the westward, there is good anchorage in some places, in which
a vessel might remain a night, instead of keeping under way, or cruising
about with a south-east wind, and the weather thick. The outer anchorage
of Virago Sound is sheltered from all winds to the southward of East and
West.
The inner harbour of Virago Sound (the native name of which is Naden),
is very capacious, and sheltered from every wind. For about 1 mile outside.
the entrance there are several banks, formed probably by the sand, &c.,
washed down with the ebb, which runs with considerable strength. The
rise and fall of the tide is about 13 ft. The narrowest part of the entrance
is about half a mile wide, with a deep-water channel, which for the first 2
miles is intricate, and should not be attempted until properly sounded. The
western side of one part of the channel, which may be called the narrows, is
completely blocked up by rocks.
Parry Channel, called after the late Sir E. Parry, separates North Island
(which forms the north-western extremity of the Queen Charlotte Islands)
from Graham Island. Ledges of rock run off the southern side for about a
mile, but there is a good and clear channel between them and North Island.
The tide rushes through this channel, and forms a perfect race. On the
South side is Edensaw's Village, from which he intended removing to Virago
Sound. Just within the eastern entrance of Parry Channel, and on the
South side, is a bay with anchorage in it.
On the South side of North Island, in Parry Channel, is a snug cove,
called Henslung. It is reported that whalers occasionally anchor in it. At
the head of the cove is a sandy beach, with a stream of water running down
it. The whole island is thickly wooded.
On the eastern side of North Island there is said to be a very good an-
chorage in a bay which was formerly often used by the vessels belonging to
the old North West company.
Two or three miles to the southward of Parry Channel is an indentation of
the coast, which might be taken as its entrance by a vessel coming from the
southward—a mistake that might lead to serious consequences, as the whole
coast, as far as Point Frederick, appears to contain several open bays, with
outlying rocks off each of them.
HIPPA ISLAND* lies 25 miles further to the southward, and is high and
* This island was so named by Dixon, from its being inhabited by a tribe, who fortified
THE SKIDEGATE CHANNEL.
441
bold to seaward. This portion of the coast is higher and more broken than
the former, the openings appearing deeper, neither does it seem to have so
many rocks lying off it. The Indians show some good harbours towards
Hippa. When abreast of Hippa Island, Point Buck, 30 miles distant, and
also Cape Henry, 10 or 12 miles further on, can be seen, the coast presenting
the same high and broken appearance as the preceding 25 miles. All the
points along this part much resemble Point Buck, which is rather low and
rugged, jutting out from the high land at the back.
This coast of the island, as has been before mentioned, is very uncom-
pletely known; and at a few miles South of Hippa Island Vancouver places
the entrance of Rennell Sound, so named by Dixon, lat. 53° 28′ N. The land
appears much broken, and the coast composed of steep mountainous preci-
pices, divided from each other by water. These gradually increase in height
in coming southward
The SKIDEGATE CHANNEL, separating Graham Island from Moresby
Island, lies in lat. 53° 10′. The eastern entrance has been alluded to on
page 438. It requires much care in entering, as Mr. Brown says that
they knocked the false keel off their schooner in crossing the spit at the
entrance.
Point Buck. This point is on the southern side of the channel (Skidegate
Channel), which leads through to Skidegate, having a large high island,
Chalque, just to the northward of it, and another, much smaller and peaked,
standing out clear of the land, at about 3 or 4 miles further to the north-
ward, lying in Cartwright Sound, which is formed by Point Buck on the
South, and Point Hunter on the North.
PORT KUPER.-Just to the southward of Point Buck, in Englefield Bay,
is an opening, leading into a harbour. This bay has Point Buck on the
North, and Cape Henry on the South, with Kuper Island (Kennedy Island)
in its southern part, having a channel on either side leading into Mitchell
Harbour, known also as Gold Harbour.
Inskip Channel.-The northern, or Inskip Channel, which leads round
the North side of Kuper Island, was first used by H.M.S. Virago, in 1853,
its entrance being a few miles South of Point Buck. It is about 8½ miles
long, and half a mile wide. A little without it, there are some small islands
on either side, but there can be no difficulty in discovering the passage in.
In the channel there is no bottom at 60 fathoms, but at the entrance a cast
was got with 35 fathoms, on a halibut bank. At a short distance inside the
islands, on the port side of the entrance, is a village belonging to the Kil-
themselves precisely in the manner of a hippa (e-pah) of the New Zealanders. It is called
Quequetz by the Indians. Mr. Brown believes that native lead is found in the first inlet
above Hippa Island, at a place called Chatlem.
442
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
kite tribe. Further in, on the same side, and about 3 miles up, is a deep
opening, and where this and Moore Channel meet are two other openings to
harbours, with some small islands lying near them. This channel is no
doubt equally as safe as the other.
Moore Channel, the channel on the South side, is named after Moore, late
master of H.M.S. Thetis, who made a complete survey of both it and Mit-
chell Harbour whilst in that ship, which was sent to protect British interest
in 1852, during the time that a large number of adventurers from California
had collected here to dig and search for gold, some of that metal having been
discovered by the Indians. This channel, which was always used by the
vessels which conveyed these people, is 5 miles long in an E.N.E. and
W.S.W. direction, and half a mile broad, the shore on each side being bold
of approach, high, and covered with trees down nearly to the water's edge.
In mid-channel there is no bottom at 70 fathoms. On the North side, just
without the entrance, are some small rocky islets (Moresby Islands), and on
the South side a few rocks close in shore.
Mitchell or Gold Harbour,* or Skiton, is about 2 miles deep, and half a
mile wide, surrounded by precipitous and densely wooded hills, from 700 to
800 feet in height, and at the head of Thetis Cove is a sandy beach and
stream of water. At 12 mile up the harbour is Sansom Island, a small spot
covered with trees, and the ruins of a number of huts. The anchorage lies
inside this, in Thetis Cove, keeping Sanson Island on the port hand; the
passage being a cable wide, with deep water. This cove is completely land-
locked, but squalls, frequently accompanied by rain, come over the hills with
considerable violence. At upwards of half a mile from the mouth of the
harbour, on the starboard side going in, is the Thorn Rock, with only 3 feet
on it at low water, lying about a cable's length from the shore; and on the
opposite side, not quite at so great a distance from the land, but a little
further out, is another rock. These are dangerous to vessels working in or
out; but if the wind be fair, and a ship is kept mid-channel, there is
nothing to fear.
Douglas Harbour.-At one mile to the westward of Mitchell Harbour,
and on the same side of Moore Channel, is the entrance to Douglas Harbour,
apparently very similar to the former, from which it is separated by Josling
peninsula.
TASSO HARBOUR.-Cape Henry, which lies 3 miles from the entrance to
In 1852, the Hudson's Bay Company despatched a party in the brig Una, to examine
this place for gold, and Mr. Mitchell, who commanded the ship, collected about 1,000 dol-
lars worth of gold, but the Indians stole it as soon as it was blasted, so the expedition broke
up. Again in July, 1859, a party under Mr. Downie attempted to find gold here, but
decided that further search was useless.-See Captain Mayne's British Columbia, pages
186, 187.
TASSO HARBOUR.
443
Moore Channel, terminates in a steep slope, with a hummock at the ex-
tremity; 18 miles to the southward of this is Tasso Harbour, the interme-
diate coast being high and rising abruptly from the sea. Its entrance is
short and narrow, but the harbour itself is extensive, with very deep water
in many places; there is anchorage in it, near some small islands on the
port hand going in; it has only been visited by a few of the Hudson's Bay
Company's officers. Between Tasso and Cape St. James are other openings,
which, according to Indian report, lead into good harbours, the southern-
most of which is that leading into Houston Stewart Channel and Rose
Harbour. Inside the Shangoi Islands, and close to Houston Stewart Chan-
nel, is an opening, called by the natives Louiscoon, and reported to be a
good harbour, not unlike Rose Harbour. This coast is also apparently very
bold, excepting off the Shangoi Islands, and like the previous 18 miles.
The land near Cape St. James has fewer trees on it than that to the
northward.
Natives.-The Indians are very fond of travelling, and make voyages of
several hundred miles in their canoes, visiting the Russian settlement of
Sitka, at the North, and Victoria Harbour on the South.
The possession of slaves is allowed, and there are several of this unfortu-
nate class amongst them; their owners are not held responsible for their
manner of treating them, which is frequently very cruel.
Supplies. Halibut, salmon, herrings, and several other descriptions of fish
abound. Immense flocks of wild geese and ducks at times visit the islands.
Potatoes grow in abundance in most parts, and thrive exceedingly well,
forming an important article of food among the natives. These are all
to be bought either for money, strong cotton shirts, cotton dresses, plain
cotton, knives, tobacco, mother of pearl jacket-buttons for ornamenting
their blankets, or any of the articles commonly bartered among savages.
Tides.-The following brief account of the tides along the North and
north-east coast of the islands is given by a Hudson's Bay Company's
officer.
The course and strength of the tides are not regular, being greatly influ-
enced by the winds. At full and change they are very rapid. Time of high
water about 12h 30m.
The flood, coming from the westward round North Island, sets along the
Masset shore for Browns Passage, spreading about 15 miles round Point
Rose towards Cape Ibbetson, where it meets the flood from the southward,
from Skidegate, Banks Island, and Canal de Principe; consequently between
Point Rose, Cape Ball, Cape Ibbetson, and thence S.E. 4 or 5 leagues, the
tides are very irregular.
The tides between Cape Murray, Point Percy, and Isle de Zayas are the
strongest and most irregular, causing a heavy and confused sea, so much so
that in bad weather it has the appearance of breakers.
444
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
In concluding this account of the coast of the newest of the British colo-
nies, it may be remarked that the wonderful change in its fortunes, and the
sudden acquisition of importance to civilization is almost unparalleled. It is,
therefore, difficult to keep pace with the progress of a country which till so
recent a period was only considered fit to be occupied by the trading posts
for the purchase of furs.
The nautical descriptions are, however, tolerably complete, and this is
also an evidence of the great progress of the times. The singular and
rugged coasts of the region are for the most part most excellently surveyed
and described by Captain Richards in the Vancouver Island Pilot; when that
is wanting the work of Vancouver is our chief guide; and this work has had
but scant justice awarded to its great merit.* Whether the country will
rise to be the home of a great and populous nation is a question which may
fairly left to future controversy.
* Besides the excellent narratives of Captain Mayne and Mr. F. Whymper, which
describe many parts of this coast, "The North-west Passage by Land," by Lord Milton
and Dr. Cheadle, will, with the others, give a good insight into the early condition of the
colonies. "Vancouver Island and British Columbia," by the Rev. Matthew Macfie, F.R.G.S.,
1865; "British Columbia and Vancouver Island," by Duncan G. F. Macdonald, E.C.,
1862; “Vancouver Island and British Columbia," by Alexander Rattray, M.D., 1862;
"Travels in British Columbia," &c., by E. E. Barrett-Lennard, 1862; may be consulted
with much advantage. Mr. Sproat's "Scenes and Studies of Savage Life," are very in-
teresting. As he largely employed native labour at his saw mills at Alberni, in
Barclay Sound, for many years, he had special opportunities for arriving at some re-
markable conclusions. There are numerous detached accounts, among which the Descrip-
tion of Vancouver Island, by Captain W. Colquhoun Grant, F.R.G.S., Journal Roy. Geo.
Soc. 1857, vol xxxvii, pp. 268-320, may be specially noticed.
( 445 )
CHAPTER VIII.
COAST OF ALASKA, FROM PORTLAND CANAL TO THE
KODIAK ARCHIPELAGO.
THE whole of the north-western Coast of America, from the Portland Canal
to the intersection of the 141° meridian with the arctic coast, now belongs to
the United States. The length of this coast has been estimated at 11,270
miles. From the Portland Canal to Mount St. Elias, the highest peak on
the continent, the boundary between this territory and British Columbia is
fixed at a distance of 30 miles from the coast, and from Mount St. Elias the
division is the meridianal line carried northward. The area of this territory
on the mainland is estimated by the United States' Coast Survey officers at
549,500 square statute miles, of the Aleutian Islands included in the territory
5,630 square miles, and of the other islands 22,260 square miles, together
forming a total of 577,390 square statute miles.
As it is well known, this extensive but comparatively useless region was
purchased of the Russian Government by the United States, for the sum of
7,200,000 dollars, in coin, the treaty for the transfer being signed on May
28th, 1867. The sum of 200,000 dollars was added to the amount, for the
purpose of extinguishing the claims of the Russian-American Fur Company,
whose head quarters were at Sitka, and of an ice-company, established in
Kodiac, who had special privileges conceded to them.
The Russian-American Company was established under charter from the
Emperor Paul, July 8th, 1799; and the extensive territory in question was
granted to them to occupy and bring under the dominion of Russia. The
Russian Company and the Hudson's Bay Company were thus brought into
collision, and the latter experienced considerable loss in their endeavours to
prevent this extension of Russian power. But in justice to Russia it must
be said that no country had a better claim to the territory; for as early as
1741, Vitus Behring (a Dane in the employment of Russia), and his com-
panion Tschirikoff, had touched on the continent in the lat of 59° and 56°
446
COAST OF ALASKA.
respectively; the former seeing much of the intervening countries, too, on his
return; and by 1763 many other adventurers had penetrated eastward as far
as Kodiak-and it must be remembered that no other nation claims to have
penetrated further North than lat. 53°. In addition to this, Russia had as
gradually improved her knowledge by possession as these discoveries ad-
vanced, and this, too, not from any jealousy of other powers interfering, as
was the case between Spain, England, and France, to the South. Thus the
settlement at Kodiak was formed four years before our countryman Meares
purchased, or said he did so, his tract of land in Nootka Sound, and Sitka
was founded ten or twelve years before Astoria was.
Notwithstanding this, the Hudson's Bay Company expended considerable
sums in the establishment of trading posts on the large River Stikine in lat.
56° 20′. The Russians resented by force this procedure of the company, al-
though England claimed the privilege of navigating the rivers flowing from
the interior of the continent to the Pacific, across the line of boundary esta-
blished under the treaty of 1825. The British Government required redress
for this infraction of the treaty; and after negotiation between the two go-
vernments and the two chartered companies, it was agreed, in 1839, that
from the 1st June, 1840, the Hudson's Bay Company should enjoy for ten
years the exclusive use of the continent assigned to Russia by Mr. Canning
in 1825, and extending from 54° 40′ N. to Cape Spenser, near 58° W., in
consideration of the annual payment of 2,000 otter skins to the Russian-
American Company. The boundary between the Russian and English pos-
sessions was fixed by the convention agreed to by the respective powers,
February 28th, 1825. The charter of the Russian-American Company,
granted in 1799, was renewed in 1839, when they had thirty-six hunting and
fishing establishments.
Sitka, or New Archangel, founded in 1805, was their chief post. Subor-
dinate to it there is a smaller establishment of a similar kind at Alaska,
which supplies one post in Bristol Bay, and three posts in Cook Inlet, all
connected with minor stations in the interior. Another station in Norton
Sound has its own inland dependencies. The whole of the territory was di-
vided into six agencies, each controlled by the governor-general. The in-
habitants of the Kurile and Aleutian Islands, and those of the large island
of Kodiak, were regarded as the immediate subjects of the Russiam Com-
pany, in whose service every man between 18 and 50 may be required to
pass at least three years. The natives of the country adjacent to Cook
Inlet and Prince William Sound also paid a tax to the company, in furs
and skins. The other aborigines in the Russian territory were not allowed
to trade with any people but those of the Russian Company.
In 1836 the number of Russians in the territory of the company was 730;
of native subjects, 1,442 creoles and about 11,000 aborigines of the Kurile,
Aleutian, and Kodiak Islands.
COAST OF ALASKA.
447
The political troubles in which Russia was involved a few years since, and
the probable unprofitable nature of this, their distant possession, led the way
to the quiet transfer of this immense region.* Under its new masters some
of its resources will most probably be further developed, but the real value
of the territory was the subject of much remark and controversy at the time
of the purchase. So little was really known of Wal-russia that most vague
statements were made respecting it. And as the new regime is of such re-
cent establishment but little can be said here of the social condition of its
inhabitants, or of its value to mankind in general.
The one prominent feature which is of most interest in this work is the
peculiarity of its climate. In the first edition of this work (1850) the great
stream which, like another Atlantic Gulf Stream, passes swiftly along the
Japanese Archipelago, was traced for the first time, step by step, up to these
shores, and the circulatory system of the North Pacific was shown to be ana-
logous to that of the other oceans. Unlike the North Atlantic, the whole of
this eastward drift is carried on to the American coast (as explained in the
special Chapter hereafter), one portion along the Aleutian Islands, the other
towards Vancouver Island and California. The insignificant portion, which
passes through Behring Straits, does not affect the great question. This
immense E.N.E. drift brings to the shores of Alaska an enormous quantity
of water that is warmer than is due to the latitude. The one great result of
this is the wonderful development of animal life, which is the distinguishing
feature of the ocean washing it. It is the greatest fishery in the world. The
accumulated development of ocean-life seems to be drifted on to the coast
and into its intricate fiords, as is the case, but in a minor degree, with the
Atlantic and the great fishing banks of the Loffoten Islands and the Coast of
Norway.
The result of this unbounded supply of ocean-food is that the rivers and
fiords teem with salmon to such an extent, that the quantity seems to be
incredible, were it not for the universal testimony of all who come here. In
the open sea, cod, halibut, and an infinite variety of fish, are to be caught
in unbounded quantities. Upon these fish and mollusca, the sea otter by
land, and the whale in the sea exist, and are, at present, the chief objects
of profit.
The climate of the region, too, is subject entirely to this ocean influence.
The prevalent S. W. winds, blowing over such a wide area of warmer ocean,
brings to the land, and especially near the sea, a vast accumulation of
66
* The history of the negotiation, and the steps which led to it, are exhaustively related
in a speech," by the Hon. Charles Sumner, before Congress, Washington, 1867. This is
comprised in a closely printed pamphlet, of 96 columns! and gives a resumé of the whole
subject as far as was then known.
448
COAST OF ALASKA.
aqueous vapour, which, while it ameliorates the climate, and by its humidity
causes vegetation to be of most gigantic growth, makes the climate of
Alaska to be so moist, that cultivation would seem to be hopeless. The fol-
lowing summary of fourteen years observations at the Imperial Observatory
at Sitka will plainly show this relation of temperature and rainfall.
Temp. Fahr.
Rain. Inches.
Spring (March-May)
Summer (June--August)
41°.3
14.0
54°.3
15.4
Autumn (September-November)
44°.2
30.8
Winter (December-February)
31°.9
22.9
Mean .. 42°.9
Total .. 83.1
The greatest rainfall was 96 inches in 1850; least 58.6 inches in 1861.
The yearly average of days upon which rain, snow, and hail fell, or on
which fog prevailed, for fourteen years, was two hundred and forty-five. These
results are from hourly observations.
At Ounalaska, according to Bishop Benjaminoff, the mean spring tem-
perature was 33°.9, summer 49°.6, autumn 37°.5, winter 30°.1, mean for the
year 37°.8, or 5º.1 below that of Sitka.
The harbour of Sitka and the adjacent harbours never freeze, and the
land ice is unfit for the Californian market, which is supplied from Kodiak.
Here the ice forms from 15 to 25 inches each year, so that it is not thicker
than that of Boston, U.S., although it is 900 geographical miles further
North! a wonderful evidence of ocean climate. Of the whaling grounds we
will briefly speak in the next Chapter. Of its forests, its coral fields and
gold regions, we need not say anything-all these matters are yet in their
infancy.
*
The population of the territory, as reported by the military commander to
be, 2,000 whites and 60,000 half breeds and Indians; but this latter estimate
must be very crude Sitka is the port of entry. The military force (1868)
consisted of infantry and artillery, sufficient to garrison six military posts.
The laws of the United States relating to customs, commerce, and naviga-
tion, and the establishment of a collection district at Alaska, were extended
to the territory by the Act No. 125 of the Second Session of the 40th Con-
gress, passed July 27th, 1868. By the same Act the killing of fur-bearing
animals is prohibited, except under regulations prescribed by the Secretary
* When the representatives of the Federal Government went to Sitka to receive the
transfer of the territory, a body of scientific men accompanied them, and the result of some
of their investigations, as given by Professor Davidson, is given in the proceedings of the
California Academy of Natural Sciences, San Francisco, 1867.
THE KOLOSCHENSK ARCHIPELAGO-TONGASS.
419
of the U.S. Treasury. By order of General Halleck, Aug. 13, 1868, the
military district is attached to California.
The character of the country, and its trade, &c., will be gathered from the
previous remarks and the subsequent descriptions. These are not always
perfect. A portion of the interior sounds were explored and surveyed by
Vancouver, doubtless with his usual accuracy, but of course this occurred be-
fore it was colonized by the Russian Company. A Russian chart was pub-
lished in 1853, which gave many additional details, especially of the western
face of the Sitka Archipelago, which was re-surveyed by them.
The KOLOSCHENSK ARCHIPELAGO of the Russians, is the extensive
group of islands which lie between the entrance of the Portland Canal, the
boundary of the Territory, and the northern part of the Sitka Islands. Its
main features were well delineated by Vancouver's survey in 1792, but in
many parts, especially of that which has become the principal part, the
Sitka Group, the cursory examination he made is somewhat defective. The
Russian officers have made us better acquainted with it, and the King
George III. Archipelago of our illustrious navigator is now separated into
four or more large islands. The Russian designation is derived from the
Indian tribes who inhabit them. These Koloschians, or Kaloshes, have been
known in British Columbia as Stikines, and they speak the same language,
or at least a dialect of it, as the natives of Vancouver Island and the adjacent
continent. Their number is assumed as from 12,000 to 15,000, and they are
separated into several families or tribes. Although very much has been
done by the Russians in bringing them into a better condition than the
primitive savages they were, they must not be trusted.
The PORTLAND CANAL, forming the boundary, has been described
before, pages 434-435. Cape Fox forms the N.W point of the approaches
to it.
TONGASS, the southernmost of the new military posts established by the
United States on their new territory, is on a small island, one of the Wales
Island group, which form the North side of the entrance to the Portland
Canal, at 10 miles E. by N. from Cape Fox, in about lat. 54° 42′ N., long.
130° 29′ W., and opposite to Fort Simpson, which is distant only 4 or 5
miles to the S.E. The fort, which is garrisoned by one company, is of the
usual description, and the primeval forest has had to be cleared for the pur-
pose of forming the post. Fish, as everywhere besides, is most abundant.
The Tongass Indians, a small tribe of about 500 people, inhabited these
islands.
A rock, marked on the chart as the Pointers, lies in the entrance of the
Portland Inlet, at 3 miles West from the South point of Birnie Island, at
the entrance to Port Simpson.
From Cape Fox the coast takes a rounding direction N.W. by W. 4 miles,
North Pacific.
2 G
450
COAST OF ALASKA.
and then N. by W. W. near 7 miles further, to a projecting point called
Foggy Cape, the coast being very rocky and dangerous.
North of Foggy Cape is a large bay filled with a labyrinth of small islands,
rocks, and shoals, the north-westernmost and largest being N. by W. § W.
nearly a league distant. Cape Fox on the East, and Cape Northumberland
on the West, bearing E. by S. and W. by N. 5 leagues apart, form the
southern entrance to the Canal de Revilla Gigedo of Caamano, hereafter
noticed.
14
1
2
Four miles to the northward of the island above mentioned is the entrance
to the Boca de Quadra, which is almost rendered inaccessible by islets and
rocks. The inlet first takes a direction of N.E. E., to a point 7 miles within
the entrance, whence the shores become less elevated, and the inlet takes a
S.S.E. direction for 5 miles, and then N.N.E. E. for 41 leagues to its head,
in lat. 55° 9′, a small border of low land, through which flow two rivulets.
The sides of this canal are nearly straight, firm, and compact, composed of
high, steep, rocky cliffs, covered with wood. Near the entrance, in the
Revilla Gigedo Canal, is an islet called by Vancouver Slate Islet, a prodigious
mass of this stone differing from any other about here. N. W. 4 miles
from this is Point Sykes, and N.W. W. 5 miles, is Point Alava, between
which points is the entrance to Behm Canal.
BEHM CANAL, so named after Major Behm, is one of those extensive
and singular arms which abound on this forbidding and inhospitable coast.
It runs northward for 55 miles, then westwardly and southwardly, encircling
the large island of Revilla Gigedo, and this is separated on the S.W. by the
strait of the same name from Gravina Island.
From Point Sykes, the S.E. point of the entrance, the South shore runs
N.E. & N. 10 miles to Point Nelson, the inlet being from 2 to 4 miles wide.
Eastward of Point Nelson an inlet takes an East and N.E. direction for 10
miles, terminating in the usual manner. The surrounding country consists
of a huge mass of steep, barren, rocky mountains, destitute of soil, the
summits covered with perpetual snow. The shores are nearly perpendicular
cliffs rising from the water's edge. The N.E. point of this inlet is Point
Trollope, 4 miles from Point Nelson. Northward of Point Trollope are two
long narrow islands on the East side, forming a narrow channel 7 miles
long inside of them. Off the N.W. point of the northernmost of these,
bearing N.N.W. nearly a league distant, is a very remarkable rock, named
by Vancouver the New Eddystone, from its resemblance to the celebrated
lighthouse and rock. Its circumference at its base is about 50 yards, stand-
ing perpendicularly on a surface of fine dark-coloured sand. Its surface is un-
even, and its diameter regularly decreases to a few feet at its apex. Its
height was found to be above 250 feet, lat. 55° 29′.
On the East shore of the canal, a league above the New Eddystone, is an
unimportant arm, 2 leagues in depth. The coast beyond this is straight and
PORT STEWART.
451
compact, trending N. W. 9 miles to Walker Cove, an inlet extending 2
leagues E.N.E.. The main inlet extends in a N.W. by N. direction from
Walker Cove. The water is of a very light colour, not very salt, and the
interior country, on the Island of Revilla Gigedo, rises into rugged mountains,
little inferior in height to those on the eastern side. Proceeding northward,
the canal takes a more westerly direction to Fitzgibbon Point on the East
side, in lat. 55° 56′; and the opposite point on the island is called Point
Whaley.
Burrough Bay extends N.E. from Point Fitzgibbon about 2 leagues, where
it is terminated by low land, through which three or four small rivulets ap-
pear to flow over a bank of mud stretching from the head of the arm, and
reaching from side to side, on which was lodged a quantity of drift wood.
When Vancouver was here, August 11th, 1793, he found the water perfectly
fresh, and the whole surface of the bay strewed over with salmon, either
dead or in the last stages of existence. They were all small, of one sort,
and called by him hunchbacked salmon, from a sort of excrescence rising
along the backs of the male fish. In all parts of the inlet, particularly in
the arms, and in every run of fresh water, vast numbers of these fish were
seen, but all in a sickly condition. If any just conclusion could be drawn
from the immense numbers found dead, not only in the water, but lodged on
the shores below high water mark, it would seem that their death takes
place immediately after spawning, for the purpose of which they ascend these
inlets.
From the mouth of Burrough Bay, the main inlet takes an irregular S.W.
W. direction, to a point on the North shore, 4 miles from Point Whaley,
named Point Lees. Beyond Point Lees the North shore of the principal
channel is formed by Bell Island, which is about 2 leagues long in a N.E.
and S.W. direction.
The point on the South shore, beyond the West point of Bell Island, is in
lat. 55° 50′, long. 130° 41′ (Vancouver, vol. ii, p. 357); and here the channel
turns sharp to the South, and widens in that direction. On the opposite side
of the canal is an inlet extending in a N.W. W. direction, for about 4
miles. South of this inlet is a large bay, terminating in a sandy beach
nearly all round. The interior country is not very high, particularly west-
ward, where a low wooded country extends as far as the eye can reach.
Port Stewart, named after one of the mates of Vancouver's ship, is
to the southward of this. Its South point of entrance is in lat. 55° 38′ 15″
N., long. 131° 47′ W.; variation, 28° 30′ E. (1793). Here Vancouver re-
mained with his vessel in August and September, 1793. He found it a small
but convenient bay, secured by several islets before it, from the wind in
all directions.
It is formed, as before stated, by a bay in the land, having several islets
and rocks lying before it; within these, from the South point of its entrance,
2 G 2
452
COAST OF ALASKA.
it takes a course of N.N.W. W., about half a league in length and three-
quarters of a mile in breadth. In this space it affords good and secure
anchorage, from 4 to 18 fathoms water, good holding ground. Towards its
head are two very snug coves or basins, one of which is a continuation of the
port, the other formed by an indent in the land. The best passage into Port
Stewart is between the southernmost isle and the main land; this is perfectly
free from any obstruction, with soundings from 4 fathoms at the side to 11
fathoms in the middle.
The eastern shore of the canal, southward of the point where it assumes a
southerly direction, is much broken and intersected with arms; and opposite
to Port Stewart is a cove near which Vancouver was attacked by Indians,
in which two of his men were severely wounded; hence he called it Traitor's
Cove, and a point to the South on which he landed, in lat. 55° 37', Escape
Point.
Cape Caamano is the South point of the peninsula, dividing the arm
from Clarence Strait. It is in lat. 55° 29′, long. 131° 54′. It was so called
after the Spanish commander who first delineated (though imperfectly) these
shores.
On the opposite side of the channel, the westernmost point of the island
of Revilla Gigedo, is called Point Higgins, after the then president of Chile,
Senr. Higgins de Vallenar, and this latter name is applied to the North
point of the Island Gravina, S. W. 2 miles from Point Higgins. From
Point Vallenar lies a ledge of rocks, parts of which are only visible at low
tide. Beaton Island lies to the northward of Point Higgins, against the
eastern coast.
3
The CANAL REVILLA GIGEDO, of Señor Caamano, separates, as before
stated, the Island, or rather Islands, of Gravina from the island of its name
and the main land. It runs south-westward from between Points Higgins
and Vallenar to between Foggy and Northumberland Capes, described pre-
viously. A sunken rock is marked on the eastern side of its southern entrance.
It was not explored by Vancouver.
DUKE of CLARENCE STRAIT separates the Prince of Wales Archipe-
lago on the West from the islands we have been describing on the South, and
from the Duke of York and other islands northward, and is probably the
opening distinguished in Caamano's chart as the "Estrecho del Almirante
Fuentes, y Entrada de Nostra Senr. del Carmin.”
Cape Northumberland is the southernmost point of the Gravina Islands.
Off Cape Northumberland are several clusters of rocks, the bearings of the
principal of which, from a tolerably high round island lying South from the
cape, are as follow: the outermost to the N.W., N.W. by W., 3½ miles;
the south-westernmost, W.S.W. 4 miles; the southernmost, which are the
most distant, South, 6½ miles; and the south-easternmost, S.E. E. 5 miles
distant; within some of these the intermediate spaces are occupied by an
POINTS PERCY AND DAVISON.
453
immense number of rocks and breakers. The southernmost is a round lump
of barren rock, always above water. On the chart two other reefs are
marked, the positions of which are doubtful. The one is called the Devil's
Ridge, and bears 13 miles South of Cape Northumberland; the other is 15
miles to S.S.W. of the same cape.
3
4
Point Percy lies N.W. by W. & W. 9 miles from Cape Northumberland.
It is the western extremity of a long, narrow cluster of low islands, extend-
ing about 5 miles in an E.N.E. direction, nearly uniting to the eastern
shore, which is much broken North and South of them. Between this point
and Cape Northumberland are several clusters of dangerous rocks, lying in
all directions, a considerable distance from shore.
Point Davison bears N. E. 4 miles from Point Percy, and is in lat. 55° 0.
The coast then runs North towards an opening about 2 miles wide, appear-
ing to divide Gravina Island. In it are innumerable rocks and rocky
islets. Northward of this the shores trend N.N.W. 5 miles, and then about
N. by W. 6 leagues to Point Vallenar. The shores of the Gravina Islands
are of moderate height, and covered with wood.
The southern entrance to the Duke of Clarence Strait lies, as before stated,
between Cape Northumberland on the East, and Cape de Chacon on the
West. This latter cape is the S.W. point of the Prince of Wales Archi-
pelago, and bears W.S.W. from the former, 8 or 9 leagues off, lat. 54° 43′,
long. 131° 56'.
The first considerable opening on the western shore of the strait, North
of Cape de Chacon, is Moira Sound. It takes a south-westerly direction.
From this sound the western shore takes a direction nearly North, and
forms some bays; the largest of these, situated in lat. 55° 8', has, in and
before it, several smaller islets; the outermost is by far the largest; and as
it in many points of view resembled a wedge, it was called Wedge Island; off
its South point lies a ledge of dangerous rocks. Nine miles North of Wedge
Island is a projecting point, in lat. 55° 16', and to the West of this is Chol-
mondeley Sound, which extends to the southward, divided into several branches.
A small island lies to the N.W. of the entrance. Point Grindall bears from
Cape Caamano S.W. by W. 4 or 5 miles distant, with some rocks and
breakers extending about a mile from it.
On the eastern side of the entrance to Cholmondeley Sound is, or was, a
Russian settlement, Chasintzeff.
3
From Cape Caamano to Point Le Mesurier the coast first bears N.W. by
W. near 2 leagues, and then N.N.W. Point Le Mesurier projects from the
main land to the westward, and has some islets and rocks extending about a
mile from it. Opposite to Point Le Mesurier is Point Onslow, N.N.W. & W.
5½ miles distant, and between these points is the entrance of an inlet, nearly
as extensive as the one it enters, named Prince Ernest Sound (after the Duke
of Cumberland, afterwards King of Hanover). Point Onslow is the
4
454
COAST OF ALASKA.
South extreme of the island or islands forming the Duke of York Archi-
pelago.
The continental shore from Point Le Mesurier trends N.N.E. E. for
about 4 leagues, indented with bays. The opposite shores then incline more
to the eastward from this point; and to the northward of it is the South
point of an island extending N.N.W. W. 5 miles; but it allows a tolerably
good channel inside it. N. by W. 4 W. from the bay within the island, 2
leagues, brings you to Point Warde, in lat. 56° 9′. The western shore is
irregular in its direction, and much broken; opposite the island it is 6 miles
across. From Point Warde the coast takes a sharp turn N.E. by E. † E. 4
miles, to a point where the channel divides into two branches; the eastern-
most extends eastward about 3 leagues, terminating in the usual way, and
named Bradfield Canal. The main branch extends in a N.N.W. direction, 3
leagues to a point in lat. 56° 20'. Here it again divides into two branches;
the main channel, before which lie several rocks and small islets, is not more
than a quarter of a mile wide, extending irregularly to the N.W. and S.W.,
forming a passage about a league long to Point Madan, stretching to the
N.N.W. W. In this direction it proceeds about 16 miles to a very con-
spicuous point, in lat. 56° 34', named Point Highfield, where the channel again
appears to divide into two branches to the N.N.W. and W. It is the
northernmost point of Wrangel Island.
Etoline Harbour is on the western side of the North end of Wrangel
Island, 3 miles South of Highfield Point, lat. 56° 31′ N., long. 132° 20′ W.
WRANGEL, one of the six military posts of the United States, is pleasantly
situated in the bight of Etoline Harbour. The scenery around is very fine.
The buildings erected are most substantial, and there is a large Indian vil-
lage in the immediate vicinity.
The apparent opening to the northward of Point Highfield is entirely.
closed by a shoal extending across it from Point. Rothsay on the East or con-
tinental shore, and Point Blaquiere on the opposite side, on the edge of which
ure only 6 and 9 feet water. To the South of this shoal, and in its immediate
vicinity, are four small islands and two or three islets; one of the former
upon the shoal, and the others at the distance of 1½ league from Point High-
field, extend to the West and S.W. of it. This shoal is very steep-to, and,
by its connection with the adjoining land, it may be said to make the latter
form a portion of the continent.
The RIVER STIKINE, or Stachine, or Pelly River, enters this part of
the inland navigation, and has formed the shoal above mentioned, which
thus closes its entrance, but it is probable that local enterprise and know-
ledge will show a useful channel into it. When over the bar it can be
ascended for more than 30 miles by a steamer.
Fort Stikine, near the mouth of the river, was originally founded by the
Russian-American Company, and in 1842 was transferred to the Hudson's
THE RIVER STIKINE
455
Bay Company, on a lease of 10 years. The establishment, of which the site had
not been well selected, was situated on a peninsula barely large enough for
the necessary buildings; while the tide, by overflowing the isthmus at high
water, rendered any artificial extension of the premises almost impracticable;
and the slime that was periodically deposited by the receding sea was aided by
the putridity and filth of the native villages in the neighbourhood in oppressing
the atmosphere with a most nauseous perfume. The harbour, moreover, was
so narrow, that a vessel of 100 tons, instead of swinging at anchor, was under
the necessity of mooring stem and stern; and the supply of fresh water was
brought by a wooden aqueduct, which the savages might at any time destroy,
from a stream about 200 yards distant.
The North shore of the principal arm leading from the mouth of the Sti-
kine River now takes a direction of S.W. S. for 14 miles to Point Howe.
The shores are indented with small bays, with some small islets; the oppo-
site, or South shore, is about a league distant; and, to the westward of Point
Craig, lying from Point Hood S.E. by E. 2 leagues, the shore appears firm and
compact; to the E. of it, it is much broken and divided. From Point Howe the
shore rounds in a westerly direction to Point Alexander. This point is the
easternmost of the entrance to Duncan Canal, which stretches irregularly
North and N.W. to its termination in a shallow bay, bounded to the North
by a low sandy flat, in lat. 56° 58'. Point Mitchell forms the S.W. point of
the canal, and is opposite the opening of the southern branch of the Duke of
Clarence Strait, the description of which we will resume from the point where
Prince Ernest Sound diverges from it.
3
Point Onslow, as before mentioned, is the North point of the entrance of
Prince Ernest Sound; and, from this to Point Stanhope, the next projection
on the eastern shore of the channel, the distance is 15 miles. The coast then
extends N. W., about 10 miles, to Point Harrington. Three miles and a
half southward of Point Harrington is a small island, on the North side of
which is tolerable anchorage, close under the shores of Etoline Island, in
Steamer Bay.
Point Nesbitt, the South point of Zarembo Island, is in lat. 56° 15', and
bears from Point Harrington N.W. about 2 leagues, the interval forming the
opening to Stachinski Inlet bearing to the N.E., towards the entrance of the
Stachine or Stikine River. Off Point Harrington, and nearly in mid-chan-
nel, is a cluster of low rocks; and also off Point Nesbitt, extending south-
ward from the point, is a ledge. These seem very dangerous, as most of
them are only visible at low water.
Bushy Island, which lies in the channel to the northward of Point Nes-
bitt, is about 2 miles long, having from its shores, on both sides, some de-
tached rocks, but admitting between it and the eastern shore a navigable
channel, extending northward to between Point Macnamara on the East, and
Point Colpoys on the West; this bears West, 1 league from the former.
456
COAST OF ALASKA.
Here the channel enters from the north-eastward, as before described, and
bears to the westward and S.S.W. to the ocean. Point Mitchell, the S.W.
point of Kuprianoff Island, on the S.W. side of the entrance to Duncan
Canal, is the point on the North shore opposite to Point Colpoys, and is 8
miles distant. The northern shore of this branch of the strait extends a
little to the southward of West to Point Barrie, a distance of 18 miles. In
that space are innumerable rocks; and nearly midway between the two
points there is a large bay.
The southern shore, which forms the North.coast of the Prince of Wales
Archipelago, and the distance between Point Colpoys and Point Baker, its
East and West extreme, is 17 miles. Just to the south-westward of Point
Baker is an excellent harbour, Port Protection, which was a haven which
afforded Vancouver an asylum when he little expected it, amidst impending
dangers, in September, 1793.
PORT PROTECTION will be most readily found by attending to the fol-
lowing directions. It is situated at the N.W. extremity of the Prince of
Wales Archipelago; its southern extreme comprises the base of a very re-
markable barren peaked mountain, named Mount Calder. This is conspicuous
in many points of view. Point Baker, in lat. 56° 20′ 30″, long. 133° 33′, on
an islet close to the shore, forms the N.E. point of entrance, from whence the
opposite point lies S.S.W. W. three-quarters of a mile distant; the channel
is good, and free to enter, yet there is one lurking rock, visible only at low
tide, lying in a direction from Point Baker S. by E. E. 3 cables' lengths
distant; it is clear all round.
4
The harbour takes a general direction from its entrance S.E. by S. 1 S.
for 2 miles, and its navigable extent is from 5 to 3 cables' lengths in width,
beyond which it terminates in small shallow coves. The depth is rather irre-
gular, from 30 to 50 fathoms. The tides appear to be irregular, but
come from the South, and it is high water 7h 40m after the moon passes the
meridian.
Points Baker and Barrie form, as before stated, the western extremes of
the branch of the Duke of Clarence Strait, which trends East and West.
Westward of this the strait takes a southerly direction to the Pacific, and
the western shore of this portion is formed by the southern end of an island
called Kou Island by the Russians, which is singularly intersected by deep
bays and inlets, and the shores of which are bestrewed with innumerable
rocks, with a narrow channel separating it from the main, so full of rocks
aud dangers that it certainly is not navigable.
The western shore of the strait bears from Point Barrie in a West
direction, but between is Conclusion Island, about 3 miles long, N.W.
and S.E. Between Point Baker and Conclusion Island, distant from the
former 4 miles, is a smaller island, low, and about a mile long North
and South, with a ledge of very dangerous rocks extending from its South
CAPE DECISION.
457
point. From hence the coast takes an irregular direction about S. by E.
to a point in lat. 56° 17', forming the N.E. point of entrance into Port
Beauclerc.
Port Beauclerc is of easy access and egress, free from every obstruction
but such as are sufficiently evident to be avoided. The opposite point of
entrance lies West 2 miles distant; it extends N.W. 43 miles, and S.W. 2
miles, from the points of entrance. The surrounding shores are in general
moderately elevated, and well covered with wood.
Point Amelius lies S.E. by S. S. about a league from the entrance of
Port Beauclerc, and South of it the coast forms a bay about a league to the
westward, and thence it takes a more southerly direction, about 7 miles, to
Point St. Albans, which is a low rocky point, in lat. 56° 7', long. 133° 55'.
Off this portion of the coast, islets, rocks, and breakers extend about a
league.
Affleck Canal extends to the N. by W. 15 miles, immediately to the
westward of Point St. Albans. Its eastern shore has rocks off it for the first
league and a half, and then becomes straight and compact to its termination
in some low land, through which flow some streams of fresh water. The
eastern sides of the canal are mountainous, but not so steep. The western
side is moderately elevated.
CAPE DECISION, the South extreme of Kou Island, is a very conspicuous
promontory, extending in a South direction into the ocean, in lat. 56° 2′,
long. 134° 3'. Southward of the cape are some islands; the largest, Corona-
tion Island, is about 7 leagues in circuit. From the N.E. point of this island,
which bears S. by E. 4 miles from Cape Decision, is a range of rocky islets.
extending to the North, within half a league from the main land.
Cape Pole is the promontory on the western shore of the Prince of Wales
Archipelago, which forms, with Cape Decision, the entrance to the Duke of
Clarence Strait. They bear W. by S. S., and E. by N. & N., 11 miles
asunder. Off Cape Pole is Warren Island; it is high, and between it and
the cape many lurking rocks were observed. To the southward of it also
are three clusters of very dangerous rocks, the first lying from its S.W. point
S. by E. E. 3 miles distant; the second, South, 6 miles, and a small
islet lying from them S.E. at half a league distant; and the third cluster lies
off the S.E. point of the island, which from its N.W. point lies S.E. E. 4
miles, from whence those rocks lie in a direction S.E. by S. 4 S. about 4 miles
distant. Nearly in mid-channel, between Warren and Coronation Islands,
there was no bottom at 120 fathoms.
Although the navigation of Clarence Strait may be free from danger, yet
it ought not to be used without much circumspection, as several rocks are
marked on the Russian chart.
From Cape Pole the western shore of the Archipelago trends very irregu-
larly to the S.E., and at 6 or 7 miles from the cape is the entrance to Sachine
458
COAST OF ALASKA.
Strait, a narrow channel which, running in the same direction for more than
15 miles, insulates what was thought to be the main land of the chief island,
and terminates in Tonock Bay. The outer coast then trends to the South for
20 miles to Cape Addington.
Cape Addington, which appears to be the next most remarkable promon-
tory to the South of Cape Pole, was so named by Vancouver, after the
Speaker of the House of Commons. It is very conspicuous, and is in lat.
55° 27′, long. 133° 48′.
Port Bucareli, a very extensive inland sea, lies at the back of and to the
southward of Cape Addington. It was discovered by Ayala and Quadra, the
two Spanish navigators. They anchored here on August 16th, 1775, and
named it Puerto del Baylio Bucareli, in honour of the Mexican viceroy. It
seems also to be the same as Sea Otter Sound of Meares. It is formed by
several islands. They here took possession, in the name of his Catholic
Majesty, of all the country they saw, and all they did not see.
nate La Pérouse also explored it.
The unfortu-
Cape San Bartolom is the S.W. point of the entrance of this inland sea,
and is in lat. 55° 12′, long. 133° 36′, and is the South extremity of a long,
narrow peninsula, extending in a southerly direction, with some islets off it;
it is probably the Cape Barnett of Meares.
The entrance lies between Cape San Bartolom and the West coast of
Suemez Island, 3 miles apart. There is anchorage in a bay on the N.W.
side of Suemez Island, at 8 miles within the entrance. To the N.E. of this
it opens out into a large bay, with many islands. On the N.E. side of this
bay is a settlement, called Kliavakhan, and to the S.E. it leads to Tlevack
Strait, which enters the N.W. part of Cordova Bay.
From Suemez Island the S.W. coast of the Archipelago extends to the
S.E. for 25 miles to Port Bazan, which is separated into two arms by an
island. The anchorage is in the southern arm. Cape Muzon, the S.W.
point of the Archipelago, is 12 miles to the E.S.E., and to the East of this
cape is the entrance to Kaigan Harbour. To the eastward of this, at the
South end of the island, is the extensive bay called Port Cordova in the
Spanish charts, and is the Port Meares of that commander.
The Rasa Isle, or the Wolf Rock, lying off the mouth of Port Bucareli, is
one of the most dangerous impediments to navigation on the exterior coast,
and from these circumstances it obtained from Vancouver its latter name. It
is a very low, flat, rocky islet, surrounded by rocks and breakers that extend
some distance from it: it lies 14 miles S. 21° E. from Cape St. Bartolom, 12
miles from the nearest point of the contiguous shore, and 3 leagues N. 11°
E. from San Carlos Island. It was seen by the Spaniards in 1775, who
called it Rasa, or low. By Captain Douglas it was called Forrester Island
in 1786.
San Carlos is a small high island; its South point is in lat. 54° 48', long.
CHRISTIAN AND PRINCE FREDERICK SOUNDS.
459
133° 32'. The channel between it and the Wolf Rock appears to be free
from interruption. It was discovered by Ayala and Quadra, in August, 1775,
and by them named San Carlos Island. It is called Douglas Island by Meares
and others, and Forrester Island by Vancouver, but its real name must be that
first applied by the Spaniards. It is very high, covered with verdure, and
visible 16 or 17 leagues off.
We now return to the northward.
Between Cape Decision and Cape Ommaney, which latter is in lat. 56° 10′,
long. 134° 33', and 16 miles distant from the former, is Christian Sound,
and this forms the southern entrance to a very extensive inland navigation,
extending in a remarkably straight direction to the N.W. through upwards
of 3° of latitude, separating a series of large islands from the continent of
America. The principal of these are Chatham Strait, leading immediately
from Christian Sound to the northward; Prince Frederick Sound, diverging
eastward from it; and Stephens Passage, which branches northward out
of the latter. These principal arms insulate the Sitka Islands (or King
George the Third Archipelago), Admiralty Island, and numerous subordi-
nate islands, which will be described in due order, commencing with the
continental shores.
CHRISTIAN SOUND is the passage between Cape Ommaney and Cape
Decision. It is noticed again hereafter. From Cape Decision the coast
trends N.N.W. W. 3 leagues, and then N. by W. the same distance, to the
North point of Port Malmesbury. This is about 2 leagues deep N.E. and then
S.S.E., and has some islets and rocks on it; notwithstanding which it affords
very excellent shelter in from 17 to 34 and 12 fathoms water, and is conve-
niently situated towards the ocean. The North point, called Point Harris or
Garns, is rendered very remarkable by its being a projecting point, on which
is a single hill, appearing from many points of view like an island, with an
islet and some rocks extending near a mile to the S.W. of it. Seven miles
further northward is the. South point of a large bay full of innumerable
islets and rocks. Its N.W. point of entrance, Point Ellis, is in lat. 56° 31′,
long. 134° 15′. Point Sullivan, which is the next point in the main inlet to
the northward, is in lat. 56° 38', and East of this, also, is an inlet full of
rocks and islets. From Point Sullivan the shores to the northward are less
rocky, taking a direction of N. W. 13 miles, to Point Kingsmill, which is
conspicuous.
3
Point Kingsmill is the S.W. point of Prince Frederick Sound, the opposite
point of entrance being Point Gardner, the S.W. extreme of Admiralty
Island. This sound extends to the N. E. and East.
PRINCE FREDERICK SOUND.-From Point Kingsmill to Point Corn-
wallis the bearing and distance are N.E. † E. 6 miles, the space between
being occupied by two bays, each taking a south-easterly direction. To the
eastward of Point Cornwallis is Kiku Strait, the West shore of which trends
460
COAST OF ALASKA.
first E.S.E. 9 miles, and then S.S.E. E. for 7 miles further. From this
Port Camden, an inlet about half a league wide, runs in a S.S.W. direction,
8 miles, to within 2 miles of the head of the inlet N.E. of Point Ellis, pre-
viously mentioned The shores of Port Camden are pretty free from islets
and rocks, but those to the N.W. of it are lined with them, and render the
approaching of it extremely dangerous, and its southern extension is per-
fectly unnavigable for shipping.
The peninsula of Kou Island, which is connected with the more eastern
land by the last-mentioned narrow isthmus, is by no means so high or
mountainous as the land composing the adjacent countries on the opposite
or north-eastern side of the sound, which at no great distance consists of
very lofty, rugged, dreary, barren mountains, covered with ice and snow.
Point Macartney forms the N.E. point of Kiku Strait.
It is a large,
rounding, though not lofty promontory, in which are several small open bays,
and near it several detached rocks. From hence the shore of Kuprianoff
Island trends N. by E. E. about a league, where the width of the sound is
about 7 miles across in a N.W. direction, to Point Nepean. From this
station N.N.E. E. 4 miles distant, lies a small island with patches of
rock, from this point reaching nearly to its shores.
The promontory still takes a rounding direction about E.N.E. 5 miles
further, from whence the southern shore of the sound extends E. by S. S.
22 miles, to the West point of a Peresonaia Creek, the only opening in the
shore from Point Macartney. The cove extends S.E. by S. about a league,
forming a narrow isthmus, 2 miles across, from the head of Duncan Canal
(p. 455), another striking instance of the extraordinary insular state of this
region.
Point Gardner, as before mentioned, is the S.W. extreme of Admiralty
Island, and forms the N.W. point of the entrance to Prince Frederick Sound.
Off it, in a S.S.E. direction, lie some rocks and a small island, Yasha; the
former at the distance of three-quarters of a mile, and the latter at that
of 3 miles. The coast hence rounds irregularly to Point Townsend, a distance
of 9 miles; off the projecting points are some rocks. Six and a half miles
E.N.E. from this is Point Nepean, situated in lat. 57° 10′, long. 134° 3.' It
is a high, steep, bluff, rocky point, and off it lies a ledge of rocks about half a
mile. At 3 miles to the North of it on the eastern side is Woewodski Har-
bour. From this the coast takes a more northerly direction, or N.E. † N.
10 miles, to Point Pybus; the coast between is much indented with small
bays, and vast numbers of islets and rocks both above and beneath the
water. It is in general but moderately elevated; and although it is com-
posed of a rocky substance, produces a very fine forest, chiefly of pine.
Northward of this is a large channel, called Stephens Passage. Prince
Frederick Sound continues to the eastward and south-eastward.
Cape Fanshaw, which is the point of the mainland opposite, and forming
STEPHENS PASSAGE.
461
the angle at which the two channels diverge, is low and projecting, but very
conspicuous; in lat. 57° 11', long. 133° 25'. The branch is here 8 miles
wide, and its northern shore takes a course E.S.E., 16 miles, to a low, nar-
row point of land 2 miles long, and half a mile broad, stretching to the
South, called Point Vandeput. Here the breadth of the branch decreases to
3 miles in a South direction, to a steep bluff point; from this part the
branch takes a more southerly course. South of Point Vandeput a shoal
extends about a mile, and on its East side a small bay is formed, from
whence the eastern shore trends S.E. by S. 7 miles to another point, off which
a shoal extends about three-fourths of a mile. The shore here is a small
extent of flat land, lying immediately before the lofty mountains, which rise
abruptly to a great height immediately behind the border. A few miles to the
South of this margin the mountains extended to the water-side, when a part
of them presented an uncommonly awful appearance, rising with an in-
clination towards the water to a vast height, loaded with an immense quantity
of ice and snow, and overhanging their base, which seemed insufficient to
bear the ponderous fabric it sustained, and rendered the view of the passage
beneath it horribly magnificent. (Vancouver, vol. iii. pp. 282-3.)
At a short distance to the South of this the head of the inlet appears
closed by a beach extending all round the head of it. At high water this
becomes a shallow bank, with an island on it, being the delta of the Stikine
River. At high water it is covered, and by means of this channel, an inland
navigation for canoes and boats is found from the southern extremity of Ad-
miralty Inlet, in lat. 47° 3′, to the North extremity of Lynn Canal, in lat.
59° 12′, long. 135° 37′. The southern end of the shallow portion of Prince
Frederick Sound enters the arm of the Duke of Clarence Strait between
Point Blaquiere and Rothsay, described on page 454.*
STEPHENS PASSAGE, which is over 95 miles in length, opens into
Prince Frederick Sound, between Point Pybus and Cape Fanshaw, which
are 16 miles asunder; but it should be remembered that its north-western
end is rocky, intricate, and very dangerous for shipping in the entrance into
Lynn Canal, as hereafter shown.
N. by E. 6 miles from Cape Fanshaw is Port Houghton. The South point
of the harbour is Point Walpole, near which are some islets and sunken rocks.
Its North point is Point Hobart, N. by W. a league from the other, and from
which extends a bank of sand, a little distance from the shore, but leaving a
clear passage between it and the islets into the port. It extends E.S.E. 5 or 6
miles, and is bounded by lofty mountains, forming the shores of a snug
harbour, with soundings of 10 to 6 fathoms a considerable distance from the
* Prince Frederick Sound was so named by Vancouver after the late Duke of York,
on whose birthday his three years' survey of this desolate coast was here brought to a
conclusion.
462
COAST OF ALASKA.
shore, sand and muddy bottom. From Point Hobart to Point Windham the
bearing and distance are N.N.W. W. 12 miles. Opposite to Point Wind-
ham is Point Hugh, or Admiralty Island, and here perhaps it may be consi-
dered that Stephens Passage more properly begins.
Beyond Point Hugh is Point Gambier, bearing S.S.W. W. 5 miles from
it; and this latter is N.E. N. 3 miles from Point Pybus, previously men-
tioned. Between the two former points is the entrance to Seymour Canal,
which extends into the island, N.W. by N. 29 miles from Point Hugh to its
head, in lat. 57° 51'. At its entrance it is from 2 to 3 miles wide, which
gradually increases towards its head to 2 leagues. At its termination is a
small brook of fresh water. The adjacent country is moderately high, and
covered with timber of large growth, excepting towards Point Hugh, which
is a lofty rocky promontory, from whence extends a ledge of rocks, on which
the sea breaks with considerable force.
This point forms the South extreme of a long, narrow peninsula, dividing
Seymour Canal from Stephens Passage. The S.W. coast of this passage,
which is here about 5 miles in breadth, is nearly straight, compact, and free
from rocks or other interruptions up to a high round island lying in the
middle of the channel, in lat. 58° 1′, from which the western shore extends
N. by W. 8 miles to Point Arden, where the branch divides into three arms,
the principal one directed to the westward.
The eastern shore of the passage, up to this part, is composed of a com-
pact range of stupendous mountains, chiefly barren, and covered with ice
and snow, but affording some inlets. From Point Windham, on the South,
to Point Astley, 13 miles to the North, the shores are very rocky. The
latter is the South point of a deep bay, about 4 miles wide, named Holkham
Bay. From Point Coke, its North point, in a direction S.W. S. 2½ miles
are two small rocky islets, nearly in the middle of the branch; and the
eastern shore trends from it N.W. W. 9 or 10 miles to Point Anmer, the
South point of Port Snettisham.
Port Snettisham first extends about a league from its entrance in a N.E.
direction, where on each side the shores form an extensive cove, terminated
by a sandy beach, with a fine stream of fresh water. On the N.W. side of
the entrance (Point Styleman), which is in lat. 57° 53', long. 133° 49′, is a
small cove, on which there is also a run of water, with an islet lying before
it. The shores are high and steep, and produce very few trees.
Taco, formerly an Hudson's Bay Company's establishment, formed in 1841,
in Port Snettisham, is on a little harbour almost land-locked by mountains,
being partially exposed only to the S.E. One of the hills, near the fort,
terminates in the form of a canoe, which serves as a barometer. A shroud
of fog indicates rain; but the clear vision of the canoe itself is
weather.
sign of fair
Tako Arm.-Opposite to Point Arden, on the West shore, is the mouth
THE RIVER TACO.
463
of the arm leading to the N.E. from Stephens Passage. Its West point of
entrance is Point Salisbury, and it extends about N. by E. 13 miles, when
the shores spread to East and West, and form a basin about a league broad
and 2 leagues across, N.W. and S.E., with a small island lying nearly at its
N.E. extremity. From the shores of this basin a compact body of ice ex-
tended some distance nearly all round at the time of Vancouver's visit; and
the adjacent region is composed of a closely united continuation of the lofty
range of frozen mountains, exhibiting as dreary and inhospitable an aspect
as the imagination can possibly suggest. The rise and fall of tide here were
very considerable, appearing to be upwards of 18 feet.
The River Taco or Tako, falling into the gulf to which it gives its name
according to Mr. Douglas, who ascended it about 35 miles, pursues a ser-
pentine course between stupendous mountains, which, with the exception of
a few points of alluvial soil, rise abruptly from the water's edge. In
spite of the rapidity of the current, the savages of the coast ascend it 100
miles in canoes. The tribes who live on the coast between this and Port
Houghton are known as the Sundowns and Takos, and are treacherous and
mostly hostile, numbering about 500.
From Point Arden the principal inlet takes a general course of W. & N.,
and is about a league in width. About 5 leagues along the South shore is
Point Young, forming the East point of a cove. Here the width of the arm
is decreased to half a league, and the South shore stretches N.W. 1 N. 7
miles to another cove with an islet lying near it. North from this cove 1½
league distant, is the West point of Douglas Island, so named after the then
Bishop of Salisbury, and forms the North side of this portion of the passage.
It is about 20 miles long, and 6 broad in the middle, and separated from
the continent by a narrow channel. To the N.W. of this part is a rocky and
intricate portion of the passage, very dangerous for the navigation of ship-
ping, so that the communication between it and the large channel to the
North and West of it is impeded.
The channel beyond the N.W. point of Douglas Island is divided into
two branches by a very narrow island about 4½ miles long, and half a mile
broad. The passage on its N.E. side may be considered as next to impassa-
ble for shipping, by the rocks and islets at the S.E. end of it. The other
channel is equally unsafe and intricate, from the same cause.
Opposite the North end of the above island is Point Retreat, the northern-
most point of Admiralty Island; it is in lat. 58° 24′, long. 134° 59′. About
a league southward from Point Retreat, in the southern channel, is a deep
cove, Barlow Cove, which, with the narrow island lying before it, forms a
very snug harbour, of good access by the passage round to the North of Point
Retreat, as the rocky part of the channel lies to the S.E. of it. To the West
of Point Retreat and Admiralty Island is that extensive branch named by
464
COAST OF ALASKA.
Vancouver after the nobleman, Chatham Strait, to the South opening of
which we will now return.
CHATHAM STRAIT.-Cape Decision, the S.E. point of entrance, has
been before described. It was so named by Vancouver, from his having so
far decided that the great openings stated to exist by De Fonte, De Fuca,
and others, did not exist-a conclusion he was scarcely warranted in making,
inasmuch as a more careful attention to their narratives show some truth,
although much alloyed with the fabulous.
The other point of entrance is Cape Ommaney, the South extremity of
the Sitka Archipelago; it was so named by Captain Colnett. Off it lies a
rock called Wooden Rock, from one of Vancouver's men having been drowned
here,
The opening between Capes Ommaney and Decision was named by Col-
nett Christian Sound, and off the opening is a group of small rocky islets, a
league in extent, called the Hazy Islands. They lie S. 3 E. 16 leagues from
Cape Ommaney, S.W. by W. W. from Cape Decision, and 3 leagues
West from Coronation Island, which is the nearest land to them.
The eastern shore of the strait, from its southern point to the entrance of
Prince Frederick Sound, has been before described (p. 459). Point Gardner,
the North point of its entrance, is also the southern extremity of Admiralty
Island.
Hood Bay. From Gardner Point the eastern shore of the strait runs about
N. 2 W. 22 miles to Hood Bay, which is about 1 league across to Point
Samuel, and has some islands nearly in its centre. At 2 miles eastward of
Point Samuel, on the North shore of Hood Bay, is the entrance to an exten-
sive inlet, which runs in a N.E. direction for 20 miles, nearly to the head
of Seymour Channel, and thus separating Admiralty Island into two pe-
ninsulas.
KOUTZNOU or Kushnou, an Indian settlement on the South point of the
entrance to this strait, is in about lat. 57° 30′ N., long. 134° 32′ W. It is one
of the military posts established by the United States. The tribe of Indians
which give it the name are (or were) about 800 in number, and had a bad
reputation.
3
4
Point Parker is 9 miles N. 2 W. from Point Samuel. The coast is in-
dented into several small bays; the shores are low, and much divided by
water. Beyond this, still following the same direction for 30 miles, is Point
Marsden. The land is very moderately elevated, covered with fine timber,
chiefly pine, and terminating at the water-side with alternate steep rocky
cliffs and small sandy bays. Hence to Point Retreat, which is the North
extremity of Admiralty Island before mentioned, the distance is about 16
miles, the coast being nearly in the same direction and of the same character
as that more to the South.
ADMIRALTY ISLAND.-The shores of Admiralty Island, which have
LYNN CANAL.
465
thus been described, are about 60 leagues in circuit. With the exception of
its N.W. and S.E. parts, they are very bold, affording many convenient
bays likely to admit of safe anchorage, with fine streams of fresh water
flowing into them, and presenting an aspect very different from that of the
adjacent continent, as the island in general is moderately elevated, and pro-
duces an uninterrupted forest of very fine timber trees, chiefly of the pine
tribe; whilst the shores of the continent, bounded by a continuation of
those lofty frozen mountains which extend south-eastward from Mount
Fairweather, rise abruptly from the water-side, covered with perpetual
snow, whilst their sides are broken into deep ravines or valleys, filled with
immense mountains of ice; notwithstanding that the island seems to be
composed of a rocky substance covered with little soil, and that chiefly con-
sisting of vegetables in an imperfect state of decay, yet it produces timber
which was considered by Mr. Whidbey to be superior to any he had before.
noticed on this side of America. The ocean hereabouts, too, encroaches
most rapidly on the low land. The stumps of trees, in various stages of de-
cay, still standing erect, are to be found below high-water mark, and many
of the low shores, now covered with the sea, produced, at no very distant
period, tall and stately timber.
LYNN CANAL.—In lat. 58° 35′ a point projects from the West shore of
Lynn Canal, which bears N.N.W. from Point Retreat and N. by W. from
Point Couverden, the extremity of a peninsula separating the canal from
Chatham Strait. Both sides of the arm are bounded by lofty, stupendous
mountains, covered with perpetual ice and snow, whilst the shores in the
neighbourhood appear to be composed of cliffs of very fine slate, interspersed
with beaches of paving-stone. The channel continues to be about 5 miles
wide, and the western shore straight and compact. In lat. 58° 54′ is a small
islet about 2 miles from the West shore. Another islet lies to the North,
between it and the South point of an island 5 miles long and 1 broad, lying
along the western shore, and forming a channel about a mile wide, having
at its southern entrance shoals that extend nearly from side to side. Beyond
this the arm diverges into two branches, the West one terminating in its
navigable part in lat. 59° 12′. At its head, according to Lisiansky's chart, is
the native village of Chilhat. There are some islets and rocks in mid-
channel, and above these the water is perfectly fresh. Above the shoal
limiting the navigation the arm extends half a league, and through a small
opening a rapid stream of fresh water rushes over the shoal. The eastern
side of this portion of the arm is low and indented into small bays and coves,
extending S.E. † S. 41 leagues to Seduction Point. This peninsula is a nar-
row strip of low land 1 or 2 miles across, separating the western from the
eastern arm, which extends N. by W. W. about 11 miles, and thence winds
in a westerly direction about 3 miles further, where it terminates in low
land, formed immediately at the foot of high stupendous mountains, broken
North Pacific.
2 H
466
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
into deep gulleys, and loaded with perpetual ice and snow. The eastern
shore of the inlet trends in a compact manner to Point St. Mary, in lat.
58° 43', forming the North point of a bay called Berner Bay, about 4 miles
across in a S.S.E. direction, and about 5 miles deep to the N.N.E. From
its South part, Point Bridget, the continental shore takes a direction S.S.E.
E., and at 18 miles lies a small island, with some rocks and islets about
it. Beyond this navigation is difficult, even for boats, being incommoded
with numberless islets and rocks.
Lynn Canal was first made known and surveyed by Vancouver's party,
under Mr. Whidbey, in July, 1794, and was named by the commander after
his native town in Norfolk.
It receives a river, which the Indians ascend about 50 miles to a valley
running towards Mount Fairweather, and containing a large lake, which
pours its waters into the open ocean at Admiralty Bay. The natives of this
valley are called the Copper Indians, from the abundance of virgin copper
in the neighbourhood.
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
The land forming this collection of islands, named by Vancouver King
George III. Archipelago, was first discovered by Alexoi Tschirikow, the
second in command of the expedition under the unfortunate Behring, in
1741. This was their third voyage, and they were separated by a storm
soon after they had set out on their voyage. Tschirikow directed his course
to the East, from the parallel of 48°, and, towards the middle of July, made
the land of America, between the fifty-fifth and fifty-sixth parallels; but
others place his landfall in 58°. The coast which he found was steep, bar-
ren, guarded by rocks, and without a single island that could afford shelter.
He anchored off the coast, and detached his long-boat, with orders to put on
shore wherever she could land. Several days elapsed without her reappear-
ing; he despatched his other boat to gain tidings of her, but the latter no
doubt experienced the same fate as the former, and it is unknown what be-
came of either. Some canoes, manned by native Americans, presented
themselves a few days after, to reconnoitre the ship; but they durst not
approach her, and there remained on board no boat of any sort that could
be detached to join or pursue them, and prevail on them to come to the
ship, where they would have been detained for hostages. Tschirikow,
despairing to see again the men whom he had sent on shore, resolved to
quit the coast, and accordingly returned to Kamtschatka. These discoveries
became known to France and Europe from the fact of Delisle de la Croyére,
one of the brothers of the French savans, and Dr. Steller, the naturalist,
having accompanied Tschirikow. Such was the first authentic discovery of
North-West America, which arose out of the original, plans projected by
BARANOFF ISLAND, ETC.
467
Peter the Great, and subsequently carried into effect by the Empress Catha-
rine. It has since been called the Sitka Archipelago, from the tribe of
Indians who inhabit it.
The land in question, like Vancouver Island and others to the southward,
was then supposed to form part of the American continent; and it was not
until Vancouver's expedition that Chatham Strait was discovered, and thus
showed the real nature of the land on the Pacific. Vancouver, too, as will
be seen from the preceding remarks, did not very minutely examine the
western shore of the strait to which he gave the name of his vessel, but
just inferred that it was penetrated by one or more channels leading to the
open ocean, from the fact of some of the natives being found in the strait
who belonged to the other side of the islands.
Capt. Urey Lisiansky, of the Russian navy, examined the group in 1805,
and, by his survey, it appears that it consists of four principal islands, viz.,
Jaccobi, Kruzoff or Crooze, Baranoff, and Chichagoff.
Although Vancouver examined the channels to the eastward of it, and the
Russians have surveyed, partially, the western coast of the chief island, yet
our acquaintance with its physical characteristics is still very limited.
BARANOFF ISLAND is the southernmost, and is about 85 miles in
length, by about 20 miles on its maximum breadth. On its West side is
Sitka or Norfolk Sound, the principal place of resort in these seas, and the
situation of the head-quarters of the Imperial Russian Company.
KRUZOFF or Crooze Island, the South extremity of which is formed
by Cape and Mount Edgcumbe, lies before Sitka Sound. It was named so
by Captain Lisiansky, after the Russian Admiral. It is separated from
Baranoff Island by Neva Channel. It is 18 miles in length. At its North
extreme is the Klokacheva Sound, or the Bay of Islands, but which leads to
the strait, separating the two principal islands of the group, called by Lisi-
ansky Pagoobnoy or Pernicious Strait. It joins Chatham Sound, is deep, and
derives its name from a party of Aleutians having been poisoned there some
years previously by eating mussels. Crooze Island is called Pitt Island in
La Pérouse's and some other early charts.
CHICHAGOFF ISLAND is the next and northernmost large island. It
is divided from Baranoff Island by the strait previously mentioned, and ex-
tends from it to Cross Sound, which separates it from the continent to the
northward.
Jacobi Island, the fourth of those described by Lisiansky, lies at the
N.W. extremity of Chichagoff Island. The passage separating them was
not explored by Lisiansky.
CAPE OMMANEY, in lat. 56° 9′, long. 134° 34', is the South extreme of
the archipelago; off it lies Wooden Rock. They have been alluded to before
on page 464, as forming the S.W. entrance point of Chatham Strait.
Port Conclusion.-Two leagues N. by E. E. from Cape Ommaney, on
2 H 2
468
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
the eastern coast of Baranoff Island, is the southern point of the entrance to
Port Conclusion, so called because it was here that Vancouver's vessels
awaited the conclusion of the survey of this coast in August, 1794, having
left England on the 1st of April, 1791, for that service. The North point of
Port Conclusion bears from the southern N. 2 W. 2 miles distant. The
depth of water in mid-channel, between these points, is 75 fathoms, but de-
creases to 8 or 10 close to the shores, without rocks or sands. S.S.W. about
half a mile from the North point of entrance is a most excellent and snug
basin, Port Armstrong, about a mile long, and a third of a mile wide; but
its entrance is by a very narrow channel, half a mile in length, in a W.S.W.
direction.
The western shore of Chatham Strait was not minutely surveyed by Van-
couver's party. It follows a nearly straight direction from Port Conclusion,
about N. by W. for 105 miles to Point Augusta, in lat. 58° 31', long. 135°,
preserving a nearly parallel direction to the opposite side, which varies from
5 to 9 miles distant.
This extensive arm, as far as was ascertained, is without danger, and
probably affords many places of refuge. The flood tide, although of short
duration, not running more than two hours, was regularly observed to come
from the South.* To the northward of Point Augusta the western shore
diverges more to the westward, while the eastern side beyond Port Marsden
still preserves the same direction. Into the opening thus formed a peninsula
of the mainland projects to the southward, thus dividing it into two channels,
the principal being to the N.W., while that which continues on in a North
or West course is called Lynn Canal.
Point Couverden, the South extremity of the above peninsula, is in lat.
58° 12′, long. 135° 4'. It was so named after the seat of Vancouver's ances-
tors in Holland. The continental shore in this neighbourhood constitutes a
narrow border of low land, well wooded with stately trees, chiefly of the
pine tribe, behind which extends a continuation of the lofty snowy mountains.
About 2 miles North of Point Couverden is one small island and three rocky
islets, one of which lies nearly in mid-channel. Beyond this the western
shore of the arm is firm and compact, indented with a few coves, and some
islets and rocks lying near it. The eastern shore, described on page 465,
presents a broken appearance.
From Point Couverden the continental shore takes a somewhat irregular
* Mr. Whidbey considered that Chatham Strait was likely to be one of the most profit-
able places for procuring the skins of the sea-otter on the whole coast, not only from the
abundance observed in the possession of the natives, but from the immense numbers of
these animals seen about the shores in all directions. Here the sea-otters were in such
plenty that it was easily in the power of the natives to procure as many as they chose to
be at the trouble of taking. They were also of extremely fine quality.-(Vancouver, vol.
iii. p. 264.)
CAPE SPENCER.
469
direction, N.W. W. 7 leagues, to a part of which lies a low and nearly
round island, about 2 leagues in circuit. About a league to the eastward of
it lie some islets. To the North and West of this the shores of the continent
form two large open bays, terminated by compact, solid mountains of ice or
glaciers, rising perpendicularly from the water's edge, and bounded to the
North by a continuation of the united lofty frozen mountains that extend
eastward from Mount Fairweather. An island lies W. & S. from the low
round island above mentioned, distant from it 3 leagues. This island is
about 7 miles long, N.E. and S.W., and 3 miles broad. On its North
side is a channel 2 to 3 miles wide, between it and the continental shore.
The N.W. point of this channel is Point Dundas, in lat. 58° 21′, long.
135° 55'.
To the westward of this point is a branch extending to the North and
N.W. At about 2 leagues up it the channel is nearly stopped by shoals,
rocky islets, and rocks, 4 miles beyond which it is finally closed, being in
most places greatly encumbered with ice. The entrance, which is about 2
miles wide between Points Dundas and Wimbledon, has, in mid-channel,
only 18 fathoms water. About the entrance the soundings are regular, of
a moderate depth, and afford good and secure anchorage; but in the summer
season (or in July) vessels would be much inconvenienced by the immense
quantities of floating ice.
CAPE SPENCER, the North point of the entrance of Cross Sound, on the
Pacific Ocean, is a very conspicuous, high, bluff promontory. Off it extend
some rocks for about half a league. It is in lat. 58° 14′, long. 136° 35′, and
bears from Point Wimbledon S.W. 2 W., distant 11 miles.
The southern shore of this portion of the strait is of a more broken cha-
racter than the northern. We have described it as far as Point Augusta,
lying opposite to Points Marsden and Couverden. From this to Point Sophia
is N. by W. W. 17 miles; the coast composed chiefly of rocky cliffs, with
islets and detached rocks lying at some distance from the shore. The latter
point is at the N.E. of the entrance of Port Frederick, the entrance of which
is about a league wide, East and West, winding to the southward, and ap-
parently much divided by water. From the West side of this sound the
shore takes a more northerly direction, with some islets near it, to a point
which is the North extreme of King George Archipelago, in lat. 58° 18'.
Hence the coast takes an irregular course, W. by S. 17 miles, to Point
Lavinia, containing many open bays. On the opposite shore of the sound is
Point Wimbledon, just mentioned, bearing N. by W. 6 miles from it. Between
these points is a group of one low and two high rocky islands, with some
rocks and islets about them.
Port Althorp is to the westward of Point Lavinia, which extends 11 miles
to the southward of it. Its South point of entrance is Point Lucan. From
Point Lucan, in a direction about N.W., lies a narrow, high island, about
470
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
•
2 miles in length; and between its S.E. point and Point Lucan there are
two small islets, which render that passage not so commodious for sailing in
and out of the port as that to the North of the island, between it and the
western part of a cluster of three small islands, which extend about 2 miles
from the eastern side of the port. This channel is clear, free from danger,
and is about 1 mile in width, with a tolerably snug cove, in which Van-
couver anchored, just within its N. W. point of entrance. The high narrow
island affords great protection to the northern part of this port, which,
opposite to that island, is about 2 miles wide; but nearly in the middle of
the harbour, and opposite the South point of the island, are some detached
rocks; and at Point Lucan, which is situated from Vancouver's ships' cove,
S.S.E. 4 miles distant, the width of the harbour is 2 miles, from whence
it extends S.E. S. about 2 leagues, and terminates in a basin that affords
good and secure anchorage, the best passage into which is on the eastern
shore.
CROSS SOUND was discovered by Captain Cook, in his last voyage, on
Sunday, May 3rd, 1778, and was named by him from the day marked in
the calendar. Its existence was denied by some after its original discovery,
but the survey of it proves that Cook's description is much more accurate
than from the transitory, distant view he had of it might have been reason-
ably expected. Its eastern limits may be placed at Points Lavina and
Wimbledon, which have been previously described. From seaward it ap-
pears to branch into many openings. Its southern shore, from Point Lucan
to Point Bingham, which is opposite to Cape Spencer, trends S.W. by W.
W. 10 miles. Between these points an opening takes a S.E. by S. direction
for some distance. Point Bingham, which lies S. by E. E. 10 miles from
Cape Spencer, affords a bold entrance into the sound, without rock, shoal,
or any permanent obstacle. The group of rocky islands noticed as existing
to the South of Pt. Wimbledon, form a kind of termination to Cross Sound,
and almost separate the ocean from Chatham Strait, to the eastward of it;
but on either side of these islands there are two narrow channels, both of
which are free from rocks, shoals, or any other impediment, excepting the
large masses of floating ice, which render them very dangerous in the sum-
mer season, and in the winter they are most probably entirely closed or im-
passable.
The unfortunate La Pérouse touched on this part of the coast, previous to
his departure for the West, in 1786. He makes the following remarks upon
it:
At Cross Sound the high mountains covered with snow terminate, the
peaks of which are 8,000 or 9,000 ft. high. The country bordering on the sea,
S.E. of Cross Sound, although elevated 5,000 or 6,000 feet, is covered with
trees to the summit, and the chain of primitive mountains seems to penetrate
further into the continent. Mount Crillon, almost as elevated as Mount
CAPE CROSS.
471
Fairweather, is to the North of Cross Sound, in the same way that Mount
Fairweather is to the North of the Baie des Français; they will serve to
point out the ports they are near to. The one may be readily mistaken for
the other, in coming from the South, if the latitude should not be correct
within 15'. Otherwise, from all points, Mount Fairweather appears accom-
panied by two mountains, less elevated; and Mount Crillon, more isolated,
has its peak inclined towards the South.
CAPE CROSS, which was considered by Cook as forming the S.E. point
of entrance to the sound, is not precisely so, but lies about 7 miles South of
Point Bingham, which forms the true S.E. point. The interior part is a low
rocky land, free from any danger.
From Cape Cross the coast takes a direction of S. 31° E., about 7 leagues,
to another promontory, to which Vancouver gave the name of Cape Edward,
and off which lies a cluster of small islets and rocks. The coast between
these capes is much broken, and has several openings in it that appear likely
to afford shelter. That which appeared to Vancouver to be the easiest of
access lies about 2 leagues to the northward of Cape Edward, and as it is in
lat. 57° 44′, he was led to conclude that this opening was Portlock Harbour.
Portlock Harbour.-About 2 miles from the shore to the N.W. of it,
we had 20 and 25 fathoms water, muddy bottom, and just within the entrance
were some high barren rocks. On getting into the entrance of the passage,
which is about a mile across, we deepened the water to 30 fathoms, sandy
bottom, the barren rocks just mentioned (and Hogan Island) forming the
South side; the northern side is Hill Island, low land. About half a mile
within the barren rocks we had 30 fathoms over a rocky bottom, which depth
and bottom we carried at least a mile further, steering N.E. by E., which is
nearly the course into the harbour. Presently afterwards we shoaled the
water to 10 fathoms, being then in the narrowest part of the channel, hav-
ing to the North some bold rocks, and to the South a bluff point of land; to
the East of which, a small distance from shore, are some rocks which just
show themselves above water. Immediately on passing these rocks we
deepened the water very quickly to 30 and 40 fathoms, and a most spacious
and excellent harbour opened itself to our view, bending to the N.W. and
S.E., and running deep into the northward, with a number of small islands
scattered about. We ran up towards the N.W. part of the harbour, and
after passing a small island near the North shore covered with trees, we
anchored in 31 fathoms, mud, entirely land-locked; the rocks lying in the
inner part of the passage, just shut in with the small island already men-
tioned, and bearing South 3 or 4 miles distant.-Portlock, p. 257-8.
Goulding Harbour is a branch of Portlock Harbour, extending from its
N.W. part. It runs in a zig-zag direction, between North and N.E., about
5 miles to the head of it from the island on the entrance, with trees scattered
about in various parts.
472
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
From Cape Edward the coast takes a direction about S. 30° E. to a very
conspicuous opening, named by Capt. Cook the Bay of Islands. He rightly
ɔonsidered that it was the entrance to a channel which separated the land,
on which Mount Edgcumbe is situated, from the adjacent shores. It is
also the entrance to the channel separating the two principal islands of the
Sitka Archipelago. The names given by Cook and others are now forgotten,
and the Russian charts of 1848 and 1853 give Russian names to all the
points. We are unable to give any directions for them; the charts must
supply all information for the present.
CAPE EDGCUMBE, the S.W. point of Kruzoff Island, the Cabo del
Engano of the Spanish charts of Maurelle, is low land, covered with trees,
which projects considerably into the sea, lat. 57° 2′, long. 135° 46'.
Mount Edgcumbe, which stands on the South end of the island, inland of
the cape of the same name, is the Mount San Jacinto of the Spanish charts.
It was estimated by Lisiansky, who ascended it, to be about 8,000 feet in
height; on the last Russian chart it is said to be only 2,800 feet, a re-
markable difference. The side toward the sea is steep, and was covered
with snow (in July, 1805); that towards the bay (to the southward) is
smooth, and of gradual ascent, and overgrown with woods to within 1 mile
of the top. This upper space exhibits a few patches of verdure, but is in
general covered with stones of different colours. On the summit is a basin,
or crater, about 2 miles in circumference, and 40 fathoms deep, the surface
covered with snow.
SITKA SOUND.--The name is that of the natives, who call themselves
Sitka-hans. It is probably the same as that called by the Spaniards, Baya
de Guadalupa. It is also called Tchinkitânay Bay by Marchand and other
authors. The name of Norfolk Sound was applied to it by Dixon, whose in-
dustry first made known its real character; he anchored, probably, in the
first cove round Cape Edgcumbe, and did not penetrate to the eastward, to
where the present Russian establishment is. The charts and descriptions of
this period are so imperfect that they would probably rather tend to mislead
than instruct.
A bold, enterprising man, of the name of Baranoff, long superintended
the company's establishment. Although the conquest of the Sitkans (Sitka-
hans), a branch of the Kaloschians or Kalushes, was not easily achieved, he
finally accomplished it. A warlike, courageous, and cruel race, provided
with fire-arms by the ships of the North American United States in exchange
for otter-skins, they maintained an obstinate struggle against the invaders.
But Baranoff at length obtained a decisive superiority over them. He built
some dwelling-houses, made an intrenchment, and having, in his own opinion,
appeased the Kalushes by profuse presents, confided the new conquest to a
small number of Russians and Aleutians. For a short time matters went
on prosperously, when suddenly the garrison left by Baranoff, believing itself
SITKA OR NEW ARCHANGEL.
473
in perfect safety, was attacked by great numbers of Kalushes, who entered
the intrenchments without opposition, and murdered all they met with there
with circumstances of atrocious cruelty. A few Aleutians only escaped to
Kodiack, where they brought the news of the destruction of Sitka. This
took place in 1804, at the period that Admiral Krusenstern made his voyage
round the world, and his second ship, the Neva, was bound for the colony.
Baranoff took advantage of this, and with three armed vessels he accom-
panied the Neva to Sitka. The Kalushes retired at his approach to their
fortifications, and attempted to maintain a siege, but the guns from the ships
soon caused a speedy surrender. They were allowed to retire unmolested,
but they stole away secretly on a dark night, after murdering all of their
party who might have been an encumbrance to them. Baranoff thus be-
came nominally possessed of the island, but in reality of a hill forming
a natural fortification, and formerly inhabited by a Kalush chief called
Katelan.
Sitka Sound is 12 miles wide at the entrance between Cape Edgcumbe
and Sitka Point to the N.W., and the N.W. point of Biorka Island (the Point
Wodehouse of Vancouver) to the S.E. This last is the outermost of a laby-
rinth of islands which extends many miles to the S.E. It is about 2 miles
in diameter, and appears to have a clear channel three-quarters of a mile
wide to the East of it, but at more than half a mile S.S.E. of its South
extreme, or one-third of a mile from Neprop, an islet off it is the Vasileva
Rock, dangerous. A still more important danger, which will require all
caution in entering the sound and making for the settlement, is a sunken rock,
with only 10 feet at low water, lying 2 miles S.W. by W. § W. mag. from
the N.W. point of Biorka. There are several other detached breakers and
shoals shown on the chart higher up the island, which cannot well be de-
scribed verbally. At 12 miles north-eastward from the line of the opening
of the sound is the Russian establishment of Sitka or Novo Arkhangel, on a
promontory, within a range of scattered islets and rocks, which should not
be attempted by a stranger without a pilot.
SITKA or New Archangel, the Russian establishment, stands on the
N.W. point of a bay on the eastern side of the sound. The arsenal is in
lat. 57° 2′ 45″, long. 135° 17′ 10″ W.
The harbour and approaches to Sitka have been surveyed, as before stated,
by the Russians, and the plan by Captain Yassilieff, 1850, will be the best
guide for entering the port.
The establishment, as may be supposed, is in a state of transition, since its
change of masters. Of its future it would be hard to predict, but there can
be no doubt but that, under the vigorous rule of the new government, many
of its capabilities will be developed. But as the trade in furs is under re-
restriction, and the climate forbids the hope of much agriculture being
474
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
successful, the chief objects of colonization are shut out from general
enterprise.
In one respect its fortunes are already changed. Under the Russians it
was a remote and isolated place; now it has a regular steam communication
with San Francisco, distant about 1,500 miles.
Mr. Frederick Whymper visited it in 1865, and his interesting volume,
chapter vii, will give a good account of its condition at that time. The fol-
lowing is taken from an article in the Mercantile Marine Magazine, 1869,
which gives a description of the place as it is under the new regime.
The harbour of Sitka is a very picturesque one, with plenty of water for
the largest ships to pass in and out, but a dangerous one, owing to the large
number of little islets and rocks, between which pass narrow channels, any
of them with sufficient water to float a ship, but hardly sea-room enough to
be safe; however, the old Russian pilot seems to have no difficulty in getting
through them when required. The entrance to the harbour is superb.
Mount Edgcumbe towers up some 8,000 feet above the level of the sea; its
immense crater, filled with snow, marks the north-western boundary of the
harbour, and can be seen at a great distance. Baranoff Island is made up
of mountains piled on mountains, looking as if pushed up out of the sea by
some grand convulsion of nature at no very distant day, as evidenced by their
peaked summits and jagged outlines.
The town of Sitka, formerly New Archangel, is situated on a point of
land jutting out into the bay, from the base of the mountains, probably
containing about 1,000 acres, and from the character of the soil appears to
have been made by the washings of the ocean. On the point is a large
lake of fresh water, in front of which, along the edge of the bay, are about
150 log houses, scattered about promiscuously. There is but one street, and
that extends through the whole length of the town, and is continued for
about a mile to Indian River, a little mountain stream emptying into the
bay at this point. This is the only road on the island; beyond this, and
in fact, on all sides of the island, for some distance before you reach its
termination, the thicket is impenetrable. This little river furnishes splendid
water, cold as ice, and seems to get its supply from the melting snows on the
summit of the mountains. To this little river the road leads, and was made
by the Russians for the purpose of getting water, as the lake water is hardly
fit to drink. There is not a well or cistern on the island, a large proportion
of the water used being carried in small casks slung on a pole, on the
shoulders of two men or women.
The governor's house is built on a rock, and overlooks the town and bay,
is a very large structure, and heretofore furnished not only a residence for the
governor, but for many of the officers of the company. There are large
rooms on the second floor, readily converted into one immense room, the
partitions being moveable, for entertainments, which were given by the
NEW ARCHANGEL.
475
governor very often, he being allowed a fund for this purpose by the Com-
pany. The house is surrounded by a wide platform, the side towards the
bay being protected by a redoubt and stockade, in which cannon were
mounted, as well as on the platform. The garrison flagstaff is on this
platform. The house is approached by three flights of steps; on the first
platform is a covered way to the entrance of the house; on the next, a
sentry-box, and on the next, on one side the guard-house and on the other
a service magazine; and at the foot of the steps the barracks for the soldiers.
All approaches to it were well guarded. On the other three sides are the
Company's warehouses, still occupied in part by them, forming a hollow
square, with a battery of some twelve or fourteen guns bearing on the
Indian village, and one of the approaches to the town.
There is a dock here, which is in a dilapidated condition, and cannot be
used for ships to lay alongside of until it is extended. The Russians had an
old hulk anchored in front of it and a staging built, but this was destroyed
by the furious gale we had here shortly after our arrival.
The Company's office was on the left of the entrance to the governor's
house. This is now occupied; the upper part of it for officers' quarters, and
the lower rooms for the head-quarters and collector's office. Opposite the
entrance to the greenhouse is a ship-yard, and further on, on the edge of the
bay, is a large storehouse, now occupied by the quartermaster. The stockade,
separating the Indian village from the town, runs in a north-easterly direc-
tion, and is about 1 mile in length, terminating at the lake.
The Greco-Russian church has rather an imposing cathedral here, which
is a great relief to the appearance of the town. It has a dome and steeple,
with a chime of bells, stands nearly in the centre of the town, fronting the
main street, in fact is in its centre, the street fronting on each side. It is
built in the form of a cross, and although it has a rather rough exterior is
very gorgeous inside, decorated with the paraphernalia appertaining to the
church service, which is very imposing and magnificent. The church pro-
perty here consists of the bishop's house, widows' home, cathedral, and
chapel. The Indian village fronts the bay, and contains about one hundred
large huts, built of hewn logs, and very substantial-built for defence as
well as to live in. There are from eight to twelve hundred warriors, with
their squaws, children, and dogs. Up to the time of our arrival they were
not permitted to come into the town, except as they were wanted by the
Russians to work. A few passes were given to the more distinguished
chiefs; but since the stars and stripes have floated from the flagstaff, Mr.
and Mrs. Indian have been permitted to pay us their respects any time.
between reveillé and retreat; but after that, if caught in town, are locked
up in the cells until morning, and possibly, for example sake, for two or
three days.
Biorka Island, or Point Wodehouse, as previously mentioned, is the S.W.
476
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
point of Sitka Sound. An extensive group of islets and rocks extend S.S.E.
from it for 3 or 4 miles from the shore, which, from that point, with little
variation, takes a course of S. 36° E. This part of the coast is much broken
into small openings, with islets and detached rocks lying off it.
We can offer no account of it. At 20 miles from Biorka Island the Rus-
sian charts show an extensive inlet, trending to the N.E., named Whale
Bay. It is the Port Banks, of Capt. Dixon, is in lat. 56° 35′, and the fol-
lowing are Dixon's remarks on it :-"The prospect at Port Banks, though
rather confined, yet has something more pleasing and romantic than any we
had seen on the coast. The land to the northward and southward rises
sufficiently to an elevation to convey every idea of winter; and though its
sides are perpetually covered with snow, yet the numerous pines, which
ever and anon pop out their lusty heads, divest it of that dreary and horrific
cast with the barren mountains to the N.W. of Cook River (Inlet). To
the eastward the land is considerably lower, and the pines appear to grow
in the most regular and exact order; these, together with the brushwood
and shrubs on the surrounding beaches, form a most beautiful contrast to
the higher land, and render the appearance of the whole truly pleasing and
delightful."
Cape Ommaney, the southern extremity of the Sitka Archipelago, lies 45
miles from Point Wodehouse, and has been previously described, p. 464.
Thus the entire circuit of this archipelago has been imperfectly noticed.
We now return to the northward, taking up the description at the point
where Cross Sound terminates.
Cape Spencer, the point above named, has been noticed on p. 469.
From Cape Spencer the coast takes a direction of N.W. It is steep and
entire, well wooded, and, with the exception of one opening, Altona Gulf,
between it and Cape Fairweather, appears not likely to afford shelter for
shipping. The coast is completely bounded at a little distance by steep,
compact mountains, which are a continuation of the same undivided range
stretching from the eastward.
CAPE FAIRWEATHER is placed by Vancouver in lat. 58° 50', long.
137° 50'. This cape cannot be considered as a very conspicuous promontory;
it is most distinguished when seen from the southward, as the land to the
West of it retires a few miles back to the North, and there forms a bend in
the coast, and is the most conspicuous point eastward of Cape Phipps, at
Behring Bay, to the northward.
MOUNT FAIRWEATHER is one of the most remarkable mountains on
the N.W. coast of America; it is 14,708 feet high; in lat. 58° 54′, long. 137°
38', and 9 miles from the nearest shore. Captain Cook says:
"This moun-
BEHRING, BAY-PORT MULGRAVE.
477
tain is the highest of a chain, or rather ridge of mountains, that rise at the
N.W. entrance of Cross Sound, and extend in a N.W. direction, parallel
with the coast. These mountains were wholly covered with snow (in May,
1788), from the highest summit down to the sea-coast (which was 12 leagues
distant), some few places excepted, when we could perceive trees rising, as
it were, out of the sea; and which, therefore, we supposed grew on low
land, or on islands bordering on the shore of the continent.
From Cape Fairweather to Cape Phipps, at the entrance of Behring Bay,
the distance is 73 miles; the intermediate coast is a low border extending
from the base of the mountains, well wooded, and in some parts appears to
be much inundated, the waters finding their way to the sea in shallow rivu-
lets, through two or three breaks in the beach.
BEHRING BAY, the true situation and character of which was first
elicited by Vancouver, runs inland, to the N.E., between Cape Phipps and
Point Manby. Captain Cook, supposing that a bay existed to the S.E.,
conceived it to be the bay that Chetrow, the master of Behring's fleet, re-
connoitred. This mistake was also followed by Capt. Dixon, who gave the
name of Admiralty Bay to that in question; but as Behring certainly was
the discoverer of a bay in this locality, and there being but one, the name
of that navigator has supplanted that applied by Dixon.
Cape Phipps, the south-easternmost point of Behring Bay, is in lat. 59°
33′, long. 139° 47'. About 2 miles within it, the coast taking a S.E. direc-
tion, there is a small opening in the low land, accessible only for boats, near
which was found an Indian village. Captain Sir Edward Belcher states
that he was driven much to the westward by the current near Cape Phipps
(vol. i. p. 82.)
Point Turner, which is a low narrow strip of land, forming the S.E. point
of the island that protects Port Mulgrave from the ocean, is E. S. 23
miles from the inner or North point of Cape Phipps. About a league E
N. from Point Turner is a point on the main land, which is the East end of
a rounding bay, about 4 miles across to Cape Phipps. It is necessary to
give a good berth to Cape Phipps, in order to avoid a small reef that
stretches from it into the sea. Cape Turner, on the contrary, is bold, and
must be kept close on board, for the purpose of avoiding the shoals that lie
a little distance to the eastward of it; between these shoals and the point
good anchorage is found, in 8 to 14 fathoms, clear good holding ground.
The rise and fall of the tide here are about 9 feet; and it is high water
about 30′ after the moon passes the meridian.
·
PORT MULGRAVE lies to the N.E. of Point Turner, and is protected.
from the ocean, as before stated, by an island lying in a N.E. and S.W.
direction.
It was possibly first discovered by Capt. Dixon, June, 1787, who named it
after that nobleman. It contains a number of small low islands, which, in
478
COAST OF ALASKA.
common with the rest of the coast, are entirely covered with pines, inter-
mixed with brushwood. To the North and West are high mountains covered
with snow, 10 leagues distant.
It was visited by Sir Edward Belcher, in H.M.S. Sulphur, who stayed a
short time here. Fish, halibut, and salmon of two kinds, were abundant and
moderate, of which the crews purchased and cured great quantities. Game
The remains of the Russian establishments were observed; a
very scarce.
blockhouse pitched on a cliff, on the East side; and on the low point, where
the astronomical observations were taken, the remains of another; also a
staff, with a vane and cross, over a grave. Sir Edward Belcher says that a
good leading mark for the entrance to the harbour is with Mount Fairweather
over Cape Turner (or N. 88° E.)
An off-shore shoal, 7 fathoms, sand, was probably crossed by the Sulphur
in coming out of Port Mulgrave, when no land could be seen within 3 miles.
-(Belcher, vol. i, p. 89.)
The island or islands before alluded to, which form the outer face of Port
Mulgrave, and of which Point Turner is the S.W. extremity, extend for 8
miles in length. They are almost joined to the continental shore by a spit
incommoded with many rocks and huge stones, but leaving a very narrow
channel, by which Vancouver's vessel, the Chatham, passed from one part of
the inlet to the other, from the northward.
Knight Island is 5 miles N.N.E. of the northern entrance to the channel
just described. It admits of a navigable passage all round it, but there are
some rocks that lie about half a mile from its West point; and there is an
islet situated between it and the main land, on its N.E. side.
Eleanor Cove. From the North entrance to Port Mulgrave the conti-
nental coast takes a N. 30° E. direction, 6 miles, to this cove, which is the
eastern extremity of Behring Bay. It is protected from the westward by
Knight Island, which is about 2 miles long in a N.E. and S.W. direction,
and about a mile broad, lying at the distance of a mile from the main
land.
14° W. 6 miles to Point La-
The two points forming the
Vancouver, are bluff, lying
The shore here is low, and trends about N.
touche, the S.E. limit of Digges Sound or Bay.
entrance to Digges Sound, thus named by
nearly East and West of each other, half a league asunder, the eastern-
most of them being Point Latouche, as above mentioned. The shores are
composed of a continuation of the low border, extending from the foot of
the mountain to the sea-side, and are bounded by frozen ice or snow, espe-
cially in the sound.
The continental coast, forming the North side of Behring Bay, runs
to the southward of West, and is nearly straight and compact. At 8
miles from the opening the land falls back, forming a small bay, with a
ICY BAY.
479
low island about 2 miles long to the N.N.E. of it. The coast here trends
S. 63° W. 8 miles, and then S. 85° W. 2 leagues, to Point Manby.
Point Manby forms the N.W. point of Behring Bay. It is in lat 59° 42′,
long. 140° 13′. To the eastward of it the country is well wooded, and pro-
ceeding northward it loses its verdant and more fertile appearance; the coast
still continues to be a low compact border of plain land.
Point Riou, though no longer existing, was a tolerably well-marked pro-
montory at the period of Vancouver's survey, and to whom it owes its name.
He describes it as being low, well wooded, with a small islet detached at a
little to the westward of it. The coast is still composed of a spacious margin
of low land, rising, with a gradual and uniform ascent, to the foot of
the still connected chain of lofty mountains, whose summits are but the
base from whence Mount St. Elias towers majestically conspicuous in re-
gions of perpetual frost. Vancouver's charts, from the extensive changes
continually going on, present but little to recognise in this part at the
present period.
ICY BAY lies to the N.W. of what was Point Riou. It is terminated by
steep cliffs, from whence the ice descends to the sea. At the eastern side of
the bay the coast is formed of low, or rather moderately elevated, land. Its
West point is a high, abrupt, cliffy point, bounded by a solid body of ice or
frozen snow.
This portion of the coast was visited by H.M.S. Sulphur, in her voyage
round the world, in 1837, and the following are Sir Edward Belcher's re-
marks, made during that visit :-
"Icy Bay is very aptly so named, as Vancouver's Point Riou must have dis-
solved, as well as the small island also mentioned, and on which I had long
set my heart, as one of my principal positions. At noon we tacked, in 10
fathoms, mud, having passed through a quantity of small ice, all of a sof
nature. The whole of this bay, and the valley above it, was now found to
be composed of (apparently) snow-ice, about 30 feet in height at the water
cliff, and probably based on a low, muddy beach; the water for some dis-
tance in contact not even showing a ripple; which, it occurred to me,
arose from being charged with floating vegetable matter, probably pine-
bark, &c.
"The small bergs, or reft masses of ice, forming the cliffy outlines of the
bay, were veined and variegated by mud streaks, like marble, and, where
they had been exposed to the sea, were excavated into arches, similar to some
of our chalk formations. The base of the point named by Vancouver Point
Riou probably remains; but being free, for some distance, of the greater
bergs, it presented only a low sand, or muddy spit, with ragged, dirty-
coloured ice, grounded. No island could be traced, and our interest was
too deeply excited in seeking for it, to overlook such a desirable object.
"The current was found to set 1 mile per hour, West, varying but slightly
480
COAST OF ALASKA.
}
in force, and not at all in direction. At this position we anchored in 50
fathoms, mud, near Mount St. Elias; not a single drift tree was noticed.
We were within the white water about 2 miles, which I am now satisfied
flows from the ice, but why it preserves its uniformity of strength and direc-
tion is yet a problem to be solved."
MOUNT ST. ELIAS is one of the most remarkable features of North-
West America. It is a noble conical mountain, rising far into the clouds,
and although in a climate far from temperate, and of such an elevation as to
lead to the conclusion that it rises far into the limits of perpetual snow, yet
Sir Edward Belcher says:-"Its edges, to the very summit, present a few
black wrinkles, and the depth of snow does not, even in the drifts, appear to
be very deep. It stands, as it were, as before mentioned, upon the summit
of the lofty range which runs parallel with the sea coast." Its elevation,
according to angular measurement, is 14,987 feet above the sea, and even
when visible at 150 miles distant, appears to be a majestic mountain.
Its discoverer was the celebrated Behring, who made the coast here on
the 20th of August, 1741, the name being applied from the saint to whom
that day is dedicated. Its lat. is 60° 18′ N., long. 140° 52′ W.
Pamplona Rock, &c.—According to some information given to Vancou-
ver's party by the Russian officers he met here, there is a very dangerous
rocky shoal, about 15 miles in length, lying by compass in a direction S.
by W., 63 miles from a place called by them Leda Unala. This Mr. Puget
conceived to be near the point called Point Riou. The Russian officer,
Portoff, himself had been on the shoal, taking sea otters, and stated that
the first discovery of it was owing to a Russian galliot having had the
misfortune, some years before, to be wrecked upon it. Two of the crew
were drowned, but the rest escaped in their boats. After that period an
annual visit had been made to it, for the purpose of killing sea-otters, which
were there met with.
From the Spaniards, also, Vancouver learnt that a very dangerous rock
existed in this neighbourhood, the situation of which they had taken great
pains to ascertain, and had found it to lie S. 41° E. from Cape Suck-
ling, at the distance of 26 leagues, and which was called by them Rock
Pamplona. By this bearing it appears to lie E.S.E., 8 miles distant from
the rocky shoal described by the Russians above; here it may be inferred
that Portoff and the Spaniards intended the same shoal, though it is not
stated by the latter to be so extensive as by the former.
It is without doubt dangerously situated for the navigation of this coast,
and it may possibly have proved fatal to Mr. Meares's consort, Mr. Tipping,
who, with his vessel, was never heard of after leaving Prince William Sound
in 1786.
The Coast, from Icy Bay, extends nearly East and West, without any-
CAPE SUCKLING.
481
thing remarkable for 40 miles, where there is a small river, called by the
Russians Riko Balshe Unala. It has a bar, and but little depth of water.
A few leagues further to the westward is another small river, emptying
itself into a shallow bay. Its entrance is obstructed by a bar, on which,
with easterly winds, the sea breaks with great violence.
The coast between this and Cape Suckling shoots out into small projecting
points, with alternate low, cliffy, or white sandy beaches, being the termina-
tion of a border of low woodland country, extending some distance within,
until it joins the foot of a closely united chain of lofty frozen mountains,
which is connected with the same range that extends to the north-westward
around Prince William Sound and Cook Inlet. From these low projecting
points some shoals stretch into the ocean. Vancouver passed one of these
at the distance of about 4 miles, sounding in 35 fathoms; it extends in a
southerly direction, 2 miles from a low point of land that forms the West
point of a bay, apparently very shoal. From the West point of this bay, in
lat. 60° 3′ 30″, long. 142° 54′ W., the shore towards Cape Suckling makes a
small bend to the north-westward, but the general direction of the coast is
nearly East and West, and appears to be firm and compact.
CAPE SUCKLING, so named by Cook in his third voyage, is conspicuous.
Vancouver, differing much from Cook, places it in lat. 60° 1′, long. 143° 41′,
but is considered by Raper as long. 143° 54'.* The point of the cape is low,
54′.*
but within it is a tolerably high hill, which is disjoined from the mountains
by low land, so that at a distance the cape looks like an island.
When near Cape Suckling, Captain Sir Edward Belcher says:-"Our
attention was suddenly attracted by the peculiar outline of the ridge in pro-
file, which one of our draughtsmen was sketching, apparently toothed. On
examining it closely with a telescope, I found that although the surface pre-
sented to the naked eye a comparatively even outline, it was actually one
mass of small, four-sided, truncated pyramids, resembling salt-water mud
which has been exposed several days to the rays of a tropical sun (as in tro-
pical salt marshes), or an immense collection of huts.
"For some time we were lost in conjecture, probably from the dark ash
colour; but our attention being drawn to nearer objects, and the sun lending
his aid, we found the whole slope, from ridge to base, similarly composed;
and as the rays played on those near the beach, the brilliant illumination dis-
tinctly showed them to be ice. We were divided between admiration and
astonishment. What could produce these special forms? If one could fancy
* It may be stated that the charts drawn up by Vancouver were found by Sir Edward
Belcher to be plainly erroneous about this region. All his transit bearings and other ob-
servations indicated this. A river appears to flow near Cape Suckling, which has not been
noticed.—Voyage of the Sulphur, vol. i, p. 175.
North Pacific.
2 I
482
COAST OF ALASKA.
himself perched on an eminence, about 500 feet above a city of snow-white
pyramidal houses, with smoke-coloured flat roofs, he might form some faint
idea of this beautiful freak of nature."
There is little doubt but that we
Cape Suckling is a low neck, stretching out from a mountainous, isolated
ridge, which terminates about 3 miles from it easterly, where the flats of the
ice pyramids just alluded to terminate, Apparently the river or opening
near Cape Suckling flows round its base.
may attribute the current to this outlet, arising probably, from the melting
of the snow.
We had less strength of current after passing this position.
Immense piles of drift wood were noticed on each side of the opening, but
none elsewhere.
Kaye Island, to the West and S. W. of the cape, is long and narrow. Its
South point, named by Vancouver Cape Hamond, is very remarkable, being
a naked rock, elevated considerably above the land within it. There is also
an elevated rock lying off it, which, from some points of view, appears like a
ruined castle. Towards the sea the island terminates in a kind of bare,
sloping cliffs, with a narrow, stony beach at their foot, and interrupted with
some gullies, in each of which is a rivulet or torrent, and the whole sur-
mounted with a growth of smallish pine trees.
"Kaye Island, viewed from the eastward, presents the appearance of two
islands. The southern is a high table-rock, free from trees and vegetation,
and of a whitish hue; the other is moderately high land for this region, with
three bare peaks, its lower region being well wooded.-(Sir Edw. Belcher,
vol. i, p. 70.)
Wingham Island.-Off the N.W. point of Kaye Island is Wingham Island,
and off its N.E. point, Point Mesurier, are some elevated rocks. Within these
and to the N.W. of Cape Suckling, is Comptroller Bay, which is shoal, and
extends 20 miles north-westward to Point Hey.
Wingham Island, which can be seen to nearly its whole length between
Cape Suckling and Point Le Mesurier (the North part of Kaye Island),
is moderately elevated, rising in three hummocks, which are bare on their
summits. The southern, at a distance, owing to the lowness of the neck,
appears separated. The whole is well clothed with trees.-(Sir Edward
Belcher.)
PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND was first explored by Captain Cook in his
last voyage.* Although this extensive inlet was before known to the Rus-
sians, the coast took him ten days to traverse, 11th to 21st of May, 1778, a
week of which was spent in the inlet; but, from the subsequent survey of
* Prince William Sound, and particularly its N.E. part, was visited by Senr. Fidalgo, in
1790, for the purpose of inquiring into the nature and extent of the Russian establishments
in these regions.
HINCHINBROOK ISLAND.
483
Captain Vancouver, it was found that no portion of his celebrated prede-
cessor's labours were so defectively described and delineated as this, which
leads to the supposition that some important authority has been omitted in
the drawing up of the narrative, which would not have occurred had the un-
fortunate circumnavigator survived to superintend its publication. From the
minute examination which was made of it by Vancouver, it proved to be a
branch of the ocean that requires the greatest circumspection to navigate;
and although it diverges into many extensive arms, yet none of them can be
considered as commodious harbours, on account of the rocks and shoals that
obstruct the approaches to them, or of the very great depth of water about
their entrances.
The N.E. point of the coast, where the sound commences, is Cape Witshed,
which is 43 miles from Point Hey, last described, the coast between being
fronted by a very extensive mud-flat. The outward coast of the sound is
formed by Hinchinbrook and Montagu Islands; between and to the West
of which are the entrances to it.
HINCHINBROOK ISLAND is the north-easternmost of those before Prince
William Sound. Its N.E. point, named Point Bentinck, is opposite to Point
Witshed, a league asunder, the space between occupied by a low, barren,
uninterrupted sand at low water, being a continuation of the sand-bank, ex-
tending from Comptroller Bay, and also along the coast to the N.E. of Point
Witshed. It is dry at low water, but at high water it was stated that there
is a boat channel, though Vancouver's party found the whole space occupied
by a most tremendous surf, rendering any passage at that time impracticable.
Cape Hinchinbrook, the S.W. point of the island, is 20 miles S.W. of Point
Bentinck, and is placed by Vancouver in lat. 60° 16', long. (corrected) 146°
27'. In a direction S.W. S. 7 miles from the cape, is a barren, flat, rocky
islet, with several rocks lying at a small distance from it. This lies, there-
fore, off the entrance to the sound between Hinchinbrook and the N.E. end
of Montagu Islands.
Between Montagu and Hinchinbrook Islands Captain Sir Edward Belcher
found shoal water, contrary to Vancouver's idea, rendering it necessary to
anchor in 17 fathoms, the tide running at 3 knots.
Port Etches* is on the eastern side of the entrance into the sound, con-
sequently on the eastern end of Hinchinbrook Island. The depth off the
North point of entrance is very great; no bottom with 100 fathoms could be
* Port Etches derives its name from Richard Cadman Etches, a merchant, who, with
others, entered into a trading partnership (May, 1785), under the title of the King
George's Sound Company, for carrying on the fur trade on this coast, having procured a
licence for this purpose from the South Sea Company. The voyages of Captains Portlock
and Dixon, in the King George and Queen Charlotte, in and subsequent to 1785, were under-
taken for this company.
2 I 2
484
COAST OF ALASKA.
found within a quarter of a mile of the shore. Off this point are some rocky
islets, and there are some within the entrance (the Porpoise Rocks), and until
these are past, there is no depth for anchorage. On the North side of the
port is a lagoon (Constantine Harbour), within which was a Russian estab-
lishment, on a situation commanding the low narrow peninsula, and formed
in 1793, when some ship building has been carried on.*
Port Etches was visited by H.M.S. Sulphur, in 1837. In the account of
the voyage is the following:
is the following:-"This establishment of the Imperial Russian
Fur Company consists of the official resident, eight Russians, and fifty Aleu-
tian and other allies. It is calculated to stand a tolerable siege, under de-
termined hands.
Port Etches might furnish a most complete harbour, if vessels frequented
these regions, or a station should ever be required in so high a latitude.
The currents, however, between it and Montagu Island render it difficult
of approach; and the Russian commandant stated that many sunken rocks
(but perhaps of 10 or 15 fathoms) lie off Cape Hinchinbrook. Capt. Belcher's
observations make Vancouver nearly as much in error in longitude as he
ascribes to Cook
Phipps Point, the N.E. or opposite extremity of the peninsula, on which
is the Russian establishment, is placed by Sir Edward Belcher in lat. 60° 21′
12″ N., long. 146° 50′ 15″ W; high water, full and change, 1h 15m; rise, 93
feet; variation, 31° 38' E.
Hawkins Island is to the N.E. of Hinchinbrook Island, and is about 20
miles long, N.E. and S.W. On its southern side is the channel before
mentioned, which is contracted by the sand-bank on the S.E. shore to a
narrow, difficult channel against the southern shore of the island.
On the North side of Hawkins Island is Port Cordova, an arm extending
from its N.W. point about 13 miles in an easterly direction. Within these
limits are a bay and a small branch, in which are several rocks and rocky
islets. These shores are in general low, ending in pebbly beaches, where
shoal water extends some distance, and renders landing at low tide very un-
pleasant. To the northward is Port Gravina. The S.E. point of its entrance
is placed by Vancouver in lat. 60° 41′.
Snug Corner Bay is on the N.W. end of the peninsula, separating Ports
Gravina and Fidalgo. Its West point is in lat. 60° 45', long. 146° 35'. Capt.
Cook said it was a very snug place.
Port Fidalgo is so named after the Spanish commander who visited it in
1790. It extends in a winding direction to lat. 60° 55', long. 145° 48′; its
* Upon Garden Island Capt. Belcher found a pine that was marked by Portlock, July
22, 1787, and was very nearly destroying it.-(Belcher, vol. i, p. 73.) At present the island
is covered with pine trees, without many traces of the garden.
PUERTO DE VALDES, ETC.
485
width being about 2 miles, and its length 28 miles. A small inlet runs in,
2 miles in a N.N.E. direction, at the N.W. point of Port Fidalgo, and
S.S.W. W. 4 miles from its West point is the South end of Bligh Island.
The shores are also rocky. Bligh Island is 7 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W.,
and some islands off its North end form the southern side of the entrance to
Puerto de Valdes.
Puerto de Valdes was so named by Senr. Fidalgo, and extends N.E. by
N. for 12 miles, where a small brook, supplied by the dissolving snow and
ice, flows into the arm, and from thence extends 5 miles in an East direction
to its termination in shallow water. The port is from half a league to a
league in breadth. Its West point is called Point Freemantle, and is in lat.
60° 57', long. 146° 49′,
Southward of Port Freemantle is an island 7 miles long, in a S.W. by W.
direction, and a league broad; within it is a passage half a league wide.
Westward of the island before mentioned is an arm extending about 4
leagues to the North, and terminating at the foot of a continuation of the
range of lofty mountains. It is, in general, about a league wide, and its
western coast terminates to the South, or Point Pellew, and from this the
coast takes an irregular direction, about W.S.W. 10 miles toward the East
point of a passage leading northward.
From Point Pellew a channel extends about 3 leagues in length, to the
N.W. N. This in some places is a mile, and in others not a quarter of a
mile broad; its West side formed by Esther Island. Four miles North from
its further end is Point Pakenham, which is the S.W. point of Port Wells.
This extends in a N.N.E. direction, and terminated in a firm and compact
body of ice. Hence the coast pursues a southerly direction, 5 leagues to
Point Pigot. The continent is here composed of a stupendous range of snowy
mountains, from whose base low projecting land extends, jutting out into
points, and forming the shores, which are thinly wooded with dwarf pines
and stunted alders.
Point Pigot and Point Cochrane, opposite to it, form the entrance to Passage
Canal. The principal branch extends from Point Pigot West 13 miles, and
then S.W. by S. 4 miles further, terminating in lat. 60° 48' Here the head
of the inlet reaches within 12 miles of Turnagain Arm, at the head of
Cook Inlet, hereafter described. The isthmus itself is a valley of some
breadth, which, though containing elevated land, was very free from snow
(in June), and appeared to be perfectly easy of access. By it the Russians,
and Indians also, communicated with either of these extensive sounds. The
other branch extends 2 leagues W.S.W. from Point Cochrane, which is 14
mile South from Point Pigot. Eight miles E. by S. from Point Cochrane is
Point Culross. Off Point Culross in an island about a league from the shore,
and about 4 miles long; and following the coast southward for 6 miles, we
arrive at an opening about 2 miles wide. From the South point of the
486
COAST OF ALASKA.
entrance, 11 miles along a shore broken into small bays, lined by innumer-
able rocks, and exposed to the whole range of the N.E. swell from the sound,
brings you to Point Nowell, in lat. 60° 27′.
Between this coast and the ocean are a considerable number of large islands
which lie generally in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. The coast of the
continent runs, but in a very irregular manner, in the same direction, to Cape
Puget, in lat. 59° 55', long. 148° 3', this being the point where the shores of
the main land form the seaward face.
From Point Nowell the main coast turns to S.W. S. for about 11 miles,
to a point where an arm extends first N.W., and then terminates to the
South, in a circular basin full of rocks. Before this coast is an island, fol-
lowing its direction at 2 miles distant, and 3 leagues long, forming a passage
but full of rocks. Five and a half miles S.E. from the South point of the
arm first mentioned, is Point Countess, in lat. 60° 13'. To the West is a bay
about 4 miles deep, terminating in a compact body of ice that descended
from high perpendicular cliffs to the water side. The coast southward of
Point Countess forms the N.W. side of a narrow channel, 11 miles in length,
in a S.W. W. direction. The North point of the southern end of this
strait* is Point Waters; it has some rocks and breakers before it. This point
is on the eastern side of Port Bainbridge, an inlet from the ocean, extending
18 miles in length from its entrance, in a North direction. From its being
directly open to the ocean, although at this distance from it, the wind, when
it sets up or down the channel, sends such a violent sea upon it, that landing
is dangerous. Point Pyke, on the western side, is 6 miles from Point
Waters. It is remarkable for its sugar-loaf form. S.S.E. 5 miles from
Point Pyke, is Point Elrington, the south-eastern point of Port Bainbridge,
and the south-westernmost part of a high, rugged cluster of islands. Op-
posite to Point Elrington is Cape Puget, before mentioned, on the main
land.
The island of which Points Elrington and Pyke form a portion, is high and
rugged, and about 6 leagues in length, in a general N.N.E. direction. La-
touche Island lies off its eastern side, separated by a channel half a league
broad. Its northern point is named Point Grace. Knight Island lies to the
northward of these, and is upwards of 9 leagues in length in the same direc-
tion; and beyond this, again, are some others of less dimensions.
Between this and Montagu Island is Green Island, so named by Cook, in
May, 1778, from its being entirely free from snow, and covered with wood
*It was in this strait that Vancouver's party encountered a violent storm, June, 1794;
a very heavy gust of wind brought down from a considerable height on the mountain side
an immense mass of earth, trees, and frozen snow, which fell at a distance not exceeding a
hundred yards from the assembled party. They observed in other places the effects of
similar storms, which will serve as a warning to any one on these shores.
MONTAGU ISLAND.
487
and verdure. The islands near the open sea are, as before stated, elevated
and rocky; those within are low ones. Off the North point of Green
Island, a league or a league and a half North, are some ledges of rocks,
some above and others under water, making it very unsafe plying in this
neighbourhood.
MONTAGU ISLAND is the largest and principal island of Prince William
Sound, it being, according to Vancouver's survey, 46 miles in length, from
S.W. by S. to N.E. by N.; its average breadth is about 2 leagues. Its South
point is in lat. 59° 46′, long. 147° 30′. The passage on the inside, or to
N.W. of the island, forms an entrance into Prince William Sound, between
it and Latouche and Green Islands, of course varying in breadth. At
16 miles from the South end of Montagu Island is Point Bazil, in lati-
tude 60° 1'.
The two bays, one named by Portlock Hemming Bay, and the other M'Leod
Harbour, are stated by Mr. Whidbey to be very exposed anchorages, and
nothing more than stopping places in navigating this channel.
M'Leod Harbour is 5 or 6 leagues within the S.W. point of Montagu Island.
Its outer points, Point Bryant on the South, and Point Woodcock on the
North, are about 2 miles apart, and joined by a bank of 7 or 8 fathoms,
black sand and mud, within which is a depth of 21 to 12 fathoms. Within
it takes a turn to the North, round a point which is quite bold-to, and may
be passed close. A ship can lie in 4 or 5 fathoms water, with the South
point of the bay just shut in with this point, at about a cable's length from
the shore.—(Portlock.)
Port Chalmers, on the West side, and toward the North end of Montagu
Island, is in lat. 60° 16′ N., long. 146° 50′ E. Vancouver says:-"The place
of our anchoring in Port Chalmers can only be considered as a small cove,
on a rugged rocky coast, very difficult of access or egress.” Stockdale Har-
bour, too, is only a bay full of rocks, and of course not worthy of particular
attention. The shores about Port Chalmers are in general low, and very
swampy in many places, on which the sea appeared to be making rapid en-
croachments, the remains of the forests being seen below high water mark.
Off the entrance to the harbour are several lurking rocks, which make its
approach very dangerous, as before stated.
The South Passage Rock lies from the North point of the harbour West
something less than a mile distant, and from the small woody islet, N. by W,
W. about three-quarters of a mile. To the North of this is the North
Passage Rock, lying from the North point of the harbour N.N.W. W. 2
miles distant, and W.S.W. three-quarters of a mile from Stockdale Harbour.
These rocks must be carefully avoided, as they are not always visible.
It is high water at Port Chalmers about one hour after the moon passes
the meridian; the current sets southward, and there is no draught into the
488
COAST OF ALASKA.
harbour. Springs rise 13 and 14 feet, the night tides rising above a foot
more than those in the day.
The strait between Montagu and Green Islands, to the northward of
Port Chalmers, is embarrassed by a line of sunken rocks, which are very
steep-to, affording no indication of their proximity by the lead. As this side
of the island is greatly exposed to the prevailing winds, great caution ought
to be observed in navigating near its shores.
From the N.E. point of Montagu Island its shores run compactly to the
S.W. for 31 miles, to a low projecting point covered with wood. Off it lies
a cluster of six rocky islets, chiefly composed of steep cliffs, nearly level on
their tops, which may serve as a direction in thick or gloomy weather to the
South point of Montagu Island, lying from them S.W. by W. W. distant
17 miles. They are tolerably well wooded, and are not liable to be mistaken,
particularly for the Chiswell Isles (21 leagues to the West), because those
appear to be entirely barren. Resurrection Gulf is to the northward of the
Chiswell Isles.
The Chiswell Isles are a group of naked rugged rocks, seemingly destitute
of soil and any kind of vegetation. The centre of the southernmost group
is in lat. 59° 31', long. 149° 2′. From this, the easternmost, which is a single
detached rock, lies N.E. E. about a league distant; and the northernmost,
which has several less islets and rocks about it, lies N. by E. E. 5 miles
distant.
Blying Sound of the Russians, called by Portlock Port Andrews, lies
within the Chiswell Isles.
To the south-westward of the Chiswell Isles the coast presents a broken
appearance as far as Pie Islands, the South extreme of the southernmost of
which lies in lat. 59° 19′, long. 149° 51'. This island, in several points of
view, forms a conspicuous peak, and although not remarkable for its great
height, yet from its singular appearance it is not likely to be mistaken in
this neighbourhood, as it descends with great regularity from its summit to
the water's edge. A group of rocks lying W. by S. S. 4 miles from it,
must be very dangerous in thick weather, as it is probably covered at high
water, spring tides.
Between Pie Islands and Point Gore, a distance of 18 miles, the coast is
in most parts very mountainous, and descends rather quickly into the
ocean. Point Gore is placed by Vancouver in latitude 59° 11', longitude
(corrected) 150° 22′. Towards the sea this projecting promontory termi-
nates in an abrupt cliff, moderately elevated, and is connected to the main
land by a low peninsula covered with trees. To the westward of the point
is Port Dick.
CAPE ELIZABETH is the S.E. point of the mouth of Cook Inlet. It is
placed by Vancouver in lat. 59° 9′, long. (corrected) 151° 18'. The coast
here is composed of high land, before which lie three small islands and some
COOK INLET.
489
rocks. The cape is itself the largest of these, and the westernmost of them.
To the S.W. of the middle isle is a cluster of rocks, both above and below
the water's surface.
Port Chatham, so named by Vancouver from his tender, is situated behind
the island which forms Cape Elizabeth, and from that promontory extends to
a point in a N.E. direction 5 miles, and from thence it terminates in an
excellent harbour, about 2 miles long from West to East, and 1 broad North
and South, affording secure and convenient anchorage. The passage into it,
passing to the N.W. of Cape Elizabeth, is free from all obstructions but such
as are sufficiently conspicuous or easily avoided.
The Chatham anchorage, off an excellent run of water, was found to be
in lat. 59° 14′, long. 150° 56'. The rise and fall of the tide, near the change
of the moon, were 14 feet, but during neap tides not more than 10 or 11 feet.
High water about an hour after the moon had passed the meridian; but
greatly influenced by the form and direction of the winds. The Russian
establishment, Fort Alexandroffsk, is in a bay to the westward of Port
Chatham.
The KENAY PENINSULA separates the two extensive inlets called Prince
William Sound and Cook Inlet. There were several Russian establishments
on its shores, and it is inhabited by a tribe which has given the name,
Kenaians, to all the Indians North of the Copper River, and West of the
Rocky Mountains, except the Aleutians and Esquimaux. They are a proud
and fearless race, but are represented by the Russians and those employed
by the Telegraph Company, as peaceable and well disposed. But they are
always ready to resist any affront or wrong.
COOK INLET.
This extensive arm of the ocean was discovered by Captain Cook, in 1788,
but he explored it imperfectly, supposing that it was much more extensive
than it was found to be by Vancouver in 1794. Cook thought that it was the
estuary of a great river, and as he did not name it, Lord Sandwich directed
that it should be called Cook's River; but when Vancouver penetrated to its
head, he properly called it Cook's Inlet.
Point Bede, so named by Cook, May 26, 1788, is a lofty promontory, and
from this the coast trends N.E. by E., with a chain of mountains inland ex-
tending in the same direction. The land on the coast is woody, and there
seemed to be no deficiency of harbours.
Graham Harbour is 7 miles from Point Bede. The entrance, according
to Portlock's sketch, is between Russian Point on the South, off which a
rocky shoal dries at half ebb nearly 1½ mile out, and Coal Bay on the North
4 or 5 miles apart. In the entrance is Passage Island, on either side of which
is an open channel. From this it runs up about 9 miles to the E.S.E., and
490
COAST OF ALASKA.
terminates in a fresh-water river. There are several projecting points on each
side of the harbour, that form very good and snug bays, where a ship might
if necessary be hauled on shore in the greatest safety.
Coal Bay on the North side, to the East of the North point, is a pretty
good one, carrying soundings in 14, 12, and 8 fathoms, fine black sand.
Capts. Portlock and Dixon landed on the West side of the bay, and in
walking round discovered two veins of cannel coal, situated near some hills
just by the beach, about the middle of the bay, and with very little trouble
several large pieces were got out of the bank.
The best time to run into this harbour is as near low water as possible.
Whatever danger there is may then be seen, either from beds of kelp, or the
rocks showing themselves above water.
CHUGACHNIK, or Tschougatschouk Bay, lies to the N.E., and its N.W.
extremity is Anchor Point, in lat. 59° 39'; and hence, according to Van-
couver's chart, the coast pursues a nearly straight direction 60 miles to the
Russian establishment, 8 miles to the S.E. of the East Foreland.
The S.W. limit of Cook Inlet may be placed at Cape Douglas, in lat. 58°
52′, long. 152° 51'. The coast hereabout is composed of a low tract of
country, stretching from the base of very lofty mountains, wrapped in snow,
(May, 1794). Off the cape, a few miles to the northward, lies a very
low flat island, Shaw Island, off the N.E. point of which is a ledge of rocks.
To the northward of the mountains that form the promontory of Cape
Douglas, is a lofty, rugged ridge, firmly connected by land less elevated,
and forming a deep bay between the cape and the lower borders of
Ouchouganat Island, or Mount St. Augustine. The shores of this bay,
Bourdieu Bay, in most directions seem compact, but encumbered with large
rocks and stones; the depth of water across it North and South is from 9 to
12 fathoms.
OUCHOUGANAT ISLAND, or Mount St. Augustine, is a very remarkable
island, rising with a uniform ascent from the shores to its lofty summit,
which is nearly perpendicular, to the centre of the island, inclining somewhat
to its eastern side, and being in lat. 59° 22′, long. 153° 0'. It is about 9
leagues in circuit, and forms a lofty, uniform, conical mountain, presenting
nearly the same appearance from every point of view. The width of the
passage between it and the main land is about 6 miles.
Advancing northward along the shores of the main land, it will appear
indented and broken into small coves and bays. In lat. 59° 42′ are three
islets, against the shore, behind which there is appearance of anchorage and
shelter. There is nothing remarkable on the coast* until we come to the
* The weather now (April 18, 1794), though extremely cold (the mercury standing at
25°), was very cheerful, and afforded us an excellent view of the surrounding region, com-
posed, at a little distance from the river, of stupendous mountains, whose rugged and ro-
COOK INLET.
491
northward of lat. 60°, where there are two openings, the northern of which
is the principal. It runs to the West, and then S.W. towards the foot of a
conspicuous volcano, Iliaminsk Peak, 12,066 feet high, which lies in lat. 60°
6', long. 152° 36′.
From the mouth of this opening to the West and East Foreland, where
the breadth of Cook Inlet is considerably contracted, the distance is 43 miles,
the distance between its shores at this part being about 30 miles. In the in-
termediate space lies an island, named by the Russians Coulgiak Island,
which divides the inlet here into two channels, the N.W. of which is much
encumbered by dangerous and extensive shoals. The island itself is about
13 miles long, nearly N.E. and S.W., and is narrow. Vancouver landed on
it, on the South point of a shallow bay on its N.W. side, towards its S.W.
extremity. The snow, which was lying very deep on the ground (April 17,
1794), confined their walk to the beach, on which was lodged some small
drift wood, and on it they found some pieces of coal, resembling cannel coal.
The more important part of this island to the navigator is a dangerous shoal
which extends, in its direction from the S.W. end, for the distance of at least
2 leagues. From the great variety of soundings on passing over it, it ap-
pears to be very uneven, as in several instances the ship struck violently on
some detached pieces of rock, so that it is infinitely more dangerous than a
mere spit of sand.
Abreast of the S.W. point, on the West shore, is Point Harriet, which is
a moderately high steep cliff. Off the point a shoal extends a league off, on
the outer edge of which is only 3 fathoms. To the N.E. of this again, the
channel between the island and the western shore has some extensive shoals.
It is between 6 and 7 miles from the main land, and is near a league from
the West side of the island.
Beyond this the shores of Cook Inlet are comparatively low, or only
moderately elevated, jutting out into three remarkable steep cliffy points,
named the East, West, and North Forelands; the two former forming the
Narrows.
The West Foreland is in lat. 60° 42', long. 151° 12′, and is about 8 miles
nearly due West from the East Foreland.
A rock, that is visible only at half tide, lies about the fourth of a mile
from the extremity of the point.
mantic forms, clothed in a perpetual sheet of ice and snow, presented a prospect, though
magnificently grand, yet dreary, cold, and inhospitable. In the midst of these appeared
the volcano, near the summit of which, from two distinct craters on its south-eastern side,
were emitted large columns of whitish smoke, unless, as was supposed by some on board,
it was vapour arising from hot springs in that neighbourhood; but how far this conjecture
was consistent with the severity of the climate at the top of that lofty mountain, is not
within the limits of my judgment to determine.- Vancouver, vol. iii, p. 100.
492
COAST OF ALASKA.
Between the West Foreland and the North Foreland, both of which are
on the western shore, the coast forms a spacious open bay, called by Portlock
Trading Bay. At the head of this was a Russian establishment.
The S.E. shore eastward of the East Foreland forms a shallow bay, be-
tween it and a point 6 miles N.E. by N. above it, with soundings of 7 and 8
fathoms within a convenient distance of the shore, sheltered from the East
and South quarters. Beyond this point, and between it and a point lying 7
miles W.S.W. from Point Possession, a distance of 21 miles, the outer bank
forms a perfect labyrinth of conical rocks, detached from each other on a
bank of sand and small stones, extending a league and a league and a half
from the shore. These rocks are of different elevations, and few of them
are of sufficient height to appear above high water level. This very extra-
ordinary rugged region appears to join to the southern side of the shoal on
which Cook's ship, the Resolution, grounded in 1778. This shoal extends
half way over the strait, and its outer end is about 9 miles nearly N. from
the East Foreland.
The North Foreland is in lat. 61° 4', long. 150° 35', and on it Vancouver
found the Russian factory. For 2 leagues to the North of this, along the
western shore, tolerable anchorage is found. But this space is greatly ex-
posed to the East and S.W. winds, the prevalent and most violent in this
country.
Turnagain Island lies at the head of the more extensive part of Cook
Inlet. Its West end is in lat. 61° 8'. It is about 3 miles long, E.N.E.
and W.N.W., and half a league broad. The island lies in the entrance of a
branch diverging from the main inlet in a N.E. direction. Its entrance lies
between Point Mackenzie on the North, and Point Woronzow S.W. by S. 2
miles from it. Cook's vessel penetrated this inlet a short distance, but left
its termination undiscovered. Vancouver anchored 5 miles above its entrance
and found that all above him became, at low water, a succession of dry
sand-banks, occupying the whole of the space up to its head, 18 miles further
on, in lat. 61° 29', long. 148° 55'. At high tide it becomes an extensive sheet
of water.
Turnagain Arm.-The southernmost branch is the principal. It was
called by Cook Turnagain River, and by Vancouver Turnagain Arm, he hav-
ing decided its real character. Its entrance lies between Point Campbell,
which is S. by W. W. 4 miles from Point Woronzow, and Point Possession on
the southern shore. At 14 or 16 miles above these the shores converge again,
up to which points they are 3 or 4 leagues asunder, but they cannot be ap-
proached on account of the shallow flat.
The tide here rises 13 feet perpendicularly, so that at low water the re-
maining portion of the arm is dry, or nearly so. It extends 22 miles above
these points, and thus approaches to within 4 leagues of the head of Passage
Canal, in the N.W. part of Prince William Sound, described on page 482.
THE KODIAK ARCHIPELAGO.
493
Across this isthmus the Russians and Indians communicate with these two
extensive inland waters, as there mentioned.
The time of high water in the N.E. arm is about six hours after the
moon passes the meridian, and the rise and fall at springs is estimated
at about 27 feet.
THE KODIAK ARCHIPELAGO.
The KODIAK ARCHIPELAGO was first seen by Behring, on his voyage
of discovery, on returning from the American coast, in 1741. They were
seen in 1763 by the Russian merchant Glotoff. In 1768 Chelighoff took
possession of them in the name of a company of merchants for the trade in
furs, of which he was the chief; and, in 1799, they were granted in full
possession to the Russian American Company.
The archipelago is composed of two principal islets, Kodiak and Afognak,
and several smaller islets in their neighbourhood.
Kodiak (or Cadiak, as it is called by Lisiansky) is very mountainous, and
surrounded by deep bays, into which a number of deep rivers fall. The
country is in general too elevated for settlement, and is, besides, for the
greater part of the year, covered with snow. The climate is by no means
agreeable; the air is seldom clear, and even in summer there are few days
which may be called warm; the weather, indeed, depends entirely on the
winds; so long as they continue to blow from the North, the West, or the
South quarter, it is fine; when from other points of the compass, fogs, damps
and rain are sure to prevail. The winters very much resemble what is felt
in Russia in a bad autumn, which is, however, not without exceptions.
The native animals are few, consisting of bears, foxes, ermines, &c. Birds
are much more numerous, both in numbers and variety. Kodiak also
abounds in fish, which are halibut, cod, flounders, &c., and salmon, which
last come into the rivers, from May to October, in great abundance. The
marine animals were formerly much more numerous, but from the indis-
criminate slaughter they have been much thinned. Fur seals were formerly
one of the staple products of the group. But the article for which it is now
best known is ice, which is carefully prepared for the Californian and other
markets in the bay of St. Paul.
The population is small, compared with the size of the islands; they were
estimated at a total of 4,000 by Lisiansky, in 1805. It was stated that, pre-
vious to the arrival of the Russians, it was more than double this. Cheli-
ghoff stated that he subjected 50,000 men to the crown of Russia, which is
manifestly an exaggeration. They are a family of the Aleutians, resembling,
in many respects, the Southern Esquimaux. They are generally kind and
well disposed, and not entirely wanting in industry. By the introduction of
494
COAST OF ALASKA.
schools and churches among them, the Russians have done much toward
reducing them to a state of civilization.*
KODIAK, as before stated, is high, hilly, and very much intersected. Its
greatest diameter is about 30 leagues in a N.E. and S.W. direction, and its
breadth may be assumed as 15 leagues. The shore, on all sides of the
island, is indented with a great number of large and deep bays, which con-
tain excellent harbours. That of Chiniatskoy is the largest, and at the same
time the most important; for it is in the bottom of this bay that the estab-
lishment of the Russian-American Company, formerly the principal in the
Pacific Ocean, lies. This is the town and harbour of St. Paul. It is, there-
fore, the only port frequented by strangers, and we shall be more particular
in its description.
CHINIATSKOY BAY is formed by the cape of that name on the South,
and Long or Barren (Sterile) Island on the North, an opening of 8 miles in
a N. W. and S. E. direction. It is 6 miles deep, and its S.W. portion
is filled with rocks.
The frequent and lasting fogs which occur here would render the approach
to this bay very difficult, if it were not for the island named Ougak, lying
15 miles South of Cape Chiniatskoy, and 2 miles from the land. This
being the only island on the East coast to the South of the bay, it becomes
an infallible point of recognizance on approaching it.
The Harbour of St. Paul is excellent in every respect; the depth 5, 6,
and 7 fathoms, good holding ground. Properly speaking, it is a narrow
channel, formed by Proche Island, which will hold but few vessels at a time.
The outer road is equally well sheltered and secure. Captain Golownin's
directions follow.
The port of St. Paul has two entrances; one from the South, by the Bay
of Chiniatskoy; the other, from the North, passes through the outer road.
Neither are dangerous if the wind be favourable, and the weather sufficiently
clear to distinguish the shores around the port; but it should not be ap-
proached during the night or in fog, for there are no lights, and the currents
may carry you easily on to the shoals and rocks, which are abundant on all
sides.
As soon as you have cleared Cape Chiniatskoy, you find before you a rock
called Gorbun; ster N. W. W. or N.W. W., true, and you will soon see
ahead a small high island, Toporkowa, upon which you must be careful to
direct your course. This island will show you the direction of the current ;
* Many particulars of the group, in addition to those contained in the accounts of the
Russian discovery by Dr. Coxe, and Pallas, will be found in Lisiansky's Voyage, chapter x.
p. 190 et seq.; Billing's Voyage, by Martin Sauer; Langsdorff's Travels; Cook's Third
Voyage, vol. iii.; and Vancouver's Voyage, vol. iii. These will give a good idea of the
condition and resources of this inhospitable country.
HARBOUR OF ST. PAUL.
495
steer right upon it, leaving to starboard Barren Island, and then the
channel which separates it from another called Woody Island. When abreast
of the South point of the latter, which may be readily known by the rocks
surrounding it, bear to the North, ranging along the western shore of Woody
Isle as near as possible, paying attention to the soundings, which diminish
regularly on either side up to the entrance of the port. Following these
directions, if the wind be not contrary, and carrying short sail, you may
pass, without a pilot, the shoals on the western side near two isles, and reach
the entrance of the port.
If, after passing along the West coast of Woody Isle, the wind or other
obstacles prevent an advance, you may anchor in perfect security until the
weather becomes more favourable. In case a vessel may have entered the
bay, and the wind will not allow her to follow the foregoing route, and it
is absolutely necessary that she should reach the port, she will find a good
shelter very near Steep Cape, on the western side of the bay. In this case,
after nearing the Gorbun Rock, run directly for this cape, or to W. & N.,
until a remarkable jutting point bears W.N.W.; it is readily distinguished
on this low coast by its elevation, and its peaked form. As soon as Steep
Cape is passed, change the course towards the starboard, to anchor under
Toporkowa Island, from whence you may readily reach the harbour, either
under sail or by towing.
4
To enter the Harbour of St. Paul by the southern passage, steer for Cape
Pine; then, being near to this cape, which ought to bear N.W., distant a
mile or half a mile, run into the middle of the channel between Kodiak and
Woody Isle, carefully observing not to go into less than 18 or 20 fathoms
depth, steering directly for the islands before mentioned, and to the West
of Woody Isle, until the town of St. Paul is seen; you may then enter the
port itself, or rather anchor in the outer road. The best anchorage is under
Woody Isle, in 13, 14, or 15 fathoms, sand. Nearer the port the bottom is
of mud, but here you are not so well sheltered as under Woody Isle.
If you wish to enter the port under sail, you must take care of the con-
trary current, or have good cables; the breadth of the harbour not allowing
you to bear up, you must drop anchor when under way. In the summer it
would be better to anchor in the road, mooring in the direction of the tides,
the flood running to N.E. and the ebb to S.W. The starboard anchor
ought to be laid towards S.W., and the port N.E., having an open hawse
for N.W. and West winds, which blow strongly and in gusts. The tides
change regularly every six hours.*
* The ice company before alluded to was at San Francisco, and they leased from the
Russian-American Company the privilege of obtaining ice from St. Paul's. This concession
was the subject of a special clause in the treaty, and there is no doubt but that the place
will be fully utilized by the new proprietors for such an essential article. The ice was cut
496
COAST OF ALASKA.
Igatskoy or Ighakchi Bay. To the South of Cape Greville, or Tolstoy
(great) is Cape Tonkoy (small) of the Russian charts. It forms the N.E.
point of Igatskoy, Igakchi, or Ihak Bay, a deep inlet of 16 miles to the West,
but only 2 miles in breadth. There are some good harbours in it, especially
one lying in the S.W. part of it. In the bay the Russian-American Com-
pany had an establishment. In entering the bay keep close to the South
shore, the North is bestrewed with rocks.
Twelve miles to the South from Igatskoy Bay is Kiloudenskoy or Kiluden
Bay, where the company also have an establishment. It is properly com-
posed of two bays, either of which afford shelter.
In the S.E. part of Kodiak, to the South of the last-named bay, lies
Saltchidak or Siachladak Island, which is nearly 20 miles broad, S. W. and
N.E. Cape Barnabas of Cook is the N.E. point of this island.
Two-headed Point is on a small island, at 8 miles S.W. by W. † W. from
the S.W. point of Saltchidak Island, and is the northernmost of four isles
that must be doubled before entering the Port of the Epiphany. Epiphany
Bay is small, only a mile in circumference, and 60 yards in the opening.
The depth is 10, 8, 7, and 4½ fathoms, muddy bottom.
The southern point of Kodiak was called by Cook Cape Trinity. At 113
miles S. of Cape Trinity lie two isles, named by Cook Trinity Isles; they are so
close together that they might almost be considered as one island; together
they are 12 leagues in length, East and West, and 2 or 3 leagues from the
coast. On the Russian charts the eastern is called Sitchunak; the western,
Tugidak.
To the North of Cape Trinity is Alitok Bay, where the company have an
establishment; the westernmost point of Kodiak, Cape Ykolik, in 57° 14′ N.,
lies N.N.W. W. 38 miles from Cape Trinity; and at 18 miles N.E. of it is
the company's establishment, named Karlouk. It is from here that the
baïdares destined for the opposite shore depart, the strait of Chelighoff being
narrowest here.
At 12 miles to the North of Karluk is Ooujak or Ohiak Bay. It is a deep
indentation, extending 27 miles in a S.S.E. E. direction, the distance be-
tween its head and that of Kiludenskoy Bay, on the opposite side of Kodiak
being only 8 miles.
The N.W. point of Kodiak is in about lat. 57° 28', and 2 miles from this
point lies the extreme of North Island, which extends 15 miles N.N.W. and
E.N.E. This is separated by a narrow channel from Afognak Isle.
The northern coast of Kodiak, North Island, and the South part of
from an artificial lake, which had an area of about 40 acres. The labourers were all natives
of the Aleutian Islands, and were principally engaged for three or four months of winter
while the ice is firm, in cutting it up and storing it for summer consumption. From this it
was exported to every part of the Pacific.
CHELIGHOFF STRAIT.
497
Afognak, form a channel 20 miles long and 2 wide, in which 10 to 20 fa-
thoms water is found.
Chelighoff or Chelekhoff Strait.-Cook called the North entrance of Che-
lighoff Strait Smoky Bay. It separates Kodiak from the continent North of
the peninsula of Aliaska, and derives its name from the Russian com-
mander who first brought the inhabitants of the adjoining countries under
subjection.
In 1832 it was examined and surveyed by Mr. Wassilieff, an officer of the
Russian navy, in the service of the Russian-American Company. This
showed that the strait is narrower than was at first supposed.
Cape Douglas, which has been before described, is the north-west limit
of the strait. A great number of bays appear to offer good shelter; that
called Poualo, in lat. 47° 46′, long. 155° 0′ W., is 5 miles distant from
the great lake Nanouantoughat, from which the River Ougagouk flows. This
river has been adopted by Krusenstern as the northern limit of the penin-
sula of Aliaska.
The coast of the Peninsula beyond this is described in the next Chapter,
with those of the Sea of Behring which it encloses.
!
2 K
North Pacific.
( 498 )
CHAPTER IX.
THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS, BEHRING SEA.
THE extensive and inclement sea, whose eastern shores and islands are
described in the present chapter, derives its name from the celebrated navi-
gator who first sailed in it, and made known to Europe the real character of
the extremities of the New and Old Worlds.
The appellation of the Sea of Behring was first and justly applied to it by
Captain Golownin. This replaced those by which it had been improperly
designated, such as the Sea of Otters (Bobrovoïé), the Sea of Kamtschatka,
of Aliaska, or the Aleutian Sea.
The new Government of the United States may do something to develope
its resources, which hitherto have been confined to a few fur-trading posts
of the Russian-American Company, and therefore there has been but little
inducement for a more minute examination of its shores than that given in
the imperfect charts drawn up by Lütke and others. But the United States'
whale fishery in this sea, as presently mentioned, has afforded, in former
years, a most lucrative occupation for a large fleet. A brief account of the
progress of our knowledge of this distant region will also shew the degree of
authenticity our descriptions may claim.
The Russian Czar, Peter the Great, to whom the possession of the half of
a great continent still seemed not sufficient, drew up with his own hand,
shortly before his death, the instructions for a voyage whose object was to
ascertain whether Asia was separated from America by a strait, and then to
extend the Russian dominion beyond such a limit, should nature have thus
marked it.
But in the distant regions of this vast empire there were no means by
which such an exploratory voyage could be organized. They were therefore
sent from Russia. Vitus Behring and Alexoi Tschirikoff were chosen by the
Empress Catherine to execute this part of the will of her great partner and
predecessor in power. The two ships destined for this expedition were con-
THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS, ETC.
499
structed at Kamtschatka, the first of their kind that had been seen in this
the extremity of a land then scarcely known. They did not set sail from the
mouth of the Kamtschatka River until July 20th, 1728. Behring shaped
his course to the N.E., never losing sight of the Asiatic coast. On August
15th he reached lat. 67° 18' N., at a point (now Cape Serdze Kamen) where
the coast turned to the westward, from which he returned to the port whence
he sailed, without having seen the American coast. He had thus entered
the Icy Ocean without knowing it; he had solved the great problem, and
posterity has imposed the name of Behring upon this strait; the reality sup-
plying the place of the fabulous Strait of Anian.
Behring and Tschirikoff made a second voyage in 1729, but it yielded no
new information.
A third time did the same commanders set sail from Kamtschatka, June
4th, 1741; this time with the intention of making the American continent to
the eastward. Behring then sailed through the chain of islands skirting the
great peninsula of Aliaska. On August 29th he anchored at the Schumagin
Islands. In the course of the next month he discovered part of the Aleutian
Islands By this time the commander was ill and decaying. The greatest
part of the crew, too, were attacked by that frightful disease, scurvy.
Behring's ships and crew were reduced to the greatest distress by the
weather and sufferings they encountered. Worn out with these, they made
for the island now bearing his name; but the ship was stranded. On Nov.
9th the captain himself was brought on shore on a hand-barrow, and died
on December 8th, 1741. "He was a Dane by birth, and had in his youth
made voyages to the East and West Indies, when the glorious example of
the immortal Emperor Peter the Great for marine tempted him to seek his
fortune in Russia. It is a pity that it was his fate to end his life in such an
unfortunate manner. He may be said to have been buried half alive, for
the sand rolling down occasionally from the side of the ditch in which he lay,
and covering his feet, he at last would not suffer it to be removed, and said
that he felt some warmth from it, which otherwise he should want in the
remaining parts of his body, and thus the sand increased to his belly; so
that, after his decease, they were obliged to scrape him out of the ground, in
order to inter him in a proper manner."—(Müller.)
Tschirikoff's voyage was less unfortunate than his commander's; but he
scarcely had fewer hardships. He returned to Russia, after having explored
part of the American coast.
Such was the success of the first Russian expeditions. They were followed
at intervals by many others, among which the names of Glotoff, Synd,
Krenitzin, and Levacheff, stand most conspicuous.
Our great navigator, James Cook, entered the Icy Ocean, and ascertained
the exact nature of the continental separation first traversed by Behring in
August, 1778; and his second in command, Captain Clerke, after his sad
2 x 2
500
BEHRING SEA.
catastrophe at Hawaii, again penetrated to the icy barrier in July, 1779.
The abortive Russian Expedition under Commodore Joseph Billings, an
Englishman, made by order of the Empress Catherine II., in 1785 to 1794,
did not penetrate the strait, one great object of the expedition, after having
traversed the Sea of Behring. In 1817 Captain Otto von Kotzebue ex-
amined and named most of the points on the American coast of Behring
Straits.
The Asiatic coast, from East Cape to Kamtschatka, is amply described
from the admirable survey and examinations of Rear-Admiral Frederic
Lütke. In 1826 the Russian corvettes, the Moller, Capt. Stanikowitch, and
the Séniavine, under Capt. Lütke, were despatched to these seas, and ex-
amined almost the whole of the western shores, and to the account of this
voyage we owe our descriptions.
To our own country we are indebted for the accurate knowledge we pos-
sess of the American shores. This is from the memorable voyage of H.M.S.
Blossom, under Admiral F. W. Beechey, who minutely surveyed the eastern
shores of the strait in 1826-7.
The vessels employed in the Arctic searching expeditions in 1846-54, in
quest of intelligence of the party under Sir John Franklin, added something
to our knowledge of the Aleutian Islands and the northern harbours.
H.M.S. Herald, under Captain (now Admiral) Kellett, the Plover, under
Commander Moore, and the expedition in the Enterprise and Investigator,
under Captain (now Admiral) R. Collinson, in 1850, with others, may be
specially noticed. But the account of the progress of these noble efforts be-
long to other subjects.
The latest expedition to this remote land is probably the most wonderful of
all in its origin. Before the solution of the great problem solved by the suc-
cessful laying of the Atlantic Electric Telegraph Cable, in the summer of
1867, the importance of telegraphic communication between America and
Europe, led to the project started by Mr. P. D. Collins, of an overland con-
nexion from San Francisco, across Behring Strait, and thence through the
Russian empire to Western Europe. In 1865 the Western Union Telegraph
Company of America, the largest corporation of its kind in existence, com-
menced the explorations of the proposed line, which was to go from the
Fraser River to the upper course of the Yukon River, thence down its course to
Norton Bay; thence across to the Asiatic shore, down which it was to be
carried to the mouth of the Amoor River, to which the Russian Government
have completed their telegraph system. This gigantic undertaking was
placed under the command of Colonel Bulkley, U.S. army, and employed
several hundred explorers for nearly 2 years, who examined 6,000 miles of
country on both sides of the Pacific, and constructed a large portion of the
line. When the intelligence reached the parties of the success of the
Atlantic cable, this grand enterprise was at once abandoned, after an ex-
THE PENINSULA OF ALIASKA.
501
penditure of three millions sterling. The narrative of Mr. Fredk. Whymper,
who was attached to the Yukon party, is one of the most interesting works
on the Pacific, and has been before quoted in this work.*
The whale fishery, as before stated, is a very important feature of these
Arctic Seas. All the early voyagers speak of the vast abundance of fish of
all varieties, and specially of the whale. But it does not appear that this fact
was much utilized till California came in the ascendant, when Captain Boys,
in his ship Superior, penetrated the Arctic Ocean through Behring Strait,
in the summer of 1848. In that and the following two years three hundred
whale ships came here, and brought home oil and whalebone worth nearly
174 millions of dollars. Such a vast result could not be obtained for a series
of years, but still the fisheries of cod, halibut, salmon, as well as of the
whale, are of the greatest value.
Of the people and other subjects a few words will be given hereafter. But
it may be premised that the geographical descriptions are imperfect, and
cannot be trusted in the same degree as those which precede this, but this
is of the less importance, as these seas are rarely traversed except by those
who are more or less intimate with its navigation.
The PENINSULA of ALIASKA separates Behring Sea from the Pacific.
It is a remarkable tongue of land extending from the River Ougagouk,
mentioned on page 497, to the Strait of Isanotzky, separating it from
Ounimak, the easternmost of the Aleutian Archipelago, an extent of 330
miles; its breadth diminishing from 90 miles in the North to 25 miles in the
southern parts. Its name (signifying "the land") has been applied by the
Americans to the whole of their new territory.
From its configuration it may be regarded as a continuation of the Aleutian
Islands. The first authentic notice of its shores was that given in the account
of the third and disastrous voyage of Captain Cook, who examined, though
but very slightly, both sides of the peninsula at different points. The southern
side remained in the same imperfect state until the examination, previously
noticed, by Capt. Wassilieff in 1832. Its northern side, of which we shall
speak hereafter, is somewhat better known.
From the Bay of Poualo, the north-eastern limit of the peninsula noticed
above, Capt. Wassilieff's examination extended to a large bay in lat. 56° 40′,
and abreast of the Evdokeeff Islands. This bay has been named Wassilieff
Bay. The space between Poualo Bay and this point contains a great num-
ber of bays, and all along the coast are numerous islands, of which we have
no especial description.
The Evdokeeff Islands were discovered by Behring on August 4th, 1741,
and named by him in honour of the saint of the day. They form a group
* Travel and Adventure in the Territory of Aliaska, &c., by Frederick Whymper, London,
1868.
502
ALIASKA PENINSULA.
of seven islands, the three largest of which are called Simidin, Alexinoy, and
Ageach. Capt Golownin determined the position of the southernmost island
of the group as lat. 56° 0' N., long. 156° 22′ W.
A rock is marked on the charts to the S.W. of the Island of Simidin, in
lat. 55° 50′; evidently a different position to those recorded by Cook as
having been seen June 16, 1778, a cluster of small islets, or rocks, lying
about 9 leagues from the coast, which would be in about lat. 56° 3', and
long. 158° 0′ W.
St. Stephen Island, of small extent, is supposed to have been discovered
and thus named by Behring. Krusenstern places it in lat. 56° 10′ N., long.
155° 30′. There is some confusion here respecting the discoveries of Behring,
Tschirikoff, and Cook.
Oukamok or Tschirikoff Island was probably discovered by Vancouver,
April 4th, 1794, and named by him after the companion of Behring. It ap-
peared to form a somewhat irregular, four-sided figure, about 10 leagues in
circuit, having from its western part, which is low and flat, and which had
the appearance of being insular, a remarkably high, flat, square rock, lying
in a direction S. 66° W., at the distance of 2 miles, between which and the
island is a ledge of smaller rocks. Its S.E. parts, consisting of high, steep
cliffs; but on its western side, which is considerably lower, this appearance
was not so general.
SCHUMAGIN ISLANDS.-This group, which is the next considerable
collection West of the Evdokeeff group, according to Captain Lütke, is com-
posed of fifteen islands, and seven smaller islets. They received the name
of Schumagin (Choumaguine) from Behring, in memory of one of his sailors
who was buried here. The two largest islands of the group are Ounga and
Nagay. The first extends 12 leagues from North to South, with a breadth of
7 leagues; its northern extremity in lat. 55° 42'. Nagay Island, with a
similar direction, is 8 leagues in length. Besides the Ounga and Nagay
Islands, Sarytscheff names those of Kagai, Sajouliucktusigh, Nuinak, Tagh-
Kiniagh, and Kiuniutanany; all these, and several others not named, lie very
close together. Kagay Island, according to Sarytscheff, ought to be placed
in lat. 55° 5′ N., long. 160° 33′ W. The state of our knowledge respecting
this group may be summed up in a few words,-it is very imperfect and un-
satisfactory. There is no apparent analogy between the remarks of any two
observers. Under these circumstances we shall confine our extracts to that
of the Ounga Island, on account of the fact of coal existing on it.
Ounga is the largest of all, and the westernmost of the group. Accord-
ing to the observations of Stépanoff, of the Russian Company, its North
extreme is in lat. 55° 37′, that of its South part 55° 11', and its length about
26 miles. Its breadth is about half its length. This island is mountainous
and cliffy, particularly on its South coast, but the N.W. side extends in a
plain, which terminates in the low cape called Tonkoï. The island has three
SCHUMAGIN ISLANDS.
503
bays; the largest, Zakharovskaia, is on the N.E. side; it is open to the N.E.,
but the anchorages may be kept; here the vessels of the company formerly
wintered. The second, on the East side, penetrates considerably into the
land, but it has but very little water. On this bay stands a village, called
by the Russians Delarovskoi, and by the Aleutes, Ougnagak.
on the South coast.
The third is
On the West side of Zakharovskaïa Bay, there are, in two places, some
beds of coal, arranged in perfectly horizontal strata, at 100 yards above the
level of the sea. They have been worked.*
*
Between the Schumagin Islands and the western extremity of Alaska, the
coast is bordered with a large number of small islands. Admiral Sarytscheff,
who passed here, says in his journal that eight of them, of which he gives
the names, are larger than the rest.
Nanimak Island, nearly the westernmost, is 4 leagues to the North of
Sannagh (presently described). To the S.E. of it lie a quantity of small
islets and rocks above water. Animak, or Reindeer Island, lies 6 miles to
the North of Nanimak. To the S.E. and East of this island there is a
group of rocks and islets similar to those projecting to the S.E. from Na-
nimak Island. Lialiuskigh lies to the N.E. of Animak, at the distance of
14 miles.
Two islands, without names, lie at the distance of 3 miles from this; one
to the North, the other to the N.E. Kuegdogh lies to the East, 2 miles off
from the fifth island. Kitagotagh lies to the E.S.E., at the distance of 3
miles from the last-named island. Ounatchogh, 2 miles to the N E. of the
preceding; between these two last there is a high and pointed rock.
Cook passed these islands June 20th, 1778, and estimated their distance
from the coast at 7 leagues. Opposite to Ounatchogh Island, on the coast of
Aliaska, is a very lofty volcano, the summit of which fell, in 1786, during
an eruption. It is, perhaps, the same mountain that Cook saw emitting
smoke.
Sannak.-Sannagh, or Halibut Island, which is the westernmost of those
on the coast of Alaska, received its last name from Cook, on account of a
great take of that fish. It is separated from the coast by a channel 4
leagues in breadth. "This island is 7 or 8 leagues in circuit, and, except
the head, the land of it is low and very barren. There are several small
islands near it, all of the same appearance; but there seemed to be a passage
between them and the main, 2 or 3 leagues broad."-(Cook.) Halibut Head
is a round hill in the centre.
* The coal is a lignite of poor quality and not abundant. The seams have been worked,
and the produce used on board the Russian-American Company's steamers, but not to any
great extent. The place was visited by the United States' Telegraph Expedition in 1865.—
Mr. F. Whymper.
504
ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
The STRAIT of ISANOTSKOY, separating Aliaska from the Aleutian
Islands, was known to exist prior to 1768. It not only separates Alaska
from Ounimak, but it divides the latter from Ikatun Island, lying 3 miles
South of the S. W. point of Aliaska. The upper or northern part of the
strait extends for 12 miles N. W. and S. E.; its breadth does not any-
where exceed 4 miles. At its northern extremity, that is, between Alaska
and the N.E. point of Ounimak (behind which lies Krenitzin Bay), the
strait is not more than 2 miles broad; and moreover is obstructed by a large
number of banks. The N.W. entrance of this strait is extremely difficult,
on account of the sand-banks and currents which are felt during the ebb and
flood tides. That to the S.E. is very much easier, and the soundings do not
give less than 4 fathoms; but we have no authentic particulars of it.
The lower part of the strait, that is, the portion between Ounimak and
Ikatun, or Ikatok Island, is 8 miles long by 4 broad This breadth, how-
ever, is contracted by one half by Kitenamagan Island, lying half a mile from
Ikatun.
From the North end strait of Isanotskoy, the coast of Aliaska runs to
the north-eastward, in nearly the same direction as the southern coast of
that peninsula. This will be described presently, in connection with the
remainder of the coasts of the Sea of Behring. The Aleutian Archipelago,
forming, as it were, a broken continuation of the peninsula, will follow.
ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
It is to the celebrated Behring, as we have mentioned regarding the Ko-
diak Islands, that Russia owes the discovery of the Aleutian Islands. It
was during his return from the Coast of America in 1741 that he discovered
several of them, now known under the names of Semitsch, Kiska, and Amts-
chitka. In 1745 an enterprising merchant, named Basoff, made a voyage
hither in search of the sea otters. After this period they were more fre-
quently visited, and they daily became better known. The geographical
positions of the group we owe principally to the Russian Vice-Admiral Sa-
rytscheff, who accompanied Captain Billings in his expedition in 1791—2.
To Captain Cook, too, we owe some observations on this island, and some
others near it. Captains Golownin and Kotzebue, in the years 1817 and
1818, determined the position of some of their points. Captain Lütke has
given a long article upon this archipelago, from the observations of Lieut.
Tébenkoff, M. Ingheström, and several others, which in our general igno-
rance of this archipelago are valuable. Capt. Beechey has also added
slightly to our knowledge of them; and several other navigators, whose
names will be alluded to, have added something to the general stock.
The Aleutian Islands form a chain, which extends nearly East and West
FOX ISLANDS.
505
from the Isle of Attou, in long. 172° 45′ E., to the peninsula of Aliaska,
comprising an extent of 23° of longitude, and between 51° and 55° of N.
latitude.
They have been divided into several groups. The western or Blignie
group, is composed of four islands-Attou, Agattou, Semitsch, and Bouldyr.
Another group is named Kryci or Rat Islands; a third, the Andréanoff Isles ;
and the eastern group, the Fox Islands, because these animals are only
found on the islands composing that particular group.
On all these islands traces of volcanic action are evident. On many of
them there are volcanoes in activity, and some, as for example, Ounimak,
are subject to continual volcanic eruptions and shocks. The Fox Islands
exceed all others in height; the further we advance to the West the lower
they become.
The direction in which almost all the islands of the Fox
group lie, lengthwise, is S.W. to N.E.
They are low and narrow to the
N.E. But beyond the Island of Amkhitka, where the general direction of
the chain runs to the West, this law alters, and the S.E. extremities of
the island are lower and narrower, and their N.W. extremities higher
and broader.
The following description commences with the easternmost of the Archi-
pelago, and proceeds westward in succession.
FOX ISLANDS.
This group, extending from Ounimak to Amoukta, is the most important
of the Archipelago, commercially, on account of the produce of the chase
which is annually drawn from them; and, geographically, from their cen-
tral situation, and the ports they contain.
OUNIMAK is the easternmost of the group, and is separated from the
peninsula of Aliaska by the Strait of Isanotskoy. In a harbour in this strait
Krenitzin wintered in 1768. In 1826 Captain Beechey passed through the
strait separating it from the islands to the southward. He calls its S.W.
point Wedge-shaped Cape, before which lies a rock, and the narrowest part
of the strait is formed by the Isle Kougalga, Beechey making the distance 9
miles.
The southernmost point of Ounimak is called Cape Hitsou or Kithouk, or
Khitkhoukh; and, from its shape, by Captain Beechey, Wedge-shaped Cape.
From this southern cape the coast runs to the N.E. to Cape Lutke. The
S.W. point of the island is Cape Sarytscheff; before it is a large rock simi-
larly situated with respect to it as that of the southern cape,
It is about 65 miles long in a N. 52° E. and S. 52° W. direction, and its
greatest breadth about 25 miles. It is, so to speak, but the cover to a fur-
nace, continually burning; on the summit of this a high mountain chain ex-
tends throughout the island, having several spiracles. Notwithstanding the
་
506
ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
number of craters, this subterranean fire causes frequent earthquakes. The
highest of these summits, the Chichaldinskoi Volcano, or Mt. Shishaldin, was
measured by Captain Lütke as 8,935 English feet high. It is a regular cone;
and to the East of it is another, with a double summit. It stands nearly in
the centre of this island, in about 54° 45′ and 163° 59′. Mr. Whymper says:
“Chichaldinskoï has a very graceful form. Near it is a second mountain
of less elevation, with a jagged double summit, of very odd and irregular
appearance. Smoke was issuing (September 1865) from a large cleft
near the summit." At 6 miles from the S.W. side is another equally conical
volcano, called Pogrommoi, or Nosovskoi, which Kotzebue says is 5,525
English feet in height. The Issannakh Chain has also two high peaks
towards the N.E. extremity of the island. The whole of the mountain chains
are nearer the South than the North side.
A broad bed of gravel forms the N.E. extremity of the island, and a low
coast extends as far as the village of Chichaldinskoï without any shelter.
The village is two-thirds the distance from the N.E. extremity to a cape 3
miles East from Cape Mordvinoff. The N.W. extremity, Cape Mordvinoff
(Cape Noisak), is in lat. 54° 51′, long. 164° 29'. From Cape Chichkoff, which
is bluff and very remarkable, because the land on each side of it is very
low, to the West extremity of the island, Cape Sarytscheff, the coast forms
the base of the Pogrommoi Volcano. The latter cape is bluff, and of a
moderate height.
Rurick or Ounimak Strait, through which Kotzebue passed in 1817,
separates Ounimak from the Krenitzin Isles to the southward. Its narrowest
part, as before mentioned, is about 9 miles broad.
The currents are very
violent in it.
Although Rurick Strait is the widest and safest for traversing the Aleutian
chain from North to South, and vice versa, and also the most convenient
for passing into the northern part of the Sea of Behring, it is not so advan-
tageous for ships which, coming from the Pacific, are destined for Ouna-
lashka. Capt. Wrangel recommends the Strait of Akoutan, farther west-
ward, for this route.
Krenitzin Islands.-The islands next in succession to Ounimak are five in
number. The N.E. of them, called Kougalga, in reality consists of two
islands, Ougamok and Ouektok. There is a peak on the N.E. extreme of
Ougamok.
Tigalga, or Kigalga, or Tigalda, is the next to the S.W., and is about 4
leagues long, East and West. Its centre is in lat. 54° 5' N., and long. 165°
W. A small island, connected by a chain of rocks to Tigalda, lies off its
northern extremity. Tigalda is mountainous, and intersected by three
isthmuses. A great quantity of drift-wood is found on its coast, and coal is
found on the shore of Derbinskoï Strait.
Derbinskoi Strait separates it from Abatanok, and is remarkable among
THE ISLAND OF OUNALASHKA.
507
all the others for the extraordinary rapidity of the current and its strong
tide races.
Abatanok lies West of Tigalda, and is about the same size, and lies in the
same direction. At 2 miles West of the western point of Abatanok is the
small island of Aektok, or Goly (bare), which is about a league in circum-
ference, and lies 2 miles South of the South point of Akoun.
Akoun forms the S.W. portion of Rurick Strait, and lies to the West of
the Krenitzin Islands. It is about 14 miles long, in a N.E. and S.W. direc-
tion; its breadth is unequal. There are two small bays on it, one in the
N.E. part, the other in the N.W. part of the island.
The island is mountainous, and particularly cliffy on its N.E. and North
sides. On the South side of the island is a sort of column, which, seen from
the East or West, resembles a tower, or steeple surrounded by houses. On
its N.W. side is a smoking volcano, and near the village on the side of
Akounskoï Strait, are some hot springs.
Akounskoi Strait, separating Akoun from Akoutan, is not more that 2 miles
wide, is throughout bestrewed with rocks, and subject to strong currents and
tide races.
Akoutan lies half a league to the West of Akoun. It is large, mountain-
ous, of a round form, and having a diameter of 12 or 13 miles. It has no
good harbour; there are some coves on the northern coast, but they cannot be
serviceable to any but very small vessels.
With the exception of Ounalashka, it is higher than the neighbouring
islands. Nearly in the centre is an active volcano, measured by Captain
Lütke as 3,332 feet. The coasts are steep, particularly on the South side.
On the North they slope more gradually and evenly. Volcanic evidences
are everywhere abundant, and the fire from the crater was seen in Sept.,
1865.
}
The ISLAND of OUNALASHKA, which is the largest and the best known
of the Aleutian Archipelago, follows. It extends 70 miles from N.E. to
S.W. The S.W. extreme is in lat. 53° 13′, long. 167° 47′ W.; and the N.E.
part in lat 54° 1' N., long. 166° 22′ W.
The name here given as generally known to Europeans is a contraction of
Nagounalaska. It is the most important of the group, because it was the
residence of the chief of the section of the Russian Company's hunting
operations.
There are many deep bays on the coasts of Ounalashka, which have
nearly all been examined and surveyed by our navigators. The northern
shore has the greatest number, as for example:-Captain Bay, the Bay
of Otters, Illuluk Bay, Kaleghta Bay, and Samganooda Bay, visited by
Cook.
Captain Bay is formed by Capes Kaleghta and Wessiloffsky, which lie in an
E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction 9 miles from each other, and is about 13 miles
508
ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
to its southern part. The upper part of the bay contains three distinct
smaller bays, the eastern, northern, and western bays. The southern bay
has not much to recommend it; its entrance scarcely more than a quarter
of a mile broad.
The eastern bay bears the name of Port Illuluk, from the village of that
name, where the company had an establishment. Kotzebue says that it
would be the best harbour in the universe if the entrance to it was not so diffi-
cult; for a vessel entering Port Illuluk, if it should fall calm, would remain
exposed to the violent currents and squalls which often occur here. Oumak-
nagh Island forms the western side of the port, which, like the island itself,
has a N.E. and S.W. direction.
The port is in lat. 53° 52′ 25″ N., and long. 166° 32′ 0″ W. The establish-
ment of the port, 7h 30m; the highest tide observed, 7 feet 6 inches.
Kaleghta Bay, which lies next, to the eastward of Illuluk, is open and
deep, and only merits attention on account of a village of the same name at
its head. The Bay of Otters, or Bobrovaia, adjoins Kaleghta Bay on the
East, and is the largest of those which intersect Ounalashka, being 18 miles
deep in a N.E. and S. W. direction. Its breadth, as well at the mouth as the
rest of the bay, excepting the North part, is about 4 miles. Both shores of
the bay present a large number of small coves, of 2 or 3 miles deep, which
contain good anchorages; the rivulets which fall from the mountains afford
good water. The western part of the Bay of Otters is formed by a penin-
sula, which is the same land which forms the eastern side of Captain
Bay. At the extremity of this peninsula is Samganooda Bay, where Cook
anchored twice.
The Island of Ounalga, or Oonella, lies before Samganooda Bay, mentioned
before. Between it and the Island of Akoutan, to the N.E. of it, is the
Strait of Akoutan. Captain Wrangel recommends this strait to be preferred
for passing between the islands, because it leads directly to all the ports ly-
ing on the N.E. side of Ounalashka. This strait is 24 miles broad; but it
is somewhat narrowed by a chain of islets, Egg Islets, lying half a mile off
the N.E. part of Ounalga. Spirkin Island, which forms the eastern point
of the Bay of Otters, is 10 miles long in a N. E. and S. W. direction.
The Oudagagh Channel, which separates it from Ounalashka, is about a mile
wide, and 34 miles long, in a N. by W. & W. direction. The depth in it is
45 fathoms. At the N.E. end of Spirkin Island lies the small isle Ougalgan,
being separated by a clear channel about a inile long.
On the eastern side of Ounalashka is the small bay of Killiliak, which is
easily known by a remarkable cape, named Amtschitka, standing a little tɔ
the North of the entrance to the bay. Ounalashka here presents the appear-
ance of being divided into two parts. The bay is perfectly sheltered from
all winds.
Makouchinskoy Bay lies about the middle of the island, on the western side.
OUMNAK ISLAND.
509
It is 23 miles wide at its opening, and 11 or 12 miles long in an easterly
direction. The head of this bay approaches that of the Bay of Otters within
3 miles, and within 7 miles of Captain Bay, in such a manner that this por-
tion of Ounalashka forms a peninsula of 40 miles in circumference, composed
of high mountains, among which a very high volcano is to be distinguished.
OUMNAK ISLAND lies next West to Ounalashka, and, next to that
island, is the largest of the archipelago. The strait which separates them is
4 miles wide in its southern part; but this is diminished to one-half by
Tinginak Island, which lies in mid-channel; this renders the passage difficult
for large vessels. Outside the strait, at 5 miles to the South of Tinginak,
is a reef, which covers at high water.
Oumnak is nearly 20 leagues in length, in a S.W. by S. and N.E. by N.
direction. Its height increases in the same direction; and its North end is
composed of very high mountains, among which may be distinguished a very
high volcano, covered with eternal snow.
Upon the island are two active volcanoes, the first, Vcevidovskoi, is nearly
in the centre of the island, and is its highest point; the other, Toulikskoi, is
10 miles from the N.E. side. The S.W. extremity of the island, Cape Sigak,
lies in lat. 52° 50′, long. 168° 42'. A short distance from this the S.E. coast
forms some small open bays, one of which is called the Old Port, which is
somewhat sheltered from the South from seaward by a bank. Beyond this
is the Black Cape, projecting considerably into the sea, and forming the open
cove called Drovianaia (wood), on account of the great quantity of drift-wood
thrown on to it. Beyond this the coast runs nearly straight, and not very
high, to Vcevidovskaïa Cove, open to the South, before which lie the Vce-
vidovskaïa Islands, mentioned presently. Here the coast is low and sloping,
and thus extends to Gloubokaia (deep) Cove, into which a river discharges it-
self, abounding with fish. Farther to the N.E., beyond a mass of rocks 90
feet in height, inclining to the N.E., is the village Egorkovskoi, in a small
creek midway between Cape Sigak and Oumnak Strait. The neighbourhood
of the village affords great resources. A rude, sandy, and straight coast
surrounds this as far as the village Toulikskoi, lying in front of the islet
Tanghinakh, in the Strait of Oumnak. Near the S.E. coast there are many
reefs and banks.
The eastern face of the island facing Ounalashka is steep and rocky in some
places, but is not high. The North part is high, sandy, and even, frequently
intersected with ravines, but without a single remarkable inlet. The West
coast is mountainous, but not steep. On this side, at 8 miles from the S.W.
extremity, is the largest village of the island, Retchechnoi, standing on a small
hill between some lakes inland and the sea-shore. Nearly in the middle of
the West side of the island is the large but open bay called Ingakoadak.
On the S.E. side of the islands and in front of the Vcevidovskoï volcano
and the bay of the same name, are situated the small islands called, also,
510
ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
Vcevidovskies. They are six in number, and are 2 miles off the coast, the in-
terval being full of banks.
Oumnak, like the rest of the islands, is deficient of wood, some willow and
other bushes only growing on it. It is, next to Oumnak, the most subject
to volcanic eruptions. One feature is an evidence of this; it is the abundance
of hot springs, one of which resembles the Geysers of Iceland.
To the northward of Oumnak is a long reef, stretching for 26 miles in a
nearly North, true, direction, at the outer point of which is the Ship Rock, so
named by Cook, in the form of a tower.
At 200 fathoms within the Ship Rock is the small island of Joann Bogosloff.
It is of volcanic origin, and did not appear till 1796, after an earthquake.
The length of this small island, from N.W. by N. to S.E. by S., is 13 miles.
A chain of rocks projects 2 miles beyond its N.W. extremity, and another
a mile from its N.E. point. The peak in the centre of the island is 2,240 ft.
high.* This island, as before stated, is connected with Oumnak by a reef
of rocks, which doubtless owe their origin to a similar cause; for, in 1778,
Cook, and thirty years later Sarytscheff, sailed between the Ship Rock and
the Island of Oumnak.
To the westward of Oumnak is a group of four-or, according to Lütke,
five-volcanic islands, which bear the name of the Isles of the Four Moun-
tains; they are all very near to each other. The name of the S.W. isle is
Ouliaga; of the N.W. Tano; the N.E. is called Tschiganok; and that to the
S.E. Chagamil. The first and the last are the largest, being 5 or 6 leagues
in circumference.
H.M.S. Amphitrite, Captain Charles Frederick, R.N., passed between the
Four Mountains Isles and Younaska on June 28, 1853. The four islands
are very remarkable, having conical peaks from 3,000 to 4,000 feet high, and
were then covered with snow fully three-fourths of their height. The chan-
nel is 10 or 11 miles wide, and apparently free from danger; no soundings
at 15 fathoms, a rippling, but not a strong current.
Younaska.-To the S.E. of these islands is Younaska, which is about 5
leagues from N.E. to S.W. There is a high mountain in the centre of the
island. Tschegoula, or Tchougoul, a small island, lies West of Younaska
* Admiral Krusenstern adds the account of this phenomenon, from Mr. Baranoff, chief
of the American Company's establishment:-" In 1806, a new volcano appeared on one of
the Aleutian Islands. At the end of a month the flame ceased, but the smoke increased
considerably, and the island kept on increasing. In 1814 the island was formed by preci-
pices, covered with small stones, which were being continually ejected from the crater. In
1815, a second expedition found the island very much lower than in the previous year,
and its appearance entirely changed. The precipices had fallen, and were continually
crumbling away."
ANDREANOFF ISLANDS.
511
and near the N.E. point of Amoughta. It is of a circular form, and 3 miles
in diameter.
It seems as if formed of fragments of rock ready to fall down, and has no
landing place. At about a mile from it, in the direction of Amoughta, is a
small isolated rock.
Amoughta, or Amoukhtou, is the westernmost of the chain of the Fox
Islands. It is nearly round, and about 6 miles in diameter. Its centre is
mountainous, and its summit irregular. The coasts are low, but steep.
A short distance from its South end, a high column of rock rises above
the water.
The Channels between this group are those generally used by ships either
going or returning from the Sea of Behring. The Russian Company's ves-
sels generally preferred that of the Strait of Ounimak; but Capt. Wrangel
prefers the Strait of Akoutan, between that island and Akoun, as being
much shorter. In returning by this strait, with the prevalent S.W. winds,
you may run to the S.E. without being cramped by the coasts.
The Strait of Ounalga should not be used except in case of necessity,
on account of its narrowness, its strong currents, and its terrible tide
races, which, when the wind and waves oppose each other, are sufficient to
dismast a vessel.
The Strait of Akoutan is considered by Lütke the best to quit by. It is
2 miles broad between Akoutan and the five Tchaitchi (sea-mew) Islands,
which are of an oblong form, distant half a mile from the N.E. point of
Ounalga. Care should be take of these islands in coming from the south-
ward, as a mistake might be fatal.
ANDREANOFF ISLANDS.
This group extends from Segouam, or Sigouam, to Goreli, or the "Burnt
Island," as Lütke also calls the first-named island.
Segouam, or Goreli, according to the hunters, is the easternmost of the
group. It is intersected by a chain of mountains, divided into three masses,
smoke issuing at times from the central mass. In the N.E. part they rise
perpendicularly from the water. There are no dangers around it.
The Amoughta Channel, to the East of it, is clear, safe, and has similar
currents to the rest. The channel to the West, between it and Amlia, is
far from being as convenient.
From the extent of the latter island, and also that of Segouam, a barrier
of nearly 100 miles is opposed to the periodic current passing between them,
and consequently the water rushes violently from either side through the
strait, causing terrible and dangerous races.
Captain Henry Trollope, R.N., passed in H.M.S. Rattlesnake, between Se-
guoam and Amoukta, August 16, 1853, but without seeing land. He con-
512
ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
firms this account of the races in the channel. He says,
He says, "I never saw such
a confused tumbling sea, with appearance of overfalls, &c.; it washed away
one of the gangways, and broke on board several times.
Amlia, which succeeds Segouam, to the westward, is long and narrow, and
extends nearly East and West, true. Its length is about 40 miles. The
centre of the island is occupied with a chain of mountains, the greater part
of a conical form, but, compared with the others, of a moderate height.
There is no active volcano on it, and its shores are in general clear. The
West cape projects to N.N.W., and is in about lat. 52° 6. On the South
coast, about a mile from the West end, is a large open bay, and an Aleutian
village. At this part the island is not more than a verst (two-thirds of an
English mile) in breadth, but it is broader in the middle. The South side
forms several bays, but all are open save one, Svetchnikoff Harbour; this port
is 16 miles from the East extremity of the island, and penetrates 1½ mile to
the N.N.W., and is about half a mile broad. It is sheltered from seaward
by a small, narrow island, about three-quarters of a mile in length, North
and South, half a mile South from the East cape of the port; this space is
full of rocks, so that, to enter, this island must be rounded to West. Inside
there are 14 fathoms water, and farther inside, 6 to 4 fathoms, sandy
bottom. A high rock, lying South 82° East, at 9 miles from the en-
trance, and 24 miles from the nearest coast, will point out the situation
of this harbour.
The strait between Amlia and Atkha is not more than 1 mile broad, is
still further narrowed by some rocks, and cannot be passed by a sailing ves-
sel, on account of the furious currents.
ATKHA, or Atcha, is the largest and principal of this group. The length
of the island, from the S.W. extremity to the farthest point to the N.E., is
more than 50 nautic miles. And here we find the same feature so general
in the eastern group of a narrow and low S.W. extremity, enlarging and in-
creasing in height to the N.E. Like the Peninsula of Makouchin, on Ou-
nalashka, the North part of Atkha also forms a peninsula, crowned with high
mountains, the northernmost of which is the active and smoking volcano,
called Korovinskoi, lying on the North coast, and 4,852 English feet in
height. Seen from the N.E., it presents two summits, and on the North is
very steep, and the shore inaccessible. Four miles to the South rises the
volcano of Klutchevskoi, and not far from the N.E. extremity is another. The
base of the Korovinskoï volcano advances to the North into the sea, forming
a rocky escarpment, which is the North extremity of the island. To the E.
of this cape the coast trends to the S.E. On the other side it runs nearly
on the parallel without curvature to the N.W. extremity, called Cape Potai-
nikoff, and forms a low, even, flat point, and dropping perpendicularly. It
is thus called on account of a reef extending thence 2 miles to the W.N.W.
On the cape is a steep, conical volcano. From this the high and cliffy coast
ATKHA.
513
runs to the South, to the low and narrow isthmus of Sergheieff. Its West
extremity, Cape Korovinskaia, rises out of the sea in a steep cliff, with many
slips.
Korovinskaia Bay, which opens to the West, is formed by the large penin-
sula and the connecting isthmus. Two coves form the harbour of Korovins-
kaïa, which is perfectly sheltered, but has an extremely difficult entrance.
The outer bay is 64 miles broad in its opening. There is only anchorage
on the North side, in 14 fathoms, before the entrance to the harbour. It is
without danger in the fine season, but in autumn terrible gales, passing from
N.W. to N.E., occur, when a ship could not remain here; and at such times
the entrance is covered with breakers for several weeks together.
There is but one village upon Atkha, called Nikolskoi, on the South side of
the inner harbour of Korovinskaïa. It consists of a few houses for the em-
ployés of the Russian Company, a church, &c. It is in a low and damp
situation, and has many disadvantages. One great inconvenience of Atkha
is the extreme scarcity of provisions.
There are two coves on the South side of Korovinskaïa Bay. That nearest
to the isthmus is only worthy of attention from the fact that fossil wood is
found here, which may be an indication of coal. The other cove, Sarannaia,
is to the S.W. of the former, and is the only place where a ship can anchor
conveniently, and also may procure water.
*
At 6 miles S. 521° W. from Cape Iaïtchnoi, 2 or 3 miles off shore, is the
solitary island Soleny (salt); it is small, and not high, and between it and
the cape is the long Staritchkoff Reef. Beyond Cape Iaïtchnoi the North
coast of Atkha curves to the S.W., and forms several bays, which are open
and unimportant. To E. by S. of Soleny Island, and to the South of a cape
E. by N. from that island, is the deep bay of Gloubokaia, which, it is said,
affords excellent shelter.
Cape Tolstoi projects considerably into the sea. On its East side is an open
bay; on its West side is Koourovskaia Bay, extending first S.E. and then
E. by S. It is 24 or 25 miles from Korovinskaia Harbour, and, in fine
weather, is serviceable, but in bad or foggy weather its entrance is difficult.
And on the S.W. side of Cape Tolstoi is a conical peak, which rises high
and isolated near the coast; and between them, at some miles in the offing,
the islets which shelter the bay. Steer for the largest of them, and round
it carefully by the lead, and, when once it is doubled, the entrance is not
difficult. Near the cape lying near the conical peak, called for this reason
Podsopotchnoi (under the peak), is a sunken rock, which only breaks at times.
To avoid this, pass between the islands.
Kassatotchy Island, which bears N. 54° W. 9 or 10 miles from the mountain
on the S.W. extremity of Atkha, is an extinct volcano. It is a mountain
rising at once out of the sea; the crater on its summit is stated to be full
of water.
North Pacific.
2 L
514
THE ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
The Tchastie Islands, a group of small but high islands to the West of
Atkha, are thus called (tchastie, crowded) from their arrangement. There
are thirteen of different sizes, and six large isolated rocks. The island
nearest to Atkha is Oglodak, 34 miles distant. It is high, steep, and without
landing. These islands are said to be unapproachable, from the strong tide-
races and currents which rush through them.
Sitkhin Island, which, to distinguish it from another of the name to the
West, is sometimes called East Sitkhin, is in lat. 52° 4′ or 5', and about long.
176° 2′ (centre). It is about 25 miles in circumference, and in its centre is
a volcano covered with perpetual snow, which was ascertained by M. In-
gheström to be 5,033 English feet in elevation.
Adakh is a large mountainous island, but lower than Sitkhin; it is co-
vered with perpetual snow in some parts. Its North end is in about lat.
52° 4' 6". The bay on the North side is open, and there are others on
the N.E., South, and West sides; that to the South offers the best shelter.
It is separated by a small isthmus from the bay on the West coast. The
position and details of the island are very imperfect, as are also those of
the next island.
Kanaga, or Konniaga, is the island next West to Adakh, to which it is
similar in size, being 7 or 8 leagues in length, by half that breadth. The
northern part of this island is remarkable by a high smoking volcano, one
of the most lofty in the chain; the rest of the island is not very high.
Near to its western part is a small island bearing the name of the Isle of
Otters. These islands, however, are but incorrectly delineated and placed
on the charts.
Tanaga is separated from Kanaga by a channel 2 leagues broad, extend-
ing 8 leagues in a N.E. direction. It is about 11 leagues in extent, from
East to West, and 4 in breadth. It is easily distinguished by an elevated
volcano, which stands at its S.W. point. Near the point is a bay, which
Sarytscheff visited; the entrance may be about 4 miles broad, and is about
8 miles deep. At this distance, in the North part of the bay, the vessel in
which he penetrated anchored on a bottom of fine black sand, in front of the
entrance of two rivers. Watering is very easily performed in this bay, the
boats ascending the rivers without any obstacles.
It has a
It has a
At 6 leagues to the West of Tanaga is Goreloy or Burnt Island.
very high volcano, whose summit is covered with perpetual snow.
circumference of 6 leagues; and M. Ingheström considers this volcano, and
those on Kanaga and Tanaga, as the highest in the Aleutian chain.
South of this is a small group, the chief of which are the two small Dé-
laroff Islands, which, with those South of it, form the westernmost of the
group of the Andréanoffsky Islands. They are mentioned by Sarytscheff as
being 16 miles S.W. of the S.W. point of Tanaga. He found the passage
between quite clear.
KRYCI OR RAT ISLANDS.
515
At some distance East of the eastern islet are two rocks. At about 15
versts from these rocks, or 40 versts S.S.W. from Goreloy, is a third island,
Kakhvalga; and 10 or 12 versts to the West of the latter is Ounalga, a low
island. Ulak, also low, and the largest of all, is to the South of Tanaga.
Amatignak and Illak are also two small isles to the South of these again.
The southernmost, Amatignak ("a chip" in Aleute), is the larger of the
two, and the highest of all.
KRYCI OR RAT ISLANDS.
The islands next West of the foregoing are included by Lütke and others
under the above denomination.
Semisopochnoi.-At 16 or 17 leagues West of Goreloy or Burnt Island is
the Isle of the Seven Mountains. The name (Semisopochnoi) is significant of
its character. It is of a circular form, and is 10 leagues in circumference.
According to M. Ingheström, its lat. is 51° 59′, and its long. 180° 14′ 3″
West. The mountains do not exceed 3,000 feet in height. One of the
mountains in the North part sends forth smoke, The North and East sides
have a wild and desolate aspect; on the South and West there are several
green spots. The shores are in general clear.
The strait between Semisopochnoi and Goreloy is the best for crossing the
Aleutian chain. It is safe throughout, is no: less than 45 miles broad, and
is not subject to tide races.
Amtschitka is a large island; it is not very hilly, and extends about 11
leagues N. 72° W. and S. 72° E. Near its West point are two small islands,
the larger of which is called Rat Island, a name, as above mentioned, which
has been extended to the whole group. Behring probably saw this island
on October 25th, and gave it the name of St. Marcian (Markiana). He says
it was moderately high, and covered with snow.
The island is about 35 miles in length, E.S.E. E. and W.N.W. W. by
compass. It is low, and is not more than 4 miles wide at the S.E. part, but
is broader and higher in the N.W. Its S.E. extremity forms a peninsula,
on which a hillock rises, and from it a reef extends for 2 miles. The South
coast runs nearly in a straight line, without any bays or coves. At about a
third the length of the island a chain of moderately high mountains rises,
and falls again toward the N.W. extremity, where it forms a low but steep
cape, called by the Aleutes Satanna, or Bird's Cape.
On the North side of the island, at 10 miles from its East end, is Kiri-
lovskaia Bay, the only place in the island where you can stay at anchor. This
anchorage is somewhat sheltered from seaward by a reef off its middle,
which requires caution in entering; there are also some reefs on either side
of it. It is dangerous to remain here in autumn or winter, when northerly
2 L 2
516
THE ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
gales are prevalent. The lat. of the bay is 51° 27' 1", long. 180° 40′ 6" W.
High water occurs about 10 o'clock, at full and change.
To the N.W. of Amtschitka are the Tschegoula Isles, a group of four small
hilly islands, which extend about 6 leagues East and West. One of these is
called by Lütke Little or West Sitkhin, another is named Dawydoff.
Kryci, RAT, or Ayougadagh Island, which gives its name to the group, is
7 miles long, mountainous, and in lat. 51° 45', long. 180° 40′ W.
Kiska, a hilly island, with the exception of its eastern part, which is low,
lies to the West of the preceding. Its length, North and South, is 25 miles.
A rock, in the form of a column, lies 3 miles N.W. of the island. Behring
saw it October 28th, 1741. He named it St. Stephan. According to M.
Ingheström, there exists to the East of Kiska, at 1½ mile distant, a small isle,
which he calls Little Kiska; and three miles from this, in the same direction,
the small island Tannadagh, and a rock. He also mentions some rocks,
which do not uncover, between the islands Bouldyr and Kiska, at the dis-
tance of 5 leagues from the former. Capt. Lütke, however, considers this
position as doubtful.
Bouldyr lies to the W.N.W. of Kiska. It is a hilly island, surrounded
by peaked rocks, which extend to half a league beyond the S.W. point of the
island. It is about 4 leagues in circumference, and two large rocks exist at
the western part of the island.
BLIJNI GROUP.
This group, composed of two islands and a collection of separate rocks, is
called Blijni (the nearest), because it is the nearest to Kamtschatka, of the
Aleutian chain. The discovery belongs to Behring.
Semitsch forms a portion of this westernmost group of the Aleutian
Islands. It consists of two small islands half a league apart, and extending
E.N.E. and W.S.W. 6 or 7 miles. On the charts of Sarytscheff and the
Russian Admiralty a group of rocks was inserted, as lying 16 leagues to the
East of the Isle of Attou. Their distance from the N.E. extremity of the
Semitsch Islands is estimated at 5 leagues in a S. 79° E. direction, but their
position is very doubtful.
Agattou, to the South of the Semitsch Islands, according to Sarytscheff,
has a circumference of 34 miles. It is separated from Attou by a strait of
15 miles wide.
ATTOU is one of the largest of the Aleutian Islands. Its eastern extreme
lies 6 leagues W.S.W. from the Semitsch Islands. According to Captain
Golownin's observations in 1808, it is 27 miles in length East and West;
but Admiral Sarytscheff makes it 48 miles long. In the S.E. part of the
island is a bay called Massacre Bay. It is about 3 miles wide, and midway
BEHRING SEA.
517
between the two outer capes is a group of small islets and rocks, within
which there also appears to be a low reef, and another lies outside them,
half a mile to the S. W. Lieutenant Etolin discovered on the North coast of
Attou an excellent bay, which he called Tschitschagoff Bay, where the Russian-
American Company had an establishment. It is in lat. 52° 56′, and 9 miles
from the eastern point of the island.
This is the western extremity of the Aleutian chain, which forms the south-
eastern limit of the Sea of Behring. The two islands lying near the coast
of Kamtschatka, Copper, and Behring Islands, 180 miles to the N. W., 'might
almost be considered as a continuation of the chain, but, as they are more
connected with the western coast, they are described hereafter in connexion
with it.
Attou is the westernmost of the islands ceded by Russia to the United
States, being so mentioned in the treaty.
The territorial division passes midway between it and Copper Island, and
then in a straight line to the middle of Behring Strait.
BEHRING SEA.
The extensive landlocked sea which bears the name of its great discoverer
has been alluded to in the introduction to this chapter. Although very re-
mote from ordinary commerce, its eastern part has been frequently traversed
by navigators competent to describe its features. Of these Adms. Beechey,
Kellett, Collinson, Captains Moore, Trollope, and others may be cited as
having aided in composing the chart. The one great physical feature is the
extensive bank of soundings which stretches off for 250 to 350 miles from
the American coast, affording an immense anchoring ground for the whaling
fleet which frequents its waters. The eastern side, with which we are less
acquainted, is apparently deeper, causing a great difference in the mode of
whale-fishing; to the eastward, the animal plunging into the mud in shoal
water; to the westward diving to great depths.
The whale-fishery has been mentioned in the introductory remarks to this
chapter. But, in addition to their primary pursuit, the whalemen were all
more or less traders, and by their traffic with the natives of the more distant
ports and places, so far interfered with the exclusive privileges of the
Russian-American Company, that the question was made one of justice to
the Russians, that the United States should extinguish this privilege by the
payment of a sum of purchase money.
The shallowness of the northern part of the sea, and of Behring Strait, has a
marked effect on its physical condition. It will not allow of any floating
icebergs drifting southwards from the Arctic Sea; the current generally sets
northward, so that its climate, though severe, is not so inclement as a
518
BEHRING SEA.
region in a corresponding latitude on the opposite side of the American
continent.
The American side all belongs now to the United States, as before men-
tioned, being included in the Alaska territory. And our task is rendered
somewhat difficult on account of the recent changes of masters, which may
induce other changes of which we have received no account.
The PENINSULA of ALIASKA,* whose south-eastern coast has been
previously described, forms, with the Aleutian Archipelago, the southern
limits of Behring Sea, or, as it has been sometimes called, the Sea of
Kamtschatka. The description is therefore resumed at the point where
the former left off, namely, at the Strait of Isanotzkoy. The charts are
imperfect.
Point Krenitzin appears to be the first prominent point to the northward.
It is the extremity of a low bed of gravel, and is the N.W. point of an open
bay, on the East side of which is the village Morjovskoi (Morses). This vil-
lage stands on low, marshy land, intersected with numerous lakes.
Izenbek is the next port in proceeding northward. Its S.W. point, Cape
Glazenap, or Mitkoff, is in lat. 55° 14′ 8″, and long. 162° 50'.7. This cape is
very remarkable by a considerable elevation, and by its form; at a distance
it is like an island separated from the low land to the South of it. The
mouth of the bay is filled up by a long and very low island. Its South
point is about a mile distant from Cape Glazenap, and its North point above
2 miles from Cape Moffet. The depth in the South entrance was found to
be 4 and 5 fathoms, bottom of fine black sand. It was considered that
Izenbek Bay would offer anchorage.
Imak or Aamak Island lies off this part of the coast. It is an extinct vol-
cano, covered with calcined stones and lava. It is rather less than 4 miles
in length, in a N. 17° W. and S. 17° E. direction. Its South extremity is
in lat. 55° 25′, and long. 163° 1′ 30″. At 2 miles N.W. by compass from its
North end is a rock called the Sivoutchy (or Sea-lions) Rock. Between the
island and the main the depth is from 9 to 14 fathoms.
The coast to the northward presents nothing very remarkable. It trends
first N.E. and then E. For a distance of 50 miles there are only two capes,
Leontovitch and Leskoff, somewhat higher than the rest. In this space there
is much drift-wood. Cape Leontovitch is low, but is the most conspicuous,
as beyond it the coast trends more to the East.
Cape Rojnoff or Roshnoff, which is at the extremity of the extent of coast
above alluded to, is very low; and at 13 mile from it is the western point of
Kritskoi Island, also very low; the two form the entrance to a shallow bay,
* Captain Lutke says, that in spelling this Aliaska he follows the orthography generally
adopted in the colonies. It was sometimes previously spelt Aliaksa. The natives pro-
nounce it „lliakskha; so that both modes are right or wrong.
MOLLER BAY.
519
which runs in to a low isthmus, not more than 5 versts in breadth, sepa-
rating it from Pavlovskaia Bay, on the South coast of Aliaska. The chain
of mountains which extends through the peninsula is interrupted in this
part. The rise of the tide is 15 feet, and the (approximate) time of high
water is 7h 30m.
MOLLER BAY is a large indentation of the land, which narrows the
peninsula to 12 miles in breadth at this part. A large portion of this bay is
filled with shoals, which uncover at low water; but in its S.E. angle is a
small cove, where there is sufficient water for every description of vessels.
This is the only port which exists on all the North coast of Aliaska. It is
about a mile in length and breadth, with from 4 to 8 fathoms, muddy bot-
tom. In entering it you must range close to the bed of the gravel, to avoid
a shoal, which is less than a mile from it; and as soon as you have made
out this bed of gravel, steer for a point on the East side of the port, which
is particularly remarkable by its blackish colour, and which lies about 14
mile N.E. by E. by compass, from the extremity of the gravel bed. The
mountains, which are of a moderate height, advance here to the coast,
leaving no room for the mossy plains which generally occupy the space be-
tween the foot of the mountains and the sea-shore.
0'
The bay is about 6 miles wide in its opening. Its entrance on the West
side is formed by the East point of Kritskoi Island, which was determined to
be in lat. 56° 0′ 7", and long. 160° 41′ W. The extremity of the bed of
gravel which forms the port is 7½ miles to the S.E. by E. (by compass) from
this. Kritskoi Island is very low, and extends 9 miles along the coast in
an E. by N. direction. Opposite its West end is Cape Rojnoff, before
mentioned.
From Moller Bay the coast trends to the N. by E., and at 20 miles distant,
is Cape Koutouzoff. This cape is high and abrupt, and 13 miles N.E. from it
is Cape Séniavine, also high and steep, the space between being low. Cape
Séniavine is in lat. 56° 23′ 45″, and long. 160° 2′ 45″ W.
The coast beyond this offers nothing remarkable for a considerable dis-
tance. It consists of a low, level, mossy plain. At about 9 leagues from
Cape Séniavine a low bed of gravel commences, which extends in front of
the coast for 10 miles. Beyond this the low level coast extends 10 miles
further to Cape Strogonoff. This is extremely low, and projects 2 miles to
the North.
Comte Heiden Bay (or Houdobin Bay) is formed by the low Cape Strogo-
noff to the westward. Before this cape is an islet, equally low, called on the
chart Chestakoff Islet, and between this islet, or rather between the shoal off
its North end and the coast of the continent, is the entrance of the bay,
which extends 6 miles to the S.E., and the opening is 24 miles broad.
From this the coast, equally low, uniform, and covered with moss, trends
520
BEHRING SEA.
to the N.N.E. In lat. 57° 5' are two moderately high capes, terminating to
seaward in sandy downs.
Cape Menchikoff (named after the Prince) is in lat. 57° 30′.4, and long.
157° 58'.5. It consists of a mound of sand, with marshy land surrounding
it on all sides. At 8 miles N.E. from this is the mouth of the River Ougat-
chik, or Soulima, which is 2 miles broad. The depth in its entrance is from
10 to 18 feet at low water. The North point of its mouth is named Cape
Greig, after the Admiral. It is high and steep; its lat. is 57° 43′, and long.
157° 47′.2, and is surrounded by sand-banks, dry at low water. From this
the coast trends, low, level, and straight, in a general N. 17° E. direction to
the mouth of the Agougak River.
The River Agougak, or Ugagouk, Krusenstern considers to be the
northern limit of the Peninsula of Aliaska, as it really separates Aliaska
from the continent of America. It rises in a lake called Nanouantoughat,
which is only separated from the Strait of Chelighoff by a neck of land 5
miles in breadth, at the back of the Bay of Pascalo. Over this space is a
portage for the merchandise collected by the Russian-American Fur Com-
pany at the establishments in Bristol Bay, which was thus transported, by
means of the river, to the head-quarters at Sitka.
Cape Tschitchagoff, on the North side, is bluff without being high, and sur-
rounded for 2 miles distant by shoals.
From this cape a level marshy coast succeeds. Its aspect is most extraor-
dinarily monotonous, for 30 miles in a N.E. by N. direction. Cape Souvoroff,
which is at the distance above named, forms the North point of the mouth
of the River Nanek or Naknek. This river, flowing from a lake of the same
name, traverses the Peninsula of Aliaska. At its mouth it is about two-
thirds of a mile in breadth, and there are 2 fathoms water in it. On each
side of the mouth are villages. That to the right is Koutchougoumut, that to
the left Paougvigumut. The position of the latter, which is a Russian estab-
lishment, named Souvoroff, was ascertained to be in 58° 42′ 5″ N., and 157°
0' 30" W. The River Nanek abounds with an extraordinary quantity
of fish.
BRISTOL BAY.-The coast we have been describing forms the southern
portion of the coast of the bay, that was named by Captain Cook after the
Admiral, the Earl of Bristol.
Cape Newenham forms the northern point of this bay, and Cape Ounimak,
the western point of the island of that name off Aliaska, may be taken
as its southern limits, and which lies 82 leagues to the S.S.W. of Cape
Newenham, so that the N.W. coast of Aliaska forms the southern part of
Bristol Bay.
This bay contains another inner bay, which is formed by a promontory,
named Cape Constantine, and within which three rivers debouch.
The
CAPE NEWENHAM.
521
northernmost of these is the Bristol River. The Ouglaghmoutes (as the
natives of the bay are called) give it the name of Quitshak or Kvichak.
The third river which enters this inner bay, to the West of the Bristol
River, is called the Nouchagak or Noushagak. Its course is in a N.N.W.
direction. The opening formed on the North by the coast, and by Cape
Constantine on the South, may be taken as its mouth, which is 20 miles
broad, and preserves this breadth to the distance of 30 miles; it then turns
rather more to the eastward, and its breadth begins to diminish. In lat. 58°
57′ the river is still 3 miles broad, and it is here, on the left bank, that the
Russian Company founded an establishment, called Fort Alexandroffsk. A
bank, 15 miles in length, lies before this establishment; and it is between
this bank and the main land that there is a passage to the road of Alexan-
droffsk. The tides are very strong in the river; they rise 23 feet in the
summer months, and 47 feet in the autumn. The ebb-tide runs from 4 to 5
miles an hour.
The extremity of Cape Constantine is in lat. 58° 29′ N., and 158° 45′ W.
It is surrounded by sand-banks to the distance of 4 leagues to the south-
ward. In general, all the coast between the mouths of the Nouchagak and
Bristol Rivers is bounded by similar sand-banks. The eastern point of this
bay, forming this entrance, is named Cape Etoline. The bay itself is called
Khramtschenko Bay, after the Russian surveyor.
From Cape Constantine the coast takes a westerly direction, and forms,
with Cape Newenham, an extensive bay of 35 leagues in extent, into which
the two rivers, Kululak and Tujugiak, discharge themselves. There are
several islands in this bay. Cook only saw the easternmost, which he named
Round Island. It is an elevated hill, about 7 miles from the continent. At
the distance of 20 miles to the West of Round Island is a larger one, about
50 miles in circumference, which has been named Hagemeister Island, after
the captain of that name, who was for some time commander of the Russian
Company's colonies here. Between this point and Round Island there are
four other islands in a N.E. direction. Lieut. Khramtschenko passed be-
tween these islands, and between the main land and Hagemeister Island.
This channel is about 8 miles in length, and it may be passed through
either from the North or South; the anchorage in it is safe throughout.
CAPE NEWENHAM is 5 leagues to the West of this bay. It was seen
by Captain Cook, July 16th, 1778. It is a rocky point of tolerable height,
situated in lat. 58° 42′, long. 197° 36′. Over, or within it, are two elevated
hills, rising one behind the other. The innermost, or easternmost, is the
highest.
Off the westernmost point of the cape there is a small island, according to
the Russian charts, named Sea Lions' Island. From Cape Newenham the
coast trends to the northward, as before stated, and here commence the
sand banks and shoals lying before the mouth of the great river Kuskowime,
522
BEHRING SEA.
or Kouskoquim, which discharges itself into the sea in lat. 59° 50′, and which
was explored by Lieuts. Khramptschenko and Etoline.
To the N.E. of Cape Newenham is Tchagvan Bay, 4 miles long and 3
broad. It is 2 cables' length in width at the entrance, the sides of which are
lined with shoals.
The Bay of Good News is 16 miles to the North of Tchagvan Bay. It was
reached by the land expedition of Oustugoff and Korsakoff in 1818-19. If
it received its name from the reports gathered of some white-bearded men
on the banks of the Kvikhpak River, it would be more properly called the
Bay of False Alarms. It was examined in 1821 by M. Etoline. From his
observations, the extremity of the gravel bed, which bounds the opening of
the bay to the North, is in lat. 59° 3′ 9″, long. 161° 53'. Cape Newenham
bears S. 24° W. 24 miles from it. It penetrates 8½ miles in an E.N.E. di-
rection, and is 5 miles broad. Its shores are surrounded with shoals, so
that there is only good anchorage in the middle, and that not too far in. In
entering keep on the North side.
NUNIWACK ISLAND* was discovered by Capt. Wassilieff in 1821. It
is to the N.W., and 40 leagues distant from Cape Newenham. It is 70 miles
in extent from East to West, and about half that in breadth. Its N.E. ex-
tremity is in lat. 60° 32′ N., long. 165° 30′ W.; and its S.E. point is 60° N.,
and 165° 3′ W. A channel, 20 miles in breadth, separates it from the con-
tinent, which here forms a large cape in lat. 60° 44′ N., long. 165° W., dis-
covered by M. Etoline, to which he gave the name of Cape Vancouver, and
that of Cook to the strait.
Its N.E. extremity lies 18 or 19 miles to S. 82° W., true, from Cape
Vancouver. Its West extreme, which forms a moderately high, steep cape,
is in lat. 60° 13'. From this the coast on one side trends to E.N.E., and on
the other to S.E. by compass. In approaching it from the West, the island
presents a level coast, not high, and terminating to seaward in reddish
cliffs. There are several places where anchorage may be found; but the best
place is in the strait on the continental side, where the depth is 6 to 8
fathoms, gravel bottom.
Cape Avinoff, the S.E. limit of this strait, is in lat. 59° 42'. It is not
high, but at a distance resembles an island. It is surrounded by shoals
to the distance of 7 or 8 miles, so that it cannot be approached even in a
boat within this distance. This bank lines the coast as far as Cape Van-
couver itself.
CAPE ROMANZOFF, or Roumiantsoff, was thus named after the great
* Nuniwack, or, as it is otherwise spelt, Nounivak, or Nounivok (Lutke), was so named by
the company's officers, Etoline and Khramtschenko, who, simultaneously with Wassilieff,
discovered it in 1821, after the native appellation. The latter called it, from his ship,
Discovery Island, but the first name is far the best.
THE YUKON RIVER.
523
statesman by MM. Khramptschenko and Etoline, although Capt. Schisch-
mareff had already seen it two months previously, that is, in June, 1821. It
forms the western extremity of the vast and marshy delta of the Yukon or
Kwuh-pak River. M. Etoline determined its lat. as 61° 53′; M. Khramts-
chenko as 61° 50′ 5″; and its long. was deduced as 166° 28'. It is thus about
$5 miles N.W. from Cape Vancouver. It is high and bluff, and in the mid-
dle of August was still partly covered with snow, which well distinguishes
it from the low and sandy shores to the North and South of it. It is en-
tirely free from wood, like the adjacent coasts. Seen from a great distance,
it shows like islands.
The YUKON or KWICH-PAK RIVER is one of the largest of North-
West America; yet our knowledge of its existence dates from very recent
times. Its character was first made known to Europe by the Expedition in
1850—1, and one of Captain (now Admiral) Collinson's officers, Lieutenant
Barnard, was killed at Nulato by the natives, in ascending it. But the offi-
cers of the Russian-American Company first ascended it in 1835. Derabin
went from Norton Sound to the river in 1839, and in 1842 commenced the
Fort at Nulato, which long bore his name. It was visited in the same year
by Lieutenant Zagoskin, I.R.N., who made many observations here.
The Yukon or Kwich-pak (pronounced Kwif-pak, both words signifying
"big river"), is an immense stream. At Nulato, 600 miles above its mouth,
but only 50 miles from the head of Norton Sound, the river is from 14 to 4
or 5 miles wide, and it has been ascended, still as a large stream, for 1,800
miles. Its tributaries would be large streams in Europe. But all this mag-
nificence of nature seems doomed to be almost useless to man.
At one period it was of the greatest interest to civilization. It was selected
by the Western Union Telegraph Company as the route by which the tele-
graph wires were to connect the New and the Old World; and, as before
stated, this gigantic enterprise had far advanced, when in 1867, the success
of the Atlantic cable led to its sudden abandonment, an event which caused
so much sorrow in those employed on it, that they hung black cloth on the
telegraph poles at Unalachleet, in Norton Sound, and put them into
mourning.
Mr. Frederick Whymper's admirable work on his travels in Alaska, and
on the Yukon, will give many most interesting particulars of this enterprise
and of the river.*
The Yukon enters Norton Sound by many mouths, forming an extensive
delta. The turbid waters have so filled up the head of the sound, that
it is very shallow, and the water is fresh ten miles out to sea.
The various entrances were examined by Mr. E. Everett Smith, attached
to the telegraph party, and he found that the southern mouth, the Roosilvac,
*See also Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, vol. xxxviii, 1868, pp. 219-236.
524
BEHRING SEA.
gave from 2 to 9 fathoms, but the entrance to it is far out. The interme-
diate marks to the North are too shallow, and the Aphoon Mouth, in lat.
63° 10′ N., long. 164° 5′, is the only available one.
These mouths are gene-
rally blocked with ice till June 1st. At this mouth is Pastolik, a village famous
for the manufacture of skin boats.
The coast trends to the N.E. beyond Pastolik, and terminates at Stuart
Island, when it turns to the southward towards Fort Michaelovski.
Stuart Island lies in lat. 63° 35′. It is 6 or 7 leagues in circuit. Some
parts of it are of a moderate height; but in general it is low, with some
rocks lying off the western part. The coast of the continent is for the most
part low land, but high land is seen up the country. It forms a point oppo-
site the island, which was named by Cook Cape Stephens, and lies in lat. 63°
33′, long. 197° 41′. Some drift-wood was seen upon the shores both of the
island and of the continent, but not a tree was perceived growing upon
either.
The inhabitants of Norton Sound are entirely dependant on this drift-
wood, brought down by the great river Yukon, and which is found on almost
every part of its shores.
St. Michael's Island, to the S.E. of Stuart Island, is 50 miles north-
eastward from the Aphoon Mouth. It can scarcely be called an island, as it
is separated from the main only by an insignificant canal.
Chaktolimout Bay, called by Cook Chacktoole, is an open bay to the north-
ward of Michaelouski, between Capes Denbigh and Stephens. It is sur-
rounded by a low shore, where the water is so shoal that, as before mentioned,
there is no passage for ships between Besborough Island and the main,
though it is 6 or 7 miles off it.
Tebenkoff Cove.-On the North side of Cape Stephens, at 11 miles to the
East of the North extremity of Stuart Island, is a cove discovered by Lieut.
Tébenkoff, in 1831. It penetrates 1½ miles to the S.S.W., and is closed on
the South by a small low island, on each side of which is a strait. The bay
is not more than a mile broad. At its West extremity are two islets, very
close to the coast. As far as the middle of the bay there are 21 to 24
feet of water. The anchorage under the West side, opposite the village,
is only exposed to N.N.W. and N.E.; but even with these winds there is
no heavy sea.
FORT MICHAELOVSKI is on the West side, South of the villages.
H.M.S. Herald came here in September, 1848, and Dr. Seemann thus de-
scribes the place. The Fort of St. Michael, or Michaelofskoi, belongs to the
Russian-American Fur Company, and supplies two other trading posts,
situated some distance in the interior. It stands on a little tongue of land,
on the South shore of Norton Sound, in lat. 63° 21′, long. 161° 51′ W., and
is built in the form of a square, composed of trunks of trees, which are laid
horizontally over each other, in the manner of the American block-houses.
FORT MICHAELOVSKI.
525
At each angle is a watch-tower, with loopholes; within the walls are the
various store and dwelling houses; close by, a chapel, consecrated to the
rites of the Greek Church; and at a short distance a windmill for grinding
corn. Grain is imported by way of Sitka, St. Michael's itself not producing
it, nor indeed any cultivated vegetables, except a few turnips. About four
hundred yards from the fort is an Esquimaux village, the inhabitants of
which are a much finer-looking race than the more northern tribes. The
country adjacent is, like the greater part of the arctic regions, a vast
moorland.
Mr. Frederick Whymper came here with the telegraph party in 1865, and
he says of it :-"It is situated on the S.E. side of the island of the same
name, and was founded in 1833, by Michael Tébenkoff, an energetic employé
of the Russian Fur Company.
"The station is built on the model of a Hudson's Bay Company's Fort,
with enclosure of pickets, and with bastions flanking it. Inside are the
store-houses and dwellings of the employés, including the 'casine' (caserne),
or general barrack, bath, and cook-houses. These painted yellow, and sur-
mounted by red roofs, gave it rather a gay appearance.
“The inhabitants of the fort-all servants of the company-were a very
mixed crowd, including pure Russians and Finlanders, Yakutz, from Eastern
Siberia, Aleuts, from the islands, and creoles from all parts. They were
not a very satisfactory body of men; in point of fact, it is said that some of
them had been criminals, who had been convicted in St. Petersburgh, and
offered the alternative of going to prison, or into the service of the Russian-
American Company
After reaching Stuart
The entrance into the cove is not at all difficult.
Island you can run parallel with the coast at the distance of a mile in not
less than 4 fathoms water; then you can range very close to the two islets
on the West side of the cove. Coming from the North you must make either
Besborough or Egg Islands; the first lies N. 5° W. from the cove, and the
second at 9 miles N.N.E. by compass. Egg Island is smaller and lower than
Besborough. The latitude of the anchorage is 63° 28′ 30″, the longitude
161° 52′ W.
Unalachleet, or Unalaklik, is 48 miles north-eastward of Michaelovski.
It is at the mouth of a small river of the same name, and is the most
northern settlement on the coast, a Russian trading post founded in 1840.
According to Lieutenant Zagoskin, it is in lat. 63° 53′ 33″ N., long. 160° 30′
16". It resembles St. Michael's in being enclosed by a picket, but is other-
wise on a much smaller and poorer scale. The head man had but one room
for himself and family. The "casine" was occupied by several men with
'families, and by an immense number of cockroaches, apparently with families
also. To the N.W. of the post was a large village of Malemute and Koriak
526
BEHRING SEA.
Indians, a race of tall and stout people, but in other respects much resem-
bling the Esquimaux.-(Whymper.)
The main stream of the Yucon is not more than 35 miles distant from
this part of the coast.
Besborough Island was seen at 15 leagues off by Cook, and though it lies 6
or 7 miles from the continent, has no channel inside it for ships, on account
of the shallowness of the water.
Cape Denbigh is 17 leagues from Besborough Island, in a direction N.
27° E. It is the extremity of a peninsula, united to the continent by a low
neck of land, on each side of which the coast forms a bay, that to the south-
ward being the Chaktolimout Bay just mentioned.
The whole of the beach around the bay seemed to be covered with drift-
wood; but on account of the shoals, which extend quite around, to the dis-
tance of 2 or 3 miles from the shore, it is impossible to get it off.
The head of Norton Sound was partially explored by Mr. King, one of
Cook's officers. From the heights, on the West side of the inlet, the two
coasts were seen to join, and the inlet to terminate in a small river or creek,
before which were banks of sand or mud, and everywhere shoal water.
Bald Head forms the north-western limit of this inner sound, and is 20
miles to the northward of Cape Denbigh. On the West side of Bald Head
the shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which is a low beach. At about 20
miles to the W.S.W. of this point the coast projects out into a bluff head,
composed of perpendicular strata of a rock of a dark-blue colour.
soundings off this shore are very shoal, not being more than 6 fathoms at a
league off, and decreasing to 3 and under to the eastward. The coast con-
tinues in a S.W. direction as far as Cape Darby, where it turns to the
North and West.
The
Cape Darby is in lat. 64° 21′, long. 197°. Captain Cook anchored off it
in a quarter less 5 fathoms, half a league from the coast, the South of which
bore S. 26° W.; Bald Head, N. 60° E. 26 miles distant; and Besborough
Island S. 52° E. 15 leagues distant. All the drift-wood in these northern
parts was fir.
Golovnine Bay.-On the West side of Cape Darby is Golovnine Bay, dis-
covered in 1821 by Captain Khramtschenko. The natives here term it Tat-
chik. Its opening is limited on the East by Cape Darby, and on the West
by Cape Kamennoi, or Rocky, lying 7 miles W.N.W. of the first. The latter
cape was so called from a flat and bare rock close to it. These two capes are
high and steep, but Cape Darby is the highest. The bay extends first to
North, and then to N.W. At 3 miles to the North of Cape Kamennoï,
there is a bed of gravel across it, running off to the East from the West
side. At 2 miles from the East side of the bay, which is opposite to it, it is
terminated by a reef of uncovered rocks, which, at a distance, is ex-
POINT RODNEY-PORT CLARENCE.
527
tremely like an artificial pier or mole, whence it is called the Stone Mole, or
Kamennaia Pristan.
There is anchorage in all parts of the outer bay as far as the Stone Mole:
bring it to bear from W. to W.S.W.; within this the depth rapidly de-
creases. The bay is perfectly clear throughout; but, as it is open to winds
from the South, the anchorage is not without some danger from this cause.
The time of high water, the establishment, is 6h 23m. At full moon it
rises 3 feet 8 inches.
The inner bay communicates with the outer by a narrow gullet. At its
head a large river discharges by five mouths, which makes the water of the
bay fresh.
Kalishka or Garishka, a fishing station of the Russian Company, is on this
coast. Mr. Bourchier, R.N., of H.M.S. Plover, travelled from it by sledges
to Grantley Harbour in 19 days, March-April, 1851.
Aziak, or Ayak Island, called by Cook Sledge Island, on account of a sledge
being found by him on it, is 10 or 12 miles S.E. E. of Cape Rodney. Its
latitude is there given as 64° 30′. Its longitude will be about 166°. M.
Tébenkoff thinks it is a mile in circuit. He describes it as a rock rising 642
feet above the water. A low point projects on its North side; and, on the
East, a village stands on the slope of the rugged coast. The island may be
approached on all sides. The anchorage is bad to the East; the bottom is
of large stones. It is better to the North, near the point, although the
current runs here 3 knots, but the bottom is much better.
Oukivok, or King Island of Captain Cook, is a rock 756 feet in height, not
more than a mile in circuit, and cliffs on all sides. There is a village,
the houses excavated in the rocks, on a rugged slope, at 150 feet above
the sea.
POINT RODNEY is a low point to the N.W. W. of Sledge Island.
Point Rodney being low, and the water shallow, it is difficult to land. From
the beach to the foot of the mountain there is a plain about 2 miles wide,
covered with lichens and grass, upon which Captain Beechey observed several
herds of reindeer feeding. Upon the beach is a greater abundance of drift-
wood than is found on other parts of the coast. About 2 miles from the
coast the country becomes mountainous, and far inland rises to peaked hills
of great height, covered with perennial snow.
PORT CLARENCE, which was explored and named by Captain Beechey,
August, 1827,* is 5 leagues to the northward of Point Rodney. It was
passed unnoticed by Cook in his passage through the strait, but this is not
surprising, form the character of the land forming it.
* Port Clarence was for a long time previously known to the Russians as Kaviayak Bay,
but they did not know that it contained its excellent port.-Lutke.
528
BEHRING SEA.
Point Spencer, the North extremity of a low spit of land, projecting about
10 miles from the coast, forms the southern protection of this spacious har-
bour. It here forms a right angle, having a channel about 2 miles wide
between its extremity and the northern shore. This squthern side of Port
Clarence is a low diluvial formation, covered with grass, and intersected by
narrow channels and lakes. It projects from a range of cliffs which appear
to have been once upon the coast, and sweeping round, terminates in the low
shingly point before named, Point Spencer.
Near Point Spencer the beach has been forced up, by some extraordinary
pressure, into ridges, of which the outer one, 10 or 12 feet above the sea, is
the highest. Upon and about these ridges there was a great quantity of
drift timber, but more on the inner side of the point than on the outer.
GRANTLEY HARBOUR forms an inner harbour to the extensive and ex-
cellent bay just described. The channel into it from the outer harbour is
extremely narrow, the entrance being contracted by two sandy spits; but the
water is deep, and in one part there is not less than 12 fathoms. At the
upper end of the harbour is a second strait, about 300 yards in width,
formed between steep cliffs; but this channel, too, is contracted by sandy
points.
"These two ports," says Captain Beechey, "situated so near Behring
Strait, may, at some future time, be of great importance to navigation, as
they will be found particularly useful by vessels which may not wish to pass
the strait in bad weather. The outer harbour, which for convenience and
security surpasses any other near Behring Strait with which we are ac-
quainted, I attached the name of Port Clarence, in honour of his most gra-
cious Majesty, then Duke of Clarence. To the inner, which is well adapted
to the purposes of repair, and is sufficiently deep to receive a frigate, pro-
vided she lands her guns, which can be conveniently done upon the sandy
spit at the entrance, I gave the name of Grantley Harbour, in compliment to
Lord Grantley."
Point Spencer is in lat. 65° 16′ 40″, long. 166° 47′ 50″ W. High water,
full and change, in the port, 4ª 25m.
Point Jackson, named, like the last, from a distinguished naval officer, forms
the North side of the entrance to Port Clarence. Off it the water is more
shallow than usual.
The harbour has frequently afforded refuge and shelter to our ships since
Admiral Beechey surveyed it. The Franklin Search Expedition of 1848-
1854, which went viâ Behring Strait, made it more or less their head
quarters. H.M.S. Enterprise, Captain Collinson, came here in 1851. The
Plover, Captain Moore, and afterwards Captain Maguire, was stationed here
as a reserve or store ship to the other vessels engaged in the search in 1851
-1853. H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Commander Trollope, also wintered here Oct.
CAPE PRINCE OF WALES-BEHRING STRAIT.
529
5th, 1853-June 1854, so that this remote and sequestered spot has received
much attention.
Grantley Harbour, after this, sprang suddenly into short lived importance
in 1866—7, as it was the spot selected for the landing of the Behring
Strait electric cable from the Asiatic shore. During the winter of 1866—7,
Captain Libby, of the Western Union Telegraph Service, wintered here,
and spent the summer, with 40 men, leaving a good station and other houses
when the enterprise was abandoned. It is a central point at which the na-
tives of Kotzebue and Norton Sound, and the neighbouring country, meet.
the Tchuktchis from the Siberian coast. Many whalers annually visit this
harbour for trading purposes, and Mr. Whymper says that it is possible that
a permanent white settlement might be formed in this remote place. It is
a good spot to winter in, but supplies from the resources of the country are
very uncertain.
Cape York, named after the Duke of York, is a bold promontory, and
near it there is probably a river, called Youp-nut by the natives. From hence
to Cape Prince of Wales the coast is of quite a different character to that to
the northward of the latter, being bounded by steep, rocky cliffs, and broken
by deep valleys, while the other is low, swampy ground.
CAPE PRINCE OF WALES is the westernmost extreme of America.
This celebrated promontory is the western termination of a peaked mountain,
which, being connected with the main by low ground at a distance, has the
appearance of being isolated. The promontory is bold, and remarkable by
a number of ragged points and large fragments of rock lying upon the ridge
which connects the cape with the peak. About a mile to the northward of
the cape some low land begins to project from the foot of the mountain,
taking first a northerly, and then a north-easterly direction, to Schischma-
reff Inlet.
Twelve miles inland the country becomes mountainous, and is remarkable ·
for its sharp ridges. The altitude of one of the peaks, which is nearly
the highest in the range, is 2,596 feet. These mountains, being covered
with snow,
when the Blossom was here, (August, 1827), gave the country a
very wintry aspect.
Off the cape is a very dangerous shoal, stretching to the N.E. from it. It
takes the direction of the current, and is extremely dangerous, in conse-
quence of the water shoaling so suddenly.
BEHRING STRAIT separates America from Asia. A vessel sailing in
mid-channel can see both continents at once. Between Cape Prince of
Wales and the East Cape of Asia, it is about 37 miles wide, but at its nar-
rowest part are the Diomede Islands. It is, as has been before stated, very
shallow, not exceeding from 26 to 30 fathoms in depth, and much of it less
than this, so that it will not admit of any deep floating ice bergs to drift
southwards. On this account it was considered that a submarine telegraph
North Pacific.
2 M
530
BEHRING SEA.
cable, between Grantley Harbour and Cape Choukotskoi, on the Siberian
shore, would be quite safe from any injury from this cause.
The Arctic Ocean has been, and is, a vast field for the enterprise of the
American whale fishers; but as it would unduly swell the bulk of this work
to describe it, it is here omitted.
The DIOMEDE ISLANDS are three small islands occupying a conspicuous
geographical position, as they lie between the nearest points of the two
great continents of Asia and America, being thus in the very narrowest por-
tion of Behring Strait.
They have been the subject of some slight dispute as to their real number.
Our celebrated Captain Cook places three islands here in the middle of the
strait. Kotzebue imagined that he saw a fourth. The subject was set
at rest by Captain Beechey, in the Blossom, in 1826. They are three in
number.
The south-eastern of the three islands is a high square rock, named by
Captain Beechey the Fairway Rock, and by the native who drew a chart of
this region, Oo-ghe-e-ak. It is an excellent guide to the eastern channel,
which is the widest and best. The central island was named, after the Ad-
miral, Krusenstern Island, and by the above-mentioned authority, Igna-look.
It is an island with perpendicular cliffs and a flat surface. The third, or
north-western one, which is the largest, was named by Captain Beechey,
after Kotzebue's supposed discovery, Ratmanoff Island, and Noo-narbook
by the native. It is 3 miles long, high to the southward, and terminates,
in the opposite direction, in low, rocky cliffs, with small rocky points off
them.
From Cape Prince of Wales the coast trends to the northward, the water
being shallow just to the North of it.
The coast itself is low, with a ridge of sand extending along it. The land
behind is marshy in the summer, and extends without anything remarkable
for 35 miles to the entrance of Schischmareff Inlet.
Having thus described the shores of Alaska, and the adjacent islands in
the sea of Behring, it remains to describe the detached islands now belong-
ing to the United States, which are found in it. In this we have derived
much information from the voyages of Capts. Lütke, Cook, Billings, Kotze-
bue, Beechey, and other navigators.
ST. LAWRENCE ISLAND.-This island is the northernmost of those
which lie in the open sea. It was discovered by Behring on St. Lawrence's
day, August 10th, 1728. He stated that he passed by it without observing
anything particular on it except the cottages of some fishermen.
ST. MATTHEW ISLAND.
531
Captain Cook gave it the name of Clerke Island. It was seen by Capt.
Kotzebue, who examined the East and S.E. sides, but did not observe the
union of the East and West portions.
From this cause, beyond doubt, the islands Macarius, St. Stephen, St.
Theodore, and St. Abraham of Lieutenant Syndt, are only the higher hills,
which are all that are seen of St. Lawrence at a distance. Cook thus named
a part of its extreme Anderson Island.
In 1828 Captain Schischmareff made a detailed examination of its shores,
with the exception of that part examined by his former commander, Capt.
Kotzebue, in 1817. On the S.W. side is a small open bay, where the officers
of the Rurick landed; this spot is readily recognised by the small rocky
island in its vicinity.
From these examinations it appears that the island is above 29 leagues in
extent from East to West. The N.W. point, to which Admiral Krusenstern
has given the name of the Russian surveyor Schischmareff Point, is in lat.
63° 46′ N., long. 188° 19′ E.
A very projecting point on the North side of the island is in lat. 63° 12′
N., long. 159° 50' W. Captain Kotzebue places the eastern point of the
island in lat. 63° 18′, long. 168° 48′.
The island which Cook saw near this point, in lat. 63° 10′, long. 159° 50′,
is composed, according to Kotzebue, of two islands; Schischmareff says
there are three. The inhabitants call the eastern part of the coast Kaega-
lak, and the western Chiboko. The eastern point of the island is named Cape
Anderson, and here an historic doubt existed.
A shoal of 11 fathoms was found by the Blossom precisely in the situation
assigned to a small island named by Cook after his respected surgeon, Mr.
Anderson. This island had never been seen after, and the veracity of the
great navigator had been in consequence impeached. Captain Beechey, how-
ever, rectifies this error, having found that it was intended for the East end
of St. Lawrence Island.
We have no detailed description of the shores, or capabilities of the
island.
ST. MATTHEW ISLAND.—This island was discovered by Lieut. Syndt,
in August, 1766. Captain Cook, ignorant of this circumstance, considered
it as a new discovery in 1778, and called it Gore Island. He only saw the
S.E. part from a distance, and probably only made out the small island
lying separately to the North, which the Russian promychlenniks call
Morjovi or Morse Island. Since Cook's time it has been seen by several
Russian navigators. Sarytscheff anchored here; Schischmareff passed close
to it. On the Russian charts it has always borne its original name, Matvoi,
or St. Matthew; but to preserve the name by Cook, Lütke has called the
West extremity of the island Cape Gore.
2 M 2
532
BEHRING SEA.
St. Matthew Island lies N.W. and S.E., and in a direct line is 27 miles
long, and 3 to 43 in breadth. Its shores consist partly of high rocks, partly
of low land. The S.E. extremity of the island, most justly called by Cook
Cape Upright, rises out of the water like a wall to the height of 1,400 feet.
This is the highest point of the island. It falls suddenly to the N.W.,
forming a very low and very narrow isthmus; not being seen beyond 4 or 5
miles, causes Cape Upright, even at this distance, to appear as a separate
island. Beyond this isthmus, the island increases in breadth and elevation,
and then again contracts, forming another isthmus, similar to the first, at 9
miles from it, then a third, from which formation, St. Matthew at a distance
appears like several islands. The S.E. or outer point of Cape Upright is in
lat. 60° 18′, and long. 172° 4′.
At 12 miles W. 6° N. from this cape is Sugarloaf Cape, thus named from
an extremely remarkable mountain which surmounts it. This mountain is
1,438 feet in height, and on every side appears as an irregular cone, the
only one on the island. Between Cape Sugarloaf and Cape Upright are
two bays, entirely unprotected, surrounded by low shores. On the North
side of the Sugarloaf is a similar bay, and an isthmus similar to that
connecting Cape Upright. From this towards the N.W. as far as the W. ex-
treme, Cape Gore, are almost perpendicular rocks, intersected in many parts
by ravines.
Cape Gore terminates to seaward in a low cliff. Off it are some rocky
islets. At 9 miles North from the cape, and 3 from the North end of the
island, on the coast quite by itself, is a remarkable rock, of a rhomboidal
form.
The North point of the island, named by Captain Lütke after Captain
Sarytscheff's vessel, is in lat. 60° 38', and long. 172° 41'. It is steep, but
much lower than Cape Upright. The eastern shore of the island much re-
sembles the opposite one. There are corresponding bays on either side,
which form the narrow isthmuses.
Morjovi Island is steep on every part except the S.W. Its North ex-
treme, in lat. 60° 44′, and long. 172° 52′, equals Cape Upright, in eleva-
tion, and much resembles it. The South end extends in a low point to
the S.E.
Pinnacle Island, justly so named by Cook, lies 16 miles W.S.W. from
Cape Upright. Two sides, nearly perpendicular, unite at the elevation of
990 feet in a pointed crest, with a number of pointed rocks on it. At the
steep S.W. extremity are some isolated rocks; and the N.E. point termi-
nates in an entire range of connected and extraordinary pointed rocks.
The shores of St. Matthew are clear, and the depth very great. There
might not be great difficulty in landing in fine weather in the bays. The
island is not inhabited, and is scarcely capable of being so. The formation
of the island is volcanic.
( 533 )
PRIBUILOFF ISLANDS.
>
These are a group of three small rocky islands, two of which were dis-
covered by M. Pribuiloff, in 1768; this officer was under Captain Billings
expedition, in 1790. At first they were called Novy (new); then Lebedevski,
from the name of the owner of the vessel which discovered them. M. Che-
lekoff called them Zouboff; more recently they have been called Kotovy (sea-
bears), and Severny (North), from the immense quantity of the animals
found there, and their position relative to Ounalashka. Adm. Sarytscheff
has placed them on his chart under the name of the officer who discovered
them, as here repeated. They are most commonly called in the colonies
here Ostrovki, the little islands.
ST. GEORGE'S ISLAND is the southernmost. The southern and western
parts are surrounded by rocks, but the North is easy of approach, and affords
good anchorage in a commodious bay for small vessels, not drawing above
8 or 9 feet water. The whole island is volcanic. It is about 3 miles wide,
and extending E. by N. E. 19 miles; or, according to Lütke, 13½ miles in
length.
Captain Lütke makes the following remarks on it:-"Its East extremity
was determined by us to be in long. 169° 10'. Its lat., according to Captain
Tchistiakoff, is 56° 38'. The aspect of the S.E. coast is very monotonous;
on its level surface there is but one point rising above the rest, and this is
1,083 feet, English, above the sea. The two extremities of the island ter-
minate in very steep rocks. The North coast, which we examined, consists
entirely of rocks, of 300 feet in height, the greater part rising perpendicu-
larly out of the water. In one position, at 5 miles from the N.E. point, the
coast slopes inward, and is covered with a thick herbage. Here is the
company's establishment. A small cove between the rocks serves to shelter
the baidars; you may even anchor there in South and S.E. winds. At a
mile off there are 17 fathoms water, black sandy bottom. This anchorage
is slightly sheltered from the East by a low point between the village and
the East point of the island. The surface of the N.W. part is perfectly flat
and horizontal, and is covered with grass. The coasts in general are clear,
but at 13 or 15 miles to the East there was a bank seen, in 1824, by Capt.
Chramtschenko.
ST. PAUL'S ISLAND, the second discovered by Pribuiloff, is much
smaller than that of St. George; this, as well as the former, was the retreat
of immense herds of seals.
St. Paul is 44 miles to the N. of St. George, which is 190 miles N. 39° W.,
true, from the North point of Ounalashka.
Captain Trollope, R.N., says (August, 1863): The channel between St.
George and St. Paul is broad, and free from danger, but reefs extend off
the S.E. end of St. Paul, and a boiling surf breaks on the long, low, level
534
BEHRING SEA.
island called Morjovi or Morse Island. From the appearance of the water,
I should say that no ship ought to approach unnecessarily within 5 miles.
The island extends to the South by a low bed of gravel, on which stands
the village. At half a mile to the S.W. is an islet called Sivoutchi or Sea-
Lion Island, in lat. 57° 5′, and long. 169° 51'. Between the bed of gravel
and the West end of the island, 7 or 8 miles distant, to the N.W. or N.W.
≥ W., the coast curves into a bay, and forms some small coves, in one of
which is a tolerably good shelter for small vessels. The eastern and
northern parts of the island are low, and the coasts sloping and sandy;
but the West side is mountainous, and terminates to seaward on a high
steep cape, which is distinguished by a remarkable height surrounding it.
There is on the East side of the island another (volcanic) mountain equally
remarkable.
At 5 miles W.S.W. from the Sivoutchi Rock, and nearly due South (true)
from the West end, is a small high island, 7 miles in circuit, called Bobrovi
or Sea-Otter Island; a reef extends from this island for half a mile to the
S.W., and between this island and St. Paul are some hidden dangers. At
4 miles S. 75° E., by compass, from the East extremity is another low and
rocky island, called Morjovi or Morses Island. The relative bearing of Bo-
brovi and Morjovi is N. 43° E. and S. 43° W. (true), and the distance 14
miles. There are some reefs to the East and North of the island, and also
at the West extremity. At 12 miles to the East of its N.E. end is a bank
which uncovers at low water; but this is all we know of it.
The vessels which usually come in June and July to St. Paul for the
chase, stay on the S.E. side of the bed of gravel spoken of above, in front of
the village, at three-quarters of a mile from the coast, in 9 to 13 fathoms
water; but there is no security. There is sufficient fresh water in the lakes
and rivulets of the two islands. There is no species of wood growing on the
islands, and but very little drift-wood on the beaches.
The climate of these islands is as humid and disagreeable as possible.
Verdure does not show itself until the end of April or May. Dense fogs
prevail in summer, the atmosphere is rarely clear, and the sun is still more
rarely to be seen. Snow falls in October. In December North winds bring
the ice, which remains here frequently until May.
It is sometimes difficult to find these "small islands" in the condensed
fogs which prevail here. At times the land may be seen from the masthead,
when below it is very thick.
Capt. Beechey, on his first return from his exploration North of Behring
Strait, passed these islands; we transcribe his remarks.
He says:-"On the 21st of October, 1826, we came in sight of the
Island of St. Paul, the northern island of a small group, which consists
of three islands, named St. George, St. Paul, and Sea-Otter. The islands of
St. Paul and St. George are both high, with bold shores, and without any
THE COAST OF ASIA.
535
port, though there is said to be anchoring ground off both, and soundings in
the offing at moderate depths. At a distance of 25 miles from Sea-Otter
Island, in the direction of N. 37° W., true, and in lat. 59° 22′ N., we had 52
fathoms, hard ground; after this, proceeding southward, the water deepens.
St. Paul is distinguished by three small peaks, which, one of them in par-
ticular, have the appearance of craters; St. George consists of two hills,
united by moderately high ground, and is higher than St. Paul; both were
covered with a brown vegetation. Sea-Otter Island is very small, and little
better than a rock. The Russians have long had settlements upon both
the large islands, subordinate to the establishments at Sitka, and annually
send thither for peltry, consisting principally of the skins of amphibious
animals.
THE COAST OF ASIA.
The merit of discovery of this coast is due to Behring, as we have re-
peatedly remarked previously. It had been slightly and cursorily examined
by few subsequent to that great navigator's first voyage until Captain Cook
saw it, and first declared its true character. Captains Clerke and King
passed along it in the following year. Capt. Kotzebue in the Rurick, Capts.
Billings, Sarytscheff, and Wrangel, also added slightly to our knowledge.
But all these authorities collectively gave a very vague and imperfect notion
of the whole. All this, however, was obviated by the surveying expedition
under Captain (afterwards Rear-Admiral) Lütke, whose excellent and ample
work leaves little to desire. This expedition, which left St. Petersburg in
August, 1826, consisted of two corvettes, the Moller, under Captain Staniko-
witch, and the Séniavine, under Captain Lütke. The operations of the latter
are our present object. After making many excellent observations in the
North Pacific, he proceeded to Avatcha Bay, and thence surveyed the
greater portion of the coasts of Kamchatka and Eastern Asia to the north-
ward, as far as the East Cape of Behring Strait. The account of this voyage
has furnished us with most of the subsequent particulars.
The Tchuktchis, the inhabitants of Eastern Asia, may demand a short
notice here. Of all the Asiatic races inhabiting Siberia these are the only
ones that have not submitted to the tribute of peltries demanded by the
Russians.
The Tchuktchis inhabit the north-eastern part of Asia, extending from
Tchaun Bay to Behring Strait in one direction, and in the other from the
Anadyr, and the upper coasts of the Aniui, to the Polar Sea. To the
South are the Koriaks, and to the West the Tchuwanzes and Jakahirs of the
Aniui. The Tchuktchis, though still in a great measure a nomade race,
have less of the characteristics which usually accompany such a mode of
life than the wandering Tunguses; they are more covetous and more saving
;
536
BEHRING SEA.
than belongs to the character of the genuine nomade races. They are dis-
graced by the most shameless licentiousness. Some of them possess large
herds of reindeer, which are driven from place to place in search of pas-
turage, and are also used for riding. At times the meat may be procured in
abundance and cheaply.
They have been found to be more friendly than earlier writers have given
them credit for, and were serviceable to Captain Moore when he anchored
here in 1848-9.
EAST CAPE, the extremity of Asia, has been mentioned before as form-
ing, with Cape Prince of Wales, the westernmost point of America, the
narrowest part of Behring Strait. It is a peninsula of considerable height,
joined to the continent by a very low, and, to appearance, narrow neck of
land. It shows a steep rocky cliff against the sea; and off the extreme
point are some rocks like spires. It is in lat. 66° 3′ N., long. 190° 16′ E.
From its general appearance it might be taken for an island, and this
doubtless occasioned an error in the number of the St. Diomede Islands
lying off it.
ST. LAWRENCE BAY lies to the S.W. of East Cape, and was so named
by Cook, he having anchored in it on St. Lawrence's day, August 10, 1778.
It is remarkable that Behring sailed past it just half a century before, that
is, August 10, 1728, on which account the neighbouring island was called
St. Lawrence Island.
The bay was minutely surveyed by Captain Lütke in July, 1828, and here
commence the sailing directions given by that navigator. Cape Nouniagmo is
the N.E. extremity of St. Lawrence Bay. It is distinguished by a remark-
able hill, not from its elevation but from its rounded summit. Cape Krleou-
goun, which forms the S. W. extremity, is 11 miles S. 52° W. from it. The
western slope of this mountain declines very gradually to form a large
opening, through which runs a rapid but shallow river, on which is a village
of Stationary Tchuktchis, named Nouniagmo. It is 2 miles from the cape
of the name. Cape Pnaougoun, beyond which commences the interior bay,
is 3 miles W. by N. from this village. Between these the shores are
level and low, terminating abruptly at the sea-shore. From these escarp-
ments, entirely covered with snow in July, avalanches were constantly falling
with great noise. Not a single shrub breaks the monotony of the interior
plains.
Cape Krleougoun is high and very steep; beyond it the coast turns rapidly
to the N.W., towards Mitchigmensk Bay. Upon this cape there is a moun-
tain, very remarkable from some sharp peaks. It is a very well determined
position on the chart. The cape is in lat. 65° 29′ 40″ N., and long. 171° 0′ W.
At half a mile from its extremity is a large village.
From this cape the coast extends, rounding to the N.N.E. and N., for 7
miles, where a bed of gravel projects, forming a tolerably large lake. It is
ST. LAWRENCE BAY.
537
3 miles S. 58° W. from Cape Pnaougoun, and may be taken as the other
point of the inner bay. Above it is a large village.
The depth in the centre of the bay is 27 fathoms. At 1 or 1 mile from
the South shore there are from 7 to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom ; on ap-
proaching the inner bay the depth increases, and opposite the bed of gravel
there are 23 fathoms. No indication of reefs or dangers was perceived.
These gravel deposits will be found to be so frequent in occurrence, that
they certainly form a moiety of the entire coast between East Cape and the
South extremity of Lopatka. A summary description of them may therefore
be here given. What is meant by a bed of gravel is a formation or collection
of shingle, rising from a few inches to 6 or 7 feet above the surface of the
water. They are generally covered with a turfy moss and plants similar to
those on the land. They generally extend in a straight line, or gradually
and slightly curve. They sometimes form distinct islands, and sometimes
join on to the continent, forming the coast itself, or else points projecting
from it. Their breadth varies; some are almost washed over by the sea,
and none exceed a mile. There is generally a great depth on their edges,
and frequently at 10 or 12 yards off there are 4 or 5 fathoms. At 2 or 3
miles off the depth gradually increases, the bottom frequently muddy; so
that, wherever one of these gravel beds are met with on the coast, so
sure are you to find anchorage. Nevertheless it sometimes occurs that
detached and similarly deep banks lie before these. In digging holes in these
banks water is found at the level of the sea, but always among the shingle.
Such shingle banks are met with in other regions, but nowhere so fre-
quently as in the seas of Behring and Okhotsk. They are seen at every
step, and a glance is sufficient to demonstrate that they are formed by the
sea, but in what manner is not so evident.
The inner bay extends W.N.W. and N.W. for 19 miles, and throughout
maintains nearly an equal breadth of 3½ miles. Its distance from the South
Cape is 24 miles. Here is the chief entrance; there are more than 27 fa-
thoms water, and no danger. In the East passage there are not more than
11 feet water.
Cape Pnaougoun and the coast, for a mile distant, are formed by a bed of
gravel; further off, though low, it is perpendicular, and covered with snow.
Extending from Cape Pnaougoun to the N.N.E. and N.W. it forms a cove,
1½ mile long and wide, in which is secure anchorage.
At the extremity of St. Lawrence Bay the termination of a chain of high
and peaked mountains abuts, which has every appearance of being a branch
of the chain traversing the Tchuktchis country from East to West, and join-
ing the Stanovoi chain.
But few birds or fish, for provision, were seen here; a few salmon were
all that were procured. But these privations were amply compensated by
the abundance of reindeer which may be procured from the wandering
538
BEHRING SEA.
Tchuktchis, always near the coast in the autumn, for iron articles, &c., or,
above all, for tobacco.
Fresh water is to be had, and of very excellent quality, but not every-
where readily procurable. Capt. Lütke took his from a brook 1 mile from
Cape Pnaougoun; it may be taken from the beach by means of a hose. On
the other hand, not a morsel of wood can be got. It is worthy of remark
that, although the opposite or American coast abounds with it, both growing
and drift, not a single piece is brought here by the sea. The tides are very
insignificant; the greatest difference observed was 15 inches; and were
usually very irregular. As near as could be ascertained, the establishment
of the port was 4h 20m.
The observations made upon the bed of gravel make its West point lat.
65° 37′ 30″ N., and long. 170° 53′ 30″ W.; the latter differing half a degree
from Kotzebue's position.
METCHIGMENSK BAY.-From Cape Krleougoun the coast turns rapidly
in the N.W. part, and, curving in an open bay, extends for 20 miles to the
West to a moderately elevated but very steep cape, on which is the large
village of Lugren. The coast appeared clear, without any danger. A bed
of gravel, separating Metchigmensk Bay from the sea, extends from Cape
Lugren for 20 miles to the West, curving to thee South.
The entrance to the bay is very difficult, from its narrowness and the
lowness of the points forming it. Before making them out, the people on
them will be seen, as if walking on the water. The entrance is so placed,
that its opening cannot be made out until it is brought to bear N.W. by
compass, and consequently when near the western side. It must thus be
sought from the mast-head, like the opening to a coral reef, which, in foggy
weather, is impracticable.
The village of Metchigm, on the West side, at 2 miles from the point of the
gravel bed, is a sure mark. The winter yourts show themselves by a thick
verdure on and around them. The Bay of Metchigmensk penetrates the
land for a great distance. The remarks as to supplies at St. Lawrence Bay
equally apply to this. The entrance of the bay was assumed to be in lat.
65° 30′ 30″ N., and long. 172° 0′ W. The bed of gravel which forms the
West side of the entrance of Metchigmensk Bay extends 5 or 6 miles to the
N.W.
At 15 miles from Metchigmensk Bay Cape Khaluetkin projects, very re-
markable for a round-topped mountain. To the South of the cape is Hé-
liaghyn Bay surrounded by a very low coast, apparently terminating in an
inner bay.
Thence the coast turns to S.E. to Cape Nygtchygan, which, from North and
N.E., at 15 miles distant, appears to be an island, on account of the lowness
of the land between it and Héliaghyn Bay. It is steep; to the N.W. of it
a bed of gravel extends 3 or 4 miles, which unites at its other end to the
STRAIT OF SE'NIAVINE.
539
coast, forming a lake or bay. Beyond Cape Nygtchygan is the opening of
the extensive Strait of Séniavine.
STRAIT of SEʼNIAVINE.—The existence of this remarkable strait was
not suspected until the voyage of Captain Lütke, who applied the name of
his vessel to it. It is formed by two large islands, Arakamtchetchen and
Ittygran. It runs first towards the S.W., then South, and to the East, nearly
30 miles, and from 6 miles to half a mile in breadth. Its entrance is be-
tween Capes Neegtchan and Kougouan, bearing S. E. and N. W., 5 miles
apart. Each of them is distinguished by tolerably high mountains. Neeg-
tchan lies some distance from the coast; but Kougouan falls perpendicularly
into the sea, and was distinguished by Cook. Cape Neegtchan, in lat. 64°
55′ 30″ N., and long. 172° 17′ 30″ W., is the northern limit of the strait;
as Cape Mertens, in lat. 64° 33′ 15", and long. 172° 20′, is its southern ex-
tremity.
At 2 miles from Cape Neegtchan is the small river Maritch. Its mouth is
a good harbour for small vessels, as they can moor against the land. Near
the mouth, to the N.W., is the Tchuktchi village, Yaniakinon. Penkegnei
Bay extends beyond the entrance, first N.W. W. 5 miles, then as far to
S.W. S., then 2 miles to West. It is surrounded by high mountains, ad-
vancing to the coast itself. It is deep and safe.
Abolecheff Bay. The continental coast from Penkegnei Bay runs 6 miles to
S. and S.W. to Abolecheff Bay, partly steep, partly sloping, but mountainous
throughout. Its opening is in front of the South point of Arakamtchetchen
Island, and extends 6 miles to the W. and W.S.W. Its breadth is 1 to 1 mile.
Its N. shore consists of a gravel bed, behind which, at a short distance, high
mountains rise, among which Tagleokou is remarkable for its perfectly conical
summit. The upper part of the bay is surrounded by a very low and sandy
shore. There is good anchorage throughout above the second cape; but to
be perfectly sheltered you must double the third cape, and lie in 17 to 19
fathoms, sticky mud. Fresh water abounds everywhere, but no wood to be
obtained.
Abolecheff Bay had a short-lived dignity, which it is very unlikely to re-
gain. It was selected by the officers of the Western Union Telegraph Com-
pany as the landing-place for the submarine cable which was to connect the
new and the old worlds, from Grantley Harbour on the American side, as
related on page 529, ante. The enterprise was abandoned.
1
4
From the first or S.E. cape of Abolecheff Bay, the coast runs 5 miles to
S.W. S., and forms a bay open to the N.N.E. The surrounding moun-
taius will not permit a ray of the sun to penetrate into it; it is therefore
cold, sombre, and frozen. From this icy bay the coast runs 3 miles to the
East, and approaches the West extremity of Ittygran Island. A bay on the
latter corresponds to a gravel bed running to the N.E., and is made re
540
BEHRING SEA.
markable by the high pyramidal mountain, Elpynghyn; the two together
form a sheltered harbour, with 9 to 20 fathoms.
From the mountain Elpynghyn the coast trends evenly to East and E.S.E.
for 6 miles; then with steep, reddish cliffs, 2 miles further to Cape Mertens,
the South termination of Séniavine Strait.
Cape Mertens is high, steep, and is distinguished by a mountain with
three summits. Between it and the Elpynghyn Mountain there is no
shelter.
Arakamtchetchen Island, the largest of the islands forming the Strait of
Séniavine, is 16 miles long from S.W. to N.E., and 8 miles in its greatest
breadth. From the S.W. point to nearly one-half its length it is traversed
by a chain of hills, moderately high, with flattened summits; the highest of
which, Mount Athos, has two separate granitic rocks crowning its summit, a
short distance apart. Cape Kyghynin, the East point of the island, and the
easternmost point of the land forming the Strait of Séniavine, is in lat. 64°
46′ N., and long. 172° 7′ W., and 28 miles due East of the bottom of Pen-
kegnei Bay, its western extremity.
Cape Kougouan, the North point of the island, forms, with Cape Neeg-
tchan, the North entrance of the strait, to which the natives give the name
of Tchiarloun.
Port Ratmanoff, at 2 miles S.W. from Cape Kougouan, is small but
good, and is preferable to all others on account of its proximity to the sea.
It is easy to make out by Cape Kougouan and another cape equally steep
but lower, at 3½ miles W.S.W. from it; Port Ratmanoff is midway between
them. The port is formed by a gravel bed, extending 1,000 yards W.S.W.
from the coast it joins. Vessels can moor to the gravel bed, where neither
wind nor swell can incommode them.
Cape Paghelian, the S.W. extremity of the island, is 8 miles from this
port, the coast between being nearly straight. There is good anchorage in
this slight bay formed by it, and tolerable shelter. Cape Paghelian is
scarcely above the surface of the water. From its commencement the rocky
shores run 1½ mile to the East, rising quickly to form the Meinghyngai Moun-
tain, conspicuous from its rounded top. Then begins a gravel bed, which,
trending in a curve to S.E. and S.W., forms the excellent road of Glasenapp.
The extremity of this gravel bed, called Yerghin, is 12 mile to South, 65°
East from Cape Paghelian. There is good anchorage in the bay thus formed
in from 10 to 16 fathoms mud.
From this cape the gravel bed runs 2 miles to the N.E. to a pointed and
steep cape; then the shore gradually trends to Cape Ryghynin.
Ittygran Island, 2 miles to the South of the previous island, is 6 miles
long East and West, and 2 or 3 miles broad. Its N.W. extremity is dis-
tinguished by a blackish and perpendicular rock. From thence the North
coast of the island runs directly East, and then turns to S.E., to South, and
CAPE TCHOUKOTSKOI-GULF OF ANADYR.
541
S.W., to Cape Postels, the S.E. extremity of the island, lying 3 miles N.W.
N. from Cape Mertens, and 23 miles from the nearest part of the conti-
nent. This forms the breadth of the South entrance to the Strait of Sénia-
vine, called by the Tchuktchis Tchetchekouioum. Cape Postels is distinguished
by a moderately high hill, with a perfectly round top. Kynkai Island, which
is not more than three-quarters of a mile in circuit, lies 12 mile to S. 62° W.
from Cape Paghelian. It is moderately high and rocky. Nouneangan, a
small rocky islet, is outside the strait, lying 4 miles N.E. N. from Cape
Mertens.
One remarkable feature of the Strait of Séniavine, which also occurs at
the Bay of St. Lawrence, is, that in these straits, enclosed by coasts, that
the depth is greater than in the middle of the adjacent sea, which does not
exceed, except in some parts, 24 fathoms. On the American coast the depth
is not great; but it is still more singular that this depth is separated from
the shallower open sea by a bank with still less water over it; so that the
soundings first decrease on approaching the coast, and then increase when
on it.
In the middle of Behring Strait the depths diminish equally on
either side.
The tides were almost imperceptible two or three days after the new moon,
but a strong North wind raised the level, temporarily, 2 or 3 feet.
The wind naturally affects the atmosphere; with those between North and
West it is clear; the South brings clouds, and S.E. moisture.
Cape Tchaplin.-The coast from Cape Mertens runs to the South. The
mountains recede into the interior, and from the coast a bed of gravel pro-
jects, which, trending in a curve to S.E. and East, forms the long point
called Cape Chaplin or Tchaplin, in lat. 64° 24′ 30″, and long. 172° 14′ West.
At the commencement of this bed of gravel high mountains, with pointed
summits, advance to the shore.
CAPE TCHOUKOTSKOI.-Further on the coast trends towards the S.W.
and West, and gradually towards the N.W. quarter. Captain Lütke consi-
dered the southernmost point of this extent of coast as Cape Tchoukotskoï
or Choukotski. It is a bluff headland, declining in a narrow crest, from
which rise some high rocks, terminating in points. The cape lies in lat.
64° 16′ N., and long. 173° 10′ W. Beyond this commences the Gulf of
Anadyr.
The GULF of ANADYR.-The S.W. limit of this gulf may be placed at
Cape St. Thaddeus, lying 200 miles S. 65° W. from Cape Tchoukotskoi.
With this breadth in its opening, the gulf is 420 miles in circuit, without
reckoning the smaller sinuosities and Holy Cross Bay or the Gulf of St.
Croix, which is 180 miles in circuit.
Up to the time of the visit of Captain Lütke, Behring had been the only
navigator who had sailed in it. The Gulf of Anadyr (pronounced Anārder,
and not Annie-dear, Mr. Whymper says) was visited by the Western Union
542
BEHRING SEA.
Telegraph Company in 1865-7. The land round it is low, and in approach-
ing the entrance there is a very curious island, to which the telegraph party
gave the name of Sarcophagus, from a supposed resemblance.
The en-
trance to the bay is a mile and a half wide at the narrowest point. On the
shore large herds of domesticated rein-deer graze.
On the eastern side of the bay Mount Dionysius, a mountain of no great
height, is the only land-mark of the district.
Three large rivers enter the bay, two of which are the Arnoura and the
Anadyr. The last is navigable for 300 miles, and has no rapids of impor-
tance in that distance. It is subject to violent freshets in the spring, and
then rises 15 or 20 feet above its usual level, flooding the country in all
directions. (Travels in Alaska, &c., pp. 115, 117.)
From Cape Tchoukotskoi the coast extends to N.W. Captain Lütke here
went off the land, so that he did not examine the coast immediately to the
N.W. of Cape Tchoukotskoi, and this is the part that since his survey has
been of great interest, as port Providence was used by the Franklin search
expedition in 1848-9, and by the Telegraph expedition of 1865-7. At 12
miles to N. 70° W. from this cape we reach Cape Stolétie (of the century),
which much resembles the former, of a blackish colour, and having, in a
similar manner, isolated rocks on its crest.
At 7 miles from Cape Stolétié, Cape Ouliakhpen projects in a steep de-
clivity, and is high. The rocks of this cape, and also of those further to the
N.W., are not so black as those which extend towards Cape Tchoukotskoi;
and the isolated and pointed rocks on their crests are not seen here. On
the East side of this cape is an open bay, into which the small river Vouten
falls.
PORT PROVIDENCE or PLOVER BAY is the first opening westward
of Tchoukotskoi, and, as stated above, is not marked on Captain Lütke's
chart. It afforded winter shelter for H.M.S. Plover (Commander Moore) in
1848-9, which was despatched in search of the missing expedition of Sir
John Franklin. It is extensive, with safe anchorage, protected from the sea
by a long low spit. A supply of water could be conveniently obtained from
the anchorage first selected.
Port Providence is always called Plover Bay by the whalers who have
frequented it since H.M.S. Plover was laid up there in the winter of 1848-9,
when on the search for Sir John Franklin. When once in it, it is a very
secure haven. It is sheltered at its southern end by a long spit of land, and
it is no uncommon thing to find several whaling vessels lying inside in the
summer.
Bare cliffs and rugged mountains hem it in on three sides, and many-
coloured lichens and mosses are the only vegetation seen, except on a patch
of open country near Emma Harbour, where domesticated rein-deer graze.
On the spit before mentioned is a village of Tchuktchi natives; their tents are
EMMA HARBOUR, ETC.
543
composed of skin, stretched over a frame built of the large bones of whales
and walrus.—(See Lieut. Hooper's Tents of the Tuski.)
Emma Harbour, in which the Plover wintered, communicates with the
larger one by an opening a mile wide, forming a basin 4 miles long, and
1½ in breadth, surrounded on every side by lofty mountains, except to the
southward, where it is separated from the sea by a tract of low land and an
extensive lagoon, and having deep water at the entrance and middle, with
good anchorage on each side close to the shore. On the low land to the
the South was a native settlement, to which belonged a large herd of
reindeer.
The position of the harbour, ascertained by Commander Moore, R.N., is
lat. 64° 25′ 55″ N., long. 173° 7′ 15″ W.
Plover Bay was selected as the Siberian Station for the Western Union
telegraph cable, leaving Grantley Harbour on the American side. A station
was built, and the line was commenced toward the Amoor, through a most
rugged and difficult country, and one of the party, Mr. Bush, made the en-
tire journey from the Amoor, a distance of at least 2,500 miles, in the win-
ter of 1855—6, a feat which deserved to rank as the most remarkable of
many undertaken by members of this expedition.
Cape Uakkoun, like Cape Ouliakhpen, is very high and steep. It is con-
spicuous, from a pyramidal rock rising from its summit.
Cape Tching-an falls from a great height, almost perpendicularly, into the
sea. It is very remarkable by a red band which intersects the cape from its
summit to its base.
From Cape Tching-an the coast, consisting chiefly of perpendicular rocks,
trends to N.W. and W.N.W. as far as Cape Spanberg. It is high, and in
lat. 64° 42′ N., long. 174° 42′ W. On the South side of the cape is a high
steep rock, with a rounded top, and on the West side is a hill equally
rounded, the flanks of which gradually slope on either side. Between this
cape and Cape Halgan, 9 miles distant, to the N. 71° W., a bay penetrates
into the land.
Cape Halgan is high and very steep. In front of it is a large detached
rock. Cape Ninirlioun is as high and as bluff as the preceding, and in gene-
ral the intervening coast is equally so. This cape is very remarkable by its
flat top, but more so from its entirely different appearance from that which
follows it, Cape Attcheun, in lat. 64° 46', long. 175° 28'. This latter cape,
moderately elevated, is steep to seaward.
Transfiguration Bay.-A coast extends in a winding manner 4 miles to
the N.W. to a small open bay, which Lütke recognised as Behring Bay of
Transfiguration or Preobrayenia. It is surrounded by a low shore, and
towards its extremity it receives the River Ledianaya (frozen), which the
Tchuktchis call Kouivaem. From this bay the coast is high, nearly perpen-
dicular, and like a wall; it extends 9 miles to Cape Enmelian.
544
BEHRING SEA.
CAPE BEHRING is situated in lat. 65° 0′ 30″ N., long. 175° 57′ W. It
is particularly noticeable, because here suddenly terminate the steep rocks
which, with small exceptions, form the entire extent of coast as far as Cape
Tchoukotskoi, and further North the coast becomes still lower. The mountains
in this space are similar to those at Cape Tchoukotskoi; of a moderate
height, level at the summit, sloping, and even flat, which particularly cha-
racterises the mountains about Cape Ninirlioun. The high and peaked moun-
tains, like those in the Bay of St. Lawrence, will no longer be seen, even in
the distance. From Cape Behring the coast turns abruptly to the N.E.,
then to North, sloping gradually, and terminating perpendicularly in some
parts, as far as Cape Tchirikoff, which is steep, and forms an open bay.
Beyond this only a single bluff and high cape can be distinguished,
lying 4 or 5 miles to the N.W. of Cape Tchirikoff. The coast thence
trends towards the mouth of a large river, from whence it takes a westerly
direction. All the eastern shore of the Gulf of Anadyr is destitute of
wood.
To the West of the river above mentioned, the coast is low for 4 miles,
and then commences to become hilly, The mountains, higher than those on
the East coast, are peaked or flat at the summit, but are all dispersed with-
out any order. The coast in this form extends 15 miles W.N.W. ≥ W. and
W.N.W., forming a small open bay, into which a small river falls, and ter-
minated on the South by a high bluff cape. The bottom of the bay is in
lat. 64° 36', long. 176° 48′, and is properly the northern extremity of the
Gulf of Anadyr.
At 4 or 5 miles from this last bay the most remarkable bed of gravel that
had been seen commences. It extends without interruption to S. W. and
W. for 45 nautic miles, as far as Cape Meetchken, in the Gulf of St. Croix,
and consequently forming the largest portion of the North coast of the Gulf
of Anadyr. It is throughout nothing but a heap of bare shingle, with the
exception of a very few spots, where there had been, or still was, a habita-
tion. A narrow and shallow canal separates this gravel bed from the conti-
nental coast, which runs parallel to it, and bounds the sea with low reddish
cliffs.
HOLY CROSS BAY, or The Gulf of St. Croix, occupies a space of 54
miles of latitude, and 35 miles from E. to W. It reaches within 10 miles of
the arctic circle. Its shores, to the distance of 35 miles from its entrance,
run nearly parallel to each other, to N.N.W., and 20 miles apart. Further
on they approach each other, and narrow the gulf to less than 4 miles.
Cape Meetchken, the western extremity of the bed of gravel previously
described, forms the East point of the entrance; it is in lat. 65° 28′ 40″, and
long. 178° 47′. The shortest distance to the opposite shore to the West is
13 miles.
There is good anchorage on the North side of Cape Meetchken, open how-
CAPE MEETCHKEN.
545
ever to N.W. and W.N.W.; the coast in this direction, being 40 miles dis-
tant, affords not much protection. The depth is 5 to 9 fathoms, and the
best place is to bring Cape Meetchken to bear S.W. by compass. Care must
be taken, in entering, of the rocky bank, which lies 1 miles S.W. of the
cape.
The eastern side of the gulf, the nearest part of which is 8 miles from
Cape Meetchken, has but very little depth. There are no mountains what-
ever along the coast. Only near the entrance a branch of the mountains
advances, of which the nearest to the gulf is called, by the Tchuktchis, Lin-
glingai, meaning "heart rock," in Russian Serdze Kamen. It lies in lat. 65°
36′ N., long. 178° 17', and its height is 1,462 feet above the level of the sea.
It is one of the best determined points in the gulf.
At 26 miles from Cape Meetchken a tolerably large and high bed of
gravel advances from the coast to the N.W., and forms a cove 2 miles in
circuit, exposed to the N.W., in which there is safer anchorage than in that
at Cape Meetchken.
At about 8 miles from this point a long and low point projects, forming
the South limit of the Bay of Kanghynin, which is nearly 6 miles wide at its
opening, but is shallow.
Egvekinot Bay, at the head of the bay, penetrates 7 miles due North, with
a breadth of 1 or 1 miles. The high mountains which surround it leave
all round a narrow band of low shore. There is no part of the bay worthy
of the name of a harbour. Etelkouium Bay lies by the side of the former.
The depth in the entrance was 13 to 18 fathoms, muddy bottom. It had
every appearance of being a good port. At the entrance of the bay, on its
North side, a bed of gravel forms Krusenstern Cove. Quiet anchorage may
be had within it.
Ten miles to the West of Etelkouium Bay is Engaoughin Bay, on the N.W.
angle of Holy Cross Bay. It is a round cove of 9 miles in circuit, sheltered
from the South by a low point projecting 2 miles to the West, and by a
gravel bed standing alone in front of the point. This forms an excellent
harbour, the only one worthy of the character in the Gulf of St. Croix.
From this bay the western coast of the gulf runs S.S. W., and then curves
gradually to the S.E., without forming a single remarkable bay or cove. At
the distance of 10 miles from the port the mountains advance very near to
the sea, and reach it in places with high cliffs. The most remarkable
mountain about it is that of Matatchingai, at the bottom of Etelkouium Bay.
It is distinguished from all others as well by its elevation as by its sombre
and rugged flanks. Its height was calculated at 9,180 feet.
On the West side, up as far as the Port of Engaoughin, a large quantity
of drift-wood is found, even long and large trunks of trees; on the East and
North coasts, on the contrary, not a single piece is met with. This circum-
stance is worthy of note; it proves that the current from the River Anadyr,
North Pacific.
2 N
546
BEHRING SEA.
from which it comes in entering the Gulf of St. Croix, bears chiefly to the
West, although from the bearing of its shores the contrary would have been
anticipated. On no part of the shores of the gulf is the smallest trace of
growing wood to be met with.
The establishment of the port appears to be 8h 50m. The greatest rise
was 7 feet, but usually it was 4 to 5 feet; some former traces showed a
rise of 9 feet.
The RIVER ANADYR, which gives its name to the gulf which receives
its waters, is the most considerable which falls into the Sea of Behring.
The Western Union Telegraph was intended to follow the course of the river
up to some villages called Anadyrsk, some distance from its mouth. From
this it was to cross over to the head of the Sea of Okhotsk at Tigil, thence
proceeding to Ghijega.
The telegraph party who wintered on the Anadyr in 1867, found that
blinding snow storms were prevalent during winter, and between log-houses,
no more than one hundred yards apart, it had been found necessary to stretch
a guiding rope for the men. Reindeer meat was obtained in great quan-
tities.
CAPE ST. THADDEUS is the S.W. cape of the Gulf of Anadyr. Behring
perhaps gave this name to a cape on August 21, o.s., being in lat. 62° 42′,
and from his data the term has been defined to apply to the high bluff cape
situated in lat. 62° 42′, long. 179° 38′ E.
Cape St. Thaddeus is the point which projects farthest to the East in this
portion of the coast, while beyond the cape turns to the N.W. and S.W.,
so that it forms a sort of natural limit to the Gulf of Anadyr. At 15 miles
to the S.W. S. is another high cape, to which Captain Lütke applied the
name of King.
Archangel Gabriel Bay.-From Cape King the coast turns suddenly to the
N.W., forming a bay, which penetrates the land to a depth not less than 15
miles, with a breadth of 6 miles. To this bay Captain Lütke gave the name
of Behring Vessel.
CAPE NAVARIN.-From Archangel Gabriel Bay the coast runs South
to this cape, in lat. 62° 16', long. 179° 4' E. In addition to this conspicuous.
situation, Cape Navarin is remarkable for a high mountain on its point,
2,512 feet in height, the flanks of which descend nearly perpendicularly into
the sea.
Cape Navarin is the South extremity of the peninsula, which bounds the
Archangel Gabriel Bay on the South. A chain of high mountains extends
through it. Mount Heiden surpasses the rest in elevation (2,230 feet), and is
distinguished by its conical form. In the middle of September (1827) it was
entirely covered with snow.
From the cape we have a long interval of coast, upwards of 350 miles
in extent, of which we know nothing. Captain Clerke passed it at a
CAPE OLUTORSKOI.
547
great distance, and Captain Lütke, both in his progress to the North and
on his return, was prevented by bad and foggy weather from making ob-
servations on it.
CAPE OLUTORSKOI is the first point described by Captain Lütke. It is
in lat. 59° 58′, long. 170° 28′ E. It is remarkable by a high mountain with
three summits (2,537 feet) with a steep ascent from the sea.
From this cape
the coast extends on one side to W.N.W., towards the Gulf of Olutorskoi;
and on the other, first 4 miles to E.N.E., then 30 miles to the North, rather
inclining to the East. In all this extent it is mountainous, and falls into
the sea in cliffy headlands.
The Gulf of Olutorskoi was not examined by Captain Lütke on account of
the fog and its distance. Its western termination is a cape, which was
supposed to be Cape Govenskoi, in about lat. 59° 50', long. 166° 18'. It is
high, bluff, and cliffy, and over it are some high mountains.
Cape Ilpinskoi. From this cape the last-named coast trends nearly West
to Cape Ilpinskoi, where the coast suddenly becomes lower. This cape is in
lat. 69° 48', long. 165° 57'. Projecting from mountains of a moderate
height, it advances to the S.W. in an even point, not very high, and fal-
ling perpendicularly into the sea According to Krachenninikoff, it is
joined to the continent by an isthmus so low and narrow that the sea
washes over it.
Verkhotoursky or Little Karaghinsky Island lies directly before Cape Ilpin-
skoi. Its lat. is 59° 37', long. 165° 43'. It is of a round form, and 3 or 4
miles in circumference. On all sides except the N.W. it falls perpendicularly
into the sea.
The strait between Verkhotoursky Island and Cape Пlpinskoi is 12 miles
broad. Nearly in the middle of it is a dangerous reef, awash, extending
12 or 2 miles East and West. In the centre is a small but high rock.
From Cape Ilpinskoi the coast curves to the West and S.W., forming a
large gulf, which is bounded to the South by the large Island of Ka-
raghinsky.
As this bay forms one of the narrowest and the lowest portion of the
peninsula of Kamtschatka, it is usually taken as the northern limit of
that country. The Bay of Penjinsk, in the Sea of Okhotsk, forming the
opposite coast.
Although a small portion of the coast to the southward may be included
in the shores of the Sea of Behring, we shall for the present quit them,
leaving them to be described in connection with the peninsula in the next
Chapter.
2 N 2
(548)
COMMANDER ISLANDS.
These two islands, Behring and Medny or Copper Islands, which still belong
to Russia, do not in reality form a portion of the Aleutian Archipelago, but must
be considered as a part of the chain connecting the volcanoes of America with
those of Kamptschatka.
The first Russian navigators gave them their present name of the Ko-
mandorski Islands, in memory of one of the most tragic events in the annals
of navigation-the death of Behring (known in these countries under his
title of Commander), on the westernmost island, which now bears his
name.
Captain Lutke's Voyage of the Séniavine has furnished us with the ac-
counts of them.
BEHRING ISLAND is nearly 50 miles long from N.W. to S.E. Its
greatest breadth at the North end is 16 or 17 miles; to the S.E. it narrows,
and forms a pointed cape, in lat. 54° 41′ 5″, long. 166° 17′. A chain of
mountains, of 2,200 feet in height, extend throughout the island; in its
centre are some peaks. They are in general higher in the South, and lower
and more even in the North. The South cape, called Cape Manati by
Behring's companions, is conspicuous by some high peaked rocks terminating
it. From this the East coast trends North in steep cliffs to Cape Khitroff, in
lat. 54° 56', long. 166° 43′ E. From this to the N.E. point, Cape Waxell,
the coast trends generally N.W. N. and S.E. † S. The N.E. extreme is
an obtuse, low head, projecting 3 miles into the sea. Reefs project from its
North and East angles to a mile or more.
Cape Youchin, the low N.W. extremity of the island, is in lat. 55° 25', long.
165° 58′ E. From this point a dangerous covered reef extends 2 miles to
the North, on which, at 4 cables' length from the shore, is a large uncovered
rock. Between Capes Waxell and Youchin the coast forms an open bay,
and about midway between them was a temporary establishment of the
Russian American Company. These men say the whole of the bay is be-
strewed with rocks.
From Cape Youchin the coast trends to S.W. to the West extremity of
the island, in lat. 55° 17', long. 194° 10′ 3", according to Admiral Beechey;
and thence to the S.E., in which direction, at 10 miles further on, is the
company's factory, on the shore of a small bay open to N.W. This bay is
called here the port: but it must be by contrast to the other unapproachable
points. Two islets abreast of the village, due West by compass, are good
marks to make the port; the one, Toporkoff, is 2 miles, and the other, the
Arii Rock (the Alcas Rock), at nearly 6 miles. Between the two, rather
nearest to Toporkoff, is a sunken rock, that only uncovers at low water, called
Polovintchaty.
MEDNY OR COPPER ISLAND.
549
The spot where Behring died, as related in a former page, is on the
East side of the island, at three-quarters of a mile W.N.W. from Cape
Khitroff.
The water is very deep around the island. At from 4 to 6 miles off the
N.E. and North shores the depth was found to be 58 to 67 fathoms, muddy
bottom on the North side; further to the East, stony bottom.
MEDNY or COPPER ISLAND is remarkable for its long and narrow
figure. The only island it resembles hereabout is Amlia. It is about 30
miles in length, and its greatest breadth towards the middle is not more
than 5 miles; it frequently does not exceed 2 miles. It seems to be the
crest of a mountain rising out of the sea in a S.E. and N.W. direction.
Medny Island is scarcely lower than its neighbour, Behring Island; seen
from the Behring Cross, as the spot where the commander perished is termed,
it appears to consist of three islands. Its shores are very steep, clear in most
parts, and the depth around very great. There are some reefs at its N.W.
and S. W. extremities, and at some other points, but they do not extend far
off. The island is entirely without anchorage for large ships; but on its
N.E. side, at 10 miles from its N.W. extreme, is a small port, where small
vessels may ride.
The company's establishment is on the South side of the harbour. Its
lat. is 54° 47'. The lat. of the N.W. extremity is 54° 52′ 25", lon. 165° 31´E.
Medny (Mednoi or Copper, as the Russian name signifies) was thus named
on account of the native copper found here, and which was attempted to be
worked in the middle of the last century, but the poverty of the mine led to
its abandonment.
The climate of these islands is not very rigorous. There are no very in-
tense frosts in winter, but they have at times very heavy snow storms. In
January and February the N.W. and West winds bring the ice on the coasts
in large quantities. The weather is clear with N.E. and East winds; it is
overcast with those from East and S.E. There are no active volcanoes on
either of the islands, but earthquakes are frequent, the shocks of which are
sometimes felt for a long time.
After violent and long-continued wides, a large quantity of drift-wood is
thrown on to the shores, principally of those species that grow at Kamt-
chatka, but sometimes the cypress that grows on the American coast, and
even the wood which only grows at Japan. Sometimes, also, lacquered
yessels of wood, of Japanese manufacture have been found, which goes to
prove that in this part of the ocean the currents trend to North or N.E.
550
CHAPTER X.
KAMTCHATKA, OKHOTSK, AND THE KURILE
ARCHIPELAGO.
THE first country described in this Chapter is the great peninsula of Kamts-
chatka. It lies between the parallels of 62° and 51' North latitude, and is
consequently about 800 miles in length. The honour of the first discovery
of Kamtschatka is attributed to Feodor Alexeieff, a merchant, about the
year 1648. The conquest of the peninsula was completed in 1706, and it
has ever since paid tribute, in furs, to the governor of Irkutsk. It was made
a new province by Imperial ukase of December 14th, 1849, and formed of
the territory under the administration of the sea coasts of Kamtchatka, and
the district of Ghijinsk.
The natural limit of the peninsula would seem to be, as we have before
stated, at the bay to the West of Cape Ilpinsk. The civil division extends
beyond this to the River Olioutor.
The natives are of two races, the Kamtchadales and the Kariaks or Ko-
riaks, whose territories are divided at Cape Oukinskoi. The Kamtchadales
differ from them more in mode of life than physical conformation. They
seem to partake of the Mongolian type.
Of the geography of the peninsula a few words may be said. Of the
eastern coast, with the exception of the few points imperfectly seen or ob-
served by Cook and other navigators, the only delineation that existed for a
long period was that furnished by Behring. Captain Lütke was despatched
from St. Petersburg to minutely survey this coast in the Séniavine, in 1827-
28. Delays and contrarieties prevented this being done to the extent in-
tended, and only some of the more prominent features received the great
attention which that commander was capable of exercising in this explora-
tion. That officer's work was published in 1835-36. Professor Adolph
Erman also employed some time in the examination of various points on
land. It has since then been examined by Russian officers, and their chart
was published in 1849–51.
KARAGHINSKY ISLAND.
551
Kamtchatka is pre-eminently a country of volcanoes. Some of the
highest peaks in the world surmount its mountain ranges. These mountains,
which cover about two-thirds of the entire surface, form an irregular chain
in a S.S.W. direction. Many of their summits are in a high state of vol-
canic action; and, considered as a whole, it may be supposed that they form
a portion of the great volcanic belt which extends through Aliaska and the
Aleutian Islands, and is continued on through the Kuriles, Japan, and For-
mosa, to the Asiatic Archipelago.
In the principal range running North from Cape Lopatka, its South ex-
tremity, thirteen summits, with craters and hot springs, have been observed,
one other height being isolated, and lying West of the main range. The
most active of these are Assatchinskoi (8,340 feet), Avatcha (8,760 feet), and
Klutchevskoi (16,512 feet). During an eruption of the first, in 1828, the
scoria and ashes were carried as far as Petropaulovski, 120 versts (80
English miles) distant.
There are no large rivers in Kamtchatka. The configuration and forma-
tion of the peninsula preclude this. The largest is the Kamtchatka River,
which, however, is said to be capable of admitting vessels of 100 tons about
150 miles up the stream.
The severity of the climate has been exaggerated, though it is severe. In
some of the sheltered valleys, which possess great natural beauty, the tem-
perature is not very inclement. Perhaps a similar train of remarks would
hold good both for Japan and Kamtchatka, that there is great difference
between the East and West faces of the country; the former differing from
the piercing West winds passing over the ice and snow of the continent of
Asia. Of course agriculture has been but little pursued. Its slender popu-
lation know but few wants, and these are supplied from the produce of the
chase, as bears, lynxes, otters, reindeer, foxes, &c. The skins of these form
the principal export, and but few supplies can be calculated on by vessels
touching here.
KARAGHINSKY ISLAND.-This island, and the adjacent coast, until
the time of Lutke's exploration in 1828, had not been seen by any known
navigator, except Syndt, since the time that Behring had seen one or two of
its points through the fog.
It is 55 miles in length, and an uninterrupted chain of mountains traverses
its length, declining towards the S. W., and rising again at the South end,
forming a mountain about 700 feet in elevation. The western coast is of an
insignificant height. All the shore of the North and East sides of the island
is higher and steeper. This causes a great difference in the appearance of
the opposite coast, the steep ascents, the rugged or rounded summits, fre-
quently rising to 1,250 feet above the sea, and an Alpine vegetation, give it
a mountainous character.
Its N.E. extremity, Cape Golenichtcheff, in lat. 59° 13', long. 164° 40′ E.,
552
PENINSULA OF KAMTCHATKA.
is 25 miles nearly direct South from the Island of Verkhotoursky. Its
South end, Cape Krachenninikoff, in lat. 58° 28', long. 163° 32', is at the
distance of 40 miles from Cape Oukinskoi, on the coast of Kamtchatka.
From the N.E. extremity to the S.E., in the centre of the island, a chain of
steep mountains extends, of 2,000 feet in height, on the two flanks of which
are chains of less elevation.
At 13 or 14 miles from the S.W. end of the island, the mountains decline
considerably in height, becoming more even and sloping, and at 6 miles from
this extremity give place to a low isthmus of 1 mile broad, which, beyond
20 miles off, gives the appearance of a separation of the higher hills to the
southward.
Beyond the S.W. end the coast trending to the East forms a bay open to
N.N.E. and N. by W., but where there is very convenient anchorage.
At 31 miles from the S. W. end, and at 27 miles from Cape Golenichtcheff,
a bed of gravel running off the coast extends 7 miles to the West and S.W.
Its point, Cape Sémenoff, is 13 miles S. 62° E. from Cape Kouzmichtcheff
on Kamtchatka. It is low, and is from half a mile to 300 yards in breadth.
With the coast it forms a bay, open to all the S.W. quarter; but notwith-
standing this, it is an excellent roadstead.
The depth in the strait separating Karaghinsky from the continent is
from 15 to 27 fathoms, most commonly a muddy bottom. It seemed as if
there was some bank at 4 or 5 miles to the S.E. of Cape Krachenninikoff, as
a change in the colour of the water was observed, and the soundings rapidly
decreased to 12 fathoms.
Cape Ilpinskoi, which has been before alluded to, is the North point of
the large gulf which washes the eastern shores of the narrowest part of
the Kamtchatka Peninsula. It is in lat. 59° 48′, and long. 165° 7′. It is
joined to the continent by a low and narrow isthmus, over which the sea
washes.
Cape Kouzmichtcheff, the position of which is well determined as lat. 59° 5′,
and long. 163° 19′, is steep, and is conspicuous by the direction of the coast
on either side, as to the northward it trends S.E. towards it, and to the
southward it runs W.N.W.
Karaghinskaia or Ukinsk Bay is formed to the northward by Cape
Kouzmichtcheff. It penetrates the land for 9 miles in a N.W. direction, its
breadth being from 4 to 8 miles. At the head of the bay the River Karaga dis-
charges itself; its mouth is in lat. 59° 8', and long. 162° 59'. The shores of
the river itself are low, but mountains covered with wood rise at no great
distance. A bed of gravel extends for 4 miles to the South of the mouth of
the Karaga, and then the coast, but little elevated, turns gradually to the
S.E., and forming a cape in lat. 58° 55', and long. 163° 2′ E., which is the
southern limit of Karaghinskaia Bay.
Cape Oukinskoi, which was passed at a great distance by Captain Lütke,
CAPE KAMTCHATSKOI.
553
forms the southern limit of a very extensive gulf, 60 miles in extent from
North to South, of which Karaghinskaia Bay may be placed on the North.
Cape Oukinskoi, or Natchikinskoi, was considered by Captain Lütke to be in
lat. 57° 58', long. 162° 47′ East. It is low and level; the position of the
high and remarkable mountain upon it is probably determined with greater
precision; its lat. is 57° 54′, and its long. 162° 52'. This cape is the boun-
dary between the Kamtschadales and the (Sedentary) Kariaks; the first
dwelling to the South, the second to the North of it. The coast extends for
60 miles to the S.E., to a cape marked on the charts as Cape Ozernoi, in lat.
57° 18′, and long. 163° 14′ East. It is distinguished by a mountain slightly
peaked.
The coast beyond this is formed of high and sloping mountains, and
nothing remarkable occurs until the River Stolbovskaia is reached. The
mouth of this river is very distinct, and is in 56° 40', and 162° 39'. At 10
miles from its mouth the coast begins to be mountainous, and continues so
for 15 miles.
Cape Stolbovoi is a high cliff, in lat. 56° 40', long. 163° 21' East. Before
it are three detached rocks, one very large. The coast from the cape to-
wards the River Stolbovskaia turns abruptly to the N.W., and soon after-
wards to West and W.S.W. At 12 miles South from Cape Stolbovoi, in lat.
56° 27′, the chain of mountains is interrupted to give place to a very low
valley, through which, to the W.S.W. from seaward, there was no elevation
visible between the Klutchevskoi Volcano. The coast in question trends
nearly upon a meridian for 35 miles South from Cape Stolbovoi. Through-
out this extent, with the exception just alluded to, the coast is high and
mountainous, terminating on the sea-coast often in slopes, but with cliffs in
some parts, but it is throughout fronted by an extensive reef. From the
above distance, the coast runs 15 miles to S.E. to Cape Kamtschatskoi.
CAPE KAMTCHATSKOI.—There was some doubt as to which was the
actual cape bearing this name. The coast here forms a sloping and slightly
elevated cape, which, seen from the S.E. at a great distance, would have
the appearance of a remarkably prominent point.
From this cape the coast turns gradually to the S.W. and W., then runs
N.W. and W. to the mouth of the River Kamtschatka.
It is a tortuous stream of no great size; at its mouth is the village of
Sharon. The river was ascended by Major Abasa, a Russian officer in charge
of the Siberian part of the Western Union Telegraph expeditions in August,
1865. He went from this to Tigil on the Sea of Okhotsk. Nishni (New) or
Lower Kamtchatka, near the mouth of the River Kamtchatka, is the place
to which Behring brought the naval stores, and built the boat in which he
started on his voyage of discovery July 20, 1728.
The Klutchevskoi Volcano.-The great mountain of Kamtchatka lies at
the back of the bay to the West and South of Cape Kamtschatkoi. Its lat.
554
PENINSULA OF KAMTCHATKA.
is 56° 8' N., long. 160° 45' E. This volcano, called also Kamtschatskoi, and
surnamed Klutchevskoi or Klocheffskaia, from the name of the village Klutchi
(springs), lying at its foot on the South or right bank of the River Kamt-
chatka, is of a truncated, but very steep, conical form. On its S.W. and
N.E. sides are two other but lower mountains, the first with a serrated
summit, called by the Kamtschadales the Needle, the second even. The
volcano bears S. 76° W. from the mouth of the River Kamtchatka, and the
extremity of Cape Kamtschatskoi is 20 miles S. 63° E. from it. From an
angular measurement, which, however, could not be repeated, Capt. Lutke
calculates its height as 16,502 English feet. Professor Erman measured it
as 15,766 English feet. He terms it the Peak of Kliuchevsk.
Dr. Erman states that he saw it in a picturesque and sublime acclivity,
and approached the burning lava, which poured forth a continuous stream,
till he reached the height of 8,000 feet.
CAPE KRONOTSKOI is in lat. 54° 54′, and long. 162° 13′. The inter-
vening coast between it and the river trends S.W., South, and then 30 or 40
miles S.E. by S. In the distance is seen the chain of high snowy mountains,
extending to the Klutchevskoi Volcano. There is a large detached rock off
Cape Kronotskoi. The northern shores of the Gulf of Kronotskoi, which
extend inward to the South and West of the cape, were not examined by
Lutke. The North shore extends to the W.N.W., and is low on the sea.
The Kronotskoi Volcano, 10,610 English feet in height, stands on the
North side of the bay in question. Its lat. is 54° 45', and long. 160° 37′ E.
It appears to be entirely isolated, and may be seen at 120 miles distant.
The Kronotskoi Volcano, like that of Villeuchinski, has the form of a regular
cone, but it seems to be less steep than the latter. To the left of it is a
mountain, the summit of which was flattened, and close to it a peaked hill,
probably the same that was overturned during the passage of the Cheve-
lutch Mountain from its ancient to its present site.
Between it and the Joupanoff Volcano to the southward, many high
mountain summits were seen, but not forming a continuous chain. In the
southern part of the bay, at 30 miles to the North of Cape Shipunskoi, a
cape projects, in the neighbourhood of which the mountains recede into the
interior of the country, leaving only a low coast. From this cape to Cape
Shipounskoi the direction of the mountainous coast is generally North and
South for an extent of 25 or 30 miles.
CAPE SHIPUNSKOI, or Tschipunski, is in lat. 53° 6', and is 1° 11' E. of
Petropaulovski. It is the extremity of some level land, which advances 3
miles from the chain extending to the Joupanoff Volcano, and terminates
on the sea-coast throughout in rocky cliffs 200 feet high. Seen from the
S.W. or N.E., it has the same aspect as that of a projecting and even cape,
but on the S.E. the level appearance is confounded with the other moun-
tains. Beyond the extreme point are some detached rocks, which seem to be
AVATCHA BAY.
555
united by a reef. Capt. Lutke observed a strong current off the cape which
produced some overfalls.
Cape Nalatcheff is 22 miles W.N.W. W. from Cape Shipunskoi. It is a
high, steep mountain, the summit irregularly rounded; it projects in a point
to the South. The coast to the eastward of it is low and sandy near the sea,
and rises towards a chain of moderately high mountains, but which are
steep, and terminate in peaks; these extend to Cape Shipunskoi. Viewed
from the S.W., this chain seems interrupted in a part where Betchevinskaia
Bay opens. Trading vessels used formerly to visit the little River Vakhils-
kaia, which debouches 5 miles N.W. of this bay. The little River Kalakh-
tyrka, which enters the sea at 7 miles from the lighthouse cape of Avatcha
Bay, is pointed out by a rock of moderate height, whitened by the dung of
the sea-birds, lying 2 versts (13 English miles) to the South of it.
The coast between this river and Avatcha Bay is lofty, and terminates
on the coast, in many parts, in high cliffs. This space is intersected in one
part by a low isthmus, between the bottom of Rakovya Bay and the sea,
across which the hunters who go to take birds from Toporkoff Island trans-
port their canoes.
AVATCHA BAY.*
This bay, the principal port of the Peninsula of Kamtchatka, derives its
chief interest from its containing the port of St. Peter and St. Paul, Petro-
paulovski, as much from its intrinsic superiority. It is so extensive and ex-
cellent, that it would allow all the navies in the world to anchor in perfect
security in its capacious basin. Yet the navigator in entering it will at first
see no sign of human habitation or commerce on its shores, unless, per-
chance, some vessel may be approaching or quitting its only port, the little
town above mentioned.
It was visited by Captain (after Admiral) Beechey in H.M.S. Blossom, in
1827, who made an accurate and ample survey of it. In the narrative of the
voyage of the French frigate La Venus, under Captain Du Petit Thouars, is
a lengthened account of it commercially and nautically, and from these we
derive the following.
The Road of Avatcha or Awatska lies at the bottom of the bay of the
same name; it is reached through a narrow channel, which is 4 miles long
and about 1 mile broad. This strait, although thus narrow, is not dangerous,
because there is anchorage throughout its whole extent; in it, as in nearly
all close channels, the winds are almost always either directly in or out of
* It is written Awatska by Admiral Beechey. Captain Du Petit Thouars and others
write Avatcha; Muller says Awatseha; or properly, according to Kamtschadalian pro-
nunciation, Suaatscha. Mr. Whymper says that, notwithstanding the variety of spelling,
Avatcha is the distinct English pronunciation of the name of the place.
556
*PENINSULA OF KAMTCHATKA,
it; that is, they are either contrary or favourable for passing it. The im-
mense Bay of Avatcha, which leads to this channel, is formed by the retreat
of the coast-line between Capes Gavareah and Shipunskoi or Cheponskoi; these
two capes are the best landfalls for making the Port of Petropaulovski. In
fact, whether Cape Gavareah or Cape Shipunskoi is closed with, if the vessel
should be overtaken in either of these positions by thick fogs or strong
winds from East or S.E., it is always possible to keep at sea; should the
endeavour be to make the channel at once on its parallel, not only will the
making the coast be retarded without any advantage being gained, but
should she then be surprised by any contrariety, there is no means of
making an advantageous tack in order to keep off, and the situation of the
ship will be troublesome, there being no soundings on the coast, and
neither do they offer any anchorage which could be taken in such circum-
stances.
If you arrive by night off the entrance to the bay, and the wind should be
contrary for entering, it will be dangerous to attempt to enter the port with-
out the assistance of a pilot, or unless well acquainted with it.
With contrary winds, with wind too light to steer, or during calm, the
currents and narrowness of the entrance render the navigation difficult;
but the possibility of anchoring throughout diminishes the danger. With
a leading wind, the entering or leaving Avatcha Bay offers much difficulty,
no danger.
If the currents affect the steering, which, in a light breeze, frequently
happens in the entrance, it is well to anchor in Ismenaï Bay, on the East
side of the entrance, or, if necessary, in any part of the channel.
Lights. On the eastern point of the entrance a bright fixed light is shown,
elevated 449 feet, visible 21 miles off.
A fixed light is shown on the inner point on the West side of the entrance,
3 cables N.W. by N. from Baboushka Island, elevated 294 feet, seen 9·
miles off.
A fixed light on the inner point of the entrance on the eastern side at the
signal station, about half a mile South of the entrance to Rakovya Harbour,
elevated 378 feet, seen 9 miles off.
The lights at the entrance are very judiciously placed. The outer light
may be approached without any risk, by means of the lead, and anchor close
to it, should the wind be contrary; but if the wind is favourable for entering,
from the middle of the channel, steer on to the South Signal Light on the
West side, and keep it on the East tangent of Baboushka; this will bring
the ship abreast of Point Staniski, and from this point, steering North or
N. E., will bring you to the middle of the coast, between Point Ismenai
and the North Signal Post and Light, taking care to bear North, or even
N.W. N., as soon as you are to the North of the North Signal Post, and
steering thus you will reach safely the anchorage of Petropaulovski. Care
HARBOUR OF PETROPAULOVSKI.
557
must be taken, in this course, not to shut in the entrance light by the land
of Point Ismenai, so as to clear the Rakovya Bank.
There is no particular precaution necessary for safety in anchoring in
Avatcha Bay. The sea is never so heavy as to occasion any trouble; but
as the bay is surrounded by high mountains, violent gusts are sometimes
felt, so that, for greater security and quietude, it is better to have a long
hawser out.
The tidal currents are very irregular, both in form and duration; they
were never found more than at 2 miles in the entrance, or 1 mile in the
road.
2
The HARBOUR of PETROPAULOVSKI, on the eastern side of this
bay, is small, deep, and well shut in. It is defended by three raking bat-
teries.*
A yessel, of whatever size, can enter it, and undertake any descrip-
tion of repairs.
Tareinski Harbour, lying in the S.W. part of the bay, is immense and ex-
cellent, but as there is neither population nor trade in it, it has, up to the
present time, been of no utility.
Rakovya Harbour also forms, to the South of Petropaulovski, an equally
excellent port, but it is of less easy access than the foregoing, on account of
the Rakovya Bank, lying in the middle of the channel leading to it.
In fine weather the morning breeze is from the North to N.N.W., lasting
until eight or ten o'clock, and sometimes even until eleven o'clock; then,
shifting to the West and South, it sinks altogether; in the afternoon, about
one or two o'clock, the breeze from the offing sets in, varying from South
towards East.
Directions.t-It is desirable to make the coast well to the southward of
Cape Gavareah, and to round it as closely as possible, as the wind will, in
all probability, veer to the northward on passing it. If the weather be
clear, two mountains will be seen to the West and N.W. of the cape, and
one far off to the northward and eastward. The eastern one of the two
former, called Villeuchinski, is 7,372 feet high, and peaked like a sugarloaf,
* During the Crimean war Petropaulovski was attacked by an allied fleet of 6 ships, French
and English, with a result by no means a subject of congratulation to us. On August 28th,
1854, the ships opened fire on the outer batteries, and the Russians returned it with great
spirit. Ultimately an ill-judged landing was made of 700 men, during the unpro-
tected march of whom almost all the officers were picked off. Having lost their leaders,
the men fell back in disorder, and were repulsed with a loss of 107 English. The ships
then bore off. This victory was the cause of very great surprise and self-gratulation to the
defenders of this poor little town. When the fleet returned in the following spring, May
and June, 1865, they found the place abandoned, and it fell, of course, a very easy prey.—
(Mr. Whymper.)
+ These directions are by Admiral Beechey, as given in the Appendix to the Voyage of
the Blossom.
558
PENINSULA OF KAMTCHATKA.
and is in lat. 52° 39′ 43″ N., and long. 49° 46′ W. of Petropaulovski (158°
22′ E.) The highest and most northern of the three latter is the Mountain
of Avatcha, in lat. 53° 20′ 1″ N., and 3° 47′ E. of the before-mentioned town.
Its height is 11,500 feet, and in clear weather it may be seen a very consi-
derable distance. The centre hill of the three is the volcano, but it emits
very little smoke. These peaks are the best guide to Avatcha Bay, until
near enough to distinguish the entrance, which will then appear to lie be-
tween high perpendicular cliffs. Upon the eastern one of these, the light-
house bluff, there are a hut and signal-staff, and when any vessel is expected
a light is sometimes shown. If the harbour be open, a large rock, called the
Baboushka, will be seen on the western side of the channel, and three others,
named the Brothers, on the eastern side, off the lighthouse. The channel
lies in a N. by W. direction, true; and when the wind is fair, it may be
sailed through by keeping mid-channel; but it frequently happens that
vessels have to beat in, and as the narrowness of the channel renders it
necessary to stand as close to the dangers as possible, in order to lessen the
number of tacks, it is requisite to attend strictly to the leading marks.
The outer dangers are a reef of rocks lying S.E., about 2 miles from the
lighthouse bluff, and a reef lying off a bank which connects the two capes
opposite, i. e., Staniski Point, with the cape to the southward. To avoid the
lighthouse reef, do not shut in the land to the northward of the lighthouse
bluff, unless certain of being at least 2 miles off shore, and when within
three-quarters of a mile only, tack when the lighthouse bluff bears North,
or N. E. The Brothers Rock, in one with the lighthouse, is close upon
the edge of the reef. The first western danger has a rɔck above water upon
it, and may be avoided by not opening the. Baboushka with the cape beyond,
with a flagstaff upon it, or by keeping Staniski Point well open with the
said signal bluff. In standing towards this rock, take care that the ebb tide
in particular does not set you upon it. A good working mark for all this
western shore is the Baboushka open with Direction Bluff, the last cape or
hill on the left upon the low land, at the head of Avatcha Bay. The bay
South of Staniski Point is filled with rocks and foul ground. The light-
house reef is connected with the Brothers, and the cape must not be ap-
proached in any part within half a mile, nor the Brothers within a full
cable's length. There are no good marks for the exact limit of this reef
off the Brothers, and consequently ships must estimate that short distance.
They must also here, and once for all, in beating through this channel,
allow for shooting in stays, and for the tides, which, ebb and flood, sweep
over toward these rocks, running S.E. and N.E. They should also keep
good way on the vessel, as the eddy currents may otherwise prevent her
coming about.
To the northward of the Brothers, two-thirds of the way between them
and a ragged cape, at the South extreme of a large sandy bay (Ismenaï
PETROPAULOVSKI.
559
Bay), there are some rocks nearly awash; and off the rugged cape called
Pinnacle Point (N.N.W. 1 mile from the lighthouse), there is a small reef,
one of the outer rocks of which dries at half-tide. These dangers can almost
always be seen; their outer edges lie nearly in a line, and they may be ap-
proached within a cable's length. If they are not seen, do not shut in the
Rakovya signal bluff. Off Pinnacle Point the lead finds deeper water than
mid-channel, and very irregular soundings.
To the northward of Staniski Point the Baboushka may be opened to the
eastward a little with the signal bluff, but be careful of a shoal which extends
about 3 cables' lengths South of the Baboushka. Baboushka has no danger
to the eastward, at a greater distance than a cable's length; and when it is
passed, there is nothing to fear on the western shore, until N.N.W. of the
signal staff, off which there is a long shoal, with only 2 and 2 fathoms.
The water shoals gradually toward it, and the helm may safely be put down
in 42 fathoms; but a certain guide is, not to open the western tangent of
Baboushka with Staniski Point South of it. There is no other danger on
this side of the entrance.
h
When a cable's length North of Pinnacle Reef, you may stretch into Is-
menaï Bay, guided by the soundings, which are regular, taking care of a
3-fathom knoll which lies half-way between Pinnacle Point and the cape
North of it. This bay affords good anchorage, and it may be convenient to
anchor there for a tide. There is no other danger than the above-mentioned
knoll. The large square rock at the northern part of this bay (Ismenaï
Rock) may be passed at a cable distance. This rock is connected with the
land to the northward by a reef, and in standing back towards it, the Pin-
nacle Point must be kept open with the lighthouse. When in one, there are
but 3½ fathoms. Rakovya signal-staff or lighthouse to the northward, in one
with the bluff South of it (which has a large green bush overhanging its
brow), will place you in 5 fathoms, close to the rocks.
Off the North bluff of Ismenai Bay there extends a small reef to a full
cable's length from the shore; until this is passed do not shut in Pinnacle
Point with the lighthouse. But to the northward of it you may tack within
a cable's length of the bluffs, extending that distance a little off the signal-
staff bluff, in consequence of some rocks which lie off them.
Northward of Rakovya signal-staff the only danger is the Rakovya Shoal,
upon the West part of which there is a buoy in summer, and to clear this
keep the Brothers in sight.
There is no good mark for determining when you are to the northward of
this shoal, and as the tides in their course up Rakovya Harbour are apt to
set you towards it, it is better to keep the Brothers open until you are
certain, by your distance, of having passed it (its northern edge is seven-
eighths of a mile from Rakovya bluff), particularly as you may now stretch
to the westward as far as you please, and as there is nothing to obstruct
560
PENINSULA OF KAMTCHATKA.
your beat up to the anchorage. The ground is everywhere good, and a per-
son may select his own berth.
Rakovya Harbour, on the eastern side of Avatcha Bay, will afford good
security to a vessel running in from sea with a southerly gale, at which time
she might find difficulty in bringing up at the usual anchorage. In this
case, the Rakovya Shoal must be rounded, and left to the northward; 5 and
5½ fathoms will be close upon the edge of it, but the water should not be
shoaled under 9 fathoms.
The little Harbour of Petropaulovski is a convenient place for a refit of
any kind. In entering, it is only necessary to guard against a near approach
to the signal-staff on the peninsula on the West. The sandy point may be
passed with a few yards' distance.
Weighing from the anchorage, off the peninsula flagstaff, with light winds,
and with the beginning of the ebb, it is necessary to guard against being
swept down upon the Rakovya Shoal, and when past it, upon the signal
bluff on the same side. There are strong eddies all over this bay, and when
the winds are light, ships often become unmanageable. It is better to weigh
with the last drain of the flood.
Tareinski Harbour, at the S.W. angle of Avatcha Bay, is an excellent
port, but it is not frequented. It has no dangers, and may be safely entered
by a stranger.
It is high water at Petropaulovski at 3h 30m full and change; the tide rises
6 feet 7 inches spring tides, and 2 feet 2 inches neap tides.
The church at Petropaulovski is in lat. 53° 1′ 0″ N., long. 158° 43′ 30″ E.
PETROPAULOVSKI stands in an amphitheatre on the slopes of two
hills, which form the valley, and is simply composed of a group of small
wooden houses, covered with reeds or dry grass, and surrounded by courts
and gardens, with palisades. At the lower part of the town, in the bottom
of the valley, is the church; it is remarkable for its fantastic construction,
and for its roof, which, painted green, seems to add considerably to the
effect of the picture, surrounded as it is by lofty mountains.
In approaching Point Shakoff, as the extremity of the peninsula forming
the harbour was named, and in which is a battery, perhaps a white buoy
will be seen, marking the extremity of a bank having 3 fathoms on it, ex-
tending nearly a quarter of a mile S.S.E. (true) from it. This may be passed
close to it,* leaving it to the left, and thence steer to the end of a low point
of land which projects at an angle of about 45° from the direction of the
* By keeping the South end of the cliff under the cemetery bearing N.E., until within
a cable's length of the beach, when the church of Petropaulski will appear in the centre of
the valley, leads southward of this shoal, after which the direct channel to the inner har-
bour of Petropaulski has nothing less than 6 fathoms.-Valentine G. Roberts, Master, R.N.,
H.M.S. President, 1855.
PETROPAULOVSKI.
561
coast, and nearly closes the bottom of the bay, making it into an excellent
natural harbour, the best that can be desired. This tongue of land, like an
artificial causeway, is but little above the surface of the water, and is now
covered with balagans, huts raised on piles above the ground, serving to dry
fish. In the early days of the Russian occupation it was the site of the
colony. Arrived at the bottom of the port you land on a plank, which holds
the place of a mole. Turning to the left down a good street, broad and
macadamized, after passing the government workshops in the centre of Pe-
tropaulovski, turning to the right after passing them, and crossing a wooden
bridge, you pass the church on the right hand, and then reach the govern-
ment offices. These two streets are all that merit the name.
Mr. Whymper, who was here in 1865 and 1866, says: With the excep-
tion of a few decent houses, the residences of the Russian officials and
foreign merchants, the town makes no great shew. The poorer dwellings
are very rough indeed, and are almost exclusively rude log cabins. The
only noticeable building is the old Greek church, which has painted red and
green roofs, and a belfry entirely detached from the building. It is to be
remarked that the town, as it existed in Captain Clerke's time, was built on
the sand-spit, but no remains or indications of it were seen by us. Petro-
paulovski was once a military post, and had a rather larger population
than at present.
The Cossack soldiers have now been removed to the
Amoor.
The Russian-American Company had at one period stations in Petropaulov-
ski, and other parts of Kamtchatka, but abandoned them, owing doubtless
to the competition of private traders. It is now one of the centres of the
fur trade, but Nijni (new) Kamtchatka is the present capital. Bolcheretsk
was considered the principal town formerly, but has dwindled down to an
inconsiderable village, and indeed the population, and with it the production
of Kamtchatka, is on the decline. Yet the climate is by no means so bad as
commonly believed. Colonel Bulkley, of the Telegraph Expedition, consi-
dered that it was better than that of some of the New England States and
Canada, and was quite certain that agriculture was possible.
A vessel in need of repair will only find safe anchorage in Avatcha Bay,
and must depend on her own resources both for provisions and workmen ;
for there is no certainty in obtaining wood or water, still less any refitments
for the ship. It is, however, possible to procure, in urgent cases, some slight
aid from the Government stores, and some workmen of the port; but these
assistances, besides being limited, are very precarious. Wood and water
are easily obtained. A supply of fresh beef may be procured, and a little
fresh butter, but it is difficult to get poultry or eggs. There are no sheep nor
pigs. Fish is abundant in the bay in the season; it begins with cod and
is followed by salmon and salmon trout.
The Coast.—The eastern coast of Kamtchatka, between Cape Gavareak
North Pacific.
20
562
KURILE ISLANDS.
and Cape Lopatka, trends to the S.W. South of Achachinskoi the land is
not so high and broken as between that bay and the mouth of Avatcha Bay.
The coast is steep and bold, and full of white chalky patches. About 7
leagues S. by W. of Cape Gavareah is a high headland, and between them
are two narrow but deep inlets. The hills break abruptly, and form chasms
and deep valleys, which are well wooded. Achachinskoi Bay, in lat. 51° 54′,
is formed to the northward by a point, and penetrates deeply into the
land.*
CAPE LOPATKA is the South part of Kamtchatka, and is in lat. 50° 49′,
long. 156° 50′. It is a very low, flat cape, sloping gradually from the high
level land to the North, and to the N.W. of it is a remarkably high moun-
tain. Its name, Lopatka, signifies the bladebone of a man, or a shovel, and
is expressive of its form. It extends from the South end of the peninsula 10
or 15 miles, and is about half a mile broad.
The passage between this cape and the N.W. Kurile Island is about 3
miles broad, and very dangerous, on account of the strong currents and the
sunken rocks off the cape.
KURILE ISLANDS.
This extensive chain of islands extends nearly in a uniform N.E. and S.W.
line from the South extremity of Kamtchatka to the North point of the
Island of Jesso, a distance of 650 miles.
The Boussole Channel separates the chain into two portions; that to the
northward belonging to Russia; the southern islands formed a portion of
the Japanese possessions, but later events have altered their relation.
The northern portion is all apparently of volcanic origin; indeed the whole
chain may be looked upon as a series of submerged mountains, a continua-
tion of the mountain chain traversing Kamtchatka through its whole
length.
Of the Japanese portion the most considerable islands are Urup, Itu-
rup, Kunashire, and Tschikotan or Spanberg Island. On these there are
* It was on this part of the coast that the singular occurrence of the wreck of a Japanese
vessel occurred in July, 1729, at the Sandwich islands. All these facts, which doubtless
might be multiplied, would tend to prove that the winds and currents in the western por-
tion of the North Pacific have a great analogy to those of the North Atlantic; the same
progress of the cyclones, or revolving storms, and the same drift of the N.E. The vessel in
question was from Satsuma, in Japan, bound for another Japanese port, called Ozaka
(Ohosaka?) She was driven from her course by a violent storm to sea, where they remained
for 6 months, and at last reached this coast and cast anchor. The crew, seventeen in number,
landed and encamped, but they were all shot but two by a treacherous Cossack. The two
survivors were sent to St. Petersburgh to be educated.
SUMSHU AND POROMUSHIR ISLANDS.
563
military posts for defence, and establishments for facilitating the commerce
with the Aïnos, the native inhabitants. The name Kurile is derived from
the Kamtchadale word for "smoke," the volcanic islands having been seen
from Lopatka.
Our acquaintance with the configuration of the Kurile Islands may be
considered as tolerably complete. This result was one of the most difficult
problems in hydrography. The fog in which the group is constantly en-
veloped; the violent currents experienced in all the passages or straits
separating them; the steepness of their coasts, and the impossibility to an-
chor near the land, are such formidable obstacles, that it tries to the utmost
the patience and perseverance of the mariner to acquire any knowledge re-
specting them. We are indebted to a Russian commander, Capt. Golownin,
or Golovnine, who, in 1811, was charged with the survey in the Drana; this
was completed with the exception of the North sides of Kunasiri and
Iturup. Besides this, we have the observations of Admiral Krusenstern in
the Nadiéjeda, in 1805; of La Pérouse and Broughton, before alluded to; of
Langman, Spanberg, and by other Russian officers; and also a chart by the
surveyor Gilaeff, made in 1790.
Alaid is the northernmost of the Kurile lands. It is small, and in lat.
50° 54′ N., long. 155° 32′ E. It lies rather within or to the West of the
general line of the archipelago.
SUMSHU ISLAND would, therefore, be reckoned as the first island in
reckoning from Kamtchatka, Alaid not properly forming part of this group.
Its southern extreme terminates in a tongue of low land; the North end is
the same, and is distant 10 miles from Cape Lopatka, in a S.W. W. direc-
tion. The island extends about 10 miles in a North and South direction,
and its centre lies in lat. 50° 46′, long. 156° 26′ E.
POROMUSHIR ISLAND is among the largest of the archipelago, being
20 leagues in length from N.E. to S.W. Its southern part is very mountain-
ous, the S.W. portion less so. There is also a high mountain in lat. 50° 15',
long. 155° 24' 15". Krusenstern says, "We could not approach the N.E.
extremity, which was hidden by the Island of Sumshu, separated from that
of Poromushir (or Paramushir) by a channel of a mile at most in breadth.
We nevertheless saw the South point of this last island over the low land
of the extremity of Sumshu, and on a line with Alaid Island, which then
bore N. 66° W.
Shirinky Island, which lies off the S.W. extremity of Poromushir, accord-
ing to Krusenstern's chart, and on which point is marked a peak, probably
a volcano, is small, being not more than 2 miles in diameter. It lies in lat.
50° 10′ N., long. 154° 58′ E. On Aug. 26, 1805, at noon, the Nadiéjeda was
within 4 miles of it. It then bore from N. 2° E. to N. by E.
Monkonrushy Island is rather larger than the last, and is nearly of the
same form. It lies in lat. 49° 51′ N., long. 154° 32′ E.
202
564
KURILE ISLANDS.
Avos Rock.-Lieutenant Khwostoff discovered in June, 1806, a rock lying
8 miles to the S.W. of Monkonrushy Island, to which he gave the name of
Avos, because, in first seeing it, he thought it was his consort, which was so
named. This rock is surrounded by a dangerous reef, formed of rocks even
with the water's edge.
ONNEKOTAN ISLAND is 28 miles in extent from N.E. N. to S.W.
S. Admiral Krusenstern having sailed along its western shores at a short
distance, it was distinctly seen, which was not the case with its eastern face,
which was passed a long way off. The S.W. point, then named Cape Kre-
nitzen, lies in lat. 49° 19′ N., long. 154° 44′ E.; and its S.E. extreme at about
2 miles still further to the South.
The Amphitrite Channel or strait which separates this island from that of
Poromushir is 19 miles broad. It is very safe; all ships going from Okhotsk
to Kamtchatka, or to the American coast and returning, use this channel in
preference.
KHARAMUKOTAN ISLAND (or Kharim-kotan) lies S. W. & S. 8 miles from
Onnekotan. Although the channel separating these two islands is safe, the
currents in it are so violent, that with light winds, or if overtaken by a calm,
the passage would become dangerous. The island is of a round form; its
diameter is 7 miles; a peak rising in its centre lies in lat. 49° 8′ N., long.
154° 39′ E.
SHIASHKOTAN ISLAND lies 8 miles S.W. W. from Kharamukotan,
and is 12 miles long in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. Its centre is in lat.
48° 52′ N., long. 154° 8' E. Ekarma Island is situated to the North of it,
not more than a mile off.
Tshirinkotan Island, or Chirin-kotan, is small, and scarcely more than 7
miles in circuit. It lies 8 leagues to the West of the South end of Shiash-
kotan, in lat. 48° 44′ N., long. 153° 24′ E.
The Snares.-On August 30, 1805, Krusenstern discovered four small
islets, or rather rocks, one of which is awash. He named them the Snares,
on account of the danger he was in from the currents he risked so unex-
pectedly. The strong currents around these rocks will always cause great
embarrassment to every ship that passes near them. They lie S.E. E. from
Tshirinkotan, in lat. 48° 35′ N., long. 153° 44′ E.
Raukoko or Raikoke Island is small but hilly. It has a high peak, lying
in lat. 48° 16′ 20″ N., long. 153° 15′ E.
Golownin Strait,
Mataua Island lies directly to the South of Raukoko.
which separates these two islands, is 8 or 10 miles in breadth. Mataua
Island is 6 miles in length from North to South. Sarytscheff Peak, standing
in its centre, is situated in lat. 48° 6′ N., long. 153° 12′ 30″ E.,
Rashau Island, in lat. 47° 47′ N., long. 152° 55′ E., is about 5 leagues in
circumference; it lies to the South of Mataua Island. Krusenstern named
the strait which separates these two islands Nadiejeda Strait, because his
SIMUSIR AND URUP ISLANDS.
565
vessel was the first which passed it, in 1805. This channel is 16 miles broad.
It is very safe, but the currents in it are violent.
At this part terminates the observations of Admiral Krusenstern, and
those of Captain Golownin commence.
Ushishir Island succeeds to Rashau.
It is composed of two islands, con-
nected by a reef of 400 yards in length; each of these two small islands is
about half a league in length, N.N.E. and S.S.W. A reef of rocks extends
from the northernmost of these islands towards Rashau; these rocks are
terminated by a small islet named Srednoy. It lies 10 miles to the S.W.
from the southern extremity of Rashau, and N.N.E. 3 miles from the
northernmost of the Ushishir Island. Its extent, East and West, is 1 mile.
The channel which separates Ushishir from Ketoy Island is very safe.
The southern point of Ushishir is in lat. 47° 32′ 40″ N., and long. 152°
38' 30" E.
Ketoy Island lies 12 miles to the S.W. of Ushishir. It is high and
mountainous, and about 8 miles in circumference. Its South extremity lies
in lat. 47° 17′ 30″ N., long. 152° 24′ E. Some rocks and islets extend for a
considerable distance off its N.E. and East sides.
SIMUSIR ISLAND is 27 miles in extent N.E. and S.W., and 5 miles in
breadth. It has a circumference of 25 leagues. In the northern part of it
there is a bay, which was also seen by Captain Broughton, after whom it is
named; although it is very spacious, this port is only navigable for small
vessels, on account of a reef lying in the middle of its entrance. At high
water there are only 12 to 15 feet, and at low water 6 feet depth in it The
peak named by La Pérouse Prevost Peak, is situated about 10 miles to S.W.
from the N.E. point of the island, and lies in lat. 47° 2′ 50″ N., long. 151°
52′ 50″ E. At the southern extremity of the island, named by La Pérouse
Cape Rollin, there is a high mountain, in lat. 46° 51′ N., long. 151° 37′ E.
The strait separating the Islands of Ketoy and Simusir has the name of
Diana Strait.
Broughton, Rebuntsiriboi, and Brat Chirnoef Islands, are between Simusir
and Urup, the next large island to the N.E. The northernmost, Broughton
or Makanruru Island (Round Island of Broughton), is of good height, bold,
and abrupt, sloping a little to the southward, near which end are some rocks,
and apparently the only place where a landing could be effected.
The two other islands, Rebuntsiriboi or Chirnoi, and Brat Chirnoef or
Chirnoi Brothers, lie N.N.E. and S.S.W. from each other, distant 1½ miles.
Rebuntsiriboi, the northernmost of the two, is remarkable from its having
two conspicuous peaks of sugar-loaf form. A reef, which much resembles
an artificial breakwater, extends a mile East from its North point, and at its
extremity there is a high rock.
URUP ISLAND is the nearest land to the S.W. It was named by the
Dutch Company's Island. The N.W. point is hilly, as is all the island,
566
KURILE ISLANDS.
which is covered with mountains, many of which are very high. It is 18
leagues in extent from N.E. to S.W., and its greatest breadth is about 5
leagues. Near its centre there is a remarkable peak, in shape like a hay-
cock, which can be seen in clear weather at 50 miles, and is often visible
when the other portion of the island is obscured by fog. A chain of rocks
runs off from its N.E. point for a distance of 5 miles, in an E.N.E. direction,
and at the distance of a mile from the shore there is a large rock of a pyra-
midal form, with two others smaller; the first is sufficiently high to be seen
in clear weather at 7 leagues' distance. The northernmost point of the
island, named by La Pérouse Cape Castricum, lies in lat. 46° 16' N., long.
150° 22′ E., and the southernmost point, named by the Dutch Cape Van der
Lind, in lat. 45° 39′ N., long. 149° 34' E. At half a mile off the South point
of the island, bearing S.W., is a rock of a circular form. The S.W. point
of the island is low and steep, and continues so for about 15 miles in a
northerly direction, when it rises to a lofty mountain range; a high and al-
most perpendicular rock, appearing like a sail when seen at a distance, lies
S.E. about 1 mile from the point.
Port Tavano is a small harbour on the eastern side of Urup, but it is open
to the eastward, and with the wind from that quarter a heavy swell rolls in,
which, with the shallow water and rocks it contains, do not recommend it as
a safe anchorage. The entrance has 8 and 10 fathoms water, and is 120
yards across; nearly in the centre of the port there are some rocks just
above water, with 4 and 5 fathoms close to. Water is procured from two
rivers at the head of the harbour. Salmon and rock fish are plentiful. It
was taken possession of by two French frigates on Sept. 3, 1865.
ITURUP or Yeterop Island, or Staaten Island, is separated from Urup by
the Strait of De Vries, discovered in 1643. The N.E. point of the former,
Cape Okebets, is high and perpendicular, and is also remarkable by three
paps; it lies in lat. 45° 38′ 30″ N., long. 149° 14′ E., the breadth of the strait
is consequently 13 miles in an East and West direction, The South point
of Iturup, Cape Tesiko, but which Krusenstern names Cape Rikord, lies in
44° 29′ N. and 146° 34′ E. The island is therefore 125 miles in extent from
N.E. E. to S.W. W. Its greatest breadth is about 6 leagues. Captain
Golownin only examined the southern part of the island; the N.W. cape was
named by La Pérouse Cape de Vries; according to his observations it lies in
lat. 45° 37′ N., long. 149° 1′ E. The Japanese had two establishments, Sana
and Urbitsh, on the S.W. part of Iturup.
Tschikotan, Sikolan or Spanberg Island.-To the South of the S.W. point
of Iturup is the Island Tschikotan, which is called by Capt. Broughton Span-
berg Island. It is called in Cook's voyage, Nadeegsda.
The centre of the island, according to Golownin, is in lat. 43° 53′ N., long.
146° 43′ 30″ E. The island is only 5 miles long in one direction, East
and West, and about the same North and South. In the centre of the
SEA OF OKHOTSK.
1
4
567
island there rises a mount, even and uniform to the summit. It is said that
a good harbour will be found in the S. W. part of the island. At 9 or 10
miles distance from Tschikotan, bearing S.W. W., there are several rocky
islets. The space comprised between Jesso and Tschikotan, is the Walvis
Bay of De Vries, in the same way that the small islets we have just described,
between Jesso and Tschikotan, were named Walvis Islands.
KUNA-SIRI, or Kunashire Island, is the last of the Kuriles. It is separated
from Iturup by the Pico Channel. It was first traversed in 1643, by Captain
Vries: next Captain Loffzoff, in the Russian ship St. Catherine, in 1793;
Captain Broughton, in 1797; and Captain Golownin, in 1813, have success-
fully passed through this strait. Krusenstern named the N.E. point Cape
Loffzoff; it is in lat. 44° 29′ 15″ N., long 146° 8' W.; the latitude is precisely
the same as that of the South point of Iturup, so that the channel between
is 16 miles in width, East and West.
St. Antony's Peak, called by the natives Tschatchanobury, stands near the
N.E. point.
The S.W. part of Kunashire forms a bay, named by the officers of the
Diana, the Bay of Traitors, because it was here that the Japanese, after in-
viting Captain Golownin to land, seized him and made him prisoner. The
two points forming the bay lie in a N. 60° W. and S. 66° E. direction, 11
miles one from the other. The flood tide, which hardly rises beyond 4
feet, comes from the East, and directs itself along the coast, and turns
around the S.W. point towards the strait which separates Kunashire from
Jesso, and called the Strait of Jesso. The Japanese establishment on the
Bay of Traitors is in lat. 43° 44′' N., long. 144° 59′ 30′ E.
SEA OF OKHOTSK.
The Sea of Okhotsk, surrounded as it is on all its northern and western
sides by the continent, and to the S.E. by the range of the Kurile Archi-
pelago, may be considered as completely land-locked. In this respect, as
well as in size and general situation, it is not unlike Hudson's Bay.
The coast to the S.W. of Okhotsk was surveyed, but not verbally
described, by Sarytscheff and Tomine; and of the Shantar Islands, and the
great Peninsula of Saghalin, we have the details given by Broughton and
Krusenstern. In addition to these we have some details in the Russian
charts of 1849-51, but nothing satisfactory.
We have few particulars respecting the open sea, its currents or its
soundings; but it is known to resemble the Sea of Behring in its shallow-
ness, so that, at its centre, it is never above 200 fathoms, nor more than 50
fathoms at 50 miles off the land. The shores are closely surrounded by
568
SEA OF OKHOTSK.
mountains, which occasions all the rivers, with one exception, to be insigni-
ficant in their magnitude
The only river falling into this vast basin is the Amur, if indeed the Amur
can fairly be said to do so, terminating as it does in a bay, which, being
bounded in front by the Island or Peninsula of Saghalin, opens by one
strait into the Sea of Okhotsk, and, perhaps, by another in the Sea of
Japan.
One feature of interest in this remote expanse of waters is the field it
offers for the whale fishery. These have at times been found to be very
numerous, and of late years the hardy American whalemen have here
pursued successfully their gigantic game.
Whaling vessels frequent this sea from the beginning of July to the
beginning of October, few, if any, being in it by the 10th of October. The
shores are covered with ice from November to April, but the main expanse
continues open throughout the year, and being generally deep without any
apparent danger, its navigation is safe, notwithstanding the fogs and storms
with which it is often visited.
In former years, as has been before stated, the whaling fleet interfered
very greatly, by their trading, with the privileges of the Russian-American
Company, a fact which formed one great inducement for the Russian Go-
vernment to transfer the Territory of Alaska to the United States. Since
that transfer, the Govenor-General of Eastern Siberia has declared that the
Sea of Okhotsk shall be considered as a closed sea, and that vessels which
enter it for the whale fishery shall pay a duty equal to 10 roubles per annum.
The number of vessels hitherto so engaged here has varied from 200
to 500.
CAPE LOPATKA, the South extremity of Kamtchatka, has been described
on page 562.
The western coast of Kamtchatka is uniformly low and sandy, to the dis-
tance of about 25 to 30 miles inland, when the mountains commence. It
produces only willow, alder, and mountain ash, with some scattered patches
of stunted birch trees. The runs of water into the sea from the mountains
do not, with the exception of the Bolshaya or Bolchoireka, deserve the name
of rivers, though they are all well stocked with fish from the sea in the
season, as trout, and different species of salmon. They are generally at the
distance of 15 to 20 miles from each other. The Itsha and the Tigil are the
most considerable; and neither of them have a course, with all the windings,
of more than 100 miles.
Bolcheretskoi is the place that is best known to Europeans on the West
coast, though its present insignificance scarcely deserves notice. It was the
seat of the government of Kamtchatka previous to its removal to Petro-
paulovski. Of course this abstraction has diminished its little importance,
and it is therefore seldom or never visited now by commercial vessels. The
THE GULFS OF GHIJINSK AND PENJINSK.
569
expeditions under Captains Cook and Clerke visited it overland from
Avatcha Bay. Captain King's description of it is as follows:-“ Bolche-
retskoï is situated in a low smampy plain, that extends to the Sea of Ok-
hotsk, being about 40 miles long, and of a considerable breadth. It lies
on the North side of the Bolchoireka (or great river). Below the town the
river is from 6 to 8 feet deep, and about a quarter of a mile broad. It
empties itself into the Sea of Okhotsk, at the distance of 22 miles; where,
according to Krachenninikoff, it is capable of admitting vessels of a con-
siderable size.
Off the western coast of Kamtchatka the sea is shallow to a considerable
distance; and the commanders of transport vessels, who never lose sight of
the exposed coast if they can help it, judge of their distance from the land,
in foggy weather, by the soundings, allowing a fathom for a mile; nor is
there at the entrance into any of the rivers more than 6 feet at low water,
with a considerable surf breaking on the sandy beach.
The villages on this coast, beyond Bolcheretskoi, are Itshinsk and Tigilsk,
situated on the Tigel or Tigil and Itsha Rivers. Itshinsk contains a church,
and about ten houses.
Tigilsk, or Fort Tigel, in lat. 58° 1' N., long. 158° 15' E., is the principal
place. Sauer says it contained forty five wooden houses and a church. It is
called by the Russians a fortified town, is surrounded by wooden palisades,
and was built in 1752. It is a place of some importance in Kamchatka, as
the Koriak and Tchuktchi tribes gather around it in January, to exchange
their furs for tea, coffee, powder, lead, &c.
Besides these, there are eight inconsiderable villages, containing each three
or four houses, on the West coast.
The GULFS of GHIJINSK and PENJINSK, which form the N.E. por-
tion of the Sea of Okhotsk, are but very little known in a nautical view.
They run to the N.E., between Cape Utholotskoi on Kamchatka, lat. 57° 50′
N., long. 157° 18′ E., and Cape Bligan, in lat. 58° 40′, long. 152° 20′, and
extending as far North as 62° 25'. They are separated by a promontory,
terminating in Cape Taigonotskoi.
Pustaresk, according to M. Lesseps in 1788, lat. 61° 0′ N., long. 162° 30′
E., is a small village on the side of a hill, the foot of which is bathed by
the sea.
The river cannot be called such; it is merely a narrow inlet of the
sea, reaching to the foot of the above mountain.
Kaminoi, at the head of Penjinsk Gulf, is an ostrog, or village, about 300
versts distant from Pustaresk. It is on an elevation nearly on the sea shore,
and at the mouth of the River Penjina, in lat. 62º 0' N., long. 162° 50′ E.
Ghijega, or Fort Jijiginsk, lat. 61° 40', long. 160° E., at the head of the
gulf to which it gives its name, stands on the river of the same name, and
from without appears as a square enclosure defended by a palisade, accord-
ing to M. de Lesseps. The houses are all of wood, very low, and nearly all
570
SEA OF OKHOTSK.
of a uniform elevation. The population were all members of, or attached to
the Russian service. The commerce is chiefly in furs, and that principally
reindeer skins.
The Ghijinsk of the charts is situated on the river of the same name, about
8 miles from the coast of the Ghijinsk Gulf. It is an insignificant village of
two or three hundred people, but it has more importance than its size would
lead to the belief. It is the seat of the local government, and is a centre of
trade with regard to the fur trade of the district. It is also the only place
for several hundred miles around where the poor Russian settler, or the
semi-civilized Kamtchatdale, can get any tea, sugar, or vodka (whiskey).
The governor, or Isprasnik, has only 25 Cossacks under him, and has no
power to visit a hundredth part of his immense territory.—(Mr. Whymper.)
It was made one of the stations of the intended Western Union Telegraph
Mr. Knox, who came here in the summer of 1866, in charge of this
part of the expedition, does not describe it as a territorial paradise.
route.
The extent of coast between this and Okhotsk we have not found any
description of.
OKHOTSK is the principal seaport, if it deserve such a name, of the sea to
which it gives the appellation. It stands on the N.W. side of the sea, in lat.
59° 20′ N., long. 143° 14′ E.
The shallowness of the water a long way off from the entrance of the
harbour, and the violence and cross set of the tides at the harbour's mouth,
preclude the possibility of Okhotsk being an easily accessible port, except
for a small vessel. Necessity alone can induce the Russian government to
keep it at such an expense, and under its present circumstances.
Okhotsk was visited by Sir George Simpson in his overland journey. He
arrived here from Sitka, June 27th, 1842. “Okhotsk, now that we had
reached it, appeared to have little to recommend it to our favour, standing
on a shingly beach so low and flat as not to be distinguished at our distance
from the adjacent waters. We saw nothing but a number of wretched
buildings, which seemed to be in the sea, just as much as ourselves; while,
from their irregularity, they looked as if actually afloat; and even of this
miserable prospect one of the characteristic fogs of this part of the world
begrudged us fully one-half."
The tongue of land, about three-quarters of a mile in length, and one-
quarter of a mile in width, is so little elevated above the level of the sea,
that when the southerly wind blows hard or continues long, the whole is al-
most sure to be inundated. The town lies about half a mile distant, situated
on the left bank of the Kuchtui.
A more dreary scene can scarcely be conceived. Not a tree, and hardly
even a green blade, is to be seen within miles of the town, and a stagnant
marsh in the midst of it must be, except when it is frozen, a nursery for all
sorts of malaria. The soil is on a par with the climate. Summer consists
PORT AIAN.
571
of three months of damp and chilly weather, succeeded by nine months of
dreary winter, as raw as it is intense. The principal food of the inhabitants
is fish. The Sea of Okhotsk yields as many as fourteen varieties of the
salmon alone, one of them, the nerker, being the finest thing of the kind
ever tasted. Fish is also the staple food of cattle and poultry. All other
supplies for the table are ruinously extravagant, as much of the stores
is burdened with a land-carriage of 7,000 miles. On such fare, and in such
a climate, no people could be healthy. Scurvy, in particular, rages here
every winter.
Okhotsk has declined since Nicolaiefski was established, the interest
having been much drawn to the latter place. It is said to have about 500
inhabitants.
Bad as the Harbour of Okhotsk is, it is believed to be the best in the Sea
of Okhotsk. The coast between Okhotsk and Fort Oudskoi has been sur-
veyed by the Russian Vice-Admirals, Sarytscheff and Tomine, so we may
suppose them to be well represented on the charts.
PORT AIAN or Ayan, on the western coast of the Sea of Okhotsk, may be
recognized from the southward by Cape Vneshnei or Outer Cape, a high
barren promontory with several craggy peaks upon it, at a mile eastward of
its eastern point of entrance. The coast in the neighbourhood is high
and bold.
The inner part of the port is from one quarter to half a mile wide, and
three-quarters of a mile deep, and affords good shelter for small vessels, in
2 to 4 fathoms, muddy bottom. On the West side of the entrance is a reef
of rocks, with 4 fathoms close-to, barely covered at high water; the eastern
shore is steep, and may be closely approached.
The climate here is abominable, and fogs are uninterrupted; the ice breaks
up in June, and snow does not always disappear before August. The port is
frozen over in November.
Supplies are scarce in Port Aian, and difficult to be obtained. To the
southward of the entrance is a sandy bay, in which the soundings appear to
be regular, and where water may be conveniently procured. Scurvy
is common and fatal among the inhabitants, but the wild rhubarb grow-
ing close to the sea in many parts of the harbour, is of great service as an
anti-scorbutic.*
* Ayan was visited by the allied squadron, and taken possession of in July 10th, 1855.
Mr. J. M. Tronson, who was on board H.M.S. Barracouta, gives a description of the place,
and their visit (pages 123-132). He says, "As we entered the port we could not but ad-
mire the beautiful scenery of this calm retreat, notwithstanding our warlike mission. On
each side of the port a prominent headland projects. Cape Vneshnei, the outer cape, is in
572
KURILE ISLANDS.
JONAS or St. Jonas Island, a collection of naked rocks, discovered by
Captain Billings in the Russian corvette Slava Rossii, lies off this portion of
the coast. Its position was ascertained by Admiral Krusenstern, in 1805,
as lat. 56° 25′ 30", long. 143° 16′ E. It is about 2 miles in circumference,
and 1,200 feet high. Off its West side this islet is entirely surrounded by
detached rocks, against which the wayes beat with great violence, and which
extend a considerable distance below the surface of the water.
Fort Oudskoi (Oudskoï Ostrog), a considerable establishment, was deter-
mined by Lieutenant Kosmin, in 1829-30, to be in lat. 54° 29′ N., long.
134° 58′ E. Fort Oudskoï, or Ouda, lies on the left bank of the River
Ouda, at above 20 miles from its mouth, which is in lat. 54° 44′ N., long.
134° 25' E.
The SHANTAR or Shantarski Islands were also surveyed by Lieutenant
Kosmin, who accompanied Captain Wrangel in his Siberian expeditions.
From that survey it appears that the principal of the group is Great Shantar
Island, which is 35 miles long, in an East and West direction, and of an
equal breadth from North to South. Notwithstanding this extent of coast,
it does not appear to afford any port, but the S.W. point of the island pro-
jects to the S.W., so as to form an open bay to the eastward of it. Between
this point and Cape Nikla and Dougangea, the nearest point of the continent,
14 miles distant, are two islets, Barrier and Duck Islands. These are sur-
rounded by rocks and reefs; one of these rocks is 30 feet high. The North
point of Great Shantar is in lat. 55° 11′ N. long. 137° 40′ E; its South point
is in lat. 54° 56'. To the South of it are some small islands. To the East of
it are two islands, one in lat. 55° 2′ N., long. 138° 22′, is called Prokofieff,
the other, in lat. 54° 43', long. 138° 12', Koassoff. At the distance of 6 miles
to the West of the Shantar Islands is Feklistoff Island. It is 20 miles in ex-
tent, from N.W. to S.W.; its breadth being about one half. This island
has also no port nor shelter.
Tugursk Bay and River are to the southward of the Shantar Islands.
They were partially examined, in 1806, by an officer of the Russian navy,
Borissoff.
From the mouth of the River Ouda, before described, the coast, for an
extent of 50 miles, runs nearly in an East direction to a point behind which
is a small bay named the Bay of Swans. The western point of this bay is
Cape Dougandsha, and from this cape to the mouth of the River Tugur, the
coast runs South; it forms, with a promontory lying 25 miles more to the
lat. 56° 25′ 50″, long. 138° 25′ 50″ E.; the other West of this is distant about 5 miles. Ayan
was formerly a post of the Russian-American Company, but owing to the competition of the
numerous whalers, who all traded with the natives, it had given up all business on the
coast before the transfer of their interest to the United States.
ISLAND OF SAGHALIN.
573
South than Cape Dougandsha, the Bay of Tugursk, the opening of which is
12 miles, and the depth, as above, 25 miles. This promontory is called Cape
Linekinskoy, and is in lat. 54° 14', long. 137° 24'. The River Tugur falls
into the head of the bay in lat. 53° 40'. The coast between this and Cape
Khabaroff, in lat. 53° 40', long. 141° 22′, is but unknown.
ISLAND OF SAGHALIN.
The name applied to this great island is derived from the Mantchous, who
thus call it after their great river, Saghalin Ula, the Amour, which falls into
the sea opposite the N.W. coast of this island. Besides the term Saghalin,
geographers have given it the names of Oku-Jesso, of Krafto or Karafta, of
Tschoka, and of Sandan. It is called Tarakai by the natives.
The natives would appear to be very few in number, as scarcely any signs
whatever were seen on all the eastern side by Captain Krusenstern, who
closely examined this coast, and from the second volume of whose voyage the
subsequent particulars are chiefly gleaned. They were principally found in
the service of the Japanese in Aniwa Bay. They are called Aïnos, as are
natives of the adjacent Island of Jesso, and are certainly the same people
that, since Spanberg's time, have been called Hairy Kuriles. The Aïnos
are rather below the middle stature; of a dark, nearly black, complexion,
with a thick bushy beard, and black, rough, straight hair; except in the
beard, they resemble the Kamchadales. The women are ugly, but modest
in the highest degree. Their characteristic quality is goodness of heart, as
is expressed in their countenance. Their dress consists chiefly of the skins
of seals and dogs, of which latter they keep great abundance. They ap-
peared to live in the most happy way in their domestic life. Their numbers
must be very inconsiderable, as only about 300 were seen in Aniwa Bay,
and
very few elsewhere; it may be presumed that there are none inland, as
their food is chiefly fish.
Captain Krusenstern is inclined to doubt the ancient accounts of its inha-
bitants.
The Island of Saghalin extends in a North and South direction about 170
leagues. Its breadth, in general, does not exceed 25 leagues; but in its
northern part it is not more than 3 leagues. The southern part, as well
as the northern, terminates in a bay. The Dutch gave the name of
Aniwa Bay to the southernmost. Captain Krusenstern called the other
North Bay.
The island is mountainous; two ranges extend respectively N.W. and
N.E. from its southern extremes, and meet in Bernizet Peak in 47° 33′ N.
Its western face is steep, the eastern low and sandy. The middle district
of the island is flat and swampy, but to the North hilly and fertile. It is
574
SAGHALIN ISLAND.
well wooded throughout, and large quantities of timber are exported to Japan
for building purposes.
There is coal in several parts of this island, and on its West side around
Jonquière Bay it rises to the surface, and is of fair quality. Whales are
found on the East and West coasts, salmon and herrings abound, and in
the deep bay of Aniwa on the South, into which two large streams fall,
the Japanese have established an extensive salmon fishery. Water is
abundant at all parts, and drift wood for fuel is found in large quantities
along the western coast. The northern portion of the island is inhabited
by Ghiliaks, and the southern by Ainos, aborigines of Yezo, a race of
small stature.
CAPE ELIZABETH is the North point of the island; it is in lat. 54° 24′
30" N., and long. 142° 47′ E., and is a high mass of rock, forming the
extremity of a continuous chain of mountains. It is very remarkable
from a number of high pointed hills, or rather naked rocks, upon which
neither tree nor verdure is visible. It descends gradually towards the
sea, and at the brink of the precipice is a pinnacle or small peak. Seen
from the West, it is exceedingly like Cape Lopatka, except that it is
higher.
Cape Maria is in lat. 54° 17′ 30″, long. 142° 17′ 45″ E. It is lower than
Cape Elizabeth, and consists of a chain of hills all nearly of the same eleva-
tion. It slopes gently down to the sea, and terminates in a steep precipice,
from whence a dangerous reef runs to the N.E.
North Bay (Sévernaia Guba), lies between these two capes, which lie
N. 65° E. and S. 65° W., 18 miles from each other.
The bay lies very
open, but appeared to be safe, especially in summer, when North winds
are rare.
Nadiejeda Bay (or Nadeshda Bay), to the S.E. of Cape Maria, on the
West coast, is rather open, and consequently not safe for anchorage, as the
ground everywhere is rocky. It lies in lat. 54° 10' 15" N., long. 142° 27′ 34″
E. A plentiful supply of wood and water may easily be procured here.
The southern point of the bay was named Cape Horner, after Dr. Horner,
the naturalist, on board the Nadiejeda.
The N.W. coast of Saghalin is infinitely preferable to the S.W.; between
the mountains, which are entirely overgrown with the thickest forests, are
valleys which appear very capable of cultivation. The shores are broken,
almost everywhere of a yellow colour, which gives the coast the appearance
of being hemmed in by an artificial wall. The confines of the high and low
lands are precisely in the same parallel as on the opposite side; and beyond
the limits, to the S.S.W., as far as the eye could reach, nothing could be
seen but the low sandy shore, with here and there a few insulated but pic-
turesque sand-hills.
Cape Golovatcheff, in lat. 55° 30' 15' N., long. 141° 55′ E., forms with Cape
CAPE LÖWENSTERN.
575
Romberg, on the coast of Tartara, the entrance into the Gulf of Amur, before
mentioned.
Having before alluded to the Amur River and this part of the coast, we
return again to the North point, and proceed to describe the eastern coast
of the peninsula.
CAPE LÖWENSTERN is in lat. 54° 3′ 15″ N., and 143° 12′ 30″ E. It was
named after Krusenstern's third lieutenant. The appearance of the coast
between this cape and Cape Elizabeth is very dreary: no traces of vegeta-
tion are apparent, and the whole coast is iron-bound, consisting of one
mass of black granite rock, with here and there a white spot; the depth at
3 miles off shore was 30 fathoms, rocky bottom. In front of Cape Löwen-
stern there is a large rock.
Southward of it the shore is everywhere steep, and in several places con-
sists of rocks of a chalk-like appearance.
Cape Klokatcheff is in lat. 53° 46', long. 143° 7' E., and near it appeared
to be the mouth of a considerable river, as the land appeared to be uncon-
nected. Cape Wurst is in lat. 52° 57′ 30″, long. 143° 17′ 30″. A long way
inland there are several considerable high lands, the coast being, as far as
the eye can reach, composed of flat sand. Shoal Point, or Cape Otmeloi, in
lat. 52° 32′ 30″, long. 143° 14′ 30″, may easily be known by a hill of tolerable
height, which on this flat coast almost merits the name of a mountain, and
forms a very remarkable object. At this point the coast recedes to the
westward, and here a dangerous shoal lies. It is in lat. 52° 30′ N., and stretches
probably for some miles North and South at a distance of 10 miles from the
shore. This is the only one met with off the coast, and has 4 to 8 fathoms
on its outer edge.
Downs Point is in lat. 51° 53′ N., long. 144° 13′ 30" E. It is remarkable
for a round hill. To the northward of it is a chain of five hills, of a
billowy form, having the appearance of islands in this extended plain.
The whole coast here, like that to the southward, is scarcely raised above the
water's edge.
Cape Delisle, named after the astronomer Delisle de la Croyère, is in lät.
51° 0′ 30″, long. 143° 43′, and forms the boundary of the mountainous part
of Shaghalin, for to the northward of it there is neither high land nor a
single mountain, the shore everywhere consisting of sand, of a most danger-
ous uniformity.
Cape Ratmanoff is in lat. 50° 48′ N., long. 143° 53′ 15″ W. It terminates
in a flat neck of land, stretching a considerable distance into the sea. The
coast hereabouts is invariably craggy, and of a yellow colour. Cape Rimnik
is in lat. 50° 12′ 30″, long. 144° 5' E. At the back of it, some miles inland,
is Mount Tiara, so named by Krusenstern from its form, a tolerably high
flat hill, remarkable for having three points on its summit. It is in lat.
576
SAGHALIN ISLANDS.
50° 3′ N., long. 216° 23′ W. From its parallel the coast trends South
30° East.
Cape Bellingshausen is in lat. 49° 35′ N., long. 144° 25′ 45″ E. Seven
miles S.S.W. of it is a point which was thought to offer a good harbour.
The shore is very abrupt and entirely white. Flat Bay, in lat. 49° 5′, is sur-
rounded on all sides by a country very low. It is a deep opening, in which
even from the masthead no land could be described.
Cape Patience is the most prominent and the easternmost cape of Sag-
halin. It is in lat. 48° 52′ N., and long. 144° 46′ 15″ E., and is a very low
promontory, formed by a double hill, terminating abruptly. From this a
flat tongue of land projects pretty far to the South. The flat hill near Flat
Bay is the first high land in that direction. By this hill Cape Patience,
which, owing to its little elevation, is not easily perceived, may soon be
recognised.
PATIENCE BAY is extensive, and limited to the East by the cape of the
same name, and to the West by Cape Soimonoff. Cape Patience is sur-
rounded by a rocky shoal, extending a considerable distance.
Robben Island, surrounded by a very dangerous reef, lies off Cape Pa-
tience. Capt. Krusenstern saw and examined the extent of this reef. The
N.E. front he places in lat. 48° 36′, and long. 144° 33', and that part which
may be considered as the S.W. extremity is in lat. 48° 28′, and long. 144°
10' E., so that its whole circumference is about 35 miles. The middle of
Robben Island is in lat. 48° 32′ 15″, and long. 144° 23'. The channel be-
tween the cape and the reef was not examined. The ship Castricom, under
the Dutch commander De Vries, anchored here in 1643, and gave the names
to the bay, &c. In the N.E. corner of the bay is the mouth of a tolerably
larger river, named the Neva. Its entrance, in lat. 49° 14' 40", and long.
216° 58', is about half a mile wide. Off its mouth the water was fresher,
and branches of trees were among the clayey soundings. A smaller river
debouches to the southward.
Cape Soimonoff, in lat. 48° 53′ 20″, and long. 143° 2′, is the western limit
of Patience Bay; it is a high promontory, projecting very much to the
eastward. Cape Dalrymple, named after the English hydrographer, is in lat.
48° 21' N., and long. 142° 50'. It is formed by a high mountain, lying close-
upon the beach in a North and South direction, and is the more easily
known from being altogether isolated. The coast trends S. by W., consist-
ing of lofty mountains, divided by deep valleys, the shore being steep and
rocky. The whole country is more agreeable in prospect than further South.
Cape Muloffsky, a projecting point of land, is in lat. 47° 57′ 45″, and long.
142° 44'. Bernizet Peak of La Pérouse is probably the same as Mount Span-
berg of the Dutch. It is a lofty, rounded mountain, in lat. 47° 33′, and long.
142° 20'.
Cape Seniavine is a high point of land, in lat. 47° 16′ 30″, and long.
CAPE ANIWA-CAPE CRILLON.
577
142° 59′ 30″. To the northward of it the coast is low, and falls suddenly
off to the westward; to the southward are lofty mountains.
Mordwinoff Bay lies to the southward of this, and is limited to the East
by Cape Tonin. Plenty of water was found in it in many places, and abun-
dance of firewood. Cape Tonin is in lat. 46° 50′, long. 143° 33′. ´It is of
moderate height, and entirely overgrown with fir trees. A chain of rocks
stretches to the northward from it.
Cape Lowenorn is in lat. 46° 23′ 10″, long. 143° 40'. It is a steep pro-
jecting rock, easily to be distinguished from the rest of this coast by its
yellow colour. North of it the coast assumes rather a westerly direction, and
consists of a chain of large lofty mountains.
CAPE ANIWA, or Siretoko the S.E. projection of Saghalin, is in every
respect a remarkable promontory, the more so from a chain of high moun-
tains near it, stretching away to the northward, between which and the cape
is a hollow that gives it the appearance of a saddle. The headland itself is
a steep, abrupt mass of rocks, perfectly barren, and having a deep inlet at
its point. The position was very carefully observed by Captain Krusenstern;
it is in lat. 46° 2' 20" N., long. 143° 30′ 20″ E.
ANIWA BAY occupies the southern end of Saghalin. Its opening is
between Cape Aniwa on the East and Cape Crillon on the West, 64 miles
apart; its head is at Salmon Bay, 50 miles within the line of opening.
From Cape Aniwa it runs first in a northerly direction, then inclining a
little to the West to a headland, which projects also to the West, and from
this, as far as the head of the bay, it runs North and South. In this part of
the coast is a rock called the Pyramid on the charts.
Tamary Aniwa is apparently the name given by the Dutch to the project-
ing point on the East side of the bay above alluded to. Here was a Japa-
nese establishment, perhaps more considerable than that at Salmon Cove.
The harbour is somewhat sheltered against the South wind, but too small
for a ship of considerable size to be there. There were about one hundred
dwellings of the Aïnos.
Lachsforellen or Salmon-Trout Bay is entirely exposed to the South, which
are here said to be the prevailing winds, and consequently the road is by no
means safe. The great surf is also an obstacle to landing. Tamary Aniwa
is its S.E. point. The Japanese had here also a large establishment. Salm
or Salmon Bay is at the head of Aniwa Bay. Krusenstern's anchorage off it
was in lat. 46° 41′ 15″, and long. 142° 32′. The Japanese factory, at the
mouth of the small river, bore N. 49° W. 24 miles.
The West side of Aniwa Bay is throughout very mountainous. A flat
and rather projecting mountain, in the direction of the coast, which trends
S.S.W., is alone distinguished for its greater height.
CAPE CRILLON or Notoro is the S.W. limit of Aniwa Bay, and the
South extremity of Saghalin. It is in lat. 45° 54′ 15″ N., long. 141° 57′ 56″.
North Pacific.
2 P
578
LA PEROUSE STRAIT.
At a short distance from it is a small round rock, and another small rock is
at its extremity.
La Dangereuse Rock lies off it. This, with the cape, were thus named by
La Pérouse. The rock is correctly termed; it is about 20 feet high, and 60
feet in diameter. It should not be approached nearer than a mile, as rocky
ledges extend around it, and is 83 miles S.E. S. from Cape Crillon, and is
in lat. 45° 47′ 15″, and long. 142° 8' 45". It lies in the middle of the strait
of La Pérouse, which separates Saghalin from the Island of Yezo.
LA PEROUSE STRAIT.
This strait is formed between Cape Crillon or Notoro, the southern end of
Saghalin, and Cape Soya, the North extreme of Yezo. The general sound-
ings in it are 35 to 40 fathoms and upwards, decreasing to 25 and 20 fa-
thoms as the shores are neared; but as these latter depths will be found in
the middle of the strait near the Dangerous Rock and in other places, the
lead in thick weather cannot always be trusted to ensure safety.
There are heavy overfalls, giving the appearance of a reef, between Cape
Crillon and Dangerous Rock, but deep water was found on passing through.
Neither this cape nor Cape Nossyab should be closed by a sailing vessel,
without a commanding breeze, on account of the tide race off them.
Refunsiri Island, lying off the South side of the western entrance to La
Pérouse Strait, is in shape an acute-angled triangle, 11 miles long, and 31
miles wide at the base which is its North end, where there is a shallow bay,
with rather a populous village. The summit of a range of hills, the highest
part of which is nearly in the centre of the island, attains an elevation of
1,300 ft., but it is so close to Pic-de-Langle on Risiri as to appear to the eye
much lower.
The shores of this island appear to be clear of outlying dangers, except
the North end, where the ground is foul. Nearly 2 miles North of the N.E.
point of the island, and about East 2 miles from Bomasiri, an islet 1 mile
northward of the N.W. point of the island, is the dangerous rock discovered
by H.M.S. Bittern in 1855, but it nearly always breaks.
Risiri Island is about 7 miles S.E. of Refunsiri, and the passage between
is quite clear of all known danger, and may safely be taken. This island,
from its great height, becomes, for vessels approaching from the southward,
a conspicuous mark for the West entrance of La Pérouse Strait. It is nearly
circular in shape, with a generally low shore rising abruptly from the sea.
No dangers of any importance are known in its vicinity; a few detached
rocks exist, but they lie close inshore. It was first seen by La Pérouse, who
took it for a mountain on the mainland of Yezo, and named it Pic-de-Langle.
Its summit attains an elevation of 5,900 feet, and may be seen in clear
weather from a distance of 70 or 80 miles. It is generally capped with
snow, and often peers out most usefully above the harassing fogs.
CAPE NOSSYAB, ETC.
579
A bluff point, called Nakko Head, jutting out on the north-east side of
the island, forms a small bay, which affords shelter from S.E. round to
W.N.W.
Totomosiri, or Monneron Island, lying N.W. by W. W. 32 miles from
Cape Notoro, is of moderate height, without the volcanic appearance of Re-
funsiri or of Risiri. There are three rocks awash lying about a mile off its
eastern shore, and another about a mile off its N.E. point. There is a spring
on Totomosiri, from which whalers are in the habit of watering, but with
great difficulty and labour.
CAPE NOSSYAB, the N.W. point of Yezo Island, is the abrupt but
rather sloping termination of a remarkable table land, and appears like an
island at a distance. Extending a mile northward from the cape is a flat
narrow tongue of land, only a few feet above the sea, having upon it a few
huts and a fishing station. From the extreme point of this low land a shoal
rocky spit, partly covered with weed, extends N.N.W. upwards of a mile,
with but little water over it in places, and at its extremity a depth of 21
fathoms, which rapidly deepens to 6 and 7 fathoms.
CAPE SOYA, the North extreme of Yezo, may easily be recognized,
sometimes even in a fog, by a remarkable white rock lying off it to the west-
ward, and which appears to be surrounded with broken ground.
Romanzov Bay. -Between Capes Nossyab and Soya is an extensive bay,
in which the land, covered with rank verdure, slopes towards the sea mar-
gin. Several huts are distributed along the shores of the bay; and about
5 miles S.W. from Cape Soya is a large Japanese village or fishing station.
A vessel intending to take shelter here should be careful to keep 3 or 4 miles
off shore.
H.M.S. Acteon, in September, 1859, while engaged in surveying the
islands Risiri and Rifunsiri, was blown by a W.S.W. gale through the
strait of La Pérouse. The atmosphere was so laden with spray as to render
it impossible to fix the position of the ship accurately.
Vessels bound through the strait from the eastward with an adverse wind,
would do well to stand across and work to windward in Aniwa Bay, where
they would have smooth water, no current, and perhaps find an eddy in
their favour. At present no dangers are known in this bay.
Cape Crillon, the S.W. point of Saghalin, above alluded to, from a dis-
tance of 10 or 12 miles makes like an island. On its summit, 124 feet high,
is a small shrine, and 4 miles North of the cape is a conspicuous hill (Quoin
Hill), which rises abruptly from the shore to an elevation of 1,025 feet.
A range of hills, varying from 800 to 1,200 feet in height, amongst which is
one of sugar-loaf form, stretches along the coast to the N.E. of Quoin Hill.
The Tsisia Rock, 72 feet, conspicuously marks the position of the point of
the same name, at 84 miles N.E. by N. of the summit of Cape Notoro. From
the Tsisia Rock the coast trends about N. by E. for some considerable dis-
2 P 2
580
GULF OF TARTARY.
tance. Anchorage may be taken in 8 or 12 fathoms anywhere along the
coast between Cape Notoro and the Tsisia Rock.
On the western side, and 3 miles northward of the cape, and near a
Japanese fishing-station, is an extensive patch of dangerous rocks, covered
at high water; they lie about a mile off shore.
The island of Yezo will be described hereafter.
In and about La Pérouse Strait the tides and currents are very irregular,
and they are probably much influenced by prevailing winds. They are
felt mostly inshore, particularly round Capes Crillon and Nossyab, where
at times they become perfect races. It is high water near these capes, full
and change, between 10h and 11", and the rise is about 6 feet.
GULF OF TARTARY.
The entrance of the Gulf of Tartary, which insulates Saghalin, is 170
miles wide between Cape Crillon and Cape Disappointment on the Tartary
coast. The western coast of Saghalin trends irregularly to the northward
for 370 miles.
From Cape Disappointment, in lat. 45° 40′ N., the coast of Manchuria
trends to the N.E., and forms, with the W. coast of Saghalin Island, the long
channel named the Gulf of Tartary, which communicates with the Gulf of
Amúr to the northward by Tartary Strait. This strait may be considered to
begin on the parallel of about 51° N.; on the parallel of Castries bay the
coasts of Manchuria and Saghalin converge rapidly; and abreast Cape Ca-
therine, in 51° 57′ N., they are only 7 miles apart; 17 miles further North,
between Capes Lazaref and Pogobi, they approach to within 3 miles; and
this is the gorge of the strait, and the entrance into the Gulf of Amúr.
The only ports at present known in the gulf are Barracouta Harbour and
Castries Bay on its western coast, and Jonquière Bay on its eastern. The
anchorage along the eastern coast is safe during the summer months, when
easterly winds prevail; but a vessel must be prepared to weigh, should the
wind veer to the West.
The navigation of the gulf would be simple enough, but the fogs render
it dangerous, requiring the greatest caution to be observed. It has been
remarked by former voyagers, and this was confirmed in 1855-56, that on
nearing the land in these seas a vessel will suddenly emerge from the fog
or find it lift.
Wood and water can be procured in abundance and with facility, on all
parts of the coast of the gulf, and coal, of fair quality, in any quantity at
Jonquiêre Bay. Fish and wild fowl are plentiful. Very fine codfish have
been caught in soundings from 73 to 30 fathoms.
Winds. During May, June, and July, the winds in this gulf prevailed
HADSHI BAY.
581
from the southward and eastward, sometimes blowing a double and even
treble-reefed topsail breeze. Occasionally in May a furious south-easterly
gale and snow storm, lasting ten or twelve hours, have been experienced,
and they may be expected with a previously freshening breeze from East
and S.E., and sometimes a rapidly falling barometer. The wind in these
storms rises suddenly, and falls equally so, and will most probably veer to
South, S.W., West, and perhaps N.W.
In the end of August and during October the winds were chiefly from
S.W. to N.W. and North; they are probably the same in September.
In October foul weather appears to come on as the wind draws to the
eastward of North, but by all accounts the heaviest gales may be expected
from N.W., and these prevail through the winter.
Fogs. From March till August fogs are almost continuous in the gulf,
with scarcely any clear interval for more than a day or two at a time; they
are most prevalent and dense in June, and are immediately dispersed in
S.W. winds; the mercury is little affected by them.
In August, September, and part of October, fair clear weather comes in
agreeable contrast, although in the latter month snow occasionally falls.
The change of weather about the middle of October is sudden, winter gene-
rally usurping the warmth of summer in a day, and setting in with all its
vigour; at this period ice begins to form in Tartary Strait, and the season
for sailing vessels to be in the gulf on ordinary occasions must be considered
as having terminated.
Suffrein Bay, formed by Cape Suffrein to the South, in lat. 47° 20′ N., is
but an exposed anchorage, surrounded by vast forests which extend out of
sight. The cape is fronted by rocks, which stretch half a mile into the
offing. Fish River, in 47° 55′ N., has anchorage off its entrance in 9 fathoms,
at about a mile from the land, sheltered from N.W. and westerly winds.
Low Cape, in 48° 28′ N., has high land behind it, and a depth of 8 fathoms
was obtained a mile off shore.
From Low Cape the coast-line northward is irregular for 15 miles; its
trend is then N. by E. 20 miles to Beachy Head. It is steep-to, the lead
giving 14 to 17 fathoms at 2 miles off shore.
HADSHI or Barracouta Bay.-The entrance to this bay (named also
Port Impérial), in lat. 49° 2′ N., is between Freeman Point on the North, and
Tullo Island on the South, which bear N. by W. and S. by E. from each
other, distant three-quarters of a mile. The general depths in the bay are
5 to 15 fathoms over a mud bottom. The entrance is open to the eastward,
but within the bay are several inlets, which afford shelter for all classes
of vessels. The only danger is the Carr Bank, with 1 and 2 fathoms on it,
which extends a cable off shore on the N.W. side of the entrance, one-third
the distance between Sybille Head and Freeman Point.
This bay remains frozen for about the same time as Castries Bay. Its
582
GULF OF TARTARY.
shores are covered with wood fit for building purposes, such as the larch,
fir, and stone-pine.*
Vessels approaching this harbour in foggy weather should not shoal their
water under 40 or 35 fathoms, unless well assured of their position, and in
all cases due allowance must be made for currents. They are sometimes ex-
tremely variable.
In Hadshi Bay it is high water, full and change, at 10h 0m, and the rise is
3 to 4 feet.
The COAST from Beachy Head trends in a northerly direction to Castries
Bay, and is steep-to; 25 and 30 fathoms have been obtained at a cable's
length off Cape Byki or Lesseps, in lat. 49° 33′ N. The coast assumes a
bolder aspect in proceeding northwards.
Cape Destitution, in 49° 46′ N., is bold, high land, having a bay on its
North side, which affords good shelter from S.E. to S. W., in 9 or 10 fa-
thoms. Inland it is closed by a shelving beach, on which are scattered some
Tartar huts.-(Mr. Tronson.) Cape Dent, in 50° 0′ N., declines to the east-
ward, and has a bay on its North side.
CASTRIES BAY was re-examined by Captain Forsyth in H.M.S. Hornet in
1855. It is used by vessels to procure a pilot, or to discharge their cargoes,
when bound to the Amúr, as those above 12 feet draught cannot enter that
river. Its entrance is 4 miles wide between Kloster-camp or Quoin Point, on
the South, and Castries Point on the North. Quoin Point is in lat. 51° 28′
North. Although the greater part of the bay is open to easterly winds,
which throw in a heavy sea, yet vessels, if their draught will permit, will
find shelter behind the islands in it, particularly at its head on the West
side of Observatory Island. The bay is covered with ice from the middle of
November or December to April. The isthmus which separates it from the
principal branch of the Amúr is not more than 40 miles across, and Lake
Kyzi is only 15 miles distant. At the head of the bay is the Russian settle-
ment Alexandrovsky, composed of five or six wooden houses.†
Danger Rock (marked by poles), upon which the sea occasionally breaks
heavily, but which does not show in smooth water, lies in the middle of the
entrance, with the western part of the promontory (the East extreme of
which is Quoin Point) in line with the bluff headland beyond, bearing about
South.
* This bay was discovered by H.M.S. Barracouta, May 12th, 1856. The Russian settle-
ment is in an inlet on the western side of the harbour, the entrance of which is 1 mile
within the outer points. Here, at the head of a small bay, was found the burnt remains of
the Russian frigate Pallas, which escaped our cruisers in 1854-5. The settlement is built
on a rising ground cleared of wood, and supplied with water from two artificial wells.
+ The port in Castries Bay had recently been taken possession of by the Russians when
the fleet was here in 1855. The road from the port to the Amur River is comparatively
good, and on it are established posts.
NAJASSEE-JONQUIERE BAY.
583
In making the bay from the southward two small high and barren islets
will be seen near the coast, about 16 miles southward of Quoin Point. In
entering the bay and passing southward of Danger Rock, the reef, which
extends a considerable distance from the North end of Oyster Island, must
be guarded against, but that channel is in other respects clear.
Light.-A fixed white light, visible from seaward
bearing from N.E. E. (round by the North) to S.E. S., is shown from a
square wooden tower, 38 feet high, painted white, with a grey lantern, on
Quoin Point, the South point of entrance to Castries Bay. It is elevated
250 feet above the sea, and visible in clear weather at 18 miles.
and in the bay when
It is high water, full and change, in Castries Bay, at 10h 30m, and the rise
is about 6 feet.
NAJASSEE, on the West coast of Saghalin, opposite Cape Lesseps, is an
open bay, frequented for its coal mines. It was visited by Lloyd's agent at
Alexandrovsky in Castries Bay, in 1867. He says: The coal mines at
Najassee are in about lat. 49° 35′ to 49° 40′. I found that vessels can lie
and load there, without particular danger, in open roadstead. The coast
runs N. and S.; Cape Najassee, about 5 miles South of Najassee River,
stands out only less than 1 mile; the loading place is to the North of the
river. Depth of water, about one mile from shore, 13 to 16 feet, deepening
to 8 and 9 fathoms 3 to 4 miles from shore. Weather mostly calm during
summer; winds, from April to September, mostly moderate, from N.E. to
S.S.E.; later, the winds turn over S. to W. and case the swell to set
towards Saghalin. During the spring fogs on this side of the gulf; the
Saghalin coast remains nearly always and entirely clear.
JONQUIERE BAY, on the West coast of Saghalin Island, about 1 mile
N.E. of Cape Otsisi, is in lat. 50° 54′ N., and may be recognized by three
remarkable detached pinnacle rocks, about 50 feet high, off its South point.
This bay should be looked upon only as a fine weather anchorage. It
affords shelter from N.E. (round by the East) to South, but is exposed
to all other winds, and the holding ground is mostly bad. A small river
finds an outlet in the bay, and boats can pass over its bar when the tide
is in.
Coal. A few huts of the natives will be seen on the South part of the
above river entrance, and between these and Pinnacle Point are seams of
good surface coal, some of which, being close to the water's edge, can be
easily worked.
Supplies. Large quantities of fish were taken in Jonquière Bay by haul-
ing the seine on the beach to the northward of the huts, and good sized flat
fish were caught with hook and line about a quarter of a mile off shore, in
3 or 4 fathoms water. Wild fowl and white hares are numerous.
The watering-place is inconvenient. Drift wood is plentiful.
584
GULF AND RIVER AMUR.
TIDES.-The time of high water, full and change, in Jonquière Bay, is
at 10h, and the rise is about 6 feet.
GULF AND RIVER AMUR.
The GULF of AMUR, or Saghalin, is 70 miles long, North and South,
and 25 miles at its greatest breadth. The waters of the river Amúr, which
empty themselves into this vast basin with great rapidity, have formed
banks of sand and mud, which cover almost its whole surface, barely leaving
the shallow channels by which the stream flows on one side to the Sea of
Okhotsk and on the other to the Strait of Tartary; this renders the entrance
of this great river difficult, and at times dangerous.
Immediately North of Cape Lazaref, at the South entrance of the gulf,
the channel from the Strait of Tartary divides into two branches. That
which goes to the N.N.W., narrow and slightly winding, is called the South
Fairway, and keeps close to the Tartary shore. It has a tortuous course to
Nikolaevsk, which is 65 miles from Cape Lazaref. The channel varies from
three-quarters of a mile to 2 miles in width; the depths are generally small,
but occasionally are as much as 14 and 19 fathoms. The least water is 24
fathoms, and a flat with this depth extends for nearly 10 miles between
Capes Koisakoi and Prongé, and this may be considered the real bar of the
river, and must be crossed to enter it. Beyond this bar the water deepens,
and 11 fathoms are found abreast the town of Nikolaevsk, above which the
river is said to be navigable for 1,500 miles.
The N.N.E. branch, or Saghalin Fairway, is wider and deeper than the
other, the least depth being 18 feet at low water. It keeps along the Sag-
halin shore, at about 5 miles distant, for nearly 60 miles, until just North of
Cape Halezof, where it almost touches the coast; and 20 miles further
North, between Capes Golovachef and Menshikof, 16 miles apart, it opens
out into the Sea of Okhotsk.
The RIVER AMUR, or Saghalin Ula, is formed of the streams Shilka
and Argun, which unite in lat. 53° 30′ N. on the frontiers of Russia and
China. The former of these consist of the Ingoda and Onon; the latter
being the main stream which rises S.E. of Lake Baikal, in the mountain
chain called Khing-khan Ula by the Chinese, and Yablonoi Krebit by the
Russians.
The river flows East as far as Nertchinsk. Here it is said to be 600 yards
wide, and very deep; then North, then again East, when it receives the
*The work by the late Thos. W. Atkinson, Esq., F.R G.S., entitled "Travels in the
Regions of the Upper and Lower Amoor," London, 1860, is, with his previous work,
"Oriental and Western Siberia," 1858, a most interesting account of this accomplished
artist's long residence and journeys in these previously almost unknown regions.
NIKOLAEVSK.
585
Argun, which comes from the South near Baksanova. The united streams,
under the name of Amúr, continue to the East and S.E., receiving from the
South the affluents Sungari and Usúri, and reaching its southern limit in
47° 48′ N., at the Mariensk Post or Kisi, one of the most important Russian
stations on the Amúr. A battery has been constructed that commands
both the entrance to the port and the river. It is from this post that the
overland route to Castries Bay (page 582) starts. It would be a most im-
portant line for a railway. From Mariensk the river turns abruptly to the
N.E. and East, falling into the Gulf of Amúr between Capes Prongé and
Tebakh, which are 8 miles apart, and both are fortified. The length of the
Amúr, including all its windings, is about 2,500 miles; it is navigable for
large vessels as far as Nertchinsk, 1,500 miles from its mouth, in the sum-
mer season; in the winter it is frozen over.
Nikolaevsk.-The fortress of Nikolaevsk is built on the left bank of the
river, at 22 miles from the entrance. It is surrounded by a few houses, and
defended by batteries and strong advanced works. The channels leading
from the gulf to the anchorage abreast it are frequently changing, owing to
the great débris sent down by the strong current of the river, and with the
constant fogs, frequent squalls, and gales, render the approach both difficult
and dangerous.
66
Nicolaiefski or Nikolaevsk is a town of very modern growth.
"It is,"
says Mr. Knox, who visited it in 1866 for the Telegraph Expedition, em-
phatically a government town, three-fourths of the inhabitants being directly
or indirectly in the service of the Emperor. It has a 'port' or naval
establishment, containing dock-yards, machine shops, foundries, and all the
odds and ends of sheds, warehouses, and factories necessary to the formation
of a naval station. All the houses in the town are of wood, the great ma-
jority are of logs, either rough or hewn. Going back from the river the
streets begin grandly, and promise a great deal that they do not perform.
For one or two squares they are all good, the third square is full of stumps,
and when you reach the fifth and sixth, there is little street to be found.” *
There are now a large number of steamers on the Amoor. The season
when the river is open is limited to about half the year.
Supplies and assistance in the way of repairs are difficult to be obtained at
Nikolaevsk. Provisions even cannot be had. Timber is plentiful, and the
forests extend as far as the eye can reach, but the export of wood is strictly
forbidden.
Light.-A square wooden tower, 29 feet high, painted white, with grey
lantern, is erected on the western part of the battery, at the East end of
Constantine Island, in the Amur, abreast Nikolaevsk. It exhibits at 40 feet
* Harper's Magazine, New York, Aug. 1868.
586
THE COAST OF MANCHURIA.
above high water a fixed white lens light of the sixth order, visible in clear
weather at 7 miles.
A vessel entering the Gulf of Amur from the Strait of Tartary should
proceed with great caution, with a boat sounding on each bow, and an an-
chor ready at a moment's notice. At different intervals great changes have
been announced in the channels.
In 1860 the South Fairway Channel was buoyed, and conspicuous wooden
beacons were erected on the land to guide through the different bends. The
beacon buoys which carry flags may be passed on either side.
Merchant vessels have often remained aground in it for weeks together,
and frequently throw a portion of their cargoes overboard to lighten. No
permanent directions can be found useful.
At Cape Lazaref the tide flowed twice in the twenty-four hours; the rise
was 5 feet, and the ebb ran 3 to 4 knots. Abreast of Chomé Island the rise
was 4 feet, and the water remained at its highest level about fifty minutes.
From Cape Djaoré to Cape Prongé there appeared to be no regularity in
the tidal action, it being greatly influenced by the winds. It was high water
only once in twenty-four hours, and the tide rose 1 foot with a southerly and
3 feet with a northerly wind.
During the few days H.M. ships were off the northern entrance of the
Gulf of Amur in 1855-56, the greatest rise of tide observed was 5 ft. The
current from the Amur set to the N.N.E. over the banks sometimes 3 knots
per hour.
THE COAST OF MANCHURIA.
The coast of what is now Russian Tartary was but little known till the
imperial power in China began to decline. When internal rebellion, and
external influence were brought to bear on that enormous empire, the coun-
tries which surrounded it, and over which it may be said that its sway was
but limited, became of even less importance, and thus the Manchurian terri-
tories were the more easily ceded to Russia, when the Amur and the adja-
cent countries were settled and commerce opened. The Russian boundary
has been made to gradually encroach on the Chinese regions, and is now
established at the Tuman River.*
In the following brief remarks, extracted from the China Pilot, we com-
mence with the southern point, at the Korean boundary. The coast has
been surveyed at different times, and hence there is some confusion of names,
but they are given in the order adopted in the China Pilot.
* A detailed account of these Russian acquisitions is given by Dr. W. G. Blackie,
F.R.G.S., in the Journal of the British Association, 1858.
POSIETTE BAY.
587
The first names here given are those of the Russian authorities of 1859,
but it may be again stated that the others are given by previous surveyors.
The French corvette Capricieuse examined Posiette Bay and the anchorages
at its head in 1852. It was still further examined by the Russian frigate
Pallas in 1854, and it was here that her survey terminated. In 1855 a sur-
vey was made of D'Anville Gulf, and the gulfs of Guérin and Napoleon, by
F. H. May, Master of H.M.S. Winchester, and D. H. Wilder, Master of
H.M.S. Nankin.
POSIETTE BAY, or D'Anville Gulf, is comprised between Sisuro Point to
the South, and Cape Gamova or Hugon to the North, about 33 miles apart.
This latter cape, rising 1,800 feet above the sea, is the end of a peninsula
extending to the South. It is visible 30 miles off, and, coming from the
N.E., is a good land-mark for this bay, as Cape Casy is from the South.
The land at the bottom of the bay is low and marshy. At the head of the
bay are the anchorages, named Pallada Road (Capricieuse Bay), Novogorod
Harbour (Port Louis), and Expedition Bay (Napoleon Road).
Farugelma Island (Cassini Island), lying in the S.W. part of Posiette
Bay, is 3 miles in circumference and 413 feet high. It forms a good mark
for entering the bay. There are two villages on its West face. A reef of
rocks extends more than half a mile from its S.W. point, and another reef
projects from its N.W. point. At half and two-thirds of a mile N.N.E. E.
and E. by N. & N. respectively from its north-eastern point lie the Pilier and
Buoy Rocks; the latter rock hardly shows at high water.
Moule Bay is partly sheltered to the S.E. by Farugelma Island, and to
the N.E. by Bodisko Peninsula, the summit of which, named Mount Direction,
is 820 feet high. The bay is 12 mile deep, North and South, and 1 mile
wide at entrance, which is narrowed by a reef of rocks, awash, stretching
nearly 2 cables off the West shore. With the wind from S.E. to S.S.E. a
heavy swell sets in. The highest tides observed rose about 3½ feet.
Pallada Road, comprised between Mount Direction to the South, and
Klaproth Point to the North, is 5 miles deep N.W. and S.E., with a mean
width of 3 miles. It affords fair anchorage within Balbi and Malte Brun
points, the inner points of the bay, in from 12 to 5 fathoms, over mud
bottom.
Expedition Bay is a good and secure harbour, and affords a safe retreat
for vessels not wishing to ride out a south-easterly gale in Pallada Road.
The entrance to it is nearly half a mile wide, but it is divided into two
channels by a large bare rock named the Mingan. The eastern of these
channels should on no account be taken. The other channel on the West
side of the Mingan must be entered with caution, for it is narrow, and a
shoal extends nearly half-way across from the Musoir, so that it is advisable
rather to close the Mingan. Entering the bay, take care to avoid a small
knoll of 3 fathoms, nearly in the centre of the fairway.
588
THE COAST OF MANCHURIA.
The observation spot on the Musoir Rock was found by the Winchester to
be in lat. 42° 37′ 22″ N., long. 130° 44′ 10″. By the Russian chart it is in.
lat. 42° 37′ 50″ N., long. 130° 50′ 50″ E.
It is high water, full and change, at the entrance to Expedition Bay, at
2h 30m, and the rise is about 2 feet.
Novogorod Harbour, or Port Louis.-After passing through the channel
between the Musoir and Mingan rocks, Novogorod Harbour will open out
to the eastward. There are no dangers after the harbour is open. Au-
chorage may be taken anywhere in mid-channel.
A hard sandy spit runs across the upper part of the harbour. The har-
bour abounds with fish. There are several small runs of good water; there
are also various beds of oysters, and one of large mussels. The hills are
covered with long grass, and abound with pheasants, partridges, and foxes;
and the low ground, which is swampy, with woodcock and snipe.
AMUR BAY or Guerin Gulf.-H.M.S. Winchester left Expedition Bay
Sept. 3rd, 1855, and rounding Gamova Point passed between it and the
Korsakov or Pelées Islands; from thence she proceeded to the N.E. into Amur
Bay (Guerin Gulf), 40 miles in extent, in which there are several good an-
chorages. The only danger seen was a rock awash, lying about N.W. W.
three-quarters of a mile form the northernmost of the three small islets West
of the Korsakov Islands.
White Cliff Bay.-Passing between Red Cliff Island and the main, a
bay, named White Cliff, was observed, which apparently affords good shelter.
The South point, with rocks off it, should not be approached too near.
Slavianski Bay, or Port Bruce.—The Winchester passed eastward of the
two islands fronting White Cliff Bay, near the northernmost of which there
is a remarkable rock called the Ninepin. About 3 miles northward of these
islands is a conspicuous cliffy point, which forms the S.E. point of a secure
and deep bight, named Slavianski Bay, which forms an excellent harbour,
and is well protected by the Eugénie archipelago. Fish and potatoes were
procured from the natives, and they appear to be amply provided with those
necessaries.
Pestchanoi or Sandy Point.--When abreast Slavianski Bay a high table
hill will be seen to the north-eastward, with a tuft of trees on its summit,
called Mount Virginie, and another further in the same direction named
Mount Winchester, the eastern slope of which terminates in a low sandy point,
in lat. 43° 9′ N., long. 131° 50′ E. The anchorage, N. by E. of this point, is
good and quite land-locked.
The Sui-fun or Shilo River, at the head of Amur Bay, is apparently of
some extent, and good water can be procured about a mile from the
entrance.
EUGENIE ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
589
USOURI BAY or Napoleon Gulf is an extensive inlet, but nothing could
be seen of the least indication of a good harbour. The bay is about 30 miles
deep and about 16 broad.
The Eastern Bosphorus, between the South end of Muravief Armursky
Promontory (Albert peninsula), and the islands forming the Eugénie Archi-
pelago, is 6 miles long, and about half a mile broad in its narrowest part.
At its western entrance is a sand spit stretching half-way across the passage.
When past the spit there is no danger.
Golden Horn Bay, or Port May, on the northern side of the Eastern Bos-
phorous, is an excellent harbour.
EUGENIE ARCHIPELAGO is the chain of islands extending in a S.W.
direction from Albert peninsula. There are some good harbours in it, named
Novik Bay (Port Deans Dundas), Voevoda Bay (Port Stewart), and Boyarin
Bay (Wilder Bay), affording shelter for ships of the largest draught, and no
doubt good water can be procured at these.
AMERICA or Hornet Bay is formed at the eastern extreme of Peter the
Great Bay, and Captain C. C. Forsyth, who discovered it in H.M.S. Hornet,
in July 1856, describes it as a spacious inlet, carrying a moderate depth up
to its head, but open to southerly winds. There is snug anchorage on its
western side, between the mainland and an islet, named Fox Island. A river
flows round the foot of a peculiar conical hill at the head of the bay; it was
named Lyons River, after Lord Lyons. Many villages and several herds of
cattle were seen.
The COAST between America Bay and Islet Point was surveyed by the
Russian schooner Vostok, in 1861, but we have no description of it. From
Islet Point to St. Vladimir Bay was surveyed by H.M. ships Actæon and Dove
in 1859.
Between Islet Point, a fine bold rocky headland, and St. Vladimir Bay, the
coast is remarkably clear of treacherous dangers, a fortunate circumstance
where the navigator is so frequently enveloped in dense fogs.
As a general rule, along the coast of Manchuria, every valley which ter-
minates on the sea-beach has its stream of excellent water. Drift-wood is
generally found on the beaches.
Siau Wuhu Bay.—The first anchorage to the north-eastward of Islet Point
is a small but well sheltered one in Siau Wuhu Bay. From the southward
a hill 2,720 feet high, the most elevated in the immediate neighbourhood,
is a good mark to point out its position; it hears N.W. by N. 43 miles from
Harbour Island which partly shelters the anchorage. Vessels requiring a
refit would find the Inner harbour admirably adapted for the purpose. Ap-
proaching the bay from the north-eastward, Cape Creasy, a bold rocky head-
land, the summit of which is 695 feet high, conspicuously marks the East
side of entrance.
590
THE COAST OF MANCHURIA.
An extensive plain on the North side of the outer anchorage affords pas-
turage for a large drove of cattle (August 1859), the property of an old Chi-
naman who lives a mile or two up the river. He readily parted with some
for dollars; they were small, but the beef excellent.
Water may be obtained at a stream which empties itself into the N.E.
corner of the outer bay.
Ta-wu-hu Bay, situated 24 miles N.E. by E. of Cape Creasy, is quite ex-
posed to the southward and eastward, and can only be recommended as a
temporary anchorage for steamers. There is a village in the bay, but no
supplies could be obtained. Castle Point, N.E. by E. E. 14 miles of Ta-
wu-hu, is a remarkably fine-looking bluff, its yellow cliffs rising almost pre-
cipitously from the beach to an elevation of 1,060 feet.
Broken Head is a fine rocky promontory 5 miles N.E. of Castle Point,
and the termination of a range of hills, to the rear and northward of which
is spread an extensive and well-watered plain covered with rank vegeta-
tion, but void of trees. Off the S.E. face of Broken Head is a high rock,
like a shark's fin.
From 8 to 9 miles N.E. of Broken Head are a line of conspicuous white
cliffs on the sea face of a wooded range, and 2 miles farther a good-sized
open bay, with anchorage in 5 to 8 fathoms.
Mosquito River entrance is 2½ miles North of Broken Head. Inside the
entrance is a small basin of 3 to 5 fathoms water, quite sheltered from all
winds. The bar at entrance has 13 feet on it (1859), but probably winter
frosts alter the depths.
Low Table Point, at 20 miles N.E. by E. of Broken Head, is a low flat
cape, bordered with a vertical cliff, extending 2 miles to the eastward from
the base of a conspicuous round-topped mountain about 1,200 feet above the
sea. It is especially useful in making Olga Bay from the southward, before
Table Point is risen.
OLGA BAY, or Point Michael Seymour, in lat. 43° 46' N., was dis-
covered by H.M.S. Hornet, July 1856. It is open to the southward. There
is shelter for a few vessels from all winds in its northern part, in 10 fathoms.
The narrow passage, named Brown Channel, at its N.E. part, leads into an
inner harbour or estuary, which is well adapted for careening purposes.
Brown Channel has 3 to 4 fathoms water in it, deepening to 6 and 7
fathoms towards the careening harbour. The Russian settlement is here.
Gilbert River empties itself into the N.W. angle of the port. The mouth
is broad and shallow, but soon deepens when over the bar.
Supplies.-The seine will always procure an abundance of capital fish,
such as salmon and trout. A few fowls may also be procured, and a small
supply of fresh beef. The watering stream runs through a valley on the
ST. VLADIMIR BAY.
591
eastern side of the port, near the ordinary anchorage. Wood may be ob-
tained in any quantity.
In Olga Bay it is high water, full and change, at 5h 30m, and the rise
is about 3 feet.
The position of Olga Bay may be easily known when approaching it from
the northward by Brydone Island, on the eastern side of entrance, and the
only one on this part of the coast. Coming from the southward, the entrance
will be recognized by the opening in the land. Brydone Island is not dis-
tinguishable at any great distance, as, being only 325 feet high, it looks like
a cliff of the high hill, 1,341 feet high, behind it.
ST. VLADIMIR BAY, in lat. 43° 54′ N., was discovered by the Russian
frigate America, in 1857. Its entrance, 1 miles wide, and open to the East,
is formed between North Head or Cape Ballouzek, 347 feet high, to the North,
and South Head or Cape Watauski, 712 feet high, to the South, both of which,
when approaching the bay from the East or N.E., appear like islands. From
thence the bay extends westward, and forms three arms, one to the North,
one to the South, and the other, the smallest, to the West. The depths are
about 15 to 5 fathoms in the North and South arms.
The South arm is well sheltered, but, as a slight swell is frequently expe-
rienced there, it can scarcely be recommended as a fit place for careening,
especially with Olga Bay in such close proximity, where there is a Russian
settlement and every facility for repairs. To the South it communicates with
a stream with a lake of 16 to 10 feet water, which with little trouble might
be formed into a graving dock.
There is no fixed population in this bay. A few bullocks were seen, but
their owners would not part with them for anything but sycee silver, re-
fusing dollars.
The tides are irregular in St. Vladimir Bay. It is high water, full and
change, at 1, and the range is about 2 feet.
The COAST from St. Vladimir Bay trends in a N.E. by N. direction to
Barracouta Harbour, in 49° 2′ N., then N. by E. to Castries Bay, and is free
from apparent danger. Its outline was but imperfectly known until 1855,
when H.M. ships Sybille and Barracouta sailed along it, and determined the
following points and anchorages.
Shelter Bay, in 44° 28′ N., affords shelter from N.E. winds. Good fresh
water can be obtained in a river a cable wide, with a bar at its mouth,
within which there is a depth of 9 feet. It affords a supply of fish.*
Sybille Bay, in 44° 44′ N., affords shelter from S.S.E. winds; its entrance
is remarkable from having on either side some prominent pinnacled rocks,
* This coast is described in Mr. Tronson's Voyage of the Barracouta, 1859, p. 326, &c.
592
THE COAST OF MANCHURIA.
high and isolated. The bay is closed by a broad valley, through which
some streams run and form a small river, which empties itself into the bay.
Pique Bay, in lat. 44° 46′ N., has good shelter from N.E. and easterly
winds. The best anchorage is in 5 fathoms, with the point bearing S.E.
by E. Cattle may be obtained at this anchorage.
Bullock Bay, in 45° 2′ N., affords but bad anchorage. Bullocks and fowls
can be procured, but with difficulty.
Luké Point, in 45° 19′ N., is high, bluff, and woody. Cape Disappointment,
in 45° 40′ N., has rocks extending a cable from it.
The Gulf of Tartary, which commences at Cape Disappointment, is de-
scribed previously, pages 580-584.
(593)
CHAPTER XI.
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
THE celebrated and long mysterious traveller, Marco Polo, was the first
to announce to the western world the existence of the rich and powerful
island of Xipangu, now known to be Japan. In 1542 a Portuguese, Mendez
Pinto, was cast by a storm on its shores, and a Portuguese settlement from
Malacca was soon afterwards made on Kiusiu. In June, 1588, some citizens
of Rotterdam fitted out a small fleet of five ships to trade in the Indian Ar-
chipelago, and injure, as much as possible, the commerce and power of Spain.
Among several Englishmen in this fleet, were William Adams, of Gillingham,
near Rochester, and Timothy Shotter, who had accompanied the famous
Cavendish in his circumnavigation. The venture was pre-eminently unfor-
tunate. Only one ship, and that the smallest, the Joyous Message, commanded
by Siebold de Weert, returned to Holland. Two of the others were de-
stroyed, and the fourth, in which were these two Englishmen, reached Japan
a mere wreck. They were taken prisoners; and, after some confinement,
Adams was taken into the confidence of the emperor; the rest departed.
He was raised to great honours; became of first importance in the political
and commercial affairs of the empire; but did not succeed to the extent of
his intentions, having gained privileges only for the Dutch, who have stu-
diously avoided mention of his part in thier establishment. Some extensive
privileges were also granted, at his instigation, to the English East India
Company, to establish a factory at Firando.*
As is well known, the only port allowed to be open to foreigners, and this
permission was limited to the Dutch and Chinese, was the Port of Nagasaki,
or rather for the Dutch, the Island of Dezima, lying before it. But the
* The first English who visited it were with Capt. Saris, who came to the relief of Adams
from England, in 1611, arriving at Firando June 9th, 1613.
North Pacific.
2 Q
594
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
Japanese maintained a rigid exclusiveness, and but little was known to
Europe about the country. Without enumerating the older authors, the
principal work on Japan was the collection from the notices of the Dutch
presidents, by Dr. Ph. Fr. van Siebold, who visited the country in the period
between 1823-30, a magnificent work, worthy of any nation.
The events of later years have marvellously altered the relations between
Japan and western civilization. The various attempts at obtaining some
admission into Japanese affairs, made prior to 1853, cannot here be enun-
ciated. But in that year, July 8th, Commodore Perry, U.S.N., appeared off
the entrance to Yedo Bay, with two large steam frigates and two sloops of
war. He ostensibly sought at first only to abolish the barbarous Japanese
laws, which consigned shipwrecked seamen to death, and their vessels to
destruction. The steady resistance to any intercourse, overawed, however,
by the presence of this formidable force, gradually gave way, and some con-
cessions were granted before the departure of the fleet, which left with a
promise, or menace, from Commodore Perry, that he intended to return for
a more definite answer with a "larger fleet" in the following year. Accord-
ingly, on February 12th, 1854, a squadron of nine war vessels appeared in
the Bay of Yedo, and after skiful negotiation a treaty of friendship was
concluded between the Tycoon and the United States, and permission was
granted to locate a consul at Simoda, an insignificant place at the South
extreme of the Idsu Peninsula, on the West side of Yedo Bay.
The second stage of this international negotiation was reached by Mr.
Harris, the U.S. diplomat, who, by unremitting zeal, contrived to enter Yedo
at the end of 1857, not to leave it till April, 1858, with the treaty of com-
merce framed. This great step was followed by similar concessions being
granted to the principal European powers; and that with great Britain was
ratified at Yedo, July 11th, 1859. After all these apparent victories, it was
discovered that these treaties were illegal, having been made with the Tycoon
of the period, whereas it should have been ratified by the Mikado, but this
was remedied by the appearance of the allied fleet from China and the sub-
sequent full recognition of the rights of the external world to trade at various
ports. Of the subsequent troubles nothing can be said here. The works of
Sir Rutherford Alcock, Captain Sherard Osborn, R.N., &c., &c., will supply
all that can be required.
Climate. The following observations upon this subject, connected with
Japan, are made by Van Siebold :-"In speaking of ice, frost, and snow,
within 32° of the equator, we should consider the geographic position of the
Japanese Islands, and cite an obsevation which has been more than once
made, and at last confirmed by Alex. de Humboldt. The eastern part of
Europe, and the immense continent of Asia, are vastly more cold, under the
same latitude, than western Europe, making allowance for the greater or less
elevation above the sea level. The climate of islands being much milder
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
595
than that of continents, it can scarcely be comprehended that the temperature
should be lower in Japan than those European countries under the same
latitude. But the cause of this contradiction is found in the low temperature
of Asia, which, surrounding the Japanese and Kurile Islands on the West
and North, has a very decided influence on their climate. From the proximity
of the continent, and the winds blowing off that coast during a portion of the
year, the cold arises which prevails in Japan, particularly in the North and
N.W. Thus in lat. 32° N. the thermometer descends on the coast to 30° and
29° Fahr. It freezes to several lines in thickness, and snow falls that re-
mains on the ground for several days. In lat. 36° the lakes, as those of
Suwa on the Sinano, are covered with a bed of ice, which, between 38° and
40°, becomes thick enough for the river to be crossed on foot. In the island
of Tsusima (lat. 34° 12′ N., long. 126° 55′ E.) rice will not grow; near
Matsmae, in the Island of Yedo, wheat returns but a very poor harvest; and
on Cape Soja (lat. 45° 21′ N., long. 140° 29′ E.) the wild Aïnos, a vigorous
race, are obliged to retire into caverns, to preserve themselves from the in-
tolerable rigour of winter. On the other hand, the S.E. and eastern sides,
protected from the freezing winds of Asia by high chains of mountains,
which traverse these great Islands of Kiusiu, Sikok, and Nipon, in a direc-
tion parallel to the continent, have a more fertile and more temperate climate.
In those parts of the country between lat. 31° and 34°, the palm, the banana,
myrtle, and other plants of the torrid zone, are found. In some parts the
sugar-cane is successfully cultivated, and they gather two rice harvests each
year. The environs of Sendai, a city in lat. 38° 16′ N., long. 138° 36′ E.,
near Niegata, produce this grain in such abundance, that, notwithstanding
their northern position, they are in reality, as they are called, the granaries
of Yedo, the most populous city of the country. But it is more particularly
in the rigorous season, which lasts from the commencement of January to
the end of February, that this difference between the western and eastern
shores of Japan becomes most remarkable. At Dezima (Nagasaki), for ex-
ample, in lat. 32° 45′ N., long. 127° 31′ E., the thermometer marks 45° Fahr. ;
while at Yedo, in lat. 35° 41', long. 137' 22' E., it rises to 56°; so that the
position of the capital, more easterly by 9° 51′ than the factory, raises its
temperature higher by 11º, although it is only 3° nearer the pole. Thus in
the two months of winter in which these observations were made, the coasts
facing the Asiatic continent were exposed for thirty-seven days consecutively
to the freezing winds from N.W. and North. This circumstance explains,
besides, why the white mountain (Siro jama), which is on the western coast
of Nipon, in lat. 36°, is covered with perpetual snow at 8,200 feet above the
sea ; and why Fusi-jama, at the eastern extremity of the island, with its summit
at 12,450 feet, remains without snow for months together.
"During the hot weather in July and August, when the winds blow from
South and S.E., this disproportion in the temperature disappears, and the
2Q2
596
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
mean height of the thermometer for this season is 79° at Dezima, and 76° at
Yedo. On the South and S.E. coasts, then refreshed by these winds, it
hardly exceeds 85°; nevertheless in the South and S. W. parts of Kiusiu, and
chiefly in the bays sheltered from the breezes, it often rises to 90° and 98°,
and sometimes even to 100°."
The empire of Japan is composed of four large islands, Kiusiu, Sikok,
Nipon,* and Yezo, and numerous smaller islands. Nipon, the largest and
most important of these, and that which gives its name to the whole empire,
is more than 700 miles in length N.E. and S.W., and its breadth varies from
50 to 150 miles. South of Nipon, and separated from it by a narrow chan-
nel, is Kiusiu. Lying N.E. of Kiusiu, and eastward of the South extreme
of Nipon, is the island of Sikok, about 130 miles in length. It is separated
from Kiusiu by the Boungo channel, and with Kiusiu and the western part
of Nipon forms a basin or inland sea named Seto Uchi. North of Nipon,
and separated from it by the Strait of Tsugar, is the large island of
Yezo, a conquest and colony of Japan. Its form is that of an irregular
triangle.
1
The character of
health, in conse-
At Hakodadi, the climate in winter is variable. In the winter of 1859-
60, the greatest depression of the thermometer was 12°.
the winter season is uneven, and acts prejudicially on the
quence of the great variability of the atmosphere, thaws and sharp frosts
alternating. North-westerly winds blow for four months, and snow fell in
the winter of 1859 daily for six weeks. Sir R. Alcock says the winter is
almost Siberian, with long continued and heavy falls of snow, the thermometer
standing many degrees below zero.
Fogs are very prevalent on the coasts of Japan, especially in the northern
parts, and thunderstorms are frequent. In June and July, they occur fre-
quently in the Korea Strait; further to the North they envelope the coasts of
Manchuria till the middle of July.
Earthquakes.-The whole region of the Japanese Islands is volcanic, and
many of the eruptions are fraught with extreme danger to ships. At Yedo,
one occurred in August, 1783, exceeding in its horrors and wide spread deso-
lation that of Lisbon. Another occurred at Yedo on the 10th Nov. 1855,
which is said to have caused the destruction of 100,000 dwellings and 54
temples, and the death of 30,000 persons.
In 1854 the town of Simoda was reduced to ruins, and the Russian frigate
* Nipon is applied in Japan to the whole empire. In the two words of the Chinese cha-
racters which compose it, Jih Pun, it means the place or rising of the sun.
The Japanese
soften the first letter into n,
j corresponding with our y.
Jeddo should be pronounced
and so make it Ni Pun, the Dutch spelling it Jeh Pun, their
The English, giving the harsher sound to j, call it Japan; so
Yedo for the same reason, and is hereafter spelt so.
ISLAND OF KIUSIU.
597
Diana nearly wrecked in the harbour, being whirled many times round her
anchors, at one time aground, at another in many fathoms depth.
She was
then greatly injured, and was subsequently lost in an inexplicable submarine
tornado, whilst in tow of a multitude of Japanese boats which deserted her
suddenly at some, to them, well known warning.
Simabara, in Kiusiu, is also a locality of terrible earthquakes, one of which
is said to have altered the whole feature and coast line of the neighbouring
province.
The Japanese Current, or Kuro Siwo, as it is called by the Japanese in
one point of its course, is an immense stream which rushes past the southern
coasts of the Japanese Archipelago towards the N.E., and is exactly analo-
gous to the Gulf Stream in the North Atlantic. It has been observed by
every voyager in these regions; and, like the Atlantic Stream, may be traced
to a great distance to the eastward, and evidences of this drift have been
frequently found on the American coast, as in the remains of junks, or of
these vessels with their crews being drifted on to the American territories, as
has been previously related.
But the Pacific current differs from the Atlantic Stream in not being con-
fined in a narrow channel at its outset, and in the strongest part of its
course. Hence its velocity and direction are not so constant, and some great
variations in the current have been experienced, and these, too, without any
apparent cause. Thus there can be no dependance placed on its rate or
direction, and inshore it is certainly controlled or altered by tidal action. In
a later part of this work this remarkable stream will be noticed more at
length, in the section specially devoted to currents.
ISLAND OF KIUSIU.
The word Kiusiu, according to Kampfer, signifies "country of nine," in
reference to its division into nine larger provinces. It is 65 leagues in
length from N. to S., and 40 leagues in breadth. It is separated from Nipon
by the Simonoseki channel, which at its western entrance is only half a mile
in width. The strait which separates it from Sikok also is contracted
to 10 miles broad at one point. The Strait of Van Diemen forms its
southern boundary, and the Strait of Corea, or Koraï, is on the western
side.
The Japanese Archipelago has never been properly surveyed. Some por-
tions have been minutely examined, especially the vicinities of the treaty ports
where European commerce has hitherto been allowed. In addition to the sur-
veys made by the officers of the American squadron in 1853-4, and the British
fleet in 1863, there are various portions derived from the surveys of Com-
mander J. Ward, R.N., in the Rifleman; of Commander Brooker, R.N., in
the Sylvia; and especially of Commander C. Bullock, R.N., in the Serpent.
598
ISLAND OF KIUSIU.
All these and others have been connected together by a most remarkable
map. During the political negotiations this perfect representation of the
empire was delivered to our representatives, and it was found to be a regular
trigonometrical survey of 6 miles to an inch, and so accurate that, when
tested by the surveyors, it was found that very great reliance could be placed
on it. Such a geographical work deserves especial mention.*
The ensuing directions are those given in the China Pilot; and, though
belonging to various authors, have been collected, arranged, and amplified
by Commander C. Bullock, R.N. These directions commence with the
southern extremity of the Archipelago, which is, although differently arranged
to the preceding portion of this work, has been followed here, as it is thought
more convenient than proceeding from the northward.
VAN DIEMEN STRAIT separates Kiusiu from a group of volcanic
islands, which, extending in a S.S.W. direction, connect this extremity of
Japan with the volcanic ranges of the Philippine Islands. They will be
described in a future Chapter. These islands, on the South side of this
it ait, are high, and apparently of safe approach, as is also the South end
of Kiusiu on its North side. On the North side is Kagosima Gulf, of which
Cape Chichakoff forms the S.E. point of entrance, and a remarkable moun-
tain, named Horner Peak by Krusenstern, the N.W. point. This mountain,
with a similar mountain on Iwoga sima on the southern side of the strait,
both of great height, form two conspicuous land-marks when approaching
the strait from the westward. The whole of the above gulf, excepting
to the North, is surrounded by high mountains, covered with verdure,
which stretch away along the coast to the north-eastward of Cape Chi-
chakoff.
CAPE CHICHAKOFF (Satano misaki) the south-western extremity of the
Japan Archipelago, is the western and somewhat low extremity of very high
land, which has no remarkable feature. It is about 500 feet high, and has
three remarkable rocks lying close off it, one of which, bearing West from
the extreme of the cape, is of a sugar-loaf shape and perforated at its base.
These, with a small island lying South about 2 cables, and another East
about a quarter of a mile from the pitch of the cape, will enable the seaman
*There is a sad story in connexion with this map. It is related in Commodore Perry's
"Narrative," page 88. The story is thus told by a modern writer on Japan. "Von
Siebold had been with Colonel Strurler, the Dezima chief, to Yedo; the Japanese astrono-
mer, Takahasi Lakusaimon, had, in violation of the law, furnished him with a copy of a re-
cently made map of Japan. The draughtsman who made the copy having become, from
some cause, offended with the astronomer, denounced him to the authorities. An investi-
gation followed, which lasted a year. Von Siebold was banished from Japan; and Taka-
hasi, and the draughtsman who accused him, both committed suicide." This occurred prior
to the commencement of the American Expedition in 1853.
KAGOSIMA.
599
at all times to recognise this headland with certainty. Soundings, of 8
fathoms, were obtained by H.M.S. Roebuck, in 1859, about 2 miles off the
cape, the perforated rock bearing N. E.
There is anchorage with easterly winds on the West side of the cape,
with its extreme bearing S.S.W., and perhaps a more sheltered position
is in the N.E. corner of the first bay to the northward of the cape.
KAGOSIMA GULF is an arm of the sea 35 miles in length and 5 to 10 in
breadth, on the western side of Cape Chichagoff, which runs in a North
direction into the southern part of Kiusiu. At 25 miles within its entrance
the large island of Sakura nearly fills the head of the gulf, with channels on
both sides leading into an inner gulf or spacious harbour, 6 miles by 9, and
quite landlocked. The western channel was surveyed by the Masters of the
fleet under the command of Vice-Admiral Kuper, in August 1862. The ex-
treme depth of the water in the gulf renders anchorage very difficult; the
fleet having only found indifferent anchorage close to the beach on the western
shore, near the Seven Rocks 4 or 5 miles South of Kagosima.
KAGOSIMA.-Facing the Island of Sakura on the West, the Kiusiu
shore projects, narrowing the western channel into the inner gulf to 7 cables
at its northern part, its length being 4 miles. On this projecting shore
stands the city of Kagosima, the fortress of the Daimio, Prince of Satsuma.*
Battery Point, to the South of the city, is low, and has a spit extending
from and around it to 2 cables, and very steep at its edge; a shoal also fills
the bay North of this point. Off the centre of Kagosima in front of the
Daimio's castle is an inner harbour or large camber, gained by entrances
between five forts of masonry, which have deep water close up to them.
Two small rivers disembogue, one on the North side of the city with long
spits off its points of entrance.
The Parker Shoal, lying in the southern part of the western channel,
has a large fort erected on it (1869). It forms a good mark, being 25
feet high. The shoal is nearly circular, and about 4 cables in extent,
and on its S.W. side is a flat of 3 to 5 fathoms where temporary an-
chorage may be obtained.
The islands Oko and Karasuka lie close off the S.W. and W. part of Sa-
kura; the latter has small spits off its North and South points; otherwise
both are steep-to.
Naku or Yama Kawa.-This small harbour, formed on the West side of
entrance of Kagosima Gulf, is the crater of an extinct volcano. Its North
part opens East to the sea by a funnel shaped passage, a quarter of a mile
in length, but only half a cable wide at its inner part. There are 4 to 41
fathoms over the lip of the crater, and a shelf off the southern shore at
* The fortress was bombarded on August 16th, 1863.
600
ISLAND OF KIUSIU.
entrance off the village of Yama kawa. In the southern part of the harbour
there is no bottom with 100 fathoms.*
The South Coast of Kiusiu trends to N.E. by E. for 30 miles to the S.W.
point of Tasman Bay, open to the S.E., and 12 miles wide. From Toyi-
misaki, its eastern point, the coast of Kiusiu runs for 100 miles to N.N.E.
with but few inflexions to the entrance of the Boungo Channel. This coast
was partially seen and laid down by Broughton and Krusenstern, but the
names they applied to the various points on it, being not recognised on the
more recent Japanese chart, cannot be enumerated here. At some future
day, when the hydrography is more complete, they may be identified.
The BOUNGO CHANNEL, which separates the islands Kiusiu and Sikok,
is from 7 to 20 miles broad, and its shores, according to the Japanese chart,
are singularly broken into projecting peninsulas. It was passed by Kæmpfer
and Thunberg, and they speak of the thousands of islands with which it is
encumbered. The allied squadron, under Admiral Sir A. L. Kuper, entered
it in August and September, 1864, and found it free from danger, and the
Japanese charts correct.
Okino Sima, forming the eastern point of the South entrance to this
channel, is large, of moderate elevation, and may be seen in clear weather
at 35 miles. To the northward of it, also towards Hima sima and towards
the main land to the eastward, the space appeared to be rocky foul
ground.
Euryalus Rock, named after H.M.S. Euryalus, is a small rocky islet,
50 feet high, lying in the middle of the Boungo Channel, 26 miles N.W.
of Okino sima. It is surrounded by rocky shoals, some above water, to
the distance of half a mile. It occupies a most excellent position for a
lighthouse.
Takanaba, the island lying nearly in the middle of the northern entrance
of the channel, has two small rocks above water, at 2 cables N.W. of it.
There appeared to be a good passage on either side of the island.
Off the south-western part of Sikok, at the entrance of this channel,
several reefs and a large island are omitted from the charts, which cannot
be specified in a short notice. Caution is therefore requisite.
Nomi, in lat. 33° 23' N., long. 133° 19′ E., is a secure and spacious har-
bour affording good anchorage in 11 to 7 fathoms mud. Its entrance is to
the westward of an island, Tosima. Reefs extend 1 mile off this headland,
* In 1863 the British barque Nelly reported having discovered a sunken rock off the
S.E. coast of Kiusiu on the western side of entrance to the Bounga Channel. Its position
is given as lat. 31° 48′ N., long. 131° 42′ E. The bottom had a white appearance, with
soundings of 8 and 5 fathoms close to the rock. But Commander Bullock, R.N., sounded
along this coast in 1866, and found from 18 to 39 fathoms near the reported position.
}
THE SETO UCHI OR INLAND SEA.
601
and also the wooded island, Tuft, lying South from it; and a flat isolated
reef, 4 feet above water, lies S. by W. 2 miles from Tuft Island, and S.S.E.
E. 21 miles from the West point of Tosima.
Susaki is also stated to be a fine harbour, but it was not examined.
Ura-No-Utsi lies 9 miles East of Nomi, and is barred across the entrance
by a sand-bank. Some shelter may be obtained in S.W. winds, in 4 to 8
fathoms.
Kotsi Inlet, in lat. 33° 30′ N., long. 133° 35′ E., has a narrow and difficult
entrance. Vessels of 15 feet draught may enter at springs. The outer an-
chorage in 7 fathoms sand cannot be recommended.
THE SETO UCHI OR INLAND SEA.
The great Inland Sea of Japan, to which the name of its eastern part has
been erroneously given, is called by the Japanese Seto Uchi. It is enclosed
between the S.W. coast of Nipon, which entirely bounds it on the North and
East; and the Islands of Kiusiu and Sikok, which bound it on the West
and South. It extends somewhat in an East and West direction, in length
240 miles, with a breadth varying from 10 to 30 miles. It has six divisions
called nadas or seas, taking their names generally from the provinces, the
coasts of which they wash; thus, the western part of the sea, as far as the
Boungo Channel, is called the Suwo nada; and proceeding East, we have in
succession, Iyo nada, Misama nada, Bingo nada, Harima nada, and lastly
Isumi nada, sometimes called the Gulf of Oö saka.
The Seto Uchi was first navigated by H.M.S. Cruizer, in 1859, and it was
passed throughout bythe allied fleet under Admiral Sir A. L. Kuper, in 1864.
It contains upwards of 300 islands and rocks, with but few known dangers,
and has a sea-board of nearly 700 miles, on which are situate numerous
large towns and several of the provincial capitals. It abounds with safe and
convenient anchorages. It communicates with the Pacific by the Kii Chan-
nel on the East, and by the Boungo Channel, between Kiusiu and Sikok, on
the South; and with the Sea of Japan by the Strait of Simonoseki on the
West. There is a great maritime trade along its populous shores, as well as
the through traffic to Oö saka, the chief seat of commerce of the empire, and
the seaport of its capital, Miako.
The Seto Uchi can be navigated with safety at all seasons of the year,
and even under favourable circumstances during the night, the more particu-
larly now that a correct chart of it has been published.
The WESTERN ENTRANCE to the Seto Uchi is at its outer part 35
miles across, being formed by the West coast of Nipon running South for
25 miles from Kado sima, and the North coast of Kiusiu taking an easterly
direction for the same distance, from Wilson island. At the angle where
i
602
THE SETO UCHI OR INLAND SEA.
these coasts meet within 3 miles, is the large island Hiku sima, South of
which is the fairway and entrance to the Strait of Simonoseki.
The passage between Koko Sima and Wilson Island is 2 miles broad, 5 to
12 fathoms in depth, and appears clear. Lying 7 cables N.W. of this island
is a round islet which may be passed at 2 cables. A spit of gravel and large
stones, 1½ mile long, stretches from the S.E. point of Koko, nearly across
to the shore of Kiusiu.
A Shoal Patch of 15 feet, rock, lies E. & N. 3 miles from the North point
of Koko sima, with the outer high peak of Kiusiu (1,900 feet), bearing S.
by W. W. 34 miles. Wilson clump kept open of the North point of Koko
sima leads clear of it.
Siro Sima.-These two islands, one mile apart, lie W. by N. & N. 16 miles
from the outer point of Wilson Island. The north-eastern one, 400 feet
high, with a wooded summit of rounded outline, has a round rock off its
rugged North point, and a shoal spit running 4 cables off its South point.
The South island is indented, its eastern sharp peak being 290 feet high;
there is shoal water off its South point; its North point is steep-to. A rocky
patch of some extent, with less than 2 fathoms on it, lies 1 mile S. by E. of
the above sharp peak. Another rocky patch of 2 fathoms water extending
half a mile East and West, lies S. by E. 3 miles from the same peak, and
W. by N. & N. 23 miles from Iwaya Point.
3
4
Iwaya Point, on Kiusiu, with projecting ledges, is 4 miles S.S.W. of
South Siro sima, at the termination of a sandy bay 5 miles wide. A wooded
hill, 1,100 feet high, conspicuous from the offing, with a round gap in its
summit, rises 5 miles S.W. by W. W. of Iwaya Point.
Masui Sima, or Notch Island, lies N.E. by N. 6 miles North of Siro
sima, and 3 miles from the shore of Nipon, off Cape Morotzu, the hills
over which are 1,000 feet high. The channel between is free from known
danger.
The northern part of this island is a triple topped bluff, 900 feet high;
on the West coast, about the middle of it, there is a very sharp peak.
Ai Sima, or Flat Island, bearing S. by E., 6 miles from Masui Sima, is a
flat island covered with trees, and 1 mile in length. Reefs, dry or sunken,
extend 1 mile off its North point, and a spit runs S.E. by S. 14 miles from
the South point; there are also others extending 8 cables East of its South
point, and which are marked by a small square rock. To the S.W. of Ai
sima is a large detached reef with a sand patch on it.
Rokuren Island, 3 miles S.E. by E of Ai sima, has on its table
land a large and conspicuous clump of trees, 390 feet above the sea,
which is visible after rounding Wilson Island, when it will bear about
E. N.
HIKU SIMA, lying at the entrance of Simonoseki Strait, is 3 miles in
extent North and South, and has a smooth green hill 380 feet high on its
THE STRAIT OF SIMONOSEKI.
603
North point. Its western point, Cape Sizikuts, is a low rocky promontory,
with an island off it, which from its similar formation appears connected. Its
S.W. point, Entrance Head, is a wooded bluff 380 feet high.
Light.-A fixed white light is shown about two-thirds up the hill on the
North point of entrance to Fuku-ura.
There is a small anchorage on the S.E. side of Masui sima. There is
anchorage also along the Nipon shore, East of Ai sima and Rokuren, in 7
and 9 fathoms, but the coast should not be approached within half a mile,
as it is fringed with reefs; northward of this the reefs extend a mile off shore.
If, however, there be sufficient daylight to get round Rokuren, it is recom-
mended to do so instead of anchoring outside for the night. There is also
anchorage in Hamo Bay on the S.W. side of Hiku.
It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of Simonoseki Strait at
10 p.m., and the rise and fall is scarcely 4 feet.
4
If bound to Simonoseki from the westward, pass North of Wilson Island,
and steer E. by N. & N. for the North point of North Siro sima, which pass
at half a mile; then steer East, taking care not to bring the North point of
North Siro sima to the northward of West, till the centre of Ai sima bears
South, so as to clear the reefs off the North point of Ai sima. A S.E. course
will then lead up to Rokuren, which can be rounded at 3 cables, when steer
S. by W. to pass the West point of Hiku sima.
The southern channel is not recommended.
The STRAIT of SIMONOSEKI, commencing at Entrance Head, the S.W.
point of Hiku sima, is 7 miles in length, with a navigable channel varying
from 3 to 7 cables in breadth. The town of Simonoseki stands on the Nipon
shore 4 miles within the entrance.
Hiku Flat, lying W.N.W. 1 mile of Entrance Head, is a bank of sand stone
rock, 8 cables long and 3 broad, with 13 feet water on it.
Kokura Ledge is a flat of sand and rock, with shoal patches on it, front-
ing the low shore of Kiusiu South of Hiku sima, and where stands the
town of Kokura on a small stream called Ogawa. The flat extends from 1
to 2 miles off shore. Manaita Rocks, lying nearly 2 cables South of Entrance
Head, uncover towards low water. They were marked by a beacon. Narusi
Rock is a quarter of a mile S.W. of Kibune Point, the S.E. point of Hiku
sima, and 1 cable off shore. It uncovers before half ebb, and was very
dangerous, but is marked by a beacon.
Yodsibi Rock lies E.N.E. 4 cables of Kibune Point, and is best avoided.
by hugging the Hiku sima shore. It only shows at low tide, but is marked
by a small stone post with a rivet-shaped head. This post is only about 2
feet above high water, and cannot be seen at night.
SIMONOSEKI, or Shimonosaki, is an important town from its position at
the entrance of the Inland Sea. It is formed of a single principal street run-
ning for nearly 2 miles at the base of some low steep hills along the shore of
604
THE SETO UCHI OR INLAND SEA.
Nipon. Its most conspicuous building is the custom-house, recognized by its
tall white gables. A small light is exhibited on the shore at the end of a
stone balustrade at the eastern end of the town.*
Supplies of provisions and coal were obtained by the squadron with
difficulty, as it was not a treaty port. The coal, which is much used here
in the forging of nails, was of the worst possible description, and gave 75
per cent. of ash and earthy matter. Water of excellent quality was brought
off in buckets in large boats.
Mozi Saki.-The strait is narrowed to 3 cables between this point, which
is the extreme of a promontory at the North end of Kiusiu, and the eastern
end of the town of Simonoseki. Whitshed Bay and the village of Mozi are
on the S.W. side of this promontory. The heavy vessels of the allied fleet
anchored in it after the capture of Simonoseki, in September, 1864.
The Fisherman Rock, a dangerous reef, lies northward of the Tano Bank.
It is 120 yards long, N. by W. and S. by E., has only 4 feet on its southern
end, 12 feet on its northern end, and 5 fathoms between at low water springs.
There are 6 fathoms close to its South, East, and West sides. From the
rock, Mozi saki bears S.W. by W. W.; Isaki, E.S.E.; Kusi saki, N.E.
N.; and the South extreme of Manziu Island, N E. by E. E. The
custom-house at Simonoseki in line with Mosi saki, W. by S. S. clears it to
the southward.
3
4
Tano Bank lies 1 to 1 miles E. N. from Mosi saki, off Tano-üra vil-
lage. Anchorage in 5 fathoms may be found on the outer part of this bank.
North of it is the Konabuse Rock, with two heads.
Isaki is the eastern promontory of the North point of Kiusiu, and South
point of East entrance of the strait. It may be passed at 2 cables.
Light.-H.M.S. Perseus observed in December, 1865, that a light, a wood
fire in an open shed, had been placed on Isaki Point.
Kusi Saki, the North point of entrance of the strait, has reefs extending
2 cables off it. There is a large military station here, named Chofu, or
Hagi Chiofu, the fortress of the powerful Daimio, the Prince of Daisen or
Nagato.
Kanziu and Manziu are two islands E. by N. of Chofu Point. Kanziu is
low and flat, with some large rocks and a rock awash off its South end; but
Manziu is 190 feet high.
Midway between Kusi saki and Isaki, is a large Middle Ground, on which
the least depth found was 22 fathoms; but there may be less water.
* In the course of the various troubles which arose out of the jealousy of the native
princes, it was determined to attack Simonoseki, which was done by a squadron of 8 vessels,
under Admiral A. L. Kuper, on September 6, 1864.
THE SUWO NADA.
605
To facilitate the navigation of the Middle Channel, two iron buoys with cages
were placed in 1869.
1. A buoy with black and white rings in 9 fathoms on the Kanabuse or
Fisherman's Rocks; from it Mozi Hill bears S.W., Isaki Point E.S.E.,
Kusi-saki N.E. by N.
2. A red buoy in 3 fathoms on the Middle Ground; from it Kusi-saki
bears N.N.W. W., Isaki Point S.E. by S. S., and Kanabuse Buoy
W. by S.
The deepest water through the channel will be found 1½ cable southward
of the buoys.
If intending to anchor off the town of Simonoseki, take a position well
below the custom-house (not conspicuous), in 6 to 10 fathoms, out of the
tides, which are very rapid through the narrows, with strong eddies along
the shore during the western stream.
It is high water, full and change, at Simonoseki, at 8h 30m; springs rise
8 feet, neaps 6 feet. The western stream makes at 24 hours before high
water, the eastern stream 2 hours after high water, so that the western
stream continues 5 hours, and the eastern 7 hours.
Off Mozi saki the velocity at springs is 7 to 8 knots, at neaps 3 to 4 knots;
the current is at its full strength for 3 hours of each tide. There are heavy
overfalls in the eastern part of the strait at springs.
Directions.-Entering the strait: after rounding the West point of Hiku
sima, steer S.E. until the leading mark to clear Hiku Flat is brought on;
when steer S.S.E. E. easterly. This mark will also clear the Manaita
Rocks off Entrance Head. When the summit of Entrance Head bears
N.N.E. steer E.S.E. till Mozi Hill, 583 feet, opens of Kibune Point, when
haul up, taking care still to open it till Hino yama is also open, so as to clear
the Narusi Rock. Pass Kibune Point at a cable, and steer N.N.E. & E. for
Hino yama, which will lead up to Simonoseki.
After passing Simonoseki, borrow over towards Mozi saki, after rounding
which steer E. by N. & N. with the leading mark on to clear the Tano Bank.
When the point next East of Tano-üra bears S.E. by S., steer E. by S., al-
tering to S.E. E. as Isaki is approached, which pass at 2 or 3 cables, into
the Seto Uchi.
The SUWO NADA, the largest and westernmost division of the Inland
Sea, is bounded on the North by the promontory of Suwo, the western
extreme of Nipon, and limited to the East by the Island Ya sima. Its
length is nearly 60 miles, and it opens into the Pacific by the Boungo
Channel.
Iwami sima, in the eastern part of this sea, has a cone-shaped island east-
ward of it; it may be passed close on the S.W. Uwa sima, or Hekgosidi, is
small, with a cluster of rocks on the S.W.
The ensuing directions for it are somewhat abbreviated from those drawn
606
THE SETO UCHI OR INLAND SEA.
up by Captain Charles Bullock, R.N. They can only be used in connection
with the chart (Admiralty chart, No. 2875), which is composed from the Ja-
panese Government map before referred to, with subsequent corrections by
European officers. The intricate nature of the navigation cannot be verbally
described.
Steering through the Suwo nada: From Isaki, the western entrance point,
steer S.E. E. 10 miles, or until the promontory of Moto yama bears North.
An E. by S. & S. course may then be kept for 26 miles, which will lead two
miles North of Hime sima, a high island off the N.E. point of Kiusiu. Con-
tinuing 22 miles farther on the same course will lead 2 miles South of Ya
sima, which may be rounded at a mile.
In passing through the Inland Sea, as it is generally necessary to anchor
at night, so it is important that as many convenient anchorages as possible
should be indicated along the route. In the Suwo nada are the following-
In 5 to 8 fathoms for 10 miles south-eastward of the strait; or about the
southern edge of the Motoyama Shoals. In 5½ fathoms, muddy bottom, at
Mitazidi, in about lat. 34° N., long. 131° 33′ E., with the small conspicuous
island, Taba sima (Saba sima ?), bearing S.W. W. It has a great trade in
salt. On the N.W. side of the Island of Kasato, which is approached from
the S.W. passing S.E. of three islets; and also at the port of Kaminoseki,
opposite the town, which stands on the North of the East point of an island
of the same name, a large place of trade. There is anchorage, also, in the
small bay on the South side of Hime sima, in 5 to 9 fathoms, sheltered from
all northerly winds.
IYO NADA.-The next arm of the inland sea lies between the islands
against Nipon to the N.W. and the clearer western coast of Sikok, and is
about 45 miles in extent. From a mile South of Ya sima steer E. by N. 1/4
N. 14 miles, and pass half a mile South of Minasi; then shape a north-
easterly course, passing on either side of Yuri, and through the channel
North of Kosii.
Kuminasi sima, which is a mile South of Minasi, may be passed at a
quarter of a mile on the South. Yuri (or Varo sima) makes like two islands.
from the S.W., joined by a sandy beach; it may be passed on the South or
on the North at a third of a mile. Kosii is also called Gongo sima; and No-
kona, Nogowino sima.
MISIMA NADA and BINGO NADA, two divisions of the Inland Sea,
are filled with islands, and separated by a narrow strait on the Sikok shore.
From Kosii, passing South of Nokona Island, and West of Simonanba Point,
a N.E. course will lead up to Kadzitori Point and Cape Iyo, off both which
are rocks. North of Cape Iyo is an archipelago 30 miles in extent.
Thence to the eastward two routes are indicated on the chart, namely, a
northern route through the archipelago, by a channel circuitous, narrow, and
intricate, amongst high islands and with strong currents, and by which
MISIMA NADA AND BINGO NADA
607
Japanese pilots have invariably conducted foreign vessels; and a southerly
one, much to be preferred, as shorter (by 6 miles), safer, and more open,
passing South of and avoiding the archipelago. A third passage, also
through the islands, but only indicated on the chart by soundings, is the
shortest, but not good.
The Ai sima are two remarkable rocks, the eastern of which is white, the
western brown; they have been passed at 1½ mile. The Black and White
rock is much larger than Ai sima.
Light. There is a light always at night on the South point of Okamura,
3 miles N.W. of Cape Iyo, and 1 mile West of the entrance of the
northern passage. Like all Japanese lights, it is a wood fire burnt in an
open shed.
Northern Route.-Mr. Blackney, R.N., of H.M.S. Acteon, 1861, gives
the following: Pass between Kotaka and Kio sima, steering a northerly
course along the East shore of Osakiuye Island, and close to the westward of
the small island of Matsu; round Okuno to the northward, and keep along
the mainland as far as Mihara. From Mihara pass South of Yoko into the
Bingo nada, across which steer E. by S.
Approaching the western entrance to this route, it is not easy for a
stranger to immediately discover its narrow outlet, the islands rising from
2,000 to 4,000 feet. Keeping the southern shore of the islands aboard, the
town of Mitarai is passed, and the small island of Kotaka (200 feet) may be
recognised by the remarkably white rocks which fringe its base. Koi sima
is 400 feet high, and well cultivated. Steer N.N.E., keeping the East shore
of Osakiuye aboard, passing marble quarries, but give its S.E. point a berth.
Pass to the West of a conical rock off Osaki and several small islands
further to the North. On leaving Tatanomi Bay it is necessary to steer 1
mile S.E. to clear some shoal water on its eastern side. A vessel will then
be in the fairway.
Rounding the point of the main, keep its shores somewhat on a N. by E.
course, altering it to East off a bay, on which is situate the large town of
Mihara, which has a light on the mole, and passing between its East point
of entrance and the beacon on a small bushy island to the South. This
beacon (as are the other beacons in this channel) is built on the outer rock
of a reef, so that it always appears above water. After passing this beacon,
the channel between In sima and Muko sima will open out, with Hyakfu-
kung, a remarkable conical islet, 150 feet high, and 8 miles distant, appear-
ing midway between two barren looking points on either hand. Through
this channel, about 4 cables broad, now proceed S.E. E. for 6 miles, pass-
ing close to the beacon off the South point of Muko sima. There is another
beacon off the S.W. point of Yoko.
The Wusima Channel passes between the islands of Daizo, Hakubo, and
608
SETO UCHI OR INLAND SEA.
O-sima, having Wu-sima between them. The plan on the chart is the best
guide. The tides at springs are so rapid that it is then impossible.
Southern Route.-The superiority of this route is evident, the tortuous
passages between islands being only 4 miles in length, whilst that to the
northward runs 24 miles amongst islands, and that of Wu-sima 8 miles
through them.
Cape Iyo, the N.W. extreme of Sikok, is a long promontory of undu-
lating hills; a grassy island half a mile N.W. of it, and with a low reef
which never uncovers, 2 cables outside the island. Kadzitori Point is a bluff
200 feet high, with rocks half a cable off. Ko sima has a double peak 400
feet high on its North end. It is well cultivated. Rocks stretch off its
South point towards the shore. Ma sima is 250 feet high; there are rocks
awash close off its N.W. end.
O-sima has many hills 600 to 700 feet in height. Off its South point are
two islets; the outer one is 20 feet high, with a tree on it. Hiki sima group
is 100 feet high; the eastern island has two remarkable trees on its summit.
Kudsi is a double flat-topped island, 200 feet high. Moto Island is a double
hill 300 feet high, with a gradual slope to the East. Takaikama, Oki, and
Yeno, form a conspicuous group. Takaikama has a single peak 800 ft. high;
Oki, three peaks of 540 feet elevation, with a small islet South of it; Yeno,
one peak, 200 feet high.
Directions. After rounding Cape Iyo, pass East of Ko sima and West of
Ma sima, on a southerly course; then keep away to the eastward, and giving
the islets off O-sima a good berth, haul up W.N.W., passing West 1 mile of
Kudsi. This course leads through the Bingo Nada. Until better examined,
when passing between islands in these seas, especially those bearing East
and West of each other, great attention should be paid to the lead.
Tomo is a town on the North shore of the Bingo nada, on the mainland.
It is famous for its saké distilleries. There is a pier harbour here for small
vessels, and anchorage in 5 fathoms.
A line of islands trends south-eastward across the eastern side of the
Bingo nada from Tomo towards a projecting peninsula, Akenose Misaki, on
the East side, 12 miles distant. The best route through them is to the
southward, between the following islands. To the northward are: Udsi,
which has two peaks 380 feet high. Mutsu sima is 900 feet high, and culti-
vated to its summit. Nezumi sima, a small low, brown island, having shoal
water extending a considerable distance to the East, and a cluster of rocks
near it. Takami is 830 feet high and very bold, and may be passed on the
South at a quarter of a mile. The Conqueror Bank, so named from H.M.S.
Conqueror, one of the allied fleet, grounding on it in 1864, extends from
near Takami Island to within a quarter of a mile of Nezu sima. It has some
knolls of 9 and 12 feet on it.
The route passes to the northward of Awa sima, the North point of which
HARIMA NADA.
609
is steep-tq, with 19 fathoms 2 cables off. Off its East point is a detached
reef. Sizi sima is a beautifully cultivated island; a long shoal lies parallel
to, and 7 cables from its North shore.
There is good anchorage in the northern bay of Awa sima; also South of
Awa sima and Sizi sima in 6 to 8 fathoms; and anywhere to the N.E. of the
latter for 7 or 8 miles, as far as Sai sima, in 5 to 7 fathoms, gravel. About
50 tons of coal of inferior quality was found stacked East of the village on
the South side of Awa sima. H.M.SS. Dove and Leven coaled here.
The St. Vincent Channel, safe, easy, and deep, passes to the northward of
the Conqueror Bank between Nezumi sima and Sayanagi to the North of it.
It cannot be well described without the chart.
Sai sima and Sei sima are low, with shallow water between them. Take
care not to mistake them for the two dark tree islets off the town of Mura-
kame on the South shore. North of Sai sima is a cluster of three small
rocky islets, which may be passed on either side.
Odutsi is a fine cone, 900 feet high, and a very prominent object from all
directions.
Oki sima, O sima, and Inaki sima, are high; at half a mile North of the
latter is a dangerous reef. There are shoals between these islands. Great
caution should be used in approaching the fine bay of Takamatsu from any
direction.
HARIMA NADA, the next division of the Inland Sea, lies off the N.E.
end of Sikok, and is about 25 miles in diameter. It is separated from the
easternmost area by Awadsi Island, and has some dangerous shoals in its
northern part.
Sozu Sima, or Shode sima, a large island in the eastern part of the Ha-
rima nada, is 10 miles long, 8 miles broad, and 2,560 ft. high. On its South
side the high promontory of Yosino, terminating in a bluff 980 feet high,
stretches to the southward, forming a conspicuous land-mark throughout
the Harima nada, and the narrow sea to the westward. Anchorage pro-
bably may be found to the N.W. of Yosino bluff. Sakate Bay, to the N.E.
of Yosino, affords anchorage in 16 fathoms, but it is not by any means a
good anchorage, the water being so deep. N.W. of Otsu no saki, the S.E.
point of Sozu, in the bay between it and Fukube Island, there is deep-water
anchorage in 13 to 20 fathoms.
Hanamura Bay, on the Sikok shore, S.S.W. 5 miles from Yosino bluff, is
not a good anchorage in the neighbourhood, and a fine harbour. A large
town stands at its head. On the promontory which forms its West side,
the high rugged Peak of Dotensan, a sacred mountain, is a very conspicuous
object.
Great Shoal.-An extensive triangular spit of covered rocks, having the
East side of Sozu sima for a base, is said to stretch in an E.N.E. direction for
25 miles, to within 10 miles of Akasi Strait, and 5 miles of the North end
North Pacific.
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610
SETO UCHI OR INLAND SEA.
of Awadji. A good mark for passing between the banks is the Hiogo
range just open of Yesaki, the N.W. point of Awasdi.
Skenesi Bank is 7 miles S. W. by W. from the North point of Awadji sima.
Not less than 6 fathoms has been found on it, but probably there is less
water.
But there is a 1-fathom patch, called Shika-no-se, at 8 miles W. † N. from
the North point of Awadji.
AWADJI or Awadsi, the largest island of the Inland Sea, is 30 miles in
length North and South, and 14 miles across at its southern or broadest
part, which is between the projecting promontories of Nipon and Sikok, at
the eastern entrance of this sea from the Kii Channel, which it divides into
two passages, the strait of Isumi on the East, and the Naruto Passage on the
West. Awadji is mountainous, but the hills taper away towards Ye saki, its
North cape, which is low and sandy, with batteries on it.
Akasi Strait, between the North point of Awadji and the coast of Nipon,
is only 2 miles wide, and commanded by forts on both shores. It is free of
danger, and its shores are steep-to, but a 20-feet shoal is said to exist about
a mile South of Mieco. The tides here are very rapid.
Lights.-There is a light on the North point of Awadji; and another 21
miles N.N.W. of it, on the Nipon shore, West of Akasi.
The Hasedasinose Bank extends 2 miles off its western shore, 3 miles North
of Morotsu, with 3 fathoms on its edge.
Sailing from the Bingo nada into the Harima nada, keep strictly to the
track marked on the chart, which is a mid-channel course, as the sea is
greatly narrowed here, with many shoals out of the fairway. After round-
ing the high bluff of Yosino, steer E. N. until Awadji sima is closed
within 5 miles, when keep along its shore for Ye saki, its North point, into
Akasi Strait, from which an E. N. course leads to Hiogo and Oösaka.
Anchorage is found in Yei Bay, 12 miles S. W. of Ye saki, in 9 fathoms,
one-third of a mile from the shore, and all along towards that point in 7 to
12 fathoms.
Caution. Should the tide be found setting to the northward after leaving
Yosino Bluff, keep its outer summit open of Otzuno saki, the S.E. point of
Sozu sima, till well across towards Awadji, to prevent being set on the
Great Shoal. To avoid the Skenesi Bank, do not approach Ye saki on a
N.E. by E. E. bearing.
H.M.S. Ringdove took a northerly passage through the Harima nada pass-
ing West of Tomo sima, from the North side of which a spit extends 2 miles,
which she rounded in 8 fathoms; she passed North of Sozu sima and South
of Matsu sima, an E. N. course leading into Akasi Strait.
A sand-spit also extends from the North shore of the Isumi nada, 8
miles West of Hiogo, where a large fishing village is situated. The sound-
}
THE ISUMI NADA-OOSAKA.
611
ings gradually decrease on approaching it, and a slight attention to the lead,
or keeping 1 mile off shore, is sufficient to lead clear.
The ISUMI NADA, or Gulf of Oosaka, at the N.E. extreme of the In-
land Sea, and 35 miles in extent N.E. and S. W., is bounded to the South
by a promontory of Nipon, and to the West by the large mountainous island
of Awadji. Its shores are in general high and thickly wooded; in some
places, however, they are low and sandy. It is singular in having neither
an island nor a danger. On the East shore of Awadji the water is deep,
with no convenient anchorages except in small bays close in. The coast of
Nipon, on the contrary, affords good anchorage along its whole extent, reefs
only extending off it 1 or 2 cables.
OOSAKA. The city of Oösaka, the principal commercial place in Japan,
was opened as a treaty port to foreign commerce Jan. 1st, 1868. It is said
to contain a million of inhabitants, and, unlike most Japanese cities, its
houses are of two stories. It stands on the left bank of the main stream of
the Yodo-ngawa, 3 miles from the sea. This river, which takes its rise in
the great inland lake, Biwa, after flowing on a south-westerly course for 30
miles, enters the Gulf of Oösaka by several channels. At the lower or
north-western corner of the city the river divides into two branches-the
Ajikawa, as the Yodo is here called, continuing directly towards the sea;
the other branch, the Kishungawa, takes a southerly course, and discharges
itself 3 miles lower down the gulf. These two branches are navigable by
junks of moderate size, but the heavier classes are compelled to discharge
their cargoes in the roadstead.
Oösaka is intersected by several canals, which are mostly very shallow, and
only navigable by the flat boats of the country. The castle of the Tycoon is
on the N.E. of the city, overlooking the river.
The foreign concession named Ebisu jima or Kawa nguchi occupies the
angle formed by the Aji and Kishu branches; its position is indicated by
lofty trees. The right of building is confined to this site, but the right of
residence extends over the contiguous suburb westward. It is 22 miles
above Temposan, the fort at the river's mouth, and 2 miles below the castle.
The River Aji is shallow, but may be navigated by ships' boats as far as
the castle; it has a bar, which at unusually low tides would be nearly dry;
at exceptionally high tides, 7 feet might be carried over. The channel is
marked by large piles, the two outer having triangular vanes to distinguish
them; the shallowest part is just outside these outer beacons, and the best
passage over is at one-third the distance from the North beacon, so as to
avoid a shoal extending south-west from the other. When inside, the deep
water is close along the groynes on the South side, which always show.
There is generally 3 feet more water in the lower part of the river than on
the bar.
Directions from within the Bar.-Keep the S. bank of the river, which will
2 R 2
612
SETO UCHI OR INLAND SEA.
lead up in a nearly direct course to the Tycoon's Castle (above the first bridge
the river is seen to turn off sharp to the South; this is the Kishu branch),
keep close past the Concession, but in the same direction, for above this the
river has two distinct channels, separated by narrow islands and shallow
sand sanks, which can seldom be crossed.
Boats may be obtained just above the fort, or at Ichiokashinden on the
left bank, 24 miles higher up.
Light. The large fort of Temposan, which stands on the South part,
commands the entrance of the river; it is a high turfed earthwork, scarped
with masonry, and is a conspicuous landmark, the shores being very low.
On the parapet of its western salient is a small wooden lighthouse, from
which a fixed light is exhibited. There are no towers.
Oosaka Roads.-The depths in the roadstead are extremely regular,
diminishing gradually over a soft mud bottom; the holding-ground is so
good that it is considered a vessel could ride out any gale in safety. The
shores are everywhere of clean sand (as are the river bars), but it constitutes
a fringe only, mud being found at a cable from the low-water line. The
best anchorage is West of the Temposan or Oosaka lighthouse.
Kishu Ngawa River. Two miles S.S.E. of Oosaka bar is the bar of the
Kishu, at the North point of entrance of which river a small star fort is
being constructed at low-water mark a mile from the shore. This bar has
not been closely examined, but it is probably a little deeper than that of the
Aji, as a larger class of junks ascend this branch to Oosaka.
Sakai.—Light.-S. by E. 4 miles from Temposan is the mouth of the
Sakai River, which enters the sea between two short moles extending from
two green batteries; it has no bar, and has 2 feet at entrance. A light is
exhibited from a wooden turret on the North fort.
HIOGO and Kobe.-This is a treaty port, and is 13 miles West of Oosaka.
The foreign settlement has been chosen at the head of the northern bay of
Kobe (or Corvi). This bay is somewhat smaller and shoaler than Hiogo
Bay, but the shores of it are steep, and if less sheltered in S.W. winds, it is
less exposed to easterly winds.
The Japanese government have two docks at Kobe Point, where vessels of
500 tons, if lightened to 7 or 8 feet draught, can be taken in for repair.
Large timber, chiefly cedar (Su-ngi), is abundant, and suitable for ship-
building purposes, spars, &c. The fresh water obtained at Kobe is good;
that of Hiogo is indifferent.
Directions.-If entering Hiogo at night from the West, a course may be
steered for Hiogo Point, which, though extremely difficult to see if it be all
dark, is nevertheless bold; otherwise, pass it at a moderate distance, and
when the shipping lights are seen bearing N.N.W. or N.W. steer for them,
or if bound to Kobe steer North; in thick or rainy weather, having run the
distance with care, haul in for the shore, as convenient, and anchor in 8 to 5
ISUMI STRAIT.
613
fathoms. It must be borne in mind that the tide runs along the shore nearly
2 knots at springs, and its direction has not been ascertained; near Akasi
Strait it is even stronger.
The coast, as far as Tree Point, 7 miles eastward of Kobe, is safe of ap-
proach, the shore being steep into 4 fathoms, except the bay directly East of
Kobe, where there is a sand-bank of less than 2 fathoms extending half a
mile off shore.
Two rocks, which show at low water, lie in the fairway between Akasi
Strait and Hiogo, 3 miles E. & N. of the North point of Awadji; there are
also two sunken rocks on the same bearing, at 1½ mile from the same point,
over which are depths of 20 or 26 feet; they have been accurately laid down
on a late survey (1867) by Japanese Naval Officers. The North point of
Awadji, kept West until the end hill of the Hiogo range (bordering on the
sea) bears N.E., leads well clear of both.
Tides. It is high water, full and change, at Hiogo, at 7h 15m. Springs
rise 5 feet 8 inches; neaps, 4 feet 3 inches; neap range, 2 feet 6 inches.
The range of any day seldom exceeds 5 feet at springs, or 1 foot 6 inches at
neaps.
At Oosaka Concession the establishment is 8h 17m. Spring rise 30 inches,
neaps 6. The flood stream does not reach the Concession.
ISUMI STRAIT, between the S.E. point of A wadji and Nipon, is divided
into three channels by the islands Tomang-ai and Diyi. Tomang-ai, the
eastern island, is wooded, with the exception of its West hill, cleared appa-
rently for military purposes. There is a fort close to the North of the
south-western point across a small ravine, and facing the West; Diyi is
wooded, but lower. The West or main channel is 2 miles wide, but con-
tracted by a sand-bank, which extends half a mile off the large fort of Yura,
and by reefs stretching 3 cables off the S.W. part of Tomang-ai. The centre
passage is only 1 cable wide, and full of rocks. The eastern channel, called
Dzinozetti, is a quarter of a mile wide, and said to be clear and safe, between
the reefs, which extend 1 cable off both shore and island.
Yura is a town in a curiously sheltered harbour on the S.E. side of
Awadji, on the West side of Isumi Strait. A low island, 1 mile in length,
of sand and shingle, and covered with scrub, with a bluff hill on its North
point, and a large granite fort on its South, lies like a breakwater fronting a
bay, and forms the harbour, which has narrow entrances North and South.
A little North of the fort, where the island is stony, it covers at high water,
but a boat can scarcely pass over it. A vessel drawing 16 feet could enter
by the North channel at high-water springs, and lie secure in smooth water
for repair.
Anchorage may also be obtained in 2 to 5 fathoms outside the island on
the sand-bank off it, with the outer extreme of the bluff N.W., or of the
614
SETO UCHI OR INLAND SEA.
fort S.S.W., but it is very steep on the edge, and the holding-ground is pro-
bably not good.
Kata is a town on the eastern side of Isumi Strait, on the South side of
a bay North of Takura saki, and where there is anchorage in 5 to 8 fathoms.
There is a fine landing-pier here 200 yards in length for the use of the
Daimio, who resides at Wakayama, and to whom Kata belongs. Off Takura
saki, and in Kata Bay as far as Diyi Island, reefs, covering at high water,
extend about 3 cables off the shore.
It is high water, full and change, at Yura and at Kata, at 6h 5m; springs
rise 6 feet; neaps 4 feet. At Akasi, on the North side of Akasi Strait, it
is high water at 6¹ 36m.
The KII CHANNEL, between Sikok and Nipon, is 80 miles across at its
entrance from the Pacific, but the width decreases to 15 miles at 30 or 40
miles within, which width it preserves for 20 miles further, or up to Awadji.
The fairway from the Kii Channel into the Seto Uchi is by Isumi Strait,
but there is a more direct route, by taking which (if not bound to Oosaka
or Hiogo) a saving of 35 miles is effected, viz., the Naruto Passage, West of
Awadji.
NARUTO PASSAGE.-The Naruto (literally, gate of the sea, which
makes a great roaring) was examined by Commander Charles Bullock, in
H.M.S. Dove in 1861. It had previously been considered to be a whirlpool,
and it is not without cause that this dangerous character has been attributed
to it, for junks have foundered in its turbulent waves, or been dashed to
pieces on its rocks by the impetuosity of the current, whilst the families of
those thus lost are excluded from the benefit of the relief afforded by go-
vernment to the sufferers in ordinary cases of shipwreck. This channel
lying between Koura saki, the projecting S.W. promontory of Awadji, and
that of Oonge sima, called Mang osaki, is only 6 cables wide from point to
point; and is further narrowed to rather less than 2 cables by an extensive
reef of rocks off Koura saki, and some reefs and islands off Mang osaki.
Mang osaki and Koura saki are low bluffs; Tobi sima and Naka sima rocky
islets covered with trees; Nakase is a low rock, which it is said never covers,
and off which and Naka sima stretch extensive reefs bounding the passage,
marked during the strength of the tide by seething breakers, which break in
several fathoms. N. by W. and S. by E. are the courses recommended when
steering through with the tide, keeping midway between the breakers, or
between Nakase and Naka sima. The current was observed to set out S.S.E.
E., a little before change of stream.
Through this narrow passage the tide runs, or rather falls, with a velocity
much exceeding 8 knots at springs, changing regularly and suddenly every
six hours, there being no slack water. The junks choose the early and latter
parts of the tide, when fair, to pass, but never attempt it when the wind is
so strong as to require reduced canvas, for then the sea is said to be so
SIO SAKI-WADASIMA HARBOUR.
615
great that vessels are unmanageable; however, there would be no difficulty
to steam-vessels taking the passage in fair weather, at any time with a
fovourable tide, or within an hour of the change of stream before the
contrary tide has made strong, as the passage is distinetly marked; but in
bad weather it would probably break right across, and the passage not be
discernible. The roar of the breakers can be heard several miles on a calm
night.
Tides. It is high water, full and change, at Fukura, on the eastern side
of the passage, at 6h 17m; springs rise 7 feet, neaps (probably) 4 feet. The
north-western stream makes at 24 hours before high water at Fukura,
changing every six hours nearly. North of the Naruto passage the tides are
anomalous.
H.M. surveying vessel Dove passed through the Naruto on the second day
after the moon's change, and at half tide, which is the period of the maxi-
mum velocity of the stream. Several junks passed through the same day
on both tides, either with a light fair wind, or drifted through in a calm.
If wishing to wait for slack water or change of stream, anchorage may be
found on the Awadji shore, at Ananga ura, on the North side of the Naruto,
and at Fukura on the South, in 4 to 8 fathoms. There is also excellent an-
chorage in Minotoye Bay, 5 miles to the westward.
Sio Saki, the S.W. point of Awadji, has two or three small hills on it
about 200 feet high. Reefs extend 2 cables off it, also a 3-fathoms bank 7
cables to the westward.
Noma Sima is formed of some very flat-topped hills from 100 to 200 feet
high, bordered with low cliffs. It has reefs a cable off its South point;
there is a bay and village on its West side.
Isima lies in the Kii Channel, at its narrowest part, at 25 miles S.S.E.
from the Naruto Passage. It is small, and its southern peak is visible 30
miles. It may be approached to within a mile, except on the West. The
channel to the West of it is 3 miles broad. Extending right across this
channel there appears several detached groups of rocks, some of which are
above water; but there are channels through them.
Wadasima Harbour.-On the West coast of the Kii Channel, 14 miles
N.W. from Isima, lat. 34° 0′ N, is a bay affording excellent anchorage,
especially for smaller classes of vessels, in 5 fathoms, sand, completely land-
locked; and sufficient shelter for vessels of heavy draught from all dangerous
winds in 7 fathoms. Its only known danger is the Johnston Rock, which un-
covers 2 feet at low water, and lies N. by E. E. 12 mile from Wadasima,
the point of entrance.
The channel between Isima and Kamoda-saki (the eastern point of Sikok)
is 3 miles broad; in it are several detached groups of rocks, reported by Mr.
J. Cheetham, of the schooner Kaffir Chief, which do not cover at high water,
and amongst them (according to the description of the fishermen who acted
616
SOUTH COAST OF NIPON.
as pilots) are sunken rocks, over which not more than 24 feet can be carried
in any of the channels, excepting the westernmost, which the fishermen stated
to be clear of danger and navigable.
TAKURA SAKI, the eastern point of entrance of Isumi Strait, is a wooded
headland, with a small summer-house on its summit, the extremity of a
mountainous promontory. It is skirted with reefs extending 2 or 3 cables
West and South of it. The coast South of it is low and wooded for 5 miles,
as far as Zoga saki, a rocky point with four small islands off it which are
steep-to.
The eastern coast of the Kii Channel trends irregularly to southward.
was surveyed by Commander Charles Bullock, R.N., in the Dove.
It
Hachken Gawa is a small river running through a plain 5 miles S.E. of
Kata. Waka Yama, a small isolated wooded hill, is on its left bank 1 mile
from the entrance; on its summit stands the residence of the Prince of
Ksiou, conspicuous from the sea. There are only 3 feet water on the bar.
There are forts on both sides of the river.
South of Zoga saki is a bay 4 miles deep, and 3 across its entrance, in
which anchorage may be found in 4 to 10 fathoms.
Osaki Bay is 1 mile deep, and open to the W.N.W. The village of
Osaki stands on the shore of a narrow inlet on its North side, where small
vessels can find good shelter in 5 to 2 fathoms, which they can also obtain
in Smotz ura, the innermost bay on the South side of the inlet.
The only
danger is a rocky patch of one fathom 2 cables S.E. of the North entrance
head.
Okino sima, W. by S. S. 2 miles from the entrance of Osaki, has a round
hill 275 feet high. Djino sima, East of it a mile, is 400 feet high, has
high cliffs towards the sea, and is wooded; it may not be passed inside.
A rock awash lies about 2 cables South of it.
Miya Saki, 220 feet high, and 2 miles South of Okino sima, is an abrupt
wooded peninsula at the extremity of a range of small hills. On its North
side the Arita, a small stream, disembogues. It is navigable by small junks
for a short distance up. Miya saki may be passed at 3 cables.
Takahara Bay is 5 miles deep and 6 miles across, between Miya saki and
Sirasai saki, its North and South points of entrance. At its head is the bay
of Hirowatali, with anchorage in 7 to 8 fathoms, well sheltered from all
winds except W. by S. A pier at the South end of the sandy beach at its
head, and off a small town, protects small craft in a shallow inner harbour.
Two islands, Kura sima and Taka sima, lie off the southern shore of
Tskahara Bay. Both these islands may be passed at 2 cables, except the
South point of Taka sima, off which at nearly that distance there is a rock
awash.
The Karamo group of small islands with reefs about their North sides, lie
N.N.E. of Taka sima and West of Hirowatali Bay, with a cluster of rocks
HINO MISAKI.
617
E.N.E. of them half way to the shore, the ground about which has not been
examined.
Unless desiring anchorage or working to windward against tide, Tskahara
Bay should not be entered within a line joining its points, as there are two
dangerous rocks lying in the centre and northern parts of the bay. Golden
Rock, the other, so named from the large amount of property lost there, is
a very small patch, nearly awash at low water, and so steep that the lead
gives but little warning. It lies S. by E. E. of Miya saki. The Sung-ami,
three-quarters of a mile North of the West point of Karamo, is a sunken.
rock with 6 feet over it, and equally steep-to. It is also 1 mile N. by E. of
Taka sima, and S.E. E. 23 miles from the point S.E. of Miya saki.
3
Sirasai Saki or White Rock Point, derives its name from the large masses
of quartz in its cliffs, and which, with the white pinnacle rock 200 feet high,
4 cables E.S.E. of it, show very distinctly from the South. The point is
not high. A large round rock lies one cable N.W. of the point. Turtle were
seen here.
Fisherman Reef, a small narrow rock 4 feet above high water and
steep-to on the outside, lies 4 cables West of Sirasai saki. Oobiki Ura is a
bay between Sirasai saki and Yura no uchi, where a vessel might anchor for
the night with the wind off shore.
Yura No Uchi is a harbour 4 to 7 cables in breadth, and 2 miles deep,
and being sheltered by the sharp peaked island Ali Sima and the extensive.
reefs off the South point of entrance, always above water, is only open to
two points, viz. W. by S. and S.W. by W. Winds from these directions
cause some swell inside in a gale, but it is nevertheless a secure anchorage.
The smooth round hill, Kansane yama, on its North side, 860 feet high
and surmounted by a clump of trees, is conspicuous and well marks its
position.
HINO MISAKI, being at the turn of the coast, is the most prominent cape
in the Kii channel. Its terminal hill, Hino yama, is smooth sloped, 675 feet
high, and the islet off it may be passed at 2 cables. It is steep-to, but the
tide sweeping out of the bay South of it, causes an appearance of broken
water, especially with a North wind. From thence the coast runs south-
eastward for 19 miles to Tanabe.
At 2 miles E.N.E. of Hino yama, on the East of the range extending
from it, is a high flat-topped saddle of nearly 1,000 feet elevation, and very
conspicuous from the S.E. Along this beach anchorage may be obtained in
4 to 9 fathoms at about half a mile off shore.
The only danger in approaching the anchorage, near the mouth of the
small river Hida ka kawa, is a large flat reef, named Nosima, the inner part
of which is 15 feet above high water. It lies two-thirds of a mile off the
coast, a mile South of the river's mouth.
Ilibe Saki.—The round smooth hill, Kirime yama, rises over this prominent
point. The coast to the S.E. of the range has several outlying reefs, the
618
SOUTH COAST OF NIPON.
largest of which extends 4 cables off Arari Point in detached parts, and its
extremity is S.W. by W. † W. 34 miles from Ilibè-saki. Eastward of Arari
Point is a bay affording good anchorage in 5 to 8 fathoms.
North of Arari Point is a round hill, on the summit of which are three
spike-shaped monuments; and 3 and 4 miles inland, North and N.E. of this,
are two large hill clumps which are very conspicuous from the offing.
TANABE BAY is formed in a bight of the coast, 22 miles S.W. of Hino
misaki, its outer parts exposed only to West and N.W. When approaching
from the south-eastward, Itsive misaki, the most projecting point of the coast,
will first be made, and being very similar to Cape Tanabè, the bay between
them, in thick weather, may be mistaken for that of Tanabè. Itsive misaki
is a sloping point with a low terminating cliff, but the hills over it are much
higher than those of Cape Tanabè, and rise to a sharp peak, the outer of a
continuous high range. The summit of Cape Tanabè, which has a single
conspicuous tree on it, is only 539 feet high, and falls abruptly inland.
Isaki Point, North of the cape, is very dangerous, a reef with two islets
on it extending North half a mile from the point, and the Isaki reef of flat
rocks above water, lying that distance West of it. There are sunken
reefs and shoal water between the latter reef and the point, and off both
reefs the shoal water extends 2 or 3 cables beyond the outer visible
dangers.
In the north-western part of entrance of Tanabe Bay are the Saito and
North Bay reefs, 4 cables apart with a deep water channel between them.
These reefs are low and quite flat. At 2 cables distance S.E. and North of
Saito, the southern of them, are sunken rocks, and off North Bay Reef is a
small rock like a boulder. In bad weather with the wind in, all the known
dangers would break.
The best anchorage is in the south-eastern arm of the bay, South of An-
chorage Island. This island may be recognized by the dark trees dotted
over it, and a tree islet West of it from which a long uncovered reef
extends. The end of this reef may be passed at a cable; then steer to pass
the same distance of the north-east point of Anchorage Island, between it
and the sunken rocks of Passage Reef in 6 to 10 fathoms, irregular bot-
tom. Having passed along the East side of the island, stand in S.W.
S., anchoring in 10 to 8 fathoms, in a secure and thoroughly sheltered
position.
The north-eastern part of Tanabe Bay has many shoals. In the centre of
the bay is the Binzli, an extensive reef with several rocks on it, dry and
awash at low water. On the North shore a small river discharges itself,
running close under the white loop-holed wall surrounding a residence of the
Daimio, the imperial Prince of Ksiou. The village of Tanabe stands on the
shore of the sandy bay to the westward of the river, and to the North is a
mountain range, the highest part of which rises to the height of 2,650
SIWO MISAKI-00 SIMA HARBOUR.
619
feet, the ridge curving round to the range which terminates in Itsiye
misaki.
Tanabe has proved at times a convenient anchorage, the usual position for
anchoring being South of the Daimio's residence, but better shelter in
westerly winds would be found N.E. of the Binzli Reef. Two sunken rocks
have lately been discovered in the fairway to the above anchorage; one of
22 feet water is S. E. 4 cables from the islet off Maru-yama point; the
other with 15 feet is S.S.E. 3 E. at the same distance. To anchor, stand in
for the green earthwork East of the white wall of the Daimio's residence,
bearing E.N.E. till Ebisima shuts in with the islet off Maru-yama Point;
then keep East and anchor in 6 to 4 fathoms. The low rock of Binzli always
shows.
SIWO MISAKI.—The shore from Itsive misaki to Siwo misaki, a distance
of 21 miles E.S.E., is very bold and under a high mountainous coast termi-
nating in a promontory of table land, which is the extreme South point of
Nipon. There is a great race off Siwo misaki, immediately North of which
the tides are felt, though the Japan stream washes the South shore of this
and of Oö sima. After a south-easterly gale the sea comes in round this
point in immense rollers, such as are rarely seen on any coast.
Directions.-Passing through the Kii channel it is recommended to steer
always for Hino misaki. The course from Isumi Strait is South 25 miles,
and from Naruto S.E. by S. 30 miles, which latter course, continued for 25
miles further, passes Itsive misaki at about 3 miles, from which an E.S.E.
course for 25 miles leads on to Siwo misaki.
00 SIMA HARBOUR is formed between Oö sima and the East side of the
extreme South point of Nipon (the East point of entrance to the Kii channel)
which is a curious clump of land, 300 feet high, named Siwo misaki, con-
nected to the mainland by a low isthmus. Its vicinity was surveyed by Com-
mander J. Ward, R.N., H.M.S. Actæon, in 1861. The harbour has two an-
chorages; one in the bay on the S.W. side of Oö sima, completely sheltered,
but the water rather deep; the other in 4 to 6 fathoms, muddy bottom and
good holding ground, off the village of Hasikiwi on the mainland in the
northern part of the harbour.
Hasikiwi Anchorage is well sheltered except to the N.E., where it is open
from a small arc; it has also some protection from the remarkable chain of
rocks, from 20 to 75 feet high, extending in a southerly direction half a mile
from the shore eastward of the village, but being detached with deep water
between, they do not form a perfect breakwater. Pisayama Rock, the inner-
most, is in lat. 33° 29′ 8″ N., long. 135° 48′ 55″ E. The best position is with
Itsino sima, the outer rock of the above chain, bearing E.N.E. distant 1½ ca-
ble, and Mioga sima, South, or on with Isumo saki, the West entry point.
This very eligible harbour is largely resorted to by windbound junks, and
it offers every facility for repairs and replenishing supplies. There are three
620
SOUTH COAST OF NIPON.
villages, two on the mainland and one on the island. Water is easily obtained
from the latter village, it being led down in bamboo pipes to the rocks,
which have deep water alongside them. The large village of Kusimoto on
the isthmus, is well supplied with all the essentials usually required by the
coasting trade.
The cargoes of the windbound junks consisted of rice, sugar, tobacco,
charcoal, salt, sake (spirits), and dried fish. Charcoal of an excellent quality
for steaming purposes was obtained from them. The villagers supplied fish
and poultry; some deer were brought off, also a few bullocks, and a small
quantity of vegetables.
Approaching Oö sima harbour from the westward, a heavy tide race is often
met with off Siwo misaki, which is skirted by uneven masses of rock, most
of it showing at low water, with rocks awash 3 or 4 miles from shore.
Bottle Rock, lying South a quarter of a mile from the point, has some foul
ground 1½ cable outside it; a rocky spit extends about a quarter of a mile
off Wedge Head, and there is broken ground at nearly the same distance
off Isumo saki.
To clear these dangers, the right extreme of Oö sima, the most southern
point seen, must not be brought eastward of E.N.E. until Mioga sima comes
well open of Isumo saki N.N.W., when it may be steered for, taking care
not to bring it northward of that bearing until within half a mile of it,
or until the East extreme of Isumo saki bears S.S.W. W., when steer
N.W. N., passing mid-channel between the land and Mioga sima, which
has a small ledge running off its South side; after passing Mioga steer for
the anchorage of Hasikiwi.
If compelled to work in, the Oö sima shore is the clearest, but take care
to avoid a dangerous rock lying nearly 2 cables westward of the N. W. part of
Tsuya sima, an island 120 feet high off the S.W. point of Oö sima. The
S.W. bay of Oö sima is clear of danger.
Koza-Gawa is a small but opulent town situated on the East side of the
entrance of a river, 24 miles N.N.E. of the North point of Oö sima. The
river has a shifting bar, but a channel is always available for coasting junks.
Generally speaking breakers show the position of the shoals, and what to
avoid when entering. At high water, which is about 7h full and change, 10
feet may be looked for on the bar, probably more, but strangers should adopt
the precaution of sending a boat ahead to sound.
At the North end of the town is an extensive timber yard, in which are
spars of considerable dimensions. Koza-gawa is also the seat of an important
whale fishery.
URA-KAMI HARBOUR is an inlet running 1½ miles in a W.S.W. di-
rection into the land at 8 miles N.E. of Oo sima harbour, and, although
small, affords excellent shelter in 4 to 5 fathoms, over stiff muddy bottom.
For steamers it offers an admirable haven, but being only a quarter of a mile
CAPE XIMA.
621
wide, sailing vessels might experience a difficulty in getting in or out, par-
ticularly entering, as from the direction of the valley at the head of the har-
bour the wind, which may be free outside, is frequently found inside to be
blowing straight out.
In entering take care to avoid a spit of rocks projecting upwards of half a
mile in a N.E. direction from the South point of entrance. One of them,
named Hive, is 36 feet high, and some are covered, but show sufficiently to
render them easily to be avoided.
The COAST for 130 miles N.E. of Ura-kami has only been partially ex-
amined, but is delineated from the Japanese manuscript.
Goza Inlet, in lat. 34° 17′ N., long. 136° 46′ E., affords shelter from all but
West winds, but has very uneven rocky bottom, and ledges off all the points.
It is therefore recommended not to anchor farther up than abreast the first
opening on the North, in 5 to 7 fathoms.
CAPE XIMA or Sima is directly S.E. of Goza Inlet. From time to time
rocks have been reported to lie off it, and an examination has proved them to
be of the most dangerous character. Two low and small islands, called Osi-
ma, with clumps of large trees on them, stand a mile or two off the coast be-
tween Cape Sima and Goza entrance, from which long reefs were seen ex-
tending in all directions, and detached sunken rocks to crop up in various
places. These generally break, owing to the constant swell caused by the
strong tides off the cape. The outer rock which breaks is S.W. ≥ W. of
Nami-kiri-saki, S.S.E. E. 5 miles from the wooded entrance head of
Goza, and S. by W. 2 miles from the outer Osima. Numerous tide rips
occur outside the reefs.
Matoya Harbour lies 5 miles North of Cape Sima, and is open only to the
East; half a mile within its entrance, anchorage may be obtained in 7 fa-
thoms, but beyond this the harbour has not been examined. A cluster of
rocks lies in the entrance, North of the South head, on which is a Japanese
lighthouse.
To the northward of this are the extensive inlets called Owari Bay and
Mikawa Bay, of which we have no accounts but the information given by the
Japanese survey. From Irako-saki, their eastern part, a straight coast trends
to the eastward for 28 miles to Hamana, which was not seen in passing it,
and, therefore, it is presumed to be shallow. The water about here is
much discoloured.
OMAE-SAKI is a dark wooded bluff 150 feet in height, terminating a very
sandy shore with high beaches, backed by wooded hills. It may also be
recognized by two remarkable white patches, only one of which is visible
from East to West. Two miles E. by S. of its southern point are the Lady
Inglis Rocks, separated by a 6 fathoms channel, reefs extending 2 cables from
622
SOUTH COAST OF NIPON.
the shore. It was discovered by the wreck of the Lady Inglis, Captain H.
Twizell, of Shields, in December, 1859, but its position is here accurately
given by Captain Bullock. The reef quite covers at high water, and does
not always break. It should have a beacon. In a S.W. gale good shelter
may be obtained under the lee of Omae-saki in 7 to 4 fathoms, not closer in.
A vessel may pass inside the reef by giving the shore a berth of a mile. The
bottom is everywhere sand, with shells and stones. There is a lighthouse on
the South bluff.*
CAUTION.-As the Lady Inglis Reef, and also the Portsmouth Breakers,
lie in the direct route of vessels bound to Simoda and Yedo from the
westward, a good look out should be kept, and more than ordinary
care taken when approaching their locality. It may easily be avoided
by a passing vessel in favourable weather, as parts of it being dry at
low water the reef must nearly always show itself by breakers. Al-
though the position assigned on the chart to the Portsmouth breakers
has been sailed over by H.M. ships, and in all kinds of weather, nothing
has been seen since first reported, and it seems highly probable. they are
either identical with the Lady Inglis Reef, or that a shoal of fish or a
current overfall caused the disturbance in the water, which gave birth to
the report.
The current sets strongly through the various passages between the chain
of islands off the Gulf of Yedo, and this should be remembered, particularly
in bad weather. As before stated, in their vinicty in fact throughout the
path of the Japan current from the South end of Formosa to Behring Strait,
constant heavy tide ripst will be encountered, which, in light winds, fre-
quently render a vessel for a time unmanageable.
GULF of SURUGA (the Tutomi Gulf of former charts), the waters of
which wash the western shore of the peninsula of Idsu, is 34 miles deep and
23 miles wide at entrance, and, with the exception of the Lady Inglis Reef,
lying E. by S. 2 miles from Omae-saki, the low sandy West point of
entrance, is free from any impediment to navigation. The water in it is very
deep, no bottom at 250 fathoms being found at mid-entrance, none at 160
fathoms midway across near the head of the gulf, and none at 110 fathoms
at a little more than a mile from the western shore.
* Portsmouth Breakers.-Captain Foote, of the U.S. frigate Portsmouth reports, 30th of
March, 1858, that he nearly lost his vessel on a reef of rocks, about 35 miles in a south-
westerly direction from Simoda, and 13 miles from the nearest land, but no indication of
such a shoal was found by Captain Bullock, though a remarkable discolouration of the water
has been seen.
†These rips have often been mistaken for shoals. See description of Japan stream,
pp. 449, 450.
敷
​FUSIYAMA-SIMIDZU HARBOUR.
623
The eastern side of the gulf, the shore of the Idsu peninsula, is generally
a belt of cliffs, broken, however, into several deep water havens, which,
though small, afford good anchorage, but for sailing vessels with a foul wind
are all difficult of access, and the entrances of those harbours that are known,
Tago, Arari, Heda, and Eno-ura Bays, on the Idsu shore, are too narrow to
admit of much manoeuvring.
FUSIYAMA.—At the head of the gulf is Fusiyama, the highest mountain
in Japan, and although its summit is 15 miles inland, it appears in clear
weather to rise nearly abruptly from the beach.
Fusiyama is held to be sacred by the Japanese, and is the object of pil-
grimage. The first Europeans who ascended it were a party of eight
Englishmen, at the head of whom was Sir Rutherford Alcock, C.B., the
British Envoy and Plenipotentiary in Japan. They left the Consulate at
Kanagawa, September 4th, 1860. The crater on the summit is about 1,000
yards long, 600 yards wide, and 350 yards deep. The height of the edge of
the crater was found to be 13,977 feet, and the highest peak 14,177 feet, lat.
35° 21′ N., long. 138° 42′ W.*
The high road between Yedo and Miako and the western province forms
a tangent to the head of the gulf, and it is very probable that the railroad
from Yedo to Osaka, &c., proposed by the Japanese Government, will pass by
the same route.
SIMIDZU HARBOUR, surveyed by H.M.S. Actæon in 1861, is formed
by a low flat tongue of land of considerable width, stretching out in a
north-easterly direction from the north-western shore of the gulf. It is
most commodious, and affords good shelter in 10 to 15 fathoms soft mud,
with an inner anchorage at its head, available for small craft, in which, if
required, they could be beached for repairs. A small river empties itself at
its head.
This tongue of low land is well covered by sugar plantations and villages.
Its extreme North point, of sand and shingle, is steep-to, there being no
bottom at 100 fathoms at a little more than a mile off shore, and vessels
running for the harbour may safely skirt the beach, and rounding the
point at 2 cables, anchor by the lead, or as convenient. The town is
situated at the South end of the harbour, and appears to be one of
some little importance. It is the centre of a large and productive sugar
growing district; plantations of the cane are to be seen in every direction.
In a timber yard at the North side of the town were some large spars,
pine, and fir (the latter having a very short grain), numerous small rough
* A very interesting account of this ascent of Fusiyama, and of Japanese matters in
general, is given in the Jour. Roy. Geo. Society, 1861, pp. 322-356.
621
SOUTH COAST OF NIPON.
spars, and small pieces of particularly hard oak. There were quantities of
sugar of a very fair quality in the town, also a little flour, a few fowls, fish,
and vegetables. Water was obtained from the authorities.
No coal was seen, but a quantity of charcoal. The latter when attainable
in sufficient quantities is admirably adapted for steaming purposes.
ENO-URA BAY,* an excellent harbour, reported by the Japanese to be a
much better harbour than Simidza, lies in the N.E. angle at the head of
Suruga Gulf, in lat. 35° 3′ N., long. 138° 53′ E. It is 9 cables long, North
and South, and 6 cables deep. Ara sima, a wooded island affording shelter
from westerly winds, lies off the South point of entrance, and there is a
small monument on the North point. The soundings in the bay are deep,
20 to 30 fathoms, and it is open to the West, but there is good shelter from
all winds in a small bay in its northern part, where the depth is 13 fathoms
over a bottom of fine sand. In steering for this small bay, keep midway
between its western shore and the cliffs on the eastern. A town stands on
the western shore.
There is a river in Eno-ura Bay, but as water is obtained from it with
difficulty on account of its shallowness, it is best to procure it from the town
wells. There is abundance of fish and vegetables. The rise and fall of tide
is about 4 feet.
Heda Bay, in lat. 34° 58′ 11″ N., long. 138° 46′ E., is 8 cables in extent
N.W. and S.E., 4 to 9 cables wide, and carries a depth of 8 to 22 fathoms
over a bottom of fine sand. It is a safe and accessible anchorage, and is
sheltered on all sides by high mountains. There is a village in a valley.
Fish and vegetables are abundant.
The entrance to the bay, a quarter of a mile wide, and open to the
N.W., is to the northward of a low and sandy spit extending half a mile
in a northerly direction from the southern shore. The rise of tide is 5
feet.
Arari Bay, sheltered also from all winds, but only fit for small craft,
is in lat. 34° 50′ N., and long. 138° 46′ E. Its extent is 4 cables North
and South, and 2 to 6 cables across, and the depths are 6 to 12 fathoms
over fine sand. The shores of the bay are mountainous.
Water may
be conveniently obtained from the village on the eastern shore; fish is
plentiful.
The entrance is open to the N.W.; in entering keep in mid-channel, and
when a small island opens, steer between it and the sandy point to the
S.W.
Tago Bay, in lat. 34° 47′ 3″ N., long. 138° 44′ 54″ E., is 4 cables in extent
* The description of Eno-ura, Heda, Arari, and Tago Bays, is by Lieut. Elkin, of the
Russian frigate Diana, 1853--55.
VOLCANIC ISLETS, SOUTH-EAST OF JAPAN.
625
North and South, and half a mile wide. It is sheltered from all winds, and
carries a depth of 12 to 20 fathoms, soft mud bottom. There is a small town
here, and water can be obtained from the wells. Fish and vegetables can
be procured.
In steering for the entrance, which is also open to the N.W., two islands
(lying half a mile W.N.W. from the South point of entrance) will be seen,
with rocks and breakers extending to the southward from them. Pass
northward of these islands, between them and the mainland.
These four bays just described will serve as a refuge from S.W. winds,
which cause a great swell in Suruga Gulf. Their coasts are wooded and
mountainous, attaining the height of 1,000 feet. The entrances must be
approached fearlessly, for the high coast conceals them, and the bays only
open when within a mile.
VOLCANIC ISLETS, SOUTH-EAST OF JAPAN.
A very remarkable range of detached islets and rocks extends for nearly
300 miles in a S.S.E. direction from the entrance of the Gulf of Yedo. There
is no portion of the ocean which has been more misrepresented than this in
our older works, and the great number of supposed discoveries rendered the
charts so confused that no adequate idea could be gained of their number or
arrangement. The author endeavoured in 1858 to reconcile these vague
surmises and great discrepancies, so as to give a more correct representation
of their real character.*
This geographical confusion has arisen no doubt from the unsuspected in-
fluence of the great Japanese current, which rushes through the group with
exaggerated and uncertain velocity, and thus affecting the dead reckoning of
many or most of the ships which announced discoveries, most of which are
to the eastward of the true positions. It will be unnecessary to discuss these
varying accounts, since they are now in a great measure reconciled by exact
observations; and this is of the greatest importance, seeing that an increasing
commerce between China, Japan, and North-Western America, passes
through these channels. What follows will, therefore, be confined to a brief
description of what is well ascertained, connected with an identification, when
possible, with what has been but vaguely surmised.
00-SIMA, or Vries Island, is the northernmost of these islands. It is
sometimes called Ohosima; and, being an active volcano, Krusenstern applied
the name of Vries Island to it, to distinguish it from that to the southward.
On Von Siebold's chart it is called Barneveld's Island. Its south-eastern
North Pacific.
* See Transactions of the British Association, 1858.
2 6
626
VOLCANIC ISLETS, SOUTH-EAST OF JAPAN.
point is in lat. 34° 39′ N., long. 139° 28′ E. The island is oval shaped,
about 8 miles in extent N.N.W. W. and S.S.E. E., and 5 miles wide,
and its summit attains an elevation of 2,556 feet. At its centre is an
active volcano, over which a white vapour cloud is generally floating, and
frequently, at night, it brightly reflects the glare of the subterranean fires at
work in the crater beneath, forming in clear weather a conspicuous landmark
visible by night or day for many leagues.
There are several villages on the island, and a considerable population.
The coast line is free of all danger, with the exception of a few detached
rocks and boulders lying close to it. The principal village is on the North
side, off which a narrow bank of soundings affords a precarious anchorage
in 12 to 18 fathoms. Another considerable village, having the advantage of
a junk harbour, is situated at the south-east point of the island. Landing
may be effected at the North village, or in the junk harbour. The in-
habitants were civil and hospitable, but averse to strangers visiting the
volcano.
The Broken Islands of the old charts lie to the southward of Oö-sima. They
are now tolerably well represented on the charts, having been examined by
H.M.S Acteon in 1861. They consist of the following.
To Sima, bearing S.S.W. 10 miles from Oö-sima, N. W. 2 miles from
Utoné, is one mile in diameter, pyramidal shaped, and its summit 1,736 feet
above the sea.
Utone' is a conical islet, 666 feet high. Detached rocks lie near its
shores.
NII SIMA is about 24 miles S. W. from Utoné, and 1½ miles N.E. of
Sikine, and from its broken outline appears from a distance as several
islands. Its extent is 5 miles, North and South, and its most elevated
part 1,496 feet above the sea. There is a small low islet a short distance off
its S.E. point.
Sikine Sima is low, with a small islet off its North end. It is 1 miles
long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and lies 5 miles N.E. of Kosu sima. One of the
vessels of the American squadron passed between these islands, and saw no
danger; there is, therefore, reason to believe that the channel is safe.
KOSU SIMA, in lat. 34° 13′ N., long. 139° 8' E. (centre), and elevated
2,000 feet above the sea, is 3 miles long N.E. and S.W., and may be recog-
nized by a remarkable snow-white cliff on its western side, and a white patch
on its summit, to the northward of the cliff. There is a safe channel 15
miles wide between Kosu sima and Miaki.
Two small rocky islets (on Japanese authority) lie close together about half
a mile off the centre of the eastern shore of Kosu sima. About 2 miles
southward of the S.W. point of Kosu sima are the Brood Rocks, which
should be given a safe berth, as their jagged appearance would lead to
REDFIELD ROCKS.
627
the belief that there are many hidden dangers in their immediate neigh-
bourhood.
Onohara is a small islet W.S.W. 5 miles distant from Miaki. It is not
known to have been visited by Europeans, but from a distance appears to
maintain the usual bold characteristics of the other islands.
REDFIELD ROCKS, or Sanbon-take, were thus named by Commodore
Perry, U.S.N., in 1854, after the well-known meteorologist, and he also
ascertained their exact position (see Narrative of U.S. Japan Expedition,
p. 481).
They are the most western of the chain of islands and rocks South of the
Gulf of Yedo, and the most dangerous of the whole group. They consist of
two patches of black rocks extending nearly 3 miles N.N.E. and S.S.W.,
and have deep water all round them. The southern rocks, in lat. 33° 56′ 13″
N., long. 138° 48′ 31″ E., are the highest, about 20 feet above high water,
while the northern are only about half that height. Nearly midway between
the patches is a flat rock, over which the sea breaks heavily, and the heads of
two or three small rocks crop up around it. There is said to be deep water
between the flat rock and the northern patch, and the channel is reported
to be clear, but except in a case of sudden emergency it would not be
prudent to attempt passing through.* The northern group is in lat. 33°
57' 31' N., long. 138° 49′ 13″.
The hand lead will afford no warning when approaching this dangerous
cluster, and in thick weather the islands in the vicinity, the nearest being
Kosu sima, N.E. E. 20 miles distant, would not be seen; in fact, seeing
the islands, the dangers themselves would be visible, and therefore easily
avoided.
A depth of 70 fathoms, gravelly bottom, was obtained about 4 miles
northward of the rocks; and at 2 miles West of their centre there was no
bottom at 130 fathoms. The current in their vicinity set on one occasion
about N. by E., and its rate was 2 to 3 knots.
MIAKI, Mitake, or Volcano Island.-The summit of this island is in lat.
34° 6′ N., long. 139° 31'. It is called Brandten Eyland (burning island) by
De Vries, who places a group of rocks to the S.W. of it. Broughton says
that there are, in addition, some black rocks at the distance of 2 or 3 miles
from the East point of the island. According to him Volcano Island
is large, well cultivated, and covered with verdure to the summit of a
very high mountain which stands on it, and presents a very agreeable
prospect.
Mikura, or Prince Island of De Vries, is also high. Its summit is in lat.
* Captain J. E. Donnell passed through this channel on May 6th, 1850. He says that
the whole group is very dangerous.
2s 2
628
VOLCANIC ISLETS, SOUTH EAST OF JAPAN.
33° 52′, long. 139° 34′; Von Siebold marks it as the Ongelukkig Eyland
of De Vries.
BROUGHTON ROCK, or Kanawa, in lat. 33° 39' N., long. 139° 17′ E., is
a small inaccessible islet about 65 feet high, flat topped, and so bold that at
about a third of a mile from its N.E. side no soundings could be obtained
with 180 fathoms line.
The northerly current in the neighbourhood of this islet was found to be
particularly strong, running nearly 4 knots an hour.
FATSIZIO ISLAND, the most southern of the islands visited by the
Actæon in 1861, is 8 miles long, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and 4 miles
wide at its broadest part. In shape it is nearly an oblong, rounded at the
N.W. end, while at its S.E. end a slight curve forms a bay, the spot of ob-
servation in which, close to some small huts, is in lat. 33° 4′ 24″ N., long.
139° 50′ 24″ E. Anchorage was obtained off this bay in 16 fathoms, sand
and gravel, at less than a mile from the shore, but quite exposed from
S.S.W. to N.N.E., and a vessel would always be liable to experience a heavy
swell. There were 30 fathoms, dark sand, at about 2 miles off this shore,
but the rest of the coast line appeared to share the bold features and to be as
steep-to as the generality of these islands.
This island is a penal settlement of Japan. Its highest part is the
northern, where a mountain reaches an elevation of 2,846 feet. At the base
of this mountain, and creeping up for some distance on its West side, is
an extensive settlement, while in several places along both shores, are
found little hamlets and villages, so that the island would appear to support
a considerable population. A tract of low land in the centre of and extend-
ing across the island is well cultivated. To the southward of this the land
again assumes a considerable elevation, but does not reach the altitude of
the northern part.
At the S.E. end of Fatsizio are two or three small streams of delicious
water falling down the rocks, and in fine weather and smooth water boats
may readily obtain an abundant supply.
Kodsine is a small and nearly oval shaped island, 1,826 feet high, 1
mile long, and nearly one mile broad, lying westward of the highest part of
Fatsizio, and separated from that island by a channel about 2 miles wide,
which has not yet been sounded. Some small rocks, as is also the case with
Fatsizio, are found quite close in shore, but no off-lying dangers are at pre-
sent known, and the lead gives no soundings at 53 fathoms, a little more than
a mile from its western shore. A small population is to be found on the
lower part of the island.
AOGA, or Onango-sima, or South Island, is a Dutch discovery verified by
Colnett. It was also reported as a new island of Captain Drescher, in the
Hamburg barque Walter, August 18, 1852. It was not visited by H.M.S.
Actœon in 1861, but the position of its eastern summit was assumed (from a
KONING WILLEM III. ISLAND.
629
true bearing of it from Fatsizio, and the difference of latitude from a
Japanese chart proved very nearly correct in most details) to be in lat.
32° 37′ N., long. 139° 47′ E. The island is 3 miles long, and visible 36
miles off in clear weather. Its coasts are steep, and the only landing place
is on the East side, where there is a rock level with the water at a little dis-
tance from the land. It is inhabited and cultivated on the North and N.W.
sides.
KONING WILLEM III. ISLAND was seen, if not discovered, by Captain
A. C. Van Braam Houckgeest, in H. Netherlands M. brig Koerier, on
August 24, 1849, determining the position as lat. 31° 52′ 48″ N., long. by
three chronometers as 139° 58′ 46" W. It was named after the King of
Holland. A reef hereabout was,seen, according to Mr. Reynolds' memoir,
(page 212), in 1825, on the authority of Captain Macy, by Captain Coffin.
If this be correct, it ought to be called Coffin Island. Most likely it is the
same as Tibbitt Island; but, as stated below, there is still considerable doubt
as to the positions of this dangerous cluster.
This reef was evidently seen by the Elizabeth Kimball, in May, 1863 Her
commander places them in 31° 52′ N., long. 139° 53′; the current setting
N.E. 2 knots. A shoal was plainly seen, the bottom visible in about 5
fathoms, at 7 miles W.S. W. from the rocks. Strong ripplings will be en-
countered at 8 or 10 miles W.S.W. of their position.
Notwithstanding these circumstantial accounts which so nearly accord in
their position of this reef, there is much difficulty in determining whether
there is more than one reef, as will be seen below.
La Bayonnaise Island is one of these difficulties. It was seen by Captain
Jurien de la Gravière, in the French corvette La Bayonnaise, on May 31,
1850, fixing the position as lat. 32° 0' 41" N., long. 130° 59' 20" W., or eight
miles North of the Koerier's position of the island above mentioned. But
the descriptions of each accord exactly. The French account is that it is a
low, lurking curvilinear reef, under 400 feet in extent, with a few peaked
rocks at its North end. The highest hummock is at the North end, and not
more than 20 feet high. There are three pinnacles, and when seen from the
South, the North rock seems as a column.
On August 18, 1852, Captain Drescher, of the Hamburg barque Walter,
At 5
saw an island at noon, which coincides in position with South Island.
p.m. he saw a cluster which resembled those seen in La Bayonnaise, but
which he places 6 miles to the N.W. On April 2nd, 1856, the barque Live
Yankee passed this neighbourhood. A confused report from the commander,
Captain Grove, states that he saw a cluster of rocks, the highest about 40
feet high, between the latitudes of the rocks seen in the Koerier and La
Bayonnaise. Another island was seen to the northward, and also South
630
VOLCANIC ISLETS, SOUTH-EAST OF JAPAN.
Island. This, if correct, would settle the question as to there being two
islands.*
It is much to be desired that these rocks should be properly surveyed and
placed on the charts.
SMITH ISLAND, the next to the southward, was reported by Captain
Smith, of the Heber, from Whampoa to San Francisco. It was first seen in
March, 1846, during a gale of wind; and on the return voyage, in December,
1846, a boat was sent alongside during a calm, lat. 31° 12′, long. 139° 55'.
It is of a needle shape, and probably 300 feet high, but not more than 250
feet in diameter at the base. (This has a suspicious resemblance to St.
Peter's Rock.) It is surrounded by smaller peaks beneath the surface, but
there is no danger near it.†
But notwithstanding the doubt as to its position, there can be no question
of its existence; for Captain John K. Stickney, of the American barque
Sarah Warren, after seeing Ponafidin Island, saw this rock, which he de-
scribes as resembling a ship under sail, and N.N.W. N. 8 or 9 leagues
from the former. At a short distance East of it was a rock, on which the sea
broke furiously.
The position given by H.M.S. Tribune, which passed it January 18, 1859,
is lat. 31° 18′ N., long. 139° 50′ E., a high pinnacle-looking rock, about
three-quarters of a mile in circumference, with heavy breakers extending
apparently a quarter of a mile from it, and a small rock close-to on the
North side.
Jeannette Island is probably the same. It is merely stated by Admiral
Krusenstern and Mr. Reynolds to be in lat. 31° 30′ N., long. 140° 0′ E., and
an exaggerated report by the ship Hurricane, Sept. 3rd, 1852, refers most
likely to the same. Todos los Santos and San Tomas, of the old charts, may refer
to this or the next.
Ponafidin Island was discovered in 1820, by the Russian lieutenant of
that name, in lat. 30° 29′ N., long. 140° 6'. He gave the name of Three Hill,
or Three Hummock Island, to it.
ST. PETER'S or BLACK ROCK, perhaps Lot's Wife.-In 1821, Lieut.
Povalichin, of the Russian navy, discovered a rock of the form of a trun-
cated cone, in lat. 30° 31'. Krusenstern thought it to be the same as Pona-
* Besides the notices above cited, there are many others which it is almost certain refer
to one or other of these groups, if there be more than one. Of these the Sylph Rock of Mr.
Dobell; San Mateo Island of the old charts; the island seen by Captain Moor; Clerk's or
Clark Reef; the Flavius Rock, seen by Captain W. J. Rogers, Feb. 7, 1851; and several
more which need no further notice.
+ There is much doubt as to this position, for Admiral Krusenstern's track, Sept. 23rd,
1826, passes close to it. In Mr. Reynolds' memoir two other rocks are reported at 22 and
72 miles respectively, due West of it.
ST. PETER'S OR BLACK ROCK.
631
fidin discovered, but the descriptions do not agree. In 1853, Captain A.
Somerby, commanding the American barque Isabelita Hyne, discovered an
island or rock, of very singular form, in lat. 29° 42', long. 140° 15'. It is
about 200 feet high, and 100 feet in diameter, with quite perpendicular sides.
He ran within 3 miles of it, no bottom. It looks black, having the appearance
of a bottle. He called it Black Rock, and considered it to be very dangerous,
for if struck by a vessel there is little chance of getting on the rock; and, if
gained, not a vestige of vegetation on it. It has a little lean to the West,
bearing North. His observations were good both for chronometer and
latitude. (From the description this must be the same as that discovered by
the Russian officer above mentioned.) It was also seen by the Linda, in
1851, by which it is placed in lat. 29° 42', long. 140° 31' E, and was thought
to be like a ship.
It was seen by the ships Macedonia and Vincennes, of the U.S. North
Pacific Surveying Expedition, and is placed by the former vessel in 29° 47′ N.,
long. 140° 22′ 30″, which must be taken as correct. Its altitude was calcu-
lated to be 299 feet, and its base 40 feet.
This very extraordinary rock, unlike almost every other known isolated
peak, is thus correctly placed on the chart, but it has been, and perhaps still
is, the subject of much doubt.
Captain John Meares, well known in the history of early discoveries in the
North Pacific, passed this, or a similar rock, when in command of the Felice,
April 9th. 1788. Like most others who first saw it, he took it for a ship-
a first-rate man-of-war, under a crowd of sail. "It obtained the name of
Lot's Wife, and is one of the most wonderful objects, taken in all its circum-
stances, which I ever beheld. The waves broke against its rugged front
with a fury proportioned to the immense distance they had to roll before
they were interrupted by it. It rose almost perpendicular to the height of
near 350 feet. A small black rock appeared just above the water at about
40 or 50 yards from its western edge. There was a cavern on its S.E. side,
into which the waters rolled with an awful and tremendous noise." -(Meares,
p. 97.)
Its position, as stated by Meares, was 29° 50′, long. 142° 23', or about 105
miles eastward of that assigned to the St. Peter's Rock. This would cer-
tainly not be too much to allow for the strong easterly drift, unsuspected by
Meares; but a singular and inexplicable difference is shown in Meares's
chart, which places Lot's Wife in long. 156° 0′ E., or 15 degrees to the
eastward. This position is not at all borne out by the text, which describes
his passing islands and land, which can hold no relation to it; and therefore,
at present, it must be taken as erroneous.
It may, therefore, be considered that this volcanic mass, Lot's Wife, is
identical with St. Peter's Island, until it is disproved. It is also the same
632
THE GULF OF YEDO.
as the Haystack of Krusenstern, and possibly the Rica de Oro of the old
charts.
The continuation of this line of volcanic eruptive rocks, through the
Volcano, and Bonin Islands, &c., will be described hereafter.
THE GULF OF YEDO.
The GULF of YEDO, connected with Yedo Bay by the Uraga channel, is
bounded on the West by the mountainous peninsula of Idsu (terminated
to the southward in Cape Idsu, the southern point of which is 52 miles dis-
tant) and on the East by that of Awa. From it the coast rounds in a N.E.
direction 26 miles to Futo saki, its general features being high, rocky, and
even, having near Simoda a few sandy beaches. Between Simoda and
Futo saki, the coast is bold of approach. Over it, the mountain Amagi yama
rises to 4,700 feet, and on the north-east ridge is a conspicuous dome-
shaped hill.
From Futo saki the coast trends more to the northward, forming a slight
bend to Fuku-ura, where it becomes more broken, but maintains its bold
features under a lower range, the two highest points of which are elevated
2,970 and 2,466 feet; under the latter is a round hill with a large quarry
facing the gulf. From these hills the long low promontory of Manatsuru,
bordered by vertical cliffs, stretches to the eastward, and off its extreme
point is a rock 20 feet high. On its West side is the open bay of Fuku-ura,
not yet surveyed. From thence the coast assumes a lower elevation, and
gradually bending round to the eastward forms the treacherous Bay of
Odawara. To the northward of Futo saki are some small islands, the
largest of which, Ha sima, 120 feet high, is about 3 miles off shore.
W. by N. from this island is the small bay of Ajiro. The position of this
bay is more to the northward than that assigned to it on the chart, it may
be distinguished by a small white cliff to the northward; the water in the
bay is deep, there being no bottom at 20 fathoms at the entrance; a natural
breakwater forms a shelter for small vessels, but the water is deep within
it, there being from 13 to 5 fathoms.
The Bay of Odawara, from the lowness of the land at its head, has been
(when the charts were in error) mistaken by strangers for the Uraga channel,
and occasionally at night by the more familiar navigator. When past Vries
Island, however, the channel will be recognised by Su saki, its East point of
entrance, being comparatively high (645 feet), whereas Cape Sagami, the
southern part of the peninsula of that name on the West side of entrance,
is not more than 70 feet high, with the exception of a small hill of 200 feet
elevation on the centre of its South part, named Tree Saddle, from two con-
spicuous clumps of large trees on its summit. The fixed light on Nosima
Point will indicate it by night.
CAPE IDSU.
633
The peninsula of Awa, although mountainous, is less so than Idsu, and
possesses much larger tracts of arable land, all of which is carefully culti-
vated. Its West coast is more sinuous than the opposite shore of the gulf,
but only one of the bays, Tatiyama, formed in it, affords fair anchorage.
Numerous small off-lying rocks stud the coast from Su saki as far north-
ward as Kanaya point, the outer of which is the Ghibu-isi or Black
Rock, about 20 feet high, lying N. by W. 13 miles of Daibo point and a
mile off shore. To the south-east of it are several small rocks which only
uncover at low water. Kanaya Point bears nearly East of the Tree
Saddle on Sagami Peninsula, and is at the termination of the sharp well
defined ridge of the Miogani yama, the fine dome-shaped mountain, ele-
vated 1,096 feet. With the exception of some few of these rocks most
of them show above water, and no danger is at present known to be a
greater distance than a mile off shore.
To the northward of these hills the country (Kadsusa) becomes much
lower, and a few miles north-eastward of Futsu saki, the point off which
runs the Saratoga spit, it becomes an uninteresting dead flat, encircling the
head of Yedo Bay.
CAPE IDSU, or Iro-o Saki, a fine bold rocky headland which cannot be
mistaken, is the southern extremity of the mountainous peninsula of Idsu.
It will be recognized by a conspicuous white cliff, 3 miles to the N.W. of
it, and a conical rocky peak a few miles farther in the same direction, form-
ing the south-western extreme of the peninsula. The summit of Cape Idsu is a
hill 250 feet high, which falls into two small ridges to the sea. There is
an islet 50 feet high a quarter of a mile off the shore, one mile West of the
cape.
ROCK ISLAND Lighthouse.-Rock Island, or Mikomoto, is about 120 feet
high, and a third of a mile in length, with precipitous shores and an uneven
outline, bears E. by S. S. about 5 miles from Cape Idsu. A lighthouse
was completed on it in 1870. It shows a bright fixed light (temporary) at
80 feet, visible 14 miles off. Lat. 34° 34′ 20″ N., long. 138° 57′ 10″ E.
Between this rock and the main land are the Ucona and four other rocks,
among which the junks freely pass; but a vessel should not attempt to run
inside Rock Island at night. The tides also are uncertain, the north-easterly
current, which is not to be relied upon, running sometimes 3 to 4 knots
per hour; at other times regular tides have been observed, the flood setting
W.S.W., the ebb E.N.E., 1½ miles per hour. The channel between Rock
Island and Ucona Rocks carries irregular soundings of 9 and 14 to 30 fathoms.
Ucona Rocks, two in number, though they generally appear as one, bear
N. by W., distant 2 miles from Rock Island; the largest is about 70 feet
high. Four other rocks occupy a triangular space of a mile from W.S.W.
to N.N.W. of the Ucona. The northern and southern of these are small
ledges nearly awash. A reef also extends 3½ cables towards them from To-
634
THE GULF OF YEDO.
hadgi Point to the N.W. of the Ucona. There is deep water between all
these rocks.
SIMODA HARBOUR* is on the eastern side of the peninsula of Idsu,
6 miles N.E. of the cape. To the northward of the harbour a high ridge
intersects the peninsula; and South of this, all the way to the cape, it is
broken by innumerable peaks of less elevation.
Vandalia Bluff, the East point of entrance to the harbour, will be known
by a grove of pine trees on the summit of the bluff, and the village of
Susaki, which is about a third of the way between it and Cape Diamond.
Cape Diamond, or Sumegi Saki, is 1 miles eastward of the entrance,
and immediately off it is a rocky islet, and northward of it the bay of Sira-
hama, which, as it has several sand beaches, may be mistaken for Simoda
Harbour; but on approaching this, Cape Diamond will shut in Cape Idsu,
the Ucona Rocks, and Rock Island to the southward, whilst in Simoda road
they are visible from all points. The town of Simoda stands on the West
shore of the harbour, and Kakisaki village on the East. There is good land-
ing for boats in Simoda creek, and also at the village.
Simoda (which means "low field ") was the port selected, with Hakodade
at the South end of Yeso, as the first treaty ports by the American Expedi-
tion; and is, therefore, of much interest to the commercial world. The
treaty was signed, as is well known, on March 31st, 1854. The first vessel
which took advantage of the treaty was the American schooner C. E. Foote,
fitted out by Messrs. Reed and Dougherty, who came to Hakodade on Feb.
13th, 1855, and then took the crew of the Russian frigate Diana from Simoda
to Petropaulovski.†
Centre Island, lying nearly in the middle of Simoda harbour, bears N.
3 E. 5 miles from Rock Island, and N. by E. E. 31 miles from the
Ucona Rocks. It is high, conical, covered with trees, and a cave passes
entirely through it.
Buisaco Islet, a quarter of a mile N.N.E. from Centre Island, is about
40 feet high, and covered with trees and shrubs.
Southampton and Supply Rocks.—There are but two bidden dangers in
Simoda Harbour; the first is Southampton Rock, which is in mid-channel,
S. by E. E., 2 cables from the South point of Centre Island, and N. W.
from Vandalia Bluff, about three-fourths of the way between it and Centre
Island; it is about 25 feet in diameter, has 2 fathoms water on it, and has
been marked by a white spar buoy. The other is the Supply Rock, lying
* The harbour was surveyed in 1854 by the officers under Commodore Perry, U.S.N.,
and the directions which follow are based upon those drawn up by Lieutenant Wm. L.
Maury, U.S.N.
+ See Commodore Perry's "Narrative," pages 440, 453, &c.
SIMODA HARBOUR.
635
It is a
South by West a short distance from Buisaco or Misana Islet.
sharp rock, with 11 feet of water on it, and has been marked by a red
spar-buoy.
In the outer road, or mouth of the harbour, a disagreeable swell is
sometimes experienced; but inside Southampton Rock and Centre Island,
vessels are well sheltered, and the water comparatively smooth. Moor with
open hawse to the S.W.
When this harbour was surveyed in 1853–54, the bottom throughout was
mud; but a few months subsequently the harbour was scoured out to its
granite foundations by the back sweep of three huge waves which in succes-
sion rose over the tops of the highest trees, and left the bay nearly empty.
Large junks were thrown some distance inland, and the Russian frigate
Diana left all but a total wreck.* It has never since afforded good holding
ground in the event of a storm, but it was always an unsafe and exposed bay
when the anchorage ground was tolerable, being open to South and S.S.W.,
the direction from which the heaviest winds blow.
The town was being rebuilt when it was visited by Captain Sherard Osborn,
R.N., four years after, and his "Cruise in Japanese Waters," p. 392, gives
a pleasant account of the place.
It is high water, full and change, in Simoda Harbour, at 5h 0m; extreme
rise of tide, 5 ft. 7 in.; mean rise, 3 ft.
DIRECTIONS.-In navigating the south-eastern coast of Japan, after
passing Cape Chichakoff, in Van Diemen Strait, if the weather be thick,
the vessel's position should be well ascertained before she is hauled to the
E.N.E., as her course is parallel to the high land for about 20 miles from
the pitch of the cape. It should also be borne in mind that, as far as our
knowledge extends, the current on this coast generally runs to the E.N.E. at
the rate of 40 miles a day; it may, however, be entirely checked for twenty-
four hours by a N.E. wind, when it may be again expected to resume
*The tremendous convulsion here alluded to is one of the most remarkable on record.
Admiral Count Pontiatine has given a brief statement of its effect on the Diana. On Dec.
23rd, 1854, at 91a.m., without any previous indication, the shock of an earthquake occurred,
which lasted two or three minutes, shaking the vessel very much. At 10h a huge wave
entered the bay, and, rushing on the shore, washed nearly every building in Simoda away.
A second wave rushed in five minutes afterwards, and at 101h a third wave left only sixteen
out of one thousand houses standing. From 103h till noon the water sunk and rose so ex-
traordinarily that the depth varied from 8 feet to 40 feet depth at her moorings, and she
was flung about and turned no less than 43 times round her anchor in thirty minutes. After
this the agitation diminished, but continued for some hours. The Diana was much injured,
and her crew, on January 18th, were compelled to leave her. She was taken in tow by 100
junks to carry her into the bay, but after proceeding a few miles, a small white cloud ap-
peared, on perceiving which the Japanese fled panic stricken, and cast her adrift. In a
very short time a violent storm arose, in which she foundered. The waves which were raised
reached the Coast of California a few hours after, and were registered then.
*
636
THE GULF OF YEDO.
its former course, and possibly run with greater rapidity than usual for one
or two days.
Vessels, therefore, bound to the eastward must allow for this current, and
should keep not more than 30 miles off shore, so as to be enabled, if neces-
sary, to verify their reckoning by sighting the land,* as also to avoid being
set to the southward, as is sometimes the case when approaching Cape
Idsu, and with light winds it is difficult to regain the coast. In the sum-
mer season the north-easterly current is not to be expected in the vicinity of
Cape Idsu.
In approaching the Gulf of Yedo, the remarkable high mountain Fusi
yama, a lofty and symmetrical truncated cone of 14,177 feet elevation, and so
different in form from any other land in its vicinity, cannot fail to be of.
great service in directing vessels either to Simoda or Yedo. In clear weather
it is the first distant land seen, and generally to the north-eastward, visible
at times upwards of 100 miles. Cape Idsu is in line with it when bearing
North. When bound from the southward and westward endeavour to make
Cape Idsu, and if the weather is at all clear, the chain of islands off the
Gulf of Yedo will at the same time be plainly visible. Omae saki, the West
point of entrance to Suruga Gulf, cannot be mistaken for Cape Idsu, the
former being low, with a sandy beach and low sand hills, with occasional
patches of trees, and the coast is said to preserve this character for 30 or 40
miles to the westward; whereas the cape is high and rocky, and its summit
generally hidden in the clouds. Rock Island being low, unless the weather
is clear, will not be seen until long after this cape and Vries island are
made.
If intending to anchor at Simoda, pass Rock island at a mile, when the
harbour will be in full view to the northward. Standing in from this island
a vessel will probably pass through a number of tide rips, but no sound-
ings will be obtained with the hand lead until near the entrance, when the
depth will be 14 to 27 fathoms. Should the wind be from the northward,
and fresh, she should anchor at the mouth of the harbour until it lulls or
shifts, or until she can conveniently warp in, as the wind is usually flawy
and always baffling.
Approaching from the N.E. or eastward, a vessel can pass on either side
of Vries island, from the North and South points of which, Cape Diamond
bears respectively W.S.W. and West, distant about 21 miles. Between
Vries and Simoda no dangers are known to exist; but the currents are un-
certain, and strong near the coast.
It is recommended to make Siwo misaki, the East point of entrance to the Kii Chan-
nel, whenever practicable.
ODAWARA BAY.
637
Should Vries be obscured by thick weather, before reaching Cape Diamond*
endeavour to sight Rock island, for there are no conspicuous objects on the
main land by which a stranger can recognize the harbour at a distance, and
the shore appears as one unbroken line, To the westward of the harbour
there are several sand beaches, and three or four sand banks; these can be
plainly discerned when within 6 or 8 miles, and are good landmarks. Off
the village of Susaki, at a third of a mile from the shore, is a ledge of rocks
upon which the surf is always breaking. Give them a berth of 2 cables
in passing.
Approaching Simoda from the south-east pass westward of Kosu Sima,
from which the harbour bears N. by W. W. distant about 27 miles,
From Cape Diamond the eastern coast of the Idsu Peninsula trends to
N.N.E. for 20 miles, and then recedes slightly to the westward, forming a
bay, at the head of which is Atami, a place passed by Sir Rutherford Alcock,
in his journey from Yedo to Fusiyama. At Atami is a hot sulphur spring.
From a vent, about six times a day, an immense column of steam and hot
water is ejected. These baths are frequented by the Japanese, and there is
a small village of 200 or 300 houses. The head of the great bight is formed
by low land, and called Odawara Bay. Around the head of this bay the
railroad, which is proposed to connect Yedo with Oösaka, will pass.
ODAWARA BAY.-Care must be observed when steering for the Uraga
Channel not to be drawn into this bay, as a considerable indraught has
always been experienced, and the low land at the head of the bay
contrasted with the high land to the westward of it, looks so distant, that
the bay has often been mistaken for the channel, and the error only dis-
covered when deeply embayed, and probably close to some of the reefs which
skirt the head and East side of the bay, the most dangerous of which is the
Macedonia Reef.
This indraught considerably increases the difficulties experienced by a
sailing ship in extricating herself from the dangers on the East side of the
bay with a southerly wind, especially should it fall light.
Ino Sima, 220 feet high, is the eastern extreme of the low shore fronting
the plain at the head of Odawara Bay, which is said to be very shallow,
although there are 56 fathoms at 4 miles distance. A large reef, marked by
a peaked rock, 30 feet high, was seen breaking heavily off the beach, 2
miles to the West of Ino sima. Ino sima has bold high cliffs of a light
colour, which makes it very conspicuous, and a flattish summit with a few
large trees. On the S.E. it cannot be approached within three-quarters of
a mile, as an extensive reef skirts that part of the island. The island is
* Commander C. Bullock, R.N., observed, October 6th, 1866, some submarine jets, ap-
parently of steam, about 10 miles N.E. of Cape Diamond, and 2 miles off the land.
638
THE GULF OF YEDO.
connected with the main, where the Sagami hills terminate, by a narrow
ridge of shingle, which covers at high water, to the westward of which a
small river disembogues. There is generally a heavy ground swell at this
part of the bay.
The white pointed cliffs of Kotzbomura will be seen 2 miles East of Ino
sima (the coast between being skirted by sunken reefs), and are a guide to
the only anchorage on the North side of Odawara Bay.
Horino-utsi-mura Bay.-The bay directly East of the white cliffs is full of
reefs, and cannot be approached, but Horino-utsi-mura Bay, the bay next
S.E., and to the North of Imperieuse Bluff, is a fair temporary anchorage,
though exposed to W. and S.W. winds.
A reef, 3 cables long, extends from a low point at the foot of Imperieuse
Bluff. To the N.W. of this, a chain of rocks runs out westward from the
low point just North of the bluff; the centre part of these is marked by a
large white-topped rock, 20 feet high; the outer rock is very small, but
uncovered. At 3 or 4 cables North of this chain there is anchorage in 4 to 8
fathoms. The Dove and Leven anchored here, the line of rocks quite break-
ing the heavy swell from the South.
Macedonian Reef lies off the East side of Odawara Bay, at 4 miles
N.N.W. of the lighthouse on the West end of Joka sima. It dries in many
places at low tide, and, except in the smoothest water, always betrays itself
by a breaker when covered, and is therefore easily avoided in day-time; but
if it be not visible, do not bring the lighthouse to the southward of S.S.E.
E. until the South end of the first range of hills, 700 feet high, North of
Cape Sagami, bears E. N. The ranges of Sagami peninsula terminate in
Imperieuse Bluff, 500 feet high, wooded, and very conspicuous. By keeping
the West slope of the bluff N. by E. a vessel will pass three-quarters of a
mile outside the reef in 30 fathoms.
ASINA BAY.-Vessels embarrassed in the vicinity of the Macedonian
Reef may find an anchorage about 1 mile N.E. of it in Asina Bay, in 4 to
8 fathoms, good holding-ground, and sheltered from all points except west-
ward, in which direction the sea has a clear fetch of 20 miles; but only a
case of extreme emergency would justify a stranger using it. There are
some rocks off the North side of the bay, but they show, and are easily
avoided by keeping mid-channel.
Ko-adjiro Bay.—There are two or three excellent havens for small craft
and junks on the West shore of Sangami peninsula, to the southward of the
Macedonian Reef. Ko-adjiro, the largest of these, is 2 miles North of Joka
sima lighthouse, or three-quarters of a mile N.E. of the Moroisi, a long reef
of rocks, which extend off the point N. by W. W. of the lighthouse.
There is no difficulty in entering. There is a reef off the North point of
entrance which, with only 1 fathom water on it, stretches half across the
entrance, with a 4-fathoms channel on the bold South shore. Further in a
TATIYAMA BAY-URAGA CHANNEL.
639
perch marks the end of the shoal from the South shore. Inside this is secure
anchorage for a small vessel in 3 fathoms.
SU SAKI, on the East side of the entrance of the Gulf of Yedo, when
seen from the southward appears as a block of small hills, rather conical in
profile, the highest, Hazama, being elevated 650 feet. The point is low,
with the exception of a small elevation, at the N.W. corner, on which is an
old fort. There is a heavy tide rip off it, but no dangers at a greater dis-
tance than half a mile from the shore, and the point may be safely rounded
at a mile.
NOSIMA POINT and LIGHT.-The southern extremity of the eastern
promontory of Yedo Gulf is Nosima. To the West of it is Mela Point, from
which the dangerous Mela Ledge extends for 1½ mile, and beyond this is a
rocky bank, stretching 3 miles further. Over these a heavy sea rolls at
times.
The Lighthouse is deserving of especial notice, as being one of the first
of its kind erected on European principles in Japan, the other being on the
opposite point of Kanon-saki. It is an octagonal white tower, which shows
a brilliant fixed light, from a first-order lens apparatus, elevated 134 ft. above
high water, and visible 20 miles off.
TATIYAMA BAY.-The coast from Su saki doubles back abruptly to
the eastward 4 or 5 miles before taking its northerly trend, forming, with
Daibo saki, the point next North of Su saki, the Bay of Tatiyama, in which
shelter and good holding-ground may be found in southerly and easterly
gales, but it is quite exposed to the westward.
Volk
The best position to anchor is in about 7 fathoms, a quarter of a mile
eastward of Taka sima, the easternmost of the two small but well wooded
islands on the South side of the bay, with the West extreme of Daibo saki
N.N.W. W., and Siro yama, a hill 290 feet high, S.S.E. † E. This hill is
remarkable from having a clump on it, and being the North extreme of some
rising ground in the S.E. corner of the bay. This position is well sheltered.
from North round East to W. by S., but should there be any appearance of
the wind veering westward, an early departure is recommended, as a heavy
sea quickly tumbles in.
The Acteon obtained fish and fowls in small quantities. Water was
brought off in boats by the villagers residing at a hamlet situated at the base
of Siro yama.
URAGA CHANNEL, connecting the gulf with the bay of Yedo, appears
remarkably clear of hidden danger. On its West side are the Plymouth
Rocks, which are always uncovered and easily seen. There are some sunken
rocks close around them.* A shoal of 2 fathoms water is said to lie at a
* Uraga or Reception Bay, on the western side of the entrance, within the Plymouth
Rocks, is remarkable as the place where the American squadron first had communica-
640
YEDO BAY.
little more than half a mile southward of these rocks, but its position and
existence are doubtful. The mariner, however, should bear this in mind,
and, as Kaneda Bay has also some foul ground in it at nearly a mile from
the shore, it would be prudent to give this locality a good berth in passing.
The only hidden danger known is the Elmstone Rock, named after the
master of the merchant vessel who first reported its existence. It was ex-
amined by Commander H. A. Reilly, H.M.S. Pioneer, who found only 10 ft.
on it, from which the East extreme of Kanon saki bore N. by E. ½ E., the
South extreme of the northern shore of Uraga Cove W. & N., and the Ply-
mouth Rocks S. by W. A vessel will pass half a mile eastward of it by
not bringing the Plymouth Rocks southward of S.S.W.
saki lighthouse bears N.N.W.
W., until Kanon
end of Joka sima,
Light.-A light has always been found on the West
the small narrow island lying off Sakura Point, at 3 miles westward of
Cape Sagami. Under the most favourable circumstances it may be visible
from 10 to 15 miles, but being simply a wood fire in an open shed, too much
confidence as to distance should not be placed upon it.
YEDO BAY is about 28 miles deep in a N.E. direction, 20 miles wide at
its broadest part, with excellent holding-ground, and capable of sheltering
the fleets of the world. No danger of any description has been found in it,
except the margin of the bank of fine sand which skirts its shores, and which,
in some parts at the head of the bay, extends off 3 miles from high water
mark, and off Beacon Point on the western shore it is very steep-to; a care-
ful lead, however, will give ample warning. The Saratoga Spit, extending
from the eastern shore is, however, dangerous, and great caution is neces-
sary when passing it. This spit is the termination of Futsu saki, a low sandy
point, on which are three forts and a fishing village. Its South side has not
been yet properly sounded, and it may possibly be steeper to the bank on that
side than the other. There is chow-chow water off its extreme end, generally
in the deep water.
KANON SAKI Light.-The West point of the entrance to Yedo Bay is
Kanon saki. On it is a square stone tower attached to the light-keeper's
dwelling, which shows a bright fixed light from a fourth-order lens appara-
tus. It is elevated 170 feet, and may be seen 14 miles off. It is visible
between the bearings of S. 30° W. to N. 28° W. by the East. The Plymouth
Rocks bear S. by W. † W.
The principal anchorages in Yedo Bay are on its western shore. Susque-
hanna Bay, at 3 miles W.N.W. of Kanon saki, is well sheltered, but as it
contains a number of reefs and rocks, it cannot be recommended. Powhattan
tion with the envoys of the Japanese emperor, July 14, 1853, which led to the treaties
opening the country to foreign commerce. See Narrative of the American Squadron, under
Commodore M. C. Perry, U.S.N., 1866, pp. 266–303.
YOKOHAMA-KANAGAWA.
641
Bay, at 5 miles N.W. by W. of Kanon saki, has good anchorage in 6 to 7
fathoms, and near it are two snug coves in which vessels may conveniently
repair and refit. American Anchorage has depths of 8 to 10 fathoms, with
Perry Island bearing S.S.E., and Webster Island S.W. by S. Both these
islands are wooded.
Mississippi Bay, at 4 miles northward of American Anchorage, is well
sheltered from the prevailing winds. In anchoring give the shore a wide
berth to avoid a shoal which extends half to three-quarters of a mile from
it. Between American Anchorage and Treaty Point the soundings are irre-
gular, shoaling suddenly from 12 to 5 fathoms on banks of hard sand.
YOKOHAMA.—Yokohama Bay is situated to the northward of the ridge
of low hills seen extending into the bay of Yedo, at 10 miles N.N.W. of
Kanon saki. This ridge terminates at the sea in a line of bluffs, 13 mile in
length, from 100 to 120 feet in height, and quite abrupt to the sea, of which
the southern, Treaty Point, is of a conspicuous yellow colour, and the
eastern, Mandarin Bluff, has received the name of Haycock from its shape.
These bluffs, and a bank which fronts them to the distance of three-quarters
of a mile, and which is rather steep-to, protects the anchorage from south-
westerly winds, the only ones which send any sea into the bay.
N.
3
4
The Lightvessel is moored (1870) at the extremity of the shoal water.
She has two masts, with a ball at the foremost head. She shows a fixed red
light at 36 feet. From the lightvessel Treaty Point bears S.W. S., Man-
darin Bluff, S. W. by W., and the Mouth of the Canal W.
An iron buoy, with a cage, has been moored (in 1869) in 4 fathoms on the
northern extreme of the shallow water to the southward of Yokohama an-
chorage, with Mandarin Bluff bearing S. by E. E.; Mouth of the canal
S.W. by S. 1 S.; Centre of the English Hotaba W. by S.
The best anchorage is off the town in 4 to 6 fathoms, over sandy bottom,
with Mandarin Bluff bearing S.S.E., and the landing jetties W.S.W.
Vessels of light draught may, if desirable, take a berth nearer the town.
KANAGAWA.-At the head of the bay, and on its North side, stands the
town of Kanagawa, one of the ports opened by treaty to foreigners; but
this has been changed by general consent to Yokohama on the South side,
owing to its more eligible position for business and communication; the
water also is deeper for anchorage and more convenient for the landing of
boats and merchandise than at Kanagawa, where it is so shallow that at low
tide the sea retreats a considerable distance from the shore.
Kanagawa is subject to frequent shocks of earthquakes. It is situated on
the Tokaido or imperial highway to Yedo. British subjects are free to go
where they please within the following limits-from Kanagawa, 10 ri (20
miles) in any direction except towards Yedo, the boundary in that direction
North Pacific.
2 T
642
YEDO.
being the River Logo, which empties into the bay of Yedo between Kawa
saki and Sinagawa, the southern suburb.
Yokohama is on a plain surrounded by low hills, and is environed by a
canal which entirely isolates it. The only communications are by a bridge
and causeway towards Kanagawa from the rear of the town on the West,
and with the Yokohama Bluffs by another bridge close to the sea. The
residences of the foreign community occupy the East, and those of the Ja-
panese merchants the West of the town. Two stone piers, the ends of which
are protected by a pallisade of wooden piles to break the sea, afford excellent
landing.
All supplies, provisions, water, coal, &c., are to be procured in abundance.
Tides. It is high water, full and change, in Yokohama Bay at 6h, and
springs rise 6 feet, neaps 43 feet. With southerly winds the tide rises
about 2 feet higher.
The streams in this bay are scarcely felt, but they run strong in the middle
of Yedo Bay, and their velocity is much increased off Saratoga Spit, Perry
Island, and Kanon saki, particularly off the latter, round which they sweep
with great rapidity.
YEDO is situated in the north-western corner of Yedo Bay, along the shore
of which it extends, with its suburbs, for 8 miles. Its aspect is not im-
posing, as large stacks of timber and elevated ground conceal by far the
larger part of the city. Five batteries also interpose between the anchorage
and the city. These, with several others on the shore, have green turfed
parapets and escarps faced with stone, and are surrounded by a piling of
timber, which is covered at high water. The suburb of Sinagawa stands
on the South of the city, where are seen the low wooded heights of Goten
yama, 2 miles in extent, along the shore. The landing-place is on the North
side of these, and West of the five forts, close to which is the temple oc-
cupied by the British legation.
This bay is so shoal all along the shore where the city stands, that at low
water even a ship's boat cannot approach within a mile. The best anchorage
for a large ship is in 5 to 6 fathoms, soft mud, good holding-ground, with
the south-western of the five forts bearing N.W.; but recollect that on this
bearing the water shoals rather suddenly from 4 to 24 fathoms. It is better,
therefore, to anchor a smaller vessel on a N.W. by N. bearing of the fort.
H.M.S. Furious, in 1858, anchored in 15 ft. at low water, with the five forts
bearing from N. W. to N.W., Beacon-house S. W., and the peak of
Fusi yama W. ½ N.
DIRECTIONS.-Approaching the Gulf of Yedo from the southward or
westward, in clear weather, the chain of islands running southward from it
are unmistakable landmarks, and Cape Idsu can scarcely be mistaken.
Omae saki, the point 25 miles westward of the cape, is low, while the cape,
as before stated, is high, bold, and rocky. From 1 mile eastward of Rock
DIRECTIONS.
643
Island a N.E. E. course will lead 4 miles north-west of Vries Island,
from which position the centre of the entrance of the Uraga Channel bears
N.E. by E., distant 22 miles. Care, must, however, be observed when
approaching Cape Sagami not to be drawn into Odawara Bay by the in-
draught mentioned in page 637. Should Vries Island be visible this danger
is easily guarded against by not bringing that island southward of S.W.
by S.
Vessels approaching the gulf from the eastward are recommended not to
hug the shore of the South end of Awa too closely, as dangerous shoals are
known to exist in that neighbourhood. By night the fine dioptric light on
No sima will be an efficient guide, but care must be taken of the extremely
dangerous ledge (Mela Ledge), which lies 1 mile off No sima and Mela
Head, about 5 miles S.E. of Su saki. Extending 3 miles from this ledge in
a S.W. direction is a rocky bank in the form of a tongue, with 30 fathoms
on its outer extreme, gradually shoaling to the ledge. These dangers are
steep-to (40 fathoms) on their South side. Heavy breakers occur in rough
weather, or when a swell rolls home, but in smooth water the rocks are not
seen from a distance; the water, however, is so clear, that the bottom is
visible in a considerable depth.
To avoid the Mela Ledge, and all other known danger, when rounding
from the eastward, do not bring the eastern extreme of land seen to bear
eastward of E.N.E. until the extreme of Su saki bears N. by W.; and when
rounding from the westward do not bring the extreme of Su saki westward
of N. by W. until the eastern extreme of land is E.N.E. At night, should
the light not be seen in thick weather, soundings of 40 fathoms may be con-
sidered as indicating close proximity to these dangers.
In steering for the Uraga Channel, the Tree saddle hill on the South end
of Sagami peninsula will be readily recognized; and on nearing the channel
the two small Plymouth Rocks and a beacon* on them will be plainly seen on
its western side. Give these rocks and the Elmstone Rock a berth of half
a mile in passing, and after rounding Kanon saki at the same distance steer
N.N.W., which will lead between the Saratoga Spit and some broken ground
off the small woody island Sului sima (Perry Island). Continue this course
until abreast Graham Bluff, at the South side of Mississippi Bay. From
this position the elevated ground about Mandarin Bluff, at 1 mile northward
of Treaty Point, showing to seaward in brown cliffs well wooded to the
summit, will be readily recognized, the bluff being the most eastern.
* The beacon is made of iron, and surmounted by a spherical red painted cage, the top of
which stands about 23 feet above high-water level. It lies in 2 feet water at low tide, and
is distant 1 cable from the two Plymouth Rocks that stand above water. Kanon Point
Lighthouse bears from it N. 7° 45' E.; the middle of Uki Island, S. 32° 30' E.; and Ka-
naya Point, S. 50° 30′ E.
2 T 2
644
YEDO BAY.
Alter course now to North, and use a careful lead, not shoaling to less
than 7 fathoms when rounding Treaty Point and Mandarin Bluff, neither of
which should be approached to a less distance than a mile. But the extent
of the shoal water is clearly shown by the light-vessel. The lead will
still continue a good guide, the depths gradually decreasing as the anchorage
is approached.
A sailing ship will have to make short tacks when working into Yokohama
Bay with a westerly wind, as North of Mandarin Bluff the deep-water channel
is narrowed to 1 mile; the lead here, however, as is the case round nearly
the whole shores of Yedo Bay, gives fair warning.
If proceeding from Yokohama to Yedo, stand out E. by N. till the house
in the tree clump (of which the roof only is generally seen) of Kawa saki
or Beacon Point bears N.N.E., when haul up N.E. or N.E. E. along the
shore which is skirted by a shallow shelf a mile broad, and very steep at the
edge, on which three beacons or large posts will be seen, taking care not to
decrease the soundings under 9 fathoms till the tree clump or house bears
W. by N. Then haul up N. by E. if in soundings under 8 fathoms, or
North if over 8 fathoms, and anchor in 6 fathoms with the southern part of
the wooded heights of Gotenyama bearing West, and the southern of the
five forts N.W.; or steer in upon the latter bearing, and anchor in any con-
venient depth, aš above.
Working through the Uraga Channel.-With a northerly wind a vessel, after
passing Cape Sagami, may stand across and tack close to the opposite shore,
as there are no rocks at any distance off it to the northward of Kanaya Point,
and to the southward of the point the dangers show. If unable to fetch
this point, it would not be prudent to stand into the bay between the point
and Uki sima, a small rocky island 150 feet high to the southward, as foul
ground exists there. This bay will be readily recognized from a distance,
as it is the sea-shore of a valley between the Miogani yama and Sveno yama
ranges, and two small hills are in the centre of it.
In making the western board, the doubtful shoal South of the Plymouth
Rocks must be remembered (page 639), as well as the foul ground in Kaneda
bay. The shore of Kadsusa Bay, northward of the Miogani yama range,
may be approached by the lead, tacking in 5 fathoms.
If unable to fetch Kanon saki on the starboard board, be careful to tack
short of the bearing for clearing the Elmstone Rock, page 640. Short tacks
should be made when to windward of Kanon saki, not shoaling towards the
opposite or Kadsusa shore to less than 9 fathoms, as the South side of the
Saratoga Spit has not been sounded. When Perry Island (Sului sima) bears
W. by S., stand no further eastward than to bring Kanon saki to bear South,
until Perry Island is S.W. W., when the spit will have been weathered.
Long boards may now be again made, but dɔ not shoal on either tack to less
than 5 fathoms, nor off Yokohama Bluff to less than 7 fathoms. There are
EAST COAST OF NIPON, ETC.
6.15
some shoal patches of 3 to 5 fathoms, sand and mud, off the western side of
the bay between Perry Island and Mississippi Bay, but none are known at
a greater distance off than 2 miles, and they may be avoided by not bringing
Perry Island eastward of South.
EAST COAST OF NIPON.
Vessels bound from the Gulf of Yedo to the eastern entrance of the strait
of Tsugar, will, after passing Su saki and Cape King (Eratatsi) experience
the full force of the current setting them to the E.N.E. The land about
Cape King is high and wooded; the coast in its locality should be given a
good berth, as heavy breakers were seen some distance off shore.
Caution is requisite in doubling Cape Blanco, a bold chalky bluff, as the
American squadron passed over the edge of a reef in 22 fathoms water
S.S.E., distant about 5 miles from this cape, and from the heavy overfalls,
in which fishing-boats were anchored, there must be much less water upon
its shoalest part. As it was near nightfall it was impossible to examine this
reef, but its position is about lat. 35° 8′ N., long. 140° 34′ E., and Cape
Blanco in lat. 35° 13′ N., long. 140° 32′ E.*
୫
From this cape to Tsugar Strait no dangers were seen, nor did the
squadron approach the coast sufficiently near to test the accuracy of the
charts, until arriving off Cape Nambu, the N.E. point of Nipon. From the
northward and eastward, at the distance of 6 or 8 miles, the outline of this
point resembles the back of a sperm whale, with its head to the southward,
the Dodo Rocks, off the point, forming the flukes. On nearing the entrance
of the strait, the water thermometer suddenly fell 15° or 20°, as the squadron
ran from the north-easterly current into the cold current setting through the
strait. From Cape Nambu a N. W. by W. course made good will lead to
Hakodate Head (page 647).
THE STRAIT OF TSUGAR.
The STRAIT of TSUGAR (or Sangar), separating Nipon from Yeso
Island, is about 40 miles in length in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, and
9 miles wide at its narrowest part. The following description is by John
Richards, Master Commanding H.M.S. Saracen, who surveyed the strait in
1855:-
* These positions are doubtful, as the unfavourable weather prevented observations near
them. They are probably 6 or 8 miles too far eastward.
+ The Russian frigate Arkold reports the existence of a reef in lat. 36° 15′ N., long. 141°
28' E.; but this position must be considered as doubtful, as the vessel had no observations
for two days previous to seeing the reef. The Highflyer passed within a mile of it on an
unusually bright moonlight night, and saw nothing.-Edward H. Hills, Master R.N.,
II.M.S. Highflyer, 1859.
616
STRAIT OF TSUGAR.
CAPE GAMALEY or Yokoiso, near the N.W. point of Nipon.-Ap-
proaching the western entrance of Tsugar Strait from the S.W., the Bittern
Rocks, described hereafter, will be seen lying W. by S. about 16 miles from
Gamaley. The land about this cape is moderately elevated and level. The
coast between it and Oho saki, to the northward, is low and sandy. Be-
tween Sasagota Bay and Oho saki the coast is safe of approach, having
regular soundings, and fair anchorage in N.E. winds.
Oho Saki or Cape Greig, is remarkable from its peculiar form, and
being the commencement of the high land extending to Tatsupi saki, which
bears from it N.N.W. W., 8 miles. The bay between these points,
although containing much foul ground, may be useful to a vessel not able to
get through the straight during an easterly gale. The bottom of the bay is
very foul.
TATSUPI SAKI or Cape Tsugar, the South point of western entrance to
Tsugar Strait, is a bluff, 362 feet high, from whence the land rises to the
height of 2,200 feet, at the distance of 4 miles inland. A large rock, 300 ft.
high, lies 2 cables N.E. of the cape, and is connected to it by a low neck of
sand and stones. On a N.W. and S.E. bearing this rock makes like an
island. The cape is steep-to, but the strong eddies near it make it prudent
not to approach it nearer than a mile.
Gun Cliff, at 91 miles E. by S. S. from Tatsupi saki, is steep-to, and
has a battery of six guns on its apex, which is 200 feet high. In the bay
between these points, off the town of Memoyah, about half a mile from the
shore, there is capital anchorage in 8 fathoms, indeed the best in the strait
next to Hakodadi.
From the South point of this coast a steep cliffy shore, with deep water
close to, trends 25 miles to the northward, nearly in a straight line to Toriwi
saki. The cliffs are coloured with the most brilliant and varied tints, and,
like the entire coasts of the strait, are of basaltic formation. Among the
most remarkable are the Red Cliffs, rising to the height of 1,600 feet, at 17
miles southward of Toriwi saki. At 9 miles further to the northward are
two remarkable pointed cliffs, named Double Head. Nearly 2 miles to the
S.W. of this head is a rock 42 feet high; and North about 3 cables from this
is a rock awash at low water.
TORIWI SAKI, the northern point of Nipon, is a low tapering point, off
which, at the distance of a cable, is Low Islet or Omaski sima, 40 feet high.
The ground all around this cape and islet is very foul.* There is a tide
* It was stated that the anchorage (which was recommended) to the N.E. of the cape
was clear of rocks, but the P. and O. Company's steam-ship Singapore, on her voyage from
Yokohama to Hakodadi, on the 20th September, 1867, struck on a rock, off Toriwi saki.
This rock, named the Singapore Rock, is said to lie N. by E. E., distant 2 miles from
Low Island, or 3 miles N. by E. from Toriwi saki.
SIRIYA SAKI-HAKODATE HEAD.
647
race, near the full and change of the moon, 3 miles North of Low Islet, and
heavy overfalls with a N.E. swell.
SIRIYA SAKI or Cape Nambu.-From Low Islet the coast to the east-
ward is foul for about 3 miles, after which it may be approached without
fear. At 10 miles from Low Islet is a remarkable red cliff, which shows
well to the westward; and at 2 miles westward of this cliff is a high sharp
bluff, and a high round bluff 2 miles to the eastward.
From the latter bluff the coast is low to within 4 miles of Siriya saki, or
Cape Nambu, where it rises to 1,265 feet, and descends again towards the
cape in a gentle slope, making at a distance like an island. There is good
anchorage in the deep bay between this cape and the red cliff, but the best
is on its western side, abreast the coast-line where the high and low land
meet, in 15 fathoms. Off the cape, at the distance of 3 cables, is a small
white rock 70 feet high.
There is also another rock, rather larger, lying a
cable off shore, at 2 miles S.W. of the cape.
The Rattler Rock.-Comm. J W. Webb, of H.M.S. Rattler, discovered a
dangerous rock, awash at low water, which lies E. by N., distant three-
quarters of a mile from the white islet or rock North of Siriya saki or Cape
Nambu, the N.E. point of Nipon.
CAPE YESAN or Esarmi, on the South coast of Yeso, is the North point
of eastern entrance to Tsugar Strait, and the East extreme of a bold promon-
tory, with several remarkable dome-shaped mountains in the rear. The cape
itself is a steep cliff, about 600 feet high; the volcano immediately above it
is 1,935 feet high, and frequently capped with a light cloud of steam, but
not otherwise active.
3
At 82 miles S.W. by W. of Cape Yesan, is Conical Islet, 200 ft. high, lying
close to the coast. There is a dangerous low point 1 mile to the westward;
and at 23 miles to the eastward is Foul Point, which is low, and has a dan-
gerous reef extending 2 cables from it.
4
CAPE SIWOKUBI or Blunt, bears W. S. 24 miles from Conical Islet,
E. by S. 12 miles from Hakodadi Head, and N. by E. 2 E. 9 miles from
Low Islet, which is the narrowest part of the strait. This cape is steep-to,
and the N.E. current frequently runs with greater strength close to the
rocks than out in the stream. The summit of the bluff immediately above
the cape is 1,022 feet high; from thence the high land ranges in towards
the Saddle Mountain. The coast for about 7 miles to the westward is a
level plain of an average elevation of 200 or 300 feet; beyond 7 miles, it
descends to the low beach connecting the high land of Hakodate IIead with
the main.
HAKODATE HEAD is the South extreme of a bold peaked promontory,
1,136 ft. high, standing well out from the high land of the main, with which
it is connected by a low sandy isthmus. The head is steep and precipitous,
and safe of approach. At 43 miles West of the head is Mussell Point, off
648
STRAIT OF TSUGAR.
which a reef extends 2 cables, and is steep-to. The coast from thence to
Cape Saraki, at 44 miles to the S.W., is level, but fringed with rocks, and
requires caution in approaching. To the westward of the cape the shore is
low, with a sandy beach safe of approach, and clean ground for anchorage
to within 3 miles of Cape Tsiuka.
HAKODATE or HAKODADI HARBOUR.-The port of Hakodate or
Hakodadi, on the North side of Tsugar Strait, is situated at the foot of the
northern slope of a high peninsula, which is connected with the mainland
of Yeso by a low sandy isthmus. It is an excellent roadstead, 4 miles wide
and 5 miles deep, and, for accessibility and safety, is one of the finest in the
world. Its entrance is between Hakodate Head and Mussell Point, which
bear East and West of each other, distant 43 miles. The harbour is in the
south-eastern arm of the bay, and is completely sheltered.
This excellent port is one thrown open to American commerce by the treaty
procured by Commodore Perry, U.S.N., March 31, 1854. The town lies on
the southern coast of the Island of Yeso, on the western side of a small
peninsula which forms one side of the harbour. The appearance of the
place is striking and picturesque, and in its position, general aspect, and
many particulars, resembles Gibraltar.* The town, containing 1,000 houses,
and from 6,000 to 8,000 inhabitants, stretches for about 3 miles along the
hase of a lofty promontory, divided into three principal peaks of from 600 to
1,000 feet in height, whose bare summits are often covered with snow. An
excellent road connects it with Matsmai. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged
in commerce and the fisheries, and carry on a large trade with the interior. †
* The town contains over a thousand houses, which mostly stretch along in one main
thoroughfare near the seaside, while the remainder, forming two or three parallel streets,
hang upon the ascent of the hill in the rear. Every one on board the ships who had
visited Gibraltar was struck with the resemblance of Hakodadi, from its position and
general aspect, to that famous fortified town. There was the isolated hill, on the base and
acclivity of which the houses were built, corresponding to the rock of Gibraltar; there was
the low neck of land reaching to the elevated region beyond, like the neutral ground which
separates the English fortress from the Spanish territory, and a receding country and
capacious bay surrounding Hakodadi, as well as Gibraltar, to strengthen the resemblance
between the two. Moreover, the position of the Japanese town on the Strait of Tsugar
(Sangar), with the high land of Nipon and its towns of Say and Mimaga at the South, like
that of Gibraltar, overlooking the narrow channel which connects the Atlantic and Medi-
terranean, and commands the opposite and elevated coast of Africa, with the towns of
Tangier and Ceuta clothing its heights, served to confirm the similarity of features with
which every one whose travelled experience allowed of comparison was greatly impressed.
-(U.S. Japan Expedition, p. 506.)
+ Hakodate belongs to the Imperial fief of Matsmai, and, with the exception of that
town, is the largest on the island. It is 30 miles East of Matsmai, and they are connected
by an excellent road.
;
HAKODATE OR HAKODADI HARBOUR.
649
More than a thousand junks are occasionally seen at one time at anchor in
the harbour.
Supplies. Water can be easily obtained from Kamida Creek, which
enters the harbour to the northward and eastward of the town, but the
operation is attended with danger to the boats, which have to be dragged
over the bar of the river. The Japanese supply fresh water in their own
boats at a very moderate rate. A supply of wood and water may also be
ordered through the Custom-house, at the bazaar, or from the American
agents residing at Hakodate.
The seine supplied the American squadron in 1854 with fine salmon and
a quantity of other fish, and the shores of the bay abound with excellent
shell-fish. Beef, potatoes, sweet potatoes, fowls and eggs, and all neces-
saries can be procured. For large supplies of provisions, masters of ships
should have recourse to the American agents. Vessels, even when seriously
damaged, can undergo repairs in the harbour, there being no scarcity of
materials for this purpose. Timber of any dimensions can be procured,
though not in great quantity; its price is very moderate. Expert and in-
telligent Japanese carpenters and efficient blacksmiths are also procurable.
There is no want of coopers, but, owing to the scarcity of iron, they use
bamboo for hoops.
There is a brass and iron foundry, though worked on a limited scale.
No copper sheathing can be obtained; the native sheet copper is very thin
and small in size. Ships' boats can be repaired or constructed by the Japa-
nese in a very skilful manner from drawings.
Merchant vessels entering the port are subject to the Custom-house regu-
lations. Coal, of very inferior quality, is also procurable.
Pilots.-Vessels entering the bay are boarded by pilots who charge five
Mexican dollars, without any distinction as to the size of the ship. There
are no special harbour regulations.
TIDES.—It is high water, full and change, in this harbour at 5h 0m, and
the extreme rise and fall of tide is 3 feet.
Lightvessel. Since October, 1865, a lightship has been moored in Hako-
date. The vessel exhibits a fixed white light. Elevation, 21 feet above the
sea; and visible 5 miles. She has one mast, carries a red ball during the
day, and is moored in 6 fathoms water at the extremity of the bank, extend-
ing in a northerly direction from the peninsula of Hakodate.
The approximate position is lat. 41° 47′ 30″ N., long. 140° 44′ 39" E. of
Greenwich.
Approaching from the eastward, after passing Cape Suwo Kubi, named
by the Americans Cape Blunt, which is a conspicuous headland 12 miles
E.S.E. E. from the town, the junks at anchor in the harbour will be visi-
ble over the low isthmus.
Rounding the promontory of Hakodate, and giving it a berth of a mile,
650
HAKODATE OR HAKODADI.
to avoid the calms under the high land, steer for the sharp peak of Komaga-
daki, bearing about North, until the East peak of the Saddle, bearing about
N.E. by N., opens to the westward of the round knob on the side of the
mountain; then haul up to the northward and eastward, keeping them open
until the centre of the sand-hills on the isthmus bears S.E. by E. 2 E. (these
may be recognized by the dark knolls upon them.) This will clear the spit
which makes out from the western point of the town in a north-northwesterly
direction two-thirds of a mile; then bring the sand-hills a point on the port
bow, and stand in until the western point of the town bears S.W. W.,
when you will have the best berth, with 5 or 6 fathoms water. If it is
desirable to get nearer in, haul up a little to the eastward of South for the
low rocky peak, which will be just visible over the sloping ridge to the
southward and eastward of the town. A vessel of moderate draught may
approach within a quarter of a mile of Tsuki Point, where there is a
building-yard for junks. This portion of the harbour, however, is generally
crowded with vessels of this description; and unless the want of repairs, or
some other cause, renders a close berth necessary, it is better to remain
outside.
If the peak or saddle is obscured by clouds or fogs, after doubling the
promontory, steer N.N.E., until the sand-hills are brought upon the bearing
above given, when proceed as there directed.
A short distance from the tail of the spit is a detached sand-bank, with
3 fathoms on it, the outer edge of which is marked by a white spar-buoy.
Between this and the spit there is a narrow channel with 4 and 5 fathoms
water. Vessels may pass on either side of the buoy, but it is most prudent
to go to the northward of it.
Should the wind fail before reaching the harbour, there is a good anchor-
age in the outer roads, in from 25 to 10 fathoms.
At night, many captains of vessels are in favour of a northerly course
being steered on entering Hakodate Bay to a depth of 7 fathoms, and keep-
ing in that depth on an easterly and south-easterly course, by which means
the spit will be safely rounded.
* These directions were drawn up, of course, before the lightvessel, at the North end of
the spit, was established. However, should she not be on her station, the following notes
will be useful. The north-east end of the fir-trees in line with the Joss-house clears the
eastern side in 5 fathoms water; and the foot of the hill in line with the middle of the
sandy point leads along the northern side of the shoal.-Captain K. Stewart, H.M.S.
Nankin, 1855.
If these leading marks should be in the clouds, as they generally are, keep the western
extreme of the promontory of Hakodate bearing South or S. W., which will clear the spit,
and haul to the eastward when the centre of the sand-hills on the isthmus bears S.E. by
E. E.-Commodore the Hon. C. Elliot, H.M.S. Sybille, 1855.
CAPE TSUIKA-CAPE SIRAKAMI.
651
CAPE TSIUKA, at 11 miles S.S.W. of Cape Saraki, is a high cliffy point,
which may be further known by three rocks extending a quarter of a mile
from a point 1 mile north-eastward of it. The outer rock of the three is of
a conical form and 70 feet high. The land to the westward for 4 miles is
high and cliffy; about half way between the cape and the end of the cliffs
there are two waterfalls.
Vessels can anchor in the bight of the bay, between Capes Tsiuka and
Sirakami; but as a southerly wind on the western tide sends in a cross
swell, it would not be prudent to anchor far in. The position is in 15 to 20
fathoms, with the southern white cliff bearing West about a mile.
CAPE SIRAKAMI or Nadiejda, the North point of western entrance to
Tsugar Strait, is a high bluff, similar to Cape Siwokubi, but not so safe of
approach. The coast, for more than a mile on each side of the cape, is
bordered with numerous rocks, generally above water, some of which run
off nearly 2 cables. As it is not known whether the dangers extend under
water beyond this distance, it will be prudent to give the cape a good berth
in passing.
From Cape Sirakami the coast trends W. by N. 1 N. 5 miles to Cape
Matsumae, which is low, and off it is a conical islet, with a small temple or
building on it. The bay between is very rocky, excepting off the East end
of the city of Matsumae, where there is good anchorage in 12 fathoms at
half a mile off shore; but this anchorage would, of course, be unsafe in
southerly winds.
Currents and Tides.-During the survey of Tsugar Strait by the Saracen,
in June, July, and August, 1855, a constant N.E. current set through the
middle of the strait, the breadth of which varied considerably according to
the state of the wind and weather. Before and during a N.E. wind its
strength was much diminished; but with the wind from the opposite direc-
tion, it would expand and fill up two-thirds of the channel against the
strength of the western tide.
The tide in the stream ran about 12 hours each way near the full and
change of the moon, and there were only two regular tides by the shore in
24 hours. At full and change, the flood or eastern stream made at Tatsupi
saki at 6h 30m a.m., at 7h at Cape Tsiuka, and at 7h 30m at Toriwi saki. The
western stream began about 12 hours later. The turn of the stream takes
place 1 hour later every day nearly.
C. Pemberton Hodgson, Esq., H.M. Consul at Hakodate, who interested
himself to collect information on the subject, writes:- "The tides set with
terrific force from the Pacific and Japan Sea; coming from the S.E. and
E.S.E. on the one side, and from the West, S. W., and N. W. on the other,
they meet in the very middle of the strait. From any high land an observer
may see such fearful concussions of the two tides, each running from 3 to 5
miles an hour, and such heavy breaking overfalls, that he may wonder how
652
STRAIT OF TSUGAR.
a ship can, even with a fair wind, face them; and with comparative alarm,
how, with a contrary wind, a vessel can beat against them.”
KO SIMA lies W. S. 16 miles from Cape Sirakami, the N.W. point of
entrance to the strait of Tsugar. It has a round peak, 974 feet high, and
there are two remarkable sugar-loaf islets or rocks lying off its West end.
It is an excellent mark for Tsugar Strait.
U SIMA, or Ohosima, 2,800 feet high, bears N.W. by W. W. 18 miles
from Ko sima.
OKOSIRI ISLAND lies off the S.W. coast of Yeso. The South extreme
is low, and detached rocks lie about 2 miles S. of it. Some of these rocks are
10 to 15 feet above water, and apparently a reef connects them with the
island. The eastern side of the island is steep-to. The N.E. point of the
island appeared from a distance to have a rocky ledge running out a short
distance from it. On the Yeso side of the channel the land is high, and the
coast apparently bold-to.
DIRECTIONS.-Sailing vessels approaching Tsugar Strait from the west-
ward during foggy weather should guard against being carried by the cur-
rent to the northward past the entrance. Should the weather be clear when
nearing Cape Gamaley, it may be as well to sight it; but if doubtful, shape
a course (allowing for the probable current) direct for Cape Greig. Should
a fog come on suddenly when nearing this cape, recollect that the coast is
clear and sandy, and the soundings are regular to the southward, but rocky
with irregular soundings to the northward of it. The cape is steep-to, and,
standing out prominently from the coast-line, forms a good land-mark.
No particular directions are required in passing through this strait to the
eastward, as there are no hidden dangers, and the north-easterly current
will always be found strongest in the middle of the stream.
Approaching the strait from the eastward, steer for Cape Nambu, and
endeavour to make it on a N.W. bearing. Pass the cape at about a mile
distant, then haul in to avoid the current and to anchor, should it fall calm.
In this case, by keeping this shore close aboard, the vessel may probably be
drifted up to Low Islet, off Toriwi saki, by the western stream, when the
N.E. current is running like a mill-stream in mid-channel.
At the anchorage off Low Islet the vessel must wait a favourable oppor-
tunity for crossing the strait. Pass about half a mile from Low Islet, and
in crossing the current, take care not to be set to leeward of Hakodate.
Proceeding from Hakodate to the westward against S.W. winds, keep
well inside Cape Tsiuka, and if unable to round it, anchor with the stream
or kedge about 2 miles to the N.E., weighing again when the next western
tide makes. Should the wind be very light, a vessel may not clear the
strait in one tide; in this case it will be better to wait a tide to the eastward
of Cape Sirakami, and take the whole of the following tide to clear the
strait, than run any risk of being swept into the strait again by the current.
زه
ISLAND OF YESO.
653
Vessels passing through the strait, particularly to the westward, should have
a good kedge and 150 fathoms of hawser ready for immediate use, and must
keep the land close aboard.
ISLAND OF YESO.
This island, in its time, has been the object of much geographical discus-
sion and criticism. The Dutch commander De Vries, was the first to give a
distinct notion of its existence and general character to the world. Subse-
quently the detailed researches made in the years 1787 and 1797, by La
Pérouse and Captain Broughton, and then the voyage of the Nadiéjeda, by
Captain Krusenstern, in 1805, cleared up all doubts on the subject, so that,
with the exception of the North coast, its geography is known.
At the time of the first Japanese establishment in the island, the inhabit-
ants, according to Golownin, called themselves Einso, from which word the
names Yeso, Jesso, Aino, and Insu, are derived.
The name of Yeso, or Jesso, has been adopted by most recent authors,
because it is that by which it is most generally known by Europeans, al-
though the name Aïno is, beyond doubt, that given to the original inhabit-
ants of the island.
Our present knowledge of the island is chiefly drawn from the notices of
its original discovery in the Dutch ships Castricum and Breskes, under Capt.
De Vries, in 1643, from that of Laxman in 1792, from Captain Broughton
in 1796, and from Captain Rikord, of the Russian navy, in the corvette
Diana. The northern coast has not been visited, but is copied from the Ja-
panese representations. All the western coast, with the gulfs, bays, and
islands in its neighbourhood, are exhibited from the observations of Capt. Kru-
senstern in 1805. The Strait of Tsugar and Hakodate, the port thrown open
to the commercial ports by the American treaty of 1854, have been surveyed
surveyed by British and American officers, and have just been described.
The Island of Yeso is of a triangular form, the sides of which are 100,
85, and 73 leagues in length. The three extremities of this triangle are.
Cape Soya, the North point of the island, in lat. 45° 31′ 15″ N., long. 141°
51' E.; Cape Serakami or Nadiéjeda, the South point, in lat. 41° 25′ 10″ N.,
long. 140° 9′ 30″ E.; and Cape Nossyam or Broughton, its eastern extreme,
in lat. 43° 38′ 30″ N., long. 146° 7′ 30″ E.
Yeso is separated from the Kurile Islands on the S.E. by a strait, named
by Krusenstern the Strait of Yeso, which is about 8 miles broad in the
narrowest part, that is, opposite the S.W. point of the island of Kunasiri.
This part of the coast has not been yet surveyed. All that is known of it
is that it forms a deep bay, and that the extremity of Kunasiri advances
very far into this bay, so that the eastern cape of Yeso entirely hides the
strait which separates the two islands, from which cause those navigators
654
ISLAND OF YESO.
who have sailed along here have taken Kunasiri and Yeso to be but one
island, an error which had been followed by nearly all geographers.
CAPE BROUGHTON,* or Nossyam, the eastern cape of Yeso, according
to the observations of the commander whose name it now bears, lies S. 65°
W., 10 leagues distant from the Island of Chikotan; lat. 43° 38′ N., long.
146° 7 E. It forms the extremity of a tongue of land of 10 miles in length
surrounded by rocks and islets.
Port Nemoro is on the inner side of the tongue of land, at 6 miles to the
W.S.W. from its extreme. Laxman anchored here in the Elizabeth, and
found a Japanese establishment.
The strait separating Yeso from Chikotan is 10 leagues in length, but it
is much contracted by rocks and breakers, which occupy an extent of 20
miles, so that, to pass through this strait, the only safe channel is between
Walvis and Tchikotan Islands.
Cape Siretoko or Spanberg, a name also applied by Admiral Krusenstern
in honour of the first Russian navigator who visited these parts, lies in lat.
44° 35', long. 145° 0'.
نه
Cape Broughton, and another cape lying 13 miles N. 60° W. from it, form
the two extremities of a bay which Krusenstern has named Laxman Bay,
in which is found Port Fureck, 7 miles to the S.W. of Nemoro. Near the
N.W. point of this bay there is another port, named Notsky,
the position of
which is somewhere about lat. 43° 45′ N., long. 145° 52′ E. Port Atkis
lies S.W. W. 38 miles from Cape Broughton, in about lat. 43° 20′ N.,
144
lon.
145° 30'.
Between Atkis and Cape Broughton, Laxman places several islands near
the land, one of which is before the entrance to Port Atkis, and two others
joined by a reef called Rikimushiri and Chigab, at 7 miles N.E. of this
entrance. The two Eroro Islands are 12 miles farther in the same direction.
At 4 miles S. W. from Cape Broughton are two others, named Imoshiri and
Somoshiri.
The Bay of Good Hope, according to Jansen's chart, lies to the S.W. of
Atkis. It is deep, but its mouth is narrowed by breakers, extending off both
points of the entrance. The soundings throughout vary from 5 to 16 and
17 fathoms. A projecting point, called Cape Swars, is on the right side
of the bay, and forms the entrance of the inner bay. The eastern point of
the bay is called Cape Matsuyker, in lat. 43° 0′ N.
Cape Eroen or Evosn, the S.E. extremity of Yeso, is very imperfectly known
and placed on the charts. It may be in lat. 41° 59′ N., long. 142° 55′ E.
* Admiral Krusenstern says:-"In honour of the English navigator who has, with a
slight exception, made the circuit of the Coasts of Yeso, and first determined the geogra-
phical position of its eastern extremity, I have named it Cape Broughton."
VOLCANO BAY.
655
VOLCANO BAY is to the northward of Hakodate, on the eastern side
of the peninsula. It was visited and named by Broughton in Sept., 1796,
and it was surveyed by the U.S.S. Southampton, one of the American expe-
dition, in May, 1854.-(See Narrative, pp. 535-540.) They generally con-
firmed the description by Broughton, who thus speaks of it:-"I have seen
few lands that bear a finer aspect than the northern side of Volcano Bay.
The entrance into this extensive bay is formed by the land making the
harbour, which the natives call Endermo, and the South point, which they
call Esarmi. They bear from each other N. 17° W. and S. 17° E. 11 leagues.
There are no less than three volcanoes in the bay, which induced me to call
it by that name. * There are 50 fathoms of water in the centre, and the
soundings decrease on the approach to either shore. During our stay at the
period of the equinoxes, we experienced generally very fine weather, with
gentle land and sea winds from the N.E. and S.E., and no swell to prevent
a ship riding in safety, even in the bay, and the harbour of Endermo is per-
fectly sheltered from all bad weather.
Endermo Harbour, on the western side of the North point, affords good
shelter from all winds, bringing the bluff on the extreme part of the isthmus,
which forms the starboard point in coming in to bear N.W. In this situa-
tion we found 4 or 5 fathoms; and the port entry point on the North shore
was on with the bluff. In running for the harbour, the island must be kept
open with the starboard entry point till within half a mile of a small islet
(which is only so at half tide), and then you must steer in to the S. W., when
the water will be shoaled, and any berth taken you may prefer. The sound-
ings gradually decrease from 10 to 2 fathoms, soft bottom. A few houses
were scattered on the South side of the harbour: and towards the head the
shores are low and flat, so much so as to prevent boats landing within 100
yards. In all other parts wood and water are procured with the utmost con-
venience. The small island was named Hans Olason Island, from one of
Broughton's seamen who was buried there. The harbour is formed by the
apparent island, which is an extensive peninsula, of a circular figure. Lat.
of Cape Yetomo at the entrance, 42° 21′ N., long. 140° 56′ 30″ E. High
water, full and change, 5h 30m; rise and fall, 6 feet."
The U.S. expedition found a Japanese settlement in the harbour; the
officials here received them in a friendly manner, and had carefully preserved
the grave of Broughton's seaman.
The STRAIT of TSUGAR and the treaty port of Hakodate, have been be-
fore described.
Cape Sirakami or Nadiejda, the S.W. point of Yeso, which has been
before mentioned, was observed with great precision by Capt. Krusenstern
* These volcanoes, one especially, was in action in May, 1854.
656
ISLAND OF YESO.
to be in lat. 41° 25′ 10″ N., long. 140° 9′ 30″ E. It therefore forms the N.W.
point of the entrance to the Strait of Tsugar; the opposite point, on Nipon,
being Cape Tsugar, which is in lat. 41° 16' 30", long. 140° 14' E., so that the
strait is here 9 miles broad.
The two islands, O-sima and Ko-sima, are only black, rocky mountains, of
volcanic origin. In coming from the North, there would not be a better
guide for entering the strait than by bringing Ko-sima exactly before its
entrance. O-sima is of a round form, in lat. 41° 31′ 30″, long. 139° 19′ 15″,
6 miles in circumference. The other is long, and 10 miles in circuit, lying in
lat. 41° 21′ 30″, long. 139° 46′. A high rock lies some distance to the North
of the latter.
MATSUMAE, or Matsmai, the capital of the Island of Yeso, lies in a bay
of the same name to the N.W. of Cape Nadiejeda. The two capes forming
this bay lie N. 70° W. and S. 70° E. from each other 4 leagues apart. The
northernmost, Cape Matsumae, in in lat. 41° 25′, long. 140° 7′ 20″. The city
of Matsumae is directly to the East of this cape, 7 miles distant, that is, in
lat. 41° 30′, lòng. 140° 14'. According to Broughton, a small island, appa-
rently joined to the land by reefs, lies near its N.W. point. On it he per-
ceived a small building, perhaps a guardhouse.
Cape Sineko is to the N.W. of Cape Matsumae, in lat. 41° 39′ 30", long.
140° 4′ 15″, according to Captain Krusenstern's observations. At 40 miles
N. 8° W. from it is Cape Oote Nizavou of the Japanese charts; this also was
determined by Captain Krusenstern; lat. 42° 18′ 10″, long. 139° 56′. To
the S.E. of it is the Island of Okosiri, mentioned on page 652, distant 12
miles from the coast. It is 11 miles long, in a N.N.E. E. and S.S.W. 3
W. direction.
4
Cape Kutusoff is in lat. 42° 38', long. 139° 56′. It lies to the northward
of Cape Oote Nizavou, and is remarkable for a high mountain, the position
of which is lat 42° 38′ N. and 140° 1' E. Between these two capes is Kutusoff
Bay.
Sukhtelen Bay is formed to the South by Cape Kutusoff, and to the North
by Cape Novosilzov, in lat. 43° 14′ 30″, long. 140° 25′ 30″. It projects
into the sea more than 20 miles in a North and South direction. The bay
is only separated from Volcano Bay on the South side by an isthmus 20 miles
in breadth.
Strogonoff Bay lies to the northward of Cape Novosilzov. It was thus
named by Capt. Krusenstern in 1805, and is 12 leagues in depth from N.W.
to S.E., by 14 leagues from Cape Novosilzov to Cape Malaspina, in lat. 43°
42′ 51", long. 141° 28' 30".
To the N.E. of this latter cape is Peak or Mount Pallas, in lat. 44° 0′ N.,
long. 142° 4′ E. This will point out the position of a bay with low shores,
which lies between Capes Malespina and Schischkoff. This is lat. 44° 20′,
long. 141° 47'.
THE WEST COAST OF NIPON.
657
Off this latter cape are two small islets, Teurire and Yanikessery, lying 12
miles N.W. of the cape.
CAPE NOSYAB or Romanzoff is the N.W. extremity of Yeso; it was
thus named by Krusenstern, and is placed by him in lat. 45° 25′ 5", long.
141° 44′ 20″. A narrow and low tongue of land extends nearly a mile to the
N.W. from this point. There is a large bay between Cape Romanzoff and
another lying N. 62° E. 14 miles distant, called Soya by the inhabitants.
The Nadiéjeda, Capt. Krusenstern's ship, anchored in this bay, which also
received the name of Romanzoff, at the entrance of a small bay in the
southern part of the greater bay, at 2 miles from the nearest shore, in 9
fathoms, an excellent bottom of fine sand and mud.
Near to Cape Romanzoff are two islands, mentioned on page 578, Refunsiri
and Risiri. The first is the Cape Guibert, and the second the Pic de
Langle, of La Pérouse, who thought that both formed part of Yeso. The
Pic de Langle, according to Captain Krusenstern's observations, is in lat.
45° 11′ N., long. 141° 12′ 15″ E., and is probably the mountain which the
Dutch called Blyde Berg.
Cape Guibert, that is, the N.E. point of Refunsiri, is in lat. 45° 27′ 45″ N.,
long. 141° 0′ E. It is high in the centre, and extends 12 miles in a N. by
E. and S. by W. direction. A dangerous rock, with only 8 feet water over
it, lies about 9 or 10 miles northward of Refunsiri.
The Barrick Rock is reported to lie 12 miles West of Refunsiri, lat. 45°
42', long. 140° 42′ E.
Cape Soya is the northern point of Yeso, and forms the narrowest part of
La Pérouse Strait. A reef, awash, lies 7 or 8 miles E.S.E. of it.
The Strait of La Pérouse, which separates Yeso from Saghalin, has been
before noticed.
THE WEST COAST OF NIPON.
The West coast of Nipon is but little known, and should therefore be
navigated with necessary prudence and caution. The only parts at present
surveyed are the islands Sado, Awa sima, and Tabu sima, and the strait
between Sado and Niëgata, by H.M. ships Actæon and Dove, in 1859. The
coast from Tsugar Strait (page 645) to Cape Noto has been partially ex-
plored by the Bittern and other of H.M. ships, the Russian gun vessel Djigit,
and H.M. surveying vessel Saracen. The latter vessel has also explored the
coast between Cape Louisa (lat. 34° 40′ N.) and the western entrance of the
Inland Sea.
The coast between Sado and Cape Louisa does not appear ever to have
been sighted by European ships; its coast line has been taken from the
Japanese manuscript, and may, with the exception of possible dangers off
it, be regarded as accurately delineated.
North Pacific.
2 U
658
THE WEST COAST OF NIPON.
BITTERN ROCKS.-This group of three small rocks, two above water
and one awash, was discovered by H.M.S. Bittern, 8th July, 1855. They
lie close together, within the space of two cables, steep-to on their western
side, having 15 and 17 fathoms at the distance of 2 cables, and no bottom
with 140 fathoms at 13 miles. The face of the rocks was covered with seals,
which were with difficulty dislodged.
The south-western or largest rock, in lat. 40° 31′ N., long. 139° 31′ E.,
and lying W. by S. about 15 or 17 miles from Cape Gamaley, is about 18
feet high, and in size and appearance resembles the hull of a vessel of about
200 tons.
Tabu Sima (Observatory Rock off the East extreme of which is in lat.
39° 11′ 53″ N., long. 139° 34′ 17″ E.), is in shape somewhat of a horseshoe,
with a club at its N.E. end. It is on top nearly a flat, varying from
120 to 150 feet in height. Its greatest length is 1 mile N.E. and S.W.,
and its widest part, the N.E. end, is not quite a mile across. No supplies
could be obtained, except a few fish. Springs of excellent water abound.
The Acteon anchored in 25 fathoms off the bay on the S.E. side, with the
South extreme of the island bearing S. W. by W. W., and Observatory
Rock N.N.E. The Russian gun-vessel Djigit anchored in the same bay in 9
fathoms over a coral bottom. It affords shelter from all winds prevalent in
the Japan Sea.
Awa Sima, the N.E. extreme of which is in lat. 38° 29′ 36″ N., long.
139° 16′ 7″ E., is a narrow strip of land running N.N.E. and S.S.W., and
reaching at its southern extreme an elevation of 680 feet. It is 3 mile in
length, and nearly a mile in breadth, the widest part being in the centre,
where, on the East shore, is a fishing village, while another stands at the
South end of the other shore, in a small bay protected by a natural break-
The inhabitants were, as well as at Tabu sima, very civil. Nothing
but fish could be obtained.
water.
SADO ISLAND, lying 25 miles westward of the important trading port
of Niëgata, is 334 miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., nearly 17 at its widest
part, and is composed of two parallel mountain ranges lying N.W. and S.E.
of each other, the neck of land joining them being a plain, on the N.E. and
S.W. sides of which are formed two extensive open bays. A remarkable
sharp conical hill, 700 feet high, stands on a flat off the North extreme of
the island, and from a distance looks like an isolated rock. To the north-
ward of this are a few detached rocks close to the shore, and one off Ya saki
or Wa saki, the north-eastern point of the island, which is in lat. 38° 19′ 55″
N., long. 138° 27′ 9″ E.
This latter point rises somewhat abruptly, and gains an elevation of 3,800
feet, from which the land, descending slightly, runs in rocky ridges to the
S.S.W. for 10 miles, and terminates in a sharp nipple of 4,500 feet eleva-
tion, whence it descends in a gentle uniform slope to the southward. The
NIEGATA
659
West point of the island has a bold, clean shore, whence the coast recedes
round Sawa-umi Bay to the S.E., and is low. There are numerous fishing
villages along the western shores, and a few boat harbours were seen.
Anchorage. If Niegata should be opened to European trade, no vessel
except a powerful steamer could, during the autumn or winter months, re-
main at anchor off that port, as gales of wind commencing at S.W., and
veering to N.W. rapidly succeed each other, and send in such a heavy sea
that no ground tackle could be depended upon, and the holding ground is
very indifferent.
Under these circumstances, the most prudent course to
adopt would be to anchor under shelter of Sado, and have the cargo trans-
ported from Niëgata in junks or light draught steamers.
The bend in the coast line on the N.E. side of the island forms an exten-
sive bay called Minato-mats, which affords anchorage in 12 to 16 fathoms,
sheltered from E. by S. (round South and West) to North. A continuous
rock, 60 feet high, called Siza, marks Okawa Point, the South extreme of
this bay, in which no known dangers exist. At the head of the bay is the
town of lbesso or Yebisu.
Another eligible anchorage will be found off Oda village, a quarter of a
mile S.S.W. of Matsu saki, a low projecting tongue of shingle, bearing
S.S.W. W. distant 10 miles from Okawa Point.
A few fowls, some fish, and vegetables were obtained by the Actæon during
her stay at Sado. Firewood may be obtained, but it is supposed not in suffi-
cient quantities for steaming purposes. Nearly every little valley has its
stream of excellent water flowing down to the beach. Coal is not known.
NIEGATA.—This was one of the treaty ports to be opened on January 1,
1861, but this has not been hitherto carried out. The city of Niëgata stands
on the left bank of, for Japan, a rather large river, with 4 fathoms water
within the entrance; but a bar off the entrance seals it to vessels of greater
draught than 7 or 8 feet. In fresh breezes from seaward the sea breaks
across the entrance, and at that time not even a boat could cross the bar with-
out risk. The roadstead off the river's mouth is quite exposed, and the
holding ground bad.
Niëgata is the most opulent city on the West coast of Nipon. It contains
about 35,000 inhabitants, and appears to absorb nearly the whole junk
trade of that side of the island, but it is not adapted for foreign vessels.
The city is situated on an extensive alluvial plain, intersected by many
rivers, which fall near the coast into the main stream, the Sinano gawa,
which takes its rise about 120 miles to the southward. This low coast
extends for 42 miles, and presents an even appearance, dotted with trees
and houses. When bearing South or S.S.W., it is seen clearly intersected
by the river entrance, filled with junks; from other directions their mast-
heads are visible over the land, one fleet of them lying just within the
entrance, and another more to the southward, off the city. Farther to
2 U2
660
THE WEST COAST OF NIPON.
the East, on a small elevation, is seen the town of Aosima yama and high
mountains rise in the interior.
Soundings reach to a considerable distance off the mainland in the vi-
cinity of Niegata; vessels, therefore, running between Sado and Nipon at
night, or in a fog, should keep the lead quickly hove. Should soundings
be obtained and decrease gradually, the mainland is being approached. A
run of very deep water will be found on the Sado side of the channel.
The U.S.S. Shenandoah, Commodore J. R. Gouldsborough, anchored off
the city in 1867, in 10 fathoms water; mud and fine black sandy bottom.
Twelve feet of water was found upon the bar, high water; rise and fall,
4 feet.
The bar has two boat channels; the one to the East is deepest. There is
a sand-bank about half a mile from the land, and about one mile wide;
inside the bar there are 4 fathoms. The coast is low for some distance, and
presents an even appearance, dotted with trees and houses.
The left bank of the river from its mouth is sandy, and first turns
S.S.W. and then S.W. up to the city. The right bank is sandy at the
entrance, then marshy, but steep; it trends S.E. by S., and then runs pa-
rallel to the left bank. The broadest part of the river is 6 cables, opposite
the second bend.
The city, which is of great extent, is intersected by canals crossed by
bridges, their banks shaded by weeping willows. It is surrounded by gar-
dens of the pear tree, peach, and vine; between the trees are planted turnips,
onions, and mustard. The position of the governor's house is lat. 37° 58′ 51′
N., long. 139° 9′ 45" E.
The town of Aosima yama stands near the embouchure of a river, which
also has a bar carrying only 7 feet. It is said to be 6 miles N.E. of Niëgata,
but is but half that distance according to the Japanese manuscript.
For the distance of 4 miles a strong indraught, on the flood tide, is ex-
perienced off the entrance of Niëgata, greatly to the inconvenience of sailing
vessels seeking an offing. The ebb would, of course, assist them off the
land.
At 15 miles S.W. W. from Niëgata the low shore terminates at Kadota-
yama Head, 4 miles North of a spur of the fine peaks of Yafiko yama, which
has the appearance of a blunt cone sloping on the West. A mile to the South
the peak of Kauriko yama rises to a higher elevation.
TOYAMA BAY.-The coast to the S.W. of Yafiko yama is very high,
especially near this bay, where the three snowy peaks of the Sa-yama moun-
tains appear above the clouds. Cape Roiven or Noto, is the western point of
entrance to this extensive bay, which is broadly open to the North and N.E.
The Djigit passed along its eastern and southern shores, both of which are
very populous, as was evident in the number and extent of the villages seen.
Some rivers flow into the bay, but having bars like that of Niegata they
CAPE NOTO.
661
are not accessible to ships. All the anchorages off the villages are more
or less exposed to winds from the northward. The River Gensiu gawa, on
which the town of Toyama stands, has a bar of 7 feet water completely
across it.
This bay is in every respect inferior to the roadstead off Niëgata, and with
strong northerly winds more difficult to quit. The harbour of Unoura, on its
western side, was not examined, but according to the Japanese manuscript.
it is spacious.
Yutsi sima, in lat. 37° 50′ N., 136° 55′ E., is 40 feet high, about two-
thirds of a mile in diameter, level, and cultivated; there are a few stunted
trees on it, and a small village on its southern side. With the island bear-
ing N.N.W. 5 miles, the depth was 46 fathoms, fine sand.
The Astrolabe Rock, in lat. 37° 35′ N., 136° 54′ E., 200 feet high, and
about a quarter or a third of a mile in diameter, is the largest and highest of
a group of five rocks, which extend nearly 1½ mile in a N.E. and S.W. direc-
tion, and vary from 200 to 70 feet in height.
CAPE NOTO or Roiven, in lat. 37° 28′ N., 137° 22′ E., is elevated about
700 or 800 feet, the land rising 1,200 to 2,000 feet to the westward of it.
At 12 miles W. by S. from the cape is a remarkable white cliff that shows
well to the westward; from this cliff the coast bends in to the southward and
forms Waisima Bay. The opposite point of the bay is about 8 miles distant,
and immediately above it is the sharp peak of Wasisu yama, elevated 2,000
feet, which is the highest point in the neighbourhood, the land being generally
level and of an uniform height of about 800 or 1,000 feet. At 10 miles W.
by S. from Waisima, or 30 miles W. by S. from Cape Noto, the coast at
Isonosu, a prominent projecting hill, 800 feet high, trends away sharply to
the southward, 12 miles to the entrance of Nanao.
Nanao, or Nanow, is in lat. 37° 2′ N., long. 136° 58' E. The entrance
to this harbour is about half a mile wide; but after passing the project-
ing point which forms the narrow entrance, a wide and capacious bay
opens.
The city of Nanao is situated in the extreme western angle of the bay,
and soundings gradually decrease from 14 fathoms at the entrance until you
reach the anchorage off the town.
Two small islands, 10 feet above water, lay about 2 miles off from the
town; good water all round these islands, except about 800 feet W.N.W.
off the western one, where there is a patch of 16 feet. By keeping the
starboard hand aboard, on entering and passing about a quarter of a mile
from the only bluff point on the western side as you enter the harbour, you
will carry 7, 6, 5, and 4 fathoms water, muddy bottom.
The population of Nanao is about 15,000, and its exports very little, if
anything a few dried fish and mats only. A ship-yard is being built to the
eastward of the town.
662
THE WEST COAST OF NIPON.
Nanao has two entrances, caused by an inlet about 3 miles long, parallel
with the coast and between the northern and southern extreme point of land
which forms the entrance to this spacious bay. There are no peculiar fea-
tures of the coast, or landmarks, to denote their entrances as you approach
them from the sea. A sunken rock exists about 5 miles from the southern
point, and a reef is said to exist off the northern point of the South entrance.
The northern entrance is said to be more free from obstructions than the
southern.
3
Bring the middle of the southern entrance to bear W. by S. 2 S., and
then run for it. After entering the channel, keep close over to the North
shore, running parallel to a line passing through North Channel bluff and
Matui-Osaki, which will be a course about W. by S. 2 S.; but do not get
inside the bight between the two points, for there is a shoal there with only
3 feet of water on it bearing S. by W. from a little village. In passing
through the channel South of North Channel Bluff, borrow on the northern
side, which may be approached quite closely, and steer in towards the har-
bour S.W. by W. & W.
3
The southern side of the entrance of Nanao is said to be quite rocky, with
dangerous reefs extending from it in an easterly direction to the distance of
5 miles.
From North channel bluff steer S.W. by W. W., by compass, until
the North side of square cliff (Ota) is in line with East end of Mejima;
the steer S.W. W. until the North end of square cliff is in line with the
centre of Ojima, when steer S. E. until the centre of square cliff bears E.
1/4
N., where a good anchorage will be found in 4 fathoms water. This is
about the centre of the harbour.
The danger to be avoided in entering this harbour is a 16-foot spot, which
is 850 yards from Ojima, and in range with that island and the North end
of square cliff.
Mikuni Roads.-This place is about 58 miles southward of Nanao, in lat.
36° 12′ N., long. 136° 8′ E. The U.S.S. Shenandoah came here in 1867.
The approach to Mikuni roads is bold to within half a mile from the shore,
when the soundings vary from 9 to 6 fathoms.
The best anchorage is to bring the West end of Assinia Island to bear N.;
then steering North or South, as the case may be, until the mouth of Mikuni
River (which is easily distinguished) bears E.S.E., when 7 fathoms will be
found; bottom sand and hard mud; good holding ground. The course can
then be laid E.S.E., steering for the entrance, and, as the soundings are gra-
dual, suitable water may be found for an anchorage. There is bold water
off the West side of Assinia Islands.
The town of Mikuni is said to contain about 10,000 inhabitants, and their
exports silk and dried fish. It is situated on the right bank of the river,
about half a mile from its mouth; the bar has only 6 feet at low water.
TSURUGA BAY.
663
Rise and fall of tide about 9 feet. The anchorage in the outer roads is
exposed from S. W. round West to North, but completely sheltered from
all other winds.
WAKASA BAY, an opening 25 miles wide, commences at 18 miles beyond
Mikuni. At its S.E. angle is Tsuruga Bay, and in the S.W. angle is
Myadsu, both visited by the Shenandoah in 1867.
TSURUGA BAY, in lat. 35° 39′ N., long. 136° 4′ E., is a large inlet, which
extends to within 10 miles of the Biwa Lake, and from this possesses some
importance, as the capital of Japan is near the S.W. end of the lake, and it
has been proposed to connect the bay with Oosaka by a railroad.
The American directions follow:-Approaching Tsuruga Bay from the
northward, steer so as to be distant 6 miles from the North end of Tama-
gawa when it is brought in line with Ibo Point; then steer S.E. S. until
a triangular white cliff, to the left of the town, is opened, when bring it to
bear S. E., and then steer for it until the first prominent point on the left
of the bay, going in, is brought to bear E. by N. & N.; then steer S. W.
to the anchorage.
3
1
This harbour is very easy of ingress and egress, and, so far as is known,
free from rocks. No soundings under 13 fathoms until you get well in the
harbour; the western shore should be avoided.
It is said that during autumn and winter a heavy swell sets in when the
wind is from the northward and westward. The land around is high. The
town of Tsuruga is at the head of the bay, and contains about 15,000 in-
habitants; exports, dried fish and rice. Good lime is made in the neighbour-
hood of Tsuruga. Rise and fall of the tide 2 feet.
3
4
Myadsu, in lat. 35° 32′ N.; long. 135° 15' E., the southernmost of the
Okino Islands, bears N.E. & E., distant about 8 miles from the entrance to
Myadsu, which is an excellent harbour, completely landlocked, with good
holding ground.
With this island on that bearing, steer S.W. W. between Whale Point
and Okatashima, then steer S.W. S. until at the mouth of the harbour,
when steer direct for the battery. The soundings from the mouth of the
harbour will gradually decrease from 11 to 7 and 6 fathoms to abreast of the
town, with bottom of sticky mud. The best anchorage is on a North line
from the battery in about 8 fathoms, with mud bottom and good holding-
ground. At the right of the town, and off a red sand-bank about 150 yards,
a sounding of 1 fathom was found.
This is a harbour easy of ingress and egress, free from dangers; the shoal-
est water is on the western shore; a rock exists on the eastern side of the
entrance between the two inner points. Keep mid-channel, and you will
carry good water up to the anchorage.
The town contains about 12,000 inhabitants. Silk is manufactured in the
neighbourhood, and this is a great mart for dried fish. A four-gun battery
664
THE WEST COAST OF NIPON.
is erected in front of the Damio's residence. The rise and fall of the tide is
barely perceptible.
OKI ISLANDS.-The Oki group consist of one large and a group of three
smaller islands, and a number of islets and rocks. They lie N.E. and S.W.
of each other, and occupy an extent of 23 miles in that direction. There is
an open and apparently safe channel between the large islands and the group
of smaller ones.
Oki sima, the N.E. or largest island, about 10 miles in diameter, has a
number of detached high rocks close to its northern point, which is steep
and cliffy. Its S.W. extreme is remarkable from its terminating in a high
steep bluff; its S.E. point is comparatively low. The highest part of the
island was estimated at 3,000 feet elevation.
The group of three islands is about 9 miles in diameter, and probably
good anchorage may be found as there are deeply indented bays. The North
point of Nisi sima, the western of the three, rises to a sharp peak of 1,700
feet elevation. The other two are about half that height. They ap-
pear to be thickly populated, and the hills are cultivated to their summits.
Mino Sima is in lat. 34° 47′ N., long. 131° 7′ E., and 20 miles distant
from the northern coast of the province of Nagato, which forms the foot of
Nipon. Its highest part, elevated 492 feet, is in the centre of its West side.
Its sides appear steep and cliffy, except on the N.E., where there is a sandy
bay. A large square rock lies half a cable off its eastern point, and there is
an islet on its N.W. side.
NATSUNGU SAKI, or Square Rock Point, is the northern extremity of
the western prolongation of the toe of Nipon; it is 20 miles S.S.W. of Mino
sima, and 30 miles northward of the western entrance of the Inland Sea. It
appeared to be about 700 feet high, with a nippled outline, bordered by
high cliffs on the North, and slightly tapering towards the sea, where it was
about 500 feet in height. It may be easily known by the remarkable square
rock or head springing from its base, and which, being entirely detached
from the high land of the point, gives it the appearance of an island. Seen
at the distance of 24 miles from the N.E., it assumes the appearance of
gently shelving table-land, having three or four large notches, the sharp
cone of Aoumi sima and the distant summit of Kabuto yama showing to the
eastward. This sharp and remarkable cone, of 700 feet elevation, marks
the eastern point of the deep bay of Fukugawa.
CAPE LOUISA, or Takayama, E. by S. & S. 24 miles from Mino sima,
is a remarkable sharp peak, 1,800 feet in height, on a projecting and very
prominent point of the coast, 34 miles E. by N. N. from Square Rock
Point. This peak appears quite isolated as seen from the vicinity of Square
Rock Point.
4
Ai Sima, or Richard's Island.-Between Square Rock Point and Cape
Louisa there is a large bay, with many islands on it, generally about 200 ft.
WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.
665
high, and flat-topped, with cliffy inaccessible sides. The largest are Ai sima
and O sima. Ai sima, the outer, is midway between the above capes and
just within the chord of the bay; it is elevated 400 ft., having a flat-topped
hill in its centre. O sima, 5 miles East of Ai sima, is also 400 feet high,
but longer and flatter. Aoumi sima, 4 miles in length East and West, is
10 miles East of Square Rock Point, its western point being the sharp cone
before alluded to. On the Japanese chart there is represented between
this island and the coast, a finely sheltered and capacious harbour called
Misumin
Between Ai sima and the East part of Aoumi sima the Saracen's track
survey represents four doubtful islets, which do not appear on the Japanese
manuscript.
Igama Bay is an inlet running in 7 miles in any easterly direction on the
South side of Square Rock Point. The north-western corner would appear
to afford the best anchorage, but no part of it has been explored.
Kado Sima (Double Wedge Island of Richards) is 1 mile off the South
point of entrance to Igama Bay. It is 23 miles long E.N.E. and W.S.W.,
and of very peculiar formation as seen from the North, being divided nearly
equally into two very flat quoins, the points of the wedges being both to the
westward, and their steep falls to the East.
Simonoseki Strait.-From this island the coast trends southward to the
entrance of Simonoseki Strait (page 603), which is approached by a very
even and gradually decreasing depth. The shore should be given a berth,
as, where surveyed or seen, it was found to be very rocky.
WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.
KOTSU SIMA, or Colnett Island, the name by which it is more usually
known, lies in the Korea Strait, nearly midway between the East coast of
Tsu sima and the western entrance of the Inland Sea. In clear weather it
can be seen from Iki Island, Tsu sima and the coast. It is a mile wide at
its broadest part; its sides are steep, with a high cliff at the N.E. point,
and rise with slight irregularities to a central peak 800 ft. high. At a great
distance the slopes appear even. Four notched rocks or islets, 80 feet high,
and visible 12 miles, lie 4 cables S.E. by S. of the South point.
Orono Sima (Obree Island), in lat. 33° 52′ N., long. 130° 0′ E., and 37
miles W. by S. of the Siro simas at the entrance of the Inland Sea, is a
double-topped island, the South hill of which, and the higher, is elevated
about 300 feet. It is about a mile in diameter. There appear to be no
dangers between this island, Colnet, Iki, Tsu sima, and the entrance of the
Inland Sea.
Kosime no oo sima, or Wilson Island, lying about 2 miles off the northern
coast of Kiusiu, is remarkable from its prominent position off the entrance of
666
WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.
the Inland Sea. It is somewhat flat, with a hill 854 feet high rising from
its centre, surmounted by a large clump of trees, and is visible in clear
weather at 30 miles.
A shoal extends to the eastward from the S.E. part of this island, having
3 fathoms on the outer end at a distance of 6 cables.
GENKAR NADA is the sea comprised between Iki Island, Wilson Island,
and the mainland. The numerous islands within it are generally safe of
approach, and the adjacent waters are singularly free from danger. Not so
the eastern part of the Genkar nada, where lie three very dangerous tidal
and sunken rocks. The soundings appear very even, except in the vicinity
of these rocks; the bottom is sandy or gravelly.
A steamer taking this route only effects a saving of 8 or 10 miles, but a
sailing vessel proceeding to the southward would benefit considerably by
keeping inshore in the Genkar nada out of the north-easterly current, and
taking advantage of the tides, which are pretty regular, by dropping a kedge
when unable to make way.
The COAST.-From abreast Wilson Island the hills decrease in elevation
from the double peaks over Kanega saki, the West point of the North coast
of Kiusiu towards the South, but high mountains are seen in the interior.
Southward of Katsura saki (which has a reef 1½ mile South of it), and off it,
is a small conspicuous tree islet, the coast becoming moderately low and
wooded. Thence a low strip of sand-hills terminates in the North entrance to
Hakosaki Bay.* Ai sima is an island of table land, 200 feet high, on which a
single tree shows very conspicuously. On the S. shore of Hakosaki Bay is a
large city, called Fukuoka, the capital and fortress of the Prince of Mino, one of
the seven most powerful of the independent Daimios. Siga sima, with rocks to
the W. of it, off the entrance of the bay, is even and wooded, as is also Nakosi
or No-ko-no sima, a mile to the South. Genkar sima or Reed Island, round-
topped and steep-sided, with a ninepin rock 4 cables N.W. of it, lies off the
projection of the main at the South side of the entrance of the bay. The passage
South of Reed Island has only 3 fathoms on it. From Reed Island the face of
a hilly promontory extends S. W. 9 miles, and on it are two bays, probably
affording anchorage. Kusaya, the S.W. point of the promontory, is a bluff,
1 mile W. of which is Hime sima or Hill Island, about 600 feet in height, with
a gravel spit to 6 cables S. of it. South-westward of Kusaya Point is another
deep bay,† with mountanious shores, which rise to a fine peak upwards of
2,000 feet in height.
Yebosi sima or Cone Islet, 128 feet high, 27 miles S.W. by W. 2 W. of
* H.M.S. Centaur, J. H. Lawrence, Master, R.N., anchored, in 1861, in this vicinity in
a bay called Ino-sima, in 12 fathoms, mud bottom and good holding-ground, and protected
from all northerly winds; the North point of Reed Island bearing S. W. by W. W.
The town or fortress of Karatsu or Karaouo, belonging to the Prince of Satou, is at
the bottom of the southern arm of this bay.
SWAIN REEF-KAGARA.
667
Wilson Island, and 12 miles S. by W. W. of Orono sima, lies in the centre
of the southern part of the Genkar nada, and is a most useful guide to avoid
its dangers.
Swain Reef, the principal of these dangers, originally placed 33 miles
westward by Mr. Swain, H.M.S. Roebuck, 1860, lies in the fairway, 10 miles
S.W. by W. of Wilson Island, 16 miles E.N.E. of Cone Islet, and 12 miles
E.S.E. of Orono sima. It is nearly 4 cables in extent, and scarcely covered;
some rocks on its eastern part are nearly always seen, being 5 feet above
low water. There are 16 fathoms near the edge of the reef, deepening to 19
and 20 fathoms, sand and gravel.
1
4
Ellis Reef, lying S.W. 9 miles from Swain Reef, is another danger more
out of the fairway of vessels making a direct course through the Genkar
nada. It lies E. N. 8 miles from Cone Island, and W. by N. 3 miles
from the rock off Reed Island. It never quite uncovers, but in bad weather
the heads of the rocks are seen. One mile S.S.E. of the reef is rocky ground,
with soundings of 4 to 10 fathoms.
Dove Reef, on which some small brown rocks were seen, is 3 miles S.W.
S. of the Ellis. It may be passed at a mile on the outside in 19 fathoms,
fine sand.
Na sima.-Three clusters of rocks and islets (two in a cluster), 14 to 20
feet above low water, lie eastward of the large island of Iki. Richards
places the eastern 4 miles N.W. W. of Cone Islet.
4
IKI, the largest island off the N.W. coast of Kiusiu, is 10 miles long,
North and South, and 9 miles at its widest part. It is of sandstone forma-
tion, chiefly table land, the southern part rising to an elevation of 680 feet,
and its N.E. hill to 470 feet. There are many islands and reefs off its
shores, the deep indentations of which afford anchorage in rather deep water
in sheltered harbours, of which Moro yosi on the East coast, Hono ura on
the S.W., and Ina minato on the West are the best. Katzmota ura, at the
N.W. part of the island, was a wild-looking anchorage, where the swell was
seen breaking heavily in fine weather. A vessel may also anchor on the
North coast, with the North hill bearing S.E.
A rock, having only 8 feet at low water on it, lies three-quarters of a mile
South of the two outermost low flat rocks, Shimo Idzumi and Kami Idzumi,
off the East coast of Iki sima; the whole of that East coast is much encum-
bered by ledges of rocks, extending some distance from the shore.
Kagara (Christian Island) is the centre and largest of three islands off the
main, 8 miles S.E. of Iki. Bunn, the eastern island of the three, is low,
with a clump of trees on its S.E. head, a good object to steer for in passing
through the channel East of Bunn. There is a rock 4 cables off the South
part of Kagara. Mat sima, lying close off the S.W. part of Kadara, has
rocks off its extremes.
Passage Reef, a large straggling patch of low flat rugged rocks, lies 1 mile
66S
WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.
E.S.E. of Bunn Island. The two highest rocks on it, about 20 feet high, on
one of which there is a stone beacon, are the only parts which show at a
distance.
Yobuko Harbour is a completely land-locked inlet, 1 to 2 cables broad,
running in 1 mile southward of the island Kaba sima, which fronts its
entrance, and divides its approach into two channels. The junks use the
eastern passage.
The western entrance is broad, bold and deep. It can be easily recog-
nized by a remarkable square clump of trees on the low point (Hato saki)
forming the western boundary of the outer bay. In 1860 H.M.S. Pioneer
anchored in 11 fathoms of Ibiko village, at the entrance on the western
shore.
Hato saki, the West point of entrance to Yobuko, is low and rocky, with a
remarkable square clump of fir trees on it, which makes like an islet when
first seen from the south-westward. The coast to the southward is much in-
dented, with long rocky points extending from the shore into deep water.
The great bay of Imari is unexplored.
Madara Sima, or Covey Island, lies 7 miles S. by E. of the South point of
Iki, and appears bold on all sides. Its West peak, 630 feet high, falls
steeply to the sea over a cliff-bound shore. Off the West point is a rock.
Futakami, 9 miles W. by N. of Madara, is a saddle-shaped island, 320
feet high, with a rock or islet half a mile to the N.W. of it. The outlying
Ko-futakami Rock is 2 miles further in the same direction.
Atsusi no O Sima, or Harbour Island, 13 miles S.W. by S. of Iki, is irre-
gular in shape, and 4 miles across from East to West. It is rather high,
the northern and S.E. hills being the two highest. Its coasts are bold, the
only known danger being a small rock 6 cables off the middle part of the
N.W. coast, about 1½ mile N.E. by N. of its south-western point.
Port Lindsay, on the South side of the island, is a large bay open to the
South, and too deep for convenient anchorage. Although the bay is open
and exposed to the South, there is not fetch enough to allow much sea to
rise. The western point of entrance is low and flat.
Do sima, a mile South of Atsusi no O sima, has some rounded summits of
moderate elevation, showing smooth bare rocky sides. There is anchorage
on its South side, West of Yoka sima, one of two islets to the S.E.
Ikutski, or Ykitsk Island, 5 miles in length North and South, lies close
off the N.W. point of Hirado, separated from it by the Obree Channel. Its
North point, off which is a rock, has an overhanging cliff of considerable
height, facing the West, but which slopes gently to the East.
Obree Channel, about 4 cables wide, has been ascertained to be quite
clear, with a depth of 15 fathoms in the middle. .The Saracen anchored
just inside it off the south-east shore of Ikutski, in 7 fathoms, in a snug
bay, at about a quarter of a mile off a village. The vessed passed North
HIRADO OR FIRANDO ISLAND, ETC.
669
and West of an islet and a rock lying in the fairway 2 miles to the north-
eastward. A large ship should not keep too close to the south-east point of
Ikutski.
HIRADO or FIRANDO ISLAND, 16 miles in length N.E. and S.W.,
and, owing to its deeply indented coast line, of an irregular breadth of 1 to
5 miles, lies adjacent to the West coast of Kiusiu, from which it is separated
by Apex Strait. Hirado is high and hilly, and much wooded, and its coasts,
wherever explored, have been found very bold. The Saracen passed in deep
water through the Obree Channel along its West coast, inside the Aska sima
or Sisters, and rounded the islets off its S.W. point at a mile. Over Sisiki
saki, the South point of Hirado, there rises precipitously a remarkably sharp
peak, and 34 miles in a south-westerly direction from the point is Sail (or
White) Rock, the position of which has not been very correctly determined.
The PORT of FIRANDO, situate on the West side of the northern point
of Hirado, was, previous to 1623, the chief location of British and other
foreign trade with Japan, which from that period was restricted to the Dutch
at Nagasaki. It was visited by H.M.S. Roebuck in 1859, and described as a
spacious harbour running East and West, 2 miles deep, and sheltered from
all winds. A good guide to recognize its position is a small island lying off
the North point of entrance.
There are three islets in the harbour, and good anchorage in 4 fathoms
between the southern islet and the shore. The deep arm running to the
South just within the entrance was not examined. The large town of
Firando stands on the narrow neck between the head of the harbour and
Spex Strait.
SPEX STRAIT (also called Hirado Strait), between Hirado and a pro-
montory of Kiusiu, is about 10 miles in length, and navigable without diffi-
culty by steamers, but as the tides at springs are stated to run with great
strength through the narrow channel* at its northern part, where for 2 miles
the whole breadth of the strait is only 3 cables, and the navigable channel at
one part only 1½ cable, a sailing vessel cannot be taken through with safety
without a commanding breeze, which, to be relied on, must blow directly
through the strait.
Entering by the North, the channel becomes suddenly contracted to 1 cable
West of a rock 10 feet above high water, lying in mid-stream at the entrance,
and 2 cables North of the small wooded head of Furato saki on Kiusiu.
* This is the dangerous part of the strait, the great strength of the tides over the uneven
bottom, &c., causing small whirlpools to be formed in the middle of the channel. It is
indispensable, therefore, especially for a large ship, to have good steerage way, which
must be kept even with a favouring tide to ensure safety.-Capt. J. Borlase, H.M.S. Pearl,
and J. S. Compton, Master R.N., H.M.S. Renard, 1861. Commander H. A. Reilly,
H.M.S. Pioneer, 1860, states that the dangers are few, and clearly marked with stone
beacons.
670
WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.
Passing within a cable West of this rock, a S. W. course should be steered
along the Kiusiu shore, so as to avoid some rocks which break, extending
from the Firando shore as far as mid-channel, and also a 2-fathoms patch off
the island in front of the town of Firando.
After passing the Daimio's (Prince of Iki) residence, which stands em-
bowered in trees, and can be recognized by the white wall along the shore
which surrounds it, the course becomes S.E. by S. and S.W. by S. round the
bight opposite the point south-eastward of the residence, off which point,
N.N.E. 2 cables distant, is a rock 4 feet above high water. In rounding
the bend the Kiusiu shore need not be kept very close aboard.
When proceeding by this route, it will frequently be found necessary to
anchor for the night, at which time the strait can seldom be passed. The
pilots have usually anchored H.M. ships in Kawatch or Kawatsu, situated on
the East side of Hirado. Another anchorage is eastward of Kuro sima.
Taske Bay, at the northern part of the strait, is 1 cable in length and 1 in
breadth. There is access to the bay by both channels, but there are only 2
fathoms in that South of the island in the front.
Directions from the southward will be given hereafter.
Otate Island and Bonnet Islet, the former a mile N.W. of the latter,
and 10 miles S.S.E. of Hirado, lie directly in the fairway between Hirado
and Nagasaki. One mile N.W. by W. W. of Otate are two islets, and N.
by E. E. half a mile, a rock awash; and again, 3 miles North, a sunken
rock has been reported. These are the only known dangers off the group
which may be passed on either hand.
Yenoi Sima, 600 feet high, is 43 miles westward of Otate, and its eastern
side, which borders on the channel, is bold, but from South round to N.N.W.
of the island are many scattered islets, rocks, and reefs, which render the
navigation between it and Hira sima, 2 miles to the westward, extremely
hazardous.
Two
The southern part of these outlying groups is the most dangerous.
islets, 150 and 50 feet high, West and S.S.W. 12 and 1 mile respectively
from the South point (a small head) of Yenoi sima, are the most noticeable.
The outermost is 52 W. 3½ miles from the peak of the island.
Hiki Sima is a partially cultivated island, apparently 1 mile long, about
280 feet high, with a remarkable rounded hummock (cone-shaped) at its
S.E. extreme, connected with the main body of the island by a long strip
of shore; reefs appeared to extend about three-quarters of a mile off the
North side of the island. The easternmost of the Sumo sima group is fully
1 mile eastward of the other two rocks, with a clear deep-water passage
between. The outer rock of the Sumo sima group is a pinnacle rock, with
an arch through it.
A dangerous reef runs parallel to and distant about 1 mile from the North
THE GOTO ISLANDS-FUKUYE.
671
side of the island. A rock, on which the sea breaks, lies 3 cables E. by
S. S. from the centre of the island.
The Brothers, placed in lat. 32° 49′ N., long. 129° 25′ E., if existing at all,
which is somewhat doubtful, must be very small or sunken rocks. They
have not been seen of late. They are, however, placed on the latest Dutch
survey of 1858.
The GOTO ISLANDS.-This mountainous chain of many islands, lying
between the parallels of 32° 37′ and 33° 20′ N., is 50 miles in extent, in a
N.E. and S.W. direction, and from 5 to 20 miles in breadth. Several im-
portant islands and rocks have been discovered on the eastern side by Comm.
Brooker, in H.M.S. Sylvia, in 1869. The chain may be passed through into
the Korea Strait by six channels, all of which, judging from those parts
which have been surveyed and from the nature of the coast, probably carry
deep water.
Kosaka Channel, the northern of these channels through the group, was
entered by H.M. ships Dove and Leven at dusk, from the eastward, South of
the small island Mutz sima, 12 fathoms being the least water obtained in
the passage, which is about three-quarters of a mile in breadth. Uku
sima or Huko is high, with low land stretching towards its East point.
The Hodge Rock, the only known danger in this vicinity, is about a mile
North of the outermost of several islets which extend 10 miles West of
Kosaka.
Kuga Channel.-The Saracen, after leaving Nagasaki, stood across to the
Goto Islands, and, entering the Naru Channel East of Kaba sima, worked
to the westward, and anchored in Hardy Harbour, a snug anchorage on the
S.W. side of Naru sima, and in the Kagu Channel. This is a small inlet,
6 cables in length North and South, and 3 to 4 in breadth. There is an
islet (Observatory) at its entrance, and 1 mile South the larger island Mia
sima, of two parts connected by a shingle spit, gives protection from that
quarter.
Within Observatory Islet the water is deep, decreasing from 16 to 5
fathoms close up to the head of the harbour, but the more convenient depth
of 6 to 7 fathoms may be obtained by anchoring W.N.W. of the islet and
rather nearer to the opposite shore. The Kuga Channel was then examined
and found to carry deep water, 26 to 32 fathoms, with exceedingly bold.
shores, and not the least indication of unseen dangers.
FUKUYE, or Fukai, the chief town of the Goto Islands, and the fortress
of the Daimio, Gotjima Saijemma no Djo, is situate on the shore of an open
roadstead on the north-eastern side of Fukuye sima, the southern and
largest island of the chain, and southward of the Fukuye Channel, which
separates it from Kuga sima.
672
WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.
CAPE GOTO or Ose Saki, is the S.W. point of Fukuye sima. Not of
great elevation (about 500 feet), it is exceedingly bold, having 45 fathoms
water at 2 cables distance, its steep rocky shores receding from the cape at
a right angle. Behind, or north-eastward of the cape, rise three fine
mountains (about N.N.W. of each other), separated by valleys, of which the
northern and highest is 1,387 feet above the sea. At the extremity of the
coast, which extends E.S.E. 3 miles from the cape, is Otakara Point, the
highest of the two small hills on which is 330 feet. A quarter of a mile
S.E. is the islet Biro sima, 150 feet in height, with a rock 1 cable off it to
the South.
E. by S. 3 miles from Otakara is Tsutara sima, the eastern of the two hills
of which is 320 feet high. Reefs stretch off its East and West points. To
the North of this island and on the South side of Fukuye, is a large rectan-
gular bay, 4 miles in length and a mile deep. Situated centrally in the
large bay, at 7 cables N.N.W. of Tsutara, are the two islets Hitango sima,
with deep water midway between.
One mile West of these islets is a rock 15 feet high near the extremity of
a large reef, extending south-westward from the shore nearly a mile, and the
greater part of which is awash.
Tama no Ura, the name of a large inlet or arm of the sea on the western
side of Fukuye sima, is finely situated as a port of refuge, and, but for its
great depth of water, would be a magnificent harbour. Its only entrance is
4 miles N.N.E. of Cape Goto, and 24 miles S.E. of the island Saga sima,
which is 12 mile in length. In the bay, on the East side of Saga, there is
good anchorage in 7 to 8 fathoms, quite sheltered from all westerly winds.
The entrance to Tama no ura is a mile wide, and must not be mistaken
for a blind opening 2 cables wide, only 2 miles North of Cape Goto, and
which has a reef of rocks extending across its entrance.
The main inlet of the harbour, which has a varying breadth of 3 to 7
cables, follows the contour of the coast-line for 6 miles, separated from the
sea by a belt of land, a mile in average breadth. It first runs S. by W. 3
miles, then curves to the S.E. for 1½ mile to its head. The depth within the
entrance is 32 to 38 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 16 at its head, render-
ing anchorage inconvenient, except at the following position.
Directly south-east of the entrance, and on its eastern shore, the harbour
branches into three narrow arms about a mile in length. East, 3 cables
from the North of Hallowes Island in the centre of this part of the harbour,
there are soundings of 10 and 11 fathoms, which offer anchorage, open only
between N.W. and N.N.W. Off the inner part of the blind entrance there
is fair anchorage in 10 to 13 fathoms, within 2 cables of the South shore
of Sima.
The best anchorage for large ships will be found at the S.E. part of the
harbour, in 16 fathoms, mid-channel, with the peak of Boshi yama, which
BAY AND LIGHTHOUSE OF NAGASAKI.
673
is seen ahead when standing up the harbour, bearing from S.W. by W. to
W.S.W.-(Mr. W. Blackney, R.N., H.M.S. Algerine, 1861.)
From Tama no ura the coast runs North about 5 miles from Algerine
Bluff, falling to a low point, the north-western promontory of Fukuye, which
is fronted by shelving rocks. Hime sima is separated from this point by a
channel a mile wide, in which was seen a rock awash.
The BAY of NAGASAKI is formed to the northward of a peninsula of
the same name,* between the headlands Nomo saki and Oho saki, which lie
North and South of each other, distant 15 miles apart. The bay is fronted
by a chain of islands and reefs which quite shelter the harbour, which is an
arm or inlet at its head.
Directly East of Oho saki, the northern point of the bay, is a large and
unexplored anchorage named Mikasa, open only to the S.W. At half a mile
S.W. of Tan saki, the eastern point of this bay, is Kotako sima, and S.W.
half a mile from Kotako sima is a high sugar-loaf islet, inside which reefs
have been observed breaking.
NAGASAKI LIGHTHOUSE.-A lighthouse has been erected on the end
of a narrow ridge 189 feet above the sea, distant 14 cable from the extreme
North point of Iwo sima. The light will be shown from an iron tower about
34 feet high, hexagonal in shape, painted white, with a gilt ball on the top.
It is not known when the light will be exhibited.
Iwo sima and Oki sima appear as one long island, although separated by
a narrow boat-passage. They lie in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and are of
undulating outline, the eastern summit of Iwo, the outer of the two, being
400 feet in height. Signal Head, the north-western point of this island, is
a good guide for entering the bay. It is bold, and may be rounded at 3
cables distance in 25 fathoms. On its summit, which is cleared of trees,
there is a signal-staff and look-out house, from which the arrival of vessels
is telegraphed to Nagasaki.
Oki, of much the same height as Iwo, is more wooded, especially its
southern summit. There is access to the harbour by the channel East of
Oki, between it and Koyaki.
Hirase Rock, which covers at high water only, lies 4 cables from the
eastern shore of Iwo, and E. by S. S., 11 cables from Signal Head, and
although not directly in the fairway, is in the route of vessels beating
in and out. There do not appear to be any other dangers near it. If
covered, the bluff of Papenburg Island, bearing E. S., leads 3 cables
North of it.
Sotonohirase Rock, also covering at high water, is 9 cables off the S.W.
shore of Iwo, and S. by W. W. 1 mile from Signal Head. It is steep-
* Nagasaki means Long Cape.
North Pacific.
2 x
674
NAGASAKI, ETC.
to in 17 fathoms on the outside, but this depth is continued on a spit
running one mile N.W. by W. from the rock, its outer part in 18 fathoms
being W.S.W. 1 mile from Signal Head, with 37 to 38 fathoms on
all sides.
Kutsnose and Kurose Rocks.-The Kutsnose, 10 feet above high water,
lies inshore of the Sotonohirase, at 14 cable from Iwo.
The Kurose is a large straggling reef, of which the southern and highest
part is 6 feet above high water. North and N.W. of it several reefs dry in
parts on the foul rocky ground between it and the South end of Oki, from
which it is distant 4 cables.
Taka Sima, at 3 miles S. by W. of Signal Head, has a precipitous ridge,
about 900 feet high on its eastern side, and a smaller ridge over the cliffs on
its western or sea-face. Its shores are very rugged, with reefs extending 14
cables off its North and West points. Three small islands, about 120 feet
high, Tobi sima to the North, and Futako sima, two islands, on the South, lie
in line, North and South of its East face. The latter two are connected
together, and fringed by reefs. There are coal mines in operation on the
East side of Taka sima.
Hi Sima and Nagano Sima, 1 and 2 miles S. by W. and S.S.W. respec-
tively from the summit of Taka sima, are smooth-topped islands, about 120
feet in height, with rocky shores, and with reefs extending more than a
cable off their southern points. Nagano sima is 4 cables S.W. of Hi sima,
there being deep water, about 14 or 16 fathoms, in the passage between
them.
Mitzuse Rocks, the outermost dangers in the approach to Nagasaki from
the South, lie 3 miles S.W. of Taka sima, and N.W. W. 2 miles from
the summit of Cape Nomo. They spread irregularly over an extent of half
a mile, the interior rocks of the group covering with the tide. On the
northernmost rocks are two pointed islets, 60 feet in height, with outlying
patches on the East and West; the south-eastern of the group is a bare
rock about 6 feet above high water.
CAPE NOMO* or Nomo Saki is the south-western extremity of the
peninsula of Nagasaki. At a distance it has the appearance of an island,
and when nearing, it cannot be mistaken for any other land in its vicinity.
From the West or S.W. the island Kaba sima will be seen off the low point
East of the cape. At 6 cables North of the cape is Nomoyama Point, which
rises steeply to the wooded summit of a prominent hill, Nomoyama, imme-
* The mistaking of this cape for the South point of Kaba sima led to the wreck of the
Satsuma steamer. A large ninepin rock lies 2 cables off the extremity of the cape, which is
surrounded by small low detached rocks, most of which cover. Off Kaba sima the rocks are
compact and shelving, with a single outlying rock awash. There need, therefore, be no
difficulty as to its identity in the thickest weather.—1867.
CAPE NOMO.
675
diately beneath which, on a small bare shoulder towards the sea, stands a
look-out house. The coast between is broken and rocky, and skirted with
dangerous reefs, which dry out in patches to a quarter of a mile. At 2
cables off the cape is an inaccessible islet called Nomo Rock.
Nomo-ura Harbour, the entrance of which is on the western side of the
peninsula at 1 mile N.E. of Nomoyama Point, is small and perfectly
sheltered, 6 cables in length and from 1 to 2 in breadth. Within, there is a
depth of 5 fathoms, but it is only accessible to small vessels, having not
more than 9 to 10 feet at high water in the deepest part of its narrow
entrance, which is only 100 yards across.
West Coast of Nagasaki Peninsula.-The coast of the peninsula northward
from Nomoyama Point is bold, with a few outlying rocks, and may be passed
at 2 or 3 cables, in 10 to 13 fathoms. To the N.E. of Nomo-ura the coast
is low as far as a hilly point 2 miles distant. Off it are several long reefs,
drying out in patches.
The coast for 3 miles N.E. by N. of this hilly point is bold, with sound-
ings of 5 to 9 fathoms near the shore. It lies under a succession of hill
ranges, which terminate at a point abreast a group of rocky islets, North of
which point the small bay of Ookomura affords anchorage in 6 to 8 fathoms.
A conspicuous smooth-topped conical islet South of the islet group is very
noticeable close off this coast.
Suzume, a bare rock, about 50 ft. high, is the north-western of this group
of islets. No sima, the southern, and all the other islets, are wooded and low,
and surrounded by large reefs.
Koyaki is the largest island off Nagasaki, and is situated directly S.W.
of the entrance, which may be gained by the channels both East and West
of it. This island is not high, but very hilly, its two chief elevations being
362 and 403 ft. Numerous reefs and islets border its broken outline.
Hadagase is probably united to Joka sima, as the large reef on which that
islet stands stretches far towards the rock, as it also does towards Mume-
noki. Hadagase may be passed at 4 cables on its West side in 26 fathoms.
On the eastern side of Koyaki there is a mass of reefs in the South channel.
The island of Kageno appears part of Koyaki, as it is only separated from
its North point by a narrow boat-passage. The Naginato or Hungry Rock,
which covers at high water, lies a cable East of its N.E. point, off which is
a small islet.
Kamino Sima, at 6 cables North of Kageno, is the largest island on the
northern side of the fairway to Nagasaki. Its North hill is elevated 330
feet, and on its central hill, which is lower, is a signal-staff. On the East
side there is a small boat camber; on the S.W. the small flat island of Siro
sima, on which there is a battery, is connected with a work on Kamino sima
by a causeway of masonry.
North-westward of Siro sima are the two small islands Aino sima and
2 x 2
676
NAGASAKI, ETC.
Mats sima. Aino sima, at 13 cable distance, is a flat table island on a reef,
with a conspicuous rock * close off its South point; Mats sima, at 5 cables,
is a small hill 90 feet high. There is deep water in the passage between
Siro sima and Aino sima.
Barracouta Rock.-Off Kabuto saki, the S.E. point of Kamino sima, on
which there is a battery, are some small islets: One cable from these, S.W.
of the Tree Rock, and W. by N. of the South bluff of Papenburg, is the
Barracouta, a sunken rock, which is the only hidden danger in the entrance,
and may be cleared to the southward by keeping the summit of the coast
range (800 feet) over Megami Point open of Papenburg, bearing East. The
ship Templeman struck on a rock hereabout, if it was not the Barracouta
Rock, on July 23, 1860. It was considered that the position did not agree
with that of the latter, as given on the chart.
Papenburg, or Takaboko, 2 cables S.E. of Kamino sima, is the small pre-
cipitous island covered with dark foliage, which so well marks the entrance
to the harbour. It may be passed at half a cable in 18 fathoms. To the
N.E. of it, and distant one-third of a mile, is the small flat wooded island
Nizumi sima,† lying off the small bay of Kibatsu, East of the large village
of Kosedo.
The HARBOUR of NAGASAKI, an arm or inlet running in a north-
easterly direction from the head of Nagasaki Bay, is large and commodious,
thoroughly sheltered from all winds, and available for ships of all classes.
From its entrance, which is a quarter of a mile wide between Ogami Point
on the West and Megami Point on the East, it runs N.E. to the city a dis-
tance of 2 miles, increasing to a breadth (although irregularly, owing to
several bays on its shores), of three-quarters of a mile. Above the city it
narrows again, taking a northerly direction for another mile to its head,
which is exceedingly shallow. The depths decrease gradually from 16
fathoms at the entrance to 3 fathoms off the city.
The only danger at the entrance is a sunken rock, supposed to lie about
70 yards South of the East extreme of Ogami Point. A temple stands on
the South extreme of the point.
Megami Point is at the foot of a steep ridge, on which are three batteries,
one above the other. Within Megami Point 1 cable (a small islet lying
between them) is another point, on the extreme of which, in a battery, is a
remarkable large tree.
The best anchorage for men-of-war is just above the British Consulate
Bluff, large ships anchoring in 6 to 7 fathoms rather over towards Minage
* This rock or islet was the observing place of Sir Edward Belcher, in 1842, from which
several meridian distances were measured to Lu-chu, Quelpart, &c.
+ The observing place of Richards in 1856, from which meridian distances were measured
to Hong Kong, Hakodate, &c.
THE CITY OF NAGASAKI.
677
Point, at this the broadest part of the deep water of the harbour. Mer-
chant vessels usually anchor off the foreign settlement in 4 to 6 fathoms, or
even above Desima in 3 fathoms. In the hot weather of July and August,
great relief may be experienced from the closeness of the atmosphere, and
it will be beneficial to the health of the crews, to spring the ship's broadside
to the sea breeze, which, in fine weather, is almost constant from the S.W.
and generally very fresh.
The Hishiwo Bank, which fronts the shore from Desima to the foreign
settlement, is a good and convenient place for grounding. Its western edge
is steep, but off Desima, W. by S. of the Dutch Consulate flagstaff, the
bank is very flat. This is the spot recommended, especially for small
vessels.
The harbour has three approaches. The principal one or fairway is
directly from the N.W., the entrance of which, 4 miles outside the harbour,
is between Fakuda saki and Iwo sima, and carries very deep water, 32
fathoms, decreasing to 20 in the passage between Papenburg and Kageno,
and again to 15 and 16 fathoms at the entrance of the harbour.
The second approach is by the Oki Channel, between Oki sima and Ko-
yaki, but it is only 3 cables in breadth, and further narrowed by the reefs
which extend into the channel 1 cable from either shore. There are irre-
gular soundings at 7 to 19 fathoms in it, and the best course through is
midway between the reefs which are seen. Neither this channel nor its
approaches have been yet thoroughly examined.
The third approach is by the South channel, between Koyaki and the
main, and can only be used by steam-vessels. Narrow and intricate
amongst the reefs, with soundings varying from 4 to 15 fathoms, it cannot
be recommended, and can only be taken at the risk of the navigator.
The CITY of NAGASAKI, a treaty port, at present second only in im-
portance to Yokohama, and the only place of trade open to foreigners
between 1623 and 1857, covers a broad valley on the eastern side of the
harbour, surrounded by lofty hills. Its population is increasing; in 1868 it
amounted to nearly 70,000; in 1869, to 100,000. Of this population, on
December 31st, 1868, there were 214 European and American residents
(including 88 British, 35 American, 32 Dutch) and 629 Chinese; these last
also were greatly on the increase. Nagasaki is one of the five imperial
cities of Japan, and is under the jurisdiction of a governor holding his ap-
pointment from the Tycoon.
Desima, the historic site of the Dutch factory, projects into the harbour
on the S.W. side of the city, to which it is only connected by a stone bridge.
Shaped like the border of a fan, it is 250 yards in length and 80 in width,
* The rock on the South side of Minage Point, to which all the meridian distances are
referred, is a convenient and quiet spot for taking observations.
678
NAGASAKI.
and is traversed by a central street. Desima contains the residences and
warehouses of the Dutch community, the consulate being situated at its
S.W. angle. At the broad steps at its West end is the best place for land-
ing at the city.
The Custom-house (Japanese) is situate directly East of Desima, but is
not accessible to boats before a quarter-flood. The exports consist of tea,
silk, coal, vegetable wax, gall nuts, copper, gold; also various articles for
the Chinese market, as dried fish, sea slugs, sea weed, peas, beans, &c.
The imports consist of manufactured goods, metals, and various articles of
mixed merchandise, with the exception of munitions of war, which, by the
14th article of the treaty, can only be sold to the Japanese Government and
to foreigners.
The Chinese community occupy the square secluded block of houses S.E.
of Desima, connected with the shore by a bridge. They compose a trading
guild and factory, subjected for ages to every kind of restriction; but, as
said before, the Chinese population is increasing rapidly, and now carry on
a brisk trade with the ports of China.
The foreign settlement is on the flat South of Desima, having a water
frontage of 730 yards; it also stretches up the valley on the Owara Creek
on the South. The British Consulate is upon the bluff South of this creek,
where there is a good landing-place. There are also two landing-places in
front of the settlement, but only the lower one can be approached at low
water. The American, French, and Portuguese Consulates are on the hills
at the back of the settlement.
A Patent Slip, erected through the energy of Messrs Glover and Co., was
opened in January, 1869. It will prove of great advantage to vessels re-
quiring to be docked.
Supplies. All provisions are plentiful (mutton excepted), cheap, and
easily obtained, as also is wood and water; the latter is brought off in boats
to the shipping. Coal is abundant, at 9 to 11 dollars a ton, but is of very
inferior quality for steaming purposes, especially for high-pressure boilers.
There are numerous mines in the vicinity, one of which is in operation at
Taka sima. There is a Japanese Government steam-factory at Akunora,
on the West side of the harbour.
Pilots, either Japanese or European, can always be had at a charge of
30 dollars, obtained by requisition through the consul. It is said that they
are well acquainted with their business, and that it is their custom to take
entire charge of the navigation of the ship; but great caution should be
used in this respect, as some of them have only knowledge of particular
localities.*
* Mr. J. S. Compton, R.N., H.M.S. Reynard, 1861, remarks, that steaming during the
night through the Suwo nada, the pilot in the morning was quite ignorant of the ship's
position, "knowing nothing about the sea or the land."
DIRECTIONS.
679
TIDES.-It is high water, full and change, at Nagasaki, at 7h 15m;
springs rise 9 feet, and neaps about 6 feet, but they are variable. The
current in the harbour is always sluggish. A strong southerly wind is said
to raise the level at high water at springs to 10 to 12 feet, or 2 feet above
the ordinary level.
DIRECTIONS.-The entrance of Nagasaki, although safe of approach, is
sometimes difficult for a stranger to make out from a distance, especially in
clear weather, when the islands blend with the mainland; but on nearer ap-
proach or in slightly hazy weather when the islands appear in relief, the
uncertainty is removed. It is said that vessels from the S.W. are very
liable to make the entrance South of Iwo sima.
When making Nagasaki from S.W. or West, steer for the lighthouse and
to round Signal Head, the North end of Iwo sima, at a quarter of a mile,
not passing within a N.N.E. bearing of the head on approaching it, so as to
avoid the bank off the dangerous Soto no hirase Rock. After rounding the
head, steer E. S. for the Papenburg Bluff, passing it as closely as con-
venient, but taking care to avoid the Barracouta Rock; then E.N.E. for the
entrance.
Passing in mid-channel between Ogami and Megami points, a N.E. course
direct for the Dutch flag on Desima will then lead up in the best water, and
when the factory of Akunora, on the West shore, opens of Minage Point,
N. by W., a large vessel should haul up N.N.E., and anchor in 6 fathoms
between it and the British Consulate or foreign settlement.
In approaching from the north-westward, the course from Hike sima is
S.E. or S.E. E., according as it is passed on the East or West. Iwo sima
will be made without difficulty (appearing end on, and under the mountain
range Kawara yama, the highest on the Nagasaki peninsula), and should be
passed on the North at a mile, when Papenburg will be seen over the three
low islands outside Kamino sima.
There is little or no difficulty in getting into Nagasaki at night, if the
weather be fine, unless it be extremely dark, especially if Signal Head (or
the light if it is established) has been made; but should a vessel, from calms
or adverse winds, be unable to enter, every endeavour should be made to get
inside Papenburg if it be the intention to anchor, for outside this island
the water is inconveniently deep, and it would be preferable to stand off
and on till daylight, taking care not to decrease the soundings below 30
fathoms.
Anchorage can, however, be found in 20 to 26 fathoms over a bottom of
thick green oaze with fine sand, good holding ground, or possibly rock or
sand and shells if near the Hirase Rock. A vessel will lie here sheltered
from all winds except N.W., but exposed to the swell from that quarter.
There is also anchorage East of Papenburg and Kageno, in 13 to 17 fathoms,
or in 11 fathoms on a bank S. W. of Megami Point; the bottom here is mud
680
WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.
and the shelter good except from West. Towards the eastern shore the
ground is irregular and probably rocky.
EAST COAST OF NAGASAKI PENINSULA.-About 22 miles of the
eastern side of the Nagasaki peninsula has been surveyed. It has generally
a bold steep coast, but there are several places on it where a vessel blown to
leeward of Cape Nomo by West winds, will find anchorage and good shelter
from them.
Kabasima Bay, between Cape Nomo and Kabasima, the island 2 miles.
East of it, affords anchorage at its north-western part only open between S. E.
and S.W. The eastern part of the bay, where a long sandy beach is seen,
should be avoided, there being a sunken rock (Bay Rock), on which are 6 ft.
water with 4 and 6 fathoms about it.
Misaki Bay, North of Kabasima and East of the low jutting point and
sandy beach where stands the large village of Misaki affords anchorage in 7
to 11 fathoms. It is gained from the westward by rounding at not less than
2 cables distance, the South and S.E. points of Kabasima, the latter a steep
head, from which steer to pass outside a low reef (East Rocks) 1 mile N by
E. of that head, which being passed, steer N.W. W. into Misaki bay, and
anchor either in 10 fathoms East of the flat rocks, on which are seen a large
bamboo erection used by the fishermen, whose nets it will require care to
avoid.
Tameitsi Bay is 4 miles N.E. of Misaki. Steer for the village at its
head, and when Kabasima shuts in behind the southern point of the bay,
anchor in 10 fathoms or less, about 2 cables off shore. Sitziwura, a small
bay 2 miles farther N.E., has anchorage in 9 to 10 fathoms, at 2 cables
off shore.
Between Sitziwura and Mogi Bays, there are an islet and several large
reefs which extend 2 or 3 cables from the shore.
Small craft can
Mogi, another small bay, is 5½ miles N.E. of Tameitsi.
anchor in 3 to 6 fathoms, sheltered except from South to East; and larger
vessels in 9 to 11 fathoms off the entrance.
Aba Bay, 3 miles N.E. of Mogi, and 15 miles from Kabasima, is rectan-
gular in shape, 1 mile deep, and 1 mile in breadth. There is anchorage in
the centre of the bay in 7 fathoms, open only between South and S.E.
There is a boat camber at the village on the western side of the bay.
Maki sima, on the East side of Aba Bay, encloses on the N.E. a harbour
for small vessels, having 10 to 12 feet water, accessible by two narrow
passages.
SIMABARA GULF.-Of this large gulf, which extends 70 miles into the
heart of Kiusiu, little is known. Simabara is a large and broad peninsula,
so situated as to make this gulf an inland sea. On the eastern shore of the
peninsula there stands a city of the same name. In the centre of the penin-
AMAKUSA-KOSIKI ISLANDS.
681
su a is an active volcano, a not high but extended mountain, over which a
dark cloud of smoke usually rests. This is the focus of a wide volcanic re-
gion, and is associated with some of the severest earthquakes on record, one
of which, in 1793, was felt throughout the whole of Kiusiu, and is said to
have changed the configuration of the whole coast line of the adjoining pro-
vince of Higo, and the general form of its territory.
A rock, reported by Captain Stevens, of the steam-ship Filipino, lies at
the entrance of the gulf, and uncovers 5 feet at low water. It bears N. 20°
W. from the East extreme of Tsuji-sima, and N. 64° W. from the East ex-
treme of Oosima.
AMAKUSA, a large island 23 miles in length, lies S.S.W. of the Sima-
bara peninsula; between them is the western entrance to the gulf, only 2
miles in width. Two harbours, Tomioka and Kame ura on the western
coast of Amakusa, have been examined by the Dutch.
Tomioka, E. S. 14 miles from the South point of Kabasima, is a lagoon-
like harbour on the eastern side of a small peninsula, which forms the N.W.
point of Amakusa. The harbour is formed by a low tongue of land curving
round to the westward and enclosing it, giving complete shelter, the entrance
being from the S.E. by a channel carrying 5 fathoms water close along the
the South side of the low tree-covered tongue which forms the eastern side
of the harbour. A vessel may anchor in the centre of the harbour, in 6
fathoms.
Kame ura, on the West coast of Amakusa, 13 miles S. by W. of Tomioka,
is an inlet running in 5 miles West. There are three rocks north-
westward of the entrance, the two eastern of which are pinnacles, the
western low.
KOSIKI ISLANDS, consisting of two large and several small islands,
extend in a N.E. and S. W. direction from lat. 31° 37′ to 31° 53′ N., and
from long. 129° 41′ to 130° 0′ E. They are not high, but their appearance
is bold in passing. The Nadiejda Rocks off their West side are considered
to be about 4 miles from the shore, and 7 miles North of Haya saki, their
westernmost point.
The eastern point of Kamino Kosiki, the northern island, is distant about
13 miles from the coast of Kiusiu. Extending 24 miles eastward of it, are
several islets, the outer two of which are called Futako sima, the easternmost
being a pinnacle rock.
Pioneer Rocks.-H.M.S. Pioneer, in 1861, when passing inside the Kosiki
Islands, discovered two rocks lying 2 to 3 miles eastward of the eastern of
the two Futako islets, with Dasima saki bearing S.E. E. They are close
together, 10 to 12 feet above water, and dangerous from their smallness.
The Japanese manuscript chart also represents a rock or islet (the Kamome
sima) off the coast to the E.S.E., and a danger of some sort farther out; the
682
WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.
passage eastward of the Pioneer Rocks seems therefore one that should be
avoided at night or in bad weather, until more be known of it.
Taka Sima.-S. by E. 10 miles of Na saki, the South point of the Kosiki
group, are the Taka sima or Symplegades. They are described as three islets
forming a triangle, the sides of which are each not more than a cable in ex-
tent. A rock awash was observed lying a quarter of a mile southward
of the group.
The Tsukarase or Retribution Rocks, three in number, were discovered by
H.M.S. Retribution, August 6th, 1858. They lie in line North and South,
about 2 cables apart, in lat. 31° 20′ N., long. 129° 46′ E. The two southern-
most rocks rise in a needle form about 60 feet above the sea; the northern
rock is flat, and only 10 feet high.
Udsi sima, or Ryche Poncié Group,* consist of one island, with some rocks
and islets surrounding it. The island is 2 miles in circumference, the west-
ern part somewhat flat, but the eastern rising in a precipitous peak, to the
height of 1,060 feet above the sea. It is in lat 31° 12′ N., long. 129° 29′ E.
Two and a half and one mile respectively to the S.W. of the island are
two small islets; and to the eastward of its peak, about a mile, is another
islet.†
MEAC SIMA GROUP.-The relative positions of the Meac sima or Asses
Ears Group and Pallas Rocks, were determined by H.M.S. Saracen, in 1855.
The Meac sima, consisting of two islands, with intermediate smaller islands
and rocks, cover an extent of nearly 4 miles in a N.E. and S.W. direction.
The approach to them from the northward is quite clear. Between the
Asses Ears and Pallas Rocks the ground is pretty even, and the general
depth about 81 fathoms.
Taka Sima, the north-east island, is nearly 1 miles long, and three-
quarters of a mile wide. It is elevated 618 feet above the sea, and is
somewhat level at the top, with cliffy precipitous sides, excepting to the
southward.
Kusa-kaki, the S.W. island, is less than half the size of the N.E. island, but
100 feet higher and very craggy; its remarkable peak probably suggested
the name of the group to its first discoverers.
Me sima and Wo sima, the intermediate small islands and rocks, are high
and cliffy, the latter partaking generally of the sugar-loaf form.
* Thus named (and deservedly so, if a European name is admissible), after the Ingénieur-
hydrographe of the French Expedition under Admiral Cecille in 1846.
† The Udsi sima are high, and of considerable extent. The easternmost island appeared
larger and its position to be farther North than marked in the chart; no foul ground was
visible near them.-Stephen Court, Master of H.M.S. Furious, 1858.
PALLAS ROCKS.
683
The only outlying rocks noticed extend South about a third of a mile
from the south-west island, and may be almost considered part of the main
group.
PALLAS ROCKS are three in number, two of which lie close together,
and one N.E. 1½ cable from the largest, which is the south-western of the
group. The largest rock does not exceed a third of a cable in diameter, and
is about 60 feet high; the other two are about one half that elevation. They
are steep-to, and soundings were obtained at the distance of a mile South
from them, in 95 fathoms, sand and shells. The largest rock is in lat. 32°
14′ 17″ N., long. 128° 12′ 30' E.
DIRECTIONS.-When leaving the Yang-tse kiang for the Japan Islands,
if bound to Nagasaki, a course may at once be steered for Meac sima or Asses
Ears Group, the highest island of which is visible in clear weather upwards
of 30 miles. With the Asses Ears bearing South 8 miles, an E.N.E. course
for 75 miles will place a vessel off Signal Head, the North point of Iwo
sima, at the entrance of Nagasaki, which on near approach should not
be brought to bear northward of N.N.E. For entering Nagasaki, see
page 679.
The direct course from the Amherst Rocks to Nagasaki is E. by N. east-
erly 390 miles, and leads midway between the Pallas Rocks and Cape Goto;
but the danger of steering is, that the vessel in some part of her course must
pass across that arm of the Japan stream which sets through Korea
Strait into the Japan Sea, and experience a set which may carry her
to the northward of Cape Goto. The current will generally be found be-
tween the meridians of 125° and 127°, or even two degrees broader, its di-
rection N.E. by N., and its velocity from a quarter to three-quarters of a
knot per hour. It is evident, therefore, that its effect will be dependent on
the speed of the vessel, and also that if no sights can be obtained her posi-
tion will be uncertain within these limits.*
With these considerations the navigator must act on his own judgment,
there being only difficulty in making the passage, when baffling winds, and
* Mr. J. S. Compton, Master of H.M.S. Renard, states that he found the current between
Nagasaki and Shanghai set generally with the wind. Mr. J. H. Lawrence, Master of
H.M.S. Pearl, records a set of 24 miles, N.E. by N., on June 29, 1862, and N. by E. 19
miles the next day, nearer to Kiusiu.
684
WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.
with a fair wind, which it may be almost surely inferred will be but of short
duration. There is great probability that a vessel kept on the starboard
tack would be set over to the Korean Archipelago.
If bound from the southern ports of China, or from the eastward of For-
mosa, a direct course should be steered for Nagasaki, there being good sea-
room (70 miles) between the Meac sima and Udsi sima, but precaution should
be taken in the latter case against being set to the eastward by the strong
current through Van Diemen Strait.
Through KOREA STRAIT.—If bound on to Hakodati at the same season
or even as late as the end of June, it will be found difficult with a sailing
vessel to make easting at all along the West coast of Nipon. It will be ad-
vantageous to pass well East of Tsu sima in the strength of the Japan
Stream which sets N.E. by North through the Korea Strait, attaining at
times, although not constant, a velocity of 2 knots an hour. Should a
S.W. wind occur at this season, it may be expected to last only 24 hours,
unless it follow an easterly gale with depressed barometer. If the
weather at the time be very fine, and, instead, be followed by a calm and
falling barometer, a cyclone of more or less violence and duration may
be expected, lasting from one to seven days. It sets in with an East or
south-east wind, accompanied by dirty weather, and generally shifts sud-
denly to South or north-west. Easting should, therefore, be made whenever
possible.
During the winter, gales from North and N.W. are very frequent in the
Korea Strait, lasting three or four days, and are sometimes violent. A
rapidly falling barometer indicates their approach, the wind increasing in
force after the mercury commences to rise, and not attaining its height
until 24 hours after. In such weather, if making for Nagasaki on the port.
tack, beware of being blown to leeward into Van Diemen Strait, for if set
through by the Japan stream, it will take a long time to regain the lost
ground against the current (one vessel having been nearly three weeks.
endeavouring to beat round Cape Chichakoff); and if on the starboard tack,
there is probability of being set up the Korea Strait to the northward of
Cape Goto. As both cases have happened to vessels, it is recommended that
they should endeavour to make the land in daylight, and find anchorages, or
secure a knowledge of their position.
In winter, when N.W. and West winds prevail, a direct caurse should be
steered from the Korea Strait when bound to Hakodate; but if bound from
thick, rainy and squally weather are met with in the vicinity of the Meac sima,
the Pallas, or the Goto Islands, or they are passed on dark nights. If not
therefore sure of the vessel's position, it would be well to make them in the
day time, unless the nights are moderately fine.
During the periodic easterly winds, which prevail from March to June,
with a sailing vessel, every opportunity must be taken to make easting, even
NAGASAKI TO THE INLAND SEA.
685
Hakodate southward, it is necessary to endeavour to make westing when
possible, and keep a long offing, for the coast of Nipon is a lee shore. After
passing Korea Strait as well to windward as possible, the winds will be
found more liable to change when arrived at lat 32° N., long. 125° E., but
sometimes they continue so steadily between N.W. and W.S.W., as to set a
vessel to leeward of the Yang-tse.
NAGASAKI to the INLAND SEA.-In passing through the archipelago
which encircles the western coast of Kiusiu, there are not more islands than
just sufficient as good marks in thick weather. Their coasts are bold ; an-
chorages abound and can be safely run for almost everywhere; and an offing
may generally be made before nightfall, should that or the approach of
thick or stormy weather render it desirable. The tides are regular within
the islands. Outside, the north-east stream is almost constant in the
offing.
If proceeding outside Hirado, after leaving Nagasaki, steer N.W., unless
wishing to pass outside Hiki sima. A run of 16 miles will place a ship
abreast that island, and a further run of 13 miles on the same course will
lead up mid-channel between Otate and Yenoi sima, from which position a
N.N.W. course for 11 miles will reach the islets off the S.W. point of Hi-
rado. Pass a mile outside these islets, and also of the Aska sima 3 miles
North of them, unless intending to take the Obree channel (page 668), in
which case pass inside the Aska sima, and steer directly for it.
Coasting Hirado and Ikutski on a N.N.E. course, a run of 12½ miles from
Aska sima, will place a vessel off the North point of Ikutski; then steer
N.E. by E. for 7 miles until past the small rock off the north-western face of
Atsusi no Oosima, which, if not seen, may be cleared by keeping Madara
quite open to the westward of Atsusi on passing. An E.N.E. course will
now lead direct to Wilson Island distant 52 miles, passing 2 miles north-
westward of Madara, of Yebosi, and of the Swain Reef, and when Wilson
Island is well risen, shape the course to pass to the westward of it.
If at night, it were better to steer from Yebosi such a course as would give
Swain Reef a wider berth, being careful lest the eastern tidal stream into the
strait of Simonoseki, which sets rather strongly through the channels East of
Wilson Island, should saddle the vessel on to that reef.
THROUGH SPEX STRAIT.—The inner passage from Nagasaki to the
Inland Sea by Spex or Hirado Strait, is 15 miles less in distance than that
outside Hirado, but it is seldom that a vessel is not obliged to anchor some-
where for the night. From the entrance of Nagasaki, steer N.W., as
before, to pass between the pinnacle rocks of Hiki and Sumo, and round
the western side of all the groups North of Hiki; then shape the course
North to N. by E. to pass eastward of Kuro sima, and four beautifully
cultivated islands to the North of it, lying in the southern entrance to Spex
Strait.
686
WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.
When abreast of Kuro sima, and distant about half a mile, steer N. by
W. W. until Table mountain, a remarkable flat-topped mountain some
distance back from the shore of Kiusiu, bears E. & S. If this course is made
good, it will carry you clear of Robinet Rock and midway between it and
the Kiusiu shore. Do not bring the northern Kareki Islet to bear to the
southward of S.S.W. W. till Table mountain bears East. When Table
mountain bears E. S., steer N. by E. E., till abreast of the anchorage of
Kawatchi, when Red Cliff will be plainly seen, then steer about N.E. by N.
to pass around Red Cliff, keeping will over to the eastern side of the channel.
Keep along the eastern shore, a cable and a half distant, till around Low
Point, and abreast of Kuro-ko sima.
When abreast of Kuro-ko sima, to avoid Vineta Rock steer directly for
Rocky Island or the rocks awash, taking care to keep Rocky Island well
open to the left of the rocks awash and Low Point to the eastward of S. by
E. E. When Furasato Saki bears about S.E. E., steer so as to pass at
least one cable to the eastward of the rocks awash. In going South through
the straits, steer directly for Kuro-ko sima, heading about S. by W. W.,
and keeping it to the southward of S.S.W. W. till Furasato Saki bears
about West, when steer for Low Point and through the rest of the strait the
same as in coming to the "northward.
Four-foot rock at the southern end of the strait is easily seen and re-
cognized.
Vineta Rock, so named from H.P.M. ship Vineta striking on it, has 15 feet
water on it at low water. It is the only known danger, and is important.
from being directly in the fairway through the strait.
The two dangers, marked E.D., probably do not exist, as the U.S.S. Mono-
cacy's boats were unable to find them.
Robinet Rock, which is only two-thirds to three-quarters of a mile N. by
E. E. from the North Kareki, can also be avoided by keeping in mid-
channel between Hirado Sima and the Kareki Islets.
Vineta Rock can also be safely passed to the eastward by keeping well
towards the main land of Kiusiu on a course of N. E., after passing close
to Low Point, until the North point of Furasato Saki bears S.E. by E.,
when the danger will be passed. But as this channel is narrow, the
other is thought to be preferable.-(Lieut.-Commander S. A. Mc Carty,
U.S.N., 1867.)
When clear of the northern entrance of the strait, the course along the
land is N.E. by E. to Hato saki, distant 17 miles, steering for the clump
beyond it which is on the East bluff of Ogawa, the eastern of the three
islands North of Hato saki and Yobuko, and passing between the bluff and
the Passage rocks. The same course will lead well outside the Dove and
Ellis Reefs, which are 3 miles off shore, and may both be covered, and out-
side but rather close to the Swain Reef.
THE JAPANESE CURRENT.
687
Another track may be pursued from Spex Strait, steering from it on a
N.E. E. course to pass between Madara and Kagara, and rounding the
N.W. point of the latter at a mile; from this a N.E. by E. E. course will
lead up close to the West point of Wilson Island, passing half a mile out-
side Yebosi.
*
3
Should the passage have been made by the Korea Strait, after rounding
the North point of Iki, an E. N. course may be steered for the Siro
simas at the entrance of the Inland Sea, passing well northward of Orono
sima with a clear run of 55 miles. The tidal streams here are not very well
known.
The JAPANESE CURRENT.-In the chapter devoted to the currents this
remarkable stream will be more particularly described in its extent, but a
few words here will form a fitting conclusion to this description of the Japan
Archipelago.
On the Japanese charts the current is noticed as passing eastward off the
S.E. coast of Nipon, and is called Kuro Siwo, or the Black Stream, or Kuro-
segawa, the current of the Black Gulf. It was noticed by all early naviga-
tors, and more extended observation has shown its exact analogy with the
Gulf Stream of the Atlantic. The following is from the China Pilot.
The Kuro Siwo, or Japan Stream, is an immense oceanic current, which
from observations appears to have its origin in the great equatorial current
of the Pacific, from which ocean it is separated by the South end of Formosa.
The larger portion of this current, when it reaches the point just named,
passes off into the China Sea; while the other part is deflected to the north-
ward along the eastern coast of Formosa until reaching the parallel of 26°
N., when it bears off to the northward and eastward, washing the whole
S.E. coasts of Japan, and increasing in strength as it advances to a limit
which appears to be variable.
Near its origin the stream is contracted, and is usually confined between
Formosa and the Meiaco-sima group, with a width of nearly 100 miles; but
to the northward of the latter it rapidly expands on its southern limit, and
reaches the Lu-chu and Bonin Islands, attaining a width to the northward
of the latter of about 400 miles. Its average maximum temperature is 86°,
which differs about 12° from that of the ocean due to the latitude. The north-
western edge of the stream is strongly marked by a sudden thermal change
in the water of from 10° to 20°; but the southern and eastern limit is less
distinctly defined, there being a gradual thermal approximation of the air
and water.
Along the borders of the stream, where it chafes against the counter
currents and torpid waters of the ocean, as also in its midst, where whirls
and eddies are produced by islands and the inequalities in its bed, strong
tide rips are encountered, often resembling heavy breakers on reefs or shoals.
688
WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.
Its average velocity between the South end of Formosa and Tsugar Strait
has been found to be from 35 to 40 miles in 24 hours.
This current is, however, much influenced, both in direction and velocity,
by local causes. It is sometimes* entirely checked for a day by a N.E. wind;
when it may be again expected to resume its former course, and possibly run
with greater rapidity than usual for one or two days. One one occasion, off
the Gulf of Yedo, its maximum strength is recorded as high as 72, 74, and
80 miles respectively, on three successive days. But at other times some
observations have shown results greatly at variance with the generally re-
ceived accounts of it.
According to Captain Charles Bullock, R.N., a branch of the Kuro Siwo
holds on its N.E. by N. course from Formosa, though with mitigated strength,
and passes through the Korea Strait into the Japan Sea, having split
upon the South point of Tsu sima. From this it becomes very uncertain
and variable in force and direction, sometimes stretching northwards to
Dagelet at the rate of 2 knots per hour, at other times it appears quite
dissipated; still there is much reason to suppose it holds its way on to the
Strait of Tsugar, through which it is again observed flowing steadily into
the Pacific.
* But not always, H.M.S. Centaur, in August, 1861, having been drifted 53 miles in 24
hours, in the face of a strong E.N.E. gale, between 136° and 137° E.
+ The current seems to attain its greatest velocity between Van Diemen Strait and
the Gulf of Yedo, but was recorded on one occasion as only 24 to 27 miles on three suc-
cessive days. It is sometimes deflected to the South by the chain of islands South off the
Gulf, or before reaching them. Changes in the stream will probably be found dependent
on the seasons.
( 689 )
SECTION III.
THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
In the companion volume to this-that describing the South Pacific Ocean-
allusion has been made to the imperfect notion that is given by inspecting a
map, of the importance and relative size of the innumerable islands which
are scattered over these oceans. In many instances the minute coral spot,
which makes a considerable feature on the chart, could not be visibly repre-
sented of its proper dimensions; and this exaggeration is enhanced by the
several names by which it is distinguished, which seem to add to its size and
area. By far the greater number of islets are of this coral formation. A
few of the well known groups are volcanic, lofty, and of considerable dimen-
sions; but the aggregate area of the dry land of the coral islands is re-
markably small. In most instances it is a mere strip surrounding the central
lagoon, but of surpassing fertility, and supporting an immense population in
proportion to the actual area.
With a large proportion of the groups we are sufficiently intimate to
affirm that they are tolerably well represented; but in the greatest number
of instances they have not been so accurately surveyed as they ought to be,
and the sameness of their character renders this remark of the more im-
portance, as it is difficult in many instances to distinguish between small
spots which so much resemble each other. In the ensuing lists and descrip-
tions we have stated the authority on which the descriptions and the geogra-
phical position depend.*
As the structure, growth, and foundation of the coral islands is among the
most wonderful of all natural problems, we give here some extracts from the
* In this edition it has not been thought necessary to repeat the quotations of the autho-
rities which were given in extenso in the first edition. To that work we, therefore, refer the
reader who may be interested in the history of the hydrography of the Pacific.
North Pacific.
2 Y
690
THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
work of Charles Darwin, Esq., who, while he accompanied the late Admiral
FitzRoy in the expedition in the Beagle, accumulated those stores of know-
ledge which he has made such abundant use of in later years. We confine
the extracts strictly to those remarks bearing on the structure of the coral
islands.
Mr. Darwin says:-I will now give a very brief account of the three great classes of
coral reefs, namely, Atolls, Barrier, and r'ringing Reefs, and will explain my views on their
formation. Almost every voyager who has crossed the Pacific has expressed his unbounded
astonishment at the lagoon islands, or as I shall for the future call them by their Indian
name of Atolls, and has attempted some explanation. Even as long ago as the year 1605,
Pyrard de Laval well exclaimed, "C'est une meruille de voir chacun de ces atollons,
enuironné d'un grand banc de pierre tout autour, n'y ayant point d'artifice humain.” The
immensity of the ocean, the fury of the breakers, contrasted with the lowness of the land
and the smoothness of the bright green water within the lagoon, can hardly be imagined
without having been seen.
In previous theories a most important consideration has been overlooked, namely, on what
have the reef building corals, which cannot live at a great depth, based their massive struc-
tnres.
Numerous soundings were carefully taken by Captain FitzRoy on the steep outside of
Keeling atoll, and it was found that within 10 fathoms the prepared tallow at the bottom of
the lead invariably came up marked with the impression of living corals, but as perfectly
clean as if it had dropped on a carpet of turf; as the depth increased the impressions became
less numerous, but the adhering particles of sand more and more numerous, until at last it
was evident that the bottom consisted of a smooth sandy layer; to carry on the analogy of
the turf, the blades of grass grew thinner and thinner, till at last the soil was so sterile that
nothing sprang from it. From these observations, confirmed by many others, it may be
safely inferred that the utmost depth at which the corals can construct reefs is between 20
and 30 fathoms. Now there are enormous areas in the Pacific and Indian Oceans, in which
every single island is of coral formation, and is raised only to that height to which the waves
can throw up fragments, and the winds pile up sand.
From the fact of the reef-building corals not living at great depths, it is absolutely cer-
tain that throughout vast areas, wherever there is now an atoll, a foundation must have
originally existed within a depth of from 20 to 30 fathoms from the surface.
It is impro-
bable in the highest degree that broad, lofty, isolated, steep-sided banks of sediment,
arranged in groups and lines hundreds of leagues in length, could have been deposited in
the central and profoundest parts of the Pacific and Indian Oceans at an immense distance
from any continent, and where the water is quite limpid. It is equally improbable that the
elevatory forces should have uplifted, throughout the above vast areas, innumerable great
rocky banks within 20 to 30 fathoms, or 120 to 180 feet of the surface of the sea, and not one
single point above that level; for where, on the whole face of the globe, can we find a single
chain of mountains, even a few hundred miles in length, with their many summits rising
within a few feet of a given level, and not one pinnacle above it? If, then, the foundations
whence the atoll-building corals spring, were not formed of sediment, and if they were not
lifted up to the required level, they must of necessity have subsided into it; and this at once
solves the difficulty. For as mountain after mountain, and island after island, slowly
sank beneath the water, fresh bases would be successively afforded for the growth of the
corals.
Before explaining how atoll reefs acquire their perpendicular structure, we must turn to
THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
691
the second great class, namely, Barrier Reefs. These either extend in straight lines in front
of the shores of a continent or of a large island, or they encircle smaller islands; in both
cases being separated from the land by a broad and rather deep channel of water, analogous
to the lagoon within an atoll. It is remarkable how little attention has been paid to encir-
cling barrier reefs, yet they are truly wonderful structures. In the Island of Bola-Bola the
whole line of reef has been converted into land; but usually a snow-white line of great
breakers, with only here and there a single low islet crowned with cocoa-nut trees, divides
the dark heaving waters of the ocean from the light green expanse of the lagoon channel.
And the quiet waters of this channel generally bathe a fringe of low alluvial soil loaded with
the most beautiful productions of the tropics, and lying at the foot of the wild, abrupt, cen-
tral mountains. Encircling barrier reefs are of all sizes, from 3 miles to no less than 44
miles in diameter; that which fronts one side, and encircles both ends of New Caledonia
is 400 miles long. The depth within the lagoon channel also varies much: from 10 to 13
fathoms may be taken as an average; but at Vanikoro there are spaces no less than 56 fa-
thoms, or 336 feet deep. Internally the reef either slopes gently into the lagoon channel,
or ends in a perpendicular wall sometimes between 200 or 300 feet under water in height;
externally the reef rises, like an atoll, with extreme abruptness out of the profound depths
of the ocean. What can be more singular than these structures? We see an island, which
may be compared to a castle situated on the summit of a lofty submarine mountain, pro-
tected by a great wall of coral rock, always steep externally, and sometimes internally, with
a broad level summit, here and there breached by narrow gateways, through which the
largest ship can enter the wide and deep encircling moat.
As far as the actual reef of coral is concerned there is not the smallest difference in general
size and outline, grouping, and even in quite trifling details of structure, in a barrier and an
atoll. The geographer Balbi has well remarked that an encircled island is an atoll, with
high land rising out of its lagoon: remove the land, and a perfect atoll is left.
But what has caused these reefs to spring up at such great distances from the shores of
the included islands? It cannot be that the corals will not grow close to the land; for the
shores within the lagoon channel, when not surrounded by alluvial soil, are often fringed
by living reefs; and we shall presently see that there is a whole class, which I have called
Fringing Reefs, from their close attachment to the shores both of continents and of islands.
Again, on what have the reef-building corals, which cannot live at great depths, based their
encircling structures? This is a great apparent difficulty, analogous to that in the case of
atolls, which has generally been overlooked.
On what are these barrier reefs based? Are we to suppose that each island is surrounded
by a collar-like submarine ledge of rock, or by a great bank of sediment ending abruptly
where the reef ends? If the sea had formerly eaten deeply into the islands before they
were protected by the reefs, thus having left a shallow ledge round them under water, the
present shores would have invariably been bounded by great precipices; but this is very
rarely the case. Moreover, on this notion, it is not possible to explain why the corals
should have sprung up, like a wall, from the extreme outer margin of the ledge, often
leaving a broad space of water within, too deep for the growth of corals. The accumulation
of a wide bank of sediment all around these islands, and generally widest where the in-
cluded islands are smallest, is highly improbable, considering their exposed positions in the
central and deepest parts of the ocean. On what then are these barrier reefs based? Why,
with their wide and deep moat-like channels, do they stand so far from the included land?
We shall soon see how these difficulties disappear.
We come now to the third class of fringing reefs, which will require a very short notice.
Where the land slopes abruptly under water, these reefs are only a few yards in width,
2 Y 2
692
THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
forming a mere ribbon or fringe round the shores; where the land slopes gently under the
water, the reef extends further, sometimes as much as a mile from the land; but in such
cases the soundings outside the reef always show that the submarine prolongation of the
land is gently inclined. In fact, the reefs extend only to that distance from the shore at
which a foundation within the requisite depth, from 20 to 30 fathoms, is found. As far as
the actual reef is concerned, there is no essential difference between it and that forming a
barrier or an atoll; it is, however, generally of a less width, and consequently few islets
have been formed on it. From the corals growing more vigorously on the outside, and
from the noxious effect of the sediment washed inwards, the outward edge of the reef is
the highest part, and between it and the land there is generally a shallow sandy channel
a few feet in depth. Where banks of sediment have accumulated near to the surface, as in
parts of the West Indies, they sometimes become fringed with corals, and hence in some
degree resemble lagoon islands or atolls; in the same manner as fringing reefs, surround-
ing gently sloping islands, in some degree resemble barrier reefs.
No theory on the formation of coral reefs can be considered satisfactory which does not
include the three great classes. We have seen that we are driven to believe in the sub-
sidence of those vast areas, interspersed with low islands, of which not one rises above the
height to which the wind and waves can throw up matter, and yet constructed by animals
requiring a foundation, and that foundation to lie at no great depth. Let us, then, take an
island surrounded by fringing reefs, which offer no difficulty in their structure, and let this
island with its reef slowly subside. Now, as the island sinks down, either a few feet at a
time or quite insensibly, we may safely infer, from what is known of the conditions favour-
able to the growth of coral, that the living masses, bathed by the surf on the margin of
the reef, will soon regain the surface. The water, however, will encroach a little by little
on the shore, the island becoming lower and smaller, and the space between the inner edge
of the reef and the beach proportionably broader. Coral islets are supposed to have been
formed on the reef; and a ship is anchored in the lagoon channel. This channel will be
more or less deep, according to the rate of subsidence, to the amount of sediment accumu-
lated in it, and to the growth of the delicately branch corals which can live there. We
can now see why encircling barrier reefs stand so far from the shores which they front.
We can also perceive that a line drawn perpendicularly down from the outer edge of the
new reef to the foundation of solid rock beneath the old fringing reef will exceed, by as
many feet as there have been feet of subsidence, that small limit of depth at which the
effective corals can live; the little architects have built up their great wall-like mass, as
the whole sank down, upon a basis formed of other corals and their consolidated fragments.
Thus the difficulty on this head, which appeared so great, disappears.
If instead of an island we had taken the shore of a continent fringed with reefs, and
have imagined it to have subsided, a great straight barrier, like that of Australia or New
Caledonia, separated from the land by a wide and deep channel, would evidently have been
the result.
Let us take our new encircling barrier reef, and let it go on subsiding. As the barrier
reef slowly sinks down, the corals will go on vigorously growing upwards; but as the
island sinks, the water will gain inch by inch on the shore, the separate mountains first
forming separate islands with one great reef, and finally the last and highest pinnacle dis-
appearing. The instant this takes place a perfect atoll is formed. I have said, remove the
high land from within an encircling barrier reef and an atoll is left, and the land has been
removed. We can now perceive how it comes that atolls, having sprung from encircling
barrier reefs, resemble them in general size, form in the manner in which they are grouped
together, and in their arrangement in single or double lines; for they may be called rude
outline charts of the sunken island over which they stand. We can further see how it
THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
693
arises that the atolls in the Pacific and Indian Oceans extend in lines parallel to the pre-
vailing strike of the high island and great coast lines of those oceans. I venture, therefore,
to affirm, that on the theory of the upward growth of the corals during the sinking of the
land, all the leading features in those wonderful structures, the lagoon islands or atolls,
which have so long excited the attention of voyagers, as well as in the no less wonderful
barrier reefs, whether encircling small islands or stretching for hundreds of miles along the
shores of a continent, are simply explained.
The arrangement of the following pages is similar to that pursued in the
volume on the South Pacific, viz., the islands and groups are described in
belts of latitude, each 10° in width, and proceed from the eastern side to
the western side of the ocean in succession, commencing in this work with
the Equator.
( 694 )
CHAPTER XII.
ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.
FOLLOWING the plan adopted in the South Pacific Directory, we commence
from the coast of America, and include in this chapter the group of islands,
the Gilbert Archipelago, which lie on the Equator, the Marshall Archipe-
lago to the North of it, and the Caroline Archipelago, lying within the
same belt of latitude.
MALPELO ISLAND, in lat. 4° 3' N., long. 81° 36′ W., according to Com-
mander Aldham, H.M.S. Swift, July 22, 1851, is a barren, high, perpendi-
cular rock, which may be seen in clear weather at the distance of 20 leagues,
the summit being 1,200 feet above the sea level. A small quantity of green
moss, and a few dwarf bushes, which grow in its cracks and gulleys, afford
the only verdure that it possesses. It is surrounded with islets, and the
whole may extend about 9 or 10 miles from North to South. The centre of
this island bears a resemblance, in several points of view, to the crown of a
head, and its being barren accounts naturally enough for the name (bald
head) which the Spaniards have bestowed on it. It is surrounded, as it
were, by a strong current, having much the appearance of breakers, which,
setting into the gulf, and, being accompanied by light winds, with thick and
hazy weather, Colnett did not think it deserving of any further attention.
The current was found to set N.E. by E. 2 miles an hour. Another state-
ment is made that they run violently to the southward and westward near it,
a difference possibly owing to the different seasons they have been observed
in. Colnett's was in July, 1793. The rock itself has 40 fathoms alongside
of it, and 110 fathoms at a quarter of a mile distant.
RIVADENEYRA SHOAL.-"Being on board the steamer Peru, abreast
of Puná, October 22, 1842, and hearing that there was a terrible yellow fever
raging at Guayaquil, the steamer put back, and I was placed on board a
small schooner going to Realejo. On the 28th, in the middle of the day,
the sea calm, we had caught a large turtle, when I observed at a few
fathoms off a slight swell on the sea; we took the boat and went to it, when
we sounded, and, to our astonishment, found only 16 feet (French?) of
COCOS ISLAND.
695
water. In the centre of this circular spot was only 10 feet depth; we then
found 14, 16, 27, 56 feet, and then no bottom. By our very imperfect in-
struments we made it to be in lat. 4° 15′ N., long. 85° 10′ W. of Greenwich;
but this we considered nearly correct, as we hastened on to Realejo."
The existence of this bank has been in some degree confirmed by the
enquiries of Captain Lapelin, in the French corvette La Brillante, in 1852.
He ascertained that several vessels had struck on it, but did not gain any
information as to the correctness of the position assigned. Captain Harvey,
of H.M.S. Havannah, passed within 4 miles of the place in July, 1857, with-
out seeing anything of it.
COCOS ISLAND.-The discovery of this island is involved in obscurity.
It is mentioned as being well known by early navigators, Lionel Wafer,
Dampier, &c. Its more exact position and character appear to have been
first ascertained by the Spanish exploring ships, the Descubierta and Atrevida,
in 1791. It was then visited, and, it is stated, surveyed, by Captain Colnett
in 1793. In 1795 it was visited by Vancouver, who also examined it. There
are some singular discrepancies in the accounts given by these different
visitors, more particularly in those of the two last named. Vancouver states
it to be 41 miles in length N.E. and S.W., while Colnett states it to be 12
miles; and the respective plans given also coincide with the descriptions.
These discrepancies were decided in Vancouver's favour by Sir Edw. Belcher
in 1838. He places the observatory at the head of Chatham Bay, at the
N.E. part of the island, in lat. 5° 32′ 57″ N., long. 86° 58' 22" W.
The island, according to Mr. Whidbey's account, is about 4 leagues in
circuit, with several detached rocks and islets scattered around its shores.
Off the S.W. point they extend to the greatest distance, nearly 2 miles, and
would be dangerous if they were not sufficiently high to be seen and
avoided.
The island itself is very high, sufficiently so to be seen at more than 20
leagues distant; and Vancouver says that he lost sight of it at 46 miles
W.N.W., not from sinking below the horizon, but from being obscured by
haze. The West side is the highest, showing in the form of a round hill,
descending the northern extremity, which appears like a detached islet when
bearing to the eastward. From this quarter the southern part appears to
rise abruptly from the sea, in steep rugged cliffs, to a considerable height.
The northern side is indented into small bays, with rocks and islets lying
near them. The shores are chiefly composed of broken cliffy perpendicular
precipices, beyond which the surface rises unevenly to the summit of the
island, the whole composed of one rude connected thicket of small trees, near
the shore; but on the more elevated and interior parts of the island are
many large spreading trees, among which are cocoa-nut trees, but not in such
abundance as to distinguish the island.
696 ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.
The one great advantage which Cocos Island offers, is the abundance of
fresh water. Apparently it is quite pure, and is very easily to be procured
at those points to which vessels can resort. Fish are abundant around the
shores, but would not take bait; sharks in large shoals, and very voracious,
are among the number. Fowl of the oceanic kind visit the island, and
afford tolerable food. The cocoa-nuts, also, have been of great service to
earlier navigators.* All the trees for fuel have been cut, and there are no
cocoa-nut trees remaining which are accessible. Pigs are abundant.
Chatham Bay is the easternmost anchorage on the island. Vancouver
moored here in 33 fathoms, sand and gravel, good holding ground and free
from rocks. The East point of the bay, which is a small conical islet close
to the N.E. extreme of the island, bears N. 51° E., half a mile distant;
West point of the bay, S. 75° W.; a steep rocky islet lying off it from S.
87° W. to N. 66° W.; and the watering place at the mouth of a very fine
stream emptying itself over a sandy beach, S. 13° W., about three-quarters
of a mile distant. Outside this the water deepens almost immediately. This
bay is quite open to the North, and Colnett states that though he found the
prevalent winds to be from South and West, he had it frequently strong from
N.E. and North.
Wafer Bay, as it is named in Colnett's plan, is to the westward of the
former, and 1 mile distant from the N.E. point; it may be easily known by
a small rugged barren rock, about the size of a large boat, bearing West of
the body of the bay about 5 or 6 miles. The bay also lies East and West,
but is not adapted for vessels of above 200 tons; it is nearly sheltered from
all winds. Vancouver says it is certainly not so eligible a situation for pro-
curing the good things the island affords as the bay to the eastward, although
a more copious stream of water flows into it.
The climate of the island is humid. Vancouver considered it (January)
temperate and salubrious, but had heavy rains. Colnett, who stayed longer,
experienced almost constant and very heavy rain. Flies, too, were very
abundant and annoying.
The tide is an important object in anchoring here. The time of high
water is about 2h 10m, rising and falling from 16 to 18 feet. The ebb sets
to the East at the rate of 4 or 5 knots. The flood, which is weaker, runs to
the West. They are uninfluenced by currents. The current around is
strong and irregular, but generally setting to the north-eastward at the rate
of 2 knots. †
* Colnett states that his men drank an excessive quantity of the milk, which did not in-
toxicate, but so benumbed them that they were unable to move without assistance; this
continued for four or five days.—Voyage to the South Seas, pp. 67-8.
† Doubtful IslANDS.—Of Gallego Island, in lat. 1º 8′ N., long. 104° W., nothing is
known.
Duncan Island, discovered in 1787, it is said, by Captain Duncan, in a merchant vessel.
WALKER ISLANDS-CHRISTMAS ISLAND.
697
WALKER ISLANDS.-A wide extent of ocean intervenes in this belt of
latitude between the positions of the foregoing islands and that of the
isolated cluster which are named as above. From a notice preserved by
Mr. Purdy, they were discovered by Captain Walker, in 1814, and consist of
a group of small, low, and well-wooded islands. Their lat. is 3° 34' N.,
long. 149° 15′ W. On some charts they are marked as Low Woody Islands.
JARVIS ISLAND.-Although this island is to the South of the equator,
it is so connected with the groups which are next described, that we give it
a place here. It was discovered by Captain Brown, of the English ship
Eliza Francis, August 21st, 1821. At it was surveyed by the Peacock and
Flying-fish of Comm. Wilkes, U.S. Exploring Expedition, December, 1840,
the position then ascertained must be preferred to others, lat. 0° 22′ 33″ S.,
long. 159° 54′ 11" W. Wilkes describes it as a small coral island, trian-
gular in shape, 12 mile East and West, and a mile North and South. No
reef surrounds it, and it may therefore be safely approached, but it was con-
sidered very dangerous.
It is one of the islands worked by the American Guano Company, and the
description given by Mr. J. D. Hague shows that it is a raised coral island,
the interior lagoon having disappeared, and its bed being now 7 or 8 feet
above the sea, with many marks indicating the gradual retreat of the sea.
The guano found on it differs from that of other islands from this cause;
much of it contains sulphate of lime (gypsum), which is supposed to arise
from the action of the evaporating salt water on the coral rock. There is
but very little vegetation on it. The vessels which come here for the guano
moor to mooring-buoys in very deep water, in the same manner as at Baker
Island.
It is certainly the same as Bunker Island, and perhaps as no mention is
otherwise made of it, as Brooke Island, placed in 1° 13′ S., long. 159° 40′ W.
The other authorities generally place Jarvis Island somewhat to the West of
Captain Wilkes's longitude.
CHRISTMAS ISLAND, a coral lagoon island, was discovered by Captain
Cook, in the Resolution and Discovery, on Wednesday, December 24th, 1777.
He remained there till January 2nd ensuing, and observed an eclipse of the
sun, and from the season gave it the name. It is, like all other islands of
the same nature, a belt of low land, enclosing a lagoon, which, however, in
this case is very shallow. It is so low that the land cannot be seen more
than 8 or 10 miles off. The entrance into the lagoon is on the N.W. side,
and was divided into two channels, fit only for boats, by a small island, on
He says the island is small and rocky, in lat. 6° N., long. 106° W. Admiral Krusenstern
says it is probably the same island as L'Ile de la Passion, in 16° 54′ N., 106° W.
698 ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.
which Cook landed his instruments, and planted some cocoa-nuts, yams, and
melon seeds. Here he also left a memorial of his visit.
The low land is covered with stunted bushes, and a few cocoa-nut and
palm trees here and there. From the S.E. to the N.W. points of the island
Cook says the coast runs N.W. by W. 2 W. 25 miles, but Captain Hooper
found that the land had much extended, and that the island was much larger
than previously represented. A deep bay, however, runs to the northward
from a point of land about 13 miles from the S.E. point, near which are
two conspicuous cocoa-nut trees, bearing about N.E. by E., true, when in
one with the point. Close to the S.W. point are two or three groves of
cocoa-nut trees (which from the sea appear as one), planted by Capt. Cook
on its discovery. From the S.W. point the land trends N.E., true, 4 miles,
forming a small bay, in the N.E. part of which is anchorage, half or three-
quarters of a mile from the shore, sand and coral, 9, 8, 7, and 6 fathoms.
No turtle were seen by Capt. Scott, September, 1840, although Cook found
an abundance. From the N.E. point of this bay the land appears to run
away East into a narrow bight, and then trends to the W.N.W. in a slip,
terminating in the N.W. point, which bears nearly North 7 miles from the
S.W. point.
The island does not afford any fresh water. Cook's party dug without
success in several parts of it, consequently it is uninhabited, except by flocks
of sea-birds, who here lay their eggs under the low trees in parts of the
island. They also caught abundance of fish. Though a vessel on its shore
may be seen from most parts of it, it was still large enough for some of
Cook's sailors to lose themselves on it, and to be recovered only after great
privations.
In November, 1857, a lumber barque J. C. Fremont was wrecked in the
large bay on the East side of the island, and Captain Hooper went to seek
it in the brig John Dunlap and schooner Dolphin, in 1858. He says:-
"On the S.W. point of the island is a grove of cocoa-nut trees, numbering
perhaps six hundred; on the North side of the bay and lagoon are two or
three clusters, and one towards the S.E. point. The most distant clusters
cannot be seen the one from the other, as they are 25 miles apart, and the
island is much larger than it is generally supposed to be. In the large S.E.
bay, where so many wrecks occur, there is no anchorage; the water is very
deep close to the shore, with a strong tide and surf setting on it. The land
is not over 10 ft. above the sea level in any part, and cannot be seen from a
ship's deck more than 8 to 10 miles off. Navigators should, therefore, be
cautious in approaching it.
"A singular circumstance noticed was that the fish, in the large lagoon
near which the camps were erected, were all dead, and in passing over the
water in a boat they could be seen at the bottom; also on the lee shore of
this lake the fish were piled up in a state of preservation; on being broken
FANNING ISLAND.
699
in two they were as sweet and wholesome as possible. The water of this
lake is extremely salt, and stronger than any pickle ever used in curing fish
or meat."
Captain Scott, R.N., H.M.S. Samarang, 1840, confirms Cook's position of
the island. Cook places the small islet in lat. 1° 59′ N., long. 157° 30′ W.
According to Captain Scott, its S.E. point is in lat. 1° 40′ 34″ N., long.
157° 13′ 53″; S.W. point, lat. 1° 51' 54" N., long. 157° 38′ 57″ W.; N.W.
point, lat. 1° 59' 30", long. 157° 30′ 3" W.; S.E. point, meridian distance
from Resolution Bay, Marquesas, 18° 2′ 28″ W.*
FANNING ISLAND was discovered by Captain Edmund Fanning, in the
American ship Betsy, in 1798. The next recorded account of it was by Capt.
Legoarant de Tromelin, who came here in the French corvette La Bayonnaise,
in 1828. But his description does not at all accord with that of the disco-
verer; perhaps the coral island had increased in the interval. Prior to 1855
an Englishman, Captain Henry English, had established himself here with
a few natives of Humphries Island and other places, to trade in the produc-
tion of cocoa-nut oil. They placed themselves under British protection, when
Captain W. H. Morshead, R.N., came here in H.M.S. Dido, on October 16,
1855. It was visited by Captain Pearse in H.M.S. Alert, in 1861, and was
accurately surveyed by Captain G. H. Richards, R.N., the present hydro-
grapher, in H.M.S. Hecate, in 1863.†
The island belongs to Captain Henry English, as above mentioned, and he,
with his few white companions and about 150 natives, have much extended
the cultivation of the cocoa-nut palm.
Fanning Island is of coral formation, of the lagoon type, and in shape a
rude oval, 92 miles long N.W. and S.E. Towards the centre it is about 3½
miles wide, but towards its south-eastern end 5½ miles; and its circum-
ference is 27 miles. It is skirted by a small reef extending all round the
island, but only to the distance of half a cable from the beach, and against
this the ocean swell breaks, but seldom with any violence. Outside the reef
there is no danger of any kind. The belt of land which forms the island has
* Sarah Anna Island, announced in the New York Tribune, March, 1858, as lying in lat.
4º 0 N., long. 154° 22′ W., is doubtful, as Vancouver passed near the position. It may be
the same as Malden Island on the same meridian, but in 4° 0′ South.
+ It is not improbable but that this may be the American Isles, stated by Kotzebue to
have been discovered by Captain Mather, of the American, in 1814, 28' more to the West,
and also the Weeks Island of whaler report, lat. 3° 47' N., long. 158° 37′ W. It is singular
that Captain Hudson, of the U.S. Exploring vessel Peacock, should be satisfied that there is
no other island than Washington Island hereabouts. He states that he diligently sought
for eight days the positions where five islands have been reported to exist, but no land
Perhaps the strong and various currents hereabouts may have led to some
was seen.
confusion.
700
ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.
an average breadth of half a mile, and only at one spot, near its North end,
does it exceed three-quarters of a mile; it is densely covered with cocoa-nut
trees, which produce fruit of the very finest description, but the regularity of
the forest is occasionally broken by gaps, leaving thick clusters of trees
standing apart, with a low coral space between. One very conspicuous gap
is near the N.E. point of the island, and the continuity of the belt of land is
greatly broken there.
ENGLISH HARBOUR.-The lagoon is spacious, but generally shallow and
full of coral heads. The entrance is near the centre of the S.W. side of the
island, where the channel is about 1 cable wide, but not navigable for large
vessels over half that width. Just outside the entrance, 2 cables W. by S.
from the flag-staff, the depths vary from 24 to 40 feet, decreasing to 15 feet
and less towards the coral reef. The northern side of entrance is the shoalest,
and the depth at three-quarters of a cable from the northern shore does not
exceed 15 feet, but at one-third to half a cable distance from the southern
shore the depth is 30 and 32 feet. Inside is a tolerably extensive basin
which affords safe anchorage, in 28 and 30 feet water, bottom of coral and
sand, with the flag-staff on the South side of entrance bearing S.W. § S.,
distant 13 cable. This is English Harbour, which Captain Morshead said
would be an invaluable spot for a rendezvous. The holding-ground is good,
and there is sufficient room for several vessels when properly moored to lie
in perfect safety. Further in the soundings decrease to 16 and 12 feet, and
there are besides several shoal spots; beyond these there is again deep
water, but to what distance the chart does not show.
It is high water, at full and change, at 6"; springs rise 3 feet. The stream
in the harbour turns at high and low water, and runs from 4 to 5 knots.
Vessels should not attempt to enter this harbour except at slack water.
WHALEMAN ANCHORAGE.-There is excellent anchorage for ships on the
West side of the island, towards the N.W. end, and 22 miles north-westward
of the entrance to English Harbour; it is called Whaleman anchorage or
bay, but has no title to the latter denomination. The depth of water is said
to range from 8 to about 15 fathoms at half a mile from the beach. Here
ships of the largest class have at times anchored to procure a supply of fresh
water, which is abundant adjacent to the anchorage.
The trade-winds blow steadily from the eastward almost all the year
round, and the island is seldom or never the scene of any boisterous weather.
The months of March and April are generally the worst.
The flag-staff, on the South side of entrance to English Harbour, is in lat.
3° 51′ 26″ N., long. 159° 22′ W.; Point Alert (the East extreme of the
island, near which there is a gap in the continuity of the cocoa-nut forest),
lat. 3° 52′ N., long. 159° 15′ W.; the North extremity of the island in lat.
3° 56′ N., and nearly on the meridian of the flag-staff in English Harbour;
the South extremity in lat. 3° 18' N.
WASHINGTON AND PALMYRA ISLANDS.
701
The island is very fertile and produces bananas, pumpkins, taro, figs,
melons, cabbages, radishes, tomatoes, and numerous other garden vegeta-
bles, introduced by the settlers. Every facility is offered for procuring fire-
wood and water, as well as any fruit and vegetables in season, and the
visits of whalers for this purpose are not infrequent. Fish is abundant in
the lagoon.
Bound from Honolulu and the northward make the island on the East
side, and sail round the South side. Ships must be careful on entering the
harbour, as the coral reefs project further seaward there than elsewhere;
but probably a pilot can be procured.
WASHINGTON ISLAND was discovered by Captain Fanning, the day
after he had discovered the island bearing his name to the S.E. It has also
been called New York Island on the charts, and is probably the Prospect Island
announced in 1858. According to Captain Wilkes, it is in lat. 4° 41′ 35″ N.,
long. 160° 15′ 37" W., very nearly the position originally assigned. It is 31
miles long by 1 mile broad, and is entirely covered with cocoa-nut and
other trees, exhibiting a most luxuriant growth. There is a reef off its
eastern point, which extends for half a mile. At the western end a coral
ledge extends 2 miles in a N.W. by W. direction, on which the water ap-
pears much discoloured, but the sea was not seen to break upon it, except
close to the point of the island. It is elevated about 10 feet above the sea.
The surf is very heavy, and the island affords no anchorage.
PALMYRA ISLAND was discovered, November 7, 1802, by an American
vessel of the name, during her passage from Juan Fernandez to Manila.
According to the description of her commander, Captain Sawle, it was unin-
habited, flat, and has a lagoon in its centre 7 miles long, in which the tide
regularly ebbs and flows. The island is 14 miles in extent from East to
West, and about half that in breadth. The Palmyra anchored on the N.W.
side of the island in 20 fathoms, at three-quarters of a mile off shore.
Abundance of turtle were found, but no fresh water.
It was taken possession of by Captain Zenas Bent, of Honolulu, for the
Hawaiian Government, in 1262, having been previously claimed for the
American Guano Company. Captain Bent's description makes it only 10
miles long by 6 miles broad. The eastern end rises about 20 feet; the land-
ing place is on the West end, and a vessel can be in perfect safety in a depth
of 3 fathoms. Some people were left on it to cure biche-de-mer. He places
it in lat. 5° 50′ N., long. 161° 53', but Captain Sawle places it 30 miles to the
westward.
The tide ebbs and flows about 5 feet, and runs in and out of the lagoon at
a rate of 6 or 7 knots.
702
ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.
The SAMARANG ISLES were discovered by Captain Scott, in H.M.S.
Samarang, September 15th, 1840. They may be the same as Prospect island.
They are a group of about 14 or 16, forming a belt round an apparently
shallow lagoon, and are covered with flourishing cocoa-nut and palm trees
to the water's edge. In the centre of the eastern reef is a small dry sand-
bank; the reef itself extends from the eastern islet nearly East, about two
miles, over which the sea breaks heavily. Another reef runs out from the
western islet, about a mile to the westward; what distance they run in that
direction was not ascertained; but at 3 miles from the breakers on the
western reef soundings were obtained in 9, 8, and 7 fathoms, at which time
the N.W. breakers were discovered from the foreyard. By the angles that
were taken they stretch out full 9 or 10 miles to the N.W. from the western
islet; the northern edge of the N.W. reef appeared from the mast-head to
run away about S.E. by E. till it joined the eastern one. Broken water was
observed here and there along the whole line, with evident shoal water be-
tween it and the coral reef before mentioned.
With the strong currents experienced by the Samarang in this neighbour-
hood, a more dangerous spot to those navigating these seas, unacquainted
with its existence, can scarcely exist than this group of coralline islets, with
their extensive reefs. Had it not providentially fallen calm during the
night, the Samarang must inevitably have been lost, with the probability
of every soul on board perishing, as her course would have taken directly on
to the reef.
The eastern breakers are in lat. 4° 56′ 15″ N., long. 162° 17′ 35″ W.; and
the West islet is in lat. 4° 55′ 9″, long. 162° 22′ 20″ W.*
* DOUBTFUL ISLANDS.-Madison Island, from whaler report, lat. 5° 30' N., lon. 159° 0′ W.,
is probably Palmyras Island.
Four Islands, said to be in lat. 4° 32′ N., long. 169° 32′ W. Captain Stone, of the brig
Josephine, in quest of guano islands, sought for this group, but was assured that no islands
or dangers existed within 250 miles of the place.
Perhaps this last assertion may include Davis Island, said to have been found in 1858, in
lat. 6° 40′ N., long. 170° 10′ W.
An island or shoal, in lat. 6° 36′ to 6° 39′ N., long. 166° 0′ to 166° 18′ W., has been three
times announced by whalers. Captain Stone, in the Josephine, ran near the first position at
mid-day; good observations; and although she saw many birds, among them land birds,
yet no land was seen.
To these may be added an island in 8° 40′ N. and 168° 0′ W. from whaler report, which is
probably Barber Island, if that exists.
Barber Island is also placed in lat. 5° 0′ N., long. 177° 54′ W.
Another island, which may be Barbary Island, is said from whaler report to be in lat.
8° 0' N., long. 177° 20′ W.
Barbara Island, from a report in the New York Tribune, March, 1858, exists in lat. 3° 54′
BAKER ISLAND.
703
Kingman or Alice Thorndike Reef, Captain Kingman, of the American ship
Shooting Star, saw this shoal lying to the northward of Palmyra Island. It
is composed of coral and sand, and when the breakers on the N.E. part bear
East, with a moderate breeze, a few small spots of coral can be seen above
water. The northern part runs E.S.E. and W.N.W. 12 miles. Shoal water
extends several miles to the southward. The position ascertained was 6° 27′
N., long. 162° 12′ W.
The ship Alice Thorndike also saw it in 1859, placing it in lat. 6° 24′ N.,
long. 162° 22′. Another authority places it in lat. 6° 30′ N., long. 162°
30' The probable position is therefore 6° 27' N., and 162° 21′ W.*
Diana Shoal, discovered by Captain Henry English, of Fanning Island,
lat. 8° 40′ N., long. 157° 20′ W. It has only 6 feet water over it.
The posi-
tion, it is said, may be relied on, but the Herald passed over the site without
seeing anything.
CRANE SHOAL was announced in 1863 by Captain Crane, of the schooner
Maria. She ran over a reef, the rocks of which she saw with about 4 fa-
thoms over them; lat. 5° 53′ N., long. 164° 0′ W.
BARBER ISLAND, in lat. 8° 4′ N., long. 170° 0′ W., is a doubtful announce-
ment in the China Mail, but there is nothing to disprove its existence.
BARBARY ISLAND is another doubtful but not disproved report, lat. 9° 0′
N., long. 178° 0′ W. But in the note on page 702 several other positions are
quoted, which must be included among the very doubtful reports.
/
BAKER ISLAND is a low coral island of similar character to those
around it, but it had a large deposit of guano on it, which has been worked
by the American Guano Company, and, therefore, is better known.
many.
It was seen by Capt. H. Foster, of the barque Jamaica, and has been many
times vaguely reported, as Phabe Island (see hereafter), or New Nantucket Island.
Seven positions have been assigned, varying slightly from that given by Capt.
J. D. Hague, 0° 13′ N., long. 176° 22′ W. He describes it as being about 1
mile long and two-thirds of a mile wide, trending East and West. The sur-
face is nearly level, the highest point of which is 22 feet above the level of
the sea, showing some evidences of elevation.
N., long. 173° 0′ W., and it has also been placed 90 miles West of this position. (This
seems to be a peculiarly vague designation.)
Four Rocks, from whaler report, in lat. 7° 51′ N., long. 176° 6′. Another rock, in lat.
7° 48' N., long. 173° 12′ W.
* From whaler reports in the China Mail, a shoal lies in lat. 6° 36′ N. and 160° 0′ W.;
another report says lat. 6° 30′ N., long: 163° 30′ W. These probably refer to the Kingman
Reef.
704
ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.
Above the crown of the beach there is a sandy ridge which encircles the
guano deposit. This marginal ridge is about 100 feet wide on the lee side
of the island, and is there composed of fine sand and small fragments of
corals and shells mixed with considerable guano. On the eastern or wind-
ward side it is much wider, and formed of coarser fragments of corals and
shells which, in their arrangement, present the appearance of successive
beach formations. Encircled by this ridge lies the guano deposit, occupying
the centre and the greater part of the island. The surface of this deposit is
nearly even, but the hard coral bottom which forms its bed has a gradual
slope from the borders towards the centre, or, perhaps more properly, from
N.W. to S.E., giving the guano a variable depth from 6 inches at the edges
to several feet at the deepest part. None of the grass that grows abundantly
on the margin is found on the guano.
On the West side is a small open bay, in which is a boat entrance; imme-
diately opposite to which is the temporary hotel, and close to it (to the
northward) is the wharf. In the centre of the island are the patches of guano
with tramways to the largest deposits. Outside of the reef the downward
trend of the island under water is so abrupt that an anchor will not grapple,
but falls away towards the bottom of the deep ocean. For this reason it has
been found necessary to anchor large buoys outside the reef, to which the
guano ships can moor themselves while receiving their cargoes.
Mr. Charles Reeves, of the guano ship Loch-na-gar, gives the following re-
cent account ofit.—(Mercantile Marine Magazine, Jan. 1869.)
Baker Island is situated in lat. 0° 12′ N., long. 176° 22′ W.; it is of coral
formation, rising from the sea abruptly to a height of 15 ft., and of nearly
circular form, about 2 miles in circumference.
The wooden houses upon the island, to the number of twelve, can be seen
14 miles from the mast-head; but if a ship should be at the buoy there, she
can be seen long before the island. On approaching the island, care should
be taken not to be set to leeward by the current, which constantly sets
W.S.W., 2 knots an hour. If a ship once gets to leeward, she may be weeks
before she is able to beat up to the island again.
As soon as the island is visible, the jack should be hoisted at the fore-
royal mast-head, and as a matter of precaution the royal taken in, to make
certain of the jack being seen. As soon as she is made out as bound to the
island, the American ensign will be hoisted from the signal-staff, if it is fa-
vourable for coming to the buoy. But should the ensign not be hoisted by
the time the ship is close to the island, it is a sign that there is too much
danger to come to the buoy. Therefore be prepared to haul to the wind
when they hoist up "Stand to Sea," and carry all possible sail to hold your
own against the current.
But when the ensign is hoisted, get up your best lines to run to the
buoy; they sometimes have lines at the island, but just as frequently as not
HOWLAND OR HOLLAND ISLAND.
705
Steer
you will
they have been carried away, and they have to depend upon yours.
for whichever end of the island will give you the weather gage, for
have to luff round the lee side of the island to the buoy. The mooring
master comes on board about 2 miles from the island and takes charge.
The easterly winds are frequently interrupted by squalls from the west-
ward, more especially from November to March.
As soon as dark clouds are observed gathering up to the westward, do not
hesitate a moment, but slip at once before the easterly wind fails. If you are
tempted to hang on, and the easterly wind fails, the ship swings round, and
no power can save her from destruction. The wreck-strewn island bears
melancholy evidence of this; the beach being covered with spars that floated
ashore, the only remains of the numerous ships which have been lost here;
the hulls slide down the reef into deep water.
It frequently happens during the winter months that heavy surfs set in all
round the island. It would then be advisable for the ship to go to sea if
there is any wind to slip, for there is no communication with the island ex-
cept by signal, and there is great risk of the ship being lost.
HOWLAND or Holland Island was discovered by Capt. G. E. Netcher,
in the Isabella, of Fairhaven, U.S., September 9th, 1842. It was afterwards
several times reported by whalers in 1851 and 1858, and in the latter year
by Captain Paty, of the schooner Liholiho. On January 16th, 1859, Capt.
Eldridge, of the American barque Amazon, announced it as a new discovery.
Since that period it has been occupied by the American Guano Company. It
will be needless to quote the nine positions assigned to it, but it is very nearly
in lat. 0° 50′ N., long. 176° 35' W.*
Captain J. D. Hague, who came here in 1860, in search of guano, says:
It is about 1 miles long by half a mile wide, containing, above the crown
of the beach, an area of some 400 acres. The highest point is 17 feet above
the reef, and 10 or 12 feet above the level of the high tide. It trends N.N.W.
and S.S.E.
The general features of the island resemble those of Baker. Its surface,
at least on the western side, is somewhat depressed, and much of it is covered
by a growth of purslain, grass, and other vegetation, like that on Baker
Island, but considerably more abundant. Near the centre of the island
there are one or two thickets of leafless trees or brushwood, standing 8 or 10
feet high, and occupying an area of several acres. The tops of these trees
in which the birds roost, are apparently quite dead; but the lower parts,
* Faguin Islands, reported by a whaler as in lat. 46° 0' N., long. 171° 59′ W., and another
island by the same authority, 35 miles to the southward, must refer to Howland and Baker
Islands.
North Pacific.
2 z
706
GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
near the roots, show signs of life after every rain. The windward side of the
island is formed by a succession of ridges composed of coral debris with some
sand and shells, running parallel to the eastern beach, each one of which
may, at earlier stages of the island's growth, have successively formed the
weather shore. Occasionally among these ridges a sandy bed is met with in
which some little guano is mixed. On the lee side there is also a sandy mar-
gin of considerable width. Bits of pumice and pieces of driftwood are scat-
tered all over the island's surface.
The main deposit of guano occupies the middle part of the island, and
stretches, with some interruptions of intervening sand, nearly from the North
to the South end. Its surface is even, and in many places covered by a thick
growth of purslain, whose thread-like roots abound in the guano where it
grows. The deposit rests on a hard coral bottom, and varies in depth from
6 inches to 4 feet. The fact, as observed at Baker Island, that vegetation
flourishes most where the guano is shallow, is also quite apparent here, and
the consequent characteristic difference between the guano of the deep and
shallow parts is distinctly marked.*
GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
In this group there is considerable confusion of names. This arises from
the fact of their disjointed discovery, the name applied to one portion of an
island not being extended to the whole. In the subsequent descriptions we
have endeavoured to reconcile these discrepancies, which will best explain
themselves.
The first island discovered was the easternmost, Byron Island, so named
* DOUBTFUL ISLANDS.-The following announcements of discoveries hereabout, either
require confirmation or do not exist:—
New Market Island, according to Mr. Consul Pritchard of Apia, lies in 0° 22' N., long.
174° 40′ W. This must refer to Baker Island.
A reef, by the same athority, lies in lat. 0° 21' N.,
placed 40 miles to the North of it on the charts.
Howland Islands.
long. 179° 20′ W. A doubtful reef is
These must also refer to Baker and
Starbuck Island, in lat. 0° 0', long. 178° 30', is perhaps intended for 173° 30′ W., and
refers to Henderville Island.
Phoebe Island, lat. 0° 20′ N., long. 176° 40′ W., cannot be found. Commander Sinclair, of
the U.S. ship Vandalia, could not find it; and Mr. Foster, mate of the Jamaica (China
mail), who passed its reported position above twenty times between 1842 and 1844, never
could see it. It is therefore probable that it is a transposition of Baker Island from West
into East longitude.
Mitchell Island, from whaler report in lat. 9° 18′ N., long. 175° 30′ E., is believed not to
exist.
An island, in 10° 0' N., long. 180° 0', and reefs in the same latitude, but in 179° 30′ E.
and 179° 15' E., from whaler report, if they exist, probably refer to the same.
GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
707
from the commander, who saw it June 3rd, 1765. The next were the
northern groups, discovered by the ships Scarborough and Charlotte, com-
manded by Captains Marshall and Gilbert. There is a loose account of this
discovery given in Governor Phillip's voyage, in 1788. The next authority
in order is a chart contained in Dalrymple's collection, drawn by Roger
Simpson and George Bass, officers of the Nautilus, under Captain Bishop.
In the Table of Positions, by John Purdy, is an account of some of the
islands seen by the brig Elizabeth, about 1809. In 1824 Captain Duperrey
visited and explored many of them; but by far the most complete account
of them is given in the account of the United States' Exploring Expedition.
The ship Peacock, and her tender Flying Fish, surveyed the greater part of
them.
The name Gilbert Archipelago was given to the group by Admiral Krusen-
stern, after the commander of the Charlotte, one of the first explorers; the
other commander's name being given to the group to the northward. Kru-
senstern separates them into three groups, the Kingsmill Islands, consisting of
Bishop or Drummond Island and their subordinates; the Simpson Group,
Woodle, Henderville, and Hopper, from the before-mentioned officers of the
Nautilus; and the Scarborough Range, Marshall, Knoy, Matthew Islands, &c.,
from Captain Gibbon's vessel. All these names seem to be very appropriate,
and have been for many years acknowledged; we therefore follow them. On
the other hand, in the American work they are all given under the collective
title of the Kingsmill Islands; the name being only that of a small portion.
From the account of the expedition we derive much of the following.
According to the information collected by Captain Hudson and Mr. Hale,
and furnished to Commodore Wilkes, the group consists of fifteen (or more
properly sixteen) islands, ten of which were visited, the rest assumed from
native information. The highest land of the group is not more than 20 feet
above the sea, and they are all of coral formation, having a general resem-
blance to the usual form of those islands. But it was found that, unlike
those, many of the islands of this group afforded anchorage on their lee side
on sand banks; and in some of them the lee or western reef is wanting; this
would form a distinctive character, and affords additional weight to the fact
that the islands are fast wearing away by the action of the sea on them during
westerly gales. The compact coral shelf is found at the depth of 12 ft. be-
neath the surface. Another evidence of their decrease is, that in all cases
where the island is at all exposed, it has become, as would be in such a case,
a string of detached islets.
Their soil, which is but a few inches in depth, is of coral sand and vegeta-
ble mould, below which coral sand is to be found, and to this depth the wells
and taro patches extend. The rain water percolates thus far, and meets
Pieces of pumice are found, supposed to have been
The cultivation is chiefly cocoa-nut and pandanus, the
the coral rock.
drifted on to it.
2 z 2
708
GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
1
chief articles of food. A species of taro (Arum cordifolium) is also grown
with great care.
On Makin or Pitt Island it is said that there is a trench,
10 feet wide and not less than 7 miles long, dug around the lagoon, for the
cultivation of this taro.
The Rev. L. H. Gulick, M.D., has given an excellent account of this and
the neighbouring groups of Micronesia, which embraces the four archipela-
goes of the Gilbert, Marshall, Caroline, and Ladrone Islands, and of their
people. We derive many of the ensuing remarks from his lectures.
Since the visit of the United States' Exploring Expedition those islands
have grown into some importance to the civilized world from their produc-
tion of cocoa-nut oil. Very many sailors have at different times resided on
shore-not an island of the group but has been thus thoroughly explored-
and there are several who seem to have made their home there, parti-
cularly one respectable trader, of rapidly increasing wealth, named Randall.
In November, 1857, a mission station was taken on Apaiang, or Charlotte
Island, by the Rev. H. Bingham, Jr., and a Hawaiian associate. In Sept.
1860, a second station was taken by two Hawaiians on the neighbouring
island of Tarawa. The language has been reduced to writing, and a num-
ber of children are fluent readers.
Nothing is more remarkable at the Gilbert Islands to one who has visited
other parts of Micronesia, than the great number of the people. Elsewhere
the sparseness of the population is painful; but here the overflowing swarms
are continually surprising one. The smallest of the atolls, Peru, whose di-
ameter is not more than about 2 miles, has a population of from 1,500 to
2,000, and Aranuka has 1,000, while Tapiteuwea has from 7,000 to 8,000.
In almost every other part of Micronesia. the houses are scattered, and if
there are what may be termed villages, they are but small collections of
houses, and in no very close proximity to each other; while here the habit
is to congregate in towns, where the houses are in nearly as close relation to
each other as possible. These villages are-as is almost invariably the case
on the low, annular islands-on the inner or lagoon shore, and as one lays
at anchor within the collections of low, white-roofed houses stretching along
under the cocoa-nut groves, may be seen every few miles, the canoe sheds
first, in a row along the beach, and then the dwellings, which are nothing
more than roofs, standing promiscuously just behind, usually with a large
council-house in the midst.
Captain Randall estimated the population of the group at from 50,000 to
54,000, so that it contains more than half of the population of Micronesia
respectively, there being 20,000 to 25,000 on the Ladrone and Caroline
Islands, and perhaps 10,000 on the Marshall Islands. As the area of the dry
land is not more than 150 square miles, there will be from 300 to 350 per-
sons per square mile, a density scarcely equalled in the world.
In physical appearance this people are darker and coarser as a whole than
GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
709
the more western inhabitants of Micronesia. They are also a larger race,
some of the chiefish ones being very corpulent, equalling in size the ancient
chiefs of Hawaii. This is also the more remarkable from these islands being
the most barren of the atolls of Micronesia. The cocoa-nut and the panda-
nus, and a few laboriously cultivated taro, are the only vegetable produc-
tions, while the greater number of the low islands of the Marshall and
Caroline Archipelagoes produce taro, bread-fruit, and jack-fruit in consider-
able abundance.
The usual height is about 5 feet 8 or 9 inches, but we saw many who
were considerably below this standard. There are none of those burly
persons among them which are so common in the Sandwich and Society
Islands, and we did not see one instance of obesity.—Mr. Hale.
The food of these people, besides the plants mentioned, consists of all
kinds of fish, from the whale to the sea-slug. Great numbers of fish are
taken in wears on the coral flats. Turtle are taken in the season on the
beaches; and shell-fish, with the sea-slug or biche-de-mar, are obtained by
diving. Whales are said to have been formerly much more numerous than
now. They then sometimes got aground and were taken. Now a carcase
occasionally drifts on shore.
There is not much to induce general trading vessels to come here; they
possess but little in the way of refreshment, and there is neither wood nor
water in any quantity. They possess many good harbours, a rare advantage
in low coral islands.
The Climate of these islands is equable, and though of high temperature,
it is found to be less oppressive than in most tropical countries. For the
most part constant breezes prevail, and frequent rain falls, which moderates
the great heat, and at the same time confers fertility on the soil. From Oc-
tober to April, the time of the Peacock's visit, is the winter, and is especially
distinguished by the frequency of rains. Variable winds from the north-
ward and westward prevail at this season, and they have violent gales from
the S.W.; these, according to Kirby (who was taken off the islands), are
typhoon like. The natives plant stakes to prop up their houses, and tie
them down, to prevent them from being blown away. These storms last
three or four days, veering gradually round to the North. The leeward
sides of the islands receive most damage, and both land and trees are swept
away. Kirby stated that, during his residence, the lee side of Kuria had
worn away. In these gales, the trunks of large trees are thrown on the
West side of the island, together with large lumps of resin, similar to
that found on the soil at New Zealand, which the natives use to scent
their oils with. These trees, sometimes 2 feet in diameter, were thought
to be of the pine species. Many stones are found in their roots, from 8 to
10 inches in diameter. These are a fine basalt, and the natives use them for
various purposes.
710
GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
From May till September the weather is fine, with clear skies, and only
occasional showers; and during this time the wind blows constantly from the
eastward. This is the season in which the natives make their voyages; they
never venture abroad in the winter months, even from island to island, being
well aware of the danger of so doing.
Earthquakes are occasionally experienced in these islands. Kirby stated
that during the three years he was on Kuria, or Woodle Island, he had felt
ten or twelve, sufficiently sever to shake down a house. The natives exhibit
no fear on account of them. The direction of the oscillations seems to be
from the S.W.
The following account begins with the southernmost of the archipelago,
and proceeds northward.
ARURAI, Arore, or Hurd's Island, is the southernmost of the group.
It was discovered in the Elizabeth, prior to 1810, and was then named Hope
Island. "But," says Mr. Purdy, "there being another Hope Island at about
14° distant to the northward of the equator, I have substituted Hurd Island
on the chart, from respect to Captain Hurd, of the navy, hydrographer to
the Admiralty."
The following account of it is given by M. Dutaillis:-It is low and
well wooded. It perhaps may be seen at 10 miles off. Its length is 6 or
7 miles, and its breadth 1 or 1½ miles. It cannot be reached except on the
West. The South point is terminated by a breaker which extends to 3
cables length.
The sea breaks heavily on the shore to the East. At the North point of
the island there is a bank of sand, with some rocks interspersed, on which
there are but 3½ fathoms. It is all the more dangerous because the sea does
not always break on it. Its extent is about 4 miles, and its direction is de-
termined by the angles comprised between N.N.E. and E.N.E., of which the
North point is the summit. The West point of this island forms an extensive
bay, where the whalers anchor. Fish, poultry, cocoa-nuts, &c., are easily
procured in exchange for tobacco.
The island has 2,000 to 2,500 inhabitants. They are completely naked.
Their canoes, formed from a vast number of pieces, are clinker built, and are
most graceful in form.
South point, lat. 2° 40′ 54″ S., long. 177° 1′ 13"; North point, lat. 2° 37′
21″ S., long. 176° 56′ 57″ E. These results are nearly identical with those
assumed by Mr. Purdy.
NUKUNAU, or Byron Island, was discovered by Commodore Byron, July
2, 1765. He describes it as a low, flat island, of a most delightful appear-
ance, and full of wood, among which the cocoa-nut was very conspicuous.
He saw, however, to his great regret, much foul ground about it, upon which
the sea broke with a dreadful surf. He sailed along the S. W. side of it, and
TAMANA ISLAND, ETC.
711
estimated it to be 4 leagues in length. It was very populous, but they could
find no landing place. The position is given as lat. 1° 25', long. 176° 40′ E.
PERU, or Francis Island, is also called Peroat, Maria, and Eliza Island, on
former charts. It was discovered by Captain Clerk, of the ship John Palmer,
in 1827. Its population, according to Captain Randall, is 1,500. The South
point is in lat. 1° 20′ S., long (about) 176° 11′ E.
ONOATOA, Onutu, or Clerk Island, may be the
charts. It is in lat. 1° 50' S., long. 175° 39′ E.
4,000.
Rotcher Island of former
The population is about
TAMANA (or Rotcher Island, according to Dr. Gulick) is in lat. 2° 35′ S.,
long. 176° 7′ E. The population is about 3,000.
TAPUTEQUEA or Bishop or Drummond Island.-This extensive island, or
group of islets, had the second of the foregoing names applied to it by Adm.
Krusenstern, from the commander of the vessel, the Nautilus, who is pre-
sumed to have discovered it. In the chart drawn up from that voyage, the
only island named is Drummond Island; it is there shown as 26 miles, the
whole length lined with rocks and reefs, outside of which the Nautilus
anchored in 18 fathoms. At 5 miles to the West of this reef is another,
shown separately on the chart under the name of the Nautilus Shoal, near
which the vessel passed. Both of these were examined by Captain
Duperrey, in 1824. But the fullest account is that given in Capt. Wilkes's
Narrative.
It was made by the U.S. Exploring ships Peacock and Flying Fish, April 3,
1841. They here encountered the regular N.E. trades. It is situated in lat.
1° 20′ S., long. 174° 57' E. It is of coral formation, 30 miles long in a N.W.
and S.E. direction, and varies in width from half to three-quarters of a mile.
This, however, only includes the high portions, or that which is above the
ocean level a few feet. It is thinly covered with cocoa-nut and pandanus
trees, and not a patch of grass is to be seen, or any sort of shrubbery or un-
dergrowth. To the leeward, or on its West side, the reefs and sand-banks
extend off some distance, gradually increasing from the N.W. point to the
S.E., where they are as much as 6 miles in width. This reef is interrupted
in many places, and there is good anchorage off the town of Utiroa, towards
the N.E. end, near a small sand-band, which is usually bare. The whole
shore of the island, as the Peacock approached it, appeared covered with
houses, presenting to the view one continuous village. At intervals of a
mile there were buildings of huge proportions, far exceeding in size any they
had before met with.
The natives of this island are totally different to those on the islands to the
South. They are middle sized, slender, and well proportioned; their colour
a shade or two darker than that of the Tahitians, and they exhibited a greater
variety of face and features, with black glossy hair, finer than in other races.
Their features are small, but high and well marked, their cheek-bones pro-
712
GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
jecting, and are the only natives in the Pacific that have the defect of de-
cayed teeth. Altogether they were thought to resemble the Malays. The
majority of them go entirely naked, except a conical covering for the head of
plaited and bleached pandanus leaf. They exhibited many bodily traces of
their warlike dispositions in their numerous scars and wounds. In order to
guard against the destructive effect of their formidable shark's-teeth swords
and spears, they have invented an effective kind of armour, a sort of cuirass
of plaited cocoa-nut fibres, as solid and compact as a board, and half an inch
thick. This rises, like a high-backed chair, 3 or 4 inches above the head.
They also draw on more flexible coverings for the legs and arms. Their head
dress is still more singular, the skin of a porcupine fish cut open at the mouth
to fit the head. They were extravagantly fond of tobacco; their chief de-
sire was to obtain it, and in return they always gave something equivalent.
Their canoes were different to the other islanders, averaging 12 or 15 feet
long, 2 to 3 feet deep, and from 15 inches to 2 feet wide; they are well
modelled, built in frames, and have much sheer; they are formed of cocoa-
nut-tree boards, sewn neatly together, and use an outrigger, though much
smaller than usual; one of the sides is nearly flat, and in this respect resem-
ble the Ladrone proa figured in Anson's voyages.
In Captain Wilkes's narrative, they were much incommoded by the inso-
lence and rudeness of the people, and one of the men having been decoyed
away or murdered, the ship's party made an assault on the town of Utiroa,
which was burnt.
Captain Randall estimates the population at from 7,000 to 8,000, which
will give this small strip of land as great, if not a greater, number of in-
habitants to the square mile, than any portion of the globe that relies upon
its own resources for subsistence.
Captain Hudson found a bank, on which he anchored, in 15 fathoms
water, at the distance of 4 miles from the island. Opposite to the town
of Utiroa is a long flat, over which, at ebb tide, a boat will not float:
and as it was at low water when they landed, it became necessary to
walk through the shallow to the beach, which was nearly a quarter of a
mile distant.
No land-birds were seen but curlews, golden plovers, turnstones, noddies,
and white terns; many whales' bones were strewed over the beach. This
was the first place where they had observed the shells of the Tridachna gigas,
the gigantic cockle; they were of enormous size; the natives used them for
troughs for many purposes around their houses.
There is neither wood nor water to be obtained at this island, and no in-
ducement to visit it, except to trade for cocoa-nuts.
Good whaling ground exists in the vicinity, and the American whalemen are
in the habit of cruising in this neighbourhood. Those who visit these
people ought to keep a constant guard against treachery, for their numbers
ARANUKA ISLAND.
713
are large, and they are prone to mischief. All intercourse with them
should therefore be conducted with great caution, especially in ships weakly
manned.
NANOUTI or Sydenham Island is one of the early discoveries in the
group. In the chart drawn up by Roger Simpson and George Bass, of the
ship Nautilus, given in Dalrymple's Collection, it is or was composed of
Dog Island and five smaller islands, separated by a considerable reef. On
the original chart above mentioned, the S.W. of these islets is called Two-
tree Island, and the West point of Dog Island is called Cape Morai. It was
examined by Captain Duperrey in his voyage of discovery in 1824. In the
Table of Positions by Mr. Purdy there is an account of the discovery by the
brig Elizabeth of Blaney Island, "long, low, and abundantly supplied with
cocoa-nut trees." All these observations, however, give place to those of
the United States' Exploring Expedition, in which, however, the error is
committed of stating it to be the same as the Bishop's Island "of the
charts."
It lies in lat. 0° 36′ S., long. 174° 24′ E. It is of coral formation, and a
mere ledge of land like Drummond Island, with a lagoon, reef, and a bank
on its lee or S.W. side. By Captain Hudson's survey it is 19 miles long,
trending N.W. and S.E., and its width, including lagoon and reef, 8 miles.
On the S.W. and N.W. portions of it there is a coral bank, from 1 to 1½
mile beyond the reef, on which there are 10 fathoms water. At the distance
of 4 miles from the N.W. end of the island they found soundings in 265
fathoms.
The island is partially covered with cocoa-nut, pandanus, and other trees;
and the islets of which it is formed are nearly continuous, connected by the
usual coral reef. They had no communication with the natives of Nanouti.
A daily intercourse is kept up between it and the Drummond islanders. It
was thought there was no difference in their characters. The distance be-
tween them is but 15 miles. The population is estimated at 6,000.*
ARANUKA, Nanouki, or Henderville Island, was discovered by Captains
Marshall and Gilbert, and was also examined by Captain Duperrey, in 1824.
It was surveyed by the United States' Expedition.
It is in lat. 0° 11′ N., long. 173° 39′ 20″ E. This island is 6½ miles long,
* From the North point of this island there was a small island in sight, which was at
first supposed to be Duperrey's Ile du Nord; but if it be, instead of being located to the
northward, as he has placed it, it bears nearly South of the North extreme of Nanouti.
They found, on proceeding towards it, that it was a hummock connected by a reef with
Nanouti; but no Sable Island could be seen. The tender passed round the opposite side
of Nanouti, and did not see any island; and the officers of both vessels were fully con-
vinced that no Sable Island exists.
714
GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
East and West, and 5 miles wide at the East end, diminishing to 2 miles
at the West end; it is of coral formation. There are two towns on the West
end, and several on the East and S.E. parts, and it is thickly inhabited.
The natives who came on board the Peacock said that the two ends of the
island were at war with each other. They are very much the same in ap-
pearance as the natives of Drummond Island; were naked, and spoke the
same dialect. This island affords neither wood, water, nor refreshments.
From appearances, its inhabitants (about 1,000) must be at times much
stinted for food.
KURIA or Woodle Island was, with Hopper and Henderville Islands, one
of the first discoveries in the group, by Capts. Marshall and Gilbert. It was
surveyed by the United States' Expedition.
Its geographical position is in lat. 0° 14' 30" N., long. 173° 27′ E.; its.
greatest length is 5 miles N.W. and S.E., and its greatest width, which is
at its S.E. end, is 2 miles. The remainder is very narrow, and almost
divided towards the centre. The N.W. portion has two small lagoons, 200
or 300 yards from the beach; the water in them is not so salt as the ocean.
In one of them, the bottom consists of red mud on one side, while it is white
clay on the other. They are used as fishponds by the chiefs. There is a
reef extending to the N. W. nearly 3 miles.
The island is but partially clothed with trees, consisting of cocoa-nut, pan-
danus, and a few stunted bread-fruit. It has no outer reef, and may be
approached very closely. It affords neither wood, water, nor refreshments.
The present population is 1,500, not more than one-third of the estimate of
1841. The Peacock took off an Irishman, John Kirby, a deserter from an
English whaler, who had not been roasted and eaten on his landing, but had
had the chief's daughter given him as his wife. He had thus dwelt as one
of them from February 11, 1838, to April 15, 1841. He said that the
natives, though not professed cannibals, sometimes eat human flesh; but
their food is generally fish.
APAMAMA Roger Simpson, or Hopper Island, was one of the discoveries
of Capts. Marshall and Gilbert, in the Scarborough and Charlotte, as related
n the voyage of Governor Phillip, 1788. It was not seen by Capt. Duperrey.
The latter commander believed it to be identical with the Dundas Island of
the brig Elizabeth, 1809. It must also be considered to be beyond doubt the
same as the Roger Simpson Island, discovered by Captain Bishop in the
Nautilus. A survey was made of it in the United States' ship Peacock, in
1841. This is what is said of it:-
According to the observations then made by Captain Hudson, it is in lat.
0° 27′ 21″ N., long. 173° 57′ 30″ E. It has heretofore been represented as
two islands on the charts, called on one Simpson, and the other, Hopper
and Harbottle; but there is only one, joined by the same reef.
It is about 5 feet above the surface of the ocean, is 10 miles long N.W.
MAIANA AND TARAWA ISLANDS.
715
and S.E., and 5 miles in width North and South. The land is continuous on
the North and East sides, excepting two small strips of bare reef. There is
anchorage on the West side, in an opening between the reef and the N.W.
point of the island, which is about 2 miles wide. The soundings vary from
2 to 5 fathoms; across it, in some places, the bottom is broken coral, in
others coral sand. The entrance to the lagoon, although feasible, should
not be attempted through this passage; but there is a good passage into it
on the S.E. side of the island, which is a mile wide. It has a large popula-
tion, 5,000, but yields little more than will supply their wants. A small
quantity of fresh water may be had by digging on the beaches; wood and
refreshments are not procurable for shipping.
MAIANA or Hall Island.—The name of Hall has been applied to this
island both by Duperrey and by the American Expedition, though there is
great reason to believe that it was previously seen by the original discoverers
of the group, and then named Gilbert Island. The name, Hall Island, was
given by the commander of the brig Elizabeth, in about 1809. If so, it
ought to be called Gilbert Island, and the other name has been dropped
by Admiral Krusenstern, who reasoned from the imperfect data then in
existence.
Capt. Hudson gives the following account from his survey of it :-
It is of coral formation; the N.E. and S.E. parts are a continuous land,
whilst to the S.W. and N.W. it consists of a reef and bank, in some places
awash, with a sand-spit in its lagoon. The western sides of the island are,
therefore, very dangerous, and should be approached with caution, as the sea
seldom breaks on them, and the discoloration of the water is not at all times
to be observed. The population is 4,000. It affords neither refreshment,
wood, nor water. It is 9 miles in length, according to the survey, in a S.E.
and N.W. direction; it is situated in lat. 0° 56′ 45″ N., long. 173° 4′ 15″ E.
On its West side, on some of the banks, there is anchorage in from 10 to 15
fathoms water.
TARAWA or Knoy Island.*—In this island there is very considerable con-
fusion of names, which, from the imperfect observations recorded, must be
left in considerable uncertainty. Knoy Island was discovered in the Scar-
borough and Charlotte. A portion (probably) was named Marshall Island.
Captain Duperrey takes no notice of this name, but applies the name of
Gilbert Island to it. In the periodical publications of 1810 there appeared an
account of the situation of the islands seen by the brig Elizabeth. It was
presumed to be in the year 1809, but our chart says 1804. The extracts
have been preserved by Mr. Purdy, in his tables. In that work there is
an account of the discovery of an island, which was named Cook's Isle, the
* Knox Island in the American work, which is a perversion. It is Knoy Island in the
original.
716
GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
account of which agrees perfectly with that of the South side of Knoy
Island, now under consideration. There is no doubt of their identity. It
may be assumed, then, that Knoy, Cook, and Marshall Island are meant for
the same.
It was surveyed in 1841 by the United States' Expedition. It is in length
20 miles, trending N.W. and S.E. It is in lat. 1° 29′ N., long. 173° 5′ E.,
and is of coral formation. The land is continuous and wooded, with the
exception of four gaps, where the reef is bare. The South side is 12 miles
long, and trends nearly East and West. On this part, near the West end,
are three hummocks (which appear like islands in the distance), and several
small sand-banks, which are connected by the same reef. The island has its
lagoon, but it has the appearance of being an extensive bay, in consequence
of the reef on the West side being a sunken one, on which is found 5 fa-
thoms of water.
This island is partially wooded, having several groves of cocoa-nut trees
on it, and a dense undergrowth. Several towns were seen on it, and it ap-
peared to be thickly inhabited. It affords no supplies for vessels. The
natives (3,500 in number) are entirely the same in appearance, in character,
and customs, with the rest; they go naked, and speak the same dialect.
MARAKI or Matthew Island was also one of the original discoveries by
Captains Marshall and Gilbert, in 1788. It is much smaller than either
Charlotte or Knoy Islands, and is situated in lat. 2° 0′ N., long. 173° 25′ 30″
East. It is a lagoon island, without entrances, and of coral formation. It
is but 5 miles long, N. by E. and S. by W., and 2 miles wide at its base,
being of a triangular shape.
It appeared to be densely peopled, for many villages were seen, and after
dark a large number of fires were burning. Captain Randall estimates the
population at 2,000. Their dialect and customs were the same as the rest
of the group.
APAIANG, Apia, or Charlotte İsland.—The name Charlotte Islands was
applied to this collection of islets by Admiral Krusenstern, from the idea
that the term, The Six Islands, was applied by their discoverer, Captain Mar-
shall, in the Charlotte. In the original charts the names of these six islands
were given as Marshall, Allen, Gillespy, Clerk, Smith, and Scarborough; but
they all lie in one reef, so must be taken as one. They were not seen by
subsequent navigators, particularly by Duperrey, who would have cleared
up the discrepancy. The United States' Expedition surveyed it in 1841, and
gives the following account of it:-
Apia or Charlotte Island is in lat. 1° 52′ N., long. 173° 2′ E. It is a
lagoon island, consisting of a string of coral islets, situated within a reef,
which is 6 or 7 feet above the water. The reef has a bluff front, and is
much worn by the sea. There is no coral sand. Its length in a N.E. and
S.W. direction is 16 miles, and its average breadth 5 miles. On the East
MAKIN ISLAND, ETC.
717
side of the island the land is covered with cocoa-nut and pandanus groves,
with some undergrowth. The N.W. and West side is a continuous reef, 4
or 5 feet above the water's edge, on which are many islets. About the
centre of the reef, on the S.W. side, is a ship's channel into the lagoon,
which is half a mile wide. Near its entrance is a small islet, which stands
alone, and is a good mark for the entrance. There is no island in the lagoon,
as shown in the French chart of Duperrey. Population 3,000.
MAKIN or Pitt Island and Butaritari or Touching Island.-Of the disco-
very of these two islands there appears to be no exact record. They were
not seen by Marshall and Gilbert, nor by Duperrey; but they were placed
too far to the East on the chart. The name of Touching Island is given to
the westernmost island on Arrowsmith's chart. The following is Captain
Hudson's (of the United States' Exploring ship Peacock) account of them :-
There are two islands known under this name; the largest is called by the
natives Taritari (Bataritari) (Touching Island), and the smallest Makin (Pitt
Island). The latitude of the southern port of Taritari is 3° 8' N., longitude
172° 48′ E. This island is of the figure of a triangle, with its apex to the
South, and its sides are above 14 miles in length. The S.E. is a continuous
grove of cocoa-nut and pandanus, with some undergrowth. On the two
other sides is a reef, which is awash, excepting the N. W. point, in which
there is a small inlet. The population is 1,500.
Makin is of much smaller dimensions, being but 6 miles long; it varies
in width from half a mile to a mile. Its northern point lies in lat. 3° 20′ 43″
North, long. 172° 57' East. The entrance into the lagoon has 4 fathoms of
water, and is about one-third of a mile in width. This small island is the
seat of government, and the natives now unite both names under the one of
Makin. When the Peacock approached, it soon became evident that the
island was thickly inhabited; for, on reaching the lee side, above twenty
canoes came off, with from five to ten natives in each; but in one of them
was a white man, Robert Wood or Grey, who had been left on the island by
an English whaler, at his own request, seven years before. Dr. Gulick
estimates the population at 500.
Banaba, Paanopa, or Ocean Island, lat. 0° 52′ South, long. 169° 44′ East
(Dutaillis), is considered as a part of the Gilbert Islands, but is described
in our South Pacific Directory.
Nawodo, Onavero, or Pleasant Island, is also included in the Gilbert Ar-
chipelago, but it is far to leeward. Captain Cheyne places it in lat. 0° 25′ S.
long 167° 5′ E. It is also described in the South Pacific Directory.
(718)
MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
This extensive collection of islands lies between lat. 4° 45′ N. to 12° 0' N.,
and is separated from the Gilbert Islands by a channel 50 leagues broad.
The Rev. Dr. L. H. Gulick has devoted much attention to this group, as well
as to the other islands of Micronesia, and his nomenclature will be followed
hereafter. The spelling of the native names is that adopted by the Micro-
nesian mission—-the system of Lepius. He considers that it is almost certain
that Alvaro de Saavedra visited both chains in 1529. More than two cen-
turies elapsed before they were again visited, as far as is known. Captain
Wallis visited what is now known as the Rimski-korsakoff Islands in 1767.
But the most important of the early voyagers is that of 1788, by Captains
Marshall and Gilbert, of the English navy, in the ships Soarborough and
Charlotte, in their voyage from Port Jackson to China, which voyage origi-
nated in the first colonization of Australia. As Captain Marshall was the
principal officer of the expedition, his name has been applied to the whole
archipelago by Krusenstern and others; that of Captain Gilbert has been
given to that to the southward. There is considerable confusion in the
original accounts, Captain Gilbert having named some of the islands already
named by Capt. Marshall; and Capt. Bishop, who ten years later discovered
some of them, has also named them, which has caused great difficulties in
the nomenclature, that are not decreased by the great discrepancies between
the respective longitudes given by these officers.
Besides the discoveries of Captain Marshall, there is another range of
islands, occupying the same extent of latitude, at 3 degrees to the westward
of them. These islands have been accidentally discovered by various navi-
gators proceeding to India.
In May, 1816, Kotzebue first saw the closely-connected groups of Taka
and Utirik, while on his way to the North. In January succeeding, after
recruiting at the Sandwich Islands, he again visited this region, and disco-
vered and thoroughly explored the greater number of the Ratak Islands.
In Oct. of the same year he again returned directly from the North to these
islands, and added still another group to his discoveries, so leaving only the
three southern atolls of the range unexplored. In October, 1825, on his
second voyage, he again visited these islands, and added to his former ex-
plorations the four most northern groups of the Ratak Islands, the most
eastern and western of which may be called discoveries, though he made
most singular and confusing mistakes in giving native names, mistakes
never before noticed, and which long perplexed Dr. Gulick.
In 1804, the English ship Ocean, and again in 1809, the brig Elizabeth,
saw several of the middle Ratak Islands. But of all others, the most im-
portant name connected with the Marshall Islands is that of Kotzebue, of the
Russian navy.
THE RATAK CHAIN.
719
In 1792 Captain Bond discovered two of the Ralik Islands, and in 1797
Captain Dermott another.
After Kotzebue Captain Duperrey determined one group in 1824; since
which they have been visited by Captain Hagemeister in 1831; by Captains.
Chramtschenko and Schanz of the Russian navy, in 1829, 1832, and 1835;
by the United States' Exploring Expedition in 1840; Capt. Cheyne in 1845.
Several other visits to the different islands are also noticed by Dr. Gulick,
but the most important event is the establishment of the mission under Dr.
Pierson in Kusaie, in 1855, which was subsequently removed to Ebon, where
it still remains under the charge of the Rev. Mr. Doane.
Two lines or chains of islands, lying nearly parallel to each other, and
running N.W. and S.E., are included under the name Marshall Inlands.
The more eastern is the RATAK (the Radack of Kotzebue), and the western is
the Ralik. Each chain numbers fifteen low coraline islands. Several of
these islands are very small, without lagoons; but the greater number are
fully formed atolls, and some of them are of immense size.
The population of the archipelago does not, probably, number over about
10,000; 6,000 perhaps is the Ratak chain, and probably 4,000 in the Ralik
Islands. And yet almost every one of their thirty atolls is inhabited; from
which it may be gathered that the islands are but sparsely populated. Yet
intercourse with a very considerable portion of the inhabitants is secured by
taking a permanent station, for they roam in their proas from island to
island of their respective ranges. There is comparatively little intercourse
between the two principal chains.
Nominally each range is subject to a high chief, or more properly to a
chiefish family. But several of the southern Ralik Islands are now inde-
pendent of their feudal head, who lives on Aurh. So also in the Ralik
chain, the four northern islands are held by a very slight cord of de-
pendance.
The language of the two ranges is substantially the same, though there
are dialectic differences. And though the vocabulary of this language
differs from any spoken in the Caroline Archipelago, its grammatical con-
struction bears the most striking similarity to those westward.
In physical appearance the people are not unlike the Caroline islanders,
as described on Ponapi and Kusaie, save perhaps that they are a little
coarser and more vigorous in their manners, and perhaps also a little darker
complexioned. They seem more excitable and merciful than any of the
Caroline islanders we have met; but this comes in part from their slight
contact as yet with foreign vice and disease.
It is sad to be obliged to report that disease is now being rapidly intro-
duced among the Ralik islanders by whale-ships passing the islands.
The RATAK CHAIN is the westernmost, and contains fifteen islands, in
720
MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
the following order, commencing from the South, viz:-Mili, Maejuro,
Ahrno, Aurh, Maloelab, Urikub, Wotje, Likieb, Jemo, Ailuk, Mejit, Utirik,
Taka, Bikar, and Taongi. The last group, generally known as the Smyth
Isles, is so far detached and uninhabited, that it will be described in the next
chapter.
As the spelling of these native names differs so much from the previous
orthography, the older form will be given in parentheses.
MILI, (Mille), or Mulgrave Islands.—The last of these names was given
by their discoverer, Captain Marshall, in 1788. They were afterwards ex-
amined by Captain Duperrey and Captain Chramtschenko. The following
account, by M. Dutaillis in 1848, is the most explicit.
The Mulgrave islands appear to form a chain of atolls. Together they
form a sort of quadrilateral figure, on one of the sides of which (that on the
East) is a double belt of islands.
These islands, almost all of which are connected with each other at low
water, are sometimes separated at high tides by the sea, which more often
covering these reefs does not leave sufficient depth for a boat to be able to
clear it for an extent of nearly 40 miles; for after a careful search, only one
pass for a large ship and another for boats could be found.
Having been formed successively from coral, marine productions, and the
debris of vegetation, they have in the course of ages acquired their great
breadth. Here and there are grouped some trees, among which are the
native houses. These smaller masses of verdure, intersected by sandy beaches
towards the interior, and by coral blocks towards the outside, give to the
chain the appearance of small islands, on which cocoa-nut trees, bread-fruit
trees, &c., form clumps of beautiful verdure, having a most agreeable and
cheerful appearance.
The parts covered with trees, being the largest, generally form the points
around which the current runs very strong.
In general, the whole chain is very steep-to on the outside, and only in-
creases on the side of the interior lagoon, where it is less disturbed by the
sea, and where the coral banks are in course of formation, some of them
already uncovered at low water, and projecting frequently a cable's length
off the land. When they reach the level of the water, they become, like the
islands already formed, covered in their turn by sand and some vegetables,
and will in the lapse of time be of importance. The population is about
700.
The space enclosed by these islands is a real sea, navigable for every
description of vessels. The bottom, generally at the depth of 22 to 27
fathoms, rises now and then nearer the surface, and shows in white patches,
which thus indicating the dangers, also point out the points where the
anchor may be dropped. These banks, bestrewed with rocks, are never-
MAJURO-ARHNO.
721
theless dangerous to anchors and moorings, because they will break the one
and chafe the other, of both of which Captain Dutaillis says he had sad
experience.
To take the best position, attention ought to be paid to the rise of the tide.
Its level has great influence on the quality of the bottom, and it ought not
to be chosen, if possible, but at low water. The passage for large ships is
between Barr Island (pronounced as if three r's) and the island of Tokoeoa,
the first to the East and the other to the West of the entrance.
To reach the anchorage with winds from the eastern quarter, the only
point for attention is to take up such a position as will allow you to range as
near as possible to the pitch of the eastern reef, and rounding the bank
attached to Barr Island as near as you please; it is shown by the whitish
water; by this means you will avoid a small patch which is to the S.E., and
over which the flood tide runs with a velocity of 1½ knot. This patch is,
until half tide, indicated by very strong ripplings, and becomes nearly awash
at low water.
In general, it is better to enter or leave with the tide, unless indeed the
breeze is fair, and of sufficient force to overcome the strength of the current.
The less distance you are inside the anchorage, the less difficulty there
will be in getting out with westerly winds.
There is another passage, but for boats only, between Anil Island and
Bouguenieu. Bouguenieu is the first islet to the West of Tokoeoa. The dis-
tance between these two passes may be about 1½ mile.
Position of the anchorage, lat. 6° 14′ 37″ N., long. 171° 56′ 6″ E.
Captain Wilkes says they are in lat. 5° 59′ 15″, long. 172° 2′ 33″ (probably
the S.E. part of the island), but his account will not coincide with that given
above.
MAJURO or Arrowsmith (Meduro) Island.—This is a discovery of Capts.
Marshall and Gilbert, though their account and chart of it are not very
definite. Captain Chramtschenko examined it in detail. The length,
W.N.W. and E.S.E., is 18 miles, the breadth being 11 miles. It is of the
usual coral formation, with a lagoon, and inhabited by about 1,000 people.
The eastern point of the island is broken, and there is a small opening for
canoes, but Captain Brown, of the missionary ship Morning Star, says, that
he found it continuous and unbroken for 24 miles, the reef and chain of
islets being to the North. It is a magnificent island, with elegant forests of
bread-fruit and pandanus. Cocoa-nuts, of course, abound, and bananas
seem to be plentiful.
According to the United States' Exploring Expedition, the S.E. point is
in lat. 7° 5′ N., long. 171° 23′ 54″ E., identical with previous observations.
ARHNO or Daniel Island and Pedder Island.-To the West of the foregoing
the same ships discovered what they supposed to be two groups, to which
these names were applied, calling the broad and open channel separating
North Pacific.
3 A
722
MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
them from Arrowsmith Island Fordyce Passage, but Dr. Gulick considers
it as a single island. Captain Chramtschenko did not see them. Captain
Hudson, U.S. Exploring Expedition, passed along the West side of Pedder
Island, and through Fordyce Passage. He says that Pedder and Daniel
Islands are of coral formation, and are inhabited. They are called Arno on
Kotzebue's chart. The population is reckoned at 1,000. The N.E. point
(of Daniel Island) on Wilkes's chart is in lat. 7° 30′ N., long. 171° 52′ E.
The S.W. point (of Pedder Island), by the same authority, is in 7° 11′ N. and
171° 40' E.
AURH (Aur), Ibbetson, or Traversey Islands.-On Arrowsmith's chart a
group, Ibbetson Islands, is marked, which beyond doubt are the same
named by Kotzebue after the Marquis de Traversey, and by the natives
Aurh.
This group is 13 miles long N.W. and S.E., and 6 miles broad. On the
surrounding reef are thirty-two islands, the N.W. of which is Pigen. The
population is numerous when compared with the other islands, but scanty for
its size; it is about 1,000. Stobual Island, at the N.E. end, has a very
pleasant aspect. The anchoring place was in lat. 8° 18′ 42″, long. 171° 12′ E.
(by chronometer, 171° 8' 14"). Kotzebue procured great quantities of cocoa-
nuts here. Aurh is at the S.E. end of the atoll, and, as before mentioned,
is the residence of the feudal chief of many of the groups.
MALOELAB (Kaven), or Calvert, Bass Reef-tied, or Araktcheeff Islands.
This group was discovered on board the ships Scarborough and Charlotte,
June 29, 1788, and were named Calvert Islands, probably by Captain Gilbert.
The Nautilus saw some islands, July 5, 1799, which were then named the
Bass Reef-tied Islands, which are identical with the Calvert Islands. Captain
Kotzebue says their native name is Kaven (or Kawen), and he applies the
name of Araktcheeff (or Araksheef) to them. Dr. Gulick calls them by the
first name.
This group is 30 miles long N.W. and S.E., and 11 miles broad. The
whole cluster consists of sixty-four islands, and was well surveyed by
Kotzebue. The group and its people are precisely similar to those of the
Wotje, to the northward. Kaven or Araktcheef, to the N.W., is the largest
island of them. It is 24 miles long and three-quarters of a mile broad. It
is in lat. 8° 54′ 21" N., long. 170° 49′ E. The S.E. island is in lat. 8° 29′ 30",
long. 171° 11′ E. High water, full and change, 1h 52m; greatest rise, 4 feet.
Kotzebue found very good water in pits on some of the islands, but pro-
visions were not very abundant.
Tjan is a well-cultivated island, and only useful trees, such as the cocoa-
nut, pandanus, and bread-fruit are suffered there. The anchorage off this
island is in lat. 8° 52′ 39″ N., long. 171° 1′ 31" E. Torua, which is twice as
large as Tjan, is in lat. 8° 43′ 10″ N., long. 171° 9′ 35″ E. Thence the atoll
trends to the southward, and finally further south-eastward (the islands
ERIKUB-WOTJE.
723
being generally small) to Airik, which is large (about the same size as
Torua), and affords a more beautiful prospect than any of the other islands.
There is excellent anchorage in 8 fathoms water, about 60 fathoms from the
island, in lat. 8° 31′ N., long. 171° 10′ E.; rise of tide 4 feet. The S.E.
island is in lat. 8° 29′ 30″ N., long. 171° 11′ E. Olot, off which there is an-
chorage in 8 fathoms, coral sand, is in lat. 8° 46′ N., long. 171° 9′ 42″ E. (by
chron.) The population is 1,000.
ERIKUB (Egerup), or Bishop Junction Islands.-This is four of two groups,
which together were called the Chatham Islands, from the voyage of the
Scarborough and Charlotte, probably by Captain Gilbert. The other group
adjoining, Wotje, appears to have been considered as a portion of it, and
Captain Marshall took them for the Barbadoes Islands, marked upon Anson's
chart. They were surveyed by Kotzebue, who states the native name to be
Egerup, and also gives the name of Tschitschagoff to them.
Erikub or Egerup lies to the southward of Wotje, and is considerably
smaller. Its length is 24 miles, and its breadth is 4 miles. The whole
circle consists of one reef, and contains but very few islands. The South
point of it is an island, probably named Egerup, the only one seen with
cocoa-nut trees and people; but these, it was said, were limited to one man
and two old women. Dr. Gulick says that it is now uninhabited. A passage
near this perhaps may be navigable, but is dangerous from its numerous
turnings. There appears but little inducement for visiting the group. The
South point is in lat. 9° 6' N., long. 170° 4' E.
WOTJE (Otdia) or Romanzoff Islands lie to the North of the preceding.
The latter names are applied by Kotzebue, but the remarks relating to their
earlier discovery also belong to those of the Erikub group, as above stated.
This group was minutely examined by Kotzebue, in January, 1817, and
he has given a large and detailed chart of it. It is of an irregular oval
form, 28 miles long in a W.S.W. and E.N.E. direction, by about 10 miles
in breadth. It consists of the usual encircling reef, on which are distributed
sixty-five islands, of various magnitudes. Wotje (Wotye) or Otdia is the
easternmost and largest, about 2 miles long. The anchoring place inside
the island, which was called Christmas Harbour (or Port Noel), was ascer-
tained to be in lat. 9° 28′ 9″ N., long. 170° 16′ 5″ W.; variation, 11° 38′ 30″
East. As the low land here has no influence on the atmosphere, the baro-
meter falls and rises as uniformly as it generally does between the tropics.
The mean of the tidal observations at Otdia gave for the time of high
water, full and change, 2h 30m. The greatest range was 7 feet. The people
were very friendly to Kotzebue, who remained here a considerable time. To
the South of it is an island called by Kotzebue Egmedio, near to the S.E.
angle of the reef; to the South of it is a small high island.
The reef is quite continuous to the N.W. of Otdia, and on it stands a con-
nected chain of small islands, reaching as far as Ormed Island, at the North
3A 2
724
MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
part of the reef, 8 miles from Otdia. The anchorage in this is in lat. 9° 33'
16", long. 170° 10′ 58″ E.; variation, 12° 14′ E.
From Ormed, the North side of the reef, also quite continuous, runs to
W.S.W. 8 miles to Bird Island, and 9 miles still further to Goat Island, from
whence to the West end of the reef is 5 miles.
There are several channels through the reef, all on the lee side. The first
is 1 mile S.E. of the West point, narrow and impracticable; the next is
Rurick Strait, 5 miles further round the reef, by which Kotzebue entered.
From hence the reef continues, without islands, nearly 20 miles, to Schisch-
mareff Strait, in every way preferable to the Rurick Strait, as a ship can
beat in or out with the usual trade wind. To the East of this again is Lagediak
Strait, 4 miles from the S.E. point of the group. The population is given
as 300 by Dr. Gulick.
LIKIEB (Legiep) or Count Heiden Islands.-This group, first seen by Capt.
Kotzebue, Nov. 5, 1817, perfectly resembles the others, though considerably
smaller. Its greatest extent was 19 miles. There is a passage wide enough
for a ship on the western side. The centre of the group is in lat. 9° 51′ 30″
North, long. 169° 13′ 30″ East. The natives of the islands are tall, hand-
some, robust men, advantageously distinguished from the other Radakers.
They live chiefly on fish. Dr. Gulick states the population to be 300. In
his second voyage Kotzebue examined the group more closely, and conse-
quently found it was one-half larger than he at first supposed. On the N.W.
of the group are several large islands, well covered with cocoa-nut trees.
There are two broad entrances to the inland sea, which were accurately
examined, and found to be perfectly safe for a ship-of-the-line, since, ac-
cording to their direction, you may sail in or out with the trade-wind. From
this cause, and the appearance of excellent anchorage, Kotzebue recom-
mends this group to any navigator wishing to put into Radak. The N.W.
point of the group is in lat. 10° 3′ 40″ N., long. 169° 1′ 57″.
JEMO (Temo) or Steep-to Island, a small island seen in the Nautilus, to
which the latter name was applied. Captain Kotzebue says its native name
is Temo, and is in lat. 9° 58′ N., long. 169° 45′ E., at the distance of 20 miles
E.N.E. E. from the Legiep Islands. Population 200.
MEJIT (Miadi) or New Year Island, was discovered by Kotzebue, Jan. 1,
1817. It is a low, woody island, 3 miles long North and South, and three-
quarters of a mile broad. From the North side a very long reef extends.
They could not effect a landing on it. It is clothed with a lovely verdure,
and is inhabited by a similar race to those on the Kutusoff Islands, but they
are not more than fifty in number. The island seems to produce but little
fruit. The position of the middle of the island is lat. 10° 8' 27", long. 170°
55′ 34″ E.
AILUK or Tindal and Watts, or Krusenstern Islands.-Adm. Krusenstern
considers this group to be the same as that named by Captain Marshall, in
UTIRIK-BIKAR.
725
1788, Tindal and Watt's Island. Kotzebue supposed it to be a new disco-
very, March 1, 1817, and applied the name of the great hydrographer to it.
Its native name is Ailu (or Ailuk). Kotzebue surveyed it.
The group is 15 miles long and 5 miles broad. He entered it by a channel
which was narrow, but deep towards the North part. The eastern side of
the group is formed by a chain of islands, but the western side consists of a
coral reef. Ailuk or Ailu, which gives its name to the whole, is in the South
part. It is small, scarcely a mile long; it has a pleasing appearance, and is
distinguished from the rest by its tall palm-trees. Capeniur Island is the
northernmost of the group. Kotzebue's anchorage was in lat. 10° 17′ 25″ N.,
long. 190° 0′ 40″ W. High water, full and change, 4h 53m; rise 8 feet.
UTIRIK (Udirick) or Kutusoff, or Button Islands.—-On a chart inserted in
the voyage of Governor Phillip, two islands are marked as the Button
Islands, from the authority of Captain Marshall, 1788. They were not in-
serted on any other chart, and thus Kotzebue considered them as a fresh
discovery, May 21, 1815, on his passage to Kamtschatka. This group and
the next taken together have almost a North and South direction, and
extend thus for 25 miles. Kutusoff, or Utirik (or Uterick), is the only one
inhabited. The island first seen by Kotzebue had a beautiful grove of
cocoa-nut trees. The people came off and were friendly; they were of a
black colour, with straight black hair. Present population only 20.
According to Kotzebue, the North point of the reef is in lat. 11° 29′ N.,
long. 169° 54′ E. Captain Moore, of the Morning Star, makes the centre in
11° 20′ N., 169° 50′ E.
TAKA (Tagai) or Souworoff, like the former group, consists of small
islands, connected by coral reefs, and seem to contain deep water in the
centre. Though it is thickly covered with trees, not a single palm-tree was
to be seen. It is uninhabited. The channel separating the two groups is
34 miles in length, free from rocks, and unfathomable depth. The latitude
of the channel is 11° 11′ 20″, long. 169° 50′ 37″ E.
BIKAR (Bigar) or Dawson Island, is the northernmost of the islands
hitherto considered as belonging to the Ratak chain. Its second name is
derived from Captain Marshall's chart. Bigar, from the statement of a
native to Kotzebue, forms a circle, consisting, for the most part, of reefs,
and contains only two small islands; a third is laid in the middle of the
basin, and all are overgrown with low bushes. There are some boat en-
trances, under the lee of the island, where the natives penetrate to catch
turtle and sea-fowl. The centre is in lat. 11° 48', long. 170° 7'. It is
uninhabited.
Taongi or Smyth, or Gaspar Rico Islands, in lat. 14° 30′ N., long. 168° 42′
Fast, is an uninhabited group included by Dr. Gulick among the Marshall
Islands. But as it is so isolated to the northward, it will be described in the
next chapter.
726
MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
Captain Moore, of the Morning Star, says :-The two chains, Ratak and
Ralik (meaning East and West), might be regarded somewhat in the light
of a large town, with alleys, streets, and avenues running through it, the
inhabitants passing and repassing, engaged in like occupations, seeking the
same amusements, and governed by the same laws. A great uniformity of
character is observed.
That space of ocean comprehended between the two chains, and stretching
from the Bonham Islands, on the South, to the Rimski-Korsakoff, on the
North, we will call the "Radak Sea." This sea, 300 miles long and 100
broad, has been, as yet, but partially explored, and in which it is supposed
there exist dangers of a formidable character. How far this may be true of
the southern portion I am unable to say; but having made a cautious sur-
vey of the northern arm, I am prepared to believe that navigation is endan-
gered more by conflicting currents than by labyrinthine reefs. As may be
supposed, among so many islands, there is no regularity to the set of the
current.
The RALIK CHAIN (the Ralick chain of Kotzebue) runs parallel to the
Ratak chain just described, and extends to the same parallel of latitude-
The character of the separate groups composing it appears to be the same,
and the inhabitants of each are acquainted with each other. The islands
of this range have not been so well examined (with some exceptions) as the
eastern chain.
There is considerable confusion in the nomenclature, and a difficulty in
reconciling the native names, as at present known, with the earlier disco-
veries. Of course, in many cases these identifications may be matters of
opinion, and therefore unimportant; but with a view to including the earlier
with the later decisions, the names as formerly connected with each other
will be given where they differ from Dr. Gulick's arrangement, which will
be followed here.
The fifteen islands or groups which compose the Ralik chain commencing
from the northernmost, are-Bikini, Kongelab, Rongerik, Ailinginae,
Wottho (or Kabahala), Ujae, Kwajalein, Namo, Lib, Jabwat, Ailinglabelab,
Jaluit, Kili, Namerik, and Ebon.
KONGELAB (Bigini), or Pescadore Islands.-On September 3, 1767, Capt.
Wallis discovered two islands, about 35 miles apart, which he supposed to
be the Pescadores placed on Anson's chart; but, from some vagueness in his
positions, they could not be well identified. Capt. Kotzebue, in his second
voyage, has made the matter more clear by the discovery of three groups, of
which the easternmost he supposes to be the group in question, and says its
native name is Bigini; but Dr. Gulick applies this name to the Eschscholtz
group. According to Kotzebue, it is a group of low, thickly-wooded, coral
RONGERIK—BIKINI.
727
islands, forming, as usual, a circle round a basin. The greatest length,
East and West, is 10 miles. Their aspect is pleasant, but no sign of inha-
bitants; so that if they be really the Pescadores, the people must have long
ago become extinct, as no monument of their existence is now visible. The
centre of the group is in lat. 11° 19′ 21″ N., long. 167° 24′ 57″ E.
Captain Hudson, of the U.S. ship Peacock, says it is of a triangular shape,
and has on its reef several islets and some sand-spits; the former are
covered with a few low bushes, but it has no cocoa-nut or pandanus trees,
and affords nothing but the pearl-oyster and turtles in the season. There
are two entrances into the lagoon; one about the middle of the North side,
the other on the East side. It had no inhabitants; but Dr. Gulick says that
it has 120 inhabitants.
RONGERIK (Radokala), or Rimski-Korsakoff Islands, is the second of the
three groups discovered by Kotzebue. He named it after his second lieute-
nant. It is, according to his estimate, 54 miles in extent, in an E.N.E. and
W.S.W. direction; but it is now known to consist of two separate groups;
its East point being in lat. 11° 26' 45", long. 167° 14' 20" E.
The U.S. Exploring ship Peacock examined it, but could not effect a land-
ing on account of the surf. Although a few persons were seen on it, yet
there was no appearance of permanent inhabitants. It seemed to be without
any vegetable productions capable of sustaining life. Rimski-Korsakoff,
though represented on the charts as one island, consists of two, as before
said. The larger island is about 26 miles long, trending N.E. and S.W.
It has an entrance to its lagoon on the South side. Population 80.
AILINGINAE, the smaller and south-western of the Rimski-Korsakoff
Isles, is about 14 miles long by 9 miles wide. It is uninhabited. Its S.W.
point is in lat. 11° 8′ 20″ N., long. 166° 26′ 30″ E.
BIKINI (Udia-Milai) or Eschscholtz Islands, is the westernmost of these
groups. Kotzebue, in October, 1825, named this group after the naturalist
of his expedition. He saw only the western part of the group, which he
places in lat. 11° 40′ N., long. 166° 24' 25" E. Captain Chramtschenko also
saw only its western portion. "Next day we came up with an island named
by the charts Eschscholtz Island. At noon, December 19th, 1858, we were
close in-shore, in lat. 11° 33′ N., long. 165° 37′ E. Could see twelve islands
lying in an East and West direction. We being about the centre, stood for
a channel 3 miles in width between two islands. On getting near we could
see the bottom stretching across; sent a boat to sound, found 11 fathoms,
and sailed over, seeing very distinctly the various coloured corals comprising
the reef under our keel as we dashed along. After passing this bar found
ourselves in smooth water. Soon after saw land in the N.W. and also in
the N.E., also a shoal with 10 fathoms water over it; of course I was now
convinced that we had entered a spacious lagoon. I counted from aloft four-
728
MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
teen islands, and the lagoon must be 20 miles across at least. We tacked
and stood out, speaking a canoe on our way, with a chief on board, who in-
formed us that the name of the group was Bigini. We cleared the western
extremity at sunset, which is a circular reef. This part is very dangerous,
as all the adjoining islets are small and very low, some of them having only
a few bushes. I noticed one peculiarity in this group; the bars between the
islands and shoals inside are more sunken than any we have seen heretofore,
with several deep channels into the lagoon. They are a very fine race of
people, if those in the canoe were a fair specimen. Dr. Gulick gives the
population as 50.
WOTTHO or Shanz Islands, a group of thirteen islands, discovered May
30, 1835, by Captain Shanz (or Schantz), of the Russian navy, in the impe-
rial ship America, on her passage from Port Jackson to Kamschatka. Mr.
Reynolds mentions a group, discovered by a Captain Closly, near this longi-
tude, about 30 miles to the southward, which prevents them being considered
as the same. The Shanz Islands extend about 4 leagues from N.W. to
S.E., and are 5 miles broad. Their centre is in lat. 10° 5′ N., long. from 8
chronometers, 166° 4' E. Population 40.
Another announcement near this is Kabahala Island, from whaler report in
lat. 10° 5′ N., long. 166° 45′ E. It is most likely the same as Shanz Island,
but Captain Brown, of the missionary ship Morning Star, reports sailing over
both these localities without seeing anything, but nevertheless there can be
but little doubt of their existence.
KWAJALEIN (Kwadelen), or Catharine Islands.-The English ship Ocean
discovered, in 1804, three groups of islands, which were named Margaretta,
Lydia, and Catharine. The Islands Kwadelen (or Quadelen), Namou, and
Lileb, placed upon Kotzebue's chart, so exactly agree with these three Ocean
Islands, that there can be no doubt of their identity. The Kwajalein or
Catharine Islands, the northernmost, are placed in lat. 9° 14' N., and long.
167° 2'.
UJAE, or Lydia Islands, are the centre of the three groups above men-
tioned, and lie in lat. 9° 4', long. 165° 58′.
The Serpent Group, seen by Captain Hammond, R.N., in H.M.S. Serpent,
in lat. 9° 14′ N., long. 166° 2′ E., are apparently the same as Lydia Island,
but there is much confusion in the hydrography of these groups.
Captain Hammond saw a group of islands, surrounded by a reef, which
consisted of a solid wall of coral, with 7 fathoms close to its edge, and 20
fathoms a boat's length off; although on the lee side of it a heavy surf
was breaking all over the reef, through which the boat could not find a
passage. Captain Hammond says he had just come from the Catharine
Islands, and therefore considers this to be a distinct group; and as it was
NAMO AND JABWAT ISLANDS.
729
not found on his chart, he named it the Serpent Group; the position he gives
is nearly that given to Lydia Island.*
Lae, or Brown Islands, is a discovery in the missionary ship Morning Star,
December, 1858. Her commander, Captain J. W. Brown, thus describes
it:-" Sunday morning, the 19th, was surprised at seeing land very near a-
head, as none is shown in my charts in that place. On coming up with it,
found it to be a group of fourteen islands, encircling three sides of a beauti-
ful lagoon, the western part being protected by a reef, with a small channel.
A canoe came off, having two men on board. I gave them some presents,
asked the name of the group, which is Lai or Rai, and left this little gem,
the lagoon of which is about 4 miles across, and lies in North lat. 9° 0′,
and East long. 166° 26'. The canoe brought off some very fine bread-
fruit and cocoa-nuts." Dr. Gulick states that the population is 500.
NAMO, Margaretta, or Paterson Islands, is the southernmost of the three
groups discovered by the Ocean. There can be no doubt of the identity of
the Margaretta Island of the ship Ocean, in 1804, and the Paterson Islands
of the brig Elizabeth, in 1809. This island, or as it appeared a group of
islands, had a very fertile appearance, being one continuous chain of cocoa-
nut trees. It lies about W.N.W. and E.S.E., low, and well wooded. Lat.
of South extreme, 8° 55' 48', long. 167° 42′ E. It may be the Dove Island of
Captain Moore, of the Morning Star.
JABWAT (or Tebut), or Princessa Island.-There is considerable confusion
in the next three groups, arising out of the imperfect descriptions and vague
positions assigned by different discoverers. Dr. Gulick considers this island
to be the Bonham Island, discovered by the Elizabeth in 1809; but this cannot
be, the latter is an extensive island. It is most probably the Tebut Island
of Kotzebue's chart, and the Princessa Island of Captain Dennet, of the Bri-
tannia, in lat. 8° 20′ S., long. 167′ 30′ E., which was also seen by Captain
Hagemeister.
It was seen by Captain Dunn, of the barque Dragon, in 1856. He came
within 5 miles of a small sand island with low bushes, 6 miles in circum-
ference, inhabited, and surrounded by a coral reef 1 mile from shore. Lat.
8° 20′ S., long. 167° 46′ E. Notwithstanding the discrepancy of the size re-
ported, they are probably identical. The mean of the positions given (ex-
cluding Kotzebue's longitude) is lat. 8° 20′ S., long. 167° 34′ E.
It was also seen by Captain Moore, in the Morning Star. He says:
"Going aloft, I perceived at once that we were approaching a compact, small
coral island, not being more than a mile and a half in circumference. Well,
is this a discovery? It is not marked down on the latest charts, either Eng-
* A group of islands, from whaler report, in lat. 9° 1′ N., long. 164° 40' E., is very
doubtful.
730
MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
lish or American. Findlay says nothing about it in his description of the
islands, and I know that it would be an easy matter for so small an island
to be passed by and not seen. We landed on the West side. There
were twenty-three inhabitants on the island, including men, women, and
children. It was covered with a thick growth of pandanus, and a few
low cocoa-nut trees. The position of the island is lat. 8° 15′ N., and long.
167° 25' E.
LIB may be a portion of one of the groups next described. It is stated
by Dr. Gulick to have a population of 50, and he considers it to be the
Princessa Island of Captain Dennet above described. Captain Moore places
it in lat. 8° 15′ N., long. 167° 28′ E.
AILINGLABELAB, or Musquillo Islands.-The name Musquillo Group was
given by Captain Bond, who saw them the day after his making the Baring
Islands, December 16, 1792. He ranged along the coasts of above twenty
small islands, lying nearly S. by E. and N. by W. by compass. They all
appeared connected by reefs and ledges, distant from each other from 1
to 6 miles. They are all well covered with trees, and full of inhabitants,
which were seen in great numbers on the sandy beach. They are very
low and dangerous, and a ship in thick weather might run on the reef
without seeing the land.
According to Captain Chramtschenko, the group is composed of two por-
tions joined by a very narrow isthmus. At a short distance it might be taken
for two groups. The island forming the isthmus lies in lat. 8° 0' N., long.
168° 13′; the northernmost island (Lib), lat. 8° 10′, long. 168° 0′; the
southernmost, lat. 7° 46′, long. 168° 23′, so that the islands have an extent
of 30 miles in a N.W. and S.E. direction. Their breadth is 11½ miles.
The name of Lambert was given to the northernmost portion, and Ross to
the southern, by Captain Dennet of the Britannia, but the prior name must
be that retained.
HELUT or Elmore Islands.-This group was named by the Elizabeth, in
her passage from Port Jackson to China. The discoverer saw two small,
round islands, moderately high, but Captain Chramtschenko says that it con-
sists of a large island and nearly twenty smaller ones, connected by coral
reefs, extending 20 miles in length from N.N.W. to S.S.E., and 123 miles
in breadth. They are sometimes called the Chramtschenko Islands. The
southernmost island is in lat. 7° 15', long. 168° 46′, nearly according with the
positions originally stated. Captain Chramtschenko says that the natives
call this group Odia. On the charts by Kotzebue, and since followed, it is
called Helut. They must be re-examined before any satisfactory designations
can be applied to them.
.
JALUIT (Kyli) or Bonham Islands.—The brig Elizabeth discovered, in 1809,
“a very extensive island, a group of islands joined together by low sand
(coral?) banks, which I suppose are covered at high water. From one of
KILI AND EBON ISLANDS.
731
these banks came a very handsomely built small canoe, with four men in it,
stout and well made, and apparently friendly. From the S.E. point of the
island a very dangerous, low, sandy point, with scarcely a tree or bush on
it, extends to the eastward and northward, 2 or 3 miles, with a very heavy
surf breaking on it." The island was called G. Bonham's Island. This group
has since been examined by Capt. Duperrey, who called the northern por-
tion Coquille Islands, and the southern part Elizabeth Islands, from the ships
which discovered them. According to Captain Chramtschenko, the group is
30 miles long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and 20 miles broad. It is com-
posed of four large islands, nineteen others smaller, and one in the centre of
the group, separated from the others. There are three entrances to the
group, one to the North, another to the West, and the third to the S.E.
Krusenstern considers that the Kyli of Kotzebue's chart cannot be Bonham
Islands, but the names are still repeated together.
It was visited by Captain J. W. Brown, in the missionary ship Morning
Star. He anchored in its lagoon on December 2nd, near the spot where, 5
years since, a trading schooner was cut off. Captain M'Kenzie and all
hands, save one, were killed. The Bonham Group, or Chelnitt (Jaluit) of
the natives, is full 40 miles North and South. Its South point is in lat.
5° 47′ N., long. 169° 36′ E. In width it will average about 8 miles. Its
form is irregular. The various islands are very beautiful, and abound with
the same fruits as the Mulgrave Group. At our visit, breadfruit was out of
season, and at such times cocoa-nuts and pandanus constitute their only
food. The people number from 300 to 400 only. More shoals were found
in this lagoon than in any we have seen. They are large and numerous; a
vessel could hardly remain under way in the night without striking on them.
They are composed of very sharp and hard coral, and we narrowly escaped
once in the daytime, though we constantly kept a look-out aloft.-/Nautical
Magazine, June, 1859, p. 283.)
KILI (Namureck), or Hunter Island. This island was first seen by Capt.
Dennet. It is stated to be 2 miles in extent from N.W. to S.E. The
position assigned was lat. 5° 46′, long. 169° 0'. Its position agrees with
the Namureck of Kotzebue's chart, and was named Hunter Island. It is
uninhabited.
NAMARIK or Baring Islands.-Baring Islands were discovered by Capt.
Bond, in the Royal Admiral, December 15, 1792. They are two in number,
both very low, and covered with trees, amongst which the cocoa-nut was very
conspicuous. They appeared circular, and of no great extent, seemingly
joined by a reef; they were named after the chairman of the court of direc-
tors of the East India Company. The position was only inferred as lat. 5°
35′ N., long. 168° 13′ E.
EBON, Boston or Covell Islands.-From information given by Captain
Duperrey, these islands were discovered May 25, 1824, by an American
732
MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
vessel, under Captain George Ray, who called them Boston Islands. The
name of Covell (or Cowell) group is from an American commander, of the
barque Alliance, who thought them a new discovery in 1881. Captain
Hagemeister places them in lat. 4° 39′, long. 168° 50'. They are the
southernmost of the Ralik chain. The following is a recent account of
them :-
The group consists of thirteen low coral islands, covered with cocoa-nut
trees, and connected by coral reefs forming a large lagoon inside. The group
is 30 miles in circumference, has a good ship passage leading through the
reef to the lagoon on the West side, and is thickly inhabited by an able-
bodied race of men, who are of a light copper complexion. They have
large canoes, or rather proas, capable of carrying fifty men.
When Capt.
visited these islands, in February, 1845, he was attacked outside
the reef by three proas carrying 150 men, and the vessel was nearly taken,
but after a struggle, in which four of his crew were severely wounded, the
vessel was retaken.
Besides the above, the group has many times been announced. They
have been called Linnez Islands by a whale ship, and placed in lat. 4° 30′ N.,
long. 169° 30′ E. It is also called the Fourteen Island Group.
It is thus shown to be a thickly populated and very narrow strip,
stretching quite 8 miles along the entire S.W., South, and S.E. border
of the atoll. All the other islands are small; most of them were patches,
so insignificant that Captain Cheyne counted only thirteen islands.
The group, according to these authorities, is in lat. 4° 35′ N., long. 168° 47′
E. Dr. Gulick says that the population is 1,000.
ENIWETOK, or Brown Group, was discovered by Captain Thos. Butler,
in the ship Walpole, December 13, 1794. He named them Brown Range,
after the chief super-cargo at Canton, and also the North Island Arthur's
Island, lat. 11° 43′ N. long, 162° 42′ E., and the southern, Parry's Island, lat.
11° 19' N., long. 162° 52′ E. They were more minutely examined by Capt.
Fearn, in the snow Hunter, November 17, 1798. He named two other
islands East and West Danger Islands. He says: Parry's Island is not only
the southernmost of Brown's Range, but the eastern boundary of a most
dangerous and extensive line of keys or shoals, which occupy more than half
a degree of longitude, without a single apparent passage through which a
stranger should attempt to go. Capt. Fearn's positions are identical with
Capt. Butler's, but both are 27' too far East.
The
Dr. Gulick includes them in the Ralik chain of the Marshall Islands,
although so far removed from them, and calls it by the first name.
few natives, only 30 in number, speak the Marshall Island language.
They were surveyed by Lütke, in November 1827. He ran along the coral
reef forming its North and West sides for two days; on the reef are thirty
UJILONG ISLANDS.
low islands and reefs, enclosing a lagoon.
733
It is a circular atoll, 20 miles in
diameter from North to South, and 26 miles from East to West. Arthur
island is in lat. 11° 40′ N., long. 162° 15′ E., the West extreme of the atoll
in lat. 11° 30′ N. and 161° 58′ E., and Parry Island to the S.E. in 11° 21′ N.,
and 162° 25' E.
UJILONG, Arrecifos, Casobos, or Providence Islands.—On the early Spanish
charts two groups, under the names of Arrecifos and Casobos or Casbobas,
where shown hereabout. But their existence was not verified till 1811,
when the ship Providence discovered a group, to which the name of the ship
was applied. Dr. Gulick, who calls the native name Ujilong, says that there
but one reef here, so it must include the two older notices. He says the
population of Ujilong is 1,000.
It was visited in 1864 by Captain James, in the missionary ship Morning
Star. He places it in lat. 9° 52′ N., long. 160° 56′ E. Other authorities
place it in 9° 31′ or 9° 36′ and 161° 8′ E. Captain James says that it has the
form of an irregular parallelogram, extending E. by S. and W. by N. 12
miles by 5 miles broad. There are ten islands on the reef, the largest one
on the East end. Two passages lead into the lagoon on the South shore, the
best of which is about 5 miles from the East point. Although to the west-
ward of the Ralik Chain, the natives speak the Marshall Islands dialect.-
(Naut. Mag., 1864, p. 433.)
It was also visited by the Dundonald, Captain Kewley, in 1867. He speaks
of the large quantity of cocoa-nuts, and places the southernmost island in
lat. 9° 47′ N., long. 161° 15′ 45″ E. Captain Richards, of the ship Charlotte
Jane, says (1868), that it is 12 miles long E.S.E. and W.N.W., and perhaps
7 to 10 miles from North to South. There are several islets in the lagoon,
and the reef on the North side runs out 3 or 4 miles beyond the islets. The
position accords with Capt. Kewley, so that the mean position of the centre
of the atoll may be taken as lat. 9° 39′ N., long. 161° 8′ E.
In conclusion we may again refer to the unsatisfactory state of the hydro-
graphy of the Marshall Islands, and especially of the Ralik chain. It is im-
possible now to reconcile the early longitudes, and the great variations which
are evident in this respect has led to very great confusion. Until a more
complete examination of them is made, the nomenclature of the islands must
remain in this confused condition.
(734)
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
This extensive range of islands was, until recent times, comparatively un-
known. This ignorance, and the terrible accounts of their dangerous cha-
racter given by various navigators who had crossed the chain, caused them
to be the subject of the greatest dread to all commanders sailing in their
vicinity. All these fears and doubts have, like most others of their kind,
been dispelled by the more exact knowledge which modern science gives
of the actual character of the subjects it is applied to. It is chiefly to
the voyage of Captain Duperrey, in the French royal ship La Coquille, in
1823, and to the surveys of Rear-Admiral Lütke, of the Russian corvette
La Séniavine, that we owe our present geographical knowledge of these
islands.
It has been thought that the first notice of any portion of these islands was
given by Diego de Roche, a Portuguese, in 1525, as the Sequeira Isles, but it
is probable that his discovery was to the westward of the group. The same
may be said of the Reyes Islands, discovered by Alvaro de Saavedra, in
1528. The first whose claims have any weight are Villalobos and Miguel
Lopez de Legaspi; the first in 1543, the second in 1565, but neither of
their discoveries can with certainty be recognised. The celebrated Sir
Francis Drake also discovered a portion of the range, Sept. 30, 1779. The
next in order is Lorenzo de Baretto, who, in 1595, saw a large inhabited
island in the group.
In 1686 the Spanish admiral, Don Francisco Lazeano, discovered a
large island, to which he gave the name of Carolina, in honour of the
consort of the reigning king, Charles II., but which island it is not now
known. It gives the name to the archipelago. The name of the New
Philippines has also been applied, but that has long been in disuse.
Among the more complete early accounts of the Carolines is that by the
Jesuit padre, Juan Antonio Cantova, who visited several of the islands in
1721, and during his second voyage thither, in 1731, was killed at the Island
Mogmog. Several navigators have visited portions since that time, as is
related in the subsequent particulars; but, as stated in the first instance, the
chief sources of information are the works of Lütke and Duperrey. Of the
first-named commander it may be stated, that it was his intention to have
drawn up an account, strictly nautical, of the portions of the group visited
by him, but it was omitted for want of leisure in the nautical portion of his
work.
The Caroline Islands, according to Krusenstern and Lütke, extend from the
Pelew Islands on the West, to Ualan on the East, and from 2° to 12° North
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
735
latitude. But this distinction is somewhat arbitrary. The natives of the
Ratak and Ralik chains belong to the same race, so that the proposition of
Dr. Chamisso to include all these islands in the single denomination of the
Marianas is not without weight. But if it be necessary to adopt any divi-
sions, it would be necessary to distinguish that part of the Carolines extend-
ing from the Mortlock to the Ouluthy group, which alone is inhabited by a
nautical and commercial people. The nations more East or West do not
participate in this distinction.
The information collected by the missionaries, and the charts drawn up by
them from native reports, were for nearly a century the only guides to navi-
gators. But they could neither determine their relative sizes or positions;
so that many islands scarcely visible on the surface of the ocean, having a
name as well as the larger groups, were placed as if miles in extent, and
groups of 10 or 15 would occupy the extent of several degrees; this made
the charts an inextricable labyrinth. Then the commanders who crossed the
line of the archipelago in different directions, instead of meeting with en-
tire archipelagoes, were astonished to find either no indications of land, or
else some small spot to which they were delighted to apply some favourite
name, which then took their places in the chart, without superseding the
older ones.
The native names also are frequently repeated, and disfigured
both by the different pronunciation in various parts of the group, and by
different systems of orthography. Such a chaos arose from all this, that
any elucidation became a hopeless task. Such was the state of their geo-
graphy before the Coquille and Séniavine cleared up all doubts, and declared
their real character and number.
Among the later authors who have elucidated the geography of the archi-
pelago in a more complete manner, may be enumerated Captain Cheyne,
Commander of the Naiad, and the Rev. Dr. L. H. Gulick, of the Hawaiian
mission, to whom we have before referred.
The Caroline Islands consist of forty-eight groups, forty-three of which are
coral atolls, and five of them are basaltic surrounded by fringing coral reefs.
These coral islands are immensely populous for their area. Capt. Lütke
considered that the total length of these islands would not exceed 100 miles,
and as most of them do not exceed 200 yards in breadth, the entire area of
the habitable portion of the atolls would not be more than 15 square miles.
Dr. Gulick estimates the area of the entire archipelago as 877 square miles,
and the number of people in 1860 as 18,000. They are claimed as a Spanish
possession, but it is merely nominal.
The inhabitants of all these islands are scions from the same stock. Cha-
misso considers them as the same as all the Malay tribes peopling eastern
Polynesia. The works of Chamisso, the notices of Dr. Mertens, on the peo-
ple, of Capt. Lütke, Kotzebue, and others, may be consulted with great in-
terest on these and similar points.
736
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
Dr. Gulick says that many different dialects are spoken on its widely se-
parated islands, though they are evidently dialects of the same mother
tongue, and are strongly allied to the Marshall Island dialect, and even to
the language spoken on the Gilbert Islands.
Climate. We have no general account of the winds and weather of the
whole archipelago, and from the fact that it lies in the belt of doldrums, or
equatorial calms, there is considerable difficulty in defining the conditions of
the weather in any particular seasons. Admiral Krusenstern says:—But
we learn from the relations of several navigators that the N.E. winds are
not the prevailing winds, which is confirmed by the fact that the inhabit-
ants of several of the western islands having been carried in their canoes
towards the East and N.E., a proof that during a portion of the year the
winds blow from the West. The Pelew Islands are, as is known, in the
limits of the monsoons, which may extend to the meridian of the Mariana
Islands, and even some degrees beyond that, up to the point where they
are arrested by the regular trade winds. This last part seems to be proved
by the circumstance that the inhabitants of the Carolines, who perform their
annual voyages from Lamurek to Guahan, situated several degrees to the
East of that island, generally embark, from what M. Chamisso states, in
April, returning in May or June; that is, they start towards the termination
of the eastern monsoon, probably that they may not have long to wait for
the return of the westerly monsoon, with which they return in May or June,
when this monsoon is found to be in its greatest strength. M. Chamisso
draws a conclusion from this opposite to that which M. Krusenstern does.
He says that the islanders return in May or June, before the westerly winds.
set in; however, it is known that the westerly monsoon never comes later
than'the month of May.
The best account of the weather, &c., at Ponapi appeared in the American
Journal of Science, from the pen of Dr. Gulick. The following is extracted
from that account :-
No island of the whole range, not even of Micronesia (which includes the
Gilbert, Marshall, Caroline and Mariana Islands), has yet been made a point
for accurate meteorological observations, which will enhance the value of
records on Ponapi.
"The following meteorological averages, deduced by Mrs. Gulick from
her daily observations, extending through a period of three years, 1853–
1855, will speak for themselves of the more important topics connected with
climate. It is to be regretted that the want of necessary appliances has ren-
dered these observations much less extensive through the whole field of me-
teorology than we would gladly have made them.
"Average for three years: Temperature.-Mean at sunrise, 78°.28; mean at
noon, 83°.31; mean at sunset, 79°.27; maximum, 89°; minimum, 70°; range,
19°; mean, 80°.28.
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
737
"There are few who will not remark the astonishing uniformity of tem-
perature exhibited in the preceding summary. It is to be questioned whether
there exists a series of observations exhibiting as great a uniformity in any
part of our globe. The South Seas, generally notorious as they are for
salubrious equability of temperature, have probably not yet presented any-
thing equal to this.
"The mean daily range is about 5°.
"The mean difference of successive days is about 1°.
"The utmost range of the thermometer, during three years was from 89°
to 70° only 19°.
"The mean temperature of the three years was 80°.28.
"It should be remarked that the observations till May, 1853, were made
in a most peculiarly unfavourable locality, which greatly exaggerated and
distorted the thermometric conditions. The remaining observations were
made from a locality such as would always be sought for a residence, and
will without the slightest difficulty be found in every part of Ponapi. By
these it appears that the yearly mean is about 80°.50; the utmost range
about 12°; the mean at 7 a.m. about 78°; at noon, about 85°, and at 9 p.m.,
about 79°.50.
"Facts to be stated in connection with remarks on the winds and weather,
will sufficiently account for this singular equability, particularly when it is
remembered what an immense expanse of ocean surrounds all these Micro-
nesian Islands.
Winds.-The following Table shows the distribution of the winds in the
different months of 1854:-
Months.
Days of
Trade-wind.
Days of
Variables.
Calm Days.
Months.
Days of
Trade-wind.
Days of
Variables.
Calm Days.
January
29
2
July
11
11
9
February
28
August
7
24
March
23
8
September
11
16
3
April
29
1
October....
6
10
14
May.....
June
22 23
29
2
November..
15
15
22
8
December.
29
1
The predominating winds are the N.E. trades. During the northern
winter, while the sun is in southern declination, and while, consequently,
the whole system of aerial currents is drawn to the South, the island
North Pacific.
3 B
738
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
is fully exposed to their action. This period usually lasts from December
to May, inclusive; though there is much difference in different seasons.
At times the trades do not set in till January, and again they begin to
blow steadily as early as November, and they cease blowing at any pe-
riod from April till June. There are certain seasons when they are but
faint, even during the dead of winter, as in January and February, 1856;
and, again, they may continually intrude themselves during all the summer,
as in 1856.
CURRENTS.-During the period when the N.E. trade is freshest, strong
westerly currents are generally experienced. From the middle of August
to the middle of November, when strong westerly winds, with heavy squalls,
may be expected, strong easterly currents prevail.
On the subject of currents, they have been found very violent to the South
of the Pelew Islands, bearing to the East, at the rate of 2 or 3 miles an
hour, particularly in the months of June, July, and August, that is, during
the strength of the S.W. monsoon. In the memoir on the currents, mention
is made of this current, which occupies a zone of 60 or 70 leagues in
breadth, and extends from the Pelew Islands to the meridian of 148° or 150°
E. longitude.
GALES.-It may be remarked that the severer class of gales are compara-
tively unknown here. The typhoons of the China Sea, and even of the seas
North of the Marianas, about the Bonin Islands, rarely (if ever) extend to
this island. Yet once, during the youth of a few of the very oldest inhabit-
ants now living, a desolating wind swept over the island, so tearing up the
bread-fruit trees-the principal reliance for food-that an awful famine en-
sued, and large numbers died. It would seem possible that this was a cy-
clone. And it is very interesting that a similar gale produced similar results
at Kusaie, or Strong Island, 5 degrees East of Ponapi, and that, too, in the
memory of the very oldest inhabitants. May not this have been the very
same erratic cyclone that swept Ponapi?
WEATHER.-Without being able to give accurate udometric figures, the
observations recorded regarding the general character of the days exhibit the
fact that there is much humidity, though nothing excessive. Situated just
on the southern confines of the N.E. trades, and under the northern edge of
the cloud zone that hovers over the equatorial regions between the two trade
wind zones of the North and South hemispheres, the island is constantly ex-
posed to precipitations from above. Before the trade winds reach the island,
they have made their passage over thousands of miles of ocean, and have
become saturated with moisture; so that, as soon as they impinge on the
central elevations of the island, some of which are 2,858 feet in height, the
clouds are arrested, and showers fall; and, as the island is but little more
than 15 miles in diameter, they readily pass over them and water the lee no
less than the windward slopes. And again, during the summer, while the
KUSAIE ISLAND.
739
trades have receded northwards, we are, ever and anon, shaded by the equa-
torial clouds, which pour their contents most bounteously; yet we are con-
stantly so near the northern boundary of this zone, that we do not experience
its severer, its protracted and unpleasant pouring rains of weeks and months.
The humidity is consequently more equably distributed through the year
than in most tropical regions; yet we speak of the summer as the season
most rainy, if not as the "rainy season." It must be remarked, however,
that the year, 1856, during which the trades were very faint through all
their usual months, and were quite intrusive through all the months during
which they usually absent themselves, was the most dry remembered by the
oldest inhabitants.
Of the electric phenomena, I can only report that thunder is rare and light-
ning still rarer. Thunder was heard only twenty-eight days in three years,
and lightning seen only eight days. So very seldom does lightning prove
destructive, that the natives have never suspected its agency, but attributed
its results to a direct visitation from their Ani or Spirits, the only gods they
reverence.
The orthography here adopted is that given by Dr. Gulick, as based upon
the system of Lepius, established by his mission. As may be well un-
derstood, there is much confusion in the early names, each voyager spelling
the difficult native pronunciation in his own national method.
The description of the archipelago begins with the easternmost, and pro-
ceeds in a westerly direction.
KUSAIE (Ualan), or Strong Island.-This is the easternmost, and one of
the lofty basaltic peaks of the Caroline Islands; it was discovered, in 1804,
by Captain Crozer, commanding an American ship, who gave it the name
Strong, after the governor of Massachusetts. Captain Duperrey sought for
and found it in June, 1824, proving that Captain Crozer's position was very
exact. He passed ten days here, and made a minute survey of it.
“The
Island of Oualan," says Captain Duperrey, "may at some future time be-
come of great importance. Lying in the track of vessels going from Aus-
tralia to China, it offers at the same time good ports for careenage, abund-
ance of water, and refreshments of different sorts."* The island was also
visited by Captain D'Urville and by Captain Lütke, the latter giving the
following account of it :-Ualan is 24 miles in circumference. It is of vol-
canic formation. A break between two masses of mountains, which extend
across the island from West to East, divides it into two unequal parts, the
southern portion being more than double the extent of the northern. On
this northern portion is Mount Buache, so named by Duperrey, which is 1,914
Voyage de la Coquille; et Observations sur l'Ile de Oualan ou Strong, par M. Lesson,
medecin, &c.; Journal de Voyages Mai, 1825.
3 B 2
740
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
feet according to Duperrey, or 2,160 feet according to Lütke, above the sea
level. From its rounded summit it falls gradually on all sides. On the
southern portion, Mount Crozer, 2,152 feet above the sea, was named after
the discoverer of the island. Its crest extends from N.W. to S.E.; the North
flank is very steep and rugged at its summit. In general this portion of the
island has many peaks, both isolated and coupled in the form of asses' ears.
One of these peaks, more remarkable for its regularly conical summit, and
by its position in front of Coquille harbour, was named the Mertens' Monu-
ment by Lütke, from his lamented naturalist.
The northern part of the island is surrounded by a coral reef, which,
opening before the break between the mountains, forms a fort on each side
of the island; that to the West is what Lütke used; that to the East is
what the islanders call Ninmolchon, and Captain Duperrey Lelé,* from the
name of the small island found in it. The southern part is surrounded by
a chain of coral islets, connected by reefs, and forming on the side towards
the island a shallow lagoon, through which this part of the island may be
traversed. The chain is broken towards the southern part of the island,
forming a small port, named by the French Port Lottin.
The shore, sheltered by the reef from the violence of the waves, is sur-
rounded by a broad belt of mangroves and other shrubs, forming a thick
wall of verdure, which at first pleases by its singularity, but the monotony of
which soon fatigues the sight. This belt also, hiding the real shore, renders
it difficult to determine the exact limits of the island, and also by its nature
renders it constantly liable to change.
In general the whole island, from the sea to the mountain tops, with the
exception of the highest and most peaked summits of Mount Crozer, is
covered with a thick and almost impassable forest. In the neighbourhood
of the houses, this wood consists of bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, bananas, and
other fruit trees. The break or valley between the two ports is the only
part by which you can pass from one side to the other. The distance is
only 2 miles, but the road is unpleasant from the marshy pools, especially
after rain.
Rivulets and water-courses are met with at every step. Their number,
and the richness of the vegetation, attest the humidity of the climate, un-
usual in these latitudes. It did not, however, appear to be unhealthy. The
villages are chiefly placed along the beaches, but are not much seen from
seaward, as they are hidden by the coral islets and mangroves. They are
all surrounded with stone walls, separating the properties. The number of
inhabitants in the fifty small villages enumerated by Lütke amounted to 409
men and 301 women. Dr. Gulick gives the same numbers as the total
population.
* “The natives do not pronounce it Lelé, but Lella.”—Lutke.
PORT LELE-MACKAW REEF.
741
Port Lele, or Pané Bay of the natives, is where the chiefs and the major
part of the population reside. It is the most spacious; but as it is on the
eastern side of the island, and the prevalent winds are from the eastern
quarter, it is not easy to leave it, the more so because there is no sounding
in the entrance. This is the harbour usually resorted to by the American
whalers.
It was visited by Captain Hammet in H.M.S. Serpent, in January, 1853.
The king, who was called King George, but whose proper name was Keru,
must have commenced to reign in 1837 or 1838, and was found there by
Dr. Gulick. Captain Hammet describes some remains of stone architecture,
also alluded to by D'Urville, which was the subject of much speculation.
But Dr. Gulick ascertained that they were not ancient, but were built for
protection, and in some cases as monuments.
The people are saturated with disease, introduced by the whalers, and are
rapidly on the decrease.
Coquille Harbour, where Duperrey's vessel anchored, is on the western
side of the island, which gives it a great advantage over Port Lelé. The
sea is here as calm and tranquil as a mill-pond. The anchorage is excel-
lent, and very tenacious, on a bottom of black mud, near to two small islets
lying in the bottom of the harbour.
The Island of Kusaie or Ualan will serve as an excellent place for refresh-
ment, and particularly for the whalers or vessels proceeding to China by the
eastern route; a tranquil harbour, a fine climate, an abundance of fresh
water and fruits, are great advantages, all to be enjoyed here.* An abun-
dance of sea-provisions must not be expected here; there is no fear of want.
for daily consumption.
The position of the N.E. islet in Coquille Harbour is lat. 5° 21′ 20″, long.
163° 1′ 0″ E. Captain Lütke makes the centre of the island in lat. 5° 19′ N.,
long. 163° 6′ E.
Mackaw Reef. On October 11, 1856, the ship Indiana, Captain Mackaw,
discovered a reef awash in lat. 3° 20′ N., long. 160° 18′ E. Good observa-
tions are claimed for this position, as the chronometers were rated 11 days
before at Mitre Island. It was about a quarter of a mile in extent N.E.
and S.W. The lookout at the masthead also saw broken patches of water
to the eastward; and another patch of breakers was seen from the fore-
castle to south-westward about 2 to 3 miles distant from the ship. A cast
* A good supply of yams and fowls can be obtained from the natives. Two vessels were
cut off some years ago; but of late the natives have got the name of being friendly and
hospitable. Strangers, however, should not allow too many of them on deck; and have
their boats armed when wooding and watering.—Captain Cheyne, 1848.
742
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
of the lead while passing between the two reefs gave no bottom at 12
fathoms, ship going 8 knots.*
PINGELAP, Musgrave, or Mac Askill Islands. According to Arrow-
smith's chart, Captain Musgrave, in the ship Sugar-cane, discovered some
small islands, in 1793. They were placed in lat. 6° 12′ N., long. 159° 15′ E.
According to Horsburgh, Captain MacAskill, of the ship Lady Barlow, on
her passage from Port Jackson to China, discovered, October 29, 1809, two
islands covered with trees, extending about 3 leagues S.E. and N.W. By
good observations the centre was found to be in lat. 6° 12′ N., long. 160° 53′
East. Admiral Krusenstern applied the name of Musgrave Islands to the
first discovery; that of MacAskill was given to the second. Notwithstanding
the difference of longitude (perhaps owing to the effect of currents), it cannot
be doubted that they are the same. Captain Duperrey places the southern
one in lat. 6° 13′, long. 160° 47′; the northern in lat. 6° 12′ 50″, long. 160°
47' 20". Although they are placed on the charts under the name of
MacAskill, if it should be proved that there is but one, that of Musgrave has
the claim of priority.
The two islands are called Takay and Pingelap (Pelelep of Duperrey), and
together are not more than 2 miles in extent. They are covered with cocoa-
nut trees, are of coral formation, and connected by coral reefs, forming a
lagoon inside, with a good ship passage through the reef on the West side
leading into it. The group is about 15 miles in circumference, and is inha-
bited by 300 people, a light-complexioned race, who must not be trusted ;
they live chiefly on fish and cocoa-nuts. The reefs produce biche-de-mar,
but not in any quantity.
MOKIL, Duperrey or Wellington Isles, a group of three coral islands,
very close to each other, were discovered in La Coquille, June 18, 1824, and
named after her commander. The three islands are named Aoura, Ongai,
and Mougoul. The N.E. point of Aoura is in lat. 6° 41′ 45" N., long. 159°
50' E. They occupy an extent of less than 10 miles (Capt. Cheyne says 3
miles), nearly North and South.
Captain Cheyne says they are called the Wellington Isles. They are
covered with cocoa-nut trees, and are connected by coral reefs, forming a
lagoon, with a passage on the N.W. side, leading to the lagoon. The reefs
produce biche-de-mar, and a good supply of cocoa-nuts may be obtained for
trifles.
Captain Hammet, H.M.S. Serpent, found, in Jan. 1853, that an American,
named Lucien Huntington, was living on one of the islands, and that the na-
* Atlantic Island, lat. 1° 10' N., long. 164° 57′ E., has been only reported once, in 1827.
Its existence and position require confirmation.
A reef, from whaler report in lat. 2° 25' N., long. 153° 50′ E., rcquires confirmation.
THE PONAPI ISLANDS.
743
tives (now about 80 in number) were quiet and inoffensive, and quite under
his control. He had a flagstaff on which he hoisted a flag to attract passing
ships. Pigs, fowls, turtle, and taro were procured from him. The only
water was river water, and the only wood is the cocoa-nut tree.
PONAPI, Ascension, or the Seniavine Islands.-This group, consisting of
three separate groups, one of which contains the largest and highest island
of the Carolines, it is very singular should be one of the latest discovered.
It was first announced by Captain Lütke, who saw it Jan. 2, 1828, in the
Russian corvette Séniavine, and was named after the officer whose name the
vessel bore. But it is more than probable that it had been visited before
this.*
The Séniavine Islands lie between lat. 6° 43′ and 7° 6′ N., long. 158° and
158 E. In the principal island the word Ponapi, Bonabi, Bornabi, Pouyni-
pète, or Painipète, was constantly pronounced by the natives, and may be
undoubtedly recognized as the Faloupet of Père Cantova; Pouloupa, of which
the Ougaï islanders spoke to Capt. Duperrey; and Fanopé, mentioned by
the natives of Kadu to Kotzebue. By the name Ponapi, or by that of Faou-
nouper, it is known throughout all the western groups of the Carolines.
It is surrounded by a coral reef, 18 miles from North to South, 17 miles
from East to West, and about 60 miles in circumference. The large island
* Captain Cheyne says: "Near Metalanien Harbour are some interesting ruins, which
are, however, involved in obscurity; the oldest inhabitants being ignorant of their origin,
and having no tradition bearing any reference to their history. That a fortified town once
stood upon this spot, and not built by savages, cannot be doubted; the style of the ruins
giving strong proofs of civilization. Some of the stones measure 8 to 10 feet in length, are
squared on six sides, and have evidently been brought thither from some civilized country,
there being no stones on the island similar to them. Streets are formed in several places,
and the whole town appears to have been a succession of fortified houses. Several artificial
caves were also discovered within the fortifications.
"This town was, doubtless, at one time, the stronghold of pirates, and as the natives can
give no account of it, it seems probable that it was built by Spanish bucaniers, some two or
three centuries ago. This supposition is confirmed by the fact that, about three or four
years ago, a small brass cannon was found on one of the mountains, and taken away by
H.M.S. Larne. Several clear places are also to be seen a little inland, at different parts of
the island, some of which are many acres in extent, clear of timber, and perfectly level.
Upon one of these plains, called K-par, near Kiti (Roan Kiddi) Harbour (and which I
have frequently visited), is a large mound, about 20 feet wide, 8 feet high, and a quarter
of a mile in length. This must evidently have been thrown up for defence, or as a burial-
place for the dead, after some great battle.
"Similar ruins are to be found at Strong Island, of which the natives can give no
account."
"The first syllable of this word cannot be exactly rendered; it has, in the lips of the
natives, a strange and savage sound, extremely difficult to pronounce, and disagreeable to
the ear."-Lutke.
741
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
of Ponapi or Ascension, which gives its name to the group, occupies the
centre, and is 12 miles in diameter from North to South, and 14 miles from
East to West, occupying nearly the whole of the area enclosed by the
fringing coral reef. Besides the chief island, a dozen basaltic islets and
rocks surround the island, while on the coral reef are from fifteen to twenty
coral islands, resembling the ordinary atolls.
Its highest point, Mount Monte-Santo, so named in memory of the naval
victory gained over the Turks by Admiral Séniavine, is 2,858 feet (English)
above the level of the sea.
On its N.W. portion is a spot that is entirely flat, from which the land
rapidly falls towards the N.W. point of the island, Cape Zavalichine, named
from Lütke's officer. This is remarkable for a rock about 1,000 ft. in height,
nearly perpendicular, and which seems to be of basalt. In other directions
the land slopes gradually from the summit to the shore. On the South side
is an isolated and very distinct mass of basalt, which, seen from East to West,
exactly resembles a lighthouse or a sentry box.
From what could be judged of the principal geological formation of the
island by what was seen, it is, like all the other high islands of this sea, of
basalt. It is, like those surrounded by a coral reef, on which some islands,
of different sizes, also of coral, are dispersed ; but in Unwelcome Port, and a
little further to the East, there are, even close to the shore, some high
islands. Some of these are thickly wooded and inhabited. The island is
entirely covered with verdure; but it seems less thickly so than Ualan. To
leeward, that is, on the South and West sides, mangroves and other shrubs
grow in the water, forming an impenetrable border.
There are but very few habitations seen near the sea-shore; the greater
part are hidden by the trees, but the smoke rising in numerous points, and
the large clumps of cocoa-nut trees, attest the numerous population. The
number of people is estimated at 5,000.
The whole island is thickly wooded, and produces many varieties of good
timber. The shores are fronted with mangrove trees, growing in the salt
water, which form an impenetrable barrier to boats landing, except in the
rivers, and other small canals or channels, formed amongst them by nature.
Many of these are so narrow as scarcely to admit of oars being used; they
answer every purpose however, as all the houses situated near the shore have
generally one of these channels leading to them.
The Rev. Dr. L. H. Gulick has given an interesting paper on the climate
and productions of Ponapi in the American Journal of Science. In a former
page we have made some extracts from this as regards the climate. The
following is a description of the group.
The height of what Lütke named Monte Santo (on the French chart Tolo-
colme), in about lat. 6° 53′ N., is 2,861 feet. Several other points approach
it in elevation. A somewhat continuous range of hills extends from Uu, of
SENIAVINE ISLANDS.
745
the Waneka district, westward to Paleka, of the Jekoits district. The ter-
minations of the range are somewhat gradual slopes. The general line of
the range is that of a curve, convex southward. The eastern third, or per-
haps half, is narrow and almost equally precipitous on the northern and
southern aspects, presenting in many places, as in Uu, perpendicular faces
of rock of great height, that show strong columnar tendencies. The middle
third of the range slopes very gradually on the southern aspect, where the
mountains maintain a comparatively regular descent from their summits to
the ocean shore, a distance of 5 or 6 miles. Several long narrow valleys
run up these slopes, along the sides, and at the heads of which are many
faces of columnar rock, over which leap the most romantic cascades. Again,
the western portion of the range is narrow and precipitous.
A number of detached hills and short ranges still further diversify the
scene, more particularly the following. Midway between the Metalanien
Harbour and Aru Point, there rises a very high hill, of perhaps 1,000 feet,
which sends westward a low prolongation that connects it with the main
central range. Again, on the North of the island, in the Nut district, there
rises a similar mountain, but barely connected with even the mainland. At
this place the most perfect basaltic columns are found. The central ridge of
Nut is but a prismatic mass, and about its base lie scattered columns of great
length, also detached piles of agglutinated columns are found. This must
have been, I think, at least one of the spots whence the materials for the
Metalanien "Ruins were taken.
""
By the course of the main range and the positions of the subsidiary hills,
two broad and long valleys are formed. One of them may be called the
Metalanien, the other the Nut valley. Each of them may be 4 to 5 miles in
width, and 6 to 8 miles in length.
There are several solitary projections of rock in the Matalanien and Kiti
district. One, much resembling a sugar-loaf in shape, in the Metalanien
valley at the head of the harbour of the same name, is called Takain. Its
height may be 400 feet, and its circumference at the base three-quarters of
a mile. Its eastern aspects are perpendicular, its western not so steep but
that by adhering with hands and feet it may be ascended. Adherent to the
base of the main rock, yet separated from it above, is a much smaller rock.
Within a quarter of a mile of Takain rises a dome-shaped hill, of almost the
same elevation, but not so precipitous. At the head of the Panian Harbour
a needle-shaped rock elevates itself from the top of a slight ridge. It may
be 10 or 12 rods at the base, and perhaps 150 feet high above the top of the
ridge. On Lütke's chart it bears the name of Mount Guerite; on the French
chart Roic. In the West end of the island is another needle rock, much like
Mount Guerite.
A number of very active streams pour through the valleys on the southern
side of the island. The largest is probably that emptying at the base of
746
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
Takain. On the North of the central range there are no streams, save one
or two draining the Nut valley. These streams, during the course of ages,
must have effected great things. I question whether any bodies of water in
the world are more active than these. During freshets, which occur with
almost every heavy shower, they are deeply perturbed by the black and red
earths with which they are laden. These alluvial substances are deposited
along the shores, forming in many places immense flats, over which the tide
ebbs and flows. It is only on the South side of the island, from the Meta-
lanien Harbour to Point Kittlitz, that these marshes are of any considerable
extent, for on this side alone are the principal streams, and these S.W.
shores are protected from the roughened ocean, acted upon by the N.E.
trades. The island at the mouth of the Nut valley is but one of the alluvial
marshes.
The insulated basaltic points about the main island of Ponapi are very
interesting features of the group. Mutok (or Tenedos, as named by Lutke),
is in reality an island, being only attached to the main land by an extensive
alluvial marsh. It is a sort of double hill, rising very precipitously on its
eastern aspect 150 or 200 feet. Jekoits Island is an irregular triangle, each
side being perhaps a mile and a half. Along the eastern border, running
North and South, is a high ridge, 800 or 1,000 feet in height, exceedingly
precipitous. The north-western part of the island is elevated from 150 to
perhaps 250 or 300 feet, and along its northern and western shores presents
very precipitous ascents. The columnar tendency may be seen in most of
the ledges of this island, though perfect prisms are rare. Lungur and Poitik
are but points of columnar basalt, 100 feet or so in height, with a talus
about their bases, their circumference at the water's edge being, perhaps,
half a mile. Parum is about 1 mile in length, and in one place half a
mile in width, with a central ridge that may be at points 300 feet in
height.
The Mantapeti, or Mants, rise very abruptly from the water's edge. The
smaller of the two is a sort of dome, though presenting in many places faces
of perpendicular basalt. About its eastern shore are considerable hillocks
of coarse conglomerate.
The larger Mant is but the crest of a ridge of prismatic rock that along
its whole western aspect presents a very precipitous face, and may be in one
place 300 feet high. Tapak is but a repetition of the same, of less elevation.
Takain rises with much of the usual perpendicularity to the height of perhaps
300 feet. The mass of its hill is of a reddish rock; and in certain spots a
red earth is found that makes an admirable paint for native canoes; a sub-
stance that is also found in almost every part of the main island. Mutokaloj
is about 50 feet in height, and is very small. Only on the margins of this
islet have I succeeded in finding anything approaching to cellular lava. Ta-
man Island has a general level of about 75 feet, and descends quite steeply
PONAPI.
747
to the water on nearly every side. Near it, to the South, are several very
small and low basaltic islets.
It need scarcely be remarked that the general surface of all the basaltic
members of the Ponapi group is very rugged. Rocks and stones are scat-
tered over almost the entire surface in the greatest profusion; and but few
plains, even of a few acres in extent, are to be anywhere seen. The lee-
ward slopes in the Kiti district present a few spots that may be termed level.
Basaltic specimens may be found on almost every square rod of the island,
but on certain spots they seem to be adventitious rather than native. In such
spots the earth is a reddish clay, under which will usually be found what
seems to be a decomposed rock with frequent seams of red earth. Beneath
the whole we strike upon the substratum of basalt, in compact masses.
Surrounding the whole body of basaltic elevations is a beautiful coral reef,
distant from the coast of the main island the average distance of perhaps 2
miles. There are no less than seven considerable intervals in the continuity of
this reef, forming as many harbours, several of which are really excellent. Between
the reef and the shore of the island are all the usual coral patches that give
such wondrous variety to tropical waters. The height of these patches.
varies greatly. A very considerable number of them are from an inch or
two to a foot or more above the ebb tides at syzygies. On the outer reef are
a number of islets in every respect similar to those on the purely coralline
groups. They are found from the mouth of the Metalanien harbour, along
the southern line, as far as Point Kittlitz, but not on the North of Ponapi.
These islets have a nearly uniform elevation of about 2 ft. above high water
mark. I gather from my own observations, and from the reports of the
pilots, that soundings are found outside of the reef, nearly if not quite
round the island, at distances varying from a quarter to half a mile from
the reef.
Of its harbours Captain Lütke has given us no account, as before stated.
He sent Lieutenant Zavalichine, January 3, 1828, to examine one, at the
South end of the island, in an opening of the reef, and leading towards what
is marked on his charts as Mounts Tenedos (Mutok) and La Guérite (the
sentry box), before alluded to. This entrance is in lat. 6° 45′ N., and long.
158° 24' E.
Kiti, or Rono Kiti Harbour.-Captain Cheyne first described this har-
bour in 1848. It is the one most resorted to by the American whalers.
A vessel bound to this harbour from the eastward, from December till
April, should endeavour to get into the latitude of the island as soon as pos-
sible, after passing the Duperrey Isles, and continue running to the west-
ward on the same parallel of latitude, until the island is sighted, as strong
westerly currents prevail at times during these months, with much hazy
weather; and a stranger would be liable to get set past the island, if a proper
allowance were not made for the current. After making the land, con-
748
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
tinue steering to the westward, until the reef is visible from the deck;
at which time, if the weather be moderate, it is presumed a pilot will be
alongside.
The harbour forms a snug basin, where a ship can lie as safe as in a dock.
The entrance, however, is very narrow and intricate; the narrows for about
200 yards, being only 40 fathoms wide. The outer entrance is between the
two small woody islands named Nalap, and Namaur, a sandy islet with
bushes on it, situated on the reef, to the eastward of the former. The chan-
nel is 4 cables wide, between Shaulak or Little Nalap and the sandy islet.
The largest, Nalap Island, is 2 cables in length North and South, and the
inner one two-thirds of a cable in extent. The Sandy Islet, on the star-
board hand going in, is about three-quarters of a cable in length. The dis-
tance from the entrance to the narrows is nearly a mile North and South
(true) mid-channel. In entering, the elbow of the barrier reef to the
southward of the sandy islet, should have a berth of 1½ cables, as a coral
spit extends from it some distance. In the middle of the outer bight or
harbour, the depth is 45 fathoms, decreasing gradually towards the narrows,
where it ranges from 10 to 15 fathoms. A detached sunken rock, with only
4 ft. on it, lies in the outer entrance of the narrows. This must be left on
the port hand going in. The course through the narrows is N.W. W.
(true). When inside, the water deepens to 20 and 25 fathoms, and then
gradually shoals to the anchorage at the head of the basin. The harbour
or basin is 7 cables in length, N. by E. and S. by W. (true); and between
the narrowest part of the reefs which form it, 14 cables in width. The best
anchorage is at its head, in 7 or 8 fathoms, where the port has a diameter of
2 cables each way, without going under 5 fathoms. The reefs which
form this harbour, dry at low water, spring tides on each side, and at the
head of the basin.
Kiti or Roan Kiddi River is about a quarter of a mile from the anchorage,
from whence a plentiful supply of good fresh water can always be procured,
and an abundance of firewood can be easily obtained on the low land, at the
mouth of the river. It is high water at this place on full and change of the
moon at 4; rise and fall, 5 ft. A stranger before attempting to enter this
harbour will require to send a boat in, and place buoys on the rocks and E.
side of the channel.
By having a careful officer at the mast-head, when running in, all dan-
gers can be seen and avoided in a clear day. The best time to enter this
harbour is on the first of the flood; as, should a vessel unfortunately get
on shore, through a sudden shift of wind, while passing the narrows, she
will stand a much better chance of getting off without injury than at any
other time.
The ensuing remarks are from the remark-book of H.M.S. Larne, 1839 :
"After passing an outer bight or bay, formed by the outer reefs, in which
LOD HARBOUR, ETC.
749
there is nothing less than 45 fathoms, a N.W. course leads for the inner
passage, which, for about 200 yards, is 80 yards wide between a sunken rock,
with 4 ft. on it on the port hand, and the line of the inner reef very steep-to
(7 fathoms), which should be hugged as closely as possible. The course
through the narrows is N.W. by W.: but a fixed course or marks are un-
necessary, as a ship would always pass in and out as the Larne did by the
deep water, as distinguished by the eye when conned from the fore-top-
gallant mast-head. The ordinary N.E. trade is a leading wind in, with
very smooth water, and when through the narrow, it is requisite, if possible,
to shoot to starboard round the tongue of the reef, clewing all up, and an-
chor in 22 fathoms. Then warp to northward up the pool to any depth,
from 20 to 7 fathoms, which it is best to do evening or morning when the
wind drops.
"At the Larne's anchorage we found the lat. 6° 48′ N., and long. 158° 26'
East; variation, 9° 45′ E.; high water (full and change), 6h; rise and fall,
4 feet."
This anchorage was surveyed by Lieutenant G. S. Reynolds and Mr. R.
Edwards (mate), of H.M.S. Larne. It is a perfect pool, with strong clay
holding ground. To the northward a fine stream of fresh water dis-
charges itself, which can only be entered by boats an hour before and
after high water, with just sufficient breadth to ply the oars. The best
place for filling is about half a mile up the stream, near a hut where the na-
tives make nets and repair canoes. Just above this spot the clear fresh water
descends in a torrent.
Another port is on the North side of the island. Captain Lütke says
"Before the N.W. point of the island, remarkable for the high basaltic rock,
we saw a large opening in the reef, and beyond that an extent of water
which promised a good harbour. I determined once more to find a conve-
nient anchorage. Our boats found a passage 2 cables length in width, and
25 fathoms in depth, and beyond that, to all appearance, an extensive and
safe harbour. But hardly had they passed the entrance channel before they
were met by canoes full of natives, who surrounded them in an instant in a
most turbulent manner. Rather than come to extremities with them, the
boats returned to the corvette. It is possible that these natives had no hos-
tile intentions, but their conduct was such that the search was given over.”
This harbour was called Unwelcome Harbour (Port du Mauvais Accueil) by
Captain Lütke, from his reception by the inhabitants.
Lod Harbour, another small harbour-much used by whalers, on account
of being able to sail in and out with the prevailing N.E. wind-is on the E.
side of the island. The entrance is through a break in the reef, and the
anchorage between that and the mangroves which front the shore.
There is another harbour at the N.W. part of the island, in front of the
high perpendicular cliff which terminates the island of Jecoits or Joquoits
750
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
to the N.W. The entrance is through an opening in the barrier, about
two cables wide, but the water inside is very deep, from 25 to 30 fa-
thoms. Captain Moore says that Jecoits harbour is difficult and unsafe to
attempt, and in this he was confirmed by examining it in a boat.
Metalanien Harbour is on the N.E. of the island. The anchorage at
Metalanien harbour is perfectly safe, and sheltered from all winds. This
harbour has a wide entrance on the North side of the Island of Naa, and the
only hidden danger to be avoided when running in is a sunken rock, some
distance within the entrance, and which lies nearly in mid-channel. The sea
sometimes breaks on it; but it can always be avoided by keeping the star-
board side of the channel close aboard. The barrier reef at this place ex-
tends a long distance from the main land, and between which are many coral
flats, with deep-water channels amongst them in some places. The harbour
is formed by the main land, and is similar in shape to a horse-shoe, and the
channel through the reefs which leads to it runs nearly in a direct line from
the entrance in the barrier reef to the heads of the harbour.
This harbour may be easily known to vessels standing in from sea, by a
remarkable peaked hill, resembling a spire or sugar-loaf, which is situated
on the North shore within the harbour. The channel leading to this harbour
lies in a S.W. and N.E. direction. An abundant supply of firewood and
excellent fresh water can always be obtained at this place.
Strong N.E. winds prevail from December to April, with much hazy
weather and frequent squalls, attended with rain. During these months
strong westerly currents are very frequently experienced. From March to
August the winds are generally light and variable, but chiefly from the east-
ward, with much fine weather.
In September, October, and November, strong westerly winds, with severe
squalls and rain, may be expected; and strong easterly currents are frequently
found during these months. On the whole, the climate must be considered
very moist, as scarcely a day passes without rain, especially in the winter
months. These continual showers produce rapid vegetation, and keep up a
constant run of fresh water from the mountains in the chasms and rivulets
between the hills.
The officers of H.M.S. Larne make the following observations on this
harbour :—It is highly advisable that no square-rigged vessels of any mag-
nitude should enter this harbour. The passage is narrow, with two rocks
in it at different angles, and as it fronts directly to the N.E., from whence the
trade-wind is perpetually blowing, a heavy swell rolls in incessantly, and
their being no soundings without the reef, it is dangerous in beating out in
case of the wind dropping, and boats are useless for towing on account of the
heavy swell. It was entirely owing to these circumstances that the Falcon,
of London (whaler), was wrecked in her attempt to beat out in July, 1836,
after having been three months wind-bound inside.
THE ANT OR ANDEMA GROUP.
751
The Ant or Andema Group is the second cluster attached to the Ponapi
or Séniavine Islands. They lie to the S.W. of Ponapi, and their nearest
points are about 7 miles distant from each other. This is the same group
that was said to be discovered by Captain Fraser, of the ship Planter, `in
1832, and named by him William the Fourth Group, and in some charts,
Fraser Islands. But the discovery in the Séniavine being prior to this, of
course the credit is due to Captain Lütke. When first approaching it, Jan.
5, 1828, he was nearly being drifted on to them by a calm which overtook
him; this was caused by the high land of Ponapi interrupting the trade-
wind, but did not prevent the heavy swell from rolling onwards. This in-
cident may serve as a caution. He says that the group is composed of a
dozen coral islands of different sizes, covered with a thick verdure. There
was no appearance of habitation, but they were visited at times, for they saw
in one part a pile of stones raised on a large blackish rock. The reef is of
a triangular form, and is about 8 miles long on each side, the islands occu-
pying that facing the S.E. The South extreme is in lat. 6° 43′ 10″ N., long.
158° 5' 30" E.
Captain Cheyne, of the Naiad, calls them Ant Islands, and says they form
a group of four large, low, coral islands, covered with cocoa-nut and bread-
fruit trees, and surrounded by a coral reef, forming a lagoon inside, with a
passage leading in to it, between the two large islands on the East side of the
group.
These islands belong to the chiefs near Kiti harbour. They have no per-
manent inhabitants, but are resorted to from May till September, for the
hawks-bill turtle fishery. They are also visited at other times for supplies
of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit.
The Pakin or Peguenema Group is the third and westernmost of the
Séniavine Islands. It is composed of five small islands lying in a N.W. and
S.E. direction, and extending about 5 miles in length. The S.E. island is
named Katelina, and its East point is in lat. 7° 2′ N.. long. 158° 0′ 30″ E.
The next lies 12 miles to the northward of it, and is called Ta; the next is
Tagaik, lat. 7° 4′ 4" N., long. 157° 58'. Kapenoar or Kapenuare is the western-
most. Its West point is in lat. 7° 4′ 40″, long. 157° 56′ 30″ E. This is the
largest island. In the Nautical magazine they are called Pakeen, and the
following is the account of the group
4'
It is composed of five small islands surrounded by a coral reef, forming a
lagoon inside, into which there is no passage through the reef. The western-
most island is inhabited by a Ponapi chief, his family and servants, in all
about thirty souls; and this chief claims sovereignty over the whole of this
group. The islands are very low, of coral formation, and produce abundance
of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, and the lagoon plenty of excellent fish to sup-
ply the wants of the inhabitants, about 50 in number. The group is about
752
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
5 miles in length from East to West, and about 3 miles in breadth from North
to South.
This place is celebrated for its canoe sails, which are manufactured from
the leaves of the pandanus tree, and which are eagerly sought after by the
natives of Ponapi. Poultry are also plentiful in this group. In fine weather
the natives frequently visit Ponapi in their canoes, for the purpose of obtain-
ing tobacco and other foreign commodities (Nov., 1848).
NGATIK (Ngaryk) or Valientes Islands, a small group of eight coral
islands, the East extreme of which is in lat. 5° 47′ 30″, long. 157° 32′ East.
They were discovered in 1773 by the Spanish navigator, Don Felipe Tompson
who called them Los Valientes. He made a plan of them, which was found
by Captain Lütke to be tolerably accurate, but 1° 4' too far East. They were
seen, in 1793, by Captain Musgrave, in the Sugar-cane, who called them the
Seven Islands; and in the year following they were passed by the Britannia,
and named the Raven Islands. Captain Don Joachim Lafita saw them, and
determined their position in 1802. They were surveyed, in 1828, by Captain.
Lütke, whose account follows :—
The Ngatik or Ngaruik group is of a triangular form, and is 22 miles in
circumference. We counted eight islands, and not seven as is marked on
Tompson's plan. We found a continuous reef surrounding the whole of
the group, without having the least passage into the lagoon. It would be
curious to know if Tompson was mistaken in marking an opening on the S.
side by which the natives passed in their canoes, or whether this opening has
become closed in the course of fifty-five years by the zoophyte architects. On
all the islands a large quantity of cocoa-nut trees grow. The South side of
the northernmost island is quite covered with a forest of these trees. Not-
withstanding this, we saw no traces of inhabitants except on the small island
at the western angle. Tompson saw people on the eastern islet, and canoes
in the lagoon. We were surprised at the entire absence of the latter. This
was more strange, as a large quantity of bread-fruit trees, from which they
make their canoes, were seen; and besides this, a large quantity of drift-
wood lay on the shore. The population must be very slight. It was sup-
posed that the thirty men seen together on the westernmost island formed
the entire population.
NUKUOR (Nougouore) or Monteverde Islands.—This group, which lies
considerably to the South of the general line of the Caroline Archipelago, was
discovered by Don Juan Bapt. Monteverde, commanding the Spanish frigate
La Pala. The first or native name is that applied to them by Captain Lütke,
though he did not see them.
They were seen by Captain R. L. Hunter, December 10th, 1840. He
made the centre in lat. 3° 52′ N., long. 154° 56′ E. They form a group of
small, low, coral islands, covered with cocoa-nut and other trees, and con-
GREENWICH ISLAND, ETC.
753
nected by a reef, forming a lagoon inside. The whole group is only about
12 or 14 miles in circumference. They are well inhabited, by a fine, hand-
some race, who are above the mean stature, and resemble the natives of the
Navigator Islands in appearance. Their canoes are neat, and capable of
carrying 12 men.
GREENWICH or Constantin Island.-This isolated spot was seen in
1825, and then had the first name applied to it. It was again reported in
the Nautical Magazine, 1852, page 226, and was considered as doubtful.
It was then seen on December 20th, 1853, by the late Captain Tardy de
Montravel, of the French Marine, who has done great services to hydrogra-
phical science, when proceeding in the French ship Constantin, to New
Caledonia. He saw a group of low islets, to which he gave the name of his
ship. The group is composed of a dozen low islets covered with stunted
cocoa-nut trees, which would not be visible beyond 10 miles. They are en-
circled by a reef which from the mast-head appeared to enclose a lagoon. The
urgency of the voyage prevented any close examination, or its being ascertained
whether there were any inhabitants. The position of the northernmost islet
was determined astronomically to be in lat. 1° 4' N., long. 154° 47′ 55″ E.
They were again seen by Captain W. Symington, in the Northfleet, in 1864.
He says: It is of the usual form of a coral lagoon in its earliest stage, only
one-third of it being above water, and consisting of twenty-six small islets,
a few feet above water, and covered with cocoa-nut trees. Reefs extend in
a W.N.W. direction from the extreme N.W. islet to a distance of 5 miles.
It was not inhabited. It was also seen in the Spanish frigate Berenguela, in
1865, as in 1° 3′ N., 154° 54′ 50″ E.
From a mean of the positions stated it may be placed in lat. 1°3′ N., long.
154° 41' E.
Decapolis Reef, seen by the vessel of that name, in May, 1869, at half a
mile distance, in lat 0° 32′ N., long. about 152° 51′ E. It seemed to be
of small extent, and the sea, although smooth at the time, broke occasion-
ally over it.
ORALUK, San Agustino, or Bordelaise Island and reef, a small, low, coral
island, 2 miles long and about 60 feet high, with a reef projecting from it
to the S.E. for 15 miles, was perhaps discovered, in 1826, by Captain Saliz,
commanding Le Péruvien of Bordeaux. The reef forms a lagoon inside it,
and from its S.E. part the island cannot be seen. The island is in about
lat. 7° 39′ N., long. 155° 5′ E.
Several discoveries have been stated to be made in this immediate neigh-
bourhood. Jane Island, by Capt. Johnson, of the ship Guilford, in October,
1827, in lat. 7° 33′ N., long. 155° 3'. His description, which accords very
nearly with that of Capt. Saliz, is that of a small low island, half a mile in
North Pacific.
3 C
754
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
length, with a very dangerous reef running off the S.E. extreme of the island
to the distance of 5 miles, and a chain of rocks extending to the E.S.E., as
far as could be seen from the mast-head. Captain Polack, of the ship
Esmeralda, says (1862), that the island cannot be seen from the S.E. point of
the reef. It is therefore very dangerous.
The Isabella Reef, so called from the wreck of a whaler of that name, was
said in the usual vague manner to be 80 miles long, and in lat. 7° 21′ N.,
long. 156° 30′ E. This is very far to the eastward, and therefore must be
viewed with distrust. Still it shows that the neighbourhood requires ex-
amination. The following will still further demonstrate this.
Another is Larkins Reef, or Campbell Reef, a dangerous reef discovered by
Captain W. Campbell of the ship Larkins, February 23, 1830. The N.E.
point is placed in lat. 7° 36′ N., long. 155° 10' E. He did not see the small
island, but says it is 14 miles E.S.E. of Bordelaise Island. Meaburn Island,
on Norie's chart, in lat. 7° 49′, long. 155° 20′, must be the same. San
Agustino Island and Baxo Trista, discovered by Don F. Tompson, which,
though placed by him 2° to the East, would appear to be the same; more
particularly, as, should the position have been correct, he would have been
within sight of the high Séniavine Islands. Lütke discovered an error of
1° 4′ in the longitude of Los Valientes, which would reduce the discrepancies
to 1°, which Admiral Krusenstern considers ought not to be considered as
decisive. Although his opinion is that all these are identical, still San
Agustino Island may be placed as doubtful.
Bordelaise Island, therefore, it is very probable, is the only island. It is
covered with bushes and palm-trees, and can only be seen 10 or 12 miles.
A M. Edw. du Pernet, master of an Oahu schooner, was wrecked on its reef
in 1843, and remained on the islet five months, during which time they built
a small craft which carried them safe to Guam. He was pretty certain that
no other island existed near it. The island is uninhabited, but we cannot
be certain of its character, or of the authenticity of the various_announce-
ments, till a further examination is made.
Wishart Reef, Minto Breakers, or Costello Reef.-On January 3rd, 1842,
Captain J. R. Wishart, in the barque Countess of Minto, saw a patch of
breakers, dry in some places, more particularly in the North part, extending
in a N.W. and S.E. direction. He made it in lat. 8° 10′ N., long. 154° 19′
corrected. It was again seen by Captain Agostinho Costello in the Sardinian
schooner Sofia, Nov. 27, 1854. A wreck, with only the bowsprit and jib-
boom, was lying on the East part. It was described as of an elliptical form,
7 miles long East and West, and 2 miles broad North and South. Except
the small portion at the point where the ship lay, it was awash, or some feet
under water, when the sea breaks all over it. Lat. stated 8° 6' N., long.
154° 0′ E. It was again seen by Captain Richards, in the Siamese ship
Ocean Queen, July 25, 1855, the same wreck still lying on it. The position
LOSAP-MORTLOCK ISLES.
755
of the latter was lat. 8° 6' N., long. 154° 20′ 30″ E. It was again seen by
Captain Webb, in the ship Mildman, in 1858. He saw two wrecks on it, and
places the West end of it in lat. 8° 8′ N., long. 154° 29′ E.
From an announcement in the San Francisco Herald, a reef, 10 miles
long, lies in lat. 7° 56′ N., long. 154° 20′ E. All these announcements
evidently refer to the same reef, and are tolerably accordant. The mean of
the five positions, supposing them to refer to the South end, as they appear
to do, would place it in about lat. 8° 5′ N., long. 154° 17′ E.
Dunkin Reef, seen by the person whose name it bears in 1824, is marked
as an extensive shoal, the South end of which is in lat. 8° 50′ N., long. 154°
10' E. It is possible that it may be the same as Wishart Reef, but as
another announcement, by a whaler, places it nearly in the above latitude,
or 9° 0′ N., 55 miles northward of the mean latitude of the former, it must
be considered for the present as a separate danger, of unknown extent and
character, but in about lat. 8° 55′ N., long. 154° 5′ E.
LOSAP (Louasappe), or D' Urville Island.—This is a small island discovered
and named by Captain Duperrey, in lat. 7° 3′ 40" N., long. 152° 42′ 20″ E.
In the second volume of Admiral Krusenstern's Memoir (p. 347) it is called
Duperrey Island, but this was before the publication of that commander's
voyage. They are called the Westervelts Islands by the apocryphal Captain
Morrell, who believed them to be a new discovery, February 23, 1830. He
says they seem to be composed of three small low islands, of nearly equal
size, connected by a coral reef. They are well wooded with cocoa-nut and
bread-fruit trees. They were neither of them more than 5 miles in circum-
ference, and had biche-de-mar and pearl-oysters on the reefs. Population
200.*
MORTLOCK ISLES were discovered November 29, 1793, by Capt. James
Mortlock, commanding the ship Young William. Admiral Krusenstern ap-
plied the name of the discoverer to them, while on other charts the name of
his vessel is given. Mortlock only saw their South side, and consequently
gained a very imperfect notion of them. This is obviated by the examina-
tion made by Captain Lütke. He surveyed the group, and they are con-
sidered as separate islands in Dr. Gulick's list, consisting of Lukunor, Sotoan,
and Etal.
Captain Cheyne says that these islands are well inhabited by an able-
bodied race, of a light complexion. Strangers should be very cautious in
holding intercourse with them, as they are not to be trusted, no matter how
* SAN RAFAEL ISLAND of Captain Monteverde, 1806, and so named by Duperrey, is
placed in 7° 18′ N., long. 153° 54′ E., or 72 miles to the eastward of Losap or D'Urville
Island. It is not enumerated in Dr. Gulick's list, and therefore there is some doubt as to
its existence. If not, it is possibly the same as the latter island, as the descriptions in
some degree coincide.
3 c 2
756
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
friendly they may appear. Under no consideration should any of them be
allowed on deck.
The following are Lütke's descriptions of them :-Between the lat. of 5°
17′ and 5° 37′ N., long. 153° 59′ and 153° 37′ E., are three low coral groups,
on which may be reckoned ninety islets of various dimensions.
LUKUNOR (Lougounor, Lütke-Lugunor, Cheyne), the easternmost of
these groups, is of an oval form, and 18 miles in circuit. Lukunor Island, at
the eastern angle of this group, is curved into the form of a horse-shoe, and
forms an excellent port, which was named Chamisso, in honour of the
naturalist who gave to the world the first notions worthy of credit on this
archipelago. The breadth of the island is from half a verst (one-third of a
mile) to 150 paces. Its middle, raised about 7 feet above the water level, is
covered with bread-fruit trees, and on the shores particularly, cocoa-nut and
other trees, the fruit on the top of which frequently hangs down to the
water of the interior lagoon. The southern part of the island is sandy, but
towards the North there is much vegetable mould, on which are distributed
the arum plantations, which require a very humid soil, and near to which
are all the habitations of the natives. These plantations are intersected by
narrow channels, which conduct the water to irrigate all parts, and serve as
boundary marks. The woods which surround them form a magnificent
panorama, where plants of every species are in infinite variety, giving the
most excellent idea of the productions of these low islands.
The island naturally has no fresh water, but the rain water is collected in
trenches and in a sort of reservoir, which the natives excavate in the trunks
of those cocoa-nut trees that were inclined. The water in the trenches was
always found to be brackish, and smelt bad. This slight resource suffices
for the inhabitauts, inasmuch as they drink but little, and the cocoa-nut sup-
plies the deficiencies by its delicious contents.
The Lukunorians were found by Captain Lütke to be hospitable, kind,
reserved, and of agreeable manners. They are above the middle size; they
had apparently had some communication with shipping previously, either
by report or otherwise. Their canoes, in which they pass a considerable
portion of their lives, are constructed with infinite pains, and are very care-
fully preserved, the larger ones on shore; and in their management they
show great skill and judgment in the very long voyages which they under-
take by these means. These islanders are the easternmost of the Caroline
natives who thus travel.
Lukunor offers no more resources than any other of the low coral islands.
The supply of fresh water depends on the abundance or scarcity of the rains.
There is no wood. A good supply of cocoa-nuts may be looked for; bread-
fruit can only be had in the season. Some poultry and pigeons were also
procured. Port Chamisso is in lat. 5° 29' 20" N., long. 153° 58′ E. Captain
Cheyne places it 8 miles further West. The population is about 200.
THE SOTOAN GROUP, ETC.
The SOTOAN GROUP lies to the S.W. of Lukunor.
757
It is 17 miles in
length from N.W. to S.E., and 12 miles broad. About sixty islets were
counted on it. In two places openings in the reef were observed, by means
of which, doubtless, an entrance into the lagoon might be effected. All the
islets are covered with wood, but it appeared to be less populous than
Lukunor. Only two or three canoes approached the Séniavine, but no com-
munication was held with them.
Capt. Cheyne in the Naiad visited the islands in Oct. 1844. He found a
good passage through the reef, on the S.W. part of the group, and anchorage
in the lagoon, near the entrance, but the bottom was very uneven and rocky.
The Naiad anchored in 25 fathoms, about three-quarters of a mile to the
northward of the entrance, inside of a small islet bearing S.W. from her
one-quarter of a mile, and lay there three weeks, during which time they
built a biche-de-mar house on the small island, but could not get the natives
to collect the slug, and consequently were obliged to leave. The present
population is about 500.
Captain Cheyne places the N.W. extreme in lat. 5° 27′ N., long. 153° 27′
East, and the South extreme in 5° 16′ N., 153° 40′ E.
The ETAL GROUP is the third and northernmost of the Mortlock Isles ;
it is a small group, not more than 12 miles in circumference, and composed
of several low coral islands and islets, thickly wooded, connected by a reef,
forming a lagoon inside. The channel between it and Sotoan is about 5
miles wide, and clear of danger. The centre of the group is in lat. 5° 38′ N.,
long. 153° 24′ E. (Cheyne). Population 200.
The NAMOLUK ISLANDS lie 35 miles to the N.W. of Lukunor. In
coming from the North the Séniavine passed them, at the distance of less
than 12 miles, which shows how readily these islands may be unnoticed
even within such a distance. They were also probably seen by Captain
Harwood, in the ship Hastings. They are most likely the same as the
Hashmy Islands (called by Dr. Gulick Mokor), announced as being very popu-
lous in the Sydney Herald, March 25, 1833. Captain Cheyne of the Naiad
says they are five in number, the group 15 miles in circumference, of a
circular form, 100 feet high (to the top of the trees ?), and well wooded
with cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and other trees. The reef may be approached
within 200 yards, as no hidden dangers exist. The natives, he says, though
wearing the mask of friendship, are by no means to be trusted. Popula-
tion 300.
Captain Lütke, the real discoverer, places the N.W. isle in lat. 5° 55′ N.,
long. 153° 13′ E.
TRUK or Hogoleu Islands.-This group is composed of four or five large
and lofty basaltic islands, surrounded by a barrier reef, on which are a great
number of coral islands. It is one of the most extensive in the Caroline
Archipelago, and was discovered by Captain Duperrey, June 24, 1824. His
758
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
survey, published on a large scale in the atlas of his voyage, comprises
almost the sum of our knowledge of them, as the relation of his voyage, as
far as concerns this part of the Pacific, has not been published. According
to the chart, the northernmost of the group, Pise Island, is in lat. 7° 42′ 30″,
long. 151° 49′ 15"; the southernmost, Givry Island, in lat. 7° 9', long. 151°
51′ 45"; Torres Island, the westernmost, in lat. 7° 20', long. 151° 28'; and
the easternmost, in lat. 7° 33', long. 151° 59′. The largest of them, Tol, is
not more than 10 miles in circumference. It is of very irregular form, and
on each of its projections is a hill, that to the S.E. being 700 feet high. At
12 miles to the East of it is Ruk, 4 miles long and 700 feet high.
Tsis Islet is in lat. 7° 18′ N., long. 151° 49′ E. (Cheyne), is three-quarters
of a mile in extent, covered with cocoa-nut trees and other wood. It has
anchorage to the N.W. of it, and plenty of fresh water can be procured on
the North side.
The Royalist Islands of Captain Cheyne are probably the S.E. extreme of
Hogoleu. He passed 7 or 8 miles to the eastward of them in October, 1844,
and thought them a distinct group, as no part of the larger islands was
visible. They are low, of coral, covered with wood, and enclosing a lagoon.
They were thickly peopled by a vigorous race. Lat. 6° 47′ N., long. 152°
8' East.
Capt. Morrell gives a glowing picture of the people, but unfortunately it is
not correct. Capt. Cheyne, in the brig Naiad and Will-o'-the-Wisp, came here
in Oct., 1844, to collect biche-de-mar, and were completely taken off their
guard by the apparent friendliness of the natives, who at first assisted them
to build their curing houses. As soon as the brig left, they attacked the
schooner with a force of 2,000 men, and were only repulsed with desperate
fighting, and the loss of six killed and five wounded. They also seized the
long-boat, which was recovered the same day, and a severe drubbing admi-
nistered. They had a great number of large Spanish knives, and were
armed with brass-hilted cutlasses. The population, according to Dr. Gulick,
is 5,000.
Hall Island. In the relation of the voyages of Captain Saliz, in the
French ship Le Péruvien, 1825-27, it is stated that this group was discovered
by an English commander named Hall, in 1824, and that it consisted of two
groups, separated by a channel, which was named after his vessel, Lady
Blackwood Passage.
Captain Lütke examined them in detail, and describes them in his nar-
rative.
The MOURILEU GROUP, which lies to the N.E., is composed of nine
islands, the principal of which are Mourileu, Rud, and Namourousse. The
reef which surrounds them is of an irregular form. On the leeward side it
is for the most part submerged, and cannot be distinguished but by the
greenness of the water. Should a vessel strike on this by night, there can
NAMOLIPIAFANE-NAMONUITO ISLAND.
759
be but very little hope for safety. On the South coast of Ruâ there is a
passage, even for large ships, which renders it probable that anchorage
would be found in the lagoon. The inhabitants only occupy the windward
islands, and do not go to the S.W. angle of the group, except for the pur-
poses of fishing.
The easternmost islet, Mourileu, is in lat. 8° 47′ N., long. 152° 20° East.
Population 100.
NAMOLIPIAFANE or Fananou of Lütke, is 40 miles in circumference,
and encloses thirteen islands, the principal of which are Ikop, Fananou, and
Namouine. These islands, as well as those which compose the Mourileu
group, are very small, the largest not being more than two-thirds of a mile
long. The rest of the space is occupied by the reef, which is not less dan-
gerous here than that of Mourileu. The entrance to the lagoon is on the
South side.
Captain Lütke took off a sailor, William Floyd, who had been left here
by a whale ship, and from whom he gathered some particulars of the ar-
chipelago.
Namouïne, or Namouyne, the southernmost, is in lat. 8° 30′ N., long. 151°
421 E. Population 50.
EAST FAIU or Lutke Island.* This little island possesses a name which
was repeated in another to the westward; hence its prefix by Captain Lütke.
Krusenstern proposes the name of Lutke Island on this account. It is but a
small islet, not more than a mile long, and about three-quarters of a mile
broad. The Caroline Islanders sometimes touch at this island in their pas-
sages to procure fresh water, which is deposited by the rain in a small basin
on it. It is in lat. 8° 33′ 20″ N., long. 151° 26' E. Population 50.
NAMONUITO ISLAND.-The S.W. isle of this group was seen by Capt.
Ibargoitia, in the Philippine, in 1801. He called it Anonima, because it did
not appear on the charts. It was named by Morrell Livingston Island, in 1832.
In Captain Duperrey's chart it is called Bunkey's Island, from the name of a
commander who crossed the group (so it is stated) in 1824.
The Namonuito group, according to Captain Lütke's observations, lies
between lat. 8° 33′ and 9° 0′ N, and long. 150° 31′ and 149° 47′ E. Whether
as the commencement or the base of a group of islands, or else of a single
island, which some day will exist here, this place merits particular attention.
It presents all the aspect of the coral formation from its origin. Either from
its later formation or its greater extent, it remains behindhand of the rest of
the group, and does not yet form but the elements of a group. Here is the
bed of the future coral dike, having a depth equal to 20 fathoms, and be-
strewed with banks of little depth. At the windward limit of this dike there
* It may be observed that Admiral Krusenstern has applied the name of Lutke to the
large group to the West, next described in his atlas. This is probably an oversight.
760
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
are already some islets united together by a reef, but is not yet continuous;
on the opposite side there is also an island. The reefs extend from the two
extremities for a short distance along the dike, the space between it and
the reefs being occupied by submerged banks, which are still separated by
large intervals. It would be interesting to follow the progress of this in-
cipient coral group, which may take thousands of years to completely form,
and would then be one of the largest, being 85 miles from East to West.
The south-easternmost of the windward group is Piserarr, or Pisserarre (or
Pizaras of M. Chamisso), and is in lat. 8° 34′ 20″ N., long. 150° 32′ 30″ E.
Beyond this, on the N.E. face, are Ounalik, Amytideu, Pilipal, and Onooup;
and N.W. of these again are two other islets, Maghyr and Maghyrarik.
These three groups are united to each other by a reef, on which the sea
breaks in some parts; in others only marked by the greenish colour of
the water.
Onooun, the Anonima of Ibargoitia,
Between it and Maghyr, the reef
Capt. Lütke did not land on these
Present population 50.
The south-westernmost island, Ulul or
is in lat. 8° 36′ N., long. 149° 47' 30" E.
consists of a series of submerged shoals.
islands, but was visited by numerous canoes.
The Mannaijeu or Gray Feather Bank, which was stated by Chamisso
to be found by Don Luis Torres in lat. 8° 20′ N., long. 149°, and had 21
fathoms water on it, was unsuccessfully sought for by Capt. Lütke in this
position. He sailed on this parallel as far as long. 148° without finding
bottom with 50 fathoms of line. The determination of the position of this
bank is important, as it may be an island or reef in course of formation. It
is said that the discoverer sailed for three entire days on it.
This bank, probably, was again seen by Captain McLaughlin of the ship
Gray Feather, who fell in with discoloured water in 1851, and sounded in 19
fathoms, coral bottom. From aloft the reef could be distinguished as of a
circular form, 2 miles in circumference. Lat. 8° 9' North, long. 148° 44′
East. (Ann. Hyd. VII. p. 18.) This is 11 miles South of the older an-
nouncement, but it is perhaps not too great a discrepancy.
TAMATAM or Los Martires Island was seen by Duperrey, who places
Tamatam, the southernmost, in lat. 7° 34′ N., long. 149° 29′ E. They are
three in number, all small and low, with dangerous reefs jutting out from
them in all directions. Fanadik, the middle island, is 14 miles N.W. from
Tamatam, and is not more than a quarter of a mile in diameter, but is sur-
rounded by a reef. Olap, the northernmost, is 3 miles N.N.E. from Fana-
dik. It is the largest of the group, and, like the others, surrounded by
dangerous reefs. They are thinly populated, and appear to be very lightly
wooded. The largest and most abundant are the cocoa-nut trees; but the
inhabitants are badly supplied with fruits. There is but little inducement
to visit these islands, the less so on account of the reefs and dangers, the
POLOAT-IRONS SHOAL.
761
strong currents which set between them, and also from the hostile and
treacherous character of the natives. Population 200.*
POLOAT, or Enderby Islands, a name given to a group by Capt. Renneck,
in 1826, in the service of the well-known noble merchants of London. In
1799, Captain Ibargoitia discovered an island, which he called Kata Island;
but Freycinet decided that it was in reality two islands, one of which is
called Poulouhot (Poloat), and the other Alet, which is in lat. 7° 19′ 25″ N.,
long. 149° 17′ E. Population 100.
Enderby Bank, a coral reef with 7 fathoms water, lies 7 miles West of
Alet, and the Uranie Bank lies 6 miles eastward of Poloat; it has 22 fathoms.
SUK (Poulousouk, Sooughe), or Ibargoitia Island, was seen by Captain
Ibargoitia in 1799 and 1801. It was named Poulousouk (Pulo Suk) by Capt.
Freycinet, and was taken by Ibargoitia, though with no probability, for the
San Bartolomé of Quiros, in 1597. Its position is about lat. 6° 40′, long. 149°
8' E. Captain Cheyne places it in lat. 6° 35', long. 148° 22'. It is of coral
formation, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and similar in size and appearance
to Poulouhot. It is inhabited by a light-complexioned race, 100 in number.
It is called Sooughe on Lütke's chart. At 5 leagues to the East of it is a
bank seen by the vessel La Paz, in 1819.
Captain Cheyne says:-I was told by the master of a whaler some years
ago, that a coral bank, with irregular soundings of from 10 to 30 fathoms,
extends from this island to the N. W., for a considerable distance, and termi-
nates in a dangerous reef. The only idea he could give of the distance, was,
that when abreast of the reef, the trees on Pulo-souk were just visible from
the topsail yard. This danger requires confirmation; but ships passing
should be on their guard, and keep a good look-out.
Irons Shoal.-A coral shoal was sailed over by Captain D. Irons, of the
Lady Elgin. The spot struck in 10 fathoms was in lat. 6° 18′ N., long. 149°
28′ 30″ E. from which a depth of 7 fathoms was carried for about 1 mile
to S.S.W. and then to N.N.W., when broken water was seen to North and
clear water to West. (Naut. Mag. 1855, p. 278.) It may be the same as
the La Paz Bank of 1819, which is placed at 25 miles to the northward.
* BLACKLOCK SHOAL.-Captain Blacklock, of the ship Cowiemulzie, in 1861, reported a
shoal at 20 miles E. by N. N. from the Martires, in lat. 70° 35′ N., long. 149° 36′ E. He
saw the bottom quite distinctly under the ship, and all around her, with casts of 7 fathoms
on one side of the ship, and 15 fathoms on the other; he believed the water was much
shoaler in some places, as some of the coral heads appeared to him close to the surface. He
sailed for 3 miles on an East course, carrying soundings of from 7 to 15 fathoms, then
suddenly 30, and no bottom at 100 fathoms. If the position of this shoal is correct, the
Martires must be considerably too far to the eastward on the charts, and it should be ob-
served, that it would be impossible to see them at the distance reported by Captain
Blacklock.
762
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
PIKELOT or Coquille Islet.—This small islet was seen July 3, 1824, by
Captain Duperrey, in lat. 8° 12′ N., long. 147° 41' 30" E. It was named
after Duperrey's vessel by Krusenstern; the discoverer named it Bigali;
Lütke writes it Pigali, or Pyghella. Don Luis Torres, who saw it and the
adjacent island, names them Pigouelao and Faliao. It is more than 300 yards
in diameter, and nearly level with the water's edge, and surrounded by a
reef. It is covered with a thick undergrowth of bushes, and about fifty
cocoa-nut trees. It is uninhabited.
WEST FAIU ISLET, which lies in lat. 8° 7′ North, long 146° 47′ 30″
East, that is, 55 miles exactly West of Pikelot, is a similar islet to it, both
in size and character; the reef forms a small bay on it. There is a high
wood on it, among which bread-fruit trees were seen, but not a single cocoa-
nut tree. It is also uninhabited. There is another island of the same name
to the eastward, before alluded to, which has been named Lütke Island for
distinction.
The Oraitilipou Bank, seen by Don Luis Torres, lies somewhere between
these two islets. It had but 11 fathoms over it, but was not found by Lütke,
after a careful search.
Pikela or Lydia Island is marked on Captain Duperrey's chart in lat. 8°
38′, long. 147° 10'. Its existence may be considered as doubtful, but it is
mentioned in Dr. Gulick's list.
SATAWAL (Setuahal) or Tucker Island, was seen by Captain Wilson, in
the missionary ship Duff, October 25, 1793. Duperrey places it in lat. 7°
22′ N., long. 147° 6' E. The island is not more than 2 or 3 miles in circum-
ference, and the articles of subsistence it produces are supposed to be only
fish, roots, cocoa-nuts, and, perhaps, bread-fruit. When the Duff approached,
some canoes of natives (not a stout race) came off, and two men, Tucker and
Connelly, deserted here. Captain Cheyne (1846) says that it may be ap-
proached within one-quarter of a mile, as no hidden danger exists; that it is
of coral formation, covered with cocoa-nut trees. It has about 200 in-
habitants.
Swede Islands.-These islands consist of three separate groups, that to
the East being named Lamotrek (Namurrek or Namouttek); the western-
most, Elato; and the southernmost, Olimarao or Namoliaour. They are
most likely the islands named Swede and Haweis Islands by Captain Wilson,
of the Duff, 1793, the first on account of a Swedish sailor of his, who was
landed at his own request on one of them. They were examined by Lütke.
LAMOTREK (of Dr. Gulick), an atoll of a triangular form, is 6 miles in
extent E.S.E. and W.N.W. Several islets stand on the reef, which encloses
the lagoon, the S.E. of which is in 7° 32′ N., long. 146° 30′ E. Popula-
tion 200.
ELATO or Haweis is nearly on the same parallel as Lamotrek, in lat. 7°
30′ N., long. 146° 15′ E. This side of the group consists of an uncovered
OLIMARAO ISLES-IFALIK ISLANDS.
763
reef, with some islets, one of which is called Falipi. On the chart of Can-
tova, nearly in this spot, is marked Bank of Falipi. Can this bank have
become an island in the interval of 100 years? There is a port in the Elato
group, and the vessels sent from the Marianas to collect biche-de-mar always
stop here. Captain Lutke could not find the entrance to the lagoon, which
he was afterwards told was on the eastern side, contrary to the usual law of
coral reefs. The natives were very shy, and would not visit his ship. Pre-
sent population 300.
Ianthe or Nile Shoal.-Two shoals have been announced as existing at
80 and 102 miles respectively distant from Ifalik or Wilson Island, in a S.
by E. direction. The first by the ship Ianthe in 1845, as in lat. 5° 53′ N.,
long. 145° 39′ E. (Naut. Mag. 1846, page 265, and 1861, page 166); and the
second by the barque Nile, in 1860, as in lat. 5° 31' N., long. 145° 42′ E.,
nearly on the same meridian, but 22 miles apart.
The Ianthe passed within one or two ships' lengths of the eastern edge and
the shoalest part of a ridge of sharp rocks (apparently not more than 8 or
10 feet under water, the water of a milky whiteness) in soundings of proba-
bly 6 or 8 fathoms. The shoal appeared to extend S. by E. and N. by W.
about half a mile. The Ianthe claims to have obtained on the same day a
good meridian altitude, and estimates the nearest land to have been distant
85 miles. The Nile passed over a reef, with little room to spare, the rocks
being plainly seen on each side of the vessel, and the man aloft reported
breakers on one side; the barque was before the wind, and only a few
minutes between the rocks. Notwithstanding the great difference in the
latitude, the two reports refer probably to one and the same reef.
Should they be but one reef, the mean latitude would be 5° 42′ N., other-
wise there may be a continuous reef or series of reefs between the above
parallels.
OLIMARAO ISLES, two small islets surrounded by a reef, discovered in
1828 by Capt. Lutke, in lat. 7° 43′ 30″ N., long. 145° 56′ 45″ E. The group
is not more than 5 or 6 miles in circuit, and seems to have some timid inha-
bitants, who asked for food, now about 200 in number.
IFALIK or Wilson Islands.—This is a small group, seen as two isles by
Wilson, in the Duff, in 1793. They were visited by Lutke, April 3, 1828,
and were found to consist not of two, but of four islets; Ifalik (or Evalouk),
Moai, Ella, and Fararik, lying, as usual, on the edges of a lagoon about 5
miles in circumference. This group is more populous in proportion than the
others. The Séniavine was soon surrounded by twenty-five canoes, contain-
ing at least a hundred natives, who were distinguished from all the rest of
the Caroliners by their clamorous disposition; he had some little trouble
from their stealing propensities. Captain Cheyne says there is a good
boat passage through the reef, on the South side of the group. The islets
764
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
are covered with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees. The N.E. point of the
group is in 7° 15' N., 144° 30' E. Population 200.
WOLEA or Ulie Islands.-Captain Wilson, in the Duff, 1793, discovered
a group which he named the Thirteen Islands; but when the minute ex-
amination was made by Lieut. Zayalichine, Captain Lutke's officer, it was
found to consist of 22 islands, the names of which are very well designated
on Capt. Freycinet's chart and by M. Chamisso. The name, as given on the
chart on a large scale then drawn up, is Oulleay, in the narrative Ouleai, by
Dr. Gulick as above.
From the observations made in the Seniavine, the southern point of Raour,
the easternmost of the group, lies in lat. 7° 20′ 7″ N., long. 143° 53′ E.
The charts of this group are a very good example of what exaggeration
will do to mislead the navigator. In the old charts this group occupies a
space of two or three degrees in longitude. Captain Freycinet reduced it to
seventy miles; but when the survey was made by Captain Lutke, it was found
not to exceed six nautic miles in extent.
The fatiguing uniformity of the coral islands has at least this advantage,
that one description serves for all. But the Wolea group differs from the
others in this respect. Its figure is very irregular; it has two projecting
angles to the North, and a deep indentation between them. According to
the usual hypothesis of formation, this figure cannot be explained but by
supposing that two independent groups were formed at the same time in
this part. The channel of 12 yards, between the islands of Angaligarail and
Farailes, seems to mark their separation. The reef, which extends thence
to the S.E., reunites abreast of Motogozeu to the reef running from Raour
Island, thus completing the eastern group; at the same time a depth of 4½
fathoms, and the reef extending East and N.E. from Felalis, marks the
direction of the prolonged reef, which would in time reach to Farailes, and
form the western group.
WOLEA or Ouleai, properly so called, is advantageously distinguished not
only from the rest of the group, but from the generality of coral islands.
Its southern side has not the shoal which renders landing so difficult else-
where; but the shore rises with a tolerably steep ascent, presenting an even,
clean, sandy bottom, on which every grain of sand may be seen through the
transparent water at the depth of several fathoms. The interior of the
island is pleasant; it is a wood intersected in all directions by footpaths,
and dotted with cleared spots, where you meet with isolated houses. Unlike
the generality of coral islands, when you advance only a few steps from one
shore, and then reach the opposite, it occupies a large space, on which fine
bread-fruit trees have sufficient room to form a sort of park. It occupies
the N.E. angle of the group, and is of an irregular triangular form, three-
quarters of a mile in diameter. Its North extreme is in lat. 7° 22′ 6″ N.,
long. 143° 57′ 53″ E.
FORAULEP.
765
Palliou Island extends from its S.E. extremity in a nearly true South direc-
tion, and is nearly connected with Raour Island, the south-easternmost of
the group, the two together being 1½ mile in length.
On the western side of Raour, off the North part of which the Seniavine
anchored, are four or five artificial harbours, such as had not been seen in
any other part of the Carolines. A jetty of large stones ran out for 100
yards into the sea, and at each side of its extremity another line of stones,
projecting at an angle of about 60°, so that the whole has something the
form of an anchor. From the South end of Raour the reef projects nearly
half a mile; and between it and Tagoilap Island, 2 miles to the W.N.W., is
Motogozeu Islet, which is very small, and, like all the rest, surrounded by a
reef, so that the anchorage in the eastern group has two entrances, one on
each side of Motogozeu.
Felalisse or Falalis Island, the S.W. of the group, lies 2 miles to the S.W.
of Tagoilap. Between it and Motogozeu there are some detached coral
patches. The reef runs to the N.W. three-quarters of a mile from Felalisse,
leaving a navigable opening into the lagoon between it and Falulap or Fa-
luellap, a small islet, one of a group which extends N.N.W. and N. 1½ mile
to Oulemeray, the N.W. island of the group. Thence the chain is continued
through Seliape and some smaller islands to E.S.E. to Farailesse, between
which and Langaligaraile is the very narrow but navigable channel before
alluded to, forming a northern entrance to the lagoon.
Captain Cheyne says: This group is well inhabited by a light copper-
complexioned race, who, although friendly in appearance, should not be
trusted. Their weapons consist of Spanish knives, spears, clubs, slings, and
stones. Their canoes are similar in shape to the proa of the Mariana Islands.
They perform voyages to Guam, and the other Caroline Islands in them.
Their food consists of cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, taro, bananas, sugar-cane, and
fish. Ships holding intercourse with these natives should not allow any of
them on deck. Dr. Gulick says the population is 600.
FORAULEP (Farroïlap or Fattoïlap) was in reality first discovered by
Lutke, March 28, 1828. Such an island is stated to have been seen by Don
L. Torres, but it had been placed at hazard on all charts previous to its
position being fixed as lat. 8° 36′ N., long. 144° 36′ E.* It is a small group,
not more than 4 miles in circuit, and composed of three islets, with a lagoon
in the middle. The group cannot afford much for resources. Its population
was about sixty able men in 1828. It is now uninhabited, according to Dr.
Gulick, who calls it Gardner Island.
* It is rather singular that Capt. Wilkes should state this island to be in lat. 10° 45′ N.,
long. 146° 27′ E., from the charts. The Flying Fish consequently passed over this position
without seeing any indication of land; the same with Feis Island. Narrative of the United
States' Exploring Expedition, vol. v. p. 271.
766
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
GRIMES ISLAND.—From a report in the China Mail, Captain Grimes of
the ship Jean discovered, in 1841, a high and well-wooded island, of 6 miles
in circumference, in lat. 9° 16′ N., long. 145° 43′ E. It was again seen in
1855 by Captain Vice, of the French ship Chili, in lat. 9° 17′ N. long. 145°
11' E.; the descriptions entirely agree, and differ quite from Farroilep. It
has since been announced as High Island, in lat. 9° 11' N., long. 145° 45′ E.,
so that the latter position is probably nearly correct. It is not included in
Dr. Gulick's list.
EAURIPIK or Eourypyg is a small group, composed of only two islets.
Lutke, who passed along its northern side, had no communication with the
inhabitants who he saw standing on the beach, consequently could gather
no particulars of it. It has a lagoon. Their existence was then established,
though on Arrowsmith's chart two islands are placed nearly in the same
position, stated to have been seen by Captain Hunter in 1791; there is no
notice of this given in his narrative. Their position is lat. 6° 40′ N., long.
143° 10' E. Captain Cheyne calls them the Kama Islands, and were visited
by him in September, 1844. The population amounted to about 150; now
it is only 50. The islets produce nothing but cocoa-nuts.
On
SOROL or Philip Islands, two small islands, both seen by Captain Hunter
in 1791. The easternmost is the largest, and is 5 miles from the other.
Captain Lutke's chart they are placed in lat. 8° 6' N., long. 140° 52'. Popu-
lation 20.
FAIS or Tromelin Island.—In 1828, Captain Legoarant de Tromelin disco-
vered a small low island in lat. 9° 52′ N., long. 140° 42′ E., to which Adm.
Krusenstern gave his name. It is said that it is 5 miles long and 2 miles
broad. Captain Lutke examined it in 1828, and places it in lat. 9° 47′ N.,
long. 140° 38′ E., calling it Feis or Feys. The size he mentions is also very
different from Captain Tromelin. He says:-This island is remarkable,
because it is the only one of the Carolines that has no lagoon; it is formed
of madreporic rocks, 30 ft. high, against which the sea beats immediately. It
is four versts (23 miles) in circumference. There is no anchorage in any part.
On the South side, where the coast is sandy, there is less surf. Landing
was very difficult here, and the natives were not so good sailors as in any
other island of the archipelago. Bread-fruit trees were rare, but bananas
were in tolerable abundance. Population 300.
ULITHI or Mackenzie Islands.-This group was discovered by the Spanish
navigator, Egoï, and was seen in 1823 by Captain Mackenzie, who gave
some notice of it in the Asiatic Journal for June, 1824. It was partially
examined by Capt. Lutke, who states that the native name is Ouluthy.
It was on one of the group, Mogmog, that the Spanish Jesuit, Padre Can-
tova, was killed on his second visit to the Carolines. This was during the
endeavours to establish Catholic missions throughout the archipelago. When
Captain Lutke passed Falalep, on which the mission was planted, he was
EAP OR YAP.
767
unable to land; which is to be regretted, as it would be interesting to learn
the result of the missionaries' devotedness after the lapse of a century.
The Islands Mogmog, Falalep, and others, on which was this Spanish
mission, are at the eastern part of the group. The whole is of great ex-
tent, and consists of low coral islands, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and
connected by coral reefs, forming a large lagoon inside, with many good
passages through the reef leading into it. This group is thickly populated
by a light-complexioned race, whose manners and customs are similar to
those of the other Caroline islanders. These natives, although apparently
mild and friendly to a stranger, are by no means to be trusted, as one or two
Manila vessels were cut off at this group some years ago.
The two small islands on the eastern group, Ear and Khilap or Hielap,
are connected by a reef to each other and to some others beyond them.
These isles are inhabited, and from them a shoal extends for 15 miles to the
S.E. The bottom was distinctly visible on its outer edge from the Seniavine,
but some natives who approached said there was no danger in approaching
these islands, though their notions of such danger might be very different
from ours.
The western group, which is 8 leagues in extent from North to South, is
formed of a great number of small islands (the chief of which are Mogmog or
Moguemogue, Troilem, Falalep, &c.), united together by coral reefs. The
two groups are separated by a channel 8 miles broad, into which Captain
Lutke entered as far as the middle. The United States' schooner, Flying
Fish, entered the lagoon with not less than 7 fathoms on the bar, and pro-
cured some fish and cocoa-nuts from the natives. They are now about 200
in number.
The S.W. point of the eastern group, which may be taken as the centre
of all the islands, is in lat. 9° 56′ N., long. 139° 50′ E.; and the island
Mogmog, the northernmost of the western group, is in lat. 10° 6′ N., long.
139° 45′ 30″ E. Captain Wilkes makes the East extremity of them in lat.
10° 7′ 53′ N., and long. 139° 54′ 58″ E.
EAP or Yap has been seen by many navigators, both in early times and
more recently. The Padre Cantova gives it a circumference of 40 leagues,
but it is not nearly so extensive. It is frequently made by ships taking the
eastern passage to China, and is also called Unawb by Captain Horsburgh.
At a distance it assumes the appearance of two or three islands, and when
nearer it seems like a group of islands, contiguous to each other, the whole
encompassed by a chain of black rocks. This deception probably caused
Captain John Hunter, who passed it in 1791, to place three islands in this
situation.
The island has a pleasing aspect from the sea, being interspersed with
many houses. It is estimated to extend from North to South about 34
768
CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
leagues, and the position of the North end has been inferred to lie in lat.
9° 40′ N.; of the South end the latitude has been given from the mean of
several observations, 9° 30′ 30″ N.; the longitude, also from numerous ob-
servations, from 138° 7′ E. to 138° 83′ E. The southernmost land is low,
but rises to the northward into hills. This island is not covered with wood,
but many parts appear luxuriant, and abound in cocoa-nut trees. On the
southern and western sides the reef is dangerous, and it extends in a W.S.W.
direction 2 leagues from the S.W. end of the island. It is steep-to, and
some of the black rocks appear just above water near its extremity.
Captain Cheyne says:-The island is surrounded by a coral reef, which
extends from its southern end 2 or 3 miles; and more in a W.S.W. direction
from the S.W. point. It is possessed of an excellent harbour on the S.E.
side, formed in an angle of the coast, by reefs. The entrance, which is
through the reef, is about 200 yards wide, and can easily be made out from
the mast-head when standing along the reef. When inside the channel
widens, and trends more to the northward. The anchorage at the head of
the harbour, off the village of Tomal, is perfectly safe, the holding-ground
good, and the depth of water moderate.
The South part of the island is low, but it rises into hills towards the
centre, which is moderately elevated. It is visible 8 or 9 leagues, and makes
in three hummocks, which would lead a stranger passing to mistake it for
three islands. There is very little wood inland. The shore in many places is
lined with mangroves, and the low lands between the villages are covered
with small wood. The cocoa-nut tree is very abundant, particularly on the
southern part. The villages are situated near the shore amongst groves of
cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and betel-nut trees. In consequence of the scarcity
of large timber, the natives get their proas built at the Pallou Islands, which
they frequently visit.
The natives are an able-bodied race, well formed, and of a light copper
complexion. They are more advanced in civilization than any of the other
Caroline Islanders; their villages being regularly laid out in streets, which
are neatly paved. They have also well constructed stone wharves and piers.
Each village has a large paved square, where the chiefs assemble for con-
sultation. Captain Cheyne remained here seven weeks in 1843, collecting
biche-de-mar.
Eap, as before stated, is thickly populated by a light-complexioned race:
they are of a treacherous disposition, and have cut off several Manila
vessels which have gone there to collect biche-de-mar.
The chiefs con-
fessed to Captain Cheyne, of the Naiad, that they had taken two Spanish
vessels; the last one having a crew of fifty Manila men, who were all
massacred.
The tribe at the harbour had formed a conspiracy to cut them off, but
NGOLI OR MATELOTAS ISLANDS.
769
they were put on their guard by a neighbouring hostile tribe. No merchant
vessel passing should have any intercourse with these natives, or allow
them on deck, as they are not to be trusted. Dr. Gulick says that the present
population is 2,000.
Hunter Reef, a narrow coral reef, over which Captain John Hunter
passed in the Waakzamheydt, July 17th, 1791. He had 16 fathoms water
when on it, and saw the bottom very distinctly. It extends nearly North
and South, and is about 7 leagues N. by E. of Yap. Lat. 9° 57′ N., long.
138° 13' E.
NGOLI or the Matelotas Islands. The first notice of these islands was
given by Villalobos, who discovered them in 1545, but it would appear that
they had been previously visited, for the inhabitants approached holding up
a cross, and calling Buenas dias Matelotas, from which their name was given.
On Captain Lütke's chart they are called the Western Lamoliaour Group;
Dr. Gulick says Lamoliork Islands; and they have been called the Goulou
Islands. They were seen in 1796 by Admiral Rainier, in the Suffolk, who
gave them the name of Spencer Keys.
The Ngoli or Matelotas group is composed of three small, low, and wooded
islands, connected by reefs and sand-banks. The two northern ones bear
from each other N.E. E. and S. W. 2 W., and it is dangerous to approach
them in the night, as a coral reef projects 2 leagues to the northward of the
N.E. island, having in some places high breakers. On January 3rd, 1798,
Captain Moring, in the ship Duckingfield Hall, had great difficulty in weather-
ing the group.
He says:-"How far the reefs may extend to the westward
I cannot pretend to say, but they stretched farther than we could see on a
clear day. The distance from the northernmost to the southernmost island
is about 6 leagues." In 1843 the South island was inhabited, but the popu-
lation did not amount to more than thirty-five souls, who live entirely on
cocoa-nuts and fish. The population of the group is 100.
Captain Cheyne thus describes them :-The South islet, which has cocoa-
nut trees, and a few inhabitants on it, is in lat. 8° 17′ N., long. 137° 33′ E.
From this to the N.E. islet, which is in lat. 8° 35′ N., long. 137° 40′ E., the
reef on the eastern side, is at some distance from the South islet, in de-
tached patches, on which the sea does not break with a westerly wind. The
reef extends 6 miles in a northerly direction from the N.E. islet; and its
North extreme is in lat. 8° 41′ N. The western islet lies in a S.W. by W.
direction from the N.E. one, and is also surrounded by dangerous reefs.
Their extent to the West and N.W. has not been ascertained, but they pro-
bably connect the islets. There is a passage on the N.W. side of the South
islet leading to the lagoon, but the anchorage inside, if any, would be very
unsafe. This is a most dangerous group, and should have a good berth in
passing, particularly in hazy weather, or dark nights, as the islet cannot be
North Pacific.
3 D
770
PALAU OR PELEW ISLANDS.
seen above 10 or 11 miles in clear daylight, and strong currents often prevail
in their vicinity. The southern islet is safe to approach on the South side,
as no hidden dangers exist.*
PALAU OR PELEW ISLANDS.
There is no doubt but that these islands are the same as the Arrecifos
of Villalobos in 1545. According to the Spanish missionaries, Padres Clara
and Cantova, the native name is Paulogue; other authorities call them
Palaos, Pally, or Pallou. In the charts made by Captain Macluer they
are called Pellew. But the name by which they were generally known
is Pelew, which, though not exactly correct, has for this reason been
retained.
It is very generally known that we acquired a more particular knowledge
of these isles and their inhabitants, from the wreck of the Antelope packet,
Captain Wilson, which was lost upon the coast in 1783. "The captain,"
says an intelligent writer, "found the natives delicate in their sentiments,
friendly in their disposition, and, in short, a people that do honour to the
human race. The astonishment which those who first discovered the English
manifested on seeing their colour, plainly showed that they had never before
seen a white man. The country is well covered with timber trees, the trunks
of which furnish the natives with canoes, some large enough to carry thirty
Yams and cocoa-nuts, being their chief article of subsistence, are at-
tended to with the utmost care. They have also the bread-fruit tree, oranges,
lemons, and other fruits. The men go entirely naked; the women nearly so.
The conduct of these people towards the English was uniformly courteous
and attentive, accompanied with a politeness which surprised those who were
the objects of it."
men.
1
Captain Cheyne says-The Pallou natives are quite a distinct race from
the Caroline Islanders. They are of a much darker complexion, less robust
generally, and of smaller stature, but a great deal more intelligent, and
polished in their manners.
Captain Robertson, in his memoir of 1795, has very justly censured the
officers of the Antelope for not having given, in any part of their narrative,
the smallest information, or "said one single word, whether it was possible.
for a ship to anchor amongst, or near, any of these islands;" and he ob-
serves that the only piece of nautical information he could find is the general
description of their limits, which he has shown to be grossly erroneous.
Captain Robertson says that the group "is a distinct range or chain of
* Warwick Island, a whaler's report, in lat. 4° 24' N., long. 136° 26' E., requires con-
firmation.
PALAU OR PELEW ISLANDS.
771
islands, extending 28 leagues in length N.N.E. and S.S.W., but in breadth
very narrow; they are of moderate height, small in size, and in number al-
most innumerable; they have often been seen by the India Company's ships,
going to China by the eastern passage. In the Vansittart, 1781, I had an
opportunity of exactly determining their southern extremity and eastern
direction; we fell in with that side, and stood on to the N.N.W., thinking to
weather them. After getting sight of the northern islands, the wind changed
more northerly, which even prevented us from being able to weather the
island we at first took to be the northernmost, but which we found was not
so; therefore, judging it impracticable to get to windward, without a great
loss of time, we wore and stood to the southward, coasting along the islands,
at the distance of about 4 or 5 leagues from the East side; rounded the
southernmost, at the distance of 3 leagues; from which we took a departure
allowing the latitude, by a good meridian altitude, to be 6° 56' N.; the
northernmost island I make to lie in lat. 8° 9′ N., from estimated bearings
and distance, two hours after the noon observation, which I was happy to
find, on comparison, perfectly agreed with the remarks of those ships which
passed to the northward of them, and had every opportunity of settling their
true latitude. As to their longitude, I am not quite so certain; there is such
a discordancy in all the accounts, that it is impossible for me to determine
exactly. I have taken the mean of what appeared to me most satisfactory;
which, I believe, is not very far from the truth. I had expected much satis-
factory and authentic nautical information respecting these islands from
Wilson's account of them, published by Mr. Keate; but in that I was sadly
disappointed, there being not one useful remark, throughout the whole book,
that could possibly be of the smallest utility to a seaman.”
A sketch of the southern range of these islands, by Lieutenant John
Macluer, was published by Mr. Dalrymple, in 1791, and the following in-
formation has since been collected, but a proper survey is very desirable and
necessary.
The circumstance by which this group and its history are made most fa-
miliar to English readers, is the account of Prince Lee Boo, who was brought
over from thence by Captain Wilson, after the wreck of the Antelope, Aug.
9, 1783. He was the second son of Abba Thulle, the king, and on his
arrival in England evinced such an aptitude for all civilized relations, with
such an excellent disposition, that his death, from small pox, which occurred
Dec. 27, 1784, when he was twenty years old, was felt throughout England
with lively sensation. He was buried in Rotherhithe churchyard, near its
N.W. angle, he having died in that parish. The East India Company erected
the vault over his remains.*
* An Account of the Pelew Islands, from the Journals of Captain Henry Wilson, by
George Keate, 4to., 1788; also a Supplement to the foregoing, by J. P. Hockin, M.A.,
4to., 1803.
3D 2
772
PALAU OR PELEW ISLANDS.
In the Supplement to the Voyage of the Antelope an account is given of
the visit of the ships Panther and Endeavour, which were sent out there with
the intelligence of Prince Lee Boo's death. In this portion, too, is the
account of Lieutenant Macluer's residence in the group. The whole of these
narratives place the natives in a most amiable light. But there is a dark side
to the picture; whether from the innate evil of the uncultivated savage, or,
what is more probable, from the aggressions of foreign ships touching there,
their fame has been sullied by treachery. The Syren, whaler, Capt. Coffin, was
nearly cut off here, March 21, 1823, on passing the southernmost island. They
came on board, 100 in number, apparently friendly; but watching an oppor-
tunity, they attacked the crew, and were only repulsed after desperate fight-
ing, during which most of the crew, thirty-seven in number, were wounded,
and two officers killed.
Captain Ibargoitia remained under easy sail for five days, in 1801, off the
islands, and gives as good an account of the natives, with whom he had con-
tinual communication, as does Captain Wilson; they most disinterestedly
brought off to him fish, cocoa-nuts, bananas, and various roots. He says that
Coror Island is the only one where you can anchor; but he was prevented
doing so by winds and currents.
The group extends for a distance of 40 leagues, in a North and South
direction; its greatest breadth is not more than 5 leagues; but taking into
account the surrounding reefs, this breadth would be doubled. It may be
separated into several minor groups, described as follows;-
Kyangle Isles.-The northern limits of the group consist of four small
islands, the largest of which is called Kyangle, having a circumference of 4
miles, in lat. 8° 8′ N., long. 134° 50′ E., or perhaps more correctly, 134° 35′
East. It was called Moore Isle by Captain Douglas, in 1788. The three
others are called Arayonzet, Carapellas, and Korack. The islands are sur-
rounded by a reef, whose diameter is 4 miles North and South. Captain
Douglas, of the Iphigenia, saw two other low or sandy isles at 8 miles West
of Moore (Kyangle) Island, which he calls Good Look-out Islands, portions of
the reef which dry in Macluer's chart.
The Reef to the northward of Kyangle is of a most dangerous character;
the more so that there is some uncertainty as to its extent. On Dalrymple's
chart it does not exceed the limits of the Kyangle group; but from the
evident assertion of Captain Douglas, that it extends to lat. 8° 45', and that
from this it extended to the West further than the eye could reach, so that
Admiral Krusenstern has on his chart extended it to long. 134° 20′, and
further, as but little is known to the southward of this N.W. extreme,
he has continued the reef over all the space to Douglas's Good Look-out
Islands.
Kossol. At 3 miles South from the Kyangle Islands is a small sandy
BABELTHUAP-COROR.
773
island, named Kossol, separated by a channel, probably full of banks and
breakers, 10 miles broad, from the North end of Babelthuap.
Babelthuap or Baubelthouap (the upper sea, in the Pelew language) is the
largest of the Pelew Islands. It is 9 leagues long North and South. A high
mountain, from the summit of which Lieutenant Macluer could see the
whole group, is in its northern part, in lat. 7° 40'. Its eastern extremity,
according to Krusenstern's, or rather Macluer's, charts, lies in lat. 7° 41′ N.,
long. 134° 58′ E.; and its northern point in lat. 7° 49′ N., long. 134° 52′ E.
But according to Captain Cheyne, commander of the Naiad, these longitudes
are 18′ too far East. He made the East end of Babelthuap to be in lat. 134°
40' E.
It is (or was) divided into several districts, of which Artingall, Emmelagui,
and Emevings, are the most considerable. Three small islands, Arteck, Kat-
tou, and Oorokoo, lie near the North point of the island; and an island of
considerable length North and South (with rocky islets along its East side)
lies on the S.E. side of the South point, from which it is separated by a very
narrow channel. The East side of Babelthuap is fronted by a barrier reef,
which commences at the South point of the above island, and about a mile
from the East point of Corror. The long detached reef, which forms New
Harbour, lies outside of this. The barrier trends along the coast in a N.E.
direction to lat. 7° 36′ N., where its distance from the shore is about 5 miles;
and from that to the northward to the eastern extremity, and in the same
direction, in almost a straight line to Kyangle, where it terminates; but from
Kossol Island, which is 3 miles to the southward of the Kyangle Isles, it is
merely a sunken barrier, or bank of soundings.
Coror, or Corrora, is separated from Babelthuap, bearing South from it,
by a channel 2 miles broad.
Coror, on which Abba Thulle, the king, resides, is 5 miles in length
E.N.E. and W.S.W.; and its greatest breadth, which is near the N.E. end,
21 miles. A long, narrow, rocky island lies close to the South side of Coror,
and three others near its West point. The southeasternmost of the three is
named Malackan. It has a tolerably high peak, by which it can be distin-
guished when outside the reef. Between the rocky island above mentioned,
and the N E. part of Urukthapel, is a good harbour. The entrance to it is
through a narrow opening in the reef, or coral flat, which extends from Uruk-
thapel to the South angle of the rocky island. The depth of water in the
channel is from 10 to 5 fathoms. A coral patch lies within the passage;
and one or two others in the outer part of the harbour. The best anchorage
is close to the East side of Malackan, in 15 fathoms, where there is a small
run of excellent fresh water. To the eastward of the bluff East point of
Urukthapel, and fronting the passage to the above harbour, is a space nearly
5 miles in length N.E. and S. W., where there is no reef, but merely a bank
774
PALAU OR PELEW ISLANDS.
1
of soundings, extending about 3 miles from the shore, on which there is good
anchorage. A ship may anchor in 13 fathoms with the following bearings,
where she will have plenty of room to get under weigh with any wind:
Malackan Peak, N.N.W. W.; the passage through the reef leading to
Malackan harbour, N.W. N.; and the East extreme of Babelthuap, or
islands which lie near it, N.E. E. Inshore of this the water deepens to 20
fathoms. This anchorage is in about lat. 7° 26' N.
The channel between the South end of Babelthuap and Corcr is 1 miles.
wide, and is navigable from sea, round the East and North sides of Coror,
to the King's village, near its western point, with a depth of from 10 to 25
fathoms in it; but on account of there being a reef, which is 10 miles in
length N.E. and S.W., lying to the eastward of Coror, fronting the entrance
and several coral patches within this reef, it is too intricate a passage for a
stranger to attempt. In Lieut McCluer's plan, 1793 and 1794, published by
the Admiralty, from which the islands are delineated on the charts, there ap-
pears to be good anchorage inside of this large reef, which he calls New har-
bour; but Malackan harbour is the best, and the only one which should be
resorted to by trading vessels.
The Island of Coror, although small, is the most important of the group,
through its being the seat of government. The king and chiefs are most
friendly and hospitable to foreigners, particularly to the English, who will
receive every protection while within the limits of their jurisdiction. Abba
Thulle, the king, nominally claims sovereignty over the whole group; but it
is only by force of arms that he is able to uphold his supremacy. The in-
habitants of the northern and eastern districts of Babelthuap do not acknow-
ledge his authority, and are often at war with Coror. Vessels trading
here should not dispose of fire-arms to any but the Coror people.—
(Cheyne).
Urukthapel is to the South of Coror. It is of a very irregular form. Its
greatest extent is 6 miles North and South. It is moderately elevated, very
rocky and barren, but covered with wood. The eastern shore is cliffy. From
its eastern high bluff patches of reef extend to the southward, with good
passages between, until about a mile to the southward of the North point of
Errakong, where it becomes continuous, and following the same direction
terminates at the passage formed by it and the N.E. islet above described.
There is anchorage within this reef on the East side of Errakong, but it
must be difficult to get out of with a N.E. wind. The N.W. side of Uruk-
thapel forms a bay, the shore of which is lined with small islets, and there
are also several in a bay on its S.E. side. The passage between Uruk-
thapel and Errakong is half a mile wide. The South point of the former
is in about lat. 7° 14′ 30″ N., long. 134° 24′ E. Urukthapel is not in-
habited.
ERRAKONG AND ANGAUR ISLANDS.
775
Errakong lies to the South of Urukthapel. Its South point is in lat. 7°
10' N., long. 134° 23′ E. The reef which surrounds the two islands on the
East side forms to the S.E. of the first a very excellent port, which has two
entrances, one to the East, the other to the West. The latter is round the
South end of Urukthapel, between it and Errakong and some small islets;
but as it is not more than half a mile broad, and is probably not well de-
scribed, it cannot be recommended to large ships. But to make up for
this, there are to the East of the island two other passages across the reef,
which may be preferable to it; the first, in lat. 7° 14', is three-quarters
of a mile broad; the second, 1 miles to the southward of it, is much
narrower than the former, but Lieut. Macluer passed it in his vessel.
Orolong, a small island, not more than 2 miles in length, lies off the N.W.
point of Urukthapel. Macluer first anchored near this island, and then
steered to the S.E., along the coast of the latter island to reach Errakong
harbour. The island is in lat. 7° 18′ N., long. 134° 19′ E.
Pelelew, a pleasant and fertile island, lies 7½ miles South of Errakong.
It is 8 miles long in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. Between its North
extremity and Errakong, and within the great reef, there lie, according to
Macluer's chart, several islands, one of which, named Akamokum, is sepa-
rated by a reef, across which is a passage not more than a quarter of a mile
broad, through which it is thought Macluer passed, as it is stated to be a
good channel. At the South extremity of Pelelew, or Pililau, the reef
which surrounds the group on the West side commences; within its limits
are several islands, as Kylo, Kourakong, and Imillis, which appear to be con-
nected with each other by reefs and shoals. The South extremity of Pele-
lew is in lat. 6° 58′ N., long. 133° 21′ E.
Angaur is the south-westernmost island of the group. It is low, and ex-
tends 3 or 4 miles in a N.E. and S. W. direction. The channel which sepa-
rates it from Pelelew is 5 miles broad. It is safe, but there are no soundings
the two extremities of the islands being steep-to. Captain Ibargoitia, who
beat through to the westward with a westerly wind, could find no bottom
even at a mile off the shore. He sent off a boat to the South end of this
island to procure water, but it could not approach within 2 cables lengths of
it, on account of the shallowness and the surf. The natives attempted to
serve them, by bringing some off in their canoes by means of the casks,
which were carried half a mile into the woods; but they brought but little,
and that not good.
Captain Ibargoitia, who calls this island Niaur, determined the latitude of
its S.W. point to be in 6° 53′ 55″ N., long. 134° 31'. Horsburgh observed
its long. as 134° 21′; the mean may be taken as 134° 26. But a recent ac-
count states that by several measurements, by good chronometers, from Ma-
cao and Manila, that it ought to be in 134° 6', so that, as elsewhere noticed,
the whole group has been placed nearly 20' too far East.
776
ISLANDS SOUTH OF THE CAROLINES.
Directly to the West of the S.W. point of this island, at the distance of
half a league, Lieutenant Macluer found a bank with 10 fathoms water; and
in 1806 the same commander, in the ship Mangles, found a reef extending
half a mile from this low sandy point; but Captain Horsburgh, who passed
close to the point in the Anna in the same year, did not see it, so it was sup-
posed not to exist.
Captain Mc Clellan, when passing around the South end of Angour, at
about 2 miles distant, saw breakers and a few black rocks show occasionally
for three-quarters of a mile off the South point, and also a few for a good
half a mile farther. Lat. 6° 55′ N., long. 134° 8′ E.
The archipelagoes to the south ward of the Caroline Islands, consisting of
the Salomon Islands, New Ireland, New Britain, the Admiralty Islands, &c.,
are described in our South Pacific Directory; but as the northern coast of
New Guinea, although South of the equator, may be considered as the
southern limit of the North Pacific, that coast and the islands will be briefly
alluded to here.
Anachoretes Island (Anchorites Island) was discovered by Bougainville,
August 7, 1768. It is a flat island, about 3 leagues long, covered with trees,
and separated into several divisions, connected by reefs and sand-banks.
Lat. 0° 54′ S., long. 145° 30'. There is a great quantity of cocoa-nut trees
on the island, and the sea-shore is covered with so great a number of
houses, that it must be extremely populous. The natives were fishing in
canoes off the island, and they appeared to be happy and contented. At
3 leagues to the West of it another low island was seen from the mast-
head (Commerson Island). It is 5 leagues W. by N. from the northern-
most of the Anachorètes, and in lat. 0° 45′ S., long. 145° 17′.—(Bougain-
ville, pp. 290-1).
Los Monjos (the Monks).-Four small low islands, which extend nearly 5
miles in an East and West direction. Maurelle first saw them in 1781, and
determined their position to be in lat. 0° 57′ S., long. (corrected) 145° 41′.
Captain Hunter also saw them.
Boudeuse Island was named by Bougainville after his ship, Aug. 9, 1768.
It is low, and in lat 1° 26', long. 144° 34′ E.
L'Echiquier (the Chess-Board), so named by Bougainville, consists of a
large collection of islets. D'Entrecasteaux placed upwards of thirty on his
chart, but states that it is probable that in the North part of it many were
They are only a series of low, flat islets, covered with wood. They'
not seen.
NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.
777
all appear to be connected by reefs. The South point is in lat. 1° 40′ 30″,
long. 144° 3'.
Los Eremitanos, or Hermits, were seen by Maurelle at 8 leagues distant.
They are described by D'Entrecasteaux as being high in the N.W. part,
and seemed to leave considerable intervals, but, on a closer approach,
they terminate in low lands, and are enclosed in a very narrow belt of
sand, within which is a large space of still water. They are inhabited;
the natives came off in canoes, and apparently were friendly.
Their po-
sition was perfectly determined; the N.E. islet is in lat. 1° 28′ 30″ S., long.
145° 7' 45".
Matty and Durour Islands.-Two small flat islands, discovered by Carteret,
September 19th, 1767. According to D'Entrecasteaux the first is in lat.
1° 33′ 40″ S., long. 143° 12′ 30″, and the second in lat. 1° 46′ 0″ S., long.
142° 56′. Carteret places them in lat. 1° 43′ 21', long. 143° 2′ E.
Tiger Island is a discovery of Captain Bristow in 1817, and communicated
by him to Mr. Purdy. It is about 6 or 7 miles in length, East and West,
and inhabited by a ferocious race of savages. Lat. 1° 45′ S., long. 142°
20' E.
NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.
It will be unnecessary to enter into any general description of this extensive
island. Its features, as far as they interest the mariner, will be found in the
ensuing description, which is chiefly derived from Admiral D'Urville. Our
extracts will be brief here, as its navigation has more reference to the
Oriental Archipelago than this work.
DAMPIER STRAIT separates New Guinea from New Britain, and is de-
scribed in our South Pacific Directory. The best channel through it is on
the New Guinea side, keeping the beach in sight, 6 or 7 miles distant.
Rocky Island of Dampier's chart, or Lottin Island of D'Urville, is an im-
mense cone of 3,000 or 4,000 feet in height, covered with verdure, with an
habitable belt on the sea-shore, without doubt occupied, as was announced
by several smokes. A large hollow on its N.E. side still indicates the
situation of an ancient crater.
Long Island is remarkable, as Dampier says, for two very projecting peaks,
one lying on the North and the other to the South of the island, and which
D'Urville named Reaumur and Cerisy Peaks. The surface of the first is much
cut up, and very irregular, and appears to have been a volcano. Off its
western point a reef runs out.
Crown Island, also named by Dampier, from its "towering up with several
heads or tops, something resembling a crown," is about 7 miles to the N,W.
of Long Island. It is about 4 or 5 miles in circumference, and of a very
778
NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.
great height (2,000 feet). The land, as it appeared to D'Urville, though very
irregular, did not present these "heads and tops."
CAPE KING WILLIAM, on the S.W. side of Dampier Strait, is very
high, and may be seen above 20 leagues distant. It is in lat 6° 16′ S., long.
147° 40'. The coast to the westward of it is composed of the immense
Mountains of Finisterre, which extend nearly to Astrolabe Gulf, 120 miles
further along the North coast. The mountains were roughly computed
by Captain R. L. Hunter to be 13,000 feet high. The interval has not been
explored.
Astrolabe Gulf, so named after D'Urville's vessel, lies between Capes Rigné
on the East, and Duperré on the N.W., about 24 miles apart, the depth of
the gulf being about 18 or 20 miles. The Finisterre mountains become
lower when near the gulf, which is completely surrounded by a line of
mountains, even in the bight of the gulf. On this part a great number of
smokes were observed.
Cape Croisilles, a well-marked promontory, lies 10 or 11 miles North of
Cape Duperré.
Sir R. Richs's Island of Dampier lies to the N.E. of these points. It is of
a similar nature to those already described, and resembles more particularly
Crown Island, but is a little larger and not quite so high.
Dampier Island, which is nearer the coast, is certainly not less than
5,000 feet high, in the form of a cone, pointed at the summit, but enlarged
at the base to 36 or 40 miles in circumference. Although it appeared capable
of cultivation, there was not any smoke or sign of inhabitants seen from the
Astrolabe.
Franklin Bay is 32 miles N.W. of Astrolabe Gulf, and is limited on the
North by Cape Gourdon, which forms a well-marked promontory, though.
slightly elevated. In general, in proceeding to the westward, the coast sen-
sibly decreases in height.
Vulcan Island is an immense cone, clothed with the most beautiful vegeta-
tion, and is not more than 12 miles in circumference. It is tolerably well
fixed in position, and nothing can render navigation more simple and easy
than these peaks planted on the surface of the ocean, serving as beacons for
ships to steer by in passing along an unknown coast. At 2 miles to the
N.W. of Vulcan Island is Aris Island, very much smaller, but still very
high.
The Schouten Islands, which lie off this part of the coast, are eight in
number, extending upwards of a hundred miles to the westward. They are
very high and conical, which denote an igneous origin. Their height con-
trasts singularly with the low elevation of the land of New Guinea near them.
They are covered with wood, and the main land, very low near the sea, is
mountainous within.
At 42 miles West of Bertrand Island, the western most, is a group of
HUMBOLDT BAY.
779
several islands, lying very near the coast, Sainson, Faraguet, and Dudemaine
Islands. The two first are low, and covered with large trees. Dudemaine
Island only has a small hill on its western end, of 100 or 200 feet in height,
which may be distinguished at a considerable distance among the surround-
ing low land.
At this part the belt of low land which lines the coast seems to form a
large valley between two chains of very high mountains. This configuration
would lead to the presumption that a considerable river would flow through
this valley. The coast of New Guinea, beyond these, offers nothing agree-
able in its aspect. At one part it rises in steep cliffs, and breakers seeming
to extend a mile off the shore. Far in the interior the summits of very high
mountains may be seen. At 3 leagues in the interior Mount Eyries raises its'
double peak above the clouds. The Astrolabe was drifted within half a
league of the land, and from the calm was obliged to anchor before a small
cove.
While lying near Mount Eyries, fifteen canoes, with outriggers, but in-
elegant, each carrying from three to eight natives, put off and surrounded
D'Urville's ship. There was not the slightest doubt of their hostile inten-
tions, and every one should, therefore, be guarded against their treachery,
when off this coast. From this part of the coast the imposing summit of
Mount Bougainville becomes visible in the West, raising its head a consider-
able height above the surrounding mountains.
Humboldt Bay, thus named by Captain D'Urville, lies to the West of this
mountain. It penetrates deeply into the coast, particularly to the S.E., and
it was presumed that in it excellent anchorages might be found. Its opening
was about 4 miles in width.
On one side the Cyclops Mountains, and on the other Mount Bougainville,
stand like gigantic sentinels, pointing out the entrance to Humboldt Bay to
the navigator at the distance of 20 leagues. The position of the entrance
was fixed as lat. 2° 23′ S., long. 140° 44′ E. To the West of Mount Cyclops
the coast descends with a gentle slope to the beach, and has some landing
spots, with points more or less projecting.
Matterer Bay, which lies 14 leagues westward of Humboldt Bay, is rather
deeper than any preceding. To the West of this inlet a low point, covered
with trees, Point Brama, projects considerably to the N.W.; and beyond the
coast again recedes, forming Walckenaer Bay. In the rear of these is a high
mountain (Mount Benoist), situated in the interior. At 50 miles to the West
is another lofty chain to which D'Urville gave the name of Gauttier Moun-
tains, after the great French hydrographer.
"In front of, and at 2 or 3 miles distance from, the low beach in front of
the Gauttier Range, several small islands followed each other. The largest,
Merat Island, is not more than 3 or 4 miles in circumference. At the dis-
tance we passed them, about 3 miles, they appeared to be covered with
780
NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.
·
The
Further to
clumps of cocoa-nut and other trees. At 20 miles further are the Arimoa
Islands. They are three small islets. When at 12 miles from them they
appeared as a single island, moderately elevated and well wooded.
chain of the Gauttier Mountains here terminates on the coast.
the West the land of New Guinea is very low, and can hardly be distin-
guished at the distance of 4 or 5 leagues. The great River Ambernoh or Re-
chussen, debouches here, forming a large delta, and sending a large volume
of turbid water into the sea.
"I consider, then, that it is a positive fact that these waters proceed from
some considerable river, which discharges itself into the sea on this part of
the coast. Bougainville observed the same thing in this part, and from it
drew the same deduction. Precisely in this part of New Guinea the land
forms a low point, Point D'Urville, very far advanced into the sea, and
everything tends to the belief that it is formed by the outlet of a consi-
derable stream."
Point D'Urville is very low and projecting, probably islands; according
to the observations made in the Astrolabe by M. Jacquinot, it is in lat. 1° 24′
South, long. 137° 47′ E. Stephen Islands are placed in lat. 0° 20′ S., long.
137° 55′ E., a doubtful position.
GEELWINK BAY is the very extensive bay of which Point D'Urville
may be said to be the easternmost point. We shall not describe it here,
but shall terminate our notice of New Guinea with Port Doreï or Dory, or
the N.W. point of the bay. Off its mouth are some very large islands,
Jobie Island, Mysory or Schouten Island, and others. The last named is very
imperfectly known.
Point Geelwink te rminates this portion of the coast, and here, perhaps, the
immense bay of the same name may be said to commence. West of this is
the extensive island of Jobie, and between its West end and Point Geelwink
is a smaller one, which nearly closes the passage, and was named by D'Ur-
ville, after one of his officers, Quoy Island.
Quoy Island is 8 miles long, and moderately elevated, well wooded, and
pleasing in appearance. A channel of only 3 miles in breadth separates
it from Point Geelwink, formed by a moderately high hill. A channel of
the same breadth separates it from the West end of Jobie, which descends in
a very gentle slope to the sea.
The Traitor's Islands lie to the North of Jobie, and off the East point of
Mysory, forming the North side of the Strait of Jobie. They are small
and low.
Jobie Island, which lies in the opening of Geelwink Bay, according to
M. D'Urville's chart, is about 90 miles in length, lying nearly East and
West. The Astrolabe only sailed along its northern side. The land on this
coast is high, steep, and covered with woods, without any openings. High
mountains form the central ridge. This aspect is preserved in the most
ST. DAVID ISLANDS.
781
uniform manner, and throughout its whole extent it did not appear to offer
a single cove or creek fit to receive a large ship. The mountains of Jobie
decrease in altitude on nearing its western extreme, and its West cape
is separated from Bultig by a channel 6 miles in breadth.
Bultig or Hump Island is hilly, of an irregular form, and 10 or 12 miles
in length, but not more than 4 miles broad. Three rounded islets, called
the Three Sisters, lie near its East point, and before its West point are two
similar islets, named by D'Urville the Brothers. Long Island is tolerably
large, and the land in general is but little elevated.
Port Dorei or Dory is situated immediately to the South of Cape Mamori,
which forms the westernmost and outer point of the entrance of the great
Bay of Geelwink.
The harbour is entered by a channel 3 miles in length, formed on one side
by the peninsula of Mamori, and on the other by the islands of Mana-Souari
and Masmapi, and two banks, which are awash. The harbour itself is not
more than half a mile deep, and 200 yards in breadth, with a regular depth
of 104 fathoms, sand and shells. Notwithstanding the confined extent of
this basin, ships of any class may calculate on a safe anchorage, and shel-
tered from the winds and swell from the offing. But as it is surrounded by
deep forests, and at the bottom of the harbour there are many mud-banks,
often dry, a long stay here would doubtless be unhealthy for Europeans,
especially in the rainy season.
All the environs of the harbour, properly so called, are occupied by forests
in a state of nature, standing on a coralline soil, which rises with a very
gentle slope.
The inhabitants of Doreï are distributed in four villages on the borders of
the sea; two are on the North side of the harbour, and the two others on the
Islands Mana-Souari and Masmapi. The total population of Doreï cannot
exceed 1,500 souls, all of whom recognise the sovereignty of the Sultan of
Tidore.
The result of the observations of M. Jacquinot has placed the observatory
at Doreï in lat 0° 51′ 43″ S., long. 133° 59′ 52″ E.
The following islands are but little known, and but vaguely placed on the
charts. The few particulars which are given are derived (unless otherwise
stated) from our "Oriental Navigator," 1809, pp. 634–641.
ST. DAVID ISLANDS, Pedan, Onata, or Freewill Islands.-This group,
about which there is some confusion in the old charts, was seen in the
Warwick, East Indiaman, in February, 1861. They are represented as two
distinct islands, but it is probable that one of them is intended for the
Asia Islands. They are very low, are four in number, and with an islet or
rock between the North and East islets. The smallest in extent seems to be
782
ISLANDS NORTH OF NEW GUINEA.
the highest, and all of them are well covered with cocoa-nut trees, like
most other coral atolls. It is about 14 miles long, and nearly circular, and
the surrounding reef projects about a mile from the North and South sides,
but not so far on the others. It is well inhabited. The centre is in about
lat. 0° 57′ N., long. 134° 21′ E.
CARTERET REEF was passed by Captain Carteret in the Swallow, in
1767. He passed between the reef and Evening Islet to the S.W. of it, and
places it in the doubtful position, 2° 54′ N., 134° 12′ E. It is possible that it
may be the same as the next.
HELEN REEF was discovered in the East India Company's ship Helen,
Captain Seton, in 1794. He says:-It is a very dangerous shoal lying
W.N.W. and E.S.E., about 6 miles; the East end appeared a dry sand, but
on the West part there were rocks a very little above water; no ground
with 100 fathoms of line 3 miles due South of a very conspicuous part of it.
I am inclined to think that the reef stretches a good way to the northward,
as I saw from the masthead the appearance of breakers running from the
West end to the north-eastward. From the centre of the reef, to which I
gave the name of Helen Shoal, Lord North Island bears N. 75° W., 40 miles.
The best account we have of it is furnished by Captain Pedersen, of the
Cordelia Berian, who came to it in Oct., 1858, to recover the cargo of tea
from the Lady Raglan, wrecked on its West side.
The reef is above 16 miles long in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and 8
miles wide at its broadest part, which is near its southern end. Its interior
is a basin of deep water, encircled by a narrow belt of dark heads of coral,
against which the ocean swell dashes with great fury. In sailing round the
reef no break was seen through its margin, or foul ground along it, except
at its south-eastern point, where white or shallow water extended half a
mile outside the breakers, and where there appeared to be a narrow opening
into the interior. A rock, with 2 or 3 fathoms over it, was discovered lying
West about a mile from the wreck of the Lady Raglan, and North about
three-quarters of a mile from the extreme western part of the reef.
As no anchorage was found along the reef, the water being ocean deep
close-to, the Cordelia Berian remained off it under sail from October 4th to
November 11th, her boats bringing tea from the Lady Raglan. During this
period the weather was generally unsettled, with heavy squalls from the
W.N.W., then calms, which often placed the vessel in a critical position, the
currents being strong and irregular, sometimes setting at the rate of 2 knots
to the eastward (or towards the reef *), and at other times as strong to the
*The Cordelia Berian lying-to on the West side of the reef, where the Lady Raglan was
wrecked.
MARIERE AND ANNA ISLANDS.
783
westward. The month of October was more favourable than November; in
the former the wind was steadier from the south-westward, and fewer calms;
in the latter, there were calms and baffling winds, and the squalls were
heavy and the current strong.
The tides ran strong over the reef, the flood to the eastward, the ebb to
the westward. The flood sometimes set with such force that the men could
not keep their footing in one foot of water. The boats were enabled at times
to get across the barrier at the S.S.E. part of the reef when the tide was
high, but great care had to be taken to avoid the sharp heads of coral, having
10 to 20 fathoms water close to them.
In light airs or in baffling winds a wide berth should be given to Helen
Reef, for the currents in its vicinity are variable and strong, and have occa-
sioned the loss of many vessels on it, and others have but narrowly escaped
being wrecked.
The N.N.E. extreme is in about 3° 0′ N., long. 131° 52′ E.; the S.S.W.
extreme in about lat. 2° 46′ N., long. 131° 42′ E.
As before stated, it may be identical with Carteret Reef.
MARIERE, or Warren Hastings Island, was first seen by the East India
Company's ship Carnarvon, Captain Hutchinson, September, 1861. It is
about 2 miles long from North to South, and a mile wide. Like other
atolls, it is low and well covered with cocoa-nut trees, especially in the
northern part, but the middle and southern parts are higher. It is in-
habited by people resembling Malays, who are very poor, and can afford
no refreshments.
Captain A. Mc Clellan passed it in July, 1855, and found a detached rock
off it, although it had been supposed to be clear all round. A reef stretches.
from both ends of Mariere Island over a mile, with a rock a good mile off,
its N.N.E. side showing in the hollow of the sea as a round black islet, about
the size of a whale. Horsburgh expressly states that there is no danger
near this island. He places this rock in lat. 4° 19′ 30″ N., and long.
132° 28′ 30″ E.*
ANNA, or Current Island, was seen by the Carnarvon, Warwick, and
Princess Angusta, the China fleet returning in 1761. It is a very small,
low island, not more than half a mile in diameter, covered with trees, and
surrounded by breakers, which run out from its South end for two miles.
Its position may be taken, approximatively as 4° 39' N., long. 132° 4' E. It
is very dangerous in the night, and is inhabited.
* Warwick Island, a whaler report, in lat. 4° 24′ N., long. 136° 26′ E., may be derived
from an old chart, and refers to Mariere.
784
ISLANDS NORTH OF NEW GUINEA.
SANSORAL, or St. Andrew Islands, have been placed 1° too far East
on the charts. Captain Maury says that they are in lat. 5° 20' N., long.
132° 20′ E.
They were discovered by Padilla, in 1710, are two in number, and said to
be connected and surrounded by a reef which is steep-to, and extends but a
short distance from either island. Kodo-kopuei, the southernmost and largest,
is from 1 to 2 miles S.S.W. from Sansoral, the northernmost of the two.
They are small, low, flat, and thickly wooded; and may be seen about 12
or 14 miles off. There are about 200 inhabitants on the islands, and these
occasionally visit the Palau in their canoes.-(Reynolds.)
TOBI, Lord North, or Neville Island, was seen by the ship Lord North, in
January, 1781, and was also seen in 1789 by the Raymond, and was called
Neville Island from a man on board. It is 1 mile long E.S.E. and
W.N.W., with a reef projecting from its East end, but is bold-to in other
directions. It is densely wooded, and has 200 inhabitants, who came off
in their canoes, but they are bold, and not to be trusted. Lat. 3° 8' N., long.
131° 8' E.
(785)
CHAPTER XIII.
ISLANDS BETWEEN LATS. 10° AND 20° N., INCLUDING THE
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
CLIPPERTON ISLAND was discovered, in 1705, by a companion of
Dampier's, Captain Clipperton, who separated from him on the coast of
South America, to go to the Indies, in which passage he fell in with this rock
or island. Its position, as given, was not very far from the truth, but its
existence was doubted until recently.
Captain Sir Edward Belcher is the first who made us acquainted with the
exact character of this rock. He made it May 8th, 1839, at the distance of
15 miles, at the dawn of day; and the sun's rays playing on its nearest face,
it had the appearance of a brig close hauled. "The name, Clipperton
Rock, certainly misled us, and had we made the point at night, with a fair
wind, would almost inevitably have severely damaged or destroyed both ves-
sels. I certainly should have steered to pass it to the northward, merely
assuming it to be a solitary rock."
Nothing in this name could lead a seaman to imagine a high rock, placed
on the southern edge of a coral lagoon island, 3 miles long North and South,
by the same East and West.
Its description should stand thus:-A very dangerous, low, lagoon island,
destitute of trees, with a high rock on its southern edge, which may be mis-
taken for a sail.
This rock can be seen 15 miles. In thick weather the low coral belt,
which appears like sand, will not be distinguished until close to it. The
breakers on the eastern side do not afford sufficient warning for a vessel to
turn or change course. On the northern part of the belt the land is a little
raised, and appears to be clothed with something like grass.
There are two entrances, which at high water may be safe; but at the
moment we passed, the surf was too heavy, and the reflux showed the rocks
bare. The high rock is situated in lat. 10° 17′ N., long. 109° 10′ W., the
North Pacific.
3 E
786
PASSION ISLAND OR ROCK.
dangers from it northerly extending 2 miles easterly, and the same north-
westerly. On the beach several large trees were observed, and an object,
which was thought to be part of a vessel, near the western opening.
In the centre of the lagoon, as viewed from the mast-head, there is one
hole of blue water, and a second belt is connected with rock, attaching it to
the East side of the island. This literally constitutes two islands formed by
its two openings; both are on the weather side of the island.
No living trees were seen, but the whole island was covered with gannet,
boobies, frigate pelican, and several kinds of tern, which had also been no-
ticed in great numbers during the previous week, at least 500 miles to the
eastward. From this an easterly current may be inferred, as these birds
generally keep in its stream or tail course.*
No bottom was obtained by the Sulphur with 100 fathoms of line, but the
Starling had soundings with less than 100 on the northern side.
Sharks, porpoises, and turtle, were observed together. The former an-
noyed us much by biting at our patent logs, for which one was taken
and made an example of. They were very large, and literally swarmed.
In all probability they were attracted by a shoal of file (balistes), and
other small fish, which had been feeding off our copper since quitting the
Island of Cocos.
PASSION ISLAND or Rock.-The existence of this has been the subject
of much doubt, arising from the very contradictory statements as to its posi-
tion. It is stated to have been discovered in the early part of the last cen-
tury, by Captain Dubocage, in La Découverte, of Havre, on a Good Friday,
and from this circumstance it takes its name. This account is alluded to by
Le Barbinaise, who made a voyage to the South Seas in 1714. The position
stated is lat. 4° N., long. 106° W., but on Espinosa's chart it is given as lat.
16° 54′ N., long. 109° W. This great incongruity, however, is in some
measure set at rest by the following, by Lieutenant Woolridge, R.N. com-
manding H.M.S. Spy:-
"On December 2nd, 1847, observed an island bearing W.N.W., which,
though (as laid down) would have been 60' distant, we could only believe to
be the Passion Rock. As we passed less than 30' to the West of it in July.
last, and did not see it, and now passed 60' to the East of it, it is possible it
may be laid down 30' too far to the West.
"Latitude and longitude, from bearings and supposed distance, 17° 11′ N.,
106° 21′ W. It appeared from aloft high, and peaked in several places."
* It does not follow, therefore, as a matter of course, as noticed by some writers, that
the appearance of birds denotes land to windward; they are more likely guided by the
tide.
(787)
REVILLA-GIGEDO ISLANDS.
This is a small group to the southward of the Californian peninsula, that
was discovered in one of the early Spanish voyages. Fernando de Grijalva,
in 1523, named the principal island Santo Tomas, now called Socorro. The
name of the group is derived from Captain Colnett, in 1793, who gave the
name of the Spanish Mexican Viceroy to them, in gratitude for the kindness.
he had received from him during his captivity.-(Colnett, p. 116).
It was intended by the Spaniards to form an establishment on them, but
their natural character prevented this.
SOCORRO or Santo Tomas is about 8 leagues in length N.W. and S.E.,
and about 3 leagues in its greatest breadth. It may be said to consist of one
mountain (about 2,000 feet high), which may be seen at the distance of 20
leagues, and falls in gradual descent at all points on the South side. It is
in a great measure covered with brushwood, intermixed with low prickly
pear trees (cacti), and occasionally shaded with other trees of a larger
growth. Some few spots of the soil are black and barren, as if fire had
lately issued near it; and the top of the high land at a distance has the
appearance of there having been formerly a volcano. The surface is of a
whitish colour, like that of the pumice stone, which was found on the shore.
Neither fire nor smoke were, however, seen to issue from the island.
The vegetables found by Colnett's people were considered as wholesome;
they were beans, and the molie tree, whose leaves make a pleasant and
aromatic decoction. The prickly pear, an excellent antiscorbutic, grew in
great abundance. Numerous land-birds, and plenty of sea-fowl, also afforded
food. Fish is very abundant, but difficult to take, on account of the nume-
rous sharks. Water is, however, not to be found, though there are many
indications that some must exist, but they have not been discovered.
Captain Colnett considered the safest anchorage, from June to December,
to be between the South and S.W. points (Cornwallis Bay), opposite to two
white coral beaches, which are the first two in succession from the South
point of the island toward the West. It is remarkable from the pinnacle
rocks, which lie close off the West point of the bay. This bay is preferable
in the bad season, as the wind seldom blows more than two points to the
southward of East. In the good season, however, that is, from the latter
end of December till the beginning of June, the S.E. (or Braithwaite Bay),
is to be preferred; the anchorage here is better and nearer to the cove, and
is the only good landing-place. It is readily known, being a stony beach
at the first inlet in the shore to the eastward of the South point. All
other parts of the coast on the South side of the island are iron-bound,
which makes it difficult, if not impossible, to land, except in very fine
weather.
3 E 2
788
REVILLA-GIGEDO ISLANDS.
Socorro has been correctly placed on the charts by Captain Sir Edward
Belcher. He found its latitude correct; but that it was 52 miles East of its
proper position by former observers.
"It is lofty, making in several peaks, the highest probably 2,000 ft. above
the sea.
The eastern coast is very dreary and forbidding.
"Braithwaite's Bay (which was supposed to be that so named previously)
has rocky landing, the shores of lava coulé, and nothing like a beach.
Neither wood nor water visible, although, from the constant clouds which
hang over the high peaks, there must be a supply in some other point.
Lieut. Wood examined the western bay, which is spacious. Goats were ob-
served, but no indications of wood or water visible, though, from the pre-
sence of animals, it is probable that they find water.
"It is difficult to penetrate into the interior, even for a few hundred feet,
owing to the abundance of the cactus opuntia (prickly pear), which make
those who attempt it suffer for their curiosity. One of the crew of the
Sulphur made himself ill from eating a large bean, which grew abundantly;
but it might have been from indulging too freely, because some were cooked
and eaten without injury." Two of Colnett's people were affected in the
same way.
The landing-place in Braithwaite Bay is in lat. 18° 43′ 14″ N., long. 110°
54' 15" W.
St. Benedicto Island is the same which was called Nublada (cloudy) by
Villalobos, in 1542. Colnett calls it San Berto. It lies to the N.N.E. of
Socorro, 30 miles distant. It is about 6 miles in length N.E. and S.W.,
and 2 or 3 in breadth, with a few rocks just appearing above water off
different parts of it. Its surface is uneven, and its appearance romantic, but
barren, with little or no vegetation. At the distance of 9 or 10 miles it
appears like two islands. On the West side is a small bay, but it was not
examined. Its North end is in lat. 19° 22' 40", long. 110° 44′ W., according
to Colnett's chart.
Roca Partida lies 48 miles E.N.E. of Socorro. It is a dangerous barren
rock, lying N.N.W. and S.S.E. by compass, 50 or 60 fathoms long, and 25
or 30 fathoms broad. Both ends are 15 or 20 fathoms in height. The
N.W. end is forked; the S.E. end is like a ragged haycock. The two bights
are separated by a ragged saddle, that rises 20 or 30 feet nearly perpendi-
cularly from the sea. There is a depth of 35 fathoms at a boat's length off
all round; at half a mile distance, 50 fathoms; and then no bottom with
100 fathoms. It shows itself on every bearing, at all distances, like a sail
under a jury mast. There is a great quantity of fish, but the sharks prevent
The only inhabitants of the rock are men-of-war hawks,
as at St. Benedicto. Lat. 19° 4′ 30″, long. (corrected) 112° 4′ 0″ W.
them being taken.
Santa Rosa or Clarion Island.-We have no early account of this island,
and its existence was doubted until it was seen in 1815, by Lieut. Ponafidin,
SANTA ROSA OR CLARION ISLAND.
789
of the Russian Company's ship Souvoroff, who calculated its position as lat.
18° 28′ N., long. 115° 6' W. Captain Fitzgerald, of the Alert, saw it in his
passage from Callao to San Blas, and placed it in lat. 18° 24', long. 11° 33'
West. Sir Edward Belcher places Sulphur Bay on its South side, in lat. 18°
20' 36", long. 114° 40′ 19". Captain Fitzgerald describes it as being high in
the West part (1,500 feet according to Sir E. Belcher), and about 6 miles
long in an East and West direction. When it bears to the N.E. it shows in
three summits, which give it the appearance of a group of isles. The South
side is clear and steep-to, and the sea beats strongly against it, except in one
part, towards the middle, where the shore is sandy, and on which the captain
landed with some difficulty. At less than a mile off this part the depth is
11 fathoms.
It has also been seen by an American (Captain Clark, of the ship Pearl),
who has modestly bestowed the name of Clarion on it. It is also called
Cloud Island on some charts, but this is evidently the name of Nublada Island
to the eastward. It is also probably the same as Best Island, and Freshwater
Island, placed near to Cloud Island.*
Sir E. Belcher speaks thus of it:-Clarion Island differs slightly in its
features from Socorro, excepting that a whitish coloured fresh-water lake
was found at the beach, and birds were more numerous, viz., the gannet,
frigate pelican, several varieties of boobies, of tern, ducks, and doves. The
plants were more luxuriant, the cactus particularly so, but not so uncourteous
as at Socorro-it did not entirely stop the way. No streams were noticed.
Fish were very numerous, and took the bait freely, but they broke the
hooks. Turtle were plentiful; two were captured.
Sir Edward Belcher was not fortunate enough to find wood or whole-
some water in any way to justify a vessel seeking for those necessaries at
these islands. Possibly distress might be relieved, but nothing beyond.
He sought for the several islands reported in the Socorro and Clarion groups,
and passed over the position of Best's Island, which, if it existed within 10
miles, might have been seen; he soon after sighted Clarion Island, not far
out of its position as given. Birds, principally gannet, together with broad
patches of weed, at times plentiful.†
ROCA CORAL, Roca Pardero, New Island, Misipi Island, New Baldayo Island,
* The positions assigned to most of these islands was also examined by Lieut Catesby
Ap R. Jones, U.S.N., and no indication of land discovered. Lieut. Jones was of opinion
that all of them were erroneous positions of Santa Rosa Island, which, from all these
positions was in sight.
+ COPPER ISLAND, a lonely spot, if it exists, requires verification, although it has been
several times reported. It has been placed, from whaler report, in lat. 20° 26' N., long.
130° 54'. It is also shown as Coopers Island, lat. 20° 6' N., long. i31° 54' W., and probably
as Capper's Island, in the same latitude and in similar East longitude.
790
JOHNSTON ISLANDS.
&c.—Several islands under the foregoing names have been announced as
existing between lat. 16° and 17° N., long. 133° and 136° W., but the re-
ports have never yet been confirmed, and their existence, whether as refer-
ring to a single island, or a cluster of five islands, as has been reported, or
a series of detached islands, is still doubtful.
The United States' Exploring Expedition passed through the reported
area, and Sir Edward Belcher, in the Starling and Blossom, Captain Trollope,
in H.M.S. Rattlesnake, and others, have sought for this cluster of doubtful
islands unsuccessfully; but numerous indications of land were met with,
medusæ, floating sticks, frequent showers, frigate birds, &c. Sir Edward
Belcher says:-"As these latter birds do not go far from land, I am
disposed to believe some one of these reports to be well founded, but the
position erroneously determined. So many assertions can hardly rest on
imagination."
JOHNSTON ISLANDS were discovered December 14, 1807, on board
H.M.S. Cornwallis, Captain Charles James Johnston. The discovery and
place of the group were announced by Lieutenant William Henry Smyth,
at that time an officer on board the Cornwallis, hence the group is sometimes
called by the name of the frigate. The original observations place them
in lat. 16° 53′ 20″ N., long. 169° 31' 30" W. They are described by Wilkes,
1840, as a lagoon surrounded by an extensive reef, extending N.E. and
S.W. 10 miles, and 5 miles broad. On the N.W. side are two low islets;
the westernmost in lat. 16° 48′ North, long. 169° 45′ 36″ West, is covered
with bushes, but no trees; the other is only a sand-bank. This reef
lies deep.
They were examined in 1859 by Lieutenant J. M. Brooke, of the U.S.
schooner Fenimore Cooper. He landed on them, and obtained excellent
equal altitudes, and his observations, which should be preferred, place the
flagstaff on the West islet in lat. 16° 44′ 48″ N., long. 169° 39′ 35″ W. Vari-
ation, in 1859, 71° E. Lieutenant Brooke says:—It is a lagoon island, the
reef being in the shape of a quadrilateral, 3½ miles in a N. by E. § E. and
S. by W. W. direction, and 3 miles W.N.W. N. and E.S.E.S. On
it are two islets, the smaller being N. 55° E. (true) from the larger, and dis-
tant 1 mile. The larger islet is about half a mile long E.N.E. and W.S.W.,
and here (on the eastern side) are the huts and wharf of the Pacific Guano
Company of San Francisco, who claim possession of it; a flagstaff marks its
position from the distance. The smaller islet, a mere sand-bank, is less
than a quarter of a mile in diameter. Breakers extend to the North, nearly
1½ miles; to the West the reef approaches the larger islet within a mile. A
bank surrounds the reef, extending in a S.E. direction 5 or 6 miles, with 10
to 15 and 20 fathoms on it.
The best anchorage is three quarters of a mile S.S.E. from the huts under
SMYTH ISLANDS.
791
the flagstaff on the larger island; in running for it the flagstaff should be
brought to bear N. by W. W., though there is nothing to prevent its being
brought on any bearing between North and N.W.
The sea all round the islets is alive with fish of a superior quality; and
birds are extremely numerous.
*
SMYTH ISLANDS (or Gaspar Rico), a small group, are the subject of
some doubt as to their original discovery. On the early Spanish charts, an
island, Gaspar Rico, is placed between lat 15° and 16° N., and long. 170° E.
In 1625, the Dutch fleet, called the Nassau fleet, passed near to a low island,
which they believed to be Gaspar Rico. In 1796, Don F. Quintano, in the
Spanish ship Maria, discovered a group of five small islands, connected by
rocky banks, which he believed to be San Bartolomeo, discovered by Salazar,
in 1536.
Whether these several discoveries refer to the same or different spots is not
as yet determined; but on Dec. 22, 1807, H.M.S. Cornwallis passed to the
northward of a group of islets and rocks extending 17 miles from N.N.W.
to S.S.E., the centre of which was in lat. 14° 30′ 30″ N., long. 168° 42′ 15″ E.,
from the observations of Lieut. William Henry Smyth, a name afterwards
deservedly celebrated as the surveyor of the Mediterranean, &c. The largest
of the islands received the name of Sybilla; the southernmost Petrel; the
others Fruitful, Danger, and Rabbit Islands. The northernmost part of the
rocky reef was named the Rocks of Scylla.
Captain Kotzebue saw these islands March 17, 1817, and sailed along
*The following are doubtful announcements which have been made of discoveries in this
vicinity :-
Wilson Island, lat. 19° 15′ N., long. 166° 40′ W.
Haystrous Island, lat. 19° 6' N., long. 163° 33′ W., and an island a degree further West.
Malloon's or Malcone's Island, lat. 19° 24' N., long. 165° 18′ W.
An Island, lat. 16° 30′ N., long. 163° 50′ W.
A shoal, from whaler's report, in lat. 18° 26' N., long. 173° 24′ W., and another shoal on
the same parallel, and in long. 170° 30'.
Jane Island, lat. 16° 10' N., long. 173° 15' W., does not exist.
The ships of the United States' Exploring Expedition passed over and near to the posi-
tions of many of these islands and shoals in clear weather, and for many hundred miles on
their parallel, without seeing anything.
The following are also unknown :—
A shoal, from whaler's report, 13° 30′ N., 170° 30′ W., and island 13° 4' N. 168° 20′ W.;
another island, in 13° 0′ N., 165° 40′ W.; an island in 1110 N., 163° 55 W., was not seen by
the Josephine, Capt. Stone.
Gaspar Island, 15° 0′ N., 179° 20' E., was passed over by the U.S. Exploring Expedition.
The same with San Pedro Island, in 11° 17' N., 179° 0′ W.
792
WAKES ISLAND.
their West side. His description entirely accords with that given by Lieut.
Smyth and Captain Quintano. His determination of their position is, for
the centre, lat. 14° 42′ N., long. 169° 3' 30"; but he concedes the difference,
21', between his own calculation and that of Lieutenant Smyth, to the latter
authority. They were also seen by the American brig Bolivar, Feb. 9th,
1833, and then named Farnham Island.
Lieut. Brooke, of the U.S. schooner Fenimore Cooper, examined the western
side in 1859; heavy weather prevented a thorough survey of the reef. The
side consists of a coral wall, with some clumps of rock scattered here and
there. At the northern extremity there are some clumps of rocks partly
above water and partly awash, and to the southward a couple of sand-banks
a few feet above the water, apparently separated from the northern rocks
by a channel, the whole encircled by breakers which do not run out very
far, and have a boat entrance into the lagoon. The group extends about 9
miles N.N.W. and S.S.E.; the eastern extent was not ascertained. The
reef to the westward is very low and very bold,-nearly steep-to; at the
distance of a mile from the breakers, bottom was just reached at 1,000
fathoms. There appear to be some detached breakers about a mile north-
westward of the N.W. extremity. Lieut. Brooke made the position of the
main clump of rocks at the N.W. extremity in lat. 14° 41′ N., long. 168°
561 E.
WAKES ISLAND was discovered by the Prince William Henry in 1796,
and its position, &c., fixed by the U.S. Exploring Expedition in 1840. It
was seen by Captain Ed. Gardner in the whale ship Bellona in 1823. He
describes it as being 20 to 25 miles long, with a reef extending 2 miles from
the East end, with detached rocks to the West. It was well covered with
trees. Captain Sproule saw it in 1858 in the bark Maria.
This danger is described by Lieut. Wakes as a low island of triangular
form, 8 feet above the surface of the sea, covered by shrubs, with a small
reef around it. It has a large lagoon in the centre, filled with a variety of
fish, among which are some fine mullet. No fresh water, no palm nor cocoa-
nut trees. From appearances, the island is at times submerged, or the sea
makes a breach over it. Low water at 1h on the moon's last quarter. The
reef around is very small. Lat. 19° 10′ 54″ N., long. 166° 31′ 30″.
The description of Captain Sproule agrees well with this; so that there is
no doubt his island is identical with that surveyed by Lieutenant Wilkes.
Captain Sproule passed this locality repeatedly above and below the parallel
of Wake Island, and gives evidence that all those islands and reefs marked
on the charts, under the names of Wake, Halcyon, and Helsion Islands, are
one and the same. Captain Brown, of the missionary ship Morning Star,
also searched for Halcyon island without finding it.
It is thus very probable that Halcyon Island, said by Kotzebue to have
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
793
been discovered by an American captain, is the same as Wakes Island,
because Captain Wilkes passed by its assigned position without seeing it.
Krusenstern calls Wakes Island by the name of Halcyon, on this suppo-
sition.*
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
The archipelago of the Marianas or Ladrones is composed of a chain of
volcanic islands, which extend in a North and South direction for a space of
140 leagues. Magalhaens, the first circumnavigator, discovered them on
March 6th, 1521, but he only saw Tinian, Saypan, and Aguigan. His com-
panions in the voyage named them the "Islands of the latteen sails" (Islas
de las velas latinas), on account of the triangular form of the sails carried by
their prahus. The Spaniards named them also Ladrones, from the great
propensity to thieving evinced by the natives, although Father Gobien, who
wrote a history of the archipelago, states that they hold this vice in detesta-
tion. Antonio Galvaom mentions them under the names of Los Jardines and
Los Frazeras, or Pleasant Islands.
It was in 1668 that they received the name of MARIANAS, in honour of the
widow of the King of Spain, Philip IV., Maria Anna of Austria. This
name has been continued to the present day, and has nearly absorbed all
others given previously. In 1564 or 1565, Andreas Miguel Lopez Legaspi
came hither, and proclaimed them to be the possession of the crown of Spain,
but he stayed here but a very short time.
The advantage which these islands afforded to the Spaniards, by their situa-
tion on the grand track from Acapulco to Manila, and the facility in pro-
curing fresh provisions and water here, soon induced them to take actual
possession of them. Under the pretext of converting the natives to the
Christian religion, they founded, in 1668, in the Island of Guahan, a mission
under the direction of Padre de Sanvitores, which soon extended its influence
over the other inhabited islands. The mutual good understanding, however,
* An island in 19° 31′ N. and 166° 35′ E., as announced in the Alta California, another
island from whaler report on the same parallel, being 2° further East, and also a bank in 20°
0′ N., 167° 40′ E., must refer to Wake Island.
Besides these the following doubtful islands may be enumerated:—
San Bartolomeo Island; Manuel Rodriguez Reef.—An island was discovered, in 1536, by
Torito Alonzo de Salazar, called S. Bartolomeo, which is placed on Admiral Espinosa's
chart in lat. 15° 10′ N., long 163° 43′ E., without stating upon what authority. It was not
found on a search of 100 leagues on the parallel assigned to it by Capt. Merlet of the
French marine, in November, 1851. In the memoir of Admiral Espinosa, the Manuel
Rodriguez Reef is placed in lat. 11° 0′ N., long. 141° 17′ W.; but these indications are so
vague that no dependence can be placed on their accuracy. It is sufficient here to mention
them.
794
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
did not last long between the missionaries and the natives, who after some
months had elapsed began to revolt against them. They attacked the fort,
and killed several of the Spaniards, but European discipline and fire-arms
prevailed, and they were obliged to yield. The war of extermination and
the emigration to other islands so destroyed the population, that when
Dampier came hither in 1686, that is, eighteen years after the arrival of
Padre de Sanvitores, there were not more than 100 natives on the island.
Dampier says that the number had been 400, but the Spanish authors mag-
nify them into 40,000 and upwards, a great exaggeration. It was not until
1695 that all resistance was quelled, which proves that up to this date the
natives had not abandoned the hope of recovering their independence; but
an epidemic finished the work of destruction, and when Anson visited the
island of Tinian, in 1742, he found it entirely deserted. This island, which
once had a population of 30,000 men, was now only inhabited by wild hogs
and cattle.
The reports of Sanvitores, also, confirm the estimates of the population.
He says, among other things, that during the first year of his labours he
baptized 13,000 people, and converted 20,000; but this must be overrated.
The population of Guahan, according to Malespina, amounted to 4,000
people, but he does not say how many of these were of the primitive race.
According to Kotzebue, there were but a single couple in 1817, at the death
of whom the indigenes would become extinct. This is a sad but true picture
of the mode in which the Spaniards pacified the natives. The last-named
author also tells us that the Americans, who trade in peltry between the
N.W. coast of America and China, had formed an establishment on the
islands of Saypan and Grigan. For this purpose they had brought some
families of Sandwich islanders to cultivate the land and raise live stock; but
as soon as the Spaniards heard of this, they sent thither a detachment of
soldiery to the infant colony, who destroyed the plantations, and carried
with them the Sandwich islanders as prisoners. M. Chamisso, the naturalist
in Kotzebue's expedition, has given a detailed account of this enterprise,
undertaken in 1810, by Captain Brown, of the American ship Derby.
The most complete nautical account and chart of the archipelago was that
drawn up by M. de Freycinet, who surveyed a portion of the southern part
of the group in the French corvettes L' Uranie and La Physicienne, in 1819.*
* The accounts of the progress of discovery in this group will be found in Herrera,
decad. 3, 1. 7, et seq.; Argensola, Conquista de las Molucas, lib. i.; Gonzales de Oviedo,
Hist. de las Indias; Gomara, Hist. Gen. de las Indias; Ultimo Viage al Estrecho de Ma-
galhaens, p. 205, &c.; Anson's Voyage Round the World, by Richard Walter, book iii.,
chap. 2; Byron's Voyage, in Hawkesworth's Collection, vol. i. p. 116, et seq.; Wallis's
Voyage, ibid. vol. i. p. 279, et seq. ; Portlock's Voyage, p. 317; Gilbert's Voyage of the Char-
lotle, 1788, pp. 66-7; Voyage of Governor Phillip to Botany Bay, 1789, p. 255 Observa-
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
795
The most recent account of this remote (and useless) Spanish colony, is
that given by Commander Don Eugenio Sanchez y Zayas, of the visit of the
Spanish corvette Narvaez, in Dec. 1864 and Jan. 1865. This was published
in the Anudrio de la Direccion Hidrografia, a translation of which was pub-
lished by the French Depôt de la Marine in 1865-6. To this account we are
indebted for many of the subsequent particulars, which are incorporated
with the remarks by Freycinet.
There has been much confusion in the names of the northern islets, and
this has been increased by the addition to the chart of an island which does
not exist. These discrepancies have been rectified by Commander Sanchez
y Zayas, as hereafter explained.
From the statistics gathered by Comm. Sanchez y Zayas there were 4,060
inhabitants in 1800, which number increased to 5,406 in 1818; to 8,609 in
1849, and to 9,500 in 1856. But in the last-named year the small-pox broke
out in the archipelago, and in the course of that year carried off half the
people, reducing the numbers to 4,556 souls.
In 1865 the population was reckoned as 5,610, of which 4,824 were on
Guajan, 335 on Rota, 18 on Tinian, and 435 on Saypan; the other islands
being uninhabited.
The indigenous race called Chamorros very much resemble the Tagals and
Visayos of the Philippines, but are perhaps more indolent,-a fault com-
pensated for by good qualities, of which sobriety and unselfishness may
claim notice. The black residents on Saypan are derived from the Carolines,
and are naturally active and industrious.
The primitive inhabitants of the archipelago have left some memorials of
their talent behind them, like those of the monuments on Easter Island, at
the opposite extreme of the Pacific Islands. In Tinian these structures are
remarkable. They are described in Lord Anson's Voyage, where a view is
given of one, and are mentioned by other and later visitors. Lieutenant
Mortimer says they consisted, in the state he saw them, of two ranges of
columns, either of stone or composition, and of a pyramidal form, 5 feet 4
inches broad at the base, and 14 feet high, having large semi-globes, 5 feet
10 inches in diameter, placed on the tops, with their flat surfaces upwards.
These singular structures, which are not all exactly alike, are supposed by
Freycinet to be the supports of a wooden ceiling to which the roofs of the
tions, &c., on a Voyage to Teneriffe, Tinian, &c., in the brig Mercury, commanded by C. H.
Cox, by Lieut. George Mortimer, 1791, p. 64, et seq.; Voyage de L'Astrolabe et Zelee, tome
v. pp. 202—336: Freycinet's Voyage, Paris, 1826; Navigation et Hydrog., chap. xi. pp.
190-221; and the Voyage of the Spanish corvette Narvaez, by her commander D. E.
Sanchez y Zayas, Anuario de la Direccion de Hidrografia, iii. 1865, and a translation of
the same by Lieutenant Mac-Dermott of the French Navy, in the Annales Hydrogra-
phiques, 1866-7.
796
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
principal houses were affixed. But this opinion is not participated in by
other authors, and a further examination points to the inference that they
are sepulchral monuments of the former inhabitants. There are numerous
similar remains on the other islands, especially at Asan, near Agaña in
Guahan; but here they are smaller and constructed of stone.
CLIMATE.-It rains very heavily at the Marianas, and it may be affirmed
that there are no dry and rainy seasons-it rains in torrents every day.
The enormous evaporation of the Pacific is condensed in passing over the
islands, so that with winds from every quarter rain is abundant at all hours
of the day or night. The Narvaez was here in December and January, the
period of the so-called dry season, but rain was abundant every day, and
the natives were surprised at the weather being considered as wet.
The temperature is mild, and much cooler than at the Philippines, but the
inhabitants declared that the heat in August and September was almost
suffocating. This must arise from the interruption of the N.E. trade wind,
which blows throughout the year with the exception of these two months,
during which the effects of the S.W. monsoon apparently reaches to the
Marianas. At this time there is generally a dead calm, for the monsoon
itself has not sufficient force to reach the archipelago. It is therefore the
season of intense heat, rain, and storms, and frequently of terrible hur-
ricanes.
Admiral Krusenstern makes the following observations on this subject :-
The Marianas lie in the region of the North tropic, and consequently in
that of the N.E. trade-winds. But this is not the prevalent wind. The
N.E. and S.W. monsoons, which are met with in the China Sea, on the coasts
of China, and near the Philippine Islands, extend as far as the Marianas,
and sometimes even beyond them; so that the limits between the monsoons
and the trade winds must be found somewhere near this archipelago, as is
explained in a subsequent page, in treating of the winds and currents.
The currents generally following the direction of the winds, it is probable
that it is also the case near the Marianas. But Captain Golownin met with
a rapid current bearing to the N.E., although the wind blew from that
quarter; and a Spanish officer affirms that a similar current generally flows
in this part; but this phenomenon may proceed from some local cause, and
is but an exception, and does not affect the general rule.
Between the islands of Tinian and Aguijan a violent current was remarked
in the Centurion, the direction of which was alternately S.S.E. and N.N.W.
This would prove the existence of regular tides. The flood, which bore to
the N.N.W., was more rapid than the ebb, and lasted longer. Pasco-Thomas
also remarked, that during the syzygies the flood was 2 feet less than at the
quadratures, which is contrary to what usually occurs. The greatest rise
of water was 8 feet; with S.W. winds the flood rose higher than with other
winds.
GUAM.
797
Observations on the Winds, by M. de Freycinet.-We remarked that in April
and May the wind at the Island of Guahan almost always blew freshly from
E.N.E. to E.S.E. It sprung up at break of day, became very fresh towards
8 or 10 o'clock, a.m., and was calm during the night. The sky was most
generally clear; sometimes it was overcast with thick clouds, which, driven
with great rapidity, gave place to showers and strong gusts.
When the horizon was overcast to the S.W., the N.W., and West, with
a black mass, not high, the sea began to break on the inner banks at the
Luis Harbour. It also occurred that, notwithstanding the continuance of
the easterly winds, the S.W. and westerly swell render the narrow passages
between these reefs impracticable. During our stay, storms, accompanied
by rain, were very frequent, but of short duration. Thunder was never
heard.
The monsoons are felt at the Marianas; that from the West takes place
from the middle of June to the middle of October. The wind, however, does
not blow violently but for three months of the year. Hurricanes are rare,
but are not unknown; nor are earthquakes, which, on the contrary, are
tolerably frequent. Of the first-mentioned scourges, there had not been one
for seven years prior to our visit.
According to Don Luis de Torres, the months of July to November are
the season of bad weather, storms, thunder, and rain; and in December,
January, and February, the weather is variable; March, April, May, and
June, are the finest; the breeze then comes from East and N.E. The
months when the winds blow strongest are August, September, October, and
November; they blow at these periods from N.W. to S.W. by W., some-
times from South and S.E., but in general rather between North and West
than from North itself.
GUAM,* Guajan, or Guahan, is the southernmost and principal of the
Marianas, inasmuch as it is the seat of government, and is also the largest
of them. Besides this, it is the only one inhabited to any extent. It is 27
miles in length, in a N.E. & N. and S.W. S. direction, and of irregular
breadth, 10 miles where widest, and in some parts not more than 3 miles
broad. It is bordered throughout the greater part of its circuit with a chain
of reefs, which are uncovered at times. Excellent old Dampier thus de-
scribes the island:-" At a distance it appears flat and uneven, but coming
near it, you will find it stands shelving, and the East side, which is much
the highest, is fenced with steep rocks, that oppose the violence of the sea,
which continually rages against it, being driven by the constant trade-wind,
* Guam is spelt in the Atlas Historique of Freycinet's Voyage, Gwam, the w being
equivalent to the diphthong ou. Most of the words usually spelt with this, the Italian u or
English oo, are thus written in the excellent map in question.
798
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
and on that side there is no anchoring. The West side is pretty low, and
full of small sandy bays, divided with as many rocky points. The soil of the
island is reddish, dry, and indifferently fruitful. The fruits are chiefly rice,
pine-apples, water-melons, musk-melons, oranges and limes, cocoa-nuts, and
a sort of fruit called by us bread-fruit.
"The cocoa-nut trees grow by the sea on the western side in great groves,
3 or 4 miles in length and 1 or 2 miles broad."
It was surveyed by M. Duperrey, under the orders of Captain Freycinet,
in 1819. He went round it in a boat; and in the Atlas attached to the
Voyage of L' Uranie are some excellent and detailed plans.
Point Ajayan is the S.E. extremity of Guam, in lat. 13° 14′ N., long.
144° 44' E. To the West of it is Ajayan (Ahayan) Bay, singularly obstructed
by reefs, and thus cannot be used. The South end of Guam is an uninter-
rupted sandy beach fronted by reefs, having two or three small islands on
it. Cocos Island, formerly called Danéono, and near to it Bali Island, extend
off the S.W. point of Guam. It is a mile long, low and barren, with some
trees, among which is a single cocoa-nut tree, which gives its name. It is
surrounded by reefs, which, extending to the northward, form between it and
the actual S.W. point of Guam the small harbour of Merizo, fit only for
small vessels.
The people at this part of Guam are much afflicted with leprosy, and the
towns are full of lepers. The town of Merizo is about 1 mile southward of
Umata Bay, and contains only 22 houses, and 146 lazy and dirty inha-
bitants. The church was built in 1779, but was burnt in 1858. It was
thatched again in 1861. The only house that is habitable is that of the
padre. The whole of this part of Guam should be cautiously approached.
The Santa Rosa Shoal lies to the southward of Guam. Admiral Krusen-
stern mentions it with some doubt as to its existence, but of this there is no
question. Dampier saw it in 1686, on approaching the island. "They
sailed over a rocky shoal, on which there was but 4 fathoms water, and
abundance of fish swimming about the rocks." The Spanish galleon, too,
arrived from Acapulco while he lay at Guam; but avoiding Dampier's ships,
sailed to the southward, and struck on this shoal, and was in great danger
of being lost there, for she struck off her rudder, and could not get clear
till after three days' hard labour. It must be at a considerable distance off,
for after some hours' sail they sighted Guam, 8 leagues distant. On Can-
tova's chart it is made 20 leagues in extent, E.N.E. and W.S.W., and about
half as broad. On Mr. Dalrymple's chart, a bank, discovered in 1740 by
Galvez, is made to be 10 miles to the S.W. of Guam, in lat. 13°; but this
has not since been found; an American vessel, among others, passed over
the site in 1804, without finding bottom. This may be the same as that
mentioned by Dampier, but is probably not of the extent delineated by
Cantova. Its position may be about lat. 12° 30′ N., long. 144° 15′ E.
UMATA BAY.
799
Umata Bay is 4 miles North of Cocos Island at the S.W. end of Guam.
It is about 2,000 feet deep in an E.N.E. direction; its two extreme points
are 1,700 feet apart. The South coast is mountainous from Cape Chalan
Aniti to the bottom of the bay, where the River Umata or Saloupa enters.
It is the usual watering-place. The North coast is low, and the town stands
here. The church, built at the foot of the mountain, fronts the eastern part
of the bay; a small rivulet, the Sabo River, flows between the church and
the governor's house. Behind the town the hills rise in an amphitheatre,
and are neither high nor remarkable. On the South side of the bay, on the
contrary, the Inago Mount, opposite the governor's house, is remarkable; and
further West is another of 120 or 130 feet high, on the summit of which is
the fort of N. S. de la Soledad. Between these two hills a rivulet of excel-
lent water flows, called the Chioreto.
Point Tougouéne really forms the South extremity of Umata Bay. It is low,
pointed, and guarded by a chain of reefs, which approaches Cape Chalan
Aniti within a cable's length. To the North of the bay is an isolated and
picturesque rock, on which Fort Sant. Angel is built. It is approached by
steps cut in the rock. About 100 fathoms from it, to the North, is another,
Fort San José. A ruined battery at the bottom of the bay opposite the
church is called N. S. del Carmen. Forts San José and N. S. de la Soledad
are plainly discernible by their whiteness. Umata Bay is perfectly shel-
tered from North and South round by East; but in the season of westerly
winds, or from June to September, it is imprudent, or perhaps impossible, to
remain here, on account of the heavy sea sent in.
The anchorage is with Fort Sant. Angel bearing N.N.E. E. and Fort
N. S. de Soledad S. by E. E. In the mouth of the bay is 7 fathoms. Good
water may be got from the Chioreto rivulet.
Umata was destroyed by an earthquake on Feb. 25th, 1849, as shown by
stone inscriptions on the ruins of the governor's house and the church; and
when the Narvaez came here in 1864-5 it was found to be a wretched place,
with about a dozen Indian huts. Although the fortifications still looked
imposing on paper, they have not a single gun.
The coast trends to N.W. & N. 3 miles from Umata Bay to Point Facpi,
in 13° 19′ 50″ N., long. 144° 37′ E., forming several sinuosities in the space,
the deepest of which is Cetti Bay, as large as that of Umata. Point Facpi is
remarkable for being pointed, projecting, and terminating in an isolated
rock, joined to the shore by breakers, uncovered at low water. Thence to
Point Oroti, the West point of the peninsula of the same name, the coast
presents a bay of 6 miles opening and 2 miles deep, in which are several
coves and islets. The town of Agat is at the bottom of this bay. Landing
is impracticable on the coast here, but the land appears to be very fertile
and pleasant.
Agat is now one of the most important places next to Agaña. It con-
800
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
tains 36 native houses, a poor church, and a stone house for the padre. To
the S.W. of Agat, 2 miles distant is Aloupan or Alutung Island, at the West
extremity of a reef stretching two-thirds of a mile off Point Baugne. From
Agat to Oroté Point the distance is 3 miles to N.W. The S.W. face of the
Oroté peninsula is formed by a cliff, apparently steep-to.
Port San Luis D'Apra.-From Point Oroté to the North, and near to
which point is a small island, the coast trends first E. by S., then S.E. by S.
to the village of Apra; thence it turns to the E. and N., forming a large
indentation nearly in the shape of a V, the opening of which is partially
covered by a long and narrow island, a mass of coral, Cabras or Apapa Island,
and numerous reefs. The bay is very extensive and safe, but has a great
many banks, rocks, and islets. The North side is still further contracted by
the continuation of Apra Island in the form of a line of reefs, the Luminan
Reefs, and the Calalan Reefs, which come within the third of a mile of Ọroté
Island, leaving a very deep channel, the usual entrance. The whole of the
northern peninsula is madreporic, and cannot be traversed, on account of
the prodigious number of rocks and precipices which cover it. At the
isthmus connecting it is the village of Apra, with a rude landing-place. In
the centre of the basin is a rock level with the water, on which the Fort of
Sta. Cruz is built. It is in lat. 13° 25′ 45.3″ N., long. 144° 39′ 45″ E. The
anchorage usually occupied by ships is to the North of this, and is a basin
surrounded by coral patches of 2 or 3 ft. beneath the surface. The channels
leading to it are frequently narrow, the last before entering the basin not
more than 120 yards wide. The banks are very steep-to, and may be ap-
proached almost to touching. The depth in the anchoring ground is from
4 to 14 fathoms muddy bottom.
The distance between Apapa Island and Cape Oroté is 21 miles in a
W.S.W. direction; but a coral bank, which extends off Apapa Island
towards the West, contracts the passage to one-half the width, which,
besides this, is made still more difficult by a shoal lying precisely in the
middle of the passage. A vessel, richly freighted from Acapulco, had struck
on it a short time before the arrival of Captain Kotzebue. But as there is
a good passage on either side of this shoal, half a mile in breadth, this
entrance would be scarcely dangerous, if care be taken to mark its two ex-
tremities with buoys or flags. The depth in the passage to the N.E. of the
bank not being more than 5 fathoms, coral bottom, Captain Kotzebue ad-
vises ships to pass by the channel S. W. of the bank, and to keep as close as
possible on the Oroté side, where the depth of water is sufficient for the
largest ships. After passing beyond the bank a basin is entered, where
anchorage may be taken if circumstances demand it, but as the water in it
s of a very great depth, and the bottom is bad, it would be better, if the
wind and tides allow, to keep on the course to the inner part of the harbour,
where you may anchor at the distance of a quarter of a mile off the small
AGAÑA.
801
island of Santa Cruz in 15 fathoms. At the period of Kotzebue's visit, in
1817, there was a battery of three six-pounders on this island.
From the entrance of the port to the Island of Santa Cruz the distance is
2 miles; it would perhaps be dangerous to attempt to beat in or out against
a contrary wind, as Kotzebue did; it would be more prudent to wait for the
West wind, which springs up every morning at daybreak, and to tow
through the narrowest part of the passage. A small river falls into the
harbour at of a mile from Santa Cruz Island, and this is the water-
ing place; but the boats ought to be sent at high water, because at other
times it would be difficult to reach the mouth of the river. The casks are
filled at low water, and you wait for high water to get off again.
3
The shores of the Bay of Apra are now depopulated, and the villages of
Apra at the head of the bay, of Ajayan in the South part of the island,
Tarafofo on the East coast, and Ilic near to it, disappeared during the epi-
demic of 1859. There was only one medico in the whole archipelago, and
the small-pox ran its course, and in many cases left not a single survivor.
Where Apra stood there is not a hut left to show where it was.
Agat, before mentioned, is at present the place next in importance to
Agaña; it contains 36 native houses and a poor church. The village stands
at the commencement of the Oroté peninsula, at the head of an open bay 6
miles wide, between Oroté and Facpi Points. There are two or three rocky
islets on the reef in front of the place, so that landing is difficult and water-
ing very inconvenient. Soumaye, on the West side of the beach at Apra
Harbour, is the place chiefly resorted to by the vessels lying here. It has
29 decent houses, and the people are more obliging here than elsewhere. It
is due West of the Fort Sta. Cruz.
Leaving San Luis, the coast runs to the E.N.E., and then North, to Point
Acahi-Fanahi, a perpendicular rock, near to which lies the small island of
Gapan. The reefs from Apra Island reach to the latter. A mile and a half
from Point Acahi-Fanahi is Point Adeloup, better known to the inhabitants
as Punta del Diablo, on account of the extreme rapidity of the currents, which
make it very difficult to be doubled. A sandy beach commences imme-
diately after Point del Diablo, which trends to the East and North, forming
the Bay of Agana, in the middle of which is the small town of Agaña, the
capital of the archipelago. Aloupan or Alutung Island forms the N.E. ex-
tremity of this bay; it nearly touches Point Apurguan or Apuequan, and
makes apparently a secure anchorage, but it is too shallow except for small
boats.
AGANA contains the principal part of the inhabitants of the Marianas.
It bears the lofty title of the City of S. Ignacio de Agana, but is a small town
of 3,500 inhabitants. The greater part of the houses are but poor Indian
cabins, thatched with cocoa-nut leaves, but there are a few stone houses for
the better classes. The chief buildings are the governor's house, the artil-
North Pacific.
3 F
802
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
lery magazine, the church, and the college. The last was founded in 1673,
the first establishment in the archipelago. The streets are wide, clean, and
regular. A small but clear stream traverses the city, and is crossed by two
stone bridges, and the appearance of the place, with its rich vegetation, is
pleasant. But the population is lifeless and apathetic. A large portion of
the half-breed Indians are copper-coloured, with extremely light hair,-a
feature which has arisen from the intercourse of the American and English
whalers. Prior to the opening of the Japanese ports they frequently came
here. Their visits are now rare.
The town is built on the sea-shore, but in a most inconvenient position.
There is not even anchorage before it, for the coral bottom renders a stay
impossible, and to be off and on is attended with much hazard. This is the
only mode of calling here, unless, which is better, the vessel proceeds to San
Luis de Apra.* There is a good road between the two places, the only one
on the island, but the distance, a league, is too far to walk in this climate.
The coast from Apuequan Point to Point Tumun, is of steep rocks, and
all the detached points hence to the northward of the island are absolutely
alike. Two miles and a half to the N.E. of Point de los Amantes is Tumun
Bay. It appears to be filled with reefs, but there are several passages
through it, where boats can reach the shore, and land without difficulty.
Towards the East extremity of the bay, near its middle, and to the South of
the village of Gnaton, a cross has been erected to the memory of Padre San-
vitores, the martyr of the Marianas, who was killed on this point by a native
chief, while he was baptizing a child.
From Point de los Amantes to Point Nigo the coast trends N.N.E.; it is
barren and uninhabited. Above this latter point is the exposed anchorage
of Falcone.
Point Ritidian is the N.W. point of Guam; it is in lat. 12° 38′ 54″, long.
144° 51′ 58″ E. A short distance inland the perpendicular hills form,
scarcely without interruption, the circuit of the island on the East side.
The coral reefs trend to the S.E. to Point Tagua, forming the shore. To the
East of this the land trends East a mile to Point Patay, the N.E. point of
the island.
The eastern coast of the island, as far as Tarafofo Harbour, offers no
shelter to the navigator. It
therefore ought to be avoided during the
eastern monsoon. The only openings are Pago Harbour, in lat. 24° 30', ac-
cessible only for boats, and Ilic Bay, 2 miles to the southward, and equally
unimportant.
*An instance of the dangerous nature of Agana Bay was afforded by the wreck of the
British ship Invincible, Jan. 5, 1856. She came in without a pilot, and insisted on leaving
next day. With some assistance she got out, but was immediately dashed to pieces on the
rocks to West of the entrance; the crew were saved with difficulty.
ROTA ISLAND.
803
Port Tarafofo is formed of two small, deep bays, the first of which, Tara-
fofo, is open to the East, in which direction it is half a mile long, and 300
yards wide. The other is smaller, and is called Paicpouc Cove. The Tarafofo
River, the most considerable in Guam, enters the head of the bay. Madre-
poric hills, very steep, descend on both sides of the harbour to the water.
That of Mahilouc, on the North side, is celebrated in the history of the
country. Tarafofo is the only harbour, next to San Luis, which will receive
vessels at all seasons of the year. There are no rocks in it, nor is there any
danger. A point at the head of the bay, on the South end of the sandy
beach, is in lat. 13° 18′ 9″ N., long. 144° 46′ 14″.
From Tarafofo to Ulomnia or Hounlodgna Bay the land is low, with sandy
beaches and rocky points. The bay is only fit for small boats. Ynarajan
Bay is a quarter of a mile wide in the opening, and half a mile deep. It is
open from East to South. During westerly winds a vessel would be per-
fectly safe in it, but not with the opposite. The village of Ynarajan is on
its South side. It has 126 inhabitants, a church, and house for the priest.
Point Goal, on the North side of the entrance, is in lat. 13° 16′ 30″ N., long.
144° 45′ 18″ E.
Agfayan Bay is three-quarters of a mile from Ynarajan Bay, and is smaller
than that. It may have good anchorage for less than 15 or 20 feet. Its
mouth is to E.N.E.; at the bottom is a small brook, where boats can readily
procure water.
Ajayan Point, the S.E. point of Guam, is in lat. 13° 14′ 0″ N., long. 144°
44' 0" E., and has been before mentioned.
ROTA ISLAND (Zarpane or Sarpan) called Luta by the present inhabit-
ants, lies N.E. N. 10 leagues from the North end of Guam. Its dimen-
sions are 12 miles from N.E. by E. to S.W. by W., its breadth 5½ miles. It
is hilly in its East and North portions, particularly so in the centre, where it
is about 800 feet high, but becomes lower, in the form of an amphitheatre,
to the S.W., to a low and sandy isthmus, where the villages of Sosanlago or
Sossan Hagno and Sosanjaya or Sossan Haya are built. To the S.W. of this
isthmus is the S.W. point, called Taipingon Point, a hill terminating in a
level and very regular plateau.
The S.E. side of the island is tolerably high and perpendicular on the sea-
shore, presenting thus a straight wall, and at its angles vertical fissures like
the embrasures of a fort. In other parts the land descends gradually to the
sea, terminating in long and low points. Its N.W. coast and the S.E. of
the isthmus are bestrewed with numerous rocks, on which the sea breaks
more or less, according to the direction of the wind. The portion of the
island not inhabited is so encumbered with bushes (on the North side only
are some cocoa-nut trees) that it is difficult to penetrate. Three wells furnish
water to the people. Two of them are artificial, and the water is detestable ;
3 F 2
804
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
a third, which is natural, affords better, though it is brackish. On the East
coast, a mile from the village, there is a rivulet of very good water.
Captain Sanchez y Zayas gives the following remarks on Rota :—
The two villages above mentioned are more properly two streets which,
collectively, are called Rota. They consist of seventy-nine huts of leaves and
bamboos, a small hermitage called a church, a house for the padre, and a
sort of hovel which they call the royal house. The priest is the only
European, and there are 335 inhabitants. There is anchorage opposite to
either village. The streets are built on the sandy isthmus, which is so low
that the sea threatens to break over it in bad weather. The people then take
refuge in a cavern near Sosanjaya. This cavern is exceedingly curious,
abounding in crystals, and of unknown but great extent. It is stated that
there is an extinct crater on the summit of the island, but it must be of great
antiquity, for the trees cover it luxuriantly. On the flanks of the mountain
there are scattered a great number of ancient stone monuments, apparently
sepulchral, and belonging to an age anterior to the Chamorros or last in-
habitants.
The anchorage of Sosanlago to the N.W. of the sandy isthmus is very bad.
There is but a small space for anchorage on the reef, and the bottom is
rocky, besides which the depth is most uneven. The Narvaez was quite
brought up to shoal water, and the anchor dropped in a hole 30 fathoms
deep. The ground all around the island is of coral, which will explain
this.
The roadstead of Sosanjaya, on the opposite side of the isthmus, is as bad
as the other, with this distinction, that here the coast is rocky and there is
no landing. Although the Narvaez was here protected from the N.E. wind
and swell, yet to land, the boats had to pull around Point Taipingon for 3
miles to get to the village. Captain Sanchez y Zayas thinks that it is the
worst in the Marianas.
The only refreshments to be got here are poultry, bananas, and oranges,
which the people will exchange for useful things, such as cloth, nails, or
utensils, in preference to money. Water is scarce, bad, and difficult to
embark.*
Aguijan Island (or Agrigan Island).—At 42 miles N.N.E. of Rota is the
small island of Aguijan. It is not more than a league in its greatest dia-
meter. In its North part are high, perpendicular, and nearly naked rocks,
but crowned with a thick wood. At a distance this island appears parched
* Kimball Islands.-In 1842 Captain Kimball reported (in the San Francisco Herald)
that he had seen a group of small islands in 14° 25′ N., long. 149° 10′ E., or 200 miles east-
ward of Rota. Nothing more is known of them, and they may be placed as very
doubtful.
TINIAN ISLAND.
805
and barren, but this is not so when closer. At about three-quarters of a mile
to the S.W. of Aguijan there are three rocks, small and perpendicular.
Between them and the island there is a passage for the largest ship. The
island is uninhabited. It is said that the inhabitants of Tinian formerly
carried some goats to Aguijan; they may have multiplied greatly, for it is
but little frequented. The only points fit for landing are on the West and
N.W. sides. They are very small creeks, lined with sandy beaches. Its
centre is in lat. 14° 53′ 30″, long. 145° 30′ 0″ E.
TINIAN, or Bona Vista, is separated from Aguijan by a channel 6 miles
broad. It has been celebrated for its fertility and the prodigious quantity of
cattle. It has now a population of 18! It is 9 miles in extent in a North
and South direction, and 4½ miles broad. Anson Road, which is on the western
side of the island, close to its South point, being open, and the bottom very
bad, it cannot be recommended as an anchorage, particularly between the
months of June and October. Lord Anson anchored here, August 27, 1742,
in 22 fathoms, on a bottom of hard sand and coral; at this position the two
extremes of the island bore N.W. N. and S.E. E.; the centre of Aguijan
Island, S.S.W.; the peak of Saypan Island was visible over the Island of
Tinian, in the direction of N.N.E. E., and a reef of rocks lying between
the vessel and the shore to E.S.E. † E.
1
4
1
1
The first account of the Mariana archipelago that deserves the attention of
navigators is that given by Richard Walter, the chaplain to Commodore
Anson, in his voyage round the world, who came to Tinian as just stated,
and remained till the end of October, 1742. Frightful ravages had been
made by scurvy in the ill-fated crew of the Centurion, in a previous part of
her voyage. Their ill fortune had not forsaken them. They arrived here
in their floating hospital, and by means of the refreshments spontaneously
produced they all recovered in a week. Walter draws the picture of Tinian
in the most glowing colours. The healthy and dry soil, the beauty of its
natural meadows, the diversified woods and lawns, valleys and hills, abound-
ing with herds of thousands of cattle; guanacoes, wild hogs, exceedingly
fierce, but excellent meat; wild fowls, too, in every part; its fruits, guavas,
cocoa-nuts in considerable numbers, limes, oranges, and "a kind of fruit
peculiar to these islands, called by the Indians rhymay, but by us bread-
fruit," swell into a long list of luxuries to the declining mariners. The fish
that were taken proved obnoxious; Walter supposes from the men eating
too much, but Byron afterwards proved that it really was of deleterious
quality. The island had no rivulets or running water, but springs were
everywhere met with, "and in the midst of the island there are two or three
considerable pieces of excellent water." The accounts of Anson's stay,
and what they saw in Tinian, led to very great expectation in the succeed-
ing visitors.
When Byron came here, twenty-two years after Anson, he found Tinian a
806
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
very different place to what it had been described. Instead of a paradise,
it was, in almost all respects, the reverse. The climate was insufferably hot,
the water scarce and bad, and the plague of fleas intolerable. Walter, it is
true, mentions the last drawback; but Byron says they were covered with
them from head to foot, nor could they open their mouths without getting
them filled. Added to this, it was found more unhealthy than almost any
other place that they had visited. The two accounts of 1742, and Byron's
in 1763, could scarcely be more opposite. Wallis, who came here in 1767,
draws a picture scarcely more flattering than the latter. Captain Gilbert,
who passed it in 1788, says that Captain Wallis's account seemed to be
nearest to its condition at that time; so that we may suppose that Lord
Byron's picture is somewhat overdrawn, as that of Walter's undoubtedly is.
Lieutenant Mortimer, who came here in 1789, in the Mercury, got all they
required, but the cattle were very wild and shy. The well near the an-
chorage, so much praised by Richard Walter, and so dispraised by Byron
as being brackish and full of worms, was found to be good and sweet;
but this may have been the effect of season. Lieutenant Mortimer was
here in December, Commodore Byron in August; Captain Gilbert found it
dry in August, 1788.
On one point all agree, that is, the badness of the roadstead; we therefore
quote Richard Walter's words :-"But the most important and formidable
exception to the place remains still to be told; this is, the inconvenience of
the road, and the little security there is, in some seasons, for a ship to an-
chor. The only proper anchorage place for ships of burthen is at the S.W.
end of the island; the Peak of Saypan, seen over the northern part of Say-
pan, and bearing N.N.E. E., is a direction for readily finding it; the an-
choring place is then 8 miles distant. Here the Centurion anchored in 22
fathoms, about 1 miles off the shore, opposite to a sandy bay. The bottom
of this road is full of sharp pointed coral rocks, which, during four months
of the year, that is, from the middle of June to the middle of October, render
it very unsafe anchorage. This is the season of the western monsoons; when
near the full and change of the moon, but more particularly at the change,
the wind is usually variable all round the compass, and seldom fails to blow
with such fury that the stoutest cables are not to be confided in. What adds
to the danger at these times is the excessive rapidity of the tide of flood,
which sets to the S.E., between this island and that of Aguijan, a small islet
near the South extremity of Tinian, which, in the galleon's chart, is repre-
sented only by a dot. This tide runs at first with a vast head and overfall of
water, occasioning such a hollow and overgrown sea as is scarcely to be con-
ceived, so that we were under the dreadful apprehension of being pooped by
it, though we were in a 60-gun ship. In the remaining eight months of the
year, that is, from the middle of October to the middle of June, there is a
constant season of settled weather; when, if the cables are but well armed,
SAIPAN ISLAND.
807
there is scarcely any danger of their being ever rubbed; so that, during all
that interval, it is as secure a road as could be wished for. I shall only add
that the anchoring bank is very shelving, and stretches along the S.W. end
of the island, and is entirely free from shoals, except a reef of rocks, which
is visible, and lies about half a mile from the shore, affording a narrow pas-
sage into a small bay, which is the only place where boats can possibly land."
-(Anson's Voyage, book iii., chap. 2.)
We have been more discursive on Tinian than its merits perhaps deserve,
but as it is a point familiar in the history of navigation, it has more interest
than it would otherwise claim. When Feycinet came here, in 1819, he found
not more than twenty inhabitants on it, and Captain Sanchez y Zayas says
that there were eighteen in 1864. The position of the village of Sunharon,
abreast of Anson's Road, is lat. 14° 59′ 22″ N., long. 145° 36′ 20″ E.
Captain Sanchez y Zayas says that Tinian is very low, and has no hills of
any kind. But pumice-stone, black sand and scoriæ, which are found every-
where on it, give certain indications of its volcanic origin. All the western
side, except Sunharon, is perpendicular, and may be passed close-too,
especially at Point Gurguan, the S.W. end of which he nearly touched in the
Narvaez, but still it would be better to give it a berth of half a mile, as the
shores are not perfectly known.
In the N.W part there is a reef which runs off a short distance, and off the
eastern side, which is even more perpendicular, and more weather beaten
than the western coast. It is said that a reef extends eastward from Point
Lalo, the South extremity; but it is much narrower than is shown on the
chart.
The village of Sunharon consisted at the time of the visit of the Narvaez,
of fifteen huts, inhabited by 15 people, who are sent here from Agaña, and
changed every two years, for the purpose of slaughtering the cattle and dry-
ing the flesh, making what is called tajea or tasajo (jerked beef), which is
sold for the benefit of the Lepers' hospital, and forms one of the small
sources of revenue possessed by the islands. At a short distance from the
village, on the East coast, is the hospital for incurable lepers, of which there
were only three in 1865, creatures condemned without mercy by the Spaniards,
but they are cared for by the Indians. The antiquities which are found on
Tinian have been before alluded to.
Sunharon is the only point where a vessel can anchor or a boat can land.
The Narvaez anchored here for five hours in the best spot she could find, and
with every caution, but she broke her anchor. This will indicate the worth
of the anchorage.
SAIPAN or Seypan Island, which is distinguished by a lofty peak, is so
close to Tinian that small boats pass from one to the other over the shoal
water. This island is fertile, wooded, and was considered the largest of the
808
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
Marianas, being 13 miles in length in a North and South direction, but it
is very much smaller than Guam.*
The volcanic cone is of a perfect form, but its elevation has been much
exaggerated. Captain Sanchez y Zayas believes that it is not more than
from 1,000 to 1,200 feet, but it was not measured. It has been given at
double this. At about 2 or 3 miles to the North of this peak there is another
extinct crater, moderately elevated on the mountain.
Formerly the island must have been populous, judging from the numerous
tombs which are met with, and there are still some caves filled with skulls,
which were the objects of veneration before the arrival of the Spaniards. At
that period it was entirely depopulated, and has remained so nearly to the
present time. In 1810 the Americans founded a colony, or rather a trading
post for the whalers, but they were driven away in 1815. About 1812 some
natives of the Carolines, whose island had been submerged, obtained per-
mission to settle here, and they founded the village of Garapan on the East
coast, which at the time of the visit of the Narvaez, in January, 1864, had
433 inhabitants, including 9 Chamorro Indians.
The direction of the western coast of Saipan, beyond the South point, is
first N.W., then it turns to the North. It is skirted by coral reefs, extend-
ing from 1 to 13 miles from the shore, and has an arm, formerly much ex-
aggerated in size, stretching to the S.W., and near to the end of which is
Managasa Island.
Managasa Island is in reality about 2 miles to N.N.W. from the N.W.
point of Saypan, and has no prolongation of the reef.
Garapan is in lat. 15° 12′ 11″ N., and long. 10° 3′ 24.7" East of Umata.
It may be recognised from sea at several leagues distance by a large white
rock on the shore, resembling a white patch on the dark green of the vege-
tation. When this bears between North and East you may steer for it, but
it must on no account be brought to the South of East or between East and
South.
Mañagasa Island will be left to port, guarding against the reef off it, and
you may anchor with the flagstaff at the village to the North of East, in 10
to 15 fathoms. Care must be taken not to bring the flagstaff to bear East,
because this leads on to the Tortuga Bank, which is extremely dangerous
and nearly awash, the sea but rarely breaking on it. To the North of this
* Captain Sanchez y Zayas found that the charts of Saypan were very defective, and
that many of the names were misplaced. A long reef is shown as running out from the
North part of the island, and terminating about 8 miles from its southern point, and on
this reef is placed Managasa and two other small islets. Nothing of this kind exists.
The chart he has improved is not quite correct, but is better than that previously
given.
MAGICIENNE BAY.
809
bank is a series of other shoals, separated by small channels, which unites
with those of Mañagasa Island.
There is anchorage also about a mile outside the reefs in 19 fathoms to 7
or 8 fathoms close to them, bringing the most conspicuous of the houses about
E.N.E., and Mañagasa Island to North or N. by E. The bottom is generally
rocky and coral, but with some sandy spots. The Narvaez anchored in 14 fa-
thoms rock and sand, with the West point of Mañagasa N. by E.; the East
point N. 14° E.; Saypan N.W. point N. 35° E.; the largest house in Gara-
pan N. 68° E.; N.E. point of Tinian S. 14° W.; N.W. point S. 24° W.
During the period of the N.E. trades this anchorage is safe, but during
the season when the S.W. monsoon may reach the Marianas, a vessel
would be in great danger here, should she be overtaken with even moder-
ately bad weather.
There is a boat channel across the reefs to the village; it is wide enough
and is beaconed by the natives with trunks of trees. This channel can be
used by day by attending to these marks, but not by night without a compe-
tent guide, as the channel is very crooked.
Tanapag is a spacious harbour between the N.W. shore of Saypan and
Mañagasa Island. The entrance is difficult, especially for a sailing vessel,
with N.E. winds. It is a narrow channel bestrewed with rocky heads, but
when within there is a well-sheltered and safe anchorage. The Spanish cor-
vette did not remain long enough to make a plan of it, but from what was
learned respecting it, it was concluded that this harbour, and that of San
Luis d'Apra, were the only ones in the Marianas, where a vessel of any size
could heave down and careen. A whaler of considerable draught had done
so in Tanapag.
Magicienne Bay, so named by Captain N. Vansittart, R.N., C.B., in com-
mand of the steam-frigate of that name, in July, 1858, is on the S.E. side of
Saypan; lat. 15° 8′ 30″, long. 145° 44′. Captain Sanchez y Zayas says that
it is not better than any other part of the coast where there are regular
soundings. It is probably safe with S. W. winds (August and September), bnt
it would be better to go to Tanapag. During the rest of the year it would be
impossible to remain here on account of the heavy sea.
The Magicienne,
from Hawaii to Hong Kong, being short of fuel, came here to cut wood.
Mr. Harvey, the master of the steam frigate says:
"This bay cannot be recommended to a sailing vessel, as the water in it
is deep, and the anchorage so close to a coral reef bordering its shore, that
with a southerly wind there would be no room to weigh. The depth is 30
fathoms, over coral with sandy patches, at only a third of a mile from the
bluff at the head of the bay, decreasing rapidly to 3 fathoms close alongside
the coral reef, which nearly dries at low water. The Magicienne anchored in
18 fathoms water, with the S.W. point of the bay bearing S. E. about 2
miles; the S.E. point, which is a bluff, E.S.E. 1 miles; and a wooded bluff
810
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
at the head of the bay, N.N.W. W. nearly a third of a mile. When the
vessel swung to the shore there were 9 fathoms, coral patches under her
stern, and she was distant only a cable's length from the reef; at a cable's
length to the southward of her anchor there was no bottom at 70 fathoms.
The bay is well protected, being open only from E.S.E. to South.
“Supplies.—There is a plentiful supply of wood growing on the shores of
Magicienne Bay, sufficient for any number of vessels, being for the most part
the thickness of a man's body, white when cut, and in substance something
between a bod ash and a poplar. The best place for landing is on the sandy
beach to the eastward of the wooded bluff at the head of the bay. The crew
of the Magicienne cut down and brought on board 172 fathoms in six days,
the wood growing close to the beach, and easily carried to the boats, which
could lie afloat close to the coral reef. The wood soon dried, but being
freshly cut, it was necessary to split and bark it on board before using it for
steaming purposes, also to use a small quantity of coal with it; the bark was
very sappy. The wood being free of resinous substances, it did not give out
so much heat as might have been expected; three and a half fathoms of it
being only equal to one ton of good Welsh coal. No water could be ob-
tained; wells were dug, but the water from them was brackish; indeed there
appears to be no water on the island except what is caught during the
rains, and the rainy season in August, September, and October. Cocoa-
nuts, bread-fruit, and limes are plentiful. There are also many wild pigs
and bullocks; the latter belong to the Spanish government. Pigs, poultry,
and fruit, can be obtained at the village.
"The few days the Magicienne remained in this bay the wind was light
from the S.E. during the day, and at night a light air from the land between
N.E. and N.W.
"It is high water, full and change, in Magicienne Bay, at 6h 45™, and the
tide rises about 2 feet."
FARALLON DE MEDINILLA (or Bird Island) is only 2 miles long, N.E.
and S.W.; its breadth much less. It is a calcareous rock, about 50 ft. high,
flat, with perpendicular sides. It is barren, and has reddish patches. On
the South and West sides are some very deep caverns or grottos. M. Du-
perrey says that the South point is terminated by a small hill, perhaps joined
to the island by a low isthmus. At its South part is a pierced rock, through
which a boat might pass. Freycinet called it Pointe des Grottes, and the
island itself after the respectable governor of Guam.
Captain Sanchez y Zayas, who examined this island carefully, could trace
no resemblance between its form and the French plan.* Either the figure
-* The captain of the Narvaez adds that all the northern islands of the archipelago were
very badly represented; and, as will be mentioned presently, the chart was manifestly very
hurriedly drawn up.
ANATAXAN ISLAND, ETC.
811
of the island has changed considerably, or else the plan is drawn from imagi-
nation; the low neck and hummock could not be recognised; all appeared
of the same elevation.
The governor of the Marianas stated that there existed vestiges of a crater
on its summit. It is undoubtedly of volcanic origin, and is completely bare
of vegetation; and not being more than 45 feet high, the sea washes com-
pletely over it in heavy weather. Its centre is in lat. 15° 59′ 20″ N., long.
146° 0' E.
ANATAXAN or Anatajan Island is 9 leagues N.W. of the last; it is
about 5 miles long, East and West. It has two very high and steep peaks
lying on the same parallel. To the S.W. only there is a small point slightly
projecting. The island has every appearance of being volcanic.
It was seen by the Narvaez 40 miles off, although the weather was not
very clear. It is very steep-to all around. In the southern part only is a
sort of creek, in which, however, the water is so deep that a vessel could
not anchor. Three peaks are seen from this part, one of which, it is said,
is a volcano. Perhaps a closer examination might discover a boat or other
landing, because the island was inhabited at the time of the Spanish dis-
covery. It is covered with trees and bushes, among which the cocoa-nut is
conspicuous. Lat. of the centre, 16° 20′ N., long. 145° 40' E.
SARIGUAN ISLAND, to the N.N.E. of the preceding, at 20 miles distant
appears to be merely a high hill, of the form of an upright cone, with nearly
a circular base, 1 miles in diameter. Its summit is rounded, and seems to
be of volcanic origin.
It was formerly inhabited, but is now completely deserted. Freycinet says
that it is almost without vegetation. Sanchez y Zayas says that it is covered
with trees; lat. 16° 41′ N., long. 145° 47′ E.
FARALLON DE TORRES or Zealandia Rocks.-The first of these names
is given from a former governor of the Marianas, who gave a note of their
position to all commanders who arrived at Guam. The second is that of the
vessel commanded by Captain J. Foster, who drew attention to their ex-
istence in 1859. Their previous omission from the charts led to a series of
very remarkable errors, as stated in the note below.*
* These rocks were shown as two points to the S.W. of Guguan (but without name) on
Espinosa's chart of 1812. They were passed unnoticed in the Uranie by Freycinet, in
1819, and that commander, being possessed of a correct list of the islands in their proper
order, applied the name Piedras de Torres to the island of Guguan to the North of it,
then transposing all the correct names up to Agrigan, which he called Asuncion, placed
Pagon at 3 leagues to the North of the island properly so called, but which he called Ala-
maguan. This supposed island, which they thought they saw imperfectly through the haze,
has no existance, and thus this imaginary island, coupled with the omission of the Piedras de
Torres, well known to the natives to exist to the South of Guguan, has led to the confusion
812
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
The name Farallon is perhaps scarcely applicable to them. They are not
pinnacled rocks above water, and therefore Piedras de Torres, the Torres
Rocks, best describes them. It may be that the heavy sea constantly beating
on them has reduced the height of these evidently volcanic peaks,
since their first announcement. They were not seen by the Narvaez, but they
were described by the shipwrecked people they had on board, and especially
by Salas, a pilot, that they consisted of three rocks awash, each about as
large as a boat, occupying a space about a cable's length, more or less, in
extent. There is no appearance of soundings near them, and in fine weather
the sea only breaks at long intervals. Their position, as stated, accords with
that given by Captain Foster.
The Zealandia, under the command of the above officer, from New Zealand
to Shanghai, was passing between Guguan and Sariguan on December 31,
1858, supposing the channel to be quite clear and safe, as shown by the
charts. He says:—
"At 4 p.m. Sariguan Island bearing S.S.W., distant 12 miles; wind light
from the eastward; ship steering W.N.W. about 4 knots, breakers were
reported right ahead; saw two large patches about three-quarters of a mile
from the ship; altered course to pass about half a mile northward of them,
keeping a good look-out from the top-sail yard. At 4.20 p.m. Sariguan
Island bore S. by W. W., distant about 11 or 12 miles, and the breakers
in one with the island, distant from the ship about half a mile. The two
patches bore from each other N. by E. and S. by W., about a quarter of a
mile apart, with dark water between and all around them; the sea broke at
times heavily."
The weather was threatening, and the day closing, so that Captain Foster
did not think it prudent to make a closer examination of them, but his care-
ful observations place them in about lat. 16° 51′ N., long. 145° 50′ E.
GUGUAN.—This small island is about 12 leagues from Sariguan. It is
above alluded to. This error was common to all charts after the publication of Duperrey's
chart of 1819 until 1866, when Captain Sanchez y Zayas' chart was published by the
Spanish Government from the observations made in the Narvaez, in 1864 and 1865.
Captain Sanchez y Zayas devotes several pages to the discussion of this important error,
and to his passage between these islands.-(See Ann. Hyd., No. 416, pp. 240-250.)
He took from Agrigan and Pagan fifteen persons who were nearly lost on the reef in
question in August 1863, and the launch was afterwards wrecked on Pagan. The rectifi-
cation thus made by the Spanish commander was complete, but as the origin of the mistake
is so manifest it does not require many words to explain it. In the ensuing descriptions of
these otherwise unimportant islands, they will be noticed under their proper names. It
may suffice here to say that Guguan was erroneously called Farallon de Torres; Alamagan
was called Guguan; Pagan was called Agrigan, an imaginary island being substituted for
Pagan. Besides this another imaginary group, the Mangs Islets, were supposed to have
been seen in the Uranic, but do not exist.
ALAMAGAN ISLAND, ETC.
813
2 miles from N.N.E. to S.S.W. Its breadth does not much exceed a mile,
and it is of moderate height, much resembling the Farallon de Medinilla.
Its North point is the lowest; throughout it has a most barren aspect, is
perpendicular, and unapproachable on all sides. Freycinet named it after
Major de Torres, at Guam, and gives its correct position, lat. 17° 16′ 50″,
long. 145° 50′ 15″ E.
•
ALAMAGAN or Alamaguan is almost exactly North of Guguan, and
5 leagues distant from it. It lies North and South, 24 miles long, and is
one of the highest in the archipelago. On it are two peaks, as seen from the
West, the northern one may be 2,000 feet high. The late Spanish survey
makes it 2,300 English feet. To the South and East the slope of the hills is
extremely rapid, and the rock, which descends to the sea, is composed of
lava. At its South end there are, however, some white and red spots, and
to the West a point covered with trees; it is the only place where there are
any large vegetables. The North side is not so steep as the South. The
highest point on the North side is a vast crater, from whence Freycinet saw
smoke issue, as was also the case with another to the N.W., at two-thirds up
the mountain. Lat. 17° 34′ N., long. 145° 51′ E.
PAGAN (or Pagon) is very nearly on the meridian of Alamagan. It
was imperfectly seen by Freycinet. Captain Sanchez y Zayas says that
it is about 8 miles long N.E. and S.W., and 2 miles broad. At a distance
it makes as two or three islands, because its two ends are mountainous, and
are connected by a deep valley. There are three active volcanoes on it; one
of which is to the N.E., the others to the S.W. The first is a conical
mountain, from which there issued dense columns of smoke when the Narvaez
passed, on January 5th, 1865. The two others to the S.W. are open craters
on the large hill, in which the island terminates at this end. One of them
is enormous, and flames issued from the other.
The valley between the
hills is covered with black sand and innumerable bushes. The tropical ve-
getation reaches nearly to the summit of the mountains, except the N.E. cone,
which is quite bare.
There is very little water on the island, but pigs and game may be got
in abundance. The Narvaez anchored off the N.W. side about the middle,
the spot may be known by a large rock, which at 6 or 7 miles off seems to
be like an islet. At 3 or 4 cables off this is bad anchorage in 14 fathoms,
bottom of coral rocks. Landing is very difficult here, but about a mile to
the N.E. of this rock there is a low sandy beach, which has probably better
anchorage and easier landing.
This low beach is a very narrow tongue of sand, which separates the sea
from a large and very deep lagoon. The governor of the Marianas, who was on
board the Narvaez, thought that by cutting through this tongue an excellent
814
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
harbour would be formed, but such a harbour would be useless.* The vol-
cano at the N.E. end is in lat. 18° 7′ N., long. 145° 52′ E.
AGRIGAN or Grigan Island is about 6 miles long, on which are seen two
high peaks, apparently a former volcano. Wilkes, by an imperfect obser-
vation, made it to be 2,300 feet high. To the S.W. of the island there is,
from what M. Freycinet was assured, a small plain, in front of which there
is bad anchorage, on account of the violence of the currents. The Americans
and some Sandwich islanders were established on this island, on the S.W.
side, but were forcibly removed by the governor of Guam, as before
stated. Captain Sanchez y Zayas thinks that the above elevation given by
Wilkes is very much in excess, as he considered it not more than two-thirds
of that height.
Agrigan, seen from a great distance from the South, assumes the form of
a perfect trapezium with two small eminences at the upper angles. It is
safe all round, and it is very steep. The anchorage may be easily known,
because it is in front of the only sandy beach on the island. Bottom will
not be found till within 4 cables of the beach, and then the depth is regular,
from 15 to 17 fathoms, black sand. The only anchorage is that taken by the
Narvaez, in 11 fathoms, with the S.W. point of Agrigan bearing N.N.W.,
and the South point S. 64° W., about a mile from the landing place, and 3
or 4 cables off shore. To the southward was a large light-coloured patch
like shoal water, but there was not less than 6 fathoms water on it. The
landing is very bad. The beach is of very coarse black sand, very light, and
evidently of volcanic origin.
On Agrigan are abundance of cocoa-nuts, bananas, and tropical roots, as
well as a large quantity of pigs, goats, and poultry. The present governor
formed a curing establishment here, similar to that on Tinian, but for want
of means of communication it was abandoned, and then the Narvaez took off
the men left there, and let loose the animals whey had collected, they left
the island unpeopled. The island is evidently volcanic, but there are no
lava streams, nor appearance of a crater as formerly stated. The soil is
very fertile, and the island is covered from shore to summit with vegeta-
tion. The S.E. point is in lat. 18° 46′ 20″ N., long. 145° 41′ 45″ E.†
* There is a tale (so frequently told) of treasure being buried on Pagan, about 1820 or
1822. The captain of an English schooner came to Agana in order to seek for this treasure,
which he had buried here when captain of an English brig, which had come from some
port in Peru or Chili at the time of the war of independance. The inhabitants had placed
their valuables on board the brig, which sailed off in the night, by the aid of two
sailors, whom he afterwards assassinated. The papers which he had apparently fixed the
place in Pagan. But the whole story is so vague that it may be fairly placed among the
many similar romances.
†The Mongs or Manjas Islands have been another difficulty in the hydrography of the
ASUNCION ISLAND.
815
ASUNCION or Assumption Island is 55 miles N. by W. from Agrigan.
It is a conical mountain about a mile in diameter, and with a large crater
on the summit.
Its eastern side is of lava, and the sea washes up it to a
considerable height, at least 260 feet, or double the height of the masts, a
certain indication of the great depth of the sea at its base. There is scarcely
any vegetation on the eastern side. At the North end of the island is a
rock through which the sea has worn a passage. To the North of this
point two rocky heads show themselves; they lie about a cable off the
point.
On the West side the slope of the mountain is less rapid, and forms a
perfect cone; but like the other, the coast is perpendicular. Outside the
southern and lowest part of the island there are two or three rocks, but not
more than half a cable's length off. All this side is covered with a vigorous
tropical vegetation. It is not known whether any one has landed on it since
La Pérouse did on December 14th, 1786, when he carefully observed its
position on shore.
Asuncion is very lofty, and is consequently from its small base a remark-
able object. La Pérouse estimated it at 1.200 feet; Duperrey at 1,700; but
Captain Sanchez y Zayas says these figures are evidently too small, and by
two angular measurements he obtained a mean height of 802.5 metres or
2,600 ft. The crater is in lat. 19° 45′ N., long. 145° 30′ E.
The URRACAS ISLANDS are three in number, the largest to the West,
the smallest to the N.E. They are moderately high, very irregular, and lie
in a circle 2 or 3 miles in diameter. They are connected by breakers which
complete the circle around them. The outer part of this circle is of a regu-
lar form, but the inner sides are much cut up. The outer side is of a red-
dish lava, the inner black and calcined. The group appears to have been
the summit or crater of an immense volcano, or the ruins of a former peak,
twin-brother to Asuncion. It is entirely desolate, neither tree, brushwood,
Marianas. They were first stated by La Pérouse to bear 28° W. from Assumption (Asun-
cion), but whether to N.N.W. or S.S.W. was not clear. In the account of Freycinet's
voyage they were said to have been seen from the Uranie's mast-head, bearing to the
S.S.W. of Asuncion, and are so placed on Duperrey's chart. But as La Pérouse says that
he never saw the Urracas, they have been placed to the N.N.W. of Asuncion on the French
and Spanish charts of 1862, so that they have had two positions on the charts, and in
addition to this, the Admiralty chart, gives the name to the Urracas.
This mystery was also cleared up by the Narvaez. Her commander sought zealously for
them in their assigned positions, steaming over their sites, and finding no evidence of their
existence. The conclusion that he justly arrived at was, that this extensive reef and islets
were identical with the Urracas, and that La Pérouse's account will perfectly bear out
this, as they are clearly visible from Asuncion, and nothing else is in sight in that
direction.
816
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS, ETC.
nor rivulet is to be seen. Its outer side, beyond the encircling rocks,
is evidently very deep, and they drop suddenly into deep water.
It is far from being dangerous; in fact they form an excellent point of
recognition, as they may be seen at a great distance, and they are entirely
free from danger outside the circle. Lat. 20° 6′ 35″ N., and long.
145° 20′ E.
GUY ROCK or Farallon de Pajaros is the northernmost of the Marianas.
It was discovered by Douglas, September 12, 1789, and is placed under the
second name in Espinosa's chart. It was first properly described by Capt.
Sanchez y Zayas in 1865. It is really an island, and not a rock or farallon.
It is about 1,100 or 1,200 feet high, and 1½ mile broad from North to South,
and 2 miles or more East and West. It is a conical mountain, crowned with
a volcano in activity, for four or five columns of very thick and black smoke
were seen to the S.W. of the summit at a spot which resembled a crater.
On the South, East, and North sides the coast is perpendicular, and the sea
beats heavily upon them. To the S.E. a large rock lies against the coast,
and near this are several others, one of which is very remarkable, resem-
bling a sharp-pointed steeple. To the West the side of the mountain slopes
more gradually, but there are no off-lying dangers on this side. There is
no landing, nor vegetation, nor reason for going ashore. The summit is in
lat. 20° 30′ N., long. 145° 8′ 40″ E.
BRITOMART REEF.-In 1869 Captain Bartlett, of the British barque
Britomart, passed close to a reef, level with the water, and from 400 to 500
feet long. It lies 75 leagues westward of Asuncion, in lat. 19° 18' N., long.
141° 34' E.
LINDSAY ISLAND.-This island was discovered by Mr. Lindsay, of the
British schooner Amelia, during a calm, on Christmas-day, 1848. It ap-
peared about 50 feet high, and 4 miles in length, very barren, and of a dark
brown colour. Of its position, lat. 19° 20′ N., long. 141° 8' E., its dis-
coverer speaks confidently, having proved the rate of his chronometer only
two days previously at the Islands of Grigan and Asuncion.
But Captain Bartlett, of the Britomart, above mentioned, passed over this
position in 1869, but it was not visible from the mast-head in fine clear
daylight.
FLORENCE SHOAL.-Captain E. Wadsworth, of the Florence, reports
as follows:-April 13th, 1862, lat. 18° 6' N., long. 143° 18′ E., we passed
over a shoal of 2 miles in extent; got a cast of the lead in 10 fathoms, coral,
but was off the bank before we could sound again. Previous to sounding
we passed over some places much shoaler, probably not more than 5 or 6
fathoms; I called it Florence shoal.
DETACHED ISLANDS AND SHOALS.
817
Anson Shoal.-On the old charts a shoal is shown at 140 miles East of
Luzon, in lat. 17° 35' N. It may have been seen by Captain Ayer, in the
Earl of Clare, March, 1848; bottom of large white shells and dark-
coloured rocks; water not discoloured; no soundings. Lat. 17° 50′ N., long.
124° 40′ E.*
The Philippine Islands, which limit the North Pacific to the westward,
between the parallels included in this Chapter, are described in our Directory
for the Indian Archipelago, &c., 1869, pages 794-824.
* Besides this shoal several others are found on the old charts in the neighbourhood of
the Marianas, but the positions are so vague, both in latitude and longitude, that nothing
certain can be said about them. The following is an enumeration of the chief of
them:-
A shoal, from Spanish charts, is marked at 5° to the eastward of the Anson shoal above
mentioned.
A reef, in lat. 16° 32′ N., long. 143° 22′ E., from the Honolulu Friend.
An island, in lat. 17° 0′ N., long. 136° 0′ E., from whaler report.
A reef, in lat. 17° 6' N., long. 159° 14′ E., from whaler report.
Folger Island, in lat. 18° 21′ N., long. 155° 19′ E., was passed over by the flag-ship of the
U.S. Exploring Expedition.
▲ doubtful shoal, in lat. 15° 30′ N., long. 141° 10′ E.
Spanish Islands, in lat. 13° 55′ N., long. 142° 10' E.
Anson Islands, repeated, in lat. 13° 0′ N. long. 141° 35′ E.
Islands from the Spanish charts, in 13° 20′ E., 138° 30′ E. (The U.S. Exploring Expedi-
tion passed near these last positions.)
Mira-por-vos, in lat. 14° 20′, long. 143° 20′, may refer to the Sta. Rosa Bank, if it exists,
or it is otherwise unknown. Garbanzos, a degree to the southward, may be the same, but
cannot be determined.
3 a
North Pacific.
(818)
CHAPTER XIV.
ISLANDS TO THE NORTHWARD OF LAT. 20° N., INCLUDING
THE HAWAIIAN OR SANDWICH ISLANDS.
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
THESE islands were discovered by Captain Cook, in his last and unfortunate
voyage. Proceeding from Tahiti, he made the land of Atooi and Woahoo,
to the North and N.E., on Sunday, January 18, 1778. They were named by
him the Sandwich Islands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich, the then first
lord of the Admiralty, under whose administration he had enriched geography
with so many and splendid discoveries.
Although to Cook belongs the honour of thus making them really known
to Europe, there are some proofs that they had been previously seen by the
early Spanish voyagers, the first of whom was Juan Gaetano, in 1542, who
made the first voyage from New Spain to the coast of Asia, though there is
no account that he saw them. On the old Spanish charts there is a group
marked in the same latitude, but much farther to the eastward than the
Sandwich Islands; the southernmost and largest of these is called La Mesa
(the table); to the N.E. of this is La Desgraciada (unfavoured); and to the
N.W. is a group of six, collectively called Los Monjes (the monks). In the
different charts of Lord Anson, taken with the Manila galleon, and those
noticed by Burney (vol. v.), they are placed from 10° to 22° farther East than
the Sandwich group. They were unsuccessfully sought for by La Pérouse,
Vancouver, and others. And as the ancients determined their longitudes
nearly by chance, the conclusion is almost irresistible that this group is in-
tended for those under consideration. In this view, if the islands were seen
at a distance, La Mesa would answer for the flat-topped Mauna Loa in Ha-
waii, and it is here now suggested that La Desgraciada would answer to
Mauna Kea; Fleurieu, who was the first to point out this subject, considered
that La Desgraciada might be a separate and undiscovered island. Los
Monjes would represent the western islands of the windward group, Oahu,

19°
200
21°
22°
160°
malae Bay
Kapua Pt
Kaulaka
Passage
Lehua or Orechoua I.
pt Pouwai
NIIHAU
Na Pali Pt
Pt Mana&
Opela
Oku P. Hanapepo
Waimea B
Kona Peak
19
Yams B.
Paao Hd
12
Cooks Anchorage
C.Kawaihoa
Kaula or
Tahoora
1590
1580
1570
156°
155°
KAUAI
Koolau Hd
Waima Bay
C.Kawai
Puna Cove
Kaloa Pt
C.Kaena
Waimea B.
PtMakua
Pt Waianae
Maliaka Bay
Pukahea
Waimanolo
p
go
Pearl Locks
15 20
Funalan Pt
Makoli Ister
OAHU
Makua Pt
Hakipan Pt
Weiahole Ha
Hemobila
της ετε
Honolulu Har..
Diamond
Pt Lealu
Mokapu Pt
Kaelepulu pt
Cocos Hill
HAWAII
OR
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
C.Makapua
Kawaihoa
C.Kalaau
Kalaako
60
C.Kaluakou
MOLOKAI (MOROTOI)
LANAI (RANAI)
AlinaMowing
Kaludaha
C.Kaena Kua Pt
Maanalei
Peli Kaholo
C.Kamaiki
Kalala
Halawa Pt
ol oopow
Pailolo Channel
Gynoapt
Poupiha P
Auau Channel
LE
Lahama
Olowala
Kamalaea
C.Kealaikahiki
KAHULAUI
Molokini
Kanapali P
Honokoha
na & Eeka
6130ft
*
Hamakoa Pt
Waipaka
MAUI
Vlamulu pt
to face page 818.
154°
210
220
B.
kala
Kanelo Pt
P.Hana
Papaauhao Pt
Halemano 1.
Kaapahou
Mikimiki Pt
C.Kahiki
Upolu pt
Pauepu
Niuli
Upolu Bank:
Owawaruaalal
40
Kaihova
Pololou
Kawaihae BayRawatbed
Kaparaoo
Lava Pt
Kaupulehe
Kaulano Pt
Kailua Bay
Pahoihoi
or
20°
Waimanu Valley
Wapio Valley
Waurio
Kaholalele
Neuved
Hilo
Manienie
Healakaka pt
Kaura Valley
Laupahoi
Bay
phuthoi Ba
huole
Waikea or Byron Bay
Honorort o
THEEK
C.Leleini
Mauai
Makuou
Waiakakaula
Kula
chenitihikao
Pualaa
Waipouki Pt
Kalapana
Kapahona
Poulama
Kearakomo
Apua Pt
HAWAII
Kapoho Point
Kiboro
Mauna Kea
Mauna Huahah
Volder kuh
Kealakekua
Karakakooa Bay
Accubou
Kalama
Kilauea
Kaei
Kauhako
Mama Loa
2,3h high
Асаринан
Kaobi
Anapauka
PMilota
Peli Point
Pounahala
Klotukad
File
Ninole
Raverohea Rock
rou
Pahae
Tarriti
South
Point
Ka Lac
190
155°
154°
160°
159°
158°
1570
156°
R.H.LAURIE, 53 FLEET STREET, LONDON,
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
819
Maui, &c., and thus, without much difficulty, all discrepancies would be re-
conciled except that of longitude.
Other evidences exist of some prior knowledge of European people. Cook
found in his first interview two pieces of iron, which could only be de-
rived from Europeans, a piece of iron hoop two inches long, and an apparent
point of a broadsword. The feather head-dresses, in the form of European
helmets, and the grotesque heads of the same material, which he procured,
and are now to be seen in the ethnological room of the British Museum, also
indicate a similar origin of ideas. Added to this, the adoration paid to Cook,
as the looked-for god, combined with the other traditionary evidence, prove
that some former, though nearly forgotten, intercourse had taken place. Be
that as it may, to Cook undoubtedly belongs the real discovery of the Sand-
wich Islands as now known.
It will be unnecessary to enter into the details of the progress of these
islands in their early days of European intercourse.
After their discovery they were not visited till 1786, when Captains Port-
lock and Dixon anchored at Oahu. La Pérouse visited Maui about the same
time. Vancouver spent several months here in 1792 and 1793. He intro-
duced the present breed of cattle, and during his stay the Island of Hawaii
was ceded to the British crown. The first missionaries were landed at Kai-
rua, in Hawaii, February 4, 1820, from Boston, United States. Some from
England soon followed, and their zeal and industry soon effected a wondrous
change in the character of their converts; and one most prominent circum-
stance arising out of it was the visit of the King Liho-Liho and his queen,
with a native suite, to England, in 1822. They unfortunately died soon
after their arrival. H.M.S. Blonde, under the command of Lord Byron, was
commissioned to convey their bodies back to their kingdom, a proceeding
which made a most favourable impression in Hawaii. Matters would have
gone on well but for religious intolerance. The Protestant missionaries both
English and American, had increased; but in 1827 some Romish priests
were introduced; they were expelled in 1830.
In 1836 the Romish propa-
ganda again introduced themselves, but great bigotry on both sides led to
most serious results. It gave occasion to the French government to act
with very great harshness, and finally to take possession of the islands.
The most prominent circumstance in this affair is that of the Clementine, a
brigantine under the British flag, in 1839, which was forcibly entered, and
made to retain on board two French missionaries brought by her on her late
voyage from California. To adjust this outrage, Captain Sir Edward Bel-
cher endeavoured to convince the missionaries and the king (Tamehameha
III.) of the impropriety of this step. The French frigate, La Vénus, 60 guns,
appeared at this critical moment, and Captain Du Petit Thouars acted with
Sir Edward Belcher in the matter, and the missionaries were for a time
landed, and an acknowledgment given that reparation should be made to the
3 G 2
820
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
owners of the Clementine. After this the government and the state of so-
ciety became disorganised, and after much controversy the French took pos-
session of the Sandwich Islands, August 25, 1849.
This interference was subsequently adjusted, and the power of the king
settled on a firm basis. A constitution simple, but stringent, and adapted to
the requirements of the people, was promulgated in 1864, and the integrity
of the kingdom has been guaranteed by a tripartite treaty between England,
France, and the United States. The government is monarchical, and based
largely on that of Great Britain. The king governs by a cabinet and a
legislative chamber. Each island has its viceroy, and life, property, and
justice are as secure as in any country in the world. Unfortunately party
politics and intrigues mar at times what might otherwise be the perfect hap-
piness of a simple community.
The natives and their habits have been too often described to need much
being said here. When Cook first landed, their astonishment was extreme.
They were above the middle size, and well made; their complexion rather
darker than those of Tahiti, and altogether not so handsome a people. Most
of their former customs, so much dilated on in the early accounts, have
passed away, and are generally superseded by European habits and manners,
not perhaps altogether advantageous to them.
The estimate of Cook, in 1779, that there were 400,000, is generally be-
lieved to be much too large. Probably 300,000 would be nearer the truth.
One thing is certain, that there must have been a vastly greater population
then than now, as is evidenced by the rich taro land now lying waste on all
the islands; and in the districts of Kau, Waimea, and Kohalu, on Hawaii,
it will be very evident that three or four times the number of people must
have lived to have cultivated it.
The following statistics will show that the decrease has been rapid. The
population in 1823 was estimated at 142,050; and according to the census of
1832, 130,315; and from that of 1836, 108,579. The decrease appears to
have been in progress almost from the date of their discovery. One cause,
at least, has added to this; the number of young men who leave the islands
in whalers and other ships, and never return. The number annually afloat
is computed at 4,000. Their wives and children, thus left to want, fall into
vicious habits and destruction. Another cause is the mortality of 1848, the
"year of death," when it is supposed that 10,000 were swept from the islands
by the measles, whooping-cough, and influenza combined.
The last census, taken in 1866, gave the following as the result of the po-
pulation. Besides the islands thus enumerated there are Molokini, Lehua,
Kaula, and Nihoa, which are uninhabited, barren, and very small. The area
of the islands given below is a new estimate from the charts, and differs con-
siderably from the official statement.
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
PRESENT POPULATION OF THE KINGDOM.
Area sq. geo. m.
Foreigners.
Natives.
Total.
Hawaii
2,640
572
19,226
19,808
Maui
413
605
13,430
14,035
Kaui
422
392
5,907
6,299
Oahu
383
2,574
17,225
19,799
Molakai
98
29
2,270
2,299
Lanai
98
9
385
894
Niihau
65
13
312
325
Kahulaue
19
0
0
0
Total...... 4,148
4,194
58,765
62,959
821
The present king Lot-Kamehameha V. was born December 11, 1830. He is
the son of the governor Kekuanaoa and Kinaou, daughter of Kamehameha
I., and succeeded his brother Kamehameha IV., in November 1863.
In 1862 an English missionary bishop, Dr. Staley, arrived at Honolulu,
and a beautiful cathedral, chiefly of worked stone, sent out from England,
has been erected.
The one great source of prosperity in former years was the whale-fishery.
This important branch of commerce, which has been referred to previously,
attracted such a concourse of the New England and other whalers to the
North Pacific, that in 1859 the number which visited the Sandwich Islands
to refit amounted to 549 square-rigged vessels. In 1846, 674 vessels touched
here, chiefly whalers. Of the moral advantage to the natives of this influx
of licentious sailors, little can be said, but it brought much wealth. After
that year there was a very sudden and great decrease. The amount of
sperm
and whale oil, and whalebone, decreased to less than one-half, or one-third
of what it was in 1858, when it was at the maximum, 222,464 gallóns
sperm 2,551,382 gallons whale oil, 1,614,710 lbs. whale bone, in 1858; re-
duced to 47,859 gallons of sperm, 782,086 gallons whale oil, 572,900 lbs.
whale bone, in 1860; and these items became reduced in 1862 to less than
one-third of what they were in 1860. After that they began to increase
slightly, so that the whale ships which entered were 73 in 1862, 102 in 1863,
140 in 1864, and 180 in 1865. Since this period this source of revenue has
so much declined, while others have increased, that it is no longer looked
on as the staple commerce of the islands.
The development of the commerce and increase of the population in Cali-
fornia, and the consequent trade which has steadily progressed with San
Francisco, and also the advance of British Columbia, and the intercourse with
the free port of Victoria, are now the real sources of prosperity to the Ha-
waiian Islands. They may be considered as the "West Indies" of N.W.
America, and their fertility and great adaptability for the growth of sugar,
coffee, cotton, &c., only await the influx of capital and labour to make them
822
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
capable of supplying the whole of the countries on the N.E. Pacific with
these necessaries.* But the restrictive duties imposed at San Francisco
(amounting to from 50 to 100 per cent. on the value of the sugar), has much
interfered with that trade.
In 1867 there were 33 sugar plantations in operation, comprising about
11,000 acres. The cost of producing sugar is about 3 cents. or 1d. per lb.
Rice was produced to the extent of 1,000,000 lbs. Wool is also largely
grown; there were above 1,000,000 sheep, including large flocks of merinos,
on the islands. The island of Niihau was purchased of the government by
a Scotch family from Canterbury, New Zealand, for a sheep farm. Cotton
failed somewhat on account of drought and from worms, but was largely
grown. Coffee was also blighted for above 10 years.
Excellent coal from Vancouver Island can be had for about 11 dollars, or
44s. per ton, Australian coal for the same price, and the best Welsh steam
coal at about 14 dollars, or 56s. per ton.
Now that the Pacific railway is in operation, and San Francisco has be-
come, as it were, a station on the high road to China and Japan, these
islands seem to be destined as a stopping place for the trans-oceanic steamers,
lying as they do immediately in this route, either from thence or Panama.
THE WINDS, which are most prevalent on the Hawaiian Archipelago, are
those from the north-eastward. This trade wind, which prevails for a great
portion of the year, is interrupted when the sun is in high South latitude,
or during the northern winter. From the geographical position of the
islands near to the tropic, the northern edge of the trade wind recedes to the
southward of their latitude in this season, and then the anti-trade wind from
the westward, shifting between N.W. and S. W., is frequently heavy and
changeable, being a struggle between the two systems, and forming the equi-
valent to what are called the "horse latitudes," in the North Atlantic. They
bring abundant rain on to the opposite sides of the islands, which have the
rain during the summer months. These westerly winds set in usually in Ja-
nuary, and continue till the middle of April, or commencement of May, when
the trade wind again sets in.
The CLIMATE of the Sandwich Islands is generally temperate and healthy,
for a sub-tropical region; it would appear to resemble that of the West In-
dies, though more temperate in the higher lands, being not too hot to pre-
* When it is remembered that the commerce and productions of the volcanic island of
Mauritius, in the same latitude South that these islands are North, are at the present day
nearly thirty times greater than those of the Sandwich Islands, whilst the latter have
several times greater area and available land, as well as greater diversity of climate and
resources, it will be readily seen what an opening is presented for future commerce, and
how valuable this trade may become to Great Britain, especially if Victoria be preserved
as a free port.-Mr. Consul-General Synge, 1865.
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
823
vent white men working, even in agricultural pursuits. From the constant
nature of the wind, the temperature and climate generally vary on different
sides of the islands, and from their insular character and their great eleva-
tion, the clouds are intercepted, and rain is consequently abundant in some
localities, and drought the characteristic of others. Thus the North side of
Kauai is 3º cooler than the South side from this cause, and it rains 9 months
of the year, and from this the country is clothed in perpetual green. On the
West side of Hawaii, on the other hand, rain seldom falls on the coast, and
a rainy day once a year is considered remarkable. The range of the ther-
mometer on the windward side of the islands is from 54° to 86°; on the lee
side it seldom falls so low as the former temperature. The climate is
healthy, none of the intertropical diseases are known, nor do fever, ague,
or cholera occur.
Bishop Staley gives the following as a brief summary of the climate.
Situated only just within the limit of the northern tropic, and in the region
of the N.E. trades, which blow the greater part of the year, and convey the
ocean vapour, condensed into clouds, over the mountains and table lands,
then to fall in fertilizing showers; the country enjoys a luxuriant and deli-
cious climate. The average annual temperature is 77° Fahr., with only a
few degrees of variation above and below. But the local climates are varied,
depending on aspect and elevation. At Waimea, on a plateau about 4,000
feet above the sea level, in the North of Hawaii, a fire in your bed-room is
necessary. On the other hand the houses at Honolulu and many other places
are built without chimneys, no fires being needed at any period of the year.
Generally speaking, there is more rain on the windward than the leeward
sides of the island. Hence the rich hues of the eastern slopes of Hawaii,
covered with verdure and cultivation, contrast strongly with the bare and
arid look of the coast on the greater part of the western side.
There is no tropical wet season, in the ordinary sense of the term-that is,
at the summer epoch. On the contrary, the wettest part of the year is when
the sun's vertical is farthest removed from the northern tropis, viz., in De-
cember and January. Then abundant rain falls, storms. of great violence,
called Konas, suddenly arise, and the inter-island navigation has to be sus-
pended (1868).
On the West side of Hawaii the land and sea-breezes are very regular;
there are also strong North winds, but the most severe gales are those from
S.W., which as stated the natives term kona. These last from a few hours
to two or even three days, and are followed by rain; they are seldom strong
enough to injure the houses.
The TIDES are comparatively inconsiderable, and, with the heavy swell
setting upon the outer reefs, difficult to estimate, but they are very regular,
flowing and ebbing six hours each. The flood comes from the eastward; and
it is high water, at full and change of the moon, at 3" 45" apparent time.
824
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Their greatest rise is 2 feet 7 inches, and the water is always observed to be
4 inches higher when the moon is above the horizon than when it is
below.
The CURRENTS in the immediate vicinity of the islands at first sight would
seem to be very uncertain; sometimes setting to windward, and at other
times to leeward, without any regularity. They do not appear to be go-
verned by the winds nor other cause; they frequently set to windward
against a fresh breeze.
But whatever may be the irregularity of the current within the influence
of the archipelago, a circumstance related by Vancouver incontestably de-
monstrates that, beyond them, they follow, at least at times, some general
law. When at Kaui he saw a noble canoe, 61 feet long, formed from a
single pine tree, which wood does not grow on the islands. Its origin was
more singular than the canoe itself. It was a tree drifted on to the East
end of Kaui in a perfectly sound state, without a shake or a bruise. This
circumstance of fir timber being drifted on to the northern sides of the
islands is by no means uncommon, and but little doubt can be entertained
that they had come from the West coast of America. This would prove, as
would at once be supposed, that the usual current in the offing came
from N.E.
Another circumstance also bears with great weight upon the current drifts
and the direction of the winds. On a former page we have noticed the
singular circumstance of the wreck of a Japanese junk near Cape Flattery,
in Oregon, in 1833. About the same time, a junk laden with fish, with nine
hands on board, left one of the southern islands of the Japanese archipelago
for Jedo, but encountering a typhoon, was driven to sea. After wandering
about the ocean for ten or eleven months, they anchored, on the last Sunday
of December, 1832, near the Harbour of Waialea, Oahu. The Hawaiians,
when they saw a strange people, much resembling themselves in person and
in many of their habits, said, "It is plain now we come from Asia." How
far their unwilling course was regulated by current of course cannot be
exactly ascertained, but it would appear probable that, being blown off to
the northward, a current, relatively similar to the Gulf Stream of the Atlantic,
may have carried them eastward, and then within range of the south-westerly
current, which drifts pine timber.
Sir Edward Belcher experienced a strong current to W.N.W. when off
Honolulu, and it frequently runs at the rate of 1 mile per hour. These
considerations must greatly influence all navigation conducted between the
islands.
EARTHQUAKES are common, especially in Hawaii, where the volcanoes are
still in activity. Of course they are more severe in that island than in the
others, where the subterraneous fires seem to be extinct.
Several very severe visitations have been recorded since their discovery,
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
825
and in some cases the phenomena, which have been carefully observed and
recorded, afford very interesting subjects for the physical geographer. The
earlier eruptions apparently arose from Kilauea, those of more recent times.
from Mauna Loa.
The first recorded is an eruption of Kilauea in 1789, but no particulars
worth reciting are stated in connection with it. The next was an eruption
from the same volcano in 1823, when the lava flowed to the sea at 12 miles
from the equator. The third was in 1832, and was an eruption from Kilauea,
and also from the summit of Mauna Loa, when lava flowed for two or three
weeks, and is supposed to have entered Kawaihae Bay. The fourth was on
May 30, 1840, when lava flowed from the side of Kilauea, and formed a
stream 18 or 20 miles long.
The fifth eruption began on Mauna Loa on January 10th, 1842, when a
stream of lava issued from its summit, and, running northward, it divided,
one branch towards Hilo, and a second towards Kawaihae. On Feb. 15th,
1852, another stream of lava issued from the same crater, and, with some
interruptions, continued for a month, but did not reach the sea.
A most alarming eruption from Mauna Loa commenced on August 11th,
1855, and the lava continued to flow for thirteen months, until it covered
an area estimated at 300 square miles. Again, on Jan. 23rd, 1859, another
great stream of lava burst forth, and flowed for six months, reaching the sea
to the S.W. of Kawaihae.
The last and greatest eruption on record commenced by some slight pre-
monitions, in March, 1868, by some earthquakes. These shocks became so
numerous that 2,000 were counted in a short space of time. Some of these
were very destructive, and accompanied by the great sea-wave and a mud
eruption which swept away and buried villages, men, cattle, &c., and on the
7th April, ten days after the first symptoms of the convulsion, a new crater
opened on the flank of Mauna Loa; a stream of lava flowed into the sea
half-way between Apua and the southern point, the mud-flow meanwhile
wending its course to the North of this direction. One of the fairest parts
of the island was thus in a single day converted into a black-looking, deso-
late tract of cinders and mud. In many places in Kau the ground has
opened, chasms of unknown depth have formed, whence sulphurous exhala-
tions are emitted; a fissure, some miles in length, has extended inland from
the coast, crossing one of the island high roads, and so deflecting it that
what were contrary sides before are, at the point of breakage, now in one
and the same straight line. The floor of the crater in the Kilauea volcano·
has sunk considerably. At Lahaina, upwards of 100 miles from the starting
point of the eruption, the column of cloud ascending from it was observed
under an angle of 3° 30′, which (allowing for 500 feet of altitude, the position
of the observer) indicated a height of nearly 8 miles. So vast a body of
vapour rushing visibly upwards with tremendous rapidity, proved the pre-
826
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
sence of an immense heat at its base; the great rarefaction by heat of the
air near the new crater would cause a powerful upward draught; then the
cold air, charged with the vapours of the surrounding sea, must rush in.
For days after the eruption, the leeward islands were enveloped not only
in a close oppressive atmosphere, but in clouds and heavy rains. A very
distinct odour of sulphurous acid was perceptible at Honolulu 180 miles dis-
tant, two days after the eruption. The earthquakes were continued at in-
tervals for some months.
The archipelago consists of twelve islands, which were discovered by Cook
in his last voyage; and to these may be added two small ones to the N.W.,
seen at later periods. Of these six are uninhabited and are barren rocks.
They will all be described in order, commencing with the S.E.
Throughout the archipelago there is every evidence of their upheaval, and
the dates of these elevations are manifest in the conditions of the different
islands. Those to the westward are the most ancient, Nihoà and Niihau are
the oldest; Kaui, Molokai, and Maui follow; and Hawaii, the largest and
most recent, is still in activity. But although it is asserted that the western
islands are the oldest, it may not be strictly correct, except in the sense that
the evidence of recent volcanic action is least evident there. But everywhere
there are marks of a gradual or convulsive elevation of the group. On
Molokai, in the middle of the islands, coral is found at 500 feet elevation,
and in Kaui coral beds lie at 4,000 feet above the sea. It is in Hawaii
itself, however, that the grandest evidence of the plutonic origin of the
islands is most evident and active. In the other islands lava streams and
extinct craters are recognisable, but in the great island some of the most
terrible phenomena of volcanic disturbance have been shown in late years,
as will be briefly noticed in the description of that island.
There is very great variation between the orthography used by the early
voyagers and that subsequently adopted by the missionaries on a more inti-
mate knowledge of the language. The latter mode is, of course, to be con-
sidered as the correct one, and is that placed first in these pages.
HAWAII, the south-eastern, and by much the largest of the group, is
called Owhyhee by Cook and others. Kotzebue calls it O Wahi; Freycinet
and others, Owhyhi. All these words are representations of the same sound.
Hawaii is of a triangular form; the West side, running generally North
and South, is 100 miles in length; the N.E. 'side is 84 miles, and the S.E.
side is 64 miles long; so that its whole circumference may be taken as 250
geographical, or 288 British statute, miles.
The mountains of Hawaii do not ascend in peaks, as do many other vol-
canic islands, such as Eimeo or Teneriffe, but rise gradually and compara-
tively unbroken, particularly from the southern shore to the lofty summit of
MAUNA LOA.
827
Mauna Loa. Its appearance altogether is less romantic and picturesque than
Tahiti, but it is more majestic and grand.
There are but few inland settlements on the East and N.W. parts of the
island, but in general the interior is an uninhabited wilderness. There is a
vast central valley between the three great mountains. This central part is
a great desert of lava, of every known kind. It is only the northern plain,
the eastern slope, and some portions of the South and West, which are pro-
ductive, and where are to be found sugar estates, and cattle "ranches" and
sheep runs equal to any in the world.
There are three principal mountains in Hawaii, Mauna Kea in the N.E.,
Mauna Hualali in the N.W., and Mauna Loa in the South. As stated on
a former page, they are active outlets of the subterranean fires which have
formed the archipelago.
The general direction of this, parallel to the great mountain chains of
America on the one hand, and nearly that of Kamtschatka, to which quarter
it is directed, seems to indicate some general law in the structure of the
earth, or that some fissures in the crust exist in this region of it.
Mauna Kea is less evidently an active volcano than the others. It con-
sists almost entirely of scoriæ, without any apparent craters. It may be
characterized as a vast mound, surmounted with nine cones, the southern-
most of which is the highest. Perhaps these cones may be considered as
craters. Although a sister mountain to Mauna Loa, it is of very different
form and apparent composition. On its summit frosts prevail, and vegetation
continues up to within 1,000 feet of its summit, and even higher. The plants
also differ. Their height is singularly equal, not being more than 193 feet
higher than the summit of Mauna Loa, or 13,953 feet, according to the
measurement of Commodore Wilkes in 1841, which is 300 feet higher than
previous estimates (13,645 feet).
Mauna Huahali, or Huarari (or Worroray, as it is called by Vancouver),
although not of such gigantic proportions as the other two principal moun-
tains, is yet very conspicuous. On its summit is a very extensive crater,
which has been instrumental in wonderfully changing the surface of the
surrounding country. Besides the central spiracle, hundreds of cone craters,
or hills of scoriaceous lava, may be seen from its summit, like excrescences
on its sides. Its height is given as 7,822 feet.
Mauna Loa was from Cook's first estimate considered to be one of the
highest mountains in the world. Although his calculation was in excess, it
is still to be ranked with the loftiest. Its form is unique, and has been in-
creasing, and is perhaps entirely formed from the overflow of its terminal
crater. Its form is that of an extensive flattened dome, falling very gradu-
ally on its northern and eastern sides. Its summit was ascended, and nu-
morous observations made here by the U.S. Exploring Expedition, in 1841.
The highest part of the edge of the summit crater was then found to be
828
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
13,760 feet above the sea. The crater is a most extensive one, and possesses
all those wonderful characteristics which have been so frequently described.
This is the principal spiracle of Hawaii, and its recent eruptions have been
among the most violent on record, as described on page 825. This active
volcano and its destructive effects renders this principal island in a great
measure uninhabitable, and discourages any attempt at colonization.
The Kilauea or Kiraueah Volcano lies on the side, as it were, and to the
S.E. of Mauna Loa. It is merely an immense crater, 3½ miles long, 24 miles
wide, and over 1,000 feet deep. The bottom in the daytime looks like a
heap of smouldering ruins; what is wonderful in the day becomes ten times
more so at night. The height of this singular volcano above the sea was
found to be 3,970 feet. To the S.E. of it is a line of craters, from some of
which a great eruption occurred May 31, 1840. Having thus described
briefly and imperfectly these, the most wonderful features of the Pacific, we
pass on to the coast, commencing with the S.E.
Kapoho Point is the easternmost projection of the island. The country is
exceedingly fertile; sugar-cane grows here in abundance, coffee succeeds
well, as do indigo and tacca, from which arrow-root is made. The coast to
the N.W. is a precipitous shore, about 15 feet high, on which the sea beats
with violence at all times. It is bestrewed with lava streams, apparently of
old date. At 3 miles from the East point is Puna, where there is a large
church, but no village, as the houses are much scattered. Kanakiki, a small
village, is 1½ mile from Puna, and 3 miles further is a spot where an exten-
sive stream of lava enters the sea, called Nanavalie. Prior to the eruption
in 1840 the coast was a continuous lava cliff; now the site is occupied by
three sand-hills, formed by the lava stream, of very singular formation, the
highest 250 feet. There is no appearance of shoal water opposite, though
such was stated to be the case.
HILO, Waiakea, or Byron's Bay, is the first, indeed the only place of con-
sequence, on this side of the island to the seaman. The bay has been
variously named. Lord Byron calls it Hido, after the village in the bottom
of the bay. Lieut. Malden calls it after another village, Waiakea; and the
third is from the name of the British commander who first anchored here,
but is not now thus known among the natives.
Hilo, the second town in population and commercial importance in the
Hawaiian Islands, is situated on a beautiful bay of the same name, on the
windward side of Hawaii. The bay of Hilo was formerly called Waiakea,
and frequently Byron's Bay, but the present native name, being to the
manor born," and more appropriate, has by general consent superseded
the others. It is in North lat. 19° 45′ and 155° 6′ West longitude from
Greenwich. The anchorage is good and the harbour capacious. The cres-
cent shore slopes to the water's edge, where it terminates in a regular sandy
beach. The boat landing is excellent.
HILO.
829
The population of Hilo proper at the last census, as near as can be ascer-
tained, was 1750. Of this, the active business portion is composed of fo-
reigners. The Americans are more numerous, about 75 in number, and there
are many Chinese of the better class.
There are two substantial churches in Hilo. The Protestant church is
large, indeed sufficiently commodious for the entire population of Hilo. The
Roman Catholic church is also commodious, well constructed, and roofed
with slate. It is finely situated, with its white towers and belfries, sur-
mounted by two crosses directly in front of the harbour. There are several
schools, stores, an iron foundry, and all other accessories of civilization.
The harbour of Hilo, with little expense, could be made one of the safest
and most commodious in the Pacific. By constructing a breakwater on the
reef, northward from the point beyond Waiakea, the harbour would be per-
fectly safe, land-locked, and sheltered at all times. This could be easily
effected by building a tram railway, and by means of cars, which could
transport the abundant hard, volcanic material near at hand, upon the
reef. It is but a short distance to immense beds of basaltic, vitreous, and
vesicular lava, which would resist the action of water for ages. The convict
labour of the island would be sufficient to accomplish the work in a few
years, and render Hilo a port where all the shipping of the Pacific could
ride securely at anchor. It is now more capacious than any other bay
or harbour on the island, and it is not subject to violent gales from any
quarter.
There is a good watering-place up Waterfall Creek, within the mouth of
the Waialuku River, which is generally easy of access, except when the
wind is blowing hard from the north-eastward; on such occasions the surf is
high, and the rocky bar at the entrance then becomes dangerous for boats
to pass. The water is excellent and abundant.
The best landing-place is southward of Cocoa-nut Island, in the S.E.
corner of the bay, but it is easy to land on the beach in proper boats.
Light.—In 1869 a lighthouse was erected on Paukaa Point, at the en-
trance. It shows a fixed white light, elevated 50 feet above the sea, and in
clear weather should be seen from a distance of 10 miles. From the light-
house, the outer point of the reef bears S.E. by E., the inner point of the
reef S.S.E., Leleiwi Point E. by S., and Makahanaloa Point N. 1 W.
We have no directions in connection with this light, but it will be very
serviceable.
The following directions are by Lieut. Malden :—
H.M.S. Blonde, as before stated, was the first man-of-war that ever en-
tered this bay, and hence it was called after her commander. The western
side runs nearly North and South, about 9 miles; the eastern E.N.E. and
W.S.W., about one-third that distance. The anchorage, in 6 or 7 fathoms,
stiff muddy bottom, is protected from the N.E., to which it is apparently
830
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
open, by a coral reef, half a mile in breadth, extending from the eastern
point in a W.N.W. direction, two-thirds across the bay, leaving a channel
three-quarters of a mile broad between it and the West shore, with 10 and
11 fathoms in it. When the wind blows strong, a heavy surf breaks upon
the reef, but inside it is smooth. It is only exposed between N. to W. by N.,
from which quarter the wind never blows hard in summer, and but very
rarely in the winter; only one northerly gale had been felt in two years.
The surrounding scenery is the most beautiful in the Sandwich Islands, but
the climate is wet, showers occurring daily. Watering is very readily done.
in the S. W. extremity of the bay.
In steering for the anchorage, with the sea-breeze, when about 3 miles
from the bottom of the bay you will be outside the reef, in 25 to 30 fathoms.
The West shore must then be kept close on board. The leading marks for
the channel, to clear the West end of the Blonde Reef, are these:-Keep
the huts on the West side of Waterfall Creek on with the eastern side of a
remarkable green hill (an extinguished volcano), impossible to be mistaken,
bearing by compass S.S.W. W., till the Turret Rock (about 15 feet high)
bears W. by S. S., when you will be in 7 or 8 fathoms, stiff muddy bottom.
The whole of the West coast is composed of cliffs, the huts standing upon
the last and most southerly visible cliff. When upon the West extremity of
the Blonde Reef, the above huts are in one with the western side of the green
hill, bearing S. 29° W., by compass; and at the same time the centre of the
same hill is on with the left of two very distant hummocks. These are fre-
quently obscured by haze, or they would be the best marks. When at the
North extreme of the reef a deep inlet, called Cocoa-nut Cove, in consequence
of there being a group of these trees at the entrance, is quite open, bearing
West by North. As there are no dangers in the channel, and it is more
than three-quarters of a mile wide, there is quite room to beat any vessel
out against the sea-breeze, and which, if it be fresh and steady, is preferable
to running out at daylight with the land wind. The land wind frequently
leaves you in the lurch, and you are obliged to come to in deep water, to
prevent being driven upon the rocky cliffs of the West coast. Indeed, in
turning out of the bay, with a good strong sea-breeze, as soon as you are to
windward of the reef, she should keep beating to windward in a N.E. or
N.E. by E. direction, not attempting to weather the North point of the bay
(Point Blonde) until it can be done with certainty, at the distance of 5 or 6
miles at least; for, when at 3 or 4 miles to the North of Cocoa-nut Cove,
there is no bottom with 50 fathoms, although within half a mile of shore.
So that, should a vessel in this situation be becalmed, her state would be
most dangerous, a heavy swell and current constantly setting against the
precipitous cliffs. Cocoa- nut Island is in lat. 19° 43′ 51" N., long. (East of
Karakakoa) 0° 52′ 50″. Tide rises about 4 feet, high water at sunset, and
low water at daylight, being influenced by the sea and land breezes.
HILO.
831
Captain Wilkes remarks :-As respects the Bay of Hilo, I cannot but view
it as a safe anchorage. We were detained there about three months, and
never had a gale strong enough to ride our anchors, though these were the
winter months, December, January, and February. At times, however,
there was a considerable swell rolling in, so as to make it uncomfortable on
board ship. The weather was not so rainy as was anticipated, and some
most delightful weather was experienced in February.
The whole settlement forms a pretty cluster; the paths and roadsides are
planted with pine-apples, and the soil covered with a rank vegetation.
Waiakea Point is on the opposite side of the bay from Hilo, at rather more
than a mile off; the path between leads along a sandy beach, on which the
surf continually breaks, and at times with great violence.
"The scene which the island presents, as viewed from the anchorage in
Hilo Bay, is both novel and splendid; the shores are studded with extensive
groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, interspersed with plantations of
sugar-cane. Through these numerous streams are seen hurrying to the
ocean; to this succeeds a belt of some miles in width, free from woods, but
clothed in verdure; beyond is a wider belt of forest, whose trees, as they
rise high from the sea, change their character from the vegetation of the
tropics to that of the polar regions; and, above all, tower the snow-capped
summits of the mountains."-(Wilkes, vol. iv. p. 110.)
Hilo, viewed from the harbour, presents much the same tropical appear-
ance as other parts of the islands, and as a panoramic view it is not surpassed
in beauty and grandeur of scenery by any other spot in the kingdom. There
is a luxuriousness and freshness in the vegetation, a living green in the
verdure and foliage, that combine to present an almost perfect picture. The
crescent sweep of the bay, ending with the cluster of cocoa-nuts on the
island, the towering heights of Mauna Kea behind, the majestic dome of
Mauna Loa, all help to form a landscape scene seldom equalled.
The following remarks are by Mr. H. Thompson, R.N., master of H.M.S.
Talbot, which was here in June, 1845:
After a passage of eight days (from Honolulu) we arrived off Byron Bay,
where we took on board a pilot, about 8 miles off shore. The sea-breeze
gradually fell light as we entered within the limits of the bay, and continued
to blow (but very feebly) just sufficient to give the ship steerage way; but
the swell assisted the vessel in, when we anchored in 5 fathoms water, and
afterwards moored with 70 fathoms on best bower to N.E., and 40 fathoms
on small bower to S.W., with the following bearings, viz., Cocoa-nut Point
E. by N. N., the thatched native chapel on with North side of Green Hill
S.W., and Red Cliff Point N. ≥ W.
The anchorage in Byron Bay is open to all winds from North to E. by N.,
being only sheltered in that direction by an extensive sunken reef (Blonde
Reef), on which the depth of water varies from 9 to 6 fathoms, and which
832
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
sufficiently breaks the sea to render a ship comparatively safe behind it.
The pilot told me that during his residence (twenty years) here he had seen
some very strong gales from the N.E., but had never known any vessel
suffer by them; yet I am of opinion that on such occasions a vessel would
find it very heavy riding, and should be provided with good ground tackle.
A ship of any size may anchor here in from 4 to 9 fathoms water.
There is seldom any difficulty experienced in entering this bay, as the sea-
breeze blows right in, and should it be ever so light, with the assistance of
the swell astern, and boats towing if necessary, the anchorage will be gained
in safety. But the egress is not so easy; it is often attended with difficulty,
and sometimes with risk. The channel between the reef and the shore is
narrow, rather too much so to allow a square-rigged vessel to work through,
unless she be a small one, and then it should be only with a commanding
breeze.'
To sail out of Byron Bay a vessel should start with the first of the land-
breeze, which generally comes off soon after midnight, so as to get a good
offing before it ceases, otherwise, if daylight is waited for, the land wind
will seldom hold long enough to take a vessel sufficiently off shore to leave
her in a safe position; and should the sea-breeze fail to blow home to the
coast during the day, which not unfrequently happens, thereby leaving her
exposed, helpless, to a heavy swell setting directly towards the reef, a vessel's
own boats' towing would have but little effect against it. There is a deep-
water anchorage outside the reef, and there is also anchorage in the channel
in 10 to 12 fathoms; but both these anchorages are unsafe when blowing
fresh.
The similarity of the coast and the want of remarkable objects in the
vicinity of this bay, prevents me from describing any conspicuous marks that
would guide a vessel to or from the anchorage. The general rule for ap-
proaching the anchorage is to close the land a little to the northward, and
run down along shore rather within the distance of half a mile, which will
lead a vessel a little inside the North extremity of the reef which forms the
channel; this reef may be seen from a slight elevation above the deck.
There is a long gulley running up the land in a southerly direction from
Cocoa-nut Cove, which forms a good object to steer for when once made out,
as it leads close to the entrance of the channel; it appears like a dark mark
in the land, and there is nothing in that vicinity that resembles it.
""
The coast to the northward of Hilo is somewhat peculiar; it is a steep
bluff, rising about 200 feet; this is cut into small breaks, called here
gulches," within which the villages are generally situated, and the natives
grow bananas and taro. These gulches are ravines from 800 to 1,000 feet
deep, which have been apparently worn by water-courses. There is no
landing for boats, for all along the coast the surf beats on the rocks with
great violence.
HAWAII.
833
This N.E. coast of Hawaii, beyond Hilo Bay, is a lee shore, without
shelter or anchorage. The coast is firm and compact, terminating generally
in steep rocky cliffs, with a few small indented bays, rendered easily accessi-
ble to the native canoes by the sandy beaches that bound them. From these
rugged rocky cliffs many streams of water fall, in cascades or otherwise, into
the ocean.
Laupahoi is about 6 miles northward of Hilo. It is the great pulu depôt
for this side of the mountain, and is a pleasant-looking hamlet, situated at
the mouth of a deep ravine.
Captain Sir Edward Belcher approached these islands from the E.S.E.
July 7, 1837, and passing within 3 or 4 miles of the breaker line, witnessed
these numerous cascades resulting from the showers emanating from the
heavy clouds which capped the summits of Maui and Hawaii. "No de-
scription can convey the idea of the number and variety of the silver
threads which they exhibited; and a sketch, including twenty leaps within
100 or 200 yards, would appear almost a burlesque, yet such was the fact."
The southern portion of this section of the land has a very dreary aspect;
Vancouver says it was perfectly uncultivated, and nearly destitute of habita-
tions; those which are to be seen are small, and thinly scattered. Advancing
to the N.W., the population and cultivation increase. At about 5 leagues
from Healakaka Point, which is called by Vancouver the N.E. point, the coast
is composed of a cluster of remarkably high, steep, rugged, and romantic
cliffs, discharging from their naked summits many rapid cataracts into the
ocean. The rushing of these impetuous torrents down the black, barren
surface of the rocky cliffs, contrasted with the enchanting, cultivated, and
populous country to the East and West, and behind this dreary frontier, for
a considerable distance up the sides of the lofty mountains, on approaching
them in the offing present a very beautiful and picturesque appearance.
Nearly in the centre of these cliffs is a tolerably deep, small bay, off the
Waimanu Valley, much resembling in appearance, and most other respects,
the bay in the island of St. Helena; but it seems too much exposed to the
sea and the prevalent wind to be an eligible place for shipping. At 8 miles
to the westward of this bay, off the western extremity of these cliffs, lie some
rocky islets, a little distance from the land.
Westward of these cliffs there are soundings off shore, as Vancouver found
7 fathoms at 2 miles off, the North (West) point bearing S. 70° W., 9 miles
distant. The sea breaks with great violence near the shore at this part, and
so continues all the way to the N.W. point of the island. There was a very
heavy, confused, irregular sea, which was suspected to arise from a very
sudden decrease in its depth, and the effects of a strong gale.
Upolu Point is the N.W. point of Hawaii.
The land here falls in a
gradual descent from the base of the mountains, and forms an extensive
North Pacific.
3 H
834
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
plain towards the water side, which seemed to be in a high state of cultiva-
tion, and abounds with native houses.
The Kohala district lies on the North point of Hawaii, and is divided from
that of Waimea by a range of mountains. The soil on the leeward shore is
barren from 3 to 5 miles inland. On the windward shore it is of good
quality quite to the beach. The face of the country is regular, gradually
ascending from the coast to the summit of the high lands. Kohala is the
principal place in the district.
There are soundings off the coast to the southward of Upolu Point. Van-
couver anchored here about 7 miles from the point, in 41 fathoms, but drove
off the bank in the night with a gust of wind from the land. On this ac-
count it is objectionable; it is exposed to the North winds, which, with
those that blow from the N.W., are the most violent and dangerous known
in this country.
Kawaihae Bay, Towaihai, Toeaigh (Vancouver), or Toe-yah-yah (King), is
16 miles South of Upolu Point. Captain King says this extensive bay is
bounded to the North by two very conspicuous hills. Towards the bottom
of the bay there is foul corally ground, the soundings are regular, with
good anchorage in 20 fathoms. Captain Wilkes says of this part:-The
district of Waimea is situated on the N.W. side of the island. So much of
the soil of this district as lies along the coast, though rich, is badly watered,
and 7 or 8 miles in the interior from Kawaihae Bay, it becomes exceedingly
rocky and barren. The high land to the eastward of Kawaihae causes
almost a perpetual calm. The mountain region is rocky, and has a burnt
appearance, until the eastern side of the mountain is reached, when a dense
forest and a most luxuriant vegetation succeed. The climate of this district
is, upon the whole, unpleasant, particularly at Waimea, in consequence of
the trade-wind, which is exceedingly strong, bringing with it a mist towards
sunset. This wind rushes furiously down between the mountains which
bound the valley of Waimea, and becomes very dangerous to shipping in
the bay. It is called by the natives "Mumuku," and is foretold by them
from an illuminated streak that is seen far inland. This is believed to be
caused by the reflection of the twilight on the mist that always accompanies.
the Mumuku.
The productions of Waimea are the same as those of the other districts,
but it also abounds in timber of good size and quality for building. This
was the famous sandal-wood district, whence Kamehameha (the king) pro-
cured the cargoes he sold for the Canton market. There are no trees left
now larger than mere saplings. Waimea was also the principal place of
export for hides, tallow, and beef. Of these articles only a small amount is
now exported, owing to the tabu on cattle.
Light.-A fixed white light is now exhibited as a guide to the anchorage
HAWAII.
835
of Kawaihae, elevated about 50 feet above the sea, and in clear weather
should be seen from a distance of 10 miles.
From the N.E. corner of the reef the light bears N.E. by N. ½ N.; with
the light bearing E.N.E. there is good anchorage about a quarter of a mile
from the shore.
Vancouver anchored in this bay February 14, 1793, and again on Febru-
ary 28, 1794, in 25 fathoms, on a bottom of fine brown sand and mud in the
first visit, and on a stiff clay and good holding-ground on the second, the
points of the bay bearing N. 36° W. and S. 31° W.; the Morai, which is
also conspicuous in pointing out the station, N. 68° E.; and the watering-
place at the distance of about 1 mile, being the nearest shore, S. 79° E.
The Morai is a conspicuous object, and a good leading mark into the an-
chorage; it stands on a barren eminence to the southward of the village,
and is to be kept on a line with a small saddle hill, on the eastern land,
descending from the higher parts, over the village of Toeaigh, on the North
side of the bay. Its South point, descending gradually from Hualalaï, and
forming a low point, bore by compass S. 31° W.; within this point, on the
rising land, are some elevated hummocks; the third of these, from the point
forming a kind of saddle hill in a line with a low, projecting, black, rocky
point, in the middle of the bay, bearing S. 22° W., is a further direction,
and a cross mark for this anchorage. On sounding round the ship, about a
fourth of a mile to the S.W., a very small patch of coral rocks was found,
where the water was only 10 fathoms in depth, but increased suddenly to 20
fathoms all around it. This was afterwards found to have only 3 fathoms
in one part. On the opposite side, however, was clear, good anchorage
for about a mile, where many vessels might ride without inconvenience from
the bottom, though nevertheless exposed to the violence of the winds and
sea between the limits above mentioned, comprehending 113° in the western
quarter.
The shoal is a very great inconvenience to the roadstead, which is at best
but a very indifferent one, being entirely exposed to the N.W. winds and
the western oceanic swell, which beats with great violence on the reefs en-
compassing the shores. The only advantageous circumstances are the run
of water, which, however, does not always flow, and the probability of pro-
curing refreshments, from its contiguity to the populous and fertile western
part of the Koarra district, and the plains of Waimea lying behind the
land constituting the sea-coast.
The watering-place is in a small sandy bay, where, over a space of 20
yards of rugged rocks and stones, a fine stream empties itself, whose water
is easily to be procured by landing the casks on the sandy beach, and having
the water brought in smaller vessels to fill them, a service in which the na-
tives would be useful.
Vancouver says: "
Toeaigh (Kawaihae) is situated in a grove of cocoa-
3 H 2
836
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
nut trees, just behind a sandy point. A reef of coral rocks, extending thence
about three-quarters of a mile into the sea, rendered it inaccessible to our
boats in a direct line, but we landed very commodiously in a narrow channel
between the reef and the shore, near the Morai, to the S.E. of the beach.
The village only consisted of straggling houses; in the centre of them was a
reservoir of salt water, from which salt was made."
From the bottom of the bay the coast extends for about 28 miles in an
irregular S.W. direction to the westernmost point of Hawaii, Kaulano Point.
It does not appear to afford any shelter or interest to the mariner.
The great lava stream which flowed from the summit of Mauna Loa in
January-July, 1869, reached the sea about 15 miles to the S.W. of Kawai-
hae, and considerably altered the features of the coast.
The S.W. side of the island is termed the district of Kona (or Akona), and
includes Kealakekua and Kairua or Kailau.
The district of Kailau is similar in character to that of Kealakekua, but
the lava is of a more recent formation, the eruptions from Mauna Hualalaï
having flowed down and covered nearly the whole northern portion. This
eruption happened in 1809 and 1810. The mountain is 7,822 feet high, and
rises abruptly on its West side.
This being the lee side of the island, as explained in a former passage,
rain very seldom falls here, and this, with the absence of all dew, does not
allow of much cultivation. There is coarse herbage enough for slight pas-
turage near the shore, but further inland it becomes better, and the taro
and bread-fruit are abundant. Land and sea breezes are very regular, and
are the prevalent winds.
Kailua, Kairua, or, as it is called by Vancouver, Tyahtatooa Bay, is in
this district, 9 miles from the West point. In Meares's account of Captain
Douglas's voyage this bay is considered equal or superior to that of Keala-
kekua, but Vancouver's closer examination led him to a different conclusion.
It is but a slight bend in the general line of coast, not more than 2 cables'
lengths in depth, according to Captain Duperrey's chart, and scarcely de-
serving the name of a bay. Vancouver anchored with the northernmost
point bearing N. 69° W., by compass; the village, called Ane-oo-rooa, being
the nearest shore, N. 30° E., about half a mile distant, and the point of
Kowrooa (Kolui), S. 22° E. This was as close to the shore as prudence
would allow them to lie, and the bottom in all directions appeared to con-
sist of a mixture of rocks and sand. A considerable swell rolled in from
westward, and by the beaten appearance of the rocks that chiefly compose
the shore, this seemed to be in general the case, and for that reason not a
very eligible place for shipping. It has, however, one superiority over Kea-
lakekua in respect of landing. This convenience is produced by the jutting
out of two points; between these is a small cove, defended by some rocks
lying before it, which break the violence of the surf, and render communi-
HAWAII.·
837
cation with the shore very commodious. The landing is on a sandy beach,
before a grove of cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and other trees, in the midst of
which the village is situated. On a point on the West side is the tomb of
King Kamehameha, which is placed by Duperrey in lat. 19° 37' 20" N., long.
156° 1′ W. Toward the South part of this cove is a spring, which rose very
rapidly from amongst some rocks that are generally covered with the sea
water; but when this is low, which is sometimes the case, it is found to
produce a stream of excellent fresh water; by proper means there is no doubt
but that it might be made available for the neighbourhood and shipping.
Wilkes says that this place had thriven greatly from the industry encouraged
by the native governor of Hawaii.
The next district, or rather portion of the district of Kona, is that of
Kealakekua, or Karakakooa, which lies to the southern end of the preceding.
Wilkes describes it thus:-"Almost the whole coast of this district, extend-
ing 40 miles, is one line of lava. This frequently lies in large masses for
miles in extent, and is in others partially broken, exhibiting perpendicular
cliffs, against which the sea dashes with fury. This formation extends half
a mile into the interior, and as the distance from the sea increases, the soil
becomes richer and more productive. The face of the country, even within
this rocky barrier, is rough, and covered with blocks and beds of lava, more
or less decomposed. The land in places reaches the altitude of 2,000 feet,
and at the distance of 2 miles from the coast begins to be well covered with
woods of various kinds of trees, which are almost rendered impassable by an
undergrowth of vines and ferns. In these woods there are many cleared
spots, which have the appearance of having been formerly cultivated, or
having been burnt by the descending streams of lava. In some places these
strips of wood descend to within a mile of the shore, having escaped de-
struction. These are in no place parallel to the shore, but lie always in the
direction which the streams of lava would take in descending from the
mountains. Cultivation is carried on, and might be increased, notwith-
standing the great difficulties. The only staple commodities at present are
sweet potatoes, upland taro, and yams; the latter almost entirely raised for
ships."
The climate is mild throughout the district, and there are seldom strong
winds. From May to September, the wet or rainy season, there is a good
deal of rain. In December, January, and February, the weather is usually
very dry, and the winds prevail from the North, from which quarter it some-
times blows fresh.
Kealakekua or Karakakooa Bay, derived a sad celebrity from its being
the scene of the death of the immortal Cook, the discoverer of the group, and
the father of modern hydrography.
The following is Captain King's description of it;-"It is about a mile
in depth, and bounded by two low points of land at the distance of half a
8.38
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
league, and bearing S.S.E. and N.N.W. from each other. On the North
point, which is flat and barren, stands the village of Kowrowra; and in the
bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees, there is another vil-
lage of more considerable size, called Kakooa; between them runs a high
rocky cliff, inaccessible from the sea-shore. On the South sides the coast,
for about a mile inland, has a rugged appearance; beyond which the country
rises with a gradual ascent, and is overspread with cultivated enclosures and
groves of cocoa-nut trees, where the habitations of the natives are scattered
in great numbers. The shore all round the bay is covered with a black coral
rock, which makes the landing very dangerous in rough weather; except at
the village of Kakooa, where there is a fine sandy beach, with a morai, or
burying-place, at one extremity, and a small well of fresh water at the
other. This bay appearing to Captain Cook a proper place to refit the
ships and lay in an additional supply of water and provisions, we moored
on the North side, about a quarter of a mile from the shore, Kowrowra
bearing N.W."
The last words of the illustrious circumnavigator's journal refer to this
place :-
"At 11 a.m. (Sunday, January 17, 1779) we anchored in the bay (which
is called by the natives Karakakooa), in 13 fathoms water, over a sandy bottom
and about a quarter of a mile from the N.E. shore. In this situation the
South point of the bay bore South by West, and the North point West
North. We moored with the stream anchor and cable to the northward, un-
bent the sails, and struck the yards and topmast. The ships continued to be
much crowded with natives, and were surrounded by a multitude of canoes.
I had nowhere in the course of my voyages seen so numerous a body of people
assembled at one place; for, besides those who had come off to us in canoes,
all the shore of the bay was covered with spectators, and many hundreds
were swimming round the ship like shoals of fish. We could not but be
struck with the singularity of this scene; and perhaps there were few on
board who now lamented our having failed in our endeavours to find a
northern passage homeward last summer. To this disappointment we owed
our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our
voyage with a discovery which, though the last, seemed in many respects to
be the most important that had been made by Europeans throughout the ex-
tent of the Pacific Ocean.” The subsequent proceedings of the discovery
ships are familiar to all. Captain Cook on his landing was received by the
natives in a most extraordinary manner. He received unmistakable evi-
dences of adoration addressed to him, and several religious ceremonies oc-
curred, in which he was the principal object. The most unbounded liberality
was also shown to the visitors, and all was friendly and respectful. The ships
quitted the bay on the 4th of February, but on springing the foremast they
determined to return, and reached their former anchorage on the 11th fol-
HAWAII.
839
lowing. Their reception was the reverse of what was anticipated, and suspi-
cion and aggression in small matters took the place of the former good feel-
ing. This led to open outbreak, and on Sunday, February 14, 1779, Cook
landed with a boat's crew, in the midst of an immense and armed crowd. A
chief had been unfortunately shot, and the news arriving, was the signal for
open warfare, and Cook was stabbed in the back in attempting to reach the
boat at the water's edge. Thus died the most remarkable man at the scene
of his most important discovery. The stone on which he landed is still shown,
and the stem of a tree, near to the spot where he fell, is now marked with
an inscription on copper relating the fact. The top of this tree has been
brought to England, and deposited at Greenwich hospital.*
The name of the bay, Karakakooa, as Cook calls it, or Kealakekua, ac-
cording to the missionary orthography, signifies "the path of the gods,"
and is so termed from a slide in the hill, still visible, by which the natives
believed the gods used to cross the bay quickly.
The bay is not extensive, and opens between two low and barren hills, on
each of which stands a town. Between them a high perpendicular bluff rises
directly from the water, in which are numerous caves formerly and still
sometimes used as places of burial. These caves are nearly inaccessible,
and resorted to by vast flocks of birds.
The district of Kau occupies the southern extremity of the island. The
coast, says Captain King, presents a prospect of the most horrid and dreary
kind, the whole country appearing to have undergone a total change from
the effects of some dreadful convulsion. The ground is everywhere covered
with cinders, and intersected in many places with black streaks, which seem
to mark the course of a lava which has flown, not many ages back, from the
mountain Roa to the shore. The southern promontory looks like the mere
dregs of a volcano. The projecting headland is composed of broken and
* The fate of Cook is a sad evidence of an unfortunate point in his personal character.
His temper was overbearing and hasty, and for this his attached friend and companion,
Captain King, remarks, he might have been justly blamed. No other navigator ever ex-
perienced such a welcome. He was the god to them which tradition led them to expect to
return, and Lono (O-rono), as he was called, received divine honours and unbounded
liberality. Unfortunately they did not meet with due consideration, and he who was con-
sidered immortal was killed. All his remains were not returned at the time, but his ribs
and breast-bone, as also a sledge from the N.W. coast of America, were afterwards wor-
shipped by those who believed in his divinity. They were preserved in a small wicker
basket, covered with red feathers, and deposited in a temple dedicated to Lono, on the East
side of the island. They were annually carried in procession to other parts of the island.
Their fate has never been properly ascertained, but it is said that some of them were
brought to England by Liho-Liho. The remainder have probably been hidden since
idolatry was abolished.
810
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
craggy rocks, piled irregularly on one another, and terminating in sharp
points.
Notwithstanding the dismal aspect of this part of the island, it is much
more populous than the verdant mountains of Puna to the N.E. Nor is this
circumstance hard to be accounted for; the natives prefer such ground as
lies more convenient for fishing, or is best suited to the cultivation of yams,
and plantains. Now, amid these ruins there are many patches of rich soil,
which are carefully cultivated, and the neighbouring sea abounds with excel-
lent fish. Another inducement for their residence here is that it is the fun-
gus district, where this vegetable production is collected and dried for the
China market, and is sent to Honolulu for shipment in large bales. Off this
part of the coast Captain King could find no ground at less than a cable's
length off the shore, with 160 fathoms of line, excepting in a bight to the
eastward of the South point, where they had regular soundings of 50 and 58
fathoms over a bottom of fine sand.
The South Point is in lat. 18° 54′, long. 155° 39', and on it stands a tole-
rably large village. After Cook's visit it was reported that good anchorage
and excellent shelter existed close round on the western side of this South
point, and had been overlooked by that navigator; but Vancouver, to set the
matter at rest, examined it, and found that the shores were nearly straight,
and exposed to a most tremendous surf, that broke with such fury as to ren-
der landing, if not impossible, highly dangerous, even to those inhabitants
who are most expert in the management of their canoes.
The whole of the S.E. side between the South point and Kapoho Point, a
distance of 65 miles, affords not the smallest shelter or anchorage of any de-
scription.
All this part of the island has been much altered by the effects of the vol-
cano which stands over it.*
MAUI or Mowee of the older navigators, is the next large island to the
* The southern extremity of Hawaii suffered most from the great eruption of Mauna
Loa, of 1868, alluded to on page 825. It commenced, with but few warnings, on March
27th, and from that period to April 10th it was estimated that two thousand shocks were
felt, the heaviest on April 2nd, which was felt in Honolulu, and destroyed every church
and dwelling in the Kau or southern district of Hawaii. On April 7th, a new crater sud-
denly burst out on the side of the mountain, near a house which was covered with lava,
ten minutes afterwards, and from it a river of fire, varying from 500 to 1,200 or 1,500 feet
wide, ran southward at the rate of ten miles an hour. This lava stream reached the S. point,
and the Kona packet, passing this point at the time, it is said at three miles distance
(probably exaggerated), saw a conical island, 400 feet high, rise out of the sea midway be-
tween the land and the vessel, the mud bespattering her sails. The lava flowed down to
this island, so that it now joins the land. The whole of this Kau district was desolated,
and much loss of life ensued, so that it is now deserted.
MAUI.
841
N.W. At a distance it appears like two islands, but a nearer approach
shows the low isthmus only a few feet above the sea, and 9 miles across,
uniting the two peninsulas. The whole island, like all the rest of the group
is volcanic, and appears to have been produced by the two adjacent volca-
noes, which have ejected the enormous masses of matter of which it is com-
posed. The island resembles Tahiti more than Hawaii does, both in form
and appearance. The lofty summits of the southern peninsula are never
covered with snow, though they are often seen above the clouds. The high
land is steep and rugged, showing at all times the igneous nature of its
formation, extinct craters and indurated lava streams. Where this has
decomposed, the sides of the mountains are covered with shrubs and trees.
The surface of the northern peninsula does not appear to be of such recent
formation as that of the southern, and although it is of evident volcanic for-
mation, the marks of recent eruption are seldom seen.
The aspect of the two portions of Maui are very distinct from each other.
East Maui chiefly consists of Mauna Haleakala, which from perpendicular
cliffs near the sea, rises in many parts with one unbroken slope to the sum-
mit. West Maui is very much intersected by sharp peaks and ridges,
separated by deep valleys which form sloping plains of considerable extent
to the northwards and southwards. The highest peak of West Maui is
Mauna o Eeka, 6,130 feet high, and the greater part of this peninsula is
grazing land.
East Maui, though mountainous, has most cultivated land, and the rich
volcanic soil of the Kula District on the S.W. side of the island raises abund-
ant crops
of potatoes, which are sent to supply the whalers' and other ships.
Wheat and other grain is also cultivated, and increasing.
The South point of Maui, Cape Kahiki, is formed by rugged, craggy
rocks, and the sea breaks at a little distance to the N.W. of it. The
edge of this bank is very steep-to, suddenly shoaling from no bottom
with 80 fathoms to 25 fathoms, and then to 10 fathoms. The South side of
the island terminates very abruptly in the ocean, and, though rugged, is
verdant and fertile.
The North coast of East Maui is a succession of deep ravines, running up
the mountains and down them cascades, several hundred feet in height,
but with little volume of water, are to be seen falling. In this respect it
resembles the windward side of Hawaii. This circumstance renders tra-
velling along the coast impossible. The central mountain is named Mauna
Haleakala ("house of the sun"), and somewhat resembles Mauna Kea, on
Hawaii.
Mauna Haleakala has the largest known crater, or it may be that it is
formed of several craters. The mountain is 10,200 feet high, and the crater
measures 12 miles around its edges, and is 2 miles across its widest part. The
summit is bare. At the height of 8,000 feet there is a large cayern. Capt.
842
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Wilkes says:—“The crater of Haleakala, if so it may be called, is a deep
gorge, open at the North and East, forming a kind of elbow; the bottom of
it, as ascertained by the barometer, was 2,783 feet below the summit peak,
and 2,783 feet below the wall. Although its sides are steep, yet a descent is
practicable at almost any part of it. The inside of the crater was entirely
bare of vegetation, and from its bottom arose some large hills of scoria and
sand. Some of the latter are of an ochre-red colour at the summit, with
small craters in the centre. All bore the appearance of volcanic action, but
the natives have no tradition of an eruption."
The isthmus is, as before stated, very low, and consists of sand constantly
shifting, and thrown up into "dunes." It is too dry for cultivation, and is
about 20 by 15 miles in extent. For nine months of the year it is a fine gra-
zing country, and feeds large herds of cattle.
The East end of West Maui is an abrupt precipice, several hundred feet
high on the coast. On the S.E. part of it is a female seminary, of some
celebrity, called Wailuku. It is an extensive range of coral and adobe build-
dings in a flourishing village, and is one of the best organised establishments
in the Sandwich Islands. We have no nautical particulars of the northern
portions of Maui.
Lahaina lies on the S.W. side of West Maui. It was for a considerable
time the residence of the king. After Kamehameha had conquered the group
in 1795, the year after Vancouver's visit, he removed the seat of government
to Honolulu, Oahu; but his successor found this too troublesome a site from
the importunities and assumptions of the white residents and white visitors.
Lahaina was therefore selected as the most central position of the archipe-
lago. The first missionaries were planted here in May, 1823.
The town of Lahaina is built along the beach for a distance of three-
quarters of a mile; it is principally composed of grass houses, situated as
near the beach as possible; it has one principal street, with a few others
running at right angles. After the governor's (or king's) palace the fort is
the most prominent object; its form is quadrangular, the longest side facing
the sea; it is of little account, however, as a defence, serving chiefly to con-
fine unruly subjects and sailors in. The area within is about an acre, and
the walls are 20 feet high. According to the observations of the United
States' Exploring Expedition, it is in lat. 20° 51′ 50″, long. 156° 41' 0". The
tide here is irregular, being somewhat dependent on the winds; it runs to
the N.W. generally, sixteen hours out of the twenty-four.
The seminary of Lahainaluna is the most remarkable building to be seen
as the bay is approached. It stands on the side of the mountain behind the
town, and 2 miles from it. It was founded in 1831, for instructing school-
teachers, but its system has since then been changed, and it is not so effective.
An excellent chart of the Sandwich Islands was engraved on small pieces of
MAUI
843
copper taken from a wreck at this establishment, a singular production for
this remote spot.
Lahaina is in some points a preferable place to Honolulu for refreshment;
more order reigns here than in most places in the Pacific; and the absence
of foreigners and their attendant grog-shops, causes less temptation to be
thrown in the way of crews ashore. Provisions, especially potatoes, are
abundant.
Lahaina has been and still is a favourite recruiting place for the whale
ships, and consequently the products of the other islands are brought here,
and everything may be got here except taro. The fruits are excellent. There
are several European residents and traders. The island seems to be rising
as the beach is extending, having advanced at least 20 ft. since 1855.
Light.-A bright fixed light is shown on the beach, visible 6 miles off.
Lat. 20° 53′ N., long. 156° 35′ W.
Notwithstanding that the anchorage on this side of Maui is well sheltered,
Vancouver considered that the bottom was only a slight covering of sand
over a bed of hard coral. The lead does not discover this, but on anchoring
the deceitfulness of the bottom is manifest. The roadstead of Lahaina is
only an open one; the shores are bounded by a reef, with only one landing
for boats. The soundings decrease regularly to 5 fathoms close to the reef,
extending in general about one-fourth of a mile from the beach. The West
extremity of Maui forms, with the West point of the roadstead bearing N.
14° W. and S. 14° E., a league asunder, an excellent little bay. The North
point is formed by a round hill close to the water side.
The southern side of West Maui has a forbidding aspect; the shores, how
ever, are not so steep and rocky as elsewhere, and have generally a sandy
beach. There is a roadstead here called by Vancouver Patoa, which is re-
presented as good anchorage, and may be easily found by attending to the
following description :-The large bay, formed by the two peninsulas and
the sandy isthmus, has its western side formed by high rocky precipices, that
rise perpendicularly from the sea. To the westward of these precipices the
coast is chiefly composed of sandy beaches, and the mountains, at some dis-
tance from the shore, form two remarkable valleys, separated from each other
by a high rugged mountain, seemingly detached from the rest, and approach-
ing nearer to the beach than those to the right and left of it. The anchorage
at Patoa is abreast of the easternmost of these valleys, which appeared fruit-
ful and well cultivated.
The western side of this large bay (Kamalaea Bay) is formed by rocky
cliffs and precipices; its opposite shore is about 4 miles distant; the sound-
ings on the eastern side are regular, but very rocky. Nearly in the middle
of its western side is a village, called Mackerrey by Vancouver, off which
there is anchorage in 7 fathoms water, a little more than a quarter of a mile
off shore, bottom of sand and broken coral. It is only open to about two
844
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
points to the S.W., but there is not much wind from that quarter; one great
inconvenience attending the anchoring in any part of this bay is the violent.
squalls which blow over the isthmus. These gusts, or rather gales of wind,
blow constantly when the trade wind blows fresh at sea, and especially when
it is most from the northern quarter. At these times it prevents any com-
munication with the shore, and this is the more serious, as the holding ground
is treacherous.
Another anchoring place will be found near the S. W. point of East Maui,
a little to the southward of a remarkable round hill on a sandy beach, pro-
jecting its rocky base into the sea. From the appearance of its summit it
was called Volcano Hill, and lies N. 26° W. about a league from the South
point of Maui, and directly opposite the Island of Molokini. The soundings
are regular, from 7 to 15 and 25 fathoms. The beach appears convenient
for landing on, but there is no water.
MOLOKINI (or Morokini), or Morrotinnee, is a barren rock which lies be-
tween Tahaurawe and Maui. It is high, or it would be dangerous to ship-
ping. It is only visited by fishermen, who dry their nets on its barren sur-
face. It lies in the strait separating Kahoolawe from East Maui.
KAHULAUI (Kahoolawe, Tahaurawe, Tahoorowa, or Kadoolawe) lies off the
S.W. point of Maui, and from its shape and appearance seems as if it once
formed a part of that island, and had been detached by some convulsion. It
is low, and almost destitute of every kind of verdure or shrub, excepting
a species of coarse grass. There are
no evidences of active volcanic
agency.
It is 14 miles long and 5 miles wide. It is only inhabited at times by a
few poor fishermen, and was used as a place of exile. It is now chiefly use-
ful as a sheep pasture. The whole South part is covered with a light soil,
consisting of decomposed lava, and destitute of vegetation. On the North
side there is a better soil, capable in some places of vegetation. There are one
or two houses on the North end. Off the West point of the island, Cape
Kealaikahiki, is a detached shoal, seen by Cook in his discovery of the island,
February 24, 1779. It lies 1 miles off the point, and has 9 feet water on it.
Vessels may pass safely within 2 miles of the point, but it will be much better
not to approach within 3 miles. This shoal is remarkable as the only one
hidden from the navigator around the Sandwich Islands.
LANAI or Ranai lies to the West of West Maui, 20 miles to the N.W. of
Kahoolawe; the space between is called the Auau Channel. Lanai is a dome-
shaped island. It is higher than Kahulaui, but is neither so high nor
broken as any of the other islands. The greater portion of it is barren, and
the island in general suffers from the long droughts which frequently pre-
vail; the ravines and glens, notwithstanding, are filled with thickets of small
trees, which serve useful building purposes to the natives of Maui. The
sland, like the rest of the group, is volcanic; the soil is hollow, and by no
MOLOKAI.
845
means fertile; the shores abound with shell-fish, medusæ, and cuttle-fish.
The inhabitants are not numerous, about 400 in number. It is about 15
miles long and 6 miles broad. The country to the South is high and
craggy; it appears to have been frequently rent, large fissures being appa-
rent on its sides. The other parts of the island have a better aspect.
MOLOKAI or Morotoi lies to the N.W. of the preceding, and is of a
different figure. It is a long, irregular island, apparently formed by a chain
of volcanic mountains, 40 miles in length, and not more than 7 to 9 miles
broad. The mountains are nearly equal in elevation to those of Maui, and
are broken by numerous deep ravines and water-courses, the sides of which
are frequently clothed with verdure, and ornamented with shrubs and trees.
There is but little level land in Molokai, and consequently but few plan-
tations; several spots, however, are fertile, and repay the toils of their cul-
tivators.
One-third of the island to the West is a barren waste, and has but few
inhabitants. The remainder, to the East, is almost one entire mountain,
rising gradually from the South to the height of 2,500 feet; while to the
North it is almost perpendicular. On the South side there is a narrow strip
of land, not exceeding one-fourth of a mile wide, the soil of which is very
rich, and which contains the greater part of the population. The soil here,
however, is too dry for cultivation, which is carried on in the uplands. The
people are very poor, and ill-provided with necessaries. In 1832 their num-
ber was 6,000; in 1840 only 5,000, and this was reduced to 2,300 in 1866;
at the first named period it was first occupied as a missionary station.
There are several small harbours within the reef on the South side, at
Kaluaaha, the missionary station, which are capable of sheltering vessels
of from 60 to 80 tons.
Sir Edward Belcher, R.N., says :-Passing the East end of Maui, and
coming suddenly on Molokai, the view is very singular; four exactly parallel
outlines of picturesque and lofty cliffs appear almost a visual deception, or
the effect of quadruple refraction; but on advancing it will prove to be a
reality; height about 400 feet, and varying but slightly from the perpen-
dicular. Here, also, as on Maui, several very pretty but loftier cascades
embellish the scenery, which attired in nature's clothing only, is rich in
colours.
The East point of the island is called Halawa Point; and half a league
South of it is a small, barren, rocky islet, called Moduenete; and from this
point the shores of the island lie S. 53° W. Off the N.W. end of the island
a small bay was observed by Cook; but it was found by Vancouver that the
space indicated was nearly a straight shore, composed alternately of rugged
rocks and sandy beaches. He anchored in 19 fathoms, within about a mile
of the breakers, on a fine sandy bottom; the West point of the island bore
South by compass, distant 4 miles, and the N.W. point N. 26° E. about the
846
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
same distance. This was as close as safety would allow, but it is entirely ex-
posed to the North and N.W. winds, which frequently blow with great vio-
lence, and to the very heavy roll of the sea.
OAHU, or Woahoo, the next island in succession, may be looked on as the
principal of the group, as regards maritime affairs, inasmuch as it contains
the port chiefly frequented by the shipping of the North Pacific. The island
is 40 miles long by about 20 miles broad. Like the rest of the islands it is
of volcanic formation; Captain Cook only saw the North or windward side,
and, judging from this alone, it appeared to him to be by far the finest island
of the group. Nothing could exceed the verdure of the hills, the variety of
wood and lawn, and rich cultivated valleys, which the whole face of the
country displayed. A different conclusion was arrived at by Captain Wilkes,
who came first upon the lee side. The appearance of Oahu is by no means
inviting; it has a greater resemblance to the desert coast of Peru than any
other of the Polynesian islands we had visited, and has as little appearance
of cultivation. The country, at first sight, would be termed barren and rocky.
There could not be a better example of perfectly opposite characters applied
to the same place than this, nor a better evidence of the great variation in
climate which may occur within a very short distance.
But whatever may
be said of the unpromising appearance of its southern side, there is no doubt
but that it is the garden of the Sandwich Islands.
The East end of the island is called Cape Makapua. There are numerous
caves here, situated in a bluff of 300 feet elevation, and the mouths of them
are at about two-thirds the height. They have been, and are still some-
times used as burial-places. They are the effect of volcanic action. At 12
miles from this point is the peninsula of Mokapu, which forms the harbour of
Waialai. The entrance of this has only 9 feet water, a depth only fitting for
the island vessels. Opposite to it inland is Kaneote, the mission station for
the North side of the island, in the district of Pali Kulau. This district con-
tains about 4,500 inhabitants, and the productions are similar to the island
generally. Sugar and coffee are beginning to be raised. There is a belt of
arable land extending along this district, which increases in breadth to the
westward. This narrow strip of land, varying from half a mile to 2 miles in
width towards the North end, is called the Kulauloa district. It is bounded
by the mountain chain of Konohaunui. This belt is only a few feet above
the sea.
From its position on the island it receives abundance of rain for
agricultural purposes. There are several small streams, which will drive the
machinery for sugar-mills. The scenery of this part is most enchanting for
beauty, boldness, and variety; stupendous precipices, rising some 2,000 or
3,000 feet, with numerous small streams gushing down their sides.
The district of Waialua stretches from the most westerly Cape of Oahu,
called Kaena, to Waimea, in the district of Kulauloa, on the N.E., and to
Waianae, on the S.W., a distance along the coast of above 20 miles. With-

of Honululu, Pahu, Sandwich Islands.
846
OAHU.
847
in this district are a few bays for vessels not exceeding 150 tons burthen; the
best of these is Kawailoa. Those to the N.E. are Waimea, Haula, Kakaua,
Moluilui, and Makua. Part of this district produces abundantly, being cul-
tivated by irrigation. Five considerable streams water it from the Kona-
haunui range, passing down the fertile valleys.
As just stated, the sugar-cane has been increasingly cultivated.
lowing notes were made on a visit to them in 1865 :
The fol-
Passing by the two plantations in Nuuanu Valley, located within sight of
Honolulu, we reached the pali (or cliff) over a good dry road, which here is
seldom found in winter, and encountering a cool bracing North wind, which
came rushing through the narrow gap and down the valley as if it had been
caged up an hour or two by the encircling mountains. What a scene opens
here to the traveller, as he commences the descent of the precipice-a plain
25 miles long, intersected with ridges of low hills, and hemmed in on the
mauka side by bold palisades, in some places two thousand feet perpen-
dicular.
Once down the pali, the traveller finds himself in Koolau, which embraces
all the windward side of this island, East of the summit ridge, and extending
from Waimanalo at the South to Waimea at the North, a track about fifty
miles in length, and varying from 1 to 5 miles in width. All this district of
Koolau is exposed to frequent showers, and is intersected with numerous
small streams—all which tend to make it valuable for agriculture and pas-
turage.
Between the foot of the pali and the Protestant church at Kaneohe lies the
sugar estate of the Queen Dowager Kalama, where Mr. Robert Wakeman
has been engaged for some years in breaking up the land, planting and cul-
tivating cane. About two hundred acres were planted, in various stages of
growth.
Just beyond Kaneohe is a tract of three thousand acres, called Heeia,
where the Catholic church is located, which is probably well calculated for a
sugar plantation; at least cane grows freely there.
Beyond is the Kaalaea plantation, extending from the sea back to the cen-
tral mountain range. The estate comprises some two thousand acres, eight
hundred acres of it being suitable for cane. About two hundred acres are al-
ready planted.
Three or four miles beyond Kaalaea, we come to the Kuoloa estate, now
called the "Oahu Plantation." Including Kaawa, it consists of about four
thousand acres.
Like much of the land on this side of Oahu, the cane fields here consist of
rich bottom-land, lying just above the level of high tide. So near the sur-
face is the water, that the roots of the cane find moisture all the year round,
reducing the risk of drought very much. The soil, like that of Lahaina,
848
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Waikapu, and Wailuku, receives its deposits of rich alluvium from the
mountains in the rear.
Waimea or Whymea Bay, as Captain King calls it, was visited by the
Resolution and Discovery in February, 1779; they anchored in 13 fathoms,
sandy bottom, the extreme points of the bay bearing S.W. by W. W. and
N.E. by E. & E., off the mouth of a fine river, running through a deep val-
ley. Watering here, however, could not be well effected on account of a
reef which stretches along shore to the distance of half a mile.
At Kawailoa the coast forms a small bay, and has a dreary aspect on first
landing. The soil is sandy and poor, and the people have a squalid and
miserable appearance, but at a short distance inland a great and pleasing
change is seen. It was near here that Mr. Gooch, the astronomer to
Vancouver's expedition, and Lieutenant Hergest, were killed by the na-
tives.
Kaena Point is the western cape of Oahu and the southern limit of Wai-
mea Bay. From it the western coast of Oahu trends S. 25° E. 20 miles, to
the S.W. point, or Waimanolo Point. It is composed principally of steep,
craggy mountains, some descending abruptly into the sea, others terminat-
ing at a small distance from it, whence a low border of land extends to the
sea shore, formed by sandy beaches, chiefly bounded by rocks, over which
the surf beats with great violence. Vancouver says, nearly in the middle of
this side of the island is the only village we had seen westward of Opooroah
(the Pearl lagoon). In its neighbourhood the bases of the mountains retire
farther from the shore, and a narrow fertile valley winds through the hills.
The shore here forms a small sandy bay. On its South side, between two
high rocky precipices, in a grove of cocoa-nut and other trees, stands the vil-
lage; and in the centre of the bay, about a mile to the North of the
village, is a high rock, remarkable for its projecting from a sandy beach.
At a distance it appears to be detached from the land. Between this and
the high rocky point to the South of the village is a small bank of sound-
ings, stretching some distance into the sea. The South side of this bank has
irregular rocky soundings, from 25 to 8 fathoms; to the North of it the edge
is very abrupt.
The district of Ewa occupies the S.W. portion of the island, extending
eastward to within 7 miles of Honolulu, and 20 miles along the sea-shore.
Unlike others on this side of the island, it is well watered by copious and ex-
cellent springs, the streams from which are sufficient for working sugar-mills.
This is the best part of Oahu for raising cattle and sheep, which are seen
here in greater numbers than elsewhere.
The Pearl Loch, or Pearl River Harbour, lies on the South side of the
island; the entrance being about 8 miles East of the S.W. point. It is an
extensive inlet of the sea, into which the River Ewa empties itself.
rives its name from the fact of the pearl-oyster being found in it.
It de-
It is not
HONOLULU.
met with elsewhere in the Sandwich Islands.
849
The inlet has somewhat the
appearance of a lagoon that has been partially filled up by alluvial deposits.
It affords abundance of excellent fish. The depth of water in the mouth is
only 15 feet; but after passing this coral bar, which is 400 feet wide, the
depth of water becomes ample for large ships, and the basin is sufficiently
extensive to accommodate any number. If the bar were partially removed,
which might be effected, it would afford the best and most capacious harbour
in the Pacific. At present there is little necessity for this, as the neighbour-
ing port of Honolulu is ample for all the present requirements.
HONOLULU.—This is the capital and principal port of the kingdom of
Hawaii, and indeed of this part of the Pacific Ocean. It is not very many
years since it was first frequented by Europeans, but Vancouver passed it
without much notice, in March, 1793, such is its apparent insignificance from
the entrance. He was afterwards informed by Mr. Brown, of the ship But-
terworth, of its excellence. His tender, the Jackall, first entered it in
1794. Mr. Brown gave it the name of Fair Haven. Vancouver calls it
Honoonoono.
Since the periods above named it has made a wonderful change in circum-
stances, and few places in the world now have such a variety of population
and manners as is to be seen here.
As the whaling fleet became more numerous, wealth was gradually brought
here, as it was the principal resort of the ships that came to refit. The
population gradually increased, and instead of a town of grass huts, with
only one house that had a chimney in 1827, when Captain Beechey came.
here, it is now a large town of 15,000 inhabitants. The situation being
good it was eventually established as the capital of the Hawaiian kingdom,
the residence of the consuls of foreign courts, and the chief port in the best
channel of intercourse between the eastern coasts of the old, and the western
coasts of the new, world. The central part of the city now consists of regu-
larly laid out streets, on either side of which stand houses and warehouses
constructed after the European style, generally painted, and frequently placed
within spacious enclosures with gardens, while its outer portions are still
chiefly composed of grass huts inhabited by the natives. Besides these, there
are the king's palace, a fort, numerous churches and chapels, public offices,
a custom-house and a sailors' home; also ample wharves, foundries, work-
shops, and ship-yards to meet any emergency that may arise, even to making
a steam-ship if ordered. It has a fine capacious harbour, formed by the
coral reef, capable of accommodating 200 vessels at a time, and is perfectly
safe in all weathers.
The aspect of the country around Honolulu, as seen from the roads, is
barren; the plain on which the town stands is destitute of verdure. This
plain extends both East and West from the town, while behind it the land
rises gradually towards the Nuuanu valley. Several crater-shaped hills are
North Pacific.
3 I
850
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
in sight, one of which, called by the foreign residents the Punch Bowl, stands
out in bold relief on one side of the valley.
The valley of Nuuanu is formed by a break in the central volcanic ridges
of Oahu; it ascends gradually from behind the town, and is about 7 miles
long by half a mile wide at its entrance. It contracts until it reaches the
northern side of the ridge, when it suddenly terminates in a deep precipice
of 1,100 feet, called the Pali. Here the trade-wind rushes violently through
between two high peaks above 1,500 feet in height, while their tops con-
dense the clouds, whose waters are descending constantly in small silver
rills, that leap from rock to rock on all sides, unite in the middle of the val-
ley, and form a large brook, which is again distributed by the natives to give
fertility and luxuriance to the vale below.
One of the most conspicuous points on the South side of Oahu is the Lealu
or Diamond Hill. It lies about 4 miles to the East of Honolulu, and
forms a very picturesque object from the harbour. It is an extinct vol-
canic crater, the largest coast crater on the island, and has its latter name
from the circumstance of bright crystals being found on its sides resembling
the diamond.
The mouth of the harbour is formed by an inlet through a coral reef, pos-
sibly kept open by the fresh-water stream flowing through the town; this
has been supposed to be filling up the harbour and its entrance with alluvial
deposit, as a considerable diminution in the depth is observed since the ear-
lier explorations. This is more probably owing to an entire upheaving of
the coast, as is evidenced elsewhere in the diminution of water on rocky
shelves off the coast and the marks on the coast itself. It is true that this
might be remedied without great trouble, by deepening the channel or by
doing the same to the more extensive harbour of the pearl lagoons to the
westward. But this is at present premature to speculate on; it suffices now
for all shipping purposes.
Lights. In 1869 two lights were established here, which by night will
greatly facilitate the entrance. The following is the official announcement
and the brief directions in connection therewith.
A light is exhibited from the lighthouse erected on the inner edge of the
western reef, bounding the entrance of the channel into Honolulu harbour.
The light is elevated 26 feet above the sea, visible from between the
bearings East round by North to N.W. by W., and in clear weather should
be seen from a distance of 9 miles. The illuminating apparatus is dioptric
or by lenses, of the fourth order.
From the lighthouse the Spar or Fairway buoy bears S. by W. 6 cables,
Diamond point S.E. by E., Barbers point W. S., and the eastern corner of
the Custom-house N. by E. E. Near to this corner of the Custom-house,
from a tower, a green light is exhibited, elevated 28 feet above the sea, and
in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 5 miles.
HONOLULU HARBOUR.
851
To enter the harbour by night, bring the two lights in a line, and keep
them so until within a cable of the lighthouse on the reef, then steer to the
eastward, to avoid the end of the spit on which the lighthouse is built
towards the East end of the new wharf, and when half-way between the
light on the reef and the new wharf, steer N. W to the anchorage inside.
The following directions for the outer anchorage are by Mr. H. Thompson,
master of H.M.S. Talbot, in January, 1845:—"Just without the reef, and
at a short distance to the eastward of the entrance to the harbour, there is a
space of ground which affords a fair anchorage in from 12 to 30 fathoms
water, during the period that the N.E. winds blow steadily, viz., March to
October, the remaining months being more subject to irregular winds. Those
most feared are from the southward, which frequently, during the irregular
season, blow very strong, and at the same time send in a heavy swell; there-
fore vessels lying there should put to sea immediately on the appearance of
wind from that quarter.
"The holding-ground is indifferent, consisting of hard sand and coral, and
the surface very uneven. The marks for the best anchorage are as follows,
viz. the flagstaff of Fort Honolulu, N. by E.; the summit of a round-
topped hill just visible over the inner part of the neck of land which con-
nects Diamond Hill with the other part of the island, bearing about E. by N.
This hill is the only one visible in that direction.
The Harbour of Honolulu has a bar, with only 21 feet water upon it at low
water, and the channel is so narrow and intricate that no stranger should
attempt it. The natives understand the signal for a pilot, and will come off
if the weather is not too boisterous. Captain Beechey considered the best
anchorage outside to be in about 16 fathoms water; the Punch Bowl bearing
N.N.E. † E., and the highest part of Diamond Point, E. by S. 4 S. A bell
buoy now marks the place.
Should it be necessary to enter the harbour, the morning is the best time,
as there are then leading winds through the passage; but after the trade-
wind has set in it cannot be entered. It is necessary to adopt the precaution
of having boats ready to tow or run out lines to the reefs.
The bar was deepened when there was a prospect of the line of steamers
between Panama and China being established, as then Honolulu was to be
made a calling place. The same with a line from San Francisco to Yoko-
hama. The wharf was much improved and extended, so that vessels of any
tonnage may lay alongside and coal there. The depth over the bar at low
water was stated to be 21 feet, and at full tide 23 to 24 feet, and that, ex-
cepting in the event of southerly storms, which seldom occur, there can be
no difficulty in heavy ships entering or leaving at any ordinary half-tides.
But it has been officially stated that steamers should not draw more than 18
or 19 feet water to be sure of entering at all times. Besides the conspicuous
bell buoy at the outer anchorage, the channel and bar have been buoyed.
312
852
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
The passage through the reef into the harbour, though well buoyed
on both sides, is dangerous, and should not be attempted, even if the
wind be fair, without a thorough knowledge of the port. From the outer
anchorage run along shore in nothing less than 11 fathoms, and the lead-
ing marks over the bar are the northernmost black buoy (the third from
the entrance on the starboard side of the channel) in line with the southern-
most red buoy; when over the bar, stand on in the line of buoys,—the depth
in the channel being from 5 to 6 fathoms. There is always a heavy swell
on the bar with southerly winds, making it dangerous. Any one unused to
the port should always take a pilot. The harbour affords accommodation
for as many as 200 vessels at a time.
Much of the coral banks is exposed at low water. In consequence of the
sea that rolls over the reef, and breaks in 4 or 5 fathoms water, boats must
follow the same channel as large ships, or in all probability they will be run
on the reefs, or be upset.
There are several pilots always ready to conduct vessels into and out of the
harbour; and there are also steam-tugs for towage.
Tides.-It is high water, at full and change, at 4h; the rise and fall being
2 feet at springs, and 1 foot to 1 foot 6 inches at neaps; but the tides here
are much affected by the winds, gales (whether from North or South) bring-
ing high tides, and a rise of 3 feet. Sometimes the rise is remarkably low,
and without any apparent cause; it has been as little as 6 inches.
Supplies of every kind may be obtained here; and excellent water is
carried down from Nuuanu Valley, in iron pipes, to supply the city and the
shipping.
The only place remaining to be noticed as an anchorage is Waikiki, which
is 8 or 10 miles to the eastward of Honolulu. Between these two places
there is a vast collection of salt pits, the produce of which is exported to all
the countries bordering on the North Pacific. There is anchorage off the
village. Whyteete Bay, as Vancouver calls it, is formed by the land falling
a little back round the S.E. point of Oahu, and although open above half the
compass in the southern quarters, was considered by him to be the best an-
choring place in the island, but he did not know of Honolulu.
KAUAI is called Atooi in Cook's voyage, Atowai in Vancouver's, and
Atour by a third. The name is composed of two words-a Tauai, literally
and Tauai. The meaning of the word tauai is, to light upon, or to dry in
the sun; and the name, according to the late king, was derived from the
long droughts which sometimes prevailed, or the large pieces of timber
occasionally washed on its shores (Ellis). This island is interesting as being
the first land of the group visited by Cook on their discovery. "On Sunday,
January 18, 1778, at daybreak, an island (Oahu) made its appearance, and
soon after we saw more land bearing North, and entirely detached from the
former." On the 19th he anchored in Waimea Bay, on the South side of
KAUAI.
853
Kauai, and was received by the astonished natives with profound humility
and reverence, a circumstance which has since been accounted for as stated
in our introductory observations.
The island is 28 miles long, and about 20 miles broad. Like the rest of
the archipelago, it is of volcanic formation. On the N.E. and N. W. sides it
is broken and rugged, but to the South it is more even. The hills here rise
with a gradual slope, and at some distance from the shore are covered with
wood. This is one of the best cultivated of the islands, and even when
first discovered the plantations of the natives were managed with industry
and neatness. The highest point of the island is called Wailioli, and was
estimated by Captain Wilkes at 6,000 feet; it is said that there is a crater
on its summit, and that the natives ascend it to gain a view of Oahu, 100
miles distant.
The two extremities of the eastern end of the island lie N. 14° E. and S.
14° W. 9 miles from each other, and are formed by low land. The former
is a rounding point, projecting into the ocean from a very remarkable forked
hill, that is, in a great measure, detached from the rest of the connected
mountains of the island. The latter extends from a range of low hills that
stretch along the coast at a small distance from the beach. The country
inland here is most enchanting and rich. About a league to the South of
the southern extremity lies the S.E., or Koloa Point, of the island, formed by
a bold, bluff, barren, high, rocky headland, falling perpendicularly into the
sea. Between this and the low point is a small cove (Puna Cove) accessible
to boats only. This portion appears to be well watered. A heavy sea rolls
in on this part of the coast. There are some silk (mulberry) and sugar
plantations belonging to Europeans.
A few miles to the westward of Koloa, and about 6 miles to the south-
eastward of Waimea is the celebrated valley of Hanapepe, which has appa-
rently been formed by volcanic action. At its entrance it is about half a mile
wide, and decreases in width as it approaches the mountains. At its head is
a waterfall.
The coast must now be approached with great caution, because opposite
Kona Peak, on the West side of the entrance to Hanapepe Valley, a coral
reef commences, and here stretches some distance seaward; thence it trends
along the S.W. shores of the island as far as Point Mana or Kolo,-the
westernmost point of Kauai.
Waimea Bay, on the South side, is the best anchoring place on the island,
except in the months of January and February, when the trade-winds are
interrupted, and the wind blows strongly from the S.W., directly on shore.
At about a mile West of Waimea is the spot where Cook's boat first landed
on the discovery of the Sandwich Islands. Cook says:--The road, or an-
choring place, which we occupied, is on the S.W. side of the island, about
6 miles from the West end, before a village, which has the name of Wymoa.
854
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
As far as we sounded, we found that the bank has a fine grey sand at the
bottom, and is free from rocks, except a little to the eastward of the village,
where there spits out a shoal, on which are some rocks and breakers, but
they are not far from the shore. This road would be entirely sheltered from
the trade-wind, if the height of the land over which it blows did not alter
its direction, and make it follow that of the coast; so that it blows at N.E.
on one side of the island, and E.S.E. or S.E. on the other, falling obliquely
on the shore. Thus the road, though situated on the lee side of the island,
is a little exposed to the trade-wind; but notwithstanding this defect, it is
far from being a bad station, and much superior to those which necessity
obliges ships daily to use in regions where the winds are more variable and
more boisterous. Captain King adds that in running down to the road
from the S.E. point of the island he saw the appearance of shoal water in
several places at a considerable distance from the land; and when he was
about 2 miles to the eastward of the anchoring place, and 2 or 3 miles from
the shore, he got into 4 fathoms water, although the soundings had been
usually 7 or 8 fathoms. The whole distance between Koloa and Waimea
consists of a series of sunburnt hills and barren plains, sloping gradually to
the shore from the mountains, and now and then intersected by ravines or
gulches. The village takes its name from a river which, after a course of
about 15 miles, falls into the sea at the place. Boats may ascend it for
about three-quarters of a mile, and this is the only water that is not brackish.
At the village is a stone fort, executed by a Russian trader from the North,
but he was expelled by the authorities.
The coast to the westward of Waimea consists of a sandy plain, from one-
fourth to a mile wide, and 150 feet above the sea, whence it rises gradually
to the mountains. It has a sunburnt appearance, and is destitute of trees.
On the low grounds the cocoa-nut tree thrives, and the sea-coast is consi-
dered the best ground for fishing, and the manufacture of salt might be ex-
tensively carried on.
Point Mana is the West point of the island; it is in lat. 22° 4′, and off it
a reef of rocks extends about half a mile from shore. Near this the country
assumes a very different aspect; from hence to Flanalai Bay the coast has
a very rugged and romantic appearance, rising suddenly to lofty, abrupt
cliffs, that jut out into a variety of steep, rugged, rocky points, apparently
destitute both of soil and verdure, but terminating nearly in uniform sum-
mits, on which, as in the valleys, are patches of lively green, producing a
singular effect.
Hanalae Bay lies on the North side of the island; Captain Wilkes calls
it Halelea, signifying the land or place of rainbows, a name arising from the
frequent rains, which clothe the country in perpetual green. The village is
at the head of the bay.
Hanalae, besides bullocks (noble animals, and meat as fine as in Eng-
NIIHAU.
855
land), and vegetables of the finest quality, furnishes fruits, poultry, turkeys,
&c., cheap and in abundance. Water can be filled in the boats, by sending
them into the river.-(Belcher, vol. i. p. 61.)
In August the anchorage is safe, but when the N.W. gales blow, a very
heavy sea must tumble into the bay. Captain Sir E. Belcher was informed
that a Russian store-ship rode out the season in spite of everything. The
anchorage is pretty well covered by a spit, over which there are about 9 ft. ;
but there is not sufficient space in bad weather for more than three vessels,
although in the fine season the bay is spacious.
The landing is within the mouth of a small river, which carries, for a
considerable distance up, from one to three-quarters of a fathom, into fresh
water, and is further navigable for boats or canoes (drawing 3 feet) several
miles.
The scenery is beautiful, and it is surprising that such a favourable spot
should so long have been overlooked. The consul possesses a tract of land,
on which his tenant (Kellett, an Englishman) feeds cattle, makes butter and
cheese, and farms to great advantage. I am certain that our men derived
more nourishment from the cattle we embarked there than from any pre-
vious diet, and, contrary to the general feeling, preferred it to salt, regretting
its loss. I would therefore strongly advise ships of war to sacrifice much to
secure these advantages.-(Sir Edward Belcher.)
NIIHAU (Oneeow or Onecheow) lies 16 miles S.W. of Kaui, the channel
between being called the Kaulaka Passage. The island is about 18 miles
long, and 8 miles broad. The eastern side is rocky and unfit for cultivation,
nor is there any anchorage on it.
Niihau was famous for its yams, fruit, and mats, and was the property of
the king, but was purchased by Mr. Sinclair, a New Zealand settler from
the Canterbury district, who removed here with his family, and uses the
island exclusively as a sheep-walk. In 1867, nearly half a million of lbs.
of wool were exported, and of hides 304,095 in number were sent from the
archipelago.
The natives were a darker race than those on Oahu, and reminded Capt.
Beechey strongly of those on Bow Island. They lived almost entirely on
the western shore, and were very poor. It is comparatively low, and with
the exception of fruit trees, which are carefully cultivated, it is destitute of
wood. The soil is too dry to produce taro, but on that account it is well
adapted to the growth of yams, &c., which are very excellent, and of an
enormous size.
Yam Bay. The eastern side of Niihau is rocky, and affords neither
shelter nor anchorage. On the western side are some small bays or road-
steads, in which vessels may stop with proper precautions. Vancouver an-
chored off the South point of the island in 14 fathoms, about three-quarters
of a mile off shore, bottom soft, sandy, regular, and good, the S.E. point
856
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
of the island bearing S. 77° E., the West point N. 48° W., and Kaula
Island S. 58° W. He afterwards anchored in Yam Bay in 18 fathoms, with
the N.W. point bearing N. 25° W. 1 mile off, the West point S. 15° E.,
and Kaula S. 43° W.; but this position, though the general rendezvous for
ships, was a much worse position than the former one.
Cook anchored westward of the S.W. point during a strong easterly gale,
one anchor in 20, the other in 26 fathoms, the South point bearing E.S.E.,
and the bluff head to the South of the North point of the road N.E. by N.
Admiral Beechey says:--There is but one place in this bay, the same in
which Vancouver anchored, on the western side, where the boat of a man-
of-war can effect a landing with safety when the sea sets into the bay, which
is of very common occurrence; this is on its northern shore, behind a
small reef of rocks that lies a little way off the beach; and even here it
is necessary to guard against sunken rocks; off the western point these
breakers extend 1 mile. The soundings in the bay are regular, upon a
sandy bottom, and with the wind from the eastward good anchorage, if
required, will be found; but it would not be advisable to bring up under
any other circumstance.
Lehua or Orechova Island, off the North end of Niihau, is a rugged, naked,
barren rock, to all appearance destitute of soil, and without any signs of
habitableness. It is of very small extent, and is separated from the larger
island by a channel about a mile in breadth, in which the depth appeared to
be very irregular, and is therefore impracticable.
KAULA or Tahoora lies 4 or 5 leagues from the S.E. end of Niihau, in a
S. 69° W. direction. It is a small, elevated island, only inhabited by flocks
of birds, for whose eggs it is visited occasionally.*
BIRD ISLAND or Nihoa is also considered as a member of the Hawaiian
archipelago. It lies 39 leagues N. 51° W. from Niihau; was discovered,
April 13, 1789, by Captain Douglas, of the Iphigenia, who gave the name to
it. It had not been previously known to the inhabitants of the Sandwich
Islands, who afterwards called it Modu-manu, which also means Bird Island.
It is merely a barren rock, of volcanic origin; it is bold all round, and is
the resort of numerous flocks of sea-birds. Capt. Harvey, R.N., made a
plan of it, on a visit to it in H.M.S. Havana, Dec. 1856. The island was
found to be about three-quarters of a mile long, by one-third of a mile
broad, and 880 feet high, the North side being a perfect precipice; but on
the South side there is a little bay where landing has been made in the
summer season. The master went as close as the boat could safely approach,
and pulled along the island to observe the practicability of a footing being
* Cook heard of a small, low, uninhabited island called Tammatapappa, Modoo-papappa,
Komodoopappa (i.e., flat island), about five hours' sail from Tahoora. It was said to be
visited for the purpose of catching turtle and sea-fowl, but it has never been seen.
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N. 857
obtained in more moderate weather. He found within 600 yards there were
soundings in 15 fathoms; could only see one spot-a large boulder beach of
about 200 feet in extent-where it appeared possible in the finest weather to
land. The men-of-war birds came round the boat in some numbers, and
were troublesome; no seals, sea-lions, or animals of any description were
observed, nor any appearance of guano. From the formation of the rock
and the large amount of heavy rain that falls in its vicinity, it is not possi-
ble that any quantity could accumulate; nor were birds seen in such quan-
tities as to warrant the expectation.
The surveying schooner Fenimore Cooper passed within a mile of this island,
and established its position by three good sets of sights. It was found to be
half a mile long East and West, by a quarter of a mile in width, with a peak
at each extremity, the eastern one of which was made out to be 534 ft. high.
Captain Patty, of the schooner Maunakawai, thinks landing practicable,
although very difficult, at a small spur of sandy beach on the South side,
where he also found a small drain of fresh water; and saw a few seal and
plenty of birds.
Anchorage is from one-quarter of a mile to 2 miles off the
South side, in from 7 to 17 fathoms water.
This concludes the description of the islands composing the Hawaiian
Archipelago. In the subsequent paragraphs we shall include all the islands
to the northward of lat. 20°, some of which lie to the eastward of the Sand-
wich Islands.
DETACHED ISLANDS AND SHOALS TO THE NORTH OF
LAT. 20° N.
The north-eastern part of the North Pacific is singularly free from isolated
reefs or lonely islands, or even of announcements of islands or vigias. On
the contrary, the south-western part abounds with lurking dangers, coral
reefs and islands, and these have been multiplied to a very large extent by
the vague notices derived from older authors, whose positions claim but
little consideration, or from the still more vague accounts given by whalers,
a class of ships whose estimate of position is of the loosest character.
Generally keeping no proper dead reckoning, drifted in all directions by
unheeded currents, very long out of sight of land in pursuit of their prey,
they have no means of giving a correct longitude or even latitude, and the
great similarity which exists among most of the coral reefs and islands,
renders their recognition when uninhabited very difficult. In consequence
of this the chart is apparently bestrewed with dangers, which it is certain do
not exist in the numbers specified, but of which we have no means of de-
ciding as to their merits.
858
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
•
LOS ALIJOS, or Farallones Alijos, have been alluded to on page 145.
As there stated, they lie off the southern portion of the Californian peninsula.
It is a dangerous reef, composed of four principal rocks, which in nearing
them show themselves successively. The two first, much higher than the
two latter, then appear alone. The highest is 98 feet, the lowest 56 feet
high. They have so much the appearance of ships under sail, that such an
error, easily made at night, would expose a vessel to the greatest dangers.
The name of these rocks, first discovered in 1791 by Captain Marquina, in
coming from the Philippines, and not again reported until Admiral Du
Petit Thouars' examination, is expressive of their dangerous character—
"rocks which land a ship's cargo." Latitude 24° 57′ 25″, long. 115° 45′
20" W.
GUADALUPE ISLAND lies off the northern part of the peninsula of
Lower California. It is high, with bluff shores on the North and West
sides, and may be seen from the mast-head, in clear weather, at the distance
of 20 leagues.
It is about 15 miles long by 5 miles broad, and is very lofty in the interior,
a chain of hills extending through the whole length of the island. The
highest of these hills is over 2,000 feet high, and one near the North point
of the island is estimated to be even 3,412 feet in elevation. The island can
be seen at a distance of about 60 miles, and will appear, when bearing either
East or West, lower at its southern extremity than at its northern.
Off the South end of the island are two rocky islets at some distance from
the shore, the outermost of which is 500 ft. high. The shores are in general
bold, but have not been closely examined; although it is said that a small
cove exists on the S.E. shore, which is formed by some rocky islets, and
contains the only anchorage in the island, the riding being in 7 fathoms, and
the shelter from all winds except those between S.E. and E.N.E.
From unerring indications, there is no doubt that it has been once volca-
nic; it is very barren on its South end, but in the northern part there are
several fertile valleys, and the mountains contain vegetation. Wood and
water may be obtained here from a small cove on the N.E. side of the
island, and goats' flesh may be had for the trouble of shooting the animal.
The shores are free from dangers one-fourth of a mile from the island. The
only anchorage is on the S.E. side, in a small cove, formed by a few rocky
islets, which lie off in that direction. Here vessels may anchor in 7 fathoms
water, sheltered from all winds, excepting from S.E. to E.N.E., which sel-
dom blow here, as before stated.
This island was generally made by the Spaniards when bound to the
southward from Monterey, or from their other northern establishments; in
which route they passed to the westward, out of sight of those islands that
REED ROCKS.
859
form the canal of Sta. Barbara, for the advantage of continuing in the
strength of the N.W. winds; and thus they reached the Island of Guada-
lupe, from whence they steered a course for Cape San Lucas. The North
point is in lat. 29° 10' 50" N., long. 118° 18' 30" W.*
Andrews Island, in lat. 24° 30′ N., long. 131° 20′ W., was seen by the
barque Dragon. Her captain describes it as low, but visible 10 miles off.
This is all that is known of it, but it seems circumstantial.†
REED ROCKS.-It is stated that Mr. Reed, master of the brig Emma, on
her route from Tahiti to San Francisco, discovered, October 8 (1850 ?), two
rocks, lying N.E. and S.W., one 150 fathoms long and 66 wide, the other
about 100 fathoms long and 38 wide; 5 fathoms were got on one part and 3
fathoms alongside the rock. It was thought that the sea would break on it
* Shelvocks Island? Sir Edward Belcher says:- "On December 11, 1837, passed close
to Guadalupe, and then explored a degree on the parallel where an island had lately been
reported, to fall into the parallel of Shelvoes, Shelvocks, Shalers, or Shovel Island; steering
easterly to Cape San Lucas, until I had sufficiently determined its non-existence within 30
miles East or West of its assigned position. The Venus also went over the same ground on
nearly the same errand, and with like success.
Legarde Rock, said to have been seen by the French commander of that name, in the
Jean Pierre, September, 1868, in lat. 31° 12′ 15″ N., long. 125° 0′ W., showing as three
points or peaks, 25 or 30 feet high, is most improbable in this great highway.
† Henderson Island, marked at 160 miles East of this, is probably intended for the island
in South latitude. In addition to this the following may be noticed here East of Hawaii :
New Island, lat. 28° 25′ N., long. 133° 0′ W. from whaler report.
Gaspar Rock, lat. 26° 30′ N., long. 131° 0 W., a whaler report, is another disproved dan-
ger near this.
Cooper's Island or Breakers, in lat. 25° 48′ N., long. 131° 26′ W., or in 25° 30′ N., long.
133° 0′ W. This position was sought over, without success, by the U.S. Exploring Ex-
pedition.
Capper (whaler report) or Copper Island (China Mail), in lat. 20° 6' N., long. 131° 54′ W.,
and also in East longitude, and Copper Island lat. 20° 26′ N., long. 130° 54′ W., and also in
similar East longitude, may be repetitions of the same report.
Maria Laxara, lat. 27° 47' N., long. 139° 25′ W.; but this, besides several other positions
near it, has been placed in longitude 144° 30′ W., and 156° W. It is manifest, therefore,
that nothing can be determined about it.
Barneys Rock, a whaler report, lat. 22° 0' N., long. 142° 0′ W.
Island, in 21° 0' N., long. 149° 30′ W.
Philadelphia Island, a whaler report, lat. 29° 4' N., long. 155° 46′ W. It is marked as
Dona Maria Laxara on some old charts; but one of the ships of the U.S. Exploring Expe-
dition passed over the site. Arabia Shoal is near it.
Palmer Reef is also improbable. It was said to have been seen in the Kingfisher, in lat.
44° 23′ N., long. 152° 53′ W., but it is also on the track of the U.S. Exploring Expedition,
July 7th, 1841.
860
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
in heavy weather. Lat. 37° 24' N., long. 137° 27′ W. They have been
alluded to in a note on page 199.
The U.S. sloop-of-war Falmouth saw rocks in the same position in 1851.
Captain Redfield, of the whaler Susan Abigail, in 1856 discovered, according
to observations which he calls excellent, 11 miles more to the northward,
some rocks, with about 10 feet of water over them, the largest 50 feet broad
and nearly 150 feet long, and S.S.E. of them one-fourth of a mile distant, a
discoloration of water indicating another and smaller rock. Most probably
these discoveries are one and the same danger, the position of which is the
mean of those given to them by the discoverers. The barks What-cheer in
1858 and Yankee in 1863 report to have run over the position without seeing
anything.
Captain Redfield's position is 37° 35′ N., long. 137° 30′ W.
NECKER ISLE was discovered by La Pérouse, November 1, 1786. It is
very small, and is only a rock of 500 yards in length, and at most 360 feet
in height. There was not a single tree seen on it, but vegetation was
abundant towards its summit. The bare rock was covered with birds' dung,
and appeared white, contrasting with the different red spots on which the
grass had not grown. Its shores are as steep-to as a wall, and the sea broke
with fury against it everywhere; off its S.E. point only are a few rocks.
Its barrenness renders it unimportant to sailors, but its situation is not so,
and was determined by Captain Stanikowitch as 23° 34′ N., long. 164°
47′ 20″ W.
It was surveyed by Lieut. Brooke, U.S.N., in the schooner Fenimore
Cooper, and its centre is placed in lat. 23° 35′ N. (nearly on the tropic), and
long. 161° 40′ W.
Lieut. Brooke's examination proves the island to be three-quarters of a
mile long, West by North and East by South, and 340 yards broad, with
two peaks, one at each longitudinal extremity, about 275 feet high, and a
small island about 100 yards to the North, connected with the larger by a
reef. He found from 15 to 18 fathoms water at 2 miles distance. Captain
Patty, of the Maunakawai, could not find any landing-place for boats, as the
surf broke all around.
It was visited soon after by Captain Brooks in the Gambia. He says:-
This island is rocky, and about 1 to 2 miles long, surrounded by a bank
making off to the southward about 50 miles, according to Captain Long's
statement. Captain Brooks crossed in lat. 23° 14', and found it to be
about 15 miles across from East to West. The western edge is very abrupt ;
the discolouration of the water may be seen at a distance of 3 miles from the
mast-head. Soundings are from deep sea to 14 fathoms, which deepen to
the eastward gradually to about 35 fathoms. A vessel crossing this reef by
FRENCH FRIGATES SHOAL.
861
heaving-to can take any quantity of fish of very fine quality. There is a
ravine makes down from the S.E. end of the rock, where at some seasons
there is water. A boat may land in good water at the foot of this gulch.*
Arabia Shoal. The ship Arabia sailed over a shoal with a large quantity
of kelp fast to the bottom, and extending S.S.E. and N.N.W. 2 miles by 1
mile in breadth. The lead gave 11 fathoms in several places. Lat. 29° 30′
North, long. 155° 55′ West. This shoal lying in the route, between the
Sandwich Islands and N.W. America deserves a special examination.†
FROST SHOAL, a bank with 17 and 20 fathoms water on it, was reported
in 1859 by the ship E. L. Frost. It was of coral bottom, and said to be
upwards of 50 miles in extent North and South. Its position would be
about 23° 45′ N., long. 163° 30′ W. Nothing more is known about it.—
Naut. Mag. 1859, p. 606.
FRENCH FRIGATES SHOAL (Basse des Frégates Francaises) lies to the
N.W. of the Sandwich Islands, and was also discovered and named by La
Pérouse, November 6, 1786, during his passage from Monterey to Macao.
It is a rocky bank, even with the water's edge. On its N.W. extremity is
an islet, or bare rock, of 100 yards in diameter, and 40 or 50 yards in
height. The space between this rock and the breakers is occupied by three
sand-banks, raised about 4 feet above the surface of the water. The astro-
nomer, M. Dagelet, made the islet in lat. 23° 45′ N., long. 165° 50′, and the
eastern point of the reef in long. 165° 40'. Capt. Stanikowitch gives it the
same position.
It remained unnoticed for many years, except by some wrecks upon it,
attributed, but in all probability without reason, to its wrong position on the
chart. But when the guano excitement arose it was examined by Lieut.
Brooke in the U.S.S. Fenimore Cooper, in 1859, who reported large deposits
of that substance. He made the islet in the centre to be in lat. 23° 46′ N.,
long. 166° 16' 10" W., or 26' westward of Dagelet's position. By the same
authority the East extremity is in 23° 44′ N., long. 166° 5′ W.; the S.W.
end of the crescent 23° 41′ N., 166° 13′ W.
Lieut. Brooke spent four days in an examination of it, sailing all around
and through the inner passages. The guano islet or rock (120 feet high,
* Deckers Island, a whaler report, in 23° 24′ N., 163° 5′ W., and also in the same East
longitude, probably refer to this.
+ A questionable island, Donna Maria Laxara, before mentioned, has been shown near
this in lat. 29° 0' N., long. 155° 40′ W.
862
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
180 feet base), with a small rock about 250 yards N.N.W. of it, he found in
the centre of the reef, and five dry sand-spits, the largest three-quarters of
a mile long, from the centre islet bearing N. 76° E. (true), 4 miles distant;
the next, 45° E., 6 miles distant; then a very small one, N. 11° E., 5
miles; then one N. 83° E., 42 miles, also very small; and lastly, one of half
a mile diameter, N. 12° W., 5 miles distant from the centre rock. Besides
these, heavy breakers were seen, N.W. N. (true), 6 miles from the rock ;
then E. by S. S. 9 miles, S.E. by E. & E., 5 miles, and S.W. S. 54 miles
from the rock. A passage was found nearly in a straight line from the south-
ward of the N.W. breakers, close by the central rock (West of it), to the
S.E. extremity of the reef, in from 12 to 17 fathoms. Lieut. Brooke's posi-
tion of the central rock is from the mean of a number of excellent observa-
tions; the variation he made (1859) 9° 15′ E.
It was subsequently visited by Captain N. C. Brooks, in the American
barque Gambia in May, 1859, and with the Modern Times, for the purpose of
removing the guano, but none could be found. He says:
Next visited French Frigate Shoal, situated in lat. 28° 46′ N. long. 166°
14′ W., or rather this is the position of the principal rock, on which is the
very large and extensive deposit of guano reported to exist there. The reef
is crescent-shaped, about 45 miles in circumference. The position as given
by Captain Brooks, of the Gambia, differs from Lieut. Brooke, of the U.S.
surveying schooner Fenimore Cooper. Captain Brooks is of opinion that his
position is the correct one, as he has taken observations on both voyages to
the place. He also landed on sixteen small islands or sand-spits which sur-
rounded the rock. One point of the crescent is to the N.W. and the other
bears S.S.E. The shoal is protected on the N.E. and S.E. by a reef on
which the surf breaks heavily. The guano rock is about 180 feet long and
40 feet wide at the base, and rises very abruptly to the height of 125 feet,
forming a ridge, at each end of which there is a space of about 12 square ft.
This rock is situated in about the centre of the shoal, and can be seen at a
distance of some 8 miles, and closely resembles a full-rigged brig. These
shoals open to the West. There is no danger outside of the line of breakers.
There is good anchorage inside in from 5 to 14 fathoms water.
The largest
sand-spit of the group bears about N.E. by E. from the rock, about 4 miles
distant. Inside of this spit there is a good harbour, where a vessel of any
draught of water may enter and lie in safety from the sea with good an-
chorage. Water may be obtained on the largest of these spits at about 8
feet below the surface. It is very brackish, and strongly impregnated with
lime. The shoals abound with fish and turtle.-Naut. Mag. Sept. 1860.
Among the more remarkable wrecks was the Daniel Wood, a whaler, on
April 14th, 1859. The crew lived on the islets for some time, but were
rescued. The South Seaman was totally wrecked on them March 13, 1859,
GARDNER ISLAND-MARO REEF.
863
but the crew of that vessel were also saved. The Rebecca was lost by mis-
taking the rock for a ship.
Brooks Shoal.-Captain N. C. Brooks, after leaving French Frigates
Shoal and running 30 miles W. by N. from it, crossed a shoal on which he
found 14 fathoms water, and saw the bottom distinctly. Although this was
the least water found, there may be less, and besides these coral reefs grow
up very rapidly at times, and therefore caution should be used when near
its position, about lat. 23° 52′ N., long. 166° 46′ W.
GARDNER ISLAND was discovered by Captain Allen, of the whaler
Maro, June 2, 1820. There is no doubt but that it is the same as the Man-
of-War Rock, and the Pollard Rock and Polland Island, of the Americans.
According to its discoverer, it is a small island, about a mile in circum-
ference, and about 900 feet high, having at its S.W. point two large rocks
running off to the N.W. Capt. Stanikowitch places it in lat. 25° 3′ N., long.
168° 1′ 30″ W. Lieut. Brooke, U.S.N., makes it 34 further West. By his
description it is an inaccessible rock, 170 feet high, with a base of about
600 feet, and a smaller rock close to its S.W. extremity, from which a reef
makes out about half a mile. A bank, with from 17 to 20 fathoms water,
surrounds the rock, extending westward about 5 miles and S.W. more than
8 miles.
TWO BROTHERS REEF was so named by Krusenstern, from the vessel
which was supposed to be wrecked on it, but it is thought that it was the
French Frigates Shoal. The position given was lat. 24° 14′ N., long. 168°
30′ W.; but Captain N. C. Brooks says that he passed over the position of
an island given as 24° 6′ N., 167° 55′ W., without seeing anything, although
there was every indication of land in the vicinity.
MARO REEF was discovered by Captain Allen, in the American whale-
ship Maro, in June, 1820, in lat. 25° 24′ N., long. 170° 20′ W. Captain
Stanikowitch, who explored it in 1828, found that it was 8 leagues in cir-
cumference, and that it was visible from the deck of his vessel at 6 miles off.
His position of it is lat. 25° 46′ N., long. 171° 49′ E.
It was placed by Lieut. Brooke, U.S.N., N.W. end lat. 25° 31' N., long.
170° 37' W.
Captain N. C. Brooks says:-We next ran for Maro Shoals, in lat. 25°
30′ N., long. 170° 31' W. These shoals cover an area of about 35 miles in
circumference, are low, and covered with breakers. They may be seen on a
clear day from aloft at 5 miles distance; the discoloration of water may be
noticed as soon as the breakers are seen. The shoals are enclosed by a line
864
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20º N.
of detached breakers, and have a sandy bottom, with 1 fathom of water,-
no rock or land above the surface, nor any lagoon inside. I consider these
shoals very dangerous, as the breakers are low and scarcely to be distin-
guished from sea caps.
LAYSAN or Moller Island is an American discovery. Captain Staniko-
witch, not knowing that it had been previously seen, gave it the name of his
vessel. It is a small, low island, inhabited, of a circular form, with a lagoon,
and 6 miles in circumference. From his observations it lies in lat. 25° 46′
North, long. 171° 49′ W.
Lieut. Brooke, U.S.N., makes it in lat. 25° 47′ 17″ N., long. 171° 52′ 47″
West, and to be 2 miles long and 14 mile broad, a low island, covered with
shrubs. This is also stated by Capt. Longbank of the barque Clara.
Captain Brooks says that Laysan Island is in lat. 25° 46′ N., long. 171°
49′ W., is 3 miles long and 2 broad, and covered with a luxuriant growth
of shrubs. It is surrounded by a reef about half a mile from the land.
Outside of this reef there is a bank 5 miles wide, on which I found from 14
to 19 fathoms water. There is a boat passage inside the reef nearly the
whole way round the island. Good landing can be found anywhere, ex-
cepting on the South and S.E. sides; good anchorage anywhere on the
West side; the best, however, is about half a mile from the S.W. point, in
from 8 to 12 fathoms water. It can be approached from any point of the
compass, no dangers existing within half a mile of the reef. On the East
end of the island I found the remains of a wreck, but saw no signs of a
camp.
There is a lagoon on the island about 1 mile long and half a mile wide,
with 5 fathoms water in the centre, and coral bottom. On the shores of this
lagoon I found salt of good quality.
There are five palm-trees on the island, and I collected twenty-five varie-
ties of plants, some of them splendid flowering shrubs, very fragrant, re-
sembling plants I have seen in gardens in Honolulu. I saw on the beach
trunks of immense trees. The island contains about fifty acres of good soil.
It is covered with a variety of land and sea birds; some of the land varieties
are small and of beautiful plumage. Birds' eggs were abundant.
There is a very small deposit of guano on this island, but not of sufficient
quantity to warrant any attempts to get it. Dug a well and found very good
water. The reefs here abound in fish and turtle.*
* Bunker Island, according to Captain Kotzebue, was discovered by an American, Jan.
11, 1815, in lat. 28° 20′ N., long. 172° 30′ W. And there is an island named Philadelphia
in the American list, in lat. 28° 0′, long. 173° 30′ W. Captain Patty, of the schooner Ma-
nuakawai, sought for it without success.
LISIANSKY ISLAND.
865
LISIANSKY ISLAND was discovered by Capt. Lisiansky in the Russian
ship Neva, striking on its reef on October 15, 1805, and was nearly wrecked.
According to its discoverer's description, it is a small, low island, almost on
a level with the sea, exclusive of a small eminence on the eastern part. Its
soil consists of coral sand, overgrown with grass and creeping plants, and
full of holes. There is not any water to be found, and consequently there
are no trees or shrubs. Lisiansky found several large trunks of trees thrown
on to the beach. He calls the shallow S.E. part of the extensive reef, in the
middle of which the island stands, the Neva Shoal, from his vessel. This is
about 1½ mile E.S.E. from the island from his plan.
Captain N. C. Brooks visited it in the Gambia in 1859. He says:—Lisi-
ansky, Lassion, and Pell are one and the same island. On most charts
quite a group is laid down, but there is only one island, situated in lat. 26°
North, long. 173° 57′ West. It is 3 miles long and 2 miles wide, and is
surrounded by a reef, on which the sea breaks heavily. A bank makes off
several miles, on which there is 19 fathoms water, shoaling to 8 fathoms near
the reef. This reef is about half a mile from the island on the East and
North sides; on the West side it extends in a circular form at a distance of
2½ miles, the inside forming a lagoon. This island should not be approached
from the South, as a line of detached breakers makes off for many miles, and
can scarcely be distinguished from sea caps. Upon this line the Holder
Borden and Conahassett were lost. This island should be approached from
the North and by standing round to the westward, the island bearing due
East. Good anchorage may be found anywhere outside the lagoon, in from
10 to 14 fathoms. In entering the lagoon on a line with the reef, there are
two very large breakers about three-quarters of a mile apart, being North
and South of each other. Between these, on the same line, are lesser
breakers, through which a vessel may enter in a channel about a quarter of
a mile wide, with 4 fathoms water. Just inside the reef I found 12 fathoms,
gradually shoaling towards the land. A vessel may anchor within half a
mile of land in 4 fathoms water, with good anchorage. There are rocks
under water in this lagoon, which may easily be avoided by keeping a good
look-out at the mast-head. I found about a 2-knot current setting North
and South; tide rises and falls 24 inches. Good water may be obtained
here with very little trouble. The shoals abound with fish and turtle.
Landing can be effected anywhere on the island. On the South end, near
the centre, there has been a lagoon, but it is now partially overgrown with
shrubs.
On the East point, about half-way, is a hill about 40 feet high, with a
look-out pole and cask. On the South end I found a ship's house, which
had been used to sleep in. On the North end I saw the trunk of a redwood
tree, 12 feet in circumference. On the West side found a notice left by the
San Diego, taking possession for parties in San Francisco, dated April 27th,
North Pacific.
3 K
866
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
1859. I consider the lead the safest guide at night among these islands, as
they are all surrounded by a bank for some distance off shore. Passed over
the position of Neva Island, but saw no land.
There is a dangerous shoal discovered by Captain Stanikowitch in 1827.
The eastern extreme of this lies S.E. S. 7 miles from the N.W. part of the
island, and its western extremity at the distance of 4 miles.
The islands called Laskar, Lasan Rys, Lassiano, Neavas, and Neva,* are
doubtless intended for the above, as the positions of most of them have been
passed over. It has been also called Sapron Island, and Pell Island by Capt.
Pell, of the whaling brig Delaware.
Capt. Lisiansky places the centre of the island in lat. 26° 2′ 48″ N., long.
173° 42′ 30″ W.; Captain Brooks, as before stated, in longitude 173° 57
West.t
A Bank, reported by Captain Pell, of the brig Delaware (see note below)
in lat. 25° 50′, long. 174° 26', or, according to whaler report, 1º more to the
eastward, apparently lies to the S.W. of Lisiansky Island. Lieut. Brooke,
U.S.N., of the Fenimore Cooper, found bottom at 15, 17, 18, 20, 25, and 40
fathoms, between the parallels of 25° 43′ N. and 26° 3′ N., and the meridians
of 173° 29′ W. and 173° 32′ W. It appears to be a south-westerly extension
of the bank around Lisiansky, which island the Cooper could not gain on
account of stormy weather.
The PEARL and HERMES REEF is an extensive shoal, on which two
British whale-ships, the Pearl and the Hermes, were wrecked on the same
night, and within 10 miles of each other, April 26, 1822. They were cast
away on the East side of the island, and were fortunate in having favourable
weather for several days, which enabled them to save a great portion of
* Neva Island, in 25° 50′ N., 172° 20′ W., was not seen by Captain Patty, schooner
Manuakawai, nor by Capt. Brooks in the Gambia, as above stated.
+ Some very doubtful islands have been announced in this neighbourhood.
An island, lat. 28° 35′ N., long. 171° 42′ W. (China Mail).
Massachusetts Island, lat. 28° 30′, long. 176° 50′ W., whaler report. Captain Patty, of the
schooner Manuakawai, ran over the place without seeing it, or Philadelphia Island, lat. 28°
20' N., long. 172° 30′ W.
New Island, 26° 24′ N., 170° 54′ E., and Bassiosus Island, 26° 6′ N., 173° 27′ E., are both
from whaler report, and are very doubtful. Laysans Rys and Laskar Reef, sometimes
placed hereabouts, are evidently Lisiansky Island, badly spelt, and placed in East instead of
West longitude.
Drakes Island, a whaler report, lat. 25° 30′ N., long. 174° 0′ W., is probably Lisiansky
Island.
An island in 21° 0' N., long. 176° 30′ W., from whaler report.
Palmer Reef, according to Captain Palmer, of the Kingfisher, in lat. 20° 54′ N., long.
173° 25′ W., has 4 feet water over it.
THE PEARL AND HERMES REEF.
867
their stores, and to build a vessel of about 30 tons from the wrecks; this
they did in six weeks, and reached the Sandwich Islands in safety.
It was visited by Morrell in 1825, by Stanikowitch in 1827, and a plan of
it is given by Captain Duperrey. There are considerable differences in the
respective positions assigned by each.*
Captain Stanikowitch says it consists of several small islands, of which
the two largest are named Pearl and Hermes, encircled by a reef, through
which is a passage by which the Deliverance passed to an anchorage near the
largest of the two islands.
Captain N. C. Brooks says that the group consists of twelve islands, sur-
rounded by a reef 50 miles in circumference, on which the sea breaks heavily.
It is open from the West. There is a lagoon inside, where I found from 5
to 15 fathoms within 2 miles of the land. A vessel may approach from any
point. The largest island, which bears E. by S. S. from the entrance, may
be approached within 2 miles safely. There is good anchorage outside, in
from 8 to 12 fathoms, on the N.W. side. Current sets to the North and
South at the rate of 2 knots. Tide rises 24 inches, the prevailing winds
being from the E.S.E.
The largest islands are covered with coarse grass and trees. I saw the
remains of the two wrecks, the keel, stem, and stern-post, with three iron
tanks, still standing. I brought away a wooden mortar used by the party
on shore. The remains of the camp still exist on the large island. I took
possession of this group. A bank makes off to the East and North for about
a mile, and to the West for several miles, with from 8 to 16 fathoms, and no
dangers outside the breakers. Plenty of fish and turtle.
It was partially examined and the positions established by Captain
Reynolds, in the U.S.S. Lackawanna, in 1867. He says:-Pearl and Hermes
reef, like Ocean and Brooks Islands, has a coral wall above water at its
N.W. extreme, which, however, shows more in the shape of detached rocks
than as a continuous parapet, and, soon expending itself beneath the surface,
does not reappear, at least so far as our examination showed; this was not
very close, as I had time only to get the outline of the reef.
The N.E. corner includes a sand island. Another showed itself some miles
to the westward in the lagoon. Three others lie along the southern edge of
the reef, which turning to the northward and westward, close to the western-
most island, soon after ceased to show any signs of breakers. Shoal water,
* Delaware Bank.-The American brig Delaware, H. Hunt, lieutenant-commander, dis-
covered a bank above the water in lat. 27° 26′ N., long. 174° 25′ N., in 1844, which seen at
some miles distance, appeared to be 12 or 14 miles long. It is stated, also, that there are
several others in the neighbourhood, many of which are not known. It should be noticed
that this Delaware Bank is above water, and 95 miles to the North of that noticed
abore.
3 K 2
868
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
however, makes out for some miles to the West, and then trends in north-
easterly towards the N.W. rocks. In this the western side of the reef re-
sembles French Frigate shoals.
We made the circumference of the reef to be 42 miles. Its shape is
irregular, its diameter from North to South 9 miles, from East to West 16
miles. N.E. point of reef, lat. 27° 56′ 30″ N., long. 175° 46′ 0″ W.; S.W.
end, lat. 27° 48′ 45″ N., long. 176° 0′ 30″ W.; S.E. point, lat. 27° 48′ 0″ N.,
long. 175° 47′ 30″ W.
OCEAN or Cure Island is an American discovery, the existence of which
was confirmed by Captain Stanikowitch, of the Imperial Russian navy, in
1827. It is a small low, and very dangerous island. It was examined by
Captain W. Reynolds, U.S.N., in the ship Lackawanna, in 1867, and is thus
described :-
Ocean Island is almost the facsimile of Brooks Island, as will appear from
an inspection of the chart. It commences also with a coral wall at its N.W.
extreme, which continues without a break until it dips under water about the
centre of the Green Island, but does not crop out again. From the end of
the wall the line of breakers continues to their termination about a mile West
of the N.W. end of the Sand Island; from thence to the N.W. rocks the
water is shoal, and affords no entrance into the lagoon, all of which is
shallow water.
The Green Island is identical in appearance from the sea with Middle
Brooks Island, except that some portions of the shrubbery appeared to
have grown a few feet higher. There is a small sand spit between it and
the Sand Island, as is the case at Brooks island; but the Sand Island here
has not more than 10 feet elevation above the level of the sea. The trunk
(and roots) of a large tree was lying high and dry on the S.E. side of this
Sand Island, and on the N.E. end of the Green Island we saw a ship's lower
mast, which looked as if it had recently got ashore.
This reef is 143 miles in circumference; no outlying dangers seen from
the masthead, and no other land.
Sand Island is in lat. 28° 24′ 45″ N., long. 178° 27′ 45″ W.; N.W. point
of Green Island, lat. 28° 24′ 50″ N., long. 178° 26′ 5″ W.
Captain Brooks describes it as consisting of three small islands or rocks
surrounded by a reef 30 miles in circumference. This is the island on which
Captains King and Molteno were wrecked in the Gledstone. The American
whale ship Parker was also lost here. A bank makes off round this reef
at a distance of a mile with 25 to 30 fathoms water. The three islands are
on a line East and West. The surf makes off to the East a quarter of a
mile, and to the N. W. 12 miles. The reef opens to the S.W. for about 3
miles. The best anchorage is found by bringing the N.W. point of the
breakers North, in from 7 to 12 fathoms water, one mile from the reef.
BROOKS OR MIDWAY ISLANDS.
Current sets North and South about 2 knots.
869
They
Tide rises 22 inches.
can be approached from any point, and can be seen from the mast-head 8
miles, being about 20 feet high, and covered with bushes. On the North
end of the large island, which is 3 miles long by 14 miles wide, there has
been a lagoon, but it is now overgrown. On this island I found the remains
of wrecks. Good water may be obtained on this island. The second island
in size is about 2 miles long and half a mile wide, with little vegetation, few
fowls, and plenty of turtle. The third is a mere sand-spit.
It is probably the same as those described as Massachusetts Islands of the
Americans, and Dry Island, with an attached reef, of Captain Joy.
BROOKS OR MIDWAY ISLANDS.-This atoll is of much more interest
than its uninhabited and barren condition would warrant. It was discovered
by Captain N. C. Brooks, in the Gambia, July 5th, 1859. He called the two
islands Middlebrook Islands, and took possession of them for the United
States, leaving a Kamtchatkan as a settler. On his return he kept its posi-
tion a secret, and his discovery was utilized by the Pacific Mail Company,
who intended forming a depot here for their Trans-Pacific steamers, in pre-
ference to Honolulu, which was thought to be under foreign influence, es-
tablishing here a coaling and refreshment station.
With this view it was closely examined in September, 1867, by Captain
Reynolds, U.S.N., in the Lackawanna, and the following is his report, as
published by the U.S. Bureau of Navigation.
The reef encircling Brooks Island is pear-shaped, with its stem part to
the eastward. It is 18 miles in circumference, as measured by the patent log
in the two circuits around it, and is without a break, except on its western
side. At the N.W. point is a little patch of breakers, a few detached rocks,
and then commences a compact coral wall of about 5 feet elevation, and, as
far as our observation went, from 6 to 20 feet in width, which continues for
4 miles to the southward and eastward, when it loses its uniformity of sur-
face, and presents a line of detached rocks, very little more than awash, for
21 miles to the southward; there, off the centre of Middle Brooks Island,
the rocks dip under water, but re-appear 2 miles to the westward, from
whence they again show as a continuous wall for about 4 miles to the
northward and westward, ending there, and forming the South side of the
entrance to Welles Harbour.
The entrance is about three-quarters of a mile wide, and from its northern
edge to the N.W. rocks there is a bed of coral from 1 to 16 fathoms, showing
above water in one place, with occasional breakers.
The northern, eastern, and southern portions of the reef are steep-to, to
the rocks. We saw the bottom in two places only where the soundings are
shown on the chart.
On the West side sheltered anchorage, during the trade winds, can be had
·
870
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
in from 10 to 13 fathoms, but on a very foul bottom. The best outside an-
chorage is in Seward Roads, in 10 to 13 fathoms water.
Middle Brooks Island.—At the eastern extremity of the reef, or in the
stem of the pear, is Middle Brooks Island, also pear-shaped, one and a quarter
miles in length, and half a mile wide. Its North point is in lat. 28° 13′ 30″
North, long. 177° 18′ 20″ West, of a nearly uniform elevation, varying from
6 to 15 feet, covered with a growth of small shrubs, coarse grass, and some
vines. The soil is all coral, sand, and shells, except a small portion on the
South side, where there are a few acres of mould 2 feet in depth. No black
earth is to be found on this island. The beach is of a dazzling whiteness.
By digging 4 to 7 feet, water is reached, which becomes potable after
standing.
A mile and a quarter West of Middle Brooks Island is Lower Brooks Island
(a small spit, intervening a sand heap of irregular shape, 1 miles long,
three-quarters of a mile broad, and 57 feet high at the flagstaff, its greatest
elevation).
Vegetation is just commencing on this island, in the shape of detached
clumps of shrubs around portions of its edge, and an occasional growth of
grass, the greatest abundance being on its S. W. extremity. No black earth
is to be found on it; on the contrary, the glare from the white sand dis-
tresses the eye.
Captain Burdett informed me that he had seen 250 yards of it wash
away, and begin to re-form, during the few weeks he had been ashore. The
sand spit up by the N.W. rocks, which was quite conspicuous when we an-
chored near it on the 16th, had almost disappeared by the 27th, when I
landed on it; but, from the quantity of sand thereabouts, I presume a per-
manent sand island is forming.
On the lower island the agent of the Pacific Mail Company has established
himself, because it borders on the harbour.
Welles Harbour is formed very much like that of Honolulu, is rather
more roomy and as safe, but has not quite the same depth of water on its
bar, having but from 21 to 16 feet at low water. The anchorage is in lat.
28° 14' N., long. 177° 23′ 15″ W.
The bar is quite narrow, and has an uneven bottom of coral rock and small
sand holes. Its depth varies from 21 to 16 feet, but changes so often and so
constantly, from 3 to 3 fathoms, as to make it unsafe to count on crossing it
without getting a three-fathoms cast or two. We had 19 feet going in, and
two casts of 18 feet in going out, both times at low water.
Like Honolulu, the entrance to it is from the West, through a narrow
opening in the coral reef 800 feet across where most contracted. It can be
entered as readily as Honolulu at all seasons of the year. Depth of water
for anchoring 5 to 7 fathoms, white sandy bottom.
This harbour is cut off from the lagoon by shoal water a mile in width;
BROOKS ISLANDS-WELLES HARBOUR.
871
and our survey, carefully made, does not disclose a passage anywhere for
ships into the lagoon.
It would be possible for a light-draught vessel to get into the lagoon by
passing to the northward of the "middle ground," and threading her way
in among the rocks, but no channel proper for ships exists.
The lagoon is 2 miles in length, and one and a half miles wide at its
greatest breadth. There are many coral lumps in it, with from 1 or 2 fa-
thoms water over them; otherwise these soundings are regular, over a white
sandy bottom.
Welles Harbour must, therefore, be the resort for ships drawing less
than 18 feet, or, at high water, of a little over that draught. Vessels of
deep draught must lie in Seward Roads, picking out a sandy bottom to let
go in.
The greatest rise and fall of the tide, observed during the neap tides, was
18 inches; the lowest 15 inches. Ebb runs 6 hours, flood 5½ hours. From
the appearance of the beach I suppose the rise of the spring tides is as much
as 3 feet, which would allow a deeper draught to be carried over the bar at
those periods. The bar is well within the entrance, and there is no swell on
it during the trade winds.
The flood sets to the northward, the ebb to the southward, from 1 knot to
2. At Welles Harbour the current always ran out to the westward, with
very little strength.
The coral shelf which runs from the N.W. end of the reef to the southern
wall gives very irregular soundings, having deep fissures between the rocks,
and again spaces of sandy bottom. On this shelf, at our anchorage of the
23rd of August, we lost one anchor with 15 fathoms chain, and broke the
flukes off another; could not recover either of them, although we searched
for them with all the boats for five days.
Two circuits of the reef made with the ship, with good look-outs aloft,
disclosed no dangers outlying it; and, so far as our observation goes, Pearl
and Hermes Reef to the eastward, and Ocean Island to the West, are the
only dangers in the way of direct approach.
Steamers, in approaching Brooks Island from the eastward, should make
Middle Brooks Island, and follow the southern wall to the entrance of the
harbour. If coming from the West, the Lower Island should be made.
Sailing vessels from the eastward, during the trade season, should keep to
northward of the reef, and pass around the N.W. rocks, to retain a fair
wind for Seward Roads. Square-rigged vessels must warp into the harbour
with easterly winds.
On the N.E. beach of Middle Brooks Island a broken lower mast of a
ship is lying; it is 2 feet in diameter, and strengthened with iron bands.
On the East beach and on the bluff occasional drift timber is to be met with,
and some lumber, mostly spruce and redwood. On the West side or lagoon
872
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
beach, is a portion of the trunk of a redwood tree 5 feet in diameter, and also
the skeleton of a calf sperm whale. On the lagoon side of the other island
two lower masts of junks are stranded, and several redwood logs elsewhere,
one of these over 2 feet in diameter.
Tropic birds, men-of-war hawks, and gulls, swarm upon these islands. A
few curlew and plover are the only land birds met with. Turtle abound, but
seals were seen only occasionally. Fish of many varieties in great abund-
ance; we hauled the seine frequently, catching enough for all hands; among
them many fine mullet.
As there is more than ordinary interest in this lonely spot, we add the
account given by the naturalist, S. D. Kennedy, Esq., surgeon to the Lacka-
wanna.
I have made an examination of the soil, growth, and water upon Brooks
Island, and have to report as follows:-
These are two long low islands chiefly formed of coral shells and sand.
They lie in a lagoon surrounded by a barrier reef, except at one point,
where a breach in its continuity affords an entrance of three fathoms in
depth.
The North island is one mile in length and half a mile in width; while
South Island is somewhat larger and higher, but has less soil and scantier
vegetation. A beach consisting of white sand, disintegrated shells and
coral, extends from the lagoon to a distance of from 50 to 100 yards all
around the North island. Inside of this space the island gradually sloping
from its two higher points (the north-eastern 15 feet, and north-western 8
feet), is covered with a growth of coarse grass and low shrubs. From its
north-eastern point a ledge of coral rock, lying at an angle of five degrees,
extends about 100 yards into the lagoon. From this point a fringing reef of
the same kind of rock, at about the same declination, runs for two-thirds of
the extent of the eastern side of the island.
Judging from this peculiarity of coral formation, and the numbers of dead
shells, corals, and mollusks found on the highest points, this portion of the
island seems to be emerging.
Over all that part of the island where vegetation is found, there is a
superficial layer of fine, porous, grayish sand; but generally it is devoid
of vegetable mould. Beneath, you come at once to coarse sand and
gravel.
On the South side of the island there is a slight depression, embracing
about five acres, extending from N.N.E. to S.S.W. This area has a super-
ficial stratum of vegetable mould from 18 inches to 2 feet in depth, mixed
with a small per-centage of guano; beneath this is a layer of coarse sand of
the depth of one foot, and below this another stratum of loose stone, shells,
and corals, closely packed together. extending down to the hard coral. This
foundation of the island, as of the reef, consists of madrepore, meandrina,
BROOKS OR MIDWAY ISLANDS.
873
and porites coral. But little of the red coral can be found about the island
or in the lagoon. This embraces the whole extent of anything like true soil
that I was able to find on the island. This mould is, I think, of sufficient
richness to raise potatoes, peas, beans, and other vegetables adapted to
light soils. There is a small amount of guano mixed with it; and with cul-
tivation it would doubtless become richer by the addition of decomposed
vegetable matter.
The vegetation of the island consists entirely of shrubs, herbs, and coarse
grasses; none of the shrubs are over 3 to 5 feet high. Of these, and the
herbs, the principal families are the leguminosa, lobeliacæ, portulacca, and
convolvulacea. Some seem to be new species of the different genera of the
above families.
On both islands several wells have been dug and water found at depths
of from 4 to 7 feet. I have tested the water taken from these as far as
the materials which I have will admit. When first collected, the specimens
were so full of sand and organic impurities in a state of suspension, that it
was necessary to filter them. After filtration, tested by different re-agents,
they were found to be hard, free from organic impurities in solution, to con-
tain carbonic acid, carbonate of lime, and a per-centage of chlorides. The
quantitive analysis of these constituents I have been unable to make for want
of proper materials, but have preserved specimens for further experiments.
It becomes better adapted to drinking after standing some time. Capt.
Burdett, of the Pacific Naval Steam-ship Company, is reported to have
found fresh water; but so far, he has chiefly used it for washing, and
the specimen sent off to me gave the same results, when tested, as the others.
The water seems to become purer in proportion to the depth; and there is
every evidence that wells, properly sunk to a good depth, would afford a good
supply of potable water.
Immense numbers of sea birds are constantly hovering over and alighting
upon these islands.
The bushes and surface of the ground are thickly
covered with their nests; while the young birds, unable to fly, are so nu-
merous as to make it difficult to walk any distance without trampling upon
them. The principal varieties are gulls, fern, gannet, men-of-war, and tro-
pic birds. From such vast number there should be a large amount of guano
deposited; but, except in the five acres I have spoken of, its accumulation ist
small, owing to the looseness or porousness of the soil allowing it to be
washed away or filtered through it.
The lagoon is full of fish, seal, and turtle. The seal is the phoca vitulina
or common hair seal, and is not of much commercial importance. The fish
belong principally to the mullet, perch, and mackerel families; many of them
are of most brilliant colours, and seem to be species of the genus cory-
phena (dolphins). Large quantities of the holathmian, beche de mer, exist
874
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
on the bottom of the sea, both inside and outside the reef, and can be
gathered without any difficulty.
During the seventeen days that this vessel remained at the islands, the
lowest point which the thermometer reached was 72°, while the highest was
89°. The barometer varied from 29.22 to 30.25.
There appears to be enough true soil, of sufficient depth to raise a good
many vegetables upon it at present, and with but little trouble the extent of
this area might be increased.
The water in some of the wells now dug might be used in an emergency,
and doubtless by sinking properly constructed wells to a sufficient depth,
perfectly potable water may be found. Owing to the nature of the soil,
these may be made with but little trouble, and at a very small expense.
KRUSENSTERN ROCK was discovered by Lisiansky, October 23, 1805.
The bank around it appeared to stretch North and South about 2 miles, and
the sea only broke on it in one place. Lat. 22° 15′ N., long. 175′ 37′ W.
It is probably the same as Sounders Island and Pylstaart Island, laid down 16
miles to the N.W. of it.
Patrocinio, or Byers Island, was discovered in 1799 by Captain Don M.
Zipiani, commanding the Spanish vessel Senhora del Pilar. He states its ex-
tent to be 3 miles from N.N.E. to S.S.W., and is in lat. 28° 9' N., long.
175° 48′ E.; but the U.S. surveying vessel Peacock passed near this spot with-
out seeing it. This renders it more probable that it is identical with
Byers Island of Captain Morrell, of guano celebrity. This he places in
lat. 28° 32′ N., long. 177° 4′ E., but this position cannot be depended on.
Patrocinio, or Byers' Island, according to Morrell, July, 1825, is moder-
ately elevated, and has some bushes and spots of vegetation. It is about 4
miles in circumference, and has good anchorage on the W.S.W. side, with
15 fathoms water, sand and coral bottom. There are no dangers around this
island except on the S.E. side, where there is a coral reef running to the
southward about 2 miles. Sea-birds, sea-elephants, and green turtles resort.
to it, and plenty of fine fish may be caught on its shores with hook and line.
Fresh water may be had here from the S.W. side of the island, which is of
volcanic origin. But as said above, the positions and even the existance of
the islands, are very questionable.*
* Morrell Island is another so named by Krusenstern from its discoverer, by whom it is
placed in lat. 29° 57′ N., long. 174° 31′ E. It is said to be a small, low island, nearly level
with the water, 4 miles in circumference; it was covered with sea-fowl, and its shores were
lined with sea-elephants; green turtles were in abundance (July, 1825). Apparently of
volcanic origin.
On the West side of the island there is a reef which runs off about 15 miles; while that
CRESPO, ETC.
875
SIXTY-FOUR FATHOMS OR MELLISH BANK.-A bank has been several times
announced hereabout. The first in lat. 36° 25′ N., long. 179° 30′ E., from a
notice in the China Mail. It is placed a degree further South, from a re-
port in the Alta California, and an American chart places it a degree still
more South. Mellish Bank is said to be in lat. 34° 25′ N., long. 178° 47′ E.
These possibly refer to the same, if it exists. At all events it will be de-
sirable to know whether there are soundings here. Until the negative is
determined, it may be retained, as not being dangerous.
CRESPO, or Rica de Plata, is said to have been discovered by Capt. Crespo,
in the Spanish galleon El Rey Carlos, October 15, 1801, and seeing it 10
miles off, says it is not low, and that it is in lat. 32° 46′ N., long. 170° 10′ E.
It is also placed by whaler report in 33° 56′ N., 169° 15′ E. Against this it
may be stated that it was neither seen nor heard of by Du Petit Thouars,
who passed near it.
Admiral Krusenstern says, that as the Japanese believe in the existence
of an island of silver, and one of gold, it is probable that Spaniards have
applied these attractive names during their search for the precious metals in
the South Seas. The navigator would make a loss of time in seeking the
fabulous isles of Rica de Oro and Rica de Plata, the latter term sometimes
being applied to this island*
on the S.E. extends about 30 miles in the direction of S.S.E. These reefs are formed of
coral, and afford good anchorage on the S.W. side; but on the East side the water is bold
close to the reef. Another doubtful island in the same latitude is placed in long. 175° 42′
West, from whaler report.
* To the southward of this the following doubtful islands may be noticed:-
Burrows Island, lat. 22° 0′ N., long. 168° 27′ E., rests upon a single announcement in the
China Mail.
An island, in 23° 3′ N., 162° 57′ E., from whaler report.
Deik's Island, 23° 45′ N., 163° 14′ E., probably is the same as Necker Island in West
longitude.
Darker's Island, 22° 24′ N., 163° 5′ E., is evidently meant for the same.
An island, in lat. 31° 19′ N., long. 160° 42′ E., is from whaler report.
Sebastian Lopez or Lobos Island, in lat. 25° 0′ N., long. 158° 0′ E., or 154° 0', is only
known from the old Spanish charts
Tres Columnas or Colunas Island (Spanish charts), in lat. 29° 0′ N., long. 160° 0′ or 162° 0′
E,, is not otherwise known. The latter position was crossed by Capt. Lutke.
A reef, in 26° 0' N., 160° 0′ E., has not since been found.
Volcan Island, on old authority, in lat. 22° 35′ N., long. 160° 0′ E.
La Mira or Laomira, in lat. 20° 25′ N., lon. 164° 15′ E.; Camira (the same name mis-spelt),
in lat. 21° 35′ N., long. 160° 0′ E., have been given on the authority of the Spanish chart of
1743, but cannot now be recognized.
:
Decierta Island, in lat. 20° 10′ N., long. 165° 20′ E. and another Decierta, in lat. 23° 25′
North, long. 160° 45′ E., are unknown, but are near to Wakes Island, page 887.
Otra, in 23° 10' N., 157° 0' E., is not known.
876
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
In all the space between this and the coasts of Japan and Formosa we
have a great number of shoals and islands marked on the charts. As the
existence, or at least the positions, assigned to many or most of these appear
to be very doubtful, there is considerable difficulty in determining on the
point. They would seem to have been inserted on the charts from the uncer-
tain reckoning or observation kept on board whaling vessels, or others of that
class, which, from the very nature of their pursuits, cannot be entitled to
much confidence.
Very many of these supposed discoveries are evidently of the most worth-
less nature, and it would seem almost a waste of space even to enumerate
them. In the great work of Admiral Krusenstern these guesses and mis-
takes are most industriously collected, and their proper value assigned in.
most instances. In the later work published by the U.S. Bureau of Navi-
gation, 2nd edition, 1866, similar reports have been incorporated with the
older notices, and we have followed in many instances that work. It will be
in the memory of most sailors how the chart of the North Atlantic was dis-
figured with "vigias" and supposed islands and shoals. The deep sea
sounding machine has disposed of nearly every one of these terrors to the
navigator. It were much to be desired that the same process could be ap-
plied to the great highways of the North-western Pacific. It is believed that
in the ensuing lists only those deserving of any credence are preserved in the
text. Those which are manifestly spurious are given as foot-notes.
Marcus Island has been shown as a doubtful island, in lat. 24° 25′ N.,
long. 153° 45′ E., but several other announcements of islands are found here-
about. Islands, from whaler report, in 24° 0' N., long. 153° 40' E. Another
island in 24° 5′ N., 154° 10′ E. It was seen by Captain Kilton, in the David
Hoadley, in May, 1868. He describes it as a low level sandy island, covered
with trees and bushes, about 2 or 3 miles long East and West. No breakers
were visible, extending any great distance, from either end; its width was
not ascertained. The position of the West end, by a set of sights, was
24° 24′ N., 153° 58′ E., or 20 miles northward of Weeks Island, and differs
from it in not having any knoll in the centre. We may therefore infer that
they are distinct islands.
Weeks Island, originally a whaler report, was first properly described by
Captain Gelett, in the Morning Star, the Hawaiian mission ship. It was seen
on December 17th, 1864. It is about 5 miles long, densely covered with
trees and shrubbery, with a white sandy beach and a knoll near the centre,
rising about 200 feet above the sea. There were no signs of inhabitants on
it. A reef extends to the North of the island. The position of this fertile
island is important and reliable. It lies directly in the track of whalers
bound from the Carolines to the Sea of Okhotsk. It might be considered
MARSHALL ISLANDS, ETC.
877
that it is the same as Marcus Island, but the descriptions do not coincide.
Captain Gelett's position, which must be taken, is lat. 24° 4′ N., and long.
154° 2′ E.*
MARSHALL ISLANDS (Los Jardines ?).-Two small islands were dis-
covered, in 1788, by Captain Marshall, of the ship Scarborough, whose name
is given to the archipelago to the eastward. They have been thought to be
the same as Los Buenos Jardines of Alvaro de Saavedra, in 1529. Another
group, called Los Jardines, was also discovered by Villalobos in 1543, but
the situation of both of these must be far away from this part, if even they
could be identified. Perhaps it would be better to name them the Scarbo-
rough Islands. They are placed in lat. 21° 40', long. 151° 35' E. By another
report they are in lat. 20° 50′ N., long. 151° 40′ E.
Margaret Islands (Malabrigos), a group of three islands, discovered, in
1773, by Captain Magee, in lat. 27° 20', long. 145° 45'. They have been
considered to be the Malabrigos (bad shelter) of Bernard de Torres, in 1543,
but there is no possibility of deciding on the point, but it is possible that
they were the Volcano Islands.†
Grampus Islands were said to have been discovered by Captain Meares,
April 4, 1788. They consist of two islands close together, and a third to the
S.W. of them. The position of them is not stated by Meares, but Krusenstern
deduces it from his track as lat. 25° 40', long. 146° 40′ E. The position thus
* The following are doubtful:
Wakes Island, in lat. 31° 14′ N., long. 155° 0′ E., a whaler's notice; and a reef, in 31° 18′
N., 153° 20′ E. An island, in 31° 0′ N., 147° 16′ E.
Several others, which need not be enumerated, may be included in the foregoing. It may
be observed that hereabout the strong currents may have caused very bad reckoning, and
it is possible that they may refer to the reefs and islets far to the West, lying South
of Jedo Gulf. See page 625.
Congress Island, in lat. 23° 30′ N. (on the tropic), long. 148° 0′ E., from whaler's
report.
Islands, from whaler report, in 25° 10′ N., 153° 35′ E. A reef, in 25° 28′ N., 152° 40′ E.
An island, from whaler report, 26° 6' N., 154° 36′ E.
A reef, announced in the China Mail in lat. 31° 30′ N., long. 154° 0′ E. Ganges Reef, in
30° 47′ N., long. 154° 20′ E., and three doubtful shoals in 31° 30′ N., 153° 0′ E.: 31° 18′ N.,
154° 0′ E., are most probably repetitions of the same report.
A reef, in lat. 20° 42′ N., long. 155° 0′ E.; and another in 20° 30′ N., 153° 10′ E., may re-
fer to the same. Nothing more is known.
A reef, in lat. 20° 30′ N., long. 152° 50′, on the charts, has been several times repeated,
and once as a sandy bank, once also in East longitude, which is probably erroneous.
† Mararet Islands, a whaler report, in 27° 30′ N., 145° 40′ E., are doubtless intended for
Margaret Islands, but it adds nothing to their authenticity.
878
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
assumed is open to every doubt. But some whaler reports place a group of
islands in lat. 25° 6′ N., long. 145° 44′ E., or 143° 44′ E.
There are so many reports as to the existence of one or more groups here-
about, although some of them are manifestly erroneous, that it must be be-
lieved that there is reason for the assertions. There are no means of fully
deciding about them.*
THE ARZOBISPO OR BONIN ISLANDS.
The Bonin Islands are the next to the northward. At the time of the
opening of Japan to commerce they were made the subject of some remark
as to whom they belong, and therefore a few words respecting this point may
not be irrelevant. There can be but little doubt now that they are the Bune
Sima or Bonin Sima, described by Mr. Klaproth and Abel Rémusat, in
1817, as being discovered by the Japanese, in 1675.
Krusenstern also states that they correspond well with the Ylas del Arzo-
bispo of a work published in Manila many years previously. By right of dis-
covery, therefore they belong first to Japan, and in the second place, pro-
bably, to Spain; the third visitor has been the subject of dispute.
Captain Coffin, of the Transit, of Bristol, in the employ of Messrs. Fisher,
Kidd, and Fisher, discovered them September 12th, 1824 (not in 1825, as has
been stated in this controversy). His nationality and flag have been dis-
puted. He was well known to Mr. Arrowsmith, to whom he communicated
his discovery, and other English geographers, who always considered that he
was an Englishman.
Commodore Perry, in his correspondence and report to his government,
and in his paper, read before the New York Geographical Society, speaks
quite dubiously on this point. In the latter part of his work he says that
he is an American, but does not allude to the account given by Mr. Reynolds,
the projector (unacknowledged) of the United States' Pacific Exploring
Expedition.
Captain Coffin saw the South group in 1824, as stated above, giving the
name of Fisher Island to the largest, and Kidd Island to the westernmost;
* FORFANA, an island said by Galvaom to have been discovered by the ship San Juan, in
1543. There cannot be any doubt of its existence, though the position may be open to
question. It is said to be 30 leagues E. N. of the Volcano Islands. This would give it
lat. 25° 34', long. 143° 0′, but it has not been found here.
Tree Island, lat. 26° 2′ N., long. 145° 50′ E., is called a group of islands, by whaler report,
nearly in this position, and Three Islands by another and similar report, and again as a
group of islands, a degree farther westward, or long. 143° 44′.
THE ARZOBISPO OR BONIN ISLANDS.
879
to two others he applied the names of South Island and Pigeon Island, and
to the harbour he used he gave his own name. Commodore Perry, U.S.N.,
in 1854, doing what he so severely deprecates in others, has superseded some
of these names, giving his own name to South Island, Plymouth to Kidd
Island, and Newport to Coffin harbour. It may be stated that among other
differences, Captain Coffin places the islands 70 miles to the eastward. In
the following year (1825) Captain Coffin discovered the central group, and
refreshed in Port Lloyd. Kater Island, "a lump of an island" as he calls
it, was also discovered at the same time. It was taken possession of for
England by Captain (afterwards Admiral) Beechey, who surveyed the group
in 1827. They were afterwards visited by Captain (now Admiral) Quin, in
H.M.S. Raleigh, who stayed here 10 days in August 1837. They have since
been visited by several men-of-war, in H.M.S. Larne, in 1838, Captain (now
Admiral) Collinson, in H.M.S. Enterprise, in 1851, and the U.S. Expedition
in 1854.
It was colonised in 1830 under the direction of Mr. Charlton, our consul
at the Sandwich Islands. The white settlers landed here June 26th, 1830,
under Matteo Mazzaro, by birth a Genoese, and Millichamp, an Englishman.*
With them were two Americans and one Dane, besides some natives of Oahu.
Millichamp returned to England, and Mazzaro, it is said, is dead, so that at
present, of the original settlers, the two Americans and two Pacific Islanders
are all that remain. The population at the period of Captain Collinson's
visit, amounted to 17 men, 11 women, 2 girls, and 18 runaway sailors,
natives of Oahu; 26 children had been born (21 boys, 5 girls), one half of
whom had died.
We cannot enter here into any speculation as to the sovereignty of these
islands. It is manifest that the Japanese first discovered them, and of
Europeans, the Spaniards have the primary claim. The scandalous outrages
recorded by Captain Collinson to have been inflicted on the helpless settlers
in 1849 and 1850, by the crews of some American vessels, robbing and
destroying the property of the white men, and stealing their wives, aroused
the strongest indignation.
The Japan Expedition has determined the geological character of the
group to be volcanic; trappean rocks are the basis of the islands. Streams
of lava yet are traceable, and basaltic columns appear. Earthquakes occur
twice or thrice a year, and Port Lloyd, the principal harbour, appears to
have been the crater of an ancient volcano, its entrance being a fissure in the
The scenery of the island is romantic and beautiful.
cone.
* Mazzaro and Millichamp's names appear in another part of the world. They were
wrecked, with Goodridge on the Crozet Islands, in the Indian Ocean, in March, 1821, and
figure in Goodridge's "Robinson Crusoe" account of their solitary residence there.
880
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
As has been stated above, they were surveyed by Captain Beechey in 1827,
but the southern group was more particularly examined by Lieut. G. B.
Balch, U.S.N., in the Plymouth, in 1853. From these accounts we give the
following:-
The PARRY GROUP is the northernmost cluster, consists of small islands
and pointed rocks, and has much broken ground about it, which renders
caution necessary in approaching it. According to the survey it is about 9
miles in length N.W. and S.E., and its North extremity is in lat. 27° 44′ 35″
North, long. 142° 7′ East.
Kater Island, North Rock in lat. 27° 31' N., long. 142° 12', is 8 miles
southward of the Parry group. It is a small rocky island, with a conspicuous
islet, the Ears, on its S.W. side,
The BEECHEY GROUP is the principal of the Bonin Islands. They have
been thus named of the English surveyor. He thus describes it :
The middle cluster consists of three islands, of which Peel Island, 44 miles
in length, is the largest. This group is 9 miles in length, and is divided
by two channels so narrow that they can only be seen when abreast of them.
Neither of them are navigable for shipping; the northern on account of rocks
which render it impassable even by boats, and the other on account of rapid
tides and eddies, which, as there is no anchoring ground, would most likely
drift a ship on the rocks. The northern island I named Stapleton, and the
centre Buckland, in compliment to the professor of geology at Oxford. At
the S.W. angle of Buckland Island there is a sandy bay, in which ships will
find good anchorage, but they must be careful in bringing up to avoid being
carried out of soundings by the current. It is named Walker Bay, after (the
late) Mr. Walker, of the Hydrographical Office. The southern cluster is
evidently that in which the whale-ship, commanded by Mr. Coffin, anchored
in 1823, who was the first to communicate its position to this country, and
who bestowed his name upon the port, as has been before mentioned.
As the cluster was, however, left without any distinguishing appellation,
I named it after Francis Bailey, Esq., late President of the Astronomical
Society.
It was visited by the U.S. Japan Expedition, in June, 1853, and the nar-
rative of Dr. Hawks gives us the best account of the islands. Speaking of
the Beechey group he says:-The islands of Bonin are high, bold, and
rocky, and evidently of volcanic formation. They are green with verdure
and a full growth of tropical vegetation, which crowds up the acclivities of
the hills, from the very borders of the shore, which is, here and there, edged
with coral reefs. The headlands and detached rocks have been thrown by
former convulsions of nature into various grotesque forms, which assume to
the eye the shape of castle and tower, and strange animals, of monstrous
size and hideous form. Numerous canal-like passages were observed open-
ing in the sides of the rocky cliffs, which had almost the appearance of being
PEEL ISLAND.
881
hewn out with the chisel, but which were evidently formed in the course of
volcanic changes, when the rock flowed with liquid lava, and found issue in
these channels, which the torrents that came down the sides of the mountain
in the rainy season toward the sea have worn smooth by constant attrition.
Some of these dykes, or canal-like passages, less affected by time and the
washing of the water, still retain their irregular formation, which has so
much the appearance of steps that the observer, as he looks upon them,
might fancy they had been cut by the hand of man in the solid rock, for the
purpose of climbing the mountain. On the southern Head, as it is called,
within the harbour of Port Lloyd, there is a very curious natural cave or
tunnel, which passes through the basaltic rock, from the southern Head to
the beach on the other side. The entrance has a width of about 15 feet, and
a height of 30 feet, but the roof within soon rises to 40 or 50 feet, where it
has so much the appearance of artificial structure, that it may be likened to
a builder's arch, in which even the keystone is observable. There is sufficient
water for a boat to pass from one end to the other. There are several other
caves or tunnels, one of which is at least 50 yards in length, and passes
through a headland bounding the harbour. This is constantly traversed by
the canoes of the inhabitants.
The geological formation of the island is trappean, with its various con-
figurations and mineralogical peculiarities; columnar basalt appears, and
hornblende and chalcedony are found. There are all the indications of past
volcanic action, and the oldest resident of Peel Island stated that two or
three tremblings of the earth, giving evidence of a liability to earthquake,
are experienced annually even now.
Peel Island is the principal of the cluster, and on it are two bays, one
to the S.E., which is clear and deep, except towards the head, where an-
chorage may be had; but of course it is open to the prevailing winds. Its
head runs nearly up to that of Port Lloyd, which is on the N.W. side of
the island, and facing the West.
The island is 4 miles long, and tolerably high-the hills rising in some
places by gentle slopes, in others abruptly by steep ascents; the elevation of
the paps near the North end is respectively 879 and 886 feet. Almost every
valley has a stream, and the mountains are clothed with trees, among which
the areca oleracea and fan palms are conspicuous. The volcanic origin of the
island is clearly manifest from the existence of ancient craters, and basaltic
dykes passing through beds of sand, scoria, and cinders.
Off the S.W. end of Peel Island is Knorr Island, with several islets and
rocks in its vicinity, and northward of Knorr Island are the conspicuous
Sail Rocks, 60 feet high; 12 mile northward of Sail Rocks is the entrance
to Port Lloyd.
The promontory stretching from the N.W. end of Peel Island and forming
the North and West sides of Port Lloyd, is 739 feet high towards its centre,
North Pacific.
3 L
882
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
and 594 feet towards its southern end. The seaward shores are bold and
perpendicular. Westward (southerly) of the latter summit a reef extends
out to the distance of 13 cables from the shore; and rather more than a
cable's length to the northward of this, and at the distance of 2 cables from
the shore, is an outlying rocky patch, having only 6 to 8 feet water on it,
with deep water all round. There is also a reef of rocks off the N.W. point
of Peel Island.
Port Lloyd.-This harbour has its entrance conspicuously marked by a
bold high promontory (southern head 492 feet high) on the southern side,
and a tall quoin shaped rock (square Rock, 260 feet high) on the northern
side. It is nearly surrounded by hills, and it would appear to have been at
one time the crater of an active volcano.
At the upper part of the port there is a small basin, formed by coral reefs,
kept open by streams of water running into it, and which, in consequence
of there being 10 fathoms water all over it, is named Ten-fathom Hole. It is
conveniently adapted for heaving a ship down, and on the whole a most
desirable place of resort for a whale ship.
In most of the small bays in the harbour there are coral reefs and
ledges.
Two cables south-eastward from Square Rock, and 3 cables southward of
the rocky head on the North side of the entrance, are two dangerous shoel
patches, steep-to, and awash with a smooth sea; they can be easily seen from
aloft, however, even when there is no swell on. There is also a coral rock
about a cable's length North from the northern point of Southern Head, on
which are 8 feet water, and there are breakers 3 cables southward of the
South side of the same head. Southern Head is an island at high water.
Directions for Entering.-Having ascertained the situation of the port, steer
boldly in for the Southern Head, taking care not to bring it to the northward
of N. 47° E., true, or to shut it in with two paps on the N.E. side of the
harbour, which will be seen nearly in one with it on this bearing. In this
position they are a safe leading mark. To the southward of this line there
is broken ground.
If the wind be from the southward, which is generally the case in the
summer time, round the South bluff at the distance of 200 yards, close to a
sunken rock, which may be distinctly seen in clear weather. Keep fresh
way upon the ship, in order that she may shoot on end through the eddy
winds, which baffle under the lee of the head; and to prevent her coming
round against the helm, which would be dangerous. The winds will at first
break the ship off, but she will presently come up again; if she does not,
be ready to go about, as you will be close upon the reefs to the northward,
*Keep the top-gallant clewlines in hand.
PORT LLOYD.
883
and put the helm down before the South end of the island, off the port
to the westward, comes on with the high square rock at the North of the
entrance.
If she comes up, steer for a high Castle Rock at the E. end of the harbour,
until a pointed rock on the sandy neck to the eastward of the South head-
land comes in one with a high sugar-loaf shaped grassy hill to the south-
ward of it. After which you may bear away for the anchorage, taking care
not to open the sugar-loaf again to the westward of the pointed rock. The
best anchorage, Ten-fathom Hole excepted, which it is necessary to warp
into, is at the northern part of the harbour, where the anchor is marked on
the Admiralty plan.
In bringing up, take care of a spit which extends off the South end of the
small island, near Ten-fathom Hole, and not to shoot so far over to the
western reef as to bring a rock at the outer foot of the South bluff in one
with some black rocks, which will be seen near you to the south-westward.
The depth of water will be from 18 to 20 fathoms, clay and sand. If the
wind be from the northward, beat between the line of the before-mentioned
Sugar-loaf and Pointed Rock westward, and a North and South line from
the Castle Rock to the eastward. This rock, on the western side, as well
as the bluff to the northward of it, may be shaved, if necessary. The
hand-leads are of very little use in beating in here, as the general depth is
20 or 24 fathoms.
The best watering-place is in Ten-fathom Hole. It is necessary to be
cautious of the sharks, which are very numerous in this harbour. It is
high water, full and change, at 6h 8m; springs rise 3 feet. The station on
the North side of Ten-fathom Hole is in lat. 27° 5′ 35″ N., long. 142° 11′
31" E.
Admiral Collinson, C.B., was here in 1851, and he says, that in making
the island from the southward, he experienced a difficulty in discovering the
remarkable quoin mentioned by Captain Beechey as the mark for the har-
bour on the South side, being under the shadow of the high land at the back.
No difficulty, however, can be experienced by a stranger making the harbour
from the southward, as the bold bluff on the South side is sufficiently re-
markable, and the two paps which Captain Beechey gives as a leading mark
for clearing the rocks outside of the harbour will sufficiently denote its po-
sition. Besides that, among the detached rocks to the southward, are two
pinnacles, and over the remarkable quoin, on the North side as you enter, ist
a triple peak. We shot in close under the bluff, but did not see the shoal off
it (it will not do, therefore, for vessels to trust to the eye to pick this danger
up), and then had baffling winds until we opened South Bay, when we edged
*This rock is white on the top with birds' dung, and looks like an island.
3 L 2
884
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
away to the North, and came-to off the entrance to Ten-fathom Hole in 25
fathoms; a better berth will be found a cable's length closer to the reef on
the West side.
Fitton Bay, at the S.E. angle of Peel Island, enclosed by perpendicular
rocks, is 1 mile deep, and nearly a mile wide at the entrance. There is
anchorage at the upper end in 17 fathoms, sand, at the distance of 2 cables
from the shore, secure from all winds except those from S.E. On the North
side of the entrance there is a large and conspicuous islet, connected to the
North bluff of the bay by a reef on which are several small rocks. Outside
the harbour there are also some sunken rocks to the southward of the en-
trance, on which account ships should not close the land in that direction, so
as to shut in the two paps (at the N.E. angle of Port Lloyd) with the South
bluff of the bay; with these objects open there is no danger. At the upper
end of the bay, on the West side, there is a small and narrow cove, with 6
fathoms water at the entrance.
Fitton Bay is frequently visited by whalers for wood and water.
From a point on the East side of Peel Island a reef of rocks stretches to
the northward, terminating at a small islet in lat. 27° 5' N.; one-third of a
mile to the north-westward of the islet is a detached patch and rock. The
channel between Peel Island and Buckland Island, to the northward, is un-
safe. Nearly fronting this channel, one mile westward of the West entrance,
is Goat Island, in lat. 27° 7' N., about 300 feet high, in the vicinity of which
are several rocks and small islets; one-third of a mile to the southward of
Goat Island there is also a small group of very low islets.
Buckland Island, to the North of Peel Island, and the central one of
Beechey group, is 3 miles long N.W. and S.E. At the S.W. angle of the
island, close to the opening of the channel between it and Peel Island, is a
small sandy bight named Walker Bay, in which ships will find good anchor-
age; but they must be careful in bringing up, to avoid being carried out of
soundings by the current. The islet on the West side of this bay is con-
nected to the main by the reef. Westward of the West point of Buckland
Island, and five-eighths of a mile north-westward of the islet just mentioned,
is Little Goat Island, which is also connected to the main by a reef. The
channel between Goat Island and Little Goat Island is over half a mile wide,`
and safe by not borrowing too much towards either shore.
Stapleton Island, the northernmost of the Beechey group, is, like the
others, of volcanic origin. It has a varied surface of plain, hill, and valley,
with large tracks of fertile lands. There is a small bay on the western side
with apparently deep water, and surrounded by rocks and mountains,
varying from 800 to 1,500 feet in height, which protect it from the S.E.
typhoons.
BAILEY GROUP, the southernmost of the Bonin Islands, was thus named
BAILEY GROUP-FISHER ISLAND.
835
by Beechey. The respective islands of the cluster were named by their
discoverer, Capt. Coffin, as hereafter stated. "With the proverbial modesty
and justice of
surveyors, Commodore Perry replaced the original
names by his own for the southernmost, and of his officers to the others."
Fisher Island was named by Coffin in 1823, after one of his employers.
It is called Hillsborough Island by Commodore Perry. A survey was made
by Lieut. G. B. Balch, U.S.N., in 1853. He of course uses the new names
applied by the surveyors. In taking his descriptions we have restored the
original names, adding the recent ones in parentheses.
Fisher Island, the largest of the Coffin group, is 7 miles in length, by
about 14 in breadth, and 1,471 feet high. The greater portion of it is rocky
and hilly, and unsuited for agricultural purposes. That portion of it which
could be cultivated is a black loam, and produces sweet potatoes, yams, taro,
and Indian corn, bananas, pine-apples, water melons, and limes. Sweet
potatoes form the staple support of the few inhabitants of the island. Hump-
back whales resort to these islands from November till May, during which
time they are calving. Turtles are found in abundance in season, and are
salted down by the inhabitants in lieu of beef.
Close to the northernmost point of Fisher Island is Devil Rock, from
which a reef stretches nearly a mile to the north-westward. At the distance
of three-quarters of a mile south-westward of the rock, is the N.W. point
of the island, off which is Sugar-loaf Rock, with dangerous rocks and reefs
stretching some distance seaward. On the West side of the island, midway
between its extreme points, are two small indentations in the coast-line, off
which are two small islets. Half a mile to the southward of the southern
indentation is Pyramid Rock, close to the shore; nearly a mile south-west-
ward from the Pyramid is Painted Rock, three-quarters of a mile from the
coast, the intervening area being encumbered by rocks (one of which is
arched) and by reefs; these form part of the northern boundary of Coffin
Harbour (New-port), an open bay on the West side of Fisher Island, near
its South end.
Stretching to the south-westward from the south-west point of Fisher
Island is a continuous line of reefs and islets, terminating in a long but
narrow island. The outermost extreme of this island with its outlying reefs,
is 2½ miles from the S.W. point of Fisher Island; thence a rocky patch
to the north-westward, in the direction towards Mid-channel Rock, which rock
is also surrounded by rocky patches; half a mile to the northward of Mid-
channel rock is Kidd (Plymouth) Island, which is a mile long, N.N.E. and
S.S.W., and half a mile wide. Kidd Island fronts and partially shelters
New-port; the channel between it and the main island (Fisher) on the North
is deep and 12 mile wide; that to the South, between Kidd Island and
Mid-channel Rock, is less than half a mile in width, but safe (having 10
fathoms) by not borrowing too much towards the rock. Whether the chan-
886
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
nel between Mid-channel Rock and the island to the south-eastward is ac-
cessible is uncertain, it appears by the chart to be considerably encumbered
with rocky patches which narrow the passage.
To the S.S.E. of Fisher Island, at the distance of 3 miles, is Kelly Island,
1 mile long East and West, and half a mile wide. To the north-eastward of
Kelly Island, at the distance of half a mile, is another small island, with a
reef off its East extremity. Several islets and a reef of rocks also stretch
some distance northward from the N.W. point of Kelly Island to the centre
of the easternmost island, making the channel between the two impassable.
Off the West end of Kelly Island there is a small rock, and the depth is
25 fathoms.
West of Kelly Island, at the distance of 2 miles, is South (Perry) Island
1 mile long N.E. and S.W., and about half a mile wide. The channel be-
tween South Island and the island to the North is a mile wide; the islets
(Needles) in the channel near the North side of South Island have rocky
patches around them; there is also a rocky patch three-quarters of a mile
south-eastward from South Island, opposite two rocks near the shore.
Coffin Harbour.-With the exception of this and a small cove just to the
northward of it, there is no place on the shores of any of the islands suitable
for a coal depot; nor can either be recommended as places suitable for
such a purpose. They are both open from S.W. to N.W., and the hold-
ing ground is not good, being sand and rocks. Vessels could, however,
always get to sea on the approach of a gale, as there are two safe passages,
which are very plain.
In the centre of the harbour, there appears to be no bottom with 24
fathoms.
It is high water in Coffin Harbour, at full and change, at 11h 32m, and
the rise of tide is 3½ feet.
VOLCANO ISLANDS.
This remarkable group of three islands lies to the southward of the Bonin
Islands, at from 95 to 150 miles distance, and forms a continuation of that
line of volcanic fires which show themselves at intervals from Kamtchatka
southward, through the eastern part of Japan, and the range of islets to the
S.E. of Nipon, and then in the Bonin Islands.
These three islands were discovered in 1543 by Bernardo de Torres, and
received their name from the volcano on the central one. There can be no
doubt of their being the same as the Sulphur Islands of Captain King, in
1779. They were also seen by Captain Krusenstern, in the Nadiéjeda, in
1805. On the Spanish charts the northern island is called San Alessandro ;
the centre, Sulphur Island; and the southern, San Augustino. Espinosa says
VOLCANO ISLANDS-SULPHUR ISLAND.
887
that the southernmost was seen in 1804, by the Spanish corvette La Concep-
cion, and named San Dionisio, a name by which, according to him, it has
always been distinguished by the Spanish navigators.
San Augustino (or San Dionisio), the southernmost, is a single mountain
of a square form, flat at the top, and 396 feet high. Admiral Krusenstern's
observations, and he was near it for two days, place it in lat. 24° 14′,
long. 141° 20′, which is 7' 30" South of that given by Captain King; so
that unless a fourth island lies in that latitude, a thing most improbable, we
must suppose that the error arose from the distance at which it was seen
in 1779.
Sulphur Island is the central one. It is about 5 miles long in a N.N.E.
and S.S.W. direction. The South point is a high, barren hill, flattish at the
top, and when seen from the W.S.W. presents an evident volcanic crater ;
the soil of which its surface is composed exhibited various colours, a consi-
derable part of which was conjectured to be sulphur, both from its appear-
ance and the strong sulphureous smell perceived as the point was approached.
Some on board the Discovery thought they saw steam rising from the top of
the hill. A low, narrow neck of land connects this hill with the South end
of the island, which spreads out into a circumference of 3 or 4 leagues, and
is of moderate height. The part near the isthmus has some bushes on it,
and has a green appearance, but that to the N.E. is very barren and full of
large detached rocks, many of which were exceedingly white. Very dan-
gerous breakers extend 2 miles to the East and 2 miles to the West, off the
middle part of the island, on which the sea breaks with great violence. The
position of Sulphur Island, according to Captain King, identical with that of
Admiral Krusenstern, is lat. 24° 48', long. 141° 13'.
San 'Alessandro, or the North island, is also a single mountain of
considerable height, like the southern one. It is peaked, and of a conical
shape, lat. 25° 14', long. 141° 11'.*
From these islands the volcanic energies appear to diverge into several
directions to the S.S.E. towards the Mariana Islands, well known as a range
of volcanic summits, the intervening space being marked with two or three
small reefs, whose position, however, are open to some doubt.
It also appears to continue to the S., towards the Pelew Isles, for on Dec.
25, 1848, Mr. Lindsay, of the schooner Amelia, discovered an apparently vol-
canic island or rock, in lat. 19° 20′ N., long. 141° 15′ E. To the S.W. there
* To the southward of the Volcano Islands are the following doubtful announcements:—
A reef, from whaler report, is twice announced as in mean lat. 22° 6' N., long. 142° 27′ E.
Peru, Parece, or Three Islands, in lat. 21° 20' N., long. 141° 40′ E, may be Euphrosyne
Rock.
Valetta Reef, lat. 21° 0' N., long. 143° 0′ E., is not known.
888
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
are evidences of a submarine volcanic action in the rock "like a sail," seen by
the Lieut. commanding the Euphrosyne, May 2, 1851, and by the commander
of the Linda also in 1851; lat. 21° 43', long. 138° 30′ E. Beyond this we
have the dangerous Vela, Parece Vela, or Douglas or Bishops Rock-two
shoals often announced as fresh discoveries, and a rock discovered by Meares
of fur-dealing notoriety. A singular phenomenon was experienced by Lieut.
Jones, commanding the U.S. sloop of war St. Mary's, in January, 1850,
when in lat. 20° 56' N., long. 134° 45′ E., the wind suddenly died away, the
sea became troubled, the air heated, and a sulphureous smell became very
apparent. This lasted about twenty-five minutes, and then the wind came
out as before.
These last are further alluded to presently.
DISAPPOINTMENT or Rosario Island lies to the westward of the Bo-
nin Islands. It was seen and named in the Nautilus in 1801, and again on
September 25, 1813, in the Spanish corvette, La Fidelidad. It was also seen
by Captain M. Quin in H.M.S. Raleigh, August 11, 1837, in lat. 27° 13′ N.,
long. 140° 46′ E. Commodore Perry, U.S. Japan Expedition, places it in
27° 15′ N. and 140° 56′ 30″ E., or mean 27° 14′ N., 140° 52′ 15″ E.
The island is about three-quarters of a mile long (N.E. by N. and S.W.
by S.), and the highest point, near the centre, 148 feet. Around it are
several detached rocks, two of which are a short distance off its extreme
points; and a reef extends one-eighth of a mile to the southward of the
southernmost one. It is of volcanic formation, bold, broken, rugged, gene-
rally barren, and apparently unsusceptible of cultivation, but there are some
small patches of green about the top. The surf breaks heavily all around
it, and landing is impracticable. From a distance of 10 miles it appears as
two islands.
LINDA or EUPHROSYNE ROCK is a remarkable pinnacle seen by the
Linda and the Euphrosyne in 1851. It was on each occasion said to look
like a ship under sail. The mean lat. is 21° 43′ N., long. 140° 50′ E.
Meares Reef is said to lie in lat. 21° 0' N., long. 136° 45′ E.
DOUGLAS REEF, or Parece Vela.-Douglas Reef was discovered on
September the 15th, 1789, by Captain Douglas, and is 5 miles in extent
in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, in lat. 20° 37′ N., long. 136° 10′. These
rocks, and those seen by Captain Bishop in the Nautilus, in 1796, in lat.
20° 15', long. 136° 54', are probably the same as those named Parece Vela
and Vela, by the older Spanish navigators. The rocks seen by the Nautilus,
like all bare rocks, appeared like a vessel under sail, and thus might have
been called Vela (a sail), or Parece Vela (a sail in sight!). On Anson's chart
these hold the same relative position as the Douglas and Nautilus Reefs, and
DOUGLAS REEF.
889
therefore the name of Parece Vela has been added to the discovery of Capt.
Douglas, and Vela to that of Capt. Bishop.
An American discovery has been announced as lying half a degree to the
North of Douglas Reef; but its true character and position have been well
ascertained. Capt. B. Sproule, of the Maria, examined it in his boat, March
18, 1847.
He says:-I found it to consist of a narrow perpendicular wall
of coral, enclosing an oblong lagoon of deep water. I rowed along its whole
length, which I should say was 2 miles by three-quarters of a mile wide at
one-third from the eastern point. Sharp heads of pointed rock appeared
frequently through the surf; and one isolated rock of about 12 feet high
and 15 feet broad rose from the smooth water of the lagoon, near its western
extreme, with the rock bearing E.N.E. I put the boat through the narrow
channel in the reef of not more than 3 feet;-this was the only opening I
saw, and had it not been very still under the lee, this would never have
shown. High breakers were rolling over the northern and north-eastern
parts. When the boat was on the wall I had 3 ft. water; by packing two
lengths, 17 fathoms; two lengths more, no bottom with a whole line. The
South side is nearly straight, in an E. by S. S. and W. by N. N. direc-
tion. The rock when seen from the ship, 3 miles off, appeared exactly like
a boat's tanned lug. Its position is lat. 20° 31′ N., long. 136° 6' E. Nothing
can be more dangerous than this reef, from its extent; its neighbourhood
ought to be approached with the greatest caution in dark and blowing
weather; and in the months of November, December, January, and part of
February, it blows very hard, with thick weather; but in fact, all the
passage from the Sandwich islands to the coast of China requires the
greatest caution. Innumerable sperm whale were playing about the reef,
and the sea was perfectly alive with fish of many descriptions. Sharks were
also very numerous.
It was also seen by Captain Steele, of the Sebastian Cabot, in 1867, as a
reef extending in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction for 5 miles. There are
two isolated rocks near its western end; the westernmost about 20 ft., and
the other about 15 ft. above water, distant from each other about a quarter
of a mile. It is a very dangerous reef in stormy or cloudy weather, as it
can be seen but a very short distance; the position of the westernmost rock
is about lat. 20° 28′ N., long. 136° 17′ E.
Captain Ludwig Saabye, of the Benjamin Howard, saw it and the breakers
plainly from the deck, distant about 6 miles. He considered it very dan-
gerous. Lat. 20° 25′ N., long. 136° 2′ E., from good observations.
The probably correct position will therefore be about lat. 20° 30′ N., long.
136° 10′ E.*
Bishop, Nautilus, or Vela Rocks, were discovered by Captain Bishop,
* At about 80 miles W. by N. from this the submarine volcanic evidences noticed on
page 888 were felt in 1853.
890
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20' N.
in the Nautilus, in 1796. They do not appear to have been seen since.
Lat. 25° 20′, long. 131° 15'.
Kendrick Island was seen by an English captain of that name. It is
low, and about 6 miles long; lat. 24° 35', long. 134° 0' E. A small, low
island was seen by the brig Hannah Cheever, in 24° 33′ long. 132° 40', about
midway between the foregoing and Rasa island. It may refer to either, or
it is possible that there may be but one island.
RASA ISLAND is a small, low island, covered with bushes, and sur-
rounded with rocks, 4 or 5 miles long in a N.W. and S. E. direction. It was
called Rasa (flat) on board the Spanish frigate Magellan, in 1815, but it had
been seen in 1807 by the French frigate La Cannonière. The lat. given
was 24° 26′ 40″, and the mean of the two longitudes 130° 40′ E. It has
been also seen by several others. Of these may be noticed Mr. Symington,
in the Lancashire Witch, in 1856, who places it 24° 26' N., long. 131° 5 E.
Captain Dixon, of the Joseph Sprott, says that it is 34 miles long S.S.W. and
N.N.E., generally low, the highest part about 220 ft. high, covered with
very short brushwood, and having very deep water all along its western
side; lat. 24° 30′ N., long, 131° 11′ 45″ E. Besides these accordant state-
ments may be added the report of Capt. Norville, of the brig Argyle, who
says it is a mile long, with a reef projecting from its northern side nearly a
mile, and a rock to the East near the shore, lat. 24° 23′ N., long. 131° 0′ E.
The barque Aurora says it is 5 miles long North and South, lat. 24° 29′ N.,
long. 131° 12′ E. The mean of these positions may be taken as 24° 27′ N.,
long. 131° 1′ 50″.
BORODINO ISLES were discovered by Lieutenant Ponafidin, in 1820.
He places them in lat. 25° 56', long. 131° 15′.
They have been surveyed by Commodore Perry, of the U.S. Japan Expe-
dition. They were made on the 22nd of June, 1854, directly ahead, and
were found to be two in number, situated 5 miles apart, and lying in a
N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. They appeared to be of coral formation, but
of great antiquity, as trees of considerable size crowned the uplands, the
most elevated part of which may have been 40 ft. above the level of the
sea. The navigation in the immediate neighbourhood seemed free of dan-
ger, but no indentations were seen in the surrounding shore which might
afford safe anchoring places. No signs of people were discovered, and it is
presumed that the islands are uninhabited. The position of the extremity
at the South of the southern island was estimated to be in lat. 25° 47′, aud
long. 131° 19' E.*
* The following will conclude the list of doubtful islands.
South Rowan Island, a whaler report, in lat. 27° 4' N., long. 139° 50′ E., is doubtless in-
tended for Rosario Island to the castward.
( 891)
ISLANDS SOUTH-WEST OF JAPAN.
On page 598 we have given descriptions of the south-western coasts of
Kiusiu and of Cape Chichakoff. The islands southward of it have been
partially examined by French officers, and adapted to the Japanese charts
and names.
TANEGA SIMA the largest island to the S.E. off this cape, is 20 miles
long; but little is known of it. It is said to be level and covered with trees.
It appears to extend from lat. 30° 22′ to 30° 43′, and from long. 130° 54′ to
131° 5' E. The northern part is low, with smooth, rounded, undulating hills.
There is the outline of a good harbour on its western side.
YAKUNO SIMA, is 14 miles W.S.W. of Tanega. Its highest peak, Mount
Motomi, is 5,848 ft. high, in lat. 30° 21′ N., long. 130° 29′ E., and shows double
from the eastward. The island is about 12 miles long North and South,
but it has not been examined.
Yerabu Sima (Julie Island) has an active volcano, 2,067 ft. above the sea.
Its highest peak is in lat. 30° 27′ N., long. 130° 11′ E. The island is about 6
miles long, E.S.E. and W.N.W., and its greatest breadth 3 miles.
Seriphos or Omuru Rock is marked as under water, in lat. 30° 44′ N., long.
130° 45′ E.
Take Sima (Apollos Island) is comparatively low, and about 2 miles in
circumference; its centre is in lat. 30° 48′ N., long. 130° 24′ E. A rocky
spit extends about a quarter of a mile from the East point of Take Sima.
Iwoga Sima (Volcano Island) is an active volcano; its highest peak, 2,345
ft. above the sea, is in lat. 30° 42′ N., long. 130° 17′ E. Some reefs extend
about three-quarters of a mile from the eastern points of Iwoga Sima.
Powhattan Reef. This dangerous reef, in lat. 30° 41′ N., long. 130° 19′
East, was discovered by the U.S. frigate Powhattan, in January, 1860.
From the centre rock, about 18 ft. above the sea, the S.W. point of Iwoga
Sima bore N.W., the East point N. W., and the East point of Take Sima
N.E. N.
Rosa Island, a whaler report, in lat. 24° 25′ N., long. 138° 56′ E., is not known; it may
be an error for long. 130° 56′ E., and so refer to Raza Island, which is probable.
Dolores Island, lat. 23° 50′ N., long. 134° 12′ E., is not known.
A reef, in lat. 23° 20′, long. 131° 15′ E.
Akin Reef or Shoal, reported by Captain Akin, of the ship Winthrop, to be a mile long
N.E. and S.W., with but few breakers on it in fine weather. Lat. 20° 37' N., long. 132°
2′E. It should be observed that several well-known ships have passed over its position.
A shoal, in 26° 55' N., 131° 36′ E., was not found by Capt. Marsh, of the Viscount Sandon
in 1851.
Abre-ojo, lat. 22° 0' N., long. 129° 15', from the old Spanish chart, has not been found.
Amsterdam Island, 25° 25′ N., 131° 0′ E., may be Borodino Island.
892
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
Other rocks were seen awash, or a few feet above water, stretching out
about three-quarters of a mile from the centre rock.
Trio Rocks are three distinct islets of about an equal height; the centre
islet, 223 feet above the sea, is in lat. 30° 45' N., long. 130° 5′ E.
KURO SIMA or Sta. Clara rises to the height of 2,132 feet; its centre is
in lat. 30° 50′ N., long. 129° 55′ E.*
The Ingersoll, Morrison, or Larne Rocks, eight in number, extend N.E. and
S.W. about 5 miles: the highest, 446 ft. above the sea, is in lat. 30° 51′ N.,
long. 129° 26′ E., and visible in clear weather at 25 miles.
THE LINSCHOTEN ISLANDS.
A line of volcanic islands extends 120 miles S.W. of Yakimo Sima. They
were entirely omitted on modern charts, but they are clearly shown in the illus-
tration to the third book of the "Voyage ofte Schipvaert van Jan Huygen
van Linschoten" (of Enkhuysen), published at Amsterdam in 1595-6.
Several particulars of the adjacent islands are given in this work, but there
was some difficulty in applying them. In August, 1845, Sir Edw. Belcher,
H.M.S. Samarang, first brought them to notice again. On August 13th, he
landed on one of these terra incognita, the same on the 14th, and met with a
disaster. The islands were (nearly) all named and placed on his charts.
Contre-Amiral Cécille examined them in the French corvette, La Sabine,
and he gave them a second set of names, calling the range the Cecille Archi-
pelago. The native names have been ascertained, and thus they possess three
distinct sets of designations, which, for distinction sake, we must repeat
here. The first the native, second the English, third the French.
Blake Reef (Lapelin Rocks) consists of several distinct islets and rocks,
extending about 3 miles in a N.E. and S.W. direction; the highest islet, 90
ft. above the sea, is in lat. 30° 5′ N., long. 130° 3′ E.
Kutsino Sima (Jerabout or Alcmene), is 2,116 ft. above the sea; highest
part is in lat. 29° 59′ N., long. 129° 55′ E.
Kohebi Sima (Forçade Rock), 984 ft. above the sea, is in lat. 29° 53′ N.,
long. 129° 36′ E.
Hebi Sima (Dundas or St. Xavier) rises to the height of 1,820 ft. The
peak is in lat. 29° 55′ N., long. 129° 32′ E. There is a small islet off its
N.W. face.
.
* This small and lofty island was one of the marks used by the "Portingales" in sailing
from Macao to "Langasaque or Nagasaki in early days. It is frequently mentioned by
Linschoten (anno. 1596), and marks are given to distinguish it from Meac-sima (As sete
Irmaas), the other landfall.
THE LU-CHU OR LOO-CHOO ISLANDS.
893
NAKA SIMA (Pinnacle or Pacifique) is 3,287 ft. above the sea; its peak
is in lat. 29° 53′ N., long. 129° 50′ E.
Fira Sima (Disaster or Victorieuse), lying W.N.W. of Suwa Sima, is 879
ft. high, and in lat. 29° 41′ N., lung. 129° 31′ E.
SUWA SIMA (Volcano or Archimède), is an active volcano, 2,805 feet
high, in lat. 29° 38′ N., long. 129° 42′ E.
Akuisi Sima (Samarang or Acoucheki), 2,184 ft. above the sea, is in lat.
29° 27′ N., long. 129° 35′ E.; a small islet lies off its N.W. face.
The Simago (Cooper or Sabine group) are four small islets, the highest of
which, 738 ft. above the sea, is in lat. 29° 13′ N., long. 129° 19′ E. The
easternmost islet bears from it about E. N. 3 miles.
TOKARA SIMA (Pennel! or Toukara), 885 ft. above the sea, is in lat.
29° 8' N., long. 129° 11' E.
YOKO SIMA (Ogle or Cleopratre), rising to the height of 1,623 ft. above
the sea, is an extinct volcano, the highest part of which is in lat. 28° 49′ N.,
long. 128° 59′ E.; there is a small islet, Kaminone (Royalist), about a mile
northward of it.
THE LU-CHU OR LOO-CHOO ISLANDS.
A group of very irregularly formed islands succeeds the Linschoten group
to the southward. The principal islands were well known, but it may be
observed that Oho-sima (Harbour or Bungalow Island) has been generally
omitted from the charts, and this has led to much confusion.
Sandon Rocks were discovered by the ship Viscount Sandon, 8th December,
1850, on her passage from Singapore to Shanghai. The highest rock is
about 20 ft. above the sea, with two low detached rocks to the westward,
and a reef between them. At a quarter of a cable's length from their N.W.
side were 12 fathoms water, and at half a mile to the N.W. 15 to 22 fathoms
with overfalls over an uneven coral bottom. No other dangers were visible.
Their position is given as lat. 28° 44′ N., long. 129° 38′ E.
OHO SIMA, or Harbour or Bungalow Island, is the largest of the chain of
islands lying between Great Lu-chu and Japan. It is about 30 miles in
length, N.E. and S.W., is high, well cultivated, and, from the number of
villages seen along the coast, must contain a large population. There
are two peaks on its South end, 1,674 and 1,420 feet respectively above
the sea.
This island was partially surveyed by the American squadron in 1856.
The outline of its coasts appears much broken, and deeply indented with.
numerous bights, most of which are very bold.
Wood and water are good
and plentiful; but refreshments scarce. The inhabitants are timid and
894
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
harmless. The North end is high, and being connected with the main part
of the island by a narrow, low isthmus, it has the appearance, on some
bearings, of being isolated. Foul ground appears to extend about 2 miles
N.E. by E. from the North end, and two rocks to rise from it, the northern
of which is about 80 feet high. North extreme of the island, lat. 28° 31′
South extreme, lat. 28° 6′ 30″ N., long.
40" N., long. 129° 40′ 12″ E.;
129° 22′ E.
The South end of the island is separated from Katona Sima by a narrow
channel, in some places not more than half a mile wide. At its western
entrance is Vincennes Bay, a small bay formed at the North end of Katona
Sima.
By three days' observations in Vincennes Bay, it was high water, full and
change, at 7h 30m, and the rise and fall 5 feet.
Kikai Sima, lying about 15 miles S.E. of the North end of Oho Sima,
is moderately high, about 7 miles in length, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and
inhabited. The summit (867 feet high), is in lat. 28° 18′ N., long. 129°
57½ E.
Germantown Reef.-The U.S. ship Germantown, 23rd March, 1859, when
beating along the S.E. side of Oho Sima, struck on a coral reef said to lie
in lat. 28° 16' N., long. 129° 58′ E. From the shoalest spot found, 6 feet,
the highest terrace on Kikai Sima bore N.E. E. 6 or 7 miles. The
reef is about a mile long in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and half a
mile wide.
Another shoal spot was found lying North 2 miles from the centre of this
reef, with apparently a clear passage between. Reefs were also seen from
aloft, extending from 1 to 2 miles from the S.W. and S.E. points of Kikai
Sima.
TOK SIMA of Siebold, or Crown Island of Broughton, in 1797, highest
or southern peak, lat. 27° 44′ N., long. 128° 59′ E.; height, 2,461 feet.
This island is 14 miles long North and South, and 7 miles East and West.
Its northern peak is 2,034 feet above the sea. A village is built on its
N.W. face.
Iwo Sima, or Sulphur Island, in lat. 27° 51' N., long. 128° 14′ E. (128°
19' E. by Collinson), height 541 feet, is a volcanic mountain, still in
action.
Yeirabu Sima of Siebold, or Wukido of Basil Hall, South peak, lat. 27°
* In the American chart Germantown Reef is placed 24 miles S. by W. W. from the
S.W. extreme of Kikai Sima, or in lat. 28° 14′ N., long. 129° 53′ E.; and there is another
danger, named Marsh Reef, 1 mile southward of it.
THE LU-CHU ISLANDS-OKINAWA SIMA.
895
21′ N., long. 128° 31′ 34″ E.; height 889 ft. (lat. 27° 14' N., long. 128° 33′
by Collinson in 1845).
Yori Sima, or Julo of Basil Hall in 1816, centre, lat. 27° 2′ N., long. 128°
25′ 24″ E.
The Lu-chu or Liu-kiu islands, to the N.E. of the Meiaco-sima group,
consist of one large island, Okinawa Sima, surrounded by smaller ones.
The charts are derived from the Japanese chart, published by P. Von
Siebold, in 1852, and therefore must not be implicitly depended on. They
have been frequently visited and described, especially by Captain Basil
Hall, who gives a long account of them; by Captain Beechey (voyage of
the Blossom, vol. ii, chap. xvii.); Sir Edward Belcher, voyage of the Sama-
rang, vol. ii.)
KERAMA ISLANDS.-To the westward of the South end of Okinawa sima
are the Kerama islands, the Amakirrima of Basil Hall in 1816, and Kera
Sima of Siebold. The group consists of four islands, Zamami, Accar, or
Yakai of Siebold, Ghiruma and Twkaschi, of which all but the last are very
small.
Captain Mathison, of H.M.S. Mariner, in 1849, states, "that in the chart
of the Kerama islands there are six islands marked with apparently clear
passages between them; whereas, as well as could be judged, there must be
a greater number, and all the spaces between them appear filled will reefs
and breakers. There is a shoal lying between the East Kerama island and
the S.E. end of Okinawa sima, the breakers on which were clearly visible.
Reefs also extend eastward about 5 or 6 miles from the N.E. point of Kume
sima, the island lying to the W.N.W., on one of which the ship Elizabeth
and Henry was lost."
The small coral islands lying off Napha-kiang road are called Tzee (Kei of
Siebold), and Reef islands by Captain Basil Hall.
OKINAWA SIMA, or Great Lu-chu Island, is about 56 miles long N.E.
and S. W., preserves a tolerably uniform breadth of about 10 or 12 miles,
and is well inhabited. The North end is high and bold, with wood on the
top of the hills. The N.E. coast is also abrupt but quite barren, and the
N.W. side rugged and bare. The S.E. side is low, with very little appear-
ances of cultivation. The South, S.W., and western coasts, particularly the
two former, are of moderate height, and present a scene of great fertility
and high cultivation, and here the mass of the population reside.
NAPHA-KIANG ROAD.-Napha, on the S.W. side of Okinawa, is the
principal sea-port of the island, and perhaps the only one possessing the
privileges of a port of entry. The inner, or Junk harbour, carries a depth
of 2 to 3 fathoms, and though small, is sufficiently large to accommodate
with ease the fifteen or twenty moderate sized junks which are usually found
moored in it. The outer harbour, or Napha-kiang road, is protected to the
eastward and southward by the main land, whilst in other directions it is
896
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
surrounded by merely a chain of coral reefs, which answer as a tolerable
breakwater against a swell from the northward or westward, but afford,
of course, no shelter from the wind. The holding ground is so good,
however, that a well-found vessel could here ride out almost any gale in
safety.
Abbey Point, the South extremity of the road, may be known by its
ragged outline, and by a small wooded eminence, called Wood Hill, about 13
mile South of it. The main land here falls back and forms a bay, which is
sheltered by coral reefs extending northward from Abbey Point; they are
however, disconnected, and between them and the point there is a channel
sufficiently deep for the largest ship.
Nearly in the centre of this channel, outside withal, there is a coral bank
named Blossom Reef, with a good passage on either side. The South channel,
between it and Abbey Point, should be adopted with southerly winds and
flood-tides, and the Oar Channel, between Blossom and Oar Reefs, with
the reverse. A reef extends from Abbey Point to the S.W., and also to the
northward. When off Abbey Point, Kumi Head, a rocky headland, will be
seen about 1½ miles North of the town; and upon the ridge of high land
beyond it are three hummocks to the left of a cluster of trees. In the dis-
tance, a little to the left of these, is Mount Onnodake, in lat. 26° 27′ N.
A remarkable rock, which from its form has been named Capstan Head,
will next appear; and then to the northward of the town a rocky head,
with a house upon its summit, called False Capstan Head. At the back of
Capstan Head is Sheudi Hill, upon which the upper town, the capital of Lu-
chu, is built.
An abundance of water can always be obtained at the fountains in Junk
River, where there is excellent landing for boats. There is a good spring
near the tombs at Kumi Bluff; but unless the water is quite smooth, the
landing-place is impracticable.
A black spar buoy is moored on Blossom Reef halfway between its eastern
and western extreme; a red spar buoy on the point of reef W.N.W. of
Abbey Point; and a white spar buoy on the S.E. extreme of Oar Reef.
Flags of corresponding colours are attached to all these buoys, and they
afford good guides for the South and Oar Channels. There are two large
stakes on the reefs eastward and westward of the North channel, planted
there by the natives, this being the channel mostly used by junks trading to
the northward. The spar buoys may be displaced, or entirely removed by
the heave of the sea, and should therefore not be relied on.
It is high water, full and change, in Napha-kiang Road, at 6h 30m, and
the rise is from 5 to 7 ft.; but this was very irrugular during the Blossom's
stay at this anchorage.
As may be readily understood, it is difficult to give intelligible directions
for this complicated harbour without the chart.
NAPHA-KIANG ROAD.
897
There are three passages leading into Napha-kiang Road, named the
North, the Oar, and the South Channel. To sail by the South Channel, be-
tween Blossom and Abbey Reefs, having well opened Capstan Head, haul
towards Abbey Reef, and bring the right-hand hummock about half a point
eastward of Kumi Head; this mark will lead through the South Channel,
in about 7 fathoms, over the tail of Blossom Reef. A vessel may now round
Abbey Reef tolerably close, and steer for the anchorage in 7 fathoms, about
half a mile N.N.W. of False Capstan Head. Care must be taken to avoid
the Ingersoll Patches, on which there is only a fathom water. Should the
wind veer to the eastward in the South Channel, with the above mark on,
do not stand to the northward, unless the outer cluster of trees near the
extremity of Wood Hill is in line with, or open westward of Table Hill, a
square rocky headland to the southward of it. This mark clears also the
tongue of Oar Reef.
The best anchorage is in Barnpool, at the N.E. part of the road, in 7
fathoms, where a vessel may ride with great security. The outer anchorage
would be dangerous with strong westerly gales.
The following directions for the South Channel are by Lieutenant S. Bent,
of the U.S. Japan American Expedition, 1853. He found two patches of
only 2 and 1 fathoms water; the former named Lexington Reef, lying
W. S., 1 mile from Abbey Point; and the latter of 1½ fathom, W.S.W.
1 mile from the point :-
The clearest approach to Napha-kiang Road from the westward is by
passing northward of the Kerama Islands and sighting Agenhu Island,
which will be recognized by its wedge-shaped appearance; from thence
steer a S.E. course for the road, passing on either side of the Reef Islands;
being careful, however, not to approach them too near on the western and
southern sides, as the reefs below water in these directions are said to be
more extensive than is shown on the chart.
After clearing the Reef Islands, steer for Wood Hill on a S.S.E. bearing
until getting upon the line of bearing for the South Channel. This will
lead well clear of Blossom Reef, yet not so far off but that the white tomb
and clump of trees or bushes southward of Kumi Head can be easily distin-
guished. An E. by N. N. course now until Abbey Point is in one with
outer trees will clear S.W. rock, when haul up for Kumi Head, and select
a berth about half a mile northward and westward of False Capstan Head.
This channel, being quite straight, is better for a stranger entering the har-
bour than the Oar Channel, which, though wider, has the disadvantage of
its being necessary for a vessel to alter course some four or five points, just
when she is in the midst of reefs which are nearly all covered.
If the wind be to the north-eastward it will be advisable to beat through
the Oar Channel, in preference to the South Channel.
A good mark to run through this channel is to bring the centre of the
North Pacific.
3 M
$98
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
island in Junk Harbour (known by the deep verdure of its vegetation) to
fill the gap between the forts at the entrance of that harbour, and steer a
S.E. E. course, until Capstan Head bears East, when haul up E.N.E., and
anchor as before directed.
The North Channel is much contracted by a range of detached rocks ex-
tending from the reef on the West side, and should not, under ordinary
circumstances, be attempted by a stranger, as at high water the reefs are
almost entirely covered.
Sailing from Napha during the N.E. monsoon, it will be better to pass
round the South end of Great Lu-chu, in order to avoid beating through the
Montgomery group, of which there is no reliable survey; they are said to
consist of five islands, surrounded by reefs. But with a southerly wind and
fine weather it will be to the advantage of a vessel bound to the Bonin
Islands to pass round the North end of Great Lu-chu, where she will feel
the influence of the current, which will assist her to the eastward.
Deep Bay-at the head of which is the observatory spot of the U.S. ship
Vandalia, 1854, in lat. 26° 35' 35" N., long. 127° 59′ 42″ E.-is formed on
the western side of Great Lu-chu, and although open to the West and S.W.
affords good anchorage off the town of Naguh, about half a mile from its
head; for winds from these quarters rarely blow home, and if they do they
never raise a sea, as the latter is broken by the great depth of the bay.
Suco or Setei Island, lying about a quarter of a mile from the N.W. coast
of Great Lu-chu, to the northward of Deep Bay, has excellent anchorage
between its eastern side and the coast, protected from all winds, and wood,
water, and fresh provisions can be easily procured.
Port Onting, or Melville, is on the N.W. part of Great Lu-chu, and its
entrance is between the eastern side of Kui or Herbert Island and the western
side of the reef fronting the peninsula, and which projects 5 or 6 miles to
the westward, having a small islet near its extremity. Iye sima or Sugar-
loaf island, lying about 12 miles westward of the entrance, is a good guide
for it, the island being low and flat, with the exception of a sharp conical
peak rising 561 feet above the sea, at its eastern end. Good water can be
obtained at the village of Onting. In Port Onting it is high water, full and
change, at 6h 35m, and the rise is about 8 feet.
In entering, steer for the western shore of Kuï Island until Hele Rock
is in line with Double-topped mountain (a distant double-topped hill, the
second highest of the range), bearing S.E.S. Steer in on this mark,
until Chimney Rock bears S. E.; then for Chimney Rock until Rankin
point bears S.W. W.; then for that point until the port is entered, when
anchor, giving the vessel room to swing clear of the reef extending north-
ward of Rankin point, and she will be as snug as if lying in dock, with
good holding ground, completely land-locked, and sheltered almost entirely
from every wind.
MEIACO-SIMA ISLANDS.
899
Shah Bay, about 8 miles E.S.E. of Port Onting, is a beautiful land-locked
sheet of water, but the reef fronting the entrance prevents its being accessi-
ble to vessels of larger size than the junks which frequent it; within the
entrance the water deepens to 12 and 8 fathoms, the bottom being soft mud.
On the southern shore of the bay was found iron ore, mineral coal, and sul-
phur. The coal appeared of poor quality and mixed with earth, but good
coal might perhaps be found by digging.
Barrow Bay is a deep inlet, bounded by shoals, near the middle of the
eastern coast of Great Lu-chu. The following description is by Lieutenant
G. B. Balch, of the U.S. ship Plymouth, 1854.
A. reef, of coral formation and bold to approach, commences 5 miles from
the South point of Great Lu-chu, and extends in an unbroken chain, outside
all the small islands, as far as the N.E. point of Ichey Island, with the ex-
ception of a narrow channel between the islet off the N.E. end of Kyoko or
Kudaka Island, and the island of Taking. Ichey Island forms the south-
eastern point of Barrow Bay, which is useless for all purposes of navigation,
being exposed to the East winds and ocean swell. There is, however, secure
anchorage in about 15 fathoms water on the western sides of Ichey, and of
Hanadi, the next islet to the southward; this anchorage is the only place
of shelter on the eastern coast of Great Lu-chu.
MEIACO-SIMA ISLANDS.
This group forms the westernmost portion of a chain of islands extending
in an easterly and north-easterly direction from Formosa to the southern
extremity of Japan, and is divided into two divisions, Pa-chung-san and
Taï-pin-san. The Pa-chung-san or western division, consists of ten distinct
islands, of which five only are at all mountainous; the remainder are flat,
like the coral islands in the Pacific, and similarly belted with reefs, which
connect them into a distinct group. Besides these there is Chung-chi Island,
a high uninhabited mass of rocks; and to the W.N.W. of it Kumi Island,
conspicuous by the peculiar sharpness of its lofty peak, 770 ft. high, and
table base.
KUMI ISLAND is composed of coralline limestone, all its ranges are
capped with trees and brushwood, but excepting the pine fir, which contains
a great portion of resin, none attain any size. There are four villages on the
island, one on the West, and two on the North side, one of which is inland,
in a basin-shaped valley. The principal town and port is on the North side.
Temporary anchorage, in fine weather, may be found on a sandy ledge
northward of the town.
A dangerous shoal, 3 miles in extent, East by North and West by South, is
reported as lying N.W. by W., distant about 10 miles from Kumi.
3 M 2
900
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
Breakers have also been seen apparently on a dangerous shoal, extending
East by South and West by North, and bearing from Kumi, S.W. by W.
31 leagues distant.
KU-KIEN-SAN and PA-CHUNG-SAN ISLANDS afford several commo-
dious harbours, and are, with good charts, quite safe of approach. Port
Haddington, on the West side of the latter island, would shelter a large
fleet, but it abounds with coral patches, rising suddenly from 10 or 15 fa-
thoms almost to the surface; in clear weather all those having as little as 5
fathoms are clearly discernible, and therefore easily avoided. Except on the
northern side of Ku-kien-san and the latter port, watering would be found
very difficult, as reefs extend a great distance from the mouths of the streams.
Seymour Bay, at the S.W. angle of Ku-kien-san, must also be excepted, for
there a fine stream enters the sea in deep water, and a vessel might be
moored sufficiently close to lead the hoses from Hearle's pumps into her,
without the intervention of boats and casks.
With respect to the various harbours of Ku-kien-san, there are two or
three adapted for shelter for small vessels, or even those drawing 18 feet,
where a refit might be accomplished in still water in any monsoon, or where
steam vessels might lie safely for the purpose of obtaining wood; and there
are two other open bays, well sheltered in the N.E. monsoon, admirably
adapted for watering; but there is not any other inducement to visit this
island. All the dangers are well marked by the coral fringe which extends
about a cable's length from the outline.
Of the dangers on the northern side of this group, it would not be prudent.
that any vessel should run the risk of being hampered by the shoals, and
therefore should not come farther eastward, when beating up for Chusan,
than to sight Chung chi Island. The currents as these islands are approached
press more southerly and easterly than those that are experienced on the
coast of Formosa, and stronger breezes prevail as a vessel advances easterly
Indeed it blows incessantly at this western group.
The islands composing the Taï-pin-san (or Ty-ping-san) or eastern divi-
sion, are Taï-pin-san, Yer-ra-bu, Ku-ri-mah, Coruma, and Hummock Island.
The two islets, Mitsuna and Tarara, between Taï-pin-san and Pa-chung-san,
are said to be a continuation of the reefs which extend to the N.E., N.,
and N.W. of Taï-pin-san, and on which H.M.S. Providence was lost in 1797.
Captain (Sir Edward) Belcher looked in vain for Ykima Island.
TAI-PIN-SAN ISLAND is surrounded by an extensive chain of coral
reefs, upon which the islands of Ku-ri-mah, Yer-ra-bu, Coruma, and Hum-
mock respectively are situated to the West, N.W., North, and N.E. The
reefs do not project far westward from Ku-ri-mah, unless in patches un-
connected with the main belt. Off Yer-ra-bu they extend 3 or 4 miles,
but close towards its north-western angle, where a deep water channel
admits vessels within the belt up to Hummock Island and into the main har-
TAI-PIN-SAN ISLAND.
901
bour of Taï-pin-san. The reefs again spit out on the S.W. angle of Coru-
mah, and sweep northerly, as far as the eye can reach (from 100 feet eleva-
tion), round to East in continuous lines of breakers, edging in towards the
south-east extremity of Hummock. A high patch of rocks lies on the
N.E. angle of this outer belt, probably 10 miles from the northern point
of Taï-pin-san.
Safe anchorage during the S.W. monsoon might be found inside the reefs
of Hummock Island, and also safe in the other monsoon; but the passage in
or out at that season would be attended with risk, as sudden squalls, gales,
and numerous patches beset the whole eastern side of Taï-pin-san. The
southern coast line, from the south-east breaker patch to the south-west
anchorage, does not offer many dangers if a tolerable look-out be observed.
The reefs do not extend more than half a cable from the shore, and gene-
rally less.
There can be no inducements for any vessel to visit Taï-pin-san; neither
wood, water, nor any other necessaries could be procured.
Capt. (Sir Edward) Belcher, H.M.S. Samarang, December 1844, says:—
Great caution is requisite in approaching the Meiaco-sima group from the
N.E., East, or South, particularly with fresh breezes, and in the absence of
the sun, by the aid of which reefs below water can be detected. They are,
from their greenish hue, being covered by seaweed, less distinct than at other
places, and therefore, where they are not marked on the chart, it must not
be presumed that the space is free from danger; the lead will not afford
timely warning.
Approaching the group from the S. W., the island of Ku-kien-san from its
great height will be first distinguished, presenting a round-backed summit
closely clad with trees; knolls occur, elevated 2,000 ft. above the sea, but as
they seldom present the same appearance, owing to those nearer the coast
eclipsing them, their accurate measurement could not be obtained; Adam
Peak, which may be noticed on the south-eastern outline, was determined to
be 1,200 ft. As the island is neared, the high rocky basaltic island of Chung-
chi will show out when the western limit of Ku-kien-san bears N.E. by N.,
and working for this islet no danger can be feared, and should night be-
fal, all the space on the north-west of Ku-kien-san up to the island of
Kumi is safe.
The Samarang entered the group from the westward, passing within two
miles of the southern reefs or breakers off Hasyokan or Sandy Island, and
standing on close hauled to the eastward, intending to make Ykima, and
beat up from it to Taï-pin-san. On the morning following, not seeing Ykima
(which is supposed not to exist), and the weather very boisterous, she stood
on to the westward to get under the lee of Pa-chung-san, and endeavour to
reach some place of shelter. On nearing the latter island she ran down t
902
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
eastern and southern side, reaching the south-western extremity of its ree
about 4 p.m.
Here was a barrier of breakers as far as the eye could reach from the mast-
head, and apparently connecting Hasyokan Island with the group of larger
islands. An opening, however, was found into the reef, and after due ex-
amination the vessel was shot up into 13 fathoms, into Broughton Bay,
and warped into a snug position, where she was moored with just suffi-
cient room to swing, the depths up to the coral ledges varying from 13
to 7 fathoms.
Broughton Bay.-The only directions which will assist the seaman in
finding this snug little anchorage (safe only, however, during the N.E. mon-
soon) are as follows:
Approaching from the westward, as Chungchi is neared, Hasyokan or
Sandy Island will soon be seen, and avoiding the space included northerly of
a line between Chungchi and it, a vessel may safely stand on, passing within
one mile of the southern limit of Hasyokan, and work for the S.W. angle of
Pa-chung-san, avoiding the reefs, which extend from it in a direct line N.E.
and S.W. to Hasyokan. A high rock, named South Rock, will point out the
outer reefs of Pa-chung-san. The dangers between it and Pa-chung-san
must be avoided by eye, the shoals being visible in 5 or 6 fathoms, and
breaking upon those of 2 and 3 fathoms. The opening of the reef is in the
heart of a deep indentation, just northward of the low S. W. point of the
island, and it has apparently a centre bar. The right-hand opening is the
proper one.
From the eastward there are no dangers which are not clearly visible.
After making the land edge along the southern and eastern breakers until
the abrupt turn of the breaker line is seen, at which moment the extreme
S.W. point of the bay will open. The breakers have regular soundings off
them, but the course in will probably lead in 7, 8, or 9 fathoms, deepening
to 14 or 15 off the inlet. As the breeze generally blows out, it will be advi
sable to send a boat to find clear ground off the opening, and shoot up and
anchor. The vessel may then be warped in. But if merely intending a cur-
sory visit, the outer anchorage appears good.
At Broughton Bay, neither wood nor water can conveniently be pro-
cured; and the only reason for noticing it is, that a port of refuge with
still water, in case of disaster, may be found on this side of the island;
when a disabled vessel could not beat round to the more secure harbour of
Port Haddington.
There is a passage from Port Haddington into Broughton Bay, which
was used by H.M.S. Lily and Contest, in 1852, but it abounds with coral
reefs.-Commander J. W. Spencer, H.M. sloop Contest.
Port Haddington.—No safe anchorage is to be met with between Broughton
Bay and Port Haddington, which is on the West side of Pa-chung-san ;
PORT HADDINGTON.
903
although during the S.W. monsoon there are several good bays on the
northern side of the island, where anchorage might be found, but certainly
not adapted for refit.
When rounding the north-eastern extremity of Pa-chung-san the two low
coral islets of Mitsuna and Tarara ought to be avoided at night, but the
dangers by day are clearly denoted by breakers. To the northward of
these islets the ground is foul, and the Samarang was compelled to tack to
the westward in 7 fathoms, at least 10 miles North of them.
Proceeding from Broughton Bay to Port Haddington, after rounding the
N.E. end of the Pa-chung-san breakers, and running to the westward the
length of the island, haul close round the N.W. angle, and edge along
southerly within about a mile of the breakers. The port will then open
out, into which, with the prevailing breeze of the N.E. monsoon, it will be
necessary to beat. Off Hamilton Point, the North point of the port, will be
seen a remarkable little rocky hummock upon which was left a large pile of
stones. The bottom, for more than a mile off the point, is rocky and dan-
gerous; but as all the dangers off this port are visible from aloft, there is
no risk with a proper look-out. There is abundance of excellent anchorage
without, and where the vessel will be land-locked. The Samarang an-
chored about a mile or less within Hamilton Point, in 10 fathoms, clear
bottom.
This is a most convenient port during the N.E. monsoon. It is land-
locked, it is true, but there is a long fetch for the sea with a south-west
gale, and in that season typhoons are said to be very violent about this
region.
A convenient watering-place was established by sinking a cask and sus-
pending the suction hose of Hearle's pump over it, so as to prevent the sand
from being sucked in. Here wood is abundant, and the position is farther
preferable by being so far from the villages as to prevent the authorities
from feeling alarmed.
Sir Edward Belcher strongly suspects that extensive banks or ledges of
coral connect these islets (northerly) with Taï-pin-san; and a good reason
for this offers in the fact of their being included by the natives in the
Taï-pin-san group, when they are much closer, by half the distance, to
Pa-chung-san.
The observatory at the S. W. angle of Taï-pin-san (at the most convenient
landing-place within the reefs, and the last rocky point towards the long sandy
bay) is in lat. 24° 43′ 35" N., long. 125° 17′ 49″ E.
To the north-westward of the Meiaco-sima group, and north-eastward of
Formosa, are several islets and rocks, apparently volcanic, which have been
only properly known of late years, and even to the present time their cor-
rect number and positions are not absolutely determined. The principal are
those to the westward, Hoa-pin-su and Pinnacle, and the Ti-a-usu Islands
904
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.
which are about 15 miles apart, in a N.E. and S. W. direction. Within this
space are several reefs, and although a safe channel exists between Hoa-
pin-su and the Pinnacle Islands, which are two miles apart, it ought not (on
account of the strength of the tides destroying the steerage) to be attempted
by sailing vessels if it can be avoided.
HOA-PIN-SU is the south-westernmost, and is about 95 miles E.N.E.
from Kelung Harbour, at the North end of Formosa. The extreme height
of Hoa-pin-su is 1,181 ft., the island apparently being cut away vertically
at this elevation, on the southern side, in a W.N.W. direction; the remaining
portion sloping to the eastward, where the inclination furnished copious
rills of excellent water. The North face of the island is in lat. 25° 47′ 7″
N., long. 123° 30′ E. There are no traces of inhabitants, indeed the soil is
insufficient for the maintenance of half a dozen persons.
The Pinnacle Group, which is connected by a reef and bank of soundings
with Hoa-pin-su, allowing a channel of about 12 fathoms water between it
and the Channel Rock, presents the appearance of an upheaved and subse-
quently ruptured mass of compact gray columnar basalt, rising suddenly
into needle-shaped pinnacles, which are apparently ready for disintegration
by the first disturbing cause, either gales of wind or earthquake. On
the summits of some of the flat rocks long grass was found, but no
shrubs or trees. The rocks were everywhere whitened by the dung of
marine birds.
Ti-a-usu, bearing N.E. northerly 15 miles from Hoa-pin-su, appears to be
composed of huge boulders of a greenish porphyritic stone.
The capping
of this island, from about 60 feet to its summit, which is about 600 feet
above the sea level, is covered with a loose brushwood, but no trees of any
size.
4
RALEIGH ROCK.—The existence of this rock was considered doubtful
before July, 1837, when it was seen by H.M.S. Raleigh, bearing S. W.,
distant 12 or 14 miles. Its position by her reckoning was about latitude
25° 57′ N., long. 124° 2′ E., but later authorities place it 9' farther eastward.
It rises abruptly from a reef to a height of 90 ft. above the sea, is perpen-
dicular on all sides, covers an area of probably 60 ft. in diameter, and appears
in the distance as a junk under sail. Sir Edward Belcher states that the
weather would not allow him to fix its position, but that as he found it lying
upon the computed bearing, as given in the charts, from Ti-a-usu, its position
cannot be much, if at all, in error.
RECRUIT ISLAND.-At about 30 miles eastward of the Raleigh Rock,
another lofty island was apparently first seen on March 11, 1861, by Captain
J. Lyall, in the Recruit. It appeared, at a distance of 10 miles, to be 600 ft.
in height, the same size and height as Ti-a-usu,
RECRUIT ISLAND.
905
It was again seen in 1863 and 1864 by Captain R. Tatchell, in the brig
Speedy, and he says that when it bears West at 4 leagues distance, it has the
appearance of two rocks. Captain Crowdace, in the ship King Lear, describes
it as only 90 feet high, rising very abrupt; and when bearing West, northerly,
a small rock standing erect, like a pillar in ruins, was seen detached from
the North side.
The four observations for its position coincide very nearly, and give a
mean of lat. 25° 57′ 40″ N., long. 124° 43′ E.
This will conclude our descriptions of the islands of the North Pacific
Ocean. The reader has been brought around its shores from Equatorial
America along the sea boards of its American and Asiatic boundaries, past
countries of most widely opposite characteristics and interest. The islands
which lie between these coasts have also been enumerated and described,
and in these varied subjects we feel how great has been the increase in our
knowledge and in their importance in the interval of 20 years, since the first
edition of this book was issued.
The continuation of its western limits is included in the companion
volume, the Directory for the Indian Archipelago, China, and Japan. The
various archipelagoes, the Philippine Islands, and the eastern groups of that
great insular world which bound the Pacific to the westward, are there
fully described.
(906)
SECTION IV.
THE PHENOMENA OF, AND DIRECTIONS FOR THE
NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN,
THE preceding pages having been devoted to directions, more or less ex-
tended, of the features of the coasts and islands of the North Pacific, and
including, incidentally, many notices of the peculiarities of the climate, and
meteorology of each region, there remains to be given a general view of the
meteorology of the ocean in a broader sense. But in a few words it may be
said that the arrangement of the phenomena in the North Pacific is so simple
and these are so easily applied to the service of navigation, that the ensuing
remarks need not be enlarged upon, further than is needful to give a con-
nected view of the subject.
To
What follows will be a brief account of the N.E. trades and the Anti-trade
winds as experienced in the open ocean, and then a few remarks additional
to what have been before given on the various sections of the coast.
these will be added an account of its currents, tides, and magnetism, and
the concluding chapter will be devoted to the application of these
phenomena to the best mode of making successful passages between the
various ports.

60
110
120
13 0
140
150
170
160
C. Navarin
THE
NORTH PACIFIC
OCEAN
Shewing the
approximate limits of the
TRADE WINDS
and CALMS.
ཚ》“
R. Amur
Okhotsk
Tansk B.
OKHOTSK
Ghijinsk B.
G. of Tartary
C.Elizabeth
SEA
Saghalin
Island
C.Patience
KAMCHATKA
C.Lopatka
S
I
A
Kurile.
La Perouse Str.
Islands
50
A
سوم.
Yeso
Anadir
Sea
bring
Norton Sa
150
St Lawrence
C. Romanzof
A LA SK
A
St Matthew
Karaginski 1
BEHRING
C. Kamchatka
Petropaulovski
Bhering I.
8 Attu I
B
18
Tschegula de
SEA
Tanaga Pass
Atcha I.
Amukhia Pass
ALEUTIAN
ARCHIPELAGO
Bristol B.
Pen
aska Pen
B
os. Ounimale Pass
Fox Ids
SOUTH-WEST OR ANTT RA DE
40
30
20
Pekin
G. of Pe chili
Shanti
Korea
YELLOW?
SEA
Nankin
Shanghae
CHIN A
Amoy
Canton
Formosa Chi
Chusan
Nagasaki
Kiusiu
Loo-Choo g
Ids
Hakodadi Tsugar Strait
JAPAN SEA
NAI P
Siskok
JAPAN
Vedo
ISLANDS.
Fatsizio
Limit of thBonin Ids:
Borodino I.
Volcano Ids
W
:Margaret Ide
Grampus Ide
Monsoon in
+
+
+
August
Los Jardines
+
3
Formosa
می کیا میں
Hong Kong
Bashee Ids
+
CHINA
.Paracels
N. E. Monsoon hidayet to Mar.
Luzon S. W. Monsoon from May to Sept.
PHILIPPINE
SEA
+
Mariana
N
Ο
R
20
N limit
T
+
N. limit of the N. E. Trade Wind in
July
Morell I
Byer Id
May
Kodiak Ids
140
130
120
110
100
Pr. William sa
Admiralty B.
Chesterfield Inlet
Slave L.
Cross S
sa
P.Houghton
Sitka Id
Churchill F
Prof Wales Idon
Observatory Inlet
Port Nelson
Q. Charlotte Id
Q. Charlotte Sa
RoyalIds
BRIT COLUMBIA
N
R T
0 R
H
R.
WIN D
S
S
WASHINGTON
Nootka
Vancouver Id
Juan de Fuca St.
Jan Mar
Summer
Astoria
Fraser
سم
ictoria
Pugets sd
Colombia R.
OREGON
Feb-Apr
of
N E Trade
Wind in
October
Dec
Fr Frigate
+
Jan
Tropic of Cancer
Kauai
Sandwich Ids
Honolulu
30
Wake I
H
Hawan
tif
E
A S
S
T
T
R
A
D
E
W
N D
Smyth Ids
S limit
of
Johnston
the
NE Trade
Wind
in
September
July
10
+
Sarawak
XXX
ISLANDS
Palawan
1 Sulu
Sea
Mindanao
Celebes
Sea
BORNEO
10
10
по
Java Sea
Jaya
Mackenzie Ide
NW MonsonPelew Icember
Giloto
Ceram 1
Flores Sea o
Rf
or
S.Bartolomeo
Ladrone Ids
Guam
Bigar
CAROLINE
ISLANDS
Marshall
E
[[]]]
Islands
Seniavin Ida
Consoon Jan.
Sumbawa
Timor
120
Arafura Sea
130
Mysory fa
Admiralty Ids
PAPUA OR NEW GUINEA
140
+
New Areland
Salomon
New
Britain
+
150
160
Oct Feb
Q
U
A
I
Q
R
O
S. limit Barber L. E. Trade Wind
GA
L
M S
Pitt I.
Atlantic I.
Gilbert Ids
in
Marh Diana Sh.
Palmyra
S E. Trade Wind in Sep
N limit of
New York 1 December
July
&
Walker Ide
February
Christmas I
Ocean 1.
.D
Byron I
Phoenix
North limit of
S. E. Trade Wind in Dec. Jan.
Equator
Le Maire Ids
S
O
Ids
+
& Motuiti
170
180
U
T H
Ellice
Ids
E
A
S
T
T R A DE
W
N
Islands
+
Starbuck I
17 0
Penrhyn
160
150
R.H. LAURIE, 53, FLEET STREET, LONDON.
C.Blanco
C. Mendocino
May-Sept
Farollones
Nov Mar
San Francisco
90
to face page 907.
80
0
Southampton
Id
HUDSON
BAY
Mosquito
Bay
160
Severn Fort
C. Henrietta Maria
A Richmond E
C. Jones
Albany
Ft
F Main
Moose
F
50
CANADA
L. Superior
L.Michigan
Huron
A M E RI
M
C
L. Bric
P. Concepcion
Sta Rosa
CALIFORNIA
S.Luis
P. San Diego
Guadalupe 1.8
Cerros 1.4
Montreal
L.Ontario
New York
Washington
UNITED STATES
TEXAS
New Orleans
Mobile,
Savannah
FLORIDA
Galveston B
Tampa B.
GULF
OF
M
E X
τ
ལ་དོག་མི་་་སུམ་
California
Matamoras
C
MEXICO
CSan Lucas
Tres Marias
Revilla Gigedo Ids
Gulf of
Campeche
Merida
Colima
Mexico
Belize"
N W. Monsoon
Nov
Apr
Mor
Jan.
Clipperton I
Acapulco
G. of Tehuantepec
Reefs
Havana
40
Charleston
C.Canaveral
30
Bahama
Ids
C
20
G
of Honduras
Jamaica
Guatemala
Salvador
Fonseca B.
Leon
I. or Nicaragua
G. of Nicoya
Cocos s
G.of Dulce
S. W. Monsoon in Winter
Galapagos
Jds
86
CARIBBEAN
C Gracias a Dios
SEA
G.of Darien
Aspinwall
Panama B.
10
C. Corrientes
Buenaventura
Quito
Guayaquil
Payta
Marquesas Ids
140
130
120
no
100
90
80
Truxillo
10
(907)
CHAPTER XIV.
1. THE WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
THERE is a general analogy between the meteorology of each of the great
oceans, especially of the Atlantic and Pacific. This has been dilated on in
each of the series of Directories, of which this forms a part, and therefore
does not require much discussion here. In our North Atlantic Memoir es-
pecially, Section III, pp. 177-216, the arrangement of the wind-zones and
the causes which lead to this arrangement are fully described. In the volume
on the Indian Ocean, Chapter I, pp. 1-76, the peculiarities of that ocean
are shown, differing as it does from the other great water areas in having
the great continent of Asia at its northern boundary, on the division between
the wind and current systems of the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.
To this physical peculiarity the phenomena of the changing monsoons is
owing.
The North Pacific more resembles the North Atlantic than the other oceans
in its meteorology, but differing from that ocean in not having any connexion
with the Arctic area, for the passage of Behring Strait is too shallow and to
narrow to affect the general question. Further than this, the great area of
the Pacific seems to exercise a deadening effect on the motive forces of the
atmospheric and ocean currents which pass over it, both being of a more
moderate character than in the Atlantic.
There are very considerable variations from the normal condition of the
winds when near the land, where the effect of heat and season so greatly
modify the aerial currents as to produce real monsoons on either side of the
ocean. Many of these exceptional cases have been noticed in the preceding
pages; others will be alluded to presently.
The general anemological arrangement of the North Pacific is thus:-
To the northward of about lat. 30° (a parallel varying with the season) are
found the S.W. anti-trade winds; between that parallel and lat. 7° or 10° N.
(also varying with the sun's declination) is found the N.E. trade wind, and
:
穆
​908
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
between the last-named parallel and the northern point of the S.E. trade
wind is a narrow belt of calms or variable winds, to which the name of
"Doldrums" has been applied; it is a well-known belt of difficulty to the
sailor.
Captain Maury says: "It has a mean average breadth (around the globe)
of about six degrees of latitude. In this region the air which is brought to
the Equator by the N.E. and S.E. traders ascends. This belt of calms
always separates these two trade wind zones, and travels up and down with
them. If we liken this belt of equatorial calms to an immense atmospherical
trough, extending as it does entirely round the earth; and if we liken the
N.E, and S.E. trade winds to two streams discharging themselves into it, we
shall see that we have two currents perpetually running in at the bottom,
and that, therefore, we must have as much air as the two currents bring in
at the bottom to flow out of the top. What flows out of the top is carried
back North and South by these upper currents, which are thus proved to
exist and to flow counter to the trade winds."
The belt of calms follows the sun in his annual course, though the limits do
not range so much in latitude as the sun does in declination, and generally
they pass from one extreme of latitude to the other in about three months.
The whole system of wind and calm belts move northward from the latter
part of May till some time in August; they then remain almost stationary
till the approach of winter, when they commence to go southward, and pro-
ceed in that direction from December till February or March.
Owing to the unequal distribution of land and water in the two hemi-
spheres, the relative proportions being in the northern hemisphere 100 land
to 150 water; and in the southern 100 land to 628 water; and, owing to the
great influence that the presence of land has on the aerial currents, the
division of the two wind systems is always to the North of the Equator,
that is, the mathematical and meteorological equators do not coincide.
The extent of the trade winds in latitude is usually considered to be from
30° S. to 30° N., but these limits are subject to so many variations, that
such a statement must be received with great limitations. We have not the
means of drawing such a close approximation to a true mean as can be done
in the Atlantic Ocean, from the fewer recorded observations, but the follow-
ing table is given by the late excellent Ch. Ph. de Kerhallet, of the French
Marine, as the result of 92 vessels which have crossed the line between the
longitudes of 106° and 147° West.
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
909
Table of the limits of the N.E. and S.E. Trades, and the breadth of the interval
between them in each month.
TRADE WINDS.
Polar Limit.
Equatorial Limit.
Of the N.E. Of the S.E. Of the N.E. Of the S.E.
Breadth of the
intervening
zone of calms,
&c.
Lat. N.
Lat. S.
Lat. N.
Lat. N.E.
O
January
21
0
33 25
6 30
3 0
3 30
February
March
26 28
28 51
4
1
2 0
2 1
29
0
31 10
8 15
5 50
5 25
April
30 0
27 25
4 45
2
0
2 45
May
June
29
5
28 24
7 52
3 36
4 16
27 41
25
0
9 58
2 30
7 28
July
31 43
25 28
12 5
5
4
7 1
August
29 30
24 18
15 0
2 30
12 30
September
24 20
24 51
13 56
8 11
5 45
October
26
6
23 27
12 20
3 32
8 48
November.
25
0
28 39
December
24 0
22 30
5 12
1 56
3 16
It will be seen according to this table, that the polar and equatorial limits
of these trade winds vary with the season, and remove further from or
nearer to the Equator, according as the sun has North or South declination;
and that the breadth of the intervening zones is less in winter than in the
summer of the northern hemisphere. In other respects this zone has much
resemblance to the corresponding belt in the Atlantic. It is in reality
broader on the meridians of 90° to 110° than further to the westward, those
of 120° to 150° W. longitude; that is to say, the breadth of the calm zone
diminishes according as you advance westward, precisely analogous to the
wind system in the Atlantic, the recent knowledge of which has had such a
marked influence on the trans-equatorial voyages.
The term calm-belt is not precisely applicable to these equatorial "dol-
drums," because, besides calms and light airs, variable between N.W. to
South by the West, storms, gales, and abundant rain are frequently
encountered.
910
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
Owing to the land influences before alluded to, the northern limit of this
zone is at the mean in lat. 8° N., and its mean southern edge is on 3° N.
But it sometimes occurs that the two trade winds meet each other without
any intervening space of variables or calms.
The North-east Trade Wind needs but few remarks. Beyond the space on
the eastern part of the ocean, where land influences modify or reverse its
usual character, it is found to blow with steady but moderate force over the
whole of the eastern part of the ocean. Towards its western part, that is,
beyond and about the Marianas, it is less certain, and here the vanishing
effect of the S.W. and N.W. monsoons are sometimes felt. But in this part
of the ocean our knowledge is somewhat deficient, a subject of less regret,
seeing that it is comparatively but little traversed. The illustrative diagram
will afford the best insight into its area and limits in the various seasons.
On its northern edge lies the Hawaiian group, which in alternate seasons
is within its effects, or in the belt of tropical variables.
The S. W. Anti-trade or Passage Winds, which occupy all the northern part
of the ocean, will require still fewer words. It has all the general charac-
teristics of the similar wind in the Atlantic, and perhaps is more persistent
on the western side of the ocean. But here it is very much affected by the
vast area of land it passes over, and reaching the ocean as a very dry and
cold wind, it has a correspondingly severe effect on the climates of the
northern parts of Japan, Saghalin, the Sea of Okhotsk, &c., which are
proverbially inclement, and for a long period of the year completely ice-
bound. On reaching the open ocean, where the great return stream, called
the Japanese Current, runs to the north-westward, carrying with it the
warmer water of the tropical latitudes, this cold and dry wind so condenses
the warmer vapours which hang over the current, that they are condensed
into almost perpetual fogs. A similar and well-known region is found in
the vicinity of the Banks of Newfoundland, but here these fogs extend far
to the westward, and envelope more or less continually the extensive ranges
of the Kurile and Aleutian Islands.
Dissolving these vapours and acquiring further humidity, and also in-
creased temperature, in its further progress to the eastward and north-
eastward, it is found on the Alaska coasts as a warm, rain-bearing wind,
which deposits its abundant moisture on the coasts and islands of that
hitherto unfrequented region, recently ceded to the United States by Russia.
Further to the southward, the territories of British Columbia, the climate,
as is well known, is not subject to extremes of heat and cold on the coast
regions, but within the range of mountains, which intercept much of this
anti-trade wind, and consequently of its warmer moisture, the climate is
much more severe. Of California, one of the finest countries in the world,
and possessing every advantage of mild temperature and sufficient moisture,
we have spoken elsewhere. A few words will follow.
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
911
As before said, the action of the land on these different aerial currents is
very great, and can only be understood by a special description of each dis-
trict. The following selection is given to afford this insight.
CENTRAL AMERICA.-On pages 4 and 5 are given some general remarks on
the climate of the western coast of the great American peninsula. The
following is by the late Lieut.-Comm. Jas. Wood, R.N., who surveyed por-
tions of the coast in H.M.S. Pandora. The first part of these observations
refers to the coast to the southward of Panama, but will be useful to sailing
vessels making this difficult port.
GUAYAQUIL RIVER TO GUASCAMES POINT.
The Intertropical.-Along the whole of the coast from the River Guayaquil,
in 3° S., to Guascames Point, in 2° N., the wind is mostly from South to
West all the year round; the exceptions are few, and generally occur in the
fine season. Both in beating up this coast to the southward, and in running
down it, the former in the months of May and June, the latter in those of
October, November, and January, we had the wind from S.S.E. to West
(by the South), with a constant current to the north-eastward, the only dif
ference being that the winds were lighter, and the weather finer in May and
June as we got to the southward; whilst the contrary took place in October
and November; and in January the weather was generally fine with mode-
rate breezes.
CHOCÓ BAY.-After entering the Bay of Chocó, of which point Guascames
forms the southern horn, the winds become more variable; but during the
time we were in the bay (from the end of January to the middle of March)
it never blew very fresh, though the weather was often unsettled, and heavy
rains frequent. The prevailing wind was from S.W., but north-westerly
winds were not uncommon.
CHIRAMBIRA POINT TO THE GULF OF SAN MIGUEL.-When past Chiram-
bira Point (the northern horn of Chocó Bay) we had the wind more from
the northward, and in the latter end of March had to beat up to Panama
Bay against north-westerly and north-easterly breezes, blowing a fresh
breeze at times, especially as we approached the bay.
In surveying this last-named part in January, 1848, we found the winds
more variable, heavy rains almost always accompanying a change to S.W.,
from which quarter we once or twice had a stiff breeze.
GULF OF SAN MIGUEL TO THE GULF OF DULCE, INCLUDING THE
BAY OF PANAMA'.
First, or Intertropical Winds.-Between the southern point of the Gulf of
San Miguel and the Gulf of Dulce, including Panamá Bay and the coast of
912
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
Towards the end of
Veragua, the winds are regulated by the seasons.
December the northers begin to blow. These are fine, dry breezes, which
generally come on in the afternoon, and blow very fresh from N.N.E. to
N.N.W till near midnight, with a perfectly clear and cloudless sky, and the
air so dry and rarified that objects on a level with the horizon are distorted
and flattened, and the same effects are caused as are seen during an
easterly breeze off our own coast. Though generally a double-reefed topsail
breeze, they occasionally blow much harder, especially off the coast of
Veragua, where, in the months of January and February, even a close-reefed
topsail breeze is not uncommon. During even the strongest of these, a
dead calm often prevails 10 or 15 miles off the land, the only evidence of the
gale that is blowing within a few hundred yards of you being the agitation
of the water, which is raised into short hollow waves, which break on board
and tumble you about awfully.
Towards the end of March up to the middle of April, the northers begin
to cease, and are succeeded by calms and light sea and land-breezes, with
occasional squalls from the south-westward. As April advances the squalls
get stronger and more frequent, and by the early part of May the rainy
season generally sets in, during the greater part of which South and south-
westerly winds prevail. These are not very violent within the Bay of Pa-
namá; but from Punta Mala westward, gales from the above quarters are
frequent, and sometimes severe, bringing a very heavy sea with them.
GULF OF DULCE TO THE GULF OF FONSECA.
From the Gulf of Dulce, proceeding westward along the shores of Costa
Rica, Guatemala, and Mexico, we find the winds still follow the changes of
the seasons, modified, however, by locality. For instance, whenever the
northers prevail, we find them blowing off the shore at nearly right angles
to the run of the coast; thus, as soon as the coast of Nicaragua is approached
(which takes a more northerly direction than that before mentioned) we find
during the fine season the northers exchanged for breezes called Papagayos.
These blow from N.N.E. to E.N.E. or East, and are accompanied by the
same clear fine weather as the northers; the prevailing wind, however,
during this season (from January to April) is from S.E. to N.E. From May
to November, which is the rainy season, the weather is mostly bad, gales
from the West and S.W., with thunder, lightning, &c., being frequent, and
at times violent.
GULF OF FONSECA TO THE GULF OF TEHUANTEPEC.
After passing the Gulf of Fonseca, where the land again trends nearly
due West, the northerly winds are lost, till on reaching the Gulf of Tehuan-
tepec we meet them once more, but under a different name, and assuming
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
913
a more violent character. Along this portion where the mountains approach,
and even in some places form the coast line, the winds during the fine
season are the usual tropical land and sea-breezes; the former from N.W.,
the latter from South to W.S.W. and West. The remaining months are
marked by even worse weather from the same quarters as is found on the
Nicaragua coast.
FROM THE GULF OF TEHUANTEPEC TO TEXUPAN POINT.
First, or Intertropical Winds.-The heavy blasts which blow over the
isthmus of Tehuantepec derive their source from the country they cross.
They seem to be caused by the northers in the Gulf of Mexico, which here
find a vent through the opening formed between the Mexican and Guatema-
lian mountains. They blow with great force from North to N.N.E., and
raise a very high short sea; their force is felt for several hundred miles off
the coast. During the season when they prevail (December to April) every
preparation should be made to meet and carry sail through them; if this
can be done they are soon crossed, and 200 to 250 miles of westing (or
easting) made; otherwise, if you are obliged to heave-to, 36 to 118 hours of
heavy weather may be expected, exposed all the while to a very high and
short sea.
In the rainy season these cease; but the weather here, as along
the whole coast of Mexico, is then very bad, gales and strong breezes from
S.E. to S.W. constantly occur, whilst squalls, accompanied by thunder and
lightning, with heavy and almost incessant rain, characterize the season
throughout. These gales are at times very severe, rendering the navigation
of such a coast very unpleasant, as, with one exception, there is scarcely
any shelter from them to be found. During the fine season, however,
nothing can be more regular or quiet than the weather on the Mexican coast.
A regular sea-breeze sets in about noon, beginning from S.S.W. to W.S.W.,
and getting more westerly as the sun goes down, decreasing with it, and
gradually sinking into a calm as the night closes in. This is succeeded by
the land-wind off the shore, which is more irregular in its direction and
force; but these winds, and the method of making a passage to the west-
ward along the coast, have been so well and so truly described by Dampier
and Basil Hall, that nothing remains but to add my testimony to the correct-
ness of the accounts they give as far as their phenomena fell under my own
observation.
As soon as the coast begins to trend northerly again, which it does about
Texupan Point, we meet the northerly winds which blow down the Gulf of
California, and which are found pretty steady during the fine season a few
miles off the coast; by taking advantage of these, and the daily variations
caused by the land and sea breezes, the passage is made from this point to
San Blas and Mazatlan; but it is always a tedious beat, owing to a contrary
current and frequent calms.
North Pacific.
3 N
914
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
On pages 80 to 82 some remarks will be found from the pen of Commodore
C. B. Hamilton, 1849, describing the winds and weather experienced on
board H.M.S. Frolic. To these may be added here some observations taken
from Captain Basil Hall's well-known work.
On the S.W. coast of Mexico, the fair season, or what is called the
summer, though the latitude be North, is from December to May inclusive.
During this interval alone it is advisable to navigate the coast; for, in the
winter, from June to November inclusive, every part of it is liable to hard
gales, tornadoes, or heavy squalls, to calms, to constant deluges of rain, and
the most dangerous lightning; added to which, almost all parts of the coast
are at this time so unhealthy as to be abandoned by the inhabitants. At
the eastern end of this range of coast, about Panama, the winter sets in
earlier than at San Blas, which lies at the western end. Rains and sickness
are looked for early in March at Panama; but at San Blas rain seldom falls
before the 15th of June; sometimes, however, it begins on the 1st of June,
as we experienced. Of the intermediate coast I have no exact information,
except that December, January, and February are fine months everywhere;
and that, with respect to the range between Acapulco and Panama, the
months of March, April, and half of May, are also fine; at other times the
coast navigation may be generally described as dangerous, and on every
account to be avoided.
From December to May inclusive, the prevalent winds between Panama
and Cape Blanco (Gulf of Nicoya) are N.W. and northerly. Thence to
Realejo and Sonsonate, N.E. and easterly. At this season, off the gulfs of
Papagayo and Tehuantepec there blow hard gales, the first being generally
N.E., and the latter North. These, if not too strong, as they sometimes
are, greatly accelerate the passage to the westward; they last for several
days together, with a clear sky overhead, and a dense red haze near the
horizon. We experienced both in the Conway in February, 1822. The first,
which was off the gulf of Papagayo on the 12th, carried us 230 miles to the
W.N.W.; but the gale we met in crossing the gulf of Tehuantepec on the
24th, 25th, and 26th, was so hard that we could show no sail, and were
drifted off to the S.S.W. more than 100 miles. A ship ought to be well
prepared on these occasions, for the gale is not only severe, but the sea,
which rises quickly, is uncommonly high and short, so as to strain a ship
exceedingly.
From Acapulco to San Blas, what are called land and sea breezes blow;
but, as far as my experience goes, during the whole of March, they scarcely
deserve that name. They are described as blowing from N.W. and West
during the day, and from N.E. at night; whence it might be inferred, that
a shift of wind, amounting to eight points, takes place between the day and
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
915
night breezes. But, during the whole distance between Acapulco and San
Blas, together with about 100 miles East of Acapulco, which we worked
along, hank for hank, we never found, or very rarely, that a greater shift.
could be reckoned on than four points. With this, however, and the greatest
diligence, a daily progress of from 30 to 50 miles may be made.
LOWER CALIFORNIA.
On
There is no good account of the meteorology of this portion of the western
coast of America. But in some measure this is of less importance, inasmuch
as it has few ports, and these but very little frequented by commerce.
p. 123 some remarks by Mr. Jeffery, R.N., are given. The following are by
Commander James Wood, and are in continuation of those given on page
913 ante.
SAN LUCAS TO SAN DIEGO.
From Cape San Lucas to San Diego, or from 23° to 32° N., the general
direction of the wind is from West to North, but during the winter months,
or from November to April, this coast is subject to violent gales from the
S.E., which, as most of the bays and anchorages are open towards that
quarter, are much dreaded. This is especially the case along the northern
portion of this division, as towards Cape St. Lucas they are less frequent;
however, they always give ample warning of their approach. The only way,
therefore, of making a passage up this coast is by standing off upon the
starboard tack; as you get out the wind draws to the eastward, till either
the variables are reached, or you can fetch your port on the other tack. In
the summer season the only alteration is that the wind is more westerly in
the mornings, and draws round with the sun as the day advances.
From San Diego to San Francisco the wind prevails from the north-west-
ward nearly all the year round.* This coast is subject to the same south-
easterly gales as the coast of Lower California, but they are more frequent
here, and blow with greater force. All its bays and roadsteads are similarly
exposed, with the exception of the above-named ports, which are perfectly
secure, and defended from all winds. During the winter, therefore, vessels.
always anchor in a convenient berth for slipping, with springs and buoys on
their cables, so that on the first appearance of heavy clouds approaching
from the S.E., with a swell rolling up from the same quarter (the invariable
signs of the coming gale), they may be able to slip and go to sea without
* In the Gulf of California two winds prevail during the year-the N.W. from October
to May, and the S.E. from May until October. During the former season fresh breezes
and fine weather will prevail; when the latter brings heavy rains, oppressive heat, and
sultry weather. This information was copied by Mr. Jeffery, R.N., from an old Spanish
manuscript, and in his visit here in 1834 he proved its correctness.
3 N 2
916
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
loss of time. These gales last from twelve hours to two days, and are ac-
companied by heavy rain, which lasts till the wind changes, which it often
does very suddenly, and blows as hard for a few hours from the N.W., when
the clouds clear off and fine weather again succeeds. Off Concepcion Point
gales and strong breezes are so frequent as to obtain for it the appellation of
the Cape Horn of California. They are mostly from. North to West, and
frequently blow with great force, especially in the winter, when they some-
times last for three days together, without a cloud to be seen, till they begin
to moderate. But here one of the most remarkable features of this coast
first shows itself, viz., the frequent and dense fogs, which, during more than
half the year, render the navigation from San Diego northward most un-
pleasant. In making the land, the only way to deal with them is to feel
your way into the coast with the lead during the daytime, as it frequently
happens that a thick fog prevails at sea, while at the same time, within a
mile or two of the land, a clear, bright sky, and open horizon are to be
found; if disappointed in this you have but to wear, haul off again, and
heave-to till the desired change does take place.
CALIFORNIA.
A general account of the winds on the western coast of the United States,
as given in the excellent hydrographical memoir by Mr. Davidson, U.S.N.,
will be found on pages 154-5. The U.S. Government zealously collected
materials for meteorological discussion along the whole of the coast, during
the survey of 1855, and these have brought out the following general
results:
1. The great prevalence of westerly winds, representing a flow of the air
at the surface from the ocean in upon the land.
2. The general absence of easterly winds, showing the absence of a return
current at the surface.
The proportion of westerly to easterly winds is as 8 to 1.
3. The increase of westerly winds in the summer, and their decrease.in
the winter.
4. That when easterly winds blow at all, it is as a rule during winter.
5. The N., N.E., and E. winds blow more frequently in the morning than
in the afternoon hours.
6. The S.E., S., and S.W. winds are in general pretty equally distributed
over the morning and evening hours.
7. The N.W. is the prevailing direction of the ordinary sea breeze at
Astoria and San Diego, and the W. at San Francisco.
Sometimes the West wind has that character at the first-named stations,
and sometimes the S.W. wind at the last named.
As some of the details connected with these observations will be of service
to our readers, they are here furnished.
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
917
San Francisco.-At San Francisco the great current of air flowing from the
sea to the land comes generally from the W. or S.W., rarely from the N.W.
In the period from November to March, inclusive, the West is the pre-
vailing wind, exceeding in quantity both the others, the S.W. wind exceed-
ing in quantity the N.W. In the period from April to October the W. and
S.W. winds are nearly equal, and each exceeds the N.W.
The West wind has, in general, the features attributed to the sea breeze,
beginning after the rising of the sun, increasing until after the hottest part
of the day, and dying out or much diminishing at nightfall.
The West and S. W. winds are prominent features at San Francisco.
The S.W. is the prevailing wind in June and July; S.W. and West winds
blowing nearly the whole of these months, not succeeded by an easterly land
breeze-but rising and falling. May and August resemble each other, the
N.W. and S.W. winds being nearly equal in quantity, and each less than
the West wind. In April and September the N.W. wind has nearly died
out. The West wind diminishes in quantity through March and February,
and through October, November, and December, to January. The N.W.
wind increases again from April towards December, but is very small in
October and November. The S. W. wind disappears in October, reappearing
in November and December, and increasing towards January. The West
wind has a maximum in April and May, and another in September and
October, the minima being July and January.
The North wind in December, January, and February, reaching a maxi-
mum in January, is the only other point to be noticed for San Francisco,
partaking with the other places in the general absence of easterly winds,
although these show themselves slightly in winter. There is also but little
South wind.
Astoria and San Diego.-In general, the winds at these two places resem-
ble each other more than those at San Francisco do either. April, May,
June, July, and August have the same general character.
The N.W. wind is the summer wind, and has the characteristics of the sea
breeze, but there is no return land breeze. The N.W. wind reaches a
maximum in July and a minimum in December. It is the great prevailing
wind of the year at San Diego. As it decreases it is generally replaced by
West and S. W. winds of less quantity. In December the quantities of the
three winds are nearly equal.
The resemblance of these winds at San Diego and Astoria is remarkable,
the remarks just made applying generally to both places. There is, how-
ever, much less N. W. wind at Astoria than at San Diego. Except in June,
July, and August, there is some South wind each month at Astoria, and
especially from September through October, November, December, and
February. At San Diego this is less marked, the two agreeing most nearly
in quantity in March, April, and May.
918
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
The S.E. wind is a distinct feature in both places in February and March,
and at San Diego in April and June.
The East wind is prominent at Astoria in January, February, and March,
and the N.E. from October to January, inclusive.
Astoria has the most easterly wind, the N.E. beginning in October and
blowing until February, and being replaced by the East wind in March.
The summer is the windy season on the West coast, July being one of the
windiest months of the year.
VANCOUVER ISLAND, ALASKA, &c.
Captain G. FI. Richards, R.N., in the excellent Pilot for the southern
portion of British Columbia, has given the remarks quoted on pages 314,
315, and these with other authorities mentioned in that part of our work,
will amply suffice for this portion of the subject.
Of the meteorology of the coast northward of this our aequaintance is
much more limited, for, with the exception of Sitka, we have but few re-
marks on the wind and climate of this remote and unfrequented region.
On pages 447-8 are given the general results of the observations on climate,
&c., especially those derived from fourteen years' hourly observations at the
Imperial Observatory at Sitka, the one great feature being clearly shown,-
that the average number of wet or foggy days per annum is two hundred and
forty-five.
Although of old date, we give here the observations of Adm. Krusenstern,
which embody the experience gained up to the date of the great Pacific
hydrographer's labours.
Humboldt supposes that between Behring Strait and the 5th degree of
North latitude there prevail North and South monsoons, that is to say, from
the month of May to that of October winds from S.S.W. and S.E. are met
with, and from November to April those from North and N.E. It does not
seem, however, by the voyages of Cook, Vancouver, and other navigators
who have frequented the N.W. coast of America, that these winds succeed.
each other regularly; and if sometimes winds blow oftener from South
during summer, and from North during winter, I do not think from this
that we can establish a general rule; for S.E. winds are also very frequent
in winter, and it is with a violent S.E. wind that winter sets in. We find,
also, the opposite to the rule, and that only N.W. winds blow during sum-
mer. It is certain that the S.E. winds, whether those blowing in summer or
in winter, are always accompanied by bad weather, by fogs and rain; and,
on the contrary, the N.W. wind is accompanied by dry weather, and oftenest
with cold weather.
I will adduce some examples, taken from the journals of the more cele-
brated navigators who have visited the N.W. coasts of America, to show
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
919
that the winds have here too little regularity in their direction, to give them,
as Humboldt does, the name of monsoons.
Cook, while on the coast of America in the month of March, in lat. 44°,
had constant and very fresh breezes from N.W., which accompanied him
during his navigation towards the North until the beginning of summer;
he met with, it is true, from time to time, gales from the S.E., but they were
but sudden shifts, and did not commonly last more than six hours, after
which the wind reverted with great force to the N. W., and it was only by
means of these short breezes from the S.E. that Cook could work his way
to the North. It is seen equally by the voyages of Pérouse, and Portlock,
and Dixon, that southerly winds do not predominate during the summer
months.
Although Vancouver, when surveying the coast of America in the middle
of April, 1792, that is, towards the end of the northerly monsoon, expe-
rienced violent gales from S.E. and E.S.E., with continued rains, and,
although up to 50° of lat. the winds blew continually from the southern
quarter, yet when he came on to the coast in the ensuing year, following it
upon the same parallel and in the same season, that is, mid-April, he met
with fresh northerly winds as far as his arrival in Nootka Sound. It is true
that, in the month of September, in the same year, he met with some breezes
from S.E. to S.W., but he also had them from N.W. In the month of De-
cember, 1792, on the contrary, being under the parallel of Port San Diego,
in lat. 32° 42′ N., the winds blew constantly from the South. These accom-
panied them to the parallel of 30°, although they ought to have blown from
the North if these winds change regularly. Thus it is winds from the north-
ward, and particularly from the N.W., which blow the most frequently, and
occasion, as Vancouver says, a great hindrance to any advance to the north-
ward; the Spaniards, consequently, in general keep a long way off the coast,
running much to the northward of the parallel of their intended destination,
to arrive at it more readily. Vancouver believes that they push this precau-
tion too far; he is of opinion that, by the aid of the land-breezes from East
and S.E., the duration of which is longer, and which have also greater force
than the sea-breezes, any port may be attained. This opinion of Vancouver
is correct, at least for the navigation from the Bay of San Francisco, in lat.
30° to Concepcion Point, in 343°, and even farther North.
Near to the Bay of Kenay (or Cook's Inlet), Kodiack Island, and Prince
William's Sound, Vancouver found, in March and April, most frequently
winds from N.W. and North. In May, June, July, and August, 1794, the
winds often blew from S.E. and East, with great force, but not less fre-
quently than from N.W. and S. W. Although Captain Meares had a very
strong wind from S.W. under the parallel of 50°, and that during the
months of June and July the winds come more frequently from South than
from North, he says, nevertheless, page 234 of his Voyage, that during the
920
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
summer months westerly winds prevail as far as 30° of latitude, with as
much regularity as easterly winds prevail from 30° to the equator.
I am indebted to Captain Hagemeister, of our marine, for some notice on
the predominant winds and currents in this part of the globe, and which he
had collected during a navigation of several years on the N.W. coast of
America. These notices merit the greatest confidence, being the result of a
great number of observations made with the most scrupulous exactness,
particularly at New Archangel in Norfolk Bay, and at Port Ross (Port
Bodega), on the coast of New California; both lie within the limits which I
have given to the first zone. It results from these observations, as well as
from those already cited, that northerly winds are not the exclusive attribute
of winter, as those of the South are not of summer, but the contrary fre-
quently takes place.
By the observations made at New Archangel in lat. 57° 2′ N., it seems
that it is easterly winds, accompanied with rain and snow, that are predo-
minant in winter. At the beginning of December there are frequent squalls
and tempests, which do not occur in summer, and towards the end of this
month the Aurores Boreales are very strong. About Cape Chirikoff, in lat.
56° 9', the currents have a constant North direction, and often with a velocity
of 2 miles an hour. The direction of the current along this coast is in
general towards the North; near to Port St. Francis it takes a West direc-
tion, toward Prince William's Sound and the entrance to Cook's Inlet, after
which it turns toward the South, along the coasts of Kodiak. The remains
of vessels shipwrecked on the American coast are often found about the
southern part of the Island of Kodiak; among them those of Japanese
vessels, which are recognised by the camphor-wood of which they are built.
BEHRING SEA.
There is no complete account of the climate or winds of this inclement
region, and to derive it from the individual experience of the various navi-
gators who have recorded their knowledge would but give a fallacious view
of the subject, as the features of its different shores vary greatly from each
other. Among the northern islands it is as humid and disagreeable as
possible. Spring does not begin till May. Dense fogs prevail throughout
the summer; snow falls in October, and in December the North winds bring
the ice, which remains frequently till May. Further South at Behring and
Copper Islands, the climate is not so rigorous, as explained on page 549.
KAMCHATKA.
Easterly winds prevail in summer, varying between N.E. and S.E., while
westerly winds are constant from September till May, and are frequently
very stormy. Westerly winds in summer bring bright fine weather, while
easterly winds bring snow or rain.
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
921
The winds in the Gulf of Tartary, to the South of this, are described
on page 580.
JAPAN.
During the stay of the American squadron in the Gulf of Yedo, from
February to July, 1854, the weather was generally fine, but occasionally in-
terrupted by strong winds and heavy rain. Northerly winds were prevalent
in February, March, and April, south-westerly winds in May and July, and
variable winds in June. The gales come on suddenly from the S.W. with a
low barometer, and continuing for a short time, hauled round to the north-
ward and westward and moderated. There were no easterly gales; in fact,
the wind was rarely from that quarter, except when veering round from the
northward (as it invariably did) by the East, to the southward and westward.
In Yedo Bay the mean temperature for the month of February was 46°
Fahr., and the apricot and camelia japonica were in full bloom. There were
but few fogs; they commenced at Hakodadi about the 1st June, but did not
extend as far southward as Simoda.
In the months of August and September, 1858-the period H.M.S. Fu-
rious remained in Yedo Bay-heavy gales from the E.N.E., shifting round
to the S.W., and increasing in force, were frequent. Winds from West,
round northerly, to E.N.E. generally brought fine weather, and rain when
between S.E. and S.W.
In 1861, from the middle of June to the middle of September, there was
no gale in the Yedo Gulf, but much calm weather. The latter part of Sep-
tember was unsettled, with a moderate gale from S.S.W. A gale occurred
off the South coast, beginning with a light easterly wind and veering by
South, blowing hardest at S.W., and falling at a sudden shift to N.N.W.
October in the Kii channel was fine, northerly winds rather predominating,
and much calm weather.
From information obtained at Yedo, it appears the prevailing winds
throughout the year are to the northward of East and West, and that those
to the southward generally bring bad weather; always, however, causing
the barometer to fall in sufficient time to enable a vessel to obtain a 60 or 80
miles offing, should she be near the coast.
Off Yedo, in February 1863, H.M.S. Swallow experienced a sharp, short
gale of ten hours duration, with little or no warning. The sky was very
clear, with steadily falling barometer, and in two hours the ship was reduced
to close-reefed main topsail, &c. Singularly clear weather is often a prog-
nostic of a coming gale, but the barometer is the unfailing sign.
Strong winds from the S.E. are generally accompanied with thick weather
and rain. At such a period it is recommended that a vessel bound to the
westward from Yedo should run through the chain of islands to the
southward of Van Diemen Strait, instead of passing through the strait;
922
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
for by taking this latter route, and not making sufficient allowance for the
north-easterly current, she would in all probability find herself embayed on
a lee shore to the northward of Cape Chichakoff and possibly of Cape D'An-
ville (Toyi misaki).
During H.M.S. Saracen's survey of the Strait of Tsugar, May, June, July,
and August, 1855, the prevailing winds were from the South, with much
fine clear weather. The wind was less frequent from the N.W. than any
other quarter. Dense fogs prevailed in May and June; after that period
they were comparatively rare.
After a
The wind in shifting usually followed the course of the sun.
few days of light southerly wind and fine weather it freshened, and veered
At N.W. it
to the westward, accompanied by fine clear and cold weather.
usually died away, or flew round suddenly to the eastward; in the latter
case it was always followed by a dense fog or a gale; the weather getting
fine again as the wind veered to the southward.
On the West coasts of Japan, including the Japan sea, Korea strait, and
the northern part of the Eastern sea, the weather is as follows:-In the
spring from about March to June and sometimes in July, the winds are
almost constantly from the eastward, veering between N.E. and S.E.;
moderate in force, with mist and rain and gloomy skies. It frequently
freshens up to a strong breeze, with squally weather generally from N.E.
Calms and light westerly winds occur in small proportion and bring beautiful
weather.
There are occasional strong gales, sometimes of five days' duration, the
wind freshening up from the East (generally commencing from S.E.), with
falling barometer, and blowing with variable force for three or four days,
then chopping round suddenly to South, or veering to North and N.W.,
according to the quarter of the passing storm, when the gale attains its
maximum force, and blows itself out in a few hours or in one or two days,
according to the season. The barometer gives good warning. The gale al-
ways attains its height after the mercury has commenced to rise, and usually
blows with the greatest violence from the N.W. Small cyclones of short
duration are also known in Juno; they travel northwards, but later in the
year between N.E. and East.
In summer, in the western part of the Japan sea, light easterly winds are
still predominant, with much fine weather and thick fogs, but much more
variable than in the spring, and subject to short, sharp breezes, veering
with the sun. Towards the end of August they altermate with westerly
breezes.
About the autumnal equinox, the weather breaks up between the parallels
of 41° and 46° N. In the middle of September 1859, a heavy cyclone was
experienced (exceeding 500 miles in diameter aud progressing to the N.E.)
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
923
at St. Vladimir Bay and Hakodadi at the same time, and was the heaviest
storm known at the former place for 40 years. There occurred between
this and the middle of November twelve other gales, ten of which were
cyclones and two "blue north-westers," their force from 7 to 10, their
duration 2 to 4 days, with intervals seldom of more than two or three
days' fine weather between them; the normal direction of the wind was
from S.W. to N.W., with fresh and strong breezes.
Southward of 36° North, November was fine with light N.E and N.W.
winds. The N.W. winds became prevalent towards the end of the month.
At Hakodadi, they blow for four months. In 1859, during the first eighteen
days of December, the wind remained between N.W. and W.S.W. almost
constantly, only veering occasionally as far as S.W. and North. The weather
was fine when the wind was moderate, but very fresh breezes brought
rain or snow.
The duration of the north-west winds in the South is un-
certain.
THE ISLANDS.
The various archipelagoes and detached islands of the North Pacific are
nearly all within the limits of the North-East Trade wind, and therefore the
peculiarities of their meteorology are very simply explained. But as some
of the chief of these groups, as the Hawaiian, the Marianas, and the Caro-
lines, lie on the northern, western, and southern limits respectively, it has
been argued, perhaps fallaciously, that all the islands have a marked effect
on the direction of the general wind. But when it is considered that the area
of these islands, mostly coralline atolls, is so infinitesimally small compared
with the area which surrounds them, it cannot be conceded that these minute
specks on the surface of the great ocean can exercise much influence on the
great belt of the trade wind which blows over it.
Taking the Sandwich islands as an example, it is shown in the description
of that archipelago, pages 822, 823, that lying as they do just within the
northern tropic, the N.E. trade blows without much intermission for nine
months in the year, and that from December to January, that is when the
sun is in the highest southern latitude, they are interrupted, and that the
islands then are in the horse latitudes of the tropic of Cancer.
The Ladrone islands are also exceptionally placed. For hereabout is the
division of the monsoon region and that of the N.E. trades. The S.W. mon-
soon evidently reaches the archipelago between the middle of June and the
middle of October, but is only violent and changeable for a few weeks in the
beginning or end of its season. During the middle, as in August and Sep-
tember, the air is calm and the heat almost unendurable. This subject is
further elucidated on pages 796-7.
The Caroline islands lie on the southern verge of the N.E. trades, and are
924
WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
Mrs. Gulick, one
subject to all the vicissitudes of the change of seasons.
of a family to whom we owe much of our knowledge of the islands of the
North Pacific, being the wife of a most zealous member of the Hawaiian
mission, kept a meteorological register for three years, 1853-5, at Ascen-
sion, and from the results tabulated on page 737, it will be seen that N.E.
trades are only interrupted between July and November, at the time when
this southern margin, following the sun in its course, passes to the north-
ward, leaving the archipelago in the belt of calms or "doldrums," but
which have not the characteristic usually attributed to this zone, as the
number of calm days is generally fewer than is found to be the case in the
zones either North or South of them.
In the descriptions of the other group of islands will be found many notices
of the climate and winds, which will be sufficient to give an idea of this
simple subject.
The MONSOONS of the Western Pacific are incidentally described in our
Directory for the Indian Ocean, pages 29-66, and in that for the Indian
Archipelago, pages 1 to 25. To those works, which are connected with the
present volume, the reader is referred for a concise account of their origin
and effect.
HURRICANES are but little felt in the open ocean in the North Pacific,
and do not differ in their phenomena from those experienced in other oceans.
It will be therefore needless to swell the bulk of this volume, already too
large, with a description of their well known features.
2. TIDES.
Except on the surrounding shores, where they exhibit similar phenomena
and magnitude to other parts of the world, the tides of the Pacific are insig-
nificant, and almost unnoticeable to the mariner. The tables which are
given hereafter contain the elements of the tides necessary to navigation ;
that is, the hour of high water, and the rise and fall of the tide, on the
coasts of America, Asia, &c. But in the vast space between these two
boundaries the tidal wave is scarcely appreciable, except by refined ob-
servation, and can form but a small portion of the actuating consideration in
navigation.
Under these circumstances we deem it unnecessary to enter into the general
laws of the tides as founded by the illustrious Newton, or the interesting
features elicited by the discussion of the late Rev. Professor Whewell and
TIDES OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
925
Sir John Lubbock. The present consideration, therefore, will be confined
to the general view of the Pacific tides, as set forth by the late Dr. Whewell
to whom the main features of the tidal laws, as they are now known, is
mainly owing.
THE REV. W. WHEWELL ON THE TIDES OF THE PACIFIC.
I shall not attempt to determine the general course of the tides in the
Pacific, but will remark that the view now given of the distribution of the
tides in an ocean explains several of the features of the Pacific tides,
which were before very perplexing. If we suppose an ocean tide, from
the borders of which proceed tides having their progress marked by cotidal
lines, we can easily draw the lines so as to include the following facts and
observations:-
1. The easterly motion of the tide wave around Cape Horn, which is
established by Captain King's observations, and which is difficult to reconcile
with the supposition of a tide revolving from West to East round the South
pole. This is explained by its being a tide proceeding from an oceanic
tide.
2. The tide being at nearly the same hour along a large portion of the
coast of South America, namely, from the Strait of Magalhaens for 20°
or 30° northward. This shows that the cotidal line is nearly parallel with
the shore.
islands in the centre of the
These belong to a central
3. The very small tides, or no tides, at the
Pacific, Tahiti, and the Sandwich islands.
portion of the ocean, where the rise and fall of the surface nearly vanishes.
There are two sources of inaccuracy in tide observations, namely, the
want of a clear understanding as to the thing to be observed, and the irre-
gularity and complexity of the facts themselves. With regard to the former
point, I hope that several misapprehensions, formerly prevalent among na-
vigators, are now no longer common; such as confounding the time of high
water with the time of the turn of the tide stream. But there is probably
still some unnecessary difficulty produced by regarding, as a cardinal point
in observation, the "establishment," as vulgarly understood, namely, the
hour of high water on the day of new or full moon; for, in fact, the hour of
high water on this day is of no more importance than the hour of high water
on any other day, except in so far as it gives the means of knowing the hour
on other days. And it does not afford the means of doing this any more
than the hour of high water for any other given age of the moon does. For
just as much inaccuracy as, from whatever cause, there is in deducing the
time of high water at all ages of the moon from the time at a given age, just
926
TIDES OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
as much inaccuracy is there, from the same causes, in deducing the time of
high water for all ages of the moon, from the time for full or new moon.
And if the time at which the tide follows the moon on two or three successive
occasions be greatly and irregularly different, the observations are equally of
little value, whether any of the observed tides fall on the day of the new or
full moon, or do not. If the tides are regular, and the observations good,
the common "establishment" may be obtained from the observations of any
one day; although, to give much value to this deduction, the tides should be
observed for a fortnight. And if such observations be made for a number of
very distant places, the common "establishment" does not represent a cor-
responding fact at different places. In some places it means the time of
high water one day after the highest tide; in some, the tide two days after
the highest tide; in some three days; for the " age of the tide" is different
at different places, and the tide which corresponds to the new or full moon
comes after the new or full moon by one, two, or three days. Hence, in
order that we might compare the tides of distant places by means of a fact
which had the same meaning in all of them, I proposed, in a former essay,
instead of taking this common establishment, to take what I then called the
corrected establishment, namely, the mean of all the lunitidal intervals, that is,
of the intervals by which the tide follows the moon's transit.
In general,
the corrected establishment is about thirty minutes less than the common es-
tablishment. It has been used by Admiral Lütke, in his discussion of the
tides of the Pacific. As the common establishment is still the one familiar
to navigators, and as no material error will result from the use of it, I shall
make it the basis of my remarks on the tides of the Pacific. It may be use-
ful to bear in mind what I have said, that this establishment may be de-
duced from observations not made at the new or full moon. *
I shall now proceed to give the tide hours for the coasts of the Pacific, ac-
cording to the best accounts which I find, judging them in the manner I have
described. After noticing the course of the tide near Cape Horn, I shall
follow it along the whole western coast of America, till, in the North, we
reach the Aleutian islands; and then, following this chain of islands, to
the shores of Kamtschatka. I shall then consider the islands in the central
parts of the Pacific, and proceed from them westward, according to my
materials.
* I have here said that in cases where the tides follow the common laws we may deduce
the time of high water on one day from the time on another. I might have said the same
thing of the heights.
TIDES OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA.
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Time Greenw.
H.W. Time.
Rise.
Authority.
927
H. M. H. M.
H. M.
FEET.
Panama
8 57
3 20
Panama Bay
5 18
1 0
13
Lloyd, Phil. Trans.,
1830.
Kellett.
3
36
8
54
15
Sir E. Belcher.
""
Nicoya.
8 0
•
FitzRoy.
Island S. Lucas
9 56
5 42
3
0
8
42
6
Sir E. Belcher.
Realejo
12 28
5 48
3
0
8
48
6
Sir E. Belcher. Great
irregularities.
Acapulco
16 50
6 39
2 41
9 20
1
Sir E. Belcher.
3 5
9 44
2
Du Petit Thouars.
""
Magdalena Bay
24 38
7 28
8
30
6
Sir E. Belcher. Very
anomalous.
7 37
3 5
6
Du Petit Thouars.
""
San Blas...
21 32
7 1
8 5
3
6
Mem. on S. America.
3
0
""
FitzRoy.
9 41
4 42
Beechey.
Mazatlan
Monterey
23 0
7
10
9 50
5 0
Beechey.
36 36
8
6
9 42
5 48
Beechey.
9 52
7
Du Petit Thouars.
""
anomalous.
San Francisco
37 48
8 9 12 30
6
Diurnal inequality,
Sir E. Belcher. Very
H.W. & L.W. large
in ht. and times.
10 52
Beechey & Malaspina.
وو.
10 33
6 42
6
""
Russian nav. (Lutke's
notice).
Port Bodega
38 19 8 11
11 41
7 52
Russian navigators.
Columbia River.
46 16 8 16
1 0
9 16
8
Sir E. Belcher.
•
1 30
""
Straits of Juan de Fuca 48
Nootka Sound
0
12 30
8
Vancouver.
Kellett.
49 36
9
2
10 40
12
Sir E. Belcher. Great
diurnal inequalities.
12 33
9 35
12
Lutke.
""
F. Nicolaëfsky (Cook's
Inlet)
60 15
10
6
3 49
1 55
28
Wrangell.
From this point the coast turns westward, and the stations are arranged
according to longitude, without regard to their latitude.
928
TIDES OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
American Coast.
Lat.
North.
Long.
Time
West.
H: W.
Greenw.
Time.
Rise.
Authority.
H. M.
H.
M.
H. M. FEET.
F. Nicolaefsky (Cook's
Inlet)
60 15
10 6
3 49
1
55
28
Wrangell.
Harbour of St. Paul
(Kadiack Island) 57
46
10
8
0
30
10
38
10
Harbour 3 Hiérarq.
57 8
10
12
0
19
10
31 10
..
Nouchagak Bay
58
31
10
34
2
14
0 48 12
002
Russian navigators.
....
Aleutian Isles.
St. Paul Island ...
57
10
11
Atkha Island……….
52 25
11
Attou Island
52 57 12 28
2888
20
3 47
36
0
47 20
3
7
11
56
44
5
0 48
1
16
22
Russian navigators.
Wrangell.
Russian navigators.
Russian navigators,
doubtful.
Kamtschatka.
Petropaulovski
""
53 1
13 26
3
38
3 43
3 54
55
4
4
Lütke, in 1827.
9
Lütke, in 1828. Diur-
nal inequalities.
3
Du Petit Thouars.
Looking at the general assemblage of the numbers which occur in the
column marked "Greenwich time," it is evident that the tide wave of the
hour 8, which is at Cocos island and the Galapagos about eight o'clock,
comes to the continent at Nicoya and Realejo, about 10° and 12° North lat.,
at about three-quarters of an hour later; while the tide is at hours later
than this, both to the northward and the southward. Proceeding first south-
ward, we find the line of 11 not far from Callao, that of 2 near Coquimbo or
Valparaiso, and that of 3½ near Valdivia; and farther South we have the
line of 5 at Chiloe, and of 6 at Cape Pillar; whence the wave moves to the
eastward, round Cape Horn, as already stated. Considering these points as
fixed, it is easy to interpolate the other cotidal lines along this coast. The
observed hour at Guayaquil is later than its position would give, a result
which we should expect, since the tide will occupy some time in travelling
up the gulf in which Guayaquil is situated.
Again, proceeding from Nicoya and Realejo, to the northward, we find a
like progression of tide hours. The line 10 is not far from Acapulco, accord-
ing to the data here collected. But the tide at Acapulco is small, and hence
the accuracy of the result is doubtful. Perhaps the smallness of the tide is
an indication that the point of divergence of the tide wave, which occurs on
this part of the American coast, is not far from Acapulco. It appears that
the line of 3 passes near San Blas, and also near the Bay of S. Magdalena,
on the coast of California. At Mazatlan, somewhat within the Gulf of Cali-
fornia, the time is an hour or two later, as we should expect. When we
reach Monterey and San Francisco the hour is about 6, according to Captain
Beechey's observations. The more recent ones are too anomalous to proceed
upon. At Port Bodega, in lat. 38°, we have the 8 tide line; and at Nootka
TIDES OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
929
Sound, Cook's observatory, which give 12h 30m (whence Greenwich IX nearly),
are confirmed by Captain Kellett's observations in the Straits of De Fuca,
South of Vancouver's island. The next point is the Russian settlement,
New Archangel, in the island of Sitka, where the tides exhibit very curious
features, as I have already stated from the observations of Admiral Lütke,
and, as I find, further confirmed by the observations of Sir Edward Belcher.
The line belonging to Sitka appears to be 123.
From this point we depend upon Russian observations, which are given
by Admiral Lütke in his "Notice." These enable us to see that the cotidal
lines bend, as usual, deep into the head of the bay in which is Cook's River
(Inlet), in lat. 60°. The coast here trends to the West, and the wave follows
it, and pursues its course along the chain of the Aleutian islands, where it
is traced by Admiral Lütke and the navigators of the Russo-American Com-
pany. It appears that the lines of 11, 12, 1, 2, fall near this chain, and that
the line of 5 is near the coast of Kamchatka. It is not difficult to arrange
the cotidal lines so as to conform to these data.
Admiral Lütke has observed the tides at other places on the Asiatic coast,
as far North as 65°, but I shall not attempt to arrange them.
Our next attempt must be to arrange the tides of the oceanic isles of the
North Pacific.
ISLES OF THE NORTH PACIFIC.
Lat.
North.
Long.
West.
Time
H. W.
Greenw.
Time.
Rise.
Authority.
Sandwich Isles.
O
H.
M. H.
M.
H.
M. FEET.
Honolulu
21 18
10 32 3 35
2 7
2
Du Petit Thouars.
Caroline Isles.
Ualan
5 15 13 7
7 3 35
4 42
5
Lütke.
Ladrone Isles.
Guahan
Bonin Isles
13 32 14 20
26 52 14 29
∞
8 23
6 43
6 3
10 43
9 12
లఱ
Freycinet.
Lutke.
Beechey.
•
Loo-Choo Isles
26 30 15 28 6 28
Sand Isle, Samboanga 6 55 15 52 7 36
9 56
6
Beechey.
11 28
4
Sir E. Belcher.
Bashee Group.
Batan Island
Corean Archipelago
Patchusan
Hong Kong
Amoy Harbour.
Santubon
22 0 15 50
34 17 15 51
26 20 15 41
22 12 16 23 9 37
Sir E. Belcher.
4 49
8 40
13
Sir E. Belcher. Ano-
malous.
6 36 10 17
5
Sir E. Belcher. Diurn.
inequalities.
2 0
6
Sir E. Belcher. Diurn.
24 16 16
8 12 52
6 9
5
0
18
0
12
inequalities.
Captain H. Smith.
Sir E. Belcher.
North Pacific.
1 48 16 39 4 21
30
930
TIDES OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
These observations appear to imply a general motion westward of the tidal
wave; but I conceive that they are much too far and too unconnected to
justify me in drawing cotidal lines; besides which, the smallness of the
tides in the central parts of the ocean makes the observations more than
usually doubtful, and is accompanied by some circumstances inconsistent
with the notion of a simple progressive wave as the representation of the
tidal phenomena of those seas. I will consider those circumstances for a
moment.
Tides of the Central Pacific.
The tides over a great portion of the central part of the Pacific are so small
that we may consider the lunar tide as almost vanishing. Thus, at Bau
Island, it is stated as only 1 foot; at Tahiti it is hardly more; at the Sand-
wich islands it is 2 feet; and even at New Ireland, where we are no longer
in the central space, but among the larger islands to the West of it, the tide
is only about 2 feet. But moreover, at some at least of these places, the
tide, small as it is, is not the lunar tide following the usual laws. At Tahiti
for instance, the time of high water appears never to deviate from noon by
more than a certain difference, although Sir Edward Belcher has shown that
it varies from about 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. At Bau island there appears reason
to believe that the limits are much the same; and perhaps at Carteret's
harbour, in New Ireland. Now it will be easily seen that such a result as
this would follow if we were to suppose the tidal influence of the sun and
of the moon te be equal. On this supposition it is plain that the high water
would always occur halfway between the sun's transit and the moon's
transit. Hence at new moon the high water would be at noon; as the moon
went away to the eastward of the sun, the tide would be later and smaller;
till, when the moon was six hours' distance from the sun, the tide would be
at 3h, but would in fact vanish. After this point the tide would re-appear
at 9 a.m., or a little later, the inferior transit of the moon now taking the
place of the superior one in determining the tide; and from this time the
tide would be gradually later and larger till at full moon it would be again
at noon; and so on. This appears to agree pretty well with the phenomena
of the tides at Tahiti, as determined by Sir E. Belcher.
A more minute examination of the tides in these regions will enable us to
pronounce more decidedly whether the law, of the phenomena is that which
has been just stated. And if it appears that the phenomena do follow this
law, we shall have further to consider how such a motion of the sea in those
parts is to be combined with the very different movements which occur in
other places, and what is the general movement of the ocean which they in-
dicate; whether, for instance, they are best explained by looking upon the
lunar and solar parts of the tide, as produced by two separate waves,
may increase and diminish separately, and may start from different epochs
which
TIDES OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
931
in their motions. I shall not now pursue this point further; nor shall I fur-
ther examine how far the phenomena approach to the cases of fluid motion
already described, in which there is a marked wave at the outskirts of the
mass, and an approximate quiescence of the surface in the central parts;
namely, the case of a stationary undulation, and of a revolving undulation,
or rather a revolving cotidal line. I may remark, however, that the latter
supposition, that of a revolving undulation, by which the tide is carried from
California northwards along the American shore, and to the coast of Kam-
chatka, while the cotidal lines converge to some central point in the
North Pacific, would explain the smallness of the tides at the Sandwich
islands.
The foregoing is that portion of Professor Whewell's important scientific
contribution which refers to the North Pacific. Although some minor details
may be modified by more recent observations, still, as the arguments are
based on correct data, the conclusions remain unimpeachable. We have,
therefore, deemed it right to repeat them in the present edition.
The following Tide Table is derived from the Admiralty lists, drawn up
by Commander Burdwood, R.N., and give all that is necessary for the
navigator.
Place.
Central America, West
Coast.
Chepo River...
Pedro Gonzales (Trapichi
Island)
Chamé Bay
Saboga
Panama Road
Port Nuevo
Parida Island
Nicoya Gulf (Port Herra-
dura)
Port San Juan del Sur
Port Realejo.....
Port la Union, Gulf of
Fonseca..
Acajutla Road
·
TIDE TABLE.
High
Water,
Rise.
Place.
Full and Springs
Change.
H. M.
FT.
Mexico, West Coast.
Rise.
High
Water,
Full and Springs
Change.
H. M.
FT.
Port Guatulco
Port Sacrificios
3 40
16
Acapulco
Perula Bay
3 50
16
San Blas
4 0
16
Mazatlan
4 0
14
Guaymas Harbour
1 30
3 15
3 6
9 41
9 40
8
0
5617674
12
3 23
15-22
3 10
12
3 15
10/1/
HIG
California and Washington
Territories.
∞ ∞ ∞
3
3
3
986
9
10
8?
10?
San Lucas Bay
9 20
11
Magdalena Bay
7 35
Port San Quentin
9 5
9
3
15
109/2
Port San Bartolome
9 10?
2 25
9
Playa Maria Bay...
7-9?
9 20? 7-9?
302
932
TIDES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
High
Water,
Rise.
Place.
Place.
Full and Springs
Change.
High
Water,
Rise.
Full and Springs
Change.
H. M.
FT.
Cerros Island
9 10
7-9
Sta. Barbara Island
8 0
San Diego Bay
9
38
5
San Juan Anchorage
9 40?
San Pedro Anchorage
9 45
bour).
San Miguel (Cuyler Har-
San Rosa Island
Santa Catalina Island
9 25
5
9 30?
•
9 35?
Santa Cruz Island
9 35?
San Luis Obispo
10
8
Monterey
10 22
South Farallon
10 37
San Francisco,
North
Beach
12 6
Drakes Bay
11
41
Bodega Port
11
17
Humboldt Bay
12
2
Port Orford
11 26
Columbia River entrance
0 15
Astoria
0 42
Nee-ah Harbour
12 33
Port Townshend.
3 49
54
Che Che Che
༧ ཡ=4 =={c%}edale=ls 4s=lot{s
44
44
Hernando Island, Strait
of Georgia
Rendezvous Islands
Stuart Island
Waddington Harb., Bute
Inlet
676
H. M.
FT.
0
12—14
14
12-14
CO
6
0
13
Gowlland Harbour, Dis-
5?
covery Passage
5 30
11
5?
Seymour Narrows
4 0
11
5?
Cameleon Harbour, No-
dales Channel
Forward Harbour
33
3 0
16
0
16
Beaver Creek, Loughbo-
rough Inlet
3
0
16
Knox Bay...
Port Neville.
12
0
16
0 30
17
Beaver Cove
15
Alert Bay,
Cormorant
Island
15
Nimpkish River
0
30
14
Beaver Harbour
0 30
1523
Shushartie Bay
12
Bull
Harbour,
Goletas
Fort Steilacoom
4 46
11
Channel
0 30
12/1/20
Deep Harbour, Fife Sound 12 0
Cullen Harbour
16
12 0
16
""
British Columbia and Van-
couver Island.
Quatsino Sound, Vancou-
ver Island
11
0
11
Klaskino Inlet.
Sooke Harbour
Esquimalt Harbour*
Victoria Harbour*
2 0
8
Klaskish Inlet
irr.
7-10
Nasparte Inlet.
irr.
Strait
...
Georgia
Pender Harbour, Strait of
Roche Harbour, Haro
Port Discovery
Nisqually, Puget Sound..
Drayton Harbour, Semiah-
moo Bay
Fraser River (entrance).
Burrard Inlet, Gulf of
Plumper Cove, Howe
Sound
Port Graves
Stuart Channel (Cowit-
chin Harbour
Nanaimo Harbour, Gulf
of Georgia
Nanoose Harbour, Van-
couver Island
Georgia
irr.
12
26
2 30
0
18
278
7-10 ||Ou-Ou-Kinsh Inlet.
Kyuquot Sound, Vancou-
ver Island..
2222
0
0
0
0
12 0
Esperanza Inlet, Vancou-
ver Island
12 0
F2222 2 2
12
12
12
12
12
12
Nuchatlitz Inlet, Vancou-
2 0
12
ver Island
12 0
12
6 30 7-10
Nootka Sound, Vancouver
Island
12 0
6 0
16
Barclay Sound
12 0
Clayoquot Sound.
12 0
222
noon.
noon.
12
12
Alaska, or North-west
America.
10-12
Duncan Bay, Chatham
5 0
14
Sound
12
0
Port Kuper
1
40
5 0 15
Port Simpson
0 35
2223
21
13
21/1
Portland Inlet (Salmon
Port Augusta
65
0
13
Cove
1 8
16
0
12
Sitkat
0 34
5-7
* May to October, from midnight to 3 a.m.
November to April from noon to 3 p.m.
The rise at Sitka as given by Commander Pearce, H.M.S. Alert, in his remarks in
1860, does not exceed 7 feet, but on the authority of Commander Pike, H.M.S. Devastation
(1862), the local pilots say that the rise sometimes is as much as 16 feet.
TIDES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
High
Water,
Rise.
Place.
Place.
Full and Springs
Change.
933
High
Water,
Rise.
Full and Springs
Change.
H. M.
FT.
Behring Bay
0
30
9
Sado (Yebisu)
Port Etches
1
15
91
Tsugar Strait
Port Chalmers....
1 0
13%
Port Chatham
1
0
12
Ounalashka Island
7 30
7/115
Cape Roshnoff
7 30
15
Good-news Bay
6 15
13/1/
Golovnin Bay
6
23
8
من اج
Hakodadi Harbour, Yezo
Island
Endermo Harbour, Yezo
Island
La Pérouse Strait
Yoku-hama, Yedo Bay
Port Clarence
4 25
Chamisso Island
4 42
Point Barrow
11 45
કાન
H. M.
5 0
5 0
FT.
25
2
LO
5
0
3
5 30
10 30
6
Tatiyama Bay
5 50
3808
6
6
5
J'atsizio
6 0
5
Port Simoda.
0
3-5
Heda Bay
5호
​Enora Bay
4
Kamchatka.
Simidsu.
7 30
Urakami
7
30
6
Avatcha Bay
3 30
6/1/1
Oösima
6 50
5
Tanabé Ki Channel
6 0
6
Uranouchi
Gulf of Tartary.
Cape Maria (Saghalin Id.)
Sea of Okhotsk..
Amur Strait......
Osaki
5 55
5
6/1/1
2
0
LO
5
Hiogo and Corvi Bays
Oösaka River (entrance).
Oösaka City
7 15
7 30
8 17
11
40
5-6 Kata Channel
6 4
Jonquiere Bay (E. coast)
10 0
6
Yura Harbour
6
5
•
Castries Bay
10
30
6
Barracouta Harbour
10
0
23/12/2
Akasi
Port Michael Seymour
5
30
3
Naruto (Fukura)
Awasima (Inland Sea)
6 17
6
36
0 14
COLO CO LO CO LO LO O CO ONO7
=IEMISMISHEHEHE
6/1/?
Napoleon Road (W. coast)
2 30
2/12
Tomo (Seto-uchi)
11 0?
St. Vladimir Bay
irr.
2
Japan.
Islands.
Karakakoa Bay, Owyhee 3 49
Nagasaki Bay (Nipon, S.
Coast)
Tama no Ura Harbour,
Iki
Goto Island
Tsu-sima Sound
Simonoseki
Honolulu, Sandwich Ids.
4 0
2
7 15
9
Pouinipet Island, Caroline
Islands
6 0
14/12
6-8 Saipan Island (Ladrone
ထ
8 30
8 30
∞ ∞ ∞
Islands)....
6 45
Pelew Islands
26
-12
(934)
3. CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
We have in many places in the other volumes of this series described the
general system of ocean currents, and the causes which set them in motion,
as far as is known, that but little need be said here on the subject. The
North Pacific is the most simple in the arrangement of its currents. It is a
basin of circulation, around a central area, lying along the tropic, analogous
to the Sargasso Sea in the North Atlantic, and having the same feature of a
broad equatorial stream setting westward, with more or less constancy, be-
tween 8° or 10° North and the tropic, a reverting and strongly marked cur-
rent, the Japanese current similar to the Gulf Stream, and a broad extra-
tropical belt setting generally eastward, but subject to much fluctuation.
But the North Pacific differs from the North Atlantic in not encountering
any arctic influences. Behring Strait is too narrow and shallow to allow
either the waters of the Pacific to flow into the Arctic basin, as is the case
with the warmer waters along the western coast of Europe, or to permit the
ice bearing streams from the polar basin to flow down to the Pacific, as
does the Labrador current. These varied changes are almost inappreciable
here.
There is some evidence of this in comparing the specific gravity of each
ocean (which comparison however cannot be said to be definitive, as the
North Atlantic has had much more extended observation bestowed on it*),
the mean specific gravity of the North Atlantic being 1.02664, while the
North Pacific, retaining its own vapours, so to speak, is 1.02548.
As has been stated in a former page (906), the area of the Pacific is so
great that the forces which act upon the waters of the smaller oceans, the
Atlantic and Indian Oceans, exert a much more marked effect on them than
they do on the currents of the Pacific. It is the same with the winds, and
thus its meteorology exhibits but few of those grander features which
may be found elsewhere, and pre-eminently characterise it as the "Pacific"
Ocean.
On this account the ocean currents are of less importance to the navigator
except in a few regions, such as near the Gulf of Panama, the coast of
Mexico, or the southward of Japan. Elsewhere they seem to exert no
* There is another element of fallacy in these observations for specific gravity. They
are frequently, perhaps generally, taken near the surface, or in that film of ocean water most
liable to fluctuation from evaporation or deposition. If a uniform series of observations
were taken, at a depth of say 50 fathoms, below all local disturbance, it may be predicted
that there will be found the greatest uniformity in the constitution of ocean water all over
the globe.

to face page 934.
120
135
150
165
180
60
50
S
SEA OF OKHOTSK
Kurile las
KAMTSCHATKA
165
150
135
120
105
90
75
NESE
Awatska B.
SEA OF
Behring I
Nuniwack
BEHRING
Pribuiloff Is
EUTIAN ARCH
CURRENT
Aliaska
Donatashka I.
60
Sitka
Kodiack Is
Q.Charlotte
Vancouver
De Fuca Str
Prig at $1
Columba R
NORTH
40
Sea of
Ja
apan
A
201
30
Z
Shanghard
Ning-P
Amoy
CANTON
Chusan
Bonin
oo Chool
6
13
Folcano
Madjico-sima L
Bashee Is
mosa
A
San Francisco
MERI C
Conception
CHART OF THE
PACIFIC OCEAN
shewing its
PREVALENT CURRENTS
by
A.G. FINDLAY.
Currents and their direction are shewn truus.
Whaling Grounds thus
50
New Yorke
WASHINGTON
40
Fatsisio
Oricans
What 9
und
130
Patrocinio I
Pearl R
inuadalupe 1.
Endymus
Necker I.
Tropic of Cancer
Alijos R
G.OF MEXICO
SANDWICH 18
Kousenstern R
C.S.Lucas
Maratlan
Blas
40
PHILIPPINE IPS
BORNEO
Pelew
Yap
OF
Ladronels
Guam
Mackenzie 1
CAROL
Molucca Ids
Seniavine
Valan I
Mariana RTH
Honolulu
mas
Baham
C
Hawaii
Vera Cri
20
E QUATOR
Cornwallis Is
CURR
Socorro I
Ma
a
rshallArch
Conchagua
Jamaica
EQUATORIAL COUNTER CURRENT
Pitt Is
Gilbert Arch
New Ireland
Byron I.
101
Java
Timor
Torres Str
EW GUINEA
inade
6
20
77643
SALOMON
19
OUT H
New
0
"Ellice
Ellice Gr
FEEJEF IS
Phonic Gr.
Dof York I
QUA
Samoa or
Navigators Is
4
Friendly
ords.
Maldon I
ORIA
LOW
SOCIETY
Cook's Is
Tahiti
IS
Palmyras 1.
2
Christmas I
Equator
Cocos I
Panan
10
Gof Darion
Galapagosl
AL
MARQUESAS I
EN T
Whaling Ground
XN प्रसन
Choro B
Quito
Guayaquil
Sechura B
QUT
RCHIPELAGO
S
CallaoLIMA
τατο
Arica
10
AUSTRALIA
Moreton B
30
Perth
RRENT
SYDNEY
Adelaide
Clove
Melbou
40
VAN DIEMENS
AUSTRALIAN
Toubouai
Norfolk I
Kermadec 1.
La Howe I.
B.of Ta
Tongatabu
Pitcairn I
Ducie I.
G
Tropic of Capricorn
Easterl
Sala-y-Gomez 1.
S. Ambrose
Juan Fernande
PERUVIAN
OR
A
M
20
Copiapo
Coquimbo
Valparaiso
Concepcion
130
Wellington
140
Hobarto
ཡ
N
ook Str.
Chatham
of Chiloe
50
Auckland1
O
Campbell 1.
Bounty
Macquarie I.
Line of uniform temperature/390.5) and density of Ocean Water /p. 1225.)
60
120
135
150
165
180
765
150
135
R.H. LAURIE, 53 FLEET STREET, LONDON.
Dougherty I
N
T
Falldand Is
50
Str. of Magalhaens
CAFE HORN
Ramirez
Statenl
CURR
C.Horn
Diego
120
105
90
75
60
60
A Findlay fecit.
!
THE NORTH EQUATORIAL CURRENT.
935
very definite influence on a ship's course. What follows is chiefly from our
first edition.
THE NORTH EQUATORIAL CURRENT.
The Northern Equatorial Current extending to the mean latitude of 24°
North, is subject to the variations experienced in the southern portion of this
extensive drift.
In its eastern portion there is no well-marked origin, as is the case in the
Peruvian current flowing to the N.W. and westward at the Galapagos
islands. On the contrary, as is elsewhere remarked, the Mexican coast cur-
rents are comparatively weak and undecided, so that there is some source
from whence the westward tendency of the ocean is derived, beyond the ap-
parent effects of the trade-wind and the action of the suns' heat.
Whether it is the effect of heat, or from the continued action of the trade
winds, one fact seems to be tolerably well determined, and that is, in the
circulation of the oceanic waters around their respective basins, the greatest
velocity or force of the currents is at their outer limits; this force gradually
diminishes within the area, and leaves a space not acted on by the circula-
tory movement, and which area, by analogy, we should expect to find of a
higher temperature than might be calculated on if the polar streams should
not add their lowering influence. Following this theory we must expect to
find them in greater force nearer the equator, a fact apparently established.
And in the central portion of the North Pacific there does not appear to
be any regularity of the set of the waters, and the limit before assigned may
even be too high, as the Sandwich islands, in lat. 20°, do not appear to be
surrounded by any permanent current.
The following remarks by Captain Wilkes is confirmatory of this ;—After
passing the parallel of 10° N. we began to feel the effects of the current that
is ascribed to the influence of the trade winds, and this continued without
much diminution of strength until we lost the trades in lat. 19° N. The
drift of this current was 271 miles in a direction S. 71° W.”—Vol. v.,
p. 476.
Captain Wilkes continues:-" At the Sandwich islands I am not disposed
to think, from any observations I had an opportunity of making, that there
are any regular currents, or any set of the waters, except what is caused by
the winds. There is, in fact, rarely any difficulty in beating to windward;
the time of passing between the islands is about the same at all seasons of
the year;
and I found none in beating up to my port in any reasonable time
after falling to leeward of it. Their position is assimilated to St. Helena.
The temperature of the waters around these islands is about the same as that
which prevails in the ocean in the neighbourhood, a fact which I consider to
be a proof that no polar current reaches them." The circumstance of pine
936
CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
timber being drifted on to the East end of Kauai, as noticed on page 852,
would almost prove, beyond a doubt, that the currents were, at times,
to the south-east from the coast of America, where the timber apparently
came from; but another circumstance, equally conclusive in an opposite di-
rection, is the drift of a Japanese junk, as related presently.
Our observations on the set of the waters to the West of this, between
lat. 10° and 20° N., need be but few. That westerly currents are those pre-
valent is undoubted; but their northern limits, or velocity and regularity,
do not appear to be well known.
Kotzebue, when he first saw the Marshall islands in 1817, intended to have
examined them, but he was drifted through them by so strong a current to
the West, that he could not recover his position.
The currents at the Marianas are also subject to great variations. Captain
Golownin met with a rapid current, bearing to the N.E., though the wind
blew from that quarter, and a Spanish officer affirms that a similar current
generally flows at this part. It is probable that the westerly monsoon,
which is felt at the Marianas, from the middle of June to the middle of
October, according to Freycinet, may cause a reversion of the usual
current.
Captain Marchand, in La Solide, when to the eastward of Tinian, in long.
148° 14', to 148° 34', calculated that he had been set 41.6 miles to the east-
ward in 48 hours; this was on Nov. 2-4, 1791.-(Fleurieu's Voyage of
Marchand, vol ii, p. 420.)
The American Expedition found the currents strong to the northward and
westward, to the N.E. of the Mariana islands.-(Vol. v, p. 268.)
The parallel of 30° N. is a favourite one with the whalers, as Captain
Beechey states (vol. i, p. 236), and it is hereabout that we might look for
that line of demarcation which separates the easterly and north-easterly
drift of the ocean waters, occasioned by the trade winds. According to
Captain Wilkes, great quantities of janthina, the soft mollusc of which serves
as food for the whale, were found on the verge of the trade, in lat. 26° N.,
long. 168° W., the trade having failed a degree to the southward. Again,
when the Expedition was in about lat. 30° N., long. 180°, vast quantities of
anatifa, another mollusc, were found to lie in a W.S.W. and E.N.E. direc-
tion.-(Vol. v, p. 109.)
This arrangement of their locality would certainly appear to indicate some
combined influence of current. The temperature of the adjacent water is not
stated, but it is probable that some variation would have been found to the
northward and southward of this line of zoophytes. We have not materials
wherewith to pursue this subject further; nor have we any distinct notion of
the set of the currents, if any, to the westward of the Marianas. But it is
certain that the equatorial current reappears in the form of a warm N.E.
THE EQUATORIAL COUNTER CURRENT.
937
current to the South of the Japanese Archipelago, the progress of which will
be presently traced.
THE EQUATORIAL COUNTER CURRENT.
In our general remarks on the winds on page 908, it is said that in the
aerial systems of the Pacific, as elsewhere, there was a space between the
two great belts called the N.E. and S.E. trade winds, in which the wind was
variable and light, and in which calms and rains prevailed.
This zone of
variable winds, as they are known, is affected, in their breadth and latitude,
by the annual progress of the sun in the ecliptic.
In the current systems we have a precisely analogous phenomenon--that
of a body of water moving with more or less regularity to the eastward,
bounded to the North and South by currents moving in the opposite direc-
tion. This counter current has been traced, with considerable certainty,
nearly across the entire breadth of the Pacific: and the ensuing extracts
will explain its character. The first is the observation made by Captain
Lütke, in his traverse in the Séniavine.
After crossing the parallel of 30°, in long. 81°, we had for forty-eight hours,
and during light winds and calms, a weak current between N. and N.W.;
and then for a fortnight, from lat. 28° S., and long 116°, that is for a space
of 2,400 Italian miles, we scarcely felt any current at all.
In lat. 26° we
had a S.E. wind, which passed insensibly to the condition of a true trade-
wind, and which even sometimes blew freshly, but all this did not produce
any current; during two or three different days we had a weak current to
the West, following the wind, and for as many days returning against the
wind. In the course of this fortnight the difference between this estimated
longitude and that by the chronometer did not exceed 20', and there was none
in latitude.
Between lat. 10° and 2° S., there was for four days, during which the
trade wind, without blowing strongly, was constant and equal, a tolerably
strong westerly current, the mean velocity of which to the West by North
was 17 miles in 24 hours.
In lat. 2° South, the trade wind left us, and the current shifted also
to the East, then to N.E., and again to S.E., but more to this last quarter
as far as 8° or 10° North latitude, where the N.E. trade stopped it. The
mean effect of this current was East 6° South, 12 miles in twenty-four
hours.
For the sixteen days that the current just spoken of lasted, there were but
two which showed any exception, but to compensate they were very
striking; this was between lat. 1° and 4° N., where the currents drifted
us, in forty-eight hours, 75 miles directly to the N.W., in extremely light
airs between East and S.E., and sometimes during almost an entire calm.
9.38
CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
This easterly current could here be attributed to light, variable winds
coming from the western quarter, but the same thing occurred in the neigh-
bourhood of the Caroline islands, when the N.E. trade wind blew constantly
and sometimes with considerable strength. In approaching the island of
Ualan, we found a S.E. current in lat. 8°, and long. 163° E. To the West
of this meridian the easterly current did not extend toward the N. beyond
the parallel of 7°, and toward the South, in general, beyond that of 51°.
Between these parallels, and as far as long. 152° E., in the course of more
than three weeks (in January), we did not once have westerly currents, but
always to the East, inclining to the South in the eastern moiety of this space,
and more to the North in the western half. There was no exception to this
order, except between the Séniavine islands, where the neighbourhood of
coasts and the action of the tides might easily interrupt the regularity of the
usual currents. Its mean effect, during these three weeks, was 8.3 miles in
the 24 hours to the E. by N.
We had no sooner passed to the North of the parallel of 610, in long.
152° E., than we got into a strong current to the West, which did not leave
us afterwards. To the West of 152° E. we did not get but once to the
South of the parallel of 7° (from the 9th to the 12th of April, in long 144°
East), and we also found the current inclining to the East. To the South of
the parallel of 5°, on the meridian of the island of Ualan, the current
bore chiefly to S.W., but then once, in lat. 3°, the current was to the E. 13
miles in 24 hours.
A zone of easterly currents, between the constant westerly currents, as
well in the western as in the eastern part of the Pacific, has also been no-
ticed by other navigators. Captains Hunter and Wilson found it more to the
South than we did, in the limits of the Caroline Archipelago. Captain Du-
perrey, between lat. 2° and 6° North, and 7° to 10° East of Ualan, had cur-
rents to the S.E. and N.E., but on approaching this last island, they were
still more to the S.W.; again, between the equator and 81° N., and long.
148° E. and 137° E., he refound the easterly currents. Admiral Krusenstern
places the limits of this East current, meridionally, at the equator, and the
parallel of 6°; from our experience, these limits are 5° and 7°, although in
long. 163° E. we had already met with them. Captain Freycinet found
strong East currents between the latitudes of 9° 20′ and 4° N., and lʊng.
149° and 144° W. Captain Beechey, in his route from the Society islands
to the Sandwich islands, found between the equator and 4° N., where he got
into the N.E. trade wind, a N.N.E. current, the mean activity of which was
18 miles in twenty-four hours. Captain Wendt, in the Prussian merchant-
ship Princesse Louise, found in three different years, between the parallels of
6° 30′ N. and 10° 30° N., and long. 125° and 131° W., currents from the
N.E. quarter, of a velocity of from 17 to 25 miles. From all appearances,
these easterly currents have some connection with each other; but we do not
THE EQUATORIAL COUNTER CURRENT.
939
yet possess a sufficiently large number of facts from which to deduce a gene-
ral view of the subjects.
To the North of this eastern current, within the limits of the easterly
winds, we also found a constant current to the West, inclining in some parts
towards the North, in others to the South. Between the parallels of 7° and
9°, where we passed at different times more than a month, the currents con-
stantly bore away between W.S.W. and W. by S. In the months of Feb,
ruary and March, between long. 152° and 146°, their mean force was, in 11
days, of 15 miles in twenty-four hours, to S. 83° W.; between long. 147°
and 144°, in the same interval of time, of 8 miles to S. 71° W. In Novem-
ber and December, between long. 156° and 140°, in sixteen days, of 14·4
miles in twenty-four hours, to S. 79° W. Farther on, towards the West, in
our route to the China Sea, we experienced nearly the same currents,
their direction and force being in general 16 miles in twenty-four hours,
to S. 70° W.
To the North of lat. 9° the currents inclined more to the West of North.
In the eastern half of the Pacific (between long. 130° and 146°, from lat.
10° to 30°) we found their general direction to be N. 86° W., and their force
11.7 miles in twenty-four hours. In the western half, on our route to the
island of Guahan, their general direction, in the interval of four days, was
found to be N. 75° W., 22 miles in twenty-four hours; and on our return
from the Caroline Archipelago, under the same apparent circumstances, and
in the same interval, S. 49° W., 22 miles in twenty-four hours. In leaving
the Carolines in April, as far as lat. 22°, where the trade winds left us (from
long. 143° to 139° E.), we had constant westerly currents, the general action
of which, in ten days, was N. 52° W., 18.3 miles in 24 hours; and in re-
turning from the North to this archipelago in November, we had these
N.W. currents for the greater part of the time, up to the period of our
meeting with the trade winds, in lat. 26° (long. 199° to 204°); and we found
their mean rate in nine days to be 14.7 miles in twenty-four hours, to N. 69°
W. On the meridian of the island of Ualan, on the contrary, as far as the
parallel of 28°, also in November, the general direction of the current was
S. 43°. W., 18 miles in twenty-four hours.
We did not observe that the direction or strength of the trade winds deter-
mined the direction of the current to the North or South of West. These
different inclinations occurred with winds perfectly the same; we must,
therefore, rather seek the reason in some local circumstances if they should
not proceed from some general and permanent cause, and are not an acci-
dental phenomenon, changing without order.
A correspondent of the "Nautical Magazine" also speaks of this reverse
current :-In July, 1833, on the eqnator, in long. 175° E., a current of about
2 or 3 knots an hour ran to the eastward for fourteen or fifteen days, al-
though the wind was then fresh from the eastward; and it was thought that
940
CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
such changes have generally occurred once a year, probably induced by a
strong S.W. or westerly monsoon in North latitude, reaching at this time
near the line. They are fitful changes, and not to be depended on, nor
can their extent to the eastward be stated.-(Nautical Magazine, January,
1843, p. 5.)
Captain Wilkes says:-"On our route to the northward we crossed a
stream setting to the westward, which extends as far westward as the
Kingsmill group, between lat. 2° S. and 3° N., after which we encountered
another, setting with equal velocity to the East, between lat. 4° and 9° N.
This last tropical counter current was traced by us between the same parallel
nearly across the Pacific, from the long. of 170° E. to the long. of 138° W.
We had no opportunity of ascertaining ourselves whether it exists to the
westward of the Mulgrave islands. But Horsburgh, and several other
authorities, mention the prevalence of an easterly current as far to the
West as the Sea of Celebes, and particularly in lat. 4° N."-(Vol. v., p.
476.)
At the Gilbert Archipelago, during violent gales from S.W., which pre-
vail from October to April, trunks of large trees are thrown upon the West
sides of the islands, together with large lumps of resin, similar to that found
in the soil of New Zealand.
Captain Bristow found the current strong from West to East at the Purdy
Islets, in February and March, 1817.
The following remarks are by Admiral Krusenstern :—
"This current, bearing from West to East, forms to the North of the
equator a zone which extends to the 6th degree of latitude, and the velocity
of which is frequently 20 leagues in the twenty-four hours. Ships returning
from China in the opposite season, that is, during the S.W. monsoon, and
proceeding by the Pacific Ocean towards the Strait of Ganem, do not gene-
rally go farther towards the East than the Pelew Isles; but if they do not
pay great attention to this current, they will usually be carried several de-
grees towards the East.
The best means of avoiding this stream of cur-
rent is to attempt to cross it as quickly as possible from North to South,
because South of the equator the S.E. trade is met with, accompanied by
a current bearing to the West, the rate of which, near the coast of New
Guinea, is from 15 to 40 miles in the twenty-four hours, in a West and
W.N.W. directions."
Sir Edward Belcher inferred the existence of this easterly current on ap-
proaching Clipperton island, as noticed on page 786 ante. The island is in
lat. 10° 17′ N., long. 109° 10′ W. He says:-"No living trees were seen,
but the whole island was covered with gannet, boobies, frigate pelican, and
several kinds of tern, which had also been noticed in great numbers during
the previous week, at least 500 miles to the eastward. From this an easterly
THE JAPANESE CURRENT.
941
current may be inferred, as these birds generally keep in its stream or tail
course."
Vancouver found a strong current (24 knots), setting to the eastward and
N.E. when off Cocos island, as mentioned hereafter.
These observations will demonstrate that between lat. 4° and 10° N.,
which limits may be subject to some fluctuation, there is a current run-
ning to the eastward, or against the usual course of the inter-tropical winds
and the drift of the ocean on either side of it, and extending from the
western extremity of the Pacific as far as long. 115° W., and perhaps beyond
this, if the Peruvian cold current should not extend beyond that latitude in
this meridian.
THE JAPANESE CURRENT.
The movements of the waters, as well as of the atmosphere, seem to be
on a more limited scale, and less decidedly marked, in the northern Pacific
than they are in the southern hemisphere. This is probably owing to its
comparatively enclosed character. From this cause it deserves, in some de-
gree, the title of Pacific, and its navigation is not attended with any dif-
ficulty, as any ordinary ship may, with perseverance, work to windward in
its central portion.
But toward its western side the movement of the ocean becomes manifest,
and we find a great analogy in this respect to that of the North Atlantic,
and accordingly, a very distinctly characterized current in the Pacific fol-
lows a parallel course to that of the Gulf Stream, well known in the
Atlantic.
From the different configuration of the land, however, the absence of any
western barrier, such as the Mexican coast presents to the western progress
of the Atlantic waters, and the contraction of its channel by the Bahama
Islands, this Pacific Gulf Stream has not such a distinct character as is seen
in the Gulf of Florida. Still this warm ocean river may be traced in its
course by observation and analogy around the northern side of the North
Pacific.
This current, in the earlier part of its course, has been noticed by several
navigators, especially Captains King, Krusenstern, and Broughton, whose
remarks will be given presently.
The first point which may be noticed in it is the authority of the Japanese
charts. On all of them, as shown by Von Siebold and Krusenstern, between
Fatsizio and the Mokiera Islands, that is, off the S.E. part of Nipon, South
of Jedo, the capital, a current to the eastward is marked, called the Kuro
Siwo Stream, or as Krusenstern calls it, Kourosegawa, or the Current of the
Black Gulf. The latter adds this remark :-"This current is 20 matsi (five-
ninths of a Japanese ri, that is, about three-quarters of a mile) 15 miles
942
CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
broad. For 10 matsi it has a very rapid course. In winter and spring it is
very difficult to navigate, but in summer and autumn vessels can pass it."
Captain Gore, after the deaths of Captains Cook and Clerke, returned
from the northward in the Resolution, making the coast of Japan in the be-
ginning of November, 1779. Captain King states that, in this passage,
when they approached the S.E. part of Japan, they were drifted by a strong
current from the S.W., and that when they reached the latitude of 35° 43′,
in eight hours, instead of making a course of 9 leagues to the S.W., they
had been carried 8 leagues from the position they had left in a diametrically
opposite direction, giving a velocity and direction to the current of at least
four miles an hour to the N.E. by N., the longitude being 141° 16'. Capt.
King makes the following comments on this:-As the strong currents which
set along the eastern coast of Japan may be of dangerous consequence to
the navigator who is not aware of their extraordinary rapidity, I shall take
leave of this island with a summary account of their force and direction, as
observed from the 1st to the 8th of November. On the 1st, at which
time we were about 18 leagues to the eastward of White Point, the current
set N.E. by N., at the rate of 3 miles an hour; on the 2nd, as we approached
the shore, we found it continuing in the same direction, but increased in its
rapidity to 5 miles an hour; as we left the shore it again became more
moderate, and inclined to the eastward; on the 3rd, at the distance of 60
leagues, it set to the E.N.E., 3 miles an hour; on the 4th and 5th, it turned
to the southward, and at 120 leagues from the land its direction was S.E.,
and its rate not more than 1 mile an hour; on the 6th and 7th it again
shifted round to the N.E.; its force gradually diminishing till the 8th, when
we could no longer perceive any at all. This calculation would make it
about 250 miles broad off this part of the Japanese coast.
The next authority we shall quote for it is Admiral Krusenstern, who
passed to the eastward of the islands, September, 1804. From the intro-
ductory portion of his great work we extract the following:-
The currents constantly run to the N.E. From the Strait of Sangar, as
far as the parallel of 36°, we had daily a current, which carried us N.E. }
East, at the rate of 10 miles in the twenty-four hours. From the latitude
of 36° to 35°, being about 70 leagues from land, it bore towards the E.N.E.,
with a velocity of 2 miles an hour. From the parallel of 35° to 341° the
current bore to N.E. & N., 1 mile an hour; we were then 60 leagues from
land. Traversing the islands lying to the South of the Gulf of Jedo, we
felt a current bearing to S. W., with a velocity of nearly a mile an hour;
but after having passed these islands some degrees to the West, we again
met with the former current bearing to the N.E.
When we discovered the coast of Japan upon the parallel of 31°, and
particularly the southern part of the Isle Sikokf, the current carried us to
the N.E., 3 miles an hour. Captain Broughton ranged near the eastern
THE JAPANESE CURRENT.
943
coast of Japan during the months of November and July. We see by his
journal that he constantly felt a current which carried him to the N.E., at
2 miles an hour, with this difference, nevertheless, that during the month of
November the current bore more toward the North, and in July more to the
East, but always between these two directions. We can conclude from the
foregoing, that the currents upon the eastern coast of Japan are subjected
to fixed laws, at least during the months of July, September, and October,
and that their strength and force depend on the distance where they are
met with from the coast.
It would be easy to multiply evidence of its character, but we take the
description given of it in Commodore Perry's account of his mission to
Japan, by Captain Silas Bent, as derived from the investigations by the
U.S. officers in 1854 (pp. 601-3).
It is an immense oceanic current on the East coast of Asia, which will be
found on the adjoining chart as delineated from the observations made by
the Expedition, and bears a striking analogy, in every essential point, to the
Gulf Stream of the Atlantic.
The results of these observations show quite conclusively that the stream
has its origin in the great equatorial current of the Pacific, from which it is
separated by the South end of Formosa, about the latitude of 22° N., long.
122° E., whence it is deflected to the northward along the East coast of For-
mosa, until reaching the parallel of 60° North, when it bears off to the
northward and eastward, washing the whole S.E. coast of Japan as far as
the Straits of Sangar.
Near its origin the stream is contracted, and is usually confined between
the islands of Formosa and Majico-sima, with a width of 100 miles, but to
the northward of the latter it rapidly expands on its southern limit, and
reaches the Lew Chew and Bonin groups, attaining a width to the northward
of the latter of 500 miles.
The north-western edge of the stream is strongly marked by a sudden
thermal change in the water, of from 10° to 20°, but the southern and eastern
limit is less distinctly defined, there being a gradual thermal approximation
of the air and water.
Along the borders of the stream where it chafes against the counter
currents and torpid waters of the ocean; as also in its midst, where whirls
and eddies are produced by islands and the inequalities in its bed, strong
tide rips are encountered, often resembling heavy breakers on reefs or shoals.
Its average velocity, between the South end of Formosa and the Straits of
Sangar, was found to be from 35 to 40 miles per twenty-four hours. Yet,
upon one occasion, off the Gulf of Yedo, its maximum strength is recorded
as high as 80 miles per day.
To the northward of the parallel of 40° N. in long. 143° E. there is a cold
counter current intervening between it and the South coast of Yesso, as
.944
CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
shown by a sudden thermal change in the water, of from 16° to 20°, which,
it is believed, sets to the westward, through the Straits of Sangar, but the
limited stay of the squadron in that vicinity, and the harassing prevalence
of fogs, prevented such observations being made as to satisfactorily deter-
mine whether or not there was a predominant current flowing in either
direction, or whether it was merely the ebb and flow of the tides through
the straits. To the westward, however, of a line connecting the North end
of Formosa, and the south-western extremity of Japan, a cold counter cur-
rent was again found, which sets to the southward through the Formosa
channel into the China Sea, and it does not, therefore, seem unreasonable to
believe that a hyperborean current will be found in the Japan Sea, setting
to the southward between the Japanese Islands and the main coast of Asia,
fed by that on the South coast of Yesso, and supplying that one setting
through the Formosa channel.
The Japanese are well aware of the existence of the Great Stream which
washes the south-eastern shore of their empire, and have given it the name
of Kuro-Siwo, or Black Stream, from its deep blue colour when compared
with the neighbouring waters of the ocean.
It was also noticed by Captains Cook, Krusenstern, and other explorers,
but no systematic series of observations, it is believed, has ever before been
made upon it.
The average maximum temperature of the Kuro-Siwo is 86°, and the
difference between its temperature and that of the ocean due to the latitude
is about 12°. There is no counter current intervening between the Kuro-
Siwo and the coast of Japan, to the southward of the Straits of Sangar, and
nothing was found to manifest the existence of such a current as under-
running that stream, and although the observations indicate strata of cool
water, lying in the longitudinal direction of the Kuro-Siwo, yet their tem-
perature varied but a few degrees from the main body of the stream, and
was almost invariably superior to that of the atmosphere above them. The
insular position of Japan, and the separation of the cold counter current
from the Kuro-Siwo, allowing the latter to hug close along the south-eastern
shores of the islands, have a modifying influence upon the climate of the
empire, making it milder and more equable than in corresponding latitudes
on the East coast of the United States. There is a floating sea-weed found
in the Kuro-Siwo, similar in appearance to the Fucus natans of the Gulf
Stream.
In the passage of the Mississippi from Simoda to the Sandwich Islands
the thermometer showed a cold aqueous space between the meridians of
155° E. and 170° W. and the parallels of 30° and 35° N. which bears a
general correspondence in the Pacific to the position of the Sargasso Sea in
the Atlantic.
Thus far the definition of the Japanese current rests on positive evidence
THE JAPANESE CURRENT.
945
of unexceptionable character, as far as regards the seasons in which they
were made. But its effects may be traced to the northward and westward.
It reaches the coast of Kamchatka. The mildness of the climate about
Awatska Bay is attributed to the warm (Japanese) current coming from the
south-westward, and thus ameliorates the severity of the winter. The com-
parative freedom from ice of the bays and inlets is also another evidence of
its influence. The universal fogs which prevail, too, in the vicinity of the
islands in the western portion of the Sea of Behring, arising, as is most
probable, from the difference of temperature between the air and water, also
indicates the same fact, and is perhaps analogous to the same phenomenon
on the banks of Newfoundland, arising from the Gulf Stream.
The destruction of a Japanese junk occurred near the South end of the
Kamchatkan Peninsula in July, 1729. It was proceeding to the Port of
Ohosaka in the South of Japan, and was drifted away by a violent storm to
the N.E., and at last reached the place alluded to. This is also corrobo-
rative.
Another and similar circumstance of a Japanese junk which had drifted
from its destination, and anchored, in December, 1832, at Oahu, Sandwich
Islands. Although the currrents in the vicinity of this group do not seem to
be very well defined in their character, and we shall adduce one of an oppo-
site nature, this circumstance must also be considered as an evidence of the
easterly drift from Japan.
But we may look still further to the East. A Japanese junk was wrecked
near Cape Flattery, in Oregon, in 1833. This last is detailed by Washing-
ton Irving, in his "Astoria." These singular occurrences at once attest
the tendency of the currents, and open a wide field for discussion on the
migration of the inhabitants of eastern Asia and the peopling of the western
world.
As an intermediate point where we may look for indirect evidence of the
progress of this stream, the South extremity of Kodiak Island may be ad-
duced. Here the remains of Japanese wrecks, recognised by the camphor-
wood used in them, and other Japanese articles are found. We have no
direct experiments recorded of the force or prevalence of the current to the
South of the Aleutian Islands, but it may be supposed, from what has been
said, to trend to the eastward towards the coast of N.W. America, and then
assume a more southerly direction. This theory is confirmed by the ensu-
ing remarks of Commander Wilkes, of the United States' Exploring Expe-
dition: -Our passage from the Hawaiian group to the N.W. coast gave
interesting results in relation to the currents. They were irregular until we
reached the latitude of 27° N., after which we were strongly affected by
a south-east current, whose influence continued until we reached the coast
of Oregon.
At this time it ran at the rate of 50 miles in twenty-four
hours; but when the Peacock traversed this same space, ninety days later,
North Pacific.
3 P
946
CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
the velocity had not only diminished, but what current was found was nearly
in an opposite direction. In relation to the extent of this S.E. current in
the months of March and April, I have no precise information, nor can I
supply it from others, since those who had previously visited this part of the
ocean had not paid sufficient attention to this subject to furnish any precise
data. All, however, agree in the fact, that they were affected by a S.E.
current, often reaching the longitude of 130° W. and the latitude of 35° N.
We
may conclude our remarks on this part of the ocean with the observa-
tions of Admiral Lütke, whose scientific character and ample means com-
mand all confidence ;-
In the same way that the constant West current within the limit of the
N.E. trade-winds is explained by the constant easterly winds, so beyond this
limit we met with such currents as the prevalent wind would afford an ex-
planation. We met with but one exception to this rule. In the three
traverses to the South of Kamchatka and back again, between lat. 30° and
40° to 45°, and long. 162° and 146°, we found, even with easterly winds,
currents to the East. In our route from the Bonin-sima Islands to Kam-
chatka, in May, 1828, we felt the first effect of this current, in lat. 33° 42',
where in two days it carried us 74 miles to the N.E., in calms and extremely
light S.E. winds. From thence, in lat. 45°, we had for ten days, with only
two exceptions, always currents to the East, although during all this time.
the wind was between S.E. and N.E., and that they blew sometimes very
freshly. The mean action in this interval was 15 miles in twenty-four hours
to N. 47° E. The current after that bore even more to S. E., but then
during fresh winds from N.W. In the route from Kamchatka to Ualan,
in October and November, we found the first S.E. current in lat. 38° during
S.E. winds; the currents towards the East quarter kept up for eight days,
the strongest occurred this time too in about lat. 34°, when we were drifted,
in twenty-four hours, 35 miles N. 5° E., the wind nearly calm. Its mean
action in these eight days was 8.6 miles in twenty-four hours, to the E.S.E.
We found it in the same manner, and a year later, in lat. 40°, during a
strong S.E. wind, or S.E. current. It was not then so marked, but as far as
lat. 31° its general direction was towards the N.E. quarter, and afterwards, in
lat. 27, we again found the S.E. current, two consecutive days, of 10 miles
in twenty-four hours, with the weather nearly calm, or extremely light East
winds.
Capt. Beechey found the same during three days in about lat. 35° N., long.
166° E.; the currents then from 40 miles to the S.E. to 6 miles to the South,
and 19 miles to S.E. by S.
These currents have a remarkable analogy with those which have been
observed in the same latitude on the coast of Japan, where strong E. and
N.E. currents predominate. In comparing these phenomena with each
THE JAPANESE CURRENT.
947
other, the conviction cannot be avoided that some connexion exists between
them.
This is the only current in the northern part of the Pacific Ocean in which
any sort of constancy has been observed independent of the prevalent winds,
with the exception of this, we usually found that the currents followed the
prevailing wind. To the North of this parallel of 42°, in the western part
of the sea, we chanced to have the wind almost always from the East, and
with it currents to the West, which, during fresh breezes, were sometimes
of 20 miles per day, and when it fell calm they ceased entirely. In some
cases, on the contrary, when the winds passed to N. W., the current then
turned to S.E.; the immediate influence of the wind was here evident. The
same may be affirmed for the space comprised between the parallels of 30°
and 32° and the limits of the N.E. trade-wind, although we have met with
some exceptions. In our route from the Caroline archipelago to the Bonin-
sima Islands we lost the trade-wind in lat. 22°, and thence to lat. 27° we had
constantly currents to the North, which corresponded more with the direction
of the wind than with its strength, they being sometimes very strong with
very light airs. Their mean action in the interval of six days was 15.3 miles
in twenty-four hours, to N. 9° E. To the North of the Bonin-sima Islands
until we got into the N.E. current above described, we had westerly cur-
rents of the mean rate of 12 miles in twenty-four hours, with the winds fresh
from East. Further to the eastward, on the corresponding parallels, the
currents were also to S. W., with westerly winds.
In the eastern part of the ocean, on our route to the N.W. part of
America, the easterly winds accompanied us from lat. 30° to lat. 45°, with
such constancy that we could not observe any change from the trade to the
variable winds. Further on, until we reached within sight of the land, the
East winds still continued, but they were neither so fresh nor so steady as
before. During the whole of this time the current was sometimes N.W.,
at others S.W., varying in strength from 5 to 15 miles, its mean velocity in
the space of fifteen days being 8.6 miles per day to S. 87° W.
On leaving the N.W. coast of America we likewise experienced a S.W.
current, but then it was more decided. In the first four days, up to lat. 54°,
long. 142°, it carried us to S.S.W. at the rate of 10 miles per day, even with
winds from the West; it was only arrested once by a very strong wind from
S.W.
Further on, on our route to Ounalashka, during which contrary
winds obliged us to bear to the South, as far as lat. 483°, we did not have,
in the course of eleven days, up to lat. 52°, long. 160°, any sort of current;
thence to Ounalashka there was a weak current between N.W and S.W.
Its mean drift in twenty-four hours was, in four days, 6 miles S. 76° W.
The currents experienced by us do not at all correspond with those
observed by the Russian colonial marine, who found the motion of the water,
driven by the almost continual West and S. W. winds, in general follows the
8 P 2
948
CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
direction of the coasts, in running to the North as far as Cook's Inlet, or
Kenaïskoï Bay, and from thence to the S.W. Between the N.W. coast of
America and the meridian of Kodiak the latitude observed is always greater
than that by the reckoning, and quite the contrary further towards Ouna-
lashka. Articles that have been dropped or been thrown overboard from
vessels at 100 miles to the S.W. of Sitka have been found in Prince Wil
liam's Sound, or Tchougatskoï Bay; this shows also that the currents run to
the North or N.E., and from this arises the great quantity of debris, of every
description, thrown on shore in the neighbourhood of this bay. The cur-
rent to the S.W. and S.S.W. along the Strait of Chelekhoff and the South
coast of Aliaska, as well as to the South coast of Kodiak, is confirmed by the
inhabitants of this latter island, who search for and always find the wounded
whales that have been abandoned, in the direction of Oukamok Island,
where they are carried by the drift of the current. The strength of the
southerly current, at 150 miles to the South of Kodiak, has been sometimes
found to be 60 miles in twenty-four hours. This southerly current is some-
times met with at 3° to the East of the meridian of Kodiak, and extends to
the passages between the Aleutian Islands, in which there are also periodic
currents to the North, stronger than the opposing currents to the South.
It is remarked, in general, that in spring and autumn the current is more
strong and constant than in the other seasons; this perhaps explains why
we did not find them in the order described.—(Voyage du Séniavine.)
In addition to the foregoing there will be found, on pages 687-8 ante,
some further remarks on the great Japan Stream, which include the brief
notes on its progress into the Japan Sea by Capt. Chas. Bullock, R.N.
SEA OF JAPAN.
There exists at present but little information regarding the navigation of
the Sea of Japan. The winds there appear very available, and the currents,
depending on special causes, are at times insignificant, whilst at others they
run with great strength. The only thing known with certainty is, that the
Japan Stream, as a rule (although with many variations of velocity, direc-
tion, and breadth, and much influenced by the wind), holds its way north-
eastward from Korea Strait, and enters the Pacific by the Strait of Tsugar;
also that a stream is usually found in the autumn months setting to the
E.S.E. through La Pérouse Strait; and in the summer along the coast of
Manchuria to the S.W.
There seems to be no regularity in the currents along the western coast of
this sea; they are in general very feeble, increasing only off the abrupt
points of the coast. Broughton, who in October, 1797 passed close along
this coast, notices a current setting to the S.S.W. at the rate of 1 mile an
hour. The French frigate Virginie, in July, 1856, found weak currents
setting to the northward at a mean rate of 10 miles in twenty-four hours.
(949)
SEA OF OKHOTSK.
The direction of the currents in this sea is uncertain; they are found to
increase in strength as the land is approached.
Near Cape Elizabeth, and on approaching the Gulf of Amúr, heavy over-
falls and ripples occur, which appear to be produced by shallow surface
currents, and they often render a vessel quite unmanageable. On some
occasions, in a steady 5-knot breeze, vessels have been for hours with their
head in the wrong direction, unable to answer the helm or trim of sails.
A strong surface current here may naturally be expected, as the immense
body of water from the Amúr, meeting with the obstruction caused by
Saghalin Island, effects its escape by the largest outlet, rushing over the
shallow banks at the mouth of the river, and continuing its course, following
the line of coast round Cape Elizabeth, causes, especially with East and
S.E. winds, a dangerous race, extending off shore 3 or 4 miles, and setting
strong to the southward along the eastern coast of Saghalin, where, for some
distance, the sea is discoloured by it.
SEA OF BEHRING.
A portion of the Japanese current and the general drift induced by the
prevailing S.W. winds enters the Sea of Behring from the S.S.W., and
exerts considerably influence on the climates of the respective shores. But
in a nautical sense they are unimportant, and may be dismissed with the
following extract from Mr. Simpson's remarks, drawn up while in H.M.S.
Plover in 1852:
In the absence of actual observations for determining the currents in these
seas, the proofs of the existence of such a one as that described are collected
from other circumstances, the chief of which are as follow :—
In the beginning of summer the eastern side, South of the strait, is free
from ice, and Norton Bay itself is usually cleared as early as April. After
the middle of June not a particle of ice is to be seen between Point Spencer
and King Island, whilst the comparatively still water North of St. Lawrence
Island is hampered with large floes until late in July. This can be satis-
factorily accounted for by the existence of a northerly current of warmer
water, partly driving and partly thawing the ice from the American shores.
There is scarcely a particle of driftwood to be had on the Asiatic coast
from Kamchatka to East Cape, whilst abundance is to be found in Port
Clarence and Kotzebue Sound, as well as along the whole of the American
shore from Norton Bay to Point Barrow. Although it has been found that
pine trees sixty inches in girth grow here, on the banks of American rivers,
within the 67th parallel of latitude, yet from the frequently larger size
of the trunks and their great abundance, it is evident these northern
950
CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
regions, including Norton Bay, cannot supply the quantity; and more
southern rivers, whether Asiatic or American, or both, must be looked to for
the immense multitude of water-worn stems and roots strewed almost every-
where along the beach. Their southern origin would also seem to be indi-
cated by the presence in many of them of the remains of the teredo navalis,
which could hardly retain life throughout the rigour of eight or nine months'
frost every year. Capt. Wellesley mentions having picked up on the North
side of the entrance to Port Clarence, a buoy which had been previously lost
from the anchor of the Daedalus off the Island of St. Lawrence.
N.W. COAST OF AMERICA.
The great extra tropical drift has been traced in its eastern progress,
from the imperfect data at our command, in the previous page. Along
the coast of Alaska we have but few observations to guide us to a con-
clusion. But by analogy it may be certainly inferred that a southern set
is more or less constant, and, like the currents on the coast of Europe, the
warmer waters are driven on to this coast, and so cause all the peculiarities
of water and land climates alluded to on page 447. The sea abounds with
animal life to an enormous extent. It is the greatest fishery in the world,
while the S.W. winds blowing on to the coast over the water warmer than
is due to the latitude of the coasts, deposits on the land the accumulated
evaporation, and causes the climate of Alaska to be among the wettest in
the world.
COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
The drift we have been tracing, in a reverse direction to the geographical
arrangement of this work, assumes a more decided character along the coast
of California, and is here much colder than the corresponding latitude, so
that the harbours, such as San Francisco, are frequently enveloped in fogs.
It follows the general trend of the coast, and may be 300 miles broad in the
more marked portions of its course, but this is very indefinite. Under the
shelter of its projecting headlands, and frequently close in-shore, there are
counter currents, and reversed tides, by which small vessels can advantage-
ously work their way against its general influence.
On approaching the southern parts of California, and in the latitudes of
the peninsula it assumes a more westerly course, and is gradually merged in
the great equatorial drift first described.
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
The currents on this debateable ground are very difficult of definition.
The navigation of sailing vessels is frequently very difficult and tedious,
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
951
owing to the embarrassment of calmns and varying drifts, but there is no
doubt they fluctuate with the shifting monsoons which prevail here. Cape
Corrientes in lat. 20° 25', that is fairly within the tropic, and which is sub-
ject to the varying streams which give it the name, is probably the northern
limit of these shifting streams, and between that and Cocos Island, around
which the streams are very devious, it may be considered that the general
set will be to the southward in the winter months, and northward the rest
of the year, but, as before stated, nothing very definite can be laid down.
The central portion of the North Pacific appears to be devoid of any
currents dependent on any primary cause; and around this space the cur-
rents circulate in the order which has been described.
In the Physikalischer Atlas, by Professor Berghaus, a space in the eastern
part of this area in the North Pacific is called Fleurieu's Whirlpool, as it is
translated in the British edition of that work. This vortex is assumed from
the reasoning by Fleurieu on the voyage of La Solide by Etienne Marchand.
But independent of the not very satisfactory conclusions arrived at by the
geographer, in the appendix to the second volume of that work, it may very
fairly be questioned whether the reckoning of the vessel is entitled to such
dependence as to found any characteristic of the currents as is attempted in
the chart alluded to. It was stated in the outset that the estimation of
currents was no easy problem, and that many causes concurred in the error
of a ship's reckoning which have been unjustly attributed to the effects of
currents. This argument will probably apply with some weight to the
voyage in question.
There can be no doubt but this so-called vortex is but the eastern extremity
of that central area of quiescent waters around which the eastern and western
drifts of the Pacific basin circulate. There is one most remarkable evidence
of this in the growth and abundance of animal life, aërial and marine, which
everywhere is found. Sea-fowl of many species hover constantly over it;
the waters are alive in some parts with mollusca and the fish which feed on
them, and for many years it was one of the favourite whaling grounds of
the Pacific fleet, their prey being attracted here by the abundance of food.
In this respect it is precisely a repetition of the woll-known Sargasso Sea in
the Atlantic.
We have thus briefly and imperfectly drawn attention to the moro marked
features of the movements of the Pacific waters. They are, as has been
said before, difficult to define, and so are of less nautical importance.
The notes by Commander Trollope, R.N., given in the Appendix to the
Voyage of H.M.S. Herald, will be of great interest, as showing the uncertain
nature of the currents in the S.E. part of the North Pacific.
(952).
4.-MAGNETIC VARIATION.
This important branch of seamanship is best elucidated in the one chief
feature of the variation of the compass, by the illustrative diagram. To
follow all the details of change in direction and intensity in the magnetic.
elements encountered in a long voyage would lead into a far larger discussion
than would be compatible with the scope of this work.
But a due consideration of these essential features of magnetism is of the
utmost importance to the safe conduct of a ship, as is well known, and the
reader is referred to Mr. Towson's "Practical Information," or the "Ad-
miralty Manual," for the necessary instructions in the management of his
compass, whether uncorrected for local deviation or not, in the varied mag-
netic changes through which he will pass in the long voyage to the field of
our present work.
The isogonic lines, or those upon which the variation is of the same amount,
are given on the illustrative diagram, and are generally as accurate as the
ordinary ship's compass will show it when at sea; at all events sufficiently
exact for the purposes of navigation, and they will moreover serve to draw
attention to any unsuspected change in the magnetism of the ship, should
such change occur, and besides afford the sailor some information when
observations cannot be had.
On this diagram is inserted the amount of annual change, or the secular
variation, at present going on in different parts. The chart being adapted
to the epoch of 1870, by multiplying the time elapsed between this date
and any future year by the quantity of increase or decrease given, will give
the present amount of variation for that time.
The arrangement of these isogonic lines are much more simple in the
Pacific than over other oceans more subject to terrestrial interferences, and
over the whole of the eastern portion they have a general East and West
direction. On the western side, or the monsoon region, as it may be called,
they run northwardly and southwardly. These features will receive due
consideration from the mariner, but neither in its amount nor in its secular
variation is there room for much remark.

110
120
Nat!
130
140
150
Tang
of DIP
+275
+1-73
50
60
THE
NORTH PACIFIC
OCEAN
Shewing the
LINES OF EQUAL
MAGNETIC VARIATION
AND DIP
1871.
Okhotsk
Amur
160
170
C. Navarin
Anadir
Sea
Karaginski I.
Behring Str..
St Lawrence h
St Matthew
BEHRING
C. Kamchatka
Bhering I.
Tausk B.
OKHOTSK
C.Elizabeth
SE A
Saghalin
Island
Ghijinsk B
KAMCHATKA
Petropaulovski
C.Lopatka
G. of Tartary
C. Patience
Kurile
I
La Perouse Str.
Islands
-5°W.
Yeso
Attu I
B
C.Romanzo
Norton Sa
Bristol B.
A
Aliaska Pen
525252
150
K
140
sa
Pr. William Sa
Dip 80
Kodiak Ids
Admiralty B.
30° E.
Gross
Id
Sitka
Prof Wales Ido
Tschegula de
ALEUTIAN
Tanaga Pass
Atcha
Amukhta Pass
Ounimale Pass
Fox Ids
ARCHIPELAGO
Dip 70°
15°VE.
JAPAN
1/East
57.
10°/E.
edo
+1-19
40
30
+084
+0.57
+0-36
20
Pekin
G.of Pe-chili
Shantin
Nankin
YE.......
Shanghae
CHIN A
Amoy of
Canton
Formosa Chi
Hong Kong
CHIN A
+
*.Paracels
SEA
SEA
Chusan
Korea
4° W.
Hakodadi Tsugar Strait
JAPAN SEA
Ο
Nagasakis
Kiusiu
D
Loo Choo 334
Sickok
I P
ISLANDS
Fatsizio
Bonin Ids
W.
Borodino I.
:Margaret Ids
+
♡♡
Volcano ds
"Grampus Ids
Formosa
Los Jardines
Bashee Ids
+
D
Lindsay
Luzon
Mariana
*018
10
-0-18
0
t Wake I.
Morell I.
Byer Id
PHILIPPINE.
No /Variation
ISLANDS
+Palawan
Sulu
Sea
Mindanao
Mackenzie Ids
Pelew Ids
Guam
Johnston
or
IS
S.Bartolomeo
Ladrone Ids
2. Smyth Id$10 E.
Bigar
CAROLINE
10.
ISLANDS
Marshall
Islands
Semavin Ide
. Barber I.
Sarawak
BORNEO
Celebes
Sea
Galolo
Carteret R
Mysory a
036
Java Sea
Die
Java
Dip 30
"0-57
10
по
4
Atlantic I.
Admiralty Ids
+ $
+
+ +
+
New Ireland
New
Britain
Le Maire Ids
Salomon
Ids
Ceram 1
Flores Sea
Sumbawa
Timor
120
D
PAPUA OR NEW GUINEA
Arru
Arafura
130
Sea
140
+
150
3
160
Ocean 1.
4 Motuiti
170
Pitt I.
Gilbert Tas
Is
B
Byron I.
Phoenix
Islands
Ellice
Dip 20°
Ids
180
170
Frigate
Dip 60°
Dip 50°
130
Houghton
40°E.
36E
120
110
100
90
80
Chesterfield Inlet
Southampton
Id
Slave L.
30° E.
Observatory Inlet
Q. Charlotte Id
25 E
Q. Charlotte sa
Royal Ids
BRIT COLUMBIA
# 25° E..
20°E.
Nootka
Vancouver Id
Juan de Fuca St.
Astoria
C.Blanco
C. Mendocino
Fraser
ictoria
sd
Pages
Columbia R.
WASHINGTON
OREGON
&
Farallones
San Francisco
15 E.
P. Concepcion
20° E.
HUD S
Mosquito
Bay
Churchill F
B
Port Nelson
T
H
M
E
R
CALIFORNIA
Luis
Sta Rosa
D
P. San Diego
Guadalupel.
M
E
15 E
Severn Fort
C. Henrietta Maria
Richmond B
CJones
60
ON
Albany F
Moose F
Varration
25W
F. MOW
50
C AN A DA
L. Superior
L.Michigan
bigam Huron
Alic
Montreal
L.Ontario
New York
Washington
STATES
40
UNITED
TEXAS
New Orleans
Galveston B
Matamoras
Mobile
Savannah
Charleston
30
GCanaveral
FLORIDA
GULF
Tampa B.
OF
MEXICO.
Reefs
Havana
Bahama
jds
Cerros 1.
10°E.
Kauai
Honolulu
Sandwich Ids.
Tropic of Cancer
Dip 40°
Hawaii
California
C. San Lucas
Tres Marias Dor
Revilla Gigedo ds.
Dip 30°
7°E.
Colima
Dyp 20
Diana Sh.
Palmyra
New York L...
Dip 10°
Walker Ids
+
Christmas I.
160
Starbuck I
Dip 10°
0
• Penrhyn
150
R. H. LAURIE, 53, FLEET STREET, LONDON.
Equator
Clipperton I.
Mexico
Acapulco
8 E
Gulf of Merida
Campeche
G. of Tehuantepec
Belize
of Honduras
Guatemala
Salvador
Fonseca B.
Leon
L. of Nicaragua
G. of Nicoya
Cocos a
E.
G.of Dulce
0
Jamaica
20
CARIBBEAN
C Gracias a Dios
SEA
G.of Darien
Aspinwall
5
Panama B.
10
C.Corrientes
Buenaventura
O
Galápagos
Ids
10°
5 E
43
Marquesas Ids
140
130
120
110
100
90
E
• Quito
Guayaquil
Payta
11°E.
Truxillo
10
80
5
Ky
UNI
(953)
5.-PASSAGES.
From what has been said of the meteorology of the North Pacific it will
be manifest that its navigation is simple and easy in every part, with the
important exceptions of those places lying in the belt of calms, &c., espe-
cially the Bay of Panama. A voyage across the Pacific is carried on without
difficulty, going eastward in the extra-tropical portion influenced by the
anti-trade wind, and to the westward within the area of the N.E. trade-
wind. This applies to the eastern portion of the ocean, and whatever
variations from a direct course on the western side may be necessary, are
due to the shifting monsoons of the China and other Asiatic coasts. These
monsoons and their influences on navigation are described in our directory
for the Indian Ocean, 1870, pp. 29 to 76, and in that for the Indian Archi-
pelago, &c., pp. 1 to 32; and, as the countries most affected by them are
described in those works, although they form the western boundary of the
.Pacific, the reader is referred to them for the necessary information.
One subject relating to over-sea navigation in such extensive oceans as
the Pacific, great circle sailing, is very important, as it is under these circum-
stances that the greatest saving of distance is effected, by the choice of such
routes or those approximating to the shortest distance in angular measure-
ment. It will not be necessary further to allude to the subject here, as it
has been dilated on in our volume on the South Pacific and in other works
specially devoted to mathematical geography. Some of the great circle
tracks are shown on the adjoining diagram, and these must suffice.
The following notes on the general tracks across the North Pacific are
derived from various sources as quoted, and commence with those from the
Atlantic around Cape Horn.
CAPE HORN TO CALIFORNIA AND BRITISH COLUMBIA.
As in the Atlantic Ocean, the route from South to North, or vice versâ, in
the Pacific, by crossing the different belts of winds and calms, requires much
consideration as to the best points for crossing the various parallels of lati-
tude and the equator. The entering or leaving one zone at the most advan-
tageous point has a very great influence on the speed and safety of the ship
through the rest. Therefore this meridional voyage must be considered with
reference to the countries beyond the scope of this work. What has been
previously said on the winds and currents will be necessary to understand
the requirements of this section.
To Captain Maury, and also to the Dutch Meteorological Institute, under
Captains Jansen and Van Gough, we owe very much for their lucid discus-
sions and long series of examples from which a correct decision may be arrived
954
PASSAGES.
at.
We therefore quote the words of the former, but omit the tables upon
which the conclusions are based. They are very interesting, but to insert
them would unduly enlarge this work.
The California bound vessels should aim to enter the S.E. trade-wind
region of the Pacific as far to the West, provided they keep on the eastern
side say of 118° W., as they well can; they should not fight with head
winds to make westing, nor should they turn much from the direct course
when the winds are fair. But when winds are dead ahead, stand off to the
westward, especially if you be South of the trade-wind region. Having
crossed the parallel of 35° S., and taken the trades, the navigator, with the
wind quartering and all sails drawing, should now make the best of his way
to the equator, aiming to cross it between 105° and 120°, according to the
season of the year, and the directions hereinafter given.
I wish here to call the attention of navigators to the winds they are to ex-
pect between the parallel of 50° S., in the Pacific and the equator especially,
as it regards their reliability.
The distance from the fairway of St. Roque (lat. 7° S.) to the parallel of
50° S., in the Atlantic, is about 2,900 miles, the average time 30 days, and
the mean daily run is about 100 miles.
The distance from 50° S. in the Pacific to the usual crossing place on the
line-California track-is about 3,300 miles, the average time 27.7 days,
and the mean daily run 132 miles.
The winds between 50° S. and the equator are much more strong, steady,
and reliable, as the barometer would lead us to expect, on the Pacific, than
they are on the Atlantic side of the continent; the ratio between them in
these respects is greater than 2,900 to 3,300, for it is easier to make 3,300
miles with them in the one ocean than it is 2,900 in the other.
An examination of the mean monthly passages from crossing to crossing
will also show a greater regularity, implying thereby more stable winds.
The greatest monthly average on the East side is 31.1 days in August; on
the West 27.9 in May, extreme difference, 3.2 days; the greatest monthly
average on the West side being 27.9 days; the least 22.2 days; the extreme
difference is 5.7 days.
Between the equator and 10° or 12° N., according to the season of the year,
the California bound navigator may expect to lose the S.E., and to get the
N.E. trade-winds.
He will find these last nearer the equator in January, February, and
March; but in July, August, and September, he will sometimes find himself
to the N. of the parallel of 15° N. before he gets fairly into the N.E. trades.
And sometimes, especially in summer and fall, he will not get them at all,
unless he keeps well out to the West. Having them, he should steer a good
rap full at least, aiming, of course, to cross the parallel of 20° N., in about
125° W., or rather not to the East of that, particularly from June to No-

0
110
120
130
140
60
THE
NORTH PACIFIC
OCEAN
TRACK
CHART
In Winter, Oct. to Mar. thus
In Summer, Apr. to Sept. thus.
Great Circles thus...
150
40
Pekin
S
G.of Pe-chili
Shantung
Kor
I
YELLOW,
SEA
Shanghae
Nagasaki
Kiusiu
Chusion
30
Nankin
CHIN A
Amoy
Canton
Formosa Ch
Loo-Choo
♡♡
Formosa
R. Amur
150.
160
Karaginski I.
170
C. Navarin
C. Kamchatka
Bhering I
Okbotsk
Tausk B./
OKHOTSK
of Tartary
C.Elizabeth
SEA
Saghalin
Island
C.Patience
Ghijinsk B.
KAMCHATKA
Petropaulovski
C. Lopatka
Kurile
A
La Perouse Str.
Islands
Yeso
Hakodadi Pugar Strait
JAPAN SEA
Sitkok
P
JAPAN
Yedo
ISLANDS
Fatsizio
Anadir
Sea
Behring Str.
St Lawrence
C.Romanzof
St Matthew
BEHRING SEA
& Attu I.
150
Norton Sd
ALA S K
A
B
Tschegulad
ALEUTIAN
Tanaga Pass
& Atcha I.
2. Atch
Amukhta Pass
68
ARCHIPELAGO
20
Bristol B.
so. Ounimal Pass
Fox Ids
70.
Aliaska Pen
52822
Great Circle from China &c Eastward.
Bonin Ids
Gr. Circle Honolulu to Formosa Chan.
Morell I
Byer Id
: Borodino I.
Volcano Ids:
Margaret Ids
"Grampus Ide
đồng Borig
Bashee Ids
20
Lindsay I.
BO
+
CHINA
Luzon
+
Paracels
+
PHILIPPINE
S/E A
10
+Palawan
Los Jardines
+
+
Mariana
or
+
*Wake I.
S.Bartolomeo
Ladrone Ids
→→Smyth Ids
Guam
Bigar
ISLANDS
Mackenzie Ide
Sulu
Sea
CAROLINE
ISLANDS
Marshall.
Islands
Mindanao
Pelew Ids
Seniavin Ide
Sarawak
BORNEO
Celebes
Sea
Java Sea
Carteret R
Gilolo
Mysory Id
Admiralty Tas
New Ireland
Ceram 1.
Arru
Tas
80
10
ay
Sumbawa
110
Flores Sea
Arafura Sea
Timor
120
130
B
Atlantic I..
Ocean 1.
Le Maire Tas
Salomon
Ids
PAPUA OR NEW GUINEA
Britain
New
150
160
140
Pitt I.
Gilbert Ids
Barber 1
Byron I.
Great Circle Fuca Str. to Sydney.
Johnston
IF
Fr Frigate
Sydney.
A Pr. William Sa
Kodiak Ids
Admiralty B.
Gr. Circle Halcodadi to S. Francisco.
140
130
120
Cross
sa
P.Houghton
Slave L.
100
Chesterfield Iniet
Sitka Id
Pr. of Wales Id
Observatory Inlet
Q. Charlotte Id
N
0
R T
Royal Ids
H
BRIT" COLUMBIA
Q. Charlotte Sa
Kaudi
Honolulu
Sandwich Ids
Tropic of Cancer
Hawan
Diana Sh.
Palmyra
New York I.
Christmas I.
Walker Ids
t Circle. Francisco to:
Great
Ellice
Ids
+
Phoenix
Islands
4 Motuiti
170
180
170
160
• Penrhyn
Starbuck I.
150
To Australia.
R. H. LAURIE, 53, FLEET STREET, LONDON.
Sylinex &c.
To
From Cape Horn.
Equator
Nootka
Vancouver
Id
Juan de Fuca St.
Astoria
Fraser
Victoria
Pugets sa
Columbia R.
WASHINGTON
OREGON
C.Blanco
C. Mendocino
Farallones
San Francisco
90
80
Southampton
Id
HUDSON
Churchill Ft
BAY
Port Nelson
Mosquito
Bay
H
Severn Fort
C. Henrietta Maria
Albany F
Moose F
Richmond B
E.Jones
F Main
50
CANADA
L.Superior
Montreal
L.Michigan Huron
Ontario
A
M
E
R I
C
New York
40
CALIFORNIA
P. Concepcion
Sta Rosa
SLuis
D
P. San Diego
Guadalupe 1.
Cerros 1.4
Washington
STATES
UNITED
TEXAS
New Orleans
Galveston B
Mobile
Savannah
FLOR
Charleston
C.Canaveral
30
M
E
X I
of California
C. San Lucas
Revilla Gigedo Ids
P965
Great firde between 30°N. and Cape Horn.
Western Route from Cape
Horn.
Tres Marias
3
Colima
Clipperton I.
Matamoras
Mexico
Acapulco
Inner Route from
GULF
Tampa B.
OF
Reefs
MEXICO
Gulf of Merida
Campeche
G. of Tehuantepec
Boyn
1966
July Aug
Jan.
Galapagos
Ids
Mar.
Belize
Havana
of Honduras
Guatemala
Salvador
Fonseca B.
Leon
L. of Nicaragua
G. of Nicoya
Cocos a
G.of Dulce
1966
Jamaica
34
Bahama
Ide
20
CARIBBEAN
C Gracias a Dios
SEA
G.of Darien
Aspinwall
Panama B
C. Corrientes
10
Buenaventurd
Quito
Guayaqual
Payta
Marquesas Ids
140
130
120
110
100
90
80
Truxillo
10
60
*
CAPE HORN TO CALIFORNIA, ETC.
955
vember. His course, after crossing 20° N., is necessarily to the northward
and westward, until he loses the N.E. trades. He should aim to reach the
latitude of his port without going to the W. of 130° W., if he can help it,
or without approaching nearer than 250 or 300 miles to the land, until he
passes out of the belt of the N.E. trades, and gets into the variables, the
prevailing direction of which is westerly.
“Where shall we take the S.E. and lose the N. E. trades on the passage
to California?" is an important question for a navigator to have answered,
who is striving for a short passage on the West coast of South America.
From the parallel of Cape Horn up to the belt of light winds and calms,
through which you generally pass before getting into the S.E. trades, the
prevailing winds are westerly winds, having northing more frequently than
southing in them.
Between the N.W. coast and the meridian of 130° W., from 30° to 40° N.,
the prevailing direction of the wind in summer and fall is from the north-
ward and westward, whereas, to the West of 130°, and between the same
parallels, the N.E. trades are the prevailing winds of these two seasons.
There is a marked difference in the direction of the winds on the opposite
sides of the meridian of 130° W. in the North Pacific. The cause of this
difference has been completely unmasked by the researches connected with
these charts. The agent which produces it has its seat in the arid plains of
New Mexico, Northern Texas, and the regions round about. At this season
of the year the prevailing winds in the western part of the Gulf of Mexico
are from the southward and eastward; that is, towards the great centre of
rarefaction. At this season of the year, too, the prevailing winds in the
Pacific, off the coasts of Central America, are from the southward, and also
towards the same centre of heated plains and ascending columns of air; and
we have seen that off the coasts of California, between the parallels of 35°
and 40° N., the prevailing winds of this season are from the northward and
westward; also towards this great inland "blow hole." In it is seated a
monsoon agent, whose influence is felt for more than a thousand miles out
to sea, drawing back the N.E. trades of the Pacific, and converting them
into a southwardly monsoon for half a year; deflecting the N.E. trades
of the Gulf of Mexico, and converting them into a south-easterly monsoon
during the same season, and so influencing the prevailing S.W. winds off
our N.W. Pacific coast that they, too, are almost made to blow a north-
westerly monsoon.
Therefore vessels bound to San Francisco should not unless forced by
adverse winds, go any further beyond the meridian of 138° W. than they
can help. Supposing that vessels generally will be able to reach 30° N.
without crossing the meridian of 130° W., the distance per great circle
from Cape Horn to its point of intersection with that parallel is about
6,000 miles.
956
PASSAGES.
And supposing, moreover, that California bound vessels will generally,
after doubling Cape Horn, be able to cross the parallel of 50° S., between
the meridians of 80° and 100° W., their shortest distance in miles thence to
30° N., at its intersection with the meridian of 130° W. would be to cross
40° S. in about 100° W.; 30° S. in about 104°; 20° S. in about 109°; the
equator in about 117° W.; and 30° N. in about 130° W. (126° if you can).
By crossing the line 10° further to the East, or 10° further to the West of
117°, the great circle distance from Cape Horn to the intersection of 30° N.
with 130° W., will be increased only about 150 miles.
Navigators appear to think that the turning point on a California voyage
is the place of crossing the equator in the Pacific. But the crossing which
may give the shortest run thence to California may not be the crossing which
it is most easy to make from the United States or Europe; and it is my wish
to give in these sailing directions the routes which, on the average, will
afford the shortest passage to vessels that have doubled Cape Horn; and
then, by comparing the two, we may be able to lay down the best route from
Cape Horn to California.
There are 87 crossings between 115° and 120° W., which have been
analysed. They give the shortest average time to San Francisco; their
average, however, is only 16 hours (0·6 day) less than the average from the
crossing between 110° and 115°, and the average to the latter crossing from
50° S. is 8 hours (0-3 day) shorter than the average to the former crossing.
Hence we conclude from a total of 441 passages from the line, of 448 to the
line, that the average passage from 50° S. to San Francisco is 53-5 days viâ
the crossing between 115° and 120° W., and 53.8 days viâ the crossing
between 110° and 115°. Thus, in the long run, the crossing between 115°
and 120° gives the best average, but is not so much frequented as that be-
tween 110° and 115°, the numbers being respectively 103 and 220.
A long series of tables derived from the voyages quoted is given by Capt.
Maury in elucidation of the subject, which are very interesting. We give
some of his concluding remarks on the discussion of these tables.
The shortest monthly means are 104 and 116 days, and these are for the
vessels that crossed the equator in the Pacific during the months of January
and December. And to this crossing they had an average run of 96 and 98
days, Vessels that sail from the United States to California in all of Sep-
tember and October are the vessels which, upon an average, should have the
fairest winds and make the best passages.
It is of some consequence, in deciding as to the best crossing place on the
equator, that the navigator should have an idea as to the parallels near
which he may expect to lose the S.E. trades; for the equatorial limits of
these winds change with the season.
In March you will occasionally carry them several degrees over into the
northern hemisphere. But in this month they are generally near the verge
CAPE HORN TO CALIFORNIA, ETC.
957
of their extreme declination towards the South. When you lose them and
get the N.E. trades, keep away with a good rap full, never aiming to cross
the parallel of 20° North to the East of long. 125° West. Unless the winds
force you off, aim to be in shore of the meridian of 130° W. when you lose
the N.E. trades.
When you do lose them, if then you have to fight the calms and baffling
winds of the horse latitudes, make the best of your way on a due North
course, till you cross this belt of calms, or catch a good wind, or get into the
variables beyond. I shall have more to say upon this subject at some other
time.
In April you will carry these trades a little further North, and so on
further and further until October, when the northern edge of them becomes
stationary and commences to return South. It reaches its furthest parallel
of southern declination in March or April.
It appears from the summing up that the average passage to California for
all classes of ships that used the charts and crossed the equator between
105° and 120° is, the year round, 130 days. When these investigations com-
menced, the average passage the year round of all classes of ships, from the
Atlantic ports of the United States to California was 180 days.
Indeed, it may now be considered as reduced to 128 days, for that is the
average of the 87 vessels that crossed between the meridians of 115° and 120°
West, which these investigations have shown to be the best crossing place.
Indeed, the average of the 220 vessels that have crossed between 110° and
115° W., taken with the 87 that have crossed between 115° and 120°, makes
the average rather less than 129 days.
The average passage of upwards of 300 vessels that have crossed between
110° and 120° is 128.9 days. There is no reason why all vessels should not
cross the equator between these two meridians, and hence we may consider
it as an established fact, that the average length of the sailing voyage from
Europe or the Atlantic ports of the United States is less than 130 days.
The vessels that sail in the spring have, in the aggregate, an average
passage ten days longer than those which sail at other seasons, the spring
average being 137 against 127 days for the rest of the year.
The average crossing place of 50° S. on the Pacific is about 82° West.
Winds are sometimes, though not often, fair for making westing on the
polar side of 50° S. When they are so, the skilful navigator will not fail to
take advantage of them to gain a still more westerly crossing of this
parallel.
In urging upon California bound vessels the importance of making westing
about the parallel of 50° S., I do not mean that they should expose them-
selves to heavy weather, or contend against adverse circumstances. I simply
mean that if a vessel, after doubling the Cape, can steer a W.N.W. course
as well as a N.W.; or a N.W. as well as a N.N.W., or a N.N.W. as well as
958
PASSAGES.
a N. course, that she should on all such occasions give preference to the
course that has most westing in it, provided that she does not cross 50° S.
to the W. of 100° or thereabouts, nor 30° S. to the westward of 115°, nor
enter the S.E. trade-wind region to the West of the last-named meridian.
This is the western route. It is so called because it requires you to keep as
far West, within certain limits, as you well may without running broad off to
make westing, or without fighting with head winds, or baffling winds, or
calms to get West.
The western route from Cape Horn to California is, as a route, to be pre-
ferred by all vessels at all seasons.
The further from the land, the more regular and steady the wind, may be
safely taken as a general rule.
Captain Sherard Osborn, R.N., says :-Supposing a vessel bound to the
western coast of Mexico, and running before the southerly gale, which
almost constantly blows along the shores of South America, she ought to
shape a course so as to cross the equator in about 98° or 99° West longitude
so that, when she gets the N.E. trade, she will be at least 6° or 7° to the
eastward of her port-San Blas or Mazatlan, and have, at the same time, a
sufficient offing from the Galapagos Islands to avoid their currents and va-
riable winds.
We crossed in long. 105° W., having been recommended to do so by some
old merchants at Valparaiso, and were consequently, although a remarkably
fast-sailing ship, a lamentably long time in making the distance. Several
days' log of the ship shows as follows:-March 24th, 1848, San Blas, 672
miles distant; 25th, 646 miles distant; 26th, 657 miles distant. Our track
led us to be exactly in the same longitude as our port; when we got the
trade, and it hanging well to the northward, we were constantly increasing
our distance until in the latitude of San Blas, when an in-shore tack of
course shortened it. But by the course I have recommended, the first of the
N.E. trades will drive the vessel into the meridian of her port, and she will
thus daily decrease her distance.
Care must be taken when standing in for the land not to go to leeward of
San Blas, as there is a strong southerly current along the coast, especially
off Cape Corrientes.
A vessel making the passages northward from San Blas had better make
an inshore tack, until she reaches the latitude of, or sights Cape San Lucas,
as she will there get the true wind, which blows almost without intermission
along the line of coast from the northward. A West, or may be South of
West course, will only be first made good, but as the offing is obtained, the
wind will be found to veer a little to the eastward. However, it will always
be the object to make headway, and get out of the tropic without any re-
ference to the longitude, as a strong N.W. wind will soon, in lat. 25° or 28°,
run off the distance, provided you have sufficient northing.
BETWEEN CALIFORNIA AND AUSTRALIA.
959
The attempt to beat up in-shore amounts to perfect folly, if it does not
deserve a worse name, a strong current accompanying the wind; and the
latter must be taken into consideration, when running in for your port with
westerly winds.
Should a vessel be bound to California direct, I would cross the equator
in the Pacific Ocean in about long. 100° W.; cross the N.E. trade with a
topmast studding-sail set, and thus pass into the limit of the westerly winds,
about 300 miles to windward of the Sandwich Islands; and once on them,
take good care to keep to the northward of my port, for, as you approach
the shore, the wind will draw round North, and the current to the southward
increase.
These remarks, and the illustrative map of the passages will serve to
elucidate these routes.
BETWEEN CALIFORNIA AND AUSTRALIA, ETC.
Captain Maury says:-The great circle distance from South Australia to
California is about 7,000 miles, and vessels in the direct trade between
Australia and the Pacific coasts may have the choice of routes going as well
as coming; going, the distance to be sailed, on account of detour for the
sake of winds, is about 7,500 miles; returning, that is, coming this way by
the eastern route, the distance is eight or nine hundred miles greater. With
the exception of the N.E. trades on the passage from New South Wales or
Victoria to California, the winds are fair, or may conveniently be made fair
both ways.
A good N.E. course can be made through the S.E. trades, and
a N.N.W. course, on the average, through the N.E. trades. But these
courses will not give easting enough for the California bound trader, and it
therefore becomes a question for him to decide whether he will make up his
easting in the variables South of S.E. trades, or in the variables North of
the N.E. trades, for in both of those systems of variables westerly winds
prevail.
If you pass through Cook's Straits, then stick her close to the eastward,
and take the eastern passage. On this passage you should run down your
easting pretty well before you get far enough to be bothered by the baffling
winds of the horse latitudes South. If these come as low down as 30° or 40°
S., stand N. the moment you feel them till you get the S.E. trades; then
cross these and the N.E. trades, both as obliquely to the eastward as they
will permit, with fore-topmast studding sail set.
On this passage you will have finally to run down your easting when you
get into the variables beyond the N.E. trade, and of course you will aim to
reach the parallel of 38° or 40° N., or even a higher one North, to do this.
How far you will go North depends somewhat on the distance, you may be
West of California when you lose the N.E. trades. If you be only a degree
960
PASSAGES.
or two from the land, you will steer straight to your port without caring to
get to the northward of it; but if you be ten or twenty degrees to the West
of it, or even further, then of course the distance to be run makes it an
object to turn out of your way and go North in search of good winds.
Therefore, the choice of routes on this voyage resolves itself into the
answer to this question: Is it best to making easting between the parallels
of 40° or 50° S., or about the parallel of 40° N.? If the former, then the
eastern route is the route; if the latter, then the preference should be given
to the western route.
I give preference to the eastern route, especially and decidedly when the
winds at starting are favourable for the East course. I have no doubt but
that, as a general rule, the winds by the eastern route, both variables and
S.E. trades are much more steady and reliable than they are by the western
route. Moreover, the distance from the Victoria Ports, viâ South side of
Van Diemen's Land and New Zealand, is not more than three or four
hundred miles greater than it is by the most direct route that is practicable,
and the chances of good winds by the eastern route will, in my opinion,
amply make up for this increased distance.
It is proper for me to state here that I do not give these Australian
sailing directions as directions that are founded on or derived from investi-
gations into the routes actually pursued by vessels from Australia to Califor-
nia; but I give them as deductions drawn from the knowledge which I have
acquired touching the general system of the winds and currents out upon
the high seas.
The most difficult and uncertain parts of this passage will be in the time
required to cross the three belts of calms, and to clear the winter fogs of
California. But for these the eastern passage from Victoria to California
would be one of the most certain passages in the world.
The distance from Victoria to California cannot be accomplished under
canvas, by the eastern route, much short of 8,700 miles. But driving cap-
tains, with clipper ships under them, may expect to average, one trip with
another, along this route, not far from 200 miles per day. The clipper rate
from Victoria to Cape Horn will probably be upwards of 200 miles a day;
for I feel assured that there is no part of the ocean in which the winds
generally will admit of more heavy dragging and constant driving than they
will in the extra-tropical regions generally of the South Pacific, say on the
polar side of 43° S.
Returning from California to Australia, the route out of San Francisco should
be down as soon as possible into the N.E. trades, as though you were bound
to China, India, or the Sandwich Islands, crossing the equator anywhere
between the meridians of 140° and 150° W., according as you prefer to run
down your westing principally in the N.E. or S.E. trades. I give the pre-
ference to the latter generally, because they are more steady, reliable, and
PASSAGES.
961
certain, than are their congeners of the northern hemisphere-at least, such
is the rule. The distance by this route to Bass Straits will be about 7,500
miles; and an increase upon this of the average distance to be sailed on the
passage going, together with the distance returning, will not amount, as
before stated, to more than six or eight hundred miles.
Aim to cross 30° S., on the passage from California to Australia, in the
neighbourhood of 170° E.
Thence the course is between Australia and New Zealand, direct for your
port.
The passage between Australia and California should be made ordinarily
in from 45 to 50 days; the passage to the East being rather the shorter, of
course clipper ships will occasionally make the passage in 37 days.
PANAMA TO CALIFORNIA.
Captain Maury, to whom we are still indebted, referring to the data he
had collected, says:—
After carefully studying this description of the wind, derived, it is true,
from no great abundance of materials, I have to suggest the following
routes for the consideration of navigators bound N.W. from Panama.
From the Bay of Panama make the best of your way South until you get
between 5° N. and the equator.
Being between these two parallels, it will be for the navigator to decide
whether he will shape his course West, and keep between them until he
crosses the meridian of 25° West, or whether he will cross the equator, and
make his westing in South latitude, with the S.E. trades on his quarter.
The winds that he finds between 5° and the line should decide this question
for him. If he can get West here with a good breeze he should crack on,
and when his good wind leaves him, steer South again.
If the passage from Panama be attempted in January, February, March,
April, May, or June, time will probably be saved by going South of the
equator; for, at this half of the year, the N.E. trades and the equatorial
doldrums are often found between the equator and 5° N. Between the me-
ridians of 80° and 85° West, in this part of the ocean, these winds and calms
are found even in the months of July and August. Therefore, in coming
out of Panama, and after crossing 5° N., in any season, make a S.W. course
if the winds will allow. If the wind be S.W., brace up on the starboard
tack; but if it be S.S.W., stand West, if it be a good working breeze. But
if it be light and baffling, with rain, know that you are in the doldrums,
and the quickest way to clear them is by making all you can on a due South
course.
Suppose that after crossing 5° N. you have got to the West of 85° without
North Pacific.
3 Q
962
PASSAGES.
having crossed the equator. Now, if the time of the year be in that half
which embraces July and December, the prevailing winds will be between
S.E. and South, inclusive, and the course is West as long as there is a breeze.
As soon as the breeze dies away, and you begin to fight the baffling airs, con-
clude that you are in the vicinity of the doldrums that are often found here
either between the N.E. and S.E. trades, or between one of these trades and
the system of southwardly monsoons that blow North of the line, and be-
tween the coast and the meridian of 95° W.
These belts of doldrums lie East and West, and the shortest way to cross
them is by a due North and South line; therefore let it be a rule, whenever
the navigator finds himself in one of these calm belts, to make all the latitude
possible, for by that means he will soonest clear it.
Having crossed the meridian of 95°, stand away to the northward and
westward with a free wind.
West of longitude 100°, and between the parallels of 5° and 10° N., the
winds, in the months of November and December, are variable between N.E.
and South, by way of East. In January, February, and March, they are
quite steady as N.E. trades. In April they are variable. The doldrums
are generally found between those parallels in this month. During the rest
of the year the winds are all the time between S.E. and S.W.
It will be well to cross the parallel of 10° N. at least as far West as the
meridians of 105° or 110° W. Here, between the parallels 5° and 10° N.,
the winds in November are steady from S.S.E. and South; December, April,
and May, are the months for the doldrums in this part of the ocean.
Having crossed the parallel of 10° N., between 105° and 110°, the navi-
gator is then in the fair way to California.
In making the West coasts of Mexico and the United States, the kelp is
said to form an excellent landmark. This weed is very long and grows on
the rocks at the bottom. When, therefore, in approaching the coast, you
come across lines or swarths of tangled kelp, its being tangled or matted is
a sign that it is adrift. It is afloat in deep water, and you may sail boldly
through it without fear. But when you come across it tailing out straight,
it is then fast to the rocks at the bottom, and it is dangerous to get
among it.
Vessels out of San Francisco intending to touch at Panama or any of the
ports South should stand out well from the Mexican coast. Information as
to the best route for these passages is wanting. But I should, with such in-
formation as I at present have with regard to this navigation, feel disposed,
were I bound from San Francisco to Panama, to steer straight for the line
somewhere about 104° W, and stand on South until I could, with the S.E.
trades, run in on the starboard tack for the land.
In addition to this may be quoted a letter to Captain Maury from Captain
Bloomfield, a gentleman of twenty-five years' experience on that coast:-
PASSAGES.
963
"Your own experience will have shown you that from December to April
are the summer months or dry season; the northerly wind prevailing more
or less during the major part of the time, it being the strongest about Janu-
ary and February, gradually taking off until about the middle of April, when
the winter months are supposed to commence, from May to August, when
rains, thunder, and lightning, with nearly daily thunder squalls intervene,
causing the winds to be as changeable during the twenty-four hours as often
as there are hours in the day.
"From August to December the weather becomes somewhat settled, and
commencing lightly with a southerly wind, in October and November, I have
seen it blow a moderate gale home to Panama anchorage, inasmuch as to
cause the merchant vessels to have two anchors down. The sea also becomes
somewhat rough, requiring more than ordinary care in landing in boats. It
is accompanied sometimes with squalls and intermissions, but, generally
speaking, with cloudy but dry weather. I have at times experienced some
very clear nights and days during this season.
"In leaving Panama it is easy to be done in either the summer, or when
the northerly winds prevail, or from August to December, when you generally
have a southerly wind, which will enable either to sail or work out of
the bay.
“The starboard or western in-shore should be kept in board by a sailing
vessel on leaving, and the eastern side inside the Pearl islands on entering,
except you are entering about the months of September, October, and No-
vember, when in all probability you would bring a strong southerly wind;
but during the prevalence of the northerly and light winds, the eastern pas-
sage is beyond doubt to be preferred.
"If bound South, in passing Point Mala within three or four miles, the
greatest object is to get to the westward in 81° or 81° 30′, in order to avoid
the strong current, rains, and light winds which prevail nearly all the sea-
sons of the year to the eastward of it, about the environs of Buena Ventura.
In passing Point Mala, either with a northerly or southerly wind, make
your westing as soon as you can; and by getting into the longitude above
named, it will enable you to reach the southerly winds sooner, either to en-
able you to make your westing up, if bound to the northward, to long. 110°
to 114° W., or to work to the southward, taking advantage of every change,
until the latitude of Plata is reached, when the shore can be approached to
take advantage of the land winds, if taking the in-shore passage, or it will
enable
you to stand to the S.W. if taking the off-shore passage.
"In working to the southward, after leaving Point Mala with a southerly
wind, do not be tempted, when on the starboard tack, to stand to the S.E.
and S.S.E. too long, as the current about 140 miles to the South of Point
Mala runs constantly to the eastward. On some occasions I have known it
3 Q2
964
PASSAGES.
set-in fact, I have been set-35 miles in 24 hours, ascertained by good
chronometer, and confirmed by making the land. Therefore it is always ad-
visable to hold on your westing, even if you should make northing in doing
so, and comparatively little difficulty will be attended in reaching the south-
erly winds, which ranges to different latitudes during the 12 months; as a
rule-
From April, to 1° North; from May, to 2° North; from June, to 3° North;
from July, to 5° North; from August, to 6° North; from September, to 7°
30 North; from October, to Panama anchorage; from November, to 7°
North; from December, to 5° North; from January, to 3° North; from
February, to 2° North; from March, to 1° North.
"Therefore, after reaching the outer verge of the southerly wind, the next
object, more particularly if bound to the westward, is to be certain that you
entered it far enough, so as to reap the whole benefit of its strength, which
you will find to be equally different in its position as the southerly wind
is reaching its northern limit; but, generally speaking, when the northerly
winds do not prevail from off Point Mala to its (southerly wind) limits, it
prevails from S. W. to N.W.
Mr. Hull, R.N., of H.M.S. Havannah, says :-
"Lieutenant Maury truly says, 'that the passage under canvas from Pa-
nama to California, as at present made, is one of the most tedious, uncertain
and vexatious that is known to navigators.'
"The best way to avoid these difficulties seems to be by making southing
on leaving Panama; do not care about making westing, but push South; at
this time of the year (July and August) you will probably meet the S.E.
trade well over the line in 4° or 5° North; then run to the westward till you
reach the meridian of 110° W.; you may then cross over to the N.E. trade;
keep well free. Ships generally make the best passages that have gone to
the westward of 114° On running in for the land, make Punta de los
Reyes.
“These remarks are written partly from Lieutenant Maury, and partly
from my own experience in these seas. In H.M.S. Herald, I made three
passages, two from Panama and one from Port Burica, which is about 200
miles to the West; the first took us 32, the second 42, and the third 28
days; to get clear of the variables in the passages we pushed to the west-
ward, keeping in about lat. 10° N. H.M.S. Brisk was 84 days from this
port to San Francisco, and in 1849 and 1850 ships were commonly 80
days.
"On the other hand, H.M. brig Swift, by going to the southward,
made
the passage to Honolulu in 47 days, and one ship only made 45 days to Ca-
lifornia by adopting this plan.
"Again, the weather in the doldrums is most harassing-heavy rain, with
PASSAGES.
965
squalls, thunder, and lightning; whereas by going South you have the fine
S.E. trades."
In a future paragraph some further remarks on the difficult navigation of
the Gulf of Panama will be given.
CALIFORNIA, ETC., TO PERU.
Most vessels on this voyage make a mistake, especially in summer and
fall, in the passage across the belt of N.E. trades. Being anxious to get
to the East, they edge along, aiming to lose these winds in 90° or 100°, as the
case may be. There they encounter the southwardly monsoons in the Pacific.
off the American coast as they are along the African coast in the Atlantic.
The vessels taking that course, and being so baffled, have now to make a
sharp elbow and run off 8° or 10°, or even more degrees to the westward be-
fore they clear this belt of calms and monsoons and get the S.E. trades. Of
course the voyage is greatly prolonged by this.
The route which, as at present advised, I would recommend, is, that na-
vigators steer the same course from California that they would if bound to
the United States, until they pass through the S.E. trades, and clear the
calms of Capricorn. Therefore I say to the Chincha-bound trader, when you
get your offing from the heads, steer South, aiming to cross the line not to
the East of 115°, for the rule is, the further East the harder it is to cross the
equatorial doldrums in the Pacific as well as it is in the Atlantic.
When you get the S.E. trades crack on with topmast studding-sail set
until you get the brave West winds on the polar side of the calms of Capri-
corn. Now turn sharp off from the route around Cape Horn, and run west
until you bring your port to bear to the northward of N.E., when you may
stick her away. Now, by this rule the Chincha-bound navigator may some-
times, before he gets these westerly winds, find himself as far South as 40°
or 45°, and as far East as 120° or 125°. Let him not fear, but stand on un-
til he gets the winds that will enable him to steer East, or until he intercepts
the route from Australia to Callao, when he may, without fear of not fetch-
ing, take that.
In the summer and fall of the northern hemisphere (June to November)
the calm belt of Capricorn will be cleared generally on the equatorial side of
the parallel of 30° South; at the other seasons you will have frequently to go
6° or 8° further.
CENTRAL AMERICA, MEXICO, ETC.
Our information as to the best means of making a passage along these
coasts is still but scanty. The following observations, therefore, by Lieut.-
Commander James Wood, of H.M.S. Pandora, become exceedingly valuable.
966
PASSAGES.
In a former page we have given the observations of the prevalent winds in
this region from the same officer.
From the Southward to Panama Bay.-From what has been said respecting
the winds which prevail within the first division, it will be seen that the
passage from the southward to Panama Bay is easily made during the greater
part of the year; but in the fine season, when within the influence of the
northers, the following plan should be adopted. Make short tacks in-shore,
as there is generally a set to the northward found within a few miles of the
land, and where that is interrupted, a regular tide is exchanged for a con-
stantly contrary current further off. Between Chirambira point and Cape
Corrientes the land is low and faced with shoals, caused by the mouths of
the numerous rivers which have their outlets on this part of the coast, but
after passing Cape Corrientes, it may be approached pretty closely, except
off Francisco Solano point, where some shoal rocky patches extend to sea-
ward, as the coast is in general bold-to. Care, however, should be taken
not to run into the calms caused by the high lands, as it is difficult to get off
into the breeze again, and the swell sets in-shore where it frequently happens
that no anchorage is to be found till close to the rocks.
In beating up the Bay of Panama in the fine season, the eastern passage
or that between the Islas del Rey and the main, is to be preferred, as, with
one exception, it is free from dangers. The water is smooth, and a regular
tide enables you to make more northing than it would be possible to do, in
nine cases out of ten, against the strong current, and short high sea,
which at this season prevail in the centre or on the western side. During
the rainy season, a straight course up the bay is preferable to entangling
yourself with the islands, the current generally following the direction of
the wind.
From Panama Bay to the Southward.-But the great difficulty at all times
consists in getting either to the southward or westward of Panama. The
passage to the southward is made in two ways,-either by beating up the
coast against a constantly foul wind and contrary current, or by standing off
to sea till sufficient southing is made to allow you to fetch your port on the
starboard tack. Both plans are very tedious, as it frequently takes twenty
days to beat up to Guayaquil, whilst six or seven days are an average pas-
sage down.
From Panama Bay to the Westward.—If bound to the westward during the
northers, a great deal of time may be saved by keeping close in-shore, and
thus taking advantage of them; they will carry you as far as the Gulf of
Nicoya. When past the Morro Hermosa, "Papagayos" may be be looked
for, and with them a course should be steered for the Gulf of Tehuantepec,
when it will depend on the port you are bound to, whether, after crossing
the gulf by the aid of one of its gales, you should keep in or off-shore. If
bound for Acapulco, keep in and beat up; but if bound to the westward,
PASSAGES.
967
you cannot do better than make a West course, as nearly as the winds will
allow you.
The passage to the westward from Panama during the rainy season is a
most tedious affair, calms, squalls, contrary winds and currents, accompanied
by a heavy swell and extreme heat, as well as an atmosphere loaded with
moisture and rain, are the daily accompaniments. It often occurs that 20
miles of westing are not made in a week, and it is only by the industrious
use of every equall and slant of wind that the passage can be made at all.*
Opinions are divided amongst the coasters as to the propriety of working to
the southward and trying to get rid of the bad weather, or beating up within
a moderate distance of the land. My experience would lead me to prefer
the latter, as the strong winds and frequent squalls which so often occur near
the land sometimes allow a good long leg to be made to the north-west-
ward, while, further off, this advantage is sacrificed for only a shade finer
weather.
From the Galapagos Islands to Cape St. Lucas.-I have already alluded to
the difficulty of getting to the westward from the Bay of Panama. The
trade-wind seems to possess no steady influence to the eastward of a line
drawn from Cape St. Lucas, in 22° N. to the Galapagos islands on the
equator. Amongst these islands the south-eastern trade wind. is steady
during nine or ten months of the year, and it is only in January and Febru-
ary, and sometimes March, that they are interrupted by long calms, and
occasional breezes North and N.W., but these are never of any great
strength. To the northward of them, the eastern limit of the trade seems to
depend upon the time of year. In the early part of April I have found it
between the parallels of 8° and 13° N., 900 to 1,000 miles further to the east-
ward than at the end of June; and in the intermediate months, either more
or less to the eastward as it was earlier or later in the season, but in no case
that I have met with has a steady or regular trade been experienced till the
above line has been reached. It is this circumstance, and the prevalence in
the intermediate space of westerly winds, calms, and contrary currents, that
makes the passage from Panama to the westward, as far as this line, so
tedious. I have been forty days beating from the entrance of the bay in 80°
* Of the tedious nature of this navigation, the following sad account will be a good ex-
ample:—The barque Emily, from London, sailed from Panama for San Francisco on the
7th of March (1852), and after being out NINETY-FIVE days put into San Blas, with nine-
teen of the passengers dead. The passengers were then transferred to the Archibald Gracie,
and they were sixty-five days on the passage to San Francisco, during which time eighteen
more of the passengers died. The sufferings endured by the unfortunate passengers is al-
most beyond description. For the last thirteen days of the passage they were on an allow-
ance of a pint of water per day, and totally without provisions.
968
PASSAGES.
W., to the eastern edge of the trade in 111° W., a distance of less than 2,000
miles, or on an average about 40 miles per day.
From the Meridian of Cape St. Lucas Westward.-When once within the
influence of the trade, a passage is easily made either to the southward,
westward, or northward; but it must be borne in mind that the eastern
verge of this seems, in these parts, to be influenced by the seasons.
Thus,
in June and July, I found it fresh from N.N.W., and even at times N.W.,
as far out as the meridian of 125° W., whereas in March and April it was
light from N.N.E. to E. and E.S.E., from our first meeting it in 98° W., till
past the meridian of Cape St. Lucas in 110° W., where I picked up a good
steady breeze from N.N.E.
As a general rule the wind is found to haul more to the eastward as you
get farther off the land, and I did not find this rule affected by the latitude,
as, although, as I have stated, the wind hangs to the northward, and even
at times to the westward of North, near the eastern limit of the trade, from
the tropic of Cancer to the variables near the equator, I found it about the
meridian of the Sandwich islands as far to the eastward on and near the line
as it was in 35° N., in which latitude the westerly winds are in general
met with.
The following remarks on the passage from South America to Central
America, are by Captain De Lapelin, who was sent in the French corvette
La Brillante to make a reconnaissance of the hydrography of the coast of
Central America in 1852.
Whatever may be the point of departure, the first track should take nearly
on the meridian of the islands of St. Ambrose and Felix, in order to gain the
S.E. trades. After that stern so as to pass some leagues to the West of
Point Ajuja, to gain the fine South and S.S.W. breezes which blow through-
out the year, and will carry you up with Cape Blanco (Gulf of Guayaquil),
which should be made to correct the reckoning. Thence cross the line in
about 83° or 84° W., keeping 50 leagues at least from the Galapagos. From
the equator the destination will regulate the route. If bound to the Gulf of
Dulce, or any point East of Pt. Herradura, in the Gulf of Mexico, always
endeavour to make Point Burrica. If bound for the Gulf of Nicoya make
for Cape Blanco, and if for Realejo, make for the Volcano el Viejo, from
whence you can easily fetch any point to the West of the Gulf of
Papagayos.
But if bound for Acajutla or San Jose de Guatemala, a direct route from
the line passes near to Cocos island, which being well laid down will make a
good point of departure, and then the volcanoes of Central America form ex-
cellent landmarks for the ports, as described in the directions. But from
May to November, a period when these landmarks are seldom visible, the
high lands there being almost always hidden by haze, vessels from the South
PASSAGES.
969
should make for Cape Blanco, and then follow the coast at a distance of 12
to 15 miles, which can be done without danger. Some think that it is always
best for a vessel from the South to make Cape Blanco of Guayaquil, and
then Cape Blanco of Nicoya, and then by following the coast that they will
find the breezes stronger and the current always favourable.
J
COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
The following brief instructions are derived from the Report of the United
States Surveyors :—
Sailing vessels bound to the northward from Monterey, or any more
northern port during the summer season, should stand well off-shore, not too
close hauled, until about 200 miles from the land, when they will be beyond
the influence of the southerly current, and in a situation to take advantage
of a slant of wind which frequently occurs from the W.N.W. They would
do well not to approach the land, unless favoured by the winds so as to
enable them to lay their course, or nearly so, until up with the latitude of the
destined port.
Steamers should follow the coast from point to point as nearly as possible,
always keeping within 15 miles of the land. They will by this means
shorten the distance, and frequently avoid the strong N.W. wind, as they
will often find it quite calm close in with the shore, when there is a wind to
seaward.
Vessels bound to the northward in the winter season should keep as close
along the land as practicable, and take every advantage of all southerly
winds to make latitude. They should always endeavour to make the
land at least 20 or 30 miles to the southward of the destined harbour.
If bound to the southward keep the coast in sight, and take advantage of
either tack upon which the most latitude may be made, always making the
land to the northward of the port in summer, and to the southward in the
winter season.
Bound to San Francisco or Monterey, use every opportunity to observe for
latitude or longitude, so as to know the vessel's position up to the latest mo-
ment, as fogs and haze, preventing observations, prevail near the land.
Allow generally for a southerly set of half a mile per hour, until within
about 50 miles of the land; after which, at times, it is not appreciable.
With these precautions vessels may steer boldly on, shaping a course for
the South Farallon, an islet about 250 feet high and a mile long, having
14 fathoms water and good holding ground on the S.E. side.
On approaching soundings the water becomes of a pale green colour.
Soundings may be had in 60 to 40 fathoms, soft ooze, if approaching point
Reyes. Below 40 fathoms is near the land, and the surf should be heard,
if haze prevents the land from being seen. If the soundings are 30 fathoms
or under, and the sea smooth, anchor with a kedge until the land becomes
970
PASSAGES.
visible, so as to take a compass bearing, as the position cannot otherwise be
relied on.
If up
with the South Farallon and night approaching, or there are appear-
ances of fog, anchor at the Farallon and wait till daylight, when the morn-
ing breeze will carry the vessel to the bar or pilot-ground.
Inside the Farallones the "set" is generally towards the North shore,
which may be approached without risk, keeping outside of the kelp, that
marks rocks under water.
SAN FRANCISCO.
Mr. Davidson, U.S.N., in his excellent directions for the western coast of
the United States, gives the following statistics of the voyages made to and
from San Francisco, which will be interesting; but each year seeing some
improvement in the sailing powers of our ships, of course the average dura-
tion of the voyages become correspondingly shortened.
The number of clippers arriving at San Francisco from New York during
the 10 years, 1850 to 1859, was 663, and the average length of the passage
was 135.7 days. In the same years 373 arrived from Boston, and the average
passage was 136 days.
In 1850 six clippers arrived from New York averaging only 115 days;
the Sea Witch being reported at 97 days, but her actual passage was 101.
The average passage of all American vessels that arrived from Atlantic ports
was 187 days.
In 1851 only two clippers made the passage in less than 100 days-the
Surprise in 96, and the Flying Cloud in 90, both from New York.
In 1852 the Flying Fish made it in 98 from Boston, and the Sword Fish in
93 from New York.
In 1853 it was made by the Contest in 97 days, Flying Fish in 92, John
Gilpin in 93, and the Oriental reported 100; all from New York.
In 1854 the passage was made by the David Brown in 98 days, the Flying
Cloud in 89, the Hurricane in 99, the Witchcraft in 97, from New York; and
by the Romance of the Seas in 96 days from Boston.
In 1855 no vessel made it in 100 days, although the Herald of the Morning
and Neptune's Car reported in 100 from New York, and the Westward Ho in
100 from Boston.
In 1856 the Antelope made it in 97 days, and the Sweepstakes in 94 from
New York.
In 1857 the Flying Dragon arrived in 98 days, and the Great Republic in 92
from New York. The Danish clipper Cimbar made the trip from Liverpool
in 106 days, the quickest on record.
In 1858 the ship Twilight made the passage in 100 days, and the Andrew
Jackson in 99 days from New York.
PASSAGES.
971
In 1859 no vessel made the passage in 100 days. The Andrew Jackson
made the shortest trip in 102 days from New York.
In 1860 the ship Sierra Nevada made the passage from Boston in 971
days, and the Andrew Jackson from New York in 90 days.
The shortest passage made from New York to San Francisco by steam-
ship, via the Isthmus of Panama, was by the Moses Taylor, on the eastern
side, and the Golden Age on the western, their actual running time 19 days
23 hours; total time from dock to wharf 21 days, 2 hours, 13 minutes, arriv-
ing at San Francisco February 26, 1858.
The clipper Northern Light, of Boston, is reported to have made the run
from San Frencisco to New York, in ballast, in 75 days, and the Trade
Wind, with cargo, in 84 days. The average time of passage is about 100
days.
The average length of passages from other prominent ports is given for
the years 1857, 1858, and 1859.
From China 32 vessels arrived in 1857, averaging 59 days, the quickest
trip from Shanghai being 34 days, by the tern Spray, and from Hong Kong
in 35 days, by the schooner Giulietta.
In 1858 28 vessels arrived, averaging 53 days, and in 1859 28 vessels,
averaging 54 days.
From Honolulu 19 vessels arrived in 1851, averaging 19 days, the shortest
trip being made by the barque Yankee, in 13 days.
In 1858 25 vessels arrived, averaging 15 days, the shortest trip being
made by the barque Yankee, in 11 days. In 1859, 20 vessels arrived, aver-
aging 20 days, the shortest passage being by the barque Onward, in 10
days.
For a period of five years ending August 1, 1859, a record was kept of
427 passages between San Francisco and Honolulu. The average time of
224 passages from San Francisco to Honolulu was 163 days, four being made
In 9 days each. The average time of 203 passages from Honolulu to San
Francisco was 23 days, three being made in 11 days each.
From Valparaiso 17 vessels arrived in 1857, averaging 54 days, the shortest
passage being made by the Danish ship Velox, in 37 days. In 1858 16 ves-
sels arrived, averaging 73 days.
From Australia 13 vessels arrived in 1857, averaging 81 days out, the
shortest passage by the topsail schooner Vaquero, in 57 days. In 1858 14
vessels arrived, averaging 80 days, the shortest passage being made by the
Vaquero in 54 days. In 1859, 27 vessels arrived, averaging 76 days.
972
PASSAGES.
BETWEEN CALIFORNIA AND CHINA.
In the preceding passages we have alluded to a system of navigation al-
most exclusively governed by local causes, and which, so far, are in re-
ality not restricted to the shortest distance between the respective places.
In getting beyond the verge of the trade winds, and in laying a track which
embraces so many degrees of longitude as the distances between the above
countries, it becomes another matter which is the shortest as well as the best
course to pursue. As we have elsewhere described in the passage between
Australia and the southern part of America, the great circle course be-
comes fully developed.
In the voyage from East to West, of course the readiest method is to
gain the parallels of the trade-winds as soon as convenient, and by these
means run down the westing, which in this case brings the ship to her
destination.
But the return voyage is another matter, and the probably best track leads
into very different regions.
Thus the rhumb course from the Bashee chan-
nel between Formosa and the Philippine islands to San Francisco, is about
E. 9° N; but the great circle course, from the same point, runs first N. 46°
E., so that it touches the eastern part of the Madjico-sima islands, inside or
to the West of the Loochoo islands, and then cuts the S.E. cape of Nippon.
Farther eastward it attains the latitude of 48° N, longitude 169°W, and
then proceeds East and E.S.E. towards San Francisco; so that San Fran-
cisco bears N.E. E., true, from Hong Kong, and Hong Kong bears
N.W. N. from San Francisco.
It will be very readily comprehended that a track so widely differing from
the rhumb bearing of E. & N. allows a wide range of choice for improving
the passage, so that a ship immediately on getting off the China coast may
bear at once to the northward, and availing herself of the S.W. winds
which predominate to the northward, may also be assisted by the strong
north-easterly current setting along the outer coast of the Japanese Ar-
chipelago, and probably extending its influence nearly to the American
coast.
It is also a question whether it would not be advantageous to make the
first portion of the passage inside the Japanese islands, and enter the North
Pacific by the Strait of Tsugar or Sangar; as the most direct track is not
very far distant from such a course, and cannot be by any means lengthened
by pursuing it.
This single instance will serve to direct attention to the wide variation that
the great circle course is from that ordinarily pursued. And by specially
applying its principles to any other points on the western coast of America,
PASSAGES.
973
and the ports on the opposite side of the Pacific, it will be manifest that a
very great range of ocean is left open to the navigator.
BEWEEN THE ISLANDS, ETC.
Sandwich Islands to Tahiti.-There is great difficulty in making this passage
across the trades. The whalers and all others speak with great doubt of
fetching Tahiti from the Sandwich islands. Captain Bruce says that a ves-
sel should keep to the northward until she gets a start of wind before bear-
ing for her destination. In his passage between them in November 1837,
he had no variables near the line in coming South, and never could
make eastiug on either tack, though he endeavoured by every means in
his power to do so.
The Imogene left Karakakooa Bay, October 17, 1837; and, reaching the
South point of the island after twenty-five hours' sail, bore away on a S.S.E.
course with a fiery trade at E.N.E.; this failed on the 22nd; the ship was
tacked to a southerly breeze, which lasted till the 25th, when a fresh S. by
E. trade sprang up. Between the 21st and 25th an easterly current set for
30 to 35 miles a day; after that a westerly current of 16 to 40 miles per
day was found. Every opportunity was seized to gain easting, and to get to
windward of the meridian of Tahiti, but without success. The equator was
crossed on October 28th, in long. 154° 40', wind East by South, having been
on a bow line ever since leaving Hawaii. Passed Bellingshausen island on
November 5th; and, as the ship drew to the southward, the wind gradually
came to East, E.N.E., and N.E., always bringing the port directly in the
wind's eye. November 8th, passed Rimitara; on the 9th, squalls, with most
terrific rain; on the 10th, the wind veered to N.W., and finally S.S.W.;
on the 11th, saw Rurutu. The wind now favoured the ship, and for the
first time since leaving Hawaii she laid her course, and continued to do
so. Bearing W.N.W. 7 or 8 leagues, made Tahiti on the 13th, and an-
chored the same day at Papiete. Thus, had not a favourable change in
the wind occurred in the latter portion of the passage, she would have been
to leeward.
In the passage from Tahiti to Hawaii, Captain Beechey says:-From the
time we passed Maiatea we endeavoured to get to the eastward, and to cross
the equator in about 150° West longitude, so that, when we met the N.E,
trade wind, we might be well to windward. There is, otherwise, some diffi-
culty in rounding Owhyhee, which should be done about 40 miles to the
eastward to ensure the breeze. The passage between the Society and Sand-
wich islands routes differs from a navigation between the same parallels in
the Atlantic, in the former being exempt from the long calms which same-
times prevail about the equator, and in the S.E. trade being more easterly.
The westerly current is much the same in both; and if not attended to in the
974
PASSAGES.
Pacific, will carry a ship so far to leeward, that, by the time she reaches the
parallel of the Sandwich islands, she will be a long way to westward, and
have much difficulty in beating up to them.-(Beechey's Voyage, vol. i,
page 230).
Across the Equator.-In a review of the routes of the U.S. Exploring
Squadron from the Fiji islands to the Northern Hemisphere, Capt. Wilkes
says:—"It will be apparent that there is no necessity for vessels bound to
the northward and eastward across the Pacific Ocean, to make for the
northern variables, as has heretofore been the practice, thus making a very
circuitous course, and occupying a much greater portion of time, besides
subjecting themselves to encounter much bad weather. This, however, is
not to be understood as applying to vessels to the westward of long. 180°:
they ought to make the shortest possible stay within the Trades; and if this
is determined upon, they should steer due North, without regard to making
easting, until they have fully entered the variables. It is, however, at
times, very doubtful where they will encounter them; and as far as our ex-
perience goes, and that of other navigators whom I have consulted, they
ought not to be expected short of lat. 27° to 20° N., to which parallel the
Trades often reach. The great difficulty seems to be, with many,
that on
the first wind from the West being encountered, they are induced to be-
lieve that it will prove constant, when nine times out of ten they will be
deceived.
Sandwich Islands to the Northward and Eastward.-The passages from the
Sandwich islands to any part of the N.W. coast of America, are made by
standing to the northward till the westerly winds are reached, when the
run into the coast is easily made, taking care, however, if bound to a
port to the southward of you, not to bear up till well in with the land,
when north-westerly winds will be found to carry you down to the south-
ward.
On this coast, as a general rule, the land should be made to the north-
ward of the port you are bound to, as in almost all cases the wind and cur-
rent both prevail from the northward from Vancouver island to Cape Cor-
rientes of Mexico.
Though lying between the parallels of 19° and 23° N. the Sandwich islands
are often visited during the winter months with strong breezes and gales
from South and S.W., but for the rest of the year the trade wind blows
pretty steadily. In making a passage from thence to the coast of Chili or
Peru, the best way is to stand across the trade as near the wind as the top-
mast studding-sail will stand. This, as the direction of the wind is in general
from E.N.E. to East, will enable you to make Tahiti, and pass the Society
islands by one of the clear channels to the westward of them. It is of little
use trying to fetch to the eastward of these, as not only do you lose much
PASSAGES.
975
time by hugging the wind too close, but also the strong current, which sets
to the westward from 20 to 40 miles a day, is pretty sure to drift you that
much to leeward; and even were this not the case, so difficult, tedious, and
dangerous is the navigation amongst the archipelago of low coral islands
which lie to the eastward, that, unless you can weather the Marquesas al-
together, it is better even to bear up, than to entangle yourself in such a la-
byrinth. After passing the Society islands stand on to the southward, till
in or about the 30th parallel, when the westerly winds will be found. These
will carry you into the coast; care being taken, as on the northern coast,
not to bear up when within the influence of the southerly winds, till near
enough to the land to ensure keeping them down to your port.
The foregoing will be all that is necessary to elucidate the navigation of the
North Pacific Ocean, which is very simple when away from the land influ-
ences which cause the embarrassing winds, calms, and currents, which have
been alluded to. The illustrative charts of the Winds, Currents, and Pas-
sages, will enable the navigator to choose the best route and readiest means
of shortening a passage not specifically described.
In closing this book, which may be taken as the concluding volume of the
series of six which describe the great oceans of the world, the author has
much gratification in mentally reviewing his past labours, and the pleasures
it has given him to collect the funds of varied information they contain.
The coasts of the whole world have been described in them. The ports open
to its commerce, the dangers which are to be avoided by its mariners, the
innumerable features of interest and wonder which distinguish its shores,
are more or less minutely described or alluded to. The marvels of the
oceans themselves, their depth, and the mighty circulatory systems which
give but one uniform characteristic to the world of waters, the effects of the
winds which blow over them, the meteorological influences which affect the
sailors' avocation in every quarter of the globe, are all, it is trusted, faith-
fully represented in them.
In full confidence of their utility as thus collected, the especial thanks of the
author are now accorded to all who have added to that rich mine of hydro-
graphical literature, from which he has been able to draw the materials for
these books.
In the preface to this, as in those to his other works, these obligations are
976
PASSAGES.
more especially particularised, and it is earnestly hoped that no source of
information has been overlooked, or that there is any omission of acknow-
ledgement to those who have furnished the materials for them.
INDEX.
Aamak Island, 518
Aba Bay, 680
Abatanok Island, 507
Abbey Hill, 197
Abbey Point, 896
Abbey Reef, 897
Abolocheff Bay, 539
Abre-ogo, 891
Abreojos Point, 145-6
Acahi-Fanahi Point, 801
Acapulco, 79, 90, 92, 94, 914
Acajutla, 3, 63, 68, 70
Achachinskoi and Bay, 562
Acland Islands, 303
Acoucheki Island, 893
Active Cove, 280
Active Pass, 287, 291, 304-5
Adair Bay, 132
Adakh Island, 514
Adam Peak, 901
Adams, Point, 231, 234-5
Addenbrooke Point, 426
Addington, Cape, 458
Adeloup Point, 801
Admiral Island, 294, 298,
302, 306
Admiralty Inlet and Head,
257-8
Admiralty Island, 459, 464
Adréanoff Islands, 505
Aektok Island, 507
Affleck Canal, 457
Afognac Island, 493, 496
Afuera, 19, 20
Afuera, Silva de, 23
Afulfa Morro, 128
Agamemnon Channel, 403
Agana, 799, 801
Agat, 799, 801
Agattou Island, 516
Ageach Island, 502
Agenhu Island, 897
Agrigan Island, 804, 814
Agfayan Bay, 803
Agougak River, 520
Agua, Volcan de, 3, 73, 74
Aguatulco, Port of, 90
Aguijan Island, 804
Ahayan Point and Bay, 798
Ahmen Creek, 211
North Pacific.
Aian, Port, 571
Ailinginae Island, 727
Ailinglabelab Islands, 730
Ailuk Island, 724-5
Aino Sima, 675
Airik Island, 722
Ai Sima, 602, 607, 664, 666
Ajayan and Point, 798, 801,
803
Aji River, 611
Ajikawa River, 611
Ajiro Bay, 632
Ajuja, Rio, 34
Akamokum Island, 775
Akasi Strait, 609, 610
Akenose Misaki, 608
Akin Reef, 891
Akona District, 836
Akoun Island, 507
Akoutan Island and Strait,
507, 508, 511
Akounskoi Strait, 507
Akunora, 678
Akuisi Sima, 893
Alaid Island, 562
Alamagan Island, 813
Alan Point and Island, 265
268
Alarm Rock, 300, 301
Alaska, 918
Alaska Coast, 443
Alaska Territory, 435
Alava Point, 450
Alberni Inlet, 328, 331, 337
Albert Head, 319
Albert Peninsula, 589
Albion River, 204
Alcas Rock, 548
Alcatraz Island, 92, 185,
187, 191
Alcmene Island, 892
Alden Bank, 276-7, 280, 289
Alert Bay, 418
Alert, Port, 700
Alet Island, 761
Aleutian Islands, 498, 504
Alexander Point, 404, 455
Alexander, Port, 420, 421
Alexandroffsk, Fort, 489,
521
Alexandrovsky, 582
Alexinoy Island, 502
Algerine Bluff, 673
Aliaska, 501, 504, 518
Alice Thorndyke Reef, 703
Alijos, Los, 858
Aljos Rocks, 145
Ali Sima, 617
Alitok Bay, 496
Alki, 260
Allen Bank, 259, 261
Allen Island, 716
Allen's Islands, 134
Almagro Island, 129
Almejas Bay, 141
Aloupan Island, 800
Alpha Island, 325
Alseya River, 228
Altar, 130
Altas, Sierras, 175
Altata and River, 124
Althorp, Port, 469
Altona Gulf, 476
Alutung Island, 800
Amagi-yama Mount, 632
Amakusa Island, 681
Amantes, Point
802
de los,
Amapala, Gulf of, 56, 58
Amapala Mountain, 59
Amatignak Island, 515
Amatitlan Lake, 73
Ambernoh River, 780
Ameca Bay, 104
Amelius Point, 457
America Bay, 589
American Anchorage, 641
American Islands, 699
Americano, Estero, 200
Amherst Rocks, 683
Amlia Island, 512
Amphitrite Channel, 564
Amphitrite Point, 340
Amsterdam Island, 891
Amtschitka, Cape, 508
Amtschitka Island, 504, 515
Amortajada Bay, 137
Amoughta Island and Chan-
nel, 511
Amur Bay, 588
3 R
978
INDEX.
Amur River, 567, 573
Amur, Gulf of, 580, 584
Amytideu Island, 760
Anacapa Island, 161, 169
Anachoretes Island, 776
Anadyrsk, 546
Anadyr, Gulf of, 541
Anadyr River, 546
Ananga-ura, 615
Anatajan Island, 811
Anataxan Island, 811
Anchorage Island, 366, 618
Anchorites Island, 776
Anchor Point, 490
Ancon, Cerro, 11, 13
Anda-rivel, The, 73
Andema Islands, 751
Anderson Island, 263, 531
Andreanoff Islands, 511, 514
Andrews Island, 859
Andrews, Port, 488
Angaligarail Island, 764
Angaur Island, 775
Angel de la Guardia Island,
133
Angel Island, 189
Angeles Bay, 131, 134
Angeles Island, 133
Angeles, Los, 160
Angeles, Port, 91
Angelos Point and Port,
254-5
Anian, Strait of, 257
Anil Island, 721
Animak Island, 503
Anita Rock, 188
Aniwa, Cape and Bay, 573,
577
Anmer Point, 462
Anna Island, 783
Annette Creek, 304
Anonima Island, 759
Ano Nuevo Point, 177, 180
Anson Road, 805
Anson Shoal, 817
Ant Islands, 751
Anvil Island, 399
Anvil Peak, 385
Aoga Island, 628
Aosima yama, 669
Aoumi Sima, 664-5
Aoura Island, 742
Apaiang Island, 708, 716
Apamana Island, 714
Apapa Island, 800
Apex Strait, 669
Aphoon River, 524
Apia Island, 716
Apollos Island, 891
Apple-tree Cove, 259
Apra Island, 800
Apua, 825
Apurguan Point, 801
Arabia Shoal, 859, 861
Arachne Reef, 296
Arago, Cape, 224
Aragouzet Islands, 772
Arakamtchetchen Id., 539
Araktcheeff Islands, 722
•
Aranjuez River, 37
Aranuka Island, 708, 713
Arari Bay, 623-4
Arari Point, 618
Ara Sima, 624
Arauca Barba Point, 42
Arboleta, 126
Arbutus Island, 297
Archangel Gabriel Bay, 546
Archangel, New, 473, 920
Archimede Island, 893
Arch Rock, 188
Arden Point, 462
Ardilla Island, 129
Arena Point, 203
Arenas, Puntas, 4
Arenas, Punta, 37
Arenitas, Punta, 31
Arguello Point, 172
Argun River, 584-5
Arhno Island, 721
Arimoa Islands, 780
Arispe, 123
Arita River, 616
Arizona, 131
Armoura River, 542
Armstrong, Port, 468
Arno Islands, 722
Arnold's Point, 132
Arnold Rock, 357
Arore Island, 710
Arran Rapids, 410
Arrecifos Islands, 733
Arrinas, Islands, Las, 133
Arrowsmith Island, 721
Arrowsmith, Mount, 393
Arteck Island, 773
Arthur's Island, 732
Artingale District, 773
Aru Point, 745
Aru Rock, 548
Arurai Island, 710
Arvata, 208
Arzobispo Islands, 878
Asan Island, 796.
Ascension Islands, 743
Aseradores Island, 50, 52
Asia, East Cape of, 529
Asia Islands, 781
Asina Bay, 638
Aska Sima, 669, 685
Aspinwall, 12
Assatchinskoi Volcano, 551
Asses Ears, 10
Asses Ears Group, 682
Assinia Islands, 662
Assumption Island, 815
Astley, Point, 462
Astoria, 238-9, 446, 916
Astor Point, 238-9
Astrolabe Gulf, 778
Astrolabe Rock, 661
Atami, 637
Atcha Island, 512
Athos, Mount, 540
Atitlan Volcano, 73, 74
Atkins Reef, 306
Asuncion Island, 146, 815
Atkha Island, 512
Atkinson Point, 384-4, 399
Atkis, Port, 654
Atlantic Island, 742
Atooi Island, 818, 852
Atos Creek, 178
Atowai Island, 852
Atsusi-no O sima, 668
Attcheun, Cape, 543
Attou Island, 505, 516
Auau Channel, 844
Audrincia, Punta de la, 98
Augusta, Point, 468
Augusta, Port, 394-5
Aurh Island, 719, 722
Austro, Cape, 52
Avatcha Volcano and Bay,
551, 555, 558
Aves Islands, 37
Avinoff, Cape, 522
Avos Rock, 564
Awadji, 610
Awadsi Island, 609
Awa Peninsula, 633
A wa Sima, 608 657-8
Awatcha Road, 555
Ayak Island, 527
Ayan, Port, 571
Ayougadagh Island, 516
Ayuca, Morro, 85
Ayuta de Santiago de Ysta-
pa, 85
Azada Island, 117
Aziak Island, 527
Bebelthuap Island, 773
Baboushka Island, 556
Baboushka Rock, 558
Bacon Hill, 323
Bache, Mount, 179
Bagona Hills and River, 112
Bahia Honda, 19
Bahia Ona, 160
Baikul Lake, 584
Bailey Islands, 884
Bainbridge Island, 260
Bainbridge Port, 486
Baja, Punta, 127
Bajo Point, 354
Bajo Rajado, 26
Bajo Reef, 350, 351
Bajo Reef, Inner, 354
Baker's Bay, 232, 238, 241
Baker Island, 703
Baker Mount, 267
Baker Pass, 405
Baker Point, 456
Balaclava Island, 421
Balbi Point, 587
Balch Passage, 263
Bald Head, 526
Bald Pate Mount, 181
Bali Island, 789
Ballast Point, 156
Ball Cape, 439, 443
Ballenas Bay, 145
Ballena, Rock La, 34
Ballena Port, 137
Ballenas and Bay, 194-5
Ballenita Rocks, La, 34
Ballinac Island and Chan-
nel, 391-2
Ballouzek Cape, 591
Balsa, Punta de la, 180
Balshe Unala, Riko, 481
Baltasar Head, 18
Bamba Bay, 85
Bamfield Creek, 329
Banaba Island, 717
Banco, Punta del, 31, 32
Banks Island, 430, 432
Banks, Port, 476
Baraco, 27
Baranca River, 37
Baranoff Island, 467-8
Barbacoas, 12
Barbadoes Islands, 723
Barbary Island, 703
Barber Island, 703
Barclay Sound, 312, 328,
332, 337
Bare Island, 288, 292, 295,
298, 342, 369
Bare Point, 299
Barfleur Pass, 400
Baring Islands, 730-1
Barlow Cove, 463
Barnabas, Cape, 496
Barnett, Cape, 458
Barnes Island, 276
Barneveld's Island, 625
Barney's Rock, 859
Barnpool, 897
Barracouta
Harbour and
Bay, 580, 581
Barracouta Rock, 676
Barra del Espiritu Santo, 65
Barra Falsa, 52
Barren Island, 495
Barr Island, 721
Barrick Rock, 657
Barrie Point, 456
Barrier Group, 359, 362
Barrier Island, 572
Barrow Bay, 899
Barter Cove, 362
Bartholomew Island, 7
Bartlett Island, 343
Base Flat, 394
Base Point, 346
Bass Reef-tied Islands 722
Bassiosus Island, 866
Bat Islands, 41.
Battery Point, 212, 260, 599
Battle Bay, 363, 364
Battle Rock, 221
Baubelthouap Island, 773
Bau Island, 930
Baugne Point, 800
Bawden Bay, 347
Baxo Trista Island, 754
Baynes Channel, 325
Baynes Sound, 391–393
Bayoneta Island, 7
Bayonnaise Island, La, 629
Bay Rock, 689
Bazan Port, 458
Bazil Point, 487
Beacon Hill, 323
INDEX.
Beacon Point, 640
Beacon Rock, 389
Beak Point, 394
Beale, Cape, 329, 331, 333
Bear Creek, 206
Beaton Island, 452
Beauclerc, Port, 457
Beaufort Mountains, 391,
395
Beaver Cove, 4, 417
Beaver Harbour, 419
Beaver Point, 302
Beaver Rock, 413
Becher Bay, 317
Becher Mount, 395
Bede Point, 489
Bedford Islands, 317
Bedwell Harbour, 291
Bedwell Inlet, 369
Bedwell Sound, 344
Beechey Head, 317
Beechey Group, The, 880
Bee Islands, 407
Begg Rock, 168
Behm Canal, 450
Behring Bay, 476, 477
Behring Cape, 544
Behring Island, 548
Behring Sea, 517, 498, 920
Behring Strait, 529
Behring Vessel Bay, 546
Belhoula, 428
Belle Rock, 274-5
Bell Island, 451
Belitre Point, 23
Bella Coola River, 428
Bellingham Bay, 268, 274
Bellingshausen, Cape, 576
Bello, Porto, 10
Belmont Point, 355
Benado Islands, 16, 24, 27
Benoist Mount, 779
Bentinck Arms, 427
Bentinck Island, 318-19
Bentinck Point, 483
Berner Bay, 466
Bernizet Peak, 573
Berry Point, 387
Bertrand Island, 778
Besborough Island, 525-26
Best Island, 789
Betchevinskaia Bay, 555
Bierka Island, 473
Bigali Island, 762
Bigar or Bikar Island, 725
Bight Cove, 354
Bikini (or Bigini) Islands,
727
Bingham Point, 470
Bingo Nada, 601, 606, 610
Binzli Reef, 618
Biorka Island, 475
Birch Bay, 269
Bird Island, 295, 724, 810,
856
Bird Reef, 299
Bird Rock, 188, 193, 274,
275
Bird's Cape, 515
Bird's-eye Cove, 299
Birds Islands, 337
Birnie Island, 433, 449
Biro Sima, 672
979
Birthday Channel, 357
Bishop Island, 707, 711
Bishop Junction Islands,
723
Bishop Rock, 165, 888-9
Bittern Rocks, 646, 658
Bitumen Springs, 160
Biwa, Lake, 611, 663
Black and White Rock, 607
Black Cape, 509
Black Head, 98
Black Islands, 283
Black Mountain, 180
Black Point, 187
Black Rock, 368, 333, 630,
633
Blacklock Shoal, 761
Blagniere Point, 454
Blake Island, 261
Blake Reef, 892
Blakely Harbour, 260
Blanco, Cape, 35, 39, 222,
645, 914
Blanco, Fort, 185
Blancos Islands, 98
Blaney Island, 713
Bligan, Cape, 569
Bligh Island, 352, 353, 484
Blijni Islands, 505, 516
Blind Bay, 286
Blind Creek, 405-6
Blind Reef, 356
Blinkinsop Bay, 415
Blonde Keef and Point, 830
Blossom Reef, 896-7
Blossom Rock (removed),
115, 188, 193
Blue Mount, 197
Bluff, Cape, 238
Bluff, Fort, 106
Blunden Island, 290, 291,
342
Blunden Point, 391
Blunt, Cape, 647
Blunt Island, 267, 326
Blunt's Rocks, 206-7
Blyde Berg, 657
Blying Sound, 488
Boat River, 368
Boatswain Bank, 297
Bobrovaia Bay, 508
Bobrovi Island, 534
Boca Barra, 83
Boca Brava, 24
Boca-del-Inferno, 352
Boca San Pedro, 28
Bodega Head and Bay, 200
Bodega, l'ort, 920
Bodisko Peninsula, 587
Bolano Island, 27
Bolcheretsk, 561, 568
Bolchoireka River, 568
Bold Bluff, 298, 368, 370
Bolshaya River, 568
Bomasiri Island, 578
980
INDEX.
Bona Island, 15
Bona Vista Island, 805
Boneta Point, 184, 195
Bonham Islands, 726, 730
Bonilla Island, 267
Bonilla Point, 251, 314, 326
Bonin Islands, 687, 878
Bonnet Island, 670
Boot Cove, 290
Bordelaise Island, 753-4
Borodino Islands, 890
Borrough Bay, 451
Boshi Yama, 672
Bosphorus, Eastern, 589
Boston Islands, 731
Bottle Rock, 620
Boudeuse Island, 776
Bougainville Mount, 779
Boughey Bay, 416
Bouguenieu, 721
Boulder, 299
Boulder Point, 409, 415
Bouldyr Island, 516
Boundary Bay, 269
Boungo Channel, 596, 600
Bourdieu Bay, 490
Boussole Channel, 562
Bowen Island, 385, 399, 400
Bowyer Island, 399
Boyarin Bay, 589
Boyle Islands, 423
Brace Point, 261
Brackenridge Bluff, 247
Bradfield Canal, 454
Braithwaite Bay, 787
Brama Point, 779
Brancas Piedras, 92
Brandten Eyland, 627
Brat Chirnoef Island, 565
Brava Island, 27, 28
Brava Point, 9, 17
Bridget Point, 466
Bright Island, 305, 424
Brincanco Island, 22
Bristol Bay, 446, 520, 521
British Columbia, 375, 425
Brito, 46
Britomart Reef, 816
Broken Channel, 342
Broken Group, 335
Broken Head, 590
Broken Islands, 334-5, 416,
626
Broken Point, 285
Brood Rocks, 626
Brooke Island, 697
Brooks Bay, 365, 367
Brooks Island, 869
Brooks Peninsula, 365
Brooks Shoal, 863
Broom Tree, 239
Brothers Island, 323
Brothers Islands, 781
Brotchy Ledge, 320, 322
Brothers Point, 102
Brothers Rock, 558
Brothers Rocks, 671
Broughton Bay, 902
Broughton, Cape, 654
Broughton Island, 565
Broughton Strait, 417, 418
Broughton Rock, 628
Brown Channel, 590
Brown Island, 278, 284
Brown Islands, 729, 732
Brown Pass, 432
Brown Point, 246
Browning Channel, 423
Browning Creek, 370
Browning Harbour, 290
Browning Pass, 345, 421
Browning Rock, 416
Bruce, Port, 588
Bruja Island, 130
Bruja Rock, La, 25
Bruja Point, 15, 93
Bryant Point, 487
Brydone Island, 591
Buache Mount., 739
Bucareli, Port, 458
Buchan, Monte de, 173
Buckland Island, 880, 884
Buck Point, 438, 441
Bucksport, 208
Budds Harbour, 255
Budds Inlet, 262
Buena Point, 41
Buenaventura River, 9
Buenaventura, San, 161
Buey Bank, 6
Buey Point, 12
Buey Rock, 26
Bufadero, 90
Buisaco Island, 634
Bull Harbour, 420, 422
Bull Pass, 402
Bull Rock, 335, 371
Bullock Bay, 592
Bullock Bluff, 406
Bultig Island, 781
Bune Sima, 878
Bungalow Island, 893
Bunker Island, 69, 864
Bunkey's Island, 759
Bunn, 667
Bunsby Island, 363
Buonaparte River, 375
Buoy Rocks, 587
Burdwood Bay, 408
Burdwood Point, 351
Burgess Island, 342, 347
Burgoyne Bay, 298
Burial Island, 298
Burica, 31
Burica or Burrica Pt., 28, 29
Burke Canal, 427, 428
Burnt Hill, 369
Burnt Island, 511, 514
Burrard Inlet, 378, 384-5
Burrows Island, 268, 875
Burruca, Rio, 34
Bush Point, 258
Bushy Island, 455
Bute Inlet, 406, 409
Butaritari Island, 717
Button Islands, 725
Byers Island, 874
Byki, Cape, 582
Byron's Bay, 828
Byron Island, 706, 710
Caamano, Cape, 452
Caballo, 21
Caballos, Puerto, 56
Cabra, Cerro de, 15
Cabras Island, 800
Cabra Spit, 15
Cabra, Tetas de, 128
Cacique Point, 40-1
Cactus Island, 292
Cadboro Bay, 324
Cadboro Point, 289, 325
Cadiak Island, 493
Cagaves Island, 37
Cahoos River, 225
Calalan Reefs, 800
Calandare Point, 117
Calderas, 3, 36
Calder, Mount., 456
Caledonia Bay, 6
California, 152
California, Gulf and Penin-
sula, 119, 121, 123
Callam Bay, 254
Call Creek, 416
Calm Channel, 409
Calver, Cape, 319
Calvert Island, 426, 722
Calville, 131
Camden, Port, 460
Camira Island, 875
Cammas Plains, 217
Campania, Isla de la, 430
Campbell Point, 492
Campbell Reef, 754
Camp Bay, 291
Camp Cove, 286
Camp Island, 407, 409
Camp Point, 414, 417
Campeche, Gulf of, 82
Camuta Rios, 97
Canal Island, 19
Canas Island, 8
Canaveral, Port, 432
Candadillo Point, 64
Canoe Island, 282, 309
Canoe Reef, 346
Canoe Rocks, 296
Cano Island, 33, 35
Canon, Grand, 132
Caoba, 72
Capalita River, 89
Capeniur Island, 725
Capero, Sierra, 15
Capper Island, 859
Capper's Island, 789
Capricieuse Bay, 587
Capstan Island, 337
Capstan Head, 896, 897
Captain Bay, 507
Captain Pass, 303, 307
Caracolito Island, 61
Carapellas Islands, 772
Cardon Chan. & Id., 50, 52
Cardon, False, 55
Careen Creek, 282
Carey Island, 26
Cariboo, 375
Carmel Bay and Point, 175,
176
Carmen, Island del, 135,
136
Carolina Channel, 340
Caroline Archipelago, 694,
734
Caroline Reef, 325
Carr Bank, 581
Carrington Bay, 406, 407,
409
Carr's Inlet, 262
Carter Bay, 429
Carteret Reef, 782
Cartwright Sound, 438, 441
Casares, 47
Casaya Island, 7
Cascade Bay, 286
Cascade Canal, 428
Cascade
260, 376
Mountains, 217,
Case's Inlet, 262
Casobos Islands, 733
Cassini Island, 587
Castanon Bluff, 52
Castanon Islands, 50
Castillos, La Villa de los,
113
Castle Point, 424, 590
Castricum, Cape, 566
Castries Bay and Point, 580,
582
Casy, Cape, 587
Catala Island, 356
Catalana Island, 136
Catalina Point, 40
Cat-face Mountains, 343,
347
Catharine, Cape, 580
Catherine Islands, 728
Cattle Islands, 420
Cattle Point, 277, 326
Caution, Cape, 426
Caution Point, 279
Cavallos, Punta de los, 189
Cayado Hills and Cape, 23,
24
Cebaco Island, 17, 18
Cecille Archipelago, 892
Cecil Rock, 297
Cedros Island, 147
Celetse River, 228
Celia Reef, 296
Ceniza Fair, 64
Cenizas Head, 150
Central America, 1
Centre Island, 407, 422, 634
Centre Reef, 292, 309, 340
Centre Rock, 325, 405
Cerro Morro, 83
Cerralbo Island, 138
Cerisy Peak, 777
Cerros Island, 147
Chacala, 104
Chacktools Bay, 524
Chacon, Cape de, 453
Chagamil Mountain, 510
Chagres, 12
INDEX.
Chain Islands, 324, 303
Chain Island, 335
Chaktolimout Bay, 524
Chalaltenango, 63
Chalan Anita, Cape, 799
Chalmers, Port, 487
Chalque Islan1, 441
Chame Bay and Point, 15
Chamela, 103
Chametla Hills and River,
112
Chamis Bay, 361
Chamisso, Port, 756
Chancellor Channel, 415
Changarmi, 14
Channel Island, 341, 403
Channel Islets, 02
Channel Point, 325
Channel Reef, 334, 337, 357,
367
Chapera Island, 7
Chaplin, Cape, 541
Charco Azul, 28
Charles Island and Rock,
281, 304, 306, 307
Charlotte Island, 716
Chasintzoff, 453
Chat Chan Point, 360
Chatham Bay, 696
Chatham Channel, 416
Chatham Islands, 325, 723
Chatham Strait, 459, 464-5,
467
Chatham Point, 411, 413
Chatham, Port, 489
Chatham Sound, 431-2
Chehalis River, 246-7
Chelighoff, or Chelekhoff
Strait, 496, 497, 520
Chelnitt Islands, 731
Chemainos Bay, 299, 300
Chepillo Island, 10
Chepo River, 10
Cherry Point, 297
Chestakoff Island, 519
Chess Board Islands, 776
Chet-ko River, 219
Chiboko, 531
Chica, Boca, 28
Chichagoff Island, 467
Chichakoff, Cape, 598, 635,
922
Chicaylis River, 217
Chichaldinskoi and Volcano,
506
Chicapa River, 83
Chicarene Point, 59, 62
Chichkoff, Cape, 506
Chief Rock, 363
Chigah Island, 654
Chikotan Island, 654
Chilhat, 465
Chimaltenango, 3
Chiman and River, 9
Chimmo Bay, 28
Chimney Rock, 898
Chimsain Peninsula, 434
Chinche Island, 20
Chinche Bay, 20
981
Chinendega, Old, 46
Chiniatskoy Bay, 494
Chinois River, 247
Chinook Point, 241
Chioreto River, 799
Chipre Island, 7
Chiquirin Bay, 62
Chirambira Point, 911
Chirin-kotan Island, 564
Chirikoff, Cape, 920
Chirnoef Island, 565
Chirique Lagoon, 3
Chiriqui Bay, 24
Chiriqui Coast, 28
Chiriquin Point, 59
Chirnoi Brothers Island, 565
Chirnoi Island, 565
Chismuyo Bay, 56
Chiswell Islands, 488
Choco Bay, 911
Chofu, Hagi, 604
Cholmondeley Sound, 453
Choluteca River, 3
Chome Island, 586
Choncha Pelona, 33
Chonga, Cerro del, 87
Choukotskoi, Cape, 530
Choutales, 48
Chramtschenko Islands, 730
Christian Island, 667
Christie Pass, 421
Christian Sound, 459, 464
Christmas Harbour, 723
Christmas Island, 697
Chuchegal, 26
Chuchican, Ensenada de, 26
Chugachnik Bay, 490
Chung-chi Island, 899, 901
Church, Cape, 317, 318
Ciervo Island, 116
Cinaloa, 123
Claasit, 216
Clallums, 255
Clam Bay, 299, 306, 309
Clan-ninick Harbour, 359,
362
Clara Island, 363
Clara, Santa, 50
Clarence Island, 131
Clarence, Port, 527
Clarence Strait, 452
Clarence Strait, Duke of,
452
Clarion Island, 788
Clark Island, 276, 280
Claro, Rio, 29
Classet, Cape, 252
Clatsop and Beach, 235
Clatsop Channel, 238
Clayoquot Sound, 341, 346,
347
Clements Reef, 280-1, 288
Cleopatre Island, 893
Clerke Island, 531
Clerke Reefs, 365
Clerk Island, 711, 716
Cleopha, 105
Cliff Island, 284
Climate, Alaska, 448
982
INDEX.
·
Climate, Caroline Islands,
736
Central America, 4
Mexico, 80
822
Sandwich Islands,
Clio Rock, 92
Clipperton Island or Rock,
785
Cloud Island, 789
Clover Point, 323
Coal Bay, 489, 490
Coalcamen, Rio, 97
Coal Harbour, 372, 385
Coal Island, 295
Coal Point, 221, 297
Coaster Channel, 336
Cobre, Arroyo del, 21
Cochore, 128
Cochrane Point, 485
Cocino Island, 103
Cockburn, Cape, 404
Cocoa-nut Cove and Island,
830
Cocoa-nut Island, 829
Cocos Bay, 40
Cocos Island, 52, 695, 798
Cocos Point, 8
Coffin Island, 299, 371, 629
Coffin Harbour, 879, 885,
886
Coiba Island, 17, 19
Cojutepeque, 68
Coke Point, 462
Colima, 99
Colima Volcano, 79, 98, 100
Collingwood Channel, 399
Colnett, Cape, 150
Colnett Island, 665
Colombia, Islas de, 6
Colon, 12
Colorado and Island, 102,
103
Colorado, Punta, 135
Colorado, Rio, 121-2, 130-1
Colpoys Point, 455
Columbia River, 212, 217,
232, 236, 241
Column Peak, 10
Colunas Island, 875
Colville, Cape, 274
Colvos Passage, 261
Colvos Rocks, 264
Colwood Farm, 322
Colwood Islet, 355
Comayagua, 3
Commander Islands, 548
Commerell, Cape, 421, 424
Commencement Bay, 261
Commerson Island, 776
Company's Island, 565
Compass, Variation of the,
952
Comptroller Bay, 482
Comte Heiden Bay, 519
Concepcion de Caborea, Rio
de la, 130
Concepcion Point, 184, 222,
916
Concepcion, Sierra, & Point,
162-3
Concession, The, 613
Conchagua Bay, 3
Conchagua, Gulf of, 56, 62
Conchaguita Island, 56
Conclusion Island, 456
Conclusion, Port, 467
Conconi Reef, 291
Concordia, 45, 63, 66
Cone Island, 347, 666
Conejo Island, 23
Congo, Cerro, 8
Congress Island, 877
Conical Island, 617
Conuma Peak, 351, 353
Cono Island, 20
Conqueror Bank, 608
Constance Bank, 326
Constance Cove, 319, 321
Constance, Mount, 265
Constantine, Cape, 520
Constantine Harbour, 484
Constantin Island, 753
Constitution Mountain, 276,
285, 379
Contadora Island and Chan -
nel, 7
Contra Costa Mountains,
183
Contreras Islands, 22
Converden, Point, 465, 468
Conversion Point, 161
Cook, Cape, 327, 364, 365
Cook Inlet, 446, 489, 919
Cook River Inlet, 476
Cook's Island, 715
Cook Strait, 522
Cooper Inlet, 316
Cooper Islets, 893
Cooper's Island, 789, 859
Cooper Reef, 297
Copalis River, 246-7
Copalux River, 244
Copper Island, 330, 517, 549,
789, 859
Coquille Island, 762
Coquille Islands, 731
Coquille Harbour, 741
Coquille River, 223
Coral Islands, 690
Corcovado Rock, 33
Cordilleras, 79
Cordonazo de San Francis-
co, 80, 111
Cordova Bay and Port, 458
Cordova Channel, 287, 289,
295
Cordova, Port, 484
Corea Strait, 597
Cormorant Bay, 289
Cormorant Island, 418
Cormorant Rock, 420
Cornwallis Bay, 787
Cornwallis Islands, 790
Cornwallis Point, 459
Corvetana Rock, La, 104
Coronados Islands, 151
Coronados Island, 135
Coronation Island, 457
Coror Island, 772-3
Corral Tierra, Punta de,
180
Corrientes, Cape, 103
Corrora Island, 773
Corso, Cape, 144
Cortes Island, 406-7
Cortes, Sea of, 122
Cortes Shoal, 164
Cortez, 56
Coruma Island, 900
Corvi Bay, 612
Cosala, 123
Coseguina, 3, 49, 55
Coseguina Point, 58
Costa del Balsamo, 68
Costa Rica, 1, 29
Costa Tasca, 47
Costello Reef, 754
Coto, Rio, 31, 32
Cottam Reef, 392
Coulgiak Island, 491
Countess Point, 486
Count Heiden Islands, 724
Courtenay River, 394, 395
Covell Islands, 731
Covey Island, 668
Cowitchen Head and Har-
bour, 238, 298
Cowlitz Bay, 289, 294
Cowlitz River, 217, 241
Coxcomb Hill, 240
Cox, Point, 341-2
Cox Island, 425
Coyuca, Paps of, 94, 96
Cracroft Island, 417
Craig Point, 455
Crane Island, 284
Crane Islands, 423
Crane Shoal, 703
Creasy, Cape, 589
Crescent Bay, 252
Crescent City and Bay, 211
Crescent Point, 301
Cresciente Island, 141
Crespo Island, 875
Creston Island, 112
Crillon, Cape, 577, 579
Crillon Mount, 471
Crispin Rock, 290
Croisilles, Cape, 778
Crooze Island, 467
Cross Sound, 467, 469, 470,
471
Crown Island, 283, 777-S,
894
Crown Princess, Wreck, 189
Crozer Mount, 739
Cuacaul Point, 92
Cuchilla Grande, 195
Culebra, 13
Culebra, Port, 40, 41
Culiacan, 123
Culiacan River, 123
Culross Point, 485
Cumbra de las Auras, 181
Cumming Point, 430
Cumshewas Harbour, 438
Curé Island, 868
Current Island, 783
Current Pass, 415
CURRENTS of the North Pa-
cific Ocean, 934-951
in general, 934:
North Equatorial Cur-
rent, 935; Equatorial
Counter Current, 937;
the Japanese Current, 941
-948; Sea of Japan, 948;
Sea of Okhotsk, 949; Sea
of Behring, 949; N.W.
Coast of America, 950;
Coast of California, 950;
West Coast of Mexico,
950
Black Gulf, 941
Caroline Archipe-
lago, 738
4
Central America,
Equatorial, 935
Japanese, 597, 941
Ladrone Islands,
796
824
North Pacific, 934
Sandwich Islands,
Vancouver Island,
313
Custodios, Cape, los, 104
Custodios River, 104
Cuttle Group, 363
Cuyler's Harbour, 170-1
Cyclops Mountains, 779
Cypress Bay, 343
Cypress Cone and Id., 284
Cypress Island and Reef,
268
Cypress Point, 175
Dædalus Pass, 420
Daibo saki, 639
Daizo Island, 607
Dalco Point, 261
Dallas Mountain, 293
Dalrymple, Cape, 576
Damas Bay, 18
Dames, Port de, 18
Dampier Island, 778
Dampier Strait, 777
Danaide Rocks, 13
Danéono Island, 798
Dangereuse Rock, La, 578
Danger Island, 791
Danger Islands, E. and W.,
732
Danger Reef, 299, 301, 310
Danger Rock, 280, 294, 334,
337, 355, 582
Danger Rocks, 369
Danger Shoal, 292
Daniel Island, 721
D'Anville, Cape, 922
D'Anville Gulf, 587
Darby Cape, 526
Darcy Island, 288, 295
Dark Island, 344
INDEX.
Dark Cove, 404
Darkers Island, 875
Dasima saki, 681
David Town, 16, 27
David Bay, 25
David Channel, 339
David River, 28
Davidson Rock, 274
Davis Bay, 275
Dawson Island, 725
Dawydoff Island, 516
Day Point, 429
Dead-tree Point, 438
Dean Canal, 428
Deans Dundas, Port, 589
Decapolis Reef, 753
Decatur Island, 275, 282
Deception Channel, 343
Deception Pass, 267, 345
Decierta Island, 875
Decision, Cape, 457, 459,
464
Decker's Island, 861
De Courcy Island, 310
Deep Bay, 394, 898
Deep Cove, 297, 298, 399
Deep Inlet, 360
Deep Pass, 343-4
Deep-water Bay, 413
Deer Harbour, 284-5
Deer Island, 27, 419
Deer Islands, 329, 333
Deer Lagoon, 259
Defiance Point, 262
De Fuca's Pillar, 252
De Fuca Strait, 251, 274,
326
Deik's Island, 875
Délaroff Islands, 514
Delarovskoi, 503
Delaware Bank, 867
Delgada Point, 142
Delisle, Cape, 575
Departure Bay, 389
Denbigh, Cape, 524
Denman Island, 391, 393
Dent, Cape, 582
Derbinskoi Strait, 506
Derby, 384
Descartes Point, 42
Deserted Bay, 404
Deserted Creek, 353
Desgraciada, La, 818
Desima, 677
Desolado, Cape, 40, 47
Desolation Sound, 405
Despensa Island, 42
Destitution, Cape, 582
Destruction Island, 224, 249
Devil's Ridge, 453
De Vries, Cape, 566
Dezima Island, 593
Diablo Point, 187
Diablo, Punta del, 801
Diamante Point, 93–96
Diamond Cape, 634
Diamond Hill, 850
Diamond Point, 286
Diana Island, 330
Diana Shoal, 703
Diana Strait, 565
Dickinson Point, 418
Dick, Mount, 402
Dick Port, 488
983
Digges Sound or Bay, 478
Dillon Point and Rock, 420,
421
Dinner Point, 291
Diomede Islands, 529, 530
Dionysius Mountain, 542
Direction Bluff, 558
Direction Mountain, 587
Disappointment, Cape, 231,
235, 580, 592
Disappointment Island, 888
Disaster Island, 893
Discovery Island, 287, 304
Discovery Islands, 325
Discovery Passage, 411, 413
Discovery, Port, 256
Disney Point, 280, 294
Dixie Cove, 361
Dixon Channel, 435
Diyi Island, 613
Djaoré, Cape, 586
Djino Sima, 616
Dockyard Island, 370
Dodd Narrows, 287, 299,
306, 309, 390
Dodger Cove, 333-4
Dodo Rocks, 645
Dog Island, 713
Dolores, Isla de, 249
Dolores Island, 891
Dolphin Point, 261
Dominical Point, 34
Donegal Head, 418
Dongandsha Bay, 572
Doreï, Port, 781
Dory, Port, 781
Do Sima, 668
Dotensan, Peak of, 609
Douangea, Cape, 572
Double Bluff, 258
Double Head, 646
Double Island, 340, 344, 357
Double-topped Mountain,
898
Double-wedge Island, 665
Douglas, Cape, 490, 497
Douglas Channel, 277, 279
Douglas Harbour, 442
Douglas Island, 459, 463
Douglas Mount, 289
Douglas Rock, 888
Dove Island, 729
Dove Reef, 667, 686
Downs Point, 575
Doyle Island, 421, 423
Dragon Rocks, 213, 219
Drakes Island, 866
Drayton Harbour, 270
Drew Harbour, 406, 408,
409
Drovianaia Cove, 509
Drummond Island, 707, 711,
713
Drew Rock, 291
984
INDEX.
Dry Island, 869
Duck Island, 572
Dudemaine Island, 779
Duke of Clarence Strait, 457
Duke of York Archipelago,
454
Dulce, Gulf of, 30, 32, 911
Dulce River, 92
Dume Point, 160
Duncan Bay, 412
Duncan Canal, 455
Duncan Island, 421
Duncan Rock, 253
Dundas Island, 432, 714,
892
Dundas, Point, 469
Dungeness Bay, New, 255
Dungeness, False, 255
Dunkin Reef, 755
Duntze Head, 320
Duntze Rock, 253
Duperré, 778
Duperrey Island, 755
Duperrey Islands, 742
Du Petit Thouars Shoal,
142
Durour Island, 777
D'Urville Island, 755
D'Urville, Point, 780
Duval Point, 420
Duwamish Bay, 260
Duxbury Point and Reef,
191, 194, 200
Dyke Point, 320
Dzinozetti Channel, 613
Eagle Harbour, 260
Eagle Island, 263
Ear Island, 767
Earl Ledge, 415
Ears Rock, The, 880
East Cape of Asia, 535
East Faiu Island, 759
East Sound, 286
Easy Creek, 361
Eauripik Islands, 766
Ebisima, 619
Ebon Island, 719, 781
Ecola Creek, 231
Eddystone Rock, New, 450
Edensaw's Village, 440
Edgecumbe, Cape and
Mountain, 467, 472, 474
Ediz Hook, 255
Edmund Point, 427
Edward, Cape, 471
Edward Point, 428
Eel Reef, 418
Eel River, 207
Eel River Valley, 223
Effingham Inlet, 337
Egerup Islands, 723
Egg Island, 525
Egg Islands, 508
Egmedio Island, 723
Egorkovskoi, 509
Egvekinot Bay, 545
Ekarma Island, 564
Elato Island, 762
Elbow Island and Rocks,
336
El Coxo, 164
Eld Island, 246
Eld's Inlet, 262
Eleanor Cove, 478
Elena, Cape and Bay, 41-2
Elizabeth, Cape, 488, 574
Elizabeth Islands, 731
Eliza Dome, 358
Eliza Island, 711
Eliza, Port, 356, 357
El Juco Point, 24
Elk Bay, 413
Elk River, 208, 221
Ella Island, 763
Ellen Bay, 303
Ellice Point, 238
Ellis Point, 241, 459
Ellis Reef, 667, 686
Elmore Islands, 730
El Moro, 159
El Moro Rock, 174
El Morro, 94
Elmstone Rock, 640, 643
El Muelle Rock, 69
El Osteonal Rocks, 42
Elota River, 123
El Pozo, 26
Elpynghyn Mountain, 540
Elrington Point, 486
El Viejo, 50
Elwha River, 254
Emma Harbour, 543
Emmelagui District, 773
Emmelian, Cape, 543
Enderby Islands and Bank,
761
Endermo Harbour, 655
Engano, Cabo del, 472
Engaoughin Bay, 545
Englefield Bay, 441
English Bay, 385
English Harbour, 700
Eniwetok Islands, 732
Eno-ura Bay, 623-1
Ensillada Island, 25
Enterprise Channel, 323
Enterprize Reefs, 291, 304
Entrada Point, 142, 144
Entrance Bank, 412
Entrance Head, 603
Entrance Island, 334, 369,
387
Entrance Rock, 391
Entrance Shoal, 283
Epiphany Bay and Port,
496
Equatorial Current, North,
935
Equipalito Rocks, 135
Eratatsi, Cape, 645
Eremitinos, Los, 777
Erie Mountain, 278
Erikub Islands, 723
Eroen, Cape, 654
Eroro Islands, 654
Errakong Island, 775
Esarmi, Cape, 647
Escalante Point, 351, 348
Escape Point, 452
Escape Reef, 300, 416
Escape Reefs, 299
Eschevan Island, 85
Eschscholtz Islands, 727
Esclavos Pazas, Rios dos, 72
Escondido, Puerto, 130, 136
Escudo de Veragua River, 1
Escuiatla, 76
Esermi Harbour, 655
Espartel Island, 24
Esperanza Inlet, 355-357
Espineza Arm, 357
Espiritu Santo Island, 137,
138
Espuela Island, 20-1
Esquimalt Harbour, 297,
318, 320
Esquinas, Rio de las, 32
Essington, Port, 431
Estapa, 97
Estero, The, 37
Estero Bay, 174
Estero del Arsenal, 109
Estero Dona Paula, 50
Estero Real, 49, 61
Esteros, Los, 174
Estevan Point, 347, 365
Esther Island, 485
Estiva Island, 15
Etal Islands, 755, 757
Etches, Port, 483
Etelkouium Bay, 545
Etoline, Cape, 521
Etoline Harbour, 454
Eugénie Archipelago, 589
Euphrosyne Rock, 888
Eureka, 208
Euryalus Rock, 600
Evalouk Islands, 763
Evans Bay, 408
Evdokeeff Islands, 501
Evening Island, 782
Evosn, Cape, 654
Ewa District and River, 848
Ewing Harbour, 221
Ewing Island, 281
Ewing Peak, 238
Expedition Bay, 587
Eyries Mount, 779
Facpi Point, 799, 801
Fain Island, West, 762
Fairfax Point, 297
Faiu Haven, 849
Fair Harbour, 361
Fair of La Paz, 63
Fairway Channel, 387-8
Fairway Rock, 530
Fairweather Mountain and
Cape, 465, 471, 476
Fais Island, 766
Fakuda Saki, 677
Falalep Island, 766
Falcon, Cape, 231
Falcone Anchorage, 802
Falfan River, 14
Faliao Island, 762
Falipi Island and Bank, 763
False Bay, 156, 158, 283,
398
False Capstan Head, 896
False Channel, 357
False Creek, 385
False Island, 300
False Narrows, 310, 390
Faluellap Island, 765
Fanadik Island, 760
Fananou Island, 759
Fane Island, 291
Fanuing Island, 699
Fanny Bay, 393-4
Fanopé Island, 743
Fanshaw Cape, 460-1
Faounoupei Island, 743
Faraguet Island, 779
Farailes Island, 764
Farailesse Island, 765
Farallone Point, 101
Farallones, The, 197
Farallones Alijos, 858
Farallon Island, S., 191
Farallon Ingles, 9
Farallon de Medinilla, 810
Farallon de Pajaros, 816
Farallon de Prosper, 22
Farallon de Torres, 811
Fararik Island, 763
Farnham Island, 792
Farrallones Rocks, 145
Farroïlap Island, 765
Farugelma Island, 587
Fatsizio Island, 628
Fattoïlap Island, 765
Fauntleroy's Rock, 206, 212
Favida Island, 401
Fawn Island, 285
Fearless Rock, 225
Fearney Point, 403
Feis Island, 766
Feklistoff Island, 572
Felalisse Island, 765
Felipe, Point, 162
Fermin Point, 159
Fern Cove, 261
Ferrer Point, 354
Feys Island, 766
Fiddle Reef, 324
Fidalgo Island, 267, 278
Fidalgo, Port, 484
Finisterre Mountains, 778
Finlayson Island, 433
Finlayson Mountain, 277,
293
Fin Rock, 222
Firando, 593, 669
Fira Sima, 893
Firmin Point, 167
Firmin, San, 138
Fisgard Island and Light,
318, 320
Fish River, 581
Fisher Canal, 428
Fisher Island, 885
Fisherman Cove, 430
North Pacific.
INDEX.
Fisherman Reef, 617
Fisherman Rock, 604-5
Fishing Rocks, 203
Fitton Bay, 884
Fitz Island, 355
Fitzgibbon Point, 451
Fitzhugh Sound, 426
Five-fathom Shoal, 325
Five-finger Island, 390
Five Hummocks Point, 149
Flamenco Island, 13
Flamenco Point, 14
Flat Bay, 576
Flat Hill, 239
Flat Island, 398, 602
Flat Islands, 401
Flat Point, 282
Flat-top Island, 279
Flat-top Islands, 311, 345
Flat-top, Mount, 369
Flat-top Point, 102
Flattery, Cape, 218, 248,
252
Flattery, Cape, and Light,
316
Flattery Rocks, 250
Flints, Point of, 172
Flora's Creek, 223
Florence Shoal, 816
Flores Island, 345-6
Flower Island, 357
Foggy Cape, 449
Fog Rock, 330
Folger Island, 817
Fonseca, 64
Fonseca, Gulf of, 49, 56, 912
Fonté Bank, 326
Foraulep Island, 765
Forbes Island, 340
Forçade Rock, 892
Fordyce Pass, 722
Foreland, N., 492
Forfana Island, 878
Formosa, 687
Formosa, Coast of, 900
Forrester Island, 458
Forsyth Point, 437
Fort Point, 185
Fortunas, Cape, 206
Fortune Channel, 344
Forward Bay, 416
Forward Inlet, 368-9
Forwood Channel, 387
Foster Point, 286
Foul Bay, 323
Foul Point, 647
Foulweather Bluff, 258-9
Foulweather, Cape, 228-9
Four-fathoms Bank, 186
Four-foot Rock, 686
Four Mountains Islands,
510
Fourteen Island Group, 732
Fox, Cape, 449
Fox Island, 262, 589
Fox Islands, 505
Frailes, Los, 16
Frailes Rocks, 101-2
Français, Baie des, 471
Francis Island, 711
Francis Point, 269, 403
Franklin Bay, 778
Frazer Island, 317
Frazer Islands, 751
985
Frazer River, 257, 269, 376,
380
Frederick Point, 408, 440
Frederick, Port, 469
Freeman Point, 581
Freemantle Point, 485
Freewill Islands, 781
French Frigate's Shoal,
831
Freshwater Bay, 254
Freshwater Island, 789
Friday Harbour, 278
Friendly Cove, 351
Frio River, 48
Frost Island, 282-3
Frost Shoal, 861
Fruitful Island, 791
Fuca Strait, Juan de, 251,
316
Fuego Volcano, 3, 73-4
Fuerte, Rio del, and Town,
123, 125, 126
Fugur River, 572
Fukai, 671
Fukioka, 666
Fukube Island, 609
Fukura, 615
Fuku-ura, 603, 632
Fukuye, 671
Fulford Harbour, 297, 302
Fulford Reef, 325
Furasato Saki, 686
Furato Saki, 669
Fureck, Port, 654
Fusiyama Mountain, 623,
636
Futakami, 668
Futako Sima, 674, 681
Futo Saki, 632
Futsu Saki, 640
Gabilan, 14
Gabriola Pass and Reefs,
306, 311
Gabriola Reefs and Island,
386, 387
Galaino Island, 306
Galera Island, 6, 8
Galeta, La, 15
Galiano Island, 301, 304,
421
Galley Rock, 339
Gallina Island, 137
Gallo Island, 137
Gallows Point, 388
Gamaley, Cape, 646, 658
Gambier Island, 400
Gambier, Point, 462
Gamble, Port, 264
Gami, Isla, 27
Gamova, Cape, 587
Gamova Point, 588
Ganges Harbour, 302-3
3 s
986
INDEX.
Ganges Reef, 877
Gapan Island, 801
Garachiné Point, 6
Garapan, 808
Garbanzos, 817
Garden Island, 484
Gardner Canal, 430
Gardner Island, 765, 863
Gardner, Mount, 385
Gardner Point, 459, 464
Gardner, Port, 266
Garishka, 527
Garns Point, 459
Garova Island, 56
Garry Point, 381
Gaspar Island, 791
Gaspar Rico Islands, 725,
791
Gaston Bay, 269
Gauttier Mountains, 779
Gavareah, Cape, 556, 561
Gaviota Pass, 163
Geelwink Bay and Point,
780
Genkar Nada, 666
Genkar Sima, 666
Gensiu-gawa River, 660
Geoffrey, Mount, 393
George, Point, 239
Georgia Strait, 274, 305,
308, 377, 391, 397
Georgia, Gulf of, 267
Gerald Island, 392
Germantown Reef, 894
Ghibu-isi Rock, 633
Ghij ga, Fort, 569
Ghjinsk, and Gulf of, 569
Giganta, El Cerro de la, 135
Gig Harbour, 261
Gihon's Bluff, 210
Gil Island, 430
Gila River, 131-2
Gilbert Island, 715
Gilbert Archipelago, 694,
706, 940
Gilbert River, 590
Gilles Bay, 401
Gillespy Island, 716
Giquilisco, 64
Givry Island, 758
Glasenapp Road, 540
Glazenap, Cape, 518
Glenthorne Creek, 304
Glimpse Reefs, 323
Gloubokaia Bay, 513
Gloubokaia Cove, 509
Gnaton, 802
Goat Island, 724, 884
Goazacoalcos River, 82, 84
Gobernador Island, 17
Gold Bluff, 210
Gold Harbour, 441
Golden Gate, The, 155, 184
Golden Horn Bay, 589
Golden Rock 617
Golenichtcheff Cape, 551-2
Goletas Channel, 420, 421,
422, 425
Golfito, El, 32
Golfo Dulce, 29
Golovatcheff or Golovachef,
Cape, 574, 584
Golovnine Bay, 526
Golownin Strait, 564
Goly Island, 507
Gomez Island, 117
Gongo Sima, 606
Gonzales, 8
Gonzales Point, 324
Gooch Island, 297
Good Hope, Bay of, 654
Good Look-out Islands, 772
Good News Bay, 522
Goose Island, 278
Goose Spit, 395
Gorbun Rock, 494
Gorda Point, 9, 21, 40-1
Gorda, Punta, 30, 139, 206
Gordon Group, 421
Gordon Head, 289
Gordon Islands, 423
Gordon Point, 418
Gordon River, 316
Gore Island, 131
Gore Island, and Cape, 531,
532
Gore Point, 488
Goreli Island, 511
Goreloy Island, 514
Gorge Harbour, 407
Gossip Island, 305
Goten Yama, 642
Gotenyama Hills, 644
Goto Cape, 672
Goto Islands, 671
Goulding Harbour, 471
Goulon Islands, 769
Governor Rock, 307
Govenskoi, Cape, 547
Gower Point, 399, 400
Gowlland Harbour
Island, 411
Gowlland Rocks, 341
Goza Inlet, 621
Grace, Point, 486
Graham Bluff, 643
Graham, Cape, 99, 100
Graham Harbour, 489
Graham Island, 437, 440
Grajero Point, 150
Grampus Islands, 877
Granada, 48
Granada, Lake of, 47
Granado River, 34
Grande, River, 14-
Grande, Rio, 29, 204
Granite Island, 363
Granite Point, 413
Grantley Harbour, 528
Grappler Creek, 329
Grappler Reef, 301, 308
Gravel Spit, 283
Grave Point, 299
Graves, Port, 399, 400
Gravina Island, 450, 452
Gravina, Port, 484
Gray Feather Bank, 760
Gray's Bay, 235
Gray's Harbour, 245-6
Great Bank, 338
Great Lu-chu Island, 895
Green Bank, 286
Green Cove, 331
Green Hill, 831
Green Island, 486, 488, 868
Green Point, 241, 292
Greenwich Island, 753
Gregory, Cape, 224, 226
Greig Cape, 520, 646
Grenville Canal, 430
Grenville Cape, 231
Grenville Point, 242, 248
Greville Cape, 496
Grey Point, 380, 385
Grey Rock, 392, 423
Griffin Bay, 278
Grief Point, 405
Grifo Island, 92, 93
Grifo Point, 94
Grigan Island, 794, 814
Grimes Island, 766
Grindall Point, 453
Grottes, Pointe des, 810
Guadalupe Island, 858
Guadalupa, Baya de, 472
Guahan Island, 794, 797
Guajan Island, 797
Guam Island, 797
Guanacaste, 29, 43
Guanavano, 28
Guapilon Point, 34
Guaquina Arm, 353
Guarida Point, 20, 21
Guascames Point, 911
Guatemala, 2
Guatemala, Coast of, 76
Guatemala, Mountain of, 74
Guatemala, Republic of, 72
Guatemala, Volcano of, 67
and
Guatlan, 104
Guatulco, 85, 88, 89
Guaymas, 80, 82, 111, 126
Guaymas River, 138
Guaymas, Port, 122
Guayaquil River, 911
Gueguensi Island, 58
Guemes Island, 267
Guerete Mountain, 745
Guerin Gulf, 588
Guguan Island, 812
Guibert, Cape, 657
Guichicovi Mountains, 84
Guide Islands, 407
Guinea, North Coast of,
New, 777
Guiones, Cape, 39, 40
Guiranas, Punta de, 156
Gun Cliff, 646
Gunner Harbour, 345
Gurguan Point, 807
Guyamas River, 172
Guy Rock, 816
Hachken Gawa River, 616
Hadagase, 675
Haddington Island, 418
Haddington, Port, 900, 902
Hadshi Bay, 581
Haida Point, 286
Hagemeister Island, 521
Hahainish Harbour, 265
Hakodadi or Hakodate Har-
bour, 634, 648, 649
Hakodate Head, 645, 647
Hakosaki Bay, 666
Hakubo Island, 607
Halawa Point, 845
Halcyon Island, 792
Halelea Bay, 854
Halezof, Cape, 584
Half Moon Bay, 180
Half Tide Rock, 278, 283,
343
Halgan, Cape, 543
Halibut Channel, 362
Halibut Island and Head,
503
Hall Island, 307, 309, 715,
758
Hallowes Island, 672
Hamana, 621
Hamilton Point, 903
Hammersley's Inlet, 262
Hamo Bay, 603
Hammond Rocks, 316
Hamond, Cape, 482
Hanadi Island, 899
Hanalae Bay, 854
Hanamura Bay, 609
Hanapepe Valley, 853
Hand Island, 339
Hankin Point, 286
Hankin Rock, 344
Hans Olasen Harbour, 655
Hanson Island, 417
Hanson Point, 245
Harbour Island, 331, 357,
358, 589, 668, 893
Harbour Point, 100
Harbour Rock, 278, 286
Harbottle Island, 714
Hardy Bay, 420
Hardy Island, 367, 404
Hardy Harbour, 671
Hardwicke Island, 414, 415
Harida nada, 601
Harima nada, 609, 610
Harney Channel, 286
Haro Archipelago, 251, 272,
273
Haro, Cape, 127
Haro Strait, Directions, 288
Haro Strait, 279, 287, 294,
325, 326, 377
Harriet Point, 491
Harrington Point, 455
Harris Point, 459
Harrison River, 376, 382
Harry Point, 297
Harvey, Port, 415, 416
Harwood Island, 105
Hasedasinose Bank, 610
Hashmy Islands, 757
Hasikiwi, 620
Hasikiwi Anchorage, 619
Ha Sima, 632
INDEX.
Hasyokan Island, 901
Hatch Point, 297
Hat Island, 364
Hato saki, 668, 686
Haula Bay, 847
Haumilulu, 86
Havannah Channel, 416
Haven's Anchorage, 203
Hawaii Island, 819, 826
Haweis Island, 762
Hawkesbury Island, 429
Hawkins Island, 304, 484
Haya saki, 681
Haycock Bluff, 641
Haycock Islands, 425
Haystack Rock, 632
Haystacks, The, 364
Haystrous Island, 791
Hazama Mountain, 639
Hazel Point, 265
Hazy Islands, 464
Head Bay, 353
Healakaka Point, 833
Healdsburgh, 202
Hebi Sima, 892
Hecate Channel, 357
Hecate Cove, 371
Hecate Pass. aud Bay, 325,
334, 343, 347
Hecate Rock, 424
Heceta Bunk, 227
Heceta's Inlet, 216
Heda Bay, 623-24
Heeia, 847
Hekgosidi, 605
Helby Island, 329, 330, 333
Helen Point, 291, 304
Helen Reef, 782
Hele Rock, 898
Heliaghyn Bay, 538
Helmoken Island, 414, 415,
417
Helsion Island, 792
Helut Islands, 730
Helvetia, New, 153
Hemming Bay, 487
Hemslung Cove, 440
Henderson's Inlet, 262
Henderson Island, 859
Henderville Island, 707,
713
Henry Bay, 393-4
Henry, Cape, 442
Henry Island, 288, 293, 441
Henry Islands, 293
Herbert Arm, 347
Herbert Island, 898
Hernando Island, 405-6
Hermanos Islands, 116
Hermanos Rocks, 14
Hermits Islands, 777
Hermoso, Morro, 39, 147
Hermosilla, 123
Hermosa Point and Bay,
17
Hernando Island, 409
Herradura Island and Port,
35
Herron Island, 24
987
Hesquiat Harbour & Bluff
347-8
Hey Point, 482
Hicarita Island, 19
Hicaron, 17, 19
Hida ka kawa River, 617
Hielap Island, 767
Higgins Point, 452
Highest Island, 359
High Island, 766
Highfield Point, 454
Highwater Rock, 286
Hiku Sima, 602, 608, 670,
635
Hill Island, 329, 330, 335,
338, 408, 471, 666
Hill Rock Shoal, 17
Hilo, 825, 829
Hilo and Bay, 828
Hillsborough Islan:!, 885
Hime Sima, 606, 666, 673
Hinchinbrook Island, 483
Hino Misaki, 617, 619
Hino yama, 617
Hiogo, 610
Hiogo Mountains, 610
Hiogo, Port, 612
Hippa Island, 440
Hirado Id., 668, 669, 670
Hirase Rock, 673
Hira Sima, 670
Hirowatali Bay, 616
Hishiwo Bank, 677
Hi Sima, 674
Hitango Sima, 672
Hitsou, Cape, 505
Hive Rock, 621
Hoa-pin-su Island, 904
Hobart, Point, 461
Hobbs Island, 342, 347
Hodge Rock, 671
Hogan Island, 471
Hogolen Islands, 757
Ho-hoae Island, 360
Holdsworth, Mount, 417
Hole-in-the-Wall, 348
Holkham Bay, 462
Holland Island, 705
Holland Point, 322
Holy Cross Bay, 541, 514
Hoinalko River, 409, 410
Home Island, 400
Hono-ura, 667
Houdobin Bay, 519
Honduras, 56
Honolulu, 847, 849
Honoonoono, 849
Hooch River, 249
Hood Bay, 464
Hood's Canal, 218, 258
Hood's Canal and Head,
264
Hood, Mount, 242
Hood Point, 399
Hope, Town of, 380, 381
Hope Island, 422, 710
Hope Point, 401
Hopkins Point, 430
Hopper Island, 707, 714
988
INDEX.
Hoquiamts River, 247
Horino-utsi-mura Bay, 638
Hornby Island, 391, 393
Horner, Cape, 574
Horner Peak, 598
Hornet Bay, 589
Horse-shoe Bay, 299
Hoskyn Inlet, 408
Houghton, Port, 461
Hounlodgna Bay, 803
Houston Island, 283
Houston Pass, 301, 307
Houston Stewart Channel,
436
Howe, Point, 455
Howe Sound, 385, 398, 400
Howland Island, 705
Hualalai, 835
Huarari, Mount, 827
Huazoatlan, 84
Hudson Island, 300
Hudson l'oint, 257
Hueneme Point, 161
Hugh, Point, 462
Hugon, Cape, 587
Huko Sima, 671
Hulah Rocks, 275
Hull Island, 416
Humboldt Bay, 207, 779
Hummock Island, 900
Hump Island, 781
Humtolape River, 247
Hungry Rock, 675
Hunter Island, 731
Hunter Reef, 769
Hunt Point, 431
Hurd's Island, 710
Hurst Island, 423
Hurtado Point, 405
Hyacinthe Bay, 408
Hyakfukung, 607
lanthy Shoal, 763
Ibargoitia Island, 761
Ibesso, 659
Ibbetson Islands, 722
Ibbetson, Cape, 431, 443
Icacos Point, 52
Ichey Island, 899
Ichiokashinden, 612
Icy Bay, 479
Icy Ocean, 499
Idol Island, 301
Idragne River, 34
Idsu, Cape, 633, 636
Idsu Peninsula, 594, 622,
632
Ifalik Islands, 763
Igama Bay, 665
Iguana Island, 16
Igatskoy Bay, 495
Ighakchi Bay, 495
Igna-look Island, 530
Iguana Point, 9
Ikatok Island, 504
Ikatun Island, 504
Iki Island, 665, 667
Ikop Island, 759
Ikutski Island, 668
Ilenao, 13
Işiaminsk Peak, 491
Ilibe Saki, 617, 618
Ilic, 801
Ilic Bay, 802
Illak Island, 515
Illinois River, 212
Illuluk Bay and Port, 508
Ilpinsk, Cape, 550
Ilpinskoi, Cape, 547, 552
Imak Island, 518
Imari Bay, 668
Imillis Island, 775
Imoshiri Island, 654
Imperial, Port, 581
Imperieuse Bluff, 638
Inago Mountain, 799
Inaki Sima, 609
Ina Minato, 667
Indian Island, 208, 309,
345, 422
Indian Point, 286
Ingakoadak Bay, 509
Ingersoll Patches, 897
Ingersoll Rocks, 892
Inglese, Morro, 128
Inglis Rocks, Lady, 621
Ingoda River, 584
Ino Sima Mountain, 637
In Sima, 607
Inskip Channel, 441
Inskip Islands, 320
Inskip Rocks, 320
Intrusa Island, 24
Intrusa Rock, 23
Invincible Point, 133, 439
Irako-saki, 621
Irons Shoal, 761
Iro-o Saki, 633
Isabel Island, 112
Isabel, Mount, 142
Isabella Reef, 754
Isaki, 604
Isaki Point, 618
Isalco Volcano, 3, 70-1
Isanotskoy, Strait of, 504,
518
Isima, 615
Island, The, 157
Island Cove, 345
Island Harbour, 335-6
Islands, Bay of, 467
Islet Point, 589
Islotes Group, 32
Ismenai and Bay, 556, 558
Isonusu, 661
Issannakh Mountains, 506
Istapa, 3, 30, 69, 72-3
Istmo, Islas del, 6
Isumi Strait, 610, 613, 616,
619
Isumi nada, 601, 610
Isumo saki, 619, 620
Itobasco, 65
Itopango Lake, 66
Itsha River, 568
Itshinsk, 569
Itsino Sima, 619
Itsive Misaki, 618, 619
Ittigran Island, 539, 540
Iturbide, 2
Iturup Island, 562, 566
Iwama Sima, 605
Iwogo Sima, 891
Iwo Sima, 673, 677, 679,
894
Iyo, Cape, 608
Iyo nada, 601, 606
Izenbek and Bay, 518
Iztapan, 73
Jabali, Cape, 20
Jabwat Island, 729
Jackson Point, 528
Jacobi Island, 467
Jaluit Islands, 730, 731
James Bay, 304
James, Cape, 422
James Island, 275, 294-5
James Point, 298
Jane Island, 753, 791
Japan (Winds), 921
Japan, Climate, &c., 594
Japan, Inland Sea of, 601
Japan, S.E. Coast, 635
Japanese Archipelago, 593,
687
Japanese Current, 687
Jardines, Los, 793
Jarvis Island, 697
Jeannette Island, 630
Jecoits or Jekoits Island,
746, 749
Jefferson Point, 259
Jemmy Jones Islet, 326
Jemo Island, 724
Jenkins Island, 401
Jennis Point, 278, 281
Jequepa Point, 96
Jerabout Island, 892
Jervis Inlet, 402, 404, 409
Jesso Island, 562, 653
Jesso Island and Strait, 567
Jiboa River, 66
Jijiginsk, Fort, 569
Jiquilisco, 64
Joann Bogosloff Island, 510
Jobie Island, 780
John Begg Rock, 168
John, Port, 428
John's Island, 291
John's River, 246
Johnstone Strait, 413, 414
Johnstone Reef, 289
Johnston Islands, 790
Johnston Rock, 615
Joka Sima, 638, 675
Jonas Island, 572
Jones Island, 279, 295
Jonquiere Bay, 574, 583
Joquoits Island, 749
Jordan River, 317
Jorvaco River, 125
Jorullo Volcan de, 97
Joupanoff Volcano, 554
Juan de Fuca Strait, 251,
315, 316
Juanilla Island, 42
Juan Rodriguez Island, 170,
171
Juchitan, 83
Juco Point, 25
Judas, Cape, 142
Julia Island, 306
Julie Island, 891
Julo Island, 895
Junction Passage, 335
Junction Point, 406
Junk Harbour, 898
Kaalaea, 847
Kabahala Island, 728
Kaba Sima, 668, 671, 674
Kabasima Bay, 680
Kabuto yama, 664
Kadoolawe, 844
Kado Sima, 665
Kadsusa Bay, 644
Kadzitori Point, 606, 608
Kaegalak, 531
Kaena, Cape, 846
Kaena Point, 848
Kagai Island, 502
Kagara, 667
Kageno, 675
Kagosima and Gulf, 599
Kagu Channel, 671
Kahiki, Cape, 841
Kah-la-wat-set River, 227
Kahoolawe Kahulaui,
844
or
Kaigan Harbour, 458
Kailau and District, 836
Kakaua Bay, 847
Kakhvalga Island, 515
Kakisaki, 634
Kakooa, 838
Kalakhtyrka River, 555
Kaleghta, Cape and Bay,
508-7
Kalishka, 527
Kaluaaha, 845
Kalulak River, 521
Kama Islands, 766
Kamalaea Bay, 843
Kamennaia Pristan, 527
Kamennoi, Cape, 526
Kame ura Harbour, 681
Kamida Creek, 649
Kami Idzumi, 667
Kaminoi, 569
Kaminone Islet, 893
Kamino Kosiko, 681
Kaminoseki, 606
Kamino Sima, 675
Kamoda-saki, 615
Kamome Sima, 681
Kamchatka, 561, 920
Kamchatka Peninsula, 547,
550
Kamchatka River, 551,
553
Kamchatka, Sea of, 518
Kantchatskoi, Cape, 553
Kauaga Island, 514
INDEX.
Kanagawa, 641
Kanakiki, 828
Kanawa Rock, 628
Kanaya Point, 633, 644
Kaneda Bay, 640
Kanega saki, 666
Kaneohe, 847
Kanoote, 846
Kanghynin Bay, 545
Kanon saki, 639, 640, 641,
642
Kansane yama, 617
Kanziu Island, 604
Kaouai River, 230
Kapaho Point, 828
Kapenoar Island, 751
Kapenuare Island, 751
Kapoho Point, 840
Karaga River, 552
Karaghinskaia Bay, 552
Karaghinsky Island, 551
Karakakooa District & Bay,
837
Karamo Islands, 616
Karasuka Island, 599
Kareki Island, 686
Karlouk, 496
Kasato Island, 606
Kassatotchy Island, 513
Kata, 614
Kata Island, 761
Katalamet Mountains, 240
Katelina Island, 751
Kater Island, 879, 880
Katona Sima, 894
Katsura saki, 666
Kattou Island, 773
Katzmota ura, 667
Kauai or Kaui Island, 823,
824
Kau District, 825, 839
Kaula Island, 856
Kaulaka Passage, 855
Kawaihae and Bay, 825,
834
Kawailoa Bay, 847
Kawa Saki, 642
Kawatch, 670
Kawatchi, 686
Kaye Island, 482
Kealaikahiki Shoal, 844
Kealakekua District & Bay,
836
Keats Island, 400
Kellett Bluff, 288, 293
Kellett Island and Ledge,
275
Kelly Island, 886
Kelp Bar, 395
Kelp Bay, 329
Kelp Island, 340
Kelp Reefs, 287-8
Kenay Bay, 919
Kenay Peninsula, 489
Kendrick Arm, 351
Kendrick Island, 890
Kennedy Island, 441
Keppel, Cape, 298
989
Keraghinsky Island, Little,
Kerama Islands, 895, 897
Ketchechnoi, 509
Ketoy Island, 565
Keyhole, The, 184
Khabaroff, Cape, 573
Khalnetkin, Cape, 538
Kharamukotan Island, 564
Khilap Island, 767
Khing-khan Mountains, 584
Khitroff, Cape, 548
Khramtschenko Bay, 521
Kibatsu Bay, 676
Kibune Point, 603
Kidd Island, 879
Kidd or Plymouth Id., 885
Kigalga Island, 506
Kikai Sima, 894
Kiku Strait, 459
Kilauea, Mount, 825, 828
Kili Island, 731
Killiliak Bay, 508
Kiloudenskoy Bay, 496
Kiluden Bay, 496
Kiludenskoy Bay, 496
King, Cape, 546, 645
King George Archipelago,
469
King George's Sound, 348
Kinghorn Island, 406
King Island, 329, 333, 427,
428, 527
King Islands, 290
Kingman Reef, 703
Kingsmill Islands, 707
Kingsmill Point, 459
King William, Cape, 778
Kio Sima, 607
Kiraueah Volcano, 828
Kirilovskaia Bay, 515
Kirime yama, 617
Kishu Ngawa River, 612
Kishungawa River, 611
Kisi Post, 585
Kiska Island, 504, 516
Kitagotagh Island, 503
Kitenamagan Island, 504
Kithouk, Cape, 505
Kiti District, 745
Kiti River, 748
Kittlitz Point, 746
Kiuniutanany Island, 502
Kiusiu Island, 597
Kiusiu Strait, 666
Klaholoh Rock, 254
Klamath River, 211
Klaproth Point, 587
Klaskino Inlet, 365
Klaskish Inlet, 365
Kliavakhan, 458
Kliuchevsk, 554
Klokacheva Sound, 469
Klokatcheff, Cape, 575
Klooqueh Rock, 223
Kloster-camp, 582
Klutchevskoi Volcano, 512,
551, 553, 554
990
INDEX.
Klutchi, 554
Knapp Island, 295
Knight Inlet, 416
Knight Island, 478, 486
Kuocker Rocks, 13
Knorr Island, 881
Knox Bay, 414
Knoy Island, 707, 715
Ko-adjiro Bay, 638
Koarra District, 835
Koassoff Island, 572
Kobe Bay and Point, 612
Kodiak, 446, 496
Kodiak Archipelago, 493,
494
Kodiak Island, 919
Kodo-kopuei Island, 784
Kodota-yama, 660
Kodsine Island, 628
Ko-futakami Rock, 668
Kohala and District, 834
Kohebi Sima, 892
Koikla Point, 253
Koko Sima, 602
Kok-shittle Arm, 361
Kokura and Ledge, 603
Koloa Point, 853
Kolo Point, 853
Koloschensk Archipelago,
449
Kolui Point, 836
Komandorski Islands, 548
Komox District, 393
Konabuse Rock, 604
Kona District, 836
Kona Peak, 853
Kongelab Islands, 726
Kongotes, 428
Kongouan, Cape, 540
Köning Willem III. Island,
629
Konniaga Island, 514
Konohaunui
846
Koolau, 847
Mountains,
Koosilvac River, 523
Koos River, Bay, and Head
224-5
Koprino Harbour, 370-1
Korack Islands, 772
Korai Strait, 597
Korea Strait, 665, 684
Korovinskaia, Cape & Bay,
513
Korovinskaia Harbour, 513
Korovinskoi Volcano, 512
Korsakov Islands, 588
Kosaka Channel, 671
Kosedo, 676
Kosiki Islands, 681
Ko-sima, 608, 652, 656
Kosime no oo sima, 665
Kossol Island, 773
Kosii, 606
Kosu Sima, 626
Kotaka Island, 607
Kotako Sima, 673
Kotovy Islands, 533
Kotsi Inlet, 601
Kotsu Sima, 665
Kotzbomura, 638
Kou Island, 456
Kougalga Island, 505-6
Kougounan, Cape, 539
Kouivaem River, 543
Kourakong Island, 775
Kouro Saki, 614
Kouskoquim River, 522
Koutchougoumut, 520
Koutouzoff, Cape, 519
Koutznou, 464
Kouzmichtcheff, Cape, 552
Kowrooa Point, 836
Kowrowra, 838
Koyaki Island, 673, 675,
677
Koza-gawa, 620
Krachenninikoff, Cape, 552
Krafto River, 573
Krenitzin Bay, 504
Krenitzen, Cape, 564
Krenitzin Islands, 506
Krenitzin Point, 518
Kritskoi Island, 518, 519
Krleougoun, Cape, 536
Kronotskoi, Cape, 554
Kronotskoi Volcano, 554
Krusenstern Cove, 545
Krusenstern Island, 530
Krusenstern Islands, 724
Krusenstern Rock, 874
Kruzoff Island, 467, 472
Kryci Islands, 505, 515
Kii Channel, 601, 610, 614
Kuchtui River, 570
Kudaka Island, 899
Kudsi Island, 608
Kuegdogh Island, 503
Kuga Channel, 671
Kuhushan Point, 397
Kui Island, 898
Ku-kien-san Islands, 900
Kula District, 841
Kulauloa District, 846
Kumi Head, 897
Kumi Island, 899
Kuminasi sima, 606
Kuna Siri Island, 567
Kunashiri Island, 562, 567
Kuper Island, 300, 301, 306,
309
Kuper, Port, 441
Kuprianoff Island, 456
Kura Sima, 616
Kuria Island, 710, 714
Kurile Archipelago, 550,
562
-
Ku-ri-mah Island, 900
Kuro-ko Sima, 686
Kurose Rocks, 674
Kurosegawa, 687
Kuro Sima, 670, 892
Kuro Siwo Current, 597,
687
Kusaie Island, 719, 739, 741
Kusa-kaki, 682
Kusaya, 666
Kushnon, 464
Kusimoto, 620
Kusi Saki, 604
Kuskowime River, 521
Kutsnose Rock, 674
Kutsino Sima, 892
Kutusoff Cape and Bay,
656
Kutusoff Islands, 725
Kvichak River, 521
Kwadelen Islands, 728
Kwajalein Islands, 728
Kwich-pak River, 523
Kyangle Islands, 772
Kyghynin, Cape, 540
Kyli Islands, 730
Kylo Island, 775
Kynkai Island, 541
Kyuquot Sound & Channel,
359, 362
Kyoko Island, 899
Kysi Lake, 582
Lachsforellen Bay, 577
Ladrone Islands, 28, 708,
785, 793
Ladrone Islands, Climate,
796
Ladrone
923
Islands, Winds,
Lady Blackwood Pass., 75S
Lae Islands, 729
Lagediak Strait, 724
Laguna Grande, Punta del,
87
Laguna Grande, Morro de la
ᏭᏮ
Laguna Point, 161
Lahaina, 825, 842
Lajas River, 46
La Libertad, 130
Lalo Point, 807
Lambert Channel, 391, 393,
395
Lambert Islands, 730
Lambert, Point, 431
Lamoliaour Islands, West,
769
Lamoliork Islands, 769
Lamotrek Island, 762
Lampa River, 65
Lanai Island, 844
Lane Cane Mountain, 363
Langaligaraile Island, 765
Langford, Port, 355
Langley, 381
Langley, New, 384
Lanz Island, 425
Laomira Island, 875
La Paz Bank, 761
La Paz and Bay, 137
La Paz Bay, 80
Lapelin Rocks, 852
La Playa, 157
La Playeta de Chiguirin, 62
Larkins Reef, 754
Larne Rocks, 892
Lasan Rys Island, 866
Laskar Island and Reef,
866
Lasqueti Island, 391, 401
Lassiano Island, 866
Lassion Island, 865
Latouche Island, 486
Latouche Point, 478
Latsop River, 247
Laupahoi, 833
Laura Point, 305
Lauretaneo, Mar, 122
Lausen Point, 158
Lavandera Rock, 26
Lavenia, Rio, 21
La Ventoza, Morro of, 84
Lavinia Point, 469
Lawn Point, 367
Lawrence Islands, 343
Lawrence Point, 276, 285
Lawson Bluff, 281
Lawson Rock, 283
Laxa Rock, 115
Laxman Bay, 654
Laysan Island, 864
Lazaref, Cape, 580, 584, 586.
Lazaro, Cape, 144
Lazo, Cape, 391, 296
Leadbetter Point, 242
Leading Bluff, 330, 333,
335
Leading Cone, 366
Lealu Hill, 850
Leading-in-Cliff, 241
Leading Island, 360, 362
Leading Mountain, 357
Leading Point, 325, 341
Lebedevski Islands, 533
L'Echiquier Islands, 776
Ledge Point, 417, 418
Ledianaya River, 543
Leech Island, 309
Lee Rock, 324
Lees, Point, 451
Legamo Bay, 20
Legarde Rock, 859
Legiep Islands, 724
Lehua Island, 856
Lelé, Port, 741
Leleiwi Point, 829
Lemon Mountain, 421
Lemon Point, 8
Lempa River, 3, 63, 65, 66
Lenartes Islands, 28
Lengua Point, 142
Leon, 43
Leonard Island, 342
Leon Lake, 3, 48, 49
Leones Island, 17
Leontovitch, Cape, 518
Leskoff, Cape, 518
Lesseps, Cape, 582
Lewis Channel, 406
Lewis Reef, 324
Lexington Reef, 897
Lialiuskigh, 503
Liberia, 29
Libertad, Port, 2, 3, 63, 64,
66
Lib Island, 730
Liddel Point, 302, 304-5
Likieb Islands, 724
INDEX.
Lileb Island, 728
Lilovet Lakes, 404
Limantour Estero de, 196,
199
Limestone Island, 371, 413
Lime Point Bluff, 187, 189
Limestone Point, 333
Linda Rock, 888
Lindsay Island, 816
Lindsay, Port, 668
Linekinskoy, Cape, 573
Linglingai Mountain, 545
Linnez Islands, 732
Linschoten Islands, 892
Lisiansky Island, 865
Little Goat Island, 884
Little Group, The, 295
Little Hat Rock, 134
Livingston Island, 759
Lizard Point, 97, 98
Llorona Pta., 33
Lloretto, 135
Lloyd, Port, 879, 882
Lobos Island, 134, 875
Lobos Point, 126, 175, 185
Lod Harbour, 749
Loffzoff Cape, 567
Logo River, 641
Log Point, 370
Loma, Point, 151, 156, 157
Lone Cone, 343, 347
Long Bay, 341
Long Harbour, 303
Long Island, 245, 281, 777,
781
Longounor Island, 756
Loo-choo Islands, 893
Lookout Cape, 218, 229, 231
Lookout Island, 362-3
Lopatka, Cape, 551, 561, 568
Lopez Island, 267, 273, 274,
281
Lopez Island and Sound,
282
Lord Island, 355
Lord North Island, 782, 784
Lorenzo Point, 6
Loreto, 135, 153
Loreto, Gulf or Sea of, 122
Losap Island, 755
Los Martires Island, 760
Los Remedios, 24
Lottin Island, 777
Lottin, Port, 740
Lot's Wife Rock, 630
Louasappe Island, 755
Louisa, Cape, 657, 664
Louiscoon, 443
Louis, Port, 587-8
Lowenorn, Cape, 577
Löwenstern, Cape, 575
Low, Cape, 581
Low Island, 284, 288, 295,
646
Low Peninsula, 342
Low Point, 242
Low Table Point, 590
Low Woody Islands, 697
Lucan Point, 469
991
Lu-chu, Great, 898
Lu-chu Islands, 687, 893
Ludlow, Port, 264
Lugren, 538
Luis Harbour, 797
Luké Point, 592
Lukunor Island, 755
Luminan Reefs, 800
Lummi Island, 269, 276
Lungar Point, 746
Luta Island, 803
Lütke, Cape, 505
Lütke Island, 759
Lyall Harbour, 290
Lyall Point, 339
Lydia Island, 762
Lydia Islands, 728
Lynn Canal, 461, 465
Lyons River, 589
Lyre River, 254
Ly Hon, City of, 381
Macapule River, 124
Macarius Island, 531
Macartney Point, 460
MacAskill Islands, 742
Macauley Point, 322
Macedonia Reef, 637-8
Machaguista, 85
Mackaw Reef, 741
Mackenzie Islands, 766
Mackenzie Point, 492
Mackerrey, 843
MacLaughlin Point, 322
Macnamara Point, 455
Macroon Hill, 439
Madan Point, 454
Mad River, 209
Madara Sima, 668
Madeira Volcano, 45
Madera, 48
Madison, Port, 259
Madre Sierra, 71, 83
Magdalena, 105
Magdalena Bay and Gulf,
141
Magdalena Islands, 143
Maghyr Island, 760
Maghyrarik Island, 760
Magicienne Bay, 8, 809
Maglares Point, 135
Magnetic Island, 22, 24
MAGNETIC VARIATION, 952
Mahilone Hill, 803
Maiana Island, 715
Majaguay Island, 9
Ma uro Island, 721
Makahanaloa Point, 829
Makanruru Island, 565
Makapua Cape, 846
Makin Island, 708, 717
Makouchinskoy Bay, 508
Makua Bay, 847
Malabrigos Islands, 877
Mala, Cape, 6, 16
Malackan Island, Peak, and
Harbour, 773-4
Mala de los Indios, Pta, 34
992
INDEX.
Mala Point, 34, 41
Mala, Punta, 912
Malaspina Cape, 656
Malaspina, Strait and Inlet,
391, 401, 402, 405
Malay, Cape, 16
Malcolm Island, 417, 418
Malcone's Island, 791
Malden Island, 699
Malksope Inlet, 363
Malloon's Island, 791
Malmesbury, Port, 459
Maloelab Islands, 722
Malpelo Island, 694
Malte Brun Point, 587
Mamori, Cape, 781
Managasa Island, 808
Managua, Lake, 3, 48
Manaita Rocks, 603, 605
Mana Point, 853-4
Mana-souari Island, 781
Manati, Cape, 548
Manatsuru Promontory, 632
Manby Point, 479
Manchuria, Coast of, 580,
586
Mandarin Bluff, 641
Mangles Road and Point,
135
Mang Oosaki, 614
Mangrove Bluff, 97
Mangrove Island, 142
Mangue Island, 9
Manguera Island, 57
Manjas Islands, 814
Mannaijeu Bank, 760
Man-of-War Rock, 863
Mantapeti Rocks, 746
Mants Rocks, 746
Manuel Antonio Island, 34
Manuel Rodriguez Reef, 793
Manzana Island, 55
Manzanilla and Bay, 98, 99,
100
Manzanilla, White Island
of, 101
Manziu Island, 604
Maple Bay, 299
Maple Point, 393
Maquinna Point, 351
Marabios Mountains, 49
Maraki Island, 716
Mararet Islands, 877
Marcus Island, 876
Margaret Islands, 877
Margaretta Islands, 729
Margarita Islands, 143
Maria, Cape, 574
Maria de Aome River, 125
Maria Island, 711
Maria Laxara Island, 859
Maria Madre Island, 105
Mariana Islands, 736, 785,
793
Marias, Tres, 104, 107
Mariato Point, 17
Mariere Island, 783
Marietas Islands, Las, 104
Mariensk Post, 585
Maritch River, 539
Mark Hill, 355
Mark Island, 329, 334, 338
Maro Reef, 863
Mar, Piedra de, 106
Marques Port, 93, 96
Marrowstone Point, 257
Marsden, Point, 464
Marsden, Port, 468
Marshall Archipelago, 694,
708, 718, 733, 877
Marshall Island, 707, 716
Marshall Point, 402, 405
Marsh Reef, 894
Martin Island, 403
Maru-yama Point, 619
Marvinas Bay, 351-2
Mary Basin, 355
Mary Island, 407, 409
Masachapa, 47
Masapa, 47
Ma-sima, 608
Maskleyne Point, 432, 434
Masmapi, 781
Massacre Bay, 286, 516
Massachusetts Island, 866
Masset Harbour, 439
Masui Sima, 602
Matanchel, 104
Matapalo Point, 30, 31, 33
Mataua Island, 564
Matelotas Islands, 769
Matia Island, 277, 281
Matilda Cove, 346
Matoya Harbour, 621
Matsmai, 648, 656
Mats Sima, 675
Matsu Island, 607
Matsumae, 656
Matsumae, Cape, 651
Matsu Saki, 659
Matsuyker, Cape, 654
Matterer Bay, 779
Matthew Island, 707, 716
Mattole River, 206
Matty Island, 777
Matui-osaki, 662
Matvoi Island, 531
Maud Island, 412
Maude Island, 391
Maui Island, 819, 840
Mauna Hualali, 827
Mauna Haleakala, 841
Mauna Kea Mountain, 827
Mauna Loa Mountain, 825,
827
Mauna o Eeka, 841
Maury Passage, 282, 283
May, Port, 589
Mayor Channel, 324
Mayo, Rio del, 126
Mayne Bay, 339
Mayne Island, 290, 302
Mazatlan, 81, 112, 138
McDonald's Creek, 206
McKaye Harbour, 281
McKay Reef, 342
McLeod Harbour, 487
McLoughlin, Fort, 429
McNeil Bay, 323
McNeil Island, 263
McNeill, Port, 417
Meaburn Island, 754
Meac Sima Group, 682
Meares, Cape, 230
Meares Island, 343
Meares, Port, 458
Meares Reef, 888
Medidor Island, 20, 21
Medny Island, 549
Meduro Island, 721
Meetchken, Cape, 544
Megami Point, 676
Meiaco-sima, 687, 899
Meiggsville, 205
Meinghyngai Mountain, 540,
Mejima, 662
Mejit Island, 724
Mela Ledge, 643
Mela Point and Ledge, 639
Mellish Bank, 875
Melones Island, 15
Melville, Port, 898
Momoyah, 646
Menchikoff, Cape, 520
Mendocino Bay, City, and
Cape, 204-206
Mendocino, Cape, 152, 175
Menshikof, Cape, 584
Menzies Bay, 412
Menzies Point, 427
Merat Island, 779
Mercenarios Bay, 135
Merizo Harbour, 798
Mertens, Cape, 539, 540
Mertens Monument, 739
Mesa de Roldan, 55
Mesa, La, 818
Mesas de Juan de Gomez,
150
Mesas de Narvaes, Las, 141
Me Sima, 682
Mesurier Point, 453, 482
Metalanien Harbour, 743
Metatchingui Mountain, 545
Metchigm, 538
Mexico, West Coast, 78, 914
Miadi Island, 724
Miaki Island, 626, 627, 671
Michael Leymour Point, 590
Michaelovski Fort, 524
Michatoyat or Michitoya
River, 73
Micronesia, 708
Middlebrook Islands, 869
Middle Channel,
Strait, 277
Middle Reef, 356
Midway Islands, 869
Mieco, 610
Miga Point, 40, 41
Mihara, 607
Mikasa, 673
Rosario
Mikawa Bay, 621
Mikomoto Island, 633
Mikumi, and Roads, 662
Mikura Island, 627
Milbank Sound, 428
-
Mile Rocks, 185
Mile Rock Breaker, 364
Miles Cone, 421
Mili Island, 720
Mille Islands, 720
Minage Point, 676, 679
Minasi, 606
Minatitlan, 84
Minato Mountains, 659
Mine Chimney, 389
Miners Bay, 305
Miners Channel, 295
Mingan Rock, 587
Mino Sima, 664
Minotye Bay, 615
Minto Breakers, 754
Minx Reef, 290
Mioga, 620
Mioga Sima, 619
Miogani-yama
633, 644
Mountain,
Mira Island, La, 875
Miramontes Point, 180, 181
Mira-por-vos, 817
Misaki, and Bay, 680
Misama Nada, 601, 606
Mississippi Bay, 641
Misana Island, 635
Misipi Island, 789
Mistaken Island, 393
Misumi Harbour, 665
Mitake Island, 627
Mitalanien Harbour, 750
Mita Point, 104
Mitarai, 607
Mitazidi, 606
Mitchell Bay, 418
Mitchell Harbour, 441
Mitchell Island, 706
Mitchell, Point, 455
Mitchigmensk Bay, 536, 538
Mitkoff, Cape, 518
Mitsuna Island, 900
Mittlenatch Island, 397, 398,
409
Mitzuse Rocks, 674
Miya Saki, 616
Moai Island, 763
Modoo-papappa Island, 856
Moduenete Rock, 845
Modu-manu, 856
Moffet, Cape, 518
Moffat Rock, 419
Mogate, 47
Mogi Bay, 680
Mogmog Island, 766
Moira Sound, 453
Mokapu Peninsula, 846
Moke-tas Island, 361
Mikil Islands, 742
Mokor Islands, 757
Molejé Bay, 135
Molejé River, 134
Molexe, 127
Moller Bay, 519
Moller Island, 864
Molokai Island, 826, 845
Molokini Rock, 844
Moluilui Bay, 847
INDEX.
Momobacho, 45
Momobacho Volcano, 47
Momotom bita, 50
Momotombo, 49
Mona Island, 26
Monarch Head, 290
Monday Shoal, 370
Mongs Islands, 814
Monita Bay, 21
Monita Island, 26
Monjes, Los, 818
Monjos Islands, Los, 776
Monk's Gate, 13
Monks Islands, 776
Monkonrushy Island, 562
Monneron Island, 579
Montague Channel, 399
Montague Harbour, 306
Montague Island, 131
Montagu Island, 483, 487
Monterey and Bay, 176, 182
Monte Santo Mountain, 744
Monteverde Islands, 752
Montgomery Group, 898
Monitas Islands, 26
Montijo Bay, 17
Montserrate, 136
Montuosa, 28
Moody, Port, 384–386
Moore Channel, 442
Moore Island, 772
Morai, Cape, 713
Mordvinoff, Cape, 506
Mordwinoff Bay, 577
Moresby Island, 296, 436
Moresby Passage, 296
Moresby Passage & Islands,
289
Morjovi Island, 531, 532,
534
Morjovskoi, 518
Moroisi Reef, 638
Morokini Rock, 844
Morotoi Island, 845
Morotzu, Cape, 602
Moro Yosi Harbour, 667
Morrell Island, 874
Morrison Rocks, 892
Morro Point, 83
Morrotinnee Rock, 844
Morse Island, 292, 294, 531
Morses Island, 534
Mortlock Islands, 755, 757
Mosi Saki, 6J4
Mosquito Harbour, 344
Mosquito River, 590
Mosquito Passage, 293-4
Moto Island, 608
Motogozen Island, 764
Moto Yama, 606
Mouatt Reef, 323
Mouatt Point, 304
Mougoul Island, 742
Moule Bay, 587
Mourileu Islands, 758-9
Mowee Island, 840
Muchalet Arm, 353
Mudge, Cape, 391, 397, 408,
411
Mudge Island, 310
Muela Island, 21
Muertos Island, 27
Mugu Point, 160, 161
Muko Sima, 607
993
Mulgrave Islands, 720, 731,
742
Mulgrave, Port, 477
Mullins Island, 336
Muloffsky, Cape, 576
Multnomah River, 230
Mumenoki, 675
Murakame, 609
Muravief Armursky Pro-
montory, 589
Murcielagos Islands, 41
Murray, Cape, 443
Musoir Rock, 587
Musquillo Islands, 730
Mussel Canal, 429
Mussel Point, 647
Mussel Rock, 343
Mutine Point, 331
Mutiny Bay, 258
Mutok Island, 746
Mutokaloj Rock, 746
Mutsu Sima, 608
Muzon, Cape, 458
Myadsu, 663
Mysory Island, 780
Mystery Rock, 405
Naa Island, 750
Nacaome River, 56
Nacascolo, Port, 46
Nadeegsda Island, 566
Naden Sound, 440
Nadeshda Bay, 574
Nadiejeda Bay, 574
Nadiejda, Cape, 651, 655
Nadiejda Rocks, 681
Nadiejda Strait, 564
Nagasaki, 670, 673, 679, 683,
685
Nagano Sima, 674
Nagasaki, and Harbour, 676,
677
Nagasaki Peninsula, East
Coast, 680
Nagasaki Peninsula, West
Coast, 675
Nagato Province, 664
Nagay Island, 502
Naginato Rock, 675
Naguiscola, Port, 46
Naguh, 898
Nahmint Bay, 332
Nahwitti Bar, 420, 422
Naiad Islands, 751
Najassee Bay and River,
583
Nakase Rock, 614
Naka Sima, 614, 893
Nakko Head, 579
Naknek River, 520
Nakosi, 666
Naku Harbour, 599
Nalan Island, 741
Nalap Island, 748
North Pacific.
3 T
994
INDEX.
Nalatcheff, Cape, 555
Namarik Islands, 731
Namaur Island, 748
Nambu, Cape, 645, 647, 652
Nami-kiri-saki, 621
Namo Islands, 729
Namoliaour Island, 762
Namolipiafane Island, 759
Namoluk Islands, 757
Namouïne Island, 759
Namonuito Island, 759
Namou Island, 728
Namourousse Island, 758
Namouttek Island, 762
Namureck Island, 731
Namurrek Island, 762
Nanek River, 520
Nanimak Island, 503
Nanaimo, 299, 306
Nanaimo and Harbour, 388
Nanaimoo Pass, 378
Nanao, 661
Nanavalie, S28
Nanooze Harbour and Hill,
391
Nanouantoughat Lake, 497,
520
Nanouki Island, 713
Nanouti, 713
Nanow, 661
Napha, 898
Napha Kiang Road, 895,
897
Napoleon Gulf, 589
Napoleon Road, 587
Naranjas Island, 17
Naranjos Islands, 34
Naranjo Point, 34
Narrowgut Creek, 360
Narrow Island, 307
Norrow Islands, 352
Narrows, The, 332, 385
Naru Channel, 671
Naruto Passage, 610, 614
Narusi Rock, 603, 605
Naru Sima, 671
Na Saki Island, 682
Nasal River, 245
Nash Bank, 396
Na Sima, 667
Nasparti Inlet, 364
Nass Bay, 434
Nass River, 434
Nata, 10
Nat-a-hats Lagoon, 230
Nathan, Cape, 43
Natividad, 147
Native Point, 308
Natsungu Saki, 664
Nautilus Rock, 889
Nautilus Shoal, 711
Navarin, Cape, 546
Navidad Bay and Head, 99,
100-1, 104
Navidad Rock, 101
Navy Channel, 291
Nawoda Island, 717
Neavas Island, 866
Nechesne River, 229
Necker Island, 860
Neck Point, 284
Necomanche River, 245
Ned's Rocks, 247
Neé-ah Bay, 224, 249, 252
Needle Mountain, 554
Needle Rock, 356
Neegtchan, Cape, 539, 540
Negada Point, 17
Negrito Bluff, 22
Negritos Islands, 37, 60
Nehalem River, 230
Nekas River, 229
Nelson Island, 403-4
Nelson Point, 450
Nemoro, Port, 654
Nepean Point, 460
Nepean Sound, 430
Neprop Island, 473
Nesbitt Point, 455
Nestuggah River, 229
Nettle Island, 336
Neuskah'l, 247
Neva Channel, 467
Neva River, 576
Neva Shoal and Island, 865,
866
Nevarro River, 204
Neville Island, 784
Neville, Port, 415
New Aberdeen, 428
New Albion, 153
New Archangel, 446
New Baldayo Island, 789
New Bank, 370
Newcastle Island, 312, 389
New Channel, 423
New Cornwall, 376
Newenham, Cape, 520-1
New Granada, Coast of, 5
New Hanover, 376
New Harbour, 773
New Island, 789, 859, 866
Newmarket, 262
New Market Island, 706
New Nantucket Island, 703
New Point, 247
New Westminster, 382-3
New Year Island, 724
New York Island, 701
Nezumi Sima, 608
Nezu Sima, 608
Ngaryk Islands, 752
Ngatik Islands, 752
Ngoli Islands, 769
Niaur Island, 775
Nicaragua, and Lake, 3, 43,
47, 49
Nicoya Gulf, 29, 35, 37
Niegata, 659
Nielee Creek, 230
Nigo Point, 802
Nihoa Island, 856
Nii Sima, 626
Niihau Island, 822, 855
Nikla, Cape, 572
Nikolaevsk, 585
Nikolskoi, 513
Nile Rock, 403
Nile Shoal, 763
Nimpkish Bank, 418
Nimpkish River, 417
Ninepin Rock, 588
Ninirlioun, Cape, 543, 544
Ninmolchou Reef, 740
Nipon Island, 596, 616
Nipon, East Coast, 645
Nipon, West Coast, 657
Nipple Hill, 148
Nisi Sima, 664
Nisqually, 218, 262, 263
Nitinat Lake, 328
Nizumi Sima, 676
Nob Point, 281, 330, 366
Nodales Canal, 413
Noel, Port, 723
Nogowino Sima, 606
Noisak, Cape, 506
Nokona, 606
No-ko-no Sima, 666
Noma Sima, 615
Nomi, 600
Nomo, Cape, 680
Nomo Rock, 675
Nomo Saki, 673-4
Nomo Ura Harbour, 675
Nomoyama Point, 674
Noo-narbook Island, 530
Noonday Rock, 199
Nootka Island, 354
Nootka Sound, 215, 315, 348,
350, 919
No Point, 259
Norfolk Bay, 920
Norfolk Sound, 472
Norman Point, 396
Norris Rock, 396
North Bay, 247, 278
North Bay Reef, 618
North Bay, Saghalin, 574
North Channel, 345
North Island, 496
North Reef, 308
Northumberland, Cape, 452
Northumberland Channel,
310, 390
Norton Sound, 523
Nose Peak, 368
No Sima, 643, 675
Nosima Reef, 617
Nosima Point, 632, 639
Nosovskoi Volcano, 506
Nossyam, Cape, 654
Nossyab, Cape, 579, 657
Notched Hill, 391
Notch Island, 602
Noto, Cape, 660, 661
Notoro, Cape, 577
Notsky, Port, 654
Nouchagak River, 521
Nougouore Islands, 752
Noumagmo, Cape, 536
Nouneangan Island, 541
Nouniagmo and Cape, 536
Noushagak River, 521
Nova Chista, 125
Novik Bay, 589
Novogorod Harbour, 587-8
Novosilzov, Cape, 656
Novy Islands, 533
Nowell Point, 486
Noyon River, 204
Nublada Island, 787
Nuchatlitz Inlet, 354
Nuchatlitz Reef, 355
Nuinak Island, 502
Nukunau Island, 710
Nukuor Islands, 752
Nulato, 523
Numukamis Bay, 329
Nuniwak Island, 522
Nut District, 745
Nuuanu Valley, 847
Nygtchygan, Cape, 538
Nye Rock, 424
Oahu Island, 819, 846
Oahu Plantation, 847
Oak Bay, 258, 324
Oak Point, 217
Oar Channel and Reef, 897
Оахаса, 84
Obispo Rock, 95
Obree Channel, 668
Obree Island, 665
Observation Cove, 102
Observation Rock, 24
Observatory Island,
370, 582, 672
343,
Observatory Island and In-
let, 332, 432, 434
Observatory Peak, 149
Observatory Point, 254
Observatory Rock 658
Observatory Rocks, 316
Obstruction Island, 346
Obstruction Island and Pas-
sages, 276, 283, 286
Ocean Islan 1, 717, 868
Ocean Islands, 728
Odawara Bay, 632, 637, 638,
643
Odia Islands, 730
Odutsi Mountain, 609
Ogami Point, 676
Ogawa Bluff, 686
Ogawa River, 603
Ogden Point, 322
Ogle Island, 893
Oglɔdak Island, 514
Oheslakee, 417
Ohiak Bay, 496
Oho Saki, 646, 673
Ohosima, 625, 652, 893
Ojima, 662
Ojo Point, 24
Okamura, 607
Okatashima, 663
Okawa Point, 659
Okebets, Cape, 566
Okhotsk, 570
Okhotsk, Sea of, 567
Oki Island, 608
Oki Islands, 664
Okinawa Sima, 895
INDEX.
Okino Islands, 663
Oki Sima, 673
Okino Sima, Mount, 600,
616
Oko Island, 599
Okosiri Island, 652, 655
Oku-Jesso River, 573
Okuno, 607
Olap Island, 760
Old Port Bay, 509
Olga Bay, 590
Olimarao Islands, 763
Olioutor River, 550
Olot Island, 723
Olutorskoi, Cape and Gulf,
547
Olympia, 263
Olympus Mountain, 218
Olympus Mountains, 248
Omae-saki, 621, 636, 642
Omaski Sima, 646
Ommaney, Cape, 459, 467
Omotepe Island, 48
Omotepec or Omotepeque
Volcano, 45, 49
Omuru Rock, 891
Onango-sima, 628
Onata Islands, 781
Onavero Island, 717
O'Neal Island, 279
Oneeheow Island, 855
One-mile Rocks, 185
One Tree Island, 422
Ougai Island, 742
Ongelukkig Eyland, 628
Onnekotan Island, 564
Onnodake Mountain, 896
Onon River, 584
Onoatoa Island, 711
Onohara, 627
Onooun Island, 760
Onooup Island, 760
Onslow Point, 453, 455
Onting, Port, 898
Onutu Island, 771
Oobiki Uura, 617
Oo-ghe-e-ak Island, 530
Ookomura Bay, 675
Oonella Island, 508
Oonge Sima, 614
Oorokoo Island, 773
Oosaka, and Gulf, 610-11
Oo Saka, Gulf of, 601
Oosaka Roads, 612
Oosima, 681
Oo-sima Island, 625
Oo-sima Harbour, 619
Oote Nizavoo, Cape, 656
Ooujak Bay, 496
Open Bay, 293, 372, 408
Opolu Point, 833
Opooroah, 848
Oraittilipou Bank, 762
Oraluk Island, 753
Orange Point, 412
Orcas Island, 273, 275, 277,
279, 281, 284-5, 379
Orcas Nob, 278
Orchard, Port, 259
Orcehoua Island, 856
Oregon City, 242
Oregon, Coast of, 215
Orford Bay, 410
Orford, Cape, 213
995
Orford Reef and Cape,
222
Orford, Port, 220-1
Ormed Island, 723
Orolong Island, 775
Orono Sima, 665, 687
Orosi, Peak of, 42
Orosi Volcano, 45
Oroté Point, 800
Oroti Point, 799
Osaki and Bay, 616
Osakiuye Island, 607
Osborn Bay, 299
Ose Saki, 672
O-sima, 607-609, 665
Osima Islands, 621
O-simi, 656
Ostrovki Islands, 533
Otakara Point, 672
Otate Island, 670
Otdia Islands, 723
Otmeloi, Cape, 575
Otoque Island, 15
Otra Island, 875
Otsisi, Cape, 583
Otsu-no-saki, 609
Otter Bay, 304
Otter Cove, 413
Otter Point, 317
Otters, Bay of, 507-8
Otters, Island of, 514
Otzuno Saki, 610
Oualan Island, 739
Ouchouganat Island, 490
Oudagagh Channel, 508
Ouda, Fort and River,
572
Oudskoi, Fort, 572
Ouektok Island, 506
Ougagouk River, 497, 501
Ougalgin Island, 508
Ougamok Island, 506
Ougatchik River, 520
Ougnagak, 503
Oukamok Island, 502
Oukinskoi, Cape, 552
Oukivok Island, 527
Ouleai Islands, 764
Oulemeray Island, 765
Ouliakhpen, Cape, 542-3
Ouliago Mountain, 510
Ouluthy Island, 766
Oumnak Island, 509
Oumaknagh Island, 508
Oumnak Strait and Island,
509
Ounalga Island, 508, 515
Ounalga Strait, 511
Ounalashka Island, 507
Ounalik Island, 760
Ounatchogh, 503
Ounga Island, 502
Ounimak, Cape, 520
Ounimak Island, 504-5
996
INDEX.
Ounimak Strait and Islands,
506
Ou-ou-kinsh Inlet, 359, 363
O Wahi, 826
Owari Bay, 621
Owen Island, 316
Owhyhi Island, 826
Owhyhee Island, 826
Oyster Bay, 397
Oyster Harbour, 299
Oyster Island, 582
Ozernoi, Cape, 553
Ozzard, Mount, 340
Paanopa Island, 717
Pacayo Volcano, 74
Pacheca Channel, 7
Pacheca Island, 7
Pachena Bay, 328
Pa-chung-san Islands, 900
Pacific City, 241
Pacifique Island, 893
Pacora Island, 20
Padilla Bay, 268-9
Padras, 135
Pafia, Cape, 140
Pagan Island, 813
Paghelian, Cape, 540
Pago Harbour, 802
Pagon Island, 813
Pagoobnoy Strait, 467
Paicpouc Cove, 803
Pajaro, Bahia del, 21
Pajaro, Rio del, 21, 178
Pajaros Id., 7, 22, 65, 114
Pajaros, Islas de los, 113
Pajaros Rocks, 9, 126
Pakenham Point, 485
Pakeen Islands, 751
Pakin Islands, 751
Pala Point, 117
Palaos Islands, 770
Palenque Island, 25, 27
Palau Islands, 770
Pali, The, 850
Pali Kulau District, 846
Pallada Road, 587
Pallou Islands, 768
Pallas Mountain or Peak,
656
Pallas Rocks, 682-3
Palliou Island, 765, 770
Palma, Cape, 140
Palmer Point, 337
Palmer Reef, 859, 866
Palmerston, Cape, 373
Palmyra Island, 701
Palux River, 244
Pamplona Rock, 480
Panaloya River, 48
Panama, 10
Panama Bay, 6, 911
Panama, Isthmus and Rail-
road, 1
Panama Reef, 268
Pan de Azucar, 37
Pander Island, 414
Pandora Peak, 316
Pane Bay, 741
Panian Harbour, 745
Paougvigumut, 520
Papagayo, 52
Papagayo, Bight of, 40
Papenburg Bluff, 676
Papenburg Island, 673
Parece Vela, 888
Parida, 28
Paridas Islands, 27
Parita Bay, 15
Parker Island, 306
Parker, Point, 464
Parker Reef, 281
Parker Shoal, 599
Park Hill, 278
Parry Bay, 319
Parry Channel, 436, 440
Parry Group, The, 880
Parry's Island, 732
Partridge Point, 257, 266
Parum Rock, 746
Pascalo Bay, 520
Pasley Island, 400
Pasquiel, 48
Passage Canal, 485, 492
Passage Island, 385, 489
Passage Reef, 667
Passage Rock, 9, 285, 342,
400
Passage Rocks, 686
Passago Reef, 618
Passages, 953-975
Cape Horn to California
and British Columbia, 953
-959; British California
and Australia, 959; Pa-
nama to California, 961;
California, &c., to Peru,
965; Central America,
Mexico, &c., 965; South-
ward and Panama, 966;
Panama Westward, 966;
Galapagos Islands to Cape
San Lucas, 967; South
America to Central Ame-
rica, 968: Coast of Cali-
fornia, 969; San Francis-
co, 970; Between Califor-
nia and China, 972; Be-
tween the Islands, &c.,
973; Across the Equator,
974; Sandwich Islands,
to the Northward and
Eastward, 974
Passarera Island, 102
Passion Island or Rock, 786
Pastolik, 524
Patay Point, 802
Paterson Islands, 729
Patey Rock, 297
Patience, Cape, and Bay,
576
Patino Point, 6
Patoa Road, 843
Patos Islands, 378, 280-1,
288
Patos, De los, 130
Patrocinio Island, 874
Paukaa Point, 829
Paulogue Islands, 770
Pavlovskaia Bay, 518
Payo Island, 23
Pazaca River, 63
Paz Harbour, La, 136
Pazas River, 72
Paza, Rio, 63
Peacock Channel, 339
Peacock Spit, 241
Pearce Point, 431
Peapods, The, 275
Pearl Archipelago, 6
Pearl and Hermes Reef, 866
Pearl Lagoon, The, 848
Pearl River Harbour, 848
Pearl Rocks, 426
Pearse Islands, 418
Pearson Island, 403
Pedan Islands, 781
Pedder Bay, 319
Pedder Island, 721
Pedro-nales, 172
Pedernales Point, 172
Peel Island, 419, 880, 881
Peguenema Islands, 751
Peile Point, 303, 306
Pejaros Point, 21
Pelado Islet, 10
Pelees Islands, 588
Pelelep Island, 742
Pelelew Island, 775
Pelew Islands, 734, 770
Pelican Bay, 213, 219
Peligrosa, El Canal, 130
Pell Island, 865
Pellew, Point, 485
Pender Harbour, 403
Pender Island, 290-1
Penjina River, 569
Penjinsk Bay, 547
Penkegnei Bay, 539-40
Pennell Island, 893
Penn Islands, 409
Penn's Cove, 266
Pequena Bay, 142, 144
Percy, Point, 453
Perdona Rock, 23
Perico Island, 13
Perigne Rock, 15
Perlas Islands, 6
Pernicious Strait, 467
Peroat Island, 711
Perouse Strait, La, 578
Perpetua, Cape, 228
Perry Bay, 8
Perry Island, 641, 886
Perry Rock, 290
Peru Island, 708, 710
Perula Bay, 102
Pescado Blanco Bay, 147
Pescadore Islands, 726
Pestchanoi Point, 588
Petaluma Creek, 201
Petaplan Hill, 96
Petatlan, Morro de, 96
Peter the Great Bay, 589
Petillo Point, 12
Petrel Island, 791
Petropaulovski, 555, 557,
560
Petropaulovski
557
Harbour,
Philadelphia Id., 859, 864,
866
Phoebe Island, 703
Philip Island, 766
Phillimore Point, 306
Phillipine Islands, 817
Phipps, Cape, 476-7
Phipps Point, 484
Pichiligue, 80
Pichilingue Bay, 137
Pic-de-Langle
Mountain,
578, 657
Pico Channel, 567
Pie Island, 488
Piedra Blanca, 90-99
Piedras Blancas, 174
Piers Island, 296-7
Pigali Island, 762
Pigen Island, 722
Pigeon Island, 879
Pigeon River, 210
Pigot Point, 485
Pigouelao Island, 762
Pikela Island, 762
Pikelot Island, 762
Pilas, Las, 3
Pilier Rock, 587
Pililau Island, 775
Pilipal Island, 760
Pillarcitos, Arroya de los,
181
Pillar Hill Tree, 238
Pillar Point, 180, 254
Pillar Rock, 180
Pilley Shoal, 370
Pilot Knob, 221
Pineda, 45
Pine, Cape, 495
Pine Island, 245, 424
Pingelap Islands, 742
Pinnace Channel, 361
Pinnace Rock, 336
Pinnacle Island, 369, 532,
893, 904
Pinnacle Point, 363, 559
Pinnacle Rock, 204, 253
Pinos Point, and Light,
176
Pioneer Rocks, 681
Pipestem Inlet, 339
Pique Bay, 592
Pisayama Rock, 619
Piscador River, 180
Pise Island, 758
Piserarr Island, 760
Pitt Archipelago, 430
Pitt Island, 467, 708, 717
Pitt River, 384
Pivay Bay, 21
Pizaras Island, 760
Platanal Point, 30, 31
Playa Brava Sand, 21
Playa de Chicarene, 62
Playa Grande, 16
Playa Hermosa, 46
INDEX.
Playa Maria Bay, 148
Plaza Grande, 26
Pleasant Island, 717
Pleasant Islands, 793
Plover Bay, 542
Plover Point, 344
Plover Reefs, 342
Plumper Bay, 321, 413
Plumper Cove, 400
Plumper Harbour, 352-3
Plumper Island, 370
Plumper Pass, 287, 325
Plumper Reef and Sound,
280, 288-9
Plunger Pass, 407
Plymouth Island, 879
Plymouth or Kidd Island,
885
Plymouth Rocks, 639, 643
Pnaougoun, Cape, 536
Podsopotchnoi Peak, 513
Poett Nook, 329
Pogobi, Cape, 580
Pogrommoi Volcano, 506
Pointers Reef, 433
Pointers Rock, 449
Poison Cove, 429
Poitik Point, 746
Pole, Cape, 457
Polland Island, 863
Pollard Rock, 863
Polly River, 454
Poloat Islands, 761
Polovinchaty Rock, 548
Ponafidin Island, 630
Ponalo Bay, 497, 501
Ponapi Island, 736
Ponapi Islands, 743
Ponente Point, 51
Porcada Island, 23
Poromushir Island, 562
Porpoise Rock, 102, 484
Portier, 308
Portier Pass, 287, 306, 384,
387
Portland, 242
Portland Canal, 432, 434,
445, 449
Portland Island, 296
Portland Point, 341
Portlock Harbour, 471
Portlock Point, 304
Portsmouth Breakers, 622
Posiette Bay, 587
Possession Point, 317, 492
Possession Sound, 259, 265
Postels, Cape, 541
Potainikoff, Cape, 512
Poulouhot Island, 761
Pouloupa Island, 743
Poulousouk Island, 761
Powhattan Bay, 640
Powhattan Reef, 891
Preedy Harbour, 299, 301
Presidio Shoal, 188
Prevost Harbour, 291
Prevost Island, 291, 303,
306, 436
Prevost Passage, 296
997
Prevost Peak, 565
Pribuiloff Islands, 533
Prideaux Point, 371
Princessa Island, 729
Princess Louisa Inlet, 404
Princess Royal Islands, 428
Princess Royal Reach, 404
Prince Island, 627
Prince Ernest Sound, 453--
455
Prince Frederick Sound,
459
Prince William Sound, 487,
489, 919
Prince of Wales Archipe-
lago, 452
Prince of Wales, Cape, 529
Prince of Wales Reach,
404
Principe, Canal de, 432
Prisoners Harbour, 170
Proche Island, 494
Prokofieff Island, 572
Pronge, Cape, 585
Prospect Island, 701
Prosser Rock, 424
Protection Island, 256, 336,
388
Protection, Port, 456
Providence Cove, 316
Providence Islands, 733
Providence, Port, 542
Pueblo de los Angeles, 160
Pueblo Nuevo, 22
Puercos Point, 17
Pueril, 21
Pueril Island, 20
Puertesitos, 130
Puerto Falsa, 158
Puffin Islet, 277
Puget, Cape, 486
Puget Sound, 217, 241, 258,
262, 378
Pully Point, 261
Pulo-souk, 761
Pulpito de San Juan, 135
Puna, 828
Puna Cove, 853
Puna Mountains, 840
Punch Bowl, The, 850
Punta Gorda, 174
Purissima River and Point,
172
Pustaresk, 569
Puzzle Island, 336
Pybus Point, 460-1
Pyghella Island, 762
Pyke Point, 486
Pylades Channel, 310
Pylstaart Island, 874
Pym Island, 295
Pyramid Rock, 134, 577
Quadra, Boca de, 450
Quadra Hill, 307
Quadra Island, 271
Qualicum River and Bay,
393
998
INDEX.
Quartermaster
262
Harbour,
Quathiasky Cove, 411
Quatsino Narrows, 371
Quatsino Sound, 367, 372
Queen Charlotte Channel,
399
Queen Charlotte's Island,
215
Queen Charlotte Islands,
435
Queen Charlotte
417, 419
Queen's Cove, 357-8
Queen's Reach, 404
Queen Rock, 138
Quelama River, 67
Que-ni-utl River, 248
Quepos Islands, 34
Quepos Point, Las, 34
Quibito, 19
Quibo Island, 17
Quicksand Bay, 231
Quisiguina, 58
Quitshak River, 521
Quoin Hill, 579
Quoin Point, 582
Quoy Island, 780
Rabbit Island, 791
Raccoon Straits, 189
Race Island, 317
Race Islands, 251-2
Sound,
Race Islands and Passage,
318
Race Narrows, 344
Race Pass, 415, 418
Race Point, 208
Radack Islands, 719
Rudak Sea, The, 726
Radokala Íslands, 727
Raf el Point, 346
Raft Cove, 373
Ragged Island, 300, 310,
334, 337
Ragged Islands, 405
Ragged Point, 372
Rai Islands, 729
Raikoke Island, 564
Rainier Mountain, 261, 267
Rakovya and Shoal, 559
Rakovya Bay & Harbour,
555, 557
Rakovya Harbour & Bank,
556
Raleigh Rock, 904
Ralik Chain, The, 726
Ralik Islands, 719
Ramsden Point, 434
Ranai Island, 844
Rancheria, 19
Rankin Point, 898
Raour Island, 764
Rasa Island, 458, 890
Rascals, Village of, 428
Rashau Island, 564
Raspberry Island, 431
Ratak Islands, 718
Ratcher Island, 711
Rat Islands, 505, 515-6
Ratmanoff, Cape, 575
Ratmanoff Island, 530
Ratmanoff, Port, 540
Rattler Rock, 647
Raukoko Island, 564
Raven Islands, 722, 752
Razor Point, 290
Read Island, 408
Read Islands, 406
Realejo, 3, 38, 49, 52
Reaumer Peak, 777
Rebecca Spit, 408
Rebuntsiriboi Island, 565
Recruit Island, 904
Red Bluff, 207
Red Cliff, 686
Red Cliff Island, 588
Red Cliffs, 646
Red Island, 305
Red Island Point, 304
Red Cliff Point, 831
Red Stripe Mountain, 366
Redding's Rock, 211
Redfern Island, 424
Redfield Rocks, 627
Redonda, 335
Redondo, Cape, 142
Redondo Rock, 15
Reed Island, 666
Reed Rocks, 859
Reef Island, 284-5, 329
Reef Islands, 897
Reef Point, 310, 368, 369
407
Refuge Cove, 32, 346
Refunsiri Island, 578
Rehusa Channel, 141
Reid Harbour, 291
Reid Rock, 279
Reindeer Island, 503
Rejnoff, Cape, 518
Remedios, 64
Remedios Point, 69, 70
Remolina, Punta, 56
Rennell Sound, 441
Resiri Island, 578
Resolution Cove, 353
Restoration Core, 427
Restoration Point, 260
Resurrection Gulf, 488
Retreat Point, 463, 464
Retribution Rocks, 682
Revilla Gigedo, 450
Revilla Gigedo Canal, 452
Revilla Gigedo Islands, 787
Reyes Islands, 734
Rey, Islas del, 6, 8, 249,
196
Reyes, Punta de los, 191
Rica de Oro, 632
Rica de Plata, 875
Richard's Island, 664
Richard Rock, 339
Rich's Island, Sir R., 778
Richmond Rocks, 103
Rochussen River, 780
Redonda Island, 406
Rigné, Cape, 778
Rikard, Cape, 566
Rikimushiri Island, 654
Rimnik, Cape, 575
Rimski-korsakoff Islands,
718, 726-7
Rincon, Rio, 31-2
Riou Point, 479
Ripple Point and Shoal,
414, 417
Ritchie Bay, 344
Ritidian Point, 802
Rivadeneyra Shoal, 694
Rivas Point, 102, 426
Roan Kiddi River, 748
Robben Island, 576
Robbers Island, 330, 335
Robbers Nob, 415
Robert Point, 344
Roberts Bank, 380
Roberts Point, 269, 276,
379, 397
Robinet Rock, 686
Roble, Punta, 21
Robson Island, 269
Roca Coral Island, 789
Roca Pardero, 789
Roca Partida, 788
Roche Harbour, 289, 293
Roikhpak River, 522
Rock Island, 633, 636
Rock Islet, 268
Rocky Bay, 279
Rocky Cape, 526
Rocky Island, 686, 777
Rocky Pass, 346
Rocky Point, 387
Rodd Point, 321.
Rodney, Point, 527
Roa Mountain, 839
Rongerik Islands, 727
Roger Simpson Island, 714
Rogue's River and Reef,
219
Roic Mountain, 745
Roiven, Cape, 660-1
Rojnoff, Cape, 519
Rojo, Mar, 121
Rokuren Island, 602
Rollin, Cape, 565
Rolling Roadstead, 357
Romanzoff, Cape, 522, 657
Romanzoff, Islands, 723
Romanzov Bay, 579
Rono Kiti Harbour, 747
Roqueta Island, 92, 93, 95
Rosa Island, 891
Rosario, 123
Rosario Bay, 86
Rosario, Bahia del, 21, 88
Rosario, Rio Del, 112
Rosario Island, 888
Rosario Point, 21
Rosario Strait, 267, 274,
278, 377
Rosedale Rock, 318
Rose Harbour, 438
Rose Point, 439
Rose Spit, 436
Roshnoff, Cape, 518
Ross Bay, 323
Ross, Fort, 201
Ross Islands, 730
Ross Mountain, 155, 194,
202
Ross, Port, 920
Rota Island, 803
Rothsay Point, 454
Rough Bay, 418
Round Island,
245, 309,
338, 371, 419, 521, 565
Roumiantsoff, Cape, 522
Rowe River, 321
Royal Bay or Roads, 320
Royalist Islands, 758
Royalist Islet, 893
Rua Island, 758
Rudder Reef, 392
Rudlin Bay, 325
Rugged Point, 359, 360
Ruk Island, 758
Rupert Arm, 367, 371
Rupert, Fort, 419
Rurick Strait, 506, 724
Russell, Cape, 373
Russell Island, 297
Russian River, 201-2
Ryche Poncie Group, 682
Ryghynin, Cape, 540
Saanich, 295
Saanich Inlet, 297
Saba Sima, 606
Sabine Channel, 391, 401
Sabine Group, 893
Sable Island, 713
Sabo River, 799
Saboga Island, 7
Sacate Islands, 34
Sacate Grande, 56, 57
Sacate Point, 42
Sacatula River, 97
Sachine Strait, 457
Sacrificios Island, 91
Saddle Hill, 247
Saddle Mountain, 647
Sado Island, 657-8
Safety Cove, or Port, 426
Sagami, Cape, 632, 638,
643
Sagami Hills, 638
Sagami Peninsula, 633
Saghalin, Island of, 573
Saghalin Peninsula, 568
Saga sima, 672
SAILING DIRECTIONS,
PASSAGES
Sailor Point, 322
INDEX.
St. Augustine Mountain,
490
Benedicto Island, 787
Croix, Gulf of, 541, 544
David Islands, 781
Elena, Cape, 41-2
Elias, Mount, 445, 479,
480
Elmo Bay, 8
Francis, Port, 920
George Island, 105
George's Island, 533
George Point, 213, 219
Helens Mountain, 237,
242
Hilario Island, 150
James, Cape, 437
John Point, 396, 398
Jonas Island, 572
Lawrence Bay, 536
Lawrence Island, 530
Lazarus Islands, 143
Lazaro Peak, 821
Lucas, Cape, 121, 915
Marcian Island, 515
Mary, Cape, 275
Mary Point, 466
Matthew Island, 531
Michael's Island, 524
Paul, Harbour of, 494
Paul's Island, 533
Pedro Nolasco Island,
129
Peter's Rock, 630
Sebastian, 124
Sorento, 130
Stephen Island, 502, 516,
531
Thaddeus, Cape, 546
Theodore Island, 531
Vladimir Bay, 589, 591,
923
Vincent Channel, 609
Xavier Island, 892
Saipan Island, 807
Sai Sima, 609
Seito Reef, 618
Sajouliucktusigh
Island,
502
Sakai River, 612
Sakate Bay, 609
Sakura Island, 599
Salina Cruz Bay, 84
Salina del Marques, 84
Salisbury, Point, 463
Salinas, 85
Salinas Bay and Island, 42
Salinas River, 178
Salinas, Morro de las, 86
see
Salinas Plains, 179
Sail Rock, 180, 334, 338,
669, 881
Saino Island, 26
Sainson Island, 779
St. Abraham Island, 531
Albans Point, 457
Andrew Islands, 784
Antony's Peak, 567
Salinas Bay, 29
Salmon Bank, 277
Salmon Bay, 415, 577
Salmon Creek, 202
Salmon Cove, 434
Salmon River, 211
Salmon Trout Bay, 577
Saloupa River, 799
Sal Point, 172
Sal si Puedes, 33
999
Sal si Puedes, Cerro de,
30
Saltchidak Island, 496
Salt Pit Bay, 98
Salt Pits, 97
Salt Point, 203
Samala River, 77
Samarang Island, 893
Samarang Islands, 702
Samganooda Bay, 503
Samgar, Strait of, 645
Samuel Island, 290
Samuel, Point, 464
Sana, 566
Sandan River, 573
Sanbon-take, 627
Sancelito Point, 189
Sand Island, 238, 868
Sandon Rocks, 893
Sandstone Rocks, 301
Sandwich Islands,
818
The,
Sandy Island, 394, 748, 901
Sandy Point, 276, 294, 588
Sangster Island, 398, 401
Sannagh Island, 503
Sannak Island, 503
Sanson Island, 442
Sansoral Islands, 784
Sansum Narrows, 298
Sant Angel, Fort, 799
Santiago, 72
Santiago Bay, 98
Santiago River, 22
San Augustino
753
Island,
Alessandro Island, 887
Andres, 46
Andres Point, 47
Antonio River, 178
Augustino
Island,
887
Balardo, Rio de, 172
Bartolom, Cape, 458
Islands,
Bartolomé Bay, 146
Bartolomé Island, 761
Bartolomeo
791, 793
148
Benito Islands, 147,
Berto Island, 787
Blas, 79, 81, 106, 914
Bruno Cove, 135
Bruno Mountains, 182
Carlos, 59, 95
Carlos Island, 458
Clemente Island, 165,
166
Diego, 149, 915
Diego Bay, 155-6
Diego Castle, 94
Diego, New, 157
Diego, Port and Bay,
150
Dionisio Island, 887
Engenio Point, 147
Estevan, 130
Estevan Island, 430
1000
INDEX.
San Felipe, 11
915
Felipe de Jesus, 133
Francisco, 182, 190,
San Miguel Gulf, 9, 911
Miguel Island, 171
Miguel River, 65
Miguel Point, 150
Miguel Volcano, 53
Miguel, Volcan de, 66
Nicolas Island, 165,
Santa Sabina Bay, 130
Teresa, Barra de, 83
Teresa Point, 135
Santo Domingo Point, 145
Santo Tomas Island, 787
Sapron Island, 866
Sarah Anna Island, 699
Sarah Point, 405
Saranac Island, 344
Sarannaia Cove, 513
Saratoga Spit, 633, 640, 642
Sarcophagus Island, 542
Sardines, Bay of, 174
Sariguan Island, 811
Sarpan Island, 803
Sarytscheff, Cape, 505-6
Sarytscheff Peak, 564
Sasagota Bay, 646
Satanna, Cape, 515
Francisco Bay, 149,
152
Francisco Island, 137
Gabriel Bay, 137
168
Geraldo, 172
Pedro Bay and Hill,
Geronimo Island, 149
159
Gregorio River, 180
Pedro, Cape, and Port,
Ignacio, 146
33
Ignacio Point, Island,
Pedro Island, 28, 103,
& Bay, 125
791
Inez, Sierra, 163
Pedro Martyr Falls,
73
Pedro Nolasco, 172
Pedro Point, 182
Port, and
Satano Misaki, 598
139
Jacinto Mountain, 472
Jose, 3, 72
Jose Bank & Id., 6, 8, 9
Jose, Cape, 32
Jose del Cabo, 136
Jose del Cabo Bay,
Jose de Guatemala, 75
Jose Fort, 799
Jose Island, 329
Jose Islands, 26, 333
Jose Point, 187
Pedro River, 112
Quentin,
Cape, 149
Ramon Bay, 150
Roque Island, 146
Roque, Rio de, 233
Salvador, 2, 63, 166
Salvador, City of, and
Volcano, 67
Salvador, Coast of, 64,
Vizcaino
Juse, Port, 73
Jose Rock, 13
68
Josef Bay, 368, 373
Josef Island, 137
Sebastian River, 202
Sebastian
Bay, 147
Simeon Bay, 174
Vicente, 63
Santa Ana, 11
Barbara
Juan Capistrano, 158
Juan del Sur, 43-4
Juan Island, 273, 291,
293
Juan
Nepomuceno,
137
Juan, Rio, 18
Juan River, 45
349
26
140
Juan Rock, 17
Juan, Port, 314, 316
Juanito, 105
Lazaro, 142
Lazaro, Cape, 147
Lazaro Peak, 139
Lorenzo, 56, 95
Lorenzo Point, 137
Lorenzo, Port, 215,
Lorenzo, Rio, 123
Lorenzo, Puerto de,
Lucas Island, 37
Lucas Bay and Cape,
Lucas, Cape, 859, 915
Lucas Islands, 170
Luis D'Apra, Port, 800,
801
Luis Obispo, 172, 176
Luis Point, 173
Luis Rey, 158
Marcial, 126
Marcos Island, 134
Martin, Cape, 175
Mateo Bay, 331
Miguel, 8, 61, 63
Miguel Chimalapa, 84
Miguel Bay, 6
Anna River, 160
Light, 162
Town and
Barbara and Channel,
154, 159, 161
Barbara Channel and
Islands, 164, 168
Catalina, 158
166
Catalina Island, 165,
Sta. Clara, 892
Santa Clara and River, 161
Clara, Rio de, 130
Cruz, 90
28
Cruz and Fort, 800-1
Cruz Island, 169
Cruz Island & Point,
Cruz de Mayo, 126
Cruz Point and Har-
bour, 177, 179
Inez, 172
Inez Island, 130
Lucia Bay, 94
Lucia, Sierra de, 175
Margarita, Cape, 215
Margarita Island, 140,
141-2
Maria Bay, 144
Maria Point, 148
Marina Point, 141
Rosa Bank, 817
Rosa Island, 170, 788
Rosa Shoal, 798
Satawal Island, 762
Satchet Head, 259
Satellite Channel, 295, 297
Satellite Pass, 329, 334
Satellite Reef, 389
Saturna Island, 280, 288,
290, 377, 387
Savary Island, 405, 409
Sawyer Bank, 52
Sayanagi, 609
Saypan Island, 794, 805, 807
Scarborough Hill, 241-2
Scarborough Island, 716
Scarborough Islands, 707,
877
Schischkoff, Cape, 656
Schischmareff Strait, 724
Schischmareff Inlet, 529
Schooner Pass, 424
Schouten Island, 780
Schouten Islands, 778
Schumagin Islands, 499, 502
Scotch Fir Point, 402
Scott, Cape, 326, 372, 373
Scott Cape, Channel, and
Islands, 424
Scott Island, 301
Scroggs Rocks, 319, 320
Scylla, Rocks of, 791
Seabock Island, 265
Sea Egg Rocks, 401
Sea Lion Island, 534
Sea Lions Island, 521
Sea Lion Rock, 518
Seal Rock, 147, 254
Seal Rocks, 185, 398
Sea Mew Islands, 511
Sea Otter Cove, 373
Sea Otter Island, 534
Sea Otter Rock, 342
Sea Otter Sound, 458
Seattle, 260
Sebastian Lopez Island, 875
Secas Islands, 25
Secretary Island, 308, 317
Seduction Point, 465
Seechelt Arm, 401, 404
Segouam Islands, 511
Sei Sima, 609
Seliape Island, 765
Sémenoff, Cape, 552
Semiahimoo Bay, 269, 378,
380
Semisopochnoi Island, 515
Semitsch Island, 504, 516
Séniavine, Cape, 519, 576
Séniavine Islands, 743
Séniavine Strait, 539
Senora, Province of, 123
Senora and Senorita Islands,
9
Sentinela Island, 20
Sentinel Island, 292
Separation Point, 283, 298
Sequalchin River, 223
Sequeira Islands, 734
Seraki, Cape, 651
Sergheieff Isthmus, 513
Serdze Kamen, Cape, 499
Serdze Kamen Mountain,
545
Serieuse Shoal, 94
Seriphos Rock, 891
Serpent Islands, 728
Sesga Point, 41
Seshart Channel, 337
Setei Island, 898
Seto Uchi, 596, 601, 614
Setuahal Island, 762
Seven Islands, 752
Seven Mountains, Island of,
515
Severnaia Guba, 574
Severny Islands, 533
Sevilla, Isla, 28
Seward Roads, 870
Seymour Bay, 900
Seymour Canal, 462
Seymour Narrows, 411-12
Shadwell Passage, 420-22
Shag Rock, 9, 188, 338
Shah Bay, 899
Shakoff Point, 560
Shalers Island, 859
Shangoi Islands, 437, 443
Shantar Islands, 567, 572
Shantarski Islands, 572
Shanz Islands, 728
Shark Pass, 334
Shark Reef, 282
Shark Reefs, 342, 347
Sharp Point, 341, 346, 389,
390
Sharon, 553
Shaw Island, 286, 279, 282,
284, 490
Shell Island, 420
Shelter Arm, 346
Shelter Bay, 591
Shelter Cove, 205
Shelter Island, 365
Shelter Islands, 340
Shelter Point, 397
Shelvocks Island (?), 859
Shepherd Mountain, 397,
401
Sherringham Point, 316
Shiashkotan Island, 564
North Pacific.
INDEX.
Shilka River, 584
Shilo River, 588
Shika-no-se, 610
Shimo Idzumi, 667
Shimonosaki, 603
Shingle Point, 360, 421
Shingle Spit, 396
Ship Channel, 340
Ship Island, 329, 333, 334,
337
Ship Passage, 332
Ship Point, 394
Ship Rock, 131, 366, 510
Shipunskoi, Cape, 554, 556
Shirinky Island, 562
Shishaldin Mountain, 506
Shoal Bay, 282
Shoal Channel, 400
Shoal Islands, 299
Shoal Point, 575
Shoalwater Bay, 235
Shoalwater Bay and Cape,
242
Shode Sima, 609
Shovel Island, 859
Shushartie Bay, 421
Shute Passage, 295
Shute Reef, 297
Siau Wuhu Bay, 589
Siclata Point, 93
Sidney Channel and Island,
287, 294
Sidney Island, 288, 289, 296
Sierpe, Boca, 34
Sierra Madre Mountains, 43
Sigak, Cape, 509
Siga Sima, 666
S. Ignacio de Agana, City
of, 801
Signal Head, 673
Sihuantanejo, Port, 97
Sikhs River, 223
Sikine, 626
Sikok, 600, 615
Sikok Island, 596
Sikolan Island, 566
Sikok Strait, 597
Silla Island, 25
Simabara Gulf, 680
Sima, Cape, 621
Simago Islands, 893
Simidin Island, 502
Simidzu Harbour, 623
Simoda, 594, 632, 636
Simoda Harbour, 634
Simonanba Point, 606
Simonoseki Channel, 597
Simonoseki Strait, 601, 602,
605, 665
Simpson Fort, 449
Simpson Islands, 707
Simpson, Port, 433
Simpson River and Fort,
433-4
Simusir Island, 565
Sinagawa, 642
Sinanomis River, 265
Sinaloa, Province of, 123
Sinaloa, Rio de, 125
Sinclair Island, 268
Sineko, Cape, 656
Sintalapa River, 1, 76
Sio Saki, 615
Siquantanejo, 97
Sirahama, 634
1001
Sirakami, Cape, 651, 655
Sirasai Saki, 616, 617
Siretoko, Cape, 577, 654
Sir Francis Drake's Bay,
196
Siriya Saki, 647
Siro Sima, 602, 675, 687
Sisiki Saki, 669
Sisters, The, 669
Sisters, Islands, The, 276,
339, 398
Sisters Rocks, 99, 296
Sisuro Point, 587
Sitka, 446, 448
Sitka Archipelago, 466
Sitka Islands, 449
Sitka Sound, 472
Sitkhin Island, 514
Sitkhin, West, 516
Sitziwura Bay, 680
Sivoutchi Island, 534
Sivoutchy Rock, 518
Siwokubi, Cape, 647, 651
Siwo Misaki, 619
Siwu Sima, 893
Sixty-four fathoms Bank,
875
Six Islands, The, 716
Sizikuts, Cape, 603
Sizi Sima, 609
Skenesi Bank, 610
Skidegate Channel, 441
Skidegate Channel and Har-
bour, 437-8
Skina River, 433
Skipjack Island, 280
Skiton Harbour, 442
Slate Island, 450
Slavianska River, 155, 194,
202
Slavianski Bay, 588
Sledge Island, 527
Slimpson Reef, 415
Slip Point, 254
Small Island, 366
Smith Inlet, 426
Smith Island, 274, 326, 63),
716, 720, 725, 791
Smith's Island, 131
Smith's River, 213
Smoky Bay, 497
Smotz ura Bay, 616
Snag Point, 241
Snares, The, 564
Snettisham, Port, 462
Snug Basin, 331
Snug Corner Bay, 484
Snug Cove, 399
Snug Creek, 298
Soconusco District, 72
Soconusco Province, 77
Socorra Island, 787
Socorro, Puerto del, 269
3 U
1002
INDEX.
Soimonoff, Cape, 576
Solander Island, 365
Solentiname, 48
Soleny Island, 513
Sombrerito Hill, 134
Sombrero Point, 31
Sombrio River, 317
Somoshiri Island, 654
Sonate Island, 48
Sonora, 114
Sonsonate, 3
Sosonate Roads, 68
Sooke Inlet, 317
Sooughe Island, 761
Sophia Point, 469
Soriwi Saki, 651
Sorol Islands, 766
Sosanjaya, 803
Sosanlago, 803
Sossan Hagno, 803
Sossan Haya, 803
Sotoan Island, 755
Sotoan Islands, 757
Sotonohirase
679
Rock,
673,
Solima River, 520
Soumaye, 801
Saunders Island, 874
Southampton Rock, 634
South Bay, 246
Southey Point, 301, 308
Southgate River, 410
South Island, 628, 879
South or Perry Island, 886
South Rock, 902
South Rowan Island, 890
Southworth Point, 261
Souvoroff and Cape, 520
Souworoff Islands, 725
Soya, Cape, 579
Soya Island, 657
Sozu Sima, 609-10
Spanberg, Cape, 543, 562,
654
Spanberg Island, 566
Spanberg Mountain, 576
Spanish Bank, 385
Spanish Islands, 817
Speaker Rock, 415
Speck Reef, 55
Spencer, Cape, 469-70
Spencer Keys, 769
Spencer Ledge, 325
Spencer Point, 528
Spex Strait, 669, 685
Sphinx Island, 306
Spieden Chan., Directions,
292
Spieden Island, 279
Spieden Island and Channel,
292
Spirkin Islands, 508
Spring Passage, 279
Sproat Bay, 330
Square Rock Point, 664
Squawmisht River, 398
Squirrel Cove, 406
Srednoy Island, 565
Stachinski Inlet, 455
Stag Bay, 405
Stamp Harbour, 331-2
Stanhope Point, 455
Staniforth Point, 430
Staniski Point, 558
Stanovoi Mountains, 537
Stapleton Island, 880, 884
Starbuck Island, 706
Staritchkoff Reef, 513
Starlight Reefs, 340
Station Peak, 149
Steamer Bay, 455
Steamer Cove, 346
Steamer Pass, 331
Stearns Bluff, 247
Steep Cape, 495
Steep Island, 412
Steep Point, 284
Steep-to Island, 724
Steilacoom, 262
Stephen Islands, 780
Stephens, Cape, 524
Stephens Islands, 431
Stevens Passage, 401, 459,
460, 461, 462
Sterile Island, 494
Stewart Bay, 341
Stewart, Port, 451, 589
Stikine River, 461
Stikine River and Fort, 454
Stobual Island, 722
Stockdale Harbour, 487
Stockade Point and Bay,
286
Stolbovoi, Cape, 553
Stobovskaia River, 553
Stolétie, Cape, 542
Stone Mole Rocks, 527
Stopper Islands, 339, 340
Storm Island, 334, 338, 424
Strawberry Bay, 268
Striped Peak, 254
Strogonoff Bay, 656
Strogonoff, Cape, 519
Strong Island, 739
Strong Tide Island, 325
Stuart Channel, 299, 307
Stuart Island, 280, 288, 291,
409, 524
Stuart Island and Channel,
287
Stubbs Island, 342
Sturgeon Bank, 378, 385
Styleman Point, 462
Suart Island, 279
Suchiltepeques Province, 77
Sucia Island, 277, 280
Suckling, Cape, 481
Suco Island, 898
Suemez Island, 458
Suffrein Bay and Cape, 581
Sugarloaf Cape, 532
Sugarloaf Island, 207, 898
Sui-tun River, 588
Sukhtelen Bay, 656
Suk Island, 761
Sulivan Reefs, 363
Sullivan Point, 459
Sulphur Bay, 789
Sulphur Beds, 163
Sulphur Island, 887, 894
Sulphur Peak, 155
Sulphur Rocks, 13
Sului Sima, 643
Sumass River, 332
Sumegi Lake, 634
Sumshu Island, 562
Sunday Rock, 348
Sung-ami, 617
Sungari River, 585
Sunharon, 807
Supply Rock, 634
Suguamish Harbour, 265
Surf Islands, 368
Surge Islands, 365
Sur Point, 175
Suruga, Gulf of, 622, 636
Susaki, 601, 632, 634, 639,
643, 645
Susa Maria, 146
Susan, Port, 265
Susquehanna Bay, 640
Sutil Channel, 406, 408-9
Sutil Mountain, 307
Suwo Kubi, Cape, 649
Suwo Nada, 605
Suzume Rock, 675
Sveno Yama Mountains, 644
Svetchnikoff Harbour, 512
Swaya Point, 602
Swaine, Cape, 428
Swain Reef, 667
Swale Rock, 337
Swans, Bay of, 572
Swanson Channel, 287, 296,
301, 304, 305
Swars, Cape, 654
Swede Islands, 762
Swiss Boy Island, 334-5
Sybilla Island, 791
Sybille Bay, 591
Sydenham Island, 713
Sydney Inlet, 345-6
Sydney Islands, 404
Sykes, Point, 450
Symplegades Islands, 682
Taba Sima, 606
Table Bluff, 208
Table Hill, 897
Table Island, 362
Table Mountain, 195, 686
Table Point, 590
Tables Mountains, 150
Taboga, 11
Taboga and Island, 14
Taboga Rocks, 13
Tabognilla, 14
Tabor Island, 15
Tabu Sima, 657
Taco and Arm, 462
Tagai Islands, 725
Tagaik Island, 751
Tagh Kiniagh Island, 502
Tagleokou Mountain, 539
Tago Bay, 623-4
Tagoilap Island, 765
Tagua Point, 802
Tahaharee Bay, 616
Tahaurawe, 844
Tahoora Island, 856
Tah-sis Canal, 351
Tah-sish Arm, 361
Ta Island, 751
Taigonotskoi, Cape, 569
Taipingon Point, 803
Taitchnoi, Cape, 513
Taï-pin-san Islands, 899
Tajamulco Volcano, 74
Takaboko, 676
Taka Islands, 718, 725
Takaikama Island, 608
Takain Rock, 745, 746
Takamatsu, 609
Takami, 608
Takanaba Island, 600
Taka Sima, 616, 674, 682
Taka Sima Islands, 682
Takayama, Cape, 664
Takay Island, 742
Take Sima, 891
Taking Island, 899
Tako River, 463
Takura Saki, 614, 616
Tala Point, 264
Talawa, Lake, 214
Talon Island, 20
Tamagawa, 663
Tamana Island, 711
Taman Island, 746
Tama no Ura, 672
Tamarinda, 47
Tamary Aniwa, 577
Tamasula Hill, 124
Tamatam Island, 760
Tamatlan, 104
Tameitsi Bay, 680
Tammatapappa Island, 856
Tanabe, 617
Tanabe, Bay and Cape, 618
Tanaga Island, 514
Tanapag Harbour, 809
Tanega Sima, 891
Tanghinakh Island, 509
Tangolatangola Island, 88
Tannadagh Island, 516
Tano Bank, 604
Tano-üra, 604
Tan Saki, 673
Taongi Islands, 725
Tapak Rock, 746
Tapiteuwea Island, 708
Taputeouea Island, 711
Tarafofo, 801
Tarafofo Harbour, Port, and
River, 802
Tarakai, 573
Tarara Island, 900
Tarawa Island, 708, 715
Tarcoles Bay, 36
Tareinski Harbour, 557,
560
Tartary, Gulf of, 580
Taske Bay, 670
INDEX:
Tatchik Bay, 526
Tat-chu Point, 358, 363
Tatiyama Bay, 633, 639
Tatnall Reefs, 423
Tatouch Island, 252
Tatoosh Island, 252
Tatsupi Saki, 646, 651
Tavala River, Great, 123
Tavano, Port, 566
Tavasera, Rio, 22
Ta-wu-hu Bay, 590
Tchagvan Bay, 522
Tchaitchi Islands, 511
Tchaplin, Cape, 541
Tchastie Islands, 514
Tchetchekouioum, 541
Tchiarloun Strait, 540
Tching-an, Cape, 543
Tchinkitanay Bay, 472
Tchirikoff, Cape, 544
Tchoukotskoi, Cape, 541,544
Tchuktchis, The, 535
Teaeapan, Boca de, 112
Tebakh, Cape, 585
Tebenkoff Cove, 524
Tebut Island, 729
Te-cheh-quut, 223
Tecusitan, 104
Tehuantepec, Town of, 84
Tehuantepec, Gulf of, 79,
82, 912
Tejupan Bluff, 98
Tejupan, Point and Paps of,
110
Telegraph Harbour, 299,
301, 309
Telegraph Hill, 187
Telica Volcano, 50, 55
Temo Island, 724
Templar Channel, 342, 345
Templar Rocks, 323
Temposan, Fort, 612
Tenacatita Bay, 102
Tenedos Island, 746
Tennessee (wreck), 193
Tenola, Barra de, 83
Tent Island, 300, 301, 308
Tepec, 106, 109
Tequepa Point, 96
Terapa Island, 15
Tesico, Cape, 566
Tessan Shoal, 142
Teurire Island, 657
Texhada Island, 391, 397,
398, 401, 409
Texupan Point, 913
Thames Shoal, 324
Thatcher Passage, 282, 283
Thetis Cottage, 320
Thetis Cove, 442
Thetis Island, 299, 306, 307,
309
Thirteen Islands, 764
Thomas Point, 419
Thompson Point, 285
Thompson River, 375
Thormanby Islands, 401-2
Tasso Harbour, 442
Thorn Rock, 442
Tasman Bay, 600
Tatanomi Bay, 607
Thornborough Channel, 400
1003
Three Hill Island, 630
Three Hummock Island, 630
Three Islands, 878
Three Sisters Islands, 781
Thumb Peak, 10
Thurlow Island, 413, 414,
417
Tiara Mountain, 575
Ti-a-usu Island, 903
Tibbett Island, 629
Tiburon Island, 130
Tichenor's Rock, 220
Tide Island, 407
TIDES, 924-933; Tides in
general, 924; Rev. Dr.
Whewell on the Tides of
the Pacific, 925; Tides on
West Coast of North
America, 927-8; Islands,
929; Central Pacific, 930.
TIDE TABLE—
Central America, Mexico,
&c., 931: British Co-
lumbia, &c., 932: Alas-
ka, &c., 932: Tartary,
Japan, and the Islands,
933
Tides, Active Pass, 305
British Columbia, 378
Broughton Strait, 417
Calm and Bute Chan-
nels, 411
Georgia, Strait of, 391
Goletas Channel, 420
Haro Strait, 289
Honolulu, 852
Jervis Inlet, 404
Johnstone Strait, 414
Nagasaki, 679
Nanaiino Harbour, 390
Nootka Sound, 351
Central Pacific, 930
North Pacific, 923
Panama, 13
Punta Arenas, 38
Queen Charlotte's
Islands, 443
309
326
Rosario Strait, 276
Sandwich Islands, 823
San Francisco, 190
Seymour Narrows, 41
Trincomalie Channel,
Vancouver Island,
Tide Table, 931
Tierra, Piedra da, 106
Tierra, Silva de, 23
Tigalda Island, 506
Tigalga Island, 506
Tiger Island, 777
Tigil River, 568
Tigilsk, 569
Tigre, Island of, 58
Tigre, Rio del, 32
Tigrito Point, 31
Tilapa, 76
Tilema, 83
Tilema Lake, 83
1004
INDEX.
Tillamook Bay and Head,
230, 231
Tillamook, False, 231
Timber Cove, 203
Tindal and Watts Island,
724
Tinginak Island, 509
Tinian Island, 794, 805
Tinto, Arroya, 24
Tipitapa River, 48
Tisingal Gold Mines, 3
Titiguapa, Rio, 65
Tjan Island, 722
Tlevak Strait, 458
Tlupana Arm, 350, 353
Toba Inlet, 406
Tobi Island, 784
Tobi Sima, 614, 674
Todd Rock, 324, 330
Todos los Santos, 141, 150
Todos Santos, 173
Toeaigh and Bay, 834
Toe-yah-yah Bay, 834
Tofino Inlet, 345
Tohadgi Point, 634
Tokara Sima, 893
Toke Point, 242
Tokoeoa, 721
Tok Sima, 894
Toledo, 223
Tol Island, 758
Tolocolme Mountain, 744
Tolstoi, Cape, 513
Tomales Point and Bay,
195, 199
Tomas Bay, 42
Tomang-ai Island, 613
Tomo, 608
Tomoika Harbour, 681
Tom Point, 297
Tomo Sima, 610
Tongass, 449
Tongue Point, 142, 308
Tongue Point and Channel,
240
Tonin, Cape, 577
Tonkoy, Cape, 495
Tonock Bay, 458
Top-knot Point, 372
Toporkoff Island, 548, 555
Toporkowa Island, 494
Toquart Harbour, 338-9
Tordillo, Cerro, 128
Tordla, Rio, 65
Toriwi saki, 646
Torres Island, 758
Torres Rocks, 812
Tortolas, Rio de los, 209
Tortuga Bank, 808
Tortuga Island, 130, 134
Tortugas Rock, 116
Torua Island, 722
Tosco, Cape, 141
Tosima Island, 600, 626
Totomosiri Island, 579
Totten's Inlet, 262
Touching Island, 717
Tougouene Point, 799
Tonkara Island, 893
Toulikskoi & Volcano, 509
Towaihai Bay, 834
Tower Bay, 95
Townsend Point, 460
Townshend, Port, 257
Toyama and Bay, 660
Toyimisaki and Point, 600
TRADE-WINDS, see WINDS.
Trading Bay, 492
Trail Bay and Islands,
401
Traitor's Cove, 457
Traitor's Bay, 567
Traitor's Islands, 780
Traversey Islands, 722
Tranquil Creek, 345
Transfiguration Bay, 543
Trap Bluff, 362
Trapiche Peninsula, 8
Treaty Point, 641
Tree Island, 301, 878
Tree Point, 612
Tree Rock, 676
Tree Saddle, 632
Tree Saddle Hill, 643
Tremeton, Mount, 401
Tres Columnas Island, 875
Tres Ojitos, Los, 130
Trevan Rock, 437
Trial Island, 320
Trial Islands, 323
Triangle Island, 425
Tribune Bay, 393, 396
Trincomalie Channel, 287,
291, 306, 307
Trinidad, 127
Trinidad Head and Bay,
209
Trinidad River, 9
Trinity Cape and Islands,
496
Trinity River, 211
Trio Rocks, 892
Triumfo Silver Mines, 121
Triunfo de los Libres, 64
Trollope Point, 450
Trollope Rock, 6
Tromelin Island, 766
Trucha, 21
Trucha Island, 20
Truk Islands, 757
Tschatchanobury Mountain,
567
Tschegoula Island, 510
Tschegoula Islands, 516
Tschiganok Mountain, 510
Tschikotan Island, 562, 566
Tschoka River, 573
Tschipunski, Cape, 554
Tschirikoff Bay, 502
Tschitschagoff Bay, 517
Tschitchagoff, Cape, 520
Tschitschagoff Islands, 723
Tschougatschouk Bay, 490
Tshirinkotan Island, 564
Tsisia Rock, 579
Tsis Island, 758
Tsiuka, Cape, 451, 647
Tskahara Bay, 616
Tsugar, Cape, 646
Tsugar, Strait of, 645, 652,
655
Tsuji-Sima, 681
Tsukarase Rocks, 682
Tsuruga and Bay, 663
Tsu Sima, 665
Tsutara Sima, 672
Tsuya Sima, 620
Tuam, Mount, 294
Tucker Bay, 401-2
Tucker Island, 762
Tuft Island, 601
Tugidak Island, 496
Tugursk Bay, 573
Tugursk Bay and River,
572
Tujugiak River, 521
Tullo Island, 581
Tuman River, 586
Tumbo Island, 288
Tumitas River, 180
Tumun Point
802
and Bay,
Turnagain Arm, 485
Turnagain Island and Arm,
492
Turnbull Reef, 296
Turner Point and Cape,
477
Turn Island, 278, 329, 331,
333
Turn Island, and Rock,
278
Turn Point, 288, 291, 406,
422
Turret Rock, 830
Turtle Back, 285
Turtle Bay, 146
Turtles Rocks, 210
Tusubre River, 35
Tutomi Gulf, 622
Twenty-feet Rock, 366
Twin Island, 306
Twins Islands, 347
Two Brothers Reef, 863
Two-headed Point, 496
Two Tree Island, 713
Tyahtatooa Bay, 836
Tye Sima, 898
Ty-ping-san Island, 900
Typso River, 247
Tzaartoos Island, 328, 330
Uakkoun, Cape, 543
Ualan Island, 739
Ualan Islands, 734
Uaro Sima, 606
Ubita Point, 34
Uchucklesit Harbour, 331
Ucluelet Arm, 340
Ucona Rocks, 633
Udia-Milai Islands, 727
Udirick Islands, 725
Udsi Island, 608
Udsi Sima, 682
Ugagouk River, 520
Ugly Channel, 340
Ujae Islands, 728
Ujilong Island, 733
Ukinsk Bay, 552
Uki Sima, 644
Uku Sima, 671
Ulak Island, 515
Ulie Islands, 764
Ulithi Island, 766
Ulomnia Bay, 803
Ulul Island, 760
Umata, 808
Umata Bay and River, 798,
799
Umpquah River, 226
Unalachleet, 525
Unalaklik, 525
Unawb Island, 767
Union Island, 360
Union, La, 3, 56, 59
Union Telegraph Comp., W.
500, 546
Uniontown, 208
Unit Rock, 288
Unoura Harbour, 661
Unwelcome Harbour, 749
Unwelcome, Port, 744
Upolu Point, 834
Upright, Cape, 532
Upright Channel, 286
Upright Channel and Hill,
282
Upright Cliff, 301
Upwood Point, 402-3
Uraga Channel, 632, 637,
639, 643-4
Urago Channel, 632
Ura-kami Harbour, 620
Uranie Bank, 761
Ura-no-utsi, 601
Urava Peak, 14
Urricas Islands, 815
Urbitsh, 566
Urukthapel Island, 773-4
Urup Island, 565, 566
Useless Bay, 259
Useless Inlet, 335
Ushishir Island, 565
U Sima, 652
Usouri Bay, 589
Usubre River, 35
Usuri River, 585
Utholotskoi, Cape, 569
Utirik Islands, 718, 725
Utiroa, 711
Utoné, 626
Uu, 744
Uwa Sima, 605
Vagares Islands, 42
Vakhilskaia River, 555
Valle de Banderas, 104
Valdes Island, 306, 406,
408
Valdes, Puerto de, 485
Vali, Cerro, 8
Valientes Islands, 752
Valladolid Rock, 15
Vallenar Point, 452
Vancouver Bay, 404
Vancouver, Cape, 522
INDEX.
Vancouver Island, 251, 271,
311, 326, 918
Vandalia Bluff, 634
Vandeput Point, 461
Van der Lind, Cape, 566
Van Dieman Strait, 598,
635, 921
Vansittart Island, 422
Vargas Cone and Island, 341
Vargas Island, 347
VARIATION of the Compass,
952
Vasileva Rock, 473
Vashon Island, 259
Vashon Point and Island,
261
Veevidovskaia Islands and
Cove, 509
Veevidovskoi Volcano, 509
Vela Rocks, 889
Velas, Cape, 39
Velasquez Island, 57
Venado Island, 16, 114
Venados, Islas de los, 113
Ventana Island, 26
Ventana Point, 21
Ventosa Bay, 83
Venus Shoal, La, 142
Veragua, 3
Veragua, Coast of, 912
Veraguas Mountains, 11
Veraguas, Province of, 16
Verkhotoursky Island, 547,
552
Vermilion Sea, 112, 122
Vernon Bay, 337
Vesuvius Bay, 301
Vicente Point, 159
Victoria Harbour, 297, 319,
322
Victoria, La, 167
Victorieuse Island, 893
Victoria, Mount, 404
Viejo, Volcan de, 52, 53
Vigia Grande, 99
Vigia Hill, La, 162
Vigilant Point, 412
Village Island, 336, 362
Village Pass, 339
Village Point, 394
Village Rocks, 335
Villeuchinski Mountain, 557
Villeuchinski Volcano, 554
Viner Point, 408
Vineta Rock, 686
Violin, Pta., 34
Vique Cove, 15
Viradores Islands, 40
Virago Rock, 308
Virago Sound, 439, 440
Virgenas Paps, Las, 140
Virginie Mountain, 588
Virgin Rocks, 426
Viuda, 26
Viuda Rock, 25
Viveros Island, 7
Vneshnei, Cape, 571
Voevoda Bay, 589
Volano Island, 27
Volcano Bay, 655
Volcan Island, 875
1005
Volcano Hill, 844
Volcano Island, 627, 886,
891, 893
Von Donop Creek, 407
Vouten River, 542
Vries Island, 625, 643
Vulcan Island, 778
Wadasima Harbour, 615
Waddington Harbour, 410
Wafer Bay, 696
Waiakea Bay, 828
Waiakea Point, 831
Waialai Harbour, 846
Waikiki Anchorage, 852
Wailioli Mountain, 853
Waialua District, 846
Waialuku River, 829
Waimanalo, 847
Waimanolo Point, 848
Waimanu Valley, 833
Waimea Bay, 847-8, 853
Waimea District, 834
Waisima Bay, 661
Wakasa Bay, 663
Wakayama, 614, 616
Wakennenish Island, 342
Wakes Island, 792, 877
Walalla River, 203
Walckenaer Bay, 779
Waldron Island, 279, 294
Wales Island, 449
Wales Point, 434
Walker Bay, 880, 884
Walker Cove, 451
Walker Hook and Rock,
307
Walker Islands, 423, 697
Walker Point, 427
Walmouth Hill, 274
Walpole Point, 461
Walvis Bay and Islands,
567
Waneka District, 745
Wappatoo Island, 230
Warde Point, 454
Warn Bay, 344
Warn Island, 345
Warren Hastings Island,
783
Warren Island, 457
Wa saki, 658
Washington Harbour, 255
Washington Island, 435,
701
Washington, Mount, 395
Washington Territory, 242,
269, 379
Wasisu yama, 661
Wasp Islands, 279, 284
Wassilieff Bay, 501
Watauski, Cape, 591
Waterfall Creek, 829
Waters Point, 486
Waxell, Cape, 518
Webster Island, 641
Wedge Head, 620
1006
INDEX.
Wedge Island, 101, 370,
453
Wedge-shaped Cape, 505
Weeks Island, 876
Weewodski Harbour, 460
Wellington Islands, 742
Wessiloffsky, Cape, 507
Westcott Creek, 293
Westervelts Islands, 755
Westminster, New, 272, 382
West Point, 260
West Rocks, 360
West Sound, 285
Weynton Passage, 417, 418
Whale Bay, 475
Whale Channel, 132
Whale Creek, 231
Whale Fishery, 501
Whaleman Anchorage, 700
Whale Rock, 320, 321
Whale Rocks, 277
Whaler Island, West, 347
Whaley Point, 451, 663
Whidbey Islands, 251, 259,
265-6
Whiffin Island, 317
Whil-a-pah River, 244
White and Black Rocks,
275
White Beach Bay, 286
of the Trade-winds, 909;
Calm Belt, 909; N.E.
Trade-wind, 910; S.W.
Anti-Trade or Passage
Winds, 910; Central Ame-
rica, 911; Guayaquil
River to Guascames Point,
911; Choco Bay, 911;
Chirambira Point to Gulf
of San Miguel, 911; Pa-
nama, 912; Gulf of
Dulce to Gulf of Fonseca,
912; Gulf of Fonseca to
Gulf of Tehuantepec, 912;
Gulf of Tehuantepec 10
Texupan Point, 913; W.
Coast of Mexico, 914;
Lower California,
Cape San Lucas to San
Diego, 915: California,
916; San Francisco, 917;
Vancouver Island, Alas-
ka, &c., 918; Behring's
Sea, 920; Kamchatka,
920; Japan, 921; The
Islands, 923
915;
California, 154
Caroline Archipela-
go, 737
Hawaiian Archipe-
White Cliff, 282
Central America, 4
Gulf of Tartary,
White Cliff Bay, 588
White Cliff Head, 360, 362
White Cliff Point, 399
Whitehorn Point, 269, 276,
377
580
lago, 822
Ladrone Islands,
797
White Island, 99, 401, 405
White Pine Cove, 347
White Rock, The, 279, 299,
300, 424, 669
White Rock Point, 617
White Rocks, 174
Whitestone Point, 371
White Spit, 309, 394
Whitshed Bay, 604
Whymea Bay, 848
Widow Rock, 25
Wilder Bay, 589
Wilfred Point, 412
Willamette River, 241
Willes Island, 422
Willes Harbour, 869-70
William Head, 319
William Point, 268
William the Fourth Islands,
751
Willow Point, 411, 412
Wilson Island, 601, 665,
791
Wilson Islands, 763
Wilson Point, 257
Wimbledon l'oint, 469
Winchelsea Island, 392
Winchester Bay, 227
Winchester Mountain, 588
Windham Point, 462
WINDS of the North Pacific,
957-924; The General
Arrangement, 907, Limits
314
North Pacific, 907
San Francisco, 193
Vancouver Island,
Wingham Island, 482
Winter Cove, 290
Winter Harbour, 370
Wise Island, 30%
Wishart Reef, 754
Witshed, Cape, 483
Woahoo, 818
Woahoa Island, 816
Wodehouse Point, 473
Wolea Islands, 764
Wolf Island, 317
Wolf Rock, 458
Wooden Rock, 464, 467
Wood Hill, 897
Wood Islands, 344
Woodle Island, 707, 714
Woolridge Island, 400
Woody Island, 495
Woody Point, 327, 365
Worlcombe Island, 400
Works Canal, 433
Woronzow Point, 492
Worroray Mountain, 827
Wo Sima, 682
Wotje Islands, 722-3
Wottho Islands, 728
Wrangel Island, 454
Wreck Bay, 341
Wukido Island, 894
Wurst, Cape, 575
Wu-sima, 608
Wu-sima Channel, 607
Wyadda Island, 253
Xicalapa, 77
Xima, Cape, 621
Ximotepe, 47
Xipanga, 593
Yablonoi Krebit Mountains,
584
Yafiko yama, 660
Yakima Pass, 260
Yakuatl or Yuquot Sound,
349
Yukuno Sima, 891
Yale, 376, 381
Yama Kama and Harbour,
599
Yam Bay, 855
Yang-tse-kiang, 683
Yaniakinon, 539
Yaniskessery Island, 657
Yap Island, 767
Yaqui, 129
Yaqui, Rio, 126, 138
Yaquinnah River, 228-9
Ya saki, 658
Ya sima, 606
Yaska Island, 460
Yebisu, 659
Yebosi sima, 666
Yedo, 636
Yedo Bay, 640, 642
Yedo Bay and Gulf, 921
Yedo, Gulf of, 622, 632,
642
Yei Bay, 610
Yoirabu Sima, 894
Yellow Bluff, 418
Yellow Island, 284, 297,
393
Yellow Point, 300
Yeno, 608
Yenoi Sima, 670
Yeo Island, 392
Yerabu Sima, 891
Yerba Buena, Cove of, 183
Yerba Buena Island, 189
Yerghin Shoal, 340
Yer-ra-bu, 900
Ye saki, 610
Yesan, Cape, 647
Yeso, 634
Yeso Island, 645, 653
Yetomo, Cape, 655
Yeterop Island, 566
Yew Point, 321
Yezo Island, 578, 596
Ykima Island, 900
Ykitsk Island, 668
Ykolik, Cape, 496
Ynarajan Bay, 803
Ynes, Punta, 134
Yobuko, 686
Yobuko Harbour, 668
Yodo-ngawa River, 611
Yodsibi Rock, 603
Yoka Sima, 668
Yoko, 607
Yokohama and Bay, 641
Yokoiso, Cape, 646
Yoko Sima, 893
Yori Sima, 895
York, Cape, 529
Yosino, 609
Yosino Bluff, 610
Youchin, Cape, 548
Younaska Island, 510
Young's Pt., 238, 401, 463
Young's River, Point & Bay,
239
INDEX.
Young's Bay, 239
Youp-nut River, 529
Ystapa, Morro de, 85
Yukon River, 523
Yule Island, 364
Yuma, Fort, 131
Yura and Fort, 613
Yura No Uchi, 617
Yuri, 606, 661
Zacatula River, 97
Zadan, Cerro de, 87, 90
Zakharovskaia Bay, 503
Zapatera, 48
Zapote, 48, 75
Zarembo Island, 455
Zarpane Island, 803
Zavalichine, Cape, 744
Zayas, Isle de, 443
Zealandia Rocks, 811
Zeballos Arm, 358
Zedzones Islands, 28
Zero Rock, 287, 289
Zipegua, Punta de, 85
Zoga Saki, 616
Zonzonate, 68
Zouboff Islands, 533
Zuciarte Channel, 353
Zuniga Point, 149, 150
Zuniga Shoal, 156
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