RECTUS
:
NON
JORUMGGACO
ELATUS.
Ichn Clarke Esqi
THIS BOOK
FORMS PART OF THE
ORIGINAL LIBRARY
OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
BOUGHT IN EUROPE
1838 TO 1839
BY
ASA GRAY
F
2221
U423
1760
12-116
Wllow, Antones De
A
Day
48771
VOYA GE
ΤΟ
SOUTH AMERICA
DESCRIBING AT LARGE,
The SPANISH CITIES, TOWNS, PROVINCES, &c.
on that extenfive CONTINENT.
INTERSPERSED THROUGHOUT
With REFLEXIONS on whatever is peculiar in the
RELIGION and CIVIL POLICY; in the GENIUS,
CUSTOMS, MANNERS, DRESS, &c. &c. of the
feveral Inhabitants; whether NATIVES, SPANIARDS,
CREOLES, INDIANS, MULATTOES, OF NEGROES.
TOGETHER WITH
The NATURAL as well as COMMERCIAL
HISTORY of the Country.
And an Account of their GOLD and SILVER MINES.
Undertaken by Command of the KING of SPAIN,
By Don GEORGE JUAN, and
Don ANTONIO DE ULLOA,
Both Captains of the SPANISH NAVY; and Members of the
ROYAL SOCIETIES of LONDON and BERLIN; and of
the ROYAL ACADEMY at PARIS.
Tranflated from the Original Spaniſh.
Illuftrated with Copper Plates.
VOL. II.
The SECOND EDITION, reviſed and corrected.
LONDON,
Printed for L. DAVIS and C. REYMERS,
againſt Gray's-Inn-Gate, Holbourn ;
Printers to the ROYAL SOCIETY.
MDCCLX.
60.
CONTENTS
:
OF
'
VOLUME the SECOND,
BOOK I.
Chap. I
Ourney from Quito to Truxillo.
tinuation of our journey to Lima.
Chap. 3. Account of Lima.
page I
Chap. 2. Arrival at Truxillo. Defcription of that city, con-
Chap. 4. Of the public entrance, &c. of the Vice-roy.
Chap. 5. Of the inhabitants of Lima.
P. 19
p. 29
P. 46
P. 32
Chap. 6. Of the climate; and of the whole country of Valles.
p. 64
Chap. 7. Inconveniences, distempers, and evils to which the city
Divifions of the feafons.
of Lima-is fubject.
;
Chap. 8. Fertility of the territories of Lima.
p. 78
Chap. 9. Provifions at Lima.
P. 93
Chap. 10. Trade and commerce of Lima.
P. 103
and dioceffes of that kingdom.
Chap. 11. Jurifdiction of the Vice-roy of Peru: of the audiences;
P. IC6
Chap. 12. Of the provinces in the dioceffes of Truxillo, Gua-
manga, Cufco, and Arequipa.
Chap. 14. Account of the three diocefes of La Pas, Santa Cruz
de la Sierra, and Tucuman, and of their respective pro-
Chap. 13. Of the audience of Charcas; the jurifdictions and
bishops fees in that archbishopric.
P. 112
p. 120
P. 141
vinces.
P. 156
Chap. 15. Account of Paraguay and Buenos Ayres. Miffions
of the Jefuits eftabliſhed in the former, their government and
police.
BOOK II.
P. 168
Chap. 1. Voyage from Callao to Paita, thence to Guayaquil, and
to Quito. Defcription of Paita.
P. 189
Cha
CONTENT S.
Chap. 2. Tranſactions at Quito. Unhappy occafion of our fut
den return to Guayaquil. Second journey to Lima. p. 195
Chap. 3. Voyage to Juan Fernandes. Account of the feas
winds in that Paffage.
and
P. 206
P. 232
Chap. 4. Account of Juan Fernandes. Voyage to Santa Maria.
Thence to the bay of Conception. Nautical remarks. p. 217
Chap. 5. Deſcription of the city of Conception, in the kingdom
of Chili; ravages it has fuffered from the Indians; its com-
merce and fertility.
Chap. 6. Defcription of Conception bay; its roads or harbours,
fifh, &c. fingular mines of hells in its neighbourhood. p. 246
Chap. 7. Defcription of the city of Santiago.
Chap. 8. Account of that part of the kingdom of Chili within the
juriſdiction of the audience of Santiago.
Chap: 9. Commerce of Chili. Account of the wild Indians
there.
p. 253
p. 258
P. 268
Chap. 10. Voyage to the islands of Juan Fernandes, and thence
to Valparaifo.
P. 279
Chap. 11. Foyage to Callao. Second return to Quito, third
journey to Lima.
BOOK III.
P. 285
Chap. 1, Departure from Callao, Arrival at Conception.
Voyage from thence to the island of Fernando de Norana. p.993
Chap. 2.Nautical obfervations in the Voyage round Cape Horns
Currents and winds commonly met with in that paſſage. A
table of the variations of the needle obfer wed in failing from
Conception to Fernando de Norona.
Chap. 3. Defcription of that iſland.
Chap. 4. Voyage from Fernando de Noroma.
with two English privateers.
P. 306
P. 317
Engagement
P. 326
Chap. 5. Voyage of the Delivrance to Louisbourg, zuhere he
was taken. Nautical remarks on the pallage. P. 335
Chap. 6. Don George Juan's l'oyage from La Conception
Guarico; thence to Breft. His return to Madrid. p. 347
Chap. 7. Account of the harbour and town of Louifbourg, and
of its being taken by the English. Of the French fishery, ›ảnà
the trade carried on there.
'P. 363
Chap. 8. The colony of Bofton; its rife, progrefs, and other
particulars.
p. 380
Chap. 9. Voyage from Louisbourg to Newfoundland; account
of that iſland and the Cod-fifhary. Voyage to England, p. 38.
A
A
YAGE
VOYA
то
SOUTH AMERICA.
BOOK I.
Account of our Journey to LIMA; with a De-
jcription of the Towns and SETTLEMENTS
on the Road, and of the City of LIMA.
CHAP. I..
Journey from QUITO, to TRUXILLO:
T
HE accidents to which human enterprizes
and attempts are generally expofed, direct,
with an inconftant, but wonderful harmo-
ny, the ſeries of our actions and adventures, and in-
troduce among them a great variety of alterations
and changes. It is this variety, which, in vegetation
embelliſhes nature, and equally difplays the glory
and wiſdom of the fupreme creator in the political
and rational world; where we admire the furprizing
diverſity of events; the infinity of human actions, and
VOL. II.
B
the
2
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
1
}
the different fchemes and confequences in politics,
the fucceffive chain of which, renders hiftory fo de-
lightful, and, to a reflecting mind, fo inftructive.
The inconftancy, fo often feen in things the moſt
folid and ftable, is generally one of the moft power-
ful obftacles, to the advantages which might other-
wife be derived from works of any duration. How-
ever great they are, either in reality, or idea, the per-
fection of them is not only impeded by the viciffitudes
of time, and the inconftancy of things, but they even
decline, and fall into ruins. Some, thro' want of pro-
per ſupport and incouragement; while others, from
the mind being wearied out by delays, difficulties,
and a thouſand embarrafements, are abandoned; the
imagination being no longer able to purſue its mag-
nificent ſcheme.
To meaſure fome degrees of the Meridian near the
equator, the principal intention of our voyage, if
confidered only in idea, and abſtractedly from the
difficulties which attended its execution, muft appear
eafy, and as requiring no great length of time; but
experience convinced us, that a work of fuch impor-
tance to the improvement of ſcience, and the intereft
of all nations, was not to be performed without de-
lays, difficulties and dangers; which demanded at-
tention, accuracy, and perfeverance. Befides the
difficulties neceffarily attending the requifite accuracy
of theſe obſervations, the delays we were obliged to
make in order to take them in the moſt favourable
feafons, the intervening clouds, the Paramos, and
difpofition of the ground were fo many obftacles to
our making any tolerable diſpatch; and theſe delays,
filled us with apprehenfions, that if any other accidents
fhould happen, the whole defign would be rendered
abortive, or at leaſt, fuffer a long interruption.
Ir has already been obíerved * that while we were
at Cuenca, finiſhing our aftronomical obfervations in
* Vol. 1. Chap. II. Book V.
that
CH. I.
.m
SOUTH AMERICA.
i
that extremity of the arch of the Meridian, we un-
expectedly received a letter from the marquis de Villa
Garcia, vice-roy of Peru, defiring us to come, with
all ſpeed to his capital, any delay on our part might
have been improper; and we were folicitous not to
merit an accufation of the leaft remiffneſs in his ma-
jefty's fervice. Thus we were under a neceffity of
fufpending our obfervations for fome time; though
all that remained was the fecond aftronomical obfer-
vation, northward, where the ſeries of our triangles
terminated.
THE Occafion of this delay, arofe from an ac-
count, received by the vice-roy, that war being
declared between Spain and England, the latter was
fending a confiderable fleet on fome fecret defigns
into thofe feas. Several precautions had been taken
to defeat any attempt; and the vice-roy, being
pleaſed to conceive that we might be of fome ufe to
him in acquiting himſelf with honour on this occaſion,
committed to us the execution of fome of his mea-
fures; giving us to underſtand, that the choice he
made of us, was the moft convincing proof of the
high opinion he entertain'd of our abilities; and in-
deed our obligations were the greater, as the diſtance
of four hundred leagues had not obliterated us from
his remembrance, of which he now gave us fo
honourable a proof.
ON the 24th of September 1740, the vice-roy's
letter was delivered to us, and we immediately re-
paired to Quito, in order to furnish ourfelves with
neceffaries for the journey.
EVERY thing being performed, we fet out from
that city on the 30th of October, and determined to
go by Guaranda and Guayaquil; for tho' there is a
road by land thro' Cuenca and Loja, yet the other
feemed to us the moft expeditious, as the ways are
neither fo bad, nor mules and other beafts of carriage
fo difficult to be met with. The long ftays in villages
B 2
were
4
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
were here alſo little to be apprehended, which are fre-
quently rendered neceffary in the other road by inun-
dations, rivers, and precipices.
ON the 30th of October we reached the Bodegas,
or warehouſes, of Babayoho, where taking a canoo
we went down the river to Guayaquil; and embark-
ing on board a fmall fhip bound for Puna, we an-
chored in that port November the 3d. At this place
we hired a large balza, which brought us thro'
the gulph to Machala. For tho' the uſual rout
is by the Salto de Tumbez, we were obliged to alter
our courfe, the pilot not being well acquainted with
the entrance of a creek, thro' which you pafs to the
Salto.
On the 5th in the morning our balza landed us on
the coaft of Machala, from whence we travelled by
land to the town, the diftance being about two thort
leagues. The next day we fent away our baggage in
a large canoo to the Salto de Tumbez; going myſelf
in the fame canoo, being difabled by a fall the pre-
ceding day. Don George Juan, with the fervants
followed on horſeback: the whole country being level,
is every where full of falt marshes, and overflows at
high water, fo that the track is not fufficient for two
to go a breaſt.
THE Salto where I arrived on the 7th at night, is a
place which ferves as a kind of harbour for boats and
fmall veffels. It is fituated at the head of fome creeks,
particularly that of Jambeli, between fourteen and
fixteen leagues from the coaft, but intirely deſtitute
of inhabitants, no fresh water being found in any
part of the adjacent country; fo that it only ferves
for landing goods configned to Tumbez, where they
are carried on mules, kept there for this purpofe;
and in this its whole trade confifts. The Salto is un-
inhabited; nor does it afford the leaft fhelter, all the
goods brought thither being depofited in a fmall
fquare; and, as rain is feldom or never known here,
there
CH. I.
5
SOUTH AMERICA.
1
there is little danger of their receiving any damage
before they are carried to Tum bez.
HERE, as along the fides of all the creeks, the
mangrove trees ftand very thick, with their roots
and branches fo interwoven as to be abfolutely im-
penetrable; tho' the fwarms of mofchetos are alone
fufficient to difcourage any one from going among
them. The only defence against thefe infects is, to
pitch a tent, till the beafts are loaded, and you again
move forward. The more inland parts, where the
tides do not reach, are covered with forefts of fmaller
trees, and contain great quantities of deer; but at
the fame time are infefted with tigers; fo that if the
continual ftinging of the mofchetos deprives tra-
vellers of their reft,. it alſo prevents their being fur-
prized by the tigers, of the fury of which there are
many melancholy examples.
On the 9th in the morning I arrived at the town of
Tumbez, fituated feven leagues from the Salto; the
whole country thro' which the road lies is intirely
wafte, part of it being overflowed by the tides, and
the other part dead fands, which reflect the rays
of the fun fo intenfely, as to render it neceſſary in
general to perform this journey in the night; for
travelling ſeven leagues thither, and as many back
without either water or fodder, is much too laborious
for the mules to undergo in the day time. A drove
of mules therefore never fets out from Tumbez for
the Salto, till an account arrives, generally by one of
the failors belonging to the veffel, of the goods being
landed, and every thing in readinefs; as it would
otherwiſe be loft labour, it being impoffible that the
mules ſhould make any ſtay there.
DON George Juan had reached Tumbez on the
8th, and tho' he did every thing in his power to
provide mules for continuing our journey, we were
obliged to wait there fome time longer. Nor could
we make any advantage of our stay here, except to
obferve
B 3
6
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
obferve the latitude, which we did on the ninth with
a quadrant, and found it to be 3° 13′ 16″ fouth.
NEAR Tumbez, is a river of the fame name, which
diſcharges itſelf into the bay of Guayaquil, almoſt
oppofite to the island of St. Clare. Barks, boats,
balzas, and canoos may go up and down this river,
being three fathom deep, and twenty-five broad;
but it is dangerous going up it in the winter feafon,
the impetuofity of its current being then increaſed by
torrents from the mountains. At a little diſtance
from the cordillera, on one fide of the banks of the
river, ſtands the town of Tumbez in a very fandy
plain, interfperfed with fome fmall eminences. The
town confifts only of feventy houfes, built of cane,
and thatched, ſcattered up and down without any
order or ſymetry. In theſe houſes are about one hun-
dred and fifty families of Meftizos, Indians, Mulat-
toes, and a few Spaniards. There are befides theſe
other families living along the banks of the river,
who having the conveniency of watering their grounds,
continually imploy themſelves in rural occupations.
THE heat is exceffive; nor have they here any
rain for feveral years fucceffively; but when it begins
to fall, it continues during the winter. The whole
country from the town of Tumbez, to Lima, con-
tained between the foot of the Cordillera and the fea,
is known by the name of Valles, which we mention
here, as it will often occur in the remaining parts of
this narrative.
TUMBEZ was the place where in the year 1526, the
Spaniards first landed in theſe parts of South
America, under the command of Don Francifco
Pizarro; and where he entered into feveral friendly
conferences with the princes of the country, but
vaffals to the Yncas. If the Indians were furprized
at the fight of the Spaniards, the latter were equally
fo at the prodigious riches which they every where
faw, and the largenefs of the' palaces, caſtles, and
temples:
CH. I.
7
SOUTH AMERICA.
temples; of all of which, tho' built of ftone, no
veftiges are now remaining.
ALONG the delightful banks of this river, as far as
the water is conveyed, maize, and all other fruits
and vegetables that are natives of a hot climate, are
produced in the greateft plenty. And in the more
diftant parts, which are deftitute of this advantage,
grows a kind of leguminous tree, called algarro-
bale, producing a bean, which ferves as food for
all kinds of cattle. It'refembles almoft that known
in Spain by the name of Valencia; its pod being
about five or fix inches long, and only four lines
broad, of a whitiſh colour, intermixed with veins of a
faint yellow. It proves a very ftrengthening food to
beaſts of labour, and is uſed in fattening thoſe for
the flaughter, which hence acquire a tafte remarkably
delicious.
ON the 14th, I arrived at the town of Piura,
where I was obliged to wait fome time for Don George
Juan, during which I entirely recovered from the
indifpofition I before laboured under from my fall.
HERE I experienced the efficacy of the calagu-
ala; which I happily found not to fall fhort of the
great reputation it has acquired in feveral parts of
Europe.
FROM the town of Tumbez, to the city of Piura,
is 62 leagues, which we performed in 54 hours, ex-
clufive of thofe we refted; fo that the mules, which
always travel one conftant pace, go fomething above
a league an hour. To the town of Amotape, the
only inhabited place in the whole road, is 48 leagues,
the remainining part is one continued defart. At
leaving Tumbez, its river is croffed in Balzas, after
which for about two leagues the road lies thro'
thickets of Algarrobal, and other trees, at the end of
which the road runs along the ſea coaſt, to Mancora,
24 leagues from Tumbez. In order to travel this.
road, an opportunity at low-water muſt be taken for
croffing
B 4
8
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
1
croffing a place called Malpaffo, about fix leagues
from Tumbez; for being a high fteep rock, waſhed
by the fea during the flood, and the top of it im-
paffable from the many chafms and precipices, there
is a neceffity of paffing between the fea and its bafis,
which is about half a league in length. And this
muſt be done before the flood returns, which foon
covers this narrow way, tho' it is very fafe at low-
water. During the remainder of this journey, it is
equally neceffary to confult the tide, for the whole
country being fandy, the mules would, from their
finking fo deep in it, be tired the first league or two.
Accordingly travellers generally keep along the fhore,
which being waſhed by the breaking of the waves,
the fand is more compact and firm; and confequently
much eaſier to the beafts. During the winter, there
runs thro' Mancora a fmall rivulet of freſh water, to
the great relief of the mules; but in fummer the
little remaining in its courfe is fo brackish, that no-
thing but abfolute neceffity can render it tolerable.
The banks of this rivulet are fo fertile by its water,
that it produces fuch numbers of large Algarrobales,
as to form a fhady foreſt.·
FROM Mancora, the road for fourteen leagues runs
between barren mountains, at fome diftance from the
coaſt, with very troubleſome aſcents and declivities,
as far as the breach of Parinnas; where the fame
cautions are to be obferved as at Mancora, and is the
fecond ſtage; from whence the road lies over a ſandy
plain, ten leagues in length, to the town of Amotape,
and at fome diſtance from the coaft.
This town, which ſtands in 4° 51′ 43″ South lati-
tude, is an appendix to the Pariſh of Tumbez, be-
longing to its lieutenancy, and in the jurifdiction of
Piura. The houſes are about 30 in number, and
compofed of the fame materials with thoſe of Tum-
bez; but the inhabitants are only Indians and Meſti-
zos. A quarter of a league from it is a river of the
fame
CH. I.
SOUTH AMERICA.
4
fame name, and whoſe waters are of fuch prodigious
uſe to the country, that it is every where cultivated,
and divided into fields, producing plenty of the ſeve-
ral grains, efculent vegetables, and fruits, natural to.
a hot climate; but like Tumbez, is infeſted with
Mofchitos. This river in fummer may be forded;.
but in winter when the torrents defcend from the
mountains it muſt be croffed in a balza, the rapidi-
ty of its current being then confiderably increaſed.
There is a neceffity for paffing it in going to Piura,
and after this for about four leagues the road lies
thro' woods of lofty Algarrobales. Theſe woods
terminate on a fandy plain, where even the moſt ex-
perienced drivers and Indians fometimes lofe their
way, the wind leveling thofe hills of fand, which
ferved as marks, and effacing all the tracks for-
merly made fo that in travelling this country, the
only direction is the fun in the day time, and the
ftars in the night; and the Indians being little ac-
quainted with the fituation of thefe objects, are often
bewildered, and expofed to the greatest hardships,
before they can again find their way.
FROM what has been faid the difficulties of travel-
ing this road may be conceived. Befides as far as
Amotape, not only all kinds of provifions muſt be
carried, but even water, and the requifites for kindling
a fire, unleſs your proviſion confiſts of cold meat.
In this laſt ſtage is a mine of cope, a kind of mineral
tar, great quantities of which are carried to Callao,
and other ports, being ufed in fhips instead of naphtha,
but has the ill quality of burning the cordage; its cheap-
nefs however induces them to uſe it mixed with naphtha.
THE city of Piura, which is at preſent the capi-
tal of its jurifdiction, was the first Spaniſh fettle-
ment in Peru. It was founded in the year 1531 by
Don Franciſco Pizarro, who alfo built the firft
church in it. This city was originally called San
Miguel de Piura, and ſtood in the valley of Targa-
+
fala,
V
10
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
$
fala, from whence on account of the badneſs of the
air it was removed to its prefent fituation, which is
on a fandy plain. The latitude of it is 5° IT I'
South, and the variation of the needle we obferved:
to be 8° 13′ Eafterly. The houſes are either of
bricks dried in the fun, or a kind of reeds called
Quinchas, and few of them have any ftory. Here
the Corregidor refides, whofe jurifdiction extends
on one fide along Valles, and on the other among
the mountains. Here is an office for the royal re-
venue, under an accomptant or treaſurer, who re-
lieve each other every fix months, one refiding at the
port of Paita, and the other in this place: At the
former for receiving the duties on imports for goods
landed there, and alfo for preventing a contraband
trade; and at the latter for receiving the revenues
and merchandizes on goods configned from the
mountains to Loja; or going from Tumbez to
Lima.
THIS city contains near fifteen hundred inhabi-
tants; and among theſe fome families of rank, be-
fides other Spaniards, Meftizos, Indians, and Mu-
lattoes. The climate is hot and very dry, rains being
feldomer known here than at Tumbez: notwithſtand-
ing which it is very healthy. It has a river of great
advantage to the inhabitants as well as the adjacent
country, the foil of which is fandy, and therefore
eafier penetrated by the water; and being level the
water is conveyed to different parts by canals. But
in the fummer the river is abfolutely deftitute of
water, the little which defcends from the mountains
being abſorbed before it reaches the city; fo that the
inhabitants have no other method of procuring water,
but by digging wells in the bed of the river, the
depth of which muſt be proportioned to the length of
time the drought has continued.
PIURA has a hofpital under the care of the Beth-
lemites; and tho' patients afflicted with all kinds of
diftempers
CH. I.
#x
SOUTH AMERICA.
distempers are admitted, it is particularly famous for
the cure of the French difeafe, which is not a little
forwarded by the nature of the climate. According-
ly there is here a great refort of perfons infected
with that infamous diftemper; and are reftored to
their former health by a lefs quantity of the fpecific
than is uſed in other countries, and alfo with greater
eaſe and expedition
As the whole territory of this juriſdiction with-
in Valles produces only the Algarroba, maize,
cotton, grain, a few fruits and efculent vegetables,
moſt of the inhabitants apply themſelves to the breed-
ing of goats, great numbers of which are continu-
ally fold for flaughter, and from their fat they make
foap, for which they are fure of a good market at
Lima, Quito, and Panama; their ſkins are dreffed
into leather called Cordovan, and for which there is
alſo a great demand at the above cities. Another
branch of its commerce is the Cabuya, or Pita, a
kind of plant from whence a very fine and ftrong
thread is made; and which abounds in the moun-
tainous parts of its jurifdiction. Great advantages
are alfo made from their mules, as all the goods
fent from Quito to Lima, and alfo thoſe coming
from Spain, and landed at the port of Paita, cannot
be forwarded to the places they are configned to but
by the mules of this province; and from the im-
menfe quantity of goods coming from all parts,
fome idea may be formed of the number of beafts
employed in this trade, which continues more or leſs
throughout the year; but is prodigious when the ri-
vers are fhallow.
DON GEORGE JUAN being arrived at Piura, every
thing was got ready with the utmoſt diſpatch, and
on the 21ft we continued our journey. The next
day we reached the town of Sechura, ten leagues
diſtant from Piura, according to the time we were
travel-
f
}
1
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK I.
travelling it. The whole country between theſe two
places is a level fandy defart.
THOUGH the badnefs and danger of the roads in
Peru fcarce admit of any other method of travelling
than on mules, yet from Piura to Lima there is a
conveniency of going in litters. Thefe inftead of poles
are ſuſpended on two large canes, like thofe of
Guayaquil, and are hung in fuch a manner as not to
touch the water in fording rivers, nor trike againſt
the rocks in the afcents or defcents of difficult roads.
As the mules hired at Piura perform the whole
journey to Lima, without being relieved, and in this
great diſtance, are many long defarts to be croffed,
the natural fatigue of the diftance, increaſed by the
fandineſs of the roads, render fome intervals of reft
abfolutely neceffary, efpecially at Sechura, becauſe on
leaving that town we enter the great defart of the
fame name. We tarried here two days: during
which we obferved the latitude, and found it 5° 32′
33 / // S.
THE original fituation of this town was contigu-
ous to the fea, at a fmall diftance from a point called
Aguja; but being deſtroyed by an inundation, it was
thought proper to build the preſent town of Sechu-
ra about a league diftance from the coaft, near a
river of the fame name, and which is fubject to the
fame alterations as that of Piura; for at the time we
croffed it no water was to be feen; whereas from the
months of February or March till Auguft or Septem-
ber, its water is fo deep and the current fo ftrong, as
to be paffed only in balzas; as we found in our fe-
cond and third journey to Lima. When the river is
dry the inhabitants make uſe of the above mentioned
expedient of digging wells in its beds, where they in-
deed find water but very thick and brackish. Se-
chura contains about 200 houfes of cane, and a
large and handfome brick church; the inhabitants
are
CH. I.
13
SOUTH AMERICA.
are all Indians, and confiſt of near 400 families,
who are all employed either as drivers of the mules
or fiſhermen. The houfes of all theſe towns are
quite fimple; the walls confifting only of common
canes and reeds, fixed a little way in the ground,
with flat roofs of the fame materials, rain being
hardly ever known here; fo that they have fufficient
light and air, both the rays of the fun and wind
eaſily finding a paffage. The Indian inhabitants of
this place ufe a different language from that common
in the other towns both of Quito and Peru; and
this is frequently the cafe in great part of Valles.
Nor is it only their language which diftinguiſhes
them, but even their accent; for befides their enun-
ciation which is a kind of melancholy finging, they
contract half of their laft words, as if they wanted
breath to pronounce them.
THE drefs of the Indian women in theſe parts,
confifts only of an Anaco, like that of the women of
Quito, except its being of fuch a length as to trail
upon the ground. It is alſo much larger, but
without fleeves, nor is it tied round them with a
girdle. In walking they take it up a little, and hold
it under their arms. Their head dreſs conſiſts of
cotton cloth laced or embroidered with different co-
lours; but the widows wear black. The condition
of every one may be known by their manner of
dreffing their hair, maids and widows dividing it
into two platted locks, one hanging on each ſhoulder,
whilft married women braid all their hair in one.
They are very induſtrious, and uſually employed in
weaving napkins of cotton and the like. The men
drefs in the Spaniſh manner; and confequently wear
fhoes; but the women none. They are naturally
haughty, of very good understandings, and differ
in fome cuſtoms from thofe of Quito. They are a
proof of what has been obſerved (Book VI. Chap. VI.
vol. 1.) with regard to the great improvement they
receive
2
34
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
receive from a knowledge of the Spaniſh language;
and accordingly it is fpoken here as fluently as
their own. They have genius, and generally fucceed
in whatever they a ply themfelves to. They are
neither fo fuperftitious, nor fo exceffively given to
vice as the others; fo that except in their colour
and other natural appearances, they may be faid to
differ greatly from them; and even in their propen-
fity to intemperance, and other popular cuftoms of
the Indians, a certain moderation and love of order
is confpicuous among thefe. But to avoid tedious
repetitions, I fhall conclude with obferving that all
the Indians of Valles from Tumbez to Lima are
induſtrious, intelligent, and civilized beyond what
is generally imagined.
THE town of Sechura is the laſt in the juriſdiction
of Piura, and its inhabitants not only refufe to fur-
nifh paffengers with mules, but alſo will not ſuffer
any perſon of whatever rank, to continue his jour-
ney, without producing the Corregidor's paffport.
The intention of this ftrictnefs is to fupprefs all a-
buſes in trade; for there being befides this road
which leads to the defart, only one other called the
Rodeo; one of them must be taken; if that of the
defart, mules must be hired at Sechura for carrying
water for the uſe of the loaded mules when they
have performed half their journey. This water is
put into large callebafhes, or fkins, and for every
four loaded mules one mule loaded with water is al-
lowed, and alfo one for the two mules carrying the
litter. When they travel on horſeback, the riders
carry their water in large bags or wallets made for
that purpoſe; and every one of the paffengers, whe-
ther in the litter or on horfeback, provides himſelf
with what quantity he thinks fufficient, as during
the whole journey nothing is feen but fand and hills
of it formed by the wind, and here and there, maf-
fes
24
1
CH. I.
15
SOUTH AMERICA.
ſes of falt: but neither fprig, herb, flower, or any
other verdure.
On the 24th we left Sechura, and croffed the de-
fart, making only fome fhort ftops for the eaſe of our
beaſts, ſo that we arrived the next day at five in the
evening at the town of Morrope, 28 or 30 leagues di-
ſtance from Sechura, tho' falfly computed more by the
natives. The extent and uniform aſpect of this plan,
together with the continual motion of the fand which
foon effaces all tracks, often bewilders the most
experienced guides, who however fhew their ſkill in
foon recovering the right way; for which they make
ufe of two expedients: 1ft, to obferve to keep the wind
directly in their face; and the reverſe upon their return;
for the fouth winds being conftant here, this rule cannot
deceive them: 2d, to take up a handful of fand at
different diſtances, and ſmell to it; for as the excre-
ments of the mules impregnate the fand more or lefs,
they determine which is the true road by the ſcent of
it. Thoſe who are not well acquainted with thefe
parts, expofe themfelves to great danger, by ftopping
to reft or fleep; for when they again fet forward, they
find themſelves unable to determine the right road;
and when they once have loft the true direction, it is
a remarkable inſtance of providence if they do not
periſh with fatigue or diftrefs, of which there are many
melancholy inftances.
Near
THE town of Morrope confifts of between 70 and
80 houſes, built like thofe in the preceeding towns;
and contains about 160 families, all Indians.
it runs a river called Pozuelos, fubject to the fame
changes as thofe above-mentioned; tho' the lands
bordering on its banks are cultivated, and adorned
with trees. The inftinct of the beafts ufed to this
road is really furprizing; for even at the distance of
four leagues, they fmell its water, and become fo
impatient that it would be difficulty to ftop them; ac-
cordingly
16
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
cordingly they purſue themſelves the ſhorteſt road,
and perform the remainder of the journey with re-
markable chearfulneſs and difpatch.
ON the 26th we left Morrope, and arrived at
Lambayeque, four leagues from it: and being ob-
liged to continue there all the 27th, we obſerved its
latitude, and found it 6° 41' 37" S.
This place
confiſts of about 1500 houſes, built fome of bricks,
others of bajareques, the middle of the walls being of
cane, and plaiſtered over, both on the infide and out-
fide with clay the meaneft confifts entirely of cane,
and are the habitations of the Indians. The number
of inhabitants amount to about 3000, and among
them, fome confiderable and opulent families; but the
generality are poor Spaniards, Mulattoes, Meftizos,
and Indians. The parish church is built of ſtone,
large and beautiful, and the ornaments fplendid. It
has four chapels called Ramos, with an equal number
of prieſts, who take care of the fpiritual concerns of
the Indians, and alſo attend, by turns, on the other
inhabitants.
THE reaſon why this town is fo populous is, that
the families which formerly inhabited the city of
Sana, on its being facked in 1685, by Edward Davis,
an Engliſh adventurer, removed hither; being under
a farther neceffity of changing their dwelling from a
fudden inundation of the river of the fame name, by
which every thing that had efcaped the ravages of the
Engliſh, was deftroyed. It is the refidence of a Cor-
regidor, having under his jurifdiction, beſides many
other towns, that of Morrope. One of the two
officers of the revenue appointed for Truxillo, refides
here. A river called alfo Lambayeque, waſhes this
place; which, when the waters are high, as they
were when we arrived here, is croffed over a wooden
bridge; but at other times may be forded, and often
is quite dry.
THE neighbourhood of Lambayeque, as far as the
induſtry
&
-
CH. I.
17
SOUTH AMERICA.
induſtry of its inhabitants have improved it, by canals
cut from the river, abounds in feveral kinds of vege-
tables and fruits; fome of the fame kind with thoſe
known in Europe, and others of the Creole kind,
being European fruits planted there, but which
have undergone confiderable alterations from the
climate. About ten leagues from it are efpaliers of
vines, from the grapes of which they make wine,
but neither fo good, nor in fuch plenty as in other
parts of Peru. Many of the poor people here, em-
ploy themſelves in works of cotton, as embroidered
handkerchiefs, quilts, mantelets, and the like.
ON the 28th, we left Lambayeque, and having
paffed thro' the town of Monfefu, about four or five
leagues diftant from it, we halted near the fea coaft,
at a place called Las Lagunas, or the Fens; thefe con-
taining freſh water left in them by the overflowings
of the River Sana. On the 29th we forded the river
Xequetepeque, leaving the town of that name, at the
diſtance of about a quarter of a league, and in the
evening arrived at the town of St. Pedro, twenty
leagues from Lambayeque, and the laſt place in its
jurifdiction. By obfervation we found its latitude to
be 7° 25′ 49″ S.
St. Pedro confifts of about 130 baxaraque houſes,
and is inhabited by 120 Indian families, 30 of whites
and Meſtizos, and 12 of Mulattoes. Here is a con-
vent of Auguftines, tho' it feldom confifts of above
three perfons, the prior, the prieſt of the town, and
his curate. Its river is called Pacafmayo, and all
its territories produce grain and fruits in abundance.
A great part of the road from Lambayeque to St.
Pedro, lies along the fhore, not indeed at an equal,
but never at a great diſtance from it.
On the 30th of November, we paffed through the
town of Payjan, which is the firft in the jurifdiction
of Truxillo, and on the firſt of December we reach-
ed that of Chocope, 13 or 14 leagues diftant from
VOL. II.
C
St.
18
Book I.
A VOYAGE ΤΟ
TO
St. Pedro. We found its latitude to be 7° 46′ 40″
S. The adjacent country being watered by the river
called Chicama, diftributed to it by canals, pro-
duces the greateft plenty of fugar canes, grapes,
fruits of different kinds, both European and Creole :
and particularly maize, which is the general grain
uſed in all Valles. From the banks of the river
Lambayeque to this place, fugar canes flouriſh near
all the other rivers, but none of them equal, either
in goodneſs or quantity, thofe near the river Chi-
cama.
CHOCOPE Confifts of betwixt 80 and 90 bax-
areque houſes, covered with earth. The inhabi-
tants, who are between 60 and 70 families, are
chiefly Spaniards, with fome of the other cafts; but
not above 20 or 25 of Indians. Its church is
built of bricks, and both large and decent. They
report here, as fomething very remarkable, that in
the year 1726, there was a continual rain of 40
nights, beginning conftantly at four or five in the
evening, and ceafing at the fame hour next morning,
the ſky being clear all the reft of the day. This
unexpected event, intirely ruined the houfes, and
even the brick church, fo that only fome fragments
of its walls remained. What greatly aftoniſhed the
inhabitants was, that during the whole time the
foutherly winds, not only continued the fame, but
blew with ſo much force, that they raiſed the ſand,
tho' thoroughly wet. Two years after a like phæno-
menon was feen for about eleven or twelve days, but
was not attended with the fame deftructive violence
as the former. Since which time nothing of this kind
has happened, nor had any thing like it been remem-
bered for many years before.
CHAP.
CH. II.
19
SOUTH AMERICA.
}
1.
CHA P. II.
Our arrival at TRUXILLO; a Defcription of
that City, and the Continuance of our Journey
to LIMA.
W
ITHOUT ftaying any longer at Chocope than
is uſual for refting the beafts, we continued
our journey, and arrived at the city of Truxillo, 11
leagues diftant, and according to our obfervations,
in 8° 6' 3" S. latitude. This city was built in the
Year 1535, by Don Franciſco Pizarro, in the valley
of Chimo. Its fituation is pleafant, notwithſtanding
the fandy foil, the univerfal defect of all the towns in
Valles. It is furrounded by a brick wall, and its
circuit entitles it to be claffed among cities of the third
order. It ſtands about half a league from the fea, and
two leagues to the northward of it is the port of
Guanchaco, the channel of its maritime commerce.
The houſes make a creditable appearance.
The ge-
appearance. The
nerality are of bricks, decorated with ftately balco-
nies, and fuperb porticos; but the other of baxare-
ques. Both are however low, on account of the fre-
quent earthquakes; few have fo much as one ftory.
The corregidor of the whole department refides in
this city; and alſo a biſhop (whole dioceſe begins at
Tumbez) with a chapter confifting of three dignita-
ries, namely, the dean, arch-deacon, and chanter;
four canons, and two prebendaries. Here is an
office of revenue, conducted by an accomptant and
treaſurer; one of whom, as I have already obferved,
refides at Lambayeque. Convents of feveral orders
are eſtabliſhed here; a college of Jefuits, an hofpital
of our lady of Bethlehem, and two nunneries, one of
the order of St. Clare, and the other of St. Tereſa.
THE inhabitants confift of Spaniards, Indians, and
C 2
all
20
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
all the other cafts. Among the former are feveral
very rich and diftinguished families. All in general
are very civil and friendly, and regular in their con-
duct. The women in their drefs and cuftoms follow
nearly thoſe of Lima, an account of which will be
given in the fequel. Great number of chaifes are ſeen
here, there not being a family of any credit without
one; as the fandy foil is very troubleſome in walking.
In this climate, there is a fenfible difference be-
tween winter and fummer, the former being attend-
ed with cold, and the latter with exceffive heat.
The country of this whole valley is extreamly fruitful,
abounding with fugar canes, maize, fruits, and
garden ftuff; and with vineyards and olive yards.
The parts of the country neareſt the mountains. pro-
duce wheat, barley, and other grain; fo that the in-
habitants enjoy not only a plenty of all kinds of pro-
vifions, but alſo make confiderable exports to Pana-
ma, eſpecially of wheat and fugars. This remarka-
ble fertility, has been improved to the great embel-
liſhment of the country; fo that the city is furround-
ed by feveral groves, and delightful walks of trees.
The gardens alfo are well cultivated, and make a
very beautiful appearance; which with a continual
ferene fky, prove not lefs agreeable to travellers than
to the inhabitants.
ABOUT a league from the city is a river whoſe
waters are 'conducted by various canals, through this
delightful country. We forded it on the 14th when
we left Truxillo; and, on the 5th after paffing thro'
Moche, we came to Biru, ten leagues from Truxillo.
The pafs of the corregidor of Truxillo muſt be pro-
duced to the alcalde of Moche, for without this, as be-
fore at Sechura, no perfon would be admitted to con-
tinue his journey.
1
BIRU, which lies in 8° 24′ 59″ S. latitude, con-
fifts of 50 baxareque houfes, inhabited by 70 families.
of Spaniards, Indians, Mulattoes and Meftizos.
About
}
CH. II.
21
SOUTH AMERICA.
About half a league to the northward of it, is a rivu-
let, from which are cut feveral trenches, for water-
ing the grounds. Accordingly the lands are equally
fertile with thofe of Truxillo, and the fame may be
faid of the other fettlements farther up the river.
This place we left the fame day, travelling fome-
times along the fhoar, fometimes at a league diftance
from it.
On the 6th we halted in a defart place called Tam-
bo de Chao, and afterwards came to the banks of the
river Santa; which having paffed by means of the
Chimbadores, we entered the town of the fame
name, which lies at about a quarter of a league from
it, and 15 from Biru. The road being chiefly over
vaft fandy plains, intercepted between two hills.
-
THE river Santa, at the place where it is ufually
forded, is near a quarter of a league in breadth, form-
ing five principal ftreams, which run during the
whole year with great rapid ty. It is always forded,
and for this purpoſe perſons make it their buſineſs to
attend with very high horfes, trained up to ftem the
current, which is always very ftrong. They are
called Chimbadores; and muſt have an exact know-
ledge of the fords, in order to guide the loaded mules
in their paffage, as otherwife the fording this river
would be ſcarce practicable, the floods often ſhifting
the beds of the river; fo that even the Chimbadores
themſelves are not always fafe: for the fords being
fuddenly changed in one of the ftreams, they are
carried out of their depth by the current, and irre-
trievably loft. During the winter feaſon, in the
mountains, it often fwells to fuch a height, as not to
be forded for ſeveral days, and the paffengers are ob-
liged to wait the fall of the waters, eſpecially if they
have with them any goods; for thoſe who travel with-
out baggage may, by going fix or eight leagues above
the town, pafs over it on balzas made of calabafhes:
tho' even here not without danger, for if the balze
C 3
happens
>
22.
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
+
I
2
happens to meet any ftrong current, it is fwept away
by its rapidity, and carried into the fea. When we
forded it, the waters were very low, notwithſtanding
which, we found from three feveral experiments made
on its banks, that the velocity of the current was
35 toifes in 29 feconds; fo that the current runs
4271 toifes, or a league and an half in an hour. This
velocity does not indeed equal what M. de la Conda-
mine mentions in the narrative of his voyage down
the river Maragnon, or that of the Amazones, at the
Pango, or ftreight of Manceriche. But doubtlefs,
when the river of Santa is at its ufual height, it ex-
ceeds even the celerity of the Pango; at the time of
making our obfervations, it was at its loweſt.
THE latitude of the town of Santa Miria de la
Parrilla, for fo it is alfo called, we determined by an
obfervation of fome ftars, not having an opportunity
of doing it by the fun, and found it 8" 57' 36" S.
It was firft built on the fea coaft, from which it is
now fomething above half a league diftant. It was
large, populous, the refidence of a Corregidor, and
had feveral convents. But in 1685, being pillaged
and deſtroyed by the above-mentioned English adven-
turer, its inhabitants abandoned it, and fuch as were
not able to remove to a place of greater fecurity,
fettled in the place where it now ftands. The whole.
number of houfes in it at preſent does not exceed
thirty; and of theſe the beſt are only of baxareque,
and the others of ftraw. Thefe houfes are inhabited
with about 50 poor families confifting of Indians,
Mulattoes, and Meftizos.
DURING Our obfervations we were entertained with
a fight of a large ignited exhalation, or globe of fire
in the air, like that mentioned in the first volume of
this work, tho' not fo large, and lefs effulgent. Its di-
rection was continued for a confiderable time towards.
the weft, till having reached the fea coaſt, it diſap-
peared with an exploſion like that of a cannon. Thoſe
who
ป
→
CH. H.
23
SOUTH AMERICA
1
1
who had not feen it were alarmed, and imagining it
to be a cannon fired by fome ſhip arrived in the port,
ran to arms, and haftened on horfeback to the fhore,
in order to oppofe the landing of the enemy. But
finding all quiet, they returned to the town, only
leaving fome centinels to fend advice, if any thing ex-
traordinary fhould happen. Thefe igneous phæno-
mena are ſo far from being uncommon all over
Valles, that they are feen at all times of the night,
and fome of them remarkably large, luminous, and
continuing a confiderable time.
THIS town and its neighbourhood are terribly in-
fefted with Mofchitos. There are indeed fome parts
of the year when their numbers decreaſe, and fome-
times, tho' very feldom, none are to be feen; but
they generally continue during the whole year. The
country from Piura upwards is free from this trou-
bleſome infect, except fome particular towns, fituat-
ed near rivers; but they fwarm no where in fuch
intolerable numbers as at Santa.
LEAVING this town on the 8th, we proceeded to
Guaca-Tambo, a plantation fo called, eight leagues di-
ftance from Santa, and contiguous to it is the Tambo,
an inn built by the Yncas for the uſe of travellers. It
has a fhed for the convenience of paffengers, and
a r.vulet running near it.
On the 9th we came to another plantation known
by the name of Manchan, within a league of which
we paffed through a village called Cafma la Baxa,
having a church, with not more than ten or twelve
houſes. Half way betwixt this and Manchan is ano-
ther rivulet. The latter plantation is about eight
leagues diftant from the former. From Manchan on
the tenth we travelled over thofe ftony hills called the
Culebras, extremely troublefome, particularly to the
litters, and on the following day being the 11th, we
entered Guarmey, 16 leagues from Manchan; and
after travelling about three leagues further we reached
C 4
the
}
24
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
the Pafcana, or refting place, erected instead of a
Tambo or inn, and called the Tambo de Culebras.
The town of Guarmey is but fmall and inconfidera-
ble, confifting only of 40 houſes, and theſe no better
than the preceding. They are inhabited by about 70
families, few of which are Spaniards. Its latitude is
10° 3′ 53″ S. The corregidor has obtained leave
to refide here continually, probably to be free from
the intolerable plague of the Mofchitos at Santa,
where formerly was his refidence.
ON the 13th we proceeded from hence to a place
called Callejones, travelling over 13 leagues of very
bad road, being either fandy plains, or craggy emi-
nences. Among the latter is one, not a little dange-
rous, called Salto del Frayle, or the Friar's leap. It
is an entire rock, very high, and, towards the fea,
almoſt perpendicular. There is however no other
way, tho' the precipice cannot be viewed without hor-
ror; and even the mules themſelves feem afraid of it
by the
great caution with which they take their ſteps.
On the following day we reached Guamanmayo, a
hamlet at fome diftance from the river Barranca, and
belonging to the town of Pativirca, about eight
leagues from the Callejones. This town is the laft
in the jurifdicttion of Santa or Guarmey.
PATAVIRCA Confifts only of 50 or 60 houſes, and
a proportional number of inhabitants; among whom
are fome Spaniſh families, but very few Indians.
Near the fea coaft, which is about three quarters of a
league from Guamanmago, are ftill remaining fome
huge walls of unburnt bricks; being the ruins of an
ancient Indian ftructure; and its magnitude confirms
the tradition of the natives, that it was one of the pa-
laces of the ancient cafeques, or princes; and doubt-
leſs its fituation is excellently adapted to that purpofe,
having on one fide a moſt fertile and delightful coun-
try, and on the other, the refreſhing profpect of the
fea.
ON
CH. II.
25
SOUTH AMERICA.
ON the 15th we proceeded to the banks of the
river Barranca, about a quarter of a league diftant.
We cafily forded it, under the direction of Chimba-
dores. It was now very low, and divided into three
branches, but being full of ftones is always dange-
rous. About a league further is the town of Bar-
ranca, where the jurifdiction of Guaura begins. The
town is populous, and many of its inhabitants
Spaniards, tho' the houfes do not exceed 60 or 70.
The fame day we reached Guaura, which from
Guamanmayo, makes a dittance of nine leagues.
THIS town confifts only of one fingle ſtreet, about
a quarter of a league in length, and contains about
150 or 200 houfes; fome of which are of bricks,
others of baxareques; befides a few Indian huts.
THIS town has a parish church, and a convent of
Francifcans. Near it you pafs by a plantation, ex-
tending above a league on each fide of the road,
which is every where extremely delightful; the
country eastward, as far as the eye can reach, being
covered with fugar-canes, and weftward divided into
fields of corn, maize, and other fpecies of grain.
Nor are theſe elegant improvements confined to
the neighbourhood of the town, but the whole val-
ley, which is very large, makes the fame beautiful ap-
pearance.
of the
AT the South-end of the town of Guaura, ftands
a large tower, with a gate, and over it, a kind of
redoubt. This tower is erected before a ſtone
bridge, under which runs Guaura river; and fo
near to the town that it waſhes the foundations
houfes, but without any damage, being a rock. From
the river is a fuburb which extends above half a
league, but the houfes are not contiguous to each
other; and the groves and gardens with which they
are intermixed, render the road very pleaſant. By
a folar obſervation, we found the latitude of Guaura
to be 11° 3' 36" S. The fky is clear, and the tem-
perature
26
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE
TO
perature of the air healthy and regular. For though-
it is not without a fenfible difference in the feafons,
yet the cold of the winter, and the heats of fummer
are both eaſily ſupportable:
IN proceeding on our journey from Guarmey we
met with a great many remains of the ediâces of the
Yncas. Some were the walls of palaces; others, as
it were large dykes, by the fides of fpacious high-
ways; and others fortreffes, or caftles, properly fi-
tuated for checking the inroads of enemies. One of
the latter monuments ftands about 2 or 3 leagues
North of Pativirca, not far from a river. It is the
ruins of a fort, and fituated on the top of an emi-
nence at a ſmall diſtance from the fea; but the ve-
ftiges only of the walls are now remaining.
FROM Guaura we came to the town of Chancay;
and though the diftance between this is reckoned
only twelve leagues, we concluded, by the time we
were travelling it to be at leaſt fourteen. From an
obſervation we found its latitude 11° 33' 47" S.
The town confifts of about 300 houſes, and In-
dian huts; is very populous, and among other in-
habitants can boaft of many Spaniſh families, and
fome of diſtinguiſhed rank. Befides its pariſh
church, here is a convent of the order of St. Francis,
and a hofpital chiefly fupported by the benevolence
of the inhabitants. It is the capital of the jurifdic-
tion of its name, and belongs to that of Guaura.
The Corregidor, whofe ufual refidence is at Chan-
cay, appoints a deputy for Guaura. The adjacent
country is naturally very fertile, and every where
well watered by canals cut from the river Paffamayo,
which runs about a league and a half to the South-
ward of the town. Theſe parts are every where
fowed with maize, for the purpoſe of fattening hogs,
in which article is carried on a very confiderable trade;
the city of Lima being furniſhed from hence.
We left Chancay the 17th; and after travelling
2
a
CH. 11.
27
SOUTH AMERICA.
a league beyond the river Paffamayo, which we
forded, arrived at the Tambo of the fame name, fi-
tuated at the foot of a mountain of fand, exceed-
ing troubleſome, both on account of its length,
ſteepness, and difficulty in walking; fo that it is ge-
nerally paffed in the night, the foil not being then fo
fatiguing.
FROM thence on the 18th we reached Tambo de
Yna, and after travelling 12 leagues from the town
of Chancay, we had at length the pleaſure of entering
the city of Lima.
PICS, STYR, AGIZA TY
FROM the diſtances carefully fet down during the
whole courſe of the journey, it appears that from
Tumbez to Piura is 62 leagues; from Piura to
Truxi:lo 89, and from Truxillo to Lima 113; in
all 264 leagues. The greateſt part of this long jour-
ney is generally performed by night; for the whole
country being one continued fand, the reflection of
the fun's rays, is fo violent, that the mules would be
overcome by the heat; befides the want of water,
herbage, and the like. Accordingly the road all
along, is rather diftinguiſhed by the bones of the
mules, which have funk under their burdens, than
by any track or path. For notwithſtanding they are
continually paffing and re-paffing throughout the
whole year, the winds quickly efface all the prints of
their feet. This country is alfo fo bare, that when
a fmall herb or fpring happens to be diſcovered, it
is a fure fign of being in the neighbourhood of hou-
fes. For theſe ftand near rivers, the moisture of
which fertilizes theſe arid waftes, fo that they pro-
duce that verdure not to be ſeen in the uninhabited
parts, as they are fuch, merely from their being de-
ftitute of water; without which no creature can ſubſiſt,
nor any lands be improved.
疲
​In the towns we met with plenty of all neceffary
provifions; as fleſh, fowl, bread, fruits, and wine;
all extreamly good, and at a reaſonable price; but
the
V
28
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
}
the traveller is obliged to drefs his meat himſelf, if
he has not fervants of his own to do it for him; for
in the greateſt parts of the towns he will not meet
with any one, inclinable to do him that piece of fer-
vice, except in the larger cities where the mafters of
inns furniſh the table. In the little towns, the inns, or
rather lodging-houſes, afford nothing but fhelter;
ſo that travellers are not only put to the inconveni-
ence of carrying water, wood and provifions from
one town to another, but alſo all kinds of kitchen
utenfils. Befides tame fowl, pigeons, peacocks and
geefe, which are to be purchaſed in the meaneſt
towns, all cultivated parts of this country abound in
turtle doves, which live intirely on maize and the
feeds of trees, and multiply exceedingly; fo that
fhooting them, is the ufual diverfion of travellers
while they continue in any town; but except theſe,
and ſome ſpecies of fmall birds, no others are to
be had during the whole journey. On the other
hand, no ravenous beafts, or venomous reptiles are
found here.
THE diftribution of waters by means of canals,
which extend the benefit of the rivers to diftant parts.
of the country, owes its origin to the royal care and
attention of the Yncas; who among other marks of
their zeal for promoting the happineſs of their ſub-
jects, taught them by this method, to procure from
the earth, whatever was neceffary either for their fub-
fiftance, or pleaſure. Among thefe rivers, many
are entirely dry or very low, when the waters ceaſe
to flow from the mountains; but others, as thofe of
Santa Baranca, Guaura, Paffamayo, and others, con-
tinue to run with a full ftream during the greateſt
drought.
·
THE ufual time when the water begins to increaſe
in theſe rivers is the beginning of January or Fe-
bruary, and continues till June, which is the winter
among the mountains; and, on the contrary, the
fummer
KT.
+
CH. III.
29
SOUTH AMERICA.
fummer in Valles; in the former it rains, while
in the latter the fun darts a violent heat, and the
fouth winds are fcarce felt. From June the waters
begin to decreaſe, and in November or December the
rivers are at their loweſt ebb, or quite dry; and this
is the winter feafons in Valles, and the fummer
in the mountains. So remarkable a difference is
there in the temperature of the air, tho' at fo fmall
a diſtance.
CHAP. III.
Account of the City of LIMA, the Capital of PERU.
F
ORTUITOUS events may fometimes, by their
happy confequences, be claffed among premedi
tated defigns. Such was the unforeſeen caufe which
called us to Peru; for otherwiſe the hiftory of our
voyage would have been deprived of a great many
remarkable and inftructive particulars; as our obfer-
vations would have been limited to the province of
Quito. But by this invitation of the vice-roy of
Peru, we are now enabled to lead the reader into
that large and luxuriant field, the fertile province of
Lima, and the fplendid city of that name, ſo juſtly
made the capital of Peru, and the queen of all the
cities in South America. It will alfo appear that our
work would have fuffered a great imperfection, and
the reader confequently diſappointed in finding no
account of thoſe magnificent particulars, which his
curiofity had doubtlefs promiſed itſelf, from a de-
fcription of this famous city, and an accurate know-
ledge of the capital province. Nor would it have
been any ſmall mortification to ourselves, to have
loft the opportunity of contemplating thofe noble
objects, which fo greatly increaſe the value of our
work, tho' already enriched with fuch aftronomical
obfervations
30
A VOYAGE TO.
BOOK I.
obfervations and nautical remarks, as we hope will
prove agreeable to the intelligent reader. At the
fame time it opens a method of extending our re-
fearches into the other more diſtant countries, for the
farther utility and ornament of this voyage; which,
as it was founded on the moft noble principles, fhould
be conducted and clofed with an uniform dignity.
My defign however is not to reprefent Lima in
its preſent ſituation, as I fhould then, inftead of noble
and magnificent objects, introduce the moft melan-
choly and fhocking fcenes; ruinated palaces,
churches, towers, and other ftately works of art,
together with the inferior buildings of which this opu-
lent city confifted, now thrown into ruin and confu-
fion; by the tremendous earthquake of October the
28th 1746; the affecting account of which reached Eu-
rope with the fwiftnefs which ufually attends unfortu-
nate advices, and concerning which, we fhall be more
particular in another place. I fhall not therefore de-
fcribe Lima, as wafted by this terrible convulfion of
nature; but as the emporium of this part of America,
and endeavour to give the reader an idea of its former
glory, magnificence, opulence, and other particulars
which rendered it fo famous in the world, before it
fuffered under this fatal catastrophe, the recollection
of which cannot fail of being painful to every lover of
his country, and every perſon of humanity.
THE city of Lima, or as it is alfo called the city
of the kings, was, according to Garcilafo, in his
hiſtory of the Yncas, founded by Don Francifco Pi-
zarro, on the feaſt of the Epiphany, 1535; tho' others
affirm that the firft ftone was not laid till the 18th of
January that year; and the latter opinion is confirmed
by the act, or record of its foundation, ftill preſerved
in the archives of that city. It is fituated in the
fpacious and delightful valley of Rimac, an Indian .
Word, and the true name of the city itſelf, from a
corrupt pronounciation of which word the Spaniards
have
Ancon
"
..
ཨ་
PLAN of LIMA
~
41-
jil
wwwwww
ཐོན
The PORT of CALLA O
Wolf Inands
Scale of Loifes.
www
00
かく
​3
*
.....
Rir
Road
....
טנר
Scale of Torses
མྨེ
་
ར་ར་
ས་མཁའ་�་
ཡཐརནར; པ
མནོལ
1. Callao
2. Lima
El Corcobado
Fronton
Ile of St Laurence
7
10
હ
2, The Llama or Peruvian Sheep. 4. The Calash used at Lima.
2. Vicogn.
3. The Huanove.
5. A Mestizo woman on horseback.
6. A Lady of Lima.
7. A Spaniard in the Peruvian drefs.
8. A Lady of Lima in a riding drejs.
JMynde jo.
9. A Mulatto woman, 10. A Negro servant.
CH. III.
31
SOUTH AMERICA.
have derived Lima. Rimac is the name by which
both the valley and the river are ftill called. This
appellation is derived from an idol to which the native
Indians uſed to offer facrifice, as did alſo the Yncas,
after they had extended their empire hither; and as it
was ſuppoſed to return anſwer to the prayers addreſſed
to it, they called it by way of diſtinction Rimac, or,
he who ſpeaks. Lima, according to feveral obferva-
tions we made for that purpoſe, ſtands in the latitude
of 12° 2′ 31″ S. and its longitude from the meridian
of Teneriffe is 299° 27′ 73". The variation of the
needle is 9° 2' 30" eafterly.
211
Its fituation is one of the moſt advantageous that
can be imagined; for being in the center of that ſpa-
cious valley, it commands the whole without any
difficulty. Northward, tho' at a confiderable diſtance,
is the cordillera, or chain of the Andes; from whence
fome hills project into the valley, the neareſt of which
to the city are thofe of St. Chriftopher, and Aman-
caes. The perpendicular height of the former, ac-
cording to a geometrical menfuration performed by
Don George Juan, and M. de la Condamine in 1737,
is 134 toifes; but father Fevilleé, makes it 136 toifes
and one foot, which difference doubtless proceeds from
not having meaſured with equal exactneſs, the baſe on
which both founded their calculations. The height
of the Amancaes, is little lefs than the former, and
fituated about a quarter of a league from the city.
THE 'river, which is of the fame name, waſhes
the walls of Lima, and when not increaſed by the
torrents from the mountains is eafily forded; but at
other times, befides the increafe of its breadth, its
depth and rapidity, render fording impoffible; and
accordingly a very elegant and fpacious ftone bridge
is built over it, having at one end a gate, the
beautiful architecture of which is equal to the other
parts of this uſeful ftructure. This gate forms the
entrance into the city, and leads to the grand fquare,
which
32
A VOYAGE TO
Book I
}
which is very large and finely ornamented. In the
center is a fountain, equally remarkable for its gran-
deur and capacity. In the center is a bronze itatue
of fame, and on the angles are four fmall bafons.
The water is ejected through the trumpet of the fta-
tue, and alfo through the mouths of eight lions
which furround it, and greatly heighten the beauty
of this work. The eaft fide of the fquare is filled
by the cathedral and the archiepifcopal palace, whofe
height furpaffes the other buildings in the city. Its
principal foundations, and the baſes of its columns and
pilafters, together with the capital front which faces
the weft, are of free-ftone; the infide reſembles that
of Seville, but not fo large. The outfide is adorned
with a very magnificent facade or frontispiece, ri-
fing into two lofty towers, and in the center is the
grand portal. Round the whole runs a grand gallery,
with a baluftrade of wood, refembling brafs, in co-
lour, and at proper diftances are feveral pyramids
which greatly augment the magnificence of the ftruc-
ture. In the north fide of the fquare is the vice-roy's
palace, in which are the feveral courts of juftice,
together with the officers of revenue, and the ftate
prifon. This was formerly a very remarkable building
both with regard to its largenefs and architecture,
but the greateſt part of it being thrown down by the
dreadful earthquake with which the city was vifited,
Oct. 20th, 1687, it now confifts only of fome of the
Jower apartments erected on a terras, and is uſed as
the refidence of the vice-roy and his family.
ON the Weft fide which faces the cathedral, is
the council-houfe, and the city prifon; the South
fide is filled with private houfes, having only one
ftory; but the fronts being of ftone, their uniformity,
porticoes, and elegance, are a great embelliſhment to
the fquare, each fide of which is 80 toifes.
THE form of the city is triangular, the baſe, or
longeſt fide, extending along the banks of the river.
Its
CH. III.
33
SOUTH AMERICA.
Its length is 1920 toifes, or exactly two thirds of a
league. Its greateſt breadth from N. to S. that is,
from the bridge to the angle oppofite to the bafe, is
1080 toiſes, or two fifths of a league. It is fur-
rounded with a brick wall, which anſwers its original
intention, but is without any manner of regularity.
This work was begun and finiſhed by the duke de
la Palata in the year 1685. It is flanked with 34
baftions, but without platforms or embraſures; the
intention of it being merely to incloſe the city, and
render it capable of fuftaining any fudden attack of
the Indians. It has, in its whole circumference, ſeven
gates, and three pofterns.
On the fide of the river oppofite to the city is a
fuburb, called St. Lazaro, which has, within thefe
few years, greatly increaſed. All the streets of this
fuburb, like thofe of the city, are broad, parallel,
or at right-angles, fome running from N. to S. and
others from E. to W. forming ſquares of houfes, each
150-yards in front, the ufual dimenfions of all theſe
quadras or fquares in this country, whereas thoſe of
Quito are only 100. The ſtreets are paved, and along
them run ſtreams of water, conducted from the river
a little above the city; and being arched over contri-
bute to its cleanlinefs, without the leaft inconveniency.
THE houſes, though for the moft part low, are
commodious, and make a good appearance. They
are all of Baxareque, and Quincha. They appear
indeed to be compofed of more folid materials, both
with regard to the thickneſs of the principal walls,
and the imitation of cornices on them; and that
they may the better fupport themfelves under the
fhocks of earthquakes, of which this city has had
fo many dreadful inftances, the principal parts are
of wood, mortifed into the rafters of the roof, and
thoſe which ferve for walls are lined both within and
without with wild canes, and chagllas or ofiers; fo
that the timber work is totally inclofed. Thefe ofiers
VOL. II.
D
are
34
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
are plaſtered over with clay, and white-wafhed, but
the fronts painted in imitation of free-ftone. They
afterwards add cornices and porticos which are alſo
painted of a ſtone colour. Thus the whole front im
pofes on the fight, and ftrangers fuppofe them to be
built of thoſe materials which they only imitate. The
roofs are flat, and covered only fo far as is neceffary
to keep out the wind and intercept the rays of the
fun. The pieces of timber, of which the roofs are
formed, and which on the infide are decorated with
elegant mouldings and other ornaments, are covered
with clay to preferve them from the fun. This flen-
der covering is fufficient as no violent rains are ever
known here. Thus the houfes are in lefs danger than
if built of more compact materials; for the whole
building yields to the motions of the earthquakes, and
the foundations which are connected with the feveral
parts of the building follow the fame motion; and
by that means are not fo eafily thrown down.
น
The
THE wild canes, which ferve for the inner parts
of the walls, refemble in length and bignefs, thofe
known in Europe, but without any cavity. The wood
of them is very folid, and little ſubject to rot.
chaglla is alfo a kind of fhrub growing wild in the
forefts and on the banks of rivers. It is ftrong and
flexible like the ofier. Theſe are the materials of
which the houſes in all the towns of Valles mentioned
in the preceding chapter, are built.
TOWARDS the eaſt and weft parts of the city, but
within the walls, are a great many fruit and kitchen
gardens; and moſt of the principal houfes have gar-
dens for entertainments, being continually refreſhed
with water by means of the canals.
THE whole city is divided into the five following
pariſhes. 1. Sagrario, which has three priefts. 2. St.
Ann, and 3. St. Sebaftian, each having two prieſts.
4. St. Marcelo, and 5. St. Lazaro, each of which has
one prieft only. The parifh of the latter extends it-
felf
CH. III.
35
SOUTH AMERICA;
felf five leagues, namely to the valley of Carabaillo,
and to it belong the many large plantations in that
ſpace; chapels are therefore erected for celebrating
mafs on days of precept, that the people may perform
their duty without the fatigue and trouble of travell-
ing to Lima. Here are alfo two chapels of eaſe, that
of St. Salvador in the parish of St. Ann; and that of
the orphans, in the Sagrario. There is alfo in the
Cercado, one of the quarters of the town,
Indians, under the care of the Jefuits.
a parish of
THE Convents here are very numerous; four Do-
minicans, viz. La Cafa grande, Recolleccion de la
Magdalena, the college of St. Thomas, appropriated
to literature, and Santa Rofa. Three of Francifcans,
viz. Cafa grande, Recoletos de nueftra Senora de los
Angeles, or Guadalupe, and Los Defcalzos de San
Diego, the latter is in the fuburb of San Lazaro.
Three of the order of Auguftin, namely Cafa
grande; the Seminary of San Ildefonso, a literary
college; and the noviciate at Nueftra Senora de Guia.
Three alſo belong to the order of Mercy, namely, the
Cafa principal, the college of St. Pedro Nolafco, and
a Recolleccion, called Bethlehem.
THE Jefuits have fix colleges or houſes, which
are thofe of St. Paul, their principal college; St.
Martin, a college for fecular ftudents; St. An-
thony, a noviciate; the houſe of poffeffion, or de-
famparados, under the invocation of Nueftra Senora
de los Dolores; a college in the Circado, where the
Indians are inſtructed in the precepts of religion;
and that of the Chacarilla, appointed for the exerci-
fes of St. Ignatius; and accordingly all feculars on
their defire to perform them are admitted. They
are alfo allowed the liberty of beginning when moft
convenient for themſelves, and are handſomely en-
tained by the college during the eight days of their
continuance. But it muſt be obſerved, that of all
thefe convents, the Cafas grandes, are now the moſt
D 2
con-
36
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
}
confiderable; the others, befides being fmall, have but
few members, and ſmall revenues.
BESIDES the preceding nineteen convents and col-
leges, here are alfo an oratory of St. Philip Neri; a
monaftery of the order of St. Benedict, with the title
of Nueftra Senora de Monferrat, the abbey of which
is commonly the only member, and fent from Spain;
and though this foundation is one of the moſt anci-
ent in the whole city, its revenue is hardly fufficient
to fupport any more: a convent called Nueftra Se-
nora de la Buena Muerte, or the order of that name,
generally known by the name of Agonizantes. This
order founded a hofpital in the city, in 1715, under
the particular direction of the fathers Juan Mugnos,
and Juan Fernandez, who with a lay brother of the
fame order having in 1736, obtained a licenſe from
the council of the Indians, went from Spain and founded
a convent of community in every form. In the fuburb
of St. Lazaro is alfo a convent of St. Francis de Paula,
a modern foundation, under the name of Nueftro Se-
nora del Scorro.
THERE are alfo in Lima three other charitable
foundations, namely St. Juan de Dios, ferved by the
religious of that order, and appropriated to the re-
lief of perfons recovering from fickneſs; and two of
Bethlemites; one of which, being the Cafa grande,
is without the city, and founded for the relief of fick
Indians, who are taken care of in Santa Ana; and
the other within the city, called that of the incura-
bles, being appropriated to perfons labouring under
diſeaſes of that nature. The latter, as we have al-
ready obferved,* was founded fo early as the year
1671. This opulent city has alfo nine other hofpi-
tals, each appropriated to fome peculiar charity.
1. San Andres, a royal foundation, admitting only
Spaniards.
* Chap. IV. Lib. V. Vol. I.
2. San
CH. III.
37
SOUTH AMERICA.
2. San Pedro, for poor eccleſiaſtics.
3. El Eſpiritu Santo, for mariners, and ſupported
by the ſhips belonging to theſe feas, their crews being
properly affeffed for that purpoſe.
4. San Bartholome, for the negroes.
5. Senora Santa Ana, for the Indians.
6. San Pedro de Alcantara for women.
7. Another for that uſe, under the care of the Beth-
lemite fathers, erected before their Cafa grande.
8. La Caridad alfo for women.
9. San Lazaro, for the lepers, which with thofe al-
ready enumerated, make twelve.
Here are alſo 14 nunneries, the number of perfons-
in which would be fufficient to people a ſmall town.
The 5 firſt are regulars, and the other 9 recollects.
1. La Encarnation. 2. La Conception. 3. San-
ta Cathalina. 4. Santa Clara. 5. La Trinidad. 6.
El Carmen. 7. Santa Terefa, ò El Carmen baxo. 8.
Las Defcalzas de San Jofeph. 9. Las capuchinas.
10. Las Nazarenas. II. Las Mercidarias.
Santa Rofa. 13. Las Trinitarias Deſcalzas. 14.
Las Monjas del Prado.
12.
Laftly, here are four other conventual houſes,
where fome few of the fifters
are not reclufes, tho'
Thefe houſes are:
1. Santa Rosa de Viterbo. 2. Nueſtra Senora del
Patrocinio. 3. Nueftra Senora de Capacabana, for
Indian ladies. 4. San Jofeph.
moſt of them obferve that rule.
The laft is a retreat for women who defire to be di-
vorced from their hufbands. There is alfo a houfe con-
ſtituted in the manner of convents, for poor women,
and under the direction of an ecclefiaftic appointed by
the archbiſhop, who is alſo their chaplain.
THE most numerous of all theſe nunneries, are
the Incarnation, Conception, Santa Clara, and Santa
Cathalina. The others are indeed not fo large;
but the Recollects in the rectitude and aufterity of
their lives, are an example to the whole city.
D 3
HERE
38
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
HERE is alſo an orphan-houfe, divided into two
colleges, one for the boys, and the other for the girls:
befides feveral chapels, in different parts of the city;
but the following lift will fhew at once, the parishes,
hoſpitals, churches and monafteries of Lima; which
was always no lefs confpicuous with regard to a zeal
for religion than for fplendor.
LIST of the parishes, convents of each order, ho-
fpitals, nunneries, and conventual houſes in Lima.
Parishes 6.
'CONVENTS of San Domingo, 4. Of San Fran-
ces, 3. Of San Auguftin, 3. Of la Merced, 3.
COLLEGES of Jeſuits, 6.
ORATORY of St. Philip Neri, 1.
MONASTERY of Benedictins, I.
de Paula, 1. Of Agonizantes, I.
Dios, 1. Of Bethlemites, 2.
Of San Franciſco
Of San Juan de
NUNNERIES of Regulars, 5. Of Recollets, 9.
CONVENTUAL houfes, 4. Houſe for poor wo-
men, 1. Orphan houſe, 1. Hoſpitals, 12.
an
ALL the churches, both conventual and parochial,
and alfo the chapels, are large, conſtructed partly of
ſtone, and adorned with paintings and other decora-
tions of great value; particularly the cathedral, the
churches of St. Dominic, St. Francis, St. Auguſtin,
the fathers of Mercy, and that of the Jefuits, are fo
fplendidly decorated, as to furpaſs deſcription;
idea being only to be formed by the fight. The
riches and pomp of this city, eſpecially on folemn fe-
ftivals, is aſtoniſhing. The altars, from their very
baſes to the borders of the paintings, are covered
with maffive filver, wrought into various kinds of
ornaments. The walls alſo of the churches are hung
with velvet, or tapestry of equal value, adorned with
gold and filver fringes all which in this country, is
remarkably dear; and on theſe are fplendid pieces of
plate in various figures. If the eye be directed from
the
CH. III.
39
SOUTH AMERICA.
the pillars, walls and ceiling, to the lower part of the
church, it is equally dazzled with glittering objects,
preſenting themſelves on all fides; among which are
candleſticks of maffive filver, fix or feven feet high,
placed in two rows along the nave of the church; em-
boffed tables of the fame metal, fupporting fmaller
candleſticks; and in the intervals betwixt them pedeſtals
on which ſtand the ftatues of angels. In fine the whole
church is covered with plate, or fomething equal to it
in value; fo that divine ſervice, in theſe churches, is
performed with a magnificence fcarce to be imagined;
and the ornaments, even on common days, with re-
gard to their quantity, and richneſs, exceed thoſe
which many cities of Europe pride themſelves with
diſplaying on the most common occafions.
IF fuch immenfe riches are beſtowed on the body
of the church, how can imagination itſelf form an
idea of thofe more immediately ufed in divine wor-
fhip, fuch as the facred veffels, the chalices, often-
foriums, &c. in the richneſs of which there is a fort
of emulation between the feveral. churches. In theſe
the gold is covered with diamonds, pearls, and pre-
cious ftones, fo as to dazzle the eye of the fpectator.
The gold and filver ftuff for veftments and other de-
corations, are always of the richeſt and moſt valuable
among thoſe brought over by the regiſter fhips. In
fine, whatever is employed in ornamenting the churches,
is always the richeft of the kind poffible to be pro-
cured.
THE principal convents are very large, with con-
venient and airy apartments. Some parts of them, as
the outward walls which inclofe them, are of un-
burnt bricks; but the building itfelf of quinchas or
baxareques. The roofs of many are arched with brick,
others only with quinchas; but of fuch curious archi-
tecture as entirely to conceal the materials; fo that
the frontifpieces, and principal gates have a majestic
appearance. The columns, freizes, ftatues and cornices
>
D 4
are
!
40
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
L
are of wood, finely carved, but fo nearly imitating
the colour and appearance of ſtone, as only to be dif-
covered by the touch. This ingenious imitation does
not proceed from parfimony, but neceffity; in order to
avoid as much as poffible the dreadful devaſtations of
earthquakes, which will not admit of ftructures built
with ponderous materials.
THE churches are decorated with fmall cupolas of
a very pretty appearance; and though they are all of
wood, the fight cannot diftinguiſh them from ſtone.
The towers are of ftone from the foundation the
height of a toife and a half, or two toifes, and from
thence to the roof of the church of brick, but the
remainder of wood painted of a free-ftone colour,
terminating in a ftatue, or image alluding to the
name of the church. The height of theſe may be
nearly known from that of St. Dominic, which by a
geometrical menfuration we found to be between 50
and 60 yards; a height which tho' fmall in propor-
tion to the largenefs of the ftructure, is a neceſſary
caution both with regard to the fhocks of earth-.
quakes, and the weight of the bells, which in fize and
number exceed thofe of Spain, and on a general
ringing produce a very agreeable harmony.
ALL the convents are furniſhed with water from
the city, though not from that of the rivulets, which,
as we before obferved, run through the streets in
covered channels; but brought from a fpring by
means of pipes. While on the other hand, both
the monafteries and nunneries are each obliged to
maintain a fountain in the ftreet, for the public ufe
of poor people, who have not the conveniency of
water in their houſes.
THE Vice-roys whofe power extends over all Peru,
ufually refide at Lima; but the province and audi-
ence of Quito has been lately detached from it; as
we have obferved in our account of that province.
government is triennial, though at the expiration
This
of
:
CH. III.
41
SOUTH AMERICA.
of that term the fovereign may prolong it. This office
is of fuch importance, that the vice-roy enjoys all the
privileges of royalty. He is abfolute in all affairs,
whether political, military, civil, criminal, or relating
to the revenue, having under him offices and tribunals
for executing the ſeveral branches of government; ſo
that the grandeur of this employment is in every par-
ticular equal to the title. For the fafety of his perfon
and the dignity of his office, he has two bodies of
guards; one of horſe, confifting of 160 private men,
a captain, and a lieutenant: Their uniform is blue,
This
turn'd up with red, and laced with filver.
troop confifts entirely of picked men, and all Spa-
niards. The captain's poft is eſteemed very honoura-
ble. Thefe do duty at the principal gate of the pa-
lace; and when the vice-roy goes abroad, he is at-
tended by a piquet guard confifting of eight of theſe
troopers. The 2d is that of the halbadiers, confifting
of 50 men, all Spaniards; dreffed in a blue uniform,
and crimſon velvet waiſtcoats laced with gold. Theſe
do duty in the rooms leading to the chamber of au-
dience, and private apartments. They alſo attend
the vice-roy, when he appears in public, or vifits the
offices, and tribunals. The only officer of this body.
is a captain, whofe poft is alfo reckoned very emi-
nent. Both captains are nominated by the vice-roy.
Befides theſe there is another guard within the palace,
confifting of 100 private men, a captain, lieutenant
and ſub-lieutenant; being a detachment from the
rifon of Callao. Thefe are occafionally employed in
executing the governour's orders, and the decrees of
the tribunals, after they have received the ſanction of
his affent.
gar-
THE vice-roy, befides affifting at the courts of
juſtice, and the councils relating both to the finances
and war, gives every day public audience to all forts
of perfons; for which purpoſe there are in the pa-
lace, three very grand and fpacious rooms. In the
firſt,
42
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
1
firft, which is adorned with the portraits of all the
vice-roys, he receives the Indians and other cafts.
In the fecond, he gives audience to the Spaniards;
and in the third, where, under a rich canopy are placed
the pictures of the king and queen then reigning, he
receives thoſe ladies who defire to ſpeak to him in
private without being known,
THE affairs relating to the government are expe-
dited by a fecretary of ftate, with an affiftant, pro-
perly qualified for fuch an arduous poft. From this
office are iffued the orders for paffports which muſt
be had from every Corregidor in his jurifdiction.
The ſecretary has alfo the power of filling all juri-
dical employments as they become vacant, for the
term of two years; as alfo thofe of the magiftracy,
who at the expiration of their term, have not been
replaced by others of his majeſty's nomination. In
a word this office may be faid to be the channel by
which all affairs relating both to war and government
are tranfacted.
ALL cauſes relating to juſtice, are tried in the
court called the Audiencia, from the decrees of which
there is no appeal to the fupreme council of the In-
dies, unleſs after notorious injuftice or a fecond trial;
as the vice-roy himſelf prefides in it. The Audiencia
which is the chief court at Lima, is compofed of 8
auditors or judges, and a fifcal, for civil caufes. This
court is held in the vice-roy's palace, in the 3 faloons
appropriated to it. In one the deliberations are held,
and in the other two, the caufes are tried either pub-
lickly or privately, the fenior judge always prefiding.
Criminal caufes are tried in a 4th apartment, the
judges being 4 Alcaldes of the court, and a criminal
fifcal. There is alfo a fifcal protector of the Indians,
and fome fupernumeraries.
NEXT to the tribunal of audience, is the chamber
of accounts, confifting of a commiffioner, five chief
accomptants, two receivers, and two directors, with
other
...
!
CH, III.
43
SOUTH AMERICA.
other inferior officers belonging to each clafs. Here
all Corregidors, intrufted to collect the revenue, pafs
their accounts. Here alfo the diſtributions and ma-
nagements of the royal revenue are regulated.
LASTLY, the royal treafury, under a treaſurer,
accomptant, and agent, who have the fuperintend-
ance of all his majeſty's revenue of what kind ſoever;
fince whatever revenue arifes from the other parts
of this province is remitted to Lima as the capital of
the kingdom.
THE Corporation of Lima, çonfifts of regidores or
aldermen, an alferez real, or theriff; and two alcaldes,
or royal judges; all being noblemen of the firſt dif-
tinction in the city. Theſe have the direction of the
police, and the ordinary adminiftration of justice,
The alcaldes preſide alternately every month; for by a
particular privilege of this city, the jurifdiction of its
corregidor extends only to the Indians.
HERE is a court for the effects of deceaſed perfons,
which takes cognizance of the goods of thofe dying
inteftate, and without lawful heir; and likewife of
thofe entruſted with the effects of other perfons. It
confifts of a judge, who is generally one of the audi-
tors, a counſellor, and an accomptant.
THE next tribunal is that of commerce, or the
Confulado. Its principal officers are a prefident and
two confuls. All who are entered in the lift of mer-
chants are members of it, and have a vote in the
choice of thefe officers, who, with an affeffor, decide
all commercial difputes and proceffes, by the fame
rules as the confulados at Cadiz and Bilboa.
LIMA has alſo a corregidor, whofe juriſdiction ex-
tends to all Indians both within the city and five
leagues round it. The principal places in this jurif
diction are Surco, Los Chorrillos, Miraflores, la
Magdalena, Lurigancho, Late, Pachacama, and Lu-
rin, together with the Indian inhabitants of the two
fuburbs of Callao, called new and old Pitipiti. The
infinite
44
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
1..
infinite number of Indians who inhabited this valley
before and at the time of the conqueft, are now re-
duced to the few inhabitants of the abovementioned
places; and have only two Cafiques, namely thoſe of
Miraflures and Sureo, and thefe in fuch low circum-
ftances as to teach mufic at Lima for fubfiftence.
THE cathedral chapter, befides the archbishop,
confifts of the dean, archdeacon, chanter, treaſurer, and
rector, four canons by fuffrage, five by prefentation,
fix prebendaries, and fix femi-prebendaries; but the
ecclefiaftical tribunal confifts only of the archbishop
and his chancellor. His fuffragans are the biſhops of
Panama, Quito, Truxillo, Guamanga, Arequipa,
Cuzco, St. Jago, and Conception; the two laft are in
the kingdom of Chili.
THE tribunal of inquifition conſiſts of two inqui-
fitors, and a fifcal, who like the fubordinate officers,
are nominated by the inquifitor general; and in cafe
of a vacancy, filled up by the ſupreme council of the
inquifition.
THE tribunal of the Cruzada, is conducted by a
fub-deligate commiffary, an accomptant, and treafu-
rer, with other inferior officers. But the dean, or
fenior judge of the audience, generally affifts at its
deliberations.
LASTLY, here is alfo a mint with its proper offi-
cers, where the gold and filver are coined.
In the univerſity and colleges, the happy 'geniufes
of the natives are improved by divine and human
learning, and as we fhall fhew in the fequel, foon
give elegant fpecimens of their future acquifitions.
They are in this much more indebted to nature than
either to art or their own application; and if they do
not equally diftinguish themſelves in other ftu-
dies, it is not from want of talents, but of pro-
per perſons to inftruct them in the neceffary elements.
For by their ready comprehenfion of whatever is
taught them, we may conclude, that their abilities
are
CH. III.
45
SOUTH
AMERICA.
are equal to other improvements. The chief of theſe
feminaries is the univerfity of St. Mark, and the
colleges of St. Toribio, St. Martin, and St. Philip.
In the former are chairs for all the fciences, and filled
by fuffrage; a method always favourable for perfons
of learning and underſtanding. Some of theſe pro-
feffors, have, notwithstanding the vaft diftance, gained
the applauſe of the literati of Europe.
The univerſity makes a ſtately appearance without,
and its infide is decorated with fuitable ornaments. It
has a large fquare court, with a handfome vaulted
piazza round it. Along the fides are the halls, where
lectures are read; and in one of its angles is the theatre
for the public acts, adorned with the portraits of the
feveral great men who had their education in this feat
of learning, in frames finely ornamented with ſculpture,
and richly gilded; as are alſo the two rows of feats
which extend entirely round the theatre.
FROM what has been faid it fufficiently appears,
that Lima is not only large, magnificent, and di-
ftinguiſhed, as the capital of the kingdom, by the
refidence of the vice-roy, and the fuperior courts and
offices, but alſo that it has an acknowledged fuperiority
over the other cities in theſe parts, from the public
nurſeries erected for the advancement of learning and
the ſciences.
THE richneſs of the churches, and the fplendor
with which divine fervice is performed, we have al-
ready defcribed. The magnificence of its inhabitants
and of its public folemnities are proportional, and
difplayed with a dignity peculiar to minds inflamed
with a defire of honour, and who value themſelves
on celebrating the principal folemnities in a manner,
which diſtinguiſhes Lima from the other cities of its
kingdom: Tho' the latter are not wanting in their en-
deavours to vie with their capital.
Of all the folemnities obferved in America, the
public
~
46
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK I.
public entrance of the vice-roy, is the moſt ſplendid;
and in which the amazing pomp of Lima is particu-
Iarly difplayed. Nothing is feen but rich coaches and
calafhes, laces, jewels, and fplendid equipages, in
which the nobility, carry their emulation to am
aftoniſhing height. In a word this ceremony is fo re-
markable, that I flatter myſelf the reader will not be
diſpleaſed at the deſcription.
CHAP. IV.
Of the public Entrance of the Vice-Roy at LIMA ;
his Reception, and the chief annual Solentnities.
ON
N the landing of the vice-roy at Paita, two hun-
dred and four leagues from Lima, he fends a
perfon of great diftinction, generally fome officer of
his retinue, to Lima, with the character of an am-
baffador; and, by a memoir, informs his predeceffor
of his arrival, in conformity to his majefty's orders,
who had been pleaſed to confer on him the govern-
ment of that kingdom. On this Ambaffador's arri-
val at Lima, the late vice-roy fends a meffenger
to compliment him on his fafe arrival; and on dif-
miffing the ambaffador, prefents him with fome
jewel of great value, and a jurifdiction or two which
happen at that time to be vacant, together with an
indulgence of officiating by deputy, if moft agreeable
to him. The corregidor of Piura receives the new
vice-roy at Paita, and provides litters, mules, and
every other neceffary for the vice roy and his retinue,
as far as the next jurifdiction. He alfo orders booths
to be built at the halting places in the defarts; at-
tends him in perfon, and defrays all the expences,
till relieved by the next corregidor. Being at length
arrived at Lima, he proceeds, as it were incognito
through
CH. IV.
SOUTH AMERICA.
through the city to Callao, about two leagues and a
half diftant. In this place he is received and ac-
knowledged by one of the ordinary alcaldes of Lima,
appointed for that purpoſe, and alfo by the military
officers. He is lodged in the vice-roy's palace, which,
on this occafion, is adorned with aftonishing magnifi-
cence. The next day, all the courts, fecular and
ecclefiaftical, wait on him from Lima, and he receives
them under a canopy in the following order. The
audiencia, the chamber of accounts, the cathedral
chapter, the magiftracy, the confulado, the inquifi-
tion, the tribunal de Cruzada, the fuperiors of the reli-
gious orders, the colleges, and other perfons of emi-
nence. On this day the judges attend the vice-roy to
an entertainment given by the Alcalde; and all per-
fons of note take a pride in doing the like to his
attendants. At night there is a play, to which the
ladies are admitted veiled, and in their uſual drefs, to
fee the new vice-roy.
THE ſecond day after his arrival at Callao, he
goes in a coach provided for him by the city, to the
chapel de la Legua, fo called from its being about
half-way between Callao and Lima, where he is met
by the late vice-roy, and both alighting from their
coaches, the latter delivers to him a truncheon as the
enfign of the government of the kingdom. After this,
and the ufual compliments, they feparate.
If the new vice-roy intends to make his public
entry into Lima, in a few days he returns to Callao,
where he ſtays till the day appointed; but as a longer
fpace is generally allowed for the many preparatives
neceffary to fuch a ceremony, he continues his journey
to Lima, and takes up his refidence in his palace,
the fitting up of which on this occafion, is committed
to the junior auditor, and the ordinary alcalde.
On the day of public entry, the streets are cleaned,
and hung with tapeftry, and magnificent triumphal
arches erected at proper diſtances. At two in the
afternoon
2
48
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
1
afternoon the vice-roy goes privately to the church
belonging to the monaftery of Monferrat, which is
ſeparated by an arch and a gate from the ſtreet, where
the cavalcade is to begin. As foon as all who are
to affift in the proceffion are affembled, the vice-roy
and his retinue mount on horſes, provided by the city
for this ceremony, and the gates being thrown. open,
the proceffion begins in the following order.
THE militia; the colleges; the univerſity with the
profeffors in their proper habits; the chamber of ac-
compts; the audience on horfes with trappings; the
magiftracy, in crimfon velvet robes, lined with bro-
cade of the fame colour, and a particular kind of
caps on their heads, a drefs only uſed on this occa-
fion. Some members of the corporation who walk
on foot, fupport the canopy over the vice-roy, and
the two ordinary alcaldes, which are in the fame
drefs, and walk in the proceffion, act as equerries,
holding the bridle of his horfe. This part of the
ceremony, tho' prohibited by the laws of the Indians,
is ftill performed in the manner I have defcribed; for
the cuftom being of great antiquity, the magiftrates
have not thought proper to alter it, that the refpect
to the vice-roy might not fuffer any diminution, and
no perfon has yet ventured to be the firft in refufing
to comply with it.
THIS proceffion is of confiderable length, the vice-
roy paffing through feveral ſtreets till he comes to the
great fquare, in which the whole company draw up
facing the cathedral, where he alights, and is re-
ceived by the archbiſhop and chapter. Te Deum is
then fung before the vice-roy, and the officers placed
in their refpective feats; after which he again mounts
his horſe and proceeds to the palace-gate, where he is
received by the Audiencia, and conducted to an a-
partment in which a fplendid collation is provided, as
are alſo others for the nobility in the anti-chambers.
L.
On the morning of the following day, he returns
TO
CH. IV.
49
SOUTH AMERICA.
to the cathedral in his coach, with the retinue and
pomp ufual on folemn feftivals, and public ceremo-
nies. He is preceded by the whole troop of horse-
guards, the members of the feveral tribunals in their
coaches, and after them the vice-roy himſelf with
his family, the company of halbadiers bringing up the
rear. On this occafion all the riches and ornaments
of the church are diſplayed, the archbishop celebrates
in his pontifical robes, the mafs of thankſgiving; and
the fermon is preached by one of the beft orators
of the chapter. From hence the vice-roy returns
to the palace attended by all the nobility, who omit
nothing to make a fplendid figure on thefe occafions.
In the evening of this, and the two following days,
the collations are repeated, with all the plenty and
delicacy imaginable. To increafe the feftivity, all
women of credit have free acceſs to the halls, galle-
ries, and gardens of the palace, when they are fond of
fhewing the difpofitions of their genius, either by the
vivacity of repartees, or fpirited converſations, in which
they often filence ftrangers of a very ready wit.
THIS fhew and ceremony is fucceeded by bull feaſts
at the city's expence, which continue five days. The
three firſt for the vice-roy, and the two latter in com-
pliment to the ambaffador who brought advice of his
arrival, and the great honour conferred on him by the
fovereign in the government of this kingdom.
THIS ambaffador, who, as I before obſerved, is al-
ways a perſon of eminent quality, makes alſo a pub-
lic entrance into Lima on horſeback on the day of
his arrival, and the nobility being informed of his
approach, go out to receive and conduct him to the
palace, from whence they carry him to the lodgings
prepared for him. This ceremony ufed to be im-
mediately followed by feafts and public diverfions;
but in order to avoid that inconvenience, juft when
the city is every where bufied in preparing for the re-
ception of the vice-roy, they are deferred, and given
VOL. II.
E
at
50
Book IV.
A VOYAGE TO
1
at one and the fame time as above recited.
THE bull-feafts are fucceeded by that ceremony,
in which the univerfity, the colleges, the convents
and nunneries acknowledge him as their vice-royal
protector. This is alfo accompanied with great
fplendor; and valuable prizes are beft wed on thofe
who make the moſt ingenious compofitions in his praiſe.
Theſe ceremonies, which greatly heighten the magnifi-
cence of this city, are fo little known in Europe, that
I ſhall be excuſed for enlarging on them.
THEY are begun by the univerfity, and the rector
prepares a poetical conteft, adapted to display either
the wit or learning of the competitors. After pub-
liſhing the themes, and the prizes to be given to
thoſe who beft handle the ſubject they have choſen,
he waits on the vice-roy to know when he will be
pleaſed to honour the univerſity with his prefence;
and, the time being fixed, every part of the prin-
cipal court is adorned with the utmoft magnificence.
The prizes which are placed in order diftinguiſh them-
felves by their richneſs, while the pillars and columns
are hung with emblematical devices, or pertinent
apothegms on polifhed fhields, furrounded by the
moſt beautiful mouldings.
THE reception is in the following order. On the
vice-roy's entering the court he is conducted to the
rectoral chair, which, on this occafion, glitters with
the magnificence of an eaſtern throne. Oppofite to
it fits the rector, or, in his abfence, one of the moft
eminent members of that learned body, who makes
a fpeech, in which he expreffes the fatisfaction the
whole univerſity feels in fuch a patron. After this
the vice-roy returns to his palace, where, the day
following, the rector prefents him with a book, con-
taining the poetical conteft, bound in velvet, and
plated at the corners with gold, accompanied with
fome elegant piece of furniture, whofe value is never
less than eight hundred or a thoufand crowns.
THE
CH. IV.
gi
SOUTH
SOUTH AMERICA.
THE principal end of the univerſity in this ceremony
being to ingratiate itſelf with the vice-roy and his
family, the rector contrives that the poetical pieces
which gain the prizes, be made in the name of the
principal perfons of his family, and accordingly the
moſt diſtinguiſhed prizes are prefented to them; and
there being 12 fubjects in the conteft, there are three
prizes for each, of which the two inferior fall to thoſe
members, whoſe compofitions are moſt approved of.
Theſe prizes are pieces of plate, valuable both for
their weight and workmanship.
THE univerfity is followed by the colleges of St.
Philip and St. Martin, with the fame ceremonies,
except the poetical conteſt.
NEXT follow the religious orders, according to
the antiquity of their foundation in the Indies. Thefe
prefent to the vice-roy the beſt theſes maintained by
ftudents at the public acts.
THE Vice-roy is preſent at them all, and each dif-
putant pays him fome elegant compliment, before
he enters on his fubject.
THE fuperiors of the nunneries fend him their con-
gratulatory compliments, and when he is pleafed in
return to vifit them, they entertain him with a very
fine concert of mufick, of which the vocal parts are
truly charming; and at his retiring they prefent him
with fome of the chief curiofities which their reſpective
inſtitutes allow to be made by them.
BESIDES theſe feſtivities and ceremonies, which are
indeed the moſt remarkable; there are alfo others;
fome of which are annual, in which the riches and
liberality of the inhabitants are no lefs confpicuous..
Particularly on New Year's Day, at the election of
Alcaldes, who being afterwards confirmed by the
vice-roy, appear publickly on horfe-back the fame
evening, and ride on each fide of him, in very mag-
nificent habits ornamented with jewels, and the fur-
niture of their horfes perfectly anfwerable. This
E 2
cavalcade
52
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
cavalcade is very pompous, being preceded by the two
companies of horfe-guards, the halbadiers, followed
by the members of the tribunals in their coaches,
the vice-roy's retinue, and the nobility of both fexes.
ON twelfth day in the morning, and the preced-
ing evening, the vice-roy rides on horfeback thro'
the town, with the royal ftandard carried in great
pomp before him. This is performed in commemo-
ration of the building of the city, which, as we
have already obferved, was begun on this day; fo-
lemn vefpers are fung in the cathedral, and a maſs
celebrated; and the ceremony is concluded with a
cavalcade, like that on new year's day.
THE Alcaldes chofen for the current year, give
public entertainments in their houfes, each three
nights fucceffively; but that the feafts of one might
not interfere with thofe of another, and occafion re-
fentments, they agree for one to hold his feafts the
three days immediately fucceeding the election, and
the other on twelfth day and the two following.
Thus each has a greater number of guefts, and the
entertainments are more fplendid and fumptuous. The
other feafts in the courfe of the year, are not inferior
to theſe either with regard to numbers or expence ;
at leaſt the number of them muſt excite a high idea
of the wealth and magnificence of Lima.
CHAP. V.
Of the Inhabitants of LIMA.
S
AVING, in our accounts of feveral towns thro
which we paffed to Lima, included alſo the
inhabitants, we fhall obferve the fame rule with re-
gard to Lima; for though amidſt fuch an infinite
variety of cuſtoms, there is always fome refemblance
between
CH. V.
53
SOUTH AMERICA.
between thoſe of neighbouring people, yet the diffe-
rence is alſo confiderable, and no where more ſo than
on this continent, where it doubtlefs arifes from the
great diſtance between the ſeveral towns; and, con-
fequently, I may fay, from the different genius's and
difpofitions of the people. And though Lima is the
capital of the country, it will appear that it is
not a model to other places, with regard to dreſs,
cuſtoms, and manner of living.
THE inhabitants of Lima are compofed of whites,
or Spaniards, Negroes, Indians, Meftizos, and o-
ther cafts, proceeding from the mixture of all
three.
THE Spaniſh families are very numerous; Lima
according to the lowest computation, containing
fixteen or eighteen thousand whites. Among theſe
are reckoned a third or fourth part of the moſt diſtin-
guiſhed nobility of Peru; and many of theſe digni-
fied with the ftile of ancient or modern Caftilians,
among which are no leſs than 45 counts and marquifes.
The number of knights belonging to the feveral mi-
litary orders is alfo very confiderable. Befides theſe
are many families no lefs refpectable and living in
equal fplendor; particularly 24 gentlemen of large
eftates, but without titles, tho' most of them have
ancient feats, a proof of the antiquity of their fa-
milies. One of theſe traces, with undeniable certainty,
his deſcent from the Yncas. The name of this fa-
mily is Ampuero, fo called from one of the Spaniſh
commanders at the conqueft of this country, who
married a Coya, or daughter of the Ynca. To this fa-
mily the kings of Spain have been pleafed to grant
feveral diftinguifhing honours and privileges, as
marks of its great quality: and many of the moſt emi-
nent families in the city have defired intermarriages
with it. All thofe families live in a manner becom-
ing their rank, having eftates equal to their gene-
rous difpofitions, keeping a great number of flaves
E 3
and
54
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
and other domeftics, and thoſe who affect making
the greateſt figure, have coaches, while others content
themſelves with calafhes or chaifes, which are here
fo common, that no family of any fubftance is without
one. It must be owned that thefe carriages are more
neceffary here than in other cities, on account of the
numberless droves of mules which continually pafs
thro' Lima, and cover the ſtreets with their dung,
which being foon dried by the fun and the wind, turns
to a naufeous duft, fcarce fupportable to thoſe who
walk on foot. Thefe chaifes, which are drawn by
a mule, and guided by a driver, have only two
wheels, with two feats oppofite to each other, fo
that on occafion they will hold four- perfons. They
are very flight and airy; but on account of the
gildings and other decorations, fometimes coft eight
hundred or a thouſand crowns, The number of
them is faid to amount to 5 or 6000; and that of
coaches is alfo very confiderable, tho' not equal to
the former. The funds to fupport theſe expences,
which in other parts would ruin families, are their
large eftates and plantations, civil and military em-
ployments or commerce, which is here accounted no
derogation to families of the greateft diftinction; but
by this commerce is not to be underſtood the buying
and felling by retail, or in fhops, every one trading
proportional to his character and fubftançe. Hence
families are preſerved from thofe difafters too com-
mon in Spain, where titles are frequently found with-
out a fortune capable of fupporting their dignity.
Commerce is fo far from being confidered as a dif-
grace at Lima, that the greateſt fortunes have been
raiſed by it; thofe, on the contrary, being rather de-
fpifed, who not being bleffed with a fufficient eftate,
through indolence, neglect to have recourſe to it for
improving their fortunes. This cuftom, or reſource,
which was eſtabliſhed there without any determinate
end, being introduced by a vain defire of the firſt
Spaniards
>
CH. V.
55
SOUTH AMERICA.
Spaniards to acquire wealth, is now the real fupport
of that fplendor in which thofe families live; and
whatever repugnance thefe military gentlemen might
originally have to commerce, it was immediately re-
moved by a royal proclamation, by which it was de-
clared that commerce in the Indies fhould not ex-
clude from nobility or the military orders; a very
wife meaſure, and of which Spain would be ſtill more
fenfible, were it extended to all its dependencies.
Ar Lima, as at Quito, and all Spaniſh America,
ſome of the eminent families have been long fince
fettled there, whilft the profperity of others is of a
later date; for being the center of the whole com-
merce of Peru, a greater number of Europeans re-
fort to it, than to any other city; fome for trade,
and others, from being invefted in Spain with con-
fidérable employments: among both are perfons of
the greateſt merit; and tho' many after they have
finiſhed their refpective affairs, return home, yet
the major part, induced by the fertility of the foil,
and goodness of the climate, remain at Lima, and
marry young ladies remarkable equally for the gifts
of fortune as thofe of nature; and thus new families
are continually fettled.
THE Negroes, Mulattoes, and their defcendants,
form the greater number of the inhabitants; and of
thefe are the greateft part of the mechanics; tho'
here the Europeans alfo follow the fame occupations,
which are not at Lima reckoned difgraceful to them,
as they are at Quito; for gain being here the uni-
verfal paffion, the inhabitants purſue it by means of
any trade, without regard to its being followed by
Mulattoes, intereft here preponderating againſt any
other confideration.
THE third, and laft clafs of inhabitants are the
Indians and Meftizos, but thefe are very fmall in
proportion to the largeneſs of the city, and the mul-
titudes of the fecond clafs. They are employed in
E 4
agri-
56
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
0
agriculture, in making earthen ware, and bringing all
kinds of provifions to market, domeftick fervices being
performed by Negroes and Mulattoes, either flaves or
free, though generally by the former.
THE ufual drefs of the men differs very little from
that worn in Spain, nor is the diftinction between
the feveral claffes very great; for the uſe of all forts
of cloth being allowed, every one wears what he can
purchaſe. So that it is not uncommon to fee a Mu-
latto, or any other mechanic dreffed in a tiffue, equal
to any thing that can be worn by a more opulent
perfon. They all greatly affect fine cloaths, and it
may be faid without exaggeration, that the fineft ftuffs
made in countries, where induftry is always inventing
fomething new, are more generally feen at Lima
than in any other place; vanity and oftentation not
being reftrained by cuftom or law. Thus the great
quantities brought in the galleons and regifter fhips,
notwithſtanding they fell here prodigioufly above
their prime coſt in Europe, the richeft of them are
uſed as cloaths, and worn with a carelefneſs little
fuitable to their extravagant price; but in this arti-
cle the men are greatly exceeded by the women,
whofe paffion for dreſs is ſuch as to deferve a more
particular account.
IN the choice of laces, the women carry their taſte
to a prodigious excefs; nor is this an emulation con-
fin'd to perfons of quality, but has ſpread thro' all
ranks, except the loweft clafs of negroes. The laces
are fewed to their linen, which is of the fineſt ſort,
though very little of it is feen, the greateft part of it,
eſpecially in fome dreffes, being always covered with
lace; fo that the little which appears feems rather for
ornament than ufe. Thefe laces too muft be all of
Flanders manufacture, no woman of rank conde-
ſcending to look on any other.
THEIR drefs is very different from the European,
which the cuſtom of the country alone can render
excufable;
CH. V.
57
SOUTH AMERICA.
1
A
excufable; indeed to Spaniards at their first coming
over it appears extreamly indecent. Their drefs con-
fifts of a pair of fhoes, a fhift, a petticoat of dimity,
an open petticoat, and a jacket, which in fummer,
is of linen, in winter of ftuff. To this fome add a
mantelette, that the former may hang loofe. The
difference between this drefs and that worn at Quito,
though confifting of the fame pieces is, that at Li-
ma it is much fhorter, the petticoat which is uſually
tied below the waift, not reaching lower than the
calf of the leg, from whence, nearly to the ancle,
hangs a border of very fine lace, fewed to the bot-
tom of the under petticoat; through which the ends
of their garters are difcovered, embroidered with
gold or filver, and ſometimes fet with pearls; but
the latter is not common. The upper petticoat,
which is of velvet, or ſome rich ſtuff, is fringed all
round, and not lefs crowded with ornaments, than
thoſe deſcribed in the firſt volume of this work.
But be the ornaments what they will, whether of
fringe, lace, or ribbands, they are always exquifite-
ly fine. The ſhift ſleeves, which are a yard and a
half in length, and two yards in width, when worn
for ornament, are covered with rolls of laces, varie-
gated in fuch a manner as to render the whole truly
elegant. Over the ſhift is worn the jacket, the
fleeves of which are exceffively large, of a circular
figure, and confift of rows of lace, or flips of cam-
brick or lawn, with lace difpofed betwixt each, as
are alſo the ſhift fleeves, even of thoſe who do not
affect extraordinary ornament. The body of the
jacket is tied on the fhoulders with ribbands faftened
to the back of their ſtays; and the round fleeves of
it being tucked up to the fhoulders, are fo diſpoſed
together with thofe of the fhift, as to form what'
may be term'd four wings. If the jacket be not
buttoned or clafped before; it is agreeably faſtened
on the ſhoulders; and indeed the whole dreſs makes
a moſt
**
2
#
BOOK I.
58
A VOYAGE TO
a moſt elegant figure. They who ufe a clofe veſt,
Faſten it with clafps, but wear over it the loofe jacket,
already deſcribed. In the fummer they have a kind of
veil, the ftuff and faſhion of which is like that of the
ſhift and body of the veft, of the fineſt cambrick or
lawn, richly laced: But in winter the veil worn
in their houſes is of bays; when they go abroad full
dreffed, it is adorned like the fleeves. They alſo uſe
brown bays, finely laced and fringed, and bordered
with flips of black velvet. Over the petticoat is an
apron of the fame ftuff as the fleeves of the jacket,
hanging down to the bottom of it. From hence fome
idea may be formed of the expence of a drefs, where
the much greater part of the ftuff is merely for orna-
ment; nor will it appear ftrange, that the marriage
fhift ſhould coft a thouſand crowns, and fometimes
more.
ONE particular on which the women here ex-
treamly value themſelves, is the fize of their feet,
a fmall foot being efteemed one of the chief
beauties; and this is the principal fault they find
with the Spaniſh ladies, who have much larger feet
than thofe of Lima. From their infancy they are
accuſtomed to wear ftreight fhoes, that their feet may
not grow beyond the fize, of which they efteem beau-
tiful; fome of them do not exceed five inches and a
half, or fix inches in length, and in women of a ſmall
ftature they are ftill lefs. Their fhoes have little or
no fole, one piece of Cordovan ferving both for that
and the upper leather, and of an equal breadth and
roundneſs at the toe and heel, fo as to form a fort of
long figure of eight; but the foot not complying
with this figure, brings it to a greater regularity.
Theſe fhoes are always faftened with diamond buckles,
or fomething very brilliant in proportion to the abi-
lity of the wearer, being worn lefs for ufe than orna-
ment; for the fhoes, are made in fuch a manner,
that they never loofen of themfelves, nor do the
buckles
2
CH. V.
59
SOUTH AMERICA.
buckles hinder their being taking off. It is unuſual
to ſet theſe buckles with pearls, a particular to be
accounted for, only from their being fo laviſh of
them in the other ornaments of drefs, as to confider
them as of too little value. The fhoemakers, who are
no ftrangers to the foible of the fex, take great care
to make them in a manner very little calculated for
fervice The ufual price is three half crowns a
pair; thoſe embroidered with gold or filver coft
from eight to ten crowns. The latter however, are
but little worn, the encumbrance of embroidery be-
ing fuited rather to enlarge than diminish the ap-
pearance of a ſmall foot.
THEY are fond of white filk ftockings, made
extreamly thin, that the leg may appear the more
fhapely; the greateſt part of which is expofed to
view. Theſe trifles often afford very ſprightly
fallies of wit in their animadverfions on the dreſs of
others.
HITHERTO We have confidered only the more
common dreſs of theſe ladies; the reader will con-
ceive a ftill higher idea of their magnificence, when
he is informed of the ornaments with which they are
decorated in their vifits, and upon public occafions.
We ſhall begin with their manner of dreffing the
hair, which being naturally black, and capable of
reaching below their waifts, they difpofe in ſuch a
manner as to appear perfectly graceful. They tie it up
behind in fix braided locks, through which a golden
bodkin a little bent is inferted, and having a clufter
of diamonds at each end. On this the locks are fu-
fpended fo as to touch the fhoulder. On the front
and upper part of the head they wear diamond egrets,
and the hair is formed into little curls, hanging
from the forehead to the middle of the ear, with a
large black patch of velvet on each temple. Their
ear-rings are of brilliants, intermixed with tuffs of
black filk, covered with pearls, refembling thofe al-
ready
*
60
BOOK I
A VOYAGE TO
}
2
1
ready deſcribed in the first volume. Theſe are fo
common an ornament, that befides their necklaces,
they alſo wear about their neck rofaries, the beads
of which are of pearls, either feparate or fet in cluf-
ters to the fize of a large filbert; and thoſe which
form the croſs are ftill larger.
BESIDES diamond rings, necklaces, girdles, and
bracelets, all very curious both with regard to
water and fize, many ladies wear other jewels fet in
gold, or for fingularity fake, in tombago. Laftly,
from their girdle before is fufpended a large round
jewel enriched with diamonds; much more fuperb
than their bracelets, or other ornaments. A lady
covered with the moſt expenſive lace inſtead of linen,
and glittering from head to foot with jewels, is fup-
poſed to be drefs'd at the expence of not less than
thirty or forty thouſand crowns. A ſplendor ftill the
more aſtoniſhing, as it is fo very common.
A fondnefs for expence in theſe people, does
not confine itſelf to rich apparel; it appears no lefs
in the ftrange neglect, and the ſmall value they ſeem
to fet upon them, by wearing them in a manner the
moſt careleſs, and by that means bringing upon
themſelves freſh expences in repairing the old or
purchaſing new jewels; efpecially pearls on account
of their fragility.
THE moft Common of the two kinds of dreffes
worn when they go abroad, is the veil and long pet-
ticoat; the other is a round petticoat and mantelet.
The former for church, the latter for taking the air,
and diverfions; but both in the prevailing tafte for
expence, being richly embroidered with filver or gold.
THE long petticoat is particularly worn on holy
Thurſday; as on that day they vifit the churches,
attended by two or three female negro or mulatto
flaves, dreffed in an uniform like pages.
WITH regard to the perfons of the women of Li-
ma, they are, in general, of a middling ftature,
་་
handſome,
CH. V.
6x
SOUTH AMERICA.
handfome, genteel, and of very fair complexions
without the help of art; the beauty of their hair,
has been already mentioned, but they have ufually an
enchanting luftre and dignity in their eyes.
THESE perfonal charms are heightened by thofe of
the mind, clear and comprehenſive intellects, an ea-
finefs of behaviour, fo well tempered, that whilft it
invites love, it commands refpect; the charms of
their converſation are beyond expreffion; their ideas
juft, their expreffions pure, their manner inimitably
graceful. Theſe are the allurements by which great
numbers of Europeans, forgetting the fair profpects
they have at home, are induced to marry and fettle
here.
ONE material objection against them is, that being
too well acquainted with their own excellencies, they
are tainted with a haughtiness, which will ſcarce ftoop
to the will of their huſbands. Yet by their addreſs
and infinuating compliance, they fo far gain the
afcendency over them, as to be left to their own
difcretion. There may indeed, a few exceptions be
found; but thefe poffibly are rather owing to a want
of capacity. Another objection may be made to
their being more expenfive than other ladies: but
this ariſes from the exorbitant price of ftuffs, laces,
and other commodities, in this country. And with
regard to the independence they affect, it is no
more than a cuftom long eſtabliſhed in the country.
To which may be added, that being natives, and
their husbands generally foreigners, it is very natu-
ral, that the latter fhould not enjoy all that autho-
rity, founded on laws fuperior to cuftom; and hence
this error remains uncorrected. The hufbands con-
form to the manners of the country, as their cha-
racter is not in the leaſt affected thereby; and this
complaifance is rewarded by the diſcretion and affec-
tion of their ladies, which are not to be paralleled in
any other part of the world.
THEY
X
62.
A VOYAGE TO
X
Book I
THEY are fo exceffively fond of perfumes, that
they always carry ambergriſe about them; putting
it behind their ears, and other parts of the body;
and alfo in feveral parts of their cloaths. Not con-
tent with the natural fragrancy of flowers, which
are alfo a favourite ornament, they fcatter perfumes
even on their nofegays. The moſt beautiful flowers
they place in their hair, and others, which are moſt
valuable for their odour they ftick in their fleeves;
the effluvia therefore iffuing from thefe ladies, the
reader will conceive to reach to no inconfiderable dif-
tance. The flower moft in ufe is the Chirimoya,
of mean appearance, but of exquiſite ſcent.
To this paffion for flowers it is owing, that the
grand fquare, every morning, on account of the
vaft quantity of beautiful vegetables brought thither,
has the appearance of a ſpacious garden. The ſmell
and the fight are there fufficiently gratified. The
ladies refort thither in their calafhes, and if their fan-
cy happens to be pleaſed, they make but little diffi-
culty with regard to the price. A ftranger has the
pleaſure of feeing affembled here not only the ladies,
but every body of rank whofe health and avocations
will admit of it.
THE lower claffes of women even to the very
negroes, affect, according to their abilities, to imi-
tate their betters, not only in the fafhion of their
drefs, but alſo in the richneſs of it. None here are
feen without ſhoes as at Quito, but they are made of
fo ſmall a fize, in order to diminish the natural bignefs
of the feet, that they muſt give infinite uneafinefs in
the wearing. A defire of being diftinguiſhed by añ
elegant drefs is univerfal. Their linen is always
ftarch'd to a great degree, in order to difplay the
coftly patterns of their laces. After this univerſal
paffion, their next care, and indeed a much more
commendable one, is cleanlinefs; of which the un-
common
CH.V.
63
SOUTH AMERICA:
common neatnefs of their houſes are fufficient in-
ſtances.
THEY are naturally gay, fprightly, and jocofe,
without levity; remarkably fond of mufick; fo that
even among the loweſt you are entertained with pleaf-
ing and agreeable fongs; for the gratification of this
paffion, they have in general good voices, and fome
of them are heard with admiration. They are very
fond of balls, where they diftinguish themſelves e-
qually by the gracefulneſs and agility of their mo-
tions. In fine, the reigning paffions of the fair at
Lima, are fhew, mirth, and feſtivity.
are
THE natural vivacity and penetration of the in-
habitants of Lima, both men and women,
greatly improved by converfing with perfons of
iearning reforting thither from Spain. The cuſtom
of forming ſmall affemblies, has alſo a great ten-
dency to improve their minds, and give them a rea-
dy and happy manner of expreffion, from an emu-
lation to diftinguish themſelves in thefe engaging
accompliſhments.
THO' the natives have too great a fhare of pride,
they are not wanting in docility when proper me-
thods are taken. They inftantly fhew their reluct-
ance to obey a command given with haughtineſs;
but, when delivered with mildneſs and affability,
equally obfequious and fubmiffive. They are charmed
with gentleness of manners; aad a few inftances of
kindneſs make a laſting impreffion on their minds.
They are remarkably brave, and of fuch unble-
miſhed honour, as never to diffemble an affront re-
ceived, or give one to others; fo that they live to-
gether in a chearful and focial manner. The Mu-
lattoes being lefs civilized, and having but flender
notions of the turpitude of vice, and the importance
of virtue, are haughty, turbulent and quarrelfome.
Yet the mischievous confequences of thefe vices are
lefs
64
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
3
1
lefs common, than might naturally be expected in
fuch a populous city.
THE manners and difpofitions of the nobility,
correſpond with their rank and fortune. Courtely
fhines in all their actions, and their complaifance to
ftrangers is without limits. The reception they give
them, is equally free from flattery and a haughty re-
ferve; fo that all the Europeans, whether they vifit
them out of curiofity or from commercial motives,
are charmed with their probity, politenefs, candour,
and magnificence.
CHAP. VI.
Of the Climate of the City of LIMA and the
whole Country of VALLES: And the divifions
of the feafons.
TH
1
HE temperature of the air of Lima, and its
alterations, would be greatly injured, by an
inference drawn from what is felt in the fame degree
of north latitude; as Lima would from thence be con-
cluded another Carthagena; the latitude of both cities,
one in the northern and the other in the fouthern he-
miſphere, differing but very little; whereas in fact it
is quite the reverfe. For as that of Carthagena is hot.
to a degree of inconvenience, this of Lima is perfectly
agreeable. And tho' the difference of the four feaſons
are fenfible, all of them are moderate, and none of
them troubleſome.
SPRING begins towards the clofe of the year, that
is, towards the end of November, or beginning of
December, But is to be underſtood only of the
heavens, as then the vapours which filled the at-
moſphere during the winter fubfide, the fun to the
great
1
CH. VI.
65
SOUTH AMERICA.
L
great joy of the inhabitants again appears, and the
country now begins to revive, which during the ab-
fence of his rays had continued in a ſtate of languor.
This is fucceeded by fummer, which, tho' hot from
the perpendicular direction of the fun's rays, is far
from being infupportable; the heat, which would in-
deed otherwiſe be exceffive, being moderated by the
fouth-winds, which at this feafon always blow, tho'
with no great force. At the latter end of June, or
the beginning of July, the winter begins, and con-
tinues till November or December, the autumn in-
tervening between both. About this time the fouth
winds begin to blow ftronger, and bring the cold
with them; not indeed equal to that in countries
where fnow and ice are known, but fo keen that
the light dreffes are lain by, and cloth or other warm
ftuffs worn.
A
+
THERE are two caufes of the cold felt in this
country, and nature, wife in all her ways, provides
others which produce the fame effect at Quito. The
firft caufe of cold at Lima is the winds, which paffing
over the frozen climes of the fouth pole, bring hither
part of the frigorific particles from thofe gelid
regions; but as a fufficient quantity of thefe could
not be brought over fuch an immenfe fpace as liés
between the frozen and torrid zones of its hemi-
ſphere, nature has provided another expedient:
during the winter, the earth is covered with ſo thick
a fog, as totally to intercept the rays of the fun;
and the winds, by being propagated under the ſhelter
of this fog, retain the particles they contracted in
the frozen zone. Nor is this fog confined to the
country of Lima, it extends, with the fame denſity,
northward thro' all the country of Valles, at the
fame time filling the atmoſphere of the fea; as will
be fhewn hereafter.
*
.
THIS fog feldom fails daily to cover the earth,
with a density that obfcures objects at any diſtance:
VOL. II.
F
About
66
BOOK Ii
A VOYAGE TO
}
About 10 or 11 it begins to rife, but without being
totally difperfed, tho' it is then no impediment to the
fight, intercepting only the rays of the fun by day,
and by night thoſe of the ſtars; the ſky being contiņu-
ally covered whatever height the vapours float at in
the atmoſphere. Sometimes, indeed, they are fo far
diſperſed as to admit of feeing the diſk of the fun, but
ftill precluding the heat of his rays.
It is not unworthy obſervation on this head, that
at the diſtance only of two or three leagues, the
vapours are much more diffipated from noon to
evening than in the city, the fun fully appearing fo
as to moderate the coldneſs of the air.
Alfo at
Callao, which is only two leagues and a half from
Lima, the winter is much more mild, and the air
clearer, during that feafon, for the days at Lima,
are very melancholy and difagreeable, not only on
account of the darkneſs, but frequently during the
whole day the vapours continue in the fame degree
of denfity and pofition, without breaking, or being
elevated above the earth.
IT is in this feaſon only that the vapours diffolve
into a very ſmall mift or dew, which they call garua,
and thus every where equally moiftens the earth;
by which means all thofe hills, which during the
other part of the year offer nothing to the fight but
rocks and waftes, are cloathed with verdure, and
enamelled with flowers of the moſt beautiful colours,
to the great joy of the inhabitants, who, as foon as
the feverity of winter is abated, refort into the coun-
try, which exhibits fo elegant an appearance. Theſe
garuas or dews never fall in quantities fufficient to
damage the roads, or incommode the traveller; a
very thin ftuff will not foon be wet thro'; but the con-
tinuance of the mifts during the whole winter without
being exhaled by the fun, renders the moft arid and
barren parts fertile. For the fame reaſon they turn
the
}
CH. VI.
67
SOUTH AMERICA.
the diſagreeable duft in the streets of Lima into a
mud, which is rather more offenſive.
THE winds which prevail during the winter, are
nearly, though not exactly fouth; fometimes fhifting
a little to the S. E. between which and the fouth
they always blow. This we obſerved to have con-
ftantly happened during the two winters we fpent
in this country, one at Lima, and the other at Cal-
lao; The former in the year 1742, and the latter
in 1743. The firft was one of the moſt fevere that
had been felt, and the cold general in all that part
of America to Cape Horn. In Chili, Baldivia, and
Chiloe, the cold was proportionable to the latitudes;
and at Lima it occafioned conftipations and fluxions,
which ſwept away fuch numbers, that it ſeemed to
reſemble a peftilence. And tho' diforders of this
kind are very common in the winter feaſon, they are
rarely attended with the danger which then accom-
panied them.
THE extraordinary fingularity obſerved in the king-
dom of Peru, namely, that it never rains; or to
ſpeak more properly, that the clouds do not convert
themſelves into formal fhowers, has induced many
naturalifts to enquire into the caufe; but in their
folutions of this difficulty they have varied, and in-
vented ſeveral hypothefes to account for fo ftrange
an effect. Some attribute it to the conftancy of the
fouth winds, concluding, that as they are inceffant,
they propel the vapours rifing from the fea, to the
fame point; and thus by never refting in any part,
as no oppofite winds blow during the whole year
to check their courſe, there is not time fufficient for
the miſts to collect themſelves, and, by an increaſe
of gravity to defcend in the manner of rain. Others
have attributed it to the natural cold brought by
the fouth wind, which continue the atmoſphere in a
certain degree of heat during the whole year, and thus
increafe the magnitude of the particles of the air,
F 2
which
68
A VOYAGE TO BOOK I.
>
which with the nitrous effluvia acquired in its paf-
fage over the furface of the fea, together with
thoſe of the feveral minerals with which this coun-
try abounds, leffen its velocity, and confequently its
power of uniting the vapours fo as to form drops,
whofe gravity is greater than that of the air. To
this we may add, that the rays of the fun not exert-
ing a force fufficient for uniting and putting them
in motion, the heat being greatly leffened by the
coldneſs of the wind, the fog cannot be converted
into drops of rain. For while the weight of the
cloud does not exceed that of the air, by which it
is fupported, it cannot precipitate.
I SHALL not cenfure this, or any other hypothefis,
formed for explaining the above phænomenon, not
being certain that I have myfelf difcovered the true
caufe; I fhall however give the reader my thoughts,
and leave them to the difcuffion of philofophers. In
order to this I fhall lay down fome preliminary prin-
ciples, which may ferve as a foundation to thoſe who
fhall apply themſelves to diſcover the true cauſe of
this phænomenon, with fome inftructions for judg-
ing of the feveral hypothefes that have been formed
on this extraordinary fubject.
1
1. Ir is to be fuppofed, that throughout the whole
country of Valles, no other winds are known
during the whole year, than the foutherly, that is
between the S. and S. E. and this not only on the land,
but alfo to a certain diſtance at fea; it evidently ap-
pearing that the winds are limited between the S.
and S. E. It is therefore very ftrange that fome
writers fhould affert that they are confined between
the S. and S. W. as this is abfolutely falfe. There
are indeed intervals when theſe winds are fcarce felt,
and an air, tho' extreamly fmall, feems to come from
the north, and which forms the fog. 2. In winter
the S. wind blows harder than in fummer, eſpecially
near the furface of the earth. 3. Tho' no formal rain
is
CH. VI. SOUTH AMERICA.
69
i
is ever known in the country of Valles, there are
wetting fogs called Garuas, which continue the
greateſt part of the winter; but are never feen in
fummer. 4. When the Garuas fall, it is obferved
that the clouds, mift, or vapours, which rife from
the earth, remain almoſt contiguous to its furface;
and the fame fog which is converted into a Garua,
begins by a moift air, till the humidity gradually
increafing to its greatest condenfation, the fmail
drops which fall, are eaſily diſtinguiſhable. This is
fo natural, that it is known in all other countries fub-
ject to any degree of cold, and, confequently, not
to be wondered at in this.
I GIVE the name of cloud, mift, or vapours, to
that which produces the Garua or fmall rain; for
tho' there may be fome accidental diftinctions be-
tween theſe three kinds, they are not fuch as cauſe
any material difference: The fog being only the va-
pour condenſed more than when it firft rofe; and the
cloud only a fog elevated to a greater height, and
ftill more condenſed than the former; fo that in re-
ality they may all be confidered as one and the fame
thing, differing only in degrees of denfity, and
therefore it is of little importance whatever name it
is called by.
5. The rays of the fun during the fummer, caufe
a prodigious heat all over Valles, and the more
fo as they are received upon a fandy foil, whence
they are ſtrongly reverberated, the winds being at
the fame time very weak. Hence it appears that
the ſecond hypothefis above related, is not founded
on truth; for if the force or agitation of the fouth
winds be the caufe which hinders the vapours from
rifing to the height neceffary for forming rain, this
cauſe generally ceafing in the fummer, the rain might
be expected to defcend; whereas quite the reverſe
happens, the Garuas being then much lefs common.
6. Particular times have been known when the nature
1
F 3
of
A VOYAGE TO
Book I.
t
}
of the country departing as it were from its ufual courſe,
formal fhowers have fallen, as we have already men-
tioned (chap. i.) in defcribing the towns of Chocope,
Truxillo, Tumbez, and other places; but with this
fingularity, that the winds continued at fouth, and
blew much stronger during the time of the rain, than
is ufual either in winter or fummer.
THESE fix preliminary principles are fo common
to this climate, that they may be applied to all the
places mentioned in this chapter; and are the only
guides that must be followed in determining the true
cauſe why it does not rain in Peru as in Europe, or,
more properly, as is common in the torrid zone.
It will readily be granted, that the wind blows
more ſtrongly in fome regions of the atmoſphere than
in others; experience itſelf having fufficiently proved
this to be fact as on high mountains, along whofe
fummits a ſtrong wind is felt, when at the foot, hard-
ly any can be perceived; at leaſt we found this to
be the cafe in all the mountains of the Cordilleras,
one of the greateſt inconveniences to us being the
ftrength of the wind. And indeed this is every where
fo common, that any perfon may be convinced of it
by only afcending a high tower, when he will foon
perceive the difference between the ſtrength of the
wind at the top and at the bottom. I am not igno-
rant that fome have endeavoured to prove, that on
the land this proceeds from the inequalities of its
furface, which hinder the winds from blowing in the
plains or low countries with that force which is felt
on eminences; but the fame thing happening at ſea,
as experience has abundantly proved, it appears be-
yond diſpute, that the furface is not the place where
the wind exerts its greateſt force. This being grant-
ed, it may be confidently afferted, that the fouth
winds blow with the greateſt force in a portion of the
atmoſphere at ſome diſtance from the earth; but nor
generally higher than that in which the rain is formed;
QF
1
CH. VI.
71
SOUTH AMERICA.
or where the aqueous particles unite fo as to form
drops of any fenfible gravity or magnitude. In this
country therefore the clouds or vapours elevated a-
bove this ſpace, that is, thofe which have the great-
eft degree of altitude, move with a much lefs velo-
city than the winds under them. Nor is it uncom-
mon in other climates, befides that of Valles, for
theſe clouds to move in a direction contrary to the
more denſe ones below it. Thus it appears to me,
that without the danger of advancing irregular
fuppofitions, the ſpace of the atmoſphere, where the
winds generally blow with the greateſt force, is that
where the large drops commonly called rain, are
formed.
Now in order to explain the fingularity of this re-
markable phænomenon, I conceive that in fummer,
when the atmoſphere is moft rarified, the fun, by the
influence of his rays, proportionally elevates the va-
pours of the earth, and gives them a greater degree of
rarifaction; for his beams being then in a more per-
pendicular direction to the earth, they have the power
of raifing them to a greater height. Thefe vapours
on their touching the lower part of the atmoſphere,
where the winds blow with the greateſt force, are
carried away before they can rife to the height re-
quired for uniting into drops, and confequently no
rain can be formed. For as the vapours iffue from
the earth, they are wafted along the lower region of
the atmoſphere, without any ftop; and the winds
blowing always from the fouth, and the vapours
being rarified proportionally to the heat of the fun,
its too great activity hinders them from uniting:
Hence in fummer the atmoſphere is clear, or free
from vapours.
In winter the rays of the fun being lefs perpendi-
cular to the furface of the earth, the atmoſphere be-
comes confiderably more condenfed, but the winds
from the fouth much more fo, as being loaded with
F 4
the
72
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
the frigorific particles from the frozen zone, which
particles it communicates to the vapours as they if
fue from the earth; and confequently renders them
much more condenfed than in fummer: Hence they
are hindered from rifing with the fame celerity as be-
fore.
To theſe muſt be added two other reafons, one,
that the rays of the fun for want of fufficient acti-
vity diffipates the vapours lefs, fo that they rife much
flower. The other that the region where the wind
has its greateſt velocity being, in this feafon, near
the earth, will not admit of their rifing to any height;
and thus they continue contiguous to its furface,
where they ſtill follow the fame direction, and form
the moift fog then felt; and having lefs fpace to di-
late themſelves than at a greater height, they, con-
fequently, fooner come into contact, and when fuf-
ficiently condenfed, defcend in a Garua.
In the middle of the day the garua ceaſes, being
then difperfed, which proceeds from the fun's rari-
fying the atmoſphere, whence the vapours afcend and
remain fufpended at a greater height, and thus they
are rendered more tenuious, and being raiſed to a
region where they have more room to dilate, they are
fo far difperfed as to become imperceptible.
AFTER all, it must be owned that both in fum-
mer and winter, fome vapours muft furmount the
difficulty of the wind in that region where its velo-
city is greateſt, and getting above it aſcend to a
greater height; tho' not indeed in the very part
where they firft reached this current of wind, but
at ſome diſtance from it; fo that theſe vapours are
to be confidered, on one hand, as yielding to the
current of the air, and, on the other, as afcending
in proportion to the rarefaction they have received
from the rays of the fun. Hence it follows, that
thefe vapours cannot be thofe which are moſt con-
denfed, as the difficulty of rifing is always proporti-
onal
CH. VI.
73
SOUTH AMERICA,
t
onal to the degree of condenſation; and at the fame
time their magnitude would render them more fuf-
ceptible of the impulfe of the wind. So that theſe
confequently being the mott fubtile or tenuious, on
having paffed that region, the celerity with which
they were before carried upwards is decreaſed, and
great numbers of them being united from that lofty
mift which is feen after the cloud is totally diffipat-
ed. This miſt cannot be converted into rain; for
having paffed above the region proper for its forma-
tion, all the parts become congealed, and their
weight can never be increafed fufficiently to over-
come the refiftance of the air which fupports them;
for the quantity of thoſe which have overcome this
obftacle being inconfiderable, they cannot be united
with a fufficient quantity of others to withſtand the
continual diffipation occafioned by the action of the
rays of the fun. Nor can they defcend in either
fnow or hail, as might be expected from their pre-
fent ſtate. Befides following always, tho' with lefs
velocity, the current of the wind, any fuch concre-
tion of them as to form a thick cloud is prevented;
for as we have already obferved, theſe miſts are fo
tenuious, as to afford in the day time a confuſed view
of the diſk of the fun, and of the ſtars in the night.
In order to render the premiſes agreeeable to ob-
fervation, one difficulty ftill remains, namely, that
thoſe lofty miſts are ſeen only in winter, and not in
fummer. But this, in my opinion, muft naturally
be the confequence; for befides the general reaſon
that the ſtronger influence of the rays of the fun di-
fperfes them, it proceeds from the increaſe of the
force of the winds during the winter, in a region
nearer the earth than in fummer; and the nearer the
lower part of this region is to the furface of the
earth, the nearer alfo will be the upper part; while,
on the contrary, in the fummer, the higher the lower
part of this current of air is, the higher will be alfo
its
}
74
BOOK I
A VOYAGE TO
its upper part; and, as we muft fuppofe, with all
philofophers, that the vapours of the earth can afcend
only to that height, where the gravity of the parti-
cles of the vapours are equal to thofe of the air; and
the rapidity of the wind extending in fummer to
thefe limits, they are confequently involved in its
violent impulfe; and thence there cannot be fuch a
multitude of conglomerations as to form the miſt
fo common in winter; for the winds in this feafon
ftrongly blowing thro' a region nearer the earth,
the agitation in the upper parts is proportionally lefs.
And this current of air being below the region to
which vapours can afcend, the space intercepted be-
tween the upper part of this current, and the part
to which vapours rife, becomes filled with them.
All this feems natural, and is confirmed by experi-
ence; for in winter the fouth winds are ftronger on
the land than in fummer. But as a further proof
may be thought neceffary, I have added the follow-
ing.
IT has been faid that in the town of Chocope,
two very hard and continual rains have happened;
and that the fame thing is more frequently feen at
Tumbeź, and other towns of thoſe parts, after fome
years of continual drought, which feems ftrange';
for that being in the country of Valles, and not
at all different from Lima, no rain would naturally
be expected there. Two caufes for this, however,
have occurred to me, one of them flowing from the
other. I fhall begin with the first as productive of
the fecond.
From what has been faid, it may be inferred, that
in a country or climate, where one and the fame
wind perpetually prevails, there can be no formal
rain; and in order to form it, either the wind muft
entirely ceafe, or an oppofite wind muft arife, which
by checking the courfe of the vapours, brings them
into contact with thofe lately exhaled from the earth,
and
CH. VI.
75
SOUTH AMERICA.
and cauſes them to condenfe in proportion as they rife
by the attraction of the fun, till being rendered hea-
vier than the air by which they were fupported, they
defcend in drops of water.
ON reconfidering the circumftances of what hap-
pened at Chocope, it will appear, that during the
whole day, the ſky was clear, and that it was not
before five in the evening that the rain began, and
with it the violence of the wind. It ſhould alſo be
obſerved that in the time of the Brifas in thoſe cli-
mates where they are periodical, they blow ftrongeſt
between the ſetting and rifing of the fun; and this
happening in September and the following months,
forms the fummer in Valles, when they enjoy clear
days and a lucid atmoſphere. This was the cafe at
Chocope at the time of that rain; for tho' the inha
bitants did not preciſely mention the feafon in which
that event happened, yet the feveral particulars re-
lated, eſpecially that the fouth winds then prevailed
with an uncommon force, fufficiently indicate that
it was in the fummer; as this would not have been
at all remarkable in winter, when they are very va-
riable and fometimes ftormy. It may therefore be
fafely concluded that theſe events happened during
the fummer; and, by way of corollary, that the Bri-
fas being ſtronger than ufual, and advancing fo far on
the continent as even to reach the fouth winds, they
were overpowered by them, and fhifted their point;
but the fucceeding fouth winds rendering it impoffible
to return in the fame place, they left their former re-
gion and blew in a current nearer the earth. By
which means the vapours which had been exhaling
during the whole day, after being carried by the
ftrongeft current of wind to a certain diſtance, afcend-
ed to the region where the Brifas prevailed; and be-
ing there repelled by them, had time to condenfe;
for being within that region where the rain is form-
ed, or where many imperceptible drops compofe one
2
of
76
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
of a larger magnitude and gravity, and being more
minutely divided by the influence of the fun they
continued to afcend, till that power ceafing by the
fetting of the fun, they again condenfed, and their
weight becoming too heavy to be fupported in the
air, they defcended in rain, which was the more
violent as the vapours were ftrongly repulfed by the
Brifas. At the dawn, thefe winds as ufual, began
to decreaſe, and the rain gradually leffened. The
fouth winds blew all day as before; and there being
then in the atmoſphere, no other winds to oppoſe
them, they carried with them the vapours as they
exhaled, and the atmoſphere continued clear and fe-
rene.
THIS happened at Chocope, fituated at a much
greater diftance from the parts to which the Brifas
extend than Tumbez, Piura, Sechura, and other
towns where this is more frequent, as being nearer
the equinoctial: notwithſtanding, no Brifas or north-
winds are felt in that part of the atmoſphere near the
furface of the earth. So that it is probable, or ra-
ther, indeed, evident from experience, that the
north winds at the time they prevail, more eaſily
reach to the countries neareft the equinoctial, than
to thoſe at a greater diſtance, tho' not ſo as to be
felt in the atmoſphere near the earth, but in a more
elevated region. Confequently, it is natural for
rains to be more frequent in the former than in the
latter, where thefe winds very feldom reach, whe-
ther in that part of the atmoſphere contiguous ta
the earth, or another, which being more diftant from
it they blow there more violently.
I AT firft declared againſt any pofitive affertion
that the opinion I have now laid before the reader,
is founded on fuch undoubted phyfical principles,
that no other can be advanced more conformable
to phænomena; it being difficult immediately to
fix on caufes which agreeing with all circumftances,
leaves
CH. VI.
77
SOUTH AMERICA.
leaves the mind entirely fatisfied: And as all within
the reach of human perfpicuity cannot be accommo-
dated to every particular, as entire conviction re-
quires, let it fuffice that I have here delivered my
thoughts, leaving the naturalifts at full liberty to in-
veftigate the true caufe, and when diſcovered, to re-
ject my hypotheſes.
As rain is feldom or never ſeen at Lima, fo that
place is alfo equally free from tempefts; that thoſe
who have neither vifited the mountains nor travell-
ed into other parts, as Guayaquil or Chili, are abſo-
lute ſtrangers to thunder and lightning; nothing of
that kind being known here. Accordingly the in-
habitants are extreamly terrified when they firft hear
the former or fee the latter. But it is very remark-
able, that what is here entirely unknown, fhould be
fo common at thirty leagues diftant, or even leſs,
to the eaſt of Lima; it being no farther to the moun-
tains, where violent rains and tempefts are as fre-
quent as at Quito. The winds, tho' fettled in the
abovementioned points, are fubject to variations, but
almoſt imperceptible, as we fhall explain. They
are alfo very gentle, and even in the fevereft win-
ters, never known to do any damage by their vio-
lence; fo that if this country was free from other
inconveniences and evils, its inhabitants could have
nothing to defire, in order to render their lives tru-
ly agreeable. But with thefe fignal advantages, na-
ture has blended inconveniences, which greatly di-
miniſh their value; and reduce this country even
below thofe, on which nature has not beftowed fuch
great riches and fertility.
If has been obferved, that the winds generally
prevailing in Valles, throughout the whole year,
comes from the fouth; but this admits of fome ex-
ceptions, which, without any effential alteration, im-
plies that fometimes the winds come from the
north, but fo very faint, as fcarcely to move the
vanes
1
1
78
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK I
vanes of the ſhips, and confift only of a very weak
agitation of the air, juft fufficient to indicate that
the wind is changed from the fouth. This change
is regularly in winter, and with it the fog immedi
ately begins, which in fome meaſure feems to coin-
cide with what has been offered with regard to the
reaſon why ſhowers are unknown at Lima. This
breath of wind is fo particular, that from the very
inftant it begins, and before the wind is condenſed,
the inhabitants are unhappily fenfible of it by vio-
lent head-aches, fo as eaſily to know what fort of
weather is coming on before they ftir out of their
chambers.
CHAP. VII.
Inconveniences, Diftempers, and Evils, to which
the City of LIMA is fubject; particularly
Earthquakes.
NE of the inconveniences of Lima, during the
fummer, is that of being tormented with fleas
and bugs, from which the utmost care is not fufficient
to free the inhabitants. Their prodigious increaſe is
partly owing to the duft of that dung, with which
the ſtreets are continually covered; and partly to the
flatneſs of the roofs, where the fame duft, wafted
thither by the winds, produce theſe troubleſome in-
fects, which are continually dropping thro' the cre-
vices of the boards into the apartments, and by
that means render it impoffible for the inhabitants,
notwithstanding all their pains, to keep their houſes
free from them. The mofchitos are very trouble-
fome, but much lefs fo than the former.
THE next, and indeed a moft dreadful circum-
ſtance, is that of earthquakes, to which this coun
}
try
CH. VII.
79
SOUTH AMERICA.
try is fo fubject, that the inhabitants are under con-
tinual apprehenfions of being, from their ſuddenneſs
and violence, buried in the ruins of their own
houſes. Several deplorable inftances of this kind
have happened in this unfortunate city; and lately
proved the total deſtruction of all its buildings. Thefe
terrible concuffions of nature are not regular, either
with regard to their continuance or violence. But
the interval between them is never of a length fuf-
ficient to obliterate the remembrance of them. In
the year 1742 I had the curiofity to obſerve the di-
ftance of time between thofe which happened fuc-
ceffively for a certain fpace. 1. On the 9th of May
at three quarters after nine in the morning. 2. The
19th of the fame month at midnight. 3. The 27th
at 35 minutes after three in the evening. 4. The
12th of June at three quarters paft five in the morn-
ing. 5. The 14th of October at nine at night, all
which I carefully noted. And it must be obferved
that theſe concuffions were the moſt confiderable,
and lafted near a minute; particularly that of the
27th of May, which continued near two minutes,
beginning with one violent fhock, and gradually
terminating in tremulous motions. Between theſe
above noted were feveral others, which I omitted, as
being neither fo lafting nor violent.
Theſe earthquakes, tho' fo fudden, have their
prefages, one of the principal of which is, a rumb-
ling noiſe in the bowels of the earth, about a minute
before the fhocks are felt; and this noife does not
continue in the place where it was firft produced,
but feems to pervade all the adjacent fubterraneous
parts. This is followed by difmal howlings of the
dogs, which feem to have the first perception of the
approaching danger. The beafts of burden paffing
the streets, ftop, and, by a natural inftinct ſpread
open their legs, the better to fecure themfelves from
falling. On thefe portents the terrified inhabitants fly
!
from
80
A VOYAGE ΤΟ
1
BOOK 1.
from their houſes into the ſtreets with fuch precipita-
tion, that if it happens in the night, they appear quite
naked; fear and the urgency of the danger, banishing
at once all fenfe of decency. Thus the streets
exhibit fuch odd and fingular figures, that might
even afford matter for diverfion, were it poffible,
in fo terrible a moment. This fudden concourfe is
accompanied with the cries of children waked out of
their fleep, blended with the lamentations of the wo-
'men, whofe agonizing prayers to the faints, increaſe
"the common fear and confuſion: The men alſo are too
much affected to refrain from giving vent to their
terror; fo that the whole city exhibits one dreadful
fcene of confternation and horror. Nor does this
end with the fhock, none venturing to return to
their houſes thro' fear of a repetition, which fre-
quently demolishes thoſe buildings which had been
weakened by the firft.
盎
​*
My attention to fet down the exact time of the
abovementioned fhocks, taught me, that they hap-
pen indifferently at half ebb, or half flood; but never
at high or low water; which fufficiently confutes what
fome have confidently advanced, namely, that earth-
quakes always happen during the fix hours of ebb,
but never during the flood; becauſe this favours the
hypothefis they have advanced to account for their
origin and cauſes; an hypothefis which, in my opi-
nion, does not fo fufficiently correfpond with obfer-
vations, as to recommend itſelf to the affent of in-
telligent perfons.
THE nature of this country is fo adapted to earth-
quakes, that all ages have feen their terrible devafta-
tions; and that nothing may be wanting to fatisfy the
curiofity of the reader, I fhall introduce the account
of that which laid this large and fplendid city totally
in ruins, with a fhort narrative of the moſt remarkable
that have been felt in latter ages.
1. The firft concuffion fince the eſtabliſhment of
the
;
CH. VII.
81
SOUTH AMERICA.
$
f
the Spaniards in thefe parts, happened in 1582,
a few years after the foundation of Lima; but the
damage was much less than in fome of the fuc-
ceeding, being chiefly confined to the city of Are-
quipa, which being fituated near that ſpot, where
the motion of the earth was moſt violent; the greateſt
part of it was deſtroyed.
2. On the 9th of July 1586, Lima was viſited
with another earthquake, and fo violent, that even
to this time it is folemnly commemorated on the day
of the vifitation of Elizabeth.
3. In 1609, another like the former happened.
4. On the 27th of November 1630, fuch prodi-
gious damage was done in the city by an earth-
quake, and the entire ruin of it apprehended, that
in acknowledgment of its deliverance, a feſtival,
called Nueftra Senora del Milagro, is annually cele-
brated on that day.
5. In the year 1655; on the 3d of November,
the moſt ſtately edifices, and a great number of
houfes, were thrown down by an earthquake; the in-
habitants fled into the country, and remained there
feveral days, to avoid the danger they were threat-
ened with in the city.
6. On the 17th of June 1678, another earthquake
happened, by which feveral houſes were deftroyed, and
the churches confiderably damaged.
7. One of the moſt dreadful of which we have any
account, was that of the 20th of October, 1687.
It began at four in the morning, with the deftruc-
tion of feveral publick edifices and houſes, whereby
great numbers of perfons perifhed; but this was
little more than a prefage of what was to follow,
and preferved the greateſt part of the inhabitants from
being buried under the ruins of the city. The fhock
was repeated at fix in the morning with fuch impe-
tuous concuſſions, that whatever had withſtood the
firft, was now laid in ruins; and the inhabitants
VOL. II.
G
thought
}
82
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
C
3
C-
thought themſelves very fortunate in being only fpec-
tators of the general devaftation from the streets and
fquares, to which they had directed their flight on
the first warning. During this fecond concuffion
the fea retired confiderably from its bounds, and re-
turning in mountainous waves, totally overwhelmed
Callao, and the neighbouring parts, together with
the miferable inhabitants.
8. On the 29th of September, 1697, this place
was vifited by another terrible earthquake.
9. On the 14th of July, 1699, a great number of
houſes were déftroyed by another concuffion.
3
to. The 6th of February, 1716, a like difafter.
11. On the 8th of January, 1725, another.
12. On the 2d of December, 1732, was another
earthquake at one in the morning.
13, 14, 15. In the years 1690, 1734, and 1745,
three others happened, but neither violent nor laft-
ing. But all theſe were lefs terrible than the laft, as
"will appear from the following account of it.
16. On the 28th of October, 1746, at half an
hour after ten at night, five hours and three quar-
ters before the full of the moon, the concuffions be-
gan with fuch violence, that in little more than three
minutes, the greateſt part, if not all the buildings,
great and fmall in the whole city, were deftroyed,
burying under their ruins thofe inhabitants who
had not made fufficient hafte into the ftreets and
fquares; the only places of fafety in theſe terrible
convulfions of nature. At length the horrible ef-
fects of this firft fhock ceafed, but the tranquility
was of fhort duration, concuffions returning with
fuch frequent repetitions, that the inhabitants, ac-
cording to the account fent of it, computed two
hundred in the first twenty four hours, and to the
24th of February of the following year, 1747, when
the narrative was dated, no lefs than four hundred
and
*
CH.VII.
83
SOUTH AMERICA.
and fifty fhocks were obferved, fome of which, if
lefs lafting, were equal to the firft in violence.
THE fort of Callao, at the very fame hour ſunk into
the like ruins; but what it fuffered from the earth-
quake in its buildings, was inconfiderable, when
compared to the terrible cataſtrophe which followed;
for the fea, as is ufual on fuch occafions, receding to
a confiderable diftance, returned in mountainous waves
foaming with the violence of the agitation, and fud-
denly turned Callao, and the neighbouring country
into a fea. This was not, however, totally per-
formed by the firft fwell of the waves; for the fea
retiring further, returned with ſtill more impetuofity;
the ftupendious water covering both the walls and
other buildings of the place; fo that whatever had
eſcaped the firft, was now totally overwhelmed by
thofe terrible mountains of waves; and nothing re-
mained except a piece of the wall of the fort of Santa
Cruz, as a memorial of this terrible devaſtation. There
were then twenty-three fhips and veffels, great and
fmall, in the harbour, of which nineteen were abfo-
lutely funk, and the other four, among which was a
frigate called St. Fermin, carried by the force of the
waves to a great diſtance up the country.
THIS terrible inundation extended to other ports
on the coaft, as Cavallos and Guanape; and the
towns of Chancay, Guaura, and the valleys della Ba-
ranca, Sape, and Pativilca, underwent the fame fate
as the city of Lima. The number of perfons who
periſhed in the ruin of that city, before the 31ft of
the fame month of October, according to the bodies
found, amounted to 1300; befides the maimed and
wounded, many of which lived only a fhort time in
torture. At Callao, where the number of inhabitants
amounted to about 4000, two hundred only eſcaped;
and twenty-two of theſe by means of the above-
mention'd fragment of a wall.
ACCORDING to an account fent to Lima after this
G 2
accident,
84.
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK I
accident, a volcano in Lucanas burft forth the fame
night, and ejected fuch quantities of water, that the
whole country was overflowed; and in the mountain.
near Patas, called Converfiones de Caxamarquilla,
three other volcanos burft, diſcharging frightful tor-
rents of water; like that of Carguayraffo, mentioned
in the firſt Vol. of this Work.
SOME days before this deplorable event, fubterra-
neous, noiſes were heard at Lima, fometimes refem-
bling the bellowing of oxen, and at others the
difcharges of artillery. And even after the earth-
quake they were ftill heard during the filence of the
night; a convincing proof that the inflammable
matter was not totally exhaufted, nor the cauſe of the
fhocks abfolutely removed.
THE frequent earthquakes to which fouth Ame-
rica, particularly Lima, and all the country of
Valles is fubject, opens a field for enquiry not leſs
ample than that juſt mentioned, concerning their
cauſes. Many hypothefes have been formed by
philofophers; but the generality, and with the
greateft appearance of truth, agree in deducing them
principally from the violent force of the air con-
tained in fulphureous fubftances and other minerals,
and alfo that confined in the pores of the earth;
which being too much compreffed by the incumbent
load, make a very violent refiftance. This is fo far
from implying any contradiction, that beſides being
countenanced by reaſon, it is alſo confirmed by expe-
rience. But the apparent difficulty confifts in ex-
plaining how the vents of the earth become again
filled with air, after one concuffion has happened;
it being natural to think, that the quantity which
ftruggled for vent, was thereby difcharged, and
that a long interval of time was neceffary before
another could be produced. Alfo why fome countries
are more fubject to thefe terrible convulfions than
others. Though this fubject has been treated of by
feveral
CH. VII.
85
SOUTH AMERICA.
feveral authors, I think it my duty here to deliver
the opinion which to me feems most probable.
EXPERIENCE has fufficiently fhewed, efpecially in
this country by the many volcanoes in the Cordil-
leras which paſs through it, that the bursting of a
new burning mountain caufes a violent earthquake,
fo as totally to deftroy all the towns within its
reach; as happened at the opening of the volcano in
the defart of Carguagoazo as mentioned in Vol. I.
This tremulous motion, which we may properly
call an earthquake, does not fo ufually happen in
cafe of a fecond eruption, when an aperture has
been before made; or, at leaſt, the motion it cauſes
in the earth is comparatively but ſmall. Whence it
is inferred that an aperture being once made, how-
ever the ſubſtances in the bowels of the mountain
may
take fire, the convulfion of the earth is feldom
or never felt a fecond time. The reafon of which is,
that the fudden reiteration of this accident greatly
augments the volume of the air by rarefaction, and as
it finds an eafy paffage without labouring in the.
bowels of the earth for a vent, no other concuffion
is produced than what muſt follow from the eruption
of a great quantity of air through an aperture too
narrow for its volume.
THE formation of volcanoes is now well known;
and that they owe their origin to fulphureous, ni-
trous, and other combuftible fubftances in the bow •
els of the earth; for thefe being intermixed, and, as it
were, turned into a kind of pafte by the fubterraneous
waters, ferment to a certain degree, when they take
fire, and by dilating the contiguous wind or air,
and alſo that within their pores, fo that its volume
is prodigiouſly increaſed beyond what it was before
the inflammation, it produces the fame effect as
gunpowder, when fired in the narrow space of a
mine; but with this difference, that powder on be-
ing fired immediately difappears, whereas the vol-
G 3
cano
86
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
F
cano being once ignited continues fo till all the
oleaginous and fulphureous particles contained in the
mountain are confumed.
.
VOLCANOES are of two kinds, contracted and di-
lated. The former, are found where a great quan-
tity of inflammable matter is confined in fmäll
fpace; the latter where thefe combuftibles are fcat-
tered at a confiderable diftance from one another.
The firft are chiefly contained in the bowels of
mountains, which may be confidered as the natural
depofitaries of thefe fubftances. The fecond may be
confidered as ramifications, which, tho' proceeding
from the former, are, however, independent, ex-
tending themſelves under the plains, and traverfing
them in feveral directions. This being admitted
it will appear, that in whatever country volcanoes,
or depofitaries of thefe fubftances, are very common,
the plains will be more diverfified with thefe rami-
fications; for we are not to imagine that it is only
within the bofoms of mountains that fubftances of
this nature exiſt, and that they are not diffeminated
through all the parts of the adjacent region. Thus
the country now under confideration, abounding in
thefe igneous fubftances more than any other, muft,
by the continual inflammation which neceffarily fol
lows their natural preparation for it, be more expofed
to earthquakes.
BESIDES the fuggeftions of natural reaſon, that a
country containing many volcanoes muft alfo be
every where veined with ramifications of correfpon-
dent fubftances, it is confirmed by experiment in
Peru; where we find almoft univerfally, mines of
nitre, fulphure, vitriol, falt, bitumen, and other in-
flammatory fubftances, which fufficiently confirm the
truth of thefe inferences.
THE foil both of Quito and Valles, particularly
the latter, is hollow and ſpongy, fo as to be fuller of
cavities or pores, than is ufually feen in that of
other
CH. VII.
87
SOUTH AMERICA.
other countries; and confequently abounds with fub-
terraneous waters. Befides which, as I fhall pre-
ſently fhew more at large, the waters, from the ice
continually melting on the mountains, being filtrat-
ed through theſe pores during their defcent, pene-
trate deep into the cavities of the earth; and dur-
ing their fubterraneous courfe, moiſten, and turn
into a kind of pafte, thofe fulphureous and nitrous
ſubſtances; and though they are not here in fuch
prodigious quantities as in volcanoes, yet they are
fufficient, from their inflammatory quality, to rarify
the air contained in them, which eafily incorpo-
rating itſelf with that confined in the innumerable
pores, cavities or veins of the earth, compreffes it
by its greater expanfion, and at the fame time rari.
fies it by its heat; but the cavities being too narrow
to admit of its proper dilatation, it ftruggles for a
vent, and thefe efforts fhake all the contiguous
parts; till at last, where it finds the leaft refiftance,
it forces itſelf a paffage, which fometimes clofes a-
gain by the tremulous motion it occafions, and at
others continues open; as may be feen in different
parts of all theſe countries. When on account of
the refiftance being equal, it finds a paffage in feve
ral parts, the chafms or fiffures are generally fmaller,
fo that rarely any veftiges remain after the concuf-
fion. At other times when the fubterranean cavities
are fo large as to form fubterranean caverns, they not
only rend the earth, and at every fhock leave it full
of difruptions; but alfo caufe it to fink into fpa-
cious hollows; as I particularly obferved near the
town of Guaranda, a place in the jurifdiction of
Chimbo, in the province of Quito; where in the
year 1744 all the ground on one fide of the chaẩm
funk near a yard, the other fide rifing in the fame
proportion, though with fame inequalities on both
fides.
上
​THE loud fubterraneous noifes preceding earth-
quakes,
G 4
A
88
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
quakes, and which imitate thunder at a distance,
feem to correfpond with the abovementioned cauſe and
formation of earthquakes, as they can only proceed
from the rarefaction of the air, on the ignition of the
exploſive ſubſtances, which being impetuouſly propa-
gated thro' all the caverns of the earth; propelling,
and at the fame time dilating what is contained in
them, till all the cavities being pervaded, and no vent
found, the efforts for a further dilatation, begin, and
form the concuffion with which it terminates.
IT must be obſerved that 'at the time when the
air, which had been confined within the earth, bursts
through it, neither the light nor fire emitted from
the chaſms are feen. The reafon is, that this light
and fire exift only at the inftant when the matter be-
comes inflamed, and the air fpreading itſelf through
all the veins, the light is extinguiſhed by its dilata-
tion, and becomes afterwards imperceptible. It is
neceffary to fuppofe that there must be fome, tho' a
fhort interval, between the inflammation and effect.
Neither is the flame permanent, the fubftances ig-
nited not containing thofe folid and oleaginous par-
ticles which fupply the volcanoes. Befides they are
not in fufficient quantity to afcend from the fubter-
raneous caverns where they took fire to the fuper-
ficies of the earth. Farther, this not being the place
where the matter was originally contained, but that
where it has forced a paffage for the quantity of
air which its rarefaction augmented, the first light
is loft among the meanders of its courfe, and there-
fore not to be feen when the wind violently forces
a paffage. There have, however, been inftances
when the light has been feen, though much oftner
the fmoke, but this is generally loft in the clouds of
duft afcending at the time of the concuffion.
7.
THE fhocks are repeated at intervals, of a few
days, fometimes of a few hours; proceeding from
the matter being difperfed in different places, and
each
CH, VII.
89
SOUTH AMERICA.
each in a different degree of aptitude for inflam-
mation, one part kindling after another fucceffive-
ly, as each is more or lefs prepared. Hence pro-
ceed alſo the different violence of the fhocks and the
different intervals of time. For the quantity firſt in-
flamed increaſes, by its heat, other inflammable por-
tions of matter; whence a part which would not have
been ignited till after fome days, by means of this ad-
ventitious fire, becomes fo within a few hours. The
fecond fhocks are more violent, and cauſe a greater
deſtruction than the firft; for the fire of the portion
of inatter which is first inflamed, though in itſelf
fmall, is fufficient to accelerate the fermentation of
a much larger quantity, and confequently muſt be
attended with more powerful effects.
THOUGH the fummer here, as we have already
obferved, is confiderably warm, yet is it not pro-
ductive of venomous creatures, which in this coun-
try are not known; and the fame may be faid of
all Valles, though there are fome parts, as Tumbez
and Piura, where the heat is nearly equal to that at
Guayaquil. This fingularity can therefore proceed
from no other caufe than the natural drought of the
climate.
1
THE diftempers moft common at Lima are ma-
lignant, intermittent and catarrhous fevers, pleurifies,
and conftipations; and theſe rage,continually in the
city. The fmall-pox is alſo known here as at Quito,
but is not annual; though when it prevails, great
numbers are ſwept away by it.
CONVULSIONS are likewiſe very common and no
lefs fatal. This diforder though unknown at Quito,
is frequent all over Valles, but more dangerous in
fome parts than in others. Something has already
been faid of this diftemper in our account of Car-
thagena, but a more circumftantial deſcription of it
was referved for this place.
!
THIS
90
BOOK I
A VOYAGE TO
i
THIS distemper is divided into two kinds, the
common or partial, and the malignant or arched
convulfions. They both come on when nature is
ſtruggling in the crifis of fome acute diftemper; but
with this important difference, that thofe attacked
with the former, often recover, though the greater
part die on the third or fourth day, the term of its
duration; while thoſe who have the misfortune of
being attacked by the latter, fink under it in two or
three days, it being very extraordinary to recover,
and is therefore termed malignant.
THE fpafms or convulfions confift in a total in-
activity of the mufcles, and a conftriction of the
nerves of the whole body, beginning with thoſe of
the head; and thefe nerves being the channels
which convey nouriſhment to the body, and this
nouriſhment being precluded by the conftriction of
its conduits, they all fucceffively fuffer; the muf
cles, by having loft their activity, cannot affift in
the motion of the nerves, and theſe being.conftring-
ed, can no longer perform their office. Add to
this, a pungent humour difperfing itſelf through all
the membranes of the body, and caufing infupport-
able pains; ſo that the groaning patient labours un-
der inconceiveable tortures, which are ftill increaſed
on his being moved, though with the greateſt care
and gentleneſs, from one fide to the other. The
throat is fo contracted that nothing can be convey-
ed into the ftomach. The jaws are alſo fometimes
fo cloſely locked, as impoffible to be opened. Thus
the miferable patient lies without motion, and tor-
tured in every part of his body, till nature quite ex-
haufted falls a victim to this deleterious diftemper.
In the partial kind, the pulſe is no more affected
than in the diftemper which preceded it, and com-
monly abates the violence of a fever. But in the
malignant kind it augments, the circulations being
quickened; and whether it be the effect of the humour
impe-
CH. VII.
91
SOUTH AMERICA.
¿
impetuouſly circulating through every part, or of the
pain proceding from the laceration of the membranes,
and abrading the mufcles, the patient falls into a le-
thargy, but which does not remove the torturing fen-
fation of theſe punctures, often fo infupportable, that
the miferable patient violently turns himſelf, and thus
augments his agonies, as evidently appears from his
piercing cries and groans.
THE malignant or arched fpafm, even in the firſt
ſtage is fo violent, as to cauſe a contraction of the
nerves of the vertebræ from the brain downwards;
and as the diftemper increaſes, and the malignant
humour acquires great activity, the nerves become
more and more conftricted, that the body of the
patient, contrary to nature, inclines backward into an
arch, and all the bones become diflocated. However
terrible the pains refulting from hence may feem, they
are ftill increaſed by thofe of the other fpecies of
convulfions, when the violence is fuch that the pa
tient uſually lofes all fenfation, and falls into a
total inaction, not having breath to utter his com-
plaints.
It is common at the beginning of this diftemper
to be totally convulfed, fo that every part of the
patient is affected, and, during the continuance, is,
as it were, deprived of all fenfation. Their return
is more frequent and lafting as the diftemper in-
creafes, till nature becomes entirely fpent; when the
lethargic fits fucceed, and it is generally in one of
thefe that the patient breathes his laſt.
THE ufual method of treating this diftemper is
by keeping both the bed, and the chamber very
cloſe, even with a fire in it, that the pores being
opened by the heat, the tranſpiration may be more
copious. Laxative clyfters are often injected to
mollify the contractions of the inteftines, and other
internal parts. External applications are alfo ap-
plied to foften the parts, and open the ducts by
which
2.
92
A VOYAGE TO BOOK I.
which nature may evacuate the morbid humour. For
the fame intention and to check its progreſs, cor-
dials and diuretic draughts are prefcribed; and alfo
the bath; but the latter only at the beginning of the
firſt ſtage of the diftemper; for if it is found to
increaſe on the ſecond day, bathing is no longer
ordered.
THE Women of Lima are fubject to a diftemper,
extreamly painful, very contagious, and almoſt in-
curable: namely, a cancer in the matrix, which even
at the beginning is attended with fuch excruciating
pains, that their lives are one continued feries of
groans and complaints. During its progreſs they
diſcharge great quantities of morbid humours, be-
come attenuated, fall into a ſtate of languor, which
gradually puts a period to their lives. It ufually
continues fome years, with intervals of eaſe, during
which if the evacuations do not entirely ceafe, they
are confiderably intermitted; the pains feem over, and
they are capable of dreffing themſelves and walking
abroad; but the diſeaſe ſuddenly returns with double
violence, and the patient becomes totally difabled.
This distemper comes on fo imperceptibly, as not
to be indicated either by the countenance or pulfe,
till at its height; and fuch is the contagion of it,
that it is contracted only by fitting in the fame chair
commonly uſed by an infected perfon, or wearing
her cloaths; but it has not been known to affect the
men, huſbands ufually living with their wives till
the laſt ſtage of the diftemper. Two caufes are af
figned for this malady, their exceffive ufe of per-
fumes, which they always carry about them, and
may doubtless contribute greatly to promote it; the
other a continual riding in their calafhes, but this
does not ſeem to be of fo much confequence as the
former. For then the moſt diftinguiſhed of the fair
fex in other countries, who ride in coaches, and
even
CH.VIII. SOUTH AMERICA:
93
even uſe the more violent exercife of the horſe,
would not be exempt from it.
SLOW or hectic fevers alfo prevail greatly in theſe
countries, and are likewife contagious, but more
from a want of a proper care in the furniture and
apparel of the perfons infected, than any malignancy
of the climate.
THE venereal difeafe is equally common in this
country as in thoſe we have already mentioned;
it is indeed general in all that part of America;
and as little attention is given to it till arrived to a
great height, the general cuftom in all thofe parts,
a repetition here would be needlefs.
CHAP. VIII.
Fertility of the Territories of LIMA, and the
manner of cultivating the foil.
I
This natural to think that a country, where rain
is feldom or ever known, muft, of neceffity, be
totally barren; whereas the country of Lima enjoys
a fertility to be envied, producing all kinds of grain,
and a prodigious variety of fruits. Here induftry
and art fupply that moiſture which the clouds feem
to withhold; and the foil is by this means rendered
remarkably fruitful, amidſt a continual drought.
It has already been obferved, that one of the prin-
cipal cares of the Yncas was the cutting and dif-
pofing in the moſt advantageous manner, trenches
or fmall canals, in order to conduct the waters of
the rivers to nouriſh every part, and render large
fields capable of producing grain. The Spaniards
finding theſe uſeful works ready executed to their
hands, took care to keep them in the fame order;
and by theſe are watered the fpacious fields of
*
wheat
94
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK I.
wheat and barley, large meadows, plantations of
fugar canes, and olive trees, vineyards and gardens
of all kinds; all yielding uncommon plenty. Lima
differs from Quito, where the fruits of the earth
have no determined feafons; but here the harveſts
are gathered in, and the trees drop their leaves, ac-
cording to their reſpective natures; for thofe which
grow fpontaneously in a hot climate, though the
livelinefs of their verdure fades, their leaves do not
fall off till others fupply their place. The bloffoms
alfo have their refpective, times, and are correfpon
dently fucceeded by fruits; fo that this country
refembles thofe of the temperate zones, no lefs in
the product and feafons of corn, bloffoms, fruits
and flowers, than in the difference of winter and
fummer.
By
BEFORE the earthquake 1687, when this city fuf-
fered in fo deplorable a manner, the harvefts of
wheat and barley were fufficient to fupply the wants
of the country without any importation, efpecially
of wheat; but by this convulfion of nature, the foil
was fo viciated, that the wheat rotted foon after it
was fown, occafioned, probably, by the vaft clouds
of fulphureous particles then exhaled, and the prodi-
gious quantities of nitrous effluvia diffuſed thorough it.
This obliged the owners of the lands to apply them to
other ufes, and accordingly many of them were turned
into meadows of clover, plantations of fugar-canes,
and other vegetables, which they found not fubject to
the fame misfortune. After the land had continued
forty years in this ftate of fterility, the hufbandmen
began to perceive fuch an alteration in the foil, as
promiſed a ſpeedy return to its former goodneſs.
Accordingly fome trials, were fuccefsfully made with
wheat, and by degrees that grain was found to
thrive as before that dreadful event. But whether
it be from the other plants, which have been culti
vated in thoſe parts, or from any miſtruſt of the
buf-
t
CH. VIII.
95
SOUTH AMERICA;
huſbandmen, the fame quantity has not been fown
as before. It is natural to think that the late dread-
ful earthquake muſt have had the fame pernicious
effects on the foil. Tho' by means of the eſtabliſh-
ment of the corn trade with Chili fince that time,
the confequences will not be fo fenfibly felt. The
fields in the neighbourhood of Lima are chiefly
fown with clover, of which there is here a confump-
tion not to be paralleled in any other place; it being
the common fodder for all beafts, particularly the
mules and horfes, of which there is here an incon-
ceivable number.
THE other parts of the country are taken up with
plantations already mentioned, among which thoſe
of canes are not the leaft, and yield an excellent
kind of fugar. All theſe fields and plantations are
cultivated by negro flaves, purchaſed for this fer-
vice; and the fame is feen in the other improved
parts of Valles.
THE olive plantations appear like thick forefts; for
beſides the height, magnitude, and fulneſs of leaves of
thefe trees, in all which they exceed thoſe of Spain,
they are never pruned, by which means their branches
became fo interwoven, that the light cannot pene-
trate through their foliage. The plough is not uſed
here, the only cultivation they require, being to
clear the holes made at the foot of each for receiv-
ing the water, to keep the trenches open which con-
vey it, and every three or four years to cut down
all fhoots or cions, in order to form paffages for
gathering the fruit. With this ſmall trouble the
inhabitants have an uncommon plenty of the fineſt
olives, which they either commit to the preſs for
oil, or pickle, they being particularly adapted to
the latter, both with regard to their beauty, large-
nefs, and flavour. Their oil is much preferable to
that of Spain.
THE Country Contiguous to the city is covered
with
96
A VOYAGE ΤΟ
+
BOOK I
with gardens, producing all the herbs and fruits
known in Spain, and of the fame goodnefs and
beauty, befides thofe common to America; all which
flouriſh here in a very uncommon degree; fo that
none of the parts of Peru, at leaſt fuch as we vifited,
are to be compared with thofe of the neighbourhood
of Lima, where every place is covered with fruits
and efculent vegetables.
IT alfo enjoys another fingular advantage, the
whole year being as it were fummer with regard to
the plenty and freſhneſs of fruits; for the feafons of
the year varying alternately in Valles and the moun-
zains, when the time of fruits is over in Valles, it
begins on the ſkirts of the mountains; and the dif
tance from Lima being not above twenty five or
thirty leagues, they are brought thither, and by this
means the city is conftantly fupplied with fruits, ex-
cept a few, as grapes, melons and water-melons,
which requiring a hot climate, do not come to
perfection in the mountains.
THE grapes are of various kinds; and among them,
one called the Italian, vety larege and delicious. The
vines extend themſelves on the furface of the ground,
which is very well adapted to fupport them, being
either ftony or full of fand. Thefe vines are pruned
and watered at proper times, and thrive remarkably
without any other care.
No other culture is beftowed on thofe defigned
for wine, for both at Ica, Piſco, Naſca, and all
other parts where they grow, they are form'd into
efpaliers. None of the grapes near Lima are uſed
in making wine, the demand for them in other re-
ſpects being too large.
THE foil is ftony and fandy, that is, confifting of
fmooth flints or pebbles, which are fo numerous that
as other foils are entirely fand, rock, or earth, this
is wholly of the above ftones; and in fome parts
prove very inconvenient to travellers, whether in a
carriage
!
CH.VIII.
97
SOUTH AMERICA.
carriage or on horfeback. The arable lands have
a ftratum of about a foot or two of earth, but be-
low that the whole confifts entirely of ftones. From
this circumftance, the fimilarity of all the neigh-
bouring coafts, and the bottom of the fea, this
whole ſpace may be concluded to have been for-
merly covered by the ocean, to the diſtance of 3 or 4
leagues, or even farther, beyond its prefent limits.
This is particularly obfervable in a bay about five
leagues north of Callao, called Marques, where in all
appearance, not many years fince, the fea covered above
half a league of what is now Terra Firma, and the ex-
tent of a league and a half along the coaft.
THE rocks in the moſt inland part of this bay
are perforated and ſmoothed like thoſe waſhed by
the waves; a fufficient proof that the fea formed
theſe large cavities, and undermined ſuch prodigious
maffes as lie on the ground, by its continual elifions;
and it feems natural to think that the like muſt have
happened in the country contiguous to Lima, and
that the parts, confifting of pebbles like thoſe at
the bottom of the adjacent fea, were formerly co-
vered by the water.
ANOTHER fingularity in this arid country is, the
abundance of fprings, water being found every
where with little labour, by digging only four or
five feet below the furface. This may arife from
two cauſes; the one, that the earth, being, from its
compofition very fpungy, the water of the fea
eaſily infinuates itſelf to a great diftance, and is filtra-
ted in paffing through its pores. The other, that the
many torrents after defcending from the mountains,
foon loſe themſelves in thefe plains, but continue
their courfe along the fubterranean veins of the earth;
for this ftony quality of the foil from the nature of
the fprings cannot extend to any great depth, and
underneath it the ftratum is hard and compact;
Confequently the water muſt be conveyed to the
VOL. II.
H
.moft
58
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
*
moſt porous parts, which being the ftony, it there
precipitates into a fubterranean courfe, leaving the fur-
face dry. We have already obferved that from ma-
ny of the rivers in Valles, though apparently dry, the
inhabitants procure a fufficient quantity of water by
digging wells in the beds over which their wateis
run in the winter: others might be paffed without
being known, but the bottom confifting entirely of
pebbles, wherever the beafts fet their feet, the water
immediately oozes out. The reafon of this is, that
the water at that time runs a little below the furface,
and I do not doubt but the fame will be found
in all Valles, though at different depths in different
places.
THIS plenty of fubterraneous ftreams is doubtlefs
of great advantage to the fertility of the country,
particularly with regard to the larger plants, whofe
roots ftrike deepeft; and this feems a bountiful in-
dulgence of the wife author of nature, who to pro-
vide againft the fterility which would certainly affect
thefe countries from a want of water, has fent a
fupply from the mountains, either in open rivers or
fubterraneous canals.
THE lands in the jurifdiction of Chancay, like
the other parts of the coafts of Peru, are manured
with the dung of certain fea birds, which abound
here in a very extraordinary manner. Theſe they
call Guanoes, and the dung Guano, the Indian name
for excrement in general. Theſe birds, after ſpend-
ing the whole day in catching their food in the fea,
repair at night to reft on the iflands near the coaft,
and their number being fo great as entirely to cover
the ground, they leave a proportionable quantity of
excrement or dung. This is dried by the heat of the
fun into a cruft, and is daily encreafing, fo that
notwithstanding great quantities are taken away, it
is never exhaufted. Some will have this Guano to
be
Chap. I. of this Vol.
?
2
CH. VIII.
99
SOUTH AMERICA.
be only earth endowed with the quality of railing a
ferment in the foil with which it is mixed. This
opinion is founded on the prodigious quantities
carried off from thofe iflands, and on the experi-
ment made by digging or boring, by which the
appearance at a certain depth, was the fame as
at the fuperficies; whence it is concluded, that the
earth is naturally endowed with the heating quality.
of dung or Guano. This would feem lefs improba-
ble, did not both its appearance and fmell prove it to be
the excrement in queftion. I was in theſe iſlands when
feveral barks came to load with it; when the infup-
portable ſmell left me no room to doubt of the nature
of their cargo. I do not however pretend to deny,
but that it may be mixed with earth, or that the moſt
fuperficial part of the earth does not contract the like
virtue, fo as to produce the fame effect. But however
it be, this is the manure uſed in the fields fowed with
maize, and with proper waterings is found greatly to
fertilize the foil, a little of it being put cloſe to every
ſtem, and immediately watered. It is alfo of ufe in
fields of other grain, except wheat and barley, and,
confequently, prodigious quantities of it yearly uſed in
agriculture.
BESIDES the orchards, fields, and gardens, with
which this country is fo delightfully variegated,
there are other parts where nature itſelf fpontane-
ouſly furniſhes beautiful profpects for the inhabi-
tants, and plenty of excellent food for their cattle;
particularly the hills of St. Chriftopher and Aman-
caes, whofe perpetual verdure diverfified in fpring
with elegant flowers, feems to invite the neighbouring
inhabitants to a nearer enjoyment of the beauties it
prefents at a diftance to their view. The parts in
the neighbourhood of the city to the diftance of fix
or eight leagues, offer the like entertainment; and
accordingly many families refort thither for the
change of air, and the tranquility of rural amufe-
་་
•
H 2
ments,
100
·BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
1
}
i
ments. The hills called Amancaes, already men-
tioned, have their name from a certain flower grow-
ing on them. It is yellow and of the campanula
form, with four pointed leaves. Its colour is re-
markably brilliant, and in that wholly confifts its va-
lue, being totally void of fragrancy.
BESIDES theſe delightful retreats, the city has a
publick walk in the fuburb of St. Lazaro, called Ala-
meda, confifting of rows of orange and lemon trees;
along the banks of the river is another called the Acho,
to which there is a daily refort of coaches and calafhes.
THE only monuments of antiquity remaining in
the neighbourhood of Lima are the Guacas, or fe-
pulchres of the Indians, and fome walls, which were
built on both fides of the roads, and are frequently
feen all over this country. But three leagues north
eaft of the city, in a valley called Guachipa, are ſtill
ſtanding the walls of a large town. Through igno-
rance I did not vifit them whilft I was at Lima;
the account of them, however, which the ingenious
marquis de Valde Lyrios was pleaſed to give me,
may be equally relied on, as if related from my own
knowledge; eſpecially as he took a very accurate
ſurvey of the whole. He obſerved that the ſtreets
were very narrow, that the walls of the houfes,
which in common with all the buildings of that
time were without roofs, were only of mud, and that
each houſe confifted of three fmall fquare apart-
ments. The doors towards the ftreet, were not fo
high as the general ftature of a man, but the walls
wanted little of three yards. Among all the houſes
which compoſed this large town, fituated at the foot
of a mountain, is one, whofe walls overlook all the
others, and thence it is concluded to have belonged
to the Cafique or prince; though its ruinous condi-
tion render it impoffible to determine abfolutely. The
inhabitants of this valley, where the fruitful fields
are watered from the river Rimac, at no great dif
ftance
CH. VIII.
101
SOUTH AMERICA.
tance from thefe ruins, call them old Caxamarca,
though it cannot now be difcovered whether that
was the real name of the town in the times of Paga-
nifm. For there neither remains any memorial of
fuch tradition, nor any mention of it in the hiſtories
of that kingdom, written by Garcilazo, and Herrera;
fo that all we know is, that the epithet old is now
applied to it by way of diftinction from the preſent
town of Caxamarca.
ONE aftonishing particular in the walls of this
town, and in all others in the neighbouring valleys,
is, that though built on the furface of the earth,
without any foundation, they have withſtood thoſe
violent earthquakes which overthrew the more folid
buildings of Lima and other large towns erected in the
Spaniſh manner; having received no other damage
than what naturally refults from being forfaken, or
what the drivers have done, who make it a refting.
place for their cattle in the road to Lima.
FROM the conftruction of theſe houſes it may be
inferred, that long experience has inftructed the na-
tives, that in parts fo fubject to earthquakes, it was
improper to lay a foundation in order to ftrengthen
the walls; and tradition informs us, that when
the newly conquered Indians faw the Spaniards dig
foundations for lofty buildings, they laughed at
them, telling them they were digging their own fe-
pulchres; intimating that the earthquakes would
bury them under the ruins of their houfes. It is
indeed a melancholy proof of pride and obitinacy,
that after having the prudent example of the In-
dians before their eyes, the total ruin of the city at
four different times in lefs than the ſpace of two hun-
dred years, has not been able entirely to eradicate
the deftructive paffion for airy and elegant buildings,
tho' thefe neceffarily require large and lofty walls,
which muſt have a foundation proportional to the
H 3
mag-
1Q2
Book I,
A VOYAGE TO
magnitude of the ſtructure, and the weight they are
to fupport.
CHAP. IX.
Of the Plenty and different Kinds of Provifions
at LIMA.
T
HE fertility of the foil, the goodneſs of the
climate, and the convenient fituation of Lima,
concur to maintain in it a conftant plenty. The
fruits and herbs have been already mentioned; it re-
mains that we confider the meat and fish with which
it is alſo equally provided.
•
THE bread at Lima is inconteftibly the beft in
all this part of America, both with regard to its
colour and tafte, the goodness of the corn being
improved by the manner of working it; and at the
fame time fo reaſonable, that the inhabitants uſe no
other. It is of three kinds, one called Criollo, the
crumb of which is very light and fpongy; the fe-
cond French bread; and the laft foft bread. It is
kneaded by negroes employed by the bakers, many
of whom are very rich, and their shops always well
provided. Befides their own flaves, the bakers are
alfo obliged to receive any delivered up to them by
their maſters to work as a puniſhment, and for
thefe, befides finding the flaves in provifions, they
pay the mafter the ufual wages in money or in bread.
This puniſhment is the fevereft that can be inflicted on
them, and, indeed, all the hardships and cruelties of
the galleys are leſs than what theſe wretches are obliged
to undergo. They are forced to work the whole day
and part of the night, with little food and lefs fleep;
fo that in a few days the moft vigorous and ftubborn
Дlaye
CH. VIII.
103
SOUTH AMERICA.
flave becomes weak and fubmiffive, and proftrates him-
felf before his mafter, with tears, intreaties and pro-
mifes of amendment on being removed from that
place, the dread of which is doubtlefs of the greateſt
ufe in awing the vaft number of flaves, both within
and without the city.
THEIR mutton is the most common food, and is
very palatable, from the nitrous paftures where the
fheep are fattened. The beef alfo is good; but little
eaten except by the Europeans, fo that two or three
beaſts ſupply the city for a week. Here is alſo plenty
of poultry, partridges, turtle-doves, &c. Pork is
alfo in great abundance, though not equally delicate
with that of Carthagena. The lard is ufed in dref-
fing all kinds of diſhes whether of fleſh or fiſh, oil
being only uſed in fallads and the like. This method
of cookery is faid to have had its rife when the coun-
try afforded no oil, and has been continued to the
preſent time, notwithſtanding it is now produced in
great quantities. Antonia de Rivero, an inhabitant
of Lima in the year 1660, planted the first olive-tree
ever feen in Peru.
FROM the mountains, are often fent by way of
prefent, frozen calves; being killed there, and left
two or three days on the heaths to freeze; after
which they are carried to Lima, where they may be
kept any time required, without the least tendency
to putrefaction.
Or fish there is ſtill a greater variety daily
brought from the neighbouring parts of Chorillos,
Callao, and Ancon, the Indian inhabitants of which
make fiſhing their whole bufinefs. The moſt pala-
table are the Corbinas, and the Pege Reyes, or
king's fifh; but thofe in the greateft plenty, and at
the fame time very palatable, are the anchovies.
The Corbinas, and the king's fifh, infinitely excel
thofe of Spain; the latter is alfo remarkable for its
fize, being generally fix or feven Paris inches in length;
H 4
yet
104.
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
yet even theſe are thought to be furpaffed by thofe
caught in Buenos Ayres river. It is a falt water fiſh,
but very little different from that caught in the rivers.
of Spain. The river of Lima affords a fort of prawns,
two or three inches in length, but thofe fhould rather
be called Cray-fiſh.
THE whole coafts abound with fuch fhoals of an-
chovies, as exceed all comparifon; and befides the
vast quantities caught by fishermen, they are the
chief food of innumerable flights of birds, with
which all thoſe iſlands abound, and commonly called
Guanoes, poffibly from the Guano or dung men-
tioned in the preceding chapter; many of them are
indeed alcatraces, a kind of gull, though all com-
prehended under the generical name of Guanoes. A
little after the appearance of the fun, they rife from
thoſe iſlands in fuch large and thick flights as to-
tally to cover them, and fly towards the fea for an
hour or two, without any vifible decreaſe of their
number. When at fome diſtance from the land they
divide themſelves, and begin their fifhing in a very
entertaining manner. They fly in a circle at a con-
fiderable height above the water, and on feeing a
fish, they dart down with their beak foremoſt and
their wings clofed, with fuch force that the agita-
tion of the water is feen at a diſtance; after which
they riſe again into the air and devour the fiſh.
Sometimes they remain a confiderable time under
water, and rife at fome diſtance from the place
where they fell, doubtlefs becauſe the fifh has endea-
voured to eſcape, thus difputing celerity with them
in their own element. They are continually feen in
the place they frequent, fome watching in gyra-
tions, fome darting down, others rifing with their
prey; while their great numbers render this con-
fufion diverting to the fpectator. When they are
either tired or fatisfied they alight upon the waves,
1
and
CH.IX. SOUTH AMERICA.
105.
and at fun fet, forming themfelves into one body,
withdraw to the islands where they pass the night.
AT the port of Callao it is obferved that all the
birds which reft on thofe iflands to the N. of it, in the
morning univerſally fly towards the S. in queft of prey,
returning in the evening to their place of reft; when
the middle of the flight is over the harbour neither the
beginning nor end can be ſeen, and the whole flock
take up two or three hours in paffing over.
THOUGH ſhell fish are very ſcarce along this coaft,
fome are found near Callao; particularly a kind, the
fhell of which reſembles that of a mufcle, though much
larger. The fish itſelf has more the appearance of an
oyſter, and much the fame tafte.
THE wines at Lima are of different forts, white,
red, and dark-red: and of each fort fome are very
generous and delicious. They are imported from
the coafts of Nafca, Pifco, Lucumba, and Chili;
but the latter produces the beft, and among them
fome Mufcadel. The wine of Nafca is white, and
has the leaft demand of any, being inferior to the
others both in quality and tafte. That from Piſco
has the greatest fale, and from the fame place come
all the brandies either ufed at Lima or exported; no
rum being either made or uſed here.
MOST of the dried fruits are brought from Chili;
and by means of the trade carried on between the
two kingdoms, Lima is fupplied with all forts of
fruits known in Spain, as almonds, walnuts, filberts,
pears, apples, &c. fo that their tables cannot in this
refpect fail of plenty and elegance, having at one
time the fruits of the different feaſons, both of Ame-
rica and Europe. But amidft this plenty, every
thing is very dear, the price being four or five times
as much as at Quito, bread only excepted. Wine,
oil and dried fruits, are fome of the cheapest. The
poorer clafs however, as the negroes and other cafts,
live tolerably well, fifh, which is little efteemed by
the
106
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
Еслияни
the opulent, felling at a low price; the fame may be
faid of mutton and beef, with regard to the inhabi-
tants of this country in general.
SWEETMEATS are alfo here in the fame plenty as
in the other parts of South America, tho' feldom
eaten, except as deferts, and even then very mode-
rately. Inftead of chocolate, Mate, or Paraguay
tea is generally uſed, and prepared twice a day.
Though this has here the defect already obferved, it
is better prepared than in any other part.
in
V
TH
CHAP. X.
Trade and Commerce of LIMA.
HE city of Lima could not have attained to
fuch fplendor, if, befides being the capital of
Peru, it had not been alfo the general ftaple of the
kingdom. But as it is the refidence of the govern-
ment and chief tribunals, fo it is alſo the common
factory for commerce of every kind, and the center
of the products and manufactures of the other pro-
vinces, together with thofe of Europe, brought over
in the galleons or regifter fhips; and from hence
they are diftributed through the vaft extent of theſe
kingdoms, whofe wants are fupplied from Lima, as
their common mother. At the head of this commerce
is the tribunal del Confulado, which appoints com-
miffaries to refide in the other cities of its dependen-
cies, extending through all Peru.
ALL the wealth of the fouthern provinces, is
brought to Lima, where it is embarqued on board
the fleet, which, at the time of the galleons fails
from Callao, to Panama. The proprietors of the
treaſure, commit it to the merchants of Lima, who
traffic at the fair with this and their own ſtock.
The fame fleet returns to the harbour of Paita,
where
9.
1
Cu. VI.
107
SOUTH AMERICA.
where the European merchandizes of value purchaſed
at Porto Bello fair are landed, in order to avoid the
delay of failing to Callao, and fent by land to Lima,
on droves of mules; but thofe of leſs value are carried
thither by the fame fhips.
ON the arrival of theſe commodities at Lima,
the merchants remit to their correfpondents fuch
parts as they had a commiffion to purchaſe, referving
the reft in ware-houfes to difpofe of on their own ac-
count to traders, who at this time refort to Lima;
or fend them to their factors in the inland provin-
ces, who remit the returns in money or bills of
exchange to their principals at Lima. Theſe con-
fignments are repeated till they have difpofed of
their whole ftock. Thus the cargo of a flotilla lafts
a confiderable time, there being no immediate vent
for the whole.
THE produce of the fales in the inland parts of
the kingdom, is fent to Lima in bars of filver, and
Pignast, and is coined at the mint in this city.
Thus the traders have not only a great profit in the
fale of their goods, but alfo in the returns of their
filver, which they take at a lower rate than is al-
lowed them for it. All theſe ſales may therefore be
confidered as an exchange of one commodity for
another; for he who fells the goods agrees both
with regard to their price, and the rate in which he
is to take the filver bars, or pignas; and thus two
fpecies of trade are tranfacted at the fame time, one
a fale of goods, and the other of filver.
THE remittances fent to Lima during the inter-
val between the Flotillas, are laid out in manufac-
tures of the country, great quantities of which come
from the province of Quito; and this trade is car-
ried on in all refpects like the former; for the con-
fumption of them being equal or rather larger;
+ Pignas are porous and light maffes of filver, being an amal-
gama of mercury and duft taken out of the mines.
they
V
108
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
.....
گیا
they are not lefs neceffary here than in Europe, being
worn by all the lower clafs of people, who cannot
afford the price of European ftuffs; and the generality
of traders who come to Lima purchaſe ftuffs of
both kinds, that they may be provided with affort-
ments for cuſtomers of all ranks.
BESIDES this commerce, which is the moft con-
fiderable, and tranfacted wholly by means of this
city, Lima has alſo its particular trade with the king-
doms both of north and fouth America. The moſt
confiderable commodity received from the former is
fnuff, which is brought from the Havannah to
Mexico, and after being there improved is forward-
ed to Lima, and from thence fent into the other pro-
vinces. This trade is carried on nearly in the fame
manner as that of Panama; but thofe who deal in
this commodity, never trouble themfelves with any
other except perfumes, as ambergrife, mufk, &c.
and porcelain ware. Some of thefe traders are fet-
tled at Lima, others refide there occafionally, but
are in general factors to the merchants at Mexico.
Lima alfo receives from the ports of new Spain,
Naphtha, tar, iron, and fome indigo for dying.
THE kingdom of Terra Firma fends to Lima leaf-
tobacco, and pearls, which here meet with a good
market; for befides the great numbers worn by the
ladies, no mulatto woman is without fome ornament
or other made of them. During a free affiento of ne-
groes, this commerce is always carried on by way of
Panama, and to a confiderable amount.
THE ladies, and indeed women of all ranks, have a
very antient cuſtom, namely, the carrying in their
mouths a Limpion, or cleanfer, of tobacco. The firſt
intention of this was to keep the teeth clean, as the
name itſelf intimates. Thefe Limpions are ſmall rolls
of tobacco, four inches in length, and nine lines in
diameter, and tied with a thread, which they untwiſt
as the Limpion waftes. One end of they this put
into
CH. X.
109
SOUTH AMERICA.
their mouth, and after chewing it for fome time, rub
the teeth with it, and thus keep them always clean
and white. The lower claſs of people, who generally
pervert the beſt things, carry this cuftom to fuch ex-
cefs, as to keep continually in their mouths a roll of
tobacco, an inch and a half in diameter; affecting to
diſtinguiſh themſelves by the largenefs of their Lim-
pions, tho' it abfolutely disfigures them. This cuftom,
together with that of fmoaking, which is equally
common among the men, occafions a great de-
mand for leaf tobacco. The Limpions are made
of Guayaquil tobacco mixed with fome of that
brought from the Havannah to Panama; but that
uſed in ſmoaking comes from Santa Mayobamba,
Jaen de Bracamaros, Llulla, and Chillaos, where it
grows in the greateft plenty, and is beft adapted to
that purpoſe.
ALL the timber ufed in building houſes, refitting
fhips, or building fmall barks at Callao, is brought
from Guayaquil, together with the Cacao; but the
confumption of the latter is here very fmall, the
Paraguay tea being more generally ufed. The tim-
ber trade is carried on by the mafters of fhips, who
bring it hither on their own account, as we have
already obferved, in defcribing Guayaquil, and depo-
fiting it in ftore-houſes at Callao, fell it as opportu-
nity offers.
:
THE coafts of Nafca and Pifco, fend to Lima,
wine, brandy, raifins, olives and oil and the king-
dom of Chili, wheat, flour, lard, leather, cordage,
wines, dried fruits, and fome gold. Befides theſe
all forts of goods are alſo laid up at Callao, in ſtore-
houfes built for that purpoſe; fome on account of
the owners who remit them, others for maſters of
fhips who purchaſe them on the fpot where they
grow, or are made. Every Monday during the
whole year there is a fair at Callao, whither the
proprietors and dealers refort from all parts; and
the
Fro
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
the goods are carried according to the buyers direc-
tion on droves of mules kept there for that purpoſe
by the masters of the warehouſes, and whofe profit
wholly confifts in the hire of theſe beafts.
THE provifions brought to Lima are not only
fufficient to fupply its numerous inhabitants, but
great quantities of all kinds are fent to Quito, and
its jurifdiction, to Valles and Pánama. Copper and
tin in bars are brought from Coquimbo; from the
mountains de Caxamarca, and Chacapoyas, canvas
made of cotton for fails and other ftuffs of that
kind, and alſo of Pita: Cordovan leather, and foap
are made all over Valles. From the fouthern pro-
vinces, as Plata, Oruro, Potofi, and Cuſco, is fent
Vicuna wool for making hats, and ſome ſtuffs of a
peculiar fineness. Laftly, from Paraguay the her
called by that name is fent, of which there is an
amazing confumption, it being fent from Lima a-
mong the other provinces, as far as Quito. There
is no province in Peru, which does not remit
to Lima, its products and manufactures; and ſup-
plies itſelf from hence with the neceffary commodities.
Thus Lima is the emporium to which people refort
from all parts; and trade being always in a conftant
circulation, befides the continual refort of ftrangers,
the families of rank are enabled to fupport the ex-
pences of that fplendor I have already mentioned; for
without fuch continual affiftance they must either
contract their expences, or fall victims to their
oftentation.
It would naturally be imagined that by a com-
merce fo extenfive and important, many vaft for-
tunes must be acquired, efpecially as every branch of
it is attended with great profits; but if there are fome
who actually do acquire great riches, neither their
number nor opulence are equal to what might be ex-
pected; for by a narrow infpection there will hardly
be found above ten or fifteen houfes of trade, exclu
five
CH. X.
III
SOUTH AMERICA.
five of immoveables as lands and offices, whoſe ſtock
in money and goods amounts to five or fix hundred
thouſand crowns; and to one that exceeds this fum,
there are more that fall fhort of it. Many poſſeſs
poffefs
from one to three hundred thouſand crowns, and
theſe are indeed the perfons who compofe the main
body of trade. Befides theſe there are great num-
bers of inferior traders, whofe capitals do not ex-
ceed fifty or a hundred thoufand crowns. The
paucity of immenfe fortunes amidst fuch advanta-
ges is doubtlefs owing to the enormous expences;
whence, though their gains are great, they can
hardly fupport their credit; fo that after paying the
fortunes of their daughters, and the eſtabliſhing
their fons, the wealth of moft families terminates
with the life of him who raifed it, being divided
into as many fmall ftocks as he had dependents;
unleſs ſome either by induſtry or good fortune, im-
prove the portion they obtained by inheritance.
THE inhabitants of Lima have a natural difpo-
fition and aptitude for commerce, and the city may
be confidered as an academy to which great num-
bers repair to perfect themſelves in the various arts
of trade. They both penetrate into the fineffes of
the feller; and artfully draw the purchafer into
their views. They are bleffed with a remarkable
talent of perfuafion, at the fame time that they are
incapable of being perfuaded, as well as of artfully
eluding objections. They affect to flight what they
are moſt defirous of purchafing, and by that means
often make very advantageous bargains, which none
can obtain from them. But after all theſe precau-
tions and fineffes in buying and felling, for which
they are ſo diſtinguiſhed, none are more punctual and
honourable in performing their contracts.
BESIDES the thops where ftuffs and goods of that
kind are fold; there are others for fnuff, and in theſe
may be purchaſed the wrought plate, which is bought
in
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK I.
کره
1
in the cities near the mines, where it is made.
THE Wholeſale traders, who have large warehouſes,
are not above keeping fhops where they fell by retail,
which is reckoned no difgrace; and thus they gain
that profit which they must otherwiſe allow to others.
And from this indulgence granted to every branch of
commerce, it flouriſhes very greatly. There are, how-
ever, many families, who, as I have already obferved,
fupport a proper fplendor entirely by the revenue of
their eftates, without joining in the cares and hurry
of commerce. But a greater number with eftates,
add the advantages of commerce, in order to pre-
ſerve them. Thefe, however, deal only at the fairs
of the galleons, and in other large branches of com-
merce; and find the benefit of having abandoned
thoſe fcruples brought by their anceſtors from Spain,
namely, that trade would tarnish the luftre of their
nobility.
f
CHAP. XI.
Extent of the jurifdiction of the Vice-roy of
PERU: together with the audiences and diocef-
fes of that kingdom.
THE
HE foregoing accounts naturally lead to the
extent of the audience of Lima, and the ju-
rifdiction of the vice roy of Peru. But fuch a par-
ticular deſcription as I have already given † of Quito,
requiring a perfonal knowledge of all its provinces
and jurifdictions, and alfo á particular work, from
the extenſiveneſs of the fubject, I fhall confine myſelf
to fome principal accounts, but which will convey an
adequate idea of the vaſt dominions of this country.
In order to this I have confulted feveral perfons, fome
2
† Vol. I.
of
SOUTH AMERICA.
113
of which have been veſted with high employments
here, and others, whofe commendable curiofity, as
natives of this country, had prompted them to ac-
quire an exact knowledge of it. This was a refource
of abfolute neceffity; no opportuuity having offered
of vifiting the inland parts of thefe countries; and
the accounts we received of them at Lima, were not
to be depended upon, with that confidence neceffary
to their being inferted here; for confidering the vaſt
diftance between the capital and fome provinces, it
is no wonder they are but little known at Lima. The
reader will therefore indulge me in giving a fuperfi-
cial account of fome; for according to the method
in which I began to write the hiftory, we fhall in-
fert fuch particulars only as are authentic; it being
undoubtedly more advantageous to fay a little with
truth, than to engage in prolix and uncertain parti
culars.
In order the better to defcribe the countries go-
verned by the vice-roy of Peru, without departing
from the plan hitherto obferved, I fhall divide the
whole jurifdiction of its government, into thofe audi-
ences of which it confifts; thefe into the dioceffes
they contain; and the dioceffes into juriſdictions under
á Corregidor.
THE vice royalty of Peru in fouth America, ex-
tends over thofe vaft countries, included in the ju
rifdictions of the audiences of Lima, Los Charcas;
and Chili; and in thefe are comprehended the go-
vernments of Santa Cruz de la Sierra; Paraguay,
Tucuman, and Buenos Ayres. Though theſe three
provinces and the kingdom of Chili have particu-
lar governors invefted with all the authority agree-
able to fuch a character; and as fuch are abfolute in
political, civil, and military affairs, yet, in fome
cafes, are fubordinate to the vice-roy; for instance,
on the death of any inferior governor, the vacancy
is fupplied by him. Before the erection of the vice-
VOL. II.
royalty
I
114
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
•
royalty of the new kingdom of Granada in 1739,
that of Peru, as we have already obferved, extend-
ed to the countries of the two audiences of Terra
Firma and Quito; but thofe being then feparated
from it, the bounds of it on the north were the ju-
rifdiction of Piura, which extends to thoſe of Guaya-
quil and Loxa, and that of Chacapayas, which
joins to the government of Jaen de Bracamoros.
Thus the vice-royalty of Peru begins at the bay of
Guayaquil, at the coaft of Tumbez, in 3° 25′ fouth
latitude, and reaches to the land of Magellan in 50°
confequently it extends 1012 fea leagues. Eaftward
it partly terminates on Brazil, being bounded by the
celebrated line, or meridian of demarkation, or that
which feparates the dominions of Spain and Portugal,
and on the coaft of the north fea: and on the W. is
terminated by the fouth-fea.
ས-་་་
THE audience of Lima erected in the year 1542,
though it was the year 1544 before any feffion was
held in that city, contains within its jurifdiction one
arch-bishoprick, and four biſhopricks, viz.
The archbishoprick of Lima, and the bishopricks
of Truxillo, Guamanga, Cufco, and Arequipa.
The arch-bishoprick of Lima, to which the pre-
cedence in every refpect belongs, fhall be the fub-
ject of this chapter. It contains fourteen jurifdictions,
which I fhall treat of in the order of their fituation,
beginning with thofe neareſt the capital, and con-
cluding with thoſe which are moſt remote: the fame
method fhall alſo be obſerved in the other dioceffes.
I. The Curcado or circuit of Lima.
II. Chancay.
III. Santa.
IV. Canta.
V. Canete.
IX. Yauyos.
X. Caxatambo.
XI. Sarma.
XII. Jouxa.
:
VI. Ica, Pifco, and Nafca. XIII. Conchucos.
VII. Guarachia.
VIII. Guanuco.
XIV. Guyalas.
XV. Guamalies.
I. II.
CH. XI
115
SOUTH AMERICA.
}
I. II III. The juriſdiction of Lima, Chancay, and
Santa have been already defcribed in Chap. III.
IV. THE jurifdiction of Canta begins at the dif
tance of five leagues N. N. E. of Lima, where it
terminates on the Circado of that city. It extends
above thirty leagues, and the greater part of them
taken up by the firft branch of the Cordillera of the
Andes; fo that the temperature of the air is diffe-
rent in different parts of the country; that part
which lies low, or among the valleys being hot,
thoſe on the ſkirts of the mountains, which are alfo
intermixed with fome plains, temperate; and thoſe
in the upper parts of the mountains cold. This dif
ference of air is of great advantage both to the
fruits of the earth and paftures; for by appropriat-
ing every ſpecies to its proper degree of heat, the
produce is large, and exceeding good. Among all
the fruits the Papa is particularly diftinguiſhed,
and the roots carried to Lima where they meet with
a good market. The vaft fields of Bombon, part
of which belongs to this jurifdiction, are by their
high fituation, always cold, yet they afford paſture
for innumerable flocks of fheep. Thefe extenſive
tracts of land are divided into Haciendas, or eftates
belonging to noble families of Lima. At Guaman-
tanga, one of the towns in this jurifdiction is a mi-
raculous crucifix, devoutly worshipped; the inhabi-
tants of Lima, and the neighbouring country, go
thither in pilgrimage at Whitfuntide to affift at a fefti-
val, inſtituted particularly in honour of it.
•
V. THE town of Canete is the capital of the ju-
rifdiction of its name. Its jurifdiction begins at the
diſtance of fix leagues fouth from Lima, and ex-
tends along the coaft in the fame rhumb above
thirty leagues. The temperature of the air in this
jurifdiction is the fame with that in the valleys of
Lima; and the country being watered by a large
river, and other leffer ftreams, produced vast quan-
I 2
#
tities
1
い
​116
ВOOK I
A VOYAGE TO
}
tities of wheat and maize. Great part of the lands
are planted with canes, from whence they extract
an excellent fugar. Theſe profitable tracts of land
belong alfo to noble families. In the neighbourhood
of Chilca, fituated about ten leagues from Lima, is
found falt petre of which gunpowder is made at that
city. Befides thefe advantages it has a good fiſhery,
which affords à comfortable fubfiftence to the Indian
inhabitants of the towns, particularly thofe fituated.
near the ſea coaft; together with plenty of fruits,
pulfe, and poultry, the breeding of which is another
occupation of the Indians. Whence a large trade is
carried on between this jurifdiction and Lima.
VI. Ica, Pifco, and Nafcà are three towns which
denominate this jurifdiction; one part of it runs
along the coaft fouthward, and its territories ex-
tend above 60 leagues; but are intermixed with
fome deferts, and the country being fandy, thofe
parts which are beyond the reach of the trenches
cut from the rivers are generally barren. I ſay
generally, becaufe there are fome tracts, which,
without the benefit of an artificial watering, are
planted with vines, and produce excellent grapes,
the roots being fupplied with moisture from the in-
ternal humidity of the earth. Great quantities of
wines are made from them, and chiefly exported to
Callao, and from thence to Guayaquil and Panama;
alfo to Guamanga, and other inland provinces: they
alfo extract from thefe wines great quantities of
brandy. Some parts of this jurifdiction are planted.
with olive-trees, which produce excellent fruit either
for eating, or oil. The fields, which are watered
by the trenches, yield an uncommon plenty of wheat,
maize, and fruits. The jurifdiction of Ica is re-
markable for fpacious woods' of Algarrobales or
carob-trees, with the fruit of which the inhabitants
feed vaft numbers of affes, for the ufes of agricul-
ture. The Indians who live near the fea apply them-
felves
X
;
Ch. XI.
SOUTH AMERICA.
117
felves to fishing, and after falting carry it to the
towas among the mountains, where they never fail
of a good market.
VII. THE jurifdiction of Guarachiri contains the
firſt chain and part of the fecond of the mountains,
extending itſelf along theſe chains above forty leagues.
This province begins about fix leagues eaft of Lima.
From the difpofition of its parts, thofe places only
which lie in the valleys and in the breaches of the
mountains are inhabited; and theſe are very fertile,
producing great quantities of fruit, wheat, barley,
maize, and other grain. In its mountains are feveral
filver mines, though but few of them are wrought,
being none of the richeft.
•
VIII. GUANUCO is a city and the capital of its ju-
rifdiction, which begins forty leagues north-eaft of
Lima. This city was formerly one of the principal
in thefe kingdoms, and the fettlement of fome of
the first conquerors; but at preſent in ſo ruinous a
condition, that the principal houfes where thefe great
men lived remain as it were only monuments of its
former opulence. The other parts of it can hardly
be compared to an Indian town.
The temperature
of the air in the greatest part of its territories is
very pure and mild; and the foil fruitful. Several
kinds of fweetmeats and jellies are made here, and
fold to other provinces.
IX. THE jurifdiction of Yauyos, begins twenty
leagues fouth-eaſt from Lima, and takes up part of
the firft and ſecond chain of the Cordilleras; confe-
quently the temperature of the air is different in
different parts. The greateft length of this jurif
diction is about thirty leagues, and abounds in fruits,
wheat, barley, maiz, &c. whilst other parts are
continually cloathed with verdure, and feed numerous
herds and flocks for the markets of Lima; and thefe
are the moſt confiderable articles of its commerce.
X. The jurifdiction of Caxatambo, which begins
•
I 3
35
118
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
کیلئے
35 leagues north of Lima, extends about 20 leagues
and partly among the mountains, whence the tempe-
rature of the air is various; but the whole territory is
very fertile in grain. It has alſo fome filver mines,
which are worked, and the Indians have manufactures
of bays, which make part of the trade of this jurifdiction.
- XI. The jurifdiction of Tarma is one of the largeſt
in this archbishoprick. It begins forty leagues north-
eaft from Lima, and terminates eastward on a tract of
land inhabited by wild Indians, called Maran-cochas,
who often make inroads into the territories of this ju-
rifdiction. The difference of the air in its feveral
parts, render it capable of producing all kinds of grain
and fruits, which the inhabitants are not wanting to
improve. The temperate parts are fown with wheat,
barley, maize, and other grain; while the colder parts
afford paſture to infinite numbers of cattle of all kinds.
This province is alfo rich in filver mines; and as
many of them are worked, they ſpread affluence all
over the country. Befides theſe important fources of
commerce, and that of the cattle, the making of bays
and other coarſe ſtuffs, profitably employ great numbers
of Indians in moſt of its towns.
XII. The jurifdiction of Jáuxa borders on the
fouthern extremity of the former, and begins about
forty leagues east of Lima, and extends forty more
along the ſpacious valleys and plains between the two
Cordilleras of the Andes. In the middle of it runs a
large river, called alfo Jauxa, the fource of which is
in the lake of Chincay-Cocha, in the province of
Tarma. It is alfo one of the branches of the river of
the Amazons. The whole jurifdiction of this province
is divided into two parts by the river, and in both are
feveral handfome towns, well inhabited by Spaniards,
Meftizos, and Indians. The foil produces plenty of
wheat and other grain, together with a great variety
of fruits. It has alfo a confiderable fhare of trade, be-
ing
the great road to the provinces of Cuſco, Paz,
2
Plata,
}
}
CH. XI.
119
SOUTH AMERICA.
Plata, and others to the fouthward, here called Tiera
de Ariba, or the upper country. Like the former it
borders eastward on the wild Indians of the mountains;
but among which the order of St. Francis has efta-
bliſhed ſeveral miffions, the firſt being in the town of
Ocopa. Within its dependances are feveral filver
mines, fome of which being worked, greatly increaſe
the riches of this province.
XIII. The jurifdiction of Conchucos begins forty
leagues N. N. F. of Lima, and extends along the
center of the Cordillera; fo that its air is different
according to the height of the fituation of its ſeveral
parts, the mildeſt of which produce all kinds of grain
and fruits, and the others, where the effects of the cold
checks this fertility, afford pafture for cattle of all kinds.
In this jurifdiction are great number of looms; the
principal occupation of the Indians being feveral kinds
of woollen manufactures, and thefe conftitute the great-
eft part of its commerce with other provinces.
XIV. THE province of Guaylas, like the former, ex-
tends along the center of the Cordillera, beginning.
fifty leagues from Lima, and in the fame direction as
the other; this jurifdiction is large, and has different
temperatures of air. The low parts produce grain
and fruits, the upper abound in cattle and fheep, which
form the greateſt branch of their trade.
XV. The laft is that of Guamalies, which, like the
former, is fituated in the center of the Cordillera, con-
fequently its air very different. This jurifdiction begins
eighty leagues N. E. of Lima, and its fituation being
rather cold than temperate, few places are fertile in
its whole extent, which is above forty leagues. The
Indian inhabitants of the towns apply themſelves to
weaving, and make a great variety of bays, ferges,
and other ſtuffs, with which they carry on a very con-
fiderable trade with the other provinces, deftitute of
fuch manufactures.
THE preceding provinces, together with the follow-
1 4
ing
720
A VOYAGE TO BOOK I.
ing in the audience of Lima, as in thoſe belonging to
that of Charcas, are full of towns, villages and ham-
lets, inhabited by Spaniards, Meftizos, and Indians;
but with fome difference, the number of Spaniards be-
ing greater in fome, and in others that of the Indians.
Many of them are indeed folely inhabited by the latter.
The diſtance from the capital of the province, efpeci-
ally to the towns fituated on its frontiers, being fo
great, as to render it impoffible for the corregidor to
diſcharge his office every where with the neceffary
punctuality and attention, the province is divided into
feveral diftricts, confifting of three or four towns,
more or lefs, according to their largenefs and diftance;
and over thefe is placed a delegate.
EVERY fettlement of any confequence maintains a
prieft; and fo commendable is their proviſion in this re-
Ipect, that fometimes two, three, or more ſmall places
join to fupport one, either alone or with a curate;
fo that fome ecclefiaftics have diftant fettlements un-
der their care. Theſe incumbents are either feculars
or regulars, according to the right acquired by each
of thefe claffes, as having been employed in the con-
verfion of the Indians immediately after the Con-
queſt.
CHAP. XII.
Of the Provinces in the Dioceffes of TRUXILLO,
GUAMANGA, Cusco, and AREQUIpa.
No
ORTH of the archiepifcopal diocefs of Lima lies
the bishopric of Truxillo, and with it termi-
nates on that fide both the jurifdiction of that audi-
ence, and the vice-royalty of Peru; but the whole
extent of this diocefs is not under the jurifdictions of
this audience, nor of that of the vice-roy; for it alfo
includes
Ch.XI. SOUTH AMERICA.
121
includes the government of Jaen de Bracamoros, which,
as we have already obferved (Vol. I.) belongs to the
province and audience of Quito. We hall therefore
exclude it, and only give an account of the feven ju-
rifdictons in the diocefe of Truxillo belonging to the
vice-royalty of Peru, and the audience of Lima.
Jurifdictions in the diocefs of Truxillo.
II. Sana.
III. Piura.
IV. Caxamarca.
1. TRUXILLO.
V. Chachapayas.
VI. Llulia, and Chilloas.
VII. Pataz, or Coxamarquilla.
I. II. III. A fufficient account having already been
given (Chap. I. II.) of the jurifdictions of Truxillo,
Sana, and Piura, it only remains to fpeak of the other
four.
IV. Caxamarca lies to the eastward of Truxillo,
and its jurifdiction extends along a vaft interval betwixt
the two Cordilleras of the Andes. It enjoys a fertility
of all kinds of corn, fruits, and efculent vegetables;
alfo cattle, fheep, and efpecially hogs, of which they
fell vaft numbers to the farmers in the valleys, who
after fattening them with maize, fend them to the
markets in the great towns; particularly the farmers
of the valley of Chincay and others, who drive a con-
fiderable trade in thefe creatures at Lima, Truxillo,
and other flouriſhing places. The Indians throughout
this jurifdiction weave cotton for fhip's fails, bed-cur-
tains, quilts, and other ufes, which are fent into the
other provinces. Here are alfo fome filver mines, but
of little confequence.
V. ON the fame fide, but more towards the eaft,
lies the jurifdiction of Chachapoyas. Its temperature is
hot, being without the Cordilleras, and to the eastward
its territories have a low fituation. It is of great extent,
but very thinly inhabited; and the products of the
earth only fuch as naturally flourish in fuch a climate.
The Indians here are very ingenious in making cot-
tons, particularly tapeſtry, which for the livelinefs of
the
V
122
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
the colours, and delicacy of the work, make an ele-
gant appearance: thefe, together with the fail-cloth,
bring great profits to this country, being highly valued
in the other provinces.
VI. SOUTH of Chachapayas, and alſo on the eaftfide
of the cordillera of the Andes, lies the jurifdiction of
Llulla and Chiloas, which is low, warm and moift,
and covered with woods, fo that great parts of it are
uninhabited. It borders on the river of Moyabamba,
which beginning its courfe from thefe fouthern pro-
vinces of Peru, forms the river of the Amazones, as
we have already obſerved.* The principal commodity
of this country is tobacco, which, with a particular
kind of almonds called andes, and a few other fruits
natural to its climate, form the commerce carried on
by this province with the others.
VII. THE laft jurifdiction of this diocefs is that of
Pataz, or Caxamarquilla. From its different fituations
it has a variety of products: but is particularly remark:
able for gold mines; its chief commerce confifting in
exchanging that metal for current money, efpecially fil-
ver coin, which is the more efteemed here for its fcar-
city.
GUAMANGA the fecond diocefs.
name.
THE city of Guamanga, the capital of this diocefs,
was founded in the year 1539, by Don Francifco
Pizarro, on the fite of an Indian village of the fame
The Spaniards added the name of San Juan
del la Victoria, in memory of the precipitate retreat of
Manco the Ynca, from Pizarro, who offered him
battle. This city was founded for the conveniency of
the trade carried on between Lima and Cuſco; for du-
ring this long diſtance, there was at that time no
town, whence the travellers frequently fuffered by the
incurfions of Manco's army. This gave occafion to
building the city on the ſpot where the Indian village
ftood, tho' extreamly inconvenient with regard to
* Vol. I.
pro-
i
CH. XII.
SOUTH AMERICA. 123
proviſions, as lying contiguous to the great chain of
the Andes; but the war being happily terminated by
the entire defeat of Manco's party, the city was re-
moved to its prefent fituation. Its jurifdiction, regu-
lated at the time of its foundation, began at the
frontiers of Joxa, and reached to the bridge of Valcas;
but at prefent it is bounded by the provinces which
furround it, and contains the town of Anco, about
three leagues from it: The city is fituated on the de-
clivities of fome mountains not remarkable for their
height, which extending fouthward incloſe a ſpacious
plain to the eastward of the town, watered by a
ſmall ſtream defcending from the neighbouring moun-
tains; but the ground on which the city is built, being
higher than the breach thro' which the river flows,
the inhabitants were obliged to provide themſelves
with fmall fountains. Among the number of inhabi
tants, Guamanga boafts at leaſt of twenty noble fami-
lies, who live in the center of the town, in fpacious
houfes of a confiderable height, built partly of ftone,
and covered with tiles. Befides the largenefs of the
apartment, they have extenſive gardens and orchards,
tho' it is no fmall difficulty to keep theſe in order, on
account of the fcarcity of 'water. The large Indian
fuburbs round the city, add greatly to its extent, and
the houſes tho' low, are chiefly of ſtone, and roofed,
which confiderably augments the appearance of the city.
This is indeed the general manner of building in the
towns of this kingdom, remote from the coaft.
-
THE cathedral is very ſplendid, and its chapter, be-
fides the biſhop, confifts of a dean, archdeacon,
chanter, two canons by compofition, a penitentiary,
and two prebendaries. It has a feminary for the fer-
vice of the church, under the title of St. Chriftopher.
The church of this feminary is that belonging to the
parish of the Spaniards, and another dedicated to St.
Ann, the parish church of the Indians. Befides theſe
are the chapels of Carmenca, Belen, St. Sebaſtian,
and
124
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
and St. John the Baptift depending on it. The parish
of Magdalena inhabited by Indians, is under the care of
the Dominicans, and the incumbent has the title of
prieft. The city has alfo an univerfity, with profeffors
of philofophy, divinity and law, and equal privileges
with that of Lima, they being both royal foundations.
The corporation is compofed of the principal nobility of
the city, at the head of which is the corregidor, and
out of this body the Alcaldes are chofen, to fuperin-
tend the civil and political government.
WITHIN the walls of this city are the convents of
St. Dominic, St. Francis, the fathers of Mercy, St..
Auguftine, St. Juan de Dios, a college of Jefuits, a
hofpital of St. Francis de Paula. The nunneries are of
the orders of St. Clare, and the Carmelites; and a
religious fifterhood.
The jurifdictions in the diocefs of Guamanga, are
I. Guamanga.
II. Guanta.
III. Vilcas Guaman.
IV. Andoguaylas.
V. Guanca Belcia.
VI. Angaraes.
VII. Caftio Vineyna.
VIII. Parina-Cocha.
IX. Lucanas.
I. THE jurifdiction of Guamanga, enjoys in every
part, fo good a temperature, that it abounds in va-
riety of grain, fruit and cattle, and is very populous.
One part of its commerce confift in Bend leather for
foles of fhoes, which are cut out here. Conſerves and
fweatmeats are here made in great quantity.
II. THE jurifdiction of Guanta which lies N. N. W.
of Guamanga, begins a little above four leagues from
that city; and is in length about thirty leagues. It is
very happy in the temperature of the climate, and
fertility of the earth; but its filver mines, which were
formerly very rich, are now greatly exhauſted. In an
inland formed by the river Jauxa, called in that coun-
try Tayacaxa, grows in remakable plenty the Caca al-
ready mentioned in Vol. I. This herb, and the lead
produced from the mines of that metal in this coun-
try,
1
CH. XII.
125
SOUTH AMERICA:
try, are the branches of its commerce. It fupplies
the city of Guamanga with great part of its corn and
fruits.
III. S. E. of Guamanga, and between fix and feven
leagues from that city is Vilcas Guaman, which ex-
tends above 30 leagues. The greatest part of this
country, lying in a temperate air, befides a fufficiency
of corn, and fruits, and efculent vegetables, has very
fine paſtures, in which are bred vaſt quantities of cat-
tle of all kinds. The Indians in the towns of this ju-
riſdiction apply themſelves to weaving bays, corded
ftuffs, and other branches of the woollen manufactory,
which are carried to Cufco, and other provinces; but
this trade is rendered very laborious by the great di-
ftance of the feveral places. Here is ftill remaining a
fort built by the old Indians, and reſembles that al-
ready deſcribed, Vol. I. near the town of Cannar; at
the town of Vilcas Guaman was another, very famous,
but taken down in order to erect a church with the
ftones.
IV. EAST a little inclining to the S. of Guamanga
is Andaguaylas, extending eastward along an interme-
diate ſpace between two branches of the Cordillera,
above twenty miles, having the advantage of being
watered by feveral ſmall rivers. Its climate is partly
hot, and partly temperate, fo that the foil being wa-
tered by theſe ftreams, produces all kinds of fruits
and grain in great plenty, efpecially maize, wheat
and fugar canes. This province is one of the moſt
populous in all thoſe parts; in it the gentry of Gua-
manga have large fugar plantations.
V. THE government of Guanca Belica begins
thirty leagues north of Guamanga. The town
which gives name to this government, was founded
on account of the famous rich quickfilver mine,
and to the working of it, the inhabitants owe their
whole ſubſiſtance; the coldness of the air checking
the growth of all kinds of grains and fruits, fo
that
126
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
}
that they are obliged to purchaſe them from their
neighbours. This town is noted for a water where
fuch large petrefications are formed, that the inha-
bitants ufe them in building houfes, and other
works. The quickfilver mines wrought here, fup-
ply with that neceffary mineral, all the filver mines
of Peru; and notwithstanding the prodigious quan-
tities already extracted, no diminution is perceived.
Some attribute the diſcovery of thefe mines to a
Portugueſe, called Enrique Garces in the year 1566,
who accidentally met an Indian with fome pieces of
cinnaber, called by the Indians Llimpi, and uſed in
painting their faces. But others, among whom are
Acofta, Laett, and Efcalona, fay that the mines of
Guanca Belica, were diſcovered by a Navincopa, or
Indian, and fervant to Amador Cabrera; and that
before the year 1564, Pedro Contreras and Henrique
Garces had difcovered another mine of the fame
kind at Patas. But however it be, the mines of
Guanca Belica are the only ones now worked; and
the uſe of quickfilver for aggregating the particles
of filver began in the year 1571, under the direc-
tion of Petro Fernandes Velafco. The mines of
Guanca Belica immediately on the diſcovery were
claimed in the king's name, and alternately govern-
ed by one of the members of the audienza of Lima,
with the title of fuperintendant, whofe office expired
at the end of five years, till in the year 1735, when
Philip V. appointed a particular governor of theſe
mines, with the fame title of fuperintendant, but
thoroughly acquainted with the nature of extracting
this mineral, having been employed in thofe of the
fame nature in Spain; and by his oeconomy the mines
are worked with lefs charge, and will not be fo foon
exhauſted. Part of the quickfilver found here, is
fold on the ſpot to miners, and the remainder fent
to all the royal offices of the kingdom of Peru, for
the
¡
}
CH. XII.
127
SOUTH AMERICA.
the more commodious fupply of thoſe whofe mines
are at a great diſtance.
VI. THE jurifdiction of Angaraes, depends on
the government of Guanca Belica, and begins about
twenty leagues W. N. W. of the city of Guaman-
ga. Its territories reach above twenty leagues; its
air is temperate, and it abounds in wheat, maize,
and other grains and fruits, and alfo breeds vaſt
droves of cattle of all kinds.
VII, WEST of the city of Guamanga, is the ju-
riſdiction of Caftro Virreyna. In fome parts this
province extends above thirty leagues, and has fuch
a variety of temperatures, that it produces every
kind of grain and fruits. The heaths which are the
coldeſt parts, are frequented by a kind of ſheep cal-
led Vicunna, whofe wool is the moſt confiderable
article of its commerce. This animal was alfo com-
mon in the provinces of Jauxa, Guanuco, and Chu-
quiabo, till the conqueft of thofe countries, when
every one hunted them at pleaſure for the fake of
their wool, without reftraint from the government,
they became, as it were, exterminated in thoſe parts;
now they are only to be found in the fummits of
mountains or the coldest heaths, where they are not
caught without great difficulty.
VIII. ABOUT twenty leagues fouth of the city
of Guamanga, is the jurifdiction of Parina-Cocha,
which reaches about twenty five leagues; and lies
principally in fo temperate an air, that the foil, be-
fides excellent paftures, abounds in grain and fruits.
It has alſo ſeveral mines both of filver and gold,
which now produce more confiderably than hereto-
fore. Thefe valuable metals make the chief branch
of its active commerce; its paffive being the fame
as in the following jurifdiction.
IX. THE jurifdiction of Lucanas begins about
twenty-five or thirty leagues fouth-weft of Guamanga.
Its temperature is cold and rhoderate. The parts
of
128
Book I
A VOYAGE TÓ
+
of the former breed large droves of all forts of cattle;
and thoſe of the latter are fertile in grain, herbs
and fruits. It alfo abounds in valuable filver mines, in
which chiefly the riches of Peru confift, and by that
means made the center of a very large commerce;
great numbers of merchants reforting hither with
their goods, and others för purchafing fuch provi-
fions as their own countries do not afford, for which
they give in exchange ingots and pinnas of filver.
III. Diocess of the audience of LIMA.
Cusco.
Or all the cities in Peru, Cufco is the moft an-
cient, being of the fame date with the eaft empire of
the Yncas. It was founded by the firft Ynca Mango
Capac, as the feat and capital of his empire. Hav-
ing peopled it with the firft Indians who voluntarily
fubmitted to him, he divided it into two parts;
which he called high and low Cufco, the former
having been peopled by Indians which the emperor
himſelf had affembled, and the latter by thofe whom
his confort Mama-Oello had prevailed upon to leave
their wandring manner of life. The firft forms the
N. and the latter the S. part of the city. The houfes
originally were low and fmall like cottages; but as
the empire encreafed they affumed a new appearance;
fo that when the Spaniards landed in thefe parts, they
were aſtoniſhed at the largeñefs and fplendor of the
city, efpecially the magnificence of the temple of the
fun, the grandeur of the palaces of the Ynca, and
the pomp and richness becoming the feat of fo vaft
an empire. It was in the month of October 1534,
when Don Francifco Pizarro entered and took pof-
feffion of it in the name of Charles V. emperor, and
king of Spain. This was followed by a fiege of the
Ynca Mango, who laid great part of it in afhes, but
without diflodging the Spaniards.
+
THIS city ftands in a very uneven fituation on the
fides of the mountains, there being no other moré
con-
CH. XII.
SOUTH AMERICA;
129
convenient near it. On a mountain contiguous to
the north part of the city are the ruins of that fa
mous fort built by the Yncas for their defence;
and it appears from thence, that the defign was to
incloſe the whole mountain with a prodigious wall,
of fuch conſtruction as to render the aſcent of it
abfolutely impracticable to an enemy, and at the
fame time eaſily to be defended by thoſe within;
in order to prevent all approach to the city. This
wall was entirely of free ftone, and ftrongly built,
like all the other works of the Yncas, defcribed
Vol. I. but ftill more remarkable for its dimenfions
and the largeneſs of the ftones, which are of different
magnitudes and figures. Thoſe compofing the prin
cipal part of the work are of fuch prodigious di-
menfions, that it is difficult to imagine how it was
poffible for the ftrength of man, unaffifted by ma-
chines, to have brought them hither from the quar-
ries. The interftices formed by the irregularities of
thefe enormous maffes are fill'd with fmaler, and fo
cloſely joined as not to be perceived without a very
narrow inſpection. One of theſe large ftones is ftill
lying on the ground, and feems not to have been ap-
plied to the uſe intended, and is fuch an enormous
maſs, that it is aſtoniſhing to human reaſon to think
by what means it could be brought thither. It is
called la Canfada, or the troubleſome, alluding pro-
bably to the labour of bringing it from the quarry.
The internal works of this fortrefs confifting of apart
ments, and two other walls, are chiefly in ruins, but
the outward wall is ftanding.
THE city of Cufco is nearly equal to that of
Lima. The north and weft fides, are furrounded
by the mountain of the fortrefs, and others called
Sanca: on the fouth it borders on a plain, on which
are ſeveral very beautiful walks. Moſt of the houſes
are of ftone, well contrived, and covered with tiles,
whofe lively red, gives them an elegant appearance.
VOL, II,
K
The
130
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
1
The apartments are very fpacious, and finely deco-
rated, the inhabitants being noted for their elegant
tafte. The moldings of all the doors are gilt, and
the other ornaments and furniture anfwerable.
THE cathedral of Cufco, both with regard to
materials, architecture, and difpofition, greatly re-
fembles that of Lima, but is a much fmaller ftructure.
It is built entirely of ftone, and the architecture is
even thought to exceed it. The Sacrifty is called
Nueftra Senora del Triumpho, being the place where
the Spaniards defended themfelyes from the fury of
the Indians, when furrounded by the army of the
Ynca Manco; and though the whole city was fe-
veral times fet on fire, the flames had no effect on
this part; which was attributed to the fpecial protec-
tion of the holy virgin. It is ferved by three prieſts,
one in particular for the Indians of the parish, and
the other two for the Spaniards. Befides this, Cufco
alſo contains eight other parishes; namely,
I. Belin. II. The church of the general hofpital,
which has alfo its prieſt and its parifh. III. Santa
Ana. IV. Santiago. V. San Blas.
V. San Blas. VI. San Chri-
ftoval. VII. San Sebaftian. VIII. San Geronymo.
And though the firft of the two laft be a league, and
the fecond two leagues from the city, they are reckoned
among the number of its pariſhes.
HERE is alſo a convent of Dominicans, the prin-
cipal walls of which were formerly thofe of the tem-
ple of the fun, and at prefent the high altar ftands
in the very place, where once was a golden image
of that planet. There is likewife at Cufco a con-
vent of Francifcans, which is the head of that order
in this province. The convents of the Auguftines
and the fathers of mercy in this city, are alfo the
principal of their reſpective orders. The Jefuits
have likewiſe a college here. The convent of St. Juan
de Dios and that of the Bethlemites, which are both
very large, are hofpitals for the fick; the latter is
par-
CH. XII. SOUTH AMERICA.
131
particularly appropriated to the Indians, who are
there uſed with the greateft care and tenderness.
The nunneries are thofe of St. Clare, St. Catherine,
the barefooted Carmelites, and a Nazarine fifter-
hood.
-
THE government of this city confifts of a corre-
gidor, placed at the head of the magiftrates, who
are the chief nobility, and out of theſe are annually
chofen two ordinary Alcaldes, according to the cu-
ftom of all the cities in fouth America. The mem-
bers of the cathedral chapter befides the bishop, are
five dignitaries, namely, the dean, archdeacon, chan-
ter, rector and treaſurer; two canons by competition,
a magiftral, and penetentiary; three canons by pre-
fentation, and two prebendaries. Here are three
colleges, in the firft, called St. Anthony, a feminary
for the fervice of the cathedral, are taught latin,
the ſciences and divinity. The ſecond is under the
direction of the Jefuits, where thefe fathers inftruct
youths of fortune. The third, called St. Francis de
Borja, belongs alfo to the Jefuits, and is appointed
for the education of the fons of Caziques, or In-
dian princes. The two former confer all degrees
below that of doctor, and have been erected into
univerfities.
AMONG the courts of juftice, is one for the re-
venue, confifting of two judges. Here is alfo a
court of inquifition, and of the croifade; together
with the fame offices as in the other large cities al-
ready deſcribed. Formerly this city was very full
of Spaniards, and among them many noble fami-
lies; but at prefent its inhabitants are very much
declined.
Furifdictions in the Diocefs of Cusco.
I. Cuſco.
II. Quifpicanchi.
III. Avancay.
IV. Paucartambo.
K 2
V. Colcaylares.
VI. Chilques, and Maf-
ques.
VII. Cotabamba.
VIII. Canas,
132
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
XII. Carabaya.
F
VIII. Canas, and
Cances, or Tinta.
IX. Aymaraes.
X. Chumbi-Vilcas.
XI. Lampa.
XIII. Afangaro, and
Afilo.
XIV. Apolo-Bamba.
I. THE jurifdiction of Cufco extends two leagues;
the temperature of air is various, but both the heat
and cold very ſupportable, except in fome parts where
the cold is intenfe: thefe, however, afford good pa-
ſture for all kinds of cattle, whilft the valleys produce
plenty of grain and fruits.
II. THE jurifdiction of Quifpicanchi, begins as
it were at the fouth gates of Cufco, ftretching from
E. to W. above twenty leagues. The lands belong
in general to the gentry of Cufco, and produce plenty
of wheat, maize, and fruits. Here are alfo manu-
factories of bays, and coarfe woollen ftuffs. Part of
this province borders on the forefts inhabited by wild
Indians, and produces great quantities of Coca, which
forms one of the principal branches of its commerce.
III. FOUR leagues north-eaft from the city of
Cufco, begins the jurifdiction of Avancay, and ex-
tends above thirty leagues; the air differing in tem-
perature according to the fituation of its parts; but
is in general rather hot than temperate, and, ac-
cordingly, many parts of it are taken up with large
plantations of canes, which yield a very rich fugar.
The lands where the air is more temperate, abound
in wheat, maize and fruits, part of which are ſent
to the city of Cufco. In this province is the valley
Xaquijaguana, corruptly called Xajaguana, where
Gonzalo Pizarro was defeated and taken prifoner by
Pedro de la Gafco.
IV. PAUCARTAMBO begins eight leagues eaft of
Cufco, and is of a confiderable extent.
This pro-
vince produced in the time of the Yncas the greateſt
quantity of Coca, with which it carried on a very pro-
fitable commerce; but is greatly declined fince this
[
fhrub
;
CH.XII. SOUTH AMERICA.
133
fhrub has been planted in other provinces. The foil
is equally fertile in other products.
V. THE jurifdiction of Calcaylares begins four
leagues W. of the city of Cufco. The air every
where excels that of all the other provinces, and,
accordingly produces an exuberance of all kinds of
grain and fruits. In the hottest parts called Lares,
were formerly very large plantations of fugar canes,
but for want of hands to cultivate them, they are at
preſent ſo diminiſhed, that inſtead of fixty or eighty
thouſand arobas, which they annually produced in
the time of their profperity, they are now reduced to
fomething less than thirty; but the fugar is of fuch
an excellent kind, that without any other preparation
than that of the country, it is equal both in colour
and hardneſs to the refined fugar of Europe. This
diminution of its fugar, has greatly leffened the prin-
cipal branch of its commerce.
VI. S. E. of Cufco, and at the diftance of about
feven or eight leagues, begins the jurifdiction of Chil-
ques and Mafques, extending above thirty leagues
in length. The temperature of the air is proportioned
to the fituation of its feveral parts, fome of which
are very fertile in grain, and others feed vaft num-
bers of cows and fheep. But befides thefe its com-
merce is greatly augmented by the woollen manufac
tures of the Indians.
VII. S. W. of Cuſco, and about twenty leagues
diſtance, begins the jurifdiction of Cotabamba, which
afterwards extends above thirty leagues between the
rivers Avancay and Apurimac: In which extent are
different temperatures of air. It abounds in all kinds
of cattle, and the temperate parts produce plenty of
wheat, maize, and fruits. Here are alfo mines of
filver and gold, the richneſs of which formerly ren-
dered this province very flouriſhing; but at preſent
their produce is greatly declined.
VIII. THE jurifdiction of Canas and Car ches or
K 3
Tinta,
134
BOOK I,
A VOYAGE TO
1
Tinta, begins about fifteen or twenty leagues S. of
Cufco, and extends about twenty leagues in every
direction. The Cordillera divides it into two parts;
the highest called Canas and the loweft Canches.
The latter by reafon of its temperate air yields all
kinds of grains and fruits; whilſt the former affords
paſture for very numerous flocks and herds; and in the
meadows between the eminences are fed no lefs than
twenty five or thirty thouſand mules, brought thither
from Tucuma to pafture. Here is a very great fair
for thefe creatures, to which dealers refort from all
parts of the diocefs. In the part called Canas is the
famous filver mine Condonoma.
ABOUT forty leagues S. W. from Cufco is the jurif-
diction of Aymaraes, which extends thirty farther, and
like the former has different temperatures of air. The
lands abound in fugar, cattle, and grain; and alfo in
mines of gold and filver, which formerly produced
large quantities of thofe valuable metals; but at pre-
ſent few of them are wrought, the country being too
thinly inhabited.
X. SOMETHING more than forty leagues from
Cufco, begins the jurifdiction of Chumbi Vilcas,
which in fome parts extends above thirty leagues,
has different temperatures of air, great quantities of
corn and fruits, and large herds of cattle; together
with fome mines of filver and gold.
XI. THE jurifdiction of Lampa begins thirty leagues
S. of Cufco, and is the principal of all the provinces
included under the name of Callao. Its plains are in-
terrupted with fmall hills, but both abound in good
paſture; and accordingly this province is particularly
remarkable for its quantity of cattle, with which it
carries on a very profitable trade; but the air being
every where cold, the only fruits of the earth are
Papas and Quincas. Another very confiderable ad-
vantage are its filver mines, being very rich, and
conftantly worked.
XII THE
CH. XII.
135
SOUTH AMERICA.
XII. THE jurifdiction of Carabaya begins ſixty
leagues S. E. of Cufco, and extends above fifty leagues.
The greateſt part of it is cold; but the valleys fo warm
as to produce Coca, and abounds in all kinds of fruits,
grain, and pulfe, together with fufficient paftures for
cattle of all kinds. Here are feveral gold mines, and
the two famous lavatories, called Lavaderos de San
Juan del Oro, and Pablo Coya; alſo that of Monte
de Ananea, two leagues from the town of Poto,
where there is an office for collecting the Quintos or
fifth, belonging to the king. In this province alfo
is a river, which feparates it from the mountains of
the wild Indians, and is known to abound fo greatly
in gold, that at certain times the Caziques ſend out
a certain number of Indians in companies from the
towns in their refpective districts to the banks of
this river, where by waſhing the fands in fmall wells
they dig for that purpofe, they foon find a fufficient
quantity of gold to pay the royal tribute. This
kind of fervice they call Chichina. This province
has alſo mines of filver, which produce vaſt quan-
tities of that metal. In 1713 was diſcovered in the
mountain of Ucuntaya a vein or ftratum nearly of
folid filver, which though foon exhaufted, yielded
fome millions, and hopes have been conceived from
it of meeting with others, whofe riches will be of
a longer continuance. This jurifdiction is alfo fa-
mous for the gold mine called Aporama, which is
very rich, and the metal twenty three carats fine.
XIII. THE jurifdiction of Afangaro and Afilo,
which lies about fifty leagues S. of Cufco, is every
where cold, and confequently proper only for breeding
cattle, in which, however, it carries on a very pro-
fitable trade. In the N. E. parts which border on
thofe of Caravaya, are fome filver mines, but a few
of them only are worked. Some of its lands produce
plenty of thoſe roots and grains which naturally
flouriſh in a cold air, as Papas, Quinoas, and Ca-
K 4
naguas
136
A VOYAGE TO
J
Book I,
naguas; of the two laft the natives makes Chica in
the fame manner as it is made with maize. This ju-
riſdiction belongs to the audience of Charcas.
XIV. ABOUT fixty leagues from Cufco, on the
borders of the Moxos, which are miffions of the
Jefuits, are others called Apolo-bamba, belonging
to the Francifcans. Theſe confift of feven towns of
Indians newly converted, and who having received
the doctrine of the goſpel, have abandoned the fa-
vage manner in which they formerly lived. In or-
der to render the miffionaries more refpected by the
Indians, and at the fame time to defend the latter
from the infults of their idolatrous brethren, a ma-
jor general is poſted here, who is both a civil and
military officer, adminiftring juftice, and command-
ing in chief the feveral bodies of militia formed by
he inhabitants of theſe towns and villages.
IV. Diocefs of the Audience of LIMA.
AREQUIPA.
THE city of Arequipa was founded in 1539 by
order of Don Franciſco Pizarro, in a place known
by the fame name; but this fituation being found
very diſadvantageous, the inhabitants obtain'd per-
miffion to remove it to the valley of Quilca, where
it at preſent ſtands about twenty leagues diftant from
the fea. The lands in its dependency having been uni-
ted to the empire of the Yncas by Maita Capac, the
goodnefs of the foil and the purity of the air in-
duced that monarch, for the farther improvement of
the country, to draw 3000 families from fuch adja-
cent provinces as were lefs fertile, and with theſe to
people four or five towns.
THIS City is one of the largeſt in all Peru, delightful-
ly fituated in a plain, and the houſes well built of ſtone,
and vaulted. They are not all of an equal height,
though generally lofty, but commodious, finely de-
corated on the outfide, and neatly furniſhed within.
The temperature of the air is remarkably good:
and
1
CH. XII.
137
SOUTH AMERICA.
and though fometimes a fmall froft is feen, the cold
is never exceffive, nor is the heat troubleſome; fo
that the fields are always cloathed with verdure and
enameled with flowers, as in a perpetual ſpring. The
inhabitants enjoy an exemption from many diſeaſes
common in other countries, partly owing to their care
in keeping the ftreets clean by means of canals which
extend to a river running near the city; and by theſe
all the filth of the city is fwept away.
BUT theſe pleaſures and advantages are allayed
by the dreadful fhocks of earthquakes, to which,
in common with all thofe parts of America, it is fo
fubject, that it has been four times by thefe convul-
fions of nature laid in ruins; befides other ſmall
fhocks not attended with fuch terrible confequences.
The first of thofe was felt in 1582; the fecond on
the 24th of February 1600, which was accompa-
nied with an eruption of a volcano called Guayna-
Patina, in the neighbourhood of the city; the third
happen'd in 1604, and the laft in 1725. And tho'
the defolation attending the three laft was not fo
univerfal, yet the publick buildings, and the moſt
stately houſes were laid in ruins.
THE city is very populous, and among its inha-
bitants many noble families, this being the place
where moſt of the Spaniards fettled, on account of
the goodneſs of the air, and the fertility of the foil;
as alfo for the conveniency of commerce at the port
of Aranta, which is only twenty leagues diftant.
The civil, political and military government of the
city is executed by a corregidor, who is placed at
the head of the regidores, from which are annually
chofen two ordinary Alcaldes.
THE city of Arequipa did belong to the diocefs
of Cufco, till the year 1609, when it was erected
into a particular bifhoprick on the 20th of July.
The chapter befides the bishop confift of the five
ufual dignitaries, namely, the dean, archdeacon, chan-
tor,
ļ
138
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
tor, rector, and treaſurer; three canons and two
prebends. Befides the facrifty, which is ferved by
two prieſts for the Spaniards, the parish of Santa
Martha is appropriated to all the Indian inhabitants.
Here are two Francifcan convents, one of obfervants,
and the other of recollets, both belonging to the pro-
vince of Cufco; alfo one of Dominicans, and an-
other of Auguftines, depending on Lima; and a
monaftery of the fathers of mercy, fubordinate to
that of Cuſco. Under their respective fraternities of
Lima here is alfo a college of Jefuits, and a convent
and hoſpital of St. Juan de Dios. Here is a feminary
for the fervice of the cathedral; and two nunneries;
namely, one of the Carmelites, and the other of St.
Catharine. A third is now building for the order
of Santa Rofa. There is alfo at Arequipa an office
of revenue, under the direction of an accomptant
and treaſurer; together with commiffaries of the in-
quifition and croiſades, with their fubalterns, as in
all the other cities.
Jurifdictions in the Diocefs of AREQUIPA.
IV. Caylloma.
I. Arequipa.
II. Camana.
V. Monquegua.
III. Condefuyos de Arequipa. VI. Arica.
I. AREQUIPA, Comprehends the fuburbs and towns
in its neighbourhood, where the climate being the
fame as in the city, the country is perpetually covered
with flowers, corn, and fruits; while the excellence
of the paſtures is fufficiently evident from the numbers
of fine cattle fed in them.
II. ALONG the coaft of the fouth-fea, but at fomè
diftance from the fhore is the jurifdiction of Camana,
which is very large, but contains many defarts, eſpe-
cially along the coaft. Eastward it extends to the
borders of the Cordillera; fo that the temperature of
fome parts of its jurifdiction is nearly the fame with
that of the former, while others are cold; both pro-
ducing the grain and fruits of a correſpondent nature.
Its
CH. XII. SOUTH AMERICA.
139
Its principal trade confifts in affes. It has filver
mines near the mountains, but of little advantage, as
they are not worked.
III. N. of Arequipa and thirty leagues diftant from
that city, is the jurifdiction of Condefuyos de Are-
quipa, extending about thirty leagues, with different
temperatures of the air, and confequently produces
grains and fruits. Here is bred the wild Cochineal,
with which the Indians carry on a kind of trade with
thofe provinces where the woollen manufactures flou-
rifh. They firft pulverize the Cochineal by grinding,
and after mixing four ounces of it, with twelve of
violet maize, they form it into fquare cakes called
Mango, each weighing four ounces, and fell it for a
dollar per pound. This country abounds in gold
and filver mines; but they are not worked with the
care and diligence of former times.
IV. AT about thirty leagues eaft from the city of
Arequipa, begins Caylloma, famous for a mountain
of the ſame name, and the filver mines it contains.
Though theſe mines have been long difcovered and
conftantly and induftriouſly worked, their produce
is ftill fo confiderable, that in the principal village,
called by the fame name, there is a governor and of-
fice appointed for receiving the king's fifths, and
vending the quickfilver ufed in feparating the metal
from the ore, The cold in the greateſt part of the
country is fo intenfe, that the inhabitants are obliged
to have recourſe to the neighbouring provinces, for
the fruits, of the earth. Even the declivities of moun-
tains and valleys produce but little. In fome parts
of this province are wild affes, like thoſe already men-
tioned in Vol. I.
V. THE jurifdiction of Monquegua lies about forty
leagues S. of the city of Arequipa, and fixteen from
the coaft of the fouth-fea. The principal town,
which bears the fame name, is inhabited by Spaniards,
and among them ſeveral noble and opulent families.
2
This
140
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
1
This jurifdiction extends at leaſt forty leagues in
length, and in a happy climate, adorned with large
vineyards, from the produce of which great quantities
of wine and brandy are made; theſe conſtitute its
whole commerce, fupplying all the provinces border-
ing on the Cordilleras as far as Potofi, by land car-
riage; while they are exported by fea to Callao,
where they are greatly valued. Here are alfo Papas
and Olives.
VI. THE laſt jurifdiction of this diocefs is Arica,
which extends along the coaft of the fouth-fea. Be-
fides the heat, and inclemency of the air, the greateſt
part of the country is barren, producing only Aji,
or Guinea pepper, from which alone it drives a very
advantageous trade, as may eafily be imagined from
the vaſt confumption of it in all theſe parts of Ame-
rica. Accordingly the dealers in this commodity
refort hither from the provinces on the other fide of
the mountains, and by computation, the annual pro-
duce of theſe plantations amount to no less than
60000 dollars per annum. The pods of this pepper
are about a quarter of a yard in length, and when
gathered are dried in the fun, and packed up in bags
or ruſhes, each bag containing an aroba, or quarter
of a hundred weight; and thus they are exported to
all parts of the kingdom, and uſed as an ingredient
in moſt of their diſhes. Other parts of this jurifdiction
are famous for vaft quantities of large and excellent
olives, far exceeding the fineft produced in Europe,
being nearly as large as a hen's egg. They extract
fome oil from their olives, and find a good market
for it in the provinces of the Cordillera; others are
pickled, and fome, together with a ſmall quantity of
oil, exported to Callao.
...
•
A
1
CHAP.
CH. XIII. SOUTH AMERICA.
141
1
CHAP. XIII.
Of the Audience of CHARCAS.
HE province of Charcas, in the extent of its
7 juriſdiction, is equal to that of Lima; but with
this diſadvantage, that many of its parts are not fo
well inhabited, fome being full of the vaft defarts
and impenetrable forefts; while others are full of
vaft plains intercepted by the ftupendous heights of
the Cordilleras, fo that it is inhabited in thoſe parts
only which are free from theſe inconveniences. The
name of Charcas formerly included many populous
provinces of Indians, whom the Ynca Capac Yupan-
qui fubjected to his empire; but he carried his arms
no farther than the provinces of Tutyras and Cha❤
qui, where he terminated his conquefts towards Cal-
lafuyo. On the death of this monarch his fon
Ynca Roca, the fixth in the fucceffion of thofe em-
perors, puſhed his conquefts farther in the fame
part, till he became fovereign of all the interme.
diate nations to the province of Chaquifaca, where
was afterwards founded the city of Plata, at preſent
the capital of the whole province of Charcas.
jurifdiction begins on the north fide, at Vilcanota,
belonging to the province of Lampa in the diocefs
of Cufco, and reaches fouthward to Buenos Ayres.
Eaſtward it extends to Brafil, being terminated by
the meridian of demarcation; and weftward part of
it reaches to the fouth-fea, particularly at Atacama,
the moſt northern part of it on this fide. The re-
mainder of Charcas borders on the kingdom of Chili.
Theſe vaft tracts of land give one archbishop and
five biſhops his fuffragans, namely,
I. La Pas.
The archbishop of PLATA.
Bishopricks.
Its
II. Santa Cruz de la Sierra.
III. Tu-
[
142
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
III. Tucuman.
IV. Paraguay.
V. Buenos Ayres.
Archbishoprick of the Audience of Chacas, or Chu-
quifaca.
LA PLATA.
The Spaniards having conquered all the provin-
ces between Tumbez and Cufco, and quelled the
tumults fomented among the conquerors themſelves,
turned their thoughts on reducing the more remote
nations. Accordingly in the year 1538, Gonzalo
Pizarro, and other commanders, marched from Cuf-
co at the head of a large body of troops, and ad-
vancing as far as Charcas, were oppofed, by the
nations inhabiting this country, and the Carangues,
with fuch vigour, that it was not till after feveral
obftinate battles, that they fubmitted. But their re-
fiftance did not equal that made by the Chuquifa-
cas; for Pizarro having, after feveral actions, pene-
trated to their principal town, they befieged him in
it, and the danger was fo great, that without the
fpeedy fuccours fent him from Cuſco by his brother
the marquis don Franciſco Pizarro, the few Spani-
ards who furvived the former actions would have
been all cut off. But on the arrival of this rein-
forcement, among which were a great number of
volunteers of diftinction, he routed the Indians, who
being no longer able to continue the war, fubmitted,
and acknowledged the fovereignty of the king of Spain.
In the following year 1539, Pizarro convinced of
the importance of making a ſtrong fettlement there,
commiffioned captain Pedro Anzures to build a
town, which was accordingly done on the fite of
that of Chuquifaca, and great numbers of thoſe who
had fhared in the conqueft, continued there in order
to fubdue the other contiguous nations. This town
they called Plata, alluding to the filver mines of the
mountain of Porco in its neighbourhood, and from
which the Yncas received great quantities of filver,
keeping
CH. XIII.
143
SOUTH AMERICA.
keeping in pay a proper number of Indians for
working them; but the primitive name of Chuqui-
faca has prevailed, and is now commonly uſed.
This city ftands in a fmall plain environed by emi-
nences which defend it from the winds. The tem-
perature of the air in fummer is very mild; nor is
there any confiderable difference throughout the
year; but in the winter which here begins in Sep-
temper and continues till March, tempefts of thun-
der and lightning are very common, and the rains
of long continuance; but all the other parts of the
year the atmoſphere is bright and ferene. The houſes
both in the great ſquare and thofe adjoining to it
have one ſtory befides the ground floor. They are
covered with tiles, are very roomy and convenient,
with delightful gardens planted with the fruits of Eu-
rope. But water is fo fcarce that they have hardly
enough to fupply the neceffary purpoſes of life: the
little they have being fetched from feveral public
fountains difperfed in different parts of the city. The
inhabitants confift of Indians and Spaniards, and are
faid to amount to about 14000.
THE cathedral is large, and divided into three
aifles, of good architecture, and finely adorned with
paintings and gildings. The parifh is ferved by
two prieſts, one for the Spaniards and the other for
the Indians. Here is alſo another parish called St.
Sebaftian, fituated at one end of the city, and is
appropriated to the Indians living within its pre-
cinct, who are thought to be about three thouſand.
The convents are thofe of the Francifcans, Domi-
nicans, Auguftines, the fathers of mercy, and a
college of Jefuits; all ſpacious buildings with fplen-
did churches. Here is alfo a conventual hofpital of
St. Juan de Dios, the expences of which are defrayed
by the king; likewife two nunneries, of the order of
St. Clare, and of St. Monica.
THE city of la Plata has alſo an univerfity, de-
dicated
;
..
144
Book f
A VOYAGE TO
Loca
dicated to St. Francis Xavier, the chairs of which
are filled indifferently either by fecular clergy or lay
men; but the rector is always a Jefuit. Here are
alfo two other colleges in which lectures of all kinds
are read. That of St. John is under the direction of
the Jefuits; while the archbishop nominates to that
of St. Chriftopher, which is a feminary.
Two leagues from Plata runs the river Cachimayo
along the plains, having on its banks feveral plea-
fant feats of the inhabitants; and about fix in the
road leading to Potofi, is the river of Philco-mayo,
which is paffed over by a large ftone bridge. During
fome months of the year this river furniſhes, the city
of Plata with great plenty of delicious fith; among
which is one called the Dorado, which generally
weighs between twenty and twenty five pounds. The
other provifions, as bread, flesh and fruits, are
brought from the adjacent provinces.
THE chief tribunal in Plata is that of the Audi-
ence, erected in the year 1559, and whofe prefident
has the titles of governor and captain-general of
the province, exclufive of the governments of Santa
Cruz de la Sierra, Tucuman, Paraguay and Buenos
Ayres, which are independent, and in military cafes
abfolute. It has alſo a Fifcal, a protector-fifcal of
the Indians, and two fupernumerary auditors.
THE magiftracy or corporation, as in all other
cities of this country, confiſts of regidores, who are
perfons of the firft diftinction, with the Corregidor
at their head, and from them are annually chofen
two ordinary Alcaldes, for maintaining order and
the police. Plata was erected into a bishopric in 1551,
the place having then the title of city; and in the year
608 was raiſed to a metropolis. Its chapter confifts
of a dean, archdeacon, chantor, treafurer and rector;
five canons, four prebendaries and four minor pre-
bendaries. The archbishop and his chancellor confti-
tute the ecclefiaftical tribunal.
HERE
1
Ch. XIII. SOUTH AMERICA;
145
HERE is alfo a tribunal of Croifade, with a com-
miffary, fubdelegate, and other officers: likewife a
court of inquifition fubordinate to that of Lima, and
an office for taking care of the effects of perfons dy-
ing inteftate; all eſtabliſhed on the fame foundation
with thoſe in other cities already mentioned.
THE jurifdictions belonging to the archbishopric
of Plata, are the fourteen following:
I. THE city of Plata, and Imperial Town of
Potofi.
II. Tomina.
III. Porco.
IX. Cochabamba.
X. Chayantas.
IV. Tarija.
V. Lipes.
VI. Amparaes.
VII. Oruro.
VIII. Pilya, and Pafpaya.
XI. Paria.
XII. Carangas.
XIII. Cuacica.
XIV. Atacama.
I. THE jurifdiction of the city of Plata is of fuch
prodigious extent, as to include the imperial town
of Potofi, which is the continual refidence of the Cor-
regidor. There alfo is eſtabliſhed the office of reve-
nue, which confifts of an accountant and treaſurer,
with clerks; as moft convenient on account of its
vicinity to the mines, for taking account of the filver
produced by them.
THE famous mountain of Potofi, at the foot of
which on the ſouth fide ftands the town of the fame
name, is known all over the commercial world, as
having been greatly enriched by the filver it pro-
duces. The diſcovery of theſe immenfe mines hap-
pened in the year 1545, by an accident feemingly
fortuitous. An Indian, by fome called Gualca, and
by others Hualpa, purfuing fome wild goats up
this mountain, and coming to a part very fteep, he
laid hold of a ſmall ſhrub in order to climb it with
the greater celerity; but the fhrub being unable to
fupport his weight came up by the roots, and dif-
covered a mafs of fine filver; and at the fame time.
VOL. II.
L
he
146.
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
he found fome lumps of the fame metal among the
clods which adhered to the roots. This Indian,
who lived at Porco, haftened home with theſe firſt
fruits of his diſcovery, waſhed the filver and made
ufe of it, repairing when his ftock was near ex-
haufted, to his perpetual fund. At length an inti-
mate friend of his called Guanca, obferving fuch a
happy change in his circumftances, was defirous of
knowing the caufe, and urged his queftions with a
warmth, that Gualca was unable to deny. For
fome time they retired in concert to the mountain
for freſh fupplies of filver, till Gualca refufing to
diſcover his method of purifying the metal, Gu-
anca revealed the whole fecret to his mafter Villar-
roel, a Spaniard who lived at Porco. Immediately
on this information he went on the 21ft of April
1545, to view this fortunate breach in the mountain,
and the mine was without delay worked, with im-
menfe advantage.
THIS firft mine was called the difcoverer, as
having been the occafion of diſcovering other four-
ces of riches incloſed in the bowels of this moun-
tain; for in a few days another was found equally
rich, and called the Tin mine: fince that another
has been difcovered, and diftinguifhed by the name
of Rica, as ſurpaffing all the reft: and was fuc-
ceeded by the Mendieta, Theſe are the principal
mines of Potofi, but there are feveral fmaller cross-
ing the mountain on all fides. The fituation of the
former of theſe mines is on the N. fide of the moun-
tain, their direction being to the S. a little inclining
to the W. and it is the opinion of the moſt intelli-
gent miners in this country, that thofe which run in.
thefe directions are the richeſt.
On a report of theſe important difcoveries peo-
ple from all parts retired to Potofi, particularly from:
the city of Plata, which is fituated about twenty five
leagues from the mountain; fo that at prefent, be-
fides
CH. XIII.
147
SOUTH AMERICA.
fides its extraordinary riches, having among its in-
habitants many noble families, particularly thoſe
concerned in the mines, the circuit of the town is
near two leagues. The air of the mountain being
extreamly cold and dry, renders the adjacent coun-
try remarkably barren, producing neither grain,
fruits, herbs, or other efculents. The town, how-
ever, is fo plentifully provided as to enjoy an abun-
dance of every kind; and the trade for provifions
is greater here than in any other place, that of Lima
alone excepted. Nor will this appear at all ftrange
if the great number of people employed in the mines
be confidered. Some provinces fend the beſt of
their grain and fruits; others their cattle; others
their manufactures; and thoſe who trade in Euro-
pean goods refort to Potofi, as to a market where
there is a great demand, and no want of filver to
give in exchange.
BESIDES this commerce, here are a fet of perfons
called Aviadores, who find their account in ad-
vancing to the mafters of the mines coined filver to
pay their neceffary expences, receiving in exchange
filver in ingots and pinnas. Another article of great
confequence is the trade of quickfilver for the ufe
of theſe mines: but this branch the crown has re-,
ſerved to itſelf. The vaft confumption of this mi-
neral may in fome meaſure be conceived by the
great quantity of filver produced by thefe mines;
for before the invention of extracting the filver with
leſs mercury, a mark of that mineral was confumed
in obtaining a mark of fine filver; and often by the
ignorance of the workmen, a ftill greater quantity;
but the immenfe confumption of quickfilver in the
mines of this mountain, and the riches extracted
from it, will beft appear from the following ac-
counts, of two authors, who were perfectly maſters
of the fubject, The firft is that of the Rev. Alon-.
zo Barba, parifh prieft in the imperial town of
£ 2
Potofi,
V
148
Book I
A VOYAGE TO
?
Potofi, who, in a piece on metals publiſhed in the
year 1637, fays, that from the year 1574, when
mercury was firſt ufed here in extracting the filver,
the royal office of Potofi has received, above
204700 quaintails of mercury, exclufive of what had
been clandeftinely bought by private perfons, and
which amounted to no fmall quantity. And as this was
confumed in the ſpace of fixty three years, the annual
amount is about 3249 quintails. The fecond ac-
count is given us by don Gafper de Efcalona, who
in his Gazophilacio Perubico (fol. 193.) declares,
from very good authority, that before 1638, it ap-
peared by the public accounts, that the produce of the
filver amounted to 395619000 dollars, which in ninety
three years, the time it had then been diſcovered, a-
mounted to 41255043 dollars per annum. Hence an
idea may be formed of the vaft commerce, which has
for many years been carried on in this town, and which
is ftill like to continue for a long time: fuch enor-
mous fums being annually bartered for goods fent hi-
ther, its whole trade confifting in filver extracted from
this mountain; and if fome diminution has been per-
ceived in its produce, it is ftill very confiderable
Ar a fmall diftance from Potofi are the hot medi-
cinal baths called Don Diego, whither fome refort for
health, and others for diverfion.
THE jurifdiction of Tomina, begins about eighteen
leagues S. E. from the city of Plata, borders eaft-
ward on a nation of wild Indians called Chiriguanos.
The climate is hot, and confequently its products are
fuch as are common to hot countries. Some parts
have vine-yards; and in others are made confiderable
quantities of fugar, It abounds alfo in cattle and
fheep. The extent in fome parts is near forty leagues.
The vicinity of the Chiriguanos is a continual unea-
nefs to the towns in this jurifdiction, and even to
the city of Plata itſelf, they having more than once
attempted to ſurprize it.
III. THE
CH. XIII.
149
SOUTH AMERICA.
III. THE jurifdiction of Porco begins at the W.
fide of the town of Potofi, and about 25 leagues di-
ftance from the city of Plata; extending about 20
farther. The coldnefs of its fituation occafions a
ſcarcity of grain and fruits; but, on the other hand, it
abounds in fine cattle of all forts. In this juriſdiction
is the mountain of Porco, whence it has its name,
and from whofe mines the Yncas, as I have already
obferved, extracted all the filver for their expences and
ornaments; and accordingly was the firft mine work-
ed by the Spaniards after the conqueſt.
IV. ABOUT 30 leagues S. of Plata lies the jurif-
diction of Tarija, or Chichas, the greateft extent
of which is about 35 leagues. The temperature
of
the air is various, being in fome parts hot, and in
others cold, whence it has the advantage of corn,
fruits, and cattle. This country every where abounds
in mines of gold and filver, and eſpecially that part
called Chocayas. Between this province and the
country inhabited by the wild Indians, runs the large
river Tipuanys, the fands of which being mixed with
gold, are waſhed like thofe of the river Caravaga,
already mentioned.
༣
V. IN the fame part as the former, but with a
fmali inclination towards the S. W. is the jurifdiction
of Lipes, and extends alfo thirty-five leagues. The
air is extreamly cold, fo that grain and fruit thrive
very little here; but it abounds in cattle, particularly
thofe natural to the country, as the Vicuna, Alpaca,
or Taruga, and the Llama. It must, however, be
obferved, that thefe creatures are common to all the
other provinces of Punas, that is, to thoſe where the
heaths and mountains are of fuch a height, as to render
the air continually cold. Here are alfo mines of gold,
but at prefent forfaken, tho' the remains of the old
works are ftill vifible, particularly in one of the
mountains near Colcha, known by the name of
Abetanis, which in the Indian language fignifies a
I. 3
golden
150
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
V
golden mine. That of St. Chriftopher de Acochala
was formerly one of the most famous in all Peru, for
the richnefs of its filver mines, the meal being in
fome parts cut out with a chifel; but now very greatly
declined, which may in a great meaſure be imputed
to a want of people for working them; it being highly
probable that the fame work would ftill produce nearly
an equal quantity of that valuable metal.
VI. THE jurifdiction of Amparaes begins at a little
diſtance to the eastward of the city of Plata, and is
terminated on the E. by the jurifdictions belonging
to the docefs of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, particularly
on that of Mifque pocona; and the corregidor of the
Mifquepocona
province of Amparaes has the cognizance of the In-
dian inhabitants of Plata. Its warm parts abound in
gran, particularly barley, which together with the
numercus droves of cattle in the colder parts, confti-
tute the chief branch of its trade.
VIII N. W. of Plata is the province of Oruro,
whoſe capital San Phelipe de Auftria de Oruro is 30
leagues diftant from it. The greateſt part of this ju-
rifdiction is fo cold as to deny it any efculent vegeta-
bles; but on the other hand it feeds numerous flocks
and herds, beſides great numbers of cattle peculiar to
the country, as Vicunas, Guanacos, and Llamas.
Here are alſo many gold and filver mines; the former,
tho' known even in the time of the Yncas, have been
feldom worked; but thofe of filver have yielded
great riches to the inhabitants of the province. They
are now however, according to all appearance, under
an irremediable decay, being overflowed, and all the
endeavours hitherto ufed, in order to drain them,
have proved ineffectual; ſo that thoſe of any confide-
ration at preſent are in the mountains of Popo, about
twelve leagues from the town, which is large and very
populous, from the trade carried on there with the
mines. It has a revenue office for collecting the fifths
belonging to the crown.
VIII. THE
{
CH. XIII.
151
SOUTH AMERICA.
VIII. THE province of Pilaya and Pafpaya, or
Cinti, lies S. of Plata, diſtance about 40 leagues.
the
The greateſt part of its jurifdiction being among
breaches of the mountains, is the better adapted for
producing all kinds of grain, pulfe, and fruits;
which, with the great quantity of wine made here,
enable it to carry on a very lucrative commerce with
the other provinces, which are not fo happily Gituated.
IX. THE province of Cochabamba, lies fifty leagues
S. E. of Plata, and fifty fix from Potofi. Its capi-
tal is one of the moft confiderable cities in Peru,
with regard to largenefs, and the number and wealth
of its inhabitants. The province in fome directions
extends above forty leagues. Befides the fituation of
the city in a moft fertile plain, the whole country is fo
fertilized by the many rivers and ſtreams, which
every where traverſe it, that this province is eſteemed
the granary of the whole archbishopric, and even of
the diocefs de la Paz. The air alfo is in moft parts
very mild and pure; and in fome fpots filver mines
have been diſcovered.
X. ABOUT fifty leagues N. W. from the city de
la Plata, lies the province of Chayanta extending
in fome parts about forty leagues. This country is.
very famous for its gold and filver mines. The for-
mer are indeed at prefent difcontinued, tho' the
antient fubterraneous paffages are ftill open. This
province is watered by the river Grande, in whoſe
fand confiderable quantities of gold duit, and grains
of that metal are found. The filver mines are ſtill
worked to great advantage; but with regard to
cattle, this province feeds no more than are barely
fufficient for its inhabitants.
XI. THE contiguous province to that of Chayanta,
on the N. W. fide of Plata, and feventy leagues
diftant from that city, is that of Paria, the extent
of which is about forty leagues. The air here is
cold, fo that it produces little grain, which is in fome
L 4
mea-
152
Book I,
A VOYAGE TO
meaſure compenfated by the great plenty of cattle
of all kinds; and the cheefes made here, both from
the milk of ſheep and cows, are fo highly efteem'd,
that they are ſent into every part of Peru: It has
alſo fome filver mines. The name of this province
is derived from a very large lake, being an arm of
that prodigious collection of waters called Titi-caca,
or Chucuito.
XII. THE province of Carangas, begins feventy
leagues W. from the city of Plata, and extends above
fifty leagues. The climate of this jurifdiction is fo
cold, that the only efculent vegetables here are the
Papa, Quinoa, and Canagua; but it abounds in
cattle. Here are a great number of filver mines
conftantly worked; among which that called Turco
is very remarkable for a fort of ore termed by miners.
Machacado; the fibres of the filver forming an
admirable intertexture with the ftone in which they
are contained. Mines of this kind are generally the
richeft. Befides this there are others in this jurif-
diction, which if not richer, are equally remarkable;
and theſe are found in the barren fandy defarts ex-
tending towards the coaft of the South Sea. And here,
only by digging in the fands, are found detached
lumps of filver, not mixed with any ore or ſtone, ſave
what adheres in fome parts to the metal. Thefe lumps
are called Papas, being taken out of the ground, in
the fame manner as that root. It is doubtlefs very dif-
ficult to account for the formation of theſe maffes of
filver, in a barren and moveable fand, remote from
any ore or mine. Two conjectures may, however,
be offered. The firft by admitting the continual re-
production of metals, of which there are indeed here
fo many evident proofs; as the matrices of gold and
filver, met with in many parts of this kingdom. Nay
the very mines themſelves, after being long forfaken,
have again been worked with great advantage; but
the ſkeletons of Indians found in old mines, and
covered
CH. XIII.
153
SOUTH AMERICA.
}
covered with fibres of filver, and the inward parts
alſo full of the fame metal, feem to put the matter
beyond difpute. If this be admitted, it is natural to
conclude, that the primordial matter of filver is firſt
fluid, and when it has acquired a certain degree of per-
fection, fome parts of it are filtrated through the pores
of the fand, till ſtopping in a place proper for com-
pleating the fixation, they there form a folid congeries
of filver.
THO' this conjecture be not deftitute of probability,
yet I am more inclined to embrace the ſecond, as it
is, in my opinion, more fimple and natural. Sub-
terraneous fires being very common in theſe parts of
America, as I have already obferved in fpeaking of
the earthquake, their activity is doubtlefs fo ſtrong
as to melt any metals depofited near the places where
they begin; and to communicate to them a heat
fufficient for keeping them a long time in a ftate of
fufion, and hence a portion of filver thus melted ne-
ceffarily fpreads, and introduces itſelf through the larger
pores of the earth, and continues to expand itſelf, till
being beyond the reach of the heat, it fixes, and re-
affumes its former confiftency, together with other
heterogeneous fubftances collected in its paffage.
To this hypotheſis, two objections may be offered;
one that the metal in fufion by changing its ſituation,
muſt be expoſed to the cold air, and, confequently,
foon condenſe. The fecond that the pores of the
earth being extreamly minute, particularly in a fandy
foil, the filver ſhould rather be found in filaments, or
fine ramifications, than in large lumps or pieces, as is
really the cafe. To both thefe objections I fhall en-
deavour to give a brief but fatisfactory anſwer.
BEFORE the filver begins to run from the place
where it was melted, the fubterraneous fire had per-
vaded the pores of the earth, which by the dilatation of
the body of air inclofed in them, became diftended;
the metal immediately follows, and finding a channel
2
fuf-
-
S
154
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
1
fufficiently capacious for introducing itſelf, farther
compreffes the particles of the earth contiguous to thoſe
it abrades, and, confequently, continues its courfe
without obftruction. The fubterraneous fire which
preceded the fufion, communicates to the earth a de-
gree of heat fufficient to expel the cold air, ſo that
the metal runs through it, till by degrees, the heat is
abated, and the metal becomes fixed. Another cir-
cumftance which contributes to prolong the heat, is,
there being often no fpiracle to thefe paffages, whence
the earth through which the metal flows, does not
foon emit the firft heat it contracted from the fubter-
raneous fire; confequently the metal will not be fixed
till at a confiderable diftance from the place of liquida-
tion; but the firſt particles of the metal being checked
by the cold they have gradually contracted, thoſe
which follow flow to the fame place, and there forms
a concreted mafs, or mixed body of filver and ſcoria,
brought with it from the original mine. It now re-
mains that we examine whether what is actually ob-
ferved in theſe lumps of filver, agrees with what has
been advanced, in order to determine whether this
opinion has a probable foundation.
THESE papas, or lumps of filver, are of a different
compofition from thofe found in the mine, having
all the appearances of melted ſilver, as any perfon, a
ftranger to the manner of finding them, would imme-
diately conclude. In them the filver forms a maís,
and the ſurface is covered over with terrene particles,
few or none of which are mixed with the filver; con-
formable to what is feen in metals melted, and fuffered
to cool without feparating the drofs. The terrene
particles adhering to the filver are black, and exhibit
all the marks of calcination, except that in fome it is
ftronger than in others; and as this muft happen if
the lumps are formed by the fufion of the metal, it
feems natural to conclude that they were really form-
ed in this manner.
THE
CH. XIII.
155
SOUTH AMERICA.
THE fize and figure of thefe lumps are very diffe-
rent; fome weighing about two marks, and others
much more; for among feveral which I faw at Lima
were two, one weighing 60, and the other above
150 marks, being a Paris foot in length; theſe in-
deed were the largeſt ever feen here. Thefe lumps of
filver are found in different parts of the fame ground,
tho' not often near one another. The metal in its
courſe tak-s various directions, introducing itſelf into
thoſe places where it finds the leaſt refiftance; and as
thefe parts are more or lefs capacious, the magnitude
of the papa is greater or fmaller.
XIII. ABOUT ninety leagues N. of the city of
Plata, but only forty from Paz, lies the province of
Ciacica. Its capital, which has the fame name, and
all the places fituated to the fouthward of it, belong to
the archbiſhopric of Plata; but many of thofe to the
northward of it are in the diocefs of Paz. The countries
in this jurifdiction extend in fome parts above a
hundred leagues, and confequently the temperature
is various. Some ſpots are very hot, and produce an
exuberance of coca, which fhrub alone is the fource
of a very confiderable commerce, fupplying all the
mine towns from Charcas to Potofi. The leaves of
this plant are packed in frails, each of which muſt,
according to the ordinance, contain eight pounds ;
and its current price at Oruro, Potofi, and the other
mine towns, is from nine to ten pieces of eight, and
fometimes more. The colder parts feed large herds
of cattle; together with Vicunas, Guanacos, and
other wild creatures. This province has alſo ſome
filver mines, but not fo many, nor fo rich, as the
preceding province.
XIV. ATTACAMA is the weſtern boundary of the
audience of Charcas, extending to the fouth fea; and
the principal town, called alfo Attacama, is no lefs
than 120 leagues from Plata. Its jurifdiction is of a
confiderable extent, and a great part of it very fruitful;
but
1
156
A VOYAGE TO
Book I.
but intermixed with fome defarts particularly towards
the S. where it divides the kingdoms of Peru and
Chili. On the coaft in this province there is every
year a large fiſhery of Tolo, a fort of fiſh common in
the S. fea, with which a very great trade is carried
on with the inland provinces, it being there the chief
food during Lent, and the other days of abftinence.
1
CHAP. XIV.
Account of the three Dioceffes of LA PAZ, SANTA
CRUZ DE LA SIERRA, and TUCUMAN; and
of their respective Provinces.
TH
HE province in which the prefent city of la
Paz, is fituated, was formerly known by the
name of Chuquiyapu,which in the idiom of that coun-
try is commonly thought to fignify Chacra, or an inhe-
ritance of gold, and is there corruptly called Chuquiabo.
Accordingly Garcelafo pretends that Chuquiapu figni-
fies Lanza Capitana, or principal lance; but this is
deriving it from the general language of the Yncas,
and with a difference in the penultima, it not being
uncommon for a word nearly alike in found to have
a very different fignification in each idiom. This
province was firft conquered by Mayta-Capac, the
fourth Ynca; and the Spaniards having afterwards
taken poffeffion of it, and quelled all diſturbances,
this city was founded by Pedro de la Gafca, that in
the vaft diftance of an hundred and feventy leagues
between Arequipa and Plata, there might be a fettle-
ment of Spaniards, for the improvement of commerce,
and the fafety and conveniency of the traders. The
prefident Gafca, committed the care of building it to
Alonſo de Mendoza, with orders that it fhould be
erected on a ſpot, midway between Cufco and
Charcas,
CH. XIV.
157
SOUTH AMERICA.
Charcas, which are one hundred and fixty leagues
from each other; and that it fhould be called Nueftra
Senora de la Paz, in memory of the publick tran-
quility recently fettled by the defeat and execution of
Gonzalo Pizarro, and his adherents. With regard
to its fituation, a valley in the country called las Pacafas,
was pitched upon, on the 8th of October 1548, as a place
abounding in grain, and cattle, and full of Indians.
ALONG the valley de la Paz, flows a large river,
but fometimes greatly increaſed by torrents for the
cordillera, about twelve leagues diftant from the city;
but from its vicinity, great part of the country is
expofed to fo cold an air, as hard frofts, fnow, and
hail are not uncommon; but the city itſelf is fecured
from them by its happy fituation. Other parts are
alfo fo well fheltered, that they produce all the vege-
tables of a hot climate, as fugar canes, coca, maize,
and the like. In the mountainous part are large
woods of valuable timber, but infefted with bears,
tigers, and leopards; they have alſo a few deer: While
on the heaths are found Guanacos, Vicunas, and
Llamas, with great numbers of cattle of the European
fpecies, as will be feen in the account of each refpec-
tive province.
THE city is of a middling fize, is furrounded with
mountains, and commands the proſpect of the river.
When the river is increaſed either by rains, or the
melting of the fnow on the mountains, its current
forces along huge maffes of rocks, with fome grains
of gold, which are found after the flood has fubfided.
Hence fome idea may be form'd of the riches inclofed
in the bowels of thefe mountains; but a more remark-
able demonſtration appeared in the year 1730, when
an Indian happening to waſh his feet in the river, dif-
covered a lump of gold, of fo large a fize that the
marquis de Caftel-Fuerte, gave twelve thouſand pieces
of eight for it, and fent it to Spain, as a prefent
worthy the curiofity of his fovereign.
THIS
$58.
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
THIS city is governed by a corregidor, under
whom are regidores, and ordinary alcaldes, as in all
other towns. Befides the cathedral, and the pariſh
church del Sagrario, where two prieſts officiate, here
are alfo thofe of St. Barbara, St. Sebaftian, and St.
Peter: The religious fraternities of Francifcans, Do-
minicans, Auguftines, the fathers of mercy, a college
of Jefuits, and a convent and hofpital of St. Juan de
Dios; together with a nunnery of the order of the
Conception, and another of Santa Tereſa. Alſo a
college of St. Jerom, for the education of youth, de-
figned for ecclefiaftic or civil employment.
IN 1608 the church de la Paz was feparated from
the diocefs of Chuquifaca, to which it before belonged,
and erected into a cathedral. Its chapter confifts of
the bishop, dean, archdeacon, chantor, four canons
and prebendaries; but with regard to other circum-
ftances, being the fame with feveral cities already de-
fcribed, I fhall proceed to the provinces in its diocefs.
I. Biſhopric of the audience of charcas.
La Paz.
THE provinces or juriſdictions in the diocefs of Paz,
are the fix following.
I. La Paz.
II. Omafuyos.
III. Pacages.
IV. Laricaxas.
V. Chucuito.
VI. Paucar-Colla.
I. THE jurifdiction of la Paz, is of no great ex-
tent, and the city almoſt the only place worth notice in
it. In the adjacent cordillera is a mountain of remark-
able height called Illimani, which doubtless contains
immenſe riches. A
A crag of it being fome years fince
ftruck from it by a flaſh of lightning, and falling on a
neighbouring mountain, fuch a quantity of gold was
found in the fragments, that for fome time that metal
was fold at Paz, at eight pieces of eight per ounce.
But its fummit being perpetually covered with ice
and ſnow, no mine has been opened in this mountain.
The fame we have already obſerved of thoſe high
I
moun,
CH. XIII.
1.59
SOUTH AMERICA.
mountains in the province of Quito, Vol. I. all at-
tempts having been rendered abortive.
II. N. W. and almoft at the gates of Paz, the
juriſdiction of Omafuyos begins and extends about
20 leagues, being bounded on the W. by the famous
lake of Titi-caca, or Chucuito, of which a farther ac-
count will be given in the fequel. The air here is
fomewhat cold, fo that it produces little grain; but
that deficiency is abundantly compenfated by the great
numbers of cattle; befides an advantageous trade for
fiſh, carried on in other provinces by the Indians living
on the borders of the lake, who are very induſtrious
in improving that advantage.
III. ALMOST S. W. of Paz, is the jurifdiction of
Pacajes, the greateſt part of which being in a cold
climate produces little grain or fruits; fo that the in-
habitants apply themfelves to the breeding of cattle.
This province is however very rich in filver mines,
tho' but a ſmall part of them are worked; and it is
known from undoubted figns that thefe mines were
worked in the time of the Yncas. Here are alfo mines
of talc, called jafpas blancos de Verenguela. It is of a
beautiful white, and on account of its tranfparency is
transported to different parts of Peru, for making
panes of windows, both in churches and houſes; as
the ftone called Tecali ferves for the fame ufes in
New Spain. In thefe mountains are alſo a great num-
ber of mines of gems, particularly one of emeralds,
well known in Europe, but for ſome latent reaſons
not worked; together with quarries of different fpecies
of marble. In this province is the famous filver mine
Verenguela; and the mountains of Santa Juana, Tam-
paya, and others, well known for the immenfe trea-
fures extracted from them.
IV. ADJACENT to the territories of the jurifdiction
of la Paz, and to the N. of that city is the province
of Laricaxas, which extends 118 leagues from E. to
W. and about thirty from N. to S. The temperature
of
160
BOOK Í:
A VOYAGE TO
4
५
of the air is different in different parts, and fome of
its product are the fame with thofe of Carabaya, by
which it is terminated to the northward. This
whole province abounds in gold mines, whofe metal
is of fo fine a quality, that its ftandard is twenty-
three caracts, and three grains. In this province is
the celebrated mountain of Sunchuli, in which, about
fifty years fince was difcovered, a gold mine remark-
ably rich, and of the ſtandard above-mention'd; but
when in its higheft profperity, it was unfortunately
overflowed; and notwithſtanding prodigious fums
were expended in endeavours to drain it, all the la-
bour and expence, from the works being injudiciouſly
conducted, were thrown away..
V. THE jurifdiction of Chucuito begins about
twenty leagues W. of Paz, and fome part of it
bordering on the lake of Titi-caca, that collection of
waters is alfo called the lake of Cucuito. The extent
of this province from N. to S. is betwixt twenty-
fix and twenty eight leagues. Its temperature is in ge-
neral, cold and very difagreeable, the frofts continuing
one half of the year, and the other either fnow or hail
is continually falling. Accordingly the only efculent
productions of the vegetable kingdom are the Papas
and Quinoas. The inhabitants have however a very
beneficial trade with their cattle, which abound in this
jurifdiction, by falting and drying the flesh.
traders who carry it to the coaſt exchange it for brandy
and wine; and thofe who go to Cochabamba, carry
alſo Papas, and Quinoas, which they barter for meal.
The
ALL the mountains in this province have their filver
mines, and formerly produced largely, but at prefent
are totally abandoned.
THE territories of the province of Chucuito, are on
one fide bounded by the lake of Titi-caca, the mag-
nitude of which merits fome account to be given of
it. This lake lies between theſe provinces, compre-
hended under the general name of Calloa, and is
of
CH. XIV.
161
SOUTH AMERICA.
of all the known lakes of America, much the largeſt.
Its figure is fomewhat oval, inclining nearly from
N. W. to S. E. its circumference is about 80 leagues,
and the water in fome parts 70 or 80 fathoms deep.
Ten or twelve large rivers, beſides a great number of
ſmaller ſtreams empty themſelves into it.
The water
of this lake, tho' neither bitter or brackish, is turbid,
and has in its tafte fomething fo naufeous that it can-
not be drank. It abounds with fish, of two oppoſite
kinds; one large and palatable, which the Indians
call Suchis; the other fmall, infipid and bony, termed
long fince by the Spaniards Boyas. It has alſo great
number of geeſe and other wild fowl, and the fhores
covered with flags and ruſhes, the materials of which
the bridges are made, and of which an account will
be given in the fequel.
As the weſtern borders of this lake are called Chucu-
ito, fo thofe on the E. fide are diftinguiſhed by the
name of Omafcuyo. It contains feveral iſlands, among
which is one very large, and was anciently one moun-
tain, but fince levelled by order of the Yncas; it,
however, gave to the lake its own name of Titi-
caca, which, in the Indian language, fignifies a moun
tain of lead. In this ifland the firſt Ynca Mancho-
Capac, the illuftrious founder of the empire of Peru,
invented his political fable, that the fun, his father,
had placed him, together with his fifter and confort
Mama Oello Huaco, there, enjoining them to draw
the neighbouring people from the ignorance, rude-
nefs, and barbarity in which they lived, and huma-
nize them by cuftoms, laws, and religious rights
dictated by himself; and in return for the benefits
refulting from this artful ftratagem, the iſland has,
by all the Indians, been confidered as facred; and the
Yncas determining to erect on it a temple to the fun,
cauſed it to be levelled, that the fituation might be
more delightful and commodious.
THIS was one of the moft fplendid temples in the
VOL. II.
M
whole
12
1 6 2
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
1
1
whole empire. Befides the plates of gold and filver
with which its walls was magnificently adorned, it
contained an immenfe collection of riches, all the in-
habitants of provinces which depended on the empire,
being under an indiſpenſible obligation of vifiting it
once a year, and offering fome gift. Accordingly they
always brought in proportion to their zeal or ability,
gold, filver, or jewels. This immenfe mafs of riches,
the Indians, on feeing the rapacious violence of the
Spaniards, are thought to have thrown into the lake;
as it is certainly known, they did with regard to a
great part of thofe at Cufco, among which was the
famous golden chain made by order of the Ynca
Huayna Capac, to celebrate the feftival of giving
name to his eldeſt fon. But theſe valuable effects were
thrown into another lake, fix leagues S. of Cuſco,
in the valley of Orcos: and tho' numbers of Spaniards.
animated with the flattering hopes of fuch immenfe
treaſures made frequent attempts to recover them, the
great depth of the water, and the bottom being cover-
ed with flime and mud, rendered all their endeavours-
abortive. For notwithſtanding the circuit, is not above
half a league, yet the depth of water is in moſt places
not less than twenty-three or twenty-four fathoms.
Va
量
​TOWARDS the S. part of the lake Titi-caca, the
banks approach each other, fo as to form a kind of
bay, which terminates in a river called el Defaguade-
ro, or the drain, and afterwards forms the lake of
Paria, which has no vifible outlet; but the many
whirlpools fufficiently indicate that the water iffues by
a fubterraneous paffage. Over the river Defaguadero
is ftill remaining the bridge of ruſhes, invented by
Capac Yupanqui, the fifth Ynca, for tranfporting his
army to the other fide, in order to conquer the pro-
vinces of Collafuyo. The Defaguadero is here be-
tweeen eighty and a hundred yards in breadth, flow-
ing with a very impetuous current under a fmooth,
and, as it were, a fleeping furface. The Ynca, to
over-
CH.XIV.
163
SOUTH
SOUTH AMERICA.
overcome this difficulty, ordered four very large cables
to be made of a kind of grafs which covers the lofty
heaths and mountains of that country, and called by
the Indians Ichu; and thefe cables were the founda-
tion of the whole ftructure. Two of theſe being laid a-
croſs the water; fafcines of dry juncia and totora, fpecies
of ruſhes, were faſtened together, and laid a-croſs
them. On thefe the two other cables were laid, and
again covered with other fafcines fecurely faftened,
but ſmaller than the firft, and arranged in fuch a
manner as to form a level ſurface; and by this means
he procured a ſafe paffage to his army. This bridge,
which is about five yards in breadth, and one and a
half above the furface of the water, is carefully re-
paired, or rebuilt every fix months, by the neigh-
bouring provinces, in purſuance of a law made by
that Ynca, and fince often confirmed by the kings of
Spain, on account of its prodigious ufe; it being the
channel of intercourfe between thoſe provinces fepa-
rated by the Defaguadero.
VI. THE laſt jurifdiction of this biſhopric is that of
Paucar-Colla, whoſe capital is the town of Puno. Its
jurifdiction fouthward borders on that of Chuquito,
and has the fame temperature: confequently is obliged
to have recourſe to other provinces for the greateſt
part of its grain, and efculent vegetables; but abounds
in all kinds of cattle, both of the European and
American kinds. The Indians of the town weave
bags with their wool, and fell them to great advantage.
The mountains in this province contain feveral filver
mines, and among the reft the famous Laycacota,which
formerly belonged to Jofeph Salcedo, and where the
metal was often cut out of the mine with a chiffel;
but its prodigious richnefs accelerated the death of its
owner, foon after which the waters broke in to it; nor
has any labour and expence been able to drain it, ſo
that it is at preſent abandoned. Few of the rest are
worked, the general cafe with almoſt all the filver
M 2
mines
164
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE
TO.
j
mines in this audience, efpecially of thofe in the arch-
bishopric of Charcas, and this diocefs of La Paz.
II. Biſhopric in the audience of Charcas.
Santa Cruz de la Sierra.
The province of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, is a go-
vernment and captain generalfhip: and tho' its jurif
diction is of a large extent, not many Spaniards are
found in it, and the few towns are in general miffions,
comprehended under the common name of Paraguay
miffions. The capital of the fame name was erected
into a bishopric in the year 1605. Its chapter confifts
only of a biſhop, dean, and archdeacon, having neither
canons, prebendaries, or other dignitaries. The ufual
refidence of the bishop is the city of Mifque Poco--
na, eighty leagues from Santa Cruz de la Sierra.
THE jurifdiction of Maſque-Pocona, reaches above
thirty leagues; and tho' the city itfelf is very thinly
inhabited, there are, in other parts of it, feveral po-
pulous towns. The temperature is hot, but not in a
degree too great for vineyards. The valley in which
the city ftands is above eight-leagues in circumference,
and produces all kinds of grain and fruits; and the
woods and uncultivated mountains afford great quan-
tities of honey and wax, which conftitute a principal
branch of its commerce.
THE miffions belonging to the Jefuits in the parts
dependent on this bifhopric, are thofe called Indios
Chiquitos, or little Indians, a name given them by
the Spaniards, on, account of the extreme fmallneſs of
the doors of their houſes. Their country lies between
Santa Cruz de la Sierra, and the lake Xarayes, from
whence the river Paraguay has its rife, and being in-
creaſed by the conflux of others, forms the famous
river de la Plata. It was about the cloſe of the laſt
century, when the fathers firſt began their preaching
in this nation, and fo great has been their fuccefs,
that in the year 1732, they had form'd ſeven towns,
cach confifting of above 600 families; and were then
build-
CH. XIV. SOUTH
SOUTH AMERICA. 165
building others for affembling under the fame laws,
the great number of Indians, daily converted. Theſe
Indios Chiquitos are well made and active; and their
courage has been often experienced by the Portu-
gueſe, who uſed to make incurfions, in order to
carry off the inhabitants for flaves: But the valour
of theſe people has taught them to defift from fuch
inhuman attempts, and, for their own fafety, to keep
within their limits. The arms of theſe Indians are
mufquets, fabres, and poifoned arrows. Though
their language is different from that of the other
nations of Paraguay, the fame cuftoms nearly obtain
here, as among all the other Indians.
+
BORDERING on this nation of Chiquitos is ano
ther of Pagan Indians called Chiriguanos, or Chi-
riguanaes, who have always refufed to liften to the
miffionaries; though the fathers ftill continue to
vifit them at certain times, and preach to them, but
prudently take care to be accompanied with fome
Chiquitos for their fecurity; and thus they make
now and then a few converts, who are fent to their
towns, and there lead a focial life. This generally
happens after fome misfortune in the wars continu-
ally carried on between them and the Chiquitos;
when in order the more eafily to obtain a peace,
and that the Chiquitos may not abfolutely extermi-
nate them, they fend for miffionaries; but foon dif-
mifs them again, pretending that they cannot bear
to fee puniſhments inflicted on perfons merely for
deviating from the rules of reaſon. This plainly
demonſtrates, that all they defire or aim at, is an
unbounded licentioufnefs of manners.
SANTA'Cruz de la Sierra, the capital of this govern-
ment, lies eighty or ninety leagues E. of Plata. It
was originally built fomething farther toward the S. E.
near the Cordillera of the Chiriguanos. It was found-
ed in the year 1548, by captain Nuflo de Chaves, who
called it Santa Cruz, from a town of that name near
M 3
Trux-
166
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
Y
Truxillo in Spain, where he was born. But the city
having been deftroyed, it was rebuilt in the place
where it now ftands. It is neither large nor well
built, nor has it any thing anfwerable to the pro-
mifing title of city.
III. Biſhopric of the Audience of CHARCAS.
El Tucuman.
TUCMA, by the Spaniards called Tucuman, lies in
the center of this part of America, beginning S. of
the Plata, beyond the towns of Chicas, which fur-
niſh Indians for the mines in Potofi. On the E. it
borders on Paraguay and Buenos Ayres; reaches weft-
ward to the kingdom of Chili, and fouthward to the
Pampas or plains belonging to the land of Magellan.
This country, though united to the empire of the
Yncas, was never conquered by them; having, when
Vira Cocha the eighth Ynca had made himſelf fove-
reign in Charcas, fent a deputation of their chiefs,
with a requeſt of being admitted among the number
of his fubjects, and that he would be pleaſed to ſend
them governors, that their country might partake
of the benefits of thofe wife laws, and ufeful im-
provements he had introduced into all the parts of
his empire.
1
THE Spaniards having penetrated into Peru, and
finiſhed the conqueft of far the greatest part of that
empire, proceeded to that of Tucuman in 149, under
the conduct of Juan Nunez de Prado, whom the pre-
fident Pedro de la Gafca intrufted with the conduct
of this expedition. He had, indeed, no opportunity
of diſplaying his military talents; for the inhabitants
being of a mild and eafy difpofition, readily fubmitted;
on which the following four cities were built in that
country; namely Santiago del Eftero, fo called from
a river of the fame name on which it is built, and
whofe inundations greatly contribute to increaſe the
fertility of the foil; it ftands above a hundred and
fixty leagues S. of Plata: San Miguel del Tucuman,
twenty-
:
CH. XIV.
167
SOUTH AMERICA.
twenty five or thirty leagues W. of the former: Nue-
ftra Sennora de Talavera, fomething more than forty
leagues N. W. of Santiago The fourth was called
Cordova de la Nueva Andalucia, and is above eighty
leagues S. of Santiago.
THE territories of this government being of fuch
extent that they reach from N. to S. above two
hundred leagues, and little fhort of a hundred in fome
parts from E. to W. it was judged proper to increaſe
the number of Spaniſh fettlements; and accordingly
orders were given for building two other cities, which
are Rioja, about eighty leagues S. W. of Santiago, and
Santa, between fixty and ſeventy leagues N. W. of
the fame city; together with a village called San Sal-
vador, or Xuxui, about twenty leagues N of Salta.
But all theſe places are ſmall, and built without either
order or fymmetry. The governor, notwithſtanding
Santiago was the firft, refides at Salta; and even the
bishop with his chapter at Cordova, which is the
largeft. The others have their reſpective Corregidors,
under whom alſo are the Indian villages within the
dependencies of their proper cities. But of thefe there
is no great number, the principal part of the country
not being inhabitable, either from a want of water, or
from their being covered with impenetrable foreſts.
This want of inhabitants is alfo greatly owing to the
cruelties and ravages of the favage Indians, in their
frequent incurfions.
THE epifcopal church of Tucuman, which, as we
have already obferved, is in Cordova, was in the
year 1570 erected into a cathedral, and its chapter
now conſiſts of the biſhop, dean, archdeacon, chantor,
rector and treaſurer, who is elected; but has neither
canons nor prebendaries.
THOSE parts of the country which are watered
by the rivers, are fo remarkably fertile in grain and
fruits, that they produce fufficient for the common
confumption of the inhabitants. The woods abound
V
M 4
in
168
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
༢༨.༥༠༠༡
in wild honey and wax, whilft the hot parts produce
fugar and cotton; the laft is manufactured here,
and with the woollen ftuffs alfo wove by the inha-
bitants, form an advantageous branch of trade. But
its great article confifts in the mules bred in the
luxuriant paftures of its valleys. Inconceivable
droves of theſe creatures are fent to all parts of Peru,
the Tucuman mules being famous over thefe coun-
tries, far exceeding all others in ftrength, and docility.
CHAP. XV.
Account of PARAGUAY and BUENOS AYRES; the
two laft Governments of the Audience of
CHARCAS.
IV. Biſhopric of the Audience of CHARCAS.
T
PARAGUAY,
HE government of Paraguay lies S. of Santa
Cruz de la Sierra, and E. of Tucuman. South-
ward it joins to that of Buenos Ayres; and is termi-
nated eastward by the captainſhip of St. Vicente in
Brazil, whofe capital is the city of St. Pablo. Theſe
countries were firſt diſcovered by Sebaſtian Gaboto,
who, coming to the river of Plata in the year 1526,
fail'd up the river Parana in fome fmall barks, and
thence entered that of Paraguay. He was fucceeded
in 1536 by Juan de Ayolas, to whom Don Pedro
de Mendoza, `the first governor of Buenos Ayres,
had given a commiffion, together with a body of
troops, military ftores and other neceffaries; and
afterwards, by his orders, Juan de Salinas, founded
the city of Nuestra Senora de la Affumption, the
capital of the province; but the diſcovery of the whole,
and confequently the conqueft of people who inhabited
ita
CH. XV.
169
SOUTH
SOUTH AMERICA.
it, being ſtill imperfect, it was profecuted by Alvar
Nunez, furnamed Cabeza de Baca, or Cowhead,
whofe eminent fervices, on the death of Don Pedro
de Mendozo, procur'd him the government of Bue-
nos Ayres.
THE only fettlements in the whole extent of this
government, are the city of Affumption, Villa Rica,
and fome other towns, whofe inhabitants are a mix-
ture of Spaniards, Meſtizos, and fome Indians, but the
greateft part of the ſeveral cafts. As the city itſelf is
but ſmall and irregular, nothing better can be ex-
pected in Villa Rica, and other towns and villages.
Its houſes are indeed intermixed with gardens and
plantations, but without any fymmetry. It is the re-
fidence of the governor of the province, who had
formerly under his jurifdiction, part of the towns
compofing the miffions of Paraguay; but a few years
fince they were ſeparated from it, and are now an-
nexed to the government of Buenos Ayres; but with-
out any change in the ecclefiaftical government.
the city of Affumption is a cathedral, whofe chapter
confifts of the biſhop, dean, archdeacon, treaſurer,
and two canons. The parishes of the city of Villa
Rica, and of the other towns depending on this
government are ferved by the Francifcans: but in
the miſſionary towns they are folely under the care
of the Jefuits; and theſe compofing the greater num-
ber of towns in this province, I fhall fpeak particu-
larly of them, ftill keeping to that conciſeneſs I have
obferved in the other jurifdictions.
In
THE miffions of Paraguay, befides thofe in the
province of that name, include alfo a great many
of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Tucuman and Buenos
Ayres. Within a century and a half, the epocha
of their firſt eſtabliſhment, they have been the
means of bringing into the bofom of the church,
many Indian nations, who lived in the blindneſs of
idolatry, and the turpitude of the favage cuſtoms
2
tranf
"
170
A VOYAGE TO
Book I.
-
The firft
tranfmitted to them by their anceſtors.
inftance of this apoftolic zeal was the fpiritual con-
queft of the Guacanies Indians, fome of whom inha-
bited the banks of the rivers Uruguay and Parana;
and others near an hundred leagues up the countries
N. W. of the Guayra. The Portugueſe, then only
intent on the improvements of their colonies, in vio-
lation of the moſt facred laws, did not even after
the converfion of theſe people, ceafe from making
incurfions, in order to carry off the young inhabi-
tants as flaves for their plantations; fo that it be-
came abfolutely neceffary, in order to preferve theſe
converts, to remove into Paraguay, about 12000 of
all ages, and both fexes; a like number of emi-
grants was alfo brought from Tappe, and formed
into communities, living here in peace and ſafety;
and at the ſame time in a decency becoming their new
profeffion.
7
BUT the number of fucceeding converts was fo
great, that continual additions were neceffary to
theſe towns, fo that I was at Quito informed by a
perfon of undoubted veracity, and thoroughly ac-
quainted with fuch matters, that the number of
towns of the Guaranies Indians in the year 1734, a-
mounted to thirty two, and fuppofed to contain
between thirty and forty thoufand families: That
from the increaſing profperity of the Chriftian religion,
they were then deliberating on the manner of building
three other towns, thefe thirty-two being in the
dioceffes of Buenos Ayres, and Paraguay. Befides
the Indios Chiquitos belonging to the diocefs of Santa
Cruz de la Sierra, there were at that time ſeven very
populous towns; and by reaſon of the great reſort
of converted Indians, preparations were making for
building others.
THE Paraguay miffions are on all fides terminated
by nations of idolatrous Indians; fome of which how-
ever live in perfect harmony with them, but others do
all
CH. XV.
171
SOUTH AMERICA.
{
all in their power to exterminate them by frequent in-
curfions; and it is with the latter that the fathers
chiefly employ their zeal, in order to reclaim them
from their inhumanity, by preaching to them the glad
tidings of the gofpel. Nor is this fortitude deftitute
of fruit, the moſt rational receiving with joy the
knowledge of the true God, and quitting their country,
are conducted to the Chriftian towns, where, after
proper inſtructions, they are admitted to baptifm.
ABOUT a hundred leagues from the miffions is a
nation of idolaters called Guanoas. It is with great
difficulty any of theſe are brought to embrace the
light of the gospel, as they are extreamly addicted to
a licentious life; and a great number of Meftizos,
and even fome Spaniards, whofe crimes have obliged
to take fhelter among them, by their ill example
harden the Indians in their contempt of inftruction.
Befides they are fo indolent and flothful, that they
will not take the pains to cultivate the lands, chufing
to live by the more expeditious way of hunting; and
being convinced, that if they embrace the Chriſtian
religion, and ſubmit to the miffionaries, they muſt
labour, they cannot bear to think of a change which
will inevitably deprive them of their favourite indolence.
Many, however, of thoſe who come to the Chriftian
towns to vifit their relations, cannot withſtand the
order and decency in which they fee them live, and
accordingly embrace the Chriſtian religion.
Ir is nearly the fame with the Charuas, a people in-
habiting the country between the rivers Parana and
Uruguay. Thoſe dwelling on the banks of the river
Parana, from the town of Corpus upwards, and call-
ed Guananas, are more tractable, and their induſtry
in agriculture and other rural arts, render them more
fufceptible of liſtening to the preaching of the miffiona-
ries befides no fuch thing as a fugitive is to be found
among them. Near Cordova is another nation of ido-
laters, called Pampas, who, notwithſtanding they
:
fre-
1
+
172
A VOYAGE TO Book I.
1
frequently come to the city, to fell different productions
of the earth, are very obftinate in their opinions, and,
confequently, are not reclaimed without the greateſt
difficulty. Theſe four nations of idolatrous Indians
live, however, in peace with the Chriſtians.
In the neighbourhood of the city of Santa Fé,
fituated in the province of Buenos Ayres, are others.
who abfolutely reject all terms of peace; fo that even
the villages and eftates near Santiago and Salta in the
government of Tucuman have felt the effects of their
daring incurfions. The other nations between thefe
and the Chiquitos, and the lake of Xarayes, are little
known. Not many years fince fome Jefuit miffiona-
ries ventured to vifit their country up the river Pil-
comayo, which runs from Potofi to Affumption; but
their territories being very large, and living a vagrant
.fort of lives, without fixed habitations, the zeal of the
good fathers was fruftrated; as it has indeed on many
other occafions, even after repeated trials.
THE idolatrous Indians, who inhabit the country
from the city of Affumption northward, are but very
few. The miffionaries have been fo fortunate to meet
with fome of theſe in their journies after them, and
prevailed on them to accompany them to the Chriftian
towns, where, without much reluctancy, they have em
braced Chriſtianity. The Chiriguanos, already men-
tioned, alſo refide in theſe parts; but are ſo infatuated
with the pleaſures of a favage life, that they will not
hear of living under laws.
FROM what has been faid, it will eafily be con-
ceived that the country occupied by the Paraguay
miffions, muſt be of a very great extent. The air in
general is moift and temperate; tho' in fome parts, it
is rather cold. The temperate parts abound with all
kinds of provifions. Cotton contributes confiderably
to their riches, growing here in fuch quantities, that
every little village gathers of it annually above two
thouſand arobas; and the induftrious are very inge-
nious
CH. XV.
173
SOUTH AMERICA.
}
nious in weaving it into ftuffs for exportation. A
great deal of tobacco is alfo planted here. But theſe
articles are far lefs advantageous to the inhabitants
than the herb called Paraguay, which alone would be
fufficient to form a flouriſhing commerce in this pro-
vince, it being the only one which produces it; and
from hence it is fent all over Peru, and Chili, where
its uſe is univerfal; eſpecially that kind of it called
Camini, which is the pure leaf; the other, diſtin-
guiſhed by the name of Palos, being lefs fine, and
not fo proper for making mate, is not fo valuable.
THESE goods are carried, for fale, to the cities of
Santa Fe, and Buenos Ayres, where the fathers have
factors; the Indians, particularly the Guaranies, want-
ing the fagacity and addrefs, fo abfolutely neceffary
to procure fuccefs in commercial affairs. Thefe factors
difpofe of what is configned to them from Paraguay,
and lay out the money in ſuch European goods as the
towns are then in want of, in ornaments for the
churches, and the decent ſupport of the prieſts officia-
ting in them. But the greateſt care is taken in de-
ducting from what each town fends, the amount of
the tribute of its Indian inhabitants, which is remitted
immediately to the revenue office, without the leaſt
deduction, except the ftipends for the priests, and
the penfions allowed the Caciques.
THE other products of their lands, together with
their cattle, are made ufe of for the fubfiftance of the
inhabitants, among whom they are diſtributed with
fuch regularity and ceconomy, that the excellent police
under which thoſe people live ſo happily cannot be
paſſed over in filence, without great injuftice to theſe
wife legiſlators.
EVERY town of the miffions of Paraguay, like the ci-
ties, and great towns of the Spaniards, are under a gover-
nor, regidores and alcaldes. That the important office
of governor may be always filled by a perfon duly qua-
lified, he is choſen by the Indians, with the approba-
ton
AS
BOOK I
174
A VOYAGE TO
tion of the prieſts. The alcaldes are annually appoint-
ed by the regidores, and jointly with them, the go-
vernor attends to the maintainance of good order and
tranquility among the inhabitants; and that theſe
officers, who are feldom perfons of the moſt ſhining
parts, may not abuſe their authority, and either thro
intereft, or paffion, carry their revenge too far againſt
other Indians, they are not to proceed to puniſhment
without previoufly acquainting the prieſt with the
affair, that he may compare the offence with the
fentence. The prieſt, on finding the perfon really
guilty, delivers him up to be punished, which gene-
rally confifts in impriſonment for a certain number of
days, and fometimes fafting is added to it; but if the
fault be very great, the delinquent is whipt, which
is the moſt ſevere punishment ufed among them;
thefe people being never known to commit any crime
that merits a greater degree of chaftifement; for im-
mediately on being regiſtered as converts, the greateſt
care has been taken in theſe miffions, to imprint on
the minds of thefe new Chriſtians, a deteftation of
murther, robbery, and fuch atrocious crimes. The
execution of the fentence is preceded by a difcourfe
made by the prieſt before the delinquent, in which he
repreſents to the offender, with the greateſt ſoftneſs-
and fympathy, the nature of his crime, and its tur-
pitude; fo that he is brought to acknowledge the
juftnefs of the ſentence, and to receive it rather as a
brotherly correction, than a puniſhment; fo that
tho' nature muſt feel, yet he receives the correction
with the greateſt humility and refignation, being con-
fcious that he has brought it upon himſelf. Thus the
prieſts are in no danger of any malice being harboured
againſt them; indeed the love and veneration the In-
dians pay them is fo great, that could they be guilty
of enjoyning an unjuft puniſhment, the fuffering party
would impute it to his own demerits, being firmly
per
1
CH. XV.
SOUTH AMERICA.
175
perfuaded that the prieſts never do any thing without
a fufficient reaſon.
EVERY town has a particular armory, in which
are kept all the fire-arms, fwords, and weapons uſed
by the militia, when they take the field, whether to
repel the infults of the Portugueſe, or any heathen In-
dians inhabiting on their frontiers. And that they
may be dextrous in the management of them, they
are exerciſed on the evening of every holiday in the
market-places of the towns. All perfons capable of
bearing arms in every town, are divided into compa-
nies, and have their proper officers, who owe this di-
ſtinction to their military qualifications: their uniform
is richly laced with gold or filver, according to their
rank, and embroidered with the device of their towns.
In theſe they always appear on holidays, and at
the times of exercife. The governor, alcaldes, and
regidores, have alſo very magnificent habits of cere-
mony, which they wear on folemn occafions.
No town is without a ſchool for teaching reading,
writing, dancing, and mufic: and in whatever they
undertake they generally excel, the inclination and
genius of every one being carefully confulted before
they are forwarded in any branch of ſcience.
Thus
many attain a very good knowledge of the Latin
tongue. In one of the courts of the houſe belonging
to the prieſt of every town, are fhops or workhoufes
for painters, fculptors, gilders, filverfmiths, lock-
fmiths, carpenters, weavers, watchmakers, and all
other mechanic arts and trades. Here every one
works for the benefit of the whole town, under the
inſpection of the priests coadjutors; and boys are
there alſo inſtructed in thofe trades or arts, to which
they have the greateſt inclination.
THE churches are large, and well built: and, with
regard to decorations, not inferior to the richeft in
Peru. Even the houſes of the Indians are built with
that ſymmetry and convenience, and fo compleatly and
elegantly
176
A VOYAGE TO
}
BOOK I.
elegantly furniſhed, as to excel thoſe of the Spaniards
in many towns in this part of America. Moſt of
them however are only of mud walls, fome of unburnt
bricks, and others of ftone; but all, in general,
covered with tiles. Every thing in theſe towns is on
fuch good footing, that all private houſes make
gun-powder, that a fufficient quantity of it may not be
wanting, either on any exigency, or for fireworks on
holidays, and other anniverſary rejoicings which are
punctually kept. But the moſt fplendid ceremony is
on the acceffion of the new monarch to the Spaniſh
throne, when the governor, alcaldes, regidores, to-
gether with all the civil and military officers, appear
in new uniforms, and other ornaments, to exprefs
the ardent affection they bear their new fovereign.
EVERY church has its band of mufick, confiſting
of a great number both of vocal and inftrumental
per-
formers. Divine fervice is celebrated in them with all
the pomp and folemnity of cathedrals. The like is
obferved in publick proceffions, efpecially that on
Corpus Chrifti day, at which the governor, alcal-
des, and regidores, in their habits of ceremony, and
the militia in their uniforms, affift: the reſt of the
people carry flambeaux; fo that the whole is con-
ducted with an order and reverence fuitable to the oc-
cafion. Theſe proceffions are accompanied with fine
dancing, but very different from that in the province
of Quito, defcribed in the firft volume; and the per-
formers wear particular dreffes, extreamly rich, and
well adapted to the characters reprefented. In fhort,
a miffionary town omits no circumftance either of
feſtivity or devotion, practifed in opulent cities.
EVERY town has a kind of Beaterio, where women
of ill fame are placed: it alfo ferves for the retreat of
married women who have no families, during the
abſence of their huſbands. For the fupport of this
houſe, and alſo of orphans and others, who by age
or any other circumftance are diſabled from earning
a
>
CH.XV. SOUTH AMERICA.
177
1
a livelihood, two days in the week are fet apart;
when the inhabitants of every village are obliged to
fow and cultivate a certain piece of ground, called
Labor de la Comunidad, the labour of the commu-
nity; and the furplus of the produce is applied to
procure furniture and decorations for the church, and
to clothe the orphans, the aged, and the diſabled
perfons. By this benevolent plan all diftrefs is pre-
cluded, and the inhabitants provided with every ne-
ceffary of life. The royal revenues are punctually
paid; and by the union of the inhabitants, the unin-
terrupted peace they enjoy, and the wiſdom of their
polity, which is preferved inviolable, thefe places, if
there are any fuch on earth, are the habitations of
true religion and felicity.
THE jefuits, who are the prieſts of thefe miffions,
take upon them the fole care of difpofing of the ma-
nufactures and products of the Guaranies Indians, de-
figned for commerce; thefe people being naturally
careleſs and indolent, and doubtlefs without the dili-
gent inſpection and pathetic exhortations of the fa-
thers, would be buried in floth and indigence. The
cafe is very different in the miffions of the Chiquitos,
who are induftrious, careful, and frugal; and their
genius fo happily adapted to commerce, as not to
ſtand in need of any factors. The prieſts in the vil-
lages of this nation are of no expence to the crown,
the Indians themſelves rejoicing in maintaining them;
and join in cultivating a plantation filled with all
kinds of grain and fruits for the prieſt; the remain-
der, after this decent fupport, being applied to pur-
chaſe ornaments for the churches.
THAT the Indians may never be in any want of
neceffaries, it is one part of the minifter's care
to have always in readineſs a ſtock of different
kinds of tools, ſtuffs, and other goods; fo that all
who are in want repair to him, bringing by way of
exchange wax, of which there are here great quan-
VOL. II.
N
tities
178
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
cities; and other products. And this barter is made
with the ſtricteft integrity, that the Indians may have
no reaſon to complain of oppreffion; and that the
high character of the priests for juftice and fanc-
tity may be ftudioufly preferved. The goods re-
ceived in exchange are by the priests fent to the fu-
perior of the miffions, who is a different perfon
from the fuperior of the Guaranies: and with the pro-
duce, a freſh ſtock of goods is laid in. The princi-
pal intention of this is, that the Indians may have
no occafion to leave their own country, in order to
be furniſhed with neceffaries; and by this means are
kept from the contagion of thofe vices, which they
would naturally contract in their intercourfe with the
inhabitants of other countries, where the depravity
of human nature is not corrected by fuch good ex-
amples and laws.
Ir the civil government of theſe towns be fo ad-
mirably calculated for happiness, the ecclefiaftical
government is ftill more fo. Every town and vil-
lage has its particular prieft, who in proportion to its
largenefs, has an affiftant or two of the fame order.
Thefe prieſts, together with fix boys who wait on
them, and alfo fing in the churches, form în every
village a kind of fmall college, where the hours are
under the fame regulation, and the exercifes fucceed
each other with the fame formalities as in the great
colleges of cities. The moſt laborious part of the
duty belonging to the prieft, is to vifit perfonally the
chacaras or plantations of the Indians; and in this
they are remarkably fedulous, in order to prevent
the ill confequences of that flothful difpofition fo
natural to the Guaranies; who, were they not fre-
quently roufed and ſtimulated by the preſence of the
prieft, would abandon their work, or, at leaſt, per-
form it in a very fuperficial manner. He alſo at-
tends at the public flaughter-houfe, where every day
are killed fome of the cattle; large herds of which
are
CH. XV.
179
SOUTH AMERICA.
1
are kept for the public ufe by the Indians. The fleſh
of thefe beafts are dealt out by the prieft, in lots pro-
portionable to the number of perfons each family
confifts of; fo that every one has a fufficiency to
fupply the calls of nature, but nothing for wafte.
He alfo vifits the fick, to fee that they want for
nothing, and are attended with that care and tender-
nefs their ſtate requires. Thefe charitable employ-
ments take up fo great a part of the day, as often to
leave him no time for affifting the father coadjutor in
the fervices of the church. One ufeful part of the
duty of the latter is to catechize, and explain ſome
portion of fcripture in the church every day in the
week, thurſdays and faturdays excepted, for the in-
ftruction of the young of both fexes; and theſe in
every town are not lefs than two thouſand. On fun-
days all the inhabitants never fail to attend divine
fervice. The prieſt alfo vits the fick to confefs
them; and, if the cafe requires it, to give them the
Viaticum; and to all theſe muſt be added the other
indifpenfible duties of a prieſt.
By the ſtrictness of the law thefe prieſts ſhould be
nominated by the governor, as vice-patron, and be
qualified for their function by the confecration of the
biſhop; but as among the three perfons recom-
mended on fuch occafions to the governor, there will
of conſequence be one, whofe virtues and talents ren-
der him moſt fit for the office; and as no better
judges of this can be fuppofed than the provincials
of the order, the governor and bishop have rece-
ded from their undoubted rights, and the provin
cials always collate and prefer thoſe whoſe merits are
moft confpicuous.
THE miffions of the Guaranies are all under one
fuperior, who nominates the affiftant prieſts of the
other towns. His refidence is at Candelaria, which
lies in the center of all the miffions; but he frequently
vifits the other towns in order to fuperintend their
N 2
govern-
1
"
180
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
{
governments; and, at the fame time, concerts mea-
fures that fome of the fathers may be fent among the
heathen Indians, to conciliate their affections, and by
degrees work their converfion. In this important
office he is affifted by two vice-fuperiors, one of whom
refides at Parana, and the other on the river Uruguay.
All theſe miffions, tho' fo numerous and difperfed,
are formed as it were into one college, of which the
fuperior may be confidered as the mafter or head;
and every town is like a family governed by
and affectionate parent, in the perſon of the prieſt.
In the miffions of the Guaranies the king pays
the ftipends of the prieſts, which, including that
of the affiftant, is three hundred dollars per annum.
This fum is lodged in the hands of the fuperior,
who every month fupplies them with neceffary food
and apparel, and on any extraordinary demand, they
apply to him, from whom they are fure of meeting
with a gracious reception.
THE miffions of the Chiquito Indians have a di-
ftinct fuperior; but with the fame functions as he
who prefides over the Guaranies; and the priefts al-
fo are on the fame footing, but have lefs anxiety
and labour; the induſtry and activity of thefe In-
dians, faving them the 'trouble of coming among
them to exhort them to follow their employments,
or of being the ſtorekeepers and agents in difpofing
of the fruits of their labours; they themfelves vend-
ing them for their own advantage.
ALL thefe Indians are very fubject to ſeveral con-
tagious distempers; as the fmall-pox, malignant fe-
vers, and others, to which, on account of the
dreadful havock attending them, they give the
name of peftilence. And to fuch difeafes it is ow-
ing, that theſe fettlements have not increaſed in a
manner proportional to their numbers, the time fince
their eſtabliſhment, and the quietnefs and plenty in
which theſe people live.
THE
CH. XV.
181
SOUTH AMERICA.
THE miffionary fathers will not allow any of the
inhabitants of Peru, whether Spaniards or others,
meftizos, or even Indians, to come within their
miffions in Paraguay. Not with a view of conceal-
ing their tranſactions from the world; or that they
are afraid left others fhould fupplant them of part
of the products and manufactures; nor for any of
thoſe cauſes, which even with lefs foundation, envy
has dared to fuggeft; but for this reafon, and a
very prudent one it is, that their Indians, who being
as it were new born from favagenefs and brutality,
and initiated into morality and religion, may be
kept ſteady in this ftate of innocence and fimplicity.
Theſe Indians are ſtrangers to fedition, pride, malice,
envy, and other paffions which are ſo fatal to fociety.
But were ſtrangers admitted to come among them,
their bad examples would teach them what at prefent
they are happily ignorant of; but fhould modefty,
and the attention they pay to the inſtructions of their
teachers, be once laid afide, the fhining advan-
tages of theſe fettlements would foon come to no-
thing; and fuch a number of fouls, who now wor-
fhip the true God in the beauty of holiness, and live
in tranquility and love (of which fuch flender traces
are feen among civilized nations) would be again fe-
duced into the paths of diforder and perdition.
THESE Indians live at prefent in an entire affu-
rance, that whatever their priests adviſe them to is
good, and whatever they reprehend is bad. But
their minds would foon take a different turn, by
feeing other people, on whom the doctrine of the
goſpel is fo far from having any effect, that their
actions are abſolutely repugnant to its precepts.
prefent they are firmly perfuaded, that in all bargains
and other tranfactions, the greateſt candor and pro-
bity muſt be uſed, without any prevarication or de-
ceit. But it is too evident, that were others admitted
among them, whofe leading maxim is to fell as dear,
་
At
N3
and
182
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
K..
and buy as cheap as they are able, theſe innocent
people would foon imbibe the fame practice, together
with a variety of others which feem naturally to flow
from it. The contamination would foon fpread thro'
every part of their behaviour, fo as never more to be
reclaimed. I do not here mean to leffen the charac-
ters of thoſe Spaniards or inhabitants of other nations,
whofe countries are fituated conveniently for trading
with Paraguay, by infinuating that they are univer-
fally fraudulent and diffolute: but, on the other
hand, among fuch numbers, it would be very ftrange
if there were not fome; and one fingle perfon of
fuch a character would be fufficient to infect a whole
country. And who could pretend to fay, that, if
free admiffion were allowed to foreigners, there might
not come in, among a multitude of virtuous, one of
fuch peftilent difpofitions? Who can fay that he
might not be even the very firft? Hence it is that
the jefuits have inflexibly adhered to their maxim of
not admitting any foreigners among them and in
this they are certainly juftified by the melancholy
example of the other miffions of Peru, whofe de-
cline from their former happineſs and piety is the
effect of an open intercourfe.
THOUGH in the feveral parts of Paraguay, where
the miffions have been always fettled, there are no
mines of gold and filver; feveral are to be found in
fome adjacent countries under the dominion of the
king of Spain; but the Portugueſe reap the whole
benefit of them: for having encroached as far as the
Jake Xarayes, near which, about twenty years ago,
a rich mine of gold was diſcovered; they, without
any other right than poffeffion, - turned it to their
own uſe the miniftry in Spain, in confideration of
the harmony fubfifting between the two nations, and
their joint intereft, forbearing to make ufe of any
forcible methods.
2
V. Biſhop-
CH. XV.
183
SOUTH
SOUTH AMERICA.
V. Biſhopric of the audience of Charcas.
Buenos Ayres.
THE ecclefiaftical jurifdiction of the bishop of
Buenos Ayres extends to all the countries under the
temporal government of the fame name; and this
begins on the oriental and fouthern coaft of that part
of America, and extends weftward as far as Tucu-
man; on the N. it terminates on Paraguay, and is
bounded towards the S. by the land of Magellan.
Its countries are watered by the great river de la
Plata, the diſcovery of which was owing to Juan Dias
de Solis, who, in 1515 having failed from Spain
with two veffels to make difcoveries, arrived at the
mouth of this river, and took poffeffion of it in the
name of the king of Spain. But being unhappily
deluded by the figns of joy and friendship made by
the Indians, he landed, and was immediately killed,
together with his few attendants. The fame voyage
was repeated in 1526 under Sebaftian Gabot, who en-
tering the river, diſcovered an iſland, which he called
St. Gabriel; and advancing further, came to another
river, which emptied itſelf into that of La Plata ;
to this he gave the name of St. Salvador, caufing his
fleet to enter the river, and there difembark their
troops. Here he built a fort, and leaving in it part
of his men, he failed above two hundred leagues up the
river Parana, difcovering alfo that of Paraguay. Ga-
boto, having purchaſed fome ingots of filver from the
Indians he met with, and particularly from the
Guaranies, who brought the metal from the other
parts of Peru, imagined that they had found it in the
neighbourhood of the river, and thence called the
river Rio de la Plata, or Silver River, which has fu-
perfeded that of Solis, as it was before called from
its firſt diſcoverer, whofe memory is ftill preferved by
the little river Solis, about feven or eight leagues W.
of Maldonado bay.
The capital of this government is called Neueftra
N 4
Senora
184
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
h......
The
Senora de Buenos-Ayres. It was founded in the year
1535 by Don Pedro de Mendoza, purſuant to his
orders, which alfo appointed him governor. He
chofe for it a Place called Cape Blanco, on the
S. fide of Rio de la Plata, cloſe by a ſmall river.
Its latitude, according to father Feville, is 34°, 34′,
38", S.
He gave it the name of Buenos Ayres,
on account of the extreme falubrity of the air.
city is built on a large plain, gently rifing from the
little river. It is far from being fmall, having at leaſt
three thouſand houfes, inhabited by Spaniards and
different cafts. Like moft towns fituated on rivers,
its breadth is not proportional to its length.
The ſtreets are however ftrait, and of a proper
breadth. The principal fquare is very large, and
built near the little river; the front anfwering to it,
being a caſtle where the governor conftantly refides;
and, with the other forts, has a garrifon of a thouſand
regular troops. The houfes, formerly of mud walls,
thatched with ftraw and very low, are now much
improved, fome being of chalk, and others of brick,
and having one ftory befides the ground floor, and
moſt of them tiled. The cathedral is a ſpacious and
very elegant ſtructure, and is the parish church for
the greateſt part of the inhabitants; the other at
the farther end of the city being only for the In-
dians. The chapter is compofed of the bishop,
dean, arch-deacon, and two canons, one by com-
pofition, the other by prefentation. Here are alfo
feveral convents, and a royal chapel in the caſtle
where the governor refides. With regard to the ci-
vil and economical government, and the magiftra-
cy, it will be unneceffary to enter into particulars,
they being on the fame footing as thofe of the places
already mentioned.
THE climate here is very little different from that
of Spain; and the diſtinctions between the ſeaſons
are the fame. In winter indeed violent tempefts of
2
winds
}
CH. XV. SOUTH AMERICA. 185
winds and rain, are here very frequent, accompa-
nied with fuch dreadful thunders and lightnings, as
fill the inhabitants, though uſed to them, with ter-
ror and confternation. In fummer the exceffive heats
are mitigated by gentle breezes, which conftantly
begin at eight or nine in the morning.
THE city is furrounded by a fpacious and pleaſant
country, free from any obftruction to the fight;
and from theſe delightful fields, the inhabitants are
furniſhed with fuch a plenty of cattle, that there is
no place in America or Europe where meat is bet-
ter or cheaper. It is the ufual cuftom to buy the
hides of the beaſt, the carcaſe being in fome meaſure
a gratuitous addition; and the meat is always fat
and very palatable. The country to the W. S. and N.
of Buenos Ayres, lately abounded fo greatly in cattle
and horſes, that the whole coft confifted in taking
them; and even then a horfe was fold for a dollar of
that money, and the ufual price of a beaft, chofen
out of a herd of two or three hundied, only four
rials. At preſent there is no ſcarcity, but they keep at
a greater diſtance, and are more difficult to be catched,
by reafon of the prodigious havock made of them
by Spaniards and Portugueſe, merely for the fake of
their hides; the grand commerce of Buenos Ayres.
ALL kinds of game and fish are alfo here in the
fame plenty; ſeveral forts of the latter being caught
in the river running by it; but the Pexereyes are
very remarkable, fome of them being half a yard or
more in length. Both the American and European
fruits come to full perfection, and are in great plen-
ty. In a word, for the enjoyments of life, eſpecially
with regard to the falubrity of the air, a finer country
cannot be imagined.
THIS city is fituated about ſeventy-feven leagues
from Cape Santa Maria, which lies on the N. coaft
near the entrance of the river de la Plata; and its
little river not having water 'fufficient for fhips of
burden
1
186
BOOK I.
A VOYAGE TO
1
burden to come up to Buenos Ayres, they anchor
in one of the two bays on the fame coaft. That
farthest to the eastward is called Maldonado, and is
nine leagues from the above cape: the other bay, is,
from a mountain near it, named Monte-video, and is
about twenty leagues from it.
WITHIN the government of Buenos Ayres, are
three other cities, namely, Santa Fè, las Corientes,
and Monte-video. The laft which was lately built,
ſtands on the border of the bay, from whence it de-
rives its name. Santa Fè, lies about ninety leagues
N. W. of Buenos Ayres, between the Rio de la
Plata, and the Rio Salado, which after running thro'
the country of Tucuman, joins the former. The
city is but ſmall, and meanly built; owing in a great
meaſure, to the infults it has frequently fuffered from
the heathen Indians, who not long fince pillaged it,
maffacring the inhabitants of the city, and thoſe of
the neighbouring villages; and they ftill keep the
country under continual apprehenfions of another
vifit. It is however the channel of the commerce be-
tween Paraguay and Buenos Ayres, for the herb Cami-
ni and Palos. The city de las Corientes, fituated on
the eaſtern banks of the river de la Plata, betwixt it
and the river Paranà, is about a hundred leagues N.
of the city of Santa Fè. Its magnitude and difpofi-
tion are both inferior to Santa Fè, and indeed has no
marks of a city except the name. Each of thefe cities
has its particular corregidor, as lieutenant of the
governor; and its inhabitants, together with thofe of
the neighbouring country are formed into a militia,
which on any appearance of an invafion from the In-
dians, affemble, and have often fhewn a great deal of
refolution in repelling the attacks of their Pagan
enemies. It has already been obferved, that part of.
the towns of the miffions of Paraguay belong to this
diocefs, and with regard to the royal jurifdiction,
theſe miffions univerfally depend on Buenos Ayres;
thofe
CH. XV.
187
SOUTH AMERICA.
thoſe which formerly belonged to the government of
Paraguay having been ſeparated from it.
HAVING thus with the government of Buenos
Ayres, finiſhed my account of every thing worthy
of notice in the audiences of Lima and Charcas;
together with the jurifdictions included in their dio-
ceffes, it now remains only to conclude my de-
fcription of the kingdom of Peru, with an account
of the kingdom and audience of Chili; but the
many objects of importance in it fo well deferves
to be fully treated of, that I thought proper to re
ferve them for the following book; thofe included
in this, as I have mentioned in its place, merited a
much greater prolixity; for from what has been
faid in the first volume of the province of Quito,
fome idea of the difference between the two with
regard to the number of people, towns and villa-
ges, trade and commerce, may be conceived; the
province of Quito having only one diocefs and part
of another; whereas Lima contains one archbishop-
ric, and four bishoprics; and that of Charcas one
biſhopric more than that of Lima. In the province
of Quito only a few mines are worked, and thoſe
to little advantage; whereas the mines of Lima and
Charcas, by their immenfe riches, draw thither great
numbers of traders and induftrious people, and thus
fpread wealth and affluence through the whole coun-
try, by the brifk circulation of trade. It muft how-
ever be owned, that the number of people in theſe
p.ovinces bear no proportion to their extent; and it
is with too much truth faid, that they are in many
places almoſt deftitute of people; for fuppofing a
corregidor to have twenty villages under his jurif
diction; yet if the leaft extent of it be thirty leagues
one way, and fifteen another, they must be very
thin. For draw a parallelogram of that dimen-
fions, it will contain 450 fquare leagues of ground,
and confequently the fhare to each village will be
twenty
}
188
Book I.
A VOYAGE TO
}
twenty two ſquare leagues and a half, This cal-
culation is made from the fmalleft diftances, there
being jurifdictions of a far greater extent; and
others, which, tho' equal in dimenfions, have not
twenty villages. What has been faid of the pro-
ducts and manufactures in each juriſdiction muſt be
underſtood in a general fenfe, not having entered
into many particulars made or produced in fome
towns, and not common to others; as may be obſerved
in the deſcription of Quito. But theſe accounts drawn
from our own experience, and the relations of per-
fons of undoubted veracity, we hope will not prove
unacceptable to the reader, who is defirous of form-
ing a true idea of thefe parts, which for their riches,
fertility, prodigious extent, and many other particu-
lars, merit the greateſt attention; efpecially for the
amazing fuccefs which has attended the propagation
of the chriftian religion, in countries formerly in-
volved in ignorance and inhumanity.
1
*
BOOK.
CH.I. SOUTH AMERICA.
189
BOOK
II.
Return from LIMA to QUITO: Voyage from
CALLAO to GUAYAQUIL, for putting that
City in a Pofture of Defence against the At-
tack apprehended from the ENGLISH Squadron,
under Commodore ANSON. Second Voyage to
LIMA, and from thence to the Iſland of JUAN
FERNANDES, and the Coast of CHILI; with
an Account of that Kingdom, and the adjacent
Sea, and return to the Port of CALLAO.
CHAP. I.
Voyage from CALLAO to PAITA, with nautical
TH
Remarks.
HE time of our ſtay at Lima and Callao was
taken up in the diligent execution of ſeveral
commiffions wich which the Vice-roy had been
pleaſed to honour us, for putting the coafts, and
other parts of that kingdom in the beſt poiture of
defence; that in cafe an Engliſh fquadron fhould
make any attack*, fo a vigorous refiftance might
difcourage any farther attempt of that nature. Hav-
ing made the neceffary difpofitions to the Vice-roy's
fatisfaction, and four men of war which had been
fent at the beginning of the fummer to cruize off
the coaft of, Chili, in order to attack the Engliſh
fquadron at their first appearance, being returned
without the leaft information of any foreign fhips
having been ſeen in thofe feas; and the feafon of
* At this time Spain and England were at war.
the
190
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
the year now inclining to winter, when every one
was of opinion that it was utterly impracticable for
Mr. Anfon and his fhips to get round Cape Horn
that year, if (as indeed we concluded) he had not
already perform'd it; we defired leave, as our longer
ſtay could be of no fervice, to return to Quito,
in order to profecute the original defign of our
voyage. This leave, we, with fome difficulty, ob-
tained; by reafon of the great want of officers
in Peru, and the certain advice the Vice-roy re-
ceived, that the Spanish fquadron, under the com-
mand of Don Jofeph Pizarro, had not been able to
get round Cape Horn. But at length, convinced that
our ftay would greatly retard the execution of his
majefty's particular commands, and confident that
on any fudden exigency he would find the fame a-
lacrity in us to obey his orders, he was pleaſed to
grant our requeſt, and difmiffed us in the moſt po-
lite manner.
THERE happened at this time to be one of the
largeſt merchant fhips trading in the fouth feas, at
Callao, juft ready to fail for Guayaquil, called the
Chaldas. On board this ſhip we embarked on the 8th
of Auguft 1741, and on the 15th of the fame month
anchored at Paita: continued our voyage from thence
on the 18th, and on the 21ft entered the harbour of
Puna. We immediately fet out for Guayaquil, and
from thence continued our journey for Quito, which
we reached on the 5th of September.
THE Courſe generally fteered from Callao to Paita,
is firft W. N. W. till the fhips are paft the Feralones*
of the iſland of Guara. From thence N. W. and N.
W. one quarter northerly, to a latitude a little beyond
the outermoſt iſland of Lobos, or Wolves. After-
wards they ſteer N. and N. E. till they make the con-
tinent within them, and which is continued in fight
*The Feralones are two old walls on the iſland of Guara, and
ferve as light-houſes.
1
till
CH. I.
191
SOUTH AMERICA;
till they arrive at the Port of Paita; being very care-
ful to keep at a proper diftance from Ogujia, which is
very low, and projecting a great diftance into the
fea. Accordingly cautious navigators, after paffing
the iſlands of Lobos, ſteer a north courfe till they get
fight of that of Nonura.
THE land of this whole coaft is low; but there
are two figns which evidently indicate its being near.
Firft the fea-wolves, which are feen near theſe iſlands,
and at three or four leagues diftant from them.
The ſecond is the great flocks of birds all along this
coaft, flying two or three leagues from the fhore, in
queft of food. And tho' fogs are very frequent
here, and fo thick as to hide the land, yet its diſtance
may be nearly known from theſe ſigns in the day time;
but at night more circumfpection is neceffary on ac-
count of the extream lowness of the ſhore. And tho*
the iſlands of Lobos are fomething higher than the
coaft, too much caution cannot be uſed in approach-
ing them.
IT is common in this voyage if the ſhip is intend-
ed to touch at Paita, and has not had fight of the
iflands of Lobos in the day-time, when in their lati-
tude, to lie to all night. But if they do not pro-
pofe to ftop at Paita, proper attention muſt be given
to the courſe, and the voyage continued. If the fhip
be bound to Paita, there is a neceffity for making theſe
iflands, or the continent near them to the N. in order
to avoid being carried beyond the port by the cur-
rents; as in fuch a cafe a great deal of time would be
loft in getting back, both the wind and currents
being contrary.
FROM Paita, the coaft is always kept in fight; but
a careful look out is neceffary in order to diſcover the
Negrilos, rocky fhoals, projecting four or five leagues
diſtant from the fhore, and lying betwixt Paita and
cape Blanco, one of the points of Guayaquil bay. The
winds during this whole paffage are ufually S. but
in
192
Book II.
A VOYAGE TO
in the fummer, that is, from November to May,
fometimes veer as far as S. E. Near the coaft is
a periodical morning breeze, or faint eafterly wind,
which fhifts round to the S. E. or S. S. E. and in
this feafon, at any diſtance from the coaft, the S.
winds are alfo faint; nor are calms uncommon, tho'
they are of fhort continuance; but the Brifas never
reach fo far: and this renders the voyage from Paita
to Callao fo very long in all ſeaſons. For if a fhip
ftretches out to a great diftance from the coaft, the winds,
even within ten or twelve leagues, fhift from S. to S.
W. but if ſhe keeps along the fhore, and endeavours
to perform her voyage by tacking, fhe lofes on one,
what the gained on another. Befides, during the
winter the currents fet ftrongly towards the N. or N.
W. and confequently render the voyage ftill more tedi-
ous. In fummer there is here generally no current, or
if any do fet to the northward, it is fcarcely perceived;
the direction of the current in that feafon being gene-
rally W. This proceeds from the Brifas blowing
from the N. of the equator, tho' they are unable to
change the fet of the current to the S. as would be
the natural confequence, were it not for the re-
fiftance it meets with from the waters agitated by the
S. winds to the fouthward of the equinoctial; but
by meeting each other they run towards the W. There
are, however, fome fhort intervals during the fummer,.
when the currents fuddenly change their direction,
and run to the fouthward, but at no great diſtance
from the ſhore; and in the fame inftantaneous manner
ſhift about to an oppoſite point; and this is the reaſon
why moſt ſhips coming from Paita to Callao in this
ſeaſon keep near the ſhore, and work up to windward,
hoping, by the favourable change of the currents, to
acquire that affiftance which the winds deny.
I
Ar all times this voyage is of a moſt diſagreeable
AT
and fatiguing length; for tho' the diſtance according
to the latitude of thefe ports, be only 140 leagues, a
ſhip
CH. I.
193
SOUTH AMERICA.
ſhip is very fortunate to perform it in forty or fifty
days; and even if after spending that time in conti-
nual labour, fhe be not obliged to return again to
Paita; fuch accidents being very common; and it is
nothing extraordinary to meet with two or three mif-
fortunes of the fame kind fucceffively, especially if
the fhips make a great deal of lee-way, when it is
often a twelve month's talk. They relate here a ſtory
to this purpoſe, that the mafter of a merchant ship,
who had been lately married at Paita, took his wife
on board with him, in order to carry her to Callao.
In the veffel fhe was delivered of a fon, and before
the fhip reached Callao, the boy could read diſtinctly.
For after turning to windward, two or three months,
proviſions growing fhort, the mafter put into ſome
port, where feveral months were spent in procuring
a freſh ſupply; and after another courſe of tacking,
the fame ill fortune ftill purſued him; and thus four
or five years were ſpent in tacking and victualling to
the ruin of the owner, before the ſhip reached Callao.
This misfortune was, in a great meaſure, owing to the
ill conftruction of the fhip; and every other circum-
ſtance tending to obftruct her paffage, the tranfaction
has nothing very wonderful in it.
ACCORDING to obfervations made by Don George
Juan at Paita, in the year 1737, its latitude is 5º 5′
S. It is a ſmall place, having only one ftreet, and
about 172 houſes; and thefe only of Quinchas and
canes covered with leaves; the only houfe built of
ftone being that of the governor. It has a parish
church and a chapel dedicated to our lady of mercy,
and ſerved by a religious of that order. A little to
the fouthward of the town is a mountain, called from
its figure Silla de Paita, or the faddle of Paita. The
foil round Paita is wholly of fand, and extreamly
barren; for befides the total want of rain, it has not
a fingle river for the conveyance of water; fo that it is
entirely deftitute of that neceffary fluid, unleſs what
VOL. II.
Q
is
เ
194
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
!
is daily brought with great fatigue, from Colan, a
town on the fame bay, four leagues N. of Paita, and
near which runs the river Chera, the fame ftream
which waters Amotape. The Indians of the town of
Colan are under an obligation of daily fending to
Paita, one or two balzas loaded with water, which is
diſtributed among the inhabitants by ſtated
propor-
tions. From the fame town Paita has alfo the greateſt
part of its provifions. The nature of the foil, and
the fituation of the place render it extreamly hot. Its
inhabitants, who are about thirty-five or forty families,
and confift of Spaniards, Mulattoes, and Meſtizos,
live chiefly by paffengers going or returning from Pa-
nama to Lima. So that the town owes its whole fup-
port to the harbour, which, as I have before obferved,
is the place where the cargoes of goods fent from
Panama are landed, together with thofe coming from
Callao to the jurifdictions of Piura and Loja.
IN the bay of Paita, and that of Sechura, which
lies a little farther to the fouthern, fuch large quanti-
tities of tollo are taken as to anſwer the demands of
the provinces of the mountains, and part of thoſe of
Quito and Lima. The feafon for this fifhery begins in
October, when great numbers of barks go from Callao,
returning when the feafon is over. Fishing is alfo the
conftant employment of the Indians of Colan, Sechura,
and the ſmall hamlets near the coaft; thefe feas
abounding in feveral kinds of fifh, befides the tollo,
all palatable, and fome delicious.
CHAP.
CH. II. SOUTH AMERICA.
195
CHAP. II.
Account of the Tranfactions at QUITO: un-
happy occafion of our fudden return to GʊA-
YAQUIL.
O
N our arrival at Quito, we made it our firft
buſineſs to join the French company, who
were pleaſed to exprefs a great deal of joy at our re-
turn. Mr. Godin, during our abfence, had finiſhed
the aſtronomical obfervation to the northward, and
tho' Mefs. Bouguer and de la Condamine, had alfo
gone thro' them, yet they ftill purpoſed to repeat
them; for theſe able academicians, who had always
fhewn an indefatigable zeal for the perfection of the
work, were particularly attentive in obferving the
greateſt obliquity of the ecliptic; at which obferva-
tions we alſo affifted; but feveral accidents hindered
them from being carried on without interruption.
They therefore thought it moſt agreeable to their
character, and the commiffion with which they had
been honoured, to ſpend fome more time in aſcertain-
ing this important point, than to leave the country
before their obſervations were compleated. Notwith-
ſtanding their ſtay was attended with fo much incon-
venience and fatigue, they could not think of leaving
undetermined a difficulty, occafioned by a certain
motion which they obferved in the ftars. In order to
aſcertain with the greater accuracy the quantity of the
arch, they divided themſelves into two companies,
Bouguer being at the head of one, and M. de la Con-
damine accompanied by M. Berguin, at that of the
other; the latter, while the geometrical menfuration
was carrying on, applied himſelf with indefatigable
labour, and admirable fkill in drawing maps of the
country, in order to erect the fignals in the moft ad-
vantageous places. He alfo affifted both companies
02
in
196
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK II
in their menfurations of the two bafes, which ferved
to prove the accuracy of the operations. And, laftly,
he was preſent at making the aſtronomical obfervations.
But before the repetition was undertaken, M. de la
Condamine employed himſelf in erecting two obe-
lifques at the extremities of the baſe of Yaruqui, as
monuments of this tranfaction: This fpot having been
the foundation of the whole work. Various were the
fentiments with regard to the infcription proper to be
engraved on them; and indeed the difficulties attend-
ing this particular, feemingly of no great importance,
were fuch, as could not be removed till the affair
was intirely dropt on account of other things of real
concern, and which would admit of no delay. It
was however unanimously concluded, that the whole
affair fhould be referred to his Majefty's pleafure
after our arrival in Spain. Accordingly in the year
1746, the marquis de la Enfenada, equally diftin-
guifhed as a ftatefman, and a patron of real know-
ledge, being at that time fecretary of ftate for the
Indies, fent over, in his majefty's name, the following
infcription.
PHILIPPO V.
Hifpaniarum, & Indiarum Rege Catholico.
LUDOVICI XV.
Regis Chriftianiffimi Poftulatis, Regiæ Scientiarum
Academiæ Parifienfis.
Votis Annuente, ac Favente.
LUDOV. GODIN, PETRUS BOUGUER,
CAR. MARIA DE LA CONDAMINE,
Ejufdem Academiæ Socii,
Ipfius Chriftianiffimi Regis Juffu, & Munificentia.
Ad Metiendos in Equinoctiali Plaga
Terreftres Gradus,
Quo vera Terræ Figura, Certius Innotefceret,
In Peruviam Miffi;
Simulque
រ
GEORGIUS
CH. II.
197
SOUTH AMERICA.
1
GEORGIUS JUAN S. JOHANNIS Hierofolymitani Ord.
Eques, &
ANTONIUS DE ULLOA,
Uterque Navium Bellicarum Vice-præfecti, et Ma-
thematicis Difciplinis Eruditi.
Catholici Regis Nutu, Auctoritate Impenfa ad ejufdem
menfionis Negotium eodem allegati Communi La-
bore, Induſtria, Confenfu in hac Yaruquenfi Planitie
diftantiam Horizontalem 6272 Paris.
Hexapedarum.
5 5 1
726
In Linea a Borea Occidentem verfus grad. 19 min.
25 intra hujus & alterius
Obelifci Axes Excurrentem,
Quæque ad Bafim primi Trianguli Latus Eliciendam
& Fundamenti Toti Operi jaciendum inferviret,
ftatuere.
Anno CHRISTI MDCCXXXXVI. Menfe NOVEMBRI.
Cujus Rei Memoriam duabus hinc inde Obeliſcorum
molibus extructis Alternum confecrari placuit.
"In the reign of his catholic majefty Philip V.
"king of Spain and the Indies; agreeable to the
"request of his moft chriftian majefty Lewis XV.
<<
king of France, and in condefcenfion to the de-
"fire of the royal academy of fciences at Paris,
"Lewis Godin, Peter Bouguer, Charles Maria de
"la Condamine, members of that academy, were,
by the command and munificence of the moft
"Chriftian king, fent into Peru, to meafure the
"terreftrial degrees under the equinoctial, in order
"to obtain a more accurate knowledge of the true
(6
(c
figure of the earth. At the fame time, by the
"command, and at the expence of his Catholic ma-
jefty, were fent, George Juan, knight of the
"order of St. John of Jerufalem, and Antonio de
"Ulloa, both lieutenants in the royal navy, and
"well acquainted with all the branches of the ma-
"thematics: During the whole procefs of this men-
"furation they all equally fhared in the fatigues,
03
hardships,
198
A VOYAGE TO
'
cc
5 5 1
726
BOOK II.
"hardſhips, and operations; and with an unani-
"mous confent determined in this plain of Yaruqui
"a horizontal distance of 6272 Paris toiſes in
"a line whofe direction was N. 19° 25′ 30″ wefter-
ly, and intercepted between the axes of this and
"the other obelifque, as the baſe or fide of the firſt
triangle, and a foundation for the whole work.
"In the month of November 1736. In memory
"of which tranfaction an obelifque has been erected
at each extremity of the faid baſe."
<<
'
We had now been three months at Quito, wait-
ing till Mr. Hugot, inftrument maker to the com-
pany, had finiſhed fome indifpenfible works in which
he was then employed, that he might accompany
us to the place where M. Godin, after finiſhing the
obfervations, had left the inftrument, which required
fome repairs in order for our making ufe of it in
finiſhing our part of the work. But on the 5th of
December 1741, when we were animated with the
hopes of concluding our taſk in two or three days,
the melancholy news arrived at Quito, that Paita
had been pillaged and burnt by a fquadron of men
of war commanded by commodore Anfon; and was
too foon confirmed in all its circumftances, by let-
ters from the Corregidor and other officers of Piura,
giving an account that on the 24th of November,
at two in the morning, the Centurion man of war,
being the commodore's fhip, had entered that har-
bour, and fent her long-boat a fhore with forty
armed men, under the advantage of the night,
whereby the inhabitants and ſtrangers who happened
to be in the place, were waked from their fleep by
the fhocking furprize of an invafion, the firft notice of
which were given by the cries of a negro; ſo that filled
with confufion and terror, like perfons unable to re-
collect themſelves, moſt of them had leaped from
their beds, and fled naked from their houſes, with-
out knowing whether their enemies were in poffeffion
of
CH. II.
199
SOUTH AMERICA.
of the town; or whether by a vigorous refiftance
they might not be repelled: The mind, on fo great
and fudden a perturbation, being but little capable of
fuch reflections.
Nor fo Don Nicholas de Salaza, the accomptant
of Piura, who happened to be then at Paita, on
ſome affairs of his office. This gentleman attended
only by a negro flave, with an equal prefence of
mind and refolution, threw himſelf into the little
fort, built for the defence of that fmall town, and
fired two or three hot towards the place where he
heard the noiſe of the oars. Upon this the long
boat ſtopped; but the fort was obliged to give over
firing for want of hands to affift an officer who had
fhewn fo generous an example of refolution. The
Engliſh, concluding very naturally, that the fort
was alfo abandoned, landed about half a league N.
of the town, to which they immediately marched,
and finding it forfaken, entered the fort, where, for
fear of any furprize, they kept themſelves all night.
But the inhabitants thought of nothing but faving
their lives, and accordingly fled to a mountain,` be-
twixt the Silla and the town, where they concealed
themſelves, except a few flaves, who finding that the
enemy were all retired into the fort, took the ad-
vantage of the night, and boldly returned into the
town, bringing off fuch arms and effects of their
mafters, as the night would permit, hiding in the
fand what they found too heavy to carry up to the
top of the mountain.
THERE was unfortunately then at Paita great
quantities of meal, fruits, and brandy, configned
to the provinces of the mountains, by the way of
Piura; befides other goods depofited in the ware-
houſes to be fent to Panama. There was alfo no
fmall quantity of gold and filver. As foon as day-
light returned, the Engliſh left their retreat, and fee-
ing every place forfaken, they began to enter the
houſes,
G 4
200
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
houfes, which are fo many magazines for goods. It
was not long before they met with a quantity of brandy
and wine, of which, like men whofe appetites are
not to be governed at the fight of plenty after long
diſtreſs, they made a very licentious ufe, and became
fo greatly inebriated, that the mulatoes and negro
flaves, feeing their condition, abandoned their fears,
and became fo familiar with the Engliſh failors as to
drink with them, whilft others carried off hampers
filled with the goods of their mafters, together with
confiderable quantities of gold, which they buried in
the fand. The long boat, however. returned on-
board the fhip, but her chief ſpoils confifted of pro-
vifions; and the men employed in that fervice, regaled
themſelves with a degree of intemperance equal to
thoſe who guarded the fort.
THE inhabitants of Paita, who ftill timorouſly
continued on the mountain, though in want of every
thing, difpatched an expreſs to Don Juan de Vinatea
y Torres, the corregidor of Piura, and a native of
the Canaries, who agreeably to his known charac-
ter of prudence and intrepidity, immediately af-
femb'ed all the militia of that city and its depend-
ancies, and haftened by forced marches, through a
troubleſome fandy road of fourteen leagues to Paita.
The Engliſh had been three days mafters of Paita,
when diſcovering thefe fuccours, and being inform-
ed by the negroes and mulatoes, that the militia of
Piura, headed by a famous general, were coming to
diflodge them from the town, enraged at this, but
wanting courage to defend what they had gained, or
rather furprized, carried off whatever they could,
and took their leave of the place by ungenerously
fetting fire to the houfes; an action which could re-
fect but little honour on the arms of their nation;
but was rather a malicious tranfaction, to revenge
on the poor inhabitants the coming of the militia.
whom they did not dare to face. No body indeed
2
imagined
CH. II.
201
SOUTH AMERICA.
imagined at that time that this proceeding was in
confequence of any orders iffued by the commander,
and it was afterwards known that he was under great
concern for fuch unjuftifiable behaviour.
THE Corregidor of Piura, as he had been very
active in the defence of Paita, fo he loft no time
in fending advice of the defcent to the corregidor
of Guayaquil, that he might put that city in a poſture
of defence; it being natural to fuppofe, that the
Engliſh would alſo make an attempt there, as it had
always been attacked by every enemy who before in-
feſted thoſe ſeas. Accordingly the inhabitants of
Guayaquil were foon in arms, and the beſt meaſures
taken with the utmoſt expedition. But the force of
the enemy being uncertain, no other ſhip having been-
feen at Paita than that which entered the port, the
corregidor and magiftrates applied for affiftance to
the prefident and audience of Quito; who among
other meaſures for fecuring Guayaquil from the rage
of the Engliſh, required us in his majeſty's name, to
repair immediately to that city, and take upon us
the command of the troops, all the jurifdictions hav
ing received orders to fend their contingences; and
to direct the works to be raiſed, and the trenches ne-
ceffary to be thrown up in the places moft advan-
tageous and moſt expoſed.
As affairs of this nature admit of no delay, we
immediately prepared for the journey, and leaving
Quito the 16th of December, arrived at Guayaquil
on the night of the 24th. But the paffage of the
mountains was inconceivably fatiguing; the natural
difficulty and badneſs of the roads, it being the be
ginning of winter, having been greatly increaſed by
the violent rains.
HAVING gone through all the neceffary opera-
tions, and taken the moft proper meaſures to defeat
the attempts of an enemy, and fuch as we had the
pleaſure of feeing approved by the council of war
held
202
Book II.
A VOYAGE TO
held in that city, our longer ftay only hindered the
conclufion of our grand defign, and was of no fur-
ther uſe here, efpecially as it was then certainly
known that the enemy's fquadron had failed for
Manta, the coaſts of which, though in the juriſdic-
tion of Guayaquil, are nearly twenty eight leagues
N. of that city, and confequently to leeward of it.
It was alſo known that the fleet intended to proceed
from Manta to Acapulco. Impatient at the lofs of
time we applied to the fame council of war, who
were pleaſed to grant leave for one of us to re-
turn to Quito, in order to complete the obfervations
ftill remaining, that on any fubfequent exigency we
might be the more difengaged; but at the fame time
thought it neceffary that one of us fhould continue
on the ſpot to act on any fudden emergency. The
matter was ſoon agreed on between Don George
Juan and myſelf, namely that he fhould remain as
commandant of Guayaquil, while I returned to con-
tinue the obfervations at Quito. But before I pro-
ceed, it will not be amifs to give an account of the
tranſactions of the enemy's fquadron in thofe feas,
according to the depofitions of fome prifoners whom
they ſet afhore at Manta.
THIS fquadron as its entrance into the fouth-fea,
befides being difperfed, was in a very fhattered con-
dition; but arrived fucceffively at the iſland of Juan
Fernandes, to the number of four fhips, from fifty
to fixty guns, the Centurion and the Gloucefter, a
frigate between thirty fix and forty guns, and a
victualler. Theſe fhips came to an anchor cloſe to
the fhore, their crews being very much diminiſhed,
and thoſe which remained very fickly. Tents were
pitched, a kind of village built with an hofpital for
the recovery of their men. They arrived at this inland
in the month of June, and the commander was fo
quick in his profecution of hoftilities, that as foon as a
number of failors fufficient to man the frigate were re-
covered,
>
CH. II.
203
SOUTH AMERICA.
covered, fhe was fent out on a cruize; and this being
in the common tract of fhips bound from Callao to
the coaft of Chili, they had the good fortune to take
two or three, all of them richly laden, particularly
the Aranzaza, one of the largeſt employed in thefe
feas. Great numbers of men died on the iſland of
Juan Fernandes, but on the recovery of the remain-
der, and the fhips being careened, they funk the
victualler, and fome time after the frigate, putting
the guns and provifions on board the Aranzaza.
After this the whole fquadron put to fea upon
freſh enterprizes, and about eight or nine veffels fell
into their hands; and between Paita and the iſland of
Lobos, they took a coaft fhip of great value. The
facking of Paita was the laſt act of hoftility they com-
mitted in theſe parts; for the Engliſh commodore hav-
ing procured intelligence of the fhort time requifite to
alarm Guayaquil, and finding that there had been a-
bundantly more than fufficient, prudently abandoned
a defign, againſt which he judged infuperable precau-
tions had been taken; and indeed had he made an
attempt, in all probability thofe fpirits would have
been depreffed, which were fo greatly elevated at
their fuccefs at Paita.
AFTER leaving Paita they fteered for the coaft
of Manta, where they put the priſoners they had
taken in the merchant fhips on board a long-boat,
to make the beſt of their way to the land; the fhips
keeping ten or twelve leagues from the fhore; but
many of the failors, negroes, and mulattoes, who
had nothing to lofe, voluntarily entered with them.
They now determined to 'fail for the Philippines, in
order to intercept the galleon in her return to thoſe
iſlands, and which was to fail from Acapulco fome
time in January. This was doubtlefs the moſt ad-
vantageous ſcheme that could be formed in their
circumſtances. But in this they were difappointed
by the Viceroy of Mexico; who, from the intelli-
gence
204
Book II
A VOYAGE TO
يا
gence fent by the Vice-roy to Peru to all the ports
on the coaſt of the fouth-fea, as well as by expreffes
diſpatched from Guayaquil and Atacames to Pana-
ma, deferred fending the fhip that year; which the
enemy being apprized of, they burnt the Aranzazu,
as they had before the other prizes, and continued
their voyage towards the Philippines, where by a
long perfeverance in a moft tedious cruize they ac-
compliſhed their defigns. For the Acapulco fhip
returning when all the danger was imagined to be
over, fell in with the Centurion, and after a fhort,
though ſmart engagement, was taken.
→
In
BUT to reaffume the thread of the narrative, to
which I hope this has been no difagreeable inter-
ruption. On the 5th of January 1742, I fet out
from Guayaquil for Quito, being the very worſt
time of the year for performing that journey; and
as fuch I experienced it by feveral misfortunes.
one of the rivers we were obliged to ford, the two
mules which first entered were fwept away by the
current, and that which carried my portmanteau was
Joft; and the other, on which an Indian rode and
led the former, fwam with great difficulty to the
fhore, and the Indian faved himſelf by holding faft
by the creature's tail; in which manner they were
carried near a quarter of a league below the ford. If
the travelling up the mountains was not attended
with fuch imminent danger, it was extreamly trou-
bleſome, a ſpace of about half a league, having
taken me up from feven in the morning till feven
in the afternoon, the mules though light falling at
every ftep, nor was it an eafy matter to make them
rife. And foon after the creatures became fo fa-
tigued, they even funk under their own weight. At
length I reached Quito on the nineteenth of the
fame month; but had hardly alighted from the
mule with the hopes of refting myfelf after theſe
dangers and fatigues, when the prefident informed
me,
CH. III.
205
SOUTH AMERICA.
In the
me, that three days before he had fent away an
exprefs, with letters from the Vice-roy, directing
us to haften to Lima with all poffible expedition;
and charging him in particular to provide immedi-
ately every thing neceffary that our journey might
not be a moment delayed. It was therefore no time
to think of reſt; and acordingly after making ſuch
provifions as were abfolutely neceffary, I fet out on
the 22d of the fame month, and a third time
croffed that difficult mountain in my way to Gua-
yaquil, where having joined Don George Juan, who
was included in the orders, we travelled night and
day, with a diſpatch anſwerable to the governor's
impatience, all the towns on the road having re-
ceived orders to keep beaſts in readineſs, that we
might not be detained a moment; and accordingly
we reached Lima the 26th of February.
mean time the Vice-roy had ordered a fquadron of
four men of war to fail from Callao to Panama, for
the defence of that place, which fleet touched at
Paita, in order to gain intelligence of the enemy's
fhips, having orders to attack them if poffible; but,
as we have already obferved, they were failed to the
coaſt of Acapulco. On our arrival the Vice-roy
was pleaſed to exprefs great fatisfaction at our dif
patch, and to honour us with feveral commiffions
fuitable to the exigence of affairs; giving us the
command of two frigates which he had ordered to
be fitted out for the fecurity of the coaft of Chili,
and the iſland of Juan Fernandes, againſt any rein-
forcement coming to the enemy. For though com-
modore Anfon had made no fecret of his intentions
to the priſoners, and they had eagerly publifhed
them, no dependance could be had on informations
given out by the enemy himſelf, and which were
the more fufpicious as he told them openly. Be-
fides it was well known, that this fquadron originally
confifted of more fhips; and we were apprehenfive,
that
}
206
Book II.
A VOYAGE TO
that though the remainder had failed of reaching
theſe feas, yet by perfeverance, and a fecond effort,
they might fucceed.
COMMODORE Don Jofeph Pizarro, had alſo been
difappointed in getting into theſe feas this year,
though he had attempted it in a fingle fhip called the
Afia; but was obliged to put back to Buenos Ayres
with the lofs of one of his mafts, and another was
carried away juft at the mouth of the Rio de la Plata.
Theſe diſappointments rendered it the more neceffary
for the Vice-roy to provide for the defence of the
coaft of Chili, as all fhips muft pafs near it in their
courfe to Peru.
CHAP. III.
Voyage to the Island of JUAN FERNANDES; with
an Account of the Seas and Winds in that Paf-
fage.
A
MONG other precautions taken by the vigilant
Vice-roy of Lima, for the defence of the fouth-
fea, he fitted out, as we have juft mentioned, two fri-
gates for cruizing on the coaft of Chili; and gave the
command of one, called Nueftra Senora de Belen, to
Don George Juan, and appointed me for the other
called the Rofa: they had been both merchant fhips.
employed in thefe feas, all the king's fhips being fent
in the Panama fquadron. They were between fix and
feven hundred tons, each carried thirty guns on one
deck, and three hundred and fifty men, all picked and
expert failors. The fhips were alfo prime failers: fo
that our force was in all refpects fufficient for the
fervice on which it was employed; and, with the af
fiftance of providence, would doubtlefs have anfwer-
ed the Vice-roy's expectations.
2
ON
CH. III.
207
SOUTH AMERICA.
ON the 4th of December 1742, we got under fail
intending to fteer firſt to the iſland of Juan Fer-
nandes. Our courfe was from S. W. one quarter
wefterly, to S. one quarter wefterly, according as
the winds permitted, which were continually between
the E. S. E. and S. S. E. but not always of the
fame ftrength; fometimes fhort calms intervened,
and at others fudden fqualls, but did us no great
damage. This courfe we continued till the 27th
of the fame month, when being in the latitude of
30° and a little more than 15° W. of Callao har-
bour, and the wind at N. W. we altered our courſe,
fteering E. S. E. and E. till we made the iſland
without that of Juan Fernandes. This happened on
the 7th of January 1743, at three in the evening;
the S. point of the inland bearing N. E. one quar-
ter eafterly, and the N. W. point, N. E. We now
continued fteering E. one quarter northerly, and the
next day at eleven in the morning we had fight of the
other iſland called de Tierra, bearing E. N. E.
And in the following night having weathered the
north point, we the next day came to an anchor in
the bay.
DURING our paffage from Callao to the tropic
we had light winds, often interrupted with fhort
calms; but after we had croffed the tropic, they
were more ſettled, ſtronger, and fqually, but not
dangerous; being of fhort continuance. But as I
have already noticed in another part, they always
blow from the S. E. and never from the S. W. till
you are fifteen or twenty degrees W. of the meridian
of Callao. When we concluded ourſelves in the proper
latitude for ſtanding towards the islands, and tound
the wind at N W. we fteered E. in order to reach the
meridian of Juan Fernandes. The wind then ſhifted
round from W. N. W. to W. S. W. and S. and after-
wards returned to its ufual rumbs of S. E. S. S. E. and
S. E. one quarter eafterly. On the 27th of December,
the
208
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
the wind again veered to the N. W. and continued fo
the whole day; the two fucceeding days at N. N. W.
and N. W. but on the 30th veered to the W. N. W.
On the 31ft it ſhifted to S. S. W. and on the 1ſt of
January veered round to the S. S. S. E. and S. E. Thoſe
therefore who endeavour to gain fuch winds, ftand
off from the coaft till they fall in with them; and
this fometimes happens at a greater diftance than
at others; I mean during the fummer; for in win-
ter a different courfe is neceffary as we fhall explain
in the fequel.
THE atmoſphere of theſe feas is generally filled
with thick vapours to a confiderable height: fo that
often for four or five days fucceffively, there is no
poffibility of obferving the latitude. Theſe fogs
the failors call Sures pardos, and are fond of them,
as they are a fure fign that the wind will be freſh
and conftant, and that they fhall not be troubled
with calms. At this time it is very common to fee
the horizon filled with a dark cloud, but of no
dangerous confequence, except freshening the wind
a little more than ufual, and a fhort fhower of rain;
the weather, in four or five minutes, becoming as
fair as before. The fame thing prefages the turbo-
nada, or fhort hurricane'; for the cloud is no fooner
formed on the horizon, than it begins, according to
the failors phrafe, to open its eye, i. e. the cloud
breaks, and the part of the horizon where it was
formed becomes clear. Theſe turbonadas are moſt
common after you are paffed the 17th or 18th degree
of latitude.
NEAR the tropic, that is between the parallels of
fourteen or fixteen and twenty eight degrees, calms
greatly prevail during the months of January, Fe-
bruary, and even March; and in fome years more
than in others; but near the coaft they are not fo
common, on account of the land breezes, which are
always between the S. E. and E. S. E. Formerly,
1
and
CH. III.
20g
SOUTH AMERICA.
:
and even till within thefe few years, the voyage to
and from Callao to Chili, was rarely performed in
leſs than a twelve month; owing to a fear of ſtand-
ing off to a great diftance from the coaft: for by tack-
ing along the ſhore they made but little way; and
confequently laid the fhips under a neceffity of putting
into the intermediate harbours for water and provi-
fions; but an European pilot making his firft voyage
in the ufual manner, obferved that the courfe of the
currents was from the W. and S. W. whence he con-
cluded that winds from thoſe quarters might be found
farther off at fea. Accordingly in his fecond voyage
he ſtood off to a great diſtance, in order to fall in
with thoſe winds, and had the fatisfaction to find that
he was not miſtaken; fo that he reached Chili in little
more than thirty days. This being fo very far
fhort of the ufual term, he was fufpected of forcery,
and ever after called Brujo, a forcerer. From this re-
port, and the evidence of the dates of his papers, per-
fons of all ranks were perfuaded that he failed by magic,
and the inquifition caufed him to be apprehended; but
on examining his journals they applauded his faga-
city, and were convinced that if others did not per-
form the fame voyage with equal diſpatch, it was
owing to their timidity in not ftretching off to a
proper diſtance from the coaſt as he had done. And
thus he had the honour of leading the way in
that expeditious courfe which has ever fince been
followed.
In all this paffage, you have an eaſy fea, the
fwell coming fometimes from the S. E. S. or E. be-
ing the points from whence the wind blows; at others
from the S. W. and W. particularly after you are
ten or twelve degrees from the coaft. And it is only
near the iſland of Juan Fernandes, that you meet
with a hollow fea. The courfe of the waves is there
fufficiently manifeft; for on quitting the coaſt of
Callao, to about fix degrees farther to the S. their
VOL. II.
P
courfe
}
210
Book II.
·
A VOYAGE TO
courfe is to the northwards: but from between the
parallels of fixteen and twenty degrees, their courfe is
imperceptible; while in higher latitudes they run,
with fome force S. and S. W. and with a greater
velocity in winter than in fummer; as I know from
my own experience, having in my fecond voyage. to
Chili, in the year 1744, at the end of October, and
beginning of November, taken the greateſt care, that
the diſtances between the knots on the log line fhould
be 4:7 Paris feet and a half, for meaſuring the fhip's
way; but every day found that the obſerved latitude
exceeded the latitude by account ten or fifteen mi-
nutes. The fame obfervation was made by Don George
Juan, in both his voyages; as well as by the captain,
and officers of the French fhip, in which I returned;
fo that the reality of the courfe of the fea is proved
beyond exception; and in this manner it continues
to the 38th or 40th degree of latitude.
IN the latitude of 34° 30′ and 4° 10' W. of Cal-
lao, you meet with a track of green water, extend-
ing N. and S. and along which you fail above thirty
leagues. Probably it runs to a great diſtance in that
fea, being found in every latitude to the coaſt of
Guatemala; but not always under the fame meridian,
winding away N. W. It is alfo met with in a
higher latitude than that of Juan Fernandes; and it
has alſo been obferved by fhips in their courſe to
Chiloe, or Baldivia.
In this paffage, tho' part of it be at fuch a great
diſtance from the land, we meet with a kind of birds
called Pardelas, which diftinguifh themfelves from all
other fpecies, by venturing fo far from the land.
They are fomething larger than a pigeon; their bodies
long, their necks fhort; their tails of a proper propor-
tion, and their wings long and flender. There are
two forts of thefe birds,, and of different colours, one
parda or brown, from whence they derive their name;
the other black, and called pardela gallinera, but in
other
CH. III.
211
SOUTH AMERICA.
other circumſtances they are entirely the fame. A
fmaller bird is alfo feen in thefe feas, called Alma de
Maeftre; it is white ſpotted with black, and has a
long tail; but is not fo common as the Pardelas :
They are moſt frequent in ſtormy weather. Within
ten leagues of the iſlands of Juan Fernandes, are ſeen
ſome balenatos, or ſmall whales; and at near the fame
diftance, fea-wolves; but the latter feldom go far
from the fhore.
THO' this fea has not been improperly dignified
with the appellation of Pacific, with regard to the
interval between the tropics; yet that particular can-
not with any juſtice be applied to it, if confidered in
its whole extent: tempeftuous weather being equally
common in the latitudes of twenty and twenty-three
degrees in the fouth fea, as in the oceans of Europe;
and in higher latitudes ftorms are more frequent and
violent. I am inclined to think that the firft Spa-
niards gave it the name of the pacific fea, from their
being greatly pleaſed with its ſmoothneſs, and the
gentleness of the winds in their firft voyages; concluding
that it was ſo in every part; but the fury of the winter
ſtorms, and the roughneſs of the ſea, which are equal
to thofe in any other parts, abundantly demonftrate,
that they formed a judgment too haftily.
ALONG theſe coafts and the adjacent fea, the winter
begins at the fame time as at Lima; that is in the
month of June, lafting till October and November;
but its greateſt violence is paſt in Auguft or Septem-
ber. During the whole winter feafon, there is no de-
pendance on being ſafe from ſtorms, which rife with a
fudden rapidity; and in all latitudes beyond forty de-
grees, the winter fets in confiderably fooner, even at
the beginning of April, and is alſo obſerved to laft
longer.
THE winter in all latitudes beyond 20° is ushered
in by northerly winds. They are not indeed fixed like
thofe of the S. though common to the feafon. They
always
Ө
O 2
:
212
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
always blow with great violence; but not always with
the fame degree: being lefs ftrong in the beginning
than in the depth of winter, when their rage ftrikes
the moſt refolute with horror, and raifes fuch enor-
mous waves, that the atmoſphere is crowded with
vapours; and thefe turn to a drizzling rain which
lafts as long as the ftorm continues. It often happens
that theſe violent N. winds, without the leaft fign of
an approaching change, fhifts round inftantly to the
W. which change is called the travefia, but continues
to blow with the fame force. Sometimes indeed this
fudden change is indicated by the horizon clearing up
a little in that quarter: but in feven or eight minutes
after the appearance of this fmall gleam of light, a
ſecond ſtorm comes on; fo that when a fhip is labour-
ing againſt the violence of a storm from the N. the
greateſt care must be taken, on the leaft appearance,
to prepare for the travefia; indeed its rapidity is often
fuch as not to allow time fufficient for making the ne-
ceffary preparations, and the danger is fufficiently evi-
dent if the ſhip has her fails fet, or is lying too.
In the month of April 1743, in the latitude of 40°,
I had the misfortune of experiencing the fury of a ſtorm
at N. which lafted in its full violence from the 29th of
March till the 4th of April. Twice the wind fhifted
to the travefia, and veering round to the fouthward,
returned in a few hours to the N. The first time it
ſhifted to the W. the fhip by the vortices formed in the
fea by this fudden oppofition to the courfe of its
waves, was fo covered with water from head to ftern,
that the officers who were on the watch concluded
ſhe had foundered; but fortunately we had our lar-
board tacks on board, and by a ſmall motion of the
helm, the fhip followed the change of the wind, and
brought too without receiving any damage; whereas
we ſhould otherwife in all probability have been loſt.
Another circumftance in our favour was, that the
wind was fome points to the weftward of the N.
For
CH. III. SOUTH AMERICA. 213
For tho' thefe winds are here called nortes, they are
generally between the N. and N. W. and during their
feafon, veering in fome fqualls to the N. and in others
to the N. W. Sudden calms alfo often intervene; but
if theſe happen before the wind have paffed the travefia,
it returns in about half, or at leaft an hour with re-
doubled fury. Thefe dangerous variations are how-
ever indicated by the thickneſs of the atmoſphere,
and the denſe clouds in the horizon. The duration
of theſe ſtorms is far from being fixed or regular :
tho' I well know fome pilots here will have it, that
the N. wind blows twenty-four hours, and then paffes
to the travefia; that it continues there with equal
violence three or four hours, accompanied with fhow-
ers, which abate its firft violence; and that it then
veers round till it comes to the S. W. when fair wea-
ther fucceeds. I own indeed that I have in feveral
voyages found this to be true; but at other times I
experienced, that the fucceffive changes of the wind
are very different. The ftorm at N. I before-men-
tioned began March the 29th, at one in the after-
noon, and laſted till the 31st at ten at night, which
made fifty-feven hours; then the wind fhifted to the
travefia, where it continued till the 1ft of April with-
out any abatement, that is, during the ſpace of twenty-
two hours. From the W. the wind veered round to
the W. S. W. and S. W. ftill blowing with its former
violence. Hence a fhort calm fucceeded; after which,
it a ſecond time fhifted to the N. where it continued
blowing with its former fury fifteen or twenty hours;
then came on a fecond travefia; and foon after its
violence abated, and the next night fhifted from S.W.
to S. E. Thus the whole continuance of the ftorm was
four natural days and nine hours; and I have fince met
with others of the fame violence and duration, as I
fhall mention in their proper place. What I would
infer from my own experience, confirmed by the in-
formation of feveral pilots, is, that the duration of
P 3
thefe
>
214
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
氰
​theſe ſtorms is proportional to the latitude; being be-
tween 20 and 30 degrees, neither fo violent nor laſting
as between 30 and 36; and ſtill increaſing in proportion
as the latitude is greater:
THESE winds have likewife no regular or fettled
period, the interval betwixt them being fometimes not
above eight days; at others much longer; nor do they
always blow with the fame violence; but are moft un-
certain in the winter, rifing fuddenly when leaſt ex-
pected, tho' not always blowing with the fame force.
In this fea a change of the wind from N. to N. E.
is a fure fign of ſtormy weather; for the wind is never
fixed in the N. E. nor does it ever change from thence
to the E. its conftant variation being to the W. or S. W.
contrary to what is feen in the northern hemifphere.
Indeed in both the change of the wind ufually corre-
fponds with the courfe of the fun; and hence it is,
that as in one hemifphere it changes from E. to S. and
thence to the W. conformable to the courfe of the lu-
minary, fo in the other it changes, for the fame reaſon,
from the E. to N. and afterwards to W.
#
It is an old obfervation among the pilots of this
fea, that a day or two before the N. wind begins to
blow, there is always feen along the ſhores, and about
the ſhips, a fort of fea fowl, called quebrantahueffas,
i. e. offirage, or break bones. Theſe birds feldom
appear at other times. I am little inclined to believe,
much lefs to propagate any vulgar report; but here
I muſt declare, that after repeated obfervations,`in or-
der to diſcover the truth or falfity of this affertion, I
always faw them before every ſtorm I met with here;
and ſometimes even a day before, when there was not
the leaſt appearance of the winds coming about to
the N'; and as the winds increaſed, great numbers of
them gathered about the fhip, fometimes flying round
her, at others fettling on the waves, but always kept
near the fhip, till fair weather returned. It is ftill
more fingular, that they are never feen either on the
A
fea
Lofer
"
CH. III.
215
SOUTH AMERICA.
i
fea or land, except in ftormy weather; nor is it known
where they hide themſelves when it is fair, that they
ſhould ſo immediately cover, as it were the fea, when
their natural instinct informs them of the approach of
a N. wind.
THIS bird exceeds the ſize of a large duck, has a
fhort thick arched neck, with a large head, and a
thick but ſhort bil, a ſmall tail, a rifing back, large
wings, and ſmall legs. They are by their plumage,
divided into two different kinds, one being white, ſpot-
ted with dark brown, and the upper part of its wings
entirely of the latter colour: the breaft of the other,
together with the infide of the wings, the whole
head, and the lower part of the neck is white; but
the back, the upper parts of the wings and neck of
a very dark brown, and are hence called lamo prieto,
black-backs. The laft kind are, by the pilots, ac-
counted the moſt certain fign, the others being often
feen without any alteration of weather immediately
fucceeding. I well knew a pilot here, who was a
native of Callao, a man of indefatigable curiofity and
exactneſs, never omitting to infert in his journals the
moſt minute circumftances. His name was Bernardo
de Mendofa, and with him theſe fowls were confider-
ed as fo fure a fign, that when he was in any of theſe
ports, and his fhip ready to put to fea. it was his
conftant cuſtom to take a walk on the fhore, to ſee
whether he could perceive any of them in the
offing; and if he did, he continued in the harbour
till the tempeft was over; and he affured me, that his
conforming to this obfervation had been of the
greateſt advantage to him; relating, in confirmation
of his opinion, that being once at Baldivia, the
governor fo far from regarding his apprehenfions
from fuch prefages, turned them into ridicule, and
infifted on his putting to fea; but was foon convinced
that theſe omens were not chimeras, for the veffel was
hardly out of the harbour when a ftorm at N. came
P 4
on
216
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
1
on with fuch violence, that it was with the utmoſt
difficulty fhe was faved from being wrecked in that
bay; and this would infallibly at laſt have been the con-
ſequence had the ftorm continued fome time longer;
for even when the wind abated, they found it hardly
poffible to carry her into the harbour to repair the
damages fhe had received.
OTHER obfervations relating to thefe northerly
winds are, that they always blow when the fures are
in their ftrength, in the higher latitudes, and alfo
between the parallel of 20° and that of Panama, it
being then winter in thofe climates; and are alſo
found in latitudes beyond 20" but never nearer to
the equinoctial. Another obfervation is, that during
the time of the Brifas, between Panama and the equi-
noctial, theſe winds are never felt in any part of the
pacific fea, the S. winds alone prevailing there.
Laſtly, it is obferved that within thirty or forty
leagues of the coaft of Chili, while one part is agitated
with ftorms at N. the S.winds freſhens in another. This,
however fingular it may appear, is no more than what
was experienced by the three fhips, Eſperanza, Belen,
and Rofa, which being at the mouth of the bay of
conception, the latter took her leave of them and bore
away, with a freſh gale at S. to Valparaifo, whilft the
others who fteered for the iſlands of Juan Fernandes,
were overtaken in their paffage by a ftorm at N.
As in fummer the S. winds generally ſhift between
the S. S. E. and E. S. E. fo, in winter, they continue
for fome time between the S. W. and S. confequently
there is a neceffity, in the latter feafon, to ftand out
to fuch a great diftance from the coaft in queft of
them as muſt be done in fummer.
f
CHAP.
CH. IV. SOUTH AMERICA.
217
$
CHA P. IV.
Account of the islands of JUAN FERNANDES:
Voyage from thofe Iflands to SANTA Maria,
and from thence to the Bay of CONCEPTION:
THE
HE iſlands of Juan Fernandes, which, on ac-
count of their fituation, belong to the kingdom
of Chili, are two in number. One as lying farther
to the W. is diſtinguiſhed by the epithet de Afuera;
and the other as nearer the land, or to the eastward,
is called la de Tierra. The former, which is fome-
thing above a league in length, is nearly of an oval
figure, and the land very high, fo that it has the ap-
pearance of a round mountain; and its fteepneſs on
all fides renders it every where almoſt inacceffible.
Several large caſcades tumble from its fummit, and
the water of one of them, after a fucceffion of long
falls among the rocks on the S. W. fide of the iſland,
precipitates itſelf into the fea, with fuch amazing im-
petuofity, that its froth may be feen at three leagues
diftance. The longitude of this iſland, according to
the reckoning of Don George Juan, admitting the
currents to ſet towards the S. W. is 3° 20′ W. from the
meridian of Callao; but according to my computation,
3° 27' By the coaft we fteered from the meridian
de Afuera till we reached la de Tierra, we concluded
the diſtance between thofe islands to be thirty four
leagues.
THE inland de Tierra, which is about four hundred
and forty leagues to the N. of Cape Horn, is between
three or four leagues from E. to W, which is its
greateſt length. It is for the moſt part high land,
but not deftitute of fome plains, though theſe are
part of the mountains themſelves. Its valleys are
full of trees, and fome of them of excellent timber.
Here is likewife the piemento tree refembling the
Chiapa
218
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
Chiapa in new Spain. The plains and little hills
produce a fort of ftraw, resembling that of oats,
and growing higher than the ufual ftature of a man.
The water, of which feveral ftreams fall from the
eminences into the fea, is very light, creates an ap-
petite, and, among other medicinal qualities, is ex-
cellent againſt indigeftions. Here are many dogs of
different fpecies, particularly of the greyhound kind;
and alfo a great number of goats, which it is very
difficult to come at, artfully keeping themſelves a-
mong thoſe crags and precipices, where no other
animal but themfelves can live. The dogs owe their
origin to a colony fent thither not many years ago,,
by the preſident of Chili and the vice-roy of Peru,
in order totally to exterminate the goats; that any
pirates, or fhips of the enemy might not here be
furniſhed with provifions. But this fcheme has
proved ineffectual, the dogs being incapable of pur-
fuing them among the faftneffes where they live,
thefe animals leaping from one rock to another with
furpriſing agility. Thus far indeed it has anſwered
the purpoſe; for fhips cannot now fo eaſily furniſh
themſelves with provifions here, it being very diffi-
cult to kill even a fingle goat.
VERY few birds frequent this ifland, and though
we found feveral white feathers on the ground, and
alfo parts of carcaffes which feemed to have been
gnawed by the dogs, we faw but very few flying,
and thoſe wholly black. It is not indeed improba-
ble, but theſe iſlands may be the winter retreats of
fome kinds of birds, which on the approach of fum-
mer remove to another climate.
In this inland are mountains of a great height.;
and the fides of thofe towards the N. are covered
with trees of good timber; but few or none are ſeen
on thoſe of the S. part, except in the breaches and
valleys; owing doubtlefs to the piercing violence of
the S, winds, which deftroys them or checks their
growth.
CH. IV.
219
SOUTH AMERICA.
growth. On the other hand, every part is cover'd with
tall grafs or ſtraw, already mentioned. Among the
various forts of trees with which the iſland is decorated,
there are none of the American fruit trees; owing to
the coldness of the climate, which is increaſed by the
violence of the winds, fo that even the heats of fum-
mer are moderate.
In this iſland are three harbours or bays; but thoſe
on the W. and E. fides have only water fufficient for
fmall veffels; fo that the only one proper for large
fhips is that on the N. or rather N. E. fide of the
inland. The latter, which is properly called Juan Fer-
nandes, conſiſts of a bay formed by the coaft, but
expoſed to the N. and N. E. winds; fo that in winter
no fhip can lie fafely in it; and even in fummer, it
is not free from danger, on account of the great
depth of water; for within the diftance of a cable's
length or two from the fhore, it has fifty fathom;
and growing deeper as the diſtance increaſes. To this
muſt alſo be added the badneſs of the ground, which
being of fand, and a tenacious mud, mixed with
fhells and gravel, the cables are greatly rubbed by it;
and confequently the anchorage rendered unfafe. The
ſhips are alſo expofed to continual fqualls caufed by
the Sures, which produce a very troubleſome fea:
violent currents likewife fet into the bay and form
dangerous eddies. Lastly, the fteepness of the coaſt
renders it very difficult to be approached on ac-
count of the dafhing of the waves againſt it; and
accordingly the only ships that put into this port are
fuch as belong to pirates or the enemy; this iſland
being the fole refuge for them in the fouth feas. And
they expoſe themſelves to thefe dangers, merely
through the neceffity of taking in water and wood,
refreſhing their crews, and furniſhing themfelves
with fish, which is caught here in great abundance,
THESE foreign fhips, which in order to refreſh
their crews after the fatigues of fo long a voyage,
2
and
220
Book II.
A VOYAGE TO
1
j
and the dangers of weathering Cape Horn, make
for the harbour of Juan Fernandes, are very careful
to ſecure themfeves againſt the above mentioned
dangers, and therefore fail up to the fartheft part of
the bay, where they moor with an anchor in the
water, and another on the S. W. fhore. But even
this precaution is not fometimes fufficient to fecure
them, as appears from the wrecks of three fhips;
two of which have been long there, but the other
of a more recent date.
THE iſland de Afuera is every where prodigious.
high land, and the fhores fo fteep and craggy, as to
afford no convenient landing place; which, toge-
ther with its having no harbour, prevents all ſhips,
whether thofe of the enemy, or the country from
touching at it.
THE fea all round the iſland de Tierra may be
faid to be filled with fea-wolves, of which there
are obſerved to be three principal fpecies; the firſt
are ſmall, not being above a yard in length, and
their hair a dark brown: thofe of the fecond are
about a toiſe and a half in length, and of a greyish
brown colour and thofe of the third are in ge-
neral two toiſes in length, and the hair of a pale
afh-colour. The head of theſe creatures is too
fmall in proportion to the reft of their body, and
terminates in a fnout; which bearing a great re-
femblance to that of a wolf, they have acquired
the name. The mouth is proportioned to the head
but the tongue is very thick and almoft round.
They have a row of large pointed teeth in each
jaw, two thirds of which are in alveoli or ſockets
but the others, being the moſt hard and folid, are
without them. This threatening appearance is
heightned by whiſkers like thofe of cats, or rather
tigers. Their eyes are fmall; and their ears, from
the root to the extremity, not above fix or eight
lines in length, and of a proportional breadth. Their
ذا
noftrils
CH. IV.
221
SOUTH AMERICA.
1
}
noftrils are alſo very ſmall; and the only parts de-
ſtitute of hair, thefe having a glandulous membrane
like the fame part in dogs. This creature has two
fins, which ferve them both for fwimming in the
water, and for walking on the ground. The tail,
which is every where equally cartilaginous, is of a
length proportional to the body, but much thicker
than thoſe of the generality of fish. They carry it
horizontally; fo that by inverting the laft vertebræ,
where the articulations are more flexible than in
other parts, they form of it a kind of hind feet;
and at the fame time the fins helping them before,
they walk without trailing the body along the ground.
A remarkable particular in the formation of this am-
phibious creature is, that in both the fins and the ex-
tremity of the tail there are protuberances reſembling
fingers, they are fmall pones or cartilages inclofed
within thofe callous membranes which cover the fins
and tail. Theſe fingers they can expand ſo as to
cover the whole breadth of the fin; and thus form
as it were the fole to tread upon. At the end of
each is a nail of about two lines in length, and half
a line in breadth.
AMONG the feveral articulations in the fins are
two very remarkable, one at the junction of the
Omoplata, where it forms a kind of ſhoulder, and
the other at the extremity of the fin, where the
fingers are connected. The fame economy is ob-
ferved in the tail; and thus they are adapted to an
amphibious life: accordingly, tho' not with a cele-
rity equal to that of quadrupeds, they climb up
ſteep rocks of a height one would think them imprac-
ticable to fuch creatures, as they are abfolutely fo to
men; and come down again with the fame eafe, not-
withſtanding their great bulk and fatnefs, which is
fuch in the larger ſpecies, that their diameter at the
fins is little fhort of a yard and a half.
THEIR organs of generation are placed at the lower
extremity
222
A VOYAGE όχ
TO Book II.
extremity of the belly, and at the time of coition,
the male and female place themfelves on their tails
with their faces inward, embracing each other with
their fins, which, on this occafion, fupply the place of
arms. The female brings forth and fuckles her young
in the fame manner as terreftrial creatures; but has
never above one or two at a time.
THE largeft fpecies are by fome called fea lions,
but in theſe feas their general name is Lobos de
Aceyte, or oil wolves; becauſe when they move they
appear like a ſkin full of oil, from the motion of the
vast quantity of fat or blubber of which their enor-
mous body confifts. And tho' oil is made from all
the fpecies, none yield it in proportion to thefe; in-
deed they confift of little elfe. I was once entertained
with a particular circumftance relating to this fpecies.
A failor having wounded one, it immediately plunged
itfelf into the fea; but had hardly tinged the water
with its blood, when it was furrounded in an inftant
by fhoals of the other two fpecies, who attacked
and devoured it in a few minutes, which was not
the caſe with the other ſpecies; which, when wound-
ed, though they alfo plunged into the water, yet
the fight of their blood had no effect on others; nor
were they ever attacked. They are mifchievous, and
their bite the more dangerous, as they never let go
their hold; but they are heavy, torpid, and fluggiſh;
nor can they turn their heads without great difficulty.
They were fo far from avoiding our men, that they
were obliged to ftrike them with fticks to make
them move out of their way. The cry of their
young very nearly reſembles the bleating of a fheep;
but when they all join, as it were in concert, the
noife is infupportable. They are the chief food of
the dogs, who after killing them, take off their
fkin with great dexterity. In their attack, they
aim always at the throat; and when they have de-
ftroyed the creature, they tear the fkin all round
the
CH. IV.
223
SOUTH AMERICA.
the neck; then feizing it by the head, and put-
ting their fore-feet between the fkin and the fleſh,
they ſtrip it entirely'off, and then devour the carcaſe.
THE largeft kind, as we have already obferved,
are, by the failors, called fea lions, the hair of the
neck diftinguiſhing them from the others, and has
ſome reſemblance to a mane, though not much
longer than that on the other parts of the animal;
but as their whole body has a greater fimilarity to that
of the wolf, and being entirely like the other fpe-
cies, the name of fea wolf, feems to me more
proper than that given them by the feamen.
ALL theſe kinds of fea-wolves, have fo tender a
fenſation at the extremity of their noftrils, that tho'
they will bear many wounds in other parts of the body,
the flighteſt ſtroke on this diſpatches them; and that
they are fenfible of it is evident from their making
it their chief care to defend that part from any violence
A GREAT fingularity is alſo obfervable in the dogs
of this ifland, namely that they never bark. We
caught fome of them, and brought them on board;
but they never made any noife till joined with fome
tame dogs, and then indeed they began to imitate
them, but in a ftrange manner, as if learning a thing
not natural to them.
ร
THE iflands of Juan Fernandes abound greatly in
fish; among which are two fpecies, not obferved in
any other part of this vaft fea. One is the cod, which,
tho' not abfolutely like that of Newfoundland, the
difference is very minute, either with regard to colour,
form, tafte, and even the fmall fcales obfervable on that
fish. They are of different fizes, but the largeſt three
or four feet in length.
THE other fpecies is a fish refembling the tollo in
fhape, but much more palatable. From the fore
part of each of the two fins on its back, grows a
kind of triangular fpur, a little bent, but round near
the back, and terminating in a point. It has a fine
glofs, and the hardness of a bone. At the root of it
is
224
VOYAGE TO Book II.
A A VOY
is a foft ſpongy fubftance. This fpur or bone, for it
reſembles both, is ſuch a prefent remedy for the tooth-
ach, that the point of it being applied to the part
affected, it entirely removes the pain in half an hour.
The first account I had of this fingular virtue was from
a Frenchman, who was my pilot; but as reaſon
would not permit me to give credit, without expe-
rience, to a circumftance feemingly fo void of proba-
bility, the affeverations of the man increafed my de-
fire of putting it to the proof, which I did feveral
times, and always with fuccefs. I did not fail to
communicate a difcovery of fuch great benefit; and
accordingly ſeveral of my acquaintance, who laboured
under that excruciating pain, made trial of it, and
found from it the fame happy effects; with this par-
ticular circumſtance, that foon after the application of
the bone to the part affected, it became infenfible of
pain, a drowſineſs fucceeded, and they awaked free
from the torture. I obferved that the fpongy fubftance
at the root, during the operation, became gradually in-
flated, and fofter than in its natural ftate, which
could not be effected folely by the moiſture of the
mouth, the part put into it being compact, hard, and
fmooth as ivory. I am therefore inclined to think that
it has an attractive virtue, which extracts the morbific
humour, and collects it in the root. The common
length of theſe anodyne fpurs or bones is two inches
and a half, of which one moiety, together with the
root, is within the body of the fish. Each face of the
triangle is about four lines in breadth. They are
taken in the fame plenty as the others.
THE abundance of fifh about theſe iſlands is fuch,
that two hours fiſhing in the morning, and as many
in the evening, with only fix or eight nets, pro-
cured not only a fufficiency for all the fhip's company,
but a confiderable quantity remained for falting.
The chief kinds are cod, berrugates, the fpur fifh,
ſole, turbet, jureles, and lobſters; befides an infinite
number
}
CH. IV.
225
SOUTH AMERICA:
number of ſmall fish, which covered the water: a
circumftance the more furprizing, as there are fuch
multitudes of fea wolves all along the coaft, which live
on nothing elſe. For tho' there is very little fifhing
near theſe iſlands, yet doubtleſs the conſtant ravages of
fuch enormous creatures, may be thought at leaſt equal
to the capture of a large fifhery.
Theſe ſeveral ſpecies are all fo delicate and palatable,
that the epicure would be at a lofs which to prefer.
The lobfters are often half a yard in length, and are
taken even with greater eafe than the others. They
are of an exquifite tafte, tho' the meat is fomething
hard. The berrugate is a large ſcaley fiſh.
WE continued at anchor near this ifland till the
22d of January, during which time, we reconnoitred
every part of it, and particularly viſited the place where
the Engliſh had erected their tents, in order to diſco-
ver any private fignal they might have left for the in-
formation of any other fhips that fhould afterwards
touch at this ifland. The prefident of Chili had,
with the fame view, fent a fhip hither fome months
before our arrrival; but all they met with was two
bottles, in each of which was a writing in cypher; and
all we difcovered were the piquets and poles of the
tents; with their ſmall wooden bridges for croffing
the breaches, and other things of that kind. Both our
frigates having taken in water and wood, we failed at
three in the afternoon for the iſland of Santa Maria,
which we made on the 5th of February, and after
carefully furveying it on all fides, continued our
courfe till half an hour after ſeven of the fame day,
when we came to an anchor at Puerto Tome, on the
E. fide of the bay of Conception.
Ar our departure from the iſland of Fernandes, we
ſteered firſt E. one quarter foutherly, and the winds
continuing between the S. and S. E. we tacked on
the 23d and fteered between the W. S. W. and S.
S. W. but on the 27th being in the latitude of
VOL. II.
Q
35°
33′ 50″
1
226
BOOK II.
AVOYAGE TO
33′ 30″ S. latitude, and a degree W. of the meri-
dian de Afuera de Juan Fernandes, we obferved the
winds to fhift from S. to S. W. accordingly we al-
tered our courſe, fteered E. and E. S. E. till the 31ft
day, when we found ourſelves in the latitude of 36°
23′ and about fifteen or twenty leagues N. W. of the
bay of Conception. But the weather, which had been
the fame alfo the day preceding, was fo hazy, that we
could not fee the other frigate. Sometimes indeed
we difcerned the colours, but without having any
fight either of the hull or maft. This was however
fufficient to affure us that they were within half a
cannon fhot of each other. This, and our being
fomething to leeward of the bay, obliged us to ftand
to fome diſtance off to fea; and thus we kept along
the coaft without venturing to approach it till the 5th,
when at half an hour after nine in the morning, the
weather cleared up, and gave us fight of Cape Car-
nero, bearing S. S. E. ten or twelve leagues; and
the middle part of Santa Maria, N. E. one quarter
northerly. We crowded fail towards the latter, and
at eleven the frigates lay to. Cape Rumena bearing
S. one quarter easterly diſtance four leagues, and
Cape Lavapies E. one quarter N. E. diftance two
leagues. The S. point of the iſland of Santa Maria,
bore N. E. four leagues diftant, the N. point of the
fame iſland N. N. E. and a large rock without, N.
one quarter eafterly. Here we fent our long boat
with orders to go betwixt the iflands and the conti-
nent, and take a furvey of it, and then join us in Con-
ception Bay. Accordingly the frigates got under fail
at twelve at noon, with a fresh gale at S. S. E. and
foon after came to an anchor in the faid bay..
#
DON George Juan, from his reckoning concluded
that the iſland of Santa Maria, which lies in 37° 3′
Ş. latitude, was 7° 10′ E. of the iſland de Afuera de
Juan Fernandes, Whereas I differed 14′ from him,
making it only 6° 56′.
"
To
CH. IV.
227
SOUTH AMERICA;
་
To the N. W. of this iſland, at the diſtance of a
league and a half, is a lofty fteep rock, with ſeveral
fmaller at its foot; and one league and a half farther
to feaward, alſo on the N. W. fide of the iſland,
is a fhoal, which, though we at this time faw no
breakers on it, we took care to keep at a proper di-
ſtance. And in my fecond voyage in the year 1744s
I had a clear view of it, for I not only faw the breakers,
it being then low water, and the fea running high,
but alſo a reef of rocks at the water's edge. The
country pilots have affured me, that by fteering in the
middle between this fhallow and the rock, there is a
very fafe channel, having in moſt parts fifty or ſixty
fathom water.
In my fecond voyage above-mentioned, on board a
IN
French frigate called La Delivrance, in the latitude of
36° 54′ and 2° 24′ W. of the iſland of Santa Maria,
about half an hour after making our obfervations, we
unexpectedly found ourſelves in a track of thick
water of a yellowish colour; which naturally occa-
fioning a great furprize, we ftarted from the table,
being then at dinner, and haftened up to the quar-
ter deck. It was now too late to put the ſhip about;
fhe being in the very center of it. This fhoal, as it
appeared to us, ftretched near two leagues from N.
to S. and was about fix or eight hundred toifes
over from E. to W. The colour of the water was
of fo deep a yellow, that after providence had happily
carried us through it, we could eaſily diſtinguiſh it at
a confiderable diſtance. I must own our confternation
was fuch from our concluding we were on a fhoal, as
there was all the appearance of it, that we had no
thoughts of bringing the frigate to, till we had got
our founding line in order. In fome parts the water
was of a deeper yellow, as being more fhallow. In
others we could perceive rays of fea or green water,
intermixed with that of the fhoal. No chart has
taken any notice of it; nor was it indeed before known
Q 2
to
228
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
ви
to any of the pilots of theſe feas, as they themſelves
acknowledged, notwithſtanding their repeated voyages.
We fhould therefore have been guilty of a great in-
difference with regard to the public fafety, had we
neglected to have given this account of it.
THE general winds between the islands of Juan
Fernandes and this place, are the fame as thofe which
reign in the gulph; and which have been already de-
fcribed; but the currents are different, fetting N.
W. and this becomes the more perceivable in pro-
portion as you approach nearer to the coaft. From the
inland de Tierra de Juan Fernandes eastward, the
water is greeniſh, and weftward bluish. This I have
myſelf obſerved feveral times, even when not in fight
of the iſland; and alſo that the colour of the water
changes with the meridian. Between the inlands and
the continent, I have frequently feen the water ſpout-
ed up by the whales; an appearance which has been
often taken for breakers.
WITHIN twenty or thirty leagues of the coaft, we
met with large flights of curlews; but this ditance is
the utmoſt limit of their excurfions. Thefe birds are
of a midling bignefs, moftly white except the breaſt
and upper part of the wings, which are of a rofe
colour. Their heads are proportionate to their bodies,
but their bill very long, flender, and crooked; and
as fmall at the root as at the point. They fly in vaſt
troops, and confequently are eaſily known.
THE coafts in general of this fea from Guayaquil to
the fouthward are very difficult to be feen, except in
fummer time, being the whole winter covered with
fuch thick fogs, that no object can be diſcerned at half
a league diſtance. And this dangerous hazinefs' ex-
tends often to the diftance of fifteen or twenty leagues
off to fea. But during the night, and till about ten
or eleven in the morning, the fog is only on the land.
At that time it moves farther to feaward, with a pro-
digious denſity refembling a wall, totally concealing
}
every
CH. IV.
229
SOUTH AMERICA.
}
every object on the other fide of it: And the cautious
mariner forbears to make his way thro' it, being un-
certain whether he fhall meet with clearer weather, as
he approaches nearer to the coaft.
THESE winter fogs on the coaſt of Chili, ſeem to
be occafioned by the N. winds; they being ob-
ferved always to thicken when thoſe winds blow; and
tho' the atmoſphere be clear when the wind fhifts to
that quarter, it is inftantaneouſly filled with thoſe
vapours; which continue without any diminution,
till the S. winds fet in, and have blown freſh for two
or three days fucceffively. But as in winter they are
ufually interrupted by the winds at N. W. and S.
W. theſe vapours, fo inconvenient to commerce, are
feldom totally difperfed; and it is a common phraſe
among the mariners of theſe parts, that the N. is a
filthy wind on account of the diſagreeable vapours,
with which it is loaded, and the S. is a cleanly wind,
fweeping thefe nuifances from the coaft and country,
and purifying the air. I call thefe winter fogs, as
they are equally common all along the coaft from the
parallel of twenty to the equinox, where no N, winds
are known. And as I have already related of* Lima,
all the inhabitants of the coaft, live, during the win-
ter, in a perpetual fog.
I SHALL Conclude this chapter, with a table of the
variations of the needle obferved in my fecond voyage,
in the frigate La Delivrance, from Callao, to Con-
ception Bay.
South Lat. Long. from Callao.
Variations and their
Kinds.
Deg. min. Deg. min.
Deg. min.
22
131
351
03
7
58 E
2 2
25
372
349
51
9
22
28
27
348
46
9
42
3.2. 10
350
45/1/2/
9.
58
'
*Book I. Chap. VI.
Q3
32
1
F
230
A VOYAGE TO
Book II.
Deg. min.
Deg.
min.
Deg.
min.
32
52 -
351
14/
9
06
33
51+
352
32
10
35
06
354
39 1/1
II
IO
57
000
47/2/2
II
15
36
DON George Juan, who failed froom Callao, with
the Delivrance, as commander of the Lys, another
French frigate, made the following obfervations.
South Latitude. Long, from Callao. Variations and their
Kinds.
Deg, min. Deg. min. Deg. min. E.
8.
12
06.
000
00
52
12
59
359
7
23
OQ
350
OQ
25
30
349
15
27
00
348
39
5
30
45
349
OO
160206
48
00
5
1
15
00
33
30
352
20
7
10
Without the iſland of Juan Fernandes.
33
50
356
00
8
30
33
40
000
00
10
39
33
45
002
OO
10
45
33
20
On the coaſt of Valparaiſo.
005
00
12
30
THE fenfible difference between theſe variations.
arofe from the difference of the needles, by which
they were obſerved; and the reafons for that difference
have been confidered in another place.
THE difference of the Meridians between Callao and
Conception, appears from the ſeries of obfervations
made by us at Lima, and thoſe by father Feville, at
the fame place, to be 3° 58′ which is the eaſtern. di-
ſtance of Conception from Callao, yet in the maps of
this country it is placed eight or nine degrees to the
eaſtward, a miſtake proceeding from a want of atten-
tion
CH. IV.
424
SOUTH AMERICA.
tion in the pilots in obferving the direction of
currents; and as thefe carry the fhip towards the
S. W. the pilots, when in the offing, begin to com-
pute their diſtance from the coaft. But this being in
reality much greater than that given by the rhumb,
they are afterwards under a neceffity of fteering towards
the E. and thence their reckoning makes the port
farther to the eastward than it really is; and the cur-
rents running fometimes with a greater velocity than
at others, pilots often differ in placing the meridian of
Conception, fo that very few at firft make the cape,
tho' affifted by that chart, which they confider are
the beſt. For all theſe draughts are laid down from
the falfe concluſions of erroneous journals, no allowance
having been made for the fetting of the currents.
The difference of latitude proves beyond contradic
tion the reality of the currents, and the degree of
their velocity as I have already noticed.
ON the 26th of January the Efperanza, a Spaniſh
frigate, commanded by Don Pedro de Mendinueta,
came to an anchor in the harbour of Talcaguano, after
her voyage from Monte-video in the river of Buenos
Ayres, round Cape Horn, which ſhe had performed in
fixty-fix days. On our arrival at Puerto Tome, an
officer came on board the Belin, the very fame night
we came to an anchor; and the day following, being
the fixth of February, our two frigates joined the
Eſperanza, at Talcaguano, and formed a little fqua-
dron under the command of Don Pedro de Mendi-
nueta, according to orders from the vice-roy, who
had received an account that the Efperanza lay ready
at Monte-video, to proceed on her voyage that fum-
mer into the-fouth fea, and that commodore Don Jo-
feph Pizarro, with other officers were travelling over
land to Santiago de Chili; which he had reached at
the time of our arrival.
Q4
CHAP.
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK II.
CHAP. V.
Defcription of the City of CONCEPTION, in the
Kingdom of CHILI; with an account of its
commerce, and the fertility of the country.
!
ONCEPTION, otherwife called Penco, was first
A founded by captain Pedro de Valdivia, in the
year 1550. But the powerful revolts of the Indians
of Arauco and Tucapel, obliged its inhabitants to re-
move to Santiago. They cannot, however, be charged
with having quitted their fettlement till they had been
defeated feveral times by the Indians, in one of which
they loft the abovementioned Pedro de Valdivia, who
as governor of that kingdom, was commander in chief
of the forces employed in the conqueft of it. The
fame unhappy fate alfo attended Franciſco de Villagra,
who as Valdivia's lieutenant general had fucceeded in
the command. Theſe misfortunes, and the fuperiority
of the allied Indians, obliged the Spaniards to abandon
Conception. The inhabitants however being defirous
of poffeffing again their plantations in the neighbour-
hood of that city, and of which they uſed to make
fuch large profits, petitioned the audience of Lima for
leave to return to their original city. But had foon
fufficient cauſe to repent of not having exerted their
induſtry in improving the place whither they had re-
tired, the Indians, on the firſt notice that the Spaniards
were returned to the city, forming a powerful alliance
under a daring leader, called Lautaro, took by ſtorm
a ſmall fort, which was the whole defence of the city,
and put all to the fword, except a ſmall number who
had fortunately efcaped to Santiago. Some time after
Don Gracia de Mendoza, fon to the vice-roy de
Mendoza, Marquis of Canete, arriving as governor
of Chili, with a body of forces fufficient for making
head against the Indians, reftored the inhabitants of
Con-
i
3
CH.V. SOUTH AMERICA.
233
Conception to their former poffeffions, with the greateft
apparent fecurity. But the year 1603 gave birth to a
new and more general confederacy, by which means
Conception, La Imperia, and Baldivia, with fix fmaller
places, were deftroyed; being the greatest part of the
places in this kingdom. Conception however received
freſh fuccours, the city was again repaired, and, has
continued ever fince.
Its latitude, according to an obfervation we made
in the year 1744 at Talcaguana, which lies exactly
E. and W. with the city, is 36° 43′ 15″ S. and ts
longitude from the meridian of Teneriff, according to
Father Fevillee, 303° 18′ 30″. The city is built on
the S. W. fhore of a beautiful bay, on an uneven
fandy ground, and on a fmall declivity, having a little
river running through it. The city in its extent, is
ſcarce equal to one of the fourth clafs. The deftruc-
tion it fuffered in the dreadful earthquake of 1730, oc-
cafioned all the houfes to be built low, tho' it had be-
fore been fubject to theſe ſudden convulfions of nature.
This was, however, the laſt of thoſe remarkable for
their melancholy confequences, which extended to San-
tiago, the capital of the kingdom, which was involved
in the fame ruin. On the 8th of July at one in the
morning the first motions were felt, and the concuffions
increaſing, the fea retreated to a confiderable diſtance;
but in a ſmall time returned fo impetuoufly, and with
fuch a fwell, that it overflowed the whole city, and the
neighbouring countries. In this fudden calamity the
inhabitants had no other aſylum than the neighbour-
ing eminences. This inundation was foon fucceeded by
three or four ſhocks; and at about four in the morning,
a little before day break, the concuffions returned with
the moſt tremendous violence, demolishing the few
buildings which had withftood the firft fhocks, and
the rapid motion of the ſea.
THE houfes are all either of topias or mud walls,
or adoves, unburnt bricks; but covered with tiles.
The
234
A VOYAGE TO
Book II.
The churches are fmall and mean; the fame may be
faid of the Francifcan, Auguftine, and Dominican
convents, as well as thofe belonging to the fathers of
mercy: But the college of Jefuits is not wholly deſti-
tute of elegance, being well built and of a tolerable
architecture.
THE political government of this city confifts of
a corregidor nominated by the king, and who is at
the head of the ordinary alcaldes and the regidores.
During the vacancy of this poft, the duty is per-
formed by the prefident of Chili, who is governor
and captain general of the whole kingdom, and
prefident of the audience of Santiago, on which as its
capital, Conception is dependant. The court of au-
dience was originally eſtabliſhed in the latter, and
continued there from the year 1567, to 1574; but
the danger and difturbances, occafioned by the fre-
quent revolts of the Indians, caufed it for a while.
to be fupprefs'd, and afterwards to be removed to
the city of Santiago. The prefident is however ob
liged to refide fix months of the year at Concep-
tion, that he may attend carefully to the military
concerns of the frontiers, fee that the forts be in
a good condition, and well provided with every
thing, in order to keep the Indians of Arauco in
awe, and that the military forces are in good order,
and well diſciplined, and always in readineſs to repel
any attempts of the Indians, provided they ſhould
ever abandon their dread of the Spanish troops.
During the other fix months, when the governor re-
fides at Santiago, he acts in a very different cha-
racter; hearing complaints, redreffing grievances, and
adminiftring juftice, that this tribunal may receive
the greater dignity from his prefence. Here is alfo
à chamber of finances, at the head of which is an
accountant and treafurer. Befides which Conception
has likewife all the other courts and offices ufual in
the cities of South America.
M
As
CH.V.
235
SOUTH AMERICA.
As all the inhabitants of the towns, villagès, and
country, within the jurifdiction of Conception, form
different bodies of militia, fome of which are in pay,
and all muſt be ready on any fudden alarm, there
is, befides the corregidor, a Maeftra de Campo, who
commands in all the military affairs without the city;
but we ſhall have occafion to give a farther account
of his duty in the fequel.
THIS city at firft belonged to the diocefs of Impe-
rial; but that being ruined by the perpetual incurfions
of the Indians, the epifcopal fee was removed to Con-
ception, and the chapter changed. It is now a ſuf-
fragan of Lima, and has a chapter confifting of a bi-
ſhop, dean, archdeacon, and two prebendaries.
THE juriſdiction of Conception extends from the
river Maule on the coaft N. of the city to Cape
Lavapies. It has few villages; but the whole coun-
try full of feats, farms, and cottages.
\
THE inhabitants confift of Spaniards and Mefti-
zos, who in colour are hardly diſtinguiſhable from
the former; both being very fair, and fome have
even freſh complexions. The goodness of the cli-
mate, together with the fertility of the country,
have drawn hither many Spaniſh families, both
Creoles and Europeans, who live together in that
harmony and friendſhip, which fhould be an exam-
ple to the other parts of thefe provinces; where the
comforts of fociety are greatly leffened by the feuds
arifing from a mean pride and jealoufy. The men
in general are well-ſhaped and robuſt, and the wo-
men handfome. Their customs and drefs, are a
kind of compound of thofe of Lima and Quito,
but more nearly reſemble the latter, except that the
men uſe, inſtead of a cloak, a poncho, which is
made in the form of a quilt, about two yards and
a half or three in length, and two in breadth, hav-
ing an opening in the middle juft fufficient to put
their head through, the reft hanging down on all
fides.
236
A VOYAGE TO
ľ
www.cal***
✓
Book II.
fides. (Plate VII.) This is their drefs in all weathers,
whether walking or riding. The peaſants, whom they
call Guafos, never pull it off but when they go to reſt,
tucking it up in fuch a manner, that both their arms.
and whole body are at full liberty either for labour
or diverfion. This is an univerfal garb among all
ranks when they ride on horfeback, an exerciſe very
common here; and the women are particularly famous
for their ſkill in horfemanſhip.
THIS drefs though fo plain and uniform in itſelf,
ferves to diſtinguiſh the rank and quality of the
wearer; as its price is proportional to the work on it.
Some wear it as a covering, fome for decency, and
others for fhew. Accordingly if thofe of the common
people coft only four or five dollars, others have ſtood .
the owners in a hundred and fifty.or two hundred:
This difference arifes from the fineness of the ſtuff, or
from the laces and embroidery, with which they are
decorated. They are of a double woollen ftuff ma-
nufactured by the Indians, and generally of a blue
colour embroidered with red or white; fometimes, in-
deed, the ground' is white embroidered with blue,
red, and other colours.
THE peaſants are furprizingly dextrous in ma-
naging the noofe and lance; and it is very feldom,
that tho' on full ſpeed they mifs their aim with
the former. Accordingly thefe are their chief arms,
and they will halter a wild bull with the fame agi-
lity as any other creature; nor could a man, how-
ever cautious, avoid being taken in their noofe. I
hall relate an inftance of their addrefs with regard
to an Engliſhman whom we knew at Lima. He
was in the long boat of a privateer then lying in
Conception bay, intending to land at Talcaguano,
with a view of plundering the neighbouring villages;
but a body of the country militia made to the fhore
in order to oppoſe them. Upon this the English
fired upon them with their mufquetry, imagining
4
瞥
​that
CH. V.
237
SOUTH AMERICA.
that would be fufficient to put them to flight, and
thus the place be open for them to land. They had
no fooner diſcharged their pieces, than one of the
peaſants, tho' the boat was at a confiderable diſtance,
threw his noofe, and notwithſtanding all in the
boat threw themſelves on their faces, he noofed the
above-mentioned perfon, pulling him out of the
boat with the greateft rapidity; whilft the others, in-
ftead of endeavouring to fave him, in their fright
thought of nothing but how to get out of danger as
foon as poffible. It was the Engliſhman's good fortune
not to be ftrangled or killed by the bruifes he received,
the flip knot having paffed from one fhoulder under
the oppofite arm, fo that he recovered in a few days.
As it is very feldom that they miſs, and are ob
liged on haltering a creature, to draw the knot, at
the fame time that they throw the noofe, they clap
fpurs to their horfe, and put him on his full fpeed;
that the creature is fo far from having time to dif
ingage itſelf, that it is no fooner caught than
difabled. This is a fo one of the weapons, if I
may give it that name, ufed in their private quar-
rels, defending themfelves with a lance of a mid-
dling length. And their addrefs on thefe occafions
is fo very remarkable, that very often after a long
difpute in which both parties are heartily tired, they
part with no other hurt than a few bruiſes. This
is alſo the method they take to fatisfy their revenge,
endeavouring to halter the object of their hatred,
either as he runs from them, or is not apprized of
their intention. In this cafe the only reſource in
an open country on feeing him with his noofe in his
hand, is, to throw one's felf on the ground, keeping
the legs and arms as cloſe to the furface as poffi-
ble, that the rope may have no room to get under
any part. The perfon may alfo fave himſelf by
ſtanding cloſe to a tree, and if in the ftreet by plac
ing himſelf againſt the wall. A fmall diſtance, that
is,
238
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK II.
is, under ten or fifteen paces, partly renders their
dexterity ineffectual; but there is very great dan-
ger of being intangled when the diftance is thirty
or forty. The noofes or halters, are thongs of a
cow's hide cut round the fkin, and of a proper
breadth. Theſe thongs they twift, and work with
fat, till they are of a proper degree of fuppleneſs;
but ſo ſtrong, that tho' when twisted they are not
larger than the little finger, yet they hold the wildeſt
bull, when its efforts to eſcape would break a rope
of hemp of much larger dimentions.
THE climate of this city is not effentially diffe-
rent from that of the greatest part of Europe. Win-
ter is indeed fomething colder than in the fouthern
provinces of Spain, but milder than thofe of the
northern; and the fummer heats proportionably. In
winter the inhabitants feem to be little incommoded
by the N. winds, and in fummer the heats are mo-
derated by the cooling breezes from the S. The
heat is however greater in the city than in the adjacent
country, occafioned chiefly by the different difpofition
of the ground, being interfected by various rivers,
fome of which are very large, as the Arauco and
the Biobio. The latter of which, at a league above
its mouth, is very near four leagues in breadth. It
may however in fummer be forded, but not without
danger; in the winter it is paffed in balzas. At the
fouthern banks of the river the territories of the wild
Indians begin, and near the fame fhore towards that
part are the chain of frontier forts, of which a farther
account will be given in the fequel. The country of
this jurifdiction confifts principally of extenfive plains,
the Cordillera being at a confiderable diftance to the
eaftward, and the whole fpace between it and the fea
coaſt, one entire and uniform plain, interrupted only
by a few eminences, which are an ornament to the
country, and render the perſpective of it the more
agreeable.
THE
CH. V.
239
SOUTH AMERICA.
THE great affinity between this climate and that
of Spain is evident from its products, though there
is a remarkable difference with regard to their good-
nefs and plenty, in both which this country has
greatly the advantage. The trees and plants of all
kinds have their regular feafons, embelliſhing the
fields with their verdure, entertaining the fight with
their various flowers and bloffoms, and gratifying
the palate with their delicious fruits. It is need-
leſs to mention that the times of the ſeafon muſt
be oppofite, confequently the winter in Spain is
their fummer, and the autumn of the former, the
fpring of the latter. In faying that this country
produces the fame corn and fruits as Spain, I do
not mean thoſe of the moſt fouthern parts; for
neither fugar canes, oranges nor lemons thrive here.
Nor is it well adapted to olive-yards, tho' fome o-
lives are produced here. But the fruits cultivated
in the center of Spain, are the fame with thoſe pro-
duced here in a moft aſtoniſhing plenty, wheat and
other grain generally producing a hundred fold. I
ſhall here relate an inftance I myſelf faw and ex-
amined at Talcaguano, in a garden near the fea
fide, at a place called the Morro, very little more
than a quarter of a league from the harbour. A-
mong ſeveral ſtalks of wheat that had grown there
without culture, I faw one whoſe item was not
more than a foot from the ground, but from its
knots there afterwards fprung fo many ftalks, as
produced thirty four ears*, the largeſt of which were
near three inches, in length, and the leaft not lefs
than two. The maſter of the houſe obſerving that
I viewed this production of nature with aftoniſh-
ment, told me that it was nothing extraordinary,
for tho' the grain in the ground commonly fown,
did not often attain fuch a luxuriancy, it was com-
* This ſpecies of wheat is called Triticum ſpica multiplici, and
is cultivated in Italy and Sicily.
mon
+
240
Book II.
A VOYAGE TO
32
7
ง
}
1
mon for each ſtalk to produce five or fix ears.
This information raiſed my curiofity; and I met
with ſo many inftances afterwards, that my furprize
at feeing the ftalk juft mentioned was greatly a-
bated; as from the moiſture, advantageous expofure,
and richneſs of the foil, a much greater produce
might naturally be expected than in the ground con-
ftantly fown.
THE great plenty of wheat here is fufficiently in-
dicated by its price; a meafure weighing fix arobas
and fix pounds, being ufually fold for eight or ten
rials. Yet for want of a market, tho' at fo low a
price, no more is fown than is neceffary for home
confumption; and thence great part of the country
lies fallow.
Here are vines of feveral kinds, and which vye
with the wheat in exuberance. They are alfo, both
with regard to the richneſs and flavour of their
grapes, efteeemed beyond any produced in Peru.
Moft of them are red. A fort of Mufcadel is alſo
made here, whoſe flavour far exceeds any of the kind
made in Spain. The grapes grow moftly in efpa-
Hiers, and not on detached vines. In this refpect alfo,
as in the wheat, large tracts of ground are totally
neglected. For tho' its produce is fo confiderable,
the buyers are fo few, that the vineyards do not
anfwer even the expence of cultivation.
THE chief uſe made of theſe rich lands by the
owners is, the fattening of oxen, goats and ſheep. And
this is the principal employment of greateſt part of
the inhabitants of the country of all ranks, and uni-
verfally of the lower clafs. As foon as the horned
cattle are fattened in theſe luxuriant paftures, and
the proper feafon arrived, four or five hundred, and
even more, according to the largenefs of the farm,
are flaughtered. They take out the fat, melt it into
a kind of lard, there called Graffa; and bucca-
neer or dry the fleſh in ſmoke; but the greateſt pro-
fit
Vol. II.
PL. VII. Pag.241.
......
الايو
8
TREN
་་
Fig. 1
-
39-
ደደ
12
2
1
-
Plan. of Cape.
St. Francois
See Explan.of the Plates-
Fig. 2. Men of Chili Pag. 235.
6
Fig.3. Manner of Killing the Beasts in Chili.
تریمی راید
J.Mynde fe.
CH.V.
241
SOUTH AMERICA.
fit ariſes from the hide, the tallow, and the graſſa,
a fufficient proof of their prodigious fatnefs when
killed. But an idea of the fertility of this country may
be beſt formed from the value of a live beaft, which,
when fit to be killed, may be purchaſed for four dól-
lars; a price vaftly beneath that in any other part of
India; and may be fufficient to remove the unjuft
reproach of the poverty of this province. For were
the induſtry of the people equal to the fertility of the
foil, this kingdom would be the moſt opulent of any
in America.
THE manner of flaughtering the teafts render
it a favourable diverfion to the perfons employed in
performing it, and it must be owned that their
dexterity is really furprizing. The cattle intended
to be killed are drove into an inclofure. At the
gate are the Guafos on horfeback with their fpears
two or three toifes in length, and at one end a
very fharp piece of fteel in the form of a half
moon, the points of which are about a foot diftant
from each other. Every thing being ready, the gate
of the inclofure is opened, and a beaſt turned out,
which naturally betakes itſelf to flight, but is im-
mediately purſued by a Guafo, who without check-
ing his horfe hamitrings it in one leg, and then
immediately in the other. He then alights, and
having diſpatched his capture, fkins it, takes out
the tallow, the fat for the Graffa, and cuts up the
fleſh for falting and drying. This done he wraps up
the tallow in the hide, and loading it on his horfe,
carries it to the farm; returning again for the fleſh.
After this he fets out on another expedition. Some-
-times they turn out at once as many beafts as there
are Guafos ready to kill them. And this is the daily
exerciſe till all the cattle appointed for that year's
flaughter are diſpatched. An European is furprized
not only at their dexterity in hamftringing the beaft,
when both are on full ſpeed, but alfo to fee one man
VOL. II.
R
alone
242
Book II.
A VOYAGE TO
alone go through the whole work in fuch a regular
method and great difpatch. If the beaft be fwifter
than his horfe, the Guafo has recourfe to his noofe,
and halters him by throwing it either about his
neck, or round one or two of his legs, according
as opportunity offers, and by that means fecures
him. Then if a tree be near at hand he gives the
end of the thong two or three turns round the
trunk, and the whole difficulty of killing the beaft
is over.
THE tallow is wrapt up in the hides, and in this
manner carried to the city for fale; the Graffa is
'mélted into bags of fheep-fkins; the flesh, after be-
ing cut into thin flices, is falted, and this is what
they call Taffagear; afterwards it is buccaneered or
dried in the ſmoke, and fold. The hides they tan,
and make from them a moft excellent leather, efpe-
cially for the foles of fhoes. Goats alfo as we have
already obferved, are fattened and turn to good ac-
Their tallow nearly reſembles that of the
ox, and the Cordovan leather made of their fkins
furpaffes every thing of that kind made in any, part of
the whole kingdom of Peru.
count.
ALL other proviſions and grain are in the 'fame
plenty, turkeys, geefe, and all kinds of poultry are fold
at a remarkable low price, great numbers of them
being bred all over the country, with little care and
no expence. Wild fowls alfo are very common, among
which are canelones, and others defcribed among the
birds found in 'the défarts of Quito, tho' thefe are
not fo large, and more like the bandarrias as they are
there called. 'Hère are alſo wood pigeons, turtle
doves, partridges, fnipes, woodcocks, and royal cira-
picos, &c. And with regard to theſe the air may be
faid to vie with the fertility of the earth.
AMONG the birds I muft not omit one of a very
fingular kind, and found all over the country. The
natives call theſe birds difpertadores, awakeners, from
their
CH. V.
243
SOUTH AMERICA:
1
their giving notice to others of the approach of any
danger. On hearing the noife of the approach of any
creature whether man or beaft, or feeing them within a
fmall diſtance, they rife from the ground, and make
a loud chattering not unlike that of a magpye; con-
tinuing the noife, and flying about in the air over the
object which caufed the alarm. This is underſtood
by the birds thereabouts, who immediately rife and by
that means eſcape the danger.
THIS bird is about the fize of a middling fowl, its
plumage black and white, has a thick neck, the head
fomething large, erect, and beautifully adorned with
a tuft of feathers; its eyes are large, fharp and lively;
its bill well proportioned, ftrong, and a little curved.
On the fore part of their wings are two fpurs, about
an inch in length, of a reddifh tinct towards the root,
and their points refembling thofe of a cock, being
very hard and fharp. Theſe are the weapons they
make uſe of againſt the other birds, particularly
thofe of prey as hawks, and others of that kind, which
probably abound the more in this country, from the
great variety of prey it affords them.
AMONG the finging birds is the goldfinch, in every
particular reſembling thofe of Spain, except a fmall
variation in its plumage. There are befides others
proper to this country, and met with in all the cold
climates, particularly the piches, which are fomething
larger than fparrows. They are of a brown colour,
ſpotted with black, except their breaft, which is of a
moſt beautiful red, and fome feathers of the fame co-
lour in their wings, intermixed with others of a bright
yellow. Amidst all the fertility of this country, the
only infects are the niguas or piques; and tho' fome
fnakes are found in the fields and woods, their bite is
not dangerous. Neither are the country peaſants under
any apprehenfions from ravenous beafts; fo that natúre
may be faid to pour her treaſures on this country, with-
out blending them with the uſual inconveniences.
R 2
• THE
244
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
хочу
THE fruits which moftly abound in Chili, are of
the fame kind as thoſe known in Europe; its cher-
ries in particular are large, and of a fine tafte. The
ftrawberries are of two kinds, one called frutillas, and
are larger than thofe of Quito, wanting little of being
equal to a hen's egg in magnitude. The other, which
-in fize, colour and tafte, perfectly refemble thoſe of
Spain, grow wild, on the fide of the eminences with
which the plains are interfperfed. And here alfo grow
all kind of flowers, without any other culture, than
that of benign nature.
AMONG the remarkable herbs, of which many
are medicinal, and others applied to divers uſes, is
the panque, of great fervice in tanning leather. It
abounds every where, and grows to about four or five
feet from the ground. The principal ftem, which is
of a ſoft ſubſtance, is betwixt four and five inches în
diameter, and about two feet and a half in height, fe-
parating there into feveral branches, bearing round,
ferrated, rough, and thick leaves, and fo large that
their diameter when full grown, is feldom lefs than a
foot and a half, and fometimes two feet. Before the
plant is fit to be cut, when the leaves begin to turn
red, the peaſants make an incifion into the bark, and
fuck the juice which is very cooling and aftringent;
but as foon as ever the leaf is obferved to turn white,
an indication of decay, they cut the plant down at
the root, take off the branches, and divide the ftalk
into fhort pieces, which being dried in the fun, make
an excellent tan.
BESIDES this ri h variety of productions, on the
ſurface of the earth, the country alfo abounds with
valuable mines and quarries; particularly of Lapis
lazuli and loadſtone, copper equal to the beſt of
Europe; befides feveral of gold; but no advantage is
derived from any; the inhabitants, contented with the
plentiful enjoyment of all the neceffaries of life, ex-
tend their wishes no farther, leaving to the curiofity
and
CH. V.
245
SOUTH AMERICA.
and avarice of others the laborious fearch after what
the earth contains in its bowels.
THIS kingdom of Chili feems alfo to have been
the first country of thofe famous horfes and mules,
mentioned in the firft volume. Indeed all thefe
creatures found in America, owe their origin to fome.
imported from Spain. At prefent, however, thofe
of Chili furpaſs not only thofe of the other parts of
America, but even thofe of Spain, from whence they
are derived. The horfes first brought over might
poffibly have been of the running kind, Spain ſtill
abounding in that fort. But it must be owned, that
greater care has been taken here of preventing the
breed from being mixed with others of a lefs generous
fpecies; and by this means they greatly exceed thofe of
Spain; for without any other incentive than their own
inclination, before they will fuffer any other to get
before them, they will exert their utinoft ftrength;
and at the fame time their motion is fo eaſy, that the
rider is not the leaft fatigued. In beauty and grace-
fulneſs they are not inferior to the famous Andelufian
horſes, and at the fame time full of fpirit. Accord-
ingly they are every where fo highly valued, that a
more acceptable prefent cannot be made to a perfon of
the greateſt diftinction, than one of thefe beafts. Many
purchaſe them for parade, and befides their being
common all over the kingdom, they have been fent
even to Quito. The great demand for them, and con-
fequently their high price, has induced the inhabitants
of ſeveral countries to attempt the breeding of them;
but none are equal to thofe of Chili.
THE Commerce at Conception might be confide-
rably increaſed, were, the country, which is far from
being the cafe, inhabited in any proportion to its
fertility and extent; but for want of a fufficient
number of hands, their commerce is at a very low
ebb, confifting almoft intirely in provifions, wine,
&c, and this is fo fmall, that it is chiefly carried on
R 3
by
!
246
Book II.
A VOYAGE TO
by only a fingle fhip coming once a year from Calloa
to load with them, together with a few others trade-
ing to Chiloe or Baldivia, and in their return touch
here Their exports are tallow, graffa, cordovan,
bend leather, excellent butter, wines, and dried
fruits. The goods brought hither in exchange are
the ſeveral forts of woollen ftuffs from Quito, and
others from Europe, iron, and mercury. Very few
European goods are however imported; for the peo-
ple here not being remarkable for their riches, ufe
only home made ftuffs and bays, which tho' extreme-
ly good are in no great quantity. The commerce
carried on between the inhabitants of Chili, and
the Arauco Indians, fhall be mentioned in its proper
place.
·
CHAP. VI.
Defcription of CONCEPTION BAY; its roads or
barbours, fish, &c. and the fingular mines of
Shells in its neighbourhood.
T
HE bay of Conception, befides its excellent
bottom, is of fuch an extent, as not to be
equalled by any on the whole coaft. For from
Tierra-Firma, north and fouth, its length is nearly
three leagues and a half, and its breadth from eaſt
to weft, almoft three leagues, being the diftance be-
twixt the harbour of Talcaguano, and the Ci-
rillo virde, or little green mountain, fituated near
the city; from whence its breadth is contracted by
the inland of Quiriquina, which lying in the mouth
of it, forms two entrances, of which that on the eaſt
fide is the fafeft, being two miles in breadth, and
accordingly frequented by moft fhips. The weft
entrance is between the iſland and Talcaguano point,
and
CH. VI.
247
SOUTH AMERICA.
and is near half a league in breadth. In the prin-
cipal entrance of this bay is thirty fathom water,
which depth afterwards.decreaſes to eleven and ten,
till within about a mile of the fhore, oppofite to the
entrance: The western, tho' the many rocks and
breakers in it make it appear very dangerous, has a
channel with water fufficient for the largeft fhip, the
depth being at first thirty fathom, and never lefs
than eleven; it is fituated in the middle of the en-
trance, that is at "an equal diftance between the rocks
which project about a quarter of a league froin Talca-
guano point, and Quriquina.
WITHIN the bay are three roads or harbours,
where fhips anchor; for tho' the bottom be every
where clear, it is only in one of thefe three place's
ſhips can ride in ſafety, being no where elſe ſheltered
from the wind. The firft called Puerto Tome, lies
E. and W. with the N. point of Quiriquina, conti-
guous to the coaft of Tierra Firma. The anchoring
place is about half a league diftant from the land, in
about twelve fathom water. But this road is only
ufed when ſhips come in during the night, it being
difficult to reach either of the other two before day
light, as feveral tacks muſt be made for that purpoſe.
•
IN this bay the principal port is that of Talcagua-
na. It is properly an elbow, and bears S. S. W. from
the S. point of Quiriquina. This is by far the
most frequented, fhips in general anchoring here,
having not only better ground than any other part
of the bay, but are in fome meaſure fheltered from
the N. winds. Whereas at Cirillo-verde, they lie
expofed, not only to thefe, but alfo to the S. winds,
the land which fhould intercept them being low.
Befides the bottom is of a loofe mud, fo that the
anchors in a hard gale of wind, generally come home;
and confequently the fhips in great danger of being
ftranded on the coaft. From thefe inconveniences it
may be concluded, that the only fhips which anchor
R 4
here,
!
248
A VOYAGE TO Book II.
here, are fuch as happen to be in thofe parts in the
midſt of ſummer, an are in hafte to take in their
loading, for which this road is moſt convenient, as
being nearest the city.
Two rivers empty themfelves into this bay, one
of which paffing thro' the city of Conception, has
thence the fame name; the other is called St. Pedro.
The first is the watering place for fhips anchoring at
Girillo Verde; whereas thofe at Talcaguano, fupply
themſelves with that neceffary fluid from ſome ſtreams
which flow from the adjacent eminences; they eaſily
take on board a fufficient quantity of wood, of which
there is here plenty; as of all other neceffaries.
SHIPS, before they enter the bay of Conception.
endeavour to make the island of Santa Maria, and
then coaft along it, keeping at the fame time, a good
look out for a reef of rocks which ftretches out al-
moft three leagues from the N. W. point; thence
they continue their courfe, keeping at a little di-
ftance from the main, there being no rocks but
what are above water. After weathering the reef of
rocks on the inland of Santa Maria, they fteer di-
rectly for Talcaguano point, at the distance of about
half a league; from which feaward, is a rock called
Quiebraollas, which must be the more carefully
avoided at it is furrounded with fhoals. There is,
however, no danger, if the fhip be not nearer than
half a mile; indeed there is a fufficient depth of
water within a cable's length. After their being a-
breaft of this rock they iteer for the N. point of
Quiriquina, off which lie two rocks, but the fartheſt
from the fhore is only a quarter of a league, and
may be fafely approached within a ftone's caft. Both
thefe rocks fwarm with fea-wolves; and as there is
a fufficient depth of water all round them, there is no
other danger in ftanding near them, than what may
be feen. There is indeed a neceffity for ftanding near
them, to avoid falling to leeward of the bay. After
2
paffing
CH.VI.
249
SOUTH AMERICA:
paffing them, the courfe is continued as near as poſſible
to the iſland of Quiriquina, taking care to avoid fome
other rocks lying along the fhore.
the shore.
As fhips are generally obliged to make feveral tacks
in order to get into Conception bay, care muſt be
taken not to approach too near the iſland of Quiriqui-
na, either on the E. or S. fides; for tho' the coaft
is bold on the N. and N. W. fides, there is a fhoal
on the S. extending to a confiderable diftance from
At a third part of the. diftance between
the road at Talcaguano, and the point of the fame
name, is another fhoal, running about half a league
to the eastward. In the middle of it is a ledge of
rocks, whofe tops are dry at low water. To avoid
this fhoal, tho' the thick water fufficiently indicates it,
the beſt way is, at entering the mouth of the bay with
a land wind, to ſteer directly for the middle of a ſpot
of red earth on a mountain of a middling height, fitu-
ated at the bottom of the bay, continuing this courſe
till the ſhip is paffed the fhoal; and then ſteer direct-
ly for the houſes at Talcaguana, till within about half
a mile from the fhore, which is the uſual anchoring
place in five or fix fathom water; Cape Herradura,
being covered by the iſland of Quiriquina. The fame
care is alſo neceffary to avoid another reef of rocks,
lying between the Morro and the coaft of Talcaguana;
nor muſt the Morro fide be approached too near, there
being a fand ſtretc hing all along from that reef of
rocks to Cirillo Verde. The fhips riding at Talca-
guana in the manner thus preſcribed, are fheltered
from the N. wind; but not entirely fo from the fea,
which in thoſe winds runs very high, and pours in
through both entrances. The goodneſs of the bottom,
however, fecures the fhip. During the force of theſe
winds there is no poffibility of landing on account of
the great fea; but in fair weather, every place is con-
venient for going on fhore.
THE Country round the bay,
particularly that
between
1
250
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
between Talcaguana, and Conception, within four or
five leagues from the fhore, is noted for a very fin-
gular curiofity, namely, that at the depth of half or
three quarters of a yard beneath the furface of the
ground, is a ftratum of fhells of different kinds,
two or three toifes in thickneſs, and in fome pla-
ces even more, without any intermixture of earth,
one large fhell being joined together by fmaller,
and which alfo fill the cavities of the larger. From
thefe fhells all the lime ufed in building is made;
and large pits are dug in the earth for taking out
thofe fhells, and calcining them. Were theſe ftrata
of fhells found only in low and level places, this
phænomenon would be more eafily accounted for
By a fuppofition. no ways improbable, namely, that
thefe parts were formerly covered by the fea, agree-
able to an obfervation we made in our deſcription of
Lima. But what renders it furprizing is, that the
like quarries of the fame kind of thells, are found
on the tops of mountains in this country, fifty toifes
above the level of the fea. I did not indeed perfonally
examine the quarries on the higheft of thofe moun-
tains; but was affured of their exiſtence by perfons
who had lime kilns there; but I faw them myſelf on
the fummits of others at the height of twenty toifes
above the furface of the fea; and was the more
pleaſed with the fight, as it appeared to me a con-
vincing proof of the univerfality of the deluge. I am
not ignorant that fome have attributed this to other
cauſes; but an unanswerable confutation of their fubter-
fuge is, that the various forts of shells which compoſe
thefe ftrata both in the plains and mountains, are
the very fame with thoſe found in the bay and neigh-
bouring places. Among theſe fhells are three fpe-
cies very remarkable: the first is called Choros,
already mentioned in our deſcription of Lima; the
fecond is called Pies de Burros, affes feet; and the
third Bulgados, and theſe to me feem to preclude all
manner
1
CH.VI.
251
SOUTH AMERICA:
manner of doubt that they were originally produced
in that fea, from whence they were carried by the
waters, and depofited in the places where they are
now found.
I HAVE examined thefe parts with the clofeſt atten-
tion, and found no manner of veftige of fubterraneous
fires. No calcinations are to be met with on the
furface of the earth, nor among the fhells; which, as I
have already obferved, are not intermixed with earth;
nor are there ftones, or any other heterogeneous
fubftances found among them. Some of theſe fhells
are entire, others broken; as muſt naturally happen
in fuch a clofe compreffion of them, during fo long
an interval of time. This circumftance, however trifling
it may appear to fome, may deferve the confideration
of thofe who have advanced the notion, that fhells may
be formed in the earth by fubterraneous fires, co-ope
rating with the nature of the foil.
THE Pie de Burro, has its name from the fiſh in-
cloſed in it, reſembling, when taken out, the foot of
an afs. This fifh is of a dark brown colour, firm and
filacebus; it is an univalve, its mouth almoft circular,
and its diameter about three inches. The bottom of
the ſhell is concave within, and convex without. The
colour within is perfectly white, the furface very
fmooth; the outfide fcabrous and full of tubercles.
Its thickneſs in every part is about four or five lines;
and being large, compact, and heavy, is preferred
to all others for making lime.
THE bulgados, in the Canaries called bulgaos, are
fnails, not at all differing in their form from the com-
mon; but larger than thofe of the fame name found in
gardens, being from two inches, to two inches and a
half in diameter. The fhell is alfo very thick, rough
on the outfide, and of a dark brown colour; and,
next to the preceding, makes the beſt lime.
ALL theſe fpecies of fhell-fifh are found at the
bottom of the fea in four, fix, ten and twelve fathom
water.
252
Book II.
A VOYAGE TO
water. They are caught by drags; and what is very
remarkable is, that no fhells, either the fame, or that
have any reſemblance to them, are feen either on the
fhores continually waſhed by the fea, or on thofe tracks
which have been overflowed by an extraordinary tide.
They adhere to a fea plant, called Cochayuyo, lake
herb, the Indians making no nominal diftinctions be-
tween the inland lakes, and the fea, calling both
cochas. This plant reſembles the bejuco; its diame-
ter is about half an inch, and from its root to its ex-
tremity of an equal thickneſs. In length is from
twenty to thirty toifes, producing at every eighteen
inches, or fomething more, a leaf about a yard and a
half or two yards in length; but the breadth, which
is in every part the fame, does not exceed two or three
inches. It is remarkable fmooth, which, together
with a vifcid liquor, with which it, is covered, gives it
a very fine glofs. The fame may be faid of the ftem,
which is extreamly flexible, and ftrong. Its colour
is of a pale green, but that of the leaves more vivid.
This plant divides itſelf into ſeveral branches, equal
in dimenſions to the main ftem. Thefe branches fuc-
-
ceffively produce others of the fame proportion; fo
that the produce of one fingle root covers a prodigious
fpace. At the joints where the branches fpring, are
found this kind of fhell fiſh, where they both receive
their nouriſhment, and propagate their fpecies. The
extremities of thefe Cochayuyos, float on the furface,
and in fome lakes, where the water has remained a long
time undisturbed, form a kind of carpet. At the
junction of the ftalk of every leaf with the ftem, is
a berry refembling a caper, but fomething larger,
fmooth and gloffy on the ſurface, and exactly of
the fame colour with the ſtem.
The feas on theſe coafts abound in excellent fish,
tho' not in fo great a degree as thofe near Juan Fer-
nandes. Here are feen, in particular, a great num-
ber of whales, which come even into the bay; alfą
tunny-
CH. VII.
253
SOUTH AMERICA;
tunny-fifh, and fea-wolves. Among the amphibious
creatures here is one known all along theſe coafts, and
even at Callao. It is called Pajaro Nino, the bird-
child. It in fome parts reſembles a goofe, except that
its neck and bill are not arched, and is fomething
larger. It has a thick neck, a large head, and a
ftrong fhort bill. Its legs very ſmall, and in walking
the body is in an erect pofition. Its wings are ſmall,
cartilaginous, and nearly reſemble the fins of the feal,
Its tail is fo fmall as hardly to be diftinguifhed; its
wings and whole body are covered with a fhort brown
hair like that of the fea-wolves, and generally full of
white fpots, tho' fome are of other colours. So that
upon the whole, the bird makes no diſagreeable ap-
pearance. It lives promifcuouſly either in the water or
on the land; on the latter it is eaſily taken, being very
flow in its motions; but when attacked, bites feverely,
'tho' it is obſerved never to be the firſt aggreffor.
CHAP. VII.
Defcription of the City of SANTIAGO, the Capital
of the Kingdom of CHILI.
A
FTER giving an account of all the cities and places
of note, thro' which we paffed, I muft not omit
the capital of the kingdom of Chili. We had not
indeed occafion to vifit it perfonally; but by the in-
formations we received from perfons beft qualified to
anſwer our inquiries, in the ports of its jurifdiction,
to which our affairs called us more than once, we
are enabled to gratify the curiofity of a rational
reader.
THE city of Santiago, originally called Santiago
de la Nueftra Eftremadura, was founded by captain
Pedro de Valdivia, who began the foundation on the
24th of February 1541, in the valley of Mapocho,
near
254
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
J
near that of Chili, which gives its name to the whole
kingdom. It has not been fubject to the revolutions
of other places, but ftill ftands on its original ſpot,
which is nearly in 33° 40′ fouth latitude, and about
twenty leagues from the harbour of Valparaifo, the
neareſt port to it in the fouth feas. Its fituation is
one of the most convenient and delightful that can be
imagined, standing in a delightful plain of twenty-
four leagues in extent, watered by a river flowing in
meanders thro' the middle of it, and called by the
fame name of Mapocho. This river runs fo near the
city, that by means of conduits, the water is convey-
ed from it thro' the treets, and alfo fupplies the
gardens, which few houfes here are without, and
hence the delightful fituation of the place, and the
pleaſure of the inhabitants are greatly heightned.
THE city is a thoufand toiles in length from E.
to W. and fix hundred in breadth from N. to S.
On the fide oppofite the river, which waſhes the N.
part of it, is a large fuburb, called Chimba; and
on the E. fide, almaft contiguous to the houſes, is a
mountain of a middling height, called Santa Lucia.
The ftreets are all of a handfome breadth, paved
and ftreight; fome run exactly in an E. and Ŵ. di-
rection, and are croffed by others, lying exactly N.
and S. Near the middle of the city is the grand
piazza, which, like that of Lima, is fquare, with a
very beautiful fountain in the center. On the N. fide
are the palace of the royal audience, where the prefi-
dents have their appartments, the town-houſe, and
the public priſon. The W fide is taken up by the
cathedral and the bishop's palace. The S. fide confifts
of fhops, each decorated with an arch; and the E.
is a row of private houſes. The other parts of the
city are divided into infulated fquares of houfes, regu-
lar, and of the fame dimenfions with thofe of Lima.
THE houſes here are built of adoves, or unburnt
bricks, and very low; this neceffary caution againſt
the
CH. VII.
255
SOUTH AMERICA.
the terrible devaſtation of earthquakes being equally
neceffary here as in all other towns of Peru, calamities
with which this city has been often vifited; but the
moſt remarkable are the following.
1. In the year 1570, an earthquake happened, which
overflowed feveral mountains in this kingdom; many
villages were entirely deſtroyed, and great part of the
inhabitants buried in their ruins.
2. In the year 1647, on the 13th of May, many
of the houſes and churches of this city were ruined by
another ſhock.
3. IN 1657, on the 15th of March, the earth was
obferved to have a tremulous motion for the space of
a quarter of an hour, and few of the buildings in the
city were left ftanding.
4. IN 1722, on the 24th of May, great part of the
'houſes were damaged by another earthquake.
{
5. In the year 1730, on the 8th of July, happened
-that tremendous earthquake already mentioned in our
-account of Conception. This fhock not only ruined
the greateſt part of the city, but concuffions were
often felt for many months afterwards; and this ca-
-taſtrophe was ſucceeded by an epidemical diftemper,
which fwept away even greater numbers than had be-
fore perifhed by the earthquake.
NOTWITHSTANDING the houſes are low, they make
a handfome appearance, and are well contrived both
for pleaſure and convenience.
L
BESIDES the cathedral and the parish church of the
Sagrario, here are two others, namely, that of St.
Anne, and St. Ifadoro. There are alſo three convents
of St. Francifco, San Diego, a college for ſtudents,
sand, without the city, a convent of recollects; two of
Auguftines, one of Dominicans, one of the fathers of
mercy, one of St. Juan de Dios, and five colleges of
Jefuits, namely, St. Michael, the Noviciate, St. Paul,
St. Xavier, a college for ftudents, who wear a brown
cloak, and a red ſcarf, and the college, called La
Olleria,
A
V
}
7
256
A VOYAGE TO Book II.
+
.
Olleria, for the exercifes of St. Ignatius. Here are
alfo four nunneries, two of St. Clare, two of Au-
guftines, and one of Carmelites, and a religious fifter
hood, under the rules of St. Auguftine. All which
have a large number of reclufes, as is common in all
the cities of Peru. The churches of the convents, be-
fides being very fpacious, are built either of brick or
ftone, and thofe of the Jefuits are diftinguiſhed by the
beauty of their architecture. The parish churches are
in every reſpect greatly inferior to them.
THE inhabitants of Santiago are computed at a-
bout four thousand families, and of theſe nearly one
half are Spaniards of all degrees; and among them
fome very eminent both for rank and opulence. The
other moiety conſiſts of Cafts and Indians, but chiefly
´of the latter.
THE Cuftoms here differ very little from thofe
already mentioned in our account of large cities.
They are not fo negligent in their care of their ap-
parel as at Conception; and inftead of the often-
tation of Lima, they follow the modeft decency
of Quito. The men, except on fome particular ce-
remonies, generally wear ponchos, and all the fami-
lies who can any way afford it, keep a calaſh for
driving about the city. The men are robuft, of a
proper ftature, well-fhaped, and of a good air. The
women have all the charms of thofe of Peru, and are
rather more remarkable for the delicacy of their
features, and the fineness of their complections; but
they disfigure their natural beauty by a miſplaced art,
painting themſelves in fuch a prepofterous manner,
as not only to ſpoil the natural delicacy of their ſkin,
but even their teeth; fo that it is very rare to fee sa
woman here of any age with a good fet.
In this city is a royal audience, removed hither
from Conception. It confifts of a prefident, four.
auditors, and a fifcal, together with another officer
dignified with the indearing title of patron of the
Indians.
હૈ
CH. VII.
257
SOUTH AMERICA.
Indians. The determinations of this court are with-
out appeal except to the fupreme council of the In-
dies, and this only in matters of notorious injuftice,
or denial of redreſs.
THE prefident, tho' in fome particulars fubordi-
nate to the vice-roy of Lima, is alfo governor and
captain general of the whole kingdom of Chili;
and, as fuch, he is to refide one half of the year at
Conception, and the other at Santiago. During his
abſence from the laſt city, the corregidor acts as his
repreſentative; and his jurifdiction, on this occafion,
extends to all the other towns, except the military go-
vernments.
THE magistracy, at the head of which is the corre-
gidor, confifts of regidores, and two ordinary alcaldes.
In theſe are lodged the police, and civil government
of the city; and during the time the prefident refides
here, the jurifdiction of the corregidor is limited to
the liberties of Santiago.
THE office for the royal revenue, is directed by an
accountant and treaſurer; where are paid the tributes
of the Indians, and other parts of the revenue; the
falaries of officers within its department, and other
affignments.
THE chapter of the cathedral confifts of the bishop,
dean, archdeacon, chantor, four canons; and other
fubordinate ecclefiaftics.
HERE is alſo a tribunal of Croifade, the members
of which are a fubdelegate commiffary, an accountant
and treaſurer. Likewiſe a commiffion of inquifition,
all the officers of which are appointed by the tribunal
of inquifition at Lima.
THE temperature of the air at Santiago is nearly
the fame with that of Conception. The luxuriancy
of foil, and exuberance of all kinds of provifions, the
commerce, and other neceffary particulars, I fhall
mention in the following account of the kingdom of
Chili.
VOL. II.
S
СНАР.
1
258
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE ΤΟ
CHAP. VIII.
Account of that part of CHILI within the jurif
diction of the audience of SANTIAGO.
T¹
HE kingdom of Chili extends from the fron-
tiers of Peru to the reights of Magellan,
the diſtance being five hundred and thirty leagues.
Theſe two kingdoms, as I have mentioned in ano-
ther place, are feparated by the defart of Atacamo,
which extends eighty leagues between the province
of the fame name, being the laft of Peru, and the
valley of Copoyapu, now corruptly called Copiapo,
the firſt in Chili, and in every particular reſembles
the defart of Sectura. Eaftward, fome parts of
this kingdom terminates on the frontiers of Paraguay,
tho' fome uninhabited defarts intervene; and others
border on the government of Buenos Ayres. Tho'
between theſe are the Pampas or extenfive and level
plains. Its weſtern boundary is the fouth-fea, ex-
tending from 27 deg. nearly, the latitude of Copiapo,
to 53° 30′ S. But to confine ourfelves to the true
extent of this kingdom, as inhabited by the Spaniards,
it begins at Copiapo, and terminates at the large
ifland of Chiloe, the fouthern extremity of which is
in 34° of S. latitude; and its extent from W. to E.
is the diftance between the Cordillera, which is here
of a ſtupendous height, and the coaft of the fouth-fea;
that is, about thirty leagues.
PART of the country which at preſent compoſes
the kingdom of Chili, was fubjected to the empire of
the Yncas by Yupanqui, the tenth emperor; who,
incited by the inchanting account given of thefe
provinces, undertook the conqueft of them; and pro-
fecuted the enterprize with fuch fuccefs, that he fub-
dued the feveral nations inhabiting the valleys of Co-
poyapu or Copiapo, Coquimpu, or Coquimbo, and
Chili.
CH. VIII.
259
SOUTH AMERICA.
Chili. But in his intended career fouthward, the vic-
torious Ynca met with an unfurmountable difficulty
from the Purumauco Indians, and other nations, whom
the rapidity of his conquefts had induced to oppoſe
him by a general confederacy. Thus he found him-
felf under a neceffity of defifting, after having carried
his arms as far as the river Mauli, which is in the la-
tude of 34° 30′.
AFTER the Spaniards had undertaken a defcent
in Peru, and made themfelves mafters of its ſeveral
provinces, the marshal Don Diego de Almagro, was
commiffioned for the conqueft of Chili. Accord-
ingly he marched from Cufco at the beginning of
the year 1535, and after lofing the greateft part of
This Indians, and a confiderable number of Spaniards,
who periſhed with cold in paffing over the cor-
dillera nevada, he arrived at Copiapo, where the
Indians, without trying the chance of war, fub.
mitted. Animated with fuch unexpected pufillani-
mity, he proceeded to the conqueft of other nations;
even fuch as never had acknowledged the Yncas.
And tho' he here met with a more warlike people, who
were determined to fell their liberty dear, he carried
on the war profperoufly. But his majefty, in con-
fideration of his great fervices, performed with fo
much hazard, having conferred on him the go-
vernment of a territory a hundred leagues in length,
fouth of that which belonged to the marquis Don
Franciſco Pizarro, a difference arofe between theſe
two great men, with regard to the boundaries of
their reſpective governments. Almagro, impatient
to take poffeffion, and pretending that the city of
Cuſco ought to be included in his government, the
conqueft was fufpended, and he himself haftened to
that city, where inftead of being invefted with the
chief command, he fell a facrifice to the jealouſy of
Hernando Pizarro, who endeavoured to
endeavoured to conceal
S 2
his
260
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
L
!
his irregular proceedings under the veil of justice.
In the year 1541, the conqueft of Chili was again
fet on foot, and the marquis Pizarro conferred the
command on Pedro de Valdivia, together with the
title of general. Accordingly he marched into the
country, and founded moft of the principal towns,
and villages in it. So that in the year 1548, he was
promoted to the government of it, by the prefident
of Peru. In the proſecution of the conqueft of
thefe provinces, he had many fharp fkirmishes with
the natives, till at laft, in the year 1553, bravely
oppofing a general revolt, with a very inferior force,
he fell fighting with the greateſt intrepidity at the
head of his troops, the greateſt part of whom, en-
raged at lofing fo brave a man, choſe to perifh with
him rather than fave themſelves by flight. His
name, befides the figure it makes in hiſtory, is ſtill
preferved in this country in the town of Valdivia,
which he founded.
THE martial genius of the Indians of this king-
dom, confiderably retarded the reduction of it; and
has always been the chief caufe why the Spaniſh ſet-
tlements here, are fo little proportional to the extent,
fertility and riches of the country. Accordingly
the captain-generalfhip of this vaft kingdom has
only four particular governments, and eleven jurif-
dictions; which are the following.
Particular governments in the kingdom of Chili.
I. The major-generalfhip
of the kingdom of Chili.
II. Valparaifo.
III. Valdivia.
IV. Chiloe.
Jurifdictions in the kingdom of Chili.
I. Santiago.
II. Rancagua,
III. Colchagua.
IV. Chillan.
V. Aconcagua.
VI. Melipilla.
VII. Quillota.
VIII. Coquimbo.
IX. Copiapo,
CH.VIII. SOUTH AMERICA.
261
IX Copiapo, & Guafco. X. Mendoza.
XI. La Conception.
I. To the majorgeneralfhip of the kingdom of
Chili, belongs the military government of the fron-
tier towns and fortreffes. Theſe are Arauco, the
ſtated refidence of the general, Santajuana, Puren,
Los Angeles, Tucapel, and Yumbel. It will be
here neceffary to obferve, that not above five leagues
fouth of Conception bay, the fea receives a river
called Biobio, both the fouth banks and head of
which are inhabited by wild Indians: and to pre-
vent their incurfions, ftrong forts have been erected
along the banks, and are always well garrifoned
and furniſhed with all kinds of military ftores. A-
mong theſe on the fouth banks of the river is the
fort of Arauco, and the others at a proper diftance
eastward to the mountain of Tucapel.
Thus all
attempts from thefe Indians is precluded, and the
Spaniſh fettlements protected from their depreda-
tions. The general is obliged to vifit thefe forts
from time to time, carefully infpecting into their
condition, and, in cafe of neceffity, to haften to
their relief. During his abfence, the commanding
officer of each is the captain of the garrifon, which
uſually confiſting both of horſe and foot with their
officers, the perfon on whom the command devolves
is previouſly nominated. This important poft is in
the difpofal of the prefident, as fuppofed to be beft
acquainted with the merits of the feveral competi-
tors when a vacancy happens; and that the fafety
of his government will induce him to prefer the
moft deferving. Accordingly whoever intends to
offer himſelf a candidate for this poft, fhould foli-
cit to be employed in the frontier fervice, procure
a competent knowledge of the ftratagems of the In-
dians, and be very attentive to diftinguiſh himſelf
on any alarm, or encounter. It is indeed expreſſed
in the royal commiffion, that the corregidor of Cong
$ 3
ception,
262
Book II.
A VOYAGE TO
ception, fhall be the military commander in chief;
and, confequently, it is to him that the appointment
of the general properly belongs; but this, from very
powerful reafons, is difpenfed with, the proper dif-
charge of thefe two pofts, being utterly incompati-
ble; and the civil and military requifite here very
rarely meeting in the fame perfon. But when this
obftacle does not exift, and the corregidor is one of
thefe extraordinary perfons, the prefident, agreeable
to the royal expreffion, confers the poft of Maeftre
de campo on the corregidor of la Conception.
H. VALPARAISO is the fecond military govern-
ment. But the particular account of it, I fhall re-
ferve for a more proper place.
III. VALDIVIA has a military governor nomina-
ted by the king. Here is alfo a good body of
troops, both for garriſoning the place, and the forts
built to defend the entrance of the river and har-
bours in it. Clofe to the river ftands the town, the
inhabitants of which are chiefly whites or Meſtizos ;
but a village forming a kind of fuburb is inha-
bited by friendly Indians. This government has un-
dergone fome viciffitudes in point of fubordination,
being fometimes independent of the prefidents of
Chili, and immediately fubject to the vice-roy of
Lima; and at other times a part of the former.
At laft, on weighing the difficulties for providing for
any fudden exigence, or having a watchful eye over
its neceffary concerns at fo great a diftance as Lima,
it was annexed to the jurifdiction of the prefident of
Chili, as being nearer at hand to fee that the forces
are always on a good footing, and conftantly in a
proper pofture of defence.
IV. CHILOE has a military governor, who refides
at Chacao, the principal harbour of the iſland, be-
ing well fortified and capable of making a good
defence. Befides Chacas, which has the title of a
city, is another place much larger, called Calbuco,
where
2
:
CH. VIII:
253
SOUTH AMERICA.
where refides a corregidor, who is nominated by the
prefident of Chili. It has alfo regidores and alcal-
des chofen annually. Befides the parish church here
is a convent of Francifcans, another of the fathers
of mercy, and a college of Jefuits. The iſland is
every where well peopled with Spaniards, Meftizos,
and chriftian Indians.
THE kingdom of Chili has continually a body
of regular troops, confifting of five hundred men,
for garrifoning Valparaifo, a fort at Conception,
and thofe on the frontiers. One half of this body is
infantry and the other cavalry. Under the major
general who commands in,chief is a ferjeant major,
whofe duty it is to render them expert in all the various
parts of military exercife; and that he may more con-
veniently render them ready at their feveral evolutions,
he refides at the fort of Jumbal, which lies in the
center of the others. To theſe alſo belong a com-
miffary general of the horſe, whofe poft is at Arauco,
and in the abſence of the general has the command.
Theſe troops have alfo a mufter-mafter general, who
refides at Conception. The ftanding forces of Chili, till
the beginning of this century, confifted of two thoufand
men; but the great charge of fupporting fuch a body
of troops, occafioned them to be reduced to the pre-
fent number.
THE produce of the revenue offices at Santiago
and Conception, not being fufficient to defray the
expences of even this fmall body, a remittance of
100,000 dollars, is every year fent from Lima,
half in fpecie, and half in cloaths, and other goods.
But fix or eight thoufand is annually deducted out
of this fum for repairing the forts of the frontiers,
and making prefents to the deputies of the Indians
who attend at conferences, or to fatisfy thofe who
complain to the prefident of injuries received.
VALDIVIA alſo receives from the treaſury of
Lima, an annual fupply of 70,000 dollars, 30,000
Y
?
S 4
in
264
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
in fpecie, the value of thirty thouſand in clothes
for the foldiers, and 10,000 in fpecie, which is paid
to the king's officers at Santiago, in order to purchaſe
flour, charqui, graffa, and other neceffaries for the
garrifon at Valdivia. Theſe remittances are conveyed
in fhips which fail from Valparaifo.
I. THE juriſdiction of Santiago we have already ob-
ferved to be limited to its boundaries.
II. RANCAGUA is a jurifdiction in the country, and
owes its name from the inhabitants living in fingle
houſes, without the appearance of a village, every
family in their lonely cottage four, fix, or more
leagues from each other. It is not, however, without
a kind of capital, confifting of about fifty houſes,
and between fifty and fixty families, moſt of them
Meftizos, tho' their cafts is not at all perceivable by
their complection. The whole juriſdiction may con-
tain about a thouſand families, Spaniards, Meftizos,
and Indians.
III. COLCHAGUA refembles in every circumftance
the former, except its being better peopled; its inha-
habitants according to the beft computations, a-
mounting to fifteen hundred families.
IV. CHILLAN is a ſmall place, but has the title of
city, the number of families, by an accurate calcula-
tion not exceeding two or three hundred, and hav-
ing few Spaniards among them.
V. ACONCAGUA is a very fmall place at the foot of
the mountains, but the country is interſperſed with
a great number of fingle houfes. The valley of the
fame name is fo delightful, that a town called Phelipe
le Real, was built in it, in 1741.
VI. MELIPILLA made no better figure than the
Foregoing juriſdictions, till the year 1742, when a
town was erected in it by the name of St. Jofeph de
Longronno.
VII QUILLOTA. The town of this name does not
contain
!
CH. VIII.
SOUTH AMERICA.
265
contain above a hundred families; but thoſe ſcattered
over the country exceed a thouſand.
VIII. COQUIMBO, or la Serena, according to fa-
ther Fevillee, ftands in 24° 54' 10" fouth latitude.
This was the fecond town built in the kingdom of
Chili, in 1544, by Pedro de Valdivia, with a view of
fecuring the intercourſe between Peru and Chili, for
the more convenient fupply of what fuccours might
be wanted; and at the fame time, for fecuring the
fidelity of the Indians who lived in that valley. This
place is fituated in the valley of Cuquimpo, from
whence it received its original name; but Valdivia
gave it that of la Serena, from an affection to the
province of that name in Spain, and of which he
was a native. It stands about a quarter of a league
from the coaſt of the fouth-fea in a moft delightful
fituation, having an extenſive proſpect of the ſea, the
river, and the country, which prefents the fight with a
charming variety of fields of different kinds of grain,
and woods of a lively verdure.
THIS town is of itſelf large, but not proportionally
peopled; the number of families not amounting to
above four or five hundred, confifting of Spaniards,
Meſtizos, and a few Indians. The ftreets are ſtrait
and of a convenient breadth, fome of which lying N.
and S. and others interfecting from E. to W. the
town confifts of fquares of buildings, like Santiago,
and other places of note in this part of America.
The houſes are all of mud walls, and covered with
leaves; but none are without a large garden, well
planted with fruit trees and efculent vegetables, both
thoſe of America and Spain; for the climate is hap-
pily adapted to a variety of both kinds, the heats not
being exceffive, nor the cold 'fevere; ſo that both in
the fertility of the earth, and the chearful appearance
of the country, the whole year wears an aſpect of one
perpetual ſpring. The ſtreets, though regular and
Convenient as abovementioned, are not entirely formed
by
266
A VOYAGE TO Book II.
✓
:
by the houſes, parts of the intervals between the fe-
veral fquares being filled up with gardens; and moſt
of them have fo charming an appearance, as to attone
for the mean afpect of the houfes.
BESIDES parish churches, here is a Francifcan, a Do-
minican, and an Auguftine convent; one belonging to
the fathers of mercy, another to St. Juan de Dios; and
a college of Jefuits. The churches of thefe religious
fraternities are large and decent. The parish church.
occupies part of one fide of the great fquare; and
oppoſite is the town-houfe, where the alcaldes and
regidores meet, who with the corregidor form the
corporation.
ÔN the N. fide of Coquimbo runs the river, after
Rowing in various meanders thro' the whole valley of
the fame name; and by canals cut from it, furnishes
the town with water, one great ufe of which is to
preferve the beauty of their gardens,
IX. COPIAPO is about twelve leagues from the
fea-coaft, very irregularly built, but contains be-
tween three and four hundred families. The fea-
port neareſt to it is that known by the fame name.
There is indeed another port in this jurifdiction; but
it lies thirty leagues farther to the S. and confifts only
of a few huts.
X. MENDOSA. The town of this name is fituated on
the eaſtern fide of the cordillera, at the diſtance of
about fifty leagues from Santiago. It ftands on a
plain, and is decorated with gardens in the fame
manner as Coquimbo, and the place being well fup-
plied with water by means of canals, no care is
wanting to keep them in their greateſt beauty. The
town confifts of about an hundred families, half
Spaniards or whites, and the other half cafts. It
has befides a decent parish church, a Francifcan,
Dominican and Auguftine convent, together with a
college of Jefuits. This jurifdiction has alfo two
other towns, that of St. Juan de la Frontera, like,
wife
CH. VIII.
267
SOUTH AMERICA.
wife to the eastward of the cordillera, and about
thirty leagues N. of Mendoza, and St. Luis de Loyola,
about fifty leagues eastward of Mendoza. The latter
however is mean and fmall, not containing above
twenty five houſes, and fifty or fixty families, Spaniſh
and cafts; tho' many more are ſcattered up and down
the neighbouring country. In fuch a fmall place it
is ſomething remarkable to ſee a parish church, a do-
minican convent, and a college of Jefuits. Here
the preſidents of Chili are received as governors of
it, in their way to Chili from Buenos Ayres, this
being the firſt place in their government on that fide.
The town of St. Juan de la Frontera is, in every reſpect
equal to Mendoza itſelf.
XI. THE jurifdiction of Conception is the laft C
but having already given an account of it, I fhall
proceed to confider the commerce carried on by the
kingdom of Chili with Peru, Buenos Ayres, Para-
guay, and its own towns; and fubjoin an account of
that carried on with the wild Indians bordering on
it, with the manner of maintaining a harmony with
theſe ſavage people. In the mean time I fhall con-
clude this chapter with obferving, that the corregi,
dors of the whole jurifdiction are nominated by the
king, except thofe of Rancagua, Melepilla, and
Quillota, who are appointed by the prefident of
Chili. This is indeed the cafe of all the others,
when a corregidor happens to die, before a perfon
is nominated to fucceed him; but the office of theſe
corregidors being only for five years, the prolonga-
tion muſt be by his majefty's exprefs order. The
inhabitants are formed into companies of militia,
and every one knows the place of arms to which he
is to repair on any alarm. Thus to Valparaifo be-
longs the companies of militia of Santiago, Quil-
lota, Melipilla, Aconcagua, and Rancagua; and
thefe in all amount to between two or three thou-
fand men, and are formed into troops and compa-.
i..
nies.
268
Book II.
A VOYAGE TO
}
nies. Rancagua, when Santiago and Colchagua are
threatned, is alfo to fend fuccours thither; and the
fame duty lies on Chillan with regard to Conception.
In theſe cafes notice is conveyed with fuch diſpatch,
that they are ſpeedily at their rendezvous, all they
have to do, being to mount their horfes and repair
to their ſtation with the ufual pace ufed in that coun-
try, which is always a gallop; and thus the militia
of this country may be faid to ride poft to the parts
where danger calls them.
CHAP. IX.
Commerce of CHILI. Methods used to keep up a
good Harmony with the wild Indians.
}
N my defcription of the city of Conception, I
mentioned the inchanting beauties of the neigh-
bouring countries; and the exuberant returns of na-
ture for the hufbandman's toil. The like profufion
of natural productions is feen all over this kingdom.
Its plains, eminences, valleys, in fhort the whole
country to the ſmalleſt portion of ground is an ob-
ject of admiration. Every particle of earth, in this
amazing fertility, feems transformed in feed. The
country round Santiago, as it is not inferior in plea
fantnefs and fertility to that of Conception; fo alfo
from the great affinity to the climates, its products
are nearly the fame. Accordingly fome farmers
wholly apply themſelves to corn, others to fattening
of cattle; fome confine themſelves to the breeding
of horfes, and others to the culture of vines and
fruit trees. The firft find their account in plentiful
harveſts of wheat, barley, and particularly in hemp,
which thrives here furprizingly, and furpaffes thoſe
of the former. The fecond at their large flaughters,
have great quantities of tallow, graffa, charqui, and.
}
1
fole
१
CH. IX.
SOUTH AMERICA. 269
t
fole leather tanned. Of the goat ſkins is made Cor-
dovan leather; fome tallow is alſo procured from
thoſe creatures. Wines are made here of feveral
forts, and tho' not fo excellent as thofe of Concep-
tion, they are very palatable and of a good body;
brandy is alſo diſtilled from them. Theſe are the
principal articles of the active commerce of this
kingdom with Peru, which it fupplies with wheat,
tallow, and cordage; and by the moſt careful efti-
mate, the quantity of wheat fent annually from San-
tiago to Callao, amounts to 140,000 Tanegas, each
weighing one hundred and fifty fix pounds; about
eight thouſand quintals of cordage; and between fix-
teen and twenty thoufand quintals of tallow : beſides
fole leather, nuts, filberts, figs, pears, and apples;
Graffa, Charqui, and neat tongues: the three laft
being no inconfiderable articles.
THE more northern parts of the kingdom, as
Coquimbo, produce olives, the oil of which is pre-
ferable to that of many parts of Peru; but being a
natural commodity of that kingdom, and confequently,
not an article of exportation, is confumed at home. The
country about Santiago, likewiſe, produces good olives;
but in no great quantity, the genius of the inhabitants
having not hitherto led them to make large plantations
of thoſe trees.
BESIDES the Commerce carried on with Peru in pro-
vifions, there is that of metals, this kingdom abound-
ing in mines of all kinds, but principally of gold and
copper, which we ſhall briefly confider.
THE moft famous gold mine known in Chili, is call-
`ed Petorca, and lies in a country E. of Santiago. This
gold was formerly highly efteemed, and found in
great
plenty; but now on account of a whitifh tinge, the va-
lue of it is confiderably diminished. This mine for
the length of time it has been worked, is equal to the
moft celebrated in Peru.
In the country of Yapel, which is fituated in the
fame
070
A VOYAGE TO BOOK II.
fame quarter, but farther to the northward along
the cordillera, are alfo rich gold mines, and the metal
twenty-three carats fine. In 1710, in the mountains.
of Lumpanqui near the cordillera, were diſcovered
mines of gold, filver, copper, lead, tin, and iron,
the gold between twenty one and twenty two carats
fine; but the working from the hardness of the ftone,
where, according to the miner's phraſe, "the metal
arms," was very difficult and laborious. This incon-
venience does not however occur in 'the mountain
Llaoin, where the ftone is foft, and not lefs rich in
metal, equal in fineness to the former. Befides theſe
there are other gold mines, worked with good fuccefs
at Tiltil, near Santiago.
BETWIXT Quillota and Valparaifo, in a part called
Ligua, is a very rich gold mine, and the metal greatly
efteemed. Coquimbo, Capiapo, and Guafco, have
alfo gold mines, and the metal found in the two laſt,
is, by way of pre-eminence, called Oro Capote, being
the moft valuable of any yet difcovered. Another
kind of mines of the fame metal has alfo been found
in this kingdom; but theſe were exhauſted almoſt as
foon as they were opened. Mines of this kind are
very common, as well as another kind called Lava-
deros *, moſt of which are between Valparaifo and
Las Pennuelas, and about a league from the former.
Some of them are alfo found at Yapel, on the fron-
tiers of the wild Indians, and near Conception. Theſe,
together with the others known in this kingdom,
yield gold duft. Sometimes indeed lumps of gold
of confiderable magnitude are found; and the hopes
of diſcovering thefe animate many to work the
mines.
•
* Theſe Lavaderos are pits dug in the angles of ravins or
trenches made by rain, and in which it is imagined there may be
gold; and in order to diſcover the metal, a ftream of water is turned
through it, and the earth briskly fpread, that the gold may be car-
ried down with the current, and depofited in the pits.
ALL
2
C. XI.
271
SOUTH AMERICA.
1.
ALL the gold thus collected in Chili is bought
up in the country, and fent to Lima to be coined,
there being no mint in Chili; and by the accounts
conftantly taken, it amounts one year with another
to fix hundred thousand dollars; but that clande-
ftinely fent by way of the cordillera is faid to be
nearly four hundred thouſand. Confequently the
whole muſt be at leaſt a million. In the countries of
Coquimbo and Guafco mines of all kinds of metals
are ſo very common, that the whole earth feems'
wholly compofed of minerals; and it is here thoſe
of copper are worked, and from them all Peru and
the kingdom of Chili are furniſhed with that metal.
But though this copper exceeds every thing of the
kind hitherto known, the mines are worked with
great caution, and no more metal extracted than
is fufficient to anſwer the ufual demand; and other
mines, though known to be equally rich, are left
untouched.
In exchange for the grain, fruits, provifions, and
metals, which Chili fends to Peru, it receives iron,
cloth, and linen made at Quito, hats, bays, though
not many of the latter, there being manufactures
of the fame kind in Chili, fugar, cacao, fweetmeats,
pickles, tobacco, oil, earthen ware, and all kinds
of European goods. A fmall commerce is alſo
carried on between the kingdom of Chili, Para-
guay and Buenos Ayres, of which the latter is the
ftaple. The products of Paraguay, which indeed
confift only in its herb and wax, are carried thither,
then forwarded to Chili, whence the herb is exported
to Peru. Large quantities of tallow are alfo fent to
Mendoza for making of foap. In exchange for theſe
commodities Chili fends to Buenos Ayres linen and
woollen ftuffs, fome of which are imported from
Peru, and others manufactured in the country:
alfo Ponchos, fugar, fnuff, wine and brandy, the
two last the traders chiefly buy at San Juan, as moſt
con-
272
A VOYAGE TO
-
J
}
Book II.
convenient for tranfportation. During the affiento
for negroes, they are ufually brought to Chili from
the factory at Buenos Ayres, the way of Peru be-
ing attended with great inconveniences; as in their
journey from Panama, they take an opportunity of
concealing themſelves among the farm-houfes; fo
that what with the great expence, and the numbers
who die during their long rout, by the variety of cli-
mates, their purchafe muft confequently be very high.
THE home commerce of Chili, or that carried on
within itſelf, chiefly confifts in the provifions fent to
Valdivia to the amount of ten thousand dollars, which
as the deducted part of its remittance are fent from
Lima to Santiago for that purpoſe. Valdivia fur-
niſhes the reſt of the places with cedar. Chiloe pur-
chafe from the other parts brandy, wine, honey, fugar,
the Paraguay herb, falt and Guinea-pepper; and re-
turns to Valparaifo and Conception, feveral kinds of
fine wood, in which the iſland abounds; alfo woollen
ftuffs of the country manufacture, made into ponchos,
cloaks, quilts, and the like; together with hams,
which from the particular delicacy of the flavour are
in great requeſt even in Peru, and dried pilchards, the
bay and coaft of that ifland being the only places in
the fouth-fea where the fiſh are caught.
COQUIMBO fends copper to Valparaifo; for tho' all
parts of the Cordillera, towards Santiago and Con-
ception, abound in mines of that metal, and particu-
larly a place called Payen, where ſeveral were formerly
worked, and where maffes of fifty or a hundred quin-
tals of pure copper have been found, yet as thefe mines
are now no longer worked, the whole country is under
a neceffity of receiving their copper from the Co-
quimbo and Guafco mines; fending thither in ex-
change cordovan leather and foap, made at Mendoza,
from whence it is carried to Santiago, and thence fold
to different parts of the kingdom.
HAVING thus confidered the trade of Chili in both
1
par
CH. IX.
273
SOUTH AMERICA
particulars, I fhall next proceed to mention that car-
ried on with the wild Indians, and this confifts in
felling them hard ware, as bits, fpurs, and edge
tools; alſo toys, and ſome wine. All this is done by
barter; for though the countries they inhabit are not
deftitute of gold, the Indians cannot be prevailed upon
to open the mines; fo that the returns conſiſt in
Ponchos, horned cattle, horſes of their own breeding,
and Indian children of both ſexes, which are fold even
by their own parents for ſuch trifles; and this parti-
cular kind of traffick, they call refcatar, ranſoming.
But no Spaniard of any character will be concerned
in fuch barbarous exchanges, being carried on only
by the Guafos, and the meaneft clafs of Spaniards
fettled in Chili. Theſe boldly venture into the parts
inhabited by the Indians, and addreſs themſelves to
the heads of the ſeveral families.
THE Indians of Arauco, and thoſe parts, are not
governed by Caciques, or. Curacas, like thoſe of
Peru, the only fubordination known among them
being with regard to age, fo that the oldeſt perſon of
the family is reſpected as its governor. The Spaniard
begins his negociation with offering the chief of the
family a cup of his wine. After this he diſplays his
wares, that the Indian may make choice of what beſt
pleaſes him; mentioning at the fame time the return
he expects. If they agree, the Spaniard makes him a
prefent of a little wine; and the Indian chief in-
forms the community that they are at liberty to trade
with that Spaniard as his friend. Relying on this pro-
tection, the Spaniard goes from hut to hut, recom-
mending himſelf at first by giving the head of every
family a taſte of his wine. After this they enter upon
buſineſs, and the Indian having taken what he want-
ed, the trader goes away without receiving any equi-
valent at that time, and vifits the other huts, as they
lie diſperſed all over the country, till he has dif-
pofed of his ſtock. He then returns to the cottage of
VOL. II.
T
the
274
Book II.
A VOYAGE TO
J
the chief, calling on his customers in his way, and ac-
quainting them that he is on his return home. Upon
this fummons, not one fails of bringing him to the
chief's hut, what had been agreed on. Here they
take their leave of him, with all the appearance of a
fincere friendſhip, and the chief even orders fome
Indians to efcort him to the frontiers, and affift him
in driving the cattle he has received in exchange for
his goods.
FORMERLY, and even till the year 1724, theſe
traders carried large quantities of wine, of which, as
well as of all other inebriating liquors, the Indians
are immoderately fond; but on account of the tu-
mults and wars that arofe from the intemperate ufe
of fpirituous liquors, this branch of trade has been
fuppreffed, and no more wine allowed to be carried
into the Indian territories, than what fhall be judged
neceffary to give the mafters of families a cup by way
of compliment, and a very fmall quantity for trading.
The happy effects of this prohibition are felt on both
fides; the Spaniards live in fafety, and the Indians in
peace and tranquility. They are very fair dealers,
never receding from what has been agreed on, and
punctual in their payments. It is indeed furpriz-
ing that a whole people, who are almoſt ſtrangers
to government, and favage in their manners, fhould,
amidſt the uncontrouled gratification of the moft enor-
mous vices, have fo delicate a fenfe of juſtice, as tợ
obferve it in the moft irreproachable manner in their
dealings.
ALL the Indians of Arauco, Tucapel, and, others
inhabiting the more fouthern parts of the banks of the
river Biobio, and alfo thofe who live near the cordil-
lera, have hitherto fruftrated all attempts made for re-
ducing them under the Spanish government. For in
this boundleſs country, as it may be called, when
ftrongly pushed, they abandon their huts, and retire
into the more diftant parts of the kingdom, where
being
CH. IX.
275
SOUTH AMERICA.
being joined by other nations, they return in fuch
numbers, that all refiftance would be temerity, and
again take poffeffion of their former habitations.
Thus Chili has always been expofed to their infults;
and if a very few only call for a war again't the Spa-
niards, the flame immediately ſpreads, and their mea-
fures are taken with ſuch ſecrecy, that the first declara-
tion of it is, the murder of thoſe who happen to be
among them, and the ravages of the neighbouring
villages. Their firſt ſtep, when a war is agreed on, is,
to give notice to the nations for affembling; and this
they call Correa la Fletcha, to ſhoot the dat, the
fummons being fent from village to village, with the
utmoſt filencé and rapidity. In thefe notices they fpe-
tify the night when the irruption is to be made, and
tho' advice of it is fent to the Indians who refide in the
Spaniſh territories, nothing tranſpires: nor is there a
fingle inftance, among all the Indians that have been
taken up on fufpicion, that one ever made any diſco-
very. And as no great armaments are neceffary in this
kind of war, their defigns continue impenetrable till the
terrible executions withdraw the veil.
THE Indians of the ſeveral nations being affembled,
a general is chofen, with the title of Toqui; and
when the nights fixed on for executing their defigns
arrives, the Indians who live among the Spaniards,
rife and maffacre them. After which they divide
themſelves into fmall parties, and deftroy the feats,
farm-houſes and villages, murdering all without the
leaft regard to youth or age. Theſe parties afterwards
unite, and in a body attack the larger fettlements of
the Spaniards, befiege the forts, and commit every
kind of hoftility; and their vaft numbers, rather than
any difcipline, have enabled them, on feveral occafions,
to carry on their enterprizes with fuccefs, notwith-
ftanding all the meaſures taken by the panifh gover
nors to prevent them. For tho' multitudes of them
fall on thefe occafions, their army continually receives
larger
I z
276
A VOYAGE TO BOOK II.
larger reinforcements. If at any time the Spaniards
gain the fuperiority, the Indians retire to the diſtance
of feveral leagues, where after concealing themfelves
a few days, they fuddenly fall on a different part from
that where they were encamped, endavouring to carry
the place by a fudden affault, unleſs the commandant's
vigilance has provided againſt any ſudden ſurprize;
when, by the advantage of the Spaniſh difcipline, they
are generally repulfed with great flaughter.
THESE Indian wars againſt the Spaniards uſually
continue fome years, being of little detriment to the
Indians; for most of their occupations which confift
in the culture of a fmall fpot of ground, and weaving
ponchos and cloaks for apparel, are carried on by the
women. Their huts are built in a day or two, and
their food confifts of roots, maize, and other grain.
War therefore, is no impediment or lofs to them; in-
deed they rather confider it as a defirable occupation,
their hours at other times being ſpent in idleness, or
carouſals, in which they drink chicha, a liquor common
among them, and made from apples.
THE firft advances towards a treaty of peace with
theſe Indians are generally made by the Spaniards; and
as foon as the propofals are agreed to, a congreſs is
held, at which the governor, major-general of Chili,
and the principal officers, the bishop of Conception,
and other perfons of eminence affift. On the part of
the Indians the toqui, or generaliffimo, and the
captains of his army, as reprefentatives of the commu-
nities, repair to the congrefs. The laſt inroad made by
theſe favage enemies, was in the year 1720, during
the government of Don Gabriel Cano, lieutenant ge-
neral of his majefty's forces, who managed the war
againſt them with ſuch vigour and addrefs; that they
were obliged to folicit a peace; and their preliminaries
were fo fubmiffive, that at a congrefs held in 1724,
the peace was concluded, whereby they were left in
poffeffion of all the country fouth of the river Biobio;
and
CH. IX.
277
SOUTH AMERICA.
and the Capitanes de Paz were fuppreffed. Theſe were
Spaniards refiding in the villages of the converted In-
dians, and by their exactions had been the principal
cauſe of the revolt.
BESIDES the congreffes held with theſe Indians, for
concluding a treaty of peace, others are held on the
arrival of a new prefident, and the fame ceremonies
obferved in both; fo that an account of the one will
be fufficient to give a juft idea of the other.
ON the holding a congrefs, the prefident fends
notice to the frontier Indians of the day and place,
whither he repairs with the abovementioned perfons;
and on the part of the Indians, the heads of their ſe-
veral communities; and both, for the greater ſplendor
of the interview, are accompanied by an efcort con-
fifting of a certain number previoufly agreed on. The
prefident and his company lodge in tents, and the
Indians incamp at a fmall diftance. The elders or
chiefs of the neighbouring nations pay the firft vifit to
the prefident, who receives them very courteouſly,
drinks their healths in wine, and himſelf gives them
the glaſs to do the like. This politenefs, with which
they are highly pleafed, is fucceeded by a prefent of
knives, fciffars, and different forts of toys, on which
they place the greateft value. The treaty of
The treaty of peace is
then brought on the carpet, and the manner of ob-
ferving the feveral articles is fettled: after which they
return to their camp, and the prefident returns the
vifit, carrying with him a quantity of wine fufficient
for a moderate regale.
Now all the chiefs of the other communities, who
were not prefent at the firft vifit, go in a body to
pay their refpects to the prefident. At the rifing of
the congrefs, the prefident makes each a fmall pretent
of wine, which the Indians liberally return in calves,
oxen, horfes, and fowls. After thefe reciprocal
tokens of friendship, both parties return to their re-
ſpective habitations.
T 3
IN
278
A VOYAGE TO Book II.
In order to gain more effectually the hearts of theſe
Indians, who, tho' in our efteem wretchedly poor,
conceal the most stubborn pride, which can only be
foftened by compliments and favours, it is a maxim
with the prefidents to admit to their table thoſe who are
apparently of the beſt difpofitions, and during the three
or four days of the congrefs, neglects no means of in-
gratiating himſelf with the whole body. On thefe oc-
cafions a kind of fair is held at both camps, great num-
bers of Spaniards repairing thither with fuch goods as
they know will pleaſe the Indians, who alſo come with
their ponchos and cattle. Both parties deal by ex-
change, and never fail of felling their whole ftocks;
and of obferving in their dealings the most exact
candour and regularity, as a fpecimen in which all
future commerce is to be conducted.
THO' thefe Indians have fhewn fuch a determined
averfion to fubmitting to the Spaniſh monarchs, their
behaviour has been very different to the miffionaries,
whom they voluntarily permitted to come among
them; and many have even fhewed the greateft joy
at being baptized. But it is extreanly difficult to pre-
vail on them to quit their free manner of living;
which being productive of vice and favagenefs, pre-
poffefs the mind against the precepts of the chriftian,
religion. Before the war of the year 1723, the miffio-
naries, by their indefatigable zeal, had formed feveral
villages, hoping by that means to induce their con-
yerts to practife the doctrines of the chriftian faith.
Thefe villages were called St. Chriftover, Santo Fè,
Santa Juana, St. Pedro, and La Mocha, all of them
being under the infpection of the Jefuits. The
chaplains alfo of the forts on the frontiers had an ad-
ditional falary for inftructing a certain number of
Indians. But on that general infurrection, their in-
nate lavagenefs returned, all theſe converts abandon-
ed the miffionaries and joined their countrymen. On
the re-eſtabliſhment of the peace, they again follicited
the
CH. IX.
279
SOUTH AMERICA.
the miffionaries to come among them; and fome
communities have been fince formed; but they are far
fhort of their former promifing ftate, it being very
difficult to bring even this fmall number to embrace
a focial life.
AMIDST all the fanguinary rage of theſe Indians in
their hoftilities against the Spaniards, they generally
ſpare the white women, carrying them to their huts,
and ufing them as their own. And hence it is, that
many Indians of thoſe nations have the complexions
of the Spaniards born in that country. In time of
peace many of them come into the Spaniſh territories.
hiring themſelves for a certain time to work at the
farm houfes, and at the expiration of the term return
home, after laying out their wages in the purchaſe of
fuch goods as are valued in their country. All of
them, both men and women, wear the poncho and
manta, which they weave of wool, and tho' it cannot
properly be called a dreſs, is abundantly fufficient for
decency; whereas the Indians at a greater diſtance
from the Spanish frontiers, as thoſe who inhabit the
countries fouth of Valdivia, and the Chonos, who
live on the continent near Chiloe, ufe no fort of ap-
parel. The Indians of Arauco, Tucapel and other
tribes near the river Biobio, take great delight in
riding, and their armies have fome bodies of horſe.
Their weapons are large fpears, javelins, &c. in the
ufe of which they are very dextrous.
CHAP. X.
Voyage from CONCEPTION to the Island of JUAN
FERNANDES; and from thence to VALPARAISO.
TH
THE fhips being come to an anchor in the port
of Talcaguano, we waited on Don Pedro de
Mendinueta, at the city of Conception, who informed
T 4
Us
280
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
us that the commodore Don Jofeph Pizarro, together
with the land and fea officers, were arrived at Santia-
go, and that he intended to fet out for Valparaiſo, in
order to hoift his flag on board the Efperanza, and
take upon him the command of that ſquadron. On
receiving this intelligence, and having no orders to
continue at Conception, we put to fea on the fixth of
February, and ſteering for the place of our deſtination,
made, on the 20th, the iſland de Tierra de Juan Fer-
nandes, and at half an hour after ten, as we were
plying to windward along the coaft, and ftanding to-
wards the island which then bore two leagues weft
from us, we faw on the top of one of the mountains
a bright light, which furprized us the more, as on
the following day we faw no traces of any ſhip's being
in the port fince we left it. I had a clear view of it
from the inſtant it began, and obſerved that at firſt
it was very ſmall, and increaſed, ſo as to form a flame
like that of a flambeau. The full vigour of its light
lafted about three or four minutes, when it diminiſhed
in the fame gradual manner it had increaſed. It did
not appear again all the next night, nor had we during
the whole time we were at an anchor in the port, any
view of fuch a phænomenon We fent fome of our
people on fhore to examine all the mountains, and
other parts of the iſland, and they ſpent feveral
nights on that and the adjacent mountains, but could
not diſcover the leaſt veftige of any fire. As I knew the
ifland to be abfolutely deftitute, the fanguine colour*
of the flame, inclined me to think there might be
fome volcano; but having never feen any thing of
that kind before, nor heard from others that there
was ever any eruption, I was far from being tenacious.
of my opinion. We had indeed all our conjectures.;
but the difficulty was not cleared up till my fifth and
laft voyage to this ifland, when Don Jofeph Pizarro,
fent fome people on fhore to take an accurate furvey
of this place, and the ground was found to be burnt,
2
full
CH. X.
SOUTH AMERICA. 281
full of fiffures and hot, which verified my firſt opinion
of a volcano.
ON the 21ft after coafting along this iſland, we
continued our courfe for Valparaiſo, where our little
fquadron came to an anchor on the 24th, and were the
more pleaſed as we found there the prefident of San-.
tiago, Don Jofeph Manfo, and our commodore;
and in the harbour, befides the Callao fleet, three
French fhips, called the Louis Erafme, Notre Dame
de la Delivrance, and the Lys, which had been
freighted by four merchants as regifter fhips; and
Valparaifo was the firft port they had touched at, for
vending their cargoes.
FROM ſeveral obfervations made in this harbour by
Don George Juan, in the laft voyage of 1744, its la-
titude appears to be 33° 02′ 36″ 30'' and father Fe-
villee fettled its longitude at 304° 11′ 45″ from the
meridian of Teneriff. This town was at firſt very
mean, conſiſting only of a few warehouſes built by the
inhabitants of Santiago for laying up their goods till
ſhipped off for Callao, the harbour of Valparaifo being
the neareſt port to that city, from which it is only
twenty leagues diftant, tho' the natives will have it to
be more.
The only inhabitants at that time were the
few fervants left by their refpective maſters for taking
care of the warehouſes, and managing their mercan-
tile affairs. But in procefs of time, the merchants
themſelves, together with feveral other families, re-
moved from Santiago, in order to be more conveni-
ently fituated for trade; fince which it has gradually
increaſed, ſo that at prefent it is both large and po-
pulous; and would be ftill larger were it not for its
inconvenient fituation, ſtanding fo near the foot of a
mountain, that a great part of the houſes are built on
its acclivity, or in its breaches. The broadeſt and
moſt convenient part is that along the coaft; but this
is very unpleaſant in winter, being fo expofed to the
N..winds, that the waves beat againſt the walls of the
houſes,
282
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
houfes, fome of which are built of unburnt bricks,
fome of chalk and pebbles, and others of bajareques.
VALPARAISO, befides its parish church, has a
convent of Francifcans, and another of Auguftines;
but very few religious, and the churches belonging to
them fmall and mean. It is inhabited by families of
Spaniards, and Cafts, both Mulattoes, and Meſtizos.
In its neighbourhood are feveral villages, and the great
number of farm houfes give the country a chearful
appearance. Here is a military governor nominated
by the king, who having the command of the
garrisons in the feveral ports, and of the militia of the
place and its dependences, is to take care that they
are properly difciplined.
THE proximity of this port to Santiago has drawn
hither all the commerce formerly carried on at that
city. To this it owes its foundation, increafe, and
prefent profperity. At prefent all the Callao fhips
which carry on the commerce between the two king-
doms come hither. The cargoes they bring are indeed
but farall, confifting only of the goods already then-
tioned, as not produced in Chili. But in this port
they take in wheat, tallow, cordovan leather, cordage,
and dried fruits, and with thefe return to Callao;
and a fhip has been known to make three voyages in
one fummer, namely, between November and June,
during which interval, the droves of mules and carriages
from all the farm houfes in the jurifdiction of San-
tiago, bring fresh fupplies to the warehouſes, that
trade is carried on both by land and fea. The mafters
of fhips, who generally refide at Lima or Callao, enter
into partnerſhip with the landed' gentlemen of Chili,
that the cargo of every fhip generally belongs in part
to the mafter; tho' fome fhips are freighted, and if
the loading be wheat, greatly augments its value;
for the fanega cofts here only ten or twelve, rials,
or two dollars, and the freight is from twelve rials
to two piafters. Another circumftance which raifes
the
CH. X.
283
SOUTH AMERICA.
the price of wheat at Callao, where it is fold for twenty-
four or thirty rials is, that the fanega is there only
five arobas, and five pounds, whereas at Chili the
fanega is fix arobas and fix pounds.
THIS Commerce being carried on only in fummer,
that feafon may be termed the fair of Valparaifo; but
on the approach of winter the place becomes as re-
markably defolate, the crowd of traders repairing to
Santiago, thofe only continuing at Valparaifo, who
cannot afford to remove.
VALPARAISO is abundantly fupplied with provifions
from Santiago, and other places in its neighbourhood;
but ſhips do not victual here fo cheap as at Concep-
tion. The fruits cannot be viewed without admira-
tion, both with regard to their beauty and fize, par-
ticularly a fort of apples called Quillota, being brought
from that place; they prodigiouſly exceed the largeſt
in Spain, and befides their exquifite flavour, are ſo
Jufcious that they melt in the mouth.
AMONG the feveral kinds of game, there is here
fuch a plenty of partridges in their feafon, which be-
gins at March and lafts. feveral fucceeding months,
that the Santiago muliteers knock them down with
fticks without going out of the road, and bring great
numbers of them to Valparaifo. But few of thefe or
any other birds are feen near the town. It is the fame
with regard to fish, very little being to be caught
either in the harbour or along the coaft, in compariſon
of what may be taken in the other parts.
THE Coaft of Valparaifo forms a bay, lying N. E.
and S. W. three leagues in length, and having two
capes called Concon, and Valparaifo. In the S. W.
part of this bay is the harbour, of a convenient fize,
and running above a league farther up the country:
The bottom is, a firm tenacious mud. At the diftance
of a cable's length and a half from the fhore, is from
fourteen to fixteen fathom water, which increaſes, in
depth proportional to the diftance, that at the diftance
of
284
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
of half a league there is thirty-fix or forty fathom.
The harbour is every where free from rocks and fhoals,
except to the N. E. of the breach de los Angeles,
where, about a cable's length or two from the land
is a rock, which must be the more carefully avoided,
as it never appears above water, but fometimes has
not a depth fufficient for a fhip of any burden to
pafs over it. The courfe into this harbour is to keep
near the point of Valparaifo, within a quarter of a
league from the ſhore, where there is twenty, eighteen,
and fixteen fathom water. After getting round the
point you muft ftand nearer to the fhore, in order
to avoid a bank, which lies thereabouts. Not, that
it can be attended with any danger, for the fide of
it is fo bold, that if the fhip fhould touch it little
damage could enfue. This bank is always above
water, and there is a neceffity for paffing fo near
it, in order to keep to windward, as otherwiſe it
would be difficult to fetch the harbour. Regard
muſt alſo be had to the time proper for entering the
port of Valparaifo; for it is by no means proper to
attempt it in the morning, as the wind tho' blowing
freſh without does not then extend fo far into the
bay, and thus the fhip, by having very little way,
and, confequently not anſwering her helm, might
drive upon the bank; and to let go your anchor in
fifty fathom water, which is the depth cloſe to the
fand, will be very inconvenient. The common me-
thod therefore is, to keep in the offing till about
noon, or fomething after, when the wind ufually
continues to the bottom of the harbour; and then by
obferving the abovementioned rules, the fhip will
fall into her ftation without any difficulty. Or you
may run into the bay and there come to an anchor,
till the day following, and then weigh early and go
in with the land breeze, here called Concon, as
blowing from that point; and this breeze may be
depended on every day at a certain hour, except dur-
ing
CH. X.
285
SOUTH AMERICA:
1
ing the time of the N. winds, which caufe fome altera-
tion in it.
THE ſafeſt method of mooring ſhips is lying one an-
chor on the ſhore towards the S. S. W. and another in
the channel towards the N. N. W. The former muft
be well fecured, as the reſource againſt the S. and S.W.
winds; for though they come over the land, they are
often fo violent, and the ſhore of the harbour fo floping,
that the ſhips would otherwiſe drive.
As foon as the north winds fet in, which happens
in the month of April and May, the veffels in the
harbour are expofed to their whole violence, which
alfo caufes a very high fea. In this exigence, the
whole fecurity of the fhips depends on the anchor and
cable towards the N. N. E. it will therefore be very
proper to lay another in the fame direction; for if
it fhould give way, it would be impoffible to hinder
the ſhip from ſtriking on the rocks near the ſhore.
The only favourable circumftance here is, that the
bottom being very firm, and riſing towards the fhore,
the anchor has good hold; and confequently the whole
depends on the ſtrength of the cable.
CHAP. XI.
Voyage from VALPARAISO to CALLAO; Jecond
return to QUITO to finish the obfervations;
third Journey to LIMA, in order to return to
SPAIN by the way of CAPE HORN.
T
HE fervice our fquadron was employed on, be-
ing that of cruiſing in thoſe feas, in queft of
the enemy as long as it should be thought requifite,
the commodore, without ftaying any longer than was
abfolutely neceſſary, came on board, and we imme-
diately
286
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
diately put to fea, and feveral times vifited the iſlands
of Juan Fernandes, till the 24th of June, 1743, when
we fhaped our courfe for Callao, which port we entered
on the 6th of July. The day following the commo-
dore and principal officers went on fhore, and were
received by Don Jofeph de Llamas, general of the
forces in Peru, and governor of Callao; who, on ac-
count of the firft employment, refides at Lima, but
was come to Callao to compliment the commodore.
He attended him to Lima, and introduced him to the
vice-roy, who expreffed his great fatisfaction at his ſafe
arrival after fuch long expectations. He was alfo met
on the road by the principal perfons of the city.
AFTER taking our departure from the island de
Tierra de Juan Fernandes, we fteered the three firft
days N. N. E. and N. E. one quarter northerly, hav-
ing fresh gales at W. and a heavy fea from the
S. W. When we came into the latitude of 28°,
we fteered N. fix or feven degrees eafterly, till the
third day at nine in the morning, when being in the
latitude of 16°, 28', we made the land on the coaft
of Chala; and the day following, being the 4th,
the iſland of Sangallan, which at noon bore E. N. E.
diftance fix leagues. We then coafted along the
fhore; and on the 5th at noon we faw the ifle of
Afia, bearing E. N. E. fix leagues diftant; and on
the 6th as before mentioned, the fquadron came to an
anchor at half an hour after one in the afternoon, in
Callao harbour.
HENCE it appears, that till we were in the latitude
of 28°, 30', the wind was at S. W. which agrees
with my obfervations mentioned Chap. III. relating
to this fea; and if no other circumftance concurred
to verify them, it muſt be imputed to the feafon of
the year, it being the beginning of winter when we
returned to Callao. But as during the firft three days,
the ftrength of the wind had driven us near the coaft;
fo from the latitude we found it farther to the
fouth;
CH. XI SOUTH AMERICA. 187
fouth; between 25 and 21, began to incline to-
wards the S. E. and from the latitude of 20°, when
we found ourſelves near the land, till our arrival at
Callao, we had the wind S. S. E. and E. S. E. It was the
fame with regard to the fea coming from the S. W.
for it gradually diminiſhed as we approached the coaft:
fo that from 25 it was not at all troubleſome, and
after we were paffed 21 became imperceptible. But
it was very different with regard to the current, which
from the parallel of 20 or 21°, we perceived to fet
towards the N. W. parallel to the direction of the
coaſt, and became much more ſenſible after we had
fight of the land, its velocity increaſing, as latitude
decreaſed.
I would recommend two precautions to be uſed
in the voyage from Chili to Callao. The firſt is
not to make the land in the bay of Arica, the many
eddies of the current there rendering it very dif-
ficult to get again clear of the coaft; which muſt
be done by keeping along fhore; as by ftanding
out to fea, you will be in danger of not reaching
the harbour for the current fetting N. W. on
tanding in for the land, you will probably find
yourſelf to leeward of the harbour; in which cafe
it will be far from eafy to work up againſt the wind
and strong current. The fecond flows from the
former, and is to make the land fomewhere between
Nafca and Sangallan, as the coaft may be then kept
at a proper diſtance, and the danger of falling to lee-
ward of the port avoided: a misfortune which has
happened to many, who have been carried farther
out than they expected; fo that after a long look
qut for land, they find themfelves on its firft appear-
ance to leeward of their port.
In winter, eſpecially, too much care cannot be taken,
as from the continual thickneſs of the atmoſphere, ob-
ſervations cannot be made fo often as requifite; fome-
times not for five or fix days fucceffively; at the fame
time
288
A VOYAGE TO BOOK II
time the fight of land is entirely intercepted by the
denfity of the fog. This we experienced; for after
we were anchored in Callao at only a quarter of a league
diſtant from the land, the people on the fhore had no
fight of the fhips: and it was owing to our being very
near the coaft that we made the harbour; for had we
been at a diſtance, we ſhould have been far to lee-
ward, when the weather cleared up.
On the 25th of June, being the fecond day after
our departure from the island de Tierra de Juan
Fernandes, we faw a meteor like that we had be-
fore ſeen at Quito, namely, a globe of fire, or large
globe of inflammable exhalations. It firft appeared
in the weſt, at half an hour after three in the morn-
ing, and moved with great velocity for a confiderable
fpace towards the eaft, as if carried by the wind.
The light of this meteor was fuch, that the watch on
the quarter-deck could plainly diſtinguiſh every perſon
on the fore-caftle; and both were not a little terrified.
The phænomenon lafted between three and four mi-
nutes, and half an hour after we felt two violent
fhocks, at an interval of about a minute and a half
betwixt them, ſo that all apprehended the fhip had
ftruck on fome fhoal; but on reflection we concluded
it to be the effect of an earthquake.
THE fquadron being fafely arrived at Callao, with
the commander in chief of the fouth-fea, a title given to
Don Jofeph Pizarro, and a fufficient number of of-
ficers of ſuch diſtinguiſhed zeal and experience, that
they might well fupply our place without detriment to
the fervice; and, at the fame time, we being willing
to put the finishing hand to our principal work, we
afked the vice-roy's leave to return to Quito; but his
excellency was defirous that we fhould firft compleat
fome particulars he had commited to our care.
cordingly we applied ourſelves affiduously to our
work; and Don George Juan, having finifhed his
part firft, left Callao on the 14th of November, pro-
Ac-
pofing
}
CH. XI. SOUTH A
SOUTH AMERICA.
289
pofing to make all the neceffary preparatives againſt
my arrival, that the proper obfervations might be
made without delay. On the 27th of January, 1744,
I reach'd Quito, where I found Don George Juan had,
by his extraordinary care, nearly finifhed every thing
neceffary for the continuation of our work; and
whilft the remainder was performing, we had an
opportunity, in conjunction with Mr. Godin, the only
French academician now remaining in this province,
of obferving the comet which appeared this year.
THOUGH the Comet might have been feen on the
2d and 3d of February, the atmoſphere of Quito being
fo unfavourable to aftronomical obfervations on account
of the clouds, it was the 6th before we could obferve it.
The comet was then near the weſtern part of the ho-
rizon, and being behind the mountain of Pichinca, its
altitude concealed it from our fight, fo that we could
not obſerve it after feven or eight at night. On the
6th, at ſeven in the evening, we found its altitude
above the horizon to be 15 degrees, and its azimuth
from the N. 72 degrees; Mr. Godin and Den George
Juan judged its nucleus to be oblong, to me it ap-
peared perfectly circular; but we all agreed that it
was larger than Jupiter. The tail, which we difcerned
through fome light clouds, feemed to extend two de-
grees, and to form with the verticle circle, an angle
of near thirty degrees.
On the 7th, at eight minutes after feven in the
evening, on repeating our obfervations, we found its
altitude to be 11°, 11', and its azimuth from the
north 72°, 45'. From this fecond obfervation,
which we confidered as more accurate than the
former, having made proper allowances for refraction,
we concluded that the right afcenfion of the comet
was 332°, 50', and that its northern declination was
20°, 5'. Whence we inferred, that its trajectory
was the fame with that obferved in 1631 by Caffini,
and by Tycho Brahe in 1577, and that, in all pro-
VOL. I.
bability
U
"
290
Book II.
A VOYAGE TO
bability it was the fame; for though the periods do
not agree, it might have appeared twice in the firft
interval. After this we were hindered from profe-
cuting our obfervations by the cloudinefs of the
nights and fome days afterwards we were affured by
feveral, that they had ſeen it in the morning.
As all the triangles on the north fide from Pamba-
marca, to the place where Mr. Godin had made his
fecond aftronomical obfervations were not compleated,
and the inftrument conftructed for that purpoſe kept
in readineſs, we made that our firft talk; Mr. Go-
din not having then gone through them all. After
finiſhing every thing here, we repaired on the 22d
of March to the obfervatory de Pueblo Viejo de Mi-
ra, where meeting with the fame difficulties from the
thickneſs of the atmoſphere, as we had before expe-
rienced during the whole courfe of our operations,
we were obliged to continue there till the 22d of
May, when being fatisfied with the accuracy of the
obfervations made during this long interval, we re-
turned to Quito, with the pleaſing expectation, that
our perfeverance againſt the conftant difficulties we
met with from the clouds was at laſt come to a period;
and that we fhould now reft from the toils and hard-
fhips of living on frozen defarts; a repofe the more
pleafing, as it was accompanied with a confciouſneſs
that no inconveniences had occafioned us to omit the
leaft part of our duty.
DURING Our stay at Mira, Don George Juan ap-
plied himſelf to obferve the variation of the magnetic
needle, and by four obfervations nearly coincident,
he concluded to be nearly 89, 47′, eaſterly.
We now began to deliberate on our return upon
the favourable opportunity of the above-mentioned
French fhips, which were preparing to fail for Spain;
as we ſhould then pafs round Cape Horn, and not only
complete from our own experience, an account of the
fouth-fea, but be enabled to make obſervations on the
whole
CH. XI
291
SOUTH AMERICA.
whole courſe. Another, and indeed our principal mo-
tive was, the ſafety of our papers, concluding there
could be no danger in a neutral fhip, as we then
imagined thofe to be. The concurrence of fo many
advantages immediately determined us; and leaving
Quito we fet out for Lima, where I arrived firft,
Don George Juan having fome days been detained at
Guayaquil by a freſh commiffion by the vice-roy.
Theſe fhips, not failing fo foon as expected, I em-
ployed the interval in drawing up an extract of all
intereſting obfervations and remarks, and prefented it
to the vice-roy, who was pleaſed to order the papers
to be preſerved in the fecretary's office, that if any
misfortune ſhould happen to us in the voyage, our fove-
reign might not be totally diſappointed in his generous
views of promoting the uſeful fciences of geography and
navigation.
WHILE We were employed in finiſhing our obſer-
vations at Mira, the univerfity of Lima gave a
remarkable teftimony of their fenfe of Mr. Godin's
eminent talents, by chufing him profeffor of mathe-
matics, in the room of Don Pedro de Peralta,
deceaſed; which he accepted of with the greater fa-
tisfaction, as fome indifpenfable affairs of his company
would not permit him to gratify his defires of return-
ing to Europe. Accordingly he propoſed to ſpend
this interval in making freſh obfervations and expe-
riments, concluding that the atmoſphere of Lina,
during the fummer feaſon, would be more favourable
to his deſigns than that of Quito or the mountains.
On his arrival at that city, the vice-roy, who was no
ftranger to his great abilities, and pleaſed with the
prudent choice of the univerfity, conferred on him,
at the fame time of his being invefted with the pro-
fefforſhip, the poft of cofmographer to his majefty;
with other advantages annexed to it. But this gentle-
man was far from propofing to make any longer ftay
there than what thefe affairs required; no advantages
U 2
or
292
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
or honours being fufficient to make him forget the ob-
ligations he was under of giving an account of his voy-
age and obfervations to his fovereign and the academy,
eſpecially as being the eldeſt of the three academicians;
fo that all the teftimonies of eſteem could not fupprefs
his uneafineſs at the delay.
M. de Juffieu, tho' with the fame regret as the former,
determined to continue fome time at Quito, with M.
Hugot, till he faw what turn the war would take, that
he might efcape, in his return to Europe, thofe dangers
then fo common at fea. M. Verguin chofe to go by
the way of Panama: and the others, except the two
who died in the country, one at Cayambe, and Cu-
enca, were difperfed; one fettling in Quito. Thus, the
whole French company feparated: and it muſt be
confidered, as a fingular happineſs, that after fuch a
fcene of labours, hardfhips, and dangers, in fuch a
variety of climates, and amidft fuch inhofpitable de-
farts and precipices, our operations were accurately
performed and we capable of entering on a new
fcene of dangers and difficulties, which it was our
fortune to experience before we were in a condition of
prefenting this work to the publick.
BOOK
CH. I. SOUTH AMERICA.
293
BOOK III.
Voyage from CALLAO to EUROPE; with an Ac-
count of the Voyage from CONCEPTION in CHILI
to the island of FERNANDO DE NORONA,
CAPE BRETON, NEWFOUNDLAND, and PORTS-
MOUTH in ENGLAND: and from the fame
Harbour in the South-fea to CAPE FRANCOIS in
St. DOMINGO, and from thence to BREST in
FRANCE:
९
$
CHA P. I.
Departure from CALLAO. Arrival at the Bay
of CONCEPTION. Voyage from thence to FER-
NANDO DE NORONA.
H
AVING, as I have already obſerved, deter-
mined on the voyage for returning to Spain;
on our arrival at Lima, in the year 1744, we were
informed that two of the French frigates, Notre Dame
de la Delivrance and the Lys, lay at Callao, and were
foon to fail. Such a favourable opportunity was not
to be miffed, and accordingly Don George Juan and
myſelf agreed for our paffage, and alfo to make the
voyage in feparate fhips, that one at leaſt might
eſcape the dangers to be apprehended in fo long a
voyage; there being thus the greater probability that
one might reach his country, and there give an
account of our proceedings with regard to the com-
miffion with which we had been honoured.
THE vice-roy had given us leave to return with the
greatest marks of efteem; and the fhips being ready
we embarked on the 22d of October; and the fame
U 3
day
1
294
A VOYAGE TO Book III.
day put to ſea, fteering our courfe for Chili. The
two frigates kept company till the 11th of Novem-
ber, when they feparated in the latitude of 33°, 40′,
the Lys being obliged to touch at Valparaifo, whilft
the Delivrance continued her courfe for Conception
bay; where she came to an anchor on the 21ft of
November. This voyage was remarkably fhort, being
performed in twenty-nine natural days. What greatly
contributed to this expedition was, that having put to
fea at the end of winter, we fell in with fome breezes
at N. which carried us to the fouthward, and faved us
the trouble of ſtanding fo far out to fea, as muſt be
done when the fummer is advanced.
<
In this bay we found the Louis Erafme frigate,
which had waited there fome time, in order to fail in
company with us; and on the 6th of January, 1745,
we were joined by the Lys, accompanied with another
French ſhip, called la Marquis d'Antin, which hav-
ing come hither as a regiſter fhip, had taken in a
loading of cacao at Guayaquil, and was in her return
to Europe. The ſeaſon being far advanced, our little
fquadron put to fea the firſt fair wind; which happened
on the 27th of January, when about ten in the morn-
ing we all got under fail, fteering W. and W. one
quarter northerly, according as the winds would per-
mit, which were continually varying from S. W. to S.
S.E. On the fourth of February we found ourſelves in
the latitude of 35°, 21', and 9º, 38', weft of the me-
ridian of Conception; when the wind blowing freſh at
S. W. by W, we tacked in order to ftand to the ſouth-
ward. The next day we were informed that a very dange-
rous leak had been diſcovered in the head of the Lys,
and that it was fo far under water as not to be ſtopped
without going into fome harbour and lightening the
fhip; which had determined the captain to run into
fome of the harbours of Chili in order to ftop the
leak; accordingly he left the reft of the fleet the fame
day. The Delivrance, on board of which I embarked,
was
CH. I.
295
SOUTH AMERICA.
was in little better condition, making daily a great
deal of water ever fince our departure from Concep-
tion. But the captain, unwilling to lofe the benefit
of failing in company, and, at the fame time, fearful
that his men would leave the fhip, determined to
keep the fea. He alſo apprehended, that as the fhip's
hull was very old, and greatly fhattered by her late
voyage, on being fearched, the neceffary repairs
would require a confiderable time; and thence, be-
fides the cofts, he would find it difficult to get round
the cape that year. Theſe confiderations determined
him to continue his voyage, without acquainting the
other ſhips of the bad condition of his veffel. But
this prudence had nearly proved fatal to all on board,
as the defects were greatly increaſed during the courſe
of the voyage.
TILL the 6th the winds were variable, fometimes
freſh, then dying away; the fea proportionable, run-
ning high in a freſh gale, and abating with the wind.
FROM the latitude of 35°, 21', we fteer'd between
the S. E. and S; and on the 12th, being in the la-
titude of 41º, 20', we were obliged again to ſteer
between S. W. and W. till the eighteenth, when
we found ourſelves in the latitude of 45°, 20. The
winds were firft at W. afterwards N. N. E. from
which they changed to the E. N. E. and N. E. and
varying continually, at laft fhifted to the S. E. S. and
E. During this interval, every change of the winds.
was attended with calms and violent fhowers; and at
other times the fea was covered with fogs, or the at-
moſphere fo clouded with vapours as to intercept the
rays of the fun.
FROM the time we left Conception till the 7th of
February, being then in 36°, 12', and 9°, 20', weft
of the meridian of Conception, we always faw that
kind of birds called Pardelas, but here they left us.
On the 11th, in the latitude of 40º, 45', and fome-
thing more to the weftward than on the 7th, we faw
U 4
295
Book III.
A VOYAGE TO
a number of fmall black birds, flying fingly, and
against the current of the water. On the 15th, the
weather being fair, but the wind blowing freſh at W.
S. W. we faw a Quebrantahueffos, or offifrage; and
on the 16th, being in the latitude of 44°, 31', and
11°, 24', weft of the meridian of Conception, we
faw feveral flights of Curlews and Pardelas; and the
Quebrantahueffos kept continually in fight of the fhip:
foon after the wind came about to the S. W. and
blew fo ftrong, that the frigates were obliged to hand
all their fails except their courfes. On the 18th the
wind abated, the fea, which ran exceeding high,
became tolerably ſmooth, and the Quebrantahueffos
diſappeared at the beginning of this welcome change
of weather.
FROM the 18th to the 26th our courfe was eaſt,
one quarter foutherly, and S. E. one quarter eafterly;
the winds being variable between the S. S. W. and
W. S. W. with fome fhort tranfitions to N. W.
From the 26th to the 3d of March we fteered E. S. E.
and E. with the fame winds, but fo very variable,
that from W. they fhifted to the S. W. and from
thence flew about to the E; fo that in this interval
they blew from every point of the compafs, but rarely
continued a ſingle day in one direction. Sometimes
for three or four hours we had a freth gale, this foon
died away, and was often fucceeded by calms, being
regular only in inconftancy.
ON the 20th of February we had a ſtrong gale of
wind at W. S. W, which obliged us to double reef our
topfails. We were then in 48°, 2', latitude. On
the 21ft the wind abated, and continued fo all the
morning with an eafy fea. At noon the wind freſh-
ened, and a ftorm came on at W. N. W. W. and W.
S. W. fo that we could carry only our reefed courfes.
The ftorm continued till the 23d about fun-fet, when
we let out the reefs in our courſes, and fet our top-
fails, after reefing them. During the whole time we
had
馨
​CH. I.
297
SOUTH AMERICA.
had a very hollow fea, and at the fame time the at-
moſphere ſo hazy, that fometimes we loft fight of
the other fhips. This fog precipitated itſelf in a
mizzling rain, which continued inceffantly two days
after the ftorm was over.
ON the 20th we were amuſed with the fight of a
great number of birds of all ſizes, and among them
one larger than a goofe, and entirely black. On the
21ft their numbers increaſed, fome of which were
larger than the Quebrantahueffos, but feemed to be
of the fame ſpecies. All the feathers of this bird
were white, except thofe on the upper part of its
wings, which were brown. Its wings were long,
flender, and ſomething curved. On the 22d when
we were in the latitude of 51°, 2′, and 9º, 35′ weſt
of the meridian of Conception, they continued with
us in the fame numbers. On the 23d they increaſed,
and among them were feveral gulls. The feathers on
the bodies of the latter were white, their tails fhort and
broad, their necks large but well proportioned, and
their heads and beaks anſwerable: on the upper parts
of their wings the feathers were black, and white un-
derneath; the wings very difproportionate in length,
and confiderably crooked at the middle articulation.
This bird flies very fwift, fometimes juft above the
furface of the water, then mounts into the air; and
after taking two or three gyrations, they again dart
down near the waters edge. On the 25th, the weather
being foggy, with a mizzling rain, in the latitude 55°,
6, and 6º, 42', weſt of the meridian of Conception,
we ſaw great numbers of birds, and among them the
Quebrantahueffos of both the kinds already mentioned,
and on the 26th ſeveral Toninas, a kind of wild ducks.
On the 27th we had little or no wind, with fnow
and hail. The birds fhewed themfelves in greater
numbers and variety than before; but the moſt nu-
merous were gulls, like thofe already defcribed, but
the colours fomething different; fome being of an aſh
colour,
298
A VOYAGE TO BOOK III.
J
colour, others had their whole bodies white, and their
wings black, and others the reverfe. Some, though
very few, were entirely black, without the leatt fpot
of white. We alfo faw among them the Toninas,
with their white bellies and brown backs.
On the ift on March, being in the latitude of 57º,
50' and 0° 3' east of the meridian of Conception, we
faw fome whales, but the number of birds were con-
fiderably diminiſhed: the fnow and hail ftill con-
tinued; the denfe clouds, which were continually form-
ing in that part of the horizon whence the winds blow,
precipitating themſelves in theſe meteors; and though
the winds were moderate, the clouds were conftantly
gathering. On the 3d we had thick weather; the
cold became extreme, and a great deal of fnow fell.
The birds, alfo, returned in their former numbers;
principally of the larger fort.
On the fame day, at noon, in the latitude of 58°
40′, and 4° 13′ E. of the meridian of Conception,
a little W. of the meridian of Cape Horn, and 60
leagues to the fouthward of it; we altered our
courſe, ſteering E. N. E. and continued failing between
that and the N. E. till the 28th of the fame month.
But the winds were fo variable and unfettled, that
there was ſcarce a day in which they did not blow from
two different quarters, and fometimes from points al-
moft oppofite.
ON the 4th we had fair weather, with the wind
at N. N. E. and W; on the 5th at S. E. and W;
on the 6th S. and S. W. changing round the whole
compaſs, and ſcarce ever continuing a day in one
point, till the 8th, when we found ourſelves in the
latitude of 55° 16′ and 14° 30' E. of the meridian
of Conception, having weathered both Cape Horn,
and Staten Land. It fnowed and hailed continually,
fo that it was fix inches deep on the deck: but now
it began to diminiſh, and with it the cold. The
birds likewife no longer appeared in fuch vaft flocks:
2
and
CH. I.
299
SOUTH AMERICA.
were
and on the ſeventh we faw a new fpecies of a dark
brown colour, greatly refembling geefe, and, like
them, keep fwimming on the water for a long time.
On the 8th we faw birds of a brown and white co-
lour, in ſmall flocks, of ten or fifteen in each.
Theſe alſo ſwam on the water, and when flying, kept
always near the furface. On the 9th being in the
latitude of 54° 21′ and 16° 10' E. of the meridian
of Conception, befides the fame flocks of birds,
we alſo faw Pardelas, but of a lefs fize than thoſe in
the fouth fea. On the roth in the latitude of 54° 1′,
and 17° 38′ E. of Conecption, the winds
very variable between the N. N. E. and S. W. with
fo thick a fog, that the fhips fired guns to avoid
running foul of one another; for each had kept
two guns mounted for making fignals. We had
alfo heavy fhowers, and in the evening faw flocks
of birds, moft of them of middling fize, with dark
brown feathers, and flender erooked wings. The
whole difference between them confifted in the fize,
their form and colour being perfectly alike; and tho
we ſaw them during the whole day, they were in the
greatest numbers from four to fix in the evening.
On the 11th being in the latitude of 52° 15', and
189.9′ E. of Conception, we obferved that the co-
lour of the water was changed, it being now greenish;
but another days failing brought us into water of its
ufual colour. On the 12th and 13th the wind blew
freſh at N. W. and W. accompanied with heavy
fhowers, but of no long continuance, nor attended
with any bad confequences. Among the birds feen
theſe two days, and which were more numerous than
before, two fpecies in particular engaged my atten-
tion; one large, refembling vultures, with black
wings, and their bodies of a light brown spotted with
white: the other, tho' little different in colour from
the former, did not exceed the Pardelas in fize:
both forts kept near the fhip; and our men told us.
they
300
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK III.
they had ſeen a fhoal of fish, which had probably
drawn fuch numbers together.
ON the 14th the wind variable betwixt the
W. N. W. and S. W. and our latitude 48° 12′, we
began to be fenfible of an agreeable change in the
temperature of the air; in the day time it was not
cold upon deck, and at night the cabins were
warm. On the 15th we had a freſh gale at W. N. W.
and N. W. with a hollow fea, which continued the two
following days being the 16th and 17th, the weather
was very hazy, fudden fhowers frequent, and the
fame number of birds ſtill continued. On the 16th ·
the marquis d'Antin came along fide and told us,
that the fhip had fprung a leak, and that they had
laboured the whole night to ftop it, having, after
a long fearch, found it to proceed from a hole made
by the rats in one of her quarters near the water's
edge. This obliged them to heel the ſhip in order
to stop it, and the other two flackened fail that fhe
might come up with them. On the 17th we faw
many large whales, feveral of which played round
the ſhip for a confiderable time.
THE wind during the laft day was at S. E. and at
S. S. E. but moderate; the fea ſmooth, with fhowers
of rain; when we found ourſelves in the latitude of
44° 30′ and 25° 13′ E. of Conception, and faw
feveral flights of birds both of the large and fmall
fpecies, but different in colour from any we had feen
before, being intirely white.
THE water now increaſed fo prodigioufly in our
fhip, that for fome days our men had been almoſt
continually labouring at the pump, which quite ex-
haufted their ſpirits; and all of us under the greateſt
apprehenfions of perifhing. Nor was this a fudden
pannic, the water fometimes increaſing fo fuddenly,
that notwithſtaneing all our efforts it feemed to gain
upon us.
We obferved that the principal leaks were
at the head and ftern, and the 19th proving a fine day,
We
CH. I.
301
SOUTH AMERICA.
we hoifted out our boat, for the carpenters to nail
Theet lead over the feams; but the fea ran too high
for them to execute it.
On the 20th the wind blowing ftrong at N. and
N.E. one quarter northerly, and the fea running high,
we laid to, under our mainſail; but rain coming on,
we had, next day, moderate weather. The wind
continued in the fame quarter till the 25th, but little
of it, with fogs and fhowers. We were now in the
latitude of 39° 14′ and 30° 5' E. of the meridian of
Conception. During thefe days we faw feveral birds,
but in much leſs numbers than before; fome of them
very different, as black pardelas, and others of the
fame colour, but of an unknown ſpecies.
THE water in our fhip was now fo greatly in-
creaſed, and our men fo ſpent with continually la-
bouring at the pump, that we had thoughts of quit-
ting her; and doubtlefs this would have been done
fome days before had it not been for her valuable
cargo; having on board near two millions of Peru-
vian dollars, a million and a half of which was in
gold and filver, and ftowed under the cacao ſhe had
taken in at Guayaquil. In order therefore in fome.
meaſure to keep out the water, a fail quilted with
oakum, and fhot faftened to the clues to fink it,
was lowered into the water from the head of the
fhip; but this expedient had little effect. For tho'
at first the water did not feem to enter with the ra-
pidity as before, yet the oakum which prevented it,
was foon carried away, when our condition was not
mended in the leaſt.
FROM the 29th, when we were in the latitude
of 35° 38′ and 33° 27′ E. of the meridian of Concep-
tion, our courfe was W. N. W. till the 4th of April,
when till the 20th we ſteered between the N. E. and
E. N. E. with the fame variable weather, fhowers,
hard gales, and calms. So that during this long inter-
val of twenty nine days, our latitude diminiſhed little
more
302
A VOYAGE TO Book III.
more than nine degrees and a half, finding ourſelves in
the latitude of 25° 55'; and between the twenty eight
and twenty ninth degree we were detained from the
7th to the 15th without being able to make better
way. On the 29th of March we faw Pardelas and the
other kind of black birds. On the 30th we took
down our weather boards, and got our top-gallant-
mafts up. During this time the birds feemed to
have entirely forfaken us; but on the 3d of April,
we faw great numbers; and on the 5th and 6th
we ſaw a new fpecies, refembling a lark in fhape
and fize. Here we had alfo a firft fight of the
Dorados; but from hence we never miffed feeing
that fiſh and alſo the bonito. On the 8th in the
latitude of 28° 58′, we began to meet with very
thick fogs, violent and frequent fqualls of wind
and rain, which continued with little or no inter-
miffion to the 13th, but that day proving fair, we
made ufe of it in getting up and mounting our
guns. The carpenters and caulkers were ordered
into the boat, to endeavour to ftop the leaks at the
water's edge; for tho' they had nailed fheet lead over
the feams, it did not anfwer the purpofe, the water
nearly iffuing with the fame rapidity. On the 18th
being in the latitude of 26° 52', we firft faw the fly-
ing-fiſh, and Taburones, but afterwards we had con-
tinual fight of them, their numbers increafing in pro-
portion as we leffened our latitude.
In the latitude of 39° 14′ on the 25th of March,
Don Pedro de Arriago, freighter both of the Louis
Erafme, and la. Delivrance, made an offer to the
captains, that if they thought it neceffary, provi-
fions and water growing fcarce, they might put into
the harbour of Monte Video, where they might
not only refit the ſhips and provide them with all
neceffaries, but alfo take the benefit of a convoy,
the Afia man of war being to fail for Spain about
that time, with commodore Don Jofeph Pizarro;
adding
CH. I.
303
SOUTH AMERICA.
adding that it was the more adviſeable to embrace
this opportunity, advice having been received from
Europe, three or four days before their departure
from Conception, that France and England were at
war. But the captains from ſelfiſh motives rejected
this falutary propoſal, tho' at the fame time they
muſt be ſenſible that the want of water and provi-
fions, together with the bad condition of our fri-
gate, would unavoidably oblige them to put into
Home harbour. And this, in oppofition to the wor-
thy merchant's advice, they determined fhould be
the defart iſland of Fernando de Norona; for tho'
the Portugueſe of Brafil had fome time fince fent
a colony thither, it was abandoned on account of
its fterility. The French India company alfo had
for ſome time a fettlement there, but were obliged,
on the fame account, to leave it; and during the
time of that fettlement, the captain of the marquis
d'Antin had been there, and thence knew that it
abounded with water and wood, the two articles
moſtly wanted. Don Pedro Arriago adhered to his
first propoſal, and it had doubtlefs been complied
with by the two frigates freighted by him, had not
the marquis d'Antin been in company, the captain of
which made ufe of fuch plaufible reafons in fupport
of his opinion, that it prevailed, and we accordingly
fteered for the harbour of Fernando de Norona.
FROM the 20th to the 26th of April, we had
calms and fqualls, and from thence to the 8th of
May, when we found ourſelves in the latitude of
16 deg, 58 min. we had little wind, and variable
between the N. and E. but mostly at N. E. nearly.
On the 8th the wind began to freſhen, and tho' for
ſeveral days it was at E. and E. N. E. we had it ge-
nerally at E. S. E. till our arrival at Fernando de No-
rona. Our courſe from the 20th of April, was as the
winds would permit, fometimes N. N. W. N. W. one
quarter northerly, and W. N. W. but from the 7th of
May,
1
304
A VOYAGE TO
!
BOOK II.
May, when the wind fettled to the eastward, we fteered
N. and N. one quarter eaſterly to the 15th, when find-
ing ourſelves in the latitude of 4 deg. S. being nearly
the fame with that of Fernando de Norona, we ſtood
directly W. and having fight of it at half an hour
after nine in the morning of the 21ft of May, all
the frigates at half an hour after three in the even-
ing, came to an anchor in the road, to our no
fmall joy. This voyage had continued an hundred
and fifty days, and been attended with great fatigue
and anxiety, on account of the bad condition of our
frigate. For more than once, we had the greateſt
reafon to apprehend fhe would founder, before we
had time to provide for our fafety.
·
FROM the 5th of April, we faw no birds till the
fecond of May, when being in the latitude of 20° 18′,
we faw an Rabiahorcado, which the French call Ta-
illeur, the taylor, 'from the form and motion of its
tail. This bird is about the fize of a wood pigeon,
with a ſhort neck, a proportionate bill, and its
wings very long, broad and curved. The tail feemed
to be compofed of very few feathers, and thefe divid-
ing at the root, fo as to reprefent a pair of ſciffars
opened; but when it is on the wing, it fhuts and opens
them at pleaſure, reprefenting the manner of ufing
that inftrument. The two blades, of which the tail
confifts, are very long in proportion to the body of .
the bird; and together with the whole plumage are of
a fine gloffy black, except the breaſt, which is a fort
of very pale afh colour. It flies very fwiftly, and
generally high, never being feen low, but when ho-
vering about a fhip, as if intending to fettle on it.
On the 4th of May we faw a pardela as large as a wood
pigeon; the feathers on its belly, breaſt, and under the
wings, were an aſh colour; and thoſe on the neck, head,
and upper part of the wings, of a dark brown. From
this day, when in the latitude of 19° 40', till the twelfth,
when we came into ten degrees, we conftantly faw fome
•
though
$
CH. I.
305
SOUTH AMERICA.
though few of the two laſt mentioned kinds of birds ;
but from that time we had no more fight of them till
the evening of the 16th, when in the latitude of 4°
30', nearly, we faw a different kind larger than the
pardelas; but from the flow motion of its wings we
concluded it to be a land bird. It was at too great a
diſtance for us clearly to diftinguifh its colours and
form. We were, however, notwithſtanding this fig-
nal, under a neceffity of ſteering W. when after a run
of 102 leagues we made the island. The following
days we never failed of feeing a few of the ſame ſpecies;
but on the 19th their numbers increaſed. They were
wholly black, except a few brown feathers on the
wings. Among thefe birds we obferved one larger
than the reft, with a long neck, a prominent body,
and its whole plumage of a dark brown: it moved its
wings flowly, and every way reſembled a cormo-
rant. We faw him ſeveral times dart down with great
rapidity to catch fish; and on the 29th in the morning
we were entertained with the fight of great numbers
of them, whom hunger rendered very alert in`the fame
exerciſe. From the time of feeing the firſt, till we
were directly S of the ifland, we failed 33 leagues,
the greateſt diſtance theſe birds are known to venture
out to fea. On the 20th in the evening, being betwixt
ten and eleven leagues from the iſland, we faw feveral
birds refembling the guanaes already defcribed; and
at fun-fet great flocks of them were flying towards the
W; whence we concluded that we were not far from
the iſland. Theſe birds, which the French call Fou, and
the Engliſh Booby, are about the fize of a goofe, have
a large and curved wing, all over of a dark brown,
and in flying ufe a great deal of motion with their
wings; but when they attempt to catch a fiſh, they
dive with the fame rapidity as the guanaes.
ABOUT two hours before we made the iſland, we
faw feveral Rabijuncos, a bird, which by always
keeping near the fhore, indicates its proximity. They
VOL. II.
X
are
}
306
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE TO
are about the fize of a wood pigeon, with a fhort thick
neck, a fmall head, the whole plumage white, and a
long tail in the form of a rabijunco or ruſh, half an inch
diameter near the body, tapering its whole length till it
terminates in a point, whence it was called Rabijuncos.
Theſe birds are never feen above eight or ten leagues
from the fhore.
From the time we firft faw the Dorado and Bonito,
the laſt increaſed in numbers as our latitude diminiſhed.
We now alſo faw the Tunny, and a great many flying
fifh. We caught fome of all kinds; and here it is
not unworthy notice, that the Bonitos and tunny-fifh
bite only from day-break till about ſeven in the morn-
ing, and again in the evening from fun-fet till dark.
}
CHA P. II.
Nautical Obfervations and Remarks on the Voyage
round CAPE HORN.
F'
ROM the time of our fteering weft, being in the
latitude of the iſland, till we were under its
meridian, we failed 5 deg. 4 min. and a half, tho' all
on board, who had kept an account of the ſhip's way,
imagined we were to the weftward of it; but the va-
riation of the needle convinced us, that our reckoning
was not to be depended on, and that the fhip was
much farther to the eastward than we imagined:
an error owing principally to the motion of the
currents, which had drawn us at fuch a great dif-
tance from the land; all the French pilots on board
the Delivrance agreed in this particular; and fome re-
lated, that when they thought themſelves near the land,
they had often found the fhip above three hundred
leagues to the eastward of their reckoning. I did
not, however, make any correction in my journal on
this
!
CH. II.
307
SOUTH AMERICA.
1
this account; for which I had two reafons. The first,
that I might be able to judge of the diftance the cur-
rents had carried us to the eastward. The fecond, was
an unwillingneſs to commit a freſh error by making
an uncertain correction, as I was not fatisfied that
there were any currents, and confequently unable to
guefs at their velocity; fome affirming they had found
them very violent; and others as pofitively afferting,
that they had never met with any. This was the cafe
of the three frigates when they entered the ſouth-ſea :
and the captain of the Delivrance informed me, that
without attending to the currents in going round the
cape, in the latitude of 62 degrees, his reckoning per-
fectly agreed with the time of making land; and
that ſeveral Frenchmen had done the like: but, on the
other hand, it has happened to fome, that when they
imagined themſelves in the fouth-fea by the place
of the fhip according to their reckoning, fteered
N. E. till from the difappointment of not falling in
with the land, at the time expected, had convinced
them that they had not weathered the cape; and ac-
cordingly fteering towards the W. they have found
their fufpicions confirmed by making the coaft of Bra-
fil, or Buenos Ayres.
On the 21ft of May, at one in the afternoon, we
were under the meridian of Fernando de Norona, and
at above three quarters of a league diftant to the north-
ward of it. Whereas according to my computation,
the frigate was only 29° 56' E of the meridian of
Conception; but by the modern French map, laid down
from the obſervations fent to the academy of ſciences,
in which the longitudes of all places are marked with
all the accuracy which diftinguiſhes the works of that
learned body, this ifland lies no less than 42°, 32', 30",
E. of the meridian of Conception; confequently the
difference between my reckoning, and the true longi-
tude of the iſland, being 12° 36', 30", is the diftance
X 2
which
3
308
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE TO
which the currents carried our frigate to the, eaſt-
ward, exclufive of her lee-way.
ON the 15th of May, namely, before he began
to fteer W. we fpoke with the marquis d'Antin,
and her captain gave us to underſtand, that according
to his reckoning, the fhip was then 45°, 3′, E. of
the meridian of Conception. Whereas the distance,
according to my account was only 34°, 19′. Thus
the ſhip, according to his computation, was 10°, 44′,
further to the eastward than by mine, and the difference
on the ſhip's arrival at the iſland, will be 2º the dif-
tance the currents had carried him to the eastward be-
yond what he had judged. The captain of the De-
livrance, on the fame day, made the fhip 39°, 15',
eaft of the meridian of Conception; that is 4°, 56',
more than I; and confequently on reaching the iſland,
his account was 7°, 40', further to the weftward than
the ſhip. Others, who kept a journal on board the
Delivrance, differed as much; fome nearly agreeing with
me, namely, thoſe who had made no allowance for the
currents; whilft others approached nearer to the account
of the captain of the Marquis d'Antin, having uſed an
equation in reſpect to the currents. But every one, at
making the iſland, found their reckoning erroneous;
the fhip, according to their accounts, being farther to
the westward than fhe really was; but differed in the
quantity of that error, according to the different allow-
ances they had made for the ſetting of the currents.
THE difference betwixt my account and that of the
captain of the Marquis d'Antin, who was one of thofe
who made the fhip fartheft to the eastward, proceeded
from the captain's knowing by obferving the variation
of the needle, that the frigates made more way than
the reckoning allowed of, and therefore concluded that
a correction was neceffary, which he performed by
adding a proper diftance, from the journals of others,
and thence inferred that the velocity of the currents was
can-
Cя. II.
309
SOUTH AMERICA.
confiderable; but as that really exceeded the allow-
ance he made for it, his fhip was always to the eaſt-
ward of his reckoning. The captain of the Louis
Erafme found the difference nearly the fame as the cap-
tain of the Marquis d'Antin, who made ufe of an equa-
tion. Both, as I have already obſerved, founded their
corrections on the variations; differing very confidera-
bly from that delineated on the charts.
THE great variety of currents met with in failing
round Cape Horn, being fometimes ftrong, fome-
times moderate, and at others fcarce perceivable, in-
duces me to think that they were not confiderable in
correcting the account. For their velocity being un-
certain, it is in fact only committing a voluntary
error; and as the variations enable us to guefs at our
longitude within two or three degrees; and as after
making ufe of the equation, the place of the ſhip can-
not be known nearer the truth, the correction is en-
tirely uſeleſs; and the inference drawn from obferving
the variation, is abundantly fufficient for fecurity. I
fay, that the place of the fhip may be known fo within
two or three degrees; and a more exact conformity
between the corrected reckoning and the time of
making land would be rather fortuitous than the
effect of accuracy, in making the correction. The
difference of one or two degrees in the variations,
an error unavoidable, may produce in the longi-
tude an error of three or four degrees, or even
more, according to the place of the fhip. Every one
on board the three frigates, found their reckoning to
the weftward of the fhip's true place; though they had
made an allowance for the currents; and the difference
between fome of their accounts was not ſmall, as I have
already noticed. This was owing to the like uncer▾
tainty in the journals of other voyages they had with
them; for the currents being ſtronger at fometimes than
others, they who followed the former made a much
larger allowance than thofe who regulated their cor-
rections
X 3
1
310
A VOYAGE TO BOOK III.
...
7
rections by the latter; and confequently their reckon-
ings must have been very different. The currents
therefore being uncertain, and the journals of thoſe
voyages very variable with regard to their velocity,
there is no more fecurity in following one than another,
and even if we take a medium between them, there
would be no more fafety in relying upon it, than
blindly to follow that which was thought the beſt.
However, their utility and even importance cannot be
denied, as they inform the navigator of the parts
where he muft expect to meet with currents, and at
the fame time warn him of their variety.
ONE caufe of the little knowledge we have of theſe
currents is, that this voyage is feldom made, and leſs
by the Spaniards than by any other maritime nation;
and though fince the year 1716 feveral French fhips
have failed into thoſe feas, they have not yet been able
to remove this difficulty, and fettle the times of the
feveral degrees of velocity of the currents in the
different latitudes paffed thro' in weathering the
Cape. This is indeed only to be expected from long
experience and repeated voyages; and in order to
this navigators fhould not make any allowance for
their currents in correcting their days works; for
the diftance between the knots on the log-line being
truly adjuſted as ours was at forty feven Paris feet and
one third, and the half-minute glafs carefully at-
tended to, the error in the diſtance will be very in-
confiderable, and confequently the drift of the cur-
rent, on making land, known very near the truth;
and this muſt be added to or deducted from the
reckoning by account. By purſuing this method
we fhall advance one ftep towards a more certain
knowledge of them.
THOUGH We are not yet able to determine the ve-
locity of the currents, nor the times of their fetting,
yet we can advance one ſtep towards it, namely,
that they always fet towards the E. nor is there a fin-
gle
;
CH. II.
311
SOUTH AMERICA.
gle inftance to the contrary, unleſs very near the land
on the W. fide of America near Cape Horn; the proxi-
mity of the coaft caufing there a great variety of eddies,
and Terra del Fuego, being compofed of a cluſter of
iſlands, forming as many channels, the courſe of the
current is altered according to their difpofition; and
at a ſmall diſtance from them the meeting of theſe cur-
rents is plainly diftinguiſhable.
IN the account of Don George Juan's voyage in-
ferted in the ſequel, tho' his courfe in weathering Cape
Horn, was nearly in the fame latitude as ours, but a
month later as to time, and the weather and winds
very different, yet no current was perceivable; which
confirms what I have already obſerved.
THOUGH the general winds here are towards the
W. and S. W. thofe from the E. are ſometimes known.
as we experienced in paffing between the 57th and 58th
degree of latitude, and for three or four days after we
leffened our latitude. This, however, feldom hap-
pens; and therefore a ſhip bound into the fouth-feas
when in the latitude of Cape Horn, ſhould keep as
near the wind as poffible, if it be at N. W. or any other
intermediate point between the S. W. theſe being the
reigning winds in all feafons, taking advantage of the
firſt in order to gain the neceffary latitude, which
fhould be fomething above 60 deg. that if ſhe ſhould
be obliged to tack with the wind at S. W. fhe may
have fufficient fea-room in weathering the Cape; for
otherwiſe if the wind ſhould take her ſhort, after
two or three days, it would be neceſſary to return
again to a higher latitude; and this is, at all times,
attended with great fatigue and hardſhip, both on ac•
count of the rigour of the climate, and the frequency
of ftorms, attended with the moft terrible feas. It
was the middle of fummer when we came round
the Cape, yet the fnow and hail fell very thick, and
the cold was proportional. And tho' when we were
between the 57th and 58th degree, there was very
X 4
little
312
A VOYAGE TO BOOK III.
1
>
little wind, yet we had, to the great fatigue of the
feamen, a very heavy fea from the S. W. and W.
and fometimes the fea run in two or three different
directions.
FROM Our leaving the bay of Conception, till 17th
Feb. when we were in the latitude of 45° 17′ the dif
ferences either with regard to excefs or deficiency be-
tween the latitude by account, and that obtained by ob-
fervation, were inconfiderable: But from that day,
the latter was always greater than the former, as will
appear from the following feries. From the 15th
of the fame month to the 17th, the latitude by ob-
fervation exceeded that by account 18 min, from
the 17th to the 20th, 32 min. from the 20th to the
23d, 37 minutes and a half, from the 23d to the 27th,
33 min. from the 27th, to the fecond of March, 43
min. and from the 2d of March to the 6th, 20 min.
and a half. We were now according to my compu-
tation, 12º 6′ E. of the meridian of Conception, and
in the latitude of 56° 44′. After this the difference
between the latitudes by account and obfervation
began to decreaſe; but fometimes the latitude by ob-
fervation exceeded that by account, and at other
times was lefs. From the fixth to the feventh the
difference was 4. min, and a half; nor did it exceed
five or fix at the end of three or four days in which
we had no obfervation. This evidently fhews that
from the above latitude of 45° 17′ the currents began
to ſet to the ſouthward, and when the land parallel
to their courfe failed, they ran towards the eaſt,
when it was impoffible to diftinguifh them. But
that there were ftill currents, and very ftrong ones
too, feems to me beyond doubt; and it is much
more natural to think, that the prodigious volume
of water which ran towards the fouth, when there
was no longer any land to obftruct its courſe, ſhould
Incline towards the E. rather than towards the W.
the latter being the quarter from whence the wind
proceeded,
ON
CH. II.
313
SOUTH AMERICA.
On the 30th of March, being in the latitude of
34° 27′ S. and, according to my account 32° 47′ E.
of the meridian of Conception, we came into a cur-
rent, which feemed to fet S. E. the latitude by obſer-
vation exceeded that by account. by 10 or 11 min.
But from the 21st of April, being in the latitude of
25° 9′, and 36° 15′ E. of Conception, the two lati-
tudes agreed, and thus continued till we reached the
ifland of Fernando de Norona.
THE variation, of which we fhall foon give a ca-
talogue, gave us to underſtand from the time we
were under the meridian of Cape Horn, that the
currents carried our fhips towards the E. founding
our judgment on the difference between thoſe ob-
ferved, and thofe given us in the journals of other
voyages, conformable to the places where we made
our obfervations. And as they may be ferviceable
to others in making the fame voyage, in order to ren-
der them ftill more ufeful than if I had adapted them
to the longitude from my account, as that was not
the real place where the obfervations were made, I have
corrected the longitude in the manner I am going to
explain.
Ir being certain from what has been faid concern-
ing the currents, that their effects became fenfible
from 45° fouth-latitude in a S. E. direction to the la-
titude of 56, or 57 degrees; that from thence they
continued to run directly E. till we were in the latitude
of 34° 27', and 32° 47′ E. of the meridian of Con-
ception: where their courfe turned to the S. E. and
continued to run in that direction till we came into
the latitude of 25° 9′, and 36° 15′ E. of Conception,
where they ceaſed. It will therefore be neceffary to
divide, in all journals the 12° 36′ 30″, which the
ſhip was to the eastward of my reckoning, in a
proportion agreeably to the interval of time be-
tween their beginning and ceffation, regard being
had to their velocity in thofe parts when they were
moſt
314
A VOYAGE TO · Book II.
moſt evident by the difference between the latitudes
by account and obfervation, and this will give the
true place of the fhip correfponding to the diffe-
rent obfervations.
THE obfervations having been made either at fun-
rifing or fun-fetting, and the daily reckoning not
been adjuſted till noon, according to the common
practice at fea, occafions, between the longitude de-
termined that day, and that in which the fhip really
was at the time the variation was obferved, a diffe-
rence, which fometimes amounts to a degree or
more, I have therefore taken care in the following
table to ſettle the longitude and latitude agreeable to
the hour when the variation was obſerved.
A TABLE of the VARIATIONS obferved in the Voyage
from the BAY of CONCEPTION to the Iland of FER-
NANDO DE NORONA, in different latitudes and longi-
tudes, the latter being reckoned from the meridian of CON-
CEPTION.
Days. Lat.South
Deg. Min.
28 Jan. 36 16/
7 Feb. 36 23
Long. from the
Mer. of Concep.
Deg. Min.
Variations. Times of making
10 45
23 20
the Obfervation.
1
Deg. Min.
-1 8 W.
*13 17 E.
Evening.
9 25 W.
28
57 41
O 10 E.
Mar. 58
32
4 1
22
14
8
55 28
16
24
26 44
Morning.
9
54 57
18
32
20
00
II
52 42
19
59
18
50
12
13
14
26
~ 346
50 57
22
12
18 44
Evening.
49 22
23 35
18
32
47 52
24 24
18
42
38 36
34
41
9
Morning.
27
37 46
35.
49
10
30
30
34 27
1 April 33 06
37
1 I
6
23
Evening.
35 19
1 2 +∞
32
42 1/2
34. 39
32 15
34 27
4
31
30
8
16
29 4
27 16
34 02
37 48
18
26 48
48
18
46
O
nuno + ~ 2
**
5
55
Morning.
5 45
Evening.
5
ΙΟ
Morning.
6
Evening.
4
Morning.
2
5 W.
Evening
15 E.
19 26
CH. II.
315
SOUTH AMERICA:
Long. from the
Days. Lat. South.
Deg. Min.
Mer of Concep.
Dfg. Min,
19
26 49
49
I
Variations. Times of making
Deg. Min.
the Obfervation.
40 W.
O
20
26 7.
48 57
30
Ditto
25 44
48
46
15
N N N
22
22
24
+ N N
25
ΟΙ
48
47
30
24
55
48
47
18
Evening.
24, 43
48
44
45 E.
26
24
48
48
08
27
23
04
48
14
O
00
29
21
30
47 10
15 E.
I May 20
24
46 56
30
2
20 15
47
10
05
3
20
00
47
05
1
50 W.
Morning.
3
19
51
46 45
20 E.
Evening.
4
19 34
45
43
3
о
5
19 23
45 06
7
18 21
45
02
I
О -
20 W.
Morning.
30 Е.
9
15 49
45
II
10
13
16
45
20
ON
2
00
50
Evening.
12
9 34
45 57
05.
17
4 10
45 29
22 W.
Morning.
19
4
17
43
55
1
41 E.
19
4
18
.00
43
40
3
25
Evening.
22
31
3 53
42 32
2 47
3 53
4.2 32
I
33
THE two laft obfervations were taken in the har-
bour of Fernando de Norona; and thofe marked
with an * were not determined with the defired accu-
racy, fome accident intervening at the time of the
obfervation.
Ir will be proper, for mariners unacquainted
with the precautions cuftomary in a voyage little
frequented, to obferve, that in this part of the paf-
fage they may expect to meet with very tempeftu-
ous feas, continual fqualls of wind and fogs; fo that
it is abfolutely neceffary in the night and in hazy
days to keep a very careful look out againſt the
ice, large inlands of which, breaking from the
fhore, are driven by the wind beyond the latitude
of 64°, and fhips too often meet with them from
55°
316
A VOYAGE TO Book III.
+
55° upwards. They are uſually nearer the ſhore
towards the end of winter than in fummer, when
beginning to looſen themſelves from the land, they
gradually move from it; and not diffolving by rea-
fon of the continuance of the coldneſs of the air, they
are always feen at higher latitudes than that of
60 degr. The Hector, a regiſter fhip in her paffage
from Cadiz to the fouth-fea was loft on one of theſe
inlands of ice and many others have narrowly escaped
the like misfortune.
THESE maffes of ice and the many eddies of the
currents render it advifeable to keep a good offing
at weathering the Cape in the return from the fouth-
fea, eſpecially as there are fome iflands at a little
diſtance from the coaft, reaching to 56 deg. at
leaft. Theſe are at all times dangerous, both from
the difficulty of determining with certainty, on ac-
count of the currents, the place of the fhip; and
likewife from fogs which are there fo common and
thick, that the whole day is as it were turned to
night, and the darkneſs fuch that thofe on the poop
cannot ſee the men on the forecaſtle. Thefe dangers
render it therefore advifeable, that the fhip in re-
turning to Europe, fhould always ftand into the lati-
tude of 58 or 60 degr.
IN paffing into the fouth-fea, a larger latitude
even from 60 to 63 or 64 degr. as the wind will
admit, and then fteering W. 60 or 80 leagues be-
yond what may feem neceffary by account, will be
adviſeable; becauſe if the fhip fhould have met
with currents, fufficient allowance would be made
for them; and confequently the great inconvenience
prevented of not weathering the cape; which might
be the cafe without the allowance of thefe 60 or 80
leagues. This weſtern diftance, after it appears, by
the reckoning that the fhip has weathered the cape,
will be of little confequence, if we confider the
great advantages gained thereby, it is always better
for
I
CH. II.
317
SOUTH AMERICA.
for the ſhip to be obliged to fail 100 leagues eaſt-
ward, till fhe makes the weſtern coaft of America,
than to want but one of being to windward of it;
for to gain only this one league, the ſhip muft go a
great way back to the fouthward, before the will
be able to get round the cape; eſpecially as there
is little chance of having a fair wind. In a fubfe-
quent chapter, 1 fhall more fully confider this ſubject,
and ſpecify other precautions neceffary to be ob-
ferved in failing on that ocean.
1
CHAP.
III.
Arrival at FERNANDO DE NORONA; and De-
fcription of that Iſland.
E now from our reckonings and other figns
WE concluded that we could not be at any great
diſtance from the iſland we were ſearching for; and
accordingly on the 20th of May, when a fog came
on with rain, we laid to under our top-fails, rather
from an apprehenfion of overſhooting the iſland than
of lofing company or running foul of each other. On
the 21ft, having an appearance of fair weather, the
frigates made fail, and at half an hour after nine, the
Louis Erafme difcovered the ifland bearing weft one
quarter foutherly, diftance nine leagues, as was after-
wards verified by the log-line.
THIS ifland we imagined to be totally deſart;
but from a fuppofition that for the conveniency of
its harbour, fhips of any nation returning from the
Eaft-Indies might, either for water, or on any other
neceffary occafion put in there, it was agreed by the
captains of the French frigates to go in under Eng-
liſh colours; in order the better to conceal their
courfe, and in cafe we found any fhips of the enemy,
to take the beft precautions in their power for de-
fence.
318
A VOYAGE TO
1
BOOK III.
fence. But to our great fatisfaction, we faw, on
our approach, two forts with the Portugueſe flag fly-
ing, and a brigantine with an enfign and long pen-
nant of the fame nation. We were the more fur-
prized at this, as according to all the accounts we
had received, the ifland was a defart, having been
forfaken by the Portugueſe as not fufceptible of til-
lage but on our arrival we were informed, that the
French Eaft India company had made a fettlement
on it as a convenient place for their fhips to put in
at for refreſhments: but the court of Portugal being
unwilling that either the French or any other nation
fhould have a fettlement fo near the coaft of Brazil,
obliged them to evacuate it. This refolution was
taken about ſeven years ago, fince which theſe and
other forts have been erected, and a colony fettled
on the island.
We now began to confider whether it was poffible
to procure any true account of the ſtate of affairs in
Europe; or whether Portugal, in the prefent war,
might have gone farther than a neutrality. But as
this could not be immediately determined, it was
thought adviſeable for the three frigates to agree
on fignals of certain import to be made at going
into this harbour. In order to get in it is neceffary
to weather the iſland on the north fide, as the force
of the current to the fouthward is fuch, that it can-
not be done at leaft under four or five days or more,
beating to windward up to that part where the cur-
rents do not obftruct the entrance. Having been
previouſly informed of this, when we found ourfelves
to the fouthward, and fo near as I have mentioned,
we ſteered S. W. 5 deg. wefterly, and after failing
near a league till we weather'd the iſland, we ſtood
S. foutherly, with the fhip's head directly towards
a large mountain, betwixt two others plainly diſtin-
guiſhable; but that on the E. fide was larger than
that in the middle, and the other on the W. a high
I
4
rocky
CH. III.
319
SOUTH AMERICA.
rocky peak, that looks as it were falling towards
the E. and on account of its height and figure
called the Companario, or the belfrey. The cur-
rents here fet fo ftrongly to the weftward, that after
feveral tacks, inſtead of gaining ground, we found
ourſelves carried further from the ifland; fo that
in order to avoid any further inconveniency, we
came to an anchor at fome diſtance from the proper
anchoring-place, in twenty five fathoms water, the
bottom mud mixed with fhells and gravel; about a
league and a quarter from the fhore, fort Reme-
dios, the largest of thoſe built for the defence of
the harbour, bearing S. S. E. The prodigious fea
here occafioned by the violènce of the wind, and the
ftrength of the current caufing our frigates to ſtrain
on their cables, obliged us to weigh, and ftand far-
ther into the ufual anchoring-place, beyond which
no ſhips are permitted. This is about of a league
from the ſhore: and here on the 23d of March, the
Louis Erafme anchor'd in thirteen fathom water,
the bottom of a fine white and black fand; fort San
Antonio bearing E. 5 deg. foutherly, Remedios, S.
wefterly. Conception S. S. W. 4. deg. wefterly, and
Campanario peak S. W. 3. deg. foutherly.
44
3
THIS ifland has two harbours capable of receiving
ſhips of the greateſt burthen: one is on the N. fide,
and the other on the N. W. The former is in
every reſpect the principal both for fhelter, capa-
city, and the goodneſs of its bottom. But both are
entirely expoſed to the N. and W. tho' thefe winds,
particularly the N. are periodical, and of no long
continuance. Thefe harbours, however, when thefe
winds do prevail, are both impracticable, the fhips
being in danger, and all communication with the
ſhore entirely precluded by the agitations and vio-
lence of the furface; for the coaft being every where
lined with rocks, no boat or veffel can come near it
without the greateſt danger of being beat to pieces.
And
320
BOOK III.
A VOYAE TO
And even in the feafon of the easterly winds, you
cannot land without fome danger. This interval in-
deed affords fome days when the agitation of the fea
is greatly abated, but even in thefe the landing muft
be done with great circumfpection; and at other
times the violence of the fea, and the rocks on all
fides render it utterly impracticable. Thus through-
out the whole year this harbour is by no means a
defirable retreat, but happily ferves on an urgent
neceffity of making land, notwithſtanding the danger
or inconveniency that may attend it.
AFTER the Portugueſe had caufed the French
Eaft India company to remove from this ifland, they
fecured it to themſelves by fortifications; for beſides
the three forts which defend the N. harbour, it has
two others for the defence of the N. W. and two in
the E part of the iſland in a ſmall bay, though fit
only for fmall barks, and difficult even to theſe.
The forts are all of ſtone, fpacious and well provided
with large artillery. Thus though the whole length
of the island is fcarce two leagues, and it does not
yield wherewithal to fupport the garrifon, and the few
other inhabitants, it has no less than feven elegant
forts. It is under the government of Fernambuco,
from whence it is fuppled with provifions and
other neceffaries. But the jealoufy of the Portugueſe,
leaſt any other nation fhould get footing on it, and
make that the fountain of farther pretenfions, has in-
duced them to ſpare no expence for keeping the forts
in a condition to affert their fovereign right againſt
any intruders.
1
THE principal fort ftands on an high ſteep rock
waſhed by the fea, at the foot of which is a ca-
vern, where vait quantities of water are continually
pouring in without any fenfible outlet. In this place
are heard at fhort intervals, very dreadful eructa-
tions of the wind, which being compreffed ftruggles
for a vent againſt the torrent of the water, and by
filling
CH. III.
321
SOUTH AMERICA.
filling the whole mouth of the cave in its afcent,
leaves a large vacuity after its difcharge, which is
done with a noife refembling that of a volcano :
but neither on the oppofite fide of the iſland, nor
throughout its whole circuit, is there any place or
mark which affords the leaft room for conjecture,
with regard to the other mouth of this cavern; ſo
that it is ſuppoſed to be at a great diſtance from it in
the fea,
THE barrenness of the iſland does not proceed
from any defect in its foil, which produces every
fpecies of grain, and fruits common in hot climates,
as experience has fufficiently demonftrated; but from
the want of moiſture: for befides two or three
years often pafs without any rain, there is not the
leaft drop of water to be found throughout the iſland
except in ſome brooks; and by reaſon of this ſcarcity
the plants wither and die away in their growth. The
moſt fruitful parts of the iſland unleſs when ſoften'd
by moisture from the clouds, becomes as arid and
barren as rocks. At the time we were there it was
two years fince they had any rain; but on the
19th of May came on violent fhowers, which con-
tinued the whole time we remained near the iſland.
The inhabitants ufe the water which they fave in pits.
reſembling cifterns, but this as well as the waters of
the brooks on its beginning to rain, grow thick
and brackish. The Portugueſe indeed fay that in the
inward parts of the island where theſe brooks have
their origin, water is never wanting; and that it is
clear and wholeſome.
In the inland part of the iſland is a Portugueſe
town, in which refide the pariſh-prieſt and a go-
vernor, who on advice of any fhips being in fight
repair to the forts, which are all well garrifon'd,
there being only in fort Remedios, while we were
there, near 1000 men, partly regulars fent from
Fernambuco, which are relieved every fix months,
VOL. II.
Y
and
322
BOOK III
A VOYAGE TO
and partly tranſports, from all that coaſt of Brafil:
and fome, though few, which are fettled here with
their families, all being poor people and Meftizos. Here
are alſo ſome Indians who are fent to work on the for-
tifications, and likewife to ferve the governor and
other officers in the inland. Among thefe are an Al-
mojarife or treaſurer and a proveditore, who controuls
the payments and iffues of provifions to the troops
and others: which is done with an equity and exactneſs
worthy the imitation of Europeans.
THE Common food of the inhabitants of all ranks,
both here and throughout Brazil, is the farina de
Pau or wood-meal, which is univerfally eaten inſtead
of bread. It is made of the root called Moniato, of
which I have given an account in the defcription of
Carthagena; as well as of thofe of Name and Yuca.
They first cleanfe it and then macerate it in water,
till the ftrong and noxious juice in it be entirely ex-
tracted: then grate or grind it into meal; which hav-
ing again foaked in feveral waters, they dry, and then
eat it with a ſpoon or mix it with other foods. They
are ſo habituated to it, that even at a table where they
have wheat bread at command, with every mouthful
of it they take a little of this meal. Beſides this flour,
which is in fact, nothing more than wood-meal or
faw-duft, both with regard to tafte and fmell, they
eat a great deal of rice and fugar-cane, brought
from Fernambuco. Here are two tranfports belong-
ing to the king of Portugal, for bringing provifions
and foldiers, the latter of which is done fo methodi-
cally, that the time when they are to leave Brazil
is fettled and thus while one is coming towards
the iſland, the other is returning with the late gar-
rifon.
AFTER the fecond fettlement of the Portugueſe
here, befides the little plantations which was one of
their firſt cares, they alſo brought over cows, hogs, and
ſheep, in order to breed thoſe uſeful creatures; and as
a
CH. III.
323
SOUTH AMERICA.
a fmall quantity of fleſh ferves the Portugueſe, they
are, even in this barren foil fo greatly increaſed, that
during our ſtay here we had the pleaſure of victualling
our crews with freſh provifions; and at our depar-
ture took on board a quantity fufficient to laft us for
feveral days.
THESE harbours or roads abound in fish of five
or fix different fpecies: and among thefe are lam-
preys and Morenos; the laft are of an enormous
fize, but neither of them palatable. At the bottom
of this harbour is taken a fifh called cope, from its
triangular figure. It has a fnout not unlike that of
a hog; and its whole body incloſed in one bone re-
fembling horn, within which is the flesh, intrails and
other parts. On the two upper fuperficies it is co-
vered with green fcales, and underneath with white,
It has two ſmall fins like other fishes, and its tail
which is horizontal, is alfo fmall. On being taken
out of the water it immediately emits from its
mouth a greenish froth of an infupportable fmell,
and which continues for a confiderable time. Some
of our people who had feen this fifh in other parts
affirmed, that its flesh is of fuch a poiſonous na-
ture as to caufe the bodies of thofe who eat, tho'
but moderately of it, to fwell till they burft. But
the people on this inland were as pofitive to the
contrary, and affirmed it from their own experience.
They however make ufe of this precaution before
they eat it, namely, of laying a great weight on it,
that all the malignant particles might the better
ooze out in the foam and after keeping it a whole
day in this manner, they open the hard fhell within
which it is incloſed, boil it till about half ready, and
then ſhift it into another water. By thefe precau-
tions they affirm that all the noxious particles are
extracted. But, in my opinion, this troubleſome
proceſs is thrown away, the tafte of its flesh not be-
ing at all anfwerable: and were it even in any de-
Y 2
gree
}
324
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE TO
gree palatable, furely the remembrance of its fetid
Imell muſt diſguſt the ſtomach.
t
DURING the feaſon in which the turtles lay their
eggs, namely from December.to April, the fhores of
the whole ifland are covered with them; after which
retiring into the fea they diſappear, as was the cafe when
we were at Norona. In theſe months the winds are at
N. and N. W; and from May forward they ſhift to the
E. fometimes inclining to the S. E. and at others to
the N.E. The latitude. of this iſland, as taken by
feveral French pilots, at the time it was in poffeffion
of that nation, is 3° 53′ S. and thus it ftands in the
new French map; and lies 33° W. of the obſervatory
at Paris. Its diſtance from the coaft of Brafil is be-
twixt 60 and 80 leagues; but this is not preciſely de-
termined, the French map placing it 60 leagues E. of
it, whilft the Portugueſe pilots belonging to the tranf-
ports, and who confequently, fhould be well ac-
quainted with the paffage, judge it to be 80 leagues.
By taking a medium betwixt the two, the diftance
will be 70.
ON the frigates coming to an anchor in the bay,
and all our apprehenfions diffipated by a certainty
that the Portugueſe poffeffed this ifland, we took in
our English colours, and hoifted French; and fuc-
ceffively faluted the Portugueſe flag, which was an-
fwered by all the three forts in the bay. Afterwards
an officer of the marquis d'Antin was fent afhore with
compliments to the governor, in the name of the
captains and mafters of the frigates. After a very
polite reception, the governor fignified to the officer
that his duty obliged him to be fully informed what
frigates they were, whence they came, and whither
they were bound; and that he defired the captains
would fend him a written account, together with
their commiffions, invoyances and clearances. And
this indifpenfible demand being complied with, they
might depend on all the friendly offices within his
power.
CH. III.
325
SOUTH AMERICA.
R
power. This was immediately done: and on his
part, after an attentive perufal of the feveral papers,
being fatisfy'd with their contents, he wrote a very
obliging letter to the captains, offering them what-
ever the iſland afforded: for befides his own perſo-
nal diſpoſition to act up to the laws of hofpitality
towards all who ftood in need of fuccour, he and all
the governors of Brafil had exprefs orders in their
commiffions from their fovereign to fhew all man-
ner of friendship to any fhips belonging to other
ftates, which might put in to their ports; and like-
wife to furniſh them all equally with whatever they
wanted, provided it was not detrimental to his peo-
ple or veffels, nor give just caufe or complaint to
any other nation at war. The French captains were
not wanting to fhew their fenfe of fuch humane and
prudent expreffions; and the generous governor foon
fhewed they were fincere, by furniſhing whatever pro-
vifions we required as neceffary, ordering a number
of Indians to affift us in watering, and the tranfport
to receive on board fo much of the cargo of the
Delivrance as was neceffary to lighten her, in order
to her being caulked and careen'd, that fhe might
perform the remainder of the voyage with fafety and
diſpatch.
NOTWITHSTANDING all the civility and friend-
ſhip of the governor in every particular, we were
in the fame condition in the ífland, with regard to
recreation and amufements, as if we had been at fea;
being hardly permitted to go a-fhore; the Portu-
guefe from their natural fufpicion and jealoufy ob-
ferved their orders with fuch precife ftrictneſs, that
to go from the fhore to the principal fort where the
governor of the island refided, was the only walk
allowed and in this he who went a-fhore was at-
tended with three or four foldiers, who never left
him, till he returned to the boat, which was imme-
diately ordered to be put off. Guards were placed
Y 3
in
326
A VOYAGE TO Всок III,
in all quarters of the harbour; and on feeing any
boat, they immediately ran to the place they fup-
pofed fhe intended to land, in order to accompany
the paffengers. Thefe difagreeable precautions, how-
ever, are to be imputed to the abrupt fettlement
made on this ifland by the French Eaft India com-
pany, when the Portugueſe retired from it; and
now thinking it a place of great importance to
the French, they preclude them from any acquain-
tance with the inland parts of the island, leaft fuch
à knowledge might facilitate the execution of their
fuppofed deſigns, namely of taking it from the
Portugueſe, and fortifying themſelves in fuch a man-
ner as not to be eaſily diſlodged.
CHA P. IV.
Voyage from FERNANDO DE NORONA. Engage-
ment with two English privateers.
O
N our arrival in the harbour of this ifland,
our first care was to repair the Delivrance;
but upon examination, her condition was found fo
bad, that to have entirely compleated her would have
occafioned too great a delay. It was therefore thought
proper to repair her only ſo far, as was neceffary
against the danger and fatigue of being continually
at the pump; and accordingly, when we came to
fea we found, that inſtead of repeating that fatiguing
operation every half hour, once in an hour was now
fufficient.
HAVING taken in the neceffary fupplies of wood
and water, with fome calves and hogs, it was de-
termin'd to put to fea with all expedition, in order to
retrieve in fome meaſure, the delay which the repairs,
however flight, of the Delivrance had occafioned.
1
June
CH. IV.
327
SOUTH AMERICA.
June the 10th at ten in the morning the frigates got
under fail, and fteered N. eafterly till June the 18th,
when they were in the latitude of 8 deg. 12 min. N.
and 43 deg. 27 min. E. of Conception, having croſs'd
the line on the 12th under the meridian of 42 deg.
45 min. E. of that city, and 32 deg. 47 min. W. of
Paris. We had fresh gales at S. till we came into
the latitude of 6 deg. N. where the wind abated
and became variable; fometimes N. N. E. and
N. E; and at other times E. S. E. and E. N. E.
but never blowing with any ftrength till the 8th of
July, when, having iteered N. E and N. we found
ourſelves in 34 deg. 31 min N. lat. and 31 deg.
23 min. E. of Conception, where what little wind
we had ſhifted to S. S. W. and S. W. From the
8th to the 31st of July we fteered N. E. and N. E. 4
northerly, except three days, when we ran E. N. E.
and one day N. W. northerly, being forced to alter
qur true courfe by the winds, which veered to the N.
and N. E.
Ι
I
ON the 2d day after leaving the iſland, we loft
fight of all birds of any kind, but faw great num-
bers of flying fish and bonitos. On the 13th of
June in a clear night and fettled breeze at S. E.
without the least appearance of any difagreeable
change, we were furpriz'd by a ftorm of wind and
rain, that all we could do was to bear up under our
courſes. It was indeed too violent to laft; and ac-
cordingly about an hour after the weather cleared up.
On the 15th we began again to fee Tunny fish in large
fhoals; and the 16th it was calm intermix'd with
gentle breezes and fhowers, till the 17th. The fame
weather continued the 18th and 19th, with now and
then thick clouds in the horizon, which we obferved
afterwards to go off in violent fhowers.
On the 20th of June in the lat. of 9 deg. 28 min,
N. we faw a bird, the only one which had appeared
fince our departure from the ifland. It was fomething
Y 4
larger
328
A VOYAGE TO
น
BOOK III.
larger than the Pardela, of a dark brown colour,
except the breaft and lower parts of the body, and
the wings remarkably long. On the 22d fqualls and
fhowers. On the 24th we faw great numbers of
Tunnies, flying fish and cavallas, a fiſh not unlike a
mackrel; and a bird of the fame kind as that we faw
on the 21ft.
ON the 27th, being in 17 deg. 57 min..N. lat.
the fea was covered with a kind of weed called Sar-
gafo, which pickled, is by many thought equal to
Samphire and along this verdant furface our courfe
continued till the 7th of July, that is, till we were
in the lat. of 33 deg. 31 min. when little of it was to
be ſeen. Whereas for fome days before the whole
ocean within fight was, as it were, covered with it.
During this time we alfo faw fome birds; but par-
ticularly in the afternoon of the 29th of June, and
on the 30th in the morning. Some of theſe were of
a middling fize and of a dark brown colour; alfo
fome black Rabiahorcados; and on the morning of
the laſt day we alfo faw feveral rabijuncos. On the
ift of July we again had fight of the abovementioned
brown birds, but without any of the other two
fpecies and on the 3d, being in 27 deg. 34 min.
latitude, and 32 deg. 27 min. E. of Conception, we
faw no kind of large fifh, tho' abundance of the
flying fish.
On the 8th being in 34 deg. 31 min. latitude, we
again had fight of the Dorados; and likewiſe ſaw a
middle-fized bird all black, which for a long time
continued hovering about the fhips. On the 9th in
the evening, we were furprized with the appearance
of a ſmall whale; and on the 10th in the morning,
being in the latitude 36 deg. 57 min. and 32 deg.
6 min. E. of Conception, we faw feveral birds of a
middling ſize, with long and broad wings, the neck,
head and tail black, and the other parts of the body
white.
2
ON
CH. IV.
329
SOUTH AMERICA.
On the 10th, being in 36 deg. 57 min. latitude,
and 32 deg. 6. min. eaſt. of Conception, by my
reckoning, according to which, and likewife in the
Dutch and common French chart, the iſland of Flo-
res, one of the Azores, lay E.N.E. 2 degrees N. dif
tance 112 leagues. In the French chart are fet
down fome iſlands, which, as being of later difco-
very, do not occur in the Dutch: among theſe is
Santa Ana bearing weftward five leagues; but by
the new French chart, the iſland of Flores lay E. N.E.
5 deg, eafterly and at the diftance of 167 leagues.
All this morning we had a cockling fea coming
from the N. W. and by W. which we conjectured
might proceed from the proximity of the inland of
Santa Ana, as by our reckoning it muſt have been
very near us.
ÖN the 17th being in 41 deg. 49 min. latitude,
and 36 deg. 48 min E. of Conception, we were
amufed with the fight of vaft flights of birds, of a
middling bigneſs, and of a brown colour intermix-
ed with black, refembling on the whole the Cormo-
rant. On the 18th we alfo faw great numbers of the
fame birds; but from the 19th when we were in
42 deg. 53 min. latitude, and 39 deg. 23 min. E.
of Conception, they gradually decreaſed fo that we faw
very few of them.
FROM the time of our leaving the iſland of Fer-
nando de Norona, till we reach'd the equinoctial,
the S. latitude by obfervation every day exceeded
that by account ten or eleven minutes, that is, the ſhip
did not in reality, make fo much way as ſhe ſeemed
to do by the log-line. But after paffing the equa-
tor, the latitude by obfervation continued ftill to
exceed that of the reckoning taken from the log-
line and as we ſtood directly north, it appeared
that the fhip's real way exceeded the diftance mea-
fured; whence this corollary may be deduced, that
in the fouthern hemifphere near the equinoctial, the
waters
1
330
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE TO
Į
waters tend fouthward; and that, on the contrary, in
the northern hemifphere the current runs northward;
which agrees with the accounts given of thofe, who
in the voyages to the Eaft Indies have feveral times
had occafion to cross the line. Till the 24th of June
the courfe of the waters continued northward 10 or
11 min. a day; but when we reached 14 deg. 22 min.
the latitude by obfervation began to correfpond with
that by account.
log-line
THE differences between the latitudes by account
and obſervation can only be attributed to the courſe
of the water in the two hemifpheres; and not to any
defect n the meaſurement by the log-line: for were
that the cafe, how can it be reconciled with this
known circumftance, that the way of the fhip whilft
in the fouthern hemifphere was in reality lefs than
it appeared by the log line: and on coming into the
northern hemifphere, it was quite the reverfe. As
little can it be charged on any defect in the inftru-
ments; for beſides the daily agreement of all con-
cerning the difference, when we were got out of theſe
oppofite courfes of the water, the latitude by obferva-
vation agreed with that by account. The preceding
reaſons alfo fhew, that the perſon who tended the
log line was not carelefs; for if any error had been
committed here, the difference would have continued,
the management of it having on all occafions been
entrufted to the fame perfon, who befides his fobriety
and attention, was a complete artiſt. But the above
caufe is further evident from the continual unifor-
mity of the diftance, never exceeding ten or twelve
minutes; or decreafing betwixt ten and twelve
minutes every day: and that if on any day the lati-
tude had not been obferved, on the day following
the difference was found double; a circumſtance that
not only proves the reality of the currents here, but
likewife confirms what we have faid in chapter 2d,
concerning thoſe in our paffage from Conception to this
inland,
CH. IV.
SOUTH AMERICA.
33I
ifland, exclufive of thofe which will be mentioned
in the fequel.
On the 7th of June, being in 33 deg. 31 min.
latitude, and 31 deg. 37 min. eaft of the meridian
of Conception, we fuddenly felt a ftrong motion of a
current, which the more furpriz'd us, as we perceived
nothing of that kind the day before, tho' in the fame
latitude. However, we were confirmed that we were
not miſtaken by our reckoning the following days,
till the 11th, the latitude by obfervation daily ex-
ceeding by 13 or 15 min. that by account; but
on the eleventh they again agreed. On the 12th in
39 deg. 44 min. latitude, that by obſervation again
proved different to that by account, the former be-
ing less than the latter, by 13 min. And on the
13th the difference continued to be the ſame. Thus
the courſe of the current continued leffening the
fhip's way, by carrying us fouthward till the 15th
and 16th, when the difference became greater, but
in an oppofite direction; that is, the currents car-
ried us northward. On the 17th they continued the
fame courſe, but on the 18th, we found 27 min. dif-
ference; having fuddenly entered into waters of a
different courſe, that is, they again carried us fouth-
ward. Had this variety of differences been reported
only by a fingle perfon, doubtlefs from the ſtrange-
nefs of the phænomenon, it would have been look-
ed upon as a mistake in the obfervation; but the
reality of theſe dangers does not now admit of
any rational doubt. The obfervations were taken by
feven perfons, each with a different inftrument, one
of which was a quadrant invented by the celebrated
Mr. Hadley, and all agreed in the differences. From
the 18th day of the month to the 20th the diffe-
rence betwixt the latitudes by obfervation, and that
by account, proved to be 40 min, which was near
double of that which had appeared in the courſe of
the 18 and on the 20th we were in the latitude of
43 deg.
+
332
A VOYAGE TO BOOK III.
43 deg. 8 min. and 38 deg. 57 min. E. of the meri-
dian of Conception.
NOTICE has already been taken of the indifferent
-condition of the Delivrance at our departure from
the iſland of Fernando de Norona. And thus it
continued till the 16th, when, whether it proceeded
from the working of the fhip or any other caufe,
the water increaſed fo faft that the fhip was reduced
to that diſtreſs, which had beeen the chief occafion
of our puttiug into the above iſland, and of our
long ftay there. On the 20th it increaſed upon us
in fuch a manner that the pumps were kept conti-
nually going the whole night; but on the 21ft it
fuddenly abated to near a fourth part of what it
had been the day before; a moſt ſeaſonable relief to
the ſhip's company ſpent with a fatigue, which their
fears rendered ſtill more painful. We obſerved that
the water continued to decreaſe from the time of
our getting into the fargafo or weeds, fo that on the
27th the ſhip ſcarce made an eighth part of the water
as on the 20th. This happy change could be attri-
buted only to the fargafo fuck'd into fuch feams as
were open; and this farther appear'd by ſeveral pie-
ces of it thrown out by the pump; befides a confi-
derable quantity of the weed was feen ſticking to the
outfide of the fhip's bottom. But on the 29th the
water began again to encreaſe, and foon after abated;
in fuch variations it continued during the whole voy-
age, And we according to its ftate, fluctuating be-
twixt hope and fear.
ON the 21st of July, about fix in the morning,
being in 43 deg. 57 min. latitude, and 39 deg. 44
min. E. of Conception, we diſcovered two fail within
three leagues of us; bearing E. N. E. The rays of
the fun had hinder'd us getting fight of them fooner.
They ſtood to the S. W. and our three ſhips kept on
together N E. without altering their courfe till feven
in the morning, when being within little more than
cannon
f
CH. IV.
333
SOUTH AMERICA.
cannon-fhot of each other, the largeſt of the two fired
a gun with fhot, and at the fame time both hoifted
Engliſh colours, our frigates alfo formed a line,
tho' little in a condition for fighting; for befides
being weakly mann'd, and the want of arms and
ammunition, they had no nettings for fecuring the
men, ſo that both the quarter deck and forecaſtle
were expofed.
WE, however, after the enemy had hoifted their
colours, continued failing in a line, but ftill in our
proper courſes, till the ſmalleſt of the Engliſh fhips
bore down upon us, and fired feveral fhot to oblige us
to hoiſt our colours; on which at half an hour after
ſeven a fire both of great guns and muſketry began on
both fides; and at eight o'clock the fhips were within
piſtol fhot of each other.
THE force of the three French frigates was this,
the Louis Erafme carried twenty guns; eight on the
quarter deck of eight pounders, and the twelve on
the fore-caſtle fix pounders, and had betwixt ſeventy
and eighty perfons on board feamen, paffengers and
boys. The marquis d'Antin alfo carried ten guns
on a fide, the five aftermoft of fix pounders, and
the five forward of four; and had aboard about
fifty or fifty five perfons. La Delivrance was ſtill
finaller than the other two, having only feven four
pounders on a fide, and all the perfons on board did
not exceed fifty one.
THE enemy who afterwards proved privateers, were
confiderably fuperior in force. The largeſt of them
called the Prince Frederick, commanded by captain
James Talbot, carried thirty guns, twenty four of
them being twelve pounders, befides crossbar ſhots
which ſtuck in our mafts and fides, and fix fix pounders
on the quarter deck. The name of the ſmalleſt pri-
vater was the Duke, captain Morecock, had ten
guns on a fide, and thefe likewife twelve pounders,
befides padereros on both, which did great execution
on
334
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE TO
1
on our rigging. The Prince Frederick to all ap-
pearance keeping a continual fire both with the great
guns and fmall arms, could not carry lefs than two
hundred or two hundred and fifty men, and the
complement of the Duke from the like circumſtances
we concluded to be about one hundred and fifty or
two hundred.
THE fight was maintain'd with great refolution
and alacrity on both fides, though under this confi
derable diſadvantage to the French, that one broad
fide from the enemy did twice the execution of
one from their fhips and as for mufketry, with
which the English were well furniſhed, and kept an
inceffant fire, all that the French could ufe, was a-
bout twelve or fourteen on board each fhip, it be-
ing prefent death for any one to fhew himſelf on the
forecaſtle, and a mufket was what very few on board
knew how to make uſe of. At length about half an
hour after ten the marquis d'Antin, which was in
our rear ftruck to the largeſt of the enemy,. with
which ſhe was engaged, after lofing her captain, who
died encouraging his men with the fame vigour that
he had begun the action. And however reluctant
they who furvived were to the furrender, it was now
become of abfolute neceffity, the fhip having received
fo many fhot betwixt wind and water, that fhe was
on the point of finking:
THE captain of the Delivrance, which was the
headmoſt ſhip, feeing one of our company taken,
and judging from this diminution of our force,
there was ſtill lefs hope of a fucceſsful event, he pre-
dently crowded fail, that whilft the enemy's fhips
were taken up with their prize, that he might get from
them; for no fooner had the marquis d'Antin, ftruck
her colours, than the leaſt of the enemy's fhips with-
drew from the action which fhe had alternately
maintain'd with the other two, in order to fecure
the prize, whilft the larger was to renew the fight.
If
CH. IV.
335
SOUTH AMERICA.
It was half an hour after eleven when the Delivrance
thus began to feek her fafety in flight: the Louis
Erafme could not heſitate to follow her example,
but the largeſt of the Engliſh privateers was not
long in coming up with her, and by the fuperiority
of their force, and the vigour with which they ex-
erted it, foon laid her under a neceffity of ſurren-
dering, though not till the worthy captain had been
wounded, ſo that he died the following day. The
two privateers being now taken up each with its
prize, and the S. E. wind freſhening, favoured the
eſcape of the Delivrance, which ftood N. E. and at
four in the evening got quite out of fight both of
privateers and prizes.
THE cargoes of the marquis d'Antin and the Louis
Erafme, thus taken, were valued at three millions of
dollars, two in coin, gold and filver, and ingots, or
wrought plate. The other confifted in cacao, which
was the principal part of her lading; fome Quin-
quina and Vigonia wool.
CHAP. V.
Voyage of the Delivrance to LOUISBURG H in
Ifle ROYALE or CAPE BRITON, where she was
also taken.
THE
HE captain of the Delivrance, after this, in
all appearance, fortunate efcape, confulted with
his officers what courfe was moſt adviſeable to ſteer.
Among them was one who had often been at Louiſburgh
in the iſland of Cape Breton, near Newfoundland;
and had a perfect knowledge of the fituation and
nature of the place. He likewife informed us, that
in the beginning of the fummer, two men of war
were every year fent thither, to carry money and
troops
336
A VOYAGE TO Book III.
!
troops for that place and Canada; and likewife to
protect the cod-fifhery.
As this was the conftant practice in time of the
moſt profound peace, it was natural to fuppofe, that
in a war with a maritime power, the number of fhips
would be increaſfed: at leaft, this precaution had
never been omitted in the laſt war under Lewis XIV,
the place being of the utmoſt importance to France,
as the key of Canada, the moſt ſecure port for the
fifhery, and carrying on a very confiderable commerce
with the iſlands of St. Domingo and Martinico.
Theſe reaſons and this courfe appearing, lefs dan-
gerous than that towards the coaft of Spain, de-
termined the captain to purfue what he thought
the fafeft method, and make for Cape Breton: be-
fides, the condition of our fhip fcarce permitted any
choice, as affording little hopes that the ever would
be able to reach any port in Spain. We had like-
wife been informed at Conception, a little before
our departure, that a company had been formed in
London for fitting out thirty privateers from twenty
to thirty guns, and to be ftationed fo as to intercept
all fhips coming from the Indies. Though this
was in fact a falfe alarm, the misfortune of meet-
ing the two abovementioned of a force agreeing with
the report, gave it to us all the appearance of truth;
and we concluded that there must be inany more
cruifing in proper ftations nearer the coafts. This
opinion was very natural to us, who for above two
years had received no other accounts; and after
what had happened, it would have feemed an inex-
cufable ſtep, to have expofed fuch a valuable cargo,
as that of the Delivrance, in fuch a heavy veffel, as
muft unquestionably have fallen into the hands of the
firſt enemy that ſhould give her chace. All her force
confifted in fourteen four-pounders, and about fifteen
muſkets; befides nine of our people had been dif-
abled in the laft action: and what was ftill worſe, we
had
t
#
GM. V..
337
SOUTH AMERICA.
}
had little or no powder. Another bad circumftance
was, that from the damage the fhip had received in the
action, fhe made fo much water, that though we
began to pump immediately on the conclufion of
it, it was midnight before we could free the ſhip;
and every one who had received no hurt in the action,
without diſtinction, voluntarily took his turn in the
labour. Weighty as theſe reaſons were, that the cap-
tain and his officers might not be charged with taking
ſuch an important ſtep of themſelves, a repreſentation
was alfo made to the paffengers, who all readily ap-
proving of it as the beſt reſource in our prefent exigency,
the very fame evening our courfe was altered; and we
began to fteer for Louiſbourg as a port of ſafety.
The place where the action happened, according to
my reckoning and the new French chart, was 96 leagues
N.W. 5 degrees wefterly from the iſland of Flores.
After changing our courſe we ſteered N. W. one
quarter wefterly, and W. one quarter northerly, till
the 28th, when by obfervation we found ourſelves in
the latitude of 46 degrees, 18 minutes, and 23 de-
grees, 45 minutes eaft of Conception, the winds ge-
nerally being SS. W. and W. S. W. One day only
we had them at N. W. and W. N. W. and this was on
the 23d after a very violent ftorm, which began at
twelve in the night of the 22d, at E. S. E. whence at
fix in the morning the wind flew about to the S. and S.
one quarter wefterly, whilft we lay to under our main-
fail; and, when the wind offered, made way under that
and a topfail with a reef in both; befides the high feas
which fuch a ſtorm naturally occafioned, we had alſo
fogs and rains.
From the 46th degree we continued fteering W:
fometimes a little towards the S. or N. endeavouring
always to keep that latitude, though fometimes the
winds obliged us to alter our courfe: for though they
were generally S. S. W. and S. W. though oftner in
VOL. II.
Ꮓ
the
338
BOOK III
A VOYAGE TO
1
the firſt than the ſecond; they fometimes came about
to the N. E. E. and S. E. and theſe changes were al-
ways attended with hurricanes.
ON the 5th of Auguft we found ourfelves in the
latitude of 45°, 14, and 24°, 16" E. of the meridian
of Conception; the wind, which till fix in the evening
of the foregoing day had been S. now became calm;
and at two in the morning, we had it at W. N. W.
and N. W. from whence it veered N. about to the E.
and from thence again returned back to the N. E.
freſhening more than it had done before. Afterwards
it began to blow in fqualls, and again ſhifted to the N.
On the 6th, at eight in the evening, it veered to the
E. and two hours after to E. S. E. where it continued
till fix in the morning of the feventh, when it ſettled
in the S. E. and abated; tho' its greateſt force here
had never been fuch as to render it neceffary for us to
lay to, as had been the cafe before, and was again
afterwards.
On the 7th, being in the latitude of 45°, 17', and
the wind at S. at two in the afternoon it fuddenly
flew about to the W. where its extreme violence
obliged us to furl every fail, and lie to. We had
alſo here a very high fea to encounter with, but in
two hours our apprehenfions were relieved, the wind
fhifting to the N. W. and abating confiderably; and
two hours after it again returned to the N. whence
at ten at night it veered to W. one quarter foutherly,
and became fo moderate that we could carry our top-
fails. Here it fettled, and the weather became fair
and eafy; but thefe variations, by forcing us out of
our true courſe, were of great detriment to us, as will
be ſeen in the fequel.
On the 10th, being in the latitude of 45°, 14', and
17°, 25′ E. of Conception, with the wind at S. it
began to blow, and at five in the morning we were
obliged to take in all the reefs in our top fails; it
then
་
1
CH. V.
339
SOUTH AMERICA.
then ſhifted to the S. S. W. with a prodigious fea;
ſo that at three in the afternoon we were obliged to
lie to under a reefed mainfail. At ten o'clock it
fhifted to the S. W. and S. W. one quarter wefterly;
when abating a little on the 11th, at fix in the
morning, we made way under our forefail and top-
fails all reef'd; and the wind continued for fome
time in this rhomb..
THE ufual inclination of the wind in theſe feas, and
common to all parts of the northern hemifphere, is to
follow the fun from E. to S. S. S. W. and N. fome-
thing like what has been obferved in the chapters
which treat of the South-fea. And thus when it has
blown a ftorm, inftead of continuing its inclination,
it returns; and tho' with all the appearance of a
calm, within a day or two it rifes again with redoubled
fury. This is a difficulty not eafily folved, for among
the great number of perfons, otherwife doubtlefs re-
ſpectable for their eminent talents, who have applied
themſelves to inveftigate the caufes and origin of
winds, not one of them has accounted for their irregu-
larities and gradations, both with regard to their va-
riations, impulfe, and direction.
In this paffage to the Newfoundland feas, ftorms
are very frequent, yet they differ according to the
feafons of the year: We have already ſeen that
they moſt uſually happen when the wind is at S.
and tho' the northern winds are very ftrong, yet
they do not equal thofe of the former quarters. On
attending to this particular, a certain conformity will
be found betwixt the two oppofite hemifpheres; as in
each, befides the circulation of the winds, the ſtorms
happen when they blow from that part of the pole
oppofite to that which is neareſt each hemifphere. In
the fouth fea the ftorms generally rife from the N. and
W. winds; and in that of the N. they are occafioned
by the S. and W. winds.
2
Z 2
THE
340
A VOYAGE TO BOOK III.
THE hard gales which are met with in fummer in
the paffage to Newfoundland, are of no long conti-
nuance, like the two with which we were furprized in
this voyage; but they are more fudden and violent
than in winter; for from their beginning to the very
height of their violence is fcarce half an hour; and
though in this feafon they are not very frequent, yet
it never paffes without fome: but in winter they con-
tinue three or four days fucceffively, and with no
fmall force. Thefe of both feaſons are more or lefs
accompanied with fogs and fhowers.
JULY the gift, according to my account, at eight
in the morning, being in 45 degrees, 57 minutes lati-
tude, and 27 degrees, 3 minutes E. of Conception, we
found by the whitish tinge of the water, that we had
entered on the bank; and on founding found 55 fa-
thom, and the bottom, fand mixed with ſmall ſhells.
On comparing the founding and the bottom with the
new French map, my reckoning of the courfe was fix
or ſeven leagues too forward; that is, we had that di-
ftance to fail before we came to a bottom of that kind.
On the evening we tack'd with an intent of leffening our
latitude, as well to keep at a diſtance from Placentia,
as to avoid fome fhoals lying at the weft end of the
bank in the latitude of 46 deg. and on this account
we again ftood from it.
1
On the 2d of Auguft being in the latitude of 45
deg. 30 min. 30 fec. 27 deg. 2 min. E. of Concep-
tion, we founded, and found 70 fathom water, and
the bottom rocky. We continued our foundings every
day, and found the bottom as ſpecified in the follow-
ing table:
Days
CH.V. SOUTH AMERICA.
341
Days
Latitude
Long. from Fathom of
Bottom
Merid, of
Water.
Conception
4 Aug. 45
14
24 38
40
ſmall gravel
5666
45
12
23 50
48
brown gravel
45
8
22 56
48
ftony
45 9
22
30
50
ditto
45 II
21
5 I
55
45 18
19 53
35
8
45 23
20
12
45
ſmall gravel and fand
of different colours
coarſe white fand and
fmall gravel
Colour of
the Water.
green
whitish
fea blue
ditto
} light blue
'}
dark blue
coarſe fand of all co-whitiſh
lours and ſmall gravel green
8
45 26
20
7 no bottom at
ditto
So fathom
9
45
20
19
12
dittn
10
45 16
17
14
45
flony
45 19
16
32 no bottom at
light blue
of a blue.
ifh green
dark green
80 fathom
;
JULY the 27th, in the latitude of 45 deg. 54. min.
and 32 deg. 6 min. E. of Conception, we faw fome
birds as it were ſporting on the water. The fize of
them was fomething lefs than a wood-pigeon, and all
over black except the tail which was white. They
who are converfant in theſe voyages fay, that they
are ſeen at a great diſtance from the bank; and thus
we found it, being obliged to leffen our longitude
5 deg. to return to our first foundings. We alſo ſaw
two birds of that kind called Penguins, of which
there are great numbers on the bank: and tho' in the
common opinion thefe birds never fly to any great
diftance from it, we found it otherwife. Thefe pen-
guins are of the bignefs and ſhape of a goofe, alſo
with little or no tail. They fly against the courſe of
the water; their plumage on their breaſt and belly is
white, but their back, the upper part of their wings
and all their neck brown. As fifh is their whole
fubfiftence, they dart down into the water with por-
digious celerity, and continue a long time under it in
purfuit of their prey.
On the 30th, in the latitude of 45 deg. 54 min. and
28 deg. deg. 43 min. E. of Conception, we again faw
Z 3
fome
1
342
A VOYAGE TO BOOK III.
7
ſome of the fame birds as on the 27th, befides fome
ſmall whales near the fhip. During the whole re-
mainder of the voyage we had always fight of theſe
kind of birds, and another very nearly refembling the
Penguin; but the bill was black, very large, and of
a fquare form. Both kinds fwarm on the bank, but
without it they are not fo frequent. On our approach
to the bank we alfo faw great numbers of cavallas,
which abound all along the coafts. We likewife faw
ſome ſhoals of tunny fifh. About the edge of the
bank there is always a great fwell: but on coming
within the foundings, even in a hard gale of wind,
tho' attended with a high fea, it does not continue any
longer than the wind; the one fubfiding as the other
abates.
IF I have been fo very circumftantial in my ac-
count of the voyage from Conception, and given a
detail not only of the winds and times of the year,
but alſo of the agitation of the fea, in ſtorms and
hard gales, the courſe, the colour of the water, and
the figns of birds and fishes, I hope it will be attri-
buted to my zeal for the improvement of naviga-
tion, and my defire that mariners who are ftrangers
to this voyage, might be acquainted with theſe
things which are certainly of real utility; as by thus
acquiring a knowledge of the latitudes and longi-
tudes, which are punctually fet down at every fign or
an extraordinary occurrence, they might be acquaint-
ed with the particulars of every part; and confe-
quently the better enabled to take the moſt proper
meaſures; and that nothing may be wanting for their
information in the particulars of this laft voyage, I
fhall poftpone the account of our misfortune at Louif-
bourg, to infert here
A table of variations of the needle as obferved in
our paffage, from Fernando de Norona, to Cape
Breton, according to the latitudes, and longitudes
from
CH. V.
343
SOUTH AMERICA;
from the iſland of Conception, in which the obferva-
tions were made.
Days of the
Lat.
Long.
Variations
Month.
D. M.
D. M.
D. M.
June 11
I
24 S.
42 35
239
2 39 E.
12
o
16 N.
42 50
2 43 E.
17
7 14
43 32
0.38 W.
19
8 17
43 21
I 40
27
18 16
35 46
1 15
July 3
27 11
32 34
0 10
3
27 58
32 24
1 20
Time of mak-
ing Obfervation.
Evening.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Morning.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Evening.
4679
28 47
32 17
1 20
Morning.
32 44
33 16
31 58
6 50
Evening.
31 44
6 55
Morning.
35 47
31 46
7 0
Evening.
12
40 10
3258
8 5
Morning.
13
40 22
34 17
10 55
Evening-
17
41 35
36 16
11
Morning.
20
43 24
38 41
II O
Evening.
25.
45 7
34 29
15 50
29
46 7
28 10
14 30
Ditto.
Ditto,
30
45 59
28 16
13 10
Morning,
Aug. 5
45 12
23 41
20 15
Evening.
8
45 22
20 12
13 20
Morning.
8 45 27
19 45
13 0
Evening.
9
45 22
18 39.
15 15
Morning.
1
On the 24th of July, in the latitude of 44 deg.
52 min. by obſervation, which was 25 min. lefs than
that by account, and according to my eftimate
36 deg. 6 min. eaft of Conception; no cbfervation
had been taken fince the 20th. But we found that
the currents had in each days failing carried the ſhip
6 min. S. On the 25th in the latitude of 45 deg.
6 min. and 34 deg. 47 min. eaft of the fame meri-
dian, we again found the latitude by obfervation to be
8 min. less than that by account. But afterwards they
agreed till we had paſs'd the bank, when on the 12th
of Auguft, 16 deg. 2 min. eaſt of Conception, our
latitude by obfervation, was 45 deg. 58 min. an ex-
cefs of juft 30 min. beyond that by the reckoning;
and this great difference had commenced on the 9th,
Z 4
when
344
A VOYAGE TO
Book IIJ.
when we were in 45 deg. 22 inin, latitude, and 19 deg.
a min. east of Conception.
FROM this difference it is manifeft that, on the
weft fide of the bank, betwixt it and Cape Breton,
that is under the meridian of Placentia, the currents
fet to the northward, agreeably to the opinion of the
pilots in thofe feas, who all declare that the fea fets into
the gulph of Canada by the ftreight betwixt cape
Roze, the most western point of the island of New-
foundland, and the north cape in the ifle royale;
and diſcharges itſelf by the ftreight of Belifle, formed
by the main land and the north point of Newfound-
land and we fenfibly found on making the coaft,
that the waters carried the fhip northward.
ON the 12th of Auguft in the morning, we faw
a great number of thofe kinds of fea-fowl which al-
ways keep near the fhore, and particularly feveral
gulls, from which with the courfe we had fteered from
the time of our coming into foundings on the 2d of
Auguft, we concluded ourtelves to be not far from
land, having alfo diminished our longitude exactly
11 deg. In this conjecture we were foon confirmed
by weeds, pieces of wood and boughs floating on the
water, and at twelve o'clock we actually made the
land, tho' at a great diftance. At four o'clock in
the afternoon we had a plain fight of it; but being
low and level we were obliged to fhorten fail and
lie to, till the following day, when at half an hour
after fix in the morning, we faw the island of Ef-
catari, which lies about five leagues north of Louif-
burgh: but the wind continuing S. W. and the current
fetting the fhip northward, we were obliged to work
up towards the harbour.
1
ON the 13th, at fix in the morning, we faw a
brigantine plying along the coaft for Louifbourg;
the Delivrance on this hoifted a French enfign,
which was anfwered by the other, firing two or
three guns, This gave us no manner of uneafinefs,
t
con-
CH. V.
345
SOUTH AMERICA.
concluding that the brigantine fufpecting, fome deceit
in our colours, had fired thofe guns as a warning
to the fiſhing barks without, to get into the har
bour; and they put the fame conftruction on this
firing, immediately fhewing the greatest hurry in
making for a place of fafety. An hour afterwards,
being near eight o'clock, we faw coming out of Lou-
ifburgh two men of war, which we immediately took
for fhips belonging to a French fquadron ftation'd
there for the fecurity of that important place, and that
they had come out on the fignal from the brigan-
tine, that a fhip had appeared in fight, left it might
be fome Boſton privateer, with a deſign on the fiſhery.
Thus we were under no manner of anxiety, especially
as they came out with French colours, and one of
them had a pennant. All the forts of Louiſbourg, as
well as all the fhips in the harbour, which we could
now plainly diftinguiſh, wore the like difguife. Here
I must refer to the reader's imagination the compla-
cency and joy which fwell'd every heart, imagining
that we now faw the end of all our fears and dif-
afters ;
a place of fafe repofe after a voyage of
danger and fatigue. Then let the reader be pleated
to think what an edge the melancholy diſappoint-
ment gave to our aftoniſhment and dejection, when
amidſt the indulgence of fuch pleafing ideas, we
found our hopes deftroyed, and all our viſionary
fchemes of delight, ending in the real miferies of
captivity.
We were now fo near the two ſhips which were
coming out of the harbour, that orders had been
given for hoifting the boat out to go with an officer
on board that which feemed to be the commodore;
and we unloaded our guns of their fhot to falute
them. The fmalleft which carried fifty guns lead-
ing the way, came along fide of us; then indeed
from what we both heard and faw, our fatal difap-
pointment became too evident, and our misfortune
was
346
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK III.
was immediately confirmed to us, the fhip hoifting
its national colours, and firing into us carried away
the foretopfail halliards, that the fail drop'd down,
and at the fame time the larger fhip came up on the
ftar-board fide of us. Betwixt two fuch enemies no
reaſonable perſon will offer to charge the captain of
the Delivrance with cowardice, that without offering
any refiftance, which would have been a wild temerity,
he immediately ftruck his colours. The boat from
the ſmalleſt ſhip came aboard and took poffeffion of us,
having as ſhe advanced been hoifted out for that pur-
poſe: and thus after firing only one gun, return'd into
the harbour with a very rich prize.
THIS accident gave a total change to our flattering
expectations; brought ruin on our fortunes: overthrew
all our ideas of the uſe and improvement of them. Our
joy was ftifled in its birth; and inftead of our antici-
pated repofe, we entered on a new fcene of troubles
and diftrefs, aggravated by the lofs of our fubftance
and liberty, where we had promis'd ourſelves recrea-
tion and enjoyment.
THESE two Engliſh men of war were the Sunder-
land, captain John Brett, of fixty guns, and the Chefter,
captain Philip Durell, of fifty: and it was to the latter
that the Delivrance ftruck. The officers, captain
Durell, for their better accommodation, fent to the
houſe which had been affigned him, when, purſuant
to the articles of capitulation at the taking of Louif-
bourg, the inhabitants were ſent back to France. This
houfe he made but little ufe of, living continually
aboard the ſhip.
As to my papers, on our departure from Fernando
de Norona, I had made a packet of all the plans and
relations which might have been of fervice to the
enemy; alfo the vice-roy's letters and other papers
committed to my care, that on an exigency they might
be ready to be funk. I had alfo defired of the
captain, the ſupercargo and other officers, that in
-
cafe
CH. V.
347
SOUTH AMERICA.
cafe it was my fate fuddenly to fall in the action,
they would do me that kind office. Accordingly
when I ſaw that there was no poffibility either of
oppofing or getting clear of the enemy, I threw
them into the water, with fome bullets faften'd to
them, to diſappoint the alertneſs of the enemy, who
otherwiſe would unquestionably have been for laying
hold of them; but my papers relating to the men-
furation of the degrees of the meridian, together
with the phyſical and aftronomical obfervations and
hiſtorical narratives, I kept by me, the contents
being of univerſal concern, and no detriment could
reſult from the enemy's knowledge of them: but
as among men who feem'd to mind nothing but
what was filver or gold, they would have ran a
great riſk of being abufed or confounded among a
multitude of others, I thought proper to acquaint
the captains on what fervice I had been, and as
thoſe papers tended to the improvement of naviga-
tion, took the liberty of recommending them to
their favour upon which, after having looked on
them with fome attention, they laid them afide, and
carried them afterwards to the commander of the
fquadron, with whom they remain'd, till, together
with myſelf, they were ſent to England.
CHAP. VI.
Don GEORGE JUAN's Voyage from LA CON-
CEPTION to GUARICO in the land of SAN
DOMINGO ; and from thence to BREST in
FRANCE, together with his return to MA-
DRID.
HE frigate la Lys, having on the 5th of Fe-
Tbruary, parted company from the three others,
on account of her making fix inches water every
hour,
348.
✰
A VOYAGE TO BOOK III.
hour, which would naturally increaſe by the working
of the ſhip, ſteered directly for Valparaifo, where
making all poffible difpatch in careening and watering,
on the ift of March fhe was ready to put to fea. The
winds, as is ufual at that ſeaſon, being at S. and S. W.
the Lys was obliged to ftand to the northward of
the iſland of Juan Fernandes; and drive till fhe was
in the latitude of 32 deg. 18, min. where the fell
in with a wind at S. E. which carried her to the la-
titude of 35 deg. and 11 deg. W. of the meridian
of Valparaifo; here it fhifted to the S. W. and
thence along the N. W. quarter to 'the N. in which
time the Lys only got into the latitude of 36° 30′
being the 17th day of the month, Here the wind
veered to the S. and S. W. blowing very hard, which
caufed fuch a fea that they were obliged to lie. to
under their mainfail. On the 18th, tho' the violence
of the wind abated, it continued in the fame point :
afterwards it changed to the W. and N. W. where
it continued till the fhip came into 40° 30′ latitude,
ftill keeping the fame longitude of 11°. Here
fhe met with a fecond hard gale at fouth, which they
weathered in the fame manner, till it abated, ſhifting
immediately to the S.W. weft, and N.W.
ON the 25th, in the latitude of 469 they met
with a ftorm at W. which obliged them to lie to
under a reefed mainfail. After its greateft violence
was fpent, till the fourth of April, when they found
themſelves in 58° latitude and 1 E. long. from Val-
paraiſo, the firſt meridian for the courfe of the
voyage, the wind fhifted from S. to S. W. W. and
N. varying alfo in its force; and the fhip carrying
fail accordingly.
I
ON the 10th in the lat. of 55 and 18° eaſt of
Valparaifo, they were furprized with a hard gale of
wind at S. and S. E; which obliged them to run
under their courfes. The force of the wind indeed
was not fo great as in the two gales beforemen-
tioned;
CH. VI.
349
SOUTH AMERICA.
>
tioned; but was much more troubleſome, being at-
tended with very thick fnow, and the cold intenfe.
The wind abating fhifted to the S.W.W. and N. W.
whilſt the ſhip paffing eaft of Staten land, on the
26th was in the lat. of 34° and long. 32 and 30′.
Here they fell in with winds at E. and S. E. which
indeed are the brifas or general winds.
;
THE flow progrefs of the voyage, and the heavi-
nefs of the frigate, which even in the moſt favou-
rable weather, never went above ſeven miles an hour,
gave room to apprehend, that it would be impoffi-
ble to reach the coaft of Spain, without putting in
to fome harbour for a freſh ſupply of provifions
the captain therefore reprefented to the fupercargo,
that no place could be more proper for fuch a pur-
poſe than Monte-Video, being a Spanish port; and
that if they paffed it, they fhould be obliged to make
ufe of one belonging to fome foreign power. But he,
conformably to the precife order of the regiſter againſt
putting into any harbour, unleſs on the coaft of Spain,
could not be prevailed upon to comply with the cap-
tain's propofal and accordingly the courfe was pur-
fued without alteration.
THE winds continued at S. E. E. fometimes at
S. and S. W. with heavy rains, thunder and light-
ning, till the frigate came into 23° of lat. and
longitude.
39 of
ŎN the 12th of May, at one in the morning, they
diſcovered a finall frigate to leeward; and on the 19th
being in 10° 30' S. latitude and 39 eaſt longitude,
faw three large fhips: but both fides continued their
reſpective courſe, without making any motion to
avoid or approach each other.
On the 27th they croffed the line, 44° eaft of Val-
paraifo, or 30° 30′ W. of Paris.
As theſe parts a-
bound in ſharks, they caught feveral, and one of them,
after opening it and taking out its intrails, hearts and
lùngs, they threw it again into the water; and it
being
350
A VOYAGE TO BOOK III.
being calm they faw it fwim near the frigate above
a quarter of an hour, till floating out of fight they
could not ſee the death of the creature. The
heart alfo of this and many others on which the fame
experiment was tried, was obſerved to have a mo-
tion on board the fhip for above a quarter of an
hour.
On the first of June, the frigate was in 4° 30′ N.
lat. the wind N. E. and S. E; and fometimes at
S. and S. W. with heavy rains; but now the provi-
fions, and particularly water growing ſhort, the cap-
tain, with the approbation of his officers and paffen-
gers, determined to put in at Martinico, and accord-
ingly the courſe was directed thither.
-
ON the 11th in the morning, being in the lati-
tude of 9° 30′, and 39º eaſt of Valparaifo, they had
fight of three large fhips which continued their courfe
without ſtanding for the frigate; and as their courſes
were directly oppofite, they foon loft fight of each
other.
On the 21ft at night, they had a fhort fquall ra-
ther of rain than wind, but the night being dark,
they faw at the top gallant-maft head, the meteor
called by the failors San Telmo, which lafted fix
hours. Some imagine this meteor to be a fign of
fair weather; but this opinion is as little to be relied on
as many others adopted without reflection, and juftly
called vulgar errors: it is only a natural phænomenon,
more particularly feen in nitrous and damp places
of the earth, in church yards and the like, and on
the fea it proceeds from the fame caufe; and tho'
it moſt commonly makes its appearance in ftormy
weather, the agitation of the waves fending forth a
greater quantity of nitrous particles, and being more
copiouſly carried up to a greater height, by the
force of the winds, the luminous matter fettles at the
extremity of the mafts or yards by a fmall part of it,
whilft the remainder has the appearance of a flame
in
CH. VI.
35
SOUTH AMERICA:
in the air yet it is not very uncommon to fee this
meteor in fair eaſy weather: and this was the cafe
here, it being quite calm; and in the Delivrance on
the 9th of Auguſt, at half an hour after one in the
morning, and in 28°40' S. lat. we ſaw one of theſe kinds
of lights, and on the fame part of the maſt; but ours
only lafted an hour, the wind at that time was but
faint; and this alfo had been preceeded by hard vio-
lent ſhowers attended with fome wind; and the atmo-
ſphere every where covered with a thick cloud. In
both inftances no tempeft happened before or foon
after; confequently they concurred to confute and
explode the falſe notions of failors, who are poffeffed
with a belief of certain confequences being prefaged
by theſe lights, according to their fituation, the
part of the fea and the time; and may likewife un-
deceive thofe, who too eafily fwimming with the
ftream of vulgar opinions, are fond of turning the
fortuitous effects and products of nature into ominous
myfteries.
ON the 15th, in the long. of 13° 0' they faw
great numbers of birds, which in their opinion indi-
cated that land was not far off, and accordingly lay
to all that night, and the following: but fearing that
fome English privateers might be cruizing to wind-
ward of Martinico, in order to avoid them the Lys
fteered for the iſland of Tobago, intending to go di-
rectly from thence to Martinico. On the 28th the
colour of the water become totally changed, fo as to
reſemble that of a turbid river; which they attri-
buted to the iffue of the Oronoco, tho' the mouth
of that river is betwixt fixty and feventy leagues
diftant; lying to in the night they founded and found
fixty fathom water, and a muddy bottom.
ON the 29th, at half an hour after feven in the
morning, they made the iſland of Tobago lying
weftward: and at noon ſaw the little iſland of San Gil,
diftant about two leagues from the N. E. from the
former:
352
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE TO
3
1
A
former: it bore S. three leagues and a half or four
leagues off and the latitude obferved at the fame
hour, was 11° 36'. According to the obfervations
of longitude taken at Valparaifo and Martinico, de-
ducting from them that of the iſland of Tobago,
the error in Don George Juan's eftimate was only
thirty five leagues, which may rather be termed
an inaccuracy, being abundantly fufficient for, or
at leaft, it was of a fufficient juftneſs in a voyage
of fuch a length; and from it I conclude that they
met with no currents about Cape Horn; tho' not
above a month before, when the Delivrance failed
round the cape, we found them very ftrong; and
conſequently they muft foon after ceafe. The fame
change was obfervable in the weather, and this
partly occafioned that of the currents, for tho' the
wind was at S. E. during that part of our voyage,
yet it was not conftantly there, nor had we any of
thofe hard gales which the Lys met with an evi-
dent proof that thofe winds already prevail'd there ;
and thus check'd the courſe of the waters, keeping
them in their eaſtern fituation.
FROM the iſland of Tobago, they continued their
courſe to Martinico, and in order to this fteered all
the night of the 20th betwixt the iſland of Barbadoes
and St. Vincent. On the 30th, when they imagined
themſelves betwixt thoſe iſlands, having fteered N. 4
northerly, they had no fight of any land. On the
ift of July they were in 14° 30' lat. and by efti-
mate a degree W. of Tobago: and thus the fri-
gate fhould have been not far from the iſland and
to windward of Martinico; but they ftill were out
of fight of all land. So great a difference in the fhort
time of two days fail was conjectured to proceed
from currents; but. the 'greateſt perplexity was to
determine whether they fet to the eaft or weft. This
doubt, however, was removed by confidering that it
was impoffible they could have paffed thro' the knot
•*
of
CH. VI SOUTH AMERICA. 353
I
F
of iſlands, from Granada to Martinico, without fee-
ing at leaſt one of them, even if it had been in the
night time, as befides their magnitude, the great
concern they were under of meeting the enemy,
cauſed them to keep a very careful look-out. It
was therefore concluded that the frigate could not
be to the weft of Martinico, but that the currents
had drove her to the eastward. Accordingly they
fteered S. W. wefterly, in order to fall in with it;
and after failing thus thirty leagues without making
any land, other reflections arofe, tho' ftill with fome
apprehenſion that they were to the west of Marti-
nico; and now the courfe was altered to N. without
knowing the place where the fhip actually was, in
order to avoid the danger that if ſhe was on the
weft fide, by ſteering as the day before ſhe would fall
to leeward of the harbours of Puerto-Rico or St.
Domingo; and thus find it extreamly difficult to
reach any port. The wind was at E. N. E. and
keeping as clofe to it as poffible, on the fourth at
half an hour after three in the afternoon, they made
the middle part of the iſland of Puerto-Rico. This
was a tranſporting fight to all, as having before
their eyes a fecure and plentiful port: and having
happily eſcaped the dangers of the granadillas, a
knot of islands where the greateſt channel is but
three or four leagues broad, the currents having
very providentally carried the fhip thro' the midft
of them, clear of the rocks, which on both fides
have proved fatal to many veffels: and they had not
fo much as any fight of land. By don George Juan's
eftimate he found that they might when they ſteer'd
betwixt the iſlands of Barbadoes and St. Vincent, the
currents had carried them almoſt forty two leagues.
to the weft and tho' they all very well knew that
the courſe of the waters in that part of the neigh-
bourhood of Martinico fets weftward, they were at
at a loss to conceive how they had paffed betwixt
VOL. II.
A a
thofe
3.54
A VOYAGE TO Book III.
thofe islands without having fight of any one, they
lying ſo near one another, the night being clear, and
every one keeping a good look out.
ON the night of the 4th day, they fometimes lay
to, and fometimes made an eafy fail, in order to
get into the channel betwixt the islands of Puerto Rico
and St. Domingo, intending for Guarico, otherwife
called cape Francois. On the 5th at fix in the
morning, the S. W. point of the island of Puerto-
Rico bore N. at about four leagues diftance.: and
ſtanding towards it till within the diftance of only
two leagues, they could very plainly fee the bottom,
which was ftony; and on founding found feven fa-
thom water. On this they tack'd to the W. and con-
tinuing in this direction about two hours, they had
always the fame depth of feven fathom, but coming
into twenty they returned to their former courſe.
6 S
I
.
Ar eleven in the forenoon they diſcovered to. lee-
ward two large fhips: and apprehending they might
belong to the enemy, the friga e tack'd: on which
they alfo did the fame, and crowded fail. At noon
the latitude by obfervation, was 8° 7′. And the iſland
of Defecheo bore N. 1 wefterly, diftant five leagues.
The two privateers, for fuch it is believed they were,
lay becalmed and this enabled the Lys to keep at
the fame diftance as when the firſt diſcovered them;
and the wind freshning to the N. about fun fet, fhe ſtood
É. N. E. in order to get clofe to the fhore, and thus
avoid the two fuppofed privateers, determined however
to make a ftout refiftance, if they ſhould be obliged to
come to that extremity. Afterwards the wind ſhifted to
F.N.E. and the privateers continuing S. W. the lays
fteered northward and weathered the iſland of Defecheo
about two leagues. The wind afterwards freſhen'd,
and at eleven at night the Lys fpread all the canvas
poffible, fteering N. W. and by the 6th in the morning,
had neither fight of the land nor the privateers.
ON the 7th at fix in the morning they made old.
cape
ร
CH. VI. SOUTH AMERÍCA:
355
cape Francois five leagues diftance; they kept in with
the coaft, and at noon by obfervation found the lați-
tude 19° 55′ from which they concluded that of the
cape to be about 19° 40', and tho' the land which pro-
jects into the fea be low, the inland parts appear very
mountainous.
On the 8th at fix in the morning, cape la Grange
bore S. diſtant five leagues; and by noon the frigate
being within three leagues of cape François harbour,
lay to with a ſignal for a pilot, who being come a-
board, carried the Lys into the harbour, where fhe
anchor'd at two in the afternoon, in eight fathom
water and a muddy bottom; about a quarter of a
league diftant from the town.
VARIATIONS of the needle obferved during the whole
courſe of the voyage, the longitude being taken from
the meridian of Valparaifo.
Variations.
Latitude.
Longitude
D. M. D.
M.
D. M.
48
45 South 10
30 Weft
57
15
9 30 Eaſt
14 30 E.
24 30
49
30
23 39
19.
40
2:7 30
Ì 4:
3:8
15
29
12
30
37 15
30
12
36
15
30
45
II
а
35
31
40
10
30
33.
25
33
270
36
310
30
9
O
15
4.
22 15
38 45
2
о
15 30
37
30.
7 30
4!
O
Ι
15
43
15.
2
15 W
44
3
30
9
30 N.
38, 30
I. 30
II
15
28
I
II
15
14
O
4
o E.
In Cape Francois or Guarico 5
A & 2
15
THE
356
A VOYAGE TO BOOK III
THE frigate arrived at the harbour of Guarico in
the moſt favourable time, five men of war being then
át Leogan, another harbour in that ifland belonging
to the French, and expected there in order to convoy
a fleet of merchantmen to Europe.
GUARICO lies on the N. W. fide of the iſland of
Saint Domingo in 19 deg.. 45 min. 48 fec. N. lat.
and 73 deg. o min. 45 fec. W. of the meridian of
Paris, according to the obfervation of Don George
Juan taken on the fpot: the town is about one third of
a league in length, and contains between thirteen and
fifteen hundred inhabitants, who are a mixture of
Europeans, white creols, negroes, mulattoes and
cafts; but the laft the moſt numerous. It is but a few
years fince that all the houſes in the town were of
wood; but the greateft part of them having been
confumed by the unextinguishable rapidity of a fire,
the greateſt part of them have fince been built of
ftone. They all have only a ground floor, except
here and there one with a ftory. Befides the parifh
church, which adds an ornament to the fquare where
it ftands, here is a college of Jefuits, who have the
care of the ſpiritual concerns of the inhabitants, and
diſcharge it with exemplary affection and fedulity.
Indeed at the firft fettlement of the French here,
the prieſts were capuchins; but the latter being ei-
ther unable to bear the climate, or not bleffed with
a fufficient ſtock of patience to reconcile themfelves
to it, forfook the churches, on which the Jefuits
took charge of them. Here is alfo a nunnery of
Urfelines recently founded, and a convent of religi-
ous of San Juan de Dios. About three quarters of a
league from the town is an hofpital, remarkably fpaci-
ous and beautiful, and which receives all patients who
apply for admittance. The parish church, though a
handſome building, has not yet recovered the dama-
ges it fuftain'd at the fire. The college of Jefuits
is a moft elegant ftructure in every refpect; and
the'
CH. VI.
357
SOUTH AMERICA.
*4
tho not large, is fufficient for the conveniency of
the fathers generally refiding in it, which never ex-
ceed fix. The nunnery is of greater extent, but by the
king's order that the increafe, of the town may not be
obftructed, no young women natives of the country are
allow'd to take the veil, fo that it can only be confi-
dered as a place of genteel and regular education, till
they are of age to enter on another ftate..
DI
THE town lies open without any other defence.
than a ſingle rampart, two batteries on the fea-fide,
and a little fort on the point of Puolet for defend-
ing the entrance of the harbour, at about two
thirds of a league from the town. The regular gar-
rifon both for it and the place itfelf confifts partly of
French and partly Switzers, befides a numerous and
complete body of militia formed of all the inhabi-
tants capable of bearing arms, who are difciplined,
and on the fame footing as the regulars; jointly
with whom, the better to fit them for fervice on any
emergency, they mount guard and perform all other
military duties. No country can be better cultivated
than the neighbourhood of cape Francois. There
is not a spot of ground capable of bearing any thing,
but is fown with the moft proper fpecies of grain.
And by theſe farms or habitations, as they are ge-
nerally called, where the fervile work is all done by
negroes, the people fubfift in comfort and even in
affluence; being enabled to fend vaft returns to
France for the European commodities brought hi-
ther. The grounds belonging to thefe habitations
are laid out in plantations of fugar, indigo, tobacco,
and coffee, the joint produce of which is fo large
that 30,000 tons are annually exported to France;
and this vast quantity only from the territories of
cape Francois; that it may be conceived how im-
menfe the produce wou'd be, were all the country
which the French poffefs in this inland cultivated..
The contrast of this with the little advantage drawn
from the remaining part of it, which tho' even
A a 3
more
35.8
A VOYAGE TO BOOK III.
་ས་
more fertile, cannot maintain itſelf, a fupply being
every year fent for the fubfiftence of the garrifon
and ecclefiafticks, ftrongly fhews the advantages ac-
cruing to a country from ſkill and induſtry.
THE large fleet of fhips which frequent the ports
of this colony, are fo plentifully fupplied with Euro-
pean products and manufactures, that at all times, and
efpecially in time of peace, they enjoy a plenty of
every thing; excellent bread made of wheat brought
from France, wines, diftilled liquors and fruits of
all kinds. The only article of provifions the inhabi-
tants are obliged to procure from the Spaniards is
meat, in return for which they fupply them with
linen, and other European goods. This commerce
is indeed prohibited: but the want being reciprocal,
it is carried on with as little fecrefy and difguife, as
if it had the fanction of the laws. For as no regiſter
hip goes from Spain to St. Domingo, the inland,
for want of a due culture of the lands, being incapa-
ble of making any returns, the colony muft necef-
farily periſh, unleſs fupplied with goods from the neigh-
bouring plantations.
THERE cannot be a more convincing proof of
the vaft commerce carried on by France thro' the
channel of this colony, than the number cf fhips
which come annually to its different ports: no lefs
than one hundred and fixty fmall and great, that is,
from one hundred and fifty to four or five hundred
tons, come to Guarico; and this may ferye to give
fome idea of thofe deftined to Leogane and Petit
Guave, and others of lefs note: all theſe fhips come
loaded with goods and provifions, and every one re-
turns with at least 30 or 40000 dollars, in filver or
gold. Thofe only which go from Guarico, exclu-
five of the cargo which confifts of the products of
the colony, carry to France every year half a mil-
lion of dollars; and the fame computation, which
is not in the leaft improbable, being made for each
of
CH. VI.
359
SOUTH AMERICA.
of the other two chief ports, and as much for all the
other ſmaller ports, the total will be two millions of
dollars per annum: and this was precifely the fum
carried in the fleet which the Lys had the good for-
tune to join with in her return.
It is eafily conceived that not one fourth part
of the cargo of fo many fhips can be confumed in
this colony and its dependencies; and confequently
it muſt find a vent among the Spaniſh fettlements,
as the Havanna, Caraca's, Santa Martha, Carthagena,
Terra Firina, Nicaragua and Honduras. Accord-
ingly Spaniſh barks put into the little bays and
creeks near Guarico, and carry on this clandeftine
commerce, when by regifter they are authorized to
go to the ports permitted.
THE climate of Guarico is extreamly hot, which
equally proceeds from the country being every where
mountainous, and from its proximity to the line;
fo that perfons who come there only occafionally, on
the leaft excefs in diet or other circumftances, fel-
dom eſcape being attacked by diftempers, which in
three or four days carry them off; particularly great
numbers of the fhips crews are ſwept away after
extreme pains, the continual labour theſe unhappy
people are obliged to go through in unloading and
loading, taking in water and other neceffary fervi-
ces of the fhip, expofing them to all the violence
of fuch diftempers. The malignant fevers and dy-
fenteries are of the fame kind as thoſe fo fatal at
Porto-bello and a fufficient account being given of
the temperature, the inconveniences accompanying
it, and of the products of countries fimilar to this,
I may here be excufed from dwelling any farther on
thoſe ſubjects.
THE Cuftoms, genius and manners of the people
here are no lefs different from the European French,
than thoſe of the Spanish Creoles in this part of
America are from the real Spaniards. Here are
A a 4
fome
360
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE, TO
fome perfons of very great fortune, and all acquired
from the cultivation and improvement of their lands:
and all live in cafe and happiness, labouring under
very few inconveniences either natural or political;
and this is not the leaft caufe of its daily increaſe:
befides, the people fettled here are of themſelves labo-
rious, frugal, inventive, and continually exerting
themſelves in making new improvements; a turn of
mind pregnant with fo many advantages, that I wifh
it could raiſe a fuitable imitation in the Spaniards,
that by labour and induftry they might attain that
proſperity, they fee their neighbours the French have
done.
THE harbour, tho' open to the eaſt and north
winds, is very fecure, being partly inclofed by a ridge
of rocks which fence it against the impetuofity of the
fea. The chief inconveniency is, that when the breeze
blows ftrong, it is extreamly difficult and dangerous
for boats to land; for thofe winds efpecially at E. N. E.
fweep along the whole harbour.
Ar the end of the month of Auguft, the French
fquadron under Mr. Defturbier de l'Etanduere, which
had been expected from Leogane, came into the
harbour of Cape Francois; it confifted of the follow-
ing five ſhips.
Le Jufte, the commodore of
L'Alcide
L'Ardent
Le Caribou
La Mutine
70 guns
70
60
50
26
SEVERAL merchant fhips bound for Europe, took
the advantage of failing with this eonvoy; and on
the 6th of September, the whole fleet put to fea to
the number of fifty three fail, including the men
of war, frigates, brigantines, and bilanders.
fun-fet Picolet-point bore S. 59 W. diftance four
leagues and a half. The 7th they fteered for Cay-
cos, and not getting fight of thefe iflands during
At
the
:
1
CH. VI.
361
SOUTH AMERICA.
+
1
क
the day, it was thought adviſeable to lay to all
night: but on the 8th at eight in the morning they
faw the Cayco-grande, an ifland of fand three leagues
in length, N. and S. but appears the more confpi-
cuous from a few bufhes growing on it. At noon!
its fouth point bore $. E. foutherly diftant two
leagues and a half. By the latitude they obſerved,
that of the iſland was fet down at 21° 35′ and by
the courſe its longitude determined to be the fame
with that of cape Francois, unleſs the current of the
waters, which was perceived to ſet to the northward,
may be ſuppoſed to have occafion'd fome ſmall
error.
THE frequent danger which the merchant fhips
were in of running foul of each other, and the re-
tardment occafioned by fuch confufion, had induced
them to divide themſelves, fome going to windward
and others to leeward of the men of war.
But this
was a conveniency which they were not long per-
mitted to enjoy, a privateer of the enemy appearing
in fight to windward of the fleet and on this the
commodore ordered his fquadron to form into a line
and the merchant ships to run to leeward of him,
and keep at a proper diftance. The currents towards
the north continued with greater force on the 10th,
11th, and 12th; and during theſe days, the winds
fhifted from E. S. E. to N.
ON the 13th, the fleet coming into lat. 27° 30'
the force of the currents, which had hitherto been
obſerved, now entirely decreaſed; the privateer did
not fail to come in fight of the fleet every morning;
and towards night of drawing nearer, with a view
of carrying off a prize: but in the day time fhe kept
out of fight. On the 15th in the morning fhe was
ſeen fo near, that the commodore made a fignal for
two ſhips to chace. But being a fhip very fit for
the fervice fhe was employed in, the men of war foon
loft fight of her. The winds continued at E. and
S. E.
362
Book III.
A AVG
VOYAGE TO
S. E. but no more currents were perceivable,
On the 17th, in 31° of lat. and 3° 14′ E. of the
meridian of Cape Francois, the wind fhifted to N.
and N. N. E. with freſh gales and fhowers; the fleet
ftood to the east; but the fea running high, they
drove to 28° 44′ lat. as was obſerved on the 23d,
and 8° 40′ long. Here the winds came about to
the N. W. and they began to fteer N.E. one quarter
northerly.
On the 25th, the wind veered to the S. E. and S.
with fair weather; and freshning veered to the S. S.
W. S.W. and W. the courfe of the fleet was N. E.
one quarter E. and E. N E. till the 27th of October,
when they made Cape Prior on the coaft of Gallicia;
and at five in the evening Cape Ortegal, bearing S.S. E.
diſtance 7 leagues.
DON GEORGE JUAN, by his reckoning, concluded
the difference of longitude betwixt Cape Francois and
Cape Prior to be 59° 30' which is however confide-
rably different from the real longitude: but this I at-
tribute to the ſtrong tendency of the currents eastward
at the mouth of the Caycos channel.
WHEN the weather permitted, he continued the
obfervations of the variation of the needle; and tak-
ing his meridian from the point of departure, which
was Cape Francois, they proved as follows:
Longitude from
Cape Francois.
D. M.
2 00
Variations,
D. M.
I 30 E.
N. Latitude.
D. M.
30 00
29 00
29
33 00
00
36 22
11 40
18.30
1 30 W.
7 00
40 00
26 00
6 40
9 15
I 00
3
II 00
ON making Cape Ortegal, the courſe was altered
to N. N. E. and on the gift, at feven in the morning.
the
1
CH. VI.
363
SOUTH AMERICA.
the fquadron had again fight of land, which proved
that of Breft bay; and at three in the afternoon, the
whole fleet came to an anchor in that harbour.
Don George Juan, being thus landed in France,
embraced with pleaſure this opportunity of paying his
refpects to fo illuftrious a body as the royal academy
of ſciences; at the fame time communicating feveral
particulars relating to our operations in Peru; toge-
ther with ſome obfervations concerning the aberration
of light, and its effect on the fixed ftars, according
to his own accurate obfervations in the province of
Quito. And that celebrated body were pleaſed to
exprefs their efteem of his application and knowledge,
by admitting him a correfponding member. Having
thus honourably terminated all his bufinefs at Paris,
he fet out for Madrid, in order to lay before the
miniſtry the event and fuccefs of his commiffion;
and at the fame time follicited that a report of it
might be made to his majefty.
CHA P. VII.
Account of the harbour and town of LOUISBOURG;
and the taking of it by the ENGLISH; together
with ſome particulars relating to the French
fishery, and the trade carried on there.
L
Ouiſbourg is in the latitude of 45° 50′ N. lat.
and 61° W. of the meridian of Paris. It
ftands in the S. E. part of l'Ifle Royale, and E. of
Cape Breton. The town is of a middling fize, the
houfes of wood on a foundation of ſtone to the
height of two yards or two yards and a half from
the ground. In fome houfes the whole ground floor
is of ftone, and the ftories of wood. It is walled,
and extreamly well fortified with all the moder n
works:
364 A VOYAGE TO BOOK III.
3
t
[
works it is only in one place about 100 toifes in
length, where the wall is difcontinued, as indeed
unneceffary, this being filled up by the fea, and
fufficiently, defended by a pallifade. Here the wa-
ter forms a kind of a large lake; but where the
ſmalleſt barks cannot come, and the large fhips
must keep at a confiderable diſtance, by reaſon of
rocks and fhoals; befides there are two collateral
baftions, which flank this paffage to a very great
advantage. Within the fort, and in the center of
one of its chief baftions, is a ftrong building with a
moat on the fide towards the town; and this is called
the citadel, though it has neither artillery, nor is of
a ftructure for receiving any; the entrance to it is in-
deed over a draw bridge, on one fide of which is a
corps de garde, and advanced centinels on the other.
Within this building is the apartment for the gover-
nor, the barracks for the garriſon, an arfenal, and
under the platform of the redoubt, a magazine,
always well furniſhed with military ftores. The pariſh
church, or rather chapel which ferved as fuch, alfo
ſtood within this citadel, and without it was another
belonging to the hofpital of St. Jean de Dieu, which
is an elegant and ſpacious ftructure all of ſtone, though
founded long fince.
THE harbour is large and fafe; but the entrance
very narrow, being confined by an ifland called Goat
iſland, on which ſtands a pretty large fort; and on
the oppofite fide is a very high tower which ferves as
a light houſe. The coaft on this fide within forms a
point, which advances towards the fhore till it faces
the mouth of the harbour. Here alfo is a large fortì-
fication called the royal battery, being that which de-
fends the entrance of the harbour, and the fort on that
fide. From this fort the coaft winds inward, and
forms a large bay, which ferves as an excellent ca-
reening place for veffels of any burden, having a
good depth of water, and being in a great meaſure
land-
CH.VII.! SOUTH AMERICA. 365
land-lock'd: and as fuch the country veffels lay up
here in winter. In fummer they all come to an an-
chor before the town at about a quarter of a league
diſtance; though the ſmaller veffels may come within
a cable's length of the fhore, where they lie quiet from
all winds except the caft, which blows right into the
harbour's mouth, and caufes fome agitation; but
without any danger to the fhips at anchor in it.
BETWIXT the royal battery point and that of the
lighthouſe, but nearer to the former, lies a fand al-
ways above water; but every where elfe the harbour
is clear, fo that ſhips may tack with the greateſt ſafety
in going out or coming in when the wind is not
fair. In winter, however, this harbour is totally im-
practicable, being entirely frozen fo as to be walked
over; that ſeaſon begins here at the end of Novem-
ber, and lafts till May or June; ſometimes the frofts
fets in fooner, and are more intenſe, as in the year
1745; when, by the middle of October, a great part
of the harbour was already frozen.
THE inhabitants of Louifbourg, which at that time
was the only town in the iſland, confifted of French
families, fome Europeans and others Creoles, of the
place itſelf, and from Placentia in the iſland of New-
foundland, from whence they removed hither on the
ceding of that ifland to the crown of Great Britain.
Their principal if not only trade is the cod-fiſhery,
from which alfo large profits accrued to them, not
only on account of the abundance of this fifh, but.
that the neighbouring fea affords the beft of any
about Newfoundland. The wealth of the inhabitants.
confifted in their ftorehouſes, fome of which were
within the fort, and others fcattered along the fhore,
and in their number of, fiſhing barks; and of theſe
more than one inhabitant maintained forty or fifty,
which daily went on this fifhery, carrying three or
four men each, who received a fettled falary, but
were at the fame time obliged to deliver a certain
number
366
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK III.
number of ftandard fish; fo that the cod ftorehoufes
never failed of being filled against the time the fhips
reſorted hither from moft of the ports of France,
laden with provifions and other goods, with which
the inhabitants provided themſelves in exchange for
this fifh; or configned it to be föld' in France on-
their own account; likewife veffels from the French
colonies of St. Domingo and Martinico, brought
fugar, tobacco, coffee, rum, &c. and returned load-
ed with cod; and any furplus, after Louifbourg
was fupplied found a vent in Canada, where the return
was made in beavers fkins and other kinds of fine furs.
Thus Louisbourg, with no other fund'than the fishery,
carried on a continual and large commerce both with
Europe-and America. Louifbourg was not, however,
the only port where the French veffels loaded with
cod, greater numbers going, themſelves to fiſh at
Newfoundland, off the coaft of Petit Norde, and on
the bank, as will be more particularly feen in the fe
quel. Befides the inhabitants. of Louifbourg, great
numbers of French were fettled along the coaft of the
neighbouring iflands, particularly that of St. John,
where befides their dwellings, they had ftorehoufes
and all the appurtenances of a fillery; which being.
the moſt profitable occupation, and the gain lefs un-
certain, very few applied themfelves to the cultivation
of the country indeed, its being in winter covered
with fnow, fometimes to the depth of three or four
feet, and even not diffolved till fummer was pretty
far advanced, hufbandry feemed to want a requifite
time for the products to attain their proper maturity.
Nor could any confiderable graziery be followed here,
being obliged for the fupport of the few cattle they
had, to lay up a winter's ſtock of hay, and to keep",
them houſed all that feafon, till the fummer's heat had
removed the fnow from the paſtures, the richness of
which, in a great meaſure, compenfated for this.
dreary ſeaſon; and the quick growth of the corn and
L
other
CH. VIE
367
SOUTH AMERICA.
other products for the length and feverity of the
winter.
In this and the adjacent iſlands were a confiderable
number of inhabitants, born in the country, or on the
main land: and what is remarkable, theſe Indians not
only refemble thofe of Peru in complexion and afpect;
there is alfo a confiderable affinity in their manners and
cuftoms; the only visible difference is in ftature, and
this advantage lies vifibly on the fide of the inhabi-
tants of theſe northern climates.
THESE natives, whom the French term favages,
were not abſolutely fubjects of the king of France, nor
entirely independent of him. They acknowledged
him lord of the country, but without any alteration
in their way of living; or fubmitting themfelves to
his laws; and fo far were they from paying any tri-
bute, that they received annually from France a quan-
tity of apparel, gun-powder, and mufkets, brandy,
and feveral kinds of tools, in order to keep them
quiet and attached to the French intereft: and this-
has alſo been the politick practice of that crown with
regard to the favages of Canada. For the fame end
prieſts were fent among them to inttruct them in
the chriftian religion, and performing divine fervice
and all the other offices of the church, as baptiſm,
burial, &c. And as the end to be anſwered was of
the higheſt importance to the French commerce, the
perfons choſen for theſe religious expeditions were
men of parts, elocution, graceful carriage, and irre
proachable lives: and accordingly they behaved with
that prudence, condefcention, and gentleness towards
the Indians under their care, that befides the univer-
fal veneration paid to their perfons, their converts
looked upon them as their fathers; and, with all
the tenderneſs of filial affection, fhared with them
what they caught in hunting, and the produce of
their fields.
L'Ifle Royale had only one of theſe miffionaries who
was
368
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK III.
was the Abbe Mallard; one affiduous perfon being
fufficient for the few Indians which inhabit this and
the adjacent iſlands.
A
THESE Indians, like thofe of Canada, live in mi-
grating companies; and though chriftians, and already
formed into villages, ftay but a small time in
one place: accordingly they run up their dwellings
very flightly, knowing that they foon fhall leave
them. Their firſt buſineſs in a new place where they
intend to fettle fome time, is to build a chapel and a
dwelling for the prieſt; afterwards every one builds
himſelf a hut, and here they remain two, three, four,
fix months, or more, according to the plenty of
game in the neighbourhood; for this being their
only fubfiftence, whenever it begins to grow fcarce,
they remove, and the affectionate prieſt follows
them wherever they go. Many of them come vo-
Juntarily to the French fettlements, hiring them-
felves for huſbandry or any other laborious work, and
at the expiration of the time agreed on, return to their
countrymen. Others repair to the French fettlements
in order to diſpoſe of the fkins of the beaſts they have
killed, and furniſh themſelves with the neceffaries they
want. Thus the French live in an entire fociality and
repofe with them, little apprehenfive of any infurrec-
tion, or their inclination to any other government, as
their own takes care to recommend itſelf to them by the
moſt ingratiating meaſures; and the Indians as little.
harbour any fufpicions of a defign in the French to
erect a tyranny over them, or of making any infringe-
ments on that liberty of which they are fo fond, or on
that indolence to which they are fo remarkably addicted,
that want alone can roufe them to action.
WHEN the favages have built their huts, their firſt
buſineſs is to ſcour the country, and thus they continue
hunting three or four days fucceffively, or till they
judge they have a fufficiency to ferve them fome time;
when they return to their huts, where they never fail
of
t
CH. VII.
369
SOUTH AMERICA.
of carrying to the prieft the full amount of his quota.
The ſkins of quadrupeds they referve for fale, having
firſt made the due offering to the prieſt, who, on the
produce of them, fupplies his own neceffities, and like-
wife furniſhes the chapel; but its ornaments, like the
vettments of the prieſt, are neither remarkable for their
number or fplendor; their ambulatory life, among
other circumftances, fcarce admitting of either.
BESIDES Louifbourg, the only fortified harbour of
this iſland, it has other places of good anchorage,
on the eaſtern coaft, which terminates at Cape Nord;
and on that running fouthward fron E. to W. Of
theſe the beſt for fecurity and largeneſs are St. Anne's
bay, with a narrow entrance like that of Louif-
bourg, and Cabaru bay: but theſe are all uninhabited,
the French having confined their views to the forti-
fying of Louiſbourg; as by means of it they hoped to
maintain themſelves in the poffeffion of the whole inland;
which being fo very woody, that on whatever part the
enemy fhould make a defcent, there was no acceſs to
it by land; and experience has demonftrated that they
thought very juſtly, it being impoffible, without tak
ing the fort, to become mafters of the iſland; nor had
this fort ever been taken, if fuccoured in due time ;
or if, from the opinion of its being impregnable, pro-
per precautions had not been omitted.
Most of the trees, of which the thick forests of this
ifland confift, are pines, though not of the fame nature
with thofe of Europe. They are of two kinds: one very
fit for boards and fuch like uſes; the other, being ſhort
and knotty, is uſed for fuel or making fhort rafters ;
and this is called pruche. A decoction of the fprigs,
being mixed with a little moloffes, and fermented,
makes the ale generally drank at table; the water it-
felf, being of fo light and penetrating a nature, that
the drinking of it always cauſes dyfenteries: but thus
corrected and turned into pruche or fpruf beer, is
found very wholeſome, and of no difagreeable taſte.
VOL. II.
B b
THYS
1
370
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE TO
THUS the French of thefe parts live in the greateſt
tranquillity and comfort; and their happineſs might
have ſtill continued had they themfelves not occafioned
the interruption of it. For though the two crowns of
France and England were at war, and fome of the fub-
ftantial inhabitants here, as well as the Engliſh at Bof-
ton, had fitted out privateers, the hoftilities were never
carried beyond the act of privateering, without any
thoughts at that time of higher enterprizes. It muſt
be obferved, that before the war betwixt the two
powers, at the beginning of this century, France
was poffeffed of that peninfula and the lands called
Acadia, weft of l'Ifle Royale: but by the treaty of
peace, in which France ceded to the crown of Eng-
land, Placentia the capital of Newfoundland, and the
whole iſland, this peninfula was alfo included, a fug-
geftion which the court of England owed to its inhabi-
tants, who being generally proteftants, reafonably pro-
miſed themſelves more freedom under a fovereign of their
own religion. Many parts of that peninfula belonged
to the inhabitants of Louifbourg, who became deprived
of them by this treaty and among them one, con-
cerning which there feems to have been a difpute, whe-
ther it was to be included in Acadia or not. But the
inhabitants ftrongly infifting on the affirmative, and
the king of England fupporting their plea, France
was obliged to give up the point, and confent to its
being reckoned a part of the peninfula. The owner of
this parcel of land, however, who was one of the moſt
confiderable inhabitants of Louifbourg, defirous of
recovering fo valuable a part of his poffeffions, and
availing himſelf of the prefent war, laid before the mi-
niftry of France his fcheme for the conqueft of it,
without any charge to the king, with the allowance
only of a body of troops from the garrifon; fetting
forth the great advantage which would refult from it
to the French intereft in thefe parts. The miniſtry
entered into his views; a commiffion was fent him for
the
CH. VII.
371
SOUTH AMERICA.
the expedition, accompanied with an order for furnish-
ing him with the number of regulars he had required.
THE Country in queftion little apprehending any
invafion, was totally unprovided with the means of
defence, ſo that after little or no refiftance, it was ta-
ken poffeffion of by the former owner, who, with the
body of regulars and adventurers that had attended
him, returned in triumph to Louifbourg. In the
mean time, the clamours not only of the fufferers,
who had been the immediate object of this act of vio-
lence, but of all the inhabitants of Acadia, reached the
ears of the governor and other powerful perfons of
Bolton, who, alarmed at the recent example, began
to look upon their own welfare as in danger: accord-
ingly they held confultations on the means of prevent-
ing further mifchief, and taking fatisfaction for the
late infult: they with reafon apprehended, that the
French muft carry all before them in a country like
theirs, every way open, without fortreffes or troops;
and they imagined that the French, from the faci-
lity of its execution, had really formed fuch a de-
fign; and that the firft fuccefs fo easily obtained,
would naturally animate that ambitious nation to
greater enterprizes. This colony had ever looked
upon the neighbourhood of the French as dange-
rous; and in order to have them at a proper dif-
tance, the people of Bofton had made repeated fo-
licitations to the court of England, that Acadia
might be delivered up to that crown, in order to forin
a barrier betwixt the other dominions of the two powers.
THE reafon that the colony of New-England, and
its capital Boſton, is without any fortrefs or regular
troops, is owing to the apprehenfion of its inhabi-
tants, that they might be brought into fubjection to
the laws of England and acts of parliament, to the
prejudice of thofe liberties under which they have
rofe to fuch a height of profperity. Thus the whole
country lies open without any other defence than
Bb 2
the
372
BOOK II.
A VOYAGE TO
?
the great number of people it contains. The king
of England fends over a governor, but with fuch a
commiffion as is entirely compatible with its free
conftitution. This defenceless ftate of Bofton a-.
wakened in them a jealoufy of farther enterprizes
from the French; that in a confultation, at which
the governor and the chief perfons of the colony
affifted, it was refolved that New England could
not be fafe by land or fea, till the French were dif
poffefs'd of Louifbourg; but that in order to fuc-
ceed, the defign muft be conducted with fuch im-
penetrably fecrecy, that the firft notice of it at
Louisbourg muft be the arrival of the fleet before
it; and in Europe the account of its furrender:
that the former might be prevented from fending for
fuccours to Canada, and that a force might not be
fent from France fufficient either to fave or reco-
ver it. The governor of New-England at that time.
was Mr. Shirley, a gentleman of great abilities and
merit; and the commodore of the men of war on
that coaft, was Mr. Peter Warren, a perfon of the
like character, befides his naval accompliſhments,
and an ardent zeal for the glory of his nation;
and who in this affair had the additional incentive
of felf-intereft, being owner of lands and houfes to
a confiderable amount; that he was looked upon as
one of the moft opulent inhabitants of Bofton.
Theſe two officers, in conjunction with the chief in-
habitants, determined to undertake the fiege of
Louifbourg, the governor offering to concur in it
with a body of land-forces, provifions and other
neceffaries; whilft the commodore, who had figna-
liz'd his courage on feveral occafions, engaged with
his fquadron, tho' confifting only of three or four
large fhips and a fmall frigate, fo to block up the
harbour, that no fuccours fhould be thrown into it;
whilft the land forces befieged it in form. The
greateft difficulty was the want of regular troops,
and
CH. VII.
SOUTH AMERICA. 373
and experienced officers capable of conducting a
fiege; and the difcipline of the foldiery, that there
might be ſome probability of ſucceeding. This em•
barraffinent was removed by an expedient of Mr.
Shirley's, and to which chiefly was owing the hap-
py event of the expedition. There was a gentle-
man of the name of Pepperel, one of the largeſt
traders in Bofton, who had a general correfpondence
among the country people of the colony, both In-
dians and Meftizos. He placed an entire confidence
in them, and trufted them with whatever goods
they wanted; and they were no leſs punctual in
their payments at the time of their feveral harveſts.
Thefe acts of kindneſs, and the open courteſy with
which he always treated them, had endeared him
to fuch a degree, that they looked upon him as
their father; and fo fenfible are even the rudeft
minds of difinterefted beneficence and affability, that
they on all occafions expreffed an unreferved devo-
tion to him; and no doubt was made, but they
would readily facrifice themſelves for him at his
defire. On this confidence the governor of Boſton,
propoſed to Mr. Pepperel, that he fhould go gene-
ral of this expedition; as thus all the country people
would offer themſelves to go volunteers, and grudge
no,dangers or fatigues which they fhou'd undergo
in his prefence. Mr. Pepperel was not ignorant of
his intereft, and faw all the weight of the propo-
fal; but declined it, as being entirely deftitute of that
military knowledge required in much inferior poſts.
At length yielding to the inftances of the governor,
and the entreaties of his acquaintance, who feconded
the propofal, he accepted of the poft; and at once
from merchant became a warrior. This was no
fooner made public, than multitudes of the country
people flocked from all parts, defiring to be enlifted,
and impatient for the enterprize: rather from a zeal
Bb 3
to
374
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE TO
な
​to accompany their chief protector, than for any con-
cern about the conqueft of Louifbourg.
SUCH was the privacy of the enterprize, that even
in England nothing of it was known till the execu-
tion. The governor had fent notice of it to his fove-
reign, but it went no further, left an enterprize under-
taken with fo much fpirit, and of fuch importance,
fhould be rendered abortive.
Thus the new-raiſed troops with provifions and
military ſtores, but little fuitable to fuch an attempt,
embarked at Boſton; and, in company with com-
modore Warren's fquadron, failed for Louifbourg;
which received the firft notice of the defign from the
appearance of the armament.
I have already mentioned that France every year
fends a remittance to Louisbourg of
money and pro-
viſions for the payment and ſubſiſtence of the garriſon;
and for the repairs and improvement of the fortifica-
tions: at which the foldiers themfelves, when not on
guard, very gladly work as being a comfortable ad-
dition to their pay. But through covetoufneſs, one of
the general vices of mankind, thoſe who were com-
miffioned with the payment of the foldiers, and even
the very officers of the garrifon, befides wronging them
in what they earned by their work, curtailed them even
in their ſubſiſtence money. This was no recent evil;
and on the death of the governor, the foregoing win-
ter, the oppreffion of the rapacious paymafters and of-
ficers rofe to fuch an excefs, as twice to occafion a mu-
tiny in the garrifon, and for want of timely lenitives,
thefe refentments contributed not a little to the lofs of
the place.
THE garrifon of Louifbourg and all its forts,
confifted only of fix hundred French and Swifs re-
gulars, and eight hundred militia; formed of all the
inhabitants capable of bearing arms. The governor
of Canada, who was not ignorant of the diſcontented
ftate
CH. VII.
SOUTH AMERICA. 375.
}
ftate of the garrifon, and knowing that even with an
unanimous zeal, it was not' a fufficient number in
time of war for a place of fuch confequence, had,
without any knowledge of what was on the carpet,
offered to fend a reinforcement to Louifbourg. But
the commandant, either apprehending that there
would be no occafion for making uſe of thofe fuc-
cours, or that he judged the ufual force fufficient for
its defence, or for fome other fecret reaſon, thanked
the governor of Canada for his offer, and told him
that on any appearance of danger he would em-
brace it. It was not long after before he faw him-
felf furrounded by the enemy; and all the ways for
applying for fuccour blocked up. Thus he became
befieged in form, his forces unequal to the defence
of the place; and without any probability of re-
ceiving a reinforcement either from Canada or Eu-
rope. This was the firft, and not the leaft error to
which his difgrace for the lofs of Louiſbourg may be
imputed, as with the fuccours offered he would have
found himſelf at the head of a body of men more
than fufficient not only to defend himself; but to fally
out and drive before them the raw undiſciplin'd mul-
titude which were come againſt him.
THE defign of the English having been to fur-
priſe the place when unprovided, they puſhed the
enterprize with the greateft difpatch and vigour,
that they might prevent the arrival of the annual
fupply from France: and with this view it was no
later than the end of April or beginning of May,
when they appeared before the town, in hopes of the
double advantage, that inftead of its reaching the
French, the fhips that brought it would fall into
their hands, as it indeed happened. Another acci-
dent equally unfortunate with the former, was, that
a man of war and a frigate having been fitted out
at Breft for carrying fuccours to this place, and
loaded with all kinds of military ftores, and ready
Bb 4
to
376
A VOYAGE TO
BOOK III.
to put to fea within two or three days, the man of
war took fire, and was burnt to the water's edge.
Nor was there at that time any other fhip fit to
ſupply her place, except the Vigilante, juft on the
point of launching. The captain of the ſhip which
had been burnt, was the marquis de la Maifon Forte;
who alfo was appointed to command the Vigilante :
and get her ready with the utmoft expedition for the
fame voyage. This delay however gave an oppor-
tunity to the Engliſh of making themſelves maſters
of the entrance of the harbour, and landing the
troops for the fiege, tho' they did not venture to open
the trenches for battering in breach.
WHEN the Vigilante arrived near the coaft of this
ifland, the atmoſphere was filled with fuch a thick
fog, that to have attempted to approach fo near as
to have a fight of it, would have been dangerous:
accordingly the marquis flackened fail, and tack'd
till the weather fhou'd clear up, that he might make
the island without any danger. On the 30th of
May, he discovered near him a frigate of forty guns,
which he immediately knew to belong to the enemy;
and elevated with the hopes of fuch a capture, be-
gan to fire at the frigate, which, as had been con-
certed, feigned a flight; and, favoured by the fog,
drew the Vigilante, which eagerly gave her chace to
that part of the coaft where the other fhips of the
Engliſh ſquadron lay: fo that when the fog, which
hitherto intercepted the fight of diftant objects, be-
came difperfed, the Vigilante found herfelf in the
midft of Mr. Warren's fquadron. Then the frigate
which had decoyed her into the fnare, together with
two men of war, the one of fixty and the other of
fifty guns, began about half an hour after one in
the afternoon, to pour their fire into her, as a
fhip, whofe fafe arrival would have fruftrated their
enterprize. Another great difadvantage to the Vi-
gilante, befides this fuperiority was, her being fo
deep
1
C
CH. VII.
377
SOUTH AMERICA.
deep loaded with military ftores, that he could
make no uſe of her lower tier. But neither this
difparity, nor the fight of two other ſhips at a ſmall
diſtance could intimidate the French from making a
vigorous reſiſtance till nine o'clock at night, when
the ſhip being battered in every part, full of water,
and her rudder fhot away, they furrendered; left
their heroick courage might have been miſconſtrued
to have proceeded only from a favage defpair. To
this misfortune France may attribute the loſs of that
important place: for the ignorance of the befiegers,
whofe conduct fhewed them not to have a ſingle ray
of military knowledge, the vigorous refiftance of
the forts, which they now began more and more to
think impregnable, the fmall quantity of ammuni-
tion, and the proportion of the artillery to the de-
fign, together with the increafing diſguſt of theſe
new-levied rufticks, at the fatigues and dangers of
war, which had already lafted long beyond their ex-
pectations: thefe circumſtances, I fay, had fo dif-
couraged the New-England men, that they began to
repent of having left the repofe of their planta-
tions, for what fome now called a romantick ſcheme;
and the general inclination feemed to be for a re-
turn and this being known from fome of the En-
glifh as bore none of the loweſt commiffions, a
refolution was taken, that if they were not maſters
of the place in a fortnight at fartheft, the fiege
ſhould be raiſed. But the taking of the Vigilante,
diffuſed a new ſpirit thro' the troops: and feeing that
by this capture they had gained a confidereble rein-
forcement, and that the fort was deprived of the af
fiftance to long expected, their hopes of fuccefs re-
vived; and they pufhed the fiege with more vigour
than even at the commencement of it.
-
Ar the fame time the Engliſh laid fiege to the
fort, they alfo threatned the royal battery, having
a body of troops encamped on that fide, tho' with-
2
out
78
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE TO
out ever riſking an affault. This battery, happened
to be commanded by an officer of no competent ex-
perience, and very unfit for ſuch a poft; the garrifon
alfo was weak, and it was without any guns to-
wards the land, which was the very place facing
the enemy; and confequently the only one from
whence they could be annoyed. In this exigence
the commandant of the fort went over to view it
and give directions; but as he could not ſpare any
men, he left orders, that in caſe of the approach of
the enemy on that fide, they fhou'd remove thither
the guns which pointed feaward; and uſe them to
the beft advantage. But left the royal battery ſhould
fall into the hands of the enemy, who would cer-
tainly turn the cannon againſt the fort, he left inftruc-
tions with the commandant, that if he found it abfo-
lutely neceffary to capitulate, he ſhould with all his
men, paſs over to the fort, after nailing up the ar-
tillery, fo as to render it unferviceable to the enemy.
But the poltroon commandant of the battery availed
himſelf of this inftruction to haften his retreat: and,
without ſtaying till he had tried the fuccefs of his
cannon on the enemy, who continued quiet in their
camp; that very fame night embarked his men, and
made over to the fort in a hurry, on pretence that the
enemy had made an affault on the battery with a large
force. But the falfity of this plea was foon diſcovered,
the French flag flying for fome time after; an evident
fign that there was no perfon in the fort to lower it:
which could not have been the cafe had the Engliſh
made the pretended attack.
THE enemy obferving from their camp, that no
perfon appeared as ufual on the parapet of the royal
battery, concluded that the garrifon were employ'd on
fome fecret attempt, or on fome works within the
fort, and therefore did not make any approaches, till
queſtioning whether the French might not privately
have abandoned it, a Boſton Indian (for the Engliſh
army
CH. VII.
379
SOUTH AMERICA
army was a medley of various kinds of people,) lefs
fearful than the others, offered to clear up the diffi-
culty. Accordingly without any arms, as if dif-
ordered in his fenfes, he went in a rambling manner
towards the gate: where, forfaken as it was, he had
no great difficulty of getting into the fort; and im-
mediately gave notice of its condition by lowering the
French flag. On this fignal the Engliſh army advanced
with great alacrity to take poffeffion; and the artillery
not having been well nailed up, was made fit for fer-
vice; and proved a very great detriment to the town,
which it batter'd in flank.
ALL the guns of the royal battery were from 36 to
40 pounders, the Vigilante alfo carried fome of the fame
fize; all which the Engliſh, on being mafters of this
fort, employed againſt the principal place; and under
the fhelter of thefe guns, which kept a very fmart fire,
they began their approaches, and raiſed forts for bat-
tering in breach. The place was bravely defended:
but a large breach having been made, and every thing
prepared for a ſtorm, it was thought proper to capitu
late on honourable terms; which were readily granted
by the Engliſh, not lefs out of efteem for that valour
which a concurrence of misfortunes had forced to yield,
than from a defire of putting an advantageous period
to a state of life, which had drawn them from their
domeftick concerns, and was not at all agreeable to
their difpofition. The officers of the befieged were
not ignorant, that the moft favourable opportunity of
repelling the enemy, was to fall on them when they
were beginning their works, in order to form their
approaches: yet fuch was the miftruft from the too
recent mutinies of the regular troops, that though they
themſelves made the offer, a fally was not judged ad-
vifeable, fearing that the foldiers in their prefent dif
content, being once without the walls, would go over
to the enemy, either from a dread of the puniſhments
which they were confcious their difobedience deferved,
and
380
A VOYAGE TO BOOK III.
and would on fome favourable opportunity be inflicted
on them; or to be revenged for the oppreffions which
they had undergone from their commanders.
UNDE a combination of contrary events and with
a weak garrifon, this place held out a fiege of fix weeks;
not furrendering till the end of June. By this fuccefs
England made an acquifition of new dominions, and
the colony of Boſton acquired an increaſe of territory,
profperous before throughout its large inland extent,
it only wanted this ifland to command the whole coaft:
and Louiſbourg being now annexed to it, a fhort ac-
count of this colony will not perhaps be unacceptable.
1
CHAP. VIII.
Of the ENGLISH COLONY of BOSTON, its rife,
progrefs, and other particulars.
HE firſt ſettlement of the colonies of New Eng-
land, the principal province of which bears that
name, and has Bofton for its capital, was made in the
year 1584 by Sir Water Raleigh, tho' the firſt difco-
very of theſe coafts is not to be attributed to him; Juan
Ponce de Leon, having many years before, namely
in 1513, given them the name of Florida, from his
diſcovery of them on palm funday; he was foon after
followed by Lucas Vazques de Ayllon, a native of
Toledo, who having been driven by a tempeft on the
eaſt coaſt of Florida, he afterwards employed an inter-
val of fair weather, in coafting, reconnoitring, and tak-
ing draughts of its capes, rivers, and bays; at the fame
time landing in ſeveral parts, and quietly trading with
the natives.
RALEIGH took poffeffion of this country in the name
of queen Elizabeth of England, and gave it the title
of Virginia, a corruption as ſome think from that of
the
CH. VIII.
381
SOUTH AMERICA.
the chief Cacique of thefe parts, who was called Vi-
ginea; but others, and indeed the generality, will have
it to have been in honour of his fovereign; and in
allufion to that princefs's invariable averfion to mar-
riage, which would have brought her into a ftate of
fubordination; but to whoever the compliment was
defigned, whether to the Cacique or the queen, this is
the name of that part of the coaft which reaches from
38 to 45 deg. of N. latitude. Raleigh began to peo-
ple it with his countrymen; and he found fuch great
numbers ready to embrace his propofals, and fecond
any further enterprizes, that the fettlement he had
made, increaſed beyond expectation, and the country
was divided into ſeveral provinces, beginning with the
moſt northward, which lies in 45 deg. by the names
of New England, New York, Pennfylvania, Maryland,
and the moſt fouthern retained its original name of
Virginia. This laft was the chief object of the atten-
tion of Raleigh, and afterwards of England: no mea-
fures were neglected for the peopling and profperity of
it. Hither particularly fled the unfortunate friends of
Charles I. as an aſylum from the cruelties of Cromwell
and his parliament, who, not fatisfied with having em-
brued their hands in the blood of that monarch, by
caufing his head to be ftruck off on a publick ſcaf-
fold, and by this action cafting a fhade over the ho-
nour of the nation; now endeavoured to wash off that
horrid ftain by the blood of others: and to palliate
their tyranny, and give a colour of juftice to their re-
folutions, they pretended that all who did not conform
to their pleaſure, were the king's adherents and malig-
nants. In this dangerous fituation, great numbers of
honourable families were obliged to feek in other cli-
mates that fecurity, which they could no longer enjoy
in their native country.
THESE numerous emigrations not only enlarged the
first towns in Virginia, but alfo occafioned the building
of many others. The royalifts had made choice of
Virginia
382
Book III.
AVOYAGE TO
Virginia preferably to any other part, as being fure of
the protection and countenance of Sir William Berkley,
governor of that province, who abhorring the pro-
cedure against his fovereign, maintained his loyalty
unfhaken; refufing obedience to Cromwell, and im-
mediately declaring for the fon of the late unfortunate
monarch, as his rightful ſovereign: but though Virgi-
nia had received fuch large additions by feveral vaſt
emigrations of people, and though companies were
erected in England for the fupport of it, yet not re-
ceiving the neceffaries wanted both for cultivation and
defence, they had the mortification of feeing the pro-
vince of New-York taken from them by the Dutch;
who, defirous of a fettlement on this coaft, twice dif-
lodged the Engliſh, reducing them within the limits of
Virginia, till a peace was concluded betwixt thefe two
nations on the 19th of February, 1674.
THIS was not the only diſgrace attending the Eng-
liſh in theſe parts: for as the Dutch had drove them
from New-York, fo they were difpoffeffed of other
countries; of Florida by the Spaniards, and of Canada
by the French: and tho' they ftill remained maſters of a
confiderable extent of country, yet their fettlements
were not ſo ſecure, fo well eſtabliſhed, and placed on
fo good a footing as they have been fince. This partly
årofe from the difcovery of a tract of land betwixt
New-York and Virginia; the foil fo fertile, and the
temperature fo mild, that it was thought the peopling
of it would be attended with greater advantages than
that of any other of their colonies. This diſcovery
with the particulars, was fortunately publiſhed in Eng-
land at a time when ſevere perfecutions were carrying on
againſt the quakers, a fect newly fprung up, and which,
like primitive chriftianity, increafed the more it was
perfecuted, that now it numbered amongst its mem-
bers feveral perfons of a more elevated rank and greater
abilities than its founders. Among thefe was one Wil-
liam Penn, who, both on account of his parents and
his
CH. VIII.
383
SOUTH AMERICA;
his perfonal qualities, was univerfally esteemed. To
him Charles II. made a grant of the province, that he
might withdraw thither with all his fect; as thus it
would become totally extinguiſhed, and policy hoped
to accomplish that by indulgence, which it had in vain
attempted by rigour.
THIS grant was made to William Penn in the year
1681; tho' others date it from the year 1682. How-
ever, he ſet out with a numerous and well-provided
company; and began to people the province which had
been granted him, calling it Pennfylvania, from his
own name, and the woodiness of the country. In order
to increaſe his numbers, and fecure their ftay by the
ftrongeſt ties, he made one of the fundamental laws of
his colony, a general toleration, by which all who fol-
lowed the precepts of morality, fhould enjoy the free
exerciſe of their religion, without moleftation; which,
with other privileges and immunities granted to the
fettlers, had fuch good confequences, that induftrious
perfons flocked thither from feveral parts, particularly
the French refugees from England. The number of
families increaſed in a fhort time to fuch a furprizing
degree, that the firft territory not being fufficient for
them, they ſpread themſelves along the neighbouring
colonies on the coaft; where their defcendants ftill
continue. To theſe are owing the commencement and
rife of the town of Bofton, which, by the deſcription
I have from many who have been there, may, for ex-
tent, wealth, and handfome buildings, vie with fome
of the moſt flouriſhing in Europe: nor is this the only
place in fuch happy circumftances. Befides the many
towns on the coafts, the inland parts, to the diſtance of
one hundred leagues and more, alfo make a chearful
appearance, being diverfified with large towns, villa-
ges, feats, and plantations. Thus, from the exuberant
fertility of the country and the induſtry of the people,
the nation reaps an immenfe benefit.
THE refort of ſo many nations, which compoſe the
inhabi-
384
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE TO
inhabitants of New-England and the other provinces,
renders them fo populous and wealthy, that a con-
fiderable kingdom might be formed of them: for
though its extent along the coaſt be not very large
in compariſon of others in America, this deficiency is
compenſated by its inland diſtance, and the great num-
ber of people it contains. Theſe inhabitants, though
fo different as to their native countries, are all fubject
to the fame laws in refpect of polity and civil govern-
ment; and live in a quiet obedience to them and har-
mony with each other. As to religion, the original
toleration ftill obtains; and one fees here all the fects.
of Old England, and even thofe of other proteftant
countries: but the roman catholicks, ſo far from being.
tolerated or connived at, are not admitted to fettle in
this colony.
:
ALL this country is of an extraordinary fertility, and
particularly abounds in timber for fhips; fo that great
numbers of veffels are every year built in theſe parts,
though the timber is not accounted the fitteſt for this
ufe, as not lafting above eight or ten years, and therefore
is made ufe of only for floops, bilanders, brigantines,
and other veffels of fmall burden. Theſe large and
wealthy provinces, fuch as that of Bofton and the
others, are fubject to the fovereign only, as agree-
able to their own laws: the gentleness of the govern-
ment to them fecures their affection; and the governor
fent over to them from England is looked upon by
the others only as one of their eminent fellow citizens;
and beloved for his care of the publick welfare and
the tranquility and fafety of the whole fociety. They
allow him a competent falary: as they do alfo to the
judges, for the more fedulous adminiftration of justice,
without any further impoft, tax, or demand. In order
to prevent the leaſt encroachment on ſuch a ſtate of
freedom, they allow of no fortifications or garriſons
among them, that under pretence of fecurity of their
poffeffions their liberties may be in danger. Thus
thefe
CH. VIII
383
SOUTH AMERICA:
theſe provinces, in reality, conftitute a kind of repub
lick, partly admitting the political laws of England as
depending on it; but either amends or rejects thoſe
which may injure its immunities: the towns being the
fortreffes of the country, and the inhabitants the garri-
fons. Here is feen an univerfal concord, union, and
friendſhip: the great do not defpife or infult the
mean, nor the rich diſtinguiſh himſelf from the poor;
by luxury, pomp, and an imperious carriage. Here
alſo is none of that pernicious, diſhoneſt affectation of
appearing above their circumſtances: and what is ftill
more admirable, that though five or fix different fects
are openly profeffed, we ſee none of thoſe feuds which
naturally arife among perfons of different perfuafions.
Nor do the inhabitants, notwithſtanding they are com-
pofed of ſuch different kinds, as Europeans, Creoles,
Meſtizos, and natives or Indians, the latter of which
are intractable and ferocious, ever offer to distúrb the
government; but imitate, in this particular, the peace-
ful behaviour of the others. This fociable conformity
greatly contributes to the increaſe of theſe colonies; for
as many of the causes of the decay of families do not
fubfift here, nor is there any thing to create privatel
differences, the repoſe in which they live, naturally in-
duces young perfons to marry; and the rather, as there
is no difficulty in providing a fubfiftence: a quantity
of fertile land being allotted to every one who petitions
for it. Thus the territories of the colony increafe, and
as they increaſe are cultivated.
THE marquis de la Maiſon Forte having been car-
ried to Bofton after he was made prifoner, drew up ar
exact account of this colony; and was pleafed whilft
we were both prifoners at Fareham in England, tơ
communicate it to me: and it is from thence I have
chiefly extracted the foregoing account. The marquis
is of opinion, that within a century, Bofton, in extent
and number of people, will form a kingdom fuperior
to that of England; and will be able to give law to all
VOL. II.
C G
the
386
A VOYAGE TO Book III.
}
the neighbouring countries. This conjecture he de-
duces, and not without probability, from its amazing
progreſs fince the time of its firſt eſtabliſhment; nor
can it well be doubted, when at its commencement, as
I may fay, it had a fpirit fufficient to undertake the
conqueft of fuch a place as Louifbourg; and a conduct
to accompliſh it; fo that it is reafonable to expect, that
with the future increment of power and people, it will
exert the fame fpirit and conduct to remove by force
all obftacles to its greater aggrandizement: efpecially
as they can meet with little refiftance, the whole coun-
try being, as it were, deftitute of inhabitants.
But it muſt be obferved, that though theſe colonies
are fo large, fertile, well peopled, and flouriſhing, yet
the current money is not of metal, but of paper, in the
form of common coin, being two round pieces paſled
together, and ſtampt on each fide with the arms of the
colony and of this there are pieces of all values from
the loweſt to the higheft; and with theſe they buy and
fell without making ufe of any metallic coin whatever.
But as thefe are liable to grow foul, or break with uſe,
there is a particular houſe which may be called a kind
of mint, this paper-money being made there; and ano-
ther in every town for the diftribution of it. To thefe
houfes are brought all fuch pieces as from any cauſe
whatever can no longer paſs current: and here others of
like value are iffued in the lieu of them. In this parti-
cular the difintereſtedneſs and probity of the directors
of this money are really admirable, as having it in their
power to enrich themfelves by caufing great numbers
of this fpecie to be ftruck, and putting them in their
own purſes.
THE houſes for diſtribution of this money receive
remittances of new from the chief houfe at Boſton, and
paſs accounts with the directors by fending thoſe which
have been brought for exchange. And fuch is the in-
tegrity of thefe judges, that even a flight fufpicion of
being capable of a fraud would be an injury to the
high
CH. VIII.
387
SOUTH AMERICA.
high reputation in which they ſtand. But what feems
ftrange and almoft incredible is, that they, in whoſe
power it is to give what value they pleaſe to the paper,
by the ſtamps, of which they have the care, never have
been known to abuſe their truft: but the wonder ceaſes
upon reflecting, that the former eſtabliſhment of theſe
colonies is in a manner owing to quakers; and that, to
the laws which they and the firft fettlers compiled,
the colonies chiefly owe that quiet and profperity they
fill enjoy. The quakers are a kind of fectaries,
who tho' zealouſly fond of feveral ridiculous and
extravagant notions, cannot be fufficiently commend-
ed for their punctual obfervance of the laws of na-
ture: fometimes they carry this ftrictnefs to fuperfti-
tion: and from this principle all the penalties laid on
them in England could not bring them to take the oaths
required by the government, fo that at length they
obtained from the parliament, that the ſimple affirma-
ation of a quaker fhould have the fame force as an oath,
except in capital cafes. As they make fuch a ftrict pro-
feffion of truth, and lay down as a fundamental article
of their belief, the neceffity of inviolably adhering to
their affirmation, they alfo make profeffion of can-
dour, juftice and fimplicity in all their dealings; and
it is a thing well known, that all treaties, agreements
and conventions made with quakers, tho' only on their
bare word, prove better founded and fufilled, with-
out any of that chicane and delay, which fo often oc-
curs in thoſe with other people, tho' corroborated by
bonds, witneffes and fecurities. Such perfons as thefe
having the direction, diftribution and making of the
money in the colony of Penfylvania, and others where
it is current, the inhabitants are under no manner of
concern with regard to any malverfation; nor can it
morally be expected, for fuch a breach of truft would
be a total departure from their faith. This has been.
their uniform conduct: and as this fect has greatly
increaſed in thefe colonies, they have always ftrictly
Cc 2
ad-
388
A VOYAGE TO
}
BOOK III.
adhered to their ceremonies and rules; and irreproach-
ably obferved the maxims tranfmitted to them by
their anceſtors; and this probity has doubtleſs com-
municated itſelf to the members of other religions,
that among thofe people to harbour the flighteft fuf-
picion concerning the difintereſtedneſs of their magi-
ftrates, would be an injury; thofe virtues being as
common here as they are rare among other nations.
:
THE traders fell all their European goods in ex-
change for this money; and with it buy thofe of the
country; and confign them to their correfpondents
in other parts for vent: and having made up their
gains in filver or gold they remit it to the bank in
London and as in their own country they ftand in
no need of coined gold, or filver, they purchaſe with
the yearly returns of their gains fuch goods as they
want and theſe they ſend to Bofton on their ac-
count. Thus the commerce is every where kept up;
and the filver and gold fpecie remain in England.
The wealthy inhabitants of Bofton have at the fame
time two capitals; one in effects and paper-money;
and the other returns from the bank, where the prin-
cipal refts without any diminution.
HAVING given this fhort account of the happy
itate of theſe Engliſh colonies; and the means by
which they are maintained, I fhall add, as a conclufion
of this fubject, that the unfortunate Delivrance was not
the only hip deceived by the falfe appearance of
Louifbourg being ftill in the hands of the French.
The fame fate befel the Charmonte and Heron, two
homeward bound Eaft Indiamen; and who had orders
to touch at no other port than Louifbourg, where
they wou'd find a fquadron of men of war, under
whofe convoy they might fafely reach Europe.
CHAP.
CH. IX. SOUTH AMERICA.
389
CHA P. IX.
Voyage from LOUISBOURG to NEWFOUNDLAND;
account of that Iſland, and the Cod fifhery : and
alſo of our Voyage to ENGLAND.
I
Shall not trouble the reader with an account of
the diſagreeable circumftances of our captivity at
Louiſbourg; but juſtice and gratitude will not permit
me to paſs over the humanity of Mr. Warren, com-
modore of the English fquadron; who, among many
other inftances of his kindnefs to us, befides the ho-
nour of his table, which I feveral times enjoyed, re-
commended my papers to the care, and myſelf to the
good treatment of the captain of the fhip who was
to carry me to England.
On the 5th of October, arrived at Louifbourg a
packet-boat, which had been difpatched for England
with the news of the taking that place; and brought
with her, grants from the king of England of the
title of baronet to Mr. Warren, and to Mr. Pepperell;
alſo two commiffions for the former, appointing him
governor of the iſland, and rear admiral of the blue;
and to the latter a colonel's commiffion, accompanied
with many gracious expreffions, relating to the be-
haviour of theſe gentlemen. News at the fame time
arrived that a fquadron of men of war was ready to
fail with a convoy, having on board two thoufand
regular troops as a garrifon to the new conqueſt, and
fix hundred perfons of both fexes towards peopling
it, with provifions, military ftores, and every thing
neceſſary to put it in a poſture of defence, in caſe
the French fhould attempt to recover it. The ex-
pectation of this fquadron was the only thing that de-
lay'd the other at Louiibourg, it being defigned to
convoy the Newfoundland fleet; and the time of its
Cc 3
return
399
A VOYAGE TO Book III.
return to Europe now drew near. And as the arrival
of the former could not be far off, preparations were
making for our departure: and the prifoners of the
three prizes, together with the few French families
which remain'd difperfed in their dwellings on the
iſland, and on that of St. John, were to be diſtributed
on board the ſhips of the fquadron. I was ordered on
board the Sunderland, commanded by captain John
Brett, with whom my misfortune had before procu-
red me fome acquaintance; as likewife the captain
and officers of the Delivrance with others; one of
thefe was Monfieur de Baubaftin, a perfon of great
note in Louifbourg; and who, as captain of the mi-
litia, was the more able to acquaint me with feveral
particulars relating to the hege, in which I have rea-
fon to believe he did not fpare himſelf.
ON the 4th of October, we embarked on board
our reſpective ſhips. The fquadron confifted of the
Princess Mary, commanded by captain Edwards, who
as oldeſt captain was commodore, the Sunderland, the
Superbe, and the Canterbury: the three firft of fixty
guns, and the laft of forty fix or fifty. The Heron
and Charmante had alfo been fitted up as armed fhips:
the only ones remaining in the harbour, being the
Vigilante, now repaired from the damages fhe had re-
ceived in the action, and the Chefter.
My papers, as I have before obſerved, Sir Peter
Warren delivered to captain Brett, with orders on
his arrival in England to remit them to the admi-
ralty. On the 19th of October, the fquadron put
to fea, fteering for Newfoundland. On the 22d, in
the evening we had fight of cape Raze. On the
23d, the wind being at S. W. the fquadron tacked
for the bay of Bulls, where it intended to anchor;
but that being found impracticable, on the 24th it
entered that of Ferryland, and remained there till all
the merchant fhips, which were taking in their lad-
ing of cod in the other harbours of the iſland, had
·
ren-
4
CH. IX.
391
SOUTH AMERICA.
rendezvous'd: the method of this fishery and com-
merce, as likewiſe the iſland itſelf being little known
in Europe, I fhall give as good an account of it, as
my late fituation will admit of; the most innocent
queſtions or undefigning remarks, being fufpicious in
a priſoner.
THE Capital of the iſland of Newfoundland, ſo
famous for the cod-fifhery along its coafts and the
neighbouring feas, is Placentia. Its firft difcovery
and peopling was owing to the Spaniards before the
year 1550, as the very name of the capital, and fe-
veral other capes and parts of it, as cape Buena
Viſta, Punta Rica, fufficiently demonftrate. But
probably the fettlement they made here was of little
force; for in 1583, Humphry Girber an Englishman
fettled there; tho' he was afterwards obliged to eva-
cuate it, and fail for England in the following year;
but did not reach it, periſhing in a ſtorm.
IN the year 1622, the English again returned to
fettle in this iſland, under the conduct of Mr. George
Calvert, who, with more forefight than his prede
ceffor, brought with him all kinds of feeds, grain,
and pulfe, and immediately fet his followers to
work in clearing thoſe parts which feemed beſt a-
dapted to culture; and accordingly the produce of
his feeds contributed greatly to the comfortable ſub-
fiftence of theſe new adventurers, befides affording a
ſtock for the enfuing years.
THE French had for a long time been in poſ-
feffion of Placentia, and with it of the principal part
of this iſland, but without any moleftation to the fet-
tlements of the Engliſh on the eaſtern coafts of it;
and the veffels of both nations quietly fifh'd toge-
ther. The Engliſh, however, long entertain'd a
defire of making themfelves mafters of Placentia,
as the only fortified town in the iſland, as alſo of
the whole fouthern part held by the French. They
Cc 4
had
་་
392
A VOYAGE TO BOOK III.
had tried force and negociations to compaſs their
ends; but all their endeavours ended in difappoint-
ment, till the peace of Utrecht, concluded betwixt
that nation and Lewis XIV. of France; when they
took advantage of the low state to which that mo
narch was reduced, and infifted on the entire and ab-
folute ceffion of Newfoundland; and ever fince that
time no other nation has fettled there; tho' with a
reſerve of the right of cod-fiſhing both to the French
and Spaniards; to the former by articles nine, ten and
twelve of that ceffion; and to the Spaniards by the
15th article of the fame treaty.
THE Country of this ifland is very unequal, and
covered with hills and mountains; and thefe at a
diſtance appear much higher than thoſe near the fea.
They are allo every where overgrown with pines or
pruches, as the French call them, fo as to be prac-
ticable only in thoſe parts, where the inhabitants
háve cut roads This fpecies of pine feldom exceed
the height of two or three toifes in the open parts:
but in valleys where they are fheltered from the froft
and the piercing winds, they rife to a much greater
height. In winter the cold is exceffive here, nothing
but fnow and ice being feen; and the bays and har-
bours entirely frozen. This fevere weather fets in fo
early, that tho' it was but the 21ft of November when
we were there, it froze to fuch a degree, that we
were obliged to wait till the fun had begun to break
the ice; and thus force a way thro' without waiting
till the next day, left the froft fhould return; and then
it would have been impoffible, and the ſhips under the
dreadful neceffity of wintering among the ice.
THIS is the more remarkable, as the latitude of
Placentia is only 47 degr. 10 min. and the bay
where we happened to be was but little more. The
inhabitants of the inland keep themfelves fhut up in
their houfes during the winter, except in fair and
fun-
CH. IX.
393
SOUTH AMERICA.
fun-fhiny weather, when they go out with a great
deal of pleaſure to enjoy the enlivening rays of the
fun.
THE whole circuit of the island is full of bays
and harbours, all fo fpacious and fheltered on all
fides by the mountains except their entrance, that
the veffels lie in perfect fecurity; they all grow gra-
dually narrower from their entrance, that at the end
of them, there is fcarce room for a fingle veffel to
anchor. Some of thefe harbours are a league and
a half or two leagues in length; and their greateft
breadth about half a league. But there are alſo
others much larger and fome lefs; into them run
feveral rivers and brooks, which befides the fineneſs
of their water afford great quantities of trouts and
other kinds of freſh water fish, feeming to vie with
the fea in fœcundity. Thefe harbours are complete
anchoring places, being clear, and having a good
bottom, that they may be fafely failed into without
a pilot. Some there are with reefs of rocks, but
theſe are generally viſible; and thoſe that are co-
vered, are ufually about the capes or points at the
entrance of the harbours and therefore by keeping in
the middle all danger is avoided. Thefe harbours
are fo near each other, as to be openly feparated by a
point of land, which feldom forms a diſtance of a-
bove two leagues; fo that the whole coaft of the
ifland, is a fuc effion of harbours. But it is not in
all that the English have any town or village; and
thefe, which are to be found only on the larger bays,
and where the nature and difpofition of the country
are moſt convenient for a ſettlement, are ſmall, and
the inhabitants but few. Cod-fifhing is the uni-
verfal buſineſs; and befides their dwellings they have
offices and ſtorehouſes for preparing and laying up
their fifh till the time arrives for fending it into Eu-
rope, on their own account, or felling it to veffels
which come there to purchaſe it in exchange for
Euro-
394
A VOYAGE TO
Book III.
European goods. None of thefe villages are without
a fort or battery for their fecurity in time of war;
but theſe are ſo infignificant, that the moft they
could do would be to drive away fome petty pri
vateer. The greateft extent of this ifland is from
N. to S. being ninety five leagues, that is, from
cape St. Mary, in 46 degr. 55 min. to the north-
cape which forms the ftreights of Beliſle in 51 degr.
20 min. And the diftance from E. to W. that is,
from cape Raze to cape Cod, is eighty leagues.
But the fettlements of the English are only about
the harbours and in the country near Placentia; and
along its bays eaftward towards cape Raze, and
from thence to cape Buena Vifta: all the remain-
der both up the country and along the coaft, north-
wards towards the ftreights, and from thence weftward,
is entirely defart. This muſt however be imputed
to the rigour of the climate, and the badneſs of the
foil, more than to any neglect of the proprietors,
who ſeldom are wanting in induſtry, when they have
a probability of fuitable advantages. The inhabi-
tants relate, that it was formerly peopled by a race
of favage Indians, who fince have retired to the
continent; nor do they often vifit the island, and
even when they do, they stay but a very fmall time,
returning to the continent from whence they came.
This was indeed their cuſtom before ever the names
of French or English were known in the iſland, re-
tiring from the feverity of the frofts at the approach
of winter. Thefe In tians generally live by fiſhing
and hunting; and both this iſland, the iſle royale
and the adjacent parts of Canada, abound in buftards
and wild geefe. There are alfo found, tho' in no
great numbers, the quadrupeds of this country, as
foxes, bears, beavers and others: but the continual
fearch after them for the fake of their ſkins has
much leffened their numbers.
UNDER all the feverity of the climate, they are
not
CH. IX.
395
SOUTH AMERICA.
not without ſome horned cattle; but theſe are pre-
ſerved with no lefs care and difficulty than at Lou-
ifbourg. The inhabitants have alfo their little
kitchen gardens for fummer herbs: but all the other
fpecies of provifions, as flour, falt, meat, &c. they
are fupplied with from Bofton, Penfylvania, and o-
ther colonies to the fouthward. With regard to the
goods of other kinds, they are brought from Eng-
land.
HAVING obferved in chapter feven that the greateſt
part of the French fhips employed in the cod-trade do
not take in their lading at Louifbourg, it will be ne-
ceſſary to explain the nature of this trade; and in or-
der to a more clear underſtanding of this traffick it is to
be obferved, that the fhips both of that nation and
thofe of England, have two methods of carrying it
on; one is to go to the fishing villages, and there buy
a cargo in barter for goods, or to load with cod on
their owners account; the other is to employ the
fhip's company in fishing in the inhabited bays;
and for this the French make uſe of the harbours
on the weft part of the island of Newfoundland,
which as being defart, and likewife an article ftipu-
lated in the treaty of peace, no oppofition is made.
to it for this feems to me the meaning of the ex-
preffion often occuring in the treaties, That the
English fhall admit the French and Spaniards into the
barbours of Newfoundland: and not as fome infift the
harbours where the Engliſh have ſettlements, they
having referved thefe for their own conveniency.
This certainly is the moſt natural interpretation, for
the latter being their dwelling and the best part of
the iſland, it is not to be thought that they would
give them away to others, the convenience of har-
bours, being the fole and chief advantage of this
ifland: and this was the only point in view amidſt
the conteſts of nations for the poffeffion of a country
valuable only for the fishery; and where the inhabi
tants,
3.95 A VOYAGE TO
Book III.
1
rants, at leaſt two thirds of the year labour under
all the inconveniences and hardships of deep fnows,
hard frolts, and other rigours of winter.
THE Weſtern coaft of this ifland, diftinguiſhed by
the name of Petit Nord, and no lefs provided with
bays and harbours than thofe inhabited by the En-
gliſh, forms the department where the French vef-
fels repair to fish; as likewife north beyond the river
of St. Laurence; and ftretching eastward forms Bel-
ifle ftreight. In all thefe parts it is an inviolable
rule, that the veffels which comes firft has the privi
lege of chufing her bay, and the beft part in it for
filhing; and likewife has the title of admiral of it:
and as fuch not only all the timber works which
happen to remain there belong to the mafter, but he
alfo affigns to every veffel her particular birth, tho'
herein he has always a regard to the date of their com-
ing into the bay and during the whole time of the
fishery, he carries a flag at his main-top-maft head.
This diftinction and the advantage of chufing the
ftation for fishing, are fuch powerful incentives to
expedition, that tho' the harbours are generally fro-
zen in the months of March and April, fome fhips
arrive there during thefe months, and fecure to
themſelves the beft ftations, and build huts before-
hand, by fending fome of their crew in their long-
boats, when the fhip is at the diſtance of fifty
leagues or more from the coaft, tho' it must be ac-.
knowledged, that this ardor is often attended with
fatal confequences; the boat during the darkneſs of
the nights running on the large iflands of ice com-
mon on the coaft; aud fometimes founder in
ftorms, which are here very fudden and violent.
But thefe dangers are all overlook'd by an attach-
ment to gain and frivolous ambition. The fuccefs
or failure of this fishery depend indeed in a great
meaſure on the ftation. of the fhip, and the conve-
niences for curing the fifh, Befides as the wages paid
、
by
CH. IX.
397
SOUTH AMERICA.
by the owners to the mafter, petty officers and men,
is always one third part of the found fish brought to
Europe, the fhorter the time, the greater is the ad-
vantage to each man on board.
THOUGH all the coafts of Newfoundland may be
faid to abound in cod, yet in fome parts it is found
in greater numbers than in others, and fome there are
which produce few or none. This proceeds from the
quality of the bottom; for thoſe parts where the bot-
tom is fandy are fuller of fiſh than where it is rocky;
but if the bottom be muddy, fiſh are very fcarce: like-
wife in a great depth of water the fish are not caught
in that plenty as when it does not exceed thirty or
forty fathom. For tho' cod be found at a greater
or leſs depth, yet this feems to be that which the
cod moft delight in.
SUCH are the motives for which the maſters of
veffels in this trade are fo eager to be among the
firft, that they may chufe their feveral conveniences,
in order to finish their fifhery with the greater dif-
patch; and returning early to Europe, may turn
their cargo to a better account.
WHEN a fhip has taken her ſtation, fhe is imme-
diately unrigg'd; and at the fame time a fit place
chofen for fecuring the fiſh, as it is prepared: huts
are likewiſe run up for the men who work afhore,
fo as to form a kind of village; and at the water's
edge is alſo built a large ftage or fcaffold. Here
the number of launches defigned for the fishery is
got ready, and when built are left there till the fol-
lowing year; when he who firft enters the bay, has
the privilege of applying them to his own ufe. E-
very thing being ready, the whole fhip's company,
officers included, without exception of any one, are
divided into as many claffes as there are occupa-
tions: fome fiſh, others cut off the heads, others
gut the fish, which the French call habiller; whilft
others have the care of faltirg and laying them up.
The
398
A VOYAGE TO
Book III.
The fiſhers fet out very early in their boats, that
they may be at their ftation by break of day, and
do not retu:n till the evening, unless they happen
to have caught their boat-load before. This fifhery
is all performed with the hook; and every boat is
provided with a fufficient quantity of all kinds of
fishing-tackle, to be ready at hand in cafe of any
accident, as breaking a line or the like. On their
return the fish is delivered to thoſe who open them;
and that this may be done with the greater difpatch,
a boy ftands by to hand them to them and take
them away when cured. This work is done in a
methodical manner; for he who beheads them does
nothing elſe. They are opened with one cut length-
wife, their back bone, and all their entrails are taken
out; and another immediately taken in hand, and
the offals thrown into the fea. While fome open,
others falt, and others again pile up'; and all this is
done with the greateſt care and regularity. The next
day, or when the falt appears to have fufficiently
penetrated, they waſh them, and take them in pairs
by the tails, then ſhake them in the water in order
to carry off the fcum extracted by the falt: after-
wards, that the water may run off, they are piled
up on little boards; then they are ftretched out one
by one, with the fkin upwards, in order for drying,
where they are turned three or four times. Being
thus thoroughly dried, they are piled up in fmall
parcels that they may not entirely lofe the heat
communicated to them by the firft falt and now
being falted a fecond time, they are laid up in re-
gular heaps on the ftage; and there they remain till
the time of fhipping them. As the boats go con
tantly every day, the work of the feveral claffes
may be imagined pretty hard and fatiguing. On
the return of the boats they immediately begin with
opening and falting the fifh, which takes up the
greater part of the night; and the fucceeding parts
A
心
​+
of
CH. IX.
399
SOUTH AMERICA.
of the curing abovementioned neceffarily keep them
employed the following day, when the return of
the barks calls upon them to renew their task; that
thus they have very few hours left for fleep and re-
freſhment. There are two kinds of cod, as to their
quality; and of each three fizes. Both have a line
running from the gills to the tail; following the fi-
gure of the belly of the fish, and winds a little
downwards from the head to the tail; but this is
more diftinct in one fpecies than the other: and the
whole fish from this line to the back is of a dark
brown, whilft the lower part is ſpotted with white. The
connoiffeurs in fish fay that this is better than the
other; the whole body of which is of a darkish
white with reddifh fpots; but the belly and all its
hinder parts the whiteft. I fhall not enter into an
account of the difproportion of its head compara-
tively to the other fiſhes, or the quantity of oil made
from it and the livers, which are alfo very large.
As to the fpecies diftinguifhed by their fize, the
ftandard cod is that which is two feet in length
with the head off. The fecond is ſmaller, called the
middling: the third is the leaft. The dealers in this
commodity however fubdivide it into feven or eight
kinds one of theſe is a fiſh in the opening of which,
or in fevering the head, fome fault has been com-
mitted.
ANOTHER kind of fifhery; but followed more by
the French than any other nation, is that of the
Mud-fifh and they cure it in the following man-
ner. This fish is caught on the great bank of New-
foundland; and others as far as fandy iſland fouth
of L'ifle royale: and as foon as it is caught it is o-
pened, falted and laid in little piles in the hold of
the fhip, till it has fufficiently purged; then they
fhift its place, and having falted it a fecond time,
ftow it for the voyage. The fhips intending for this
fishery repair to the bank in the beginning of Fe-
bruary;
400
A VOYAGE ΤΟ BOOK III.
bruary: as that caught in fummer, that is after June
or July, on any of the banks, is inferior to that
caught at the end of winter, thefe fhips finifh their
fishery and return to Europe with fuch difpatch,
that fometimes they are known to make two voya-
ges in a year. For 'tis the fouth part of the bank
that this fifh chiefly haunts: and thefe likewife are
accounted better than thofe taken on the north.
THE cod appears to be one of the most prolifick
kind of fish. Of this there needs no other proof
than the great number of fhips which annually load
with it only from this ifland: and it is only known
in theſe feas; for tho' the British channel and the
German ocean are not without this fish, their num-
bers are fo inconfiderable comparatively to thofe of
Newfoundland, that they may rather be looked
upon as ftragglers. Some perfons of long experi-
ence in this fishery, informed us that the cod ſpawns
twice a year; and befides the infinite number of
their animalculæ, it is very feldom that any of them
mifcarry; for they depofite them in the fand; and
thus by a natural inftinct they are laid on theſe
banks, to which they adhere; without being ever
removed by any agitation of the waters, till impreg-
nated with life. The cod alfo delights to continue
at the bottom; at leaft is never feen on the furface
of the water. But tho' their number is ftill im-
menfe, they are evidently diminiſhed, a proof of this is
that much fewer are now caught in the fame ſpace
of time, than there were twenty five or thirty years
ago.
•
THE coaft of the continent oppofite to New-
foundland is inhabited by Indian favages; and tho
the crown of France keeps poffeffion of it for the
conveniency of the fishery; it has no proper fettle-
ment and was reprefented only by a perfon who
follicited and obtained, without much difficulty, the
title of governor of theſe countries. He kept up a
good
CH. IX.
SOUTH AMERICA.
401
good correfpondence with the Indians, and lived a-
mong them. The winters he ſpent folitarily with
his wife and family; in fummer time he enjoyed the
company of the mafters of the fishing veffels. Thus
he ſpent many years, and as I have been informed,
it was not till this prefent year 1745, or a little be-
fore, that he retired to Canada; and rather out of
indulgence to his wife's fears of fome misfortune in
the preſent war, than from his own inclination.
Theſe Indians live very eafily with the French,
come to their huts, and bring them game in exchange
for brandy, wine and toys: But are much addicted.
to theft, as many ſhips have experienced by the loſs of
their fails and other parts of their furniture when
afhore; ſo that it has been found neceffary to keep
a conftant guard; and for greater fecurity, the tents
and huts are ſo difpofed, as entirely to environ on
the land-fide as in a fort the whole ſpot of ground
where their other neceffaries are kept. Theſe pre-
cautions and the known alertneſs of the French on
any fudden alarm, have difheartened the Indians,
that of late, defpairing of fuccefs, they feem to have
defifted from their pilfering practices.
THE manner of the English fishery on the bays
of the eaſt coaſt of Newfoundland, is carried on
in the fame manner as that of the French before
deſcribed; and whether it be that the great bank lies
neareft, or that its bottom is fuch as this fifh moſt
delights in; and where confequently, it is more nu-
merous than in the western parts, that nation chofe
theſe parts preferably to the others; as the French
do not frequent the weſtern parts fo much as the
Petit Nord,
THE frofts being fet in, laid our fquadron under
a neceffity of haftening out of this bay, which it
left on the 21ft of November, with the veffels un-
der its convoy; and in the offing was joined by
many others, ſo as in the whole to form a fleet of
VOL. II.
betwixt
Dd
402
A VOYAGE TO BOOK III.
betwixt fixty and fixty five fhips of all fizes: and
among theſe were two frigates of forty guns, who
had continued cruifing in thefe parts to ſecure the
fishery againſt any attempts of the French privateers.
Our voyage to England afforded nothing remarka-
ble; and on the morning of the 22d of December,
the ſquadron anchored in Plymouth-found, except
the Sunderland, which kept on her courfe with a con-
fiderable part of the convoy, and at three in the af-
ternoon came to an anchor in Dartmouth road.
WHILST Our fquadron lay at Newfoundland; and
in the paffage to England, it met with feveral
ftorms, which I fhall ſpecify in order to convey fome
idea of what may be expected in theſe feas. On the
3d of November, the wind blowing freſh at W. and
with all the appearances of a violent ftorm, the
wind abated and the weather cleared up. But on
the 10th of the fame month we had a ftorm at
N. W. lafting from two in the afternoon, till two
the next morning; and on its decline fnow and ſhow-
ers. On the 14th it began to blow freſh in the
morning; and at noon came on a ftorm no lefs
violent than the former, at N. E. and E. N. E. It
continued in this point till the 15th, when in the
morning it fhifted to the north, tho' blowing ftill
with the fame force; but at four in the evening it
began to abate. This was fucceeded by thick fnow:
and on the 17th, and the days following, came on
thoſe frofts which obliged the fquadron to haften its
departure from that iſland.
ማሳ
WHILST we were on our voyage,, namely on the
22d of the fame month of November, we had hard
gales at eaft, which on the 23d increafed to a di
rect ſtorm, that lafted with all its violence till the
26th, when the wind came about to S. W. and
the fog which had covered the whole atmoſphere
cleared up. On the 27th of the fame month, it
began to blow hard at S. W. and thus continued at
the
CH. IX.
403
SOUTH AMERICA:
the fame point and at S. arid W. without abating
in violence till the 4th of December; when ſhifting
to the N. W. we had fine weather. Afterwards the
wind was at N.W. and N. and from thence veered
to the N. E. and E. where it continued with fomé
violence till the 21st of December; on the evening
of which it came about to the S. and S. S. W. that
the fleet was obliged to work up the channel. In
48 degr. 45 min. lat. the lead was hove, and found
78 fathom water, with a bottom of fine white fand,
which is the particular mark of the entrance of the
channel.
DARTMOUTH harbour is a kind of road or open
bay, at the end of which ſtands the town of that
name. The country is delightfully interfperfed with
feats and farm-houfes; which with the various culti-
vation of the hills and plains, the verdure of the paf-
tures, and the hedges feparating the fields, make a
moſt agreeable appearance; and fhew the goodneſs
of the foil, and the induſtry of the inhabitants. We
ftay'd here no longer than till the wind favour'd our
proceeding to Portſmouth, which was the rendezvous
of the whole fquadron; and on the 28th the wind
veering to the S. W. and W. we got under fail; and
on the 29th the fhip anchor'd at Spithead, where at
that time lay ſeven three deck fhips carrying from
90 to 100 guns. From the fhip I was carried to
Fareham, a pleaſant village at the upper end of
Portſmouth-harbour, and about three leagues by
land from the town. This being appointed for the
place of my captivity, and of thofe who had been
included in the capitulation of Louifbourg: the fate
of the others was to be confined in the common pri-
fon at Portchefter caftle. The commiffaries indeed
could not well take upon them to difpenfe with the
ftrictness of their orders. I must not here omit the
courteſy and generofity of captain Brett of the Sun-
derland, to all the prifoners of any rank, whom he
J
Ddz
· NOK
404
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE TO
not only admitted to his table during the voyage;
but prevailed on all the other officers to imitate this
good example; and who feemed to vie in civilities
towards us, and humanity towards the inferior fort;
fparing for nothing to alleviate our misfortunes. And
let this remain a monument of my gratitude to fuch
a generous fet of gentlemen.
WE arrived in England at the time when Charles
Edward eldeft fon of the Chevalier de St. George
landed in the north of the kingdom, among the
Scots Highlanders; and was by their affiftance en-
deavouring to recover the throne of his anceſtors;
tho' with how little fuccefs is now known to all
the world. Thefe commotions left little hopes of a
favourable reception to us prifoners, whofe long fuf-
ferings and hardships naturally cauſed more ardent
longings after eafe and liberty: and the jealoufies,
which in fuch cafes are only a prudent care, toge
ther with the irregularity of fome prifoners, who,
contrary to the rules of honour, abuſe any indul-
gence fhewn them, and violate their parole, occa-
fioned an order for abridging the prifoners of feve-
ral privileges they had before enjoyed, and confin-
ing them with greater ftrictnefs. However, the
favours which Mr. Brookes, commiffary for the
French prifoners, and Mr. Rickman, who acted in
the fame capacity for the Spaniards, were pleafed to
fhew me, were accompanied with fuch politenefs and
cordiality, that I became entirely eafy under my pre-
fent condition, and even the reflection on my misfor-
tunes grew lefs painful. Here I could expatiate in
the praiſe of theſe two gentlemen; the former to his
learning, abilities, and addrefs in the conduct of affairs,
added the moſt endearing humanity, of which all
the priſoners in his department felt the good effects;
but I fhall not infift on a character, the brightneſs
of which would be but obfcured by the praiſes of
my infufficient pen.
THE
CH. IX.
405
SOUTH AMERICA.
1
1
THE Commiffary for the Spaniſh prifoners, was
Mr. William Rickman, under whofe care confe-
quently I fhould have been, without the circumftance
of having been taken in a French fhip: yet my be-
ing a Spaniard recommended me to his kindneſs,
which I with gratitude own he carried to a very
great height; and I had a large fhare of thofe acts
of goodneſs by which he has deferved the univerfal
acknowledgement of the whole Spaniſh nation. For
from the beginning of the war, and the taking of
the Princeffa, he exerted all poffible care for the
comfort of the common prifoners; and the chief
officers he even lodged at his own feat, and many
others at an adjacent farm-houſe, about a quarter of
a league from Titchfield in the London-road, called
Pefbrook, and about three miles from Fareham. He
made public and private folicitations in their behalf;
he treated all with affability, and uſed the greateſt
diſpatch in their feveral affairs: he raiſed charitable
contributions, which were chiefly laid out in apparel
for thofe of the lower clafs; and the officers he in
the moſt genteel manner furniſhed with money, that
they might live in tolerable decency.
BOTH the abovemention'd gentlemen offered to join
their intereſt in folliciting the admiralty for my papers,
which was the thing I had moft at heart; but I
judged that Mr. Brookes, being the commiffary to
whom I belonged, it would come beft from him to
incloſe my petition, with his recommendation to the
duke of Bedford, and the admiralty, that they
would be pleaſed to order my papers to be exa-
mined for their fatisfaction, and then return them
to me. The anſwer was entirely becoming the gene
rofity of that nation among which the chance of
war had brought me: this was, that the duke of
Bedford, as firſt commiffioner of the admiralty, and
the other lords of that board unanimously, and with
pleaſure granted the contents of my memorial;
Dd 3
nobly
406
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE TO
1
nobly adding that they were not at war with the arts
and fciences or their profeffors; that the English na-
tion cultivated them; and it was the glory of its mi-
nifters and great men to protect and encourage them.
In the fame generous ftrain ran all the anſwers with
which the admiralty were pleafed to honour me with,
by their ſecretary Mr. Corbet; and this condefcen-
fion put into my hands an opportunity of folliciting
feveral favours to the great relief of the Spaniſh pri-
foners who were in Fareham hofpital, and the com-
mon prifon, befides fome perfonal favours for myſelf.
The worthy Mr. Brookes, foon after my arrival, had
offered to procure me a warrant for going over to
France, in a packet-boat, which was to carry over
to St. Malo the Louifbourg captives. But I could
not think of going out of England and leaving my
papers behind me.
!
1
THE infurrection in Scotland induced the admi-
ralty to iffue orders, that all prifoners who were up-
on leave in London, fhould immediately repair to
fome diftant places; tho' in this no more was meant
than their own fecurity, left in the prefent commo-
tions the people fhould rife upon them being Roman
catholics, the fovereigns of which religion were
judged to foment the rebellion. On this I laid afide
all thoughts of folliciting leave to go to London,
tho' I was not infenfible that my affairs required my
perfonal attendance there. Thus I was obliged to
wait till the agitation of the court fubfided; for as
by their importance they neceffarily took up the at-
tention of all the perfons at the helm, a confiderable
time naturally elapfed, before I had the pleaſure of
feeing the accompliſhment of the admiralty's promiſes
relating to my papers.
It was not long before the ſcale was turned by the
great levies of troops in England, and the tranfpor-
tation of others from Flanders to act against thofe
of the pretender, whofe fon having fuftained a de-
fear,
CH. IX.
407
SOUTH AMERICA.
feat, and being deſtitute of all reſource, was obliged
to withdraw from the kingdom. On this the per-
turbations in the minds of the people fubfided; and
the miniſtry ſeemed to be more at leifure for attend-
ing to private affairs.
THIS revived my thoughts of forwarding my af-
fairs, by a perfonal follicitation at London. I found
no difficulty in obtaining the uſual permiffion, and had
the pleaſure of performing the journey in company
with Mr. Brookes, whom bufinefs called to that capital,
where we arrived on the 12th of April.
On my firſt attendance at the office for prifoners
ON
of war, an order was fhewn me from my lord Har-
rington, fecretary of ftate, for bringing me to his
houfe. This nobleman having been ambaffador for
fome years in Spain, among his other eminent quali-
ties had a great affection for the Spaniards, which he
was pleaſed to extend to me in a moft obliging recep-
tion and affurances, that nothing fhould be wanting
in him to procure me my papers, or do me any other
good offices.
Martin Folkes, Efq; prefident of the royal fociety
of London, a perfon equally diſtinguiſhed for his
learning, politeness and readineſs to do every good ac-
tion in his power, being informed 1 was a prifoner at
Fareham, and that my papers were lodged at the ad-
miralty; and fearing they might fall into the hands
of perfons entirely ignorant of their contents, and by
that means be miſlaid or abuſed, had applied for
having them delivered to him, alledging, that as
the ſubject of them related to the fciences, none
could be fitter for them than the fociety. But as
they were unhappily mingled with many others of a
very different kind taken at the fame time, it was
difficult to ſeparate them without the prefence of the
author himſelf, to diſtinguiſh them by the hand and
other marks. By his affiftance and the alacrity of
Mr. Brookes, who was determined not to give him-
Dd 4
felf
408
A VOYAGE ΤΟ Book III.
t
felf any reft till the affair was ended to my fatisfac-
tion, an order of the admiralty was obtained to the
fecretary of the India company, to whom they had
all been fent, that I might make a fearch for them,
and thoſe which 1 fhould feparate were to be fent to
the admiralty. This order met with fuch a punctual
compliance, that it was executed the very day of its
date.
THE prefident of the Royal fociety, for whom
all the lords of the admiralty entertained an efteem
fuitable to his great merit, was again pleafed to inte-
reft himſelf in behalf of my papers; and in regard to
his follicitations the examination of them was referred
to him. This gentleman, who poffeffed in the higheſt
degree all the focial and intellectual qualities, affabi-
lity without artifice, of a genius which nothing could
efcape, and an amiable deportment, and generous
manners, had from my first arrival fhewn me great
kindness; he introduced me to the meetings of the
fociety and thus to him I owe the acquaintance
of many perfons of diftinction, and the marks of
friendſhip I received from them. He condefcended
to carry me to the moſt famous mufæums, places
of delight to a rational curioſity, where all nature is
collected into a living hiſtory of the feveral products
of the waters and earth, both in the mineral, vege-
table and animal kingdoms. He further brought me
acquainted with feveral of the moſt diftinguiſhed li-
terati: and carried his friendship very far beyond any
thing I could have expected.
THE recommendation of fo diftinguiſhed a perfon,
to whofe judgment fo much deference was paid in
all things, together with the honour of having been
one of the two appointed for meafuring the degrees
of the earth in Peru, had fuch an influence on the
patrons of fcience, that I fhould wrong them did I
hot acknowledge, that I chiefly owe to them, the
haj p nefs of recovering my papers, my liberty, and
the
CH. IX. SOUTH AMERICA.
409
the polite treatment feveral perfons of rank and qua-
lity were pleaſed to ſhew me.
ACTIONS like theſe convinced me of the fincerity
of the English, their candor, their benevolence and
difintereſted complaifance. I obferved the tempers,
inclinations, particular cuſtoms, government, confti-
tution and policy of this praife-worthy nation, which,
in its œconomical conduct and focial virtues, may be
a pattern to thoſe who boaſt of fuperior talents, to all
the rest of mankind.
争
​MR. Folkes having gone thro' my papers, made
his report to the admiralty; and fo much in my
favour, that did I infert it here, it would be the
moſt honourable teftimonial of our work; and that
board being thoroughly fatisfied, gave him leave,
according to his defire, to deliver them up to me;
which he did on the 25th of May. But as a more
illuftrious teftimony of the great efteem with which
he honoured me, he propofed to Earl Stanhope and ſe-
veral other gentlemen of the Royal Society, that I
might be admitted a member of that learned body,
rightly judging that fuch an honour could not fail
of adding an ardour to my deſire of contributing to
the improvement of the ſciences. Having thus hap-
pily finiſhed my affairs, and obtained my liberty at
the first follicitation for it, I embarked at Falmouth
in the Lifbon packet-boat; my predominant incli-
nation now being to fee my native country, after
fuch a variety of adventures. On my fafe arrival
at Liſbon, I haftened to Madrid which I reached
on the 25th of July 1746; eleven years and two
months after my embarkation at Cadiz on this com-
miffion.
I found Spain in mourning for the lofs of its
late excellent fovereign Philip V. who had paffed to a
better ſtate, on the 9th of the fame month. My
firſt care was to wait upon the marquis de la Enfe-
nada,
410
BOOK III.
A VOYAGE, &c.
nada, ſecretary of state, with my papers; that he
might lay them before his majefty, whom God long
preferve. His majefty was pleafed to order that theſe
papers fhould be publifhed under his patronage: a
declaration truly becoming a prince, who, to all the
eftimable qualities of a king and a man, added a love
for the ſciences.
THUS have we concluded a work, which has been
long expected by all nations; its importance en-
titled it to the encouragement of the greatest
monarchs: and the length of time employed in it,
long kept in an impatient fufpenfe, the learned of
Europe.
FINIS
INDE X.
A.
ABYSSES, frightful ones,
Vol. 1. 207
Vol. 2. 264
Vol. 1. 269
Vol. 2. 140
Andes, defcribed
Andaguales, jurifdiction of,
Vol. 2. 125
Vol. 1. 130
Angaraes, jurifdiction of, Vol. 2.
127
Aconcagua,
Adobes, what
Aji, deſcribed
Adventures, pleaſant Vol.1.232
Aguacate, deſcribed Vol. 1. 301
Alaufi, affiento of, Vol.1. 334
Alligators, defcribed Vol. 1. 194
manner of laying eggs 195
take little care of their
ibid.
Anfon, lord, takes Paita Vol. 2,
198
a fhort account of his
202
voyage
Antin, the marquis de, taken by
the Engliſh
Vol. 2.333
Antonio San,
mountain of
fish
young
their number, how dimi-
niſhed
deſtroy great quantities of
ibid.
Vol. 1. 217
Apolo bamba,
miffions of Vol.
196
2. 136
Aporama, a famous
gold mine,
Vol. 2. 135
devour calves, colts, &c.
Arauco, Indians of
Vol. 2. 274
197
ibid.
Archidoná, city of
Arequipa, city of deſcribed Vol.
Vol.1. 369
their great voracity
—often fatal to the human
pecies
how catched
ibid.
ibid.
Alparupaſca, ſignal on, Vol. 1.
244
Amancaes, mountain of, its
height
Vol. 2. 31
Amatope, town of, defcribed,
Vol. 2.7
Amazons, account of Vol. 1.393
river of, deſcribed Vol. 1.
380
Amparaes, juriſdiction of Vol. 2.
150
Amula, fignal on Vol. 1. 261
Amufements of Carthagena Vol.
1.39
Ananas, common at Carthagena
Vol. 1. 71
defcribed
dimenfions of
ibid.
72
Anchovies, great plenty of
2.136
diocefs of 138
Arica, juridiction of Vol. 2. 140
Armadillo, deſcribed Vol. 1. 54
Afangaro, jurifdiction of Vol. 2.
•
135
Afilo, jurifdiction of Vol. 2.135
Affes, wild, account of Vol. 1.
316
Affiento, its import Vol. 1. 322
Afuay, defert of defcribed Vol.
1.44
Ata-Hualpa, king of Quito Vol.
I. 264
puts his brother to death
265
put to death by Pizarro
ibid.
Atacama, government of, de-
Vol.1.302
fcribed
jurifdiction of Vol. 2. 155
Atua
...
Vol. 2. 104
+
INDE X.
Atun-canar, defcribed Vol. 1.
Avancay, jurifdiction of Vol. 2.
136
335
Audience of Panama Vol. 1.
of Quito
Vol. 1.272
130
Vol. 2. 163
Biobio river of
Birds near Carthagena Vol. I.
56
vaft flights of Vol. 2. 104
Vol. 2. 20
Biru, town of
Boca chica, deſcribed Vol.1.22 -
Bongos, a fort of veffel Vol. 1.
of Lima
Avila, city of
Vol. 2.43
Vol.1. 370
108
Vol. 1.483
ibid.
Axes, copper ones
of flint
Aymaraes, jurifdiction of Vol. 2.
B.
134
Bofton, account of Vol. 2. 380
Bridges, how conſtructed Vol. 1.
449
Bridge, a famous one over the
Defaguadero Vol. 2. 162
Bannos, los, fignal on, Vol. 1. 263
Borma, fignal on
Vol. 1. 243
Baba, diſtrict of
Vol. 1. 181
town of
ibid.
Brifas, what
Vol. 1.85
river of
ibid.
Buenos Ayres deſcribed Vol. 2.
its courſe altered
182
Baeza, town of
Vol. 1.369
- Bagre, a fiſh
Vol. 1. 194
Balza, deſcribed
Vol. 1. 189
wood uſed in building it
Bueran, fignal on
Building, how performed near
Guayaquil Vol. 1. 187
184
Vol. 1. 242
how managed
how fteered
Vol. 1. 193
Banana, deſcribed
Vol. 1.72
C.
ibid.
192
Bannos, village of Vol. 1. 443
Bulgados, defcribed Vol. 2. 251
Burials at CarthagenaVol. 1. 39
at Quito Vol. 1. 289
Butterflies of Carthagena Vol. I.
62
Barber an Indian, defcribed Vol. Cacao, common at Carthagena
1.280
Bafe for the feries of triangles,
how meaſured
Baftimentos, what
Bats of Carthagena,
Vol. 1. 219
Vol. 1.96
defcribed
Vol. 1. 58
defcribed
Vol. 1. 26
Bay of Manta
Vol. 1. 174
Bay of Conception defcribed
Vol. 2. 246
Beafts, how flaughter'd in Chili
Vol. 2. 241
Bejuco, fnake deſcribed Vol. 1.
59
Vol. 1. 217
Bethlehem, order of our lady of,
when founded Vol. 1. 271
great probity of the fa-
Bay of Carthagena,
thers
plant
•
278
of
Vol. 1. 38
at Guayaquil Vol. 1. 182
plantations, great numbers
Vol. 1. ibid.
I.
tree deſcribed Vol. 1. 182
fruit of, how cured 183
foil proper for
184
manner of cultivating ibid.
Colcagua
Vol. 2. 264
Calagula defcribed Vol. 1.454
Calcaylares, jurifdiction of Vol.
2.133
Caldera, in Porto Bello harbour
Cali, town of
Callao, terrible
Vol. 1.90
Vol. 1.351
earthquake at
Vol. 2.82
Callao, a palace
of the Yncas
Vol. 1. 214
another
INDE X.
1
another
Vol. 1.487 Carguairafo, mountain Vol. 1.
Caloto bells, their origin Vol. 1.
358
Calves, frozen ones Vol. 2. 103
Caluma, account of Vol. 1, 174
temperature of Vol. 1. 205
Camana, juriſdiction of Vol. 2.
138
Vol. 2. 173
Camea, defcribed Vol. 1. 303
Camini, herb
Canals, great benefit of, in Peru
214
eruption of Vol. 1.
324
Carthagena, deſcribed Vol. 1.
21
diſcovered, by whom ibid.
advantageoufly fituated
often taken
Vol. 2. 28
Canas, or Canes deſcribed Vol.
1.216
wonderful phenomena of
ibid.
Calaguala, defcribed Vol. 1.
454
Chancay, extraordinary manure
ufed in that jurifdiction Vol.
2.98
Canches, jurifdiction of Vol. 2.
133
Vol. 1.361
Cancla, or cinnamon tree de-
ſcribed
Canete, town of
Vol. 2.115
Canta, juriſdiction of Vol. 2. 115
Campanario, fignal on Vol. 1.245
Cape Horn, paffage round de-
fcribed
Vol. 2. 296
remarks on the currents
near
Vol. 2. 306
Capiro, a celebrated mountain
Capiſayo, what
Vol. 1. 91
Vol. 1. 280
Carabaya, jurifdiction of Vol. 2.
135
famous for gold mines
ibid.
Carabura, fignal on Vol. 1. 236
Caracol, account of Vol. 1. 180
Caracol folhado, defcribed Vol.
1.61
152
Carangas, juriſdiction of Vol. 2.
153
Cargadores, who ſo called Vol.1.
mines of
79
fortifications of
ibid.
22
23
houſes, churches, &c. 24
extent of its juriſdiction 25
bay of deſcribed
26
account of its inhabitants
29
fes
drefs of the different claf-
32
genius of the natives 33
cuſtoms of the inhabitants
37
39
42
amufements at
burials how performed ibid.
climate of
diftempers, common at 47
country about, defcribed
ibid.
trees of different kinds 49
vegetables in the neigh-
bourhood of
beaſts, reptiles, infects,&c.
50
52
provifions uſed by the in-
habitants
68
try
great fertility of the coun-
trade of
69
78
80
82
fair of
revenues of
Cafcabele, defcribed Vol. 1.
Caſcade, a beautiful one Vol. 1.
59
205
Cafcarilla, defcribed Vol. 1. 340
Cafms, large ones left by earth-
qnakes
Cafonate, what
Vol. 2. 87
Vol. 1. 197
Caffavz
IN D E X.
Caffava bread, what Vol. 1. 68
Caftro Virreyna, jurifdiction of
Vol. 2. 127
Cafts, or tribes, what Vol. 1. 29
Caxa mines, what Vol. 1. 470
Caxamarca, juriſd. of Vol. z.
121
Caxamarquilla, juriſd. of Vol. 2.
122
Caxatambo, jurifdict. of Vol. 2.
117
Cayambe, plain of Vol. 1. 227
village of Vol. 1. 220
Cayamburo, mountain of Vol. 1.
319
Vol. 1. 445
Cedar tree, defcribed Vol. 1. 48
Ceremonies at the public en-
trance of the viceroy Vol. 2.
46
Ceibo wooll, defcribed Vol. 1.
199
Vol. 1.303
Chica, defcribed
Chicas, jurifdiction of Vol. 2.
149
Vol. 2. 271
Chilan
Chili, great fertility of Vol. 2.
240
part of the kingdom of,
Vol. 2. 258
defcribed
when conquered
ibid.
260
commerce of Vol. 2. 268
―― governments in
mines of
277
Chiloas, jurifdiction of Vol. 2.
122'
Chiloe, account of Vol. 2. 262
Chilques, juriſdiction of Vol. z.
133
Chimbadores, who Vol. 2. 21
Chimbo, juriſdiction of Vol. 1.
Chimborazo, defert of
331
Vol. 1.
213
Chachapayas, jurifdiction of
Vol. 2.121
mountain of, Vol. 1.
Chagre, river defcribed Vol. 1.
443
Vol. 1. 244
Chinan, fignal on
Chincoulagua, fignal on Vol. r.
249
-mountain of Vol. 1.445
Chiquitos, miffions of
1
Vol. z.
164
Vol. I.
300
106
fort of
107
prodigious trees on its
banks
108
taken by Morgan 113
Chalapu, fignal on Vol. 1. 240
Chancay, town of, defcribed
Vol. 2. 26
Changalli, fignal on Vol.1.237
Chapotonada, what Vol. 1. 42
Chapetones, who Vol. 1.29
Characters of ſeveral Engliſh-
men
Vol. 2. 415 feq.
Charcas province of Vol. 2. 141
Chatas, a fort of veffel Vol.
I 108
Chayanta, province of Vol, 2.
151
Chicha, what Vol. 1. 279
Chichichoco, fignal on Vol. 1.
240
Ciacica, province of Vol. 2.
155
Chirimoya, defcribed
Chocope, town of Vol. 2. 18
a remarkable occurrence
ibid.
there
obfervations of a furpri
Vol. 2.74
Vol. 1. 305
Vol. 1. 212
zing rain there
Chogllos, what
Cholos, what
Chorrera, what fo called Vol. i.
205
Chriftopher St. mountain of, its
height
Vol. 2. 31.
Chucha, defcribed Vol. 1. 241
Chucuito, jurifdiction of Vol. 2.
160
Chu
&
INDE X.
Chuchanga, town of Vol. 1.377
Chulapu, fignal on Vol. 1. 249
Churches of Lima, their afto-
niſhing riches
Vol. 2. 38
Coquimbo, town of, deſcribed
Vol. 2.265
Coral ſnake, deſcribed Vol. 1.
59
Chufay, fignal on Vol. 1. 242
Coca, a plant, defcribed Vol. 1.
Corazon, fignal on
Cordova, city of
Vol. 1. 239
Vol. 2. 167
362
Corientes, city of
Vol. 2. 186
Cochabamba, province of Vol. 2.
Cofin, fignal on
Vel. 1. 245
151
Catopaxi, fignal on
terrible
Vol 1.238
eruption of
Vol. 1. 324
Vol. 1. 224
Cochineal, account of the breed-
ing of
Vol. 1. 341
Coco nut, common near Car-
thagena
Vol. 1.74
deſcription of 75
Cod-fifhery, account of Vol. 2.
405
Colta lake of Vol. 1. 326
Comegan, an infect, defcribed
Vol. 1. 66
Commerce of Carthagena Vol. 1.
78
of Porto Bello, Vol.1.
ΙΟΙ
Cottage on Pichincha, deſcribed
Couplet M. death of Vol. 1,
220
Cow, fea, defcribed Vol.1.414
Coya, or Coyba, a remarkable
infect, deſcribed Vol. 1. 360
Cruz de Canos, temperature of
Vol. 1. 212
Cuença, fignal on the church of
Vol. 1. 244
city of, deſcribed Vol.r.
of Panama Vol. 1.
332
124
of Guayaquil Vol. 1.
Cuichoca, lake of
Culebrilla, what
Vol... 319
Vol. 1. 46
198
of Quito Vol. 1. 307
of Lima Vol. 2. 106
of Chili Vol. 2. 268
Companario, fignal on
Vol. I.
gena.
how cured.
Currents on the coast of Cartha-
Vol. 1. 85
of the Chagre, velocity
ibid.
of
363
Conception, city of, defcribed
Vol. 1. 106
obfervations on Vol. 1.
1.39€
Vol. 2. 232
earthquakes at
233
government of
234
of Guayaquil river Vol.
1.186
a prodigious one Vol.1.
Lima
drefs of the inhabitants
bay of, defcribed
Canclon, deſcribed Vol. 1.457
Cordeſuyos, juriſdiction of Vol.
2.1.39
Condor, deſcribed Vol. 1.455
Contrayerva, deſcribed Vol. í.
Convulfions, fhocking ones at
Cope, a mine of
235
near Cape
389
Horn, cu-
246
rious remarks on
Vol. 2. 306
Cufco, diocefe of
Vol. 2. 128
city of defcribed
ibid.
temple of
129.
ruins of a famous fort
ibid.
455
cathedral of
130
pariſhes of
130
Vol. 2. 89.
government of
131
Vol. 9
Guyes,
INDE X:
139
D.
Cuyes, what
Vol. 1.319
Caylloma, jurifd. of Vol. 2. 138
famous for filver mines
of the Indian women in
Vol. 2. 13
E.
Earthquakes at Quito Vol. 1. 294
terrible at Latacunga
Valles
Dances of the Indians, Vol. 1.
Vol. 1. 322
275
at Hambato
Vol. 1. 329
at Arequipa
at Santiago
Vol. 2. 137
Vol. 2. 255
Darien, mines of Vol. 1.129
province of, deſcribed
Vol. 1. 135
Daule, lieutenancy of Vol. 1.
184
town and river of 185
Degree, length of, how deter-
mined
Vol. 1. 9
Delivrance, taken by the Eng-
lifh
Vol. 2. 346
Defaguadero, river of Vol. 2.162
ibid.
famous bridge of
Dialects different in Quito Vol.
1. 289
Difeafes common at Porto Bello
Vol. 1. 94
at Carthagena, Vol. 1.45
Vol. 1. 295
Vol. 2. 89
Difpertadores, defcribed Vol. 2.
at Quito
at Lima
242
Doctrina, what
Vol. 1. 135
Dominicos, defcribed Vol. 1.72
Drake, Sir Francis takes Car-
thagena
Vol. 1. 22
Dreſs at Carthagena, Vol. 1. 32
nama
of the inhabitants of Pa-
Vol. 1. 119
at Guayaquil Vol. 1. 166.
of the Spaniards at Quito
Vol. 1. 279
ibid.
Emeralds, their value fallen Vol.
1.78
cut by the ancient In-
Vol. 1. 485
mines of
Vol. 1.494
dians
Eminences, how defcended Vol.
1.209
Entrance public of the viceroy
of Lima deſcribed Vol. 2‹ 46
Eftancia, what
Vol. I. 30
Exchequer of Quito Vol. 1. 272
Expedition to Louiſbourg, ac-
Vol. 2.372
count of
F.
Fair of Carthagena
of Porto Bello,
Vol. 1.80
deſcribed
Vol. 1. 102
Vol. I. 39
reckoned a
Vol. 2. 58
Fandango, what
Feet, fmallneſs of,
beauty at Lima
iſlands of de-
Feralones, what
Fernandes Juan,
Vol. 2. 190
Vol. 2. 217
ſcribed
Fertility of the foil at Quito
Vol. 1. 297
Feftivals, two extraordinary ones
Vol. 1. 275
169.
Fevers at Guayaquil Vol. 1.
Field-tent how pitched Vol. 1.
Vol. 1.
228
of the Meftizos .
of the Indians
of the ladies of the firſt
ibid.
Fiſhery, pearl, defcribed
126
rank
280
of the Meftizo women 281
of the Indian women 281
of the men at Lima Vol. z.
Fiſhing of the Indians deſcribed
Vol. I. 175
at Newfoundland Vol. 2.
401
- of the women
56
on Guayaquil
river de
ibid.
fcribed
Vol. 1. 193
Fogs,
INDE X.
Fog,
a thick one generally at
Lima
Vol. 2. 65
Fogs, common in the South Sea
Vol. 1. 159
Fords, dangerous ones Vol. I.
204
Fortifications, Indian method of
Vol. 1. 491
Fortreffes of the Yncas, Vol. 1.
489
Fox of Carthagena, its artifice
Vol. 1.54
Franciſcans, convent of atQuito,
an elegant piece of architec-
Vol. 1. 268
Francois, cape deſcribed Vol. 2.
357
value of to the French
ibid.
ture
I.
Frutilla, defcribed Vol. 1. 303
Fruits of various kinds in the
country round Carthagena
Vol. 1.70
་
G.
Gallinazo, a bird, deſcribed Vol.
1.57
Gallinazos eat the alligator's
eggs
Vol. 1.196
Gallinazo ftone defcribed Vol. 1.
482
Gamalote, a plant, defcribed
Vol. 1. 181
Garua, what Vol. 2. 69
Geefe, wild, method of taking
Vol. 1.53
Gloria caſtle Vol. 1. 89
Godin, M. chofen profeffor of
mathematics at Lima Vol. 2.
ore
291
Guaca Tambo, deſcribed Vol.
2.23
Vol. 1. 207
Guamac
Guamalies, province of Vol. 2.
119
Guamanga, jurifd. of Vol.2.124
Guamani, fignal on Vol. 1. 247
Guamanga, city of, deſcribed
Vol. 2. 122
Guamanga, juriſdictions in the
dioceſe of
4
124
Guanabana, deſcribed Vol. 1.73
Guanaco, defcribed Vol.1.459
Guanta, jurifdiction of Vol.
2. 124
Guanacauri, fignal on Vol. 1. 244
Guanca-Belica, jurifd. of Vol. 2.
125
Guanoes, birds fo called Vol. 2.
98
J
Guanuco, city of
Guapulo, fignal on
Guaqueros, what
Vol. 2. 117
Vol. 1. 245
Vol. 1. 483
Guaura, town of, defcribed Vol.
2.25
uſed in ſteering balzas,
Vol. 1. 192
what
Guarachiri, jurifdiction of, Vol.
2. 117
Vol. 1. 212
Vol. 2.
Guaranda, manner of entring
Guarico, defcribed
Guarmey, town of
Guafos, their dexterity
356
Vol. 2. 24
Vol. 2.
241
Guayaba, defcribed Vol. 1.73
Guayaquil, defcribed Vol.1.160
cuſtoms and dreſs of the
inhabitants
164
166
temperature of the air at
Gold, how extracted from the
its riches
Vol. 1.472
Vol. I.
300
302
reptiles
Granadilla, deſcribed
•
Guabas, deſcribed Vol. 1.
Guacas, or graves of the antient
Indians, deſcribed Vol. 1.480
near Lima Vol. 2. 100
Vol. 1. 167
ibid.
fnakes and other poiſonous
-prodigious number of in-
fects
diſeaſes at
E e
168
169
pro.
INDE X.
provifions and manner of
Jefuits, their miffions in Para-
living
170
guay defcribed Vol. 2. 169
extent of its jurifd.
173
river of, deſcribed
185
commerce of
198
Guaylas, province of Vol. 2.
119
Guineos, defcribed Vol. 1.72
how eaten
on the fea
-on Guayaquil river Vol. 1.
Illinifa, mountain of, Vol.1.445
Jivicatfu, fignal on,
Indians, their manner of fiſhing
Vol. 1. 175
260
Guinea pepper, defcribed Vol.
2. 140
73
H.
193
their unfaithfulneſs, Vol.
1.226
their drefs Vol. 1. 279
Indians of Quito deſcribed Vol.-
Habilla, at Carthagena defcribed
Hadley's Quadrant,
1.418.
their moderation
420
their remarkable floth 422
their
feafts
423
their
funerals
425
their food
ibid.
their huts
426
Vol. 1. 51
deſcribed
Vol. 1. 145
Hambato, affiento of Vol.1. 329.
Harbour of Porto Bello, defcrib-
ed
Vol. 1.89
Harbour of Panama Vol. 1.116
Hazianda, what
Vol. 1.31
Horn, cape, paffage round Vol.
2. 296
remarks on the currents
near
306
Horfes, American defcribed Vol.
1.464
Houfes, feveral forfaken on ac-
count of the number of Mof-
chitos
Vol. 1. 203
Hueyna-Capac, account of Vol.
1.264
Humming bird, defcribed Vol.
1.458
Hunting, manner of at Quito
Vol. 1.463
Hut at Pichinca, defcribed Vol.
1.224
Hypothefis, a new one to ac-
count for the want of rain in
Peru
Vol. 2.67
for earthquakes
I.
84
Jaen government of Vol.r. 375
Jauxa, jurifd. of Vol. 2. 118
dols of the ancient Indians Vol.
1.484
| | | | | | | | | |
their language Vol. 1.427
their fuperftition
428
their marriages
430
their infenfibility
432
their intrepidity
434
their conftitution
438
their diſeaſes
439
their diverfions
ibid.
ancient, monuments of Vol.
1.479
very ingenious Vol. г. 484
wild, account of Vol. 1.
497
monuments of the ancient
Vol. 2. 100
Arauco, account of Vol. 2.
273
Iguana, an amphibious crea-
ture, deſcribed Vol. I. 121
122:
eaten at Panama ibid.
lays great quantities of
eggs
Inna Quito, plain of Vol. 1. 266
Infeription, an hiftorical one Vol.
Iron caftle
Ica, town of
Iflands of Juan
fcribed
2. 196
Vol. 1.89
Vol. 2. 116.
Fernandes, de-
Vol. 2. 217
Ladies
*
1
INDE X.
L.
dreffes of the lower clafs
62
Ladies of Lima, their dreſs Vol.
2. 56
Lagarto, what
Vol. 1. 198
Lalangufo, ſignal on Vol. 1. 241
Lambayeque, town of Vol. 2.
16
Lampa, jurifd. of Vol. 2. 134
Lana de ceibo, defcribed Vol. 1.
199
Lard, its great ufe at Cartha-
Vol. 1.77
gena
Laricaxas, jurifd. of Vol. 2. 159
famous gold mine of 160
Latacunga, affiento of Vol. 1.
Leprofy, common at Cartha-
temperature of the air 64
feafons, how divided at
ibid.
Lima, never rains there, and why
67
not ſubject to tempefts 77
inconveniences of
earthquakes at
7.8
79
diftempers at Vol. 2.89
foil of, vitiated by an earth-
-
94
quake
monuments of antiquity
near
100
different kind of provifions
102
trade and commerce of
лоб
extent of its juriſdiction
322
Lavadero, famous one Vol. 2.
at
what
135
Vol. 2. 270
gena
Vol. 1. 44
Lima, city of defcribed Vol. 2.
Limes defcribed
29
how uſed
when founded
30
name, whence
ibid.
delightful fituation of ibid.
river of
Limpie pongo, fignal on Vol.1.
248
Lions, fea, defcribed Vol. 2.222
Lipes, juriſd. of
112
Vol. I.
75
76
31
Vol. 2. 149
grand fquare of
ibid.
mines of
ibid.
dimenſions of
33
Limpion, what
Vol. 2. 108
difpofition of the ftreets,
Llama, deſcribed
Vol. I. 459
&c.
ibid.
Llulla, jurifd. of
Vol. 2. 121
houſes, how built
33
Log-line, error in
marking it
its pariſhes
34
Vol. 1.9
convents, &c,
35
Loja, jurifd. of
Vol. I. 339
hofpitals
36
city of
ibid.
churches
38
power of the Vice-roy of
Longitude, how found,
variation
by the
Vol. 1. 14
40
of Panama,
how deter-
tribunals of
42
mined
Vol. I. III
how governed
43
Louis Erafme, taken
by the En-
Univerſity, colleges of 44
public entrance of the vice-
gliſh
Louifbourg, in cape
Vol. 2. 333
Breton de-
roy
46
fcribed
Vol. 2. 363
52
54
inhabitants of
commerce of
drefs of the inhabitants 56
number of ornaments,
worn by the ladies of Lima
59
inhabitants of
account of its being taken
by the English
Lucanas, juriſd. of Vol. 2.
Ee 2
372
127
Lunar
367
INDE X.
=
}
267
trade
their drefs Vol.1.279
Micos, a ſmall ſpecies of mon-
keys
Lunar rainbow
Vol. 1.62
M.
Mellizos apply themfelves to
Vol. 1. 278
Machangara, river
of Vol. 1.
Macas, diftri&t of
Vol. 1. 372
Vol. 1. 178
Vol. 1. 384
of that ri-
painter
Machala, town of
Madera, river of
Magdalena, fources
ver
. Vol. 1. 352
Maize how prepared by the In-
dians
Vol. 1. 303
Matapalo, deſcribed Vol. 1. 218
Mal de Valle, what Vol.1. 295
Mamarumi, cafcade at Vol. I.
205
Mameis, deſcribed Vol. 1.74
Mancora, breach of Vol. 2. 8
Mangrove tree, defcribed Vol.
1.179
ufe of its wood
Mani, a fruit deſcribed
ibid.
Vol. 1.
76
Vol. 1. 128
Manta, a fifh of an enormous
fize deſcribed
Manta, bay of
Vol. 1. 174
Manure, an extraordinary kind
Vol. 2.98
Manzanillo, deſcribed Vol. 1.
48
Maranon river, defcribed Vol.1.
381
Marimondas, a large fpecie of
monkey, defcribed Vol. I.
215
Marquis d'Antin taken by the
English
Vol. 2. 333.
Mofque Pacona, province of
Vol. 2. 164
Mafques, jurifdiction of Vol. 2.
Vol.1.54
Miguel de Santiago, a famous,
Vol. 1. 278
(fan) de Ibarra defcribed
Vol. 1. 314
Vol. 1. 239
Milin, fignal on
Mines in the kingdom of Terra
Firma
Vol. 1. 129
||
in the province of Quito
Vol. 1. 469
in Popayan Vol.1. ibid.
in the governments of
Quijos and Macas Vol.1. 477
of Quickfilver Vol. 1. 478
of fulphur Vol. 1.495
of quickfilver in Peru Vol.
2. 125
of gold, famous ones Vol.
2.135
of filver, in Caylloma Vol.
2. 139
of Potofi, how difcovered,
Vol. 2. 145.
prodigious richneſs of 146
quantity of filver taken
out of
of Porco
of Lipes
of Oruro
of Carangas
of Pacajes
148
Vol. 2.149
of gold, famous Vol. 2.160
Miffions of Apolo-bamba Vol..
ibid.
Vol. 2. 159
Vol. 2. 152.
Vol. 2. 159:
of Chili
Mira, fignal on
Mirrours of ftone
Vol. 2. 269.
Vol. 1. 245
Vol. 1. 48.2.
133
Vol. 1.286
2. 136
of Paraguay,
defcribed
Vol. 2. 169.
380
how fettled
170.
Meli illa
Vol. 2. 264
inhabitants of
171.
Meitos, who
Vol. 1.277
temperature of the air 172,
products of
173
Miffions,
Mate, what
Materials uſed in building near
Guayaquil
Vol. 1, 187
Maynas, government of Vol. 1.
of Chiquitos Vol. 2. 164
1
INDE X.
1
Miffions, how governed
174 Mulmul, fignal on Vol. 1. 240
churches of
175
N.
manufactures of
prieſts of
177
Napo, river of
Vol. 1. 385
178
manners of the inhabi-
Naranjal, town of Vol. 1. 178
Newfoundland, account of Vol.
tants
181
policy of the jefuits
ibid.
1. 109
on the Maranon Vol.1.
409
Mocha, temperature of Vol. 1.
213
Monkeys, of various kinds Vol.
Monquegua, jurifd. of Vol. 2.
Monfefu, town of Vol. 2. 17
Monte Chrifto, town of Vol. 1.
174
139
Monte Video, city of Vol. 2.186
Monuments of the ancient Indi-
ans
ma
Vol 1.479
of antiquity near Li-
Vol. 2.100
Mopa-mopa, deſcribed Vol. 1.
362
Morgan, John, takes Porto-bello
there
2. 391
manner of fiſhing
395.
Nigua, a furprizing infect, de-´
Vol.1.63
ſcribed
fleſh
very troubleſome ibid."
how taken out of the
kinds of it
Noiſes fubterranean,
Nomarelte, fignal on
64
65
whence
Vol. 2. 87
Vol. I.
263
Nombre de Dios, when founded.
Vol. 1. 86
Vol. 1. 342
Nopal, deſcribed
Norona, Fernando de, iſland of
deſcribed
Vol. 2. 317
ſtrongly fortified
320
O..
Vol. 1. 86
Oca, defcribed
Olive plantations
Omaguas Indians,
cuftoms
Vol. 1. 303
I.
Vol. 2.94
their odd
Vol. 1.412
takes Panama Vol. 1.
Morrope, town of
113
Vol. 2. 16
Mofchitos at Carthagena Vol.1.
62
different fpecies of ibid.
their tortures Vol. 1.
202
Moths at Carthagena, their ſur-
Omaſuyos, juriſd. of Vol. 2. 159
Oruro, jurifdiction of Vol. 2.
mines of
150
ibid.
Otabalo, deſcribed Vol. 1. 318 ·
Oyambaro, fignal on
Vol. 1.
236
;
prizing voracity Vol. 1.66 Oyſters, excellent ones Vol. 1.
Motives for the voyage to South
produce pearls
117
ibid.
America
Mountain, an artificial one Vol.
1.489
Muca muca, defcribed Vol. I.
460
Mulattoes, how diftinguished
Vol. 1.286
Vol. I. I
Mules, a furprizing inſtance of
their fagacity
P.
Pablo (San) lake of Vol. 1.319
Pacaes, defcribed Vol. 1.
1.302
Pacajes, juriſdiction of Vol. 2.
mine of
Vol. 1. 219
Ee 3
159
ibid.
Paccha,
INDE X.
Faccha, what fo called Vol. 1. Paraguay, government of, de
205
Pacific, why the fouth fea, called
by that name Vol. 2. 211
Pajara Nino, defcribed Vol. 2.
253
Painting practifed at Quito Vol.
1.278
Paita, courſe ſteered from Callao
Vol. 3. 191
↓
to
town of, deſcribed Vol. 2.
193
taken by the Engliſh 198
Palace of the Yncas, defcribed
. Vol. 1.487
another 489
Palm trees, deſcribed Vol. 1. 49
Palos, herb, defcribed Vol. 2.
fcribed
hiſtory of
Paraguay, towns of
miffions of
Vol. 2. 168
ibid.
169
ibid.
herb deſcribed
172
Vol. 1.441
Vol. 2. 151
Vol. 2. 162
Vol.2.127
Vol. 2. 8
Vol. 1. 273
Vol. 2. 151
}
Paramo, what
Paria, province of
Paria, lake of
Parina Cocha, jurifd.of
Parinnas, breach of
Parties at Quito
Pafpaya, jurifd. of
Paffage between Callao and Paita
Vol. 2. 191
Patavirca, town of,
defcribed
173
Pataz, jurifd. of
Paucartambo, jurifd.
Vol. 2. 24
Vol. 2. 122
of Vol. 2.
Pambamarca, fignal on Vol. 1.
132
237
Panama, deſcription of Vol. 1.
Payjan, town of
Pax la, city of
Vol. 2. 17
Vol. 2. 156
III
burnt by John Morgan
-magnitude of
157
prodigious lump of gold
113
found at
158
rebuilt -
114
totally deftroyed by fire
115
ibid.
118
government of 116
harbour of
climate of
ibid.
Pearl fishery defcribed Vol. 1.
jurifdiction of
126.
drefs of the inhabitants
Peaſants of Chili, their remark-
able dexterity Vol. 2. 236
Peckugueros, what Vol. 1. 296
Pedro St. town of
Vol. 2. 17
119
Penfylvania, account of Vol. 2.
trade of
124
383
mings in its neighbour- Perico ligero, a remarkable ani-
128 mal defcribed Vol. 2.98
Petrifactions, remarkable ones
defcribed
hood
extent of its
audience
1
139
province of, defcribed
Vol. 1. 131
Panecillo, defcribed Vol.1. 267
Papa-urco, fignal on Vol. 1.239
Papas, defcribed Vol. I. 303
of filver, what Vol. 2. 152
how form'd ibid.
magnitude of 159
Papayas, deſcribed Vol. 1.73
Pucaguaico, fignal on Vol. 1.
238
Vol. 1.495
attempt to explain that
tranfmutation
ibid.
Phænomena, curious ones, ob-
ſerved in the defarts Vol. 1
461
Picaflores defcribed Vol. I. 458
Pichinca, great cold of Vol. 1.
height of
222
ibid.
Pichincas
INDE X.
Pichinca, difficulty of afcending
222
ſtrange manner of living
government' of, defcribed
Vol. 1.350
on
226
abounds in gold' mínes,
Vol. 1. 463
Pichincha, commonly hid in
Porco, jurifd. of
Vol. 2.149
clouds
Vol. 1. 229
violence of the winds on
mines of
bid.
Porto Bello, when diſcovered
ibid.
common food there 225
defcribed
Vol. 1. 86
87
time spent on
226
fuburb of called Guinea
fignal on
236
88
famous for its riches and
harbour of deſcribed 89
great height
265
fortifications of ibid.
eruptions of
267
mountain near 91
Pignas, what
Pie de Burro, deſcribed Vol. 2.
Pilaya, jurifdict. of Vol. 2. 151
Pillachiquir, fignal on Vol. 1.
244
Pine-apple at Carthagena de-
fcribed
Pifco, town of Vol. 2. 116
climate of
ibid.
251
beafts never procreate
Vol. 2.117
there
92
violent tempefts at 93
difeafes of
94-
inhabitants of deſcribed
96
Vol. I. 71
provifions ſcarce there
97
費
​Piura, city of, defcribed Vol. 2.
waters of, pernicious
10
ibid.
Plain of Yaruqui defcribed Vol.
1.219
of Cayambe Vol. 1. 220
of Turu-bamba
hood of
forefts in the neighbour-
ibid.
animals in the woods
Vol. 1.
98
266
ferpents of deſcribed 99
of Inna Quito
ibid.
Plata, Archbishopric of, Vol. 2.
trade of
fair of
ΙΟΙ
102
141
Potofi, town of
Vol. 2. 145
city of, deſcribed
143
famous
mountain and
cathedral of
ibid.
mines of
ibid.
tribunals of
144
Preacher, a bird, deſcribed Vol
jurifdictions of
145
river of, its ufe
Platanos, what
Poetical conteſt, what
Vol. 2.
Precipices, frightful ones Vol.1.
1.55
164
208
Vol. 2. 22
manner of defcending
Vol 2.
ibid.
Pointis, M. de takes
gena
Pollera, what
50
Cartha-
Vol. 1.2z
Vol. 1. 33
Pomallacta, fortrefs of Vol. 1.
491
Premadillas, what Vol. 1. 119
Pronunciation, fingular in Ame-
rica
Vol. 1.319
í.
Profpecs, elegant ones Vol. 1.
Pacara, what
109
Vol. 1.212
Popayan, city of Vol. 1.352
Pychugchứ
INDE X.
Püchugchu defcribed Vol. 1. Quito, hofpitals
271
453
courts of juftice
272
Puero, what
Vol. 1..189-
corporation
273
Pugin,, fignal on
Vol. 1. 244
chapter of the cathedral
Pulizones, who
Vol. 1.
· 1.35
274
Puna, iſland of, defcribed Vol. 1....
full of people
276
178
Pucaguáico, fignal on
238
277
dreffes ufed at
279.
3
163
لم
public ſchools
283
employment of the inha--
bitants
284.
ibid.
entertainments at 285
--burials, how performed at
}
Puno, town of defcribed Vol. 2..
Purple, the ancient, how ex-
tracted
Vol. i. 176
fish that produces it de-
ſcribed
Q.
Quadrant, Hadley's, defcribed
Vol. 1. 145
Quarries of ſtone, different ones
Vol. I.
493
Quebrantahueffas, deſcribed Vol.
2 214
Quickfilver, mines of. Vol. 1.
•
}
477
in Peru Vol. 2. 125
Quilotta
Vol. 2. 264
Quinoa, a grain, deſcribed Vol.
1.395
262
339
Quinoaloma, fignal on Vol. 1.
Quinquina, account of Vol. 1.
Quifpicanchi, government of
Vol. 2.132
Quito, city of, its foundation
Vol. 1. 264
made a kingdom
fituation of
defcribed
clafs of the inhabitants
289
temperature of the air at
291
food of the inhabitants 297
commerce of
307
314
province of deſcribed 310
jurifdictions of
Quixos, government of Vol. 1.
R.
-
368.
Raft, fee Balza
Vol. 1. 190
Rain, why none in Peru Vol 2.
67
Rainbow, a lunar one Vol. 1...
361
Raneagua, country of Vol 2.
Rancherias, what
Rafpaduras, what
Rats numerous at
264.
Vol. 1. 132
Vol. 1.306
Guayaquil
Vol. 1. 168.
Vol. 1.
59 ·
ibid. Rattle-fnake defcribed
265
ibid. Riobamba defcribed Vol. 1.
how fupplied with water
principal fquare of de-
fcribed
11
268
325
267 River of Guayaquil
deſcribed
Vol. 1. 185.
how far navigable
ibid.
of the Amazons Vol.
.380
its houfes defcribed ibid.
divided into pariſhes 268
churches of
271
its convents, nunneries, &c Rivers, how paffed: Vol. 1. 450
.270
Road
INDE X.
207
Roads near Guayaquil, danger-
Road from Caracol to Ojibar
defcribed
Vol. 1. 204
a terrible one Vol. I.
tants
cuftoms of the inhabi-
tribunals of
256
ibid.
Vol. 1.74
Sapatoes deſcribed
Scolependra, account of Vol. 1.
60
ous
neglected
Vol. 1. 211
Vol. 1. 194
Scorpion deſcribed
Vol. 1.60
kills itfelf
61
Sea-cow defcribed
Vol. 1.413
·
Vol. 2. z 20
fhamefully
Robalo, a fiſh
Vol. 1. 160
Robberies unknown in Peru
Vol. 1.45
Ruins of a famous fort Vol. 2.
12
Ruins of a palace of the Yncas
Vol. 1.213
•
of ſeveral of the ancient
Indians
Vol. 1. 487
Rumi-bamba, what Vol. 1. 267
S.
Salta de Tumbez defcr Vol. 2. 4
de Frayle defcr. Vol. 2. 24
Sangagua, what Vol. 1. 269
Sanguay, mountain of Vol. 1.
442
San Miguel de Ibarra defcribed
Vol. 1. 314
Vol. 1. 319
San Pablo, lake of
Santa river, how forded Vol. 2.
21
prodigious current 22
Santa Cruz, province of Vol. 2.
164
city of, defcribed
Vol. 2. 165
government of Vol. 2.
167
166
Sea-lions defcribed Vol. 2.222
Sea-wolves deſcribed
Sechura, town of
defert of
Vol. 2.12
Vol. 2. 15
Senegualap, fignal on Vol. 1. 261
Senfitive plant defcribed Vol. 1.
50
Serpents near Porto-Bello Vol.1.
99
an aſtoniſhing one Vol.1.
Sefgum, fignal on
Sheep, Peruvian,
Shells, large ftrata of
415
Vol. 1.261
deſcribed
Vol. 1. 449
Vol. 2.
250
quarries of, in the
tops of
mountains
251
Shoal, a dangerous one,
Vol. 2.
227
on Pi-
Vol. 1. 227
Vol. I.
Signal, where erected
chincha
on Pambamarca
237
on Tanlagua Vol. 1. ibid.
on Carabara Vol. r. ibid.
on Changalli Vol. 1. ibid.
on Oyambaro Vol. 1.236
on Pucaguaico Vol. 1.238
on Corazon
239
ibid.
on the mountain of Milin
when conquered
extent of
ibid.
Santa Fé, account of
Vol. 2.
on Papa-urco
185
defcribed
Vol. 2.253
vents
Santiago de Nata de los Cavel-
los defcribed Vol. 1. 131
Santiago, city of,
earthquakes at
its churches and con-
on Chichichoco
..255 -on Mulmul
ibid.
gotofin
on the mountain of Ven-
ibid.
on the mountain of Cha-.
254
lapu
240
ibid.
ibid.
Signal
INDE
X.
Signal on Sifa-Pongo
on Lalangufo
241 Signal on the great church of
Cuenca
ibid.
ibid.
on Chufay
242
on Guapulo
263
on Tialoma
ibid.
on Pambamarca
ibid.
on Sinafaguani
262
on Campanario
ibid.
on Bueran
242
on Cuicocha
ibid.
on Yafuay
243
on Mira
ibid.
on Borma
ibid.
Sinafaguan, fignal on
Vol. 1.
on Pugin
244
242
on Pillachiquir
ibid.
Sifa-Pongo, fignal on
Vol. 1.
on Alparupafca
ibid.
241
-on Chinan
ibid.
on Guanacauri
ibid.
ed
Snakes near Carthagena defcrib-
Vol. 1.58
on the great church of
Cuenca
ibid.
245 Snakes near Guayaquil Vol. 1.
ibid.
167
ibid. Soldier Snail defcribed Vol. 1.
61
Sources of the Maranon Vol. 1.
with two heads Vol. 1.
122
on Guapulo
on Campanario
on Cofin
on Mira
ibid.
on each extremity of the
bafe of Yaruqui
246
381
on Pambamarca
ibid.
on the mountain of Tan-
Spaniards ridiculous pride of
Vol. 1.279
lagua
ibid.
their drefs at Quito
on the mountain of Gua-
ibid.
pulo
-on Gumani
ibid.
on Corazon
on Cotapaxi
on Chinchulagaa
on Papa-urco
Vol. 2. 97
defcribed
ibid.
Vol. 1: 303
249
Storax-tree, defcribed Vol. 1.
ibid.
374
Vol. 2.
211
247 Springs very common near Lima
248 Strawberry of Peru,
on the mountain of Milin Storms, terrible ones
ibid.
on Chulapu
ibid.
on Jivigatţu
260
ibid.
on Mulmul
on Guayama
on Amula
how prognofticated Vol.
2.214
Sugar-canes, their quick growth
ibid. at Carthagena Vol. 1.69
261 Sulphur, mines of Vol. 1. 495
ibid. Sun, temple of,
ibid.
its grandeur
Vol. 2. 128
Vol. 1. 338
ibid. Supay-Urco, famous mountain
ibid. of
262 Sures, or fouth winds. Vol. 1.
on Sifa-pongo
on Sefgum
on Senegualap
on Chufay
on Sinafaguan
on Quinoaloma
ibid.
on Yafuay
on Namarelte
on Guanacaúri
ibid.
263
T:
157
ibid. Tables of variation, fee Varia-
111
on los Bonnos
ibid.
tion
Taburones,
1 NDE
X.
Vol.1.127
Taburones, an enormous fish,
defcribed
Talcaguana, port of Vol. 2. 247
Tamarinds defcribed Vol. 1.76
Tanlagua, fignal on Vol. 1. 237
Tarabita, what
Vol. 1. 449
Tarija, jurifdict. of Vol. 2. 149
Tempefts, terrible ones Vol. 1.
93
Temple of the Sun, grandeur of
Vol. 2. 128
an ancient one Vol. 1.
486
Terra Firma, kingdom of, de-
fcribed
Vol. 1. 130
Thread how dyed purple Vol. 1.
176
Tialoma, fignal on Vol. 1. 242
Ticfan, village of Vol. 1. 336
Tides at Porte-Bello Vol. 1.90
regular at Panama Vol. 1.
116
—— in Guayaquil river Vol. I.
178
Totumo, what Vol. 1.286
Trade of Carthagena Vol. 1. 78
of Porto-Bello Vol. 1. 101
Vol. 1. 124
of Panama
of Guayaquil Vol. 1. 198
Vol. 1. 307
of Quito
Vol. 2.53
2.7
of Lima
Travelling, method of Vol. 2.
Travefia, what
Vol. 2. 212
Truxillo, city of
defcribed,
Vol. 2. 19
bishopric of Vol. 2. 120
Tulcar, a bird deſcribed Vol. 1.
55
Tumbez, town of
Vol. 2.5
Tunguragua, mountain
Tura-Bamba, plain of
of Vol.
1. 443
Vol. I.
214
Turbonadoes, what Vol. 2. 208
V.
Valdivia defcribed Vol. 2. 26z
Valles, meaning of that word
Vol. 2.6
Valparaiſo, town of, deſcribed
bay of
Vol. 2. 280
283
Tiempo muerto, what
Vol. I.
81
foreſts of
Variation chart of
Dr. Hadley
Vol. 1. 14
98
Variation, its ufe in
finding the
Vol.I. 16
ibid.
how to be
Tigers common in the
Borto-Bello
Vol. 1.97
manner of killing them
Timber, great quantities of
Vol. 1. 199
Tintoreras, monftrous fish, de-
fcribed
Vol. 1. 127
Tiopullo, plain of Vol. 1. 214
Titi-caca, famous lake of Vol, 2.
160
fpendid temple of
161
Vol. 1.99
Toads, great numbers at Porto-
Bello
Tolo, large fifhery of Vol. 2.
156
Tolu, balfam of Vol. 1.48
Tomina, juriſdiction of Vol. 2.
148
Tooth-ach, a ſtrangeremedy for
Vol 2, 324.
longitude
Variations, tables of
obſerved
Vol. 1. 17
a table of, obſerved
in the fouth-fea Vol. 1. 143
a table of Vol. 2. 229
table of Vol. 2. 314
table of
Vol. 2. 341
343
table of
Vendabales, what
Vengotafin, fignal on
Vol. 2. 355
Vol. 1.88
Vol. I.
239
Veraguas, province of, defcri-
bed
Vol. 1. 134
Vernon takes Porto-Bello Vol.1.
89
Vice-
INDE X.
Vol. I.
295
Vicuna, deſcribed Vol 1.459
Vijahua, defcribed Vol. 1. 217
Ujiba, account of Vol. 1. 180
Virgin, two miraculous images
Vol. 1.276
Vice-roy of Lima,' his power
trance deſcribed
Vicho, what
Vol. 2.40
his public en-
Vol. 2. 46
tween Carthagena and Porto
Vol. 1.84
Bello
violent ones Vol. 1. 224
in the fouth-feas, obſer·
Vol. 2. 27
vations on
Wolves, fea, deſcribed Vol. 2.
220
Y.
Yaguache, lieutenancy of Vol. 1.
of
Univerfity of Quito, account of
Vol. 1. 270
of Lima Vol. 2. 44
of Cuſco Vol. 2. 132
Volcanoes, how formed Vol 2.
85
new ones, Vol. 2. 84
Yaguoche, town of
Yagarchoca, lake of
Yerva de Gallo, or cocks herb,
a fabulous account of Vol. 1.
Yaraqui, plain of
12'3
180
ibid.
Vol. 1.
315
Vol. 1. 219
Vomito Prieto, or black vomit
fignals at
Vol. 2 146
Vol. 1.44
Yufuay, ſignal on
Vol. 1. 243
W.
Yauyos, palace of,
defcribed
Water a remarkable tract of
Vol. 1. 487
Vol. 1 14
another
50%
Whirlwinds,
dreadful ones
Vol 1 249
Z.
Wild Indians, account of Vol.1. Zumbador, deſcribed
Winds generally prevailing be-
Vol. 1.
497
457
&
FINI S.
ARTES
LIBRARY
18371
SCIENTIA
VERITAS OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
E-FLUMBUS UNDA
TUEBOR
SQUAERIS PENINSULAM AMOENAMY
CIRCUMSPICE