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OUTLINES OF INSTRUCTION IN THE
‘ NEEDLE'WORKING TRADE
By J. V. Iiynn, Associate Professor Vocational Education
I. INTRQDUCTION
Education is a four-fold process in preparation for full or complete
living. To be adequately prepared requires that the individual shall
not be lacking in any one of the four elements necessary. First of
all there must be health. Such instruction as will promote physical
wellbeing is the foundation. . Upon this foundation is laid the ability
to earn a livelihood, so the second instructional process is prepara-
tion to do one’s share of the productive work of the world. Third,
and perhaps the largest in point of“ volume, are the social and civic
relationships, the ability to livetlaépiong one’s fellows. Fourth and
last is the profitable employmentviof leisure time. A well rounded
education therefore includes the physical, vocational, social-civic,
and avocational elements. Each is required, and each should have
a controlling purpose within its own field. Physical education is
concerned with physique and nothing else. Vocational education is
concerned with intelligent skilled production, and that alone. One
cannot usurp the place of the others, but each is‘supreme in its
own field.
Having all this in mind, this study which has been made of the
needle-working trade has. the vocational element as its basis. While
recognizing the other three, is not proposed to discuss them nor
to include them as factors inZ this problem. The purpose of this
study may be stated as an attempt to provide instructional material
for use in schools where girls are anticipating entrance upon or have
already entered the needle-working trade. It is designed, moreover,
for a local situation, and can only serve suggestively under any
other circumstances. . _
The local situation was found at Dubuque, Iowa, where the public
part-time school was faced with the problem of giving civic and
vocational instruction to girls now working for the H. B. Glover
Company, manufacturing an extended line of sleeping-wear and
overalls. In the factory there is also a training organization for
assistance to newly employed girls. Mr. Harvey L. Freeland, State
Supervisor of Trade and Industrial Education, suggested the benefit
which would come through a survey of the problem along some
definite lines, and brought the matter to the attention of those con-
cerned with vocational education at Iowa State College. The H. B.
Glover Company, directly interested in the part-time school, and
‘r
/ 7 l?"
4.
I,
A
ment in garment factories.
‘in the prospect of improving? its own ‘training school, kindly offered
all its facilities for use in ‘making the; necessary analysis of the
industry‘ ‘ V '
The survey was made with the assistanceiof the part-time school
teachers and,‘ the factory instructors. Officials; of the company in-
ClllCjll‘llfg for'emen and forewomen were highly ego-operative, making
available all necessary information, and checking the work to ensure
authenticity. Each department was visited and a. skeleton ‘draft
70ft the ‘production organization. was i'nadev with the payroll jobs in
each department and the work jobs, included in each payroll job.
It. was necessary, however to make-a more complete study of those
‘departments where girls are employed, and this was done ‘partly
through conferences with the factory instructors, and partly through
direct observation of processes. The conferences were necessary ‘to;
establish a point of view and create a geijieral concept of the instruc-
tion give-11in making certain garments ‘When the conferences had
accomplished this they had served their purpose,- and thereafter the
analysis of processes could be made more speedily and accurately
by direct observation of‘ the ‘girls at’ work on the ___‘g:arments. By
observation and'qu'estioningf, a mass of information was ‘obtained
regarding garment-making‘ in, four departments, Additional in-
formation was secured from foremen and forewomen, which has
been arranged as a part of this study under general or common
instructional material. _
While‘ the direct purpose of the survey was to assist in the solution
of a local problem, it is felt that it can serve a suggestive way vto
other part-time school officers having similar. "problems in other
industries. It will also be serviceable ‘to/heads of vestibule schools
in needle trade elsewhere, and mayv suggest to plant instructors
other industries a way out ‘of some difficulties‘,
II. METHODS OF PREPARATORY TRAINING
There are two possible ‘agencies for training workers in the semi;-
skilled employments. a p _ _
cases where the community value is sufficiently apparent to receive
attention from the public school board, It is here that the part-time
school can serve as the particularagenciy in. such training. If needle-
work; is sufficiently important in the community enterprise, it is
possible to provide special training for girls. anticipating employ-
These girls may be employed in various
occupations, but have expressed a desire to learn power machine
operating in order to change to an occupation with greater earning
capacity They may already be employed atjunior clerical service
in a garment factory, and meantime be preparing themselves at part-1
time school to master the operation of a machine sufficiently well to
enter one of the making departments. In either case it is a part-time
The ‘public may provide for it in ‘certain.
a
D _
preparatory class in power machine operating, and the public school
board would be serving the interests of the community directly by
meeting the vocational desires of these young people.
The second training agency is what is called the factory vestibule
school. It presupposes no preparation in advance of employment
in some factory. The girl is hired to operate a sewing machine, and
must be prepared to do so. Many factories place these novices on
the production floor and train them there. There are several im-
portant difficulties in successfully carrying through such a process
of training. These may be itemized as follows: (a) learner is over-
awed by speed and volume of work seen all around; (b) others are
wholly engrossed with production so that the learner is very much
alone at a time when a personal interest and a common problem is
most appreciated; (0) learners are so scattered that personal super-
vision by the instructor is made less effective; (d) if instruction is
a part of the forewoman’s duty, the supervision is rendered still
less effective because of the duties incident to, production. For these
and other reasons it is best to segregate learners in a training room
until they have acquired sufficient knowledge about the processes
and the firm organization to take their place on the production floor
as a unit in the plant and with an interest common to those already
there.
In the series of Training Bulletins issued by The Training Service
of the United States Department of Labor there are four devoted to
the garment trade. All of these have a very clear and adequate
description of the vestibule school, so that it is not necessary to
enlarge this point. The purpose here is rather to provide suggestive
material for use by instructors in either a public part-time or a fac-
tory vestibule school. A word is necessary as to the organization
for instruction. At the factory there is provision of machines, power
and material with but little extra expense. Instructors are selected
from among the most capable operators who may have at least a
liking for the job, and possibly a “knack” of putting across the
ideas required in operating a machine. These instructors, however
excellent, are seriously handicapped by the fact that they are simply
passing on certain skills in much the same way that they themselves
were taught them some years ago. They have not learned the new
trade of instructing, and are not aware perhaps that they have
actually changed trades completely. Executives in the plant have
little to offer in the way of suggestion for their interest and effort
is in production rather than instruction. Consequently the vesti-
bule school instructor is left to “go it alone,” under the impression
that because no one can give her any suggestions, she knows as much
about it as anyone else and probably more. There are two points
at which the vestibule instructor usually breaks down to a degree.
The first is the failure to include sufficient teaching material in the
outline of what should be taught. Probably there is not even such
6
an outline in existence. This bulletin is an attempt to set up some-
thing in the way of an objective. The second error is the impression
that showing and telling is teaching. Remedy for this lies in a study
of the art and science of teaching. Instructors must be trained to
teach just as operators are trained to manipulate goods in the
machine.
In the part-time school one of two policies may be pursued. The
instruction given may include both acquiring of skill on power ma—
chines, and the imparting of essential auxiliary information related
thereto, or it may cover only the general facts about employment in
the trade, the auxiliary information of a more general type regard-
ing the materials used, and the story of its production up to the time
it comes to this factory as raw material. Unquestionably the former
is better since it includes the latter. Such a course of instruction
will mean the installation of a number of power sewing machines.
The instructor for this part of the work must be familiar with quan-
tity production on such machines, and it is recommended that the
school board secure the service of some factory instructor for a
limited time each week to give the necessary manipulative instruc-
tion. The provision of sewing material must also be arranged By
cooperation with the management of the company from whom the
machine instructor comes, it should be possible to arrange for divert-
ing certain parts of lot numbers to the part~time school for use by
the instructor, who would be responsible for them in just the same
way as she would be when instructing in the factory. The auxiliary
instruction may be given by regular part-time instructors who know
the'factory organization and have learned the personnel and duties
which go with each position, together with such information as ap-
pears later in this study.
As indicated previously there will be two types of girl taking such
part-time instruction. Some are already employed in the garment
factory at other employments than machine work, and are looking
forward to a change which will be in the way of a promotion. Others
are employed at various occupations in the city, or are staying at
home, but are anticipating a change of occupation in favor of the
garment factory. In an eight-hour period of schooling per week,
the time might be divided in the following way:
Power machine operating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 hours
Auxiliary information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 hour
General improvement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..4 hours
If twelve girls desired to learn power operating, they could be
accommodated with a unit of six machines if formed into two groups,
A and B. Half of the eight hours would be required to segregate
these girls for special instruction, while the other four of general
part-time instruction would be spent in regular classes. The two
groups would meet together for the auxiliary trade instruction, but
7
would get their machine operating at a different ‘time. A suggested
schedule follows: - _
First Half Day
Group A—Machine Operating . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..3 hours
Group A—General Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 hour
Group B—General Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 hours
‘ Second Half Day
Group A—General Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . .8 hours
Group B—Machine Operating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 hours
Groups A & B~Related Instruction . . . . . . . . . .1 hour
This would mean that a factory instructor would be required for
two half-days of three hours each.
III. VOCATIONAL TEACHING OBJECTIVES
Before any body of material can be set up for instructional pur-
poses, either in a part-time or a vestibule school, it is necessary to
have very clearly defined aims as to what is to be done for those
trained. Here are some which might be adopted.
1. To train the learner as a high speed operator of some particular
machine doing a special operation.
2. To train the learner as a skilled operator of some particular
machine doing a number of operations.
3. To train the learner as an intelligent, skilled employee giving
full time to operation of some machine.
4. To train the learner as an intelligent, skilled employee giving
full time to variety work on some one or more machines.
. These are each worth some careful thought so that they may be
evaluated, for on the choice of objective hangs a great deal of the
success attained, provided its requirements are adequately met. It
is safe to predicate that the first objective is more frequently chosen
than any of the others, or that the methods adopted and teaching
content used indicate such to be the result where probably no aim
had even been formulated. It will be noted that three ideas dom-
inate, namely, high speed operator, machine, and one operation. The
instructor has in mind the minimum time and effort to approximate
the aim, and considers the essential elements a machine and an
operator to feed it with-material. It presupposes an automaton
whose only activity is physical like the machine.
The second objective is an improvement upon the first in that it
enlarges-the physical effort to a degree, providing a range of dif-
erentiated motions which themselves go through a cycle. Here
again the elements are a machine and its attendant. '
‘ The fundamental error in the assumption in both cases is that the
individual is merely physical. Man is a product of Mind, not ‘of
8
matter, and as such he is expressing ideas which are more real to him
than any material things, because they affect his conduct with ten-
fold more force than anything else. Man fights for an idea and
strikes for certain principles which he calls fair play, justice, equal-
ity, etc. So that to assume that an operator who is trained to attend
a machine will do that and nothing more is a fallacy. She thinks,
and unless her thoughts are wisely directed they may assume im-
proper relationships and induce wrong conclusions. Fancies arise
in lieu of facts, and seem as real as the true. Had the training ob-
jective included ideas on industrial relationships, there would be
much better satisfaction and increased earning power on the part
of each learner.
The third statement of an objective brings in the new element
that the learner is an employee as well as a machine attendant.
That is, she has human relationships with other employees, who as
a whole form the personnel of the force from management down. It
is an industrial team, not a collection of persons. They are harnessed
together by an organization which demands that each unit pull its
share. The learner in this case must not only be skilled, but also
intelligent along such lines as will be indicated later.
The fourth aim differs from the third in that the learner is trained
with advancement to executive positions in view. It may not be
purposely entered at the beginning. That is, a learner might have
been trained according to the third aim, but manifests ability which
would make it advisable to train for the fourth. She would then be
taken off the production floor and placed on a time basis while being
trained to do a variety of work, and have an adequate presentation
of the problems related to that work.
It is possible that management officials will feel that there is no
time for training in anything else than the bare bones of the pro-
cesses; that it will cost too much to follow what looks to be more
idealism. Yet these same officers are spending far more in adjust;
ing differences, listening to grievance committees, hiring and train-
ing for an abnormal labor turnover than would meet the additional
cost of more effective initial training. Ignorance is the breeding
ground for a large part of the labor dissatisfaction, and when this
has been opened up at the beginning, much grief will have been
eliminated.
IV. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONAL CONTENT
With the purpose of assisting instructors who are faced with the
responsibility of giving instruction preparatory to employment in
the garment trade, the following outlines have been prepared. They
deal with a local situation, and have been itemized from particular
data, so that they can serve as a whole only for the schools and
factory in this particular city. Elsewhere the material can only be
9
a suggestion of what might be prepared under parallel cicumstances.
Under this heading will be included those subjects which should
be taken up with every learner who is enrolled, regardless of what
place she is to occupy in the factory or office. Every clerk should
have a day or two in the vestibule school to get acquainted with the
local organization, learn who its officers are, catch its spirit, get a
good acquaintance with the factory program, and join the team in
purpose as well as in letter. There is not any suggestion as to the
order in which it is to be discussed because it is all classed as
auxiliary information, and as such is simply imparted rather than
taught. Instructors will be guided by the situation in hand when
selecting a sequence of topics. The numerals attached to the topics
are therefore only for identification purposes.
Topical Outline
1. The Local Company
a. Formed—years ago.
1). Purpose (enlarge present situation).
0. Set up standard of excellence (enlarge present standard).
d. Company organization and duties of each head (see chart,
page 10). .
e. Function of each department in factory proper.
f. Learner is introduced personally to each official with whom
she will have relations.
2. Manufacturing costs
a. Table showing relation of costs






I l l
Material i Labor Factory | General I Profit
I l
k Prime J
\ Shop cost-—— —-_-———J
¥— Total cost 1
P Selling price 4
b. Prime costs include:
(1) Direct material going into product for sale.
(2) Indirect material such as coal, oil, water, gas, boxes,
crates, factory office supplies.
(3) Direct labor upon product made for sale.
(ll) Indirect labor including entire service force.
c. Factory costs include:
(1) All prime costs.
(2) Factory supervision, as foremen, foreladies, superin-
tendents.
(3) Factory office labor, as desk girls, label markers,
clerks.
(4) Interest on money invested in buildings, or rent for
same.
10
COMPANY OQGANIZATION
























































.Gavem/ Mange/wen?“
Win/4
I l
Off/Ce Manage/Wen?‘ tin/a? Wmnr féCfW/‘kY/WW/Yf
MKB MKC Mk0 ~
I l 1
570/225 Ova/“0” fieganghm" ‘Woe/(£0077
Mr. E Ma? 6 M/aa .7 Mr? K
. Chi/079735
fig? seam Wm
fierw‘ce
l l l
Due/far? Mao/mm)‘ 6c/700/
M1591. MIT/V Mai/7
Cafefen'a Jan/m“ [hm
Mas/‘7 MIT'U MITQ








'11
(5) Interest on money invested in machines, or rent for
same.
(6) Taxes, insurance and repairs.
(7 ) All spoilage and waste of goods.
(8) All designing and experiments.
(9) Replacement of all machines as they become useless
(depreciation).
d. Total costs include:
(1) All prime costs.
(2) All factory costs.
(3) Salaries of general office and sales force.
(4) Expense of selling other than salary, as travel, etc.
(5) Rent, taxes, insurance and maintenance of general
office.
e. All costs over that of direct material and labor are called
overhead costs. A failure to see relative values is found
in assuming that the making cost is the only one. There
are many others which must be added to this, as shown
above, and when all are included it will be found that the
selling price of the garment exceeds the total production
cost by but a few cents. Get exact company figures to
illustrate this in a series of examples.
f. Profit means the balance or surplus which remains of the
selling price after all costs have been paid. It is a rising
and falling sum depending upon the amount of goods sold,
state of the markets and amount of competition. At times
there is no profit at all, and sometimes a real loss must
be sustained.
3. Markets and Competition
a. Manufacturers can only sell when the public wants to buy.
This want establishes a market. Business market de-
pends absolutely on the wants of the people. \
b. When wants are made known there is a bid by two or more
manufacturing firms to get the business. This bidding is
called competition. It means cutting the selling price
to the limit.
c. Price cutting means eliminating
(1) Unnecessary or perhaps all profit.
(2) Unnecessary overhead costs. (Local plant examples.)
(3) Unnecessary factory costs. (Local plant examples.)
d. Necessary costs cannot be reduced. They include
(1) Lowest buying cost of material.
(2) Lowest fair wage for labor, supervision, office and
selling force. ,
e. Fair wages, hours and conditions mean willingness and
teamwork, resulting in least amount of spoilage and
waste, and largest output of product.
12
f. A sale order at a slightly lower price and more frequently
made is better than a sale order at a higher price and
less frequently made. (Local plant examples.) No sales
mean no work at our factory.
4. Capital Turnover
a. Two meanings are given to the term.
(1) Volume of business transacted in the year. Example,
with an investment of $60,000, $60,000 worth of
material was bought, made and sold. One turn-
over was made.
(2) If the $60,000 total was reached by having only
$20,000 available cash, this being used to purchase,
make and sell, then again purchase, make and sell,
,and again a third time, then the company is said
to have made three turnovers in the year on a
$20,000 investment.
b. Company having two turnovers in a year can sell at 8%
profit, and earn as much as it would with one turnover
selling at 6% profit. It is therefore better for public,
company and employees if turnovers can be made as fre-
quently as possible on a small investment. Show why.
Get local data for use on this topic, and enlarge as much
as needed.
V. GOMMON FACTORY KNOWLEDGE
This auxiliary information is given in addition to the preceding
material to all employees who are to enter the factory. It is some-
what more specific in character so that the workers have an immedi-
ate knowledge which will not only serve them, but will help them
know their place in the industrial team and fill it intelligently and
satisfactorily to themselves.
There is also a body of information which is required by every
machine operator, irrespective of the particular type of machine
which she may be operating. All special descriptions of machines
for example will appear in the detailed analysis of that part of the
production duty in which such machines are used. All information
which would otherwise have to be repeated with each machine has
been assembled under this heading for convenience. Likewise with
materials used, where all who are working with fiannels, or cambrics,
or pongees, would need to know the properties of each of these in
order to handle them intelligently, it saves effort and time to cover
this common subject matter once only.
Topical Outline
1. The local organization for production:
Make a trip over the factory and point out main features, then
discuss more fully in school. Study the following chart.
13
CHART 0F PRODUCT/0N URGAN/ZATION




V
J\
"'6' » Pa 21172 fies
C ' 62/7‘ log/“76$ ./
08,02,422”; "-— f’ofi a// ( 5/eep/hgweap N {9/77‘901475
Garmenfg Deparfmenf N/ghfs/m’fs 50x20’
- Fanny 5/71/‘7‘5 garmenfs
B/oomer’s ‘ i,
l Fo/d/ng
( Depam‘mem‘

‘Y
\




‘ Uw'la’r'en s





I , 4
I . 1T S/eeper’ Cg; MP?" 5
Tnlmmmgfg Deparfmenf gape/1‘;
Accessomes VJ







‘ j P/ns
52‘0/“95 Boxes .1
Depam‘mem‘ \ Pap”
The following description of the organization will add further to
the understanding of the chart.
a. Purchasing Agent
Material or stock is bought by (name), who is part of the
office staff. Goods on arrival are sent to the stores de-
partment for record and distribution as needed.
b. Planning and Designing Department
Designs for garments are worked out in a division of the
general office. When a design is approved it is then de-
tailed onto a descriptive sheet showing quantities, kinds
and sizes of various piece-goods, trimmings, buttons, etc.,
required. An order number or lot number is assigned to
it, and the descriptive sheet is then sent to the store room,
along with a master work chart and cutting ticket. Get
these and discuss samples fully.
c. Stores Department
(1) Requisitions materials.
(2) Receives and enters record of all materials.
(3) Piece-goods (yardage) kept in stock room distinct
from small stores.
(4) On receipt of order from planning department,
(a) Enters order or lot number on books.
(b) Sends master work chart and cutting ticket
with piece-goods to cutting department.
(c) Retains descriptive sheet.
(d) Makes out size ticket for the lot and sends
them to cutting room.


OVe/w” 0vem//s
Depam‘men Rompers
pajamas 57‘ock
Paw/"ms Wm saws Rag/77


14
WT]
d.
A picture of the department is shown in the following table.
(e) Removes from store by perpetual inventory
system (describe) all trimmings, etc., indi-
cated on (c) and places them in a box mark-
ed with the lot number. This goes to sew-
ing department on request of desk girl when
needed.
Requisition boxes or cartons for packing the
order when it reaches folding department.
(f)
Cutting Department
This is the department in which production actually be-
gins. The large room is filled with long tables on which
whole webs of piece goods can be laid up one upon an-
other until two or three inches deep. A set of patterns
is laid upon the lays and marked, then the cutters use the
cutting machine to separate all the parts, following the
lines very carefully. These parts are assembled into
bundles of twenty-four complete garments, and the neces-
say out trimmings and size labels which go with them.
The tied bundles are ticketed with lot number and sent
to the sewing room in wheeled trucks.
Pay—
roll job "means the name under which a given worker is identified.
Sometimes
this name indicates exactly what the employee works at,
but in many cases it does not, so the names of all the jobs each
employee works at are placed opposite the payroll job to make clear
just what duties the payroll job includes.
Layer
Marker
Cutter
‘L1 “>00 NH
(Not
0
8.
g-s
A
.5’
Payroll—Job
Assembler
(Trimmer)
Matcher
JO
Transfer boy
Cutting Department
Work Jobs
Sort yardage, sort colors, check quantities, lay up.
Select patterns according to master Work chart, check yard-
age, mark lays.
Cut lays with machine, trim lays with short knife.
Split into 24’s, put in labels, put in cut trimming, etc., attach
job ticket.
Match stripes on parts of fancy shirts before cutter cuts to
pattern line.

a regular

Distribute bundles to sewing departments.
verall Department
For description see introduction to analysis
partment on page 29.
of this de-
Sleepingwear Department
For description see introduction to analysis of this de-
partment on pages 42 and 56.
Children’s Sleeper Department
For description see introduction to analysis of this de-
ment on page 65.
Folding Department
For description see introduction to analysis of this de-
ment on page 74.
15
i. Machinist Department
While this department is not directly concerned with pro-
duction, because it does not handle the goods, yet its
indirect relationship is very intimate because the service
rendered is in care of the machines. A small shop is pro-
vided where machines can be taken down and repaired,
or adjustments made. The following chart indicates the
service rendered.



No. | Payroll Job Work Jobs
1 I Machinist Take down machines, repair parts, replace parts, make ad-
‘ justments, install machines.
2 Belt boy Repair belts, oil shafting and motors, assist on repair work,
I adjust lights. minor service jobs.
j. Stock Room, also Shipping Room
This department receives the finished goods in boxes,
cartons and parcels from the overall and folding depart-
ments. The overalls are not wrapped, being simply tied
in dozens. Goods are assembled according to orders re—
ceived from the office and prepared for shipping.
A chart of the department shows the following duties:
No. | Payroll Job Work Jobs
1 I Stock Clerk Receive goods from factory, place them in stock room, pick
I out and prepare order for the shipping room.
2 Checker Check order sheet with goods in shipping room.
3 l Packer Wrap parcels and tie them, fill cases with cartons or wrapped
I bundles. .
4 I Receiving Clerk Record weights and numbers of cases.
5 l Shipping Clerk Record shipments.
6 | Helper Open empty cases, nail up cases, brush on addresses, load
I wagons.

2. Materials used in factory production
a. Denim
( 1) Used for overalls, work coat-s, rompers.
(2) Bought in bales of 1000 yards each, the yardage com-
ing in pieces of 50 to 60 yards each in length.
Width, 28 inches.
(3) Described in catalog as two-twenty, two-forty, two-
sixty or three yard denim, meaning heavy, medium
and light weight goods respectively, and referring
to fact that there are 2.20 yards, 2.40 yards, etc.,
to a pound of cloth. .
(4) (‘ustomary in factory to refer to goods by lot number
to which the special kind has been assigned in de-
scriptive sheet, as R1102, 0-263, P3558, etc.
(5) Manufacturers will guarantee only one bale of vat-
dyed piece-goods to be uniform in color, hence
when lot numbers run several bales it becomes
necessary for operator to match colors, to see that
each overall suit is same shade throughout.
16
(6) Some denims are washed in a solution of iron, which
when dried out leaves the iron in the cloth to make
it heavier. This ‘iron is hard on sewing machine
needles, dulling them. rapidly. Remedy is to soap
needle or use as fine a size of needle as will stand
up‘ ‘against the drive.
Kinds used are plain blue, plain ‘white, plain khaki,
blue and white stripes. ,
(8) Close weave makes the goods somewhat stiff and
heavy to handle.
(9) Length of stitch, 10 to 14 to the inch.
13. Fl'annelette '
(1) Used for winter. sleeping wear for men, women and
_ ‘ children.
:(2) Cases contain 1-500v to 2000 yards, 50; to. 60 yards to a
' _ ‘ ‘piece. Width, 316Kinehes. ,
Woven and vna'pped.on both sides so that there is no
right ‘and ‘wrong side to. the goods.
(4) Variety is secured by ‘stripes. of various widths‘. and
spaces.v Stripes may be one color or composed of
several narrow colored stripes together, forming
a larger stripe.
(15.) Composite stripes are. two kinds.
(a) Balanced, in which there is uniform arrange.‘
ment of ‘the narrow stripes on each side of a
center line“.
(b) "‘ One way” patterns, in which there is no sym-
metrical arrangement.
(6') In thev latter case parts of garmentsv requiring to be
‘matched, like pocket pieces, can only be placed
“one way” when attached. Balanced patterns are
preferred.
(7) Softness of the weave allows the sewing ‘machine
thread to sink. easily into the goods, so that length
:of stich can be 14; to the inch and still ‘do a good
piece of work. Cottons and harder goods require
16-18 stitches to the inch. ,
('8) Much lint gathers on the machine parts when using
flannelette, requiring: more frequent. cleaning.
0. Information similar‘ to the above should be. secured and
given on the following :. prints, cambrics, muslins, pongees,
percales, nain'sookjs, jacquards, silks ,any other piece
‘ goods made up into garments. '
d. Sundry materials .in store ‘room
( 1) Folding Department.
Pins are‘ bought in bulk in 5-113. boxes, '20 boxes to»
CaSe;
l7
(2) Overall Department
(a) Patent buttons. Bought in great gross (12
gross) packages, 25 packages to the case.
Buttons and tacks in separate packages.
Made in japanned, brass, or nickel finish.
Sizes measured by “lines,” a line being one-
fortieth of an inch. Two sizes, usually 22-
line and 27-line, used on each garment.
(b) Buckles, loops, snap loops, slides. Bought by
double-gross or in barrel lots, bulk; made in
brass and nickel.
(0) Elastic webbing. Bought per yard by 1000
yards, in 50-yard rolls. Marked to order
with firm name and space marks for cutting
into lengths. Widths used are 3A”, 1”, 11/8”,
13/8”, 1%”. Used in straps or suspenders.
Cut into bundle lengths of one dozen pieces
by store clerk, and into separate pieces by
operator.
(d) Labels. Paper and cloth labels are printed to
order with firm trademark and lot number.
Sizes are stamped on labels with rubber
stamps before being sent to cutting room.
(e) Thread. WVhite, black, olive drab and canary
yellow colors used. Size of thread indicated
by number, and hyphenated with it the
number of cords in the twist, 24-3, 36-3, etc.
Eight hundred and forty yards of thread of
any size is arbitrarily called a “hank.” If
30 hanks of a particular size of thread weigh
one pound, then that size is said to be No. 30
thread, etc. This is also called the “count.”
Thread may be glazed (starch) or soft. Top
thread (needle) is 30-3, soft, and comes in
9,600-yard spools. Spools cost 10 cents extra
over cones, but expense is saved in knotting
trouble as it comes off on the machine. Bot-
tom thread (bobbin or looper) is 36-3, soft,
and comes in 12,000-yard cardboard cones.
The way it is wound on does not cause
trouble in machine and saves expense for
spools. Buttonhole thread is 56-3, glazed,
for the Reece machine, and 303, soft, for
Singer machine; colors black and bronze-
brown. Buttonhole cord is a heavy black
3-cord which is sewn in around edge of hole
for reinforcement purpose.
18
(3) Sleeping wear and children’s sleeper departments
(a) Labels. Bought in 500,000 lots, 1000 labels
to the roll. Trademark and firm name
printed on them.
(b) Size tabs. Bought locally and printed in
20,000 or 30,000 lots with the sizes and
classes such as “men’s,” ladies’, boy’s,
baby’s, etc. Tabs are stuck under edge of
label when sewn to garment.
(c) Thread. Top is 60-3 and 80-3, white, soft, on
spools. Bottom is 70-3 and 80-3, white, soft,
on cones. Unbleached white is cheaper and
stronger than bleached, and is used on flan-
nelette where possible. Bleached must be
used on cambrics and muslins. Colored cot-
ton or silk thread to match is used on all
garments of pongee, silk, etc. Buttonhole
thread is 40-6, white, on top and 70-6, white,
on bottom.
((1) Buttons. Freshwater native pearl buttons are
white opalescent. Japanese pearl buttons
are yellow semi-transparent and higher
grade buttons in every respect, and yet can
be purchased at almost same price because
of cheaper labor. Two-thirds of freshwater
are used for the bulk of garments. The
higher priced garments have Japanese but-
tons. Ocean pearl buttons, highest grade of
American make, are used exclusively on
shirts. Sizes used vary with position on
garment, being 18-line, 20, 22, 24, 28 and
30-line diameters.
(e) Trimmings
Mercerized crochet cotton, Nos. 3 (coarse),
11 and 20, all 2-cord, is bought in bulk in
lé-lb. cones in white and all desired colors.
Smaller quantities bought locally in balls.
Used for fancy stitching on garments, like
briar, wave, hem and shell stitching. Ex-
plain process and purpose of mercerizing
yarn.
Feather stitch braid (silk thread designs in
white and colors on cotton braid 3/16” to
3/4,” wide) is frequently sewn on garments.
\Voven braids in two forms, bought bulk in
gross yards on spools.
Rik-rak is a zig-zag weave of silk thread
19
over a heavy straight cotton cord, and is
sewn direct onto garments. Colors as de-
sired.
Edging and plain braids in white and colors
for sewing along edges of garments
Middy laces for pajunions and pajunettes.
Ribbons, plain and fancy, white and colored,
for knots, bows, etc.
Elastic for bottoms of pajunettes and bloom-
ers, with straight lining for covering same.
Bought in 2-gross yard spools.
Bindings, straight and bias cotton, for doub-
ling over edges and sewing to garment. Bias
binding is made by cutting piece-goods at an
angle of 45 degrees in widths of about two
feet and sewing the selvages end to end
without overlapping. Special machine stag-
gers the needle alternately across the joined
edges. The bias strip is then rolled on a
tube and sawn off into 1/2”, 5%”, 1", etc.,
rolls. Edges are raw.
Fringe is a narrow cotton tape with silk or
cotton fringe along one edge, bought in
half-gross yards on a card. Used for sew-
ing to ends of pajama girdles. Is cut up by
operator as needed.
Loops (frogs) in white and colors are bought
in gross-lots for sewing on buttonhole posi-
tions on pajama jackets.
3. Equipment
a. Instruction about construction, operation and care of ma-
chines
(1) Principal parts of machine are:
(a) Head, the sewing part, fastened to table top.
(b) Transmitter, the power link, fastened to under
side of table. '
(c) Control system, the foot treadles or knee lifts
which start and stop action.
(d) Thread standard, from floor or table top, hold-
ing two, four or six spools according to
machine. '
(2) Principal parts of the head are:
(a) Base, the iron casting supporting all machin-
ery and attachments. Parts called bed,
column and arm. Beds may be flat (regular
type) or special (shaped to do special work)
20
as 011 buttonhole, felling or tacking ma-
chines.
(b) Main Shaft and Handwheel. The shaft lies in
the arm, with l’lElll.(l\-Vll€@l for hand control
and belt él'roove at right or back. O11 the .
shaft are all needed cams to change revolv-
ing motion into reciprocating motion. One
cam operates a link down through the col-
umn to the underside of bed, controlling
feed dog and shuttle or looper. Another
cam operates the needle. Other devices on
special machines may be operated by cams
or gears.
(c) Presser foot is a smooth shoe which is attached
to the bottom end of an upright sliding bar
just behind the needle. A spring presses
this shoe downwards to keep the cloth
against the surface of the bed. The needle
usually is so placed as to work through an
opening in the foot. It is lifted to insert
cloth by a link or rod and ‘chain to either
a treadle or a knee-lift.
(d) Feed dog is the serrated moving part which
comes up through the bed beneath the
presser foot far enough to grip the cloth
against the foot and draw it back after the
needle has been withdrawn. Its motion is
compound reciprocating, first rising, second
moving backward, third dropping, fourth
moving forward. The feed dog controls the
length of stitch, as its back and forward mo-
tion can be shortened or lengthened by a
stitch regulator.
(e) Stitch regulator is an adjustment which alters
the proportion of the link motion operating
the feed dog so that it moves through a
smaller or greater space. In some machines
the regulator is placed on the end of the
main shaft outside the handwheel, and in
others on the front of the column just near
the bed.
(f) Tensions are regulating devices for controlling
the “pull” or tautness of the thread, in
which the thread passes between two plates
or discs which have pressure upon them by
spring and adjusting nut. One is on the
21
arm for the top thread and the other under
the bed for the bottom thread.
(g) Take-ups are the moving eyelets through
which the thread must pass, for the purpose
first, of drawing thread through the tension
as the needle descends; second of slacking
off thread for the looping operation incli-
cated by the slight backing up of the needle;
and third, to take up the thread taut again
as the needle rises. One take-up is on the
arm, and the other beneath the bed. Mo-
_ tions of both tally exactly with that of the
needle. There is no lower take-up 011 a
shuttle machine, that action being provided
in the motion of the shuttle itself.
(11) Looper and shuttle. Two distinct methods of
feeding the lower thread to the needle. The
shuttle is a revolving or reciprocating part
containing a bobbin or spool of thread, and
so timed to pass its point or nose through
the loop of the upper thread when formed
by the partial lowering of the needle. Thread
is wound onto the bobbins and put into the
shuttle as required. In the looper system
the lower thread comes ‘direct from the
spool to the lower tension, through the take-
up and into the looper, which passes it
behind the needle thread in exactly the
same manner as the upper thread came
through the upper series. Further descrip-
tion of these mechanisms is impossible with-
out the machine to demonstrate.
(i) Bobbin winders on the shuttle machines are
fastened to the table so as to receive motion
by friction against the handwheel. The
thread passes through a tension onto a bob-
bin, which when filled automatically throws
the winder out of contact with the hand-
wheel.
(j) Multiple-needle bar. Some machines sew two
and three rows of stitches, by having that
many needles in the bar. In these machines
the looper system is used beneath the bed,
so that either two, four, or six spools of
thread are fed directly into the needle ac-
cording as it is a one, two or three-needle
machine. '
22
(3) Transmitter
(a) Purpose to transfer power from the line shaft
and control its use or non-use. It is simply
a jack shaft on hangers under the table and
guarded at all danger points.
(b) Driven Pulley. Either a flat or grooved belt
pulley connected with the line shaft by a 1”
flat or a round leather belt, and running
loose on the jack shaft. It runs continuous-
ly with the line shaft.
(0) Driving \Vheel. A grooved wheel fastened to
the jack shaft and belted by round leather
through holes in the table to the handwheel
on the head. It stands still when machine
is out of action.
(d) Clutch and brake. By special device on side
of the two wheels, called a clutch, the two
can be locked together so as to run as one
wheel. Momentum of the machine is check-
ed so as to stop when the clutch is released
by immediate application of a brake. Loos-
ening the clutch applies the brake at the
same time, and vice versa.
(e) Speed ratios. Machines are constructed to
run at certain capacities, usually 2500 to_
3500 stitches per minute of continuous run-
ning, and to maintain that speed always
while actually sewing. With a mainshaft
running at a certain known speed, and the
machine speed known, only a certain size
for each of the two pulleys of the trans-
mitter will give the right speed. Two-step
transmitters are sometimes made so that
machines may run at different speeds ac-
cording to the goods being put through. In
this case the line shaft and driven pulley
have each two steps (called a two-step cone)
on which the belt may be placed.
(4) Control system
(a) Transmitter treadle. A foot tread linked to
the clutch and brake of the transmitter.
Pressure of the foot releases the brake and
cuts in the clutch. Removal of the pressure
reverses the action.
(b) Presser foot control. Already described un-
der presser foot. Either a foot lift or a knee
lift.
23
(c) All machines have special controls and ad-
justments which can only be taught by dem-
onstration on those machines at which the
learner is to be employed.
(5) Attachments
(a) Folders. Very many forms for special duty,‘
and only describable when actual part is
present. They are made of thin sheet metal
formed in such a way as to lead the edge
of the cloth under the needle in some ar-
ranged manner. Single scroll folders turn
only one edge of cloth. Double scroll fold—
work two edges together so as to form
seams of various kinds and sizes. Double
scrolls may. be either right or left, that is,
make upper side of seam face right or left
of the needle. Fastened a rule to bed
just in front of the presser foot. Vary in
weight and strength according to goods to
be handled. Must be placed “fair” so that
seam or hem is correctly under the needle
Must be in some cases adjusted for runs of
thick and thin goods.
(b) Combinati<m presser foot and folder. Used
for pleating work in shirts.
(c) Gatherer. Works in combination with a
double folder, where one part of garment
must be gathered in as it is sewn between
two other hemmed edges. Used alone on
any piece of goods. Operates by lever at-
tached to bottom of needle bar.
(d) Numerous attachments for special purposes
described only to those who will operate
them. '
(6) Needles
(a) Needles are marked by numbers according to
size, ranging from No. 2 (smallest) to No. 8
for garment making purposes. The size of

Needle ' Thread Sizes
Number Cotton Silk
2 150-100 000-00
21/3 100- 90 00
3 90- 80 0
3% 80— 70 A
4 70— 60 A
41/2 60- 50 B
5 50— 40 O
6 40— 30 C
7 30- 24 D
8 24— 16 E


24
the eye has a distinct ratio to diameter of
the needel, hence certain sizes of needles
are best used with certain sizes of thread.
A table is given to indicate this relation.
(b) The method of setting needles in the machines
is the same in principle, but may vary
somewhat in application 011 different ma-
chines. A set screw is tightened against
the shank of the needle after it is placed in
a hole or a groove in the needle-bar Direc-
tions which go with the machine indicate
method of placing the needle at the right
height to have the eye make the loop in cor-
rect place for the shuttle point or looper to
pass through it.
(c) Any facts regarding essential shape or size of
the needle for specific purposes should be
taught.
(d) Method of threading needle is a point for
careful instruction. It includes how to
shape end of the thread, how to hold thread
properly, best method of passing it into eye
and drawing through, best position of eye
and light to strike the eye “fair.”
(7) Line Shaft
Placed beneath a double row of machine tables and
serving two rows of machines. Motor drive con-
nected usually at one end of line shaft. Safety
precautions.
(8) Threading machine
(a) Upper thread. Each learner must be taught
to thread her individual machine. The
fundamental things about threading are that
‘ thread goes first through a guide, second
through a tension, third through a take-up,
and fourth through guides to needle.
(b) Lower thread. In general, take out throat
plate, remove empty bobbin, place full bob-
bin and close shuttle, draw thread through
tension, turn hand wheel till needle brings
up lower thread, replace throat plate.
(9) Feeding
(a) Underply must always be retarded and over-
ply allowed to run through freely. Reason
is that the feed dog pulls the ply next to it,
while the presser foot restrains the upper
ply giving a tendency to slide and pucker.
25
Only exception to this is when the underply
is bias goods, in which case it should be al-
lowed to run through freely.
(1)) Similar instruction, with intelligent reasons
in all cases, on method of operating when
starting seam, turning corners, removing
work, tacking with presser foot lifted, etc.
(10) Oiling Machine
(11)
All places requiring oil should be located and
method of getting to them with oil-can demon-
strated. The grease cup on the transmitter is also
to be explained. Frequency of oiling is deter-
mined by the need, and once established, every
operator should conform to the schedule. All
parts do not require oil with the same frequency,
so that judgment as to when and how much oil to
apply is an essential teaching point. Garments
may be ruined by spattering, and machines may
be ruined by burnt bearings. There is a proper
condition which must be learned and maintained.
Cleaning machine
The machine is the operator’s friend. When treat-
ed rightly it responds by increased earnings.
Neglect it and it cannot serve so well. If factory
rules require that machines be given a periodic
cleaning, the ruling has been made in the best
interests of all. It should be observed only as the
least that might be done. Lint, dust, grit, excess
and used oil gather and reduce earning power.
Two minutes spent in cleaning occasionally will
return several times that in earnings. Learners
should be taught how to clean, and required to
clean their school machine, say daily, as a pre-
liminary to beginning work. Each cleaning should
be inspected and graded.
(12) Trouble Shooting
(a) Thread breaks repeatedly. Look for rough
needle hole in throat plate, worn eye in
needle, tension too tight or grooved, uneven
size of thread, knots, snarls, etc. Remedy
for each case when found.
(b) Skip stitches. Look for cause of looper or
shuttle failing to get through loop made by
needle, or maybe looper tension is too slack,
allowing more thread to come through than
lower take-up can control. Remedy for
cause when located.
26
(c) Similar instruction for all forms of trouble
which may arise.
b. lafeteria and Recreation Rooms
(1) Necessary description and rules as to its use.
4. Routing System
a. General plan
(1) Route of material from cutting room to top floor
thence by stages back to ground floor. Banks of
similar machines installed 011 tables in number suf-
ficient to get balanced production. Stationary
bins at ends of machine tables and close to examin-
ing tables for storing bundles between processes.
Counter between tables and bins at which desk
girls make records of bundles handled into and
out of bins, with record of operators and processes.
b. Methods of transportation
(1) Trucks with racks or boxes for bringing stock to and
from cutting room, and finally to stock room as
finished product.
(2) Shutes for passage from floor to floor.
(3) Bundles carried by individuals to and from machines,
examining tables, folding tables, boxing tables, etc.
5. Card and Ticket Systems
All lots and bundles are distinguished by cards bearing descrip-
tive numbers, and work cards for the payroll number of each
operator performing certain productive tasks on the goods.
Necessary instruction regarding these cards must be included
here, samples of same being prepared for demonstration, and
practice afforded in filling them out.
6. Employment and training
a. All beginners must be trained to produce at a profit to
themselves. From the first they should know that they
are not profitable workers for themselves, and a distinct
loss to the company. The piece rate earnings represent
their real value to themselves and the company. The
cost of training and any other wages than piece rates
earned are therefore given to them without any returned
value.
b. The company considers that a girl cannot learn to earn
profitably to herself at the piece rates under less than
seven weeks, and in order to be fair it pays a bonus or
free gift in addition to the amount earned. The schedule
of wages paid during the training period is as follows:
Week Piece rate earnings Bonus
1st . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Record of bundles sewn and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. $7.00
2nd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Record of bundles sewn and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.00
3rd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Record of bundles sewn and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.00
4th . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..Record of bundles sewn and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 4.00
27
5th . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Record of bundles sewn and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.00
6th . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..Record of bundles sewn and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.00
7th . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Record of bundles sewn and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.00
8th . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Record of bundles sewn and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. none
Get actual figures of several cases to show constancy of the sum.
c. Piece rate system is established to make it possible for
girls to earn according to their skill. By it a certain
price is set for doing a piece or unit or perhaps a dozen
pieces. This price is established in as fair a manner as
can be found. Two methods are used in setting the rate,
each of which is intended to find the average speed of
production and to set opposite that average a fair wage.
(1) Experienced girls picked at random (say six) are set
to work upon bundles of the same kind, and a
record of the time of each girl is kept. This trial
is repeated several times (say four) and the time
of each girl is kept. The time of the twenty-four
records is then added and a fair wage set for the
time required to make twenty-four bundles. The
piece rate or rate per dozen would be one-forty-
eighth of this amount.
Examples of these should be worked out as prob-
lems with actual data to show how it is done.
Knowledge satisfies.
(2) A skilled girl is put at the new work on a time basis.
The amount of work which she does is considered
to be 8 9;. of what she will do when she gets up
to her full speed. This amount which she has done
is taken as the amount required to earn the wage
for that time. That is, the normal rate is set at 4/5
of a high speed day ’s work for a day ’s pay. The
incentive will be to earn more than the day ’s pay
by doing better than 4/5 of a day’s work.
Examples are needed to make clear how this
method works out in actual practice.
d. Relation of piece rate to turnover
It is essential that employees get clearly in mind that
quantity production affects the making cost per unit in
a way that is frequently forgotten or neglected. If a
company invests $150,000 in a factory to make garments
and the turnover in a year is 100,000 dozen, it has to
figure very closely on the making cost. An item in the
price even as small as one cent per garment means $12,000
difference in the making cost for the year. If the com-
pany had been making 6% on its investment and had to
absorb such an amount it would mean that the 6% would
be wiped out and a 2% loss on the year’s business would
28
take its place. Hence the rates have to be considered
carefully for 1/8 cents here and V; cent there per garment.
A series of questions taken from actual rates and with
the company’s actual invested capital should be given to
drive this point home.
e. Factory rules
Every employee is required to conform to a number of
regulations which have been put into effect from time to
time as need arose. They were not made up arbitrarily
at one time, and enforced just for the purpose of showing
a desire to rule things. Every rule has a reason, and
each employee should be informed before going into
actual production what rules there are, and have a reason
given for the existence of each rule. Furnish a printed
or mimeographed copy for each employee, but do more
than hand over a copy. Teach the reasons.
There is also the matter of courtesy and general factory
etiquette. Rules do not cover everything, and there is
much which is left to the judgment and good sense of
every employee in regard to relations with others. Many
local examples of desirable conduct should be collected
and discussed with every employee.
f. Safety and shop hygiene
Aside from such rules as have been made governing safe-
ty, it is necessary to give some training in first aid and in
general habits of careful action. There should be fire
drill for the entire force occasionally, and every new em-
ployee needs instruction on points connected with such
drill. Some of this instruction will be given when in-
structing about use of the machines, but there is also
need for some time being given to formal discussion of
principles of safety as applied in the particular plant.
g. Upgrading and promotion
Provision should be made for training girls provided they
show ability and ambition to work up in the service of
the company. A promotional schedule for such training
ought to be worked out and the objective kept clearly in
mind by foreladies, instructors, management and the
candidate herself. Systematic preparation for super-
visory positions will surely pay for effort expended in
this way.
h. State and Federal laws governing safety, employment,
workmen ’s compensation, housing, etc.
i. Interpretation of graphs and charts showing production
records of quantity, perfects and imperfects, and other
types.
29
VI. DETAILED ANALYSIS OF CERTAIN DEPARTMENTS
Elsewhere it was stated that machine operators should be familiar
with the construction of a garment from first to last—not in the
sense of being able to make it necessarily, but so that her own part
of the process may be properly located together with its significance
and relation to those coming before and after. An analysis has been
made of those departments where girls are employed so that these
details might be available. The operations are described in such a
way as might be called a Standard Operation Sheet, though that
was not the purpose. They describe operations as they are now
performed. This analysis meets two needs, first, as indicated above;
and second, to provide a basis for more thorough instruction on spe-
cific operations by noting points which might otherwise escape at-
tention.
In this study there is no repetition of data which is general enough
to appear in Section V. In any job where such information is re-
quired, but is not peculiar to this job alone, the fact is inferred by
the expression, “nothing special” or “nothing additional.”
Overall Department
Three types of overalls are made, namely the pant overall, the bib
overall, and the one-piece overall. The pant overall comes only to
the waist line. The bib overall is waist high at the back, but has
a bib covering the chest. Usually no jacket is worn with this
garment, but it may be worn. The one-piece overall is a continuous
garment, buttoning from neck to crotch.
The making of a complete bib overall may be described by steps
as follows:

No. I Payroll Job Work Jobs
1 I Pocket girl Sew on hip and rule pockets.
2 I First part girl Hem side facings, put on seat-pieces, make and sew in front
I swing pockets, sew in fly, hem button side.
3 Seamer Join backs together, join fronts and backs together at out-
I side seams, join halves of bib together.
4 ' Second part girl Hem bib, make and sew on bib-pocket, join fronts together,
I join bib to front. sew on backband, tack outside seams.
5 I Feller Join fronts and backs together at inside seams.
6 I Hemmer Hem bottoms of legs.
'7 II Examiner Examine all previous workmanship, check for defects in
goods. .
8 I Buttonholer Make fly (for first part girl), make buttonholes in strap
tabs, make side opening buttonholes, make buttonhole
for watch chain.
9 I Marker Mark for buttons.
10 | Button tacker Put on patent buttons.
11 I Strap maker Make suspenders or straps.
12 I Buckler Put slides and loops on straps.
13 I Sorter Sort all overalls by sizes, tie dozens after folding, pack in
I truck for stock room.
14 I Folder Put straps on bib, fold. stack in dozens of uniform size.


The overalls to be made up come from the cutting room in bundles
of twenty-fours, each bundle having in it all the parts which are
30
to be sewn together to make twenty-four complete overalls. There
is a tag with each bundle to show the lot. number, bundle number,
and blank spaces for the payroll. numbers of the operators who make
up particular parts. Each bundle is opened and the parts distrib-
uted to those operators who have particular things to do on them.
After an operator finishes her part of the work on each of the
twenty-four overalls, the parts on which she has worked are tied
into a bundle with the operator’s number written. on the card, and
turned in to the desk girl, who makes a record before giving out
the bundle to the next operator.
DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS
In actual factory production the overalls are made by units or
bundles of twenty-four pairs. The operator does some operations
singly. That is it is repeated twenty-four times before the next
operation is begun. Sometimes the operations go in pairs, that is,
it is best to do two of them on one piece of goods while it is under
the machine than to do only one before proceeding to a similar piece
of the next pair of overalls. Similarly it is possible to have oper-
ations grouped in threes, fours and perhaps fives. There is always
a great need for study to group these operations in the best way.
Where pieces are cut in pairs, as in sleeves, with rights and lefts it
is usual to go through an operation alternately 011 a right‘ and then
on a left or vice versa, until the twenty-four pairs of rights and lefts
have been put through.
In the detailed analysis which follows it is not always possible to
indicate exactly a factory process. The orders will appear as if
only one pair of overalls is being made, but the reader should be
able to visualize the process with a “factory eye.”
PAYROLL J OB~—POCKET GIRL
The pocket girl operates a two-needle machine, which sews two
rows of stitches about 1/4” apart. She makes and sews two hip-
pockets and a rule-pocket onto the backs of the overall.
1. Hem top edge of hip-pockets: Put pocket outside 011 machine
right side up. Fold 3/8” under and stitch once across.
2. Hem slanting face of rule pocket: As in 1.
3. Sew on left hip-pocket; Put left back in machine right side
up. Place pocket with top edge at punch-marks. Folding
under edge in front of the needle7 tack right top corner,
stitch around pocket to left top and tack.
Sew on right hip-pocket: As in 3, on right back.
Sew on rule-pocket: Place pocket just below right hip-pocket
even with outside edge of back. Folding in edges, tack and
sew down and around from side-seam corner to left top
corner then across top to slanting face and tack.
Div-i=-
31
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Material—hip and rule-pocket pieces, backs, white cotton thread.
Tools—two-needle fiat-bed machine, scissors.
Operations—hemming, folding under, turning in, separating,
pairing, stitching, tacking.
Location—top edge, right side of cloth up, slanting face, left
and right side of garment, punch-marks, right and left top
corners, below, outside edge, side seam.
Stock:
Recognition—plain blue, white or khaki denim, striped denim,
weight by description on tags, all parts by shape, rights and
lefts, No. 30 upper thread, No. 36 lower or loop thread.
\Vorking properties—cloth is heavy and somewhat stiff for fold-
ing, dulli'ng and breaking needles frequently.
Safety: Folding under and hemming is done with fingers, which
are protected by a needle guard.
Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing: None.
Mathematics: Folding under 3A,” by eye, spacing pockets side-
wise accurate to My” either way.
PAYROLL JOB—FIRST PART GIRL
The first-part girl makes and joins together various parts of both
fronts and backs of the overall, operating a one-needle machine.
Most of the work ‘is on the fronts, as the fly, swing pockets and fac-
ing of side openings. On larger sized overalls the cloth is not wide
enough to cut the backs out complete, so small triangular pieces
have to be added to the crotch or seat. The cutters make small
notches on edge of cloth at all necessary points to locate positions
for joining or folding.
1. Sew on seat-pieces: Put left back inside the machine wrong
side up, placing corresponding seat-piece beneath it right
side up, and seam edge extending out about %”. Stitch
once down and pull out the seat-piece from beneath into
place. Move back piece around to outside position on the
machine, fold edge of seat-piece seam flat and sew down
along the edge. Repeat with right back piece. Trim off
ends of seams. -
2. Hem side facings on backs: Put right back inside machine
wrong side up. Fold over hem for side opening 1/4” wide at
lower side notch and as far as notch on top of back. Stitch
down from top and out at bottom edge of hem (edging out).
Repeat with left back, sewing upwards from bottom of fac-
ing.
3. Sewing swing-pocket facings to drill: Put drill flat on ma
chine, inside of pocket face up. Lay denim facing on drili
32
right side up with angular corners and edges corresponding.
Stitch around inner edge of facing. Make rights and lefts
in pairs.
4. Make button side of fly: Place right front inside on machine
wrong side up. Fold over from side cut to notch on top.
Turn in edge of this facing and stitch from top down and
edge out at bottom.
5. Make button hole side of fly: Put left front inside on machine
wrong side up. Fold over from side cut to notch on top.
Lay fiy (see button-hole girl) over this fold with its folded
edge 1/16” inside the lower fold. Stitch from edge at bot-
tom end of fly up just back of the buttonholes straight out
at top edge. Trim off extra goods at top end.
6. Put swing pockets in fronts: Place left front outside on ma—
chine right side up. Lay drill for pocket fiat underneath
with inside of pocket face down, locating by notches on top
and side. Fold under from notch to notch to form oblique
facing for pocket, and stitch down 1A,” (a “foot”) away
from edge. Roll the entire front over onto inside of machine
wrong side up. Fold drill over to form the pocket, match
ing notches at lower side seam (pocket now inside out)
Stitch bottom of pocket from notches over to folded edge
and tack at end of run. Roll the front over pocket back
into outside position again. Pull drill pocket through itself
to bring right side in, and at the same time bring triangular
denim facing into position just beneath and squaring out
the shape of front at oblique edge of front pocket-facing.
Stitch across top edge of front and triangular facing. Lay
button-stay wrong side up on the front at side opening and
sew from top to bottom at edge. Fold stay-piece underneath
front, stitching up to top near the edge and return a “foot”
away for a double seam, tacking at bottom angle of swing
pocket in process of last downward seam. Repeat with right
front swing pocket.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Material—seat-pieces, backs, swing pocket drill, triangular
pocket facings, buttonhole fly, button-stay, white cotton
thread.
Tools—one-needle machine, scissors. *
Operations—folding under, folding over, hemming, edging out,
stitching, matching notches, pulling inside out, tacking.
Location—wrong and right side up, outside and inside on ma-
machine, on top and beneath, right and left, side openings,
a “foot” away, bottom angle of swing pocket, notches at cer-
tain points.
33
Stock:
Recognition—denim, drill, parts by shape. No. 30 upper, No. 36
lower thread.
\Vorking properties—nothing additional.
Safety: Nothing special.
Care of tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Measuring 3A,”, 1,4” and 1/16” by eye.
PAYROLL JOB—S-EAMER
The seamer operates a two-needle flat bed machine with folding
attachment, to join together certain parts of the overall before it
goes to the second stage of one-needle work.
1. Join right and left backs : Place backs in folder right side up,
stitching from top to crotch.
2. Join outside of legs: Put bottom ends of left front and back
outside and inside respectively on machine, right side up.
Insert in folder and sew from bottom to notch at side fac-
ing. (Side seams must always face back, that is, fronts
always over backs). Similarly put top ends at right front
and back in folder, sewing from notch at bottom of side facing
to-bottom of leg.
3. Seam bib: Put right and left halves right side up in. folder,
stitching from top to bottom.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—backs, fronts, bib-pieces, white and colored thread.
Tools—two-needle machine, folder, scissors.
Operation—seaming.
Location—right side up, fronts over backs, rights and lefts,
crotch, bottom, side facing notches, setting folder fair, and
forward or back to suit goods. \Vhite thread always in
needle, any color for lower or loop thread.
Stock:
Recognition—parts by shapes, No. 30 upper and N o. 36 lower
thread.
vWorking properties—nothing additional.
Safety: Nothing special.
Care of tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—SECOND PART GIRL
The second part girl continues with a single-needle machine the
joining work which was interrupted by the seaming process.
1. Hem bib: But bib inside on machine wrong side up. Fold
over and turn in a 3g” hem, stitching up right side of bib,
across top and down left side.
34
2. Ilem top and watch sides of bib-pocket; Lay pocket outside on
machine wrong side up. Fold top and watch side over and
stitch along edge returning a “foot.” away.
3. Sew pocket on bib: Put bib in machine right side up, and
place pocket in position on left half. Turn in edge opposite
watch side, tacking at top then sewing down and around
bottom to bottom of watch opening, and finishing with a
tack. Return a “foot” away for double seam to lower
back corner. Stitch obliquely up the back edge to a 1”
opening between steams, forming a pencil pocket. Tack top
of pencil-pocket seam and also at top of watch opening.
4. Tack top of side steams: Put garment in machine right side
up, making a cross tacking at bottom of each side opening.
Join fronts at bottom of fly: Lay parts right side up with
right inside and left outside on machine. Lay buttonhole
side over button side in position and turn in edge below fly
to (crotch. Sew up edge of turned in ‘part 1A” onto fiy.
Make a 1” cross tacking. Break thread and return to crotch
on wrong side, width of foot from edge.
6. Join bib to front: Put garment in machine right side up, lay-
ing buttonhole side of fly over button side in position. Stitch
across top of fly. Lay bib on top of garment wrong side up
with joining edges even. Put bib facing under garment
wrong side up, that is, with the three layers lying edges
even and like sides of cloth together. Join three layers to-
gether across top edge from right to left. Turn bib over
into position and sew back af‘foot” away from left to right
side. Turn garment over with wrong side up. Fold over
bib-facing into position and trim ends. Turn in edges of
bib-facing at ends and along top, sewing with a single seam
around edge.
7. Join backband to overalls: Lay two halves of backband in
machine right sides together and sew once across. Open
out full length and flatten seam edges. Put back of garment
in machine wrong side, up and lay back band over it wrong
side up with top edges even. Stitch once across. Fold back-
band over into position. Turn garment right side up in ma-
chine and fold backband over to cover last seam. Turn in
ends and lower edge and sew all around four edges of back-
band. \Vhen within about 6" of right end of backband in-
sert label under foot and sew once around it before com-
pleting seam.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—bib, bib-pocket, bib-facing, partly assembled overall
or garment, backband, label, white thread.
Tools—one-needle machine, scissors.
C4!
.
35
Operations-~hemming, folding over, turning in, tacking, sew-
ing, trimming, joining.
Location—right and wrong side up, like. sides together, outside
and inside on machine, a “foot” away, watch side, buttonhole
side, button side, top and bottom of fly, over and underneath,
crotch, backhand, right and left.
Stock:
Recognition—all parts by shapes, N o. 30 upper and No. 36 bob-
bin thread.
Vforking properties—nothing additional.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Measuring 3A,”, 34” and 1” by eye.
PAYROLL J OB—FELLER
The felling girl operates a special two-needle machine made with
its sewing head extending forward towards the operator, and clear
of the table tdge about twelve inches, thus making clearance for
pushing closed—in parts like legs or sleeves back past the needle
where they may gather around the arm-like bed. There is a folder
attachment which turns in the goods one side over the other. The
job is confined to closing in legs, sleeves and bodies of garments.
1. Put inside edges of bottom of right leg in folder right side out
(always fronts over backs), and stitch through to crotch and
continue down left leg to bottom.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials-—garment, white and black or khaki thread.
Tools—felling machine, folder, scissors.
Operations—~felling.
Location—right and left, bottom, crotch, right side. out. \Vhite
thread in needle, any color for lower or loop thread.
StOCk:
Recognition—garment, No. 30 upper, No. 36 lower thread.
Working properties—nothing additional.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—HEMMER
The hemming girl operates a one-needle special machine which
has a head pointing forward in advance of the table allowing the
overall leg to be pushed easily into place under the needle. A spe-
cial folder attachment turns in the bottom once then once again.
1. Hem bottoms of overall: Place bottom of leg of garment-
around bed. Put upper side into the folder and sew once
around. Repeat with other leg.
36
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms :
Materials—overall, white thread.
Tools-—one-needle special machine, scissors.
Operations—hemming.
Locatlon—bottom of overall leg.
Stock:
Safety and Care (of Tools:
Drawlng, Science and Mathematics:
No. 30 upper and No. 36 bobbin thread.
Nothing special.
None.
PAYROLL JOB—EXAMINER
The examiner inspects all previous workmanship on the overalls.
1.
f)
--1.
Fl?”
9.
10
Measure inseam to check length of leg with label.
Examine for straight seams, tackings, run-offs, raw edges, skip-
stitches on side facings, outside and inside seams and bottom
finish. Check even length of back and front of side open-
ings. I
Examine outside as in 2
bib and bib-pocket.
Examine inside as in 2 on fly, joining seam, seat pieces, bib-
facing, back seams and backband.
Examine outside as in 2 on hip and rule-pockets, seat-pieces,
back seam, backhand and label.
Measure waist size to check with label.
Snip all ravels and odd thread ends while in process of examin-
ing 2—5 above.
Chalk mark all repair work to be repaired and send to oper-
ators to repair.
Examine for tears or cuts, thin spots or other defects in goods.
Stamp label. on defective garments Hseconds.”
Re-examine all returned. repair work.
on joining seams, fly, swing pockets,
Auxiliary Information.
Trade Terms :
Materials—overalls, all parts by name.
Tools—yard-scale on edge of examining table, scissors, tailor ’s
chalk, rubber stamp and pad.
Operations—Examining, inspecting, checking, chalking, stamp-
ing, placing in repair box.
Location—All parts by name.
Special—--*Run~0ffs, skip stitches, raw edges, thin spots, straight
seams, lie even.
Stock :
Safety and Care of Tools:
Recognition—Parts differing in color by varying shades of blue
or khaki, weight of goods by its thickness.
\Vorking properties—None.
None.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Measuring on yard stick in inches.
PAYROLL JOB—BUTTONHOLER
The buttonhole girl has three separate jobs to perform on the
overalls. She prepares the button-side of fly for the first part girl.
She also puts buttonholes in the tabs of the suspender straps after
they are made but before they go to the bucklers. Lastly she puts
all needed buttonholes in the overall itself. The buttonhole machine
is a special, which sews all around where the hole is to be then cuts
the cloth. Some machines have a cording attachment which re-
inforces the edge of the hole with a heavy black cord bound inside
of the stitching. Holes are reinforced at side openings, on strap-
tabs, and for watch chain in bib, but the fly buttonholes are not
reinforced (done 011 a smaller machine). All machines make what
is called a pearl stitch, using number 30 thread.
1. Make buttonholes in fiy: Fold goods over lengthwise right
side out, with upper edge lying 1,4,,” inside the lower. Turn
fly over and mark the first of the lot with a gauge according
to its size for number and position of holes. (Others of that
size need not be marked.) Place in machine folded edge
first, marked side up and make the three or four holes in
series.
2. Make strap-tab buttonholes: Place tab end of suspender end-
wise into machine and make hole in center of the goods.
3. Make buttonholes on overall: Set garment in machine right
side up at desired position, making holes in the following
order—two at right side opening, one in bib for watch chain,
two at left side opening.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—overalls, straps, buttonhole fiys, reinforcing cord,
No. 30 thread in needle and bobbin.
Tools—special buttonhole machines, scissors, marking gauges.
Operations—folding over, marking, stitching holes.
Location—side openings, bib top, strap tabs.
StOGk:
Recognition—lot numbers by sizes.
\Vorking properties—nothing additional.
Safety and Care‘ of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing: Marking at notches in gauge.
Science: None.
Mathematics: Spacing holes by eye, correct to 14” on fly and
side openings, and to 1/8” on ends of backhand.
38
PAYROLL JOB—MARKER
The marker locates positions for buttons in advance of the patent-
button tacker.
1. Mark fly: Lay overall on table front side down, and turn
backband down- to expose inside of fly. Turn edge of button
side back over far enough to show part of buttonholes. Chalk
button side opposite each hole.
2. Mark side openings: Replace backband and straighten gar-
ment out fiat. Mark for button at middle of side openings.
Band buttons need none.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials--overalls.
Tools—tailor’s chalk.
Operations——laying out flat, folding back, marking.
Location-—button and‘ buttonhole. sides ‘of fly, side openings,
backband.
Stock: Nothing additional.
Safety and Care of Tools: ‘ None.
Drawing: Marking positions with chalk.
Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—BUTTON TACKER
The button girl operates a patent. tack button machine which
pushes the metal tack part of the button up through the cloth and
clinch es it inside the button proper. It carries magazines and dies
for two sizes, smaller ones for the fly and a larger size for sides
and suspenders. The magazines, called cups or turrets, are in
pairs, one feeding tacks and the other buttons down through the
ways to the dies.
1. Put on fiy buttons: Place front of button side up in machine
on small size die. Set according to mark and press treadle,
repeating at required number of marks.
2. Put on side and suspender buttons: Put overall under large
size die right side up, attaching buttons in the following or-
der: two at opposite corners of bib, two at left side open-
ing, two on backband for suspenders, two at right side open-
ing (all but lower side buttons put on without marks).
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—overalls, buttons and tacks.
Tools~special patent button tacker.
Operations—tacking.
Location—as in 2.above.
Stock: ‘
Recognition—buttons and tacks, each in separate cartons, sizes
indicated by “lines,” as 22-line or 27-line buttons.
39
Working 1firoperties—buttons jam in dies and miss hitting fair.
Safety: Use a wire to fish out jammed buttons. Pull off defec-
tive buttons with pliers and notched steel plate. I
Care of Tools: Change dies for different kinds of buttons.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Spacing buttons by eye correct to 1/4c” for sus-
penders, 1/16” for ends of bib—belt, and exactly on side marks.
PAYROLL J OB—STRAPMAKER
The strapmaker works up the suspenders completely with excep—
tion of buttonholes and wire slides and loops. She operates a one—
needle machine. :
1. Join web and tab: Cut elastic web into lengths. Lay tab-
piece inside on machine, wrong side up and fold over 343” of
outside edge. Lay end of web on this fold 3/8” from far
corner and tack the two together. Fold over nearest edge
to far edge, swing tab into outside position on machine and
sew across to 3/8” from edge. Turn in edges of both upper
and lower layers of tab then complete stitching. Turn in
side edges to end of tab and sew till 3/8” from bottom end of
tab. Turn in both layers of bottom end and complete stitch-
ing around and up folded edge to web.
2. Make straps and join to web: Place strap on machine wrong
side up. Fold over lengthwise far as side cut for strap
part. Turning in edges of both upper and lower layers along
side and at end, sew all around the double portion of strap.
Fold over opposite end of remaining part 1%", lay free end
of web over it and tack the two together. Repeat with an-
other strap, forming right and left of a pair.
3. Join straps together: Lay a pair one over the other right sides
together, and stitch the joining parts together in line with
folded edge of strap and tab. Pull out flat and lay wrong
side up. Lay facing piece right side up over the joining
seam. Turn in all four edges of facing and sew all around to
cover seams and complete the joining.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—elastic webs, top pieces, strap-pieces, facing-piece,
No. 30 and 36 white thread.
Tools—one-needle fiat-top machine, scissors.
Operations—~separating, tacking, folding over, turning in, stitch-
ing.
Location—right and left, joining part, right and wrong sides
up, No. 36 thread in bobbin.
Stock:
Recognition—elastic web in lengths of a dozen pieces trade
a
40
marked and spotted for separating with scissors. Cloth parts
by name and shape.
Working properties—nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Science: N one.
Mathematics: Measuring %” by eye.
PAYROLL J OB—BUOKLER
The buckle girl adds the wire loops and slides to suspender straps
after they have come from the buttonholer. The loop is the part
which hooks over the bib-button, and the slide is for adjusting length
of strap.
1. Put on slides and loops : Draw 10” or 12" of strap end through
slide over middle bar and about 6" back through slide again.
Put loop over free end of strap. Put this end up inside over
middle bar of slide and back inside below it with 1/2” free
end. Draw outer part of strap down through slide to hold
free end in place.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms :
Materials—straps, slides, loops.
Tools—none.
Operations—drawing through, sliding on.
Location—over and under middle bar of slide, inside and out-
side strap.
S’tOCk:
Recognition—strap end of suspender, loops and slides in cartons.
Working properties—straps stiff to pull through.
Safety and Care of Tools: None.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Measuring 10” or 12", 6" and 1/2” by eye.
PAYROLL .IOB—SORTER
The sorter may have two duties, the main one of sorting coming
first in preparation for the folders, and the second, tying up bundles,
following after the folders are through. If work is coming through.
in large volume this job may be divided on that basis so that the
sorter would be confined to the one operation only. It follows after
the button tacker is through.
1. Sorting overalls by sizes: Bring lots from bins to sorting
table. 7 Sort by waistsize and leg-length numbers on label.
Pile in stacks by sizes for folders.
2. Tie in dozens after folders: Hang a bunch tie strings about
neck. Place string around dozen near one end, slipping end
through the wire loop and drawing tight. Pull end into
grip of the Wire loop and put a half loop on to hold. Pack
tied dozens in elevator truck.
U
41
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials——overalls.
Tools—tying strings.
Operations—--sorting, stacking, tying, packing.
Location—sorting, stacking and folding tables.
Stock:
Recognition—label numbers indicating first waist size and sec-
ond length of leg in inches, as 40-31, 40-32, 38-32, 36-33, etc.
Working properties—nothing.
Safety and Care of Tools: None.
Drawing and Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—FOLDER
The folder, as the name indicates, arranges the overall into neat
and compact shape for packing, so folding it that the label sewn to
the right end of backband is easily seen by those handling the gar-
ment afterwards.
1. Folding: Lay overalls flat on table front up. Button strap
tabs to bib, and fold both under at belt line inside the gar-
ment. Fold right side to left side bringing label on top.
Reverse with label below and fold bottoms to belt. Stack in.
dozens of uniform size, half of stack being placed end for end
to balance its shape.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms :
Materials—overalls, suspend e'r straps.
Tools—none.
Operations—buttoning, folding, counting, checking sizes.
Location—inside, front down, front up, end for end.
Stock: Nothing additional.
Safety and Care of Tools:
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Counting in half and full dozens.
None.
Sleeping Wear Department
The sleeping garments for adults are made exclusively in this
department, which is the most extensive from standpoint of quantity
and variety of product. Four main types of garment are made,
nightgowns and shirts, pajama suits, pajunions, and pajunettes.
Some special garments are made such as heavy woolen, hooded, out-
door sleeping gowns, but these form a negligible item. In addition
to the different sizes in the four main lines, there are very many
varieties and designs of finish, so that operators are provided with a
great many changes.
on summer varieties of sleeping garments, and the summer is spent.‘
.0
During the winter season the factory works_
.
U
0.
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‘I.’
'
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. I
, 0
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42
in working up next winter ’s supply of flannel garments. In all there
are some 125 varieties of sleeping garments to make, ranging from
the extremely plain to the most ornate.
Ladies’ nightgowns, men ’s nightshirts, and pajamas are familiar-
enough to need no defining. The pajunions and pajunettes are fancy
styles of ladies’ sleeping wear made'somewhat after the fashion of
the men’s pajamas. The pajiunionl is a union of the pajama jacket
and pants into one garment, the joining being made at the waist,
and the jacket extending down around the body for 8” or 10” out-
side. The pajuznions are simply hemmed at the bottoms. Pajunettes
are the still more ornate styles, made in one piece, without the
jacket effect, and haviig elastic inserted at the bottoms, or being
completely footed. Various special machines are in use for briar-
stitching, hemstitching, wave-stitching, and the use of braid and
ribbons for trimming extends the scope of the department to an
unlimited degree.
lVinter garments are made almost exclusively of flannelette in
white, pinks and blues, either plain or with woven stripes of differ-
ing shades and colors. Summer garments are made from prints,
cambrics, silks, satins, soisette and other trade names for products
of cotton and silk.
The cut goods come from the cutting room in bundles of twenty-
four. All accessory materials like braid, ribbon, loops, buttons, etc.,
are brought in boxes or crates from the stores department where
they were assembled according to the descriptive sheet ready for


No. I Payroll Job Work Jobs
1 I Girdle maker Pants-Make girdles.
I J acket——0.
2 I Seamer Pants—make outseams, sew on seat-pieces, join backs.
I J acket-—0. ‘
3 First part girl Pantfs—Hem or tassel ends of girdle, make fly, hem top, join
ronts.
J acket—Make yoke and neck-facings, sew on pocket, join
I shoulders, sew on yoke, hem fronts.
4 I Sleeve piecer Pants—0.
I J acket- ~J oin sleeve-pieces.
5 I Sleeve maker Pants—~0.
I Jacket—Sew on cuffs. tack at wrist.
6 I Examiner Pants—Inspect previous workmanship.
J acket—Inspect previous workmanship.
7 Bundle boy Pants—0.
I J acket~—h/Iatch sleeve and body bundles.
8 I Sleever Pants—0.
I Jacket—Join sleeves to body.
9 I Feller Pants—Fell inseams.
I J acket—Fell sleeves and sides.
10 I Marker Pants—Mark for fly buttons.
I Jacket—Mark for buttonholes, mark for buttons.
11 I Loop girl Pants~—O,
I Jacket—Sew loops or frogs on front.
12 I Hemmer Pants—Hem bottoms.
I J acket—Hem bottom.
13 I Examiner Pants—0.
I _ Jacket—Inspect sleeving, felling, hemming, and loops.
14 I Buttonholer PantswMake buttonholes in fly.
I J acket—Make buttonholes through loops.
15 I Button sewer Pants—Sew on fiy buttons.
I J acket—-Sew on front buttons.

43
_use when called for. Many of these accessories are in lot-lengths
and require to be cut into individual pieces by the operator when
needed. '
For purposes of getting instructional material in the operation of
this department it will be sufficient to make a study of two typical
standard garments—the pajama suit, and night gown. The night
gown has one-piece fronts and backs with yoke construction, while
the pajama suit has open coat and pants construction.
An airplane view of the making of a typical pajama suit will show
the organization outlined on page 42.
DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS
The fact that there are two parts to the suit makes it possible to
organize production on the parts individually or with the suit as a
unit. Of two first part girls, one may work exclusively on pants and
the other on jackets, or each may work on both parts. The organi-
zation scheduled above may be used either way. In the analysis
which follows, the form adopted will be simply an expansion of the
outline just presented. The form may appear to read as if but one
suit is being made. In all cases it is necessary to interpret quan-
tity production on the basis of units or bundles of twenty-four. In
some cases one single operation will be done on each of twenty-four
pieces of the garment. Sometimes the operator will do two oper-
ations on the piece while it is in the machine before taking the next
similar piece. In this way she may have studied and experimented
until she has found for herself that pieces may have one, two, three
or four operations performed while going through once, according
to conditions, parts, and her own skill. This study results in higher
speed, and consequently higher wages on the piece—rate basis.
Sleeves and other duplicate parts usually go through in pairs, that is,
one operation done on a right will be done perhaps in a reverse order
on the left before the next right is put under the machine.
It should be noted particularly that auxiliary information which is
common to all payroll jobs and work jobs has not been repeated each
time a job is analyzed. The words “nothing additional,” “nothing
special,” or “none” do not mean that if a girl is being taught some
particular payroll job where such words are used descriptively, she
has nothing on these points to be taught. It does mean that for
sake of saving endless repetition of this data, it has been stated
elsewhere in this study as common or general auxiliary knowledge,
which must be taught to this girl now, and that on these items there
is no special information peculiar to this job which requires teach-
ing in addition to the general facts. This general information
includes instruction on properties of materials used, on operating
principles of machines, on their care, and 011 factory procedure and
organization.
41-4
PAYROLL JOB—GIRDLE MAKER
The girdle maker operates a special two-needle machine and folder.
It is used also for making what is called continuous facing, but the
work is identical except for length of the pieces put through. The
needles are spaced about five-eighth inches apart, and the folder
doubles the cloth strip over, turns in both raw edges forming a strap
about 3A” wide which is then sewed along the edges. The girdles
are sewn in half-lengths and are joined by the first part girl later.
A. Pants:
1. Make girdles: Feed strips of cloth into the folder. Count out
bundles of 48 half-lengths.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—girdle stock, thread.
Tools-——special two-needle fiat—bed machine, scissors.
Operations—feeding the folder, counting out bundles.
Location—setting folder fair, keeping edges of stock running
out against the edge of folder.
Stock:
Recognition—girdle: pieces by shape, No. 80 white thread.
\Vorking properties Nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Science :, None.
Mathematics: Counting in forty-sights.
B. Jacket: Nothing.
PAYROLL .IOB—SEAME'R
The seamer operates a two-needle fiat-bed machine with folder.
The operations have to do with preparing the pants for the first part
girl. With extra large sizes of pajama pants it becomes necessary to
cut and make with anoutseam, but otherwise there is none. This job
is done first if'needed, and the leg piece treated thereafter as if there
were no scam in it.
A. Pants:
1. Make outseams if required: Lay front part of right leg inside
and back part outside on machine right side up. Place in
folder and sew from; top to bottom of seam. Lay parts of
left leg in same relation, but sew from bottom to top.
2. Sew on'seat-pieces: Put right leg outside on machine, right
side up, and insert in lower part of folder. Place correspond-
ing seat-piece in upper part of folder, sewing from bottom
upwards. Put left leg inside on machine right side up, and
insert in upper part of folder. Place corresponding seat-
piece in lower part of folder and sew from bottom upwards.
3. Seam right and left legs together at back: Put right and left
legs in lower and upper parts of folder as they lie at finish
of operation 2 above. Stitch from crotch to top of goods.

45'
B. J acketi Nothing.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—leg-pieces, seat-pieces, thread.
Tools—two-needle flat top machine, scissors.
Operations—seaming, joining.
Location—top and bottom of outseams, seat-piece seams, joining
seam, crotch.
Stock:
Recognition—parts by name and shape, No. 80 white thread.
Working properties-nothing additional.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—FIRST PART GIRL
The first part girl does a number of single needle operations. On
the pants she practically finishes the garment, since it only remains
to have the bottoms hemmed and the buttons sewn on the fly after
it leaves this machine. On the jacket she does all the single needle
work. In a sense therefore the name of the payroll job is a mis-
nomer, since there is no second part or stage of single needle work
to be done as there is in making the gown. The name sticks how-
ever, because it is single needle construction which constitutes the
main part of making all garments.
A. Pants:
1. Hem, or hem and tassel, ends of girdle: If simply hemmed,
fold over 1/2” and once again, sewing across and tacking. If
a tassel is added, lay base of tassel on hem before sewing a
box tack.
2. Make fly: Put left front of garment outside on machine right
side up. Lay buttonhole fiy (see buttonholer) over with its
raw edge even with raw edge of front, and top end 1/2” above
the lower of two notches on front edge, near the top corner.
Sew 3/8” from raw edges, starting at bottom and ending at
top of buttonhole piece. Lay left front inside on machine
wrong side up. Fold fly over so as to bring its folded edge
just even with folded edge of goods to which it is sewn. Turn
in back edge of fly and sew from bottom end clear through
to top of garment. Put button side outside on machine
wrong side up. Lay button-stay underneath wrong side up
with edges even and top end at upper of two notches on
front edge of button-side. Sew along edges from bottom of
stay to lower of two notches on front edge of button side,
then sew from this notch across button-stay until 1/2” from
its inner edge. Tack end of this run. Out with scissors
through two layers of goods across the button-stay just above
the last seam and as far as the tacking. Trim out the por-
46:
tion of button-stay only above the out just made. Turn button
stay inside out until seam comes to edge, pushing angle of seam
out square with tip of finger. Lay button side at inside posi-
tion wrong side up, and sew up along outer edge of button-
stay as far as top corner, then in across the end as far as it
was cut away. Fold ever part of right front which lies at
top end of the stay as far as it was cut with scissors, and
continue the seam up this folded edge to top of garment.
Return a seam down a “foot” away from this edge to top
of button stay. Turn in back edge: of button-stay and con-
tinue this seam down to bottom of stay.
3. Put in girdle: Lay garment in machine wrong side up and
stitch down at joining seam (middle of back) about 1”.
Overlap ends of two half-lengths of‘ girdle under the needle
at this point and tack them to garment. Fold top edge of
garment over the girdle, forming a wide hem lying exactly
between the two notches on front edge of buttonhole side.
Turn in lower edge and tack corner of hem. Sew clear
through lower edge of top hem until 1” from end of right
or button side. Stich label under lower edge of hem at this
point and continue seam to edge of garment with a tack.
(Care is needed to see that girdle is not sewn in with the hem
at any point.)
4. Join fronts below fly: Check position from top hem of gar-
ment, laying outsides of fronts together and fly edges even.
Sew from lower end of fly to crotch 3/8” from raw edges.
Pull garment out flat on machine, right side up, and sew
over this last seam from crotch back to fly. Tack bottom
of fly crosswise. Sew back from fly to crotch a “foot”
, away to catch raw edges of hem beneath.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms: _
Materials—garment (leg-pieces joined at back), fiy, button-stay,
half-length girdles, tassels, label, thread.
Tools—one-needle flat bed machine, scissors.
Operations—hemming, folding over, turning in, turning inside
out, tacking, trimming, checking, joining.
Location—left and right fronts, outside and inside on machine,
right and wrong side up, top and bottom of fly, folded and
raw edges of fly, lower of two front notches, outer and inner
angles at top of button stay, top edge at joining seam, bottom
of fly, crotch, a “foot” away.
Stock:
Recognition—all parts by name and shape, No. 80 white thread.
Working properties—nothing additional.
Safety: Needle guard on the foot prevents fingers from getting
under the point.
47
Care of Tools—Nothing special.
Drawing and Science: Nothing special.
Mathematics: Measuring 1/2”, 1”, 3A,” by eye correct to 1/8”.
B. Jacket: '
l. Sew labels and size tab on yoke: Cut apart with scissors and
fold or crease under ends of labels. Place yoke in machine
right side up, and put label in position 1” from middle of
top edge. Sew all around label, inserting size tab under one
end.
2. Sew front or neck facings on yoke: Place yoke outside on
i machine right side up. Lay left shoulder facing on yoke
wrong side up with notched end at shoulder edge of yoke,
edges even, and stitch towards neck 3/8” from raw edges.
Repeat with right shoulder facing, sewing from neck to
shoulder. Cut threads.
3. Make and sew on pocket: _ Lay pocket in machine wrong side
up. Fold over top edge as far as side notches, turn in edge
for hem and sew once across.’ Put left front in machine
right side up. Lay pocket in position with top edge opposite
bottom of armhole and front edge in line with meeting point
of neck and shoulder edges. Vary position nearest distance
sidewise to match stripes. Box top corner at armhole, turn-
in edge, and sew around bottom to front top with a box
finish to scam.
4. Join fronts to back: Lay back outside on machine wrong side
up. Place right front on top, right side up, with its shoulder
edge 14” inside shoulder edge of back. Stitch across a
“foot” away from shoulder edge of front, sewing toward
neck. Repeat with left front, sewing from neck to arm-
hole. Pull garment out flat with fronts at inside position
right side up. Fold raw edge in, and sew from armhole to
neck. Repeat with right shoulder, sewing from neck to
shoulder. _
5. Join yoke and neck facings to garment: Lay garment outside
on machine right side up. Fold over upper end of left front
hem as far as notch. Refold over 3/8” of this hem and press
flat. Lay left neck-facing and yoke over these hem folds, wrong
side up with shoulder seams of yoke and body part matching
and neck edge 1/8” below neck edge of body. Sew from left
front edge around neck until 4" from right front edge. Fold
over top of right front edge as far as notch and refold over
3/8”. Lay these front hem folds under the right end of the
neck-facing then continue the seam to right front edge. Trim
off front end of facings. Snip raw edge of the neck at inter-
vals with scissors so that in next operation it will lie flat.
Turn yoke and facings over to inside position on body (or
turn neck seam inside out), pushing the angles or points of
48
front hems out sharp and definite on the closed end of scis~
sors.
6. Finish front hems and neck facings: Lay garment 011 machine
wrong side up and flatten out the neck seam all around.
Tack at right front angle or point then sew a “foot” away
from neck edge clear around to left front point. Continue
this seam down left front hem a “foot” away from folded
edge to bottom of jacket. Turn in back edge of left front
hem and sew up from bottom to edge of neck-facing. Turn
in lower edge of neck facings and yoke, sewing around to
right front and down to bottom of jacket on back edge of
right front hem. (The right front has no seam a “foot”
away from edge, as it is the button side and is covered over
when buttoned up.)
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—labels, size-tabs, yokes, neck facings, fronts, pocket
pieces, backs, thread.
Tools——one-needle flat top machine, scissors.
Operations—cut apart, crease, join, box, turn in, fold over, re-
fold over, trim, snip, turn inside out.
Location—top edge of yoke, notched end of neck facings, out-
side and inside on.‘ machine, wrong and right side up, edges
even or offset Mg” or 1A”, opposite left armhole, below meet-
ing point of neck and left shoulder edges, facings over top
ends of front hem folds, facings inside on body, angles or
points at top of front hems, a “foot” away from edge, bottom
of front hems, back edge of front hems, front hem notches.
SilOCk:
Recognition—-all parts by name and shape, No. 80 white thread
Working properties—nothing special.
Safety: Nothing special beyond needle guard.
Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Measuring 1/8” exact, 1A” accurate to 1/16”, 3/8”
accurate to 1A1” and 1” accurate to 1/1,” by eye.
\
PAYROLL JOB—SLEEVE PIECER
The sleeve piecer operates a two~needle flat bed machine with
folding attachment. Her duty is to join the sleeve parts with a
seam running lengthwise of the arm. Sleeves come in two parts
because they can be cut to advantage from the goods in that way,
and the cost of piecing them is not so great as the loss of goods
would be if cutting them in wholes. These seams must always be
run so as to face the back.
A. Pants: Nothing.
49
B. Jacket:
1. Put pieces of right sleeve in the machine right side up with
front piece at inside position. Sew from shoulder to wrist.
Repeat with left sleeve sewing from wrist to shoulder.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—sleeve pieces, thread.
Tools—two-needle machine with attachment, scissors.
Operations—joining. _
Location--right side up, front piece inside on machine, right
and left, wrist and shoulder ends.
Stock:
Recognition—sleeve parts by size and shape. No. 80 white
thread.
Working properties—nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing additional.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—SLEEVE MAKER
The sleeve maker uses a one-needle machine without folder. Her
work is to put on the cuff and tack the ends of the cuff together
ready for the feller. The latter operation, however, does not come
until after the sleeve has been put in the garment. That is, the
sleeve is sewn in after the cuff is on, but while the shoulder end is
still in the flat. Cuffs may be just plain bands or they may have
angular points or curved lines for their upper edges. In the ir-
regular designs the widest part of the cuff is placed on the upper
side or back of the arm.
A. Pants: Nothing.
B. Jacket:
1. Put cuff on sleeve: Put left sleeve outside on machine wrong
side up. Lay cuff on top wrong side up, straight edges even,
and widest part towards back of sleeve. Sew across a “foot”
away from edge. Repeat with right sleeve. Fold cuff over
into outside position with seam exactly at edge, and crease
goods flat. Put sleeve outside on machine right side up and
sew across a “foot” away from edge of cuff. Swinging
sleeve to inside position right side up, turn in and sew along
upper edge of cuff. Trim off ends of cuff even with sleeve.
Repeat with right sleeve.
2. Tack ends of cuff : Put sleeve outside on machine wrong side
up, and cuff end furthest off. Fold outer end of cuff over
and in until 1,4” from inner end. Tack 1/2” along this upper
raw edge and edge out.i Fold the l/J,” lower extension over
to meet the upper tacked edge, and fold over once more
making a hem about 3/16” wide. Sew a box tack 1" long
in this hem. This holds cuff, and makes a starting place for
50
the felling machine. This operation is identical for both
right and left sleeves, no account being taken of the direction
which the felled seam faces, both being started at the cuff.
Arrange sleeves in pairs.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms ::
Materials—sleeves, cuffs, thread.
Tools—-one-needle machine, scissors.
Operations—cuffing, hemming, tacking, edging out.
Location—outside and inside on machine, right and wrong side
up, right and left sleeves, back or outer side of sleeve, shoulder
and wrist ends.
Stock:
Recognition—sleeves right and left by seam, cuffs right and left
by shape, No. 80 thread.
Working properties-nothing additional.
Safety: Needle guard on foot of machine.
Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Science :. None.
Mathematics: Measuring 1A,”, 3/16”, 1/3”, 1” by eye, a “foot”
away.
PAYROLL J OB——EXAMINER
At this stage the examiner receives the jacket bodies from the
first part girl and the sleeves from the sleeve maker in separate
bundles. They are each inspect-ed before going to the sleever.
A. Pants:
1. Examine pants: Check length of sides and evenness of fly.
Inspect all seams for runoffs, skips and raw edges. Look for
defects in goods. -
B. Jacket:
1. Examine sleeves: Inspect piecing seam, looking for straight
seams, runoff, skip stitches and raw edges. Inspect cuffs
for similar things, and also for width of tacked he-m to see
that it is not too wide for the folder of the felling machine.
2. Examine jacket body: (‘heck for 'even distance on each side
of neck from shoulder seam to front points. Check length
of front heme and see that they are of uniform width. Check
position Olf pocket. Look in all three cases for runoffs, skip
stitches, raw edges, and for defective goods.
3. Report to forelady all imperfect garments for repair.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—pants, jacket bodies, sleeves.
Tools—none.
Operations—checking lengths, inspecting seams.
Location—Fall parts of garment by name.
51
S1:>ecial-runoifs, skip stitches, raw edges.
StOCk :
Recognition—all parts of garment by name.
Working properties—nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: None.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Measuring uniform widths by eye, measuring 3/16”
boxed hem by eye.
PAYROLLJOB—THDHHJlBOY
The sorter or bundle boy takes bundles of jacket bodies and
sleeves in the racks and carefully checks body and sleeve bundles
by numbers on so that the sleever will get mated bundles tied
together. Each heretofore were coming through the processes en-
tirely independent of each other, and must now be checked for“ as-
sembling.
A. Pants: Nothing.
B. Jacket:
1. Sort and tie bundles together: Find two bundles in bins hav-
ing tags with identical lot and bundle numbers. Tie same
_ together. Place in bin.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—bundles.
Tools—tie strings.
Operations—sorting, tying.
Location—position of bins containing certain lot numbers.
Stock:
Recognition—tags by lot and bundle numbers.
Safety and Care of Tools: None.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLLJOBMSLEEVER
The sleever operates a two-needle flat bed machine with folder
She joins sleeves to bodies. '
A. Pants: Nothing.
B. Jacket:
1. Join sleeves to body: Snip raw edges of armhole at various
points to help it spread in seam. Lay body inside on machine
right side up, and sleeve in right position on outside. Sew
left sleeve from front to back of armhole and right sleeve
from back to front (seam facing sleeveward).
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—bodies, sleeves, thread.
Tools—one-needle machine, scissors.
Operations—joining, snipping.
52
Location—edge of armhole, outside and inside on machine, right
side up, front and back of armhole, seam faces sleeve, right
and left sleeve.
StOOk :
Recognition-body, right and left sleeve, No. 80 thread.
Working properties—nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Mathematics: None.
Science: Reversing edge of shoulder goods back into the seam
requires that it take a larger circumference of a circle, that is,
the edge must expand. If not snipped it will not expand but
will draw and poicker. The snipping allows goods to open
up at the cuts and thus lie flat.
PAYROLL .IOB—FELLER
The felling girl runs a two-needle special machine with a folder.
The head extends forward from edge of table about 10” or 12", and
the bed is small and round like an arm so that sleeves may be pushed
back over it when joined into tubular shape. The work consists of
closing sleeves and bodies. ‘’
A. Pants: Nothing.
B. Jacket:
1. Fell sleeve and body seams: Insert tacked end of cuff behind
the folder under the needle. Bring edges in through the
scrolls to position. Sew from cuff to armhole then down
side of body to bottom. Repeat with other sleeve.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—jacket, thread.
Tools two-needle special with folder, scissors.
Operations—felling.
Location—cuff behind folder, sleeve edges in folder, armhole,
bottom of jacket.
Stock :' Nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing additional.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.

PAYROLL JOB—MARKER
The marking girl has two stages or operations on the jacket, and
one on the pants. In the former she must mark position of loops,
then after the buttonholes are sewn through the loops she marks for
the buttons. /
A. Pants:
1. Mark for fly-buttons: Lay garment fiat on table front up.
Turn back edge: of outer or buttonhole fiy until holes are
partly exposed. Mark opposite them on button side.
B. Jacket:
1. Mark for loops or frogs: Lay garment flat on table front up.
Select pattern by size number on label sticker and place over
left front hem. Mark at notches in pattern with pencil or
chalk.
2. Mark for buttons ( at a later time on this garment) : Lay gar-
ment flat on table facing up. Put loop side over button side
in exact position and mark through buttonholes with pencil
or chalk.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—pants, jackets.
Tools—black pencil or colored to show on various colors of
prints, pattern.
Operations—‘marking.
Location—buttonhole and button side of fly, loop and button
side of jacket, fronts up.
Stock: Nothing additional.
Safety and Care of Tools: Do not waste pencil or chalk.
Drawing: Marking positions.
Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—LOOP GIRL
The loop girl sews the loops or frogs on the buttonhole side of the
jacket at marks indicated. The loops are made of fancy braid and
are already tacked into shape, so that they can be sewed with a row
of stitching all around, following middle of the braid except around
the buttonhole part, where the stitching is along the inner edge to
insure neat buttonhole.
A. Pants: Nothing.
B. Jacket:
1. Lay left front hem on machine right side up. Placeloop over
mark and follow all around the braid with a row of stitching.
Repeat as many times as marked.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—jacket, loops or frogs, thread.
Tools~—one-needle machine, scissors.
()perations——stitching.
Location—front hem, right side up.
Stock:
Rec(ignition—thread in color to be inconspicuous on loops.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
04
r
PAYROLL JOB—HEMMER
The hemming girl operates a single needle flat bed machine with-
out folder, and hems the bottom of both pants and jackets.
A. Pants:
1. Hem bottoms: Place leg of garment inside 011 machine draw-
ing back the upper part so to expose lower part against
the bed wrong side up. Fold over 3/8” then over again for
a 3/4” hem. Stitch once around along the turned in edge.
Repeat with other leg.
B. Jacket:
1. I—Iem bottom: Place garment inside 011 machine wrong side
up. Fold over 34” hem, turning in the raw edge and stitch-
ing.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—pants, jacket, thread.
Tools—one-needle machine, scissors.
Operat-ioils—hemming, folding over, turning in.
Location—bottom of garments.
Stock:
Recognition—N0. 80 white thread.
Working properties—nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Measuring 3/8” and 3A” by eye.
PAYROLL J O‘B—EXAMIN ER
The jacket is returned to the examiner after it has been sleeved,
felled, looped and hemmed, so that these operations may be in-
spected.
A. Pants : Nothing.
B. Jacket :
1. Examine jacket: Inspect seams at. shoulder, felling seams,
loops and bottom hems for straightness, runoffs, skips and
raw edges.
Auxiliary Information
(See under first stage of examining this garment.)
PAYROLL JO‘B—BUTTONHOLER
The buttonhole machine is a special automatic machine which
sews a pearl stitch all around the position where the buttonhole is
to be,then cuts through the cloth inside the stitches. Its head stands
forward somewhat from the table so that garments can be readily
put in the foot in any required position. This foot moves forward
and back, carrying the goods with it, and its mlotion may be ad-
justed to any length of buttonhole required. The work consists of
two jobs which are timed widely apart in the making of the pajama
55
suit, the buttonhole fly being required at the beginning of making
the pants, and the jacket coming almost at the end.
A. Pants:
1. Make buttonhole fly: Fold piece along the middle lengthwise,
wrong sides in, and put into the machine. Number of holes
is indicated by a table of sizes. The spacing of these is a
matter of judgment and is generally arbitrarily set by notic-
ing where the end of the fly or the last buttonhole made lies
with respect to some part of the bed of the machine. There
is no divided scale of any kind on the machine for spacing
buttonholes.
B. Jacket:
1. Sew buttonholes in jacket: Put one of the loops, which have
already been sewn over the front hem at marks indicated
by the marker, under the machine right side up. Repeat in
any desired order with remaining loopsf
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—fiy-pieces, jacket, thread.
Tools—special machine, scissors.
Operations—folding, buttonholing.
Loca.tion——1niddle of fly, front hem.
Stock:
Recognitionwfiy-pieces by shape, No. of thread.
\Vorking properties—nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science or Mathematics: Spacing buttonholes by eye,
accurately to 14” lengthwise of goods and 1/16” crosswise.
PAYROLL JOB—BUTTON SEWER
The button sewing machine is a special machine with its head
standing forward from edge of table. The buttons are placed in
the upper part of the foot, and the garment in the lower part of this
same foot. The whole foot is controlled by a cam which makes it
move sidewise back and forth just the distance between holes in the
button, and keep time exactly with the needle. If four-hole buttons
are used a second cam is brought into use which compounds the side-
wise motion with a back and forward motion at the same time. This
brings the needle first over two holes in a diagonal direction, and
then over the other two diagonally. The record of number of but-
tons sewn on is made by an automatic counter attached to the ma-
chine.
A. Pants:
1. Sew buttons on fly: Spill buttons from carton conveniently
on bed of machine to right of needle. Put one in foot of
machine. Place button side of fly right side up in foot of
56
B.
Sew until it has
Repeat with other positions.
machine with mark under center of button.
been sufficiently well attached.
Jacket:
1. Sew buttons on jacket: Put button in foot. Lay button side
of front in foot with mark under center ofbutton. Sew until
judged sufficiently attached. Repeat with balance of posi-
tions.
Auxiliary Information
suit is now complete.
de
de
gown.
Trade Terms:
Materials—buttons, pants, jacket, thread.
Tools—special machine, scissors.
Operationswbutton sewing.
Location—button side of fly and jacket front.
StOGk:
Recognition—-.1t)ear1 buttons by sizes in cartons, No. 80 white
thread.
Working properties—nothing special.
Safety: Nothing special.
Care of Tools; Buttons must be placed fair, that is with holes in
a line parallel with back of foot, otherwise needle will strike
“off” and break.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
So far as the sleeping wear department is concerned the pajama
The departmental product is checked by the
sk girl, and goes down the chute to the folding department.

The second of two typical garments which are to be described in
tail as a part of the sleeping wear department product is the night
The type selected will be a plain white flannelette with
double front and back yokes, the front yoke being trimmed with
br
aid and hem stitching. Sleeves will be full length and cuffed.
A skeleton outline of the making of this nightgown follows:

No. | Payroll Job Work Jobs
1 I First part girl Join lining and upper front yokes together, sew on braid.
Hem front opening. Sew front yokes to body, sew label
on back lining-yoke, join back lining-yoke to body, join
front and back yokes.
2 Hemstitcher Hemstitch around edge of braid.
3 Sleeve piecer Piece sleeves.
4 Sleeve maker Put cuffs on sleeves.
5 Examiner Inspect previous workmanship on bodies and sleeves.
6 Bundle boy Sort bundles of sleeves and bodies to match.
7 Sleever Join sleeves to body.
8 Feller Close in sleeves and bodies.
9 Hemmer Hem bottom.
10 Examiner Inspect finished garment.
,11 Marker Mark for buttonholes and buttons.
12 Buttonholer Make buttonholes.
13 Button sewer Sew on buttons.
14 Buttoner Button up garment.


57
DETAIL-EDI JOB ANALYSIS
As in the pajama jackets, it will be noted that after the bundles
come vfrom the cuttii'ig r'oon'i, the sleeve parts areseparated from the
others, and two sub-bundles are made with identical numbers on the
These run ‘through separately, the. bodies going to operators
1 and 2, and the‘ sleeves to and 4, then both to voperator =5 separately,
after which they are mated into one bundle again by the bundle boy.
PAYROLL J OB—FIRST PART’ GIRL
The first part .girl uses a one-needle machine and is employed ex-
clusively on the yoke construction. In plain yokes her work is
coiiitinuous, but when certain kinds. of fancy stitching are added,
the operations are iijiterrupted by this extra work which is‘ done
upon other machines by other. operators and then returned for com-
pletioii-i. In the case of the garment being-described, the first part
girl joins the. front lining and upper yokes together and sews tlr.
braid vto the upper yoke according to whatever design has D661.
written into the specification for that lot number. It, then goes to
the hemstitcher and returned for further processes by the first
part girl.
1. Join front upper and lining yokes: Put right half of upper
yoke outside on machine wrong side up. Lay correspond
‘ing lining yoke on top with wrong side up (i. e. parts both
rights together). ‘Sewv along neck edge a “foot” away as
far as bottom of front edge of yoke. Turn parts right sides
"out and press seam fiat. Lay yoke on machine right side up.
Place braid in position va uniform distance from neck and
bottom edges, cutting angles and sewing along all edges.
Repeat with left front yoke. _
Hem opening of body front: Lay front on machine wrong
side up. Fold over right ‘or buttonhole side as far as notch
on top edge and uniform width to bottom of opening. Turn
in the edge‘ and sew along it from, top to bottom of ‘opening.
Swing garment in machine, repeating with left or button
side, but sewing from bottom to top.
Join front yoke-s to body front: Lay right half outside on
machine with lining yoke up and bottom edge towards right.
Fold backthe front ‘or upper- yoke underneath far enough to
escape being sewn in. Lay body front over right half of
yoke right side up and sew to lining yoke from armhole to
1” from notch. Arrange pleat at. notch, facing towards arin-
hole and wide enough to bring front hem even ‘with front
line of yoke. Complete seam to front edge. Repeat with
left front yoke, but work from front opening to ari’nhole.
Pull out both yokes from beneath into position, laying uppei
front yoke over the body front and turning in the lower edg<
to cover seam‘. Sew from right shoulder joining armhole
58
edges together as far as body, then across to right front.
Repeat with left part, but work from front hem to armhole
then up left armhole to shoulder.
Box bottom of front opening: Put body front in machine
right side up. Lay right front hem over left, checking
length from neck to bottom. Sew a box tack at lower end.
5. Sew label on back lining yoke: Lay back lining yoke in ma-
chine right side up. Place label 1” from. top edge at middle
and size tab under one end. Sew all around edge of label.
6. Join lower back yoke to body: (Note: This operation re-
quires a single folder and also the use of a gathering attach-
ment to take up the extra width of goods in the body back
just at the middle of the yoke.) Lay body outside on ma-
chine wrong side up. Lay back lining, yoke inside 011 ma-
chine body side up. Insert yoke in folder. Work from
right armhole to say 2” from middle of back. Start gather-
ing attachment and allow it to operate~until body and yoke
are both taut between needle and hands which hold parts at
left armhole. Stop gathering attachment and continue seam
to end.
'7. Join back and front yokes at shoulders: Lay body back out-
side on machine wrong side up with lining yoke out in posi-
tion. Lay body front over it right side up with shoulder
edges of front parts of yoke and back lining yoke even.
Lay upper back yoke wrong side up over front yoke with
shoulder edges even. Sew a “foot” away from shoulder
edges, working from right armhole around back of neck to
left armhole. Pull out body back from beneath to inside
position on machine and right side up. Pull upper back yoke
over so as to cover its own lining yoke. Sew along shoulder
seam from right armhole, then a “foot” away around back
of neck, then along shoulder seam to left armhole. Turn in
bottom edge of upper back yoke to cover seam, and stitch
across from right sleeve opening to left. -
.4:-
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—front and back yoke pieces, back and front of body,
thread, braid, label and size tab.
Tools—single-needle machine, folder, gatherer, scissors.
Operations—joining, hemming, boxing, gathering, turning in.
Location—upper and lower (or lining) yokes, right and left
halves of front yoke, back yoke, top edge of body front and
body back, right and left armholes, shoulder, neck and lower
edges of yoke, right and wrong side up, inside and outside
on machine, pleat and pleat notches, a’ “foot” away, pleats
facing towards armhole, front opening.
59
Stock:
Recognition—yoke and body parts by shape, colors and stripes,
No. 60 white thread.
Working properties—stitch may be made longer in flannel be-
cause the soft goods allows it to sink out of sight.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing additional.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Judging accurately to 1,41.” the distance from cen-
ter to start gatherer so as to have the gathered portion of
body back centrally spaced.
PAYROLL J OB—HE-MSTITCHER
This operator runs a special machine which requires six threads,
two being colored floss and four the usual cotton. Just in front of
the needle is a plunger which separates the fibres of the goods. The
sewing threads below and above hold these openings permanently
in shape and at the same time enclose the colored floss along the
edges. It is entirely-an automatic process.
1. Hemstitch halves of front yoke: Lay piece in machine right
side up. Sew through the goods just along and outside of
the edge of the braid.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—halves of front yoke, thread, colored floss.
Tools—special machine, scissors.
Operations——hemstitching.
Location—right side up, just outside edge of braid.
Stock:
Recognition—right and left halves of front yoke, No. 60 thread,
colored floss by shades.
Working properties—nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—SLEEVE PIECER
The sleeve piecer operates a two-needle machine with folder.
Sleeves come in most cases from the cutting room in two parts or
pieces and these have to be sewn together.
1. Piece sleeves: Lay first sleeves in machine right side up, so
that back of sleeve lies at outside position (that is, all sleeve
seams must face back of sleeve). Set in folder and sew
pairs, rights running through from shoulder to wrist, and
lefts from wrist to shoulder.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—sleeve-pieces, thread.
Tools—two-needle machine with folder, scissors.
Operations—piecing or hemming.
6O
Location——front and back of sleeve, shoulder and wrist ends.
Stock: '
Recognition—front and back parts by shape, No. 60 white
thread.
\Vorking properties—nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing additional.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—SLEEVE MAKER
The sleeve maker puts cuffs 011 the sleeves with a single needle
machine.
1. Attach cuffs to sleeve: Pair sleeves as check on piecer. Place
first sleeve outside on machine right side up. Lay cuff
underneath right side up, and edges even. Sew a “foot”
away from edges half way across. Make pleat in sleeve
part facing back of sleeve and taking up extra goods until
length of cuff and width of sleeve at wrist are equal. Con-
tinue seam to end of cuff. Pull out cuff from underneath
and fold back over to cover seam. Turn in edge and sew
across. Sew across folded edge of cuff a “foot” away.
Trim ends of cuff if needed.
2. Tack cuff: Lay sleeve outside on machine wrong side up and
cuff edge furthest away. Fold outer end of cuff over and
in until 3/8” from other end of cuff. Tack along this raw
edge about 1/2” then edge out. Fold the lower end of cuff
over to meet raw edges together and then fold over once
again making a 3/16” hem. Sew a box tack 1” along on
this hem. This holds the cuff and makes a starter for the
felling machine. This operation is identical for both right
and left sleeves.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—sleeves, cuffs, thread.
Tools—one-needle machine, scissors.
Operations—cuffing, hemming, pleating, tacking, edging out.
Location—outside and inside on machine, right and wrong side '
up, right and left sleeves, back or outer side of sleeve, shoulder
and wrist ends.
Stock:
Recognition—sleeves right and left by seam, cuffs by shape, No
60 thread.
\Vorking properties—nothing additional.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Measuring 343”, 1/3”, 3/16”, 1” by eye, a “foot”
away.
61
PAYROLL JOB—EXAMINER
The examiner receives the garment in‘two separate sub-bundles,
which are inspected possibly at different times and without‘ any
thought of their connection.
1. Examine sleeves: Inspect piecing seams, cuffs and tacking,
looking for run-offs, skips, raw edges and possible defects in
goods. Check pairs according to pleat and cut of cuff.
2-. Examine bodies: Inspect bodies for similar points, and in
addition see that all parts of the yoke fit easily or sit well,
that seams a “foot” away are not too far from the edge, and
that colors and stripes are not mixed.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—sleeves, bodies.
Tools—scissors.
Operations—inspecting.
Location—all parts of garment by name.
Special—run—offs, skips, raw edges, lie flat or sit well.
Stock:
Recognition—sleeves, bodies.
Working properties—nothing additional.
Safety and Care of Tools: None.
Drawing and Science: Nothing special.
Mathematics: Measuring a “foot” away by eye.
PAYROLL JOB—BUNDLE BOY
The duty of bundle boy is to match the sub-bundles by their lot
and bundle numbers on card.
1. Select bundle of sleeves from sleeve bin. Find bundle of bodies
with similar numbers on tag. Tie these together and place
in a third bin.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—sleeves, bodies.
Tools—none.
Operations—-—checking numbers, tying.
Location—special bins.
Stock: Bundles by numbers.
Safety and Care of Tools: None.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL J OB—SLEEVER
The sleever uses a two-needle fiat-bed machine with folder for join-
ing sleeves to body.
1. Join sleeves to body: Check length of edges of sleeve and trim
off at shoulder end if unequal. Snip edges of armhole at
intervals. Lay body inside on machine and sleeve outside,
62
both right side up (seam faces sleeve). Put parts in folder,
sewing left sleeve from front towards back, and right sleeve
from back to front. Edges must start and end even. Notch
on sleeve must meet shoulder seam.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—sleeves, bodies, thread.
Tools—two-needle flat top machine with folder, scissors.
Operations—checking length, trimming, snipping, joining.
Location—Right and left, front and back, inside and outside on
machine, right side up.
S‘EOCk:
Recognition~right and left sleeves, bodies, No. 60 thread.
Working properties—nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Mathematics: None.
Science: The turning back of edge of body part in the armhole
seam causes it to take a position on a larger circle than at
the folded edge. That is, it must be increased in length. If
snipped the edge will open up and lie flat. If not it will draw
the seam into a puckered effect.
PAYROLL JOB—FELLER
The feeling girl operates a two-needle special machine with folder.
The head stands forward from the table 8” or 10", and the bed is'
small and round so that a closed cuff or tubular sleeve may slide over
it behind the needles. The duty of this machine is to close in the
arm and side of body.
1. Fell garment: Put cuff of sleeve (already tacked) behind
folder and bring edges of the sleeve part into place in folder.
Sew from. cuff to armhole and down side to bottom of body.
Repeat with other side. No thought is taken in this oper-
ation for direction in which the seam faces.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—garment.
Tools—two-needle special machine with folder, scissors.
Operations—felling.
Location—cuff, armhole, bottom of body.
StOGk:
RecognitioIh—garment.
Working properties—nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
63
PAYROLL .IOB—I-IEMM'ER
The bottom of the garment is hemmed on a one-needle machine
without folding attachment.
1. Hem bottom: Place garment inside on machine. Fold over
1” of underneath layer at center of back and turn in edge
as stitching is done completely around to starting point.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Material—garment.
Tools—one-needle flat bed machine, scissors.
Operations—hemming, folding over, turning in.
Location—bottom edge of gown at center of back.
Stock: Nothing special. -
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Measuring 1” by eye.
PAYROLL JOB—EXAMINER
The garment is inspected a second time to check on. the sleeving,
felling and hemming work:
1. Examine garment: Inspect sleeve seams at shoulder, felled
seams and hem at bottom. Check for lying even, straight
seams, and for the usual defects, on seams.
Auxiliary Information
(See former stage of examiner ’s work.)
PAYROLL J OB—MARKER
The marker spots positions for buttons by marking through the
buttonholes. Only on such garments have long buttoned parts
is it necessary to mark positions for buttonholes. In these cases it
is done by marking at V-shaped notches on the edge of a pattern
made of heavy cardboard. This part of the job would come natural-
ly before the buttonholer gets the garment. Button positions must
always be marked after the holes are sewn.
1. Mark for buttonholes: Lay garment flat and even. Select
right size of pattern. Place pattern on right hem of front
opening and mark at notches.
2. Mark for buttons : Lay garment flat with front up. Straighten
out front hems and mark through holes with a soft black
or colored pencil.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—garment.
Tools—pencil, patterns by sizes and designs.
Operation—marking.
Stock: Nothing special.
'64
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL .IOB—BUTTONHOLER
The buttonholes are made on a special machine, described under
pajamas. On ladies’_ nightgowns there may be no buttons or front
opening so that the job preceding this job and the one following it
may also frequently be unnecessary according to the design. In this
design the yoke is close fitting about the neck, so that a buttoned
opening is needed.
1. Make buttonholes : Place garment in machine with buttonhole
hem (right) in the foot. Sew buttonholes as marked.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Matcria.ls-—garment, thread.
Tools—special machine, scissors.
Operations—sewing buttonholes.
Location—right hem of front opening.
Stock: Nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—BUTTON SEWE'R
The button sewing machine was described under pajamas. On
those night gowns which have front openings, buttons are sewn at
marked points.
1. Place button hem of garment in foot of machine. Plcae button
in upper part of foot. Sew until securely fastened.
Auxiliary Information Trade Terms:
Materials~—garment, buttons, thread.
Tools—special machine, scissors.
Operations—placing buttons, sewing.
Location-left hem of front opening.
SlJOCk:
Recognition—pearl buttons by sizes in cartons.
\Vorking properties—nothing additional.
Safety and Care of Tools: Blunt needle breaks buttons.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: 'None.
PAYROLL JOB—BUTTONER
The button girl has simply to button up the garment. It is a
monotonous job with no attractive features and requiring no partic-
ular knowledge.
1. Button front of garment: Start at neck and work to bottom
of pleat. Tie into bundles. Deliver to chute to folding de~
partment.
65
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms: Location—button sometime? off place by being sewn on a mis-
taken mark. Report to forelady.
Safety: Sharp edges on imperfect buttons may cut fingers.
Ghildren’s Sleeper Department
Ohildren’s sleepers are made largely from. flannelette, but other
lighter cotton goods are used for summer weights. Flannelette is
woven and napped so as to be the same on both sides so that there
is no right and wrong side to the cloth, but cotton goods are sized
and ironed so as to produce a glaze on one side which is generally
used as the right side. Some cotton goods are printed on one side.
“Then speaking of the right side of flannelette, we mean the side
which becomes the outside of the garment.
Sleepers are union garments, made sometimes with a hood attached
at the neck, and also as a rule, though not always, with attached
feet. They are mostly footed, and without the hood. Sizes are
indicated on the labels by years, ranging from 1 to 14. The design
of the garment provides for buttoning from neck down front to
bottom of a boxed pleat, and also across the top of a back flap reach-
ing to side openings. -
The construction of a sleeper may be summarized in the follow-
ing way:


No. I Payroll Job Work Jobs
1 I Hemmer Hem bottoms of backs.
2 First part girl Sew belt on back, hem buttonhole and button side of fronts,
I join fronts. make and sew on pocket, sew on toe-pieces.
3 Joiner Piece sleeves if needed, jo-in backs of pants, join sleeves to
I body, join shoulders.
4 Second part girl Hem side openings on pants. sew backband to pants, heel
I bottom of pants. sew cuffs on sleeves, sew on collar.
5 I Feller Fell sleeves and outside and inside seams of legs.
6 I Examiner Inspect workmanship.
'7 I Tacker Tack wrist and side ends of felled seams.
8 I Buttonholer Make buttonholes on front, backband and cuffs.
9 I Markers Mark for buttons.
10 I Button sewer Sew on buttons. ..
l] I Buttoner Button garment ready for folding department.

DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS
There is ‘sufficient instructional material connected with the
various machines and goods used throughout the processes of making
this sleeper, to warrant a detailed study of the operations in order
that new operators may be given adequate instruction on processes
and auxiliary information which goes with them.
In the study which follows it may appear as if but one garment is
being made. The reader must interpret always that twenty-four
similar garments are going through in each case. Sometimes the
operations go singly, sometimes in pairs, or maybe in threes or fours
66
the pieces go through once. This is a matter for careful study
by operators to determine just what is for them individually the most
rapid and efficient method of handling.
PAYROLL J OB—HEMMER
The hemming girl operates a one-needle machine with folder at-
tachment, running a hem across the bottom of the back piece.
1. Hem backs: Lay back outside 011 machine wrong side up. Put
left bottom edge in folder and stitch across to right corner.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Material—fiannelette, cambric or print backs, white thread.
Tools—one-needle flat-top machine with folder, scissors.
Operations—hemming.
Location—wrong side up, left and right, bottom edge, setting
folder fair.
StOCk:
Recognition—backs by shape, No. 60 white thread.
Working properties—flannel gives off a great deal of lint, mak-
ing it necessary to clean machine more frequently. Absence
of starch or sizing makes goods limp, edge of goods must be
fed in with fingers close to the folder, and an even tension
held on goods to prevent gathering or drawing.
Safety: The folder acts as a guard to the needle.
Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—FIRST PART GIRL
The first part girl operates a one~needle flat top machine without
attachments. She works on the front part of the garment with
exception of sewing the belt across the middle of back. This belt
serves no function- beyond being a button-stay.
1. Sew belt to back: Check for even length of right and left side
from arm’s eye to notch. Lay back inside on machine right
side up, bottom edge to the left. Place belt-piece right side
up with upper edge opposite notches. Turn in edge and
stitch across from left to right, returning similarly on lower
edge of belt, but leaving both ends open.
_,. Hem front opening: Lay right front (buttonhole side) inside
on machine wrong side up. Fold over hem to notch, making
uniform width to bottom of opening. Turn in edge and sew
down from neck to bottom along inner edge of hem. Lay
left front (button side) inside on machine wrong side up.
Fold over hem to notch at neck, but narrowing to lfiz” width
at bottom. Turn in edge and stitch from bottom to neck
along inner edge.
67
3. J oin fronts: Lay fronts in machine right side up. Check for
length from neck to bottom of hems. Lay right front hem
over left and stitch across at bottom of pleat. Turn in edge
of right front below pleat to crotch and stitch along edge
returning from crotch to front a “foot” away. Box bottom
of front hems. ,
4. Make and sew on pocket: Lay pocket-piece inside on machine
wrong side up. Fold over top as far as notches and stitch
across top of fold. Lay right front of garment in machine
right side up. Place pocket with top edge 1” below arm’s
eye, and “3 fingers” away from right hem. (If striped goods,
match stripes nearest way right or left.) Turn in side edge
nearest front, boxing top corner and stitching around to
armhole corner with a box tack at finish.
Sew on toe-pieces: Lay garment outside on machine right side
up. Place toe-piece over bottom of-leg wrong side up at
level of notches. Stitch around near edge from notch to
notch, nothing being turned in.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—back, back-belt or button-stay, fronts, pocket-piece,
toe-pieces, white thread.
Tools—one-needle flat top machine, scissors.
Operations—checking lengths, hemming, turning in, folding
over, boxing, joining, tacking.
Location—arm’s eye or armhole, right and wrong side up, out-
side and inside on machine, right and left sides, buttonhole
and button sides, neck, bottom of front hem, crotch, a “foot”
away, “3 fingers away,” bottom of leg.
Stock:
Recognition—all parts by name and shape, N o. 60 thread.
Working properties—nothing additional.
Safety: Needle guard on foot to protect fingers.
Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Measuring 1/2”, 1” ant “3 fingers” by eye.
C)!
PAYROLL JOB-—-JOINER
The joiner operates a two-needle flat bed machine with a folder.
Sleeves may come from the cutting room in whole pieces or in two
pieces, some bundles having some of each kind. The joiner checks
this and joins or pieces those necessary. She also joins all other
parts which are done on the flat with double seams.
1. Piece sleeves: Lay first sleeve in machine right side up. so
that back of sleeve lies at outside position (that is, all sleeve
seams must face back of sleeve). Set in folder and stitch in
68
pairs, right running through from shoulder to wrist, and
left from wrist to shoulder.
2. Join shoulders: Lay back of garment inside on machine right
side up. Lay front in outside position right side up (that is,
shoulder seam always faces front). Set right shoulder in
folder, sewing towards neck, following with left shoulder
from neck to arm hole. Trim ends of seam if needed.
3. Join sleeves to body: Lay body inside on machine right side
up, and left sleeve outside in position (that is, shoulder seam
must face the sleeve). Set front corners of sleeve and arm-
hole in folder and stitch through to back of sleeve. Place
right armhole and sleeve in position, stitching from back of
sleeve over shoulder to front corner.
4. Join backs of pants : Place right back outside and left back in-
side on machine right side up. Set in folder, sewing from
crotch to top. Trim ends of seam even if needed.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—sleeve-pieces, front and back of garment, backs of
pants, thread.
Tools—two-needle, flat bed machine with folder, scissors.
Operations—seaming.
Location—right side up, outside and inside, shoulder and wrist
ends, armhole, neck, back and front of sleeve, right and left
back of pants, crotch, seam faces backward or sleeveward.
StOGk:
Recognition—all parts by name and shape, No. 60 white thread.
Working properties~nothing additional.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—SECOND PART GIRL
The second part girl continues the single needle work, putting on
cuffs and collars, and hemming sides and top of the pants.
1. Hem side openings on pants: Lay back of pantsinside on ma-
chine wrong side up. Fold over to depth of side out on left
openiing, and to notch on top edge. Sew from bottom of
hem to top edge, turning in edge. Repeat with right side
opening, sewing from top down and edging out.
2. Sew backband to pants: Double band end to end, and notch
edge at middle fold with scissors (used as a marker to notch
rest of bundle). Put pants outside on machine wrong side
up. Lay band along top edge wrong side up with notch at
joining seam. Fold over end of band until even with hem
of right side opening. Stitch across top edge, folding over
left end of band at finish of seam. Swing garment to inside
position, right side up. Pull backband out into position and
69
fold over just to cover seam. Turn in right end of band, and
lower edge. Sew down right end and across lower edge to
left opening. Turn in left end of band and sew up, then
across top edge towards right. Near right end of band in-
sert label under needle with size tab under its lower edge.
Sew once around label and continue seam to end.
Heel bottom of pants: Put garment outside 011 machine right
side up. Fold inside bottom corner of right leg over to out
side corner. Sew across from outside to fold, about 5%,”
away, turning no edges in. Repeat with left leg, sewing
from fold to outside edge.
4. Sew cuffs to sleeves: Place sleeve of garment in machine
wrong side up. Fold over hems for wrist opening from seam
cut to end notch, sewing up sleeve on one hem and down
sleeve on the other. Swing sleeve into outside position and
lay cuff over it wrong side up with edges even. Sew across
near the edge, folding over ends of cuffband even with sleeve
at start and finish of scam. Swing sleeve to inside position
right side up and pull cuff out from beneath into position.
Fold over onto sleeve to cover seam. Turn in ends and edge
of cuff and sew all around. Repeat with other sleeve.
Sew on collarband; Fold and mark middle and quarters of
collarband by notch with scissors. Put garment outside on
machine wrong side up. Lay collarband wrong side up over
garment with edges even. Fold over ends even with front
hems and sew across near the edge. Swing garment to in-
side position right side up. Pull collarband from beneath
out into position and fold back over to cover seam. Turn
in ends and lower edge and sew all around.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—garment (fronts and back sleeved), pants, backband,
label and size tab, cuffs, collarband, thread.
Tools—one-needle machine without folder attachments.
Operations—hemming, folding, heeling, cuffing, collaring.
Location—right and wrong side up, outside and inside on ma-
chine, folding over, turning in, edging out, side openings,
bottom of legs, top of pants, wrist, neck, front hems.
Stock:
Recognition—all parts by name and shape.
Working properties—nothing additional.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—FELLER
The feller girl operates a special two-needle machine with folder
attachment. The machine head extends forward over the table so
'70
that the closed in garment may pass back over the arm-like bed. The
operation consists practically of joining a continuous felled seam
from wrist opening to wrist opening, having passed along sleeves,
outseams, inseams and feet.
1. Place end of right sleeve opening in folder. Stitch from wrist
to armhole and down right side, joining front to back as far
as bottom of right side opening. Repeat with left sleeve
and side. With garment still in machine, lay left end of
backband of pants over belt on back, checking length by
notches on front and back at bottom of left side opening.
Sew from notch down left outseam, joining front and back
of leg. Turning heel and toe parts right side in, continue
seam around under arch of the foot to and along left inseam.
Continue from crotch around right leg to notch at bottom of
right side opening, checking right ends of backband and belt
when needle has reached about knee height on the up seam.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—garment in two parts, front and pants, thread.
Tools—two-needle, special machine with folder, scissors.
Operations—felling, joining.
Location—right and left wrists and side openings, ends of back-
band and backbelt.
Stock:
Recognition—body and pants, No. 60 white thread.
Working properties nothing additional.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.

PAYROLL J O'B——EXAMIN ER
The examiner inspects all previous workmanship on the sleeper.
1. Examine collar, front pleat and pocket, looking for run-offs,
skip stitches, raw edges, tacking, and seeing that parts lie
even. rlheck length of sides of front opening. A difference
of 1A,,” must go back.
Examine felling, backband and backbelt for run-offs, skip
stitches, raw edges, and see that parts lie even. Check length
of side openings.
Examine cuffs and sleeves at shoulder for run-offs, skip titches,
raw edges, and see that cuffs lie even.
4. Check for mixed colors or stripes, thin spots or holes in goods.
Report defects to forelady, who repairs and marks such
garments as seconds.
Report defective workmanship to forelady, who returns them
to the operator responsible.
to
‘QR
71
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—child’s sleeper, all parts by name.
Tools—none.
Operations—examining, inspecting, checking lengths.
Location—all parts by name.
Special—run-offs, skip stitches, raw edges, thin spots, straight
- seams, he even, seconds.
SlJOCk :
Recognition—parts differing in color by shades and stripes, and
differing in weight or thickness.
\Vorking properties—none.
Safety and Care of Tools: None.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Measuring 14” and less by eye.
PAYROLL J OB—TACKER
The tacker operates a special machine which has an automatic
movable foot sliding over the main bed. The garment is slid into
this foot, and when machine is set in operation it slides the goods
under the needle three times sidewise, with a straight seam return-
ing the fourth time with a staggered or sawtooth seam crossing the
first three stitchings six or eight times. The‘length of this tacking
can be adjusted, but it is usually for 3/4” or 1”. The head is set
forward so that sleeves may he slid over the end of the arm bed.
Record of work done is read from a registering counter linked with
the machine so as to indicate the number of tackings made by oper-
ator.
1. Tack end of felled seams at wrist openings. Tack end of felled
seams at bottom of side openings.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—garment.
Tools—special tacking machine, scissors.
Operations—tacking.
Location—left and right wrist and side openings.
Stock: Nothing special.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—BUTTONI-IOLER
The special automatic machine used in making buttonholes, sews
around the position with a pearl stitch, then cuts through the goods
inside the stitching. Buttonholes are made in cuffs, front pleat and
backhand.
1. Place outside end of cuff in machine and sew buttonhole.
2. Place outer pleat of front opening in machine, and sew as many
72
holes as required for size of garment, working from top of
pleat to bottom and spacing by eye or chosen points on bed
of machine. .
3. Place backband in machine and sew as many holes as required
for size of garment, working end holes first, then intermedi-
ate positions by eye or, marks on machine.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Material~garment, names of parts, thread.
Tools—special machine, scissors. ‘
Operations—buttonholing.
Location—outer ends of right and left cuffs, front pleat, ends
of backband.
Stock: No. 60 white thread.
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics : Measuring position of holes by eye correct to 1 / 16”
on cuffs, 1A3” on pleat or backband.
PAYROLL JO'B——MARKER
The marker locates position of buttons by marking with soft pen-
cil through all buttonholes.
1. Lay garment flat with buttonholes and button sides in position
and mark through middle of buttonholes.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Material—garment.
Tools—soft black pencil.
Operations—laying fiat, marking.
Location—cuffs, front pleats, backband and backbelt.
Stock : Nothing additional.
Safety and Care of Tools: None.
Drawing: Marking locations through holes.
Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—BUTTON S'E‘WER
The button sewer operates a special machine which holds the
button in a foot which moves along with the cloth back and forth
sidewise far enough to bring the two holes alternately under the
needle. This oscillation keeps exact time with the movement of the
needle. For four-hole buttons, a second adjustment adds a forward
and back motion sothat the needle registers over the four holes, first
two diagonally till fully sewn, then the remaining two. The num-
ber of threads sewn through is a matter of judgment‘ of the operator-
1. Lay buttons of required sizes conveniently on table of machine
near foot. Put button in foot with holes square across.
Place garment with mark underneath foot and release foot
73
treadle. Sew according to judgment. Sew on buttons in
following order: front pleat from bottom to top, one cuff,
across backbelt or button stay, remaining cuff.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—garment, pearl buttons, thread.
Tools—special machine, scissors.
Operations—sewing on buttons, adjusting machines.
Location—machine bed, button foot, cuffs, front pleat, back belt.
Stock:
Recognition—two or four-hole buttons, firsts or seconds, No. 60
white thread.
‘Vorking properties—nothing special.
Safety: Second buttons have sharp or wane edges which fre-
quently cut fingers.
Care of Tools: Button must be set in fair or needle will strike
“off” and break. -
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—BUTTONER
The buttoner closes up all parts of the garment. There is no
given series for buttoning operations which would be better than
another. The girl adopts an order which is for herself most rapid
and saving of effort. Auxiliary konwledge is so slight as to be
almost negligible.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—garment.
Tools—none.
Operations—buttoning.
Location—front, cuffs, backband.
Stock: Nothing additional.
Safety: Handle buttons so as to avoid cuts from sharp edges on
seconds.
Care of Tools: None.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
The child’s sleeper is completed so far as the Sleeping Wear De-
partment is concerned when the buttoner has finished. The bundles
are turned in to the desk girl for recording, and are afterwards sent
down the chute to the Folding Department.
Folding Department
All garments from the Sleeping Wear and Children’s Sleeper
Department are delivered to the Folding Department in bundles of
twenty-four. It is the work of this department to fold, press, sort
and box the garments. In this particular department there is in-
cluded also the product of branch factories which have made up
74:
special lines such as men’s fancy shirts and work shirts. The range
of garments folded and boxed ‘covers men’s night shirts, pajamas,
pajunions, work shirts and fancy shirts ; ladies’ nightgowns, pajamas,
pajunions and? pajunettes; and children’s sleepers. A few children’s
rompers and ladies’bloomers are produced, but these are only spe-
cials. The standard lines are sleeping wear and shirts.
A general view of the department is shown by the following
schedule: -

No. | Payroll Job Work Jobs
1 I Folder Fold nightshirts, pajamas, pajunions, pajunettes, night-
| gowns, sleepers, work shirts, fancy shirts.
2 I Presser Press fancy shirts, Work shirts, pajamas, pajunions and
| pajunettes, white nightshirts, all summer garments.
3 l Label girl Label boxes.
4 Boxer Sort folded and pressed garments according to size and
| colors, tie in bundles and wrap, box and tie.


DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS ‘
Since the purpose to be served by this study is to provide data
which may be used by instructors particularly with girls who are
employed in departmental jobs, a detailed analysis will cover only
such employments as are suitable for girls, and will include only
among these such as are concerned with the garments which were
detailed in manufacture, namely, nightgowns, pajamas and sleepers.
All garments are folded in the same general way, slight differences
can be enlarged only on the job.
PAYROLL JOB—FOLDER
This work is done exclusively by girls. The folding table is some-
what higher than ordinary tables so that working conditions may be
comfortable. The folder thinks of the left end as the top and gar-
ments are always laid top to left. The surface of the table is marked
crosswise from a top line to indicate the sizes of boxes into which
garments are: afterwards packed. Folds are then made within these
particular lines. Small sleepers are folded extra small for packing
two side by side in boxes. Folding-boards made of heavy millboard
are used in some garments to control shape and size. The board is
withdrawn before pinning has been completely finished.
1. Fold pajamas: Straighten out pants at top and with legs
even. Lay on table with top at top line. Arrange and pin
girdle with fringed ends out at middle of top end. Fold legs
up until bottomsare past top line 8” or 10". Lift upper leg
and fold underneath itself, its fold being even with top line,
leaving end of lower leg extending out. Pin and place aside.
Lay jacket front down, even with top line. Lay pants over
jacket with tops even. Lay over the near and far sides and
pin. Fold sleeves back out with cuffs extending over edge,
and pin. Fold bottom up to required line on table and pin
75
end in place. Fold remaining pant leg back over onto body
and pin into position. Turn garment over and pin cuffs to
front of jacket. This leaves garment so that front shows
jacket and style of cuffs, and label on inside of back yoke,
while back shows ends of girdle (plain or‘ fringed) and style
of pants bottom—plain, or looped and buttoned.
2. Fold sleeper:
a. Large sized garment—-—Lay face or front up, with top at
top line. Fold sleeves across breast. Fold feet up to re-
quired folding line on table. Fold over again even with
top. Turn garment over and pin at edges.
b. Small sized garment—Lay face up. Lap over sides to
near middle and fold sleeves in. to neck edge and then over
and down with cuffs lying side by side. Fold bottom to mark.
Fold over once again to top. Turn garment over and pin
at edges. Both of these folds show label on outside near
right end of backhand.
3. Fold nightgown: Lay garment face down. Fold over sides
part way to middle. Re-fold edges back over so as to get
sleeves outside side lines. Fold bottom up until at required
mark on table. Fold over once again to top. Pin parts to-
gether. Turn garment over and pin sleeve cuffs across
front of gown. This shows label on inside of back yoke,
and style of cuffs, yoke, and front pleat.
Auxiliary Information -
Trade Terms:
Materials—pajamas, sleepers, nightgowns.
Tools—folding-boards, pins.
Operations—folding, lapping over, pinning.
Location—top line on table, various folding lines on table, front
of garment up or down on table, near side and far sides of
garment as it lies on table, fold under, fold over, fold up
(from right to left or top end).
Stock: Nothing special. ,
Safety and Care of Tools: None.
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None.
PAYROLL JOB—PRESSER
The pressing of garments varies considerably. Some are partly
pressed before folding, and finished afterwards, others are not
pressed until after folding, and some not at all. The work being
relatively heavy, it is not. given to young girls, but is given to men
and women who are physically able to work without undue fatigue.
Two types of irons are used, one being gas heated, and the other
electrically heated. The latter is the type commonly used in the
home, and is used by the women pressers. The gas heated iron also
76
has steam connection to moisten the garment as it is ironed. This
iron is considerably heavier and is used exclusively by men.
No detailed analysis is made of this job because girls are not
except in exceptional cases given this work to do.
PAYROLL JOB—LABEL GIRL
The duties in this are two-fold according as the garments are to
be enclosed in cardboard boxes or wrapped in paper bundles.
1. Prepare wrappers: Tear off paper from roll in size according
to descriptive sheet specification for particular lot number.
Stick gummed label on each sheet in such position that it
will show later on wrapped bundle just at the end of the
bundle.
2. Prepare boxes: Consult descriptive sheet for size and kind of
box for particular lot number. Count out number of boxes
required. Stick labels on boxes or covers according to kind.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—wrapping paper, boxes, labels.
Tools—paste and brush.
Operations—tearing off, labeling, counting out.
Location—position of label on sheet for various sized bundles,
label. on end of box or cover according to its style or size,
stock-piles of empty boxes by sizes, and lot numbers.
Stock :
Recognition—know empties by description on sheet, know labels
by stamped sizes.
Safety: None.
Care of Tools: Nothing special.
Drawing and Science : None.
Mathematics: Figuring number of boxes needed for particular
lot number. Counting out boxes as tied in bundles of 3’s,
4.x, 6’s, or more.
PAYROLL J OB—BOXER
The boxers have two main work jobs, one boxing and the other
bundling, that is wrapping in paper bound bundles instead of. in
boxes.
1. Sorting: Sort garments into piles according to sizes, and also
to colors in goods, or color of trimmings. Collect from piles
in dozens, or in fractions of a dozen as 3/12, 4/12 or 6/12
dozen, having same size but assorted colors.
2. Bundling: Check sizes, style and quantity on garment labels
with those on wrappers. Lay wrappers on table, labels
down. Tie bundles. Place bundle of garments in position.
l/Vrap' and tie. Stack on truck.
3. Boxing : Check sizes, style and quantity on garment label with
77
those on box. Place sorted bundles in box.‘ Put on lid and
tie box. (In higher priced garments and all summer lines
the boxes are lined with special tissue paper carrying the
firm trade mark, before bundles are placed in the boxes.
Auxiliary Information
Trade Terms:
Materials—garments, wrappers, boxes, twine, lining tissue paper.
Tools—Scissors.
Operations—checking, tying, wrapping, laying in boxes, stack-
ing on truck.
Location—wrappers with label side down.
StOGk:
Recognition folded garments by name and shape.
Safety and Care of Tools: None.
Drawing and Science: None.
Mathematics: Estimating length of twine correct to 6” for com-
pleting tied bundles, counting out garments in dozens or
fractions of a dozen. _
After bundles and boxes have been tied and stacked on the trucks
by the folding department, the manufacturing has been completed.
They are then sent to the Stock Room.
VII. USE OF INSTRUCTION SHEETS
Instruction is measured as to its success by what the learner can
do as a result of it. Good instruction is also a cost cutting factor
in the degree that it. is accomplished in the shortest possible time and
with the elimination of unnecessary effort on the part of instructor
and learner. This means the use of any effective teaching devices
which can be worked up. Good instruction sheets prepared in ad-
vance save considerable time, and make possible a better selection,
arrangement and presentation of subject matter. The sheet is not
a substitute for personal instruction. It is a supplement to it. It
is the lesson summary in permanent form with some test exercises
attached, and is intended to be handed to the learner only after a
personally conducted lesson has been put over.
The following sample instruction sheet has been prepared to illus-
trate what can be done in part-time and vestibule schools by means
of such a device. The vestibule school may not make use of all the
material which appears on these sheets because its objective is not
so inclusive as the public part-time school objective, but the objective
of the vestibule school should be inclusive of much more than it has
been in the past, if it is to accomplish results that employers expect
of it.
It will be rightly judged that the sample is somewhat long. The
fact is that such a lesson sheet would be fitted in among others ahead
of and following it, so that some questions appearing here might
appear with equal effectiveness on other sheets. Their presence
/
78
here in such numbers is rather to indicate the possibilities than to
suggest exactly what might appear on this instruction sheet when
placed among others in service. It is necessary, however, to have
“repeat” questions frequently. , -
Charting the operations will lead to some study of their efficiency,
and should produce frequent revisions by the up-to-date instructor,
showing shortened time or reduced number of motions. The result
will be standardized operation sheets. _ ,
Under the heading of related instruction the purpose is to start
the new girl thinking about her job, as her own, and also in relation
to the whole product. It is evident that many more questions could
be added.
The reference to a drawing clears up points of doubt, and also
serves as a record of things talked about which might otherwise slip
by._ Have the learner draw her own at times. ' ‘
The mathematics will bring the question of relative speed to the
girl’s attention at the start and will give her a means of computing
her attainment from day to day. It will also reveal the fact that the
company is losing money in proportion as she is paid a bonus. In
the early training period the company loses most, in the later train-
ing period she herself loses most by not being up to average speed.
In the part-time school there should be as much exercise work in
English as can be worked in about the job which is to be, or has
been done. These will suggest themselves to every interested teacher.
In the vestibule school it is not expected. that such exercises would
be carried through but it is advisable that the instruction suggested
by these exercises be given.
Instruction sheets ought-to be prepared in advance of the lesson
to be taught, and carefully checked through with someone in the
employ of the company competent to pass authentic judgment upon
them. The checking of these in preparation is a real coordinating
duty of the part-time school instructor. WVhen so passed, they should
' be stencilled and sufficient copies run off to serve the purpose of the
school for some time in advance. That is, there should be available
a copy to give to each learner, so that she has at the end some real
reference material to use when needed. Once the labor of preparing
these has been expended, the instructional job of the teacher will be
considerably lightened in the checking and follow-up part of her
duties particularly. '
Instructors will find in sections IV, V and VI. of this analysis a
large field for suggestive questions. So large in fact is it that the
problem of the teacher will be not, what can I find to put in, but
rather what shall I leave out‘? It is hoped that with such suggestive
.m-aterial at hand for use of instructors in the needle trade, and an
assurance that these instructors can use it advantageously, the labor
of compilingit will have been a service worth rendering to the cause
of vocational education.
79
Needle Trade
Part-Time Trade Preparatory School
Job Instruction Sheet
Lesson ............... -.
Job—Piece two dozen pairs of men’s pajama jacket sleeves.




fn/argea’ w'ew 07" seam .92‘ X)’
(I?)
(6)
Operations
Note : Instructor will have given instruction on and demonstrated
the use and care of machine in previous lessons, so that learner
knows the machine and can operate it in running a straight row of
stitching. ‘
1. Open bundle and check edges A and B of sleeve-pieces.
2. Lay bundle of larger pieces in convenient position on lap, and
the other at left side of machine on top of table, having the
right side of both bundles up.
Place smaller piece outside on machine right side up, and enter
shoulder end of joining edge (if right sleeve) in. lower scroll
of folder. (If left sleeve, insert cuff end in scroll.)
4. Place larger piece inside on machine right side up, and insert
corresponding end of joining edge in upper scroll of folder.
Start machine, and guide pieces through to end of seam. '
6. Repeat operations 3, 4 and 5 with next on top of bundles. (It
will be the mate of the first sleeve to form the pair, and will
be run through from opposite end.) '
Continue operations 3, 4, 5 and 6 until bundle is all through.

80
8. Pull mass from behind machine, snipping threads connecting
each sleeve, trimming shoulder end of seam when necessary,
and laying sleeves in flat bundle (by pairs) on lap as trimmed.
9. Tie bundle, and mark tag with operator’s number.
Related Instruction
Shop Knowledge—
1. The seam should be so placed as to lie on the back of the sleeve
when sewn into jacket, and lap of seam should face towards
the back. What reasons can you give for this?
2. Why should the smaller pieces be placed to the left of the
machine head and the larger pieces in the operator’s lap?
3. \Vhy check the A and B edges of the first two pieces?
\lVould it make any difference to you if you performed opera-
tion 4 before doing operation 3? If so, what and why?
5 \Vhy do you retard the lower or outside piece, and allow the
upper to feed through freely? ,
6. \Nhat is the name of the goods you are using? Is it cotton,
silk, linen or wool? Is the pattern woven into or printed
onto it?
Why is it suitable for the purpose for which it is used? \Vhy
do you think the purchasing department selected it?
8. In certain sizes of garments the sleeves may be cut with half
of the bundle in one-piece sleeves, and the other half in two
pieces. How do you account for it?
9. What length of stitch are you using? \Vhy? \Vhat size of
thread?
10. To whom will the sleeves go after this job? What will be done
to them then? Should the trimming operation belong to this
job or the next? Why?
Drawing—
1. In figure (a) of the drawing, what do dash lines “O” repre-
sent? Are there any such lines 011 the cloth?
fl
2. Indicate the position of the “O” lines in figure (0). In figure
(b). Where are these places on the scrolls of the folder?
3. Is figure (b) a sketch of a right or a left sleeve? Why?
4. \Vhat do the two vertical lines in figure (c) mean?
What difference do you find in starting the shoulder end from
that of starting the cuff end into the scrolls of the folder?
Which is the easier? Why?
Mathematics——
1. Make a record of the time you start and finish the bundle.
Subtract to find the time required. How many bundles per
day could you run at this rate?
2. If the piece-rate is 5 cents per dozen, how much would you earn
per day of factory length? Per week of factory length?
81
How many "bundles. would you have to do in a day to earn the
average daily wage of $2.00 '
What: fraction represents your daily rate. in bundles compared
with the average daily rate‘? '
Which one of the following fractions comes nearest to repre-
senting" your efficiener 1/s, Vi, 1/2', ‘in, What
would it be in. percent? '
'6. How much are you being paid for this 'w-eek’s work If your
e'arnings'are indicated by your answer to‘ question 2!, how
much is the coml'aa‘n'y' “out” because you are only learning
how to earn? How much are you yourself “out” because
you are not yet up to the average?
7. If you spoiled six pairs of sleeves irretr'ievably, and had ‘the
‘cost. of the goods deducted from your pay, ‘how much would
you lose if the goods. cost 101/2 cents per yard of 36” width,
assuming that ‘the pieces ‘were out side by side in the most
economical arrangement‘?
English—e
1. \Vrite in your notebook the ‘meaning of the foll<1>wing terms:
sleeve-pieces folder
joining edge scroll
shoulder end presser foot
seam facesv back- tension
c'ambriic retard
2. Read from some selected source about the manufacture of
cambric.
3. \Vrite from memory a half page or more telling how it is made.
82
INDEX
PAGE
Section I. Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 3
Section II. Methods of Preparatory Training . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 4
1. Public part-time preparatory school.
Factory vestibule school.
Section III. Vocational Teaching Objectives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 7
Section IV. General Instructional Content . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 8
l. The Local Company.
2. Manufacturing costs.
3 Markets and competition.
A. Business turnover.
Section V.‘ Common Factory Knowledge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 12
1. The local organization for production.
2. Materials used in factory production.
Equipment.
a. Construction, operation and care of machines.
b. Cafeteria and recreation rooms.
4:. Routing system.
5. ,Card and ticket systems.
6. Employment and training. ,
Section VI. Detailed Analysis of Certain Departments . . . . . . . . 25)
i 1. Overall.
2. Sleepingwear.
Children’s sleeper.
4. Folding.
Section VII. Use of Job Instruction‘ Sheets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 77






























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