CASTAWAY
ON THE
AUCKLAND ISLES

ARTES
18371
SCIENTIA
VERITAS
LIBRARY
OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
ELE PLURIBUS
UNUN
TUEBOR
SI-QUÆRIS PENINSULAM·AMŒNAM,
CIRCUMSPICE
GIFT OF
REGENT LLHUBBARD
Hubbard
Imag. Voy.
DU
950
A8
ма

CAPTAIN MUSGRAVE.
From a Photograph by James Brown, Invercargill.

CASTAWAY
ON THE

AUCKLAND ISLES:
A
NARRATIVE OF THE WRECK OF THE
'GRAFTON' AND
OF THE ESCAPE OF THE CREW AFTER TWENTY
MONTHS' SUFFERING.
FROM THE PRIVATE JOURNALS OF
CAPTAIN THOMAS MUSGRAVE.

A
RAID
UPON
THE
SEALS
TOGETHER WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE AUCKLANDS.
EDITED BY
JOHN J. SHILLINGLAW, F.R.G.S.
AUTHOR of ARCTIC DISCOVERY' ETC.
'How shall I admire your heroicke courage, ye marine worthies,
beyond all names of worthinesse !'
HAKLUYT.
LONDON:
LOCKWOOD AND CO., 7 STATIONERS'-HALL COURT.
1866.
[The Right of Translation is reserved.]
Res,
Regent L. L. Hubbard
10-16-1924
THIS RECORD
OF A TIME OF GREAT TRIAL AND SUFFERING
Is Dedicated
ΤΟ
JOHN MACPHERSON, ESQ.,
MERCHANT, OF INVERCARGILL,
AND TO
THE HON. JAMES
G. FRANCIS,
MINISTER OF TRADE, MELBOURNE,
AS
A TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE.
α
From THE TIMES, Dcc. 19, 1865.
In these smooth days of steam and rail to the uttermost corners of the
earth, Robinson-Crusoe-like adventure does not seem to be very easy of
attainment even to a man who may have a fancy for such experience.
Nevertheless, some few desert islands still remain to us; and the Auckland
Islands, about 400 miles to the south of New Zealand, are among the
number. We had recently a visit from a mariner named Musgrave,
whose diary of his nearly 20 months' stay on one of these islands is
almost as interesting as Daniel Defoe, besides being, as the children say,
'all true.'"-Times' Correspondent.
INTRODUCTION.
FEW more interesting narratives of disasters at sea have
ever been given to the world than the journals in which
Captain MUSGRAVE records the wreck of the Grafton.' A
great trial, bravely met, and gallantly surmounted, is
therein told with a care and exactness which is at the same
time singularly modest. Remembering the difficulties with
which the devoted little party were surrounded, what reader
can fail to exclaim, in the words which I have quoted on the
title-page, How shall I admire your heroicke courage, ye
Marine Worthios beyond all names of worthinesse!' Indeed,
the story of the wreck of the 'Grafton,' and of the suffer-
ings of her crew, would have found a very appropriate
resting place in the pages of that famous history of
Voyages, Traffiques, and Discoueries,' side by side with.
many another pitiful tale of shipwreck, collected by the
worthy RICHARD HAKLUYT, Preacher,' to be the delight
in all ages of the school-boy as well as the scholar. The
same feeling we experience in reading of poor WILLS, the
hero of the expedition across Australia, waiting, like Mr.
MICAWBER, for something to turn up,' animates us as we
read how the Castaways on the Aucklands used to strain
their eyes looking for that relief which never came. We
hear the clink of RAYNAL'S anvil far into the night whilst
he is engaged forming out of old iron the bolts and nails
necessary to repair the crazy 'dingy' for a perilous voyage
6
vi
Introduction.
of 210 miles across a stormy ocean. * Our admiration is
compelled no less by the tinkering, tailoring, and cobbling
ingenuity of the gallant French mate, than by the 'moral
suasion' of the master, who employs himself in the
evening in teaching his men how to read and write, and
in compiling sailing directions' for a little-known part of
the globe, to be 'sealed up in a bottle' for the benefit of
future navigators of these seas. In his direst strait this
modern 'Complete Seaman' finds comfort in some lines
of THOMAS MOORE, and finally makes his last cast for
Death or Freedom' with a truly Nelsonic touch.
Regarded as simply a marvellous tale of the sea—as a
practical lesson of self-reliance-the story is sufficiently
interesting; but it is no less an important contribution to
Hydrographical Science. The limits of this small volume
will not allow of the publication of a mass of barometrical
and other observations collected by Captain MUSGRAVE.
These will be forwarded to the proper quarter, and will
doubtless receive the credit which they deserve.
It only remains to add a brief résumé of the steps which
have been taken by the Government of Victoria, in con-
junction with New South Wales and Queensland, to
examine and set at rest the question whether there are at
present any other unfortunates dragging out a miserable
existence on the Auckland Islands. It will be seen from
the journal of Captain MUSGRAVE that when he returned
to the islands to rescue the two seamen he had left behind,
he and others on board the 'Flying Scud,' on the 23rd
* The following extracts from Lloyd's List, which have come under
the publishers' notice, will not perhaps be thought out of place here :-
"The 'Grafton,' Musgrave, sailed from Sydney for South Sea Islands
Nov. 12, 1863.”—Lloyd's List, Jan. 9, 1864.
((
Wellington, New Zealand, Aug. 12, 1865.
"The Grafton,' Musgrave, from Sydney to the South Sea Islands, was
wrecked Jan. 3, 1864, in one of the inlets of the Auckland Islands; the
master and two of the crew arrived at Port Adventure last month in a
small boat of their own building."—Lloyd's List, Oct. 17, 1865.
Introduction.
vii
August, 1865, thought they saw smoke on the eastern coast
at a point shown on the map, which, however, they were
not able to explore.
Subsequently they found the body of a seaman at Port
Ross, who had evidently died from starvation. A slate
which was found near him, seemed to have been written
on, but the utmost ingenuity had failed to decipher the
characters with any accuracy. On arriving in Melbourne,
Captain MUSGRAVE waited on the Hon. J. G. FRANCIS, Com-
missioner of Trade and Customs, and explained his reasons
for thinking that there might be still other persons on the
island. As several vessels which had sailed from Melbourne
were known to be missing,' Mr. FRANCIS, with a promp-
titude which does him great honour, immediately called
for tenders for a vessel to proceed to the Aucklands, and
finding that delay might ensue in sending a sailing vessel,
at once ordered the equipment of H.M.C.S.S. 'Victoria,'
Captain NORMAN. The 'Victoria' sailed on the 4th October,
having Captain MUSGRAVE on board as a passenger, who
thus, for the second time, put aside all personal considera-
tions to carry out what he deemed to be his duty,—a self-
denial which, considering he has not seen his family since
November, 1863, is worthy of our heartiest sympathy.
The English Mail arrived after the 'Victoria' had left
for Melbourne, and by it we received the intelligence that
the ship 'Invercauld' had been lost on the Aucklands, on
the 10th May, 1864, and that three of the survivors had
been taken off by a Peruvian vessel on the 22nd May, 1865.
In the Appendix will be found all that has yet reached us
of the particulars of the wreck of the 'Invercauld.'
MELBOURNE, 25th October, 1865.
J. J. S.
NOTE BY THE PUBLISHERS.
Some additional particulars respecting the despatch of the 'Victoria,'
taken from the Melbourne Argus, will probably interest the reader :-
"The Victorian Government determined to despatch the colonial steam-
sloop 'Victoria' to the islands, to discover and rescue the survivors, if
viii
Introduction.
there be any. The Governments of New South Wales and Queensland
have undertaken to defray a portion of the cost of the expedition. The
'Victoria,' under the command of Captain Norman, left Hobson's Bay
on her mission of mercy on the 4th inst. The instructions of the
Government to Captain Norman were to proceed with all possible despatch
to the isles, and search for and relieve any person or persons who may be
there in distress; and, on the completion of his mission, to return direct
to Melbourne, or, in the event of fuel running short, or the weather
being adverse, to make for the most convenient port in New Zealand for a
supply of coal, which, it is to be presumed, will be afforded free of
charge. Captain Musgrave, of the 'Grafton,' whose local knowledge
will be of great value, accompanied the expedition. Should circumstances
allow, Captain Norman will call at Campbell's Island, and also at Bounty
Island, which are situate-the one to the south and the other to the
north-east of the Auckland group. The crew of the 'Victoria' numbers
fifty, and the ship is provisioned for three months.
supply of stores, bedding, clothing, &c., for any unfortunates who may
be picked up. In order that people who may be shipwrecked on the
Auckland Isles in the future may have within reach a supply of animal
food, a number of pigs, rabbits, and goats have been placed on board by
the Acclimatisation Society, to be turned loose on the islands.”
Additional Note.
She also carries a
The Times' New Zealand correspondent, in a letter dated Nov. 15, 1865,
writes as follows:-
"The Victorian war steamer 'Victoria' put into Otago on the 8th
inst. for coals and provisions, having been searching the Auckland Islands
for shipwrecked mariners.
The whole group has, however,
been thoroughly searched without success, no trace of human beings, dead
or alive, being found. Provisions have been left in various parts of the
islands for the use of future castaways."-Times, Jan. 13, 1866.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
ARRIVAL AT AUCKLAND ISLAND. THE SHIPWRECK. RESOURCES OF
THE ISLAND
•
CHAPTER II.
REFLECTIONS SUGGESTED BY OUR SITUATION.—BREAKING UP OF THE
WRECK.-A BATTLE WITH THE SEALS.-UNSUCCESSFUL FISHING
PAGE
1
14
CHAPTER III.
VISIT ΤΟ
FIGURE-OF-EIGHT ISLAND. DOGS DISCOVERED. · ROYAL
TOM.-BIBLE READINGS
24
CHAPTER IV.
WINTER IN AUCKLAND ISLAND.
AUCKLAND ISLAND. THE MOUNTAINS.-AN EQUINOCTIAL
GALE. A WEARY JOURNEY
33
CHAPTER V.
THE AURORA AUSTRALIS.-OUR DAILY FARE.-HEAVY SNOWFALL.-
FAILURE TO REPAIR THE SCHOONER
49
CHAPTER VI.
SCARCITY OF FOOD.—TENACITY OF LIFE IN SEALS.
-FURTHER EX-
57
PLORATIONS IN THE ISLAND.-RESOLVE TO BUILD A VESSEL
CHAPTER VII.
SHIP-BUILDING
COMMENCED.-FAILURE
OF THE SAME.—THE BOAT
PLACED UNDER REPAIR. SAND-FLIES. DISCOVERY OF A CAVERN.
-WINTER AGAIN
•
77
CHAPTER VIII.
LAUNCH OF THE BOAT
90
X
Contents.
CHAPTER IX.
WE LEAVE THE ISLAND AND LAND AT PORT ADVENTURE.-ARRIVAL AT
INVERCARGILL.-DESPATCH OF THE FLYING SOUD' TO AUCK-
LAND ISLAND
96
CHAPTER X.
THE VOYAGE TO AUCKLAND ISLAND IN THE FLYING SCUD'
: 100
CHAPTER XI.
ARRIVAL AT AUCKLAND ISLAND.-JOYOUS MEETING WITH OUR FELLOW-
CASTAWAYS.-DOG versus SEAL
CHAPTER XII.
DEPARTURE HOMEWARD. —EXPLORATIONS AT THE NORTH OF THE ISLAND.
-PORT ROSS.-LAURIE COVE.-A BARREN SETTLEMENT.—DIS-
COVERY OF A DEAD BODY
116
122
133
•
CHAPTER XIII.
LAST VIEW OF THE ISLAND.-AN UNCOMFORTABLE VOYAGE. ARRIVAL
AT STEWART ISLAND.-CONCLUSION OF JOURNAL
APPENDICES.
I. AN ACCOUNT OF THE SEA-LION AND ITS HABITS
•
II. A SHORT ACCOUNT OF THE AUCKLAND ISLANDS
III. THE LOSS OF THE 'INVERCAULD'
•
141
•
151
171

ng
Ocean
SKETCH MAP OF THE
марок
AUCKLAND
ISLES.
Soundings in fathoms.
H.W. f&c 12h. 45m. Rise VIII ft.
LAT. E. ENTRANCE
50. 56'.
LONG.
D°
166 20'F.
1865.
Cliffs
400A
Cliffs
Monumental
120 ft
19
SOUTH
CAPE
ENDERBY 10
Green 1ª
Rose la
Χ
SMOKE SEEN
x x
Bank
BREAKERS
Magnelic
True
M
14
8
10
11
Figure of Light 1ª
CIRCULAR H°
15
35
Epigwaitt House
15 70
35 Baynat
NORTH
ARM
MIDDLE HARBOR
Musgrave
Peninsula
Point. No3
Point N°2
Point No1.
CAMP
COVE
WESTERN ARM
Flagstaff It
MASKED
20
1
ADAMS OR SOUTH
ISLAND
The "Sarah's Bosom" of Musgrave.
CARNLEY HARBOR
Standidge & Lithe London, EC.
London Lookwood & Co, 7. Stationers Hall Court. 1866.
NARRATIVE OF THE WRECK
OF
THE SCHOONER 'GRAFTON.'
From the Private Journal of Capt. Thomas Musgrave.
CHAPTER I.
ARRIVAL AT AUCKLAND ISLAND. THE SHIPWRECK.-RESOURCES
OF THE ISLAND.
Wednesday, December 30, 1863.-Commences with fresh
breeze and dark cloudy weather. At 6 P.M. made the
Auckland Group, bearing N.W. about 25 miles distant.
Midnight, same weather; all sails set; water smooth under
the lee of the island. Barom. 29.80, 2 A.M.: Tacked to
S.W. From this time till 6 A.M. weather moderately
clear, but wind very puffy and treacherous. Took in fore-
top-gallant sail; all the latter part, breeze unsteady;
weather unsettled and threatening, and a very ugly sea
getting up.
Noon: Barom. 29.55, falling rapidly. Every
appearance of N. gale and a very heavy confused sea
running. South Cape, Auckland Islands, bearing W.N.W.,
distant about 20 miles. Lat. by observation, 51° 17' S.;
long. by bearing, 166° 35′ E., therm. 60°. I think that
Mr. Raynal* is a little better since we left Campbell's
Island. Winds: 2 P.M., W.S.W.; 4 P.M., W.; 8 P.M. W.
by N.; 10 P.M., N.W. by W.; 4 A.M., W.N.W.; 8 a.m., W.
* Mr. Raynal was mate of the Grafton,' and had been seriously ill
whilst the schooner lay at Campbell's Island.-Ed.
B
2
The Approach to Auckland Island.
Thursday, December 31, 1863.-Directly after the sun
crossed the meridian it came on to blow a gale. Imme-
diately reduced sail to close-reefed topsail, foresail, and
foretop mainstaysail. A dangerous, confused sea running,
and breaking on board in all directions, and a thick fog
set in, with drizzling rain, which continued up till 6 P.M.,
when the sea began to run more regular, but still much
confused, causing the vessel to labour and strain heavily,
and make a little water. From this time till midnight
experienced a hard gale, high sea, heavy rain, and thick
fog. At 2 A.M. bore to westward, and at 4 A.M. the gale
moderated. Made sail accordingly. At 8 A.M. all sail set,
and at 9 A.M. made Auckland Island again, South Cape
bearing N.N.E., distant about 25 miles. As the wind will
not permit me to weather the island, I have determined to
go under its lee, and if possible cast anchor in Sarah's
Bosom.' Mr. Raynal is much better to-day. Noon:
Moderate breeze and cloudy. Took sights at 9 A.M., South
Cape bearing N.N.E. by compass, variation 2 points E.
Lat. 51° 8' S.; long. 166° 17', and would put the South
Cape in long. 166° 45'. This longitude does not exactly
correspond with Bowditch, who gives two, which differ 20
miles, one being 166° 7′ and the other 166° 27'. Winds:
2 P.M., W.N.W. ; 10 P.M., W.S.W.; 2 A.M., S.W.; 8 A.M., W.
Friday (New Year's Day), 1864.-At noon one point
of the island bore N. by W. W., and South Cape bore
N.E. by N., distant about 8 miles. As we approach the
island I find that it bears precisely the same appearance as
Campbell's Island, and the mountains are about the same
height. At 3 P.M. entered a harbour which I suppose
is Sarah's Bosom.'*
6
First and middle parts of the 24
hours, moderate breeze and moderately clear weather.
The entrance of the harbour runs east and west. We beat
in, but found no bottom at 20 fathoms, even close in to the
rocks; kept under way all night.
1.
2
* This is an error, it should be 'Carnley's Harbour.'-ED.
Dangerous Condition of the Ship.
3
We saw great numbers of seals as we went up; at every
tack we made they came off from the shore to look at us,
and played round the ship like porpoises. 6 A.M.: Put the
boat out, and sent her away to look for an anchorage, but
found none.
8 A.M. It came on to blow a strong breeze
from N.W., which increased to a gale. Kept on heading
up the harbour, to which we saw no end. At noon strong
gale from N.W., with heavy rain; brought up on the N.E.
side of the harbour, in 6 fathoms of water, close in shore,
about 10 or 12 miles from the sea. We have had a very
difficult job in heading up here, and are not yet in a good
anchorage, but intend looking for one as soon as the
weather moderates. We have got both anchors down, with
30 fathoms chain on each: this is all the good chain we
have got. I consider her in a rather dangerous position,
as there is hardly room for her to swing clear of the rocks
should the wind come from the S.W. There is a swell on,
and she strains very much at her anchors. The rain and
gale continued till midnight, at which time this day ends,
containing 36 hours. Wind, N.W. Barom., noon, 29.25;
midnight, 29.3.
Saturday, January 2, 1864.-Very heavy gale through-
out this day; first and middle parts almost constant rain,
and during the latter heavy squalls. There is a consi-
derable swell running, and the ship has been jerking and
straining at her chains all day, and I expected them to
part every moment. At 7 P.M., in a heavy squall, the star-
board chain did part, about two fathoms outside the pipe,
leaving about 38 fathoms on the anchor; and the other, or
best bower, dragged a considerable distance, and then
brought her up again, her stern in a quarter less two
fathoms, about half a cable's length from the shore. She
is lying almost parallel with the shore, and should the
wind come from the S.W. she must most inevitably go
into the rocks, and I have now made up my mind for the
worst. I see no hope of her keeping clear. Barom.,
28.90, and falling at 10 P.M. The wind is so that, should
B 2
4
The Wreck Abandoned.
I slip the cable with a spring, she would not clear the point,
or I would slip and run out to sea. At every heave of the
swell she is dragging the anchor home, and getting nearer
the shore. From 10 P.M. till midnight the gale blew with
the most terrific violence, and precisely at midnight the
ship struck, but we hung on to the cable, in hopes that
the wind would moderate as the tide rose, as it was then
low water. Wind, from N.W. to W.N.W., and some-
times W.
Sunday, January 3, 1864.—After midnight the gale in-
creased and blew with the most unimaginable violence,
and we found that she was an unavoidable wreck; she lay
broadside on to the beach, and the sea made a clean breach
over her.
At every surge we expected the masts to go
over the side. We had veered out all the cable. We saw
pieces of her keel coming up under her lee, and she made
much water, but we kept at the pumps till we found she
was filling fast, and the water was rushing into her like a
boiling spring; this was at a quarter past 2 o'clock in the
morning. We abandoned the pumps, and commenced
getting the provisions on deck, which did not occupy much
time, as our stock was very small. In a quarter of an
hour she was full up to the top of the cabin table, and
the sea was breaking heavily over her. The sea was so
heavy on the beach that I considered it dangerous to
attempt landing till daylight. We remained on deck, and
at daylight commenced landing our provisions and clothes;
we had much difficulty in landing; as it is a stone beach,
the boat was in danger of breaking up. However, by
10 A.M. we had succeeded in landing the things most
important without doing much damage to the boat. We
brought the mainsail and gaff on shore and made a tent
of it. We are obliged to lie on the ground, which is very
wet. Raynal has walked about 100 yards to-day, from
the beach to the tent. Wind, N.W. to W.N.W.
Sunday, January 10, 1864.-It is now a week since we
Janded here, and my time has been so much occupied in
Life on the Island.
10
5
hard work as to leave me no time to make even daily
notes; but Mr. Raynal, who is improving fast, keeps the
diary. Indeed, he is so much better that he talks of
going to work to-morrow. We have had a very stormy
week; it has been blowing a perfect hurricane from N. to
S. all the time, until yesterday, which was a mild, cloudy
day, without rain (the first since we came here); the
breeze light, from south.
To-day is also a very fine day, with a moderate N.W.
breeze. Last Monday we went on board the wreck, and
got all the boards we could muster to make a floor in the
tent, as we had all got severe colds from lying on the
wet ground. We also unbent the sails, and sent down
all the yards and topmasts, and are using them for build-
ing a house, as in all probability we shall have to remain
here all next winter; and if we want to preserve life, we
must have shelter. We have all worked very hard, and
although it has been so wet we have succeeded in getting
up the frame of the house. There is plenty of timber
where we are camped, and also a beautiful creek of clear
water; but the timber is not long or big enough to
make a proper log-house, so we shall put them (the pieces
of timber) up and down. The seals are very numerous
here; they go roaring about the woods like wild cattle.
Indeed, we expect they will come and storm the tent
some night. We live chiefly on seal meat, as we have
to be very frugal with our own little stock; we kill them
at the door of the tent as we require them. If we had
been fortunate enough to have kept the vessel afloat, I
have no doubt but in two months or less we should have
loaded her. Mine appears a hard fate; after getting to
where I might have made up for what has been lost, I
lose the means of doing so. The vessel leaves her bones
here, and God only knows whether we are all to leave
our bones here also. And what is to become of my poor
unprovided-for family? It drives me mad to think of it.
I can write no more.
6
Seal's Meat-A Substitute for Lamb.
Sunday, January 17, 1864.-Another week of exile has
passed, during which we have had tolerably fine weather ;
the first part was very fine indeed; on Thursday it rained
all day. In the evening I went across the bay in the
boat, and shot a dozen widgeons, of which we ate two,
and the remainder, with four others which I shot this
morning, we are reserving, as we have abundance of seal
meat, which we find very good, particularly the females
and young ones, but we cannot use the old bulls. We
got one young one which had never been in the water ;
this was delicious—it was exactly like lamb; we have
also got two carcases in salt; we have no occasion to go
far after them, as they come close to the tent; indeed we
were very much annoyed with them in the night, till one
night we thought they would come into the tent, and to
frighten them away I put a bullet into one of their tails,
which had the desired effect. We have not been troubled
with them since. The other day, when we were out with
the boat, we saw great numbers of them, and one monster,
the largest seal I have seen yet, much larger than the
one we took the 35 gallons of oil from at Campbell's
Island, made an attack on the boat. I slipped a ball into
the gun on top of the shot, and as he put his head over
the stern of the boat I put the whole charge into his
mouth, which was wide open, and sent his head flying in
all directions. But when you kill them in the water they
sink like a stone; but I think they might be taken in the
water with a harpoon.
We are progressing slowly with the house; it will be
some time before it is ready for living in. I have been on
board the wreck several times during the week, and I see
that there are fish and crabs in the hold; but at the end of
the incoming week I intend to lay her on her other bilge
if possible (it will be spring tides), and ascertain what
damage is done to her bottom; it is possible we may be
able to make her carry us to New Zealand yet. Mr. Raynal
is almost quite well; he has been working a little all this
Great Number of Seals.
7
We
week; he is our blacksmith, and makes nails for us.
are very badly off for tools; all we have got is a hammer,
an axe, an adze, and a gimblet.
Tuesday, January 19, 1864.-Light easterly airs and
cloudy weather during the last two days. This morning
we went down the harbour in the boat and planted a flag-
staff, with a large canvas flag on it, where it may be seen
from the sea, and we tied a bottle to it, with a note inside
it, directing anyone who may see it where to find us.
We
then went up to the western arm of the harbour to its
head, which is about ten or eleven miles from the eastern
entrance. Here we found a narrow passage out to sea, on
the western side of the island. The passage out on the
western side is about three quarters of a mile long, and a
quarter cable's length wide. We did not think it prudent
to enter this passage with the boat, as the tide was rushing
rapidly through it, and there was a heavy swell running,
and breaking on both sides. It runs nearly north and
south, the south end opening to the sea-I should suppose
not far from the South Cape.
At this place we saw hundreds of seals; both the shores
and the water were literally swarming with them, both
the tiger and black seal; but in general the tiger seals
keep one side of the harbour, and the black seals, which
are much the largest, the other side. But in one instance
we saw a black and a tiger seal fighting. They were at it
when we first saw them. We watched them about half an
hour, and left them still hard at it; they fight as fero-
ciously as dogs, and do not make the least noise, and with
their large tusks they tear each other almost to pieces.
We also saw a sea-lion; he was very large, and he had
been fighting, and his neck and back were lacerated in a
most fearful manner; large pieces of hide and flesh were
torn off, perhaps a foot long, and four or five inches wide.
We were close to him; he sat and looked at us in the boat
with all possible coolness and unconcern, and we did not
molest him, as we have got two carcases salted down, and
8
Several Kinds of Birds on the Island.
one hanging up, and it is no use for us to kill them for
their skins, as whoever takes us away would not feel in-
clined to humbug with our seal skins unless we gave them
to them, which, of course, they would deserve.
But we have other work on our hands at present. We
must get a place to live in, for the tent we are now living
in is a beastly place. I expect we shall all get our death
of cold before we get out of it yet; and the blow-flies blow
our blankets and clothes, and make everything in the most
disgusting state imaginable. A kind of mosquito is very
troublesome in the day-time also, but fortunately they do
not bite at night.
We have several kinds of birds here also, two kinds of
which are songsters, and send forth beautiful notes; and
there is the green parrot and robin-redbreast. They are
all very tame. We could put out our hands and take hold
of them, but we do not disturb them. The robins are very
familiar with us; they come into the tent and chirp round
us when we are at our meals, and are quite tame. While
we were up the western arm of the harbour I shot a dozen
of widgeon and young ducks; and we picked up a piece of
a studding-sail boom on the beach, which had evidently
not been lying there very long. We also found a seal dead
on the beach, which I shot about a week ago close to where
we were camped. The ball entered just before the shoulder,
but he was quite close to the water, and got in and away
before I could get at him to kill him. Where we found
him is about eight or nine miles from here. I have taken
a sketch of the western arm. The water is very deep, with
bold, rocky shores, 10 fathoms deep, 50 yards from the
shore, and we nowhere found bottom with a 20-fathom
line at a hundred yards from the shore.
Sunday, January 24, 1864.—The weather has been toler-
ably fine since I last wrote, although it has been blowing a
westerly gale ever since, and on Friday it rained heavily
all day, with thunder and lightning in the evening. We
have all been busy about the house, and I think we shall be
Scenery and Timber of the Island.
9
able to get into it towards the end of the incoming week.
This morning I started to go on to the mountain which
rises to the N.E. of us, to have a look round. I went
alone, as my Norwegian friend, whom I had for a travelling
companion on the other island, is sick; he was unable to
work yesterday, and Mr. Raynal's legs are not strong
enough for travelling yet. In going up I found seal tracks
nearly to the top of the mountain, which I reckon is about
four miles from the water; and about three miles up I saw
a seal. I went about seven or eight miles and got a good
view of the eastern part of the island, and I see that there
is a sort of small harbour farther to the northward, but I
don't suppose that there is any anchorage in it, as the
mountains rise perpendicularly from it on both sides to
the height of five hundred feet, and a considerable stream
empties itself into it at the head; and it would not be fit
for a vessel to go into if there was anchorage, as it is
straight N.E. and S.W., and very much resembles the
N.E. harbour at Campbell's Island, only that it is not so
large. It is about three quarters of a mile long, and
not more than a cable's length wide. All the mountains
to the northward and eastward appear very precipitous, and
there are only a few places where it would be possible
to get either up or down them. They are covered
with long, coarse grass, with here and there a patch of
furze or stunted scrub, and there are numerous streams of
water running out of them. In fact, the whole top of the
mountain on which I stood was one mass of bog, and
quite destitute of grass or herbage of any kind, but there
is any quantity of granite rock. As I went up I found
the travelling tolerably good, as I took the spur of the
range, which is always the best; but, on coming back, I
came down the face of the mountain, and encountered a
number of swamps, through which I had considerable
difficulty to get, until I arrived at the seal tracks, which
do not go so far up here. They are not more than about a
mile from the water, which is about the extent back of the
10
Fortunate Escape from an Accident.
big bush. This 'big bush,' as we call it, is where the
largest timber grows; it extends about a mile from the
water all round the shores of this harbour, which, taking
all the bays, is not less than sixty or seventy miles. This
timber is all iron-bark and she-oak, but the bark of the
timber is not like that of the Australian. This is as thin
as brown paper, but the wood is precisely the same. It
does not grow straight; you can scarcely get a straight
piece out of it six feet long; it would make excellent
timber for the frame of a ship, and there are any quantity
of splendid knees. This is the iron-bark I am speaking of
now. The oak is not much good for anything but burning.
On Tuesday last I had a very narrow escape from being
shot. We were up the bush after a seal, which gave us a
very exciting chase. I suppose we followed him two miles.
They can run very fast in the bush. My gun had been
loaded for two days, and the powder had got damp. After
snapping three or four caps I got one barrel off, and the
ball went into his neck, and out again between his shoul-
ders. However, as a proof of how hard they are to kill,
this did not stop him long enough for us to get up to him.
I did not stop to load again (and it is impossible to load
running in this bush), but pricked the powder up in the
other barrel, and tried it again. The cap snapped, but the
gun did not go off. I brought the barrel to my shoulder,
with the butt to the ground, in order to load the other
barrel again, when off she went, and the ball passed
through the rim of my hat. They killed the seal before I
got up to them again; but not. however, till he got on to
the beach. I thank God, who has protected me thus far,
although in His wisdom He has chastised me severely
lately, that He has again spared my life. The thermometer
is about 48° or 49° at midday now.
Sunday, February 7, 1864.-It is now a fortnight since
I last wrote, during which time we have had very bad
weather; there has not been one entire fine day, excepting
last Friday and to-day. To-day it is exceedingly fine; it
!
Prospect for the Future.
11
is blowing a light westerly breeze, with clear weather.
Barometer at 29.30. On Monday last we had a most fear-
ful S.S.W. gale. We had the boat afloat in the morning,
and the gale came on so suddenly at noon that we could
not attempt to haul her on to the beach, there was so
much surf; so we left her moored to the wreck, but she
got stove in there; for the sea struck her, and started all
the ends of the planks on the port bow. We have not yet
undertaken to repair her, as we have been too busy with
the house. We kept at work at it, in spite of the bad
weather, and we even worked at it on last Sunday. On
Tuesday we came into it, and I am glad to say that we
shall be much more comfortable. The house is 24 feet by
16 feet; the chimney is 8 feet by 5 feet, built of stone.
We shall be able to have a roaring fire in it in the winter,
if we are so unfortunate as to have to remain here till that
time; and God help those at home, whom it almost drives
me mad to think of. We have, as yet, had plenty to eat,
but whether they have or not, God only knows.
For the last three weeks we have killed a cow an a
calf seal each week. We only eat the cow and calf tiger
seals; the black seal is not good, and the bulls are all very
rank. We killed a cow and her calf this morning; we
got milk from the cow after she was killed, which is very
rich and good, much better even than goat's milk.
We
have not had time to go fishing in the boat yet, but I have
no doubt but there is plenty of fine fish in the harbour,
for we have had several dishes of small cod, which we
catch amongst the kelp at low water. We also get plenty
of mussels at low water springs.
Up to the present time the men have worked well, and
conducted themselves in a very obedient and respectful
manner towards me; but I find there is somewhat of a
spirit of obstinacy and independence creeping in amongst
them. It is true I no longer hold any command over
them, but I share everything that has been saved from the
wreck in common with them, and I have worked as hard
12
Discontent amongst the Men.
as any of them in trying to make them comfortable, and I
think gratitude ought to prompt them to still continue
willing and obedient. But you might as well look for the
grace of God in a Highlandman's log-book as gratitude in
a sailor; this is a well-known fact. They have not as yet
objected to do anything that I have told them to do, but
they did it in that manner which says plainly, Why don't
you do it yourself? On Monday last the barometer was
down to 28 inches, which is the lowest I have ever seen
it. Thermometer stands at about 48° to 50°.
Sunday, February 14, 1864.-During the first part of
the past week we had very heavy and almost constant
rain; wind moderate, and generally from between W.
and N.W. On Thursday morning we had a light air from
the eastward, which is the first easterly wind we have had
since we came here. Since Wednesday the weather has
been very fine, with moderate westerly winds, but still not
a day has passed without showers, more or less. This is a
dreadful place for rain; but still we appear to have got to
a place where it falls least. There is one place where it
scarcely ever ceases raining; this is caused by the form of
the land in that particular place (which we have named
Rainy Corner), which is backed by a very high mountain,
which bursts the low clouds as they pass over it. I have
been working at the boat, and have got her in first-rate
order-much better than when we got her. The men have
been jobbing about the house, and cutting long grass to
thatch the walls with outside.
Since we came into the house we have arranged that
one man shall cook for a week, and that they will take it
in turns; and as Mr. Raynal wished to take his turn with
the rest, I did not object to his doing so, He was cook
last week (they change on Saturday nights), and an excel-
lent cook he is; he has set the others a good example for
cleanliness and good cooking, and I hope they will follow
it. He very frequently gave us four courses at a meal.
(Anyone might wonder where we got anything to make
Household Arrangements.
13
four courses off, but we are like the shell-fish, we get the
most at spring tides). One would be stewed or roasted
seal, fried liver, fish and mussels. We got a young seal
on Friday, but we have not had a large one since last
Sunday, which we cut up and salted like bacon. It is now
hanging up, and I think this will be the best way of keep-
ing the meat. We have tried several ways to preserve
the skins without salting, so as to make clothes of them,
but we have not succeeded yet. We cannot get them
dried without something on them, as the flies destroy
them, and there is no bark that will tan. We have not
had any seals about the tent or house since I shot the
fellow in the stern. Since noon it has come on to blow
stiff, with squalls from W.N.W. Barometer 29.30; ther-
mometer ranging from 48° to 52°. Went out with the
gun this morning, and got a few widgeons.
1
14
Reflections.
CHAPTER II.
REFLECTIONS SUGGESTED BY OUR SITUATION.-BREAKING UP OF
THE WRECK.—A BATTLE WITH THE SEALS. UNSUCCESSFUL
FISHING.
Sunday, February 21, 1864.-I am in exceedingly low
spirits to-day, and I know that one loved one in Sydney
is so also; for I have no doubt but by this time they have
given me up for lost, and what is to become of my own
dear wife and children? May God, to whom only they
can now look for comfort, watch over and protect them, is
my constant and fervent prayer. I shall never forgive
myself for coming on this enterprise, although strong
inducements prompted me to the undertaking; and
although the chief object of my coming was a failure,
the sealing would have done very well, and I should have
made a good thing of it, had the old chains only held the
ship to her anchors, I could have loaded her with skins
in a month, and should have been in Sydney before this
time. However, this was an accident over which I had no
control, and God in His wisdom knows best why I am left
here, and how long we may remain here; but surely our
friends will send some one to look after us by some means
or other, for I told them before leaving, that if any acci-
dent did happen to the vessel, it was much more likely to
happen in harbour than at sea; so it is to be hoped they
will exert themselves in finding some means of getting a
vessel sent to look for us. But if they do send one, it is
not likely to be before next October or November, as I
suppose people would not come down into these stormy
and unexplored regions in the winter, which is now ap-
proaching. And this is certainly a very stormy place, and
House-building under Difficulties.
15
the wind is almost constantly blowing out of the harbour,
and blowing a gale; on an average there is not more than
one day out of three that a vessel could beat up against it.
During the last week we have had the finest weather that
we have had since we came here. We have had no rain
until yesterday, when it rained heavily from noon till
8 P.M. To-day it is blowing a heavy and very squally N.W.
gale, with misty dark weather. Yesterday the wind was
N.N.W. and a hot wind, such as is felt in New Zealand.
We have had it before, but not so hot as yesterday. The
thermometer was up to 60°, which is usually about 48°;
barometer at 29.25.
On Wednesday we went across the bay in the boat, and
in two hours and a half shot 150lbs. weight of widgeons
and a one-year-old seal, part of which we had roasted for
dinner to-day-it was delicious. It took three men a
whole day to pluck the widgeons-I don't know how many
there are of them. We have got them salted and hung
up; they are in reserve for the winter, when we may not
be able to go out to look for food. During the remainder
of the time we have been occupied in laying ways for
hauling up and launching the boat on, and making a jetty;
cutting down and clearing the timber from about the
house, and getting and tying in bundles of thatch for
the sides of the house, &c. It will take an immense
quantity of grass to thatch it round. I may here give a
description of this castle of ours. It is 24 feet long by 16
wide. The walls are 7 feet high, roof 14 feet. The
corner posts and centre posts, which are made of spars
from the ship, as also the wall plates and ridge poles, are
let three feet into the ground. The walls or sides and ends
are made of timber out of the bush, placed upright, and
let into the ground about a foot. They are far from being
straight, consequently they are far from being close to-
gether. This is why we are obliged to thatch them.
They are now covered with old canvas outside, but it lets
a great deal of wind through. The door is a very good
16
Our Household Furniture.
one, made of inch boards. The floor is also boarded, and
tolerably good. There are two small squares of glass,
which were taken out of the cabin of the vessel. The
rafters are sticks out of the bush, placed two feet apart.
There is a double cover on the roof, with two sets of
rafters and two ridge poles. The fireplace is built of
stone, as high as the walls of the house; above, it is made
of copper, tin, zinc, and boards towards the top, and is
15 feet high. The fireplace inside the walls is 6 feet,
with four walls 1 foot thick. Furniture-stretchers to
sleep on, six feet from floor; large dining table in centre,
7 feet by 3 feet, with benches on each side. I sit on a
keg at the head. A table at one end, at which I am
now writing, and where I keep my writing-desk, chrono-
meter, barometer, books, &c. This, the north end of the
house, is occupied by Mr. Raynal and myself; the men
occupy the other end. A cook's dressing table stands
behind the door which opens towards the men's end.
There are also two or three shelves round the place, which,
with a pair of bellows and my looking-glass, complete the
furniture. It is now just four o'clock in the afternoon
(three in Sydney), and it has commenced to rain heavily,
with every appearance of continuing for the night. We
have trenches all round the house two feet deep, which
keep the floor perfectly dry, and no water has yet come
through the roof. The barometer is now at 29·15. Ther-
mometer 48°, which is 16° above freezing and 6° below
temperate.
Sunday, February 28, 1864.-Another dreary week has
passed. We have had very bad weather. It has rained
every day. We have not been able to do much at the
thatching; but we made a commencement yesterday, and
worked at it between the showers. Last night it blew a very
heavy gale from S.S.W., with frequent heavy showers. On
Wednesday Mr. Raynal went across the bay in the boat,
and got a one-year-old seal and two dozen widgeons; these
we find very good, salted and smoke-dried. He also tried
Method of Curing Seal Skins.
17
fishing; but it came on to rain, and he was obliged to
return without catching any. We have found a root, which
is very abundant all over the island, and it is very good
food; it makes a very good substitute for bread and
potatoes. There is also a great deal of sugar in it. We
intend to make sugar from it. We have also found a
method of curing the seal skins without salt. This is by
stretching them and fledging them clean, and rubbing them
well with strong lye (made from ashes) two or three times
a day, until they are perfectly dry; then scour them well
with sandstone, take them down, roll them up tight, and
beat them on something solid with a smooth piece of wood
until they are quite soft. This does not injure the fur, and
they remain quite soft. We shall be able to make either
blankets or clothes of them. I sleep on one of them now,
and it is very comfortable.
Amongst the birds with which the woods abound, there
are three kinds of songsters. Some of them are so tame
that they come and feed out of our hands, and come into
the house and remain there for hours. They also fly to
the house in flocks when the hawks are after them. We
shoot all hawks that come near. We have killed five,
and this encourages the small birds to come near.
Thursday it blew fresh from the eastward, with 24 hours'
heavy rain. During the remainder of the week the wind
has been westerly, until last night; and to-day S.S.W.
Barometer 29.50; thermometer 40º.
On
Sunday, March 6, 1864.-The first part of the past week
was very fine, and we got on tolerably well with the
thatching, and got more grass; but since Wednesday we
have had continual drizzling rain, with light westerly
winds, until midnight last night, when it came on to blow
a very heavy gale, and continued ever since, with frequent
showers. On Thursday I went across to Figure-of-Eight
Island (as I have named it from its shape), and I discovered
a reef of rocks which are dry at low water. They bear
about S.W. from the N.W. end of the island, and the centre
C
18
Conflict with a Tiger Seal.
of the reef, which is round and composed of sharp loose
rocks; it is about a cable's length from the shore, and con-
nected with it. There is barely a passage for a boat, and
very shallow water outside of the distance of a cable and
a half, where the centre drops suddenly into eight fathoms,
close to the edge, and deepens fast from that outwards.
But I was not particular about sounding far from it, as it
came on to rain, and we wanted seal, as our fresh pro-
visions had been out for two or three days; so we landed
on the island, and found three mobs of seals asleep.
There were from 30 to 40 in each mob, and there were a
great many very young calves amongst them. These we
wanted to get without killing the old ones.
I had only
two men with me; so we took our clubs and each of us
took a mob, and I suppose in ten seconds we had knocked
down ten calves from two to three months old, and one
two-year-old seal. We had to go right in amongst them,
and, although they woke up, we were so quick about the
job that they stared at us in confusion for a moment, and
then by a simultaneous movement rushed towards the
water. We could have got more, but one of the men was
at this moment attacked by the only remaining one, which
was a tremendous large bull—the largest tiger seal I have
seen (they were all tigers), and he fought like a tiger.
We immediately rushed to the rescue e; the poor fellow was
obliged to take to a tree till we came up, when all thrce
set on to the seal, and he showed fight bravely. It was as
long as ten minutes before we proved ourselves conquerors:
we should have been quite willing to get out of his way,
but he would not give us a chance. We were in a thick
bush, so that he had a decided advantage. However, we
left him, as he was too big for us to attend to when we
had so many little ones to look after. This was the
greatest piece of excitement I have had for a long time.
We got our booty into the boat, which was quite a load for
her, and returned to the camp. We had also a lot of
widgeons, which I had shot before landing. I had left my
Breaking-up of the Wreck.
19
gun in the boat, or else I should have shot the big seal.
We salted all the meat excepting two seals, which we kept
for present use; and this afternoon I found a young seal,
not more than a month or six weeks old, sitting shivering
at the end of the house. I took him in, and some of them
wanted to keep him; but this of course we could not do,
as he would eat nothing but fish, and not even that yet; so
we killed him. I think he had lost his mother, for he was
very low in flesh and had nothing at all in his inside. So
this is more fresh meat. God is certainly good in sending
us plenty to eat. I hope and pray that He will soon send
some one in here that will take us away.
The 'Grafton' is breaking up fast to-day. There is a
heavy surf on with the gale. Her decks are coming up.
The barometer has been very high throughout the week;
it has not been below 29.50 until to-day, when it fell, from
10 o'clock last night till 9 o'clock this morning, from 29.58
to 28 at 9 A.M. The thermometer has been about 48°,
till to-day it is 47°.
Sunday, March 13, 1864.-My heart beats fast to-night as
I sit down to write, somewhat similar to what it might do
if I was about writing a love letter. I know that many a
bitter tear has been shed for me by this time, and most
likely to-day, as this is the end of another dreary month
since I left those I loved so much; and how many more
must pass, or how they will pass them until we meet
again, or whether we shall ever meet again on earth-
Heaven only knows. These thoughts, and such as these,
which now prey continually on my mind, are maddening.
I feel as if I was gradually consumed by an inward fire. I
strive, by occupying my hands as much as possible, to
dispel these sad feelings; but it is utterly impossible. A
melancholy is getting hold of me; I am getting as thin as
a lantern, and some disordered fluttering and heavy beating
of the heart, which causes a faintness, is troubling me. I
have felt this before, but only on one particular occasion,
and that is some time ago. Were it not for the hope that
c 2
20
A Battle with the Seals.
I shall yet again be of service to my family, I think my
spirit, if not my health, would break down; although under
my present afflictions my continual prayer is that God
may soon deliver me out of them. During the weck the
weather has been variable; wind generally from N.W.
On Wednesday we had a very heavy gale, similar to the
one the 'Grafton' went on shore in ; wind baffling between
N.W. and S.W. On Friday Mr. Raynal and others went
to Figure-of-Eight Island; they killed seven young seals.
There were great numbers on the island. They might
have killed any quantity, but we did not want them; we
salt and dry what we cannot use fresh. Barometer 29.70;
thermometer 48°.
Sunday, March 20, 1864.-During the last week we
have had nothing but a succession of westerly gales, which
only cease for a few hours and then blow again with great
fury; and it has also rained almost constantly until yester-
day at noon. Since then we have had very frequent falls
of hail and snow: some of the mountains are now quite
capped with snow. I fear we shall have a great deal of
this sort of weather in the winter. However, we have got
a good stock of meat hanging up in the house, and so long
as we can get to the roots we shall not starve; but these
roots will not keep long out of the ground. We are
obliged to pull them as we want them. We had a few
hours of moderate weather on Friday, and we went to
Figure-of-Eight Island, and found the seals, both young
and old, very numerous; but this time we had a regular
pitched battle with some thirty or forty of them on the
beach. We vanquished them, and got seven young calves.
There were four of us; Mr. Raynal had the gun, but I did
not want him to fire at them if we could avoid it, so he
stood by as a reserve while we poured on to them with our
clubs, and there was not a shot fired. We killed a number
of old ones; but these we had to leave, as they would only
have been an incumbrance to us, and the seals were run-
ning around in such numbers, and in such a threatening
Seals and their Habits.
21
manner, that we hurried away as fast as possible. There
was a great number of young ones left on the island, and
there is no doubt but they would have landed with in-
creased numbers, and attacked us again. The very young
seals do not like to take the water, as they cannot swim
very well. When they first go into the water the old cow
carries them on her back, or rather carries it, for I have
not seen any of them with more than one calf, and they
have a great job to get them down to the water at first. I
have known a cow to be three days in getting a calf half a
mile to get it into the water. When you surprise the
calves when they are staying at the edge of the water, they
will always run on shore and make for the bush. The last
time that Raynal went without me the seals were very
savage. In the water they attacked the boat; one left the
marks of his teeth in an oar, and another one was going to
jump into the boat, but Raynal shot him.
killed in the water they sink like a stone.
When they are
I think we have
The steward at-
We have got a nest of young parrots.
had them at the house a fortnight now.
tends to them; they are getting on very well. I think it
very strange to find parrots here at all, and it is more sur-
prising that they.should have young ones at this season of
the year. The common field mouse is also here. I do not
know whether they are very numerous all over the islands
or not, but there are a good many about the house. We
have not been able to do anything at the thatching this
week. About one-third of the house is finished, and the
grass is all bundled for the remainder. We are only waiting
for weather to put it on; but whether it will ever be favour-
able again or not I cannot say. In going to and from the
island, on Friday last, I sounded all the way. I found a
bank with eleven fathoms on it in the middle of the har-
bour, and well to windward of this is good anchorage
ground. It will be, however, in the chart I have in course
of construction; and as I have not yet named all the points,
it is useless to note down any bearings here. We cure all
22
The Harbour Explored.
the skins; we shall soon have enough to make a suit of
clothes each. This is seals' blood that I am writing with
now, as our black ink is done. I think this will do very
well. There is no getting it out of our clothes, although
we use strong lye and soft soap, which we made ourselves.
Monday is our washing day. We have strict regularity in
all we do. Barometer 28.78; thermometer 36º.
Sunday, March 27, 1864.-During the first part of the
last week the weather was very boisterous, and a good
deal of hail and snow. The wind was generally from
W.N.W., barometer sometimes as low as 28.62, and the
thermometer was so low as 35°. Since Wednesday the
weather has been tolerably fine, with fresh westerly winds
and cloudy, though mild and pleasant weather. We have
finished thatching the house, and find it very warm and
comfortable. It has taken 5000 bundles of thatch, each
bundle weighing a pound, so that the total weight of
thatch on the sides and ends of the house is about two and
a quarter tons. The roof remains covered with canvas.
To-day I went in the boat up the harbour; I have not been
there before. This harbour is rather narrow, but quite
broad enough for any ship to work up. It is about half
a mile wide in the narrowest place, which is about the
entrance, and in some places it is about one and a half
miles wide. I find that this is the proper place to anchor
a vessel in; it is well sheltered from the prevailing winds,
and there appears to be none of those sudden gusts of wind
which are so frequent and dangerous in this part of the
harbour. The depth of water in the middle harbour is
from thirty fathoms at the entrance, gradually decreasing,
and good anchorage will be found in from twelve down to
four fathoms (stiff blue clay), about one mile and a half
from the head of the harbour, and the water shallows so
gradually for this mile and a half that a great deal of
the head of the bay must be left dry at low water. It
was half flood when I was up there.
There are several streams of beautiful water emptying
Unsuccessful Fishing.
23
into the bay; two of them are the largest I have yet found
in any part of the islands. We tried fishing, but unsuccess-
fully. We killed one seal and a number of widgeons, and
then returned home. We did not see any seals on shore,
but we saw great numbers in the water. I suppose, as it
was a fine day, they were all out fishing. There must be
great numbers of fish in these harbours to supply so many
seals, but we have not yet found out how to catch them.
All the fish we have got as yet we have picked up amongst
the seaweed and stones on the beach at low water.
ing the last day or two all the snow has disappeared from
the mountains. I hope we shall have some fine weather
yet before the winter sets in. The barometer is very high
to-day, 30 20; and the thermometer 47° in the shade. I
have found another small bottle of black ink, so I shall
use it while it lasts; for I see that the seals' blood fades
away very much.
Dur-
24
Visit to Figure-of-Eight Island.
CHAPTER III.
VISIT TO FIGURE-OF-EIGHT ISLAND.-DOGS DISCOVERED.-
ROYAL TOM. BIBLE READINGS.
Sunday, April 3, 1864.-Since last Sunday we have had
tolerably fine weather, although we have had two days.
of rainy, misty weather, but mild withal. The wind has
generally been very light from the westward, but at mid-
night last night it shifted to S.W., and has blown a fresh
breeze, with occasional showers of hail, throughout the
day. The barometer has kept very high, and the thermo-
meter has been about 50° until to-day, when it was 40°;
at noon, barometer 29.92. On Monday last we went to
Figure-of-Eight Island to get some young meat. We found
the young seals as numerous as ever, if not more so; and
this time they would not take to water at all. We were
obliged to go right in amongst them, and they showed fight
bravely. However, we got three young ones without kill-
ing any old ones. This was as many as we wanted, as we
do not intend salting any more down, as we generally get
one fine day in the week, when we can go and get more;
and we can keep the meat a week very well now, for the
flies are nearly all gone, and we keep it hanging at the top
of a high tree, where they do not touch it.
While on the island we found a place where some party
had camped at some time. There is no doubt but that
they were killing seals, as we found a number of bricks,
which no doubt had been used for their fry works. There
had been two tents pitched, and, from the appearance of
the ground where they had their fire, I should judge that
they had remained about a week. The ground all over
Traces of a Whaling Party.
25
these islands, except on the mountains, is of a turfy
nature, and burns away wherever a fire is made; it is by this
means that I judge from the place where the fire has been
how long they have remained. How long it is since they
were here I am unable to conjecture, but it is evident that
ships visit this harbour sometimes; very probably it has
been a whaler come in for wood or water, and finding the
seals so numerous has taken a few. I am delighted to see
even this sign of ships coming here: there is no doubt but
we shall be released from our bondage some time—perhaps
sooner than we expect. May it please God for it to be so!
We sailed all round one of the heads of this harbour,
taking soundings all the way, and I find anchorage in 10
and 11 fathoms; but there is an excellent anchorage in 15
fathoms, between Figure-of-Eight Island and Round Point.
On Wednesday Mr. Raynal and I went to try fishing
from the shore. We caught one very nice little cod, about
three pounds weight, but the seals were round in swarms,
which drove the fish away. We found a place about three
miles from the house, where a fearful rush of water has
come down from the mountains very recently, tearing
away trees, earth, and rocks in its track to the harbour.
We now found only a very small stream trickling down its
bed, and if the terrific rush of water which has made this
havoc has been caused by the thaw of the little snow which
was on the hills a fortnight ago, I don't know what we
may expect after the winter's snow. However, our house
stands on pretty high ground; I think it will be out of all
danger.
The
Sunday, April 10, 1864.-Another month is now nearly
gone since we commenced this unfortunate voyage.
days are getting short, and a long, stormy, dreary winter
is before us, without the slightest prospect of getting away;
and how those dear ones whom I left manage to battle with.
the misery in which my ambition and folly has plunged
them, I dare not think. Oh! if they were only here with
me, how happy would be my condition compared with
26
Accident to the Flag-staff.
what it is; for I am provided with a good shelter, and
plenty to eat, and I should then think that they shared
these blessings at least; but as it is, I know not to what
extremities they may be reduced. My urgent prayer to
Heaven is that I may be permitted to retain my health and
reason through this fearful and distressing trial. During
the past week we have had very little fine weather. Mon-
day was the only fine day we have had; and on this day
we went to Figure-of-Eight Island, and without much
trouble got four young calves. The seals were as plentiful
as ever on the island. We took two without getting
amongst the old at all. The other two we were obliged to
go in amongst a mob to get, but it was admirably done.
We are getting quite expert at the business. Myself and
one of the men ran in amongst them, and knocked down and
dragged away the two young ones before the old ones had
time to collect themselves sufficiently to offer any resistance.
On Tuesday morning it was quite calm. We went down
to the harbour to look at the flag we put there some time
ago.
We found that the flag was entirely blown away;
and the staff, which is a stout pole, and was well set into
the ground, was nearly blown down; and the bottle, which
was well tied to it, was also shaken down and lying on the
ground. It requires something exceedingly well fastened
in the ground to withstand the almost constant and terrific
gales which blow here. I intend to put up a white board,
in such a manner that it cannot blow down, on the first
fine day. Before we arrived at Flagstaff Point it com-
menced to blow from the N.N.W. We had no time to
lose, but returned as quickly as possible, and it was as
much as we could do with three oars and me sculling to
get across the bay, and under the lee of the weather shore;
indeed several times, when we were losing ground, I
thought we should have to run back and beach the boat
somewhere. However, we managed to get across, pulled
nearly to the head of the harbour, and, taking in ballast,
sailed across to the house, where we arrived at 5 P.M.
Dogs Discovered in the Bush.
27
drenched with rain and spray, and fainting with hunger;
for we had had nothing to eat since breakfast.
Our first intention in going afloat was to try fishing;
but being unsuccessful, and the morning so fine, I deter-
mined on going down to look at the flag. It is almost
impossible to catch fish here with lines, as the seals are
attracted by you, and come round in such numbers that
they drive the fish away. In going down the harbour I
took a number of soundings, and I have discovered another
reef of rocks, which are dry at low water spring tides, and
might prove very dangerous to anyone working up for the
Middle Harbour, where the best anchorage is, as they lie
about a cable's length from the southern point of its
entrance; and a vessel would naturally bring that point,
so as to weather in as far as possible on the first board.
Their position is marked by kelp, which always should
be avoided in this harbour. Barometer 29.50; thermo-
meter, 47°.
Sunday, April 17, 1864.-The first and middle parts of
the past week were very fine, with a high barometer.
Wind generally from the west and W.N.W.; but yesterday
and to-day it has been blowing a hard gale from the
N.N.W.; and about four o'clock this evening it backed
into north, and is now (8 P.M.) raining heavily, and blow-
ing a hard gale. We have found another place where the
seals assemble in great numbers; it is on this shore, about
a mile and a half from the house. We do not intend to
disturb them, unless on account of bad weather during the
winter, when we cannot get to the island.
On Tuesday morning one of the men came running in,
in a state of excitement, and told me that there were two
dogs in the bush; he had left the other man in the bush to
watch them till he came and told me. I immediately went
to the place where the other man was left, but when I got
there the dogs were gone. I saw their tracks, and was
satisfied that they had seen dogs; and from the men's de-
scription of them I think they were sheep dogs. One day,
28
Precautions at Flagstaff Point.
about three weeks after the wreck, we heard what we all
supposed to be a dog barking; but as we had not heard or
seen anything of dogs, we had almost forgotten all about
it. But it is now evident that there are dogs on the
island. At a short distance from where they were seen we
found a dead seal calf, which they had evidently killed; so
it appears that they subsist partly on seals' meat. We find
that there is another small four-footed animal an inhabitant
of this island also; this animal burrows, and undoubtedly
only comes out at night. We have set snares, but have
failed to catch them: their footmarks are similar to those
of a pig. We catch small fish in the creek, which are
delicious eating; they resemble the trout, but are very
small. It would take four of the largest we have yet caught
to weigh a pound, but they are very numerous. Barometer
29.50; thermometer 50°.
Sunday, April 22, 1864.-During the past week the
weather has been exceedingly fine and mild; we have had
some misty and frosty weather, but no disagreeable weather
to speak of. The wind has been generally from N.N.W.
On Wednesday and Thursday the wind was light from the
S.E., which is something very unusual. On these two
days we went down to Flagstaff Point, and erected a board
4 feet long and 2 feet 6 inches wide, painted white, with a
large letter 'N' painted blue on it, to indicate that they
must turn to north. I also secured a bottle to the board,
to notify to anyone where we are, and giving them some
instructions for working up the harbour. But should they
not be able to send a boat on shore to get the bottle, the
letter 'N' will indicate which way they are to turn; and
when they are round the point we shall see them, and I
shall get on board as soon as possible. The board is
elevated about sixty feet from the mean level of the sea,
and will be visible at some distance outside the Heads.
While we were down there we caught a few very nice cod-
fish, and I took a number of bearings which I had not been
able to get before. I also sounded in all directions; my
Royal Tom.
29
line was only 35 fathoms long, and in many places I could
not get bottom.
On Monday we went to Figure-of-Eight Island. We did
not find the seals as numerous as previously; the day
being very fine, and it being flood tide when we were there,
no doubt they were fishing. We took a bull and cow seal,
both yearlings, very large and fat. During the week the
barometer has been very high; on Wednesday it was at
30-36, to-day it is 29.50; thermometer, 51°.
Sunday, May 1, 1864.-We now enter upon another
month of imprisonment, which is commencing with bad
weather. During the last three days it has been blowing
a very heavy gale of wind, between S.W. and W.N.W.
Sometimes there is a lull for about four hours, and then it
comes on with great fury. The squalls are terrific, and
accompanied with hail or rain. Sometimes the hills are
quite white, but it soon disappears. The last month, on
the whole, we had exceedingly fine weather-much finer
than any we had at midsummer; but I suppose we may
now expect winter to set in in earnest.
On Wednesday we went to the island for fresh meat.
There was not a great number of seals on shore. It was
flood tide, and I find that this is their fishing time. They
are more numerous on shore during the ebb tide. They
appear to assemble in greater numbers on the island than
anywhere else, exactly at the head of the western arm,
which is too far away for us to visit them there; but we
also know many other places where they camp. Certain
mobs collect and camp on their own particular ground,
and also keep together in the water, but do not confine
themselves to any particular part of the harbour. This I
have ascertained from observations. There is one seal
which we all know particularly well wherever we see him;
he appears to be the king of the mob which belong to
Figure-of-Eight Island. He is a very large dark coloured
bull, of the tiger breed; we have named him Royal Tom.
He is not at all afraid of us when we see him on shore; if
30
Evening Bible Teachings.
the seals around him run away, 'Tom' will not move, and
takes very little notice of us. One day some of the men
tried to drive 'Tom' into the water, but he would not
move for some time; but after some trouble I suppose
they got him to start. He went leisurely down to the
water, and there he remained scratching himself; 'Tom'
had a dry coat, and did not fancy wetting it just then, and
into the water he would not go. He is too big and old for
use, therefore we did not wish to kill him; indeed I do
not allow any seals to be disturbed at all excepting those
we intend to kill; but as I was not there myself I suppose
the boys wanted to have a little fun to themselves, which
would have cost them a reprimand had I heard of it in a
direct manner. But they kept this to themselves; I only
heard of it in an indirect manner, and so I let it pass. I
have adopted a measure for keeping them in order and
subjection, which I find to work admirably, and it also acts
beneficially on my own mind. This is, teaching school in
the evenings, and reading prayers and reading and ex-
pounding the scriptures on Sunday to the best of my
ability. We have done this for some time now, and I am
happy to say with much greater success than I at first
expected. They are all getting particularly fond of read-
ing, and hearing the Bible read. Some of them cannot
read yet, but they are learning very fast, and I have not
heard a profane word spoken for a long time. So much
for moral suasion. I trust that the result will be beneficial
to all parties. The barometer has been about 29.60 to
29.90 through the week; to-day it is 29.30, and rising. I
hope we shall have finer weather to-morrow. Thermo-
meter 40°.
Tuesday, May 10, 1864.-For some few days back I
have not been very well. To-day I have had a very severe
headache, but as it has now left me, and as I did not
write on Sunday as usual, I shall do a little of it this
evening; and, moreover, as this is the anniversary (32nd)
of my birth, I have made it a point for some years back to
Method of Making Beer.
31
pledge my mother on this day in a bottle of good old port
-but unfortunately it is out of my power to do so to-day;
but I have not omitted to pledge her for all that. I have
done so in a glass of beer of our own making, and what
we use as a substitute for tea. It is not very good, but
still it is preferable to cold water. It is made from the
root which now forms a very material part of our food, and,
as I have before stated, contains a considerable quantity
of sugar. To make the beer we grate the root on a large
grater (as we do for eating), boil it, let it ferment, and
then put it in a cask and draw off as we use it. In using
the root for food we fry it in oil (seal oil). It eats some-
thing like sawdust, but we are very thankful that we have
it, otherwise we should have to live entirely on seals' meat,
fowl, and fish, as our little stock of provisions which we
had when we were wrecked has long since been exhausted.
Nothing remains of it but a few crumbs of biscuit, which
are regularly placed on the table, but only to look at-or
point at,' as Paddy would say for no one touches it.
We find that we can catch fish in great abundance, but
we have only very recently found out the secret of catch-
ing them, which is done by fishing amongst the rocks with
a short line tied to the end of a stick. The best time for
catching them is the first quarter flood. One man can go
out, and in an hour will return with sufficient fish to last
us three days, and we eat them at every meal; and since
we find that we can get them so easily, we eat very little
seal meat; and the root, which we call sacchrie (from its
saccharine property), eats better with fish than anything
else.
Our parrots, which we have now had for some time, are
getting on very well, and are beginning to talk; but, un-
fortunately, yesterday they all got out of the cage, and we
have lost one of them-two remain.
Since I last wrote the weather has been very boisterous,
and a good deal of snow has fallen. Yesterday everything
was quite white, and it lay quite thick on the mountains;
32
Mosquitoes.
but to-day the wind has been from the N.W., heavy gale
with rain, and has taken it all away. We have not yet.
actually had frost, although the thermometer has been
down to 33°, which is only one degree from it. The flies
have not left us yet; the blow-flies are not so bad, but what
is most extraordinary is that the mosquitoes are almost
as troublesome as they were in the summer; they bite
like fury, with the thermometer at 35°. We have not seen
the dogs since I mentioned them before, but we frequently
fall in with their tracks; they do not come near the house.
On Saturday last the barometer was very low-28.46 ;
to-day it is 28.80; thermometer 44°. I felt inclined to
write some, but my scholars are troubling me, so I shall
quit.
Thoughts of Home and Prayers for Release. 33
CHAPTER IV.
WINTER IN AUCKLAND ISLAND.-THE MOUNTAINS.-AN
EQUINOCTIAL GALE.-A WEARY JOURNEY.
Sunday, May 15, 1864.-Six long and dreary months.
have now passed since I left Sydney, and the idea of the
sad lot which may and must have fallen on those I love so
much, wrings my soul with agony, and a remorse which I
fear is crushing me fast to the earth. Oh, my God! how
long is this to last? Oh, release me from this bondage!
Night and morning, daily and in my dreams, I offer up my
prayers
to Thee. Oh, hear me! and release me that I may
flee to the succour of those dear innocent ones who are
now suffering for my folly. Give me but an opportunity
of making amends for this and many other thoughtless
acts-the hope of which only at present sustains me.
Were it not for this hope, I should pray for death, or
perhaps seek it by my own hand. What is life to me, but
for their sakes? A mere burden. I have already lived a
long and chequered life in a few short years; I should feel
satiated with it, but for their sakes may it please God to
spare me, at least as long as them. But set me at liberty
to provide for them, I will be content even with separation;
but let me not have doomed them to wretchedness and
misery. Hear my prayer, O Lord! and grant my release.
During the last three or four days we have had the most
varied and extraordinary weather that ever I remember
witnessing. There have not been two hours alike during
the whole time, except in the general calm or very light
airs, varying from all points of the compass; but chiefly
from S. and S.E. One hour the sky is clear, with bright
sunshine, and only a few bright fleecy clouds visible,
D
34
The Shock of an Earthquake.
almost without motion. Then suddenly rises an imperious
cloud, which immediately covers the whole sky, and down.
falls a pelting shower of rain, sleet, or hail, generally
accompanied with a thick fog. Thus it continues night
and day. The barometer has kept very low; yesterday it
was down to 28-30, but it has been rising rapidly since,
and is now (11 A.M.) at 29.18, which is the only apparent
indication of a change. There is snow on the tops of the
mountains. We have not yet had frost where we are,
although yesterday at noon the thermometer was as low
as 34°. This morning, about six o'clock, we felt the
shock of an earthquake; it was not violent, but the tremor
continued about a minute. Eight P.M.-The weather con-
tinues as before, only that the showers are now alternately
sleet and snow. Barometer 29.45; thermometer 33°.
Sunday, May 22, 1864.-The weather continued as be-
fore described until yesterday morning, since which time
it has been dull, cloudy, and foggy; but wild, with N.W.
airs. On Friday morning the ground was all covered with
snow; but now it has disappeared even from the tops of the
mountains, and the birds are again singing blithely. The
blow-flies are busy again, and I begin to think that the
winter will not be severe enough to banish them entirely.
The small flies, or what I have called mosquitoes, will
evidently not leave, for on Friday, with the thermometer at
freezing (32°), they were biting. We have seen one of
the dogs again, and we have also seen one of those animals
which I have before mentioned as burrowing in the earth.
The one that we saw was up a tree, and the dog was bark-
ing at him; but on seeing us they both made off. The
animal had short legs and short ears, a long tail, and grey-
coloured fur like a cat, which he somewhat resembles, only
that his body is long, and not so big round as that of a cat.
This animal evidently lives upon birds and eggs, from the
fact that we frequently find feathers and egg shells about
their holes. Speaking of eggs, we have not as yet found
any; but probably we arrived here too late in the season
Scarcity of Provisions.
35
The seals do not appear to come on shore in the day-
time so much as they used to do. We very seldom see
any on shore now, unless we wait for them coming up
late in the evening, or go before daylight in the morn-
ing, and get them before they go into the water.
day the barometer is 30-3, thermometer 46°.
To-
Sunday, May 29, 1864. — It has been blowing a very
heavy gale during all the past week, with continued hail,
snow, and rain, and yesterday thunder and lightning: the
wind was from between S.W. and N.W. It has been
impossible to launch the boat, or even to go out of the
house, and we have to live entirely on salt seal, roots,
and cold water; for we have been obliged to abandon
the beer, which I have before mentioned, as it gave us all
the bowel complaint. But yesterday I sauntered out with
one of the men, and we managed to kill a seal; but we
had to carry it on our backs a distance of about two miles,
which is no joke, over these rocky beaches, and through
this thick bush. However, we were glad to have it for the
carrying. Mr. Raynal is again laid up, with a sore finger,
and one of the men is also laid up, with a sprained ankle.
Since noon the weather has moderated: the glass is rising,
and I think we shall be able to get out the boat to-morrow.
The barometer was at the lowest on Friday, 28.60; to-day
it is at 29.40; thermometer 34°.
Sunday, June 5, 1864.-Since last Sunday the wind
has generally been very light, from between N.W. and W.,
with a great deal of fog and drizzling rain. The barometer
has been as high as 30-30, and the thermometer about
40°. On Monday we went up to the harbour, and paid a
visit to the island, to look for fresh meat; but to our dis-
appointment we found no seals there, and the island has
evidently been deserted by them for some time. Neither
do they appear to go on shore anywhere now so much as
they did in summer; but they appear more numerous in
the water than I have ever seen them. We managed to
get some mussels and two seals, but we had a long hunt
D 2
36
Forebodings of Hunger.
for them. It was late at night when we returned to the
camp. We have now got some good roads made about the
house, which was very necessary, for the ground is so soft
that after any part of it has been trodden a little it be-
comes mud, which in this damp weather never has a
chance to get dry. We are also getting a considerable
clearing round the place; for we burn a great deal of wood
-not less than a large cart-load a day. Consequently
it is getting cut down very fast. Light airs from N.W.
and thick fog to-day. Barometer falling, 29.50; thermo-
meter 40°.
Sunday, June 12, 1864. - During the past week the
weather has been bad. We have had a good deal of S.W.
and southerly gales, with snow; but this has all disappeared
again. Yesterday we went out in the boat to look for
something to eat; but unfortunately (and for the first
time) we got nothing but half-a-dozen small fish. We
were not able to get any mussels, as the tide was not low
enough (it being now neaps), and we did not see a single
seal on shore. They appear to keep in the water almost
constantly. Now, as the water is warmer than the air, and
they only come on shore in the night, after dark, to sleep,
and go into the water before daylight, it would be madness
for us to go through the bush to look for them in the
dark. They are very numerous in the water, and if we
actually get hard up for something to eat, I shall fasten
to one with a harpoon. But our boat is only a dingy,
and so frail that I am afraid she will not stand it, or else
I would have tried it before this time; for 'tis now a
fortnight since we got one, and for the last few days we
have lived on pickling. We have to look pretty sharp
after our bellies now, and I fear very much that we shall
go hungry yet before the winter is out.
It is very fortunate that the weather is not severely
cold, and I am somewhat surprised at it; for we have
scarcely had frost as yet, and it is now mid-winter. On
Friday morning we found ice in a tub, about as thick-as
A Mob of Seals.
37
a shilling, which is the first actual frost we have had.
Our parrots are beginning to talk, but I think they are
the ka-ka-po, a very rare bird, which is found in New
Zealand and on some of the Philippine Islands, and
eagerly sought after by naturalists. In the spring, if God
spares me, I intend to get as many young ones as I can.
Mr. Raynal has had a very bad finger. It was a fester,
and I thought at one time he would lose it; but it is now
out of danger. The man who sprained his ankle is also
well again. It is now seven months since we left Sydney.
I shall not attempt to give expression as to what I feel
on this point; but I may say that I begin to look forward
to the coming of summer, when surely we shall be re-
lieved. The barometer has been low, 28.60, during the
week, but it is now up again. Wind N.W., was S.E.
outside; barometer 29; thermometer 30°.
Monday, June 20, 1864.-Since Thursday last we have
had remarkably fine weather, with a slight frost, and
very light easterly airs and calms. This is the first easterly
wind we have had to continue more than six hours. On
Tuesday and Wednesday the wind was S. and S.S.W.,
light, with dark gloomy weather, fog, and drizzling rain,
which is something very extraordinary with southerly
wind. On Monday morning two of the hands went before
daylight to a place where we know a mob of seals frequent
in the night. They found great numbers on shore, and
just as the day began to break they began to go into the
water. They killed two cows. It is evident that they
only come up for a few hours in the night to sleep, and
stop in the water all the day.
On Friday we went down to Flagstaff Point, and, finding
our signal-board right, we caught fish and got mussels.
until dark, when we returned home with a load of mussels,
but only a few fish. We can manage very well for pro-
visions when the weather is fine, but still we have to look
very sharp after it, for the days are very short (they are
now at their shortest). We have only eight hours day-
A
38
A Visit to the Mountains.
light, and we have taken nearly all the fish and mussels
that were anywhere within two or three miles of the house;
and we cannot very well go any farther along the shores
without the boat. Besides, the mussels are very scarce
anywhere excepting at low water spring tides; and at
that time it is always dark now, as it is high water on
full and change days about noon.
Yesterday we all (excepting the cook) went on to the
mountains to the north, taking the same track up that I
took on the 24th January. We travelled on until we reached
the top of a mountain which is situated about the centre
of the island, and is, I think, the highest part of the land.
From here we had a full view of the whole group. The
south island, as I noticed on 13th January, is scarcely
disconnected, and one to the extreme north is at some
distance from the mainland-perhaps six miles, and it
may be about six miles in circumference. The whole
extent of the group from north to south I judge to be
30 or 35 miles, and about fifteen miles east and west at
the widest part. The western shore is high and bold,
particularly the southern end, carrying almost a straight
line N.N.E., and with one or two small islets (perhaps
there are more; I saw two) off the middle of the island,
but close to it. To the eastward of the extreme northern
part, there appears to be a number of dangerous sunken
reefs, on which the water breaks heavily, although it was
calm, and has been calm, or nearly so, for the last four
days. Some of these reefs extend to a distance of not
less than ten miles from the land.
On the eastern side of the island, from about the centre
of the coast line, the land trends away in a N.W. direc-
tion to its northern extremity. This part of the land is
much lower than the southern parts, and from the western
coast slopes away in undulating ridges to the N.E. shore,
which is cut up by indentions, small bays, and chasms.
From the appearance of this part of the island, I have no
doubt but it is swarming with seals. The shores are clad
1
The Giant's Tomb.
39
with scrub and stunted timber, similar to the shores of this
bay. The view from the summit of the mountain on
which we stood, at an elevation of about 800 or 1000 feet,
is something grand and magnificent; a prospect so rude
and craggy I have never met with. The summit of the
mountains consists of nothing but rocks, that are totally
barren and naked, and are thrown up in every possible
variety of shape and ruggedness. There are chasms and
perpendicular precipices, hundreds of feet deep, down
which it is fearful to look; and looking from these to the
sea, which is visible all round, gives a beautiful relief to the
eye. I have an outline sketch of the group. We were
seven hours out. The travelling on the top of the moun-
tains was very good, as all the springs and soft places were
frozen over. In coming back I caught a bird something
like a water-hen. Barometer, 30.20; thermometer, 32°.
Sunday, June 26, 1864.—I closed my note of last Mon-
day without furnishing the details of Sunday's excursion.
The mountain which we went on to we have, ever since we
had the misfortune to come here, distinguished by the
name of the Giant's Tomb. Its summit, when seen from
the bay, bears a very striking resemblance to an immense
coffin; and since I have been to it, I find that it will bear
the same appearance from the offing on the eastern and
N.E. sides of the island. On arriving there, we found this
apparent coffin to be a solid wall or ridge of rock, about
100 yards long and 20 feet thick, running in a N.W. and
S.E. direction; on the S.W. side about 20 feet high, and
on the N.E. side not less than 45 feet high. In its S.E.
end, which overlooks a valley, is a large cavern. This
valley is about a mile long, and appears not to be more
than 200 yards wide. It is bounded on both sides by pre-
cipitous rocks, rising to a height of from 600 to 800 feet.
Its head is bounded by a semi-circle of the same precipitous
nature, but rising to the height of about 1,000 feet; and at
the summit is the before-mentioned cave, into which we
managed to get, though not without exposing ourselves to
40
A New Plant Discovered.
the danger of falling from top to bottom. On our return
we found a plant, which we have not seen anywhere else
on this island; but there is plenty of it on Campbell's Island.
We brought some of it down and cooked it, and found it
very good to eat, and particularly good to put in the soup,
which is very purging; and we find that this vegetable has
a contrary effect. Everything here is evergreen, even the
grass. Some of the trees have blossoms now, and there
are small red berries which are at present ripe; they are
very good, and the birds are very fond of them. I am
reserving some of the seed; I have no doubt but with
cultivation they may be made a very nice fruit.
On Thursday morning we went down the harbour in the
boat, and at the break of day we landed and killed a seal,
the only one we saw on shore, although there were plenty
in the water. At low water we got a load of mussels, and
then went to select a place for keeping a look-out for a
vessel, when we begin to expect one. And now that the
shortest days are past, I begin to look forward with hope
towards the time when we may expect one.
Last night
we heard one of the dogs barking close to the house.
During the whole of the week, and up to four o'clock this
afternoon, the weather has been very mild-calm in the
night time, and very light northerly N.W. airs in the day;
but the weather generally dark, and gloomy, and foggy, with
the barometer about 300, and thermometer 44° at noon.
At 4 P.M. to-day a breeze sprang up from the westward,
and is now blowing a strong breeze, and squally, with fre-
quent showers. Barometer 29-20; thermometer, 30°.
Sunday, July 3, 1864.-Blowing a strong gale at
W.N.W.; barometer steadily rising from 29.50, where it
stood when the gale commenced; but before the gale com-
menced it had been down to 29.25. 8 P.M.: Barometer
standing at 29.96; gale continuing to blow steadily.. Mid-
night: Barometer perceptibly falling; weather showery
and foggy. It has been stormy during the whole of
the past week. On Tuesday and Wednesday a consider-
:
Uncertainty of the Barometer.
41
able quantity of snow fell-all the ground was covered;
but since midnight of Wednesday we have had a heavy
gale from the W.N.W., with much rain, which still
continues; but the barometer has been rising to-day.
Very likely the gale will take off at midnight. I find that
in the locality of these islands, as also on the coast of New
Zealand, the barometer is of very little service to a
stranger, and would, to say the least, lead his judgment of
the weather into error, by its strange irregularities. It
frequently falls below 29 inches, with light southerly airs
and fine weather, which continue so long as the baro-
meter keeps down (sometimes 60 hours); but immediately
after the barometer begins to rise, and gets above 29 inches,
it is followed by a gale commencing at S.W., and blowing
between S.W. and N.W. for generally three days, and dies
away at north. The gales following this, with a very low
barometer, are the heaviest, and generally accompanied by
rain, and blow with great fury. When the barometer falls
to 29.25 and again commences to rise, a strong gale may be
expected from the west, where it continues sometimes seven
days, and until the barometer has risen to 30 inches, when
it may be expected to die away suddenly. Again, the
barometer at 29.50 and lowering dark weather, a N.W. or
northerly gale may be expected; and these gales are
accompanied by much rain, and invariably haul to the
southward, and die away with a rising barometer, and are
of the shortest duration. But I should recommend the
stranger navigating these parts to be ruled by his own
judgment, independent of the barometer; but use great
caution, as these gales come on very suddenly.
The only time that the barometer can be implicitly relied
upon is when it is above 30 inches. Then the weather is
fine, with light airs, generally southerly, but sometimes.
east and north-east, which does not continue more than
two or three days. After this very fine weather, a gale
seldom comes on suddenly. A south-east gale, or even
fresh breeze, we have not yet had. As far as my experience
42
The Weather and the Barometer.
goes, I find the summer gales heavier, of longer duration,
and more frequent than those of the winter. In winter, or
in this winter, we have had the most moderate weather;
but fogs (which are frequent all the year round) are more
prevalent, and excessively dense during the latter season,
almost constantly enveloping entirely the land, and render-
ing its approach dangerous. On Thursday morning we got
three seals, after going out every previous morning with-
out success. We killed them about two miles from the
house, butchered them, and hung them up, carrying as
much as we could home with us. The weather has been
so bad ever since that we have not been able to launch the
boat to go for the remainder.
Monday, July 4, 1864.-Gale continued till 3 P.M., when
it backed to N.W. by W. and increased to a whole gale,
which has continued to blow from the same point with
great violence throughout the day. Weather dark, foggy,
and showery. Barometer: 9 A.M., 29.92; noon, 29·90;
4 P.M., 29.88; 8 P.M., 29.94; wind W.N.W., gale unabated;
10 P.M., 29.95; wind N.W., gale unabated.
Tuesday, July 5, 1864.-The gale continued until 3 A.M.,
and died away suddenly. Nine A.M.: Barometer 30·9, light
northerly airs, and foggy dark weather, though very mild.
Noon: Barometer, 3011; thermometer, in open air, 47°.
Thus, if the barometer gets above 30 inches, the gale is
done, and a day or two of fine weather may be expected;
but should it fall the slightest before it arrives at 30 inches,
whilst the gale is blowing, the wind will haul again to the
westward, and blow harder. But after blowing hard from
the westward, when it backs, and gets to the northward of
N.W., it invariably dies away, independent of the state of
the barometer. To illustrate Sunday's note on the weather
and barometer, I shall insert at full my observations since
that time.*
* One of the equinoctial gales of September, 1864, commenced on the
6th, from the north-west, with the barometer at 29.75; but it immediately
An Equinoctial Gale.
43
Sunday, July 10, 1864.-Tuesday last was a fine, mild
day, with light northerly airs. The barometer rose to
fell to 29.25, and again rose to 29-30, the gale gradually hauling to the
southward; and on the 8th was at south, and remained there 54 hours.
On the 9th it again backed to the westward, barometer fluctuating between
29.75 and 29.40. On the 11th it was at north-west, where it stood 36
hours. During this part of the gale the weather throughout was dark and
gloomy, and generally foggy, with almost constant alternate falls of hail,
snow, and heavy rain. On the 12th the gale backed farther to the
northward, and was accompanied by constant heavy rain, and black, imper-
vious fog. At 9 P. M. on the 13th the barometer was down to 28-65, wind
at N. N. W., gale moderating. From the 8th up to this time it blew with
great fury, and without the slightest intermission; great numbers of trees
were torn up by the roots. 11 A.M.-Calm. Noon.-Breeze from the
W.S.W., rain and fog continuing, barometer rising rapidly. 1 P.M.-
Strong gale from S. W.; weather as before. 6 P. M.-Barometer 29.25;
rain ceased, but fog continued. At 3 A. M. on the 14th the wind came
from the S. E., and increased to a brisk gale, gradually working to the
eastward; cloudy, misty weather, with frequent showers; barometer,
29.60. 15th.-Strong north-east gale and constant heavy rain; baro-
meter 29.24. 16th.-Wind moderate from the northward; weather
cloudy and misty until noon; barometer falling rapidly. From noon until
midnight, wind high from N.E., with constant heavy rain; barometer 26
inches. 17th.-Calm and cloudy until noon, with the barometer at 28.82.
From noon until 3 A. M. on the 18th, wind light and puffy, between W.N.W.
and N. W., and steady rain; barometer still slightly falling, 28.82. 18th.
-From 2 till 9 A.M, wind light and fitful from W.S. W., and heavy rain.
9 A. M.-Wind S. W., and detached opening clouds; rain ceased, but occa-
sional showers fell throughout the day; barometer 28 82. At 4 P. M. the
glass commenced to rise; strong breeze. 8 P. M.-Strong breeze and
squally, with hail; barometer 29.15. 19th.-Fresh breeze from S. W.,
light scattered clouds, and fine weather, with three showers of hail, until
sunset, when the wind fell very light, and the sky became beautifully
clear. At 8 P.M. it again increased from S. W., and blew a hard gale,
with squalls and frequent showers of hail, until 3 A. M. on the 20th, when
it again moderated to a fresh gale, and remaining at S.W. Hail-squalls
continuing at 9 A. M.; barometer standing at 29.86. Noon.-Barometer
at 29.70, weather dark and cloudy, gale inclined to increase. 8 P.M.-
Strong and dark, misty, showery weather; wind inclined to westward;
barometer 29.80. During the night it blew a very hard gale from W.S.W.,
with frequent heavy squalls and showers of rain. 21st.-At 9 A. M. baro-
meter stationary at 29.80; weather as last described. Noon.-Wind
44
Surprising Mildness of the Weather.
32.25 and fell again suddenly, and was followed by a
strong north-east gale on Wednesday, which lasted 24
hours, with dark cloudy weather. On Thursday we had a
hot wind from the N.N.W., and rain during the latter part.
Thermometer at noon stood at 52°, barometer at 29.22.
Since Thursday the wind has been north-west by north,
fresh breeze, and almost constant rain; but the weather
has kept very mild-in fact it is much more like summer
than winter; and to-day, with its alternate sunshine and
showers, has put me very much in mind of an April day at
home, although the present month corresponds to January
in the northern hemisphere. I had expected to find the
winter very severe, but thus far I am agreeably mistaken.
I hope I may be mistaken on the whole. The birds con-
tinue their merry song, and the blow-flies are quite trouble-
some again. The mosquitoes, or, more strictly speaking,
sand-flies, have never ceased to be troublesome. To-day
we heard the dogs barking, but they were at the other
side of the bay. Barometer rising, 29; 8 A.M., thermo-
meter 48°.
Sunday, July 17, 1864.-During the past week the
weather has been very variable, but without any bard
gales. About three weeks ago we commenced to look for
west, weather as before; barometer 29 82. 22nd.-Strong S. W. gale,
with passing temporary showers. 9 A. M. Barometer standing 29.82.
Noon.-Wind N. W., fresh gale, and foggy, wet weather; barometer
commenced to fall. 8 P. M.-Barometer 26 60, fresh gale, and fine, clear
weather. 23rd. At 3 A. M. barometer 29.30; brisk gale from north-
west; rain commenced to fall, and fell heavily, accompanied by thick fog.
9 A. M.-Barometer inclined to rise; wind a little to the northward of
N.W. N.N.W.
At 11 A.M. the gale died away suddenly at N. N. W.; calm till
noon, when a light breeze came from the southward. Heavy rain, and
fog still continuing. Barometer 29.40. This will sufficiently illustrate
my remarks of July 3rd on the weather and barometer; and by carefully
perusing these notes, it will be seen that that statement may, as a rule,
be admitted, but that the workings of the weather and barometer are so
eccentric that it is almost impossible to connect their inferences with
any degree of certainty.
Search for a Look-out Station,
45.
a place suitable for keeping a look-out, when we began to
expect a vessel; and as we did not succeed on that occa-
sion, we have occupied nearly all the past week in the
same object. I think we have at last fixed on a place,
although the place we have chosen is not a very good one
for a look-out, as we shall not be able to see a ship until
she is inside the heads; whereas I should have liked to have
been in some place where we could have seen clear out to
sea. But, under our present circumstances, I find that this
would be impossible; for we can find no such place where
those keeping the look-out would be able to provide them-
selves with food; for seals and roots are not to be found at
all places in the harbour, and where they are to be found
would be out of their reach.
Travelling along the shore is at the best tedious and
difficult, and in many places impossible; so that they would
have to depend entirely on the people at home for supplies;
and as the weather is so bad and uncertain, should we go
to what would really be a good place, those who were there
might, perhaps, starve before supplies could be got to
them. Besides, there is no safe place for keeping the boat
should she be caught down there in a breeze, and unable
to get back. As, for instance, on Thursday, Mr. Raynal
and I went down by ourselves in the boat, and while down
there it came on a strong breeze, and we could not pull the
boat back again. We moored her in the safest place we
could find, and, taking the sail on shore, made a sort of
shelter, lit a fire, and sat by it all night. And a sorry
shelter we had, for it came on to rain heavily. The sail is
an old thing, full of holes, and we got quite wet. This, it
may be easily understood, was not very comfortable in 51°
south latitude, in the middle of winter. However, we were
obliged to put up with it. We were on the east side of
Flagstaff Point. We had brought a little cold seal and
roots with us, which had all been eaten on that day. On
Friday the breeze was stronger, and the rain continued to
fall heavily all day. In the morning we shot two widgeons
46
A Journey in the Boat.
-one we roasted, and the other we stewed by piecemeal in
a quart pot, which is used as a bailer for the boat. We
waited till about noon, expecting the breeze to take off;
and as there was no prospect of it doing so, I was obliged
to undertake the journey on foot to wind up the chro-
nometer, which, if neglected, would run down on the fol-
lowing morning; and as, although the boat was in danger,
one of us could do no good by remaining alone, we decided
on both of us going. It is needless to detail our troubles
in getting through the scrub and grass in a pelting rain.
Suffice it to say that we were six hours in going the distance
of five miles, and arrived home an hour after dark. We
had not a dry thread on us, and were almost sinking with
exhaustion from fatigue and hunger. The men had been
very uneasy about us, for they were afraid we were blown
out to sea. Fortunately they had killed a young seal of
this year on that morning, which was quite a treat, for it
is the first young seal we have got for a long time, and
assuredly we did ample justice to it; immediately after
which we went to bed, and required no rocking to put us
to sleep.
We rose on Saturday morning, without feeling any fur-
ther bad effects than a slight stiffness. After breakfast we
started back again to look after the boat, about which I
had felt very uneasy; for should we lose her we lose our
means of getting a living. We took about a day's pro-
vision with us; we should have found it impossible to
carry more. A strong breeze was blowing when we
started, and the grass and scrub were dry, as there had
been no rain since midnight; but before we had got half a
mile from the house it commenced to rain, and continued
until we arrived at the boat, which fortunately we found
as we had left it, only that she was about half full of water.
After bailing her out we made a fire, stripped off our
clothes one piece after another, and managed to get them
dry some way or other, and had something to eat in the
meantime. As the night came on the breeze died
away,
Plans for Keeping the Look-out.
47
and towards midnight we started off, and got the boat
home safe and sound. But we must not hazard leaving
the boat again: therefore I have decided on keeping the
look-out on the hill about two miles from the house, where
we can see a long way down the harbour, and we shall be
able to make a signal from the house for them to bring the
boat down should a vessel come in to look for us-and
surely one will. On the first day of October I intend to
go to keep the look-out myself. I shall remain there until
we give up all hopes of any one coming. It would be a
relief could I only feel sure that some one would come to
look after us. To-day is a beautiful day, with a very light
southerly air, and light scattered clouds, and the atmos-
phere is particularly clear; barometer, 30 inches; ther-
mometer, 40° at noon. The barometer quite deceived me
From the appearance of the
on Thursday morning.
weather I should have expected a fresh north-west breeze,
which actually came; but the barometer was at 3020,
which indicates light southerly or easterly airs.
Sunday, July 24, 1864.-Throughout the past week the
weather has been exceedingly fine; wind (when any)
generally from the south, or eastward; very light airs, but
frequently calm. On Thursday, and only for six hours,
the wind was very light, from the N.W. The thermometer
from last Sunday has been gradually, and almost imper-
ceptibly, falling, and is now at 29.50. It will be seen that
with the barometer between 29.50 and 30 inches, we have
frequently had strong gales, so that this is another instance
of its deceitfulness, and almost uselessness, in this locality;
but at the present moment, from its state, and the appear-
ance of the weather, which is dark, gloomy, and misty, I
have every reason to expect an easterly or N.E. gale.
On Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday we had sharp
frost. The thermometer was as low as 22°, and when it
was at 29°, which is 3° below freezing, the flies were blow-
ing, and the sand-flies were biting furiously. I give up all
hopes of their ceasing hostilities during the winter, so it
48
Annoyance from the Sand-flies.
may be imagined what an annoyance they are in the
summer, as all my descriptions would fail to convey an
idea of its extent. It is almost impossible to do anything
for them. Yesterday I was repairing the boat, and the
sand-flies were so troublesome that I was compelled to take
refuge in the house two or three times before I could
complete my job. They are worse near the water.
On Monday morning we went up the bay in the boat to
try and get a seal, as our fresh meat was just out. We
arrived some time before daylight, near a place which we
knew was frequented by a mob. We lay in wait until the
day began to dawn, when they began to come down to the
water, and we had the good fortune to kill four-three
young ones, and one cow, which was in calf. We might
have got one or two more, had we wanted them. But
these were more than we could use whilst fresh. One of
them we salted. Our greatest difficulty was to find out
where the seals are, for every time we kill any they shift
their camp, and I fear much that they will disappear alto-
gether before we get away from this infernal place. We
have heard the dogs barking several times during the last
week, but we have not seen them. We frequently see
their tracks in the woods, but not near the house. I think
it very strange that they don't; for I feel convinced that
these precise dogs have been left here by some one, for,
had male and female been left, there would have been
more now.
Prevalence of Easterly Winds.
49
CHAPTER V.
THE AURORA AUSTRALIS.-OUR DAILY FARE.-HEAVY SNOW-
FALL.-FAILURE TO REPAIR THE SCHOONER.
Sunday, July 31, 1864.-It is seven months to-day since
I entered the harbour, and during the past week we have
had more easterly winds than during the whole of the
previous time. I shall note down my slate notes whilst
these easterly winds are blowing; as, given in full, they
will better serve the purpose of a reference. On Sunday
last, July 24, at 3 P.M., the breeze coming from north-east
increased to a strong gale, which continued 36 hours, with
drizzling rain and thick fog (black north-easter), barometer
steadily falling. Monday, 25th-8 P.M., 29.14. Tuesday.
26th-3 A.M., the north-east wind died away, calm until
noon, latter part light breeze from west north-west, drizzling
rain and thick fog; barometer, 8 A.M., 29, 8 P.M., 29.12.
Midnight, calm. Wednesday, 27th-Until 3 P.M., fresh
south-east breeze and fog; at that time the wind became
fitful and gusty, hauled to the eastward and to the north-
east, steadily increasing to a brisk gale, with drizzling
rain and thick fog; barometer rising rapidly after 3 P.M.;
8 A.M. 29.12, 3 P.M. 29.15, 9 P.M. 29.28. Thermometer in
open air at noon, 46°. Thursday, 28th-The north-east
breeze continued until 3 A.M., fog and drizzling rain, and
then became puffy, and hauled to S.S.E., blowing a strong
breeze until 3 P.M. Latter part, moderate breeze from
the same point. Detached opening clouds, and occa-
sional slight falls of snow, with a clear atmosphere, and
rapid rising barometer through the day; 8 A.M., barometer
28.28, 8 P.M. 29.76; thermometer at noon 35°. Friday,
E
50
Appearance of the Aurora Australis.
29th-Light airs from the S.S.W., and fine clear weather
throughout these twenty hours. Frost in the evening.
This evening we saw the most vivid and beautifully
brilliant Aurora Australis that I have ever witnessed;
indeed it was as bright as ever I remember seeing the
Aurora Borealis. We frequently see these southern lights,
but only showing a pale light; whereas on this occasion
they shot up from the horizon to the zenith in streamers of
magnificently varied shades of light. Barometer standing
at 30-50; thermometer, 30°. Saturday and to-day light
westerly airs and foggy weather; barometer, 30·10; ther-
mometer, 38°. On Friday I went up to the Giant's Tomb.
I was alone, and started early in the morning, and did not
get home until dark. I came back by the head of the bay,
which made it a long and difficult journey. I took no-
thing to eat with me, as I had no intention of being away
so long; but I kept myself from feeling hungry by eating
a quantity of roots and drinking water, which, thank God,
is very plentiful, and acceptable in the absence of anything
better. The ground was frozen, and the travelling up and
on the top was very good; there was snow on the top, but
in returning I had a most horrible road. The weather was
particularly clear.
8 P.M.-About four o'clock I had to drop my pen in a
hurry, and go in the boat to get a seal that one of the men
had killed about three miles from the house. We have
just finished supper, so I shall pick up the thread of my
yarn. I had a much clearer and better view than I had
obtained on my last visit, as on that occasion, although
the weather was very fine, there was a slight deceptive
haze in the atmosphere, which I found deceived me a little :
for I find that there are several small islands at the north
end of the group. They are small and low, and to attempt
a passage through them with anything but a boat would
be attended with great risk, as the channels appear to be
· full of rocks, and the islands surrounded by sunken reefs
and banks, some of which are dry at high water, and on
Our Daily Fare.
51
which the sea breaks heavily. These dangers are visible
only from where I stood, amongst the islands, and on the
east side of them, and are not so far from the land as I
have before described them. Still, the north end of the
group should be approached with great caution.
I am
now of opinion that there is a bay, or perhaps a harbour,
on the west coast, opposite the small islets which I men-
tioned in my note of 20th June. I intend to go farther
the first time the weather permits, and determine this
matter, unless we should be so fortunate as to be picked
up before such opportunity presents itself.
I think I have never described our precise mode of
dragging out this miserable existence, for I cannot call it
living. Breakfast-Seal stewed down to soup, fried roots,
boiled seal, or roast do., with water. Dinner-Ditto ditto.
Supper-Ditto ditto. This repeated 21 times per week.
Mussels or fish are now quite a rarity; we have not been
able to get either for some time. The man who killed the
seal to-day had been fishing nearly all day, and had caught
one small fish. The men have stood it bravely thus far,
but it grieves me unspeakably to hear them wishing for
things which they cannot get. I heard one just now wish-
ing he had but a bucket of potato-peelings!
Sunday, August 7, 1864.-During the whole of last
week the weather has been very bad: it has been blowing
a very heavy gale from between west and north-west, with
either hail, rain, or snow continually falling. From noon
yesterday till three o'clock this morning the gale was at
its height; it blew a hurricane, and was the heaviest I have
ever seen while on shore. Our house is elevated about
30 feet above the mean tide level, and is about 50 yards
from the water; and during the height of the hurricane the
spray was frequently dashed against it in heavy showers.
Had it not been well built and secured it would inevitably
have been blown down, and we should have been house-
wrecked as well as shipwrecked. It is exposed to the full
fury of westerly gales, although it is well sheltered from
1
E 2
52
Thoughts of Repairing the Schooner.
every other quarter; but after standing this severe gale it
will stand anything. I have determined on trying to get
the schooner higher on the beach, so as to look at her
bottom. It may be that it is not impossible to make some-
thing of her yet: she is evidently very strongly built, for
she still holds together in spite of all the gales which have
blown since she was stranded, with the exception of a por-
tion of the decks, which came up some time ago. Had
we any tools I should have made an attempt to do some-
thing with her as soon as we had got ourselves sheltered
for the winter, and found it not so severe as I had antici-
pated.
As the spring is setting in, and Mr. Raynal thinks he
can make tools, I have determined to take her up, if possible,
and see what can be done. At the commencement of the
past week we had spring tides, which is the only time we
can do anything. On Monday and Tuesday we employed
ourselves at tide-time in clearing away the rocks and
boulders off the beach up above where she now lies, and
where she must come up, if she comes up at all, which I
consider as very doubtful; but rather than remain here
another winter, I think I shall be tempted to risk my life
in the boat. We shall not be able to do anything more
until spring tides again. The barometer has been very
low all the week-lowest on Friday, 28.65: during the
hurricane it rose or fell as the wind lulled or increased
in violence, and is now 29.40; steadily rising. Thermo-
meter 38°.
Sunday, August 14, 1864.-Since last Sunday we have
had what we call very fine weather-that is to say, we have
had no gales; but otherwise the weather has been very
variable, with frequent showers of rain and snow. Atmos-
phere alternately hazy, foggy, or clear, aud the sun peeping
through the clouds once or twice a day, or, perhaps, not
more than half-a-dozen times during the whole week; with
light airs, generally from the westward, but more frequently
calm. This is what we are obliged to call fine weather in
Looking out for a Sail.
53
this part of the world. It will be a glorious change if
ever we get back to the land where the sun shines every
day; and it is to be hoped we shall, and that before very
long now. I don't know how it is, but for the last few
days I have felt unaccountably fidgety and uneasy, as if I
were every moment expecting some extraordinary occur-
rence.
Yesterday I got to where I could see well down the
harbour, and sat on a rock all day, expecting to see a vessel
coming in. This morning I walked all about the beach,
expecting the same thing; still I have no right to expect
such an event for at least two months to come. We have
not been able, on account of the neap tides, to do anything
at the Grafton' last week; but in the middle of the
incoming week we shall have the full moon springs, when
I hope we shall be able to get her a little higher on the
beach.
On Tuesday morning we went in the boat, about four
o'clock, to go seal hunting. We were unsuccessful at the
first place where we had expected to find them, and took a
turn farther up the bay to try and get some mussels or
widgeons; and luckily, about eleven o'clock, we found three
seals on shore, and killed them. Two were cows in calf,
the other this year's calf. These are the only seals we
have seen on shore in the daytime for a very long while,
but as the weather gets milder no doubt they will come up
to sun themselves. On this day there were also great
numbers in the water, and we saw our old friend, Royal
Tom,' whom we have not seen for a long time. It is to be
hoped they will return here again towards calving-time.
First part of the week the barometer was high, 30-30.
Since Wednesday it has been down to 29-40, and is now
rising, 29.65; thermometer about 40° at noon.
(
Sunday, August 21, 1864.-During the greater part of
the past week the weather has been very fine. On
Monday the wind was light from south-west, with light
scattered clouds and clear atmosphere. This was a truly
54
Heavy Snow-fall.
fine day. On Tuesday the barometer fell to 28-65,
although the wind was at south, and very light. On
Wednesday, at 9 A.M., the wind shifted suddenly to south-
east, and increased to a hard gale (the only south-east
gale we have had since we came here), with sleet and
much snow, and lasted 18 hours. The snow lies yet
thick on the ground. This was the heaviest snow-fall
we have had during the winter. When the gale was at
its height the barometer began to rise rapidly, and when
it died away the wind hauled to north-east. Barometer
30-2, where it has remained up to the present time, with
fine and generally clear weather, and frost during the
night. Whenever we had frost it has been with light
north-east winds, and this (or any easterly winds) never
occurs excepting at or about the full of the moon.
All the week we have been working tide-time, night and
day, at the wreck, and a precious miserable job we have
had; for we were obliged to be up to our middle in water
all the time nearly, with the thermometer from 2° to 5°below
freezing, which was anything but comfortable. But I was
determined to try what could be done towards getting her
a little higher up on the beach. The men worked with
great spirit and energy, fully expecting that we would be
able to get her up and repair her, so that, in case no aid
comes for us, we could make her carry us to New Zealand.
However, the result has proved contrary to their expecta-
tions, though precisely in accordance with my own.
had given them too much encouragement to hope, which
was perhaps wrong; for they have been very much dis-
appointed since yesterday, when we had fairly proved that
it was out of our power to do anything with her, except it
be to break her up, and, as a last resource, try and make
something out of her remains that will take us away from
here, if it only be to drown at sea. After getting all the
ballast out of her, we tried by pumping and baling to
keep the water down, but found it impossible. We then,
with considerable difficulty, got her thrown over on the
I
Failure to Repair the Schooner.
55
other bilge, and found a number of holes in her, some
of her timbers broken, and the main wheel gone from the
stern to about the main rigging. This was done when
we first struck. The holes have no doubt been chafed
through since. We threw her back on her sore side
again. Nothing more can be done. Barometer falling,
29.90. Thermometer, noon, 36°; midnight, 24°.
Sunday, August 28, 1864.-All last week the weather
has been very fine, with easterly or southerly winds.
On Friday it blew a strong gale from the south, which
lasted 24 hours, but the weather was dry and fine,
although cloudy. On the whole the weather has been
much better during the winter than it was during the
latter part of last summer. Indeed, from the 1st of
April to the present time, we have only had one very
severe gale, which was on the 6th and 7th of this
month; whereas, from the 1st of January till the 1st of
April, on an average, we had one fine day out of seven.
So that it may be concluded that the weather during
the winter months is more moderate, with more easterly
winds, but unfortunately more frequent and denser fogs.
than during the summer months-at least the latter
part of the summer, which is as far as my experience
and observation go. I hope and trust it will not be
extended throughout the whole year. I do not expect
a vessel here until the middle of October, and I don't
think that my anxiety after that time can surpass what
it is at present for that time to arrive. I have com-
menced clearing away a place where I intend to keep
the look-out, and Mr. Raynal and I purpose going and
taking up our quarters there on the first day of October.
I am glad to find that the seals are becoming as
numerous as ever, if not more So. On Wednesday
morning we went out early, with the boat, to look for
some fresh meat, and at the peep of day we got four
young ones, and we
saw upwards of 50 within a dis-
tance of half a mile. The shores appeared to be literally
56
Seals Appear in Large Numbers.
crowded with them. Had we wanted to kill seals, I
have no doubt but we might have killed a hundred in this
short distance, and more elsewhere had we wanted them.
And now, as my book is full, I shall continue my journal
page 138 in another book. The barometer has been about
29.50 all the week, and is now rising, 29.80. Thermometer
at noon 40°,
:1
Reflections.
57
CHAPTER VI.
SCARCITY OF FOOD.
FOOD.-TENACITY OF LIFE IN SEALS.-FURTHER
EXPLORATIONS IN THE ISLAND.-RESOLVE TO BUILD A VESSEL.
"Sarah's Bosom."* Sunday, September 4, 1864.-It is
now eight months since I had the misfortune to be cast
away on this miserable island. And how tardily they have
passed, and what anguish of mind I have suffered, would
be impossible for me to describe, or any one else to
imagine, unless they have been similarly situated; and how
much longer it will last God only knows. Surely some
friends (if we have any) in Sydney will bestir themselves,
and have us looked after by some means or other; and if
they exert themselves a little, and go about it properly, I
have no doubt but that the Government will take the
matter in hand. But as the time approaches nearer when
I may reasonably expect a vessel, I am getting daily
more uneasy and dubious about it.
I take so many
conflicting views of the matter, that sometimes my mind
is almost (and I am not sure if not quite) wrought up to a
state of frenzy.
I have employed myself all the week in working at our
new place, and I am going to much more trouble than is
absolutely necessary, so as to divert my mind as much as
possible from melancholy thoughts and forebodings. To
judge by the pains I am taking with it, any one would
suppose that we intended to pass the remainder of our
days here, which may be the case; but if life and health
are spared me, I shall not remain here another twelve
* As already pointed out, this is an error. It should be 'Carnley's
Harbour.'-ED.
58
Seal-skin Shoes.
months, if I go to sea in a boat and drown like a rat-
which would be the most probable result-which mode of
getting out of this world could not be termed suicide ;
although by those who are aware of the risk in so doing it
might be considered systematic self-destruction, which I
hope I shall not have occasion to adopt. If we had any
carpenters' tools we would soon knock up something that
would carry us to New Zealand, out of the wreck of the
Grafton,' if it was only a scow. Mr. Raynal has been shoe-
making for the last fortnight; he has made a pair for him-
self and a pair for me, and, considering the material he had
to work with (seal-skin uppers, and old boots picked to
pieces for soles), and having had no previous experience,
he has made a surprisingly good job of them. The seal-
skin is too thin for mocassins: we wore out a pair in five
days or a week. The men make wooden clogs, but they
are very dangerous amongst the stones on the beach. The
weather continues fine; we have had the wind high, and
moderate, from the south, or the eastward, throughout the
week; atmosphere moderately clear. Barometer has been
down to 29.50, but is now rising, 29.90; thermometer from
40° to 50° at noon each day.
Sunday, September 11, 1864.-We have had quite a
change in the weather since last Sunday. On Monday a
gale came on from the north-west, and it has continued to
blow very hard ever since, with heavy squalls and showers,
sometimes hail and snow. On Thursday morning the
ground was covered with snow, but it did not lie very
long, for there has been a great deal of rain falling also.
The wind hauled to the south, and veered again to the
north-west, from which quarter it is now blowing a very
heavy gale, with constant heavy rain, and very dark,
gloomy weather. It has been a very miserable week, and
there is no prospect of any change for the better. I have
no doubt but we shall get bad weather in earnest this
month with the equinox. When the gale commenced the
barometer was at 28.75. It has since been at 29.25, and
Scarcity of Food.
5
59
as high as 29.80, constantly rising and falling, and is now
at 29.50; thermometer 44°. I have done nothing at the
new place this week; the weather has been so bad that
it was not fit to go outside the door if it could be avoided:
but we were obliged to go out on Monday and yesterday to
look for meat, and, as we could not launch the boat, we had
to carry it a distance of about three and a half miles. We
killed a cow seal each day; they were both in calf.
Sunday, September 18, 1864.-The weather has been
very stormy, with almost constant hail, snow, or rain
throughout the past week, and we are again hard up for
something to eat. We have been obliged to turn out in
the midst of the bad weather to look for grub, and if turn-
ing out was all it would not be worth mentioning; but I
am sorry to say that it is not to be had so easily as it used
to be. We were out in the boat three times in succession
-Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, from four o'clock in
the morning to six in the evening; and, by dint of great
industry and perseverance, we managed to get as much
widgeon, fish, and mussels as kept us going, and a small
surplus, which will barely last us to-day. To-morrow we
must boat it again, whatever the weather may be; and it is
not at present very promising. The barometer is very low,
with every appearance of a heavy S.W. gale.
About three weeks ago I had every reason to hope, from
the great number of seals that were in the harbour just
then, that we were going to have abundance of seal meat,
which is our principal food; but I find myself sadly disap-
pointed, and I fear very much that they were only muster-
ing at that time for a final leave-taking, for at the present
time there is not a seal in this part of the harbour, and
whether they have left the harbour entirely or not I cannot
say; but as soon as the weather subsides a little we intend
to go up
the northern arm and see if we can get any there.
They were numerous up there on the occasion of our visiting
that part of the harbour. It is twelve miles from here;
therefore it is quite an undertaking for us to go there..
60
Foraging Expedition.
The present state of the weather has prevented us doing
anything at the new place. If provisions were so plentiful
as not to occupy all our time in looking after them, we
might be able to do something towards it. Certainly we
have dried meat and widgeon, but it is almost impossible
to eat it. If we are compelled to have resource to it, and
I find I can subsist upon roots, I shall certainly do so in
preference to eating it. I must do the men justice in this,
that, with all our hard fare, which is no doubt much harder
than anyone that reads this journal might be inclined to
imagine, they have not as yet made any open complaints.
But since we have been so very much pinched, they have
had to be pulling about in the boat, in the storm and wet,
from morning till night, and then scarcely getting enough
to subsist upon.
Wednesday, September 21, 1864.-On Monday morning
the weather appeared promising, although the glass was
very low, giving indications to the contrary; but, as forage
is getting so scarce, I thought we would venture to start
for the western arm. We had the wind from the S.W.,
which was ahead in going, and detained us so much that
by nightfall we had only got a short distance into it-about
eight miles from the house. Here we spied a seal on shore,
and as yet we had only seen one in the water, and it was
an old black bull. We landed and killed the one on shore
we also found another, which led us a chase until dark,
and we were near losing her. They were both old ones.
We now made up our minds to camp here for the night,
and in the morning go farther up, and see if we could find
any more; but it came on to blow, with hail and rain, and
the night was bitter cold, so about midnight we made up
our minds to return home. Although it was blowing a
hard gale, it was favourable, so we started, and arrived
at home about two o'clock on Tuesday morning, wet
through, and almost famished with cold. Seeing the
black seal gives me hope that the others have not left the
harbour altogether, but are at the head of the western
arm;
Miserable Travelling.
61
for we supposed that the black ones had left entirely,
as we have not seen any for a very long time. Tenth
anniversary of my marriage.
Sunday, September 25, 1864.—From the commencement
of the gale mentioned on Wednesday, until Friday evening,
it continued to blow very hard from between S.W. and
N.W., accompanied by hail, rain, and snow. There has
been more snow on the ground this week than at any time
during the winter, and it lies thick on the mountains yet;
but it will not lie very long, I suppose, for the sun begins
to feel very warm again. Yesterday and to-day have been
two very fine days, with a light breeze from the southward.
It would have been an excellent opportunity for a vessel
coming here to have made the land and got in, for the
atmosphere has been particularly clear. The island might
have been seen at a great distance. However, I don't
expect anybody here until after the 15th of next month;
then I shall look for some one coming every day, if we are
not starved to death before that time.
across.
cross.
It is evident that the seals have left this part of the
island entirely. We were out in the boat yesterday, but
did not see one. I have often thought I could get across
to the western shore of the island by a valley at the head
of the bay, where I imagine it is not more than three miles
We started in the boat the first thing after our
breakfast, and landed at the place where I intended to
We left the boat, and the three men who were in
her started to go with me; but the travelling was so
horribly bad that when we had got half a mile two of
them turned back, leaving the other man and myself to
pursue our way without them, which we did for about a
mile farther; and I may say we had accomplished this
distance by creeping on our bellies, very seldom getting as
high as our hands and knees. I have described some bad
roads before. This beats description, and it also beats me ;
and this is the first time I have been beaten in getting
through the infernal scrub and swamp. The time which
62
C
Death of Royal Tom.'
we occupied in going and returning this mile and a half
may give some idea of what sort of travelling it was: we
were about seven hours in doing it! I got a severe cold
over it, which was the only reward of my trouble (fatigue
and scratched face and hands excepted). On our return,
I shot three widgeons and two young ducks. There are
ducks here, as I think I have before remarked; but they are
very few, and they are so shy that we cannot get within
gunshot of them. What we have got have been young
ones, before they could fly. The widgeons, or what we call
widgeons, are getting scarce also. We must go up the
western arm again to-morrow, weather permitting. Baro-
meter, 29.85; thermometer, 38°.
Sunday, October 2, 1864.-The long looked for month
has arrived at last (God send relief before it passes). It
is nine months to-day since the wreck. I shall make no
comments how they have passed, as they could only have
a tendency to rekindle the internal fire which has almost
consumed me, and which fresh hopes have in some measure
quenched; still, the dying embers require but a slight blast
to make the flame burst forth afresh.
On Monday morning last the weather appeared promis-
ing, although the barometer was at a doubtful altitude.
We started at an early hour for the western arm, to look
for fresh meat, and fortunately for us we had to go no
farther than its entrance. On the small island there we
found and killed four seals, and amongst them was our old
acquaintance, 'Royal Tom.' Had meat not been so scarce
we would not have killed him. Another was a great calf
about four months old. We killed a cow in milk the Mon-
day previous, which, without a doubt, was its mother.
This is the only instance that we yet found of them having
calves later than January. December, I should say, is the
month in which they generally calve. I am inclined to
think that these seals, with the two we killed the week before,
have composed a family, which, perhaps on account of the
young calf, have not taken their departure with the rest, for
Heavy Rain and Gales.
63
I fear much that they have all gone; for we have not seen a
sign of any others. However, it is to be hoped that these
will last till we are taken away, which event I fully expect
between the 15th and 20th of the present month; for if
anybody has exerted themselves at all on our behalf, I have
no doubt that the Government would despatch a vessel to
look for us not later than the 1st of this month, after the
equinoctial gales have subsided. Had we not been so
fortunate on Monday, in falling in with seals so soon as we
did, it would have been impossible for us to return yet, for
it has blown a gale of wind ever since, which would have
prevented our doing so.
At 9 A.M. on Monday a breeze came from the N.E., which
soon increased to a gale. This is only the second N.E. wind
we have had at any other time but the full of the moon,
and both those have happened at about the last quarter,
but did not stand long before it hauled, by north to the
westward, and has continued to blow a very heavy gale
from between S.W. and W.N.W., and is now at N.W.,
with the barometer 30.20. We have had another instance
of a low barometer preceding a S.W. gale, but this is the
first time I have known it to be above 30 inches with a
N.W. wind. A great deal of rain has fallen throughout
this week also: on one occasion it rained harder for about
two hours than ever I remember seeing it do anywhere,
except it may have been one of those heavy showers we
get on the equator sometimes. The thermometer has been
low, 36° to 40°.
Sunday, October 9, 1864.-The past week, up till Friday,
was very fine. Light north-west wind, and, although the
sky is generally clouded, the atmosphere was particularly
clear. This would have afforded an excellent opportunity
for a ship to have made the island and got in here. It is
to be hoped that we shall have moderate weather for a time
now, for goodness knows it was bad enough last month to
suffice for some time; but I suppose we must take it as it
comes, without grumbling. However, the barometer is now
64
Anticipations of Release
up to 30·20; we shall have good weather for a few days, no
doubt. In that time there is no telling what may trans-
pire; perhaps we may get away before any more bad
weather comes.
At midnight on Thursday it commenced
to rain, and continued without ceasing until midnight on
Friday. At 4 P.M. on Friday the wind shifted instan-
taneously from N.W. to S.E., and has remained at S.E.
and S.S.E. ever since; moderate breeze and passing
clouds, with frequent showers of snow. The tips of the
hills are once more white, and it is very cold: the ther-
mometer is down to 38°. We planted some pumpkin
seed at the beginning of the week, but I am afraid it will
stand a poor chance. We tried some last summer; it did
come up, and that was all. Corn would do very well here,
I have no doubt also potatoes: we have got two or three
which we intend to try.
Sunday, October 16, 1864.-Another week of fine weather
has passed, and here we remain yet. Surely not more than
another week at the outside will pass before something
arrives to take us away; that is, if anyone has thought
anything about us, or done anything towards having us
looked after. But I am afraid that those who should have
felt interested in our fate are either dead or sleeping, or
else something would have been despatched to look for us
at the latest on the first of the present month, in which
case, had they come here direct, as I instructed Mr.
they should do if anything happened that we did not
return in reasonable time, they should have been here
before now: and I think I made him understand clearly
that an accident was much more likely to happen in har-
bour than at sea; so thus their consciences will scarcely
allow time to let the matter rest without discovering by
some means what has become of us. Besides, they don't
know but their own personal interest is at stake, which
in itself would stir them to action; still I do not for a
moment doubt they will be doing something towards
finding us. I think I may question their energy, for had
Hopes of Government Aid.
65
they applied to Government as soon as they gave us up-
which they must have done, at the outside, five months.
after we sailed-I feel convinced that we should have
had relief before this time; for the New South Wales
Government is not slow to move in such matters. In
this humane age, the probability of saving the lives of
five men becomes a matter of immediate and energetic
public interest and action; therefore I am inclined to
think that our friends, who should at least have given us
an opportunity of condescending to receive succour from
public benevolence (we are not too high-minded now to
accept of assistance from any quarter, neither would any-
one else be so if they had lived as we have done for nine
or ten months), have been, to say the least, wanting in
energy; but, for fear of doing them an injustice, I will say
no more on the subject at present.
sun.
As I have already remarked, the weather during the
past week has been fine. On Monday morning the snow
lay thick on the ground, but was soon dispersed by the
In the afternoon of that day we had a strong breeze
from the westward, which lasted till midnight. Since that
time the wind has been light from the southward and
south-east, with scattered clouds, but mist almost con-
stantly enveloping the high parts of the land. To-day the
wind is moderate from N.N.E., with passing clouds and
clear atmosphere. The barometer has been steadily rising
all the week, from 29.50 on Monday to 29.90 to-day;
thermometer at 53°, which is below temperate; but we
feel it very warm. The weather has been so fine, and I
am so sick of remaining here, that Raynal and I proposed
taking the boat to try to reach New Zealand in her; but
the men at once opposed this project, as they did not wish
to be left alone here; and as I do not wish to risk unne-
cessarily anyone's life but my own, and perhaps relief may
not after all be so far off, I have for the present abandoned
the idea. Perhaps I am unreasonably uneasy, but it is
impossible for me to be otherwise.
F
66
Slaughter of a Black Seal.
On Monday morning last we started at daybreak for the
western arm, to look for seal. On Masked Island we
saw one tiger seal, but we could not get him; and he was
the only one we could see until we arrived at the head of
the arm.
About noon we landed, made a fire, and got
something to eat, and then proceeded on our way; but
immediately after noon we got a strong breeze from the
westward, which was dead a-head. We are very unfor-
tunate, for every time we go out in the boat a gale of
wind comes on before we get back. However, by about
4 o'clock in the afternoon we had managed to get nearly
to the head of the arm, and we saw a large black seal
lying amongst the rocks close to the water-so close that
it would have been impossible for us to have got him if
we had landed to attack him: and the meat is getting so
scarce we were glad of only half an opportunity of getting
him, and only afraid that he would escape and we should
not be able to get another one. He was not asleep, but
sat up and looked at us; and we lay on our oars and
looked at him, not daring to move for fear he would take
the water—and a musket ball seldom has any effect on
them when they are so near the water, further than it
may confuse them, when you must be ready to attack them.
at once with clubs; and we were as yet too far from him
to shoot. We made a few bold strokes towards him; he
did not move until the boat was near touching the beach;
then he started: but Mr. Raynal let drive at him with the
gun and staggered him, knocking out three of his canine
teeth, the ball going up into his head: but this did not kill
him. In an instant we were on him with our clubs, which
had the effect of quieting him for a short time; but,
strange to say, the very time occupied in pounding him to
make sure of killing him gave him time to revive again,
and he nearly escaped into the water before we got his
throat cut. He was a very large seal, one of his teeth
measuring 33 inches long, 1 inches in circumference at
Tenacity of Life displayed by Seals.
67
the gum, and 5 inches at the base. Mr. Raynal has some
larger than this.
It is a surprising fact that the nearer to the water a
seal is killed, the more tenacious it is of life. I have
actually seen one of these black bull seals, with two bullets
in him, his head split open with an axe, and his brains
hanging out, dragging the men along the beach, who were
trying to keep him out of the water by hanging on to his
hind flappers; and he would have got away had not another
man at that moment come to their assistance, and chopped
off his head entirely with the axe. But when they are at
any great distance from the water a slight tap on the nose
will stun them, and if struck immediately they will pro-
bably die without the slightest muscular motion. But in
striking these fellows it is necessary to make sure of your
blow, for if you miss they will have hold of you, and they
would undoubtedly break the limb they got hold of. None.
of us as yet have got bit, thank God; but they have on one
or two occasions taken the club out of some of our hands.
After getting our seal into the boat, we went as far as the
western head or entrance, where we got another black
seal, and saw there three others, which we could have
killed, but the two we had already got were a load for the
boat. We also saw about half-a-dozen in the water, all
black seals. Not very long ago we thought it would be
impossible to eat this kind of seal; and indeed they are
not by any means fit for food, for the strong smell of the
meat is enough not only to disgust but to stifle a person.
But what are starving men to do? and we may consider
ourselves such. Hunger is certainly a good sauce. We
were all in a state of excitement over the seal that was
shot, for fear we should lose him and not be able to get
any more.
After taking a good view of the entrance, we returned to
the boat and set sail homeward (as I must call my prison-
house), with a strong fair wind, as much as we could carry
the whole sail to, and were not more than two hours and a
F 2
68
The Western Arm of the Harbour.
half in running back, and arrived about an hour after dark.
The distance is fourteen or fifteen miles. I may here give
a description of the western arm of this extensive harbour,
as I think I have not as yet done so. About seven miles
from the eastern entrance heads is Musgrave's Peninsula,
which lies nearly at right angles with the entrance and
Flagstaff Point. Its S.E. entrance bears from between the
heads W.-half-S. (Here our signal board is erected).
The elbow, which turns off from the direct line to the
heads, and into the western arm, is called Point No. 1, and
bears from Flagstaff Point S.E. by E.-half-E. From Point
No. 1 the arm runs, in a S.W. by W. direction, a distance
of about five miles, to Point No. 2, where it turns its direc-
tion to W.N.W., about two miles to Point No. 3, and fol-
lows nearly the same bearing from this point to a point
along the northern shore to its head, a distance of about
three and a quarter miles farther. From Point No. 3 to
Break Sea Point (which is on the east side of the passage
out), W.-half-N., about one and three quarter miles.
On the eastern side of the passage (from the sea) are
standing two isolated rocks, not less than 200 feet high,
which from seaward would appear to be one, and which
I am of opinion are synonymous with the rock placed on
the general chart immediately off the South Cape, and
named Adam's Rock. This entrance, I am fully persuaded,
is precisely on the South Cape, although I am not at pre-
sent able to assert such as a positive fact. The passage
runs N.N.E. and S.S.W., about one and three quarter miles
in length, and one mile wide at its entrance, narrowing
very regularly and gradually towards its head, where its
width is not more than half a mile, which space is almost
entirely occupied by an island, which is situated almost ex-
actly in the centre, leaving on each side a very narrow but
deep channel. The one on the east side appears to be the
best; it is about 100 feet wide and 300 feet long.
On the inside, immediately off Break Sea Point, stands
a rock which only shows at low water, unless occasionally
Monumental Island.—Masked Island. 69
when the sea breaks on it. A considerable portion of the
point is covered at high water also. The island, which
from its singular appearance I have named 'Monumental
Island,' is a peculiar feature of, and would be an unmis-
takeable finger-post to, this entrance. The eastern head,
for a distance of nearly two miles, is a perpendicular wall,
averaging not less than 120 feet high. The western head
rises to a height of not less than 400 feet, and is not quite
so perpendicular as the eastern one, but shows an unbroken
face. This passage, if properly examined, might possibly
be available to a vessel entering or leaving this harbour;
but, in my opinion, it would be in no wise recommend-
able.
Masked Island bears from Flagstaff Point S.W. by S.,
and could not, by a vessel bigger than a long boat beating
or sailing in, be discovered; indeed, I passed it once in a
boat without discovering the fact. There is a snug nook
on its south side, where a vessel might very easily be
secured, and would be well sheltered from both wind and
sea. I would recommend laying down two anchors ahead,
in about 12 fathoms (not less), and hauling her stern
as far in to the N.W. as the depth of water will allow
(there is eight feet rise and fall; high water on full and
change days at 12 hours), then moor with four good
hawsers to the trees, or the rocks if preferable. I would
prefer this place to any other in the harbour. There is a
drift to the S.E. of about one mile and a half, but the wind
from that quarter is not felt; the very high land off the
south island entirely breaks it off, and when it is blowing
a heavy gale from any other quarter there is scarcely a
breath of wind in this quarter. From this island the
western arm has on its north side six bays, from half a mile
to a mile deep, and at the head of each is a small stream
of water. The shores are generally rocky, and clad with
stunted crooked timber, similar to the shores of the north
arm where we live, running to some distance up the moun-
tains, which rise abruptly from the water to the height of
70 A Poor Day's Fishing.—Starvation in Prospect.
1,000 to 1,500 feet. The south island attains in one place
a height of not less than 2,000 feet. I have not visited the
south side of this arm, excepting at its head. It carries an
average width of about one and a half miles. The south side
has a number of small bays, but nothing near so deep as
those on the north side. I have sounded along the north
side, but nowhere did I get bottom with a 20 feet line at
90 yards from the shore.
On Thursday we were out in the boat all day. We went
down to Flagstaff Point and re-painted our signal board,
and spent the remainder of the day in fishing, and getting
mussels and widgeons. We got three small fish, a basket
of mussels, and a dozen widgeons. We saw two small seals
in the water. It is evident they have left the harbour
altogether. God only knows what is to become of us; we
shall starve outright if we remain here much longer. I
expect the few black seals that remain will be off now also.
Sunday, October 23, 1864.-Week passes on after week.
Another one has passed like its predecessors, and thus I
Each
suppose it will continue till time shall be no more.
day passes, and we know not what the next may bring
forth, or whether we shall see it or not; and probably one
of the best gifts of Providence is the veil that conceals
futurity. My eyes are positively weak and bloodshot with
anxious looking. Since last Sunday I have scarcely slept,
for night and day I have been constantly on the worry,
expecting that a vessel would come in. The weather was
moderate during the first and middle of the week, but
since noon of Friday it has been blowing a hard gale from
S.W. and W.N.W., with much rain and dirty thick weather,
and at the present time has not the slightest appearance of
subsiding; so that if a vessel was now in the vicinity of
the island it would be impossible for her to get in. It
would be impossible for me to convey to any one an idea
if
of my present state of mind. I am anything but mad;
that would come it would very likely afford relief in for-
getfulness. I was mad once, though, and no doubt people
A Fog on the Mountains.
71
are made accountable for their actions in that sort of mad-
ness; and perhaps I am suffering the just punishment of
my folly.
*
*
*
*
*
*
I have still one consolation remaining, in those beautiful
words of Thomas Moore:
Let fate do her worst, there are relics of joy,
Bright gems of the past which she cannot destroy ;
That come in the night-time of sorrow and care,
And bring back the features that joy used to wear.
Long, long may my heart with such mem'ries be filled,
Like a vase in which roses have once been distilled.
You may break, you may ruin the vase as you will,
But the scent of the roses will hang round it still.
On Tuesday morning, Raynal and I set off at five o'clock
in the morning to go on to the mountains to the northward
and have a look round. The night had been beautifully
fine and clear, and when we started there was not a cloud
in the sky, and scarcely a breath of wind. A finer morning
could not have been, but before we arrived at the top
clouds rose from the westward and passed rapidly over,
till the whole sky was covered, and a mist began to settle
on the land, which soon became a dense fog, with heavy
rain. It continued for several hours, and we were very
glad that we had not got to the top, and made our way
back again as quickly as possible. It would be exceedingly
dangerous to be caught on the top of these mountains in
one of those thick fogs; for sometimes you cannot see two
yards before you, so that you would be obliged to stop
until it cleared away, and in so doing you might perish
with cold and wet. The alternative would be almost a
certainty of falling headlong down one of these immense
precipices, which I have mentioned before, 1,200 to 1,500
feet deep.
On Wednesday morning, about the same time, we made
another attempt, and succeeded. The day was dry and
clear, but there was a haze about the horizon which pre-
72
Further Description of the Islands.
vented us from seeing so far as we otherwise could have
done. However, I suppose we had a clear view all round
of not less than fifty miles; but no sail blessed our longing
eyes. We went much farther to the northward than we
have been before, and nearly over to the western shore,
and saw several detached conical shaped rocks, and small
islands scattered about close to the shores, which are high
and rugged, with here and there small indentations or
bights. But I find that this western coast line does not
run, as I have previously noted, N.N.E. and S.S.W.,
but nearly north and south. It has, however, an elbow
about its centre, which lies somewhat to the westward
of its north and south extremities; and I am now in-
clined to think that the passage out from the western
arm is a little to the northward of the South Cape. In
other respects the description I have given before is correct,
only that the mountains are higher than I at the time sup-
posed them to be. I have since measured some of them,
which enables me to judge more correctly the height of
the others.
The Giant's Tomb is about 1,800 feet high, and the
highest part of the land is on the south island, and is
about 2,000 feet high. I also find that some of the chasms
in the north-east angle of the land penetrate nearly (per-
haps some of them go entirely) through the island, and
are very narrow, with the mountains rising perpendicularly
from the water to the height of 1,200 feet. Indeed some
of them are so narrow that it appears as if a person could
jump across at the top. The great height and extraordinary
steepness makes the distance appear much less than it
actually is. It would be difficult for me to judge how
high they are; however, they vary very much in every fea-
ture. I hope no vessel will go humbugging about these
places looking for us. The reefs before mentioned, lying
to the eastward of the north end of the group, I may here
mention again, for they are undoubtedly exceedingly dan-
gerous, and should be carefully avoided. On this occasion
Deplorable State of our Garments.
73
there was a long line of breakers (with several dry places)
running in an easterly direction, and extending (as I first
I have now
stated) not less than ten miles from the land.
seen them from several different bearings, and I conclude
that their distance from the land is not less than ten miles.
I should also have stated that there are a number of sunken
rocks, which do not always show, lying about and across
the mouths of the bights and chasms on the north-east
angles. All this part should be very carefully approached.
As we returned we set fire to the grass on the homeward
side of the mountains; it was very dry, and burnt well all
night, and would have been a good beacon for any one
near the island.
As soon as the weather moderates we must go and see
if we can get another seal or two, if they are only black
ones. I am trying to tan the largest of the last two skins
we got. Whether I shall succeed or not I cannot tell; but
we have found a bark which I have great hopes of, and, if
it answers, the skin of this fellow would make excellent
sole leather. We are not yet reduced to wearing seal-skin
clothes entirely, but those which we do wear look most
deplorable, although they are neither ragged nor dirty;
but they are patched to such a degree that in scarcely any
piece of garment that any of us wear is there a particle of
the original visible. Joseph's coat would scarcely be a
circumstance of comparison with some of ours. Old
canvas, old gunny bags, anything we can get hold of, goes
in for patches, and we use canvas ravellings for thread,
and sew everything with a sail-needle. We are certainly
a motley group. I have cut up all my bed sheets for
patching with, and I expect I shall have to use canvas,
gunny bags, &c., also shortly. Raynal and I keep on
doing a little at our new-place, but the greater part of
our time, when we are down there, is occupied in straining
our eyes in looking down the harbour. The barometer has
been all the week between 29.10 and 29.90, and is now
29.52. Thermometer 38°.
•
74
Thoughts of Building a Vessel.
Sunday, October 30, 1864.-Here we are yet, closely
clasped in Sarah's Bosom. I don't think I shall have any
reason to dread purgatory after this; I trust that my pur-
gations are now being performed, and are almost com-
pleted, for things appear to be drawing rapidly towards a
crisis. The proverb says, when things are at their worst
they must mend; but how bad that worst may be is be-
yond the reach of human knowledge. I must now forego
about the last bit of comfort that was left me, which is
writing a little on Sundays; for if I continue to do so, my
only remaining book of blank paper will be filled up. I
may yet have something of moment to insert, for which
purpose I must reserve the few remaining pages. So, my
dear old book, I must bid you good bye, for God only
knows how long. If nothing comes after us, we shall
commence at the New Year to pull the 'Grafton' to pieces,
and try what we can do with her bones. It is an under-
taking the success of which I am exceedingly doubtful of.
If we had had tools I should have tried what we could
have done long before this time; but who expected that
we should be left here unlooked for like so many dogs!
*
*
*
*
*
*
It is folly for me to get into this vein. Let it pass.
Our stock of tools is, as I think I have said before, an
American axe, an adze, a hammer, and a gimbleta mighty
assortment to take our ship to pieces, and build another
one with, if even there was any carpenter or blacksmith
among us, which there is not. The idea is almost farcical;
but, as I have said before, I shall go to sea on a log in
preference to dragging out a miserable existence here: be-
sides, I am not sure that we shall be able to do that much
longer. We have had very bad weather all the week,
with the exception of Wednesday. It was constant heavy
rain until Friday evening, and blowing a gale from the
westward. On Friday evening it shifted suddenly to
S.S.W., and the rain turned into snow, which fell heavily,
and now lies thick on the ground; and the weather is dark,
Two Tiger Seals killed.
75
gloomy, cold, and miserable. On Wednesday, although a
dirty wet day, and blowing too hard to take the boat, we
were obliged to turn out, almost without breakfast, to look
for something to eat. Four of us went out together,
taking the gun, expecting to get a few widgeons; and I
returned very ill, and I have not been right since. Until
the evening we were very unfortunate. We travelled
about ten miles without getting anything. Here there
were a few mussels; but it was high water, and we could
not get to them, so we set to work fishing, but only got
two very small ones, about the size of sprats. About
three o'clock in the afternoon, by wading into the water,
we were able to get a few mussels, which we at once
roasted and ate, but afterwards we got as many as we
could eat. I think I ate too many, and this, with walking
and fasting so long, very likely made me ill. This is
picnicing in reality. God protect us from having much of
it to do! but He is still good to us.
On our way home we fell in with and killed two tiger
seals, without which I think we should positively have
starved, for the weather has been such as to prevent us
from getting any since. On Tuesday morning we launched
the boat, although it was blowing a heavy gale, with
heavy rain, and with a fair wind went to the place where
the seals were. We had taken a small piece of one home
with us on the previous evening, to make our supper and
breakfast with. We got our seals into the boat very com-
fortably, but with four oars we were five hours pulling
back home (a distance of two miles and a half!) where we
arrived drenched to the skin, and I have had a severe cold
ever since. The barometer has been from 29 inches to
29.50; thermometer, 34°.
November 28.-Strong gale from N.W.; hail, sleet, and
snow falling. Barometer, 29-35.
December 1.-Ice on the mountains.
6th.-Very low
tide and easterly wind. 8th.-Frost; thermometer at 32°.
19.-Thermometer 56°; 1° above temperate. 21st.-N.E.
76
Fine Weather.
gale for 12 hours; barometer 29.90. Throughout the
month of December the weather has been exceedingly
fine. A ship could come in here at any time during the
whole month, and from last Christmas till to-day (New
Year's Day) the weather has been as fine as ever I saw it
anywhere. Barometer about 30 inches, and thermometer
60° at noon.
\
Hopes of Escape to New Zealand.
CHAPTER VII.
77
SHIP-BUILDING
COMMENCED.-FAILURE
OF THE
SAME. THE
DISCOVERY OF
BOAT PLACED UNDER REPAIR. SAND-FLIES.
A CAVERN.-WINTER AGAIN.
Sunday, January 1, 1865.-A whole year has now
passed since I first anchored in this place, and in all
probability another will at least pass before I get away,
unless by chance of some sealers coming in the meantime.
I have got quite grey-headed. My hair is now all coming
out. Whether I shall get it again or remain bald-headed
remains to be seen. I have also, since I last wrote, been
very much troubled with boils, a number of which have
been about my face; but these are going away again. The
men continue quite healthy, which is well, for I have not
even a dose of salts to give them or take myself, whatever
happens. The only medicine we have is plenty of exercise,
which is not only conducive to health, but dispels gloom,
and makes people really cheerful. I take plenty of this
medicine myself, and encourage it in others as much as I
possibly can; and I am happy to say the result has proved
so far satisfactory. I manage to keep the men almost
constantly employed at something which is at the same
time useful and amusing. We shall shortly commence to
pull the schooner to pieces, and I have no doubt but we
shall feel truly interested in the work of trying to get away.
I hope we may succeed. It is quite true that by energetic
perseverance men may perform wonders, and our success
would by no means constitute a miracle. The men are all
very sanguine, and I have no doubt but we shall be able
to make something that will carry us to New Zealand. We
are not quite ready to commence yet. Raynal and I have
78
Return of the Bull Seals.
not finished our new place, where we intend to live, and
this house must be thatched, so as to preserve the sails,
which, up to the present time, have covered it.
Providence continues good to us, for since I last wrote,
when the prospect of getting food looked so gloomy, the
bull seals have returned. They came at the beginning of
November. They appear to pay annual visits to the cows,
but unfortunately there are not more than three or four in
the harbour. They have not yet had their calves. The
bulls remain, however, and we are able to get one almost
at any time; for they are very bold, and will come out of
the water and chase us, in which manner we get them on
shore and kill them; but they are particularly fierce. We
are obliged to be very cautious in attacking them. There
are some exceedingly large ones-quite as large, if not
larger, than the largest we killed at Campbell's Island.
These bulls, wherever they have been-whether about the
roads outside or at other islands-have evidently had
better food, or it has been much more plentiful than they
find it here, for they have fallen away immensely since
they came. I should not have been at all surprised at
their losing fat after coupling time; but that is not yet
come, so I conclude that it is owing to the nature or
quantity of food which they get.
In November some of the birds lay their eggs-the
blackbird; the robin, which is the first; and the green
bird, which is the famous songster; and the seagull. We
thought one day to have a treat, and spent the whole day
in the boat hunting after and getting gulls' eggs. We got
twenty altogether, out of which, when boiled, we got five
good ones; the remainder were all addled. These are all
the eggs we have been able to get. I am sorry to say the
shag, or what we call widgeon, have all deserted the
harbour. Very likely they are gone elsewhere to hatch
their eggs. On the night of the 23rd November we had a
severe gale, accompanied with rain, from north, and it was
one of the heaviest we have had. The barometer fell in
seven hours 1 inch and 14:00, from 29.92 to 28.78. The
Working at the Wreck.
79
heaviest part of the gale was from midnight until 3 A.M.,
when it hauled to N.W. At 9 A.M. it fell instantaneously
calm, and continued so twenty-four hours, with dark,
gloomy weather and showers.
Sunday, February 5, 1865.—Since I last wrote we have
had some very severe weather. We had a rotatory gale,
which continued without cessation from the 10th to the
25th of last month, during which time we were reduced to
the point of starvation. It was impossible to launch the
boat, and, although we traversed the shores as far as we
could every day, we were unable to procure anything to
eat. It rained heavily nearly all the time during the gale.
I never suffered as I do now; it is no use talking about
what I have suffered-God alone knows the extent of that
since I have been here. I shall talk, or rather write, about
something else; but, by-the-by, my hands are so stiff and
swollen with hard work that I can scarcely guide my pen,
for this is the first day's rest I have had for five weeks.
We have commenced in earnest the work of building a
vessel to get away in. This will not prevent me from ob-
serving the Sabbath, but during the time mentioned it has
been impossible to do so. Two Sundays we were out after
grub; the next we were thatching the house; and last
Sunday we were working at the wreck, trying to get her
higher on the beach, to do which, with the means at my
command, I have exhausted my ingenuity without success.
We stripped the lower masts and bowsprit, and cut them
away: took every ounce of ballast out, and disburthened
her of all possible weight, without taking away any of her
upper work, as I did not know what I might have done
with her had I succeeded in moving her. But this can
only be done by lifting her bodily up. I had seventeen
empty casks secured round her bows, but they had not
the slightest impression on her. She is built of very
heavy hard wood, principally greenheart and coppy. She
was built from the wreck of a Spanish man-of-war; but
I am sorry to say they took care not to put any copper
•
80
The Ship-building commenced.
bolts in her: but perhaps there were none in the original
wreck. But they have not been at all sparing with the
iron. She has got any quantity of that about her, which
will be of more service to me than any other part of her,
excepting the plant, which is already full of bolt-holes;
but we must make it answer our purpose. The vessel I
am going to build will be a cutter of about ten tons. We
have got the blocks laid down, and a quantity of timbers
cut. All the frame we shall have to get out of the woods,
excepting the keel, which the 'Grafton's' mainmast will
supply. Mr. Raynal is Vulcan; he has had some little ex-
perience in blacksmithing, which will now be of the greatest
service to us, as we shall have to make nearly all our own
tools. He has got a forge up ready for going to work at,
as soon as we get some charcoal made. We have now a
quantity of it in the ground, undergoing the process of
burning. The schooner had a quantity of old iron in her
bottom for ballast, amongst which we found a block, which
will answer the purpose of an anvil. Mr. Raynal has
undertaken to make a saw out of a piece of sheet iron.
When we found the old sealers' camp on Figure-of-Eight
Island, we found an old saw file, but the teeth were all
rusted off it. This has been carefully reserved ever since,
and Mr. R. ground it smooth on a grinding stone, which
was our principal ballast, and with an old chisel, made out
of an old broken flat file, cut fresh teeth in it; but un-
fortunately, as he was cutting almost the last tooth, he
broke it—the part which goes into the handle—and about
two inches of the file went. I think he can manage to cut
teeth in the saw with it. I am afraid that augers will be
the most difficult tools to make; but, now that the job is
fairly undertaken, I have not the slightest doubt of final
success in some shape or other. Every one works cheer-
fully and well: I sincerely hope nothing will occur to
damp either. We work from six in the morning until six
in the evening.
We have been able to work the whole of the past week,
Success in Tanning Seal-skins.
81
but to-day it is blowing a hard northerly gale, with
constant heavy rain, and threatens to continue. The ba-
rometer is low (28.70), which is the only sign of a change.
We
may expect the gale to haul to the N.W. whenever it
shifts. Weather permitting, and God continues His good-
ness in supplying us with food, which we can manage to
get in moderate weather, we shall get along very well—a
critical position to be placed in, not knowing the moment
all means of subsistence may be withdrawn from us.
Some time ago I mentioned a bark we had found, which
I thought would tan, and I am now glad to say that it
does make an excellent tan. We are now all wearing
shoes of the leather it has made. It is very good leather,
and if allowed to remain long enough in the tan would be
excellent. I am inclined to think that the skin of these
seals (which are the sea-lion), properly tanned, will make
a very superior leather. What we are wearing now was
about four months in tan, and it appears as if it will wear
very well.
This bark is from the hard wood, which I
have said is good for ship timbers and knees.
Almost a year ago I mentioned a small fish, something
like the anchovy, which were found in shoals. These fish
appear to come annually, and are followed by the Aus-
tralian mutton bird, which bird went away from here about
May last. A great many were killed by the cold before
they left; they returned again about the 20th January. I
dare say these birds are eatable, but they are small. We
have not had a chance of getting a shot at them this year,
but we intend to try them when we can get one. We find
that some of the cow seals have had calves, but not all, so
that the latter part of January, and the beginning of
February, is evidently the time for calving, and not
December, as I have thought before. How long the building
of our craft will occupy I am at present unable to judge,
having had no previous experience in ship-building. I must
see how the work progresses before I can form any idea.
Sunday, March 12, 1865.—It is now more than a month
་
82 Failure of the Ship-building Operations.
since I last wrote, during which time we have been busily
employed in our projected work of ship-building, although
I myself have been unable to do anything with my hands,
because for about three weeks I have had one or both of
them in a sling with boils. I am now beginning to get
the use of them again. We have got the keel, stem, and
stern-post of the craft, and a number of timbers ready for
bolting them together; but also here we are stuck fast, and
find ourselves unable to go any farther. Mr. Raynal has
made a saw, chisels, gouges, and sundry other tools. His
ingenuity and dexterity at the forge have indeed surpassed
my expectation, but making augers has proved a hopeless.
failure. Assiduously he wrought at one for three days,
and it was not until there was not a shade of hope left
that he gave it up; and if he had had the material to make
them out of I feel confident he would have succeeded.
The only steel he had was two picks and some shovel
blades, which tools we took from Sydney, in hope of
having some mining operations to perform at Campbell's
Island. Yes! that is the rock I split upon.
But to my subject. It was truly deplorable to view the
faces of all as we stood around him, when he decidedly
pronounced it impossible for him to make one: they all
appeared, and I have no doubt felt, as if all hope was
gone. It went like a shot to my heart, although I had
begun to anticipate such a result, and had made up my
mind for immediate action accordingly; but when I saw
positively that I must, as a last card, put my project into
practice, I felt I was tempting Providence; for my tacit
project and unalterable resolution is to attempt a passage
to Stewart's Island in the boat. When I communicated
my intention to the men, with the exception of the cook
they unhesitatingly desired to go with me, which request
I did not object to on this occasion; and the cook, rather
than remain behind by himself, is going also. It would
have been better for them in the boat if some had re-
mained behind, but humanity prompts me to take them all
L
Determination to Embark in the Boat. 83
with me; for it is very doubtful whether those remaining on
the island would find sufficient food or not to subsist upon
through the fast approaching winter. The seals are very
scarce, and in all probability abandon the place entirely
about the latter end of April, at which time they began to
disappear last year, although they had previously been so
exceedingly numerous. The truth is, starvation is staring
us in the face, which, it will be admitted, is enough to
drive men to desperation. And this fact has moved me to
the resolution which I have taken, and I think I am
acting prudently. I have given it my serious and de-
liberate consideration for the last three months, as I have
all along had my doubts about being able to make augers,
without which it is utterly impossible to build anything
better than the boat; and I think I can make her so that
if she could carry two persons in safety she can carry us
all. I shall make some alterations in her before we go, as
I do not intend to start before next month, when, after
the equinoctial gales, we may reasonably expect fine
weather. And as up to the present time the weather
in this year corresponds exactly to that of the same
months in last year, I am in good hopes of being able to
get away and arrive in safety. The boat is a clinker-built
dingy, 12 feet on the keel, and, I am sorry to say, very old
and shaky. I intend to strengthen her as much as possi-
ble ;
to raise her about a foot, and lengthen her about
three feet; all of which we must contrive to do between
this and the 1st of April, so as to be ready to embrace the
first favourable opportunity of starting.
Since December, as I have before noticed, the weather
resembles very much that of the corresponding months of
last year; and I must not forget to remark that during
the last nine days we have had some of the finest weather
that we have experienced since we came here. This we
cannot expect to last much longer, on account of the equi-
On the 8th and 9th instant we had a sharp frost
in the night, with light north-east airs, and clear weather;
nox.
G 2
84
The Work of Repairing the Boat.
indeed, a more favourable opportunity of going in the
boat could not possibly have presented itself. We could
have pulled all the way to New Zealand. May it please
God to grant us such another chance when we may expect
it, and are ready! On the last occasion of my writing, I
forgot to mention having seen a comet to the southward.
It was visible from the 23rd up to the 26th January, after
which date, for some time, the weather was so cloudy as
not to admit of its being seen. Barometer has been
nearly stationary for the last nine days, at 29.80.
Sunday, March 26, 1865.-The sea booms, and the wind
howls. These are sounds which have been almost con-
stantly ringing in my ears for the last fifteen months; for
during the whole of this time I dare venture to say that
they have not been hushed more than a fortnight together.
There is something horribly dismal in this boom and
howl; sometimes it makes my flesh creep to hear them,
although I am now so well used to it. Had the romantic
admirers of this sort of thing been in my place, I would
have been thankful; and they, I have no doubt, would
have been quite satisfied. I could not wish my greatest
enemy to be similarly situated. Well, I have said I am
about to leave. Yes; this, I hope, will be the last Sunday
but one that we shall spend in this part of Sarah's Bosom ;
and perhaps by that time we may have had the good luck
to have got out of it altogether. Yes, we go in now for
death or freedom! But I have good hope of our success;
in fact we are all in high spirits about it. This, however,
is natural enough, I have no doubt; for men, after suffer-
ing such an imprisonment as we have done, are ready to
regain their liberty at any price, especially when grim
starvation is urging them on.
Since I last wrote, we have worked steadily and in-
dustriously at the boat, and have got along as fast as our
skill and tools will permit; and I think we shall be able to
launch her in about ten more days from this. We have
worked from daylight in the morning until half-past nine
Virulence of the Sand-flies.
85
at night, Raynal at his forge, and I, after dark, at the
sails in the house. We have had sails, masts, and every-
thing to make. But the other day I thought we were
ruined, for I broke the gimblet, without which our only
means of making holes would have been to have burned
them, which would be a most tedious process, for we re-
quired a great number of them; but, fortunately for us,
Mr. Raynal managed to make it so that we can make
a hole with it.
I have not said anything about the blow-flies and sand-
flies lately. I may briefly state that they are equally as
bad as they were when we first came here; and in con-
sequence of having to work on the beach we are constantly
exposed to the virulence of the latter, which surpasses my
powers of description. I have seen mosquitoes very bad.
I knew an instance, in a place called Nicarie, on the coast
of Surinam, of a sailor being driven mad by them, and,
seeking relief by plunging overboard, was drowned. I
have also been in many other places, where I found them
as troublesome as the Nicarie; but never have I seen any-
thing in the shape of mosquitoes to equal those sand-flies
in malignity. If the wind is moderate in the least degree
-that is to say, if it is not blowing a whole gale, they are
flying about in myriads, from daylight to dark (fortu-
nately they modestly retire in the night), and alight on
you in clouds, literally covering every part of your skin
that happens to be exposed, and not only that, but they
get inside our clothes and bite there. I do not think that
at the present moment I could place the point of a needle
on any part of my hands or face clear of their bites. I
remember on one occasion, when working at the boat, a
long time ago, having to abandon my job and come into
the house. But there is no abandoning it now-we must
grin and bear it, and persevere to get the job done. When
the boat is launched, which she must be as soon as
possible (as we are not able to get much to eat without
her), we shall have to leave this place, and go down to
86
Severe Hurricane.
Camp Cove, where she can lie at anchor. We shall there
be in a convenient position for popping out on the first
opportunity. The seals are getting very scarce; indeed
we have not seen one in the water for a long time. The
few cows that had calves here this year took them to the
island (Figure-of-Eight), as they did last year, but I think
we have got them all.
On the 17th and 18th we had a hurricane, which was
actually the heaviest that I have ever experienced, either
at sea or on shore. Mr. Raynal, who has resided in Mau-
ritius for a period of seven or eight years, says that these
gales are frequently much more severe than the Mauritius
hurricanes. They are, indeed, terrific. Notwithstanding
all this, there have been two opportunities of going away in
the boat during the past or rather the present month; and
I hope and trust we shall get another one as soon as the
packet is ready. Before we leave I shall write my whole
story-at least sufficient of it to be well understood, and
leave it sealed up in a bottle, so that whoever comes here
next—which, undoubtedly, some one will, although that
event may not happen for a long time-may be enabled to
discover what has happened to us.
* * * * * * *
Sunday, April 2, 1865.—The past week leaves us but
little farther advanced with our work, as the weather has
been very wet and boisterous, which has prevented us from
working outside. Indeed, with the best of weather we
only get along slowly, and I find we shall not be ready as
soon as I expected. There is a great deal to be done, and
our tools are such that it is almost impossible to get along
at all. I allowed ten days from last Sunday, and I find I
may yet allow that time at least. Mr. Raynal is constantly
employed at the forge, as there is a great deal of black-
smith's work to be done. We have everything to make-
even the nails, of which, and small bolts, we require a great
many. Since we have not been able to launch the boat,
and particularly during the last week, we have been very
much pinched for food, for there is little or nothing to be
Discovery of a Spacious Cavern.
87
picked up in the neighbourhood. We have had one hand
out all the time grub-hunting. But he had very poor suc-
cess, and things were looking very gloomy, when to-day
Heaven, all bounteous ever, its boundless mercy sent.
I will recount the day's proceedings. First thing after
breakfast we all started off, taking different directions, and
about one o'clock we began to return, one coming in after
another without having met with anything (one brought
two small fish), and we were all looking very blue at each
other, when in came the only remaining man, carrying on
his back a load of meat, weighing about one cwt. He had
met with, and killed, two large cow seals about five miles
from the house. We at once got something to eat, and all
started off to bring the meat home. We had to make all
possible haste, as we had only just sufficient time to go and
come back again before dark; and we had also the risk of
being caught by the tide, and being unable to get back
again to-night at all, as there are several places on the
way we had to go where there is six feet of water when
the tide is up, and it would be almost impossible to get by
going any other way.
On the way, Mr. Raynal and one of the men parted
company with us, they going through the bush in passing
the point, whilst we went round the point. They fell in
with a young seal, and in chasing him he fell or leaped
into a deep narrow gully, about thirty feet deep, with per-
pendicular sides, and at the bottom runs a stream of water
which occupies the whole width of the chasm, and at a dis-
tance of about 100 yards from the beach is filled up at the
top, and the stream is lost sight of, as it runs underneath
the ground, and comes out of a small hole on the beach.
One of them ran down to get to the hole before the seal
would get there, but he did not come out, so Mr. Raynal
went down after him, whilst the men kept guard over the
outlet. He found, to his great surprise, after getting down
to the bottom, that there was plenty of room to walk in
88
Winter again.
under what we have always termed the bridge. (We have
some very strange names for distinguishing places by.)
He saw the seal lying at the outlet, and watching the man
who was outside waiting for him. When he found Raynal
coming towards him he showed fight, but on getting a
knock bolted for the hole, and was duly received by the
man outside. He was a one-year-old bull; a very nice
addition to the two cows already killed. But the place
underground, where Raynal was, proved to be a spacious
cavern, divided into two apartments by the stream running
through the centre, each of which was about forty feet long
and twenty wide. The roof was about twenty feet high, and
through the centre was a round hole which had escaped.
our previous notice, and by which a flood of light was
admitted to the cavern. Mr. Raynal describes it as a very
comfortable place to live in. In the meantime we had
gone on. After killing the seal and making these dis-
coveries they followed and missed us, but fortunately fell
in with a cow and calf. The calf they killed, after having
a severe battle with the cow, and then returned. But they
were behind us about an hour, and had to swim with their
load across some of the six feet places, as the tide was up.
We were wet also, for it rained heavily since noon, and
still (9 P.M.) continues to do so. After all, we have been
kindly dealt with, for Providence has always at the last
push provided us with something.
Sunday, April 16, 1865. —Since I last wrote hoary winter
has set in in earnest, and with the utmost severity. It has
blown an incessant gale, with constant hail, snow, and
pelting rain, since the 3rd inst., and has almost entirely
prevented us from working at the boat since that time.
We have, however, by dint of great perseverance and many
a wet jacket, managed to get all done except putting on
the planks, and I have no doubt but we shall finish in two
or three days; but we must have better weather to launch
her. Small as she is, there has been a great deal of work
about her. There are about 180 clinch bolts in her, and
Severe Character of the Storms.
89
there will, when finished, be about 700 nails and spikes in
her. Raynal has had to make all these out of short bolts of
all sorts and sizes, belaying pins, &c., welded together and
drawn out. But I must be brief to-day, as I intend to
insert here a copy of the letter which I am going to leave
here, and which I have just finished writing, and the blank
space is getting very small. However, I cannot omit
taking notice of a small bird which appears to be an
annual visitor to this island, as they have been here about
the same time both last year and the present one. They
come in, immense flocks, fly rather high, and in waves.
They are evidently a seed bird of the sparrow species, and
very much resemble the wild canary, both in colour and
size. They only remained here a few days, and I fancy
they went away on the 3rd of this month, which was a
fine day, with a light southerly breeze-in fact, one of the
most pleasant days we have had since we came here, and
we have had only one anything like it before. So much
for this wretched land; but it has made up for that fine
day since, by blowing a continuous and one of the heaviest
gales that it is possible to imagine. I have been round.
both capes (i. e., Cape Horn and Cape of Good Hope), and
crossed the Western Ocean many times, but never have I
experienced, or read, or heard of anything in the shape of
storms to equal those of this place.
*The copy does not appear to have been made.-PUB.
į
90
Completion of the Boat.
CHAPTER VIII.
LAUNCH OF THE BOAT.
Friday, June 23, 1865.—It is now more than two months
since I wrote, and anticipated being away in three days,
but
man proposes and God disposes.' Since that time
we have had our greatest trials and difficulties to contend
with. In the first place, when we got an opportunity of
putting the plank on to the boat, we found that it would
not stand bending, although well steamed. We were then
obliged to almost remodel the boat entirely, and cut planks
out of the bush, which, with our saw, which required sharp-
ening every half-hour, was an exceedingly tedious operation.
In the next place, everything was buried in snow for three
weeks; then followed heavy rains and continued wet
stormy weather up to the present time, in which we, and
myself in particular, persisted in working; and we were
all seized with a violent attack of dysentery about the
same time. This we have all recovered from; but I am
left with rheumatic pains and cramps, which will in all
probability cling to me through life. This is not to be
wondered at. I am very much surprised that I have stood
it at all, for my clothing is in a most wretched and de-
plorable state. It is useless for me to describe it-it is a
complete bundle of rags; and by adding to these troubles
grim starvation, which all along has been gnawing at our
bowels, we have a summary of our calamities, the details
of which would be sickening. But, thank God! we are
now in reality on the point of surmounting or ending our
wretchedness and misery.
The boat is finished, rigged, sails bent, and ready for
launching; but the weather is at present so dreadfully bad
Savage Habits of the Seals.
91
that it is impossible to launch her. In the meantime we
are keeping body and soul together by eating roots and
drinking water. The meat that we salted and dried
eighteen months ago, and which has long been shrivelled up
like chips, has now come into requisition, and is used spar-
ingly and with a relish. We also shoot sea-gulls or any
other scavengers that come within reach of us. Everything
that is really fit to eat keeps out of our reach. We have
had one seal since I last wrote, and this one affords another
and more striking instance of the savage manner in which
these animals fight. It was found by one of the men in a
place where I have no doubt it had gone to die. One of
its fore flippers was entirely torn away from its body; the
other one was cut or broken off by the lower joint; the
lower jaw broken, and the flesh torn away from underneath,
and with a strip of skin about two inches wide torn off all
the way down the belly, and another strip was torn off its
back, from the top of the head to its tail, which was left
quite bare to the bone. How it had managed to crawl out
of the water I cannot imagine, and whether it had been
set into by more than one seal I am unable to conjecture.
It was a cow, and was with calf.
This great scarcity of meat has not been for want of
searching after it. We have constantly had one, and some-
times two, men out on the forage. If the boat was afloat,
I have no doubt but we should be able to find as much as
we could eat. When we get her afloat, we shall at once
lay in a sea stock, and be off with the first slant of wind.
I consider, now that we have finished, we have made an
excellent job of the boat, and she is not at all unsightly.
Indeed, she may be pronounced a neat, substantial-looking,
but small yacht, and what we have done is indeed sub-
stantially done. I wish the old bottom was half as good
as the new work. Here remains the only doubt of our
safety. If that stands we are safe; if not, we sink, which
will be preferable to the bodily sufferings and hellish
mental tortures I suffer here. But a truce to all ideas.
92
Capture of a Domestic Cat.
excepting that of being shortly restored to all that is dear
to me on earth. We are all in first-rate spirits, considering
the misery with which we are surrounded. It is only this
evening that we have got the boat ready for launching, and
indeed there are several little preparations uncompleted
yet.
Mr. Raynal is still making his hammer ring in the forge,
although it is now half-past one o'clock in the morning.
He is just finishing his last job, and I have snatched this
opportunity for writing a little. Raynal has all along
worked until eleven o'clock or midnight. There has been
an amazing quantity of blacksmith work required for that
small boat, which he has executed in a surprisingly skilful
manner, and he has worked very hard. For my part, I
have worked harder with my hands for the last nine months
than ever I did in my whole previous lifetime; but I must
not complain of this, for had I not done so I don't suppose
I should now have been above the earth to write about it.
I shall not be able to write much more, for my book is full,
and I do not know whether I shall be able to muster up
another scrap of paper or not.
In some part of my journal I have noticed an animal
burrowing in the earth. About six weeks ago we caught
a young cat of the common domestic species. We caught
her in a trap in the forge, where she, no doubt, went to
warm herself, after everything was quiet. We first kept
her in a box for a few days, and then tied her up in the
house near the fire, where in a few days she appeared to
have become quite contented and reconciled to her lot.
The strap about her neck by some means got broken, but
still she remained about the house for some time, keeping
under the floor in the daytime, and coming out in the
evening; and she soon cleared the house of mice, with
which we were dreadfully infested: but after a short time
she was missing, and we saw nothing of her for some time,
when she again made her appearance in the forge, where
she continues to be a regular nocturnal visitor, and is quite
Launch of the Boat.
93
tame, and likes to be petted and played with; but she
never makes her appearance until after dark.
Cats may
be very numerous on the island, and still not be out in the
daytime; therefore we do not see them. Whether they are
the only animal that makes holes in the ground here or
not I am yet unable to say positively; but if such be the
case (judging from the number of holes), they are numerous,
and are all round the shores of this vast bay.
On the 27th June we launched the boat, and took with
us such things as we might require whilst lying at Camp
Cove. Fortunately it was perfectly calm, for on getting
the boat into the water we found her so tender, the least
movement put her almost on her beam ends; indeed some
of the men were quite frightened, and would gladly have
gone on shore again. I explained to them that she would
not turn over entirely so long as the ballast, which was
composed chiefly of salted seal skins, did not shift, which
was impossible; but at the same time I felt sadly disap-
pointed in her myself, and I felt doubtful as to whether it
would be prudent to venture forth in her or not-certainly
not in her present condition; but I thought I should be
able to make such alterations as would render her more fit
to go to sea. We pulled her down to Camp Cove, a dis-
tance of about seven miles, and arrived there at dark in
the evening, and after some little trouble, on account of
the darkness, we succeeded in landing some sails, which
we had brought for making a tent with, and other articles.
From this date, until the 11th July, we had very severe
weather, and heavy gales from all points of the compass.
I have proved this to be an excellent anchorage, perfectly
sheltered from all winds, and good holding-ground. We
altered the disposition of the ballast in the boat, as also
her rig, from that of a cutter to a lug sail and jib, which
latter rig I find is the most suitable; but I found that five
of us were too many to attempt going to sea in her. I
pointed this out to the men, and proposed that two should
remain on the island, whilst I and two others tried to
94
Disinclination of the Men to Embark.
reach New Zealand, when, if I arrived safe (of which I had
very gravė doubts), I would immediately find some means
of sending for those who remained. This proposal ap-
peared to be opposed by the whole party, some of them
saying, 'Well, if any of us are to be drowned, let us all
drown together.' I endeavoured to convince them of the
folly of risking all our lives, and told them that, had any
one else been capable of navigating the boat, I would have
preferred remaining behind, as, should those in the boat be
lost, I and whoever was with me would still have a chance
of being rescued, sooner or later; but, seeing my argu-
ments had little effect, I let the matter drop. We had
frequently been out in the boat hunting for food, which
about this part of the harbour was very scarce; and the
oftener I went out the more I felt convinced that the boat
was unfit to carry all of us; still I felt anxious that we
should all get away together, although at the same time I
saw the imprudence of such a step.
On the morning of the 11th we got a fair wind, and in
anticipation of the event had to set to work in the night
and cooked up all the seal and shag—which birds I here-
tofore dignified with the name of widgeon-that we had,
and which I considered sufficient to take us to Stewart's
Island. About eight o'clock in the morning a fine breeze
was blowing; the boat was hauled to the rocks by me and
Mr. Raynal, and everything was ready for putting the pro-
visions on board and starting. I went up to the tent and
told them to bring down what was to go in the boat, and
we would be off at once; when, to my astonishment, they
all begged of me not to start, as they were afraid that it was
going to blow hard. I now found that I was going to have
some trouble with them; they were afraid to go, yet they
objected to being left behind. I saw the necessity of
having three hands in the boat, or Raynal and I would
have gone by ourselves. I now saw that I must alter my
tactics, and at once determined not to take them all; and
on the 13th (two days later) I took two of them back to
Two Men Left on the Island.
95
the old camp at the wreck, and left them there. Their
names were George Harris and Henry Folgee. These two
had always agreed very well, and the latter had evinced a
strong disinclination to going in the boat at all; there-
fore I considered these the proper men to leave behind,
giving them everything that we could spare. After landing
them, we returned to Camp Cove, so as to be ready for
starting with the first fair wind.
Several days of very bad weather succeeded, and we got
very short of food; but on the 18th the weather moderated,
and we managed to get a young seal and a few shag,
which we cooked on that evening, expecting a fair wind
on the following day.
1
96
The Voyage to Port Adventure.
CHAPTER IX.
८
WE LEAVE THE ISLAND AND LAND AT PORT ADVENTURE.-
ARRIVAL AT INVERCARGILL.-DESPATCH
-DESPATCH OF THE FLYING
SCUD TO AUCKLAND ISLAND.
The morning of the 19th July, 1865, broke
ne and
promising; at 8 A.M. a light air came from the southward,
and at 11 A.M. we set sail from Camp Cove with the first
squall of a sou'wester, which winds never blow with any
degree of moderation for more than 12 hours, and inva-
riably end in a hard gale; but by taking the very first of it
I expected to have got some distance away before the
strength of the gale would overtake us. We did not, how
ever, get more than 20 miles from the island before we
felt the full fury of a south-west gale, which continued
until our arrival at Port Adventure, Stewart Island, on
the morning of the 24th instant, after a miserable passage
of five days and nights, during the whole of which time I
stood upon my feet, holding on to a rope with one hand
and pumping with the other. The boat was very leaky, and
kept the pump almost constantly going. As my anxiety
would not permit me to leave the deck, I performed this
part of the work while the other two relieved each other at
the helm. The wind, although fair, was so strong that we
were obliged to lay-to nearly half the time, and the sea
was constantly breaking over the little craft; and how she
lived through it I scarcely know. I had not eaten an
ounce of food from the time of leaving until we arrived,
and only drank about half a pint of water; yet I felt
no fatigue until the night before we landed, when I sud-
denly became quite exhausted, and lay down on the deck,
over which there was no water washing for the first
Arrival at Invercargill.
97
time since we left the island. We were
now close to
the land. I lay for about half an hour, and then got
up again, feeling that I had just sufficient strength re-
maining to enable me to hold out till the next day; but
had we been out any longer I feel convinced that I
should never have put my foot on shore again.
On the following day, however, we landed at Port Ad-
venture, where we were kindly received by Captain Cross,
of the 'Flying Scud.' When we landed I could not
stand, but was led up to that gentleman's house, where
something to eat was immediately prepared for us, of
which I partook very sparingly; for I felt very ill and un-
able to eat, and my companions were almost as much
knocked up as myself. After this meal I had a warm
bath and went to bed, where I remained till late in the
evening, and on the following morning, after a good night's
rest, I felt much better. Captain Cross was this day going
to Invercargill. I made him a present of our boat,
and we went with him in his vessel to Invercargill. I
requested him to name our boat the 'Rescue,' and he in-
formed me that early on that morning they had hoisted
English colours on board, and given her that name.
On the morning of the 27th July, 1865, I landed in
Invercargill, and, in company with Captain Cross, walked
up the jetty and entered, I think, the first store we came
to-that of Mr. J. Ross. I had not been there more than
five minutes when Mr. John Macpherson, of the firm of
Macpherson and Co., came in. He heard my tale, and at
once, without the slightest hesitation or consideration,
offered to assist us by every means in his power, and said
that one of his vessels would most likely be in Invercargill
in a month or so, and could we not devise some means of
getting the other two men up before that time, she should
go down for them. He took me at once to Mr. Ellis,
Collector of Customs, who was the first person that I
should see, and deliver to him my ship's papers, and who,
as agent for the general government, was the first person
H
98 Kindness of the People of Invercargill.
to whom Mr. Macpherson addressed himself on our behalf.
It appeared, however, that he could do nothing for us on
the part of the government. Mr. Macpherson then waited
upon the Deputy-Superintendent, and he, on behalf of the
provincial government, could also do nothing for us. Mr.
Macpherson then took me to his own house to lunch, after
which he most generously got up a subscription for the
purpose of giving immediate relief, and chartering a vessel
to go down and bring up the two men whom I had left
behind; and before 6 P.M. had succeeded so far as to have
raised about £40 in subscriptions of £5 each.
*
In the meantime Mr. Collyer, of the Princess's Hotel,
had invited me, Mr. Raynal, and the other man to come
and stay at his house free of charge, which kind offer I
accepted. Mr. Macpherson also kindly invited me to his
house to spend the evening. In the morning of the
28th, at the earliest business hour, Mr. Macpherson re-
commenced his work of disinterested goodness and charity,
and until after dark in the evening trudged round the
wet and muddy streets of Invercargill soliciting subscrip-
tions for our aid; and on this evening had raised over
£100, besides clothing and blankets for the men
on the
island. I consider it unquestionably the work of Divine
Providence which has guided me safely thus far, and
placed me in the hands of such a humane and sympa-
thetic gentleman as Mr. Macpherson, by means of whose
untiring endeavours the public of this little town have
acted with so much bounty towards us poor castaways.
I did not think it just or proper that I should accept of
their charitable offerings so far as to clothe myself afresh,
and begged of Mr. Macpherson to advance me a sufficient.
amount for that purpose, and accept a bill for the amount
on Sarpy and Musgrave, of Sydney, which he most gene-
rously did.
A vessel was this day chartered to go down to the
island, which vessel happens to be the 'Flying Scud,'
owned and sailed by Captain Cross, who kindly entertained
(
Despatch of the Flying Scud.'
99
us at Stewart Island, and brought us here in the said
'Flying Scud;' and a sufficient quantity of provisions
for the trip was collected, either by way of subscriptions
or purchase; and it was considered by those most interested
in the affair incumbent on me to accompany Captain Cross,
so as, from my knowledge of the place, to be in some
measure a guarantee for the safety of the vessel, as she is
not insured. To this I did not object, much as my heart
yearned to return at once to my deserted family; for my
conscience tells me that this little self-denial is justly
due to all parties, and I humbly pray that we may have a
safe and successful voyage and speedy return, when I may
consider that I have fully discharged my duty.
Saturday, July 29, 1865. This day also was occupied
by the indefatigable Mr. Macpherson in running about
town, prosecuting his work of despatching the 'Flying
Scud.' I took luncheon at his house again to-day, and at
about four o'clock in the afternoon he walked down to the
vessel with me to see us off;. we were also accompanied by
his brother, Mr. William Macpherson. A number of the
townspeople were assembled on the wharf, from which, at
about 5 P.M., we cast loose and sailed, amidst the cheers,
and accompanied by the well-wishes, of the assembled
crowd. The wind was moderate from west; the weather
had been gloomy and showery during the day, but the
evening was fine. As the vessel could not go over the
bar, we brought up for the night in a snug anchorage, at a
place on the west side of the river called Sandy Point,
about six miles from town: another small vessel was also
anchored there.
H 2
100
Commencement of the Voyage.
CHAPTER X.
THE VOYAGE TO AUCKLAND ISLAND IN THE FLYING SCUD.'
Sunday, July 30.-At the peep of day we weighed
anchor and proceeded down, and although the bar was
breaking, Captain Cross perseveringly attempted and suc-
ceeded in crossing it without any further accident than the
loss of one of the sweeps, along with which, however,
Captain Cross had a very narrow escape from going over-
board; the wind was so light, though fair (north), that it
required the sweeps to keep her in the channel. A very
light northerly air carried us across the Straits, and we
got under the land of Stewart Island at dark. The wind
then came from N.W., and gradually increased, hauling
to the westward, giving us a speedy run down along the
land, and at 11 P.M. we were off Port Adventure, where
Captain Cross had occasion to call; but as the wind was now
W.S.W., we should have been obliged to take shelter in
any case, as it is useless to go out and buffet against foul
winds when it can be avoided. At midnight we anchored
in a cove at the neck of the peninsula which forms the
southern entrance point of the Port, and where the 'Fly-
ing Scud' was anchored on my first arrival, just a week
ago.
Monday, July 31.-Brisk gale at W.S.W. and cloudy
squally weather, with occasional showers. People on
board variously employed. I have been very unwell to-
day; indeed, I fear that I am going to be attacked with
some serious illness.
Tuesday, August 1, 1865.—Strong gale at S.W., with
squalls and frequent showers of hail and rain. It is very
A Pull Round Port Adventure.
101
cold, although the thermometer is not lower than 37°. The
people on board have all been variously employed. Captain
Cross sent a man to pull me round the Port, as I wished
to look at the different anchorages. In a small but snug
cove on the south side of the bay, which is called Oyster
Cove, we found a party consisting of an Englishman, a
half-caste Maori, and two Maori women, who (with five
ragged and somewhat ferocious looking dogs) were dwell-
ing in a cave in the rocks, their business there being that
of dredging for oysters, which they dispose of in the
Invercargill market. They presented me with four or five
dozen, which I must pronounce the finest I have met with
in the Southern Hemisphere.
I was very much gratified with our pull round Port
Adventure. I carefully inspected the timber, which is
abundant and of considerable variety; but saw only one
tree which at all resembles that on Auckland Islands. It
is that of the hard-wood, and is here very appropriately
called iron wood; but it grows much straighter and larger
than that of the Auckland Islands. Amongst the herbage
I saw nothing resembling in any way that of the Auck-
land Isles, excepting some of the tufty grass; and amongst
the feathered tribes I only saw one little chirruper such as
we had down there-this is the robin; neither have I seen
any of the boggy earth such as is down there, and the
rocky formations which I saw are quite dissimilar. On
returning to the vessel in the evening I found the crew as
busily employed as I had left them, in putting everything
in order for a sea voyage, which I believe the vessel has
not yet been called upon to perform.
She is nearly new,
and has been wholly employed in the coasting trade.
Wednesday, August 2.-Heavy S.W. gale, with bitter
squalls and showers of hail. It is very fortunate that we
are in a good harbour during this heavy weather and head
winds; the little vessel would have got a severe thrashing
had she been out in it, as it would be right in our teeth.
Everything on board is snugly arranged, and she is now
102 A Maori Wife and English Husband.
properly ready for the prosecution of her undertaking.
However, there are at present no indications of a change. I
am particularly anxious to be off, but must only endeavour
to wait as patiently as I can till the favourable opportunity
offers. I am quite well again; so much so that I had quite
forgotten my late indisposition.
Thursday, August 3, 1865.-The gale still continues,
but the showers have subsided, and the weather is finer.
I have been wandering about the woods to-day, and have
been to where I could see the sea, which is very rough. I
find an herb growing here which grows plentifully at the
Auckland Islands, and which the Maoris on a pinch sub-
stitute for tea. I have tried it, but it makes such miserable
insipid stuff that had I been aware that it could be con-
verted to this purpose I should decidedly have preferred
the pure water, which was our beverage.
Captain Cross entertains me at his house, which is
superior to those at the village, and at some distance from
it, standing quite alone on the top of a hill. I find that he
holds himself very much in reserve from the rest of the
villagers, who appear to look towards him with consider-
able respect. He has a very interesting family of three
children. His wife is a half-caste Maori, and it is curious
to hear them conversing together. He speaks English, and
she speaks Maori, as it appears that neither can speak the
language of the other, although they both understand that
of the other perfectly well; consequently I can hold no
conversation with Mrs. Cross. If I pass any slight
remark, she will only smile without attempting to make
any response, and to a question will simply answer yes or
The children speak both languages, but always
converse in Maori. I was highly amused to-day; we had
a visit from the magistrate of the village, who is an aged
Maori. This distinguished personage would not presume
to sit at table with us at dinner, but persisted, out of
deference to us, in waiting until we had done; neither
does Mrs. Cross sit at table with us, which I consider very
no.
Visit to a Burial-ground of the Maoris. 103
strange; but Cross informs me that he cannot prevail on
her to sit at table, excepting when he is entirely alone.
She is a very young woman, and as light in colour as a
European; the Maoris, indeed, are very light coloured
down here.
Friday, August 4, 1865.-The wind is still from the
southward, but appears to be moderating; it is yet blowing
a brisk gale, and is again very showery. I went to look
at the sea to-day, which is still running very high. There
is not the slightest indication of a change, further than a
rising barometer; but I fear it will not come before the full
of the moon, which takes place on the 6th.
Saturday, August 5.-There is no change in the direction
of the wind, but its force is considerably abated, though it
is still very squally, with occasional showers. To-day I
visited the last resting-place of the oldest and first inhabi-
tants of this island. The village burying-ground is on a
lonely point jutting out into the bay, and thickly covered
with trees and thick scrub, and is at a considerable distance
from any of the dwellings, which is very wise and proper;
but it is done from superstitious notions. They are very
much afraid of the ghosts of their departed brethren paying
them a visit. They are exceedingly superstitious. I was
aware of this fact before, but I had not the slightest idea
of its extent. I think to-morrow and the full moon will
bring us a favourable change; the barometer is above 30
inches.
At
Sunday, August 6. The morning was calm and the
weather clear; every appearance of a northerly wind.
2 P.M. we made a start with the first breath of a northerly
wind, which, as we cleared the Port, seemed inclined to
increase and haul to the eastward; but at 4 P.M. it again
backed to N.W., and at 7 o'clock was at S.W., very light,
and the weather continued clear and fine. It is now mid-
night; the appearance of the weather has changed; it is
dark and gloomy, the clouds are coming up from the south-
ward, and I fear much that we shall have the wind from
104
Continued Unfavourable Weather.
that quarter. However, the barometer keeps high; per-
haps it may continue light. We are now between Port
Adventure and Port Pegasus, beating down along the
land; and should the wind continue from this quarter, we
shall take shelter in the latter Port.
us a fair wind.
Monday, August 7.—At 4 A.M. the breeze freshened; the
weather was dark and gloomy, but the wind seemed in-
clined to back to the westward, which induced us to pro-
ceed on, and not go into Port Pegasus; and as we ap-
proached the South Cape it went to N.W., which is for
At 8 A.M. we were about 14 miles south of
the said Cape.
It is now noon, the weather is thick and
foggy, the breeze is strong, and the sea is running high,
and the little vessel is dancing about like a cork. I am
obliged to get myself chocked up in a corner to write, as it
is impossible to sit, or stand, or even lie, without holding
on, or being well chocked off. 9 P.M.-In the afternoon the
weather bore a very threatening aspect, and the wind in-
creased and hauled to the southward.
At 4 P.M. it was at S.W. (which is dead ahead), and
blowing hard, and a very high and ugly sea running; and
as to beat against it is a task for which the little craft is
not calculated, we bore up again for Port Pegasus. She
is now running at the height of her speed, which is about.
10 knots, and in another hour I expect to make the land.
We were within 10 miles of the Snares Islands, but the
weather is very thick, and we did not see them. It is the
most prudent plan to run back, as we were no great dis-
tance away, and by lying-to we should only have lost.
ground.
Tuesday, August 8.-As we proceeded to the northward
again, the wind moderated and the weather cleared a little.
It is now 3 A.M. We have just hove the cutter to, and will
wait for daylight, as we have not yet made the land, al-
though we have run 20 miles farther than where we should
have found it. I feel very uneasy about it, as all on board
do. We have only one compass on board, which I have
The Ship's Compass Out of Order.
105
every reason to believe is out of order and is leading us
astray, and where we are, or which side of the channel we
are on, it will be impossible to ascertain until I can get sights
in the morning. Unless we see the land at daylight, this
is one of the most awkward positions that ever I remember
being placed in. It is quite likely that we are in the vici-
nity of those ugly dangers, the Traps Reefs; and if the
sea is running high and breaking all over, it will be impos-
sible to see them before we should be on the top of them.
We are now under double-reefed sails: the little vessel
appears to lie-to very well. 9 A.M.-When daylight came
nothing was in sight, so we continued to lie-to until 8 A.M.,
as the weather was thick and hazy. At 8 we stood to the
N.N.W.; wind west. I have just had sights, but they are
very indifferent, for the vessel is tossing about and throw-
ing so much water over, and the sea is so rough, that it is
impossible to get good ones. However, I find by using an
assumed latitude that she is to the eastward of the island,
but how far it is difficult to judge, as a few miles in lati-
tude make a great difference; but she is no doubt be-
tween 60 and 70 miles from the South Cape. We are now
lying-to again, as I consider it prudent to do so until noon,
when I can get the true latitude.
We are all very miserable, everything wet, and we can
get nothing cooked; for the man whom Captain Cross en-
gaged, who was to have done the cooking, is a sea-sick,
lazy, good-for-nothing fellow, and can't or won't do it;
and Cross and the other men have to be almost constantly
on deck. She is very wet and uneasy, and all this is bad
enough, and we all wish the cruise well ended; but still it
is pleasure compared with what I suffered on coming up.
in the boat, and I think now that these sufferings should
have deterred me from undertaking the trip again in so
small a vessel, if at all. 1 P.M.-I got the sun at noon, and
find that the vessel is about 60 miles S.S.E. from the East
Cape of Stewart Island, which is the nearest land. The
compass must have led us nearly three points out of our
.
106 The Flying Scud' Returns into Port.
course. This was yesterday, no doubt, when we were
steering S.W. by S. At noon, when the vessel was head-
ing to the northward, the compass was right, or nearly so,
as no doubt it will be while she is heading so near the north
point. A pretty pickle poor Cross would have been in had
he had neither navigator nor chronometer on board, which
Captain Gray, the harbour-master of Invercargill, proposed,
saying that 'he could go down there very well without a
chronometer,' and undertook to explain to me how it was
to be done; which was simply in the manner that some
stupid Yankees, who don't know big A from a chest of
drawers, take their vessels to the West Indies, viz., running
down their latitude and steering west. He seemed to think
he was doing a stroke by explaining this mode of naviga-
tion, but, as matters have turned out, it would not have
answered in this instance.
It is very fortunate that we turned back yesterday,
otherwise we might have got far to leeward of our desti-
nation before the error had been detected.
It now
threatens to blow a very hard gale (we are now under
reefs), and whether we shall be able to get in anywhere to
the northward of Otago I don't know, but we must get
into the first port and get another compass, and find out
how this one is disturbed, or get the deviation. It is now
midnight; we are getting into smooth water; at 4·30 P.M.
we made the land, East Cape of Stewart Island bearing
W.N.W. about 25 miles distant. We are now beating up
for it under double reefs, and intend going into Port Ad-
venture again, where Captain Cross thinks he can procure
another compass. The one I had in the boat has been
destroyed by salt water. The weather looks very threaten-
ing. I fear it is going to blow very hard from S.W. I
hope we shall be able to get in.
Wednesday, August 9.-It has been blowing a very
heavy gale from S.S.W. since 2 o'clock this morning,
which is now accompanied with frequent heavy showers of
rain. At 5 A.M. we had the good fortune to get an anchor
The Maori Magistrate and his Retinue. 107
in Port Adventure, in the same place we left on Sunday.
We find that there is not a compass to be got here; the
only place where we are likely to get one on the island is
at Paterson's Inlet, about 12 miles from here. Captain
Cross appears confident of getting one there. If we
cannot we shall be obliged to return to Invercargill, and
get one there. As soon as ever the wind moderates we
shall leave here. This trip is becoming so protracted that
I am thoroughly sick of it, and am getting quite down-
hearted about it; indeed, the question arises in my
mind, am I doing an injustice to my family by prose-
cuting it?
Thursday, August 10.-It is still blowing a heavy gale
from S.S.W., and it would have been madness to have
thought of going out to-day. The sea is very heavy out-
side, and a very great swell is rolling on the beaches
in the harbour; and, what is worse, there is not the
slightest indication of a change. The glass keeps high--
much higher than ever I saw it during several gales
while I was at the Auckland Islands. We had the honour
of a visit again to-day from the magistrate whom I have
mentioned before, and his daughter. They were followed
by a numerous train-viz., three dogs, one cat, an innu-
merable lot of poultry, and a pig. This happy family
no doubt were the escort of the lady, as they did not
accompany his honour on his previous visit. But when
Captain Cross saw this motley train coming into his
garden he seized a stick and laid about them lustily, and
such a discord and confusion I never witnessed. The
cackling fowls took the air; the dogs, howling, took the
fence; and the pig, screaming, ran in all directions, looking
for a place to get through it; whilst the cat vanished like
a shadow-which direction she took I can't say. At all
this the old magistrate laughed heartily, but the young
lady did not appear to be so well pleased, for a frown dis-
turbed her beautiful face-and such a frown! Her broad
108 A Compass Procured from a Maori Chief.
thick lips, which seemed to have a natural antipathy to
each other, rose and fell-one touching the end of her nose
and the other covering her chin; her eyebrows fell, and
the hair on her low forehead gave chase, and almost over-
took them; whilst her nostrils distended so that her flat
nose almost covered the diameter of her interesting face:
but she did not condescend to say a word.
Friday, August 11.-10 P.M.—It continues to blow a
very heavy gale; it has been from S.W. since noon, and it
is now raining heavily, with thunder and lightning. There
is no possibility of moving in such weather as this, and
when it will end there is no telling-the Maoris here say
that it will continue throughout this moon. I wish there
was any means of getting letters across to Invercargill
but it appears that the 'Flying Scud,' on our return, will
be the first vessel to go across.
Saturday, August 12.- First thing this morning we
started for Paterson's Inlet, and anchored at the neck of
the Peninsula at 2 P.M. We left Port Adventure with a
S.W. wind blowing hard and squally; on reaching the
East Cape the wind was W.N.W., and before we reached
the Inlet it was at N. W., squally and showery.
We were
under double-reefed courses, and found some difficulty in
beating up. A Mr. Lowrie furnished us with a compass,
which was the object of our visit, and while there I had
the honour of being introduced to Toby, the Maori chief
of Ruapuke and Stewart Islands. Thi., distinguished in-
dividual was over on a visit, as Ruapuke Island is his
place of residence; he very kindly offere us the use of
the compass belonging to his boat, and, as it appeared to
be a better one than either of the two we had, I accepted
it. Toby is by far the most intelligent-looking Maori I
have yet seen; he is, I should judge, about forty years of
age, and is what may be termed a good-looking man. He
informs me that he had a party sealing on the Snares
Islands, and that there is a snug cove on the eastern side
Return to Port Adventure.
109
of the large island, where a boat or small vessel may lie
in perfect safety from all winds. I have not heard of any
such place before.
When these islands were surveyed by Drury, in H.M.S.
'Pandora,' they did not attempt a landing, but presumed
that one might be effected on the north side of the large
island under very favourable circumstances. If Toby's in-
formation be correct, this might prove a place of refuge for
us in case of necessity, and save us from having another
run back to Stewart Island; but I hope and trust that
when we do get another chance of starting we shall get
a run right down, or if we have to run back here again I
shall feel inclined to abandon my undertaking, for I am
getting out of all patience with it. Mr. Lowrie, who is
one of the oldest hands that is, one of the oldest
European residents-on the islands, thinks that we may
have a favourable change on Monday or Tuesday next,
but strongly advises us not to attempt starting again
until the wind gets in to the northward, after passing
round by south and east, as in any other case a northerly
or N.W. wind cannot be depended on for an hour.
At 3 P.M. we weighed anchor again, and returned to Port
Adventure. We arrived at 8.30 P.M., but we were obliged
to pull to the anchorage with the sweeps, as it fell calm
when we "ere off the port. It is our intention to go
down to Port Pegasus in the morning, if the weather be
still favourable, and lie there till we get a wind to start
with. Nowe have got three compasses on board, and
they all differ om each other-two of them differing as
much as two points; so that it is evident that there is some
local attraction which acts upon one more than another.
Before we go to sea I shall be obliged to swing the vessel
and ascertain their deviation, and this can only be done in
a calm, and I fear will give us some trouble; but we cannot
go to sea with compasses in this state; we should be as
well without any. The wind has been to the southward of
'
110
Heavy Thunder-storm.
east in Port Adventure all day, while to the northward of
the East Cape it has been N.W., which, I believe, is very
frequently the case. The barometer is falling rapidly. I
have little doubt but we shall have a gale from S.W.
to-morrow.
Sunday, August 13, 1865.-At daylight a breeze sprang
up from W.S.W., and suddenly increased to a gale; we let
go a second anchor. Since noon it has blown as hard as
ever I saw it do, the wind about west. The bay has been
one continual sheet of foam all the afternoon, and since
nightfall it has been thundering and lightning, with frequent
showers. The New Zealand coast pilot says that 'thunder
and lightning during a gale is indicative of its long con-
tinuance.' We have had a good deal of it lately; so what
may we expect now
?
Monday, August 14.-From the time of writing last night
(10 o'clock) until one o'clock this morning the thunder and
lightning was incessant, peal rolling upon peal and keeping
the earth in a continual tremor, and it rained very heavily
the whole time. I don't remember ever seeing a heavier
thunderstorm, not even in Australia. After this the wind
died away, and during the night came from south, where it
continued throughout the day, with almost constant sleet
and snow, and the ground is now quite white, and it is
freezing. The weather will be much more severe down at
the Auckland Islands than it is here. I hope the two poor
fellows down there will take no harm until we can reach
them.
Tuesday, August 15.-The wind has been S.S.W. during
the greater part of the day; moderate on the whole, but
squally, with snow, which this morning was about two
inches thick on the cutter's deck. Since nightfall the wind
has fallen light, and the clouds, which still come from the
southward, are not flying so rapidly as they have been doing;
but still I fear the breeze from that quarter is not yet ended.
The cutter 'Ellen' sailed to-day; the captain thought he
Unfavourable Weather and further Delay. 111
might go to Invercargill, but he was not sure. I sent a
letter by him to Mr. Macpherson, and was very sorry that I
could not send others, on account of the uncertainty of his
going across.
Wednesday, August 16.-A moderate southerly wind, with
occasional showers of hail and drizzling rain. The weather
is milder, and the snow has disappeared in a great measure.
We might have started for Pegasus to-day, but as it would
perhaps take 24 hours to beat down there we are better
where we are. I fear that the prediction of the Maoris,
that we shall have no change during this moon, will prove
true.
Thursday, August 17.-It has been raining all day; the
wind has been light and baffling from between south and
west, and the barometer is rising. I trust that a change
is near at hand.
Friday, August 18, 1865.-Light southerly airs, and
gloomy dark weather, with frequent showers of mist. I
am getting truly miserable. I can find nothing to occupy
my mind with, for my reading is all done; in fact I could
not take an interest in it if I had more. My attention is
entirely taken up in watching any slight change that takes
place in the weather. This afternoon we went to Oyster
Cove, and got about 30 dozen oysters. The barometer
indicates a favourable change. I trust we shall get away
to-morrow.
Saturday, August 19.-Calm and dull cloudy weather
until noon, but every appearance of a N.E. wind. At
11 A.M. we picked the anchor up, and pulled the vessel
towards the Heads. At noon we got a light air from
E.S.E., and had to beat out. The wind continued very
light, and at 8 P.M. died away altogether, after which,
having the tide in our favour, we pulled and got into Port
Pegasus at a quarter to 12 (midnight). It is now close to
one o'clock in the morning; calm and cloudy. I am off
to bed.
112
Calms and Contrary Winds.
Sunday, August 20.-Calm all this day. First thing in
the morning I attended to the compasses, one of which I
am very well satisfied with, as it shows little or no deviation,
and I feel that we may trust to it; the others are very
much out. In the morning we went on shore, and a dog
which we have caught a penguin. They also went in
the boat, and in a very short time caught three dozen
beautiful fish (trumpeters). Port Pegasus is one of the
finest harbours I have ever been in, and there is abundance
of heavy timber all over its shores. If the land be good,
which the abundance and verdure of its vegetation seem
to indicate, it must, in the course of a few years, become a
port of considerable importance. After dinner we got the
anchor up and pulled the cutter outside, in hope of finding
a breeze, but we were disappointed; there was not a breath
of air, so we pulled in again, and in the evening anchored
about six miles to the southward of where we lay last
night. The barometer keeps high, 30·20.
Monday, August 21, 1865.-First part calm. At 9 A.M.
a light air came from the northward, and we at once got
under weigh, and came out by the southernmost entrance,
and got a light N.E. breeze, which, by sundown, had run
us to about eight miles south of the South Cape, where it
died away, and at 7 P.M. came out from S.W. very light,
just enough to give the vessel steerage way. This is very
disheartening; I almost begin to doubt whether we shall
ever accomplish this trip or not. Here is an instance of
the uncertainty of the weather in these regions. All day
the weather and barometer bore every indication of easterly
wind, and a more easterly-looking sunset I never saw; and
now, in one hour and a half, we have the wind from the
direct opposite point, and all the indications of one hour
and a half ago are entirely reversed. All the clouds have
settled down to the N.E., and the sky is now clear, with
the exception of a low, thick, black, arched bank of clouds,
which are slowly, but surely, rising from S.W.; but the
Auckland Island Sighted.
113
barometer is too high-30-15-for a strong breeze from
that quarter. It has never deceived me in regard to a
S.W. gale, and I yet have a hope that it will back into the
northward again; at least, to the northward of west.
Tuesday, August 22.-I am once more tossing about on
old Ocean. The little vessel is dashing the laughing spray
from about her bows, and galloping away, with a fair wind
from N.W., and I think we have a fair prospect of a speedy,
and in some measure comfortable, run down to the Auck-
lands. It is now 2 P.M.; the Snares, which we passed at
10 A.M., are now out of sight astern. At 11 o'clock last
night the wind came from W.N.W., as I had anticipated,
and afterwards backed farther to the northward, gradually
increasing to a fine steady breeze. At daylight, Stewart
Island and the Snares were both in sight.
Wednesday, August 23, 1865.-After writing yesterday
until midnight, the breeze freshened to a strong breeze, and
at 2 A.M. we had double reefs in. At 3 A.M., having run far
enough to be able to see the land in the morning, if the
weather had been clear, we hove to under close-reefed sails,
and lay till daybreak; but no land being in sight, we ran
on again, and before I could get sights I began to feel very
uneasy. At half-past eight, however, the sun peeped
through the fog and gave an observation, by which I found
that we were about twenty miles to the eastward of the
island. We at once hauled up S.W. We had evidently
been set to the eastward by a very strong current, and at
least a point and a half out of our course.
I have no
notice of this current, but I had reason to suspect that
there was such a thing, and endeavoured to guard against
it; which had I not done it would certainly have put us
more than fifty miles to the eastward. At 11 A.M. we made
the land, and as the weather was so thick we were obliged
to stand close in before we could make out which part of
the islands it was. It proved to be the islands at the north
end of the group. We then saw a line of breakers to lee-
ward of us, stretching out from the land farther than we
1
114 Smoke Seen Eight Miles from our Harbour.
could see.
These are the reefs which I have mentioned in
my journal while down here. We at once hauled off, and
stood at about ten miles from the land before we felt sure
that we were clear of them, and then went through a heavy
tide race, which broke on board in all directions. These
reefs are very ugly dangers, and cannot be too carefully
avoided until surveyed.
After clearing these dangerous reefs we hauled in again,
and sailed down close along the shore; and on the side of
one of the mountains, about eight miles north of the
entrance of our harbour,' we saw, or thought we saw,
smoke. Captain Cross and the others were positive that it
was smoke, but I was not so sure of it, although I think it
quite probable that my two men may have been up there
and set fire to the grass. This we shall ascertain when we
reach them. At 4 P.M. we entered the heads of the desired
harbour, and the wind, which while we were running along
shore was blowing a strong double-reef breeze, drew down
the sound with great fury, and we felt doubtful whether
we should be able to beat up against it or not. However,
we hauled her up to it, standing by the halyards, and
lowering away everything in some of the squalls, which
would otherwise have capsized her, or blown away the
canvas. We thrashed her up, and nobly did the little
craft do her work. She was frequently down, hatches in
the water, while the spray flew in clouds over the mast-
head, smothering and nearly blinding us all. It was quite
as much as I could do to keep my eyes clear enough to
penetrate the darkness and fog, so as to keep her off the
shore and find the way up. And as we advanced up the
sound the gale kept increasing, which caused the greatest
anxiety; for had we not been able to beat up, in all proba-
bility we should have been blown away to the eastward,
and perhaps not been able to reach the island again at all.
But Providence favoured us, and two hours ago-at 8 P.M.
-we brought the brave little vessel to an anchor in the
smooth unruffled waters of 'Camp Cove,' from which place
C
At Anchor in Camp Cove.'
115
I sailed on this very day five weeks ago. How very
different are my feelings to then! It is now blowing
a living gale from N.W. Had we been one hour later
we could not possibly have beat up. Now the greatest
part of my anxiety is over, but I fear it will be two or
three days before we can get up to where the men are.
Barometer 29.50.
· 1 2
116
Arrival at Auckland Island.
CHAPTER XI.
ARRIVAL AT AUCKLAND ISLAND.-JOYOUS MEETING WITH OUR
FELLOW-CASTAWAYS.-DOG VERSUS SEAL.
Thursday, August 24.-We were up and on shore as
soon as it was daylight this morning, and to my great
surprise the tent, which we had left standing, and many
things which we had left about, had all disappeared. It
was evident that the men had been down here, but what
means they had employed in taking the things away I
could not conjecture, unless they had constructed a raft
for the purpose. We walked across the neck to the back
of Masked Island, where we found further evidence of
their having come down on a raft-half a tent hanging to
a tree, and a rudely constructed oar and mast. Fortu-
nately these latter were placed above high-water mark, or
I should at once have concluded that they had been
washed off the raft, and that the poor fellows had been
drowned. We then went back to the cutter, had break-
fast, and went round to Masked Island in the boat, so as to
have a look up the harbour, which was white with foam,
and showed the impossibility of getting up at present.
We found two seals on shore and killed them-a cow and
calf—put them in the boat, and went on board to dinner.
It was very showery in the forenoon, but at noon the
showers took off, and at 3 P.M. the wind moderated a
little, and we at once got under weigh, and under double-
reefed canvas beat up to our old house; and as we did not
come in sight of it until within about a mile from it, the
boys did not see us until we were close upon them.
them. Then
The Meeting with our Fellow-Castaways.
117
the one who saw us ran into the house to tell the other,
and before they reached the beach Captain Cross and
myself had landed, leaving the cutter under weigh, as there
was too much wind and sea to anchor her. One of them,
the cook, on seeing me, turned as pale as a ghost, and
staggered up to a post, against which he leaned for
support, for he was evidently on the point of fainting;
while the other, George, seized my hand in both of his
and gave my arm a severe shaking, crying, 'Captain Mus-
grave, how are ye, how are ye?' apparently unable to say
anything else.
The excitement of the moment over, I hurried them off
to get anything they might want to take on board with
them for the present; for it was now getting dark, and we
wanted to get back to the cove as soon as possible:
the distance is seven miles. In a very few minutes we
were all on board the 'Flying Scud,' and off before the
wind down the harbour again, and reached the anchorage
in Camp Cove at half-past 6. Immediately after anchor-
ing we had supper, which consisted of fish and potatoes,
tea, and bread and butter, and which the two poor fellows
set about with such a zest as I have seldom seen exhibited
over a meal. My first meal in Port Adventure bore no
comparison to this of theirs (although I had been five
days without food); and I did ample justice to it. They
tell me that they have been very much pinched for food
since I left them, and on one occasion they were obliged
to catch mice and eat them. Moreover, it appears that
they could not agree, and, strange as it may seem, al-
though there were only the two of them on the island, they
were on the point of separating and living apart! Snow
has been two feet thick. They tell me that they have not
been on the mountains since I left them; therefore if it
was smoke which we saw the other day, there must have
been some other unfortunates on the island, and it is our
intention to run along the shore as we go back, and
endeavour to find out whether there is anyone else on the
118
Epigwaitt-A Home by the Wave.
island or not. 10 P.M.-barometer 29.50; weather dark
and misty; wind N.W., inclined to moderate.
Friday, August 25, 1865.—At midnight last night it fell
calm, and about an hour before the break of day we took up
anchor and pulled the cutter up to Epigwaitt. This is the
name we gave to the place where our house stands, and
where the Grafton' was wrecked. It is an Indian word,
and means a home by the wave,' or 'a dwelling by the
water.' In naming it we all chose a name, wrote it on a
slip of paper, folded them all up alike, placed them in a
bag, and shook them up; then one man put in his hand
and drew out a slip, which was to have on it the name that
we were to give to the place. Epigwaitt-which was mine
-came out. We were about four hours in getting up
there. My boys picked up what things they wanted, and
Captain Cross also took anything that he could pick up
that might be of any service to him, and we started off
again from the cove, where we anchored about 5 P.M. We
had a light air from the westward to come down with. I
furnished my boys with pipes and tobacco, and gave them the
clothing which was sent down for them, with which they
were highly delighted, and, like myself, I think they can
appreciate the kindness of those who sent them; but I
find on opening the parcels that there were no shirts, and
as I know that I ordered two Crimeans, I am sorry they
have omitted sending them, for they are very much in
need of them.
I have now got one great burthen off my mind, but a
gigantic source of uneasiness yet remains-my wife and
family. God grant that it may be speedily removed, and
that I may soon enjoy their society again, and once more
breathe the air of civilization, from which I have now so
long been exiled! The men had constructed a raft with
four empty casks, and come down and taken away every-
thing that we had left; amongst which was an oar, which
they substituted for the one that I found yesterday. The
mast they had left, as it was calm, and they had no use for
4
A Dog among the Seals.
119
it, and the half seal they could not very well carry, and
they happened to have a good stock at home at the time.
Barometer, 29.50.
Saturday, August 26.-Light northerly and N.E. airs.
all this day. Captain Cross is very desirous of having
a knock down amongst the seals; he and my men have
been pulling round in the boat to-day, and the dog killed
two young ones, but they did not fall in with any more.
The other day, when we got the two on Masked Island, I
had shot the young one, as I wanted to make sure of him,
so as to give them a taste of young meat. After I fired,
Cross saw the old cow running towards him, and at once
bolted down a cliff and made for the boat. The cow,
however, turned in another direction, and the other man
and I followed, and killed her. Cross, not seeing the seal
follow him, took courage, and went up the hill again; and,
seeing the young seal lying there, thought he was asleep,
and set on him with his club, and cried out in a joyous
tone of excitement-' Where are you, boys? I've killed a
seal.' 'Are you sure you've killed him?' said I. 'Killed
him? yes,' he said, 'his brains are coming out of his
mouth.' On looking at him I saw that the calf had been
vomiting milk; and on showing him the hole where the
ball had gone through its head, he was quite crest-fallen.
'Well,' he said, 'I thought I'd killed a seal.'
Sunday, August 27.-Light N.E. airs, and moderate
pleasant weather. This is an extraordinary spell of fine.
weather; it is very seldom that we have three fine days
together down here. This morning we went for a pull in
the boat up the western arm. We killed three young seals.
Cross and one of his men fell in with an old cow, but she
escaped from them, and got into the water. They had the
dog with them, too, who fastened boldly to the seal, but
only came off second best, with part of one of his ears
torn entirely off. He is a large, noble dog; such a one
would have been of the greatest service to us while
down here. He held fast to the seal until she dragged
120
Seal Skinning.
him into the water, and would not have let go then
had not one of the men hit him on the head with his
club, instead of the seal. I was at some distance from
the scene of action, but it appears they were afraid to
go near the seal, or they might easily have killed it.
We went to the very head of the western arm. I had
never been so far up before, and I find that there is a
good ship entrance on the west side of Monumental Isle,
not less than 300 yards wide, and the sea does not
roll so heavily through it as through the east one, which
I have before recommended. Strong tides rush through
them, and neither should be attempted by a stranger
without first sending in a boat, although I have no
hesitation in saying that they are both safe; and good
anchorage may be had immediately after entering, by
hauling into the north-east basin and shutting in the
entrance, or running half a mile up.
Monday, August 28.-Light N.E., wind and fine
weather until sundown, when the wind hauled to the
N.W., with rain, and it is now (10 P.M.) blowing hard
from that quarter, and raining heavily. I have been
employed the whole of the day in skinning a young
lion, and it is not yet finished. I am taking the skin
off complete. It is the first seal I have skinned in this
way, and I find it a very tedious job. I don't know
any other animal that would be so difficult to skin. I
have promised one to a gentleman in Invercargill for
stuffing. The other people have been skinning other
seals, and trying out the blubber. They have got about
20 gallons of oil. There is no appearance of a favour-
able change in the wind, and I fear much that we shall
not get one before full moon, and next month will, in
all probability, be stormy. Barometer falling, 29.30;
thermometer 48°.
Tuesday, August 29.-Strong northerly wind and dark
cloudy weather until evening, when, as yesterday, it
hauled to N.W., and now blows hard, with rain. It
The Dog finds his Match.
121
has taken me nearly all day to finish my skinning.
They have been away in the boat to-day, and got another
seal.
Wednesday, August 30.-Heavy N.W. gale, and gloomy
dark weather. They have been out with the boat to-day,
and got two seals. The poor dog got dreadfully torn with
one of them, but I believe it did not damp his courage in
the least. He fastened to the next one more savagely than
he has ever done before. He is a noble brute, weighs
about 90 lbs., and is as courageous as a lion; still he is
no match for those large seals, one of which would
soon kill him were not some person on the spot imme-
diately to knock it down. He is, however, of the
greatest service in finding and holding them. It is
one month to-day since we left Invercargill, and a long
dreary month it has been to me; and how much longer we
shall be humbugging till we get a chance of starting I
don't know. Barometer 29·15.
Thursday, August 31.-Strong northerly gale, and con-
stant heavy rain till 6 P.M., when the rain ceased and died
away, and the sky broke, showing every indication of a
S.W. wind, as also a low barometer, 29.80, which I have
never known to fail here. Notwithstanding the heavy rain,
Captain Cross and two men went in the boat to look for
seal, and had the good luck to kill six. I have undertaken
to skin another young one for stuffing. This I intend to
present to Mr. Macpherson, if he will accept of it.
122 Commencement of the Homeward Voyage.
CHAPTER XII.
DEPARTURE HOMEWARD.-EXPLORATIONS AT THE NORTH OF THE
ISLAND.-PORT ROSS.-LAURIE COVE.-A BARREN SETTLE-
MENT.-DISCOVERY OF A DEAD BODY.
Friday, September 1.-At about ten o'clock last night
the wind came from S.W., and blew with very great
violence till midnight, and it rained heavily: as the sailors
say, it came 'butt-end foremost.' After midnight the gale
moderated considerably, and at daylight had moderated to
a strong breeze, with clear weather, broken detached
clouds (wind S.W.); but Captain Cross was afraid there
would be too much sea outside, and hung on till 10 A.M., at
which time we shipped the anchor, and are now (11 P.M.)
bundling out of the Bosom (Sarah's Bosom) in whose
folds I have experienced the greatest misery of my life;
but I fear much that the wind will haul to the N.W. again.
At noon we cleared the heads. I brought the seal on
board that I am skinning, but the vessel is too unsteady
to admit of my finishing it till we get into port again; I
hope it will not spoil. From the S.E. point of the island
—where the entrance of our late 'prison house' is to its
N.E. extreme, the direct line is about N. by W. and S. by
E., and the distance about 25 miles; while the land, from
about five miles north of the former up to the latter point
(the coast line), falls back to the westward, forming a
bight about seven miles deep, along which are the nume-
rous indentations and gullies, described in my former
journal, with here and there a small sand or shingle
beach. Shelter from westerly winds might, probably, be
Search for Laurie Harbour.
123
found in some of these places; but they are all open to the
eastward. There appear to be no off-lying dangers along
this line of coast until reaching the N.E. point, off which,
in an easterly direction, lie the numerous dangerous reefs
which I have so often had occasion to mention. There are
two small low islands amongst them, and they extend,
perhaps, ten miles from the point. There appear to be
clear passages through amongst them, but they are
evidently connected with the shore by a ridge of foul
ground, which causes an ugly swell and strong tide-rips,
and until they are properly examined are well deserving
a wide berth.
As we proceeded to the northward the wind hauled to
the northward also, so we kept the land on board as close
as possible, intending to go into Port Ross if we could
find it, as we now had a head wind (W.N.W.); and Laurie
Harbour--which, I suppose, is in Port Ross-has been
represented to be such a snug port, and as it lay some-
where at the extreme north end of the island we should at
least have shortened our journey some thirty or thirty-five
miles. Besides, I had a strong desire to see this Port
Ross, Sarah's Bosom,* Caroline, Rendezvous, or Laurie
Harbour for I believe they are all one and the same
place; having received a different name from different
persons who have visited it, in their ignorance of its proper
one, which I should imagine is Laurie Harbour in Port
Ross. Most likely the former was given to it by Captain
Bristow, who discovered the islands in the year 1806; and
in the year following left on shore in Laurie Harbour a
number of pigs, which my informant remarks had, up to
the year 1851, thrived remarkably well. And it no doubt
received the latter from the explorer Ross, who at a subse-
quent period visited nearly all the islands in the Southern
Ocean; and, in my humble opinion, names given by such
* I am now of opinion that the name of the place where I lost the
'Grafton' is Carnley's Harbour.
124
Vague Sailing Directions.
men are the proper ones to apply, and should be retained.
It is the site of a settlement and whaling station which
was formed about the year 1848, but shortly afterwards
abandoned, from what cause I am unable to say; but
most likely the scarcity of whales. I believe the company
sank some £20,000 over it, and some of the people in
Invercargill were quite surprised that I had not found out
this place while we were on the island, as we should have
been quite provided for had we got there; as we should
have found good houses, plenty of pigs, and abundance of
vegetables growing in wild profusion. Alas! for us that
the distance was so great, and the nature of the country
such as rendered travelling over it next to impossible. I
now felt very curious to see this wonderful place, and
Captain Cross was particularly anxious to get his vessel to
an anchor before a N.W. gale came on, which does not
appear to be far off. At half-past four in the afternoon we
passed the N.E. point of the island, giving it a good berth
(say a long mile), as it is low, and shallow water
appears to run off it; and a ridge of foul ground evidently
connects it with a small island which lies about 2 miles
east from it, and over which there was a nasty confused sea
and heavy tide-ripples. One breaker came on board, but
did no damage, and immediately we were in smooth water.
1
4
2
We now commenced to look anxiously for this said port.
Here we were, amongst a whole host of small islands and
rocks-the names of which we were quite ignorant of-
night and probably a gale coming on, no place in sight in
which there was any probability of obtaining shelter, and
our only directions for finding the desired port were the
following, which I copied from a letter which has found
its way into print, in a little book, entitled 'A History of
Gold,' by James Ward, and, slender as it may appear,
served us in some measure as a guide to the place. He
says-'Port Ross is at the extreme north of the island,
and contains secure anchorage for vessels. From the
entrance to the head of the port, the distance is about four
At Anchor.
125
miles. Entering the harbour from the north, you pass
Enderby Island on the right, the Ocean Island and Ocean
Point, until you reach Laurie Harbour, which is not visible
to the line of sight, as it runs behind the back of a small
wooded peninsula, which projects into the sea. After
passing Ocean Island, a ship may anchor in perfect safety
in any part, but the upper end of the inlet (Laurie Cove)
is the most suitable for ships wanting to heave down or
undergo extensive repairs. It is perfectly land-locked, and
the steep beach on the southern shore affords the greatest
facility for clearing and reloading vessels.' And also-
"The buildings are at the head of Laurie Cove, perhaps one
of the most beautiful inlets on the wide range of ocean.'
From these brief remarks I at once concluded that the
desired haven was a small snug basin, whose waters the
fierce winds of the Southern Ocean found it impossible to
ruffle. Such a place would indeed be suitable for clearing
or discharging, heaving down, repairing, and reloading
vessels; and such, in fact, is absolutely necessary, unless in
a case of great emergency. But of this anon. I have not
yet seen the place with daylight; when I have I shall be
better able to describe it. Now (10 P.M.) we are at anchor
in two fathoms of water, at the head of what may be termed
a lagoon, with a clear drift for an easterly wind of at least
4 miles. It is about a quarter of a mile wide where
we are, and widens to about three-quarters of a mile at
the entrance. On three sides of us are hills rising abruptly
from the water to the height of about 900 feet. Now I
will endeavour to describe the manner in which we reached
this place; its name I must omit, for the simple reason
that I don't know whether it has one or not; it cannot
possibly be Laurie Cove.
The evening was fine and beautifully clear, and with
a nice whole-sail breeze and smooth water we beat in
amongst the islands, finding clear passages between them,
until we had the largest and most northernmost of the
small group (its centre or thereabout), which I take to be
126
Moonlight Explorations.
Enderby Island, bearing N.N.E.; the highest hill on the
north end of Auckland Island, which is somewhat remark-
able, having on its summit a bare peak, something in the
shape of one's thumb when pointed upwards, bearing
S.S.W. On the right, when heading for the latter bearing,
is an island, lying close off a bluff-looking point, and
between them is a small, low islet.
This is no doubt Ocean Island and Ocean Point. On
the left, with a clear passage between it, and a low, thickly-
wooded point, is another island, while straight ahead Port
Ross lies open before you, the head of its waters washing
the base of the high hills. Between Ocean Island and a
small, low peninsula, with some naked, dry trees upon it
a great deal of timber having been cut down-which
lies on the west side, there is a beating width of from
three to two miles smooth water, with westerly or southerly
winds, but subject to a swell with northerly ones, as there
is a long fetch for any wind between N.W. and N.E.
Having got the vessel into the position mentioned, with
the said bearings on, we stood up for this small and once
thickly-wooded peninsula; but before reaching it the
wind died away, and left us becalmed. We at once put
out the boat, and Mr. Wheeler (Cross's mate) and myself
went ahead to look for Laurie Cove, leaving them to row
the cutter up after us. The night was then fine and
moonlight, which is but an uncertain light to strangers
in a strange place; however, away we went, frequently
taking a cast of the lead, and on getting round the penin-
sula we found an arm running in farther than we could
see, in a S.W. direction. Up this we pulled, expecting to
find the strongly-desired Laurie Cove, when 'lo! and
behold,' we found ourselves in one fathom of water, and
close up to a point which juts out from the southern side.
We now pulled over for the northern side, and finding
deeper water, went back to the cutter, which was not
very far behind. She had then a light air following her
We directed them which way to go, and then went
up.
•
Disappointment with Laurie Cove.' 127
ahead again, thinking we should find the place above the
point. But no; above the point there was not more
than two fathoms water, and that only between the point
and the northern shore: there is about a cable's length
between them. Here we anchored, and here the cutter
now lies. A very unsatisfactory place; perhaps we shall
find the right one in the morning. Just before anchoring
it commenced to rain heavily and continuously. Barometer
28.63.
Saturday, September 2, 1865.—It was calm during all
last night. The sky, at daybreak, had a very wild and
threatening appearance, and the sun rose red and watery-
looking, and a light air sprang up from the northwards.
We at once got under weigh, and proceeded in search of
Laurie Cove. We beat down the arm, or lagoon, again;
but the wind suddenly increased, with every appearance of
a heavy gale. We brought up in a small bight in 4 fathoms
on the S.W. side of the 'low-wooded peninsula,' with its
extreme point bearing N.E. by N., and a bluff point at the
other extreme of the bight bearing S.W. by S.-half-S. The
distance between them is about half a mile, and the other
surrounding land (to the eastward) is from half a mile to
two miles from where we are anchored, and a S.E or
easterly gale would come with considerable force on a
vessel lying at anchor here. We are, however, land-locked,
and well sheltered from any westerly wind; but a swell
comes round the peninsula which causes the vessel to roll
about a good deal.
After breakfast Captain Cross, Wheeler, and myself
went on shore to have a look round. We found that a
great quantity of timber had been cut down on the penin-
sula, and the north side of it is evidently the site of the
old settlement, and that the 'Flying Scud' is now riding
at anchor in Laurie Cove, and rolling about almost as
much as if she was at sea. What a disappointment! In
place of getting into a perfect dock, as we expected, we
find it almost an open road. And the buildings, and
128
C
A Barren Settlement.'
vegetable gardens, where are they? All gone; scarcely a
vestige of a house remains; bare levelled places point out
where many of them have stood, as remaining traces of
rude fences also point out where innumerable small gar-
dens have been; but the ground everywhere, except where
some of the houses have apparently stood, is choked up
with a vigorous growth of thick long grass, and there is
not the slightest sign of any edible vegetable, or even a
single shrub that is not a native of the island, if we except
a few flax bushes, which appear to thrive well, and two
small trees. As for the pigs, we have found no traces of
them.
While we were on shore it came on to rain heavily, and
blew a hard gale from N. W. After strolling about for an
hour or so, and getting thoroughly wet, we went on board
and ran out the second anchor. It has continued to blow
and rain heavily up to the time of writing (9 P.M.). I
consider it extremely fortunate that I knew nothing of
there ever being a settlement here, or most likely we
should have been tempted to try and make our way to it,
in which case it is highly probable we might have starved
to death, for there appear to be no seals here. We have
only seen one, which was in the water, and there are very
few of the roots here which we used to eat. The forma-
tion of the soil is the same here as at the other end of the
island. I have seen some rock which is different, but
much that is similar, while the timber and other vegeta-
tion is precisely the same. Barometer, 8 A.M., 29.60;
noon, 29; 8 P.M., 28.95: thermometer, 42°.
Sunday, September 3, 1865.-About midnight last night
the wind came from W. or W.N.W., and blew very hard,
drawing down the arm where we were at anchor the other
night, and sending a heavy roll round the point, so that
it was necessary to pick up the anchors, and haul farther
into the bight. She is sheltered from the wind, but lies
very uncomfortably. After breakfast Captain Cross, my
boy George, and myself went on shore. It came on to
Discovery of a Dead Body.
129
rain, and I took shelter under a flax bush, while they pro-
ceeded in another direction, and I lost sight of them. I
now commenced another survey of this deserted spot, but
saw nothing that I had not seen yesterday, except that I
find they have made stone pathways here and there—no
doubt the earth was so soft that they required them; we
made similar ones at Epigwaitt-and over these walks
the grass has shot up with more vigour than in other
places it is so thick and long that it is almost impossible
to trace them. After wandering about for a couple of
hours, I returned on board, bringing with me some speci-
mens of rock and earth. I have just arrived on board.
Cross and George have not yet returned.
8 P.M.-I had scarcely finished writing when Captain
Cross came on board, and they informed us that they had
found a man lying dead on shore, who had apparently died
of starvation, and had evidently not been long dead, as
flesh remained on his hands. They brought with them a
slate-a common roof slate on which were scratched
some hieroglyphical zig-zags, which had no doubt been
written by the deceased man, probably when dying, but
which we found impossible to decipher any further than
the Christian name, James. I reserve the slate, as some
one will be able at least to make out the whole name. They
had not disturbed anything about him further than remov-
ing an oil-coat which was lying over the upper part of the
body. After dinner, Captain Cross, George Wheeler,
George Harris, and myself went ashore to see and examine
the body, taking with us a spade to bury it with.
On arriving at the place indicated-the second bight to
the northwards of the peninsula-we saw the remains of a
dead man.
When he died he was, no doubt, under the
shelter of an old frame-house, then partly in ruins; and
since his death, and very recently, it has fallen down en-
tirely, but without touching the body, and leaving it ex-
posed to the weather. The body lay on a bed of grass,
with some boards underneath raising it a few inches from
K
1
130
A Painful Examination.
the ground, and was close up against the west end of the
house, which end and the sides had fallen outwards, while
the roof, being pressed by the wind towards the other end,
had just fallen clear of the body, which, with the exception
of ordinary dress, had no other covering than the before-
mentioned oil-coat, which Captain Cross had removed.
Within his reach were two bottles containing water, one
nearly empty, the other was full. Close by lay a small
heap of limpet and mussel shells, which fish appear to
have been his sole sustenance. He has no doubt died from
starvation. The unfortunate man lay in a very natural
and composed position. His feet, which were off the side.
of his bed, lay across each other; the body was on its
back, and the hands were laid on the lower part of the
body, with the fingers quite straight. The finger nails.
were quite perfect on the right hand, and on both hands
some flesh still remained. The skin and flesh had disap-
peared from the other parts of the body, excepting the head
and face, on which the skin remained, and was parched
and dry and of a blackish colour. The deceased has been
a man of slender frame, height about 5 feet 7 inches or
5 feet 8 inches; hair light brown, or approaching auburn;
forehead low; high, prominent cheek bones; upper jaw
protruding, and had one front tooth out; the remainder
were perfectly round and beautifully regular, and the chin
was pointed. He had on a sou'wester hat, three woollen
mufflers, a dark brown cloth coat, with an almost invisible
stripe in it, and trowsers to match; a blue serge vest, a
brownish-coloured Guernsey shirt, a red and black check
Crimean ditto, and a blue Guernsey ditto next the skin.
Cotton drawers next the skin, trowsers and woollen drawers
over all, and three or four pairs of woollen socks and stock-
ings. One old shoe was partly on the right foot, and the
left one was tied up with woollen rags, as if it had been
sore. Round his neck hung some Roman Catholic relic
in the shape of a heart, made out of two small pieces
of leather sewn together, with something sacred placed
Serious Reflections.
131
between them.
This and a lock of the unfortunate man's
hair I have brought with me, as it is not impossible but we
may yet, by some means, discover who the poor man was;
and these may be claimed and valued by some relative or
friend as the last memento of one gone.
After a gloomy and somewhat lengthened examination
of the lamentable object of our present visit, we dug a grave,
in which we placed the mortal remains of the unfortunate.
unknown, and, after offering up a brief prayer, his bones
were mingled with their mother earth. There was not a
vestige of clothing to be found about the place other than
that described, which he had on. How he has come here
I cannot conjecture. Has he been the only one saved from
some ill-fated ship? or, have there been others who saved
their lives also, and have they undertaken to travel over
the inhospitable island in search of something where-
upon they might subsist, while he, poor man-perhaps
sick, or lame, or both preferred remaining here to
take his chance? or, worse than all, has he been turned
ashore by some inhuman brute of a captain? Such things
have been done, or the idea would not suggest itself to me.
The only fact which presents itself is, that he has died of
starvation, and been alone in this solitary spot. We raised
the fallen roof from the ground to see that no one was
underneath it. As we sailed along the shore the other
day, we kept our eyes and glasses fixed on it, but did not
see any smoke, or the slightest sign of there being a human
being on the island. After performing the last melancholy
ritual to the remains of our unfortunate brother tar, we
returned pensively and gloomily towards the vessel.
This lamentable spectacle would undoubtedly give rise to
serious thoughts in anyone, but how infinitely more in me,
whose bones might at the present moment have been lying
above the ground under similar circumstances, had not the
hand of Providence showered such great mercies upon me,
perhaps the least deserving. What a field for serious reflec-
tion! And it is not impossible that at the present moment
K 2
132
The Voyage Renewed.
there are other poor men lying dead, or perhaps dying, on
other parts of these desolate islands. Throughout the day
the wind has been at W.N.W.; hard gale and showery;
barometer 29.15. I should have noticed that the deceased
had not a single article in his pockets, or about his person
—not even a knife or matches, although not far from the
remains, and under the fallen roof, were evident signs of
fire having recently been burning there.
Monday, September 4.-This morning we took a pull in the
boat round the weather shores of the bay, and I found marks
of habitations for a distance of about two miles along the
shore, to the northward of the peninsula. We also went up
into the bush at several places, but saw no further signs of
anyone having been about here recently. In the afternoon
we all remained on board, and I proceeded with skinning
my seal; but the weather was so bitterly cold that before I
got the skin off I was obliged to lay it aside again. It has
continued to blow a very heavy gale from W.N.W., with
frequent showers of hail; thermometer 34°, barometer
29-20. This evening the weather appears to be clearing
up a little. I have every hope that the wind will be more
to the southward in the morning, and we shall be able to
get away.
Last View of the Island.
133
CHAPTER XIII.
LAST VIEW OF THE ISLAND.-
-AN
ARRIVAL AT STEWART ISLAND.
UNCOMFORTABLE VOYAGE.
CONCLUSION OF JOURNAL.
Tuesday, September 5.-First and middle part of this day
heavy gales from W.S.W., with frequent bitter squalls,
with snow.
In the afternoon Condors and I took a walk
up the hills at the back of the harbour, but found it very
difficult to penetrate the scrub, which is very dense from
the water's edge to the summit of the hills, and is of the
same description as that on the southern part of the island.
We saw no clear land, neither do I think that there
is any near this end of the island. On our return
we passed the grave of the departed stranger, and
arrived on board again at 5.30 P.M. The wind had
moderated, and we made up our minds to make a start; so
at 7 P.M. we unmoored and sailed down the bay with a
strong breeze, weather clear, with good moonlight, and we
are now, 8.30 P.M., again tossing about on the boisterous
ocean, with Enderby Island nearly astern. As we came
round it, we suddenly were into one of the most ugly seas
that ever I got into. The craft is kicking and jerking so
dreadfully that it is almost impossible for me to scribble--
writing is out of the question altogether. I begin to fear
that we have done wrong in coming out, for the wind is
no better than west. She does not lie her course, and we
are already under double-reefed canvas, and very likely to
be under smaller sail very shortly; but she must face it
now-there is no turn back this time. I guess the little
craft will be able to buffet it out, and, no doubt, we shall
get a fair wind some day.
134 Dangerous and Uncomfortable Voyage.
Wednesday, September 6.-Since midnight last night we
have had a very hard gale, and till eight o'clock this evening
we managed to carry close reefs; but since that time we
are lying-to under the balance-reefed mainsail and a small
jib. There is a very dangerous sea running, but the vessel
seems to ride very comfortably-much better than I would
have expected her to do; still a sea falls on board now and
then, and the water is finding its way to almost every part
of her; but she is not making any water in her bottom.
The wind is at W.N.W., and inclined to back to the north-
ward. I fear that the heaviest of the gale is yet to come.
Since noon it has rained heavily, with gloomy dark weather,
and it is very cold-thermometer 42.37.
Thursday, September 7.-Hard gale and high dangerous
sea. The little vessel is being knocked about unmercifully.
Heavy rain. No place to lie down. Blankets and every
stitch of clothing wringing wet. Can't get anything cooked,
not even a cup of tea. Second edition of our trip in the
boat. Misery. 4 P.M.-Blowing a hurricane; sea frightful;
vessel labouring, and straining immensely; if not very
strong she cannot stand this long; consider her in a highly
dangerous situation. Just taken in mainsail and jib, and
set a small boat's sail, under which she feels somewhat
easier; but if one of the high seas that are coming round
her in every direction falls on board, she is gone; it would
knock her into ten thousand pieces. Frightful. Midnight:
at 6 P.M. the gale began to moderate, and, fortunately, the
sea quickly followed suit. We set the mainsail, but carried
away the traveller, and tore the sail. 8 P.M.-The wind
came from the S.W., and continues very light, but sufficient
to keep her steady, while the sea is rapidly running down
hope soon to be able to make her stretch her legs again.
She has weathered this storm bravely, and without sus-
taining any visible damage about the hull. Surprising
what these little vessels will stand: but she is an amazingly
good sea-boat, rides like a sea-gull, and holds her ground
well. Bravo, 'Flying Scud!'
"
2
Stewart Island Sighted.
135
Friday, September 8.-Noon; strong and increasing breeze;
double reefs in. We have just made the Snares Islands,
bearing W.N.W., distant about 15 miles. The 'Flying
Scud' is again bounding merrily off before the wind; she
is now going through the water at the rate of 11 knots,
which I think is the height of her speed. If the wind will
only stand just as it is at present, we shall be up to Pakiwia,
Stewart Island, before dark. 5 P.M.-Sorry to say that at
3 o'clock the wind, which previously was inclined to back
to the westward, went in to S.E., and now blows very hard.
At 3.30 we made Stewart Island, South Cape bearing north.
We are carrying all the canvas that the poor little craft
will bear, and the sea is now and then making a clean
breach over her. We want to make Port Pegasus, and get
in there, if possible; but I fear we shall not be able to do
it, for the ebb tide is setting her to the westward, and the
wind is hauling to the eastward, with every appearance of
a hard N.E. or easterly gale. 8 P.M.-Stiff gale (E.N.E.).
and an ugly, confused sea. South Cape bearing N.W.
about 6 miles. I fear much that she will not do it; we
shall have to run to leeward of the Cape.
Saturday, September 9.—We thrashed her at it all night
last night, endeavouring to get up to Port Pegasus; some-
times two, and sometimes three reefs in. The little craft
got a severe drubbing, and would with another hour or
two's perseverance have got in; but at 8 A.M., when within
a mile and a half of the entrance, the gale freshened, and
hauled to N.E. This was thoroughly disheartening, and,
considering the severe weather and misery we have had to
contend with, and going without sleep (I have had the
smallest share of hardship, and I can safely say I have not
slept half-an-hour since we left the Aucklands; and at the
present moment, 4 P.M., I am sitting by a fire on shore,
comfortably smoking my tobacco, and might have been
asleep for the last four hours, but I have not the slightest
inclination to do so), it is no wonder that we gave it up,
and ran round the Cape, and made for Port Easy, where
136
Arrival in Port Easy.
we anchored at a quarter past eleven this morning. Port
Easy is ten miles to the northward of the South Cape, and
by passing between the islands and the shore, and keeping
the shore close on board, within three-quarters of a mile,
you are bound to sail right into the port, which I must
pronounce the snuggest and easiest of access that ever I
have entered in the southern hemisphere. There is room
for fifty ships of any size to swing to their anchors, well
sheltered from all winds, and a convenient depth of water,
three to four fathoms. Immediately after anchoring, Cap-
tain Cross and I took the boat, and bundled all our clothes
and bed-clothes into her, and went on shore, where we lit
a fire that would roast half-a-dozen bullocks, and hung our
clothes round it to dry. We then went on board, got
dinner, and came on shore again, bringing with us a sauce-
pan for heating water in, and a tub for washing in, and
since performing our ablutions from top to toe we feel like
new men, and we are now, as I have said, comfortably
smoking our tobacco, quite regardless of the N.E. gale
which is now howling outside. Our clothes are getting
dry nicely, and I have no doubt but we shall sleep without
rocking to-night, since we could not sleep with it.
Sunday, September 10.-Strong N.E. gale, and fine clear
weather all this day. As I anticipated, I had a fine night's
rest last night, and at the peep of day Cross and I got up
and went on shore to try and get some game, as our meat
is done. Wild fowl are abundant here; we got duck, teal,
wood-hen, and red-bill. After breakfast the boat went,
and they soon got a lot of fine fish, which are also abun-
dant here. After dinner they went on shore and cut
firewood, and filled up the water on board. Although it is
Sunday, these things were absolutely necessary, in order
to be in readiness to proceed on our voyage as soon as the
weather will permit, which we have every reason to hope
will be in the morning. It is now eight o'clock in the
evening, and I am just going in for a repetition of last
night's dose.
Whales in the Port.
137
Monday, September 11, 1865. First part, calm clear
weather throughout. In the morning the people were
busy scraping the spars and cleaning the vessel up. There
were two very large whales playing about in the port;
here would have been a windfall for anyone who had gear
to kill them with. I went close up to one of them in the
dingy, and when he went down we pulled the boat right
over him. I have seen many whales in my travels, but I
never was so near one before, neither did I think that they
were such large monsters as they proved to be when close
to them. At 11 A.M. a light air sprang up from the N.W.
We at once got under weigh, and at 11.30 left the port,
with a fine breeze, which, in fifty minutes, ran us down to
the South Cape, and we anticipated a speedy and com-
fortable run along the east side of the island; but, on
arriving off the South Cape, what was our disappointment
when met there, slap in the teeth, by a brisk north-east
gale, which, with the flood tide running against it, created
a most dangerous, confused, and breaking sea.
We were
at once obliged to reduce sail to double reefs; and, by
giving the invincible 'Flying Scud' one more severe
thrashing, we got her into Wilson's Bay, where we found
a snug anchorage on the west side of the bay. At 4 P.M.
brought up in it, in four fathoms water, well sheltered from
all winds, and from the swell which I have no doubt rolls
into the bay almost constantly. This is another excellent
harbour of refuge, and anyone who had been here once
could bring a large ship in with safety. Barometer 29-60.
Tuesday, September 12.-Strong N.E. breeze, and fine
clear weather until noon. From noon till S P.M., clear
weather and calm. Latter part, heavy rain and calm.
Before breakfast Captain Cross and I went in the boat to
try fishing. We were not more than an hour and a half
away, and returned with six dozen fine codfish. I never
had such sport in fishing: we were hauling them up two
and three at a time, just as fast as we could haul in the
:
138
Beautiful Site for a Settlement.
lines. After breakfast three of us went to try our luck,
and before noon returned with eight dozen more, chiefly
trumpeters. There are very few ducks or wild-fowl here.
The barometer is very low-28.10. I expect we shall have
more wind than we want to-morrow.
Wednesday, September 13.-It rained heavily until day
broke this morning, when the rain ceased; but it con-
tinued calm, with dark, gloomy, threatening weather.
Soon after daybreak Cross and I took the boat and pulled
round to a small bay to the northward of the one the cutter
lay in.
We knew that many years ago there were some
Maoris living somewhere in Wilson's Bay, but we did not
know in which part of it. This small bay, however, proves
to be the spot, and a lovely spot it is. It is certainly the
most beautiful site for a settlement that I have seen in New
Zealand, and seldom elsewhere. The basin in which this
charming site is situated is perhaps two miles in circum-
ference, with a small, round, wooded island in its centre,
and its waters are as calm and smooth as a millpond. It
is impossible for any wind to ruffle or disturb them, and the
swell, which seems to reach almost every other nook and
corner of this extensive bay, is effectually shut out from it
by two reefs, which stretch out from each entrance-point,
overlapping each other, but leaving a deep and safe channel
between, through which the largest ship could be warped,
and find a sufficient depth when inside for mooring in. Its
shores, on all sides, excepting the north, are rocky, and
clad from the water's edge to the top of the hills with an
abundant growth of large timber of various kinds. The
northern side is where the people have lived. It has a sand
beach about half a mile long, and the land next the beach
is slightly elevated, and level for a short distance back to the
foot of the hills, which rise without undulation to the
height of about 300 feet. From the quantity of land which
has been cleared, I judge that a good many people have.
lived here. At 9 o'clock in the morning we up anchor
Once more in Port Adventure.
139
and pulled the cutter out of the bay with the last of the
ebb tide, expecting to find some wind when we got outside,
from some quarter or other, for we are all heartily sick of
the protractions of this voyage. When we got outside we
got into a most tremendous heavy sea rolling down from
the eastward, and it came on to rain heavily, with light
baffling airs from between north and west, which, with the
flood tide, put us along our own course; but as we advanced
so the head sea increased. We had every reason tó appre-
hend an easterly gale, and we were glad to get into Port
Pegasus, in the north arm of which we anchored at 3 P.M.
Rain continued till 7 P.M., weather threatening, and baro-
meter very low, 29·80.
Thursday, September 14, 1865.-Calm till 8 A.M., when a
light air came from W.S.W., with which we started out of
the Port by the northern passage. We found a very heavy
sea still running from the eastward, which is indicative of
recent heavy easterly gales on the coast. The wind continued
light, and came from the same quarter until evening, and at
P.M. we once more anchored in Port Adventure; and I feel
truly thankful that this much of our hazardous and miserable
voyage has been safely accomplished. I have no doubt
but the remainder will be easily performed, and from the
appearance of the weather I am in hope of our reaching
Invercargill to-morrow; and if the weather be favourable
Captain Cross intends to tow the 'Rescue' (the boat I
came up in) over, and let the good people of Invercargill
look at her. Since anchoring the weather has been calm
and clear. The barometer keeps very low (295), which I
cannot understand.
C
Friday, September 15, 1865.-We sailed from Port Ad-
venture in the Flying Scud,' having the 'Rescue' in tow,
with a moderate S.W. breeze, until in crossing Foveaux
Straits the wind increased, and the sea ran high, and on
arriving at the New River bar the sea was breaking right
The 'Rescue' had got full of water, parted the
tow rope, and was left to her fate.
across.
•
140
Conclusion of the Journal.
And thus, with a grateful heart, I end my journal; with
what deep thankfulness to a gracious Providence for saving
myself and my companions from a miserable fate, I trust I
need not set down here.
THOMAS MUSGRAVE.
APPENDICES.
I.
AN ACCOUNT OF THE SEA-LION
AND ITS HABIT S.*
BY CAPTAIN THOMAS MUSGRAVE.
Ir is universally understood that the seal is an amphibious
animal, sleeping and frequently basking in the sun on shore,
and finding and eating their food entirely in the water.
Four flippers, on the underneath side (on which there is no
fur, but a hard black skin), only sufficiently long to raise
them so that their belly is clear of the ground, serve the
purpose of legs and feet when on shore, and as propellers
when in the water. They are clad with fur, which varies
very much in texture and value. They are considerably
sought after, both for their fur, and the skins of some
species, which make a very superior leather; and they also
yield a considerable quantity of valuable oil.
There are many species of seal (phoca), some of which
are found in nearly all parts of the world beyond the limits
of the tropics; but as man appears so they disappear,
hence they are seldom seen but by navigators.
But the sea-lion, which I am about to describe, and to
endeavour to convey some idea as to his habits, &c., is only
found in high north or southern latitudes, and is perhaps
never seen nearer the Equator than 48°.
* This account was originally written in scal's blood, as were most of
Captain Musgrave's journals.
142
Characteristics of the Tiger Seal.
The females are of a grey, golden buff, or beautiful silver
colour, sometimes spotted like the leopard, and are called
tiger seals. Their fur is about an inch long, not very soft,
but very thick, and particularly sleek and smooth. Their
nose resembles that of the dog, but is somewhat broader;
their scent appears to be very acute. The eyes are large,
of a green colour, watery, and lustreless; when on shore
they appear to be constantly weeping. I have heard
sealers say that they have a very sharp eye, and can see a
great distance; but I beg leave to correct those who are of
that opinion, for I have every reason to believe, and am
fully convinced, that such is not the case. On the con-
trary, their eye is not sharp, neither can they see far when
on shore; but, as I have already noticed, their sense of
smell is very keen. In the water-for which element
chiefly their eye is evidently formed-I have no doubt but
they see well. The ears are particularly small, tapering,
and are curled in such a manner as to exclude the water;
and their sense of hearing is not very acute. The mouth,
which is prodigiously large, is furnished with teeth, four of
which (the canine teeth) are an immense size. I have seen
one of these measuring 33 inches long by 3 in circum-
ference at the base. On the upper lip, on each side, are
thirty bristles (they seldom deviate from this number) of a
hard horny nature, and resembling tortoiseshell in appear-
ance, from 6 to 8 inches long, gradually decreasing as they
approach the nose to 1 or 2 inches in length, and the
regularity with which these bristles are arranged is strik-
ingly admirable.
The females and young seals generally remain in the
bays, and they appear to select bays which have wooded
shores, most probably for the sake of the shelter which they
and the long coarse dried grass afford, and which most
likely they and their young require in those tempestuous
regions, where only they are to be found; whilst during
the greater part of the year the males, which are naturally
much more bardy, remain outside, and fish amongst the
Furious Fights among the Bulls.
143
rocks along the sea coasts, where, judging from their con-
dition when they come in, they fare by far the best.
The males, or—as we sailors call them-the bulls (al-
though I believe they are more commonly designated dogs
and bitches), are uniformly of a blackish grey colour. One
of a medium size will measure about six feet from nose to tail
(which latter is about three inches long), and about six or
seven feet in circumference, and weigh about 5 cwt. They
by far exceed these dimensions; I have seen one seal pro-
duce forty gallons of oil. The fur and skin are superior to
those of the female, being much thicker; and the former
finer from the shoulders backwards, though not so pretty.
On the neck and shoulders he has a thicker, longer, and
much coarser coat of fur, which may almost be termed
bristles. It is from three to four inches long, and can be
ruffled up and made to stand erect at will, which is always
done when they attack each other on shore, or are sur-
prised, sitting, as a dog would do, with their head erect,
and looking towards the object of their surprise; and in
this attitude they have all the appearance of a lion; and
adding the enormous teeth already described, which they
invariably display on these occasions, gives them (in ap-
pearance) all the ferocity and formidableness which their
name seems to imply.
They begin to come into the bays in the month of October
(in the southern hemisphere), and remain until the latter
end of February, each one selecting and taking up his own
particular beat in a great measure; but sometimes there
are several about the same place, in which case they fight
most furiously, never coming in contact with each other
(either in or out of the water) without engaging in the
most desperate combat, tearing large pieces of skin and
flesh from each other. Their skins are always full of
wounds and scars, which, however, appear to heal very
quickly.
From November until the beginning of February they
lie in the sun a great deal, generally selecting a sand
144
Methods of Killing Seals.
or shingle beach to land and lie upon, and are easily killed
during this season; for they frequently, when in the water,
on seeing a man on shore, will land and charge him, or
rather chase him if he will run away; but on facing the
seal he will generally stand, when the man must go very
quietly up to him and kill him; but sometimes, on the
man facing him, he will retreat quickly into the
water.
Another mode of getting them on shore, which during
this season never fails, is to retire into the bush out of
their sight, and imitate the lowing of a cow, which is the
natural cry of a female seal. To kill them it is usual
to strike them on the nose with a wooden club, and if hit
in the proper place a very slight blow stuns them, when
they must at once be stuck. This method of killing them
is quite proper when they can be taken whilst asleep; but
when they are not plentiful, and it is necessary to get them
up out of the water in the manner described, the surest
plan is to put a ball into their head, before moving to-
wards them; then go up, give them a blow with a club,
and stick them; for if they escape after getting a blow
they will not be got out of the water in the same manner
a second time, and it makes the others shy also. Although
they are so ferocious amongst themselves, and so for-
midable in appearance, when attacked by man they will,
as a general rule, escape into the water if possible; yet in
striking them it is necessary to make sure of the blow,
otherwise they are very likely to get hold of the party at-
tacking them, in which case he will not escape without, at
least, broken bones. It requires some nerve to face these
monsters, which is only acquired by practice.
Having treated pretty fully on the character and habits
of the males, or bulls, we must now turn our attention to
the females, or cows, which are proportionately smaller
and much more timid than the bulls. They will scarcely in
any case confront a man; but, like the bulls, if not knocked
down by the first blow, will snap and break anything that
The Cows and their Habits.
145
happens to get between their powerful and capacious jaws.
Their appearance I have already described.
In the latter part of December, and during the whole of
January, they are on shore a great deal, and go wandering
separately through the bush (or woods), and into the long
grass on the sides of the mountains above the bush, con-
stantly bellowing out in a most dismal manner. They are
undoubtedly looking for a place suitable for calving in; I
have known them to go to a distance of more than a mile
from the water for this purpose. Their voice is exceedingly
powerful, and in calm weather may be heard to the almost
incredible distance of four and a half or five miles. Why
they bellow so much before calving I am scarcely able to
judge; but after that event, which does not take place
until after the first of February,* it is undoubtedly to
call their young, which they generally get into the water
a few days after they are born, and assemble them in great
numbers at some particular place, selecting such places as
a small island or a neck of land with a narrow junction.
This, no doubt, prevents them from getting straggled about
and lost, as they do sometimes in the bush; while in these
places they cannot very well get away without going into
the water, to which, when very young, they have a great
antipathy.
The means employed by the cow of getting her young
into the water for the first time, and taking it to a place
of safety, is, when witnessed, highly amusing.
It might be supposed that these animals, even when
young, would readily go into the water-that being one of
their natural instincts-but strange to say such is not the
case; it is only with the greatest difficulty, and a wonderful
display of patience, that the mother succeeds in getting
her young in for the first time. I have known a cow to
be three days getting her calf down half a mile, and into
the water; and what is most surprising of all, it cannot
*They have only one calf at a birth.
L
146 Antipathy of Young Calves to the Water.
swim when it is in the water. This is the most amusing
fact; the mother gets it on to her back, and swims along
very gently on the top of the water; but the poor little
thing is bleating all the time, and continually falling from
its slippery position, when it will splutter about in the
water precisely like a little boy who gets beyond his depth
and cannot swim. Then the mother gets underneath it,
and it again gets on to her back. Thus they go on, the
mother frequently giving an angry bellow, the young one
constantly bleating and crying, frequently falling off,
spluttering, and getting on again; very often getting a
slap from the flipper of the mother, and sometimes she
gives it a very cruel bite. The poor little animals are very
often seen with their skins pierced and lacerated in the
most frightful manner. In this manner they go on until
they have made their passage to whatever place she wishes
to take the young one to; sometimes they are very nume-
rous at these places, their numbers being daily augmented
until the latter end of March. Here the young remain with-
out going into the water again, for perhaps a month, when
they will begin to go in of their own accord; but at first
they will only play about the edge, venturing farther by
degrees; and until they are three months old, if surprised
in the water, they will immediately run on shore and hide
themselves; but they always keep their heads out, and their
eyes fixed on the party who has surprised them, imploring
mercy in the most eloquent language that can be commu-
nicated by these organs.
During the months of February, March, and April, the
cows are on shore the greater part of the time, and lie in
the bush in mobs of from twelve to twenty together, at the
places where their calves are assembled. They do not
appear to have any particular time for going into the water
to feed; and they allow their young to suck whenever they
please; and when they are satisfied they immediately leave
the cows and play in small groups, at some distance from
the old ones. The mothers appear to take scarcely any
Affection of the Cows for their Young. 147
notice whatever of their young, which, added to the fact of
their being so cruelly bitten sometimes, as already noticed,
led me at one time to think that they had no natural affec-
tion for them. This, however, I found was quite a mis-
taken idea. One instance came especially under my notice
of a cow whose calf had been killed and taken away from
her, roaming about the place where she lost it, incessantly
bellowing, and without going into the water-consequently
going without food-for eight days. After the first few
days her voice gradually became weaker, and at last could
scarcely be heard. I made sure that she was dying. She
survived it, however, and on the eighth day went into the
water; but for more than a month afterwards she paid a
daily visit to the spot, bellowing in the most doleful
manner. I have cited this case, which is not an isolated
one. It may be considered as the rule, not an excep-
tion.
Before they have their calves, or from the beginning of
January, the cows lie sometimes in small mobs in the sun,
as well as while giving suck, and there are generally one or
two bulls in each mob; the latter leave the bays after the
beginning of April. The cows are evidently by far the
most numerous; they begin to breed when two years old,
and have a calf when three years old; they carry their
calves eleven months. Their teats are four in number, and
are placed on the belly about equi-distant from each other
and the flippers; the nipple (excepting when in the mouth
of the young seal) recedes inwards, leaving nothing visible
save a small black spot; thus there is nothing to obstruct
or impede them when in the water. The teat is about as
big as a person's little finger from the middle joint to the
end.
The tongue of the seal is split, or rather has a notch in
the end, about an inch deep, leaving a point on each, the
only utility of which appears to be that of pressing out the
teat when they are sucking.
When the young seals are about three months old they
L 2
148 Curious Pebbles Disgorged by the Cows.
leave off sucking, and, with the cows, leave the places
where they were suckled; and now all the seals keep in
the water nearly altogether in the daytime, and in the
night they are on shore. They do not appear to choose
any particular place for sleeping in, further than taking
shelter in the bush, or in the long grass close to the water.
They do not go far from the water, and sleep in small mobs
of six or eight together; never going on shore until after
dark, and going into the water again at the very peep of
day. Sometimes the same mob will sleep in the same place
for several nights in succession, if they are not disturbed;
it may be thus ascertained where they are to be found.
About this time (i. e., May), or shortly after beginning
to breed, the cows are very much troubled with vomiting,
when small pebbles are often disgorged, which are very
likely snapped up when catching fish on the bottom, and
would at any other time have been digested. I have
picked up a number of very remarkable little stones (if
they are stones, for I have not as yet been able to ascer-
tain) which have been brought up from the deep in this
manner. On one occasion I found a deposit of these
curiosities six and a half feet below the surface of the
earth—or, more strictly speaking, the decayed vegetable
matter of which the place was composed; and some of
them are particularly curious and pretty. And supposing
that the accumulation of this decomposed vegetable matter
is half the sixteenth of an inch (which is scarcely possible)
every year, it is more than 2,500 years since they were
brought up from the sea, and vomited there by a sea
lioness. I would describe some of them, but as the
matter is foreign to my subject I will at once return to it.
I am inclined to think that these seals prey more upon
small fish than large ones, and they very frequently eat
crabs and mussels, and they will sometimes seize upon
birds, such as the widgeon and duck; but they do not prey
upon each other, neither will they eat anything that they
find dead. Their greatest speed in the water does not
Speed of Seals by Land and Water. 149
exceed twenty miles an hour; and when going through
the water at the height of their speed they have the ex-
traordinary power of stopping themselves instantaneously.
Sometimes, when anything surprises them, as a boat for
instance, they will come towards it at the top of their
speed, and when within perhaps a yard of it, they will,
without the slightest diminution of velocity, raise their
head and half their body out of the water, and at once
become motionless as a statue. I have known bulls to
attack a boat, but this is not a frequent occurrence.
When they are on shore they can run surprisingly fast;
on a hard, smooth beach, they can run nearly as fast as a
man; and in the bush, or long grass, they can get along
much faster. They can also climb up rocky cliffs and steep
slippery banks which would be inaccessible to man, and
very often they fall backwards down these places and
bruise themselves severely. In conclusion, I must observe
that the above notes have been deduced from experience
gained entirely in the southern hemisphere, in latitude
about 51° S. But I have not the least doubt but my
remarks may be applied to the same species of seal in the
northern hemisphere in the corresponding seasons. Per-
haps few persons have had so good an opportunity of
observing the habits of this animal as myself; as I had
during the prosecution of a voyage to the Southern Ocean
(partly for sealing purposes) the misfortune to be ship-
wrecked, and left upon one of those desolated islands for a
period of twenty months, and our food during that time
consisted almost entirely of seals' flesh; and I may add
that that of the suckling, which is the best, is far from
being unpalatable; and if it could be had with the neces-
sary accompaniment of meat, it might be made a most
delicious dish.
It will be obvious from a perusal of these observations
that the months of February, March, and April, are the
best suited for sealing purposes. May and June are also
good months; but the whole business of the day's killing
150
Most Favourable Time for Sealing.
must be done at the very dawn of day, so that it is neces-
sary to know where different mobs are encamped, and a
party of men must be at the place where each mob is to be
attacked at the peep of day, as they nearly all go into the
water within a few minutes of the same time.
THOMAS MUSGRAVE.
II.
A SHORT ACCOUNT
OF
THE AUCKLAND ISLAND S.*
OUR first knowledge of this group of islands is due to the
commercial enterprise of British merchants. They were
discovered by Captain Abraham Bristow, in the ship
'Ocean'-a vessel belonging to the late Samuel Enderby,
Esq.-during a whaling voyage, August 16th, 1806. This
was in his third voyage round the world, and the follow-
ing extract from his log-book, quoted by Sir James Ross,
announces the discovery :-' Moderate and clear; at day-
light saw land, bearing west by compass, extending round
to the north as far as N.E. by N., distant from the nearest
part about 9 leagues. This island or islands, as being the
first discoverer, I shall call Lord Auckland's (my friend
through my father), and is situated, according to my
observation at noon, in lat. 50° 48′ S. and long. 166° 42′
E., by a distance I had of the sun and moon at half-past
The land is of a moderate height, and from its
appearance I have no doubt but it will afford a good
harbour in the north end, and I should suppose lies in
about the latitude of 50° 21′ S., and its greatest extent is in
ten A.M.
See further Findlay's 'Pacific Directory,' a book no navigator in these
seas should be without, though it is not to be got in the ports of Melbourne
or Sydney. The books from which this account has been compiled are all
to be found in the Melbourne Public Library.
152
Visits made to the Island.
C
a N.W. and S.E. direction. This place, I should suppose,
abounds with seals, and sorry I am that the time and the
lumbered state of my ship do not allow me to examine it.'
Captain Bristow visited them in the following year
(1807) in the Sarah,' also belonging to the Messrs.
Enderby, when he took formal possession of them for the
British Crown, and left some pigs there, which afterwards
increased to a surprising extent, but seem, by Captain.
Musgrave's account, to have since become quite extinct.*
The islands remained untenanted during the subsequent
years, being visited occasionally by vessels in search of
whales and seals-the former coming into the bays to calve
during the months of April and May, and the latter con-
sisting chiefly of sea lions. Among those who came hither
in 1829 was Captain Morrell, an American navigator, to
whom, among other things, we owe the discovery of
the deposits of guano at Ichaboe, and whose description
of the port of Carnley's Harbour is given presently.
In the year 1840 the island was visited by the vessels of
three nations—the English ships 'Erebus' and 'Terror,'
under Sir James Clark Ross and Captain Crozier; † the
French corvettes 'L'Astrolabe' and 'La Zelée,' under
Dumont D'Urville; and the United States Exploring
Expedition, under Captain Charles Wilkes. From the
narratives of these voyages we have chiefly derived the
subsequent particulars.
The islands were without permanent inhabitants during
all the periods of the above visits; but, subsequently, a
body of New Zealanders, about seventy in number, came
over from Chatham Island in a whale ship, and were
landed on the N.E. or Enderby Island. Bringing with
them their warlike spirit, their quarrels soon led to an
* A few pigs of a very small breed appear to have been seen by the
shipwrecked crew of the 'Invercauld' in the north part of the island.
† Afterwards lost whilst commanding the same old ship in the Franklin
expedition to the Arctic regions.
The Southern Whale Fishery Company. 153
outbreak, and some fighting and loss of life ensued. They
then divided into two separate bodies, under different
chiefs, about thirty remaining in their original locality,
twenty-five more going to the southward, the remainder
maintaining separate independence. Neither Maori nor
European has, however, trodden these desolate shores for
many years prior to Captain Musgrave's visit.
From the eminent services rendered to geographical
science, and to further those commercial enterprises in
which the Messrs. Enderby for several generations had
so largely engaged, the group was granted by the British
Government to Messrs. Charles, George, and H. Enderby,
and on the formation of the Southern Whale Fishery
Company they undertook the establishment of their prin-
cipal centre of operations here. Accordingly, Mr. Charles
Enderby, with an efficient staff of assistants, took posses-
sion of his domain in the early part of 1850, finding
the New Zealanders before mentioned in possession of a
portion of the land. Their claims were soon adjusted, and
they became great auxiliaries to the infant colony. This,
then, is the brief history of this remote island. It pro-
mised to become a most conspicuous point in the wide
world of waters. With every advantage of insulation, the
possession of numerous and excellent harbours, with every
means at command for the relaxation of whale and other
fisheries in these seas, it was not unreasonably thought
that it must some day become the centre of much trade,
and that, too, of a very different character to almost every
other part of the South Pacific. But in less than two
years the whole scheme of the Great Southern Whale
Fishery' fell through. It does not fall within our province
to go into particulars, although the story is both curious
and instructive. It is sufficient to say that the whole
settlement was abandoned in 1852, and the business
details became the source of infinite legal difficulties.
Though the group has been visited by the four principal
navigators above mentioned, Morrell describing a southern
154 Formation and Productions of the Islands.
harbour which he calls Carnley's Harbour, and the three
others all having confined their remarks to the northern or
Laurie Harbour, we had but an imperfect notion of the entire
group, even as regards its dimensions, until the recent
visit of Captain Musgrave.
From the cursory examinations made by Mr. Enderby,
it would appear that the island must be considerably
broader than is represented on D'Urville's chart. Of course
the very imperfect sketch given by Bristow cannot be taken
as giving a correct idea of the island.
The following imperfect notices of the group are collected
from the Narrative of the 'Voyage of Discovery, &c., of
H.M.S."Erebus " and "Terror, vol. I.; the 'Narrative of
the United States Exploring Expedition,' vol. II.; ‘Le
Voyage de "L'Astrolabe" et "La Zelée," par M. Dumont
d'Urville; and the 'Narrative of Four Voyages,' by B.
Morrell. These sources have been also combined in a
brochure, by C. Enderby, Esq., F.R.S., A Short Account
of the Auckland Islands,' &c., London, 1849; and see also
the Quarterly Review' for June, 1847.
Mr. M'Cormick, the naturalist to Sir James Ross's Ant-
arctic Expedition, remarks that the formation of the Auck-
land Islands, as well as Campbell Islands, is volcanic, and
constituted chiefly of basalt and greenstone. He also calls
attention to Deas Head, in Laurie Harbour, north of Shoe
Island, as being of great geological interest, exhibiting
fine columns 300 feet high, which are highly magnetic.
The loftiest hill, Mount Eden, at the head of Laurie Har-
bour, attains an elevation of 1,325 feet, is rounded at the
top, and clothed with grass to its summit. Another hill in
the west rises to nearly 1,000 feet.
PRODUCTIONS.-Dr. Hooker, whose observations have been
published in connection with the voyage of the 'Erebus'
and 'Terror,' under the title of 'Flora Antarctica,' remarks
that, 'Perhaps no place in the course of our projected
voyage in the Southern Ocean promised more novelty to
the botanist than the Auckland Islands. Situated in the
4
:
Vegetation of the Islands.
155
midst of a boisterous ocean, in a very high latitude for that
hemisphere, and far removed from any tract of land but
the islands of New Zealand, they proved, as was expected,
to contain amongst many new species some of peculiar
interest. Possessing no mountains rising to the limits of
perpetual snow, and few rocks or precipices, the whole land
seemed covered with vegetation; a low forest skirts all the
shores, succeeded by a broad belt of brushwood, above
which, to the summit of the hills, extend grassy slopes.
On a closer inspection of the forest it is found to be com-
posed of a dense thicket of stag-headed trees, so gnarled
and stunted by the violence of the gales as to afford an ex-
cellent shelter for a luxuriant undergrowth of bright green
feathery ferns, and several gay flowered herbs. With
much to delight the eye, and an extraordinary amount of
new species to occupy the mind, there is here a want of any
of those trees or shrubs to which the voyager has been
accustomed in the north; and one cannot help feeling how
much greater the pleasure would be to find new kinds of
the pine, the birch, willow, or the oak, than those remark-
able trees which have no allies in the northern hemisphere,
and the mention of which, suggesting no familiar form to
compare them with at home, can interest few but the pro-
fessed botanist. Eighty flowering plants were found—a
small number, but consisting of species more remarkable
for their beauty and novelty than the flora of any other
country can show, no less than fifty-six being hitherto un-
described, and one-half of the whole peculiar to this group,
as far as is at present known.'
THE TREES on the island have been stated by some as
rising to 70 feet in height, by others only to 30 feet. Cap-
tain Musgrave gives the latter. Both may be right, for
they are most generally found to have been overturned by
the strong gales, which is readily done, from the nature of
the soil they grow in-a very deep, light, peaty earth,
which affords but little support for the roots. The trunks
attain a diameter of four and five feet at times, but, from
156
Trees and Water.
the above-mentioned cause, the stems are seldom straight
enough to afford timber of any magnitude. For knees, or
such purposes, it may be very valuable. Abundance of fuel
from this source, then, may be relied on. The peat, too,
which covers the greater portion of the land, might be made
available for this purpose, but not perfectly so, by the usual
mode adopted in Ireland.
WATER, as an article of consumption, is very abundant.
The stream which falls into the head of Laurie Harbour
had sufficient water to form a noble cataract after a month's
dry weather, and, indeed, abundance of streams are to be
met with in all parts. The nature of the soil is such that,
whatever quantity of rain falls, it very quickly sinks below
the surface, and then, probably, percolates away on the
volcanic and impervious rock beneath. From the moisture
of the climate, and the igneous character of the rock, this
peaty formation arises. This vegetable formation is found
to be several feet in thickness, and consists of a mass of
decomposed black vegetable fibre, which, if properly com-
pressed, makes good fuel. Great difficulty was experienced
in forming a foundation for the observatory, at the time of
the 'Erebus' and 'Terror's' visit; they had to dig twelve
feet through the peat to gain the solid rock on which to
erect the instruments. The magnetic observations made
here were found to be singularly affected by the nature of
the island. Some of the magnets were found entirely to
depend for their direction of the north and south poles on
the fragments of rocks around them. The compasses in
the 'Terror' were so much affected by Shoe Island as to
mask the local attraction of the iron in the ship. These
phenomena led to the opinion that the island may be taken
as one great magnet itself.
* As an evidence that the wood will burn-a quality not always found
in these latitudes-it is mentioned by Sir J. C. Ross that some of his
officers set fire to the dense brushwood to clear a path for their explora-
tions of the interior.
Zoology of the Islands.
157
Respecting the ZOOLOGY of these islands, Mr. McCormick
observes 'there is no species of land animal, with the ex-
ception of the domestic pig introduced several years ago
in the island by Captain Bristow.' Their food consists of
the arabia polaris, described by Dr. Hooker as
one of the
most beautiful and singular of the vegetable productions
of the island it inhabits; growing in large orbicular masses
on rocks and banks near the sea, or amongst the dense and
gloomy vegetation of the woods. Its copious bright green
foliage and large umbels of waxy flowers have a most
striking appearance.'* The whole plant,' he adds, "has
a heavy and rather disagreeable smell, common to many of
its natural order, but it is nevertheless greedily eaten by
goats, pigs, and rabbits. It is so abundant in marshy
spots that these animals frequently live entirely amongst
it, particularly when it grows near the margin of the
woods, where they form broad tracks through the patches,
grubbing up the roots to a great extent, and, by trampling
down the soft stems and leaves, make soft and warm places
for themselves to litter in. One of these animals was shot
by Mr. Hallett, and, although in poor condition, its flesh
was considered well flavoured, though by no means equal
to that of our own well-fed pigs.'
LAURIE HARBOUR and the north part of the island are
thus described in the narrative of the United States Ex-
ploring Expedition in the ship 'Porpoise,' dated 7th March,
1840:-
'On the 7th we anchored in the harbour of Sarah's
Bosom, in twelve fathoms water. During our brief stay
here, all were actively employed wooding and watering,
for which this harbour affords a fine opportunity. Assis-
tant-Surgeon Holmes made several excursions on the
largest island, of which he gives the following account:-"I
found it very thickly covered with trees in its less elevated
parts. As few of them were of any size, I found no small
* Flora Antarctica, p. 20.
158
The Birds.
difficulty in penetrating and making my way through
them; in many places it was absolutely impassable. It
was only after a long and fatiguing walk that I succeeded
in reaching the summit of that part of the island near
which the brig was anchored, when I found the trees less
A thick growth of underwood and dwarf
bushes, intermingled with ferns, concealed the surface,
rendering it difficult to walk. Even in the places appa-
rently most level, the ground was very unequal, and a single
step would sometimes send me nearly up to the neck into
a hollow filled with large fern fronds.
numerous.
""On the highest parts, the small level spots were
covered only with moss and a description of tall grass, and
in places also a kind of grain grew abundantly. The
ground was dry everywhere, all the water being found in
the streams, which were numerous and pure.
"Near the summit the ground was perforated in all
directions, probably by birds who rear their young in these
holes. Many of the birds, principally procellaria, were
sitting on the ground; they made an effort to escape, but
suffered themselves to be taken without any attempt at
resistance.
"The forest was full of small birds, of three or four
different species, which were perfectly fearless. One little
fellow alighted on my cap as I was sitting under a tree,
and sang long and melodiously. Another, and still smaller
species, of a black colour, spotted with yellow, was numer-
ous, and sang very sweetly; its notes were varied, but
approximated more nearly to the song of our blackbird;
occasionally a note or two resembled the lark's. Hawks,
too, are numerous, and might be seen in almost all the
dead trees in pairs. Along the sea coast were to be
seen the marks of their ravages upon the smaller birds.
The sea birds were very numerous on the opposite side of
the island, sitting upon the cliffs or hovering over the isles.
On the western side of the Auckland Island the underbush
and young trees are exceedingly thick."
The Soil, Climate, &c.
159
'Dr. Holmes remarks that he was occupied fully an hour
in making his way for 100 yards, where to all appearance
a human step had never before trodden. There was not a
vestige of a track; old trees were strewn about irregularly,
sometimes kept erect by the pressure from all sides. Some
trees were seen upwards of 70 feet in height, although they
were generally from 15 to 20. Every part of the island
was densely covered with vegetation. The soil, from the
decomposition of vegetable matter, had acquired consider-
able richness. Specimens of all plants were collected;
some resembling the tropical plants were found here.
• These islands have in many places the appearance of
having been raised directly from the sea.
'The whaling season occurs here in the months of April
and May. Near the watering-place a commodious hut has
been erected by a French whaler. Near by there was an-
other in ruins, and close to it the grave of a French sailor,
whose name was inscribed on a wooden cross erected over
Some attempts at forming a garden were observed at
one of the points of Sarah's Bosom; and turnips, cabbages,
and potatoes were growing finely, which, if left undisturbed,
will soon cover this portion of the island: to these a few
onions were added.
C
Many of the small islands in this group were visited.
They closely resemble the larger ones. The cliffs consist
of basalt, and are generally from 50 to 60 feet perpen-
dicular.
'These islands have a picturesque, wild, steep, and
basaltic appearance. The highest peak was estimated to
be 800 feet; the smallest has a less elevation. The
general aspect of the land resembles the region round
Cape Horn.'
CLIMATE.-No very accurate knowledge of the general
climate of the group is as yet acquired, though the full
and exact observations made by Captain Musgrave during
his twenty months' stay are valuable on this head. It has
been supposed to be similar to Chiloe, but in one par-
160
Enderby Island.
ticular the climate differs from that of Chiloe, viz., in the
strong winds which it would appear the islands are subject
to. The trees are evidence of this, as they bend from the
general westerly direction of the violent squalls. Mr.
Enderby experienced one very remarkable phenomenon in
the early part of 1850, at the station in Port Ross. A
most violent gust of wind struck, with the force of a solid
body, the spot near where he was, and this not for any con-
tinued period, or over an extended space, but only for
about five seconds of time, and a few yards in diameter.
After passing onward, the percussion of the repeated
shocks could be heard at short intervals as it went.
was no apparent cause for it, and the intervening spaces
were comparatively calm. This would form an important
consideration with vessels unprepared for such a visitation
when at anchor.
There
THE AUCKLAND GROUP, according to Sir James Ross,
consists of one large and several smaller islands, separated
by narrow channels. The largest island he states to be
about 30 miles long and 15 miles in extreme breadth; but
this cannot be considered as exact. It contains, he con-
tinues, two principal harbours, whose entrances are both
from the eastward, and whose heads or termination reach
within two or three miles of the western coast.
:
Enderby Island is the north-eastern island of the group;
it forms the northern side of the entrance to Laurie Har-
bour, or Port Ross. It was upon this island that the
principal portion of the stock landed by the Whale
Fishery Company was kept. They immediately began
to improve in their new position-an evidence of the good
quality of the land. The island, two or three miles in
length, is capable of sustaining a large quantity of cattle.
It is covered with peaty mould, which is capable of being
rendered very productive. The New Zealanders, who
were established here, raised vegetables, turnips, potatoes,
cabbages, &c.—the first of excellent quality, excelling
most others; the latter equal to any European pro-
Tidal Currents.
161
ductions. This augurs well that other fruits and plants
may flourish. The island is not high, and is well sup-
plied with water.
There is a narrow entrance to Laurie Harbour, between
the west end of Enderby Island and Rose Island, which is
only a channel fit for boats. The sea was breaking right
across the opening when the 'Erebus' passed; but in
calm weather it might be mistaken by strangers for a safe
passage.
As is frequently the case, the tidal currents meet off
Enderby Island, and on this Sir James Ross says:—' On
rounding the north-east cape of Enderby Island, we passed
through some strong whirlpools occasioned by the meeting
of the tides off the Point, and although we did not at first
find soundings with our ordinary hand lines, it is by no
means improbable that some shoals or rocky patches may
have some influence in producing these strong and dan-
gerous eddies.'
LAURIE HARBOUR, or PORT Ross.-Captain Bristow, the
discoverer of these islands, who also drew the first sketch
of the group, named this, the principal harbour, Laurie
Harbour, after the gentleman who first issued this know-
ledge to the world, in 1810. On a chart of the Western
Pacific, by Captain Butler, and published by Mr. Laurie,
this sketch will be found. A copy of this chart, by the
late Mr. Purdy, presented to Captain Hurd, R.N., was
published by the Admiralty in 1823, and these composed.
our entire knowledge of them until the visits of Captain
Sir James Ross and Admiral Dumont D'Urville.
D'Urville has given a rough survey of them, and Captain
Sir James Ross has given a survey of the harbour in ques-
tion, under the name of Rendezvous Harbour; but, fol-
lowing the recognized principle, we have retained the
name applied by its discoverer in 1806. Mr. Enderby has
given a third appellation, that of Port Ross, which, as
may. be in some use, we have also retained.
names are chiefly as given by Captain Bristow.
it
•
The other
M
1
162
The Smaller Islands of the Group.
There are two surveys of this excellent harbour, the one
by Sir James Ross, the other by Admiral D'Urville. That
of the latter is the most complete, and exhibits more in
detail the character of the locality.
The entrance to the harbour is between Enderby Island
on the north side, on which was once a pilot station, and
Green Island, or Ewing Island of Sir James Ross, their
distance apart being little above a mile. Ocean Island is
three-quarters of a mile west of Green Island, and is con-
nected by shoal water to the S.E. point of the harbour.
Rose Island, which forms a continuation of the north side
of the entrance, lies to the N.W. of Ocean Island, and
from between these the harbour runs 2 miles to the S.W.,
having a depth of ten to twenty fathoms over it, and the
shores bold-to.
Deas Head, to the S.W. of Rose Island, is an interest-
ing feature, formed of basaltic columns 300 feet high.
Shoe Island, in the middle of the harbour, and three-
quarters of a mile south, true, of Deas Head, is a bold and
picturesque island; it is highly magnetic, and is bold-to.
Terror Cove is to the west of this, and is separated from
Erebus Cove, to the south of it, by a projecting point of
land.*
Sir James Ross's observatory was in Terror
Cove. In the former charts this is called the Harbour of
Sarah's Bosom,t being thus named by Captain Bristow
when he came here on his second visit in 1807.
anchored here in the Sarah;' hence its appellation. In
his brief account he states that ships may be safely land-
locked all round. Here may be had plenty of fine water,
wood in the greatest abundance, winged game, &c. The
C
He
* By the side of a small stream of water, and on the only cleared spot
we could find, the ruins of a small hut were discovered, which I have
since learnt formed for several years the wretched habitation of a deserter
from an English whale ship and a New Zealand woman.-Sir James Ross.
+ Captain Musgrave, not having any accurate particulars of localities,
in compiling his charts and journal, fell into the error of calling the
Carnley's Harbour' of Morrell by the name of 'Sarah's Bosom.'
Remarkable Oscillation of the Tide. 163
islands are annoyed by the most powerful gales in
winter.'
The result of the observations made by Sir James C.
Ross at Sarah Harbour, or Terror Cove, gave for the cb-
servatory, lat. 50° 32′ 30″ S., long. 166° 12′ 34″ E.; varia-
tion 17° 40′ E.; dip, 73° 12'. High water, full and change,
at 12h.; the highest spring tides scarcely exceed 3 feet.
A remarkable oscillation of the tide, when near the
time of high water, was observed; after rising to nearly
its highest, the tide would fall 2 or 3 inches, and then rise
again between 3 and 4 inches, so as to exceed its former
height rather more than an inch. This irregular move-
ment generally occupied more than an hour, of which the
fall continued about 20 minutes, and the rise 50 minutes
of the interval.*
The establishment of the Southern Whale Fishery Com-
pany was fixed at the south side of Erebus Cove. This
cove is bounded on the south side by a small peninsula
projecting in an E.N.E. direction,† and connected by a
narrow isthmus. This beach allows of easy landing, and
the land, being level, is suitable for the purposes of wharf-
age, whaling stores, &c.
From this part the head of the harbour extends nearly
two miles farther in a W.S.W. direction to its head, into
which a fine and copious stream of fresh water falls. In
its upper part Mr. Enderby found a large and valuable.
bed of cockles, little inferior to oysters. The southern
side of the harbour does not require any particular notice.
The following is Sir James Ross's account of the
harbour :-
'Rendezvous Harbour, which is at the north extreme
of the island, contains several secure anchorages. The
outermost of these, though convenient for stopping at a
short time only, is a small sandy bay on the south side of
* Voyage of Discovery, vol. I., p. 153.
+ Pig Point of Bristow.
M 2
164
Advantages for a Penal Settlement.
Enderby Island, and about one and a half miles from its
N.E. cape.
'It is well protected from all winds except those from
the S.E., and the holding ground is a good tenacious clay.
It is probable that there may be found good anchorage
also to the west of Enderby Island. After passing Ocean
and Rose Islands, a ship may anchor in perfect safety in
any part, but the most convenient will be found to be
between those islands and Erebus Cove, where abundance
of wood and water may be obtained, as also at Terror
Cove.
'The upper end of the inlet, called Laurie Harbour, is
the most suitable for ships wanting to heave down or to
undergo any extensive repairs. It is perfectly land-locked,
and the steep beach on the southern shore affords the
greatest facility for clearing and re-loading the vessel.
'I was so struck with the many advantages this place
possesses for a penal settlement over every other I had
heard named, to which to remove convicts from the now
free colonies of New South Wales, New Zealand, and Van
Dieman's Land, that I addressed a letter on the subject to
Sir John Franklin on my return to Hobart Town, recom-
mending its adoption.
'This letter was forwarded to the Secretary of State for
the Colonies; but I believe Chatham Island, as being
seated in a milder climate, has been preferred, although I
am not aware of any other advantage it possesses, whilst
the want of good harbours will be found a great drawback ;
and the two tribes of New Zealanders, from Port Nichol-
son, who took possession of it in 1835, after eating one
half of the aborigines they found there, and making slaves
of the other half, will prove a difficult people to dispossess
of the land they have gained by conquest.
'Laurie Harbour is well calculated for the location of an
establishment for the prosecution of the whale fishery.
Many black, and several sperm whales, camo into the
6
Observations on the Climate.
165
harbour whilst we were there, and from such a situation
the fishery might be pursued with very great advantage.
We arrived there in the spring of the year, November
being equivalent to the latitude of Hobart Town. We
found a very great difference in the temperature, amount-
ing to about 10° of the thermometer, but still greater to
our feelings, owing to the increased humidity of the atmos-
phere, the temperature of the dew-point being nearly the
same in both places. It cannot, however, be considered
severe, when we remember that in England, which is very
nearly in the same latitude, the mean temperature for
April, the corresponding month, is 46°.* Our stay was
too short to justify any further remarks on the climate of
these islands; but a series of well-conducted observations,
continued for two or three years, could not fail to prove
highly interesting and important to the advancement of
meteorological science.'
Sir James Ross made the islands during a fog, and had
some difficulty in rounding to the northward.
'As we
opened the harbour the squalls came down the western
hills with much violence, threatening to blow us out to sea
again, and it required the utmost vigilance and activity of
the officers and crew in beating up at times to maintain
the ground we had gained. There is, however, ample
space, and no concealed dangers. The belts of sea-weed
which line the shore and rocks point out the shallow or
dangerous parts. After five hours of hard contending
with the fierce westerly squalls, we anchored at 1 P.M.,
November 20th, 1840, in a small cove on the west shore,
in 10 fathoms.'
Captain Wilkes says- The harbour of Sarah's Bosom
is not the most secure. That of Laurie's is protected from
all winds, and has a large and fine streamlet of water at
its head. The rocks are covered with limpets, and small
*At the Auckland Islands, during Ross's stay, the average temperature
was 45° 27'.
166
Adantages of Laurie Harbour.
fish of many varieties are caught in quantities among the
kelp. The crew enjoyed themselves on chowders and
fries. No geese were seen, and the only game observed
were a few grey ducks, snipe, cormorants, and the common
shag. The land birds are excellent eating, especially the
hawks. On the whole, it is a very desirable place in which
to refit.'
Some officers of the French expedition, under Admiral
D'Urville, made a boat excursion to Laurie Harbour.
They thus speak of that part of the east coast lying
between the two harbours :-
These banks are very full of fish. The bottom is
regular, varying from fifteen to twenty fathoms. The
coast is indented with numerous creeks, surrounded by
basaltic rocks, where boats can easily approach.'
'If ever,' says M. Dubouzet, one of the French officers,
in his journal, 'the fine harbours of these islands should
attract colonists thither, Laurie Harbour would be the
most suitable point for the site of a town.'
Another, M. Jacquinot, says—' The vast bay is encircled
everywhere by elevated land, clothed with trees from the
sea-board to the summit. The soil, of volcanic formation,
is covered with a thick layer of vegetable débris, producing
a vigorous growth of large ferns.'
The eastern side of the island is but little known as yet.
From the chart by Admiral D'Urville, it has several most
excellent harbours, a fact confirmed during some of the
visits made by Mr. Enderby. That one will be found
superior to Laurie Harbour is not likely, but they may
prove of great service. One of them was named Chapel
Bay, from a rock, the form of which gave its appellation,
near its entrance.
ADAM ISLAND appears on Bristow's Chart, and to the
northward of it must be Carnley's Harbour, of Captain
Morrell (the Sarah's Bosom of Captain Musgrave).
CARNLEY'S HARBOUR makes in about four miles to the
eastward of the South Cape, and the entrance is formed by
Carnley's Harbour.
167
two bluff points, from which, to the head of the lagoon, the
distance is fifteen miles. The passage is above two miles
wide, and entirely free from danger, within twenty-five
fathoms of each shore.
'It runs in first N.N.W., then N.N.E., forming at the
head of the lagoon a beautiful basin, with sufficient room
for half a dozen ships to moor; the least water from the
entrance, until we came near the anchorage, was twenty-
five fathoms mid-channel. We anchored in four fathoms,
clay ground.
'The western side of this island is a perpendicular,
bluff, iron-bound coast, with deep water within 100 fathoms
of the shore, while the eastern coast is principally lined
with a pebbly or sandy beach,* behind which are extensive
level plains, covered with beautiful grass and refreshing
verdure, extending back about five miles, and then rising
into elevated hills.
All the hills, except a few of the highest, are thickly
covered with lofty trees, flourishing with such extraor-
dinary vigour as to afford a magnificent prospect for the
spectator.
'The large trees are principally of two sorts; one of
them is of the size of our large firs, and grows nearly in
the same manner: its foliage is an excellent substitute for
spruce in making that pleasant and wholesome beverage,
spruce-beer.
The other resembles our maple, and often
grows to a great size, but is only fit for ship-building or
fuel, being too heavy for masts or spars of any dimensions.
The quality of the soil in this island is sufficiently
indicated by the uniform luxuriance of all its productions.
Were the forest cleared away, very few spots would be
found that could not be converted to excellent pasturage or
tillage land.
The valleys, plains, hill sides, and every spot where
* This description entirely agrees with the accounts of D'Urville and
his officers.
168 Remarkable Natural Pyramids or Columns.
the rays of the sun can penetrate, are now clothed with a
strong, heavy, luxuriant grass, interspersed with many
natural specimens of the countless beauties of Nature's
vegetable kingdom. This extraordinary strength of vege-
tation is, no doubt, greatly assisted by the agreeable tem-
perature of the climate, which is very fine.
The climate is mild, temperate, and salubrious. I have
been told by men of the first respectability and talent, who
have visited the island in the month of July--the dead of
winter in this island, corresponding to our January—that
the weather was mild as respects cold, as the mercury was
never lower than 38° in the valleys, and the trees at the
same time retained their verdure as if it was midsummer.
I have no doubt but that the foliage of many of the trees
remains until pushed off in the following spring by the new
crop of buds and leaves.
At the time we were there the mercury seldom rose
higher than 78°, although it answered to our July. The
weather is generally good at all seasons of the year, not-
withstanding there are occasional high winds, attended
with heavy rains.'*
The WESTERN side of the Island, according to Captain
Bristow, is very high and precipitous, and may be seen, in
clear weather, 16 or 17 leagues off. Towards the northern
part are two remarkable natural pyramids or columns,
called the Column Rocks.†
The N.W. Cape is a very remarkable headland, with a
rocky islet, and a curious conical rock just off it. Just to
the east of it is a dark-looking promontory, called Black
Head, with a deep cavernous indentation at its base. This
was afterwards found to be only a short distance from the
westernmost part of Laurie Harbour. It was reached
by Mr. McCormick, and some other officers from the
'Erebus' and 'Terror,' by following the stream which
* Narrative of Four Voyages, by Capt. B. Morrell, 28th Dec., 1829.
+ Purdy's Tables, p. 89.
Campbell Island.
169
empties itself into the head of the harbour, and whose
source is in the hills above Black Head. These hills are
from 800 to 900 feet high.*
DISAPPOINTMENT ISLAND lies off the western side of the
Island, and is shown on Bristow's Chart.
BRISTOW ROCK, which must be very dangerous, is also
given from the same author as lying 8 miles north of
Enderby Island, and is just even with the water's edge.
It was not seen by Sir James Ross, and therefore requires
great caution.
CAMPBELL ISLAND.-This island was discovered by
Captain Fred. Hazelburgh, of the brig Perseverance,' be-
longing to Mr. Robert Campbell, of Sydney, in 1810.
According to his account the island is 30 miles in circum-
ference, the country is mountainous, and there are several
good harbours, of which two on the east side are to be
preferred. The southernmost of these two he named
Perseverance Harbour, and in it Sir James Ross anchored
in the 'Erebus' and 'Terror,' December, 1840.
The highest hill seen from the harbour is on its north
side, and has an elevation of 1,500 feet.
The shores on either side are steep, and rise abruptly
to between 800 and 900 feet. The hills, from being less
wooded, have a more desolate appearance than those of the
Auckland Islands; and though there is abundance of wood
in the sheltered places, the trees are nowhere so great as
in those islands. These trees especially indicate, by their
prostrate position, the prevailing power of the westerly
storms. This occurrence of sudden and violent rushes of
wind is a remarkable characteristic phenomenon of all the
islands about this latitude. This is observed at Kerguelen
Land, at the Aucklands, and especially here.
Sir James Ross had been advised, when at Hobart
Town, to take his ships into the harbour near the north-
east point, but, from the entrance, it appeared so exposed
* Sir James Ross.
170
Perseverance Harbour (Campbell Island).
to winds from that quarter that he bore away for the
southern harbour.
Perseverance Harbour is about four miles in depth, run-
ning for more than two miles in a W.N.W. direction, and
thence, after passing a shoal point, with a warning bed of
sea-weed off it, on which the 'Terror' grounded, about
W.S.W. to its head. In the outer part of the harbour the
water is too deep for convenient anchorage, but in the
upper part, which is completely land-locked, there is
abundant room for a hundred ships to lie in the most per-
fect security, and excellent water can be had in any
quantity. The remains of some huts were found on each
side of a cove, to the north of the 'Erebus' anchorage, as
also the graves of several seamen, and one of a French
woman, accidentally drowned. There had been also an
establishment at the side of a stream in the north-west
corner of the harbour, but the position was not so good as
that of the cove. The observation spot on the beach, near
the shoal point, was found to be in lat. 52° 33′ 26″ S., and
long. 169° 8′ 41″ E.; variation, 17° 54′, E.; mag. dip.
73° 53′. High water, full and change, at 12 h., but pre-
senting the same irregularities as at Laurie Harbour,
Auckland Isles. The rise and fall at neaps was 43 inches.*
* Sir James C. Ross: Voyage of Discovery, &c., vol. I., pp. 154 et seq.
A detailed account of its productions will there be found.
III.
THE LOSS OF THE 'INVERCAULD.'
Letter from Captain Dalgarno.
CAPTAIN DALGARNO, writing from Southampton to the
owners, says :-'I am at last offered another opportunity
of addressing you again in this life, to let you know the
sad tidings of the ship "Invercauld," which became a total
wreck during the night of May 10, 1864, on the island of
Auckland, off New Zealand, during a heavy gale of wind
from the northward and thick weather. In about twenty
minutes after striking she was in atoms-so heavy was the
sea running, and all rocks where the disaster happened.
The boys Middleton and Wilson and four seamen were
drowned; the remainder, nineteen of us, getting washed
on shore, through the wreck, all more or less hurt, the
night being intensely dark and cold. We saved nothing
but what we had on our persons; and before being washed
from the wreck I hove off my sea-boots, so as to enable
me, if possible, to reach the shore. After getting ashore
amongst the rocks, we called upon each other, and all
crept as close together as we could, to keep ourselves
warm. The spray from the sea reaching us made it one of
the most dismal nights ever anyone suffered, and we were
all glad when day broke on the following morning, when
all who were able went towards the wreck to see what
could be saved. All we found was about 2 lbs. of biscuit,
and 3 lbs. of pork-the only food we had to divide amongst
nineteen; and after all taking about a mouthful each, we
172
The Loss of the `Invercauld.'
went and collected a few of the most suitable pieces from
the wreck to make a sort of hut to cover us from the
weather, where we made a fire, the steward having saved
a box of matches.
'I have seen and suffered more since the disaster happened
than I can pen to you at this time; but if God spares me
to reach you, I will then give you all particulars. We
remained four days at the wreck; and, having no more
food, nor appearance of getting any more at the wreck,
we proceeded to go on the top of the island, to see if we
could find food or any inhabitants. It was no easy matter
to reach the top, it being about 2,000 feet high, and almost
perpendicular. When we got there we found no inhabi-
tants; and the only food we found was wild roots that
grew on the island, of which we ate, and fresh water. At
night we made a covering of boughs, and, lighting a fire,
crept as close together as possible. On the following
morning we made towards a bay that was on the east side,
which occupied some days, the scrub being so heavy to
walk amongst. The cook and three seamen died during
this time, and all of us were getting very weak for want
of food and from cold. At length we reached the bay,
where we found some limpets on the rocks, of which we
ate heartily. We also caught two seals, and found them
good food; and had we got plenty of them no doubt all
would have lived. After living three months upon limpets,
they got done, and all we had again was the roots and
water, seeing no more seals.
'By the end of August the only survivors were myself,
the mate, and Robert Holding, seaman; the carpenter, and
the boys Liddle and Lancefield, being among the last that
died-all very much reduced.
much reduced. After we three had lingered
for twelve months and ten days, we were at last relieved
by the Portuguese ship "Julian," from Macao for Callao,
with Chinese passengers. She sprang a leak off here, and
sent a boat on shore to see if they could get their ship
repaired, when they found us the only inhabitants on the
6
The Loss of the Invercauld.'
173
island. They proceeded on their passage to Callao, taking
us three along with them. We were all treated kindly,
and on the 28th June reached Callao, where we were all
treated kindly by the people there. On the same evening
I sailed by the mail steamer for England, leaving the mate
and the seaman in Callao. On the 6th July I sailed from
Panama; on the 13th arrived at St. Thomas, and sailed
same day for Southampton by the steamship "Shannon,"
meeting with the greatest kindness from all on board the
several ships I sailed in.'
Note by the Publishers.
The following additional particulars of the loss of the
Invercauld, and the adventures of the survivors, taken
from the Melbourne Illustrated Post of the 25th October,
will no doubt be acceptable here, though involving to some
extent a repetition of the above :—
"Information has been received by way of England, of
the wreck, on the Auckland Islands, of the ship Invercauld,
a vessel of 888 tons, Captain George Dalgarno, which
sailed from Melbourne for Callao, in ballast, on the 28th
of April, 1864. The circumstances attending the wreck of
the Invercauld are of a peculiarly painful nature, and such
as are likely to excite in the minds of this community
more than ordinary interest, while the details of the
narrative furnished by Captain Musgrave, of the schooner
Grafton, containing so harrowing an account of the
miseries and privations endured by himself and his ship-
wrecked crew on that barren and desolate isle, are so
fresh in the memories of the inhabitants of this colony.
The Invercauld carried no passengers, and her crew con-
sisted (with the captain) of 25 persons. Mitchell's Mari-
time Register of the 5th of August has the following with
reference to the disaster:-
"The Invercauld, Captain Dalgarno, from Melbourne to
174
The Loss of the 'Invercauld.'
Callao, struck, 10th May, 1864, on the north-west end of
the island of Auckland, lat. 53° S., long. 106° E., and went
to pieces. Six of the crew were drowned and 19 were
washed ashore, of whom the captain, Mr. Andrew Smith,
the chief officer, and a seaman named Robert Holding
were rescued 12 months and 10 days after.' The saved
portion of the crew subsisted together on the island for
some time, but through the dreadful scarcity of food the
members were speedily reduced by death caused by starva-
tion, until at length only the three survivors remained.
They were ultimately rescued from their fearful position
by a Portuguese vessel sailing past the island, and in it
conveyed to Callao, whence they proceeded to England.
Captain Dalgarno has furnished to his owners a complete
narrative of the wreck, with a most interesting history of
the residence of himself and his companions on the Auck-
land Islands. They must have been on the island at the
same time as Captain Musgrave, and no doubt the smoke
seen at a distance by this gentleman must have proceeded
from the camp of the castaways belonging to the Invercauld.
The dead body, and the slate containing some obliterated
writing, also discovered by Captain Musgrave, may have
belonged to this party, but such was the inaccessible nature
of the country that a complete search could not be made
on that occasion. Captain Dalgarno, with his mate and
Holding, the seaman, met with a most cordial reception at
Callao, where the greatest kindness was extended towards
them."
THE END.
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WALKS AND TALKS ABOUT LONDON.
By JOHN TIMBS, F.S.A.
Author of "Curiosities of London," " Things not Generally Known," etc.
CONTENTS.
1. ABOUT OLD LYON'S INN, STRAND. 2. LAST DAYS OF DOWNING
STREET. 3. WALKS AND TALKS IN VAUXHALL GARDENS. 4. LAST OF
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HALL TO CAMPDEN HOUSE. 7. TALK ABOUT THE TEMPLE, PAST AND
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FISHMONGERS' HALL. 10. A MORNING IN SIR JOHN SOANE'S MUSEUM.
11. A SITE OF SPECULATION. 12. CHANGES IN COVENT GARDEN. 13.
་
THE LAST OF THE FLEET PRISON. 14. FORTY YEARS IN FLEET STREET.
15. CHANGES AT CHARING CROSS. 16. RAILWAY LONDON. 17. BLACK-
FRIARS BRIDGE, 18. RAISING OF HOLBORN VALLEY. 19. AN OLD
TAVERN IN ST. JAMES'S.
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book of chatty perambulations.”—Reader.
"In this new and exceedingly pleasant book of Mr. Timbs's, reference
is made to the varied aspects under which London appears, and to its being
a subject which is always new; while it seeks to show what has been lost
or gained by modern change, the volume is crammed with pleasant gossip
about persons, places, and events connected with London."-City Press.
London: LOCKWOOD & CO., 7 Stationers' Hall Court, Ludgate Hill.
A LIST
OF
POPULAR WORKS
PUBLISHED BY
LOCKWOOD & CO.
7 STATIONERS'-HALL COURT, LONDON, E.C.
The Boy's Own Book: A Complete Encyclopædia of all
the Diversions, Athletic, Scientific, and Recreative, of Boyhood and
Youth. With many hundred Woodcuts, and Ten Vignette Titles,
beautifully printed in Gold. New Edition, greatly enlarged and im-
proved, price 8s. 6d. handsomely bound in cloth.
N.B. This is the original and genuine 'Boy's Own Book,' formerly published by
Mr. Bogue, and more recently by Messrs. Kent and Co. Care should be taken, in
ordering the above, to give the name of either the former or present publishers,
otherwise some inferior book, with a nearly similar title, may be supplied.
The Little Boy's Own Book of Sports and Pastimes.
With numerous engravings. Abridged from the above. 16mo. price
3s. 6d. cloth.
Merry Tales for Little Folk. Illustrated with more
than 200 Pictures. Edited by MADAME DE CHATELAIN. 16mo.
3s. 6d. cloth elegant. Contents:-The House that Jack Built-Little
Bo-Peep-The Old Woman and Her Eggs-Old Mother Goose-The
Death and Burial of Cock Robin-Old Mother Hubbard-Henny
Penny-The Three Bears-The Ugly Little Duck-The White Cat
-The Charmed Fawn-The Eleven Wild Swans-The Blue Bird-
Little Maia-Jack the Giant Killer-Jack and the Bean Stalk-Sir
Guy of Warwick-Tom Hickathrift, the Conqueror-Bold Robin
Hood-Tom Thumb-Puss in Boots-Little Red Riding-Hood-
Little Dame Crump-Little Goody Two Shoes-The Sleeping Beauty
in the Wood-The Fair One with Golden Locks-Beauty and the
Beast-Cinderella; or, the Little Glass Slipper-Princess Rosetta-
The Elves of the Fairy Forest-The Elfin Plough-The Nine Moun-
tains-Johnny and Lisbeth-The Little Fisher-Boy-Hans in Luck
-The Giant and the Brave Little Tailor-Peter the Goatherd-Red
Jacket; or, the Nose Tree-The Three Golden Hairs-The Jow in
the Bramble Bush.
Victorian Enigmas; being a Series of Enigmatical
Acrostics on Historical, Biographical, Geographical, and Miscel-
laneous Subjects; combining Amusement with Exercise in the
Attainment of Knowledge. Promoted and encouraged by Royal
Example. By CHARLOTTE ELIZA CAPEL. Royal 16mo. cloth,
elegantly printed, price 2s. 6d.
The idea for this entirely original style of Enigmas is taken from one said to
have been written by Her Majesty for the Royal children, which, with its Solution,
is given.
A capital game, and one of the very best of those commendable mental exercises
which test knowledge and stimulate study. To the Queen's loyal subjects it
comes, moreover, additionally recommended by the hint in the title-page and the
statement in the preface, that it is a game practised by Her Majesty and the Royal
children, if indeed it were not invented by the Queen herself.'-CuITIC.
A good book for family circles in the long and dreary winter evenings, inasmuch
as it will enable the young to pass them away both pleasantly and profitably.'
CITY PRESS,
2
<
Lockwood and Co.'s
JOHN TIMBS'S POPULAR WORKS.
Any one who reads and remembers Mr. Timbs's encyclopaedic varieties should
ever after be a good table talker, an excellent companion for children, a "well-read
person," and a proficient lecturer.'—ATHENÆUM.
<
Things Not Generally Known. By JOHN TIMBS,
F.S.A. Editor of The Year Book of Facts,' &c. In Six Volumes,
fcp. cloth, 15s.; or, the Six Volumes bound in Three, cloth gilt, or
half-bound, 15s.; cloth, gilt edges, 16s. 6d. Contents:-General In-
formation, 2 Vols.-Curiosities of Science, 2 Vols.-Curiosities of
History, 1 Vol.-Popular Errors Explained, 1 Vol.
**The Volumes sold separately, as follows:-
Things Not Generally Known Familiarly Explained.
(General Information). 2 Vols. 2s. 6d. each, or in 1 Vol. 5s. cloth.
' A remarkably pleasant and instructive little book; a book as full of information
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A very amusing miscellany.'-GENTLEMAN'S MAGAZINE.
'And as instructive as it is amusing.'-NOTES AND QUERIES.
Curiosities of Science,
of Science, Past and Present. 2 2 Vols.
2s. 6d. each, or in 1 Vol. 5s. cloth.
""Curiosities of Science" contains as much information as could otherwise be
gleaned from reading elaborate treatises on physical phenomena, acou-tics, optics,
astronomy, geology, and palæontology, meteorology, nautical geography, mag-
netism, the electric telegraph, &c.'-MINING JOURNAL.
Curiosities of History. Fcp. 2s. 6d. cloth; or, with
<
Popular Errors,' In 1 Vol. 5s. cloth.
'We can conceive no more amusing book for the drawing-room, or one more
useful for the school-room.'-ART JOURNAL.
Popular Errors Explained and Illustrated. Fcp.
2s. 6d. cloth; or, with Curiosities of History,' in 1 Vol. 5s. cloth.
"We know of few better books for young persons; it is instructive, entertaining,
and reliable.'-BUILDer.
A work which ninety-nine persons out of every hundred would take up when-
ever it came in their way, and would always learn something from.'
ENGLISH CHURCHMAN.
Knowledge for the Time: a Manual of Reading,
Reference, and Conversation on Subjects of Living Interest.
Contents:-Historico-Political Information-Progress of Civiliza-
tion-Dignities and Distinctions-Changes in Laws-Measure and
Value-Progress of Science-Life and Health-Religious Thought.
Illustrated from the best and latest Authorities. By JOHN TIMBS,
F.S.A. Small 8vo. with Frontispiece, 5s. cloth.
'It is impossible to open the volume without coming upon some matter of
interest upon which light is thrown.'-MORNING POST.
We welcome this attempt to preserve the bright bits and the hidden treasures
of contemporary history. It is with keen pleasure we bear in mind that this
learned collector's eye watches our journalism and the daily utterance of scholars,
determined that no truth shall be lost.'-LLOYD'S NEWS.
Stories of Inventors and Discoverers in Science and
Useful Arts. By JoHN TIMBS, F.S.A. Second Edition. With
numerous Illustrations. Fcap. 5s. cloth.
'Another interesting and well-collected book, ranging from Archimedes and
Roger Bacon to the Stephensons.'-ATHENÆUM.
These stories by Mr. Timbs are as marvellous as the Arabian Nights' Entertain-
ments, and are wrought into a volume of great interest and worth.'-ATLAS.
Catalogue of Popular Works.
JOHN TIMBS'S POPULAR WORKS—continued.
Walks and Talks About London.
3
By
BY JOHN TIMES,
F.S.A., Author of 'Curiosities of London,' Things not Generally
Known,' &c. Contents:-About Old Lyons Inn-Last Days of
Downing Street-Walks and Talks in Vauxhall Gardens-Last of
the Old Bridewell-The Fair of May Fair-From Hicks's Hall to
Campden House-Talk about the Temple-Recollections of Sir
Richard Phillips-Curiosities of Fishmongers' Hall-A Morning
in Sir John Soane's Museum-A Site of Speculation-Changes in
Covent Garden-Last of the Fleet Prison-Forty Years in Fleet
Strect-Changes at Charing Cross - Railway_London-Blackfriars
Bridge Raising of Holborn Valley-An Old Tavern in St. James's.
With Frontispiece, post 8vo. cloth gilt, 8s 6d.
'The London of the last generation is, day by day, being rent away from the sight
of the present, and it is well that Mr. Timbs is inclined to walk and talk about it
ere it vanishes altogether, and leaves the next generation at a loss to understand
the past history of the metropolis so far as it has a local colouring, as so very much
of it has. Much of this has now gone for ever, but our author has watched the de-
structive course of the "improver," and thanks to his industry, many a memory
that we would not willingly let die, is consigned to the keeping of the printed page,
which in this instance, as in so many others, will doubtless prove a more lusting re-
cord than brass or marble.'-GENTLEMAN'S MAGAZINE.
Things to be Remembered in Daily Life.
<
With
Personal Experiences and Recollections. By JOHN TIMBS. F.S.A.,
Author of Things not Generally Known,' &c. &c. With Frontis-
piece. Fcp. 3s. 6d. cloth.
'While Mr. Timbs claims for this volume the merit of being more reflective
than its predecessors, those who read it will add to that merit-that it is equally
instructive.'-NOTES AND QUERIES.
•
46
No portion of this book is without value, and several biographical sketches
which it contains are of great interest.
Things to be Remembered in Daily
Life" is a valuable and memorable book, and represents great research, and con-
siderable and arduous labour.'-MORNING POST.
'Mr. Timbs's personal experiences and recollections are peculiarly valuable, as
embodying the observations of an acute, intelligent, and cultivated mind. "Things
to be Remembered " carries with it an air of vitality which augurs well for per-
petuation.'-Observer.
School-days of Eminent Men. Containing Sketches
of the Progress of Education in England, from the Reign of King
Alfred to that of Queen Victoria; and School and College Lives of
the most celebrated British Authors, Poets, and Philosophers;
Inventors and Discoverers; Divines, Heroes, Statesmen, and Legis-
lators. By JOHN TIMBS, F.S.A. Second Edition, entirely revised
and partly re-written. With a Frontispiece by John Gilbert,
13 Views of Public Schools, and 20 Portraits by Harvey. Fcap. 5s.
handsomely bound in cloth.
Extensively used, and specially adapted for a Prize-Book at Schools.
The idea is a happy one, and its execution equally so. It is a book to interest all
boys, but more especially those of Westminster, Eton, Harrow, Rugby, and Win-
chester; for of these, as of many other schools of high repute, the accounts are full
and interesting.'-NOTES AND QUERIES.
Something for Everybody; and a Garland for the
<
Year. By JOHN TIMBS, F.S.A., Author of Things Not Generally
Known,' &c. With a Coloured Title, post 8vo. 5s. cloth.
This volume abounds with diverting and suggestive extracts. It seems to us
particularly well adapted for parochial lending libraries.'-SATURDAY REVIEW,
Full of odd, quaint, out-of-the-way bits of information upon all imaginable
subjects is this amusing volume, wherein Mr. Timbs discourses upon domestic, rural,
metropolitan, and social life; interesting nooks of English localities: time-honoured
customs and old-world observances; and, we need hardly add, Mr. Timbs discourses
well and pleasantly upon all.'-NOTES ANd Queries, July 20, 1861.
4
Lockwood and Co.'s
A SERIES OF ELEGANT GIFT-BOOKS.
Truths Illustrated by Great Authors; A Dictionary
of nearly Four Thousand Aids to Reflection, Quotations of Maxims,
Metaphors, Counsels, Cautions, Proverbs, Aphorisms, &c. &c.
Prose and Verse. Compiled from the Great Writers of all Ages
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In
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'We accept the treasure with profound gratitude-it should find its way to every
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• We know of no better book of its kind.'-EXAMiner.
The Philosophy of William Shakespeare; delineating,
•
in Seven Hundred and Fifty Passages selected from his Plays, the
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The Beauty of Holiness; or, The Practical Christian's
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4 Every part of the Sacred Writings deserves our deepest attention and research,
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Events to be Remembered in the History of England.
Forming a Series of interesting Narratives, extracted from the Pages
of Contemporary Chronicles or Modern Historians, of the most Re-
markable Occurrences in earh Reign; with Reviews of the Manners,
Domestic Habits, Amusements, Costumes, &c. &c., of the People,
Chronological Table, &c. By CHARLES SELBY. Twenty-fifth
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De Great care has been taken to render this book unobjectionable to the most
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Catalogue of Popular Works.
BOOKS FOR NURSERY OR MATERNAL
TUITION.
5
The First or Mother's Dictionary. By Mrs. JAMESON
(formerly Mrs. MURPHY). Tenth Edition. 18mo. 2s. 6d. cloth.
** Common expletives, the names of familiar objects, technical terms and
words, the knowledge of which would be useless to children, or which could not
well be explained in a manner adapted to the infant capacity, have been entirely
omitted. Most of the definitions are short enough to be committed to memory; or
they may be read over, a page or two at a time, till the whole are sufficiently im-
pressed on the mind. It will be found of advantage if the little pupils be taught to
look out for themselves any word they may meet with, the meaning of which they
do not distinctly comprehend.
School-Room Lyrics. Compiled and Edited by
ANNE KNIGHT. New Edition. 18mo. 1s. cloth.
La Bagatelle; intended to introduce Children of five
or six years old to some knowledge of the French Language. Re-
vised by Madame N. L. New Edition, with entirely New Cuts.
18mo. 2s. 6d. bound.
This little work has undergone a most careful revision. The orthography has
been modernized, and entirely new woodcuts substituted for the old ones. It is now
offered to parents and others engaged in the education of young children, as well
adapted for familiarizing their pupils with the construction and sounds of the
French language, conveying at the same time excellent moral lessons.
'A very nice book to be placed in the hands of children; likely to command
their attention by its beautiful embellishments.'-PAPERS FOR THE SCHOOLMASTER.
'A well-known little book, revised, improved, and adorned with some very pretty
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THE SCHOOL AND THE TEACHER.
Chickseed without Chickweed: being very Easy and
Entertaining Lessons for Little Children. In Three Parts.__Part I.
in words of three letters. Part II. in words of four letters. Part III.
in words of five or more letters. New Edition, with beautiful
Frontispiece by Anelay, 12mo. 1s. cloth.
A book for every mother.
Peter Parley's Book of Poetry.
With numerous
Engravings New Edition, revised, with Additions, 16mo. 1s. 6d.
cloth.
This little volume consists, in part, of extracts from various publications, and in
part of original articles written for it. It is designed to embrace a variety of pieces,
some grave, and some gay; some calculated to amuse, and some to instruct; some
designed to store the youthful imagination with gentle and pleasing images; some
to enrich the mind with useful knowledge; some to impress the heart with scnti-
ments of love, meekness, truth, gentleness, and kindness.
Cobwebs to Catch Flies; or Dialogues in short sen-
tences. Adapted for Children from the age of three to eight years.
In Two Parts. Part I. Easy Lessons in words of three, four, five,
and six letters, suited to children from three to five years of age.
Part II. Short Stories for Children from five to eight years of age.
12mo. 2s.cloth gilt.
**The Parts are sold separately, price 1s. cach.
5
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DELAMOTTE'S WORKS
ON ILLUMINATION, ALPHABETS, &c.
A Primer of the Art of Illumination, for the use of
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Directions for its Exercise, and numerous Examples taken from
Illuminated MSS., and beautifully printed in gold and colours. By
F. DELAMOTTE. Small 4to. price 9s. cloth antique.
¿
A handy book, beautifully illustrated; the text of which is well written, and
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student, which, with much good sense, the author chooses from collections accessible
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The Book of Ornamental Alphabets, Ancient and
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Examples of Modern Alphabets, Plain and Ornamen-
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Catalogue of Popular Works.
7
The Fables of Babrius. Translated into English Verse
from the Text of Sir G. Cornewall Lewis. By the Rev. JAMES
DAVIES, of Lincoln Coll. Oxford. Fcap. 6s. cloth antique.
"Who was Babrius ?" The reply may not improbably startle the reader.
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juvenile libraries.'-HEREFORD TIMES.
NEW ANECDOTE LIBRARY.
Good Things for Railway Readers. 1000 Anecdotes,
Original and Selected. By the Editor of The Railway Anecdote-
book.' Large type, crown 8vo. with Frontispiece, 2s. 6d.
"
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readers.'-READER.
Just the thing for railway readers.'-LONDON REVIEW.
Fresh, racy, and original.'-JOHN BULL.
'An almost interminable source of amusement, and a ready means of rendering
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Invaluable to the diner-out.'-ILLUSTRATED TIMES.
Sidney Grey: a Tale of School Life. By the Author
of Mia and Charlie.' Second Edition, with six beautiful Illustra-
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4
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Catalogue of Popular Works.
WORKS BY THE AUTHOR OF 'A TRAP
TO CATCH A SUNBEAM.'
9
'In telling a simple story, and in the management of dialogue, the Author is
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Just published, in a closely-printed Volume, in a clear and legible type,
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It is, in fact, a compendium of modern husbandry, embracing a concise account
of all the leading improvements of the day.'-NEW SPORTING MAGAZINE.
The Lessons of My Farm: A Book for
Book for Amateur
Agriculturists; being an Introduction to Farm Practice in the
Culture of Crops, the Feeding of Cattle, Management of the Dairy,
Poultry, Pigs, and in the Keeping of Farm-work Records. By
ROBERT SCOTT BURN, Editor of The Year-Book of Agricultural
Facts,' and one of the Authors of Book of Farm Implements and
Machines,' and Book of Farm Buildings.' With numerous Illus-
trations, fep. 6s, cloth.
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'A very useful little book, written in the lively style which will attract the amateur
class to whom it is dedicated, and contains much sound advice and accurate descrip-
tion.'
ATHENEUM.
We are sure the book will meet with a ready sale, and the more that there are
many hints in it which even old furmers need not be ashamed to accept.'
MORNING HERALD.
A most complete introduction to the whole round of farming practice. We
believe there are many among us whose love of farming will make them welcome
such a companion as this little book in which the author gives us his own expe-
riences, which are worth a great deal.'-JOHN BULL.
'Never did book exercise a more salutary effect than "My Farm of Four Acres."
Mr. Burn has followed suit in a very practical and pleasant little work.'
ILLUSTRATED LONDON NEWS.
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., PRINTERS MEW-STREET SQUARE, LONDON