º º º º º º -- |- | ， £Z */0. / /º/, №.|- . \，\！ §. ſae\, |× º 4/ ſ. |- |× A/ TRAVELS - ON As NLAND voyage - THROUGH THE STATES OF NEW-YORK, PENNSYLVANIA, VIRGINJA, OHIO, KENTUCKY AND TENNESSEE, AND THROUGH THE TERRITORIES OF INDIANA, Louisiana, mississippi and New-orieans, PERFORMED. . IN THE YEARS 1807 AND 1808, - INCLUDING A TOUR OF NEARLY SIX. Thousand ºries. WITH MAPS AND PLATEs. - º - - º - - BY CHRISTIAN SCHULTZ, JUN, ESQ º IN TWO VOLUMES…VOL. I. NEW YORK : Printed by Isaac Riley 1810. DISTRICT OF NEW-YORK, ss, E IT REMEMBERED, That on the twentieth day of March, in the thirty-fourth year of the Independence of the United States of America, is AAc RILEY, of the said district, hath deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as proprietor, in the words and figures following, to wit: “Travels on an Inland Voyage through the States of New-York, Penn- “sylvania, Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky and Tennessee, and through the “Territories of Indiana, Louisiana, Mississippi and New-Orleans; per- “formed in the years 1807 and 1808; including a tour of nearly six thou- “sand miles. With Maps and Plates. By Christian Schultz, Jun, Esq. * In two Volumes. Volume I” - IN conform try to the act of the Congress of the United States, en- titled, “An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies * of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such * copies, during the times therein mentioned;” and also to an act, entitled, “An act, supplementary to an act, entitled, an act for the encouragement * of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the ** authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein men- *tioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, en: * graving and etching historical and other prints.” - - CHARLES CLINTON, Glerk of the District of New-York. º º º – * * - º - - PREFACE. - - THE following letters were not originally intended for the eye of the public, but were written rather as a means of recreation to the author, and of amusement to his par- ticular friend. Nor does he now, but with the greatest diffidence, and after repeated solicitations, consent to their being made public. From the earliest information he had acquired respect- it has always been a favourite object with him, at some time or other, to undertake this voyage, as well to view the cele- brated cataracts of Niagara, as to acquire a personal know- ledge of the country. - Although yet young in life, he has always been accus- tomed to combine pleasure with profit; and had not some and speculations required his presence in that country, in all probability this voyage had still remained to be per- formed. - The route is generally known, yet, strange as it may ap- pear, no correct information could be obtained as to the distances, mode of travelling, the time required, the ex- penses incurred, nor of the risks and dangers to be encoun- tered. These inquiries have been particularly attended to ; and the minuteness and fidelity with which they will be found to be answered, is perhaps the only merit to which he can lay claim. º - The Map of the United States, including the whole of Louisiana, is intended to shew at one view the principal rivers and towns of the interior, with the relative situation ing the geographical situation of the route he has travelled, iy of the chief rivers, towns and cities on the sea-coast. It is not, therefore, crowded with names and boundary lines. - The Maps of the route from New York to Pittsburgh, from Pittsburgh to the mouth of the Ohio, and from the Ohio to the Gulf of Mexico, are all corrected from obser- vation and experience. The latitudes of most of the prin- cipal points are quoted from actual observations, a few from their distances and bearings by the compass. The maps may be considered as more correct than any yet published. The author will not conceal that an additional motive for consenting to the publication of these letters, was the peru- sal of a volume lately published, entitled, “ Travels in * America, by Thomas Ash, Esq.” purporting to be a part of the same route which he has travelled. From a careful examination of this work, which is found to abound in mis- takes, misrepresentations and fictions, in almost every page; the author does not hesitate to declare, that in his opinion the whole is a com/liſation, taken principally from “ The * Pittsburgh Wavigator;” nor does he believe that any such person ever travelled the route pretended to be described. Out of a hundred instances which might be recited, the following is selected, as conclusive evidence of the English traveller's ignorance of the geography of the river Ohio, which he pretends to have descended, viz. The day preceding his arrival at Marietta, he “ perceived * a fall in the river, and that the current wore through it * In the form of a Z. The channel was very little broader “ than the boat, confined between rocks, the slightest touch º against which would dash her to pieces. I ordered the - * This author, among other falsities, informs us he understood, while at Pittsburgh, that a work was preparing for the press, called the “Pittsburgh Navigator.” The truth is that little work had been published nearly two years ; and the writer of “ Ash’s Tra. vels” must have been in possession of a copy, as the whole is found. interspersed through his work, verbatim a ſigratiºn. - V. * men to keep a steady stroke, not on any account to aban- tº don the oars, or to be alarmed at the noise of the flood. * The boat instantly took the first suction of the fall, in- creased in velocity to a great degree, passed through all the mazes of the channel till she came to the last descent, when tumbling, tost, and regardless of her helm, she spun round and round, and at length shot ahead down the stream. Astonishing country Here again the hills sub- sided, the face of nature smiled, the current diffused, and the river became a perfect calm. On looking back to contemplate the danger I had just escaped, I could but “faintly see the foaming surge, or hear the horrid clamour. * I never experienced a more eventful moment than in the “ passage of that fall.” (See page 121.) - There is no such fall, nor indeed any other, on any part of the Ohio above Marietta. This traveller has only made a trifling mistake of about ninety-six miles. The “Pitts- * burgh Navigator,” while describing the passage of Le- tart's Falls, speaks in language which might well deceive ºne traveller in his closet, and afford a favourable opportu- nity for exercising his talents, in giving a highly coloured picture, and magnifying the dangers and horrors of his situation while descending this herºendicular fall, which every boy in the neighbourhood would delight to pass in a ºb. - - Although, according to the English traveller's descrip- tion, in 1806, these falls were found about twenty-five miles above Marietta, yet, in 1807, the author found them where they have always been situated, that is, seventy-one miles below Marzeża. In correcting these letters for the press, it was found necessary to suppress a considerable proportion of some of the originals, which, although acceptable to a friend, might º º º º º º º º wi not be equally agreeable to the public. Perhaps a more liberal use of the sponge would still improve the remainder, yet such as they are, they are now before the public; all the merit the author can claim for them, is a strict adhe- rence to the truth, without exaggeration or embellish- ment. THE AUTHOR." TABLE of contents. LETTER. H. Albany....Schenectady....Mohawk River....Freight .... Fort Hunter….Canajoharie....Little Falls.... Locks and Canal.... Toll....Utica, Fort Schuyler ... Freight....Deerfield.... Whitestown.... Few fish in the Mohawk River. " - | - LETTER II. Rome, Fort Stanwix. Freight....Wood Creek. Locks.... Toll.... Salmon and other fine fish.....A Bear.... Fish Creek. Fort Royal, Oneida Lake ...Oneida Indians.....W.ght fishing on the Lake.... Rotterdam.... Lake in Blossom....Fever and Ague Seeds....Onondago River.... Three River Point. 15 LETTER III. Freight to Oswego....Seneca River...Sºl Lake.... Curious hypothesis concerning this Lake....Li verpool....Salina. Salt Works. Oswego River ..", VIII and Falls. Oswego zoº, and rº.º.d. and Shipping.... Fish plenty. - - 29 LETTER IV. Lake Ontario.... Storm.... Presque Isle, Upper Can- ada....Short of provisions.... Better fºre....Massa. saugo Indians.... Fish plentiful.... Land good.....A Tºrn....Canadian politics.....Anacious for war.... Opinion of the port officer. - - 44. LETTER V. Lake Ontario.... Schooner Hunter.... York....Earpe riment to obtain cool water....Hear the Falls of Niagara º twenty miles distant.... Light Jouse ... West Niagara.....Miagara River....Canadian politics and partialities. Fort Niagara.... Young's Town...fºreight and passage. - - 52 LETTER. vi. Queen's Town.... Lewis Town....More partialities. Devil's Diving Hole.....Anecdote....Tuscarora In- dians and village.... Whirlpool....Description of the Falls of Niagara, as observed from the Cºnada shore...Eacperiments.....Whagara River impassable between Chippaway/illage and the Falls.....Anee- dotes..../apor of the Falls causes diseas in cattle. - - - 58 - - LETTER VII. Chippaway Village...Chippaway River...Description aſ the Falls from the American side....Rainbow.... Dangerous passage to the bottom of the Falls.... The river passable at one spot immediately below the Falls.... Goat Island.....Anecdotes...Visit Goat Island....Inroads of the Falls....Indian Account. - - - - 74. LETTER. viii. Eacamination of the Country between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario.... Remarks on the form of the country, and probable situation of the Falls an- ciently....Speculations....The waters of Lake Erie lower, and current stronger, than formerly ... Fort Schlosser Landing....Outlet of Lake Erie. " - * 84 LETTER IX. Freight to Fort Schlosser, or Black Rock. Rattle snakes scarce.... Fort Erie....Willage....More Ca- nadian partialities....Anecdote...Fine fish...Flocks of Black Squirrels....Buffaloe Village....Indian Council. Games. * * - 94. VOI. I. - 2 LETTER X. Lake Erie..... Storm.....Dangerous navigation..... Freight and passage to Presque Isle....Chau- taughgue Landing and Lake.... Presque Isle, or Town of Erie....Harbour.... Dispute of the Penn- sylvania Population Company.... Fort....General Anthony Wayne.... Fort Le Beauſ, or Water- ford.... Freight....Severe frost in August.... Le Beauf Creek. - - - 103 LETTER XI. Lake Le Beauſ:... French Creek.... Meadville.... Cassawa Creek.... Fort Franklin, or Franklin- ville.....Alleghany River.... Toby Creek.... Sandy Creek....Mahoning Creek....Town of Armstrong ... Kiskemanitas River.....Freeport..... Buffaloe Creek.....A Bear.....An Alleghany supper.... Wild Turkeys.... Fish.... Pittsburgh....Freight and pas- sage....Monongahela River. - - 114 LETTER XII. Ohio....Description of the Boats in use on this R. wer....Prices....Fort M.Intosh, or Beaver.... Big Beaver Creek.....Georgetown..... Steubenville..... Charlestown...Mingo Bottom... Warren.... Wheel. ºngº. Putney...Grave Creek. Coal. Freight - - - - Xī and passage.... Fish....River turbid....Height of Freshas..... Little Muskingum River..... Duck Creek....Marietta....Great Muskingum River.... Fort Harmar....Improved Ferry-boat. 129 LETTER XIII. Description and plan of the Indian Antiquities found at Marietta.... Speculations. º - 146 - LETTER XIV. Eaccursion.... Lost in the Woods.... Favourable issue ... Burr’s Expedition....Opinions....Vienna....Lit. ºng River....Belleville....Letart’s Falls.... Point Pleasant, and Great Kanawa River....Galliopo- lis....Big Sandy River. - - - 160 LETTER XV, French Grant.... Great Sciota River... Portsmouth... Alexandria..../angeville.... Salt Works. Squir- rels......Adamsburgh.....Manchester..... Liberty..... Limestone....Charlestown.....Augusta.... Columbia ... Little Miami River...Cincinnati, Fort Wash- ington, Newport, and Licking River, 178 - ºxii. | LETTER xvi. Great Miami River.... Lawrenceburgh....Big Bone - Lick Creek.... Kentucky River, Port William.... Westport.... Floating Mills.... Louisville, Falls of | Ohio, Jeffersonville, and Clarksville. 184 LETTER XVII. - - - - | Salt River... West-Point....Ohiopiomingo...Blue Ri- | wer.... Flat Country...Green River....Town of | Henderson, or Red Banks.…4 Bear.... Wabash River.... Shawanese Town.... Salina Creek....Cu- - rious Cavern.... Cumberland River.... Smith Town .... Bear chace....Fogs, and falsity of vision on the Ohio. " " . - - - 195 - TABLE OF DISTANCES. JMiles , not in-l JMiles. º Lat Long. cluded. - From New-Yorkto Albany, is 160 160 |42 38 N.173 44 W. Schenectady, 15 175 - Fort Hunter, 25 200 Canojoharie, 20 220 Little Falls, 3. 233 Utica, Fort Schuyler, 46 279 Rome, Fort Stanwix, 16 295 43 +2 N.75 27 W. Wood Creek, in length, 24 || 319 - Oneida Lake, in length, 30 349 Onondago River, in length, 20 || 369 From Three River Point to Liverpool, - 13 Salina, salt works, 3 Oswego River, in length to - - Lake Ontario, 12 || 381 |43. 28 Nºzé 81 W. Fort Niagara, Lake Ontario, 165 546 |43. 10 NZS 15 W. Lewistown and Queenstown, 7 || 553 Niagara Falls, - 7. 560 Fort Schlosser, 1. 561 Chippaway Village, 2 Black Rock, Lake Erie, - 22 583 - Fort Erie and Village, 7. 590 |42 53 N.Y.859 W. Presque Isle and Fort, Lake Erie 90 | 680 (4.2 18 N. 808 W. Fort Le Beauf, Waterford, 14 || 694 |41 2 N, 17953 W. 18 | - - - XIV Jºles l not in JMiles. º Lat. Long. cluded. - - 18 H 694 Le Beauf Creek, in length, - 6 700 F.R.E.Nch CREEK, Meadville, - 57 757 Fort Franklin, 30 787 41 24 N.79 50 W. -- ALLEGHAny River. Armstrong, 85 87.2 - Pittsburgh, - 42 914 (40 26 N.79 51 W. - O Hiro River. Beaver Town, Fort M*Intosh, 30 || 944. Georgetown, - 10 954 º Steubenville, 19 973 Charlestown, 7 980 Warren, 9 989 Wheeling, - 10 999 40 5 N.180 34 W. Pultney, 7 1006 Grave Creek, - - 8 || 1014 Middle Island, 27 | 1041 Marietta, 3 1084 39 25 N.181 19 W. - Vienna, 9 : 1093 Little Kanawa River, and Bellepre - 2 1095 Big Hockhocking River, 17 | 1112 39 11 N. 8136 W. Belleville, 3 1115 Letart’s Falls, - - 40 || 1155 Point Pleasant, and Creat Ka- nawa River, 29 1134 38 51 N.181 57 W. Galliopolis, - 5 1139 Big Sandy River, 58 1247 38 25 N.182 28 W. French Settlement, - 20 | 1267 - Portsmouth, and Great Sciota River, 18 1285 33 44 N. 82.49 W. Alexandria, 0 Vangeville, and Salt Creek, 21 1306 Manchester, - - 17 1323 Limestone, 14 1337 (38. 36 N, 8338 W. Charlestown, 6 1343 Augusta, - 12 1355 Columbia, and Little Miami River, - 37 || 1392 Cincinnati, 6 || 1398 |39 6 N (84.18 W. | Great Miami River, 24 || 1422 39 6 Nº.8436 W. 18 4 - XV Miles --- - | not in- Miles. # Laf. Long. cluded. - 18 1422 Lawrenceburgh, 2 1424. Big Bone Lick Creek, 24 || 1448 Port William, and Kentucky - - - River, 30 || 1478 38 39 N. 85 2 W. Westport, 48 1526 Louisville, and Falls of Ohio, 20 1546 |38. 14 N.85 29 W. Jeffersonville, 0. -- Clarksville, 2 1548 West Point, and Salt River, 25 1573 Blue River, - 30 | 1603 Anderson’s Ferry, 72 1675 - Green River, 58 1733 ||37 59 N. 87 13 W. Henderson, Red Banks, 22 || 1755 - Wabash River, 46 1801 Shawanese Town, 30 | 1831 Battery Rocks, 6 1837 Cave, - 7 | 1844 Smithtown, and Cumberland River, 3 1878 (37 17 N. 88 7 W. Tennessee River, 12 1890 Fort Massack, 12 1902 Cedar Bluffs, and Cherokee Town, 16 1918 Big Chain of Rocks, 4 1922 - - Mouth of Ohio, 25 1947 （36 59 N.38 45 W. Up THE MIssissippi. Grand Chain of Rocks, 15 Grand Towers, 6 Cape Girardeau, - 15 Picket Island Passage, 54 St. Genevieve, 3 Prairie De Roche, 7. Fort Chartres, 6 American Bottom, - 15 Cahokia, 45 St. Louis, - 3 -- Mouth of Missouri River, 14 53 27 N.89 36 W. St. Louis, - - 14 - Carondelet, 6 Merrimack Ford, 15 Big River, - 45 Old Mines, 17 Mine Le Berton, 7. New Diggings, S Mines of Garberie, - 13 541. xvi. - - Mine La Motte, St. Genevieve, Platine Creek, Eagle, Fort Chartres, and St. Genevieve, - Mrssrssippi Rivers, In ESCENDING: From Mouth of Missouri to St. Louis, Cahokia, Fort Chartres, St. Genevieves New Bourbon and Kaskas- kias, Salina Creek, and salt works, Kaskaskias River, Picket Island Passage, Muddy River, Indian Village, Cape Girardeau, Grand Towers, Grand Chain of Rocks, Mouth of Ohio, Fort Jefferson, Iron Banks, Chalk Banks Bayou de She, New Madrid, Little Prairie, Bayou Riviere, Flour Island, Upper Chickasaw Bluffs, Second Chickasaw Bluffs, Devil’s Race Ground, Third Chickasaw Bluffs, Wolf River, - Fourth Chickasaw Bluffs, and Fort Pickering, Fort Pike, Council Island, St. Francis River, Settlements, Bayou, and Old Channel, White River, - Arkansas River, 501. 2562 JMiles º not in JMiles. # Lat. Long. cluded. | `" 341 1947 17 54 40 49 14 1961 39 18 N. 89.36 W. 3 || 1964 57 2021 13 2034 37 51 N.89 28 W. 3 2037 7 2044 6 2050 24 2074 16 2090 4 2094. 10 2104 |37. 17 N.'89 8 W. 15 21:19 6 || 2125 | 15 2140 36 59 N.88 45 W. 5 214.5 15 2160 5 21.65 18 2183 32 2215 [36 34, N, 8920 W 33 2248 27 2275 44 2319 - 2 || 2321 |35 36 N, 89.37 W. 11 || 2332 16 || 2348 10 23:58 32 || 2390 1 || 2391 |35 1 N.89 54 W. 1 || 2392 31 2423 - 32 || 2:455 34 44, N.9029 W. 5 2460 - 74 2534 6 2540 22 34, 1 N.91 4 Wº. -- * XVII JME, - º º . JMiles. º Lat. Long. cluded. - 501. 2562 Creek, right bank, 25 2587 Outlet, same side, 25 2612 Grand Lake, 58 2670 Long Reach, 18 2688 End of Reach, 10 || 2698. Wolf Island, 80 2778 Old Channel, - 18 2796 Yazoo River, 7 2803 ||32 26 N.90 52 W. Walnut Hills, 12 2815 Palmyra, 25 2840 Little Yazoo River, 27 2867 Grand Gulph, 1 2868 Bayou Pierre, 10 2878 Petit Gulph, 10 || 2888 Cole’s Creek, 23 2911 - Natchez, 34 2945 31 32 N.91 15 W. White Cliffs, 20 29.65 Hona Chitto River, 27 2992 Loftus’ Heights, and Fort Adams, 8 3000 |31 5 N.91 22 W. Line of Demarcation, 5 i 3005 31 0 N. Red River, #0 || 3015 131 5 N.91.37 W. Bayou Chaffalaia, 3 || 3018 Bayou Tunica, 45 3063 Tunica Village, 10 3073 Point Coupee Church, 12 3085 Fausse Riviere, 5 3090 Bayou Crocodile, 2 || 3092 Little Cliffs, 3 3095 Baton Rouge, 24 || 3119 |30 29 N.91 10 W. Bayou Manshac, 15 3134 - Bayou Placquemine, 8 3142 Manshac Church, 10 || 31.52 Bayou Fourche, and Church, 22 3174 Cantrell’s Church, 16 || 3:190 Banna Cara Church, 17 | 3207 Rouge Church, 18 3225 New-Orleans, 30 || 3255 29 57 N. 89.55 W. English Turn, 13 3273 Fort Placquemines, 25 3298 Passes of Mississippi, 24 3329 Fort Balize, 20 i 3342 501 3342 VOLa s 3. ºviii. - Havanna, - Double Head Keys, North Bahama Shoals, Off Hatteras, Off Sandy Hook, New-York, JMâles not in- cluded, 501 Total JMiles. Lai, Zong. |- |- ： |- T R A V E L S. LETTER I. Utiba, Mohawk River, July 15, 1807. Dear Friend, AGREEABLy to you. request and my pro- mise, I now commence sketching, for your amuse: ment, the few hasty observations I have made on my voyage to this place; yet, as these will neither be very new nor interesting to you, who are equally well informed as to the state of improvements thus far, I shall occasionally introduce such little in- cidents as may occur on my voyage, being satisfied with the sincerity of your avowal, that “anything from me will be acceptable.” You desired me to be particular in describing the several towns and streams I pass on my route, the respective distances between them, the time occupied and manner of travelling from one to another, as well as an account of the expenses, risks and dangers to be incurred in an inland voyage of the kind I am now performing. All these I shall endeavour to attend to in their proper time and Vol I. . 2 place; and, should I ſail in affording you all the satisfaction or amusement you may have anticipa- ted, it will not be from want of any exertion on my part. - The navigation of the Hudson, from New-York to Albany, is one hundred and sixty miles, and so generally known, that you cannot expect any thing amusing in any account I might attempt to give you, either of the grandeur or elevation of those highlands through which we pass, or of the many flourishing towns and villages which adorn the banks of this majestic river. I shall, therefore, proceed to those particulars which you are more anxious to learn. - The passage to Albany generally takes up from two to five days, and costs from six to ten dollars for each passenger, including board. The freight upon bulky merchandise is forty cents a hundred pounds weight; but heavy articles from twenty- five to fifty per cent, less. From Albany, which lies in latitude 42, 38. N. and 73. 44. Wº to Schenectady, you have fifteen miles over a very good turnpike road; and the freight over this portage is sixteen cents a hundred pounds weight. Many of these waggoners are great rogues, and, should you chance to have occasion for their ser- * The longitude is always reckoned from London in these letters. - - † Freight and waggon hire are synonymous terms over all the portages. - 5 vices, it will not only be well to be very careful, but, likewise, to make your bargain before you employ them, or, like me, you will have to “pay for “learning.” Schenectady is quite a large town, but rather small for a city; notwithstanding which, Iob- served that the inhabitants always make use of the latter term when speaking of the place. It contains about four hundred and twenty houses, and is plea- santly situated on the south side of the Mohawk river, about six miles above the great Cohoes. From its situation at the commencement of an ex- tensive inland navigation, whose shores are daily increasing in wealth and population, there can be no doubt that, at a period not very far distant, Schenectady will rank as one of the first interior cities of the United States. - The freight from Schenectady to Utica, a dis. tance of one hundred and four miles by water, is seventy-five cents a hundred weight. The car- riage by land is the same. This is owing to the great number of waggons, loaded with produce, which enter the cities of Albany and Schenectady, where, having discharged their loads, rather than return empty and earn nothing, they are glad to take a freight at the rate of water-carriage. The Schoharie river, a rapid and innavigable stream, falls into the Mohawk from the south side, at a place called the Mohawk Flats, at Fort Hunter, about twenty-five miles above Schenectady. Canada Creek is a considerable 4. stream of water, which takes its rise in a hilly, broken country, near the head waters of Black River: it empties itself into the Mohawk on the north side, at a place called the Herkimer Flats. The Tutconnodach, Coroje, and Lower Canada Creeks on the north side, and the Canojoharie, Otsquach, Saguett and Oriskany Creeks on the south side, are all small and trifling streams, which afford but a partial supply to the main river. You will please to observe, as a general rule in future, that, in all my references with respect to the rivers and water-courses, I shall use the terms right and left, as the frequent windings and sudden turns of the rivers render it almost impossible to give the true bearings without a constant reference to the COmpa SS. - - I have noticed but three different kinds of boats. used in navigating this river. Those called Sche. nectady boats are generally preferred; and, will carry about ten tons burthen when the river is high, but when it is low, as at this time, they will not take more than from three to four; they generally advance against the stream at the rate of from eighteen to twenty or twenty- five miles a day. These boats are built very much after the model of our Long Island round- bottom skiffs, but proportionably larger, being from forty to fifty feet in length, and steered by a large swing oar of the same length. They have likewise, a moveable mast in the middle. When the wind serves, they set a square-sail and top-sail, which, at a few miles distance, give them all the appearance of small square-rigged vessels coming down before the wind. Our galley, which, I am just now informed, is called the “Mohawk Regu. “lator,” has gone at the rate of six miles an hour against the stream ; and, during this time, be- lieve me, nothing can be more charming than sailing on the Mohawk. It is not often, however, that a fair wind will serve for more than three or four miles together, as the irregular course of the river renders its aid very pre- carious; their chief dependence, therefore, is upon their pike poles. These are generally from eighteen to twenty-two feet in length, having a sharp pointed iron, with a socket weighing ten or twelve pounds affixed to the lower end; the upper has a large knob, called a button, mounted upon it, so that the poleman may press upon it with his whole weight without endangering his person. This manner of impelling the boat forward is extremely laborious, and none but those who have been for some time accustomed to it, can manage these poles with any kind of advantage. Within the boat on each side is fixed a plank running fore and aft, with a number of cross cleets nailed upon it, for the purpose of giving the polemen a sure footing in hard poling. The men, after setting their poles against a rock bank or bottom of the river, de- 6. -- clining their heads very low, place the upper end or button against the back part of their right or left shoulders,(according to the side on which they may be poling,) then falling down on their hands and toes, creep the whole length of the gang-boards, and send the boat forward with considerable speed. The first sight of four men on each side of a boat, creeping along on their hands and toes, apparently transfixed by a huge pole, is no small curiosity; nor was it, until I had observed their perse- verance for two or three hundred yards, that I became satisfied they were not playing some pranks. From the general practice of this method, as likewise from my own trials and observation, I am convinced that they have fallen upon the most powerful way possible to exert their bodily strength for the purpose required. The position, however, was so extremely awkward to me, that I doubt whether the description I have attempted will give you an adequate idea of the procedure. I have met with another kind of boat on this river, which is called a dorm, or dorem: how it is spelt, I know not. The only difference I could observe in this from the former one is, that it is built sharp at both ends, and, generally, much larger and stouter. They have likewise flats, similar to those you have seen on the Susque. hanna, but much lighter built, and longer. On all these they occasionally carry the sails before mentioned. - 7 The Mohawk is by no means dangerous to as: cend, on account of the slowness of the boat’s pro- gress; but, as it is full of rocks, stones and shal- lows, there is some risk in descending it of sta- ving the boat; and, at this season, is so low as to require it to be dragged by hand over many pla- ces. The channel in some instances is not more than eight feet in width, which will barely permit a boat to pass by rubbing on both sides. This is sometimes caused by natural or accidental obstruc- tions of rocks in the channel; but oftener by arti. ficial means. This, which at first view would appear to be an inconvenience, is produced by two lines or ridges of stone, generally constructed on sandy, gravelly, or stony shallows, in such a manner as to form an acute angle were they to meet, the extremities of which widen as they extend up the river; whilst at the lower end there is just space enough left to admit the passage of a boat. The water being thus collected at the widest part - of these ridges, and continually pent up within narrower limits as it descends, causes a rise at the passage; so that where the depth was no more than eight inches before, a contrivance of this kind will raise it to twelve; and, strange as it may appear, a boat drawing fifteen inches will pass through it with safety and ease. The cause is simply this ; the boat, being some- what below the passage, is brought forward with considerable velocity, and the moment it dashes into the passage, its resistance to the current is such as to cause a swell of four or five inches more, which affords it an easy passage over the shoal. - The Mohawk may be considered as being generally about one hundred yards in width; its banks are extremely fertile, and the very appear- ance of the barns would satisfy a traveller that he was passing through a rich and well cultivated country. The inhabitants are mostly of German descent, and still, in a great measure, retain their national prejudices, and consider all who do not speak their own language either as Yan- kees or Irishers. The Germans of Pennsylvania generally speak a most corrupt dialect of the Ger- man language; yet, when compared with that in use on the Mohawk, it may justly be styled “attic “elegance.” The Saxons are allowed to speak the purest of any of the Germans, and when I have been complimented as speaking German like a Saxon, which has frequently been the case, I have felt not a little flattered; judge, then, how I have been mortified to be told by a fair Mohawk, that “I was an outlandish man, or an Irisher, and “did not understand their language, although I * had made out to learn a few words.” - The German and Herkimer Flats are very fine tracts of bottom land, and in the highest state of - 9. cultivation; and, from the great depth of the soil, as well as from logs and trees being frequently found in digging for wells, they were, in all pro- bability, at some remote period, the bottoms of lakes. Canojoharie and Little Falls are the only two towns that lie immediately upon the river throughout the whole distance from Schenectady to Utica. The former is a scattered village on the left bank, about forty-five miles from Schenectady; the latter about thirteen miles farther up, situated. on the right bank, in a rocky and barren country, of little value except for mill-seats. It consists at present of thirty houses, and must, in time, be- come a very considerable manufacturing place, from the ease and facility with which mills may be erected. - - - About a quarter of a mile before arriving at the Falls are two places called the Devil's Hole and Devil’s Oven ; and, from the description I had re- ceived, I expected to find a cavern large enough, at least, to contain a church—when, lo! on examina- tion, they appeared to be only small accidentalex. cavations in the side of a rocky mountain, about the size of a common oven, with a very large mouth. From the great number of small excavations that are continually forming, it is evident that they have been produced in consequence of a pebble or stone becoming accidentally lodged in a small cavity of the rocks, where, the force of the water ºf OL. I. p - 10 giving it a rotatory motion, the cavity has grown with every overflowing of the river, which, when high, rushes directly into these holes. On the approach to the Falls the scenery of the country experiences a sudden and picturesque change; the river becomes contracted to about one-third its usual breadth ; on each side the mountains rise to a towering height, the sides of which, although inaccessible, are covered with lofty trees, which fasten their roots in the fissures and crevices of the rocks, and firmly maintain their station in spite of storms and tempests; while, as you advance, the river seems lost in a wilderness of rocks and precipices. In ascending these Falls you pass through eight locks into the canal, where each ton of merchandise pays a toll of two dollars and twenty-five cents, besides a toll of from one dollar and fifty cents to two dollars and sixty-two and a half cents on each boat. This expense is paid by the captain of the boat. It is, however, certainly too high, and is generally complained of; not that the proprietors receive too great profits from these works, which, on the contrary, are at present rather a sinking fund, and must continue so until the number of boats employed on this river is increased in a tenfold degree. This ought to be an object of the first importance with the company, for the heavy charges paid by the few that navigate these waters, tend to discourage others from building boats. The farmers still 11 continue to transport their produce by land in pre- ference to water, as each has his team, which will carry one hundred bushels. They generally go to town once or twice a year, to dispose of their crops, see their friends, and look for great bargains at auctions; and, when ready to return, can take back a load as cheap as the boatman who passes the locks. Besides, they have not only saved in this respect, but also a charge of one or two shillings a bushel on all they bring; for it is generally known that a farmer of this description, by taking his provisions with him, will not spend more than one or two dollars during the trip. The great object of the company, therefore, should be to encourage the use of boats, and endeavour to increase their number; and, by that means, divert the land carriage to the river. This never can be effected while the present mode is persisted in , and, were they to lower the toll fifty percent. I should still say it was too high. In my opinion, they seem rather to have calculated upon high tolls and few boats, experience, however, will soon teach them to consider the subject in a different light. - The canal, which is four or five miles long, is a beautiful piece of water, passing through the flats of the town of Herkimer. It is a valuable acquisition to those through whose lands it flows: and, when once planted with handsome trees, will be one ºf the pleasantest situations in this country. On the left it is joined by Oriskany Creek, a small stream which passes through a large and extensive flat of the same name, but mostly unimproved. It was at this spot the ſa. mous battle was fought by General Herkimer with the Indians, in which he lost his life. The after- noon of my arrival at Utica, we encountered a vio. ent thunder squal, which I should not have no. ticed to you had not a large tree, immediately op- | posite to us, been struck with lightning and fallen into the river; so that although drowning is scarcely possible on the Mohawk, yet there is some risk of being dashed to pieces by the falling of trees which overhang its banks. Utica, on the site of Fort Schuyler, is a flou- rishing village, handsomely situated on the left bank of the Mohawk; it contains, at present, about one hundred and sixty houses, the greatest part of which are painted white, and give it a neat and lively appearance. Foreign goods are nearly as cheap here as in New-York, which, I presume, is owing to the merchants’ underselling each other; for this, like all other country towns is overstocked with shop-keepers. Most of the goods intended for the salt-works are loaded here in waggons, and sent on over land, a distance of fifty miles. The carriage over this portage is fifty cents a hundred weight. - - Whitestown is also a thriving little village, four miles above Utica; but, as it stands about half a 13 mile back from the shore, nothing of it is seen in the passage up the river. Deerfield lies on the right bank of the Mohawk immediately opposite - to Utica, and is connected with it by a good wooden bridge. It is but an inconsiderable vil- lage, of eight or ten houses, chiefly inhabited by very poor people; nor is it likely ever to rise to any degree of respectability, as the ground on which it is situated is subject to be overflowed whenever there is any considerable rise of the river. - - - The Mohawk affords the fewest fish of any stream I have ever yet met with Angling, you know, is my favourite sport; and, as I had promised myself much gratification from this amusement, I spared nothing that could render my fishing ap- paratus complete; judge then of my patience and disappointment, when, after nine day’s toiling, day and night, I at last caught a poor cat fish not larger than a herring I hope, however, in a few days, to be amply compensated for my disappoint- ment here, as we shall then be at the head of the Mohawk, and from thence descend with the waters flowing into Lake Ontario, which our captain in- forms me abounds with salmon and other deli- cious fish; yet, even here, I perceive, another diffi. culty presents itself, which is, that nature has been so bountiful to the salmon of this country, in fur- mishing them with quantities of delicious food, as to make them reject the very best tid-bit you 14. can affix to your hook; so that, unless you are expert enough to strike them with a spear, as is the custom, you are likely to go without. I really must confess that my feelings seem rather to revolt at the barbarous and unnatural idea of murdering fish with a large piece of iron, weighing three or four pounds, while, at the same time, a little bit of crooked steel, covered with a fly or worm, and suspended to a line, would afford me, for hours, what I should call rational amusement. Such is the force of habit and prejudice The manly attitude of the Indian, standing erect in his canoe as he skims the transparent surface of the lake, grasping his iron spear with his right hand, warns the quick-eyed salmon of his hostile approach—while we, more humane and refined, conceal ourselves under the thick foliage of the shady banks, and, in the guise of friendship, beguile the unwary tribe to the deceitful hook Yours, 15 LETTER II. Lake Ontario, Oswego, July 24, 1807. Dear Friend, MY last, I think, left me moralizing in conse- quence of my disappointments in fishing on the Mohawk: I shall not say another word upon that subject, for, to be candid, the first “glorious nibble” I afterward had, banished all unpleasant ideas re- specting the past. - At Utica I made some little improvements in our boat, which consisted of an awning sufficiently large to secure us pretty comfortably from the rain and sun. The passage from Utica to this place, a distance of one hundred and fourteen miles, occupied nine days, two of which, however, were spent at Three River Point in waiting for me, as I had resolved not to miss the opportunity of visiting the famous salt-works of Onondago. The freight to this place is at the rate of one dollar and twenty-five cents per hundred. The passage money, if any is charged, is about two dollars for a hundred miles, finding your own pro- visions; but, if you furnish a good table, no pas- 16 sage money will be received; and these open- hearted fellows always seem much pleased to have gentlemen for passengers. Rome, which lies in latitude 43. 12. N. and 75, 27. W. is situated near the head of the Mo- hawk, sixteen miles above Utica. The entrance into this village is through a handsome canal about a mile in length. It is here that the Mo- hawk is made to contribute a part of its stream toward filling Wood Creek, which, of itself, is so low in dry seasons as to be totally insufficient to float a boat without the aid of the Mohawk. Rome, formerly known as Fort Stanwix, is de- lightfully situated in an elevated and level country, commanding an extensive view for about ten miles around. This village consists at present of about eighty houses, but it seems quite destitute of every kind of trade, and rather upon the decline. The only spirit which I perceived stirring among them was that of money digging ; and the old fort betrayed evident signs of the prevalence of this mania, as it had literally been turned inside out for the purpose of discovering concealed treasure. In proceeding from the Mohawk through the canal into Wood Creek, and descending the same, you pass through another range of locks, five in number. The toll here is still higher than the first, being three dollars per ton for goods, and from one dollar and fifty cents to three dollars and | 17 fifty cents extra upon each boat. This charge is usually paid by the boatman who takes the freight; but I am informed that it is necessary to come to an understanding on this point at the time of making the contract, as this expense is sometimes thrown upon the shipper. Wood Creek is a narrow, crooked and sluggish stream, about twenty-four miles in length, from its head at Rome to its junction with the Onondaga River, and about twelve yards wide after passing through the locks. It winds through a low swampy tract of country from eight to ten miles in length, and four or five in breadth. Although this stream is celebrated for the size, activity and numbers of its moschetoes, as well as the stag- nancy of its waters, yet I neither experienced the annoyance of the one, nor the inconvenience of the other, although I passed it in the month of July, when both these evils are said to be intolerable. Just after passing the store-house, which is situa- ted below the last lock, a considerably rapid stream, called Canada Creek, unites with Wood Creek from the right. This is nearly as large as the former, but not navigable. Immediately opposite their junction are the remains of Fort Rickey, a fortress of some consequence during the old In- dian wars; but at present employed to a better purpose, being covered with a good orchard. About a mile farther we passed the site of another V. O. J., [. C 18 old fort called Fort Bull; this is on the right bank of the creek. The navigation of Wood Creek is not attended with any hazard of drowning, oreven of staving a boat to pieces; but the sudden turns of the stream overhung with the trunks and branches of trees, are not without their dangers, as I ex- perienced. The boat being under considerable - way, at a sudden bend of the river, we unexpect- edly discovered a tree, which had been overturned by some late storm, stretched across the stream, and supported by its branches in such a manner as not to touch the water. Our captain imme- diately perceiving that it would be impossible to stop the boat in so short a distance, directed every one to take care of himself, and ran the boat under a part of the tree of sufficient height to ad- mit it; but, as it was much lumbered up a-mid- ships, several of the articles were swept overboard. Amongst these were my travelling trunk and portable desk, containing my money, papers and apparel. The desk floated along side, but the trunk, being very heavy, sunk to the level of the water and stopped against some of the branches. As it required some time, however, to stop the boat and go up the stream, the trunk, on being taken up, was full of water, to the no little injury of my papers and clothing. The most laughable circumstance attending this accident was, that on missing my companion, and looking round for him. I discovered him in the top of the tree which 19 we had passed under, whither he had jumped to avoid being crushed, as he had not time to get aft where the boat was less lumbered. There is great plenty and a variety of fine fish in this stream ; and, as we are now provided with the necessary cooking apparatus, I find, for the first time, my favourite amusement likely to be attended with profit. We have already seen se- veral salmon jumping, but have not been able to catch any, except with a silver hook ; nor should we, probably, have so soon been successful in this way had we not fortunately fallen in with a party of Oneida Indians, who were returning from fish- ing, and had two canoes loaded with fine salmon. Several of them weighed thirty pounds each. We purchased two of the largest for one dollar and twenty-five cents. - We stopped the same evening at a settlement a little distance above the mouth of Wood Creek, in order to obtain a fresh supply of milk for our cof. fee and chocolate. The sun had just set as we were ascending the bank, when we heard the cry of a hog in distress, and, upon approaching the house, found it was occasioned by a bear, who had come upon much the same errand with our selves, namely, to get something to eat; but, as he found no one with whom to make a bargain, he very deliberately seized a small hog of about three hundred pounds weight, and marched of 20 into the woods. By the time we came to the house we discovered an old woman, with a frying: pan in one hand, and a ladle in the other, running after the robber; but she soon returned, and informed us that “this was the second time “ the darnation devil had visited them within a ** week.” - Wood Creek is joined on the right by Fish Creek, which, with more propriety, might be de- nominated a river, as it is at least five times as large as Wood Creek, but navigable for ten miles only. This stream is much resorted to by the Oneida Indians, on account of the great quantities of salmon and other fish which it affords; as, likewise, from its being favoured with numerous springs of excellent water, which, in this country, is considered as a very great luxury. - About a mile and a half below the mouth of Fish Creek, the collected waters of these two streams are discharged into the Oneida Lake, where are still to be seen the remains of Fort Royal, formerly a post of considerable importance in checking the roving parties of Indians on this part of the frontier. - Oneida Lake is a most charming and beautiful sheet of water, about thirty miles in length, and five in breadth, and, I believe, affords the best and greatest variety of fish of any water in the western part of this state. I have seen salmon, pike and cat fish taken in this lake from five to 21 thirty-five pounds weight, and chub, Oswego bass and white bass from two to five pounds; besides a great variety of smaller and less esteemed fish. Eels are found here in the greatest abundance, and are the finest and largest that ever I saw. They have an invention for taking them similar to our eel-pots, but made very large, and requiring no bait. These are always set in a strong current, either at the inlet or outlet of a lake, or on some swift part of the stream upon the rivers. Two ridges of stones are piled up in the manner before described on the Mohawk river, at the lower end of which the pot or basket is set. I was present when one of the baskets, which had been set over night, was taken up; it filled two barrels, and the greater part of the eels weighed from two to three pounds each. I have been always prejudiced against eating eels on account of a rancid taste which I perceived in them; but, being prevailed upon to taste of these, I must declare that I never before tasted any fish so delicious, without except- ing even the salmon. A family who live at the outlet of this lake, depend almost entirely upon this eel- fishery for their support; they salt down about forty barrels a year, and find a ready sale for them at ten dollars a barrel. - The Oneida Indians, from whom this lake de- rives its name, are generally settled in this neigh- bourhood. We had, occasionally, met with one or two families of them previously to our arrival 22 at the lake, but here we found a collection of about forty, who were amusing themselves with shooting arrows, pitching quoits, and throwing large stones. We made a stop here for the night, and found them all remarkably civil and well disposed. There is a tolerably good tavern kept at this place by a Mrs. J–, and her sister, a young wo. man, who, you may be assured, display no ordi- nary degree of courage in dealing out whiskey to thirty or forty Indians, who generally rendezvous at this place, especially as there is no other white settler within sight or call, should any accident render immediate assistance necessary. I made a small excursion along the border of this lake, and, although the shore was low, yet I found a firm, dry, white sandy beach to walk upon; some other parts of it, however, I was informed, were low and swampy. I was much amused in the evening by a singular illumination upon the lake, which I was at first wholly unable to account for. The water at this part of the lake, it seems, is very shallow for nearly half a mile from the shore, and being perfectly transparent, and the bottom a white sand, the smallest object may be readily distinguished. The Indians have a method of taking salmon and other fish by means of an iron frame fixed in the bow of the canoe, projecting forward three or four feet, and elevated about five; upon this they kin- dle a bright fire of pine knots, and while one per- son sits in the stern with a paddle to impel the 23 boat forward, another stands in the bow with a sharp spear ready to strike the fish who play about the light. Ten or twelve of these canoes moving about irregularly on the lake, on a fine calm evening, with the reflection of their lights, like so many lines of fire, extending from each object to a centre on which you stand, afford a most plea- sing prospect, and far exceed, in my opinion, the most brilliant display of artificial fire-works. In crossing this lake we were fortunate enough to be favoured with a fair wind, and five hours? sailing brought us to the outlet, or head of Onon- daga River. On our passage we had a tolerably fair view of Rotterdam, situated on the right bank of the lake, about six miles above the outlet. The country, generally, around the lake, and particu- larly in the neighbourhood of Rotterdam, has the character of being unhealthy, although the situa- tion of the town appeared to me to be sufficiently elevated. Should the vicinity of these low and swampy grounds be the only cause of this un- healthyness, I am of opinion that a few hundred dollars expended, in opening the channel and re- moving the bar at the head of the outlet, would lower the lake so far as to drain off the stagnant waters, and thus remove the cause. I had an op- portunity of examining the whole length of the bar by wading across it, and found it composed of loose stones and gravel, with no more than eighteen inches of water. Unless, therefore, there should 24 prove to be a bed of rocks to impede the under- taking, I am inclined to believe that twenty men, with the necessary implements, might easily ac- complish it in the course of a month. As the wind would not permit us to stop at Rotterdam, I can only speak of it from informa- tion. It is said to contain about thirty houses, but mostly deserted, on account of what they call the lake fever, which, I am told, makes its appear- ance annually. There is an excellent set of mills built upon a stream called Bruce's Creek, which passes just below the town; and, although the country is extremely fertile, yet, for want of set- tlers to raise grain, they have but little employment. About four miles from the outlet we passed two islands on our left, sufficiently high for cultivation, and containing about one hundred acres, but des- titute of inhabitants. We also passed a little spot called One Tree Island, which serves the naviga- tors as a land-mark, and, at a distance, has the appearance of a ship under sail. There are like- wise two small sandy islands, generally covered with gulls; the boatmen sometimes stop here to look for eggs, which, in the season, are found in con- siderable plenty. In passing these islands we ran aground on the top of what appeared to me to be a sunken island, with a very small flat surface; it was an entire rock, not more than seven paces across; and, on every side, we found more than | 25 thirty feet water, that being the length of the cord I sounded with. It is astonishing what myriads of small butter- flies covered the whole surface of this lake, which, indeed, rather resembled the large fields of an orchard, just spread with the fall of the blossoms. I had remarked that, at the head of the lake, one of the boatmen was directed to fill a keg with wa- ter before we started. I inquired for what rea- son, as the lake was fresh, and there was no dan- ger of our being without water. I was informed that, at this season, “the lake was in blossom, and “the water full of fever and ague seeds, therefore “ not fitto be drank.” This I found almost literally true. The cause is as follows:–The lake is, in a great measure, bordered with swamps and low grounds, which produce innumerable swarms of small butterflies, especially of the white moth. These insects cannot fly any great distance without resting, and a very light breeze offshore will pre- vent their regaining the land when once they have taken wing; in consequence of which, they soon fall with outspread wings, and cover the lake so completely as fully to justify the expression of its being “ in blossom.” Although the water of the lake, before taken up in a glass, appears to be perfectly clear and transparent, yet, upon examina- tion, it will be found to be full of small particles, which the boatmen call ſever and ague seeds; but, vol. 1. D - 26 in reality, are the eggs of certain insects. This inconvenience, however, continues only for about six weeks, when the waters again become pure and wholesome. In descending the Onondaga River from the outlet, the land is low on both sides for about five miles; the right shore then begins gra- dually to rise and improve in appearance, while the left still continues low for a considerable distance further. This is a pleasant, and, in some places, a rapid stream, increasing to the breadth of one hundred and twenty-five yards; its length, according to its meanders from the Oneida Lake, to its junction with the Seneca and Oswego Rivers at Three River Point, is twenty miles. The navigation of this river is somewhat dan- gerous, on account of several rocky shoals, and the rapidity of its current ; it, therefore, requires a particular knowledge of these places, in order to take a boat down in safety. Three River Point is most eligibly situated on the left bank, at the confluence of the Onondaga, Seneca and Oswego Rivers. Although no town is laid out, as this place at present contains but a single house, yet, I do not hesitate to say, the time will shortly arrive when it will be the site of one of the most respectable inland towns in this part of the state. This tract lies within the military township of Cicero; it belongs to the town, 27 and is at present under lease for six years. The state would have done well to have reserved this six hundred acre lot, and had it laid out for a town on a similar plan to that of Oswego, as it must always command a great share of trade, for all the goods bound to or from Oswego must pass by Three River Point, either in ascending or descend- ing, exclusive of the whole trade of the Genessee Country by the Seneca River, as well as the salt trade to the upper country, which must also pass this Point on its way to the Mohawk. It has, likewise, nothing to apprehend from any rivalship from settlements on either of the two opposite points, as neither of these possess a sufficient ele- vation, being subject to be inundated by every rise of the river. - Upon our arrival at the Point, we found a boat with thirty-four persons on board, just embarking on a voyage across the lakes to Sandusky; where we heard the Indians were beginning to be troublesome. We should have gone on in com- pany with them, but, finding myself within four- teen or sixteen miles of the famous salt-works of Onondaga, I resolved to detain the boat for a couple of days, until I could have an opportunity of visiting this natural curiosity of our country. I accordingly made an offer to our captain, who I have found very kind and obliging, to pay him six dollars per day for all the time he should lose; to 28 this he not only assented, but likewise offered to accompany me. After some little trouble I enga- ged a couple of men with a canoe, and we set out the same evening, and arrived at the salt-works about midnight. A description of which shall be the subject of my next. Yours, LETTER III. Lake Ontario, Oswego, July 26, 1807. Dear Friend, THE town of Salina, the site of these celebrated salt-works, is distant from Three River Point about sixteen miles, by land; by water, which is the route I took, it is a few miles more. From Three River Point the course is up the Seneca River fourteen miles, where, turning to the left, it passes through a low swampy creek, the outlet of Salt Lake, being about three-quarters of a mile in length. Salt Lake is a very small sheet of wa- ter, being no more than six miles in length, and about one and a half in breadth. The water is deep and transparent, and considered as very good for drinking; it is also well stocked with salmon, and a variety of other fine fish. I must not omit entertaining you with a curious little story respect- ing this lake, which I find generally circulated, and almost as generally credited. Our boatmen, among others, asserted and believed that the bottom of this lake is a solid bed of salt. “They had heard “ of some persons who had sounded it, who, al- “ though they could not find bottom, yet had 30 “ drawn up a bottle full of the water so strongly “impregnated with salt as to float an egg or po- “tato.” You may be sure I did not long hesi- tate about trying the experiment, and, therefore, engaged them to take me out the next day, when I should be prepared to put it in execution. Ac- cordingly, having provided a line and bottle, the one for sounding, and the other for drawing up a sample of the salt water, we proceeded to every part of the lake which they pointed out as being the deepest, but found nothing, except a rocky, sandy, or muddy bottom, with from thirty to fifty feet of water. Despairing at length of finding any deeper part by their directions, I requested them to row me to a place which I pointed out to them, where I sounded for the last time, and found a rocky bottom with sixty-four feet of water. Ha- wing prepared my bottle in such a manner that I could withdraw the cork when it arrived at the bottom, I drew it up, and, as I expected, found the water a little cooler, but not otherwise different from that on the surface. Our two boatmen did not seem inclined to give up the point yet, and one of them reasoned in this way—“ We must all be convinced that where there “ is salt water there must be salt to make it so; “ and, as we know that the salt springs rise in the * marsh on the border of the lake, there must be “a body of salt underneath; and, if that is the case, * is there any thing unreasonable in supposing 3} “ that the lake was, originally, a great salt spring, “ issuing out of a solid bed of mineral salt.” I then asked him, that granting this to be the case, how it happened that the water of this great salt spring was so perfectly fresh & He was puz- zled for some time, but at last replied, “the great “number of fresh brooks and rivulets which dis- “ charge themselves into this lake, contribute so “ much larger a supply towards filling it, that the “ salt water is lost in the immensity of the fresh.” I was much pleased with the ingenuity of this man's reasoning, and dare say you will likewise give him full credit when you are further informed that he could neither read nor write. But to proceed with my narrative: After having entered the lake, and coasted for four miles along the left shore, we arrived at Liverpool, or, as it is sometimes called, New Ireland, a small town wholly occupied in making salt, containing about twenty wretched hovels. Of its salt trade I shall speak hereafter. From Liverpool it is two miles across the lake, to a small creek of about one-quar- ter of a mile in length, which leads to the salt- works of Onondaga. - The town of Salina is situated on a bank fifty feet above the creek and marsh in front, and contains about fifty houses, some of which make a respectable appearance. The country imme- diately around the town appears to be a stiff barren clay; and wood, from the vast consumption of the - 32 furnaces, has already become scarce. The whole trade of this village arises from the manufacture of salt; nor do I believe there is a single individual in the town who is not concerned in the trade. The salt springs are found on the margin of an extensive marsh, not unlike, in appearance, to the salt marshes of Hoboken. The furnaces are generally placed a little way up the bank, and the works are supplied by hand and horse pumps. At present they have about three hundred kettles at this place, and at Liverpool one hundred and for- ty-four; all these are kept in constant operation, both day and night, and produce about two thou- sand four hundred bushels per day. From the inexhaustible nature of these springs, and the in- creasing population and consequent demand for salt, there can be no doubt but that Salina will be- come the largest inland town in the state. To the eye the Onondaga salt appears equal to that from Turks Island; yet, although it is as clear and white as the latter, it is found to be from four to five pounds lighter in the bushel. No other salt, however, is used in this country, and a great part of the states of Pennsylvania, Virginia, Ohio, and Michigan Territory, as, likewise, the whole of Upper, and a considerable part of Lower Canada, are wholly supplied from these works. I examined the several springs used in manu- facturing this necessary article of life; and, though l - 33 there was a considerable variation in their degrees of strength, yet I found them all nearly three times as strong as sea water. I likewise found a most excellent spring of fresh water in the same place, and within two rods of a very strong salt spring. I noticed, however, that this issued from the sur- face of a stratum of clay, which lay about six inches higher than those that were salt. I have just remarked that there is a considerable difference in the relative strength of the waters of these springs; and I have been informed by the manu- facturers, that some will require but ninety, while others take one hundred and twenty gallons of water to produce one bushel of salt. You will also readily perceive that the quality of the water must be very materially affected by every change of the weather, and, consequently, stronger in a dry than in a wet season. Although, in the former part of this letter, 1. amused you with the conclusion drawn by one of my canoe men, “that the bottom of the lake was “a bed of salt,” yet, I must confess, I perceive no readier way to solve the difficulty respecting the origin of these springs than by supposing them to pass through a bed of that mineral. Although I do not recollect a single authenticated fact of mi- neral salt being found in this country, yet we know that Poland and Germany have mines of it in abundance, one of which, I recollect, was said to VoI. I. - º 34. * contain a whole village within its interior, and “ to be inhabited by fifteen hundred men, women “ and children º' But you need not believe this unless you please. Although Salina, at present, does not employ more than one-fifth part of that number, yet I will venture to predict that, in the short period of thirty years, her population above ground will at least equal, if not surpass it. It is indeed matter of astonishment, if we consider that scarce a dozen years have elapsed since this whole country was inhabited by numerous tribes of Indians, of whom, excepting the Oneidas, scarce an individual is to be seen. The price of salt at the works is incre- dibly low, being no more than from twenty-five to thirty-one cents a bushel of fifty-six pounds, or two dollars and twenty-five cents a barrel containing five bushels, including the price of the barrel and inspection fees. - I shall now return to Three River Point, and continue my narrative down to the city of Os- wego. The Onondaga and Seneca Rivers uniting at this spot, lose their respective names, and assume that of Oswego. It is from this circum- stance that this spot has been named the Three River Point. The navigation of this river is ex- tremely dangerous, on account of the rapidity of the current, and the obstructions formed by nu- merous rocks, which lie hid in the channel. About five miles below the point our boat very narrowly - escaped being stove to pieces, by being forced upon what is called the Pilot Rock. The rapidity of the current here was so great, that the united strength and exertions of our whole boat's crew, nine in number, including ourselves, could not have prevented the boat from being wrecked, as we had become exhausted by fatigue, had we not fortu- nately met with assistance from five boats crews, no cre coming up the stream empty. These being very narrow, an expert pilot will con- not them with great judgment among the rocks; but, from their great length, (about sixty feet) should the boat happen to strike any thing, or touch a rock on the bottom, the rapidity of the current sweeps the stern round with so much vio- lence, that, should it come in contact with some projecting rock, as is not unfrequently the case, the boat is instantly dashed to pieces. The way of managing a boat on these waters, when she grounds forward, is to keep her in her position, and prevent her from springing with the current. For that purpose a couple of hands jump over the bows, and with hand-spikes set the boat back against the stream, until she regains the regular channel; but when once she swings in a very strong current, it is impossible for an ordinary boat’s crew to check her, in which case, if she has room, and a clear bottom, no evil can result; but if, on the contrary, she strikes a rock, ship- wreck becomes inevitable. Six miles below the - 36 point you arrive at the falls of Onondaga, which, more properly, should be called the falls of Os- wego, as they are upon that river. This, however, I am told is in contradistinction to a very strong rapid, four or five miles below this, which is called the Oswego Falls. I had always been led to be- lieve that what were called the Falls of Onondaga were nothing more than a mere rapid, therefore I was not a little surprised to find a perpendicu- lar fall of the whole river for about ten feet, ex- cepting a narrow channel of about twenty feet wide, worn by the constant friction of the water. The breadth of the river at this place is increased to one hundred and sixty yards. We were delayed sometime at the falls, as the whole cargo was obli- ged to be unloaded, and transported a mile over land to the lower landing place. The carriage at this portage is twelve and a half cents for a barrel of salt, and one dollar a ton for any kind of mer. chandise. The freight of salt from Salina downto the port of Oswego is fixed at eighty-seven and a half cents a barrel, including the portage overland. After the boat was unloaded, the captain determined to descend the falls in his empty boat rather than wait for the return of the teams to take it round over land. He urged me very strongly to make the descent with him, but as I should not then have had an opportunity of seeing the boat descend, nor of making those observations that I could upon the banks, I declined, and recommended my 37 companion for his chief mate, but he likewise de- clined the honour, preferring a walk of twenty mi- nutes by land, to a flight of two or three by water. The captain, and some of his men, then descended themselves, and, at the first pitch, nearly one-half of the boat disappeared ; all the men fell down, while the countenance and conduct of the captain be- trayed evident signs of the frolic not being quite so agreeable as he had expected; and, when we arrived at the landing place, we found the boat half full of water. Having repaired the boat, which had received some injury in descending the falls, our cargo was soon reloaded, and we continued our voyage. For a distance of five miles below the falls there is a very strong rapid, the descent of which is probably not less than six or seven feet in each mile; this continues much the same until you arrive within one mile of the town, when you suddenly perceive a rapid increase of motion, occasioned by what are called the falls of Oswego. The town and its shipping are now in sight; the current hurries forward almost with the rapidity of an arrow ; and, although the water is perfectly clear and transparent, the bed of the river a smooth solid rock, and the water so shoal that you fre- quently feel the boat rub against the bottom, yet you are waſted along with such extreme swiftness that you can scarcely get a glimpse of the bottom as you glide over it; and, before you can imagine it, find yourself unexpectedly among the vessels at Oswego, I made several inquiries concerning the height of these falls or rapids, but most of the answers I obtained appeared so extravagant as scarcely to deserve mentioning. Were I to hazard a conjecture, from the few observations I was ena- bled to make, I should not estimate them at more than twelve feet for this last mile and a half. The Western Inland Navigation Company are bound, by their act of incorporation, to erect locks at all the falls and obstructions on this route; but, in consequence of having expended their funds, they are unable to proceed with their improve- ments. The state has already made a purchase of this stock to a large amount, in order to give aid to the company, but it appears to be the general opinion, that unless it should take the whole into its hands, or give the proprietors some further and more effectual assistance, the establishment must inevitably ſail, or, at least, every thing will be suf- fered to remain in its present unfinished and ob- structed state. The town of Oswego, which is twelve miles dis- tant from Three River Point, and three hundred and eighty-one, by water, from New-York, is situa- ted on the left bank of the river of that name at the place where it discharges itself into Lake Ontario, and consists of about thirty dwelling- houses and stores. This town was regularly laid out by the state, which reserved a part of the mili- tary township of Hannibal for this purpose; but, 39 at present, it makes a very contemptible appear- ance, from the irregular and confused manner in which the inhabitants are permitted to build their houses and stores. Most of these are placed as suits the convenience or whim of the owners, in the streets or elsewhere, without any regard to the original plan. As the town is quite small, and there is no want of room, the inhabitants do not complain of this encroachment at present; but it certainly would be not only for their interest, but would likewise add much to the beauty of the place, were they to observe as much taste and re- gularity in their buildings as possible. This would obtain a favourable notice from travellers, and pro- bably be the means of gaining settlers; whereas the present appearance of the houses and accom- modations are really despicable. This town has likewise been made a port of entry, and, when we arrived, we found here two American and two British schooners, with a British brig, all engaged in transporting salt. Oswego has no produce or manufacture of its own, but is wholly dependent on the salt trade for its support. The country around this place, with very few ex- ceptions, remains still in a state of nature. The people of the town are almost entirely indebted for their provisions to a supply from other places, ex- cepting in the article of fish, of which they have plenty at their doors. I do not think that Oswego will soon become of that importance which has 40 generally been supposed, as its sole dependence at present is upon the storing and shipping of salt, from that branch of trade which crosses Lakes Ontario and Erie; and upon the small returns of furs, which are growing less every year. Heavy articles, such as potash, pork, beef, flour, &c. are never sent up the Oswego River, on account of the difficulty of ascending with a loaded boat against the violence of the current. A market for those articles must, therefore, be sought for down the St. Lawrence, until the navigation of the Os- wego is rendered more practicable. Fort Oswego is situated on the right bank of the river, directly opposite the town, and is a very commanding situation. You will recollect this was one of the several posts within our limits which was retained by the British contrary to the treaty. The site is high and commanding, and one of the most delightful spots for a town in the western country. The banks, indeed, are too high to admit of an easy ascent for teams and carriages; but this might be remedied by gradually winding along the hill. This eminence presents a very fine prospect of the whole country around, while immediately beneath extends the smooth surface of the lake, which, to the eye, appears boundless as the ocean. I was so much pleased with this situation, and the prospect it afforded, which was heightened by the appearance of two vessels at a | 4] distance on the Lake, that I could not but antici. pate the time, when Oswego will become the scene of all the noise and bustle that characterize a large shipping port; and this delightful spot the favoured retreat of ease and elegance. The British were fully impressed with the ad- vantageous situation of this fort, and accordingly spared neither labour nor expense in keeping it in complete order. Since the surrender of it, how- ever, to our government, it has been suffered to go to ruin. I cannot say that I admire that policy which, from a mistaken economy, has suffered such large and expensive works to become useless to the nation at so early a period. Not that I think there is any danger of our country ever fall- ing into the hands of Great Britain, yet, in case of a rupture between the two nations, of which there is a reasonable probability at the present moment, how easy would it be for a small force to take possession of the fort, and, in one night, by being properly provided, put it in a tenable state, before any sufficient number of men could be brought to dislodge them? From the facility of landing, and bringing everything with them, even - to a palisade, an enemy might, in ten days time, render the work so strong as to resist almost any attack that could be made upon them ; and, as to a supply of provisions, it requires but six or seven hours' rowing to pass into Canada, where the yare as VOL. I. F 42 abundant as in our own state. Although, at the close of the war, or perhaps sooner, they would abandon the fort, yet the evils resulting from an entire stop- page of that branch of our salt trade, would be an incalculable evil to the interior country, the greater part of whose inhabitants are supplied with salt through this channel. This would prove so great a misfortune that scarcely any expense ought to be spared in guarding against it. A company of soldiers would not only be sufficient to protect these works, but likewise to keep them in repair; besides, it ought to be remembered, that the country for thirty miles around Oswego, is perhaps the least settled of any of the western part of this state, so that no considerable force could be immediately collected in the neighbourhood. The dread of another Indian war at present occupies the minds of the inhabitants, which, I am informed, has ari- sen from some threats made use of on the oppo. site side of the lake, namely, that “they would let “ the Indians loose;” and, from the account they give of the numbers and enterprizing spirit of these savages, they have some just cause for alarm, especially when they consider that one night may bring them over from the opposite shore. The mouth of Oswego River is in latitude 43. 28. N. and 76. 31. W. - Immediately opposite to the fort, at present in- cluded in the town plat, are the remains of an old French fortification; and about half a mile distant from the town, are likewise to be seen the ruins of some other ancient fortifications, the founders of which are long since lost to the memory of the natives. I am not sufficiently acquainted with the art of fortification to judge of the utility of works situated as these are, yet I could observe that they appeared to be calculated rather for defence against the land side than that of the lake. - I am this moment summoned on board–Have, therefore, barely time to inform you that I have en- gaged a passage to Niagara, on board of the Ame- rican schooner Fair American, which is to sail im. mediately. From thence you may expect hear again from Yours, C. S. - - LETTER IV. Presque Isle, Upper Canada, July 31, 1807. Dear Friend, - MY last informed you that I had taken passage on board of the Fair American, a handsome schooner, of about eighty tons burthen, fitted with every convenience that could render a passage agreeable on the Hudson. We were bound to Niagara, but head winds, and a heavy sea, com- pelled us to seek a harbour in his Britannic Ma- jesty’s dominions. We sailed from Oswego on the twenty-sixth of this month, in company with two British schooners, who were bound to diſ. ferent ports. There were eight passengers of us in the cabin, consisting of Mrs. Y. and her sister, on their return from New York to Niagara, Dr. E. and daughter, from Nova Scotia, who were on - a visit to some friends in York, Upper Canada; Mr. B. on his return to Presque Isle, in Pennsyl- vania, from a trip down the Ohio and Mississippi, where he expected to have found a certain great character, now at Richmond in Virginia; Mr. D. who is about establishing himself as a trader at 45 Chantauque Lake ; and Mr. L. and myself, on a voyage of discovery. - - - The passage to Niagara is generally performed in twenty or thirty hours, with a favourable breeze, an advantage which we enjoyed on leaving the port; but, on getting into the middle of the lake, we were perfectly becamed. Some clouds, how- ever, which soon appeared in the west, indicated the approach of a wind, against which we conti- nued to beat for two days and nights, when it in- creased to a fresh gale, which raised such a short heavy sea as to render our situation extremely disa- greeable. Previous to this unpleasant time, we had been much entertained with the conversation of the ladies; but they were now laid up in their births, and required all our care, as they were unable to afford to each other those attentions which their situations required. Although I have been much accustomed to the long and regular rolling of a vessel at sea, yet the motion I now experienced was so very different, that I soon be- gan to feel the necessity of being on deck for a short time. Sickness of this kind, however, for- tunately never affects me more than ten minutes. Our situation being thus unpleasant, the ladies begging to be set on shore, and our provisions running short, we prevailed upon the captain to endeavour to make a harbour, which, after some considerable difficulty, he effected at this place. We had no sooner come to an anchor than we hoisted out our boat and landed the ladies, who in less than half an hour were as sprightly as CVCº. - Presque Isle, so called from the resemblance it bears to a place of the same name on Lake Erie, has lately been made a port of entry, and is the county town. It contains a custom-house, court house and county clerk’s office, with several others, all of which are included in one building, of but an ordinary appearance, whose owner com- bines in himself the offices of collector, county clerk, &c, as well as that of a magistrate of the county. As we were in a foreign port the captain was obli ged to enter his vessel and pay the customary fees. This town is regularly laid out, and, as the price of a half acre lot in this place is thirty dollars, one would be inclined to believe that they have calcu- lated upon very rapid improvements. As we were in a good harbour, and the gale still continued, we were well satisfied with our situation. One se. rious difficulty, however occurred; our appetites had become so keen since our recovery from sick- ness, that we had literally devoured every thing eatable on board, and had not even a sufficiency left to furnish a dinner; nor could we procure even a mouthful of provisions, of any kind, at the only house in the place. In this dilemma we re- solved to go in quest of something to eat. The ladies went to look for blackberries, Dr. E. and Mr. B were despatched in a canoe up the bay, 47 where we had seen a party of the Massasaugo In- dians fishing, while Mr. D. Mr. L. and myself took our fowling pieces and scoured the woods. After an abscene of about two hours we all returned; the ladies produced about a pint of blackberries, the Doctor and his partner brought a sun-dried eel, which they had bought of the Indians, while our party tumbled out of our pockets five or six ground squirrels, as many wood-peckers, and one pigeon. A sumptuous entertainment for eight half starved mortals. However, by the help of the sweepings of a flower barrel, we made out to make what our captain called a “royal stew,” of which no one would, however, eat but he and myself. and I can assure you I never made a more hearty meal in my life. - - - The next morning, at day-break, the captain set out in the boat, with some of the crew, in order to pass over into the Bay of Canty, which lies about ten miles east of this place, and is well settled ; and, as he did not expect to return until the next day, he requested us, in the mean time, to take care of ourselves. We really now began to feel rather in an awkward situation, as our appe. tites were craving, and we had nothing to eat. I proposed a further division of our company, and ventured to promise a plentiful dinner, if they would follow my directions. In pursuance of this plan the ladies were sent, with a lamentable story of our starving condition, to the same house where 48 - we had been so unsuccessful the day before, and, as they had “the one thing needful,” we did not despair of their success. Messrs. B. D. and L. took their fowling pieces and went down the bay, where I had noticed considerable flocks of ducks flying; while Dr. E. and myself proceeded up the bay, provided with the necessary fishing apparatus, in order to try our luck in that sport. At the same time we despatched two of the men belonging to the vessel to some mills, at about four miles dis- tance, in order to procure some flower. After an absence of about three hours we returned, and found the ladies had been more successful than we had any reason to hope; they had procured a sup- ply of butter, bread and milk, and the promise of some meat. Mr. B. and party had shot seven large ducks ; while Dr. E. and myself had taken about seventy fine bass. We had likewise fallen in with a party of Massasaugo Indians, and given them to understand that, if they brought fish to our vessel, which we pointed out to them, we would give them both money and whiskey, and, by way of encouragement, gave them a hearty dram. This had the desired effect, for we had no occasion, afterwards, to go a fishing, unless for amusement, for they furnished us with such an abundance, that we knew not what to do with them, so that the crew salted up large quantities. The Indians seemed to pay very little regard to | 49 money, in dealing with us; liquor was their chief inducement, and they would give a hundred weight of fish for a pint of whiskey. - I saw the same method made use of here, for taking fish, which I have before witnessed upon the Oneida Lake. Although I did not think this could afford me any amusement, yet I felt a de- sire to try the experiment, and accordingly enga- ged a Canadian to prepare his boat for the evening. It is indeed astonishing what quantities of fish may be taken in this way. The fish appear to be de- lighted with the sparkling glare thrown around them, and, as the water is perfectly clear and trans- parent, you may distinguish them at twenty and thirty yards distance; nor will they stir if you paddle immediately over them, unless you are noisy, or make a pass at them; they then dart a small distance out of the way, where you may ap- proach them again. We were engaged in this sport for an hour and a half, during which time we caught eleven fish, weighing together not less than two hundred pounds. We saw no salmon in this bay, but there are pike, maskonangee and buffaloe fish, which will weigh from five to thirty pounds. The bass, of which there are varieties, are very abundant, and are from one to three pounds weight. Eels are likewise found in great plenty, equal in size and flavour to those of the Oneida Lake. WOL. I. - º: 50 The land around this bay, and for several miles back, is a rich level country, and, about five miles from the harbour, there are several considerable set. tlements. As I was one day strolling through the woods with my gun, I unexpectedly heard several voices, and shortly afterwards came upon a very plain road, which, in a very little time, brought me to a house, which proved to be a country tavern. On inquiry, I found this was the main road through the province, and led to York, the seat of govern- ment of Upper Canada. Here I found six or seven plain looking farmers, who were travelling towards York. Perceiving that I was a stranger, they inquired to what part of the province I belonged? I told them I was a traveller from New-York to Niagara, but obliged to put into their harbour on account of bad weather. The affair of the Chesapeake had but just reached their ears; they were very anxious to know whether I thought it would lead to a war? I told them I did not think it would, as I could not believe the British government would sanction the unwarranta- ble proceedings of their admiral, and, therefore, would be ready to make us all the concessions we could expect. They appeared, and even express- ed themselves, disappointed, as they hoped that it would end in a rupture, in which event they expected to become a part of the United States. Upon my return to the harbour I had some con- versation with the officer before mentioned, and, 51 among other things, inquired what dependence the British government could place upon their provin- cial militia? His answer was, “ that, as they had “ almost wholly emigrated from the United States, “ the Canadian government did not place any con- “fidence in them.” - Our captain having returned, with a sufficient stock of provisions, bread excepted, he determines to weigh anchor to-morrow morning, and proceed on the voyage to Niagara ; from whence you may expect to hear from me again. Yours, LETTER V. Fort Niagara, Lake Ontario, August 4, 1807. - Dear Friend, THE day after we left Presque Isle we spoke the British schooner Hunter, bound to York. This place, which you will find laid down on most of our old maps by the name of Toranto, is immediately opposite to the River Niagara. It is said to be the best of any harbour on the lake, and contains about two hundred houses. As two of our pas- sengers, Dr. E. and his daughter, were bound to that port, they embraced the present opportunity of shortening their voyage. - The meeting of these two vessels afforded me much amusement, and for a moment made me forget that I was only sailing upon a fresh water pond, as all the ceremony usual upon meet. ing on the Atlantic was practised upon this occa- Slon. The wind having been tolerably free since we left our port, we flattered ourselves with a conti- - nuance of it, which would have brought us to our desired harbour by evening; but we were once 53 more disappointed, for, about three o’clock in the afternoon, we were assailed by one of the severest thunder storms that I ever knew ; and, for half an hour, were obliged to hand all our sails, after which it cleared away, leaving us without a breath of wind. - - The lake, at this time, being perfectly calm and smooth, and, from the information of the captain, the place where we lay as deep as any part of it, I was induced to try the experiment of drawing up some water from a depth of forty or fifty fathom, which I had been told would be found re- markably cool, and more agreeable than the finest spring water. It being the warmest season of the year, and this day particularly hot, I thought a supply of cool water would be a most desirable acquisition. I accordingly prepared a line of forty fathom, and, having secured the bottle in such a manner that I could withdraw the cork after it had descended the length of my line, drew up a bottle full of the water from that depth, which I found very cool. Upon applying to it Farenheit's ther- mometer, I found it fell to 539, and, immediately after, drawing up a bucket full from the surface, and applying the thermometer to it, it continued to rise until it rested at 68° ; a difference of fifteen degrees. - The wind continuing light and baffling during the night, we made but very little progress toward our port, and, at sunrise, the wind came directly 54 a-head. Before the rising of the wind, as I was on deck, I could very plainly distinguish the hollow murmuring of the Falls of Niagara, although not less than twenty miles distant. As soon as the wind began to breeze, however, the sound was lost, nor did I hear it again until I landed at this place. The roar of these falls can be heard at any considerable distance only during a perfect calm, and when a light current of air comes from the direction of the falls; when, I am told, it has been heard at a distance of forty miles across the lake. Having been buffeted about all that day in sight of our port, we at length gained the harbour a lit. tle after dark, and landed at the American garrison, where we slept that night, and the next morning passed over to Newark, on the British side of the river. - The town of Newark, or, as it is frequently called, West Niagara, to distinguish it from East Niagara, on the American side, lies on the right side of the river as you enter it from the lake; it is pleasantly situated, and makes a handsome appear- ance from the water, and contains about two hun- dred houses. The British have erected a conve- nient light-house on the point just below the town, and directly opposite the American fort. The British fort is a mile above the town; the garri- son at present consists of two hundred men; the works are said to be strong, and to command those of the Americans. They have been very busy 55 ever since the arrival of the news of the attack on the Chesapeake frigate; since which they have opened two new embrasures, which bear upon the American garrison. They have, likewise, a full band of musicians attached to the gar- rison, for the honour of his majesty’s arms, and the entertainment of his soldiers, who, notwith- standing this temptation to remain, never suffer an opportunity of escaping to pass unimproved. The Niagara River is three-quarters of a mile in breadth ; it affords plenty of excellent fish, and its current is at the rate of four miles an hour. There were three British schooners lying at the King's yard, when we arrived, two of which sailed the next morning. The greater part of the in- habitants of this town are Americans, and as warmly attached to our government as our own citizens. They never seek to disguise their sen- timents in public, but express themselves with as much freedom as you would do at the Theatre or Tontine Coffee-House. I was at a public house where eight or ten of the inhabitants were collected around a billiard table; the attack upon the Che- sapeake was the topic of conversation, and one gentleman observed, “if congress will only send “us a flag, and a proclamation declaring that who “ever is found in arms against the United States tº shall forfeit his lands, we will fight ourselves “free without any expense to them.” 56 The American garrison, which at present con- sists of no more than sixty men, commanded by Capt. L. are daily engaged in strengthening the works of their fort, although no orders from our government have been received to that purpose ; yet, in consequence of the unpleasant state of our affairs, a double guard has been set, and stricter discipline established. I had expected to find a considerable town around this fort, and, therefore, was not a little disappointed when I saw not even the shadow of one. About a mile above there is a new settle- ment laid out, called Young's Town, which at present consists of no more than five or six houses. About a quarter of a mile above Young’s Town is an elevated situation, which will admit of a fortification being constructed sufficiently high to command the British fort, which is immediately opposite to it. This, however, must be done in time of peace, as it cannot be expected that, when it is in their power to prevent it, they would, du- ring a war, suffer a work to be erected which, eventually, would dislodge them from their pre- sent position. I flattered myself that, before this time, I should have had a peep at the Falls of Niagara, and been enabled to have said a word or two respecting them ; but I find myself still seven miles further of than I expected, from the accounts of Win- l - 57 - terbotham and Morse, who both represent the falls as being but eight miles from the lake, whereas they are not less than fifteen. The mouth of Niagara River lies in latitude 43. 10. N. and 79, 15. W. - As the vessel I arrived in is to go to Lewis Town, which is eight miles from this, and a fair wind inviting me, I shall continue on board. Yours, c. s. - P. S. The distance from Oswego is one hun- dred and sixty-five miles, and from New-York, by water, five hundred and forty-six. The passage from Oswego to this place is six dollars for a cabin passenger, including board. The freight of a barrel of salt is sixty-two.and a half cents; mer- chandise at the rate of one dollar a barrel, avera- ging fifty cents to a hundred weight. Salt is a cash article, and is said to be a lawful tender throughout the western country. - 58 LETTER VI. Chippaway, Upper Canada, August 6, 1807. Dear Friend, FROM Niagara we proceeded up the river to Lewis Town, on the left bank, a new settlement of about a dozen houses, so called in honour of his eac excellency Governor Lewis; but, as his sun of glo- ry has set, the inhabitants talk of petitioning the le. gislature for leave to change its name ' Immediately opposite to it lies Queen's Town, a village of Up- per Canada, containing about a hundred houses, and a small garrison of twenty-eight men. Both these towns are situated at the head of the naviga. tion of Niagara River, and each has a carrying place round the falls; that on the American side, how- ever, is the best, and two miles the shortest. The land here or at Niagara. The rapids commence about a quarter of a mile above these towns, and continue with increa- sing and irresistible force for nearly eight miles, up to the foot of the falls. freight and passage are the same, whether you 59 The State of New-York has granted the exclu- sive right to Porter, Barton & Co. for a term of years, of the site of old Fort Schlosser, which is the landing place on the American side, immediate- ly above the falls, upon condition that they should build store-houses at Lewis Town, Fort Schlosser and Black Rock, on Lake Erie, which they have done. The portage for salt and other articles was formerly principally upon the British side; but, since the present arrangement, the whole of the portage is on the American side. Add to this, that there is now much greater security in transporting goods than formerly, as this company are bound not only to have all perishable articles housed and stored, but are even answerable for the safe delivery of whatever is committed to their care. The portage is thirty-seven and a half cents a barrel to Fort Schlosser, and merchandise at the rate of twenty- five cents per hundred. The distance is seven miles. I spent part of a morning at Queen's Town, where the only topic of conversation was war. The same sentiments prevailed there as at Niagara and Presque Isle, namely, a determined partiality to- wards the United States, and a decided and almost avowed hostility to the British government. On your way to the falls, and about four miles below them, on the American side, is a very cu- rious place, called the Devil's Diving Hole, which is nearly one hundred feet deep; the edge of it is 60 so very near the road that they have taken the pre- caution to cut down some trees, so as to form a kind of barricado, in order to prevent cattle or strangers from falling into it. This hole, as it is called, is, more properly speaking, the narrow ex- tremity of a considerable ravine, which has, at some remote period, been formed in the rock; it shelves off as it descends towards the river, and is in length about two hundred yards from the road to the river. The top is so overgrown with bushes that a hasty view would induce many to suppose it to be really a hole; but a closer exami- nation soon leads the eye along the windings of its courses, and discovers a very considerable breadth at no great distance. A hemlock tree, firmly rooted at the bottom, stretches its top al- most to the surface, and is so conveniently fitted to the hole or opening, that you have only to de- scend five or six feet, when its branches afford you a safe and easy step-ladder quite to the bot- tom, where you will find a copious spring of ex- cellent water to refresh yourself. They relate an occurrence which is said to have taken place at this spot during the French wars; the circumstances are as follows: “A British de- * tachment being pursued by a superior French “ force, were hemmed in in such a manner that * their retreat to the road was cutoff, and their es: * cape effectually prevented by this ravine ; seeing * their situation irretrievable, they laid down their 61 “ arms, and surrendered themselves prisoners of “ war; notwithstanding which, the French, with “charged bayonets, rushed upon them, and pre- “cipitated the whole party down this precipice, * where they all perished except one, whose life “ was preserved by falling on some of his com- “rades.” - - On leaving Lewis Town, at about the distance of a mile, is a very considerable hill, from the top of which is seen an immense tract of fine level land, stretching through the Genessee Country on the east, through that part of Upper Canada which lies along Lake Ontario to the west, and even be- yond the lake towards the north. The country to the south, although so obstructed with timber as to prevent a view to any great distance, I am in- formed continues level as far as that part of Lake Erie which forms the division line of the States of New-York and Pennsylvania. The village of the Tuscaroras is situated about three miles to the east of this hill. These Indians are under the pastoral care of the Rev. Elkanah Holmes, who was absent on a journey to Albany, which prevented me from obtaining all the infor- mation I expected. This tribe is already in a great measure civilized, having a number of trades and improvements among them; and some of them have become rich and substantial farmers. One of the tribe informed me that they consisted at present of eighty men. 62 Two miles below the falls is a very singular whirlpool, which is caused by an abruptturn of the river to the right; the current is so violent as in some measure to shoot past the opening into a large basin directly in front of it, where it acquires that rotatory motion which has given it the name of the whirlpool. The greater part of the water collected in this eddy, must pass off underneath, as is evi- dent from the depression in the middle of the cir. cle, which has the appearance of water in a huge funnel. Trees of one hundred feet in length, with a great part of their branches, are here frequently seen spinning round, until, by constant friction, or coming in contact with each other, they are at length broken to pieces. Sometimes they are drawn under and disappear for some minutes, when they again show themselves above the surface, and continue the same motion as before ; while at other times they disappear altogether. The whole of this river, from the foot of the falls to near Lewis Town, is in a state of the most violent agita- tion, dashing its foaming billows ten or twelve feet high, which, when viewed from its lofty banks of solid rock, about two hundred feet in height, give it more the appearance of a river of milk than of water. - The Falls of Niagara are certainly the greatest natural curiosity that I have ever seen. I have read different accounts, and examined many en- gravings and paintings, but all fall so far short of reality that the resemblance is not even as the sha- dow to the substance. Indeed I do not think it is in the power of either the pen or the pencil to do justice to a subject so sublime as this. From what I have just said, I would gladly avail myself of an excuse for passing over the sub- ject in silence; but as that would be an evasion of one of the articles of our treaty, I find myself un- der the necessity of sending you something. Figure to yourself the first collection of these waters, at a distance of upwards of two thousand miles, passing through the Lake of the Woods, Rainy Lake, and several smaller, and at length falling into Lake Superior, the Mediterranean of North America, being of itself upwards of sixteen hundred miles in circumference, and supplied by more than thirty considerable rivers; from thence continuing its course into Lake Huron, eight hundred miles in circumference, where, meeting the immense collection of waters flow. ing from the south west through Lake Michigan, still larger than Lake Huron, it continues its course through Lake St. Clair into Lake Erie, which is also nearly eight hundred miles in circuit; from thence, with a rapid current, passing down the Niagara River to the frontier of what may be called the upper country, with astonishing gran- deur, it there dsicharges this immense body of water down a perpendicular precipice of nearly 64. two hundred feet, which forms the celebrated cata- ract of Niagara. The Canada shore affords the most satisfactory view of these falls, as the greatest body of water descends upon that side. The American, how- ever, is not without its peculiar beauties. That part of the Canada shore, which presents a full view of the falls, is what is called the Table Rock, which is the nearest point of approach with safety, as it is just upon the margin of the great sheet of falling water. From this spot you have a fair view of the whole fall, rushing with such in- credible swiftness over the precipice to the un- fathomable abyss beneath, that, when you first fix your eye upon the descending mass, you instinctive- ly make an involuntary retreat of a step or two, as if fearful of being overwhelmed in the vast descent of waters. Immediately before you lies Goat Island, which divides the falls, and does not appear to the eye more than a stone’s throw ; but, on making the trial, it affords much surprise to find that, instead of approaching near the island, it falls almost as it were under your feet, not even reach- ing to the margin or edge of the waters below. I was likewise much disappointed to find the noise far less than I had anticipated ; and, upon men- tioning the circumstance to our guide, he inform- ed me that I would perceive the difference after having visited them from below. 65 After having satisfied ourselves with the present view of these falls, and conformed to the custom of the place, by engraving our names on a rock, we proceeded to the place leading to the bottom, for which purpose I had understood there was a convenient ladder; but, upon examination, found it so old and crazy as almost to make me give over the attempt. You will perhaps excuse my timidity, when you are informed that this ladder, which is eighty feet in length, is placed in a perpen- dicular direction over sharp and cragged rocks; and its being spliced and bound together in several places with grape vines, did not tend to lessen the ill opinion I had already conceived respecting its sufficiency. However, there was no choice; our guide, being accustomed to the descent, had all ready disappeared. I endeavoured to prevail upon Mr. L. to lead the way, but to no purpose; “he “ did not think it would pay for the trouble; and, “ as for his part, he had seen as much as he cared * for.” I was at length under the necessity of de scending alone, and had already gone about half the way, when I found the poor ladder, by some acci- dent or other, had lost four of its rounds; this cir- cumstance, added to its constant tremulous motion, did not render my situation a whit more plea- sing; so making one more effort to reach the yet distant step, and finding it impossible, without sliding down the side of the ladder, and recollect ing at the same moment that I could not slide VOL. I. I. 66 up again, I determined to ascend, and wait until I could provide a rope to support myself with. Ha- ving at length procured one from a neighbouring house, I descended, without much difficulty, to the bottom of the ladder. The remaining height is comparatively easy ; but, winding over sharp and rugged fragments of rocks, it requires some cau- tion and a sure foot to avoid a fall, which, proba- bly, would be attended with some serious acci- dent. - - This ladder is placed about half a mile below the falls, the whole of which distance, after de- scending the ladder, you have to walk over sharp pointed fragments of rocks, which occasionally break off from the projecting precipices above, par- ticularly towards spring, when the thaws com- mence. Our guide pointed out to us a huge mass which had fallen since he was here last, which was very evident, as the fresh earth and leaves still ad- hered to the fragments in many places. In ap- proaching the falls from these lower regions, you soon perceive the vast difference between the noise here and above; and although it may be said that you see the falls from above, yet it certainly is be- low where you hear them. From above you indeed hear a great roaring noise, yet it has the resemblance of being at some considerable distance; but, when once you approach from below, your ears seem gradually to lose all sense of hearing, and for some minutes you are doubtful whether you really pos- sess that faculty or not. The first involuntary mo- 67 tion of the eye, after taking a hasty view of the falling sheet, and the violent agitation of the re- bounding waters, as you approach the falls, is to trace the excavated and projecting point of the Table Rock, upon which you stood above. You halt—your eye roves wildly over the scene be- fore you—your hair becomes erect, and a sudden chill seems to pervade the whole body, when you reflect that your very existence should, even for a moment, have rested upon the slender shell of what now appears to be a trembling excavated rock, threatening almost instantaneous precipitation into the dreadful abyss below Such were the impressions made upon my mind at the moment; and, even now, the recital of them seems almost to realize the imaginary danger. - I was now at the bottom of the falls, and deter mined minutely to examine the truth of all that I had read and heard respecting them; amongst other things was the practicability of passing “if not “ through, at least to some considerable distance * between, the falling sheet and the rocks.” The facility of doing this, from the various descrip. tions I had read, as likewise from the assertion of several gentlemen who had made the ea periment, had so far prepossessed my mind in favour of its practicability, that the attempt had nearly cost me my life. Being full of this assurance I ad- vanced behind the fall, or rather behind the mar- gin of the falling mass, when, on a sudden, I found a difficulty of respiration. The attack was slight, but unexpected. I retreated a step or two, but finally persuaded myself it was nothing more than an involuntary precaution, which my timidity had inspired. I accordingly advanced, but cautiously, to the same spot, where I halted for a moment, and found my respiration easy, which again con- vinced me that I was mistaken. I therefore mo- ved slowly forward, and had, as near as I can re- collect, advanced three or four steps, when I was a second time attacked so severely as nearly to deprive me of my senses. I retreated a few paces, and, lest I should become giddy, and fall into the abyss beneath, set myself down on the wet rock, where, in a few seconds, I discovered I had lost my hat, which I perceived lying about five or six paces from me. One moment’s reflection, how- ever, convinced me of the imprudence of a third attempt ; I therefore retreated a few steps more in order to make my future experiments with less personal danger. Finding myself, therefore, in a place of security, I took up a stone weighing one or two pounds and threw it with all my strength between the sheet of falling water and the rocks; it fell about forty feet from where I stood, as if it had there met something to oppose its farther pro- gress. I repeated the experiment above a dozen times, and always found the same result. Larger stones Icould castin any other direction to a distance of eighty and one hundred feet; but immediately behind the falls, about thirty or forty feet, was the 79 greatest distance I could cast one, beyond the place I had advanced ; from whence I conclude that the compression of air between the falls and rocks is so great that no living creature ever has, or ever can pass betwixt them. It is impossi- ble for me to describe to you accurately how I felt when I was attacked ; for, to confess the truth, I was too much frightened at the moment to form any idea not immediately connected with my own preservation. I am wholly at a loss whether or not it was in reality a difficulty of breathing which prevented my advancing The strongest impression upon my mind is, that I felt something like a blow in my face, without, how- ever, leaving any marks of violence; but how or in what manner I lost my hat I was not sensible, but believe it must have been by a sudden blast of wind. Immediately below the falls are several small eddies, where there is excellent fishing; but the difficulty of ascending and descending is too great to compensate an ordinary sportsman. I should not, however, have neglected this opportu- nity had I been provided with the necessary ap- paratus; but, as that happened not to be the case, I contented myself with clambering over the rocks along the shore, frequently amusing myself with the many curious pieces of timber found here and there, cast up by a higher water, and deposited as it were for samples of the forms and varieties which are continually ground in the water works of Nia- gara - - 70 Having spent the greatest part of the day in ex- amining this wild and delightful scene, we set down upon an isolated rock and refreshed our- selves with a bottle of wine and some crackers and cheese; after which we took our course to wards the ladder, and, by the time we reached it, the wine had operated so powerfully as to render the use of the rope for ascending en- tirely unnecessary. Indeed, had there not been a single round in the ladder, I believe we should all have ascended with less difficulty than we came down. - But to proceed . The current of the Niagara River begins to grow very strong immediately be low Chippaway village, which is something more than two miles above the falls; so that, in order to pass over in safety, it is necessary to ascend along the shore for nearly a mile before you attempt to cross. For two miles above the falls, on the Ca. nada shore, no attempt is ever made to cross in any kind of craft. The first mile, particularly, ex- hibits one continued scene of raging and foaming billows, dashing and rebounding against hidden and projecting rocks. The descent of this rapid is probably not less than one hundred feet within the last mile ; and the vast body of water rushing over its rugged and broken bottom, exhibits a scene of noise and confusion surpassed only by the fall itself. - The following story. I had heard long before my arrival at this place; yet, as it was with considera- 7. ble exaggerations, I now relate it simply as it was told me here: “An Indian having procured a “bottle of rum, refused to indulge his amiable “ squaw with such frequent and copious draughts * from it as he did himself. This so offended the “ old lady, that when she found him at last over- “ come with the fumes of his bottle, and that he “ had laid himself down in his canoe to slumber a “ little, she gently pushed the canoe from the “shore, which, in a few minutes, was carried by “ the suction into the breakers, where the noise “ and commotion operated so powerfully upon the “poor wretch as to awake him to a sense of his “irretrievable danger. For a minute he tried the “strength of his arm and paddle, but finding his “ last moments near, he seized the bottle of rum, * raised it to his mouth, and in that posture was * hurled into the dreadful abyss below.” - They likewise relate another story of a most miraculous escape of a Canadian boat, with ten or twelve persons on board, that came very near go- ing over the falls. In order to understand it perfectly you must first be informed, that a company have erected a set of mills on the edge of these upper rapids, on the British side, where the stream is too violent to permit any thing like a regular dam or raceway to be built; here they have thrown in some rocks, which, combined with others in their natural situation, turn an abundant supply of wa- ter around a small bend, for the use of the mill. º * It appears, there was a Canadian boat which had entered the river after a hard and laborious day’s work on Lake Erie. All hands being much fatigued, and having the advantage of a good current and smooth water, they set one to watch, while the remainder laid themselves down to sleep. It happened, however, that the watch- man likewise fell asleep; and, as the distance was but fifteen miles, they soon drifted down to the rapids, where the noise and motion of the boat first awaked them to a sense of their critical si “tuation. All is lost they cried ; and every * man fell down on his knees to tell his beads or “ say a prayer, when the captain resolutely com- c. manded them to man their oars and pull for “ their lives. They obeyed him; and, at the “very moment when they expected to be hurled “ into the dreadful abyss, the boat struck a-mid- “ ships upon the very rocks just mentioned, and broke in two; the stern part in an instant was precipitated over the falls, while the fore part, with all the men, was carried down the mill “ race, by which means they were saved.” While yet at a very great distance, you will always observe a volume of clouds hovering over the falls; nor is there any exception even in the clearest and brightest day; the only perceivable difference is in their height and colour. In a clear bright day they appear very high and white, while, on the contrary, in heavy, cloudy weather, they º º º º & a º º º º º º º ** º º º º sink lower, and acquire a smoky appearance. These clouds proceed from the vapour arising from the spray formed by the dashing of the wa- ter; while the change of colour and variation of height depend upon the change of the heavens and density of the atmosphere. The farmers set- tled immediately in the neighbourhood of the falls informed me that this spray causes the death of a great part of their cattle during the cold winters, as the continued fall of the dew and vapour con- stantly covers them with a coat of ice, which brings on a disease that carries them off in a short time. I purpose going over to the American side to: morrow, from whence I intend to take a further view and examination of the falls, and shall not fail to make you acquainted with every thing I find worth noticing. I intended, before I closed this, to have given you some account of the Chip- paway village, but, as it is already of an unusual length, and I shall probably tarry a few days longer in this country, and have another opportu- nity of writing, for the present farewell. Yours, W. Q. L. I. LETTER VII. Fort Schlosser, Nagara River, August 8, 1807. Dear F riend, CHIPPAWAY Village, from which I wrote my last, is situated on both sides of Chippaway River, and connected by a good wooden bridge. This village, which is built upon the site of an old town of the Chippaway nation, contains only about twenty houses. It has a garrison of twenty- eight men, and some slight fortifications. The river is navigable for about thirty miles for light craft; and towards the head waters are settled a few of the Chippaway nation. The Chippaway is the blackest and most stagnant water of any living stream I have ever seen, in colour and flu- idity strongly resembling West India molasses; it falls into the Niagara about two and a half miles above the falls. This pure and beautiful river, as if conscious of the putrid and noxious qualities of the Chippaway, refuses to intermix with her foul stream, but forces her to roll her thick and turbid waters along the Canada shore, until, arriving at a bend of the river, they go off to supply the mills before mentioned. 75 Having given you all the information I have been able to collect respecting this town, I shall now proceed to amuse you with the remarks and observations resulting from my view of the falls on this side of the river. - When you are at Fort Schlosser you have about one mile to walk to the pitch of the falls, the greater part of which distance is along the banks of the river, where you have an occasional peep at the rapids above. About a quarter of a mile be- fore you arrive at the falls you pass an excellent set of mills, erected by Porter, Barton & Co. The situation of these mills is so very eligible, ſlºt- ture having prepared every thing, that there re- mained little else to do but to build them. As you proceed, Goat Island, which divides the falls, is seen at no great distance on your left; the river between is full of rocks, and here and there you perceive considerable lodges of drift wood, seem- ingly waiting for a rise of the river in order to launch themselves over the falls. - The margin of the river on this side is much obstructed with trees and bushes, so that it re- quires some labour to clear away a space suffi. ciently large to obtain a full view of the falls. You. may approach equally as near to the falling sheet on this as on the opposite side of the river; and, by taking a proper station, in the morning of a clear day, upon the edge of the precipice, you will behold beneath your feet a beautiful and varie- 76 gated rainbow, stretching from the American to the Canada shore, and perpetually rolling, as if it intended to confound all its bright and glorious colours into one confused mass, while each still re- mains separate and distinct. You may, likewise, have a very handsome view not only of the falls, but also of the river both above and below, by climbing sixty or seventy feet up a sturdy old oak, which stands on the mar- gin of the precipice, a small distance below the falls, and near the banks of the river. We next went to examine the hole which leads to the lower regions on this side of the river. The appearance of it was so truly frightful that I relin- quished the design I had formed of descending it, and returned to my lodgings. Being assured, how- ever, the next day, that the appearance was more dreadful than the reality, and that any person not subject to giddiness, who could depend upon the strength of his arms in sustaining the weight of his body occasionally, might descend in perfect safety, I determined to make the attempt. Pro- curing a guide and some ropes, I proceeded to the hole, which was not less than two hundred feet above the surface of the river. The guide, having made a rope fast to a tree, soon disappeared under the projecting rock, while he repeatedly called on me to follow. Ashamed at length of my own ti- midity, I obeyed, and, after a thousand hair- breadth escapes, arrived safely at the bottom. 77 In making the descent on this side, I had occa- sion to remark, as on the other, the vast difference in the noise heard from above and below. Whether it was owing to the current of air setting OVer Cº. this side, or some other cause, I know not; but certainly the thundering roar of the waters was much greater than on the other. The dread of falling while descending prevented my noticing the increased ratio of the noise; but I no sooner found myself at the bottom, than the mountains appeared to tremble over my head, and the rocks seemed to move under my feet; and, indeed, it is sometime before you can free yourself from these sensations. You may advance so near to the fall on this side as to wash your hands in the falling water; but here, as on the other side, in a few minutes you are quite wetto the skin. This is owing to the abundance of vapour which is continually falling; for, in many places, the spray rebounds from the rocks with so much violence as to prevent a nearer approach; and the constant humidity has covered the rocks below the falls with a luxuriant growth of grass of three feet in length, amongst which are found thousands of young eels. Immediately below the falls is a small space in the river, over which a boat might cross with the greatest safety, being the only place where such a passage is practicable between the falls and Queen’s Town. The cause I take to be this: the 78 immense column of water is hurled into the un- fathomablegulph to agreatdepth immediately above this spot, and, by its own reaction, breaks out with inconceivable fury below ; it causes a kind of calm eddies over the surface of the intermediate space alluded to, which, although it appears white from the raging of the waters underneath, yet, compara- tively, may be considered as still as a mill-pond. What first led me to this reflection was the mas noeuvres of some wild ducks, which I observed swimming backwards and forwards across this space, and who carefully avoided every place which I should have thought dangerous for a boat. Could I have obtained a canoe or skiff, I should not have hesitated a moment about trying the ex- periment. There are considerable quantities of fish, deer and other animal bones found along this shore, being, as I suppose, the remains of such as have been crushed in the falls. It is the com. mon opinion, however, that the smaller fish gene- rally escape unhurt. After having spent the whole morning in these lower regions, we made our ascent once more to the upper; and I do not know that I ever felt more satisfaction than when I found myself safely landed upon terra firma. - I am much surprised that a place so celebra- ted as the Falls of Niagara, and which is visited by so many travellers, amongst whom are no in- considerable number of ladies, should not yet have 79 induced some enterprising person to erect a con- venient house on this side of the river for their ac- commodation, as likewise a proper stairs for de- scending to the bottom of the falls. Twenty-five dollars would defray the expense of a convenient stair-ladder, with hand-rails; and surely no person, after travelling from two hundred to one thousand miles to view the falls, would hesitate to pay one, or even five dollars, for a safe and easy conveyance to the bottom. Judge P. who owns the lands ad- joining the falls on this side of the river, informed me he should, as soon as possible, build a house near the best view of the falls, and appoint some proper person to keep a genteel tavern for the accommodation of the curious. He will like- wise erect a stairs, sufficiently safe and easy for ladies to descend to the foot of the falls. When these conveniences are completed, as I trust they soon will be, I have no doubt but they will attract the frequent and numerous visits of my fair coun- try women, whose laudable curiosity has already been so great as to induce a very considerable number even to risk the present inconveniences, rather than not behold this wonder of the world. The perpendicular height of the falls on this shore is one hundred and sixty-four feet, and on the Caº nada shore one hundred and forty-three. The river, at Fort Schlosser, is two and a half miles wide, and, for one mile above the falls, alto- gether impassable. Goat Island, which divides 80 the falls, contains about eighteen or twenty acres of land, and is situated nearest the American shore. This island has generally been reputed never to have been visited by any human being, excepting, as they relate, “by a couple of Indians, who, many “ years ago, were thrown, with their canoe, “ upon it, and, after two or three days, spent in se- “veral vain attempts to recover the main land, “ were discovered by some of their nation. They, “ at length, by making long bark ropes, and “ carrying them a considerable distance up the “ stream, succeeded in floating one end against the “island, by which means they were enabled to “rescue the poor wretches from certain death.” It has always been considered impossible for any person ever to get off after having landed on the island. This notion is now found to be erroneous; and we are indebted to an accident for the discovery of a safe and easy passage to the island, provided you have a pilot who has been there before. It seems “ a man, in passing from Chippaway to * Fort Schlosser in a canoe, depended so much “ upon his own skill and activity in managing his * craft, that he attempted to cross over without “going along the shore a sufficient distance up the tº stream. The consequence was that he would “ have been precipitated from the height, had he * not accidentally struck the bottom with his * paddle, just as the stream had carried him in a l 8]. “ direct line with the upper end of this island, “ where, jumping out, he found he had struck “ upon a narrow sand bar about one rod wide, “ and never before discovered. He pursued the * whole length of the bar downward, and found “ it approached to within fifteen rods of the up- “ per end of Goat Island, where the water was “very deep and the current strong, but not impass- “ able. He crossed this little strait, and was the * first man, excepting the two Indians before men- “tioned, ever known to have landed and returned “ from this island.” I made some inquiry after this man, but found he was forgotten; and, as the general opinion is that he was drunk when he stumbled on this discovery, it is of no great consequence that you should know who he was. From the situation of the island in the middle of the falls, I was strongly tempted to pay it a visit; and finding a person who had been there before, I engaged him to provide a canoe, and the next morning, after breakfast, we set out on our expe- dition. In less than half an hour we were safely landed upon the island. Having passed to the extremity of it, I suddenly found myself trans- ported as it were to the centre of the grand confusion around me; and, after cautiously ad- vancing to the edge of the precipice, and obser- ving the firm and solid foundation upon which I V. O.E., I, T. - 32 stood, I experienced a degree of security not to be felt in any other situation when viewing the falls. At no great distance, on my left, I recognised the hollow projecting Table Rock, upon which I had lately stood; while, on my right, I traced from rock to rock, under a similar projection, my last descent to the lower regions. The falls are making daily inroads on this island, as well as on the general foundation of the river; for, while standing here, we heard a hollow rumbling noise, which, at one mo- ment, seemed to die away, then suddenly to re- vive again. I was, for some time, entirely at a loss to account for so strange an occurrence; at length, as I had turned my face towards the sound, I perceived a large black rock now and then showing itself amongst the foaming billows, which were hurling it over a smooth rocky bottom, on its way to the falls. When last on the Canada shore, I saw an old Indian who spoke tolerably good English, and had a long chat with him respecting the falls. He in- formed me, that, when he was a younng warrior, he was amongst those who gave Braddock his fa. mous defeat; that at that time there was a small rocky island that laid upon the very edge of the falls, at no great distance from Goat Island, and which was very remarkable for having two trees projecting over the falls. It is reasonable to be 83 lieve that this account is not untrue, as eight or ten large rocks, lying very near the edge of the falls, are still perceptible, and which, in all proba- bility, are the last fragments of the little island he alluded to. These would long since have been torn from their foundations, did not their situation protect them from the force of the main current. From the great body of water passing off on the Canada shore, the rocks, or foundation of the falls, are subject to greater inroads there, than any other part. The falls, from this spot, have something of the form of an irregular horse-shoe, with one side of the curve longer than the other; the long- est being on the American shore. This is owing to its wearing away much faster on the opposite shore. We found some juniper berries on this island, which were the largest I have ever seen in the State of New York. After having spent the whole morning upon this delightful and romantic spot, we left the island, and, by pursuing the same course, returned in safety to our lodgings, well satisfied with the adventures of the day. Yours, 84 LETTER VIII. Upper Canada, Queen's Town, August 11, 1807. Dear Friend, NO opportunity of a passage across Lake Erie having yet offered, I find myself detained some days longer in this quarter than I expected. I therefore concluded I could not spend my time more agreeably than in making little excursions through this country, sometimes on the Canada side, and at other times on the opposite shore. You will observe, from the date of this, that my last movement has been down the river; the reason for which is, that having observed that the form and make of the country below the falls coincided with an opinion I had imbibed, that, at some remote period, a great change had there taken place, I was induced to spend all my time in making a personal examination of that part of it situate between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario. This country may very properly be divided into higher and lower; the latter of which will in- clude the greatest part of that large district com- prehended between Niagara River, Lake Ontario, 85 and the smaller body of lakes, generally distin- guished as the Genessee Country, in the State of New-York, eastwardly ; as likewise a large extent of country west of the Niagara River, in Upper Canada, including all the country around the west and north-west ends of Lake Ontario. All this appears to me to have been formerly the bed of a great lake, the remains of which we now find in Lake Ontario. From the summit of the highest lands between the two lakes this natural boundary of the former lake is very easily distin- guished, and the immense basin before you has strikingly the appearance of having emerged as the waters subsided. What strengthens this opi- nion is the numerous specimens of lake shells found in every part of this country, in many places fifty miles distant inland. Another circumstance which likewise goes towards supporting this same opinion, is that, in seeking for a proper place to run a new road, a long narrow indented strip of and was found in the heart of a rich loamy coun- try, composed entirely of coarse gravel, pebbles, shells and other marine productions, which now are only found on the shores of the lake, and which evidently had once been the shore, beach or sand bar of the ancient lake. - The upper country commences immediately above Queen’s and Lewis Towns, where the hills rise gradually to a height of nearly four hundred feet; from the summit of which you have an ex- 36 tensive view for sixty or eighty miles around, and far across Lake Ontario itself. This ridge rises on both sides of the river, and seems once to have formed the barrier of the western waters above. To the left, after passing into Canada, it winds along the west and south-west parts of Lake On- tario, receding from the lake as it advances in that quarter; while to the right it passes off eastwardly to the Genessee Country, preserving its elevation still; from whence it may be traced south-east- wardly until it becomes the dividing ridge between the waters of the Rivers St. Lawrence, Susquehanna and Alleghany, which discharge themselves into the Atlantic ocean near Newfoundland, Baltimore and New-Orleans; a distance, in the two extremes, of nearly three thousand miles apart. The banks on both sides of the river, from Queen's Town to the present situation of the falls, are solid perpendicular rocky cliffs, two hundred feet above the surface of the river; and that every part of this distance, which is about seven and a half miles, has successively been the site of the falls itself, must be evident to any person who will take the trouble to examine it throughout the whole length. This river, and particularly the part within the distance I am now describing, ne- ver rises above four or five feet higher than it is at present; and, although it is impassable On 2C- count of its violent agitation, yet nothing short of the irresistible fury of the falls itself could ever 87 have made those lasting and inimitable impres- sions which are to be seen upon the stupendous mass of rocks throughout the whole of this distance; and for ages to come they will remain as monuments of the great and surprising changes this country has undergone. From what I could learn of the inhabitants, ma- ny unsuccessful attempts had been made to sound the river in several places, which, from the gene- ral opinion, is believed to be at least two hundred feet deep. As no boat can live on this part of the river, every attempt of this kind will be made from the land; and I am well convinced, from my own observations, that it will be very difficult to sound it with any degree of accuracy, as the immense body of waters, and velocity of the current, would carry off a weight before it could reach the bottom of the place attempted. If, according to the Mosaic chronology, our globe, at the present moment, is no more than five thousand eight hundred and thirteen years old, and we admit the falls to have been formed at the same time, we shall then have a ratio of encroach- ment upon the upper country of seven and a half miles during that period. This, upon calculation, I find reduces the proportion to 81 3-4 inches for a year, 6 3-4 inches for a month, and 1-5 of an inch for a day. Although this rate of destruction is great, yet, according to the same authority, we are under the necessity of increasing its rationear- - 88 ly one-half; for, according to the true doctrine of our time, “in consequence of the general deluge, “ our globe was torn from its centre, all its parts “ confounded together, and, after a general amal- “gamation, was reproduced in form and substance “ as we now find it.” I have not yet found any one who will admit the formation of the falls to be coeval with our globe; they are satisfied to go no farther back than the period of Noah's flood. This, then, will oblige me to deduct two thousand three hundred and forty-eight years from my first calcu- lation, as that is said to be the age of our earth at the time of the deluge. The increased rate of en- croachment will, therefore, then be 1143–10 inches for a year, 9 1-2 inches for a month, and 3-10 of an inch for a day. If, then, it is admitted that these falls, in the short period of fourthousand one hundred and fifty-seven years, have receded from their original situation at Lewis Town, to their present site at Fort Schlosser, a distance of seven miles and a half, we may reasonably calculate that, in the succeeding five hundred and sixty-seven years, they will have advanced at least another mile of 5,280 feet. This, then, will include all the ra. pids above the falls, and, consequently, add an- other height of one hundred feet to their present elevation, which will make a perpendicular fall of nearly three hundred feet. - 89 The idea of this once taking place has so heated my imagination, that I have even wished my ap- pearance had been dispensed with until that period; but, since it is not so, I have one consoling idea left, which is derived from the pleasing specula- tions of a wise man of Greece: º that we exist * for ever, and only change our forms.” If this doctrine is true, (and greater absurdities are be- lieved to be true) may I not hope, like “ Lucius,” in the “Golden Assof Apuleius,” to see these cele- brated falls at the desired period, even should it be in the shape of an ass? - I cannot believe that the falls make so rapid an encroachment upon the upper country as the above account would seem to indicate; for when you re- flect that we have been acquainted with this part of the country ever since the year one thousand six hundred and sixty-eight, making a period of one hundred and forty-one years, which, accord- ing to the calculation made, gives us 1320 feet, or one-quarter of a mile, encroachment during that time, I say I cannot believe that a circumstance so extraordinary should have remained unno. ticed until this late period. And, when you consider that the whole bed and foundation of the falls are composed of a hard solid rock, you will * Pythagoras, who affirmed that his body was animated by the soul of Euphorbus. - VOL. I. M 90 not be surprised if I say, I even doubt whether it be destroyed at the rate of one-twentieth part of an inch for a day. This I find would give 1 1-2 inches for a month, 18 inches for a year, 1,500 feet for one thousand years; and to have receded from their original position at Lewis Town, to their present situation at Fort Schlosser, would have re- quired a period of twenty-seven thousand years. I am well aware that this doctrine is better cal- culated for the empire of China than that of my own country, and you know I am too much of a true believer myself to advance any thing new, contrary to the ancient regimen; I shall, therefore, briefly sum up this seeming contradiction by sup: posing that although Moses takes twenty-three thousand years less to complete the same system of destruction, yet, it is very probable, that some vio- lent convulsions of nature may have assisted him more in one of his years than has been experien ced in the whole of my twenty-seven thousand. That the waters of the Niagara River above the falls, as likewise of Lake Erie, continue insensibly to lower, is confirmed by almost every person who has lived long on their banks. The current of the river is likewise said to be stronger than formerly, owing, probably, to the continued wearing away of the bed of the river, which affords a more rapid descent for the stream above. Another convincing circumstance that this river, above the falls, was once a part of the ancient Lake Erie itself, is tha. 91 in digging wells, &c. at a considerable distance from the banks, shells are very often found. Judge P. walked with me one morning to a place where a man was digging holes for the purpose of sink- ing tan vats, and where he had found, six or seven feet below the surface of the earth, a great num- ber and variety of shells. This place is about three hundred yards above the falls, and at least thirty feet higher than the surface of the river, in a soil exactly like that in the bed of the river—a yel- lowish sandy gravel. I took several of the shells as specimens, with an intent to compare them with those found at present in the river; one, in parti- cular, was so very large and thick, (being seven inches long, three and three-quarters wide, and half an inch thick at the hinge,) that I doubted whether our lakes or rivers produced any thing like it at present. Judge P. however, informed me he had seen some as large taken out of the river; nor was it long before I had an opportunity of being satisfied that they were of the same shape, figure and size with those now found in the bed of the same river. From this circumstance it is evident that this spot was, at some distant period, a part of the lake; and, as it would require a rise of thirty or forty feet to overflow it, which would consequently inundate a large tract of the sur- rounding country, it is plain that the ancient Lake Erie must have formerly been much larger than it is at present. 92 On the hills immediately back of Lewis Town, is still to be seen some small remains of the ma– chinery formerly used by the French, when in pos- session of this country. This is a contrivance made prior to any roads or teams being in use in this wilderness, and so constructed that, with a kind of windlass and cable, one end would draw up a large frame made to contain three or four thousand weight of goods, while the other end, with an apparatus of the same kind, would de- scend with the same or a greater quantity of peltry. I am likewise informed, that they had another contrivance of the same kind at the outlet of Lake Erie, which is the head of Niagara River, where the current is so very rapid that vessels re- quire the strongest sailing breeze to stem it. From this circumstance large vessels seldom drop down so low as the strongest rapids; notwithstanding which, they are frequently obliged to wait a fort- night together for a breeze sufficiently powerful to carry them without the reach of the current. The present portage on the American side, which is seven miles to Fort Schlosser, will un- doubtedly, in a few years, be changed to a new landing, six miles above the present. This place is owned by a Mr. J. who has purchased a tract of thirteen hundred acres of land from the state, for which he paid five dollars an acre. This site for a town or landing, is no more than seven miles from Lewis Town, which you will perceive is the 93 same distance to Fort Schlosser, the present land. ing place. The difference of six milesin so short a distance, is occasioned by a sudden bend in the river. I have seen and conversed with the pro- prietor of this tract, who described the turn of the river, which I afterwards found to be perfectly correct Judge P. likewise mentioned to me, as his opinion, that the landing-place would undoubt. edly be removed whenever J.'s property fell into the hands of any one able to open, or rather clear out, a road already opened. The owner of this tract is a Pennsylvanian Ger. man, and fully sensible of the importance of its situation; yet, as he is unable to accomplish any thing himself, he offered to dispose of one-half of it to me, as being his countryman; but was afraid to have any thing to do with strangers, lest they should cheat him out of the whole. The road is capable of being made good and dry at a very moderate expense; and, from the conviction that it must shortly become the deposit of all the goods which pass down the lakes, I was almost induced to make the purchase. Yours, 94 LETTER IX Lake Erie, Upper Canada, August 16, 1807. Dear Friend, - - - HAVING, in my three last, laboured hard to entertain you with every thing I could observe re- specting the falls, and the surrounding country, I shall now proceed with the progress of my jour- ney. Fort Erie is distant twenty-four miles by water from Fort Schlosser. There is no waggon road on the American side, but a tolerable horse- path, which, if it is not too dark, you may make out to find - The freight from Fort Schlosser to this place, or to Black Rock, as it is called, upon the oppo. site shore, is thirty-seven and a half cents a barrel, and twenty-five cents a hundred weight for mer- chandise; to which is added, the pleasure of sleeping one night in the woods. As you have already experienced what some of our fair weather friends would call the “horrors of a night in the “wilderness,” I dare not attempt to magnify the dangers and hardships to which one is exposed in a situation so dreadful; but candidly own I spent 95. the night with more comfort and satisfaction than that which you will recollect we passed about eight years ago on the banks of Lake Ontario, when we were very much frightened at the growl- ing of a bear, who, uninvited, came to partake of our half roasted raccoon. This river is from one to one and a half miles in breadth, with a current of from four to five miles an hour. It is interspersed with a number of rich and beautiful islands, of from twenty to two hun- dred acres. Grand Island, which begins about two miles above Fort Schlosser, is twelve miles long. eight broad, and contains about thirty thousand acres of excellent land. This island is disputed by the British, who claim it as being nearest their shore; but, as the middle of the river is the boun- dary line between the two nations, and the main channel of the river is on the Canada shore, there can be no doubt but the sovereignty of it belongs to the State of New-York. The land on both sides of the river is somewhat low, although not subject to any inundations; the soil is rich, and the British side is one settled street from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario. The American side, on the contrary, remains almost wholly waste and unimproved, chiefly owing to the lands being in the hands of speculators, who do not offer sufficient encouragement to the poor - settler to make improvements. 96 The country along this river is considered as very healthy, being free from those agues and fe- vers which are generally so prevalent in most new low countries. If I may give credit to one-half of the stories I. have heard related, the country through which I have passed must contain a vast number of rattle- snakes; yet I have now travelled upwards of five hundred miles, a greater part of which was through a new and unsettled country, and frequently on foot for ten miles together, when hunting in the woods, yet I have seen but two snakes, neither of which were of the rattle kind. As it is now the middle of summer, when they might be ex- pected to be most numerous, I must conclude they are not so plentiful as they are generally reported to be. - - - Fort Erie, which is situated at the outlet of the lake, contains a small garrison of twenty-eight men, who, at present, are employed in building new works. The Americans have no fort or gar- rison on their side, although there is a most com- manding situation for that purpose. This fort lies in latitude 42, 53. N. and 78, 59. W. - Fort Erie Village contains about thirty houses in the vicinity of the garrison, the inhabitants of which have mostly emigrated from Pennsylvania. You here observe the same open and avowed par- tiality for the United States which I have noticed | 97 in every place I was at in Upper Canada. You will perhaps be surprised at a little anecdote I shall relate which actually took place but a few days ago, in the presence and hearing of the officers and soldiers of the garrison. It seems, the British had occasion to move two heavy pieces of cannon, mounted on carriages in front of the fort; but, by some strange accident, one of them was pointed directly towards Buffaloe, an American settlement. One of our citizens happening to be there in the course of the day, and being, perhaps, prompted by the same laudable curiosity which induced his royal majesty to peep into the bung-hole of an empty hogshead, when on a visit to Whit- bread's brewery, likewise peeped into the muz- zle of the gun , but not satisfied, he went to the other end and took her level, when, behold, she was found to be pointed directly against his settlement. He immediately saluted the king, his officers and soldiers with all the scurrilous language he was capable of concluding with a bitter curse, that he would return the next day with a party of choice fellows, and, if he found the gun in the same position, he would hang every mother's son of them, without judge or jury. We found three British schooners lying here waiting for salt, one of which was bound for Presque Isle. I engaged our passage on board of her; but, as she was afterwards detained several vol. I N. 98 days with head winds, I spent my time most agree. ably, being continually engaged in my favourite amusement of fishing. This place affords a great variety of fine, large and delicious fish, such as pike. pickerel, musconenja and cat fish, weighing from twenty to forty pounds; and white, rock and black bass, weighing from one to three pounds each; besides a variety of smaller and less valuable fish. In two hours I have taken a hundred weight with a hook and line. The greatest difficulty I found was in procuring a regular supply of bait, which is small minnows, sometimes so plentiful that you may obtain a supply in five minutes, and at other times so scarce that you may search an hour with- out obtaining a handful. The cat fish here ap- pear to be of a different species from those caught in the ponds and waters in the vicinity of New- York, having none of the sharp horns which make those so dangerous to handle. I have eat them both fresh and salted, and cannot compare them to any thing but cod fish, except that the cat fish is much the fattest of the two. - The best fishing ground is directly under th American shore, where I have been much amused while walking along the beach, and seeing a herd of little Indians collected together, every one or two hundred yards, for the purpose of fishing, and generally so successful that each had a burthen to carry to the family wigwam, 99 Although I generally prefer fishing to shooting, yet L.'s success one day induced me to pass over to the Canada shore for the purpose of shooting black squirrels. I have often seen flocks of black birds on a tree, but never before flocks of squir- rels You are perhaps surprised at my assertion, but I repeat it, they were literally in small flocks upon the trees; on some we found ten, twelve and fifteen, and L. even killed five of them at one shot. Indeed, it was hardly necessary to shoot them, as you would frequently find three or four upon a little bush not more than twelve or fifteen feet in height. We shot one hundred and eighty-seven in less than three hours. They were exceedingly fat, and as they made such delicious sea pies, we took care to have a good stock provided for sea stores. The boys from the village hunt them with sticks and clubs; but generally let them lie where they chance to knock them down, as the inhabit- ants are surfeited with the too frequent repetition of the dish. Encouragement is however held out for their destruction, as they commit great havoc. in the corn fields. It is somewhat singular that on the American side, you may range a day through the woods, and scarcely pick up half a dozen of these animals, while there are such in merable flocks on the opposite shore ; an evident sign, I think, that the present multitudes, from some cause or other, have migrated from the inte- rior of the north-west, until their farthe progress * 100 south-eastwardly was arrested by the broad and rapid stream of Niagara. Fort Erie is a port of entry for the British do- minions on this side of the lake, and Buffaloe Creek has been established for the same purpose on the American side. The current of the river at this place is so strong that it is impossible for a vessel to sail out of port with anything short of a four knot breeze; and, if one-half mile lower, she will require even a stronger one to stem the current. Vessels fre- quently lie wind-bound here for a week or two to- gether; whereas, if they were only one mile ad- vanced into the lake, out of the draught of the outlet, they might make an expeditious voyage. On the American side I have observed they use a yoke of oxen for towing the boats up along shore. - - Buffaloe is a small village situated on Buffaloe Creek, about three miles after you pass the out- let of Lake Erie, on your left hand side. I was present at the annual distribution of the presents to the six nations of Indians, most of whom now live within the British territo- ries. There were about five hundred assembled together on this occasion, some of whom were painted and feathered off fine enough. They had likewise a council meeting, for the purpose of re- ceiving and considering certain overtures that had been made to them by some hostile Indians, “to 101 “take up the tomahawk against the United States;” but they wisely determined to remain neuter in case of hostilities between America and England. After their business was settled, they formed themselves into parties at ball-playing, and run- ning races for prizes given by the State. Their manner of ball-playing is very similar to what you have seen by the name of hurley; but, instead of the curved hickory used on that occasion, they have a long curved racket, strung with deer sinews, with which they can strike the ball to an astonish- ing distance. Whenever the ball was lodged among the crowd of players, you would have sup- posed there was a bloody battle going on, as every one struck pell-mell together with their rackets not in the least heeding whom he knock- ed on the head; but, whenever a lucky stroke drove the ball near to the goal, you would have thought hell itself had broke loose, for such a hideous yell and screaming was instantly set up as baffles all my attempts at a description. I was much amused by the pride and gallantry displayed by one of the victors on receiving, as a prize, a light calico shirt. As soon as he recei- ved it he put it on, and, after viewing himself for a moment, strutted through the crowd to display his finery. In a few minutes he returned to a circle of women, when he pulled of his prize and put it upon one of the lady squaws, who soon ex- perienced the value of this mark of distinction, by 102 attracting the admiration of some, and exciting the envy of more, among the crowd of females around her. - - - There is a very good ferry kept on the Ameri- can side of the river, which is within the reserva. tion tract intended for a garrison, should occasion require it. The Seneca Indians, in their treaty with the State of New-York, have secured the privilege of a free ferry across this river whenever they please. I am just notified that the wind is fair, and the captain waiting for me, in order to get under way. My next will be from Presque Isle across Lake - Elie, or, if no immediate opportunity of convey- ance should offer, more probably from the head waters of the celebrated Ohio. Till when farewell. Yours, C. S. 103 LETTER X. Pennsylvania, Fort Le Beauf, August 25, 1807. Dear Friend, YOU will perceive from the date of my letter . that I have at length arrrived at one of the head waters of the Ohio. But, before I say any thing in advance, it is necessary you should know the particulars of my voyage to this place. - We embarked on the twentieth instant, on board of the British schooner Dover, Capt. H. bound for Presque Isle, and, having a fair wind, the next day had already descried our port, when the wind died away, and afterwards set in a head, and continued so for the remainder of our voyage. We were within fifteen miles of our destination, when the wind increased to such a gale as render- edit necessary for us, in order to secure a har- bour, to run over to the Canada shore, and come to under Cape Aleneau. Lake Erie is perhaps the most dangerous to navigate of all the lakes, afford- ing no harbours, and almost one continued craggy, iron-bound shore. Another misfortune is, that the bottom is generally a smooth rocky surface. 104. unfit for anchoring; so that, if you are once caught with even a moderate gale upon a lee . - - - shore, there is no alternative but to slip your ca- ble and beat off, or suffer shipwreck. After having handed all our sails, we lay too all night under a double reefed fore-sail, and in the morning found ourselves, as it were, in the mid- dle of the ocean; no land was to be seen on either side. Towards evening the wind settled consider- ably, and before dark had abated so much of its violence as enabled us to set all sail. The lake, however, in the mean time, had become so agita- ted as to give a very disagreeable motion to the vessel, which rendered this night even more un- pleasant than the former. I was up long before day-light, looking out for the land, so impatient was I to be once more on shore. This pleasure, however, was denied me during the whole of that day, although towards evening we were close in the pleasing intelligence that we had come to an anchor under the town of Presque Isle. The distance of Presque Isle from Fort Erie is rel, merchandise fifty-cents a hundred weight, and lies in latitude 42. 10. N. and 80. 8. W. The land from Fort Erie Ferry, or Black Rock, up to Buffaloe Creek, and from thence to Chau. - with the land; but, about midnight, we received ninety miles. Freight is seventy-five cents a bar a cabin passage four dollars, including board. It 105 taughgue, which is sixty miles, appears to be low rich land, generally reputed healthy; it then rises suddenly to a great height, and has all the appear- ance of being a rough mountainous country, yet, I was informed, continues in general level and champaign. The whole distance between Presque Isle and Le Beauf, with one or two small excep- tions, I found a handsome, rich and level tract, and the roads so very miry that, even at this dry season, you would suppose you was travelling over some bottom. - -- Chautaughgue landing is so called from a seven mile portage communicating with Chautaughgue Lake, situated in that corner of our State which joins Pennsylvania, on Lake Erie. This lake dis- charges its waters through the Connewango River into the Alleghany, which meet the waters of Le Beauf and French Creek, at Fort Franklin, about one hundred and ten miles below this. The freight to Chautaughgue is the same as to Presque Isle, although thirty-three or four miles nearer. This is owing to Chautaughgue being as yet an en- tire new settlement, having but one house, and no vessels of its own. The time, however, will soon arrive when a seven mile portage, over a good road, will draw off all the carrying trade from Presque Isle, where the shortest portage will be fourteen miles. vol. I. o 106 The village of Presque Isle is regularly laid out, and contains at present about thirty houses; its situation is high, pleasant and healthy, and com- mands an extensive view of the lake and adjacent country; its chief support at present depends upon the transportation of salt to the head waters of the Ohio. - - The harbour of Presque Isle is not only large and spacious, with a good depth of water, but also affords good anchoring ground, and complete shelter from wind and sea; yet, on account of a sand bar which runs across its mouth, no vessel drawing more than four feet water can avail herself of these advantages. They talk, indeed, of opening a channel of sufficient depth to admit vessels draw. ing twelve feet water; but I am of opinion that, as the general ground swell of the lake beats in from that quarter, unless they can likewise open another for the roll of the sea, their labour will be in vain. - Vessels employed in navigating this lake are constantly exposed to the dangers of shipwreck, for the want of good harbours. Even here, at Presque Isle, a vessel comes to an anchor as near to the shore as she dare, when flats are sent out to unload her. This is often attended with great de- lays, as it frequently happens that a light sea will prevent these flats from going out for a week to. gether; and oftentimes the vessel is obliged to heave up her anchors and stand out to sea, to 107 avoid being dashed to pieces on a lee shore. This is the cause, and a very reasonable one too, I think, why freight is higher on this lake than on Lake Ontario. - Presque Isle is situated within what is called the .. Triangle,” being a tract formerly belonging to the State of New-York, but ceded in order to ac- commodate Pennsylvania with a convenient front upon Lake Erie. A certain company, known by the name of the “Population Land Company,” have purchased a considerable part of this tract, upon condition of making certain settlements within a limited time. This has not been fulfilled on their part, on account, as they allege, of “the “ United States being involved in a war with the “ neighbouring Indians, which prevented the emi- “gration of settlers.” In consequence of which a very considerable number of settlers had taken possession of several small tracts of their land, as wild lands of the State, and settled them under the con- ditions specified by a certain act of the legislature, made “for the encouragement of settlers settling “upon the western lands belonging to the State.” Many of these poor people, after several years struggling with the difficulties of a frontier settle- ment, had just began to reap the fruits of their well-earned labours, when they found themselves involved in a lawsuit with the Population Compa- ny, who, I am informed, have recovered the claims upon the ground before mentioned. None -- - 108 of the executions have as yet been carried into effect; and, if I may judge from the spirit and determination of some of the unfortunate sufferers with whom I have conversed, they are determined to defend what they consider as their lawful ac- quisitions with the last drop of their blood. The company are certainly justifiable in esta- blishing their just claims, yet, considering all cir- cumstances, it would be better to effect some kind of a compromise with the unfortunate settlers, rather than drive them to acts of desperation. This question, like many others of a local nature, has at length become blended with the divided politics of the State, and bids fair to give rise to a little insurrection. At least, it is my humble opinion, that the executions cannot be carried into effect without the shedding of blood. - There was formerly a considerable garrison kept at Presque Isle, and, if I mistake not, used to be the headquarters of that gallant old soldier General Anthony Wayne. The fort and other works are now rapidly going to decay, which is not much to be regretted, as they will scarcely ever be occupied again in case of an Indian war. Recollecting that the remains of General Wayne were interred at his particular request under the flag staff belonging to this fort, I was induced one morning to pay it a visit, expecting to find at least a decent, if not a sumptuous monument erected to his deserving memory; but, alas ! how fleeting 109 and short-lived is the remembrance of those who have served their country so well Where is the American who has not heard and admired the deeds and achievements of Wayne in quelling an Indian war, and restoring peace with its ten thou- sand blessings to the bleeding families of our fron- tiers? And where, let me ask, is his countryman whose eye refused a tear to his virtues on hearing of his decease? There is none, I believe ; and yet he lies neglected and forgotten The general’s grave had been once paled in, but time had rotted away the principal part. I replaced it; and should it stand a year, a month, or even for a day, I have performed a duty. At the head of the grave is a small misshapen stone, picked out of the rubbish of the fort, with A. W. the initials of the general’s name, scratched with a nail! Not even an epitaph. The wretched little space was yet unoccupied. Could I depart and leave it still a blank 2 No my friend I could not; but, with my penknife, engraved, in rude but le- gible characters, “shame on my country.” The portage from Presque Isle to Fort Le Beauf, or Waterford, as it has lately been named, is fourteen miles; carriage at one dollar and fifty cents a barrel, and merchandise at fifty cents a hundred weight. It is probable these rates may, in a short time, be somewhat lower, as a turnpike road over this route will soon be completed, w 110 ºf oad before this. What think you of starting when a team will be able to carry twice, or even thrice the weight they do at present. - Although I have travelled many hundred miles both in our old and new countries, and seen both rough and disagreeable roads, yet I never saw a - at sunrise, at this season of the year, when the days are longest, and making it dark night before you could whip and spur through fourteen miles of mud and mire 2 a great part of which is up to your knees while sitting on the saddle. No doubt you have seen people treading clay for making brick; had you seen me at the time of my arrival at this place, you would have sworn that man and horse were both brick makers, for both were lite- rally covered at least one-half inch thick with mud from head to foot. I flattered myself, while in this pickle, that two or three dozen plunges in the ri- ver, with all my clotheson, would be the most ex- peditious way of cleansing myself from the mud; but I was sadly disappointed when I arrived at Le Beauf, to find it necessary to proceed one mile far. ther to a small lake, as the river or creek was scarcely covered with four inches of water. Here I was under the necessity of borrowing a change of clothing, as my travelling trunk had not yet come on ; nor did I see any thing of the waggon until the next day, when it made its appearance with an additional yoke of oxen. The crippled condition of the waggon convinced me that it had 1 II. seen hard times; and, upon inquiry, I found the whole waggon and cargo (by one wheel running over the stump of a tree) had been overset in a deep mud hole. My travelling trunk and portable desk, being on the top of the waggon, were the first which went in ; and, as all the remainder of the loading fell more or less upon them, they were consequently the last taken out. My trunk be- fore this was not so heavy, but, upon an occasion, I could carry it a hundred yards; but, at this time, two teamsters could with difficulty take it from the waggon. Upon examination I found my clothing generally spoiled, my notes and pa pers defaced and torn, and a small travelling ther- mometer broken in a thousand pieces. My mis- fortunes were great, yet, as “whatever is is right,” I had no reason to complain. I ordered mythings down to the stream, and rolling up my sleeves to the elbows, endeavoured to make the best of so bad a bargain. The teams employed on these roads have gene- rally three yoke of oxen, who can draw no more than six barrels of salt, or other goods in propor- tion, and take from two and a half to three days to perform the route. - About two miles before you reach this village you ascend a small eminence which divides the waters of the Ohio from those descending into the lakes; the country otherwise continuing generally very level. The town of Waterford, which lies | 12 in latitude 41. 2. N. and 79, 53. W. is laid out on the site of old Fort Le Beauf, the chief part of which still remains, and the block-house occa- sionally is used for a chapel. The village con- tains twenty houses, and depends wholly on the salt trade and boat building for its support. The land about this neighbourhood is generally of a strong loam, but the climate has the character of being cold and variable, and subject to very late and early frost. Last night we experienced a very hard one, and this morning its effects were percep- tible in the common destruction of their melons and cucumbers, both in fields and gardens. Seve- ral of the oldest settlers have informed me, that it was no uncommon thing to have severe frosts in the months of May, June, July and August, while their more northern neighbours, along Lake Erie, are wholly exempted from these inconve- niences. This town has neither stone nor lime convenient for building; but being blessed with abundance of good wood, their houses are built entirely of this material. They likewise build a considerable number of boats, which always find a ready market below. I shall defer giving you a description of the boats made use of on the west- ern waters, until I have a better opportunity of examining them, especially as I am informed I shall find a considerable variety below, not made use of near the head waters. l | 13 Le Beauf Creek is at present a very small stream, and when largest not more than two rºds. wide. It is, however, advantageously situated to collect and receive in its channel the showers which fall on the neighbouring hills; so that five or six hours of any considerable rain will, in twen- ty-four after, raise the creek to a height of two feet. Advantage is always taken of these partial freshes, and if you are ready to start before the waters fall, you can always make a good passage. There was a very handsome fresh I am informed last week, when the creek rose to four feet, and afforded an excellent opportunity for descending the river; however, as I did not arrive in time for that con- Veyance, I must wait for the next. The sky at present looks somewhat promising, yet, should I be disappointed, and no rain fall within a day or two at farthest, I shall purchase a small skiff, so light that where she will not swim, we can jump out (Indian like) and carry her over a shoal. - L. has already so much experience that he can see a rock that stands above the water nearly as far as myself. I shall not, therefore, hesitate to make him my first mate. You shall hear from me again at Pittsburgh. Yours, Vºl. I. º - LETTER XI. Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, Fort Du Quesne, - September 9, 1807. Dear Friend, AFTER a passage of six days I at length arrived at the metropolis and emporium of this western world; but, before I proceed to say any thing of this rising and flourishing little city, I must return to Le Beauf, and accompany you down the river. As I always consider myself a favourite candi- date for fortune’s favour, when no great game is at stake, so it happened at Le Beauf; for on the Saturday night after my last it rained inces- santly, and on Monday morning the whole little village was in confusion with the preparations made the preceding day for starting of with the first of the flood. There were eight boats in company, the largest of which had one hundred barrels of salt on board. - After leaving the town, and descending Le Beauf Creek for half a mile, we entered a small 115 stagnant pool, likewise named Lake Le Beauſ, being about two miles in circumference; passing thence through the outlet five miles farther, we en- tered French Creek, which comes in from the left hand side. This stream is about sixty yards wide, and of a very gentle current, except in some few places, where it is obstructed by logs, drift-wood, or sand shallows. From its size and appearance it may with propriety be denominated a river; yet, it is very shallow, and consequently boats are subject to run aground. When this happens, all hands jump overboard, and, with the united exertions of two or three boats’ crews, generally make out to lift and shove a boat over the worst of the shoals. After descending the stream fifty-seven miles we arrived at Meadville, a very thriving and re- spectable village, containing about one hundred and twenty houses, and situated on the left bank of the creek. The country from Fort Le Beauf to Meadville, on either side of the stream, is a rich level tract of land, improving very fast; and the land immediately around Meadville is a beautiful rich meadow, yielding already great quantities of grain and other produce, as well as considerable droves of excellent cattle for transportation. About half a mile below this town the Cassawa Creek falls into French Creek, and is navigable for light craft about ten miles. From Meadville we descended thirty miles, passing a number 116. of scattered settlements, but no town until we arrived at Franklinville, (Fort Franklin) situated on the right hand side, at the junction of French Creek and Alleghany River. This little place contains no more than ten houses; it was a post of consequence during our late Indian wars; and the block-house and pickets of the old garrison still retain a tolerable appearance. It lies in lati- tude 41. 24. N. and 79, 50. W. The length of French Creek is about one hun- dred miles, and, throughout the whole of this dis- tance it is bounded on both sides by tracts of low, rich lands, among which are several natural prai- ties, producing a strong luxuriant grass, unob- structed by the growth of a single tree. These tracts, until very lately, have generally been con- sidered as of a light soil; but experience has shown them to be of the first quality. Here the emigrant may knock up a hut on the day of his arrival, set fire to the grass on the next, and on the third may plough up a field ; his only difficulty is that of fencing. Although I am of opinion that a tract of half prairie and half wood land must be a most desirable acquisition to a new settler, yet I have strong doubts whether a tract of the former, situated from one to five miles from any wood land, from whence all fuel, fencing and building stuff must be drawn, can be so eligible a situation as at first strikes our fancy. 117 The Alleghany river is certainly the most beau- tiful stream of water that I have ever seen; it is as clear and transparent as the lakes, and its current as gentle as can be wished, while its bed is so very little obstructed by shoals that it may be na- vigated in safety. It is true, when the water is low, you will find here and there a rock lodged in the channel; but, as it is always necessary to have a pilot on board, when descending with loaded boats, they are so well acquainted with these little obstructions that an accident seldom or ever oc. Clºse - - This river takes its rise in Pennsylvania, near the State of New-York, where it passes a short distance into the latter, and returns into the former; thence running the whole of the remainder of its COur Se through this State, until its junction with the Monongahela at Pittsburgh. It is navigable for a distance of two hundred miles. Another head water of this river takes its rise in Chautaughgue Lake, situate in the western ex- tremity of the State of New-York; thence passing down the Connewango River, falls into the Alle. ghany, about twenty miles after it passes the boun- dary line between the States of New-York and Pennsylvania. This route, as I have before no- ticed, being much the shortest, and affording a much easier portage between the two lakes, will, in the course of a few years, be preferred to that of French Creek and Le Beauf; but, as at present, 18 from the want of hands and boats, it does not in- sure so certain or ready a conveyance; it is very little frequented, and its advantages consequently but very little known. - After leaving Fort Franklin about nine miles, we were shown a large rock, on the left shore of the river, which is known by the name of * Indian's God.” I had the curiosity to land, in order to examine the “outlandish marks” which were said to be inscribed upon it; but, upon investi. gation, found they were nothing more than the ac- cidental crevices made by time, which might well enough pass for Arabic or Chaldaic characters with those who could not read their own mother tongue. The Alleghany River, at its junction with French Creek, is about twenty yards wide, and continues gradually to increase as you descend. The junction of Toby Creek with the main river takes place from the left hand side, about forty-five miles below Fort Franklin; it is a handsome stream, about forty yards wide, and navigable for small craft fifty miles. Fifteen miles lower we perceived Sandy Lick Creek coming in from the same side. This stream is somewhat larger than the former, yet not navigable for quite the same dis- tance. Passing thence seven miles, we crossed the mouth of Mahoning Creek. This stream is about forty yards wide, falls in from the left hand side, and is also navigable for small craft. After having 119 descended eighty-five miles from Fort Franklin, we arrived at the town of Armstrong, situated on the left bank of the river. This, being as yet quite a nGW settlement, contains no more than twenty houses. - - The land on both sides of this river, for the whole distance, from the junction of French Creek to this last named town, is a high, rough and mountainous country, and scarcely worth cultiva. tion along the banks of the river. This observa- tion, however, I am informed, does not hold good after you recede a mile or two from the margin of the river, where the land improves rapidly, both in quality and appearance. Twelve miles below the town of Armstrong, and from the same side, the Kiskemanitas River forms its junction with the Alleghany; it is the largest tributary stream you pass on the main river; is seventy yards wide at its mouth, and navigable for a distance of one hundred and fifteen miles. The acquisition of this stream is immediately per- ceptible, as the Alleghany now acquires a breadth of about one hundred and fifty yards. Three miles below the Kiskemanitas, and on the opposite side, we were instructed to look out for a small town called Freeport. This town brought to my reco- lection the story of “a country lad coming with “his father to see the town, but could never get a * sight of it for the vast number of houses.” So 120 here I could not see the houses for the trees, as those intended for the buildings had not yet been out down. Immediately below this town, and on the same side, you pass Buffaloe Creek, which is about thirty yards wide, but not navigable. From thence we descended thirty miles more, without meeting with anything worthy of notice, until we arrived at Pittsburgh, which is reckoned two hun- dred and forty miles from the head waters of Le Beauf. - As I write wholly for your amusement, I know you will not be displeased if I entertain you OCCā- sionally with an account of some of my exploits and achievements, as one of the mighty hunters of the western wilderness; and, therefore, with becoming pride, inform you that, on my passage to this place, I shot a bearſ yes, sir, I repeat it, I shot a bearſ! and a big one too he was. The particulars are worth re- cording, and are as follows: While we were de- scending the river one of our hands discovered a large bear swimming across the stream ; we exert: ed one utmost force to overtake him before he could reach the shore, which, by dint of hard row. ing, we effected. The captain and myself stood ready in the bow to fire whenever we thought our- selves sufficiently near for that purpose. I pulled my trigger, but my gun flashed in the pan. The captain then pulled his, and shot the bear dead. Not knowing whether I should ever have another | º 12] chance to shoot such a monster. I recollected * Falstaff's fight with Percy,” so primed and pulled trigger once more, and shot the bear too. Although the shot just mentioned was not ex- actly in point of time what I could wish, yet you must know, that on the same day, I really and “bona fide” shot a deer on the edge of the bank of the river. This being the first I had shot, al- though I had seen dozens of them before, inclines the to think the spell is broken. I discovered him as we descended the river; and, as he had not yet perceived our boat, we all sat perfectly still, until we had drifted close upon him, without his being in the least alarmed ; when I fired, and killed him on the spot, without any previous assistance from the captain. You would have been highly di. verted could you have taken a peep at our party while preparing and eating our supper on that evening. You will please to remember that, as we lodge every night under the canopy of heaven, we are not so much troubled with preparing our bed as with preparing our food; and, as our cook is not over and above cleanly, (not having anything better than a handful of leaves to wipe his uten- sils.) I prefer attending to a broil for myself. We had made choice on that evening of a place for our encampment, where a very large pine tree had been blown down by some storm; and, in a few minutes, our different crews had kindled as many VOL. I. Q. - 122 fires, which soon spread along the whole trunk of the tree, not less than one hundred and twenty feet in length, and exhibited as picturesque a groupe as ever was seen. Every man being provided with a forked stick, with a piece of venison stuck upon one end, was endeavouring to broil or roast his portion as best suited his fancy. Some would let it fall into the fire; others, who had laid it on coals to broil, could not again approach near enough to save it from burning, as the fire became so great, and the heat so intense, as to keep them at a distance. Those who had succeeded stuck one end of their forked stick in the ground, with the venison suspended upon the other; while, with a piece of bread in one hand, and a knife in the other, they contentedly devoured it as fast as it cooled. Our company consisting of forty-two persons, the deer did not furnish an overabundant supper, nothing being left for the morrow. I had never seen a wild turkey before I descend- ed this river, where I had an opportunity of shoot- ing a great many. They are very plentiful in this quarter, and considered the largest known through out the western country, many of them weighing from thirty to forty pounds, and sometimes so overburthened with ſat that they fly with difficulty. It frequently happens, that after shooting one on a tree, you will find him bursted by falling on the ground ; they are remarkably tame, and, if alarm- ed, generally take to a tree, especially if disturbed 123 by a dog. I found my air gun of great use in shooting this game, for if there were five or six of - them upon one tree, I was always sure of bringing them all down. - This river affords fine pike and cat fish; many of those I caught weighed thirty pounds and up- wards. There is no great variety of small fish in the main river; nor is there much chance of taking any of the larger kind during the day time, unless you troll with a very long line; but by setting your bait at night in the little bays and eddies, you will generally prove successful. I have been well as- sured that this river produces a fish which, from its resemblance to the alligator, is called the Alle- ghany alligator fish. Those who have seen them assure me they are perfectly harmless, and never exceed eighteen inches or two feet in length. Not- withstanding, during the whole navigation of this river, I was constantly on the look out to get a sight of this fish, yet I never succeeded, and, there- fore, am unable either to confirm or deny the ex- istence of this non descript. I have seen very few Indians since I left Lake Erie, excepting a few Sanduskies, who had been at the council meeting held at Buffaloe, and whom I met, as they passed through Presque Isle, on their way home. We likewise passed half a do- zen canoes full belonging to the Cornplanters, a tribe settled on the head waters of the Alle- 124 ghany, and which, I am told, is the only one that has prohibited the use of spirituous liquors to its members. Whenever an individual breaks through this regulation he is discarded from the tribe, and for ever after deemed infamous. Pittsburgh is most charmingly situated upon a point of land formed by the confluence of the Mo- nongahela and the Alleghany Rivers, which here give rise to the celebrated Ohio. The natural ad- vantages which this place possesses are so great, that it may justly be considered as the metropolis of the western country. It contains between four and five hundred houses, many of which would be called elegant even in the city of New- York. From the best information I could collect, it is supposed to contain at least two thousand five hundred inhabitants, the most of whom are German and Irish settlers, from various parts of Pennsylvania and Maryland. This town has likewise a number of public buildings, principally built of brick; among which you find a large and convenient gaol, court- house, market-house, and four churches. There are probably between sixty and seventy stores, generally well stocked with every kind of goods, and afforded reasonably cheap, considering the dis- tance they have to bring them over land from Philadelphia and Baltimore; the former of which places is reckoned two hundred and ninety-seven 125 miles, and the latter two hundred and eighty-five miles distant. The price of waggon carriage over this distance is five and six dollars a hundred pounds weight. - Pittsburgh has likewise a considerable number of factories established already, among which may be enumerated distilleries, breweries, printing presses, an air furnace, a glass house, and cotton factory; likewise, smaller establishments for the manufacture of nails, brushes, ropes, copper Wºrº; tin ware and earthen ware, with many others too tedious to mention. A branch of the Penn. sylvania bank has likewise been established here. Pittsburgh appears to be in the “full tide of suc- “cessful experiment,” and promises fair, within thirty years, more, to be the largest inland city in the United States. The climate is nearly similar to that of New-York, being situated in latitude 40. 26. N. and 79, 51. W. and subject to as great and sudden changes of weather. The goods intended for New-Orleans, Ken- tucky and Tennessee markets are principally ship- ped off from this place, although, during the dry season, which generally prevails in the months of August and September, the waters are so low that a loaded boat cannot descend the river. Those, however, who are accustomed to navigate this river, always make their calculations accordingly, and when they find they will not be enabled to reach Pittsburgh in time, generally order their 126 goods to Wheeling, another town, lying about ninety miles lower down the river, from whence the water is deep enough at all seasons of the year. - - The town of Pittsburgh is abundantly supplied with fuel, having inexhaustible mines of coal in its vicinity, which, from the cheapness of labour, are delivered at the houses for six cents a bushel. It is conjectured that not less than five thousand five hundred chaldron are consumed annually by the town and factories. The first entry into Pitts- burgh is not equally agreeable to every person, as the sulphureous vapour arising from the burning of coal is immediately perceptible; a few days re- sidence will, however, in a great measure accus: tom you to this inconvenience. Ship building is carried on here with considerable spirit; they have already launched about one dozen brigs and schooners; at present I see nothing on the stocks larger than a hundred feet barge Boat building, boat buying and boat selling, seem to be part of the business of at least one-half of the town, Very few of the boats which come from the rivers above, or are built in this town and descend the river, ever return again; so that there is a constant and increased demand for craft of every descrip- tion. A passage from Le Beauf to this place will cost you two dollars, finding your own provisions. If no opportunity offers you can have a small skiff 127 built in twenty-four hours for five dollars, which will carry two men and baggage, with which you may descend in all imaginable safety. For thirty dollars you may purchase a large skiff or batteau, which will very easily carry twelve thousand weight. The freight from Le Beauf to Pitts- burgh is one dollar a barrel, and merchandise at fifty cents a hundred pounds. The Monongahela River rises in the State of Virginia, at the foot of that ridge known by the name of the Laurel Mountains; it is navigable for one hundred miles from its mouth at Pitts burg. The Youghiogany River falls into the Monongahela, about fifeen miles above the town, and is said to be likewise navigable for eighty miles. - I was informed that there was a very curious cavern about sixty miles up the Monongahela, known by the name of the Panther's Den. I should have been happy, if I had leisure sufficient, to have visited it, particularly as I could not find any one who could give me a description from their own personal examination; but, as I have yet some thousands of miles before me, and the water rapidly falling, I did not think it prudent to lose time. I have purchased a keel boat com- pletely equipped for my voyage, for which I paid one hundred and thirty dollars. I have issued sailing, or rather drifting orders, for to-morrow morning, when I shall commence my voyage on * La Belle Riviere.” You will probably hear from me again when I arrive at Marietta, when I shall endeavour to give you some account of the different kind of boats in use on these waters. Yours, | | - Zºe Lyº ººz º ºn tº Zºzº Zºº. - º ººze. -- Jºº-Zºº º º - ººz - Zºe-P. Z/º. º Awarfs. Fails Cºenº sº ºr s º, º ºver + º º Zºzzanº S. - º/, as sº º: º - Mºrecarº N. - Zºº. = Zºº: Aºzºz º. N. Albany's - ºrth y o R. K. Lºore - ºzz - ºve … = |* /º/ron. º ºf eºſº | º - º W. º º zº º º/ = - i º ºf _- - = Zeedy Azoo/, w º º, - Aºzoz º. e Zººee/ º - º —Aſhlan) - § --> * > . Of the HUDSON and MOHAWK Rºers; º . */ /. … º. º 2 | º/ A. …/ º/, º º/ . /, * ( // - 2-Tº | º - - Lºzzº --~~~~ 20 º T- - - º - - º - ºzoº . slºw º v / . . . - - º 2 - - - / */º/, (Zºzºz. Cºrzºzºzo. %.” */ ^^Zº - - - - - - - -- *//q//zzº, ZºZº. Zºº, ºr, º - º - - - - - - - - Zºº º, (cº Zºº ///º º º Nºvº º ºs - *, * ~ * * ~ \ º - - - - - º - º - - - - * *onto from New Yo**** º = ºr & * =/=Zºrry Zºrn - ºzº - º Aºze ºnew-York ºw . ||||||| |Mºº lº immºn - 129 LETTER XII. Ohio, Marietta, (Fort Harmar) Sept. 20, 1807. Dear Friend, IN my last I promised to give you some ac- count of the different kinds of boats made use of on these waters, and shall now proceed to gratify your curiosity on that subject. The smallest kind of craft in use are simple log canoes; next follow perrogues, which are a larger kind of canoes, but sufficiently strong and capacious to carry from twelve to fifteen barrels of salt. Skiffs are built of all sizes, from five hundred to twenty thousand pounds weight burthen. Batteaux are the same as the larger kind of skiffs, and indifferently known by either name. Arks are not much in use on these waters; what few I have noticed were simi- lar to those you have seen on the Susquehanna. Kentucky boats are strong frames of an oblong form, varying in size from twenty to fifty feet in length, and from ten to fourteen in breadth; they are built of stout square timber, and, before they are sided and roofed in, have much the appearance VOI. I. R. - 130 of old graving scows, excepting that the front part or bow has somewhat of a rake. The gunwales are generally from twelve to twenty four inches high, and from three to six inches thick; on the top of these are mortised square joist of three or four feet in length, and four or five inches thick, which are sided up like a house with ordinary boards; on the top of these studs are secured the foot of each rafter, over which the roof is laid, which likewise answers the purpose of a main and quarter deck; they are steered by a long swing oar of the whole length of the boat, and generally have from one to three hands to manage a boat, having frequent occasion, when heavily loaded, to use their unwieldy oars, in order to keep nearly in the middle of the river. Some of these floating machines, with a shed roof, bear a very striking resemblance to what you daily see in the streets of New York, where new houses are building, and generally denominated a lime- house. New-Orleans boats are built upon the same model as the Kentucky boats, excepting that they are generally much larger and stronger, with an arched roof fore and aft. When I first saw a row of these boats lying high and dry on the shore at Pittsburgh, I really concluded they were de- tached pieces of some large rope walk which had been carried off by the freshes from above. The largest boats of this kind will carry four hundred 131 and fifty barrels of flour. Keel boats are very dif- ferent from what their name would seem to imply to a stranger who has never seen one, especially to an inhabitant of a sea-port, where the name is always applied to sailing boats, particularly those kinds that can beat up against a wind. Here, however, it is given to a species of the Schenec. tady boats, which you will find particularly de- scribed in my account of the navigation of the Mohawk River. The principal difference con- sists in this, that the timbers or knees of these are built upon a small keel, about three inches in depth, and four or five in width; from which cir- cumstance they are denominated keel boats. I have no doubt but the keel is an additional strength to the boat, as it receives the first shock. of any obstruction in the navigation, which other. wise would fall immediately upon the planking; but at the same time it makes a draft of three inches more water than Schenectady boats of the same size and burthen. These boats are generally built from forty to eighty feet in length, and from seven to nine feet in width; the largest kind re- quire but one hand to steer and two to row, in descending the Ohio, and will carry about one hundred barrels of salt; but, to ascend the stream, they will require at least six or eight hands to make any considerable progress. º The last and best kind of boats used on the Ohio and Mississippi is what is called a barge. 132 - You will have a tolerable correct idea of this kind when you see a ship's long boat, or those used at the ferry from the city of New-York to Long Island, adding thereto about three times the length and a proportionable depth, their width being ge nerally between seven and ten feet. These boats are steered by a rudder, and are easily managed while they have any way upon them; but when descending with the force of the current alone, are not so easily twisted and turned as a keel boat is by her long steering oar. A barge will carry from forty to sixty thousand weight, and requires four hands besides the helmsman to descend the river; but, to return with a loading, from eight to twelve become necessary. Barges, as well as keel boats, generally carry a moveable mast a-midships, and, whenever the wind will permit, set a square-sail, and some few top-sails. A small fleet of six or seven of these vessels -coming up before a wind, at a distance of three or four miles, is equally as pleasing a sight in this country, as an equal num- ber of the largest square-rigged vessels entering the harbour of New York. The prices of the various kinds of boats already described are as follows: Canoes from one to three dollars ; perrogues from five to twenty; small skiffs from five to ten dollars; large skiffs or batteaux from twenty to fifty; arks one dol. lar a foot in length; Kentucky and New-Orleans boats from one dollar to one and a half a foot; keel boats from two and a half to three dollars a 133 foot, and barges from four to five dollars a foot. These are the customary prices for new boats; but, from the constant influx of boats of every de- scription down the Monongahela and Alleghany Rivers, whose destination is no farther than Pitts- burgh, boats may often be had at very reduced prices. Having at length gone through with my account of the shipping of this western world, I shall proceed with that of my voyage, and inform you how I arrived at this place. The Ohio, immediately below Pittsburgh, ap. peared to be about six hundred yards wide. From this town to Fort Mºntosh is thirty miles. The and continues high on both sides of the river, excepting some small narrow bottoms near the river, which are subject to be overflowed with every considerable rise of the Ohio. Some of these heights are said to be very excellent land, and the produce, which is wheat, much more profita- ble than the bottoms, which yield nothing but corn. Before I left Pittsburgh I purchased a “Navigator,” a kind of “Blunt,” or “Hamilton * Moore,” for these waters; it is a small pam. phlet, but contains a great deal of useful and mis- cellaneous information, and particularly servicea. ble to a stranger. Fort M*Intosh, or, as it is sometimes called, Beaver, is a small village or town of about thirty houses, lying in the State of Pennsylvania, on the right bank of the river. Big Beaver Creek emp. ties itself into the Ohio just above the town, and 134. gives name to the village. This stream furnishes a number of very valuable mill-seats, within the distance of four miles from the river; and has likewise been said to afford an easy communica- tion by a short portage with Lake Erie; but, on inquiry, I am informed it can never be used by any thing larger than a canoe. Ten miles lower, on the left side, lies George. town, consisting of fifteen houses, and borders on the State of Virginia. The character of George town is not much esteemed by the navigators of the Ohio; it is particularly pointed out as being inhabited by a set of quarrelsome fellows, amongst whom their chief magistrate is said to be a very prominent character. About two miles below Georgetown you cross the dividing line between the States of Pennsylvania and Vir- ginia, on the left hand side of the river; and be- tween the States of Pennsylvania and Ohio on the right hand side. Five miles below the line, you arrive at the first post town in the State of Ohio; it contains two houses, and if it has a name I have forgotten it. This place is on the right hand side of the river. - Descending thence twelve miles we arrived at Steubenville, a handsome, flourishing town, situa- ted on the right bank of the river, likewise in the State of Ohio; it contains about one hundred and thirty houses, has a number of genteel brick buildings, and several stores well stocked with 135 every kind of merchandise. Superfine flour was selling here at the same price as at Pittsburgh, which was from three dollars to three and a half a barrel; Indian corn at twenty cents a bushel, and other articles of produce in proportion. Charlestown is also pleasantly situated on the left bank of the river, in the State of Virginia, and only seven miles from Steubenville; it contains about one hundred and ten houses, is a county town, and has a flourishing earthen ware manufactory. Buffaloe Creek is a capital mill stream, and falls into the Ohio, about three miles below Mingo Bottom, so called from its having been the resi- dence of a tribe of that name, whose chief is celebrated for his powers of oratory and his un- merited misfortunes in the Notes on Virginia.” * In the year 1774 a battle was fought near the present town of Point Pleasant, at the mouth of the Great Kanawa River, between the united tribes of the Shawanese and Min- goes, and a party of the Virginia militia. The Indians were completely routed, and sued for a peace. Logan (whose family had been most cruelly butchered, in cold blood, by a wretch of the name of Cresap) had taken a very active part in the war, yet scorned to be seen with those who were supplicating for a peace, Lest, however, the sincerity of others should be mistrusted on account of the absence of so distinguished a warrior, he sent the fol- lowing speech to Lord Dunmore, then Governor of Vir- ginia: - - - - - * I appeal to any white man to say if ever he entered “Logan's cabin hungry, and he gave him not meat; if ever - 136 The lands about Charlestown are not consider. ed equally good with those in the neighbourhood of Steubenville. Nine miles below Charlestown we passed a little town named Warren, situated on the right bank of the Ohio, and consisting of thirty houses. From hence, having descended ten miles more, we arrived at Wheeling, a town of considera ble trade and importance on these western waters. It lies in latitude 40. 5. N. and go. 34. W. This town is situated on an elevated bank, on the left side of the river, in the State of Virginia, and contains at present about two hundred houses, amongst which are a very considerable number of tº he came cold and naked and he clothed him not. Du * ring the course of the last long and bloody war, Logan tº remained idle in his cabin, an advocate for peace. such “ was my love for the whites, that my conntrymen, as they * passed, pointed, and said Logan is the friend of the white “ men. I had even thought to have lived with you, but * for the injuries of one man. Colonel Cresap, the last * spring, in cold blood, and unprovoked, murdered all the * relations of Logan, not sparing even my women and “ children. There runs not a drop of my blood in the * veins of any living creature. This called on me for re- º venge. I have sought it: I have killed many : I have “ glutted my vengeance. For my country, I rejoice at the “beams of peace; but do not harbour a thought that mine * is the joy of fear. Logan never felt fear. He will never tº turn on his heel to save his life, who is there to mouth * for Logan Not one.” l 137 stores, well supplied with every kind of merchan- dise, suitable for the country. It takes away a considerable trade from Pittsburgh, being so situated that vessels may descend from it during the dryest seasons of the year; many of the lower country merchants, therefore, prefer send- ing their goods over land to this place, rather than risk a detention of three or four weeks at Pitts- burgh. - - º A mail stage arrives at Wheeling regularly twice a week from Philadelphia, and another line- continues on to Lexington, the capital of Ken tucky, so that this town may fairly be considered as within the limits of the old settlements. The land immediately in the vicinity of Wheel- ing is rough and mountainous ; but, at some little distance back, improves very fast. Considerable boat building is likewise carried on at this place; and, if I may judge from the stock of one man, bear raising must be either an employment of profit or pleasure, as he had no less than five of these monsters, all nearly full grown, chained to as many posts in the front of his house; and, accord. ing to his own expression, “would rather lose his “ child than one of them.” This town is reckoned to be about ninety miles distant from Pittsburgh, according to the meanders of the river. Wheel- ing Creek falls into the Ohio about half a mile be- low the town, and affords some excellent mill. VOL. I. $ 138 seats, Not far from its mouth is still to be seen the remains of the old fort. º Seven miles below Wheeling we passed a little deserted village, of six or seven cabins, situated on the right bank of the river, and named Pultney. I could not learn from what cause it had been abandoned, but presume its inhabitants must have been of that class of people denominated Squat. ters, who, not having any title, had been ordered off by: the proprietors. From Pultney down to Grave Creek, which is eight miles distant, is a fine rich - tract of bottom land, on the Virginia shore, said to be worth from ten to fifteen dollars per acre, unimproved ; but, whether it is owing to the high price of the land, or to some other cause, it has very few settlements upon it. I was informed there were several of those sin- gular and astonishing mounds, which have exci- ted the curiosity of travellers, to be seen near Grave Creek. We had already passed them three or four miles before I was apprized of their vicinity, and I had some inclination to halt and travel up on foot, in order to take a view of them; but, as I had been told we should find a much greater variety as we descended to Marietta, I did not think it prudent to lose any time. Our pilot, inform. ed me that he had encamped one night, some years ago, on the largest of them, and described it as “ being about sixty or seventy feetin height, with 139 * the top cut off, and overgrown with trees of the “largest size.” Seacoal appears to be very abundant throughout this country, and in many places lying so convenient to the river, that you may lay a boat along side of the bank, and shovel it in with very little trouble. After leaving Pultney we passed a considerable number of settlements on both sides of the river, but saw no more towns until we arrived at Mari- etta, situated on the right side of the river, in the State of Ohio, at a distance below. Pittsburgh of about one hundred and eighty miles. This voyage is generally performed in five days, and a passage on board a trading boat will cost two dollars, exclusive of provisions. Freight to this place is one dollar a barrel, and merchandise at fifty cents a hundred pounds weight; but con- siderably lower when destined for a distance of eight or ten hundred miles. Most people, however, find it cheaper to purchase some kind of a boat, and freight their own goods; while those who travel for improvement or amusement will always prefer having a boat at their own com: mand, to being confined in one of the trading boats, where you can have no will of your own. To those who wish to travel as economical as pos- sible, it will be advisable to take a passage of board boats of the latter description, where the whole voyage to New Orleans, a distance of two - thousand two hundred miles, will not cost more than from five to ten dollars. The Ohio, as yet, has not produced us any fish, and, although this may be owing in some measure to a want of industry on our part, yet I am incli- ned to believe it is not so well stocked with fish as it has been represented to be. The river is sub- ject to rise very suddenly in many places, when the current becomes proportionably rapid. Fish generally seek for still water, and as this is only to be found in deep holes, or under projecting points of land, we are not to expect to find many in the stream. I have seen several dry salted cat fish which weighed twelve and fourteen pounds, and, probably, when first caught, not less than for ty. I have indeed been assured, by a respectable gentleman, that many are frequently caught which weigh from fifty to ninety pounds. I have seen a few cat fish, buffaloe fish, sun fish, perch, chub, suckers and herrings; but no sturgeon or pike. The herring, which here take the hook, are exact. ly the same with our long summer herrings, with this difference, that our's never take the hook. The river water is generally used by all the set- tlers on its banks for every culinary as well as ta- be use. This is a particular hardship to those ac- customed to drink clear water only; for, although the Ohio is equally well tasted with the best of brook water, yet, at this season, it is thick and turbid, and the thousands of dead squirrels putre- - 141 fying on its surface and its shores, contribute very little to render it more agreeable. The Ohio River, as far as I have seen, is cer- tainly the handsomest stream in our country, and continues, as I am informed, to improve in beauty and size as you descend. The velocity of the current at present is two miles an hour, and in freshes may be rated on an average at no more than three and a half. The stream is at all times smooth and gentle, very little obstructed by sunk- en logs or trees, so that, with keeping one hand to look out, you may glide along twenty and twenty-five miles of a night, in the greatest security. We have already passed twenty-seven islands, some of which contain upwards of one thousand acres of land; many, however, lie so low as to be entirely useless, from the frequent inundations oc- casioned by the sudden rise of the river. It is astonishing to what a height the freshes generally rise on this river; and, to you, it will appear difficult to believe that they frequently exceed forty feet of perpendicular height. The lodges of drift wood in the trees on the banks, as likewise the wharf at Marietta, however, fully confirm the truth of this assertion, the latter being forty feet in height, and the river at present three feet below its foundation. 142 In describing my course down the river to this place, I neglected to inform you, that five miles above Marietta, on the right hand side, we passed the Little Muskingum River, a considerable stream, which there falls into the Ohio; and, two - miles lower, on the same side, another considera ble, but smaller, stream, called Duck Creek. Both of these streams have a neat and handsome bridge across them, of which we had a full view in de scending the Ohio. The town of Marietta lies on the right bank of the Ohio; and is handsomely situated on both sides of the Muskingum River. The first im- provements, and consequently the most nume rous, were made on the upper side; but the lower being found to be one or two feet higher, consi. derable improvements are likewise making there. Marietta contains about one hundred and eighty houses, amongst which are several that may be considered not only genteel, but even elegant. It is a county town, has a market, printing office, several mercantile stores, and a great variety of mechanics. Ship building is carried on with more spirit than at any other town on the Ohio; and, notwithstanding the loss of two fine ships on the falls last year, there are now on the stocks three ships of about three hundred tons burthen each, and two large brigs, besides smaller craft. The former will be ready to descend the river with the earliest spring freshes, when they will be loaded 143 with the produce of the country, and ready to con- vey it to the the most distant part of the globe. The price for ship building here is fifty dollars a ton, rigged and equipped completely for sea. - These vessels are built on the Muskingum Ri- ver, which, although at present fordable, is a very considerable stream, being nearly two hundred yards wide, and navigable for keel boats one hun- dred and forty miles. One of its branches is said to communicate, by a portage of seven miles, with the Cayahaga, which empties into Lake Erie, and, when the waters are high, may be navigated to within one mile of each other. Fort Harmar, a post of some consequence in our late Indian wars, was built on the lower side of the Muskingum, it is now gone to ruin, as the increased population of the country has, in a manner, rendered it en- tirely unnecessary. - Marietta may be considered as New-England in miniature; her inhabitants are sober, honest, reli- gious and industrious, while dissipation and irra- tional amusements are not known in her friendly circles. I think I may venture to say, in propor- tion to her population, there is no town on this side of the mountains, not even excepting Pitts- burgh itself, can rival Marietta in the number of her enterprising and well informed citizens. This town lies in latitude 39. 25. N. and 81. 19. W. the climate is said to be far more temperate and settled than in the same latitude on the coast. - 144. The produce of the country is the same as with you, excepting that they raise some small crops of coarse cotton, calculated only for the manufacture of homespun. The only fruits I have met with, with which you are unacquainted, are the man- drake and papaw. The former grows in the crotch of a small shrub, in the open places of woods ; - in shape, size and colour it very much resembles - a lime, excepting the colour being of much lighter yellow ; in taste it approaches nearest to the pineapple. The papaw is about the size of a cucumber, and something of that shape, but is perfectly smooth; they grow in clusters of three, four and five together, on trees about twen- ty or thirty feet high. The fruit at this time is quite green, therefore I am unable to speak from experience, and say they are “truly delicious.” This tree, however, has one very peculiar quality, which seems to indicate the richness of its fruit, namely, that it is never found except upon the richest bottoms. I propose spending to-morrow in taking a more particular view of the ancient works and fortifica tions in the neighbourhood of this town, of which I know you will expect me to say something. I have already taken a cursory view of them; but, as I shall have an opportunity of resting here for a day or two longer, my next shall be devoted to this subject. - | 145 The ferry at this place, across the Muskingum River, is established upon a curious and yet very simple plan. They prepare a flat boat, with a sin- gle lee-board fixed to the middle of the upper side, which is then secured by a painter at each end to a strong hawser, stretched across the river from bank to bank; to the end of each painter is affixed a kind of travelling block, which runs along the hawser; and whenever the boat is to move, the stern rope is slacked up two or three feet, the lee-board let down, and she passes over to the other shore without any other assistance than the pressure of the current upon the lee-board. When they wish to return they re. verse the management, by taking in the slack of what was the stern rope, which converts the former stem to her present stern, when she proceeds as before to the opposite shore. Yours, W. Q. L. I. - - T 146 LETTER XIII. Ohio, Marietta, September 21, 1807. Dear Friend, BEING just returned from my excursion to examine what is called the Indian antiquities of this country, I now devote the evening to your amusement. My notes and observations, such as they are, must furnish the subject. If the small and imperfect samples of ancient fortifications found in our own State have excited so much wonder as to their founders, how much more cause have we for astonishment when view. ing works of such surprising extent and grandeur as those of the ancients in this part of our coun- try? - - - That a country, which has generally been reputed as buried in the most abjectignorance and barbarism, or but lately peopled by some accidental emigra- tion from that part of Asia which approaches very near to our continent, should produce such monu- ments of its antiquity, population, industry, and a competent knowledge of the arts and sciences to sae aeg) º– ！！ ！！ ） ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ºg º , ºg º £ © ® 2 º $ ！ Ķ Ķ Ķ ķ º ſă º ºſ ae ºff º £ © ® ſă º ºd ſº 8 （ Ē º ſº º- -------- - - - - - -- --- --- --~~~ --- - º - - - of the Ancient Fortification - - -** - - at MARIET TA: º, ºr, º/, ºn Zºº, ºz º.º. ººze zºº were ºzº Z. Zºzanº | 2 ºr ſº ºº: - º ºg º Lºs ºf Zºº ºrozzzzzy º ºzºº º Aºzº * Zºº ºzzºre º Zºº Azzº | * Zºº ºſºvº ZººZºº ºr zºº - --- - = ------- -- -------- --- --- - - --- - ºn, º' -- - - --- --~~~~ - --- - ------- - - Zºº yº tº ſae|--| ，|-| （） ： |- ） ：-） £._.- ：：：：：- O 147 plan and execute such mighty works as these, concerning which the traditions of the aborigines of this country does not retain even the smallest remembrance of the founders, is, if possible, more astonishing still, and seems to argue a degree of antiquity which few are willing to allow. - These works or fortifications, which enclose an area of about seventy acres, are within the town plot of Marietta, and are situated on the eastern bank of the Muskingum, about half a mile from the River Ohio, upon a second elevated plain, entirely out of the reach of the annual floods, which some- times inundate a great part of the adjacent coun. try. They consist of walls, ramparts and mounds of earth of astonishing magnitude and extent; some of a circular and semicircular form, and others in squares and straight lines. But, to be more particular, take my notes as they occurred. After ascending the second elevated bank, and advancing about seventy or eighty paces,” I entered at the south end through a large opening at the angle of two walls or ramparts about five feet in height; the one on the right hand extending to the north-east about one hundred and sixty-two paces; and the other, on the left, extending to the north-west about five hundred and sixty paces in length. These walls appear to be in a more * Not geometrical paces. 148 ruinous state than the others; but from what cause I am unable to say. One hundred and fifty paces north of the en- trance before mentioned, are two ruinous walls, portions of concentric circles, having their convexi- ties towards the south-east, each being one hun- dred and fifty-two paces in length. - About twenty-five paces farther to the north- west, commences the bank or wall which sur. rounds the great mound, being about breast high, in the inside of which is a trench or ditch from three to five feet deep, and about five or six paces wide. The great mound, which is in the centre, is of a pyramidical form, about thirty feet in height, one hundred and forty-two paces in cir- cumference, and, at the north-west end, has a passage or entrance-way of eight paces wide. One hundred paces to the north-west of the gateway of the great mound there is a smaller mound of an oval form. After leaving this little mound about the same distance, and still in the same direction, I entered the southern extremity of what is called the Little Fort, being a parallelogram of five hundred and thirty paces in length, and three hundred and seventy in breadth, its longest sides extending to the north-west, and lying parallel to the river. This fort has three entrances or gateways on each side; one in the middle, and one at each corner; each of the corner passages is covered or defend- 149 ed by a small elevated mound, and the middle gates by two. The walls or ramparts are generally from five to eight feet in height, and appear to be in a tolerable state of preservation. A small dis- tance to the west end, and on the outside of this fort, towards the margin of what was formerly the river, is the spot which has been designated as the burial ground of the ancients. - From the Little Fort about one hundred and forty-five paces, still further towards the north-west, stands the Great Fort, which is in the form of an oblong square, about five hun- dred and fifty paces in length, and five hun- dred and ten in breadth, having three passages or gateways on each side; but that on the south-west, or river side, is somewhat the largest. The walls are generally from five to nine feet in height, and fourteen paces in thickness at the bottom. From the large gateway, and at another on the river side of the wall, are two covert ways leading towards the river, about one hundred and forty-three paces in length. In the inside of the middle entrance of the south-west wall or rampart, is a singular and elevated square mound, extending parallel to the sides of the fort, sixty paces in length to the north-west, forty-eight in breadth to the north-east, and about eight and a half feet in height. It has likewise abutments at the centre of each side, form- ing gentle ascents to the top, excepting the side 150 - nearest to the wall, which has a covered way four paces wide, extending inward a few paces, when it likewise affords another passage to the summit. At the easternmost corner, on the right, there is another mound of the same figure and form as the last, although not so large, being no more than forty-four paces in length, twenty-two in breadth, and about five feet in height. This mound, from some unknown cause or other, appears in a far less perfect state than the former. At the southern- most corner, on the left, is a narrow, and some- thing of a half-moon formed parapet, about the same height, and eighty paces in extent, with a mound at the centre, which evidently appears to have been intended to defend the gate at that cor- ner. At the westernmost corner there is another of the aforementioned mounds, with abutments at each side, affording an easy passage to the summit; this one is about nine feet in height, seventy-six paces in length, and fifty-four in breadth. Exclu- sive of the works just mentioned, there are many smaller mounds and excavations, without the limits of the walls or ramparts; but in general so trifling and imperfect, when compared with what I have already described, as not to be deser- wing of notice. - - - There seems to be a considerable diversity of opinion among those who have examined these - works, respecting the original intention or design for which they were erected by the founders; for I5] while some, and among those several military cha- racters, who ought to be able to form a competent judgment, have pronounced them places of warlike defence; others have insisted that they were the mere towns of some peaceable people, and that the elevations which have been mistaken for forts and ramparts, were nothing more than the site of their temples, and the walls of their gardens ; and the elevated mounds, the sepulchres of their dead, or high places of sacrifice - I have already had occasion to acknowledge my ignorance of the art of fortification; I shall not, therefore, speak decidedly on this question, yet free- ly confess that I lean to the former opinion. The principal reason which has inclined me to this, is that of the two passages or covert ways already mentioned, which, by a gradual descent, lead from the principal fort to the lower grounds towards the Muskingum River. These, at this time, in consequence of the accumulation of soil and retro- cession of the water, are now three hundred paces distant; but, in all probability, the river flowed at the foot of these passages at the time of erecting the fortifications. The angles of all the figures I found corres- ponded nearly with the four cardinal points of the compass, particularly those on the north and south; those to the east and west had considerably more variation. The works, when viewed collectively 152 from the southern extremity, have the appearance of a triangle, whose two sides, extending from the eye, are equal, and of very considerable length. From a particular examination of the ground, I am clearly of opinion, that the southern extremity of the elevated bank, on which they are situated, was formerly the point of land which divided the Ohio and Muskingum Rivers; and that the formation and structure of the works were laid out with a particular reference to the ancient point and junc- tion of the two rivers; and, in all probability, were calculated to prevent any surprise from that quarter. - - Although, at present, these works do not seem calculated to afford that protection from an attack with artillery and musketry, which we might ex- pect from the improved state of the military science of our time; yet, when we consider the different arms made use of in those days, such as bows and arrows for long shot, and stones, javelins, &c. for close quarters, and that the walls and ramparts have, in all probability, lost at least one half of their ori- ginal height, we shall be of opinion that the works were sufficient for all the purposes intended. In deed, I have not the smallest doubt, were the whole lower plain examined by digging, it would be found to contain great quantities of driftwood buried by the repeated inundations of former ages: and thus prove, beyond all doubt, that the antiquity - 153 of these venerable works is even greater than the warmest advocates for this opinion have been willing to allow. The passages or spaces in the sides or walls of the ramparts, were probably used as gateways, and guarded accordingly. The mean distance between these gateways is one hundred and sixty-five paces; consequently the guard stationed at one gate was within hail of him who kept watch at the next. For what particular purpose the eleva- ted mounds or platforms in the Great Fort were intended I am unable to determine, yet think it not unreasonable to suppose, that they may have been raised for the site of some warlike engines, to discharge stones or other missile weapons upon a besieging enemy. What strengthens this opi- nion is, that each of these mounds commands a principal passage to the fort, and the largest one overlooks that which opens to the Muskingum, from which the covert ways extend to the low grounds, where, as I have before observed, the river formerly flowed. If therefore, these works, after a lapse of so many ages, still evince such evi- dent signs of skill and design in their founders, it is but reasonable to suppose, that when they were first erected, they were even more perfect, and that they may have been surrounded with pickets, pali- sades, and other temporary works, which, being WOL. I. U. n 154 of a more perishable nature, have entirely disap- peared. - Works of a similar kind, although less com- plete and extensive, have been discovered in va. rious parts of our country, from the banks of Lake Ontario, and the waters of the Unadilla, in the State of New-York, to those of the Mississippi, in the Territory of Louisiana. The State of Ohio, particularly, abounds with them. The works of Marietta, although astonishingly large, are said to be much less than those which have been found in the interior, some of which enclose an area of six hundred acres, with the walls and ramparts proportionably large. Smaller specimens of these works are found at Grave Creek, above Marietta, and at Galliopolis, below; while those of larger dimensions are on the waters of the Sciota and Miami Rivers. - There is one thing worthy of remark with re. spect to the structure of these works, which is, that excepting the small ditch, already mentioned to surround the great mound, no other ditch or ravin is to be found throughout the whole extent of these immense works; and, as they are situated upon a natural plain, it is evident that the whole of the ground necessary for the elevation of the walls, mounds and ramparts must have either been brought from a distance, or taken up regu- larly from the whole surface of the plain. The few excavations which are found would have af. 155 forded too trifling a quantity of earth to be taken into consideration; and these, no doubt, were made for the purpose of procuring water, but have since been washed full of earth by the rains. I have been informed, that in digging in some parts of the fort to a depth of five feet, large bo. dies of trees, with fragments of earthen ware, pieces of copper of a semicircular form, and some small beads, and ornaments of the same metal, have been found. This proves that the ancient floor of the fort was considerably lower than it is at present; and that an accretion of soil, from the decomposition of trees, and other vegetable mat- ter, has added a layer of several feet in thickness over the floor or bottom of the fort. On another occasion I learnt, that in digging wells on the lower plain, frequent and indubi- table proofs of former habitations are found, and particularly on one occasion, about five or six feet below the surface, a hearth of stone, with frag- ments of seacoal, was discovered. Seacoal is found in abundance up the Muskingum River, and a fragment, therefore, might easily have been brought here by the natives of that day. But still I am of opinion, that if such a hearth, in such a situation, has really been found, it cannot be the doings of those who erected the works on the upper plain; but of one of some nation who succeeded them, after a lapse of many intervening ages, as the whole lower plain must have been formed since 156 that period. Another difficulty likewise strikes me as forming an insurmountable objection to the idea that this lower plain has ever been a perma- nent settlement. It is now well known that the beds of the Ohio and Mississippi, like all other large rivers, are continually wearing away by the violence of the freshes, to which they are so often subject. From this fact a natural inference is, that at some remote period, the bed of the river may have been five feet higher than it is at present, and consequently the general level of the river elevated in the same degree. Therefore, as the hearth was discovered five feet below the present surface of the plain, the situation must have been in all re- spects similar to one ten feet lower than the pre- sent banks of the river, consequently unfit for any thing more than a temporary habitation during the lowest stages of the water. Indeed it is not un- common for a fresh to swell the river, even at this day, to such a degree as to inundate the town of Marietta with two feet of water; and, were the banks five feet lower, (the depth the hearth is said to have been found,) the town would be uninha bitable the greatest part of the year. Some years ago a number of gentlemen deter- mined to open the great mound, in order to ascer- tain, by an examination of its contents, the use for which it was erected. After much labour, they at length discovered the bones of a person neatly covered over with flat stones, of the same kind as 157. those now found in the bed of the river, from which, in all probability, they were taken. No- thing further was discovered; but, in order to preserve the work for a more successful attempt, the mound was closed up as before ; since which it has remained untouched. Some of the smaller mounds in the interior have been opened and examined, and, from the circumstance of human bones being found, have been considered as the sepulchres of the ancient inhabitants. In most of these the bones ap- peared to have been laid together promiscuously; yet in some few, towards the summit, a single skeleton has been found, generally accompanied with some warlike weapon, such as stone arrow- heads, and a kind of battle axe of the same mate- rial, together with pieces of earthen ware, intended no doubt as the monuments of some favourite chiefs. It does not appear that any thing but ornaments, arms, and fragments of earthen urns, have as yet been found in any of the examinations which have taken place, which is somewhat surprising, as we cannot have a doubt but tools of some kind were necessary in the construction of such works: and that the fragments of some, at least, have been buried. Can this be for the want of proper search, or is it owing to the perishable nature of the ma- terialsº I feel inclined to adopt the latter con- clusion, upon the supposition that they used no- 158 thing but sacks made of skins, and a kind of earthen scoop or plate, the fragments of which are still found, but are now known under the im. posing title of urns. Although you may suppose this hypothesis to accord but ill with the genius of a people capable of rearing works which not only display a degree of mathematical precision, but, likewise a competent knowledge of the art of pot- tery; yet, upon reflection, I feel almost confirmed in the opinion. In those early ages, when the arts were less known, and these nations not stationary, it was much easier to procure sacks, which might be used for many other purposes than to build intrenchments; and they were likewise more con- venient to be transported, either by land or water, than as many wheel or hand-barrows, or such like modern instruments. The soil, in general, is of a very loose texture, and, therefore, does not require sharp instruments to remove it: allowing, there. fore, that sacks, of convenient sizes for one or two men to carry, were used instead of our modern barrows, we shall no longer be surprised that “no * tools” of this kind have been discovered. I am likewise informed, that the few ornaments which have been found in these works differ not only in form and figure, but are likewise of supe- rior workmanship to those generally found through- out the country. If this be true, I think it argues strongly that two or more separate and distinctna- tions have, at different periods, inhabited this coun- 1.59 try; but that the ancient aborigines, like those of Asia, were more enlightened than their successors of a later period. - As to the antiquity of these surprising works, I know of no data which may guide us with any de- gree of certainty to a conclusion. The only cir- cumstance which has come to my knowledge, and can give room for conjecture, is, that some gentle- men, at the early settlement of this place, had seve- ral of the largest trees cut down in order to ascer- tain their growth, which is readily done by enu- merating the concentric circles found on each. On the largest they counted four hundred and seventy, which denoted an equal number of years; and, from other good evidence, they discovered signs of a previous growth, probably of the same extent, which gives a period of nine hundred years. This evidence, however, only goes to show they cannot be less than nine hundred years old; but how many previous growths of four hundred and se- wenty years each may have vegetated and mould ered away, remains for each one to determine as his reason, prejudice, or superstition may permit. Yours, C. S. 160 LETTER XIV. Cincinnati, (Fort Washington.) October 4, 1807. Dear Friend, BEFORE I left Marietta I made an excursion in company with L. on the opposite shore, for the purpose of looking after some lands. This excursion was chequered with such a variety of adventure, that I cannnot withhold from you the particulars. It having rained hard during the fore part of the day on which we intended to set out, it was late in the afternoon before we departed from Marietta; but, being informed that the road was plain, and our object only twelve miles distant, we set off about five o’clock, expecting to reach our destination before dark. When we arrived at the ferry we lost near an hour before we could obtain an answer from the opposite shore, when, at last, we were informed that the ferryman had gone a hunting, and they had no one to bring the boat over. We were now under the necessity of riding 161 three miles farther to another ferry, where we had the good luck to get landed on the other shore. It was now sunset; I therefore felt inclined to stay at the ferry for the night; but my companion, not being much pleased with the expedition, and in great haste to have it ended, prevailed upon me to proceed. We were informed that the inhabitants were opening and straightening the old road, and were instructed to take the new cuts, as being the shortest, and always leading into the old road again. We accordingly pushed on hard, and, it being now almost dark, I thought we could be at no great distance from Sharp's inn, who, I was in formed, lived on this land; but could neither discover signs of a clearing, nor hear the noise or lowing of cattle. we still rode forward, antil it be. came so dark that we could not go off a walk. We had followed the last new cut of the road (which we could yet distinguish from the whiteness of the stumps) until it ended abruptly in a thick woody bottom. Alighting from our horses, we examined the wood all around us for the com: munication with the old road, but could discover no trace of it; we then returned on our steps for some distance, when I thought I could perceive (by the reflection of the light of a star on some water) the ruts of the old road, so, without more ado, I turned my horse's head that way, when, in an instant, Iſound myself and horse, with my come vor. I. - º - 162 panion and his, who was close at my heels, at the bottom of a creek or rivulet, having slid down the steep side of a bank, twelve or fifteen feet in height, without having received any injury whatever, After recovering from our fright, we endeavoured in vain to regain our lost situation, as the steep- ness of the bank rendered it altogether impracti. cable. What to do we knew not—to retreat, we could not recover the road—to advance, we knew not where to go—therefore to stay where we were, up to our horses' knees in water, was our only al- ternative. We continued in this situation, on our horses, an hour at least; for as we could not get out of the creek, it was to no purpose to dis- mount and stand in the water, the night being of itself sufficiently cool. The distant howlings of the wolves, in the early part of the evening, did not in the least intimidate us; but, after an hour or so, we found them becoming such near neighbours, that we began to recollect all the dreadful tales and dis. asters which we had heard upon our travels. Be. ing totally unarmed, L. made out to cut off a good cudge from the root of a tree projecting from the bank, with which he occasionally would strike on - the bank, or against some fallen tree; for as we - concluded that silence was a mark of cowardice, we took care to make as much noise as we could, in order to let the wolves know we were not afraid of them. All this, however, did not prevent some of them from approaching to within two or three 163 hundred yards of us, as near as we could judge from the clearness of their horrible yells; so that I really began to doubt the efficacy of our noise- making, and concluded that some motion of our horses would answer a better purpose; or that we might as well be drowned as devoured, or even frightened to death. I had no sooner made this determination than Iturned my horse's head up the creek, resolved to follow it as far as was practica. ble. I had proceeded about one hundred yards, and began to flatter myself with a prospect of suc- ceeding, when, in an instant, Imy horse plunged over head and ears into a deep hole, and before I could well ascertain whether I was riding or swim- ming, he had clambered up a gentle ascent, and stopped on the opposite bank of the creek. Although my situation was far from pleasant, being now wet as well as cold, with a pros- pect of spending the night in the woods, without even a steel or flint to strike a fire; yet I ne- wer laughed more heartly than at the scene which ensued. Poor L, who was close behind me, re- collecting that for want of a tight rein he had just before made a perpendicular descent of fifteen feet, was determined to be very cautious in future; as soon, therefore, as he perceived my horse disappear, he prudently drew back. How. ever, upon hearing that I was safe on the bank, he had no great inclination to continue in the 164 creek; yet there was no other way of getting out but through the same pool. I must cut him a long stick, with which he would sound the hole. He swore there was no bottom. Perhaps it was mud. dy, and his horse might stick fast. Was there no roots or brush which might entangle his horse's feet? Could his horse climb the bank 2 and a dozen other previous particulars. I finally told him I had discovered the road, which soon deter. mined him, and in he plunged. After recovering the bank, we perceived that the wolves had taken a more respectful distance, most probably frightened by the plunging of our horses: we dismounted and tied them to a tree, and having traced a small circuit around them, continued walking until one o’clock, in order to keep our- selves warm. About this time the moon arose, and gave so much light as to induce us to try to recover the road; but, after an ineffectual search all around us, I concluded, that as we were as wet as we could be, (and I recollected we were in- formed that Sharp lived upon this creek.) the best thing we could do was to descend into the creek once more, and pursue its course until we reached his house. We accordingly attempted it, and, after creeping under trees, leaping over logs, and getting half a dozen more duckings, discovered a clearing, which soon led to the house, where we arrived about three o'clock in the morning. i55 The chief topic of conversation at present along the Ohio is Burr's late expedition, and his pend- ing trial. Marietta was what may be styled the head-quarters in this business; not that many of its citizens had embarked in his schemes, but rather as forming a kind of central point for the ºperation and equipment of his flotilla. From every information which I have been able to col- lect, this affair still remains enveloped in a cloud of mystery. That Burr ever seriously meditated a separation of the western states is highly impro bable; he too well knew the enthusiastic at- tachment of the inhabitants to our present govern- ment. The seizure of the Spanish dominions, without the immediate aid of Wilkinson and the army, is equally absurd, as his whole force would not have amounted to more than three hundred men. And, lastly, his intended settlement on the Washita appears equally distant from the real object in view; for here it is a well known fact, that what little preparations had been made, were more for a military than agricultural expedition. In short, I have conversed with some who were on board the fleet, who laugh at the idea of “leaving “ their friends and families, and a healthy country, “to go and settle a swamp, in the most unhealth “part of all Louisianaº - 166 - as - The only rational conjecture, and which is the prevailing one in this country, is, “that as the “ prospect of an immediate war between the United * States and Spain at that period appeared to be “unavoidable, Burr's primary object was the sei- “ Zure of Baton Rouge, and afterwards of Mexico, “ with the aid and assistance of Wilkinson’s army; * but matters having been mysteriously arranged “ with the Spaniards, Burr, notwithstanding, perse. “vered in his plans; and, had the counsel an ºt º * º: º: º º 3% * * * ºk * º: # tº * * º: … º: * 3: tº * º: º: º sº º: * * * º: º: * º: º: º º: 3: * agº º * º: * * º 3: * º: * º º º * º: … º: º: º: “ until he was denounced to the government; and “thereby frustrated a scheme which, had it suc- “ ceeded, would probably have secured an empire. 167 “(without endangering our own) to one whose “daring genius and towering ambition at least as “well deserved it as Bonaparte, into whose hands “it will probably soon fall.” I believe I neglected to inform you, in my last, that since I have navigated the Ohio, I have had the honour of being promoted to a captaincy; yet such is the case. I should scarcely have thought of the circumstance again had not a fellow just now º me mister; for having become familiarized to the appellation of “captain,” it appeared some- thing like an attempt to diminish my consequence. In order that you may understand me better, you will recollect that I informed you I had purchased a keel boat at Pittsburgh, and hired two hands, be- sides a passenger who volunteered as a pilot; con- sequently I became the master; and here the master of every boat, should she even be no larger than a canoe, is always a “captain.” Cincinnati is four hundred and ninety miles from Pittsburgh, but, before I proceed to give you an account of that place, it is necessary you should know how I got there. After leaving Marietta we descended eight miles, and arrived at Vienna, a small town, con- taining twelve houses, pleasantly situated on the left side of the Ohio, in the State of Virginia, at the mouth of the Little Kanawa River, which here discharges itself into the Ohio. This is a thick 168 and turbid stream, navigable for ten or twelve miles only, and about one hundred and thirty yards wide at its mouth. Immediately opposite is another small settlement, called Bellepre; and one mile below, is Blannerhasset’s Island. This name, I presume, by this time, is quite fami. liar to your ear, as the proprietor was to have been Burr's first admiral in the intended expedition to Mexico. The house being large and spacious, and the grounds laid out with a great deal of taste and elegance, afford a very striking contrast to the rest of the country, which, being still in a state of nature, conspires to render this little elysium the most enchanting spot I ever saw. As it is extremely tedious for me, and must be equally unprofitable for you, to run over a dull list of all the trifling dry creeks we pass, I shall, in future, confine myself to describing such as may be considered of some consequence, re. ferring you to the maps for those of minor im. portance, the most of which, at present, have not any water, and are generally denominated dry creeks. - Big Hockhocking River falls into the Ohio twenty-five miles below Marietta, is navigable for about sixty or seventy miles, and is one hundred yards wide at its mouth. Some considerable set- tlements are made towards its head; and several saltsprings, of no very great strength however, 169 are found in its vicinity; as likewise iron ore, and coal in abundance. The mouth of this river lies in latitude about 39. 11. N. and 81. 36. W. Belleville, a small settlement of half a dozen houses, lies three miles below Hockhocking, on the Virginia shore. Forty miles farther down is Letart's Falls, the name of which, to stran. gers, is always more terrific than the passage. These falls, so called, are nothing more than a considerable ripple, over which a person may de- scend in a canoe in safety. The ripple is caused by the obstruction of part of the channel with rocks; but those who have the least acquaintance with water courses will immediately perceive the deepest part of the channel. - Point Pleasant is handsomely situated on the Virginia shore, at the confluence of the Ohio and Great Kanawa Rivers; at present it contains no more than thirteen houses, but from its situation will continue to improve. The Great Kanawa falls into the Ohio two hundred and seventy-two miles below Pittsburgh. One branch of it rises in North Carolina, while another, in an opposite direction, almost interlocks with the head of the Monongahela. It is about two hundred and sixty yards wide at its mouth, and is navigable nearly two hundred miles, though with considerable ob- structions. I was here shewn the place where a severe engagement was fought between the Pela- V. O. L. I. º 170 wares, Shawanese and other Indians, and a de tachment of the Virginia militia, which finally ended in the defeat of the Indians, great numbers of whom were shot and drowned in attempting to cross the river. Galliopolis is situated four miles below Point Pleasant, on the right side of the river, on a low rich tract of land. It was first settled by a num- ber of French families, and is said to have once contained near one hundred houses. At present it is fast declining, most of the inhabitants having removed, in consequence of the sickliness of the place. The land immediately back of the town is low, having several stagnant ponds and marshes, which, no doubt, are the cause of its un- healthiness. This evil, I am of opinion, might easily be remedied, and at a very trifling expense, considering the magnitude of the object. When- ever the river is high, and overflows its banks, a considerable current sets through these ponds; this is evident from the quantity of driftwood lying upon their margins, which could have got there by no other means. Taking advantage of this circumstance, when the water is low, a canal or sluice might easily be opened to the river both above and below the town, which, passing through these ponds, would, with every rise of the tide, overflow them, and thus effectually free them from the stagnant matter which they contain. 171 The compact part of the town at present consists of about twenty-five houses; and the land on which itstands has evidently been formed by accu- mulations from each successive flood. At present, by some change in the course of the current, it is fast washing away again; so that, in all probability, in fifty years to come, even the site of Galliopolis will be forgotten. Trees which have been buried for ages, are now seen exposed in every part of the bank, as it daily tumbles into the river. I was in- formed that a very valuable salt spring had lately been discovered, not far from the town; but as I had already taken my departure before I was apprized of this circumstance, I had not an opportunity of examining its strength and quality. There are several Indian mounds to be seen in this neighbourhood; but as they may be considered as trifling, when compared with those I have already described, I know you will not thank me for the little I can say on the subject. The land on the Virginia shore is much more elevated than that on the Ohio side, and along the river is said to be equally good; but the greatest proportion of bottom land is evidently on the Ohio shore. - - After leaving Galliopolis, we descended fifty- eight miles, without passing any thing worth noti. cing, except scattering settlements on both sides of the river, till we arrived at the mouth of Big Sandy, River a considerable stream, but not navi- 172 gable. This river falls into the Ohio from the left, is the boundary line between the States of Virginia and Kentucky, and lies in latitude 38. 25. N. and 32. 23. W. I may probably be detained here for a day or two, as I have to procure a new set of hands, the engagement with those I have hitherto had having expired. It is therefore likely you may hear from me again before I set off from this place. Yours, 173 LETTER xv. Newport, Kentucky, October 6, 1807. Dear Friend, - MY last left us, I think, at Big Sandy River, three hundred and thirty miles from Pittsburgh. Twenty miles below this river we passed the French Grant, which is a tract of twenty thousand acres, in the State of Ohio, granted by Congress for the relief of the French inhabitants of Galliopolis, as some indemnification for the failure of their titles to the land they first settled on. Most of them, however, have transferred their rights, and fixed themselves on the Mississippi, very few having attempted a second settlement on the Ohio. De- scending from thence eighteen miles, we arrived at the mouth of the Great Sciota River, which is said to flow through a tract of the richest land in the State of Ohio. - - º The Great Sciota is a very considerable river, being about one hundred and eighty yards wide at 17:4 its mouth, and navigable for a distance of one hundred and ninety miles; it likewise affords a Very easy communication with Lake Erie, ap- proaching to within three miles of a branch of Sandusky River, which empties into that lake. The waters of this river are said to possess strong petrescent qualities; and when the stream is low, a variety of specimens of petrefactions may be found in its bed. We had not the good fortune to arrive at such a time; for although the Ohio. continued low, the Great Sciota, from some heavy rains above, was very full, and marked its cur- rent quite across the middle of the Ohio. It lies in latitude 38. 44, N. and 82. 49. W. - Chilicothe, the seat of government for the State of Ohio, is about sixty-six miles from the mouth of this river, and is said to contain about one hundred and fifty houses, many of which are large and elegant buildings. The situation, I am told, is not very eligible, on account of the low- ness of the ground, which makes it very unhealthy, and subject to periodical fevers. On the right bank of the Ohio, and about a quarter of a mile above the mouth of the Great Sciota, is the site of a small town called Portsmouth; and on the op- posite side of the same stream, another, named Alexandria, containing eight houses. Both of these towns are quite new settlements, and situa- ted on a narrow strip of rich bottom, of only three- 175 quarters of a mile in depth, behind which the land suddenly rises into hills and mountains. - Vangeville is another small town, of half a do- zen houses, situated on the Ohio and Salt Creek, in the State of Kentucky, about twenty-one miles below the Great Sciota. Two or three miles up this Creek are found some very good salt springs, where some considerable quantities of salt are made. The price at the works is two dollars a bushel of fifty pounds. This creek was perfectly dry at the time of my arrival, nor is it navigable at any time. The salt springs of Vangeville bear no kind of comparison with those of Onondago, either in strength or quality, requiring three hundred gallons of water to make one bushel of inferior salt. They have about two hundred kettles of twenty-five gal- lons each, in constant operation, and when the brine is strongest, will make about forty bushels in twenty-four hours; but as the springs are sub- ject to be inundated with every rise of the river, the works are frequently stopped altogether. The land from the Kentucky line, at Big Sandy River, to this place, which is a distance of seven ty miles, presents a rough and hilly country, as far as can be seen from the river, excepting some small bottoms, alternately found, first on one side and then on the other. 176 This country appears to be completely over- run with innumerable quantities of black and grey squirrels. The river, since we left Marietta, has afforded us an abundant supply of these ani- mals, without any trouble on our part, as our boat had continually five or six of them on board, who clambered up the oars in order to rest them- selves. I have counted no less than forty-seven at one time swimming across the river in differ- ent directions. The shores on each side of the ri- wer are literally lined with drowned squirrels; and I suppose that one third at least of those who take to the river perish in the water. They all ap- pear to be migrating to the southward. Higher up the river we found them very ſat, and they af. forded us many delicious repasts; but they have now become too poor to be eatable. Although, in one of my formerletters, I descri- bed the navigation of the Ohio to be perfectly safe, yet experience has shewn me it is at least necessa- ry to keep a constant look out. We were about three miles below Salt Lick Creek when our boat drifted very gently against a pointed log or snag - which was barely covered with water. The boat was under such moderate way, that we had not the least idea that she was injured, as she wheeled around and continued her course. I soon, how- ever, perceived the water rising fast over the time bers, and at the same time heard a rippling º 177 noise, which I at first supposed was occasioned by the current, but was soon convinced that it pro- ceeded from the leaking of the boat. I removed some of the baggage, and perceiving the water gushing in with violence, thrust an old great coat into the hole, and directed my men to make for the shore, where we unloaded, and drew the boat out of the water. On examination we found one of the plank stove through; but by means of a thin piece of board and a few nails, we soon covered the facture, and payed it over with some of the rich mud of the Ohio, which, on this occa- sion, answered all the purposes of tar, without the trouble of boiling. - After repairing the boat, and reloading our trumpery, we set forward again, when, just as we turned a short bend in the river, we discovered a bear that had taken to the water, with an intention of crossing to the opposite side. We immediately manned our oars with all hands in order to come up with him, but all to no purpose, for as soon as he perceived our intention, he prudently turned about, and recovered the shore he had left be. fore we could come within gun shot. We had better luck, however, in the afternoon : seeing a deer make the same attempt, we despatched two hands in our light canoe after him, who, after cut- ting him of from the shore, and forcing him again ºf QI. I. Z. - 178 to the middle of the river, determined not to shoot him, but give him fair play, and either take him alive or suffer him to escape: after a chase of nearly five miles, they seized him by the horns and dragged him ashore. - Eleven miles below Salt Creek I was informed we should pass a town called Adamsburgh, and, although it was noon day when we arrived at the place designated, I could not see any thing like it, unless two solitary huts were intended by our informer. Manchester lies six miles lower; it is situated on the right bank of the river, in the State of Ohio, and contains eighteen houses. Just above this town lies an island, which divides the river into two channels. Finding ourselves nearest to the one on the right shore, we entered that, but it was with the utmost difficulty that we forced our way through it. We all jumped overboard in or- der to lighten the boat, when, by lifting and drag. ging her, and shifting our baggage fore and aft, as occasion required, we succeeded in getting through. This channel is fast filling up, and the probability is, that in a year or two more it will be altogether impassable. - You will naturally inquire why I have said no- thing respecting the trade of the numerous towns already described on the Ohio? One answer will serve for the whole, viz. they are all too new to attend to any manufactures further than their 179 º immediate necessities require, and, therefore only serve as points for transporting the surplus produce - of the adjacent country down the Ohio. This, and boat building, in which all the more considerable towns are engaged, constitutes the whole of their trade. Ten miles below Manchester is likewise said to be a town called Liberty, which, although situated on the bank of the river, cannot be seen for want of a few houses. This I am informed will be the case with a number of other towns down the river, where town making has been car. fied on with considerable spirit. There is only one difficulty they have to overcome, in order to ensure success to the whole, viz, half a dozen houses to each town, and half a dozen inhabitants to each house. After passing this intended town of Liberty about two miles, we arrived at Lime- stone, situated on the left bank of the river, in the State of Kentucky, four hundred and twenty miles distant from Pittsburgh. It lies in latitude 88. 36. N. and 83. 38. W. Limestone is said to be the oldest settlement in the State of Kentucky. The town, which con- sists of about eighty houses, is built on a flat in a bend of the river, and commands a pleasing view of the stream both above and below; and, from the great number of boats of every description ly- ing along the shore, must have a very considera- ble share of business. Ship building, I was in- 180 formed, is likewise carried on with much spirit, but I saw nothing of the kind going on while I was there. - The river had made very considerable encroach. ments upon the town, by washing away the banks; so that in some places there is barely room between the houses and the edge of the bank for a passa- ble road. A year or two more, especially if as- sisted by any extraordinary freshes, will either swal. low up those on the margin of the bank, or oblige their inhabitants to remove them to some more permanent foundation. . Lexington, which is the largest town in the State of Kentucky, is only sixty-five miles distant from this place; it is said to be nearly five times as large as Limestone, and situated in one of the finest countries in the world. Limestone Creek falls into the Ohio immediately above the town. I understand that this is sometimes a considerable stream; but, at present, its bed, which is at least six feet above the surface of the river, is perfectly dry. This is the case with most of the creeks which empty into the Ohio. although at other times they rush down with all the appearance of large and permanent rivers. After leaving Limestone six miles, we came in sight of Charlestown, likewise in the State of Ken- tucky. This place contains about forty houses, 13]. and makes a respectable appearance from the river. Twelve miles lower we passed the town of Au- gusta, situated on the right bank of the river, in the State of Ohio, and containing about thirty houses. Thirty-seven miles below Augusta, the Little Miami River puts in from the right; immediately above which, is the site of a small town called Columbia, consisting of about one dozen scattered houses. Seven miles further down stands the town of Cincinnati, the largest town on the Ohio below Pittsburgh, from whence it is distant about four hundred and eighty miles, and lies in latitude 39. 6. N. and 84, 18. W. Cincinnati is handsomely situated on an eleva- ted bank on the right side of the Ohio, and was, until lately, the seat of government for the North- West Territory; it contains about three hundred houses, among which are found several very gene teel buildings; it has a bank, market-house, print- ing office, and a number of stores well stocked with every kind of merchandise in demand in this country. The markets are well furnished, both as to abundance and variety. Superfine flower is selling at three and a half and four dollars by the single barrel, and other articles are proportionably cheap. Ordinary manufactures they have likewise in plenty; and the country around, being rich and level, produces all the necessaries of life with but little labour. Fort Washington is situated 182 immediately at the upper end of the town, and al- though, from the increased population of the coun- try, it is at present useless, yet, in the early settle ment of this place, it was a post of considerable importance in checking the incursions and ravages of the Indians. - Immediately opposite Cincinnati is the entrance of Licking River, a considerable stream, nearly as large as the Alleghany, and navigable for about one hundred miles. On the point formed by the junction of the two streams, is situated the town of Newport, in the State of Kentucky, consisting of about thirty houses. This is likewise a military station, containing at all times a considerable sup- ply of military stores for the convenience of the western country. Here we found two gun boats belonging to the United States, waiting for a fresh to take them over the falls; they were built at Marietta, and are about the size of large Albany sloops. - I first noticed the growth of the cane below the mouth of the Great Sciota River, which lies near the thirty-eighth degree of north latitude. There it was very small, rising to little more than three feet in height, but, as you descend, you ob. serve it to increase in size and quantity, until the banks of the river become covered with an im penetrable growth. i83 - I shall set out from this place to-morrow, but intend to make some stay at the Falls of Ohio, from whence you will hear from me again. * 84 LETTER XVI. Louisville, Kentucky, (Falls of Ohio) - October 10, 1807. Dear Friend, AFTER leaving Newport, and descending the river twenty-four miles, you pass the mouth of the Great Miami River, which falls into the Ohio from the right side, near the line which di- vides the State of Ohio from the Indiana Territo- ry. This is a large and rapid river, being nearly two hundred yards wide at its mouth, although it is said to lose much of its breadth as you ascend towards its source: it is navigable for one hundred and thirty miles. One of its branches approaches within four miles of a branch of the Miami of the Lake; while another, by a portage of seven or eight miles, communicates with the Sandusky River, which likewise empties itself into Lake Erie. The Great Miami, I am informed, becomes somewhat difficult of navigation for the last forty or fifty miles, the channel being stony, 185 - and the current very swift. Forts Washington, Hamilton, St. Clair, Jefferson, Grenville, Reco- very, Adams and Defiance, are a chain of posts, commanding a ready communication between the Ohio and Lake Erie, by means of the two Mi- amis. The rapid increase of population through- out this charming country will, in all probability, shortly preclude the necessity of retaining them for the same purpose. Two miles below the mouth of the Great Miami is the site of a small town named Lawrenceburgh; this is only re- markable as being the first town and settlement you pass in the Indiana Territory. Descending thence twenty-four miles, we arrived at Big Bone Lick Creek, in the State of Kentucky. Big Bone Lick is celebrated for the incredibly large bones found in its vicinity, which have not only amazed and astonished, but likewise puzzled the learned world. Horns have been found here measuring fifteen feet in length, fifteen inches in circumference, and weighing nearly one hundred pounds; teeth or grinders from five to twelve pounds weight, and other bones in proportion. That this animal, which has been denominated the mammoth, is now extinct, is, Ibelieve, the gene- rally received opinion, although, I am informed, the Indians cherish a tradition that he still exists un- known in the west.* - * Mr. Jefferson, in his Notes on Virginia, informs us, that several chiefs of the Delawares being asked by a Go- vol. 1. A 3. - º 186 You no doubt recollect the skeleton of one which was exhibited a few years since in the city of New York; this, at that time, I thought a monster, yet it was far from being as large as those to which the largest of these bones once belonged. This unwieldy monster has been sup. posed, by competent judges, to have been three or four times as large as the greatest elephant, who vernor of Virginia what they knew or had heard respecting this animal, the chief speaker immediately put himself into an oratorical attitude, and with a pomp suited to the supposed elevation of his subject, informed him, that it was a tradition handed down from their fathers, * That in * ancient times a herd of them came to Big Bone Lick, and * began a universal destruction of the bears, deer, elks, - * buffaloes, and other animals which had been created for tº the use of the Indians; that the Great Man above, looking “ down and seeing this, was so enraged that he seized his “lightning, descended to the earth, seated himself upon * a neighbouring mountain on a rock, on which his seat “ and the print of his feet are still to be seen, and hurled “ his bolts among them, until the whole were slaughtered * except the big bull, who presented his forehead to the tº shafts and shook them off as they fell; but at length * missing one, it wounded him in the side; whereupon, º springing round, he bounded over Ohio, the Wabash and tº the Illinois, and finally over the Great Lakes, where he * is living to this day.” - Col. Morgan informs us, that upon putting similar queries to a chief of the Iroquois tribe, whom he saw at the Lick, he delivered himself as follows: “After the Great * Spirit first formed the world he made the various tº birds and beasts which now inhabit it. He also made is a graminivorous animal; whereas this is now sup- posed to have been carnivorous. If so, it surely does not appear to have been well calculated for an inhabitant of this part of the globe in its pre- sent state. Quere. May they not have lived in the early part of my twenty-seven thousand years, and the species have been destroyed by the general de- luge 2 Orisit possible for the bones of any animal, in so exposed a situation, to resist the iron tooth of “man; but having formed him white, and finding him im. * perfect and ill tempered, he placed him on one side of * the earth, from whence he lately found a passage across “ the great water to be a plague to us. As the Great Spirit “was not pleased with this work, he took some black clay, “ and made what you call a negro, with a woolly head. * This black man was much better than the white man, “but still he did not please the Great Spirit. At last the * Great Spirit, having found a piece of pure red clay, “formed of it the red man, perfectly to his mind; and was “so well pleased with him that he placed him on this great “island, separate from the white and black men, and gave him rules for his conduct. He increased exceedingly, * and was perfectly happy for ages; but the foolish young * people at length despising his rules, became very wicked. “In consequence of this, the Great Spirit created the great “buffalo, the bones of which you now see before us; “ these made war upon the human species, and de- “stroyed all but a few, who repented, and promised the * Great Spirit to live according to his laws in future ; º whereupon he sent thunder and lightning, and destroyed * the whole race in this spot, two excepted, a male and female, which he shut up in yonder mountain, ready to * let loose again, should occasion require.” - - 188 time during so long a period? Here is indeed an extensive field for the speculations of the curious. I have no doubt you would be highly gratified to see it as ably handled as my ingenious calcula. tion on the destruction of the bed of the river by the Falls of Niagara ! - - Thirty miles below Big Bone Lick Creek, and on the same side, you perceive the Kentucky Ri- ver, which, after having traversed the State in its widest part, and passing through innumerable tracts of the finest lands, here discharges its waters into the general receiver, the Ohio. This river is one hundred and fifty yards wide, and is navigable for one hundred and sixty miles during a great part of the year; but in dry seasons it is frequent ly obstructed with shallows. Immediately at the mouth of Kentucky River, which lies in latitude 38. 39. N. and 85. 2. W. is situated a thriving little town named Port William, consisting at pre- sent of about forty houses. Frankfort, which is the seat of government, although not the capital of the State, is situated on this river, about sixty- five miles from its mouth, and is said to be in a very flourishing condition, containing already about two hundred houses. Several large ves- sels have been launched on this river, and de- scended to New Orleans. Westport is forty-eight miles below Port William, and contains only six houses. I have observed, during my whole course down this river, that the land rises and falls alter- 189 mately on each side: whenever you see a flat on one side you will always find a corresponding ele- vation on the opposite shore. - In descending the Ohio River you frequently pass what are here called floating mills; they are of a very simple construction, and consequently the more valuable in a country so destitute of mill- seats as this. The mill is supported by two large canoes, with the wheel between them; this is moored wherever they can find the strongest cur- rent nearest to the shore, by the force of which alone the mill is put into operation. You have seen a razor-grinder wheeling his machine from house to house in the city of New-York—this is exactly the case with the mills I am now descri- bing; for they are literally floated up and down the stream, wherever a customer calls. Should I ever again attempt farming, it will most probably be in this new country, for I well remember I lost nearly one half of all my time and labour by send- ing to mill; for let me call for whom I would, he was always “gone to the mill.” Here, therefore, I may flatter myself with a better prospect of suc cess, in that particular at least, for instead of the farmer's going to mill, the mill comes to him. After leaving Westport we descended twenty miles, and found ourselves at the head of the Falls of Ohio, before the town of Louisville, six hun- dred and thirty miles below Pittsburgh. This town is very handsomely situated on an elevated 190 bank on the left side of the river, in the State of Kentucky, about eight hundred yards above the commencement of the rapids, and contains one hundred and twenty houses; it is the county town, and carries on ship and boat-building with consi. derable spirit; several large vessels have already been built, and the many advantages which it en- joys in this respect, over all the towns above the falls, bids fair to give it all the encouragement it can wish. The country around Louisville is perfectly level for some miles, and the elevation of the town commands a beautiful prospect of the smooth and gentle stream above, as well as the rough and foaming billows of the falls below. Louisville has lately been erected into a port of entry and clearance, and lies in latitude 38, 14. N. and 85. 29. W. The river at this place appears to have acquired a breadth of about one mile and a quarter; and, as the passage of the falls is dangerous to strangers unacquainted with the navigation, the court ap- points able and experienced pilots, who conduct you over in safety. Our pilot informed us that he received the same pilotage for a ship of three hundred tons as for a canoe, which you may carry on your shoulder, for, according to the act, “every * boat shall pay two dollars for pilotage.” These falls, which may be considered as the only real obstruction in the navigation of the Ohio throughout a distance of nearly eleven hundred 191 miles, are occasioned by a bed of solid rocks ex- tending from one side of the river to the other. The water was low when we passed them, and ac- cording to the pilot's account, no more than twen- ty inches of water over them. I have, however, seen too much water roll not to be able to form a reasonable conjecture of the quantity necessary to raise so violent a commotion as is here found, and shall thereforeventure to say there could not have been less than three feet, but probably more. You will perhaps be surprised at my stupidity in not sounding the falls on our passage over them. I certainly intended it, but, by beginning too soon, I lost my pole, and before I could procure another, it being entangled under the rowers' oars, we had passed the shoalest part of the fall. - When the river is high, I am told, there is not the least appearance of any fall, except that the current is somewhat swifter at this place than or- dinary; but when low, as at present, nearly two thirds of the breadth of the river may be walked over without wetting your ance. There are three different passages or shoots over these falls, all depending, however, on the state of the water. The principal is nearest the Indiana shore; the middle is the next best; and the third, or Kentucky shoot, is only passable with the larger vessels during the highest stage of the water. Two fine large ships, of two hundred and fifty and three hundred tons burthen, were lying upon the falls as we de- º 192 scended the river, having attempted to pass without a sufficient rise of the water; they had their keels knocked out, and were otherwise con- siderably damaged. Their situations were con- sidered so very precarious that the one which ought to have been worth ten thousand dollars, was sold at public auction for fifteen hundred only. - The descent of these falls appears to have been accurately surveyed, and found to be twenty-two feet and a half in two miles. T he legislature of Kentucky have incorporated a company for the purpose of opening a canal from the mouth of Bear Grass Creek, which runs in front of the town to the foot of the falls below. The ground has been bored, and every way examined for the purpose, and it is considered as practicable. The only difficulty remaining, is that of raising a suffi. cient capital to undertake it. When, therefore, this is once effected, the only serious obstruction in the navigation of the Ohio will be removed. Immediately opposite Louisville, in the Indiana Territory, is situated the flourishing little town of Jeffersonville, consisting at present of forty houses; it bids fair to become a place of consi. derable importance. At the foot of the falls, and in the same territory, is another village, of the name of Clarksville, consisting of four or five houses only, and situated a little above the mouth 1. 193 of Silver Creek, a small stream which there empties into the Ohio. - It may be of some service to you, should you ever take a trip this way, and become a “cap- tain,” like myself, that I have attained that honour before you; for although I may not be able to instruct you what you ought to do, yet my expe- rience will enable me to inform you what you ought not to do. You must never, on any account, advance money to your boatmen. One of my hands, being arrested by a constable for a debt of eight or ten dollars, at the moment we were leaving the shore, I paid the money without the least hesitation, thinking to deduct it from his wages. After descending a mile or two, I observed a fine stream of spring-water on the shore, and expressing a desire to have a keg filled with it, this fellow was ready in an instant; we accord- ingly landed him, and, after waiting near an hour, and receiving no answer to our repeated calls, I sent our pilot after him; but the fellow had left the keg at the spring, and escaped to the woods. Another agreed with me at Cincinnati to go the whole voyage down to New-Orleans, or up the Mississippi, as I should think proper, at twenty-five dollars a month. Just as we were ready to start, his wife came down to see him off—She had no money—she might want a little before Josey returned—and, finally, could not I VoI. I. is b oblige her with one month's advance, as Josey would probably continue with me three or four months? I let her have the twenty-five dollars, and the second night after, the rascal ran away! Yours, - - LETTER XVII. Cumberland, Kentucky, october 6, 1807. Dear Friend, AFTER leaving the Falls of Ohio, and de- scending twenty-five miles, you pass the mouth of Salt River, which enters the Ohio from the left side. This river takes its name from some salt springs, which are now worked, at a considera- ble distance from its mouth. It is about one hundred and thirty yards in breadth, and naviga- ble for a distance of nearly seventy miles. A small town has lately been laid out at its mouth, named West-Point, containing only four houses or cabins. Five miles below Salt River I expected to see the town of Ohiopiomingo, so beautifully described by Winterbotham. I was therefore not a little disappointed to see it rivalled by the one last mentioned. - I observed that the land on either side to this place continued generally level from the river, yet very few settlements make their appearance 196 in front. The greatest population is inland; con- sequently the greatest improvements have been made there. - - Thirty miles below West-Point, you pass Blue River, which comes in from the right, through the Indiana Territory. This appears to be a very still and gentle stream. It is fifty yards in breadth, and navigable for forty miles. It is said, that by removing some slight obstructions, arising from lodges of trees and driftwood, the navigation may be extended ten or twelve miles further. From Blue River you descend a distance of one hun- dred and twenty miles, without passing either towns or streams, excepting a few dry creeks, and now and then a solitary settlement, scarcely as large as the surface of your boat. Hitherto the landscape has been particularly pleasing, affording a most agreeable variety of hills, valleys, and mountains, on one side of the river or the other; but now they have vanished entirely from the sight, and the horizon around presents nothing to your view, but an immense tract of level cham- -- paign country, as far as the eye can discern. After having proceeded about thirty miles through this flat country, you pass the mouth of Green River, which falls into the Ohio from the left shore. This is a beautiful stream, being about one hundred and eighty yards in breadth, navi. gable for one hundred and sixty miles, and pre- senting to the eye a far greater degree of transpa- 197 tency than the Ohio itself. Its mouth lies in lat. 37, 59. N. and long, 37. 13. W. Twenty-two miles below Green River, and likewise in the State of Kentucky, you arrive at the town of Henderson, or, as it is more commonly called, Red Banks. This village, which contains about forty houses, is situated on the second bank, about one quarter of a mile from the river, owing to the nearest banks being subject to be overflowed with every ordinary rise of the river; which still continues its breadth of about one mile and a quarter, rather increasing. Green River, before mentioned, is no more than seven miles distant from Henderson by land, but owing to an extraordinary bend in the river, it is twenty-five miles by water. - One evening, a little after sunset, below a place called Diamond Island, as we were landing on the shore, we discovered a bear which had just entered the river about one quarter of a mile above us, on the opposite shore, with the intention of crossing over to our side. I have ever been anxious, while on these waters, to shoot at least one of these ani- mals, but have always been disappointed. This I thought a most favourable opportunity; accord- ingly I took a rifle, and proceeded, under cover of the willows, to the spot where I concluded the current would land him. I soon found myself conveniently posted ; and at the moment he stood still to shake himself, I fired, and shot him. down. He, however, recovered suffi. ciently to ascend the bank, and passed me so close, that in a fright I jumped down, with the intention of retreating to the river. But finding he made no pursuit, I reloaded my piece, followed his trail, which was covered with blood, and found him dead about one hundred yards distant from the place where he passed me. We afterwards found the ball had entered in at the breast, and passed out at the left flank. From Henderson, which is the last town on the Ohio, you proceed forty-six miles, when you ar. rive at the mouth of Wabash River. This is a large and beautiful stream of water emptying itself into the Ohio from the right side, and navigable for a distance of two hundred and twenty miles, interrupted, however, by several rapids, among which the two principal are known by the names of the second and third Grand Rapids. This river is about two hundred and eighty yards wide at its mouth, and is the largest stream which I have yet seen enter the Ohio St. Vincent, which is said to be a considerable town, and the seat of govern. ment for the Indiana Territory, is situated about one hundred and fifty miles from the mouth. Some valuable salt springs have been found on this river, as likewise a silver mine; but few of the silver discoveries made in this country have ever paid for the time and trouble lost in exa mining them. A communication with Lake Erie, by means of a short portage from the head waters of the one to the other, is opened through this river: one of its branches communicating with the river St. Joseph, and another with the eastern- most branch of the Miami of the lake. From the mouth of the Wabash, where there is only one settlement, you descend thirty miles, and arrive at Shawanese Town, an old Indian settle. ment on the right side of the river, situated a little above a small stream named Salina Creek. This town is now wholly abandoned by its ancient pro- prietors, and only occasionally visited by a few of them for the purpose of trading with five or six white families, who compose the whole of its set- tlement at present. Considerable quantities of salt are made on the aforementioned creek, and of a very good quality; the springs belong to the go- vernment, and are leased out to certain contractors, who are bound not to sell the salt higher than half a dollar a bushel at the works. These, therefore, have their private copartners, who buy all at the lawful price; and as the property has then appa- rently changed owners, they sell none at the store- houses for less than two dollars a bushel. About five or six miles below Shawanese Town, and on the opposite shore, you pass some high and curiously shaped rocks, which, at a distance, bear a most striking resemblance to a range of 200 forts and batteries, and have very appropriately obtained the name of the Battery Rocks. The face of the country here undergoes another change; the dull, uniform, and uninterrupted hori- zon, which has tired and fatigued the eye for the last hundred and fifty miles, now rises again on each side of the river alternately, and to me ex- cites far more agreeable sensations, than the rich plains we have just passed. - After having passed the Battery Rocks, you descend about seven miles further, and arrive at a very curious cavern called The Cave in the Rock, situated on the right bank of the river, in the Territory of Indiana. The entrance to this singular excavation is immediately on the margin of the river, the whole of which, at this place, presents a solid mass of perpendicular rocks. The door, or mouth, which is of a semicircular form, is twenty-seven paces in width, and about three or four and twenty in height, but partly obscured by the foliage of some trees and brush, now growing in front. It lies twenty or five and twenty feet above the surface of the river at pre- sent; but when the water is higher, I presume it may be entered in a canoe. After having entered a few yards, you find yourself in a large and spa. cious room, sixty-two paces in length, and almost the same in width, with a projection, something like a bench, nearly all around; and the ceiling, or roof, which is of an elliptical form, is about - 201 thirty feet in height. In many places you may observe several rude attempts with chalk or char- coal to trace some kind of a device or figure, but I could find no resemblance to any thing “in the heavens above, in the earth beneath, or in the waters under the earth.” In some few places you. may learn the names of former visitors, which they have left inscribed on the rock. I could not help observing what a very convenient situation this would be for a hermit, or for a convent of monks, as it is large enough to accommodate se. veral hundreds of them. From an examination of the cave, I have no doubt that it has been the dwelling of some person or persons, as the marks of the smoke, and likewise some wooden hooks, affixed to the walls, sufficiently prove. Formerly, perhaps it was inhabited by Indians; but since, with more probability, by a gang of that banditti, headed by Mason and others, who a few years ago infested this part of the country, and commit. ted a great number of robberies and murders. Near the centre of the roof you discover an aperture, which is sufficiently large to admit a man, and, at first view, has the appearance of being intended to carry of the smoke; but, as I have been informed, leads to another cavern above. I intended to make some contrivance to ascend to it; but, in consequence of the storm which blew on shore, and a heavy swell which threatened to won cc - 202 dash our boat to pieces against the rocks, I was under the necessity of hastening my departure. Had I, however, discovered any thing that pro- mised further amusement, I should not have re- garded walking back four or five miles, after having secured the boat in a place of safety. - Four miles below the cave you pass Hurricane Island, a passage formerly considered as very dan- gerous, but at present has nothing terrific but the name. Twenty-five miles below the island, you come to a public ferry, where one of the princi. pal roads from Kentucky to the Missouri crosses the river; and five miles further, on the left side, you arrive at the mouth of Cumberland River. This stream, which is likewise known by its more ancient name of the Shawanese River, is about two hundred and eighty yards wide, and has its source in the Cumberland mountains. It is navigable for loaded boats of sixty barrels, as far as Nashville, which is about sixty miles from its mouth, and still further for smaller craft; but during the dry season, no large boats can ascend with anything like a loading. - At the mouth of Cumberland River, which lies in at 37.17. N. long. 88, 7. W., is a small set tlement called Smith Town, consisting of only five houses. The situation, however, is ex- tremely eligible for further improvement; for not only are large quantities of cotton, tobacco, and other produce, annually floated down this stream, 203 but likewise most of the boats descending to New Orleans or Natchez, generally make a halt here, either for hands, provisions, boats, or repairs. This little place, contrary to all others which I have seen on these waters, possesses a greater number of inhabitants, at present, than its size would lead us to suppose. It appears to be a kind of inland port, where runaway boys, idle young men, and unemployed boatmen, assemble to engage as hands on board of any boats that may happen to call. -- An amusement has already been introduced at this place, which, although excusable in large towns and cities, yet in a new country, and espe- cially in an infant settlement like this, cannot be too much condemned. You will scarcely believe, that in a place just emerging from the woods, which, although advantageously situated, can pros- per only by dint of industry and care, and where the girdled trees which surround its houses threaten with every storm to crush the whole settlement, —you will scarcely believe, I say, that a billiard- table has been established, which is continually surrounded by common boatmen, just arrived from the Salt Works, St. Louis, or St. Geneviève, who in one hour lose all the hard-earned wages of a two months voyage! A few miles below Hurricane Island, we were considerably alarmed one evening by the whistling of a rifle-shot, which passed just over 204 our heads, after striking the water between us and the shore, which was about four hundred yards distant. We observed three Indians on the banks. from whence the shot proceeded, and the boatmen were decidedly of opinion that it was fired at us; but it was more probably aimed at a deer, which happened at that moment to be on the bank, nearly in a right line with the boat, and, missing its object, it had passed rather too close to us. I had nearly forgotten to mention a singular circumstance which occurred on the river a few miles above this place. Very early in the morn. ing, the men who were on the watch informed me that a large bear was crossing the river just below, and requested permission to take the canoe and give him battle. I consented, and at the same time got up to see the sport. Our two sailors set off, but as there happened to be no flint in the rifle, they took my long fowling-piece, which was loaded with buck-shot. They paddled with all their strength, reserving their fire until they came within ten yards of the bear, who was fast gaining the opposite shore, when one of them fired, but overshot his mark. The boat, all this time, was under such great way, that before they could recover their paddles to check her, she ran along side of the bear, who immediately seized the gunwale of the boat with both paws, and before they could rise up to assail him with their paddles, 205 he overturned the canoe, and made for the shore. One of the men had the presence of mind to dive under water, to avoid being clinched by the bear; the other, with more courage than prudence, fol- lowed him with a paddle, but finding he could not prevent his escape, presently returned to the canoe. I was much diverted with this whimsical bear-hunt, until I discovered that it was likely to be more at my expense than even at that of the disappointed hunters; as the bear, in overturning the canoe, had sent my gun to the bottom. The water was not more than five feet deep where this accident happened; yet we were detained more than two hours before we recovered the gun. I have already informed you, that the naviga- tion of the Ohio is so perfectly safe, as to require no particular directions in addition to those given in some of my former letters on this subject. I find it necessary, however, to give you a word or two respecting the fogs and falsity of vision at night, which are so frequently met with on this river, and, although not attended with any parti- cular danger, yet they are often the means of your taking a wrong course, and bewildering yourself among the islands. º - The Ohio, particularly in the spring, is subject to be covered with fogs, which sometimes remain suspended over the river for three or four hours after sun-rise, during which it is very difficult to know which is the nearest shore, unless previously 206 acquainted with the old Indian mode of ascertain. ing this point. These fogs continue longest, and are most frequent, on that part of the river lying below Cincinnati and the Falls, down to the Mis- sissippi, but higher up are far less troublesome. The Ohio, throughout its whole course, (with very few exceptions,) is subject to a very strong echo; and the method to ascertain the proximity of either shore, is to strike the boat with a club oran axe, and the echo will be first heard from the nearest shore. But when in a situation where no echo is returned, or where the water is too deep to be sounded with a pole, or when not provided with a line, take a tin cup, and dip up water from - you on each side of the boat, and the resistance of the current, upon one of the trials, will soon satisfy you which way it is setting. - The falsity of vision during the night, on the Ohio, is a phenomenon for which I am totally unable to account. The facts, however, as they simply occur, are as follows: Oſtentimes, when descending this river in the night, you have an inclination to land; you generally make for the nearest shore, which to all appearance is not more than thirty or forty yards distant; yet, after - rowing for half an hour, you find yourself, appa. rently no nearer than you were before. At other times you will suppose yourself in the middle of the river, at least half a mile from either shore; yet, after ten minutes rowing, you will find your. 2O7 self all at once ashore. The surest way to be out of the reach of this deception, when you do not wish to land, is to take the middle of the river, and there observe the reflection of the banks and trees on the water. You will then discover, that the reflection of the trees on either side ex- tend to more than one-third of the general width of the river, whilst between them you will see a clear space like a channel; and as long as you keep within this space, you are beyond the reach of the magic circle. - - The price of land along the Ohio, as you will rea- dily suppose, depends on its quality and situation. Good improved bottom lands on the river, sell from two to ten dollars an acre; further back, from two to five dollars; but rough hilly lands, containing small portions of good land, may be bought in large tracts from one dollar down to fifty cents an acre. - Yours, END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. - º º 1. - T 11 -- 9 5. ºr- º y 9 WTVT - * ºf ºn/mº. * º - - s º -- -- º aſºn º, sº - º º s º º º s - º º - - -- - º º ºr ------- C O U Nº T Cºreº R º - º N A. º . - - The division \ line between Kentucky and the Tenneſsee gºvernment - - - - - - --- - - … ºn --- - º - º - - - - - - - - - º ºS - Nº. ** º º º s º ºf the S T A Tº of A ſº. A 7" C. K. Y. s - º - - - - º º º . ſ Zºº / " . - and the - * - - - º - T E N N E S - E. E. - - - - GO V E R N M E. N. T. º * /º/, / * Nº. - - Tilian ºat -- - - - beſt authorities By º º /º, zºº, - - - ſº ſº TRAVELS ON AN IN LAND VOYAGE. THROUGH THE - STATES OF NEW-YORK, PENNSYLVANIA, VIRGINA. OHIO, KENTUCKY AND TENNESSEE, AND THROUGH THE TERRITORIES OF INDIANA, Louisiana, MISSISSIPPI AND NEW-ORLEANS: PERFOR MED IN THE YEARS 1807 AND 1808; INCLUDING A TOUR OF NEARLY SIX THOUGAND MILEs. WITH MAPS AND PLATES. BY CHRISTIAN SCHULTZ, JUN, ESQ. in two voluntEs.....von, ºr NEW YORK : Printed by Isaac Riley. 1810. DISTRICT OF NEW-YORK, sº E IT REMEMBERED, That on the twentieth day of March, in the thirty-fourth year of the Independence of the United States of America, Is AAc Riley, of the said district, hath deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as proprietor, in the words and figures following, to wit: “Travels on an Inland Voyage through the States of New-York, Penn- “sylvania, Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky and Tennessee, and through the “Territories of Indiana, Louisiana, Mississippi and New-Orleans; per- “formed in the years 1807 and 1808; including a tour of nearly six thou- “sand miles. With Maps and Plates. By Christian Schultz, Jun. Esq. * In two Volumes. Volume II.” - IN corror Miry to the act of the Congress of the United States, en- titled, “An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies * of maps, charts, and boºks, to the authors and proprietors of such * cºpies, during the times therein mentioned;’ and also to an act, entitled, * An act, supplementary to an act, entitled, an act for the encouragement * of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the ** authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein men- *tioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, en- *graving and etching historical and other prints.” CHARLES CLINTON, Clerk of the District of New-York. . TABLE OF CONTENTS, LETTER xviii. Tennessee River.... Fort Massack....Cedar Bluffs.... Cherokee Town.....An Indian visit....Inquiry con- cerning the Mammoth.... Big Chain of Rocks.... Mouth of the Ohio. Trade and supplies of the Western Country.... Different channels of con- veyance....Table of distances, time, and expenses, of transporting goods from New-York.... Re- marks, - - - - - l LETTER xix. Mississippi.... Pigeons, wild geese, brant, and wild turkeys....Junction of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers....Character of the inhabitants of the Ohio....Inconveniences of trade, and scarcity of money....Health of the country.... Fruit trees.... Forest trees. - - - * 16 LETTER XX. 4 barge from New-Orleans.....A boat wrecked, and two hands lost.... Sawyers. Sleeping Sawyers.... Planters..... Falling Banks.... Wooden Islands.... Floating Islands....Grand Chain of locks....Cape Girarded. - - 26 º - - iv LETTER XXI. Shawanese Town....Muddy River.... Wolves.... Kaº- - Æaskias River.... Salina Creek.... St. Genevieve.... - Prairie Le Roche.... Fort Chartres.....American Bottom..... Cahokia..... St. Louis.... Missouri Ri. wer..... Illinois River......An eaccursion to the Mines....Lost in the wilderness.... Return to St. Louis. - - 35 -- LETTER XXII. Another attempt....Willage of Carondelet....Merri. mack River.... Big River.... Mines of Louisiana... Manners of the inhabitants.... Road to St. Ge- nevieve....Willage of St. Genevieve....Big Field.... Very few mechanics.... Discover an unfortunate countryman…Loss of my boat. - 47 LETTER xxIII. Mississippi fºod, ſoºn. Amusement, of the vil. lage.... Manners and customs.....Anecdotes.... Pio- rias Indians..... Spanish fort, and anecdote.... Burning of woods, and danger to travellers. 59 LETTER XXIV. Descend the Mississippi.....Wew Bourbon....Saling Creek and Works.... Kaskaskias River, Willage, and Fort.... Picket Island Passage....Muddy Riº wer. Shawanese and Delaware Town.....A cap. y tive wife....Inquiry concerning the Mammoth.... Cape Girardeau.... Effect of the Floods of the Ohio.... Face of the Country....Devil's Oven and Tea-Table. Grand Towers....Grand Chain of Rocks. Speculations....Current sets up the ri- Zºër, - - - - - 72 LETTER xxv. Islands of the Mississippi.... Encouragement to set- tlers under the Spanish government....Mouth of the Ohio....Curious Chronometer....Speculations... An Indian fleet..... Preparing for war.....In- quiry concerning the Mammoth... Fort Jefferson... Iron Banks....Chalk Banks.....A narrow escape from being wrecked.... Fall in with a Kentucky fleet.....A dance. - - - - 87 LETTER XXVI. New Madrid. Swamps. Face of the country.... Produce coarse cotton Chickasaw Indian..... Little Prairie.... Shawanese and Cherokee In- dians ..... Flower Island ..... Upper Chickasaw Bluffs. Second Bluffs. Third Bluffs.... Fort Pickering.... Fort Pike.... Cotton improves. 103 LETTER xxvii. A chain of rocks....Overtake the Kentucky fleet.... - Two boats in thºtress....More arrivals.... Counciſ - Island.... St. Francis ºver... Pass some Choctaw vì Indians....Vast flocks of pigeons.... French barge from New Orleans.... Leave the fleet...Old bed of the river.... White River.....Arkansas River.... Osark Village, and Indians.... Spanish beard, a singular vegetable. Out-Let. Grand Lake.... Long Reach. Two barges from New Orleans.... Yazoo River... Walnut Hills, or Fort M. Henry... Palmyra Little Yazoo River...Grand Gulf. Bayou Pierre....Petit Gulf....Coles Creek, 113 LETTER xxviii. City of Watchez. Manners and amusements....Mr. rival of a fleet of Kentuckians.... The Levee.... A morning walk.....A new way to prevent gam. bling Wessels. Produce...Price of land... Fruits. Markets... Health. Choctaw, Natchez, and Mus- kogee Indians....A musical fºrce. Spotted Ty. gers. Wild Horses...Indian antiquities....An even- ing walk on the Levee...4 curious dialogue. 132 LETTER XXIX. Catharine's Creek. Pursuit of an alligator, a great mistake... White Cliffs. Homa Chitto River.... Buffaloe Creek....A wreck.....Migators.... Loftus Heights, or Fort Adams Division line between the United States and Spain. Red River... Bayou Chºffalaia...Natural Floating Bridges.... Re- marks. Bayou Tunica. Point Coupee... Produce sugar and cotton Bayou Sara and Fausse ſº- wière....Bayou Crocodile....Little Cliffs. 147 vii LETTER XXX. Baton Rouge, a Spanish post... Willage....Bayou Manchac, or Ibberviſle River... Bagou Plaque- mine. Manchac Church ... Bayou La Fourche.... Atacapas, and Opelousas Indians. A storm.... Contrell, Bonna Cara, and Red Churches...Ge- neral Remarks....Mississippi, more dangerous than the Ohio. Barren of Prospect. Less agi- tated with winds thin the Ohio. Game scarce. Subject to fogs..../elocity of the current...Ob- structions in its navigation. Sºwyers and Plant- ers...How to avoid them....How to strike them when unavoidable... Wooden or floating islands... Islands progress up the river... Falling 5 mºs, dangerous and to be avoided....How to distinguish them in high and low water. Manner and places of landing. - - - - - l60 LETTER XXXI. High water, its advantages and disadvantages.... Of the eddies in ascending...Rise ºf the river. Immense swamps. Health of the country....All- gators...Manner of taking and entrapping them... Small lakes and islets ... Fish... Navigation still dangerous between Natchez and Chaffālain.... Price of land below Point Coupee Fores frees... Pelican, crane, swan, white eagle, and other birds... Wolves Cotton, produce from an acre. Price of lands above Point Coupee....Freight viii from St. Louis, and Falls of Ohio, to New- Orleans...Cane brakes...Miſs. º 174 LETTER XXXII. City of New Orleans....Ursuline Wuns.... Fortifica. tions... The Levee... Ladies of colour, privileged. - Singular customs. Amusements of the Whites, Yellows, Blacks, and ſeeds.....A Sunday.... Public baths. Boarding. Water of the Mississippi...Its singular properties..../esseſs and river craft. Health of the city... Situation and future pros- - pects....Carondelet Canal..... Lakes Maurepas, Pontohar rain, and Wachas... Tides and Hurri canes... Poblacion de St. Bernardo, or Terre aud: Boeufs....Horse and boat hire extravagantly high. - - - 189 LETTER XXXIII. p.m. fo º, Bºº... ºngº, ºr, ºr, p. quemines... Swamps... Passes of the Mississippi. Fort Baſºe. General Remarks. The idea of the Mississippi flowing on a ridge, demonstrated to be erroneous.... The margin of the banks being always highest, satisfactorily explained..../oyage continued....In sight of the Hºvanna. A sail. Boarded by the English frigate Le Guerrier. Civiſities. Music....Make *he Double Head Show Keys…Arrive at Sandy Hook: - 207 - T R A V E L S. LETTER XVIII. Mississippi, (Mouth of Ohio,) October 24, 1807. Dear Friend, AFTER leaving Cumberland River, and de- scending twelve miles along the Kentucky shore, you gently glide into the Tennessee or Chero. kee River, which is certainly the finest and largest stream that contributes to the main river. Its waters are clear and transparent, whilst those of the Ohio still continue turbid and thick, and even after uniting with the latter may be traced for a mile quite separate and distinct. It is about four hundred and sixty or eighty yards in breadth at its mouth, and navigable for two hundred and fifty miles, when it is obstructed by sand-beds called the Muscle Shoals. Light craft, it is said, may ascend this river for one thousand miles further. After passing the Cumberland moun W 0 L. II. A. 2 tains, it expands itself in the form of a small lake, from ten to twelve hundred yards in width, while immediately at the mountains it is contracted to the small space of seventy or eighty yards only. The head waters of this river rise in the States of Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia, and collectively pass off into the Ohio, about twenty miles north of the boundary line between the States of Kentucky and Tennessee. The Muscle Shoals are said to be about twenty miles in length and three in breadth, and are formed by a great number of small sand-bars, shoals, and islands, abounding with fresh-water pear muscle. At a very trifling expense, a channel might be opened through them, sufficient to afford a con. stant navigation at all seasons of the year. About one mile below the mouth of the Tennessee is a very fine site for the establishment of a town; but as this part of the State is yet entirely unset- tled, and the Indian title probably not yet extin- guished, some years must elapse before any con- siderable improvements can take place; and a much longer time before any attention will be paid to improving the navigation of the river. Twelve miles below the Tennessee you arrive at Fort Massack, situated on the right bank of the river in the Territory of Indiana. This is a military post, occupied by a garrison, and former- ly was the headquarters of the army. This sta- tion appears to have been chosen merely on ac- º º / - count of its facility of communication with the posts on the Mississippi and Ohio, as it cannot be very healthy, in consequence of the land back of the fort being subject to inundation by every rise of the river. At a distance it has the appearance of a little town, from the number of houses and otherebuildings belonging to the garrison. It is said, that Burr and Wilkinson held a long consultation at this post, some time before the mysterious connection was known to the public; and that even as late as when Burr descended the river, although the whole country was in arms to arrest him, he not only halted here at his leisure, but even procured some arms and other necessary supplies : Sixteen miles below Massack, you pass a sta- tion which has been called Wilkinsonville, for- merly Cedar Bluffs. This was a few years back the head-quarters of the commander in chief; but from the unhealthiness of the place, the gar- rison was removed back to Fort Massack. No white settlers are now found at this place; but, since its abandonment by the army, it has been occupied by a few families of Cherokee Indians. Directly opposite to this, is a small Cherokee town, consisting of about twelve families, where we stopped, under an impression of its being a white settlement, in order to procure some milk for our coffee. All the hands, for one purpose or ºther, had landed, and strolled up the bank, while - 4. I remained alone in the boat, at the distance of about a quarter of a mile from the town, not being able to approach nearer, owing to the wide flats which extended from the shore. I saw L- enter the town, and in a few minutes heard several Indian whoops, which startled me a little, as it was a prevailing opinion that the Indians had en- tered into a confederacy to make war upon the United States. Shortly after, four stout Indians jumped down the bank, and with a continued yell came running with all their speed towards the boat. As I was alone, and could perceive nothing of L– or any of the boatmen, who, it appears, had entered the town, I began to think they had all been secured, and that the four Indians who were approaching intended to seize me likewise. I could not discover that they had any arms, yet, I concluded, that if they once came near me, their knives, which they always carry about them, would be sufficient for their purpose. I would have been glad, at this moment, to have been out in the stream ; but, in consequence of the shallowness of the water, and the want of assist. ance, it was in vain to attempt it. I had two fowling-pieces, a rifle, and a pair of pistols, all loaded; and my air-gun, which had been charged a few hours before, for the purpose of shooting at a flock of wild turkeys, was worth a dozen com: mon guns at a moderate distance. I stood in the stern of the boat as they approached, and had my 5 arms all prepared, lying before me under an awn- ing, and concealed from their view, with a deter- mination to use them, should I discover any signs of hostility. I was soon convinced, howe- ver, by their countenances, that their intentions were friendly; they halted about thirty yards from the boat, and did not offer to approach before I repeatedly invited them to come on board. One of them, who afterwards inform- ed me he was son to the chief, told me, that some Indians (pointing to the north-west) had lately paid a visit to their chief, whose name was Captain Jack, and was one of the four then on board, inviting them to join in hostilities against the United States. This he said they had refused, and had given for answer, that it suited them best to remain at peace; yet, if they must go to war, they would side with the United States. I had purchased at Pittsburgh a small American jack, displaying the stars and stripes of my country. I therefore on this oc- casion hoisted it at the mast head, and my vi. sitors seemed much pleased with the compli- ment. They were strongly impressed with the idea that I was employed by government; and when they understood, from inquiries, that I was for ascending the Mississippi, they repeatedly inquired, whether I carried talks to the tribes inhabiting the upper waters. In the course of the conversation, I laid before them a plain map of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers; and although it was probably the first they had ever seen, yet, after I pointed out to them their present situation, together with that of the Tennessee, Cumberland, and Wabash, I was surprised at the degree of in- telligence they discovered in pointing out several errors on my map, in the courses of those and other streams. - º - I next inquired of them what they knew respect. ing the great bones found up the river at Big Bone Lick, but could obtain no satisfactory in- formation, as they had never seen them, though they had heard that such bones were likewise found on some of the head waters of the Tennessee river. It was their opinion, however, “ that the “animal had existed and perished long before the * red men were created.” You would have been much pleased in witness. ing the surprise of these people upon seeing my air-gun, which I now showed to them. It was impossible to make them comprehend the nature of its construction, when I assured them it would do execution without fire or powder. I presented it to them one after another for examination, but could not persuade them to take it into their hands. Captain Jack inquired, whether it made smoke and noise like another gun, and finally re- quested to see me shoot. One of them imme. diately stepped up to an old canoe, and placed a chip upon the gunwale for a mark. I fired and - 4. buried the ball in the side of the canoe, about an inch below the mark. They were astonished, and looked at each other without speaking a word. But you may judge of their surprise when they saw me fire a second time without seeing me put in the ball, which I did while they were running to examine the mark. The second struck the chip and passed through it, making a wake in the sand beyond. They all ran to look at it again, while I unobserved slipped a third ball in the barrel. After firing the third time, they were as well convinced that my gun would fire from morning to night, as if it had been done in their presence. They had no idea of the air being compressed into the butt by artificial means, but concluded that the gun, like a watch, would go all the time. I now treated my visitors with a dram of whis- key, and for this purpose had to unlock a travel- ling liquor-case, the flasks of which, being white and handsomely gilt and flowered, soon caught their attention. “ How mºsſ, buck 2 How masſ, “buck?” was repeated half a dozen times before I discovered that it meant, How many buckskins would I take for a flask * I told them I could not spare any, as I had to travel many moons on the waters. But yet, as a mark of friendship, I made Captain Jack a present of one full of liquor. He was extremely well pleased with the gift, and insisted upon my going up to the town to re- 8 ceive some bucks in return. With great difficulty I excused myself. He then, with his companions, left me in great haste; and in about twenty mi. nutes returned with his wife and daughters, each having a small bundle under her arm. On coming on board he took the bundles, and presented them to me: they consisted of six drest buckskins, some jerked venison, and a bottle of milk. His two daughters appeared to be about fourteen and sixteen years of age, and, notwithstanding their light copper complexion, were extremely hand- some, and behaved with as much modesty as I could expect from any female friend of my own, on a similar occasion. Captain Jack is about five feet nine inches high, light built, of a pleasing countenance, and about fifty years of age; he ap- pears to be possessed of a considerable share of intelligence and information, and has lately intro- duced among his tribe many of our improvements in husbandry and dress. The women and girls are all habited in short gowns and petticoats, after the fashion of the white people, from homespun cottons of their own manufacture; but instead of the hat and stºcking, they use a cloak and mock- asons. You may be sure I did not fail to treat my fair visitors with all the delicacies which my vessel afforded. I first presented them with a glass of noyau, which went all round, and came back half full. I then presented another of wine, which seemed to be relished but Very little better. g At length Ioffered them some French brandy. This hit the mark exactly; for each lady took off her glass without making any wry faces. I then serve ed them with crackers, cheese, and dry rusk, to all which they did equal honour. Our hands being by this time assembled on board, we took a friendly leave of our visitors, and promised to call whenever we passed that way again. About four miles below this Indian settlement, you pass what is called the Big Chain of Rocks, a broken ledge, which extends in detached frag- ments nearly two-thirds across the river. The na- vigation of this passage is perfectly safe in the day-time, but unless you are well acquainted with its situation, it is imprudent to attempt it at night. Here, in all probability, has been a fall or rapid in the river, but now worn away by the con- stant friction of the water. After passing the Big Chain of Rocks, you descend twenty miles, and find yourself at the mouth of the Ohio, where it discharges into the Mississippi, at the distance of one thousand and forty miles from its head at Pittsburgh, and situated in lat. 36, 59. N. long. 88. 45. W. - Having at length reached that point which I suppose to be nearly the half of my intended voyage into the interior, I shall, before I enter on any new subject, say a few words on the probable increase of trade in this country, and the different VºI. I. I. - º 10 country within the last twelve years, and the immense tracts of the finest lands in the world, channels through which they may receive their supplies from the Atlantic States. - From the rapid increase of population in this which yet remain to be settled, you may form some idea, not only of the vast quantities of India, European, and West-India goods, already con- sumed, but likewise to what an astonishing amount it must arise in the short period of fifty years. If you cast your eye over the map, you will find, that at least one-third of the whole United States must, as it becomes settled, receive their supply of foreign articles from the Atlantic ports, either overland from Philadelphia and Baltimore, or by way of the lakes from New-York. There are two other points which may likewise be men. tioned, namely, Alexandria and New-Orleans, as being more advantageously situated for supplying the lower parts of the Ohio and the surrounding country. But neither of these can ever rival New- York in supplying the Western Country, as the former, independently of a rough land carriage of three hundred miles, is too small ever to furnish that variety which such a vast extent of country must require. The latter never can send any goods to the mouth of the Ohio in less than sixty days, and at a cost of nearly six dollars on every hundred weight. iſ -- The whole competition for the supply of this country with those articles, has hitherto been con- fined to the cities of Philadelphia and Baltimore, from whence the goods are brought three hun- dred miles in waggons, nearly one-third of which pass over the Alleghany mountains, and other rough ledges, and average the expense (exclusive of breakage) at five dollars on every hundred weight. It generally takes from eighteen to twenty days to perform this journey; but as the waggons are heavily laden, they often break down, which frequently adds three or four days more to the time just mentioned. New-York, though equally well situated, a ld at all times able to furnish a greater variety of goods, on much lower terms, has not yet entered into a competition with her rivals for the supply of this extensive market. This probably has proceeded from the want of a more minute description of the route, and from the expense attending it; as I could not learn, from all my inquiries, that any merchandise had ever been brought, before this year, from New York or Albany, by the route I travelled to the waters of the Ohio. I shall there. fore proceed to give you a correct estimate of the time and money necessarily expended on this route, in order to show upon what terms New York can supply that country at present, and what will probably be the reduced price a few years hence. º From N.ew-York to Schenectady Utica Oswego Table ºf Distances Time, and ºpenses. Miles. Albany is Lewis-Town Fort Schlosser and Black Rock Presque Isle Le Beauf Pittsburgh 160 15 104 104. Niagara or , - : 172 7. 17 90. 15 207 - 89.1 Days hºcº Lowest charge - per cwt. per cwt by steam-boat - I 1-2 - 40 20 turnpike road 1-2 16 16 by five and tenton boats 5 75 50 by the same 3 tolls 1 25 1 0. by sea vessels 3 - 50 50 level road - - - 1 1-2 25 25 by ten ton boats - by sea vessels 2 - 50 50 turnpike road 50 50 by ten ton boats 5 50 50 - - - - - tº days, sº a 34 in 13 From the foregoing statement it will be seen, that although the distance is nearly three times as great as the land carriage from Philadelphia and Baltimore, yet an ordinary passage will consume only twenty-two days and a half, and cost at most four dollars and eighty-one cents per hun- dred for bulky articles, and four dollars and eleven cents for those of greater solidity; excepting salt in barrels, which is still lower. Add to this, that the portages do not altogether amount to more than thirty-eight miles, and since that of Le Beauf has been turnpiked, the whole of that dis. tance may be considered as a smooth and even road, without so much as a stone to obstruct the wheels of a carriage. Those, therefore, who may hereafter pursue this route, need not be under any apprehension of meeting with delays on these wa- ters for want of a ready conveyance; or of being detained at any of the portages for want of teams, as these are always ready to start at a moment’s warning; so that within half an hour after land- ing, the goods may be on their way to the next place of shipment. - - This route may be used at all times of the year. - when the navigation is open, by boats often tons burthen, except from July to October, while the waters are low; when it may still be navigated by light boats carrying three or four tons only. I would advise those who transport goods this way, to provide themselves with large tarpawlings º to cover them, which will effectually secure them from all damages of wind or weather. - Another advantage attending this route is, that those who wish to transport their goods beyond Pittsburgh, may at all times purchase a boat at Le Beauf cheaper than at the former place, and by this means reduce the last item of the charges of freight exactly one half, which would bring it to four dollars and fifty-six cents, and three dollars and eighty-six cents, on every hundred weight. Although this estimate is already far below the price of waggon-hire from Philadelphia and Balti- more, yet I had assurances from the captains of both the vessels in which I sailed across the lakes, that they would reduce their freight still lower in order to encourage the transportation of merchan- dise by that route. And Messrs. Porter, Barton, & Co. who have the exclusive portage around the Falls of Niagara, informed me that they would not only reduce their rates to the lowest cent, and afford every facility to those who travel that route, but would likewise make it a general rule to give merchandise the preference in all their ship- ments. - You will find, upon referring to my table of expenses, that the distance from Utica to Oswego is the most extravagant of all the charges, being not less than a dollar and twenty-five cents per hundred weight for a hundred and four miles. 4. You will no doubt recollect the observations I communicated to you while passing that route. Ishall therefore now only add, that as the Western Inland Navigation Company seem unable to ex- tend their improvements agreeably to their char- ter, it is more than probable the legislature will soon adopt some effectual measures to accomplish the objects for which they were incorporated. It is of the utmost importance to the State, that this navigation should be completed with all convenient speed, and that the tolls should be so reduced as to make it an object to those who may prefer this circuitous route. When this is accomplished, and the tolls reduced (as they will be) at least fifty per cent, we can then deliver our goods at Pittsburgh at a less cost than four dollars per hundred weight, and be enabled to supply the back parts of Penn- sylvania and Virginia, the whole of the States of Ohio, Kentucky, and Tennessee, together with the Territories of Michigan, Indiana, and Louisi ºna. - - - Yours, 16 º º LETTER XIX. * - Louisiana, Mouth of Ohio, - October 24, 1807. Dear Friend, - ALways supposed we had a ſort esta blished at the junction of the Mississippi and Ohio rivers, but upon inspection I find that I was mistaken as to its situation. It was built on the left bank of the Mississippi, a few miles below the Ohio, but has long since been abandoned as useless. - The land immediately above and below the mouth of the Ohio is too low to admit of fortifica. tions or permanent settlements being made with any prospect of success, as the height and fre quency of the inundations would always render them unhealthy. There is at present one solitary hut upon the upper point, which is always aban- doned when the waters rise to a certain height. The Louisiana side is much more elevated; but - - - Colonel B–, who resides here, informed me, that he had twice seen it covered with eight or ten inches of water in the course of thirteen years. The point of land above the Ohio, is perhaps as rich a soil as nature can produce, having been formed by frequent layers of mud and slime depo- sited by repeated overflowings of the river, and when moistened by a flood or continued rain, be- comes soft and slippery like soap. The surface of the margin of this tract, for a quarter of a mile in breadth, and as far as I walked, which was about two miles, in length, exhibits something of a curiosity, being cut and chequered in a thou- sand different forms and figures, by the contrac- tion of the soil, occasioned by a long continuance of dry weather. Some of these fissures are so broad and deep, that unless you look before you at every step, you fall in up to your knees. The edge of this soil is covered with a thick growth of willows, which are always the first occupants of a new accumulation of soil, and grow here to a very large size. These trees are ranged in such regular order, that a stranger being in- troduced into a grove of them without knowing how he got there, would conclude he was in some old nursery grounds, as every year’s growth may be traced distinctly, the youngest being always in front nearest the river, and the oldest in the rear. I found large groves of these willows, which at a distance had the appearance of having suffered VOL. II. C. increase of weight, they are broken off. We like- middling sized saplings were bent to the ground, from a hurricane or tornado, but, upon a nearer examination, I discovered that this scene of de struction had been committed by a tribe of the feathered creation Here was a space of about forty acres of willows, which had not only all the branches broken off, but likewise many of the while the surface was literally coated over with dung and feathers. I soon discovered that this was a pigeon-roost, and that, from the myriads which come every evening to the same place, the branches are crowded at every twig, until, by the - wise found wild geese and brant in the greatest plenty at this place, and so little afraid, that we could at any time approach within fifty yards of them. You may judge of the facility with º which they are shot, when I inform you, that I knocked over fifteen in less than two hours. They appear to have changed their manner of living with the country they inhabit; for with you they are generally seen on the water, but here they seem as constantly attached to the land; nor will they indeed take to the river, unless frequently disturbed. This, however, may be owing to their finding their food altogether on the shores at this season of the year, and it is not until that fails, that they resort to the shallow waters. They do not partake in the least 19 of that rancid, fishy taste, so common to those on the coasts, and, in my opinion, are far prefera- ble to our tame geese, - - The people of this country frequently catch the young goslings before they can use their wings, and rear them with a tame brood. It is necessary, however, to keep their wings cut for the first year, as they sometimes will join a flock passing over, particularly if it flies low. I have seen flocks of twenty and thirty raised in this manner around some yards, and they appeared perfectly tame. I likewise saw several broods of the wild turkey, produced in a similar way: these are procured by placing the eggs, which are frequently found in the woods, under a hen or a tame turkey, and the brood become as much attached to the barn. yard as if they had a claim to it by hereditary right. I shot several dozens of wild turkeys in descending the river, but could never discover the least difference betwixt them and those we have domesticated. They can scarcely be denominated wild, as we frequently passed within thirty yards of flocks which were drinking by the river, with- out their showing the least signs of alarm. In descending the Ohio from Pittsburgh to this place, you pass no less than eighty-five islands, many of which contain from a hundred to some thousand acres, and are all composed of the richest soil; most of them, however, are so very low as to be entirely useless, being frequently covered with water. I likewise remarked, that most of the spurs or ridges of mountains, and highlands, generally extended from the north-east to the south-west; more elevated to the east, but gra- dually subsiding into plains as they advance to the West. - I certainly was much disappointed in my ex- pectations, when I arrived at the mouth of the Ohio, and entered the Mississippi. From what I had heard, I anticipated something awfully grand or beautiful from the junction of two of the largest rivers on our continent. Judge, then, how much I was surprised, when we passed from one river into the other, without being sensible of any other change than that of an increased ve. locity of current. Indeed, had we not been on the watch, we had glided into the rapid and mighty Mississippi, and still thought ourselves on the gentle Ohio. - The inhabitants of the Ohio country in general have very little of that unmeaning politeness, which we so much praise and admire in the At lantic States. They are as yet the mere children of nature, and neither their virtues nor their vices are calculated to please refined tastes. They are brave, generous, and humane, and, in proportion to their population, are able to produce the most effective military force of any in our country. 2}. This preeminence may chiefly be attributed to their exposed situation on an Indian frontier, where they were not only kept in constant danger and alarm, but even found it necessary to teach their sons and daughters, as soon as they were big enough to raise a gun, to load and level the rifle. On more than one occasion have I seen these Spartan females, while engaged at the spin- ning-wheel, or in some other domestic occupa- tion, snatch up the loaded rifle, and fell the bound- ing deer as he incautiously passed within shot of the cabin. But since peace has been established with the Indians, (most of whom have removed to a greater distance from the whites,) the rifle has become the target of honour among these hardy Americans; and a Kentuckianº would scorn to shoot a squirrel, or even a swallow, un- less with a rifle; in the choice of which they are even more particular than in selecting a wife. There are a number of rifle manufactories esta. blished this country, but the best and handsomest I have seen are to be procured in Kentucky and Tennessee, where they are made of every size from twenty balls to the pound up to one hun- dred, and the price from fifteen to a hundred dollars. The inhabitants of this country, however, la: bour under one very great inconvenience, which - º All the inhabitants on the Ohio are here called Ken- duckians. arises from the scarcity of cash; as, for want of a sufficient circulating medium, their trade and deal- ings are necessarily confined to barter. The mer. chants, whose stores may be said to be so many collectors' offices, receive their goods overland from New-York, by way of Alexandria, Phi. ladelphia and Baltimore, and some small sup- plies from Alexandria. Payments are made to º them chiefly in the bulky produce of the country, the only market for which is at New-Orleans. The consequence is, that they are constantly oc- cupied in collecting all the specie they can, in order to make their remittances overland. Several plans, I am informed, have been projected for detaining the money in the country, but none I believe have perated so effectually as that in practice in the States of Kentucky and Tennessee. Here a round dollar no sooner makes its appearance, than it is divided from the centre into eight equal pieces; and some, I am told, carry their ingenuity so far as to make nine and even ten eighths out of a dol- lar; securing at once a profit of twenty-five per cent for their labour. - The country above Cincinnati is healthy, and free from all kinds of bilious complaints, although the shores of the river are generally one continued and impassable bed of mud and slime. On the con- trary, the shores below are more dry and gravelly, and frequently present a clean beach to the eye; yet they are very subject to complaints of the 23 bilious kind. I was not a little surprised, when I first noticed these circumstances, as the facts turn- ea out so different from my own calculations; but upon a more minute inquiry, I think I discovered the cause in the great difference of the face of the two divisions. The upper being a more hilly and mountainous country, affords an easier descent for the waters; while the lower is gradually subsiding into a plain and level country, where the lands back from the river, being in many places consi– derably lower than the banks, retain large portions of water from every rain or inundation; these, for want of a passage to the river, soon become stag. nant and putrid, and give rise to complaints, from which, in the other case, they would be perfectly exempt. - - - This country being as yet quite new, it cannot be expected that any extraordinary advances should have been made in the propagation of fruit-trees, especially of those kinds which require a growth of ten or twelve years before they become pro- fitable. Apples, pears, and cherries, are, therefore, not to be considered as common on the Ohio, although, in some of the old interior settlements, they have them in abundance. The peach tree, however, may be said to cover the banks of the ri ver, as there is scarcely a settlement between Pitts. burgh and the Falls of the Ohio, that has not one one or more orchards of them. At three years of age they begin to bear plentifully; and indeed it 24 often becomes necessary to shake of a portion of their superabundant load. Peach-brandy is dis- tilled in great quantities every season, and con- stitutes a considerable branch of the domestic trade of this country. While descending the river, we landed daily, for the purpose of pro- curing a supply of peaches, the price of which was generally from twelve and a half cents to a quarter of a dollar per bushel. - The following are the natural fruit and forest. trees, which I noticed on the banks of the Ohio; mandrakes, currants, grapes and small berries of various kinds, plums, mulberries, wild cherries, black and white haws, buck-eyes, pa- paws, and cucumbers; likewise black walnut, white walnut, butter-nut, chesnut, honey-locust, pecan nut, pines, sassafras, white-oak, black-oak, dog-wood, locust, beech, ash, elm, sycamore, su- gar-maple, soft maple, tulip, (magnolia) black thorn, Jerusalem oak, or spice oak, cotton or pop- lar, and of willows an endless variety. I do not recollect meeting with any white pine below Pitts- burgh, nor with any pitch or yellow pines below the Falls of Ohio. I have now given you a detail of my progress over a route of more than two thousand miles to - this place; but whether I shall descend imme- diately to New-Orleans, or ascend to Cape Gi- * Pecan nuts are first found below Scioto. - rardeau, St. Genevieve, or St. Louis, or even as far as the Missouri, I am undetermined. I have a great inclination to visit the Mines, and the ca- pital of Louisiana, especially as I can hardly ex. pect to have a better opportunity. I shall consult my pillow, and resolve to-night. To-morrow’s sun will therefore behold me either rapidly pass- ing down into the mild and genial climates of the south, or slowly creeping through snags and saw. yers towards the more unpleasant but vigorous seasons of the north. - Yours, ºor. ii. - †, * LETTER xx. Cape Girardeau, (Louisiana) - October 27, 1807. Dear Friend, YOU will perceive that my compass has point. ed to the north, and that, instead of descending immediately to New Orleans, I have determined to make a short excursion up the Mississippi. Independently of the desire I had to ascend this river and visit its capital, two other circumstances occurred, which finally induced me to make the attempt. The first was the report brought up by a barge just arrived from New Orleans, that the in- habitants were dying there so much faster than they could be buried, that the negroes were provided with long poles and hooks, with which they drag- ged the bodies of the dead to the Mississippi, and ºthere committed them to the flood. My hands - were all aback at the recital of this melancholy news, nor could they by any means be prevailed upon to continue the voyage. The other was, that as no hands could be got in this part of the wil- derness, I should be under the necessity of going up as high as S. Genevieve, which is nearly two- thirds of the distance to St. Louis. Having, there. fore, an opportunity of taking a passage in the barge just mentioned, which was bound to St. Genevieve, I determined at once to pay off my hands, and leave the boat at the mouth of the Ohio. - While the necessary preparations were making for our departure, I walked some distance up the Mississippi, when I perceived an animal of a black colour, nearly in the middle of the ri- ver, making frequent splashings in the water around him. I was much at a loss to conjecture what it could be, and the distance prevented me from satisfying my curiosity. I soon noticed, however, that it made no progress towards either shore, but seemed rather to swim down with the stream. My eye was steadily fixed on this object, until it came in a line with a low white sandy. beach, when suddenly I perceived a man, rising as it were out of the sand, who with one arm point. ed up the river, while with the other he made all the violent motions he possibly could. I soon distinguished the sound of his voice, but was unable to comprehend the meaning either of his words or his actions. The only idea that struck me was, that he mistook me for some other per- son, and wished to be taken across the river; and that he pointed to some place where a boat might 28 be procured for that purpose. I began, however, to retrace my steps, still keeping my eye on the man, as likewise on the first object, which now appeared to be sitting on a piece of drift-wood, from which it was every now and then jumping into the water. As soon, therefore, as I came within hail of the barge's crew, I informed them of my observations, and pointed out the man who seemed to follow me, and still continued the same violent actions. The crew no sooner saw him and observed his motions, than they cried out, that there was a boat lost, while the captain or- dered every man to their relief. Five, with him. self, jumped into my empty boat; two into the small skiff; two more into a canoe which I had picked up the day before, and Colonel B–, with three of his negroes, in his own boat, all went of to their assistance. Before they were at any great distance from the shore, I ascended an old tree on the bank of the river, and perceived the head of one poor fellow, who had clinched a floating tree, and, although he had dropped down below us, and passed within hail of our camp, yet, in all human probability, must have been lost, had Î not seen him just as I did. I pointed him out to the small canoe, and had the satisfaction to see him taken in and landed at our camp, The poor fellow was unable to walk, stand, or even sit, without support; and the men who took him up informed me, that he had not spoken a sin- gle word; nor was it indeed without great diffi- culty that they broke his hold from the tree. The remains of the wreck began about this time to float by us, and consisted of a long string of trunks, chests, boxes, kegs, barrels, bedding, packs of furs, and buffalo robes; most of which were saved by our boats. With great difficulty three men belonging to the wreck had gained the opposite shore, to which they were nearest when the acci- dent happened. Three more, by hanging on oars and boards, were carried into the middle of the river, and after drifting about one mile, found they were nearest to our shore, where, with the greatest difficulty, they effected a landing. Two were drowned immediately after the boat struck. One of these was an excellent swimmer, and, it was said, would on any other occasion have swam across the Mississippi for a frolic; but on the present occasion so effectually lost his presence of mind, that he was unable to swim a single stroke. On the other hand, the one we picked up had never learned to swim; yet, having caught hold of the gang-boards, he held on until he was carried into a lodge of driftwood, where he received a very severe bruise on the head; and although it must have nearly deprived him of his senses, he said he did not then feel it, and had even pre- sence of mind sufficient to exchange his gang. soard for a whole tree, upon which we found 30 him. The black object which I first descried they informed me was a tame bear, which had been chained to the steering-oar, and his frequent tumbling into the water was probably occasioned by the shortness of his chain. This boat was loaded with lead and furs, bound from St. Ge. nevieve to Louisville on the Ohio, and about six miles above the mouth of the river must have been struck with a sleeping Sawyer, there not be- ing the least sign of any ripple or commotion in the water. I find, since I am on the Mississippi, that I shall be under the necessity of using many terms not very familiar to you. I shall therefore furnish you with a kind of glossary of them. - Sawyers are the bodies of trees, whose roots have by some means become fastened to the bot- tom of the river, in such a manner, that, from the continual pressure of the current, they receive a regular vibratory motion, from the resemblance of which to that of a saw-mill, they have derived their name. Some of these have a very quick motion; others again are slower, frequently disappearing from one to twenty minutes, and then elevating their monstrous shafts from one to ten feet above the surface of the water; and wo betide the boat whose bottom comes in contact with them at this unlucky moment Sleeping Sawyers are the same as those just - mentioned, except that their motion is entirely 4. 3]. under water, and the danger proportionably great- er, as it is impossible to discover them before you feel the dreadful effects of their power. When their heads approach within twelve or fifteen inches of the surface of the river, an expert boatman will discover them by the ripple of the water with which they are accompanied ; but when they are three or four inches lower, it is impossible to as: certain their position. - - Planters are likewise large trees, firmly bedded by the roots in the soft muddy bottom of the ri- wer. Some of these stand perpendicular ; others have an inclination down the stream, and a few upwards; which last are by far the most dangerous. These trees have at first all their branches, but the - immense quantities of floating timber soon strip off the whole, and sometimes leave a perpendicular shaft of thirty or forty feet in height, and twelve in circumference. - - Falling Banks are so called from their being undermined by the current in such a manner, that small portions are continually falling. It very often happens, that masses of an acre in extent, disappear in an instant; and trees, which were once growing on a bank thirty or forty feet above the surface, now seem half buried in the water. This phenomenon is easily accounted for, the bank being composed entirely of that rich, loose, and friable soil, which I noticed near the - - 32 mouth of the Ohio, without any thing to bind it together, or resist the force of the current, which is always strongest in these places. The conse- quence is, that its base is constantly wearing away, till at length the weight of the projecting bank becomes too great to maintain its adhesion, and, obedient to the laws of gravitation, falls to the bottom of the river. - - From this description you will no doubt see the propriety of always avoiding these banks, and preferring willow points or islands for encamp. ments. I do not recollect a single instance of meeting with falling banks on both sides of the river at the same time. - Wooden Islands are generally formed at the upper end of a real one, where an enormous col- lection of trees and floating timber becomes en- tangled and matted together, sometimes to the extent of nearly a quarter of a mile, and in time makes part of the main island. These are very dangerous, as the depth of water at their head or point is requently thirty, forty, or sixty feet, and the velocity of the current is such, that notwith- standing the exertions of a large boat's crew which we met on the river, they very narrowly escaped being dashed on the point of one of these islands. - - - Floating Islands are the same as the above, be: ing indifferently known by both names. 33. I shall probably have occasion to make use of more expressions that are in vogue on this river; but as they are chiefly applicable to the navigation - below the mouth of the Ohio, I shall postpone any further explanations till I can make them from observations of my own. - I shall not be very particular in my remarks while ascending the river, it being my intention to describe the country more accurately on my return. I shall therefore at present give you little more than the names and distances of certain points on my voyage to this place. - After leaving the mouth of the Ohio, you as: cend fifteen miles, and come to a difficult passage called the Grand Chain of Rocks, which extends nearly across the river. Although, from the slow- ness of your motion in ascending, which never exceeds fifteen or eighteen miles a day, there is little or no danger in passing this reef, yet, in the present low state of the water, a loaded boat runs considerable risk of being wrecked in descend. ing, unless guided by an experienced pilot. Six miles below this reef you pass a stupendous mass of rocks called the Grand Tower, where the river turns suddenly to the left, and in the next mile turns again to the right; from whence you have fourteen miles more of a safe navigation to the town of Cape Girardeau. In ascending the river to this place, I counted nine considerable settlements on the Louisiana Wol. II. - E. - 34 º side, but not a single one on the Indiana. All these, however, were gratuitous grants under the Spanish government, which has been extremely liberal in encouraging settlers, - - Yours, - C. S. -- - - º º - - - - - - - LETTER XXI. St. Louis, (Louisiana) - - November 22, 1807. Dear Friend, HAVING landed you in my last rather abrupt. ly at Cape Girardeau, I am in the same haste to bring you to the capital of Louisiana. You will, therefore, after leaving the former place, ascend ten miles, and pass a town of the Shawanese tribe of Indians, situated on the Louisiana side of the river. Four miles higher, on the opposite side, is the mouth of Muddy River, where we encamped during the night; and never, during our travels, were we better entertained by a full concert of wolf-music. For my own part, my attention was so completely engaged all night, that I found it necessary to keep my bed the whole of the next day. From Muddy River to Picket Island, a very difficult passage in descending, is sixteen miles, and from thence to the mouth of the Kas. kaskias, is twenty more. Six miles higher, on 36 the opposite shore, yOu pass the mouth of Salina Creek, which is seven miles below the village of New Bourbon, and three more will bring you to the village of St. Genevieve, the port to which our barge was bound. - After having remained ten days at St. Gene- vieve, without meeting with an opportunity of ascending by water, I concluded to perform the journey by land, and, in order to diversify my route, resolved to cross the river, and pass through the Indiana Territory to Prairie Le Roche, Fort Chartres, and Cahokia, where, recrossing the ri- ver, I could return by way of the Mines. Leaving St. Genevieve, you ascend two miles, in the direction of the river, to the Little Rocks, where there is a good ferry. Six miles further, in a most charming country, being a continued prairie of the richest soil, you find Prairie le Roche, an old French settlement of about forty families, who are all Roman Catholics, and sup- port a confessor and chapel of their own. This village is built upon a very contracted scale, the streets being barely twenty feet wide. This apparent economy, however, was not without a sufficient reason at the time these settlements were made, it being done for the purpose of con- º solidating the village as much as possible, that it might serve instead of ſortifications, and that the inhabitants might always be near enough to assist ºach other in case of surprise by the savages. 37 The people of this settlement all live by tillage, and in their outward appearance seem but a few degrees superior to their savage neighbours; yet, when accosted, they immediately discover their national trait of politeness. About four miles from Prairie le Roche is situ- ated the celebrated post of Fort Chartres, which is said to have cost the Spanish government a hun- dred thousand crowns. It seems, that no pains or expense has been spared to render this fortress impregnable; and, as far as I can judge, without any other object than that of making it a general depository of military stores, as the situation is not superior to many others along the banks of the river. The whole of these extensive works were laid in stone and mortar. At the time of erecting them they were upwards of a quarter of a mile from the river, but, at the present moment, half of them. have fallen into the Mississippi, and, in a very few years, the site of old Fort Chartres will be sought for in vain - - After leaving Prairie le Roche, you pass fifteen miles over a tract of what appears to be a high level country, but in travelling forward you find it entirely cut up and chequered by deep sink-holes. Some of these are very large, and all serve by means of subterranean canals, to carry of the wa- ters to the bed of the Mississippi, as no streams or rivulets are to be found along the banks in 38 front of this tract. In winter these caverns like. wise serve as dens for bears, wolves, and otherani- mals, which are frequently found concealed in them. Their shape is nearly similar to the upper art of a tin funnel; and, throughout a distance of twelve miles, I think it would be impossible to a find a hundred acre lot without at least half a dozen of these holes. Some of the largest are two and three hundred feet across the mouth, and oftentimes so steep, that if cattle fall into them, they cannot get out without assistance. Having passed through this piece of broken ground, you next ride fifteen miles over one of the richest and most beautiful tracts I have ever seen. It is called the American Bottom, and is a prairie of such extent as to weary the eye in tracing its boundaries. On this tract there are some very considerable settlements, which raise large droves of cattle, and annually send of great quantities of corn, pork, and other produce, to New-Orleans. These bottoms, however, which are inexhaustibly rich, have their evils, being subject to ſevers, occasioned by putrid exhalations, and the continual moisture with which they abound. Even in the driest seasons of the year, a very slight rain renders the roads so loose and muddy, that to me they appeared almost impassable. This does not seem to be any great inconvenience to the natives, as they are accustomed to it; and if the mud does - 39 not quite reach over your boot-tops when you sit on the saddle, they call it a middling good road. About thirty miles above this place, you arrive at Cahokia, an old French settlement, which like. wise maintains a priest and chapel. This village consists of about a hundred and thirty houses, one dozen of which may be inhabited by Americans. It has heretofore had a considerable peltry trade, but the inhabitants at present chiefly live by tillage. The town of Cahokia, although apparently of con- siderable elevation, is still a damp and disagreea- ble situation, owing to its being too level to per- mit the rains to run off very easily. At this vil- lage you cross the Mississippi again, and after a pleasant ride of three miles along the bank of the river, find yourself in the metropolis of Louisiana, which is one hundred and seventy miles from the mouth of the Ohio. - St. Louis is beautifully situated on an elevated bank on the west side of the river. It contains about two hundred houses, which, from the white- ness of a considerable number of them, as they are rough cast and white-washed, appear to great ad- vantage as you approach the town. This is like- wise a French settlement, established in the year 1765; the inhabitants are chiefly Roman Catholics, and have a chapel and confessor. A small num- ber of American families have of late years settled in this town, and have had so much influence as to give a decided American ton to the fashions of 46 the place ; but as their numbers are too few to erect a church of their own, they have, by way of amusement, made arrangements with the father confessor, to give them a little lecture in his cha. pe every Sunday evening. I observed two or three Big houses in the town, which are said to have cost from twenty to sixty thousand dollars, but they have nothing either of beauty or taste in their appearance to recommend them, being simply big, heavy, and unsightly structures. In this country, however, where fa- shion and taste differ so materially from fashion and taste with us, they are considered as something not only grand, but even elegant. St. Louis has for many years past been the centre of the fur trade in this country; but this branch of business, I am informed, is now rapidly declining, in consequence of the game becoming comparatively scarce. - This town has been strongly fortified by the Spanish government, having two forts, two block- houses, four stone towers, and one half moon. These encircle the whole town on the land side, and are within gun-shot of each other. Some little care is still taken of the forts and barracks QCCú- pied by the garrison which is stationed at this place, but the towers and block-houses are en- tirely neglected, and, for want of repairs, already tumbling to pieces. º 4. 41 The ladies of St. Louis I had heard generally celebrated through all the lower country for their beauty, modesty, and agreeable manners, as well as for their taste and the splendour of their dress. I was therefore very happy in having an opportu- tunity of accepting an invitation to one of their balls, on the first Sunday evening after my arri- val; having previously attended the chapel, for the express purpose of being able to form some kind of judgment with respect to their claims; and Imust confess, that they appeared to be eminently entitled to all that I had heard in their favour. St. Louis is situated in lat. 38. 18. N. long. 89, 36. W. from which you would be inclined to believe the climate somewhat warmer than that of New-York, in lat. 40, 40; but I certainly do not think I ever experienced in that city colder wea. ther, at this season of the year, than I have felt in St. Louis for these few days past. I made this remark to some gentlemen who have lived here for four or five years past, but who formerly re- sided in Philadelphia; and they were of opinion that the winters generally were equally severe, but did not last so long. During my stay at St. Louis, I made a small excursion to the mouth of the Missouri, and found that it entered the Mississippi fourteen miles above the town, and to me appeared much the larger stream of the two. I cannot conceive what should have induced the first discoverers of these waters voº, 11. - F. 42 to have named the general stream the Mississippi, as the Missouri, I am informed, continues all its characteristic marks of muddiness and rapidity, down to the sea, while the Mississippi, from its junction, may be traced as a clear, limpid, and much gentler stream, to the Falls of St. Anthony, a distance of a thousand and thirty miles. Twelve miles distant from the junction of the two rivers, is the principal encampment of the garrison of this country. I did intend to have visited it; but in consequence of the rain, and the great anxiety of my company to return, who assured me they would not walk a hundred yards to satisfy their curiosity, if they had never seen it, I gave up my intention altogether. Twenty miles above the Missouri, the Ilinois river falls into the Mississippi from the opposite shore. This river is said to be four hundred yards wide, and is na- vigable for four hundred and fifty miles, with a very gentle current. It communicates by a port. age of five or six miles with the Chicago river, which falls into Lake Michigan; and should a ca- mal be opened, which I am informed is practicable at a very moderate expense, an inland navigation will then be opened from New-York to New- Orleans, with a land carriage of only nineteen miles. - - - considerable settlements have already been made for some hundred miles along the banks of the Mis- 43 souri River, whence they begin to send off con- siderable quantities of cattle, corn, and other pro- duce. The country through which this river flows, is represented as equal in extent to that on the Mississippi, and capable of producing every thing to be expected from a soil so rich and luxuriant. - Having remained much longer at St. Louis and its vicinity than I at first intended, I obtained di- rections for finding the Mines, which lie about seventy-two miles from the town. I had to travel through a perfect wilderness for the greater part of the way, having no other than a blind horse path, which is frequently lost in the innumerable tracks made by cattle, deer, and other animals, crossing from one bottom or lick to another. It was on this occasion that I had an opportu- nity of remarking what a powerful impression habit can have on the mind of a person, who not- withstanding he may flatter himself that he has so far the command of his own ideas as to be able to accommodate them agreeably to those made use of by others on a similar occasion; yet, when at- tempting to reduce it to practice, will meet with a disappointment. This I experienced in my inquiries respecting the road to the Mines. I was informed by one, who like myself had seen some of our new countries, yet never had travelled through a wilderness of Louisiana, that he had at- tempted the one I allude to. He doubted whether 44 I would be able to find my way through without a guide. I afterwards had an opportunity of re. ceiving further information respecting it from a native of the country, who told me it was a plain road, and that I could not possibly miss it; that I might even ride it at night by the light of the stars. This information was likewise corroborated by several others, who all laughed at the idea of taking a guide, as the road was very plain. I ac- cordingly set out on a Spanish horse, at a round gallop of six miles to the hour. These are a kind of animals you have probably never seen. They are generally about thirteen hands high, hardy, and full of mettle, and may almost be said to live by hard riding, as they are frequently galloped fifty and sixty miles in a day, without even halt- ing to feed. After riding about twenty miles, I found my path begin to grow so small and blind, that I was frequently under the necessity of riding back for a mile or two, in order to satisfy myself that I had not missed it altogether. About noon I heard the report of a gun on my right, and pre- sently after discovered a wounded deer making directly towards me: he was already so far spent as not to notice me when he passed, and before he had proceeded two hundred yards further, fell to the ground. Shortly after a party of five Indians hove in sight, and, lest it might have the appear. ance of fear if I avoided them, I turned my horse and rode up to them, in hopes of receiving some 45 directions respecting my route. I soon discovered that they belonged to the Osage tribe; yet, as none of them understood my inquiries particularly, the only information I received was that point of the compass in the direction of which the Mines lay. I had been informed at St. Louis, that at the dis- tance of fifty miles I should find a cabin, which to me, who had not of late been much accustomed to the saddle, appeared a severe day’s journey. I now consulted my watch, and finding that I had rode nine hours at the same rate, concluded I must be near that distance. A thousand times did I censure my folly in setting out on this journey alone, and a thousand times exclaim against my own stupidity and ignorance in expecting to find any thing like a road through this wilderness. That there was what my informers would call a road, I had no doubt, and that they might ride it at full gallop I could not dispute, as the whole wilderness is open and clear as an orchard. But I soon discovered that their ideas of a road differed very essentially from mine. They had never seen any thing like the road I alluded to, excepting the streets around the town, and therefore very natu- rally concluded, when I inquired for a road of more than seventy miles through the wilderness, that I had at least an equivalent idea of what kind of paths were dignified with the name of roads. Like- wise what kind of road might be expected to a village at that distance, with which they have 46 scarce any communication except through St. Ge. nevieve, by water. The consequence of my ad- venture was, that I pursued something that had the appearance of a trail, until I found the sun had set. Being now assured, from the time I had rode, as well as from the distance I had come, that I had lost my way, I thought it time to make prepara. tions for the night. Having prepared a good fire, tied my horse to a tree, and smoked a cigar by way of supper, I wrapped myself up in my watch- coat, and laid myself down by the fire, where I slept very soundly for about four hours. I was then awaked by the snorting of my horse, who was startled by some animal passing very sud- denly near him. Finding myself both cold and stiff, I spent the remainder of the night in smoking and walking round the fire, and with the morn- ing's dawn mounted my horse, and measured back my way to St. Louis with all convenient speed, where I arrived a little before dark; and for the present have laid aside the expedition to the Mines of Louisiana. - - Yours, LETTER XXII. St. Genevieve, (Louisiana) December 30, 1807. Dear Friend, AFTER my unsuccessful attempt to find the Mines, I remained another day at St. Louis, and then set out with a guide, who was a native, and well acquainted with the route. After leaving St. Louis, and travelling six miles, you arrive at a small French village called Carondelet, consisting of fifty houses, and is the first of that size which I have yet seen unprovided with a priest and cha- pel. From this place to the Mines, our route lay through a dry barren wilderness, covered with a stunted growth of oak timber, and so clear and open, that we could see for some miles round us. Fifteen miles from Carondelet, you ford a very considerable stream called the Merrimack river, which is about one hundred yards wide, and may, with some difficulty, be navigated in high water for about one hundred miles. There are some 43 very fine bottoms along this river, but too low for improvements, being subject to inundations from both rivers. About forty-five miles from the Mer. rimack, you ford another considerable stream, which empties into the former, and is called the Big River. It is, however, not quite so big as its name would seem to imply, being no more than thirty yards wide, and about six inches deep. It is not navigable, although some who have exa- mined it say, that in high freshes a boat might descend with great safety. From Big River the road begins to be much plainer, and after riding seventeen miles more, you arrive at the celebrated Lead Mines of Louisiana. - - The first you come to on the route I took are the Old Mines, where you find a small village of fifteen houses or cabins, situated on a small rich bottom, on one of the branches of the last men. tioned river. Two miles beyond the village you first see the earth on each side thrown up in hil- locks, like so many small hay-cocks in a newly mowed meadow ; and on alighting you perceive that the ground is closely chequered with cor- responding excavations of about six or seven feet deep. Five miles further, you arrive at the Mine Le Berton, the most considerable and respectable, in point of appearance, of all the establishments. This is a thriving little village of about forty houses, and from the number of new buildings just completed and finishing, bids fair to acquire 4. - - 49 some importance in this country. Three miles from Le Berton, and on the road to St. Genevieve, you pass the mines called the New Diggings, where at present are found about thirty temporary cabins; but as it is a new discovery, since the cession of the country to the United States, and withal a very rich one, I think it probable that it will have a rapid increase. Thirteen miles from the last are situated the Mines of Garberie, and se- venteen more will bring you to the Mine le Mott, which is the nearest to the Mississippi: the two last are not on the road to St. Genevieve, nor are they considered so productive as those first enu- merated. - - The reason why I have thus hastily enumerated the whole, is, that the observations I have to make will apply equally to all. This mode will there- fore save both you and me the trouble of a repe. tition. - - The above-mentioned mines are all situated in a district of country about fifty miles long and twenty-five broad. It is generally denominated the Mines, as the whole district abounds with lead ore, which has been found in almost every direction. The Mine Le Berton was discovered about sixty years ago by a Frenchman of that name, who being out on a hunt, had built a fire against an odd looking kind of a root, that pro- jected a small distance Out of the earth, and soon - - vol. II. G. 50 discovered itself to be ore by the fusion of those parts immediately acted upon by the fire. These mines at present send the greatest quantity of lead to market. The others have all been discovered at later periods, and new discoveries are made every day. - - It is not, however, the mere finding of mineral which makes what they calla discovery; for unless it be found in such quantity and quality as to be an object worth pursuing, it is neglected. The mineral at Mine le Berton is generally found in veins of almost every size from three feet in cir- cumference and under, and from six to twelve feet beneath the surface of the earth. At the New Diggings it is found from four to thirty feet under ground, where they are obliged to discontinue their work on account of the water coming in upon them. They have no contrivance to draw it off, except a single bucket, suspended from an arm in a crotchet, after the manner of most of our country wells. The workmen are ill provided with instruments, having no other tools than a pick-ax and shovel, with which they open a hole about six or seven feet deep, and four or five in length and breadth; if they are successful they enlarge the hole, but if not they abandon it and open another, either along side of the former, or - in any other spot where their fancy may direct. I have no doubt that those grounds or mines which have apparently been exhausted, or abandoned on 5i account of the water flowing in upon them, will eventually be found the richest discoveries yet made. I am of opinion, that in no instance have they yet fallen upon the main bed of ore, which probably lies at such a depth as will require the sinking of a shaft to a considerable depth, to ena- ble them to work it. Hitherto they have been contented with the small spurs or veins which are found near the surface of the earth. When the mineral is collected for smelting, they build up in the woods a back wall with two sides, about sixteen feet in front, eight wide, and six in height, with the floor a little inclining to- wards the back, where a few small holes are left for the lead as it melts to run into the moulds. Here they pile up wood and mineral in alternate layers, and setting fire to the whole, the operation of smelting is quickly performed. There is but one regular built air-furnace throughout this country, which is at the Mine Le Berton. The ex- pense of such a building is so great, and the mi- heral so plenty, that the miners prefer an open furnace, which in all probability cannot cost them more than forty or fifty dollars; whereas a proper air-furnace, like the one just mentioned, would cost them five or six thousand dollars. The price of mineral at the works is from eighteen to twenty dollars a thousand pounds weight, and the price of lead five dollars a hundred. The cartage to the landing is one dollar a hundred. Most of the mi -- 52 Heral found is so exceeding rich, that one han- dred pounds of ore will produce from eighty to ninety of pure lead. From an accurate calcula. tion which I have been enabled to make, I find that nine hundred and twelve tons have been smelted within the last year by the whole number of furnaces; but from the inexhaustible state of the mineral, I suppose that any quantity may be made, even to furnishing a sufficient supply to the whole world. A shot manufactory has lately been established at the Mine Le Berton, where any quantity may be had and of any size, at nine dol. lars the hundred weight. - The United States have reserved all lead mines not already located, which is a very prudent regu. lation. However, a gentleman has lately arrived from France, who lays claim to nearly the whole district, by virtue of a power from the heirs of a French officer, who held the same under a grant. Should this claim be confirmed, as those not in. terested seem to think it will, the whole of this immense wealth must fall into their hands, to the the ruin of numbers who now live in ease and affluence. Doctor B-, formerly of Westchester, has become considerably interested in the event of this dispute, as he claims an equal third of the New Diggings, comprising a tract of one thousand acrºss - - - The mine country is a very unpleasant place of residence, as the continual broils and º 53. quarrels among the workmen, as well as the proprietors, keep up a constant scene of warfare. You would certainly feel yourself in very suspi- cious company, were you to discover, that most of those around you wore a concealed dagger, and sometimes even two, one in the bosom, and the other under the coat; while others have a brace of pistols in the girdle behind the back. I have heard of a number of quarrels since I have been here, and of two or three being wounded by pistol- shot, but no lives were lost; which has rather been owing to the precipitancy of firing, than want of inclination to kill. It is not always that an ho- nourable challenge takes place on account of an affront or difference of opinion; but an instanta- neous plunge of the dirk, or a pistol to your face, is the first signal of war. They have, however, become so naturalized to these ideal dangers, that of three shots made within two yards of the ob- jects, none were followed with any thing more serious than the loss of three fingers of a hand, and a hole through the lower part of the crown of a hat, just grazing the skin and hair. This bad or good luck is owing to the activity of the antago- mist, who is generally aware of his opponent's in- tention, and prepared to knock the pistol up with his own as soon as it is presented. Rifle barrelled pistols are altogether used at this place, as likewise at Genevieve , and pistol-shooting at a mark for wagers seems to be a very general kind of amuse- ment among these people. - After having seen and examined the Mines, I became very anxious to quit a country whose in- habitants are so disgusting in their manners. I felt much better pleased, when I found myself some few miles on the road to St. Genevieve, to which place there is a good waggon road the whole distance, which is fifty-four miles, through a high, dry, and barren country, which, although somewhat hilly, is far from being either rough or mountainous. About midway you pass the Big River, and throughout this road, as well as all others that I have yet travelled in this country, you meet with deer and wild turkeys in abundance; but as there is only one solitary cabin on the route, which promises no enviable entertainment, a de sire to reach St. Genevieve, where you may ex- pect to fare better, will prevent any time being unnecessarily lost on the road. St. Genevieve is an old French settlement, plea- santly situated on the higher ridge of a prairie about two miles from the Mississippi, and contains two hundred families, among which are included about thirty Americans. The greater part of the inhabitants are catholics, who have their chapel and confessor. No other society is yet numerous enough to establish any other religion, and this seems to be but little respected among the few Americans who have settled here. The prairie, 4. 55 which is here denominated the Big Field, contains about fifteen thousand acres of natural meadow, rich and level as the planter could wish. This is surveyed out into lots of eighty and a hundred acres or more, and owned by almost every person in the town. As the prairie has no timber upon it, the trouble and expense of fencing would be very considerable: they have therefore but one fence around the whole. The manner of using and improving their respective lots is regulated by law and custom ; so that any person who per- mits his lot to lie idle, or who gets his crops in before his neighbours, cannot derive any benefit or advantage from turning in his cattle, as this is only allowed to be done on a certain day appoint- ed, when the gates are thrown open, and the whole prairie becomes a rich and well-foddered common for the cattle of the whole community. This cus- tom is likewise observed at most of the French settlements in this country. They appear to have borrowed it from the Indians, who, in order to save the labour of fencing, always cultivate their maize in one common field. This village, when first settled, was built in- mediately on the banks of the river; but it being there found rather low, and subject to be over- flowed by every extraordinary rise of the river, the inhabitants have removed it to its present situation. 56 St. Genevieve, which lies in lat. 37. 51. N. long. 89. 28. W. is the store-house of the Mines. All the lead prepared at those places is deposited either for sale or shipment at this place; from whence it is sent up the Ohio as far as Pittsburgh, and down the Mississippi to New-Orleans, where it is again distributed throughout the United States. Every inhabitant of the village is more or less engaged in digging mineral at the Mines, or carting of lead, wood, stone, &c. which, with a little tillage, constitutes their principal support. The French use a little kind of cart, made some- thing like those in your city, to which they har- iness two horses, one before the other, and drive altogether without reins. The blacksmith, car- penter, and tailor, were the only tradesmen em- ployed at this place; all the other necessaries and conveniences of life are procured by importation, at an enormous expense. The majority of the French in this place are almost as easily supplied as the native Indians: neither of them make any use of a hat or shoes; a pair of mockasons and a blanket seems equally common to both, except that the former will cut his into the shape of a coat, whereas the latter always prefers his loose. A creek called the Gauberie passes just above the town; and although at present perfectly dry, - yet from the size of its bed, it must at times con- ſain a considerable stream. This is the case with most of the creeks on this river as well as the Ohio. While I was at St. Louis I was informed of an American, formerly of New-York, who resided on the opposite side of the river, and whom mis- fortunes prevented from returning home. As I understood that he bore an unexceptionable cha. racter, and claimed connection with some of the most respectable families in our State, with whom I was acquainted, I sent him a note requesting to see him there, or at St. Genevieve. He accord- ingly a few days after called upon me at this place, and in the course of our conversation in- formed me, that he was formerly of Westchester county, in the State of New-York, and had been twelve years in this country. I afterwards disco- wered that he was a man of extreme sensibility, and, from his own story, unable to bear up. against some pecuniary misfortunes, which had induced him to leave his home and retire into this country, with a determination never to return, unless he should prove more fortunate. He had not heard from his family or friends, nor they from him during the whole of that period. I in- formed him that I was acquainted with most of his connections, and he appeared to be violently agitated when I told him that his father had died but a few years since. I made him an offer of my services to defray his expenses if he wished VOL. II. - H 58 to return; but he declined, and urged as an ex- cuse, the care and charge of a farm, which at that time depended upon him. - I have just received a note, containing the very unpleasant intelligence that my boat, which I left at the mouth of the Ohio, has been stove to pieces by a lodge of drift-wood, and totally carried off. This is not only a serious loss in itself, but the time required to procure another, or even a pas- sage at this season of the year, will, I am told, be attended with great delay. I had no intention of spending more than three weeks in this country when I first ascended the river, but, with the prospect before me, I may be detained a month or two longer. Yours; - 59 - \ LETT ER XXIII. St. Genevieve, (Louisiana,) - February 1, 1808. Dear Friend, YOU no doubt begin to suspect that I have either grown very dilatory, or that I am in pur- suit of something which affords me more amuse ment than common. Neither of these is the case, I can assure you, nor is there any thing at present which gives me greater anxiety than the impossi- bility of getting off for some time to come, on ac- count of the great drift of ice now in the Missis- sippi. I should scarcely have believed, had any one told me, that this great and rapid river is sometimes frozen over at this place, so as to be passable for two or three weeks together, although very few choose to make the attempt. From the experience I have had, I assure you, that the cold, for six weeks past, has been every way as severe as in the city of New-York. We have had se- veral falls of snow, and at this moment all the 60 y º lads and lasses in the village are driving in large parties through the town in things which they call sleighs, but so miserably coarse and ill made, that I fancy if one of them, with all the harness and “appurtenances thereunto belonging,” were offer. ed for sale in your city, it would not defray the expenses of Cartage. St. Genevieve does not seem to be in want of amusements, if eternal dancing and gambling de- serve that name. One ball follows another so close in succession, that I have often wondered how the ladies were enabled to support themselves under this violent exercise, which is here carried to ex- tremes. The balls are generally opened at candle. light, and continue till ten or twelve o’clock the next day. - They have, however, a very pretty practice of introducing their balls at the commencement of the carnival, which I shall endeavour to describe for your amusement. Two or three ladies make arrangements with their male friends for the first ball, during which two or more elegant bouquets are presented by the ladies to as many gentlemen; this piece of ceremony raises the select number to the rank of kings, and entitles them to the privi- lege of saluting the fair donors. The gentlemen then each make choice of a favourite lady, to whom with great politeness they present their bouquets: this mark of distinction likewise raises the fa- voured ladies to the rank of queens, and the gen- Gl tlemen take their pay in another salutation for the honour conferred. This ceremony having passed, it becomes the duty of the royal parties to give the next ball, previous to which the royal ladies pass many impatient hours in waiting for the silk shoes, gloves, stockings, bracelets, ear-rings, &c. which it is expected the royal gentlemen will have the royal goodness to present. The royal parties always do the company the honour to open their balls. - Whenever there is a ball given by even the most rigid and superstitious of these catholics, there is always one room set apart for gambling. - Pingtºn is the word; and never did I see people embark with so much spirit and perseverance to win each other's money, as in this little village. I have frequently known them to sit thirty hours at the same table without any other refreshment than a dish of miserable coffee, or a glass or two of sour claret; and I recollect one instance of an in- ſatuated young man, who could ill afford it, having lost eleven hundred dollars at one sitting. Exclu- sive of these frequent opportunities to indulge their favourite propensities, they have meetings thrice a week for no other purpose than playing their favourite game. Nor is it the French alone who pursue this destructive habit: the Americans likewise (with a very few laudable exceptions) have followed the same scandalous practice. - - 62 I am informed it has become a custom of long standing for every stranger who has resided two or three weeks in this village, to honour the la- dies with a ball before his departure. These balls are tolerably expensive for a town in the wilder- ness, as they generally cost from a hundred to a hundred and fifty dollars each. I am not certain but I shall venture to breakthrough this establish- ed custom, as it would take at least a hundred and fifty of these balls to afford me one dollar's worth of satisfaction or amusement. I was much surprised to find the savage cus- tom of carrying a concealed dagger practised like- wise at this place, and on more than one occasion have seen it fall out of the bosom, or from behind the girdle, while its owner was dancing with a lady, without her betraying the least sign of surprise or displeasure. The fair sex in general betray a certain degree of uneasiness at the sud. den and unexpected exposure of such murderous and assassin-like weapons; but custom, it seems, has blunted their finer feelings in this place, as they hardly notice the dagger, even when it falls at their feet. - - - - Sunday is much better known in all the French settlements of this country as a day of general amusement, than of worship. It is true, that as they have a chapel and confessor, they must ne- cessarily make some kind of use of them; they - º 63 therefore have a high mass performed every Sun- day morning, which lasts half an hour. Accord- ing to ancient custom, they ought likewise to have a low mass every other morning; but as this does not always suit the convenience of the father, it is mostly dispensed with. You see nothing of that general cessation from labour on this day so com- mon with you. On the contrary you see the slaves with their horses and carts (going on their own business) driving about as usual; and indeed no kind of work or amusement is suspended on ac- count of the day. There is commonly a ball on Sunday evening; and should the billiard-rooms, of which there are three in the town, be closed the whole week, you will always see them open and crowded on Sunday. From the character I have just given you of the inhabitants of St. Genevieve, you may be in- clined to believe that they are free and liberal- minded with regard to matters of religion. Yet this is far from being the case, as they remain in the most abject ignorance of every thing either human or divine, not immediately connected with the mass or wingt-un. They believe their priest or confessor possesses unlimited powers from the pope, to send each one to heaven or hell as he may think fit. - - As an instance of this confidence in the almighty power of their priest, I will entertain you with a singular piece of superstition, which I was in- 64. formed took place a few years ago. The Missis- sippi, it seems, had arisen to such a height as threatened to overflow the Big Field, and sweep off the whole of their crops. In this dilemma the credulous inhabitants flew to the priest, and in- treated him to form a procession with the holy host, in order to drive back the waters. The pries: hesitated, sometimes urging one excuse and some- times another, but after repeated solicitations told them he would make the necessary preparations, and, if possible, be ready that or the succeeding day. The height of the water had filled a number of small creeks, some of which ran up through the town. The holy father had paid particular attention to one, to ascertain the moment when the waters should begin to subside ; which, when he disco- wered, he ordered the chapel bell to be rung. Men, women, and children, of all conditions and com- plexions, soon flocked together; and with the holy host, cross, and two or three bells tinkling, they solemnly moved along, chanting “Pater nosters” and “Ave Marias.” The procession at length ar- rived at the edge of the water, where, in the name of the host the waters were forbid to rise any higher. And, strange to relate, within a few mi- nutes after they were discovered absolutely to have fallen nearly a quarter of an inch–not one of the multitude doubting the almighty power of the host!! - - 65 I have myself noticed several religious proces: sions, on the occasion of a person being very ill, and his life despaired of, when the host was car- tied with all the parade and pageantry their cir- cumstances would admit of preceded by the priest drest out in his pontifical robes; and every good catholic, on hearing the bells, runs to join the pro- session on so important an occasion - º I must not omit entertaining you with a ludi- crous circumstance which befel myself on the first day of the new year, which with the catholics is a day of great festivity and rejoicing. It seems they have a custom for persons who meet on that day to kiss each other. The negro kisses his mistress, and the master kisses his wenches. Yet no one could account for so strange a custom, although it probably is intended as a token of reconciliation, and forgetfulness of all past animosities. It was on the new year, that finding every person arrayed in his best, I thought I could not better please my landlady, who is a rigid catholic, than by con- forming to the fashion. I had accordingly just made some previous arrangements, and had my face well lathered in order to commence the ope- ration of shaving, when I was suddenly seized by the neck, and kissed. After the first salutation, I was able to move my head a little on one side, and found I was surrounded by eight Piorias Indians, all dressed in their best, who came WOL. II. I up in regular succession, and kissed me so com- - pletely, that I had not an atom of lather remain- ing on my face. These poor creatures, knowing that the vicar-general had taken his lodgings at this house, came, it seems, to pay him the com- pliments of the season; when, finding me dressed in black, without more ado they fell to kissing me; and falling on their knees, expected my blessing, without my being able to explain their mistake. In fact, the ceremony proceeded so rapidly, that it was pretty well over before I had recovered from my surprise. But as they still continued on their knees, I thought it would spoil the farce not to go through with the whole, and accordingly for the first time followed the trade I had served a regular apprenticeship to, by giving them my blessing, with a “ Domine vobiscum,” &c, and afterwards treated them with a bottle of whiskey, which I soon discovered they thought the better blessing of the two. The vicar. general, on his return, was so well pleased with the joke, as likewise with having escaped their greasy kisses, that he volun- - teered a bottle of the best from his own stores. These Indians are part of the remnant of the Piorias tribe, and consist of about twelve families, who are all catholics, and, from their inability to defend or protect themselves, have been permitted to settle at the lower extremity of the village. - The religious duties of the church at this place seem to depend wholly on the conveniency of the priest. If he fees disposed to rise early enough to hold a mass, he directs the bell to be rung. This signal is so well understood, that in a few minutes you see the women and girls, with no- thing but a handkerchief slipped over their heads, hurrying to the church, as the notice is so short that they have no time to decorate themselves, unless on a Sunday, when it is of course ex- pected. - . The French settlers throughout this country generally entertain a very bad opinion of the reli- gion of the Americans, and even go so far as to say they have no religion at all. This conclusion they have drawn from the sample which those Americans who have had the earliest intercourse with them, have given of their piety, which is said not to have been to our credit. They, however, entertain a very high opinion of our knowledge, spirit, and enterprise, and think we excel, in those points, all other nations. There is a small circle of Frenchmen, who, from a familiar intercourse with the Americans, have conquered both their local and religious prejudices, and may be con- sidered as agreeable society, when absent from the card-table. These again are considered by the mass of good catholics as very little better than atheists, for doubting of the infallibility and holiness of their old mother church. - - It is perceivable here, as well as elsewhere, that religion has fewer votaries among the male than 68 the female sex. I have frequently attended at their low mass, when I was the only male person pre- sent except the priest and bell-ringer. The cha- pel, which is a coarse but large frame building, has nothing in it worth noticing except two mi- serable effigies of St. Peter and the Virgin Mary. These may be considered as something of a cu- riosity; not from any merit they possess, but merely from their position, being placed on each side of the altar, and habited in such an absurd and fantastic manner, that had I seen them in any other place, I should certainly have taken her la- dyship for a gingerbread woman, and the other for some rake in disguise. At the lower end of the town is still to be seen the remains of a Spanish fort, which, being erected on an eminence, corresponded with that of Kas- kaskias by signals. I was informed of a very sin- gular transaction relative to the building of this fort, which, while it holds out another evidence of the shameless manner in which public works are conducted, bears honourable testimony to the in- tegrity of the then commandant of this district. It seems, after the fort was completed, the com: mandant had to wait upon the governor of the province to present his charges. They were ac: cordingly presented, and amounted to 421 dollars. The governor, after examining the account, re. turned it to the commandant, informing him there was some mistake. The commandant retired and 69 examined it again, but finding it entirely correct, presented it once more. The governor, on look- ing it over, informed him that it was still incor- rect, and advised him to consult with some friend, as he had omitted a figure or two. The commandant then called upon a friend to look over his accounts with him, who no sooner saw the amount, than he burst into a loud laugh, and taking up a pen added an 0 to the sum already stated. The commandant presented his accounts the third time, when his excellency replied, that it was not quite right yet. The commandant was amazed but what was his astonishment, when he related the affair to his friend, to see him add ano- ther 0 to the last sum, making it 42,100 instead of 421. On presenting the account the fourth time it was graciously received; and for the discharge of the whole a very small part was paid to the commandant. In the fall of the year, when the grass and woods are generally dry, the country on both sides of the river is almost continually on fire in some place or other. This principally proceeds from a cus. tom the Indians have of clearing the woods for hunting; which it effectually accomplishes by con- suming all the grass, weeds, and underwood, with which they are obstructed. It likewise in a great measure destroys the trees of the forests, as I have frequently travelled through tracts of thirty and forty miles in extent, upon which not a single †) free was to be seen that had not suffered from the fire; and it is from this cause that most of the timber in this country is of so stunted a growth. These fires likewise very often originate with tras vellers, who, after kindling one at each place of encampment, never extinguish them. The con- sequence is, that if the season is dry, and the wind strong, they will run over a large dis. trict of country in a very short time; nor will they halt until interrupted in their ravages by a river, swamp, or piece of burnt ground. These fires are so very common, that I do not recollect a single instance, in all my excursions through this country, of travelling two hours together, without an opportunity of lighting my cigar by some tree or fire in the woods. . These fires are likewise attended with some dangerous consequences to a traveller, who may be caught in the woods without the means of avoiding their dreadful approach; as they advance, with a fair wind, with a rapidity scarcely to be conceived. All those, therefore, who have occa. sion to travel this country, never fail to provide themselves with a complete fire apparatus, and when likely to be caught in such a situation, with. out any stream or swamp to retreat to, always strike up another fire, which immediately increases and spreads the way the wind blows, and by fol. lowing it up they are soon out of reach of the other fire, which, finding nothing to feed its fur- 7]. ther progress in that direction, passes off on each side. I have seen the light of one of these fires, when it was at a distance of forty miles from this place; and have even collected some of the dead flakes and cinders at the same distance from the fire which produced them. - To-morrow I shall take a journey up to the Platton, (a creek which empties into the Missis. sippi about forty-five miles above this place,) to see what progress has been made with a boat, which is there building for me. If she is completed, I shall set out immediately; but if not, I shall cross over to a place called the Eagle, where I hear there is one for sale. Yours, 7 2 - LETTER XXIV. Louisiana, Mouth of Ohio, March 6, 1808. Dear Friend, YOU will no doubt be pleased to find that I am once more in motion, and have descended the Mississippi thus far on my way to New-Orleans. The ice broke up about the third of February, and by the twelfth the river was entirely free, al- though the water continued remarkably low for this season of the year. It was not until the first day of March that we were enabled to bid adieu to St. Genevieve, owing to the difficulty of pro- curing hands, as a few days before several boats from the Missouri, St. Louis, and American Bot- tom, had called, and taken away most of the best boatmen belonging to the place. we embarked in a New-Orleans boat, for which I had to pay a hundred and fifty dollars, while one of the same kind at Pittsburgh would not have cost more than half that sum. This great difference is owing to 73 the difficulty of procuring plank and workmen; the former, from the want of mills, are very scarce, and of the latter, very few understand their business. For a particular description of this kind of boat I refer you to my letter while on the Ohio. It was sixty feet in length, fourteen in breadth, and five in height, all roofed in ; but not one pennyweight of iron, or other metal, in her whole construction. Unfortunately, our roof did not prove water-tight; therefore, whenever it rain- ed, we were under the disagreeable necessity of frequently shifting our quarters; but when this is guarded against, you may live very comfortably in one of these fresh water frigates. Three miles from St. Genevieve you pass New Bourbon, a small French village of thirty families, situated on an eminence on the same side of the river. This village is generally considered as an appendage of St. Genevieve, having no separate chapel or civil authority of its own. The vicar- general resides here during the summer, although he prefers taking up his quarters at St. Genevieve during the winter. - Seven miles below New Bourbon, still on the same side, you arrive at Saline Creek, a consis derable stream, and navigable for a few miles during a part of the year. Its banks or borders abound with salt springs, which supply the whole upper country with salt at the rate of two dollars a bushel. Considerable quantities are also sent up vo L. Irº K 74. containing about twenty-five gallons each, which produce about fifteen thousand bushels annually. site side, the Kaskaskias River empties itself into the Cumberland river into Kentucky and Tennes. see, where it frequently commands four and five dollars a bushel. These works are conducted in a similar manner to those already described on the Ohio, and at present have forty-six kettles, The proprietor informed me he expected two do- zen more kettles in a very short time, which he intended to set up immediately. - Six miles below the Saline, but from the oppo. the Mississippi. This is a very considerable stream, being navigable for a hundred and fifty miles, and flowing through a rich and fertile country, formerly inhabited by a powerful tribe of Indians, whose small remains, now reduced to a few families, still continue in the neighbourhood of their ancient village. The town of Kaskaskias, which is one of the oldest in this country, is situated within the Territory of Indiana, about three miles from the Mississippi, and six up the stream above men- tioned; but, on account of its distance from the banks, you perceive nothing of it as you descend the river. This was formerly the most flourishing of all the French settlements in this country, having been founded by the Jesuits when in the plenitude of their power, and having endowments for a college and chapel. The village has now declined almost to nothing, not more than fifty families remaining, who are chiefly Roman Ca- tholics. Like St. Genevieve, it is situated on a prairie containing several thousand acres of the richest soil. It once commanded a considerable trade in peltry, but, from scarcity of game, this has now almost wholly ceased. At a small dis- tance from the town is still to be seen the fort of the old garrison occupied by the Americans, while the opposite shore remained in the possession of the Spaniards. - - Twenty-four miles below the Kaskaskias you have to pass through a very dangerous channel called Picket Island Passage, which is on either side so full of snags, sawyers, and planters, as to render it extremely dangerous to attempt it in low water, with such an unweildy machine as that in which we navigated it. No less than six boats which had preceded us eight or ten days, were all more or less injured in this difficult passage; and it was only owing to the united exertions of all hands on board, that we were enabled to pass through without sustaining any other injury than that of staving in one of our posts or stanchions. About sixteen miles below Picket Island, you pass the mouth of Muddy River, which empties itself into the Mississippi from the left side. This is a very considerable stream, being navigable for sixty miles, and its banks containing the only sea-coal which has as yet been discovered in this country. ºn The Delaware and Shawanese Indians have a town about four miles below Muddy River, on the opposite shore, where we concluded to halt, in order to procure some dried venison hams. After having landed, and one of our Canadian sailors given the whoop, (a signal for trade,) we were soon visited by ten or twelve squaws, with their pappooses, to whom we soon made our wants known, and, after the customary prelimi- nary of a glass of whiskey, some of them were sent up to the town to bring down a supply. When the women returned, several men accom. panied them on board, one of whom, being rather better dressed than the others, and distinguished by a silver band around his forehead, and bracelets round his arms, I took him for a chief, and soon found that he could express his ideas tolerably well in broken English. Amongst the women who first came down to the boat, and had now returned, I discovered one whose accent seemed very different from the rest, and was likewise remarkable for being the most talkative of the whole group. I spoke to her in English, but she did not understand a single sen- tence except the words “You lie,” which seems to be a kind of by-word among them, which they use on all occasions, without comprehending its import. I inquired of the one who appeared to be the chief, whether she was an Indian woman. He informed me she was not, and that she had 77 been taken prisoner when so big, (pointing to a lad of about six years old,) with her mother. I inquired what countrywoman she was. He said he could not tell, as they spoke “no French, no English, no Indian.” After repeated inquiries as to the place where they were made prisoners, he replied, that she was not taken by their tribe, but had been transferred from another; and that he had heard she was from “ Schu-che-ai-naw.” It was a considerable time before I could compre- hend his meaning, as his slow mode of pronun- ciation, and lengthened accent on the third sylla- ble, did not strike my ear; but finally, by pre- wailing on him to repeat each syllable separately and distinctly, he made out in sound, as nearly as I could catch it, the above expression; which, after some reflection, struck me as having the nearest resemblance to our modern “ Susque- hanna.” Another circumstance, which tends to confirm the above opinion is, that as she spoke “no French, no English, no Indian,” her mother was most probably the wife, and herself the child of one of the German settlers, of whom there were considerable numbers on the upper - part of the Susquehanna, which was the Indian frontier of those days. I made some inquiries of her through the chief, but found she had lost all knowledge of her name, her country, and her friends, and barely knows, from the tribe with which she is incorporated, that her mother was a 78 white woman, who died about a year after her captivity. I spoke to her in German, making use of some of the most common and early words which children are taught, but she was equally ignorant of their meaning. I next inquired of the chief respecting the bones at Big Lick on the river Ohio, believing I should at least hear a confirmation of the tra- ditions already noticed, if nothing more. But in this I was disappointed; for although he fully somprehended the subject, he was either unable or unwilling to satisfy my curiosity. To a direct question I put to him, whether his people believed the animal still existed in the west, he replied by a negative shake of the head. In the course of the conversation he informed me that they intend. ed shortly to go to war with the Osage nation, who had stolen some of their horses when out a hunting last fall, and that they expected to be joined by a great number of their friends from the Lake, After leaving the Indian village, you descend ten miles, when you arrive at the town of Cape Girardeau, situated on an eminence on the right side of the river, and consisting of thirty houses, This is a new settlement as a town, but has long before been known as a plantation. From the goodness of the soil, and the well-known industry of the Germans, of whom there are considerable settlements about twenty miles back, the Cape 79. bids fair to arrive at some consequence, as it is the nearest point from which all the surplus stock and produce of the surrounding country can be exported. It is situated in lat. 37, 17. N. long. 89. 8. W. This village is thirty-five miles distant from the Ohio, yet it very frequently happens, that the floods of that river are so great as to be percepti- ble within ten miles of Cape Girardeau. This, however, can only happen when the Mississippi is low. In that case, the waters of the Ohio flow di- rectly across this mighty river, and by that means dam up the current of the Mississippi for twenty and five and twenty miles back; during the con. tinuance of which, even Kentucky or New-Orleans boats of the kind we are now navigating, have worked up the river for that distance. The same may be said of the Ohio when it is low and the Mississippi full, in which case back water has been observed nearly as high up as Fort Massack, a distance of about thirty miles. The country on the Louisiana side of the river, from the Missouri to Cape Girardeau, continues generally high; (always excepting the prairies along the margin of the river;) yet you perceive nothing like a mountain throughout the whole of this distance, although you may observe some- thing like a hill, forming a tolerably elevated ridge from one to four miles distance from the river. At Cape Girardeau the land on the same side 80 - begins to acquire more of the appearance of a rough and mountainous country. From the height it continues level for some distance; but before you reach the Grand Towers, it presents a per- pendicular rocky precipice of about two hun- dred feet. The Indiana side, on the contrary, is a plain level country, excepting a similar ridge of hills, which may be traced from be- low Kaskaskias quite up to the American Bot. tom, at a distance of from three to twelve miles from the river. From the Grand Towers to the Grand Chain of Rocks, the land gradually descends to its general level, which it afterwards continues without interruption. - - Immediately opposite to Muddy River, I re- marked a bed of fine chalk on the edge of a bank on the right side of the Mississippi. Ilanded with the skiff, and took a small sample for examination, which I found to be of a very fine quality. About fourteen miles below Cape Girardeau, on the left side of the river, you pass a small cavern called the Devil's Oven, which is situated upon an ele- vated rocky point, immediately on the bank of the river, but has nothing remarkable about it except its. form, which resembles that of a large oven. Directly opposite to this you are likewise shown the Devil’s Tea-table, which is a rock on the height of the elevated land, so curiously formed by nature as to have a striking resemblance to a large round tea-table, standing on a pedestal. 3] immediately below his Satanic Majesty's oven and tea-table, you pass what is called the Grand Towers, which certainly are the greatest natural curiosity I have seen on the Mississippi. The right bank of the river has now acquired a grand and lofty appearance. It consists of a solid per- pendicular rocky front, generally from one to two hundred feet in height. The river, after having rolled along the base of this mountain for some miles, suddenly finds its whºle course interrupted by an angle of the same stupendous foundation, through which, notwithstanding, it has scooped out a bay or basin of two or three hundred yards in length; but finding its efforts to force the solid rampart vain, it suddenly turns off to the left, and continues its course along the remaining border of the mountain. It is indeed astonishing to view the effect of the current of this mighty river, which, in forcing its way so far through a mass of solid rock, and af. terwards in retreating, (from the numberless whirls and counter-currents caused by the inequalities of the bottom,) has formed in this extraordinary bend. several curious and picturesque islands of solid rock: these being of a circular figure, with their sides perpendicular, and towering to a height of one hundred feet, have, at a distance, the appear- ance of being regularly built castles, or ancient - watch-towers; and it CVCn requires a nearer in. WOL. II. I. 82 spection to be satisfied that they are the works of nature. - The bend or basin in the rear of these Towers is entirely dry at low water; but when the river is high, every boat that is unfortunate enough to be drawn into it has very little chance of extricating itself, or avoiding almost certain shipwreck; as the unequal projection of sharp pointed rocks creates dangers which, together with the whirl. pools, render it almost impassable. About six miles below the Grand Towers you pass the Grand Chain of Rocks, which, in low water, as at present, is even a more dangerous passage than the one just mentioned. This chain extends in little clusters or islands entirely across the bed of the river, many of which may be seen above water at this season of the year; leav- ing, however, small spaces sufficiently large for navigation, to those who are acquainted with their situation, - From the appearance of the country above to this spot, I am inclined to believe that the Grand Tower ridge, and the Grand Chain of Rocks, formed, at some remote period, a barrier to the waters of the Mississippi, which perhaps in those days flowed off through the Illinois, and other streams, into the Lakes; or possibly it was a part of the ancient lake itself, which in such a case must have covered the greatest part of the Indiana as Territory, and other adjacent parts of the country. My reason for this hypothesis is, that the Grand Tower ridge, after having passed the Mississippi in the Grand Chain already described, is to be traced through the southern extremity of Indiana, where it again passes the Ohio by the name of the Big Chain of Rocks, and from thence is lost in the high lands of Kentucky, about eighteen miles above the mouth of the Ohio. This ridge may properly be said to divide the country west of the Mississippi into a higher and lower region, The whole country below, even as far as New- Orleans, on the right side of the river, is said to be a low horizontal level, subject to be inundated by every rise of this mighty river. Whereas the country above is sufficiently high to have served for the bounds or banks of this ancient lake; excepting at the lower end of Indiana, where pro- bably on account of its looser texture, it may have been wasted away. - - It is likewise well known, that even at this day we may pass from the Mississippi through the Ouisconsing River into Fox River, which empties into Lake Michigan, and thence through Lake Erie and Lake Ontario. I have seen several Indian tra. ders, who say, that when both rivers are full they have navigated the Illinois, (amild and gentle stream, with very little current, flowing through a dead level country,) within a mile of another commu. 84. nication with the same lake: so that a very trifling additional rise of the waters, would afford a con- stant and open communication between the two rivers. - - - Another corroborating circumstance, that some great change has taken place in this country, is to be seen in the appearance of the stupendous ridge of rocks found on the land side of the large and extensive prairies, particularly that called the Ame. rican Bottom, on the left side of the river, said to be seventy or eighty miles in length, which exhi- bit evident, and I will say undeniable, marks of having at some distant period been washed by a body of mighty waters. These prairies are ge. nerally bounded on the inland side by a stratum of solid perpendicular rocks, strongly resembling the bold and rugged shores of some great river or lake; yet probably have not been washed by the Mississippi as a river, nor even as a lake, for some thousands of years. - The prairie at St. Genevieve is likewise bound. ed on the land side by a similar ridge of bold, rocky hills; and although the river in its highest stage never reaches to the base of the mountain; yet the remaining marks of a water-course are so very plain and self-evident, that no one who has ever taken the trouble to examine them, hesitates a moment to declare, that they were once washed by the Mississippi. From these data I have con- 35 jectured, that some mighty convulsion of nature, º probably like that which rent the iron mounds of Niagara, might likewise have burst asunder the barrier of the Grand Tower on the Mississippi; and by their giving vent to the accumulated wa- ters above, drained off and exposed to view those large and extensive flats and shoals, which time and vegetation have since converted into natural prairies. - - After having passed the Grand Towers and the Grand Chain of Rocks, you may be said to have passed the most difficult part of the river between the mouth of the Ohio and Cape Girardeau. The remaining distance, which is only fifteen miles, is at all times safe and easy; but in consequence of a great rise in the Ohio, we found the Mississippi backed up to the Grand Chain; and within two or three miles of its mouth, we actually drifted up the Mississippi. We lost one whole day in descending this small distance of the ascending Stream. - - In consequence of the little progress made on this day, I spent the greatest part of it on shore with my gun, and found sufficient amusement in shooting pigeons along the banks, where they were at rest on the trees. The woods being literally covered with them, I soon had more than I could carry to the boat. The geese and brant are all gone from the point where they were in - 86 such plenty when I was here last, and very few ducks are now to be seen in the river; yet I often found means to shoot them in the small pools and - ponds in the woods. -- Yours, LETTER XXV. New Madrid, (Louisiana,) March 9, 1808. º Dear Friend, - - IN descending the Mississippi from the Mis. souri to the mouth of the Ohio, you pass twenty- three islands, not one of which is susceptible of improvement, on account of the dreaded inunda- tions of the river. You likewise pass several plantations scattered along the right side of the bank of the river, but not a single one on the left below Kaskaskias, a distance of nearly one hun- dred miles. Most, if not all the improvements on the right side were made under the Spanish government, who gave every possible encourage- ment to settle the frontier of this province. Every family which arrived with an intent to settle, re- ceived, on a proper application, a title and grant for from two to eight hundred acres, according to the number of souls in the family. The greatest part of the settlers were Americans, who were 38 continually removing from some part of the United States to this country; and although I had always considered the Spanish government as one of the most despotic and tyrannical upon earth, yet these good people have given me so favoura- ble an account of their situation, that I am in- duced to change my opinion. I have met with several of these settlers, who did not hesitate to give the Spanish government a decided preference over that under which they now live; and for the following reasons: First, the poor and friendless wanderer, immediately on his arrival, could build up his cabin, and receive a good title to his few hundred acres, without paying anything for it. Secondly, he enjoyed full liberty of conscience, and had it at his option either to hear and pay a priest, or to let both alone. Thirdly, whatever he acquired by art, labour, or industry, was wholly his own, having no taxes or contributions to pay. And fourthly, they were never troubled with being called out either as jurors or as solº diers. This they considered as a particular ex- emption, and do not relish the idea of travelling sixty or a hundred miles, to attend to other peo- ple's quarrels or of carrying a gun and cartouch- box the same distance for one man to look at, and then bring it home again, - From Cape Girardeau to the mouth of the Ohio is about thirty-five miles, where we arrived without meeting with any accident whatever. We A. 89 * were under the necessity of making some stay at that place, for the purpose of procuring a hand from Colonel B–, to pilot us down to New Madrid; as our present pilot’s engagement ended at the mouth of the Ohio, which he intended to ascend. - - - I believe I neglected to inform you, when at this place before, that I had discovered a very cu- rious kind of chronometer for this country; and probably should have forgotten it, had not a sight of the same place recalled it to my mind. The circumstance I allude to is this: You will reco- lect that the river was remarkably low when I ascended, and in consequence of the slow and te— dious progress of the boat, I frequently went on shore. It was on one of these occasions, at about ten miles from the mouth of the Ohio, that I ob. served a large part of the bank newly broken of and fallen into the Mississippi. I thought this an excellent opportunity of ascertaining the number of inundations it had required to form the bank above the level of the water. I had before ob- served, in some places, the layers composing the banks tolerably distinct for a small height, but never so plainly as at this new fallen bank. In the first place, for want of means of more accurate measurement, I cut a pole by measure of my hands twenty-two feet in length. I then stuck it two feet in the ground, at such a distance VOL. II. - M * 90 below the bank, as to bring its top, when perpen- dicular, in a horizontal line with the upper sur- face of the bank; this gave me twenty feet in height. I next brought its top, while placed as before, in a horizontal line with the spot where it last stood, and in this manner I found the whole height of the bank to be forty-three feet and a half. I next proceeded to count the different layers, but was unable to ascertain those of the first five feet next the river, on account of the earth which had fallen from above; therefore can only judge of the number of layers it probably might contain, from the next five feet, which I found to consist of one hundred and thirty-three. The next ten feet con. tained two hundred and twelve; the third division one hundred and ninety-eight; and the fourth one hundred and ninety-one; making forty feet in height, and seven hundred and ninety-eight layers. The remaining three feet and a half, which were nearest the surface, contained no more than five layers that I could distinguish, making the whole number eight hundred and three. These layers were from less than a quarter to three inches in thickness, and although the lowest were generally the smallest, yet there frequently occurred those of an inch among them. It was not without con- siderable difficulty that I made out the examina- tion recited ; nor will I venture to say it is wholly correct, as in many instances the layers were very 91 small, and sometimes so intermixed and con. founded together, that I was under the necessity of substituting conjecture for facts. Yet I do not think I am far from the whole number of layers, which have formed the present bank. - From these data you will perceive, that although my new chronometer does not give the number of years which have passed during the formation of these banks, yet we may reasonably calculate that it has taken at least eight hundred inundations to deposit the like number of layers of earth which compose their present elevation. Having ascertained with sufficient accuracy the number of inundations which have been required to raise these banks, it remains to calculate the frequency of their recurrence. To allow one inundation annually would give us in round num- bers at most but eight hundred years; a period apparently too short for the formation of banks of forty feet in height. Yet I believe I can show, that eight hundred inundations must have taken place in a much less number of years. It is well known that these banks are now sel. dom overflowed, as well from the accumulation of decayed leaves, trees, and other vegetable matter, as by the river deepening its own channel, and there- by lowering the surface of its waters. In order, therefore, to bring them more generally within the reach of freshes, let us deduct the odd three and 92 a half feet of my measurement; when, by allow- ing only a spring and fall inundation for each year, it will give us a period of four hundred years. But although the Mississippi is not subject to regular autumnal inundations above the Ohio, yet, as it is always affected by those of that river, I should think an average calculation of two for each year would be hardly sufficient. I shall therefore pro- ceed to give you another calculation, which, upon summing up, I find gives nearly the same result. It is obvious, that while the banks were low, they were more subject to inundation; and consequently must always have been overflowed with every trifling rise of the river. We will therefore Sup- pose, that the lowest division was overflowed as often as five times in each year, which will give us a period of fifty years. Allowing three times only each year for the second will make seventy years more; for the third division say twice for each year, which gives one hundred and ninety-one years; and for the fourth one annual inundation only, will give an addition of one hundred and twenty-one more; making in the whole a period of four hundred and thirty-five years. Notwith: standing the result of these calculations, I feel myself lost in a wilderness of conjecture. For al- - though I am satisfied that the period is sufficiently long to give time for the number of inundations; yet my senses refuse to acknowledge the proba- 93 bility that banks of such stupendous height should have been formed within the same short period While we were refreshing ourselves at this place, we discovered a considerable fleet just heaving in sight, and descending the Ohio, which we after- wards found to be a large party of Indians, who, when they entered the Mississippi, made a halt on the opposite shore, where I soon observed they had lighted up their fires, which is always a sign that they have encamped for the night. I took two of my hands in the small boat, and passed over to them in order to pay them a visit; nor did I forget my letter of recommendation, a bottle of whiskey, but soon uncorked it, and in a few mi- nutes made a more general acquaintance than I expected, or even wished. I found three who understood a few words of English, and after some time a fourth, who ap- peared to be a young chief, and spoke very well. Although I have always found the Indians back- ward in discovering their knowledge of any lan. guage but their own, yet this one, after a peep at my letter of recommendation, became quite com: municative. He informed me, that their fleet con- sisted of fifty-one boats of every description, con- taining three hundred souls, men, women, and children, made up of the Delawares, Shawanese, Miamies, Potawotomas, Kickapaws, Poatowas, Wiandots, and some other tribes along the lakes, with all their families, who were emigrating into 94. Louisiana, where they intended, together with some Chickasaws and Cherokees, to establish a town upon La Rivière Blanch. He likewise informed me, that they had another object in view; that last spring they had received messengers from some of their friends already settled in Louisiana, as well as from some of the Chickasaws and Cherokees, to join with them in settling their new towns on the River Blanch, and afterwards to go to war with the Osage nation, in order to drive them out of their country, and take possession of their lands; that they had also been encouraged to this step by some of our chiefs; and finally had agreed to meet them at the River Blanch as soon as the grass was so high, (about four inches,) there to settle their squaws and pappooses, and proceed immediately against the cruel Osage; that they had already formed an alliance with the Shawanese and Delawares, who were settled in Louisiana, their relations, and the bitter enemies of the Osage; that they had all determined never to bury the tomahawk until they had either driven them beyond the Missouri, or extirpated the whole race. These Indians had descended the Wabash and Ohio in bark canoes, periaugers, and a light kind of flats, which they had purchased from the whites. They halted for the purpose of procuring a supply of wild potatoes, which grow along the rich banks of this river, where, by the falling 3. 95 and washing away of the bank they are found in great plenty. When boiled they are a very plea- sant and nutritious food. I endeavoured to obtain some information from this chief respecting the bones at Big Lick. He informed me he had passed them at four different times; and that it was not only his opinion, but that of all his people, that the animal still existed in some distant regions far beyond the lakes. Having gained all the information I could, we finished our visit, and returned to Colonel B–’s, from whence I had sent in search of a pilot, but without success. We had no alternative now, but to attempt a strange and to us dangerous naviga- tion alone, or to prevail upon Colonel B– to take us as far as New Madrid. I had already men. tioned such a favour to that gentleman, who sig- mified his willingness, but that he had that morn- ing received a letter from his commanding officer, requesting him to be prepared for any sudden or- ders, as the Osage Indians had committed some daring insults on some of the settlements. How- ever, as he was disposed to oblige, I persuaded him, that by sending his horse over land to meet him at the spot, he might return on the third day, and he at length consented to see us safe thus far. Having completed some little necessary arrange. ments in our boat, and Colonel B–’s horses sent on ahead, we again continued our voyage, and took a last view of the mouth of the Ohio about 96. noon. In an hour and a half we passed Fort Jefferson, a post five miles below the Ohio, situa- |ted near the mouth of Mayfield Creek, on the left side of the river, in the State of Kentucky. This Fort has long since been abandoned on account of its disadvantageous position. Fifteen miles below the Fort, on the same side, you pass the Iron Banks, a high elevated bluff, having a front of about a quarter of a mile on the river, and is supposed to contain large quantities of iron ore. This, I believe, is a mistake, as it appeared to me to be nothing more than the strata of different coloured clays, some of which have all the appearance of stone and iron ore. Five miles lower, on the same side, you pass certain high cliffs, about the same extent on the river, called the Chalk Banks. I went ashore in the skiff at this place, and procured several samples, which I found were likewise composed of clays of various shades. Some of these banks in dry weather have all the appearance of cliffs of chalk, especially when viewed from a distance. Eighteen miles lower, on the same side, I observed a small stream. called Bayou de She, which affords a shallow na. vigation. We saw three canoes with Indians just entering the creek as we came in sight, but had no opportunity of ascertaining who they were It was nearly sunset when we passed this stream. Our pilot therefore thought it prudent to land on the farthermost shore, as there was no other safe 97 landing-place within five or six miles below us. He gave orders accordingly; but the hands being all engaged in listening to some interesting story, the orders were not given quite early enough to attain our object; as the wind, which was off that shore, and the velocity of the current, soon carried us beyond our mark. In consequence of having been sheltered under the land by the trees for the last two hours, we had not noticed any change in the weather; but as the current now swept us past the point, which had covered us, and which we intended to make, into the middle of the river, we found a considerable swell, and every appearance of a heavy blow on a lee-shore. It had now be- come quite dark, nor was it long before the wind and current had carried us over into the bend of the river on the opposite shore, which was full of Sawyers and planters; and it was so dark, that we could not distinguish an object at the distance of fifty yards from the boat. We sent one of our men ahead with the small boat, to notify us of any danger, as likewise to discover a spot where we might possibly land. But the whirling of the water among the Sawyers, and the dashing of the swells against the banks, prevented us from dis- tinguishing the warning voice of our companion. We were by this time blown so close in with the shore, that we expected every moment to be wrecked. We already had several narrow escapes VOL. II. N 98 from the sawyers; some we just grazed ; others were so near as to be touched with the hand, and all of them strong enough to have shivered our boat to pieces, had we been so unfortunate as to come in direct contact with either of them. For three miles did we run in this perilous situation after dark, expecting every instant to be dashed to pieces, when we discovered a considerable number of lights ahead, and shortly after heard some voices calling to us to pull in for the shore. This we immediately began to do, and at last effected, but not without great risk to ourselves, as well as to part of a fleet of fourteen Kentuckians, who had made a harbour here for the night, and against whom we were driven with so much violence as to break four pair of their sweeps by en- deavouring to keep us from dashing their boats to pieces. After so many narrow escapes, and being withal exhausted by the violent exertions we had made, we were not a little pleased to find ourselves in a safe harbour for the night, sur- rounded by fourteen vessels and their crews, of the hearty lads of Kentucky. I cannot forbear observing at this moment how far some of our senses may be neutralized on cer- tain occasions, without even our knowledge or consent. The case I am now about to state is from my own experience, and relates to the sense of feeling. - 99 After the scene of danger and confusion just recited had passed over, and we found ourselves in security, I suddenly became sensible of a vio- lent pain about the nail of one of my fingers, which, on examination, I found had received a severe bruise, and that a large splinter was under the nail. I was immediately convinced, from the appear. ance of the wound, and the pain which I suffered, that I should lose the nail; yet when, where, or how I received the injury, I never could recollect; and can only account for my insensibility at that moment, by supposing that my senses must have been so effectually engaged with dangers of a far greater magnitude, as to have wholly deadened, my feelings to what (at the time) could only be considered a mere trifle, in comparison of the greater dangers we were striving to avoid. - After we had secured our boat, and got things a little in order, we were honoured with the visits of a great number of our neighbours; among whom we soon acquired the name of the French boat, from the circumstance of all our hands being French Canadians. I had already heard so many unfavourable stories concerning the charac. ter of the Kentucky sailors, that I did not enter. tain that fair opinion of them which I believe they generally deserve. All who visited me on this occasion behaved with as much civility and de- corum as could be wished, and on their departure very cordially invited us to their respective boats. 100 As the moon arose soon after, I had an opportu- nity of examining the fleet; which, although it did not quite equal that of Agamemnon before Troy, yet made a very respectable appearance in the wil- derness by night. The two first were loaded with tobacco from Green River; four with flower and whiskey from Cincinnati; two with horses from Limestone; four with families and household stuff removing to the river Amitié: two with cotton and tobacco from Cumberland; and two with lime in bulk from Virginia. After having visited most of the fleet, I went on board the family boats, and was most agreeably surprised at the neatness and order displayed in every part of them; far surpassing, in point of cleanliness and convenience, one half of the set- lements on shore. The boats were of the largest size, and the floors covered with rough sawed : In the rear a partition had been run across, in which they had stowed away all their present use SSS. furniture. Through the middle was a passage about five feet wide; on each side were small bed-chambers of about twelve feet long and six wide, divided and surrounded by clean white cotton curtains; while in front there was a large open space for the general use of the boat. Three of the four boats had each three charming girls on board; who, although plainly dressed, yet appeared equally neat with everything else on board. They informed me, that excepting our 101 boat, their present fleet consisted of four divisions, all strangers to each other, having met at this place by mere accident. While conversing with these agreeable strangers, the notes of a violin from one of the boats struck our ears, when a lively little girl exclaimed, “O, if we could get it on board we might have a dance!” Although from the violent pain of my finger, I was much better disposed for crying than dancing, yet my disposition to oblige the girls impelled me to give them a promise to find out the musician, and, if possible, to bring him, with some other company, on board. I found no difficulty in succeeding; and had it not been for my wound, should have enjoyed a very agreeable evening. The next morning at day-break we prosecuted our voyage, and had another very narrow escape from a sawyer, which all of a sudden showed it- self so near as to touch the side of the boat as it arose. This is one of those dangers which no human prudence can either foresee or prevent. The river was as smooth as glass, and most of us on the look out; yet we had no notice of this until the moment it arose, nor did we see it again as long as we remained in sight of the place. Had our boat been ten inches more to the left, we must have been wrecked. Having thence descend- ed thirty-two miles, and passed four islands, we arrived at the village of New Madrid, where we found the peach-trees in blossom. 102 It is very uncertain, after we pass New Madrid, whether I shall write to you again before I arrive at Natchez, as I am here informed that this is the lower end of the upper country, and the latter the upper end of the lower country; the intermediate space of nearly six hundred miles being almost wholly a wild and pathless wilderness. Should this prove to be the case, you will not find my next very interesting; but whatever may occur worth noticing, I shall not fail to apprize you of Yours, LETTER XXVI. Lower Chickasaw Bluffs, Tennessee, March 19, 1808. Dear Friend, My last informed you of my arrival at New Madrid. I shall now give you a description of that town, and then conduct you to this place by the route I came. New Madrid, which lies in lat. 36. 34. N. long. 89. 20. W. is situated on the right side of the river in Louisiana, two hundred and fifty-five miles below the Missouri. This town, which formerly, under the Spanish government, was pro- tected by a fort and garrison, contains at present no more than thirty indifferent houses, including the chapel, which is fast tumbling to pieces. It was first planned and laid out upon an extensive scale, about twenty years ago, by Colonel Mor- gan, of New-Jersey; but owing to some dispute between him and the Spanish commandant, he did not receive the encouragement which he deserved, 104. and which at that period would certainly have rendered it a place of some consequence. Imme- diately above the town is a small stream, naviga- ble for three or four miles when the river is high, the mouth of which affords a safe little harbour for the landing of boats. Large boats, however, ought to be careful how they enter; for should the water be falling, they may not easily get out again. A little below this town, on the opposite shore, is the division line between Kentucky and Tennessee. - - The banks of the river at this place are about two feet higher than the general freshes; yet it is said to have been once overflowed since its first set- tlement. The bank itself is fast wasting away, and from some change in the current of the river, con- tinues daily to lose. A great part of what was ori ginally intended for the front street is already washed away, and now occupied by the river. This can only be considered a great evil with re- spect to large towns, of which fortunately there are none on the Mississippi within reach of the river; but as far as it relates to some of the new settlements, experience has already taught them to make every allowance for the daily changes and inroads of this mighty river. - The land is perfectly level, not only around the town, but throughout the whole distance from the Grand Chain of Rocks above to this place, and from thence, it is said, to the Gulf of Mexico, a 3. 105 distance, by the river, of twelve hundred miles. About two miles back of New Madrid you reach the edge of the swamps, which run nearly parallel to the river for the same immense distance, and are said to be from twenty to fifty miles in breadth. - They begin to raise considerable crops of cot- ton at New Madrid, but it always bears the lowest price, as its quality is much injured by the early frosts. It will, however, answer very well for coarse homespun manufactories, when once the country becomes sufficiently peopled to create a demand. They raise corn and meat for their own consumption, but never have any to sell. On the contrary, we were repeatedly solicited by them to spare a part of our stores. Land is worth two dollars an acre exclusive of improvements; but the town lots do not seem to have any permanent value affixed to them, depend- ing rather on the temper and disposition of the seller. Should he be inclined to remove, you may purchase his lot for very little, but other. wise he is unwilling to sell at any price. What few inhabitants there are seem to have very little intercourse with each other. The men mostly ſolº low boating, and the women, during their absence, make out to raise a little corn to keep themselves alive until the return of their husbands, when they eat, drink and dance as long as their money lasts. "VOL. II. O 106 and then take another trip to obtain a fresh sup- ply. This place lies in lat. 36. 28. N. long, 89, 20. W. - - We were entirely disappointed in our expecta- - tion of obtaining a pilot, or pattroon, as they are called, unless we would consent to lose three or four days at this place. Rather than do that I de- termined to follow the first Kentucky boat that should pass, as it was but thirty-three miles to Little Prairie, where we were assured we could obtain a pilot. A few minutes before we started, a Chickasaw Indian came on board and requested a passage as far as the Chickasaw Bluffs. The Frenchman who brought him on board informed us, that he was one of a small party whom we had passed higher up the river, and expected to find several families of his nation at the Bluffs, who were about to join the party at Rivière Blanch. The other did not understand English, or care. fully concealed his knowledge from us, as we were unable to learn any thing from him. This Indian was a stout, hearty, athletic looking fellow; yet I was surprised to find his hands so tender as they proved to be. At one time we had great oc- casion for all our help at the oars to prevent being drawn into a wrong channel. I had taken hold of one, and as he stood by signified to him to assist at the other. When we had done rowing, which was in about half an hour, he came and showed me his hands, which I found blistered quite across. 107 Having descended thirty-three miles from New Madrid, and passed seven islands, we arrived at a small village of twenty houses, situated on the right bank of the river, and called, from its situa- tion on a natural meadow, Little Prairie. After landing, I found we should not be able to get off for that day, as the pilot whom I parti- cularly wanted, had gone a few miles down the river, and would not return before evening. In order, therefore, to make the most of the time we should have to stay, I gave orders to have the boat completely washed and rinsed outside and inside, which had by this time become very necessary, from the increased warmth of the weather. The roof was likewise in a manner useless for one of the purposes intended: for although it answered very well for a shade, yet it had become so much cracked and opened with the sun, as to render our situation particularly uncomfortable in wet weather. To repair it we could not obtain the necessary materials. I therefore purchased a tolerably large tent from one of the traders, and after it was well washed and scoured, had it fitted up under the roof in such a manner, that during fine wea- ther it was extended along the roof overhead, and when it rained we had only to unloose it, and stretch it to its proper place. Having waited the greatest part of the day, our pilot arrived about five o’clock in the evening, and was ready to start at five minutes notice; but as 108 the boat was not yet in order to receive us, I de- ferred moving until morning. One of our hands had been unwell for two days previous, and find- ing himself rather worse, desired to remain with an acquaintance that he had found in the village. He accordingly was paid off and permitted to re- main; nor did we experience any difficulty in procuring a substitute. I believe I have hitherto neglected to inform you of the wages of the Mis- sissippi sailors. At St. Genevieve, which I believe is as cheap a place as any, you must give twenty- five dollars a month; but at this place I had to give forty for a common hand, and sixty to the pat- troon. This is apparently very high wages; yet, when you reflect that most of them have to return overland through the wilderness, or engage at very low wages in some boat ascending the stream, it will not appear so unreasonable. We found several of the Delaware, Shawanese, and Cherokee Indians at this place, who furnish the traders with small quantities of beaver-skins, and other furs. Several of them were at this time intoxicated, and reeling about the banks of the river. The sight of our Chickasaw soon drew some of them to the boat, where they became very noisy and troublesome; and I saw plainly, from the conduct of the Chickasaw, that he was ashamed of his visitors; yet the poor fellow could not get rid of them, until I gave him a bottle of whiskey, with a wink to take them ashore. 109 The next morning, as soon as it was light, having every thing in good order, we set off once more under the guidance of an excellent pilot. Having descended twenty-seven miles be- low Little Prairie, and passed a number of low islands, we came to the mouth of the Bayou River. which empties in from the Tennessee shore, being forty or fifty yards wide, and navigable for some considerable distance. Forty-four miles below this river, you pass an island, which, from the number of boats loaded with flower that have been wrecked upon it, has acquired the name of the Flower Island. The great danger here seems to be from the current setting over very strongly in a bend in the island, which is so thickly beset with planters and sawyers as to endanger the safety of every boat that is forced in among them. This is the fifty-sixth island we have already pass- ed below the Missouri, some of which are five or six miles in length; but as they are all low, and subject to inundations, they have never been settled. - Two miles below Flower Island, you pass the Upper Chickasaw Bluffs, which lie in lat. 35. 36. N. long. 89. 37. W. and extend about one mile along the river. Eleven miles further, you arrive at the Second Chickasaw Bluffs, which are of the same extent as the former. Sixteen miles below these there is a very difficult and dangerous pas- sage called the Devil's Race Ground. The rapi. ilo dity of the current, together with the obstruction of planters and sawyers, render this passage so dangerous as in some measure to justify the name given it by the Kentuckians. However, when there is no wind to set you to leeward, by prudent management it may be passed in safety. Ten miles below this pass, you perceive the Third Chickasaw Bluffs, extending nearly a mile along the river. These Bluffs, as well as the iron and chalk banks already mentioned, all lie on the left side of the river, and are high, yet narrow commanding ridges, apparently of an excellent soil, but entirely uninhabited. They end abruptly on the river. They are all handsome, level tracts, - when viewed from the summit, expanding as they advance back into the country; but from the op- posite side of the river no trace of them is to be discovered. These elevations or bluffs are all si- tuated in the State of Tennessee; they are excel- lent sites for towns, and no doubt will be rapidly improved, when once the Indian title is extin- guished. About six miles below the Third Bluffs, the river begins to turn to the left, and continues so to do, until it has formed one of the greatest bends we have yet met with. Twenty-six miles below the bend we passed a small stream which falls into the Mississippi from the left bank: this is called Wolf River, and is not navigable. One mile below this river you pass Fort Pickering, 3 in where a small garrison is still kept, and there are in its vicinity about twelve houses, which give it the appearance of a little town. The opposite side of the river has likewise eight or ten scattered settlements. The banks are only of the ordinary height, while the opposite ones tower sixty feet above the greatest rise of the river. These bluffs lie in lat. 35. 1. N. long. 89. 54. W. This situation is better known by the name of the Fourth Chickasaw Bluffs, and used to be oc- cupied by a Spanish garrison. About two miles below Fort Pickering you pass Fort Pike, at the lower end of the Bluff. We landed our Chicka- saw Indian at this place, who during the whole of his passage behaved with a great deal of propriety, never even asking for anything to eat or drink, but accepting readily whatever was offered to him. The Mississippi frequently rises to a height of forty feet; and where the banks are of any extraor- dinary elevation, the difficulty of ascending their slippery sides, particularly when the water is low, is proportionably great; and this is the case with all the bluffs, or head lands, we have yet passed. These Bluffs occupy a front of about ten miles on the river, and is another of the few situations found on the Mississipi, on which anything like a large and permanent town may be built as there is no danger of its being washed away like the other parts of the bank. The dista 112 place from the Missouri is four hundred and twenty-seven miles, and from Little Prairie one hundred and forty; in which latter distance you do not meet with any settlements. Some small crops of cotton, exclusive of their necessary pro- visions, are the only articles raised in this country. The soil is of an excellent quality; and although their cotton is far from being of the best, yet it is evidently superior to that of New Madrid. º Yours, º 113 LETTER xxvii. Natchez, Mississippi Territory, - April 6, 1808, Dear Friend, - | SHORTLY after leaving the Chickasaw Bluffs, you pass the boundary line between the States of Tennessee and Georgia, or, as it is now called, the Mississippi Territory. You likewise pass an island about four miles in length, the head of which lies in the middle of the river, whence it is said a chain of rocks may be seen, when the was ter is low, extending quite to the left shore, which probably is the remaining foundation of a conti- nuation of the Bluffs. About twenty miles below the Fort, we over- took a part of the fleet of Kentuckians, with whom we had made a harbour some distance above New Madrid. These had passed us while we were de- layed at Little Prairie in obtaining a pilot; but in tonsequence of the superior skill of our pilot in * OL's II, P 114 taking advantage of all the short cuts through the islands, we had now retrieved our lost time. We had floated in company for about twelve miles, when we discovered two boats ahead, apparently in distress; nor was it long before we were satis. fied that our conjectures were true, as we could plainly distinguish persons walking around them. Shortly after we perceived their small boat making towards us, and upon their coming up they in- formed us, that three days before they had been carried on a sand-bar at the head of an island; that the water had already fallen so far as to leave their boats almost on dry ground; and that, finding themselves unable to launch them, they had un- loaded, and cut a number of rollers in order to be ready whenever they could procure assistance. As my boat was the first that was boarded, I could not think of denying them our aid, and therefore requested the pilot to land, in order that as many as were willing might go to assist them. They likewise met with a ready acquiescence from all the other boats, and in a short time we all landed on the left shore. Our fleet now consisted of eight sail, or rather floats, most of them carrying a large and small canoe, in which the respective crews crossed over, to the number of one hundred and - twenty persons. - - Previous to this I had had a few slight attacks of an intermittent fever; and as I was then under | 15 a regimen, I did not feel well enough to un- dergo any violent exertions. I therefore con- cluded to remain behind and embrace the op- portunity of a few hours of undisturbed quiet to take up my pen. I had been about two hours en- gaged thus when I was suddenly roused by a “ halloa,” and looking round, found three more boats just abreast of me descending the river. I acquainted them with the cause of our delay, which they no sooner heard, than they mechanically pulled in for the shore, without waiting for any orders from the master; and after securing their boats they sent off three canoes, with nine additional hands, to assist the others. Although I felt a little displeased at first for being disturbed, yet their innate good-will, in being ready to render assistance unasked, made me ample amends; and when they informed me they were all from Kentucky, I was confirmed in the good opinion I had formed, that the Kentucky sailors in general, although a rough, yet are a more amiable class of citizens, than they have been re- presented to be. About three o’clock in the afternoon, the hands who went off atten in the morning returned, after having launched the boats, which they effected with great difficulty, notwithstanding their numbers. The owners were then busy in reloading their car. goes. They appeared to be perfect strangers to the navigation of the river, not having a single 116 soul on board who had ever descended the Ohio before. They requested that we would wait for them at Council Island, which was about ten miles distant, and as far as we could go that after- noon, in order that they might have the advantage of our company for their better guidance. After promising to comply with their request, we got under way, and by sunset arrived at the before- mentioned island, which is about four miles long, but has nothing to recommend it, except, as is said, having formerly been the council seat of the con- ferences between the Choctaw and Chickasaw tribes of Indians. Some short time after dark we heard the heavy sounding strokes of oars, by which we discovered that the other boats were coming; who, it seems, rather than lose our company, ran ano- ther risk of being wrecked in proceeding after dark. However, we at last had the satisfaction of seeing them safely moored among the rest of the fleet, - - - From Council Island you descend thirty-two miles without meeting with any thing worthy of notice. You then pass the river St. Francis, which empties in from the right bank. It is two hun- dred yards wide at its month, and is said to be na- vigable for upwards of two hundred miles. Some of the head branches of this river approach very near to the Mines of St. Genevieve. We saw two loaded boats lying at the mouth, apparently - intending to ascend the river, but we were too far 117 - distant to have any communication with them. It lies in lat. 34. 44. N. long. 90. 29. W. Five miles below the St. Francis, you pass a few small scattered improvements, made upon a natural prairie; where, finding the land ready clear- ed, a few settlers, without any title or claim, have taken possession. Most of these people have come here since the cession of this country to the United States, expecting, as has heretofore been the case, to receive some encouragement from the govern- ment. I trust they will not be disappointed; and that our national legislature will be generous enough to these poor objects to grant them what their dangerous and exposed situation surely has entitled them to receive ; either a free gift or a pre-emption right to their hard and well-earned improvements. --- I took the small skiff, and landed at this settle- ment. My stay, however, was so short, that I only had an opportunity of picking up a few sam- ples of cotton, which the women were spinning. I did not think it equal to the last I had seen at the Bluffs. In answer to my inquiry as to the dis- tance of the swamps in their rear, they informed me it was no more than three quarters of a mile. Although I spent but ten minutes on shore, yet it was nearly an hour before I could overtake the boat; during which time I passed two canoes with four Indians. As neither of them seemed to understand me, I did not learn to what tribe they 118 belonged, but from their thick flat heads, our pat: troon pronounced them Choctaws. "I saw a cat- fish in one of their canoes as I passed them, which I supposed must have weighed sixty or seventy pounds. - During the remainder of the day we met with nothing worthy of notice, till towards sunset, when we were crossed by innumerable flocks of pigeons, which passed so near us that we were able to dis- tinguish their eyes. We had fine sport for about an hour; but although well provided with pigeon- shot, we could not kill more than one or two at a time. Every one thought the guns were spelled or bewitched, as each of us had frequently shot five and six ducks at a time, and I had even brought down fourteen pigeons from a tree at a single shot. I attributed it to the nearness of the object, which prevented the shot from being sufficiently scat- tered; and in order to convince them, I took a pair of pistols, and put thirty or forty shot over the ball, with which I brought down two at the first shot; but after charging it with an ordinary load, it was easy to kill from three to seven at every fire. On the same evening, after we had encamped on the Mississippi Territory side, we discovered a large French barge, the crew of which had light- ed up fires directly opposite to us, and appeared to have come from New Orleans. Several of our 4. - 119 hands wished to go to her, expecting to meet with some of their acquaintance. I accordingly took two in the small skiff, and crossed over. We found they were forty-eight days from New- - Orleans, bound to St. Louis, and loaded with West-India goods. They informed us, that it was very healthy at New-Orleans; that before this time war had been declared against England, as it was expected every day before they sailed; and that the Balize was blockaded by two English frigates, who took every thing going out or coming in. This news did not at all accord with my wishes at the moment; for although I had no objection to contribute my mite, either by land or water, “whene'er my country’s good required it,” yet I must confess I really wished the report should prove unfounded; for if true it would leave me the choice of two alternatives; either to pass the Balize at the risk of being taken and sent to Ja- maica, when I wished to be at New York; or, what was almost as dreadful, to ride on horseback a distance of nearly seventeen hundred miles, and the greater part through a dreary wilderness. The latter part of the objection has but little weight with me now, as I have become naturalized to every inconvenience of that kind; but the idea of such a journey by land makes me indeed shudder, - for you know I have always had a natural anti- - pathy to any thing longer than a twelve hour's connection with a saddle. 120 Having collected all the information we could, together with three quarters of an old newspaper, we took our leave, not forgetting a few compli- ments to our friends astern. After getting on board our vessel, I found supper just ready, but was too impatient to look over my piece of newspaper to partake of it at that moment; and I felt a consi- derable elevation of spirits on reading the follow- ing article under the head of marine intelligence: “The brig Traveller, from New-York, and the schooner Two Brothers, from Philadelphia, both entered the Balize on Wednesday afternoon. The report of a blockade by an English frigate, is en- tirely without foundation.” - About twenty miles below this encampment, sour pilot, who was a Frenchman, and did not seem to relish so large a company as our fleet consisted of purposely worked his vessel in with the right shore, while the remainder kept the mid-channel. The consequence of this manoeuvre was, that, while they were carried by the current around the long turns of four islands a distance of ten miles, we slipped into a narrow channel about three miles through, whereby we gained an advance of seven miles. We next drifted twenty-six miles without meeting with any thing worthy of observation until we discovered a Bayou or outlet of the Mis- sissippi on the left shore, through which the water rushed from the river with considerable rapidity. We were sufficiently far to be out of the reach of - º 121 its Vortex; yet some large trees that floated be. tween us and the shore, were drawn into that channel. These Bayous are places where the river has broken through the main banks, (which are al- ways highest on the edge, and descending thence into the back swamps,) and when high, rushes out with great violence, continuing so to do until the river has subsided below the bed of the new-made channel. Our pilot pointed out a stream about half a mile lower on the opposite side; but as it had no name, and was besides so small that I could hardly perceive it, it is not worth mentioning. About half a mile below this stream, we disco- wered a singular piece of low ground, which was covered with a late growth of the willow and cot ton tree, while on each side it was surrounded by the large growth of the adjacent country. Upon inquiry we learned, that this had been the former bed of the river; but from some change in the current an eddy was formed at this spot, which soon collected large quantities of driftwood, and at length effectually dammed out the water, while the river opened another channel to the right. - - - Six miles below the old channel, you perceive White River coming in from the right. This stream is about one hundred and fifty yards wide at its mouth, and navigable for upwards of one ºf Oºs II. Q. º º 122 º hundred miles. Four or five miles up this river there is said to be a natural navigable canal, which communicates with the Arkansas, and falls into that river about twenty-two miles above its mouth. Those navigators who are bound to the Osark village, a settlement of French and Indians, about fifty miles from the Mississippi, generally take this route, as being much nearer than to ascend the Arkansas. º Twenty-two miles below White River, you ar- rive at the Arkansas, a large stream rising in the Province of Mexico, navigable for three or four hundred miles, and discharging itself from the right side of the Mississippi. The country through which it flows is described as being one of the most pleasant and fruitful to the westward of the Mississippi; and one of its branches is said almost to interlock with a branch of the Osage River, which discharges itself into the Missouri. The mouth of this river lies in lat. 34. 1. N. long. 91. 4. W. º - The Osank or Arkansas Indians inhabit the banks of this and White River; but as there were - no settlements near the mouth, we lost no time by landing. Between the two, however, we were boarded by several canoes belonging to this tribe. These Indians were entirely naked, except a small breech cloth as wide as your hand, and appeared much more regular and delicately formed than any of the tribes I had hitherto seen. They never - - offered to come on board until requested; nor did they then wait for a second invitation; for no sooner did one jump on board than all the rest immediately followed. I was very attentive to the motions of a fine boy about six or seven years of age, who with his knife was dressing a bow and arrows, when, by some sudden motion of the ca- noe he dropped his knife in the river, and at the same moment was in after it. To my surprise he made out to recover it before it probably had descended two fathoms. As these people always expect to be treated when asked into a boat, I did not forget that ceremony, and after giving them a dram of whiskey, they departed well pleased. The Arkansas River, which is six hundred and four miles from the Missouri, is remarkable for being the first place, where, I think, Ferdinand de Soto, after travelling through the wilds of the Floridas, came upon the Mississippi, nearly three hundred years ago. It likewise seems to be a dividing line between the upper and lower climates; as the alligator is seldom seen higher up than this river, and at no time nu- merous. The Arkansas is also remarkable for being a kind of boundary line to the growth of the cypress; for although above this you occa- sionally meet with it, yet below, it soon be-, comes the principal tree of the forests. It may further be noted for another distinction: we sel- - 124 dom missed a day on which we did not shoot one or two wild turkeys above, but after passing be. low, I do not recollect ever hearing or seeing any. There is a characteristic of this river still to be mentioned. The foliage and drapery of the trees on its shores begin to present a new and interest- ing appearance, being curiously ornamented and festooned with a grayish vegetable moss, which attaches itself to them, and covers their branches in large and long clusters, strongly resembling bunches of horse-hair. This adheres very lightly together, and, containing its vegetative principle in every part alike, is scattered by the winds in fragments from tree to tree, where it again vege. tates, and is again dispersed, as before. This singu- lar and equally useful flying vegetable, is known in this country by the name of the Spanish beard, and when prepared and cured makes cheap mattresses, equally pleasant and elastic with those made from horse-hair. I am told it is already in considerable use for that purpose both at Natchez and New- Orleans. - From the Arkansas you descend about twenty- five miles without meeting with any thing parti- cularly worthy of notice, except another small stream on the right hand side, for which I could not learn any name. You then descend twenty- five miles more, when you pass a small outlet on º the same side, where we were under the necessity 125 of landing on account of the wind, which was very high. After it became dark, and we had lighted up our fires, we heard the heavy sounding strokes of oars, and shortly after were hailed by some boats, to know whether they might land in Safety. We informed them of the outlet below us, but they, either not understanding us, or being fearful of greater dangers, pulled in for the shore, and were drawn into the outlet, which they descended thirty or forty yards before they could secure a fast to the shore. We found they were three boats in company, from Pittsburgh, loaded with flower, whiskey, and pork. The next morning we were detained five hours in assisting to extricate them from their difficulties, in which we succeeded, as the outlet was one of the smallest, with no great draught of water through it. From the outlet it is fifty-eight miles to a place called the Grand Lake, a name given to part of an old bed of the river, which evidently flowed through this lake in ano- ther channel, as may be seen by the difference in the growth of the trees around its margin. There are many instances of this kind to be met with along the Mississippi, and in one or two places you may distinguish small tracts of land, with tall and aged trees, that have formerly been islands, but are now surrounded with a younger growth of willow and cotton trees. Eighteen miles below Grand Lake you enter a part of the river, where there is a singular prospect, as at this place you have 126 a view of the river for ten or twelve miles ahead, whereas before this the sudden bends of the river have always confined your vision to a distance of four or five miles only. º About twenty-two miles below this Long Reach, as it is called, we spoke two barges loaded with West-India goods. They were thirty-one days from New-Orleans, and bound, the one to Louis- ville, and the other to Cincinnati, on the Ohio. They confirmed the report of the probability of immediate rupture with Great-Britain, but that no English men of war had been seen off the Ba- lize. They likewise informed us they had passed on that day twenty-three Kentucky and New- Orleans boats, some of whom were but a few miles ahead. The next day we drifted thirty miles with- out passing anything worth notice, until evening, when we fell in company with five Kentuckymen loaded with horses and tobacco. They were all encamped for the night; but as our pilot did not approve of the situation, we dropped down a mile or two below them, to a place called Wolf Island. About eighteen miles from Wolf Island, on the left side of the river, you perceive another old channel of the Mississippi, which may be traced to where it apparently had crossed the bed of the Yazoo River, being the site of the ancient junction of the two rivers. Seven miles below the old channel you arrive at the mouth of the famous Yazoo, a large stream about one hundred and sixty * * 4. 127 yards wide at its mouth, and navigable for one hundred and thirty miles. It rises in the Missis- sippi Territory, (formerly the State of Georgia,) between the Mississippi and Tombigbee rivers, and its borders are chiefly inhabited by the Chicka- saw and Choctaw tribes of Indians. This river passes through large and extensive tracts of valu- able land, the illegal sales of which have given rise to the famous “Yazoo Claims,” which have here- tofore excited so much of the public attention throughout the United States. The mouth of this river lies in lat. 32. 26. N. long, 90. 52. W. Immediately opposite the mouth of Yazoo Ri- ver, on each side of the Mississippi, are two very strong eddies, which it is necessary to avoid, as they will twist and whirl a boat around like a top. Although it requires an infinite deal of trouble to work out of them, yet there is no other danger to be apprehended than that of delay. The eddy on the right hand side of the river is most to be avoided, as being of much larger extent than the other. - - Twelve miles below the Yazoo River, you ar. rive at the Walnut Hills, or Fort M'Henry, which is situated on an eminence. These hills are the finest situation for a town I have yet seen on the Mississippi. They are of an eligible height, the ascent easy, the soil luxuriant, and the climate the most temperate on the river, being situated in about at 32. 15. N. Were I inclined to settle on 128 the Mississippi, here would I fix my abode; for although I have not yet seen the whole, I should rest satisfied with this charming situation. It is a little surprising, however, that with all these ad- vantages the settlement contains no more than eight plantations. The planters appear to be in very easy circumstances. Their chief article of culture is cotton, which is of a far better quality than any I have seen on this river. The men generally had a sickly appearance, but the women and girls looked fresh and sprightly. From their own account, however, they considered the situa- tion as unhealthy. If this is the case, it is my opinion there cannot be a spot on the whole Mis- sissippi (below the mouth of the Ohio) fit for the residence of man. The fort, which was garrison- ed and kept in repair under the Spanish govern- ment, has, since the cession of the province to the United States, been entirely evacuated as useless. This eminence has taken its name from the quality of the timber which formerly covered its sides; and although it has a charming brook of clear transparent water which empties into the river, yet it is so brackish that no use can be made of it. Twenty-five miles below the Walnut Hills you pass a new settlement called Palmyra, situated on the left bank of the river, and although somewhat scattered, contains fifteen houses. The inhabitants confine themselves chiefly to raising cotton, which is of an excellent quality, and such provisions as . 129 are necessary for their own consumption. Twenty- seven miles below Palmyra is Big Black, or Little Yazoo River, a considerable stream, which enters in from the left side, and rises between the Yazoo and Tombigbee Rivers, but is navigable only when the waters are high. One mile below the mouth of this river you pass through the Grand Gulf, which is nothing more than two considera. ble eddies on each side of the river, occasioned by its taking a sudden turn to the right, in conse- quence of the resistance of a high rocky shore against the current. These eddies are strong and troublesome on both sides of the river, but that on the left is the largest, and requires some care to keep out of it. If, however, you should happen to be drawn in, you have nothing more to dread than the loss of a few hours time before you can extri- cate yourself. I had heard some dreadful accounts respecting the passage of this gulf, but as our pilot assured me, so I found them all false. I took the small skiff, and crossed the eddies in every di- rection, yet incurred no other danger than may be met with in any mill-pond. Ten miles below the Grand Gulf is Bayou Pierre, a small navi- gable stream which puts in from the left side, and where you perceive some considerable im- provements. Ten miles lower you pass the Petit Gulf; a place not unlike to the Grand Gulf, and caused by a similar resistance of certain high hills ºf QI. II, R. 130 upon the course of the current, which is here sudº denly forced to the right. Here you find two other eddies, which, although not so large as the last, yet are equally troublesome. - Twenty-three miles below this last gulf, you pass Coles Creek, another small boatable stream, which comes in from the left shore. After leaving the Grand Gulf, the face of the country begins to improve very rapidly. The immense tracts of wilderness on each side of the river which tire and fatigue the eye, are here interspersed with a number of plantations; and during the last thirty miles we had constantly some improvements in sight. From Coles Creek you descend ten miles to another small stream, the name of which I have forgotten; from whence twenty-four miles more will bring you to the city of Natchez, at a dis. tance of nine hundred and forty-four miles from the mouth of the Missouri; during which you pass one hundred and thirty-seven uninhabited islands. - - I have frequently heard it remarked by ſo- reigners, that the woods of the United States were unlike to those of the rest of the world, inasmuch as they never offered the cheering voice of the feathered songster, so common in other countries. I cannot say how far the assertion is correct, *S it. respects the comparison with the rest of the world, but I always found amusement from the notes of the little warblers, during my travels throughout 131 my own country, from Maine to Georgia on the sea coast, and from Lake Champlain to the Mis- sissippi in the interior. I must, however, con- fess, that the borders of the Mississippi in this respect exceed all other parts of our country. About half an hour after day-light the wakeful martin (who winters in this country,) gives timely notice of the rising sun; and at the moment the gilded foliage of the lofty trees acknowledges his appearance, the whole feathered creation, as if with one accord, pour forth their gratitude in one ge- neral hymn. The woods on both sides of the ri- ver, ever since we passed the Arkansas, appeared to be literally alive with its numerous feathered inhabitants; and although we generally kept the middle of the river, which is one mile in breadth, yet we could hear the general chorus much better than on shore, I do not recollect ever to have heard any thing to equal this charming natural Concert. Yours, LETTER XXVIII. º Baton Rouge, West Florida, April 13, 1808. Dear Friend, - ALTHOUGH I intended to call at this place * en passant,” as being the first fortified Spanish post I had met with on my travels, yet my anxiety to return to New-York would hardly have allowed me time to forward this letter, had not the wea- ther, which detained ushere for twenty-four hours, given mean opportunity to remember my promise to you. -- My last contained a detail of my voyage down to the city of Natchez, of which place no doubt you will expect a particular description. The city of Natchez, which has been erected a port of entry, lies in lat. 31. 32. N. long. 91. 15. W. and is situated on a most beautiful eminence on the left bank of the Mississippi. Im- mediately adjoining the river there is a lower bank, which appears to be upon the same level with the 183 opposite shore; the whole extent of which, for nearly a mile, is lined with boats, intended either for this market or that of New Orleans. - From the best information I could obtain, this city contains nearly three hundred houses, and about three thousand inhabitants, including all co- lours. There are several extensive mercantile houses established here, and one at least which im- ports goods directly from England. There are two printing-offices, and consequently two news. papers, which are published weekly. The build- ings in general are neat, yet I found none within the town that can be considered as elegant. The principal hotels are upon a genteel establishment, yet not in a style corresponding to the general cha. racter of the place for luxury: but to a Mississippi sailor, who like an alligator may be said to have lived in mud while upon the river, they afford no trifling luxury. - - The streets of Natchez are not paved, nor have they even the convenience of a paved side walk; consequently in wet weather it must be disa- greeable walking. As the city, however, is situ- ated on the summit of the hills, (which have a striking resemblance to the Walnut Hills already described) the water from rains passes off very readily, and a bright sun in a few hours absorbs the remaining moisture. My stay at Natchez was but two days and two mights: of course you will not expect me to say 134 - anything respecting the manners of its inhabitants, as the result of my own observations. Yet as this was always one of the principal items in my cata- logue of inquiries, you may be sure I did not ne: glect it on this occasion. “ The ladies in general are extremely delicate, which never fails to please, and excite the warmest sensations in the beholder. They are fond of dancing and all the other gay amusements, and though chaste as the virgin queen before the Gordian knot is tied, yet induſ- gent as the Cyprian goddess for ever after.” Al- though this character, (given me by a married gentleman of the town,) may be applicable to a few, yet I entertain too exalted an opinion of the sex to make it general. The gentlemen pass their time in the pursuit of three things: all make love; most of them play; and a few make money. With Religion they have nothing to do; having formed a treaty with her, the principal article of which is, “Trouble not us, nor will we trouble you.” From the eminence on which the city stands, which is about one hundred feet above the pre- sent level of the river, you have a very pleasing prospect of the river both above and below; but in front your vision is lost in tracing the immense forests which cover the low grounds, extending in one uniform horizontal line before you. One evening, as I was enjoying the cool refreshing breeze from this charming situation, I was agree 4. #35 - ably surprised with the sight of a fleet of eleven Kentucky boats, which just came in sight, and were making for the landing. This is situated in a bend of the river, where the projecting point above causes a very extensive eddy along the shore below, and makes it very convenient for a landing-place. The current of the river is so strong, that the boatmen always make a proper allowance for the drift of the vessel while making in for the shore. But here the eddy setting up with nearly equal velocity, carried the most of them far above the town, where they had to take the channel once more, before they could effect a landing at the Levee. The next thing that afforded us amusement, was a long raft of boards and shin- gles, which was intended for this place. The owners expected its arrival, and were on the Le- vee to see it landed in safety, but it was soon dis- covered that it would not be able to reach even the eddy. They accordingly mustered all the ropes and boats which could be readily collected, and while those on the raft sent their boats and ropes ashore, these went off with theirs; but the power of the raft was so great, and the current so strong, that the ropes all snapped like threads; nor were they able to make a landing before they had drifted five miles below the city. I had the curiosity the next morning to count the number of boats then lying along the Levee, and found they amounted to eighty-three, all 136 loaded with the produce of the upper country as far as the 42d degree of north latitude. When I went on board of my own boat, (which was very early, and before the sun had risen) I discovered that my visit was as unwelcome as it was unex. pected. I was so tinfortunate as to disturb the morning slumbers of exactly one quarter of a dozen of the copper-coloured votaries of the Cy- prian queen, who it seems had undertaken to en- liven the idle hours of our Canadian crew. The ladies really seemed ashamed ; but whether from a conviction of their being the intruders, or con- sidering me as such, I am unable to say. Suffice it, I took my leave until they had time to de- Camp. - Although gambling is permitted in its fullest latitude up on the hill, yet it seems they have a law or ordinance which prohibits the least shadow of any thing that looks like it below. I had an opportunity of seeing this republican regulation put in force against a Monongahela boatman, who having had some trifling dispute with a spy of one of the ministerial officers of the tribunal, offered to leave the event to the turn of a dollar. This the other objected to ; but offered to pitch a dol- lar at a point, which was agreed to by the first The boatman lost his wager fairly; but what was his surprise when he afterwards found himself ar- rested upon the information of this very villain, 137 and fined either twenty-five or fifty dollars for gambling / - - - The river is about one mile broad at this place, and one hundred feet deep. From the brow of the hills before mentioned, you discover small fleets arriving daily, which keep up the hurry and bustle on the flats or Levee below ; while at the same time you see detachments continually drop- ping off for New Orleans, and the slaves breaking up the hulks of those that have discharged their cargoes, in order to make room for the new COmerS. Sea vessels sometimes come up to this city against the stream, although it is three hundred miles above New Orleans; but it is very seldom that they attempt it, as the sudden and frequent turns of the river render the fairest wind of very little use for any length of time, as that which is fair for one turn will probably be directly ahead at the next. Besides, the time lost in warping up the river, and around the bends, is sufficient in ordinary cases for a voyage to Europe and back again. In descending the river afterwards, we met a brig at the Fausse Rivière, one hundred and sixty-five miles above New Orleans, which was then forty-two days from that city. This vessel had part of her cargo of slaves on board, and was bound to Natchez; and though she had the ad. vantage of extraordinary assistance from her slaves, vol. II. - S 138 she had performed only one half of her voyage. I have no doubt that her whole voyage from city to city took up more than eighty days. The transportation of produce is chiefly done by the Kentucky and New-Orleans boats, which after having disposed of their cargoes, are pur- chased for a mere trifle, and reloaded with cot- ton. They have also a kind of barge, one hun- dred feet in length, and somewhat wider and deeper than those I have before noticed. These are decked for the purpose of preserving the mer. chandise which they bring up the river from being injured by the weather. They likewise carry a large square sail, with a standing mast, and are steered by a rudder. These boats ply constantly between the two cities, and as they are well manned, row constantly while descending. When ascending they depend chiefly on a very long tow line, which extends from the mast head to the shore, where eight or ten men drag her up against the stream. They generally descend this distance in one week, but it requires 1710ſé than tWO to return. - - The principal article of culture in this country at present is cotton, of which they already raise immense quantities, of a quality almost equal to any in the world. They formerly raised large crops of indigo; but in consequence of the low price of that article some years back, and its de- structive effects on the health of the slaves, they 139 have generally fallen into the more profitable cul- ture of cotton. This is planted about the middle or latter end of February. Their corn is planted between the first of March and the first of July. They likewise raise tobacco, rice, Indian corn, hemp, and flax; but these articles are now brought down the river in such quantities from Kentucky and the upper country, that they can purchase them much cheaper than they can raise them, and prefer turning their labour to more profitable CropS. - Improved land round about Natchez, even con- sidering its superior quality, is extravagantly high, bearing on an average the price of twenty dollars an acre, exclusive of the value of the mansion- house and improvements, which must be paid for, at a rate of twenty-five per cent, less than the real value. It is a very common thing for a planter to have a hundred slaves, and some have as many as three hundred. The profits of an able-bodied slave may be safely calculated at one hundred dollars a year, some say two hundred, exclusive of his maintenance. The price of prime slaves is five hundred dollars each; and those possessed of any extraordinary qualifications will command from six to nine hundred dollars. They have peaches, figs, and plums in great perfection; but their apple-trees produce very little, and that not eatable. Sour oranges are common. The markets are supplied with excel- 140 lent beef, mutton, pork and poultry, of their own raising. The cows look well, but the milk is thin and watery. Although the sheep answer very well for the table, yet I am credibly informed, that they do not promise much for the loom, as those of the best fleece have been found to degenerate so fast, as in a few years to afford only a scanty supply of very indifferent wool. The hogs are small, but prolific. I have heard of some planters who have from three to six hundred head of horn. ed cattle. Immediately opposite to Natchez is a small set- tlement named Concord, consisting of a few scat- tered families, who raise some cotton, together with a few necessaries of life. The bank on which it is situated is subject to be overflowed by the annual inundations of the river, which is the case with the whole western bank, from the mouth of the Ohio to this place. Natchez is generally al- lowed to be subject to those periodical ſevers so common upon this river; yet from its height and situation it might be considered as one of those few exceptions which are exempt from the ge. neral evil. - - There is a gang of idle Choctaw, Natchez, and Muskogee Indians, who stroll about the city, or rather are settled down on the Levee, which being the landing place of the cargoes of whiskey and provisions that continually arrive, has attracted them to that spot. They are about forty in nume 141 ber, of both sexes, and of every age. They are provided with a full band of music, with which they serenade the different boats as they arrive morning and evening, or as often as they want a little money, whiskey, or provisions. You would no doubt have been surprised, if you had inspect- ed the band, with their instruments, before the be- ginning of the performance; but you would have been satisfied, after hearing the music, that a given quantity of discord may produce harmony. I must certainly do them the justice to say, that I never was more agreeably disappointed in my life, and the harmony produced by such an unpromising collection of instruments and performers, exceeded all my expectations. - As I was very particular in examining the in- struments used on this occasion, I must not omit giving you a description of them. The first and largest was a joint of thick cane, open at both ends, which, when applied to the mouth, and sung or blown through with a strong voice, served aS a bass to the whole. The next was also a joint of cane with both ends closed, containing a few small pebbles: this was used by shaking it to the time and motion of the piece. The third was two separate joints of cane, each of which were cracked in several places, and used by suspending the one between the fingers of the left hand, and striking the other upon it with the right; pro- ducing a kind of rattling jarring sound. The 142 fourth was likewise a joint of cane open at one end, having a small slip of cane inserted directly across the aperture. This was held in a perpen- dicular direction, when by contracting the lips, and blowing or singing through the aperture upon the slip, it produced a hollow hissing sound. The fifth was another joint of cane closed at both ends, with a narrow strip out from end to end, over which was extended a strong deer sinew; which being set in vibration by the thumb, produced a dull monotonous sound, something like the lowest string of the African jumbo. The sixth and last instrument was a two gallon tin kettle, with a drest buckskin extended over the mouth, not un- like a drum, which it was intended to represent, This was carried under one arm, and beat with a stick held in the hand, producing a dull sound like a drum. The first five instruments were of various sizes, according to the age of the persons using them, those of the children being always the smallest. Their manner of performance was as follows: Having first formed their company under a tree a small distance from the boats, they advance sing- ing short stanzas of “ho ha.” When near the boats, the captain or leader advances before with a white or striped silk banner, taking long and solemn strides, and then halting a moment for the rest to come up. After reaching the boat he stands as still as a post, not moving his eyes, or any of 4 his limbs. The men approach next, and form a circle round him : then follow the boys; after them the squaws with the girls in the rear. The music now becomes slow and solemn for about five minutes, when it gradually increases to a brisker motion, during which you will first per- ceive the captain move his eyes, next his lips, then his head and hands, and at last a very curious and pleasing pantomimical dance strikes up, which continues for about a quarter of an hour. The music is performed in two parts, being tenor and treble: the men and boys composing the former, and the women and girls the latter. The several instruments were used with such accurate time and motion, and so blended with the vocal music, that it rendered the performance far superior to any thing I had anticipated. The burthen of the song was the same throughout, consisting of a single stanza, and, as near as I can remember as follows: * Ho, hoa, ho; ho, al, hoa; hoa, ho ho; ho hoa, ho.” - In traversing the city, I had noticed leopard skins hanging at the doors of several stores, which I concluded had been brought from the Atlantic ports, to be used in making military housings, as I knew that animal was not an inhabitant of our continent. I happened to mention this circum- stance to a number of gentlemen at the hotel one evening, when I was informed they were the skins of animals killed in that country. One of the gen. 144 tlemen told me that he had the skin of one at his house which had been killed the week before, within twenty miles of that city. He invited me to examine it, which I did the next morning, and found that it measured five feet three inches in length, and four feet in breadth. I thought it as beautiful a spotted tiger or leopard skin as I had ever seen. The only remarkable difference that I could recollect was, those I had seen from Africa generally had a darker stripe along the back from the head to the tail; in other respects they appear- ed to me as skins of the same kind of animal. They are called the spotted tiger in this country, and although not numerous, yet of late years they are frequently met with. Wild horses are likewise sometimes seen on the west side of the river. It requires great dexterity to take them, but when once broken they become very useful animals. The sugar-cane is sometimes planted as high up as the Natchez, but only in small patches for curiosity or medicinal purposes, as the frosts are too severe to insure a crop; but from Point Coupee, one hundred and forty miles below, the cane becomes the staple quite down to New Orleans. Natchez Heights is the tenth bluff or ridge of the highlands which you pass on that side of the river, and is about one hundred and thirty miles in length, and twenty-five in breadth, and the soil of a most excellent quality. This country likewise exhibits signs of having formerly - 145 cherished a population far exceeding any thing which has been known in our time. A considerable variety of ancient mounds are found here, some of which are round, others oval, but most of them square, with a small platform on the top. Some of these have been opened, and a single skeleton discovered near the top. Several very curious spe- cimens of their ancient earthenware have likewise been discovered, with singular figures and charac- ters well traced upon them. The evening preceding that of my departure from Natchez being beautiful and bright, I walked down to the Levee, in order to give some direc- tions to my boatmen. In passing two boats next to mine, I heard some very warm words; which my men informed me proceeded from some drunken sailors, who had a dispute respecting a Choctaw lady. Although I might fill half a dozen pages with the curious slang made use of on this occasion, yet I prefer selecting a few of the most brilliant expressions by way of sample. One said, “I am a man; I am a horse; I am a team. I can whip any man in all Kentucky, by G–d.” The other replied, “I am an alligator; half man, half. horse; can whip any on the Mississippi by G-d,” The first one again, “I am a man; have the best horse, best dog, best gun, and handsomest wife in all Kentucky, by G–d.” The other, “I am a Mississippi snapping turtle: have bear’s claws, VOI = II. q. - HAG alligator's teeth, and the devil's tail; can whip any man, by G–d.” This was too much for the first, and at it they went like two bulls, and continued for half an hour, when the alligator was fairly van- quished by the horse. - - I should have been glad to have spent a week or two longer at Natchez, in order to have an opportunity of making a few more observations. From the little I did observe, the inhabitants seem- ed to indulge themselves in all the ease and luxury of the east, but whether their proportion of happi- ness and contentment is equally great, I very much doubt; as it has always been a favourite maxim with me, and confirmed during my travels in the Southern States and West-Indies, that “happiness can never exist in the breast of that individual who lives by the misery and wretchedness of others.” - - As this letter has already exceeded the limits I at first intended, I must defer the account of my voyage from Natchez to this place till my next, which will probably be from New-Orleans. Yours, - C. S. LETTER xxix. º New-Orleans, April 20, 1808. Dear Friend, I HAVE at length arrived at that point from whence I calculate that twenty-five or thirty days may bring me once more within the circle of my friends and acquaintance. A vessel sails from this place to-morrow for New-York; and be- lieve me I find it very difficult to forego so fa- vourable an opportunity of taking an immediate passage home. Had I arrived two days sooner, I certainly should have sailed in her; but as I do not expect ever to return to New Orleans, I have conquered this ardent desire, and shall make my- self contented for eight or ten days to come, when I shall certainly embark in the first vessel that sails either for New-York, Philadelphia or Balti- ºn Ores - As my last was wholly confined to a description and account of Natchez, you will no doubt wish 148 to learn the remainder of my voyage from that city to this place. After leaving the city of Natchez, you descend nineteen miles, and pass a small stream called Ca- tharine's Creek, which enters the Mississippi from a bend on the left shore, where we encamped for the night. While the hands were kindling a fire to prepare our supper, I took the small skiff and my gun, and rowed about a quarter of a mile up the creek, where I was drawn by the bellowing of the alligators. I wished to kill one of these ani. mals, in order to have a fair opportunity of exa- mining it; for although we had seen numbers since we passed the Walnut Hills, yet none were sufficiently near for that purpose. Several times in this little distance I thought myself within twenty yards of my object, yet could not get sight of it, for as I approached, it disappeared and was silent. After I had ascended some distance, I suf- fered the boat to drift with the current, expecting, as I now made no commotion in the water, to have a better opportunity of getting a shot. The noise, I had perceived, generally recommenced below me as I rowed up. It was not long before I observed what I thought to be an alligator cross- ing a shallow swampy place near the edge of the creek. I fired and killed him on the spot. But guess my disappointment, when I found I had been pursuing the notes of bull-frogs, instead of the bel. lowings of alligators; and shot a frog which every 149 hand on board imagined to weigh four pounds. I had never seen a bull-frog which weighed more than half a pound; therefore was at least excusa- ble in my conjecture, that nothing smaller than an alligator could emit such horridly dreadful sounds. - - - One mile below Catharine's Creek, you pass the White Cliffs, another, but less elevated, of those narrow strips of highland which end ab- ruptly upon the left side of the river. This is come posed of a whitish clay, and at a distance has the appearance of the chalk banks above. Twenty- seven miles below the cliffs, you pass the mouth of Hona Chitto River, emptying in from the left shore. This stream is navigable for a considera- ble distance when the waters are high. It is about sixty yards wide at its mouth, and has a number of settlements near its head waters. Six miles lower, on the same side, you perceive another stream, which is called Buffaloe Creek, where we were obliged to land, in consequence of an acci- dent which I shall relate, as well as on account of the heavy swell in the river, occasioned by a strong head wind, which had blown during the greatest part of that day. The accident I allude to was the loss of a boat, which was at no greater distance from us than two hundred yards. We saw and had to pass the same danger; but as we kept an early look out, we plyed our oars in time to avoid it. We endeavoured to give them all the notice in 150 - our power, but in vain: they either did not observe it, or concluded we were joking; and the first notice they had of their misfortune was the crash of their boat against a heavy sawyer, which stove in the greatest part of her broadside, and threw her immediately into the trough of the sea, when being deep by leaded with lead and beaver, she filled and disappeared almost instantly. We had for some time been looking out for a place to land, but none had offered before we arrived at Buffaloe Creek. Here we no sooner had secured our boat, than we walked (it being impossible to go up with our small boat) to the place where we had observed two men belonging to the wreck, who had swam ashore; but the other two, being the remainder of the crew, unable to swim, were unfortunately drowned. These poor fellows lost every thing but the shirt and trowsers which they wore. I took them on board of our boat, and gave them such assistance as their unfortunate si- tuation required. While we were detained at this place, one of the boatmen strolled a little way into the swamp. It was not long before we heard the report of his rifle; and as we knew there was no prospect of game in such a situation, we immediately con cluded he had fired at an alligator. We found our conjectures were right, as he presently after appeared, and informed me he had shot one, which lay about three hundred yards in the swamp. We º 4. proceeded to the spot, and found he had killed one, which measured eleven feet two inches from the head to the tail, and two feet eight inches in cir- cumference round the thickest part of the body. The length of the head was one foot eight inches from the tip of the snout to the back of the neck. Its colours were bright and changeable in the sun, having nothing of that dull brownish shade so common in those you have seen preserved. I found this animal to be strongly impregnated with musk, the whole place being perfumed with that odour. I had it opened, and every part exa- mined, but found nothing which appeared to con- tain the effluvia; and am therefore of opinion that it is diffused through the whole system of the ani- mal. We found, among other undigested matter in the stomach, two bones, about nine inches in length and three in circumference, which appeared to belong to the hind legs of some land animal. We had before noticed some larger alligators than this, but I have not as yet seen any from eighteen to twenty feet in length, which travellers say are to be found in this river. When they swim near the surface of the water, they are looking out for prey on the shore. You may then perceive their two eyes, and the ridge of their back fin, which is very broad. Small ones of from four to six feet in length frequently approach within forty feet of the boats, but the water is so thick and turbid that nothing can be seen of them except their eyes and fins, as already mentioned. From Buffaloe Creek you descend about two miles, and arrive at Loftus Heights, lying in lat. 31. 5. N. long. 91. 22. W. a high commanding bluff, about one hundred and fifty feet above the present level of the river, and on which is situated the post of Fort Adams. This is the principal American garrison on the Mississippi, and the camp, which is about six miles inland from the fort, is said to contain fifteen hundred men. Loftus Heights is the twelfth elevated bluff you meet with on the left or eastern shore, and, like the others, ends abruptly on the river. It gives a serious check to the current, and by forcing it suddenly to the right, causes a considerable eddy on the left shore, just above the fort. This, like all the other eddies on the river, is only to be dreaded on account of the loss of time it occasions in extricating yourself when once drawn into its vortex. We had the pleasure of coasting it up and down for nearly two hours; but what was most provoking was to see five or six boats descending the river, while we were not only detained, but had to ascend the stream twice for the distance of nearly a mile, be- fore we could regain the true current. Five miles below Fort Adams you pass the line ºf demarcation between the United States and the Spanish province of West Florida, as settled see veral years since by the two powers. It crosses º i55 below the line you are shown a narrow neck of land six miles across to the Mississippi again; but to the same place by water, owing to the curious turns and windings of the river, it is no less than fifty-two miles. Ten miles below the line you pass the mouth of the Rivière Rouge, or Red River, where we encamped one night. This is a large-stream en- tering into the Mississippi from the right shore, and said to be navigable for twelve or fifteen hun- dred miles. Considerable settlements are already made on this river, the principal of which are, those of Rapide, one hundred miles above the mouth; Avoyellos, one hundred and fifty; and Natchitoches, two hundred and twenty. There are likewise a few other scattered improvements, ex- tending almost up to the Spanish posts of North Mexico; one of which posts is said to be within the boundaries of Louisiana, and consequently within the jurisdiction of the United States. Red River is so called from the colour or finge of its water, but it is not equal to that of the Mississippi for ordinary use. About one hundred and fifty miles from its mouth, there is a bed of soft rocks extending quite across the chan. nel, over which loaded boats cannot pass during the dry season. These rocks, or a part of them, might be very easily removed, as the substance (of ºbſ, IT, . m - the Mississippi in lat. 31. N. About five miles 54- which I have a sample) may be cut with an axe, saw, or knife. Thirty miles above the mouth, the river Noire, or Black River, falls into Red Ri- ver, and on one of its branches, named the Oua- chita, lies the Washita patent, which Burr pretend- ed he was going to settle. A few small salt springs are said to have been found on some of the branches of Red River, near the Sabine, and at its head report. has placed a silver mine. Two tribes of Indians, the Caddoguies and Penis, are settled on this ri- ver, Beyondits head the hunters report two others, called the Appaches and Conchees, as residing on waters which flow to the west. All these tribes are said to be continually at war with the Spaniards. A lieutenant and party were sent out some time before the developement of Burr's schemes, to explore Red River, it was then believed by or der of our government, but, it has since appeared, without even their knowledge. I have heard strange conjectures respecting the object of that expedi. tion; but they not being proper subjects for a let- ter, your curiosity must remain unsatisfied till we meet. The mouth of Red River is in lat. 31. 5. N. long. 91, 37. W. and, according to our pilot's reckoning, one thousand and fourteen miles below the Missouri. - Three miles below Red River is a dangerous outlet called the Bayou Chafalaia. This is a chan nel seemingly worn through by the inundations of the river; which have there found a passage to the 155 sea, near Vermilion Bay, west of New-Orleans. I have conversed with some who are of opinion that this was anciently the only passage of the Missis. sippi t the sea; but at length becoming obstruct- ed by the immense islands of driftwood, the wa- ters forced another passage, and found their way to the gulf by the present channel. I cannot say that I approve of this conjecture, because there is no kind of relation in the appearance of their re- spective channels, that of the Chafalaia being quite too small ever to have received the whole stream of the Mississippi. I will endeavour to suggest a more probable hypothesis. It will be recollected, that Red River discharges itself into the Mississippi about three miles above the Bayou Chaffalaia. I ascended the one, and descended the other in a light skiff for about a quarter of a mile on each. I found the channel of the latter to cor- respond in size with that of the former, and, as far as I was able to judge in a hasty view, the timber and soil of the banks of either appear to be the same. The Mississippi, it is well known, is slowly but continually changing its channel, and about four or five miles to the eastward of their present junction, may still be traced a string of small lakes, which demonstrate almost to a certainty that the bed of the Mississippi formerly flowed through that channel; and that the lakes are the remains of the ancient river. I mentioned this idea to our pilot, who is an old Mississippi sailor. He 156 informed me, that no longer than two years ago, he passed through that old channel with a light boat, during a time of high water, on his return from New-Madrid to New-Orleans. If therefore, this hypothesis be correct, there consequently would have been a strip of land five miles broad between the two rivers, and as the present channel would of course have been a part of it, the very nature of the ground would have invited the cur- rent of the Red River to the channel of the Chaf. ſalaia. There is no other danger to be apprehend- ed from this Bayou, than that of being drawn into it, in which case it would be absolutely impossible for a New-Orleans or Kentucky boat to get out unassisted. But by keeping the middle of the channel, or rather nearest to the opposite shore, the Bayou may easily be avoided. I have already mentioned a narrow neck of land just below the Spanish line, which, though only six miles across, yet is fifty-two round by water. This neck, from the inroads of the cur- rent, is daily wasting away, and in time will be worn through; when, in all probability, the Red River may resume its ancient course through the Chafalaia to the sea. Although I have remarked, that it would be dangerous for a boat to be drawn within the vortex of this outlet, yet I have not the least doubt but barges, keel-boats, and other sharp built vessels, may be brought up against the stream equally easy as against that of the Missis: 157 sippi. Although this channel in all probability once afforded a separate navigation to the sea, yet it does not appear to have been navigable within our knowledge of the country, except as it afforded occasional passages to canoes during high water. This is owing, it is said, to an astonishing natural floating bridge, which has been formed during the course of ages by an accumulation of floating trees, driftwood, and of every thing buoyant which has passed the Chaffalaia. The first obstruction was caused by a few trees becoming bedded and en- tangled in the river, and increasing daily by the collection of others, at length extended from shore to shore, and at this time is said to cover an extent of eighteen miles, and is daily increasing in length and strength. This floating bridge is covered in many places with a considerable growth of timber. I am further informed, that below the first bridge there are several smaller obstructions of the same kind. The water which descends this channel passes under all the bridges, and in many places may be seen whirling through small holes and crevices, and at last rushes forth with considerable violence. When the water is high, small canoes may pass along the margin of the bridge, where a water-course has been formed. - - Forty-five miles below the Chafalaia, on the opposite side of the river, you pass another outlet called the Bayou Tunica. This is a small stream, yet has several rich settlements upon its banks. Ten miles below this, you perceive, on the left bank of the river, some very considerable improve- ments, which are generally distinguished by the name of the Tunica Villages, the remnant of the Tunica tribe of Indians having a few settlements there. The river for thirty miles above this place has gradually described almost a complete circle, and at this village approaches within one mile of another part of its current, which by its course is at a distance of thirty miles. The narrow strip of this peninsula is rapidly wearing away, and, from the action of the current at present on both sides, must in three or four years force through this slight obstruction, by which means the course of the river will be diminished about thirty miles. : Twelve miles below Tunica Village you pass a number of plantations on the right bank of the river, and now begin to perceive a new district of country, every plantation having the appearance of a little town, and following each other in such quick succession, that the woods seem as if by magic to vanish from the sight. This district, which is named Point Coupee, is the richest set- tlement on the Mississippi. Sugar, cotton and rice are here the only articles of culture, and con- tinue so for some distance below New Orleans. Immediately opposite to Point Coupee is ano- ther small outlet called the Bayou Sara ; and five miles below, on the opposite side, the Fausse Riº vière, formerly a bed of the Mississippi, but from 159 a change in the river, and the closing up of the ends of the old channel, has been converted into a lake almost annular, nearly the breadth of the ri- ver. Two miles further, on the right bank, you pass the Bayou Crocodile, or, as it is sometimes called, Thompson's Creek. About two miles and a half lower, you pass the Little Cliffs, another ridge of highlands, but less elevated than most of those you have already passed. It is nearly one mile in front, and on the left side of the river. From thence the right bank is generally improved for twenty-four miles, till you arrive at Baton Rouge, one hundred and eighty miles below the city of Natchez, and one thousand one hundred and twenty-two from the Missouri. Yours, - C. S. s 160 LETTER xxx. - New-Orleans, April 26, 1808. Dear Friend, BATON ROUGE lies on the east side of the river, and is the only Spanish post on the Missis. sippi, occupied by a garrison. This fort is said to contain a park of two hundred pieces of artil- lery, with ammunition and other military stores in proportion. The garrison is rated at six hundred men, but at present there are not quite two hun. dred, most of them having deserted up the coun- try. This is the dépôt which it is said Burr and Co. intended to seize, in order to equip them- selves for greater enterprises; and had he attempt- ed it with one hundred Kentuckians, he would no doubt have succeeded, as nearly half the garri- son was unfit for duty at that time. The village, which contains about one hundred houses, makes a very indifferent appearance. It is situated on a bluff about forty feet higher than the annual inundations generally rise. This is the 16.1 last of the bluffs or highlands you pass in your course down the river. The evening before our arrival at Baton Rouge, one of our men shot the last deer that we saw on the Mississippi. Game of every kind grows scarcer on this river as you de- scend, and that which we found below the Ar- kansas was very indifferent indeed. Baton Rouge lies in lat. 30. 29. N. long. 91. 10. W. From Baton Rouge you descend fifteen miles to the Bayou Manchac, or, as it is sometimes called, the Ibberville River, being an outlet of the Mississippi on the left shore. This Bayou, or ri- ver, might with more propriety be called a natural ditch or canal, as it is only during three months of the year that it can be navigated at all, and that by vessels which draw less than five feet water. It is perfectly dry the remainder of the year. When the river is high, it forms a communication with the river Amitié, which is navigable for seventy or eighty miles, and with the lakes Maurepas and Pontchartrain, and thence along the bays on the coast to Mobile Bay. It is likewise the boundary between the Spanish province of West Florida on that quarter, and the island of New-Orleans, which is formed by the communication of this Bayou with the Lakes and the Mississippi. - Eight miles below the Bayou Manchac, on the opposite side, you pass another outlet called the Bayou Placquemine, which is said to form a com: ºf OT, II. X. 162 º munication with the Bayou Chafalaia. It likewise affords an easy inland communication by several channels with the gulf west of New-Orleans, and particularly with the rich and flourishing settle- ments of Atacapas and Opelousas. These are si- tuated on Little Red and Teshee Rivers; small streams which empty themselves into Vermilion Bay, in the Gulf of Mexico, west of New-Orleans. Opelotsas is noted for a breed of horses, whose good qualities, for travelling the immense wil- dernesses which lie between most of the settle- ments, render them particularly serviceable. They may be had at all prices between fifteen and twen- ty dollars. I have indeed heard of horses being sold as low as three or four dollars a head : but this is only applicable to the wild horses of North Mexico. Some scattered droves of these are fre- quently found beyond the swamps, ranging the prairies on the western side of the river. Ten miles further you pass the Manchac Church, Oſl the left bank; and twenty-two more you see ano- ther on the opposite side, distinguished by the name of La Fourche Church, as likewise an outlet called Bayou La Fourche. This Bayou offers ano- ther inland communication with the coast west of New-Orleans, with which it communicates by two different channels; from whence it has taken its name of The Forks, or La Fourche. It likewise communicates with the settlements of Atacapas and Opelousas, which extend quite down to the 163 coast as already noticed. The Indians and French are better acquainted with this Bayou by the name of the Chitamaches River, from an ancient nation of that name, settled near its mouth, which, from being very powerful and warlike, has by wars and diseases dwindled away to about thirty families. I recollect some well authenticated facts of this nation, (at the time of La Salle’s unfortunate expe- dition to the westward of their settlements,) being described as having actually been seen devouring the flesh of their enemies, who were either killed or taken in battle - About six miles below this outlet we were wea- ther-bound for thirty hours, during which time we experienced one of the most dreadful thunder- storms that I ever witnessed. The greatest part of that day and night, the Mississippi exhibited a constant war of the two elements. The wind, which blew a perfect hurricane, had raised a most tremendous swell in the river; and had we not fortunately been on the windward shore, our boat in all probability would have shared the fate of two others, who passed us, and were dashed to pieces on the opposite side. About ten miles below La Fourche, on the left side, you have a handsome view of the only elegant and modern built house upon this extensive river. It belongs to the estate of a Mr. B-, and displays not only the spirit, but the taste of the proprietor. From this seat you descend six miles to Contrell's 164 Church, and seventeen more to that of Bonna Ca- ra, both on the opposite side of the river; and eighteen miles lower you pass the last, which is called Rouge or Red Church, on the left bank. From thence you have thirty miles more to the city of New-Orleans; being about one thousand two hundred and fifty-seven miles from the Mis- souri; and having passed one hundred and forty- nine islands. Before I give you an account of the city of New-Orleans, (which I shall reserve for the sub- ject of my next.) I have to make some general re- marks and observations on the navigation of the Mississippi. A voyage down the Mississippi is very different from one on the Ohio, where the numberless im- provements arrest the attention, and the gentleness of the current affords time to dwell upon and ad- mire the thousand beauties of that delightful stream. But on the Mississippi you are descending through an immense unimproved wilderness, where there is little to attract your notice. Besides, the rapidity of the stream, obstructed with endless islands, sand- bars, snags, sawyers, and planters, occupies so much of your care, that you scarce have time for reflection, except in the evening after landing. Among the many observations I have made respecting the two rivers, I have noticed, that the Ohio is subject to be more violently agitated even by a less wind, than the Mississippi. I have fre- 165 quently been obliged to lay to all day on the for- mer, in consequence of the heavy swell which was running ; whilst on the latter, under similar cir- cumstances, and even with a stronger wind, we were able to continue our course. This I can at- tribute only to the superior density” and velocity of the Mississippi; and although I have seen it equally agitated with the Ohio, yet it then blew a smart gale. - Another very striking difference we experienced in the quantiry and variety of game afforded by the two rivers. On the Ohio we had almost every day an opportunity of seeing a deer or a bear crossing from one shore to the other; but during my whole course to this place, I saw but one deer in the Mississippi, and this one had been forced to the river to avoid a pack of wolves who had hunted him down. We saw no bears attempt to cross the river, nor did we find them on the many islands at which we encamped during our voyage. On the main land we frequently dis- covered their tracks, until we passed Natchez, after which we saw no more of them. Though deer were not so often met with as on the Ohio, yet our Canadians were but seldom disappointed when they had an opportunity of an hour's range * A pint of Mississippi water (owing to the quantity of mud incorporated with it) is heavier than the same quantity ºf the Ohio. - - 166 on any of the uplands. But I do not recollect a single instance of their ever having found any on the low wet grounds. The Mississippi River, as well as the Ohio, is very subject to fogs, which frequently de- tained us for five or six hours together; during which it was so thick that we were not able to distinguish objects at the distance of one hundred feet. I have often observed that the fog was en- tirely confined to the surface of the river, and on more than one occasion have climbed to the top of a tree, where I saw a clear sky, with the fog beneath me; which had all the appearance of a river. These long continued and heavy fogs ge- nerally rise only to about thirty or forty feet in height. - The current of the Mississippi may be rated, in an ordinary state of its waters, at three miles an hour. By a regular log and line, we found its greatest strength did not exceed four miles an hour, not even in any place where it had acquired an acceleration of motion by the projection of a point, obstruction by an island, or contraction of the channel. Nor does its velocity, during any stage of its waters, exceed, in my opinion, an average of five miles an hour. The navigation of the Mississippi must always be attended with difficulties and dangers, as long as twelve or fifteen hundred miles of its bank re- main covered with enormous trees, which are con. 4. 167 º tinually tumbling into the river, and forming a succession of snags, sawyers, and planters. And even when this difficulty shall be removed by a competent increase of population, others, although less, will still remain. The channel of the Missis- sippi, which changes with every stage of water, is continually creating new sand-bars and islands; so that the whole channel cannot be said to be found altogether in the same place for two years together. Add to this, that the turbidness of the water is such as to prevent any thing being seen at a depth of six inches; so that those boats who use a fair wind are always obliged to have one hand standing forward with a long pole, ready to sound the bottom whenever he is ordered. The Mississippi can scarcely be said to be dan- gerous to those ascending the river, as their pro- gressive motion is generally so slow, as to render it almost impossible to receive any great injury, unless through some carelessness of their own. But in descending the dangers are great, and often so sudden and unexpected, that nothing but the greatest presence of mind and attention can save a boat from being lost. I have in a former letter given an account of what are called Sawyers, planters, floating islands, falling banks, &c. on this river; and shall now proceed to say something of the manner of avoid- ing those dangers. 168 You have already been apprized, that the saw- yers and planters are generally found near the shores; that is to say, they extend about one third of the distance across the river from each side; yet sometimes are found in the very middle of the channel. Were it practicable, therefore, al- ways to keep the middle of the river, the greater part of those dangers might be avoided; but as the channel continually crosses from shore to shore, where the current always runs strongest, and has a tendency to force you against the banks in the bends of the river, it requires an early look out, and a continued application of the sweeps, to keep the boat from being dashed to pieces against the innumerable Sawyers. Accidents of this kind happen very frequently from the inexperience of some, who consider the navigation of this river equally safe with that of the Ohio; and on finding their boat hurried on towards a Sawyer, generally endeavour to set it the wrong way, and by that means meet the very danger they are striving to avoid. One general rule for descending the river, is, never to attempt to avoid any danger by acting against the current, but always take that with you. The next is, whenever you discover any dangers of the kind just mentioned, let the oars lie still, while you take a range with the sawyer or planter, and some distant object beyond it. Keep your eye steadily fixed on the two objects, and you will - 169 soon discover whether the current will set your boat to the right or left of the danger you wish to avoid. If the far distant object begins to appear on the left of the planter, you need not use the oars, as the boat will pass in safety on that side, and if on the right it will be equally so on that; but if you perceive no visible variation, you are in great danger, and there is not a moment to be lost, but the oars are to be plyed immediately. If the accident should happen in a bend of the ri. ver, and there is sufficient room for the boat to pass in safety, the inside should always be taken, as that is always the natural course of the current. These observations should be made before you come within half a mile of the danger, if circum- stances will admit of it. The next thing to be apprized of is the manner of receiving the shock of a sawyer, when not dis. covered before the danger is unavoidable. In the first place, call for assistance at the steering oar, and turn your boat in such a manner as to make her come obliquely in contact with the sawyer, and receive the stroke as near the upper corner of the bow as possible: but as this will give her a turn, should she escape going to pieces, you must cal- culate whether you will have room to swing on the inside if necessary. With respect to the wooden or floating islands, the same rule will nearly apply to avoid any parti- wor. Ir. - Y. 170 cular points or obstructions; but as there is always a projecting point above which turns the current directly on the most dangerous of these islands, all you have to do is to pass as near that point as can be done with safety; when a few strokes of the oars occasionally will keep you on the outside of the current. - - The islands of the Mississippi present another astonishing singularity; which is, that they move up the stream. Surprising as this phenomenon may seem, it is literally true; and its seeming im: possibility may be easily reduced to a simple de- monstration. You have been apprized of the im- mense quantities of floating trees and other sub- stances, which are constantly brought down by this river; a great part of which is caught at the head of the islands. Here they become entangled and matted together in such a manner, that you frequently may observe great lodges of an acre or two in extent, which in a few years, from the ac- cumulation of leaves, brush, and the mud of the river, become a part of the island. It is in this manner that the head is continually progressing up the river, while the lower part is proportionably washing away. - - - - The banks of the Mississippi, like the river, seem to differ from all others that I have yet seen, inasmuch as they are in a great measure to be equally avoided, being attended with even greater dangers than the sawyers and planters. Many 171 boats, from a want of judgment in selecting their places of encampment along the river, have been totally lost by being overwhelmed with large masses of the bank. These dangers are always greater in low than in high waters. This may be accounted for by the current in the former case continually washing away the foundation of the banks: while in the latter they are not only washed more equally, but even supported by the volume of water pressing against them. The falling banks are very easily distinguished during low water, but not so readily when the river is full. One ge. neral rule for knowing them is the steepness of their sides, which are nearly perpendicular, their tops covered with a growth of old timber, and their being always found in the bends of the ri- ver, where the current runs strongest. Landing at these places should be avoided at all times, but yet there are some exceptions, as, where the banks have very lately fallen, you may frequently find a good but small landing-place. It is always safe to and in the eddies immediately below every pro- jecting point, or at the lower ends of the islands, or wherever you find the young willow or cotton- tree growing. It very often happens, however, that the New-Orleans boats are so unmanageable as to disappoint you in attaining your object. It is therefore necessary to keep the oars at work in order to retain her motion, while you pass as near to the projecting point as you possibly can, with 172 safety to your boat; and the moment you have cleared it, pull hard to reach the edge of the eddy below. It is never safe to defer your landing till after sunset, for, should the rapidity of the current sweep you past the point before you reach the eddy, you may incur the greatest dangers, and perhaps have three or four miles further to drift in the night, before you can find a safe place to make another attempt. - A person experienced on these waters, like our pattroon, will often find a harbour where no one else would think of looking for one. It sometimes happens, that the violence of the wind forces a boat into a bend of the river, where she is obliged to land, without having an opportunity of looking out for a willow point or island. In such a case our pilot several times pulled his boat into a place where he observed that the bank had lately fallen in; always calculating beforehand, whether the drift of the current would leave us room sufficient to get out again. Particular care must be taken, if the water is subsiding, to examine all around your boat that you have a sufficient depth of wa- ter; and, if shallow, that she does not rest on the mud with any great length of her bottom. It is likewise prudent, in some situations, to examine the place where you intend to moor your boat for the night, lest a root or snag should lie in the way, and the water leave the boat resting upon it, in which case it would probably make an end of 173. your voyage by staving a hole through the bot- tom. This, however, is only to be apprehended while the water is falling. I have just been summoned by a party to join in an excursion up the river, and must therefore defer the remainder of this subject for my next. Yours, C. S. LETTER xxxi. New-Orleans, April 28, 1808. Dear Friend, ALTHOUGH I had a high water to descend the Mississippi from the mouth of the Ohio, it was far from being what is called full banks. Yet in many places, where the banks were somewhat lower than common, the water rushed out into the swamps with considerable violence. Many who descend this river consider high water a great ad- vantage, as it not only covers all the Sawyers and planters, but likewise the sand-bars and low islands, and adds considerably to the velocity of the current. Others, however, prefer a low water, (that is within banks,) as in the former case the Mississippi becomes as it were an ocean in the woods. Trees indeed are seen every where, but and no where; and the difficulty of distinguish- ing the right channel is proportionably great Boats in such a situation, especially if there is a 4. - 175 little too much wind, are frequently driven into the woods, where they run a risk of being dashed to pieces against the trees. Or, if they should even escape this danger, and succeed in getting a fast to a tree, yet they never can stem the current while the water. remains up; and when it falls, they will probably find themselves on land, half a mile in the woods. Such accidents happen every year; so that the land may be considered as even more dangerous than the ocean of this surprising country. - - - - - I think Winterbotham, as well as some others, describes the ascent of the Mississippi as com: paratively easy, owing to the numerous eddies which are continually found on one shore or the other. It is true there are some few eddies which carry a current for a mile or two up the stream, but the formation and extent of these always depend upon the volume of water in the river; as when the water is low the eddies are few and small, but when high they are not only more nu- merous, but of much greater extent. Notwith standing this apparent help, the boatmen never choose to risk the loss of time and extra labour, by pulling across from shore to shore to take ad- vantage of these eddies, but always confine them- selves to the nearest shore. Besides, the whole extent of such aid would not, it is probable, amount to more than twenty miles in a thou- sand. - 176 With respect to the ordinary rise of the river, it never exceeds forty feet; and this in many in- Stances depends on the construction or expansion of the channel. Its height, therefore, cannot be rated on a general average at more than thirty feet above the island of New-Orleans. - In time of high water, the whole western bank of the Mississippi, for upwards of one thousand miles, is entirely inundated, and likewise a great part of the eastern shore for the same distance; except where it is prevented by the narrow bluffs and head lands. The western bank, in particular, is bounded by a swamp throughout the whole course, lying nearly parallel to the river from New Madrid to the Gulf of Mexico, and generally from a quarter of a mile to two miles from the river. These swamps, which in many places are forty miles across, serve as reservoirs for a part of the superabundant waters of the river, and form per- manent nurseries for alligators, muschetoes, and diseases. What a pity that the finest and richest soil in the world, watered by one of the noblest rivers on our globe, should, throughout the im- mense distance of more than a thousand miles, not even afford one solitary situation exempt from diseases! Those who have been longest on this river say, that thesettlersare subject to violent intermittent and bilious ſevers. But some respectable physi- clans declare, that they have met with as decided cases of yellow fever here, as ever occurred in any º º 177 of the West India Islands. The aborigines are wholly exempt from their baneful influence, and those born in the country suffer little from their attacks; while the northern emigrants most ge- nerally fall victims to their own imprudence, and the effects of the climate. With respect to the alligators, I did not find them either so large or so numerous as I expect. ed; and although commonly seen as high up as the Arkansas River, yet we saw nonetill wereach- ed the Walnut Hills, upwards of two hundred miles below the mouth of that river. From thence to this city we saw them every day. The Indians and negroes highly relish the tail part of a young alligator, and therefore never miss an opportunity of securing that delicious morsel. I was told of several methods by which they take this animal, one of which seemed to me rather dangerous, and is only attempted by a few negroes of a particular nation, who probably were ac- quainted with it in their own country. They first prepare a piece of hard wood about six or nine inches in length, which is sharpened and barbed at each end, and has likewise a shoulder, to pre- vent its entering too far. A strong cord is then fastened to the middle, one end of which is held by two or three on shore; while another takes the stick and swims out towards the alliga- tor, frequently dashing the water with a dead vo L. II. - Z. 178 fowl, by way of lure. The alligator no sooner discovers it, than he makes in for the shore, and at the moment he has extended his jaws to seize upon the prey, the negro thrusts his stick and fowl into his mouth; when the alligator, by closing up his jaws, runs the two points of the barbed stick through them up to the shoulders of the pin, and, being thereby rendered unable to open them again, he is at length, after a violent struggle, drawn to the shore. Another method, in use by the settlers farther up the river, is to make a kind of a triangular trap out of a large crotch of a tree, and, after it is placed in a proper situation, an ordinary black bottle is filled with as much air as can possibly be conveyed into it through a quill inserted in the cork, after which it is closely stopped. A long line is then tied to the bottle, (which passes over the trap.) and it is thrown as high and as far out in the river as possible. The bottle will make a considerable noise and splashing when it comes in contact with the water. The alligator (who is previously ob- served) makes after it with all imaginable haste, and as often as he attempts to seize it he disap. points himself, by emitting so strong a blast of air that it sends the light bottle continually beyond his reach. He pursues his object, notwithstand- ing all his disappointments, until he is drawn intº the snare, -- 179 These animals are said to live at times upon the hardest substances, stones and pieces of old wood having frequently been found in their stomachs. I have never seen an instance of this kind, but have often taken sharks with stones and leaden sinkers of fishing-lines in their stomachs. I was far from supposing, however, that they must, in consequence, sometimes live upon lead and stones. The alligator, like the shark, is the most voracious of his kind; and where a stone or stick, if not too large, is fast to a piece of meat when it falls in his way, he never stops to separate the one from the other, but swallows the whole. In descending the Mississippi you find a num- ber of small lakes and islets along the margin of this ever-changing current. Some of these islets are of a very singular appearance, having large sturdy old trees in the middle, and diminishing in size and species as they approach the margin of what had lately been the bed of the river. From the growth of these you may with certainty deter. mine the number of years which have elapsed since the change of the current took place. At a distance of two or three miles they have all the appearance of regular islands; but upon a nearer examination they will be found to be surrounded with trees of a young growth. The fish of the Mississippi are not much va- lued either for their variety or their quality. I am unable to say whether it produces all those 180 which have been described as inhabiting its wa- ters. Catfish of three different kinds, and of an enormous size, together with the buffaloe, sturgeon and perch, I have seen; but trout, pike, eels, and turtle-fish, I have not. I have therefore very strong doubts whether the trout and pike are in- habitants of the Mississippi. Small craw-fish are very plentiful, and found in all the western Waters. - I think I mentioned in one of my former letters, that my fishing apparatus was rather out of order. I have since been enabled to purchase hooks and tackling from a Kentucky boat. But after taking three or four cat-fish on as many different evenings, I gave up the sport to the hands, who had more patience to watch the lines than I had. Fishing afforded me no amusement either on the Ohio or the Mississippi, as it required too much sitting, which was always accompanied with too little biting, to please my fancy. - - From Natchez the navigation of the Mississippi is much safer than above, yet far too dangerous to attempt to drift at night, unless it is sufficiently light to keep the middle of the river, or at least a sufficient distance from the shores. I found the bends of the river even here obstructed with planters and sawyers, and they continued so as low down as the Bayou Chafalaia. From Point Cou- pee the navigation becomes not only more safe, but likewise more interesting, as almost every 181 sugar plantation has the appearance of a large set- tlement, interspersed with groves of wild orange- trees, many of which were still loaded with the produce of the last year. The huts of the slaves look like one of our northern villages, while the mansion-house reminds you of the church. Between Natchez and Point Coupee there ap- pear to be some large tracts of ground lying along the river, entirely unimproved : after passing these the whole country appears like a highly culti- vated garden. The land, from Point Coupee down to the city, is most extravagantly dear. A plantation will sell at from forty to fifty dollars an acre, exclusive of the improvements, which often exceed fifty thousand dollars, besides a stock of slaves, valued at from fifty to a hundred thou- sand dollars and upwards. - There is little if any difference in the growth of timber on the lower part of the Ohio, and that part of the Mississippi which lies above the Arkansas River. Those which I have noted on my memo- randum below the mouth of Ohio, are as follows: Hickories, (variety,) hard maple, swamp maple, sugar maple, sycamore, black oak, red oak, white oak, chesnut oak, Spanish oak, live oak, pitch pine, yellow pine, peccan, red cedar, white cedar, cypress, juniper, willows, (variety,) cotton wood, catalpa, sassafras, locust, honey locust, gum, per- simmon, holly, pepperage, dogwood, elm, poplar, black ash, white ash, black walnut, beech, black i82 birch, white birch, chesnut, cherry, plum, buck- eye, sumach, pimento, chinquapin, tulip, cabbage or palmetto, and cucumber. - The feathered inhabitants of this part of the country differ considerably from those in our quarter, although the most of them are seen with us during the summer months. Those which may be considered as local are, the white pelican, white king eagle, swans, sandhill cranes, great white owl, wild turkey, crested bittern, prairie hens, tufted woodcock, ivory woodpecker, great bats, parro- quets, yellow titmouse, rice bird, red bird, red starling, and a number of others, for which I have no names. I shot one or more of nearly all those just enumerated. The pelican is by far the largest and most difficult to approach, as it never alights within gunshot of any woods or bushes, and is equally shy of a boat. The only one I shot was by firing a rifle ball among a. very large flock at a great distance. This bird is the largest our coun- try produces. His colour is chiefly white, except ing a few black feathers in the wing, and when extended from wing to wing will measure seven feet. It has a long crooked beak, partaking in form of both goose and eagle, but its greatest singularity is the enormous pouch with which it is provided, sufficiently large to contain a peck measure. This is used as a kind of reservoir for containing the food which is carried to its young. They do not appear to be a very active bird, as I have frequently 3 observed flocks of them remain all day in the same place asleep. The white king eagle we frequently saw, but never had an opportunity of shooting more than one. This bird is highly valued by the Natchez, Choctaw, and other Indians, on account of the superior whiteness and beauty of some of its feathers, which are particularly appropriated to adorn the heads of their chiefs. We accidentally fell in with four canoes of the Choctaws, who were descending the Yazoo River, just after we had shot the bird last mentioned, from whom I learnt the above particulars. They had a hive of honey which they had found in the woods, and very freely gave us one half of it for the eagle. The swan is also a very handsome bird of a whitish colour, something larger than the goose, which it resembles, and the young ones are said to be very fine eating. Sandhill cranes are likewise of nearly the size and colour of the swan, but not so heavy, Their neck and feet are very long. I shot several of this kind, and the largest measured sº. feet two inches from the tip of the bill to the end of the toes, when extended. I fancy they are the same described by Catesby under the name of the whooping crane, as the moment they rise from the ground, (being always in large flocks) they make so dreadful a noise as fairly to stun your ears, and even prevent your hearing the speech of those around you. - 184 The great white owl to appearance is nearly as large as a goose, but when plucked of its feathers is not much larger than a duck. We saw but one of this species on this river, which one of our Ca- nadians shot; but I have since learned that they are more common. The wild turkey has been already described on the Ohio; and as these are the same, it is unnecessary to say any thing more of it here. The crested bittern is likewise a large bird in appearance, having a large crest on its forehead. Its general hue is a mixture of blue and brown. The prairie hen is not found on the lower parts of the Mississippi, but above they are met with in large flocks in all the woods and prairies. They are a species of the quail, but some thing larger than the partridge, bearing some re- semblance, in voice, colour, and figure, to your domestic guinea-hen. The tufted woodcock is more properly speaking a dark coloured wood- pecker, but of a very large size, nearly equal to the partridge. It has a long tuft of feathers on the back of the head, and is very indifferent eating. The ivory woodpecker is nearly of the same size with the former, and the bill, which is very large and white, is said to be like ivory. The colour of this bird is black and white, the latter most predominant. Its flesh is no better than the last Parroquets are so well known to you that any description of them would be unnecessary. One good quality they possess with which you 185 - are perhaps unacquainted: a dozen of them make a most delicious sea-pie. The rice bird is a small species of blackbird. They chiefly feed upon rice, and are found in large flocks when that grain begins to ripen. The red bird is the Virginian nightingale, with which you are already acquaint- ed. The red starling is about the same size with the last, but its colour neither so deep nor so re- gular. It generally sings while upon the wing. The yellow titmouse is a size less than the two last, and of a dull yellowish colour. This bird, I observed, was always the last that went to roost. I have frequently noticed him perched on a twig on the borders of the swamp, where he would warble for half an hour after sunset, when all the others were at roost. The great bat I am unable to describe from ocular evidence, as I never had on opportunity of seeing one nearer than on the wing. I made several attempts to shoot one, but without effect. All I can therefore say is, that they did not appear to me so large as I had been in- formed they were. Wolves are very numerous along the upper parts of this river, where we were every night entertain- ed with their horrible yells. I believe they are likewise found below in considerable numbers; but in consequence of the vast bodies of swamp along the river, they do not often show themselves in those situations. I do not recollect to have VOL. II. A 3. 186 heard any for some days before our arrival at Natchez, and thence downwards, I am certain we never heard one. - The general average produce of cotton from Palmyra and the country below, is estimated at two thousand pounds weight from each acre, which will sell in the seed, as it comes from the field, at four and five dollars the hundred weight, according to its quality; and if cleaned will com- mand from fourteen to fifteen dollars a hundred on the spot. A prime slave, it is allowed, will at- tend to three acres, which will yield, at the lowest calculation, an annual nett profit of two hundred and forty dollars. The keeping of the slave is not included in this estimate; but as that cannot ex- ceed the odd forty dollars, it will leave a clear profit of two hundred dollars on the labour of each slave. - The price of land along this river varies accord- ing to its situation, the quality being invariably of the best, although not always capable of improve- ment. The lowest priced banklands may be rated at two dollars an acre, and from above Natchez at not more than ten. Swamp lands may be had in any quantities at six cents an acre, but they are in such situations as to be of no manner of use. The common price of freight from St. Louis, St. Genevieve, or Kaskaskias, down to New- Orleans, is one dollar a hundred weight; and a return cargo to the same places is six dollars a hun- 187 dred. This is likewise the established price from New-Orleans to the falls of Ohio, and for any greater distance an additional charge of nearly fifty cents for every hundred miles. º In descending this river, you observe the growth of the cane to increase with every day’s sail after you pass the Ohio, until they acquire a height of thirty feet, and about four or five inches in cir- cumference; after which they again diminish until you pass the 31st degree of north latitude, when they disappear altogether. - - - 2 The cane brakes on the borders of the Missis- sippi are altogether impassable, unless you occa- sionally fall upon some old bear or buffaloe tracks. It is in vain to attempt to force your way through them for any distance. The clearing of a piece of this land is attended with as much difficulty as any other. The whole soil, after being cleared, is so firmly bound together with the roots, that it is almost impossible to drive a plow through it. When a piece of this land is first attempted, they cut down about one hundred yards of the whole front of the piece intended to be cleared, which soon becomes as dry as matches. They then wait for a favourable high wind, when the woods are generally dry, and set fire to the whole front, which creates such an astonishing large fire as effec- tually sweeps of two or three hundred acres at once. We very frequently heard these clearings at a distance of two miles, especially if it was a 188 -- still evening; when the loud and frequent explo- sions strongly resembled an engagement with mus- ketry between two hostile armies. - There are no mill seats in this lower coun- try; yet their utility is in a great measure sup- plied by the horse-mill, with which most of the plantations are provided above. After descending as low as the island of New-Orleans, you find a considerable number of saw-mills, which are built a small distance from the banks of the river, from which a canal is cut large enough to admit a suf- ficient supply of water for about four or five months in the year. After the water has fallen below the level of the wheel they remain dry for the remainder of the year. These mills are always situated near the borders of the swamps, and the water which has served to supply them, passes off through the lakes in the rear. - Since the date of my last I have found four vessels, all of which promise to sail for New York within ten days. I shall certainly take passage on board of the first that sails; and in all probability. within thirty days may have the pleasure of once more embracing you. - Yours, º 189 LETTER XXXII. Forf Plaquemines, May 1, 1808. - 2 Dear Friend, A FEW days after the date of my last, as I. was one morning strolling along the Levee in com- pany with some friends, I was familiarly saluted by a pretty smart slap on my shoulder; when, upon turning round, I was agreeably surprised to see my friend Captain A–. I left him in New-York, but I recollected that he informed me he had purchased a plantation below New Orleans, to which he intended to remove with his family in the spring. After some conversation he insisted upon my paying a visit to his family; and as I had already promised his lady to call if I arrived safe at New Orleans, I engaged to go down in the packet-boat the next morning. Thus have I ac counted to you for my appearance at Fort Pla. quemines. 190 I promised you in my last, that my next should contain some account of the city of New-Orleans; but as I do not intend to furnish you with such another volume as my last, I shall avail myself of a few hours leisure and inclination, to discharge that promise. The city of New-Orleans, which lies in lat. 29. 57. N. and long. 89, 55. W. is situated on an island of the same name, on the east or left side of the Mississippi as you descend. It is regularly laid out, the streets cross each other at right an- gles, and are generally about forty feet in breadth. The houses of the principal streets nearest the ri- ver, are built of brick covered with slate, tile, or a fire-proof composition. The back part of the town is chiefly built of wood. The middle of the streets are all in their natural state, unpaved, but the side walks are laid either with brick or flat stone, which renders walking through the city to- lerably pleasant, except when you have occasion to cross the streets in wet weather. The city contains at present nearly eleven hun- dred houses, and its population is said to amount to twelve thousand souls. Its extent along the ri- ver, from the gate of Chapitoulan on the north to that of France on the south, is nearly one mile in length. It is about half a mile in breadth from the river to the margin of the swamps in the rear. The “gates on the north,” and the “ gates on the south,” may probably impose upon your ear, and 4. 191 convey an idea of this being a walled city; yet nothing can be further from the truth; for what- ever these gates might formerly have been, there is nothing to be seen of them at present. In the centre of the town is the site of the great cathedral church and town-house; and in front a square, now inclosed and covered with grass, which was originally intended for a parade. A little be- low this, on the Levee, is the market-house, which however is only used for selling meat and fish. The whole Levee, for nearly a quarter of a mile above the market, is occupied as a public place for selling articles of every description. Vegetables of almost every kind are here sold in the greatest plenty and perfection; but the fish and meat are very poor. The poultry which is brought from the upper country, and the oysters from the Lakes, are both very tolerable. The plan of a new custom-house has lately been marked out near the site of the old one, which is a miserable wooden building, long since abandon- ed to the negroes and Indians, and fast falling to decay. At the south-east end of the town the Ur- suline nuns have a convent and chapel, which are liberally endowed. Few of its former inmates, however, chose to remain after the change in the government took place; but in consequence of their violent prejudices against the Americans, whom they believe to be a nation of atheists, most of them retired to the Havanna or to Vera Cruz. 192 This city was fortified, while in possession of the Spaniards, with works on the north, east, and south sides; but these, since the cession of the country to the United States, have been considered of no importance, and suffered to go to ruin, excepting at the south end, where they have been much en- larged and improved. The barracks which, are large and spacious, are situated a little above the lower fort, and are kept in very good repair. The Levee is an embankment of earth about six feet in height, raised to prevent the river from overflowing the town and adjoining country, which lie below the surface of the river. This embank- ment commences at Fort Plaquemines, and ex- tends to the head of the island, a distance of a hundred and thirty miles, making an excellent road about twenty feet wide, which is dry at all seasons of the year. It passes directly in front of the town along the margin of the river, and affords a very pleasant evening walk. It formerly was lined with rows of orange-trees, but from a want of proper care and attention, there is but here and there one remaining. The inhabitants of New-Orleans are mostly French, and members of the church of Rome, who, notwithstanding the great influx of Ameri. cans since the cession, still compose three fourths of the white population of the city. The church service in the great cathedral, (which is accompa- nied with a very fine organ) is really sublime, and 193 as a form of worship, particularly calculated to make a deep impression upon the tender minds of youth, and the fair sex in general. The Ame- ricans, although sufficiently numerous to form a respectable congregation, have no church, nor as far as I can learn, are they at all disposed to give the necessary encouragement to a presbyterian preacher, who has lately settled in the town, by way of experiment. They seem upon the whole to be satisfied that these things should remain “as they are.” - The chapel of the convent of the Ursuline nuns is small, but very neat within, being chiefly calcu- lated for the accommodation of that sisterhood. Puºlic service is performed here regularly. The nuns are separated from the audience by a partition of lattice-work, through which they may barely be distinguished. Their whole number at present does not amount to more than forty or fifty. A summer residence in New-Orleans must be extremely disagreeable, as even at this early season I find it intolerably hot and sultry. The evenings however are cool and pleasant, and as this city has no public gardens or promenade, the Levee after sunset is crowded with company, who having been confined all the day to their houses, seldom miss this favourable opportunity of breathing a little fresh air. - - That unfortunate class of females, the mulattoes, who from their infancy are trained in the arts of V 01, II, B 5 194. love, are far from being considered in the same humiliating light with those white ladies to whom they are nearly allied in profession. Since custom has planted an insurmountable barrier to their ever forming an honourable connexion with white men, necessity has compelled them to resort to the prac- tice of forming temporary engagements with those whom they may fancy. Engagements of this kind are every day formed, for a month or a year, or as much longer as the parties may be pleased with each other. During any engagement of this kind, it is in vain to solicit improper favours: they are generally as strictly continent as the marriage ce- remony could possibly make them. When the term is expired, or the lover gone, they accept of the next best offer that may be made to them. This class of the society of this city is so generally esteemed, that no gentleman hesitates a moment in paying his compliments to those females be- longing to it, whom he may meet with in the street or elsewhere. A far greater degree of distinction prevails among this class than even among the whites. They who are so many de- grees removed from the black that the connection. is no longer visible in the skin, consider them- selves as the “best blooded;” and so down to those who are only one degree superior to the blacks, whom they all treat with more contempt than even the whites do. - - 195 The whites, the quarteroons or coloured people, and the blacks, have each their separate amuse: ments. The ladies divert themselves by riding in a single horse chaise, always driving themselves, accompanied by a female companion, and a slave of the same sex, You never see a coach with la. dies in the inside, but you will at the same time find an equal number of female slaves behind; no lady presuming even to cross a street or visit her Inext neighbour, without her favourite female slave to attend her. The season for balls is already past; of course I shall have no opportunity of saying any thing respecting them, except from information. It ap- pears, that the fashionable part of the city is di- vided into two parties, who have each their re- spective ballrooms. That of the whites is sacred to themselves, nor can any white lady, who is known to be in the least degree tainted with the blood of Africa, ever gain admittance there. The coloured people have likewise their separate ball. room, from which all are excluded who have not some white blood in their veins. The white gen- tlemen of course are freely admitted, who gene- rally prefer this assembly to their own, which it at all times surpasses both in the elegance of its decorations, and the splendºuſ of the dress of the ºompany. - The amusements of the gentlemen are very much confined to billiards abroad, and cards at 196 home, or at some appointed house; and it is said they are generally too much attached to the bottle after dinner. I must confess the few observations I was enabled to make inclines me to believe there is some truth in the report. - This town, although not large, yet supports two French theatres, and both houses are in ge- neral crowded. The same distinction prevails at the theatre as in their assemblies. The lower boxes are appropriated to the use of the whites, and the upper to the people of colour. With re- spect to the performance, I found myself incom- petent to make up a judgment, as my knowledge of the language was too limited to distinguish the merits of the respective performers. The theatres are open three times a week, but the fullest and most brilliant audience is always collected toge- ther on a Sunday evening. I cannot but admire the policy of such an accommodating system of religion, which, while it provides for the salvation of the soul, takes care it shall not interfere with the more important pleasure ºf the body. Our Yankees feel not a little foolish upon their first arrival in this city, where the manners and amusements are so very different from their own. Their delicacy is first offended, at finding most of the billiard tables placed in the from troom on the lower floor, with all the doors and windows open for the admission of fresh air, but entirely subject to the view of every passenger in the 197 - º - street. Yet this is but a trifle, in comparison to the shock their piety receives on the first Sunday morning after their arrival, by finding these tables surrounded by a much larger company, and the stroke of the cue and mace resounding from one end of the city to the other. In the afternoon, a walk in the rear of the town will still more astonish their bewildered imagina- tions with the sight of twenty different dancing groups of the wretched Africans, collected toge- ther to perform their worship after the manner of their country. They have their own national mu- sic, consisting for the most part of a long kind of narrow drum of various sizes, from two to eight feet in length, three or four of which make a band. The principal dancers or leaders are dressed in a variety of wild and savage fashions, always orna- mented with a number of the tails of the smaller wild beasts, and those who appeared most horri- ble always attracted the largest circle of company. These amusements continue until sunset, when one or two of the city patrole show themselves with their cutlasses, and the crowds immediately disperse. In the evening, on their return from the scene last mentioned, they may probably be attracted by the noise of a drum, which upon inquiry, they will be told is only a mode of giving notice to the public, that the performance at the theatre will commence in the evening I heard a gentleman - 198 from the eastward exclaim, on returning from a Sunday tour through the city, “O where are our selectmen of Salem 222 - In attending to the amusements of the whites, the yellows, and the blacks, I had almost forgotten to mention the reds, who may likewise be said to have their own national music and dancing. These are a gang of poor miserable naked wretches, com- posed of outcasts from the Tunica, Alibama, Chit- temaches, and Otacapas tribes, who reside in the vicinity of New Orleans. From the facility with which they procure liquor they are constantly drunk, not even excepting their women and chil- dren; and they exhibit such daily scenes of riot, obscene dances, and intoxication, that they are in deed a nuisance to the city, which calls aloud for the interposition of the police. - There is likewise an establishment in the city called the Public Baths, which, although con- structed upon a narrow scale, yet affords all the necessary conveniences for the use of the warm and cold bath. I found myself so much invigo- rated after a liberal use of the former, that I ne- glected no morning while in that city, of enjoying that pleasure. Boarding in New-Orleans is not only expensive, but the accommodations at the boarding houses are at best indifferent. The tables in general are scantly served with solid dishes, and most of these are composed of such indifferent materials, as sel- 4. dom to excite any great degree of appetite; espe- cially in those who have been accustomed to a northern table. The common charge at the first rate French boarding houses is forty-five dollars a month; supper and wine not included. There is not, as yet, a single genteel American boarding: house established in the city. The two or three that have acquired that name are mere second rates: yet these afford a table better furnished at thirty-two dollars a month, than the others at forty-five. I have already informed you, that the water of the Mississippi was thick and turbid. It will de- posit a sediment of half an inch deep in a half pint tumbler of the water. Yet no other is used for the table. It is generally taken from the river, and filtered through a drip-stone into a large stone jar, capable of containing a barrel, from whence it is again taken cool and transparent, when required, for use. - The waters of this river have the credit of being a powerful specific against sterility; and, from the many and well authenticated facts that were cited to me, I have great reason to believe there may be some truth in the relation. Another peculiar quality ascribed to it is that of being an effectual cure for the itch, and that there never has been an instance known of that disease ever being brought down the river by the thousand boats which arrive every year; nor even by any vessels 200 - coming up the river, when the water of the Mis: sissippi was used for every purpose. - The city is altogether unprovided with any re- gular watchmen. It is guarded every night by a patrole of the citizens, who are enrolled, and di. vided into regular companies for that purpose. The river at New Orleans is about one mile and a quarter broad, and from thirty to forty fa- thom deep. The Levee in front is crowded with large vessels from every part of the world. They generally lie three deep, in a line extending from near the centre of the town to one quarter of a mile below. The same distance at the upper end is always lined with one or two hundred Ken- tucky and New-Orleans boats, from the interior of the States of New York, Pennsylvania, Vir- ginia, Kentucky, Ohio, and Tennessee, as well as from the Territories of Mississippi, Louisiana, Indiana, and the Missouri. Two of those at pre- sent along the Levee I recognised as my states- men. One of them was loaded with wild cherry plank from Chatouque Lake, and the other with ice; the latter of which articles they sold at twenty- five cents a pound. - Notwithstanding New-Orleans is, and I fear must ever remain, an unhealthy situation, yet I do not hesitate to express as my opinion, that it will at some future period not only rival all the great commercial cities of the United States, but even of the world. With respect to its local situal 20] tion, it is the best which the island affords; and as far above the swamps as the convenience of the navigation will admit, being no more than eighteen miles above a curious bend in the river, called the English Turn; to which place, vessels, with the prevailing southerly winds, can ascend with ease, but from thence they are ahead. Its general situation is the most eligible on the river, and perhaps unequalled by any other on the globe. Placed by nature at the mouth of the noblest of rivers, running north two thousand five hundred miles; another arm extending to the north-west the same distance; a third to the north-east twelve hundred miles; while a fourth below the two last extends westwardly nearly fifteen hundred more. These again receive in their courses many navi- gable streams, which in any other country would be denominated rivers of the first magnitude. Thus she receives the produce of a thousand soils and climates, which have no outlet except by her ports Another communication has lately been opened with the lakes Pontchartrain, Maurepas, and the Bayou east of New Orleans, by means of a canal executed by the Baron de Carondelet. This ex- tends from the Old Fort in the rear of the city, to the Bayou St. John, a distance of nearly two miles, where a considerable village has been settled; and about five miles further, at the mouth of the VOL. II. & C 202 Bayou, is a fort which commands the whole com- munication. This canal is a beautiful and valua- ble improvement to the city, whose inhabitants, with a view to honour so public spirited an un- dertaking, have erected a monument on the old town-house, executed in the English, French and Spanish languages, purporting, that “ This canal was designed, planned, and executed by the Baron de Carondelet, for the convenience of the city.” Lake Pontchartrain, which lies immediately be- hind the city, is about thirty-five miles long and twenty-five broad, and generally from twelve to fourteen feet deep. The south-west end of the lake is very shallow, with a muddy shore, but the opposite side in many places is a handsome gra- velly beach. Lake Maurepas lies west of the lat- ter eight or nine miles. It is about twelve miles long and eight wide. The Mississippi, below New-Orleans, has several other communications with the Gulf, both to the east and west of the ri- wer; but all of them are too shallow to be navi. gated except by the smallest kind of craft. Lake Wachas, which lies on the western side of the ri- ver, and nearly opposite to, and only twelve miles distant from the city, is about twenty-two miles long and six wide. This, in some short time hence, will afford a much shorter communication for boats of easy burthen, with the gulf west of New-Orleans. Besides the lakes already mention- ed, there are a number of others and smaller ones, 2es whose names are not generally known, as they are never frequented by any person unless by accident. The tides at New-Orleans are barely perceptible, never swelling more than from twelve to fifteen and eighteen inches. Yet it sometimes happens, during a violent hurricane, that the sea rises to such a height as to cause a reflux of the river, which covers the whole country from the sea to the head of the island of New Orleans, with a depth of from two to eight feet of water. Al- though these accidents are to be dreaded as inci- dent to the country, yet they are not to be calcu- lated upon as annual visitations; as it very often happens that they are not experienced once in half a dozen years. - - From New-Orleans down to the English Turn, a distance of eighteen miles, the land retains near- ly the same height; but from thence to Fort Plaquemines, which is twenty-five miles lower, they decline still more, and become unfit for any culture except that of rice. From thence down to the Gulf, a distance of fifty miles, they are an entire low marshy swamp, covered with water and reeds. - - - About fifteen miles below New-Orleans, on the eft side of the river, is a small creek running east- wardly, and emptying itself into Lake Borgne and the sea, bordered by a small body of very fine lands along its banks, on which is situated the * - Poblacion de St. Bernardo, or, as it is sometimes – 204 called, Terre aux Boeufs. This settlement, although but small, contains at present more Spaniards than all the rest of Louisiana; as most of them removed to the island of Cuba, on the cession of the coun- try to the United States. The markets of New- Orleans are in a great measure supplied with ve- getables and poultry from this place. I find that the expense of travelling is not the only inconvenience of the country, with which you become acquainted at this place, although one would be inclined to suppose, from the extrava- gance of the charges, that this department had been particularly attended to. Descending in the Packet, (a dirty little open row-boat,) to this place, I had to pay twenty-five cents for every league; and upon inquiry I was informed, that the price of a horse for travelling up to the city has been established by custom at one dollar a league. Having nothing further to say with respect to the city of New Orleans, or the country imme- diately around it, you will naturally expect, that, after having had an opportunity of examining this country from the mouth of the Missouri to the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, that I should have formed an opinion either favourable or unfavoura- ble to the general character of the country. Although the cession of the province of Lou isiana is a most desirable acquisition in itself to the United States, yet I cannot forbear expressing it as ºny opinion, that as our country is already suff- 205. ciently large to enjoy in effect all the blessings of our happy form of government, the possession of the two Floridas, with the island of New-Orleans, would have been a much more desirable object. The acquisition of these two provinces would not only have tended to consolidate our already wide. extended empire from Maine to New Orleans, by adding a large extent of sea-coast, but likewise have furnished us with all the valuable harbours included within them, which are very much wanted in the southern extremity of our empire; whereas at present we have only added a few more hundred miles of a shoal and useless coast to the great length we before had. Add to this, that many of the rivers, which rise and flow through the States of Georgia and the Mississippi Territory, dis- charge their waters through these provinces into the Gulf of Mexico, east of New-Orleans; where, as already has frequently been the case, our citi. zens, while descending their waters, have been harassed by every petty officer of a foreign power who felt disposed to insult them. As Cato is said for a long time never to have left the senate-house without exclaiming, (no matter how ineptly.) “Delendo est Carthago,” I think it would be well for one of our senate to adopt a similar practice, and on every such occasion to exclaim, “ The Floridas must be ours.” - As my last sheet of paper is exhausted, I shall barely have room to inform you, that I return to 20 where I have engaged morrow, Orleans to New- my passage on board the sh ich will sail Should any , wh ip F- day or two after. - Iſºl a York further occur for New- th to the I shall not he river Ing t descendi In ing 2 Ë ſ！ ∞ Æ O ：-） � bº ∞ ∞ cae Or On my pa 207 LETTER XXXIII. Ship F-, off Havanna, - May 15, 1808. Dear Friend, of the city of New-Orleans, and its vicinity. But as I know you will be anxious to receive a further account of the Mississippi from that city down to its mouth, I shall proceed with my description of that part of the river, and conclude with such ob- servations as my memorandum may furnish. After leaving New Orleans, the rapidity of the current is such, that with a light wind vessels may descend to the sea in twelve hours. We did not, however, reach it so soon, as we had a head wind to beat against, besides being detained nearly half a day in weighing our anchor; which was so bedded in the mud that it was impossible to break ground, Nor do I think we should have succeeded at last, had not a large tree acci- 208 dentally drove broadside athwart the cable while it was tough strained, and broke the hold of the ground. - You have already been informed, that the En- glish Turnº is eighteen miles below the city; to which place, on the east side of the river, the improvements make a respectable appearance. On the opposite shore, however, they decline much sooner. - - - Fort Plaquemines, which is twenty-five miles below the Turn, is situated on the western bank of the river. It contains a small garrison, station- ed there principally for the purpose of examining all vessels which pass. The land below the fort subsides rapidly into swamps, and within a few miles further the trees disappear entirely; when nothing remains, as far as the eye can reach, but an immense collection of marsh, that produces a coarse kind of reeds, about four or five feet in height, and extends down to the sea, a distance of about thirty miles. - After passing the fort about twenty-four miles, you approach the three passes, or channels of the Mississippi. These are distinguished by the names of the east, south, and south-west passes. The first of these is about twenty miles in length to the so called from the first attempt that nation made on the city of New-Orleans, when the ships of war, after as- cending thus far, were obliged to re-Turn. 209 Sea, the second twenty-two, and the third, which was formerly used as the principal entrance, is twenty-five miles. Neither of the two last have more than eight or nine feet of water over the bar at present. The eastern pass is that which is now principally used, and about five miles after enter- ing it, it again divides itself into two branches, which are distinguished by the names of the Ba- lize and La Loutre. The former of these is that which is preferred by the pilots as containing the deepest water, which may be reckoned at sixteen feet over the bar. This bar is very narrow, and immediately after passing it you have water suffi- cient for a ship of the line. - Fort Plaquemines is the last of the works, or improvement of any kind, that you meet with until you come to the Balize, where there is a small fort, and a house for the accommodation of the pilots. The passage up the river, from the Balize to the city, takes up from five to thirty days, accord- ing to wind and weather. I was indeed informed of an instance, where a Hamburgh ship, which had a passage of sixty-five days from Europe to the Balize, was afterwards seventy-six days in ascending the river to the city. The shores of the river on either side are so bold, that a vessel may lie along side of the banks throughout the whole distance from the fort to the city. vot. If. D d 210 I already had occasion to remark to you, that the western bank of the Mississippi from New Madrid down to the Gulf, a distance of eleven hundred miles, consists of a narrow strip of rich soil, varying from one quarter to two miles in breadth. This lies immediately upon and parallel to the river, but is rendered useless from its being annually inundated by the rise of the river, when it is covered with from one to eight feet of water. It has been generally asserted, and as ge- nerally believed, that this river runs upon a ridge throughout this country. But nothing can be more erroneous or absurd than this opinion. It has, however, the appearance of an incomprehensible mystery, which being added to the many and very respectable authorities who have advocated this belief, it cannot be wondered at that such should be the generally received opinion. It is invariably the case with the Mississippi throughout the whole distance last mentioned, (excepting where the bluffs or headlands on the eastern side approach the river) that both its banks are always highest on the margin of the river; and during the annual inundations the water rushes over the banks with a considerable current, and descends to the swamps in the rear, which are soon filled to the general level of the river. When the inundation has at- tained its height, and the waters begin to fall, those in the swamps equally subside with the ri- wer, until that has fallen to a level with its banks, *. º S. S. S. Sº ºn tº 2] 1 which then form a natural dam, and prevent the swamps from discharging their waters that way to the main river. This vast body of water is af. terwards in part collected by the several streams which intersect this country, and conveyed to the general receiver; but a greater part is carried off to the sea by the numerous Bayous and outlets which have been formed, as so many necessary extra channels for the superabundancy of the wa- ters, whoever will take the trouble to sound the river occasionally throughout this distance, will find a depth of from fifteen to forty fathom; which, when compared with the elevation of the banks in front, and the lowest level of the swamps in the rear, (which do not exceed eight, ten, or twelve feet,) he will be satisfied, that if the channel of the river was laid dry, the Mississippi, like all other rivers, would be found to have traced its course through the lowest valleys. With respect to the elevation of the banks, you may recollect I have already informed you, that the borders of this river are always higher than the interior; and no doubt you will be as much at a loss as I myself was at first to assign a sufficient cause for so curious a phenomenon. This, however, is very readily solved on the spot, by giving half an hour's attention to the operation of the river, while overflowing its banks. You will then observe, that the first vegetation on the margin, whether of reeds, weeds, or young 212 willows, equally serve as sieves or strainers to the water that passes through them. By this means they collect vast quantities of leaves, and other light substances, immediately upon the margin of the banks; which, from the extreme muddiness of the water, receive a light cement of mud and slime with every swell of the river, until at length they acquire a height nearly equal to the general rise of the river. Whilst the swamps in the rear, from the circumstance of the waters being already strained, receive no other aid towards raising their surface, than the ordinary deposit of mud and slime with which the waters abound. - Another process, but upon a larger scale, may likewise be remarked higher up the river, where the banks have already acquired a considerable height, and are covered with a large growth of timber, and underbrush or cane-brakes. There, besides the lighter and smaller substances, vast quantities of rotten wood, trees, and brush, are brought down by the freshes, part of which is col- lected by the trees on the banks, (when the wind or water has forced them out of the channel) where they again serve to obstruct and collect other floating substances. In the course of a few weeks, all the smaller interstices are filled with leaves, weeds, and mud, and in a few years are buried by the repeated accumulations of mud and vegetable matter, deposited by every succeeding 213 inundation. You will readily perceive, that by this process the banks nearest the river must always be highest, and that they will continue to increase, until, by repeated inundations, they have acquired a height equal to the greatest swell of the river. After which, from the decomposition of the pro- duce of their own soil, they will, in the course of time, exceed the highest rise of the river. This no doubt has been the case with the upper country from New Madrid to near the Grand Towers, where only very extraordinary freshes can rise to the summit of the banks. The same thing will probably, in the course of succeeding ages take place in all the country below. This river originally must have flowed along the banks of the highest land; which at so early a period; in all probability, did not extend any lower than the mouth of the Ohio on the western side; whilst the whole lower country remained an immense swamp, like that below New-Orleans at present; and probably the site of that city was at that period a part of the Gulf of Mexico. Indeed, when viewing the country from the mast head, and tracing out the numberless lakes, sounds, and bays, discernible on every side, I have more than once thought, that the island of New-Orleans must have composed a part of the Great Gulf, and have been gained by the encroachments of the ri- ver; and that in time another city may arise near 214 the site of the present mouth of the river. But to proceed: Supposing this, then, to have been the earliest course of the river, it will be seen, that by the means already mentioned, it would at length have formed its banks on either side, and afterwards progressed gradually down the river, until, by some obstruction of the natural channel above, the cur- rent was turned from its course. This would of course produce a reaction upon one of its banks, which being but narrow, and composed of mate- rials incapable of making any lasting resistance, would soon be forced through by the river, thus forming another channel, and pursuing its course through the swamps. Here meeting with another obstruction of the same kind to check the current, it would then take another course, and by acting upon the opposite side of its former banks, would eventually find another passage through it, and join its former current, having formed an island by the operation. In this way have the banks and princi- pal old islands of this river been formed; and even the island of New Orleans bears evident marks of having but lately been gained from the sea. Although nature, in most of her operations, is slow, yet when we make our remarks at periods of thirty years distant, her progress seems more rapid, Witness the site of the old fort at the Ba- lize, which at the time of its erection was opposite to the pass of the river, but at the present moment 215 we find it nearly two miles above it. You must not, however, understand me to mean, that this fort, like some of the islands in the Mississippi, has marched nearly two miles up the river; but that the mouth of the river, or land on each side, has advanced that distance into the sea, and not only left the fort behind, but has absolutely stolen so much from the borders of the Gulf of Mexico. You will easily perceive how fast accumulations of this kind may take place, when you recollect that a half pint tumbler of river water will, in the short space of two hours, deposit half an inch depth of sediment. And when you are further informed, that immense collections of large trees are brought down by the river, and cover all the shoals about the passes of the Mississippi, as far as the eye can discern, you will be satisfied that these must form so many additional dikes or embankments to entangle others, which soon be come so firmly bedded in the mud, as to bid de- fiance to storms and hurricanes. I cannot take my leave of this subject without quoting a passage which I recollect to have seen in Herodotus. The volume I have not before me. The words may therefore be incorrect. In speaking of the country of Egypt and the Nile, he informs us, “ that in the time of one of their ancient kings, (Menes,) the whole of Egypt, ex- cept the province of Thebes, was one extended marsh, Nor was any part ºf that large district 216 situated beyond the Lake (Moeris) at that time to be seen. This distance between the Lake and the sea was reckoned to be seven day’s journey.” Had Herodotus lived at this time, and described this country at so early a period, he could not, in my opinion, have used language which would convey a more correct idea of its situation than that just quoted. A change of the proper names will make it read thus: “ That in the time of their ancient kings, the whole of Louisiana, except the Upper Province, was one extended marsh. Nor was any part of all that large district situated be- yond the Bayou Manchac at that time to be seen. This distance between the Bayou and the sea was reckoned to be seven days journey.” The inhabitants of Louisiana, previous to the cession of the province to the United States, were chiefly composed of French and their descendants. At present nearly one fourth may be considered as Americans. The whole population may be estimated at about fifty-two thousand, of which sixteen thousand may be deducted as the number of slaves. This small number of inhabitants is dispersed in a few settlements over a tract of four- teen hundred miles, and excepting the lower three hundred miles, which contain seven eighths of the whole number, are separated by pathless wilder- nesses, and generally have no communication with each other, except that afforded by the trading boats. 217 The upper settlements of St. Louis, Carondelet, St. Genevieve, and New Bourbon, are composed of French, and since the cession a few Americans have settled at St. Louis and St. Genevieve. The Mines are mostly settled by Americans, with a few French. Cape Girardeau, near the river, con- sists mostly of Americans; but at a little distance back are some considerable German settlements; at New Madrid, French and Americans; at Little Prairie, French and Canadians; at Chickasaw Bluffs, Americans; at Walnut Hills, French and Americans; at Natchez, mostly Americans, and a few French and Spaniards; at Point Coupee, French and Arcadians; at Baton Rouge, mostly Americans, with a few French and Spaniards. This last place is not within Louisiana, but belongs to West Florida. The settlements immediately below Baton Rouge consist of emigrants from Nova Scotia, and their descendants. The next are two German settlements, intermixed with a few French. The Atacapas and Opelousas settlements west of New-Orleans, consist of French, German, and Americans. The city of New Orleans con- sists of French, about one fourth Americans, and foreigners; Terre aux Boeufs, Spanish and a few French: the remainder of the island and opposite shore of the river, generally French. You will perhaps expect me to say something before I close, respecting the various tribes of In- dians who inhabit the Louisiana country. The little information I have collected respecting them ºf Ole II* E tº 213 having been obtained chiefly from hunters and traders, I will not vouch for its correctness. The first tribe of Indians I have noted is the Mandane nation, who reside up the Missouri, about fifteen hundred miles above the Mississippi. This is one of the most powerful tribes on the river, consisting at present of about seven hun- dred warriors. Nearly two hundred miles below these are situated the Aricaras tribe, who have about the same number of warriors. These two nations are generally said tº be in alliance with each other, and always at war with the Sioux, who inhabit the north side of the Missouri, and commit depredations throughout the whole coun- try down to the Mississippi. The Sioux are a powerful and warlike tribe, consisting of about eleven hundred warriors. About two hundred and fifty miles below the Aricaras are settled the Pan- cas tribe, consisting of two hundred and fifty war- riors; and one hundred and fifty miles lower the Mahas tribe of two hundred warriors. These two nations are connected, and probably are descended from the same stock, as it is said they speak the same language. About six hundred miles from the mouth of the Missouri is the river Platte or Panis, the lower part of which is inhabited by the Otos tribe, who have about two hundred warriors. Towards the head waters of this river are found the Panistribe, whose towns extend to the waters of the Red River. This tribe can muster seven hundred warriors, and are said to be generally at war with the Spaniards. About three hundred 219 miles above the mouth of the Missouri are situated the Kanzas tribe, chiefly settled along a river of the same name. Their strength consists in about two hundred and fifty warriors, and they are a daring and warlike little band, who are always in alliance with the Great Osage. One hundred and twenty-five miles below the Kanzas is the Osage River, whose borders are inhabited by a powerful and warlike tribe of the same name. This tribe, whose strength may be rated at about one thout sand warriors, are always at war with the Shawa- nese and Delawares, who are settled in the vicinity of the Mines, of Cape Girardeau, and of the mouth of the Ohio. - - Although there may be other tribes residing on the waters of the Missouri, yet the above contains all that I have been enabled to collect. The fol. lowing are those found on the Mississippi above the Missouri. Two hundred and thirty miles above the mouth of the Missouri, the river De Moine falls into the Mississippi from the west side. The banks of this stream are inhabited by the Ayoas tribe, who have emigrated from the Missouri. Their strength is rated at one hundred warriors. About six hundred miles higher are situated the Sacs and Renard tribes, the former consisting of about three hundred warriors, and the latter of about two hundred and fifty. No doubt there are other tribes both above and below these last men. tioned; yet as my information extends no further in that direction, I shall proceed with those below the Missouri River. 220 At St. Genevieve are settled the small remains of a once respectable tribe called the Piorias. Their whole number at present amounts to no more than forty-two souls. These are in friendship with the shawanese and Delawares. At Kaskaskias are Hikewise found another small remnant of the once numerous and powerful tribe of the same name, who, previous to the American war, were rated at one thousand warriors; but wars, rum, and dis- eases, have almost wholly extirpated the race. The Shawanese and Delawares, who are cousins, have several towns on the western bank of the Mississippi, in the vicinity of Cape Girardeau. Their whole force consists of about one hundred and thirty warriors. They are always at war with the Osage nation, of whom they stand in great fear. - - The Osark or Arkansas tribe are settled on the borders of the Arkansas and white River. They seem to be quiet and peaceable. Their whole num- ber is rated at eight hundred souls. Large parties of Chickasaw, Choctaw, Cherokee, and a few of the ancient tribe of the Natchez, have lately in- corporated themselves with the Osark tribe. There are considerable numbers of Indians set- tled along the Red River, the names of whose tribes I never heard before. The following is all the information I have been able to obtain re- specting them. - - Near Avoyellos are found a small tribe called the Belones, consisting of no more than one hun- dred souls. The Beloxas are another small tribe 221 on the waters of the same river, and are said to consist of about four hundred souls. The Cado- quies are situated above Natchitoches. They are more numerous, and rated at about four hundred families, and said to be an active enterprising na- tion. The Conchtos are situated near the Sabine River, and consist of about one hundred families. The Choctaws, who have emigrated from the east of the Mississippi, and settled on the Red and Washita Rivers, are estimated at five hundred fa- milies. The Tunicas, a remnant of a peaceable nation on the Mississippi, have twenty families. The Alibamas have a small town near Manchac, of about thirty families. The Beloxas, who have already been mentioned, have another small town on Crocodile River, west of New Orleans, con- taining fifteen families. And lastly the Chitte- maches and Atacapas, amounting in the whole to about fifty families, are dispersed about the same neighbourhood. Gulf of Mexico, May 16. HAVING at length gone through with my de- scription of the Mississippi River and country, I shall be at leisure to note what trifling occurrences we may meet with on our voyage to the north. At present we are in sight of the Havanna; and during the whole of yesterday we ran down along the coast of Cuba so near that we could distin- guish the gulls upon the shore. - The Island of Cuba is the largest of all the West India Islands; being not less than eight hundred miles in length, and nearly one hundred 222 in breadth. The land is high, and from the sea has the appearance of being rough and moun- tainous, yet we frequently could discover what appeared to be gentle and extensive glades. The Havanna is reckoned to be about five hundred and twenty miles from the mouth of the Mississippi, across the Gulf of Mexico. - May 19, YESTERDAY evening we saw a brig far to leeward, apparently standing in for Pensacola Bay; and at sunset we lost sight of the island of Cuba. The next morning we discovered two sail on our weather bow, one of which was very large, and appeared to be coming down before the wind. As the air was light and baffling, it was not until one o'clock at noon that we were enabled, even with the help of our glasses, to discover, that she was a large English frigate, called Le Guerrier, come manded by Captain Skene. The first lieutenant soon came on board, and after an examination of our papers, informed us, that their ship was a French built frigate, captured the preceding sum- mer, and that they were ninety-two days from England, and brought out the Duke of Kent, who had been appointed Governor of Jamaica. They had received a file of New-York papers from some vessel they had boarded, which they readily ex- changed for another file of New Orleans. As we had a good stock of poultry on board, and were politely asked to sell them a few pair, we autho- rized the captain to make them a present of a 4. - 223 dozen. While lying to, a full band with Turkish music, on board of the frigate, struck up “God save the king,” and “Rule Britannia;” and before we parted we were likewise complimented with “Yankee Doodle.” Gulf of Florida, May 22. LAST evening we made the Double Head Shot Keys, where we discovered two wreckers lying at anchor, waiting for business; but as we had none for them, we started a point or two of sheet, and sped our way through the Gulf of Flo- rida. This day, after we had cleared the last of the Bahama Keys, we discovered a large vessel about fifteen or eighteen miles astern, which threw out constant signals to speak with us; but as we had a fair wind, and there had been no bad wea- ther to give us any reason to suspect she was in distress, it was determined in a general council not to lose any time, but to improve the present opportunity. Our captain judged her to be the ship C–, which sailed from New Orleans about ten days before we did. - Off Cape Hatteras, May 27. NOTHING has occurred since my last memo- randum, except a trifling thunder-gust, which, as it came from the South, did not last long enough, or blow quite hard enough, to keep pace with my impatience to be waited to the north. - 224 - Off Little Egg Harbour, May 31. STILL barren of incident: for although at that point which distinguishes the vessels sailing for and out of the ports of New York and Philadel- phia, yet we saw nothing, as the embargo has left nothing to be seen. - Off Sandy Hook, June 4. HAIL to the Highlands of Neversink, and to my friends still living under its brows ' And hail to yon smoky columns to the north, who in play- ful circles are travelling to the skies! Ye rise from the cradle of my birth, the storehouse of my friends; and in imagination can I already trace the curling volume as it ascends from their respected roofs. And hail, thou the friend and companion of my youth, all hail! Yet a little while, and we meet once more to enjoy a renewal of those happy hours, which have so often witnessed our social intercourse. May the fiendly breeze which now gently swells our sails, and drives us through the tide, waſ my impatient wishes to your ear, and whisper “ Your friend is astern,” and “ere to- morrow's flood shall pass your castle's walls, you may enfold him in your friendly arms.” Yours, FINIS Q UNIVERSITY or MICHIGAN GENERAL LIBRARY