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º plan NSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SELECTION, PREPARATION AND
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KITCHEN GARDEN.
3 with PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTI.
- VATION AND MANAGEMENT OF SOME
OF THE MOST USEFUL
CULINARY VEGETABLES.
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424 BROADWAY, NEw-York.
1843.
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GARDENER'S MANT$5AL,
PLAIN INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SELECTION, PREPARATION, AND
MANAGEMENT OF A
KITCHEN GARDEN.
WITH PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTI.
v.ATION AND MANAGEMENT OF SOME
OF THE MOST USEFUL
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To Garde ners's
AND
DEALERS IN GARDEN SEEDS.
The design of this little Manual is to enable our trading customers;
while furnishing their assortment of Garden Seeds, to afford instruc.
tions, at a trifling expense, to such of their customers as may wish to"
obtain some practical information relative to the raising and manage-
ment of those valuable kitchen vegetables, which are considered the
most useful and important in a family. 0.
Having had many years’ experience in raising seeds and yegetables,
and in proving the quality of seeds,-and we are not ignorant of the
pomplaints which are often made of bad seeds,--we are fully convinced
that good seeds are sometimes condemned for want of a fair trial, and
especially for the want of a seasonable and right management in pre-
paring the ground and putting in the seed. We know full well the loss
and perplexity of sowing poor seeds, and the reasonable anxiety of
those who purchase for sale, to procure such seeds as will satisfy their
customers : and yet the venders are sometimes blamed and charged
with imposing on their customers, in consequence of the failure of
their seeds, when the fault is altogether owing to the want of proper
management in the gardeners. We have therefore endeavored to fur-
mish a small and convenient Manual, which we trust will prove benefi-
ºcial to all who deal in Garden seeds, and more especially to those who
have had but little experience in cultivating a kitchcm garden, by fur-
nishing such plain and practical directions as are best calculated to en-
SU. Tê SUICC&SS. *
Our original stock of Garden seeds have been carefully selected, with
a view to obtain those that are most useful, from the numerous varie-
ties cultivated in the country, and those we offer for sale are raised un-
der our own immediate care and direction, excepting a few kinds which
cannot be raised to perfection in this climate ; also when we have a
failure in some particular kinds of seed, (which sometimes happens,)
in order to supply the deficiency, and accommodate our customers, we
purchase of credible Seeds-men, and test their vitality before offering
them for sale—we can therefore recommend them to be pure and gen-
Ullſ] 0,
Note.—The time for planting and sowing seeds, as directed in the
following pages, is calculated as a medium for the vicinity of Albany,
or about 42 deg. N. Latitude, and by observing the different degrees of
heat and cold throughout the country, the proper time for putting in
seed will be found to vary from 30 to 60 days or more, being earlier to
‘the south and later to the north—therefore it becomes necessary for the
gardener to notice the climate, season, situation of the soil, &c., to
epply these directions to profit,
T N T R O DU CT I O N. W
Y-Tº-Tº-Tº-Tº-y vº-wr ºr *w-w ºr-º-ºrmºr-wºmy
'Many books have been written upon the subject of gardening,
..and ingenious authors have suggested various means for improving
..and embellishing them, that the common classes, those to whom a
garden is of the most real value, cannot hope to attain for several
ages, if ever. lº
The manners of cultivation recommended by some, are expen-
sive in a corresponding degree, well calculated for lords and nobles,
who can afford a tenant to every square acre, but quite impracti.
cable by those who have to tend their own gardens and conduct a
farm, or some mechanical profession besides, which is the case
with the majority of garden-holders in this country: and it is such
that this little sketch is designed to benefit. These pages conthin
no suggestion or instruction, but what may be made pragical to
almost every farmer in the United States.
The present condition of the majority of gardens in this country,
is susceptible of much improvement, which the spirit of the age,
and the progressive improvements in agriculture, loudly demand.---
Many are unfavorably situated, and not large enough; many are
of ill shape, and not well laid out internally. Very many are de-
ficient in the variety of vegetables cultivated; and a majority not
properly prepared before stocking with seeds and plants, and but
poorly cultivated when stocked. These things should not be; the
garden is said to be an index of the owners mind. If this be true,
many who otherwise might be acquitted, must be judged to possess
-minds susceptible of much improvement in order, usefulness, and
beauty. Buta, claim, as strong perhaps, as any that may be urged
º iv
'for the improvement of the kitchen garden, is its usefulness, and
the superiority of a well cultivated garden, over the poor neglected
patch. That a garden is very necessary and useful, almost every
body admits, by trying to have something of the kind; but that a
well prepared and a well cultivated one, is as much superior to a
neglected one, as it really is, doubtless many who love idleness,
even better than they love themselves, will be slow to admit; but
experience has proved that the crop will be improved by good culti-
vation, both in quantity and quality, more than in proportion'to the
additional expense incurred, till perfection is attained, where, of
course, improvement must stop.
It has been the aim, in this work, to be brief and comprehensive,
to compress much into little space; therefore such general direc=
tions as apply to many or all varieties of vegetables, are given in
chapters by themselves, which prevents the necessity of repeating
them under every several vegetable, to which they may apply. By
reading the book through, it is believed, all the information neces"
'sary for the management of a Kitchen Garden, and cultivation of
the most useful culinary vegetables may be obtained.
ºf he fºublish ers.
JNew Lebanon, April 20, 1843.

*Nº (GARD)\}\tº\R^S MARTUAE,
CHA PTE R. I.
DIRECTIONS FOR THE SELECTION OF A GARDEN SPOT
AND IMPLEMENTS,
As some of our readers may not, as yet, have selected a gardea
spot, nor obtained the implements requisite for prosecuting the bu-
siness of gardening, a few remarks upon the situation, soil, size,
and implements necessary, may not be improper.
1. Situalion.—In choosing a site for a garden, a spot of even
land, slightly inclining to the south or east, and having the full be-
nefit of the sun, is to be preferred. It should be situated near the
:* and neatly enclosed with a high wall, or a tight board
€I]Ces
2. Soil.—Deep, dry, light, and rich, are the essential requisites
of a good garden soil; and if not so naturally, it should be made so
by art. If wet, draining should be resorted to ; if too shalluw, deep
ploughing; if poor, manuring; if stony, they should be got off:—
and thus should every impediment and obstruction to a good sweet
isoil, be reversed or removed, by industry and art.
3. Size.—The size of a garden depends upon the number to be
supplied from it, and the kinds of vegetables intended to be raised in
it. For a family of six persons, one quarter of an acre is sufficient
for most of the kinds raised from seeds commonly retailed at the
country stores. But if desirable to have fruit trees, shrubs, straw-
berry beds, early potatoes, &c., enclosed within the same fence that
encloses the garden, it must be made larger, in proportion to the
quantity wanted.
The shape of the garden should be either square or oblong, both
for convenience and looks.
4. Implements.-These are a plough, harrow, rake, hoes, spade,
shovel, dung-fork, watering pot, transplanting-trowel, a long and
‘strong line, or cord, and a wooden roller 18 inches in diameter and
4 feet long. Perhaps bean poles, pea brush, a quantity of garden
stakes and twine, might with propriety be added to the list. These
are generally sufficient, if the directions under the article Soil,
‘have been previously and properly attended to, although we are
aware that others will at times be wanted, as the crow-bar in set-
ting bean poles, the pruning knife, shears, or sickle in trimming
and gathering the crops at times, &c., &c.
(5
CHAPTE R II.
OF PREPARING THE GROUND, AND PUTTING IN CROPS.-
Considering the garden as fenced, drained, and cleared of stones,.
if neccessary,the next consideration is the preparation of the ground
for the reception of seeds and plants. As gardening should not be
undertaken on turf land just broken up, we shall consider the gar-
den free from turf, and considerably ameliorated, as it should be,
by a crop of potatoes, or other roots, previously to using it for the
rarer kinds of vegetables. In this state, let it be manured, in quan--
tity and quality, according to the previous richness of the soil.--
And here let it be stated, once for all, that all culinary vegetables
do best upon a good rich soil; therefore let your land, if not natun
Tally quite rich, be plentifully manured; and even if the land be
quite fertile, if it has been used much, a slight manuring will be bet
'neficial Poor land should be manured at the rate of 40 ox cart
loads per acre ; on good land less will suffice.
The best manure for a garden is a compost, of one part mineral
substances, as ashes, lime, sand or clay, (as the soil may require,)
'salt, &c.; five parts vegetable matter, as weeds, straw, leaves,
'roots and stalks of plants, and tun bark or sawdust to make the soil
light, if necessary : and six parts of animal excrement, These
should be collected in the course of the season, and mixed well to-
gether, to cause them to ferment. In the fall, this compost should
be spread evenly upon the garden, and ploughed in, that it may be
ready for action as soon as the state of the ground will allow, in
the Spring, without having to wait for an operation that may much
better be performed in the Fall.
Considering the garden as having been well manured in the Fall,
or early in the Spring, the next thing is to plough it, which should
not be done till quite dry; for ploughing it when wet in the Spring,
will cause it to be much more lumpy, and harder through the whole
season, than it would be if suffered to get thoroughly, dry before
ploughing. Deep ploughing is the only kind wanted in preparing
a garden, the deeper the better in most soils. Next comes the har-
row ; this should do its work faithfully, when a second and last
ploughing, dividing the garden into beds, should be resorted to.--
To effect this, strike a furrow through the middle of the spot where
you wish to have your bed, go back on the other side close by the
furrow just made, turning the earth against that thrown out from
the first furrow, and so continue going round your bed, (which is
thus begun,) and turning the earth towards the centre, till it is as
wide as desirable; then proceed to make the others in the same
way, till the garden is all made into beds or plats, in size and width:
*uited to the kinds and quantities of vegetables to be grown on
7 Q
them. This plan of ploughing and forming beds, will leave little
hollows or ditches between them, which should be kept open to
drain off the superabundant water in wet weather.
The next thing is to rake the beds; which, on those designed
for fine seeds or those to be sown in drills, should be thoroughly and
finely done. On those designed for planting beans, squashes, &c.,
you need not be so particular.
Sowing.—Stretch a line from end to end, over your bed, for a
guide in drilling, then with the corner of your hoe, a pointed stick,
or an instrument made for the purpose, drill shallow furrows across
the bed from north to south, in depth and distance apart, accommo-
dated to the kinds of seeds you wish to sow, according to directions
given hereafter, under the names of the respective plants.
* Fall Sowing.—Some seeds may be sown in the Fall, with suc-
cess; and the plants will be up considerable earlier next Spring, in
consequence. But as Fall sowing is attended with considerable
risk, and extra labor, it should be generally avoided, except for such
seeds as vegetate very slowly, and will be greatly forwarded by the
action of the frost, without the risk of losing the seed by premature
vegetation. Perhaps Asparagus, and Sea Kale, are thé only kinds.
of this description, in our catalogue. For Fall sowing, the ground
should be prepared as directed for Spring sowing, and the various
seeds put in just so lale as that they will not sprout before the Win-
ter sets in, for sprouting will spoil them. As soon as the frost has
fairly closed the ground, the beds should be covered a foot deep
with litter, straw, or boughs of ever-green, to prevent the frost from
penetrating too deeply; these should be removed early in the
Spring, and you will have the plants quickly up.
Ridging.—Some gardeners sow and plant many kinds of seeds
upon ridges. For some seeds, especially in low flat land, this is a
good practice. Have your ground well prepared, as directed for
the garden, throw two furrows together with a large plough, for
one ridge, level and pulverize with a rake, and it is prepared for
sowing or planting.
Soaking Seeds.--In a very dry season, or when you happen to
be very late in stocking your garden. soaking the seed a few hours,
in luke-warm water, will be beneficial to some kinds; but general-
dy, if sown in proper season, all good seeds will germinate quite as
wéll without soaking, and to seeds, of the cabbage kind, it is a posi-
tive injury.
lanting.—This term applies to putting seeds in bunches or
hills, the distance between which must be accommodated to the
kind of vegetable to be raised. Stretch the line as directed for
sowing, but instead of drilling make hills, or slight elevations of the
soil, a foot in diameter and three inches high, with a southern in-
\ S
climation. In a dry season, the earth should always be pressed up-
n the top of the seeds. On level beds, it may be done with a rol-
er; on seeds planted in hills, with the back of the hoe.
Transplanting.—This is an important part of the gardeners busi-
ºness, and to perform it successfully is very desirable.
A prevalent, but erroneous opinion concerning transplanting is,
that it should be done just before a shower, in order to succeed
well; but experience inas shown that a day or two after, when the
ground has become dry enough to work again, in the evening, is a
preferable time, and perhaps, with the exception of cloudy weather,
is the best that can be selected. The ground should be prepared as
-directed for sowing, the plants should be taken up with as much
dirt as possible adhering to them, which will be promoted by wa-
tering plentifully, before taking them up. A hole deep enough for
the roots to enter at full length, should be made, the plants set up-
right, and fine fresh earth gently pressed against the roots on all
.sides. Tender plants will sometimes need watering and shading a
day or two after transplanting. [.
CIH. A. P. T. E. R. H. J. I.
OF CULTIVATION.
Hoeing, is usually the first act of cultivation in the garden
which should be performed as soon as the plants are fairly up, and
continued as often as neccessary, for destroying weeds or nourish-
ing the plants through the season, with punctuality and faithful-
TICSS,
There are three manners of hoeing necessary to be made use of
in the garden, which may be distinguished by the names of 1st.
flat hoeing, 2nd, digging, and 3d., hilling. The first is made use
of merely to kill the weeds; the second to promote the growth of
the plants, by mellowing the soil, and the third to support and nou-
rish some plants in their more advanced stages, by drawing the earth
up around their stems, or stalks.
Weeding should he early performed, and continued with perseve-
ring faithfulness, as often as necessary, through the season.
Thinning may be performed at twice, the first time as soon as
the plants are fairly in sight, the second after they are large enough
to show which will make thrifty plants. As the quality of the crop,
as well as the quantity, frequently depends very much upon this
branch of cultivation, it is important that it be seasonably and faith-
fully performed. Leaving plants too thick is a prevalent error, and
:0ne to which gardeners are very liable.
Ploughing.—Where there is room for a single horse plough, or
9
horseſhoe, to run between the rows, without injury, it should be
improved, as it will save much time and labor, and be highly ben-
efical to the plants. l
Watering.—Some gardoners spend much useless labor ins prink-
ling water over and around their plants. When the ground is very
dry, at the time you wish to transplant, watering the ground where
you intend to set the plants, a day or two beforehand, may be bene-
ficial : watering hot beds is also necessary and indispensable. But
to plants in open ground, that have good roots, watering in the
customary way, with a hand watering pot, is of but little use. If
you have a stream of running water at your command, which can
be turned upon your garden, something more effectual may be per-
formed. But in default of this, digging and stirring the soil should
be resorted to, which will cause the moisture below the surface,
(the life and dependance ºf plants in a dry time,) to rise freely.
Bleaching.—This is an operation for whitening the leaves of
some salad vegetables. With some, it is performed by tying up
the outside leaves, so as to exclude the light from those within ;-
‘with others, by hilling them up with earth, as they advance in
growth.
CHAP TE R iv.
DiRECTIONS For MAKING AND MANAGING A HoT-BED.
Such vegetables as are wanted for early use, or such as re-
Quire the whole season to bring them to maturity, may be brought
forward nearly a month earlier, by being sown early in a hot-bed,
and transplanted in the open ground, when the weather has become
mild and the soil prepared for vegetation. The hot-bed should al-
ways be located on the south side of a building, or a high wall.—
The frame to receive the sashes should be four feet wide, and as
long as you desire, the inclination to the south will be about right
if the back of the frame is 18 inches high to have the front 9 inch-
es. To this frame, let the sashes be nicely fitted, to exclude rats,
mice, and cold weather.
Having prepared the frame, find its dimensions, and mark out
the spot for building the bed 6inches larger every way, than the
frame ; drive down a stake at each corner as a guide in building
the bed. For this, the best material is unfermented horse dung,
with the litter or straw among it, as it usually comes from the sta-
ble. In taking from a heap of this, get the inside as well as the
out, both long and short, and mix them well together. If the lit-
ter'be not in the proportion of one half or more, increase it by add-
ing fresh straw. Take this to the spot where you are to make
your bed, put it on, a forkſul at a time, shaking it well to pieces,
TO
“spreading it evenly, and beating it well down as you proceed, par-
'ticularly the edges. Raise it to the height of 4 feet, then put on
(the frame, and, let it stand till the heat rises.
Now put within the frame, on the top of the dung, 8 inches in
depth, of light, rich soil, then cover all up, and let it stand a week
or more, till the earth'is well warmed, when it may be sown. Make
‘the drills from north to south, and 3 inches apart, in depth accord-
ing to the kind of seeds sown.
From this time the bed must be watched and attended with par-
ticular care. Every morning, as soon as the sun is fairly up, the
'glasses should "be raised a little, to admit fresh air; and in a warm
ay they may be entirely removed. If the glasses are left on, un-
der a hot sun, without the admission of air, more than two hours,
‘the plants will be scalded by the steam thus excited within the bed.
More failures arise in hot-bed culture, from want of air, than from
all other causes combined.
Watering is a very essential part of the hot-bed management; it
should bettlone in'the morning, with a fine sprinkler, and with wa-
ter of the temperature of rain in Summer. The earth should be
often mellowed among the plants, to admit the water freely, and
promote their growth; weeds should be uprooted, and the sugges-
tions concerning thinning, heretofore given, should, of all places, in
the hot-bed, be most punctually attended to ; as a rule, a plant in
the hot-bed should be as distant from another plant, as its top or
longest-shoot is from its own root.
Many regard hot-beds as more expensive than profitable : but this
is an error, they are not expensive property; it is true their man-
ragement is quite particular, and requires you to be thoughtful and
regular ; but this is only promoting a good habit, and if you were
inclined to forgetfulness, would almost justify keeping one ex-
pressly for that purpose. In a large garden a good hot-bed will
more than pay for itself, annually, and in any garden, worthy of
the name, the benefits are double the expense.
C H A P T E R V .
OF INSECTS INJURIOUS TO THE GARDENER,
Cutworms, root-worms, slugs or snails, cabbage-lice, turnip-flies,
and yellow bugs, are the insects that most trouble the kitchen gar-
• demer.
Cut-worm.—This insect commits its depredations in the night;
..and immediately, on the appearance of day light, secretes itself un-
der the dirt, near the plant which it last attacked ; consequently
there it may be found and easily destroyed which perhaps is the
| 11.
host effectual and only sure method of killing them. They prey"
upon Beans, Corn, Peppers, Onions, Radishes, and Cabbage plants,
in their infant state, cutting off the leaves and sometimes the
stems or stalks, }
Root-worm.—These attack the roots of all plants, of the cabbage
kind, those of melons and cucumbers, and are well known to be
especially fond of turnips and radishes. To prevent their depreda-
tions, pour old fermented urine, salt water, or weak lye, directly a-
round the roots, or what is the same in effect, scatter around a lit.
tle salt, or wood ashes. As a preventative, which is ever prefera-
ble to a cure, never put these vegetables on the same ground they
occupied the previous year.
Slugs or shelless snails, may be destroyed by strewing ashes or
quick lime over them.
Cabbage-lice.—These always infest the weakest, poorest plants;
therefore those who have the most good thrifty plants will suffer
least. But as in some instances, extirpation is the only&means of
saving an entire crop from ruin, we would advise always to begin
the work in season; before the lice become so numerous as to ren-
der it an impracticable undertaking.
Plaster, ashes, or quick lime, sprinkled over them in a dewy
morning will check their progress, but will not destroy them, un-
less rubbed in. To effect this, a brush or cloth may be used, un-
folding the leave with one hand and applying the brush with the
other. A decoction of tobacco,administered with a sponge in the
same way, is very effectual ; fermented urine is equally so. .
Turnip-fly or Garden-flea.—This insect attacks plants in their
infant state, feasting upon their tender leaves to the great annoy-
ance of the gardener and destruction of the plants. Melons, Cu-
cumbers, Squashes, Cabbages, and Turnips, are their favorite food.
Covering the plants with chaff, fine shavings, or sawdust, till they
are out of danger, we have found to be the most effectual mode of
preventing their ravages.
When this cannot be afforded, snuff, soot, or sulphur finely pul-
verised, and sprinkled over and under the plants while wet with
dew, is beneficial. But as plants are subject to material injury from
these insects, only while in an infant state, the chief aim should be
to have the land so prepared, seeded, and cultivated, as to give the
º: a vigorous, thrifty growth, which will soon place them, out,
of danger.
;. or striped bugs.-Another enemy of the Cucumber tribe.
Its depredations may be essentially checked by sprinkling the plants
when wet, with a composition of Rye-flour, Ashes and Plaster, have
ing equal quantities of each, thoroughly mixed. Water saturated
with cow-dungr is also said to be a good remedy.

19
To be sure of a crop, as all means of preventing the ravages of
insects may at times fail, it is well to put in plenty of the seed of
such plants as are attacked by them, which with the precautions
heretofore given, to take means for having thrifty plants, is, in
many instances the 'only means of ensuring a crop.
C HAP T E R VI.

A. Gatalogue of Garden Seeds
RAISED AND PUT UP BY THE UNITED SOCIETY OF
SHAKERS, ©
NEW LEBANON, COLUMBIA co., N. Y.

Asparagus, Giant Lettuce, Early Imperial
Bean, Earlº China, (bush) 66 ** Curled
66 * Purple “ 6% * Dutch
# 46 White, 4% * Ice Coss
“ Royal White “ tº 5 Cabbage-head
ºf Clapboard, (pole) * Frankfort. “
* Cranberry “ Melon, Large Water
Beet, Early Scarcity. “ Long Musk
* “ Turnip * Nutmeg “
st Yellow Sugar Nasturtium
* White French do. Onion, White Portugal
* Long Blood * Yellow Dutch
* Mangel Wurtzel * Large Red
Cabbage, Early York Parsley, Curled or Double
º * Sugar Loaf Parsnip, Long White
44 Large Drumhead Peas, Early Washington
{{ Green Savoy {{ * Frame
$6 Red Dutch “ Large Marrowfat
Cauliflower, Early .* Tali Sugar
Carrot, Long Orange Pepper, Squash
* Early Horn } % Sweet
“ . Altringham * Large Bell
Celery, White Pepper Grass, Double
Corn, Early Canada Radish, Short Top Scarlet
“ Sweet or Sugar “ Scarlet Turnip
Cucumber, Early Frame * Long Salmon
$f ** Cluster 4% Black Winter
* . Extra Long * . Large Dutch
4% Long Green Rhubarb
Pgg Plant Saffrony American,


133

Sage, English Squash, Winter Crookneck
Salsify, or Vegetable Oyster * Summer “
Savory, Summer Tomato, Large Red
Sea Kale Turnip, Early Flat J.
Spinage, Roundleaf is Flat Field
Squash, Sweet Potato * Long Tankared
“ Summer Scollop * Ruta Baga
C H A PT E R W II.
PARTICULAR TREATMENT
or THE DIFFERENT v ARIETIEs of culin ARY VEGETABLEs.
Asparagus.—F. Asperge.—S. Esparrago.”—This is a very
delicious esculent vegetable, and easily cultivated, after the first
operation of preparing the ground. It is sown the first year,
and transplanted the second.
First Year.—Sow as soon as the ground can be prepared in
the Spring, in drills 18 inches apart, and 2 inches deep. It is
three or four weeks in coming up, and should therefore be
sown on land free from the seed of weeds, lest the weeds come
up first, greatly to the injury of the young plants. Thin to 8
inches distance between the plants in the row.
Second Year.—Prepare your bed by working a bountiful sup-
ply of strong manure into the ground, to the depth of 18 inches.
Level the top of the bed, stretch your line, and with a hoe, sho-
vel, or plough, mark out drills 6 inches deep, and 2 feet apart.
In these drills, or rather furrows, set the asparagus roots of last
years’ growth, 20 inches asunder; these roots will spread, and
in a few years, asparagus will shoot up in every part of the bed.
When the setting out is completed, level the top of the bed
and let it grow up. Every succeeding Spring the stalks should
be cut up, and hauled off or burned on the ground. The buds
or young shoots, which is the part used, will be fit for cutting
the third year; they should be cut sparingly the first year, but
thereafter, the cutting may be continued until the first of July,

when a coat of dung should be spread on and turned under, and
the asparagus suffered to run up to seed.
Kidney Beans.—F. Feve.—S. Haba.--These are delicate
plants, and the seed should not be hurried into the ground till
it is well dried and warmed by the sun. The first of May is
* The French and Spanish names of hte various vegetables are ad.
ded to our common English name, and marked with the letters F and
S., for the information of foreigners who purchase our seeds,
14.

soon enough in this lattitude. (Albany.) The dwarf or bush
beans may be sown ifi drills, 20 inches apart, 2 inches deep, and
6 inches apart in the row,
The Running or Pole Beans should be planted in hills, three
and a half feet distant each way. We prefer setting the poles
before planting. For this purpose we stretch a line, and set
the poles by it; then dig and loosen the earth, and drop five or
six beans in a circle round the pole, about 3 inches from it, and
cover with mellow dirt one inch or one and a half in depth. —
When the plants are well up, stir the earth around them, and
pull out the weakest plants, leaving three to each hill. This
should be done when they are perfectly dry; for beans never
should be hoed when wet, nor when any dew is on them.
The green pods of beans may be kept and preserved fresh by
laying them down in a jar or tub, with a layer of salt between
each layer of beans.
ſº
º
Beet.--F. Betterave.—S. Beterraga-Sow very early, in drills
18 inches apart, and 1 deep. Thin the first time to 4 inches, the
last to 8.
Cabbage.—F. Chou."—S. Col.-For an early crop, a quan-
tity may be sown in the hot-bed the 10th of April, and trans-
planted out the 10th of May, which will be the proper time for
sowing the general crop. Sow in small beds, each kind by it-
self; sow early and late at the same time, thereby to ensure a
constant succession of heads; the early furnishing a supply for
Fall use, and the late holding out even till the ensuing Spring.
As soon as fairly up, thin to 4 inches distance, each way; let
them stand here till they have 6 leaves, then transplant.
The early kinds, being small, will do at 2 feet apart each way,
the late large kinds should have three and a half or four feet.—
§. g or ploughing between them occasionally, will be highly
eneficial,

Cauliflower.—F. Chouffeur.—S. Coliflor—At the south they
are sown in hot-beds in the Fall, and protected through the Win-
ter; but in this climate, they should be sown in the hot-bed
early in the Spring. In about three weeks they should be
transplanted into a bed of lower temperature, and by the middle
of May, again transplanted into the garden.
Carrot.—F. Carotte.—S. Zanahoria.-Sow the same as beets,
and thin to 4 inches.
º 15
Celery.—F. Celeri...—S. Apio.—This is an excellent salad ve.
getable, and is prepared for the table by bleaching. It should
be sown in the hot-bed by the 10th of April. It vegetates slow-
ly, but surely; if your seed is good, and properly put in and at-
tended. When the plants are six inches high, they should be
taken from the hot-bed and set into mellow ground, 4 inches
distant each way, to remain till your early peas, or some other
early beds are cleared off, and then put into trenches upon the
same ground. Lay out your trenches about 18 inches wide, alm
lowing six feet space between each trench; plough or spade out
the earth from the trenches to the depth of sixteen or eighteen
inches, if the depth of soil will admit; put about three inches of
very rotten manure into the trench : then throw in upon this
manure about five inches of the best soil; mix and stir the ma-.
nure and soil well together; then set your plants by a line in
the centre of the trench, leaving a space of six or eight inches
between them. Puſi off all the suckers or side shoots before
setting.
Wiśn they have attained the height of ten inches, you may
commence earthing them up ; but never do it while the plants
are wet. In performing this, care should be taken to gather all
the leaves up with the hand while drawing the earth up equally
on each side of the row, being careful to leave the hearts of the
plants open. Repeat the earthing once a week or oftener, till
about the last week in October. From this time it will not grow
much, but it is better to let it stand out till the ground is about to
be locked up by frost, then dig it and pack it away in the cellar.
It will keep till May.

Corn.—F. Mais.-S. Maiz.—The Early Canada is the earli-
est kind of corn we raise, and is preferred only for being several
weeks earlier than the common field corn. The Sweet or Sugar
Corn is best for cooking in its green state, as it remains much
longer in the milk, and is richer and sweeter than any other kind.
It is rather later than the common field corn, and is therefore fit
for the table when the field corn has become too hard. sº
This corn may be preserved for winter use, by parboiling it when
green, and cutting it from the cob and drying it in the sun. It then
affords a wholesome and agreeable dish when cooked like bean por-
ridge, or what is called succotash.
Plant the 20th of May, in hills.4 feet distant each way. Culti-
vate the same as other corn, by ploughing, hilling, &c.
*re-ºr-
Cucumber.—F. Concomber—S. Cohambro.—The 20th of May
I (5
is soon enough to plant cucumbers here. Hills to be 4 feet distant
each way. One plant is enough for a hill, ultimately; but to
make provision for insects, plenty of seed should be put in, and the
plants afterwards thinned out.
Egg Plant.—F. Malongene.—S. Sechugar.—Sow the seeds in
March, in a hot bed, and plant them out towards the latter part of
May, in a rich, warm piece of ground, in rows 3 feet apart, and at
the distance of two feet in the rows. They bear their fruit when
about a foot high, which if rightly prepared, is by many esteemed
equal to eggs. Some are very fond of them when sliced and fried
with ham. P
Lettuce.—F. Laitue.—S. Lachuga.-Sow as early as possible in
the Spring, and at intervals through the season, in drills 1 foot a-
part and an inch deep. The early kinds need but little thinning;
but head Lettuce should stand 8 or 10 inches apart, or they will
have but inferior heads, and if very thick, nonſe at all.
47
Melon.—F. and S. the same.—Musk melons require the same
treatment as cucumbers. Watermelons should be planted further
apart. A shovel full of ashes applied to each hill and mixed with
the soil is beneficial.
Nasturtium.—F. Capucine.—S. Nasturcio-This is an annual
plant, a native of Peru, and is much cultivated for the berries, which
if gathered while green and pickled in vinegar, make a good substi-
tute for capers. Sow as early as the season will admit, in drills an
inch deep. The plants should be supported from the ground by
bushy sticks, or otherwise, in order to have them do well and pro-
duce a plentiful crop of good fruit.
Onion.—F. Oignon.—S. Cebolla.—Sow early in drills, 16 inches
apart and half an inch deep. Thin to 4 or 6 inches.
The onions will be ripe in September. When the tops are suffi-
ciently dry, pull the onions, and let them lie a few days in the sun
to dry; then gather them up and house them. f
JParsley.—F. Persil.—S. Peregil.—A salutary pot herb. Culti-
vate the same as early Lettuce.
d
Parsnip.–F. Panais.—S. Pastinaca.-Cultivate as Carrots.
In November dig enough for winter use, and put in the cellar; let
the rest stand in the ground till spring.
II 7
Peas.—F. Pois.—S. Guisante.—The late and tall kinds should
be sown in double drills 4 or 5 feet apart, and supported with brush.
The early kinds may be sown on ridges at 3 feet distance and a foot
high. This will form trenches which will carry off the water and
should be kept open at the lower end. When the peas are off, every
alternate trench may be prepared for celery.
If your seed peas contain bugs, we would recommend to scald
them by putting them into a tub or pail, and pouring in boiling water
enough to cover them , and stirring them briskly about a minute;
then pour off the water and add a little cold water to them and sow
them soon. This will destroy the bugs without injuring the peas.
Pepper.—F. Piment.—S. Pimiento.—These should be sown in
the hot bed in April, and transplanted out the first of June, 2 feet
distant each way.
Pepper grass, or Curled Öress—F. Cresson.—s. Berros.-An
agreeable salad, cultivate as early Lettuce.
º
Radish.-F. Rave.—S. Nabe.—Sow and cultivate the same as
onions. As they soon become too old for the table, they should be
sown once a fortnight, in order to have a supply through the sea-
§One
Rhubarb, or Pie Plant.—Rheum Undulatum.—Sow the first year
very early in drills, 2 feet apart and an inch in depth. Thin to
10 inches. The second year transplant them out 4 feet distant
each way. Shade them from the hot sun, both the first and second
year, till they gain good roots. The seed stalks should not be suf-
fered to grow. The stalks or stems of the leaves, cut up and pre-
pared, are as good for pies as currants or goose berries, and six,
weeks earlier. The roots are used in medicine.
Saffron.—F. Saffran.-S. Azafran.-A medicinal herb: the flow.
ers are the part used. Sow in double drills 3 feet apart; thin to
6 inches.
Sage.—F. Sauge.-S. Salvia.-Sow in drills 2 feet apart, and
thin to 8 or 10 inches in the row. It is a perennial ; but as young
plants produce the best leaves, it should be resown once in 2 years.
Salsify or Vegetable oyster.—F. Salsifts.-S. Salsift.—This vege-
table, in appearance, resembles a small parsnip; it is raised annu-
f. S
ally from the seed, and may be cultivated in the same manner 818
parsnips or carrots, and is as easily raised. k
It is a vegetable highly esteemed by those best acquainted with
it. It is very hardy, and may stand in the ground through the win-
ter, if you wish. '• 4)
*
Savory Summer.—F. Sariette de l'ete.—Sow in shallow drills one
foot apart in April or May, Summer Savory tea is a good remedy
for the nervous head ache, drink it hot just before going to bed.
*=
Sea Kale.—F. Choud’Econsse:-This is a capital article ; the
cultivation and use are the same as those of Asparagus. Break
the shells before sowing. º
Squash.-F. Giraumon.---.S. Especie de la Calabaza.--Squashes
require to be treated much after the manner of melons and cucum-
bers. The Sweet Potato Squash and Winter Crook-neck, as they
produce running vines, require to be planted in hills at the distance
of six or eight feet. The Summer Crook-neck and the Summer-Scol-
$op, being what are called bush Squashes, as they have no running
vines, may be planted in hills about four feet apart each way.
Tomato or Love Apple.--F. Tomate.—S. Tomatera.--This is
a very healthy vegetable, and a great favorite when we become
accustomed to it, though generally not very palatable at first. They
should be sown in the hot-bed in April, and when the ground be-
comes warm, and the danger from frost is over, they may be trans-
planted out, 4 or 5 feet distant each yay. The fruit will ripen
better if the vines are supported by a trellis, ºr something similarr
to elevate them from the ground a little.
Turnip.–F. Navet—s. Nabo.—Sow and cultivate the same
as Onions, in the Garden. See Field Culture, next chapter.
CHAP TER VIII.
FIELD CULTURE OF GARDEN VEGETABLES,
Beets, Carrots. Parsnips, Rutabaga Turnips, Flat Turnips, and
peas, are sometimes raised in the field for cattle or swine. For the
first four, a spot occupied with potatoes the previous year, should
be chosen; this should be prepared as directed for preparing the
garden ; and for Carrots and Parsnips, the cultivation is the same
as in the garden; but Beets and Rutabagas should be sown of
º
I9
islightly elevated ridges, at the distance of three feet, to admit of
ploughing between them. Rutabagas should be sown about the
10th of June. (ſ \
For Flat Turnips and Peas, a spot of turf land should be broken
up in the Fall. The next season, before sowing, it should be boun-
tifully manured, and thoroughly ploughed and harrowed; sow the
seed broadcast, and harrow it in. Peas should be sown in April
or May, and much thicker than many farmers sow them. Tur-
nips for Winter use, should be sown about the middle or last of
July, with a sparing hand.
Eight pounds of beet seed are sufficient to sow an acre, as above
directed ; 4 lbs of Carrot or Parsnip seed; 2 lbs of Rutabaga, and
1 lb of flat Turnip. Peas should be sown at the rate of two and a
half, or three bushels to the acre, according to the strength of soil
and kind of peas.
C H A P T E R IX. ( *
PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES IN WINTER.
Beets and Carrots should be gathered before hard frosts in the
Fall, the tops cut off and the roots packed away in sand in a warm
cellar. A good method of preserving Beets and Carrots fresh
through the Winter is, to lay them in a circular form on the bot-
tom of the cellar, with the roots in the centre and heads outward;
cover the first course of roots with sand; then lay another course
upon them, and cover with sand as before, and so on until all are
packed and covered. The sand for Carrots should be very dry or
they will rot; for Beets it may be moist, but not wet. Celery is
preserved in the same way. Onions and Turnips keep well on
scaffolds, or in barrels, in a dry cool cellar.
To preserve Cabbages.--Freezing does not hurt Cabbages, provi-
ded you can keep them frozen; repeated thawing is what does the
mischief. Therefore make a ridge 2 feet high, 6 feet wide, and as
long as you need, on the north side of a building; on this lay some
poles crosswise, and on the poles some narrow boards lengthwise,
$2 inches apart. Take up your Cabbages in a dry day, just before
Winter, strip off some of the outside leaves, and set them, roots
upward, on the boards, cover them a foot deep with straw or corn
stalks, and they will keep fresh and green.
To preserve Sweet, Pot, and Medicinal herbs and flowers, they
should be gathered when in bloom, thoroughly dried and put up in
tight boxes or jars, till wanted for use. *

20
C; H A P T E R. X.
OF THE EISES OF, VEGETABLES,
Under this head the vegetables of the garden may be divided in-
to 4 classes, 1st., those of which we use the root, 2nd., the her-
bage, 3d., the fruit, 4th the flower.
1st Roots—Beets, Carrots, Onions, Parsnips, Radishes, Salsify,
and Turnips, are the vegetables of which the roots are used. That
all these, in one shape or another, are consumed by man, is sup-
posed to be generally understood ; but how many and which can
be most profitably fed to cattle or other stock, every reader may
not know.
Beets are highly and justly recommended for feeding milch cows
in the fall and winter, and especially in the Spring, if well preser-
wed ; also, for fattening beef and pork. If fed in the raw state,
they should be cut fine; if boiled, a little Indian meal or bran may
be mixed with them.
Carrots are excellent for fattening beef, and for milch cows.
Horses are remarkably fond of them. When cut up small, and
mixed with cut straw and given them, with a little hay, it is said
they may be kept in excellent condition for any kind of ordinary
labor, without any grain.
Milch cows should be fed sparingly with beets and carrots at first,
or they will incline to fatten, to the injury of their milling proper-
ties.
Parsnips are excellent food for neat cattle, sheep, hogs or horses.
Beef fatted on parsnips, is said to command a higher price in Eng-
land, than fatted in any other way. Milch cows fed on parsnips,
are said to give richer inilk, and yield more butler, than from any
other food. Hogs are also said to fatten very easily on them, and
to produce superior pork. Cattle are sometimes averse to parsnips
at first, but they will soon learn to relish them, after which they
will eat them with avidity.
Turnips are excellent for sheep ; Rutabaga turnips are also
É. for cattle ; they should be cut up fine and mixed with Indian
IIl Gölle
2. Herbage.—Asparagus, Cabbage, Celery, Lettuce, Parsely,
Peppergrass, Rhubarb, Sage, Savory, Spinnage and Sea Kale, are
the main vegetables raised for their herbage, although the tops and
leaves of others are frequently used. Cabbage leaves, and heads,
are excellent for cattle, especially late in the fall, when grass has
become scarce ; also the tops of beets, carrots and turnips, which
may be safely taken off at this time.
3. F.ruit—Beans, Corn, Cucumbers, Melons, P CâS, and Tomatoes,
21
are cultivated for their fruit. Beans are good for Sheep, with the
pods and vines. Peas, ground up with rye or lndian corn, form a
superior provender for fattening hogs.
4. Flowers.—Cauliflowers and Saffron. Perhaps the first of these
might as properly be classed under herbage, as flowers, the part
eaten being composed of stems and leaves, as well as flowers in
miniature, the combination, from its form and appearance, being
called a flower. The leaves are good for cattle ; the flowers, when
properly cooked, are esteemed a luxury.
C H A P T E R. X. I.
RECIPES FOR cookERY, &c.
Directions for Cooking Asparagus.-Cut the buds when from
three to six inches high. Take water enough to cover the stalks,
and put in salt sufficient to season them well; boil and skim the
water, then put in the asparagus. Be careful to take them up as
soon as they become tender, so as to preserve their true flavor and
green color; for boiling a little too long will destroy both. Serve
up with melted butter or cream. Sea Kale may be cooked in the
same way.
Salsify or Vegetable Oyster.—There are various modes of dres-
sing and cooking this vegetable. It is very excellent boiled and '
mashed up like squash and turnip, with a little salt and butter.—
Some make soup of it; in that case it should be boiled and mashed
fine, in order to increase the flavor of the soup ; a few pieces of
salt codfish added, gives it a good relish. Others prefer it par-
boiled, and then sliced up and fried in batter, or without.
To Cook Cauliflower.—Cut it when close and white, and of a
middling size; cut the stem so as to separate the flower from the
leaves below it. Let it lie in salt and water awhile ; then put it
into boiling water, with a handful of salt. Keep the boiler uncov-
ered, and skim the water well. A small flower will require about
fifteen minutes boiling ; a large one, about twenty. Take it up as
soon as a fork will easily enter the stem : a little longer boiling
will spoil it. Serve it up with gravy or melted butter.
Sweet Potato Squash may be boiled and mashed up with butter,
&c., as common squash, or cut into pieces and steamed, or baked,
in which state it is, by many, considered equal to the Carolina Po-.
tato.
Tomatoes.—Take them when ripe and red, dip them into scald-
&
Note—It is generally important in vegetable cookery that the boiling
be performed briskly, and with plenty of water.
29
ing water, and take off all the skin, cut in quarters and scrape out
the seeds; then put them into a clean stew pan and let them sim-
mer about fifteen minutes, then put in a little butter and pepper,
stir them a few minutes and they are done. Some prefer adding
some crumbs of wheat bread or grated crackers. For pies or pre-
serves the tomato requires a little more sugar than the peach to
make it equally palatable. The process of making is much the
same as with other fruit. Tomatoes may be preserved fresh by cov-
ering them with sugar. The green fruit is, often pickled, like the
cucumber or pepper. When prepared according to the following
directions they make an excellent sauce or gravy, for meat or fish :
Tomato Catchup, or Catsup.–Collect the fruit when fully ripe,
before any frost appear, squeeze or bruise them well, and boil them
slowly for half an hour, then strain them through a cloth, and put in
salt, pepper and spices to suit the taste, then boil again and take
off the scum that rises, so as to leave the houor in its pure state—
keep it boiling slowly until about one half of the juice is diminished,
then let it cool and put it into clear glass bottles, corked tight and
kept in a cool place for use. After standing awhile, should any
sediment appear in the bottles, the liquor should be poured off into
other bottles, and again corked tight.
Egg Plant.—“Cut into slices about a quarter of an inch thick,
put them into a dish, and pour on boiling water, let them remain a
minute or two ; drain off the water, and season with pepper and
salt, or with thyme, marjoram, or summer savory, according to the
palate to be suited ; dust them with flour and put them into a fry-
ing pan, which should be ready with hot beef drippings, or lard.
When browned on one side, turn them and brown the other.”
Sweet Peppers are commonly used, when fully ripe, as a salad ,
or the core may be extracted and the cavity filled with mince meat,
which, on being thus baked, receives a very agreeable relish.
Rhubarb.-Peel and wash one or two dozen sticks of Rhubarb :
put them in a stew pan, with the peel of a lemon, a bit of cinnamon,
two cloves, and as much moist sugar as will sweeten it; set it over
a fire, and reduce it to a marmalade, pass it through a hair sieve ;
then add 'the peel of a lemon and half a nutmeg grated, a quarter of
a pound of good butter, and the yolks of 4 eggs and one white, and
mix all well together: line a pie dish, that will just contain it, with
a good puff paste, put the mixture in, and bake it half an hour.”
Another.—“Prepare Rhubarb as above; cut it in small pieces in-
to a tart-dish sweeten with loaf sugar pounded : cover it over with
a good short crust paste ; sift a little sugar over the top, and bake
half an hour in a rather hot oven. Serve up cold.”
To make sherbet from Rhubarb.-4: Boil 6 or 8 sticks of Rhubarb
2::
ten minutes in a quart of water, strain the liquor through a tarnis
into a jug, with the peel of a lemon cut very thin, and two table.
spoonfuls of clarified sugar, let it stand about 5 or 6 hours and it
is fit to drink.”
To cook Beans and Peas when ripe.—Soak them in cold water
12 hours ; then par boil them, and bake, or stew, with pork of
saltpetre, sufficient to season and soften them. Beans gener-
ally require about 4 hours baking, and peas 3 hours.
C H A P T E R XII,
IPICKLING!e
“Nasturtium Berries must be gathered when they have just
attained their full size, and while they are green, plump, and ten-
der. Spice the vinegar, and pour it on while hot.”
Tomatoes.—“ Select small sized fruit, let them lie three days in
a salt pickle, drain them well, and to a half peck of Tomatoes, add
half a pound best flour of mustard, one ounce black pepper, one half
pound white mustard seed, a small quantity of horse-radish, one
ounce of cloves, and half a dozen of white onions, sliced. No
scalding is necessary, merely fill up the jars with cold wine wine-
ar.”
g Cucumbers.—These should always be cut from the vines, leaving
a short stem upon the cucumber. Clean them and place them in
a tub or jar. Prepare a brine very weak, and about as warm
as you can bear your hand in, and put to them. Let this stand
24 hours or more : then pour it off; scald and skim it well, adding
a little more salt, and apply it to the pickles a little warmer than
before. They may now stand 36 or 48 hours; then draw off the
brine, scald and recruit as before, making it still more salt and
warmer than before, Let them stand in this 48 hours : then pre-
pare a brine as strong as possible, boil and skim it well, and cool it.
Rinse your Cucumbers in cold water, and put them into this
strong brine when cold. In this situation they will keep a year or
more. Before eating, soak them in cold water 24 hours; then sour
with vinegar to suit the taste.
Another.—“Get cucumbers of about 4 inches long, and an inch
in diameter. Put them into unglazed stone jars, and cover them
with a brine of salt and water, made with a quarter of a pound of
salt to a quart of water ; cover them down, and set them before the
fire till they begin to turn yellow ; then pour off the water and cov-
er them with hot vinegar; set them again before the fire, and let
them remain till they become green; then, pour off the vinegar, and
have ready a pickle made of the strongest vinegar, to each quart of
* * 24.
which put two ounces of black peppercorns, one of ginger, one of
salt, half an ounce of allspice, half a drachm of cayenne, and about
a quarter of an ounce of white mustard seed. Pour this in while
hot, and fill up the jars two inches above the gherkins. Tie them
up air tight with a piece of bladder dipped in the pickle, and leath-
#. ...Open the jars in about a week, and fill them again with pic"
(3.
Peppers—Pick them while in a green state, and put them into a
strong cold brine. Before eating, soak them in cold water 24 hours,
and sour them at pleasure.
Beets.—Boil them, scrape off the skin, and soak them in vinegar
24 hours, or till wanted for use. When thus prepared they form an
excellent substitute for pickled cucumbers.
Bean pods, when young and tender may be made very palatable
by being firstly boiled, then soaked in vinegar a few hours; so
also may many other kinds of vegetables.
Perhaps some who have long been acquainted with the foregoing
recipes, or those which they consider preferable, may count their
publication vain. For such they are not designed ; but that they
may prove beneficial to many, and an injury to none, is, our only
intention and wish.