）- - |- |×· . .- |-.-.-|（~~~~ |× --.-|-----|×-..ſae ）-. .|×-.. |×-|-.. ：……………. （~）.ſae- .……-- ſae|×.-· ……………… |×ſae.§§§|×…ſae |×ſae- ，ſae|×（…）.ſae |×-ſae|（-）|-§.|-- ：ſae .№.. ，"…-|--~~~~ſae |- |-|× |（~~~~）; |（）- .|×-ſae |×--.§¶√∞. .|×|×|× -"…. |×№ae，ſae. ：-ſaeſae|×|× |×.-|-----. ſae·|× ſae .|-|-§§， ，|× （±（√） . .--|- -|-：|-， |×.. ）ſae- ..…….|×|×|-.|×-·， --- |-…№..|--|-----. -..-|×....…………|-|× |-|× №. .·|×：-.§. §§._.--._.-'№§§-§§ ·|-··t …|-.， ſae|-ſ.§§§）.ſae.. |-|× ：·ſaeſae-|…） §.|× |×ſae|- （）， ， ! |- º º HT º |- ſae |× |× |×- .…………………. §§§: ſae（±√（√≠√∞ ſae№ae,ſae |-ſaeſae！ -|×ſae ſae-）ſae.№ -， ！ º º: … - º º º º º |× №. |× - --- º --- ºº º - º º º … º º - - t º --~~~ - - - º . º |：|||× ſae|× - º . . . . . . . . （…） ſae. ſae № |× |× |- ſ. |× º - | …， From the Library of WALTER PRESCOT T W E B B 2,…, , a 2%-6-4s THE WILLIAM L. CLEMENTS LIBRARY - - Purchased from the Trust Fund of Lathrop Colgate Harper LITT. D. - ， · |- - º º a 50 * - . ~~ ~~~~ ~~~~（_）~~~~ ~~--|-|- - - - - - MOON LIGHT IN THE GRAND CANON OF THE ARKANSA S. CHE WAH ! WAH ! OR THE MODERN MONTEZUMAS IN MEXICO. BY GEORGE G. STREET, Author of “Zine upon Zine,” &c., &c. Illustrated with photographs taken during the trip by F. D. CLEVELAN D, and wood, cuts from sketches by the author. ROCHESTER, N. Y. E. R. ANDREWS, PRINTER AND BOOKBINDER. 1883. PR E FA C E. URING the early part of the delightful trip of which |) this volume is a very imperfect chronicle, I had the honor of being appointed “ Historian,” and in accepting the pleasant though arduous task, requested that the mem- bers of the party should furnish me with “ items" of interest, in writing, during the trip. A confidence in my ability to do my own writing, however, appears to have prevailed among the gentlemen composing the highly favored party, and, with the exception of one or two contributions handed in, I have had to perform a literary solo. For the confidence reposed in me the confiders will please accept my thanks, and for the literary contributions the contributors have my heartfelt gratitude; though a smaller amount of confidence and a greater number of contributions would have resulted in a better book. Many amusing incidents doubtless escaped my notice; many events occurred which were beyond my “ken,” and others may have seen more than I did ; but, with the limited time and brief notes at my command, I have done my best, and it will amply repay my efforts if the perusal of CHE WAH ! WAH ! shall give pleasure to any of the members of the party, or be the means of reviving the pleasant memories of the trip. “THE HISTORIAN.” A'ochester, M. 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WAH ! CHAPTER I. HOW IT CAME ABOUT. OOKING back over the history of railroads in the United States, it seems a long time since there were no such conveniences in existence as Fast Freight Lines; #sº since goods shipped from Chicago rºl and destined for New York were billed locally from one terminal point to another, and transferred from car to car in a manner that now-a-days would Set on edge the teeth of the mildest of managers; and since in some routes between the points named every pound of through freight underwent such a series of cartages, ferry voyages across wide rivers, and truck rides, that lucky was the barrel that reached its consignee with a full complement of hoops, and happy the consignee who got his barrel at all. Looking still further back, beyond the recollection of any of the old railroaders of to-day, even of Colonel Bob Forsyth, who claims to be the oldest live one in existence, it would be interesting to know whether or not Richard Trevethick ever dreamed of Fast Freight 6 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! Lines when in 18O2 he marched out of the British Patent Office with a document on parchment in his pocket, giving him the sole right to manufacture and sell “steam carriages to roll on tramways.” If he did, he certainly never dreamt of such managers as Tappen, Mitchell, Caldwell, Musson, Vilas, Spiers or Darling; or such a lively lot of agents as Charlie Case, Billy Bond, Dumont, Townsend, Garty or Billy Patterson, to say nothing of Deacon Kendall, But Trevethick and his dreams have passed away; improvement upon improvement has been made, strap rail succeeded the wooden beam, Solid iron followed the strap, and steel succeeded the iron : bridges began to span the rivers where ferries had plied before, and gauges were accommodated to each other, widened or narrowed to the 4.8% standard favored by George Stephenson, until the route that could NOT advertise “No transfer between the East and the West" was out in the cold and had to stay there until it COULD. Through Freight Lines were formed, through tariffs established, through percentages based on mileage fig- ured up, through billing inaugurated, and inharmonious interests harmonized, at about the same period that saw harmony restored between our Southern brethren and ourselves. Fast Freight Lines took a firm hold upon the affections of the public, and became, as they are to-day, benefactors of the human race. Springing from Fast Freight Lines came the Line Meetings, the semi-annual, quarterly, and at last monthly, conclaves of representatives of interested roads, to audit the accounts of the line. At first each line had a LINE MEETINGS OF THE PAST. 7 different time and place, but soon necessity compelled a general time and place for the meetings of all the lines in certain interests, and to-day the Line Meetings call together for two or three days each month the most able, best looking, jolliest, most dignified and fattest set of gentlemen that “E'er the sun shone on.” Who dare attempt the unwritten history of the Line Meetings of the past 2 the problems solved in the busy hours of toil—the millions of vouchers examined as they are passed one by one around the table, then back into the big leathern trunk of the perspiring accountant—the evening exodus from the hotel in parties of from one to a dozen, Some to call on local friends, some to enjoy the Opera, the theatre or possibly the ballet, and some—yuiem saôe 2 Who could depict the ease and grace of Hayden as in years gone by (bubbling over with hospitality on behalf of the Boston & Albany Railroad Company) he walked the quarter-deck of the Char/es /*erson as she steamed out over the blue ocean off Boston with a happy cargo of “Line Men,” who always fished for cod and always caught sculpin; the more exuberant hospitality of Arthur Mills, as in later years, on behalf of the same company, he steamed his guests over the same waters, immersing them in a forty horse power fog, the pilot and the captain getting in a denser fog than their precious cargo, and finally running the old “Admiral” under the nose of the “Nantasket”; the hearty hospitality of Sar- gent at Montreal, aided by the aesthetic Harris; of Marcy on Lake Champlain and Lake George; of Culp, Geiger and Southard at Louisville, and of Livingston at Detroit; and who could enumerate the scores of Indian 8 CHE wAH ! WAH ! curiosities, canes and trinkets, purchased at the meetings at Niagara Falls, year after year, from the fascinating female merchants, Libbie and Katie. A thousand pleasant memories linger of the well- earned recreation and amusement of hours when the Solid work of the day was over; but let them pass with the vouchers for the present, and turn we to chronicle the latest and greatest event of modern hospi- tality. In the early part of October, 1882, the gentlemen representing the various eastern railroads at the Line Meetings, and the Line Managers, were favored with a neat invitation, couched as follows: DEAR SIR : The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy, Burlington & Mis- souri River in Nebraska, Denver & Rio Grande, and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroads, request the pleasure of your company on an excursion to Colorado, New Mexico and Mexico. It is expected to leave Chicago on the 20th or 21st inst., immediately after the Line Meetings, which it is supposed will be held about that date, and every endeavor will be made to render the trip pleasant and profitable to those who participate in it. The Great West is being so rapidly developed that a trip of this kind furnishes our Eastern friends with a knowledge of the country, its resources and its transportation facilities, which they could hardly obtain in any other manner, and it is sincerely hoped that acceptance of this invitation will be quite general. In order that proper arrangements may be made for the comfort of our guests, it becomes necessary that your acceptance should be forwarded promptly to E. P. Ripley, Chicago, so as to reach him not later than the 14th inst. If for unavoidable reasons any acceptance should reach PRE PARATIONS. 9 him after that date, every effort will be made to provide accommodation, but our ability to do so cannot be relied on, for obvious reasons. You will therefore oblige us with a prompt response, that your comfort may be assured. Respectfully, E. P. RIPLEY, General Freight Agent, C. B. & Q. R. R.; THOMAS MILLER, General Freight Agent, B. & M. R. R. in Neb.; J. F. GODDARD, General Freight Agent, A. T. & S. F. R. R.; A. S. HUGHES, General Freight Agent, D. & R. G. R. R. The magnitude of the proposed trip astonished every one, and it is perhaps needless to remark that each favored recipient made up his mind that, business per- mitting, he would accept. The Line Meetings were called for Chicago, on October 18th and 19th, as indicated in the invitations. Seventy-five or eighty acceptances were received, and Mr. Ripley pushed on with wonderful ability, forethought and vigor the thou- sand and one details of the trip, from the greatest to the most minute. The meetings were held, the business transacted with promptness and fidelity, the dinner at the Grand Pacific disposed of in short order, valises packed, and, at 2.30 P. M., on Thursday, October 19th, 1882, a line of omnibuses left the hotel laden with invited guests, amid the good-byes and adieus of hun- dreds of kind friends who wanted to go too, but to whom fickle fortune had denied the privilege. Alighting at the handsome Union Depot on Canal street and IO CHE | WAH ! WAH ! repairing to the track level, there stood ready for departure the handsomest train of cars that ever ran out of Chicago, consisting of three brand new Pullman sleepers, the “Somonauk,” “Cliola,” “La Clede,” the official car of the K. C. St. J. & C. B. R. R., the dining car “ Brevoort,” and a baggage car; the baggage on this Occasion, however, turning out, as was discovered later by the guests, to be principally commissary stores, solids and liquids, in judicious proportions. Most of the guests wanted to take a Saratoga trunk apiece, as personal “luggage,” So as to have lots of good clothes for the two weeks trip, but on learning that there was only to be one baggage car attached to the train, and that each trunk taken would cause a similar number of cubic feet of commissary stores to be left behind, they rushed to the Other extreme, and each one got along with a grip sack. Claw-hammer coats and all the “extras” could be dis- pensed with, but the commissary department should never be hampered through lack of space As the locomotive, “71," puffs and pants impatient to speed away, cast your eyes for a moment over the assemblage on the platform. Towering over most of those around him stands J. Q. A. Bean, beaming with benevolence and good humor, and as he is not to accompany the party, much to the regret of all, shaking hands with each one who comes up to say good-bye. Mr. Ripley passes in and out of the crowd with a look of calm contentment on his manly countenance, mingled with a consciousness of his responsibility and paternal care for the party. The portly Fred Cross meanders about, with a jolly word here and there for his old PERSONAL NOTES. I I friends; and the youthful but keen looking Paul Morton welcomes this and that one to the hospitalities of the train, and while he is to accompany the party for only a few hundred miles, his looks intimate a strong desire to go through the entire programme. Tenbroeck has come all the way from New York, had a good night's rest at the “Pacific,” and with a big cigar in the corner of his mouth, pointed upward at an angle of forty-five degrees (the cigar, not his mouth), looks happy and contented and glad that he is going. Jack Grier, alas ! is to be one of the stay-at-homes, a fact which is universally regretted, certainly not more by himself than his friends; that is, his friends about to start on the trip. There are men of all styles, sizes and degrees of per- Sonal pulchritude in the party. In the first place, they have a sensible, Solid appearance—no fops or “howling swells” among them —their clothes being built in the latest quiet and unassuming style of tailoring archi- tecture. There are a few, but very few, thin and tall ones, the expansive figures predominating by a very large majority, close observation having demonstrated the fact that the avoirduportly style is generally adopted by rail- road officials; a paradox when you come to consider that most of these expansive men are at the same time contracting agents, and expand the business of their various companies by contracting it. The majority of the party are young men on the bright side of forty, though quite a number are middle-aged, the silver threads earned in the hard strifes incident to their calling streak- ing their otherwise dark and luxuriant hair, while a few elderly, dignified-looking gentlemen are among the guests I 2 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! and add tone to the party. But youthful or mature, tall or short, thin or the reverse, the entire party on the platform compare favorably in appearance with any gathering of gentlemen of any vocation that could be summoned together for a similar purpose, and a jollier or more genial set could not be found anywhere. ALL ABOARD ! I 3 CHAPTER II. THE START. * . * * * HE diagrams of the cars are in # %. - }% - _ºr_º the hands of Melvin Tarble, the %. , \{% - 2. W. J % Pullman conductor, who notifies zzº. each enquirer the number of berth º assigned to him. The bustling por- ters take the valises and satchels, º 7 * the conductor calls “All aboard ' " final adieus are Said, and at 3: o3 ºf P. M. the train pulls out for its long journey. A cruise through the long train, as it glides along at the rate of forty miles an hour, discovers the following gentlemen to comprise the roster: E. P. RIPLEY, General Freight Agent, Chicago, Burling- ton & Quincy R. R., Chicago. W. F. BERRY, General Freight Agent, Eastern R. R., Boston. J. E. BACON, General Freight Agent, Providence & Wor- cester R. R., Providence. J. LOW RIE BELL, General Traffic Manager, Philadelphia & Reading R. R., Philadelphia. ORSON BREED, General Agent, Great Eastern Line, New York. W. J. BOGERT, Agent, Pennsylvania R. R., New York. R. L. CRAW FORD, General Eastern Freight Agent, N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R., New York. “ H. C. COGSWELL, General Freight Agent, Housatonic R. R., Bridgeport. S. D. CALDWELL, General Manager, Red Line, Buffalo. I 4 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! C. F. CASE, General Eastern Agent, Erie & North Shore Despatch, New York. GEO. CARHART, Foreign Freight Agent, N. Y. L. E. & W. R. R., New York. CHAs. CLARKE, Michigan Agent, Milwaukee Line, Detroit. A. J. CROSS, Agent, C. B. & Q. R. R., Chicago. R. D. CLEVELAND, Traveling Auditer, C. B. & Q. R. R., Burlington. G. H. CROSBY, General Freight Agent, K. C. St. J. & C. B. R. R., St. Joseph. C. C. CHAMBERLAIN, Assistant Agent, L. S. & M. S. Rºy, Chicago. W. K. CHAPIN, Vice-President, Car Wheel Works, Roch- eSter. T. S. DUMONT, General Eastern Agent, Great Western Despatch, New York. R. T. DAVIs, Division Freight Agent, C. B. & Q. R. R., Chicago. CHAS. G. EDDY. A. FELL, Agent, Blue Line, Scranton. EDWARD FOLEY, Assistant General Freight Agent, N. Y. L. E. & W. R. R., New York. H. T. GALLUP, Assistant General Freight Agent, Boston & Albany R. R., Boston. W. GEAGEN, General Eastern Agent, Merchants Despatch Transportation Company, New York. WILLIAM GARTY, New England Agent, Blue Line, Boston. C. L. HARTWELL, General Freight Agent, Fitchburg R. R., Boston. H. E. HOWARD, General Freight Agent, Connecticut River R. R., Springfield. B. A. HEGEMAN, General Freight Agent, Delaware, Lack- awanna & Western R. R., New York. GEO. HALL, Agent, Red Line, New York. E. HAWLEY, General Eastern Agent, California Fast Freight Line, New York. W. A. JONES, Agent, Empire Line, New York. WHO THEY WERE. I 5 T. J. KLASE, General Agent, Waverly Line, Philadelphia. H. KENDALL, New England Agent, Erie & North Shore Despatch, Boston. - W. E. LOCKE, General Agent, Fitchburg R. R., Boston. JAMES MILLS, Agent, Boston & Albany R. R., Boston. E. M. MooRE, General Freight Agent, Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg R. R., Oswego. H. S. MARCY, General Freight Agent, Delaware & Hud- son Canal Company, Albany. H. H. MARSHALL, General Freight Agent, Boston, Barre & Gardner R. R., Worcester. - J. W. MIDGLEY, Pool Commissioner, &c., Chicago. THOS. MILLER, General Freight Agent, Burlington & Mis- souri River R. R. in Nebraska, Omaha. G. B. McCULLOH, Agent, Empire Line, Philadelphia. PAUL MORTON, Assistant General Freight Agent, C. B. & Q. R. R., Chicago. W. H. PERRY, General Freight Agent, Canada Southern Railway, Buffalo. F. L. POMEROY, General Freight Agent, Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain R. R., Ogdensburg. S. T. PAYSON, New York. J. A. PERKINS, Division General Freight Agent, Pitts- burgh, Cincinnati & St. Louis R. R., Indianapolis. A. H. PRIDE, Agent, Grand Trunk Railway (G. W. Divi- sion), New York. EDWARDS ROBERTS, Correspondent Boston Herald, Bos- ton. W. S. SPEIRs, General Manager, Erie & North Shore Despatch, Detroit. A. W. STREET, Assistant General Freight Agent, Michigan Central R. R., Detroit. F. D. STOWE, General Central Agent, Merchants Despatch Transportation Company, Buffalo. GEO. G. STREET, General Accountant, Blue Line, Roch- eSter. - A. G. TUTTLE, General Freight Agent, New York & New England R. R., Hartford. I6 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! C. S. TAPPEN, General Manager, Hoosac Tunnel Line, Rochester. J. H. THOMAS, Cashier, Great Western Despatch, New York. NEWTON R. TURNER, Division General Freight Agent, Philadelphia & Reading R. R., Philadelphia. - C. DE K. TOWNSEND, New England Agent, Merchants Despatch Transportation Company, Boston. R. TENBROECK, Agent, C. B. & Q. R. R., New York. H. C. VILAS, General Manager, Commercial Express, Buffalo. W. S. WEED, General Freight Agent, Lake Erie & West- ern R. R., Lafayette. J. R. WHEELER, General Superintendent, Western Weigh- ing Association, Chicago. Judge T. C. WHITESIDE, Correspondent Chicago Tribune, Chicago. A. H. WARD, General Eastern Freight Agent, N. Y. L. E. & W. R. R., New York. E. R. WADSWORTH, General Agent, N.Y. L. E. & W. R. R., Chicago. Certainly an array of names affording excellence in every branch of art, Science and literature—the genii of fun, the veterans of “draw,” samples of dignity, and perhaps a sample or two of impudence. The complement of employees was full, and embraced the following: Melvin Tarble, Pullman Conductor. Troy Brown, waiter. G. W. Pierce, Steward. Albert Green, “ E. Raynor, baggage-master. James Banks, “ Sung-duh, pantryman. Perry Bates, & 4 Chas. Roberts, 1st cook. Joe Varona, & 4 Joe Lawson, 2d & 4 Seward French, “ L. Smith, 3d ( & Joe Nusem, & 4 Fred Turner, 4th & 4 DINING CAR." BREVOORT,” C. B. & Q. R. R. "How Is he treating you, gents?” YUM-YU M. I 7 Sung-duh, an accomplished Asiatic attaché of Fred Cross' household, acted as pantryman and general assist- ant. “Sindy" is a character in his way, and though a Chinaman, is away above association with the general run of his countrymen. Comparatively well educated and quick witted, he possesses the unusual faculty of “smoothing down" belligerent Hibernian help, and wherever he has been has always become a general favorite with his associates of whatever sex, color or nationality. The first part of the afternoon was spent by the guests in the interchange of visits, the greeting of old friends and the formation of new friendships. Cordiality, good humor and general good feeling abounded in a degree unparalleled. Each one had set out for a good time, and the universal desire seemed to be, not only to have it, but to contribute as well to the happiness of others. The train sped along rapidly, Aurora (forty miles) being reached in forty minutes, and soon left far behind. Time kept pace with the train, and before anyone was aware of the fact, six o'clock arrived and dinner was announced. Repairing to the “Brevoort,” a scene of brilliancy was presented which will linger in the memories of the guests for all remaining years. When at some future time, possibly, doomed to common-place fare and a solitary repast, they look back to that first dinner on the “Brevoort,” but a sample, by the way, of all the other dinners on the trip, how their mouths will water how they will long for Pierce and his sable corps How will rise up the vision of that spotless table linen ; napkins worked into fan-tastic shapes; glistening cutlery stacked 2 I 8 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! & with military precision, and acrobatic waiters supplying each prandial longing with the rapidity of Alladin's slaves of the lamp. Alladin was nowhere in regard to lamps, he having but one, while Pierce, the magician of the Brevoort, had five brilliant ones constantly shining on the heavily-laden tables, and to each lamp an attendant. A gilt-edged card was presented to each of the guests, bearing the following legend: THE C., B. & Q., TO ITS EASTERN FRIENDS, GA2/2/2 T/AVG. CHICAGO TO MEXICO, Oct., 1882. And on its reverse side the following: MENU : New York Counts. Green Turtle. Lake Trout. Whitefish. Turkey, Oyster Sauce. Buffalo Tongue. Beef. - Chicken. Fillet of Beef, with Truffles. Lamb Chops, Breaded, with French Peas. Saddle of Venison, Currant Jelly. Prairie Chicken. Red-Head Duck. Boiled Potatoes. French String Beans. Sweet Potatoes. Asparagus. French Peas. Apple Pie. Cherry Tarts. English Plum Pudding. New York Ice Cream. Fruit. Cake. Edam Cheese. Hard Crackers. Tea. - Coffee. - “How's HE TREATING YOU 2" I Q Mingled with the clatter of knives and forks and the jingling of glasses, a cheery voice, emanating from an active, bustling little man, the genius of the culinary castle, the omnipresent Pierce, enquires at your table : “How's he treating you, gents 2 anything you want?” and as he fills with champagne, latour-blanc or claret the vacuum in your glass, he waltzes on to the next table, or to the sideboard for a fresh bottle. Dinner over and cigars being lighted in the sleepers, parties were formed by some for whist, euchre and the fascinating draw, while others chatted and amused them- selves in various other ways. The Mississippi River, glistening in the bright moonlight, was reached and crossed at nine o'clock, a short stop made at Burlington, and then onward towards the Missouri, across the fertile prairies of Iowa. 2O CHE | WAH ! WAH ! CHAPTER III. ACROSS THE PLAINS. RIDAY, October 20th, dawned with a cloudless sky and a clear, cool atmosphere, and shortly after breakfast the Missouri Valley was § entered through the line or range ſº of rounded bluffs bordering it on Pacific Junction, but, brief though it was, it afforded the genial Tappen an opportunity of getting left, a thing seldom occurring in his career. The train left a few seconds before he did, but he started after it along the platform, over six or eight ties at a stride, jumping cattle-guards and Switches, making Hoosac Tunnel Line time between the East and the West, and creating a sensation among the residents, until, thoroughly winded, he sat down on an ash barrel and waited until the train backed up and took him on board again. It may be remarked that thereafter no one stuck closer to the cars than Manager Tappen. He found getting left and liquidating the joke too expensive to be frequently indulged in. A few miles further on the Missouri River Bridge came in view, spanning that muddy, channel-changing stream with its low banks, and frowning bluffs in the background, and Plattsmouth, Nebraska, was reached. SETTLING DOWN. 2 I The friskiness of the party was here exemplified to the astonished natives by the indulgence in an animated game of “Hop, Skip and Jump,” chief in which figured the light-weight team, Carhart, Cross, Moore and Geagen, backed by Deacon Kendall, Lowrie Bell and Commis- sioner Midgley; while at the next stopping place their versatility was displayed by an exhibition of proficiency in the enchanting game of “Duck on a Rock.” Lincoln was reached before noon, and a stop made of an hour or two to enable the party to hastily look over the young capital city of Nebraska. Lincoln is a healthy infant, has wide streets and thriving-looking stores, and boasts a handsome State Capitol, fine Post Office build- ing, and several State institutions of education and charity. Information was obtained from Some of the party that it also had a lager beer saloon. On leaving Lincoln, Hon. J. Sterling Morton, father of “our Paul,” joined the party and rode as far as Crete, where both alighted and were sorrowfully parted with by the whole company, as the train again moved off toward the setting sun. The afternoon was spent by the various gentlemen as best Suited their tastes—some reading the morning papers procured at Lincoln, others, as they nestled back in their cosy easy chairs, Smoking and admiring the beautiful prairie farming country, calculat- ing the tonnage the bordering districts would bring their respective roads, while each state-room was occupied by Select parties engaged in the childlike game of draw. Occasionally the sound of business discussions was heard, but only seldom, as “shop" was left behind and the pleasures of the trip pretty generally substituted. 22 - - CHE wAH ! WAH ! While at Lincoln, Charlie Case was standing on the platform of the depot, engaged in conversation with a fair lady to whom he had just been introduced and to whom he was making his best endeavors to be agreeable and entertaining, when George Carhart called out: “Mr. Case, please come into your car, the babies are crying.” Case wilted, and his subsequent remarks indicated wan- dering thoughts; but at Hastings, that afternoon, he got even. A granger on the platform indicating a desire to See what was in the cars, Charlie took him in to see “Jumbo," in the person of George Carhart slumbering peacefully in a corner seat, whom he awakened by punching him in his capacious diaphragm with an umbrella, and shouting: “Wake up, Jumbo; wake up, you old elephant l” Jumbo wakened with a vengeance, and Charlie and the granger came flying out of the cars, followed by flying missiles of every kind within reach. Passing rapidly along over the prairies, the sun sank in the west as usual, and as Red Cloud was reached, a bright carmine Sunset-cloud skirted the western horizon, which Fred Cross insisted was always visible from this point, and which, he said, had given the name to the town. Red Cloud boasts of a boot-black as bright and “Sassy" as any of the Broadway urchins, and as he stood on the platform of the depot chaffing with “the boys,” it was difficult to realize that even this branch of civilization had penetrated seventeen or eighteen hundred miles from the Sea-coast, and was apparently thriving as well on alkali as on brine. 4- IN SIGHT OF THE ROCKIES. 23 CHAPTER IV. D ENVER. ATURDAY, October 21st, came in as Smiling, bright and cheerful as a pocketful of chips. A first glance - through the window of the car as each one awoke revealed another remarkably clear sky, and a second revealed a long stretch of the great Sunny range of the Rocky Mountains fringing the western sky—peak after peak of snow-clad hills towering up thousands of feet and seeming to pierce the very heavens. Long's Peak, away off to the northward, loomed up mightily; while to the southward, Pike's Peak rose up in grandeur, its snowy crest rose-tinted with the first kiss of the morning sun. What feelings of awe the first glimpse of the great Rocky Mountains inspired in those to whom the sight was new The very name was fraught with mingled associations of gold, silver, Indians, bears, brilliant fortunes or blasted hopes. Doubtless other asSociations would have presented themselves were it not for the fact that reveries were soon cut short by the arrival of the train in the suburbs of Denver. Satchels were gathered together, overcºats donned, moustaches twisted into parade point, and a few minutes later the handsome Union Depot was reached, and all alighted on 24 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! the broad, open platform, traced by a dozen tracks, the third rail of the narrow gauge roads being here encoun- tered for the first time during the trip. Passing through the archway of the depot in irregular procession, valises in hand, the party made their way along a wide street closely built with small stores bearing yet rather a border air, then into a wide thoroughfare presenting an active, go-ahead, business appearance, and lined with handsome buildings of brick and stone, which compare well with many of the streets in more preten- tious towns in the East. Passing along this street a square or two, the visitors were the subject of consider- able friendly curiosity, on the part of the street urchins particularly, one of whom hazarded the remark: “Them's Democrats; I know them by their stomachs.” Another insisted that they were Republicans, and another that they were newspaper men; but, alas ! none mistook them for a Sunday-School convention. Fred Cross and Charlie Case were too much worldly leaven for the balance of the theological lump. Arriving at the Windsor, an imposing hotel built of stone and possessing much architectural beauty, names were registered, rooms assigned, an excellent breakfast done justice to, old friends unexpectedly encountered, new ones introduced, and the morning passed in the hotel or out in the city, according to the inclination and taste of the individual. At 3 o'clock the genius of the trip summoned to the hotel a large number of handsome open carriages, each drawn by a fine team of grey horses—gold on the harness and all that sort of thing— and the party was taken for a drive, first through the DEPOT OF B. & M. R. R. R. |N NEBRASKA, - L|NCOLN, NEB. UNION DEPOT, . DENVER, COLORADO. BEHIND" THE GREYS. - 25 principal business streets, and then to various points of interest in and around the city. The long procession of stylish turnouts attracted much attention and wonder- ment, but the jolly, happy faces of the “Freight men" forbade any idea of funereal connexion, and the specta- tors, though probably not knowing the angels they were entertaining unawares, unhesitatingly made up their minds that, whoever they were, they were out for a good time and were making the most of the opportunity. A drive was taken to the hills to the northward, from which an excellent view of the city was obtained, and which gave one a good idea of this most enterprising and go-head of all the far-western cities—the commercial and Social center of the mining country of the Rocky Mountains region—the young giant, Denver. With a present population of 40,000, which has increased from 4,759 since 1870, what will be its magnificent future Proceeding over gently sloping hillsides and winding roads, the carriages halted, and the magnates alighted at the magnificent works of the Boston and Colorado Smelting Company, at Argo, permission to inspect which had been kindly granted the party. These works were erected in 1878, since which time they have turned out upwards of ten millions of dollars worth of bullion, and are now producing about four millions of dollars worth per annum. Several of the gentlemen in the party con- templated purchasing the establishment, but it would have left them rather short for pocket-money during the trip, so they didn't. They noted with great interest the processes in the transition of the rich but ugly-looking ore into frosty-looking silver—stepped on red-hot slag, 26 CHE | WAH + WAH ! picked up specimens of iron pyrites with the idea that it was gold, heard marvellous tales of wealth, and had a good time generally—leaving the works with a fair idea of the connection between the rocky treasures of the mountains they looked upon as they emerged from the grounds and the silver dollars that chinked in their pockets as they jumped into their carriages and were driven again towards the city. The returning route of the caravan led through streets lined with handsome residences, which, in elegance and taste, charmed the visitors, and brought forth exclama- tions of Surprise and wonderment that such things could exist So far away from Boston. The grand court-house was passed and much admired ; the busy, brilliantly- lighted streets traversed, “The Windsor" reached, and the delightful drive was over. Three or four of the party were left when the rest started from the hotel, owing, it was Supposed, to a misunderstanding on their part as to the hour of departure, and expressions of pity for them were heard on all sides; but it was discovered later that one of them had been sighted at the race-course, driving a very stylish turnout, with a beautiful daughter of Denver in brilliant array by his side, and that the others were engaged in a somewhat similar manner. The conclusion arrived at was that the day had not been quite as frosty for them as had been at first supposed. After tea the evening was spent in various ways. Some of the cherubs investigated the Celestial curiosities of Chinatown, and others went the rounds of the great gambling rooms, where men and boys were staking their silver and gold on the turn of a card, the resting-place of sMofed out. 27 a marble, or the aggregate number on the dice, while the innocent-looking “capper” stood by, learning the game, and Occasionally trying his hand with dazzling success. One select party concluded quietly to “see the elephant” at the “Palace Theatre,” and on arrival was ushered into the principal private box, directly opposite the stage, at the rear of the auditorium. Through the clouds of smoke familiar forms soon appeared ; the head of first this friend and then of that one popped out from the curtained boxes adjoining, recognitions ensued, visits were exchanged, and it was soon evident that the entire list hereinbefore given was represented, and constituted a majority of the audience. The show was variety—very varied in fact—and the Smoky atmosphere was too much for the visitors, who soon left for the Windsor or waited up to see the comet, and Saturday in Denver was over. 28 CHE wAH" wah CHAPTER V. D ENVER TO LEADVILLE. UN DAY, October 22d, was ush- ered in with another cloudless sky, and slumberers at 6:30 (a very ## early hour, by the way, for any of the pilgrims to rise, especially on Sunday) were aroused by a sable ºr descendent of Ham tapping at the & bedroom door and admonishing A A-É KCK-8 2-2 ºr J 2: &#" gºFEEſº- -tº- them to “git right up, or ve'll git | e g S D, y S left!” a summons instantly obeyed, owing to a disin- clination to repeat the Pacific Junction episode of the venerable Mr. Tappen. It is needless to remark that that gentleman was the first out of bed and the first to make his appearance in the breakfast room. - Reaching the Union Depot at 7:30, and passing out on the side platform, there was found an exact counter- part of the train which had brought the party from Chicago, only on a slightly diminished scale, as the next two days were to be spent on the narrow gauge tracks of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The train consisted of the Pullman sleepers “Zuni,” “Navajo,” “Toltec,” “Americano,” a dining car and commissary car, the names having an aboriginal, foreign kind of a sound, which rather tickled the fancies of the travelers, who DENVER, COLORADO. 11 THE WINDSOR PRA|RIE DOGS |N COLORADO, LEAVING D ENVER. 29 were thenceforth prepared for anything Smacking of Aztec or Spanish, and would not have been surprised at even the dusky porters or waiters on the train addressing them as Señor. This was a surprise not in store, however, as the colored individuals in question stuck to the good old Senegambian tongue—“Yes, sah,” and “No, Sah"—and did not understand any bits of Spanish thrown at them by way of practice by any of the linguistically accomplished pilgrims. A slight detention occurred before starting orders were given, owing to the necessity of waiting for the small chap from Rochester, who had sat up the previous night to see the comet and had overslept himself; but he was soon espied coming down the street on a dead run, with three or four dogs after him, and the train started as he arrived. A glance through the cars revealed the fact that Messrs. Crawford, Hawley and Carhart had left the party at Denver, having been compelled to return home by business engagements, which all regretted exceedingly. Some new friends had, however, stepped in to fill the gap : A. S. Hughes, General Freight Agent, and G. W. Ristine, Assistant General Manager, Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, Denver, had taken charge of the party on behalf of the hospitable company represented by them, while Theodore F. Brown, General Agent, Atchi- son, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad, Denver; S. A. Brown, General Western Agent, Great Western Des- patch, Denver; and C. M. Hampson, General Agent, Wabash Railway, Denver, had been added to the list of guests; but George Carhart left such a big gap to fill that it wasn't attempted. 3O CHE wAH ! WAH ! Pulling out from the city, the party being all in the best of spirits in anticipation of the novel and delightful trip in store for them, the clear, crisp air added, if pos- sible, to the general good feeling and buoyancy evinced On all sides. It was Sunday, and it was recorded with pleasure that for the day the pasteboards were idle and the clink of the chips hushed, not an unexpected fact, but none the less creditable to the gentlemen concerned. Skirting along the banks of the Platte River and leaving Denver a couple of miles behind, a stop for a moment was made at the car shops of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, an extensive establishment, employing about 1,500 workmen, and turning Out fifteen cars per day. Another stop was made at the crossing Of the Denver & New Orleans Railroad, a mile further on, where a good view was obtained of the Denver Mining Exposition Building, a handsome edifice of brick and iron, erected in ninety-three days, and being the Scene during the past season of such a display of raw wealth and the means used in its transmogrification into bullion as the world never saw before. A train on the Denver & South Park Railroad is Seen speeding along the valley to the westward, winding around the hillside, bound for the heart of the “Rockies,” the heavy grades and sharp curves it is destined to meet with being indicated by the fact that the seven cars of which it is composed are drawn by two locomotives. Ascending grades averaging forty or fifty feet to the mile, Acequia is reached, and the big ditch or aqueduct ten miles long, carrying water from the Platte for irrigating purposes, is crossed; coyotes and prairie dogs begin to \ GOTH (HIC!) ARCHITECTURE. 3 I appear; cornfields and ranches, with thousands of cattle quietly ruminating their cud, or making their morning meal off the yellowish grass, dot the sloping pastures, while watchful but lazy-looking shepherds sit astride their ponies like equestrian statues, quietly and classically playing on their sylvan pipes. Sylvan is a bad word to use in connexion with Colorado pastures, as woods are scarce, but presuming that their pipes were wooden, it wooden do to let the Opportunity pass for using a Virgil-ian phrase. All will remember the “Keg and Bottle Saloon,” passed at Acequia, a new style of archi- tecture to Eastern eyes, but probably doing a thriving business in very long range liquor and killing a fair share of its customers. Still onward and upward, on grades increasing in steep- ness—seventy-five, eighty and ninety feet to the mile- 32 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! around precipitous hills and fantastically shaped rocks, till, at an elevation of 7,237 feet, Lake Palmer is reached, a calm little body of clear, cold water, nestling quietly in the lap of the surrounding hills, and so evenly balanced on the “Divide” between the Platte and the Arkansas rivers that, hesitating which way to flow, it doesn't flow at all, but remains till winter turns it into ice for use on the Rio Grande road. Descending from the “Divide,” the aspect of the country begins to assume more the appearance of the Mexican type of civilization: the increasing number of adobe houses, herds of goats and burros, dark-skinned, long-haired inhabitants being more frequently Seen, and a general feeling prevailing that in crossing the “Divide " the dividing line had been drawn between the American and Mexican char- acteristics. Colorado Springs, a lovely town seventy-five miles from Denver, was reached at about Io:30. Pike's Peak, rising to an elevation of 14,147 feet, seems to be within easy strolling distance of the handsome stone hotel in course of completion at this point; but to attempt the feat would result in slight discouragement to the ordinary pedestrian, the distance to its base being fifteen or sixteen miles. It is one of the peculiarities of Pike's Peak that you can see it from almost any point along the range of the Rocky Mountains. It looms in sight before you reach Denver from the east; it does not seem very far from Denver when you get there; you can go north and see it from points on the line of the Union Pacific Railroad; you can go South a day's journey and yet it still looms before you; and during the sinuous course of , COLORADO. CANON CITY SODA SPRING |N THE GRAND CANON OF THE ARKANSAS. U P THE ARKAN-SAW. 33 that day's travel it was visible at intervals until the sun set and night enveloped it in darkness. Arriving at Pueblo at about noon, the Arkansas River was crossed, and, without stopping, the train runs through the town and on for a mile or two, up a steep grade, to Bessemer, where extensive steel works are in operation, turning out upwards of one hundred tons of steel rails per diem, in addition to a large quantity of nails. A hasty glance was taken at the works, from the train, which then ran back to Pueblo, and a stoppage of half an hour enabled the despatch of telegrams, postal cards and letters back to the office, or to “the girl I left behind me.” Leaving Pueblo at about one o'clock, headed north- westerly, the train made excellent time up grade, following the wandering course of the Arkansas River, and meandering in and out through rocky cuts and along the wooded meadow bottoms skirting the stream. Lonely looking hamlets are passed, habitations grow few and far between, and few signs of human or animal life are visible. A stray cow here and there nips the grass or tugs at the shoots that sprout from the willow tree overhanging the rippling stream. One solitary tramp is encountered, bound towards Pueblo, whose gait and raiment, and worldly goods tied up in a red handker- chief, proclaim the fact that he has been in the mining country, tried his luck, but, not having struck a paying lead, is on his way homeward, perhaps to wife and children, or perhaps, like the prodigal son, to have the old man give him a new start in life. The stream grows more rapid, the sharp curves and the sharp rocky corners 3 34 . CHE wAH ! wa H ! grow sharper, the huge mountains ahead appear as an impenetrable wall, and, as if to take a rest, the train stops at Cañon City, where all alight for a moment at the Soda spring, take a glassful of the soda water which bubbles up through the rock under the rustic pavilion, stand before the camera of the artistic Cleveland for a moment, and are off again. The observation car having been attached to the train at Cañon City, the entire party take seats in it, and tie handkerchiefs around their necks and heads to avoid the flying cinders. The mountain is entered by following the narrow course of the Arkansas; the walls grow narrower, higher and still higher, and the passage of the Grand Cañon of the Arkansas is begun. The swift river, Seething and boiling in its mad course, dashes over its rocky bed, through huge blocks of granite that had become detached from overhanging cliffs and fallen to the lowest depths of the gorge below. Looking forward and backward from any single point, only a limited view is within the scope of the eye, the tortuous course of the cañon shutting out a very extended view in a horizontal direction ; but looking upward, the scene is grand beyond description. Gigantic rocky walls tower up thousands of feet high on all sides, now in perpendic- ular walls with huge projecting masses overhanging the caſion below, again sloping backwards and upwards until the crest seems lost in the blue sky above. Huge caverns and deep clefts yawn from the midst of granite cliffs. Wonder succeeds wonder, each curve of the cañon revealing a Scene in the grand panorama more astounding than the last. An hundred pair of eyes are | | | | | | | | | 35 turned in as many directions, strained in the fruitless effort to grasp, in the rapid passage, the countless won- ders in view ; and an hundred voices give vent to exclamations of Surprise, awe and admiration. As each one is impressed with some grand or particularly start- ling object, Some fantastically formed rock or dangerously overhanging cliff, one-thousandth part of which, falling, would send the entire party to eternity, he points in that direction, but finds his associates each pointing at Some other different but equally remarkable object. Heads are turned and necks twisted in the attempt to look in several different ways at once, until the muscles are tired, and relief is felt when a small bridge is at last reached, spanning an eddy in the rushing river, and pendant from overhanging steel beams, and a halt for a few minutes rest is made. Up the Royal Gorge again, along the flowing river, beneath giant cliffs, through rocky cuts, around sharp curves and up steep grades, for eight miles the same scenes continue, until the rocks get lower and lower, and the channel wider and wider, the stream flows along with less precipitation, and a comparatively open country is reached. The trip up the valley from the cañon to Leadville was one of quiet enjoyment of lovely panorama of mountain and dale. The sun set in a clear sky, the rays first disappearing from the valleys as the hilltops hid the sun from view ; then the shadows gathered on the lower hills, crept higher and higher, till, for a brief space, only the rose-tinted crests of the highest peaks caught the last glances of the setting Sun; a moment more and the shadow was on all the scene. 36 - CHE wAH ! WAH ! With the fading light of the sun, the lamps in the cars were lighted, and when supper had been disposed of a song service was held in the “Chapel” car, which would have pleased the dear ones at home could they have been present. Brothers Tappen, Bogart, Pomeroy and Townsend led the singing in quartette, the former Sup- plying the words of the hymn in an impressive manner when the rest of the choir displayed an unfamiliarity with the text. The music was excellent, and but for the hats which in some cases were allowed to remain on the heads of the congregation, it would have been easy to have imagined one's self in a good old-fashioned prayer meeting; but when the melodious voice of the good old Deacon struck up the Doxology, every head was uncovered, and a reverence shown for the impressive words which did credit to the early—if not later— bringing up of the “mighty men of rates.” A visit to the same car half an hour later, alas ! revealed the fact that church was out, the boys were smoking, and another quartette was singing “Ristine's a jolly good fellow," “Riplee is a jolly good fellow,” “Hughes is a jolly good fellow, which nobody can deny.” Nobody could deny it, most emphatically; and if anybody had denied it, it is morally certain somebody would have been hurt. Approaching Leadville at a rapid rate, a very heavy grade is made apparent by the panting of the three locomotives as they drew the train rapidly up hill. One hundred and fifty feet to the mile is overcome, curves of fifteen degrees to one hundred and fifty feet rounded, and Leadville reached, at an altitude of Io, 199 feet above sea level. The moon was shining brightly as the train drew A LITTLE SCRIMMAGE. 37 up at the Leadville depot, and the pilgrims alighted on the broad platform, being welcomed by the genial and hospitable George W. Cook, the host to whose tender mercies they had been assigned, and a whole “host” in himself he was, too. An Eastern man in days gone by, he had in the far West imbibed the whole-Souled freedom of the region ; was active, energetic and genial; knew Leadville from steeple to cellar, and was as ready to show it as the pilgrims were to see it. 'Busses were ready and soon filled, inside and out, and a start made for the city. Most of the party had previously formed an impression that Leadville wasn't principally peopled by Puritans, and this idea was rather strengthed by the first ocular evidence of amuse- ments of the Leadvilleans, in the shape of a regular knock-down and drag-out fight, occuring in front of a saloon opposite the depot, one of the participants in which was being very vigorously pounded and kicked as he floundered on the sidewalk, and was taking it in just as though he didn't object to it much, but perhaps would just as soon it would cease. What it was all about was not ascertained, as none of the natives seemed interested enough to enquire, and the pilgrims who might have enquired were whisked away rapidly in the 'busses and Soon out of sight. Dismounting at George Cook's office, a procession was formed and the tour of the city was made. The first place visited was the gambling establishment of “Pap Wyman," a large hall on one of the principal corners of the town, brilliantly lighted, and thronged with a crowd of about as tough a lot of citizens as one would not 38 CHE wAH ! WAH ! want to meet. Hard looking faces peered from beneath slouch hats, as the visitors made their way through the crowd. Here and there appeared the dark skin and long black hair of the Mexicano, with dark eyes flashing from under the wide-spreading rim of a sombrero. Red-shirted miners of all nationalities dotted this choice assemblage. There were a few old men, but very few, as men don't grow old in Leadville, and a great many young men and boys, whilst the majority were middle-aged, hardy, deter- mined-looking fellows, with resolution depicted in their faces and impecuniosity in their raiment. This was the room where the small games were going on, small stakes and Small gains or losses, principally the latter, and it was a repetition of the scenes of the Denver establish- ments of a similar nature. A rather stout, florid little man, of perhaps forty-five or fifty years of age, neatly dressed in a dark suit, with a shining silk hat set jauntily on his well-shaped head, makes his way through the crowd and is introduced as “Mr. Wyman.” He welcomes the gentlemen from the East, strikes up an old friendship with Billy Garty and some of the others who knew him in Boston, on the strength of which he sets up cham- pagne and everything else liberally, and tenders the party the freedom of his palace. The inner rooms, where heavy games are in process, are visited, numerous officials introduced, and then the procession moves to other places of interest. Perhaps it would be well to touch lightly upon the places of interest in question—the green-room of the “Carbonate,” the stage boxes at the opera house, the dancing party after midnight at the latter establishment, QUESTIONABLE PIETY. 39 and other entertainments—therefore, out of consideration for the friends of the party, the historian, who in his official capacity performed his duty faithfully and saw all there was to be seen, will touch the subject lightly and bring the wanderers back to Wyman's at about two o'clock, all of whom had seen Leadville in its many phases, and wanted to go to bed. Pap Wyman is a decided character in his way; he is accredited as being strictly “square" in all his games, or rather his games bear that reputation, as he himself never touches a card. He is highly respected by the preponder- ating classes of the place, is somewhat of a politician, and claims to exercise considerable influence, not only in the politics of the city, but of the state as well. His charity is proverbial, and he so seldom uses a “great big D,” that he feels he can with consistency rebuke it in others, therefore the glass front of the large clock hanging over his desk, in full view as you enter the establishment, bears the legend “Please do not swear.” On the railing outside his desk, is a black walnut, ecclesiastical-looking stand, on which rests a large Bible, always open, which might induce one to imagine that Pap was a kind of converted Harry Hill, and had backslidden. It is fair to presume, however, that such is not the case, as in talking with him he remarked: “You see that 'ere clock, Mr. Historian; well, it takes with some of 'em—a kind of gives a good air to the place. But as for that Bible, I'm a kind of superstitious on that subject, 'cos since I've had it I'll be d—d if I ever had such luck before ' " Leaving Pap and his establishment, the weary party started for the depot and the train; being all very much 4O CHE | WAH ! WAH ! elevated, however, Io,999 feet above the sea level, the rarity of the atmosphere was painfully apparent. Lungs got Sore as the easy hill was climbed ; the heavy men puffed and panted, and finally sat down to rest, only reaching the cars, at length, by dint of aid from the fresher ones, who arranged a sort of ambulance corps, and made trips back and forth until the last sufferer was taken into camp. MASSIVE MOUNTAIN, - LEADVILLE, COLORADO. HARRISON AVENUE, - LEADVILLE, COLORADO. º LEAVING LEAD VII, L.E. 4 I CHAPTER VI. MARSHALL PASS. ONDAY, October 23d, dawned in Leadville bright, clear and frosty, and all were astir at an early hour, notwithstanding the very few pre- vious hours of sleep. Senator Tap- pen was on deck, bright as usual, and took Occasion to address his constituents as he stood on the platform of his car, in his shirt-sleeves, a hair brush in one hand and buttoning his suspenders with the other. The rest of the party appeared, one by one, more or less sleepy, and after the scenery was blinked at, George Cook came down, breakfast was despatched, and a drive taken up to the “Robert E. Lee Mine,” and a few other leads of lesser note. The magnates “viewed the landscape ore,” and were then taken back to the depot, bade good-bye to their hospitable friends, and soon after IO o'clock were on their way down deep grades to the valley below. The trip of sixty miles down the valley lying to the eastward of the Saguache Range was one of unbroken interest as well as unbroken steepness of grade; the descent in that distance to Salida being upwards of 3,OOO feet. It seems steep, but is eclipsed, both in grade and curves, by one of the short branches of the road running 42 CHE wAH ! w AH ! from Hecla to Calumet, on which grades occur of four hundred and six feet to the mile, and curves of twenty- two degrees to one hundred feet ! At Hecla this branch was seen starting on its skyward career with such an exceeding upward tendency, that it might readily be taken for an air-line, short-cut road to the moon. At Salida, after considerable switching and shifting, the observation car and an extra locomotive were attached to the train, and shortly before 2 o'clock the pilgrims were off on another tack, so’-westerly by west, on the Utah division, and bound for Marshall pass. Again the observation car is filled, again the handkerchiefs are tied around heads and necks, and again the cinders fly; but cinders are unnoticed, as the novelty of the ride comes in. The course of the road lies for some distance along the Poncha River, but instead of following a little above the level of the stream, the steep grade takes you rapidly hundreds of feet above it. You still climb upward. Excelsior is the motto for the time being, and when you think you ought to be about high enough, you happen to look up the side of a huge mountain a mile or two high, almost overhanging you, see a railroad track running around its Summit, and are informed you'll soon be there if the couplings don't break. You involuntarily look a mile or so down in the other direction, and come to the conclusion that if the couplings do break, it wont take you many Seconds to get there. The road is a constant series of curves, climbing steadily upward around the sides of the lesser hills, skipping from one to another by means of substantial bridges, and from different points on the lower level you can look ABOVE THE CLOUDS. 43 upward and see three tiers of tracks climbing the moun- tain above you ; while from the upper level you can get a birds-eye view of the different tiers of track over which you have just come, involuntarily exclaiming, “Oh, ye tiers.” - If somebody doesn't kill you for the remark, you continue on, through Snow sheds and tunnels, curv- ing and twisting around the mountains So, that you feel like an eel, until at an elevation of Io,857 feet you reach a station built under a Snow shed, and are at Marshall Pass, on the Continental Divide. It would be useless to attempt to describe the magnificent view from this point, that is, from any point outside the snow shed. It seems like a birds-eye view of the rest of the world. You look over the tops of high mountains, at other mountains; valleys lie miles below you, and a soli- tary cloud, drifting between the peaks below, is mistaken for the steam of an ascending locomotive. Ouray moun- tain forms the northerly wall of the pass, and frowns down from a dizzy height, its peak being, perhaps, a couple of thousand feet nearer the clouds than the level of Marshall Pass station, which is but little below the “Timber line.” Uncompahgre mountain is seen seventy-five or eighty miles to the Southwest, the Cochetopa hills to the southward, and the Sangre de Christo range forms the eastern horizon. To the westward the sun shines, as it sets, on streams making their way down the valleys towards the Pacific Ocean, while the valleys to the eastward form the beds of rivulets whose waters ulti- mately reach the Atlantic, unless they evaporate on the marshes of the Mississippi before they get there. You 44 CHE wAH ! WAH ! are vividly reminded of the remark of an individual who, being on top of a high mountain, said he did not think he could get a half dollar between his head and the clouds, the reason being 'cos he hadn't got the half dollar. You hazard the same remark, only substituting a cigar for the coin, as your cigar case is empty. The old joke takes with Arthur Street and Garty, and they hand over enough cigars to last you back to Salida. The return trip is one of considerable excitement, and as you feel the train whizzing along down hill, the flanges of the wheels grating against the rails as you round a particularly sharp curve, and the brakes grating against the wheels, you cannot help involuntarily clutching hands a little more tightly, and wondering where you would bring up in case the engineer should lose control of the train, or the air brakes should fail to work, or a broken rail be encountered. But no engineer on this road has ever lost control of a train, no set of brakes ever failed to work in an emergency, no accidents have occurred through broken rails; and after a delicious Supper you are landed safely again at Salida, at 7:30. A short stop is made to change engines, and is taken advantage of by everybody to stretch their muscles by a vigorous walk to and fro on the platform in the brilliant moonlight. “All aboard "" is heard from the cheery conductor, and off they go again. After leaving Salida, a meeting was called in the sleeper “Toltec,” at which very neat and appropriate remarks were made by various gentlemen, expressive of the delightful experiences of the two days journeying on the Denver and Rio Grande Railway—pronounced by MOUNT OURAY, . MARSHALL PASS, COLORADO. THE PILGRIM'S TRAIN, - AT TRINIDAD, COLORADO: THANKS 45 every member of the party to be, as is claimed for it, “the Scenic route of America.” After the close of the remarks a committee was appointed, and the following resolution was reported and unanimously adopted: BE IT RESOLVED, that we hereby express the thanks of our party, as a party, and as individuals, to Mr. George W. Ristine, Assistant General Manager of the Denver and Rio Grande Railway, also to Mr. A. S. Hughes, General Freight Agent, and the gentlemen associated with them in the management of this excursion, for the ably planned and successfully conducted tour which has been made by us over the Denver and Rio Grande Railway, and to promi- nent and important points of interest along its lines. We will add that we are deeply impressed with the extent and completeness of the transportation facilities of this great road, and the wonderful resources of the country through which it extends, as well as by its hospitality and the courtesy of its officials. As the Grand Cañon is approached, the observation car, which remains at the rear end of the train, becomes the point of vantage for the party from which to view the cañon and the gorge by the silvery light of the moon, not a pale light either, for if ever the moon looked bright, double polished and burnished, it looks it now. The air is clear and frosty, and a blanket from the sleepers thrown over your knees adds to your comfort. The hills on either side draw closer to the bed of the Arkan- sas as it begins to dance in the moonlight and tumble Over rocks in its passage towards the cañon, the moun- tains close in on you, and then a scene is witnessed which for grandeur is probably not eclipsed on this continent. The huge mountainous rocks, seeming high 46 CHE | WAH ! wa H ! in the broad light of day, seem doubly high in the dark shadows and contrasting lights of the full moon. The sharp outlines of the cliffs touched with silvery light seem to be a portion of the upper world, the dark shadows of the caſion's depths denote relationship to the regions in the opposite direction, and the wildest dreams of Gustave Doré, transferred to form by his masterly pencil, are more than realized in hundreds of places in the gorge before you. Admiration is succeeded by wonder, wonder by awe, words fail to express the Sensation of the insignificance of man and the grandeur of the works of nature—you cannot speak | you are silent! Enough. Down the mighty chasm, following the cascades and rapids of the mountain stream, winding in and out, you pause for a moment at Grape Creek Junction, and in a few moments more are at Cañon City. You feel that you have passed through a panaroma of wonders, after Seeing which all other American scenery will seem tame and flat, and that the moonlight view of the Grand Cañon would alone have repaid you for a trip of a thousand miles. - The observation car was detached at Cañon City, and the journey continued to Pueblo, which was reached at about I I. This being the point at which the kind hospitalities of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad officials were to be exchanged for those of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad, the narrow gauge cars were taken leave of, and the train which had brought the party to Denver was found awaiting them at Pueblo, baggage transferred, and the old berths taken possession PERSONAL NOTES. 47 of. On the platform at Pueblo a welcome addition to the party was found, ready with bag and baggage, con- sisting of Messrs. H. C. Barlow, Assistant General Freight Agent, Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad, Topeka; J. S. Lazarus, General Western Agent, Merchants' Des- patch Transportation Co., Denver; W. N. Babcock, General Agent, Chicago & North Western Railroad, Denver; and Fred. Harvey, of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Hotel Department; but a loss was to be sustained by the branching off homeward of General Wadswith, James Mills, H. T. Gallup, and Senator Locke, whose company was much missed and absence regretted. Bowen also rejoined the party at Pueblo. He had joined them at Denver to go only to Leadville and return, but, as he related to the historian, found such a jolly party on board that he got off at Buena Vista, returned to Denver, made arrangements to be absent, and rejoined the pilgrims at Pueblo to take the rest of the trip with them. All being stowed away in their re- spective berths, the trains rolled off on the third grand division of the trip. 48 CHE wAH ! w AH ! CHAPTER. VII. AMONG THE “cow-Boys.” UESDAY, October 24th. Soon after leaving La Junta (LA-HUNTA) it was noticed with pleasure that the sky was as clear and the day as bright as any of the five pre- ceding it. The first stop was made at Trindad, which gave our special artist on the Spot an opportunity to take two or three photographs of the neighborhood and of the train, as the locomotive was taking in water, a big draught being necessary before its task of climbing the steep ascent to Raton. Pushing southward, the grade gets steeper and steeper, the track again winding around mountain sides, affording magnificent and extensive views of hills and valleys. Still in Colorado the train enters a dark tunnel at the summit ºf Raton Mountain, perhaps 1,500 feet in length. The scene is naturally obscured for the time being, tunnel scenery being rather limited at best, but daylight gleams at length, and returning vision reveals the first glimpse of New Mexico, a counterpart of the view from the other end of the tunnel certainly, but still it is New Mexico, probably the first “territory” ever entered by nine out of ten of the party, and as such duly appreciated. LOOKING EAST, TRINIDAD, COLORADO. --- LOOKING WEST, TRINIDAD, COLORADO. NEW MEXICO. 49 It is a goodly sized territory too, being three hundred and fifty miles from east to west, three hundred and forty-five to three hundred ninety-two from north to south, with an area of I 2 1,2O3 Square miles. It was ceded to the United States by Mexico in 1848, being a sort of arbitrary absorption, as it were, when the two governments were stilling their troubled pool. It was probably all arranged by pool commissioners, though history fails to record that either Midgley or Fink had anything to do in the matter. The descent from Raton was steep and rapid, numer- ous small towns being passed through, or paused at for a moment, and the Mexican characteristics become more and more apparent the further south the train sped. The first “cow-boy” is seen in his native wilds, SO to speak, On his mustang, lariette in hand, ready to lasso the first steer that attempted to escape from the balance of the lowing herd. He looks picturesque, but not pretty, and his wide sombrero, which serves the double purpose of hat and umberella, casts a shadow over himself and horse, accounting possibly for the reputation of most “cow-boys" being under a cloud. The rolling plateaus are dotted with thousands of cattle, the streams of clear cold water meander through fertile valleys, along which fields of maize and green pastures abound. Herds of horses, goats, and burros crop the meadows. Adobe houses are the only ones visible, and Pueblo Indians are met with at many of the stations. Prior to reaching Las Vegas, notice having been pre- viously given of the opportunity, most of the pilgrims might have been seen diving down into the depths of 4 - 50 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! their valises with the assiduity and perseverance of Cus- tom House officials, and hauling out, not dutiable goods, but soiled collars, cuffs, shirts, handkerchiefs, and other unmentionable articles which were to be left at that point for the laundry, to be delivered on the return trip when a halt was to be made at “The Montezuma.” Consequently when the train arrived at Las Vegas, a flat car was switched along-side, quickly loaded with packages of “laundry” varying in size from a pill box to a bass drum, and switched off again up to the hotel. Leaving Las Vegas and the packages, and continuing southward, dinner is enjoyed. Night draws on as Apache Pass is entered and hides the beauties of the Glorietta Mountains from view, and after an evening at whist, euchre, and draw, the melodious Sounds from the various berths indicate that sleep, gentle sleep, “nature's sweet restorer,” has soothed the pilgrims to rest, that red and white chips are forgotten, and that they are dreaming of home. - At Albuquerque the following message was received from Mr. Goddard, General Freight Agent of the Atchi- son, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad: GUAYMAS, October 26, 1882. H. C. BARLOW, on Special: The General Manager joins me in greetings to your party, regrets at not being able to meet you all at El Paso, and the hope that your trip will prove both healthful and pleasant. J. F. GODDARD. This was a disappointment to the members of the party, who had anticipated the pleasure of the company NO TAFFY. 5 I of the gentlemen named; but, fortunately, they had selected an excellent substitute, in the person of the genial Barlow, who, they can rest assured, took the best of care of the party and ably represented his company during the entire trip. 52 CHE wAH ! WAH ! CHAPTER VIII. IN A FOREIGN LAN ID. - EDNESDAY, October 25th. The changes having been rung on the different modes of expressing the fact that each day was clear and bright, it will be sufficient on this = Occasion to Say that this particular morning was ditto, only a little more so than the others. It seemed, as the train rolled down the valley of the Rio Grande del Norte, that the sun shone brighter, and the sky looked bluer and clearer that ever before ; even the waters of the stream, flowing smoothly and lazily along within a few rods of the track, seemed wetter; the green trees greener, and those of a yellowish tint more aesthet- ically yellow. “Rio Grande del Norte” is a name long enough for a stream wider than the Mississippi, and some such river being expected to make its appearance, it was with feelings somewhat tinged with disappointment that the little, half-dried-up stream by the track was pointed out as the river with the big name. In certain seasons of the year it probably swells to respectable proportions and earns its name, but October certainly isn't one of the months of Such Seasons. During the night Albuquerque had been passed, Isleta, Socorro, San Antonio, San Mar- “TEXAS SIFTINGS.” 53 cial and Rincon left behind, and ere long, Fort Filmore, the last of the points to be seen in New Mexico, was skirted, and the train rolled over into Texas. Fort Bliss appears on the banks of the stream, garrisoned by two companies of Uncle Sam's bronzed Indian fighters, and the gallant but lonely looking Sentries, as they paced up and down their well beaten paths, looked hungry and spoiling for a fight, a desire not likely to be gratified very speedily, as the Indians have been “whaled" out of that part of the country, too badly to return in a hurry, and our Mexican brethren are on too good terms to allow a disruption of existing amity. A little further on, and the train stops at El-Paso, Texas. As the train was to stop here for half an hour, or thereabouts, prior to crossing the boundary line into Mexico, an opportunity was given for the survey of the town, lying half a mile away under the shadow of a mountain, and looking, even at this time of the year, awfully warm, dusty and uncomfortable. A distant view of the town inspired in some of the party a wish to get a closer view, which was no Sooner expressed than grati- fied, an old 'bus, with four mules attached, being on hand, the Mexican driver of which courteously raised his Sombrero as he came up to the party, and said, “Feefti gentavo allo roundo" General Brown, who understood Spanish, said that the Caballero tendered the use of his vehicle to the illustrious party, and would take fifty gentlemen all around, and show them the town. The bus looked a little bit small for such a load, but about thirty availed themselves of the free ride, and climbed inside and on top of the old affair, which lurched and 54 CHE wAH ! WAH ! wabbled under the extreme pressure of the portly passen- gers. The mules tugged away as the driver cracked his whip, the dust rose in clouds, and the town was entered. Long rows of adobe buildings lined the streets, half hidden under the boughs of well leaſed Zi/as. Stores and dwellings jostled Chinese laundries. Dutchmen, Chinamen, Darkies, Indians, Mexicans and Americans formed the queer mixture of inhabitants, and from the roof of this bus it was difficult to tell which predomi- nated, Europe, Asia, Africa, or America. A stop was made at the “American Hotel,” the only two story building observed, and the explorers went through it literally, not phraseologically. Narrow doors opened from long, whitewashed halls, through walls two or three feet thick, into the cell-like bed-rooms, lighted—some with a tiny window, and Some with none at all—and the dim light of the only room entered showed furniture such as pertained to cheap lodging-houses in any American city, though time prevented, as inclination forbade, a very critical examination of the minor details, or pos- sible minor occupants. A hasty visit was made to the different departments of the establishment, culinary and otherwise, which were observed to be blended together with more unanimity, as it were, more sociableness, than accorded with cultivated taste. Outside the kitchen door a sad-eyed but happy and proud- ºf fº, looking old female burro was bending lovingly over a juve- nile specimen of its own kind, ** which the has/ero said had A YOUNG DOBE. - 55 been born at 4 o'clock that morning. It was a beau- tiful sight to see a creature of so few hours, and yet so great in ears, and some of the Pilgrims wanted to to buy it and take it home for a pet, but wiser counsels prevailed. A livery stable or corra/ was run in connec- tion with the hotel, and the strict business principles on which it was conducted were evident from a large sign, printed in two languages—the English part of which read: “Put up or shut up, wagons are cash ' " On driving back to the depot and alighting on the platform, the gentlemanly driver of the bus, the hospit- able Jehu of the party, demanded half a peso from each. The General was appealed to for explanation, and, after a private consultation, came back crestfallen, saying that the sordid individual instead of saying he would take fifty gentlemen all round, now said he offered his vehicle for ſ://y cen/s aſ/ 7-ound / It was paid, and the General subsequently liquidated all round. A few moments later Henry Vilas went up to a group of friends and began relating what he had seen, and told them of the curiosities he had met with in El Paso, and ended up with : “But the darnedest thing we saw, boys, was a dobe just born / only five hours old !” A shout of laughter rang out in the morning air, was wafted along the platform, aye, even reached across the Rio Grande, and the fame of the five hour old dobe has crossed the continent even to the Pueblo of Buffalo. At El Paso the whole-souled and genial friend of everyone in the party, Frank L. Parker, “Agente General de Flete y Pasajeros del Ferro-Carril Central Mexicano,” met his friends from the East with a hearty 56 CHE wAH ! WAH ! welcome on behalf of his Ferro-Carril, as well as person- ally. He looked brown and hearty, and in his wide sombrero and bronzed complexion it required a Second glance to identify the Caballero before you with the trim Bostonian who a few months before had been banqueted by a host of friends, on his departure for the mesas and szerras of Mexico. Mr. C. R. Williams, General Freight Agent of the Atlantic & Pacific Rail- road, of Albuquerque, New Mexico, also joined the party here, and formed a very agreeable addition to the number. The train pulls out towards the river, a few hundred yards across a sandy stretch of bottom land, then over a short bridge with custom house Sentry boxes at the South end, gazing out of the doors of which appear brigandish looking officials, armed with a butcher knife, revolvers the size of young cannon, and cartridge belt . stocked with ammunition enough to last through a small revolution, the Rio Grande del Norte is safely crossed, and the devoted little army (all officers) is in Mexico. The brief stay at Paso del Norte prevented any ex- tended inspection of the town, but served to reveal here and there, through the low trees and shrubbery, a large number of lower adobe houses and patches of garden within adobe walls, while overlooking all was one of the most picturesque and ancient looking little churches yet seen, its bright walls and low, white" tower standing out in strong relief against the dark background of the distant mountains. The fine substantial depot and office building of the Mexican Central Railroad was admired CITYDRUGSTORE |TFE- -------> - ºr rºº RATON, NEW MEXICO. EL PASO, TEXAS, OVER THE BORDER. 57 with its /º/acºta or interior Court yard, in which luxuriant plants were growing, watered by the spring from a little fountain playing in the centre, the liquid music of which fell as gratefully on the ear as the reflection of the sun fell ungratefully on the eye. The offices opening on all sides from the //ac2/a were comfortable and spacious, and that of Frank Parker was as cheerful, cool, and airy as any in the American cities. The kitchen attached to the dining-room was also culinary. Groups of Mexicans were on the platform, and in the waiting room the first Mexican ladies and children were seen, evidently on their first railroad trip—the large, dark, lustrous eyes of the senoras expressing wonder and surprise at the new sur- roundings, and the mºnas shrinking away from new faces and unfamiliar objects. But little time was allowed for the cultivation of acquaintance, as the hissing noise of the air-brakes denoted preparation for starting, the “all aboard” was heard, and at I I o'clock the train moved off rapidly, bound for Chihuahua. The day was decidedly warm, and it got warmer as the green strip bordering the Rio Grande was left behind and the white, dusty sand of the desert reflected back the sun's rays. For a hundred miles the road runs through a desert country, sparse in vegetation and barely able to sustain the little that there is. The dazzling whiteness of the surface is unbroken Save by the chaft/ara/ and muskeeſ growing sparsely in Some places, and in others covering a large portion of the ground. No traces of water can be discovered, springs are as few and as far apart as on the Sahara, and the old stage road, traversing the Sterile plain, took the zig-zag course of a crooked 58 CHE wAH ! WAH ! Virginia Snake fence, dodging along from one watering place to another, until it reached the more fertile mesas, where /agizmas and 7-zos abound. This region was the scene of the depredations of that murderous old aborigine, Victoria, within a year or two, and the various localities are fertile with taſes of massacres and blood-curdling adventures, the only thing, by the way, in which the region is fertile. For seventy-five miles no water is to be seen, but at length a small lake appears in view to the eastward, bearing the refreshing name of Zagalma des Patos, or Lake of the Ducks. The brief stops made at San Jose, Ojo Caliente, Montezuma and Other points, enable the botanists and entomologists to gather specimens in those branches of science, and they come back to the train laden with spears from the curious looking Spanish bayonet plant, which looks like a hedge- hog on a pedestal, dried up desert buttercups, curious bunches of leaves like the English holly, only drier than anything ever got in England, cactus leaves and Spikes, black grasshoppers, with bodies an inch and a half long adorned with red and yellow stripes, horned toads that run instead of hop, and keep a man going at a lively gait to keep up with them ; in fact everything, except tarantulas and centipedes, which, by good fortune (for both entomologists and specimens), keep out of the way, and are not gathered in. - But at length the mesas grow greener, little streams begin to ripple down the sloping foot-hills, trees dot the valleys, herds of cattle and sheep graze on the verdant pastures, ranches become more numerous, and you again feel that you are inside the limits of the abode of man. A TONEY PASTORAL. 59 The lands of Mexico are principally held in large /aczendas, where they are worth holding at all. This par- ticular tract is owned by his Excellency Luis Terrazas, Governador del Estadº de Chihuahua, and is in the neighborhood of eighty me?/es square. To show the great gulf that lies between that illustrious gentleman and the poor-house it may be mentioned that the rancheros on his Excellency's estates have the care of 40,000 head of cattle, 150,000 head of sheep, and that he has a contract for furnishing the Mexican government with beef to the value of $85,000 per month. While pondering over the possibilities of a man pos- sessed of such domains, the Sun sinks in the west, behind red and orange clouds; at the same time the silvery moon rises in the opposite direction, Over th; dark blue Sierras skirting the valley; “lowing herds wind slowly O'er the lea,” in the gray twilight, towards the most eſegy-ble shelter for the night; the sable mantle is drawn o'er the landscape and pinned with a star; lights twinkle from the barred windows of the ranches, and nature is at rest. You have, perhaps, been asleep for half an hour, when Tappen shouts, “there are the lights of Chihuahua!” All are in a bustle in a moment, best bibs and tuckers are adjusted, the train stops, and the mecca of the Pilgrims, Chihuahua, is reached. It was intended to form an imposing procession on alighting from the train, to make an impression on the natives assembled, by putting some of the heavy and handsome members of the party at the head and grading the rest down according to size; but unfamiliarity with the locality interfered with the scheme—some got out on 6O CHE | WAH ! WAH ! One side, and some on the other; those who got out on One side got ankle-deep into fine dust, and those who got Out on the other side tumbled over empty grocery boxes and oyster cans, a circumstance, which took the dignity Out of the thing, and compelled them, when they did reach the platform, to struggle past the populace, one by one and two by two, in less regular order than the “animiles” went into the ark. Carryalls were found waiting near the platform, and the party were driven to the city, a mile distant, along a camāna or sort of country road, fording a shallow and clear stream, the water of which came up to the hubs of the wheels, then through a series of narrow streets lined with low one-story buildings, the doors and grated windows of which opened flush with the narrow sidewalk, and they entered the AE/aza. Pausing in th.” narrative of the pilgrim's progress, - perhaps it would be profitable to give a few hints in regard to Chihuahua, to any person who, not being fortunate enough to have accompanied the party on this trip, has been unfortunate enough to have picked up this book to find out where they were and what they did while they were away. A picturesque range of mountains runs from northwest to Southeast, and bears a name which, try as he would, the historian failed to get spelled or pronounced by any two natives alike ; and as honesty is the best policy, he forbears to manufacture a name, for fear of being found out. At the base of the highest peak of the range in question, Chihuahua, unlike the historian, lies. The city having been started by Spaniards about the year 1600, for a wonder the streets are mostly laid out at right OLD CHURCH, - PASO DEL NORTE, MEXICO. FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 6 I - angles and as straight as circumstances will permit, though occasionally a bend in the stream which runs through the city appears to have induced the city engineers of the period to make a corresponding jog in the street; but in this respect it beats Boston by a large majority, and its map is a checkerboard compared, with that of the capital of the Old Commonwealth. The first thing that strikes a stranger on entering the city is the uniformity of the appearance of the buildings, the narrow cobble-paved Streets, narrower sidewalks of well worn slabs of Stone, and the absence of any attempt at ornament or attractiveness. Except in rare cases, nothing can be seen but one-story buildings of adobe, having a white finish resembling stucco, narrow doors opening directly from the sidewalk, and prison-like win- dows barred with rods of iron ; no shade trees are to be seen ; Sprinkling carts appear not to have been dreamed of, and to tell the honest truth the first impression of the outward and visible parts of the city are not favorable. Shortly, however, you turn into the Plaza, where an exceedingly pleasant view meets your eye, in the shape of a little park, two or three acres in extent, covered with handsome shade trees and thick shrubbery, sur- rounded by a wide stone walk, and having in the centre a large fountain which never ceases playing. It would be rather rough on many of the inhabitants if it did, as at all hours of the day men, women and children are seen bearing curious-looking earthenware jars, pots or bottles to this old fountain, filling them from the spacious basin Surrounding it, and carrying them away, generally on their heads. 62 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! 0. One of the sources of the water Supply of the city is a stone aqueduct built a great many years ago, probably about 1718 or 1720, when the population of the place was 70,000 and mining stocks were booming. This aqueduct brings a supply of clear, cold water from the mountain, seven or eight miles, to the suburbs of the town, where spouts are arranged for what may be called the wholesale department of the water-works system ; carts and barrels are filled there and large supplies drawn. A small pipe is laid thence to the fountain in the Plaza, from which you observed the retail consumers filling their vessels or taking a cooling drink. They are very careful in dipping the water from the basin not to stir it up or drop into it any uncleanly objects; even champoo- ing their heads in it is discouraged by the authorities. The mountain water is carted around the city and sold for one 4/aco a pailful, with a liberal discount for large quantities. Well-water is not a success as a beverage in this region, and though in most of the better class of residences old fashioned stone wells are seen in one corner of the //ac2/a, the water drawn from them is used for washing and other similar purposes. - Looking down on the AE/aza, and Occupying one side of the Square opposite, is the Cathedral, a large stone edifice, one of the most imposing buildings of the kind on this continent, and towering as it does away above the low buildings around it, its height is greatly increased by the comparison. It was built during the first quarter of the eighteenth century, the cash being furnished by an assessment or tithe of six and one-fourth cents on every eight Ounces of silver produced by the great Santa CHIH UAH U A CATH EDIRAL. 63 4. Eulalia mine, which at that time must have been a bonanza, as the Small tithe in question yielded the $800,000 needed to pay for the Cathedral. The exterior of the building is elaborately carved with all sorts of ecclesiastical devices, which have crumbled enough to show their age, but not to mar their beauty. The tºwers, two in number, are shapely and proportionate, and con- tain half a dozen bells, on which the hours of the day and night are struck in quarters, and a large clock above the main entrance indicates the time with standard fidelity. The interior of the Cathedral is imposing; heavy clus- tered columns and vaulted roof give it a massive appear- ance; Small windows let in a kind of dim religious light, by which the gorgeous altar and the large oil paintings around the walls can be indistinctly seen after coming in from the bright Sun. The floor is of hard wood, well worn by the feet of generations of worshipers, and being laid in regular panels with small sunken handles, and each panel numbered, you shudder as you realize you are walking over the bones of goodness knows how many departed ecclesiastical dignitaries. You look in vain for the “àir ſaret” so and so ; the dignitary of a century ago is now known, perhaps, as “Number 940.” Sic 'ransit g/oria mund; / One of the bells of the Cathedral has a peculiar cracked Sound, which is accounted for by the fact that in 1866 the Imperial party, or adherents of the unfor- tunate Maximilian, had possession of Chihuahua. Luis Terrazas, the same governor who now administers, the affairs of the state, was a vigorous republican and objected 64 CHE wAH ! WAH ! on general principles to foreign princes lording it over the freemen of Mexico. He gathered together all the forces available between Paso del Norte and Chihuahua, marched on the latter place, Surrounded it, and requested the French and their sympathizers to a//ez. The latter declined, and some of them climbed up into the towers of the Cathedral to see what the governor was going to do about it. They soon ascertained, for no sooner had his excellency received their reply than he loaded up an old cannon that he happened to have with him and let off one for luck in the direction of the city. The cannon ball whizzed over the tops of the houses, went through one of the Cathedral tower windows, punched a hole through the bell, knocked a Frenchman out through the window on the other side, and cut a lanyard, letting down the imperial flag. It is needless to add that it wasn't long before a white flag was up in its place, the Republic was saved, but the bell was cracked. Unhappy Maximilian his experiment in acting the part of an American Emperor was an unfortunate one. Louis Napoleon got him into the scrape, withdrew his forces from him when he found it desirable to do so, left him in the lurch when the Mexicans captured him at Queretaro, and on June 19th, 1867, he was shot. On the opposite side of the square, across the Plaza, is situated the City Hall, a long building, one story high, like nearly all the others in the city, and having in front of it a sort of arched porch with a somewhat sub- dued attempt at Ornamentation. The offices are small and not extravagantly supplied with daylight, but the space is probably sufficient, as the officials are not as WAGON MOUND, NEW MEXICO. - BURROS ON THE WAY TO MARKET. CH|HUAHUA, MEXICO. THE EFFECTS OF “MESCAL.” 65 numerous as in American cities, Mayor Zubiran and eight councilmen attending to the city business, while the state legislature, which meets in the same building, consists of thirteen members. One of the entrances to the city building leads directly into the prison, and the historian happening to pass by as an exceedingly inebri- ated Mexicano was being “run in " by a brace of policemen, followed to see what they did with such fellows in Mexico. They didn't even take time to “book” him, but shot him into a dungeon or cooler with a few air holes bored in the door, turned a huge key, and started off for more game. Mexican whiskey must be awful stuff, as it is the custom to keep a drunk- ard in the cooler for two weeks before he is considered fit for trial. The soldiers stationed at Chihuahua are not particularly neat or attractive in appearance, their dirty-white uniforms and general slouchiness not impressing a visitor very favorably with the discipline exercised in the Mexican army. They might at least keep step in marching along a public street, but they don't ; each man Selects his own time and step, and sticks to it regardless of his comrades. The officers of the regiment are fine, handsome looking fellows, and in their neat-fitting uniforms might be mis- taken for American army officers in fatigue dress; but few of the latter have the exceedingly small feet and hands of the Mexicans, a most noticeable feature in their hand- Some Zozef enseſ/26/e. Doubtless a thousand instructing objects and peculiar customs could be observed in this queer old city, and doubtless a great many were seen by individual members 5 66 CHE wAH ! WAH ! of the party, which were not related for history; but time for observation, noting, and collecting information was limited, so we will return to the pilgrims whom we left just as they had reached the Plaza. The rendezvous was the United States hotel, a portly, two-story building facing the Plaza, and diagonally across the street from the City Hall. A large crowd of citizens had congregated, the Plaza was brilliantly illuminated, and as each carriage deposited its load of Americans on the ca//e in front of the hotel, a cheer rent the air, to which the dignified effºrangeros responded by gracefully raising their somóreros. The concert to be given on the Plaza by the band of the Eleventh Mexican infantry, in honor of the party, was not to begin for an hour or two later, SO little parties were made up and went off in different directions, to see what was to be seen by moonlight and lamplight; some alone, and some under the guidance of hospitable residents who were kind enough to take them in charge. Charlie Case captured a bright boy the moment he landed, and was going to impress him into Service as a guide, but the boy could not speak English, Charles' early education in Spanish had been neglected, and the bargain fell through. A party of three gentlemen, consisting of the genial representative of the Chicago, Galveston & Kalamazoo Railroad, Charlie Eddy; the handsome and distinguished caballero who looks after the interests of the Merchants' Despatch in Boston, Duke Townsend; and the individual from Rochester who wielded the historian's Faber, were fortunate in being presented to two Chihuahua gentlemen and R—, who invited of high standing, Senors F \ AT THE CASINO. 67 them to the Caszzzo or club, an invitation gladly accepted. Proceeding a square or SO from the Plaza a door was opened from the sidewalk, and the party were ushered into a wide, stone-paved hall, which led directly to the //acita. One of the peculiarities of Mexican architect- ural arrangement is, that instead of gardens surrounding the houses, the houses surround the gardens; the rooms being arranged around the //acita in quadrilateral form, all opening inwards, and having no exterior windows except those on the street side. The reading room of the Casino, at the left of the hall, was found to be a large, handsomely furnished room with rich carpets and up- holstery, excellent engravings on the walls, and a long centre table on which lay numerous magazines and periodicals. Adjoining it was the large ball room, with rich curtains and massive lambrequins to all the arched entrances from the //acita, linen covering to the carpet, handsome chandeliers, and a large Square grand piano of Baltimore make. The Duke is an excellent pianist, and by general request manipulated the ivories in a few brilliant cavatinas, Sonatas, reveries, nocturnes, &c., which were received, as they deserved, con mucho gusſo. The bowling alley, an American innovation, was visited and the visitors invited to roll; but fearful of not acquitting themselves there as well as the Duke had at the piano, they declined, and passed on to the billiard room where the gentlemen were playing, several of whom courteously ten- dered their cues; but again lack of confidence prevented an acceptance; Eddy hadn't touched a cue since he was a boy in Kalamazoo, the Duke didn't know a “pocket” from a massé, and the scribe had sworn off five years ago, 68 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! so they passed into the smaz/arzo adjoining ; here they received an invitation which none could refuse—they accepted—and wiping from their respective mustaches the foam of Samſa Zuz's ſagaar, they adjourned to the //ac2/a. By moonlight the //ac2/a of the Casino is one of the most picturesque places imaginable. The Soft light streams down from the starry canopy of heaven and bathes the trees and tropical plants in silver; shadows are cast by luxuriant Sago palms, Orange trees and pom- egrantes; a bronze fountain sends jets of crystal water high in the air, which, breaking, catch the moonbeams as they fall and form a lunar rainbow in their myriad particles. The yellow light streams out from the open doors and archways of the surrounding rooms, turning all it touches into gold; caged birds sing the wild songs of nature, and as if to complete the enchanting effect, the liquid notes of a mandolin are wafted from a shaded corner nook. Lost in rapture, the historian was about to broke the rush for the mandolin when Senor F. Spell by kindly inviting the party to his house, and thither they went after being politely tendered the hos- pitalities of the Casino during their stay in the city. The residence of the Senor was only four or five squares distant, but was just far enough to encounter eight or ten small parties of the pilgrims, who joined the others as they passed along, not knowing where they were going, and when they stopped at the entrance of the residence it must have been rather trying to hospitality to turn and find about thirty guests ready to enter and be shown the house where three had been invited; but Mexican courtesy was equal to the Occasion, and all were made welcome. A MEXICAN RESIDENCE. 69 The general plan of the house was similar to that of the Casino, the beautiful ?/ac2/a with its trees, shrubs and flowers, and rooms on all four sides. A covered piazza, furnishing a delightful spot for the afternoon sies/a, extended around three sides of the interior walls; the various rooms, parlors, bed rooms and dining room having doors leading out to its cool shades; water spouts projected inwards from just below the edge of the roof, eight or ten feet apart, in rainy Seasons as much of the water as desired, being allowed to SOak into the ground of the //acáza, the balance being caught in earthern jars and conveyed to the cistern and kept, not for a rainy day but for a dry one. Indian servants crouched here and there in retired shadowy corners, motionless as statues and wrapped in the inevitable seraža or blanket, and now and then a shadowy form could be seen slowly moving from one part of the building to the other, but all were domestics, the family of the Senor being absent. The party passed through the parlors, dining room and One or two of the bed rooms, all of which were hand- somely furnished in much the same style as in American residences, save that in the parlors the books, paintings and little ornaments were fewer, and that in the sleeping apartments the bedsteads were of solid brass with rich ornamentation, which, with the bright colored silk cover- lets, lent a royal appearance to the couches. After leaving the residence of the courteous Senor, the party repaired to the Plaza, which by that time was found to be thronged with the Senoras, Senoritas and Cabelleros of the old city. Few will forget the enchant- ment of the scene; the moon shining down with a flood 7O CHE wAH ! WAH ! of bright silver light, hundreds of lamps in and around the P/aza adding their mite to the brilliancy; the stone walks thronged with promenaders, and the settees occu- pied by their full quota of loungers of all classes. As the Cathedral clock struck half past nine the band struck up a lively march, the first bars of which revealed the fact that it was a well-trained band, and one that could have put to the blush many similar organizations in the States. During the various pieces that were played, the mem- bers of the party strolled around the Plaza and observed the different phases of Mexican society. Dark-eyed Senoritas, always accompanied by a watchful senora as chaperone, promenaded in parties of two to half a dozen, chatting with each other in a lively manner, seldom even favoring the admiring Americans with even a glance, and then only a sort of carom glance, as though they had been used to seeing good-looking fast-freight men all their lives, their eyes again wandering off with a kind of want-something-better expression which wasn't gratifying to vanity; but the dazzling darts from their bewitching eyes were very effective, in fact more so than whole broadsides would have been, and it was the general ver- dict that the ladies of Chihuahua were beautiful, and as modest and well-behaved as beautiful. Few caballeros promenaded in company with the senoritas, but, with their seražas thrown over one shoul- der and held there with one hand, and somóreros casting a dark shadow over their dark faces, they strode along with slow and melancholy gait, looking as stately, Solitary and sombre as the ghost of Hamlet's father. Fred Cross stumbled on One of them unexpectedly emerging from TILL MID NIGHT. 7 I the shadow of a tree in a lonely part of the P/aza, and it was rich to see him dodge to the other side of the walk, looking over his shoulder and keeping his eye on the phantom until it was Out of sight. After enjoying the music and the delightful surround- ings, the eſrangeros dropped away in small parties, the residences of several prominent gentlemen were visited by invitation and hospitalities received, and at midnight they again assembled at the Plaza, where carryalls were in waiting to convey them to the depot. The roll was called, and all responded Save a few ; but an inspection of the list of missing ones was made, and it was generally conceded that they knew how to take care of themselves, so no uneasiness was felt regarding them. The carriages rolled off to the train, and the tired tourists were soon dreaming of-what? home 2 or the dark eyes of the Senoritas of Chihuahua P. Echo fails to answer, declin- ing to give them away. An incident occurred in connection with the drive to the train which illustrates, probably as well as any other connected with the trip, the courtesy and delicacy of the Mexican gentlemen. Henry Barlow and another gentle- man were waiting on the AE/a2a for a vacant place on One of the stages, but Seeing a two-seated carriage behind the last stage with only a Mexican driver in charge, they jumped into it and told him to vamoose. He turned gently, and replied in Spanish something about “Car- rambo” which they didn't understand. Just then the Mexican gentlemen came up, began to talk to the driver and then to laugh. The pilgrims were about to alight, fearing a slight mistake had been made, but one of the 72 CHE wAH ! WAH ! - Mexicans insisted on their retaining their seats; the driver got down, the three gentlemen crowded into the front seat and drove them to the train. The Americans apologized for their evident mistake before leaving the carriage, which happened to be a private one, but were good-naturedly informed by one of the gentlemen, who spoke good English, that it was a pleasure, and that, “Seeing a mistake had been made, they thought they would take a drive to the depot, the night being so fine!” Without any desire to do injustice to American courtesy, it would be interesting to know how often foreigners making a similar mistake in the States would be treated as kindly. Methinks that in nine cases out of ten they would take a walk instead of a drive, no matter how “fine a night” it might happen to be. But how fares it with the innocents left in the city 2 Probably their full adventures will never be told, but a portion of them leaked out, sifted, as it were, through the sieve of reticence, and one of the siftings is worth relating: Weed, Babcock, Geagen and Lazarus, after wandering off from the P/aza, got lost, or something, and didn't find their way back until long after midnight, when the remainder of the party had departed, the band had hushed its notes, the //a2a was deserted, and no carriages, not even a burro, in sight. They fain would have walked to the train, but didn't know the way, and were afraid of being murdered if they did ; so the only alternative was to trust themselves to the tough mercies of the Comido de/ / stados On?dos. Entering, they appealed to the landlord for lodgings, and by signs attempted to make their errand known. It was hard CATHEDRAL, - CH|HUAHUA. FOUNTAIN IN THE PLAZA, CH|HUAHUA. RED, RED GORE 73 work to explain by signs, but finally, after one of them got down on the floor and went through a dumb show of being asleep in bed, the thick-headed landlord “took,” SO to Speak. He lit two tallow torches, led them to the story above, and, after traversing some gloomy corridors, ushered Weed and Babcock into one room and Geagen and Lazarus into another not far off. They surveyed the apartments, and found some few discomforts There were sheets on the Straw mattresses, but no blankets, and on inquiring for those necessaries, the host made them understand that every gentleman in Mexico car- ried his own blankets with him. There were no washing materials in the rooms, no windows, and slat doors, with- out locks, opening into the dark corridor. Weed and Babcock went to bed in their clothes, omitting the usual formality of taking off their boots. Geagan and Lazarus were about to do likewise, when they discerned through the gloom that there was a door leading into the next room ; it wasn't locked, and they thought they would see that all was safe in that direction. Opening the door, one of them had just got inside when he was Scared out of his wits by a big Mexican yelling “Ho! la " He jumped back, slammed the door, seized his mattress and bolted for the corridor, upsetting his friend over the candle, and leaving him to follow in the darkness with his bedclothes as quickly as he could pick himself up. They brought up in Weed and Babcock's room in about a second, with hair standing on end, Swearing that they were not going to sleep alone in that room with a couple of blanked bandits in the next, put their bedclothes on the floor, and slept during as much of the remainder of 74 CHE wAH ! WAH ! the night as their visions of bandits would permit. They had an early breakfast in the morning at the hotel, and were surprised to find two other friends of at the table; but their disgust can be imagined when those friends began to relate how ſ/hey were awakened during the night by a couple of Mexican cutthroats, who had come into their room probably to murder them, but had been scared away by a shout. Silence fell the big four; they did not give themselves away just then, but the two victims of the fierce Mexicans in the adjoining room would have sold themselves for a //aco. Hazy stories were in circulation as to the other wan- derers getting locked out of the hotel; sleeping on benches on the Plaza, with naught but the starry canopy of heaven over them (a pretty thin covering); buying up all the policemen on duty not to take them to the dungeon cell; and other little diversions. But reaching the historian in garb of too many different colors, they are relegated to oblivion. A NOVEL SALUTATION. 75 CHAPTER IX. CHIH U A HUA TO PASO DEL NORTE. K. º. *śt HURSDAY, October 26. Through : R&Zºº). y - G. --→ ſº ** a clear sky aurora smiled from the s:##$$$$. - - §§ $º eastern horizon, and peeping through tºº the chinks in the windows of the §§l % - - - - - º º cars, ray-sed the pilgrims from their %lº §% Fº pillows. A copius ablution in the º #|| º l \, cool and refreshing Chihuahua / uater brought them out as fresh as daisies, and ready for another day of sight Seeing and jollification. An early breakfast was enjoyed by the early birds, and repairing to the depot close by, a train was standing on the track, filled with passengers ready to leave for the north, a number of ladies and children being among them. A novelty in the shape of salutation and adieu was observed among the arriving and departing Mexi- cans: a one-armed embrace, each participant leaning forward with the head over the other's shoulder, and patting the back of the other with one hand; of course Charley Case was the first to get the hang of it and much to the amusement of the Mexicans looking out of the car windows, practiced the salutation on each new arrival from the breakfast car. Some of the party remained to entertain at breakfast a few Chihuahua gentlemen who had been invited, and the 76 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! remainder drove off to the city, in carriages. Along the road an immense number of burros were overtaken on their way to the market; some ridden by their owners, and Some driven in packs; but each one, whether ridden or driven, bearing a load large enough for a mule. Some were completely hidden by huge loads of maize stocks and leaves, and looked like animated corn shocks; others had huge panzeros piled up high with fruit and vegeta- bles, with a big lazy Greaser sitting between them; others had whole wood yards of fine cut cordwood piled and Corded on their backs, and some of the poor little beasts actually bore along two telegraph poles each, the heavy end of each pole being supported in place of the /anzeros on their sides, by a strap Over their backs, the lighter ends dragging along on the ground behind. Burros' frail-looking legs must be made of iron, other- wise it is doubtful if they could stand the tests to which they are subjected. It would take volumes to describe all that was seen in the shortest possible space of time. The market place was one of the principal points of interest, early in the morning. A large building, higher than the ordinary structures of the city, surrounds an entire Square. Shallow stores occupy the exterior, and at the centre of each side a high archway indicates the entrance to the market place. Outside each entrance herds of burros stand with /anzeros emptied for the retail market inside, or loaded for sale outside by the cargo. None of them are tied, there being no danger of their running away. Burros have a great genius for rest, and don't go when they “don’t have to.” - |NTERIOR OF MARKET, . CHI HUAHUA. Spiers can be distinguished from the Mexicans by the green cotton umbrella that he carries in his hand. THE MARKET. 77 + - 78 CHE wAH ! WAH ! Passing in through one of the large entrances, a curious scene meets the eye, resembling in many points the market places or bazaars to be seen in Cairo, Alexandria and other Oriental cities. Dark-skinned men and women, Mexicans and Indians, are seated on rugs, with their stock in trade spread out on mats before them. Some have vegetables, potatoes the size of a large hickory nut, Sweet potatoes peeled, cooked and dipped in molasses, onions as large as Small pumpkins, etc., etc.; others have stacks of Žiſions and apples built in columns, one on the other, as high as they will stand. Others have live chickens and ducks Squawking in pairs; and it is a curious fact that whilst alive these useful domestic birds bring a higher price than when killed and dressed, twenty //acos (thirty cents) being the price per pair whilst alive, and ten or twelve //acas when ready for the table ! All sorts of native products are for sale in small quantities, and between the small patches occupied by the venders the purchasers walk and make their selections. In one corner of the Square is a dark general store, where, among other things, peculiar looking nests of bas- kets were for sale, and during the morning almost every pilgrim in the party purchased a pair—one fitting over the other and Serving as a cover—in which to carry home curiosities. An inventory of the purchases made that morning would be a curiosity in itself: C & garros, - pottery, Onyx Ornaments, photographs, more cºg arros, more pottery, parrots, puppies, mocking birds; and one jolly genius actually bought a burro / He was coming out of the market place early in the morning, and meet- ing on the Street one of the tough little animals in IN THE MARKET. 79 question, bearing a big load of “garden Sass” and fruit, and a big Mexican astride of him with his knees over the load, it occurred to P- that the arrangement looked a little top-heavy; he gave it a hunch, and over went the whole outfit, produce, Mexican and burro, in a sprawling heap. The Mexican was very naturally mad, in fact very belligerent, and was going to jump on P−, who was holding his sides in laughter; but before any blood was spilt, the gentle pilgrim inquired, through an interpreter, how much the whole outfit was worth, burro and all. The Mexican was considerably taken aback, but said ten Aesos, out came a roll of bills, a ten dollar greenback was handed him, and P the only “dobey” was the sole proprietor of pardon the error, burro–in the party. He treated the crowd to fruit, sweet potatoes and corn, and, when the whole load was gone, gave the burro back to the Original owner, and pursuéd his perry-patetic course in search of more fun. During the morning about every object of interest in the city was visited, the barracks of the Eleventh regi- ment, the Cathedral, the city buildings, and the mint, where bright silver dollars were being punched out of long strips of silver, stamped and milled. A peculiar looking monument of elongated pyramidal form stands near the mint, which on inquiry was found to be that of Don Miguel Hidalgo Castillo, who in 1810 attempted one of the revolutions for which Mexico was noted. Unfortunately for him, he was defeated, and attempted to escape to the United States, but being betrayed into the hands of the authorities before he reached there, he was executed at Chihuahua on 8O CHE | WAH ! WAH ! July 27th, 1811, on the spot where the monument now Stands. Noon came around too fast for most of the party, but at that hour they all assembled at the P/a2a and were driven to the train, some in carryalls and some in the private carriages of gentlemen who had kindly placed them at the disposal of the etrangeros dºs/?ngzzendos. On arriving at the depot, it was found that a number of Mexican ladies and gentlemen had been invited down to See the train, and be shown the luxuries and conveniences contained in a Pullman Palace, as well as in a C. B. & O. dining car. The party consisted of about fifty Senoras and Senoritas and half a dozen gentlemen, all numbered among the elite of Chihuahua. The ladies were—well, it is no use mincing matters—they were captivating, every One of them, and every man in the party, unless he hap- pened to be an iceberg or a stick (and there wasn't one there), was captivated. It wasn't necessary to call for volunteers to show the dark-eyed beauties through the cars. The moment the situation was taken in there was a general rush for the cars, and each Senorita had from One to five guides, according to her degree of beauty. Deacon Kendall even took off his linen duster, put on an extra nice tie to his cravat, fixed up his stateroom and placed an elegant boguet on the table. All the boys, in fact, did their best to be sociable and attentive to the young ladies as well as to the elderly ones; and consider- ing the fact that they couldn't speak a word of Spanish, and the Senoritas couldn't speak a word of English, they got along remarkably well, and conversed intelligibly by /oo/*ing in Several different languages. THE PLAZA, - CH|HUAHUA. THE PLAZA, - CHI HUAHUA. (Street Scene at the Left.) AMERICAN CAPTIVES. 8 I After being shown through the entire train the ladies and gentlemen were invited to take lunch on the “Brevoort,” and accompany the party on their journey as far as Encinillas, forty or fifty miles from Chihuahua, where a south-bound train would be met to take them safely home again. The Senoras hesitated, objected and held out for a long time; but, by coaxing, and teasing, and caressing, the younger ladies (each Americano wished himself a Senora) finally carried the day, and the entire party accepted the invitation. Soon after the train started lunch was Served in the dining car, and was a decided success, the waiters, “for this occasion only,” being half a dozen of the best looking and most active young American OS, who showed a great aptitude for the pleasant task, but who occasionally forgot that they were waiters, and drank wine with the guests! After lunch, the scene in the Official car was lively in the extreme. The dark-eyed ladies, in their rich dresses of silk, satin or velvet, and the handsome Mexican gen- tlemen, chatted amongst themselves in an animated manner, or with their entertainers, by means of inter- preting friends, in a manner which was equally animated, and in which the dark eyes in question played a very prominent part. The susceptible, genial Tappen was, Žar erce//ence, the beau of the party, and if any one more than another can be credited with the possession of the cake, he is the man. He inaugurated the auto- graph business with the visitors, and not only passed his around on slips of paper, but got theirs in return before the others had a chance. Newton Turner also blos- Somed out as a full-blown beau, and it is questionable 6 82 CHE wAH ! WAH ! whether any of the party did more to favorably impress the foreign guests with the gallantry of Americanos than that dapper gentleman from the City of Brotherly Love. A delightful afternoon was passed, during which the sweet singers of the States entertained the visitors with choice selections—“Home Sweet Home,” “Sweet Bye- and-Bye,” etc. etc., and were in turn favored with some Mexican songs, national and otherwise, by three of the Senoritas, whose sweet voices lingered in the ears of many of the party long after they had said “Adios/ " But Encinillas comes in sight, preparations for departure are made by the Mexican guests—sad partings, in some cases tearful ones, ensue—the gentle “Adios” is uttered, “Good Bye, Ladies!" sung, and amid the waving of hand- kerchiefs and farewell shouts, the train which bears the Mexican friends southward rolls off rapidly, and a few moments later the Americans are on their way north- ward. The remainder of the afternoon and evening was spent in the exchange of recitals of experiences in Chihuahua, impressions of the city, customs and peculiarities; and probably the one thing most dwelt on was the culture and refinement of the gentlemen and ladies with whom the events of the afternoon had given them an opportu- nity of becoming acquainted. During the evening the gentlemen of the party assembled in the official car and, through Senator Tappen, officially expressed their thanks to the Mexican Central Railroad Company for their courtesy and liberality, and to Frank Parker for his hospitality, kindness and attention to the pilgrims, sev- erally and collectively, while strangers in a strange land, “ADIOS ''' 83 and under his care. “Farewell, Parker," was sung in touching tones, and his old friends expressed and felt real sorrow at parting with the good fellow who had endeared himself to all in former days, and now had more than doubly strengthened the ties. Arriving at Paso del Norte late at night, Parker left the train ; “Good bye; God bless you, old boy,” was the valedic- tory; then onward again, across the Rio Grande, through Texas and into New Mexico, and another day was ended. 84 CHE wAH ! WAH ! CHAPTER X. ISLETA AND “THE MONTEZUMA." ~ * . RIDAY, October 27th. Again the N. K---- "- - - _-T- - - - -*—" n º I morning was ushered in with a clear - 7- -- $3 , Sky, and again the party as they -tumbled out of their berths, one by one, ozzedered whether it ever rained in this part of the country. During the night Mexico and Texas had been left far behind, and good pro- gress made through New Mexico. Las-Cruces, Rincon, San Marcial and Socorro had been passed during the night, and soon after a hearty breakfast, the train stopped at Isleta, a purely Indian village, or Azteó/o, and One of the most interesting places of the kind in New Mexico. As an hour was to be spent here, the entire party left the train, crossed the hollow between the train and the /zzeó/o, and ascended the slope to the quaint old place, situated on rising ground to the eastward, there being no apparent regularity of arrangement in the houses in the shape of Streets, each structure being located according to the fancy of its founder. It was rather difficult to determine just where to enter the labyrinth with the best chance of arriving at the goal—in this case a queer, extremely old adobe church, nearly two centuries old, which was kisible from the outskirts of the town. One A MONG THE PUE BLOS. 85 of the most prominent openings was chosen, however, between a series of low one-story adobe dwellings, the labyrinth was threaded and the church reached. A large number of the inhabitants watched the visitors with curious eyes as they passed through the town, some gazing from the flat roofs of the houses with undisguised wonder at the invasion of their premises by such a host of jolly, fat, good-natured looking marauders; others coming to their doors; and the younger aborigines following in small crowds and exhibiting considerable gymnastic ability in scrambling for tacos tossed to them by the opulent freight men. Reaching the church, a bright-eyed, comfortable look- ing little gentleman in black was introduced as Padre Peyron. His Reverence at once escorted the party into the church, which was dimly lighted by the small win- dows, but light enough to observe the ancient appearance of the interior. The altar had a few candles burning with a subdued brilliancy, and around the walls were hung some old pictures, which doubtless had histories con- nected with them and with bygone ages; but lack of time prevented the acquirement of much knowledge in regard to them. Passing out at a side door, the Padre led the way into an adjoining building, the School room, where the young Indian “ideas” were taught “how to shoot,” or rather, in this case, how to refrain from shoot- ing. After taking a look around the interior of the little buildings connected with the church, some of the party climbed up a ladder to the roof of a low annex, made their way across the thatched roof, and obtained a good general view of the place. Cleveland was down in the 86 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! enclosure in front of the church, having a rough time trying to get a photograph of a crowd of youngsters perched on the wall, or grouped in front of it. They evidently weren't used to sitting for their photographs, as the moment the machine was uncovered and they saw the weapon pointed at them, they scurried behind the wall, and were only coaxed back by a handful of tacos; a negative was finally procured in which, it will be observed, some of the little aborigines who had been fortunate enough to capture Some of the coins, are bold enough to face the instrument; others are on the fly, but by far the greater number are behind the wall. Cleveland took two pictures of the old church, with the party in front or on the roof, which would have been a great addition to the illustrations; but alas, on coming to develop them it was found that in the haste necessary on the occasion, he had taken them both on one plate A little sketch fortunately made at the time by the historian, is therefore presented as a substitute for the IN THE GLORIETAS. 87 photograph which “might have been.” Leaving the church, a visit was made to the residence of Governor Parea, who was absent, but the visitors were kindly received and welcomed by his charming wife and daughter, who showed them through the house, a model of neatness and good Order, and treated them to some excellent native wine. The store of Joe Toungree was visited, more native wine indulged in, and then the whistling of the locomotive called the party back to the train. A short stoppage was made at Albuquerque, one of the most thriving towns in New Mexico, containing about eight thousand inhabitants, and bearing evidences of considerable go-ahead-ativeness and energy. But Las Vegas having to be made as early as possible in the evening, no long stops were practicable, and the train rolled on northward at its best speed. Entering Apache Pass during the latter part of the afternoon, one of the finest pieces of mountain view was seen that it is often the lot of tourists to behold. The wide pass through the Glorieta Mountains is bounded by high and heavily wooded elevations, descending abruptly to lower hills, which slope off till they reach the depths of the pass. The lower lands are covered with a thick growth of golden grass; clumps of evergreens dot the “old gold” fields, and pine and spruce trees flourish luxu- riantly. A small stream winds along the bottom of the valley through a gulch with perpendicular sides of bright red earth or clay, and here and there are evidences of recent aboriginal occupancy, in the remains of Indian Zepees or rude dwellings of boughs covered with bark, 88 - CHE | WAH ! WAH ! erected near the banks of the stream, but probably hastily abandoned on the approach of the heralds of civilization in sufficient numbers to render abandonment a good Scheme. The ascent of the pass ends, and the descent begins. The beautiful Glorieta Park is traversed, with its myriad evergreens dotting the rounded hills, the sun sinks Over the western ranges, shadows fall on the quiet scene, twilight lingers during the faint struggle between the angels of light and the demons of darkness, and again Nature is shrouded in gloom. Speaking of gloom: just after emerging from Glorieta Park, the dark outline of a high rock, surmounting a hill shaped like a low pyramid, is visible against the starry sky. It is “Starvation Rock,” and bears a legend which causes you to look up at the summit with feelings of awe and sadness. Years and years ago, Tekaskalpo, a youth- ful Indian chief, wandered alone from the sunny mesas of Mexico towards the icy ranges of the North. He followed up the course of the Rio Grand del Norte, crossed the Glorietas, pierced the caſions of the Rocky Mountains, rested in the wigwams of a northern tribe, and was received with hospitality by the great chief Med- de-sin-bow. Med had a charming, bright, gazelle-eyed daughter named Poo-tee-pet, with whom Teck soon fell in love, and wanted to carry her off to his home in the Sunny South. Poo-tee-pet was willing to go, but the usual barrier, the old man, was in the way, and putting his moccasin firmly down on the plans of the young peo- ple, concluded to remove the young man from the Scene by Suddenly transferring him to the happy hunting ground by means of a tomahawk. Poo-tee-pet overheard the threat, AN INDIAN ROMANCE. 89 warned her lover, and besought him to fly and take her with him. He flew and took her ; Med discovered their flight the next morning, and with all his four thousand warriors in war paint was off on their trail southward without an hour's delay. Tekaskalpo and Poo-tee-pet made faster time than their pursuers, reached the plains in sight of the Glorietas, and there met a thousand of his Mexican friends who had come to look after him. Not thinking that Poo-tee-pet's pa would follow them that far, they were taking it easy, when Med with his warriors Swooped around a mountain a mile or two distant, and went for them. The Mexicans left in a hurry, and dash- ing for an eminence crowned with a rocky summit, climbed to its top, scaled the steep walls to the plateau, and were safe for the time being; but alas! they had nothing to eat, and nothing to drink. Med's forces surrounded the hill, and killed every messenger sent down to treat for terms of surrender. One by one the imprisoned band succumbed to the pangs of hunger; and last of all, Tekaskalpo and Poo-tee-pet died clasped in each others arms, just as Med-dee-sin-bow and his warriors scaled the precipice and appeared on the plateau at the top. This is the legend of Starvation Rock; and while you are thinking of the sad fate of the lovers and their friends, the train rolls into Las Vegas, The night being dark before the moon made its appearance, and the stay at Las Vegas being short, but little was seen of the town before the train moved off on the little branch six miles in length running up through the mountains to “The Montezuma," a run which took fifteen or twenty minutes, and the pilgrims were landed 90 CHE wAH ! WAH ! at the depot opposite the hotel, which was brilliantly lighted up. Across the Rio Gallinas (Guyé-nas) appears the brilliantly lighted “Montezuma,” a very handsome three-story hotel, built in the Queen Anne style, gable roofed, and surrounded on three sides by wide balconies. After days of continuous travel, pleasant though that travel was, the hotel looked extremely inviting, and it took the party but a short time to cross the high covered footbridge leading over the stream and enter the bright and spacious rotunda, where they were welcomed by Mr. Frost, the manager, and Mr. Fred Harvey, the genial gentleman who has charge of all the hotels, etc., on the line of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Rail- road, and who had accompanied the party to Mexico. A royal reception was given to the jovial looking railroad men; clusters of fair guests were at the doors of the parlors; domestics peeped at the excursionists from the stair-cases as they filed in with gripsacks in their hands and contentment on their countenances; names were registered, rooms assigned, and general prep- arations made for the banquet, which was to take place as Soon as possible after their arrival. While they are in their rooms getting ready for the feast, a few words regarding “The Montezuma" and the hot Springs will not be out of place. Through a beauti- ful plateau of thirty or forty acres, between the sloping foothills of the Spanish Range of the Rocky Mountains, winds the Rio Gallinas. Along the banks of the stream, at the upper end of the plateau, springs of water bubble forth and add their mite to the gently flowing river. Mountain springs are generally cold, but these are hot, AN A BORIGINAL SARATOGA. 9 I the temperature varying from one hundred' and twenty to one hundred and forty degrees—pretty fair in heat! The waters contain ingredients which render them very beneficial in a great many of the ills that flesh is heir to, and have the advantage of being equally beneficial whether taken internally, in place of the morning cock- tail, or externally as an ablution. It is claimed that the Indians have drank and bathed in the waters of these hot springs for centuries, and that they brought their sick hundred of miles and boarded for the season on the hillsides and banks of the stream, dosing them with and ducking them in the hot water (or fire-water, as they call it) until they were either cured or drowned. As usual, the white people, seeing a good thing, absorbed it, and im- provements have followed each other for years past, until within the past year the beautiful “Montezuma” has been completed and thrown open to the world, and, with its two hundred and fifty handsome rooms, elegant parlors, wide and spacious balconies, excellent table, and baths of every description under the sun, invites the infirm as well as the firm to corne, the former to get cured, the latter to have a good time. The climate is delight- ful, and experience has proved it to be perhaps the best place in America for those afflicted with pulmon- ary or rheumatic troubles. None of the pilgrims were either consumptive or rheumatic, but even the brief visit at the “Montezuma" did them lots of good, and it would be difficult to find a happier, jollier party than they were while at the springs. It may have been the climate, or the baths, but any way they were all happy. 92 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! To return to the pilgrims. Assembling in the rotunda of the hotel after “primping up,” the doors of the brilliant looking dining hall were thrown open, and the guests filed in, two by two, taking their seats at a T-shaped banquet table with covers laid for about Seventy, and a handsome bill of fare, with a list of the distinguished guests, at each plate. Adjectives fail to express the excel- lence of the dinner, or the enjoyment of the entire affair by the gentlemen comprising the party; and they doubt- less would willingly have remained three hours at the table, instead of half that time, had it not been for the necessity of clearing the room for another entertainment to be given in their honor, in the shape of a “hop.” The banquet gave place to the ball, and for three hours the gallant Freight men were wafted through the intrica- cies of quadrilles, lanciers and Virginia reels, or revolved around the room in the dizzy whirl of the waltz, with as fair partners as ever graced a ball-room. There were belles from Chicago, Cincinnati, New York, Boston, Pueblo, Las Vegas and other American cities, and after the first difficulty had worn off of addressing ladies in English after having been accustomed to speak to them in Mexican for such a long time, the travelers got along excellently, and entertained their partners with marvelous descriptions of all they had seen, and pretty nearly all that they had done, in Sunny Mexico. At about two o'clock the orchestra played “Home, Sweet Home,” and as the fair guests passed from the ball-room, the “Mon- tezuma Ideals” sang “Good Night, Ladies,” the tired tourists re-tired, the lights in the bedrooms disappeared One by One, and again the dreams were of home. BARRACKS OF ELEVENTH MEXICAN | NFANTRY, - CH|HUAHUA. STREET SCENE, - CH|HUAHUA. RUSSIAN THINGS. 93 CHAPTER XI. AT THE HOT SPRINGS. ATURDAY, October 28th. The Sun had not risen very high in the clear blue heavens when a knock at the door of each room advised the slumbering ex-Mexicanos that it was time to get up; and each -- One having received a complimen- tary card of invitation from Henry Barlow to avail themselves of any kind of a bath, from a Turkish bath to a mud pack, the invitation was taken advantage of by a large number, and the bathing buildings on the banks of the Gallinas were for an hour or two occupied by “the boys.” A Russian bath is a big thing. After disrobing in the quarters assigned to you, a clear-skinned but rather Scantily attired attendant makes his appearance, covers you with a sheet, and leads you to a marble-floored room in which a row of cupboards runs along on One side, from which steam emerges at every chink. Projecting from the top of each of two of the cupboards you Observe a human head, and your blood curdles as the thought flashes through your mind that they may have set up a “Blue-Beard” business on you, to make a valu- able vacancy in a high official railroad position down - 94. CHE wAH ! WAH ! East; but, through the steam, you observe that one of the heads belongs to Billy Garty and the other to Arthur Street, and that they are both alive and kicking-kick- ing because Charley Case is in front of them, alternately “cuffing” their faces and tickling the soles of their feet with a stick, and, being locked in a cupboard, there is no chance of immediate revenge. You take your chances, enter an adjoining cupboard, and seating yourself on a small stool, the doors are closed and you are in the stocks. A thousand jets of hot water suddenly strike you like needles, from all directions inside the cupboard, and the boiling process begins. You gradually feel your- self melting away, and wonder how much of you will be left to take home to your family; but before you are entirely evaporated, the attendant makes his appearance, asks you how you feel, just to see whether you can speak yet, opens the prison door and leads you to the next room. There you are put through a course of Spouts. Hot and cold water are fired at you alternately; you are laid on a marble slab, drenched with soap-Suds, scrubbed with a brush till you think the able-bodied attendant has mistaken you for a pine floor, shampooed till your skin is as Smooth as the marble slab you are lying on, spanked with a paddle or Some other weapon till you are sore; your joints are all pulled, twisted and bent, dislocated and re-set, and, after being drowned once or twice more, you are rubbed down with dry towels, taken into a warm room and put to bed, where you may stay till you have recovered and feel well enough to get up and dress. Going again into the open air, you feel like a bird, fly across the bridge, prance around the balcony, and then A SPECK OF WAR. 95 enjoy the best and biggest breakfast that you have ever had, Seasoned with a smile from the brightest pair of eyes in the room, the belle of the evening before having graciously been pleased to favor you with a smile. After breakfast, some of the party sat in the parlors entertaining the ladies and being entertained ; others watching the Indian women washing clothes at a hot spring devoted to that purpose, explored the ravines and valleys, or climbed the hills and viewed the surrounding country; while others amused themselves with billiards and ten-pins in the basement of the hotel; and the morning passed pleasantly away. Then came a repetition of the banquet of the evening before, a very agreeable addition being made to the party at the table by the acceptance of an invitation given to Some of the ladies, who honored the gentlemen by their presence. It was a jolly dinner, and though envious thoughts may for the time being have been harbored by a few of the best looking Bostonians and others towards their more fortunate rivals who were chosen as the escorts of the fair guests, and who did their best to be entertaining, no blood was shed, and a compact of mutual protection entered into between the Duke and the His- torian. It was the intention to have had some post-prandial toasts, and neat and appropriate responses, and all that kind of thing, you know, but time alone prevented. Fred Pomeroy was to have responded to the toast of “The Ladies,” and had a neat (ear/empore) speech written on behalf of the fair American beauties, while Newton Turner had committed to memory a speech in Spanish 96 CHE wAH ! wa H ! eulogistic of the dark-eyed Mexican Senoritas. “Our entertainers” were to be toasted by Ed. Foley, and Bar- low was primed for a first-class reply, in which he was going to speak of the present company as the jolliest Set of fellows in the world, and ask them to come again, bring their families along, and stay a month. “Our absent friends” were to be remembered, but the toast was to be unresponded to, none of them being present. The toast of the “Army and Navy” was to be proposed by Mr. Wheeler and responded to by Mr. Swords; and “The five-hour-old dobé" was to be toasted by Henry Vilas. General Brown was to respond in a neat speech, in which the closing remarks were to be as follows: “We hope that you will live always, that you will always find your Bar-low, that you may never be called a hard Case, that you may Ward off ill usage, that your White sides may never know the lash, the Fell strokes of club, or the punches of Speirs; that you may Eddy smoothly through life, following your Bell-wether, and when you Hall your last load on the bright Streets beyond, you will find Pride in Öurro-ing Serenely to the last.” These bright remarks were lost to posterity, owing to the fact that time flew. The dinner was over, and hastily packing their Satchels, bidding farewell to Mana- ger Frost, and taking leave of the ladies, the pilgrims filed again across the bridge; the “Ideals” sang their farewell songs, and amid the waving and wringing of hands and handkerchiefs on both sides of the river, the train rolled away, “Homeward Bound.” It took some little time to recover composure after the harrowing scenes in tearing themselves away from CH | H UAH UA OX CART NOCTURNAL MUSINGS AND MUSIC. 97 “The Montezuma,” but by the time that Las Vegas was reached the boys were themselves again, and shortly afterwards were again whirling along towards “the States.” Nobody acknowledged being tired, but oº, by one the berths were made up by the porters, per request, and one by one the pilgrims turned in and were soon fast asleep. It is wonderful what a variety of melodious sounds a tired party of sleeping fat men can produce. The his- torian could not sleep that night, as the responsibility of his position began to dawn on him, and he pondered over the fact that instead of being, as he expected to be, a kind of depository for literary contributions, he would have to evolve an entire history from his own 7.3% cranium. Each particular snow white hair stood on end like the frills on a porker's spine, gentle sleep forsook his berth, and all he could do was to listen to the music in the air. The big pilgrim in the berth below was putting in a fine trombone solo, which for power and depth of tone, certainly could lay just claim to the baked product of the cereal. The gentleman from Buffalo, in the berth oppo- site, had struck a key about two notes higher for the in-draw, and with each out-blow gave a kind of low whistle which had a very fine effect. A Chicago patri- arch, a little further along, went through the scales in the key of E flat, with a sort of a//egro andante movement; while an accompaniment more remarkable for variety than harmony, emanated from the various berths in the car, and filled in the background with a volume of tone rivaling a Thomas (cat) orchestra. The only listener listened till his senses were soothed to Serenity, the * 7 98 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! sounds became more and more distant, assuming imag- inary music far removed from the reality; and he too went to sleep, perchance to dream and probably to snore, like the rest ºf them. THE ARKANSAS AGAIN. 99 CHAPTER XII. BACK THROUGH KANSAS. àº; Scenery, grand caſions, royal gorges arºr yal gorges, lºa. Tº º - º - º: º º - - WN-Zºº *>> º -º-º: jº 22 - # * *ſº - ſº - P "…"-2^ -- u Ž | [. - - ºn tº A. Yº º º º - | Tº rº º º:}| ſº º º º: B ºstill -i. º 2// Hº ºr ºf - º: SF 2^/.--&ºi= RAF tº | s= R º º "sºº" - quet so recently spread before them, Apache passes, Glorietas and other similar luxuries in the scenic ban- the view of the //anos of Kansas that greeted them as they took their first peep through the car windows seemed somewhat flat, and comparatively uninteresting. All around, as far as the eye could reach, and considerably further, the rolling //anos lay, dotted with herds of cattle, but with human habitations few and far between. A magnificent grazing country, and doubtless the source of much of the tender steaks and roasting pieces that grace the tables of easterners; but one that doesn't set “the poet's eye in fine frenzy rolling.” One living link remained in sight, however, to connect the associations of the past with those of the present— the faithful little Arkansas river, which had been the pilgrim's friend and guided him along its winding banks a week ago, up through the mountain rift by daylight, and back again the next evening by moonlight, was placidly running along to the Southward, spreading itself to its greatest width, each ripple reflecting the rays of the I OO CHE | WAH ! WAH ! bright morning Sun, and dancing at the sight of its old friends, the pilgrims. Friends had come and friends had gone, but there was the river, keeping them company on their way as far as nature would allow. It was pleasant to be able to look at it in its present dimensions and claim old friendship, to have known it when it was a little fellow away up in the mountains, and almost to have seen the place of its birth. During the night Fred Harvey had left the train at Raton ; and further on, at La Junta, the genial Denver- ites, General Brown, Swords, Bowen, Babcock and Lazarus had switched off homewards, accompanied by Judge Whiteside, who was going up to Denver to spend a day or two. They were all much missed, as a better set of fellows never lived ; and the vacuum created in the party was very perceptible. - The morning was spent in a good quiet Sort of a way, the homeward bound travelers who formed little coteries and chatted over the events of the trip, rehearsing the various episodes connected with it as the negative of memory produced the vivid views one by one, and men- tally wandering back over the thousands of miles of pleasant wandering by rail. When a lot of good fellows get together and enjoy each others company for ten days on an occasion like the present, with perfect harmony throughout, it would be a pity not to take some steps to perpetuate the memory of the event, and so thought the pilgrims. Suggestions were made that some sort of an association be formed; a club, or something of that nature organized. The matter assumed definite form, and a meeting was called in one of the cars, Mr. Tappen was BIRTH OF THE MONTEZUMA CLUB. - IOI called to the chair, and made a very happy address to the members of the party, in which he spoke of the grand excursion now drawing to a close, the perfect arrange- ments made and carried out, resulting in such unalloyed pleasure to every one participating in the trip, and stated that it was proposed to organize a club, for objects which would be set forth later. The suggestion met with the unqualified approval of all present (as many of the pilgrims as the car would contain), and on motion, a committee on organization was appointed by the Chair, consisting of Messrs. W. H. Perry, H. S. Marcy, Edward Foley, J. Lowrie Bell, and George G. Street. The com- mittee withdrew to the official car, and after consultation returned and reported as follows: That the name of the organization be “THE MONTEZUMA CLUB.” That the officers for the ensuing year be : President, - - - E. P. RIPLEy. 1st Vice Pres., - - - C. S. TAPPEN. 2nd Vice Pres., - - S. D. CALDWELL. 3d Vice Pres., - - - EDWARD FOLEY. Secretary, - - " - GEO. G. STREET. Treasurer, - - - H. C. VILAS. A.recuſive Committee, W. F. BERRY, W. H. PERRY, J. A. PERKINS, J. LOW RIE BELL, A. W. STREET. That the membership shall consist of all gentlemen who have participated in the present trip, as well as of such of those who are in the habit of attending the Line Meetings, as may desire to become members. That the object of the organization shall be the cultivation of friendly and fraternal relations between the members of the club, and the perpetu- w I O2 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! ation of the memory of the trip by an annual banquet, to be given during the October Line Meetings, wherever they may be held. The nominations were received with unbounded en thusiasm, the entire ticket was unanimously elected, each of the officers-elect made a few neat and appropriate remarks, and as no club could exist without money, an initiation fee of one dollar was settled upon and promptly collected; after which the meeting adjourned. Thus was born “The Montezuma Club,” an organization with a mission of peace to perform, and destined to be a big thing in the lion and lamb business. One difficulty about having such a good time with Such a good set of fellows, for so many days in succession, is that sooner or later the good time must end. One by one the genial friends fall out of line and wend them to their homes; some to meet again in months to come, Some in years, and some, perhaps, whose kindly glance you ne'er may see again. These Kathleen-Mavourneen partings are sad things, and on this particular Sunday they came along pretty thick, and told considerably on the remainder of the party. Henry Barlow, in whose care the pilgrims had been while guests of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway, was to leave the party at Topeka, and it is safe to say that he had added to his list of new friends the entire membership of the party, whose respect and warm esteem he had won by his manliness, dignity and courtesy, and who were all very sorry to lose him. Just before reaching Florence, during the afternoon, the hewgag again Sounded throughout the train, and the THANKS TO THE A., T. & S. F. R. R. IO3 Montezumas swarmed to the “Somonauk,” where a meet- ing was held with Mr. Tappen in the chair. The gifted chairman paid a just tribute to the kindness and liberality of the management of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway, and the golden opinions won by Mr. H. C. Barlow, its representative on this trip ; and on motion, a committee was appointed with Mr. Midgley as chairman, to prepare a set of resolutions expressing the sentiments of the party in regard thereto. The committee retired, and shortly afterwards reported the following resolutions, which were adopted unanimously: - WHEREAS, the Management of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway did invite the Freight Agents here repre- sented to pass over the said Railway on their way to and from Mexico; And, whereas, this excursion has been conducted through- Out on a scale of generosity at Once princely and complete; therefore, - RESOLVED, that our sincere and grateful thanks be and are hereby tendered to Messrs. C. C. Wheeler, General Manager and J. F. Goddard, General Freight Agent, for the privilege they have afforded us in enabling us, with comfort and ease, to view such a magnificent stretch of country as that which our passage over the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway has spread before us. RESOLVED, that our thanks are further due, because this trip has given us a more comprehensive idea than we could otherwise have obtained, of the grand possibilities and rapidly growing interests of this new and important section of our common country. ALSO RESOLVED, that we are under still further obliga- tions, in that we were, while on the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway, committed to the care and constant I O4 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! attention of Mr. H. C. Barlow, Assistant General Freight Agent; and we do hereby express our appreciation and thanks to Mr. Barlow for his unceasing and entirely suc- cessful efforts to add to the enjoyment, profit and comfort of each individual member of this favored party. After the reading and adoption of the resolutions, which were received with great applause, the meeting adjourned ; but the lovers of music lingered in the car, and the Montezuma choir company favored the congre- gation with Some Sunday evening selections, by particular request, the entire Sabbath repertoire being performed with excellent effect. Then came some more secular Songs, the indulgence in a good time generally, and the spirits of the company arriving at that pitch where cheers for favored friends were in order, the ingenuity of Tap- pen was equal to the invention of a substitute for the “Tiger-r-r-r!” After one or two rounds of cheers he added the war cry, “Che! Wah Wah ' " which took im- mensely with the jolly party, and they played with the new invention with as much fun and glee as youngsters play with a new toy. As each new comer entered the car to see what the unusual cheering was for, he was astonished and generally abashed to hear a proposal of “Three cheers for with the shout), followed by “Hurrah! Hurrah! Hurrah! Che! Wah Wah (" and ending with a shout of gleeful merriment. The thing was repeated so often that they !” (his own name being coupled got it down to a fine point, and executed it with a precision of ſor/issimo stacca/o action that made it sound as one voice, and deafened the audience. “The boys" had an innocently jolly time of it during the PUEBLO INDIAN CHILDREN, - ISLETA, NEW MEXICO |SLETA, NEW MEXICO, THINNING OUT. IO5 balance of the evening, and no nonsense was too non- sensical for the occasion, even to the call for a speech from “Señor Spierio from Peorio,” or Fred. Pomeroy's gasping in the Smoky atmosphere, and calling “Conduc- tair | Conductair' where's that air conductair P” But the whistle sounds for Topeka, the jollification gives place to the farewells, and the choir chimes in with Good bye, Barlow ! Good bye, Barlow ! Good bye, Barlow-w-w! You're going to leave us now. Barlow is not the only one to leave the party at Topeka, and Speirs, Kendall, Perkins and Weed are also reluctantly parted with, each coming in for a separate verse and a rousing chorus; and just as the train leaves the handsome depot at Topeka, the verse runs - Good bye, Comrades Good bye, Comrades' Good bye, Com-m-ra-a-a-des! We're going to leave you now. Merrily we roll along, roll along, roll along Merrily we roll along, o'er the San-ta-Fee. After which, as the train rolls off eastward in the gloom of the dark night, the pilgrims enter the cars, say good bye to Crosby, Marcy and Bacon, who arº, to leave the party at St. Joseph, later in the night, give them all a round of cheers and vocalization, and then retire behind the curtains of their respective berths, to well earned rest. I O6 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! CHAPTER XIII. HOME FROM A FOREIGN LAND. ONDAY, October 30th. The pre- vious days of the trip had been with- out exception SO perfectly cloudless, that it was a novelty to wake up this morning, the last of the trip, and # = see dark leaden clouds covering the *T heavens. During the night the Mis- souri River had been crossed, Atchison left far behind, and the train was whizzing along at wonderful speed over the rolling prairie lands of Iowa, rich in farms and fertile acres. Mr. J. F. Barnard, General Superintendent of the K. C., St. J. & C. B. R. R., had joined the party early in the morning, met many old friends, and was a very agree- able addition to the number during the balance of the run to Chicago. - Soon after breakfast the train stopped at Creston, three hundred and ninety-seven miles from Chicago, where it was intended to remain a few minutes only ; but word being received of an accident to a freight train, twelve or fifteen miles ahead, the first and only delay during the trip occurred, owing to the necessity of remaining at Creston until the track was cleared and word should come to proceed. Various members of the party strolled through the place—a bustling, thriving A PROSPECTIVE CENTENARIA N. IO7 sample of a western town—purchased all the late Chicago papers, were stared at by the inhabitants, who apparently weren't accustomed to such an influx of foreigners, espe- cially those wearing somóreros, and then returned to the train to await its departure. At about eleven o'clock, after a delay of between two and three hours, word came over the wires that the track was clear, and off the train rolled, passing a pile of flour in bulk, and fine kindling wood that marked the scene of the wreck, and then speeding onward towards home. This portion of Iowa is one of the most beautiful in the State, the course of the road lying through rolling prairies, varied by stretches of woodland and watered by numerous streams that wend their way down the gentle slopes of the Des Moines valley. The broad river of that name was soon approached, crossed and skirted, and Ottumwa reached. Here Paul Morton met the party, was gladly welcomed by his numerous friends, and accompanied them back to Chicago. After a brief stop at Ottumwa the train sped away again eastward, ran into a heavy hail storm, and a little later in the afternoon the company assembled at the last tables to be laid in the “Brevoort” before the termination of the trip. A grand dinner it was too, fully equal in all respects to the first one enjoyed on the outward run, with all the delicacies and “necessities” observed on the “Greeting" bill of fare, and perhaps with a little bit more effervescence than marked the initiatory repast. Toasts were given and drank with heartiness and fervor, and if the health of Mr. Ripley continues in a measure any way commen- Surate with the expressed wishes of his friends on IO8 CHE | WAH ! WAH ! that occasion, he will certainly live to see the next Centennial. - Before the company rose from the table, Mr. G. W. Pierce, the steward, was called forward to the centre of the car and addressed in a few deservedly complimentry remarks by the historian, who presented him on behalf of the guests, with a “small testimonial” of their apprecia- tion of his services during the trip. Melvin Tarble was the next blushing victim of the historian's eloquence, and he left with a “slight token,” etc., etc. Ed. Raynor, the faithful custodian of the “luggage,” came up Smiling and departed more so, after whom, as each of their names were called, appeared one by one, the comfortable look- ing Senegambian cooks, Roberts, Lawson, Smith and Turner, attired in their contrasting suites of pure white, the spruce looking waiters, Brown, Green, Banks and Bates, followed by the military looking Pullman porters, Varona, French and Nusem; and lastly by the bashful “Sindy.” Each one was presented with a small “mark of y appreciation,” which seemed to please them so much respectively, that a few moments later a glance into the inner sanctum of the kitchen revealed four happy darkies in a good, old-fashioned “break-down,” in which eight or ten more would have joined but for lack of space. A pause was made at Burlington in a pouring rain storm, which continued during the remainder of the run to Chicago. The Mississippi was crossed in a twinkling, more or less, and then that train seemed to take wings and fly, such was the rapidity with which it whirled east- ward, over the magnificent smooth track. Again, and for the last time, the Montezumas were summoned to a 3. “THE MONTEZUMA." - HOT SPRINGS, LAS VEGAS, NEW MEXICO. BATH HOUSES AND OLD HOTEL, HOT SPRINGS, LAS VEGAS, NEW MEXICO. - PINAFORE WHA-A-T 2 IO9 council at about five o'clock, and assembling in the “Somonauk,” Mr. J. Lowrie Bell was appointed chairman of the meeting. Mr. Bell made a few well chosen re- marks, expressive of the obligations of the gentlemen present to the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad Company and its able and popular representative, Mr. E. P. Ripley, and on motion, a committee of three, consisting of Messrs. Midgley, Caldwell and Ward, was appointed to prepare a set of resolutions. While the members of the committee were in retirement in the adjoining State room, further remarks were made by different gentlemen present, the Oratorical effort of the distinguished gentle- man from the “Eastern” district, Mr. Berry, being partic- ularly well received, and applauded to the echo. Cheers were given for Messrs. Ripley, Barnard, Morton, Ten- broeck, Cross and others, and were responded to in neat terms, Mr. Ripley paying a compliment to the members of the party by likening himself to Captain Corcoran, of Her Majesty's Ship “Pinafore,” in that he could say with that nautical gentleman that he “commanded a right good crew.” The “gallant crew " would have danced a hornipe in acknowledgement of the compliment, but just then the tall form of Commodore Midgley emerged from the aft cabin, followed by the other members of the committee, and all hands being piped on deck, the Com- modore mounted the capstan, and read the following: WHEREAS, the railroad representatives here assembled have now about completed an excursion, extending over nearly four thousand, five hundred miles; AND WHEREAs, every stage of this journey has been fraught with interest, charm and instruction ; I IO CHE | WAH ! wa H ! $ AND WHEREAs, all our wants and conveniences have been anticipated, met and constantly supplied with a profusion, perfection and delicacy never before surpassed, if at any time equaled, upon a like Occasion. Therefore, RESOLVED, tºat our best and heartfelt thanks be and are hereby tendered to Mr. E. P. Ripley, General Freight Agent of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad, whose thoughtful and inventive genius suggested, planned, put into operation and carried out this most successful and memorable of all railway excursions. RESOLVED, that as we have thus been permitted to look with admiring wonder upon mountain ranges, deep ravines, smiling valleys and boundless plains, also upon cities, places and customs ante-dating ours; and for a brief time to mingle with people of a civilization strange to us, we shall, in the months and years to come, as we recall these incidents, gratefully associate with them the man to whom, first and foremost, we are indebted for the experience through which we have just passed. RESOLVED, that we tender our sincere thanks to the man- agement of the Chicago, Burkington & Quincy Railroad, for the munificence, luxury and comfort which that superb and unsurpassed Company has displayed toward us from the beginning to the end of this excursion. - RESOLVED, also, that we have cause for mutual congratu- lation, in that a trip so extended and protracted, comprising so many persons, has been conducted without the occurrence of a single incident to mar the good feeling, courtesy and, propriety which should, and has characterized it throughout; and, as we separate to our respective homes, with enlarged ideas and better conceptions of the vast and rapidly growing but as yet undeveloped West, we unitedly wish to you, our friend and benefactor, E. P. Ripley, long life, health, and prosperity and happiness. BACK AT THE GRAND PACIFIC. I I I It is scarcely necessary to add that the resolutions, expressing as they did the Sentiments of all present, were: adopted by acclamation, and at a signal from the Bell, the meeting adjourned. - The rain continued to pour down in torrents all the evening as the train whirled along toward Chicago, and it was with reluctance that the party were compelled to forego the pleasure of an anticipated surprise party or raid on the Riverside residence of Mr. Ripley, a dozen miles from the city; so when the station at Riverside was reached, all the guests got out on the platform, and after bidding adieu to that gentleman, three rousing cheers were given for him, “Good bye, Ripley" was chanted out in grand chorus, and off the train rolled, “o'er the C. Q. B.” The remainder of the time, which was brief, was devoted to gathering together satchels, valises, hats, coats, canes, umbrellas, shawl-strap packages and most curious of all, those green Mexican baskets, with one or two of which each pilgrim had provided himself at the Chihuahua market, and in which were stored the curiosities brought from that curious place. The lights of the city appear, the train glides rapidly along the broad belt of glistening tracks on Sixteenth Street, rounds the curve below Canal street, skirts the useful but unromantic river, and comes to a standstill in the shelter of the Canal street depot. Omnibuses are in waiting, the pilgrims are driven to the “Grand Pacific,” welcomed by Turner, Parker and “John,” who looks out for the baskets and luggage, assigned to comfortable rooms, and with the first closing of the eyelids in peace- ful slumber, the royal excursion ends. I I 2 - CHE | WAH ! WAH ! - CONCLUSION. Having taken the pilgrims safely through a trip of such magnitude, and brought them safely back to Chicago, it may be considered that the historian has done his duty; but it would be ungrateful on his part not to mention the liberality and hospitality of Mr. J. A. Grier, who placed a Wagner car at the disposal of the gentle- men going east from Chicago over the Michigan Central and Canada Southern Railroads on Tuesday afternoon, accompanied them as far as Michigan City, entertained them at a handsome dinner in the dining car attached to the train, and in many other ways showed his good will and friendliness toward the returning tourists. It was a most pleasant ending to a most delightful trip, and those of the pilgrims who enjoyed the fun that night, superinduced by Fred. Cross' donation of “Che! Wah Wah for the boys,” will never forget the scenes of jollifi- cation and merriment that occurred before the merry spirits of the leaders of the frolic were lulled to quietude. After the numerous and well expressed resolutions adopted during the trip, it would be “painting a lily" to add any individual remarks to those able documents; but the historian cannot conclude his pleasant labors without expressing the thanks of the entire party, with- out exception, to the gentlemen who were instrumental in affording them so many pleasant days of unalloyed happiness, and thorough enjoyment, as well as to the AT - THE MONTEZU MA.” PROSPECTIVE RETROSPECTION. II 3 companies they represented. They may rest assured that their kindness, liberality and hospitality were thor- oughly appreciated, and that to all participants in the charming trip, the experiences in their lives to which they will look back with fondest memories, and relate to their children and grand-children, con mucho gusto Will be those of the days “IV/ºem / was ºn Mexico.” ==º §Häº *|† - |||ſ: Nº) ſ ſº ſ |*|†, \t \ſº º |ff º 2% CHE WAH WAH I I 5 MILEAGE MINUTES ()F THE TRIP. Chicago to Denver, - - Denver tO Pueblo, - - - - - I 2O Pueblo to Leadville, - - I 5S Leadville to Salida, 6 Salida tO Marshall PaSS, - 26 Marshall Pass to Salida, - 26 Salida tO Pueblo, - - 97 Pueblo to La Junta, - 64 La Junta to Las Vegas, - - 2 I 5 Las Vegas to Albuquerque, - I 32 Albuquerque to Paso del Norte, - - 255 Paso del Norte to Chihuahua, - 225 2431 Chihuahua to Paso del Norte, - - 225 Paso del Norte to Las Vegas, 387 Las Vegas to The Montezuma, and Return, - I 2 Las Vegas to La Junta, - - - - 2 I 5 La Junta to Atchison, - - 554 Atchison to Chicago, - - - 52O Grand Total, 4544 - 3% H45. A Ph *ct, Cºe 6, CHarper, º 2, . 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