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Er~ilan
AN HISTORICAL SKETCH
BY
JOSEPH LITTELL




,ý)n 7     4 ý- L  1
Copyright, February, 1920
JOSEPH LITTELL

Indianapolis Printing Company




CONTENTS

DEDICATION.......
PERSPECTIVE......
EVOLUTION...... 13
13

A DEAD LANGUAGE
TRADITIONS...  7. 23

ENVIRONMENT.....
ANTOINE MANSEAU....
FIRESIDE TALES...
DECLINE OF LELAND....
LELAND REDISCOVERED... 33. 37... 43. 49....   5I







I have nibbed a quill from a sea-gull's wing
To catch the stories which the wild waves sing
'Mong the waving pines on the Leland shore
Of an inland sea






DEDICATION

WITH most delightful recollections of
those early days as a resorter,when there were but few of us and
those few became such friends, so informal
as to times and places of meeting, so careless as to dress and so unreserved in manner-for there were no strangers; when
there were no trails and almost no roads in
the woods and we were sometimes lost-and
that was such a delightful experience to
tell about; when we announced our approach to camp or cottage with a "Whoop"
or a "Hoo-hoo"!; when the children, who
outnumbered the adults two to one, ended
the day's glad liberty in woods and water
by piling drift-wood and brush on the shore
of the big lake for a beach fire, and when
the sun had gone down behind Great Manitou and the shadows of evening had gathered in the forest and upon the water the
flaming flags and towering torch,of sparks
signaled everybody to meet there with popcorn and marshmallows to pop and roast as
we gossiped, sang songs and lied and
laughed while we sat around the fire on
drift logs or lay upon the sand,-and the
wavelets lapped the shore quietly so as not
to disturb us,-till the air from the lake
grew chilly and we climbed the bank and




Ten
finished the evening beside the fireplace of
somebody's camp or cottage,-and the Maros just dropped in, they had seen the signal
-and the logs and pine brush in the fireplace crackled and sparkled throwing fitful
lights and shadows upon faces set in the
wide circle of shadowy background, while
we sang more songs and told more stories
and the smoke went up the chimney just the
same, until-nobody knew what time and
we didn't much care-but, until the 'old
folks' decided that it was bedtime for the
'young folks'-and we never knew where
the next beach fire would be, but we'd be
there,-then all would scatter off to find
their camps and snuggle down to sleep and
rest in the perfume of the pines;-with
such pictures as these and the faces that fill
them-most of them look older now, but
some of them are only memories which do
not change-this sketch is written and affectionately dedicated to the good old fashioned happiness of those early days at Leland.
JOSEPH LITTELL.

Indianapolis, Feb. 14, 1920.




PERSPECTIVE

HE history of Leland lies in the mist
and shadows of legend and tradition
until well within the last three-quarters of a century. The peculiarly isolated
position of Lelaneau County, Michigan,
and especially that part of it lying west of
Lake Lelaneau accounts for this fact as it
was practically unknown until long after
trading posts and settlements had been established on the west shore of Traverse
Bay. Northport, Omena, Suttons Bay, and
Traverse City were well known centers of
trade to writers of the history of the Grand
Traverse Region, Northern Michigan and
the lower peninsula prior to 1880. But the
Leland district was practically unknown to
them because, being out of the way of commercial development it did not enter into
any account to be rendered of human affairs. Not until the incoming settlers had
discovered and were utilizing the great lumber forests on the shores of Traverse Bay,
where water transportation and harbors
were protected from the storms which
made the shore of Lake Michigan unsuitable for their business, did they seek out
other fields of labor-or forests ratherand extend their enterprise into every corner of that part of Michigan.




Twelve
That part of what is now Lelaneau
County lying between Lake Michigan and
the present Lake Lelaneau was most inaccessible, and practically unknown to white
men as late as 1850. It's secluded position
made it a natural Indian reservation. There
were three small lakes, connected by shallow streams flowing northeastward and
from the most northern lake a stream, not
so large in volume as Boardman River at
Traverse City, was the outlet of this lakeand therefore of all three to Lake Michigan.
The land down to the water's edge of these
lakes and streams was one dense forest of
almost every variety of the pine; White
Pine, Hemlock, Norway or Yellow Pine,
Fir, Cedar and Arbor Vita, with Mapleoften in large numbers in certain locations,
Birch and Poplar scattered through the forest. Game of many kinds was plentiful,
except the larger game, deer, elk and moose,
which were found further south because
they had to come south in their winter
migration east of Traverse Bay. But there
were fur bearing animals, wolf, fox, mink,
otter, skunk and black bear, while ducks,
geese, turkey and wild pigeons were in
abundance in season.
And now we come upon the crowning
fact of all this-the abundance and availability and constant supply of fish. This is




Thirtee-n
the chief fact-the picture in the framewhich, surrounded as it was by the natural
seclusion of the location, the unbroken forests with their ideal hunting grounds, and
the landlocked little lakes with the inexhaustible supply of fish right at hand accounts for the thrillingly interesting history of the aborigines at Leland, most of
which however, as has been said, lies in the
misty realm of tradition or has faded from
view in the unrecorded past.
The particular spot now occupied by the
village of Leland and its immediate vicinity
has been the home of the Indian from time
immemorial. Roam where they would on
their hunting expeditions they could return
to the seclusion of their almost inaccessible
camp grounds where their supply of daily
fish-if not daily bread-never failed. This
fact is so important as to demand that we
dwell upon it and examine it more in detail.
The river which formed the outlet to the
northern lake-and therefore to all threeis perhaps eight hundred yards long. it
was a stream ten to fifteen feet wide and six
to eight inches deep, and had a fall of about
fifteen feet from its source to its mouth at
Lake Michigan. Its waters were rapid in
flow but with no precipitous falls. It was
densely bordered with forest and overhung
by swamp Cedars and Arbor Vita, with




Four-teen
many a fallen tree-top or trunk breaking
the rapid current of its waters or forming
natural bridges across the stream and casting deeper shadows into the water where
lurked the speckled trout and bass-those
game fish of fresh waters. This little river,
with its open mouth in Lake Michigan and
leading up to the little lakes, was one of the
greatest, if not the greatest natural fish ladder on the shore of the Great Lakes. It was
the open door for all kinds of fish which
inhabit Lake Michigan with a short and
easy passage for all kinds of fish, such as
trout, bass and others which seek fresh
spring waters in quiet shoals for their
spawning ground where the gravel is not
washed hither and yon by the storms which
toss the sands of the Great Lakes.
So great was the travel of this highway
of the finny tribe that fish could be taken at
any season of the year by a spear from the
shore-even in winter, for the rapid running waters did not freeze over, and so
great was the inrush of fish from Lake
Michigan to the little lake in the Springtime, when the warmth of the sun called
them to the spawning grounds, that they
filled the waters of the little river from
shore to shore and as they struggled up that
fish ladder many were crowded out upon
the shore all along the stream where they




Fifteen
died,-and stank. And so when the first
white men came to Leland they found that
the river had a name. From the distant
past, the Indians had called that stream
"Chi-mak-a-ping," which means a bad odor,
a stink. We have no account that the white
men ever attempted to give it any other
name.
By a natural process, however, it did acquire another name. When the first dam
was built near the mouth oftthe river an effectual barrier was erected gainst the fish
seeking access to the little lake, so that they
no longer crowded each other out upon the
shore to die and stink.
And just then another thing took placethe fish known as "carp" crowded up the
river from Lake Michigan to the dam in
great numbers. Some of the early white
settlers relate that anyone could, and anyone who wished to do so did, go to the
water's edge below the dam and with a
spear or fork toss out upon the shore as
many carp as he wished. And so the little
river lost its ancient Indian name "Chimak-a-ping" and acquired the white man's
title of "Carp" River; and, because the little
lake had no other name, by association, it
became "Carp Lake,"-a name to which
neither of them are justly entitled, for the
oldest white settlers unanimously assert




Sixteen
that they have never known carp fish to be
taken in the river above the dam or in Lake
Lelaneau.
The name "Chi-mak-a-ping" is now a tradition, and "Carp Lake" and "Carp! River"
are fading into the past to be preserved
only in the early white man's geography.
Names are of great historic value when attached to geographical locations and natural things. In demonstration of this fact
another very important event must be considered here.
There appears to be no historic evidence,
or even a tradition, that the lake now
known as Lelaneau ever had a name back
in Indian times. We have not been able to
find a tradition that it was ever called by
the Indians "Chi-mak-a-ping."  The lake
did not stink,-only the river was entitled
to that name, and that only until the building of the first dam. But from an indefinite
time, probably about the time Manseau
came to Leland, the lake began to be called
"Lelaneau." There is a very remarkable
reason for this name, which gathers into
itself) much of the early history, and-we
may almost say-romance of this locality.




EVOLUTION

T  HE early vessels which navigated the
water of the great lakes were sailing
ships.  Indeed the sailing vessels
maintained theirl supremacy as against
steamers in the commerce of these inland
seas until well toward the close of the nineteenth century. They were peculiarly adapted to the lumber carrying trade. As they
plied between the southern ports of Lake
Michigan and the ports of Traverse Bay or
the strait of Mackinaw it was necessary for
them to sail not far from the land after they
passed between Sleeping Bear Point and
Little Manitou. They must beware of the
shore in that district of strong and frequent
and at times very sudden storms of northwest wind. They were safe enough where
they had, plenty of sea room to tack and
change their course until the wind abated;
but there was scant sea room between the
Manitous, Beaver and Fox Island to windward and the mainland to leward for such
a task in a storm. They had to look out for
that "Lee Land," and many a shipwreck upon that Lee Land shore attested the danger
they incurred. That "Lee Land" became a
mighty fact in the thoughts and plans of
sailors and ship and cargo owners. The Lee
land was well known to them before 1850.




Eighteen
They called it by its proper English, "Leeland" as they were English men, and Americans, French, Swedes, Danes, and other sailors adopted it. "Lee,-the quarter toward
which the wind blows"-hence Leeland.
Just a short distance within the shore of
that land so well known as Leeland there
lay a three linked chain of small lakes. They
were not connected with any bay or other
body of water except by that outlet, Chimak-a-ping, which was right in the midst of
that Leeland shore so well known and guarded against. Those lakes were thus peculiarly inclosed in the Leeland. The first white
men who had knowledge of that locality
from the Indians or by exploration were
Frenchmen and when they spoke of the
little lakes they spoke of them as the Leeland waters, adding to the "Leeland" their
word "Eau,"-Leelandeau. Thus they distinguished the Michigan Lac from the body
of waters which was held in the embrace of
the Leeland. That name Leelandeau by the
laws of orthography in the English language became Lelaneau just as it had
grown out of natural and human conditions, the process and result of evolution.
The birth and development of that word Lelaneau-not Leelanaw-is one of the most
unique and beautiful romances in the history of names. And it is most fittingly ap



Nineteen
plied to that rarely beautiful body of.water
whose volume is wholly supplied by springs
of pure water, small brooks and streams
whose fountain heads are hid among the
pines back in the hills a short distance from
the shore.
The facts which accumulate around this
gathering of the waters embraced by the
Lee land; the stories which they suggest
but which never will be told point to the
great value of Lelaneau to the prehistoric
peoples, whose wigwams and teepes nestled
within the pines along the shore, whose
bark canoes shot back and forth across its
waters, who lived and loved and died beside those little lakes which bred and fed
and supplied in such abundance nature's
pure food for nature's children.
And so we find Lelaneau and Chi-mak-aping the seat of a Tribal home, and that
their chief camp was on the shore of the little river where the Chief of the tribe called
together the braves in tribal counsel for
years unnumbered under the wide spreading branches of the Counsel Tree. And that
tree was to them the sacred alter of their
tribal union. That Counsel Tree still stands,
about one hundred feet south of the Leland
dam, a massive old oak now dying at the
top. Those who honored it, whose voices it
heard in counsel are gone; another race of




Twenty
men has come who do not know it-do not
honor it. Children play beneath the shade
of its Wide spreading branches and dig for
arrow heads-and find them there. What
stories it, could tell! But now forsaken by
its companions, and neglected by passersby-perhaps it is lonesome-it is time for it
to die.
When we consider the factors which make
up the situation and character of the vicinity of Leland, so perfectly adapted to the
simple life of the Indians, we cannot wonder that they, loved it all, clustered about
it, clung to it, and fought for it, filled tradition with the stories of their battles and
mark their battle grounds with their
graves.




A DEAD LANGUAGE

T cannot be doubted that for many generations the region of Leland was the
home of the Indians. Tradition with
one voice affirms it. The Indian relics and
flint arrowheads and stone battle axes
found there point back even beyond tradition to a race of whom we have no tradition
-nothing but the signs of their having been
there. Copper instruments of war and domestic use, which belong to a period earlier
than that at which they came in contact
with the white race, have been found in and
near the village of Leland. Could these be
collected, as should be done, they would constitute a museum worthy of careful study
by any one who is interested in the prehistoric dwellers there. These things are more
than curiosities. They are the dead language ofa branch of the human family who
lived according to the light of nature and
by its necessities and have left no other
records.
There was a race who preceded the Indians in Michigan and of whom they have
given no account. But of the existence of the
Mound-Builders there is abundant evidence
at Manistee and Traverse City where their
relics have been found. Much research has
been made which has established certain




Twenty-two
distinguishing characteristics and which
mark them all along their route from British Columbia and Canada south across
America, Mexico andi Central America.
They worshipped the sun and offered
human sacrifices, usually on high mounds.
Their highest mounds were constructed at
strategic points for signals by fire and
smoke, and far vision. The exploration of
the Traverse City mounds, which were not
large and one of which stood within the
present city limits, revealed evidence of the
mound builders and their human sacrifice.
It is probable that one of the most interesting monuments of that pre historic
race in the United States stands in the
village of Leland. With all the silent dignity of the Egyptian's Sphynx it challenges
the attention of very one approaching Leland from any direction, but gives no answer-not even the echo of a tradition-to
the questions it forces upon the mind of the
thoughtful observer. It is known as Round
Top, so called by Mr. Luther Conant who
bought it and built upon its summit his
handsome summer home.
There are several emphatic evidences in
favor of Round Top as the work of the
Mound Builders. Its location is of first importance. The same reason which made
Leland so desirable as a dwelling place for




Twenty-three
the Indians, the great lake for navigation,
the convenient location on the main land
for communication with the island; the
near-by quiet inland waters; the abundant
supply of fish and game for food and clothing, were as potent reasons for its locations
then as they were to the Indian in later
years in his choice of a dwelling place.
The Mound was always located at the
center of camp life. This has been determined by research in other parts of the
United States, in Mexico and Central
America. - The value and fitness of Round
Top as to size and location as a lookout in
the center of camp life it is beyond question. It is visible at long distance on Lake
Michigan, from all four of the islands, and
from far south on Lelaneau, an ideal lookout for smoke signals by day and fire signals by night. For the mound builders had
their enemies and needed to watch and give
their warnings of attack, and rally their
forces for self defense. They built forts as
well as mounds in Ohio and other places,
and finally disappeared before a stronger
race of men-doubtless the Indian.
The size of Round Top is not against the
theory that it is the work of the Mound
Builders, while its distinctly conical shape
is emphatically in its favor. It is doubtless
one of the largest in the United States but




Twenty-four
not so large as some found in Mexico and
Central America, which are known to be
the work of men's hands. The pyramid of
the Sun and Moon, about twenty-five
miles east of Mexico City, are much larger
than Round Top. The Builders of Round
Top may have taken advantage of a sand
dune as the base upon which to build, but no
sand dune has been found approaching it
in size or symetrical or conical shape. It
cannot be the product of the winds, which,
although they,have made wonderful piles
and banks of sand in Northern Michigan in
that region of high northwest winds, do not
preserve the forms of cones. Round Top
stands upon a level base, is almost a perfect
circle where it rests upon the base, except
that part next to the lake-less than onefourth of its circumference. Its sides rise
from the level base as abruptly as though
the sand had been poured upon the top and
had run down to the angle of rest. This
fact is emphatically in favor of its artificial
construction.
Some of the foregoing facts are applicable to another mound known as Sugar
Loaf about twelve miles south of Leland,
located in the midst of a number of- small
lakes, which means a supply of food; for
neither the Mound Builders nor the Indians
were deep water fishermen.




Twenty-five
These mounds may have been begun as
tombs for chiefs or altars for Sun worship,
and later enlarged to their greater dimensions as the importance of their location demanded. It is known that human sacrifice
was a part of that worship, probably the
sacrifice of captives. Evidence of this has
been found in small mounds no further
away than Traverse City and Manistee.
And there stands Round Top, with all these
marks of a prehistoric character; too great
for us to build, too mysterious for us to understand, looking -out in dignified silence
upon a race, who not being able to account
for it, finds comfort in denying that it was
ever built by men.
Some of these doubts, however, are silenced in the mind of the writer, who a
few years ago stood upon the top of the
mound built by the Indian women of the
Jalpitan tribe on the Isthmus of Tehuantipec, Mexico, in honor of the daughter of
their chief who had been captured by Cortez and who became his wife and chief adviser in his dealings with the Mexican) Indians. It is named after her-the Mound
of Malinchi. When built it was sixty feet
high-though it is now much less-and
about one hundred and twenty feet square
at the base. History records that the women of the tribes carried the earth with




Twenty-Six
which the mound was builded to the top of
the mound in the garments which formed
their skirts, working three years in its
construction.
These facts are strong evidences in favor
of the theory that Leland probably possesses the finest specimen of the work of
the Mound Builders to be found in Michigan, if not in the United States, in what Mr.
Luther Conant has named Round Top. It
has stood there and watched generations
come and go, and Captain Ver Snyder, the
pilot of Lelaneau, now uses it as a land
mark by day and beacon by night.




TRADITIONS

T   HERE were many traditions lingering in the memory of the old residents in and about Leland in 1900,
many of them vague and all of them indefinite as to time. But all of them were
in perfect harmony with the combination
of natural advantages to be found there
and the life and events which left their
marks there.
Considerations already set forth furnish
a most fitting background for the traditions which filled the memory of the oldest
white settlers but which are being lost as
one by one they pass away. When we learn
from the concurrent testimony of the earliest written records of Northern Michigan
that three distinct tribes and parts of three
others contended for possession of the
lower peninsula, and that the most highly
prized hunting grounds were in the grand
Traverse region, we are not surprised that
the fiercest battles waged for their possession occurred west of Traverse Bay, some
of them in the immediate vicinity of Leland.
Perhaps the bloodiest battle of all was
fought at Sleeping Bear Point or rather
at its base where the Ottowas almost completely annihilated the tribe of Prairie Indians. The results of this battle in the




Twenty-Eigth
form of skeletons and camp equipment
were to be seen until the middle of the last
century.
It is not intended to set forth in order
here even the known history of the movements of the various tribes who occupied
the land in the vicinity of Chi-mak-a-ping at
various times. Let him who would study
this subject in detail consult the history of
the "Grand Traverse Region," by Dr. M. L.
Leech, 1883, published by the Grand Traverse Herald, Traverse City, Michigan. It is
important, however, to know that the Chippiwas, Hurons and Ottawas in turn, and
probably in the order mentioned, occupied
the Leland Region, and that as a result of a
kind of peace league, the Indian inhabitants
who are found there by white settlers and
whose descendants received lands in severalty and remain about Omena and Northport to this day were a mixture of two or
more of these tribes. Speaking of the Ottawas Dr. Leech says: "Their principal and
most prominent settlements, were at Cross
Village, Middle Village, Seven Mile Point
and Little Traverse. * * * West of the Bay a
small band had their home on the point afterward known as the New Mission, and
another on the shore of Lake Michigan at
or near the present site of the village of Leland."




Twenty-nine
While the Ottawas seems to have been
the latest distinct tribe to occupy the western side of Traverse Bay they were but a
fragment of that tribe which migrated
from the main home of the tribe on the Ottawa River in the east after Pontiac's war.
They had first settled at Mackinac where
they had been joined by the Huron tribe
which had been defeated by the Iroquois
and expelled from its native country on the
south eastern part of Georgian Bay of Lake
Huron. They also were joined by some Algonquins who had been doing something
somewhere and were compelled to seek
other hunting grounds. These all lived together in apparent peace, but always with
a keen eye open for a better location. Their
hunters and warriors explored the shores
of the bay on the east side, then crossed
over to the west side landing at Northport;
then in their excursions southwest they discovered the most desirable spot of all they
had seen. It was the Chi-mak-a-ping and
the little lakes with their adjacent forest.
They found this part of the country in possession of the Chippawas who had settled
long before, and immediately trouble began. The intense hunger for the possession
of that location developed the old tribal
spirit in each of the factions, and the various groups set themselves to acquire pos



Thirty
session of this spot in the only way known
to uncivilized selfishness-just take itdrive off or kill the present possessors who
had undoubtedly acquired their title in the
same way. These movements and battles
took place around Leland between 1750 and
1820.
The traditions of the conflicts which took
place in those stirring years for possession
of the Leland district still linger in the
minds of the old generation of white settlers, but are fast fading and becoming indistinct in the minds of their children. So
dinm and indefinite have they become that
it seems impossible to obtain anything like
names or dates. The location of some of
the battles is still pointed out with the remark "A battle was fought here; many
graves have been found here; we do not
know who fought, nor when, nor why."
Tradition locates one of these battles on
the shore of Joe Neddo's Bay near the present country club golf ground where scattered graves have been found. It was the
custom of the Indians to bury their dead
braves where they fell. Another and more
deadly battle was fought on the hillside just
north east of the village, and graves have
been found scattered over that hillside and
even on top of the hill. But they are more
numerous near the foot of the hill by the




Thirty-one
shore of Lake Michigan. However, this
spot was used as an Indian burial ground
until about 1880, which may account for the
more numerous graves. About this time
this land became private property prior to
which it had been included in lumber grants
but having passed into private.ownership it
was divided into small tracts for summer
cottages. While digging foundations and.
wells and other preparations for residences
there many very interesting relics have
been found. A portion of what appears to
have been a crown of copper was found in
one place, probably belonging to a buried
chief. At another place near the grave of a
supposed chief, a disc said to be of silver,
much the shape of a saucer, was found. It
was found upon the top of a skull. In another grave was found about a quart of
beads, and in other places cooking utensils,
axes, and other instruments were found,
arrow-heads, pipes and parts of what must
have been the warrior's armament.
Tradition is very clear in the minds of the
few remaining old settlers as to some
things. Since the year 1900, they have related what they heard in the early days of
Leland, and also what some of them had
seen. The shores of Lake Lelaneau, especially that part of the lake north of the narrows at Provmont, were dotted with te



Thirty-two
pees and wigwams, singly and in more or
less large groups. The tract of land lying
between the village of Leland and the present location of the Swiss Inn on Lelaneau,
and southwest to the mountain which rises
so abruptly, now known as the "Indiana
Woods" was a "favorite Indian camping
ground, and the shore of Lake Michigan
from Leland to the mountain was lined with
their wigwams and the beach covered with
their canoes. There were many camps in
cleared spots back in the woods, in fact the
woods seemed full of them." This is related
by Mrs. Bluhardt now living in Leland, who
adds, that, when she was a little girl, she
saw many Indian maidens gliding over the
waters in their canoes along the Michigan
shore south of the docks, and thinking she
could do it too, she took a canoe, without
the knowledge or consent of her parents,
and paddled down quite a distance and back
again; but just before she got to the dock,
the canoe turned over and she would have
been drowned but for the timely aid -of some
lumber men who were at the dock. She also
relates that among the laborers employed
in the handling of lumber, there were many
Indians at that time; and at night, after the
day's work was done, there was much drinking and brawling among the laborers
around the company's store and the trad



Thirty.-three
ing post which stood south of Round Top,
and very frequently someone was killed. It
was not considered safe by the parents for
children to go about these places at night.
Another tradition, somewhat dim in detail but distinct in outline, and of course
without date, and which gives the cause of
one of the battles fought at Leland is of unusual interest. It was related by Napoleon
Paulus, one of the early settlers there, now
deceased, and may be related as follows:
A certain tribe, probably the Chippewas,
occupied the forests about Leland living in
peace and plenty. The old chief held his
councils at the Council Tree. He had two
children, a son and a daughter. The son was
not a rugged warrior nor a great hunter,
and therefore not very popular among the
warriors. The daughter was a beautiful
maiden, sought after by many of the young
braves. One of them was accepted by her.
He was a stalwart, manly, athletic young
brave, a courageous and successful hunter,
and a leader among the young men of the
tribe. The wedding was celebrated in a
manner befitting a daughter of the chief
according to the Indian customs. Not a
great while after this event, the old chief
passed to the happy hunting grounds of the
Great Spirit. It became necessary then to
ch-oose a new chief.




Thirty-four
Part of the tribe desired to have as their
chief the son of the old chief, but the other
part chose to confer that honor upon the
husband of the daughter of the old chief
who was more fitted as a warrior to be a
chief and lead the tribe to battle when occasion demanded. Then, too, was he not the
husband of the princess of the tribe? and
was she not entitled to be the wife of the
Chief of the tribe? The dispute became bitter and the two factions drew apart. The
conservatives adhered to the son of the old
chief as their choice, and to the old oak
Council tree as their headquarters. The
new faction, with their chief and his bride,
withdrew across the river to the northeast,
and chose as their council tree a cherry tree
on the slope of the hill above Leland. This
tree, still standing, was the headquarters of
a flintmaker and is still a feature of that location. The strife became bitter and resulted in an appeal to weapons, and a fierce civil
war. A battle was fought, probably on that
hillside, which resulted in the death of many
warriors, and among them the chief of the
conservatives-the son of the old chief. This
may have been the battle previously mentioned which strewed that hillside with
graves, a few of which have been found in
very recent years while making roads.
Peace was then arranged between the two




Thirty-five
factions, and the chief with the princess -of
the tribe, his wife, assumed the honors of
the headship of the tribe undisputed, and
the old oak council tree once more became
the visible headquarters of the tribe.
Here is a story in outline which awaits
the pen of a Fenimore Cooper. Will he arrive to fill out the details of tribal, domestic,
and political life and quarrels? Or must it
pass into oblivion with the many now-forgotten stories of important events in the
history of Indian life at Leland? That wonderful combination of natural, attractive
features which held the heart of the Indian
so devoutly to that Lee Land and its waters,
had its romances, its feasts of rejoicing, and
its tragedies. But they were not recorded.
They were only told and told again by the
campfires. And they who told and they who
heard and told again are gone; but the wind
still sighs through the branches of the old
Council trees which watch over their graves
but will not tell.







ENVIRONMENT

EFORE considering the settlement of
Leland by white men, it is important
that we take a general view of conditions in the lower peninsula in which the
white settlements were closing in around
Lelaneau County.
In his centennial address, July 4, 1876,
Judge Hatch gave a comprehensive statement of historic facts of great interest as
to that territory, and which have been preserved in a compilation made by A. H.
Johnson and printed in Traverse City in
1880,-a valuable publication and all too
rare. Mr. Johnson says: "'Other items in this
sketch, we have gleaned from various
sources, mostly from the participants themselves." Then, quoting Judge Hatch-"The
Grand Traverse region, embracing all the
territory north of Manistee and bordering
on Lake Michigan and Traverse Bay, had
been, for many centuries prior to its settlement by the whites, inhabited by Indians.
The deep and well worn trails leading in
various directions through the country, the
old clearings at Little Traverse, Wagoshense or Fox Point, Old Mission, Cat Head
Point and other places,-the old scars on
maple trees, deeply embedded in the wood
and nearly grown over where they had




Thirty-eight
been tapped for sugar generations ago,all these things observed by the earliest
white settlers corroberated the statements
of the oldest Indians that this country, both
on account of the abundance of fish in the
lakes and bay and of game in the forest had
been from a very remote period a favorite
resort of aborigines. According to the most
reliable traditions, the Indians which still
remain here acquired possession of the
country about two hundred and fifty years
ago."  He tells of the visit of Reverend
George N. Smith of Northport to the battleground at Sleeping Bear where the Ottawas almost annihilated the tribe of Prairie
Indians and where he found the abandoned
camp equipment of the latter, such as kettles set on stones, which were almost covered by the drifting sand.
This compilation of Mr. Johnson is probably the most important document bearing
upon the Leland district which has been
published, as it shows the closing in around
it of the first white settlements. Up to
1839 when Reverend George N. Smith, under the auspices of the Presbyterian Board
of Missions, located a mission at Northport,
there had been no white settlers in Lelaneau County, if indeed he could be called a
settler. On one of his explorations about
1842, he visited the Indian village of Che



Thirty-nine
mak-a-ping, but merely visited it. The bare
mention of that fact in one of his letters is
the first recorded account we have that a
white man had ever set his foot in the district of Leland. Pierre Marquette is said
to have sailed from Mackinac down the
coast southward on Lake Michigan, but
there is no record or tradition of his having stopper at Leland. This was the beginning of what developed into an important
Indian trading post at Glen Arbor.
Says Dr. M. L. Leach, "In 1847, John Lerue came from Chicago to the Manitou Islands in search of health. At that time
there were no white men in Lelaneau
County. Finding the climate favorable to
his health, Mr. Lerue commenced trading
with the Indians. The next year, 1848, he
moved over to the mainland, to what was
then called Sleeping Bear Bay, but now
Glen Arbor, thus becoming the first white
settler in Leanleau County."







ANTOINE MANSEAU

RIOR to 1850, there had been established white settlements along the
southeast shore of Lake Michigan as
far north as Manistee,-lumber camps. The
industry of ship building became an important feature of the business at Manistee on
account of the large supply of timber in
that vicinity suitable for masts, spars and
-other parts of sailing ships which followed
the coast trade-almost wholly lumber and
camp supplies. The ship carpenters and lumber workmen were mostly Frenchmen from
Quebec and east Canada ports. At Portage, near Manistee, there lived and labored
one of these Frenchmen who had sailed up
the coast of the Lee Land around to Traverse Bay and Mackinac, and who had seen
and probably heard something on his way
concerning the Chi-mak-a-ping and its suitableness for a new lumber camp and mill.
He determined to undertake an enterprise
of his own, and accordingly set to work and
constructed a small sailing boat suitable for
his own purpose. In the spring of 1853, he
launched his boat upon Lake Michigan, put
on board his household effects, among which
was a cooking stove and a chicken coop full
of chickens. Then placing on board his wife
and seven children, five of them being girls,




Forty-two
and two or three of them young ladies, he
set sail northward along the shore of the
Lee Land for the spot which he had for
some time in mind. It was after dark when
he arrived at the place where he wished to
land, and a stiff wind was blowing. But land
he must and did-just a few rods north of
the mouth of Chi-mak-a-ping, where he
carried his family ashore, and then his
household goods, and placed them among
the dense growths of cedars and arbor vita
on the bank, just a few rods south of where
Mr. Woodbridge's cottage now stands. He
built a tent of cedar boughs to shelter his
family and set free his chickens to find their
roost among the pines. That night the wind
rose to a gale and rain fell in torrents. The
next morning all the family were drenched
and the cookstove was full of water. What
became of the chickens, or how fared the
boat in that storm upon that shore, tradition does not report. The name of this man,
the first white man who ever arrived and
settled in Leland, was Antoine Manseau.
The Indians were very friendly to the
French in those early days, and they gave
a kindly welcome to Manseau and his family. They came at once to his assistance and
soon had constructed a comfortable house
of hemlock bark for Manseau and his family; and thus established, the family soon




Forty-three
became contented citizens. How interesting would be the story of that first year of
their life alone among the Indians at Leland
could it have been written! It was not until
a year later that Manseau was joined by
other white settlers and during that year
came J. I. Miller, John Porter, S. Buckman,
John Bryant and Fredrick Cook. These
men joined with Manseau in the building of
the first dam near the mouth of the Chimak-a-ping, which was destined to change
the name of that stream. This dam was at
or very near the site of the present dam.
To get the required fall and tail race, he cut
a ditch below the mill which washed the
present channel below the dam where the
water flows to the lake, thus changing the
course of the stream at that point and making its entrance into the lake about one
hundred yards south of its former exit,
which was a little distance north of the
dock afterwards erected there. At this
dam Manseau built and operated the first
sawmill in this region.
Antoine Manseau and his family lived on
most amicable terms with their dusky fellow  dwellers on  Chi-mak-a-ping.  His
daughters grew into healthy and beautiful
young ladies and his sons into stalwart
young men. The young ladies felt secure in
their frontier life and had no fear of the In



Forty-four
dians who treated them with that friendly
respect which reflected the spirit of honor,
and which, with some other traits of character possessed by them and displayed when
treated kindly and fairly, entitled them to
be called the "noble red men." The only
cause of fear' which the Manseau family
ever had was on account of the Mormons
who had set up a kingdom on Beaver Island,
under one -James J. Strang who claimed to
be the successor of Joseph Smith as head of
the Mormon Church, and who had been
crowned king of the Mormons on Beaver
Island on the 8th of July, 1850. The chief
doctrine of that so-called religious sect was
the divine duty of every true disciple
to annex as many wives as he could support.
The young ladies of the Manseau family
were carefully guarded against any attempts which might be made by members
of that sect who found no sympathy for
their doctrine or methods of putting it into
practice among the Indians. The young la~dies were safe under the protection of the
Indians from raids, and were carefully
guarded against abduction which had on
occasion been practiced by the Mormons.
These young ladies later became the wives
of young men who came to Leland and their
names became Catherine Miller, Julie Dean,
Emily Grant, Odelia Mosier and Philomena




Forty-five
Paulus-wife of Napoleon Paulus, both of
whom spent their lives at Leland. Antoine,
Jr., the eldest son died at Sutton's Bay, and
the youngest son, Joseph Manseau still lives
at Manistee. The daughter of Philomena
and Napoleon Paulus, who were known to
the early resorters, became the wife of William Stander, at Leland, to whom the writer
is indebted for most of the information concerning her grandfather. Antoine Manseau
did not live to see the full development of
the enterprise which he had begun but died
in 1856. He was the first white man to be
buried where the cemetery now is, up over
the hill from Leland where his grave may
be seen. It should be marked, and inscribed
"THE PIONEER."







FIRESIDE TALES

AMONG the very early settlers at Leland was Alexander Mason, Sr., born
in Scotland, a chief carpenter, who
constructed a grist mill which was operated
in connection with the sawmill which had
been erected at the dam; for those first
white men began at once to raise corn and
later other grain, for food. They built a
bridge across the river close to the site of
the present one. Alexander Mason, Sr.,
lived just south of the dam-the sand has
blown over its foundation and that of some
other houses there. One of his sons, Alexander Mason, Jr., now of Traverse City and
his youngest brother are the only survivors
of the Mason family. James Mason, deceased, spent his life and reared his family
at Leland. The present scribe, here, wishes
to acknowledge his indebtedness to James
Mason, whose friendship he enjoyed from
1901 until his death, for much information
concerning the early times, and for the remnants of some traditions which were too indefinite to be recorded here, as we sat by a
large blazing fireplace or on a log in the
woods and whose stories of those early days
awakened a keen interest in the history and
traditions of that locality; of the lumber
camps in and around Leland and the hunt



Forty-eight
ing expeditions, the abundance of fish so
easily taken; of the camps of Indians along
the shores and especially the little villages,of tepees back in the Indiana Woods in the
cleared spots of ground where they were
sheltered from the wind of Lake Michigan
and in fact all along the shores of Lelaneau;
and the experiences of that day when he
carried his oldest son-about four years of
age-on his back "all the way from Leland
to Traverse City to a doctor-the little fellow was tongue-tied," and that trip was
made by paths and log roads through the
woods; and with his ever present sense of
humor he added, "I didn't take a gun, I had
all the game I wanted to carry." He loved
the simple, informal life of the old times
and told their stories, of which he had a
great store, with much pleasure, always seeing the humorous side of things. But there
was always a note of regret at the coming
of the new state of things, which he clearly foresaw.
One day while we were shooting at a
mark, he said, "We didn't pay much attention to dressing up or painting houses in
those days, but I suppose we'll have to
spruce up some now-owing to those damn
resorters"-with that insuppressible smile
of his. He may have referred to the resorters living near the dam.




Forty-,nine
He aided in the construction of the first
launch ever built in Leland. It was built in
his shop on the bank of the river which now
constitutes part of Mr. Stander's boat repair shop. This was the second launch on
the lake and was christened at his suggestion the "Norman."   He seemed greatly
pleased and almost surprised when the boat
started up the river and exclaimed, "She
runs like a scared hound!"
The cheerful spirit and willing helpfulness of Jim Mason will abide in the memory
of those early resorters.
Between 1860-70 there was great development in the lumber industry around Leland.
A new dam was built-higher than the first
dam-which raised the water level, not only
of the river but also of the lakes at its
source. This enabled the lumbermen to
float rafts of logs to the mills along the
shores of Chi-mak-a-ping. But a result obtained by raising the dam which was of
even greater value was that the shallow
streams connecting the southern lake with
the middle lake and it with the northern
lake, at what was called the Narrows at
Provmont, were converted into waters deep
enough for boats and lumber rafts. The
three lakes became one body of water, and
the docks already erected near the mouth of
the river in Lake Michigan became available




Fifty
to mills south of Provmont. This greater
facility for transportation greatly increased
the lumber mills and the lumber business,
until the banks of the river were lined with
mills and lumber yards. The population of
the village increased accordingly, being variously estimated at from 1500 to 2500 people.
Alexander Mason, Jr., states that in 1865,
the Huron Indians still occupied the Indiana Woods; that much firewood for lake
steamers was rafted down the river and
marketed at Leland; that hunting and fishing were excellent; deer were plentful and
wild pigeons so numerous as to darken the
sky when they rose for fight; that he had
killed as many as sixteen at one shot, that
one could kill them with a fishing pole;
that wild ducks were abundant, and that he
had killed as many as seven at one shot on
Lelaneau.
The iron furnaces were built on the shore
of Lake Michigan, just north of the remains
of the dock which are still to be seen north
of the river, in 1872. Furnaces for making
charcoal of hard wood for use in smelting
iron ore were located on the right bank of
the river a few rods east of the end of the
present bridge in the village of Leland. Ore
was brought from Escanaba, Michigan, to




Fifty-one
Leland where it was smelted by charcoal
and the iron shipped to southern markets.
Great activity in the cutting and sawing
of lumber occupied the years from 1870-80.
It was about the year 1875 that the land
now commonly known as the Indiana
Woods was cut. This land was heavily timbered, except the little cleared spots scattered through the forest which had been occupied by Indian camps. One of the most
beautiful camp sites in this forest and which
was always occupied by a village, of tepees
was a level bench of land looking out upon
Lake Lelaneau protected by the forest and
the hills and said to have been a comfortable
spot even in winter. Upon this spot F. C.
Ball erected his first wigwam. It is now on
the land of E. B. Ball.
About this time occurred a tragedy of the
forest the marks of which are still very visible. A fierce cyclone from Lake Michigan
struck the shore at or near Duck Lake, a
half mile southwest of the present home of
John Robinson, and swept a path through
the forest eastward just south of Robinson's Bay laying flat every tree of that
great forest, making a path about one hundred yards wide. The holes and mounds
made by the upturned roots of those trees
still make the land almost impassible, even
on foot.




Fif t-two
The lumbering industry extended south
along the shores of both lakes: to Pr~ovMont, Cedar City and Bingham after the
building of the second dam which raised the
waters of Lelane~u; and to Good Harbor on
Lake Michigan, which, next to Leland, became the largest lumber (port in Lelaneau
county. This port, once so busy a lumber
market, with acres of piled lumber, with its
many inhabitants and dwellings, is now a
deserted village, whose empty dwellings,
large stores, saloon and hotel, with doors
ajar, empty shelves, broken windows and
the wrecks and foundations of other buildings tell a silent story of a busy life which
has passed and gone. No ships lie in the
quiet harbor with sails furled awaiting
their cargoes, or spread their white sails to
bear their loads of lumber to the southern
markets. The sea gulls find a quiet resting
place upon the piles of the old dock, and
sometimes into the brooding silence a few
fishermen come and spread their nets upon
the sands.




DECLINE OF LELAND

W     ITH the exhaustion of the timber in
reach of water transportation, the
lumber industry began to wane and
die on Lelaneau and the river until about
1900, when only the remnants of a few mills
lay idle and abandoned beside their empty
lumber yards, and the silence was broken
only by the whistle of the incoming Tiger
from Fouch, and the shrill whistle of John
Peter's portable sawmill which lingered
along the river to saw the last log at Leland. The old black piles still stood above
the lashing waves of Lake Michigan where
once the docks had been, each well worn
stump providing a perch for a sea gull.
Many houses had wholly disappeared from
the village with the vanishing population,
and those that remained looked old and
very paintless. There were but two stores,
the Cordes Brothers' and Pickards, with
very scanty stocks of merchandise,-they
made no deliveries. Julius Prousa had the
germ of a livery stable which later-like
the stores-grew and thrived, and may yet
bloom into a garage. There was not a saloon in Leland to furnish artificial stimulant to the almost deserted village, or where
the old inhabitants would meet to drink to
the health of the new-born summer resort.




Fifty-four
A few fishermen, the Cooks, the Prices, and
the Clauses, put out from the mouth of the
river below the dam and its abandoned sawmill to their fishing grounds in Lake Michigan in sailboats. There was not a power
boat among the fishing fleet. And when the
nets had yelded their haul and the boats had
returned to the fish houses in the river, the
campers could and did obtain a supply of
fresh white fish and lake trout-at five
cents a pound.
But a new day was dawning on Leland.
The ages-old lure of natural attraction in a
quiet retreat was about to draw new devotees to do them honor where the,old campfire had grown dim and almost gone out.




LELAND REDISCOVERED

ABOUT the year 1890, the lumber interests of Chicago, which had projected a railway into the lumber regions northeast from Manestee, extended
the road to Traverse City by way of Fouch,
-named after a Frenchman whose lumber
camp was located there. This was an outlet
for lumber from the Traverse region to the
shipping port of Manistee which shortened
the shipping haul to the south and avoided
the hazardous winds and shores of the Lee
Land. Reports of the Great hunting and
especially fine fishing grounds to be found
in that lumber region began to be told by
the lumber men in Chicago, and was heard
by gentlemen who were listening for just
such tales and seeking a good place to cast
a fly. The next June, a few of them came
by lumber boats to Manistee and thence by
rail to Fouch-the head of Lelaneau-where
they stayed at the lumber camps and fought
bass and trout by day and mosquitos at
night. Returning to Chicago they regaled
their friends with stories of the delights of
the sport of fishing in the newly discovered
country and the abundance of that game of
the waters,-not to mention mosquitos.
Then more men came, and their arrival in
ever-increasing numbers occasioned the




Fifty-six
building of a hotel at Fouch for their accommodation. They explored the lake northward in their search for better fishing
grounds and found the waters deeper and
the fishing better the further northward
they went. The most northern part-the
largest of the three original lakes-was very
deep and in addition to having better fishing
grounds was surrounded by more picturesque scenery with abrupt shores and without bordering marshlands. In 1896 Professor Bridgeman of the Lake Forest University, in search of rest-and fish-camped
near Porter's Landing on the northeast
side of the upper lake, and later built a bungalow about a mile further north on that
shore to which he returned each succeeding
summer. He was the morning star of the
new day about to dawn on Leland.
In the summer of 1900, Mr. Walter T. Best
of Chicago, came to Fouch in quest of recreation and fishing bringing with him his
young wife. Mr. Best became a national
celebrity as an entertainer under the management of the Lyceum Bureaus, and was
known to the public as "Maro." They returned the next summer, made their headquarters at Fouch, and were so delighted
with the new scenery and refreshing climate that they determined to establish a
summer home in that region. Mr. Best




Fifty-seven
hired a small steamboat, the Tiger, Captain
Harting, the only boat then on Lelaneau,
and explored the shores of the lake for a
home site. The shores -of the northern part
of the lake attracted their especial attention, and the point of land standing out into
the lake just east of the source of the river,
known to the Indians as Misha-ma-coping,
an old Indian camp ground-a beautiful
open forest of pines, was chosen and purchased, upon which later they built their
beautiful home well known as "Maro Nook,"
so named by Mrs. Best. They also placed
upon Lelaneau the first gas launch which
had ever glided over its limpid waters. That
same summer, 1901, Mr. Luther Conant
bought the cone-shaped hill just south of
the dam, on the top of which later he built
his summer home, and named the hill Round
Top. That same year also, the Chandler
and Dunshe families and Mrs. Cushman arrived and decided to build cottages on Lelaneau just north of Maro Nook.
In 1900 Mrs. August Detzer and Mrs. Mahuran, of Ft. Wayne, Indiana, after searching the map of Michigan to find a secluded
spot for a summer outing and writing to the
postmaster at Leland as to the possibility of
securing lodgings, came to Traverse City,
thence to Fouch by rail, thence by the Tiger
to Leland and "put up at Old Man Brown's,"




Fifty-eight
the only lodgings obtainable in Leland.
They started on their exploring expeditions
and soon discovered the unbroken, roadless,
pathless forests south of the village-The
Indiana Woods. Their report of their discovery of the wild camping ground, where
they had established their camp, and the
fine fishing nearby, to H. W. Ninde of Ft.
Wayne brought him at once to revel in his
chief delight, fishing and camping. He immediately set about the purchase of that
tract of land. The next winter, beside the
prosaic hot-air register of a town house he
told his brother-in-law, Joseph Littell of
Indianapolis, and the next summer, he arrived and pitched his tent. Then he told
Frank Blackledge and he put in an appearance. Then Mrs. Detzer told the McPhails,
and Miss Colerick of Ft. Wayne, and they
arrived. Then F. C. Ball of Muncie heard a
rumor and came to see and stayed to camp;
and he promptly told his brothers, Dr. Lucius Ball and E. B. Ball and they, with Arthur Brady and J. Otis Adams came to see
what it was all about, and they all staked out
claims. And the woods rang with the glad
voices of children and the shores glowed
with beach fires. Everyone was filled with
delight and enthusiasm. Everybody told
everybody else, and in this way Leland began its new day as a summer resort.




Fifty-nine
This brief and imperfect sketch of the
first settlement of Leland by resorters in
the Indiana Woods is but typical of other
settlements all around Leland. Each newcomer imparted his glad tidings of discovery of natural attractions, secluded from
the busy social life and throng of summer
resorts on the highways of travel, to his
friends, and became the nucleus of a circle
which grew up somewhere near Leland.
There was no booming of Leland by hotels
-there were none; nor by realestate agents
-they have not yet discovered Leland; nor
by railroad-they did not reach it; nor by
steamship companies-there was no dock.
The settlements upon the hillsides above Leland and the cottages nestling among the
trees all around the shores of Lelaneau
could tell a similar story with only a change
of names and dates, while the tall flagstaffs
on Conant's Round Top and Maro's Point
fling out a cheerful welcome by day to newcomers, and the lighthouse built by Horace
C. Starr near his home on the bar at the
source of the river is a beaconlight of welcome to many a launch at night in search of
port.
Leland as it is today "just growed" like
Topsy. It was not "brought up." The enthusiastic attachment of those who have experienced its delights in summer is the




Sixty
product of natural conditions. It is exhaled
like a miasma and is contageous. It cannot
be paralleled by artificial attractions. It
holds us-we love it. And in just that indefinable bond we are linked to the pastto our predecessors there who have left
the evidences of their devotion to it in the
dead language of their mounds and graves.
They too were men and loved it.
Then, too, Antoine Manseau's kindly welcome was repeated when we arrived at Leland. The few citizens of the small village
made us welcome and gave every possible
assistance to the newcomer. Who can forget the cheerful greetings and willing help
of Jim Mason or Dad Price, Old Man Brown
and Charlie Ribble, Junior and Senior,
Charlie and Leo Miller, Jim Reynolds and
John Robinson, Mr. Dalton and DeLong
who built our chimneys, and Mr. Swartz
and the Lederlys-all so well known to us;
or the county officials, Mr. Hinshaw, Carson Warner, Martin Brown, and the then
young attorney L. C. Dayton and the editor
of the Enterprise, W. C. Nelson,--all so
ready and willing to aid us with information and advice when we were strangers
there and all things were new.

*t                         ** *c                     *t          *            *




Sixty-one
And so the summers there pass all too
swiftly, until Aurora waves her most brilliant signals in the northern night to proclaim the coming of the cold north winds.
Then with reluctant backward looks, we
prepare for our migration southward-but
with the firm resolve to come again. And
when the sunsets on the Big Lake have
swung southward until that drama, with
its procenium arch of clouds tinted with golden glory and its curtains of indescribable
beauty, is enacted on the deep green waters
south of Great Manitou, and the colors of
the sea and sky have been caught by the
forest foliage in blended hues which challenge and allure our artists, Otto Stark and
J. Ottis Adams, and seem to mock their efforts to catch and transfer them to canvas
-then it is that we stroll once more
through the carpeted trails and feel most
keenly the solemn quiet of the evening of
the yearWhen the autumn winds are sighing
Through the treetops gold and brown,
And the summer flowers are dying
While the leaves come sifting down.






















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