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K~ ~ ~ ~~~~~- E     EKt   AY      HEDAY         PT\IXC )OI 




LIFE IN -THE SANDWICH ISLANDS:
OR,
THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC,
AS IT WAS AND IS.
BY REV. HENRY T. CHEEVER,
AUTHOR OF "dTHE ISLAND WORLD OF THE PACIFIC), 4 THE WHALE AND
HIS CAPTORS,X ETC.
WITH ENIGRAVINGS.
Histories make men wise; poetry, witty; the mathematics, subtle; natural
philosophy, grave; logic and rhetoric, able to contend; voyages and travels, to
entertain and illustrate.                      LOuiD BacoN.
NEW YORK:
PUBLISHED BY A. S. BARNES & CO.,
NO. 51 JOHN-STREET.
CINCINNATI:-H. W. DERBY & CO.
1856.




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen Hundred and Fifty-one,
BY A. S. BARNES & COMPANY,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern
District of New Yxoldr.
STEREOTYPED BY
RICHARD C. VALENTINE.
NEW YORE.




PREFACE.
WE call this book "The Heart of the Pacific," for two
reasons: first, because the Sandwich or Hawaiian Islands, which form its subject-matter, hold about the
same relation to other parts of the Pacific as the heart
does to the rest of the human body. Second, because
these Islands bid fair to become the religious Protestant Heart of the great Ocean, whose pulsations at different times we have herein marked and interpreted.
Although independent and whole of itself, it has a
connection which will be seen with "The Island-World
of the Pacific." The writer believes it may fulfil a
useful part, in directing the general interest now felt in
the young Island-Kingdom of Hawaii. The perpetuity
of the pure Hawaiian race there is daily becoming
mbre and more doubtful. But, as it has been remarked of New Zealand, the natives, though melting
away, are not lost. They are emerging into another
and a better class. In this process there lacketh not
sin on man's part; but Providence will overrule it for
good, and bring forth an order of things which shall




4                   PREFACE.
be far better for the world, for the Church of Christ,
and for the new race.
Perhaps it is in the providential plan of the world's
great Ruler, that the Sandwich Islands should yet be
adopted into the great American Confederacy. Won
as they have been from the lowest barbarism by American missionaries,-having had expended upon them
in the process, nearly a million and a half of dollars
from America, and the services of fifty families now possessing there valuable homesteads,-harboring a permanent American population, foremost in energy and
influence, now little short of one thousand, besides a
floating American population that touch and recruit
annually to the number of fifteen thousand, in whaleships and merchantmen,-and consuming yearly a million of dollars' worth of American merchandise;-on
all these grounds there would seem to be a propriety
in their enjoying an American Protectorate, if not an
admission under the flag of the American Republic.
"American enterprise," says a writer* who has been
for many years familiar with the history and progress
of the Hawaiian Islands, " both commercial and philanthropic, has invested the group with its present political importance-bestowing upon the inhabitants laws,
religion, civilization-and will soon add to these gifts
* J J. Jarve s.




PREFACE.                  5
language; for the English tongue is rapidly superseding
the Hawaiian. The Islanders have thus a moral claim
upon the American nation for protection. In no way
can this be more efficiently bestowed than by receiving
them into the family of this great Republic. The native population are as well prepared to be American
citizens, as the multitude of European emigrants. Unlike the generality of them, they can read and write,
and have already acquired democratic ideas under the
operation of their own liberal constitution of government, which will readily enable them to incorporate
themselves under our institutions. They are destined
to be supplanted in numbers and power by a foreign
race. They desire us to be their successors and protectors. The present revenues of the Islands are more
than adequate to the expenses of its governmenttime, opportunity, the interests of the inhabitants and
ourselves point to this result."
Events will soon determine whether they are to retain their independency, or to be merged in the nation that has civilized them. In either event they are
to constitute no mean a portion of the kingdom of
Christ; and if this book shall be found to have helped
at all to the production of that better order of things,
when HE WHOSE RIGHT IT IS SHALL REIGN, the labor bestowed on it at a time when the decay of health, and circumstances not to be controlled, precluded the exercise




6                   PREFACE.
of the Ministry, will be amply rewarded. It is one
man's mission in this world to do; it is another's to record and perpetuate the memory of worthy deeds. And,
in John Newton's judgment, it would make little difference to an angel who should visit our earth, upon
which of the two he were sent by the angels' Lord.
Next, at least in our view, to the honor of being
one's self a laborious and successful foreign missionary,
is that of being permitted to describe and preserve the
achievements of other missionaries, and to portray the
benign results to society at large, which have been realized by good men and true, on the noble field of Protestant Missionary benevolence in the Pacific. Having
steadily aimed to present to his readers none other than
the real, which is the hopeful aspect of the missionary
life and enterprise at the Sandwich Islands, the author
believes that this volume will gain a grateful echo
from the great Heart of Christian Philanthropy, as it
is a true report from that portion of our common humanity whence it purports to issue.
But in this and three previous volumes, though
pleased to minister both pleasure and profit to all our
readers, we have written mainly for Seamen; and
while aiming to entertain and instruct them, have desired also to cultivate and quicken their perceptions of
the true, the good, the sublime, and the beautiful in
man, nature, art, and religion. We have, therefore,




PREFACE.                    7
felt justified in making free use of the rich treasures of
English poetry,
To point a moral, and adorn a tale.
We have desired, in so doing, to enhance the value of
this book to the class of readers for whom it has been
made, without lessening its interest for anyLectorem delectando simul atque monendo.
With these remarks, while the work is honestly commended to the patronage of all classes, the author
would be happy if it might find such favor with the
liberal merchant and ship-owner, that they should secure it a place in THE CABIN BOY's LOCKER. The design of furnishing a suitable Literature for the sea, in a
convenient, accessible, and cheap form, is one which
we have for some time entertained, since observing the
lamentable destitution of it on the Ocean. By leave of
a gracious Providence, and with aid from others, we
mean to do something to supply this deficiency, and to
put it out of the power of shipmasters to plead, that
they do not know where to procure a suitable LIBRARY
FOR THE SEA.
To them and to their Seamen this volume is accordingly dedicated, as being an humble attempt to furnish
something better than the medley of Flash Literature
lsually found in the Cabin-Locker and the Sailor's
Chest.




8                   PREFACE.
The Appendix is meant to supply to business men
and travellers, as well as to Seamen, those reliable statistics respecting the government, resources, commerce,
growth, and prosperity of the Hawaiian Islands, which
all visitors, or any persons. who are seeking accurate
information respecting a country, desire to have at
hand. In lieu of something more perfect, it is hoped
that this may answer as a guide-book and vade-mecum
to tourists in the Pacific.
In connection with the tinted engravings, the author and publishers regret certain typographical errors,
which were not observed till the edition was in part
printed. The candid reader is therefore requested to
read on the vignette title-page, Kaahumanu, for Kaahamann, and Hawaiian, for Hawanan.
NMw YORK, August 20th, 1851.




CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
LOCAL TRADITIONS OF CAPTAIN COOK7 AND GLIMPSES OF OLD PAGANISM M
THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.
A notable wonder-Curious Fancies of the Natives respecting the first
Ship-They venture nigh in Canoes-They recognize their god LonoThey pay Divine Worship to Captain Cook-They grow familiar with the
Ha5les —They smart under Indignities and Exactions-The bent bow
snaps-They are undeceived-The Denouement-He groans-He is not
a god-The Fight-The Fall-The Retreat-The burning of the Navigator's Body-The Exploits of Phillips-The Narrative of Ledyard —The
Revenge-The Providence-We stand where Cook fell-We visit the
Spot where his Body was burned-Monumental Inscription-Natural
reflection upon his end-Forms of the Old Idolatry-Pagan Notions respecting the Soul-The Realms of Wakea and Milu-Providence and
Grace in the Heart of the Pacific........................... Page 19
CHAPTER II.
EEALAKEEUA BAY NOW AND THIRTY YEARS AGO.
The Trail from Kailua-Observed Wealth of Nature-Insight of the Spiritual through the Veil of the Natural-Analogy drawn and Lessons derived-We view the Ocean from on high-Coffee Plantation of a Man
from Maine-A Relic from the Times of Kamehameha the Great-The
Premises~of a Missionary heave in sight-Primitive IIospitality —City of
Refuge at Honaunau-The Iona of Hawaii-Ellis's Account of it quarter
of a Century ago-The hideous Corpse of Paganism-The Deeds of
Despots-Legendary Exploit of an Hawaiian Gracchnus-Sole Feature of
Humanity in the System of Paganism-Human Sacrifices-Numbers
once Immolated-Last at Kealakekua-Comparison of Christianity with
Paganism-Incredible Change-The Theme of Song-The transforming
Agent —Investment of a Massachusetts Wheelwright-How to make
1*




10                         CONTENTS.
eighteen hundred per cent. by a Donation to Missions-Death and Life
springing from the same Bay of Kealakekua-Sketches of ObookiahProvidential Voyage to America, and Adoption at Cornwall —Other
Links in the Chain of Providence —Adventures of Thomas IIopuHopes from the Cornwall School-Natural Disappointment-The Heart
of the Pacific in 1820 and 1850-Blessedness of the Change..... Page 34
CHAPTER III.
LAHAINA AND ITS ENVIRONS ON THE ISLAND OF MAUI.
Good-bye to Hawaii-Grateful Reminiscences-The Continental Character
of Missionaries-Portraiture of a good Priest —Run to Maui by Whaleship-Facilities for Recruiting at Lahaina-Seamen's Chaplain-Gratuitous Services of Missionaries-Sailors always careless when not cared
for-Winding up of a Liberty-day at Lahaina, in the season of ShipsAn honorable Pre-eminence-IIawaiians a Surf-playing-Sea-bathing a
national Passion-A young Forest of Cocoanuts-Improvements under
the old System of Tyranny an Invitation to Robbery and ExtortionRevolution in Progress-Its benign Effects-Love's Labor never Lost
-Solace to the Philanthropist in the event of the Nation's DeceaseLahaina at the poetic Distance and close at Handl-Native Stone Meeting-house-Power of the Gospel there-Liberality and Means of the
Church —Array of Arguments for the People supporting their own
Ministers-Peculiar Advantages at Lahaina-The Hawaiian Democracy
-Remarkable running out of the Race of Rulers-Precious Dust in
God's-Acre - Character and Influence of the HIigh Chief Hoapili -A
striking Anecdote-Vistas of Prophecy opened-Tendency of Things
-Cheering Progress............................................. 59
CHAPTER IV.
THE FOOTSTEPS OF BEAUTY TRACED BY A TRAVELLER IN NATURE, LANGUAGE,
AND RELIGION.
A Canoe takes us to WVailuku-Elements of the Beautiful at Home and
Abroad-Morning on the Mountain-Effect of natural Scenery upon
Childhood —Curious Hawaiian Etymologies —A Catalogue of queer Appellatives- The peculiar Genius and Idioms of the IIawaiian TongueWords to be domesticated into English-Conversational Uses of the
Native-Commendable Solicitude of Hawaiians for the Purity of their
Language-Classical Discussion at an Assembly of Teachers-Fear of
barbarous Innovations from Abroad-A Book of Fables suggestedTheir Uses illustrated-Isaac Taylor on the Employment of the Esopian
Vehicle of Instruction-Notices of the Wailuku Church and Pastor



CONTENTS.                           1
Resolutions for the independent Support of the Ministry-Praiseworthy
instance of Hawaiian Gratitude-Mr. Green's Experiment at Makawao
-Beneficial Results —Reasonings of Natives —Union of Faith and
WTorks-Affecting Tests of Christianity-Resolves of Pastors preparatory to Independency-Initiatory Steps-Remarkable Consummation in
the Jubilee Year of the Nineteenth Century.................. Page 82
CHAPTER V.
A GLANCE AT THE PROVINCE AND RESULT OF MISSIONS IN THE HEART OF THE
PACIFIC) AND A VISIT TO THE PALACE OF THE SUN.
A passing Tribute to the true modern Apostles-Character of Protestant
Civilization-Theory and Practice at Wailuku-History and Progress of
the Female Seminary-Province of Woman in the work of Civilization
-How fulfilled-Examination of Schools —Hawaiian Girls-Trip to the
Crater of Hale-a-ka-la-We reach the Brim-Novel Scene opened at the
Top-Spectacle of Grandeur and Glory presented by the Clouds-A
Play-ground for the Youth of Heaven-Feelings belonging to such a
Position-Man's Nothingness and the Creator's Glory-Rhapsody of
Rowland Hill-Luther's View of the majestic Vault of God-Lesson we
learned from the lofty Look-out of Hale-a-ka-la-A Sight from the Cliffs
of Eternity-Montgomery's Imprecation-We are let down safely —We
pass to the Sugar-making on East Maui-Farming Lands-Horseback
Route through Haiku-Sand-hills and ancient Golgotha-Reflections on
a Skull-Evidence of former Culture and dense Population —Present
Record of Deaths and Births-Mortality of the Year 1848 by MeaslesCulture of Rice by Chinamen-Fine Appearance of the Garden and
Terraces of Wailuku —Entertainment at the Seminary-Sports with the
Children..................................................... 102
CHAPTER VI.
SKETCHES OF THE BLIND PREACHER AND THE BIRTH-PLACE OF KAAHUMANU,
IN EAST MAUI.
The Law of Compensation illustrated-Memorials of the first Convert to
Christianity —Iis Birth and Boyhood-Early Deformity and Loss of
Sight-Skill in the Hula-Adoption by the Court as a Buffoon-Abandoned to perish-Dawning of the Day-spring-He hears of Christ-He
turns to the Pono-The Chiefs send for him to make Sport-Memorable
Answer-Journal respecting him —Affecting Attitude —Divine Sovereignty exemplified-Probation for the Church-Record of his Examination-First-fruits-He grows and endures-Light breaks-Light is
withdrawn-He is thrown upon Memory-He hides the Word of God




12                        CONTENTS.
-Acquires extraordinary Strength and Tenacity of Memory-Labors
effectively with the Missionaries-Is licensed to preach the GospelAccount of one of his Sermons-Power as a Preacher-Surprise of the
Missionaries-Resources of Illustration-Ministry in HIonuaula-Life
and Death-We pass and ponder his Field of Labor-Supposed Mental
Exercises in his Blindness-We proceed to Hana-Remarkable Road
over Clinkers-How made, and by whom-After-streams from the Volcano-The Warfare of a Night-Victory to the Ukulele-A Chief of the
olden Time-A Dance at Kaupo-Perils by Canoe-Sketches of the Missionary Station of Hana-Natural Features and Productions-Riding
up to the Clouds-Cave where Kaahumanu was born-Two strange
Things in the Kingdom of Nature and Kingdom of Grace-A volcanic
Bathing-house............................................ Page 127
CHAPTER VII.
ADVENTURE, ESCAPE, AND AIRIVAL AT MOLOKAI.
We embark in the double Canoe-Sudden Catastrophe-Men swept overboard-A special Providence-How we are saved-A Traveller's Hymn
-Emotions of Gratitude and Impulses of Obedience-Behavior of the
Natives-Effect of Familiarity with Danger-Remark of Butler-The
Psalm of Life-The fatal Sequel of another Disaster-Conflict with the
Sharks-They win the Day-The Raft rises-Few escape-We gain the
Reef-Lagoons for Fish-How to make abstract Numbers concreteReefs described-Spiritual Analogies and Lessons derived-Rules for
the Navigator-The Divine Pilot-Ocean of Futurity-Site of the Molokai Mission-Head-quarters of LEolus-A Missionary's Grapery-The
two Vineyards, Natural and Moral-Division of Labor-Church and
School-Industrial Enterprise-The Maids of Molokai-Native Costume
versus the Foreign-Court Fashion and Rules of Dress-The Queen's
Way of Conformity-Criticisln on the fashionable Habiliments of the
Sex-Honest Remonstrance and Satire by Dana.................. 152
CHAPTER VIII.
THE CORAL MASONRY AND CORALS OF MOLOKAI AND OTHER PARTS OF THE
ISLAND WORLD OF THE PACIFIC.
Curious Work of Zoophytes - Sub-marine Gardens described - Living
Specimens exhibited-Letting a Crab out of Prison —How the Corals
grow-Theory for the Formation of a Coral Island-The Tumuli of a
buried Continent-Evidence of a re-elevatory Process.-Geological
Phenomena not accounted for-Observations of Williams, the Martyr
of Lromanga —Effect of Electricity in precipitating the Particles of




CONTENTS.                         13
Lime in Sea-water-Instances adduced-The Part it may have in the
Formation of Reefs-Views of Sir David Brewster examined-Mixture
of Fancy and Fact-Experiments of Peyronnel-Philosophical Analysis
-Secrets of Nature's Laboratory-R-esults of Coral Architecture-Astonishing Amount of Matter solidified-Observations of Captain Flinders
-Conditions necessary to the Perfection of Coral-The Coral Builders
watched — Work described-Banks reared-World-matter-Half-way
Island-Coral Formations of Rimatara-Honolulu Reef-Mediterranean
and Red Sea Coral-Rate of Growth-Effect of Light-Agents that re-,
duce it-Indian Ocean Coral-Appearance of a Reef between the Tides
-Millions of Worms observed-Facts gathered from Navigators-Coral
of Prose and of Poetry-Moss Corals by the Microscope-Zoophytic
Tribes classified by the Geologist of the U. S. Exploring SquadronScientific Deductions-Fejee Island Reefs described-Vast Size of individual Specimens-Notices of the Kingsmill Group-Vast Depth of
Soundings off the Reef-Uses of Coral-Natural and LEsthetic Ends
served.................................................. Page 175
CHAPTER IX.
REMINISCENCES OF LAHAINALUNA, AND SKETCHES OF THE FIRST HAWAIIAN
COLLEGE.
We recross the Molokai Channel by Canoe-Sketch of an Hawaiian College-Internal Economy and Discipline-Origin and History-Faculty:and Course of Study-Intention of the Founders-Ability and Usefulness of the first Graduates-Laws ahead of Morals-Wisdom not always
married to the Wis e-Prudence not limited to the Prudential-A Revolution in Progress-Signs of the Times-Entente Cordiale-Natural
Differences of Opinion among Missionaries-A Pastor's Expedient to
sound the Knowledge of his Flock-Great Difficulty of being simple
enough in the exhibition of Truth-Remarkable Answers of NativesHeathen Destitution of common Ideas-Consequent Inappreciation of
Scripture-Similar Experience of Missionaries in the East-Remarkable
Cases in Proof-Fruits of the great Revivial-Reasonings of practical
Men-Sources of correct Information-How to find the Meridian of
Truth-Illustration from the working of Longitude by Lunars.... 198
CHAPTER X.
HAWAIIAN LITERATURE AND LETTER-WRITERS.
Number of printed Works in the Hawaiian Tongue-Literary Contributions of Natives,-Newspapers in the Vernacular-An original Work on




14                         CONTENTS.
Hawaiian History-Installation of Native Ministers-A Collectlon of old
Meles-Translation of an original Song on the Creation.-Specimens of
Cupid's Epistolography-Letter from a Damsel of Lahaina-Others from
Students of the Seminary-Samples of the Hawaiian Madrigal-A Let.
ter from the Hilo School-girls-Others from Teachers in Kohala-Curious Vernacular Idioms-Letters from Men of Hawaii to a Society of
Ladies in America-Comments and Correspondences-Unique Epistle
from a Native Teacher-Ingenuous working of regenerated Minds-A
Study for the Philosopher —A Trophy of Triumph for the Christian
- Other Specimens of Hawaiian Literature - Cheering Proofs of
Progress.................................................. Page 221
CHAPTER XI.
RIDE AROUND THE ISLAND OF OAHU, AND NOTES BY THE WAY.
We return to Honolulu-Festivities of the Anniversary of Independence
-Effect upon Public Morals-Natural hankering after the Leeks and
Flesh-pots of Heathenism-Converts from Paganism now and in the
Apostles' day, one and the same-Comparison Institutedl-We mount
for Kaneohe-Visit by the Way to the Country Villa of the King and
Chiefs-Work, Trial, and Reward of the Pastor at Kaneohe-Mistaken
Timidity in admitting to the Church-Arguments for and against-Corroburative Views of Isaac Taylor-Practical working of an open Church
Polity and a close one contrasted-Going to Egypt for the Corn of
Scandal-Much ado about Nothing-Leonato to Antonio-We halt at
Waialua-Contrasts of Natural Scenery-Kaneohe the supposed Pit of
an old Volcano-Toilsome Descent-Picturesque View from its BrinkFace of the Country between the two Stations-Hospitality of a Teacher
at Hauula-Deportment of Natives met with on the Way-The stale
Charge of Hypocrisy considered-No new Thing for Religion to be
pressed into the Service of Selfishness-Examples of double Dealing in
the Pacific, by Foreigners-Prevalent Forms of Self-deception among
the Natives-Causes assigned-Treatment of Cases when discoveredRigor of Church Discipline-The Usages of the Church an Education
for Republicanism-The future Republic of the Pacific-A Prophecy
ventured2 44............................................     244
CHAPTER XII.
SIDE VIEWS OF HAWAIIAN CHARACTER AND DESTINY.
Relative Position and Fortunes of the Posterity of Shem and JaphethPractical Bearing upon the Labors of Missionaries-The ground Princi



CONTENTS.                          15
ple of uccess-Variety of Talents called into Exercise-How to be beloved and useful-Study of Books versus the Study of HIuman Nature
— Something had and Something wanting at Waialua —A Maxim
gathered from  Observation-Management of Cases of Casuistry-A
common Weakness commented upon-Difference of Behavior between
sentimental and genuine Sorrow-The acting of a fine Mind when Sin
or Grief-stricken, and that of a coarse Mind-The Hawaiian Infirmity
illustrated by a Fact-The Pea-hen everywhere-Native Volubility and
Destitution of Shame-Charities of the Waialua Church-A Manual Labor School-How established and why abandoned-We journey to Ewa
-A successful Experiment at Self-support-Remnarkable Proof of Disinterestedness-Progress reported-Honor to whom Honor is due-Fact
and Cause of the Nation's Decay-Alarming Statistics-Report of a Committee on Moral Reformll-Responsibility of Foreigners who have fed the
National Vice —Moral Strength of the Government now and formerlySuppression of Vice the Duty of Magistrates-Plea of Virtue and Humanity-Sophisms of the Selfish and Impure-Righteous Reasonings
of the Duke in the moral Play of Measure for Measure....... Page 262
CHAPTER XIII.
RETROSPECTIVE VIEW OF A QUARTER CENTURY IN THE HEART OF THE
PACIFIC.
We join Ship and weigh Anchor —Life and the World seen from Below
and from Aloft —Differences in the View made by Differences in the
Position and personal Estate of the Beholder-Light from Eternity colored by the stained Glass of the Mind —Eope for the ConvalescentHolding a Telescope to the Past-The great Landmarks-Astonishing
Statistics of Progress-Consecutive Review of Civilization and Christianity in the Heart of the Pacific-Detail of Results and Fruits, Economic, Literary, and Religious —Work to be done Projected-True Relation and Uses of the Sandwich Islands to America-Necessary leaning
of the one upon the other for Years to come-Disastrous Effects to be
apprehended if the Prop should be withdrawn-The true Policy of the
Christian Church in the Missionary Enterprise-Purposes of Providence
in the Island World-Chain of Events-Outlook upon the FutureProbable Type of Society-Transplanted Puritanism-Strict Sabbathkeeping-Anecdote of the Governor of Oahu-Facts illustrative of National Habits-First Law the Decalogue-A Change too great to be
credited-To whom and what the People ascribe it-Unbounded Confidence reposed in their religious Teachers-First Experiments by the
Chiefs-Fruits of the Trial-Unparalleled Instance of a moral Ascendency-Illustrative Anecdote of the present King-Traducers silenced




[t6                        CONTENTTS.
and put to Shame-Position of Dignity and Eminence-How attained
and the Ends to be answered by it-Relations of the Hawaiian Islands
to China, California, Mexico, and South America-Vista of Futurity
opened-Conjectures ventured- Ground of their Fulfilment-Falsehoods met-Shafts of Calumny repelled-Counter Testimony-Historians noticed-Volume concluded.......................... Page 283
APPENDIX.
Tabular Statistics of Exports and Imports at the Sandwich Islands for
1850-Resources and Revenue of the Hawaiian Kingdom-Government
Expenses, Trade and Commerce —Tabular View of Educational and
Religious Progress-Commercial Position and Advantages of Honolulu
-Review and Summary of the French Difficulties-Documentary History of the Negotiations with France-Rules of Conference, Protocols,
and final Declaration-Appeal to the United States-Progress of the
Anglo-Saxon Race-Copy of the late Treaty with the United StatesNotes-Professor Agassiz on Corals-Speculations as to their UsesTestimony of Sir George Simpson and R. C. Wyllie to the Value of the
Hawaiian Mission-Extraordinary Results in Molokai.............
LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.
MEALAKEEUA BAY IN THE DAYS OF CAPTAIN COOK......... iotispiece.
XAAHUMANU, QUEEN DOWAGER OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS
IN 1820.....................................iqette!itle
CHART OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS..................... To face p. 19
OLD HAWAIIAN IDOLS................................        28
LAHAINA AND LAHAINALUNA FROM THE ANCHORAGE AT
MAUI..........................................   6
THE HAWAIIAN SPORT OF SURF-PLAYING................        6 
VALLEY AND MOUNTAINS OF WAILUKU...................   ~  12
A SANDWICH ISLANDS DOUBLE CANOE.................... p. 
4 CIRCULAR CORAL ISLAND OF THE PACIFIC..............   p. 197.








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LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS,
CHAPTER I.
LOCAL TRADITIONS OF CAPTAIN  COOK, AND  GLIMPSES OF OLD
PAGANISM  IN  THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.
GLIDING through Magellan's Straits,
Where two oceans ope their gates,
Now th' immense Pacific smiles
Round ten thousand sunny Isles.
A notable wonder-Curious fancies of the Natives respecting the first Ship-They venture nigh in Canoes-They recognize their god Lono-They pay divine worship to
Captain Cook-They grow familiar with the Hailes-They smart under indignities
and exactions-The bent bow snaps-They are undeceived-The denouement-He
groans-He is not a god-The fight-The fall-The retreat-The burning of the
navigator's body-The exploits of Phillips-The narrative of Ledyard —The revenge
-The providence-We stand where Cook fell-W-re visit the spot where his body
was burned-Mionumental inscription-Natural reflection upon his end-Forms of
the old idolatry-Pagan notions respecting the soul-The realms of Wakea and Milu
-Providence and Grace in the Heart of the Pacific.
TIR.EESCOHE  and thirteen years ago there appeared in
the serene waters of a far island in the Pacific a notable
wonder, which has been succeeded by a greater wonder
still. Two ships. significantly called the Resolution and
Discovery, cast anchor in an unknown bay, called by
its aborigines  Kaawaroa, or Kealakekua.   They  were
commanded by an intrepid navigator, of the most intrepid and daring race that has ever ploughed the seas.
Their prows had ventured into strange oceans, and had
broken the primeval stillness of bays and roadsteads




20        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
which are now whitened with the wings of Commerce,
and struck by the propellers of mighty Steamers, then
an idea all unknown but to the Creative Mind who has
since given the steamboat, through Fulton, as a be.
nignant boon to our race.
These adventurous ships had anchored in the night,
as upon the coast of an undiscovered country, with
thoughts, perhaps, like those which a navigator in a
balloon would now have, whose anchor should catch at
midnight on some floating island of the great ocean
of air. In the morning, when the natives on shore first
beheld the strange sight, they were wild with amazement and conjecture. Unable to tell whence the wonder
came, or what it was, or how to express their astonishment at the sight, they cried out, "Moku! mokl!" the
Hawaiian word for island, as if it were a moving island;
and that is their name for a ship to the present day.
Then, as they gazed from a distance at the ship's
towering masts and branching spars, they exclaimed,
"It is a forest that has moved into the sea!" Soon the
chiefs commanded some of their men to go in canoes
and find out what this wonderful thing, this new moku,
might be. They approached so near as to survey, with
curious dread, the different parts of the ship and the
men on board; and then they returned, all wild with
excitement, and with the vain effort of their undisciplined minds, to describe what they had seen.
They had beheld the strangers as they looked over
the ship's sides eating something red, (being watermelon from Monterey,) and to their imagination it was




STRANGE FANCIES OF THE NATIVES.     21
the raw flesh of men: they had seen fire and smoke
about their mouths from cigars, and they reported them,
therefore, to be Fire-gods-gods of the Volcano. They
told in an exaggerated manner of the whiteness of their
skin, the brightness of their eyes, their garments rough
and strange, their heads horned like the moon, and their
speech all unintelligible gibberish-" A hikapalale, hikapalale-hioluai, oalakai."
The fire, they said, burns at their mouths like Pelethe Volcano. They have doors in their sides for property; openings going far down into their bodies, where
they thrust their hands, and draw knives, and iron, and
beads, and cloth, and nails, and every thing else, for
their bodies are full of treasure. Then a warrior by the
name of Kapupuu, hearing of the great quantity of iron
about the ships, (which they had learned the value of
by what had occasionally drifted ashore in strange
pieces of wood,) at once said, " I will go and seize the
iron, for plunder is my business."  He boldly went, according to his boast, but while in the act of purloining
was shot. Then the cluster of canoes with him fled, and
reported that Kapupuu was slain by a fire-ball, a yp
from the volcano-the pu being the only instrument like
a gun which they were acquainted with.
The succeeding night there was a discharge of cannon
from on board the ships, and a display of fire-works that
filled up the measure of wonder and dread in the minds
of those rude barbarians. Unable to believe any thing
else than that the new-comers were supernatural beings,
they called the Captain Lono, that being the name of




22        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
a fabled god of theirs who had gone into a foreign land,
and now they supposed had come back.
It was a tabu-week with them, when canoes were
ordinarily forbidden from being on the sea, and it was
death to be seen in one at such a time. But when they
saw Lono's moku there-the moving island of their
god-they were not afraid to use their canoes, because
their god had come to them, and his ship must be a
heiau, a temple. When they observed the seamen
calking the sides of the vessels, they called them Niokualii's company, Mokualii being the god of canoemakers. Those who had fire at their months they denominated Lono-pele-poe, or Lono's volcano-company.
But every wonder has its day and its end, and familiarity with the lcable, as they called the strangers, at
length began to breed dislike, if not contempt, on the part
of the eager natives. They found the foreigners to be
like themselves in lusts and covetousness, if superior
in power. At length the unwarranted act of the great
Lono in breaking down the wooden fence of their sacred
morai, or heicau, and loading his boats with it, in order
to supply his ships with wood, provoked their indignation beyond the power of their superstitious dread of
the gods to restrain.
Thefts, reprisals, insults, and bloodshed followed
quick upon one another, until a deep, uncontrollable resentment was kindled among the natives. But Captain
Cook —for he was the Lono, even according to the narrative of Ledyard, one of his men, who landed with
him on the morning of his death, and was near him




HOMAGE PAID TO CAPTAIN COOK.        23
during the fatal contest-blinded by some fatal cause,
could not perceive it, or, too self-confident, would not
regard it.
There is an historical work of much value written in
the Hawaiian tongue, a few years ago, by some of the
early adult pupils of the Seminary at Lahaina-luna, and
called Ka Moolelo Hawaii. Its materials were derived
from old men then living, and the accounts they gave
were afterwards compared and corrected by their
teacher, Rev. Sheldon Dibble, until a valuable authentic volume grew therefrom. The authors of this
say, that owing to their conviction that Lono (Captain
Cook) was a god, the people generally paid him divine
honors. They offered him hogs, food, kc~pa, (native
cloth,) and other articles, as they were accustomed to
bestow them on their deities, not expecting any thing
in exchange. The priests approached him with prostrations, and cast their red kapa over his shoulders;
then receding a little, they presented hogs, and a variety
of other offerings, with long addresses rapidly enunciated, which were a repetition of their prayers and religious homage.
" If on any occasion he went inland, the mass of the
people fled through fear, while all who remained fell
down and worshipped him. He was led into the houses
and temples of the gods, and worshipped there also;
and all this adoration was received without remonstrance, as in the case of Herod. Wherefore, some,
perhaps, may think for this cause, and for another already mentioned, he was smitten of God, and died."




24        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
These were the circumstances of that melancholy
event, as gathered from the Moolelo Hawaii, and the
Life of Ledyard: In a contest that ensued after the
demolition of the morai by Captain Cook, the stealing
of one of the ship's boats, and the killing of a chief in
a canoe, by a shot from one of the ships, the Captain
imprudently struck a high chief with his sword. Upon
this the chief, Kalaimano-iKahoowaha, seized him instinctively with his powerful grasp in order to hold him,
but with no idea of taking his life, Lono being, in his
view, a god that could not die. But when he struggled
to free himself, and groaned as he was about to fall, the
chief cried, 1" He groans, he is not a god," and instantly
slew him.
The fight then became general, in which many of the
natives were killed and some of the Captain's guard. In
the end the savages were routed and fled inland, taking
with them the bodies of the fallen Navigator, and four
of his companions. The king there presented the body
of the captain in sacrifice to the gods, and after that
ceremony was performed, they proceeded to remove the
flesh from the bones in order to preserve them. The
flesh was consumed by fire; the heart was eaten by
some children who had mistaken it for the heart of a
dog. Their names were Kupa, Mohoole, and Kaiwikokoole, one of whom was living only a few years ago.
Some of the bones of the dead were afterwards returned
to the ship, and the rest preserved by the priests, and
worshipped.
Ledyard's account of the same transactions is this:




THE NARRATIVE OF LEDYARD.         25
" Cook, perceiving the people determined to oppose his
designs, and that he should not succeed without further
bloodshed, ordered the lieutenant of marines, Mr. Phillips, to withdraw his men and get them into the boats,
which were then lying ready to receive them. This was
effected by the sergeant; but the instant they began to
retreat Cook was hit with a stone, and perceiving the
man who threw it, he shot him dead. This occasioned the
guard to face about and fire, and then the attack became general. Cook and Mr. Phillips were together, a
few paces in the rear of the guard, and perceiving a
general fire without orders, quitted Teraiobu, and ran
to the shore to put a stop to it; but not being able to
make themselves heard, and being close pressed upon
by the chiefs, they joined the guard, who fired as they
retreated.
" Cook having at length reached the margin of the
water, between the fire of the boats, waved with his hat
for them to cease firing and come in; and while he was
doing this, a chief from behind stabbed him with one of
our iron daggers, just under the shoulder-blade, and it
passed quite through his body. Cook fell with his face
in the water, and immediately expired. Mr. Phillips
not being able any longer to use his fusee, drew his
sword, and engaging the chief whom he saw kill Cook,
soon dispatched him.
" His guard, in the mean time, were all killed but two,
and they had plunged into the water and were swimming to the boats. IHe stood thus for some time the butt
of all their force, and being as complete in the use of
2




26        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
his sword as he was accomplished, his noble achievements struck the barbarians with awe. But being
wounded, and growing faint from loss of blood and excessive action, he plunged into the sea with his sword
in hand and swam to the boats; where, however, he
was scarcely taken on board, before somebody saw one
of the marines that swam from the shore, lying flat upon
the bottom. Phillips, hearing this, threw himself in
after him, and brought him up with him to the surface
of the water, and both were taken in.
"The boats had hitherto kept up a very hot fire, and
lying off without the reach of any weapon but stones,
had received no damage; and, being fully at leisure to
keep up an unremitted and uniform action, made great
havoc among the Indians, particularly among the
chiefs, who stood foremost in the crowd and were most
exposed.  But, whether it was from their bravery, or
ignorance of the real cause that deprived so many of
them of life, that they made such a stand, may be questioned, since it is certain that they in general, if not
universally, understood heretofore, that it was the fire
only of our arms that destroyed them.' This opinion seems to be strengthened by the circumstance of the large, thick mats they were observed
to wear, which were also constantly kept wet; and,
furthermore, the Indian that Cook fired at with a blank
discovered no fear, when he found his mat unburnt,
saying, in their language, when he showed it to the
bystanders, that no fire had touched it. This may be
supposed at least to have had some influence. It is,




THE SPOT WHERE COOK FELL.          27
however, certain, whether from one or both these
causes, that the numbers that fell made no apparent
impression on those who survived; they were immediately taken off, and had their places supplied in a
constant succession.
" Lieutenant Gore, who commanded as first lieutenant
under Cook in the Resolution, which lay opposite the
place where this attack was made, perceiving, with
his glass, that the guard on shore was cut off, and that
Cook had fallen, immediately passed a spring upon
one of the cables, and, bringing the ship's starboard
guns to bear, fired two round-shots over the boats into
the middle of the crowd; and both the thunder of the
cannon and the effects of the shot operated so powerfully, that it produced a most precipitate retreat from
the shore to the town."
It will be seen thus that the two records, Hawaiian
and English, of the melancholy transactions which give
such unwonted interest to this spot, substantially agree.
Hereafter pilgrim tourists in the Pacific visiting this
place, will find it replete with historical associations
mellowed by time; and glowing perhaps with enthusiasm, they will quote the oft-reiterated words of Johnson: —Far from me be such frigid philosophy as would
conduct us indifferent or unmoved, over any ground
dignified by wisdom, bravery, or virtue.-But, although
I have trodden the lava rock where the justly incensed
barbarians slew the great navigator, calling aloud, " He
groans,-he is not a god;" and have swum in the Bay's
blue waters at that very point; and have read the cop



28        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
perplate inscriptions upon the stump of the memorable
cocoanut-tree put there by British men-of-war; and
have been to the place further inland, where a rude
monument tells us that his flesh was burned;-yet at
neither locality could I start productively the meditative or heroic mood.
Perhaps it is because the imaginative notions of my
boyhood, respecting the Great Captain and Discoverer
in the Island World of the Pacific, have been reluctantly corrected by the more accurate information obtained
here on the spot in Hawaii-nei. The footprints Cook
has left on the sands of time, great as he was in many
respects, will never wear out; but the place and the
manner of his death we should contemplate less painfully, had the illustrious navigator, whose blood threescore and ten years ago crimsoned these peaceful waters, done more to direct the untaught natives to the
Great Jehovah, insteacl  of receiving divine homage
himsel.
God will not have his glory given to another, nor
will he with impunity let selfish gain be made out of
the principle of reverence for higher powers, which
himself has implanted in the human constitution.
Captain Cook wrongly attempted this, although, as
we would fain believe, not aware to what extent the
offerings paid him  were meant.as homage to a
God. Hence, in the order of retributive Providence,
his ignominious death at the hands of the very incensed barbarians whom he had allowed to worship
him.




FORMS OF THE OLD IDOLATRY.        29
A- glimpse of the besotted idolatry which the aborigines of this Island Kingdom of IHawaii were then
addicted to, and of the moral state of Hawaii AS IT WAS,
may be gathered from the engravings we give of some
of their idol gods.
It is a matter of curious interest to the philosopher,
in tracing the origin of the religious and mythological
notions of different savage tribes, to observe how they
are always modified by the physical objects, usages,
and scenery with which they are chiefly conversant.
The most terrific and impressive of all visible things
to Hawaiians being the Volcano, or Lua Pele, and its
cause unknown, they attributed all its phenomena to
gods there living, and those gods their imaginations
made like unto themselves.
Thus, the conical craters in the bed of the volcano
they regarded as the houses of their gods, where they
amused themselves by playing at konane, the favorite
Hawaiian game of drafts. The roaring of the volcano's furnaces, and the crackling of its sulphurous
flames, were deemed by them the kani to the 4uzla of
their gods, that is, the music of their dances, which were
naturally attributed to them, from their own addictedness to the same. The red flaming surge in the caldron of the volcano they called the surf, where their
gods played like themselves with surf-boards on the
great Pacific rollers.
In like manner, the Greenlanders and Esquimaux of
the Arctic regions, when first visited by Moravians, believed every thing in heaven to be after the pattern of




30        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
things on their earth; and they found it difficult to be
satisfied with the lBible promise of the Christian heaven, because it did not contain seals. The arch of heaven, in their view, turns round on the pivot of a high,
sharp peak, far to the north. The Great Bear they
compare to a sort of bench, on which they fasten their
ropes and harpoons for the capture of seal. The belt
of Orion consists of Greenlanders, who were placed
there because they could not find the way to their
own country. The Pleiades are howling dogs, which
surround a white bear. The red stars take their color
from eating seals' livers, the white from eating seals'
brains. The Northern Lights are caused by the souls
of the dead playing at ball. In the sky there is an
immense lake, confined by a dam; when the water
overflows this dan, it rains; and if the dam should
break, heaven would fall, and crush the earth.
The deities worshipped by Hawaiians were called
by the general name Aklua, and the number of them
was unlimited, expressed by their word  kini. Mr.
Dibble says the Hawaiians had six deities to whom
they gave names, but oftener addressed only four,
Ku, Lono, Kane, and Kanaloa. After naming these
four, and sometimes six, they then added the expression, the forty thousand, and the four hundred thousand gods, meaning an indefinite number.
These deities they regarded as spirits who had their
residence above, or in the clouds. They attributed to
them all the proud, fierce, cruel, and impure passions
of men; and supposed them of course to delight in the




'p11~~~~~~~~~~~~
OLD HAWAIIAN IDOLS,








HAW'AIIAN NOTIONS OF THE SOUL.        31
sufferings, and in the immolation even of human victims.
The people worshipped them usually by means of idols,
supposing that after the performance of certain ceremonies on the images, they became repositories, or at
least suitable remembrancers of the spirits above. The
people deny that they actdally worshipped the wood
and the stone, and to explain their use of images, they
refer at once to the practice of the Romanists with pictures and symbols.
" In regard to the soul, they had very inadequate and
confused notions. They supposed that after death the
soul, or rather the ghost, lingered for some time about
the deceased body, haunted in dark places, and made
its attempts occasionally in the night to strangle its
enemies. If any one was afflicted in the night with the
incubus, or night-mare, he regarded it as the attack of
some ghost upon his throat. On the evening of a dark
night I heard a horrid shriek in the street; it was that
of a strong, athletic man running with all speed, with
both hands at his throat, endeavoring to tear something
away. He soon reached the door of a house, burst his
way in, and fell on the floor, terrified even to faintness
and insensibility.  He imagined that the ghost of a
chief, who had deceased the day before, had a firm
gripe upon his throat, and was about to straigle him."*
The old Hawaiian notion of a future state was, that
after death the ghost went first to the region above belonging to WVakea, the name of their first progenitor.
* History of the Sandwich Islands, by Sheldon Dibble, p. 99.




32            LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
If in this life the man had observed religious rites and
ceremonies, the ghost was allowed to remain there in
comfort and pleasure with WVakea.  But if the  dead
had failed to be religious here, the soul found no one
there in the region of Wakea to entertain it, and was
forced to take a desperate plunge into a place of misery
below ruled by one they called Milu.
There are several precipices from the verge of which
unhappy souls were formerly supposed to take the leap
into the world of woe. Three in particular are pointed
out to the traveller: one at the northern extremity of the
island  of Hawaii, one at the western  termination  of
Maui, and a third at the southern point of Oahu.
We can hardly believe that the confused  and indistinct notions of the IHlawaiians respecting a future state,
or their absurd system of mythology,* at all prepared
* Idols were of every variety imaginable, from hideous and deformed
sculptures of wood, to the utmost perfection of their art. The features
of their religion were embodied in these images; the most desired object
in their manufacture being to inspire fear and horror, sentiments which
in a more refined people would, from such exhibitions, have been converted into disgust. Pele was the chief goddess. Hier principal followers
were Ka-ma-hu-alii, the King of Steam and Vapor; Ka-poha-i-kahi-ola,
the Explosion in the palace of life; Ke-ua-ke-po, the Rain of night;
Kane-kekili, Thundering god; Ke-o-ahi-kama-kaua, Fire-thrusting child
of war. These were brothers, and, like Vulcan, two of them were deformed. Ma-lkole-wawahi-waa, Fiery-eyed canoe-breaker; Hiaka-wawahilani, Heaven-dwelling cloud-breaker; and several others of longer names
and similar definitions; these latter were sisters.
The whole family were regarded with the greatest awe. The volcano
was their principal residence, though occasionally they renovated their constitutions amid the snows of the mountains. On such occasions their journeys were accompanied by earthquakes, eruptions, heavy thunder and
lightning. All were malignant spirits, delighting in acts of vengeance and




FABLES OF THE PAGAN  MYTHOLOGY.                    33
them to receive the revelations of Christianity. But as
it was the work of Divine Providence to make a way
for the entrance of Divine truth externally, so was it
the work of the Divine Spirit internally to procure its
reception to a degree, so unprecedented and remarkable,
by the mind and heart of the Hawaiian nation.  Some
of the steps in that process, and the triumphant issue of
the same in the Heart of the Pacific, we will endeavor
to trace in succeeding chapters that shall present the
Island Kingdom  of Hawaii AS IT IS.
destruction. Many tributes were assessed to avoid or appease their anger;
the greater part of which went to support the numerous and wealthy
priesthood and their followers, who regulated the worship of Pele. These
were held in the highest reverence, as holding in their power the devouring fires of the all-powerful goddess. To insult them, break their
taboos, or neglect to send offerings, was to call down certain destruction.
At their call, Pele would spout out her lava and destroy the offenders.
Vast numbers of hogs, both cooked and alive, were thrown into the crater
when any fear of an eruption was entertained, or to stay the progress of
one commenced. Offerings were annually made to keep her in good humor, and no traveller dared venture near her precincts without seeking
her good-will.-History of the Hawaiian Islands, by James Jackson
Jarves, pp. 28, 29. Honolulu, 1847.




34              LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
CHAPTER II.
KEALAKEKUA BAY NOW AND THIRTY YEARS AGO.
TILL missionaries' feet made glad
The solitudes by sin made sad;
Till songs to Christ took place of cries,
Shrieked o'er the monarch's sacrifice,No good was there,-no Godhead's beam,
No light did o'er the future gleam.
TAPPAN.
The trail from Kailua-Observed wealth of nature-Insight of the spiritual through
the veil of the natural-Analogy drawn and lessons derived-We view the ocean
from on high-Coffee plantation of a man from Maine-A relic from the times of
Kamehameha the Great-The premises of a missionary heave in sight-Primitive
hospitality-City of refuge at Honaunau —The Iona of Ilawaii-Ellis's account of it
quarter of a century ago-The hideous corpse of paganism-The deeds of despotsLegendary exploit of an Hawaiian Gracchus —Sole feature of humanity in the systein of paganism —Human sacrifices-Numbers once immolated —Last at Kealakekua-Comparison of Christianity with paganism-Incredible change-The theme of
song-The transforming agent-Investment of a Massachusetts wheelwright-How
to make eighteen hundred per cent. by a donation to missions-Death and life
springing from the same Bay of Kealakekua-Sketches of Obookiah-Providential
voyage to America, and adoption at Cornwall-Other links in the chain of Providence-Adventures of Thomas Hopu-Hopes from the Cornwall school-Natural
disappointment-The Heart of the Pacific in 1820 and 1850-Blessedness of the
change.
IN order that we may survey in this Chapter more
minutely an interesting portion of the Hawaiian HIeart
of the Pacific, I will take the reader upon my trail
from Kailua, Hawaii, to Kealakekua, on the same great
Island.   The  path  runs, for  six  miles along  the  sea,
through villages of cocoanut-palm groves, from which
the bronzed inhabitants, with little else than the habil



ASPECTS OF NATURE AND ITS LESSONS.     35
iments of nature, peeped and stared upon a stranger,
as I came that way, with curious eyes. I passed two
snug little bays that used to be favorite resorts of
Kamehameha the Great, in one of which was his bathing-place, tabu to every one else, and the heiau and
house of his favorite war-god Kfaili.
At Kiauhou, the path turned inland two miles, up a
rugged hill of lava, in ascending which, the beast I
rode made as much ado as if he had been brought up
on a Brussels carpet or an English lawn, instead of the
hoof-hardening pastures of iKailua. The path was
slightly worn by the bare feet of the natives, much as
the stone toe of St. Peter at Romne is kissed smooth by
the worshippers of baptized Jupiter Capitolinus. On both
sides were heaps and depressions of rough scoria and
slag, great boulders of lava, black broken masses,
crumbling cylinders, and spheroidal volcanic stones,
the surface of which had been fused, and in some
places had peeled off like a crust or shell, while the
centre of some of them was of a dark-blue color and
compact texture, and did not appear to have been at
all affected by the fire which had reduced the surface.
Jammed into clefts of lava, where there seems not a
particle of sand or earth, you may see there the splendid pink-white caper, (capparis,) with its hundred stamens, and delicious odor, and light-green leaves, lavishing alone its fragrance and beauty upon rough,
unsightly rocks. Even so, perhaps Jeremy Taylor
would say, have I seen beauty adorning the face of
deformity, virtue flourishing amid vice, and the wealth




36          LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
of warm affections and generous natures spent unpaid
upon selfish, sterile hearts. So, I would rather say, it
is the way of benignant nature to show the affluence of
her resources, to reveal the might and glory of a crea
tive, wonder-working God.
"She has a world of ready wealth,
Our minds and hearts to bless;
Spontaneous wisdom breathed by health,
Truth breathed by cheerfulness."
No one who has been through the barren parts of
Hawaii, or East Maui, can fail to have noticed this
beautiful shrub; how, as by elective affinity, it chooses
those unwatered, desolate tracts of lava, where there is
not a green thing else to sympathize with it, or be its
rival. There have I often observed it cheerfully exhaling its odors and hues, not unheeded by God and his
angels, though unnoticed of men. Even like a retiring, virtuous woman"Wisely she shuns the broad way and the green,
And with those few is eminently seen,
That labor up the hill of heavenly truth.
Her care is fixed, and zealously attends
To fill her odorous lamp with deeds of light,
And hope that reaps not shalne."
A half hour of such travel, as slow as it could be
and yet be called motion, brought me in sight of silvery kukuis and the oak-green bread-fruit tree, with its
eight-lobed leaves and golden fruit. At half past ten
I reached a beautiful table-land, where, by the lapse of




MAN FROM MAINE VS. RO IlSH PRIEST.    3t
time and the action of frequent rains, the lava has become disintegrated, and covered over with a prolific
soil. The sight of the plain of ocean, noiseless in the
distance, whitened here and there by the sail of a fishing-canoe, and extending off in its azure glory, till it
seemed to rise up into an eminence high as that I was
riding upon, was very beautiful.
I stopped a while to rest at the place of a man from
Maine, who was discharged here from a ship in 1811,
and entered into the service of Kamehameha, who
gave him his lands. In the evening of his days he has
become a member of the church. When under discipline, a few years ago, for intoxication, he was addressed by a Romish priest at Kailua: "The missionaries
have turned you out of the church for drinking, have
they?"  "Yes," he replied.  "I deserved it; for I
could not go to the table of the Lord defiled with
sin."
The Jesuit rejoined, "You have committed no crime.
God is willing we should enjoy ourselves, and what is
the harm of drinking a little brandy? God will forgive you. These missionaries are keeping you in fetters and superstition. I wish to see you at liberty and
enjoy yourself. If you will only join my church, I
will pledge my honor that you shall never be turned
out."  Disgusted with such a gross attempt to flatter
and seduce him, the man retorted, somewhat warmly,
"Yes; and I suppose the devil would not turn me out
of hell, if he got me there!" He is now restored, and
is living in good standing with the native church.




38         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Coffee is being extensively cultivated by this man
and his son-in-law. The tree, laden with fruit and ruffled leaves, its branches proceeding from the trunk horizontally, and filled out to the end with red coffee-berries, looking very much, when ripe, like the cranberry,
is a very beautiful specimen of tropical vegetation, deserving to be cultivated for its looks alone. The tree
here is said to be from twenty months to three years
in attaining its maturity. It will then bear, I am told,
two crops a year for twenty years. It is usually cut
off at the top when about five and a half or six feet
high, and will then produce about a peck of berries at
a time, or ten pounds of dried coffee annually, which
sells here for two reals or more a pound.
After a delay at this plantation of a couple of hours,
I proceeded hither by a path shaded with ohias, breadfruit, and kukuis. Long before reaching it, the missionary establishment hove in sight, with its thatched
roofs and whitened walls, and an air of taste and cultivation giving just promise of hospitality, intelligence,
and piety. /My guide and baggage-carrier had reached
here before, so that I found a room and entertainment
ready, with a missionary's cordial welcome to it.
Would that every Christian wayfarer could find wheree'er he wanders, for health or to do God's will, hospitality as grateful and cheering,!
There is a passage in " Colman's Christian Antiquities," in regard to the hospitality of primitive Chris —
tians, which I have often read with pleasure, and will
quote here, because it is so happily paralleled in what




PRIMITIVE CHRISTIAN HOSPITALITY.    39
I am now experiencing among missionaries: " The followers of Christ, how widely soever they were scattered
throughout the world, were then united as one great
family, and agreeing, as they did, in the happiness and
spirit of concord, to regard any local varieties of custom as matters of indifference, kept up a constant and
friendly correspondence with all the branches of the
Church universal; so that, whenever any of them went
abroad, either on their own private affairs, or on missions connected with the state and progress of religion,
they were received with open arms by the Christians
of the place as brethren.
"Go under whatever name they might, and travel to
remotest places, among people of foreign manners and
an unknown tongue, the pilgrims of the faith were sure,
wherever they met with a Christian, to find a friend,
whose house would be thrown open for their reception,
whose table would be spread for their entertainment,
and who would welcome them with a warmer heart
and a kindlier smile, than they were often met with by
their kinsmen and acquaintances at home. They were
treated by the family that received them as one of
themselves, had their feet washed by the wife on their
first arrival, and at their departure were anxiously and
tenderly committed to the divine care, in a prayer by
the master of the house."
On the other side of this Bay of IKealakekua, and off
to the south, is the celebrated old Puhonua or Hawaiian
city of refuge, at Honaunau, the ancient residence of
kings, where Kalaimoku, he that was afterwards called




40        LIFE IN TH:E SANDWICHI ISLANDS.
the Iron Cable of Hawaii, fled for refuge after the sanguinary battle that made IKamehameha the Great sovereign of the whole island. I say celebrated, because
this and one of the same kind in Waipio, Kohala, are
the only sanctuaries of the kind ever known to have
existed among pagans; and this has been frequently
spoken of by missionaries as a unique object among
the ruins of Paganism, to be contemplated with unusual interest.
When Ellis visited it in the year 1824, there was
standing within it a house called the House of IKeawe,
which would seem to have been to Hawaii what Iona
was to Scotland-a sacred depository of the bones of
departed kings and princes, probably first erected for.
the custody of his remains whose name it bore, a king
that reigned in Hawaii about eight generations back.
By pushing one of the boards across the doorway a
little on one side, Mir. Ellis says they could look in
and see many large images, some of wood very much
carved, others of red feathers, with wide-distended
mouths, large rows of sharks' teeth, and glaring pearlshell eyes. They also saw several bundles apparently
of human bones, cleaned, carefully tied up with cinet
made of cocoanut fibres, and placed in different parts
of the house, together with some rich shawls and
other valuable articles, probably worn by those to
whom the bones belonged, as the wearing apparel and
other personal property of the chiefs is generally
buried with them.
On the outside of the inclosure there were rudely




GRIM RELICS OF PAGAINISM.        41
carved male and female images of wood, some on low
pedestals under the shade of an adjacent tree, others
on high posts on the jutting rocks that overhung the
edge of the water. " At the southeast end of the inclosed place twelve of them stood in grim array,
forming a semicircle, as if perpetual guardians of the
mighty dead reposing in the house adjoining. Once
they had evidently been clothed, but now they appeared in the most indigent nakedness. A few tattered shreds round the neck of one that stood at the lefthand side of the door, rotted by the rain, and bleached by the sun, were all that remained of the numerous and gaudy ornaments with which their votaries
had formerly arrayed them.
"A large pile of broken calabashes and cocoanutshells lay in the centre, and fragments of kapa, the
accumulated offerings of former days, formed an unsightly mound before each of the images. The horrid
stare of these idols, the tattered garments upon some
of them, and the heaps of rotten offerings before them,
seemed no improper emblems of the system they were
designed to support; distinguished alike by its cruelty, folly, and wretchedness."
The traveller at this day sees none of these hideous
relics of the corpse of Paganism, that was then just slain,
and lay rotting, unburied, like a carcass thrown to carrion-birds. To visit here at that time, was like looking
down into one of those wide pits of living death and
festering decay, into which Defoe says they used to
cast the victims of the great plague in London. It




42          LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
was, as it were, stepping into the very rank tomb of
idolatry, where the horrid monster had been lately
tumbled all naked and gory, weltering in his own
blood and foulness, as he had long revelled in that of
his murdered victimsi"     besmeared with blood
Of human sacrifice, and parents' tears."
There now remain only a low fence of posts, and the
stone walls of the irregular parallelogram that constituted the Place of Refuge.  These are 715 feet long,
404 feet wide, about 12 feet high, and 15 feet thick.
Holes are still visible on the parapet or raised terrace,
where large images formerly stood about four rods
apart, through the whole extent.  There are fragments
of lava in these walls that must be of two or more tons
weight each, six or eight feet above the ground, which
it is difficult to imagine how Hawaiians could have
raised (as they must) without machinery, by the mere
force of the unassisted human hands. But the despots here of old knew how to use the bones and sinews
of their subjects with great executive effect, in hauling
heavy timber for their idols, and putting up immense
heeiaus, as well as to give their bodies a sacrifice to
"The devils they adored for deities,"
whenever the priest* or their own caprice called for
the Moloch offering.
* If a temple was to be built, the people had the stones to collect
for file walls, and the timber and posts to put up; they had the thatcll



FEAT OF AN IHAWAIIA.N GRACCHUS.                 43
Sometimes they made their lives so bitter with hard
bondage, imposed such intolerable burdens upon the
abject people, and bent the bow of their servile compliance so far that it suddenly snapped, with death to
the tyrant that strained it. In the mountainous parts
of Kan there is a steep, round hill, up which it is a
tradition among the people that a chief once required
his subjects to drag a huge log, which he was going
to set up there for his idol, to overlook all the land
and sea. They had succeeded, at intervals of time, in
drawing it two-thirds of the way up, when some Hawaiian Gracchus, heading the people, and gaining
them all over to his purpose, laid this plan to get rid
of their task and task-master. He feigned himself extraordinarily zealous in forwarding the work, got all
the people to man the lines, and then approached the
chief, who sat looking on, with this request —tlat he
would but put his shoulders once to the log from being to do; a levy for sustaining the service was made on them of hogs,
cocoanuts, bananas, kapa, red fish, bundles of baked kalo, fowls, and
other articles. The priest looked at the king, saying, "Let there be men
for the god." The king consented. " Let there be a house for the god."
The king consented. " Let there be land for the god." The king consente(l. Then the priest addressed the king again, "Let a hog be
hanged up for the god; let there be certain fish for the god; the first
fish for the god." The king consented. Then the priest proceeded,
" Let the land of the priest be sacred, free from taxes; let the house of
the priest be sacred, no one wantonly entering it; in short, let all that
belongs to the priest be in safety."  Thus the priest says to the king.
The king and the priest were much alike, and they two united were the
nation's main burden.-Ka foolelo Hawaii, in Hawaiian Spectator, vol.
II., p. 440.




44            LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
hind, and, at a given signal from himself, they would
all strain themselves to the utmost, and at one pull
run it up to its place. The purblind chief consented,
and with a simultaneous joyful effort they started the
log forward a few feet, and then suddenly let it go
back, crushing with its whole length and weight the
body of their oppressor, and thundering down the side
of the mountain, as on the slide of the Alpnach, till it
lodged in the level below, where they say a part of it
may be seen to this day.
But to  return  to  the  Pwhjonz ua,-   at  Honaunau.
X The Puhonuas were the Hawaiian Cities of Refuge, and afforded
a most inviolable sanctuary to the guilty fugitive, who, when flying from
the avenging spear, was so favored as to enter their precincts. This
had several wide entrances, some on the side next the sea, the others
facing the mountains. Hither the man-slayer, the man who had broken
a tabu, the thief, and even the murderer, fled from his incensed pursuers,
and was secure. To whomsoever he belonged, and from whatever part
he came, he was equally certain of admittance, though liable to be pursued even to the gate of the inclosure. Happily for him, those gates
were perpetually open; and as soon as the fugitive had entered, he repaired to the presence of the idol, and made a short ejaculatory address expressive of his obligations to him for reaching the place in
safety.
Whenever war was proclaimed, and during the period of actual hostilities, a white flag was unfurled on the top of a tall spear, at each end
of the inclosure, and until the conclusion of peace, it waved the symbol of
hope to those who, vanquished in fight, might fly thither for protection.
It was fixed a short distance from the walls on the outside, and to the
spot on which this banner was unfurled the victorious warrior might
chase his routed foes; but here he must himself fall back. The priests
and their adherents would immediately put to death any who should
have the temerity to follow or molest those who were once within the
pale of the pahu tabu; and, as they expressed it, under the shade or
protection of the Spirit of Keawe, the tutelar deity of the place.




A PAGAN HOUSE OF REFUGE.                    45
Whether it was first instituted by priests, as a means
of increasing their power by binding to their interests
all who should owe safety to its protection; or by some
Hawaiian Alfred, in  order to mitigate the cruelty of
idolatry, and provide an offset to the sanguinary character of their wars; or whether it was derived, as some
suggest, traditionally from the Israelitish cities of refuge, it is not easy to determine.  However the institution may have originated, the Place of Refuge itself is
an interesting spot, which no visitor on this side of
Hawaii will fail of going to see.
The grim idols that received the man-slayer within
their strangely-friendly pale, like a wolf turning his
den into a sheep-fold, are gone.  The high-priests of
idolatry are all dead, and there are few surviving who
can tell you any thing of the transactions that have
taken place here. The Gospel of Christ precluding
and extinguishing murder and war, supersedes the necessity of this singularly humane feature of cruel Paganism. It is almost too great a tax on the traveller's.In one part of the inclosure, houses were formerly erected for the
priests, and others for the refugees, who, after a certain period, or at the
expiration of war, were dismissed by the priests, and returned unmolested to their dwellings and families; no one venturing to injure those
who, when they fled to the gods, had been by them protected. The
PuhonuaL at Honaunau is very capacious, capable of containing a vast
multitude of people. In time of war, the females, children, and old
people of the neighboring district, were generally left within it, while
the men went to battle. Here they awaited in safety the issue of the
conflict, and were secure against surprise and destruction in the event
of defeat.-Ellis's Missionary Tour through Hawaii, pp. 137, 138.




46        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
credulity to ask him to believe that a people now so remarkably peaceable and gentle, among whom the safety of human life and property is unparalleled anywhere
on the face of the earth-that only one generation back
they were the warlike, ferocious, infanticide race, sacrificing each other to their gods, which unqnuestionable
facts make them to have been.
The last human sacrifices are said to have been made
at this place in 1818. One man was then sacrificed for
putting on the malo (girdle) of a chief, one for eating a
forbidden article of food, one for leaving a house that
was tabu and entering one that was not, and a woman
was put to death for going into the eating-house of her
husband when intoxicated. On the authority of natives, former kings have immolated eighty victims at
once, as in the days of Umi, whose blood-thirsty god,
after one of his victories, kept calling from the clouds,
Give, give, until the priest and himself were all that remained of his train.
In the revolution so marvellously effected at these
Islands, how remarkably is fulfilled that prediction of
Holy Writ in the Prophecy of Zephaniah, Thee Lord
wvill FAhiISI all the gods of the earth; and mqen shall
worslhip him every one from  his _place, even, all the
ISLES of the heathen /
When the first band of missionaries landed at Kailua, only fifteen miles from this Bay, in the spring of
1820, just thirty-one years ago, the appearance of the
natives was thus described by one of that heroic company:-"A first sight of these wretched creatures was




HEROISMI OF THE FIRST MISSIONARIES.   47
almost overwhelming. Their naked figures and wild
expression of countenance, their black hair streaming
in the wind as they hurried the canoe over the water,
with all the eager action and muscular power of savages; their rapid and unintelligible exclamations, and
whole exhibition of uncivilized character, gave to them
the appearance of being half-men and half-beast, and
irresistibly pressed on our minds the query:' Can they
be men  C an they be women? -Do they not form a
link in creation connecting man with the brutes?'
This, indeed, seemed to be the general impression.
The officer heading the boat sent to the shore, on his
return exclaimed, as he ascended the deck,' Well, if I
never before saw brutes in sAape of men, I have seen
them this morning;' and, addressing himself to some
of our company, added,'You can never live among
such apeople as tahis: we shall be obliged to take you
back with us.'"
Some of their number, says Mr. Bingham, with gushing tears, turned away from the spectacle. " Others, with
firmer nerve, continued their gaze, but were ready to exclaim,'Can these be human beings! Hiow dark and
comfortless their state of mind and heart! How imminent the danger to the immortal soul, shrouded in
this deep pagan gloom!  Can such beings be civilized? Can they be Christianized?  Can we throw
ourselves upon these rude shores, and take up our
abode, for life, among such a people, for the purpose of training them for heaven?''Yes,' (they replied,) though faith had to struggle for the victory,




48        LIFE IN THE SANDWICI ISLANDS.'these interrogations could- all be answered in the affirmative.'"
These were the hopes of the pioneers themselves,
sustained by secret refreshings from on high, and their
life hid with Christ in God. But tell us now, ye men
of the world, judging according to sense, what canl
these humane but Quixotic fanatics, as they were then
deemed, what can they do with these untutored abjects
of humanity in the remote heart of the Pacific? WlXhat,
think you, will become of them, left all defenceless
with these " brutes in the shape of men?" Two husbands and wives from the realm of Christendom, u1lbacked by navies, unsupported by armies, planting
themselves at the very heart of the most abject paganism, among a horde of naked, squalid savages, already
doubly brutified and debased below the level of ordinary savageism, by contamination from those moral ulcers which had been bred by the riffraff of civilization
-what shall they do there?
What means do they possess of transforming such miserable creatures into intelligent, conscientious, civilized
and Christianized men and women? Will they succeed in
the experiment? Or will they fail?  Will the labor and
money expended upon them be thrown away to no pnrpose? Or, going forth and weeping, bearing precious
seed, will they come again with rejoicing, bringing their
sheaves with them? Let the harvest of 1850 answer,
just one generation from the deposit of the first germ:TWENTY-TWO THOUSAND MEN AND VWOTIEN IN THE CHIRISTIANI CHURCH; SEVENTEEN THOUSAND PUPILS IN CHRIS



MEANS OF THE MARVELLOUS CHANGE.        49
TIAN SCHOOLS; and their contributions in the year 1849,
while decimated by a wasting epidemic, to different
religious objects, over Seven thousand Dollais!
Statesmen and philosophers, and socialist reformers,
have started innumerable plans and theories for the
improvement of our race and the reconstruction of society. But while we behold here a triumph of the
Gospel over the direst combination of evil influences,
what instance is there on record, in the annals of the
human family, of a nation emerging from barbarism
by any other means, and ascending to a moral position
so eminent, in a single generation? Is there any other
agency known to man, but the " foolishness of preaching," capable of producing such results?  We say
with certainty, No, there is not.
I-ad Napoleon obtained for France to the full his
three wishes —" i desire Ships, Colonies, and Commerce"-they would never have done for France, or for
the countries colonized and traded with, what Christianity has done for the Island Heart of the Pacific.
The transformation here accomplished is little less than
miraculous.
Never, in the history of man, has so great a change
been. effected in so short a time. Where robbery and
murder but a few years ago were practised as trades,
and were events of every-day occurrence, life and property are now safer than under any long-established government that can be named. Great as is the Hawaiian
love of vwa'wa'J, (property,) and degraded and bad as
they still are in many ways, yet such is now the force
3




50        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANI)S.
of law and the effect of the Gospel, that we might almost say a man may travel afoot and by canoe, through
the entire' cluster of Islands, from IHawaii to Niihau,
and with a net bag of shining dollars, without fear of
molestation, unless it be from some desperate runaway
foreigner, or a straggling Hawaiian sailor, hardened by
his cruises abroad. If the same be true of any other
land, we have yet to know it. To the Gospel, that has
wrought the change, be all the glory.
Christianity as the Cause, Commerce and Civilization
as the consequents and handmaids, have done it all.
Without the missionary, carry to them all you could of
modern art and culture, Hawaiians to this day would
have lived and died in as besotted and gross barbarism
as in the days of Cook. God would not be in all their
thoughts; and where God is n6t honored, civilization
can neither be established, nor can it hold its own. It
was because the glorious Gospel of the Son of God went
first to this Island Heart of the Pacific in the year
1820, that facts like the following turn up in the year
1850.
When the Sandwich Islands Mission was first started, a young wheelwright in Massachusetts was called
upon to contribute for it, and was told that his quota
would be a dollar. He paid it, but with the feeling
then that the dollar was thrown away. W5ithin the
present year this same wheelwright has received an
order from those Islands for twenty pairs of cart-wheels
and bodies, at ninety dollars a pair.
Now we say with confidence, that without the Chris



COMMERCIAL VALUTE  OF CHRISTIANITY.                  51
tianity there* which this wheelwright's Jirst dollac~ helped to establish, Commerce, with all its boasted facilities,
could never have returned  him  the eighteen  hundred.
And the fact shows that, if men wish to invest their money
where it will yield a dividend of eighteen hundred per
cent., they had  better put it into  the treasury of Missions.
The religion of the Gospel is the only lever that can
pry up the nations, and put them in the way of improvement by commerce and civilization. Christianity
is itself the most perfect civilizer hitherto discovered.
John Williams very truly remarks, that, until the peoX The money-value of Christianity at the Sandwich Islands is further
shown in these two facts. A plantation on the Island of Maui, which a
few years ago cost less than $5000, has recently (in 1851) been sold for
$30,000; and a small store-lot at Honolulu, purchased of a chief about
the time of the arrival of the missionaries for a mere trifle, has lately
sold for $10,000.
The gross domestic exports from the Islands in 1849 were valued at
$103,743.14.  In 1850, $380,323.63.  Increase more than three-fold.
Gross value'of imports in 1849, $129,730.44. In 1850, $1,053,053.70.
Increase nearly two-fold. Number of vessels that visited the Islands in
1849:-Merchant vessels, 180; whalers, 214; vessels of war, 13: total,
467. In 1850: —Merchant vessels, 469; whalers, 237; vessels of war,
14: total, 720.  Value of supplies furnished these vessels in 1849,
$81,340.00.  In 1850, $140,000.00.  Both the number of vessels and
value of supplies nearly doubled in a year.  The gross value of the supplies and exports for 1850 was $536,522.63. The exports of sugar increased from 653,820 lbs. in 1849, to 750,238 in 1850; of coffee, from
28,231 lbs. in 1849, to 208,428 in 1850; of Irish potatoes, frol- 858 bbls.
in 1849, to 51,957 in 1850; of sweet potatoes, from 306 bbls. in 1849, to
9,631 in 1850.
The number of framed houses erected in Honolulu and vicinity during
the year 1850 was three hundred and fifty.




52           LIFE IN TIEI SANDWICH ISLANDS.
pie are brought under the influence of religion, they
have no desire for the arts and usages of civilized life;
but that invariably creates it. While nations are under
the power of their superstitions, they evince an inanity
and torpor, from which no stimulus has proved powerful enough to arouse them, but the new ideas and new
principles imparted by Christianity.
Was it that the savage Sandwich Islanders, in the
days of Cook, did not discover God by the light of nature?.Were not the invisible things of him  from the
creation of the world clearly seen, being understood by
the things that are made, even his eternal power and
Godhead?
Knew they not God?-They might have seen
His beauty in the glorious green
Of these fair Isles, and heard his voice
In Nature's song, that bade Rejoice!
And witnessed in the soil they trod,
Heaved up in coral wonder-God!
And marked HIS footsteps, bathed in wrath,
Oil the volcano's fiery path.
But all in vain;-though every hill
Its Maker knew; each conscious rill,
Leaping and sparkling, told of HIII;
Morn's blush, and Evening's twilight dim,
Proclaimed their God; though valleys rang,
And the blue-waved Pacific sang;
And mountain, mead, and rock replied,
" Gold! God!"-they heard not, raved, and died!God was not in all their thoughts until enthroned there
by  Christianity, brought in  God's own  providential
time, and inaugurated in his own way in the Heart of
the Pacific, so as best to answer the part to be fulfilled




LINKS IN THE CHAIN OF PROVIDENCE.       53
by these Islands in the conquest of the entire Island
World of the Pacific, and of the great continents that
lie upon it, for the Lord Jesus Christ.
It is remarkable to notice how, in the providence of
God, death to the first discoverer of the Sandwich Islands, and spiritual life to their depraved aborigines,
should both issue instrumentally from the bosom of this
Bay of XKealakekua. This was the birth-place of Opukahaia, or Obookiah, and it was his embarkation at this
port, accidental as it seemed, in 1809, on board an
American trader, that forged the important link' in the
chain of events which was finally completed in 1819,
just ten years after, in the embarkation of the missionary band from Boston for Hawaii in the brig Thaddeus.
On board the American trader there was a pious
student of Yale College, who took much pains on the
voyage to America to instruct the tawny Hawaiian
sailor in the rudiments of knowledge. Along with his
companion, Thomas Hopu, he was taken, on their arrival, to New Haven, where the spark of missionary zeal
may be said to have been first struck out, in the suecessful efforts of some of the students there, to initiate
these youth into the elements of learning and Christianity. " The friends of Christ in New England were
led to look upon these sons of Paganism, thus providentially brought to their doors, as having a claim for
sympathy, care, and instruction in the Christian doctrine; and, in attempting to meet this claim, they cherished the reasonable hope that suitable efforts to enlight



54         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
en and convert them would tend to the evangelization
of their idolatrous nation."*
Aiming to secure the salvation of these strangers,
and to make their agency available in disseminating
the Gospel through heathen countries, the American
Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions established, in the year 1816, a trial school at Cornwall, Connecticut, for whatsoever sons of unevangelized barbarians they could gather together. Hereby was fanned
the nascent flame of the Island Mission, which in due
time was to irradiate the Heart of the Pacific with so
wide a blaze.
Let us pause and mark here the hand of God. "The
time of blessed visitation," says Hollis Read, "had
come for the isles of the sea. The English churches
had already taken of the spoil of their idols, and were
rejoicing and being enriched by their conquests. The
American Zion must participate in the honor and profit
of the war. Hence Henry Obookiah, an obscure boy,
without father or mother, kindred or tie, to bind him to
his native land, must be brought to our shores; be removed from place to place, from institution to institution, everywhere fanning into a flame the smoking fax
of a missionary spirit, and giving it some definite direction; be made the occasion of rousing the slumbering
energies of the Church on behalf of the heathen, and
of kindling a spirit of prayer and benevolence in the
hearts of God's people; and finally, and principally,
* Bingham's History of the Sandwich Islands, p. 57.




SKETCHES OF THOMAS HOPU.          55
his short and interesting career, and perhaps, more than
all, his widely lamented death, must originate and mature a scheme of missions to those Islands, the present
asplect of which presents scenes of interest scarcely inferior to those of the apostolic age."'*
The companion of Opukahaia, Thomas Itopn, I met
at I(ailua. He was then fifty-two years of age, and
was the sixth man living of those that came from
Cornwall, all but one of whom were then said to be in
good standing in the church, although they had all
been wayward and unstable.
He gave me a graphic account of sundry early adventures of his when a sailor, before he went to Cornwall: how he was the means of saving all on board
the schooner he was in, when it was overset at sea, and
the masts sprang out as she capsized. He dove under
and bit off a rope that held the boat; then got it to
the floating masts, and, freed of water, helped the crew
into it, and rigged a sail out of the captain's shirt,
through which, by a propitious Providence, they reached, just alive, one of the WVest Indies. Though a wicked sailor, he said he often prayed then to God in the
Lord's Prayer, which he had learned while first going
to America with Henry Opukahaia.
From the West Indies he shipped again to the United
States; but it being the time of the last war with England, the brig was captured by a British cruiser not far
from  Newport, and  carried into Tarpaulin  Cove.
* Hand of God in History, by Hollis Read. Hartford, 1849. P. 138.




56        LIPFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
There, according to his story, he prevailed upon his
shipmates to seize a Yankee sloop the British had
brought in there. They succeeded in the enterprise,
and returned with the sloop to the very port where it
was owned.
Reclaimed from the sea, and adopted by the benevolent, {Hopu now lived for three years at Cornwall,
where, although he never enlisted the sympathy and
interest that were attracted to Obookiah, he was fitted
for an important part, at first, as interpreter to the early
missionaries, and a teacher in the schools.
While at the Cornwall lfission School, it is related
of him that he took a journey into the country with a
friend, and spent an evening with a company who were
much entertained by the questions proposed to him by
an irreligious lawyer, and his amusing answers. At
length Thomas said, in substance, " I am a poor heathen boy. It is not strange that my blunders in English should amuse you. But soon there will be a larger
meeting than this. We shall all be there. They will
ask us all one question, namely,'Do you love the Lord
Jesus Christ.'  Now, sir, I think I can say, Yes.
What will you say, sir?"
He ceased, and an oppressive stillness pervaded the
room. At length it was broken by a proposition of the
lawyer, that, as the evening was far spent, they should
have a season of devotion, in which Thomas should
lead. It was acceded to; and Thomas, in his accustomed meek and affectionate manner, addressed the
throne of grace. Soon he prayed for the lawyer in




THE LAWYER AND SA.NDWICH ISLANDER.     57
person, alluding to his learning and talent, and besought that he might not be ignorant of the way of
salvation through Christ.
As he proceeded thus, the emotion of the lawyer rose
above restraint. He sobbed aloud. The whole comnpany were affected, and sobs drowned the speaker's
voice. When they separated for the night, and retired
to their respective rooms, there was no rest to the lawyer, for the question of Thomas still rung in his ears,
" Wohat will you say, sir?"  Nor did its echo cease till
the Spirit of God renewed his heart, and he truly found
the Saviour.
This same Thomas IHopu is now bronzed and wrinkled beyond his years, and his lamp of life must soon
go out. Though his conduct as a Christian since his
return is said to have been by no means always exemplary, nor his influence upon his countrymen what was
to have been looked for from his advantages, we must
lean to the side of charity in our judgments both of him
and his fellows.
Mr. Dibble very properly says, that too much had
been expected of them. They were found exceedingly
ignorant, and of course, therefore, were miserable interpreters, and very poor teachers. They were often found
teaching doctrines and precepts altogether opposed to
the precepts of the Bible, and to the spirit of the Gospel. Those of the Cornwall youth especially, that came
with the first reinforcement, were deemed a hindrance
rather than a help. " To have visited a foreign land,
to be better clad than their fellow-countrymen, to re3*




58        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
ceive some attention from chiefs and foreigners, were
distinctions which their weak brains and undisciplined
minds could not endure.">
These youth having so far failed as interpreters, the
missionaries were thrown upon their own skill and application for getting a mastery of the Hawaiian tongue.
To this great work, therefore, of learning and reducing
to writing a language barbarous and unklinown, they accordingly devoted themselves with a patient, yea, heroic
assiduity. The marvellous result of their labors the
universal world of humanity now knows and feels.
How vast the difference between the Hawaii which
they found in 1820, and the Hawaii which, under God,
they have made in 1850!
In the marvellous change thus effected at this longlost Atlantis of the Pacific, we catch a glimpse of what
may be realized the world over, when that prophecy of I-Ioly Writ shall be fulfilled which says that
THE EA RTH SHALL B1E FILLED WITH TIIE KNOWLEDGE OF
THE GLORY OF THE LORD AS TIIE WATERS COVER THE
SEA. THEY SHALL NOT HURT NOR DESTROY IN ALL MY
HOLY!IMOUNTAIN.
* Dibble's History of the Sandwich Islands, p. 173. Lahainaluna
Mission Press, 1842.




HOSPITABLE PORT OF LAHAINA.                          59
CHAPTER  III.
LAHAINA AND ITS ENVIRONS ON THE ISLAND OF MAUI.
HAPPY, oh! happy he, who not affecting
The endless toils attending worldly cares,
With mind reposed, all discontent rejecting,
In steady pace his way to heaven prepares;
Deeming his life a scene, the world a stage,
Whereon he acts his useful pilgrimage.
ANON.
Good-bye to Hawaii-Grateful reminiscences-The continental character of missionaries-Portraiture of a good priest-Run to Maui by whale-ship-Facilities for recruiting at Lahaina-Seamen's chaplain-Gratuitous services of missionaries-Sailors
always careless when not cared for —Winding up of a liberty-day at Lahaina, in the
season of ships-An honorable pre-eminence —Iawaiians a surf-playing-Sea-bathing
a national passion-Array of arguments for the people supporting their own ministers-Peculiar advantages at Lahaina-The Hawaiian democracy-Remarkable running out of the race of rulers-Precious dust in God's acre-Character and influence
of the high chief Hoapili-A striking anecdote-Vistas of prophecy opened-Tendency of things-Cheering progress.
TuRN we now, in prosecuting this survey of the moral
Heart of the Pacific, to another portion of the Hawaiian
group.   We pay a reluctant farewell to the  hospitable
Island of Hawaii, in whose missionary families, churches,
and schools, as portrayed in " The Island World of the
Pacific," I find myself to have become more deeply interested than I could have believed. The friendships
of studious years have been renewed. New ones, that
will be ever cherished and fiagrant, have been formed.
The good fruits of the Gospel, and the benign results of
faithful missionary  labor, have  been  observed; and  a




60         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
debt incurred of that kind which, while it cannot be
cancelled from  the mint, a debtor loves to be paying,
and a creditor to be receiving from the mental mine of
genuine affection, good wishes, and prayers.
It is that kind of obligation which a truly hospitable
and good man likes to have others under to himself,
and it is the only debt which does not worry, and which
he is willing to be burdened with himself, as answering
the apostolic injunction, To owe no gman, cmny thing, but
to love one another. It is a commodity which it were
happy indeed if all Christians lived so much within
their means, and with such true Christian simplicity
and prudence, as to be able to pay all their debts in.
The pressure of the times would be little felt if a plenty
of that were in circulation, and if discounts were oftener
made between man and man in that genuine currency.
Its quality, like that of mercy, is not strained,
Both blessing him that gives and him that takes.
It is of the kind words, attentions, hospitality, and
help which love dictates between friend and friend,
and from his host to the traveller, and which humanity
calls for from the rich and prospered in society to the
unfortunate and needy, that our American poet Dana
says,
They make not poor:
They'll come again full-laden to your door.
Lord Bacon, too, has beautifully said, If a man be gracious to strangers, it shows that he is a citizen of the
world, and that his heart is no iscland cut off from other




A TRIBUTE TO AMERICAN MIISSIONARIM S.          61
lands, but a continent that joins them.  The friends
with whom I have been sojourning, are eminently continental in their make and their manners. WVith the great
Continent of IHumanity, and every member of it, they
are closely allied, and nothing human is foreign to them.
Though their range be but an island, their sympathies
embrace the world; and the sweep of their prayers
and their charities is as wide as that of the glorious
ocean that laves their shores.
A man that lives to do good, (the only life worth
living,) may think himself well off to have his lot cast
among the missionary band of Hawaii. Assured of a
steady living, and delivered from so much that is artificial and hollow in society, they have only to devote
themselves to their families and to their proper missionary work. Theirs is not the bread of idleness. And
if they labor hard, and have some discouragements and
trials, not easily appreciated by men that live in America, they have' the solace, too, that their toil is not unblessed, and that the sympathy and prayers of many
are with them.  Some of them realize to a rare degree
Bishop Ken's portraiture of "A Good Priest:"
Give me the Priest these graces shall possess:Of an ambassador the just address;
A father's tenderness, a shepherd's care,
A leader's courage, which the cross can bear;
A ruler's awe, a watchman's wakeful eye,
A pilot's skill, the helm in storms to ply;
A fisher's patience, and a laborer's toil,
A guide's dexterity to disembroil;
A prophet's inspiration from above,
A teacher's knowledge, and a Saviour's love.




62        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
They are a united and affectionate body, that have eaminently the confidence and love one of another, and
they have the confidence and love of the IHawaiians to
the utmost. [May it be so always, and may every
fresh accession to their forces be an accession of execitive and moral strength! BIMay peace be on them andil
mercy, and upon the Israel of God of which they hate::'.
the charge!  Peace be within her wacls.  Acay tAey-:
prosper that love thee. For mny brethren cand cormanions' sake I will now say, Peace be withinr yo6u.
The disability of bodily indisposition prevented my
making the tour of Hilo and Puna with the pastor,
Rev. ]Mr. Coan, and afterwards going across MIauna Pea
to Waimea, the station occupied by Rev. Lorenzo-;
Lyons. I wished, also, to be near at hand to this port
in the shipping season, in order to take advantage of any
good opportunity that might occur for America. Taking
passage, therefore, in a whale-ship that touched at Hilo
for supplies, I am here, after an easy run'of two days.
The roadstead of Lahaina, as usual in spring and
fall, is anchored in all over by large whale-ships, that
have come in from the different cruising-grounds of the
Pacific to recruit, where supplies of all kinds can be
obtained on more advantageous terms, and with less
detriment to the men, than at any other place in this
ocean. It has been visited the last two seasons, fall
and spring, by about four hundred ships, that spend on
an average, at a very moderate estimate, three hundred
dollars each, making the sum-total of $120,000 yearly
disbursements at this port. The estimated value of the












STATISTICS OF LAIAIiNA WHALE-SHIPS.   63
whale-ships and cargoes entered at Lahaina and Itonolulu, between 1844 and 1845, was $1T,733,411; of disbursements there, $150,000.
The supplies furnished by the natives are goats, hogs,
poultry, fruit, and vegetables, especially Irish potatoes,
for which they get money and cloth, or other articles
of exchange. Fresh beef, also, is supplied by foreigners. Other supplies, as of salt provisions, bread, cordage, and ship-chandlery in general, are furnished almost
exclusively by. one American house, that take bills
drawn upon ship-owners in America and Europe, at a
rate of twenty per cent. for exchange.
The concurrence here of such large whaling fleets
makes Lahaina a most desirable place of labor for a
seamen's chaplain.  Estimating twenty-five seamen
only to a ship, the port will be visited by ten thousand
annually: not, indeed, ten thousand different seamen,
but that number in two different times.
From the first year, 1823, in which this was made a
missionary station, to the present time, more or less of
a chaplain's work has been done for them by the resident missionaries. Until he left, in 1825, it was ir.
Stewart's special department; in whose time were perpetrated the atrocious outrages upon government and
the mission by disappointed sailors and their infamous
captains.
Rev. Mr. Spalding, the lamented associate of Mr.
Richards, labored some years after among them with
great acceptableness. On his failure, the work fell
upon ]M~r. Baldwin, who had at the same time the




64        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
pastoral care of the church in the absence of Mr. Richardsi and the medical department for Maui. A building has been erected, and an upper room finished for a
chapel, by the contributions of shipmasters and foreigners at Lahaina.
During one year, the Rev. Lorrin Andrews, for some
years a missionary of the American Board, now in the
employ of government, was engaged by the residents
here to supply the desk. Two hundred and forty dollars were contributed by shipmasters and residents for
his support. He labored, however, only on the Sabbath, and preached once the same day in a school-house
to a little congregation of natives, in a remote part of
Lahaina.
A man was needed to labor daily among the residents and seamen, who might come into personal
rencontre, and employ what Dr. Beecher used to call
the short-sword and dagger of personal conversation
and Tract-giving.  Through the providence of the
American Seamen's Friend Society, such a laborer is
now supplied in the person of Rev. Air. Taylor, who
has been stationed here since the year 1848 as the
local seamen's chaplain. It will be in his power,
through God's blessing, to preclude much sin and suffering on the part of those otherwise unfriended seamen, who, having no man to care for their souls, are
likely to care little for themselves, except how they
may secure the pleasures of sin for a season.
It was painful to go out among them here about sundown, when their liberty expires, and, drunk or sober,




HUMILIATING SCENES AT LA-IAINA.      65
they must be off to their ships, or into the fort. Liquor
and lust had by that time done their best to inflame
many of them, and your ears would be shocked by
ribald oaths, and the language of lewdness, caught up
and repeated by native boys; and you would see some
reeling to and fro at their wit's end, and hustled along
by some less drunken comrade; and others without
shame, caressed and hung upon by native girls, who
flock here in the ship season, from other parts, to get
the ready wages of sin. The populace of both sexes
were out to see what was a-going, and to catch the contagion and cant of vice. It was a scene of vileness,
disgust, and abomination, which no virtuous man, if
possible, would see but once.
You seemed to behold busy devils scouting about
one of the breathing-holes of hell, running into the
drunken herd, and chuckling with Satanic glee over
the human victims which they were making ten-fold
more the children of hell than themselves. It was a
sight to make a missionary weep, and any foreigner in
whom virtue and shame have not become extinct,
To blush,
And hang his head to think himself a man;
a countryman, perhaps, of those who were making
themselves and the recent heathen so vile.
It ought to be added to this picture now, that, just
after my visit at Lahaina, the sale of ardent spirits
was prevented, and a great deal of mischief and vice




66         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
stopped. The only license for its sale (which government deemed itself under the humiliating obligation to
grant in consideration of the forced French treaty) was
bid off at auction to a temperance man, with the tacit
understanding that he should not be a loser, for the sum
of l1500. In a riot just before, and a fight of tlhe seamen with the native constables, the rioters for a time
held the town, and it was found absolutely necessary
for the safety of life and limb, and to preclude similar
or worse scenes of riot and noise, that the one great
mischief-breeder should be bound and rendered impotent. This port and Hilo are now probably the only
two places in all the Pacific Ocean frequented by
ships, where a sailor cannot get drunk. MIay the honorable difference never be lost through any fault of
theirs!
It is highly amusing to a stranger to go out into the
south part of this town, some day when the sea is rolling in heavily over the reef, and to observe there the evolutions and rapid career of a company of surf-players.
The sport is so attractive and full of wild excitement
to Hawaiians, and withal so healthful, that I cannot
but hope it will be many years before civilization shall
look it out of countenance, or make it disreputable to
indulge in this manly, though it be dangerous, exercise.
Many a man from abroad who has witnessed this
exhilarating play, has no doubt inly wished that he
were free and able to share in it himself. For my




DIVERSIONS WITH THE SURF-BOARD.      67
part, I should like nothing better, if I could do it, than
to get balanced on a board just before a great rushing
wave, and so be hurried in half or quarter of a mile
landward with the speed of a race-horse, all the time
enveloped in foam and spray, but without letting the
roller break and tumble over my head.
In this consists the strength of muscle and sleight-ofhand, to keep the head and shoulders just ahead and
clear of the great crested wall that is every moment
impending over one, and threatening to bury the bold
surf-rider in its watery ruin. The natives do this with
admirable intrepidity and skill, riding in, as it were,
upon the neck and mane of their filrious charger;
and when you look to see them, their swift race
run, dashed upon the rocks or sand, behold, they
have slipped under the belly of the wave they rode,
and are away outside, waiting for a cruise upon another.
Both men and women, girls and boys, have their
times for this diversion.  Even the huge Premier
(Auhea) has been known to commit her bulky person
to a surf-board; and the chiefs generally, when- they
visit Lahaina, take a turn or two at this invigorating
sport with billows and board. For a more accurate
idea of it than can be conveyed by any description,
the reader is referred to the engraving.
I have no doubt it would run away with dyspepsia
from many a bather at Rockaway or Easthampton, if
they would learn, and dare to use a surf-board on those
great Atlantic rollers, as the Hawaiians do on the




68         LIFE IN THIE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
waves of the Pacific.  But there is wanting on the
Atlantic sea-board that delicious, bland temperature
of the water, which  within  the tropics, while it
makes sea-bathing equally a tonic, renders it always
safe.
Tile missionaries at these Islands, and foreigners
generally, are greatly at fault in that they do not avail
thelmselves more of this easy and unequalled means of
retaining health, or of restoring it when enfeebled.
Bathing in fresh water, in a close bath-house, is not to
be compared to it as an invigorating and remedial
agent; and it is unwise, not to say criminal, in such a
climate, to neglect so natural a way of preserving
health, as washing and swimming in the sea. In those
who live close to the water, and on the leeward side
of the Islands, it is the more inexcusable, for it could
be enjoyed without exposure in the dewless evenings;
or in some places, a small house might be built on
stone abutments over the water, and facilities so contrived that both sexes could enjoy this great luxury of
a life within the tropics.
But we come back to Lahaina, to speak of a charming grove of young cocoanut-trees in the northwestern
part of the town, planted by the excellent chief HIoapili, or Hioapiliwahine. They are not the tall, lank,
ghostly-looking things which the full-grown tree is, that
becomes at these Islands, from the places in which you
most often see it, a synonym of desolation and sterility,
but a luxuriant, youthful growth, more beautiful than








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INDIGNITIES OFFERED TO TREES.       69
any thing in the form of woods that I have seen since
leaving America.
Six or seven years ago there was a fine grove of large
green Konu-trees in the opposite part of the town, near
where the King lives, covering an acre and a half or
two acres, and so ancient and shady as to afford ample
covering for all the canoes in Lahaina, and all the people too. But before any one knew it, and not until it
was too late to remonstrate against such a piece of savageism, the King took a freak to have them all cut
down to make into bowls, and Spittoons, and poundingboards for kaclo. Could the outraged trees have wept
like the sacred grove in the iEnead, they would have
dropped tears of blood at the indignity.
So, on the island of Molokai, there was a fine forest
of Kamani-trees, the only ones at the Islands. It is a
tree of slow growth, and of great value for its beautiful wood. But the chiefs a few years ago had them all
mercilessly cut down, without any care to propagate
young ones, happening to want the timber to repair
some vessels. It was a fair specimen of ordinary barbarism: how unlike the wisdom of Kamehameha the
Great, who, when birds were caught for him to pluck
certain feathers for his leis and kahilits, would not let
them be killed, but set loose again, to give feathers, he
said, to his sons. And when they cut young sticks of
sandal-wood, lie remonstrated with them, and said,  Is
it, indeed, that you do not know my sons? To them
the young sandal-wood belongs."
A sure sign of thrift and civilization, which I have




'70       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
seen a very few times in Hawaiians, is the planting of
trees. Ask themn why they don't do it more in a land
where shade is such a blessing, and they will answer,
it will do them no good; they would never enjoy them;
it is a neea  lpUwale, for them. But such improvidence
is not at all to be wondered at, when we consider the
uncertain tenure upon which they have hitherto held
their lands. Any improvements made by a common
man would have been only a premium to covetousness
and injustice on the part of his chief; and would be
likely to insure the alienation of property whose enhanced value made it a Naboth's vineyard to some
Hawaiian Ahab.
The planting of trees anywhere indicates the possession of a freehold, and the beginning of a prosperous
and sound state, in which the rights of property are
respected, and justice is rendered between man and
man.  It is what Washington Irving, speaking of the
English fondness for trees, calls "the heroic line of
husbandry, worthy of liberal, free-born, and aspiring
men. IHe who plants an oak looks forward to future
ages, and plants for posterity. lie cannot expect to sit
in its shade, nor enjoy its shelter; but he exults in the
idea that the acorn he has buried in the earth shall grow
up into a lofty pile, and shall keep on flourishing, and
increasing, and benefiting mankind, long after he shall
have ceased to tread his paternal hills."
The laws framed within three or four years nominally
secure the right of property to Hawaiians; but in their
administration justice was far from being even, espe



CHARACTER OF TIHE FUTURE RACE.      71
cially on the Island of Hawaii, under the management
of Governor Adams, who was averse to quitting the
ancient regime, or waiving any of the privileges of the
chiefs. But liberty and law are everywhere gaining
force, and a revolution is in progress which will insure
good government and equal rights, if the people only
survive to enjoy them. The philanthropist and Christian cannot help ardently desiring it, and deprecating
as most melancholy the decay of the race, just as it
might be beginning to enjoy the liberty and all the benign ameliorations of the Gospel.
But if, in the all-wise providence of God, the event
be contrary to what we naturally desire, they who
have been laboring sincerely to save the nation will
not lose their reward. They are laying the foundations
for many generations, and the good of their labors
shall redound for ages. Their reward is with henm,
and their w:ork before thesm. The church they have
planted shall continue so long cas the sun and moon endure, throughouet all generations. Thie lord shall have
here a seed to serve him to the end of time.
And though the nation's blood run out, and there be
left a mongrel race of self-glorifying Anglo-Americans
and other foreigners, that like the Jews of Nehemiah's
day, "married wives of Ashdod, of Ammon, and of
M3,oab, and their children spake half in the speech of
A Shdod,' yet it. shall be not less a people to serve God,
to reap the benefit of, and to be moulded by, thie institutions of the Gospel planted now. Mieanwhile, although
the Hawaiians melt away, and it be sad to see a nation




72          LIFE, IN THE SANDWICHI ISLANDS.
dying out, we will take the consolation given by the
chorus in M1ilton's Samson AgonistesAll is best, though we oft doubt,
What the unsearchable dispose
Of highest wisdom brings about,
Anad ever best found in its close.
Lahaina is one of those places which you like much
better as you approach or recede from it, than when
you are actually in it.  A  little way off it seems
sweetly embosomed in bread-fruit trees, and all fresh
and lovely with sunshine and verdure, calmly inclosed
seaward within a fence of foam, made by the sea breaking upon the coral reef. Ride over the rollers in a
whale-boat or native canoe, get to the sun-burnt, dusty
land, walk up a few rods, perhaps with white pantaloons, to the mission-houses, and make acquaintance on
the way to your heart's content with Lahaina dust and
caloric, and you will probably by that time be saying
to yourself-'Twas distance lent enchantment to the view.
However, dirt, fleas, mosquitoes, and heat to the
contrary notwithstanding, Lahaina has so salubrious
and dry a climate, and advantages for healthful seabathing all the year round, that one who is any thing
of an invalid likes to be there, or, what is better, two
miles above, at the seminary of Lahainaluna.  It is
said that the greatest observed elevation of the mercurv here in Fahrenheit's thermometer, for ten years,
was 86 deg.; the lowest, 54 deg. The wind is the alter



HOW TO MEET A STORM OF DUST.          73
nating land and sea breeze. A steep mountainous ridge
in the rear entirely breaks off the trades, and, receiving
all their rain, carries it distilled below in a fertilizing
stream that irrigates all the valley and vega of Lahaina,
and is spent before it reaches the sea.
Two or three times in a year the trades whirl over
the mountain, and then woe to the man's eyes that are
so luckless as to be found in it.  From hill and plain
there are caught up great, suffocating volumes of red
dust, that envelop all the town, and even roll off to
ships in the roadstead, and redden the sea. Closed
doors and windows are as mere lattice-work for it. It
traverses stone walls and ct0obes, human lungs and ears,
and I know not but livers, and permeates every thing.
If a man's eyes only escape being filled and getting the
ophthalmia, he is well off.  But the blow over, all is
well again. The sea or the translucent Lahainaluna
water is there to wash in, and, merrily making your ablutions within and without, you'll singCold water for me, cold water for me!
But wine for the tremulous debauchee!
The mission-house here, being the first built, and
(until his embassy abroad) occupied by Mr. Richards,
and the one now occupied by Mr. Baldwin, are situated
in the very busiest and dirtiest part of the town. Probably it was a retired spot, surrounded by kalo patches,
when selected and given by Keopuolani, in 1824. But
the concourse of business and ships have so increased
both the population and noise, that the place has be4




17A4__      LIFE IN THlE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
come a most undesirable one for residence, and especially for rearing children. Juvenal's caution can hardly be kept there:
Nil dictu'fcedum, visu que hkec iimina tangat
Intra qume puer estMaxilma debetur puero reverentia.*
Somewhat more than a quarter of a mile to the southeast, within a verdant and shaded inclosure, is the
large galleried Stone Church and burying-ground. It
is the first stone meeting-house built at the Islands, and
does credit to its architect, the Rev. Mr. Richards.
When he found its steeple to have settled away a little
from the main body of the house, so as to threaten a
fall, he cleverly made it fast by iron clamps and chains.
It will accommodate two thousand people.
The Gospel preached there has been sometimes quick
and powerful, and full of edification and life to good
old chiefs and common kanakas.  The veteran Hoapili,
when unable to sit up but a few minutes, had himself
carried there only ten days before his death in 1840, to
be once more blessed by the ordinances of God's house.
No serious blot, say the missionaries, is known to have
attached to the Christian character of this chief while
living, and now that he is gone, his memory is sweet.
Those who saw and conversed with him while he was
waiting the summons of death, were much affected with
* Let nothing foul to eye or ear be ever seen or heard about those
doors which inclose your boy. To eager and imitating childhood we
owe a scrupulous reverence and care.




DEATH AND BURIAL 1OF HOAPILI.       75
his deportment. He was wakeful and deeply interested
in the prospect of the change that awaited him, and he
longed to depart and be with Christ.
" He seemed to be emptied of self, to be lowly in his
own eyes, and to cast himself with much confidence on
Christ. The word of God and prayer were his delight,
and from these he sought solace till he was insensible
to every thing earthly.  His last interview with the
king was said to have been tender and affecting in the
extreme. After conversing with him in a dignified
manner for a time, alluding to his own dependence,
and beseeching the king to abandon his sins, and become a good man, he became much affected, laid his
head on the lap of the king, and burst into a flood
of tears. As he lay dying, he gave a charge concerning his bones, strictly forbidding wailing on the occasion of his death, and desiring that his grave might
be an humble one near the sleeping-place of Mr.
2McDonald, a departed missionary."
There they lie in the burying-ground, hard by together, the missionary teacher and the converted heathen chief, with a little group of baptized missionaries'
children, whom Christ has taken from the care of parents to be safe with himself.
" God their Redeemer lives,
And ever from the skies
Looks down and watches all their dust,
Till he shall bid it rise."
The good old chief then will come forth in his new
attire, with the vigor of immortal youth, wondering at




'76           LIFE IN THI SANDWICH ISLANDS.
the grace of a Saviour to a dark-minded savage; and,
methinks, it will be with no common energy that he
will lead a file of ransomed Hawaiians in that blest
song, "Worthy is the Lamb:"
Loud as from numbers without number,
Sweet as from blest voices uttering joy!
How beautiful is that poem by Longfellow called
God's-Acre, which I can never enter a Christian burying-ground without calling to mind!
I LIKE that ancient Saxon phrase, which calls
The burial-ground God's-Acre! It is just;
It consecrates each grave within its walls,
And breathes a benison o'er the sleeping dust.
God's-Acre! Yes, that blessed name imparts
Comfort to those who in the grave have sown
The seed that they had garnered in their hearts,
Their bread of life, alas! no more their own.
Into its furrows shall we all be cast,
In the sure faith that we shall rise again
At the great harvest, when the archangel's blast
Shall winnow, like a fan, the chaff and grain.
Then shall the good stand in immortal bloom,
In the fair gardens of that second birth;
And each bright blossom mingle its perfume
With that of flowers which never bloomed on earth.
With thy rude ploughshare, Death, turn up the sod,
And spread the furrow for the seed we sow:
This is the field and Acre of our God;
This is the place where human harvests grow!
It was of this remarkable Hawaiian chief, now peacefully sleeping in God's-Acre at Lahaina, that a story is
told which well illustrates his native strength of mind.




HIS WAY OF PROVING THE EARTH ROUND.    77
Upon the publication by the missionaries of a little
treatise on the true principles of geography and astronomy, surprise and doubt were expressed by some, and
they disputed before Hoapili about the figure of the
earth. " Stop," said the old chief; " do not be so quick
with your objections to the foreign theory. Let us look
at it. This is what I have always seen. When I have
been far out at sea on fishing excursions, I at first lost
sight of the beach, then of the houses and trees, then of
the hills, and last of the high mountains. So when I
returned, the first objects which I saw were the high
mountains, then the hills, then the trees and houses,
and, last of all, the beach. I think, therefore, that these
foreigners are right, and that the earth is round."
The influence of Hoapili and Hoapiliwahine his wife
was valuable and excellent many ways. Among other
things, they taught the people at Lahaina to be liberal
to their ministers, and it should be said to their praise,
that they are more than usually attentive at this station
in bringing poultry, fruits, vegetables, dried fish, &c., as
marks of their aloha (love) both to Christ and their worthy pastor. This liberal spirit can be easily encouraged
and turned to good account, so as entirely to support
among them the institutions of the Gospel.
The Church at this station, by the annual report for
1849, numbers 637 members-ordinary attendance on
the Sabbath at the meeting-house, twelve or thirteen
hundred. Some of them are, for Hawaiians, men of considerable substance; are owners of horses and cattle,
make molasses from the sugar-cane, have lands on which




'78        LIFE LN THE SA.NI)WICH ISLANDS.
they raise potatoes for ships, besides kalo-patches that
furnish their own food, and are officers of government.
Almost the same may be said of their pecuniary ability at Honolulu, and particulars might be given of the
ways in which Hawaiians at these ports can now get
money, and of the ease with which much of it can be
applied to support the preachers of the Gospel. They
make out a strong case why the missionaries at these
places, the two central stations first taken, and from
which there is constantly emanating a powerful influence throughout the entire group, should have been
supported by the people for two or three years past;
and the late action of the American Board in 1849, is
altogether wise and feasible, that proposes to the Sandwich Islands Mission to become independent of the
home treasury, and to throw itself upon the people for
support.
The readiness of the missionaries to accede to this
proposition and to make the experiment of self-support,
trusting under God to the generosity of the people, is
worthy of all praise, as it is in keeping with the character they have won before all the world for ability, zeal,
and devotion. The general success of this experiment
can hardly be doubted, though it may fail at some particular stations for reasons purely local.
We do not think the objection valid, that you cannot
* The whole amount of contributions for all benevolent and religious
purposes, in the two Native Churches of Honolulu for the year 1850,
is $1733.92.




HOW MISSIONARIES SHOULD BE SUPPORTED.    79
expect the people to give seven or eight times as much
to their teacher as it takes to support one of their own
families.  Hawaiians know the wants of foreigners are
more than theirs, are glad to have it so, and would be
unwilling that their teachers should live like themselves. And as to any natural scruples at receiving
from people so poor, and that live so miserably destitute of the comforts of civilized life, we think they had
better be set over against the contributions of many at
home, who give out of the abundance of their joy and
their deep poverty, by rigid economy, and the voluntary
deprivation of luxuries which are missed far more than
the poor Hawaiians' hapaca, or hapaQas, or dollar
would be, if given to his minister.
Ships put in circulation here a good deal of money,
spent by sailors, and in lieu of fresh supplies. Many of
the reals, and half-dollars, and dollars so distributed,
fall into the hands of common church members, who
being supplied, for the most part, otherwise with food,
and having as yet few artificial wants, might as well as
not bestow many of them upon their teacher.
In this connection, we cannot help saying, that we
think it would be far better for American missionaries
everywhere to be allowed to hold property, and honorably help themselves, and to be in every respect upon
the same footing as ministers at home; and that they
should be enjoined to urge the people to whom they
preach to contribute all in their power for their support.
We think there would in this way be more economy,
and more manliness and proper independence both in




80        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
the missionary ministers and their families, and in the
churches. The dangers of undue acquisitiveness, neglect of missionary work, and worldly-mindedness might
be guarded against. Missions generally, certainly those
that are so far advanced as the Sandwich Islands Mlission, would thus cost the Board less, and do the people
more good, by stimulating them early to maintain their
own religious institutions. This always leaning upon
America, David Malo says, is not good. If America
should give way, we should break our backs. We had
better learn early to stand alone.
It is upon the Hawaiian democracy mainly that the
support of the Church at these Islands must henceforth
depend; for with the decease of Hoapili and Kapiolani
the race of godly chiefs seems to have become extinct.
Few are surviving that can boast of chiefs' blood. Hoapili died without issue. The governor of Hawaii dies
childless. The king and the premier (Auhea) have no
offspring; nor is there a high-chief living that has a lineal heir. Most of the chief boys and girls in school at
Honolulu are half-breeds, or adopted heirs, and the children of the former premier Kinau.
It is a remarkable fact, and would seem to argue
somewhat of Providence and destiny, that so large a
body of rulers by birthright should so soon give out.
Their rapid extinction is even more manifest and significant than that of the people. Perhaps in the mysterious counsels of the Most High, their days are numbered, and the end of their existence as a nation is
near. If it prove to be so, it will remain to be re



VISIONS OF THE FUTURE MILLENNIUM.                81
marked how the date of their depopulation and decay, like
that of all the other islanders of the Pacific, and the tribes
of North and South America, synchronizes with their
discovery and the offer made them of the Gospel.
Through their acceptance of the latter, although they
now become extinct, the prophecy will be made good,
that in h~im  (Ch1rist) shall all nations of the earth be
blessed.  Redeemed unto God out of every kindred, and,
tongue, and people, and tribe, and nation, there shall
be  some  to  sing, " Thou, Lord, art worthy."   With
thanks and everlasting joy the ransomed Hawaiian, the
Indian, the Hottentot, the South Sea Islander, the
" natives of Ormus and of Ind," shall come up to the
general assembly and church of the first-born.
From every isle, from every clime they come,
To see thy beauty and to share thy joy,
0 Zion i an assembly such as earth
Saw never, such as heaven stoops down to see!
Bright as a sun the sacred city shines:
All kingdoms and all princes of the earth
Flock to that light; the glory of all lands
Flows into her; unbounded is her joy,
And endless her increase. Thy rams are there,
Nebaioth, and the flocks of Kedar there:
The looms of Ormus and the mines of Ind,
And Saba's spicy groves pay tribute there.
Praise is in all her gates; upon her walls,
And in her streets, and in her spacious courts,
Is heard salvation. Eastern Java there
Kneels with the native of the farthest West;
And Ethiopia spreads abroad the hand,
And worships. Her report has travelled forth
Into all lands. Thus heavenward all things tend.
COwPER.




82              LIFE  IN  TIE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.
CHAPTER IV.
THE FOOTSTEPS OF BEAUTY  TRACED  BY  A  TRAVELLER  IN
NATURE, LANGUAGE, AND  RELIGION.
THERE'S beauty all around our paths, if but our watchful eyes
Can trace it'midst familiar things, and through their lowly guise.
Yes! beauty dwells in all our paths-but sorrow too is there:
How oft some cloud within us dims the bright, still summer air!
But know that by the lights and clouds through which our pathway lies,
By the beauty and the grief alike we are training for the skies.
MRS. HEMANS.
A canoe takes us to Wailuku —Elements of the beautiful at home and abroad-Morning on the mountain-Effect of natural scenery upon childhood —Curious Hawaiian
etymologies-A catalogue of queer appellatives —The peculiar genius and idioms of
the Hawaiian tongue-Words to be domesticated into English-Conversational uses
of the native-Commendable solicitude of Hawaiians for the purity of their language —Classical discussion at an assembly of teachers-Fear of barbarous innovations from abroad-A book of fables suggested-Their uses illustrated-Isaac Taylor
on the employment of the Esopian vehicle of instrluction-Notices of the Wailuku
church and pastor-Resolutions for the independent support of the ministryPraiseworthy instance of Hawaiian gratitude-Mr. Green's experiment at Makawao
-Beneficial results-Reasonings of natives-Union of faith and works —Affecting
tests of Christianity-Resolves of pastors preparatory to independency-Initiatory
steps —Remarkable consummation in the jubilee year of the nineteenth century.
Six  hours' sail by canoe  along  the  coast of Maui,
and a walk of eight miles, have brought us to Wailuku,
the  windward  station  of this  island, where  constitu
tions debilitated by the long-continued heat and confinement of a leeward residence, find repair and
health  from  the bracing  trades  and  exercise on




GRAZING-GROUNDS BETWEEN THE MOUNTAINS.   83
horseback, for which latter there are more facilities in roads and horses than at any station yet
visited.
The mission-houses are situated on a gently sloping
plain, about half a mile from the base of an abrupt
mountainous ridge, that rises in some of its peaks to
the height of six or seven thousand feet. The tract is
watered by a side canal from a stream that is abundantly supplied by mountains,
On whose rugged breast
The laboring clouds do often rest.
The plain looks towards the east, and slopes downward to the sea on both sides, at the north and south,
being traversed by a range of sand-hills that separate
East and West Maui. These were once two islands,
and are now divided only by the sand and a low isthmus, daily enlarging, which, together with the tracts
on each side, furnish pasturage for large herds of cat-tle, horses, and goats.
There is beauty here, material and moral, human
and divine, on the blue sea always in sight, and on
the green or sun-dried land. There is beauty within
the mission-houses, and beauty abroad in the daily
paths of usefulness trodden assiduously, by the laborious men and women to whom Providence has here
assigned a sphere of duty, in which they cheerfully
revolve. There are trials, and- sorrows, and crosses,
too, here, as always in the lot of man, which true
piety, however, is converting daily into elements of




84        LIFE rI THm  SANDWICH ISLANDS.
beauty. Hence it is that we have taken the motto
of this Chapter from that beautiful composition of
England's Poetess, " Our Daily Paths," written in
The cheerful faith that all which we behold
Is full of blessings.
I have said there is beauty abroad; for as you look
off to the east, towering up to heaven in calm majesty,
there is the beautiful long mountain of lHale-a-KIa-La,
or The House of the Sun. From its top, ten thousand
feet above the rest of the world, the bright eye of day
opens every morning with a golden glory, and sends
his level beams across to the opposite range on West
Maui, and aslant down the mountain's fire-worn sides,
showing the cones and chasms of old volcanoes.
Sometimes a snow-drift lies on its summit in the
morning. Always it is there, the same great object
in its quiet beauty, which from morning to morning it
does one good to behold.
To rise up a little before the sun, and look out upon
the azure face of that calm mountain, beautiful in its
distance and repose, and lofty and vast as the Almighty made it, can hardly fail of filling a heart with
joy that is at peace with God.
By half past nine or ten, clouds have drifted on to
its bosom, and there they are all day long, the blue
crown of the mountain alone visible above them,
until nightfall, when they generally vanish or sail
away, and leave it open to the beams of the moon and
stars.




POWER OF NATURAL SCENERY IN YOUTH.              85
The salutary moral influence of opening one's eyes
every morning upon such a scene, though it may be
imperceptible at the time, is very great. It is well
for a family of children that they may drink it in and
have joy in it, although they do not know why; and
in beholding all the beautiful things of nature, which
they never stop, in their innocent delight, to call beautiful, or once think what it is that is making them so
happy.
Yet all the while, if their training within doors be
only right, by such joyous intercourse with nature in
a happy childhood, they are laying a broad foundation
of permanent after peace.  Even as we are instructed
in the "Excursion,"
Thus deeply drinking in the soul of things,
We shall be wise perforce; and while inspired
By Truth, and conscious that the will is free,
Unswerving we shall move, as if impelled
By strict necessity along the path
Of order and of good. Whate'er we see,
Whate'er we feel, by agency direct
Or indirect, shall tend to feed and nurse
Our faculties, shall fix in calmer seats
Of moral strength, and raise to loftier heights
Of love divine, our intellectual soul.
There are in this region four streams in succession
from the different gorges of the mountain, significantly named, it is thought, from the events of battles
which have transpired upon them.   WTaikapu —The
water where the conch was blown, and the engagement began.   Waieku-The water where the com



86-    LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
batants smnoked ewith dust and perspiration.  WCTilukui —The water of destruction, where the battle
began to be fierce and fatal.  Waihee-The water
of total rout and defeat, where the army melted
away.
The Hawaiians were particularly fond of annexing
a wai, (water,) if possible, in the names of places. It
is like the Eastern word wadi, (water,) that occurs so
often in the namnes of places in Arabia, as Wadi iIousa,
Wadi Seder, &c. Undoubtedly it is the same word,
with the mere ellipsis, for euphony's sake, of the consonant d.
And it might be remarked, in passing, that not a
few of such verbal analogies go far towards proving
the original identity of the languages of Polynesia
and the East. Almost all valleys in lHawaii-nei, and
places that have the precious boon of water, are called wai with some descriptive epithet, as Wcaiohinuz,
sparkling water; Waialua, two waters, or double water; Kawaihae, broken waters, &c.
In giving names to each other, and to their children,
Hawaiians were often not a little whimsical and droll.
The most trifling circumstance or accident fixed their
nomenclature; and names were as likely to be taken
from  things and qualities disgusting and vile, as
from the opposite, and to be borne without any disgrace.
You might know that a people must have been vile
from the vile names they assume and wear without
shame-names that one would be unwilling to trans



CURIOUTS HAWAIIAN ETYMOLOGOES.     8$
late. All evil appetites and qualities, bodily organs
and deformities, mischievous acts and vices, were
turned into names. Thus there are persons namled
Moekolohe, (adultery;) Kekuko, (lust;) Kahahu, (anger;) Haaheo, (pride;) Kalili, (jealousy;) Kaino, (bad;)
Aihue, (thief;) Wahahe, (liar;) Pelapela, (filth;) Molowa, (lazy;) Pupule, (crazy;) Puhi-baka, (tobaccosmoker;) Inurama, (rum-drinker,) &c.
It is not a little amusing sometimes, though it be
disgusting at others, to trace out their etymologies.
When the chief woman, Kapiolani, at Kealakekua,
was sick, and had submitted to a surgical operation,
a child of a common man happening to be born about
that time, was called Four-Inches-Long, in order to
commemorate the length of the wound.
So, not to mention a great variety of natural objects
from which they derived names, there are some men
noways deformed, called Pupuka, (crooked;) Makaino, (ugly-face;) Kamakalepo, (dirty-face;) Kealiiopunui, (big-bellied-chief;) Blind-of-one-eye, Lame-ofone-leg, &c.
The names of the Diabolonians and Men of ManSoul in Bunyan's Holy War, or of the soldiers of
Cromwell's army, are not more whimsical and odd
than are to be found often in Hawaii-nei. Messrs.
Jolly, Gripe, Griggish, Rake-all, and their excellencies, Mr. Carnal-sense, Live-by-feeling, Love-lust, IHategood, Mr. Facing-both-ways, Sergeant Bind-their-kingsin-chains, Captain Hew-Agag-in-pieces-before-the-Lord,
and others, compare very well with the queer appella



88        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
tions by which Hawaiians often call each other and
foreigners.
Missionaries were for a long time called the Ai;-oe-oe,
(long-necks,) because, when the Hawaiians first saw
the missionary wives with bonnets, making them to
appear as if long-necked, they cried out, Ai-oe-oe.
Chiefs among them went by many names, all expressive of something; and a new name was frequently
assumed after any exploit or event of their lives, to
keep it in memory, as the Romans honored their successful generals with appellations derived from the
cities or countries which they had conquered; as, Caius
IMiarcius Coriolanus, Scipio Africanus, Cato Uticensis,
&c. The names of the present King, Kaui-ke-ao-uli,
and of the Premier, Ke-kau-luohe, mean Hangingupon-the-blue-sky, and Bamboo-grove.
The Hawaiian language, that admits so readily of
these compounds, is simple in its structure, and very
easy and uniform both in its orthography and pronunciation. Aside from the facile genius of the tongue,
this is owing to the good sense and judgment of the
missionaries who first reduced it to writing. They admitted no silent letters, and adopted the uniform
Spanish designation of the vowel-sounds. Hence, as
in that beautiful language, a, e, i, o, and u, always
have each but one, and its own sound, varied only
by quantity: so that, unlike what is found in the
English and French, the language is spelt and pronounced just as it is written, and vice versa. Any
one that has a knowledge of the Spanish at once




PECULIAR HAWAIIAN IDIOMS.          89
slides into the pronunciation of the Hawaiian vowels.
The variety of only twelve letters expresses every
Hawaiian sound, by reason of which, and the constant
repetition of vowel terminations, the language to foreigners sounds monotonous. Also, no word ever ends
in a consonant, nor can two consonant svunds come together, but a vowel is always interposed. Thus, an
Hawaiian, in writing or pronouncing Boston, London, Bedford, will say Bosetonac, Lwonecdonca, Bedefoda.
Some of the idioms are very peculiar and curious.
There is no auxiliary verb to be, nor any word to express the abstract idea of being or existence. Good
idiomatic Hawaiian is, therefore, in short sentences, or
clauses thereof, and the same word may be a noun or
a verb, according to the sense to be expressed, without
change. This, and the destitution of general terms,
while specific ones are numerous, constitutes a state of
the language favorable to the art of poetry.
There are no variations in nouns for case, number,
or person; but the mood and tenses of verbs are pretty
clearly distinguished by simple prefixes and suffixes.
The mode of conjugating verbs, the existence of a causative form, and the derivation of words from roots of
two syllables, are thought to indicate a resemblance
and cognate origin with the Hebrew and other Oriental tongues.
The use of the particle no in the way of affirmation
or affirmative emphasis, like yes indeed, no indeed, is




91)       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
very peculiar, as being so the reverse of all the languages of Europe, where it is negative. Tell an Hawaiian to stop or leave off any thing he is doing, as
ua oki, ta okipela, and he answers, I stop indeed, oki
au no, or stop no!
Ask a man a question to which he does not know or
wish to give the answer —as, What did you do it for?and the reply commonly heard will be, He aha la!
what indeed! Ask a native about the climate of a
place-as, whether it is rainy or not-and he will
think he gives you a very wise answer, though it is a
most amusing and unsatisfactory one to the asker:.noa ta, na no, (If or when it rains, it rains;) Inc aole,
aole no, (If not, no indeed;) Inac ua pinepine, p2i;nepine
no, (If it rain often, often indeed it rains;) A i hikiM   i
ka manawa ua, ca no, (And when the rain-time has
come, there is rain indeed!)
So, when you ask a native, sometimes, where he is
going, he will answer you very respectfully, E hele au
makahi E hele ai, I am going where I'm  going, or
what amounts to the English expression, without any
of its impudence, I am following my nose! Ask a
man whom you are employing what shall be done in
any exigency, and he generally answers, Eia no ia oe,
(That's with you, that's for you to say.)
There is one Hawaiian woird which, for its singular convenience and expressiveness, I would be
glad to get domesticated into English, and that is
Pilikia. They use it to signify any strait, or difficulty, or perplexity a man is brought into, by acci



HAWAIIAN WORDS WORTHY OF ADOPTION.    91
dent, or sickness, or the mismanagement or ill conduct of others.
In the speech of the King at the forced cession of
the Islands to Paulet, it occurs very aptly. "Hear
ye! I make known to you that I am in perplexity
(pilicia) by reason of difficulties into which I have
been brought without cause; therefore I have given
away the life of our land. Hear ye! But my will
over you, my people, and your privileges, will continue, for I have hope that the life of the land will be
restored when my conduct is justified."
When one becomes familiarized with this term, there
is no word that call be thought of half so expressive to
denote one's extremity and strait; and hence you will
hear it used in conversation by missionaries in the
midst of their English, as if it were legalized old Saxon. The same is true of the word ackamai, expert, skilful, ready at any thing.
The compound word for hope is beautifully expressive: it is manaolana, or' the swirnmin9g thought —faith
floating and keeping its head aloft, above water, when
all the waves and billows are going over one-a strikingly beautiful definition of hope, worthy to be set
down along with the answer which a deaf and dumb
person wrote with his pencil, in reply to the question,
What was his idea of forgiveness? " It is the odor
which flowers yield when trampled on."
At a convocation of teachers held at this place, to
consider their disabilities, and petition government for




92        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
a redress of grievances, I have been highly pleased
with the solicitude which some of them have manifested to maintain the purity of their Hawaiian tongue.
They were over ninety in all, a respectable, orderly
body, having their President and Secretaries, and disposing of all questions in due form and order.
One of the subjects first discussed was the name by
which they should call their meeting, as it was a new
thing under the sun for Hawaiians. It was proposed
to adopt, so far as they could, the English word
Society, and call the convention The Teachers' Society,
Sokieke o na Rcrnu.
To this some of them resolutely objected, just as we
may imagine Cicero or Pericles would to an unauthorized innovation upon the classic Latin or Greek, that
their lgac.uag/e was getting barbarous; that foreigners
were corruzpting and rutnning away with it; and that,
if they did not take care, it would soon become a mongrel, and they should not know their own tongue.
At length, with the help of their minister, they hit
upon a vernacular compound that met the case, and
they called the assembly Ahtahui, or The United Company.
I cannot but venture to suggest here, that a well-selected book of the best fables extant would be a great
boon to the Hawaiian Nation in the present stage of its
progress. It could not but interest and quicken the
minds both of youth and adults; and a Reading Book
might be made of them of singular utility and attractivenless, that would constitute a mine of wealth. Ha



A BOOK OF FABLES SUGGESTED.          93
waiians are now familiar with almost all the animals
that afford subjects of fable-the ass, the dog, the horse,
goat, sheep, cattle, and swine; besides cats, rats, and
mice, (those prolific fable-breeders,) domestic fowls, and
birds.
It is remarked by Isaac Taylor, in his admirable
work entitled "Home Education," that the distinctive
characteristics of animals bear such an analogy to the
varieties of human character, as has in all ages suggested the mythic form of instruction, and such as imparts to fable a degree of fixedness, or, one might say,
authenticity, which hardly admits of its being disturbed.
The relative dispositions and habits of the bee and
the wasp, the dog, the wolf, and the fox, and the moral
picturesqueness of temper which we attribute to the
ass, the magpie, the parrot, the viper, the owl, the
jackal, the ape, are such as force themselves upon our
notice as samples of humanity in caricature.
The first stirring of intellectuality in a people, as they
emerge from barbarism, shows itself by catching at
these same analogies; and what is true of a nation in
its infancy, is true of childhood itself; for the mind no
sooner opens than it seizes upon these very resemblances, and nourishes itself with them.
" The usage of employing the Esopian fable in the
conveyance of language, must be considered as well
adapted for securing several ends; inasmuch as, while
it affords a sparkling entertainment, it brings together
almost exclusively the descriptive portion of language,




94         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
an early familiarity with which is in itself highly important."
Backed by such authority, I cannot but commend
the preparation of a collection of fables like that here
indicated, to the hard-working Professors of Lahainaluna and Wailuku, and to the literature-founders of
newly civilized nations generally. It would be giving
to the people a grant of ideas, resources for the imagination, and a fund of mental activity, not soon to be
exhausted; and it would materially aid the hitherto
necessarily slow process of intellectualizing and Christianizing barbarous tribes.
We find the church at Wailuku to include eleven
hundred and thirty-four members, under the pastoral
care of Rev. E. W. Clark. The riding abroad necessary
in performing the duties of a pastor, and change of climate, have proved partially restorative to his health,
which had been much impaired by his severe sedentary
labors in the Mission Seminary at Lahainaluna. Although far from being robust and strong, he is able
now to execute the round of a missionary's work, in
which, like all other business, it is happily true in
practice,
" That use doth breed a habit in a man,"
and render it comparatively easy.
His church, self-moved, has just taken a stand, and
adopted a series of resolutions for the independent support of the Gospel ministry among them, that must be




SPONTANEOUS RESOLVES OF A NATIVE CHURCH.   95
highly agreeable to the feelings of a Pastor, as indicating a manly mind and Christian spirit on the part of
the people.
The movement augurs well. It is an omen of good
that may justly encourage the American Board and its
patron churches. It has led the way to the independent support of the Gospel ministry at the Hawaiian
Islands. The following is a translated copy, furnished
me by the Pastor, of resolutions adopted at a full meeting of the church called on the previous sacramental
Sabbath:
RESOLUTIONS adopted by the church included in the territory
from Waihee to Kahikinui:
I. That we decline the support received by Mr. Clark from the
Missionary Society of America, and that this church of Wailuku
unite together to supply all his wants in this thing and that thing,
which he needs for his support.
II. That his support from America be sent to those places where
the name of the Saviour has not been heard.
III. That certain persons be appointed to stir up the people
to this work, and that the collections be made four times in a
year.
IV. That collectors be appointed in different parts of the district, whose duty it shall be to take care of the property contributed
by the church.
V. That the contributions at the monthly concert, and contributions fbr other definite objects, be kept distinct from what is contributed for the support of the pastor.
VI. That the names of all who assent to this proposition be attached to this engagement entered into by this church, and that it
be the duty of the collectors to take down the names.
VII. In this manner shall each one give according to his abill




96          LIFE IN THE SANDWICI-I ISLANDS.
ity-some one dollar, some fifty cents, some twenty-five cents,
some twelve and a half cents, some six cents-according as
each one receives, from the highest to the lowest, so shall he,
give.
VIII. To carry out these resolutions is the great thing; for it is
an important work, and a work by which both our country and ourselves will be benefited.
IX. That this church engage, if they are out on a journey on
Saturday, that they will not travel on the Sabbath, but remain and
keep the Lord's day.
It is natural ti mention in the same connection the
recent instance of a man (not a church member) who
had been early taught -at Lahainaluna, and had become, through his knowledge and skill there acquired,
a man of wealth and standing. He brought lately to
Mr. Clark a present of four dollars, saying it was a
mea aloha, (a thing of love;) that it was to his instructions he owed his property and place, and that he was
going to make such a present to Mr. Andrews also, the
first teacher in the Seminary, but now  disconnected
with it and the American Board.
You hear it often said that there is little or no gratitude in the Hawaiian mind, and they have even no
word in their language to give thanks by. Be this as
it may, there are few, I think, who would not agree, in
this particular instance, that this man, at least, possessed both a sense of obligation and the feeling of gratefulness, which it would be pleasing often to see evinced
as substantially by men in other lands, that have a
better name for refinement than his, and where the




SUCCESSFUL EXPERIMENT OF MR. GREEN.    97
institutions of Christianity are of older date than
here.
A great stimulus to this action of the Wailuku church
undoubtedly is the example of a neighboring church
at Mfakawao, where Mr. Green retired after leaving
the American Board, organized a church, and was
settled as its pastor, on a promise of being supported.
He told them before he went that they must raise
wheat for his breadstuff, and immediately they began
in a district called IKula, and have succeeded in furnishing the best bread eaten at these Islands.  He
tells his luZCaS, persons appointed for this purpose,
when he wants any thing, and forthwith they do all
the pai2pciaiin  (stirring up) among the people, and it
conmes.
They also supply his domestics with food, haul all
his wood and timber, have put up the adobe dwelling
he now lives in, and are making ready to build a good
stone or wattled house.
The pastor of Maklawao received from his people on
January 4th, 1851, five hundred and thirty dollars in
money, as their free-will offerings to aid him in the
support of himself and his family. In addition, they
paid about forty dollars to a licensed native preacher of
the Gospel, who has been laboring among them. They
have also paid, during the year 1850, eight hundred
dollars in money towards the erection of a house for
public worship, and more than one hundred and fifty
dollars for other than domestic objects.  And they




98        LIFE IN THE SA NDWICI ISLANDS.
have promptly furnished their pastor with such comforts for his table as their fields afford.
The so far successful experiment he is making in a
place by no means the most favorable for it, will go far
to convince the native churches and the mission that
missionaries can be supported on the spot, not only
without impoverishing, but to the actual enriching of
the people, by the efforts it demands, and the productive energy it constrains them to put forth. It is as
true here as anywhere, that the liberal soul is made
fat, and he that watereth is wcatered also hmnself.?There is that giveth and yet increaseth.  There is that
withholdeth more than is meet, and it tendeth to poverty. Giving here, no more than in America, does not
impoverish; withholding doth not enrich.
The churches at "Wailuku and Makawao are beginning to find it out. The more they give, the more
(say they) they have. It was not a little amusing, as
well as affecting, to hear them sagely debate and express their minds, at the meeting in which this church
unanimously resolved to support their teacher.
Various and interesting were the reasons given for
so doing. One old man, bronzed with the tropical suns
of sixty summers, said, with a native eloquence and
emphasis not to be forgotten, that once his dollars and
haplahas used to go for tobacco and his sins, and it was
all poho, that is, sunk; and now it was a small thing to
give them for the support of the Gospel, by which he
had been led to leave off his sins.
Another said they were once thieves and murderers,




AFFECTING INSTANCES OF LIBERALITY.   99
and their property and lives were insecure; and now
it was but fair to give for the Gospel, by which it was
that they had made their property, and were able also
to keep it, and were so much better off than they used
to be.
Another said, if they supported their own teacher,
he would be theirs. Now they had had iMr. Green,
and he had gone; Mr. Armstrong, and he had gone;
and their tears had fallen, but they had murmured and
wept in vain. But if they themselves should pay their
teacher, he woqzld be theirs; they should hoopaca him,
that is, make him fast.
Another said that in this thing they must not promise and then not perform, but whatever they said they
would give they mnust give. That he himself was hewa
(that is, wrong) in this matter; he had sometimes promised what he had not yet performed. Then, after meeting was over, he came to Mr. Clark with three dollars,
saying it was a part of five which he had promised a
good while ago to the American Bible Company, for
printing the Hawaiian Bible, of which he was so glad
to have a copy.
Any benevolent patron of Mi]issions, to have been
there and hearid them debate, and to have witnessed
the evidence of their sincerity, would have thanked
God from his inmost soul for having ever been able, or
induced, to give to carry the Gospel where it had produced such benign results. And he would have said,
Let me deny myself in order to give this blessed Gospel to all the world; for this same Gospel, if applied




100          LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
to all the world as at the Sandwich Islands, would,
thei'e is every reason to believe, produce the same results-results that have all been secured within less
than thirty years since missionaries were first planted
there among a race of indescribably depraved and debased heathen.
After this action on the part of the church at Wailuku, a committee of missionaries, on the subject of
the support of pastors by their people, reported to the
General Mleeting convened at Oahu as follows:
1. That we regard the subject one of great importance to the
prosperity of Christian institutions in these Islands; and that it is
peculiarly gratifying to learn that some churches and congregations
have resolved to make the attempt to support their pastors, and are
actually taking measures to effect the object.
2. That, considering the increase of means, and the advancement of correct principles among the people, we believe the time
has come when several of the more able congregations might be
induced to support their pastors wholly, and many others might do
it in part; and we believe the present is a peculiarly favorable
time to present this subject to ouri several congregations, inasmuch
as there is already, in many intelligent natives, an interest awakened to this subject.
3. That every pastor take great pains to instruct his people, and
especially the church members, in the right use of money; to
teach them to curtail all useless superfluities, such expenses as are
incurred merely for show and ornament; and to induce them to
appropriate their means to useful objects only, such as will secure
to them all the advantages and comforts of complete civilization,
and especially to sustain among themselves all the institutions of
the Gospel, as the foundation upon which their temporal and eternal welfare must depend.




STEPS TOWARDS INDEPENDENCY.               101
4. In order to bring this subject in the most advantageous manner before the congregations which are able to support their pastors, in whole or in part, we recommend that the pastor, together
with such two members of the mission, and perhaps such influential native Christians as he may call to his aid, be a committee to
present this subject before.the people, and, in concert with them, to
devise such practical and efficient measures as will secure the object; and we recommend further, that these efforts be made as
soon as practicable after the close of the present General
Meeting.
These initiatory steps, beginning, it will be noticed,
with the people under the training of missionaries,
have resulted, in the year 1849, in an offer and acceptance, on the part of the Sandwich Islands Miission,
of a proposition of independency from the American
Board.
The fiftieth year of the nineteenth century closes
auspiciously with the grand experiment of a self-supporting  Mission  in  the  Heart of the Pacific successfully under way. Wbho of our readers does not
earnestly implore for it the blessing of the Almighty
Lord God, whose providences have been so marked
and many towards that infant Christendom, the foundations of which have been thus gloriously laid?




102            LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
CHAPTER V.
A GLANCE AT THE PROVINCE AND  RESULT OF MISSIONS IN  THE
HEART OF THE PACIFIC, AND A VISIT TO THE PALACE OF
THE SUN.
I WATCH with throbbing heart the zeal,
Whose all-incorporating plan
Can teach a million souls to feel
For all that's man-for all that's man!
And every human title blend
In those of Brother and of Friend.
BOWRING.
A passing tribute to the true modern apostles-Character of Protestant civilizationTheory and practice at Wailuku —History and progi'ess of the Female Seminary-Province of woman in the work of civilization —How fulfilled —Examination of schools —Hawaiian girls-Trip to the crater of Hale-a-ka-la-We
reach the brim-Novel scene opened at the top-Spectacle of grandeur and glory
presented by the clouds —A play-ground for the youth of heaven —Feelings belonging to such a position-Man's nothingness and the Creator's glory-Rhapsody of
Rowland Hill —Luther's view of the majestic vault of God-Lesson we learned
from the lofty look-out of Hale-a-ka-la-A sight from the cliffs of eternity-Montgomery's imprecation-We are let down safely —We pass to the sugar-making on
East Maui-Farming lands —Horseback route through Haiku-Sand-hills and ancient Golgotha-Reflections on a skull —Evidence of former culture and dense population —Present record of deaths and births —Mortality of the year 1848 by measles
-Culture of rice by Chinamen-Fine appearance of the garden and terraces of
Wailuku —Entertainment at the Seminary-Sports with the children.
WITHOUT being of the craft,-an honor which providences have forbidden,-we freely confess to what may
already have been discovered in these pages, namely,
to an unfeigned love and respect for foreign missionaries. Well knowing whereof we affirm, we hold them
worthy of all honor.   They are  Civilization's pioneers




THE TRUE WORKING SOCIALISTS.        103
and explorers, as well as the tamers of mankind and
preachers of the Gospel.
It is of them that Tacitus might have said most
truly, Emolliunt mores, nee sinunt esse feros-They
soften and improve both the manners and the morals
of men, and forbid their living like beasts. They are
Humanity's best teachers; Freedom's truest champions; Labor's ablest lifters; Society's real equalizers,
and the clearest expounders of the rights of man.
They are, indeed, the only true Apostles of Liberty,
Fraternity, Equality-the world's working Socialists.
They are the heralds and advance-guard of Agriculture,
Science, and Art, and of all true social reformation, as
well as of virtue and religion.
In their relations to barbarous tribes, and to the
wide world of suffering humanity, they alone do truly
blend in one the Christianizer, Civilizer, Benefactor,
Brother, Friend. They act in the spirit of John iHampden's motto, Nulla vestigia retrorsum —No steps backward.
A practical demonstration of this is now seen at
Wailuku; and it is pleasant to be able to testify of a
station which, up to 1850, has enjoyed the labors of
resident missionaries for eighteen years, that the people
seem to be better clad, better housed, and to live better
than at any other part of this Heart of the Pacific yet
visited. Three special reasons may be assigned for it:
First, The region is a fruitful one, supplying kalo and
potatoes in abundance, and furnishing pasturage for
herds, in which natives begin to hold property. Sec



104       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
ond, A good market is opened for their products at
Lahaina, within thirty miles, at which they can obtain
cloth. Third, Something has been done in the way of
agriculture and internal improvements by the missionaries.
The station was first taken by the Rev. J. S. Green,
with whom was afterwards associated the 1Rev. Richard Armstrong, both laborious and practical men.
Much benefit has also been derived here from the residence and labors of the blind preacher, Bartimeus,
the first convert to Christianity at these Islands. He
died, beloved and lamented, in September, 1844. B3ut
his works do follow him, and shall be had in everlasting remembrance. A little memoir of this good
man hab been published, and a larger work on his Life
and Time;3 is said to be in preparation by the first pastor of the Wailuku church.
The infiu.,nee of the Female Seminary located here
has undoub edly also been great and salutary. It was
commenced by [Mr. Green, in 1837, by the erection of
a substantial stone building, fifty-six feet long by twentyfour wide, tind two stories high. Thirty pupils were
admitted that year, and an excellent female teacher
associated ill the instruction and care of them, who continues to occtlpy a post of so much usefulness. In 1840,
the charge of the school was given to Mr. Bailey, which
he still retains,  The largest number of pupils at any
one time has been seventy. The present number is
fifty-two.
Besides then istone building first erected, there are




DISCIPLINE OF THIE FEMALE -SEMINARY.    105
now a fine Chapel forty feet long, furnished with desks,
seats, and school apparatus; two neat lecture and recitation rooms, floored, painted, and whitewashed; two
ranges, of adobe buildings for dormitories, one hundred
and twenty feet long, in front and rear of the chapel;
thirty acres of land inclosed and under cultivation by
a native farmer attached to the institution, and eight
native laborers.
The time of the pupils is employed as follows: one
hour from early rising in the garden, then prayers and
breakfast, recreations and miscellaneous work till nine;
then two hours with Miss Ogden in spinning, knitting,
and sewing; bathing, relaxation, and dinner, till two;
then two hours of recitation and study with Mr. Bailey,
followed by an hour's work in the garden; supper
between five and six; evening prayers at half past
seven; hours of retiring eight and nine, according to
their ages.
More time was at first spent within doors and in
study. But it was found detrimental to health, and
that the Hawaiian constitution, used to indolence, freedom, and sunshine, could not bear much confinement
without giving way. Weekly excursions are now taken
with their teacher to the mountain or sea-shore, and
care is used to keep them much in the open air. The
health of the school is consequently better, and they
form a company of hearty, happy girls, as fond of a
romp and ball-playing, and as glad to be noticed, as
ever boarding-school girls are in America.
Five of them are members of the church, and sev5*




106        LIFE IN THIE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
eral others are hopefully pious. Ten or twelve having
finished their course, have been married to graduates
from Lahainaluna, and others are held in reserve for
the same market.
The design of the femalefseminary, says Mr. Dibble,
is to take a class of young females into a boardingschool, away, in a measure, from the contaminating influences of heathen society, to train them to habits of
industry, neatness, and order, to instruct them in employments suited to their sex, to cultivate their minds,
to improve their manners, and to instil the principles
of religion; to fit them to be suitable companions for
the scholars of the Mission Seminary, and examples
of propriety among the females of the Sandwich Islands.
The short time in which the institution has been in
operation hardly authorizes a judgment, as to how far
these ends have been answered. But no one who examines it, and sees its practical working, can fail of the
conviction that female family boarding-schools must
form a very important instrumentality in the work of
elevating this nation.
The women remaining as they now are, men, whatever pains may be bestowed on them, can get but little
higher; while with every single degree of woman's ascent in the scale of civilization and goodness, you raise
man two. The two lessons of chief importance for
Hawaiian women to learn, are modesty and industry.
Induce these, and every thing is gained-the end of
female education at present answered. But a train



WOMIEN AS THEY ARE AND SHOULD BE.    107
ing that does not accomplish this, fails entirely, how
much soever knowledge may be communicated, or art
learned.
Let an Hawaiian female be only modest and industrious, and she will make a neat and prudent wife,
and a better mother than ever Hawaiian boy has had
yet. Miany such, we cannot but hope, will be made
under the management of the teachers of this institution. MSay God give them wisdom and skill, and
permit them to see all, on whom they have bestowed
pains, examples of womanly propriety to the females
of IIawaii-nei!
It is impossible to see them going in a body to the
sanctuary, uniformly apparelled, sitting orderly by
themselves, attending, many of them, diligently to sermons, that they may sustain an examination on them,
and looked upon with regard and interest by the rest
of the congregation, without being convinced that the
indirect influence of the institution is beneficial and
great. Perhaps it is to be attributed to this, that the
common schools in this district are reported the
present year more favorably of, and as in a better
state than in any other field from which a report is
made.
There are twenty-five schools, and eight hundred
and eight scholars. I have had the pleasure of seeing
them collected at three or four different points for a
quarterly examination by the pastor, and kahu-kula,
(school superintendent.) They are dressed at such
times in their best " bib and tucker," which, with the




108        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
boys, is a shirt and pantaloons, with perhaps a cotton
handkerchief over their shoulders for a lcihei; with
the girls, their mother's, or some rnakamakca's, best
robe and feather, lei, (wreath,) and any thing for a dkiei
they can muster, either a nice white kccpct, or a breadth
of silk, or something figured.
The prettiest thing of all is their flower-wreaths, especially those made of the yellow ilimac. They string
the blossoms on a stem of grass with much taste and
skill, and no little patience. With these the girls
wreathe their heads sometimes like a turban, and hang
them  round their necks, which, though they be redskinned, are sometimes erect and beautiful as that famous one of Ma.ryr Queen of Scots.
I like the lHawaiians for their fondness for flowers,
or, rather, for decorating their persons with them. It
is a pity a cl;stom  so innocent in itself should ever
have to be disc )untenanced by their religious teachers.
Some have thDught it necessary to do so, because
wearing of leis has been abused to purposes of vanity,
and meretricia:'-  allurement and display.  We can
hardly believe. rc:-wever, that much harm  can ensue
fromn putting!fiowers or: feathers to such a use, while
the taste is bh,,;i.ght thereby into pleasurable exercise,
and so far cl.'tainly is good.
And whib!2 the  bonnets of foreign ladies, now and then,
perhaps, of missi(,naries, are seen fluttering with gay ribbons and plumes, it is hardly fair to put a tabu on birds'
feathers and -wild-flowers for the heads of Hawaiian
women. Tib',re are ways of'wearing them which, it is




THE LESSONS TAUGHT BY FLOWERS.             109
said, have a vicious meaning, for which church members have been sometimes disciplined; with how much
propriety, the good men that have done it, and who
may be supposed to know most of native customs and
character, are the best judges. Poor human nature is
wont to abuse to its injury almost every thing, whether evil or good.  But I think the tempter must be
brought to an unusual pinch before he would have
recourse to so innocent and sweet a thing as flowers,
whereby to teach men how  to tempt and vitiate one
another.
One whom I greatly honor and love says, though not
for the world's eye, that
Flowers are books-the sweetest leaves
That Nature's wisdom ever weaves:
And wise and gentle hearts we need,
Their deep and varied lore to read.
Some melancholy lessons, too,
We would not have them hide from view.
And it was the queen of English female poets that sang
of the flowers,Bring flowers, fresh flowers, for the bride to wear!
They were born to blush in her shining hair.
She is leaving the home of her childhood's mirth,
She hath bid farewell to her father's hearth:
Her place is now by another's side,Bring flowers for the locks of the fair young bride!
But farewell for a while to flowers, and to the maidens that wear them, for we are ol a horseback excursion of thirty-five miles from  Wailuku to the top of




110        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
IHale-a-ka-la, The Itouse of the Sun. We make- up our
party at Rev. Mr. Green's, who resides two thousand
feet up the gentle declivity of the mountain. From
his house, at five in the morning, we start for the summit of the extinct volcano, eight of us in all mounted,
and one native on foot.
To within five miles of the top, as far as an old bullock-pen, into which the Spaniards used to chase wild
cattle, the path is distinct and quite good, and the ascent not steep. Thence it is very rugged and stony
without any legible track.
HIills peep o'er hills,
And Alps o'er Alps arise,
as we advance; and when we think we see and shall
soon reach the last, lo! there runs up before us another
ridge-like wall, equally distant and high.
At length, by half past ten, we reach the crater's
brim, and, dismounting from our tired horses, those of
us who have been able to urge them so far, advance
to the edge, and there suddenly opens upon us a
deep, wide pit, twenty-five or thirty miles in circumference, and two or three thousand feet deep. We counted in it fourteen or sixteen basins of old volcanoes, volcano within volcano, as a wheel within a wheel. There
are also two vast openings or sluice-gates in the lava
walls, one on the northeast, and one on the southeast,
out of which the molten lava and sand once poured
down to the sea.
In this great pit a man would be dwarfed to the size




SPECTACLE OF GLORY FRO2M THE CRATER.   111
of an infant; and great silver-sword plants, (ensi8s argentea,) as large as a half-bushel, looked, away down
on the sides of those volcanic cones, like little white
pebbles. Its walls and ramparts are as huge and high,
for aught I know, as those " Hell-bounds" in our great
English Epic, that kept within the rebel angels.  And
if a man should once get down there, methinks he
would look up oppressed, and feel like Sterne's starling, " I can't get out."
But if the view of the now extinct crater, once rolling its fiery surges, and vomiting from a score of
mouths its igneous bowels, was vast and strange, a
spectacle of far more grandeur was that immediately
presented, as we looked afar over the crater to the
northeast and west-a spectacle which neither the
tongue, nor pen of angels or men, could ever so describe as to give to any mind an adequate conception
of its magnificence and glory.
"O,'twas an unimaginable sight!
Clouds, mists, streams, watery rocks, and emerald turf,
Clouds of all tincture, rocks, and sapphire sky,
Confused, commingled, mutually inflamed,
In fleecy folds voluminous enwrapped."
WVe had seen for a long time, as we kept ascending,
the clouds gathering and rolling up beneath us at a
distance of four thousand feet; for, owing to its rarification, the air is incapable of sustaining clouds beyond
a certain height, and the principal masses are held at
an average elevation above the level of the sea of five
thousand two hundred and eighty feet, or one mile.




112       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Now we turned to look from our elevated position of
ten thousand feet, and behold! one vast expanse, like
a field of purest new-fallen snow, which the wind has
rolled in drifts and ridges, covering all the mountain,
plain, and sea, and reflecting the sunbeams with a dazzling splendor.
Now and then a place would be rent or excavated in
the snowy masses, or the curtain of cloud would be
lifted, and the form of the Island of Lanai would be
visible away over the mountains of Lahaina, six thousand feet high, and sometimes a portion of the bay and
shore of Wailuku, whitened by the noiseless surf.
Then trending off to the horizon, a hundred miles, was
the blue Pacific, lifted up ten thousand feet by a familiar optical illusion, to a plane of vision as high as the
very summit of Hale-a-ka-la; and rising out of it was
the glorious dome of Mauna Loa, on the great Island
of Hawaii, its snow-capped'summit flashing in the sun
like a bank of alabaster. The clouds, and their shadows upon other clouds far beneath, could be seen
hovering over: the blue abyss, and sometimes they
seemed to float in it in separate masses like great icebergs.
The longer one looked, the greater grew the wonder
and glory. What with the vast height, the pure, rarified air, the solemn stillness like as in creation's prime,
the absence of every thing human and artificial, the
smooth envelope of vapor in which -every thing below
was hid, it was as if we were looking down from
scme place in the heavens upon the bare convex of the




REACH AND GRANDEUR OF THE PROSPECT.   113
earth; and one of our party remarked, that there
was constantly in his mind the description of Milton's
angel
Alighting on the firm, opacous globe
Of this round world, whose first convex divides
The luminous inferior orbs, inclosed
From chaos and the inroad of darkness old.
I fairly wanted to leap down into the soft lap of the
clouds, clear as chalcedony, and smooth and white as
the breast of an eider-duck; and we thought the
sight might tempt the flight of angels from the battlements of heaven, to sport on the bosom of that beautiful sea.
The extent of vision on each of three sides was at
least two hundred miles. To the west, the base of the
mountain, the bay and plains of Wailuku, the mountains of West MIaui, and over them the islands of Lanai
and Molokai, as if suspended in the sky, and the great
Pacific. To the north, the vast ocean of clouds in midair, and of sea below. To the south, looking across
the crater, and forty miles over the channel between
l[aui and Hawaii, could be seen, within an opening of
the clouds, the surf-whitened shore of the latter island; and seventy or eighty miles further, towering up
in majestic grandeur fourteen thousand feet above the
ocean of clouds, were the blue summits of Mauna Kea
and Mauna Loa, the former revealing a snow-bank on
its top, shining like the battlements of heaven, as seen
in the Apocalypse.
The view this side had a reach and immensity of




114           LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
distance that was indescribably grand. It forms an
impression, and fixes an image in the mind, that recurs and visits one again and again, with all the vividness of a dream.*
While we were gazing with delight, now on one side,
now on the other, vast masses of vapor began to roll
into the crater through the sluice-way on the north, but
still so low, that we were between two and three thousand feet above it In descending, we were more than
an hour before arriving at the cloudy belt, or having
the sun at all obscured.
* We find it said very justly, and from a real experience and a
true poetic insight, by a writer in the New York " Independent," as
follows:-One who stands upon the summit of Mount Washington,
there takes in an idea of vastness, sublimity, and power, which thenceforth is incorporated with his spiritual being, and which will ofttimes dilate his soul when he has returned to the common level of
earth.  One who stands at the base of Niagara, or peers into its
abyss from the overhanging cliff, receives an impression of the grand,
the beautiful, the terrible, which thenceforth lives within him, and
reproduces itself with its first ecstasy amid all the changes of place
and time.  One who gazes enraptured upon a beautiful picture,
transfers it to the texture of his mind, and, whoever may possess
it, he carries it ever with him as his own treasure. One who listens
to an enchanting strain of music, thenceforth feels it in every pulse
of his soul. One who hears an eloquent oration, is raised by it to
a height of intellectual enjoyment to which he'oft returns in aftermeditation.  And though these impressions cannot be conveyed to
others in words, their influence is shared through the higher tone of
power, of beauty, of love in him who has experienced them. There
is, moreover, a peculiar sympathy between those who have received
like impressions, which attracts them *to each other, and enables
them to commune together in that mysterious soul-language which has
ilo outward exponent.




EMOTIONS KINDLED BY THE SIGHT.      115
The feelings of a man the first time he gets so far
above the limits of human habitation are peculiar and
new. One wants lo be some time alone, and to give
himself silently up to the sight, in order to multiply
and deepen by meditation the impressions which it is
fitted to produce.
The unfortunate Scotch naturalist, Douglass, who was
found dead in a bullock-trap on Hawaii, describing in
one of his letters a place on Hawaii somewhat similar
to Hale-a-ka-la, very justly remarks, that "were the
traveller permitted to express the emotions he feels
while placed on such an astonishing part of the earth's
surface, cold indeed must his heart be to the great operations of nature, and still colder towards nature's
God, by whose wisdom  and power such wonderful
scenes were created, if he could behold them without
deep humility, mingled with reverential awe. Man
feels himself as nothing-as if standing on the verge
of another world. A death-like stillness of the place,
not an animal nor an insect to be seen, far removed
from the din and bustle of the world, impresses on
his mind with double force the extreme helplessness
of his condition-an object of pity and compassion, utterly unworthy to stand in the presence of a great and
good Saviour and holy God, and to contemplate the di-,
versified works of his hands."
On the authority of this traveller, there was an active crater on the summit of Mauna Loa, on Hawaii,
when he visited it, like this extinct one of Hale-a-ka-la,
twenty-four miles in circumference, " five miles square




116        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
of which is a lake of liquid fire, in a state of ebullition,
sometimes tranquil, at other times rolling its blazing
waves with furious agitation, andc casting them up in
columns fromn thirty to one hundred and seventy feet
high. In places the hardened lava assumes the form
of Gothic arches in a colossal building, piled one above
another in terrific magnificence, through and among
which the fiery fluid forces its way in a current that
proceeds three and a quarter miles per hour, or loses
itself in fathomless chasms at the bottom of the caldron. This volcano is twelve hundred and seventy-two
feet deep down to the fire. Its chasms and caverns can
never be measuredY.''
It is a fit employment, when standing on the brink
of the giant crater of IIale-a-ka-la, to give one's imnagination scope, and attempt to conceive the vast force
and intensity of those mineral fires that, ages back, had
this for their play-ground and place of disemboguement. With all the helps afforded in the rugged features of the scene, and the visual evidence you have
of the terrible volcanic agency that here had sweep,
imagination falls far short of the reality. But it gives
to the conceptive faculty vividness and amplitude to
visit such spots, and to venture out on such imaginary
excursions. And a man finds the material he gets
there an element of power, sustaining the imagination
in a longer flight, and giving its pinions strength and
endurance.
~ Hawaiian Spectator, vol. II. p. 405.




MARTIN LUTHER AND ROWLAND HILL.    117
We were sorry to leave the summit without going
down into the abyss.* But that was impossible, unless
we would make up our minds to spend the night there,
and try the cold and moonlight, for which we were not
prepared. We had, therefore, to make the best of our
way down before nightfall, carrying with  ls some
plants of the silver-sword, and specimens of a silver
geranium, sage, and sandal-wood, picked: by the way.
Woefully worn and weary, but, through a kind Providence, without any serious accident, we all reached
again the hospitable house of our entertainer by six
o'clock.
Perhaps, in perusing this account of the spectacle
of grandeur and glory presented by the self-sustained
clouds of Hale-a-ka-la, some reader may call to mind
the expression that burst from the lips of Rowland
Hill, as he was viewing some fine scenery in England
and Wales: —Oh, if these outskirts of the Almighty's
dominion can with one glance so oppress the heart
with gladness, what will be the disclosures of eternity,
when the full revelation shall be made of the things
not seen, and of the river of the City of God! Or that
fine passage in one of Luther's Letters-'" I saw lately two signs in the heavens. I looked
from my window in the middle of the night, and I saw
the stars, and all the majestic vault of God, sustaining
* The bottom of this crater, according to measurements of the U. S.
Exploring Squadron, is 27183 feet below the summit-peak, and 2093 feet
below the level of the wall. 




118       LIE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
itself, without my being able to perceive the pillars
upon which the Creator had propped it. Nevertheless,
it crumbled not away. There are those, however, who
search for these pillars, and who would fain touch them
with their hands; but not being able to find them, they
trouble, lament, and fear the heavens will fall. Again,
I saw great and heavy clouds floating over my head
like an ocean. I could neither perceive grounn on
which they reposed, nor cords by which they were suspended; and yet they did not fall upon us, but saluted
us rapidly and fled away. And as they passed, I distinguished a splendid rainbow. Slight it was, without
doubt, and delicate; one could not but tremble for it
under such a mass of clouds. Nevertheless, this aery
line sufficed to support the load, and to protect us. So
is our rainbow weak, and the clouds heavy; but the
end will tell the strength of our bow."
There is yet another and original lesson we learned
from our lofty look-out on the House of the Sun; which
is this-that it is with Christians, in their travel through
the world, their pilgrimage to the heavenly Canaan,
as with travellers in climbing the mountains: They
must ordinarily pass through a region of storms and
belts of clouds, if they will get to the top; and it is
seldom or never that they have the clear sunshine all
the way. They are willing, indeed, to be drenched in
rain and enveloped in darkness, for the grandeur of a
storm in the mountains, and to see how glorious is the
after sun-gush. And they enjoy the clear weather and
reach of prospect from the top all the more, for hav



SPIRITUAL LESSON AND IMPULSE.         119
ing gone through blackness and tempest in order to
gain it.
Who that has ever climbed with difficulty some
commanding mountain, and thence has looked far
down upon the zone of clouds that so lately enveloped
him, but has felt this? And who has not been well
paid, as we were, for the toil and danger gone through
in reaching the summit, by the indescribable magnificence of view which then burst upon him, made up, in
great part, of those very clouds, that only rained upon
him when he was in their bosom, but now show far below him like fields of diamonds, or pavement of chalcedony in heaven's own light?
Even so will it be with the persevering pilgrim,
faint, yet pursuing, when he stands on the eminence
of MIount Zion above, having safely surmounted all the
trials, and perils, and storms of the way. Ah, what glory will break upon him then, if he has been found faithful here; and what a position that will be to stand in
and review this life, and find, in the light of eternity,
how all things were working together for his good!
EXCELSIOR, EXCELSIOR, be my motto, as I mount upward and onward to the City of God, eternal in the
heavens!
"And O ye everlasting hills!
Buildings of God, not made with hands,
Whose Word performs whate'er he wills,
Whose Word, though ye shall perish, stands;
Can there be eyes that look on you,
Till tears of rapture make them dim,




120        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Nor in his woriks the Maker view,
Then lose his works in Him?
By me, when I behold HIir not,
Or love Him not when I behold,
Be all I ever knew forgot;
My pulse stand still, my heart grow cold i"
After this memorable ascent and return from 1lHalea-ka-la, our party were all kindly cared for by Rev.
Mr. Green at Makawao, including the United States
Commissioner, George Brown, since lost, as it is supposed, in a Typhoon, on his return to America by way
of China.
In the vicinity of Mr. Green's residence at iMakawao
is the largest sugar-making establishment at these Islands, except that on ilKauai.  It belongs to an enterprising and upright American, who has procured a
lease from government, on favorable terms, of upward
of two hundred acres of excellent land. One hundred
and fifty are under cultivation with sugar-cane. He
has cast-iron cylinders for his mill, which is turned by
oxen. A large part of the fuel for his furnaces is
the refuse ground cane.  Natives are employed as
laborers, at a rate of from twelve to twenty cents
per day.
The sugar has to be carted either twelve or eighteen
miles to a landing-place, where it sells for three cents a
pound.  It is clean and well granulated, and much superior in quality to the common West India brown
sugar.  Much of the cane-juice is not made into sugar,
but boiled into syrup or molasses, and sold for eight
and ten cents per gallon. It is a much finer article




FARMING LANDS AT EAST MLAUI.       121
than that which sells in America for thirty and thirtylfive cents.
It needs, however, the best thrift and husbandry to
keep such an establishment out of debt and make it
productive. How long the land will bear cane well
without manuring, remains to be seen. The Koloa
plantation on Kauai is said to be running out, and no
longer to yield a dividend to its holders. Extensive
manuring, it is thought, will be necessary in order to
keep up its productiveness. The high lands all along
the south side of East MIaui, from Kahikinui to Haiku,
are very fine for farming. It is the region in which
most of the Irish potatoes are raised for the ships at
Lahaina, and all the wheat raised at the Islands is
grown here.  Its climate, also, is highly salubrious, and it will yet be the garden of the Sandwich Islands, from which not only whale-ships, but
the hotels of San Francisco, shall obtain their supplies.
Were it a cland of brooks of water, offountcains arnd
depths that spring out of valleys and hill8, as well as
a land that driwn7eth waster of the rain, of heaven, it
would be attractive to foreign settlers above any other
district in this group. But, owing to the cavernous.
and cellular character of the rock, as in every volcanic
country, there cannot form reservoirs in the high lands
that might be feeders to wells dug lower down; but
the rain either at once runs off in some places on the
surface, or percolates quickly through and settles to a
level with the sea.
6




122       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Hence there are no wells in Hawaii-nei, except on
coral bottoms nearly at a level with the ocean, as at
Honolulu, Lahaina, and the mission station on MIolokai. The springs from which natives drink all along
the sea, especially on the leeward side of the Islands,
are so brackish that their water is hardly better than
a dose of salts to a man unused to it. Up in the
mountains, it is found in pools made by cavities in the
rocks.
In returning from Mlakawao to Wailuku, a distance
of twenty miles, you may take a romantic path down
to the sea by the way of Haiku, through dells and
groves of the silvery Akucui, and the deep-green moonleaved koa, with its beautiful nmimosa-like blossoms.
Nearly on a level with the sea, you will cross several
long, nicely smoothed artificial furrows, in which the
natives used to play at ulu-mnaika, a kind of game of
quoits; and you will ride over fine white sand-hills, as
pure and crinkled as a drift of new-fallen snow, and as
beautiful and barren, too, as any ever seen in Araby
the Blest.
One sand-hill in that vicinity has been an old
burying-ground or battle-place, now laid bare by the
winds. Skulls, having jaws in perfect preservation,
with thirty-four teeth sound, (showing that the savage
practice of knocking out teeth did not prevail when
they were inhumed,) and all the bones of the human
body, some of them of gigantic size, lie bleaching all
around.




A TREASURY OF HUMAN BONES.       123
I collected a few for the benefit of comparative anatomy, and roce off with a skull dangling at my pommel,
to give to some head-hunting phrenologist; not, however, without certain compunctions as to the propriety
of transporting the dead, and separating these disjecta
membrca of our common humanity. Be it that they
belong only to the ignobile /vulgs, or to forgotten
savage chiefs, yet are they remnants of a mortal
that is to put on immortality, of a corruption that
is to inherit incorruption, alike with the guarded
bones of the world's proudest kings, whose mausoleum must be a pyramid or structure of marble.
Should a passion for bone-worship ever get in vogue
here, as in the Old WVorld, the wily priest can metamorphose some of these into good Saint Anthony's,
and save the trouble of importation from his tomb in
Egypt.
Hamlet's reflections are so natural, though abrupt
and moulded by his passion, that every one must have
had them in turning up an unknown skull, or observing for the first time the bleaching remains of the dead
-" That had a tongue in it, and could sing once. This
might be my lord such-a-one that praised my lord sucha-one's horse, when he meant to beg it. Dost thou
think Alexander looked o' this fashion in the earth?
To what base uses may we return, Horatio! Why
may not imagination trace the noble dust of Alexander, till he find it stopping a bung-hole? As thus:
Alexander died, Alexander was buried, Alexander returneth to dust; the dust is earth; of earth we make




i24       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
loam: and why of that loam, whereto he was converted, might they not stop a beer-barrel?
Imperial CGesar dead, and turned to clay,
Might stop a hole to keep the wind away:
O, that the earth which kept the world in awe
Should patch a wall to expel the winter's flaw 1"
As you get into the valley and vega of Wailuku, you
see numerous remains of old kihapai8s, or cultivated
lots, and divisions of land now waste, showing how
much more extensive formerly was the cultivation, and
proportionally numerous the people, than now. It is
so all through this foodfill region. From accounts
kept one year by Mr. Green, he estimated that the
births were to the deaths as one to five; and he says
the population has fallen off very greatly since the time
he was first settled here.
In the year 1842, in the field of Rev. Lorenzo Lyons, on the Island of Hawaii, out of a population
of five thousand six hundred, there were four hundred
and thirty-four deaths, and ninety-eight births; or the
births to the deaths as one to four and two-sevenths.
In the year 1848, the year of devastation by measles,
the excess of deaths over births in the whole kingdom
was estimated at six thousand four hundred and sixtyfive, being an annual decrease of about eight per cent.
If foreigners ever supersede the native race here,
they may cultivate rice in the present inundated actlopatches, and without any change. A family of Chinamen are raising it in this valley in considerable quan



THE GARDEN OF A MISSIONARY.        125
tity. Two crops of rice, it is said, can be realized
while one of kalo is ripening alongside of it. Labor
expended upon it would, undoubtedly, be better paid
than upon the ar.mn esclentetmn, which now constitutes
the great staple of Hlawaiians. But there must be machinery introduced to thresh and winnow it, and pots to
boil it for eating, which few yet possess.
The Chinamen have an Oriental way of getting the
grain out of the husk, which is highly characteristic,
but hardly to be described. A bed of it, when young
and growing, is of a fresh, bright green, that is exceedingly grateful to the eye.
The whole valley of Wailuku, cultivated terrace after
terrace, gleaming with running waters and standing
pools, is a spectacle of uncommon beauty to one that
has a position a little above it. Mr. Bailey's garden,
also, at the mission station, irrigated by a brook led out
of this valley at a point some way up towards the
mountain, is a place by no means devoid of taste and
beauty. It is altogether the prettiest missionary's garden
in the Islands, and has a considerable variety of plants,
fruits, and flowers.
Among these are the passion-flower, the mysteriously shrinking little sensitive-plant, and the splendid nightblooming Cereus, more gorgeous and ample in its corolla than the Magnolia, but chastely beautiful in its color
as the most highly prized water-lily. The girls of Mr.
Bailey's school show no little taste in combining the
flowers into divers wreaths and nosegays, for the adornment of their tables and persons.




126       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
We arrived back from Makawao in time to be present at an entertainment which they gave in their dining-hall, under the direction of their manager, MIiss
Ogden, to the visitors at the station. The half hundred haemnmcc6 (pupils) occupied two tables, twenty
feet long. The visitors and resident mission families
(of whom not the least attractive portion was twelve
happy children) had their places at a middle one. After the guests had all been seated, the ringing of a little
table-bell brought in all the girls, neatly dressed and
orderly, to their seats. Then they sang a verse of a
hymn, followed by a blessing. Supper ensued with
great cheerfulness, concluded with giving of thanks and
another verse of an Hawaiian hymn.
Afterwards, out on the grassy play-ground, we had
blind-man's-buff, and ball, and hide-and-go-seek, with
the pretty circle of boys and girls, till we were much
more tired, but not less pleased, than they. WVe should
like to keep a child's heart, and spirits, and relish for
innocent sports as long as we live. And when the humor suits we will indnlge in them, and try to make
ourselves and children happy, for all the world. Quod
delectat juventuteml jucunndurn est viro —That which
delights the youth is pleasing to the man.




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FIRST CONVERT TO CHRISTIANITY.                        127
CHAPTER VI.
SKETCHES OF THE BLIND  PREACHER AND THE BIRTH-PLACE  OF
KAAHUMANU, IN  EAST MAUI.
THERE is no light without companion shade:
There are no griefs which do not herald joys:
In Nature's balance all are fairly weighed,
And every thing must have its equipoise.
Great Nature is a choral hymn sublime,
Its melody complete, its octaves true;
Its notes all harmonize, as rhyme with rhyme:
If there be any' discords, they are few;
And when they cease, the rhythm flows anew.
ANos.
The law of compensation illustrated —Memorials of the first convert to ChristianityHis birth and boyhood-Early deformity and loss of sight-Skill in the HulaAdoption by the court as a buffoon-Abandoned to perish-Dawning of the dayspring-He hears of Christ —He turns to the Pono-The chiefs send for him to
mnake sport-Memorable answer-Joiunal respecting him-Affecting attitude-Divine sovereignty exemplified —Probation, for the church-Record of his examination —First-fruits-He grows and endures —Light breaks-Light is withdrawnHe is thrown upon memory —He hides the Word of God-Acquires extraordinary
strength and tenacity of memory —Labors effectively with the missionaries-Is licensed to preach the Gospel-Account of one of his sermons-Power as a preacher
-Surprise of the missionaries —Resources of illustration —Ministry in HonuaulaLife and death —We pass and ponder his field of labor-Supposed mental exercises
in his blindness-We proceed to Hana —Remarkable road over clinkers-How
made, and by whom —After-streams from the volcano-The warfare of a nightVictory to the Ukulele-A chief of the olden time-A dance at Kaupo —Perils by
canoe-Sketches of the missionary station of Hana-Natural features and productions-Riding up to the clouds-Cave where Kaahumanu was born-Two strange
things in the kingdom of nature and kingdom of grace-A volcanic bathing-house.
TIIE truth at the head of this Chapter, that there is
evermore a law of compensation and equipoise running
through  all things, has its comment and  corroboration
in the character and history of a remarkable man,




12S8       LI'E IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
through the earthly scene of whose labors I have been
passing, in order to reach the eastern extremity of the
Island of I; Xli.
That mall was the first convert to Christianity at
these Island:, and the first who received the Christian
ordinance of Taptism, formally introducing- him to the
fellowship cf thll universal Church, under the Christian
name of 3Bartimeus, on the tenth day of July, 1825.
His name is on heavenly records, and it is familiar to
the ear of Protestant Christendom, as the Blind Hawaiian Preac her, or Bartimeus L. Puaaiki.
The district of Honuaula, in East MIaui, through
which we have been travelling, was the sphere of his
faithfnl labors as a minister of the Gospel for the four
or five years prior to his death in September, 1843.
He was born in the densest darkness of Savage Paganism, six or seven years after the death of Captain Cook;
and, when buried alive by the hand of his own mother,
he was saved, in the providence of God, to be a chosen
vessel to bear his name before kings.
He was a neglected and wicked heathen boy; and,
between his early addictedness to the use of intoxicating awac, his filthy habits, and exposures, with scarcely
a rag of clothing, or a hat to shield his eyes from the
rays of the tropical sun or wind, he had nearly lost his
eyesight before attaining to man's estate. In a brief
sketch of him by one of the missionaries, it is said
that he was hideously diseased; his beard flowed
down to his bosom; his only garment was an old
dirty kikei, or native kapa, thrown over his shoul



EARLY LIFE OF BARTIMEUS.         129
ders: diminutive in size, he was a laughing-stock of
the boys, and was fast wearing himself out in the service of Satan.
" In these circumstances, he attracted the notice of
Kanamalu, the favorite Queen of Liholiho, or IKamehameha II., who'afterwards died in England. His
skill in the hula, or native dance, his being a hairy
man, and other reasons not easily known at present,
recommended him to the favor of the chiefs; not, indeed, as a companion, but as a buffoon. When sent
for, he made sport for the Queen and other chiefs, and
received in return a pittance of food and of his favorite
awa."
On the arrival of the pioneers of the mission at
Kailua, in the spring of 1820, Puaaiki was there with
the chiefs, but he probably knew nothing of them or of
their errand. Having given permission to the missionaries to remain at the Islands for a season, the King
and chiefs sailed for Oahu. Mr. Bingham accompanied them, and the blind dancer followed in their train.
On arriving at Honolulu, he had a severe fit of sickness. In addition to this, his disease of the eyes became much aggravated; so that, shut up in darkness,
and unable to make his accustomed visits to the Queen,
he was well nigh forgotten, and in danger of perishing.
" But the time of deliverance to this poor captive of
Satan (says the writer of the sketch above referred to)
had now come. He was visited by John Honolii, a native youth educated at Cornwall, Connecticut; who,
6*




130       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH'ISLANDS.
seeing Puaaiki lying in this pitiable situation, was
touched with Christian compassion, and spoke to him
of the great and good Physician, who alone could heal
his maladies and restore his sight.- Puaaiki seemed to
rouse up on hearing ticlings of so unwonted a character,
and he eagerly inquired,'What is that?' On being
again directed to the Lord Jesus Christ, the Physician
of souls, he said at once that he would go and hear of
him."
As soon as he was able to crawlout of the house, he
accompanied Honolii to the place of worship, and heard
for the first time the glad tidings of great joy to all
people, that the Son of Mdan had come to seek and to
save that which was lost. Nor did he listen in vain;
for the Lord, who had shined out of darkness, opened
the spiritual eyesight and heart of this blind buffoon,
to receive the truth in the love thereof.
The change wrought in him by the Spirit of God
soon became known, his connection with the chiefs being one means of making it public. For, soon after the
period of his hopeful conversion, the chiefs, having a
drunken carousal, sent for Puaaiki to practise the licentious hulza, as formerly, for their diversion. Th6
answer returned was, " That he had done with the ser-vice of sin and Satan, and that henceforth he should
serve the King of Heaven."
Though derided, it does not appear that he was opposed in any way, or prevented from seeking instruction; and some of the chiefs themselves, for whom
he had made sport, soon after became kindly disposed




CHAISTGE FROlM THE HEATHEN TO CHRISTIAN.  131
to the new religion, and all of them, at length, friendly
to the Mission.
In the early Journal of the Mission, we find it said
of this blind refugee from Paganism, "No one has
manifested more childlike simplicity and meekness of
heart-no one appears more uniformly humble, devout, pure, and upright. He is always at the house of
God, and there, ever at the preacher's feet. If he happens to be approaching our habitations at the time of
family worship, which has been very frequently the
case, the first note of praise, or word of prayer, which
meets his ear, produces an immediate and most observable change in his whole aspect.
" An expression of deep devotion at once overspreads
his sightless countenance, while he hastens to prostrate
himself in some corner in an attitude of reverence.
Indeed, so peculiar has the expression of his countenance sometimes been, both in public and domestic
worship, especially when he has been joining in a
hymn in his own language to the praise of the only
true God and Saviour-an expression so indicative
of peace and elevated enjoyment-that tears have
involuntarily started in our eyes at the persuasion
that, ignorant and degraded as he once has been,
he was then offering the sacrifice of a contrite
heart, and was experiencing a rich foretaste of that
joy which in the world to come will rise immeasurably high.
"H Ie is poor and despised in his person, small almost
to deformity; and in his countenance, from the loss of




132       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
sight, not prepossessing. Still, in our judgment, he
bears on him the image and superscription of Christ;
and if so, how striking an example of the truth of the
Apostle's declaration: God hath chosen the foolish
things of the world to confound the wise; and the
weak things of the world to confound the things
which are mighty; and base things of the world,
and things which are despised, hath God chosen;
yea, and things whlich are not, to bring to nought
thlings that are; that no Jiesh should glory in 7is
presence!"
After a suitable probation, and satisfaction given to
the missionaries of his preparedness, Bartimeus was
received into the church, along with one other, a female. The following is Mr. Richards' record of the
examination undergone by this blind Hawaiian, at the
time of his admission:
Question. Why do you request to be received into
the church?
Answer. Because I love Jesus Christ, and I love
you, and I desire to dwell with you in the fold of
Christ, and to join with you in eating the holy bread,
and drinking the holy wine.
Q. What is the holy bread?
Ans. It is the body of Christ, which he gave to save
Do we, then, eat the body of Christ?
No, but we eat the bread which means his
mnd as we eat bread that our bodies may not




EXAMINATION FOR THE CHURCH.       133
die, so our souls love Jesus Christ, and receive him for
their Saviour, that they may not die.
Q. What is the holy wine?
Ans. It is the blood of Christ, which he poured out
on Calvary, in Jerusalem, in the land of Judea, to save
us sinners.
Q. Do we, then, drink the blood of Christ?
Ans. No, but the wine means his blood, just as the
holy bread means his body; and all those who go to
Christ, and lean on him, will have their sins washed
away in his blood, and their souls saved forever in
heaven.
Q. Why do you think it is more suitable that you
should join the church than others?
Ans. Perhaps it is not, (hesitating.)  If it is not
proper, you must tell me. But I do greatly desire to
dwell with you in the fold of Christ. (Here he wiped
his blind eyes.)
Q. Who do you think are the proper persons to bee
received to the church?
Ans. Those who have repented of their sins, and obtained new hearts.
Q. What is a new heart?
Ans. It is one that loves God, and loves the Word
of God, and does not love sin, or sinful ways.
Q. Do you think  you  have  obtained  a new
heart?
Ans. At one time I think I have; and then I think
again, and think I have not. I do not know. God
knows. I hope I have a new heart.




134       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Q. What makes you hope that you have a new
heart?
Ans. This is the reason why I hope I have a new
heart. The heart I have now is not like the heart I
formerly had. The heart I have now is very bad. It
is unbelieving, and inclined to evil.  But it is not
like the one I formerly had. Yes, I think I have a
new heart.
These questions were said to be all new to him, and
answered from his own knowledge, without ever having committed any catechism.
Once in the church, this blind Bartimeus continued
to grow in knowledge, grace, and usefulness. He became a true yoke-fellow with the missionaries, learning
constantly at their lips, and communicating what he
learned to the people.
In the year 1829, we find it said of him, that he was beginning to recover his eyesight a little, and was making
a painful effort to learn to read. A missionary's wife at
Hilo in 1830, where Bartireus then lived as a Christian laborer, collected a few children and taught them
the elements of reading. Bartimeus at once applied
for admission to the class, but was discouraged on the
ground of his blindness, and that the school was merely
for children. His reply was, that he was a child, and
must insist upon attending. And, by literally digginy,
as it was said-for he was so dim of sight that he used
to bury his face in his book-he became able to make
out a verse in the Bible.




RPEMARKABLE STRENGTH OF MEMORY.      135
The disease in his eyes, however, suddenly assumed
such an aggravation, that he was forced to abandon his
design of becoming a Bible-reader, and to throw himself for Scripture knowledge entirely upon the resources of his tenacious memory. Every text and sermon he then heard were indelibly fixed in his mind,
and fragments of Scripture at that time being printed
in his native tongue, were made fast in his memory, word
for word, chapter and verse, by hearing them read a
few times.
"'The arrangement of Providence," says Mr. Green,
" by which lie was obliged to hide the word of God in
his heart, was a wise and benevolent arrangement; for
he never could have become so eloquent and mighty in
the Scriptures as he actually became, had he depended
upon his imperfect vision, instead of his extraordinary
memory. Still, his example at Hilo as a laborer, putting himself in the place of a little child, learning his
letters, and spelling out sentences till he could actually
read, was of incalculable value. It was to him, also, a
matter of unfeigned delight, that he had been able,
though for a short season only, to trace with his own
eyes the lines of the Book of God, which he loved more
than his daily food."
Ile labored with great assiduity and delight during
the Great Revival of 1837 and'38, when he was publicly ordained to the office of Elder. In 1840, he was
duly licensed, upon examination at Wailuku, as a minister of the Gospel in IHonuaula, where he labored with
great fidelity and acceptableness, up to the time of his




136       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
decease; returning, every few weeks, to recruit his
stores and refill his urn at the missionary granary and
well-head, where he was always welcome, at Wailuku.
I have heard Mr. Clark narrate with great interest an
account of a sermon which 3Bartimeus preached there
at a protracted meeting, when the King was present, in
the evening. His text was Jer. iv. 13: Behold, he
shall come up as clouds, and his charliots shall be as a
/whirlwind.  He seized upon the terrific image of a
whirlwind or tornado, as an emblem of the ruin which
God would bring upon his enemies. This image, said
Mr. Clark, he presented in all its majestic and awful
aspects, enforcing his remarks with such passages as
Ps. lviii. 9: He shall take them away as with a whirlwind, both living and in his wrath. Prov. i. 27: And
your destruction cometh as a whirlwind. Isa. xl. 24:
And the whirlwind shall take them away as stubble.
Jer. xxx. 23: Behold, the whirlwind of the Lord goeth
forth with fury, a continual whirlwind; it shall fall
with pain upon the head of the wicked. Hosea viii. 7:
For they have sown the wind, and they shall reap the
whirlwind.
MiIany other passages, also, he referred to, in which
the same image is presented, always quoting chapter
and verse, till the missionary was himself surprised to
find that this image is so often used by the sacred writers. And how this blind man, never having used a
Concordance or Reference Bible in his life, could, on
the spur of the moment, refer to all those texts, was lit



INSTANCE OF POWER IN PREACHING.      137
tie less than a mystery. But his mind was stored with
the precious treasure, and that in such order, that he
always had it at command.
I was never, said our informant, so forcibly impressed, as while listening to this address, with the remark
of the Apostle, Vi~oww7ng, therefore, the terror of the
lord,, we 2persuace linen; and seldom have I witnessed
a specimen of more genuine eloquence.
Near the close of his remarks, turning to the King
and his chiefs, he said, Who can withstand the fury of
the Lord, when he comes in his chariots of whirlwind?
You have heard of the cars in America propelled by
fire and steam-with what mighty speed they go, and
how they crush all in their way. So will the swift
chariots of Jehovah overwhelm all his enemies. Flee,
then, to the ark of safety! HIere (added 3M~r. Clark)
his appeal to the Kling and chiefs was bold, and
yet persuasive, and, one would have thought, irresistible.
Many more things might be told, and addresses quoted of this blind Hawaiian Preacher, over the field of
whose ministry in IIonuaula I could not ride, without
feeling that it was dignified as with the footsteps of angels, for having been the scene of the labors of this
man of God. I praised, as I passed, the compensating
sovereign grace of God, who, first choosing sc unpromising an instrument as this dwarfed and deformed outcast of humanity, from whom wisdom was at one entrance quite shut out, did so marvellously make up to
him the loss of outward sense by inward seeing. The




138         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Oxford lines, attributed, without warrant, to Milton,
might have come from him:
I am old and blind!
Men point at me as smitten by God's frown;
Afflicted and deserted of my kind,
Yet I am not cast down.
I am weak, yet strong;
I murmur not, that I no longer see;
Poor, old, and helpless, I the more belong,
Father Supreme! to Thee.
I have naught to fear:
This darkness is the shadow of thy wing;
Beneath it I am almost sacred-here
Can come no evil thing.
Visions come and go;
Shapes of resplendent beauty round me throng
From angel lips I seem to hear the flow
Of soft and holy song.
Two days and nights of continued mule-riding and
canoeing from Wailuku, through the bishopric of Mr.
Green and the Blind Preacher, have brought us, worn
and weary, to the quiet Station of Hana, East Maui,
where visitors, or caoles of any sort, seldom make their
way.  It is too inaccessible, and far from  any port, for
sailors to get to; and the way is too rough and long for
common travellers and explorers.
Yet it is a way not devoid of interest and novelty,
especially that part of it which runs from Honuaula to
Kahikinui and IKaupo; for it is a road built by the
convicts of adultery, some years ago, when the laws




REMARKABLE ROAD OVER CLINKERS.      139
relating to that and other crimes were first enacted,
under the administration of the celebrated chief Ioapili, in whom was the first example of a Christian marriage.
It is altogether the noblest and best Hawaiian work
of internal improvement I have anywhere seen. It is
carried directly over a large verdureless tract, inundated and heaved up by an eruption from the giant crater of Hale-a-ka-la; and when it is considered that it
was made by convicts, without sledge-hammers, or
crow-bars, or any other instrument but the human
hands, holding a stone, and the Hawaiian Oo, it is
worthy of great admiration. It is as great a work
for Hawaiians, as digging the Erie Canal to Americans.
A Yankee engineer, to stand on either side of that
vast field-and yet, by reason of its pits, and ravines,
and blown-up hills, and dislocations, not a field, but a
chaos of blackened lava-would be confounded and put
to his wit's end to know where to begin and carry a
road.
Were the waves of the ocean, in a tempest, when
wind and current, or the former swell, were in conflict, to be suddenly congealed to the depth of twenty
or thirty feet, and the water below to be then in a moment let off, or vanish, the bed of old Ocean would not
exhibit such a rugged, confused, and unnavigable waste
as these tracts of broken lava.
Or, as I have seen it somewhere illustrated, if the
furious rapids of a mighty river had been turned




140        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
into ink, and the cold of a winter's day at the poles
applied, and every part had become instantaneously
congealed in the position where it was just then whirling, tossing, foaming, and tumbling, while millions of
flint-like particles, shivered from the mass by the suddenness and intensity of the operation, lay scattered
about, it might perhaps present an aspect like that of
this old current fiom a volcano.
In attempting to account for it, it seems sometimes
as if a new eruption of intensely heated lava had
forced and eaten its way under a tract of solidified matter, and at length, by the expansive force of rarefied
gases, and steam, and the vast pressure at its fountain,
had suddenly burst, and up-heaved into a million fragments the great superincumbent mass. Then let there
follow an indefinite period of earthquake topplings and
convulsions, and there might be produced the phenomena exhibited.
Straight over such a tract, crime itself, under the energetic management of Hoapili, has built a commodious
road from Honolulu to IKaupo. ISike the old man in
"The Rime of the Ancient Mariner," we almost
" blessed it unawares," as our mules safely trotted or
cantered by moonlight over the path it had made.
The imaginary bridge that Sin and Death built over
Chaos for Satan,Over the foaming deep high-arched, a bridge
Of length prodigious, broad as the gate,
Deep as the roots of hell,



CONFLICT WITH THIE UKULELE.      141
is not to be compared to this real one which Sin has
wrought on Maui.
It is made by running two parallel walls about
twenty feet apart, then partially macadamizing the
space between, and covering it with grass or stubble.
For fifteen or twenty miles it runs almost like a railroad, only turning a little now and then to avoid some
gigantic boulder, or forced into a zigzag to get over
some precipitous ravine, which it would seem as if an
impetuous after-stream of devouring fire from the
mountain had ploughed and eaten through, till it
reached the sea.
We arrived at half past twelve the first night at a
village where we thought to have stayed until day;
but the kaccaainas (inhabitants) were all away, and so
we had to lay down as we were, supperless, (our man
with food having fallen behind,) upon the round-stone
floor of the meeting-house. Hard as it was, it would
have been a grateful resting-place, but for the warfare
of merciless fleas, (cukulele,) who, when they found what
we were, and what a royal supper they might make on
the blood of two haoles, set to so fiercely, that, after
many vain struggles, we were forced to enter a nqolo
contendere, and leave the honors of the field to our insatiate foes.
We decamped about three, and rode on to Nuu, in
Kaupo, where they hospitably entertained and orniilomied us, and I drowned several flying detachments of
the cukulele tribe, by a bath in the sea.
We saw there the high-chief IKealiiahonui, of Kauai,




142       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
one of the former husbands of the imperious Queen
K(aahumanu, of whom Stewart writes, as far back as
1823, that "he has a handsome face, and, in the
classic drapery of a yellow satin malo, and purple
satin kihei, he presents as perfect a model of manly
beauty as ever challenged the efforts of pencil or
chisel."
Twenty-one years have not altered his fine proportions, nor bent his noble, athletic form, although the
classic malo and kihei have given place to European
jacket and trowsers. He was there from the Island of
Kauai, to oversee the repair of a schooner of his, which,
in the drunkenness of all her company, was not long
since run upon the rocks.
Our last stage for the day was to the chief village of
Kaupo, as far as mules could go, where we supped and
dined all under one, at the house of the teacher, on a
boiled chicken. A little rain, after the setting in of
evening, made a beautiful lunar rainbow up among the
picturesque hills and mountains, so bright as to show
its parhelion, or mock-rainbow.
The kacnmaainas of this place seemed much unused to
foreigners. Several of the women were abroad with
nothing but a narrow native 2pau; around the waist.
The children of the school, upward of a hundred, were
interesting, as they always are.  Some of the little
barbarians set up a ihua for my amusement towards
evening, which was the first time I had ever seen a native dance. It consisted merely of successive jumps
with both feet at once, to a regular harsh sound from




PERILOUS SAILING. BY CANOE.      143
the lungs, and occasional slapping or drumming of the
hands upon the bare breasts and sides, together with
distortions of the countenance and gesticulations with
the arms.
At early dawn of the next day, the fierce trade,
which always blows at Kaupo, having somewhat abated, we started to go round a range of high palis (pre
cipices) by a little canoe. She took a wave, on first
launching, from stem to stern, that completely drench
ed my limbs, and was ever after receiving water ovei
the sides, that kept one of us constantly bailing. It
was only about fifteen feet long, and fifteen or sixteen
inches deep, and barely wide enough for a man to
sit in.
We had seen a man on shore, before leaving, whose
foot had recently been bitten short off a little above
the ankle by a shark at that place; and the idea of
being capsized there was by no means a comfortable
one. But through the good care of our God, we passed safely around the palis, and, by careful watching
on the part of the people where we landed, and of
our three paddlers in the canoe, we seized a time between the waves, and were paddled and drawn up
high and dry.
Having to climb a precipice, limbered per force our
nether limbs, which were somewhat stiffened after a
two hours' immersion in brine. A ride of six or seven
miles on horseback, after getting on dry apparel,
brought us safely to Hana, the former home of my
missionary travelling companion, Mr. Rice, where the




144          LIFE IN TIIE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
quiet rural beauty, freedom from dust, and grateful
verdure, invite to meditation and repose.
How appropriate and expressive is that Hy1mn of Nature by Peabody, written, perhaps, in circumstances
like those in which we are now surveying the beauties
of Creation in the Heart of the Pacific!
God of the fair and open sky!
How gloriously above us springs
The tented dome, of heavenly blue,
Suspended on the rainbow's rings!
Each brilliant star, that sparkles through,
Each gilded cloud, that wanders free
In evening's purple radiance, gives
The beauty of its praise to thee 1
God of the world! the hour must come,
And Nature's self to dust return;
Her crumbling altars must decay;
Her incense-fires shall cease to burn;
But still her grand and lovely scenes
Have made man's warmest praises flow;
AND HEARTS GROW HOLIER AS THEY TRACE
THE BEAUTY OF THE WORLD BELOW.
The mission history and statistics of this Station of
Hana may be given in a few words.  It was first taken
in 1838, by Miessrs. Ives and Conde, with their wives.
They labored under the disadvantage which the first
occupants at rainy stations have always incurred, of
having to live for several years in native grass houses;
by which, together with severe missionary labor in
schools, the health  of MIrs. Ives was so broken, that
they were compelled to remove to the dry Station of
Kealakeakua, on Hawaii.




HISTORY AND STATISTICS OF THE STATION., 145
Their first houses, also, were consumed by fire, with
a great part of their furniture and goods. Two commodious stone dwelling-houses are now erected, and
ten or twelve acres of excellent land given by government, are nearly inclosed.
To those who love to be out of the world, and who
have health and heart to devote themselves to missionary work, the location presents many attractions. And
for those who would like to visit there, a man need not
be the son of a prophet to predict a cordial reception,
pleasant society, and hospitable fare.
Mr. Rice, who was located here in 1841, to have
charge of the schools, and who has himself taught an
interesting school of boys, is removed to Punahou, to
be devoted there to the children of the mission. He
had built a fine house, which he has never occupied, and was just getting ready to labor with advantage. Rev. Mr. Whittlesey and wife have auspiciously entered into his labors; and, with a new teacher, a new religious interest has been awakened among
the people.
Mr. Conde is pastor of the native church, which
numbers five hundred members, having been organized
in 1838 with fourteen.  The walls of a new stone
meeting-house are commenced, which is to be one hundred and fifteen feet long, and forty-eight wide. Many
of the stones are from an old Aeicau. It is to be built
by the people and pastor, and by contributions from
other churches. The population of Mr. Conde's diocese (which from extreme end to end is sixty miles) is
7




146       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
about eight thousand. Seventeen hundred children are
in schools. The missionary makes among them three
or four tours a year.
The medical wants of the people are many, and to
supply them is a great tax upon the pastor. The room
where he meets the sick, and transacts business with
the natives, he turns, when necessary, into a hospital.
If an adult or child comes from a distance, that needs
to be treated medicinally, he has a bed spread for
them, and there administers proper food and medicine,
until they are well or die. It is a practice which at all
the stations might save many lives, especially of young
children.
But it would necessarily involve an outlay of time
and money that can rarely be commanded. A physician, to itinerate between Hana and Wailuku, and the
Island of Molokai, is very much needed, and could
do great good.  If the Board send out celibates,
they had better be physicians, who could go untrammelled from station to station, to assist and heal the
sick.
The physical features of this region are more like
some parts of the windward side of the great Island
of Hawaii, than any thing that is to be seen elsewhere
in the group. Cascades far up in the mountains, four
or five thousand feet, and leaping precipices at once
of eight hundred feet; numerous conical, green-sward
hills, the work of old volcanoes; gentle slopes and
copses, and woody dells; tracts of lava scarcely at all




PRODUCTIVENESS OF LAVA GROUNDS.              147
disintegrated, yet covered with a luxuriant growth of
grass, wild cane, the ki-plant,  iaukce, Ioni, and the
hala-tree, (pandanus.)
The long leaves of the latter (which is a species of
the palm, somewhat like the Palmetto of South Carolina) furnish the material for thatching; and the body of
the male tree, which is very hard, and here grows tall
and large, is used for posts.
Benignant Nature, on the windward side of these
Islands, where there is much rain, soon mantles over
the scarred path of an eruption with verdure.  Mr.
Coan told me that sweet potatoes were already growing in Puna, in the pathway of the lava of 1840; the
natives having made basins in some parts of the loose
lava, by taking out a few of the stones, putting in a little sand and grass, dropping a potato, and then covering
it with dry grass. It soon makes for itself a mold, and
shoots out its vines, and they raise* in this way the most
mealy potatoes.
These, and upland kalo and bananas, are at present
* The method of cultivating Sweet Potatoes at the Sandwich Islands may very properly give a hint to agriculturists elsewhere. It
answers more nearly to the process sometimes called mulching, than
to any other practice known in the tillage of England or America. An
American horticulturist thus describes the application of a similar process to the cultivation of gooseberries:
"The English gooseberry has always hitherto mildewed here; and I
have been familiar with bushes of the best sorts for many years, without ever being able to gather any perfect fruit.
"I have lately mulched some old bushes which had hitherto borne
this worthless fruit. I covered the surface of the ground under them




148         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLAN'DS.
the chief agricultural products of this region, although
almost any thing may be made to grow, the soil being
a comparatively recent decomposition of lava, exceedingly productive all the way up from the sea-side to the
top of the mountain, the ascent of which is here so
gradual and smoothly carpeted with green, that you can
ride on horseback quite up to the clouds.
Directly opposite the mission premises, which are
only forty or fifty rods from the sea, there rises a high
volcanic bluff four hundred and fifty feet, being the
easternmost point of Malai, called Kauwiki.  In  a
cave at its base, which I have visited, the now worldknown Queen lKaahumanu, whose portrait faces the
title of this volume, first saw the light, in a time of
war.
In one of his preaching tours through this region,
before there was a resident missionary, MIr. Armstrong
called at this spot, and, from his acquaintance with the
facts of history, he very naturally penned his meditations in these words: —" An individual is born at iana,
the very end of the earth, (for the house stood on the
very extremity of the island, and not two rods from the
water's edge,) of high, but heathen parents; brought up
from  childhood in perfect familiarity with all that is
corrupting, degrading, hardening, and darkening; cona foot deep with wet, half-rotten straw, extending this mulching as the
branches grew.
" Imagine my delight at finding the gooseberries on the bushes so
mulched ripening off finely, the fruit twice as large as I have ever seen
it before, and quite fair and free from mildew."




THE TWO EXTREMES OF HEATHENISM.      149
sequently, became one of the worst of human kindhaughty, filthy, lewd, tyrannical, cruel, wrathful, murderous, and almost every thing else that is bad. So
she lived for perhaps fifty years; and then, while sitting Queen of this nation, feared and flattered by all,
the grace of God reached her heart, and she put off the
old man, with his deeds. She reigned a few years as
a Christian, constraining the very enemies of truth to
admire her integrity, her regard for the poor, and her
wisdom as a ruler, and died in 1832, praising God and
the Lamb."
Some of her last words audible were, as translated,
thus: —" I will go to Jesus, and shall be comforted.
Lo, here am I, O Jesus:
Grant me thy gracious smile!"
Well may we say, Wonderful, wonderful, to such an
epitome of history as hers was from her cave to her
grave! In this remarkable Hawaiian Queen, and the
no less remarkable Hawaiian Preacher, we have exemplified at once the moral Heart of the Pacific, as it was
and as it is. Two things here are almost equally
strange in the Kingdom of Nature and the Kingdom
of Grace. One is, that the volcano of depravity should
ever have become extinct so entirely, and at about
the same time, in those two extreme ends of heathenism, the despot Kaahumanu, and the slave Bartimeus!
The other is, how, why, or when the belching volcano,
at the foot of which Kaahumanu was born, ceased to
burn.




50         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Eruptions of scoria, slag, cinders, and pumice, have
evidently issued from both its sides, and flowed over
in strata that are plainly marked where they are broken
off, on the side next the sea. You desceIid into one of
its craters by a winding way made by earthquake and
art in its readily yielding, disintegrated sides; and
there at the bottom is a fine covert basin of water for
bathing, with a beach of volcanic sand, defended from
the outrageous surf by a barrier of lava-rock, against
which the sea is ever thundering, and tossing over its
giant arms and briny spray.
The top of the cone, in olden time a fort, is now the
dormitory of a large flock of sheep and goats, which you
may see clambering up its sides every evening, and
scampering down in the morning. Sometimes they
get tumbled over the precipice into the crater, and are
pau loa l ka make, as the natives say, or quite used
up; that is, taught in the same way that Cowper says
he taught the viper in his Colubriad:
With outstretched hoe I slew him at the door,
And taught him never to come there no more.
In clear weather, a fine view is obtained from Hana
to the southeast, across the channel, of the broad-backed Island of Hawaii, distant about thirty miles. Its
three great pyramids, or more properly domes, of Mauna Kea on the east, Mauna Loa on the south, and Miauna Hualalai on the west, loom up magnificently in the
rising or setting sun.
We were intending to have gone across by canoe,




PROJECTED ROUTE THROUGH HALE-A-KA-LA.   151
to see again the mission family at Kohala, and thence
over to Waimea by land, to embark in a schooner
from  Kawaihae either for Lahaina or Oahu.  But the
sea is not calm enough for natives to venture, and
may not be for several weeks. We purpose, therefore,
to return to Wailuku by a route yet unexplored by
white men, through the colossal crater of Hale-a-ka-la,
or the House of the Sun.  The Palace of the Sun,
therefore, we may next enter, in order to learn what
rarities in furniture and equipage are to be found
there,
" Right against the eastern gate,
Where the great sun begins his state;
Robed in flames, and amber bright,
The clouds in thousand liveries dight."




1 52            LIFE  IN  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.
CHAPTER VII.
ADVENTURE, ESCAPE, AND  ARRIVAL AT MOLOKAI.
HE that in venturous barks hath been
A wanderer on the deep,
Can tell of many an awful scene,
Where storms forever sweep.
O God! thy name they well may praise
Who to the deep go down,
And trace the wonders of thy ways,
Where rocks and billows frown!
MRs. HIEMANS.
We embark in the double canoe-Sudden catastrophe-Men swept overboard-A
special providence-How we are saved-A traveller's hymn-Emotions of gratitude
and impulses of obedience-Behavior of the natives-Effect of familiarity with
danger-Remark of Butler-The psalm of life-The fatal sequel of another disaster-Conflict with the sharks-They win the day-The raft rises-Few escape-We
gain the reef-Lagoons for fish-How to make abstract nulnbers concrete-Reefs
described-Spiritual analogies and lessons derived-Rules for the navigator-The
Divine Pilot-Ocean of futurity-Site of the Molokai Mission-Head-quarters of
Aolus-A missionary's grapery-The two vineyards, natural and moral —Division of
labor-Church and school-Industrial enterprise-The maids of Molokai —Native
costume versus the foreign-Court fashion and rules of dress-The queen's way of
conformity-Criticism on the fashionable habiliments of the sex —Honest remonstrance and satire by Dana.
A CHANGE ill my route little expected, finds me at
another island, seventy miles by canoe from Hana, instead of ranging through the crater of KIale-a-ka-la.
To Him, whose unseen mighty arm defends and upholds us, when we can take no care of ourselves, be
all the praise that our grave has not been made upon
the  coral  bottom   of the  deep, between   Ilolokai  and
DRa~fli.




SUDDEN CATASTROPHE-MEN OVERBOARD.   153
We left Hana about half past seven in the morning,
with nine men, in the large double-canoe belonging to
the Molokai missionary station. The wind was very
strong, nearly aft, and the canoes light, so that with
main-sail, and a kind of fore-stay-sail, we shot around
the windward side of East Maui with great swiftness,
admiring the numerous cascades that leap into the
ocean from those precipitous lava cliffs.
When, however, we had encompassed the island to
the point of departure for Molokai, and were about
one-third of the way across the channel, or six miles
from land on either side, so tremendous a wave and
gust of wind struck our canoes as nearly to capsize
them, throwing the windward canoe almost out of water, and the leeward under, and instantly carrying
three men overboard from my side.
Though the waves had been all along very high, and
frequently breaking over the forward part of the canoes, so as to keep the men bailing, yet, from confidence in the skill of the natives, I did not apprehend
much danger; and, having been very sea-sick, was
dozing at the moment of the disaster, one hand being
made fast to a rope and the frame-work of a mat-screen
that was put up against the wind, the other arm around
my life-preserver.
Alarmed by the shock and cry of the natives, and
a dash of salt water, I opened my eyes upon the scene
of disaster just as the men were rolling off before me
into the billowy deep. I have seldom or never looked
danger so full in the face7*




154        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Danger, whose limbs of giant mould
What mortal eye can fixed behold?
By instinctively catching with my loose hand to the
plank that constitutes the raised platform between the
canoes, the life-preserver slipped from me after the
men, but I was enabled to hold on till the canoes
nearly regained their equilibrium, in the trough of the
towering wave. It was unaccountable, except on the
ground of that Special Providence which Scripture
and experience unite in proving, that we were not irrecoverably swamped and lost, and our canoes torn asunder. Our deliverance surely was not owing to the bubMle that bore us, for its thin sides would have burst but
for the bands of the Almighty, and left us helpless
To sink into the depths with bubblinggroan,
Without a grave, unknelled, uncoffined, and unknown.
But, in God's goodness, something better was before
us. Our men quickly rallied from the first stunning of
surprise and terror; the wrinkled and bronzed old native, our captain, acquitted himself nobly after his first
fearful AUWE, a howl of lamentation and terror peculiar
to Hawaiians, which no one that has once heard ever
forgets. Little as I could say to them in their own
tongue, that little was cheering, and my hands I could
use for bailing.
Sails and mast were soon taken down; the canoe,
sunk nearly to the water's edge, was hove-to and lightened of its load of water, and two of the missing




PROVIDENTIAL ESCAPE-NATIVES' GRATITUDE. 155
men soon got aboard, through their matchless skill
in swimming. But we had gone so far to leeward of one of them, that it was good part of an
hour before we could work up to him against the
heavy sea.
At length, however, the men tied all the rope in the
canoe to one of the light wili-wili rollers, and one of
them launched out with it to meet the struggling
swimmer; and they were soon both safe aboard, exclaiming upon the pomaikai o ke aktua (the goodness of
God) in their deliverance. In fifteen or twenty minutes
more, the life-preserver was recovered, and a book
which I had supposed lost, was found in the bosom of
one of the men that had been overboard, he having
caught and kept it there all the while he had been in
the water. I shall keep it as a prized memorial of this
narrow escape.
The canoe being got under way again with diminished canvas, two hours more of anxious sailing, with a
boisterous wind and heavy sea, brought us to an opening
in the coral reef which extends along the inward side
of the island; and I breathed more freely as we ran
through the surf, and swept into comparatively still
water, where we ran before the wind again for ten miles
with great velocity, till we reached the station, gladly
greeted by friends that had been feeling no little anxiety on our behalf.
It was only He who commrcandeth and lifteth the
storlny waves, who holdeth the w'inrd it  htisifsts, who
measureth the waters in the hollow of his hand, that




156         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
brought us through peril to dry land, in those frail hollowed logs.'Tis to His power we owe our breath,
And all our near escapes from death.
I never repeated those lines of Addison and Wesley
with more significancyWhen by the dreadful tempest borne,
High on the broken wave;
They know Thou art not slow to hear,
Nor impotent to save.
When passing through the watery deep,
I ask in faith His promised aid,
The waves an awful distance keep,
And shrink from my devoted head.
Since Thou hast bid me come to thee,
Good as Thou art, and strong to save;
I'll walk o'er life's tempestuous sea,
Upborne by the unyielding wave.
Dauntless, though rocks of pride be near,
And yawning whirlpools of despair.
To sing rightly " The Traveller's IHymn," one needs
to have met with "hair-breadth escapes by flood and
field," to have seen the kind interpositions of Providence, and to have felt underneath him in peril the
arm of Omnipotence. We meet with a thousand deliverances that we never know of, from straits and
perils that we do not see, both in our natural life, and
in the moral and religious life of our souls as pilgrims
through a world of shipwrecks, temptations, pit-falls,
and  snares.  What watchful, recollective pilgrim  is
there, that in the observance of providences, and the




LESSONS TO BE LEARNED FROM DANGER.    157
habitual review of life, is not often singing with thankfulness and grace in his heart,A thousand deaths I daily'scape,
I pass by many a pit;
I sail by many dreadful rocks,
Where others have been split.
Whilst others in God's prisons lie,
Bound with affliction's chains,
I walk at large, secure and free
From sickness and from pains.
One such preservation from palpable peril as that
we have now experienced, makes the full heart feel
deeply God's goodness, and if not sadly hardened, or
far out of the way, to gush with unusual emotions of
gratitude and impulses of obedience.
It is good for a Christian, or any man, to be arrested
and made thoughtful by such exposures and providential deliverances, that he may consider his latter end,
and the measure of his days, what it is, to know
how frail I am, and to ask himself, Am  I ready for
the surprise of death? Out of sight, it is too apt with
us to be out of mind; and a man needs to be often
met with startling providences, in order to make him
realize his own exposedness, and to enforce the practical necessity of being ready; for let death once come,
and,
Ready or not ready-no delay;
Forth to his Judge's bar he must away.
And yet it is a melancholy fact, account for it as we




158        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
may, that familiarity with danger and death seldom
produces a softening, monitory effect, except upon the
mind of a Christian, but rather induces a moral hardiness and effrontery, that steels the mind against lessons
of mortality, and casts an ominous gloom  upon the
prospects of the soul.
There is a remark of Butler in the "Analogy," which
I have never seen exemplified except in the case of
those, whose habits have been formed as the children of
God. It is this-that at the same time our own exposure to danger, and the daily instances of men's dying
around us, give us daily a less sensible passive feeling
or apprehension of of or own mnortality, such instances
greatly contribute to the strengthening a practical regard for it in serious minds; that is, to forming a habit
of acting with a constant view to it.
Let me never get so obtusely used to danger and
death, as not to mind it; but may I always live looking
upward and recollective,
"As ever in my great Task-master's eye;"
calmly self-possessed and ready, through faith in my
Lord, for his summons, whether it shall come in sunshine or storm, in a form grateful or appalling to the
natural man. Death will then have no sting, the
grave no victory. And a sepulchre in the sea, till the
sea give up its dead, will be as safe and easy, as to die
among kindred, and lie peacefully under the sod, till
the morning of the resurrection.
A true poet has interpreted, in the Psalm  of Life,




SAD STORY OF ANOTHER DISASTER.           159
what the heart of the young man said to the Psalmist,
and what is often brought to remembrance by the escapes and vicissitudes of our mortal pilgrimage:
And thou, too, whosoe'r thou art,
That readest this brief psalm,
As one by one thy hopes depart,
Be resolute and calm.
O fear not in a world like this,
And thou shalt know ere longKnow how sublime a thing it is
To suffer and be strong.
Let me, then, be up and doing
With a heart for any fate;
Still achieving, still pursuing,
Learn to labor and to wait.
The channel we have crossed, and all the passages
between these Islands, are often the scene of disasters
in  native  canoes.  A  Frenchman  attached  to  the
French sloop of war Bonite, on a visit to this Archipelago in 1836, tells the following story, which we have
heard for substance also from a missionary:
One day, a native, accompanied by his wife and two
small children, put off in a canoe from the northern
point of Lanai, with the design of landing on the
southern part of Molokai, a distance of seven or eight
leagues.  When he had put to sea the weather was
fine; but suddenly a dark cloud blackened the sky, a
gale commenced, and the sea became very rough. For
a long time the skill with which the Islander guided
his frail skiff in the midst of the waves preserved it




160       LIFE IN TLilhe SANIJ)'WIC"L. ISLANDS.
from being wrecked; but at length a sea broke the outrigger, and the canoe capsized.
The children were too young to be able to swim.
He seized them at the moment when the sea was about
to swallow them up, and placed them upon the canoe,
which, being made of light wood, floated, although
bottom up. Then he and his wife, swimming at its
side, undertook to urge it along to the nearest shore;
they being then near the middle of the channel.
After many hours of fatiguing exertion, and when
they had almost reached the shore, they met a very
strong current, which urged them back into the open
sea. To struggle against the force of the current would
have been to expose themselves to certain death; they
therefore decided to direct their canoe towards another
part of the island. Yet the night came on, and they
began to feel cold.
The woman was the first to complain of fatigue; but
the desire so natural to escape death, and the sight of
her children, whose life depended upon the preservation of her own, gave her courage, and she continued
to swim near her husband, pushing the canoe before
them. Soon the poor children became fatigued; for
they could not long cling to the round and polished
surface of the canoe without a continued effort, and
they were also chilled with cold. At length they relinquished their hold, and fell, one after the other, into
the sea.
Their parents seized them and placed them again
upon the canoe, striving, at the same time, to encour



PARENTTAL LOVE —AFFECTIN(G SSUE.    161
age them. But their little hands could no longer retain their grasp, and the sea engulfed them for the
third time. It was no longer necessary to think of
preserving the canoe; the parents, therefore, took the
children upon their backs and swam towards the land,
which was scarcely visible in the darkness.
An hour later, the woman discovered that the child
which she was carrying was dead, and she broke forth
into bitter lamentations. In vain did her husband persuade her to abandon the child and to take courage,
pointing out to heri the shore, which now seemed near.
The unhappy mother would not separate from her lifeless child, and she continued to carry her precious burden until she felt her strength nearly exhausted, when
she told her husband that she must die, for she could
swim no further; yet, notwithstanding her husband's
earnest entreaties, she would not relinquish her burden.
He then endeavored to sustain her with one hand
and to swim with the other; but nature -could not prolong the struggle, and she disappeared beneath the
waves. The husband continued to swim on in sadness, the desire to save his surviving child alone keeping him up. At length, after many hours of unspeakable hardship, and when almost dead himself; he
reached the shore. ]But it was only to fall senseless
upon the sand, when he discovered that the darling
boy on his back was dead.
In this condition he was discovered at daybreak by
some fishermen, lying on the sand. By their atten



162       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
tions he revived, but died soon after from grief and
suffering, having been in the water eighteen hours.
It was only a few years ago, in a part of Polynesia
further south than these Islands, that a company of
chiefs and people, thirty-two in number, were passing
from one island to another, in a large double-canoe like
that in which we have just escaped such peril. They,
too, were overtaken by a wind, the violence of which
tore their canoes from the horizontal or curved spars
by which it will be remembered, in our previous description* of a double-canoe, that I have said they are
united. It was in vain to endeavor to right them or
empty out the water, for, without out-riggers, they
could not prevent their incessant overturning.
As their only resource, therefore, they collected the
scattered spars and boards, and, with the help of cord
taken from the wreck, they constructed a raft, on which
it was barely hoped they might drift to land. The
weight of the whole number, however, who were collected on the raft or hanging to it, was now so great as
to sink it below the surface, so that those upon it often
stood above their knees in water. Hence of course
they made little progress towards land, and they soon
became exhausted with fatigue and hunger.
In tlhis defenceless condition they were attacked by
a number of prowling sharks. One after another was
seized and devoured by the rapacious monsters, or
* Island World of the Pacific, p. 248.




THE FISH-PONDS OF MOLOKAI.         163
pulled away by them, until three or four only remained; and the raft, lightened of its load, rose to the surface of the water, and put them beyond the reach of
the terrible jaws of their destroyers. Delivered thus
from the sharks, the few that survived were providentially carried ashore by the current and tide, to tell of
the dreadful deaths of their fellow-voyagers.
Ourselves happily saved from such a conflict, and no
lives lost in our disaster, we have been circumnavigating the Island of Molokai, and with comparative safety, on the reef; observing how the coast is all along
lined with immense fish-ponds of salt water, to the extent of twenty-five or thirty miles. These are made by
merely walling-in many acres of the coral reef on the
seaward side, and then stocking them with spawn and
little fish.
Beyond these the reef extends still half a mile or
more, with its shallow whitened water, and then there
is a crest of foaming breakers, made by the impetuous
waves striking upon the outside of the reef. Beyond,
the white caps foam and glisten all the way across the
boisterous channel, ten miles wide, to Maui; which you
must pass in a frail canoe, in order to get again into the
range of the world.
The lagoons for fish were made under the despotism
of ancient times, and are capable of affording a very
great supply. When Rev. Lorrin Andrews was teaching arithmetic to the first class at Lahainaluna, there
was one man studying the notation table rather bright



164       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
er than the rest, and of a practical turn, who could not
see, for the life of him, what was the use of such high
numnbers, over a hundred thousand or million. Up to
this he could get along very well, making them in
some way concrete.
But one day, as he was reckoning units, tens, hundreds, thousands, &c., "Stop," said he, "I've got it: it
will do for the head-man of iMIolokai to reckon his fish
by." His millions had become concrete, and notation
was ever after as plain sailing as through the smooth
water on the reef of his native Molokai.
This reef has furnished me an instructive analogy,
which I cannot forbear presenting. When we stand
upon the shore, on a level with the reef, and look far
away seaward, over the water with which it is covered
like a vast lagoon, we cannot tell what are its dimensions or limits, where there is deep water or where it is
shoal. But when we climb one of the steep mountainsides, and look down from that commanding elevation
upon the wide reef, and the still wider boundless ocean
all around, it is then that we can see clearly where the
reef begins and where it ends; where the surf breaks,
and where the blue sea-line begins; and we can distinguish even the different hues of separate fields of coral, and the outline thereof below the surface, through
the different shades of the water in which it is
all hid.
Just so, in a whale-ship at sea, the man at the maintop-mast head is always the first to discover when the
ship is entering shoal water, from a change in the color




NATURAL AND SPIRITUAL ANALOGIES.    165
or shade of the all-surrounding fluid, only discoverable
at first from that great height.
And in illustration of the same it may be added, that
once, on a calm, clear day, when at a point twelve hundred feet above the level of the Mediterranean Sea, on
the top of the Rock of Gibraltar, I recollect to have
seen at its base some Genoese fishermen dragging their
nets, and exposing their persons in the water, all unaware of the dangerous vicinity of three huge prowling sharks, which could be seen with wonderful clearness through our spy-glass, swimming around the rocks
underneath, and seeming to us every moment as if
they would dart up and seize the unsuspecting fishermen.
_Now the spiritual lesson we have learned from all
is this: that, in order to have a just view of the trials,
and temptations, and perils of probation; of the points
of safety and of danger, and the limits of each, and the
lines where they meet, and the gracious providences
that are ever stepping between us and destruction, we
tmust stand on the eminence of 2Mount Zion above.
From the top of some commanding cliff in Eternity
we must be able to look backward over the troubled
sea of this life, and onward upon the calm ocean of
Eternity into which it has passed, before we can judge
justly of its hardships and encounters, and the Divine
meaning of them, or perceive the greatness and goodness of our often miraculous deliverances, or estimate
aright the skill and wisdom of the Divine providential
Pilot that never quits our helm.




166       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Must we not, then, quietly leave the management of
these precious barks of immortality to infinite Wisdom
and Love, navigating through faith alone, by quicksand and breakers? What else, indeed, can we do,
when the Unknown Future to which we are bound, is to
all men what the Equatorial Coast of the Brazils is to
the mariner, who makes his land-fall just at night, in
the rain and howling wind, and sees the dense clouds
gathering heavier and blacker, and the lurid lightnings
flashing with louder thunder over those vast regions
dimly before him, somewhere in the deep shades of
which he is to find a port?
We must wait till the morning of the resurrection
for the clouds to clear away and the sun to shine, sailing, meanwhile, by faith's chronometer, just as that
navigator must lay-to and stand off, or go sounding on
his dim and perilous way by lead and line, till the
night and storm are past, and sunlight opens to him
the glories of Nature in the tropics, even as the resurrection dawn will to the faithful soul the glories of
Eternity.
That glorious but now unknown world of the future,
along with its other revelations, will disclose the good
that is now doing by the Missionary Station planted at
Molokai. It is very near the sea, on the level land between the shore and the mountains. This interval of
arable land is from one-quarter to half a mile wide.
Valleys that might be made fertile, run up further between the hills, in one of which a better site than the
present was chosen, and buildings commenced. But




STRENGTH OF THE MOLOKAI TRADE-WINDS.  167
they were torn down by a creature of Governor Adams,
to whom the land belonged. It would have been far
preferable to the present spot, as further removed from,
and yet giving a much finer view of, the sea, and as
being partially screened, also, by the hill-side from violent blasts.
If Hawaiian mythology had had a god of the winds,
his excellency would certainly have been assigned to
IMolokai, where the trades could have rocked him from
New Year's morn to Christmas eve. He must have
had his table in some one of those huge holes to windward, or he could hardly eat the meat of his sacrifices
before it would have been blown out of his teeth.
The trades rush by here as if they had just broke
prison from the cave of tEolus, and were flying away
at the top of their speed, afraid of being caught.
For a man to keep his breath, or his hat on, in riding
against them, he must have a long wind and little
head; two conditions that so seldom meet in the same
person, that most who come here at first lose both.
And it is well if their patience does not go, too,
in waiting, wind-bound, a time to get away. Pleasant society and hospitable fare will, however, generally prove a good antidote and hold-fast to the
latter.
Notwithstanding the uniformly high winds, Rev. Mlr.
Hitchcock, one of the missionaries, has succeeded in
training a fine grapery, by erecting a high screen towards the northeast. WVe are now luxuriating on the




168        LIFE  IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
delicious firuit, whose flavor is almost equal to the utvas
of Andalusia. Wine is made fromn it to supply the
communion-table; or, rather, an unfermented syrup,
which, diluted with water, forms a more fitting element for the Supper than either alcoholic wine or simple water.
The number of communicants here is somewhat over
six hundred, in a population roughly estimated at about
five thousand. They have the best-made meeting-house
(excepting the Bingham stone church in Honolulu) that
I have seen in Hawaii-nei. The material is stone, three
long windows in each of the two sides, doors in the
two ends and side facing the sea, a gallery in the end
opposite to the neatly made pulpit, for the choir, with
two small windows for light and ventilation.
The walls are one hundred feet long, fifty wide, and
eighteen high to the ceiling. The roof is of thatch,
and in the old Dutch style, thus saving gable-ends,
which it is not easy here to make secure, and at the same
time look well, of stone.
In the process of building it, the people have contributed five hundred dollars in cash, besides getting
the timber from the mountain, procuring and burning
the lime, plastering the walls, and putting on the
roof.
In June of 1850, there was acknowledged from the
IMolokai church,* by the Treasurer of the American
* The entire contributions on the Island of Molokai, for the year
1850, are as follows:



CONTRIBUTIONS OF THE MOLOKAI CHURCH.                  169
Board, the suni of five hundred and seventeen dollars
and fifty cents, to constitute several persons in America
Support of Pastor................................. $420 00
Kohala Meeting-house....................................... 102 00
Monthly Concert................................   501 50
French Protestant Missions....................      23 00
Relief of the Poor....................  40 00
Church-bell at Kalaupapa............................  166 00
Repairing Meeting-house........................     120 00
Materials and Labor, at cash............................... 400 00
Repairing Pastor's HIouse.................................. 25 00
$1,797 50
Here is a lesson in liberality that deserves to be studied. It will assist in doing this, to know that the population of the island is less than
3500, and to call to mind how few years it is since they began to
emerge from the deep poverty of barbarism.  Look now at the various items. Consider especially that noble one for rebuilding the prostrate house of worship at Kohala, and also the avails of the monthly
concert.  Here are respects in which we may bring ourselves into
comparison with them; for the appeal in behalf of that afflicted church
reached us, and what we gave the last year at the concert is also on
record. But let us not content ourselves with mere admiration of their
"good works," but, "provoked by their zeal," let us " sow bountifully,"
that He who "loveth a cheerful giver" may in turn "'i make all grace
abound towards us."
The whole amount of contributions at all the Islands for the year
1850, is $7213.14. This includes $237 for the French Protestant Mission. The most of it given from "their deep poverty."  Truly, "the
grace of God bestowed on them" has "abounded unto the riches of
their liberality."  See how expansive is their benevolence; how heartily they responded to that appeal from France, thu- showing their
ability to distinguish between the nation that would crush them, and
those in that nation who were one with them in Christ; yet not the
less giving an example of a noble superiority to national prejudices.
At the same time, let it be observed that they do not forget to "provide for their own;" and that they open their hand liberally to assist
their pastors in the calamities that befall them.-,Journal of Missiozs,
March, 1851.
8




170         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
and the Sandwich Islands members of the American
Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions.
The congregation here is ordinarily five or six hundred, well dressed and decorous in behavior, seated
generally on rude settees. The most interesting and
hopeful part of the congregation are, as always, the
children and youth, of whom the proportion here is
probably greater than in any other field in these Islands. There are twelve hundred in the day-schools,
and all of them are required to be present at the Sabbath-schools.
At the Station are three different classes on the Sabbath, in the Ai o ca la, or Daily Food: children in the
morning, adults at noon, and a class of unmarried
young persons just before the sermon in the afternoon.
The singing of the native choir is very respectable,
without any help from the pastor, being trained by a
graduate from Lahainaluna.
The resident missionaries are called invalids, but
they perform an amount of labor (at least the pastor)
in preaching, pastoral care, and supervision of schools,
that would be deemed quite enough for robust well
men at home.
Miss Brown has a school of eight or ten girls, whom
she is teaching to card and spin cotton, and to weave
and knit.* It is hoped they will learn by it a habit of
X The common schools of Molokai have been generally organized after an industrial plan, for purposes of utility, and to instil the principles
and habits of industry in Hawaiian youth; and the following is the
substance of their report for 1850, which may exemplify what is doing




RELATIVE INTELLIGENCE OF HAWAIIAN FEMALES.  171
industry, and a fondness for work, so as not to be willing hereafter to loll and to loun'ge, like most Hawaiian women, who, in civilization, intelligence, and
all the proprieties of social life, are far below the
men.
When you see a company of young Hawaiian girls,
from ten to fourteen, with bright, sparkling eyes, faces
by practical working missionaries, in the line of educational and social
improvement at the Heart of the Pacific:
The schools are divided into male and female departments. The female department meets in the morning for regular school at half past
eight, and continue at their books till half past eleven. At twelve the
male department meets for the same purpose, and continue at their
studies till three P. M. During the afternoon, the girls, under lunas
chosen by themselves, engage in light suitable work for those who wish
to employ them, and at prices agreed upon between the lunas and the
employer.
This money is kept by said luna till the end of the quarter, and then
equally divided among the niembers composing the division.
The males, on the contrary, begin work at daylight and work till about
eleven, when the first bell rings for them to prepare for school. This
plan has now been in operation several years, and, it is thought, with
excellent results.
On Molokai are 929 scholars in all; from these deduct for Ca tholic
scholars, who do not generally have a working department, 76, leaves
the number 853. These 853 scholars have, during the year 1850, received for their labor the nice sum, in cash, of $1556.561.
Of this sum, the station school at Kaluaaha has earned $490.25.
This is exclusive of sums earned by the scholars in their own time after
three P. M.
The number of scholars at Kaluaaha is 206, making the average earning of each child in the school $2.38; but if we take from that number
the 60 or 70 scholars who are too small to work, we shall find that each
working scholar has really earned over $3.25.
The 76 Roman Catholic scholars have only reported $9.50 as the proceeds of their labors.




172       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
full of sportiveness and glee, and their forms expanding like rose-buds, You wish they might always look so,
and you think what a pity it is they should ever become
the gross, sensual creatures that so many of them turn
into in a few years.
There is needed at every station, to operate upon
Hawaiian females, a school like MIrs. Coan's at Hilo,
or the Female Seminary at WVailuku: to teach them
notions of propriety, to form habits of industry, and
to make them suitable as wives and mothers. Multiply such schools, and they would do incomparably
more than all the silly orders of the Cabinet and King
for the ladies to appear only in tight dresses and corsets.
On the score of modesty alone, to say nothing of its
economy and comfort, the present dress of Hawaiian females, something like a lady's loose mlorning-gown, is
both decorous and comely. The hasty rage which some
foreigners seem to have at once to Europeanize and
make court-like the Hawaiian government and dress,
is, we cannot help saying, alike unwise and ridiculous.
If it does not swamp the nation, annihilate whatever is
distinctively Hawaiian, and give paramount ruinous ascendency to foreign interests and influence, it will be
strange.
It is said the Queen was once disciplined in the
church for drinking awa. But she alleged, on trial,
that she was drinking it to reduce her portly person
to the fit of the tight dress prescribed by the tyranny
of court-fashion,




THE MODERN HIABILIMENTS OF WOM AN.             173.
Now  we say, give  strait-jackets to  maniacs, and
leave corsets and small-clothes to the rouged harlots
of the Opera; but for the women of Hawaii, both
modesty and taste would be less offended to have
them resume something like the old heathen costume
of the pau and kcihei, than to be squeezed into the garb
of Paris belles.
The highest authority in America for taste and purity in all that appertains to woman-to woman as she
is and woman as she should be-has said of the fashionable modern habiliments of the sex,Your dress has made the form by nature given,
Unlike aught ever seen in earth or heaven.
Where, girl, thy flowing motion, easy sweep,
Like waves that swing, nor break the glassy deep 
All hard, and angular, and cased in steel!
And is it human? Can it breathe and feel 
The bosom, beautiful of mould, alas!
Where, now, thy pillow, youth? (But let it pass.)
And shapes in freedom lovely?-I will bear
Distorted forms, leave minds but free and fair.'Tis all alike conventional: the mind
Is tortured like the body, cramped, confined:
A thing made up, by rules of art, for life;
Most perfect, when with nature most at strife:
Till the strife ceases, and the thing of art,
Forgetting nature, no more plays a part;
Sees truth in the factitious;-pleasure's slaveIts drudge, not lord; in trifles only grave.
With etiquette for virtue, heart subdued,
The right betraying, lest you should be rude;
Excusing wrong, lest you be thought precise,
In morals easy, and -in manners nice;
To keep in with the world your only end,
And with the world to censure or defend;




174          LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
To bend to it each passion, thought, desire;
With it genteelly cold, or all on fire,
What have you left to call your own, I pray?
You ask, What says the world, and that obey;
Where singularity alone is sin,
Live uncondemned, yet prostrate all within.
You educate the manners, not the heart,
And morals make good breeding and an art.
R. H. DANA.
Sandwich Islands Double Canoe.




THE MOLOKAI GARDENS OF CORAL.                          175
CHAPTER VIII.
THE CORAL MASONRY AND CORALS OF MOLOKAI AND OTHER
PARTS OF THE ISLAND WORLD OF THE PACIFIC.
" THERE, in the furthest deserts of the Deep,
The coral worm its architecture vast
Uprears, and new-made islands have their birth."
Culions work of Zoophytes-Sub-marine gardens described-Living specimens exhibited-Letting a crab out of prison-How the corals grow-Theory for the formation of a coral island-The tumuli of a buried continent-Evidence of a re-elevatory
process-Geological phenomena not accounted for-Observations of Williams, the
martyr of Eromanga-Effect of electricity in precipitating the particles of lime in
sea-water-Instances adduced-The part it may have in the formation of reefs-=
Views of Sir David Brewster examined-Mixture of fancy and fact-Experiments of
Peyronnel-Philosophical analysis-Secrets of Nature's laboratory-Results of coral
architecture-Astonishing amount of matter solidified-Observations of Captain
Flinders-Conditions necessary to the perfection of coral-The coral builders watched
-Work described-Banks reared-World-matter-Half-way Island-Coral formations of Rimatara-Honolulu reef-Mediterranean and Red Sea coral-Rate of
growth-Effect of light-Agents that reduce it-Indian Ocean coral-Appearance of
a reef between the tides-Millions of worms observed-Facts gathered from navigators-Coral of prose and of poetry-Moss corals by the microscope-Zoophytic
tribes classified by the Geologist of the U. S. Exploring Squadron-Scientific deductions-Fejee Island reefs described-Vast size of individual specimens-Notices of
the Kingsmill group-Vast depth of soundings off the reef —Uses of coral-Natural
and aesthetic ends served.
THE  island'of Molokai is  well worth  a  traveller's
visiting, despite the risk of crossing that boisterous
channel, for the curious and beautiful corals he may get
there, and the near view he may have of the living
coral-beds, in all their sub-marine luxuriancy. You
may go out upon the reef in a canoe, and sail over the
gay gardens, and in only a foot or two of water, may




176        LIFE IN THE SANDWVICII ISLAN'DS.
gather some of the most exquisite specimens of marine
animalculic vegetation ever seen.
The kinds, too, are uncommonly unique and various.
In one mass, and disengaged at a single reach and effort
of the arm, there will sometimes be five or six different
species of this wonderful formation cemented together.
The colors are. various, and sometimes exquisite.
Now and then you can point out a piece to a native,
and he will bring it up all blushing with purple or blue,
which you would give any thing to preserve in a cabinet with that delicate Tyrian tint. Sometimes it is like
colored confectionery crystallized, with all the hues of
the rainbow. But the tints of sunset clouds are not
more fading and evanescent than the rosy blush of
those beautiful sea-flowers, when once plucked from
their aqueous bed.
It is only the coralline forms, or the different ways
in which those ingenious little architects make their
coral groves to grow, that can be preserved. And then
those little radiations and branches are so brittle, and
the microscopic finish of the crystalline structure is
sometimes so nice, that in washing off the extraneous
matters, and packing them up for friends at home, you
are almost sure to break and mar the most perfect
specimens.
It is very curious to observe how a family of corals
will grow together and intermarry, till you can trace
the pedigree from sire to son, through a coral ancestry
for many generations. There is a species which the
natives call ana, of which one of the missionary boys




REMARKABLE SPECIMENS DESCRIBED.     177
here has a rare specimen to send to one of his brothers
in America.
The cna grows somewhat like the head of a mushroom, on a flower-stalk put forth from the parent stock.
If you call it a flower, its petals are innumerable white
scales, growing erect, and separate each from its bed
like the seeds of a sun-flower. These are of all sizes,
from that of a button to the crown of a hat. The specimen referred to is a family tree, the trunk bearing its
infant and youthful sprigs, of appropriate sizes through
adolescence to maturity, when some of the adult anas
are having little miniature grandsons of the third generation.
The theory which avers that corals do not grow vigorously in less water than two or three fathoms, is quite
disproved by the growth at lMolokai. We have seen
and collected some fine living specimens, where the
water was not more than two feet deep, and where the
reef must be sometimes laid bare in low water.
In a specimen obtained by Mr. Andrews, only a few
days ago, there was found snugly inclosed in one of the
cups formed by the little branches locking in with each
other like locked hands, an interloping crab. There he
was, nicely caught and encased by the growing coral,
as between the palms of two locked hands, precisely as
toads are sometimes found in rocks, or the solid heart
of trees. How long he had been imprisoned there by
the'busy little builders upon those immense reefs, we
could not tell; but the boys thought it must have been
8*




178        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
in some Rip Van Winkle sleep, if such things ever
happen in the life of crabs.
Coral is most abundant on the leeward of the Islands,
and the larger reefs are only found there. It is said to
be ascertained by observation, that a uniform temperature of at least seventy-six degrees is most favorable to
their growth. The great thickness of the reefs is supposed to be caused by the gradual and long-continued
subsidence of the original shelf of coral, while the surface is maint-mined at the same level as at first by the
unceasing additions made by the polypes.
According to this theory, the islands of Polynesia
once formed a vast equatorial continent, which, through
volcanic agency as its probable cause, has subsided,
and left the present islands as grave-stones to commemorate its former existence.
Be this as it may, besides the overflow from volcanic
eruptious, a re-elevatory process must have been going
on for ages in the islands of Hawaii, in order to account
for the existence of well-defined coral, on this island of
Molokai, for instance, five hundred feet above the present level of the sea.
The same has been found, also, according to Mr.
Andrews, on Maui; and natives say that on one of the
mountains of Kauai, four thousand feet above the sea,
there is a bed of coral and coral sand, and in it a spring
of water.
On the road from Lahaina to Wailuku, there is lava
three or four hundred feet above the sea, covered with
a deposit of lime from one-eighth to half an inch in




PECULIAR FORMATIONS NOT ACCOUNTED FOR. 179
thickness, as if made by successive coats of whitewash,
precisely as I have frequently seen stones at the seaside coated with carbonate of lime, which is, undoubtedly, a precipitate from the sea-water.
In ravines, and on the sides of precipices where the
strata of successive volcanic eruptions are broken off,
there is often to be found a perpendicular vein of carbonate of lime, that seems to have run into fissures, or
to have been deposited there when in a state of solution,
from what source it is not easy to tell. That it is lime
cannot be doubted, for I have frequently seen it effervesce at pouring on sulphuric acid. There is also, on
this island, one thousand feet above the sea, a locality
of a mineral, very like to white flint, and which one
might suppose to be crystallized coral, though it will
not effervesce with the strongest acids.
While on the subject of corals, it is in place to mention an inference which Williams makes in his Missionary Enterprises, in regard to the formation of corals,
from the fact of their being carbonate of lime always in
solution with salt water. His remarks are, that, "as
corals are carbonate of lime, and as they are found to
exist only in warm climates, where, by the process of
evaporation, there is abundance of materials supplied
for these insects to build with, instead of secreting the
substance, or producing it in any other way, they are
merely the wonderful architects which nature employs
to mould and fashion the material into the various and
beautiful forms which the God of nature designed it




180        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
should assume. In the Museum at Liverpool, among
the specimens of coral, there is a branching piece of
coral which is a calcareous crystal, formed in the
evaporating house of the salt-works of the King of
Prussia."
So, in regard to sea-shells, instead of saying that the
animals secrete the calcareous coverings which they
inhabit, he thinks that they emit or secrete a gluten, to
which the calcareous particles adhere, and thus form
the shell. Let there be a chemical precipitation of the
minute calcareous particles floating in sea-water by any
means, and there might be formed a reef; agreeably to
the experiment, in which the passing of a stream of
electric fluid through water having calcareous and silicious particles in solution, produces stones.
The lightning of tropical regions, and the electric
fluid engendered by sub-marine and other volcanoes
which abound in the South Seas, may thus produce an
effect adequate to the formation of those wonderful and
invaluable structures. This is a much more rational
theory to account for the existence of the immense coral
reefs and coral islands of the Pacific, than that alluded
to above, which supposes them wholly the work of saxigenous polypes or lithophytes.
The so-called saxigenous, or rock-making polype,
builds 29pon the reefs, and cements his singular treeimitating structures to them; but this agency, we cannot but think, is altogether inadequate to the formation
of immense islands. The more solid and compact texture of the coral rock, often stratified, would also lead




PROCESS OF CONSTRUCTING A CORAL REEF.   181
one to ascribe to it a different origin from the corals,
whose exact and beautiful cellular structure evinces an
animal agency as plainly as the honeycomb of a beehive.
It is therefore quite unnecessary to suppose the calcareous coral rocks either secreted by insects, or the
exuvise of the insects, or the dead bodies of the insects
themselves; but they are simply carbonate of limehprecipitated from the sea-water which holds its particles in
solution, mixed and cemented together with broken
shells and pieces of corals. The coral, properly so called,
(that which is to be seen in museums and cabinets,) is
what is built upon this rock as a foundation, by the
coral insect.
These observations made on corals as seen in the beds
where they grow, at the Sandwich Islands, and recorded
on the spot, have induced me to compare the results
thus obtained with what has been written on this subject by certain late authors.
In a recent article from the North British Review,
by Sir David Brewster, he says:-" Our readers, no
doubt, are aware that the coral rocks which form islands
and reefs hundreds of miles in extent, are built by small
animals, called polypus, that secrete, from the lower
portion of their body, a large quantity of carbonate of
lime; which, when diffused around the body, and deposited between the folds of its abdominal coats, constitutes a cell, orpolypidom, orypolypary, into the hollow of
which the animal can retire. The solid thus formed is
called a coral, which represents exactly the animal itself.




182       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
" These stony cells are sometimes single and cupped;
sometimes ramifying like a tree, and sometimes grouped
like a cauliflower, or imitating the human brain. The
calcareous cells which they build remain fixed to the
rock in which they began their labors, after the animals
themselves are dead. A new set of workmen take their
places, and add another story to the rising edifice. The
same process goes on from generation to generation,
until the wall reaches the surface of the ocean, where it
necessarily terminates.
"These industrious laborers act as scavengers of the
lowest class; perpetually employed in cleansing the
waters of the sea from impurities which escape even the
smallest crustacea; in the same manner as the insect
tribes, in their various stages, are destined to find their
food by devouring impurities caused by dead animals
and vegetable matter in the land.
~" Were we to unite into one mass the immense coral
reefs, three hundred miles long, and the numberless
coral islands, some of which are forty and fifty miles in
diameter; and if we add to this all the coralline limestone, and the other formations, whether calcareous or
silicious, that are the works of insect labor, we should
have an accumulation of solid matter which would compose a planet or a satellite-at least one of the smaller
planets, between Mfars and Jupiter. And if such a
planet could be so constructed, may we not conceive
that the solid materials of a whole system of worlds
might have been formed by the tiny, but long-continued
labors of beings that are invisible i"




VIEWS OF SIR DAVID BREWSTER.        183
Now here is a mixture of fancy and fact, which a
single personal inspection of a coral reef by the learned
theorizer would have very considerably modified. He
would become satisfied, I think, that the great reef itself, as it appears at the Sandwich Islands, so far from
being the work of insect labor alone, is the basis which
Nature herself lays, in the way before referred to, by
the precipitation of carbonate of lime, through electrical
agency, from sea-water, for the coral insect to build
upon, and garnish with his beautiful structures. This
basis, it is true, is increased from time to time by the
decay of the coral fabrics, but it is never reared by
them alone from the depths of the sea.
Coral was generally deemed a vegetable substance
until the year 1720, when MI. de Peyronnel, of Marseilles, commenced and continued for thirty years a
series of observations, by which he ascertained the coral
to be the production of a living animal of the polypi
tribe. The general name of zoophytes, or plant-animals,
has since been applied to these marine insects, though
sometimes called lithophytes, or stone-plants. They
occur most frequently in the tropical seas, and decrease
in number and variety as we approach the poles.
" The various species of these animals (says Dr. Milner, Gallery of Nature, p. 381) appear to be furnished
with minute glands, secreting gluten, which, upon exudation, convert the carbonate of lime in the ocean, and
other earthy matters, into a fixed and concrete substance, twisted and fashioned in every variety of shape.




184          LI:E IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
The formation of coral is one of those chemical processes in the great laboratory of nature, which the skill
of man has not enabled him  either to imitate or to comprehend; but the fact is clear, that large masses of
solid rock are formed by those diminutive living agents,
sea-workers, toiling and spinning to the music of the
waves, whose constructions are capable of resisting the
tremendous power of ocean, when most agitated by
winds and tempests, and ultimately become a secure
habitation for man himself."
The coral substance appears to bear the same relation
to the insect, as the shell of a snail or of an oyster does
to either of those animals, without which they cannot
long exist; and it is upon the death of the animalcules
that their separate structures become firmly knit together by some mysterious cement, and serve as the
basis for the erections of fresh races, which, as they
die off, increase the growth of the firm and solid fabric.
" Millions of millions thus, from age to age,
With simplest skill, and toil unweariable,
No moment and no movement unimproved,
Line laid on line, on terrace terrace spread,
To swell the heightening, brightening, gradual mound,
By marvellous structure climbing towards the day.
Each wrought alone, yet all together wrought,
Unconscious, not unworthy instruments,
By which a hand invisible was raising
A new creation in the secret deep.
Omnipotence wrought in them, with them, by them;
Hence, what Omnipotence alone could do,
Worms did."
Captain Flinders, while surveying the coasts of New




OBSERVATIONS OF CAPTAIN FLINDERS.     185
Holland, examined the coral formations in process there;
and his remarks seem to me to give the true theory of
coral reefs, if there be added the fact of the natural
precipitation of carbonate of lime from the sea-water in
which it is held in solution, and the formation of the
cement by electrical agency and heat.
" It seems to me," he writes, " that when the animalctles, which form the coral at the bottom of the ocean,
cease to live, their structures adhere to each other by
virtue either of the glutinous remains within, or of some
property in salt water; and the interstices being gradually filled up with sand and broken pieces of coral
washed by the sea, which also adhere, a mass of rock
is at length formed. Future races of these animalcules
erect their habitations upon the rising bank, and die in
their turn to increase this monument of their wonderful labors.
" The care taken to work perpendicularly in the early
stages, would mark a surprising instinct in these discriminative creatures. Their wall of coral, for the most
part, in situations where the winds are constant, being
arrived at the surface, affords a shelter, to leeward of
which their infant colonies may be safely sent forth;
and to this, their instinctive foresight, it seems to be
owing that the windward side of a reef, exposed to
the open sea, is generally, if not always, the highest
part, and rises almost perpendicular, sometimes from
the depth of two hundred, and perhaps many more
fathoms."
Commander Wilkes, of the United States Exploring




186       LrIE IN THE SANDWICH ISLA1NDS.
Squadron, sounded only one hundred and fifty fathoms
off from the perpendicular coral cliff of Aurora Island,
but found no bottom with a line of that length.
To be constantly covered with water seems necessary
to the continued existence and activity of the coral
animalcules. It cannot, indeed, be perceived that they
are living at all, except in holes upon the coral reef
itself that are below low-water mark, where we have
often watched the progress of their rising structures,
when we could not detect with the closest inspection
the busy little builders themselves; yet imagination
has been busy in tracing their work as L2Eneas was, under
the cloud, at young Carthage:
Miratur molem LEneas, magalia quondam;
Miratur portas, strepitumque, et strata viarum
Fervet opus.
Almost as fast as they build, the coral sand, always
suspended and washed about in sea-water, fills up the
little cells, and pores, and interstices of the minute
masonry, while broken remnants of dead coral and other
matter thrown up by the sea are caught and cemented
to the growing wall, and form a solid mass with it as
high as the common tides reach. When that limit is
attained, and the surface of the reef is now out of, or
even with the water, the labor of the coralligenous
zoophyte is over, the sea gradually recedes, the rampart
rises, the limed debris or fragments upon it, being now
rarely covered with water and dried by the sun, lose
their adhesiveness and become brittle remnants, form



GRADUAL FORMATION OF AN ISLAND.            18T
ing what is called sometimes a key upon the top of the
reef, from the Spanish Cayo.
This new bank is, of course, not long in being visited
by sea-birds; salt-plants take root upon it, branches of
floating sea-weed are caught and entangled by it; muscles, and crabs, and echinuses, and turtles, and krakens,
perhaps crawl upon it and leave their shells, and a soil
begins to be formed. By and by a cocoanut, or the
drupe of a tropical Pandanus, is thrown ashore; landbirds light on it and deposit the seeds of shrubs and
trees, and augment it, perhaps, with a layer of guano.
Every high-tide, and still more, every gale, adds something to the bank in the shape of matter-wrecks, organic or inorganic. At length appears the blue hummock of a tropical island, and last of all comes man to
take possession, cast there by Providence, and glad not
to have the sea his grave, or in quest of discovery and
gain.
I have repeatedly seen and stepped upon progressive
and unfinished parts of creation like this, where, as
traced by a poet-observer of the Processes of NatureThe atom thrown from the boiling deep,
The palm-tree torn from its distant steep,
The grain by the wandering wild-bird sown,
The seed of flowers by the tempest strown,
The long kelp forced from its rocky bed,
And the cocoanut, on the waters shed,These gather around the coral's lee,
And form the isle of the lonely sea.
There is an island in Australia called Half-way Island, from the fact, we believe, that nature does not yet




188        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
seem done with it, or to have finished its creation; yet
above the reach of the highest spring-tides or the wash
of the surf in the heaviest gale. A navigator -who has
visited it says, that he distinguisher in the coral rock
which forms its basis, the sand, coral, and shells formerly thrown up and cemented together by the lime
always held in solution by sea-water. Small pieces of
wood also, pumice-stone, and other extraneous bodies
which chance had mixed with the calcareous substances
when the cohesion began, were inclosed in the rock,
and in some cases were still separable from it without
much force.
We have observed the same at the lonely South Pacific island of Rimatara, over whose verdure-clad coral
remains we once had a joyous day's ramble.  The
same is true, also, of other reefs at the Sandwich Islands, where, as at Honolulu for instance, blocks of it
are quarried from exposed parts, and used for building
purposes, (to which it is well adapted,) besides being
burned into lime.
From an admirable work on corals, published in the
Scientific and Natural History series of the London
Tract Society, and containing a number of very accurate wood-cuts, representing different species of coral
polypi and corallines, we learn that coral is found in
different parts of the Mediterranean and Red Sea, not
only attached to rocks, but also to movable bodies, as
stone vases and fragments of lava. It is also discovered
at different depths, but thrives best in a warm and sunny




AGENTS OF GROWTH AND REDUCTION.      189
aspect. Light operates powerfully in its growth, and its
deposition by the living creature is by no means rapid.
It is thought to require eight years for a stem of
Mediterranean or Red Sea coral to obtain the average
height of ten or twelve inches, in water from three to
ten fathoms deep; ten years if the water is fifteen
fathoms; twenty-five or thirty years if the water is a
hundred fathoms; and at least forty years if the depth
is one hundred and fifty fathoms.
It is more beautiful in shallow water, where the
light reaches it, than where an immense body, absorbing most of the luminous rays, deprives it of their
curiously modifying influence. Having attained its
full growth, it is soon pierced in every part by worms,
(which attack even the hardest rocks,) loses its solidity,
and but slight shocks detach it from its base. The
polypi perish, and the coral stem, by attrition with the
sea-worn pebbles, as it rolls along, is soon reduced to
powder, or coral sand.
Captain Hall says of the reefs in the seas about Loo
Choo, Indian Ocean, what I have often heard American whalemen say of those in the 1Mozambique channel, which is the region of ocean most prolific in curious shells, that when the sea has left a reef for some
time between the tides, it becomes dry, and appears to
be a compact rock, exceedingly hard and ragged. But
no sooner does the tide rise again, and the waves begin to wash over it, than millions of worms protrude
themselves from holes on the surface, which were before quite invisible.




190        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
" These animals (he says) are of a great variety of
shapes and sizes, and in such prodigious numbers, that in
a short time the whole surface of the rock appears to be
alive and in motion. The most common of the worms
was in the form of a star, with arms from four to six
inches long, which it moved about with a rapid motion
in all directions, probably in search of food. Others
were so sluggish, that they were often mistaken for
pieces of the rock; these were generally of a dark color,
and from four to five inches long, and two or three
round.
"When the rock was broken from  a spot near the
level of high water, it was found to be a hard, solid
stone; but if any part of it were detached at a level
to which the tide reached every day, it was discovered
to be full of worms, of all different lengths and colors:
some being as fine as a thread, and several feet long,
generally of a very bright yellow, and sometimes of a
blue color; while others resembled snails; and some
were not unlike lobsters and prawns in shape, but soft,
and not above two inches long."
Probably it was with the minute description in mind
of some closely observing navigator in Eastern seas,
that the accomplished author of the finely conceived
Poem called " The Pelican Island," adds this as a sequel to the coral-forming process which he has been
most accurately describing:
A point at first
It peered above those waves; a point so small,
I just perceived it, fixed where all was floating;




MICROSCOPIC MOSS CORALS.                 191
And when a bubble crossed it, the blue film
Expanded like a sky above the speck:
That speck became a hand-breadth; day and night
It spread, accumulated, and ere long
Presented to my view a dazzling plain,
White as the moon amid the sapphire sea;
Bare at low water, and as still as death,
But when the tide came guggling o'er the surface,'Twas like a resurrection of the dead:
From graves innumerable, punctures fine
In the close coral, capillary swarms
Of reptiles, horrent as Medusa's snakes,
Covered the bald-pate reef. Then all was life,
And indefatigable industry:
The artisans were twisting to and fro
In idle-seeming convolutions; yet
They never vanished with the ebbing surge,
Till pellicle on pellicle, and layer
On layer, was added to the growing mass.
Ere long the reef o'ertopped the spring-flood's height,
And mocked the billows when they leapt upon it,
Unable to maintain their slippery hold,
And falling down in foam-wreaths round its verge.
There is a variety of coral, of microscopic minuteness in its structure, of which the naturalists Ehrenberg
and D'Orbigny have discovered hundreds of fossil species; and their minute shelly cases enter into the
composition  of chalk-beds, compact mountain  limestone, the sea-sand of Europe, the IMauritius, the Sandwich Islands, and the sands of the Libyan desert,
even.
Some idea of the minuteness of these fossil moss
corals may be formed from the fact, that in the finest
levigated whiting multitudes are present, without having suffered change in the preparation of the chalk.




192       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Only let the microscope be employed, and a mosaicwork of moss-coral animalcules may be seen, of varied
and beautiful forms, on the chalk-coating of the walls
of a room.
The best way of observing them is to place a drop of
water on a delicate film of mica, and to add to it as
much fine chalk-powder as the top of a penknife will
take up. Spread this out like a very thin layer, then
drain off the water, and with it the floating particles;
when the layer is quite dry, coat it over with pure
Canada balsam, holding it, while this is being done,
over a spirit-lamp.  Then  the powder, examined
through a microscope, will be found chiefly composed
of minute cells, the relics of moss corals.
Since the publication of the Annals of the U. S.
Exploring Squadron, and especially the late volume of
its Geology, by James D. Dana, Geologist of the Expedition, science has no lack of materials for describing and classifying the various species of coral zoophytes, their localities, modes, and probable times of
growth. The facts furnished by this Expedition are
almost innumerable; and in the superb quarto volume
on Geology they are arranged in such a felicitous scientific order, (though, from the vast amount of original
matter, necessarily diffuse,) as to afford the coral naturalist all the information he could desire.
The author's own deductions are clear and philosophical, and being derived from no partial knowledge of facts, they constitute a. most valuable exhibi



PEJEE ISLAND REEFS DESCRIBED.       193
tion of the conclusive and comprehensive logic of
Modern Science.  His view  of the formation and
growth both of reefs and corals agrees substantially
with that presented above, and derived from our observations around the Island of Molokai.
His description of the inner reefs in the Fejees
might answer almost equally well for this island. Examples are common there where, as in the account I
have given of our ten miles sail upon the Molokai
reef, a remote barrier incloses as pure a sea as the
ocean beyond, and the greatest agitation is only such
as the wind may excite on a narrow lake or channel.
Over the surface there are many portions still under
water at the lowest tides; and fine fishing sport is afforded on them to the natives, who wade out at the
ebb-tide with spears, pronged sticks, and nets, to supply
themselves with food
"The lover of the marvellous may find abundant
gratification by joining in such a ramble.  Among
coral plants and flowers, with fishes of fantastic colors
-star-fish, eehini, and myriads of other beings, which
science alone has named, fit inhabitants of a coral
world-there is on every side occasion for surprise
and admiration.  Generally, the rock of these inner reefs is composed of coral, which stands as it
grew, less fragmentary than the outer, but united
by a solid cement.  Upon its surface the limits of
the constituent masses may be often distinctly traced.  The corals grow  underneath the surface in
solid hemispheres; but when the surface is reached
9




194       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
the top dies, and enlargement only goes on at the
sides.
"Some individual specimens of Porites, in the rock
of the inner reef of Tongatabu, were twenty-five feet in
diameter; and Astreas and Meandrinas, both there
and in the Fejees, measured twelve to fifteen feet.
The platform resembles a Cyclopean pavement, except
that the cementing material between the huge masses
is more solid than any work of art could be.
"' Sometimes the barrier reef recedes from the shore,
and forms wide channels or inland seas, where ships
find ample room and depth of water, exposed, however, to the danger of hidden reefs. The reef on the
northeast coast of New Holland and New Caledonia
extends four hundred miles, at a distance varying from
thirty to sixty miles from shore, and having as many
fathoms of depth in the channel. West of the large
Fejee Islands the channel is in some parts twenty-five
miles wide, and twelve to forty fathoms in depth. The
sloop of war Peacock sailed along the west coast of
both Viti Lebu and Vanua Lebu, within the inner
reefs, a distance exceeding two hundred miles.
"A barrier reef, inclosing a lagoon, is the general
formation of the coral islands, though there are some
of small size in which the lagoon is wanting. These
are found in all stages of development: in some the
reef is narrow and broken, forming a succession of
narrow islets with openings into the lagoon; in others
there only remains a depression of surface in the centre to indicate where the lagoon originally was. The




NOTICES OF THE KINGSMILL GROUP.        195
most beautiful are those where the lagoon is completely inclosed, and rests within a quiet lake. Maraki,
one of the iKingsmill group, is one of the prettiest coral
islands of the Pacific. The line of vegetation is unbroken, and seen from the mast-head it lies like a garland thrown upon the waters.
" When first seen from the deck of a vessel, only a
series of dark points is descried, just above the horizon. Shortly after the points enlarge into the plumed
tops of cocoanut-trees, and a line of green, interrupted
at intervals, is traced along the water's surface. Approaching still nearer, the lake and its belt of verdure
are spread out before the eye, and a scene of more interest can scarcely be imagined.  The surf, beating
loud and heavy along the margin of the reef, presents
a strange contrast to the prospect beyond-the white
coral beach, the massy foliage of the grove, and the
embosomed lake, with its tiny islets.  The color of
the lagoon water is often as blue as the ocean, although but fifteen or twenty fathoms deep; yet shades
of green and yellow are intermingled, where patches
of sand or coral knolls are near the surface; and the
green is a delicate apple shade, quite unlike the usual
muddy tint of shallow waters.
"' These garlands of verdure seem to stand on the
brims of cups, whose bases rest in unfathomable depths.
Seven miles east of Clermont Tonnere, the lead ran out
to eleven hundred and forty-five fathoms (six thousand
eight hundred and seventy feet) without reaching bottom. Within three-quarters of a mile of the southern




196        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
point of this island, the lead at another throw, after
running out for a while, brought up in an instant at
three hundred and fifty fathoms, and then dropped off
again and descended to six hundred fathoms without
reaching bottom. The lagoons are generally shallow,
though in the larger islands soundings gave twenty to
thirty-five, and even fifty and sixty fathoms."
In observing these vast walls of coral masonry, and
in studying the diversities of coral upon them, and the
curiously modified forms of beauty they assume, it is
natural to ask, What ends do they serve? and what is
all this outlay of beauty for? It were a good answer
to say, in the words of the Psalmist, when he was attempting to uncover and describe some of the curious
processes of Nature:-O lord, how manifold are tlhy
worlcs! in wisdom, hast thou mcde theem algl.
Aside from the manifest utilitarian ends they serve
in building* up beautiful oases from the bed of ocean,
as places of habitation for man and beast, and then affording the material in such exhaustless affluence out
of which art may construct temples for God's worship
and palaces for man's abode, we say of them, as we
can of all things in God's Universe, what one of the
most eminent American authors has written in the
Poem entitled "Factitious Life:"
THESE are Earth's uses:-God has framed the whole,
Not mainly for the body, but the soul,
That it might dawn on beauty, and might grow
Noble in thought, from Nature's noble show;
* See Note B.




NATURAL AND iESTHETIC USES OF CORAL.    19T
Might gather from the flowers an humble mind,
And on Earth's ever-varying surface find
Something to win to kind and fresh'ning change,
And give the powers a wide and healthful range;
To furnish man sweet company where'er
He travels on-a something to call dear,
And more his own, because it makes a part
With that fair world that dwells within the heart.
Earth yields to healthful labor meat and drink,
That man may live —for what l To feel and think;
And not to eat and drink, and like the beast,
Sleep, and then wake and get him to his feast.
Over these grosser uses Nature throws
Beauties so delicate, the man foregoes
A while his low intents, to soft delights
Yields up himself; and, lost in sounds and sights,
Forgets that Earth was made for aught beside
His doting; and he woos it as his bride!
X,/_::~a:CrlRe. a
r ----- _ --
__ L _        _
Cicua Co l  le a-.
_s —n —.2                  -:: ==== —-=; —=2_~= = ==;
_ S=-    --   --
A: -; —------— ~= —-— ~~~-;~=Cirulr  Coral_ Reef and Lagoon.~ — -  -




198             LIFE  IN  TIIE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.
CHAPTER IX.
REMINISCENCES OF LAHAINALUNA, AND SKETCHES OF THE FIRST
HAWAIIAN COLLEGE.
Suave, marli magno turbantibus mquora ventis,
E terra magnum alterius spectare laborem.
LUCRETIUS.
Sweet, from a post of safety, to review the labors and virtues of other
men beyond the seas.
We recross the Molokai channel by canoe-Sketch of an Hawaiian College-Internal
economy and discipline-Origin and history-Faculty and course of study-Intention
of the founders —Ability and usefulness of the first graduates-Laws ahead of morals-Wisdom not always married to the wise-Prudence not limited to the prudential-A revolution in progress-Signs of the times-Entente cordiale-Natural differences of opinion among missionaries-A pastor's expedient to sound the knowledge of his flock- Great difficulty of being simple enough in the exhibition of truth
-Remarkable answers of natives-Heathen destitution of common ideas-Consequent inappreciation of Scripture-Similar experience of missionaries in the eastRemarkable cases in proof-Fruits of the great revival —Reasonings of practical men
-Sources of correct information-How to find the meridian of truth-Illustration
from the working of longitude by lunars.
IT is one of the most grateful recollections of the tour
we have been making through the Hawaiian Heart of
the Pacific, that a providential passage across the rude
channel between the islands of Maui and Molokai, consigned me over to the very cordial hospitalities of Lahainaluna. The location there of the Mission Seminary, containing one hundred and thirty or forty lads
and young men, the college-like aspect of the main
building, and frequent sounds of the bell, summoning




PANORAMA FROM THE COLLEGE HILL.      199
to some exercise, all invest the place with a literary
air that is not to be found elsewhere at the Sandwich
Islands.
Persons connected with the Seminary, and the families of the teachers, are the sole residents. It is far
enough removed from Lahaina to be retired, while the
town and shipping are all in sight two miles below.
The panorama it commands of sky, ocean, and island,
with their overhanging clouds, especially from a point
still higher up the mountain, where Mr. Dibble himself built a house, is very extensive and grand. Four
different islands and the magnificent expanse of the
Pacific are always there, and sometimes, on a clear day,
you can discern Oahu, seventy miles off to the northwest, and Hawaii, still further to the south.
There are three dwelling-houses for teachers, besides
a commodious stone printing-house, and the College
edifice, which, including its wings, is one hundred and
forty feet front, and between thirty and forty feet deep,
of two stories high, with attic and cupola. The students' quarters are two ranges of adobe and grasshouses, a little to the south of the College. A brook is
always flowing in front, lining itself with verdure, and
a row of thrifty trees more than repays, with grateful
shade and green, the pains bestowed upon them.
The internal conduct and discipline of the Institution
is much after the form of Colleges in America. The
students study at their rooms, and recite by divisions.
Afternoons, from two to supper-time, are devoted to
cultivating food, and other labor, for which they are




200       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
compensated in clothing, at fixed rates. Meals are at
a common table.
The expense of food is about two cents a day for one
person, or seven dollars and thirty cents per year.
Clothing, including mats and sleeping kapas, amounts
to nearly the same. Books, stationery, and other incidentals, make up the whole to about twenty dollars per
year, for which sum, given by any Church or Sundayschool, constituting a scholarship, the faculty will educate a man for the ministry.
The faculty officiate by turns at morning and evening
prayers. A church is constituted within the institution,
of which Mr. Dibble, during his life, was pastor.
Twenty-five of the students were members. They have
frequent religious meetings by themselves, and worship
in a body in the chapel on the Sabbath. The departments of instruction and executive administration are
three.
Rev. Mr. Alexander had the department of Mathematics, Natural Philosophy, and Astronomy, and the
immediate oversight and discipline of the students.
Rev. Mr. Dibble had the department of Mental and
Moral Science, Theology, and History. Rev. Mr. Emerson that of Languages, Geography, Composition, and
Oratory, and the management of the manual labor department. He was also pastor of a church at Kaanapali, twelve miles distant, numbering one hundred and
thirty-one members. They have had to prepare their
text-books in each department, a work which, from the
outset, has been one of no small magnitude.




SIGNAL USEFULNESS OF EARLY GRADUATES.  201
This institution has now been in existence twenty
years. It was commenced in 1831, under the care of
Rev. Lorrin Andrews, and had to wade along several
years through a dismal swamp of embarrassments, accidents, and contracted means. The Res anguste domi,
so often the lot of literary Men, is generally, too, the
portion of Literary Institutions, during the period of
their infancy. This was eminently true of the early
days of the High School, as it was then called.
But the sons it reared in those days, like the offspring
of honest poverty, have turned out practical and robust
men, the main stay of Common Schools, many of them
apt to teach, industrious, and faithful. Of one hundred
and fifty-eight graduates, living in 1842, eleven only
were reported as not usefully employed, or immoral.
Seventy-three were church members, and nine officers
in the church.
Up to the year 1849, the Seminary, with all its permanent dwelling-houses and appurtenances, cost the
American Board about seventy-seven thousand dollars,
and it is now adopted by, and given over to, the Hawaiian Government, and is to be sustained hereafter by
Government funds alone, but on essentially the same
plan as heretofore. Up to the present time of its being
made over to the Government, it has sent forth two
hundred and forty-one graduates, and it now has one
hundred and fifty-six under-graduates, as shown by the
last catalogue.
It is a good investment for the church, at compound
interest; and the day, I trust, is not far distant when it
9*




202       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
will be rendering a dividend of well-educated assistant
missionaries and medical practitioners for Hawaii-nei,
and all the other islands of Polynesia, who will not
need an annual shipment from foreign lands to supply
their wants; who will be of common kith and kin, and
habits with the people to be instructed, and by whom
their languages may be easily acquired, being, like their
own, dialects of the one great language that is spoken
throughout Polynesia. But in order to this, it must be
more liberally endowed and better furnished, and the
range of study must be more extensive and thorough.
The plan of study, and the length of the course, have
been somewhat modified in order to meet the increasing
necessity for the acquisition of English. It has been
determined that scholars of very little promise be dismissed from the Seminary at an early date; and that
at the close of the first three years, all who do not give
special i)romise of future usefulness be dismissed: That
the English language be not taught in the Seminary
till the close of the three first years of the course, when
all the members of the class, who shall not be dismissed,
are expected to enter upon the study of the English, as
a prominent branch; and that the whole course, including the study of Theology, be extended from eight
to twelve years: That to teach successfully the English
language, is a work that will require the time and
strength of one teacher.'We are well persuaded that this is not all that will
be necessary in order to secure an available knowledge
of English, which is becoming so much an object, of




ENGLISH AS A VEHICLE OF INSTRUCTION.   203
desire on the part of Hawaiians. Boys must be taught
it at the preparatory station schools, and be drilled in
it all through the course of their education, till the
sciences can be learned in it, as in the Seminary at
Batticotta, and its treasures of knowledge be made accessible to the Hawaiian teacher and preacher.
It will be a much cheaper and surer way of enlightening the Hawaiian mind, than to attempt to introduce
any thing but the very elements of English science
and literature in an Hawaiian dress. Natives, to be
competent teachers, and preachers, and civilians, must
know something more than these, and otherwise than
through the medium of a translation.
Besides, it is only by a knowledge of English that
Hawaiians can compete with foreigners, and fill their
own offices of government. The kingdom is inevitably
departed from them, and men of other blood rule over
them, unless they learn to write and wrangle, and
make treaties in English, and present qualifications to
office, as clerks and scholars, equal to those of supplanting foreigners. The wise among them are beginning
to see this, and to inquire, What are we coming to?
And they are urgent, above any thing else, for themselves and their sons to learn the English.
It is not the least of the advantages of the excellent
school of young chiefs at Honolulu, that they are receiving their instructions, and learning to converse and
transact business in the language which threatens to
conquer theirs. The policy of it, to say no more, is as
wise as that of certain States in a former age,, that, in




204       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
order to avoid subjugation to ancient Rome, adopted,
as far as possible, her customs and laws, and put themselves in safe alliance with the mistress of the world.
It is easy to see that the mistress-tongue both of the
Continental and Island-World of the Pacific, as well as
Atlantic, is to be the accommodating and all-supplanting English. They who perceive it among the IHawaiians desire therefore to master it beforehand, as the best
way to keep from being denationalized and mastered
by it.
In the constitution and laws of the Mission Seminary
at Lahainaluna, it is declared to be a definite object to
train up and qualify school-teachers for their respective
duties, to teach them, theoretically and practically, the
best method of communicating instruction to others, together with a knowledge of the arts, usages, and habits
of civilized life, with all their train of social blessings.
It is, then, a thing to be wondered at, and for the Government to be ashamed of, that it has done no more
than it has for a Seminary that has so noble an object,
and that is itself doing so much for the well-being of
the nation.
As an offset to the unnatural thing of charging the
Mission duties on goods imported for their own family
consumption, (which was once done, but now we believe
is not,) Government ought at least to have endowed or
supported an English Professorship long before this,
and so to have been doing something in a line with
Christian benevolence towards paying the nation's debt
to the churches of America.




COST AND WORTH OF THE SEMINARY.      205
In 1842, of one hundred and fifty-eight persons then
living, who had been members of the Seminary, thirtyfive were officers of Government, one hundred and five
teachers of the public schools. By general consent, the
influence of the Seminary has been highly beneficial
to the Hawaiian people; and it has a claim upon the
national treasury which will not be any longer overlooked, provided only it be replenished by the indemnity
asked of Great Britain, and by the twenty thousand
dollars so ingloriously extorted by the French, and
other damages sustained in the outrages under Admiral
Tromelin. The usual yearly appropriation from  the
treasury of the Mission has been two thousand five
hundred dollars. To the Boarding-schools at Hilo and
Wailuku, eight hundred dollars each.
In its early days, when this Institution was struggling
for existence, its pupils were nearly all adults with
families, and they had to support themselves while
getting an education. The perseverance and stability
of character, which was both a prerequisite to, and an
effect of such a discipline, made them trusty and able
men, whose services have been of great value to the
nation and the cause of Christ. All those that have
graduated younger and unmarried of late years, have
not turned out so well.
Nor is it to be expected that youth just set free from
the close restraints and vigilant keeping of a life in
school, should behave themselves always so properly as
sedate men, who had sown their wild oats years before,
and who went out to places of usefulness with charmac



206       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
ters tried and established, and their domestic relations
fixed.
It would be strange, indeed, if the spirit of the young
colt should not sometimes break out with newly enjoyed liberty; and stranger still, if young men taught
the value of property by an apprenticeship of seven or
eight years, should not be sometimes found covetous
and greedy. But these are evils necessarily incident to
the working of a good system, and tell nothing against
it, any more than do the infirmities and faults of Christians against Christianity, which yet are the husks that
swinish men do eat.
If the nation is to be permanently elevated and enlightened, some of its youth must be educated and disciplined in such an Institution as this is meant to be.
If some, upon whom pains and expense are bestowed,
prove worthless, it is only what experienced men expect,
and does not blind their eyes to the good that has been
done, or quench their hopes for days to come.
There have been some painful disclosures of immorality at Lahainaluna, that have resulted in the dismission of eight or ten of the students, and the purging
out of some of the old leaven. But their offences,
though flagrant, were such as (if we are not mistaken)
would hardly have caused expulsion from a New England College.
In a community like that at these Islands, where the
laws are so much ahead of the morals, and where the
religious teachers are endeavoring to form a public sentiment of abhorrence towards vice, it is perhaps neces



LAWS IN ADVANCE OF MORALS.           207
sary that offences against purity should be punished
more rigidly than they would be, were there more of
positive virtue and less of vice. But we cannot help
saying with the Roman poet, " Quic  leges, (and, we
might add, quid pwncae,) sine moribus?"
Of what avail are laws and penalties,
Unless there be a virtuous moral sense,
A public conscience to frown upon
And render immorality disgraceful?
The faculty would be much relieved and aided in the
guardianship and discipline of the Seminary, and a
great deal of moral mischief would doubtless be prevented, if they had a suitable man to be entirely devoted to its secular interests, and to inspect the youth
in their hours of relaxation, labor, and rest. But either
the right man has been always wanting, or to the ruling
Missionary Board in America it has not seemed proper
to send one.
Wisdom eighteen thousand miles off, and legislating
like a mother-country over her colonies at the Antipodes, is necessarily far from being perfect. It has all
the disadvantage of a lever of the third power, the
fulcrum at one end, the weight to be raised at the other,
and the power to be applied between the fulcrum and
resistance; so that the weight being so much further
from the centre of motion than the power, the difficulty
of raising it is increased rather than diminished.
Thus, the Prudential Committee of the American
Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions is the
fulcrum, like the ground to a man trying to raise a long




208       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
ladder; the missionaries the other side of Cape Horn
are the man's arms lifting, and the poor people of Hawaii, the long and heavy arm of the ladder to be raised.
Now, if the fulcrum could be moved nearer to the
weight, and the lever turned into one of the first power,
it would work to much greater advantage.
This is in fact practically being done in the present
movement towards independency of the Hawaiian
churches; for the lapse of time, and the extraordinary
blessing of God upon missionary operations at the
Sandwich Islands, are now bringing to pass a revolution, which is seen in the late separation of a number
of missionaries from their pecuniary relation to the
Board, and their consequent independency, and in the
adoption by Government of the College at Lahainaluna.
This will both relieve the treasury of the Board, and
supersede the necessity of much cis-Atlantic management and counselling on the part of the Secretaries of
the Board, who will soon be able to forego or renounce
all other relations to the Pacific Mission churches, except such as the American Home Missionary Society
sustains to its churches in the West.
In the language of the Committee, "they seek to
facilitate the independent settlement of the members of
the Sandwich Island M/ission, as pastors and teachers
at the Islands, and to place those who cannot yet obtain
a living on the same footing with our home missionaries. And they expect by this means to enable and
induce the missionaries generally to remain at the Isl



THE FUTURE BASIS OF HAWAIIAN SOCIETY.   209
ands with their families, and thus insure, through the
divine blessing, a Puritan basis for the community,
whatever it shall be, which is to exist on those Islands."
In the event of an American Protectorate, at the request of the Hawaiian government, or of annexation to
the United States, (one of which measures would seem
to be almost indispensable for the protection of these
Islands against the insults and aggressions of the
French,) the future Sandwich Island community must
be substantially an American community, moulded to
a great degree by American missionaries. It is therefore a matter of congratulation to the philanthropist
who looks to the future good of the human race, and to
the patriot who would rear an intelligent and Christian nation in the Heart of the Pacific, that the foremost men at the Sandwich Islands are, or have been,
missionaries, actuated by one prevalent desire, the perpetuation and improvement of the Island race, whether
pure or mixed.
In this the missionaries all agree. But familiar intercourse with the different members of the Hawaiian
Mission, while it has made known an excellent spirit of
concord -and fraternal esteem between its members, has
also caused me to be acquainted with some natural
differences of opinion on things pertaining to the condclct of missionary operations, and the enlargement and
discipline of native churches.
Some are of opinion that it is best to keep one door
of the church always open, and make sure of admitting




210       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
all the sheep by it, and afterwards to eject all the goats,
as they are discovered, by a back door. Or, as others
express it, that they must keep a little stream running
through the church, in order to keep up their congregations, and save some from going to the Catholics.
Others, on the contrary, of the conservative stamp,
argue that the Church being the practical exposition of
Christianity, there is danger of its losing respect and
moral power by a great many dismissions and excommunications-that more harm is done by getting into
the church a good many hypocrites, than by keeping
out of it a few good Christians-that a church of twelve
truly regenerated is worth more, for good, than a church
of twelve times twelve, a good part of them deceivers
or self-deceived.
They contend that some who are admitted to the
church do not know enough to be Christians. It has
been thought that in a church at one time of one thousand professed converts on the Island of Oahu, there
were hardly ten Christians. Its pastor informed me
that of forty young persons admitted not until six
months after he hoped they were Christians, there were
only two or three that had not been disciplined for
lewdness, and become worthless and depraved. The
difficulty which some conscientious men find in satisfying themselves of the suitableness of candidates for the
church is very great, such are the darkness and ignorance of a heathen mind.
When Mr. Alexander, one of the Lahainaluna teachers, was a pastor, and used to visit his people sixteen




A MISSIONARY'S EXPEDIENTS WITH THE PEOPLE. 211
years ago, on the Island of Kauai, from house to house
on week-days, he told me that he has often taken one
single truth of Scripture and turned it over and over
this way and that way, racked his brain for illustrations,
and explained it in diverse forms, and then has asked
a question to try how far the mind was instructed, and
found, to his grief, that the person knew nothing at alldid not appear to have received a single correct idea.
Then he would return and go through again the same
process of explaining and simplification, at length ask
again some test question, and finding, as before, they
seemed to have apprehended nothing, would have the
melancholy query to put to himself, What do they know
of my sermons.
Frequently, when the people would come to tell him
their mccao; (thought or mental exercise,) as that their
sins were as many as the sands upon the sea-shore, or
as the stars of the sky, or the leaves upon the trees, or
the fish in the sea, he would interrupt them by some
question, to which they, saying over in their minds their
rzncnao lest they should forget it, would not be able to
give any definite answer, but would be stumbled and
balked by the simplest inquiry about the nature of salvation.
Ask them again, sometimes, how they were to be
saved, and they would answer, by praying —by breaking
off sin-seldom by faith in Christ. "Do you sin now'"
"ZNo." " Do you not have evil feelings 2" " I used to,
but don't now."
Their answers were not always out of the way, but




212          LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
frequently witty and to the point. As Mr. Alexander
was once asking some of his people about depravity,
and how they would express their moral state, he was
aptly answered, We are all like rotten eggs.  Some of
the first inquirers at the Islands said to the early missionaries, "  {My heart is dark: you are light, and must
enlighten it." Another, " My heart is a wilderness,
you must cultivate it."  Another, " Ify heart is a lamp,
you must fill it with oil."  Another, " My heart is a
dry field, you must water it."
So an old man in the interior of Africa, when his
people were  asked by the  missionary  whether they
would not like to be taught the truths of God's word,
replied that " they were like men lost far off in the bush,
and in darkness, unable to find their way out.* The
* The experience of a thoughtful pagan shrouded in the dense darkness of heathenism, yet feeling after God, is strikingly exhibited in the
talk of a Bechuana, called Sekesa, with a missionary from whom he had
been hearing the Gospel:
" Your views, O white man, are just what I wanted and sought for
before I knew you. Twelve years ago I went, in a cloudy season, to feed
my flock along the Tlotse, among the Malutis. Seated upon a rock, in
sight of my sheep, I asked myself sad questions; yes, sad, because I
could not answer them. The stars, said I, who touched them with his
hand? On what pillars do they rest? The waters are not weary; they
run without ceasing, at night and morning alike; but where do they
stop? or who makes them run thus?  The clouds also go, return, and
fall in water to the earth. Whence do they arise? Who sends them?
It surely is not the Barokas (rain-makers) who gave us the rain, for how
could they make it? The wind-what is it? Who brings it, or takes
it away, makes it blow, and roar, and frighten us? Do I know how the
corn grows? Yesterday, there was not a blade to be seen in my field.
To-day, I return and find something. It is very small; I can scarcely




STRIKING EXPERIENCE OF THE PAGAN MIND.   213
missionary seemed  a kind  friend meeting them, and
offering to conduct them home."
The missionaries, to a man, testify to the extreme
difficulty of preaching simply enough for the Hawaiian
mind. Doubtless many sermons, especially from young
missionaries, quite fail of giving instruction because
see it, but it will grow up like to a young man. Who can have given the
ground wisdom and power to produce it?  Then I buried my forehead
in my hands.
"Again I thought within myself, and I said, We all depart, but this
country remains; it alone remains, for we all go away. But whither
do we go? My heart answered, Perhaps other men live, besides us,
and we shall go to them. A second time it said, Perhaps those men
live under the earth, and we shall go to them. But another thought
arose against it, and said, Those men under the earth, whence come
they? Then my heart did not know what more to think. It wandered.
Then my heart rose and spoke to me, saying, All men do much evil, and
thou, thou also hast done much evil. Woe to thee! I recalled many
wrongs which I had done to others, and because of them my conscience
gnawed me in secret, as I sat alone on the rock. I say I was afraid.
I got up, and ran after my sheep, trying to enliven myself; but I trembled much!"
In like manner a certain man on the Malabar coast had inquired of
various devotees and priests, how he might make atonement for his
sins. At last he was directed to the following means: He was to drive
iron spikes, sufficiently blunted, through his sandals; on these spikes he
was to place his naked feet, and walk 250 coss, (about 480 miles.) If
through loss of blood, or weakness of the body, he was obliged to halt,
he might wait for healing and strength. He undertook the journey;
and while he halted under a large shady tree, where the Gospel was
sometimes preached, one of the missionaries came and preached in his
hearing from these words: " The blood of Jesus Christ, his Son, cleanseth
us from all sin."  While he was preaching the man rose up, threw off
his torturing sandals, and cried aloud, " This is what I want-This is what
I want;" and he became a lively witness that the blood of Jesus Christ
cleanses from all sin.




214       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
they give too much, and are deficient in a reiterating
simplicity. Many of the commonest ideas, too, which
we have from very childhood, natives are utterly destitute of.
Tell an Hawaiian that we are God's because he made
us, and it is no reason at all to them, for they have all
along till now been in the habit of making canoes, cultivating food, manufacturing kapa, and the like, and
having it immediately taken away from them by their
chiefs; so that the making of a thing by no means with
them constituted ownership. So to preach to them
from the text in which God challenges honor from the
paternal relation which he stands in to men, " If I be
a father, where is mine honor?" makes little impression,
because they are a people among whom the filial relations and duties have been hitherto so little regarded.
In like manner, to tell them God loveth whom he
chasteneth, and scourgeth every son wholn he receiveth;
that he chastens them in love as a father does the son
in whom he delighteth, is to say what they cannot appreciate, and know nothing of, for they never punish
their children, but when they are Auk/z  roa, that is,
mad.
And here I am reminded of what an English missionary says of his similar experience in the East.
" They (the natives) have the most expressive terms for
sin and holiness, and the duty of worshipping, and they
will hear you with approbation while discoursing
vaguely on these qualities, and yet they attach no
proper meaning to the terms, and will totally misun



MISCONCEPTIONS OF RELIGIOUS TRUTH.    215
derstand you. While discoursing on sin, they will
think you mean insalting a Bramin, or kitllng a cow,
or some such thing; and while on holiness, that you
mean mnaking oferings to their idols, or going on pilgrimages, and performing some acts of external selfmortification. With such notions as these in regard to
sin, and holiness, and repentance, and worship, they
can hardly be said to have a conscience, and you have
yet to form, or rather to mould, one within them."
But all this to the contrary notwithstanding, and
maugre all that may be said on the dark side of native
character and piety, we are sure that they have learned
a great deal of the Gospel at the Sandwich Islands, and
that multitudes among them have felt its power. And
we have noted the memorandum, (whether right or
wrong,) that the older missionaries grow, and the more
thoroughly they become acquainted with native character, and the language, the more they have of charity.
Mr. Alexander, when pastor of the church at Waioli,
on the island of KE~auai, admitted one hundred and
twenty, and he fears that may have been too many.
" Not (he says) that the Gospel has been preached in
vain-I believe that there are not a few sincere converts;
but I have discovered such a disposition in the people
to make the attainment of church-membership a paramount aim, that I have felt like adopting the sentiment
of the great Apostle to the Gentiles: Christ sent me
not to baptize, but to preach the Gospel."
Other pastors, equally conscientious and engrossed
with preaching the Gospel, were admitting at the same




216       LIFE IN THIE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
time (the period of the Great Revival) hundreds, and
even thousands, in the hope that they were the children
of God, and believing that a place in his church was
their right.
Mr. Hitchcock, the laborious missionary on Molokai,
testifies in regard to that work thus: " A greater number of the fruits of that revival give little or no evidence of conversion, than do the same number of those
who were received before. And may not the same be
said of great revivals, ill general, in every part of the
world? I have not the means of determining how
much the cases of discipline in this church exceed
those of the same size in the United States. Probably the excess may be considerable. In estimating,
however, the amount of the work of the Holy Spirit,
the truth will not be come at by mere comparisons in
numbers.
"~ It must be remembered that the converts here were
taken from the lowest depths of ignorance and moral
debasement, and many, yea, all of them, have lived in
habits of falsehood and many other overt sins, until
such habits have become a second nature to them. All
those powerful influences which co-operate with the
grace of God in restraining converts from sin in our
native land, are wholly wanting here. Let it be supposed, for a moment, that all those who entered the
church as fruits of any great revival in New England,
have been destitute of parental influence, destitute of
conscience, destitute of any true sense of the worth of
character, and having lived to the moment of their con



HAWAIIAN AND AMERICAN CHURCHES COMPARED. 217
version in the midst and in the practice of licentiousness.
" It is easy to perceive that, even allowing them to
hlave been true converts, many more cases of discipline
might, and probably would have occurred in those
churches, than can be expected to occur now. What
we have supposed of the converts in such a New England revival, is fact with converts at the Sandwich Islands. The fact, therefore, that cases of sin and disorderly conduct are more frequent here than there, does
not prove that the work of the Holy Spirit, or that the
number of real conversions here, has been less than
there; or that the proportion between real and false
conversions in the Sandwich Islands revivals, is less
than in those occurring in civilized lands.
"-Taking into account all the unfavorable circumstances of the members of the church of which I have
the care, their great ignorance, the limited range of
their ideas, the irresistible influence of the example of
their ungodly friends and of society in general, the
force of early education and habits of sin, their extreme
poverty, idleness, and aversion to thinking, and numerous other adverse influences; the grace of God, in
enabling them to walk as consistently with the Gospel
as they do, seems to me more evident and conspicuous
than it does in churches where there are vastly greater
attainments in holiness, but where adverse influences
do not exist, and where there are ten thousand precious
influences acting in a direct line with that grace."
I have quoted thus at length, because these remarks,
10




218        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
and the whole communication from which they are extracted, contain a better view of iawaiian churches
and revivals than could be given by any man not a
missionary. To the same purport is an earnest letter
from Mr. Coan, in the same number of the Mi/issionary
Herald.*
It has often appeared to me that truth is to be arrived at from comparing the differing views and statements of different men, very much as a ship's longitude
is obtained in working lunars. The labor lies in applying rightly the numerous corrections, now on this
side and now on that. There are the first, second, and
third corrections, with their proportional logarithms.
There are the corrections of the sun's and moon's altitudes, for parallax and refraction, and the height of the
observer above the sea.
There are the corrections of declinations, and distances as calculated in the Nautical Almanac at the
meridian of Greenwich, for the meridian of the ship.
And then there is the correction for the seconds of the
moon's horizontal parallax, and the correction for equation of time, and other things, all of which are to be
exactly applied, and the variation tables carefully consuilted, before the navigator can find his real place.
And even then it is rarely that he gets it by a lunar
nearer than ten or fifteen miles.
So, in gathering truth fromn the observations and reports of men, you have to take into account the place,
* Vol. xxvii., p. 105.




HOW TO FIND THE MERIDIAN OF TRUTII.   219
and profession, and leanings of the observers. You
must compare and correct for the differences of mental
parallax and altitudes made by observers from different
points of view. You must note, if possible, the aberrations from the fixed meridian of truth, when to be
added and when subtracted. The various deflections
and increase or diminution made by prejudice are to
be ascertained. The dip of the mind's horizon is to be
noted, and the different degrees of refraction made by
the differences in men's ordinary intellectual atmospheres, whether clear or foggy. There is a correction
to be made according as you find the observers to be
short or long-sighted, and as they have the eye of an
eagle or that of an owl.
And finally, there is an allowance to be made in the
representations given, according as they think you will
use and steer by their observations or not. And, after
all, if you have patience and skill to apply all the corrections, or are so happy as to be able to do it by intuition, even as rare geniuses are said sometimes to solve
mathematical problems, yet it is not certain that your
result will be absolute truth. And it is seldom that a
modest man will peremptorily challenge another's assent to his own particular conclusions.
While the author of this work is far from challenging
assent to his reasonings and inferences from things at
the Sandwich Islands, either as presented in the present
volume, or in "The Island World of the Pacific," he
both asks and expects a belief in his facts, which he
has certified to be accurate and true, and concerning




220           LIFE IN THE SANDWICH: ISLANDS.
which he affirms only what he well knows.  Conclusions may be mistaken, but facts are fixed and reliable.
From the facts carefully given throughout these pages,
let our readers draw  their own conclusions as to the
civilizing* power of the Gospel, the relative values ot
the Merchant and the Missionary, the results of their
united labors, and the prospects of humanity for time
to come in the HEART OF THE PACIFIC.
* Several laws have been recently passed by the Hawaiian Government, to promote the cause of Education; among them, one giving the
proceeds of certain lands for educational purposes; an annual tax of
two dollars, on each male subject, has been imposed, for the same general purpose; and a fine of one dollar is exacted of every child who
absents himself from school, and a fine of five dollars, if the absence is
the parents' fault. Under the fostering care of Government, and the
encouragement of the missionaries, school districts are now formed all
over the Islands, and school-houses have been erected even in the most
remote and inaccessible places.




WORK  OF'MISSIONARIES IN  THE BOOK  LINE.   221
CHAPTER X.
SANDWICH ISLANDS LITERATURE AND LETTER-WRITERS.
As there are two wants connatural to man, so there are two main
directions of human activity pervading, in modern times, the whole
civilized world; constituting and sustaining that NATIONALITY, which yet
it is their tendency, and more or less their effect, to transcend and to
moderate-namely, TRADE and LITERATURE.
S. T. COLERIDGE,
Number of printed works in the Hawaiian tongue-Literary contributions of natives-Newspapers in the vernacular-An original work on Hawaiian historyInstallation of native ministers-A collection of old meles-Translation of an original song on the creation-Specimens of Cupid's epistolography-,etter from a
damsel of Lahaina-Others from students of the Seminary-Samples of the Hawaiian madrigal-A letter from the Hilo school-girls-Others from teachers in
Kohala-Curious vernacular idioms-Letters from men of Hawaii to a society of
ladies in America-Comments and correspondencies-Unique epistle from a native
teacher-Ingenuous working of regenerated minds-A study for the philosopher-A
trophy of triumph for the Christian-Other specimens of Hawaiian literatureCheering proofs of progress.
IT is natural, while at the  spring-head  of Hawaiian
learning, at Lahainaluna, to say something upon the
subject of Hawaiian literature. This, indeed, has yet
but little to boast of as purely its own. But, aside from
the entire Scriptures, there have been translated and
compiled by the missionaries, within a period of less
than thirty years, upwards of eighty different works.*
* M. Barrot, a French Catholic writer, having taken occasion to censure the missionaries at the Sandwich Islands for not printing more
books in the Hawaiian language, upon "the progress of industry or science," and a less number upon 1" religious subjects, such as commentaries
8*




222             LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Those are now serving for reading, reference, and classbooks, from the primer of A-B-C-darians, up to the
text-book of students in theology.
on the Bible, catechisms for the use of the natives, and hymn-books,"
the editor of the Honolulu Friend thus replies:
Whether the American Missionaries have been particularly censurable
in this respect, we leave our readers to infer by perusing the following
catalogue of publications issued from  the American Mission press previous to 1845:
Elementary Lessons.                   Tract on Popery.
Decalogue and Lord's Prayer.          First Teacher for Children.
Scripture Doctrines.                  Tract on Astronomy.
Thoughts of the Chiefs.               Maps of Sacred Geography.
Sermon on the Mount.                  Sixteen Sermons.
Hawaiian Hymns.                       Tract on Lying.
First Book for Children.              Attributes of God.
Universal Geography.                  First Book for teaching English.
New Testament.                        Moral Science.
Fowle's Child's Arithmetic.           Key to Colburn.
Animals of the Earth.                 Heavenly Manna.
Catechism on Genesis.                 Hymns for Children.
Geometry for Children.                Hawaiian History.
Tract on Marriage.                    Colburn's Algebra.
Sacred Geography.                     Anatomy.
Geographical Questions.               Scripture Lessons.
Bible-class Book.                     Mathematics,  Geometry, Trigonometry,
Colburn's Arithmetic.                   Mensuration, Surveying, and Navigation.
History of Beasts.                    Tract on Intemperance.
Lama Hawaii, newspaper.               Bible-class Book, vol. 2.
Hawaiian Almanac.                         "      "   vol. 3.
Vocabulary.                           Keith's Study of the Globes.
Compend of Ancient History.,          Volume of Sermons.
Union Questions.                      Sandwich Islands Laws.
Colburn's Sequel.                     English and Hawaiian Lessons.
History of Beasts for Children.       Keith on the Prophecies.
Hawaiian Teacher.                     Dying Testimony of Christians and infidels.
Child's Teacher.                      Bailey's Algebra.
Daily Food.                           Reading Book for Schools.
Hlawaiian Grammar.                    Messenger, semi-monthly.
First Reading Book for Children.      History of the Sandwich Islands in English.
Tract on the Sabbath.                 Hawaiian Bible.
Maps of U. Geography.                 Child's Book on the Soul.
Scripture Chronology and History.     Natural Theology.
Hymns, revised and enlarged.          Nonanona, newspaper.
Hymns, with Tunes.                    Articles of Faith and Covenant.
Linear Drawing.                       Church History.
Little Philosopher.                   Moral Philosophy.
English and Hawaiian Grammar.         Pilgrim's Progress.




.LITERARY CONTRIBUTIONS OF NATIVES.      223
A good many of them  have been prepared by the
teachers of the Lahainaluna Seminary; one of the
objects of which is declared to be to disseminate sound
knowledge throughout the Islands, embracing general
literature and the sciences, and whatever may help to
elevate the people from their present ignorance and
degradation, and cause them to become a thinking, enlightened, and virtuous nation.
Another object of kindred consequence, is to educate
young men of piety and promising talents, with a view
to their becoming assistant teachers of religion, or fellow-laborers with the missionaries, in propagating the
Gospel of Jesus Christ among their destitute and dying
countrymen, and throughout all the islands of Polynesia.
These objects are being steadily accomplished. In
fulfilment of the first end, besides acting as teachers
and filling important places in the government, the
graduates are doing something towards making books
and forming a national literature. They have had not
a little to do in framing the present Hawaiian code of
laws, and their communications to the Kumu Hawaii,
Nonanona, and Elele, three native newspapers, have
been numerous and often pithy.
It was members of the Seminary, also, who furnished
the written matter from which Mr. Dibble compiled the
We regret our inability to place beside this catalogue the list of publications issued from the Catholic press. We have never met with but
two or three small publications printed at that press, and they were
most strictly confined to the peculiar tenets of the Iomish Church.




224       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
volume called Moolelo Hawaii, or Iiawaiian Annals,
which has been the groundwork of two of the Histories
since written in English. A valuable article on the
Decrease of Population was furnished by the intelligent
native, David Malo, now a licensed preacher of the
Gospel. Several of the Lahainaluna graduates have
been licensed also from time to time as Evangelists.
And in December of 1849, there was seen the first instance of the ordination and installing of a native minister, as the independent pastor of the Congregational
Church at Kahuka, island of Oahu. This was in the
person of Rev. James Kekela, a graduate of the Seminary, at which he was for several years a beneficiary of
James IHunewell, Esq., of Charlestown, Massachusetts.
The first teacher at Lahainaluna, Rev. L. Andrews, has
in his possession a mass of old Hawaiian meles (songs)
which he gathered and wrote down with much care
from the mouths of natives. They are somewhat after
the style of the old Greek Rhapsodists, and they are
said, by competent judges who have seen them  in
manuscript, to be good specimens of the decent sort of
unwritten Hawaiian Literature, containing the curious
jumble of Hawaiian mythology, and all the Norse-like
fables of their giant kings and gods. But like the talk
of Gratiano in the play, it is all an infinite deal of confused nonsense and nothing. All that's worth preserving is as two grains of wheat in two bushels of
chaff; you shall seek all day ere you find them; and
when you have them, they are not worth the search.
A later mnele, on the creation, by Ke-Kupuohi, an old




ORIGINAL ODE ON THE CREATION.                225
chief woman of Hawaii, composed after having read,
for the first time, the first chapter of Genesis, Mr. Andrews translated, as follows:
A MELE ON THE CREATION.
God breathed into the empty space,
And widely spread his power forth,
The spirit flying, hovered o'er;
A spirit'tis, a shadow of what is good,
A shadow of heaven is the Holy Spirit.
His power grasped the movable, it was fast,
Fast was the separating mass, lest it should move;
It moved not, God made it fast:
It was fast by the power of His will.
The earth became embodied,
The islands also rose, they rose to view,
The land was bare of verdure,
And desolate the earth.'Twas earth alone;
Earth also was man,'Twas God that made him,
By him also were all things made.
He caused to grow the verdure;
The earth was decked with beauty.
He adorned with flower the shrubs:
Beautiful was the earth
From the hand of God.
God made this wide-extended heaven;
He made the heavens, long, long ago;
He established the heavens a dwelling-place;
He dwelt alone, Jehovah by himself,
The Spirit with him.
His power created multitudes,
Thousands, myriads, numberless,
Until the heaven was full, and full the eartha;
10*




226         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Filled with righteousness, with power, with goodness,
With glory, with holiness, with mercy;
Great were all his works.
Through God's abounding goodness,
Vast are the extended heavens,
Great are the heavens and the earth,
Great are the mountains, and the sea;
The work of God alone,
And his alone the power.
He fixed the sun his place;
But the islands moved, moved the islands,
WVith sudden, noiseless, silent speed;
-We see not his skilful work:
God is the great support that holds the earth.
One of the graduates of the Seminary wrote an
ode, a sort of funeral elegy, on the death of a son of
Dr. Judd, a translation of which is inserted in Mr.
Jarves' History of the Sandwich Islands, that is truly
touching and beautiful. Some others have occasionally
appeared elsewhere that possess considerable merit.
I have been not a little amused with perusing some intercepted letters that passed at one time between sundry
lads of the Lahainaluna Seminary, and certain of the
lasses of Lahaina. They are too good specimens of the
Hawaiian madrigal, and of an Hawaiian's sensibility
to love, to pass unnoticed.  We transcribe some extracts, taken down as Rev. iMr. Alexander, the missionary teacher, was interpreting them for our amusement.
The first is from one of the damsels of Lahaina, to her
lover, up at the Seminary.
Love to you, who speakest sweetly, whom I did kiss. My warm
affections go out to you with your love. My mind is oppressed in




SPECIMIENS OF NATIVE LETTER-WRITERS.          227
consequence of not having seen you these times. Much affection
for thee dwelling there where the sun causeth the head to ache.
Pity for thee in returning to your house, destitute as you supposed.
I and she went to the place where we had sat in the meeting-house,
and said she, Let us weep. So we two wept for you. And we
conversed about you.
We went to bathe in the bread-fruit yard: the wind blew softly
fromn Lahainaluna, and your image came down with it. We wept
for you. Thou only art our food when we are hungry. We are
satisfied with your love.
It is better to conceal this; and lest dogs should prowl after it,
and it should be found out, when you have read this letter, tear it up.
FPROM ONE OF THE LADS, BOKI.
Love to thee, thou daughter of the Pandanus of Lanahuli. Thou
hina hina,* which declarest the divisions of the wind. Thou cloudless son of the noon.-Thou most precious of the daughters of the
earth.-Thou beauty of the clear nights of Lehua.-Thou refreshing fountain of Keipi.-Love to thee, 0 Pomare, thou royal woman of the Pacific here. Thou art glorious with ribbons flying
gracefully in the gentle breeze of Puna. Where art thou, my beloved, who art anointed with the fragrance of glory? Much love
to thee, who dost draw out my soul as thou dwellest in the shady
bread-fruits of Lahaina. 0 thou who art joined to my affection,
who art knit to me in the hot days of Lahainaluna!
Hark! when I returned great was my love. I was overwhelmed
with love like one drowning. When I lay down to sleep I could
not sleep; my mind floated after thee. Like the strong South
wind of Lahaina, such is the strength of my love to thee, when it
comes. Hear.me; at the time the bell rings for meeting, on
Wednesday, great was my love to you. I dropped my hoe and ran
* Supposed to mean a beautiful flower that grows on the tops of the
mountains, where sea and land breezes meet.




228         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
away from my work. I secretly ran to the stream of water, and
there I wept for my love to thee. Hearken-my love resembles
the cold water far inland. Forsake not thou this our love. Keep
it quietly, as I do keep it quietly here.
A THIRD FROM ONE OF THE STUDENTS.
Love to thee, by reason of whom my heart sleeps not night nor
day, all the days of my dwelling here. O thou beautiful one, for
whom my love shall never cease. Here also is this-at the time I
heard you were going to Wailuku, I was enveloped in exceeding
great love. And when I heard you had really gone, great was my
regret for you, and exceeding great my love. My appearance was
like a sick person who cannot answer when spoken to. I would
not go down to the sea again, because I supposed you had not returned. I feared lest I should see all the places where you and I
had conversed together, and walked together, and I should fall in
the streets on account of the greatness of my love to you. I however did go down, and I was continually longing with love to you.
Your father said to me, Won't you eat with us? I refused, saying
I was full. But the truth was, I had eaten nothing. My great love
to you, that was the thing which could alone satisfy me. Presently,
however, I went to the place of K-, and there I heard you had
arrived. I was a little refreshed by hearing this. But my eyes still
hung down. I longed to see you, but could not find you, though I
waited till dark. Now, while I am writing, my tears are dropping
down for you; now my tears are my friends, and my affection to
you, O thou who wilt forever be loved. Here also is this: consent
thou to my desire, and write me, that I may know your love. My
love to thee is great, thou splendid flower of Lanakahula.
Now we have no hesitation in saying that these lovelorn products of Lahainaluna and Lahainlalo, meant for
the eye of the loved alone, but accidentally brought to




SAMPLES OF THE HAWAIIAN MADRIGAL.           229
my inspection, will compare favorably with many a
sonnet, of world-wide notoriety,
"Made to his mistress' eyebrow,"
by the poet-lover, in lands of chivalry and song. They
are the strictly natural, unsophisticated, and therefore
by no means silly effusions of the youthful Hawaiian
mind, under the liquescent process of that almost universal mental solvent, of which Coleridge says,
All thoughts, all passions, all delights,
Whatever stirs this mortal frame,
All are but ministers of love,
And feed his sacred flame.
Perhaps it is hardly fair to make such a use of intercepted Hawaiian madrigals, but they will have interest for the curious and the philosophic, as well as for
the swelling heart of youth, because they prove, if
nothing else, how the human mind, under the sway of
the passion of Love, as well as under the teachings of
Religion, expresses itself after the same way, and evinces
the same phenomena, whether in polite Greek, or protean English, or simple Hawaiian.
Let us now compare with these sui generis specimens of Cupid's Epistolography at the Sandwich Islands, the following epistles from the same part of the
world elicited by only the ordinary sentiments of sincere friendship, gratitude, and Christian esteem.
HILO, HAWAII.
Love to you, Mr. C ——. Great is our love to you, in consequence
of our dwelling together so pleasantly at Hilo here. Therefore,
for our love to you, we have made a palule for you.




230         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
We remember all your words, and your commands. It is our
mind to keep them all.
This also.-We are living together pleasantly and in peace, we
school-girls of Mrs. Coan. If you should hear we are doing those
things which are not right, then your heart would be heavy.
This also. —We remember our pleasant walks with you in Hilo.
Will you pray much that we may live in the peace (literally, cool
shade) of our Lord?
By the waves and the winds of the ocean is borne this our thought
of love to thee.
From the girls of the Boarding-school at Hilo.
By me,
KALAMA.
KOHALA, HAWAII.
Love to you, Mr. C-. This is my thought of love to you. I
declare it to you on this white paper, and with this black ink, that
it may be carried on the wing of the wind. Great love to you, in
whom is the Spirit of God. This is what I know of you. You
have given us a bell for our meeting-house.
These are some also who have assisted us in building our house;
the King, whose is the kingdom, gave only sixty dollars; and the
Governor of this island gave only forty dollars, and the members
of the church have given only their ninepence and their twenty-five
cents! But your present is a bell! That is like-how many dollars? Therefore my love for you has burst forth, and I have thought
to write to you. Great indeed is your love for us!
Our meeting-house is finished. It is thatched with ki-leaf on the
sides and ends, and with cane-leaf on the roof. It is filled with
seats, and most of it is floored with boards; a little remains.
This also I declare to you. There is trouble in the church.
Some of the brethren have been drinking sour potato and smoking
tobacco.  By-and-by, perhaps, the punishment of God will fall
upon us of Kohala, if we do not run into Him for shelter. The
people of Kona and Kau were guilty of this sin before, and God is




LETTERS F ROM MEN OF KOHALA.              231
punishing them. There is a great famine there, and after years, or
months, perhaps, so it will be here. The beginning of this evil was
with the land-officers. This it is that I declare to you. Tell to us
some of the wonderful things done in your land. My thought is
finished.
By me, a pupil of E. Bond's when you were here in Hawaii.
PAHIA.
KOHALA, HAWAII.
Great love to you, Mr. C-, our father in the truth. Love and
blessing to you because of your love to us and your great kindness.
Because also of your stirring up the brethren in the United States
to that which is wanting to our new meeting-house in Kohala.
We are very happy in having received it, (i. e. the bell,) and in
hearing its voice-a strange voice! Ended now are the old things.
The horn (shell with which they formerly called to meeting) is
nothing now! for here is the bell!
Concerning the bell my word is done.
Here is this new thought. I declare it to you. Blessed are we
in having obtained a new meeting-house! It is an excellent house!
It has a floor of boards, nice windows, and is full of good seats.
All our wants are now supplied in this house.
Here is this new thought, too. We have a singing-school here
in Kohala now; there are a great many pupils. By-and-by, perhaps, we shall understand this good work. If the pupils are attentive they will know well. That's done.
This, too, is another thought. The brethren are awaking. A
great many now attend meetings on the Sabbath and on other
days. Some who had fallen into this sin and that sin, have returned
again.
This is my very last thought to you. Love and peace be to you
in the Lord Jesus. I remember you in my prayers to God for you,
because of illness in your body, and because of our meeting here
in Kohala. And I praise God, too, that he has given both to us




232        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
and to you blessings for our bodies and our souls; to us a teacher
and the Sabbath, His word and good things a great many.
I, with respect,
KILAKAU.
From a number of other curious and original manuscript specimens of the Epistolary Literature of the
Sandwich Islands in my possession, I select the following to a society of American ladies, friends of the Rev.
Mr. Bond, who had sent out to him a box of readymade clothing for the use of his school-boys. Their
short way of naming their teacher is not from any want
of politeness or of reverence, but is peculiar to the
nation.
Hawaiians generally know nothing of the titles Mr.
and Madam, or of Christian and surnames united.
Thus, in speaking to or of Rev. M/Ir. Thurston, they
would say Kak1'ina, the nearest sound to Thurston they
can utter. And so of his wife they would say KakinaWahine, the woman Thurston, or Thurston's wife. This
is curt enough, and there must be great advance in the
arts of civilization before they will come to Rabbi,
Rabbi.  The expression " great, perhaps," may be
taken, if the reader please, to indicate that they meant
to keep clear of all flattery, and not to speak positively,
where, after all, a very moderate degree cf love might
have sent the garments. It will be noticed that they
know when they have done, a thing that cannot be always said of either speakers or writers.
Love to you, Ladies of Hallowell, in America. Great is your
kindness to us, in giving us the pantaloons for ourselves, and the




COMMUNICATIONS TO LADIES IN AMERICA.    233
shirts also. We are now clothed in the garments you have so generously given us, the boys in this High-school of Kohala. Great,
perhaps, is your love towards us, and therefore have you sent us
these fine garments. Love to you all, from the greatest to the least
of you. This thought is done.
Here are some of the things we are doing in Bond's school:
We rise early in the morning, wash our faces, and go to meeting,
(our morning prayer-meeting;) and when we return, we read in the
Holy Bible. At the ringing of the bell, we go into school; and
when school is out, we eat; and afterwards go to work. We have
finished one half of the garden and the paths. The work we have
done looks very nice, and the many things also growing in the garden are beautiful.
Here is another thought for you. What kind of a country is
yours?  Very good, perhaps, and pleasant, and not hot; and the
living there, too, is agreeable, perhaps.
This thought is finished.
By me,
KEKIPI.
IOLE, KOHALA.
Where are you all, Ladies of Hallowell, in America?
Great is my joy and my desire for the good work done in your
country, and for the undertakings there, and for the building up of
the kingdom of Jehovah. This, also, for your aiding us with pantaloons and shirts. You are very generous, we should say. That
is your character. Bond has given them to us who dwell in these
mean houses and in these tattered garments.
This is the reason of our miserable houses and clothes-the darkheartedness of our fathers. They did not know the God of heaven,
but they worshipped lying gods. They knew not Jehovah, the God
that made heaven, and earth, and all things. Therefore is the ignorance of the present race of people in these Islands. Because
also of their great unbelief, and their prayers made with the mouth
only. They have not prayed with hearts confessing to God.




234        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Here, also, is a thought-to tell you of the labors of our teacher.
These are a great many, stirring up the church, teaching in the
teachers' school, and in the Sabbath-school, and in the High-school
of Kohala, Hawaii.
My letter is finished.
By me,
KALAMA.
There is much meaning in one of the sentences of this
last writer, who is an assistant teacher with Mr. Bond:
" Because also of their great unbelief, and their prayers
made with the mouth only; they have not prayed with
hearts confessing to God."  Alas! of how many is it
too true, elsewhere the world over, in the words of that
Scripture: T8is peopGle draw near me with their mnouth,
and with their lips do honor me, but have removed their
heart far from me, and their fear towards me is taught
by the precept of men.
But have removed their heart far from me! Missionaries are tried with this in the native churches, and it
grieves them deeply. But the foreign piety at the Islands has much more of the professional and heartless
in it, than that which is native-born. There are certain
professors of religion who, with a name to live, do show
in their walk so little interest in any thing that pertains to life and godliness, that one can hardly believe
otherwise than that the heart of their religion is quite
eaten out, or dried up. They have a state of the spiritual being like marasmus or atrophy of the body.
If their piety has not completely run out and washed
away, you cannot feel any pulse to prove they have a




NATIVE AND. FOtREIGN PIETY COMIPARED.    235
heart left; and the principle of spiritual life, if by bare
possibility it do yet exist, is so feeble and low, that they
are little better than dead.
Hence, though living in the midst of a people just
emerging from  heathenism, where the results of the
Gospel are so benignly shown, and owing their own
safety and well-being to that Gospel, they yet manifest
no interest in the missionary's religious work, are never
seen at the monthly concert or any prayer-meeting,
give nothing for the propagation of religion among Hawaiians, have no love for the souls of natives or uncivilized humanity anywhere, and would willingly see
the whole race melt away, and their place supplied by
a stock they could have more complacency in.
The same is true of some visitors, and yet more transient residents at the Islands, professing piety. They
do not make themselves acquainted with the nature,
the trials, or the rewards of missionary work. They
share in missionaries' hospitality, and avail themselves
of their aid in travelling from place to place, but have
little or no sympathy with them in their cares and
efforts to Christianize the people.
They see them at their homes generally comfortable
and happy, sometimes forming some of the happiest
domestic circles in the world. But they do not enter
at all into their motives as missionaries, their anxieties,
harassments, responsibilities, toils, and cares. They see
in the natives a great deal that is offensive, squalid, and
still heathenish.
Heathenism, barbarism, and the state of nature, when




236        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
you come to be in contact with them, are stripped of
all the romance that is apt to invest the life and work
of a missionary afar off; and those persons not having
either depth of piety, or love for souls, or sufficient of
riddance from selfishness, to become interested like the
missionary in the personal work of instructing and converting them, are actually, in practice, less engaged in
the cause of missions than they were in America. And
very likely they may go home and have less sympathy
for missionaries, less charity for heathen converts, and
less regard for the great enterprise of the world's evangelization, than they had before visiting this most highly favored missionary field.
But is it with good reason? No! but because having
eyes they see not, having ears they hear not, neither do
they understand or appreciate missionary work, native
character, or the allowance that is to be made for early
training, and the modifying effect even upon true experimental piety, of old bad examples, usages, habits,
and polluting associations.
I write not without a meaning and a reality of fact in
the mind's eye, and I cannot help recommending such
persons to anoint their eyes with the eye-salve of truth
and charity, that they may see; to get the crust of
worldliness and vanity rubbed off from their religious
sensibilities, which is so apt to form here, and to resort
earnestly to the medicine of God's word and prayer,
in order to work off from their systems the poison of
scandal, which both travellers and residents have been
heretofore wont to imbibe at the Sandwich Islands.




THE BENIGN EFFECT OF MISSIONS.        237
I close this chapter of unique Hawaiian letters with
one more from  a native teacher, of whom Mr. Bond
says in forwarding it, " The writer is a fine young man,
one of our most promising teachers. His own entirely
was the thought to write you, and, according to his
request, I translate hastily the epistle."
The spirit of piety it breathes, and the vein of Christian simplicity that runs through it, make it well worth
preserving. And could all my readers see the original
communication, in its clear, legible handwriting, and
in a vernacular which, but for the missionaries, would
still have been kept sealed to all but oral expression,
they would wonder, even more than men do now, at the
strange misrepresentations of some persons that the
Hawaiians are not a Christian people.
It is a matter of thankfulness that our honored
American missionaries there resident, are too strongly
rooted both in the confidence and affection of the
American Church and nation, for the slanderous aspersions upon the results of their labors to be for a moment
believed. The success of the Missionary enterprise, as
demonstrated at the Sandwich Islands, is beyond a
doubt; and there are thousands of hearts devoutly
thanking God for it every day, and praying fervently
that the same glorious results may be realized everywhere.
HALAULA, KOHALA.
Love to you, Cheever, who hast sent your love and good wishes
to us. Your letter was received by Bond. in November, and on the
Sabbath after the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper, the brethren of




238         LIE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
this church in Kohala heard of it. Bond declared it to us, and also
the famine in Ireland and Scotland, by which men have died.
This I declare to you: it is a hot season with us in Kohala. The
ground is very dry because of the sun, and has been so these seven
months. Yet we are not greatly distressed for food. The water in
the streams is dry. God has indeed granted us a few drops of
water from the cloud-place, and the food is benefited thereby. The
food, however, is scanty-very little. Even in kalo lands, where
there is always water, the kalo-patches are drying up, and the potatoes near the streams.
The Chinaman's sugar-cane near Bond's house is fed up to cattle.
It is entirely dry. The Chinaman thinks he shall leave Kohala.
That thought is done.
Your aloha, (the bell,) here it is with us who are here. It calls
us on Sabbath, Wednesdays, and Saturdays; but here is our fault:
we do not obey its voice; children and parents who go to meeting.
Bond said, "When the bell rings let all come in;" but we do not
so; some go in a little while after the bell has done ringing, and
some stay out. For all meetings it calls us with its ringing voice.
It can call us as far as three miles. Bond's scholars do not have
to blow the conch-shell with their mouths now.
Your love it is that rings constantly; pulled by the hand, it
sounds.'Much love to you, because of your good counsel to us in the
work of the Lord. Great was my love to you when I heard from
Bond this declaration, " Cheever sends love to you, brethren of Kohala. He says he shall not forget you who live here." Then this
was my thought to you-Thou art sweet honey to my mind; as
cool refreshing water from far among the hills.
Pray to God for us, you and the brethren, that we may not come
into distressing famine and death, as we have heard about the suffering in Ireland and Scotland; but that we may prosper, as does
the country of your birth. That great country aids Great Britain
with love, and according to the greatness of intelligence in your




INGENUOUSNESS OF THE HAWAIIAN MIND.    239
land, in carrying to them without avaricious motives. That just
consists with God's word, Matthew v. 45-" That ye may be the
children of your Father which is in heaven; for he maketh his sun
to rise on the evil and on the good, and sendeth rain on the just
and on the unjust;" and 1st Timothy vi. 17, 18-" Charge them
that are rich in this world, that they be not high-minded, nor trust
in uncertain riches, but in the living God, who giveth us richly all
things to enjoy; that they do good, that they be rich in good works,
ready to distribute, willing to communicate."
Your people have shown love for man, for the spirit-thing. Great
indeed was my joy in hearing about it. Great is my love for those
who are dying in such distress. We have prayed in monthly concert for the perishing, and have pledged ourselves to aid them.
God will bless those whose country is distressed by famine. May
he grant them a fruitful soil, that food may grow abundantly, even
as the United States has contributed in behalf of Great Britain.
Love to you, my friend, in the cause of the Lord Jesus Christ.
Pray for us just as we do for you. With Jesus is everlasting love.
Amen.
By me,
JOHN WILLIAM KAILIHALAPIA.
Now we challenge the production of any thing in
the early annals of nations, more demonstrative of the
genuineness of their evangelization, than such ingenuous,
childlike workings of the native Polynesian mind, in
the first generation after it has come forth in its graveclothes, as it were, out of the utter darkness of heathenism! The course of Divine Providence and grace, in
the regeneration of the Sandwich Islands, is a subject
for adoring wonder, gratitude, and praise; and the developments of the intellect, as well as of the resources
of the Islands under the benignant, productive, yea,




240          LIFE IN THE SANDW)ICH ISLANDS.
creative influences of the Gospel, should be matter of
deepest interest, even to the mere philosopher.
Witness, also, the following from  six native female
converts at the Sandwich Islands, accompanying a bedquilt by them  made and sent to the New York IHome
for the Friendless:
KALUAALAO, October 29th, 1849
Our love to you, good people, who live in the great city of New
York. This is our writing and request unto you, that you give unto
those persons dwelling in the House of the Friendless, and orphans,
this small gift, which we send unto you.
This is our gift, that we give unto you, one bed-quilt. This is
our gift, and with it, we send the love of our hearts unto you, in
whose hearts such love has sprung up, for the fiiendless ones and
the orphan children. We are but few who have joined in this work,
but having heard from our teacher what you were doing, we met
together, and made a quilt for you to help you in your good work
for the Friendless and the Orphans.
No one prompted us to do this thing, we did it of our own accord.
It was not the rich, it was not our chiefs, it was not our teachers,
that commanded us to do this; no, it was from the overflowing love
of God in our hearts that compelled us to do it; it was of our own
free will. We are not rich who do this, in this world's riches, but
have been made rich by the Holy Spirit of God, as we hope, and
therefore we wish to aid you in your good work.
Yours truly in behalf of the others,
W. KALUNA.
Of a later date is the following, acknowledging the
gift of a Communion Service, consisting of four flagons,
twelve plates, twelve goblets, and two baptismal fonts,
for the two churches in Hilo and Puna, under the
pastoral charge of Rev. Titus Coan.




KUPtPANEA'S LETTER FROM HILO.             241
HILO, HAWAII, July 29th, 1850.
Salutations to H. T. Cheever, our friend in the Lord, and servant of the
Most High God:
We remember you on account of our associating with you at the
time you abode with our minister, viz., T. Coan. You were one
who desired to lead the children of God at Hilo, to wit, the church
of Hilo, island of Hawaii.
Express thou our love to thy disciples, viz., the brethren in the
Lord Jesus. Their love and beneficence have come to us. Like
your seeing our faces, so is your giving to us the articles necessary
for the Supper of the Lord, in your true love to us from the heart.
The love of God first flowed from his people dwelling in America,
in the year 1820. They conceived their thought and labor without
doubting, in seeking to pluck us out of the raging heat of death.
They endured patiently, that wandering spirits might return to the
place of rest. Their work has been great from the time of the arrival of the first American missionaries, Bingham, and others, until
the present time, the year 1850. At the time of the arrival of the
missionaries, we were living in the blackness of hearts, and in sins
so exceeding great that they cannot be expressed on this paper for
shame and pollution.
The exceeding love and benevolence of American brethren towards us is now most manifest, according to the words of Paul, 1st
Cor. xiii. 8-13.
Of the life-declaring Apostles whom they sent, first in the year
1820, one, Whitney, nearly perished in the ocean. He fell into the
sea; one threw him a board from the ship, by which he escaped,
and obtained the vessel.
They have been patient, that their mission might be fulfilled.
Two of them, Bingham and Richards, were greatly cursed by opposing foreigners, not for the evil of their works-they labored correctly-the wicked opposed them for righteousness' sake, lest their
mischievousness should be known.
Through their patience we are now living in peace. Some
11




242          LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISIANDS.
taught by them, have taken up labors to benefit the kingdom.
Some have been governors, magistrates, collectors, school-superintendents, school-trustees, sheriffs, lawyers. Some regulate their own
affairs. Every tree produces its own specific fruit, according to the
words of Jesus Christ.
That stranger and this stranger have brought hither the things
which are for his own profit to bring, and these little Islands are
now replenished with things useful to man's body. But this company (missionaries) have brought hither an everlasting treasure, a
good thing which excels all good things which our eyes have
seen.
Previous to the year 1820, our houses were dark for want of oil.
Then we obtained oil without wick, the thing to ignite the lamp;
but through the kindness of God which was made to spring up
within these true friends, they sent us some wicks to kindle our
lamps, and they now burn, and thus until 1850 their burning has
increased.*
As the abundance of your love for the souls of the wild goats
upon the mountains of the Hawaiian kingdom, so will be the greatness of God's love and blessing on you. As your thought is on
this church, so, indeed, is our pastor and true friend-not slothfulpatient amidst all the evils of the way: and this his unslothfulness
will be a capillary attraction to draw the souls of this people to
everlasting life.
Through the constant care of all your friends in this Hawaiian
kingdom for us, the nation is good, truly dwelling in blessedness
and peace.
In the name of the church at Hilo, I am your affectionate brother,
S. KUPANEA.
4 This figure may seem obscure. The idea is this: The oil brought
in 1820, was the grace or love of God in the hearts of the missionaries.
The wicks which came afterwards, were books, preaching, schools, etc.,
which helped the oil to shed light through all the dwellings of Hawaii.




WEROWERO TO QUEEN VICTORIA.              243
Other parts of the Island World of the Pacific have
furnished the materials out of which it were easy to
compile another chapter of Polynesian Literature; but
the following must suffice as a specimen of their direct
and clear way of expressing themselves in letters, in
groups of islands further south than the Sandwich.
It will be seen that their rhetoric comes to the point
very soon, turns corners very sharply, and stops short
when they have done.  The communication is from a
New Zealand Chief, and occasioned by the death of a
governor who had been sent out there by the British
Crown.
NEW ZEALANDER'S LETTER TO VICTORIA.
Good Lady Victoria, how farest thou? Great is my love to you,
who are residing in your country. My subject is, A governor for
us and the foreigners of this island. Let him be a good man.
Look out for a good man, a man of judgment. Let not a troubler
come here. Let not a boy come here, or one puffed up with pride.
We, the New Zealanders, shall be afraid. Let him be as good as
this governor who has just died. MSother Victoria, let your instructions to the foreigner be good. Let him be kind. Let him not
come here to kill us, seeing that we are peaceable. Formerly we
were a bad people, a murdering people; now we are sitting peaceably. We have left off the evil. It was you appointed this line of
conduct, and therefore it is good to us. Mother, be kind.
From me,
WEROWERO.




244             LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
CHAPTER XI.
RIDE AROUND THE ISLAND OF OAHU, AND NOTES BY THE WAY.
Portia.-Good sentences, and well pronounced.
Nerissa.-They would be better, if well followed.
Portia. —If to do were as easy as to know what were good to do,
chapels had been churches, and poor men's cottages, princes' palaces.
It is a good divine that follows his own instructions: I can easier teach
twenty what were good to be done, than to be one of the twenty to
follow mine own teaching. The brain may devise laws for the blood,
but a hot temper leaps over a cold decree.
Ai~erchant of Venice.
We return to Honolulu —Festivities of the anniversary of Independence-Effect upon
public morals-Natural hankering after the leeks and flesh-pots of heathenismConverts from paganism now and in the apostles' day, one and the same-Comparison instituted-We mount for Kaneohe —Visit by the way to the country villa of the
king and chiefs-Work, trial, and reward of the pastor at Kaneohe- Mistaken timidity in admitting to the church-Arguments for and against —Corroborative views
of Isaac Taylor-Practical working of an open church polity and a close one contrasted-Going to Egypt for the corn of scandal-Much ado about nothing-Leonato
to Antonio-We halt at Waialua-Contrasts of natural scenery-Kaneohe the supposed pit of an old volcano-Toilsome descent-Picturesque view from its brinkFace of the country between the two stations-Hospitality of a teacher at HauulaDeportment of natives met with on the way-The stale charge of hypocrisy considered-No new thing for religion to be pressed into the service of selfishnessExamples of double dealing in the Pacific, by foreigners-Prevalent forms of selfdeception among the natives-Causes assigned-Treatment of cases when discovered
-Rigor of church discipline-The usages of the church an education for Republicanism-The future Republic of the Pacific —A prophecy ventured.
ONE night's sail of seventy miles in the little government schooner Victoria, transfers us from  the college of
Hawaiian youth at Lahainaluna, Maui, to the island of
Oahu; where we find the king and his court keeping
the annual feast on the anniversary of the giving back




ANNIVERSARY FESTIVITIES AT HONOLULU.   245
to him his kingdom by the good Admiral Thomas.
Those festivities were rather inconsiderately prolonged
through three days, and cost the government much
money, besides leading to more waste and dissipation
on the part of individuals, and giving too free rein to
the sensual mind of a people just getting up from the
long debauch of heathenism.
The pastors at Honolulu found a strong current of
worldliness and sensuality setting there some time after
the feast; and there was a revival of a species of heathenism, for which some church members even had to
be disciplined. The common people, after the example
of their rulers, feasted themselves in squads.
They would get together, pray, then eat and drink,
sing meles, (old native songs,) and indulge in other excesses; and there was a strong hankering after old
heathenish pleasures, which they would like to baptize
with a Christian name; like some of the love-feasts of
the Corinthian and other converts, where one was hungry and another drunken; at which they counted it
pleasure to riot in the day-time; feeding themselves
without fear, sporting themselves woith their own deceivings, having eyes full of adcltery, and that cannot
cease from sin.
Without the Gospel, men everywhere, be they savage
or civilized, are constantly tending downward.'And
when this tendency seems arrested, and some steps have
been taken upward, there is still a gravitation in the
sensual mind towards evil, which has to be watched
against and counteracted, if we would keep an indi



246       LIFE LN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
vidual or a people progressing. Human nature, it is
remarked by Taylor, in his "Ancient Christianity,"
however much it may have been raised above its ordinary level in particular instances, has always quickly
subsided, and been substantially the same in every age
and country.
Ancient and modern heathenism are of much the
same type. The one in the Apostles' day had little to
boast over the other in this. It took longer to purge
out the old leaven from some of the primitive churches;
and many of the converts then (it is manifest from
Paul's own epistles) were not at all more stable-we
doubt if as much so —or spiritually-minded, than some
of the converts in these days at the Sandwich Islands.
A favorite ride and walk of twelve miles north from
Honolulu, brings the traveller on Oahu to Kaneohe,
one of the three out-stations on this island, of which
the population, by the late census, is twenty-one thousand three hundred and sixty-three. You turn out of
town on an excellent road near the large adobe and
grass meeting-house of the Rev. Lowell Smith, belonging to the second church of Honolulu. The scenery of
the Nuuanu Valley, with all its cultivated kalo-beds,
cascades, cottages, and romantic mountain sides, is
highly beautiful and unique.
Stewart's Journal of a Residence at the Sandwich
Islands has made it familiar to many readers. And
there is no one who has ridden through it up to the
"Pali," but can testify that his glowing description has
no more than done it justice.




TI'E KING'S VILLA IN THE VALLEY.   247
About five miles up the valley, we stopped at a large
unfinished house belonging to the king, in a grove of
ancient koa-trees, where the chief boys and girls were
rusticating a while with the family of their missionary
teachers. They make an exceedingly well-behaved and
happy company. All of them, to the number of sixteen, talk English with considerable fluency; and their
entire aspect and bearing reflect much credit upon the
fidelity and tact of their amiable guardians. The king
is fond of riding up there, and takes great pleasure in
the school, often expressing his sense of its utility, and
wishing there had been such a school for him when
a lad.
Rev. Mr. Parker, of IKaneohe, a patient missionary
there for sixteen years, up to 1850, was greatly tried
when I knew him, with the stupidity, the sensual tendency, and the disposition to deceive among his people;
and he was consequently very slow in admitting to the
church. He was of opinion then that the stone Mieeting-house which he had built by dint of hard labor,
some help from other native churches, and the savings
of his own family, would in two Sabbaths be crowded
to more than its capacity, if he should have a meeting
of those out of the church, propound a few of them for
admission, and call another meeting of inquirers.
They would think the czckuzt is now opening the pmkca
(door) of the church, if not of heaven, and would run
from every quarter to get in. There was a revival
movement in his district in the year 1844, but out of a
company of three hundred inquirers he admitted but




248        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
five, because he feared their hypocrisy, and thought he
could have more hold of them out of the church, but as
instructed candidates for it, than when in.
Since that period there has been another religious
awakening in his district, from which more fruit was
cautiously gathered into the church; and the Minutes
of 1848 show that there have been received in all into
the IKaneohe church, by profession and certificate, from
the time of its formation, three hundred members.
With all deference to the principles and conscientious
fears of the pastor there, and of a few others who think
like him, I cannot help expressing the opinion that a
very close and rigid policy, as the rule of admission to
Hawaiian churches, is a mistaken one. To say nothing
of the propriety of using all suitable means to keep up
a congregation, in order that a missionary may not
preach to bare walls, we argue that if a man preach
the true Gospel of Christ, and pray sincerely for a
blessing, and there appear at times good evidence of
the presence of the HI-oly Spirit, it is but reasonable to
believe, in the absence of strong evidence to the contrary, that this same Divine Agent completes the work
of regeneration in many souls that seem earnestly feeling, it may be, groping through thick darkness after
God.
And when, as at all missionary stations, through ignorance and imperfections, both in him who judges,
and in those whose conversion is to be judged of, the
evidence of certainty cannot be had, we do not think
that the fear of receiving some hypocrites should keep




OPEN AND CLOSE CHURCH POLITY CONTRASbTED. 249
a minister from admitting to the church a goodly number of those who seem to have been wrought upon by
the Holy Spirit, who profess repentance and faith, who
pray and abandon outward sins, and who desire to be
taken into the fellowship of saints.
Isaac Taylor very properly remarks in the IHistory of
Fanaticism, that " the duty of those, whether they be
the few or the many, to whose hands are intrusted ecclesiastical powers, is not that of a Rhadamanthus. Responsibility does not stretch beyond natural powers,
and it is quite certain that men have no power to search
each other's bosoms; nor should they think themselves
charged with any such endeavor. The pretender and
the hypocrite belong always to Divine jurisdiction; the
Church will be asked to give no account of them, so
long as they successfully conceal the fatal fact of their
insincerity. Let but a community be more or less extended in its sphere, be pure in manners-PuRE, not
sanctimonious; let the Scriptures be universally and
devoutly read by its private members, and honestly expounded by its teachers; and in this case it will be
very little annoyed by the intrusion of heretical or licentious candiclates."
If they are not so embraced and taken care of in the
Church, they are liable, weak and unsteady as the undisciplined mind is, to wander and stumble as sheep
without a shepherd, to fall at length into darkness and
sin, to lose patience and hope, and cease praying together, and to fall, perhaps, into the clutches of the
M/anu of Sin.




250       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Rather than that this should ensue with any of God's
elect, or that any who are truly seeking him should be
balked and lose their souls, it were better that many
wolves in sheep's clothing get within the consecrated
ground of the Church. The conversion of spurious
professors here is by no means so doubtful or difficult
a thing as when they get into the churches in America; and at the worst, they can be turned out when discovered.
The state of things at Kaneohe, and at the next station of Waialua, is confirmative of these views. Mlany
have become slack and indifferent, and have left off
going to meeting, saying the way to the church is long,
and have given up heart, and hope, and effort altogether.
The Catholics have a priest not far from there, and
he has gained some, together with the control of one
hundred of their children, not because they really think
the Popish way is the right way, but because, by their
own confession, they are tired of waiting upon their
kumu, (teacher,) and have an itching desire to be
sprinkled and housed in some church, with a lurking
belief-by no means unknown to wiser minds in Christian lands-that somehow they are more likely to be
saved in the Church, than unbaptized out of it.
It is natural there should be a difference of opinion
as to how such cases are to be prevented, or treated
when found, among a people with whom a profession of
religion is so popular. No one can deny that the whole
subject of admitting to the Church is beset with difficul



TWO ASPECTS OF NATIVE CHURCHES.                 251
ties.  Perhaps the more conscientious and orthodox the
pastor, the greater will be his quandary.
It is but fair that those who are interested in and
support missionaries, should be made acquainted as far
as possible with their trials, and what they have to contend with, the deceit and hypocrisy of native character,
the degradation and vileness of the native mind. If
the dark side of native character, and the dark aspect
of native churches, have been heretofore* too much withheld from the public, as some think, there is more
reason that both sides should be given now, in order
that erroneous views may be corrected, and the truth
arrived at by comparison, so far as it can be ascertained
by those who are not on the spot to see things as they
are, and as no reports can possibly exhibit them.
i Travellers -who visit missionary establishments sometimes contribute to existing errors. If they write in favor of them, they wish to
do it to some purpose; they wish, of coulse, to be popular, in an age
which asks for new and exciting matter from the press. Hence we
have seen books professing to give the state of things at the Society,
Sandwich, and even Marquesas Islands, written in a style of extravagance, adapted rather to gratify than to inform the reader. There are
other travellers who fall into the other extreme. It is a point with
them to show that the missionary enterprise does no good; that it impoverishes and depopulates the Islands, and that the natives who survive its pestilential influence are made more idle, filthy, and vicious.
The reader needs not to be informed that it is an old usage among men
to comfort one's own conscience, by an effort to lay its guilt on the back
of another. Neither does the public, we presume, need to be informed
that if any one goes down into Egypt after the corn of scandal-the
sins of missionaries-he will find the stewards of the granaries on board
his craft before he can anchor, and the sack filled, and the money also
returned in the sack's mouth-at so cheap a rate do they supply the
wants of their brethren.-Hawaiian Spectator, Vol. i. p. 99.




252          LIFE IN TIE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Therefore we have been always ready, in these pages,
to state facts as they have fallen in our way, and to
make it known when we differ as to how  difficulties
should be surmounted, and trials met; at the same time
not forgetting the proverb which says of grief ironically,
that every one can master it but he that hath it; nor
letting slip one of those sayings of Shakspeare's heroine
which I have put at the head of this chapter, I CAN
EASIER TEACH TWENTY WHAT WERE GOOD  TO BE DONE,
THAN TO BE ONE OF THE TWENTY TO FOLLOW MINE OWN
TEACHING.
We can easily point out faults and errors in others,
and commend them to patience and fidelity in suffering
and duty; but it is quite another thing always to act in
just the right way ourselves, or to be and to do what
we recommend  wisely  to  others.  How  finely does
Leonato say to Antonio in the drama of Much Ado
About NothingBrother, men
Can counsel, and speak comfort to that grief,
Which they themselves not feel; but, tasting it,
Their counsel turns to passion, which before
Would give preceptial medicine to rage,
Fetter strong madness in a silken thread,
Charm ache with air, and agony with words;
No, no;'tis all men's office to speak patience
To those that wring under the load of sorrow;
But no man's virtue, nor sufficiency,
To be so moral, when he shall endure
The like himself: theref6re give me no counsel.
My griefs cry louder than advertisement.
I pray thee, peace: I will be flesh and blood;
For there was never yet philosopher,
Tbit could endure the tooth-ache patiently;




SUPPOSED PrI OF AN OLD VOLCANO.       253
However they have writ the style of gods,
And made a pish at chance and sufferance.
There is seldom seen, even in Hawaii-nei, where the
extremes of fruitfulness and aridity often meet, a greater
difference in the external aspect of two places, than
appears at the present time between Kaneohe and WVaialua, at which latter missionary station we have now
arrived in the course of our travels around Oahu.
At Kaneohe, directly around the mission premises,
and all the way up to the lofty precipice which breaks
it off from the Valley of Nuuanu, on the Honolulu side,
there are grassy knolls, running brooks, and green
meadows of great fertility, alternating within the compass of ten or fifteen miles. There is good evidence
that the entire district was once a volcanic crater. It
is hemmed in on all sides, except seaward, by lofty
basaltic and lava precipices, just like the sides of Hale-aka-la. Nothing can be more picturesque and charming
than the first view you get of it from the brow of the
Pali.
There you stand, if the fierce rush of the trades will
let you, at least two thousand feet above the diversified
grassy basin below, and look away over the rich landscape of calm sunshine and shade, blended by distance
into a mellow unity, along the aspiring cliffs, and off
" o'er the waters of the dark blue sea," till they rise up
in the distant horizon to a level with the plane of your
eye.
The descent is so long and difficult by a zigzag in the
almost upright wall of the Pali, like the celebrated Es



2.54      LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
troza Pass in the island of Madeira, that one has to
take the best heed to his steps who will go down there.
And if a man's rectus and vasti muscles, the semitendinosus and biceps flexor cruris, do not ache after it, it
must be because his legs are made without them.
When once fairly down, the way to the station, four
or five miles, is clear over the greensward; and you
look back with wonderment at the vast walls and ramparts, of which no power less than volcanic could have
been the architect, or could ever have rent from them,
and sunk to nearly a level with the sea, the great subjacent plain over which you are passing.
The way thence to Waialua is forty miles to the
westward, along the sea, often on the beach. At the
point where you emerge from what may be called the
great crater of Kaneohe, the precipice is cut off plumb
down to a level with the sea, making a wall on your
left of eight or ten hundred feet perpendicular height.
There are several villages to be passed through where
the Catholics are numerous.
Fish-ponds are fenced-in all along, and there are
many little bays and bights of the ocean which, together with the grassy and gentle line of the coast, form
an unusual variety in Hawaiian natural scenery, and a
fine contrast to the deep cuts and bold mountains further inland. The country on all that side of the island
is well watered, and holds out many inducements for
settlement to Hawaiians; yet the population is but five
thousand, and that decreasing.
I stopped to rest and bathe at a place called Hauula,




DEPORTMENT OF NATIVES MET ON TIE WAY.  255
where a line for the teacher from Mr. Parker, procured
me entertainment as readily as if I had been an envoy
of the king. He at once unsaddled my horse, and put
him to grass, broke me a stalk of sugar-cane, baked a
fowl and potatoes, and entertained me an hour with a
simple, easy hospitality, while I used up all the Hawaiian I ever learned, and maltreated a good deal more,
in answering and asking questions.
On the way from his house, I fell in with companies
of native men and women, some of whom mistaking
the traveller for a sailor, by a pea-jacket spread upon
my saddle, behaved themselves in a way which proved
two things-both what sort of indecencies are agreeable
to the foreigners with whom they generally have to do,
and that they deport themselves very differently before
a man whom they believe to be not a missionary, nor
a missionary's friend, and one who is.
I might probably have learned more had I stopped,
and had I thought it quite right to play the part of the
character they took me for. This I could not do for
three reasons: First, the knowledge that a man's own
feelings and state of mind are very likely to become,
even against his will, those of the man whose actions
and words he imitates. Second, real truth and virtue
are unwilling to dissemble, and feel disgraced, like a
chaste virgin, to be taken for what they are not. Third,
because an honest man hates deception in any form,
and feels conscience-struck and sorry ever to allow it,
or not frankly to show what he is.
Knowledge of Hawaiians, or of any other persons,




256       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
gained in such a way, would be too dear bought, and
one had better remain in ignorance than get it at such
a sacrifice. The lawftilness of deceit for a good purpose was held by some of the Fathers, and along with
cunning priests to tend the loom, it may be said to
have woven the pall of night that covered the Dark
Ages. It is held by Romanists still. But an honest
man and a Protestant possesses in his bosom a light of
conscience, that puts to the blush such a maxim of timeserving expediency.
He knows, (says Coleridge with his usual earnestness,) that by sacrificing the law of his reason to the
maxim of pretended prudence, he purchases the sword
with the loss of the arm that is to wield it. The duties
which we owe to our own moral being, are the ground
and condition of all other duties; and to set our nature
at strife with itself for a good purpose, implies the same
sort of prudence as a priest of Diana would have manifested, who should have proposed to dig up the celebrated charcoal foundations of the mighty Temple of
Ephesus, in order to furnish fuel for the burnt-offerings
upon its altars.
You hear nothing oftener in the mouths of irreligious
foreigners, than that missionaries don't know the natives, that they don't act out before them, and that they
are great hypocrites. Now we think the missionaries
might know it by this time, through being told of it so
often, if not by their own observation. And the truth
is, they do know it well, and mourn over it, and endeavor to keep on their guard against it.




FOREIGNERS AND NATIVES COM2IPARED.             257
But they are not so ignorant of history or other men,
as to believe hypocrisy, and falsehood, and double-play
peculiar to Hawaiians.  Hypocrisy is not monopolized
by Hawaiians, nor will it die out of the world with
them.  They cannot be called a community of hypocrites with any more propriety than a foreigner should
call the people of the United States so, because ill the
first steamboat or railroad-car he might take passage in,
he should see posted up in large letters, LOOK OUT FOR
ROGUES AND PICKPOCKETS.
Other barbarians, both the instructed and uninstructed, evince as much deceit as these Hawaiians, and most
of them  more; and I have little doubt that the history
of the intercourse of white men, of Anglo-Saxons, and
Anglo-Americans with these islanders and those of the
Pacific generally,* would reveal more falsehood, treachery, and double-dealing on their part, and lead an unprejudiced mind to the conclusion that there was at
* The author of the bold Polynesian romance entitled " Typee," very
properly remarks that the enormities perpetrated in the South Seas
upon some of the inoffensive islanders well-nigh pass belief. These
things are seldom proclaimed at home; they happen at the very ends
of the earth; they are done in a corner, and there are none to reveal
them. But there is, nevertheless, many a petty trader that has navigated the Pacific, whose course from island to island might be traced by
a series of cold-blooded robberies, kidnappings, and murders, the iniquity
of which might be considered almost sufficient to sink her guilty timbers to the bottom of the sea. It may be asserted without fear of
contradiction, that in all the cases of outrages committed by Polynesians,
Europeans have been at some time or other the aggressors, and that the
cruel and blood-thirsty disposition of some of the islanders is mainly to
be ascribed to the influence of such examples.




2 58      LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
least as large an infusion of these amiable qualities in theeir composition as in that of the red-skinned
race.
Hypocrisy and deception do not belong pre-eminently
even to savages, but to human nature. They are not
the monopoly and trade of barbarians merely, but they
are diffused as widely as the human race. Perhaps
they stand out more glaringly on the page of history,
than any other vices to which men are subject.
Especially has religious hypocrisy been exhibited
wherever religion has been known, the former being,
as it is often remarked, a homage paid to the latter, of
which, indeed, it only proves the reality and excellence,
just as counterfeit dollars and doubloons in circulation
prove that there are real ones too, for no one would
take the pains to counterfeit that which was not valuable and did not exist.
And if religion has in all times, especially in highly
civilized countries, been made the stalking-horse and
shoeing-horn to selfishness, whereby unprincipled men
have ridden into place and power, why should it be
thought strange that many of the Hawaiians, among
whom religion has become popular, and a passport to
reputation and confidence-why is it strange that they
should be found running after it, and assuming its semblance, in order to get its good?
If bad men in other lands have so often made it the
cloak of sinister designs, why is it wonderful that in
Hawaii-nei natives should now and then be found trying
to wrap it round their rottenness, in order to hide the




RIGOR OF CHURCH DISCIPLINE.        259
gaping sores of their moral corruption, as well from
their own eyes as from the sight of others!
I believe this latter use is less often made of religion
here than elsewhere. When Hawaiians profess repentance and faith, and act the hypocrite, it is either as
self-deceived, or that they may get the favor of their
minister, and entrance into the Church as a means of
grace and salvation-very seldom (if we are not mistaken) as self-known deceivers, wearing the characteristic mark of hypocrisy, and in order to cover up and
carry on some ulterior design.
Often, as in all societies, after the committal they
have made of themselves has led them to break off outward sins, and they are safely housed in the Church,
and the novelty and excitement of their new estate and
relations has worn off and become stale, then iniquities
prevail against them, their corruptions return too strong
to be resisted by unregenerate human nature, they yield
and are disclosed to themselves and their brethren as
having been " hypocrites," if that term be preferred to
self-deceived and deceivers, which in this case it certainly means.
If there be not immediate repentance upon the disclosure of guilt, such persons are cut off. If there be,
they are suspended for a time, till it is clear what they
are, and then, if giving good evidence, they are restored; if not, excommunicated. Who will say that
this is not right? or who can point out a better
way?
It may be remarked here, that the usages and dis



260       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
cipline of the Christian Church are doing for Hawaiians what the same causes did for the founders of New
England, that is, preparing them for self-government
and republicanism. As the Republican State in [New
England found its germ in the Republican' Congregational Church which preceded it; and as the principle
of individual equality and representation, first practically exemplified in the constitution of the Church,
was thence transferred to the constitution of the State,
in like manner is the present generation of Hawaiians
in a process of training, under its religious teachers, for
civil liberty.
The result will doubtless be to develop the capacity
of self-government, and in due time to rear a flourishing Republic in the Heart of the Pacific. A virtual
colony as it will then be from the United States, founded by American Christianity and American Commerce
united, and linked, as it will speedily become, to our
Pacific and Atlantic seaboards by steamer and telegraph, it may suitably be adopted into the sisterhood
of American States.
Hawaiian Senators and Representatives may ere long
take their seats in the Capitol, at Washington, with
members from Minnesota, Utah, Deseret, New Mexico,
and Santa Fe. The Star of Hawaii may yet blaze in the
flag of the American Union; and the sons of her present
missionaries, together with native-born IKanaka 1Maole
from the Island Heart of the Pacific, may yet mingle in
debate on the floor of the American Congress, and the
voice of Senatorial eloquence from the luxurious tropics




BURKE ON THE BROTHERHOOD OF NATIONS.  261
may yet awaken echoes from the hardy North. May
propitious Heaven speed the augury!
And may that happy consummation of universal
brotherhood among all the nations be soon realized, of
which Edmund Burke said in his place in the British
parliament: I believe, my lords, that the sun, in his
beneficent progress round the world, does not behold a
more glorious sight than that of men, separated from a
remote people by the material bounds and barriers of
nature, united by the bond of a social and moral community.




262             LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
CHAPTER XII.
SIDE VIEWS OF HAWAIIAN CHARACTER AND DESTINY.
Polonizs. —If circumstances lead me, I will find
Where truth is hid, though it were hid indeed
Within the centre.-'Tis too much proved, that with devotion's visage,
And pious action, we do sugar o'er
The devil himself.-  amlet.
Relative position and fortunes of the posterity of Shem and Japheth-Practical bearing
upon the labors of missionaries-The ground principle of success-Variety of talents
called into exercise-How to be beloved and useful-Study of books, versus the
study of human nature-Something had and something wanting at Waialua-A
maxim gathered from observation-Management of cases of casuistry-A common
weakness commented upon-Difference of behavior between sentimental and genuine sorrow-The acting of a fine mind when sin or grief-stricken, and that of a coarse
mind-The Hawaiian infirmity illustrated by a fact-The pea-hen everywhere-Native volubility and destitution of shame-Charities of the Waialua church-A manual labor school-How established and why abandoned-W- e journey to Ewa-A successful experiment at sellf-support —Remarkable proof of disinterestedness-Progress
reported-Honor to whom honor is due —Fact and cause of the nation's decay-Alarming statistics-Report of a committee on moral reform-Responsibility of foreigners
who have fed the national vice-Moral strength of the government now and formerly-Suppression of vice the duty of magistrates-Plea of virtue and humanitySophisms of the selfish and impure —Righteous reasonings of the duke in the moral
play of Measure for Measure.
THE future of nations and of individuals is absolutely
known to Omniscience only. The issues and destinies
of ages to come, God alone can explore, on whom they
depend. A guess beyond the present, or a rational
judgment of the future by the past, is all that the wisest
of uninspired men can venture. There are thinking
men of the race now dominant in the world, who judge




ORIENTAL AND OCCIDENTAL RACES COMPARED. 263
that all the nations of the earth descended from Shemn,
(including the Indians of North and South America,
the races of Oceanica, and the kingdoms of the East,)
have already reached that point of degradation or of
fixedness observed by ethnologists, from which neither
individuals nor nations are disposed of themselves to
rise, and from which the Most High is seldom dis..
posed to raise them. They are to be irrecoverably
absorbed,-according to the prophecy, God shall enlarge
Japheth, and he shall dwell in the tents of Shem-in
the posterity of that son of Noah to whom Europe was
given.
Be it that many of them as individuals may be converted and saved, they cannot survive much longer as
nations. The decree has gone out against them —prophecy must be fulfilled. Embracing Christianity will not
save them from decay, though it may save their souls.
They have sunk too low, and have become diseased too
mortally, to be raised and live. Repentance comes too
late for their national salvation, as to a man who has
ruined his constitution by excess, past the sanative
reach of reform. The process of extermination before
the favored posterity of Japheth, is too far under way,
and too surely predetermined, to be arrested now.
Now, how much soever of theoretic truth and Scripture evidence such opinions may have for their basis,
yet, when much dwelt upon, and constantly compared
in the mind with all facts that look that way, it is
hardly possible that they should not blunt the edge of
appetite for missionary work, and disable the sword



264         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
arm  for nervous thrusts at the powers of Pagan darkness.
The mind will be naturally reasoning —M[y labor here
is comparatively hopeless and of little account; how
much better to be expending my energies for immortality upon the race of Anglo-Saxons that is to live and
inherit the earth, than upon a degraded people that are
soon to die out and become extinct, and their memorial
to perish with them!
Such reasonings, like the notions Satan started in
Paradise, when he sat
Squat like a toad, close at the ear of Eve,
Assaying by his devilish art to reach
The organs of her fancy, and with them forge
Illusions, as he listdisturb and divert the mind from its proper work;
Thence raise distempered, discontented thought,
Vain hopes, vain aims, inordinate desires,
Blown up with high conceits, engendering pride.
It is no more possible for a missionary, than for a
clergyman in service elsewhere, to pay the debt to his
profession which Lord Bacon says every professional
man owes, neisi octes atque dies in hoc studio consumat.
All his days and nights must be given to studies and
employments that have a steady bearing upon his great
work, and tend either to enlarge his capacity, or augment and burnish his intellectual armor, or to throw
the light of his individual reason and experience upon
the duties of his profession, for the benefit of others.'It is not, indeed, for one man to say to another how




THE MIISCELLANEOUS WORK OF MISSIONARIES.  265
much or how little he may diverge from his main pursuit, or whether literary diversions be compatible or not
with the duties of a missionary. AVe can only lay
down the general principle, that both ministerial and
missionary work demands the entire energies of those
who are dedicated thereto. In order to be at all eminent or successful, experience has proved that the man
must be totus in illis.  Give thyself vwholly to them-.flake fzll proof of thy ministry-Do all the work of
an evangelist-is the charge of the Apostle. To divide
the strength is to weaken it, and one's profession inevitably suffers.
Examination of the yearly minutes of the Hawaiian
MIission, and a bird's-eye view of the business they lay
out for themselves, every one or two years at general
meeting, as well as the personal inspection of them at
their several stations, would satisfy any one that there
is no chance in HIawaii-nei for laziness. There is work
enough, both professional and miscellaneous, to keep
them all busy; and there is full exercise, in one way or
another, for all gifts and talents, inventive, administrative, executive; teaching, preaching, organizing, building, improving in every way.
Some of the missionaries excel in preaching, and
some in teaching; others, again, in translating and bookmaking; and others in devising and constructing new
ways and means of operation upon the native mind,
whereby it shall develop and educate itself.
Some pastors, by reason of their impulsive, sanguine
temperaments, strong faith, and fervent zeal, are eager
12




266        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
to introduce candidates early into the Christian ordinances of baptism  and the Lord's Supper.  Others,
again, may have shown an excess of carefulness in admitting to the Church, an extreme of skepticism on the
subject of native piety, and the important lack in their
intercourse with Hawaiians, of the affable temper of
IMilton's
Sociable spirit Raphael, that deigned
To travel with Tobias, and secured
His marriage with the seven-times wedded maid.
We have put it down as a maxim  that no man can
be beloved or popular, as a missionary or a man, in
Hawaii-nei, who is not either from natural disposition,
or in default of that, from purpose and policy, particularly patient, condescending, and social in his intercourse with the people. Any one that cannot be so, or
who will not make up his mind to exercise much selfdenial, and spend considerable of his time in talking
with the natives, receiving calls, and listening to their
mnanaos, (thoughts,) had better not come.
The most beloved and best missionaries are the most
easy and gracious in their dealings with the natives.
You cannot be cold and reserved, or keep them at a
distance, without keeping away their confidence and
love. There must be much gentleness, a kind, obliging
temper, and a considerable degree of familiarity allowed, or their regard for you will be slight, and your
influence over them inconsiderable.
It is much more agreeable to nature to commune in
one's study with books, or to be enjoying the society of




THE TRUE POLICY FOR A MISSIONARY.     267
family and friends, than waiting upon ignorant though
well-meaning Kanakas, that can add nothing to one's
intellectual stores, patiently unravelling their hihicas,
(moral entanglements,) listening to the tale of their corruptions, or sitting in judgment upon their strifes. But
all this must be willingly submitted to if a man will
gain influence, and will not quite forego the fruit of his
labors. There must be a mutual love and confidence
begotten between pastor and people by these offices, or
the good that can be done is almost nothing.
There is one part of the pastor's discipline at Waialua
that commends itself as wise, and worthy of imitation
among more cultivated people than Hawaiians. I mean
the way he deals with cases both of gross and minor
delinquency, where yet the offenders are not cut off.
When church members have confessed to him sin, or it
has been found out in any way, and they seem penitent,
he confesses it in their stead, and rebukes them publicly
before the church on the days of communion, rather
than let them confess at length themselves, and lay bare
the deep ulcers of their souls, with the horrid kind of
delight that some men seem to have in exposing their
own depravity.
No careful observer who has been much conversant
with men in religious matters, can fail to have taken
notice of the secret pleasure which some persons have
in detailing their sins, criminating themselves, and minutely relating the circumstances of their guilt. You
hear such confessions sometimes in church-meetings, to
let brethren and sisters know how wicked they have




268       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
been; but it is almost always of sins that were, and
that had better be let alone, except to mourn over them
before God; seldom of those to which the man is now
habituated, and that are a real stumbling-block in his
business and family.
The pastor often listens to them with surprise and
sorrow in private. Sometimes they are protruded before promiscuous assemblies, with a wanton though concealed pleasure, to be detected by an acute observer,
arising from the self-instituted comparison which the
confessor makes, and which he supposes his hearers to
be making also, between his past wickedness and present goodness, and from the supposed imputation to himself of humility in the minds of others, for being willing to make such disclosures of his sins.
There is not a little of this to be observed in the
publicly related experiences of reformed drunkards, of
whom he is thought to be the most entertaining, and is
made the lion, who can tell the most terrible tale in his
own person, (Quce-qze ipse qziserrinzc vidi, et quorwum
pcars magnza fui,) of the degradation and woe, the
bestiality and filth, of intemperance.  We shrewdly
suspect these public experience-tellers of sometimes
adding a thing or two, like the venders of the last
words of noted pirates and highwaymen, in order to
make out a case, and horrify, and get it to go the
better.
And we think there is no small danger of the public
taste becoming vitiated by the disgusting exhibitions
that are sometimes made. Certain it is that in all such




A COMMON WEAKNESS CONSIDERED.       269
confessions, (those first spoken of,) there is more of
pride than of conscious shame, or humble grief, or glory
to God. They are alike unedifying to those to whom
they are made, and to those by whom they are made,
except for the relief they now and then give to a burdened conscience.
True shame and repentance for private sins does not
seek the meeting-house, but the closet, to confess in; not
the itching ears of men, but the ear of the all-hearing
God. It says to him, like David, Against thee, thee
only have I sinned and done evil in thy sight. If the
sin has been public, and an injury to men, then indeed
will genuine repentance suggest the reasonableness of
making a public confession, and seeking pardon of men
as well as of God. But it is, if we mistake not, with
heart-felt sorrow for sin as with deep-felt grief for some
bereavement: both seek solitude to pray and mourn
in, and ask not a stranger's intermeddling therewith.
We always conclude that an affliction is not felt very
deeply, that the barbed iron of sorrow has not entered
into the soul, when it can be spoken of with every caller
or guest, and the wound it has made in the sensibilities
handled and shown. It argues a superficial and volatile, rather than a deep-suffering mind, to be able to say
much about its sorrow. A heart deeply wounded shuns
the sympathy and sight of all but God and a few bosom
friends. Its anguish cannot be told and shared with
many. The keenly felt trial or bereavement must be
touched gently, and will not be talked about as a common theme.




270        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
It is only the sentimental and selfish mourner, pierced
but skin-deep, yet nursing its grief, fostering its slothful
love and dainty sympathy, that can be fluent and frequent upon the subject of it. Hence the language of
Cowper, who copied what he wrote from the tablet of
his own experience,
To him that e'er has felt the sting of sorrow,
Sorrow is a sacred thing.
He would not approach a sufferer rudely and drag
him into notice, whether smarting under the sting of
sin, or under the rod of God, in some providential bereavement, because experience had taught him that
alike, in both cases, the stricken sufferer seeks concealment, and wants but one Physician and one Nurse.
This is true of cultivated and fine minds, both in
respect to their sins and sorrows. But it does not hold
so certainly of the coarser sort, of uncultivated and
gross spirits. Hawaiians, especially, love so well to
appear in public, that they are pleased even to be allowed to tell their sins and expose themselves; perhaps
glad sometimes of an occasion to be haled before the
church that they may make a show.
And they like so well to talk with their religious
teacher, and to be talked to, that they will even thank
him, and manifest great complacency when he has been
giving them a proper dressing for their sins.
Mr. Alexander, of Lahainaluna, had been one day
administering a moral bastinado to a man for his wickedness. When he had done, " Aloha),"  said the culprit




HAWAIIAN INSENSIBILITY TO SHAM-E.  271
very complacently, " Pomaikai au, ua cam ailio kaua"
— love to you; I anm happy, we two halve had a talk.
And then he walked off, pocketing his reproof without
any sign of malice or displeasure.
When Hawaiians talk in meetings, or among themselves, like Armado in the play, they are apt to draw
out the thread of their verbosity finer than the staple of
their argument. In words they are never wanting, and
almost any Hawaiian can spin a yarn to any length,
whether to his Maker or his fellow-men, however pinched
he may be for the matter of thought.
Their religious teachers have to conform to their way
in this particular; so that they, too, sometimes weave a
very large piece of stuff out of a mere pinch or handful
of the raw material of thought. But such attenuated
fabrics hardly wear better, or bear more using, than the
native cloth. Perhaps there is about the same difference between right good sermons in English, and quite
common ones in Hawaiian, as between a piece of good
American domestics, and an Hawaiian kapa.
Natives now clothe their nakedness quite decently,
both in kapas and cloth, wherever foreigners are; and
it were a good sign if they were as careful, at such places,
to cover up their moral turpitude, and as much ashamed
to have it disclosed. But the truth is, when found out,
they too often manifest very little or no shame. The
blush of virtue, the genuine feeling so well described
in the old Roman word _pudor-Quidam rubor nativus
et incalescentia genuina-you seldom see.
They will often hold their heads as high after being




22 -2    LIFE In THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
exposed in gross sins as ever before. Such cases, and
the fall every now and then of persons who have had
much care bestowed on them, and for whom high hopes
have been fondly cherished, must make the heart of a
faithful missionary very sad. He has need often to say
with the Psalmist, ~ly soul, wait thou only iupon God:
rZy expectation issfromn hAin.
One of the deacons at Waialua was convicted not
long ago of having promised certain individuals to get
them  into the church for a consideration of money.
The deacon was to tell them beforehand what to say in
answer to the examining questions of the pastor.
This hookarnctani, as it is called, or deceitfillness of
Hawaiians, stumbles and distresses some of the pastors
more than is meet. To me it seems nothing more than
should be naturally expected, nor will it, we think, be
very wonderful if sin should continue to embarrass
missionaries, and unexpected developments of wickedness to give them pain, till the world's end, or the times
of millennium! Whoever thinks otherwise, or imagines,
at home or abroad, that there is any people or any situation without stumbling-blocks, or any royal way of
converting the world, is reckoning without his host. In
one shape or another, he will find everywhere the " Peahen."
The present resident missionaries at 3Waialua, of 1850,
are Rev. MI;essrs. Emerson and Gulick, with their wives.
The number of church members in regular standing is
six hundred and eighteen. Whole number admitted
from the beginning, on profession of faith in Christ,




HAWAIIAN MANUAL LABOR SCHOOL.. 273
seven hundred and seventy-three. The contributions
there, for benevolent purposes, in the two years prior to
Mliay, 1848, were nine hundred and two dollars of which
five hundred and fifty-two dollars were in cash. In the
nine common schools of the district there are ten teachers, and three hundred scholars.
A few years ago MIr. Locke had charge of a manual
labor school at Waialua of twenty-one boys, which he
was conducting with the business tact and energy for
which he was distinguished, and with efficient aid rendered by a "prudent wife."  The pupils had raised
their food, and cultivated seven acres of sugar-cane.
They ground the crops on the premises, and boiled
the juice into syrup, the sale of which more than
supported the school.
It was yet an experiment in a nascent state, but at
the time of its suspension it had cost the Board nothing,
and had a balance of several hundred dollars in its
favor. The industry and working habits of the lads,
under skilful supervision; were becoming effective, and
their proficiency in useful knowledge considerable,
through oral instruction given them while at work, and
two hours daily study.
It was fairly under way, and giving promise of great
usefulness, just as the providence of God, in the death
of Mr. Locke, broke it up. By one stroke of disease,
the vigorous wife and mother was taken away in the
midst of her days and usefulness. By another, the
robust husband and father, the youngest of the AMission,
was suddenly cut down a year after, only a few days
12*




274         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
before he was going to embark for America with his
three little daughters.
The orphans are providentially cared for and adopted
in the family of Mr. Locke's missionary associate, Rev.
A. B. Smith, now returned and resettled in the ministry
in the United States.
After nearly encompassing the island of Oahu, I have
returned to the Metropolis by way of Ewa, the station
of Rev. Mr. Bishop.  It is not far from  mid-way between Waialua and Honolulu, twelve miles from  the
one, and eighteen from the other. Besides his church,
and those at Kaneohe and Waialua, there are two others
without a resident pastor, at I-Iauula and WVaianae;* the
one having one hundred and eighty members, and the
other two hundred and seventy-one; most of whom
were set off fiom the parent churches at Waialua and
Ewa.
The church at the latter' place, by the minutes of
1848, has in regular standing one thousand five hundred and fifty-eight members. The whole number received on examination is one thousand nine hundred
and four, of whom one thousand five hundred and twelve
have been dismissed to other churches, one hundred and
* Stephen Waimalu was ordained, Sept. 25th, 1850, pastor of the
church and people of Waianae. In giving him a call to settle among
them as their pastor, they pledged themselves to raise annually for his
support $150. Waimalu is the third native who has been ordained to
preach the Gospel at these Islands within ten months.




VIEWS OF THE MISSION IN REGARD TO PROPERTY. 275
twenty-nine have died, and two hundred and fifteen
remain excommunicated. One thousand dollars were
contributed for benevolent purposes in the two years
prior to 1848.
For several years before the present experiment of
independency by the Hawaiian churches was under
way, the station at Ewa was virtually supported by the
avails of the mission herd turned to butter-making,
under the management of Mrs. Bishop.
At their General M[eeting in 1843, the MIission resolved, " That although we consider the salary allowed
us by the Board a bona fide salary, still, in our character as missionaries, we are a peculiar people, having
wholly consecrated ourselves to the Lord for the spread
of the Gospel in the earth; and however it may be
proper for other men to engage in speculations, and accumulate property, we cannot consistently with our calling engage in business for the purpose of private gain.
" 5Ve therefore deem it inexpedient that members of
our body should possess private herds, and resolve that
the mission herds be continued, and that those who are
destitute be furnished with a reasonable number of
cattle out of the herds or the funds of the mission; and
that all the cattle, horses, and carts, held by us, be
regarded as the property of the American Board, and
that the herds be not allowed to increase beyond what
is needed for the comfort of the mission."
In May, 1848, we find the sense of the Mission at
General Meeting, expressed thus: "That we consider
the salary allowed us by the Board, is to be used by us




276       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
according to our own discretion; accountable only to
God, our own conscience, and an enlightened public
sentiment; and that all rules of the Mlission which may
be inconsistent with this principle, be rescinded."
Mir. Bishop, the pastor of Ewa, was one of the first
reinforcement, along with Mr. Richards, in 1823. It
a-ffords one sincere pleasure to see the two oldest missionaries* now on the ground giving evidence, in their
vigorous health and due proportions, of having lived
happily and spent well in their good work. After
having reared families, founded churches, endured opposition, and borne the burden and heat of the day,
they are still the most hearty and hale-looking men of
the mission. May God keep them in like prosperous
estate for yet many years!
As the Senate and people of Rome used to decree
concerning the men who had done their country service,
ut rnerzissefzl bene de Republica, that they had deserved
well of the Republic, so may it be declared with like
truth of these men and their co-workers, who have continued faithful, that they have deserved well of the
American churches, in whose behalf they willingly
went on foreign service, when it was a very different
undertaking from what it is now.
Mr. Bishop has things to tell of early heathenism, and
of the habits of foreigners in those days, to make both
the ears of those who hear thereof to tingle. He was
one of the deputation that went round I-awaii with Mr.
* Messrs. Bishop and Thurs'on.




FACTS DERIVED FROM{ THE CENSUS.             277
Ellis, in 1824, and his means of becoming acquainted
with the traits and abominations of heathenism, and
self-made heathen from Christian lands, have been equal
to any man's.
It is all the more painful, therefore, to hear him avow
the opinion that the licentiousness of young people out
of the church is as great now as it ever was, and that
early depravity, more than any thing else, is depopulating the nation, by prematurely wasting its productive
powers. Out of the whole population of this island of
Oahu, twenty-one thousand three hundred and sixtythree, there are only four thousand nine hundred and
thirty-one persons under fifteen years of age. There are
only four hundred and twenty-eight families that have
three or more children, and there is not one child on an
average to a family throughout the island.
In what light the Mission generally regard it, may be
seen by the report of a committee on moral reform, as
follows: That in their opinion the present time calls for
very special and efficient measures for the suppression
of licentiousness* among this people, and especially
* A very pertinent sermon was preached at the Bethel, in Honolulu,
on the evening of the last day of 1843, by the missionary, Rev. Mr.
Armstrong. It was on the duty of foreigners to the Hawaiian nation;
the text, Jer. xix.  7: And seek the peace of the city whither I have caused
you to be carried away captives, and pray unto the Lord for it; for in
the peace thereof shall ye have peace. It was published by request in
"The Friend," and it were well to have it hung up in the shop and
office of every man that goes to live at the Sandwich Islands. Among
other excellent sentiments and duties aptly enforced, he urges it as
obligatory on all residents and visitors to oppose vice, and do all they




278          LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
among the youth, and they would recommend: 1. That
the pastors of the several churches take special pains
to instruct the parents belonging to their respective
churches and congregations upon this subject, and urge
them to provide separate apartments for the different
can to deliver the nation from it, and especially intemperance, licentiousness, and gambling. On the middle one of this triad of vices, he speaks
forcibly after this wise:
"Would you measure the evils which have come upon this people
from this quarter? Look abroad over the length and breadth of the
land, and inquire after the multitudes who once inhabited villages now
deserted —where are they? Why do you meet so few children in the
streets? and why are so many diseased, and sink into premature graves 
After lone observation and intimate acquaintance with the natives, I
am of opinion that the diseases consequent upon the vice of which I
now speak, have contributed more than all other causes put together
to depopulate these fair Islands, and produce the miseries which the inhabitants now suffer. And what it concerns us particularly to consider
is, that these diseases, with all their deadly effects, were introduced here
by the licentiousness of men from Christian lands; and for the untold evils
which have resulted from them to this unsuspecting people, such men
are responsible."
In this opinion the author has the concurrence of all the missionaries,
and of every careful inquirer into the causes of the nation's decay, and
it is with propriety that he argues at the close"If our reasoning in this discourse be correct, what a solemn account
will they have to render at the bar of God, who have taken a course
directly contrary to that which God requires! I refer to men who
have come to these shores from Christian lands, and done evil instead
of good; men whose general course of life has been to sink the natives
deeper in degradation and misery; to encourage them in their vices,
and teach them vices they never knew before, and make heathenism
ten-fold more heathenish. For all these things will not God call them
into judgment? Are those dark deeds of past years all forgotten? The
avenger of blood in Israel did not more resolutely and swiftly pursue
the man-slayer, than evil pursues such men. If they are not overtaken
in this life, they will be in the next."




THE VICE OF LICENTIOUSNESS.       279
sexes in their families, and watch over the children with
more than common solicitude in reference to this crying
sin of the land; that pastors also use all feasible means
to render the institution of marriage honorable and
popular among the people.
2. That the teachers of our seminaries and schools
form societies among their scholars similar to the plan
of "Juvenile Temperance Societies," and make vigorous effort to render the sin of licentiousness, in all its
forms, odious and unpopular. 3. That a pledge be
adopted which shall be alike in all the Islands, and that
the signers of this pledge be furnished with some badge
of their membership.
The IIawaiian government does not do so much to
suppress the vice of licentiousness at the present time,
nor is it so strong to keep good morals by law, as under
the energetic administrations of Kaahunmanu, at Honoiulu, and of HIoapili at Lahaina. With more of liberty,
the maxim is now in vogue by importation, that a man's
house and premises are his castle, and that a constable
has no right to enter them without a warrant. But
then, on the least suspicion of evil in progress, officers
would venture anywhere unresisted, and hale offenders
to justice; and so vigilant were they, that vice had to
skulk, and was driven out of many a hiding-place.
Once in the time of shipping, Hoapili sent all the
women of Lahaina off to the other side of the mountain,
and forbade their reappearing on the side where the ships
were, under the penalty of imprisonment. Government now is not so despotic, and the Hawaiians of 1850




280       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
would not, probably, tolerate a measure that a mere
word would have executed in 1824.
With written laws, and more of civil liberty and religion, there is less of personal restraint, and more freedomr on the part of the governed, to practise wicked
works with them that work iniquity. Houses of infamy
are winked at and allowed at Honolulu, on the plea
that they have become a necessary evil just as in all
other countries, and the arm of government, in which
both law and religion have vested the authority to suppress vice, bears the sword in vain as to this species of
immorality, provided only it be not caught openly.
This ought not to be, either here or in any other
State where there are good laws relative to lewdness.
For it is not one of those things of which Milton says,
" The law must needs be frivolous which goes to restrain
things uncertainly, and yet equally, working to good
and evil; and were I the chooser, a dram of well-doing
should be preferred before many times as much the
forcible hindrance of evil-doing: For God surely esteemeth the growth and perfection of one virtuous person, more than the restraint of ten vicious." But it is
a palpable and positive evil, unmixed with good. It is
evil only continually. And they, in any community,
who, having the administration of law in their hands,
do not execute it, but suffer houses that are the way to
hell, going down to the chambers of death, to entertain
the harlot and the young man void of understanding,
they are responsible for the wreck of morals, and the
ruin of souls there made. It is THEY who will have to




THE VICE OF LICE'iTIOUSNEiSS.        281
answer for the macny woundecd, yea, the strong men sla.in
there, and those guests in the depths of hell!
The plea of virtue and humanity in respect to what
is called a " necessary evil" like this, is, that the prevalence of an acknowledged vice, and the consequent
lucrativeness of pandering to it in seaport towns, are
no good reason for letting off or lightly punishing one
found guilty of it. If a crime were of such a nature
that nobody would ever be tempted to repeat it, that
circumstance might fairly be urged in bar of any severe
or exemplary punishment therefor; but to hold the
proneness of depraved humanity to any vice an excuse
for those, who deliberately devote their lives to its extension and facilitation, making it a source of affluence,
as many do in cities, and living in luxury upon its
filthy profits; or to argue gravely that brothels are a
necessary consequence of the growth of cities, and cannot therefore be suppressed, this is a perversion of
equity and good policy little short of monstrous.
Such reasoning would subvert all morality and virtue
whatever, and would excuse any crime, let it be but
common, fashionable, and well fortified. Yea,'twould
"sugar o'er the devil himself," and all his devices.
WVe commend to honorable magistrates at Honolulu
and elsewhere the reasonings of the Duke in the moral
play called Measure for Measure:
We have strict statutes, and most biting laws,
Which for these fourteen years we have let sleep;
Even, like an overgrown lion in a cave,
That goes not out to prey. Now, as fond fathers,




282          LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Having bound up the threatening twigs of birch,
Only to stick it in their children's sight
For terror, not for use; in time the rod
Becomes more mocked than feared: So our decrees,
Dead to infliction, to themselves are dead,
And liberty plucks justice by the nose;
The baby beats the nurse, and quite athwart
Goes all decorum.
CORRECTION AND INSTRUCTION MUST BOTH WORK,
EaRE THIS RUDE BEAST WILL PROFIT.




HEALTH INHALED FROSI THE OCEAN.                         283
CHAPTER XIII.
RETROSPECTIVE VIEW OF A QUARTER CENTURY IN THE HEART OF
THE PACIFIC.
GOD be with thee, gladsome Ocean!
How gladly greet I thee once moreShips and waves, and ceaseless motion,
And men rejoicing on thy shore!
0 ye hopes, that stir within me,
Health comes with you from above!
God is with me, God is in me!
I cannot die, if life be love.
S. T. COLERIDGE.
We join ship and weigh anchor-Life and the world seen firom below and from aloftDifferences in the view made by differences in the position and personal estate of the
beholder-Light fiom eternity colored by the stained glass of the mind-Hope for
the convalescent-Holding a telescope to the past-The great landmarks-Astonishing statistics of progress-Consecutive review of civilization and Christianity in the
Heart of the Pacific-Detail of results and fruits, economic, literary, andl religiousWork to be (lone projected-True relation and uses of the Sandwich Islands to
America-Necessary leaning of the one upon the other for years to come-Disastrous
effects to be apprehended if the prop should be withdrawn-The true policy of the
Christian Church in the missionary enterprise-Purposes of Providence in the Island
World-Chain of events-Outlook upon the future-Probable type of society-Transplanted Puritanism-Strict Sabbath-keeping-Anecdote of the governor of OahuFacts illustrative of national habits —First law the Decalogue-A change too great to
be credited-To whom and what the people ascribe it-Unbounded confidence reposed in their religious teachers-First experiments by the chiefs-Fruits of the
trial-Unparalleled instance of a moral ascendency-Illustrative anecdote of the present king-Traducers silenced and put to shame-Position of dignity and eminenceHow attained and the ends to be answered by it-Relations of the Hawaiian Islands
to China, California, Mexico, and South America-Vista of futurity opened-Conjectures ventured-Ground of their fulfilment —Falsehoods met-Shafts of calumny
repelled-Counter testimony-Historians noticed-Volume concluded.
liE who has had much experience of suffering and
sorrow, who has walked thoughtfully a while in the
valley of humiliation and adversity, after treading with




284       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
eager hope and ambition the heights of prosperity, or
the broad table-land of ordinary success, has learned
how differently human life and the world look, from
the contrasted points of elevation and depression.
The difference is not greater between a wide midsummer landscape, viewed from  some commanding
eminence, stretching away on one side into the distant
mellow haze of noon-tide, and on the other half hidden,
but its beauty not marred, by interposing drifts of vapor; and a part of that landscape seen close at hand
from some exposed nook in the same, where the clouds
are dropping a drizzling rain, where distance, that lent
to the view its enchantment, has passed into plain reality, and things appear barren and bare as they are,
under all the circumstances of discomfort and disadvantage that invest the place of the beholder.
There are few thinking men who have lived long,
that are so happy as not to know what a change is
made in the aspect of things outward, by changing
spirits, feelings, health, and moods of mind. There are
few who have not sojourned a while both in the lights
and shades of human life. Invisibilic non decipiunt;
but the things of time and sense, plans and prospects
of life, the aspects and colors of the world, all the
dear objects of human pursuit, continually change and
delude.
Even the best of men, whose faith in eternal realities
is constant, whose hope is steadfast in God, who have
learned to put under feet the lying vanities of time, and
to walk by a light fromn eternity, whose eye is cast up



ASSIMILATING POWER OF THE SOUL.              285
ward and onward, and their habitual aim  is to please
God-even they find the hues of feeling tinging the
objects of faith;, much more giving color to all earthly
prospects, like light falling through stained glass; and
those hues often changing with variations of bodily
health and outward circumstances.
"The soul bath power, through God's mysterious plan,
To mould anew and to assimilate
The outward incidents that wait on man,
And make them like his hidden, inward state.
If there's a storm within, then all things round
The inward storm to clouds and darkness changes;
But inward light makes outward light abound,
And o'er external things in beauty ranges.
If but the soul be right, submissive, pure,
It stamps whate'er takes place with peace and bliss;
If fierce, revengeful, and unjust,'tis sure
From outward things to draw unhappiness."
I call to mind those remarkable lines of Shelley,
worthy of a place with some of the best in Shakspeare
or 3Milton, for the extraordinary combination of delicacy
and vastness in this imagination:
Life, like a dome of many-colored glass,
Stains the white radiance of eternity.
The difference between mny own feelings while leaving
tIonolulu now, in improved health and spirits, and
those with which I approached it more than a year ago,
a weary, sea-tossed invalid, is greater than can be told.
Depressed and anxious, I was then sayingAh! what avails all other earthly good!
How tasteless whatsoever can be given,
When health and drooping spirits go amiss!




286       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
God be praised, from whose blessing it comes, that
now heart, and hope, and brighter prospects all hanging
upon that pregnant old Saxon word HEALTH, give a new
face to every thing. Brightening the eye, and investing
with its cheerful green even things external, it makes
those frowning old craters and barren hill-sides in the
vicinity of Honolulu, fairly look verdant, as I gaze on
them for the last time, while our anchor is weighing,
and recall the propitious providences and friends I have
there found.
The gentle readers who may perchance have followed
me with pleasure in these wanderings through the
Heart of the Pacific, will now take a retrospective
glance at facts, through the telescope I hold to them in
this chapter, in order that we may see what has been
done, and is now doing for the improvement of the
Sandwich Island kingdom, and to consider what remains to be done in order to complete the work of
Christianizing and civilizing the Hawaiian race.
We have spent some time at all of the nineteen missionary stations but one where there are resident missionaries, except on the island of Kauai. We have
surveyed missionary and native life under various aspects, and have become somewhat acquainted with the
modes and means of operation upon the native mind,
and their results; and with the trials and difficulties
which the missionary has to contend with.
We have mingled with the people in the house and
by the way, in the field and the school, at their work
and their play, in the meeting for religious inquiry and




STATISTICAL REVIEW OF THE MISSION.   287
at the public sanctuary. We have seen by observation
what they now are, and we have heard from others
what they once were. And in instituting our final
comparison between the Heart of the Pacific as it was
and is, or between times now and times that were, when
the first missionaries landed at Kailua, we will take the
state of progress found at the lapse of just one quarter
of a century, as indicated by a careful survey and comparison of statistics derived on the spot.
In the first place, there labored at the Sandwich Islands from 1820 to 1844, at different times, sixty-one
male and sixty-seven female missionaries, who performed in all ten hundred and eighty-eight years of
missionary service. By these there were expended
$608,865 in their outfit, support, and missionary work.
After twenty-five years from the first settling of missionaries among a race of the very lowest savages, there were
to be seen erected forty permanent dwelling-houses, two
printing-offices and binderies, with which were connected.four printing-presses; four commodious seminary and school buildings, all which, together with
large and valuable lands attached to them, were the
property of the American Board of Commissioners for
Foreign Missions.
Besides these results of Christian industry and perseverance, permanent stone Meeting-houses were found
erected at almost every station, by the united skill and
resources of missionary and people, giving and laboring voluntarily; and about three hundred and seventyfive school-houses. The Hawaiian tongue had been




288       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
mastered, we might almost say created, and reduced to
writing, and one half the adult population taught to
read. There had been established four hundred and
three public schools, in which seventeen thousand four
hundred and forty children and youth were being instructed.
The entire Bible had been translated from the original tongues, and there had been printed fifty-two thousand copies of the New Testament, and twenty thousand of the Old, besides several editions of one and ten
thousand copies of fragmentary portions of the Scriptures, before the entire translation was completed. Upwards of seventy other different works, large and small,
had been compiled and issued from the press, and the
total number of pages printed at the missionary presses
up to 1844, were twenty-two million sixty-one thousand
seven hundred and fifty.
There had been organized twenty-five independent
native churches, and there had been received to them,
on examination, thirty-one thousand four hundred and
nine persons, of whom there were then living in regular
standing twenty-two thousand six hundred and fiftytwo, being more than one-fifth of the entire population
of the Islands.
Besides these educational results that can be condensed into statistics, it shotld be added as a part of
their education as a people, that the institutions of the
Sabbath and of Christian marriage had been firmly established; government had been rendered comparatively just and stable; a good written constitution and




CONDENSED RESULTS OF EDUCATIONAL SERVICES. 289
laws had been enacted; life and property were rendered secure; the country's industry and resources
were beginning to be developed. The Hawaiian nation's independence had been acknowledged by other
nations, and it was admitted into the fraternity of
Christian States. The commerce of the Islands, that is,
the value of its commercial:;exchanges, or bills negotiated there for the supply of ships, had grown from
little or nothing to two hundred thousand dollars, while
the yearly net revenue of the kingdom had reached to
seventy thousand dollars, and the annual consumption
of foreign goods was one hundred and seventy-five
thousand dollars.
For the educational force of the nation there were
found employed at the lapse of the first quarter of a
century, as religious teachers of the Hawaiian people,
or in other missionary service among them, six unmiarried and forty married missionaries, having families
to the number of one hundred and twenty children.
There were five hundred and forty-eight native schoolteachers, themselves first taught by the missionary
educators. There were four boarding-schools or semi-'naries, having two hundred and seventy-six pupils.
There were two families formerly in the service of the
Mission changed to that of the government, but devoted to the improvement of the Hawaiian race.
What then remained to be done before the Sandwich
Islands could cease to be missionary ground, and what
still remains, in order to complete the education of the
Hawaiians, is, more thoroughly to instruct and Chris13




290        LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
tianize the common people; to train up an educated
native ministry which the people shall support; to reform the national habits of living; to inculcate upon
the sexes modesty and chastity; to efface the dreadful
characters of pollution and death, which heathenism has
been burning in for ages upon the Hawaiian constitution; to introduce more extensively the improvements
and arts of civilization; to develop the country's agricultural resources, and to foster habits and institute
new ways of industry.
In order to accomplish all this, there are needed both
religious teachers, physicians, artisans, mechanics, and
farmers, to lighten the load and do the undone work of
worn and weary pastors; to man the institutions of
learning, and to afford suitable medical aid to the people, and to the missionary stations remote from each
other, and to teach the natives all the arts of peace.
If any man think that where so much has been done
little remains to do, in the process of national instruction and elevation, and when he reads that within the
last two years the different Hawaiian churches have
contributed in cash nine thousand three hundred dollars for building and repairing their churches, supporting preaching and schools, and for other benevolent
purposes-if he infer that, therefore, the great American Education Society can soon drop their Hawaiian
pupils, we have only to say that a greater mistake
could hardly be entertained.
That we may ere long leave the pastors to be supported, after they get there, in great part by the peo



AMERICA'S DUTY TOWARDS IHAWAII.    291
ple, is undoubtedly true. But America must continue
to supply the men and their outfits, and lend also a
helping hand to educational institutions there for at
least twenty years longer, and the leading minds in the
education of the nation must be from abroad. We do
not say that if the American Church should now withdraw its aid, and send to the Heart of the Pacific no
more missionaries, that the light of the Gospel would
go out along with the lamps of life in the present ministers, and the people all go back to heathenism, or over
to the Roman Beast.
Such a result would be impossible; for truth has
made too deep an impression, and taken too strong a
hold, to be so soon effaced or uprooted. Spiritual life
would still linger here and there; and though the
leaven of the Gospel might in many cases turn sour
and become rank Romanism, yet the salt of Divine
truth would have been too widely diffused to let society
change in the mass, either into the rottenness of Rome,
or the Dead Sea of paganism.
Had missionaries there done nothing (like Schwartz
in India) butepreach the Gospel, this might be. But
they have wisely translated and printed the Scriptures,
and founded seminaries and schools; and the people
would know too much to be befooled into baptized
Romish heathenism, or led back blindfold into that
sottish form of it which they forsook. They would
probably soon fall into practical, lying infidelity, saying to them, what they like, Let us eat and drink, for
to-morrow we die.




292       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
There would be just enough Christians among them
to keep up the form of godliness without its power,
and they would retain enough of outward religion to
keep them from being feared like barbarians, by foreigners, while they would practise all uncleanness with
greediness, and foreigners would join with them in
digging the nation's grave with their lusts.
The fact that the Gospel has been fairly offered to a
nation of more than one hundred thousand souls within
much less than the period- of one generation; that multitudes have embraced it with eagerness; that many
have died ill the faith of Jesus; that many live, the
exemplary disciples of Christ, to praise him for having
ever put it into the hearts of American Christians to
send them the Gospel; and that a nation of besotted,
letterless savages has been reformed, by its living
educators, into an orderly nation of readers —all this, so
far from allowing American philanthropy in the least
to relax its efforts, is, as it were, for nothing else in the
arrangements of Divine Providence, but to give the
Church a standing proof, a visible demonstration, of
what would follow from a proportionate outlay of Christian educational agencies upon every barbarous nation
on the face of the earth. When it can be said that the
Protestant school-master is abroad everywhere, as at
the Sandwich Islands; when the teacher, the Christian
minister, the editor, and the author-those four leaders in modern civilization-are planted together among
all the tribes and families of man, as they now are
side by side in the Heart of the Pacific, the educa



PURPOSES OF PROVIDENCE IN THE PACIFIC.  293
tion of the world for its golden age will have fairly
begun.
The solid, social and religious progress of these
heaven-blest Isles of the Pacific is every day becoming
more apparent and decided; and soon will shine out
clearly the part they are to bear in the Christianization
of the great realms that border on the Pacific upon
either shore, in the track of whose golden commerce
they directly lie. Beyond all doubt, it is for some
great end in Providence that they have been so remarkably Christianized, and time will duly develop all the
links in the Providential chain of events, that shall
yoke this best American missionary experiment with
the triumphal chariot of the King of saints.
The Heart of the Pacific shall be one of its noblest
trophies, as the conquering car of Emmanuel traverses
our globe, in that dear and not distant period when the
great voice from heaven is heard, saying, Lo, THE TABERNACLE OF GOD IS AMONG MEN: THE KINGDOMS OF THIS
WORLD ARE BECOME THE KINGDOMS OF OUR LORD, AND OF
iIS CHRIST; AND HE SHALL REIGN FOREVER AND EVER.
It is natural to remark here ulpon Sandwich Island
life and religion, how the teachings and example of
missionary instructors descended from the Puritans,
and colonizing like them with their families, for a religious purpose, in the howling wilderness of heathenism, are bringing to pass a state of society that shall
prove, we trust, in due time, whatever becomes of the
native race, a reprint of Puritanism. There is the
more reason to hope for this at the Hawaiian Islands,




294          LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
if the guns of Admiral Tromelin and other French
commanders in the Pacific do only instruct all the inhabitants so effectively into the nature of Popery, that
the influence of the twenty-five Romish priests there
shall be neutralized, whose interests the fallen King of
the French (Louis Philippe) instructed MiI. Dillon and
the commanders of the French frigates to look after,
and whose fidelity in so doing, at the cannon's mouth,
Louis Napoleon has rewarded.
True missionary Protestant religion, as it appears in
the home education of the family, as it is developed in
the children of missionaries, of whom a remarkable proportion* have become Christians at the Sandwich Islands,' Should the lives of the children of modern missionaries be all written, and compared with the sons and daughters of other Christians, we
are persuaded that the preponderance of virtue, and piety, and success
in life would be found largely in favor of the former. As prosperous or
as happy as the child of a missionary, may yet become a proverb. The
children of the Sandwich Island mission, being now upward of one hundred and fifty, have thus far been remarkably favored by Abraham's
God. None of them, so far as can be learned, after much inquiry, have
turned out poorly. Many of them adorn the Christian Church. Several
of the sons have already become themselves foreign missionaries; others
are in the process of training. And of the daughters arrived at adult
age, there are already valued teachers and wives of ministers, and some
delightful exhibitions of youthful piety, that promise much for time to
come. Missionary stock will be as honorable to spring from in future
times as that of the Puritan is now. May scions worthy of their sires
be constantly rising in a long line of future posterity!
Of the whole number of missionary children living at the period when
a calculation was made, about twenty years from the first organization
of the Sandwich Island mission, eighty-eight were boys, seventy-two
girls. Total, one hundred and sixty: whole number of parents, eightyfive; of families, forty-one; so that in about two-thirds of a generation




HAWAIIAN REGARD TO THE SABBATH.         295
as it is engrafted upon the natives, as it pervades their
laws, as it bears upon their morals and upon the observance of the Sabbath, is more like strict old Puritanism than any other national exemplification of religion, which the world at present knows.
The outward keeping of the Sabbath is complained
of by foreigners throughout the Islands, as puritanically
strict, and it is undeniably much more so than in England or America at the present time. It is called the
La Tabu, or the prohibited sacred day. No food is
cooked on that day, it being all prepared on the Satur.
day previous, no fires are kindled, no canoes are paddled. They neither fish nor till the land, and if they
are on a journey, they uniformly stop over the Sabbath.
I remember to have been at a missionary station when
the church in full assembly, and not moved to it immediately by their pastor, adopted this resolution:
"That where the Sabbath finds us on a journey, there
we will stop and keep the holy day."
Commander Wilkes, of' the United States Exploring
Squadron, found considerable inconvenience in his ascent of the great mountain of Mauna Loa, the highest
volcanic dome in the Pacific, from the natives' unwillingness to travel or work upon the Sabbath. This
is owing in part to the fact that when the chiefs, in
the process of instruction by their religious educators,
the increase has been one hundred and seventy-five per cent. At the
same ratio of increase the descendants of these missionaries in one hundred years would amount to 59,535.




296       LIFE IN THIE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
began to feel the necessity of having some written laws,
and asked the missionaries very naturally what they
should be, they gave them a copy of the Decalogue, then
recently translated. This the chiefs said was MmIATKAI,
i. e. good, and thus the Ten Commandments became
the law of the land; and they are in force to this day,
along with other written laws; so that a man is fined
for unnecessary travel or work on the Sabbath.
The present rulers of the land, as well as the common people, know and acknowledge that it is to their
missionary teachers, and the law of their God, that they
owe every thing. The confidence they repose in them
is, therefore, unbounded, and they sometimes evince a
gratitude and love that are truly affecting.
From  the outset of the missionary enterprise, the
chiefs watched the missionaries with a scrutinizing eye,
and agreed to let them stay only for a stipulated time,
having their fears awakened by the insinuations and
libels of malicious foreigners. The result of the trial
was perfectly satisfactory. They became thoroughly
convinced that the missionaries were their true friends,
having no end but their good; the confidence which
they then learned to repose in them has never yet been
shaken.
Among the common people, too, there are not a few
who would at any time put their own lives in jeopardy,
in order to defend their religious teachers. This has
been practically put to the proof in several instances,
when the safety of missionaries has been endangered
Dy the brutality and malice of licentious' foreigners,




ANECDOTE OF THE HAWAIIAN KING.        29T
balked in their hopes of being able to give such full
swing to passion as they once could, before the moral
influence of missionaries had become so great upon
chFiefs and people.
The present king, Kamehameha III., was called upon
one day a few years ago, by a lawless and rough whaling
captain, a lewd man of the baser sort, much oftener
met with then than now. He made no concealment of
his dislike to the missionaries, and well knowing the
king's former fondness for wine and libertinism, he
urged him to cut loose from the restraints of the missionaries, and allow himself and people the same indulgences as formerly.
"Stop, (said the king,) did not your shadow fall on
me as you came in there at my open door?" " Perhaps
it did, and what of that?" " What, but if it had not
been for the missionaries, you, or any one else whose
shadow should thus fall on the king,* would very likely
be a dead man the next hour."
This significant and unexpected turn put the stopper
so tightly to the foreign captain's anti-missionary venomz, that he had no more fault to find in that presence
with the king's religious teachers.
He chose this method of expressing his approbation
of the missionaries, and his confidence in them, well
aware of the common imputation of their meddling
in his politics, an imputation which was never true
* Alluding to one of the ancient tabus in force before the establishment of Christianity1
13*




298       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
in any other sense than is both honorable and meet
for both. Very happily neither the King, nor his
friends the missionaries, see any reason why the latter
should avoid being implicated, by advice and recommendation, with government measures that are wise
and good.
The present dignified and Christian position among
the nations, of the Sandwich Island King and people,
has been obtained under missionary guidance and ascendency. It is a position in a sense prophetic, as well
as preparatory to the mission, yet to be fulfilled by them
in the grand evolutions of Providence along the line of
human redemption.
The unprecedentedly rapid and thorough evangelization of these Islands is not an event, which is to stand
alone in the history of human progress, and of the Gospel of Christ. It has relations to Japan, to China, to
Northeastern Asia, to California, to Mexico, and South
America, that are yet to be unfolded, perhaps to the
astonishment of the world. Through them may the
prophecy yet be fulfilled in reference to Asia —GoD
SHALL ENLARGE JAPHETIH, AND HE SHALL DWELL IN THE
TENTS OF SHEM.
This at least we may rationally conjecture, that it is
for some great and wise end, which may soon appear,
that the Heart of the Pacific has been so wonderfilly
prepared by Divine Providence and Grace. As an admitted voluntary member of the American Confederacy,
it may soon become the great missionary printing d6p6t
for Eastern Asia, Japan, and its archipelago of islands,




THE MISSIONARY S POST OF HONOR.       299
whence the word of God and the living missionary
teacher shall make their grand entry into those wide
realms of paganism, by a line of trans-Pacific American
Steamers.
These lone islands of the Pacific, all unknown as they
were to the whole civilized world, until the era of the
American Revolution, may soon become such a centre
of light, and civilization, and moral power to the vast
regions bordering upon the Pacific, as the British Isles
have been to the countries bordering upon the Atlantic.
If the men who have been instrumental in establishing Christianity there, do but labor on contentedly with
all their might, we believe it will be found ere long
that they and their native churches are having a mission to fulfil, in the work of bringing the pagan world
to Christ, second to that of no other church in Christendom. The time may be near at hand, when it will be
a greater honor and privilege to have preached the
Gospel faithfully at the Sandwich Islands, and that, too,
in the despised vernacular KANARA MAOLE, than to have
filled ambitiously the best Anglo-Saxon pulpit in England or America.
We say, then, with a slight accommodation to the
noble island-band of devoted missionaries who have
been laying the foundations in the Heart of the North
Pacific for many generations, as it was said by Milton,
of the Puritan hero,
Great things, O Islands, we expect of you!
Firm, faithful men of God, who through a cloud
Not of war only, but detractions rude,
Guided by faith and matchless fortitude,




300           LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
To peace and truth your glorious way have ploughed,
And on the ground of pagan temples proud
Have reared God's trophies, and his work pursued!
*    *    *    Yet much remains
To conquer still; peace hath her victories
No less renowned than war: new foes arise,
Threatening to bind our souls with secular chains:
Help us to save free conscience from the paw
Of hireling wolves, whose gospel is their maw.
In concluding this volume, I cannot but express the
just sense of indignation, which an honest man should
feel, at the meanness of those persons who will belie the
labors of Christian missionaries, on the very field of
their operations,-a field which mercantile men and
officers of government are able to dwell in with safety,
only because the patient missionary has been there before  them, and, through God's blessing, changed  in
great part the character and manners of so recently depraved savages.*
* The following is the disinterested testimony of a late U. S. Consul
at Honolulu, the Hon. Joel Turrill, formerly a member of Congress
from the State of New York: "For several years," he says, "before
leaving the United States, I had been disinclined to favor the efforts
that were making to send missionaries abroad, believing that such efforts otherwise directed would be productive of much more good; but
during my residence in these Islands I have been an attentive observer
of the effects produced by those efforts on the Hawaiian race, and I am
free to confess that my feelings upon this subject have undergone a
material change. I find here as missionaries, individuals who, so far as
my observations have extended, are worthy of their high calling; and the
result of their labors, so apparent in the vast improvement in the moral
and physical condition of its people, forces the conviction on my mind,
that they have devoted themselves to their arduous duties with a zeal
and singleness of purpose worthy of the great work in which they are




FUTURE MISSIONARY ENTHUSIASM.            301
Every effort to traduce their characters and work, or
the native churches they have been instrumental of
gathering, should be met at once with an irresistible
array of opposing evidence and conviction. It were
right for the face of Christendom to gather blackness,
at such malicious attempts to weaken the faith of the
Church in the conduct or results of the glorious missionary enterprise-an enterprise which is yet to attract
to itself more true nobility and enthusiasm, than have
ever been carried into any enterprise undertaken under
the sun.  The missionary enthusiasm, which until now
has been confined to a few heroic spirits, shall yet pervade the ranks of the Christian Church, disarm  opposition, and inspire all hearts.
The very spirit of the world is tired
Of its own taunting question, asked so long,
" Where is the promise of your Lord's approach?"
The infidel has shot his bolts away,
Till, his exhausted quiver yielding none,
He gleans the blunted shafts that have recoiled,
And aims them at the shield of Truth again.
But it is too late in the serious drama of the world's
evangelization, for the blunted shafts of slander to retard its course. The testimony of unprejudiced men
like the English Rear-admiral Thomas, Sir George
Simpson,* Commander Wilkes and other officers of
engaged. I do not believe that another instance can be found, where,
with the same amount of means, so much good has been done to any
people in so limited a period."
* See note B.




302       LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
the United States Exploring Squadron, saying nothing
of the concurrent reports of a host of Christian travellers, is all on file before the world; and in the chancery
of public opinion it will outweigh as many anonymous
sheets of calumny, as would bridge the Pacific from
Panama to Oahu.
If any reader be in quest of authentic Hawaiian
annals, he will find his curiosity well gratified in the
perusal of the late very full history, by Rev. Hiram
Bingham, Hartford; or that by Mr. Jarves, issued in
Boston, 1842; or a history by Rev. Sheldon Dibble,
printed at the Lahainaluna mission press, Sandwich
Islands. While they are each replete with information
of substantial interest to the general reader, the last
work is to the Christian perhaps the most valuable of
the three.
We regard them all as well prepared seed-beds, from
which the yet formless garden of Hawaiian history will
largely draw. If in this volume there has been contributed one worthy plant, to be set out by the future
historian in that fair garden; and if it has helped its
readers to a correct view of the IIeart of the North
Pacific, as it was and is, the end of its author is fulfilled, and on it he inscribes
Xgird; Kai Exx\hv.




APPENDIX.








THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                       305
APPENDIX,
WE give below a commercial view of the Heart of
the Pacific, as contained in authentic statistics of Exports and Imports at the Sandwich Islands, for the year
1850, a tabular view of their educational and religious
progress; also a documentary history of the late controversy with the French at the Hawaiian  Islands; and a
paper from the London Athenseum, on the comparative
history and  fortunes of the conquering  race, that is so
rapidly colonizing and becoming dominant upon the
coasts and throughout the Isles of the Pacific, no less
than of the Atlantic.
IMrORTS for the year 1850, from the following countries:
California................................................................05,913.28
United States.......................................................... 283,037.49
Great Britain............................................. 63,987.69
British Colonies...................................1.................... 114,782.11
China.....................................................................   109,124.19
Chili......................................................................   58,097.84
Manilla...................................................................  33,187.84
Tahiti..................................................................... 19,288.29
Vancouver's Island.................................................... 15,942.59
France............................................. 7,633.48
Columbia River, Sitka, Bremen, Kamtschatka, Callao, Bonin
Isles...                                                24,063.90
$1,035,058.70




Statement of Imports, Duties, and Exports claiming Drawback, at the Port of Honolulu,
for the year 1850.
Gross invoice    Gross        Value        Return         Net            Net
value.        Duties.    re-exported.    Duties.    consumption.     Duties.
Goods paying 5 per cent. duty,.........   920,677.48    46,035.58   28,236.31      1,129.82     892,441.17    44,905.76 
Spirits, wines, &c...........................    24,451.94   112,568.03   14,593.41  85,557.30    9,858.53    27,010.73
By Consuls and Missions, free,..........    24,684.80                                            24,684.80                  M
Reinitted,..................................    49,572.00                                      49,572.00                   t
By whale-ships under $200 each,.......    15,672.48                                              15,672.48
1,035,058.70   158,603.61   42,829.72    86,687.12      992,228.98    71,916.49  
Add amount of spirits and wines in Bond
Dec. 31, 1849, estimated at............    18,000.00    44,000.00                             18,000.00    44,000.00     O
1,053,058.70   202,603.61   42,829.72    86,687.12   1,010,228.98   115,916.49        n
Deduct, spirits and wines now in bond
which will probably be exported. Estimated at.............................                            3,700.00    24,000.00       3,700.00     24,000.00    VI
1,053,058.70   202,603.61   46,529.72    110,687.12   1,006,528.98    91,916.49,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~1



THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                                   307
DOMESTIC EXPORTS from  Honolulu and Lahaina for the year 1850.
HONOLULU and KAUALI
Sugar.....................................................lbs.   597,831
Molasses,..........................................galls.  34,900
Syrup.....................................................      9,000
Coffee.......................lbs.  194,073
Salt,.........bbls. 5,750
Lime,........    "  100
Beef,........................................               "            10
Hides,........l........................bs.  20,241
Tallow................................................    "         3,703
Goatskins..................................................skins   24,983
Irish Potatoes,.........bbls.  5,331
Sweet  "...........................................       4,178
Onions,........................................                        252
Yams.....................................................              144
Arrow-root,.........lbs.  6,956
Hay,................................................ tons               281
Pickles,.........             bbls.          90j
Coral,................................................. blocks   1,628
Mustard-seed..........................................lbs.           1,023
Cattle 50, Horses 2, Mules 1, Sheep 10, Goats 10, Swine  179, Fowls 49
doz., Turkeys 19 doz., Eggs 2,010 doz., Brooms 410 doz., Pumpkins
4,678, Melons 950, Cocoanuts 2,100, Cocoanut Door-mats 119, Wood 4
cords, Mat-bags 500, Oranges 22,000, Charcoal 69 bags.
Limes, Lime Juice, Peppers, Bananas, Poi, Butter, Rope, Furniture, and
Sashes,.......................................33
Total value as per Manifests,...............................139,007.79
LAHAINA.
Sugar..................................................... lbs.   152,407
Molasses,................................................galls.   18,955
Syrup,................... 66,577
Coffee,.................                                  lbs.  14,355
Salt,.................sacks 1,912
Lime,..............................bbls.    80
Irish Potatoes,...................                                46,626
Sweet,   "...........................................               5,453
Onions,..................                                    "   1,606
Yams,................. " 20
Arrow-root,..........lb.................................lbs.  2,676
Pickles.............................................bbls.  627
Coral,....................................................blocks   1,428




308             LIFE. IN  THE  SAINDWICH  ISLANDS.
Sheep and  Goats 182, Swine 444, Fowls 861 doz., Eggs 504 doz.,
Pumpkins 62,016, Cocoanuts 22,450, Oranges 117,500, Melons 4,610,
Pine-apples 14,300, Cabbages 1,600, Sweetmeats 212 galls., Limejuice 304 galls., Beans 64 bbls., Corn 5 bbls., Butter 157 lbs., Vinegar
168 galls., Wood 61 cords, Lumber 21,072 feet.
Total value as per Manifests, from Lahaina,........... $241,314.84
c     "..      Honolulu........... 139,007.79
Value of Domestic Produce exported and furnished to ships at the three ports on the island of Hawaii, (estimated).......................    20,000.00
Domestic supplies furnished to 342 merchant
vessels at Honolulu. Average $200 each....         68,400.00
Domestic supplies furnished to 106 whale-ships
(inside) at Honolulu.  Average $250 each....    26,500.00
Domestic supplies furnished to 13 ships of war
and surveying vessels at Honolulu. Average
$500 each............................................  6,500.09
Domestic supplies furnished to 112 whale-ships
at Lahaina.  Average $220 each................     24,640.00
Domestic supplies furnished to 127 merchant
ships at Lahaina.  Average $80 each..........      10,160,00
Total value of domestic exports and supplies
furnished at Honolulu and Lahaina, for the
year 1850..........................................  $536,522.63
MEMORANDUM of Spirituous Liquors which paid five dollars per gallon
duty at the Custom-house in Honolulu, for consumption in the kingdom,
during the years 1847, 1848,1849, and 1850. And also the amount of
each kind consumed during the year 1850.
1847......3,271 gallons.          1849......5,717 gallons.
1848......3,443   "               1850......8,252   "
1850.
Brandy,.................................    6,484~ gallons.
Gin,...............................................   1,159  "
Samshoo, (China,)...............................  112
Absinthe,..................4...................... 74  "
Rum,.............................................  3374   "
Scotch Whisky................ 844 "
8,252'




THE  HEART  OF THE  PACIFIC.                     309
Gross receipts at Custom-houses of Oahu, Mllaui, and Kauai, for 1850.
HONOLULU.
Import duties paid on Goods and on Spirits and
Wines actually consumed,..........................  $91,953.11
Transit duties.............................................  443.42
Harbor dues,..........................   12,644.54
Stamps,........................................       2,579.50
Fines and Forfeitures,.................................  877.46
Interest,....................................................  323.50
Storage,................................................  3,245.15
$112,066,68
HARBOR MASTER.
Shipping and discharging Seamen,................    2,711.00
Stamps,........................................  1,413.00
$116,190.68
LAIIAINA.
Import duties............................................. 2,323.48
Transit duties.................................       39.92
Harbor dues..............................................    1,299.60
Stamps,...................................            1,276.00
Shipping Seamen,...............................        264.15
$5,203.15
W~AIMEA, KEALAKEAKUA, AND HILO.
Stamps and Harbor dues,...........................   112.90
$5,31 6.05
Add amount from Honolulu,...........................  116,190.68
Total Receipts,............................. $121,506.73
MEMORANDUM of Imports and Exports of Houses, House Framzes, and
Lumber of various descriptions, at Honolulu, during the years 1848,
1849, and 1850.
IMPORTS.
1848.      1849.        1850.
Boards, Plank, Joist, &c.,.........    809,038ft.  237,703     2,180,448
Large Timber,........................                145,550
Oak Plank,.............                 8,230                     16,449
Clapboards,.....................       5,000      25,250       112,393
Pickets....................... 9,500                    57,830
Latns,.......................        44,500          155          1,687
Palings and Battens,..............                                23,331




310            LIFE IN THE SANDWICH  ISLANDS.
1848.      1849.        1850.
Shingles,...............................    543,500  673   2,087,450
Door and window frames, blinds,
and sashes. Valued............               $296.63       $821.90
House frames,.......................                        171, No.
Houses, (complete, or nearly so,)                                 169
Total value as per Invoices,....... $18,856.48.$7,603.63  $101,175.19
EXPORTS.
1848.        1849.        1850.
Boards, Plank, Joist, &c.,        None.        143,111 ft.   None..
Clapboards..................                     5,000         "
Laths,........................"              119,000  "
Shingles,.............................  "  171,000   "
Door Frames and Sashes. Valued,       "         $997.81   "
House frames,........................1 
Bowling Alleys, complete,.........                    1" I 
Houses................................ "           1"7        "
Total value as per out'd Manifests,   "      $26,441.11         "
Condition of the Revenue of the Hawaiian Kingdom, for the year ending
31st of MJarch, 1851.
From cash on hand last year..$46,191.18
The Bureau of Foreign Imposts..118,901.38;"     Internal Commerce...............................   22,514.75
4"     Internal Taes............     52,455.26
("      Fees and Perquisites..                  1,314.72
Coasting Trade and Fisheries...................    4,269.27'"     Government Realizations.........56,495.22
c"      Fines and Penalties...........               14,404.25
$330,546.03
Table of Disbursements.
For the King and Privy Council....    19,966.16
"   Department of the Interior.............................. 140,0380.52
it" "              Foreign Relations...    4,730.64
"  Finance..................................   15,080.08
cc"       "        Public Instruction.............      28,825.07
c" " Law...............................                 10,106.84
For miscellaneous expenses.10,106.84
For amount disbursed on bills payable, less than has accrued
on bills receivable.................................................    2,126.42' $250,707.56
Balance...........................................   $79,838.47




Foreign Merchant Vessels, and Hawaiian  Vessels from  Foreign  Voyages, entered at the Ports of
Honolulu and Lahaina during the year 1850.
HONOLULU.                                                             LAHAINA.
Number In- Number Out-   Tonnage          Tonnage   Total Number    Total          Number        Amount
Nation. side Harbor.  side Harbor.    Inside.                 Outside.    of Vessels.    Tonnage.    of Vessels.   of Tonnage.
United States..............   142             24         43,339        11,533         166          54,872        111.........
Great Britain and Col- t        102            16         19,618         4,559         118          24,177          6........
onies..................
France......................     4             4             929        1,371           8           2,300....
Tahiti....7............. 367              7.                              367           1.........
Peru............................2.........      1,300           2           1,300............
Norway  -.......2.............................................o
Hawaii.....................  14.........       1,732.........       14           1,732          8.........
Chili...........      8.........       1,283......... 8                  1,283.................
Russia..................... 3....... 838.........        3             838.........
Spain.................           2.........         600..                     2             600..................
Mexico.............     2.........         309...          2             309.................
Hanover..................        3             1             400          160           4             560           1.........
Belgium................  1.........         533....1                          533.................
Denmark................          2             1             215          233           3             448................
Bremen..................... 110.........        1             110..................
Sweden......................................                     400           1             400..................
291            51         70,273        20,031        342           90,304        127.........
Number entered in 1849........................    157.........        18.........
Increase in 1850                                      185.........      107.........




Vessels of War and Government Surveying Vessels entered at Honolulu, 1850.                                   L
Date of                                                                                         Date of
Name.          Commander.         Nation.      Class.   Guns.    Where from.                  Where bould.
Arrival.                                                                                       Departure.
Jan. 15, Ewing,        McArthur,             U.S. Am. Schooner,            California via Hilo,           California.
Feb. 26. Wanderer,   Benjamin Boyd,          Gt. Britain, Yacht,      10  Tahiti,               Mar. 10, San Francisco.
Miay 6,  Herald,       Henry Kellett,                    Sloop,       22  Mazatlan,             May 24, Arctic Ocean.
June 6, Swift,         Oldham,                           Bri,          6                        July 5,  Tahiti.
2" 4, Enterprise,   Rich. Collinson, C. B.      "       Bark,            Plymouth, England, June 30, Kotzebue Sou.
"  29, Bayonnaise,  Jurien de la Gravier France,        Corvette,   24  Macao, China,          July 4,  Tahiti.
July 1, Investigator, McClure,               Gt. Britain, Bark,            Plymouth, England,        4,  Kotzebue Sou.
" 3, Cockatrice,   Rundle,                              Schooner,    6  Mazatlan,              Aug. 18, Valparaiso.
Oct. 16, Herald,       Henry Kellett, C. B.              Sloop,       22  Port Clarence,        Oct. 30,  Hong Kong.
" 23, Dolphin,        Thomas S. Page,    U. S. Am. Brig,             10  Hong Kong,           Nov. 6,  San Francisco.
Nov. 10, Falmouth,    Petigrew,                          Sloop,       24  S. Francisco via Hilo   " 21,  South Pacific.
Dec. 13, Serieuse,     Cosnier,              France,    Corvette,   24  San Francisco,          In port,
25, Baikaal,       Cousmin,             Russia,     Brig,         4  Ochotsk,
Whale-ships entered at the Ports of Honolulu and Lahaina during the year 1850.
HONOLULU.                                                                                                 LAHAINA.
American,  106           Tonnage.             Sperm Oil.            Whale Oil.            Whalebone.            105
French,      11                                 bbls.                 bbls.                  Ibs.                 3
Bremen,       6           46,934.              15,106.               256,495.             2,621,000.              4
British,      2
NOTE.-Nineteen of those entered at Honolulu anchored outside the reef, and did not come within the harbor.




T-IE  HEART  OF THE  PACIFIC.                       313
A comparative view of the business of the Hawaiian
Islands in the years 1849 and 1850, nay be obtained
from the following estimates and items, as found in the
IIawaiian Government Paper of February 8th, 1851,1
published at Honolulu.
Gross receipts at the Custom House, Honolulu, 1849.......  $79,802.75
(c"                     "          c'       1850.......  116,190.68
Increase in 1850...........................    36,387.93
Gross receipts at the Custom House, Iahaina, 1849.........         3,330.70
":"' "                            1 850....i      tc  1850.........  5,203.15
Increase in 1850...........................  1,872.45
Gross receipts at Hawaii and Kauai, 1849.....................         97.87
(" " 1850.....................                               112.90
Increase in 1850..............     15.03
Domestic exports from Honolulu and Kauai, 1849..........    89,743.74."..            1850..........    139,007.79
Increase in 1850....                    49,264.05
Domestic exports from Lahaina, (estimated,) 1849..........    14,000.0C
cc                   "     1850...........................   241,314.84
Increase in 1850...........................  227,314.84
Gross value of imports for 1849..................................  29,39.44
" " 1850.................................. 1,053,058.70
Increase in 1850......................   323,319.26
Net consumption for 1849..........................................   622,637.37
c" 1850..........................................  1,006,528.98
Increase for 1850................  383,891.61
Value of Imports.from different countries.
1849.               1850.
United States............................. $239,246.42...... $283,037.49
California.....................................  131,505.89......    305,913.28
Great Britain.................................    44,578.11..   63,987.69
British Colonies.52,821.59......   114,782.11
China................................       95,787.27......  109,124.19
Chili........................   87,356.05......   58,097.84
France...............................   23,455.78......       7,633.48
Tahiti........................................   19,340.27......  19,288.29
Columbia River, (Vancouver's Island)         12,672.38..        15,942.59
Hamburg                                        9,723.58             none.
Miscellaneous..........    13,252.10....    24,063.90




314            LIFE  IN  THE SANDWICH  ISLANDS.
The following are the principal items of domestic export for the
years 1849 and 1850. The tables for 1849 do not give the exports
from Lahaina in a separate list, as is the case for the year 1850. As
few vessels loaded at that port, during 1849, direct for California,
only 18 merchant vessels are reported as having arrived there; while
in 1850, 127 arrived, a large proportion of which took in cargoes, or
parts of cargoes, for California.
1849.            1850.
Sugar, lbs...........................  653,820......  750,238
Molasses, gallons.............   41,235.....   53,855
Syrup, gallons.....................    none......   75,577
Coffee, lbs................. 28,231......  208,428
Salt, ba rrels.............. 2,866......    6,000
Lime, barrels..............  906......     180
Beef, barrels......................  158         10
Hides, lbs...........................    2,512......   20,241
Tallow, lbs.................   17,403......    3,703
Goat-skins................  31,488......   24,983
Irish potatoes, barrels..........  858......   51,957
Sweet potatoes, barrels.........    306......    9,631
Onions, barrels.............about   200......    1,858
Yams, barrels.....................  none......  164
Pumpkins..................about    1,000......   66,694
Cocoanuts.........................    none......   23,550
Oranges............    about   10,000......  139,500
Melons......................about    1,000        5,560
Pineapples................ none......   14,300
Fowls...............................    none      1,626
Turkeys.....................  500                   228
Swine..............................    none......  623
Arrow-root, lbs............ none......    9,632
Eggs, dozen...................... not stated......    2,514
These are the most important items of export, and it will be seen
that the great increase over the previous year has been in what may
properly be called the staples of the Islands-sugar, molasses, syrup, salt,
Irish and sweet potatoes. Vegetables of less importance and fruits
have greatly increased, and arrow-root has again taken its place among
the exports from the Islands; and of these articles the production can
be almost unlimited. Of syrup none was reported in 1849, and this is
an article to which some of the plantations are now directing their
whole attention, and which is more profitable than sugar.
Both the increase of the receipts at the Custom-house, and the extraordinary increase of exports, especially from Maui, are gratifying
indications of advance in resources and wealth, and they arL calculated
to add a new stimulant to the coffee-growers and sugar-planters of




THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                     315
the Islands. During the first half of the year, the demand for coffee
and sugar was so great, that had the quantity on hand been millions
of pounds, it would have found a ready sale, at prices highly remunerative. And such, we apprehend, will continue to be the case in
future years. At the present moment prices are greatly depressed,
and the market at San Francisco is overstocked with these articles;
but this very fact will withhold shipments fromh other countries, and the
present stock will be reduced, and command a paying price. When
that moment arrives, and it is sure to come, these Islands are the nearest
point from whence the demand can be supplied, and, with the speed of
steam navigation, Hawaiian staples can be transported thither at the
very moment they will pay best. Oregon is fast filling up, and California
will, without a doubt, steadily increase in population for many years to
come, though not so rapidly as during the past two years. Consumption of the staple products of thi Islands will keep pace with the increase
of population, and those articles which are peculiar to the tropics will
always be in demand to the full extent of the ability to supply. The
export of vegetables may not increase, or even come up to that of the
year 1850; but fruits, coffee, sugar, syrup, and molasses, there is no
doubt, will be required in a constantly increasing ratio, and will command a price that will well remunerate the producers at the Sandwich
Islands.
The following comparative view will show how, in another way, the
products of the Islands are in increasing demand.
Whole number of vessels that visited the Islands from 1848-'50:1848.      1849.        1850.
Merchant vessels............  90......  180.... 469
Whalers..................  274...... 237
Vessels of war, &c.......... --......  13......  13
The supplies furnished to these vessels amounted in 1849 to $81,340..it..                   (.    in 1850 to 140,000.
Almost the whole of these supplies were raised from the soil, and
consequently their value was so much added to the ability of the people
to purchase the imports of the merchants, and to increase their own
comfort.
The increased value of exports and supplies has, however, been more
than equalled by the increase of imports. From  California and the
British colonies they have more than doubled; and the aggregate increase from all countries, for consumption, amounts to $383,891.61.
Increase of exports and supplies.....................  335,238.89.
Excess of imports.58,652.72.
The total value of imports for consumption is... $1,006,528.98.
The total value of exports and supplies..........   536,522.63.
Excess of imports.........................   470,005.35.




310           LIFE IN  TIIE SANDWVICHI ISLANDS.
Of this excess a considerable amount has been in sugar-mills, and
agricultural implements for the cultivation of the soil, admitted duty
free by government.  Another portion was introduced by consuls and
missions, for consumption and not for sale. How has the balance (say
$400,000) been paid for? In part by the direct introduction of capital
invested in plantations, &c.; in part by profits derived from shipments
abroad on island account; and in a great degree by money put in circulation by strangers, returned Hawaiians, captains, officers, and crews
of ships, which do not come into the calculation of " supplies."  There
may be a small debt against the Islands on account of imports, but it
probably does not exceed the amount of goods still remaining unsold
in the hands of importers.
These statistics show progress, and awaken the hope that the Hawaiian
Islands have entered upon a course of increasing prosperity, depending
almost wholly upon the development of their agricultural resources.
To this point the most earnest attention should be given by Government and the people'of the Islands. The great desideratum of a ready
market now exists at their own doors; and if the demand is not promptly
met, it will not be because Providence has not furnished all the means
and appliances for so important an object.
From the Reports of Keoni Ana, Minister of the Interior, and of Robert
Crichton Wyllie, Minister of Foreign Relations, we learn that the number
of foreigners who have taken the oath of allegiance during the year
1850 is 151, citizens of the following countries:United States.........     69   China..........             12
Great Britain........     37   South America.......... 2
France........             4   East Indies.............. 5
Portugal........................  5   West Indies..................  4
Germany........................  5   Polynesia........................ 4
Denmark........................ 2   Africa............................ 1
Prussia...........................  1
The amount of goods sold at auction in the Hawaiian Kingdom during
the same year was $1,060,760.38.
The amount received for public licenses is $24,145.
In real estate, the number of royal patents granted during the year
is 314.
To aliens..... 25.     To subjects............. 319.
By the annexed tables can be seen the number of acres sold on each
island, and the gross amount of their price.




THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                      317
Islands.              Acres.                    Amount.
Oahu................... 15,161.....................19,775.20
Maui....................  9,338..................... 17,927.86
iawaii..................    3,196.....................  3,490.68
Kauai...................   2,446.....................  2,699.58
Molokai.............. 1,371.....................   349.00
Total.......... 31,518.....................44,352.32
The avails to the Treasury of the Interior Department, during the
year 1850, have been $84,350.65.
We add to the foregoing exhibition of the commerce
and trade of the Sandwich Islands, a tabular view also of
educational and religious progress at the Heart of the
Pacific.
During the year ending May 1, 1850, 851 members were received on
examination into 17 of the churches at these Islands. The number
admitted on examination to the churches at Kaanapali, Waiane, and
Waimea, and on Molokai, is not reported.  The largest number added
to any one church is 369, to the first church in Honolulu.  This church
received, besides, 106 members from other churches.
19 of the churches report a loss by death of 1277 members; while 18
of these churches report the baptism of only 295 children. In connection with 17 of them, there were 1354 marriages.
The following list of contributions to purposes of benevolence shows
the amount given by these churches, and the objects to which it was
appropriated.  The list is not complete, no report having been received
from five of the churches.
KAUAI. — 1aiol'i,.. Monthly concert, for native preacher at Koloa $15.00
Monthly concert, for repairs of church.......... 46.50
For shingling of church...................  17.........   3.50
OAHU. —Kaeole,.  Objects not stated.................................. 500.00
Waialua, For French Protestant Mission...................  30.86
For meeting-houses................................. 293.00
Honolulu, 2d ch., Monthly concert............................ 108.69
For support of pastor.....................    320.00
H.onolulu, 1st ch., Salary of pastor............................ 500.00
Repair of houses for pastor...............  500.00
To a native preacher......................  73.00
To Mr. Thurston, to repair loss by fire  25.00
For French Protestant Missions......... 37.00




318             LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Honolulu, 1st ch., For American Board...................$...  90.00
For meeting-house in Kau...............  30.00
For meeting-house in Kohala............  50.00
MAI. —Lahhaina,.. For support of pastor.............................. 562.00
French Protestant Missions...................1.....  76.00
American Board.....................................  50.00
For church communion............................  44.75
For meeting-house on Lanai......................  35.00
For other objects.................................  120.00
For seraphina, amount not stated...............
Xlolokai,.. For support of pastor.............................. 420.00
For Kohala meeting-house........................ 102.00
Spread of the Gospel abroad..................... 501.50
Relief of the poor................................  40.00
WailukTu,. For American Board............................. 426.61
For French Protestant Missions..................  41.85
For repairing meeting-house.....................    602.00
Hana,.... For support of pastor.............................. 125.00
H&WAII.-Hilo,... For American Tract Society..................... 100.00
For American Board..............................  607.00
Waimea,.. Contributions, objects not stated................ 200.00
Kcailuta,... For support of pastor and native assistant... 208.00
For French Protestant Missions..................  30.31
For meeting-house at Kohala.....................  33.62
Kau..... For support of pastor.93.96
The whole amount is $7,213.14, from about 18,000 recent converts
from the lowest idolatry.
The entire amount expended on the Sandwich Islands for educational
purposes during the year 1850, may be estimated as follows:On the public schools..................................... $25,891.96
On select schools supported by government.........   1,929.52
On select schools supported by voluntary efforts...  11,061.00
Ministers' salary, clerk hire, stationery, &c.........   4,264.11
$43,146.59
Supposing the population on the 1st of January, 1851, to be 85,000,
which is not far from the truth, the above amount would be 50 cents
for every individual: or supposing the taxable male population to be
15,000, it would amount to $2.08 for each man, were the whole amount
raised by taxation. The average annual cost of each school has been
$47.68.  Average yearly wages of each  teacher, $37.99.  Average
yearly cost of each scholar, $1.69.




THE HEART OF THE  PACIFIC.                      319
Tabular View of Schools for 1850,
Reported by Missionaries.
a    a
STATIONS.             5    2,
Hilo and Puna.    48   2091 1207 860 1037 802   91
[ Wairnea.21    841 400  285  366  166   31
HAWAII,   Kohala.               21   1116 605  260   59 276  144
Kailua...       21    972  381  100 374 233   26
Kealakekua.         26    925  404  202  265  141   60
Kau..................  13    355  101   45  155   54   19
(Hana............  27   1149 579 317 430 411   33
MAI,.. JWailuku........         24    837  434  377  174  304   64
Lahaina. --- -...-   15    899 424  282 341  377   48
LKaanapali.........  10    333  117   69  133  101   34
MOLOKAI.......      22   1016 610  273 685 300 422
LANAI........              184  162  104  127  103   10
(Honolulu 1st        23   1068  407  248  377  292  145
~ Honolulu 2d..       12    445  203  108 225  102   14
OAHU,... - Ewa and Waianae   27    820  496  312 436 535   97
Waialua...         26    735  361  24!7  371   263  122
L Kaneohe............  11    529  386  287 356  380  113
(Waioli..............  20    515  331  170  258 179
KAUAI,..   Koloa.               15    437  267 135  223  175
Waimea.......   15    400  221   6   167   9    21
IIHA...........       6    141   69   4    29   14
Total....    388 11,92 7655 4523 6603 5001 1494
No. of scholars in English, 1850................................. 421
0             r ~           -s
_    I
SEMINARIES, &c...     o
Royal school...............  11  2
Lahainaluna..............   64...    14       2      1     14
W ailuku....................              3.....
Hilo...........................   62  23  12..      1      8
Waioli........................   48  t4    14...       7
Total..................  220  271    45     2      7      29




Tabular View of lChurches/for 1850. 
U~ ~                 ~..3
U2              ~                        c.U 
STATIONS.''.
~   Waimea........ 96/ 59551 12/ 812[ 264 1464/ 51[ 800129    0         26 6220 4.45   0
Kobala.............  2    1791 19 18   L8,.50023    [ 1264   27  O6,1  60 9oo0  4712141,5,o  1oo9
iso a l...   2 6    1 6 8  1   6   5 7    1 4......      3......  4 1         a l      { 
Keal,                                                1265                             2 2 283,    ~
191[62   21       20 18/  91380/      0051 $ 50   1.0     27 7981 53[              N0   900
~~~.~~       U    / =    189
W   ailuea............ 96   5955   12  1   2641464   51  800   222   39    16   6   200    4114  5    100 
AWI   oala............      26   191   19  188  130  500   23   80   1264   27    793   80  900   6712  4152  19
RKailna............      2339   67 466  139  575   33   95 1465   12   1692   22  450   3544  273   51;
Lahainala ua   "'...2694.  16 841.  59.   574. 14... 15...  32.  32.
Kana a..1.5.................   352..,283  32..
Kau............   91  1294    6  236  130  3772       2   51    924   25    395   40.  2281  214   40 
CHalla......6...0         2     2   20   58   98   10 451    56        3     276   15583  450 971 
Wailuku 2........55   1573    9 319   58  212   18                1262   1      979   73         4226  361   
I..     Lhaina.............  90   1119   48 222   126  33           5   20    62   53   1105   55       5646  524   67 
Lahainaluna..............
Kaanapali.....i.......
oLO a............76   1401    8  45   85  235  40   16   112...65                 3429  412   52,
KaiIneohe............  36    826    D  22   2 1   90    1   2 2    2 0     C)   151   3- 450   2832  IS 68   51
_W.aioli           41    292    1 2 23  14  6           4       1  1 251  12    102  41...1    34-5  2167    1
/10/ 1914, 181290|111|356    811671 14301 351  559   44  900l 330,33    7
Wairneohe.............     326 4 3  2   S21       902 1901  22    2032'2.a 5~ 15    1 3    450  S2 6      51 29
waol...............  40 3292:1   29 20 7                4 17/   259,8   412  102/  040          2340  216   5
1594. 7,22403   25  852) -352  134  278  29( 2 233         179 58 30[...[,211 2
Tot,,~~ al~o......1943,24.1.65...7820.283.42122.18




Late Census of the Hfawzaiian Islands, from Official Documents, 1850.
Islands.                         Population.       Aggregate amount of each description of persons included opposite.
Hawait27,04                                                                 ales.                           Females.
Oahu..,..... 23,145
Mauai.......................................             18,671        Ud   1  of                        Under 17 years of
23,145        Under 17 years of                 Under 17 years of
Kauai............................................... age.    10,77.. age...........9,593                                                M
Mauai.6,941
~Mo ~lo ~kal.                                *3',429 A   Of 17 and under 30, 6,327   Of 17 and under 30, 5,719
Niihau..............................................          3        Of 30 and under 50, 10,819   Of 30 and under 50, 9,696                  P
Lanai                                                        528        Of 50 and upward,   8,353   Of 50 and upward,   8,121
Toaagree.................. _........ 
Total aggregate..                        80,641           Total males...... 36,272           Total females... 33,128
Excess of males.........3,143.
BlinDeaf..................................... 33
Foreigners.                       4HcDeafd........................................                       1449
Unmarried............. -...........................             4       09Hio(e                                                 8,92 
Living with foreign wives...............   133=266
Children............................................        239                   Natve population78,854 
Living with native wives.......................             343.
Half castes.........................................        471                                  Schools, &c.
Foreigners in Hil              o................................  59    Number of English schools............................          9' " English scholars                                    421
Total foreigners.......................        1,787                 "  high schools.                                        6
Natives...................                    78,854                      h" high scholars...............................   256
"       primary and common schools..                   505
Grand total.......................       80,641             "        primary and common scholars......... 18,022               co




322           LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
HONOLULU A COMMERCIAL DEPOT.
THE peculiar advantages of Honolulu, as a depot for the commerce
of the Northern Pacific, have not received that attention from commercial men which they deserve, and to which their intrinsic merits entitle
them. To some of these we will now allude, in the hope that they may
arrest the attention of those interested in the prosperity of this ki'ngdom, and engaged in its rapidly extending commerce.
In the first place, we have a safe and convenient harbor, into which
any number of vessels, ever likely to require accommodation, can enter,
and be perfectly safe from all casualties of wind and tempest. This is
a point of great importance to be known, as thereby the rate of insurance would be reduced, and the anxieties of shippers diminished. Our
harbor is also of easy access, and vessels are subjected to but little delay in entering. Whenever delays occur on account of strong winds,
those winds blow off shore, and ships can safely ride at their anchors,
outside, until they can come in.  But with a small steam-tug to tow
ships in, no delay whatever need occur. They could be brought in in
any weather. The southerly gales that bring ships at anchor outside
upon a lee shore, blow directly in, and vessels can always slip and run
in, even if they cannot stay to get their anchors. Allnost every wreck
upon our coast, for many yeals past, has been of ships bound off, and
which did not wish to come inside. Our harbor, therefore, may be considered as safe as any other in the Pacific, and furnishes sufficient accomrmodation for a large fleet. At one time during the last shipping
season, a hundred vessels were counted, and there was room for more.
Another indispensable requisite, in connection with the commercial
advantages of Honolulu, is good and sufficient wharfage, where ships of
the largest class can come alongside and discharge, without the expense and delay of lighters. This, we are happy to say, is now being
provided by the government, and will soon furnish all that will be required for many years, even should the business of the port increase in
a large ratio. The new wharves are being constructed in a firm and
durable manner, and are run out into from ten to eighteen feet water,
thus affording vessels of a large class all the advantages they need for
rapidly discharging their cargoes. When these are completed-which
they will be in a few weeks-no delay need occur, as has formerly
been the case, from a want of accommodation at the wharves
Secure and convenient storage is another advantage possessed here,
of great value to the port as a general depot for goods awaiting a
market. There are several large and commodious warehouses, owned
by the government and by individuals, of easy access, and convenient




THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                   323
to the wharves, where a large amount of goods can be safely stored.
Some of these buildings are fire-proof, and others so nearly so as to
render them quite safe from the casualties of fire. Should those now
built be found inadequate to the demand, there is abundant room for
the erection of more, in the near vicinity of the wharves; and such
structures would be multiplied as rapidly as the demand increased. At
present there is a large amount of storage room unoccupied-sufficient
for the cargoes of many ships, and at rates far below those of San
Francisco, or any other port in the Northern Pacific. Goods can also
be landed and stored at this port at a cheap rate, compared with the
ports on the coast, where labor is so excessively high. We have this
fact from a gentleman, now here in commercial pursuits, and who
is thoroughly versed in the details of expenses of this kind on the
coast.
In view of these facts, and with the knowledge that goods can be
entered here for re-shipment, subject only to a transit duty of one per
cent., the advantages of this port, as a depot for goods awaiting a market, must appear quite apparent. If the late decision of the Collector
of San Francisco is carried into execution, we submit to consignees
there, having cargoes upon their hallds, whether it would not be a
material saving of expense to send their ships here to discharge and
store their goods, until a favorable moment arrives for effecting sales.
We shall, without doubt, have a line of steamers running between
the Islands and the coast within a few months. By this expeditious
mode of intercourse goods could be thrown into that market within a
month or six weeks, and merchants there would always know the state
of the demand, and the proper time to have them forwarded.
In addition to the above facilities, vessels can get stone ballast, wood,
and water, of the very best description, in any quantity, and so convenient, that casks can be filled in a lighter or ship's boat from the hose,
as it comes from the iron pipes. This water is perfectly soft, being
brought from a spring some hundreds of feet above the sea, without
coming in contact with the ground.
We are confident in the belief that Honolulu possesses all the advantages for a large commercial depot for the North Pacific, especially for
California and Oregon, which will, ere long, be appreciated and employed, in preference to Valparaiso or any other port in this ocean;
and where assorted cargoes for those points, and for the more northern
possessions of the Russians, can be made up at the very shortest notice.
— Polynesian.
FRENCH  DIFFICULTIES AT THE SANDWICH  ISLANDS.
THE principal demands of France were, 1. That a portion of the
money raised by the government for the support of schools shall be




324           LIFE IN  THE SANDWICH  ISLANDS.
placed in the hands of a few Catholic priests who reside there. This
money is now collected and expended by an officer of the government,
called the Minister of Public Instruction, and schools are thus provided
for nearly or quite all the children on the Islands. 2. That the price
of licenses for retailing French brandy shall be regulated by France.
The object is to take away all power of the government from restraining those habits of intoxication among the people, which were once almost universal, but are now very extensively abandoned, and thus make
an increased sale for brandy.
It will be recollected that Dillon with his frigate did not succeed in
enforcing these demands.  After failing to persuade the government to
yield to them, he went on shore with a body of armed troops, paraded
through the streets of Honolulu, went to the fort, hoisted the French
flag, sent for the Governor and demanded the surrender of his soldiers.
The noble Islander, in a calm and dignified manner, replied, "I HAVE NO
SOLDIEPS."  Dillon's troops then went to work to do what injury they
could to the public property, by turning over the small out-buildings,
cutting down trees, and making obscene pictures, and writing obscene
words on the walls of the fort; and, after other proceedings of a.similar
character, and destroying property to the amount of $100,000, retired
on board their vessel.' They soon left for California, and, upon their
own account of their proceeding, the California papers spoke of them
as pirates; and their proceedings were undoubtedly nothing better than
piratical.
The Grand Nation has now sent out Perrin to reassert their claims;
and, as the government has no military force, he gave them  a limited
time to save the town from  destruction by compliance.  In this extremity, the government has proposed to Mr. Severance, the American
Commissioner, as it is understood, to yield the sovereignty of the Islands to the United States, and place themselves under the protection
of the Stars and St, ipes.  It is also understood that he has accepted
the offer provisionally, to await the action of our government.  The
Vandalia, one of our ships of war, is there. It is said, that not only Mr.
Severance and Mir. Allen, our Consul, and the commanding officer of the
Vandalia, but Gen.'Miller, the British Consul, and all the respectable
foreigon residents, justify the position of the Hawaiian government, and
condemn the proceedings of Perrin. And this brutal exercise of power over
a defenceless people just emerged from barbarism, is disgracing France in
the eyes of the civilized world. It is really a dastardly business.
France has no important interests at the Island. There are scarcely a
dozen French residents there. The American interests, on the contrary, are of very great and growing importance. Several thousand
Americans reside on the Islands, many of whom are owners of large
tracts of land, and are engaged in agriculture.  There is always a great
amount of American shipping in their ports. It often amounts to mil



THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                   325
lions of dollars in value. Eighty ships are no uncommon sight in tre
harbor of Honolulu, mostly of a very large class. The connection with
Oregon and California is constant, and there is a regular mail between
Honolulu and the United States. At the present rate of increase, a
large proportion of the inhabitants will soon be Americans. It is to be
hoped that our government will protect these interests of our citizens
against France, and assume a decided tone against anyattempts on the
part of the French government to interfere with the independence of
the Island. If the Islands must be annexed to this country to protect
them  against French piracy, it will be a righteous annexation. The
people of Honolulu, both foreign and native, are extremely desirous of
living under a flag which the French will not dare to insult.
It is understood that an Agent of the Government of the Sandwich
Islands is now at Washington, with full power to negotiate important
changes in the relations between the Islands and the United States.
He is the bearer of two propositions: one, for the establishment of an
American Protectorate over the Islands, their government and internal
organization remaining as now; the other, for the abdication of the king,
the complete resignation of the authority into the hands of the people
under suitable republican forms, and the definite annexation of the
Islands to this Republic. These propositions are submitted to our
Government for its choice and acceptance, with an earnest request from
the king and all his ministers that one or the other of them may be
promptly embraced and acted upon. This step, we have reason to
believe, has not been taken without deliberation and perfect conviction
that it is both necessary and timely.
To take the Islands under the protection of the United States would
be of little, if any, advantage to either of the two parties. Our protection could hardly be rendered efficacious in a country where our right
to exercise it might be denied, while it might entangle us in unpleasant
difficulties with other nations.
In our view, the only question to be entertained is that of annexation.
As a territory of the United States, the Islands would be exempt from
foreign interference, and the authority of our flag and the force of our
laws would not be disputed. To the inhabitants and future settlers,
annexation would be a blessing. It would insure tranquillity, order,
and a more active development of the rich natural resources of the
country. Of its present white population, by far the greater and predominantly influential part are Americans, who long once more to live
under the stars and stripes. Its civilization and its commerce are
American; its laws and government are;, already, to a great extent, modelled upon ours. And as the trade of the Pacific is developed, the
value of the Islands will increase, not only to ourselves, but to other
nations.-American newspaper.




326          LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.'THE following is a copy of the Rules of Conference
finally agreed upon between the Commissioner of the
French Republic and the Minister of Foreign Affairs
of the Hawaiian Kingdom, at Honolulu, the 10th of
January, 1851.   Appended  are the  most important
Diplomatic Notes and Protocols that passed between
the parties while negotiations were pending, and the
final Declaration to which they arrived.
RULES OF DIPLOMATIC CONFERENCES.
THE undersigned Negotiators of the Treaty, concluded on the 26th of
March, 1846, between France and the Hawaiian Islands, chosen by the
President of the French Republic and the King of the Sandwich Islands, to put an end to the much regretted differences that have supervened between the two countries, and to arrest in their source all
causes of ulterior difficulties; after having each-in four dispatches,
which have recently been exchanged-restored to the political relations
of the two countries the character of mutual confidence and honorable
loyalty which they had sought to establish, have agreed to subject
themselves to the following preliminary articles, in the conduct of the
Diplomatic Conferences, rendered necessary by the negotiation with
which they are charged:ARTICLE I.
With the view of recording the results obtained during the course of
the negotiations, it is agreed that Protocols of each sitting shall be prepared, successively, during the discussions, to be read and signed by the
two Commissioners, at the opening of the following sitting.
The order of signatures shall be the same as that adopted by the undersigned, at the conclusion of the Treaty of 26th March, 1846.
ARTICLE II.
For the success of the negotiation itself, and in order that each Commissioner may be able to perform his other important duties, each Conference shall last only from eleven in the morning to two in the afternoon; to be resumed at the same hour, on such other day as it may
please the two negotiators to fix, before they separate.
ARTICLE III.
The Hawaiian language not being understood by either of the two
undersigned, it is agreed that, for the drawing up of the Protocols, only,
the English and French languages shall be used, exclusively.




THE HEAIRT OF THE PACIFIC.                  327
ARTICLE IV.
The two Commissioners shall only propose to themselves to seek for
the.true interests of their respective nations; observing all the respect
due to nations very unequal in force, though perfectly equal in regard
to sovereignty and independence; it has been agreed that, with this
object, the two negotiators shall judge of the facts, in themselves, with
calm loyalty and impartiality, and that they shall, reciprocally, demand
nothing which they would not be ready to grant, in turn, in analogous
circumstances.
ARTICLE V.
T.o secure this desirable result, which is altogether indispensable to
the dignity and honor of the two States, the two negotiators, in their
conferences, shall divest themselves of all prejudices and passion, and
will carry their investigations back to the visit to this Archipelago,
made in 1837, by Vice-admiral Du Petit Thouars.
ARTICLE VI.
The undersigned shall endeavor to guard themselves against every
source of error, and, so far as their personal influence may permit, to
dispose their respective governments to renounce every idea, or every
demand which shall appear to them not sufficiently established.
ARTICLE VII.
With the view of preventing all surprise, and for the sake of a political liberty of great propriety, it has been decided that the points, successively agreed upon in the discussion, shall not be definitively obtained, till after the whole discussion has been closed.
ARTICLE VIII.
To do homage to truth, and record an historical fact, the two negotiators have solemnly recognized that, in the eyes of the two contracting
parties, the Treaty of the 26th of March, 1846, has been, hitherto, maintained in its integrity.
ARTICLE IX.
All the documents that may be examined shall be numbered and
marked by the initials of the two Commissioners.
ARTICLE X.
The discussion shall be pursued and terminated in conformity with
the general principles of the laws of nations, and the diplomatic usages
of the great powers.
ARTICLE XI.
It has also been agreed that if-impossible though it seem to bethe government of the French Republic should admit the mediation of
a third power, for the adjustment of the difficulties confided to the un



328 r3LIeFE IN  THi'EI SANDWICH  ISLANDS.
dersigned, before the latter have completed their task, the two negotiators, undersigned, shall each conform to the decision which shall have
been agreed upon, between France and the mediating Power, in such
an event.
ARTICLE XII.
The result of the negotiations, recorded in the Protocols, shall be embodied in a Declaration, signed by the two Commissioners in the name
of their respective governments, in a place whllich shall be hereafter
agreed upon: That signature shall be followed by a salute exchanged
between the shore and the Serieuse: That final Act shall be drawn up
in French and Hawaiian, with a translation in the English language;
and as it shall not be considered in the light of a new Convention, but
simply an Act interpreting the existing Convention, and designed to insure its execution, there will be no occasion for ratification on the part
of any of the governments of the two contracting parties.
Done in duplicate, in Honolulu, this 10th day of January, 1851.
R. C. WYLLIE,
Minister of Foreign Relations.
Le Commissaire de la Republique Franfcaise,
EM. PERRIN.
PROTOCOL.
SATURDAY, 15th l/fiarch, 1851.
Mr. Wyllie alleging reasons of State, asked M. Perrin's permission to
give him a perusal of the instructions fiamed in April and September
1849, for Mr. Jarves and Mr. Judd, during their mission to the governments of France, Great Britain, and the United States, and accordingly
gave a reading of each of these documents.
Ml. Perrin, in his turn, read a "verbal note," dated this day, serving
as a reply to his memorandum on Schools, to the notes and historical
memorandum  latterly addressed by the Minister, Mr. Wyllie, after
having denied some of the consequences deduced by M. Perrin, as contrary both to the object of these writings and to his own intentions,
asked a copy of the note to reply to it, if it was to have any official force
against the Hawaiian government; M. Perrin answered that his desire
was not to delay too much the entering upon the draft of the final note;
he did not think it proper at present to leave a copy of that which he
had read.
Mr. Wyllie then communicated to M. Perrin the explanation furnished in the name of the Hawaiian government, upon all the demands
of France presented by her special Commissioner.
R. C. C. WYLLIE,
Minister of Foreign Relations.
Le Commissaire de la Rtpublique Franiaise,
EM. PERRIN.




TIHE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                    329
The following are the explanations referred to, and the Demands of
the French Republic to which they apply, presented by M. Perrin, at
the conference of Ist February, 1851.
Dcemands to which the Government of the French lRepublic thinks that
satisfaction ought to be made, before the re-establishment of Diplomatic
Relations can take place with that of the Hawaiian Islands.
1. The adoption complete, entire, and loyal, of the Treaty of the 26th
March, 1846, as it was drafted in the French Text.
2. The establishment of a duty from 1 to 2 dollars a gallon, of 5
bottles on spirits, containing less than 55 per cent. of alcohol.
3. A treatment rigorously equal, granted to the two worships, Catholic and Protestant.
The direction of instruction confided to two Superior Committees
formed in each of the two religions.
The submission of the Catholic Schools to Catholic Inspectors.
The proportional division between the two religions of the Tax raised
by the Ha-w-.aiian Government for the support of Schools.
4. The adoption of the French language, in the relations between
French Citizens and the Hawaiian Administration.
5. The withdrawal of the exception imposed upon French whalers,
importing wines and spirits, and the abrogation of the regulation which
obliges ships laden with liquors to pay, and support the Custom-house
guard, put on board to watch over their shipment or discharge.
Large facilities of deposit, of transit, and of transhipment granted to
the trade in spirits.
6. The reimbursement of all the duties received in virtue of the
disposition, the withdrawal of which is demanded by the paragraph
above mentioned; or a proportional indemnity given for the damage
occasioned to French commerce, by the restriction which has suspended
its relations.
~7. The reimbursement of the fine of 25 dollars, paid by the French
ship General Teste, and besides an indemnity of 60 dollars for the time
during which she was unjustly detained here.
8. The insertion in the official journal of the Hawaiian Government, of
the punishment inflicted upon the scholars of the high-school, whose impious conduct occasioned the complaints of the Abb6 Coulon.
9. The removal of the governor, who caused or allowed to be violated
on Hawaii, the domicil of the Abb6 Marechal, or the order to that governor to mlake reparation to that missionary, the one or the other decision to be inserted in the official journal.
10. The payment to a French citizen, proprietor of the Hotel of
France, of the damages committed in his house by foreign sailors, against
whom the Hawaiian Government took no process.
The Commissioner of the French Republic,
(Signed,)        EM. PERRIN.
Honolulu, 1st February, 1851.




330           LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
REPLIES BY AMI. WYLLIE.
On behalf of the Hawaiian Government, to the demands of the French,
presented by M. Perrin, on the 1st February, 1851, to enable him to
satisfy himself and the French government, upon all points.
1. The adoption complete, entire, and loyal, of the Treaty of the 26th
March, 1846, as it was drafted in the French Text, and signed in the
Hawaiian and French languages, and in all cases before the foreign
judges who do not understand French, the text of the British Treaty
declared by M. Guizot, to have been drawn up, in the same terms with
the French, and so declared by M. Perrin himself at the conference of
the 26th March, 1846, to be held as a translation of the French Text,
the correctness of which is not to be disputed.
2. The Hawaiian Government do not admit that in the duty of $5
per gallon, on spirits, they have gone beyond the power conveyed to
them exclusively by France herself in the words used by her in the VI.
article of the said Treaty; they have shown that the effect of that duty
has been beneficial to France, in an eminent degree, while it has been
injurious to the trade in British and American spirits; bat they are
willing to submit the question of a reduction to $2 per gallon to the
approaching Legislature, as a measure of political economy, and upon
moral grounds recommended by the Chamber of Commerce.
3. The King's Government cannot admit the right of any foreign nation
to dictate to them, or prescribe laws on matters affecting only the religious belief and secular education of the King's native subjects. But
they are willing to receive the demands of M. Perrin, under the 3d
article, in the light of friendly suggestions for the consideration of the
Legislature, so far as the already perfect equality of Catholics and
Protestants, under the Constitution and Laws, of which abundant proof
has already been given, may leave any thing to be provided for.
4. Documents presented by French citizens in their own language
shall be received in all cases where documents in English are received,
but in cases where the officer whose duty it is to act upon them does
not understand the French, it shall be the duty of the applicant to furnish a translation of his document, which, to prevent dispute or error of
judgment, shall be by him authenticated, under the signature and seal
of the Consul of France.
5. The King's Government would gladly withdraw any exception to
French whalers, if any such existed, but it has been already shown that
no such exception ever existed. French whalers are entirely upon the
same footing in all respects as the whalers of any other foreign nation.
France cannot claim more, in accordance with the Treaty of 26th March,
1846, and the King cannot grant more to France, in conformity with his




THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                   331
treaties with other powers. The same remark applies to the Customhouse regulations respecting the payment of a guard on board, deposit,
transit, and transhipment of spirits.
6. No reimbursement or indemnity can be given where no wrong has
been done. To admit the contrary would imply a violation of the
Treaty, which the King's Government are justified by all concurrent
opinion, and by the clear and natural wording of the Treaty, in denying.
France cannot insist that this government should affix upon itself a stain,
which in its own opinion and that of the world it does not deserve.
7. The King's Government would annihilate their right to claim of
foreign ships the observance of their Port Regulations, if they were to
return the fine of $25 imposed on the ship General Teste; or allow $60
for a delay in port, for which the captain alone was to blame. All that
was shown clearly to M. Dillon, in Mr. Wyllie's dispatch No. 53, of 25th
November, 1848, published at page 41 of the published correspondence
with that gentleman. The King's Government always considered, and
consider still, that they deserve thanks for having' reduced the fine, legally incurred by the General Teste, from $500 to $25. The law which
the captain of the General Teste had violated is quoted at page 44 of
that correspondence.
8. All that M. Dillon asked for on the 16th April, 1849, with reference
to the complaint of the Abb6 Coulon, was to be informed what measures
would be taken to prevent such acts as he had complained of. That
was all that the Rev. Abbe, who, with a moderation worthy of his clerical character, had declined appearing before the native judge, had re
quired him to do. Mr. Wyllie courteously received M. Dillon's dispatch,
and referred the complaint to the King's Minister of Public Instruction,
as will be seen by referring to Mr. Wyllie's note No. 34, of 19th April,
1849, page 317, of the same correspondence, and that Minister, after explaining the case, replied, as will be seen at page 360, that should like
cases occur in future, on being duly informed it will be his duty to give
notice to the proper officer, that he might proceed against the offenders
according to law. It is understood the native judge before whom the
boys were carried dismissed the case, on the ground of want of proof.
If the Rev. Abbe had made his complaint to the Minister of Public Instruction, either directly or through his bishop, (which would have been
preferable,) on proof of their delinquency, the boys would have been
punished severely, under the law, section VI., chapter VI., part IV.,
stcond Act of Kamehameha III.; and if the judge had neglected his
duty, he would have been liable to the punishment provided for in the
law of 31st May, 1841, page 89 of the old laws. The King's Government
do not'encourage sacrilege of any kind; the law amply provides for its
punishment, and if the Bishop will instruct his clergy in all such cases
to prefer a written complaint to the Minister of Public Instruction, it
will be his duty to see the law rigidly enforced against proved delin



332           LIFE IN THE SAINDWICH ISLANDS.
quents. It is not believed that the offence complained of has since been
repeated anywhere on the Islands.
9. The facts stated by his Excellency, the Governor of Hawaii, published at page 59 of the official correspondence with Admiral de Tromelin, make it appear that the Abb6 Marechal either screened or caused
to be screened, in his domicil, a fugitive from justice. By referring to
Mr. Wyllie's dispatch of the 24th August, 1849, published at page 67
of the same correspondence, it will be seen that the King's Government
had no intelligence of such a complaint till it had been magnified very
irregularly with a formal international demand. It will not be contended that on the mere complaint of a Catholic priest to a French
Consul (in itself a contempt of the magistracy of the country) there
should be a just cause why the Governor of the largest island of the
kingdom should be dismissed without a hearing. That would indeed
be a strange doctrine under the laws of nations, and a singular interpretation of the 2d article of the Treaty of the 26th March, 1846. Process at law against the Governor, before the King's chief-justice, was
offered to M. Dillon, and even a free passage to Hawaii in the King's
yacht, that he might witness the fairness of the proceedings. M. Dillon
did not accept the offer, but the courts of the country are still open to
the Rev. Abb6 if he wish to prosecute.
10. The receipt of Victor Chancerel for $93.50, is in the archives
of the Foreign Office. It rests upon the authority of British officers
that Victor's original bill for damages was only for $S, (see page
53 of the same correspondence,) so that the claim of Chancerel was
paid more than ten times over, on the 30th of August, 1849, a fact with
many others, which General Lahitte could not possibly have known
when he placed the ten demands of France in the hands of M. Perrin.
The King's Government invite the Government of France to adopt
the same Treaty, mutatis mutandis, as that lately formed with the
United States, or to consider the present Treaty at an end in 12 months
from this date, and in the mean while to form a new Treaty free frorm
the objections and ambiguities of the old.
The King's Government consider that France is specially bound to
remove.all the restrictions imposed on the King, in the 3d and 6th articles of the Treaty of 26th March 1846, both because he was deprived
of his rightftl. prerogatives of sovereignty by a French officer, under a
threat of instant war, and because the Government consented to the
reduction of the duties on -vines, on the condition of the removal of
those restrictions to which M. Dillon repeatedly pledged himself with
emphatic promises of his best endeavors.
The King's Government desire a mutual accord between France,
Great Britain, and the United States, so as to render their treaties
uniform on these Islands, to provide for a settlement of all disputes
arising under them by amicable reference, to respect the King's neue




THE HEART OF THIE PACIFIC.                    333
trality in all -wars one with another, and to adopt one common rule, in
regard to the duties and conduct of their political agents, towards the
King's Administration, so as to relieve it from an oppressive and vexatious interference, depriving the King's officers of all time to attend to
the internal interests of the country. If things are to continue as they
have been, the Government of the country as an independent state is
an impracticability.
R. C. WYLLIE.
Foreign Office, 15th March, 1851.
PROTOCOL of Tuesday,, 18th Jearch, 1851.
The undersigned met at the usual hour; the Commissioner of the
French Republic returned the draft of explanations on each of his ten
demands, which he had received from Mr. Wyllie, and at the same time
delivered to him a draft of the final note drawn up by him and containing the whole of the solutions given to the demands above mentioned.
After having read that document, Mr. Wyllie declared that hle refused
to admit its tenor, because it exacted of the King what, in his eyes,
could not be demanded of him, either by right of the laws of nations,
or in virtue of the existing treaty with France; adding, however, that
he would translate the draft as received, and would try its lawfulness
by comparisons with tile text of the Law, of Nations, and would produce, in the natme of the Hawaiian Government, a commentary on each
of the articles of the treaty, showing that that Convention had been
faithfully executed, in every part, to this very day.
M. Perrin refused to enter upon such a course, asserting that at the
point to which the negotiation had arrived, such a proposal -was inadmissible.
Mr. Wyllie then said that he could not think the desire of M. Perrin
was to render the Government of the King impracticable, and to provoke a crisis disastrous to his independence and for the future interests
of the commnnerce and shipping of France in the Northern Pacific Ocean.
He suggested, in consequence, a solution of all the questions, honorable
in his view for France, acceptable and beneficial to the King.
M. Perrin declared that he would consider all these projects, in view
of the graveness of circumstances.
Mr. Wyllie asked permission to add, on the subject of a suggestion
contained in the project of M. Perrin, and relative to a national salute
to be given by the Hawaiian Fort to France, at the moment when the
French Consular Flag should be again raised, that 2:I. Dillon had voluntarily hauled down his flag, in spite of the protest of the Hawaiian
Government, and that he could notify to l3. Perrin, officially, with the
full authority of the Kijg, as he now did, that the Government of Kamehanmeha III. would never accept one dollar of indemnity firom France,
for the damages occasioned, and for the royal yacht taken away, unless
a clear expression of regret for such injuries, and a salute in honor of the




334           LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
King as sovereign, whose authority had been usurped in his own dominions, should first be granted.
M. Perrin expressed his regret on being so late informed of an opinion
entirely contrary to the views of the French Government; he brought
to mind that often already he had officially and verbally announced
that the object of his mission was not to come and give satisfaction to a
Government, although he came, on the contrary, to demand it with all
the moderation which became the power of the French Republic, adding
that that declaration had never provoked the least observation on the
part of Mr. Wyllie. The Minister then said that that Resolution had
only recently been taken in Council.
Mr. Wyllie besides declared that if this point of etiquette, in the
opinion of M. Perrin, should prevent the re-establishment of diplomatic
relations with France, she would lose nothing by it; that her interests
in this Archipelago would not suffer, because he believed that the King
would not the less continue to treat the French and their interests on
the footing of the most favored nation.
The undersigned adjourned until to-morrow at 11 A. M.
R. C. WYLLIE,
Minister of Foreign Relations.
Le Commissaire de la R6publique Francaise,
EM. PERRIN.
PRoTocoL of Wednesday, 19th March, 1851.
The undersigned met at the usual hour.
After having compared together the two drafts of declaration proposed by Mr. Wyllie, and that which he himself had brought the day
before, the Commissionor of the French Republic offered to Mr. Wyllie
to accept, in the name of France, four of the solutions which the Minister had indicated in his draft of the 15th instant, reserving to himself
to ask new instructions from his Government in regard to the solutions
offered on the other points of his note of the 1st February last, before
proceeding further.
This proposal having been agreed to, the Minister said that he would
submit the drafts of Declaration to the King in Cabinet, and then in
Privy Council; and to allow time for that consultation and deliberation,
the undersigned agreed to postpone their next meeting until Saturday
the 22d instant.
M. Perrin added that in a note to be dated this day he would define
the character in which hle would remain, until his new instructions should
arrive from France.
R. C. WYLLIE,
Minister of Foreign Relations.
Le Commissaire de la R6publique Francaise,
EM. PERRIN.




THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                  335
PROTOCOL of Saturday, 22d March, 1851.
The two negotiators, undersigned, met at mid-day, as had been agreed
upon.
Mr. Wyllie presented to M. Perrin a translation in the English language of the Declaration agreed upon, in which the Alternat was clearly
preserved in favor of the King of the Sandwich Islands.
M. Perrin remarked that before all he had to sign the French and
Hawaiian Texts, which were not prepared; that in these original documents he could not grant the Alternat to the King of the Hawaiian
Islands, in conformity with the usage of France, Great Britain, and the
United States; that from the 15th of January he had announced to the
Minister that it would be only after the adjustment of the difficulties
actually pending, that he could examine this question of etiquette, referring it to Paris, and then conforming to the orders which he should
receive; that until then he could only maintain the statu quo; that this
measure adopted for the originals ought necessarily to be in their translation. Mr. Wyllie having replied that he understood the Alternat as
allowed to the King both by Great Britain and the United States, and
that it was generally granted between the great powers, and even the
middling, M. Perrin answered that he did not consider that the Hawvaiian Kingdom had attained either of these two ranks.
Mr. Wyllie then produced one original of the English treaty of the
26th March, 1846, in which the signature of the Minister was before that
of the Consul-general of England. M. Perrin observed that the only
original published by the Hawaiian Government placed the signature of
the agent of Great Britain on the same line as that of the Minister.
To cut this discussion short, the undersigned have agreed from this time
to follow the precedent of Englhnd, under all the reserves of the rights
of both Governments.
It was agreed that the resolution of the King of the Sandwich Islands, containing the promise to refer to the decision of the President of
the French Republic the question of indemnities reclaimed by the
Hawaiian Government in consequence of the events of the month of
August, 1849, shall be (subject to the King's pleasure) transmitted in an
official note, to which the Commissioner of the French Republic will
reply, accepting that offer, in the name of the Prince President.
The undersigned, at their separation, agreed to meet again on Tuesday
next at mid-day.
R. C. WYLLIE,
Minister of Foreign Relations.
Le Commissaire de la R6publique Francaise,
EM. PERRIN.
PROTOCOL of Tuesday, 25th MJarch, 1851.
The undersigned negotiators met this day, as had been agreed upon
at their last conference of the 22d instant.




336           LIFE IN TtHE SANDWVICHI ISLANDS.
Before proceeding to the exchange of their respective powers, the
undersigned employed themselves in comparing the French and English
texts of the PROTOCOLS of the 15th, 18th, 19th, and 22d instant, and
afterwards affixed thereto their signatures.
Mr. Wyllie remarked that after having hastily finished translations of
M. Perrin's dispatch No. 18, of the 22d of this month, and of his "VERBAL
NOTE" accompanying it, he desired to revise them with the French.Commissioner, so as that when rendering an account thereof to the King and
Council, he might be sure to convey the true meaning of M. Perrin.
This verification was immediately made.
Mr. Wyllie then begged permission of the French Commissioner to
read to him the notes No. 22, 23, 24, and 25, dated this day, all drafted
in haste by him, but which it had been impossible for his Secretary to
copy.
After reading them, the Minister expressed his strong hope that the
French Government would consider all the points upon which a solution
was deferred till after their Commissioner had referred them, as insignificant compared with those which had been settled; the Commissioner
of the French Republic manifested a different opinion, and the two negotiators then agreed to give a new proof of their sincere desire to arrive,
as soon as possible, at the re-establishment of relations between the two
countries, by continuing to discuss, officially, and in a conciliatory spirit,
in a series of new conferences, the divers points remaining to be settled,
but that no new -Declaration shall be made, till after the arrival of the
instructions asked for of the French Government, by their Special Commissioner.
Mr. Wyllie asked M. Perrin's leave to call his attention to a claim
which he had completely forgotten, at the moment of making out the
Schedule of indemnities
The undersigned then exchanged their respective powers, signed and
sealed three originals of the Declaration agreed upon in French and
Hawaiian, at 5 o'clock P. M., making mutual reserves in regard to the
right of "Alternat."
The undersigned then adjourned their sitting, sine die.
R. C. WYLLIE,
Minister of Foreign Relations.
Le Commissaire de la R6publique Franl.aise,
EM. PERRIN.




THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                  33T
DECLARATION.
THE President of the French Republic, and the King of the Hawaiian
Islands, animated by an equal desire to terminate the adjustment o
pending difficulties between the two countries, and to prevent their
return for the future, by assuring the just and complete execution of
the convention of the 26th of March, 1846, in regard to the points in
controversy, through a new official act, destined to interpret it, have
chosen, for this purpose, the undersigned Commissioner of the French
Republic, and Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Hawaiian Kingdom, the
signers of the Treaty above mentioned, who, after having exchanged their
full powers, found in good form, have agreed to the terms of the following declaration:
1. The Treaty of the 26th of March, 1846, will be faithfully adopted
and interpreted in the two texts, French and Hawaiian, the only ones
officially signed. It remains agreed in all the cases where the foreign
judges not understanding French have to decide, the texts of the English treaty, officially declared identical, under reserve of the III. article,
shall be considered as an exact translation.
2. Without admitting that by the establishment of a Custom-house
duty of $5 per gallon upon spirits, the Hawaiian Government have gone
beyond the exclusive power which France herself had granted to them,
through the means of the wording of the VI. article of the Treaty above
mentioned-an assertion, in regard to which, the undersigned French
Commissioner makes all reserves-and after having proved that the
effects of that duty have been profitable to France, and hurtful to the
English and American trade in spirits-the King of the Sandwich Islands declares himself disposed to submit the question of the reduction
of duty to $2.50 cents per gallon, as a maximum, to the legislature,
which is to assemble next month, as a measure of political economy,
which the Chamber of Commerce of Honolulu have recommended on
strong grounds.
3. The government of the king cannot recognize, on the part of any
foreign nation, the right of dictating or prescribing laws to them, on
matters which affect only the religious belief or secular education of the
native subjects of the king; nevertheless, disposed to admit the third
of the demands presented by M. Perrin, on the 1st of February last, as
a friendly suggestion, destined for the examination of the legislature
which is to assemble this year, the Hawaiian Government will place
these assemblies in a position to decide, if the equality between the
Catholics and the Protestants, under the protection of the Constitution
and the Laws, of which numerous proofs have been furnished, do not
yet require something for its perfect application.
4. Documents presented by French citizens, in their own language,
15




338         LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
will be received in all the cases in which documents in the English lan.
guage are received; but, in the cases where the employees whose duty
it is to make use of these documents do not understand French, it shall
be incumbent, provisionally, on the party interested, to furnish a translation of the document produced, which, to prevent all error and discussion, shall be certified by him as true.
Honolulu, 25th March, 1851.
R. C. WYLLIE,
Minister of Foreign Relations.
Le Commissaire de la R6publique Francaise,
EM. PERRIN.
From  the foregoing papers it will be seen that the
controversy  of the Hawaiian  government with  the
French is in the way of adjustment.  " All that is wanting is for France to restore harmony; for, on behalf of
the king's government, they have never for one moment
deviated from their policy of treating France, her citizens, and all their interests, on the footing of the most
favored nation. That this wise and nnresenting policy
will be duly appreciated by the French government, is
not to be doubted. But, to crown all, King Kamehameha
III., with a magnanimity worthy of a sovereign, refers
his claims for indemnity for severe losses sustained,
without requiring the punishment of the authors, to
the President of France himself; thus proving to the
world alike his confidence in the justice of his own
cause, and in the justice of Prince Louis Napoleon
Bonaparte, in whose hands he places it."
In his speech at the opening of the Hawaiian Parliament, on the 10th of May, 1851, the king uses the
following language: " Diplomatic Relations have not
been fully restored with France, but having, on my
part, referred certain claims for indemnity to the Presi



THE HEART  OF THE PACIFIC.       339
dent of the French Republic, I hope that he, leeting
me in a corresponding spirit, will issue such instructions as to put an end to an attitude of hostility towards
my kingdom, taken by France, which I have ever regretted, and have never sought, in any way, to retaliate.
I am not conscious of any act of my government, of
which France has any reason to complain."
The simple utterance of the above sentence by His
Majesty, says the Polynesian, felt, as it is, to be the
simple truth, has more force than a thousand volumes
of subtle reasoning, in convincing: the judgment, and
in nerving the heart. And the sentiment-is not confined to the breast of His Majesty; it is entertained by
every member of his government, and is the universal
sentiment of the world. Its truth calls forth the symnpathies of all his subjects, and unites the opinions of
all classes upon his shores.
It is understood that negotiations are in progress
with the United States, at Washington, through an
authorized agent of the Hawaiian kingdom, which
have for their end either the establishment of an
American Protectorate at the Sandwich Islands, or
their annexation to the American Union, in the event
of the non-establishment of permanent friendly relations
with France on a satisfactory and independent basis.
Certain significant events of Providence, and the fact
that the Hawaiian Islands are already a virtual colony
of the United States, a missionary offshoot from the
stock of New England, together with the "manifest
destiny" view of the extension of American institutions,




340          LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
give a strong probability to what might otherwise seem
but a presumption, namely, that the lapse of a few
years will find the Heart of the Pacific a twin heart
with the great American Republic, organized under
the same laws, and beating with the same Anglo-Saxon
blood that shall animate the united millions of all
North America between the Atlantic and Pacific.
The law of progress and of conquest by arts and emigration  is so clearly impressed  upon  the American
division of the Anglo-Saxon family, that it is like a
denial of Providence and Destiny to doubt its great
and glorious issues, or the triumphs it is yet to achieve
on the field  of'social progress and humanity.  We
quote, as in place here, the following paper on
THE PROGRESS OF THE ANGLO-SAXON RACE.
By a fortunate coincidence, the general total of the American census
taken last year has just been received, and we are enabled, in conjunction with the returns made on the 31st of March for this country, to
measure the absolute progress of the Anglo-Saxon race in its two grand
divisions, and to comrpare the laws of their respective growths in relation
to each other and to the rest of the world. It is estimated, including
Ireland and the colonies, that there is a grand total of men speaking the
same language and manifesting the same general tendencies of civilization, of fifty-six millions, from which is to be deducted the three millions
of negro slaves in the United States, leaving a remainder of fifty-three
millions, chiefly of Anglo-Saxon descent, and deeply impregnated with
its sturdy qualities of heart and brain, as the representative of this
advancing stock.
Two centuries ago there were not quite three millions of this race on
the face of the earth. There are a million more persons of Magyar
descent, speaking the Magyar language, at the present moment in
Europe than there were in Europe and America of this conquering and
colonizing people in the time of Cromwell. How vain, then, for men to
talk of the political necessity for absorbing small races! Sixty years
ago, the Anglo-Saxon race did not exceed seventeen millions in Europe
and America. At that time it was not numerically stronger than the




THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                  341
Poles. Thirty years ago it counted only thirty-four millions; being
altogether only three millions and a fraction more than the population
of France at that time, and considerably less than the Teutonic population of Central Europe. In 1851 it is ahead of every civilized race in
the world. Of races lying within the zones of civilization, the Sclaves
alone are more numerous, counted by heads; but comparatively few
of this plastic and submissive stock have yet escaped from the barbarism
of the dark ages. In wealth, energy, and cultivation, they are not to be
compared with the Frank, the Teuton, and the Anglo-Saxon. Number
is almost their only element of strength.
Of all the races which are now striving for the mastery of the world,
to impress on the future of society and civilization the stamp of its own
character and genius, to make its law, idiom, religion, manners, government, and opinion prevail, the Anglo-Saxon is now unquestionably the
most numerous, powerful, and active. The day when it might possibly
have been crushed, absorbed, or trampled out, like Hungary and Poland,
by stronger hordes, is gone by forever. That it was possible at one
time for this people to be subdued by violence, or to fall a prey to the
slower agonies of decline, there can be little doubt. In 1650 the United
Provinces seemed more likely to make a grand figure in the world's
future history than England. Their wealth, activity, and maritime
power were the most imposing in Europe. They had all the carrying
trade of the west in their hands. Their language was spoken in every
port. In the great Orient their empire was fixed and their influence
paramount. England was then hardly known abroad. Her difficult
idiom grated on foreign ears, and her stormy coasts repelled the curiosity
of more cultivated travellers. And if the thought of a day arriving when
any single European language would be spoken by millions of persons,
scattered over the great continents of the earth from New Zealand to
the Hebrides, and from the Cape of Storms to the Arctic Ocean, occurred
to any speculative mind, Dutch, not English, would probably have been
the tongue to which he would have assigned the marvellous mission.
Yet Holland has fallen nearly as much as the Saxon has risen in
the scale of nations. I-Ier idiom is now acquired by few. Her merchants
conduct their correspondence and transact their business in French or in
English. Even her writers have many of them clothed their genius in a
foreign garb. On the other hand, our literature and language have
passed entirely out of this phase of danger. Dutch, like Welsh, Flemish,
Erse, Basque, and other idioms, is doomed to perish as an intellectual
medium; but whatever may be the future changes of the world, the
tongue of Shakspeare and of Bacon is now too firmly rooted ever to be
torn away. No longer content with mere preservation, it aims at universal mastery. - Gradually it is taking possession of all the ports and
coasts of the world; isolating all rival idioms, shutting them up from
intercourse with each other, making itself the channel of every commu




342          LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
nication. At a hundred points at once it plays the aggressor. It contends with Spanish on the frontiers of Mexico; drives French and
Russian before it in Canada and in the Northern Archipelago; supersedes
Dutch at the Cape and Natal; elbows Greek and Italian at Malta and
in the Ionian Islands; usurps the right of Arabic at Suez and Alexandria;
maintains itself supreme at Liberia, Hongkong, Jamaica, and St. Helena;
fights its way against multitudinous and various dialects in the Rocky
Mountains, in Central America, on the Gold Coast, in the interior of
Australia, and among the countless islands in the Eastern Seas. No
other language is spreading in this way. French and German find
students among cultivated men; but English permanently destroys and
supersedes the idioms with which it comes in contact.
The relative growth of the two great Anglo-Saxon States is note.
worthy. In 1801 the population of Great Britain was 10,942,646; in
1800 that of the United States was 5,319,762, or not quite half. In 1850
the population of the United States was two millions and a third more
than that of Great Britain in 1851; at this moment it probably exceeds
it by three millions. The rate of decennial increase in this country is less
than 15 per cent., while in America it is about 35 per cent. In the
great Continental States the rate is considerably lower than in England.
According to the progress of the last fifty years in France and in America,
the United States will have the larger population in 1870; in 1900 they
will exceed those of England, France, Spain, Portugal, Denmark, Sweden,
and Switzerland combined. Prudent statesmen should bear these facts
in mind. Many persons now alive may see the time when America
will be of more importance to us, socially, commercially, and politically,
than all Europe put together. Old diplomatic traditions will go for
little in face of a transatlantic power numbering one hundred millions of
free and energetic men of our own race and blood.-Athenceum.
COPY OF THE LATE TREATY BETWEEN THE UNITED
STATES AND SANDWICH ISLANDS.
THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA AND HIS MAJESTY THE KING OF THE
HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, equally animated with the desire of maintaining the
relations of good understanding which have hitherto so happily subsisted
between their respective States, and consolidating the commercial intercourse between them, have agreed to enter into negotiations for the
conclusion of a treaty of Friendship, Commerce, and Navigation, for
which purpose they have appointed Plenipotentiaries, that is to say:
The President of the United States of America, John M. Clayton,
Secretary of State of the United States; and His Majesty the King of
the Hawaiian Islands, James Jackson Jarves, accredited as his Special




THE HEART  OF THE PACIFIC.                343
Commissioner to the Government of the United States; who, after
having exchanged their full powers, found in good and due form, have
concluded and signed the following articles:
ARTICLE 1.-There shall be perpetual peace and amity between the
United States and the King of the Hawaiian Islands, his heirs, and his
successors.
ARTICLE 2.-There shall be reciprocal liberty of commerce and navigation between the United States of America and the Hawaiian Islands.
No duty of customs or other impost shall be charged upon any goods,
the produce or manufacture of one country, upon importation from such
country into the other, other or higher than the duty or impost charged
upon goods of the same kind, the produce or manufacture of, or imported
from any other country; and the United States of America, and His
Majesty the King of the Hawaiian Islands do hereby engage, that the
subjects or citizens of any other State shall not enjoy any favor, privilege, or immunity whatever, in matters of commerce and navigation,
which shall not also, at the same time, be extended to the subjects or
citizens of the other contracting parties gratuitously, if the concession
in favor of that other State shall have been gratuitous, and in return for
a compensation, as nearly as possible, of proportionate value and effect,
to be adjusted by mutual agreement, if the concession shall have been
conditional.
ARTICLE 3.-All articles, the produce and manufacture of either country
which can legally be imported into either country from the other, in
ships of that other country, and thence coming, shall, when so imported,
be subject to the same duties, and enjoy the same privileges, whether
imported in ships of the one country, or in ships of the other; and in
like manner, all goods which can legally be exported or re-exported
from either country to the other, in ships of that other country, shall,
when so exported or re-exported, be subject to the same duties, and be entitled to the same privileges, drawbacks, bounties, and allowances, whether
exported in ships of the one country or in ships of the other; and all
goods and articles, of whatever description, not being of the produce or
manufacture of the United States, which can be legally imported into
the Sandwich Islands, shall, when so imported in vessels of the United
States, pay no other or higher duties, imposts, or charges, than shall be
payable upon the like goods and articles, when imported in the vessels
of the most favored foreign nation other than the nation of which the
said goods and articles are the produce or manufacture.
ARTIcLE 4.-No duties of tonnage, harbor, light-houses, pilotage, quarantine, or other similar duties, of whatever nature, or under whatever
denomination, shall be imposed in either country upon the vessels of the
other, in respect of voyages between the United States of America and
the Hawaiian Islands, if laden, or in respect of any voyage, if in ballast,
which shall not be equally imposed in the like cases on national vessels.




344           LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLA:NDS.
ARTICLE 5.-It is hereby declared, that the stipulations of the present
treaty are not to be understood as applying to the navigation and carrying trade between one port and another situated in the States of either
contracting party, such navigation and trade being reserved exclusively
to national vessels.
ARTICLE 6.-Steam-vessels of the United States which may be employed by the government of the said States, in the carrying of their
public mails across the Pacific Ocean, or from one port in that ocean to
another, shall have free access to the ports of the Sandwich Islands,
with the privilege of stopping therein to refit, to refresh, to land passengers and their baggage, and for the transaction of any business pertaining to the public mail service of the United States, and shall be
subject in such ports to no duties of tonnage, harbor, light-houses, quarantine, or other similar duties, of whatever nature or under whatever
denomination.
ARTICLE 7.-The whale-ships of the United States shall have access
to the ports of Hilo, Kealakekua, and Hanalei, in the Sandwich Islands,
for the purposes of refitment and refreshment, as well as to the ports
of Honolulu and Lahaina, which only are ports of entry for all merchant
vessels, and in all the above-named ports, they shall be permitted to
trade or barter their supplies or goods, excepting spirituous liquors, to
the amount of two hundred dollars, acd valoream, for each vessel, without
paying any charge for tonnage or harbor dues of any description, or
any duties or imposts whatever upon the goods or articles so traded or
bartered. They shall also be permitted, with the like exemption from
all charges for tonnage and harbor dues, further to trade or barter, with
the same exemption as to spirituous liquors, to the additional amount of
one thousand dollars, ad valoremz, for each vessel, paying upon the additional goods and articles so traded and bartered, no other or higher
duties than are payable on like goods and articles, when imported in
the vessels and by the citizens or subjects of the most favored foreign
nation. They shall also be permitted to pass from port to port of the
Sandwich Islands for the purpose of procuring refreshments, but they
shall not discharge their seamen or land their passengers in the said
Islands, except at Lahaina and Honolulu; and in all the ports named in
this article, the whale-ships of the United States shall enjoy in all respects whatsoever, all the rights, privileges, and immunities, which are
enjoyed by, or shall be granted to, the whale-ships of the most favored
foreign lnation. The like privilege of frequenting the three ports of the
Sandwich Islands above-named in this article, not being ports of entry
for merchant vessels, is also guarantied to all the public armed vessels
of the United States. But nothing in this article shall be construed as
authorizing any vessel of the United States, having on board any disease usually regarded as requiring quarantine, to enter, during the con



THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                   345
tinuance of such disease on board, any port of the Sandwich Islands,
other than Lahaina or Honolulu.
ARTICLE 8.-The contracting parties engage, in regard to the personal
privileges, that the citizens of the United States of America shall enjoy
in the dominions of His Majesty the King of the Hawaiian Islands, and
the subjects of his said Majesty in the United States of America, that
they shall have free and undoubted right to travel and to reside in the
States of the two high contracting parties, subject to the same precautions of police which are practised towards the subjects or citizens of
the most favored nations. They shall be entitled to occupy dwellings
and warehouses, and to dispose of their personal property of every kind
and description, by sale, gift, exchange, will, or in any other way whatever, without the smallest hindrance or obstacle; and their heirs or representatives, being subjects or citizens of the other contracting party,
shall succeed to their personal goods, whether by testament or ab intestato; and may take possession thereof, either by themselves, or by
others acting for them, and dispose of the same at will, paying to the
profit of the respective governments such dues only as the inhabitants
of the country wherein the said goods are, shall be subject to pay in
like cases. And in case of the absence of the heirs and representative,
such care shall be taken of the said goods as would be taken of the goods
of a native of the same country in like case, until the lawful owner may
take measures for receiving them. And if a question should arise among
several claimants as to which of them said goods belong, the same shall
be decided finally by the laws and judges of the land wherein the said
goods are. Where, on the decease of any person holding real estate
within the territories of one party, such real estate would, by the laws
of the land, descend on a citizen or subject of the other, were he not
disqualified by alienage, such citizen or subject shall be allowed a
reasonable time to sell the same, and to withdraw the proceeds without
molestation, and exempt fiom all duties of detraction on the part of the
government of the respective States. The citizens or subjects of the
contracting parties shall not be obliged to pay, under any pretence whatever, any taxes or impositions, other or greater than those which are
paid, or may hereafter be paid, by the subjects or citizens of the most
favored nations in the respective States of the high contracting parties.
They shall be exempt from all military service, whether by land or by
sea; from forced loans, and from every extraordinary contribution not
general and by law established. Their dwellings, warehouses, and all
prenmises appertaining thereto, destined for the purposes of commerce or
residence, shall be respected. No arbitrary search of, or visit to their
houses, and no arbitrary examination or inspection whatever of the books,
papers, or accounts of their trade, shall be made; but such measures
shall be executed only in conformity with the legal sentence of a competent tribunal; and each of the two contracting parties engages that
15*




346           LIFE IN  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.
the citizens or subjects of the other residing in their respective States,
shall enjoy their property and personal security, in as full and ample
manner as their own citizens or subjects, or the subjects or citizens of
the most favored nation, but subject always to the laws and statutes of
the two countries respectively.
ARTICLE 9.-The citizens and subjects of each of the two contracting
parties shall be free in the States of the other to manage their own
affairs themselves, or to commit those affairs to the management of any
persons whom they may appoint as their broker, factor, or agent; nor
shall the citizens and subjects of the two contracting parties be restrained
in their choice of persons to act in such capacities, nor shall they be
called upon to pay any salary or remuneration to any person whom
they shalt not choose to employ. Absolute freedom shall be given in
all cases to the buyer and seller to bargain together, and to fix the
price of any goods or merchandise imported into, or to be exported
from, the States and dominions of the two contracting parties; save and
except generally such cases wherein the laws and usages of the country
may require the intervention of any special agents in the States and
dominions of the contracting parties. But nothing contained in this or
allny other article of the present treaty shall be construed to authorize
the sale of spirituous liquors to the natives of the Sandwich Islands
further than such sale may be allowed by the Hawaiian laws.
ARTICLE 10.-Each of the two contracting parties may have, in the
ports of the other, consuls, vice-consuls, and commercial agents, of their
own appointment, who shall enjoy the same privileges and powers with
those of the most favored nation; but if any such consuls shall exercise
commerce, they shall be subject to the same laws and usages to which
the private individuals of their nation are subject in the same place.
The said consuls, vice-consuls, and commercial agents, are authorized to
require the assistance of the local authorities for the search, arrest,
detention, and imprisonment of the deserters from the ships of war and
merchant vessels of their country. For this purpose they shall apply
to the competent tribunals, judges, and officers, and shall in writing
demand the said deserters, proving, by the exhibition of registers of the
vessels, the rolls of the crews, or by other official documents, that such
individuals formed part of the crews; and this reclamation being thus
substantiated, the surrender shall not be refused. Such deserters when
arrested shall be placed at the disposal of the said consuls, vice-consuls,
or commercial agents, and may be confined in the public prisons at the
request and cost of those who shall claim them, in order to be detained
until the time when they shall be restored to the vessel to which they
belonged, or sent back to their own country by a vessel of the same
nation or any other vessel whatsoever. The agents, owners, or masters
of vessels, on account of whom the deserters have been apprehended,
upon requisition of the local authorities, shall be required to take or




THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                     34:7
send away such deserters from the States and dominions of the contracting parties, or give such security for their good conduct as the law may
require. But if not sent back nor reclaimed within six months from the
day of their arrest, or if all the expenses of such imprisonment are not
defrayed by the party causing such arrest and imprisonment, they shall
be set at liberty, and shall not be again arrested for the same cause.
However, if the deserters should be found to have committed any
crime or offence, their surrender may be delayed until the tribunal
before whom their case shall be depending shall have pronounced its
sentence and such sentence shall have been carried into effect.
ARTICLE 11.-It is agreed that perfect and entire liberty of conscience
shall be enjoyed by the citizens and subjects of both the contracting
parties, in the countries of the one and the other, without their being
liable to be disturbed or molested on account of their religious belief.
But nothing contained in this article shall be construed to interfere
with the exclusive right of the Hawaiian Government to regulate
for itself the'schools which it may establish or support within its
jurisdiction.
ARTICLE 12.-If any ships of war or other vessels be wrecked on the
coasts of the States or territories of either of the contracting parties,
such ships or vessels, or any parts thereof, and all furniture and appurtenances belonging thereunto, and all goods and merchandise which
shall be saved therefrom, or the produce thereof if sold, shall be faithfully restored with the least possible delay to the proprietors, upon
being claimed by them, or by their duly authorized factors; and if
there are no such proprietors or factors on the spot, then the said goods
and merchandise, or the proceeds thereof, as well as all the papers
found on board such wrecked ships or vessels, shall be delivered to the
American or Hawaiian consul or vice-consul in whose district the wreck
may have taken place; and such consul, vice-consul, proprietors, or
factors, shall pay only the expenses incurred in the preservation of the
property, together with the rate of salvage and expenses of quarantine
which would have been payable in the like case of a wreck of a national
vessel; and the goods and merchandise saved from the wreck shall not
be subject to duties unless entered for consumption; it being understood
that in case of any legal claim upon such wreck, goods, or merchandise,
the same shall be referred for decision to the competent tribunals of
the country.
ARTIcLE 13.-The vessels of either of the two contracting parties
which may be forced by stress of weather or other cause into one of the
ports of the other, shall be exempt from all duties of port or navigation,
paid for the benefit of the State, if the motives which led to their seeking refuge be real and evident, and if no cargo be discharged or taken
on board, save such as may relate to the subsistence of the crew, or be
necessary for the repair of the vessels, and if they do not stay in port




348           LIFE IN THE SANDWICH  ISLANDS.
beyond the time necessary, keeping in view the cause which led to their
seeking refuge.
ARTICLE 14.-The contracting parties mutually agree to surrender,
upon official requisition, to the authorities of each, all persons who, being
charged with the crimes of murder, piracy, arson, robbery, forgery, or
the utterance of forged paper, committed within the. jurisdiction of
either, shall be found within the territories of the other; provided that
this shall only be done upon such evidence of criminality as, according to
the laws of the place where the person so charged shall be found, would
justify his apprehension and commitment for trial if the crime had there
been committed; and the respective judges and other magistrates of
the two governments shall have authority, upon complaint made under
oath, to issue a warrant for the apprehension of the person so charged,
that he may be brought before such judges or other magistrates respectively, to the end that the evidence of criminality may be heard and
considered; and if on such hearing the evidence be deemed sufficient to
sustain the charge, it shall be the duty of the examining judge or magistrate to certify the same to the proper executive authority, that a
warrant may issue for the surrender of such fugitive. The expense of
such apprehension and delivery shall be borne and defrayed l-y the party
who makes the requisition and receives the fugitive.
ARTICLE 15.-So soon as steam or other mail packets under the flag
of either of the contracting parties shall have commenced running
between their respective ports of entry, the contracting parties agree
to receive at the post-offices of those ports all mailable matter, and to
forward it as directed, the destination being to some regular post-office
of either country; charging thereupon the regular postal rates as established by law in the territories of either party receiving said mailable
matter, in addition to the original postage of the office whence the mail
was sent. Mails for the United States shall be made up at regular
intervals at the Hawaiian post-office, and dispatched to ports of the
United States, the postmasters. at which ports shall open the same, and
forward the inclosed matter as directed, crediting the Hawaiian Government with their postages as established by law and stamped upon each
manuscript or printed sheet.
All mailable matter destined for the Hawaiian Islands shall be received at the several post-offices in the United States, and forwarded
to San Francisco or other ports on the Pacific coast of the United States,
whence the postmasters shall dispatch it by the regular mail-packets to
Honolulu, the Hawaiian Government agreeing on their part to receive
and collect for, and credit the post-office department of the United
States with, the United States rates charged thereupon. It shall be
optional to prepay postage on letters in either country, but postage on
printed sheets and newspapers shall in all cases be prepaid. The
respective post-office departments of the contracting parties shall, in




THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                  349
their accounts, which are to be adjusted annually, be credited with all
dead letters returned.
ARTICLE 16.-The present treaty shall be in force from the date of
the exchange of the ratifications for the term of ten years, and further,
until the end of twelve months after either of the contracting parties
shall have given notice to the other of its intention to terminate the
same, each of the said contracting parties reserving to itself the right of
giving such notice at the end of the said term of ten years, or at any
subsequent term.
Any citizen or subject of either party infringing the articles of this
treaty shall be held responsible for the same, and the harmony and good
correspondence between the two governments shall not be interrupted
thereby, each party engaging in no way to protect the offender or sanction such violation.
ARTICLE 17.-The present treaty shall be ratified by the President
of the United States of America, by and with the advice and consent of
the Senate of the said States, and by His Majesty the King of the Hawaiian Islands, by and with the advice of his Privy Council of State,
and the ratifications shall be exchanged at Honolulu within eighteen
months from the date of its signature, or sooner if possible.
In witness whereof, the respective plenipotentiaries have signed the
same in triplicate, and have thereto affixed their seals. Done at Washington, in the English language, the twentieth day of December, in the
year one thousand eight hundred and forty-nine.
JOHN M. CLAYTON,
JAMES JACKSON JARVES.
And whereas we have carefully examined all the points and articles
thereof, by and with the advice of our Privy Council of State, we have
confirmed and ratified the foregoing treaty, and we do confirm and ratify
the same in the most effectual manner, promising on our faith and word
as King, for us and our successors, to fulfil and observe it faithfully and
scrupulously in all its clauses.
In faith of which we have signed this ratification with our own hand,
and have affixed thereto the great seal of our kingdom.
Given at our palace of Honolulu, this nineteenth day of August, in
the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and fifty, and in the
twenty-fifth of our reign.
KAMEHAMEHA.
KEONI ANA.
By the King and the Premier.
R. 0. WYLLIE,
Minister of Foreign Relations.




350           LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
EXCHANGE OF RATIFICATIONS.
We the undersigned, Robert Crichton Wyllie, Minister of Foreign
Relations of his Majesty the King of the Hawaiian Islands, and Charles
Bunker, Consul of the United States for Lahaina, having been authorized
by our respective governments to exchange the ratifications of the
treaty of friendship, commerce, and navigation between his Hawaiian
Majesty and the United States, concluded and signed at Washington,
on the twentieth day of December, one thousand eight hundred and
forty-nine, certify,
That we have this day met for that purpose, and after comparing the
said ratifications each with the other, and both with the original of said
treaty, have effected the exchange accordingly.
In witness whereof, we have signed this certificate, at Honolulu, this
twenty-fourth day of August, one thousand eight hundred and fifty, and
have thereunto affixed our respective seals.
R. C. WYLLIE,
CHARLES BUNKER.
NOTE A, p. 196.
THE late researches of Professor Agassiz into the world of corals naturally suggest the inquiry whether the coral insect may not yet be
employed by man for the construction of sea-walls and reefs, in places
within or near the tropics, where they are needed. He has succeeded
in obtaining living specimens of the coral zoophyte, and carefully preserving them  so as to study at his leisure their habits and motions.
Why, then, as we employ the silkworm and furnish it with food and
material to spin for us our silks, and as we plant and form beds of oysters
in favorable locations, where we please, why may we not also employ
the agency of the coral lithophyte to lay the foundations, for instance,
of a light-house, or to form a breakwater where one is needed? Such
a practical result is by no means improbable from the minute and
scientific observations now making upon the busy little builders of the
deep.
The coral reefs of Florida have been carefully examined by Professor
Agassiz, and he finds them to be barrier reefs, extending from the Tortugas to the mainland, conforming generally to the outline of the shore.
Lagoon or circular reefs also occur, but there is no evidence there of the
subsidence or elevation observed in the Pacific Ocean; these are only
12 or 13 feet above the level of the sea. The Florida reefs consist of
the Astrea and Porites at the bottom, in a depth of from 60 to 100 feet.
They are large hemispherical masses, some of them 12 feet in diameter,
and containing 4,000,000 of individual polyps. Next succeeds the Me



THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                   351
andrina, which is also hemispherical in form, and sometimes 13 feet in
diameter. At the top is found the Madrepore, of much harder texture
than the preceding. It can exist only where the water is in constant
motion, and thoroughly commingled with air-i. e. in a breaker or surfthey die in quiet waters.
Throughout the whole extent of the Florida reef, openings occur, and
produce islands called Keys, from one to fifteen miles long, and covered
with a tropical vegetation. The reefs suffer abrasion by the action of the
sea, and are broken up on a large scale by the perforations of shell-fish and
marine worms. The coral sand which results from the attrition of the
reefs is cemented by the carbonate of lime dissolved in the water, and
a firm limestone is formed exhibiting indications of stratification, but
little or no trace of original organic structure. Professor Agassiz has
formerly spent much time in the careful study of the remarkable geological formation of the Oolitic-Jura limestone. He found that the resemblances presented by these Florida reefs were so strong that he
could not doubt that the Jura limestone had such an origin. The southern
portion of the peninsula consists of ancient reefs, (hummocks,) and intervening levels, low and marshy, (everglades,) the whole having been won
from the ocean by the coral polyps.
These reefs are regarded with terror by the navigators, but behind
them lie the wreckers, in quiet waters, while the storm rages without.
With light-houses and appropriate beacons the openings through the
reefs might furnish safe harbors. In answer to a question whether this
process of reef-building would continue, obliterating the channel and
joining the West Indies to the mainland, Professor Agassiz gave it as
his conviction that the limit is already attained; that the depth of water
outside the present reefs is such as to prevent any more rising, but the
present reefs may expand somewhat laterally.
The island of Molokai were as well worth the visit of an Agassiz, for
the study of its corals, as of the Christian traveller for its institutions of
religion. We commend it as a field of study both to Agassiz and Guyot,
which they will find equal facilities for investigating, either as annexed
to, or under the protectorate of the United States. The following is
the latest view of it as a missionary field, contained in the August number of the Journal of Missions for 1851.
Seventeen years ago the inhabitants of Molokai, one of the Sandwich
Islands, were living in a state of heathenism, which the officers of the
United States Exploring Expedition represent as one of the most sunken
in which any portion of the human race has ever been found. They had
no civilization or letters; they scarcely had clothing or property of the
lowest kind; they lived in miserable huts, so fashioned that Modesty
could not find entrance to them; but in their deep degradation they
had passions as evil and as strong as any other people.




352          LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
The following year, 1835, their present missionary, Mr. Hitchcock, took
up his abode among them. God has greatly blessed his labors. Through
his instrumentality chiefly, a change has been effected, which it does not
often fall to the lot of man to witness. There are many aspects in which
this change might be exhibited, but none of them more suggestive than
that of the liberality of the church.
For several years they have paid into the treasury of the Board more
than enough to support their pastor. Last year they paid upwards of
$500 to sustain him, contributed $700 at the monthly concert, and nearly
$200 for other objects. From the beginning of the present year to March
20th, less than three months, they have contributed $210 at the monthly
concert, and have subscribed $1800 for the repair of their meeting-house,
besides paying $100 for a son of their pastor, whom they have adopted
as their beneficiary, and intend to educate in this country.
Nor is this all. Owing to the broken surface of the island, valleys
lying here and there between precipitous hills, numerous houses of worship are needed for their convenience. In one of these valleys the inhabitants, not more, all told, than two hundred and fifty in number, are
building a house, which, in addition to their own labor in getting stone,
timber, lime, sand, etc., will cost them not far from $900, cash. And
yet they have contributed more than $50 at the monthly concert the
first three months of the year, have paid their proportion of their pastor's
salary, and have also given for their poor. In another deep and secluded
ravine, with but little more than a hundred inhabitants, they have put,
up a fine house, and introduced American chairs, and are now raising
money for a bell. The house in the plain of Kalaupapa was not well
built, and the inhabitants are raising funds for a new one, having resolved
to appropriate the other for a school-house. Besides all this, the people
are building houses of worship in small neighborhoods, that they may
meet in them for conference and prayer, their dwelling-houses not being
convenient for such purpose. The members of the church, entirely of
their own accord, have already built seven of these within three miles
of the station in either direction, and are now at work on the eighth.
Here is a church the foundations of which were laid only half a generation back, in the midst of heathenism, and in one of its darkest and
most degraded domains. The darkness has fled apace before the light
which the Gospel brings, the degradation will soon be only a matter of
history. This church makes abundant provision for its spiritual wants,
and with a full hand is extending the blessings to others, which it knows
so well how to prize. It is an example to be considered. How many
churches now without a pastor because they feel unable to support one,
or without a house of worship because they think themselves too poor to
build one, would continue unsupplied, if this same spirit prevailed in
them! How soon the means would be furnished for giving the Gospel
to all the world, if every church possessed the same spirit of liberality I




THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                   353
And yet who will pronounce that the course of this church is not such
as will give them the liveliest pleasure in the world to come?
NOTE B, p. 301.
THE remarks of Sir George Simpson, Governor-in-chief of the Hudson's
Bay Company's Territories, in his volume entitled "Overland Journey
of a Voyage Round the World," are not less creditable to himself as a
philanthropist and a close observer of mankind, than they are honorable
to the American Missionaries at the Hawaiian Islands. While he perhaps awards to the natives a higher character than they have generally
been deemed to deserve, he does full justice to the efforts of the missionaries to ameliorate the temporal condition of the lower orders. He
remarks, that " perhaps the industry of the natives is the quality which
promises to be most conducive to their civilization. A habit, if not a
love of labor has been implanted and cherished in them by a combination of causes more or less peculiar to their condition, which chiefly, if
not wholly, resolve themselves into the niggardliness of nature and the
despotism of government. While many other Polynesian tribes almost
realize the caricature of a copper-colored gentleman lying on his back
under the branches of the bread-fruit, and doing nothing but keep his
mouth open to catch the ripe rolls as they fall, the Hawaiians, as we
have already had occasion to notice more than once, are compelled by
the necessities of nature to earn their food by the sweat of their brow.
Witness the construction of their fish-ponds, the preparation of their
poi, and the cultivation of their kalo, with all its incidental toils of digging and embanking the beds, of erecting and maintaining the aqueducts,
of fixing and regulating the sluices.
" So far as the kalo and poi are concerned, there are some localities,
Lahaina, for instance, in Maui, in which the bread-fruit abounds, while,
with a little care and attention, it might be made to grow in all parts of
the group; but whether it be that this ready-made food be here of an
inferior quality, or that the favorite dish of the natives has become indispensable to them, the bread-fruit is as little valued by the Sandwich
Islanders as the kalo, which is indigenous in many parts of Polynesia,
is valued by the indolent aborigines of the more southern groups. Nor
is the despotism of government less influential in making the people
work'than the niggardliness of nature. Till very recently the commoners of this archipelago, like the peasants of France before the revolution,
or of Canada before the conquest, were taillables et corveables a misericorde, or to invent English for the exotic abomination, taxable and taskable at discretion, while they were deterred alike from evasion or complaint by a mixture of feudal servility and superstitious terror.
"But, within the last year or two, certain laws, for their share in




354           LIFE IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
which the missionaries deserve great credit, have so far remedied this
evil as to subject the amounts and times of tasking and taxing to fixed
rules; and though the ascertained burdens are still too heavy and too
numerous, comprising work for the immediate chief, work for the king,
work for the public, rent for land and a poll-tax on both sexes, yet the
restriction in question, if fairly carried into actual effect, will engender
in the serf the idea of property, and inspire him at once with the hope
and the desire of improving his physical condition by the application of
his physical energies.
" Though in many quarters of the group an adequate motive for exertion may not at present be felt, yet in the neighborhood of Honolulu
the sustenance of several thousands, who are exclusively consumers,
constitutes at once the proof and the recompense of the industry of the
adjacent cultivators. In fact, the demand of the town affords an ample
market for the natives of the surrounding country, while there is certainly no reason for the buyers to murmur as to the amount or variety
of the supply. In addition to the resources of a stationary market,
which is usually well furnished with fish, meat, fruit, etc., the smaller
dealers go from house to house to vend their wares, the whole scene,
which is quite unique, savoring of any thing but indolence on the part
of the rural population.
" Early in the morning a crowd of natives may be seen flocking into
Honolulu, all carrying something to sell. Most of them have large calabashes suspended in a netting at each end of a pole, which they carry
across one shoulder, the contents being all sorts of small articles, kalo
and poi, and fruits and vegetables, and milk and eggs, and, what is the
safest speculation of all, water fresh from the cold atmosphere of the
mountains; some of them are loaded with bundles of grass for the townfed horses; others carry a sucking pig in their arms, while the more
substantial hog-merchants make the adult grunters, always there, as
well as elsewhere, on the verge of insurrection, trudge along on their
own petty toes; others again import ducks and fowls, and geese and
turkeys, all alive, tied by the legs to long poles, which are carried like
the poles with the calabashes; while last, though not least, a few individuals of more airy and delicate sentiments hawk about various kinds
of curiosities, such as mats, shells, scorpions, etc., but above all, wreaths
of bright flowers intertwined with their kindred leaves for the beaux
and belles of the metropolis."
Evidence of the utility of the Sandwich Island mission, and of the
vast benefit effected by it to the Hawaiian people, is constantly accruing from every quarter. A late number of the Journal of Missions presents the following: " A short time since, Mr. Coan's church at Hilo, by
a contribution of $100, made his Excellency R. C. Wyllie, Minister of
Foreign Relations at Honolulu, an honorary member of the American
Board.




THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC.                   355
"In a note to Mr. Castle, acknowledging the reception of the certificate
of membership, he says,' Wishing as well as I do, and have ever done,
to that benevolent Board, I ought to have become a member long ago.'
As he was anticipated in this, he immediately, by the payment of $100,
constituted Mrs. Lee, wife of the Chief-justice of the Islands, a member.
In addition to this substantial testimony to the good effected by missions, he says, in a letter to the treasurer of the Board, whom he knew
many years ago in Chili-' I consider that the diffusion of knowledge
and Christianity throughout the Hawaiian Islands is at once the proudest achievement of any Foreign Missionary Society, and the greatest
benefit that has been conferred on these Islands the last thirty-one years.'
" Few men are better qualified to give an opinion on this subject than
Mr. Wyllie. He is a Scotchman by birth, has seen much of the world,
is a man of close observation and of large intelligence, and has resided
for a long time at the Islands, where, for several years, he has, with
distinguished credit to himself, and great advantage to the nation, filled
his present highly responsible office. While yet a private resident there,
an extended series of articles from his pen, on the Sandwich Islands,
their productions, capabilities, etc., gave proof of an intimate knowledge
of all that pertained to this group, and a just appreciation of their future
importance."
TiE END.