A. TEIP
TO
~ivriti~jh ~ornnrali
AND TO
SAN PEDRO,
REPUBLIC - OF'HO NDURntS.
BY  CI-IAILLES SWETT,
OF WARfEN COUNTY, Miss.
kPIlIO~E  OINE  DOLI-Ai=NEW ORLEANS,
PRICE CURRENT PRINT, 1 29 & 131 Gravier St.
1868.








PREFACE.
As we have stated in'; Prefatory Remarks " that we were
opposed to emigration to Honduras, it may be necessary for us
to sa-y that we have, in the following account, given a description of what we saw, faithfully, and as far as possible without
prejudice.
It was our intention to publish "Prefatory Remarks" at thle
time the article was written, (October 7, 1867,) but we reserved it
for publication in connection with what we should see in Honduras, which is done without altering a word, or the erasure of a
single line.
VWarren Co., Miss.,                    CHARLES SW1IPTr
April, 156S.








Prefatorvy Remarks.
Several friends and relatives entertaining the idea of visitingBelize, (British Honduras), communicated their intentions to me
and expressed a wish that I should accompany them, which I
could not consent to do; but promised to think of the matter
and to give them an answer before their departure, feeling satisfied they had not fully determined to go; but being assured that
they would go I at last consented to accompany them, provided
nothing should occur to prevent. If they go, it is for the purpose of endeavoring to convince themselves that it is a better
country than this, and for the purpose of establishing themselves
there if they find the country such as they believe it to be. If I
go, it will be for the purpose of gratifying those who desire my
company, and with no fixed determination to make it my home,
but on the contrary, with every feeling of opposition to that portion of the earth's surface.  We at present know but little of
Belize, and even I may find sufficient inducement to go to that
country; but at present, if asked whether I think it would be better to make the change, would answer with a decided negative.
We have every reason to believe that country to be covered
with jungle and lagoons, from  which, the exhalation of phosphuretted and Carburetted hydrogen gas, consequent upon the
decomposition of animal and vegetable matter, must be so great
as almost to prevent the possibility of strangers escaping its
influence, and suffering from a malaria that will produce remittent, intermittent and pernicious fevers. This it is reasonable to
expect; and how many of those who must necessarily under



4                 A TRIP TO IONDUUAS.
go this acclimation will ever enjoy in future the health which
was theirs in our own country?
The latitude is further south and nearer the equator, and it is
a well authenticated fact that it is more desirable in a Hygienic
point of view to remove from  a warm  to a cold climate, in a
majority of instances, than from a northern to a latitude nearer
the equator.
Here most of us are acclimated,'and if taken sick we have
physicians who are acquainted with the diseases of our section,
and our peculiar idiosynceracies, and consequently there would
be a better chance of our recovery than would be the case in
another latitude, however skillful the treatment of our case
might be, if unaccompanied by the circumstances above named.
Here we have friends who will rejoice with us in our prosperity,
and who will sympathize with us in our misfortunes, which we
can not expect in a strange land.  In a word, this is home; a
land that is ours; doubly ours; having been bequeathed to us
by our forefathers, who sacrificed their lives in the war of the
revolution, and by those who so recently died in the vain attempt
to place our section in a position of independence.  Should this
country not be dearer than ever to us because of these reflections?
Should we not remain here and keep forever green the graves of
departed heroes, or should we desert a land that has been bought
at such a price, and forget the suffering and privation of those
who are now beyond reach of our sympathy, and whom no word
of encouragement can reach, but whose memories we should
cherish, and whose deeds we should keep forever fresh in our memories? Should we forget the midnight bivouac and scanty meal,
with the cold wet ground for our bed and the canopy of heaven
our only covering? the long and tiresome marches, through rain,
snow and ice, with:naked feet and ragged clothing? Should-we




PREFATORY REMARKS.                   5
banish the recollection of all this from our minds, and leave blank
the place now occupied by such hallowed memories? No, let us
deliberate well before we leave our homes. It is a serious matter
at any time, and particularly so at the present. It is a step that
should not be taken without the most careful and exhaustive consideration, and until we are satisfied the change will be greatly to
our advantage. Immediately after the close of the war, a distinguished confederate general, in a letter to myself, stated it to be
his determination to go to Mexico should it be necessary for him
to leave here, yet at the same time stated it to be his determination to remain here as long as he could, and said he would advise all to do so as long as it could be'done with honor tand
safety.
At the time of receiving this letter I contemplated going to
Mexico, but the whole current of my thoughts was changed,
and I almost came to the positive cenclusion to remain here as
lon(g as it could be done with " honor and safety."  Since then,
events have rapidly transpired which have been of a character
to almost justify a determination to change, yet such was not
my feeling at the time the contemplated trip was made known
to me, nor is it at present; though, under a certain condition of
things, any land might possibly be better than our own, which
condition has not yet arrived, and I sincerely hope it may never
be our misfortune to witness. Since the late war, thousands
have left this country with the view to bettering their condition,
and many more contemplate leaving, notwithstanding the fact
that few, if any, of all who made the change have been able
to render such an account of their new homes as to induce their
friends to follow. Many have gone, and more will go without
giving the subject the consideration it demands, but make the
leap in the dark, and without calculating the result if they fail to




6                  A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
leap the chasm, and should reach the bottom of an unfathomable
abyss of future misery, want and suffering. We have'from time
to time been visited by so called agents of foreign and more
favored lands (?) who, in too many instances care very little what
ultimately becomes of their dupes so long as their own coffers are
filled, and who have studied the most attractive means to remove
any objection to the section they pretend to represent that may
be raised by those who are opposed to emigrating. They represent to the lazy and indolent that, by emigrating to their chosen
spot they will find a country so favored by nature, and in which
the spontaneous productions of the soil are so varied and bountiful, as to preclude the necessity of labor, and to the more
grasping and avaricious they represent that a fortune is in store
for them, and when acquired they will be enabled to successfully
establish themselves where they please. These two classes of
persons are of little, if any, use anywhere, and can be very well
spared from  our own " Sunny South"; but there is another
class that is being induced to leave us, who will, if they remain, contribute largely by their energy and industry in doing
all that can be done towards re-establishing us in a condition of
independence, and to a great extent recuperate our now shattered fortunes. It is this latter portion of our people that we
desire should remain, and not be led astray by the " wolf in
sheep's clothing."  It cannot be questioned that at this time the
whole country is in a condition of greater pecuniary prostration than we have ever before realized, and that our section
seems to have reached so low a point as almost to have passed
the limit that will justify the hope of recuperation; yet we are
satisfied "when things' get to their worst they generally improve," and in this reflection there is room for a little hope, if
not for great buoyancy of spirits. It is to be regretted that




PREFATORY REMARKS.
the time of improvement in our circumstances is in the dim and
distant future; so far, indeed, that we are unable to penetrate
the gloom  by which we are surrounded, and through which
there is scarcely a gleam of light to direct us on our way. The
work  of a people in  recuperating  their condition  after
such losses as we have sustained, in a financial point of view
only, must necessarily be slow, and require time for its consummation; but with us it can safely be said there is no foundation
on which to build, or at least it is of such a character as to
prevent our rearing a superstructure that will promise durability and satisfaction. We are deprived of our former labor
system, that enabled us to increase our wordly possessions and
enrich the North, and are now  compelled to depend upon a
system of labor that prevents the possibility of our raising our
great staple productions at a price that will prove remunerating. Our cotton, that at one time enabled us to contribute so much towards defraying the expenses of the Government, can do so no longer, and those who have been engaged in
its cultivation since the war, must discontinue it, as loss has
attended nearly every effort to produce it by our own people
who were acquainted with the plant, and a like want of success has attended the trials made by those who have come from
other sections, and who knew but little of its cultivation, and
whose capital was the, only advantage they possessed over us.
Again, it is well known that Europe no longer looks to this
country for its supply of cotton, and that we have lost control
of the cotton markets of the world, which was not the case
before the war. We are without capital, and very few are willing to invest their means in our section during the present disturbed condition of our affairs.
The destruction of our great planting interests has reduced




8                  A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
us to a consuming, instead of being, as formerly, a producing
people, and we cannot expect for a long time to come that we
will occupy any other position. The history of the world produces sufficient evidence by the experience of all who have gone
before us, that a people to be prosperous must have the balance
Qf trade in their favor, or -at least there should not be such a
difference as at present exists between ourselves and the rest of
-the world. If we cannot raise the staples it was formerly our.custom to produce in such quantity, and at such price as to
enable us to govern the markets that required them for consumption, it may be well to ask what we can raise. There can
be no doubt of our ability to produce all, or-nearly all we may
-require to subsist upon, but what can we raise for export, and
thereby prevent the excessive balance of trade being against us
-that we know: to have been the case during the past three
years?  The question is more easily asked than answered. The
successful cultivation of the soil will insure prosperity in every
business and pursuit, and a failure will produce a corresponding
or proportionate depression in every occupation the human
family is engaged in. Althoigh-we have awclimate as genial as
any on earth, and a soil as rich, we must come to the unfortunate conclusion that our agricultural pursuits must languish
for a time, and during that time we must remain a consuming
people, and consequently be poorer to-day than we were yesterday. For every evil there is a remedy, if we only knew how
and when to apply it, and all who read these pages are as
capable of applying it as myself, and it:is hoped, more so******
These thoughts are suggested by the fact of our having been
almost entirely engaged in planting,. and but comparatively
little in manufacturing, and show plainly how poor we have become as a people. This condition causes many to look about




PREFATORY IREMARKS.                   9
them to endeavor to fix upon some spot where they may have a
more favorable prospect of making a living than at present seems
to be the case here. The primary cause of the dissatisfaction
of our people, and the cause of every evil we are now subjected
to is, the political atmosphere of the country, and no apparent
prospect of its changing for the better at an early day. We
are politically nothing-taxed beyond precedent-denied representation-almost deprived of the ability to pay taxes, and
without a voice in the formation of those laws by which we
are to be governed-the party in  power striving by every
means in its power to place an inferior race in a position of
political importance, and to even elevate to social equality a
people it was undoubtedly the intention of our Creator should
occupy a position below us, and be under our direction as certainly as it was His intention that the superior should control
the inferior. This is a gloomy array of evils, and should it not
rather cause us to buckle on our armor and to make a powerful
effort to keep this country under the control of white men?
There are thousands of our friends who must permanently
abide here, come weal or come woe; and should we not feel it
incumbent upon us to remain and engage in that political contest for supremacy which must eome sooner or later, and prehaps
at an early day? a struggle that will be more fiercely contested
than any we have gone through when the sullen boom  of artillery, the rattle of musketry, and the dying groans of our friends
and relatives were heard-a contest fraught with more momentous issues than it has ever been the duty of a nation before to engage in, as it will settle the question whether we are to be slaves
or freemen-whether we are to be governed by intelligence, or by
an ignorant population, whose principal idea of liberty seems to
be that it consists in the removal of every restraint, the absence




1-0                A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
of all law. Let us make a determined effort to save the old ship
that has weathered so many storms, and is now in the breakers,
aud in danger of being dashed in pieces, and not say we care not
who is at the helm, or how fiercely the storm  rages. If, after
using every means at our command, the vessel is wrecked, we
may then seize a plank and trust to the Giver of all Good to
waft us to a harbor of safety.
What have we yet done to check the current that seems
hurrying us to destruction? Nothing, simply nothing; and the
idea that we are too weak, is too feeble an argument for men to
use who have undergone what we have from 1861 to the present
time. What we have done since the close of the war has encouraged the radical party to make greater demands than they
would have thought of making, but for our concessions from
time to time.
We have taken counsel from our fears, and have done too much
through policy, a fruit that has a most inviting exterior. but
within is bitter indeed. Let us in future claim all we feel we are
entitled to, and contend for it with all our power; again I say
let us do our duty, and if we are overtaken and overpowered, let
every true and honored southron  be prepared to  exclaim,
"Shake not thy gory locks at me; thou can'st not say I did it,"
and let him gather.together the fragments he may have saved
from the wreck, leave the home of his childhood, the graves of his
kindred, and seek some land where he may have the satisfaction
of rearing his children in the midst of those who have feelings in
common with them, and with whom they may associate on terms,
of equality. We have sacrificed nearly our entire property in
-the vain endeavor to better our condition; and let us show to
the world our willingness to make other and greater sacrifices,.
but not to the end that radicalism  shall rule this land-the




PREFATORY REMARLS.                  11
fairest of earth, and surrender to those who are in every way unfitted to occupy it, the heritage of our fathers.
No, rather than this should be, better, far better that this
land should sink, and that waves of ocean should roll over what
was once a happy and a prosperous country-that the map of
the world should show no spot once occupied by our territoryour names be a myth-our requiem be the howling winds and
the roaring waves, and our dirge the scream [of the gull in his
passage over our ruined homes and unknown graves.  Better'
far better that all save honor and the immortal soul should be
lost, than that party whose motto seems to be equality, in every
sense in which it can be used, should'prevail.  We can accomplish something, and let us do what we can; and if we fail, we
will have the proud consolation of knowing we made every effort
to keep our country in the enviable position it has hitherto occupied among the nations of the earth. If despite our exertions to
the contrary, our country should be brought to the humiliating fact
of equality of races existing among us-when an inferior holds
public position, and even serve in the capacity of representatives
of the people, or when we are satisfied this will be the result of
what is now transpiring, it will be well to surrender this land to
our persecutors, and time will make known whether they have
acted well or wisely. Let each and every one do what seemeth
unto him best, keeping in view  the fact that there is still
a duty for all to perform, and which should be accomplished, if
possible, regardless of what the consequences may be. We have
work to do not for ourselves only, but for generations yet unborn,
aud who will hardly think of us with veneration if we fail to
exert ourselves in this crisis in a manner commensurate with the
importance of the questions involved. It may be too late to accomplish good, but it can never be too late to make the attempt,




12                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
Under certain circumstances it will be seen I favor emigration
and this may be the most favorable time for such a movement'
At all events, I shall, on my return from Belize, publish all the
information gathered in that country, and if it serves as a guide
to even one in the formation of an opinion as to what is best to
be done, some little good may be accomplished.
It is my intention to get information fiom the most reliable
sources, and to describe as nearly as possible what is seen, and as
the trip is not for purposes of speculation, I hope to be able to
give a correct, though condensed account of that distant land in
every particular that promises to be of profit to those who con-:template making it their future residence. *  * * * * *
This is the land of my birth and lwhere I had hoped to
be able to live in the peaceful enjoyment of my own. It has
been my desire here to be buried, and that my ashes might,
mingle with thOSe of my kindred, but it may be otherwise
ordained, and be my lot to repose in a land far distant from the
scenes of my childhood; and if so, I will cast the anchor of hope
in such waters as my destiny may waft me to, ever trusting in
-Iim who'- doeth all things well," to carry me safely through my
earthly pilgrimage and finally to a haven of eternal rest.
Warren Co., Mliss., Octobar 7th, 1867.




:ID I.A. R Y.
I)ECEMBER 26tb.-0ur party, according to agreement, left
"Old Warren " this morning by rail for Belize, via New Orleans,
though two of our number remain behind and will follow by the
next steamer, if we do not give such a representation on our
arrival at our point of destination, as to make it unnecessary for
them to come, as we can write by return of steamer, being informed she lies at Belize several days. We reached New Orleans
in safety, at 8 A. M., and are now located at the St. Charles.
Never before have I had such feelings as possess me at this time
I know not how to express them. It is certainly nothing new
for me to be absent from home, the late war having necessitated
that from its beginning to its end, with the exception of a few
days; but this trip oppresses me with feelings of sadness.  What
am I about to do? To leave my native land, it is hoped, for a
short time, but to engage in a tour of observation for the benefit,
I trust, of many, but not with the desire or intention to influence
any. Not having inaugurated t;his expedition, as stated in my
prefatory remarks, and representing others, it is my earnest wish
to give a clear and unvarnished statement of all I see, and all
that is heard from reliable sources, ever preferring an occular
demonstration, when possible, to representations of any one, not
because of a want of confidence in my fellow man, or fear of
being deceived, feeling satisfied that' such letters as we carry
will place us properly before the officials, but because such information can not fail to be of a more gratifying character to
those who desire facts. intermingled with no portion of fiction.
2




14                 A TRIP TO IIONDURAS.
In the morning our party will proceed to get together such
articles as we may need for the trip, not trusting to our getting
anything at Belize.
DECEMIBER 27th.-To-day was spent in completing our outfit,
and in obtaining letters, in which latter undertaking we were
very much assisted by General B., who secured for us an introduction to the British Consul, and a letter from him direct to his
Excellency the Governor of Honduras.
DECE)MBER 28th.-Not havingo quite completed our arrangements on yesterday, we are makliug a finish to-day, and must be
on shipboard by 5 P. M., according to advertisement, though
dhere is no absolute necessity for hurry on that account, as they
are known not to be quite as punctual as the sun.  Our purchases being completed, and on board at 4 o'clock, we left the
hotel for the steamer Trade-Wind, expecting to be in the gulf
before morning.. The vessel was ready to sail by 7 o'clock, but.a dense fog rising, we lay at the pier all night, much to our disappointment, as we are anxious to get forward as rapidly as possible, but we must accept the situation as additional evidence of
the fallibility of human calculation, which we can safely do without fear of being opposed by this cloud of vapor for any length
of time.  WVould we could say as' much of that cloud which
obscures in its sable folds our political horizon, and now seems
threatening to veil the star of hope with its funereal pall  the
frst produces not a disagreeable sensation of chilliness, but the
latter penetrating the inmost recesses of the heart and  causing a
degree of cold that cannot be removed by any ordinary means.
DECEMIBER 29th. —This morning we find ourselves still at the
pier, but not without hope of being able to get off in an hour or
two. The fog disappearing at 7. 45 A. Mi., we left our moorings
and may now consider ourselves on our way.  This being Sun



DIARY.                        15
day, we had Divine Service; the Rev. Mr. Morrill, of Texas,.
preaching, who, although over sixty years of age, is on his way to)
a new country, and though in feeble health, does not fear to,
brave any hardship he may have to encounter, or any privation
hemay be called upon to suffer. In the evening we had a discourse from the Rev. Mr. Pearce, of Mississippi, who is on board
with his family, and goes for the purpose of locating, though he
has never seen the country.  His faith and determination cannot but be admired, though I confess that it would require more
than the writer ever had or ever expects to possess, to induce a
move of the same kind. It is perhaps best that the Pioneer should
sever every connection with his former home, and then, if dissatisfied with a new country at first, he will remain and eventually
become reconciled to those customs and things that at first made
an unfavorable impression, and might have in-duced a departure
from a land that promised less than was expected.  To-day has
been gloonmy, with rain, which increased as the day advanced,
and as we come to anchor, just inside the bar, there is every appearance of a storm. Here we must lay till morning; it being
impossible to go over the bar to-night.
Our careful commander informs us it is possible we may have
to remain at our anchorage for several hours in the morning.
DECEMaER 30th. —This morning it is cloudy, cool and windy,.
and our captain has determined to remain till the middle of the
day, if the weather does not sooner improve; he represents
the outside to be pretty rough, with the wind in its present direction.  There are many on board who would prefer smooth
water, and though they were anxious to leave the Crescent City,
and have shown some impaltience at each delay, are now  willing
to abide by the decision of one who has the reputation of being
an excellent seaman; all fearing sea-sickness, which is anything




16                  A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
but agreeable, those who have experienced its effects state
that when under its influence, is the best possible time for a man
to take his departure to tthe land of spirits, and a person suffering
from it will not unfrequently request to be rolled overboard,
with the view of trying the water-cure.  We trust our knowledge of it may be confined to what we have heard, not feeling
anxious to verify those statements.   By the way, we have been
told by the initiated, it is not a bad plan to take a little spirits
to prevent nausea.  Not having tried it, can say nothing of its
efficacy, but we can all add our testimony to the fact that the
prescription is not a bad one, and having a supply of the medicine with us, it is not improbable we may try it.  We have also
been informed that champagne is very good for the same purpose, but as our finances are not in as healthy a condition as in
former days, as "Bill Arp" said, when asked what state he lived
in, "' The less we say about that the better."
At 11 o'clock, the wind having died away, and our pilot being
on board, we weighed anchor and again pursued our way to
the South-West pass, through which we make our entrance to
the Gulf. We found a heavy sea outside, which soon caused
sea-sickness with most of those who were for the first time being
tossed upon the "briny deep."  The writer was one of the first
to succumb, notwithstanding the remedy above spoken of, and
the most powerful exercise of the will in connection. There was
no wish fbr the table during that day or the next, or the next,
and the dinner bell was even resorted to with no effect.  It is
perhaps well enough to state here, that those who contemplate making a sea voyage for the first time should be thoroughly impressed with the fact that they are about to leave
home, and home comforts, and shou'd prepare themselves in every
way possible to meet the exigencies that may arise, and not




DIARY.                         17
trust to obtaining them on shipboard, as those who have control
of vessels are acted upon by thle samie influences that control
persons in other situations in life, and feel that to provide for
themselves is the first step, and, perhaps, with too many the last
that should be taken. Let all be provided with such simple
medicines as they are in the habit of using at home, with lemons,
or sugar of lemon, which is very convenient, spoons, mugs,
crushed sugar, ale of porter, and a small quantity of such liquors
and wvine as they may prefer; feeling satisfied that by suchl
means much suffering' will be prevented-: atnd even should the
articles not be used and it should be necessary to throw them
awavT the loss can not be great.  Five gallons of water and, if
possible, some ice, would not be out of place in a voyage firom
New OrI1eans to Belize.
DECEMBER 31st.-The weather is cloudy, and with a good
breeze and steam, we are making very good headway, and we
earnestly hope to make a quick trip.  Veryfew persons are able
to be about, nearly all being(r confined to their berths.  We have
over one hundred passengers on board, with quite a number of
ladies and children among them, and when mother and child
are both sick, the poor little one sadly feels the loss of the
parent's seothing influences.
JANUARY 1.-We are still tossed upon the waves and very
few are in condition to eat a New Year's dinner, if within
reach, but nothing is heard of any such preparation.  For a
time, though we are to be separated from our homes, and to be
surrounded by a waste of waters, which we may not inappropriately consider emblematic of the present condition of our unfortunate and oppressed South, which seems separate from the
world, and to occupy no political position, and which is lashed




e18                A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
by angry political waters which threaten the destruction of the
old Ship of State, we are united in our determination to carve
out for our friends and selves some plan by which we may have
a voice in the "laws by which we are governed," though of course
we cannot expect to act in that direction any further than to give
evidence of what will promote our welfare, and trust to the kindness of those in whose midst we may be, to feel and to exercise
sufficient charity towards us, to cause them, in some measure, to
provide for our political wants.
JANUARY 2. -We find in our little vessel many gentlemen
from Louisiana, Arkansas, Mississippi and from other Southern,States, who, before the war were in affluent circumstances, and.consequently removed from  the necessity of performing any
hind of manual labor, now  express their willingness to do,
as  far as they are able, whatever may be necessary to enable them  to make a support for themselves and families.
We have a most excellent list of passengers, and have been very
fortunate in forming a party for exploration, consisting of some,of the best men it has ever been our fortune to meet with.'All
seem firmly impressed with the necessity for a change, and the
determination they evince, and the willingness they express to
combat any hardship they may have to encounter, and to overcome all obstacles that may be presented, is a pretty good evidence that success is likely to attend their effobrts, or *at least
affords us reasonable hope that such will be the final result.
JANUARY 3.-The weather still continues somewhat cloudy,
which is fortunate for us, as the temperature is lower in consequence, though we  have  at no  time since  leaving New
Orleans found it as high as in that city. Indeed, though we
are approaching the equator, the remarkable fact has impressed




DIARY.                         19
all, that the heat is less oppressive from day to day. Tomorrow we should be at Belize, but the prospect now is that we
will not reach our destination -before the next day. Patience is
a virtue, but all are extremely anxious to get where more freedom of locomotion may be enjoyed.
JANUARY 4.-To-day the hitherto unbroken and monotonous
blank has been broken by the appearance of land, and all are
cheered by the sight, and now feel satisfied this is the last day
of our voyage, which has already extended to a greater length
than any of us could have wished. Before leaving our homes,
we were informed the trip would occupy four days; by the
time we reach New Orleans, five days, which by the time we
reached the mouth of the river had extended to six, and our unfortunate experience is that seven are required; at least such
has been the time on our passage, we having cast anchor this
evening, at about 6 o'clock, off the town of Belize, British
Honduras, and step number one may now fairly be considered
terminated.
Before leaving the scene I feel it to be my duty to speak in
terms of praise  of our purser, C-ol. Harney, who is an exconfederate, and a whole-sonled,  liberal gentlenman;  4[nd of'
Mr. Scoville, chief' enlgiiner ofl the boat, through whose l;iiilness we were supplied with one of the best rooms on the vessel,
he having with a spirit of liberality and self denial rarely witnessed in these days of selfishness, resigned to our use his own
room, thereby subjecting himself to inconvenience, but we sincerely hope, not to discomfort. May he never feel the want of a
friend, and may his pilgrimage through life be, attended with as
few obstructions as fall to the lot of man. We will ever hold
him in grateful remembrance. We are all anxious to get ashore
to-night, but having made earnest efforts to do so, and failing,




20                  A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
must rest content till morning.-  One thing is consoling, however, we are in smooth water, compared with what we have
passed over, and the vessel being still, have the prospect of a
good nig hts's rest, which will be worth something to us, and indeed is much needed by all.
JANUARY 5. —Ve succeeeded in getting ashore this morningc
by 9 o'clock, and finding no hotel for our accommodation, fortunately made arrangements with Mr. Mahler, an old resident
-of the place, to provide for our wants, which he did during our
stay here, in good style; taking the house formerly occupied
for the same purpose by Mr. Ware.  From this location we'have a beautiful view of the Bay, and have nothing in front to
-obstruct the breeze, which is truly delightful.
JANUARY 6 —To-day we have an opportunity of looking,around us, and must say our impressions of Belize, from report,
hlave been very different from the reality.
We find a very well built town of about 7000 inhabitants,
and doing a very considerable business.  T'he houses are mostly
one story, but we will give hereafter a full description of the
place and its surroundings.  We to-day formed a party for purposes of exploration, consisting of the following gentlemen, who
were passengers' on the Trade Wind:
1Rev. Levi Pearce..........of Sharon, Mississippi.
Col. J. F. Harrison........ of Tensas, Louisiana.
i)anl. Swett.............. of.Vicksburg, Miss.
Dr. G. P, Frierson.........of DeSoto, Louisiana.
Dr. G. A. Frierson..........    "         "
Dr. R. F. Gray...........of Opelousas,
Capt. W. Buckner........ of Tensas,
J. S. Peak............. of (hicot, Arkansas.
E. V. Frierson.of DeSoto, Louisiana.




DIARY.                        21
T. C. Frierson........... 
T. F. Owen..............of Catahoula,'
Thos. P. Kane.......... of Jackson, "
T. P. Morris............. of Batesville, Arkansas.
Chas. Swett.......        of Warren Co., Miss.
and last, though not al unimportant personage, Wim. Owens, an
"American citizen of African descent," who accompanies Col. IH.
to serve him in the capacity of cook, being an old servant of
the Colonel. We to-day visited Mr. Jas. M. Putnam, formerly
of the U. S., and who is at present acting as agent for the firm
of Messrs. Young, Toledo & Co., of Belize, in the sale of their
lands, and through his kindness received an introduction to
M:lessrs. McDonald and Harrison, who are in charge of the
business of the firml- at this place. Our iuterview was' very
pleasant, and we found these gentlemen ready to grant every
facility in their power to enable us to carry to a successful issue,
the objects of our mission. We were also introduced by Mr. P.
to Mr. Mathe, with whom we spent a very pleasant hour in the
evening, and obtained from him some very interesting facts connected with his experience as a sugar planter, which we regret
to say has thus far not proved very profitable.
JANIUARY  tlth.-Having letters to (Gov. Longdon, we called
upon his excellency to-day, being accompanied by Mr. P., and
were very kindly received. While we were i.ot discouraged by
the interview, we can say that Gov. Longdon did not at once
accept as fact the many reports concerning the great agricultural and planting properties of the Colony, but gave us every
reason to believe that what could be done by the government,
in conformity with its laws, to promote the wlfrare of emigrants,
would be done, but at the same time would offer no extraordinary inducements to emigrants.  Some of our party believing




22                  A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
that they could become British Subjects, in its most extended
sense, were informed by his excellency, that after they had selected the country as their place of residence, should they make
application for letters of naturalization, they would be granted,
but they would only entitle the recipient to colonial protection,
while in the colony, and not to the protection of the British Government when removed beyond the limits of the Colony.  Sonme
were:-miuch disappointed at this, as they had hoped by becoming
citizens they would secure to themselves the guardian care of
certainly the best government on earth, wherever they might
be, so long as they claimed their home in British  Honduras.
JANUARY 8th.-Being busy to-day in completing our preparations to explore the bush, we again called in requisition
the aid of our friend, Mr. Putnam, who is ever ready to
assist all who visit Honduras to an extent that has, and will
continue to trespass heavily upon his time, though he seems able
to, or at least does,. the work of about three men. Having
deemed it best to do so, have secured a schooner, by charter, to
convey us to any point we may desire to visit, and for an indefinite length of time.  Our party being divided into comimittees, in order to, facilicitate business, we hope to be off tomorrow. Since our arrliival here, the breeze has been constantly
blowing very freshly from the bay, and at night we were lulled
to sleep by. its sighing through the lattice, the sound wouldr
alternately rise, to Eolian; sweetness, and almost die away, which
was peculiarly grateful to the feelings, and far from being unpleasant to. the. ear;:: but what pleasure was ever unalloyed, or
continued for any length of time without interruption? The
wind entirely: died -away at 8 o'clock this evening, and before
ten changed to the north-west, causing an invasion of our




DIARY.                         23
premises by such a force of sand flies as to render opposition
futile, and we were punished to a degree that it is impossible for
us to make known, but will ever be remembered; being entirely
without bars, except the writer, who was supplied with one
made this morning, of muslin, but at the moment out of reach
because needed. Suffice it to say for the present that, they gave
no notice of their approach, came in immense force, and each individual armed with what seemed to us to be a red-hot needle,
which they used with a vigor worthy of a better cause, and
served to admonish the poor'ex-confeds" that it was still their
destiny to suffer.
JANUARY 9th. —This morning the wind is blowing from the
opposite direction, sand flies are gone, and we will endeavor to
forget'the miseries of the past night, and more particularly, as
iwe have determined not to be clhecked by any obstacle or annoyance we may meet with, but to battle cheerfnlly every
opposilng cause in strivingl for the end we wish to attain.  Although we had fully expected to make a start this morning, the
very disagreeable information is imparted to us that the vessel
chartered yesterday can not go, and we are under the necessity of getting another. Fortunately, a schooner is in port fromn
Omoa, which we have engaged, and which is now unloadino,,
therefore can reasonably expect to leave Belize in the distalnce
to-morrow, at furthest. It would have been better hald ve
visited the schooner before chartering her, but we didc not, yet
feel it our duty to make the following statement, in the hope it
may be of some service to those who may hereafter be situated
as we were. Between Omoa and Belize a Considerable trade i.
carried on in swine, by means of schooners varying in capacity
froml ten to fifty tons, the animals being placed in the hold of the
vessel. The schooner selected by us had just arrived with a




2 4                A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
cargo of this description, and though an attempt was made at
cleansing, it became very apparent in the course of a day that
the process might have been carried to much greater extent,
with decided advantage.
JANUARY  10th. — At 9 this morning we started for the
schooner "'Three Sisters," of 11 tons, Capt. Francisco Solaro.
which was anchored about half a mile from shore, though the!Captain and crew did not come aboard till 2.45, P. M., when we
weighed anchor for Manatee Bar, eighteen miles distant, and a
little west of south from Belize. The pilot who was to accompany us, came on board with the Captain, but without his knowing it returned in the boat that brought them off. After sailing
a mile, we came to anchor, and Capt. Solaro returned to Belize
to investigate the conduct of the pilot. Being pleasantly located,
and a delightful breeze blowing from  the north-west, must
exercise patience, our stock of which we did not find excessive, as
requisition has to be made in that direction very frequently, for
very large quantities, to be delivered in the very best order, and
immediately. At 3.45 the Captain returned without the pilot,
and we again weighed anchor and proceeded on our way without
that individual, although we feel the necessity of having one, as
our captain does not know all the points we desire to visit.
Having heard much of Spanish Honduras during our few days
stay at Belize, several of our party desire to visit that country,
whatever may be the result of our present trip, as it will occupy
but a few days to do so, and we can then verify or disprove by
occular demonstration the extravagant stories we have heard of
the Republic. Thermometer, F. 6 A. M., 72; 12 M., 82k; 6 P.
JANUARY llth.-Finding that we could not reach Manatee




DIARY.                         25
Bar before night, in consequence of our late start, have concluded to go on, and visit it on our return. At a reasonable
hour at night we disposed ourselves for sleep; the older gentlemen occupying the four berths of the cabin, others taking the
hold of the vessel, and  some using their hammocks, slung
in the rigging: ourself and one other taking the top of the
cabin, which was elevated a few feet above deck. At 12~ all on
deck were aroused by a shower, delivered by a passing cloudand which cooled the atmosphere. to such an extent as to make
two blankets decidedly comfortable, and of course one each was
the extent of our supply in that direction. As for the wetting
we received, our experience in that way has been too extensive
in time past to give it a passing thought. It being so very cooI
we examined the thermometer and to our astonishment found it
to indicate 83, although these is no breeze, and our vessel is
driftino with the current. This remarkable difference between
actual, and from  one's feelings, apparent temperature, we will
revert to again when on the subject of climate.
JANUARY 11th. —At 6 A. M. we were very near the mouth
of North Stann Creek, distant thirty-five miles from Belize, and
made for it in order to go ashore. At 7 we cast anchor, and
visited a Carib village located here, which we found to extend
along the coast for the. distance of half a mile, and to cointain
about 800 inhabitants, and a'methodist and a catholic church,.
Mr. Brown, the police officer of the place, was absent, as was
also tihe methodist minister; therefore, we passed through the
village and trusted to our observation for information.  VWe
found the houses to be built about square, eighteen feet the
usual size, and to be constructed of studdinog, with cane of the
country secured across them, and filled with clay; the roof being
very steep, forming an equilateral triangle. and being covered
3




26                  A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
with the split braliches of the Cahoon palm.  They have no
chiniipeys,; no windows with glass, nor floors. except those made
of "mother earth."  We here saw  the manner in which the
Cassava root is prepared for bread.  (See description of that
rioot.) The root is grated:and placed in a long tube, or bag,
five feet in length ancld four:inches in diameter, which is suspended
froll a beam till all sap of the root is drained from it, when it is:siftel, made into cakes-  which are two feet in diameter, and one
fourth of an inch thick,: and baked. This is called Cassava or
pilot bread, and will keep a very long time; has a cream color,
but though we have eaten much of it, do not think we would
prefer it, under any circunstances, to the wheaten loaf or the
corn cake of our country.  Their graters and sifters we deem
worthy of description, and are made as follows.  The grater is a
piece of mahogany 1i inches thick, 18 inches wide and 2  feet long,
across which lines are drawn three-fourths of an inch apart, which
lines are divided along their length so that the division lines will
uan diagonally, and at each point of division a hole is punched
and a pice of broken pebble driven in that will not be more than.
half the size of a pea, and the grater is complete,  The sifter is
3 feet in diameter, and is made of split cane, through which thc
Cassava is rubbled by the hands, and not by shaking as with us.
From eight to ten miles in rear of this place, though the distance
does not appear so great, there is a range of high hills. The na
tives plant at and near the base of these, and depend upol  th(
Belize market for the sale of all they have to dispose ofo  Th(
coast is not more than two feet above the level of the sea, th(
waters of which are well stocked with fish, if we can rely upoi
the statements of the natives.
We also saw quite a quantity of fish dryiig across poles'We here found a dory, made of Spanish cedar, which measurer




DIARY.                         27
36 feet in length, 7 feet wide, 3 feet deep, 1 inches thick and
elegantly modeled. After purchasing some oranges at 75 cents
per hundred, we returned to the vessel and at 9.20 A. M.
weighed anchor for "All Pines," forty-five miles distant from
Belize. The natives of the village just left were found to be
polite, and willingly answered any questions we propounded,
though they frequently manifested some surprise at our ignorance,
of their manners and customs, and would laugh heartily at our
description of the customs of our own country, and the differences.
that existed among us. They could all speak English, and we'
therefore had no difficulty in making ourselves understood.
Cocoa nuts, oil from the cocoa nut, and oranges was all they
offered for sale.
On being asked why the oil was so white and thick, they replied, "' it is because the weather is so cold!!" The thermometer
at the time ranging as high as 76 O. There being very little
breeze, we did not reach "All Pines" till 2.25 P. M., where we
immediately went ashore for the purpose of visiting one of the
sugar estates of Mr. Math6. We found Mr. Debraam, whose;esidence is on the coast, immediately on landing, who received,
us very cordially, and expressed  his regret that he could not.
Furnish us with conveyance to the estate, three miles distant,.
tlhat evening, there being too many of us to accommodate thus
-ar, on the limited notice given him, and as we were anxious to
reep moving, at once proceeded on foot for the " Estate."  For'
ne-half the distance from the coast to the "Estate" we found?;he country at the time it was opened to have been covered with
)ine, most of which had been made into lumber and sent to the
West Indies by Mr. Debraam. There is quite a large store near;he coast, a very complete lumber mill, and a foundry, the pro)erty of the Estate.  Over the distance between these two




28                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
points is a most excellent road, which, for about half the way
has been thrown up, at great expense, in order to avoid the mud
of the wet season. The Estates, there being three in number,
and not very far apart, Mr. Debraam superintends the whole,
which are situated on the " Sittee" river, and twelve miles
from the coast by water though only three by land.
On our way up we saw many cattle, though they did not look
so well as we had reason to expect in this land of perpetual
pasturage. Mr. Aquet, Mr. Savage and Mr. Hanson, who are
in charge of different duties on the premises, very kindly gave us
all the information we desired.- What we here witnessed would
certainly astonish a Louisiana sugar planter. The places were
opened in 1863, and Mr. Debraam informed us he expected to
make six thousand' pounds of sugar per acre, and there being
four hundred acres in cultivation, it is a question for the
juveniles to decide how much coffee it will sweeten. A gentleman of our party who is well acquainted with the production of
sugar, when told of the expectation as to yield, looked incredulous, but after making an examination of the growing crop,
remarked that he was prepared, to believe ten thousand pounds
could be made to the acre if the yield should prove in proportion
to the quantity of cane produced, taking the Louisiana yield as
his basis. Plenty of the canes were two and a half inches in
diameter and fifteen to twenty feet in length. The fields were a
perfect mass of vegetation, the. canes growing to a certain height,
and under their own weight ffalling over and again growing up,
forming curves not unlike the letter S when in this position m.
Many of us were at first disappointed because of the cane not
growing higher, and one of our party caught hold of a top which
was not more than three feet above the ground, and asked one
of the gentlemen in charge of the place if he called that sugar




DIARY.                        29
cane; at the same timle giving it a jerk, when it developed the
fact thalt three feet was not its length, but eighteen. which
proved satisfactory to all parties concerned. The buildings on
the place are not constructed of brick, and might be more properly called sheds, though constructed in the most substantial
manner, with galvanized corrugated iron roofing, and the machinery of the most costly and approved patterns. A very large
sum has been expended, and thus far no return for the outlay of'
capital. No plows are used in preparing the ground, but holes
are dug' with a hoe or machete, in rows six feet apart and three
feet in the drill, where the cane is planted in pieces from eight
inches to one foot in length, and when once planted it is
said to rattoon for fifteen years, and has been known to do so
for a greater length of time. The best time for planting the
cane is in October and November, though it may be planted at
any time during the rainy season-which is said to begin about
the first of June and to continue to the end of the year.
- The- grinding is commenced in from twelve to fourteen months,
notwithstanding the statements that have appeared in print that
two and three crops -can be made in a year. Having made use
of the word " Machete " for the first time, and its being an indispensable article in this country, it is as well to describe it here
as elsewhere. (It is a heavy knife, from eighteen to twenty-four
inches in length, and from  two to two and a half inches in
width, with a proportionate thickness, and is to the native, his
axe, his hatchet, his saw, his plow, harrow,'shovel, spade, hoe,
pruning knife and weapon of defense. They never go to the
woods without it, and we have seen them cut asunder logs eight
and ten inches in diameter with them, though of course the
implement would have been broken in the hand of one of less
experience.)  We measured at "All Pines " a Dorey that is:




30                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
perhaps the largest in Honduras.  It is thirty-five feet long,
~eight feet wide and four feet deep, and is to receive machinery
that will weigh two tuns, and be used between this point and
Belize for the benefit of the "Estates."  (See article on Boats).
On reaching the schooner, all were very tired, having wallked
continually since leaving the vessel, though we have all been amply
repaid for the investment of physical exertion, for it can safely
be said we have had ocular demonstration of at least one of the
wonders of this said to be wonderful portion of the earth.  Our
next place of landing will be South Stann Creek, fifty miles from
Belize, and it being close by, have determined to lay here tonight and make an early start in the morning.  Thermometer 6
A. M. 75T; 12 M. 81: 6 P. M. M80-.
JANUARY 12th. —We weighed anchor at 5 A. Mf., and again
cast anchor at South Stann Creek, near the residence of Mr. C.
Chamberlin, who has a large body of land at this point, purchased of Mr. Mathe. Mr. C. formerly resided at Natchez, and
though he has been in possession of a large property, had his
family living within reach of every luxury of life, and is now
in possession of a much larger portion of this world's goods
than is the case with most of us, this gentleman, with an elegant
and accomplished family, reared in luxury, has chosen to lead the
life of a pioneer in a comparatively unknown country, where law
and order prevail, rather than to remain in a land where there is
but little protection, and less prospect of accumulation.  May
they reap the reward of their determination, enterprise and self
denial. Mr. C. having been here for a very short time, has
made very little clearing, but having cut a road for ten miles
from the coast to the interior, we passed over it under the
guidance of Mr. WValker, and found the land very rich, with the
Cahoon palm the prevailing growth. For half a mile back from




DIARY.                         31
the coast-pei'haps not quite so far —it will be necessary to
corduroy in order to make a firm road, but beyond this nothing
of the kind will be necessary. The ten miles of road terminated
at a point on the creek where the bank was fifteen feet high at
the time, though the creek was very low-yet there can be no
doubt of its being navigable at certain seasons of the year for
the " Dorey."   Ve. found in ourt walk a Caoutchouc or India,
rubber tree that measured twenty inches in diameter and fifty
feet to the first limb.  A cut with the Machete caused the sap
to flow very freely, and to thicken almost instantly under the
action of the atmosphere-a portion of which we scraped off,
wrapped in a leaf, and placed among the curiosities in our ever
present satchel. -The sap, when it exudes from the tree is a
light cream color, and the quantity that can be obtained from a
tree is almost incredible; the flow being much more rapid than
we have ever seen from any other tree. At the landing we
found a bamboo that was used as a clothes line, that measured
forty-eight feet-in length, five inches in diameter at the butt,
and two inches in diameter at the other end where it had been
cut off, and originally must have been at least sixty feet in
length. We also saw an enclosure -made with the Pimente, a
species of palm growing from twelve to fifteen feet in height and
three to four inches in diameter, very straight and without
limbs. The fence is made in the following manner: The poles
are cut six feet in length, driven into the ground four or six
inches, close together, and poles of the same material are placed
horizontally within a foot of the top on each side, and opposite, they are then tied with vines, and it is finished. This
material is used very extensively throughout the country, for
many purposes. Here we also saw some of the native weatherboarding, made from the cabbage or Royal palm tree. This




32                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
tree hlas a very straigpht, smooth body, frequently being fifty feet
high, and a foot in diameter. For half an inch of its depth the
wood is solid, but the interior is pithy and not unlike the sugar
cane ill appearance. T- his tree is felled, and the exterior of the
trunk removed in slabs from  ten to fourteen feet in length and
four to six inches in width. In using it for weather-boarding,
one precaution only is necessary —be careful you do not delay
the nail driving, for while you can' by the use of a Machete bring
down a tree a foot in diameter with a few blows, after these
boards become dry they are only fit for the wood pile, as they
are as hard as horn. The natives will get out these boards for
ten dollars per 1000 superficial feet, and furnish their own provision. After enjoying the hospitality of Mr. C. and family
during the day, we had a discourse from the Rev. Mr. Pearce,
and at a late hour in the afternoon again boarded our water
craft, and at 6.1.5 weighed anchor and set sail for " Seven Hills."
We had another rain at mid-night, but the deck is our place, as:it *is decidedly the most comfortable, rain or shlii'e. The cabin
and the hold are now decidedly uncomfortable; for two reasonsthe want of breeze, and the absence of pure air; those who have
taken up their quarters below, finding it necessary to make frequent and often very lengthy visits to the deck in consequence
of the character of the vessel's last cargo.'Thermometer 6 A.
M., 80; 12 M., 82; 6 P. M., 81.
JANUARY 13.-At 11 A. MI., being opposite the mouth of the
Rio Grande, 80 miles from Belize, and six miles from shore, in a
perfect calm, Dr. G. A. Frierson and myself took the vessel's
" Dorey " and two boys of the crew to go ashore for the purpose
of getting guides and pitpans (see boats) of Mr. Bennett, manager of the Seven Hills sugar Estate of Messrs. Young Toledo &
Co., to whom  our party brought letters from the firm at Belize,




DIARY.                        33
for the purpose. We landed on an island near the mouth of the
river, after having paddled apparently over twice the distance it
at first seemed we had to go, and though we found a large native
house here, several smaller ones, and three Pitpans, thirty feet
in length, concluded to await the arrival of a sail boat three
miles north-east of us, and- which we hope is coming to the river,
before acting farther. Between the schooner and the shore we
crossed a shoal that was very thickly strewn with the conch and
star-fish, and made several attempts to obtain some with our
paddles, but failed to do so-though the water was only five feet
deep. The water on the bar at the mouth of the river we found
to be four and a half feet deep, the river half a mile from its mouth
being from seventy-five to one hundred yards wide. Soon after
reaching the island, a fine breeze sprang up from the north-east,
*which makes it very pleasant sitting under the cocoa nut trees
and indulging in the pleasing reflection that we will not be under
the necessity of paddling a second time over this -waste of water,
as our vessel can not fail to be wafted towards us. We found
on the island an almond tree sixteen inches in diameter but little
fruit on it. The sail boat having passed us, we concluded to
paddle to a village a few miles off, and proceeded but a short
distance when the boys expressed a desire to return to the
schooner, as she was heading for the north-east, and we were
going from her.  We gratified them, and it proved fortunate for
us, reaching the vessel at 2.30, over a pretty rough sea for our
little craft. A  native reached the schooner at the same time,
who was on his way to Seven Hill Creek, on which Mr. Bennett
lives. From this man it was ascertained we were too far south
by eight miles.
While returning to the vessel we saw a Chicken hawk, king
fisher and snipe, which reminded us of-' nct home-but the land




34                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
we left. As we paddled along the coast, before returning to the
vessel, numbers of a variety of the sardine, of a beautiful purple
and gold, color; leaped into the boat. After the scales were
serape4;from.them, they were so near transparent that print
could be read; though their bodies, though they were more than
one-fourth of an inch in thickness. They. cooked onl the schooner,
to-day, a cabbage from the cabbage tree, boiling it with bacon
as seasoning, and which was found to be very much like the
stalk of cabbage of our gardens, though more tender, yet like all
substitutes was very far from the original. This calbbage is
nothing more than the pith of the top of the trunk of the Royal
palm, and may be obtained four inches in diameter and twelve or
fifteen inches in length from a tree that is twenty feet high
Reaching the mouth of " Seven Mile" creek, Mr. Morris, Dr.
G. A. Frierson and myself proceeded up the creek to the residence of Mr. Bennett, to whom  we delivered our letters, and
he promised to have at the mouth of the MIoho river, 20 miles
below Seven Mile creek, for our use, at day-light in the morning,
two Dories, properly manned and with competent guides. Soon
after we left the vessel a squall came on, with rain, but soon
passed off. WVe were in it long enough to get wet, but are
becoming accustomed to that occurrence in this latitude.  Here
we made our first inquiry concerning the cultivation, or rather
growth of corn, yield, &c. Mr. B. stated that he had raised two
crops of corn, and two crops of rice in one year.  (See article on
Cereals.)  This place was opened in 1866, the first cutting being
done on the 19th of March of that year, and two hundred and
fifty acres are now in cultivation, or rather planted in cane;
cultivation is no word in this country.  We returned to the
vessel after dark, and after reporting progress, it was agreed
that the party should be divided; one to take a boat and ex



DIARY.                        35
plore the Middle River and Golden Stream, and the other the
Moho and Rio Grande. The party to explore the first two
rivers, near which we were then anchored,,to start in the morning with one of the boats, the other: to go on with the schooner
to the Rio Grande, where they would be left for the expedition
up that river, and the schooner to proceed to the:" Moho," still
farther south, and anchor till all parties should meet again at
that place. The party to go above and, explore the Goldern
Stream and Moho rivers to consist of Rev. Mr. Pearce, Mr.
Morris,. Dr. G. A. Frierson and myself. MIr. KBane went ashore to
inform  Mr. Bennett of the change in our programme, and we
gradually turned to our boards and blankets for the night.
Thermometer 6 A. AM., 79; 12 M., 82; 6 P. AM., 81.
JANUARY 14th. —Though we had a heavy rain last night, there
is fair prospect of a good day for our expedition, and by 7 A. M.
we were on our way for Middle River, which we *found to have.
3 1-2 feet water at the bar, with amud, bottomi, into which the
pole would sink very readily to a deptlh of two feet, which is
favorable to navigation, all knowingo  the difference between
grounding on mud and on sand. The river is one hundred yards
wide at a distance of one hundred and fifty yards from its mouth,
annd for a distanlce of two miies is skirted with Mangrove to the
water's edge, which growth is someewXhat on the Banyan order,
its limbs turning' to the water and penetrating the imud at the
bottom. The Mangrove for the distance mientioned is small,
being not inmore than eight or ten feet high, but after passing the
distance named it increases in size to eight inches in diameteri
and thirty feet in height. The MaSngrove is a certain evidence of
of swampy land, though not always found on low ground.  For
several miles up this river the land is reserved bT Mles~srs.




36.              A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
Toledo & Co., which information we received from one of our
party who knew Mr. Bennett, and had been so informed by that
gentleman. We found at the distance of three miles from the
bar, timber growing to the waters edge, and but little Mangrove.
We reached Swazey's landing, which is situated five miles from
the ibar and on the north bank of the river —at 8. 30 A. M.
The bank at this place is three feet high, but at a distance of one
hundred and forty yards back rises to an elevation of twelve or
fourteen feet. This seems to have been selected by Mr. S. as
a site for his houses, on account of its elevation, he being
engaged in cutting Mahogany, but being about through, we
were informed he would leave for another locality in a few weeks.
Here was seen the first hive of stingless bees.  They are about
one third smaller than our bees, and producing a very fair
quantity of honey, for workmen of their size, would be desirable
in any locality where they would live. The hive is a hollow log
plugged at each end with wood, and of convenient length for
hanging against the side of the house by means of vines.
When it is desired to take honey, it is done by removing one of'
the plugs and breaking the cells containing the honey, by repeated punching with a sharpened stick, when the opposite end
is elevated and the honey runs out. The hive we saw was four
feet lollg, and had a hollow about six inches in diameter, and is
said to yield in February, at which time it is opened, from two
to three quarts of honey, by the means stated. After remaining
here a few minutes we moved forward. Three-fourths of a mile
above Swazey's the north bank rises to four feet, the surface
being covered with coarse grass, while the I opposite bank is only
two feet high. One fourth a mile further on the bank is not
more than fifteen or eighteen inches high, the growth being
Cahoon and Pimente. Here the river narrows to twenty yards,




DIARY.                         37
with an occasional slough coming to it.  We passed a tree fallen into the water, on a limb of which we saw drift four feet
above the surface of the water, which clearly indicates the stream
is not always as low as at present.  The place selected by Dr.
F. G. Pew, of Arkansas. was reached at 8.30, the Doctor being
found busy with his buildings and clearing.  T'he- bank at this
point is six feet higoh, and though the streami is eight yards wide
we are at the head of even Dorey navigation, tihebottom of the
stream is rocky with sevei'al large rocks cropping out on either
bank. From here, north, the guide informed us, the distance is
twelve miles to the Golden-stream.  Concliiding to go a short
distance into the country, we crossed the stream  at 10. 15 and
examined the land for a mile and a half, and returned to our boat
thoroughly saturated with water, a very heavy rain having fallen
during our trip, from which we had no means of protection.
The ground was very sloppy, and we had some wading to do,
though we crossed but one bayou, which will prove an advantage
to the ground as a natural drain.  Our boatmen, three in number, were as wet as ourselves, but more provident, as they never
undertake such expeditions without a " Patikee " in which to
carry a change of clothing, and any articles of convenience they
may need. The Patikee is a basket made of the splits of a vine
called centretie, and in the form of a trunk; the basket sloping
upward, in order that the top may fit tightly.  These two are
covered with palm leaves, and another basket is woven over each,
when it is ready for use; not a drop of rain being able to penetrate it.
Bidding adieu to the Doctor at 3 P. MI., we moved clown the
river with the intention of camping near its mouth till morning,
when we expect to ascend the Golden-stream.  On our way
down, seeing' a piece of ground about 2 1-2 miles above the mouth
4




38                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
that was evidently higher than the surrounding country, and
not knowing its extent, we waded across the intervening Mangrove swamp, made an examination and found it to be small
in extent, with a large lagoon bounding itl on two sides. At
5. 05 our boat landed at a small village, half a mile below the
river's mouth, where we remained for the night. After cooking
and disposing of our simple meal, and enjoying a cup of tea,
fiurnished by the providence of Mr. Morris, we built a fire and
engaged in the drying process, which occupied the night to a
late hofir. The fire was made of dry Mahogany, and we can
testify.to its being most excellent fuel, and the only thing that
prevented our having a broil was the want of steak, beautiful
coals being on hand in large quantity.  The native closed his
house at dark in order to keep out musquitoes, all that were in
the house having been driven out by the smoke. Mr. P. and Dr.
P. slung' their hammocks, Mr. M. and myself preferring the
floor.  We slept on a mahogany. door, placed without hesitation
on the vnlgar dirt for our accommodation.  Themometer 6. A.
ML 79: 12 M. 78: 6 P. M. 79.
JANUARY 15th. —Left camp this morning for the Goldenstream, finding four feet water on the bar, with mud bottom.
oorl a distance of four miles the shore is very low and* covered
vwith Mangrove, after which timber comes to the waters edge
and Pimento is very thick. There is also more or less Mangrove which here grows to forty and fifty feet in height and a foot
nl diameter —would have taken it for sometbhifng else, but for the
opinion of the guide. At the distance of six miles fronm the bar,,came to a boom placed across the river to catch Mahogany logs,
which was crossed without difficulty.  Seven miles from  the
mouth of the river there is three feet bank, with cahoon in abundance, the stream being forty yards wide, with twelve feet water.




DIARY.                        39
Half a mile further on we came to another boom, with several
hundred Manogany logs, some of them  being three feet in di_
ameter and fifty feet in length; which was crossed  after very
considerable effort and we again moved forward.  Antonio (our'
guide) informed us that he worked at this point for three years,
and that as we ascend the river the land  wvill be found  higher.
Half a mile further up we were at another boom, larger than the
one just crossed and so jammed that no opening could be madewithout great exertion, and would occupy the entire day. Not
feeling disposed to be stopped by such obstacles, it was suggest eS
to Antonio that we make the attempt to cross, which he did not
oppose, we having found him at all times very accommodating,
but being informed of another boom a short distance above this
concluded to go ashore and examine the country, though we
were very anxious to go higher.  Landing a.t 12. 15 P. M., we
followed the course of the river through water and swamp for
the distance of a mile and a half, frequently wading to our
knees, when vwe came to the boom we were told of, which rendered it utmost unnecessary to cross the one where the boat was
secured. Theriver is here forty  yards wile, with  plenty of
water, and distance from the bay nine miles. The bank is three
feet high at this point, and gradually rises till at a distance of
thirty yards from  the water's edge, it is about ten feet high.
From this place we moved in the direction of Swazey's landing (southward) for a distance of one and a half miles, and
found a very good country, covered with Cahoon and an undergrowth, not dense, about the size of hoop poles.  Comirng' to
creek which we found to be deep, and not being able to ford it,.
returned to the boat and at 2. 45 again turned our faces towardT
the " briny deep, " reaching the camp of last night at 5. 15.
Requesting  Antonio to make all things ready. for our departubre




40                  A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
at once for the mouth of the Moho, where we expected to find
the schooner, he at once proceeded to do so, and at 6 with sails
hoisted, though very little breeze, we were on our way and
reached the schooner soon after mid-night. On our way down,
and when about half an hour out, Antonio boarded the schooner
Zenobia, bound for Seven Hills, and the property of Young,
Toledo & Co.; he obtained a bottle of Anisette, which caused
the blood of the entire party to flow less sluggishly, and brought
from "iHerardo" and "$imon," two of the crew, several SpanishSOngs, which, together with our sail down the coast with a very
gentle and steady breeze, and the rippling of the water as we
passed through it, made the trip one of the most pleasant we
will probably make during our stay in the country. Most of the
party left on the schooner when we departed for Middle river,
had gone up the Moho, and we concluded to camp on shore,
and follow them after breakfast in the morning.  Thermometer,
6 A. AI.. 80 1-2: 12 Ni. 82: 6 p. i. 20.
JANUARY 16th.-At 8. 25 we left for the Moho, finding
feet water on the bar, and the width of the stream  two hundred
yards from the mouth, to be one hundred and fifty yards, which
is preserved for three fourths of a mile.  The south bank, for
the distance of a mile is skirted with Mangrove which is larger
than that found on either the Middle river or Golden-Stream;
the same growth being on the north bank, though smaller.
Three fourths of a mile from the bar a small stream  one and a
half miles in length, which the natives call "A'; argo," enters the
river. At the distance of one mile from the bar, timber comes
to the waters edge on either side. We tried the temperature of
the water and found it to be 76 deg., while the atmosphere was 7 9
deg. The water is clear-and very palatable. One and a half miles
from the bar, timber occasionally recedes from  the bank for a




DIARY.                       41
distance of several hundred yards, the intervening space being
covered with Mangrove, which continues for a mile, when timber
takes almost entire possession. Not till we had passed over a
distance of three and a half miles, did we find Cahoon, and then
only one occasionally. At 12 MI. we reached the camp of Capt.
J. E. Smith, Civil Engineer, who has a number of assistants and
is engaged in surveying land for Messrs. Young, Toledo & Co.,
of Belize. This camp is six feet above the level of the river,
but the ground recedes. A short distance below here we landed
to examine a native's plantation, containing six or eight acres,
where we found growing the Pine-apple, sugar-cane, cassava,
yam and Indian-corn,; the owner being in the employ of Mr.
Swazey and living on Middle river, many miles distant. The
river at Camp  Dswight, Capt. Smith's present locality, is
sixty yards wide and no bottom with a 20 foot line.  Rock was
occasionally seen jutting from the bank as we paddled along,
though none:was visible on the surface of the ground. A heavy
rain kept us here till 1. 25, when we again pushed out with the
hope of overtaking Col. Harrison, who preceded us, having left
the vessel yesterday morning, and Camp Dwight at 6 A. M
to-day. Previous to to-day we have been surprised at the scarcity of animal'life, so much'so that the reader will remember our
having mentioned seeing several birds, known to us in the States,
but a short distance from Camp Dwight we saw the Iguana in
immense numbers, and many birds of beautiful plumage which
were unknown to us.
Dr. Frierson shot an Iguana that measured nearly four feet in
length, the body being about three-inches in diameter at its largest part. For the distan'ce of four miles above Camp Dwight
the river is fringed to the water's edge with bamboo, and has an
average width'of' fifty yards. Meeting Col. Harrison, we return



42                  A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
ed' with him, reaching the schooner at 6. 20::, where the Colonel.
gave us the following accunt of his trip. "Found five feet-water
at the bar, crossed first rapids sixteen miles.;iup, and the. second
twenty miles from bar, finding two and a half feet water,on them
and a fall of three.feet-in one hundredl'yards; the rapids extending for several hundred yards, no attempt was made to cross
them. IHere the party landed, and after going two and a half
miles north, came to a bayou twelve feet wide, with six feet bank,
but land flat and wet.  Cahoon was found one mile front bank
of river. Several gentlemen went south to the base of a mouuain or large hill which was found to be less than a mile from
the river." Col. HI., when we met him on his return, was in
company with several boats containing..,persons engaged in the
same undertaking as ourselves, and whon  we did not know,
none of whom expressed themselves satisfied with what they had
seen. MIost of these-persons had their camp at Ponto-Gordo, a
few miles north of the Moho and on the coast.  The expedition
up the Rio-Grande was made by Capt. Buckner,- Mr. Peak and
tMr. Owen. From the Captain we received the following report.
"Left the schooner soon after you did, entering the river at 9 A.
M., and finding it one hundred and fifty yards wide, one hundred and fifty yards from the mouth, which width it retains for
half a mile, where it diminishes to one hundred yards; mangrove
growing on either side. One and a half miles up, timberireaches
the water's edge on the north side, where the bank was found to
be five feet high, which continued about the same heighth as far
as "Big-Hills," which are ten miles from the bar.. There are. two
other above this, the first being half a mile distant and the other
one mile; at the base of which is an old Spanish settlement,
with Cocoa nut and Banana trees growing.  (Why was this
place abandoned? ) These hills are about as high as the seven




DIARY.                         43
hills-say one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet. At a distance of sixteen miles from the bar, came, to a camp established
by mahogany cutters, where the party!landed and entered the
bush for half a mile, but not finding the land to be what they
desired returned to their boat, where a native informed them
they could go as far as the rapids, thirty miles above, but no
further. From this place they returned to the schooner. Thermometer 6 A. Al. 71: 12 M. 77: 6 P. M. 77."
JANUARY 17th.-At 9 A M. our anchor was again brought to
the surface and we filled away for Livingston, Guatenmala, at
the mouth of the Dulce river, which flows from lake Isabel. Wre
saw on this coast the highest land we had seen since leaving
Belize; the mountains frequently coming to the sea.  Rain continued during most of last night, but we remained on deck, and
succeeded in protecting ourselves pretty well by means of an India
rubber coat and umbrella, and in a setting position, slept soundly,
as we had often done before. At noon  we tried  a stewed
Iguana, prepared in the most approved style by the schooner's
cook, and, after laying aside all prejudice, it was pronounced
equal to young squirrel in delicacy of flavor. To-day was
showery antl disagreeable in the extreme.  A squall struck us at
1. 20 P. M., which made the little vessel enter the harbor of Livingston with great speed, and we came to anchor at 1. 40. At the
time of our leaving Belize there was some cholera reported at
the place, which was not unknown at Livingston.  Soon as we
anchored a health officer came aboard, and we were informed it
was necessary for us to go into quarantine, for several days, before
we could come on shore. This was a disappointment, as we
desired to visit lake Isabal, and to ramble over a little  high
ground, but could not think of subjecting ourselves to the moalesi
requirement of several days quarantine. Not being able to go




44                  A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
ashore we succeeded in replenishing our stock of fluids with several
bottles ofnative rum, though the person who brought it out
could not tread the deck of the vessel. Presume the health of
ficer thought he was perfectly safe along side-we sincerely hope
he is still living. As this section of the world is said to be
infested with snakes, and alcoholic liquor being considered iun our
land a specfic for their bite, on the principle of alcohol not being
digested, but passing off through the circulation, and one poison
neutralizing another, we can confidently recommend the rum of
Livingston for the purpose named, as we certainly never tested
such villainous stuff before, during the whole course of our lives,
not excepting the Pine top of Confederate times which it leaves
in the shade as completely as the "God of day" does the refulgent beams of a farthing rush light. Thanks, however, to the
gentleman who was kind enough to obtain it for us, it was
undoubtedly the best he could do. We also obtained of Mr.-.a bunch of fine fish which were the first since leaving Belize:
*having failed in all our efforts to catch any by trolling as we:sailed along the coast. Livingston seemed to be a very small
place, we saw only a few houses, near the bluff, on which
it is situated, and which is from  twenty to thirty feet in
height. At 4 o'clock, the stiff breeze from the north-west that
prevailed at the time we cast anchor having subsided, we moved
away from Livingston in the direction of Omoa, in the Republic.of Honduras. Thermometer, 6 A. r. 72; 12 vr. 75; 6 P. I. 74.
JANUARY 18th. A heavv rain this morning at an unseasonable hour stirred up the deck sleepers, and,the water was so
rough that several of the party were sea-sick.  As we sailed
along, the coast presents the same appearance as at and near
Livingston, the mountains coming to the sea.  We, ought to
have reached Omoa during the night, but did not till a late hour
YCV~ LCIVIV    VI-V~UU-~0




DIARY.                         45
in the afternoon, and while rapidly approaching the harbor the
captain was hailed from a small boat, in a language we did not
understand, but its magric effect was at once visible, for never
did anchor of the same weight reach bottom quicker in the same
depth of water than did that of the " Three Sisters," and we
were still.  Horror of horrors, the authorities are afraid of cholera,-but will see us in the morning.  Visions ofl quarantine rise
before us, shutting out from our view all that is beautiful, and
crowding from  the memory all that is hopeful.  One thing we
felt assured of, if they wanted a cholera germ at,Omoa, it would
only be necessary to keep us in the Pig-sty we were occupying,
and they would get it of the most virulent type.  WTe determined to go ashore the next day, if not at Omoa, at some other
place.  For sonme days past nearly every hygienic law has been
transgressed, and for the first time in our life we were inclined
to doubt that " Disease is in many cases consequent upon the
violation of a law of nature." Thermometer 6, A. AM. 77; 12 lM;
78l; 6 P. M. 79.
JANUARY 19.-We passed a very disagreeable night, having
frequent showers, but were cheered by the sun's appearance at
7.30, and we proceeded to " hang out " our clothes, blankets, &c.
Havin g left nearly all our baggage at Belize we frequently find
it difficult to raise a dry garment when the rain continues.  The
celebrated fort of Omoa is within a short distance of us, but the
town is half a mile back, and looks rather smallfor its age.
At 8 A. M., Dr. De Soto, the health officer came on board,
and finding each individual in possession of a cup of coffee and
hard tack concluded we were all right, and returned to report.
In an hour and a quarter, seemingly a very long time, permission -was granted us to go ashore, of which we were not slow to
avail ourselves, and very soon all were once more on /'erra,




46                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
firma. We " put up " at Belisle's Hotel, and had the best of
the season placed before us in the greatest variety and prepared
in the most approved styles. Belisle or as he is called by most
persons the "Judge," is quite a noted  individual -.holding
several offices of a civil character, and is the only hotel keeper
in the place. You are not roused from your slumbers by the
discordant gong, or the unpleasant bell, but by the dulcet notes
of a very large hand organ, which is played with great skill by
the judge himself.
We have yet to hear of the first person going to the Judge
hungry and leaving unfed,'- or going without money and going
away empty. We were the recipients of many kindnesses from
the Judge, in the case of articles left with him, aind in other ways,
and on all occasions found him  equal to any trust confided to
him.;We reached shore in time for breakfast, which, according
to the custom of the country is placed on the board at 10 A. Mi.,
coffee having been served at 7, and which is considered sufficient
foundation, but confess we always felt, before the breakfast hour,
that our foundation would hardly support the superstructure we
expected to place upon it.
At 1 P. M.;, Col. Harison and myself obtained horses and
nuder guidance of a gentleman who had visited the coast, made
a trip to " Port Cabellos," about ten miles distant, and the
northern terminus of the projected interoceanic railroad that is
to run from the bay of Farseca on the south, and which was
surveyed by Mr. Trautwine in 1858 at an expense of two hundred thousand dollars. The length of route surveyed being
about. one hundred and fifty miles. We passed on our route a
tree of gigantic size said to be the one under which Cortes gave
"4Gracias a Dios" for his escape from the many perils-by which
he was beset in his travels. The port is situated at the head of




DIARY.                        47
a beautiful bay and has one of the finest harbors in the world 
maps prepared in England from coast surveys, shew that the
largest vessels can anchor within a very short distance of the
coast in perfect safety, and small craft can come within one hundred yards of th6 shore. Col. McDermott and several others we
found at this place, who intend locating near by, but had not, we
believe, positively decided where. The colonel seemed  very
enthusiastic, and we certainly hope he may realize evee: expectation.  At 4.30 we started on our return for Omoa, 1but in
consequence of the character of the road over which we had to
pass, much df it being at the beach, and the surf rolling in very
heavily, concluded to stop for the night with the magistrate of
Cienagueta, Mr. Robinson, who placed before us for supper,
coffee, wheat bread and fried.Panot.  We are learning to eat
what is placed before us, and seldom ask questions. The Panot
we found to appear and taste much like the flesh of the Doreythe meat on its breast being quite an inch thick, and very tender.
We have tried t6 eat Panot since then, and to place ourselves
right and not to:appear to occupy a false position, will state that
they were invariably so tough that parboiling and hashing were
necessary to enable one to think of attempting to, digest it.
On the route between Omoa and the port it is necessary to
pass through two Carib villages.  Cienagueta and Tulian, and
to cross the Tulian and Marquez rivers, the first by fording and
the second by boat, leaving your horses behind. This river runs
from the MIarquez Lagoon, immediately, in rear of the port, and
flows into the sea less than half a mile below. rThere are also
several mountain streams of small size, all of which together
with the Tulian, have rapid currents over rocky bottoms and
the water very clear, cool and palatable. Thermometer 6 A. M,,
76; 12 -3., 80; 6 P. MI., 77.




48                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
JANUARY 20th.-At 7 this morning we aoain made a start for
Omoa, stopping on the way to examine a Coffee Estaite, or
Rliancho, which was the first we had seen. (For description see
"Productions of Honduras") WVe were informed on this trip that
the Chamlicon river could be navigated to within three miles
of San Pedro Sula. If it is so, why pass over the mountains?
We will make further inquiry on this point. The road for two
miles from Omoa was very sloppy, and when we reached town,
at 9.10, we looked as though we had just made an extensive trip
over a hitherto unexplored Louisiana swamp in the rainy season,
and had several times lost our way. Having quite a quantity
of clothing that rubbing as well as wetting will improve, several
of us repaired to the Omoa river to see what improvement we
could make in their appearance. We washed. and spread on the
rocks, and by the time the last was spread the first were ready
for the ironing room. In the afternoon, Dr. Gray, Dr. Ryan,
Rev. Mr. Pearce and Mr. Morris engaged a Dorey and started,
the first for lake Isabal, Dr. Ryan for Porto-Gordo, where he
left his family, and the Rev. Mr. Pearce and Mr. Morris for
Belize, via " Seven Hills."
The rest of us, except Dr. G. P. Prierson and Mr. Daniel
Swett, who will remain here, or endeavor to reach San Pedro
via the Chamlicon river, hope to get off to-morrow, taking the
mule and mountains as our mode of conveyance and route. Col.
H., Dr. F., Mr. D. S. and myself paid our respects to-day to the
Commandante of Omoa, Genl. Espanoza, by whom we were very
kindly received, and who expressed great satisfaction at the
prospect of our citizens emigrating to the Republic; making
known to us that land could be obtained gratis, and if we should
be so fortunate as to find an unclaimed gold mine, that the
authorities of the nearest municipality would cause to be suir



DIARY.                        49
veyed a certain distance north, east and west, of the point we
should designate, which would establish our claim. It is hardly
necessary to say we did not have any surveying done. Thermometer 6 A. M., 72; 12 M., 80; 6 P1'. M., 78..
JANUARY 21st.- At 9 o'clock this morning we were mounted
and off for the far famed San Pedro Sula, and reached the Rancho Grande, eighteen miles distant, at 3 P. M., where we had
the pleasure of meeting Mr. Reynaud, owner of the premises,
and Governor of the Circuit of San Pedro; and saw the operation of winnowing coffee to remove the husk, which is done by
the ordinary fan mill, which we found on examination to have
been made by Allen & Co., of New York. Here we saw coffee
in every stage, and were informed by the Governor that he has
forty-five hundred bearing trees, producing, he can not say how
much, but will know at the close of the season, as he is keeping
an accurate account of the crop as gathered.  (See productions
of Honduras.)  The residence at the Rancho is constructed in a
very substantial manner, of brick, plastered inside and out, and
covered with tiles. The plantation is in a bowl, surrounded by
mountains, and is said to be twenty-five hundred feet above the
level of the sea. The Rio Grande, about forty yards wide, clear
and cool from the mountains, flows by a short distance from the
house, and is easily forded, To-day has been cloudy with occasional showers, and though the thermometer indicates 77 deg. at
4 o'clock P. M., our feelings are decidedly in favor of fire, which
would be very comfortable.  Thermometer 6 A. M. 74, 12 M.
74, 6 P. M. 73~.
JANUARY 22d. —Left Rancho Grande at 7 this morning', reaclhing the foot of the mountains on the opposite slope at 9.10, and
moved along their base for a distance of fifteen miles throlugh
5




50                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
a beautiful avenue formed by the branches of the Cahoon Palm
that gracefully curve over the road, in many places entirely shutting out the sun's rays. Stopped at the village of Chiloma, on
the Chiloma river, for breakfast at 10.40.  We found here the
Umbrella China tree growing in perfection, which we never saw
ill Mississippi, though it is planted in Texas for its shade.  At
12.30 P. M. we were again in the saddle, and crossed the Rio
Blanco four miles from San Pedro, which we found to be forty
yards wide, very shallow, sandy bottom and water warm and very
unpalatable; the Thermometer indicating in the atmosphere 83~and in the water 89 deg., time 2.30 P. M. Trwo miles frem San
Pedro we crossed the Mermijo, fifteen yards wide, and about twelve
to eighteen inches deep-the same as the last two crossed —
water clear and bottom sandy.  Several fields of Corn were
passed by us, and a field of Cotton, entirely stripped of foliage.
Our journey terminated at 3.20, and we found ourselves in a place
where the houses did not prevent our seeing the town. Through
the kindness of Mr. Reynaud we were provided with an excellent
dinner, to which we did ample justice. Thermom. 6 A. M. 70;
12 i., 79; 6 P. h., 78.
JANUARY 23d.-We breakfasted at 1.1 A. M., though coffee
was served at 7, mounted our mules at 12, and accompained by
Maj. G. Malcolm rode around to inspect the country; following
the Comayagua road, running south from San Pedro, for half
a mile, at which point we left it, moving to the east-crossing
the Tipiaca two miles from town and following the same road tc
the Rio Blanco, four miles from town, beyond which the land is
claimed by Mr. Debrot, of Omoa. On our way back we passed c
cotton field which we were informed was without leaves three week,
ago, but is now in full foliage, though the genuine Ar'my wor:
is again at work and will soon have it stripped once more. ThE




DIARY.                        51
country over which we passed is very flat, with Cahoon the
prevailing growth, though the soil contained a very large proportion of sand. The rivers above named are quite small, being
from fifteen to twenty yards wide at the time we visited them,
and about two feet deep, with sandy bottoms, though the water
was not very clear nor cool, but palatable. We reached San.
Pedro in time for dinner at 5; the order of our meals will
in future be as follows: Coffee at 7, breakfast at II, dinner at
5. Thermometer 6 A. AI., 75; 12 ii., 781; 6 P. hr., 78.
JANUARY 24.-At 8.30 this morning we were again on the
way to continue our explorations, Maj. M. again accompanying
us. Our object to-day being to strike the Tacomiche river
immediately below the junction of the Tipiaca and Blanco, which
form it. The general direction of these rivers is south-east,
and their waters flow to the Chemlicon, the general direction of
which is north-east to the Gulf of Honduras. After passing
over the road pursued yesterday for two and a half miles, we
turned to the south-east, crossing more wet land than we expected to see, and passing over quite a large piece of ground.
covered with very coarse grass growing from three to four feet.
high. Our conjectures were that a swamp must be near, and.
though we had a guide and several men armed with the Machete:
to cut the way, our fears were soon realized; our horses moving
forward with difficulty, which increased till necessity compelled a.
return. On the way out, the animals we were riding fell, but rose
without our dismounting, and despite their exertions, fell again,
and being unable to rise we dismounted and waded out, when.
the course was changed further to the south, which we followed'
till satisfied we were on a large body of good land when we
struck for the Comayagua wood, which was reached two miles
from San Pedro. From this point several of the party returned to,




52                  A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
town, while Col. H., Capt. B., Dr. F. and myself concluded to
visit the Chamlicon river, said to be five miles distant.  On our
way we crosed the La Puerta, three miles from town, which is a
very small stream, and a few hundred yards beyond turned to
the left in order to follow the Comayagua road, the other crossing the mountains close by. Thie river where we struck it
is from seventy five to one hundred yards wide, with two and a
half feet water on the rapids at this point, and has all the
characteristics of mountain streams, being clear, cool and drinkable.  After enjoying the luxt'ry of a bath, we retraced our steps
toward San Pedro, meeting our Clef de cuzisine, whoml the Qolonel
had sent back to obtainl refreshments for the inner man. Seating
ourselves on the grass a hearty meal was soon made on eggs,
corn bread and beef  It may be well to state that thlis proved
to be the first and last time we had corn bread placed before
us duringl our stay in Spanish Honduras, and up to this time
have seen no preparation of flour since leaving Omoa.
After our meal, Col. II. and myself started for the mountains,
two and a half miles east of San Pedro, but the day being far spent,
with every prospect of rain, returned to our quarters. The distance from San Pedro to the Chamlicon by the Camayagua road is
seven miles; three miles of' the way being almost entirely level,
and could with little labor be made an excellent carriage road.
Beyond the "' Puerta" the road is very rocky for most of the
way to the river. The land seen to-day is generally better than
that Lseen yesterday, covered with cahoon and having several
naturul drains running through it.  At the Puelta musquitoes
annoyed us very much, though we were not troubled by them
yesterday nor to-day up to this time.  We have found bars unnecessary to our comfort at San Pedro, not having seen, felt or
heard a musquito at that place.  Thermometer 6 A. M. 312;
12 M. 82; 6 P.M. 7t8.




DIARY.                       53
JANUARY 25. —Our attempt to reach the Tacomiche yesterday proving unsuccessful, though it is reported to be only five
miles from San Pedro, we were again in the saddle this morning
at 8, to try another route, which we did by keeping a general
course to the southeast from San Pedro till we reached what
the natives call the Tipiaca mountain, about five miles from
San Pedro, and no river being in sight we deemed it best to return
and adopt some more certain method of accomplishing our
object. On our way this morning we passed an old plantation of 62 Cocoa trees quite full'of fruit. Over a considerable
portion of our route to-day the country presented the appearance of once having been in cultivation, and on making enquiry
concerning it, we received the assurance that such was the fact.
Why was the cultivation of this section discontinued by those
who burnt the bush and ate the produce of the soil perhaps a
century ago? The land examined to-day was found to be of
every character known to this country, except rocky; at times
covered with cahoon, and high and dry, with very rich soil; and
at other times lower and wet, with the same growth, when it
changes to a gravel sub-soil but a few inches below  the
surface, and at times to portions covered with heavy grass. We
have frequently been surprised to find so large an admixture
of sand where it was reasonable to expect but little, though
the growth even on such land was very heavy, and the cahoon
nearly always present in greater or less quantity. On our return to San Pedro we were much disposed to think the guide, who
has made two unsuccessful attempts to convey us to our point
of destination, unreliable, and it was determined to employ
another, who said he could find the river, if we would furnish him
with men to assist in cutting, and pay him if he accomplished his
object; if not, no pay. Many lime trees were found to-day,




s4:                A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
the fruit being quite as large as the lemons imported into the
United States.  The  natives being thirsty drank  from  a
water vine, a piece of which, four feet in length and three inches
in diameter yielded a pint of very palatable fluid, devoid
or any green or sappy taste, which quenched the thirst very
quickly. This morning was showery, and we were alternately
wet and dry, though we feel no inconvenience from it. Thermometer 6 A. M., 72i; 12 M., 81; 6 P. M., 73i.
JANUARY 26.-This morning we saw the first fog since leaving
Belize. At 12 M. Col. H. and myself, accompanied by Dr.
Scott, who has for seven years resided at San Pedro, visited the
site of old San Pedro, two miles south-west of the present town
of that name, which we foundjovergrown to such an extent that
we saw nothing more than the remains of what we were told
was the wall surrounding the place at the time of its destruction. We moved on to where the Rio de los Piedras issues
from  the mountains, and following its course for a mile we
crossed a stream known as Santa Anna, and at a distance of
two miles from here, following the base of the mountains, we
came to the.Mermijo, at the point where it comes from the
mountains. All these streams are clear, cool and very rapid,
although small. The San Pedro and Rio de los Piedras unite
about four miles from where the latter makes its exit from the
mountains, and not far below this the Rio de los Piedras unites
with the Mermijo, near where the latter crosses the road from
San Pedro to Omoa. Nearly all the country between San
Pedro~ and the mountains, on the west, has at some time been under.cultivation, but is now covered with undergrowth, except where
small clearings have been recently made. Thermometer 6 A.
M., 72; 12 M., 811; 6 P. M., 76.
JANUARY 27.-This morning, at 8.40, Messrs. Kane, Owen,




DIARY.                       55
Peak and Dr. G. A. Frierson left us on their return to Omoa,
the first two intending to extend their trip to the United States,
but soon to return, and the others to proceed to Belize for bagggage left there by the entire party.
William, our chef de cuisine, accompanied Mr. Owen to Louisiana, but expressed his determination to return, and thought he
would be able to bring others with him. Dr. F. and Mr.
D. S. not having made their appearance, we have written
to them  to make the  attempt via the  Zequisiesta, which
empties into the Chemblicon, and is stated to be navigable for
Dories to within  fourteen and a half miles of San Pedro,
whither we will send mules for them as soon as we hear of their
having left Omoa; the road being represented to be good. We
will take a rest to-day, and hope  to-morrow to be able to
visit the Zacomziche. Thermometer 9 A. M., 69; 12 M., 785;
6 P. M., 77.
JANUARY 28.-At 8.20 this morning our entire party was
again in the saddle, Maj. Malcolm  accompanying us, and we
were off for the Zacomiche, which was discovered yesterday,
crossing the Tipiaca two miles east of town, and taking a course
east by south, we reached the river at 12. 10, about seven miles
from San Pedro, and found it to be eight yards wide and three
and a half feet deep. This is the river we were told would be
navigated by a steamer to be brought out on the next trip of the
Tradewind.  Most of the land passed over was found to be
much the same as that already described. At the water's edge
we found musquitoes, but none as we approached the river, and
as singular as it may appear, we took a nap within twenty yards
of the water and were unmolested by them.  Several Iguanas
were seen to-day, the first we have found since leaving the Moho
in British Honduras. Most of the party engaged in fishing




hi6 6              A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
catching several cats and one of a kind known to the natives as
"Sleeping-fish," which was very much like the cat in appearance,
but having scales.
Captain Buckner took the guide with him and endeavored to
reach the mouth of the river, which was supposed to be close by,
but after going three miles, without success, gave it up and we
all returned to San Pedro as soon as he rejoined us. Thermometer 6 A. -I. 67: 12 r. 85; 6 P. nr. 81; 9 P..r. 75.
JANhuARY 29th.-This morning we accompanied Maj. Malcoln
to his kitchen garden, where kale, mustard, turnips, tomatoes,
snap-beans, okra, pumpkins and black-eyed peas, were found
growing and looking well. His cotton field was also visited, and
plenty of eggs found to produce another supply of worms, and
but a few days can elapse before they will be at work, and the
destruction of foliage is but a question of time, and a very short
time at that; notwithstanding, Maj. Malcolm  and many whose
fields have been stripped, still think they will make half a crop.
Thermometer 6 A. S. 71; 9 A. WI. 81; 12. 86; 3 P. M. 88; 6
P. M. 80; -9 P.. l78.
JANUARY 30.-To-day being showery and very disagreeable,
we kept within  doors.  In the evening, though  the Thermometer indicated 70 deg., we made a fire and sat near it with
great comfort. Thermometer 6 A. Mt. 71 deg. 9 A. Nr. 72 deg.
12 ir. 72 deg. 6 P. M. 70 deg. 9 P. ar. 671 deg.
JANUARY 31st. —The bad weather continuing, we made a
feeble effort at visiting on a small scale, but most of the time
kept our room, as rain fell at intervals during the entire day.
Thermometer 6 A. sr. 64; 9 A. 3r. 65 1-2; 12 fr. 69 1-2; 3 P. ia.
70; 6 P. r. 72 1-2; 9 P. 7. 70.
FEBRUARY Ist.-No rain this morning, though the atrnosphere is damp and chilly to such an extent that our fire is kept




DIARY.                        57
up, and with the party around, it reminds us of camp.  We
saw to-day Irish potatoes, grown here from  seed brought from
the States, which were of respectable size, but are said to be inclined to be watery, though the sweet potato does well, according
to report. By invitation we visited the field of Mr. -   Jack,
where the sarsaparilla was seen growing, though none had up to
this time been gathered.  Though there was some prospect at
an early hour this morning of a fair day, we have had repeated
showers. Thermometer 6 A. Ar. 65; 9 A. ir. 68; 12 AI. 70 1-2; 3
P. xi. 71 1-2; 6 r. i. 71 1-2; 9 rP. a. 70.
FEBRUARY 2d —A courier was sent to the gentlemen who
remained behind when we left Omoa, several days since; he
should be back to-day, and his failure to appear will necessitate
a trip to that place, to carry out the object for which he was
sent.'I'o our great astonishment, Mr. D. S., and Dr. F., and
two sons made their appearance this afternoon, havingl crossed
the mountains, on mules. As one of the riders weighs two hundred and forty pounds, he can best tell how  the trip was made,
though the mule would undoubtedly have something to say if
endowed with the power of speech, for his weight did not greatly
exceed the burden he had to carry. These gentlemen left Omoa
on last Wednesday, 29th ult., but were detained at the Ranche
by bad weather till this morning. Thermometer 6 A. 2r. 68 1-2;
9 A. Mi. 69; 12 mI. 72; 3 P. M. 74; 6 p. 1i. 72; 9 Pr. 7.,1.
FEBRUARY 3d.-A Dorey said to be drawing two feet, arrived
this morning at the village of Chemlicon, on the river of the
same name, within seven miles of San PeIro, loaded with freight
from Cienaguetan. We were told nina days were required to
make the trip; our efforts to obtain the particulars of the trip
were, however, entirely unsuccessful.  Colonel H., Dr. F., and
Mr. D. S., accompanied by Dr. Scott. who kindly offered his




58                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
services as guide, made a trip to the mountains west of San
Pedro, returning late in the evening drenched by rain which fell
heavily during the day.
This may not he the "rainy  season," but it is certainly a
season of rain, Thermometer 6 A. iM. 68 1-2; 9 A.  72. 2;12 xr.
75; 3 P, ir. 72; 6 P. -i. 77 1-2.
FEBRUARY 4th.-Our party explored the country to-day between San Pedro and the mountains west, finding some excellent
land between the Los Piedras'and Mermijo, though on the latter,
and for some distance from  its right bank it was found to be
very sandy. This exploration was made on foot, with compass
in hand, and though we had two,natives to use the machete
found the trip very fatiguing  and will not soon be caught
making a similar one. WVe returned to San Pedro at a late
hour, but the bath and change of clothing could not be deferred,
for we are well acquainted with the Agarrapata. This is a very
good place to describe this pest. It is nothing more than the
wood tick, called by some "seed-tick."  They are so small as
almost to require a magnifying glass to make them  visible, and
figures would fail to make their number known. Any one going
to the woods is certain to return with thousands of them. We
always adopted every precaution against them, such as tying
the pants close around the ancle and brushing off repeatedly with
a bunch of twigs.  We have seen the most iearful effects produced by them where these precautions were neglected. It is
said they are not troublesome for more than two months in the
year, but we were unable to ascertain what two months.  Perhaps the sixty days you are supposed to be absent from the place
were referred to. Ther mometer 6 A. am. 68; 12 m. 75; 6 p. a. 78'
FEBRUARY 5th.-C olonel H., Captain B. and myself endeavored to ascend the mountains to-day in order to get a view  of




DIARY.                        59
that portion of the valley of Sula, in which San Pedro is situated; our horses were used as far as possible, when we dismounted and began the ascent, walking till tired, resting and
again pushing on, which was repeated, though we did not succeed in reaching the top. An elevation was attained, however,
that gave us a magnificent view of the valley below, seemingly
stretching to the east for twenty miles and to the south to nearly
double that distance. But for the rain and clouds we would
have had a better view, but we were amply repaid for our toil.
Mr. D. S. had a chill to-day, which is pretty good evidence this
latitude can produce the "Bilious Intermittent."  Thermometer
6 A. M. 74; 12 M. 78; 6 P. i. 76.
FEBRUARY 6th.-We are still unable to exclaim, "Behold how
brightly breaks the morn," for rain is again falling, and the
heavens are entirely overcast. The rain continued during the
day with a short intermission at noon. Thermometer 6 A. Mi. 74;
12 r. 82; 6 r. i, 78.
FEBRUARY 7th.-A miserable day was this to the writer, as
the "Bilious Intermittant" culminated and he shivered. Perhaps he did not wish he was home! His bed was a blanket
spread on not a large quantity of shavings, which had a dirt
floor foundation. Why did'nt he go to the Hotel? Hotel! Let
us drop this subject. Mr. D. S. is now  quite well, but when
sick it required the united efforts of two individuals for fortyeight hours to secure a hide bottomed bedstead, for which it was
agreed seventy-five cents per month should be paid.  Thermometer 6 A. mI. 69.
FEBRUARY 8th. —Rain again to-day. Having heard of several
persons being down with chills, we arenaturally led to inquire
into the cause. Is it the rain, change of weather, heat, fatigue,
or is it the result of inalarious inflaences? Being unable to say,




60                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
we can only testify to the complaint beingr, if not the most
dangerous, the most disagreeable disease known to the human,family, and persons here not unfrequently have them of the quo*tidian type for a week at a time. All emigrants are requested
by Gov. Reynand to- meet at the Cavildo (Court-house) toalorrow morning, to hear read a translation of the concessions
made by the Puebla (town) of San Pedro Sula, for their benefit.
Information has reached here of the arrival of sixty-four persons
at Omoa, destined for this place, and quite a large number being
at Belize, also coming here.
FEBRUARY, 9th. —Notwithstanding we should  look for  a
chill to-day, visited the Cavildo, remaining but a short time, as
we have not only heard the concessions read, but have a copy in
the original, in our possession.
FEBRUARY 10th. —Thermometer 6 A. Ar. 67 1-2 deg. 12 x.
82-1-2 deg. 6 P. xi. 80 deg.
FEBRUAR    lth. -Thermometer 6 A. ri. 67 1-2 deg. 12 Ar. 83
deg. 6 P. zr. 77 1-2 deg.
FEBRUARY 12th.-Having kept quiet during  the past two
days, and no repetition of our chill, feel pretty safe for the present. All complained of having slept cold last night notwithstanding blankets and closed doors. Information was received
this morning of Mr. Peak and Dr. Frierson, who have arrived
at Omoa with the baggage and supplies of the party, will
come forward via the Chemlicon and Tequisiesta as soon as they
can make arrangements for so doing.  It is their intention to
brilng the freight to a point within fourteen miles of San Pedro,
from which it will be brought here by wagon, there being two
of those very convenient vehicles for the conveyance of goods at
this place, and plenty of oxen. Thermometer 6 A. _r. 64 1-2; 12
ir. 79; 6 P, ri. 70.




DIARY.                        61
FEBRUARY 13th.-To-day information was received that Mr.
P. and Dr. F., left Omoa several days since and ascended the
Chemlicon to the Taquisiesta,'when, in consequence of low
water and obstructions in the river, they *returned to the bar at
the mouth of the Chemlicon, there to remain until instructions
should be received from here. All were much disappointed at
this delay, as they have been without their Sunday clothes for
nearly six weeks. Thermometer 6 A. M. 74; 12 X, 80 1-2  (6
Pr M. M. 76.
FEBRUARY 14th.-It was decided this morning that Captain
Buckner and myself should take a Dorey and men at the ford of
the Chemlicon, seven miles south-east of here and proceed to the
bar of the river and assist the gentlemen in charge of the baggage,
they having had a serious time of it since leaving Omoa. Our
preparations were hastily made, and consisted of blanket, bar,
mackintosh, india-rubber coat and jerked beef; our dependence
for bread being the plantain, a quantity of which we intended
taking with us from the crossing, and to replenish our stock as
needed at the various plantations we expected to pass.  The
Captain and myself left San Pedro at 10 A.  A., and at 11.30
reached the village of Chemlicon, and presented the letter kindly
furnished by Gov. Reynand, and which expressed the desire
that we should be furnished with two men and a Dorey for the
trip. Our main dependence was a man named John, who it
was ascertained after considerable delay, was in San Pedro, consequently we must await his return.  On our way back to recross the river we visited a hot sulphur spring, not more than
thirty yards from the river's bank, the temperature of which we
could not ascertain, having left our thermometer at San Pedro,
but it was evidently very high, steam  beingl  distinctly visible
even at nootn-day as the water bubbled up.  WV- e will endeavor to




6 2                A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
visit this spot again, and get a bottle of water for analysis.
Wrhen we recrossed the river, John was on hand, but of course
could not think of making a start till morning, this being the
natives' peculiar habit in all such cases, and having sent our
horses back, will remain here till morning, at which time there is
fair prospect of our getting an early start. Thermometer 6 A. M.
73; 12 ir. 76; 6 P. At. 78.
FEBRUARY 15-A- t 6.30 we were off; and although we expected
to have John only, or two men at most, find a boy in the boat
whose duty will be to use a pole. At 7.40 a point was passed
known to the natives as Juarlomo, though nothing was in sight
save a girl washing clothes; and at 8.15 an island, and at 8.30 another neither of which contained more than three or four acres;
and at 8.45 another, about'l 0 acres in extent, the growth-on which
is principally willow. The mouth of the Tacomiche was pased at
11, and the Cow pen reached at 11.30, (This point is known
as the Cow pen, because it was used in years past as
a place for assembling cattle for the use of Mahogany cutters.)
Nearly opposite this place one of the boatmen owns a plantation
and the boat was stopped there in order that a supply of plantains might be laid in for the voyage.  The Cow pen is situated
at the base of quite a large hill, and the bank is from eight to
ten feet high. We pushed out at 12 Ai., and at 2 passed a
piece of ground on our right that had the appearance of an immense clearing, covered with high grass, and hardly a tree on it,
and appeared to contain several hundred acres. The same character of country was seen a few miles below, but the patches did
not seem so extensive. John informed us that though this ground
is covered with grass, and peat, it is not swampy. WVant of
time prevented our making such an examination as we desired, but
at 2.45 we went ashore to examine, by climbing a tree, this peculiar




DIARY.                        63
and not uninteresting country, and to ascertain to what extent a.
kind of willow existed that was occasionally seen. Over thousands
of acres the grass extends with here and there an isolated willow
the bank at the waters edge being four feet high.  Was this district of country cleared by man; and if so, why is it not now
made to produce something for his support?  For several
miles we passed through,country that' presented much the same
appearance, the grass being on either shore-the bank three feet
high and river fifty yards wide. At 3 P. Ni. we left the main
river and entered a'cut off" at our right.  (This cut off was
made by a raft in the river a mile or two below, which entirely
prevents navigation by the main stream,) we passed over a foot
fall in entering the "cut off" which at this place is ten yards wide
eight feet deep, and has a current' of about sevenb miles an hour.
The utmost skill was necessary on the part of the boatmen to
avoid running into the bank and against fallea trees, or sunken
logs, and to prevent our being dragged into the water by overhanging limbs. At 3 P. aI., a piece of low marshy ground was:
reached, and an occasional Mangrove seen-depth of water four
feet. As good camping ground is not easily found, availed ourselves of the first that offered and at 5 stopped for the night.
Thermometer, 6 A. a. 71: 12 3i. 72: 6 P. at. 73.
FEBRUARY 16th.-Left camp this morning  at 6.30. The
stream here is about twenty yards wide, but as we advanced,
would at times become narrow, and in the course of the morning we passed over portions not more than four yards wide, and
over several miles that did not exceed six in width, and a cur_
rent varying from  five to seven miles an hour. During the
time we have been in this stream, no paddling has been necessary except for the purpose of avoiding obstructions.  At 9 we
made our exit from  this "cut off"' and again entered the main




6 +                A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
river, where but little current was found. Width of river fifty
yards and bank twelve to fifteen feet high for a short distance,
when it falls to six and eight feet. For several miles we passed
through country similar to that seen in the cut off, and covered
with high grass and willow, and being miles in extent from the
river as well as along its banks. At 1.30 we stopped at a plantation, cut some sugar cane —picked up some lemons and again
moved on.  (When the word plantation is used, do not think it
refers to thousands of acres, as they vary in size from one to ten
acres.)   Distant mountains have been visible on our left during
the entire day, but at this place they come to the water's edge.
While passing through the cut off we saw thonsands of Iguanas,
and many birds of all kinds known to this section, except ducks
of which but few were seen; and alligators constantly plunging
into the water or swimminog aloIng the bank.
At 5 o'clock, our boatmen beginning to talk about calmp, a
promise of tobacco if we reached the bar that evening induced
them to keep the paddles in motion, and our trip ended precisely
at 6 o'clock. Having made the trip in 26 1-2 hours running time
We left San Pedro in the rain-slept in the rain last night —sat
in the rain to day from  time of leaving camp to 2 P. -I., and we
are cold and disagreeable in the extreme. The fires that were
visible as we approached the bar had a very comfortable appearance, and the chilly wind blowing fiom the sea caused us to seek
their warmth at a double quick.  We found a norther prevailing
at the time of reaching the bar, and a very heavy sea running and
breaking on the beach with tremendous force, which renders it
impossible for boats to cross the bar and to go to Cienagueta.
In crossing the bar one of the boats containing  baggage was
swamped, wetting all it contained, and ruining many articles. A
courier left San Pedro on the morning of the 14th for this place,




DIARY.                        65
but has not yet arrived, though he expected to come through in
one day. He is doubtless at Cienagueta, awaiting a change
in the weather, which will probably not occur for several clays.
Thermometer, 6 A. M. 68:12 A. Mr. 72 1-2: 6 P. al. 79.
FEBRUARY 17th.-Rain again this morning —wind continuing,
and sea as rough as yesterday.  All seem  to be in doubt as
to the best course to pursue, and find it difficult to decide
whether it would be best to try the river as far as the " Cow
Pen," (beyond which there are five shoals with only one foot
water on them) or to return to Cienaqueta and try the mountains. By 9 A. Nr. the wind changed to the north-west, with an
occasional shower, and  the  sun showing himself at noon,
all hands engaged in drving wet clothing and other effects,
which hlad been nearly completed on the previous day by
Messrs. P. and F. It having been decided to try the river, preparation was at once commenced for the trip; two dories were
engaged for the purpose, one of which when loaded will draw
twenty inches and the other sixteen. This movement will be
carried out unless information is received from San Pedro to
stop it. Nothing heard of the courier. Thermometer 6 A. Ar.,
68; 12 M., 71; 6 P. M., 70.
FEBRUARY 1Sth.-Rain again this morning, with heavy clouds
at the north and west which present an angry appearance. Our
blankets were wet again last night by the rain beating through
our Cahoon shelters. After considerable exertion and great
waste of patience we succeeded in making a fire, which we find
as necessary for warmth as for culinary purposes, and perhaps
more so, as the stock of provisions is not in great variety and
the services of a Soyer is not needed in the kitchen. At 9.30
wind changed to the south, with rain falling heavily, and but
little prospect of abatement. The natives cooked a Baboon to



66                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
day, but we know nothing of its flavor. We have eaten Conch,
Iguana, and other things that did not present a very inviting
appearance, but no Baboon.  At 1 P. I. wind changed to the
west —the rain ceased, and we again made a fire and dried, or
attempted to dry what had again received a wetting. At night
the clouds disappeared, as usual. The sea continues very rough,
and the roaring of the surf as it lashes the beach might be
heard for several miles. Thermometer 6 A. Ar., 67; 12 M., 69; 6
P. M., 69.
FEBRUARY 19th.-To our great joy the sun rose clear this
morning, and we feel anxious to make a start, but must wait for
men from  Cienagueta. It is always delay with these people,
who have no idea of the value of time, exceptl as a means of
measuring distance from one point to another. The sea being
smoother this morning, a boat started for Omoa for provision
for the men in charge of the effects of passengers who
came by the last trip of the Steamer. Their effects are in bad
order, having been wet for several days. Our individual baggage was returned from this place to Omoa, by the boat, as we
expect to leave San Pedro immediately on our arrival there, for
the United States. The courier that left San Pedro on the
morning of the 14th reached here at 10.30 A. m., having been
detained at Cienagueta by bad weather, as we expected. The
men expected from Cienagueta arrived in time to load the boats
and be off by 1.45, P. x,. They are to receive for transporting
three thousand pounds of freight from here to the " Cow Pen,"
a distance of sixty-seven miles, forty-three dollars, payment to
be made in currency, which is not greenbacks. The river was
ascended for about eight miles, and camp pitched for the night.
Thermometer 6 A. Ar., 65; 12 M., 73; 6 P.M., 71.
FEBRUARY 20th.-At 6 this morning we were again on the




DIARY. 6!
way, which is an early start for these people, though we should
have been off an hour or more earlier. The bank at this place
is three feet high, with plenty of Cahoon, and soil exceedingly
rich.  At 7 the heavens were overcast with " Mackerel Sky"
which is a very good sign of rain, and the growling of a Baboon
which was heard before we left camp, was pronounced by one of
the boatmen a certain indication of "-falling weather."  At
7.55 a point was passed where a raft will soon be formed, as the
passage is only tell yards, while the stream is seventy-five yards
in width; fallen trees having nearly closed it. The large boat
got across the first log that has retarded our progress, at 8.40,
when a line was taken ashore and in a few minutes she was
off. By 9 the sky was perfectly clear, which was cheering, as
we have no tarpaulins with which to cover our effects, and if
they again get wet it will be a more serious undertaking to dry
them thlan was the case at the bar. At 11 the plantation was
reached where we obtained lemons on our down trip, and we
again stopped to lay in a supply of plantains, lemons and sugarcane. Our large boat stuck on a log at 3 Pi. I., but was not
detained more than five minutes —the men taking water and
dragging her off. In consequence of our being near the grassy
region, and the terminus of Cahoon growth on this side of the
" cut off," stopped at 4 and pitched camp, where it will be
necessary to cook rations for two days, as we will soon be in a
country where it will be almost impossible to find a camp.
To-morrow  we will be in the cut off, when the work of the trip
will begin. Thermometer 6 A. M., 60; 12 M., 76; 6 P. D., 74.
FEBURARY 21st. —We are afloat this morning at 5.30, which
is an improvement on yesterday's start. A heavy fog hangs
over the river and it is quite cool. The cut off was entered at 9
A. M., the boat occupied by Captain B. and myself going ahead,




68                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
as we have the pilot. The boats are all provided with poles and
paddles, the first being constantly used after we left the
river.  Our boat camped at 5.40, near a place where the current
was very swift, which point was not reached by the other boats;
the large one camping three-fourths of a mile below us, and the
cedar boat lower down. Thermometer 6 A. AI., 63; 12 I., 80;
6 P. ir., 78.
FERBUARY 22d.-The large boat reached our camp at 6.40
this morning, and stopped to prepare provision for the day.
The cedar boat is not in sight, yet we are not anxious concerning it, as the men in charge have shown great energy, and one
of them is the best boatman of the party. At 7.20, all hands
havino breakfasted we were again on the way. At 10.40 we
reached our camp of the first night going down. Considerable
detention was caused at 12 mr. by the large boat getting across
another log, which occurred again at 12.45. This log had to be
cut in order to effect a passage. We are making very slow
progress against current, logs, stumps, vines and the overhanging branches of trees. At 3.20, our pilot finding we were in a
lagoon, and consequently out of our course, it became necessary
to turn back a mile in order to re-gain the right direction. We
had hoped to be out of this fiat country and once more among
Cahoon, before night, but now think there is little chance of our
doing so. At 5 P. M. the large boat grounded, and was relieved
by all hands taking to the water and manning the gunwales
Canp was pitched this evening at 5.30, in a very disagreeable
place, the cedar boat being a short distance ahead and the large
boat about one hundred yards below us. Thermometer 6 A. is.,
63; 12 m., 79k; 6 P. x. 76.
FEBRUARY 23d.-6 o'clock found us on the way this morning,
and we think from our locality we are about two miles from the




DIARY.                         69
main stream.  A t 6.15 the big boat was stopped by a log which
it was found nec cssary to cut under water, and was again halted
by a similar cause at 6.45, in a very rapid current. At 7.20 we
reached a point where the river is almost entirely closed by a
large tree lying across it, the only passage being a circular one
worn by the current around the roots, which the large boat was
exactly large enough to pass. At 8.05 all three boats were at
the mouth of the cut-off, and in half an hour entered the Chamlicon, over a very rough place, tied up- to rest for a few minutes, and again moved on. While our boat was being quietly
poled along, at 10.50, the boy leaped into the water, and after
a momentary scuffle, rose to the surface with a turtle weighing
about eight pounds. We could see no indication of anything of
the kind, and the water was not clear enough for the bottom to
be seen. This beats any fishing w o have seen, and proves a de.
cided independence of hook and line. Our boat reached the
Cow-pen at 4 P. M., the large boat at 5, but the cedar boat did not
come up to-night. Thermom., 6 A. AM., 63; 12 Hr. 79; 6 P.Mi. 76.
FEBRUARY 24th.-Captain Buckner and myself left Camp
this morniug for San Pedro, at 6.30. A note was discovered
here last evening written by Col. SH., who was here on Saturday (22d), which states the distance to San Pedro to be twelve
miles. For several miles after leaving the Cow-pen our route
lay over a rolling country; after which we came to a piece of
prairie land with here and there a clump of small live oaks. This
piece seemed to contain about two hundred acres, and is covered with coarse grass from two to three feet high. This being
a high, dry, and rolling piece of ground, we asked ourself the
question, was this ever in cultivation?  This trip will long be
remembered by Captain B. and myself, as we left camp with
baggage enough for a pack-mule of small dimensions, and though




70                 A TR1I TO HONDURAS.
we slung it to a pole, and tried the shoulders, and this hand and
that, keeping step with military precision, we failed to lessen its
specific gravity. En.route, the Blanco and Tacomiche were
waded, the first two feet, and the second one foot deep, and we
reached San Pedro at a late hour in the afternoon, where terminated one of the most fatiguing trips in which it was ever our
misfortune to engage. Distance from S. Pedro to Cow-pen, thir.
teen miles, and from Cow-pen to bar, sixty-seven; total distance
eighty miles. We will have occasion to, refer to the river again..
Thermometer, 6 A. M., 66; 12 ~M. 82; 6 P. nr. 78.
FEBRUARY 25th.-A party is on the road between San Pedro
and the Cow-pen, cutting the way wide enough for wagons,
which is necessary to be done in a few places.  Col. H. is with
them to point out where certain advantageous changes may be
made, as he examined the road a few days since. Thermometer,
6 A. M. 70; 12 M. 82; 6 P. M. 72.
FEBRUARY 26th.-As we expected, the man engaged yesterday to go to the Cow-pen for our baggage did not get off till
this morning. Extra payment induced an earlier start than they
are in the habit of making, and exacted the promise to be back
this evening. He may arrive before morning and enable us to
get off as we desire-but, patience! a "We will see what we will
see." Anative was found last evening secreted in the house of
an immigrant, and was tried, sentenced and punished by 12 lM.
to-day-receiving one hundred strokes with  stout tamarind
switches; in addition to which he will be required to work for
the public a given length of time. Mardi Gras has been in
operation here for the past two weeks, and on Monday last the
Trudor sports should have begun, which are carried to a considerable extent in Brazil by throwing flour on each other, and
by throwing against the person their waxen bottles filled with




DIARY.                       71
scented water. We saw no flour used in that or in any other
manner, but a few persons used a small compressible metal bottle, throwing the water by squeezing the bottle. The individual
who went for our baggage, returned this evening, which is wonderful indeed; but the person engaged to carry it to Omoa says
he cannot start till day after to-morrow. We will endeavor to
remove every obstacle to his going. Thermometer 6 A. 2A. 69;
12 x. 82; 6 P. M. 70.
FEBRUARY 27th.-Our baggage is ready, but not until the
sun was an hour high did the party engaged to  carry it make
his appearance. He came to get money with which to purchase
rations, Mr. D. S. having promised to feed him on the road, and
also raised the price he at first charged, from two dollars to two
dollars and fifty cents. Twenty-five cents being given him to
procure rations, the work of tying on two trunks was commenced,
three persons being engaged in it, which was completed to their
satisfaction in half an hour. Ropes always have to be furnished
for this purpose by the owner of baggage. Mr. Lucius Middlebrook and Mr. D. S. made a start at 8.10, and the baggage
man at 8.30; we leaving San Pedro at 9.45, and overtaking
the other gentlemen before they reached the mountain, the ascent
of which was begun at 2.25 and terminated at Rancho Grande,
at its foot, without accident, at 5.15 P. of.
The following being posted at Rancho G(rande, is copied for
the benefit' of " all whom it may concern."
For ranging beast per night........    6 cts 
For use of bed with net (no bedding is furnished, C. S.).. 50
without net.........25
One meal at regular meal hours.....  O37
After 7 at night, each meal, each person..........50
One cup of coffee, with biscuit................12




i72               A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
Those who do not wish to occupy beds, may have the free use
of: the Hall.
(Signed)  REGINO  PREO, Proprietor.
FEBRUARY 28.-At 6 this morning, we again mounted our
mules and moved in the direction of the coast, congratulating our-'selves' on the fact of this being the last day over this miserable
road. The day proved cloudy and without rain, which made
the trip much more pleasant than would have been the case under a clear sky. We reached Omoa at 2.10, and the Judge's
dinner hour being 4 P. w. we repaired to the Omoa river to
exterminate the last agarrapata.
FEBRUARY 29th.-We engaged passage, and embarked on
schooner Omoa, bound for Belize, at 1.15. During the afternoon
and that night hardly a breath of air stirred, and we could not
tell whether we were moving, Mr. D. S. has another chill, and
we can only hope he will be as fortunate as on a former occasion,
and have but one.
MARcH lst.-No breeze to-day except of the most gentle
character, and we are yet a long distance from our destination.
The sun again disappeared beneath the horizon without our seeing Belize, though the trip is often made in twelve honrs.
MARH!U 2d.-Belize is in sight this morning, and we came to
anchor at 12.30. A customhouse officer came aboard ilmmediately, and permitted us to go ashore at once.  We " put up "
at Brewer's Hotel, Captain T. C. Brewer, proprietor. It affords
us pleasure to be able to say the captain is an ex Confed. anc a
gentleman,, and that you will always find the Table d'Hite supplied with;the best the market affords, and at reasonable rates.
The sleeping apartments are neat, airy and comfortable. Patronize him if you visit Belize, and you will not go away dissatisfied.




DIARY.                         73
MARncre  3d. —Jas. M. Putnam Esq.,i'agent. f9r.Messrs, Young,
~lIoedo & C.o, extede, i       ion aton  to us to,mpany him
to the Moho river, or rather.the. ":Cattle Landing,"- two miles
(niorth o f the moiuti  ffhat river, for which  placehe expects to
start this evenin  with i' the steamer Enterprise, belonginc to the
irm mentoned, aid will' c'Pry down a number of persons.who:arrived on thie last steamet fronm  New Oreans.. Wee made our
prepa.ation for;  going, but the vessel did not make.her appearance during the day.
M A ~:RCHE-  4thl.-t is ascertained that the Enterprise is aground
at the"'tul' Oeir,';ivhch is a water connection.between, the:belize river and the Ba.. T[Se stea'mei had been in the river
foi some tinie unde~rgoing repairs, and cotld only enter the Bay
by the route namned, onu account of a- bridge spanning the river
inlitown] Quite a number of gentlemen wbio were waitin. here'for her, aire goneithis Illorlnino to tender their services in getting
hlel off. T'lherinom. 6'A. r. t79; 12 i2. 83; 6 Pi. x. 79.
MARtI 5th. —The "Enterprise" succeeded in getting off the
bar this morning and reached her anchorage in the harbor at 7'.20
A. -. The'; Trade-wind "will sail on the 7th, and we have ablandoned the trip to t'he Moho, as it is two late for us to make it
and return in time for the steamer, the distance being ninety
miles.  W~e paid our respects this morning to his ExcellencyS
Gov. Longdon, and spent an hour both pleasantly and profitably
with that gentleman.  Having been informed of a grant made
to an American. Company, of an extensive piece of country
lying between Monkey and Deep rivers, we made inquiry of his
Excellency concerning it and found it was not as we had heard.
The "Enterprise " sailed this evening at 6, with a large coinpaany. Thermnometer  6 A. Ar., 77; 12 1., 81; 6 Pr... 6.
MARcii Gtlh.-Several gentlemen on their way to the States




74                 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.
farrived at Belize this morning from San Pedro. They informed
us that a party had visited the Ulua river at its nearest point to'San Pedro, eighteen miles, and that they reported six feet water
to the bar of that stream. How they arrived at.that conclusion
vwe are unable to say, as we were not told they descended the
river. We remember distinctly that, before we descended the
Chemlicon it was reported to have two and a half feet at its
lowest stage. Thermometer 6 A. M., 77; 12 M., 80; 6 r. r. 79.
MARCH 7th.-The wind has been blowing briskly from-the
-east for several days, and we anticipated rough weather on the
trip, but having made every preparation for the voyage, hope to
pass the time more comfortably than from New Orleans here.
The " Trade-wind" weighed anchor at 12 x., and we are off for
the land of Leafless trees. At 1.25, in consequence of roughness
of the sea on the "outside.-" cast anchor and remained here till
morning. Thermometer 6 A..,.77; 12 xm., 81; 6 P. 3i., 78.
MARCH 8th.-Anchor was weighed this morning at 6, and
we are. again on our way. In a few hours we were useless to
ourselves, and of no service to any one, and might have been
found occupying the upper berth in No. 9, which we kept not
only to-day, but the next, and the next.
M.ARCIH 11th.-We are able. to be up to-day, but feel as
though we had passed through a severe attack of sickness. We
think a roe herring would be good —none to be obtained —cranberry jelly —none within reach. "Waiter, have you any. mackerel?" "I believe it is all gone, sir, but will see." "Mackerel, sir!"
"'Ah, thank you."  Better mackerel we never ate, and a good
breakfast was made though the quantity eaten was very small.
Tried a cigar, but succeeded in making a very small quantity of
-ashes. Took a chew, nauseating  weed! how can any one use
it? We retire to our room, lie down, and endeavor to decide




DIARY.                        75
which would be worse as a punishment for a person who is liable
to sea-sickness-a compulsory sea faring life, the penitentiary,
or decapitation....
MXARCH 12th. —Crossed the bar at 9.30 A. M., and reached
New Orleans at 10 r. ~i., remaining on board till morning.
MARCH 13th.-By 12.30 baggage was delivered, and we are
busy getting ready for the Jackson cars, which are to leave at 4
P. H. instead of 7, as was the case a short time since. We
succeeded in making a start, and will reach " Old Warren," at
10.30, on the morning of March 14th, 1868.








BRITISH,'HONDURAS.
It is singular, but true, that few perosons lwho lhave not
visited Belize, have any  rell defined or correct -ideas of that.
place. Of all the passengers on the Tlradewind when we went
over, lthere being( more than a hundred, only two or three
persols, who had visited the country, had any other idea of
the place thnll that the houses were rudely constructed, and
1lie principal portion of the population about as rude as the
buildings.'We confess our surprise was great, when first we
caught sight  of tlhe town, at night, but greater was our
surprise, when we viewed it in the morning, and.found that it.
extended alotng the shore for a distance of more than a mile,
with well buile houses and pali trees scattered' here and there,
wavingl their umbrella like tops. to the breeze, and relieving the
monotonous white of the buildings by their foliage, presenting a
very beautiful and firy-like scene.   The~ town has a width of
less than half a mile, with a Mangrove swamp extending  along
its rear, and is drained by the Belize River, which places the,iorthern end in an island made by the water of the river passing
through the "haul over' six miles from to wtn. -There is a canal;running the entire lengthl ot the place, and in rear of it, which is
twenty-five feet wide, piled on either side, and spanned by several
ison bridges:'ih cstreets are of good width, withoutsidewalks,
anid are kept scrupulously clean.  No Watter howhard it may
rain or low windy it may be, ther e'jno mud in the one case, nor
dust; in theother, as the streets are madg of sand! and.smnall gravel,




1 8                  9BRITISH HONDURAS.
and are so hard and smooth as to present the appearance of cement or concrete walks.'The Customhouse is an excellent building, and has a beautiful wharf, close by; the market house,
though not large, is constructed of iron, and the bridge which
spans the river is a very substantial structure, though built of
wood. The houses are from  one to three stories high, and are
constructed of brick, frame, and a few of corrugated iron; and are
covered principally with slate, tile and iron,   Most persons do
business on the lower floor and reside above, where may be found
apartments as neatly constructed and as elegantly furnished as
at any other place we can name. The merchants of Belize are
able to drive their business, and not let their business drive
them, for at 4 o'clock r.  l. every store of any pretensions is
elosed, with a promptness that caused us to ask if it was in accordance with law, and were informed it was simply a custom.
(Happy merchants, thought we, if you do not do business on
twelve months' time. If you lived in the United States you
would think slavery still in existence, as with us there is
certainly  no  class of men  who  are worked harder than
the merchants.)  There are six churches; two Episcopal, one
Methodist, one Baptist, one Catholic and' one Presbyterian. All
very neat and large for a place the size of Belize; the Methodist
being very handsome indeed. We will endeavor to give a short.
tlescription of it. The corner stone was laid by. Gov. Austin,
November 3d, 1864. The building is constructed of brick,. with'slate roof, and covers a surface of about 50x100 feet, and has two
floors, the lower one with ceiling about fifteen feet high, which
is used.s a school-room, and the upper for Divine service;:a stair-case running from the outside of.the building, being the
motde of reaching it. The pews are of Mahogany, and the pulpit
is of the same material; large,'and circular in form, with a hand



BRITISH HONDURAS.                    79
some lamp on either iide' bithe cushion and two in rear. In rear
of the pulpit are three tablets, six feet high and three in width,
those at the sides' containing the lPen Commandmenlts, and that in
the centre the Apostles Creed. Gothic windows of green glass occupy nearly the entire width of the buiilding, at the end where the
pulpit is situated, and on either side of the room  double gothic
windows of colored glass, with circular windows above them,
extend from floor to ceiling', which is a gothic vault, with a base
one half the width or the building, and from  which two arches
gracefully curve to the walls.'rhe ceiling is painted white, and
is relieved by strips of mahogany, several inches wide, running
from base to apex, at intervals of about three feet. Five chandeliers with three lights each, are suspended fromn  the roof, and
eight lamps at the walls, four on either side.  We found by
calculation that the floor would hold four hundred  and fifty-six
persons, and the gallery one hundred and eight.  We attended
service here at night, two hundred or more of the colored population being present, and only three white persons, that we could
see, and we never saw a more quiet or attentive congregation.
The moment we appeared at the door, wae were politely conducted to a seat, and every attention shownl that could anvwhre
be given.
iThere is considerable business dnlle at Belize, though we are
inclined to think from the appearance of stocks in store that too
iheavy a preparation has been made for the immigrants' accommodation. There are few roads around the town, and not,pany
in the country generally, transportation being carried on with
boats and pack-mules.  A boat is almost as indispensible to an
inhabitant of this place as a carriage or buggy is with us, and
they seem to have exhausted their skill and ingenuity inl their
constDuction-some. of them being very artistically and elegantly




.80(                  13llBRITISH HONDURAS.
made.  Thlere are several kinlls of boats, the most important
being: the "Dorcey" and "Pitpan." The first is'shaped like a
ship's boat, and sharp at both ends, and the second is very long
for its widthl and is used for navigating   shallow  water.  l'hese
boa.ts are made o a single piece o f wood, and  are what wc
would call "canoes, or dug-outs."
Concerning the laws it is hardly necessary to say anythiiog, a'
-they are Eniglislt.  Suffice it to say, that, here law prevails, aln
this is one of the most orderly communities we lhave ever visited
L A NA   D S..Those who have followed us this far wiil be able to form
pretty correct idea of the soil, and its location, and only a, fel
words are necessary onl this point. T''he idea prevails that ther
is very little thin land, which is not the case, as we not utnfri
quently f'ound clay at a depth of eight inches, and much  lan
containing too large a proportion of sand.''he cahoon palir
which is received as a sure indlclication of rich  land was. foun
growing on soil both wet and dry, rich and poor. That there
high land in British  Honduras cannot be questioned, but it
not on the coast, nor is it on the rivers within  fifteen or tweni
miles- of the coast,' anywhere south of Beliz6 that was visited I
us, except at'All Pines' and ISeVen Hills,'-'and'we wereinform(
the bet:lands- could be found'in- that:par't of tlie'ciloiw.  V
exarilneI the lainds on the rivers;'and as -far' as exaniined, th,
are generally flat;:and'present every indicatih': of being  subje
to ov erflow.l' We'foUrid high giround on:" t:e Middle River a
Golden-stream,'and have' no'doubt'thero l;is:'a.ridge'of "land 1:
tween all:-these -rivers tllhat is -::above'o'erfloW;, btt wh'at  is




BRITISH HONDURAS.                     81
extent, and what is the character of. the country between those
points and the rivers,; or the coasti
M  I.v -F. S
The rivers of the colony examined ly.bys.are truly beautiful
streams, almost entirely without obstructions, and generally.very
deep.: The' Golden-stream,  Rio-Grande, and Moho might be
navigated for twenity: miles at least, by the Mississippi. River
steamer General Quitman, when once over the bar,, and at high
tide she would have no difficulty in passing that poitt,;.
BEPTILES AN"D INS'ECTS.
During our stay in British Honduras, we saw but two snakes
one of which was killed by IDr. F. on the Golden-stream,: and the
otherl we saw at All Fines; the first being unknown to' us, and
the second a.garter snake.  Mosquitoes, -sand - flies alnd bottle
flies, except when ithe sea breeze prevails- are very:numelrolusa nd
iinoying.  The first is an old enemy, and the second not unknown in this country, but the  third  belongs to  a different
atitude-Nwe wvill describe it. In size it:is almost the samelas the
urley ga-t,-and putures te es the fles, usually withonuticausing pain,?avwng:~sjitp mari  asmall -redt spot of Wool'drawn to' the- outer
iyer o-f the skin.., For eighlteen or twenty-four -lhourl,this does
ot annoy, but at about that time, an iJtching:, sensation 1'iS' pronieed, and you scratch continriully,   hea:he hands swell. consid-ably,! presentiing.,a. very,.uuaatural, appea:rance.-'; %'We' werertunately. told to puncturei thosei spots.a  sioon.-as.! diseo.veredl -'ess out the blbp.d and bathe,, with,-salt water, which was, done,
id no unpleasant results followed their., bite.. We have-seen
undreds. of these bites-on Athe hands of. a single individual.
nts are very numerous.and,,destruc~tive to gardens.  House-?s;"so' familiar..tous, are here almost unknown.




82                   BRITISH HONDURAS.
FSUITS_
The "orange lemon, lime, plantain, bahanai, guava, pine-apple,
cocoa-nut, and we might add all the fruits of the' tropics, in their
sedCso' On.
VEIGETAB LES
Much the samie as with us, and, it addition the yam, yampa,
casava,' coco or malanga,, and others of less importance. The
yani is very muchli ke our sweet potato in appearance, and
grows to a large'size, frequently weighing ten or fifteen pQouds;
and when boiled, very closely r6sembles the Irish potato. The
yampa is also a root, but does niot:attain the size of the yam,
and is in taste a -medium between the Irish and sweet potato.'The casava and malanga are also roots, the first of which grows
to the weight of four or five pounds and has already been
described: and thle second to the size of our Irish potato, and is
the nearest approach to that vegetable of all we hanve named.
Corn is grown, and according toreport, two crops are raised
in one year. We were shown some of this grain at Seven Hills;
the ears'being of -medium  size and fullto the ends. It is very'
farinaceous and is early attacked by weevil, that in'a short time
leave, nothing'but husk.'.Many persons claimed that not only
two drops a year ean:;be',:-raised; but sixty bushels an acre to the
crop. We'saw  nothing that promised'a larger return than
fifteen bushels' but we did not measure eit'hler land or corn.
Of rice we saw'some that was very fine. Two crops a
year' are' also claimed for this. We are satisfied this is a very
fine country for its producti'on, and that the vield will be
both large in quantity andexcelent'in quality.




BRITISH HONDURAS.                 83
TXI-IMEA.-7BROMA.  C.&C O.A..
This tree, from the fruit of which the chocolate of commerce
is made, we did not see growing in British Honduras, but heard
of one south of Belize, and'of a patch of twenty or more on the
Belize River. Parties who have tried it say they did not succeed
well with it.
Did not see a'ftree growing in the colony. A gentleman ofr
my acquaintance said he did not believe there was a tree in
British Honduras, b4ut. was  told there was one at Corosal. We
know of no reason why both coffee and cacao will not grow here
equally as well as in Spanish Honduras, and believe if proper locations are selected and the necessary care and attention are.bestowed they- EWill' succeed.'
DOgESTIC.AI'A.LS.
Of horses, mules, cattle, hogs and sheep, there are very few in
the countryy: Spanish Honduras and Guatemala being depended on as the sources of supply.
GO' V=N H AN:    TT OiFFIQC  S..
Hlis Excellency, Lt. Gov. Jas. Robt. Longdon,  Private
Secretary, Fredk. Harcourt Hamblin. Col. Secry., Controller
of Customs, and clerk to the Council, Lt. P. J. Hankin, R. No
Col. Secretary, Austin Wm. Cox. Col. Treasurer, Antonio
MathE. Attorney general, Joseph E. Phillips. Bishop, Bishop
of Kingston. Chief Justice, Hon. Pt. J. Corner. Crown
Surveyor, J. II. Faber. Immigration Agent, A. "W. Cox, and
many others; the above being the most important.
The Legislature is composed of the Lt. Governorj and a
Legislative  Assembly of twenty-one memlbers, viz., eightteel




84                    BRITISH HONDURAS.
elective and three nominated by the Crown, also art Executive
Council of'sikx fntem'be.i's   
-.Execiftive' (ooneil, (styled honorable,) Officer  Con. troops,'CoAk Secretd, y,;,TreureasueAlt, OArIttoExGeni   O/cE: Ao. W.
ICoxi; A. MathbeP,: Toledo.
Imports of the colony for 1866........... ~,   169,033  08
Exports..     e.........   277,155 16
Amerlican Consul.. O..    O.....  i....o-o  o A. C. Prindle.
Spanish Eonduras...............:. J.E. Maittie.
Census population of colony, April 7, 1861........ 25,635
Present.      o Belize about............ 6,000
The population of the colony, including the towns, is almost
entirely colored.
On the efhects of agricultural immigrants there is no dutyv
but such persons on their way to Spanish Honduras will be required, to pay " Trans-shipment dues," varying from twenty-five
to fifty cents per package; the latter to be paid for each barrel
of flour and pork.
Many being under the impression that "living " is cheaper
at Belize than in the United  States, the following from the
"Belize Honduras Colonist " of February 29th,  1868, will
enable them to form  a: better idea perhaps than they at present have of the subject.  Gold or silver to be used in patyment.




BRITISH HONDURAS.                       85
FINANCIAL AND COMMERCIAL
IRate of Exchange of Bills on England is $500 per ~100
sterling.
IARKET PRICES.
Flour........................... $14 to 15 per bbl.
Rice........................... $5  to  6  " 1001bs.
Co0rn.............$....o o  $1  to 1.12 per bbl.
Plantains....................... 261 to 75c.   " 100.
Yams............................ $2.25 to 2.50  6" 100.
Beef............................       $18 to  25  per bbl.
Butter.........................  44  to  50c.  "  lb.
JLard.............eO.vO....s.ee  14 to  16c. " "
Pork, Prime...................  $24  per bbl.
"    Mess.................... $24 to 25 per bbl.
Fish....................... $6  to $7 " 100 lbs.
Fowls..... o.....................  $4.50 to 6" doz.
Sugar, brown................. $7  to  71 " 100 lb]s.
" wvhite...,....................16 to 19...
loaf.......... o............. $18 to 2...
CoffeeO......O    O.......O............     18  to  20 "..
Tea..:.                                9 e***sooooooee*........    $1.25 to 1.50 per lb.
T obacco, leaf.................... 25  to  32           100.
Cedar........................... 25  to  $40  " M. ft.
Pitch Pine Lumber................. 35 to.$40
White Pine.......................  40  to  $45 
Mahogany boards.................                80'..
Before taking up the subject of Spanish Hlonduras, it is a
pleasure to add our' testimony to the fact that his Excellency.
Jas. Robt. Longdon, Governor of British Honduras is a gentleman in every way qualified for the position he fills with so muchl
8




86                   BRITISH HONDURAS.
satisfaction to the people of the colony, and that he possesses the
rare combination of an excellent administrative and executive
officer, the result of large experience and close observation,
which, together with a finished education, polished manner, and
earnest desire to promote the welfare of those under him, has
greatly endeared him to all..   -
We'found him  also. to  be  eminently -practical in his
ideas, and trust if this -should. meet his- eye, that -he will excuse our using an expression made -use of by-him, and which we
will not soon forget, " that. he -did not so much desire to hear
what persons could do, as. what they had accomplished " in their
planting operations.




SPANISH HONDURAS,
OR
THE REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS.
Perhaps Spanish Honduras, particularly  San Pedro andc
vicinity, received attention from  our countrymen at as early a day as British Honduras.  Major Green Malcolm, of
Kentucky, left Atlanta, Georgia, in April 1867, for San Pedro, via Omoa, with seventy souls.  Soon after their arrival
at San Pedro  it was decided to place the government of
their local interests under the control of a council, in order
to avoid the necessity of assembling the entire colony when
any question of interest or expediency should arise likely to
effect their welfare, and at a public meeting they elected as their
council the following gentlemen: Maj. Malcolm as their presiding officer.
G. Malcolm,                       L. G. Pirkle,
H. H. Briers,                     Geo. W. Walters,
T. H. Wade,                       P. Goldsmlith, Secy.
Trhe site for a town to be called Medina, in honor of the President of the Republic, was selected soon after the arrival of
MAajor Malcolm, but up to the time of our leaving San Pedro it
did not contain a finished house, and only three or four were iu




88                   SPANISH HONDURAS.
course of construction. The site selected adjoins the corporation
of San Pedro. In May, 1867, Major Malcolm  was made Inspector of Foreign Immigration, the following being a copy of
his commission from the Government.
(Copia)                          COMAYAGUA, Mayo 8, 1867.
Senor GREEN MALCOLM.
El Gobierno en atencion a que V. ha sido admitido ya comol
ciudadano- de esta Republica, y teniendo en consideracion sus,
aptitudes y buenos deseos por la prosperidad del pais, ha tenido
a bien nombrarle por acuerdo de hoy Inspector de la Inmigracion estrangera en la costa 6 interior del departamento de
Santa Barbara,  debiendo V. dar cuenta al Gobierno de las.
disposiciones que adopte afin de cumplir con el encargo clue se
le confiere, para allanar las dificultades que se presenten y disponer todo lo que sea conveniente en el particular.
Esperando que V. se servira aceptar este nombramiento, tengo
el placer de suscribirme de V. tnny atento servidor.
PO'0 CIAN O LEIVA.
Hay un sello del Ministerio d(le Relaciones Interiores v Gober.
nacion.
Es confornme al original.
San Pedro, Febrero 2, 1 868.
J. REYNAUD.




SPANISH HONDURAS.                  89
(TRANSLATION.)
(Copy.)                         COMAYAGUA, May 8, 1867.
Mr. Green Malcolm,
Sir:
The government, considering that you have already been admitted as a citizen of this Republic, and satisQed of your abilities
and good wishes for the prosperity of the country, has deemed it
expedient to nominate you by a resolution passed this day, Inspector of Foreign Immigration for the coast and the interior of
the Department of Santa Barbara, making it your duty to report
to the Government, whatever measures you may adopt, in your
official capacity, to remove all difficulties that may arise and to
promote the views of Government on the subject of immigration.
Hoping that you will accept this nomination, I have the
pleasure to subscribe myself yours respectfully,
PONCIANO LEIVA.
Given under the seal of the Ministry of Interior Relations and
Government.
A true copy,
San Pedro, February 2, 1868.
J. REYNAUD.




90                  SPANISH HONDURAS.
On the third of May, I867,,the communication below was
forwarded to the authorities.
(Copy.)
To his Excellency the President and Executive officers of the
Republic of Honduras;
GENTLEMIEN;
The undersigned respectfully submits to your -consideration,
that on the 10th of April, after a passage of ten days, I arrived
in the city of Onmoa with seventy souls, emigrants to your beautiful land. These persons consist of men, women and children,
who are what might be termed the forerunners of perhaps thousands of the best citizens of the Southern States, of the United
States.  We wish to make this our home. To find in this that
which we have lost in our own native land, liberty.  To make
this what our country was before it was destroyed by our
enemies. Our desire is to become citizens of the Republic at
once, to be a part of your people, jto claim your protection, to
defend you with our lives from foreign invasion, and to do our
whole duty to our adopted country. In coming among you we
would state that on account of our recent great misfortunes,
many of us are greatly impoverished, and without goingc into
further preliminary remarks, would give this as our reason for
asking you to grant the following privileges and donations.
1st. A grant of land as indicated in the accompanying map.
2d. A free port at Port Acabellos for three years, for the
exclusive benefit of the colony.
3d. The exclusive navigation of the rivers Chamilicon, Ulua
and their tributries for ten years.
4th. The right to build roads through public or private lands,
for the benefit of the Colony and Government.




SPANISH HONDURAS.                  91
5th. The right to construct aqueducts  and bring water
thllrough our and adjacent lands.
6th. The exemption from taxation for two years from the day
of arrival.
7th. The privilege of enacting our own municipal regulations
in conformity with the laws of the Republic.
8th. TlIhe privilege of organizing our city adjacent to San
Pedro, separately from  that town and naming it the city of
Medina.
9th. The exclusive privilege of establishing" manufactories for
the manufacture of woolen and cotton goods in the Repnblic for
ten years.
10th. The exclusive privilege of introducing for five years,
wagons, buggies and carriages, the common sense sewing machine, washing machines of all descriptions with machines for
making tin-ware.
11th. The privilege of distilling liquors from the productions
of our farms. The privilege of planting and harvesting all seeds
in our colony. and introducting- the still known as the "Log still."
12th. The privilege of introducing for eight years the circular
saw mill run by steam or water, planing machines and shingle
machines. Tiae above we acknowledge appears liberal and we
would not have you think us asking too much, for we by ihese
privileges and grants, desire and are determined as far as possible to use them to the improvement, development and welfare
of the country as well as ourselves.
With the highest consideration,
I am gentlemen, your obedient servant.
(Signed.)                           G. MALCOLM.
Comayagua, Honduras, C. A., May 3, 1867.




92                    SPANISH HONDURAS.
To which the following answer was returned.
(Copia.)
El Presidente en quien reside el Supremo Poder Ejecttivo de
la Republica de Honduras, por cuanto: 1Haberse presentado el
Senor  Green  Malcolm   natural de los E. E. U. U., po'
si  y  a  nombre   de  varias  familias  sus  connacionales,
solicitando  establecerse en cl territorio de la Republica bajc
el gose de los ciudadanos Hondurenos y con sujeccion a las ley;es
vigentes y que en lo succesivo se emitan en el pais, para cuyo
intento piden varios privilegios y conseciones.
CONSIDERANDo —Que la Republica  necesita de inmigrantes
industriosos para desarrollar los elernentos naturales de riqueza~
que abundan, y que el Decreto Legislativo de 23 de Febrero de
aiio pasado faculta al Gobierno para protejer esta clase d(
empresas.  Por tanto; ha venido en hacer y decretar las conse,ciones:
la. Se permite a los inmigrantes honrados y laboriosos pro
cedentes de  los E. E. U. U. del Sur de la America de.Norte que han llegado y que arriben' en  lo succesivo  a
-pais, el establecimiento en el Distrito de San Pedro, Departa,mento de Santa Barbara, de una poblacion, que Ilevara el titulb
Jde ciudad de Medina.
-.2a. A mas del uso comun que la Municipalidad de San Pedr
ha concedido a dichos inmigrantes en sus ejiclos bajo las cond!
ciones asignadas en una acta que ha presentado en copia c
Senor Malcolm, y que el Gobierno ha aprobado, se les concede
los terrenos nacionales contiguos a los ejidos de San Pedro asi r
Sur de dichra poblacion y contenidos dentro de estos limit(
principales.: El Chamalecon, la Cima del Cerro nonllmrado I
Cumbre y la base de las montanas del Sur Oeste del,nism




SPANISH HONDURAS.                      93
pueblo' debiendo  oportunamente  practicarse una delineacion
adecuada.
3a. El Puerto Cort6s sera franco por tres aiios para que los
pobladores de la ciudad de Medina introduscan todo lo que les
sea necessario para su consunmo y cstablecimiento  de casas,
fabricas, maquinas, etc.
4a. La navegacion por medio de vapor o fuerza de caballos,
de los rios de Chamalecon, Ulna y sus tributarios sera esclusiva
para los mismos inmigrantes por el termino de ocho alios.
5a. Se les concede tambien los siguientes privilegios esclusivos: lo. Por diez anos el establecimiento de maquinas para manufacturar lana, algodon, u otras materias fibrosas, y para refinar
azncar. 2o. Por ocho afios el de maquina circular movida por
agua o vai or para acerrar madera y Ia de acepillar y ha6er tejamani.  30. La introduccion por cinco aiios de carros, calezas,
carruages, lta maquina de cocer conocida con el nombre de' Common Sense Sewing Machine," la de hacer bajilla de lata, y
el alanmbique conocido con el nombre de ",log still" para la
destilacion y venta de licores, Ia haran de conformidad con los
reglamentos de este ramo.
6a. Tendran el derecho de construitr caminos que pasen por
terrenos nacionales o de propriedad particular para beneficios de
Ailos mismos y del Gobierno y el de hacer acueductos o traer
iguas para regar sus terrenos.
ia. Los pobladores de la ciudad de Medina estaran excenltos
lel servicio militar  y de contribuciones forsosas por el terrmino
le dos aflos coltado; desde su arribo al pais.
8a. Tendraln el derechlo de elejir para su Gobierno local y con
rreglo a las leyes d3 Ia Republica un cuerpo municipal, pudiendo
atre tanto haya un numero de quinientas almas, ser rejidos por
n Gobernador y' un Juez de Paz que elegiran de entre ellos




94                   SPANISH HONDURAS.
mismos, estando subordinados el primero al Gobernador de Santa
Barbara y el segundo al Juez de Primera Instancia de,,Omoa.
9a. Tendra el derecho de hacer sus reglamentos municipales o
bandos para el Gobierno Interior de la poblacion de conformidad
con las leyes de la Republica y sometiendolos a la aprobacion
del Congreso, o del Supremo Poder Ejecutivo.
10a. Los articulos que dichos pobladores emrbarquen en los
phuertos de la Republica, seran libres de todo derecho de exportacion por el termino de ocho aiios. Estas concessiones en nada
perjadicaran  a  la empresa  del Ferro-carril Inter-Oceanico,
proyectado, pues los privilegios permitidos o que se permitan
s0bre este particular seran una excepcion de estas con.,essiones.
Sera entendido, que los privilegios antes referidos relativos al
establecimiento de maquinas, se extenderan solamente en los departamentos de Santa Barbara, Gracias y Comayagua, excepto
el de la maquina de hacer telas que sera extensivo a toda la Republica.
Si dentro de tres afios no hubiese en la ciudad que va a fundarse un numero de quinientas almas por lo menos, los privilegios concedidos en este Decreto quedaran sill efecto; pero en
este caso los inmigrantes que ya esten establecidos disfrutarail
de la propriedad de la parte que tengan cultivados de los terrenos
concedidos.  Escritas en Comayagua en la casa de Gobierno a
ocho de Mayo de mil ochosientos sesenta-y-siete.
J. LOPEZ,
PONSEANO LEIVA.
Hay un sello.
Es conforme con su original.
SAN PEDRO, Enero 29, 1868.
J. REYNAUD.




SPANISH HONDURAS.                    95
(TRANSLa.TION.)
The  President, in whom  resides  the supreme, executive
power of the Republic of Honduras.
Whereas, Mr. Green Malcolm, a native of the United States,
for himself and in behalf of various families of his nationality has
presented a petition, soliciting permission to settle in the territory of the Republic, with the privileges of citizens of Honduras, and subjecting  themselves to the laws now  in -force'or
that may hereafter be enacted in this:country, with which
intent they ask certain privileges and concessions.
CONSIDERING
That the Republic is in need of industrious Immigrants to
develop the natural resources which abound in our counltry, and
that the Legislative Decree of 23d February of last year authorizes the Government to protect this class of enterprises;'Therefore, now makes and decrees the following concessions;
1st. It is permitted to the honest and industrious Immigrants
fromu the'United States, of the South of North America, who
have already come or may hereafter come to this country, to establish, in the District of San  Pedro, Department of Santa
Barbara, a cummunity which shall bear the title of City of
AMedina.
2d. Besides the common use which the Municipality of San
Pedro has granted to said Immigrants in its public lands, under
the conditions laid down in the Act presented by Mr.',lalcolm,
tmd which the Government has approved, they are also granted:he national lands contiguous to those of San Pedro towards the
outh, and included within the following bloundaries; the Chainmicon and the base of the mountains of the south-, est of thlie sid
illage of San Pedro, a delineation of which will be opportuniel
Cade.




96                  SPANISHI HONDURAS.
3. Port Cortes shall be free during three years, in order that
the settlers of the city of Medina may introduce everything necessary for their consumption, and for the establishment of
houses, manufactories, machinery, etc.
4. Navigation by steam or horse power of the rivers Chamlicon, Ulua and its tributaries, shall be the exclusive privilege of
said Immigrants for a period of eight years.
5th. They are also granted the following exclusive privileges:
1st. For ten years, the establishment of machines for manufacturing cotton, woollen and other fibrous goods, and for.refining sugar.
2d. For eight years, the establishment of steam or water power
mills, for sawing and planing lumber, also wash machines.
3d. The introduction during five years, of wagons, buggies,
carriages, the  sewing machine known  as the  "Common
Sense Sewing Machine," the machine for making tin-ware and
the still known as the "Log Still," for the distillation of spirituous liquors, and the sale of the same, under the regulations relative to this branch.
6. They shall have the right of constructing roads over national
lands, or lands of private persons, for the benefit of themselves
and of the Government, and to construct aqueducts to conduct
water for the irrigation of their lands.
7. The settlers of the city of Medina, shall be exempt from
military service and forced contributions during two years from
their arrival.
8. They shall have the right to elect for their government, and
in conformity with the laws of the  Republic, a municipal
body; and may, in the meantime, and until they number 500
persons, be ruled by a Governor and a Judge of the Peace whom
they shall elect from  among themselves, those officers being




SPANISH HONDURAS.                   97
subordinate, the former to the Governor of Santa Barbara, and
the latter to the "Judge in the First Instance" of Omoa.
9th. They shall have the right to make their own rules and
regulations for-the internal government of the cummunity, in
conformity with the laws of the Republic, and shall submit these
to the approbation of the Congress, or the Supreme Executive
Power.'
10. The articles which said settlers may ship in the ports of
the Republic shall be free from all export duty during a period
of eight years.
These concessions shall in no manner operate to the prejudice
of the projected Inter-Oceanic Railroad; for, whatever privileges
have been, or may hereafter be granted to the latter, shall be an
exception to the present concessions.
Let it be understood: that the privileges before mentioned
relative to'the establishment of machines, shall be confined to
the departments of Santa Barbara, Gracies and Comayagua;
excepting for the machine for manufacturing cloths, which shall
extend to the whole Republic.
If within three years the number of persons in the city now to
be founded does not ascend to five hundred at least, the privileges granted under this Act shall remain without effect; but,
in such case the immigrants who may already be established
shall have the right of property to such portions of the land
Granted as shall be found under cultivation.
VWritten in Comayagua, in the Government House, on the
3th day of May, 1867.-J. Lopez, Ponseano Leiva.
X SEAL.                   A true copy,
tc-    I  8     San Pedro, Jan. 29th, 1868.
J. REYNAUt D.




SPANISH HONDURAS.
On the 22d of April 18t,7 the Act given below was passed by
the town of San  Pedro for the protection of 2Loreign Immigrants.:
zActa Municipal de las. 4utoridades de San Pedro, protejiendo
a los I n2ig'zrantes Estran geros.'JOSE MNARIA MERLO,
Secretario de la Municipalidad de San Pedro,
Certifico: que en el libro de actas y acuerdos que la Municipalidad lleva en el corriente aiio, se encuentra el acuerdo que
literalmente dice: " Sala de Sesiones Municipales, San Pedro,
Abril veinte y dos de mil ochocientos sesenta y siete.
La Municipalidad de San Pedro, reunida estraordinariamente
en union del Consejo y otros vecinos, presidida por el sefior Alcalde Municipal.  En seouida, despues de oida la solicitud expuesta por el coronel Mr. Green Malcolm, natural de los Estados Unidos de Norte America, representante de  la emigracion de dichos Estados, que boy ha arribado y quo arribe en lo
sucesivo a esta poblacion con animo de avecindarse; por si y a
nombre de sus consosios, pidio se les conceda poblarse con nosotros, y terrenos de los nuestros para edificar casas, parla habitacilones, para maquinas, fabricas o manufacturas de coser, tejer,
aserrar y otras, y para cultivar.  La Miunicipaliclad, conside.
rando: lo. Que el territorio de la Republica de Honduras ec
un asilo para todo estrangero, maxime clue venga a trabajar d(
cualquier manera en el.  2o. Que ofreciendo NMr. Malcolm por s
y sus consocios establecer fabricas y manufacturas en el pais;
ademas, ensefiar a los hijos de este mismo, dichos oficios u otros
3o. Establecer una ruta de comunicacion por el aChnmaleco
entre Omoa y San Pedro para exportlar 6 inmportar mercancia
unyas y de los del pais, cobrandoles a estos precios equnitativo



SPANISH HONDURAS.                      99>
tanto, que les cueste dos o tres veces m6nos que,i alquiler de,
una mula por el transporte.  40. Vivir fraternalmente con los
de este pais y servirse mutuamente.: 56. Acatar las autori —
dades, las leyes y la religion del pais, y contribuir por su parte at
respeto, observancia y cumplimiento de las primeras, de modo,
que si entre ellos alguno faltare a su dicho respeto y observancia,.
pediran y llaran que sea castigado segun las mlismas leyes.  Go.
Y establecer coiejios'y escuelas de ensefiainz{ para sus hijos y los.
de este pais, cuando se radiquen.  Y la M3unicipalidad en conse —
cuencia, oyendo al consejo, acordo.  lo. Dar a todo estrangero.
que quiera radicarse en San Pedro, derecho en los ejidos de est;a
poblacion para edificar casas para habitacion, para maquinas o
fabricas de tejer, coser, acerrar maderas y otras que deseen establecer despues, y para el cultivo de cafia, algodon, caf6, etc. 2o0.
Que los Norte Americanos que hoy han ilegado y llegaren a
establecerse en San Pedro, no podran impedir a ningun centroamericano, o de otra nacion amiga, que viniere a avecindarse,
que quisiere edificar casa cerca de las suyas en los lugares que,
no tengan occupados.  3o. Que el derecho que tengan en los:
ejidos sera igual al que tienen los vecitos de San Pedro parst
cultivar, para cortar maderas, sean o no para construccion, para
materiales de sus casas, finreas y de otras cosas para que quieran
hacer uso, menos para exportarlas como articulo mercantil.  4o..
Iglual derecho tendran a las plantas medicinales y frutas silvestres sin duefio, que se encuentren en dichos ejidos para que
hagan uso de ellas.'Tambien tendran derecho al uwo de la madera.
para lefia y de las aguas para sus maquinas, siempre que las'.ecessitaren, si de' esto no resultare daido alguno al comun del
ueblo.  5o. Que ninguno de los vecinos de San Pedro les moestara ni inquietara por la posesion de lo que adquieran bajo de.
os principios de esta concesion; y el que lo hiciere, sera casti



100                   SPANISH HONDURAS.
gado como perturbador de la paz y tranquilidad de las familias.
60o. Que de este acuerdo se le d6 testimonio a Mr. Malcolm para
que lo presente a S. E. el Sr. Presidente de la Republica,
para que si lo estimase por conveniente, se sirva darle su soberana aprobacion, o que disponga lo que fuere mas conformle.
Asi se acordo, firmando la Miinicipalidad, el Cotnsejo y vecinos
que concurrieron por ante mi el presente Secretario que doy fe,
Monico Padilla.  Por el Senor Rejidor Doll Pablo Caliz, que
no sabe firmar, y por mi como Sindico, Antonio Zarabia.  Por.
los Consejeros Don Juan Zuniga. Don Juan Caliz y Don Luis
Matamoros que no saben firmar, y por mi como Consejero,
Manuel Cruz.  Timoteo Quintera.  TLazaro Bardales, por mi
padre Serapio Reyes, que no sabe firmar y por los Senores Don
Jorge Yallecillo, y Don Concepcion Vallecillo.  Andres Reyes.
Manuel Caliz. Jose  Reynaud.  Ruftno Gonzales.  Eduardo
Buchmar. Jos6 Maria Merlo, Secretario.  Concuerda con su
orijinal a que remito de donde lo saque literalmente, a pedimento
verbal de Mr. Malcolm, en San Pedro, a los veinte-y-tres dias
del mes de Abril de mil ochosientos sesenta-y-siete.  Jose Maria
Merlo, Secretario.
Es conforme.
SAN PEDRO,  Enero 31, 1868.
J. REYNAUD.




SPANISH HONDURAS.                    101
(TRANSLATION.)
A Municipal Act of the Autlorities of Sans Pedro, for thle Protection of Foreign Immig}rants.
I, Jose Maria Merlo, Secretary of the Municipality  of San
Pedro, do herby certify:
That in the Book of Acts and Resolutions, of the Municipality
for this year, is found the Resolution which literally says
Municipal Session Hall, San Pedro, April 22, 186.
-rhe Municipality of San Pedro, in extraordinary  session assembled, in conjunction with the Council and other citizens, presided by his Honor the Alcalde Municipal, and after hearing the
petition presented by Col. Green Malcolm, a native of the  United States of North America, representing the emigration from
said States already arrived or that may hereafter arrive at this
place, with the object of domiciliating here, for himself and in
behalf of his associates, he solicits the right of settling among
uis, and also the grant of lands to build houses for residence, and
for machine-shops and manufactories of various kinds, such asClothin(r manufactories, Saw Mills, etc., and also for agricultu7al purposes; Therefore, the Municipality, considering:
1st.-That the territory of the Republic of Honduras offers
ihome to all foreigners, particularly to the industrious who may
vish to settle upon its soil
2d. That Mr. Green Malco'rn, for himself and in the name of
is fellow settlers, offers to establish machines and manufactories
i the country, and to teach to the natives of the soil the use and
ianagement of the same, and other trades
3d. To establish a highway for transit by the Chamlicon, beween Omoa and San Pedro, to import and export merchandise
or themselves and for the natives, requiring from the latter such?




102                  SPANISH HONDURAS.
reasonable prices as will amount to about one-third the hire of
a mule.
4: To live in good harmony with the natives, fraternizing with
and helping each other..5. To respect the authorities, the laws and the religion of the
coilntry, and to contribute on their part, to the respect, observance and execution of the same, so that if any of them. should
fail in this particular, they shall demand and see that he be punished according to the laws.
6. To establish Colleges and Schools for their children and
those of the natives.
And the Municipality after hearing the Council did I therefore
resolve:1. To grant to each and every foreigner wishing to settle in
San Pedro, the right to build on the public lands of this community, houses of residence, machine-shops and manufactories of
various kinds, for cloths and clothing, saw mills, aud such others
as they may wish to establish afterwards; and also for the cultivation of Cotton, Sugar Cane, Coffee, &c.
2. That the North Americans who have arrived or may hereafter arrive here for the purpose of settling in San Pedro, shall
not oppose any Central-American. or citizens of any fiiendly
nations who may come to settle, and erect buildings on the uuoccupied lands in their vicinity.
3. That. their right in relation to public lands shall be the
same as those enjoyed by the citizens of San Pedro, for cultivation, for making lumber, whether for building purposes or for the
use of their establishments, or other purposes, excepting for exportation as an article of merchandise.
4. They shall have an equal right to the medicinal plants and
wild fruits on the public lands; also the right to cut wood for




SPANISH HONDURAS.                 103
fuel, and to the use of the water for their machines, whenever
they may need them, provided no prejudice result therefrom  to
the public at large.
5th. That no citizen of San Pedro shall molest or disturb
them in the possession of whatever they may acquire under this
Act: and any one so doing, shall be punished as a disturber of
the peace and.tranquility of the community.
6th. That this Act be communicated to Mr. Malcolm, that
he may present it to His Excellency the President of the Republic, in order that, should.he deem it expedient, he may give
it his sovereign approval, or otherwise dispose as he may think
proper.
Thus agreed, and sigd signed by the Municipality, the Council
and citizens who concurred, before me, the present Secretary,
to which I hereby certify.-M[onico Pedilla, by the Sedor Regidor Don Pablo Cadiz, who cannot sign his name, and by  ne
as Syndic, Antonio Zarabia; for the Councilmen Don Juan
Zuniga, Don Juan Cadiz, and Doll Luis Matamoros, who cannot write, and for: myself MIanuel Cruz.' Tim otco Qaintero,
Lazaro Bardalis. Por mi padre, Seraphio Reyes, who cannot
sign, and for Messrs. Jorge Vallecillo and Concepcion Vallecillo,-Andres Reyes. Manuel Cadiz, Jose Reynaud-Rufino
Gonzalez-Eduardo Buckmar. Jose Maria Merlo, Secretario,:
This agrees with the, original from which I copied it literally, at
the verbal request of Mr. Malcolm, in San Pedro, on the 23d
day of the month of April, 1867. —Jos6 Maria  Merlo,
Secretary.
A true copy:.
San Pedro, January 31, 1868.
J. REYNAUD.




104                   SPANISH HONDURAS.
The following is from  the Legislative Bulletin  of March
14th. 1866:
El Presidente de la Republica de Honduras a sus Habitantes 
Sabed: Que el Soberano Congreso ha decretado lo siguiente:
"El Soberano Congreso con el fin de establecer las condiciones bajo las cuales debe admitirsa en ]a Republica la inmigracion estrangera; y en complimento del articuloA 19 de la
CCenstitucion, ha tenido a bien
DECRETAR.
ARTICULO lo. Se concede a tolos los estrangeros que quieran
domiciliarse en Honduras, los derechos que gocen los'nativos
con areglo a las leyes, a las cuales quedaran sugretos los inmigrantes, desde el momento en que adquieran vecindario.
ART. 2o. El estrangero que desde el dia en que obtenga:
carta de vecindad, en cinco anos, cultive positivamente un terreno nacional, estableciendo  en el, fineas estables, lo hara suyo
en propriedad, pudiendo  sacar de otros terrenos nacionales
con tiguos, los aprovechamientos necesarios para su finca.
ART. 30. Los estrangeros gosaran el privilegio de no prestar
servicios mil itares en un periodo de diez alios, salvo el caso de
guerra nacional  para repeler una invasion; y por cuatro aftos
no seran molestados para ningun ofilio o empleo concejil.
ART. 40. Los inmigrantes que profesen otra religion que no
sea la dominante, pueden ejercer privadamente su propio culto,
y erijir cementerios para sepultar sus cadaveres.
ART. 5o. Los inmigrantes no estaran sujetos, durante ocho.aftos. a tasas ni impuestos extraordinarios; ni pagaran derechos
fiscales por la introduccion de maquinas herramientas, itstrumentos y libros para ejercer sus ciencias e industrias.
ART. 60. El Poder ejecutivo concedera privilegios esclusivos a




SPANISH HONDURAS.                    105
los estrangeros inventores o introductores de maquinas o procedimientos utiles, no usados en el pais.
ART. 7o. En todo tiempo, los est.rangeros libres de responsabilidad legal, podran emigrar y disponer de sus intereses a su
garbitrio.
ART. 80. A  los: inmigrantes quc tomen en arrendamiento,
tierras o fincas de propriedad particular, no se les cobrara mas
canon o pension, que la que  por costumbre se haya exijido a
los nativos.
ART. 9o. Las concesiones de esta ley se entienden acordadas
tambien, a favor de los inmigrantes de  las Republicas de
America,
)ado en el Salon de sesiones dcl Congreso Nacional.  Comaayagua, Febrero 26 de 1866. Juan L opez, D. P.  Carlos Madrid, 1). S. Jeronimo Zelaya, D. S.
Es conforme a su original.
San Pedro, Febrero 3 de 1868.
J. REYNAUD.
TRANSLATION.
COMAYAGUA, 14th March, 1866.
The President of the Republic qf Hoinduras,
To its Inhabitants s
Be itknown': That the 4overeign Congress has decreed the
following:
"The Sove;'eig'!n Congress, with the view of laying down the
conditions unlelr which Foreign.'Immigration is to be admitted into the R!epublic; and in complianco with article 19 of
the Constitutini. hereby
DECREES:
ART. 1. To al foreigners wishing to domiciliate in Hond uras




106                   SPANISH HONDURAS.
are granted the rights'enjoyed by the Natives under the laws,
to which Immigrants shall be subject from  the moment they
acquire a domicil.
ART.' 2, The foreigner who, within five years from the day he
obtains his certificate  of residence, shall positively cultivate
some national land, establishing thereon permanenit farms, will
thereby acquire the right of propeiety- to said land, and shall
moreover have the right of taking from o ther contiguous Government lands such materials as may be necessary.for the impr6vement of his place.
ART. 3. Foreigners shall enjoy the privilege of exemption from
military service during a period  of ten years, except in case of
nati'onal war to repel invasion; and during four years shall not
be required to perform'any civil duty.
ART. 4. Immigrants whose religious creed may be different
firom the prevailing religion, may privately follow  their own
religion and erect cemeteries for the dead.
ART. 5. Immigrants shall not be subject, durino eight years,
to any tax or impost, nor have to pay fiscal duties for the introduction of machitiery, tools, instruments and books for the use
of their professional or industrial pursuits.
ART. 6. The Executive Power shall grant exclusive privileges to foreigners who may iiiveat'or introduce machines, or
useful improvements, not in use in this country.
ART. 7. At all times, foreigners free from  all legal respon
sibility shall be at liberty to iinigrate and to dispose of thelr
interests at their own will.
ART. 8. Immigrants who may take on lease private lands, or
farms, shall not be required to pay higher contributions than is
usuallry required from natives.'




SPANISH HONDURAS.                     107
ART. 9. The benefits^ granted under this law are understood
to extend alpo to immigrants from the Republics of America.
Given in the Session Hall of the National Congress.  Comayagua, February  26, 1866.  Juan Lopez, D. P.-Carlos Madrid, D. S. —Jeronimo Zelaya, D. S.
J SEAL..     A true copy:
San Pedro, Febrnary 3, 1868.
J. REYNAUD.
Knowing that the Official Gazette of all countries is supposed to reflect the sentiment of the Government, the following
is inserted to give information that may be of value, or at least
of interest to those who contemplate removing to Spanish Honduras.
(Copia.)
(Parrafo tomado del Tomo 60o, Numero 73, de la Gaceta Oficial de Honduras.)
EIBIGRADOS CULTIVrADORES Y EMIIGRADOS POLITICOS.
N Tuestra industria y nuestra civilizacion que tanto reclaman
el advenimiento de estrangeros pacificos con designios de radicarse en el pais, comienzan a recibir beneficios de la emigracion
de cultivadores, que andandoel tiempo daran a nuestras riqcuezas
naturales todo el valor que merecen y que boy se desconoce."
"Ha venido a las costas de Omoa un numero cotnsiderable de
fimilias de los Estados Unidos con capitales y herramientas,; se
estan haciendo plantaciones que bastaute prometen, y se espera
el continuado ineroso de otras familias.  Aientras tanto, se inician algunas contratas para la ejectcion del proyectado Ferrocarril Inter-Oceanico. que como  01or encanto  cambial'a, cuanldo




108                  SPANISH HONDURAS.
se verifique, la suerte de este pais estacionado y comprimido
entre dos mwares por falta de una via ferrea que los coinunique."
" La Republica pues, pasados sus recientes quebrantos por la
guerra de Olancho, toca una epoca en que comenzaran a desarrollarse sus incalculables elementos de prosperidad, bajo los
auspicios de la paz y de la nueva legislacion que boy rije."
"Aparte de las contratas que sancione el proximo Congreso,
hay una ley bastante liberal para atraer la inmigracion estrangera, y el Poder Ejecutivo esta facultado para aumentar las concesiones.  En efecto, hay la mejor disposicion para que asi se
realice; pero con tan prudentes reservas, que en ningun caso
puedan convertirse en amenazas o peligros para la nacion, los
bienes que se dispensen al elemento civilizador que pretende
favorecernos."
" Por lo mismo cumple al buen sentido con que ira procediendose en esta parte, que sea bien conoclda de todos la politica del
mismo Gobierno."
" No es aceptable en sus determinaciones, el hecho de que se
establescan colonias que asuman la aptitud de grupos en que
prevalezca la solaridad de un estrangerismo peligroso."
"Tampoco seranl aceptables los derechos esclusivos en favor
de algunas naciones, gremnios o individuos, que impidan a otros
los comunes beneficios que las leyes del pais ofrecen a todos los
emigrados pacificos del mundo."
"En lo concerniente a la via ferrea, sera preferible el proyecto
que en mejores terminos brinde mas garantias de practicabilidad."
" En orden a emigrados politicos de las vecinas Republicas, el
Gobierno muy interesado en la paz de Centro-America, cumplira
con fidelidad los tratados que sobre la materia existen con'algunas de ellas; y respecto de las que no medien pactos expresos,
hara que inflexiblemente se observe con sus respectivos emigra



SPANISH HONDURAS.                    109
dos lo que el Derecho de Gentes previene, sin permitirles que
ejerzan hostilidades contra sus gobiernos; pero esto de tal modo,
que en casos indefinidos, no se' infrinja la Constitucion de la
Republica, por que el Presidente de ella esta dispuesto a sostener
a todo trance ese codigo que le cupo en honra sancionar sin serle dable  hollarlo, por que en eso seria una inconsecuencia
culpable."
Es conforme.
SAN PEDRO, FEBRERO 11, 1868.
J. REYN AUD.
TRANSLATION.
(Extract from the 6th Volume, No. T8, of the " Gazeta Oflcia " of Honduras.)
"AGRICULTURAL EMSIGRANTS AND POLITICAL EMIGRANTS.' Our industry and civilization, so much in need of energetic,
experienced and enterprising men, already begin to give unmistakable evidences of the immense benefits to be derived by our.ountry from  the advent and permanent settlement on our soil
)f the industrious and enlightened immigrants whom the liberal
)olicy of our Government is now  attracting to our shores, and
vhose labors, we have no doubt, will soon soon render available
he hitherto hidden and unprofitable treasures of our fertile soil.
"A considerable number of immigrants provided with capital
nd agricultural implements have already arrived from  the
Jnited States, and the various plantations which here and there
ave sprung up under their care, promisingo  a just reward for
ieir labors,, cannot fail to insure the continued influx of this,sirable class of population.  At the same time several con.
acts are on foot for the building of the projected Interceanic Railroad, which will, when realized, change, as if by
tchantment. the fate of this country now  bound and corm10




l10                   SPANISH HONDURAS.
pressed between two seas, for want of a railroad to establisl
commlun ication between them.
"The Republic, then, free from the recent troubles of the wa
of Olancho, has now reached a period when, under the auspice
of peace and a wise legislation, the incalculable resources of it
soil will begin to develop.'Apart from  the contracts which will be sanctioned by tl
next Congress, there is a law  sufficiently liberal to attract fo:
cign Immigration, and the Executive Power is authorized t
increase  the concessions.  In fact, the law  contains the be
dispositions for the realization  of this object; but under su(
prudent restrictions, that in no case, can the benefits and priN
leges thus conferred, be converted into a dangerous power
our midst.
".It is therefore important for all parties to understand t
true policy of the Government on this subject.
"It; is not in the spirit of that policy to tolerate the
tablishment of colonies that would assume  the attitude
g'roups in which would prevail the solidarity of a danger(
foreignism.
" Neither should it be interpreted as granting rights or pr!
leges to certain nations, corporations or individuals, that wo
exclude others from the common benefits which the laws of
country offer to all peaceable immigrants fiom  all parts of
world.
"In relation to the Railroad, that plan will be most accept,
that shall give the best guarantee of practicability.
"With regard  to political emigrants from [the neighbom
Republics, the Government, much interested in  the p(
of Central America, will faithfully conform  with  the trec




SPANISH HONDURAS.                  1lt
which exist between some of them  and this Government; and
with respect to emigrants from  those republics with. whom wehave as-yet no treaty, they shall be dealt with according to the
strictest principles of reason and equity; not permitting then}
n any case  to exercise hostilities against their own governnent; but this, in such manner, that in cases not defined, the
Jonstitution of the Republic shall  not be infringed, for the?resident is determined to enforec at all times the provisions of
hat Instrument which he had the honor of sanctioning, without
eing at liberty to violate it.
A true copy:
San Pedro, February 11, 1868.
J. REYNAUD.
The Council elected in 1867 continued in office till the 18th of'
ebruary, 1868, when a new Council was elected, the following
mntlemen being chosen; Dr. G. P. Frierson tie Presidingo
fficer.
Dr. G. P. Frierson,                   D. P. Ferguson,
W. B. Tindle, Sr.,                    L. G. Pirkle,
G. A. Haralson,                       A. J. Hill, Secry.
In consequence of a difference of opinion existing between thetthorities of San Pedro and Maj. Malcolm  concerning the
ayor's authority over, and right to grant titles to the town
ids as Agent of the Bureau of Emigration, the matter was put
rest by the Major signing the following paper, which wastde a matter of public record.
(Copy.)
"As I donot wish to be misunderstood or misrepresented, IL
reby repeat what I have stated to Dr. Frierson and others at




112;                 SPANISH HONDURAS.
different times, that any one desiring' to settle on the District of:
land called Medina, and which was conceded by the town of
San Pedro in an official Act dated April 22, 1867, to settlers,
have the ability, with my:consent, to choose their location and
150 acres to a man of family and 100 acres to a single man, and
that they have the right to apply to the authorities of San
Pedro for titles or rely upon my obtaining titles for them as
they may choose. That. I make no objection to any settler except on account of unworthiness to be established by me. The
cost to be at the expense of each settler, unless the General
Government decide that titles are only tO:be made by the
authorities of San Pedro; and in thapt case, I obligate myself
to refund all such costs made to me. In the event that the
General Government decide that titles to said lands slhall be made
through other channels, then I obligate myself to furnish indisputable titles, without additional costs, and:in whatever
manner the Government may direct. Having promised as a
citizen of the country and as an officer' of Government,;to be
controlled in all things by my superiors.
February 24, 1868.
(Sigled)                       G. MALCOLM.
WITNESSES:
(Signed)   G. P. Frierson,'  W. J. Walters,
L. G. Pirkle.
The following notice being found posted, is copied for information.
NOTICE.
At a meeting of the City Council of Medina, February 24,
the following resolution was passed:




SPANISH HONDURAS.                  113
rl'hat aly one wishing a lot in Medina, can obtain the same,by paying register fee, (one dollar) with the privilege of buying
an additional lot for the sum of 25 dollars; provided the first
lot be cleared off immediately and improved within six months;
the second to be cleared and improved within twelve months.
A house to be erected on one of the lots within six months. The
above privilege to close on June first.
February 26, 1868.
(Si'ned)                    G. P. FRIERSON,
Chairman.
SAN JPEMDREO SULA.._
The town of San Pedro is situated on the plain of Sula, in the
department of Santa Barbara, and is about thirty miles from
Omoa, though the natives state the distance to be about fifty
miles. An attempt has been made to describe the routs to it,
and we will r:ow give a short account of the town and its surroundings.  r'The town is certainly most delightfully situated,
two and a half miles froi the mountains on the west, whose tops
are frequently enveloped in clouds, and the varying hues of the
vegetation on their slopes as the sun rises and descends make a
scene that isconstantly changing, and which is as pleasing as it
is lovely. There are no cisterns or wells, the supply of water
being brought from the Rio de las Piedras, two and a half miles
distant, and passes through the place by four little streams,
through which it gurgles over pebbly bottoms, entirely shaded
till it reaches the corporate limits of the place. pure, clear and
cool from the mountains,
By a regulation of the town the water is not permitted to be
disturbed above a certain point, where the supply is obtained
for culinary purposes and for drinking. The Cavildo (Court




114                  SPANISH HONDURAS.
house) is constructed of large sun dried bricks, or adobes, and is
covered with tile, as is also the church edifice and several other
houses in the place, but'most of the buildings have mud walls.and are covered with branches of the Cahoon. Not a chimney
is to be seen in the place; not a pane of glass; and only two
plank floors. The houses are all one story. The country north,
south and east of town is cultivated in patches of from five to
fifty acres, where the orange, plantain, banana, pine-apple and
other fruits may be found growing. From  sun rise till noon it
is best to keep in the shade as the heat is oppressive, but after that
time we have never known a breeze to fail to spring up from
the north, which prevails with greater or less force till sun-set.
It is a somewhat remarkable fact that when the thermometer
indicates 70 ~, the temperature. judging  from  the feelings,
-seems to be at least 10 ~. lower. The least that can be said is,
this is a lovely spot, but the means of getting to it, and other
objections that seem insurmountable, should, if possible, be removed. Population from  500 to  600; 200 of which  are
emigrants, and the remainder mixed.,
The productions of both Spanish Honduras and British Honduras are very much the same with the exception of cacao and
coffee, both of which seem  to us better here than in British
Honduras.'Mahogany, fustic;, log-wood, rose-wood, and other
woods of value are alike common in both countries, as is also th(
caoutchouc, or India-rubber. Most of the wood of both Spahisl:
Honduras and:British Honduras will not split,'and the fencing
is' usually made of logs, or the "Pimente."  The follow'ing we
were told would split, though we saw no rails in the country
cedar; one kind of mahogany, laurel, jabon, pine, (which gr6w
on l'the mountains) and one kind of oak (we saw only the liv
oak.)' Much of the timber is' liable to be attacked by worn




SPANISH HONDURAS.                   115
and is unsuited to building purposes. The following being used
for houses; cedar, mahogany, biack laurel, frijolea, oak, cabrahatcha, and the mother of cacao; the last being very fine for
posts, as it is said to be as durable as our locust. The Motatg, a
hedge plant, is used very extensively, (which we do not remember to have mentioned) which grows to the height of six to
eight feet, and resembles the tuft which grows on the top of the
pine apple, with briers on each edge, and is impenetrable.
F=:.LT ITS.
It is a mistaken idea that fruits of most kinds can be had at
all seasons of the year, and that they are superior to the same
kinds imported into the United States. The banana and plantain are always to be had, as is also the orange, in some sections,
but they are not superior in flavor to the same fruits, imported,
as it is necessary to gather them, except the orange, in an unripe state, even here, to prevent their destruction by birds. The
pine apple is perhaps superior in flavor when left to ripen on
the plant, that being the opinion expressed by many, though we
could discover but little, if any difference. There are no peaches
no pears, no apples and we hardly think any one would exchange
those fruits for all that are raised in Honduras.  There are two
fibrous plants that are worthy of mention, which are extensively
used by the natives though comparatively little is prepared for
export. The  " Pete," or  silk  grass; and the  "Mascal."
From the first fish lines and hammocks are made, and from the
second, cordage.  The fibre is almost precisely like the manilla,
being equally strong, and is prepared without "water rotting."
These plants so closely resemble the "Motte " in appearance
that they are often mistaken for it.
In British Honduras but little game was seen, but in Spanish




116                 SPANISH HONDURAS.
Honduras call be found the deer, turkey, a species of grouse,
and the Qtnln, which is a bird not unlike the pea fowl, but a
little smaller; also rabbits, quails and pigeons.
While the waters of the sea furnish fish in abundance and in
great variety, they were not found to be plentiful in the streams
in either country we visited.
DUTIES
The Import duty is 40 per cent on all things but liquor, that
being 30 per cent; 10 per cent of the 40 per cent has to be
paid in coin, and 30 per cent in Government paper, which reduces it to about 15 per cent in coin. Oln liquor, 20 per cent
has to be paid in coin, and the balance in Government paper.
Export duty 6 per cent. There is no duty on anything
brought into the country by emigrants for their own use.
ExPORTS AND IMPORTS.
The annual exports are about as follows: Imports bein
about the same as exports in amount.
Exports.-Mahogany, and other woods........... $300,00('"    Bullion........................    250,00(
"d Cattle........;.                  150,00('      5Indigo, sugar; hides, tobacco and sarsaparilla....................... 250,00(
T otal................. $950,001
1:'  VENTtS               - S
The revenues. of the country amount to about $300,000,
large portion of which is derived from the sale of Aguardiente
(native rum) and tobacco, both of which are Government mon
opolies.
Most of the money in circulation is the Macaco or cut mone3




SPANISH HONDURAS.                    117
though there- is- now  considerable American coin t6 be seen,
which passes for its full value, except the dime and half dime.
The Government is popular and representative and composed
of three distinct -powers, viz: Legoislative, Executive, and Judicial. The first residing in the General Assembly, the second in
the President, and the third in the Courts.
The religion is the Roman Catholic to the exclusion of all
others.  The following being an extract from the Constitution
of the country on that subject.
CAPITULO  3'
DEL GOBIERNO Y DE LA RELIGION.
ART. 7 ~l —El Gobierno de la Republica es popular representativo; y se ejercera por tres Polderes distintos: Legislativo, Ejecutivo y Judicial.
ART. 8 ~ —La  Religion de la Republica es la Cristiana,
Catholica, Apostolica Roman, con exclusion del ejercicio publico
de cualquiera otra. El Gobierno la protege:; pero ni este ni
lutoridad a!gun;a tendran intervencion en el ejercicio privado de
as otras que se establezcan en el pais, si estas no tienden a de)rimir la. dominante y a alterar el orden publico.
Persons born in;the state, or.any state of Central America
re recognized as citizens. Foreigners may acquire the right by.ct of the Le, islature, but as soon as they declare their intention.
D become citizelis are entitled to the protection of citizens.
All citizens over the age of 21 are entitled to vote, but after
ie year 1870 olly those who can read and write will be entitled
that privilege.  Any one convicted of a crime is deprived of
ie right of suffrage.  Foreigners become naturalized by marryg in the state, or by holding a given amount of property.




118                 SPANISH HONDURAS.
L AB~ORERS AND SSERVANTS.
The price usually paid for men, field hands, is from five to
seven dollars per month and their.provision, and from eight to
ten when they feed themselves. For a cook woman, $3 00 per
month. For washing (familyof four) $2 00 per month-washing not done on the premises; for a girl 12 years of age, from
$1 00 to $1 50 per month; and for boys of the same age $3 00
per month. As is the case in British Honduras, laborers and
servants are scarce, and the few to be found are seldom anxious
to hire. We do not know of a family of emigrants at San Pedro
provided with native servants, they doing their work in most
cases themselves; though there may be some.
DO1V~ESTIC AGAEGrE1E:E NTS.
We have said there is not a chimney at SanL Pedro; this is
the case also in British Honduras except in the towns. The
contrivance for cooking is a platform raised about two feet, on
which clay to:the depth of six inches is placed, and at one side,
or rather edge, several little horse-shoe or semi-circular fire
places are made on which to place the cooking vessels.  It is
astonishing to see how small a quantity of wood is necessary to
cook a meal by this arrangement.  A lady who has lived here
for several years informed me she preferred these fire places to a
cook stove. Such a thing as a bucket is not to be seen; porous
earthen jars being used instead, the constant evaporation from
the surface of which reduces the temperature of the water several
degrees. On the table, earthen bottles of a similar material are
used instead of pitchers. The women are the most superior
washers, yet a wash tub is not used, but what is called a Battea,
which is a tray, varying in size, but usually two feet and a half
in length by one and a halft in width. For the benefit of bachelors we will state that they have no use for a wash board, and




SPANISH HONDURAS.                    119
that only thirty-seven and a half cents per dozen is charged for
washing when soap is furnished them, and one dollar if the
clothes are starched and ironed.  Their work in this line ought
to be well done, for our experience (before we commenced doing
our own wAashing) proved that they required one day to wash,
one to dry, one to iron, and from one to two more to bring it
home, whether it was one piece or a dozen. It seems almost
impossible for one person to do anything where two cabi be
employed. Inll milking, one holds the calabash while another
milks with both hands; the calf being tied to a fore leg of the
cow.
Neat cattle are plentiful, and can be bought for, from  5 to
10 dollars each, a short distance from San Peiro.  HIorses and
mules are abundant, but very small, and vary in price from 15
to 50 dollars, the latter price being paid for such animals as can
be bought with us for the same sum in different funds. The hogs
are' very fine and can be bought low; pork selling for 3 cents
per pound.  This is no country foil sheep, but the goat seems to
do very well.
EEPTIL3TES  ANrD INSECOTS.
We did not see, during our stay in Spanish Honduras, a single
snake-though they are said to be numerous. There are some
bottle-flies, but not so many as in British Honduras, and in
certain localities sand flies are very numerous and annoying.
WVhile we saw no mnosquitoes at San Pedro, if it is desired to
see them  in t;heir most gigantic proportions, take a trip on the
Chemlicon.  During our stay on that river they proved themselves to be the largest, strongest, most persistent in their efforts
to anntY, cearrieltheslharpest weapon, and used it more vigorously than any it hadelver betore been our misfortune to encounter.




120                SPANISH HONDURAS.
Ants are both very large and numerousj and those who succeed
in establishing a kitchen garden, and in enjoying the fruit of
their labor thus bestowed, consider themselves very fortunate.
OUYTFIT Ft OR HOND UIJAS.
Having found that we made more than one mistake in this
respect, will state that our linen clothing, was found not suited
to the climate, as we were frequently uncomfortably cool, and it
would have been better if thin woolen material had been selected
instead. We were induced to purchase "Moccasins" at Belize,
and found them to be of little service, though they are worn by
men engaged in cutting for export the woods of the country, and
by a very large proportion of the natives. If we had provided
ourselves with a pair of good boots, it would have been much
better. We also found that cotton socks did not answer a good
purpose, and it would have been better had we been provided
with those made of wool.  It is best to have all articles that are
to be carried to San Pedro, in packages of one hundred pounds,
when it can be done, as two hundred ~pounds is a load for a
mule,
American silver coins, with the exception of dimes and half
dimes, pass in both British Honduras and Spanish Honduras,
for their full value, and in British Honduras 2-1 per cent is allowed for American Gold'coin in making purchases, in conformity to law of the country, though it can frequently be sold
for 3 or 4 per cent. The English shilling will pass for as much
as an American quarter, which fact having been ascertained by
us before we left New Orleans, an ample supply of that coin
was provided.
The town of Omoa has less than one thousand inhabitants,




SPANISH HONDURAS.                   121.
and contains no buildings worthy of note, most of the houses
being one story,'thoughl some are covered with tiles and some
with corrugated iron.' The system of cleanliness in operation at
Belize, isuniknown here, and even hogs are slautghtered in the
streets.
Commandant of Omoa.............Gen'l Phil. Espinoza.
American Consul....................Charles Follin.
Belgian and British Consul................J. F. Debrot.
Frenclh Consiul................... —.  St. Laurent.
ONCTi3SION.
Though it would be pleasant to continue these plages, and give
a more detailed account of the fruits, Vegetables and minerals of
the lands we visited, yet, feeling that we have alr'eady written
too much to simply convey an idea of the country,'must draw to
a clos.: It has been' o ur purpose'from beginning to end, to give
ta fair and dandid-statemeAit of facts, and to endeavo'to enable
all,:to'see'as wu'esaw, feeliing satisfied they can draw  satisfactory
inferences therefrom.  Much' has" beeii written concerning Hon.
duras, that presented'the appearance of speculation, aniid not
uinfrequently by Sjpeculators, and comparatively little information of a -:detailed character has been given, which induced
us to adopt a plan that we hope will not fail to convey. a
better'idea of the country than has up to this time been attainable without mniakig a trip.  This, to the best of our
Lbility, we have endeavored to do, even at the risk of repetia
Lion. Whatever may be the pecuniary condition of people,
ye saw  no one in Honduras, who' left' the United  States,
vhose condition in that respect appeared enviable, and met but
mne person who llad more money than he.arrived there with.
)n the contrary, the enmigranut lives in the simplest mlanner, and
11




].22                 SPANISH IHONDURAS.
we- were informed by a gentleman at San Pedro, who was in' a
position of indepedence once in the States; that for many days' his
f-amily had lnot been provided with. meat, and that  he had "no
money even to purchase many articles' of prime necessity,. much
less one of luXurytlthough beef can be bought for three cents
per pound and pork at the same price.. It is true a very great
mistake' w.'as  made -at.San. Pedro, in  plahting-  cotton to the
almost entire exclusion of every thing else,. aid the crop being
destroyed by the Army Worm, and all their means being exhausted, they were compelled-throu gh necessity to exercise the
most rigid economy. Very few  have - thus far erected houses.
and are. now payingD for buildings of one room, from  5 to 8 dol,
lars per. month.
It has been said of both British and ISpanish Honduras, that
certain -crops can be made of a given quantity, and two crops ir
a- year without cultivationo This brings up for consideration tbh
fitness of those countries for agricultural and Horticulturu'
purposes. We have already stated there is much good. land t
be'found, but we saw a much -larger proportion than we ex
pected' of what seemed very sandy. -All seeds and plants must b
planted at the commenceient of; or during tfihe" rainy' seasoi
"which in a great measure prevents cultivation on account of rab
if continuous,'and we are of the opinion -that if, cultivation
carried to the'same extenit it. was in the' States before the: wa
and all grass and weeds -removed, the sun wvill in many localitih
so parclh the soil, that-btit: little will. be produced whei'e mu(
may be expected.' This is; not liable to be the case with suga
cane, rice, the'plantain nor banaia i the fii'st' two covering t'
ground witli a mass of vegetation, and the last two entire
shading it ai'ofind the trecs' with tieir broad leaves and'thlere
retainling, mnoiiture in tilhe eat:h.  It is the ellstom li-w ith t




SIPANISJH HONDURAS,                   123
natives to cultivatt   a piece of ground for one or two years, anld
then,to. cle-tr anotlher field, and abandon the first, as it is often,
easier to clear a new  piece than the old, on account of the
growth which makes its appearance  on a field that has been
planted being more difficult to remove.   Aunother_ reason was
given.by those who have had experience in cultivating that soil,
which was, that in a very:few years the soi-l becomes exhaustedl
to some extent, and it:would prove more profitable to change.
How will it be with sugar-cane, that (as is'lhe case with all
plants containing saccharine matter),  draws vce'y heavily o
the soil? In IHondurpas there is no rest for land that is planted
in cane, for as Soon.as a cane is:cut another springs up regardless of season, and we would ask, will not this constant and
excessive drain soon exhaust one or' more constituent elements of
the soil, necessary to the growth of the plant? There is no land
so rich that it will'never become poor, and good cultivators of
the soil have always found it to be profitable to rotate crops,
and to feed their land before it becomes hungry and to rest it
before it became weary.  In the United States,' vegetation is
iilled by frost, but in Honduras there is a constant growth of
iomething- on the soil,-which is greater on land under tendance,han on that covered with its primeval growth.
There can be no question that the " Eternal Su1mmer " which
)revails in Honduras will be monotonous to a degree that will
)rove anything but pleasant.  To us, autumn has ever been the
aost interesting season of the year,' the sere and yellow leaf' inicating a repose of the vegetable kingdom, and never failed to
"waken thoughts of a pleasant. character, and feelings of reveir
nce.. The sighing  of'the winds of winter through the lattice,
ae:cheerful fireside, with the domestic scene it is unnecessary
) describe, -make a picture most of us are familiar with, but is




124                  SPANISH HONDURAS.
lost, fobrever lost to the emigrant in Honduras, though it can
never be forgotten. The beautiful scenery constantly before the
eye at San Pedro, must in the course of time lose its novelty,
and cease to impress the mind as at first, and draw  forth on
certain occasions remarks of a similar character to one we heard
from  a gentleman who had for some time resided in Honduras
wrhich, was "We can not live on beautiful scenery."  What a
volume was expressed in these fewv words, and in the mournful
manner in which they were uttered! In conversation with old
residents of Belize, they invariably expressed their surprise at
persons locating on the coast of that country, which they stated
had been attempted from time to time, without profit or health
attending the honest and persistent efforts of those who selected
that portion of the country. M-ost of those persons who left this
country with the view of making Honduras.their future home,
did so because of the unsettled condition of affair. at the South,
and under belief that any clime would prove better than the one
they were leaving, on which point a very great mistake has been
made, and we undertake to say without hesitation, that a. large
number would return at once if they were in possession of
sufficient means to enable them to do so. Many on leaving their
homes either "swore in their wrath," or affirmed in their agony
that they would never return, which will keep them away, whatever obstacles they may be called upon to remove, or privations
they may have to endure. We have in our mind's eye several
gentlemen of edication, great energy, and influence, who are in
this position, and will they not succeed in keeping many ir the
country whtio if left to exercise their own judgement would leave
at an early day? While many are leaving the "' land of theii
birth," because of the character of the Government under whiclh
they are living, or we might say the almost entire absence o




sPANmISH HONDURAS.                  125
Government, would it not be well, first to examine into the
character of the Government they are about to remove to? And
on the point of social equality, which is to some a hideous phantom, that at times threatens to assume the density of a solid,
would it not be well to exercise a little thought before packing up?
In closing, we indulge the hope that if hereafter any should
select the countries of Central America in order to benefit their
condition, that they need not necessarily undertake the movement without some information that will be more valuable to
them  than any we were able to obtain before leaving New
Orleans. And if we are the means of preventing disappointment
or suffering, even to a limited extent, our purpose will be more
than accomplished, and our most sanguine expectations realized.
While we give no advice, having studiously avoided doilg,
so, we would regret to hear of persons leaving this country without sufficient means to cinable them to return. For to be thrown
upon a distant shore, aiong people with w\liom   e have few
thoughts or feelings in common, and to be compelled to remain,
if a favorable impression is not made, is a condition we have never
experienced, and cannot describe, but which would be anything
but pleasant, particularly if women and children should be of
the number. Our task is done, and we can honestly say was
undertaken more for the purpose of benefiting our fellow citizens than for any other reason, and in accordance with what
many friends have been pleased to call the exercise of a Christian duty.












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