ATLANTIC AND TRANSATLANTIC:
SKETCHES AFLOAT AND ASHORE.
x.: 1,  I 1
BY CAPTAIN MACKINNON, R.N.
AUTHOR OF "STEAM WARFARE IN THE PARANA."
NEW YORK:
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,.
329 & 331 PEARL STREET,
FRANKLIN SQUARE.
1852.
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INTRODUCTION.
ENGLISHMEN usually flatter themselves with a notion
that they look upon all foreign countries without prejudice; and they believe they are thoroughly conversant
with the peculiarities of every nation on the face of the
globe.
No doubt, a large portion of them have a general insight
into the habits of the nations of Europe, and a cursory
knowledge of Oriental countries; but of many other portions of the world they are profoundly ignorant. This defect is very strongly marked in the upper classes of English
society, particularly with regard to the United States of
America. - The educated American, on the other hand,
which includes nearly the whole native-born population,
is a strong contrast to the Englishman. Many Americans
are fully acquainted with England, in the most extended
acceptation of the term.
Such were my impressions, when I determined to visit
the great American Republic; and I may truly assert,
that, after a sojourn among our transatlantic brethren of
fourteen months, I am more than ever confirmed in my
opinion.- Not a year passes, but numerous active, ambi 
INTRODUCTION.
tious, and intelligent young Americans cross the Atlantic,
and traverse England from end to end. No novelty, no
ingenious or useful invention, escapes their shrewd ob servation. The knowledge thus acquired is speedily acted
upon, and brought into profitable use, throughout the
length and breadth of the vast and fertile regions of the
United States. It frequently happens that, in a few
months, the English invention returns to us with material
improvements before it is generally known and adopted
in England. As this policy is totally neglected by the
English, the result must be obvious to the most careless
and indifferent. That is to say, Brother Jonathan is
rapidly going ahead, and leaving England behind in all
useful and scientific pursuits-an effect not to be wondered at, as he has the advantage of the experience of
both countries.
The civility of Americans is very striking to a stranger,
especially to Englishmen, as it is exactly the reverse of
their expectations. Very few indeed, who for the first
time visit the States, do not, in ignorance of the people,
think they will have to encounter republican bluntness or
rudeness. But, on the contrary, Americans are courteous
and obliging to all. It can not be denied, however, that
they have some of the prominent faults of the Saxon race;
of which inordinate self-esteem can not escape observation.
This characteristic fault, which they partake with the
English, is in a great measure hidden among us at home
by a reserve, growing out of the insuperable barriers of
social distinctions, and is only offensively shown forth on
occasions favorable to its development. In America, on
vi 
INTRODUCTION.
the other hand, it is "let out" at every opportunity in
private intercourse; and the glorification of the " Stars
and Stripes" is a necessary ingredient at all public meetings, if the orator intends to succeed.
Little is known in America of English gentlemen. This
is easily accounted for, as it is a rare thing for an Englishman of independent fortune, to visit the States.
Brummagem gentlemen, therefore, frequently pass as
the genuine article to the great depreciation of the
class in the Yankee mind. Let it not be supposed that
all Americans are unprejudiced about Englishmen. It
can not be denied, that among our transatlantic brethren,
a very few may be found who look upon an Englishman
with blind and stupid dislike. For the credit of the
intelligence of America, however, we should say not onetenth part so many as are to be found in England who
blindly under-rate the Americans.
I have endeavored, in the following pages, to give a few
slight sketchy details, about the United States, and Brother
Jonathan, as he is at present. I say at present, for the
improvement is so general and so rapid, both in people and
country, that a very short time may render these pages an
unfaithful index of the giant Republic. I must acknowledge, that I look back at my sojourn in the States with
great satisfaction; and am sure that I shall not lose a
single friend among the many I was fortunate enough
to acquire in America, because I speak exactly as I conscientiously believe. My endeavor has been to write
an honest book, without prejudice for or against either
country.
vii 
INTPRODUCTION.
Of the "Miscellaneous Narratives," the second appeared
in " The United Service Magazine," the others in " The
New Monthly."
In publishing the present work, I have been encouraged
by the approbation of my friend, Charles Ollier, whose
literary opinion not only admits of no dispute, but whose
assistance and advice have often contributed to success.
LYMINGTON, MIay, 1852.
viii 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
CHAPTER I.
NEW YORK.
The "Empire City:" its Population, Site, present Prosperity, and former
Disasters-Overthrow of the United States Bank-Influx of precious
Metals-England and America-Health of Americans-Disregard of
Prudence in Sanatory Matters-An enchanting Procession-" Just over
the Furnace"-Energy and Strength of American Workmen-Singular
Taste for living in Basement Floors-Premature Decay-Quick Per  ception of Americans  Anecdote-Extreme Sensitiveness to Foreign
Opinion-Physical Decadence of the Saxon race in America-American
Servants-Unfounded Notion  of "Republican Rudeness"-Erroneous
Demeanor  of Englishmen in America-New  York  Hotels-Dinners
and Balls in private Houses-American Matrons-Zinc Paint-Polit  ical Prospects of America-Letter from a distinguished English Gentle  man.
NEW YORK, or, as the Americans who dwell in it love to say,
"The Empire City," can not fail to excite the interest and wonder of a stranger. If we glance from the commencement of this
century to the present time, we can not help being amazed at
its rapid progress. Its population was estimated in November,
1850, at 725,000 souls, exhibiting a, rate of increase equal to
100 per cent every sixteen years. Should this proceed in the
same ratio, the inhabitants of New York will, in twenty-five
years, be equal to the present population of London, namely, two
A* 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
millions. At the end, therefore, of the present century, it is
not too much to say that New York will be as large as any city
on the face of the earth! A recent Scotch author having surveyed the enormous metropolis of Great Britain, and estimated
its population, happily called it "the London eation."  The
time may soon arrive when the term "nation" may, with equal
felicity, be applied to New York.
It is impossible for the imagination of man to conceive a finer
site than is possessed by "The Empire City."  A  tongue of
land, jutting forth into deep water, and protected by the curved
point and islands which form New York Bay, present altogether
such facilities for commercial purposes as the world can not
rival. Added to this, the magnificent Hudson gives access to
regions more magnificent still; and pours, in a ceaseless stream,
the countless wealth of the most fertile portions of the earth into
the bosom of the city.
Trhe wonderful prosperity of New York, and the violent fluctuations in the value of real estate, deserve some notice. Prices
at the present time, are somewhat higher than those which existed in 1836, the period of the former great crisis. There are a
few situations, however, in the lower part of the city which
have fallen in value much beneath the rates of those days.
The property in the upper part, taken as a whole, is considerably higher than in 1836. In certain situations, especially on
the Fifth Avenue and its vicinity, as also on the borders of
both rivers, the prices are sometimes even 300 per cent higher
The basis, however, on which the present prices stand, is essentially different  from the former period.  In 1835 and 1836, a
spirit of blind speculation, amounting to mania, seized upon the
inhabitants, and lasted some years, until disasters, which ought
to have been foreseen, burst the speculative bubble with a fearful explosion.
The first mischance was the fire in 1835, by which the city
10 
NW YORK.                      11
sustained a loss of at least twenty million dollars (four millions
sterling). The consequences were scarcely felt at the time; but
were soon fully developed by the contest between the government  and the United States Bank.   The overthrow of the
latter came with crushing effect upon the public, and, like the
Philistine temple of old, shaken down by Samson, fell
" With burst of thunder
Upon the heads of all beneath."'
In 1837, occurred the severe commercial crisis in England;
and its consequences extended to the most remote parts of the
TUnion. The city of New York was the first victim, sustaining
a loss of more than fifty millions of dollars (ten millions sterling).
This was caused entirely by the financial calamity in England,
and the complete prostration of credit among the State Banks
and individuals of high financial position in the South and West
Alarmed and crippled by these successive disasters, it is not
to be wondered at that those who had capital were anxious to
nurse it.   An  unprecedented accumulation of deposits conlsequently took place in the private banks. At this time, money
could scarcely be obtained at any price, or on any description of
security. The panic continued until 1844, when a reaction took
place, which has steadily progressed until the present moment.
In the interval between 1844 and 1851, the population has
doubled itself; and the circulating medium has more than
doubled itself. The influx, likewise, of precious metals proceeded
so rapidly as to set at defiance the quackery of political financiers. Commerce was enormously and profitably extended; so
much so, that, with ordinary care and prudence, no serious or
permanent interruptions may be anticipated. Still it can not be
denied that the great and sudden rise in stock and shares, shows
somewhat of the speculative mania of England in 1846.
The United States Bank, which once controlled the merean
NEW YORK.
11 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
tile transactions of the country, is, as already stated, defunct;
and the banking system of the States is thrown open to a fair
slid healthy competition, founded on actual, and not imaginary
resources. The position of the United States of America is such
Is to render her a very valuable friend, or a dangerous enemy,
an the case may be.  Any hazard of collision between England
and the United States is, however, not worth a thought. The
good sense of the community in both countries is combined to put
down agitators, who wickedly and selfishly try to create "political capital" by heart-burnings and dissensions between two great
)people, who, above all others in the world, are united by every
tie that binds nation to nation.  Long may this continue
No stranger landing in New York, can fail to be painfully
struck by the pale, wan, slight, and delicate appearance of both
men and women.   After residing some time in the country, and
acquiring a knowledge of their habits, instead of being surprised
that so many of them die prematurely, one is astonished that
they manage to live as long as they do, or look so well.
In a lecture recently delivered in New York by Dr. Fitch, it
is rnentioned, as a striking fact, that in the States only four out
of every hundred individuals live to the age of sixty. In England, however, he asserts that seven out of every hundred attain
that age.  Still, though the climate in the latter country is
warmnner, and more temperate, it is much damper, and has all
those atmospherical and other conditions which contribute to
produce an immense amount of consulmption. The people are
so confined and closely packed-millions live so poorly, and in
such miserable habitations-that a far greater tendency to the
,above disease exists in England than in America.   Why then
s.hould a greater mortality prevail in the United States? The
;.ason is to be found in the different habits of the people. In
-,,gland, the experience of the old is reverently regarded, and
.aken as a guide; while in America, experience is but little
I , 
NEW YORK.                       13
estimated, and the young consider themselves more knowing than
their fathers. The result is, that they often find a fool for a
teacher, and die prematurely for their presumption.
The average of human life in the city of New York, reaches
only to twenty-five years; some years it runs up to thirty.
A few instances which have come under my own knowle(dge,
show such utter disregard of common prudence and common
sense, in reference to health, that I can not avoid mentioning
them, in the hope that my friends in America may read and
profit by these home-truths. A beautiful and intelligent, but
rather faded American lady of twenty-six years of age, was complaining bitterly of the infirm health of herself and her little son,
about nine years old. In the course, of a long conversation, it
transpired that she rarely went out of doors, never solely for
exercise. Her rooms in winter were not suffered to be at a
lower temperature than 70~, and they were often above 90~.
She was in the habit of eating a hearty meat breakfast; meat
again for luncheon; and a third time at dinner. If by any
chance she took a walk, either during wet weather or dry, she
had nothing to protect her feet but light and thin shoes, such as
an Englishwoman would be considered almost insane to appear
abroad in. Who can wonder at her delicate health or faded
beauty?
"But your little boy," said I, "what sort of a life does he lead
to make him so tender?"
"I fear to let him out at all," she replied, "he is so delicate;
and his appetite is quite gone."
"Do you, then," pursued I, "keep him all day in this stifling
stove heat?"
"What else can I do?" she ejaculated with a sigh.
As I had previously seen this young urchin play a tolerable
knife-and-fork when his mother was absent, I determined to
watch him narrowly, and examine his diet. I had not long to
NEW YORK.
13 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
wait; for on the succeeding day, I peeped into the room where
luncheon was prepared, and perceived the "tender chicken" re gale himself with the following danties, after he had first looked
carefully round to see that the coast was clear. Taking up a
small pitcher, he poured some molasses into a plate, then cut a
large slice of butter, and mixed it well with the molasses.
"You nasty little beast!" exclaimed I to myself; "that is a
capital receipt for bile, indigestion, and other complaints of the
stomach."
Seizing a spoon with one hand, he looked about the table with
an anxious eye. Suddenly he pounced upon some pickles, and
having amalgamated them with the other ingredients, he commenced eating this hideous mess. I was quite overcome with
anger and nausea, and rushed out of the room to inform his
mother. To my intense astonishment she was not at all surprised, but appeared to consider the exploit as a matter of course.
This is, perhaps, an exaggerated example of the great error
in diet prevalent at New York. It can not, however, be denied
-indeed the citizens themselves admit it-that life in this city
is materially shortened by too full a diet, especially of animal
food, and the neglect of fresh air and exercise.
Another practice fruitful of disease and death, is the habit all
classes have of wearing the same amount of clothing in every
season of the year. They make no allowance for the weather;
and, wet or dry, wear the thinnest and lightest covering for the
feet. It is difficult to purchase in New York a pair of thick
English shooting-shoes.
I was enjoying a cigar one Sunday forenoon in the smokingroom of the Union Hotel, of which more anon. A close and distinct view was afforded of the crossing at the head of Broadway,
and I beheld a stream of people proceeding through Unionsquare to Calvary Church, to hear the celebrated Dr. Hawks.
My attention was first attracted by the beauty and elegant pro
14 
NEW YORK.
portions of the ladies, and the costly dresses they wore. It is
impossible for a man (women would be "at home in it") to
describe the exquisite texture of these garments, which were
extremely long, and trailing on the ground. Onward swept the
enchanting procession.   Not one lady attempted to raise the
folds of her drapery from mother earth; but, regardless of miud
and wet, they all tripped daintily along, with their little (almost
shoeless) feet sullied with liquid mud.   I could not help "moralizing on this spectacle:" sad it was to reflect that, in all human
probability, many of these lovely and fragile hot-house plants
were sowing the seeds of fatal maladies. Thick shoes and English habits, would fortify them against the consequences of exposure to a sudden shower. But to sit in church all bemired and
bedraggled, betokens a recklessness of health perfectly astounding.
The following evening, several of these ladies attended the
Opera.   Again they were arrayed with admirable taste and
lavish cost.  I was sitting with a party of three, who, complaining of the heat, wished the box-door to be opened. As soon as
the performance was over, they did not hesitate to go bareheaded into the open air, although the thermometer was about
zero. Their extremities were almost completely exposed during
their walk home over frozen snow, having carelessly dispensed
with their carriages. How is it possible to expect health and
strength, when such liberties are taken with the constitution?
On one occasion, during an evening visit to a celebrated literary character, the present writer (" albeit unused to the swooning mnood") being seized with sudden faintness, was supported
into the open air. On his recovery and return, he was coolly
informed that he was the third visitor that day who had suffered in the same manner.
"How unfortunate!" exclaimed the host; "how unfortunate!
You all took the same position just over the furnace."
The furnace! Only imagine the effect of this infernal blat
15 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
upon the human system!  By such constant "demi-baking,"
the New York ladies become, when within doors, painfully susceptible of the slightest breath of air. Their nerves are gradually affected, and the brightness of heaven is offensive. This
feeling causes them to shut out light as well as air, and makes
a large number of gorgeous drawing-rooms, dark and dismal
traps to break the shins of unwary visitors.
There can be little doubt that the climate of the States, from
its exceeding dryness, has a tendency to emaciate the human
frame. I do not believe, however, that it is prejudicial to health
and longevity: indeed, all the people whose employment is in
the open air are remarkably wiry, healthy, and strong. Close
and suffocating rooms, want of exercise and air, and the heating
nature of the diet-these are the influences which cause early
loss of teeth, dyspepsia, wan looks, and all the concomitants of
an enfeebled frame. I am grieved to say that this appears to
be the case with a large majority of the population of New York.
The extraordinary energy and strength of the workmen must
not be overlooked. It is an ascertained fact that, in ship-building, the men average nearly twice the quantity of work per
diem as in England. Carpenters, painters, and all other operatives, toil in like proportion.   The price of labor, therefore,
although nominally much more than that in England, is in
reality less for the amount of work do1(-e.
It is difficult to account for the fancy which many persons
have for living in basement floors.   The  upper apartments,
decked with the utmost splendor, are deserted, unless on state
occasions, for the dismal, gloomy, and cave-like ground-floor.
If Americans could be persuaded that these apartments in England are generally used for kitchens, it would have a tendency
to break this uncomfortable habit.
Robert Knox, the able author of "The Races of Man," asserts, that " Unider the influence of climate, the Saxon decays in
16 
NEW YORK.
Northern America and in Australia, and rears his offspring with
difficulty; he is transplanted from the soil in which he could
physically thrive. Were the supplies from Europe not incessant, he could not stand his ground in these new continents. A
real, native, permanent American is a dream which can never
be realized."
The above is quoted from memory.
There may be some foundation for these remarks; but I
imagine that the "forcing-pit, hot-bed" life led in America, is
the chief cause of premature decay.   Little doubt, however,
can be entertained that any native of the United States, whose
blood for three generations has not been refreshed from Europe,
and whose immediate ancestors have lived in cities, bears unfailing signs of the Saxon or Celtic American.   Firstly, the
early loss of the subcutaneous adipose cushion; secondly, the
decay of the second teeth before they are fully grown; thirdly,
the premature appearance of age; and, lastly, the small number of the progeny, and the few even of these reared to maturity.
Perhaps, however, as the corporeal degenerates, the mental may
increase in strength and activity. Waller, the poet, writing of
the infirmity of age, says, very finely,
" The soul, with nobler resolutions decked,
The body stooping, does herself erect."
And it might easily be imagined that this spiritual influence
would enable the spare and attenuated Yankee ax-man to get
through a large amount of physical labor.  "Will you tell me,
Master Shallow," asks Sir John Falstaff, derisively, "how to
choose a man? Care I for the limb, the thews, the stature,
bulk, and big assemblanee of a man!  Give me the spirit, Master Shallow." Place an American ax-man alongside the most
Herculean and practiced English woodman, and it would be seen
that the Yankee would do double the work, with less labor and
17 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
greater ease. This also may be the reason why American arti ficers are the quickest and most skillful in the world. So alert
are their perceptions, that they are impatient of verbose com mentaries. Many Europeans consider this impatience to be in attention and rudeness. I have often heard complaints of this
nature from prosy Britishers; such as, "Why, sir, I was giving
that damned Yankee important information; and the rude fellow
would not attend to me, but bolted." Most likely the Yankee
had anticipated the whole matter, and had levanted to take im mediate measures to put the ideas thus suggested into practice.
I have seen extraordinary business-proceedings of this rapid
and summary nature. For instance: I was acquainted (at an
hotel) with an agreeable and gentlemanly American, who had
just discovered on his property huge beds of coal, of which the
seams are forty feet thick. He was then occupied in forming a
company to work them, and eventually succeeded. At the hotel
he chanced to fall in with another gentleman, who had invented
a steam-boiler of great merit. In five minutes, they understood
each other's projects perfectly, and had exchanged shares in their
respective concerns. Just as these preliminaries were arranged,
a third individual joined them; and after a few words of explanation, understood the whole thing.  Pulling out his pocket-book,
he spoke as follows:
"I'm off to England to-morrow, I guess.  I will take out a
patent for the steam-boiler in London, and pay all expenses, if
you will give me a right to half the profits there."
" Done, done!" all round; and the business was settled.
These parties had never met before, and were utterly ignorant
of each other's existence!
Truth compels me to acknowledge, that the mind of Americans
is the keenest and most adaptable in the world. They acquire
information of any kind so rapidly, and have such ready dexterity
in mechanical employments, that the very slightest efforts put
18 
NEW YORK.
them on a par with Europeans of far greater experience. They
do not, however, possess much of the English "stability of character." The consequence is easily foreseen: they have the faults
of quick and ardent temperament, and are satisfied to rely upon
their almost intuitive perceptions; rarely making themselves, by
careful study, thoroughly masters of a subject. Generally speaking, they have a wonderful stock of miscellaneous information;
but it is mostly of a superficial character. Not one American
out of a hundred applies his mind to sift thoroughly any abstruse
subject. If such a man appears on the stage of life, he is sure
to take a powerful and original position in any undertaking with
which he chooses to grapple.
The chief reason of the extreme sensitiveness of the Americans
to foreign opinion, particularly that of England, arises from an
instinctive dread of the decadence of their race on the continent
of America, which will likewise satisfactorily explain the intolerable aversion Americans express, and no doubt entertain, for
the negro blood. How can they possibly feel otherwise, when
one great physiological fact is constantly pressing on them;
namely, that the Celt and the Saxon breeds are undeniably,
however slightly, depreciating, while the negro flourishes as in
an indigenous soil? I do not adopt Knox's opinions entirely. I
do not think the American continent so unfavorable to the Celt
and Saxon as he infers; but imagine the mischief may be attributed, in a great measure, to the insane physical education of
the young, as hinted at in these pages; and the extreme neglect,
or, rather, I should say, contempt of the adult, for all the common-sense precautions for health, often successfully and systematically carried out in the mother country. As a singular corroboration of my opinion on the erroneous physical education of
the young, I will mention a sign that is patent to all, if they will
only use their powers of observation. I allude to the deep red
color of the children's gums. Nine-tenths of the juvenile Amer
19 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
icans appear to have a chronic inflammation of the gums. I had
abundant opportunities of observing this fact, as I was living while
in America with a large family of English children. The difference in the color of their gums, as compared with American
children, was quite remarkable. A pale blue, with a slight tinge
of red, denoted health and coolness of blood in the English infant;
while the inflamed appearance of the American child's gums as
surely indicated the hot-bed, forcing nature of its physique, arising
chiefly from too much flesh food. There can be no doubt that
this heated state of the stomach drives the system to early maturity, and as a necessary consequence, to early decay. It is
very difficult to account for so erroneous and fatal a mode of life
among a people so remarkable for keenness of perception, and for
so large a share of common sense. They are well aware of these
facts; and therefore evince great irritation and impatience when
strangers allude to them. The general answer to questions on
this subject is given in a petulant and evasive manner.   "Oh,
our teeth will last quite long enough; we don't want to live too
long." Now I can not help thinking that such hasty answers
are thoughtless and shallow, particularly as the evil, in my opinion, can be almost entirely removed.
It is common to hear bitter complaints of the badness of servants in America   This is quite a fallacy as regards wealthy
people, who can procure excellent servants if they choose to pay
for them. The usual number of domestics in New York houses
is far less than in England. They are expected to do much more
for the same wages, and are naturally dissatisfied.   Let the
American gentry follow the English custom of engaging particular servants for particular duties, and the evil they complain of
will speedily diminish, particularly if they hire a sufficient number of servants to make the work tolerably easy.
It is hardly possible for an Englishman (who has only read
of the States) to arrive in any one of them for the first time with
20 
-~~~~~F YOK.
out some little apprehension of the supposed "Republican rudeness" of the citizens. The moment, however, he lands, this apprehension leaves him. He feels at once, almost by intuition,
that he is among as civil people as any in existence. This, of
course, only if he keeps a civil tongue, and does not offend their
prejudices, which are not more marked in the States than in
other nations.
An American citizen will listen to any argument with attention and courtesy, as long as he believes you to be sincere, and
not actuated by the depreciating spirit unhappily so common
with Englishmen when traveling in the United States. Although
our transatlantic brethren are intensely national, I have always
found them just and fair to those who meet them on the same
terms. I have heard abuse of England, certainly; but it was
always excited by the vulgar remarks of ill-informed Englishmen.
The exaggeration which many travelers attribute to the American character, is the result of a lively and ardent imagination on
the part of the people. This they will readily admit, if urged
with gentleness and moderation; and I have frequently, by goodnatured banter, made individuals correct with a smile, exagger
ated statements in which they had previously indulged.
Few, if any, English authors have given a just estimate of an
Englishman's chances in American society. The Americans are
warrantably proud of their country, and feel a just resentment
against prejudiced foreign authors who, laying stress upon minor
points of etiquette and good-breeding (such as eating with a knife,
chewing tobacco, and so forth), have carefully kept silent respecting their admirable schools and local institutions; their plain
common-sense arrangements; their freedom from humbug and
from absurd restrictions. This feeling makes Americans cautious in their first intercourse with a stranger, particularly if he
be an Englishman. They are too proud to make the first advances; and a reserved Englishman, with the best letters of in
NEW YORK.
21 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
troduction, will find himself in an awkward position if he adhere strictly to European etiquette. But if he have the sense to
break the ice of formality, and is truly a gentleman, I promise
him great success in American society. No people on earth are
keener, or quicker, or better judges of a gentleman, than Americans.
I fell in with a reserved but most worthy English gentleman,
who had been some months in the States. He complained bitterly that, although be had brought excellent letters of introduction, they had been of no avail after the first formal civility.
"I never," said he, "met with so haughty and precise a set.
They don't appear to care a farthing about me."
"And whose fault," I asked, "is that?"
"Why theirs, of course," replied he.
Your manner," I rejoined, "does not convince them that you
are anxious to cultivate their acquaintance. You must alter it,
and be more cordial. You will then succeed."
My prognostications were verified by the result; and my friend
soon making a large and pleasant circle of acquaintance, speedily
altered his opinion of American society.
The Hotels in New York are a remarkable feature, and excite
the astonishment of a wanderer from Europe by their enormous
size. Many of these huge establishments are capable of affording accommodation for six hundred persons. During the year
1850, most of them (and "their name is legion") were crammed
to suffocation, their proprietors realizing large fortunes. This
overflow of business has caused some of them to increase their
charges, and treat their customers with indifference. A gentlema from Europe having taken up his abode at one of these
large houses, was rather alarmed at the prices, and after two
days' experience, addressed the clerk as follows:
" Sir, I shall remain in New York for several months; and,
I think you might make some reduction in yourcharges."
22 
NEW YORK.
The clerk continued writing without looking up; and, after
a pause, replied: " Not a cent, Sir. Not a cent."
My friend, somewhat disgusted, left the hotel immediately.
Another gentleman who went incautiously to a large Broad way establishment, without making a bargain, found that his
week's bill amounted to 180 dollars; equal to ~37. A member of Congress informed me that on his way to Washington he
stopped three hours in bed at the Astor House, and was charged
for his brief nap one and three-quarter dollars (nearly eight shillings). Thus it appears that the citizens are victimized equally
with strangers.
The cookery is admirable in these hotels, which are far more
comfortable and better conducted than in Europe: it is, how ever, desirable for a stranger to live at the public table. Here
he will be struck by the absence of conversation. The solemnity
is contagious. A very distinguished Englishman lived for six
weeks at the New York Hotel; and, although two hundred persons sat down to dinner daily, not a single word was addressed
to him during the whole time!
The Union Place Hotel, although comparatively small, is one
of the most comfortable I was ever in. As the statistics may be
amusing, I venture to put them on paper. The house has a
hundred and sixty rooms, and can accommodate two hundred
persons. The charge for board and lodging for one person, is 22
dollars, or lOs. 10d. per day.  Families, however, can be accommodated with private rooms at any price up to 300 dollars a week
Ten cooks are employed, and, as may be seen by the bill of fare,
good ones too. Sixty men as waiters, fire-makers, boots, laanpcleaners, &c. Cost of provisions: 50 dollars daily, equal to
~10. 8s. Rent per annum: 12,000 dollars, or ~2250. Gas:
2000 dollars, or ~420. Croton water: 200 dollars or ~40.
Cannel and anthracite coal: 3000 dollars, or ~600.  Total expense of this establishment: 200 dollars, or ~40  a day.  The
23 
TOUR IN AMEIICA.
situation of this hotel is admirable. Warm baths are attached
to every suite of apartments.
Although on a small scale, this is undoubtedly the most comfortable hotel in New York. The Irving House is three times
larger, and of course accommodates three times as many persons. Such a constant crowd and bustle can not, however, be
agreeable to strangers. It is much the same with the other
large establishments.
As a specimen of the viands, I give the "bills of fare" of both
hotels; assuring my readers that the cookery is remarkably good
in each.
BILLS OF FARE
Irving House, Oct. 29, 1850.
Multton soul)
Baked black-fish, champagne sauce.
Boiled: ham i bacon; tongue; smoked jowl; mutton, caper sauce;
chickens; corned beef.
Roast: beef; veal; pork; chickens; lamb.; geese, apple sauce; ham,
champagne sauce.
ENTRE E S.
Filets of beef, champagne sauce; chicken pies; pork chops; weak-fish;
fricandeau; roast robins; calves' head;  lambs' fries; rissolles of chicken;
maccaroni a l'Italienne; ducks braise6s with olives; chicken salad.
Game: roast wild ducks, cranberry sauce.
Pastry: farina pudding; quince pies; apple pies; Italian cream  almond
cake; Cond&.
Dessert: Brazil-nits, apples, filberts, raisins, Madeira-nuts, hickory.
nuts, grapes, almonds.
Thirteen kinds of vegetables.
Union Place Hotel, Jan. 9, 1851.
Soup, Julienne; sish: smelts; boiled chicken. cele-ry sa-uce: corned beef
and cabbage.
24 
N-W YORK.                      2I
COLD DISHES.
Oyster pie.
Baked maccaroni.
Ham.
Pressed corned beef
ENTREES.
Grouse piques, sauce Madere; pigeons a la Flamande; cotelettes d
veau pan6e a l'Anglaise; laperaux sautes aux fines herbes; canards domestiques aux olives; pieds de veau en marinade~ canards sauvages rotis,
sauce au vin d'Oporto; poulets saute a la Marengo; tete de veau en tortue;
blanquette de veau an c6lery; fillet de mouton piqu6 a la pur6 de navets.
Roast: beef; mutton, cranberry sauce; goose, apple sauce; turkey; veal;
capon.
Game: wild turkey.
Pastry: whortleberry pie, mince pie, gel6e au Xeres, sago pudding, cranberry puffs, jelly cakes, ice cream.
Dessert: apples, Brazil nuts, almonds, oranges, raisins, filberts, pecan
nuts, figs.
Ten kinds of vegetables.
There is no city in the world where household furniture is so
gorgeous and highly decorated as in New York. The Americans,
however, do not understand society so well as it is understood in
Europe.  The grand dinners in private houses are truly magnificent, and are generally supplied by contract. No doubt this system saves trouble and annoyance in the household, but it is
extremely expensive. As a general rule, the hospitality of the
table is less practiced than in England; none but the wealthy
being able to entertain their guests in what is considered the
proper style. Moreover, they do not understand the art of making a dinner-party pleasant, chatty, and agreeable. The lady of
the house generally goes in after her husband, leaving the company to follow as they best can. This certainly is not as attentive as if the lady came in last, according to English custom
After the cloth is removed, cigars are lighted, and the wine is
passed round, as in England.
Nothing can exceed the delicacy of the wine and viands
B
INEW YORK.
25
HOT DISHES. 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
Madeira, of enormous value, that has been ten, twenty, and
even fifty years in bottle, is introduced; but this wine, although
keenly relished in America, rarely suits the palate of a newlyarrived Britisher.  When a dinner-party is given, no pains or
expense is spared to make it perfect; and it is no more than
justice to the entertainments of New York to assert, that they
are superior in wines, viands, lighting, and general splendor, to
those either of Paris or London.
At a grand ball, given in one of the best arranged and most
tasteful houses in America, one dish at the supper-table cost
forty-two dollars, equal to ~8 12s. As every other arrangement
for six hundred guests was on a similar scale, it is easy to imagine the enormous expense. Should any of my readers be curious to know the composition of so costly a dish, I am able to
acquaint them that it was compounded of English pheasants,
doctored up with truffles and other dainties. As the expenses
of this ball alone would have amply supplied a dozen in Europe,
to the great gain of society, so lavish an outlay of money prevents numerous parties of the same nature. Americans dislike
to be outdone in any way; and this creates an ostentatious feeling, which materially affects the sociality of New York. At the
above-mentioned ball, there was a show of diamonds that it
would be difficult to match in England, except upon a state
occasion.
There are two things to be seen in New York so pre-eminently
exquisite that no Englishman ought to pass through the country
without witnessing them. Let him, then, get admission to one
of the "Upper Ten's" balls. Let him, as soon as supper is announced, hie to the supper-room, and there feast his eyes until
they wink again upon the beautiful American girls. The cxertion of dancing has created on their cheeks a gentle bloom,
heightened into the most animated loveliness by a bumper of
champagne. When his eyes ache with enjoyment, let him at
16 
NEW YORK.
tack the next relay of roasted "canvas-backs," * and fill his
mouth and feast his eyes alternately. This is true epicurism,
which a man can never forget, and of which he is not likely to
grow tiled.
Two anomalies in American society struck me forcibly; and I
do not think I am betraying the kindness and hospitality with
which I was treated in naming them. In the first place, ladies
are seldom invited to a great dinner-party; the lady of the house,
therefore, is frequently the only female present. Sitting at the
head of the table, she is solely occupied in attending to her
guests. The gentlemen, talking loudly and earnestly, appear
almost to forget there is a lady present. The lady herself is
in a false position, and clogs, though not quite prevents the
usual hilarity of a bachelor-party.   I have mentioned this
matter to several American ladies, and they fully agree with
me. I venture to "guess" that this inconvenient custom will
soon cease.
Secondly, I have been much surprised, at the magnificent and
luxurious fetes, to perceive that elegant and beautiful married
women-wlao, in Paris or London, would be the centre of attraction to all the talent and esprit of society-are left alone, and
comparatively unnoticed. These charming American matrons
do not hold their proper place in society.  They allow-themselves to be pushed aside by boys and girls, and become mere
lookers-on. The latitude allowed to " children let loose" is a
bane to American society; and I fully believe that the greater
proportion of thinking people in America agree with me. I have
witnessed painful scenes, enacted by young American boy-men,
at the close of grand entertainments in New York. I will not,
however, annoy my kind American friends, by publishing that
of which I am quite sure the actors are heartily ashamed.
* A delicious duck, so called, peculiar to the United States.
27 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
Every lady in New York receives calls on a certain day in
each week. From an early period she is dressed en bal costumie,
and devotes the whole day to entertain any friend who chooses
to call. This is a sensible custom, and enables strangers, if
they choose, speedily to become personally acquainted with
society.
The American people do not give their attention and devote
their energies exclusively to politics, commerce, and speculative
enterprise in the rapid formation of new cities; but are anxious
to rival the old countries in domestic elegance, and other refinements of social life. Among many instances of their ingenuity
they have invented a new kind of paint, produced by a certain
admixture of zinc, which, in its application to doors and shutters, covers them as with a surface of white porcelain-hard,
polished, and apparently durable as marble.   The lustre and
whiteness of this pigment imparts a grace to the interior of
fashionable houses in New York, which would be vainly sought
in the best mansions of England.
Respectable  Englishmen are extremely rare in New  York
and I fear some of my countrymen have not left a very good
impression. Very many pay flying visits, and are famous for
the "mighty haste" with which  they rush "helter skelter"
through the country. Living at private tables, and aloof from
the inhabitants, how can they form a just opinion?  A few well
educated and gentleman-like Englishmen, without prejudice,
temporarily residing here, would correct many erroneous impressions. They would enjoy the trip much more, and learn and
see much more than could be afforded by a tour in Italy or the
East, except classic remains. Tile East, for the most part, is a
world defunct: the West is a world, to come. It is high time
that the young men of England should know and understand
the practical working of the institutions of this great country.
It is high time that the willful blindness and ignorance of those
28 
NEW YORK.
who ought to know, and who really do know better, should be
dispelled.
In twenty-five years from this time, as before asserted, the
population of New York will be equal to that of London at this
period. In twenty-five years from the present time the United
States will have a population of above fifty millions.  Not, be
it nrioted, a population like that of Europe-namely, one-third
absolute idlers and drones, and another third starving by illpaid labor-but a population the whole of which are working
as if their lives depended on their exertions. Writh such intense
action, such marvelous energy and enterprise, such powerful
means of combination, if actuated by any strong excitement,
they will become morally and physically irresistible. It behoves all intelligent lovers of their country to be prepared for
the grand result to which every American confidently looks forward; a result that must follow sooner or later from the enormously increasing wealth and power of the great Republic.  I
allude to the modification of the old forms of government, and
an amelioration of the social evils of Europe.
No person who calmly watches the working and progress of
this wonderful country, can avoid the conviction that the above
result is only a question of time. Let, then, the intelligence of
the old world be prepared to meet that which no earthly power
can fend off. Tle extreme desire of every American to preserve
the Federal Union is a remarkable fact. It is one of the strongest points in their nationality, and renders, for some time to
come, the maintenance of the present form of government more
certain than that of any government on the surface of the
globe.
An English literary gentleman, whose works are known and
respected wherever civilization extends, has given the following
opinion upon the United States of America, in a letter to one of
his friends in London, dated " New Haven, Connecticut, 27th of
29 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
October, 1850." I agree so cordially with the spirit evinced in
this passage, that I can not help transcribing it.
"This is a very wonderful country; and no Englishman that
I know of has done justice to it; nor, indeed, do the Americans do justice to it themselves. We all think that, in point
of polish, and the accumulation of conveniences, and even of the
conventionalities which grow gradually upon old lands, this
country, only two centuries and a half old, ought to be on a par
with others where civilization has been going on with a steady
progress for more than treble that period; and we are disappointed when we find any small particular deficient. We go to
see a new building and are surprised that we do not find Westminster Abbey. Then we abuse it, not for what it is, but for what
it is not.  But, my dear 0, in passingf through this land, one
sees no poverty, no squalid wretchedness, no hovels with windows stopped with rags and old hats. Great good-humor, too
is visible every where among the people: each man seems to
feel that by industry he can get on as well as another; and
each is willing to help another. There is little of that jealous
rivalry, none of that irritable envy that we see in older lands,
where we are all struggling for a portion of that bread which is
not sufficient for the whole. There is undoubtedly an eager
craving for money.   It is not only the whole land that is
making its way upward, but every individual in it. Each man
is encouraged by a probable hope of fortune, and each man seeks
it with eagerness; but every one holds out his hand to the one
lower than himself on the ladder, and tries to help him up too.
The carping at small faults and petty annoyances which many
of our countrymen have displayed, and the overlooking great
advantages, and even great virtues, shows no philosophical spirit.
The things I mention are on the surface-open to every eye: no
poverty, except among Irish immigrants  general good-humor
and good-will; a wide diffusion of education; a certainty of
80 
NEW YORK.                        31
industry producing competence, and of industry and talent acquiring fortune. One great advantage of this country is, that
here circumstances are comparatively powerless; that they can
not exercise such an influence upon a man's fate as in Europe;
that it is more in his own hands. Doubtless there is much that
I object to; doubtless there is much which may and will be improved; but, depend upon it, this is a great and extraordinary
country; and England must not sit still contented, if she would
not be pushed from her stool."
NEW YORK.
31 
CHAPTER II.
BROOKLYN DOCK-YAID.
Huge Dry Dock-Men-of-war-Improvements in Gunnery, as carded out in
Her Hajesty's Ship "Excellent," immediately known in America-The
"Saranac" and "San Jacinto"-Promotion in the United States Navy
-Discouraging Prospects-Resignations of American Naval Officers  Abolition of corporal Punishment in the U.S. Navy-Its Effects-High
Character of American Naval Officers-Amazing Progress of the United
States-Grain-elcvator-Ferry-boats from New York to Brooklyn, &c.,
contrasted with the Steam Ferry from Portsmouth to Gosport-A Launch
of three huge Vessels in one Day from Webb's Ship-building Yard  The Clipper-fever-Mr. Steers the Ship-builder-Qualities of Clipper  ships-Vessels built by Messrs. Inman, of Lymington, Hants-Amer ican naval Architecture and Rigging-Comparative Performances of the
four great Steam-ship lines between New York and Europe.
THE United States Navy-yard at Brooklyn, a suburb of New
York, is the second in importance in the country. It is situated
on Long Island, opposite New  York, and at present occupies
about fifty acres of land. Like all things in this wonderful
nation, both public and private, it is in a state of rapid improvement, and contains perhaps the finest dry dock in the world.
This beautiful work has just been com.pleted, in the face of extraordinary difficulty; the foundation having to be secured in a
shifting quicksand. The dimensions are, length three hundred
and sixteen feet; breadth one hundred and three feet. To clear
the water from this vast basin, a huge engine is in preparation
(since completed), and is calculated to draw off the water in
three hours. 
BROOKLYN DOCK-YARD.
Several fine specimens of men-of:war are lying here; and one
is on the stocks-the "Sabrina," forty-four.  This vessel, from
s me unexplained circumstances, has been twenty-seven years
building, without any immediate chance of completion.
A magnificent corvette, the "Germantown," rated as twenty,
but carryingf twenty-four guns, deserves some description. She
carries eighteen thirty-two pound guns of forty-seven cwt.; and
four sixty-three cwt. eight-inch guns.  As  all the recent improvements in gunnery carried out in the " Excellent" at Portsmouth, are immediately known at WAVashington, she has the advantage of them, with such improvements as the'cute Yankee
mind might suggest.  For example, the gun-locks are simpler
and more perfect than those used in the English service. We
are informed, upon unquestionable authority, that no new implement of war is elaborated in England without being immediately
known to the authorities in the United States; and we are told
that the commission of naval officers, now sitting at Washington
to re-organize the naval ordnance and gunnery exercise, are
assisted materially by the experience of men educated in Her
Majesty's ship " Excellent."
"It all leaks out, I guess," were the words used by one of
the most intelligent officers ill the American navy; and there
can not be any doubt about it.
The  sisters, " Saranac" and "San Jacinto," are models of
architectural beauty.   The "San Jacinto" is intended for a
screw, and the "Saranac" for a paddle-wvheel steamer.  These
beautiful vessels are one thousand five hundred tons each, two
hundred and thirty-three feet over all, thirty-eight feet beam,
and seven hundred and twenty horse-power.
The armament intended for the "San Jacinto," rated in the
iavy list as carrying six guns, will enable her to cope with
almost any vessel afloat. She is to carry sixteen broadside eightinch guns, fifty-seven cwt. each. and two pivot guns weighing
33
B* 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
onre hundred and seven cwt., forward and aft, of the same
calibre as the broadside guns; and the vessel is fitted in such a
nlainer that both pivot guns can be used at either extremity.
The crew of both steamers is composed of two hundred and fifty
men; and four hundred tons of coal can be stowed under hatches.
At full power, they use about twenty-five tons a day; but, by
cutting off the steam and working by expansion, they can go
ten knots, and carry fuel for thirty days; or expending fuel at
the rate of about fourteen tons a day. The usual speed of the
paddle-wheel steamer, " Saranac," is from twelve to fourteen
knots.  As the engines are not yet fitted to the " San Jacinto,"
the speed can only be a matter of guess. The American officers,
however, are very sanguine as to her performance, and expect
great speed. Each vessel carries her guns twelve feet above the
deep load mark, namely, seventeen feet.
At present, the "Saranac" mounts only six guns; but in case
of active service has room for six more. Since her experimental
cruise, she has been fitted with a light "hurricane-deck" between the paddle-boxes, of which the American naval officers
approve extremely. On the top of this deck are stowed the
hammocks on shelves alongside the paddle-boxes. This expedient obviates the necessity of hammock-nettings, and permits a
light movable rail to surround the side.
There are not at present any means of raising the screw in
the "San Jacinto;" but no doubt this will soon be obviated.
The promotion in the United States navy being strictly by
seniority, it can not be denied that, as a body, the officers have
greater experience in naval affairs than those of the same grade
in the English service. It is equally clear, however, that some
change must take place, as the lists are getting so crowded, that
promotion halts lamentably. Of the sixty-eighlt captains, the
senior has been fifty-two years in the service; the junior thirtynine.
34 
BROOKLYN DOCK-YARD.
Commanders, ninety-seven in number; the senior thirty-nine
years; junior, thirty-two years.
The following extract from the Navy Register of the United
States, will afford some interesting information.
"The number of lieutenants allowed by law is three hundred
and twenty-seven. Of these, one quarter are on shore-duty connected with the dock-yards, shipping-rendezvous, &e. Threeeighths afloat on foreign stations; and about the same number on
leave or waiting orders in consequence of sickness or other causes.
The number of masters in the line of promotion is but eleven;
one-fifth the number necessary to afford one to each vessel in
commission.  In consequence of the small nur'of lieutenants,
junior officers are frequently called upon to perform their duties.
"In the Mexican war, a midshipman performed the dutdes of
executive officer of a sloop of war-the number of lieutenants
being insufficient to answer the exigencies of a sickly climate.
The number of passed midshipmen is two hundred and thirtythree; the average number of promotions to the rank of lieutenant has been during the last nine years, twelve and a half per
year. These gentlemen have rather discouraging prospects; the
seniors being in their fourteenth or fifteenth year of service. By
way of illustration, let us take those standing about the middle
of the list, and who entered the service in 1841. We find they
can not be lieutenants for nine years to come; while those at the
bottom of the list are unable to get promotion under nineteen
years.  Most of these latter gentlemen have already served ten
years, and their age is probably about twenty-si.x; consequently,
under the most favorable circumstances they must be (seniors)
thirty-five, and (juniors) forty-five, before they are lieutenants;
the last year serving as masters.   In the mean time, their situation is a trying one, neither their duties or position being defined.
They are subject to many vexations and annoyances, as their
grade is not settled by law or regulation.  This condition is cal
35 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
culated to cause discouragement to the most sanguine temperament, and to destroy all zeal in the duties of a profession to
which they have devoted the best years of their lives.
"The average number of promotions, during the last nine
vears, to the rank of commander, have been only five per year.
As the majority entered at fourteen years of age, the officers of
this rank must be from forty five to fifty-three years. As there
are ninety-eight on this list, the juniors can hardly expect further promotion.
"If we take the liberal allowance of fifty per cent for casualties in the lieutenants' list, the past mid. may, at the age of
eighty-one, have command of a brig or corvette.
"The youngest lieutenants of the present day are older men
than most of the captains in the war of 1812. Decatur, when
he re-took the Philadelphia, was but twenty-five; and when the
' Macedonian' was captured, but thirty-three. McDonough, at
the time of the victory of Lake Champlain, but twenty-eight.
Perry, at that on Lake Erie, twenty-eight.  Lawrence, when he
took the'Reindeer,' was but thirty-three; and the same year
he fell, in command of the' Chesapeake.'  Can there be a doubt
that the'boy officers' of the war of 1812, were quite as efficient
as the old men of the present day?
Some measures of refornm are imperatively called for to revive the drooping es})rit-de.cor}os,'and to place in responsible
situations men who are in possession of every faculty in full
vigor.
"We shall not then see, among other anomalies, gray-headed
young gentlemen, who say,'To be good for any thing, we
should have been promoted years ago.'
From the above data, it is clear that, unless some comprehensive system of retirement is established, very few of the lieutenants can hope to gain a step.  This slow promotion is not the
only disadvantage against which the United States Navy has to
I
-36 
BROOKLYN DOCK-YARD.
contend. Let a man be ever so active and distinguished-even
let him make the most gallant and successful capture against
any odds —he can not get promotion.
The chances in private life of acquiring wealth and positior
in society are so great, that it is wonderful how the country cat
command such able and gifted men as the majority of the
United States officers undeniably are. There is no doubt that
the army and navy are not only considered to be, but are, the
aristocracy of the country.  Still, the devotion to those services
is a heavy price for an untangible advantage.
From June the 1st, 1849, to the end of the year, the following resignations took place in the United States navy: six lieutenants, one assistant surgeon, seven passed midshipmen, thirteen midshipmen, two boatswains, one gunner, one carpenter,
one sailmaker, eight engineers, one navy-agent, one timberagent.  Total, forty-two officers.  And these resignations, be it
remembered, took place with all amount of pay considerably
more than in the English service.
The recent order to abolish corporal punishment in the United
States navy, without providing any substitute for the purposes
of correction, is almost universally looked upon by the officers
with dismay. It is not too much to anticipate some frightful
disaster-some horrible massacre-rendering a second "Somers" example necessary.   As a slight specimen of the effect
already produced, it may be well to allude to what happened to
a large frigate, the "Constitution," which, on arriving in New
York Bay, was immediately deserted by a hundred and sixty of
her crew. As these men had upward of three years' pay due,
which could not be withheld, and knew that no adequate pullishment could be inflicted in the few days that would terminate
their period of service, they became quite indifferent to disci,line.  The outcry against corporal punishment, is mainly up held by persons utterly unacquainted with the hard necessities
37 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
of discipline. Truth was distorted to prejudice the public against
bodily punishment; and the number of lashes inflicted on one
of the crew of a frigate was multiplied by nine (the number of
tails to the cat), to excite public execration against it: unhappily, with too much success.
The officers of the American navy, therefore, have a very difficult game to play. They are expected to keep their splendid
ships in order, without adequate means of coercing the crews.
It is not too much to say that, as a body of men, the officers
of the United States navy are second to none; indeed, it would
be extremely difficult to find so large a proportion of educated,
enlightened, and well-informed individuals in any service. The
manners and customs in their ships are precisely the same as
in English men-of-war;  and their kindness  and cordiality to
Englishmen, particularly naval officers, is extremely pleasant.
Long may this continue!  And may it be reciprocated between
the two nations.
Among the numerous officers of the United States navy, with
whom I was fortunate enough to become acquainted, was one so
remarkable for intellect and manly candor, that it was impossible not to like him. Two days before my departure, he was
suddenly called to his last home. As sepulture is immediate in
America, the funeral ceremony took place the following day, and
I was invited. My last act in the States was accordingly one
of mourning. It was, indeed, a touching spectacle, and gave
rise to grave and solemn reflections as I marched up the aisle of
Calvary Church in company with a crowd of American naval
officeers.
An unprejudiced mind can not avoid being struck with amazement at the progress of the United States. Whichever way the
eye is cast it is met with unmistakable signs of rapid progress
and improvement. Magnificent houses rise as if by magic;
mammoth ocean-steamers are completed with astonishing (e
38 
BROOKLYN DOCK-YARD.
terity; their sharp entrance through the water giving convincing
testimony of their prodigious speed. River-boats. nearly four
hundred feet long, appear to glide like meteors on the surface of
the Hudson and East river. Place one of these on end alongside St. Paul's Cathedral, and its foremost extremity would
nearly reach the noted ball and cross! The first object of interest was a large ship, which was being loaded with wheat for
Europe. To accelerate the introduction of the cargo, a grainelevator was employed. This novel machine pumped the grain
from barges, or canal-boats on one side, in a continuous stream
into the ship's hold at the rate of two thousand bushels per hour.
It was not only passed into the vessel at this prodigious rate, but
likewise accurately measured in the operation. American naval
officers have taken a hint from this ingenious labor-saving contrivance, and successfully adapted it to the purpose of supplying
powder with great speed and regularity to the batteries of large
ships; thereby saving numerous hands that could be better employed in the other parts of the vessel.
What are those huge castles rushing madly across the East
river? I see at one time five steam ferry-boats wafting carriages
and passengers from New York to Brooklyn, Williamsburg, &e.
Let us cross in the "Montauk" from Fulton ferry and survey the
freight. There are fourteen carriages; and the passengers are
countless, at least six hundred. Heavens, what a pace she rushes
over! her powerful engines vibrate to one's very marrow.   Onward she darts at headlong speed, until, apparently in perilous
proximity to her wharf, a firightful collision appears inevitable.
The impatient Yankees, heaven help them! crowd, and press,
and struggle to get to the extreme edge of the vessel, and be the
first to jump ashore. On the wharf is a dense crowd more impatient, if possible, to jump aboard. Forward dashes the vessel,
while the uninitiated quake with apprehension at the horrid crash
which seems inevitable.
89 
TOURP IN AMERICA.
A  loud "twang" is suddenly heard, and then a bell.  The
powerful engine is quickly reversed, and the way of the vessel
so instantaneously stopped, that the dense mass of passengers
insensibly lean forward from the sudden check. Before she is
secured, an avalanche of jumpers have crossed one another,
penetrating with a rush the crowd of passengers on board, and
the expectant passengers on the wharf.
Accidents frequently happen, and lives are sometimes lost;
but certainly ilo blame attaches to the boats, as they are handled
in the most careful and masterly style.
The "MAlontauk," "Manhattan," and " Bedford," are the vessels now working on the Fulton ferry. They are admirably fitted
with light, airy, and warm rooms for passengers, each passenger
having a partitioned seat.  A large cabin is set apart for ladies,
another for gentlemen, who smoke there if they please. The
fare, one cent (a halfpenny). I have been told that these boats
cost about 30,000 dollars; equal, in round figures, to ~6,000.
In economy, beauty, commnodiousness, and speed, they form a
striking contrast to the steam-ferry from Portsmouth to Gosport;
as it has been stated that the latter cost ~20,000, or 100,000
dollars.
The author strongly advises persons in Europe, who have any
intention of projecting steam-ferries, to take a leaf out of the
Yankee book. As an example: if the Portsmouth ferry had been
conducted on the same principles as the Fulton ferry, a very large
profit would have ensued, instead of the concern being overwhelmed in debt; and the inhabitants of Portsmouth and Gosport would have had something. to be proud of, in lieu of a miserable and clumsy abortion.
Let us now take an example of' Yankee go-aheadisnt. We
will depart from the Union Place Ho'?el, and march down Seventh-street.  Long before we arrive at the East River, we perceive tall and tapering spars, extending far above the houses.
40 
BROOKLYN DOCK-YARD.
Streamers and flags are abundant; but above all, and eclipsing
all, are numerous magnificent "star-spangled banners."
A launch is about to take place.
Open your ears, 0 ye John Bulls!  Listen to the truth fiotn a
brother Bull. "Read, mark, learn, and inwardly digest."
We are now in Webb's ship-building yard.  Look around-five
huge vessels are on the stocks; three are to be launched at highwater. Let us examine them.
First, the "Isaac Bell," of 1708 tons, is intended for a Havre
liner.  She is built for running, and, with a fair wind, will outsail any man-of-war afloat.
Second, a steamer, the "Illinois," of 2500 tons.  So sharp is
she from the cutwater, that it involuntarily suggests the same
painful idea to the mind as on first beholding Langham Church
steeple, in Portland Place, London. - Her midship section is perfectly flat, which causes an unsightly protuberance amidships,
that offends the eye when looking along the bottom.  Like most
of Brother Jonathan's sea-steamers, she does not come up to John
Bull's idea of sufficient strength of construction; still, every fair
and unprejudiced Britisher must allow that, for models, the
Yankees, as they express it, "whip the world." They do not,
however, build their sea-steamers strong enough. The reason is
obvious: hitherto their experience has been mainly with riverboats; and although they have some of the finest-looking craft
of this denomination ever seen, many of them are utterly iunsafe
and unsound. The lighter a river steamer is built, the faster
she will go; the less water she will draw; and it is a notorious
saying, in reference to certain boats on the Mississippi, "the engines are intended to wear out three hulls, if the vessel don't
blow up."
This impeachment of American judgment will not last long.
Brother Jonathan has received a warning which he is not the
man to neglect; and we may confidently look forward to his
41 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
producing sea-steamels as stable and fast as, if not faster than,
any that can elsewhere be built.
Go ahead, brother-go ahead! You are the greatest benefactor your old mother ever had. The venerable lady begins to
discover that "she doesn't know you're out."
Third, the "Gazelle," a gigantic yacht, of 1500 tons.  She is
nearly as sharp as any yacht in England; slightly fuller in the
midship section. Her model is perfectly beautiful.
Here is a launch indeed; and by one builder!
At a quarter before twelve o'clock, January 21, 1851, the
dogs-shores of the mammoth steamer, "Illinois," were knocked
away. In a few seconds, she glided majestically into the East
River (properly Long Island Sound), amidst the exultant shouts
of many thousands.  After a short interval, the "Isaac Bell"
followed her example; and, lastly, the enormous yacht, "Gazelle," was sent gliding beautifully into her element. Never,
probably, has such a launch happened in one day; most certainly
inot from the yard of one constructor.
Read the tonnage again, John Bull; and mind, it is no fable.
Five thousand seven hundred and eight tons were launched from
one builder, and within thirty minutes!
Since the above was written, the clipper fever in the United
States is quite over; and well it may be. If we only take the
result of two years' trial of perhaps the most successful clipper
in the States (the "N. B. Palmer"), we shall have most lamentable results.
This magnificent clipper earned an immense freight between
New York and California.  She then proceeded to China, and
was chartered to London and back for ~6 10s. a ton. These
voyages will take about twenty months or two years. The owners do not expect to net more than 25,000 dollars (~5000). This
will not by any means pay for wear and tear.
I was much struck at perceiving two vessels lying side by side
42 
BROOKLYN DOCK-,YARD.
at a wharf They were both ready to discharge cargoes of teas
from China. One was a clipper, and had been a considerable
time in the port; the other was a round-bottomed, old-fashioned
Boston vessel. Although the clipper had distanced the Boston
craft eighteen days, the latter began to discharge her cargo first.
Moreover, the Boston vessel carried a cargo three times greater,
in proportion to her tonnage, than the clipper, at about one third
the expense. I venture to predict that few clippers will be built
for the future, unless any great improvement in build and speed
be discovered, which is likely to take place in consequence of the
great success of the "America" yacht.
Mr. Steers, the intelligent builder of the latter vessel, is about
laying down a clipper of 2000 tons. The estimated size is as
follows: length 233ft., breadth 48ft., and she is to draw, when
deep, 20ft. Mr. Steers is very sanguine that he will produce a
faster vessel than has yet plowed the seas. He expects that, if
allowed to "pick his time" within six months, the new clipper
will achieve a speed of eighteen miles an hour. From what I
have seen of this model, I am inclined to agree with his sanguine
expectations. This vessel will stow as much as, or more than any
clipper proper afloat, and will, no doubt, be as superior to them
all in sailing as the "America" yacht was to the English yachts,
which, by the way, are the prototypes of the Yankee  clipperships.  If such turns out to be the case (of which I have little
doubt), the first of these clippers will, I hope, make a better thing
of it than the " N. B. Palmer."
The ship yards in New York show a striking contrast to the
activity prevalent in them a year ago. They are now comparatively deserted. I have been informed by a large ship-owner
that timber is 30 per cent cheaper, and wages materially lower
than a year ago. In fact, the market for the sharp and expensive "clipper proper" is overstocked; and it is the opinion of
experienced men in the States, that, unless some new and pow
43 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
erful impulse is given to trade, two thirds of the clippers will
lose money.
The clipper-ships, although certainly the finest class of vessels
afloat are very uneasy in a sea. They are likewise said to strain
violently, and from this cause make water, and damage their
cargo. If a class of clipper-vessels, such as Mr. Steers proposes,
is built, they will be as much superior in sailing as easy in their
motion, and will thus  secure so great an advantage that they
must completely distance the old clippers in all respects. The
yacht "America"' is superior on these points, as well as in every
respect, to the English yachts, which are excessively uneasy
in a sea, and draw an inconvenient draft of water, The great
merit of Mr. Steers, as the builder of the' America,' -is, in his
having invented a perfectly original model, as new in America
as in Europe. In some of the long conversations I have had
with him, he informed me that this idea, so successfully carried out in the "America's" model, struck him when a boy of
eiffght years old. He was looking on at the moulding of a vessel by his father (an Englishman), when suddenly it occurred to
him that a great improvenment might be made in the construction; and the  iowdus operandi speedily took possession of
his mind.
The first vessels he constructed on the full extent of his improved lines were the pilot boats, "Moses Grinnell" and "Mary
Taylor," and it is my deliberate opinion that the " Cornelia"
yacht, or either of these vessels, though under a hundred tonls,
are more than a match for any yacht in England
Mr. Steers thinks that a shallow vessel, with a sliding keel,
can be built to out-sail any vessel even on his improved model.
This is likely to be tested next summer in England, as a slcop,
the " Silvia," built by Steers on this construction, is preparing to
try her speed at Cowes next season.  I carefully noted this craft
when on the stocks alongside the "America," and I believe that
44 
BROOKLYN DOCK-YARD.
no vessel in England has the ghost of a chance against her.
Next year will, however, decide the question.
England is not likely to remain long behind Brother Jonathan
in yachting, as the following list of vessels, building at the justly
celebrated Messrs. Inman, of Lymington, will plainly prove.
First, the" Alarm " is lengthened twenty feet, with the American, or wave-line bow. She will be schooner-rigged, and of the
burden of 240 tons.
Second, two schooners, about 75 tons each.
Third, a very beautiful schooner of 150 tons. The Messrs.
Inman have taken time by the forelock, and are more openminded than the builders of this country usually are. I have
carefully examined these vessels, and plainly perceive evidence
of great genius and artistic skill. They will be formidable
rivals to any yachts that Brother Jonathan may in future send
over the Atlantic.
American naval architecture is, without doubt, very admirable, whether we take the sailing qualities of their vessels, or
their symmetry of form.  I spent some days at Baltimore, carefully examining the different varieties of clippers. On one occasion, I observed a group of these fine models surrounding an
English coaster.  The contrast in proportion was most marked.
The hideous English coaster, surrounded thus, was like "a young
donkey grazing amidst a herd of gazelles."
The English ship-builders have a great deal to learn from
Brother Jonathan, not only in the fashion of build, but likewise
in the "fitting and rigging."  The modern-built American vessels are infinitely better fitted and ventilated than any British
ships which have come under my notice. The Americans speak
very highly of some ships constructed by G(Treen and Wigram,
which I have not had an opportunity of examining.
An American London liner is sailed with half the number
of men required by an English shirp cf the same size; and yet
45 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
the work is got through as well and as expeditiously. The various mechanical contrivances to save labor might be beneficially
copied by English ships.  For example, "gipsies," or small
windlasses, and the large " gipsy," or chain-lifter.  This very
useful mechanical help enables three men to manage, and easily
haul on deck, a huge chain-cable of the largest size.
The system of lower-rigging, likewise, I think a great improvement.  When an American ship is first rigged, the lower
rigging is much larger and stronger than is usual in England.
It is, however, intended and expected to last without lifting, as
long as the ship retains a first class letter on the commercial
list. This saves time and labor, and is found to succeed admirably.
The following is a condensed report of the performances of the
four great steamship lines between New York and Europe. In
comparing the average trips of the two main lines, namely,
Collins and Cunard, it will be seen that the latter are ahead of
their opponents on the eastern passages by about two hours; but
the former (Collins) more than make it up on the western
passages, their trips having been accomplished in fifteen hours
less than their competitors. The eastern passages of the Havre
line to Cowes average rather more than a day longer than the
Liverpool lines. They are also on the western passages twentythree hours longer than the Collins line; but only eight hours
behind the Cunarders.
The trips of the Bremen steamers, both east and west, have
been rather longer, having made only one trip in twelve days
during the whole year.
COLLINS line (eastern passages).   Total time of twenty-   Hours. Min. Sec.
four passages.................................... 267                   6   3()
Days. Hours. Min.
Average time each passage............................ 11   3  16
46 
BROOKLYN DOCK-YARD.                            47
Hours. Min. Sec.
Western passages.  Total time of twenty-five passages.    288   17  55
Days. Hours. Min.
Average time each passage........................         11  13  12
CUNARD line (eastern passages).  Total time of twenty-   Hours. Min. Sec.
one passages....................................  243    8   15
Days. Hours. Min.
Average time each passage............................ 11    1  26
Western passages.  Total time of twenty-three pas-  Hours. Min. Sec.
sages........................................... 279 23 10
Days. Min. Sec
Average time of each passage..........................12    5    1
IIAVRE line (eastern passages).  Total time of eleven pas-  Hours. Min. Sec.
sages...........................................135    8  30
Days. Hours. Min.
Average time each passage............................ 12    7  18
Hours. Min. Sec.
Western passages.  Total time of eleven passages..... 137  14  25
Days. Hours. Min.
Average time each passage............................ 12   12  13
BREMEN line (eastern passages).  Total time of ten pas-  Hours. Min. Sec.
sages.....................................            144   19    0
Days. Hours. Min.
Average time each passage...........................    14   11  38
Hours. Min. Sec.
Western passages.  Total time of ten passages.......... 146  17  30
Days. Hours. Min.
Average time each passage.......................          14  16  10
The following table shows at once the average time of each
line for the year. 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
EASTERN PASSAG'S TO EUROPE.           WESTERN PASSAGES TO NEW YORK.
Days. Hours. Min.                      Days. Hours. Min.
Collins line........11      3    16  Collins line.....   11    13    12
Cunard line........  11      1    28  Cunard line........ 12         4      8
Havre line.....  12     7    19  Havre line.....   12    12    13
Bremen line.......14    11    30  Bremen line....... 14    16    10
To this we will add the average passage of sailing-ships between Liverpool and New York. Bearing in mind that from the
wonderful improvement in marine architecture (wholly due to
"Brother Jonathan"), the passages both ways are gradually
shortening, as the model of hull improves, and the education and
science of the officers increases.
Eastern passages      Days. Hours.      Western passages
(average of all).....  32  12          (average of all)..
48
Days. Hours.
22 12 
CHAPTER III.
PHILADELPHIA.
Uninteresting Road-Immense Orchards of standard Peach-trees-Lank
and meagre Woods-Philadelphia-The Water-works-Fairmount-A
Boarding-house for Pigs-Overland Transport of ]arge Boats, with their
Freights, in Sections-School System of Philadelphia-Enormous Con  sumption of Paper ly ten Newspapers in the United States-The Dock yard in Philadelphia-TiThe Sectional Dock-Journey to Baltimore Railroad Carriages-Ingenious Scheme of General Green.
THE journey by rail from New York toward Washington is
flat, and destitute of any feature of interest, except the immense
orchards of standard peach-trees, which are pruned and kept in
excellent order. The trees are generally renewed every five
years, as the fruit is supposed to degenerate after that age.
Occasionally, lankl and meagre woods are passed, forming a
strong contrast to the clear and well arranged peach-trees, and
having beneath them a growth of underwood, principally composed of rhododendrons, which, however, are far inferior, in size
of leaves and luxuriance, to their congeners in England; probably from want of care and cultivation.
Philadelphia, although abounding in beautiful buildings, does
not "show forth" to much advantage; a defect mainly attributable to its site, which is nearly flat. The population of this
city, in 1840, numbered 300,000, and has increased in ten
years to 412,000, an increase chiefly attributable to the demand
for hands in the manufacturing establishments, as the foreign
trade of Philadelphia h)as fallen off. 
TOUR, IN AMERICA.
The water-works, which give an ample supply to the town,
are formed by a dam on the river Schuylkill, which raises the
river fifteen feet.  A  portion of the stream thus  confined, is
allowed to escape on several powerful water-w-heels, which revolving rapidly, pump up the needful supply into an immense
elevated reservoir.  The simplicity and great power of this contrivance is obvious to the slowest comprehension. From Fairmount, a very fine prospect is revealed to the gazer's eye. I
was wrapped in a mantle of pleasant ideas, on beholding this
fair and beautiful scenery, when my brown study was abruptly
disturbed by my companion-one of the kindly Yankees I had
the good fortune to convert into friends during my sojourn in the
States.
"Do you see that large, many-storied house?" inquired he.
"Yes," I replied.   "Who could help taking notice of so huge
a pile of building?"
"Well," continued he, "there is a story attached to that house,
which gives a good example of Yankee'cuteness.'
"Let me hear it, by all means," returned I.
Seating himself on a large stone, he related the following story,
which I give verbatim.
"Some years ago, a'cute Yankee rented that house, and set
up a distillery. After a year or two he became dissatisfied with
his profits, which did not exceed ten per cent. This he regarded
as a very poor return, hardly worth consideration. So many
others were engaged in the same trade, and so much competition
existed, that he clearly perceived his gains were more likely to
diminish than to increase.
"After considerable reflection, he determined to lower the
price of his whisky, and set up' a, pigs' boarding-house!' Accordingly, he commenced advertising to take pigs in at a certain
price. As his terms were considerably less than the swine cost
their owners, he was speedily overrun with boarders. The i;m.
50 
PHILADELPHIA
mense quiantity of grains produced by his increase of business,
consequent on his reduction of the price of whisky, enabled him
to make his boa7rdigyg-house a mine of wealth.
His arrangements were capital. Squeakers, he placed in the,
garret; porkers, next floor; and so on downward, until his premises round the base of the house were swarming with magnificent
grunters.
"Money came in apace; and fame soon followed.  In a few
years he had amiassed a considerable sum, and his business had
increased so much, that he had several acres of pig-styes, filled
with fat and contented grunters. Alas, for all porcine greatness!
The horrible odor of his boarders became unbearable. The
neighbors grumbled; then loudly complained;  and lastly, flew
into violent rage. Our enterprising pig-boarder was indicted for
a nuisance. His enemies prevailed, and this unique and luxurious establishment was broken up forever.
"He had, however, cleared a large fortune."
My friend having finished his narrative, we returned on foot
toward the city. On passing down Broad-street. my attention
was attracted by the figure of a man smoking his pipe, and apparently looking out of the stern windows of a decked vessel.
"Hallo!" exclaimed I, "what  can that  craft be doing on
land? Why, her stern is toward the wharf."
On approaching nearer, I perceived that it was the stern section-of a canal-boat. Three other sections were also there, all
mounted on trucks, ready to start, per rail, on their journey, to
Pittsburg. The vessel was one hundred feet long, and nine wide,
divided into four nearly equal sections; the bow and stern being
slightly longer than the midship section, in consequence of the
fineness of run. These divided compartments are loaded with
emigrants and with goods manufactured in Philadelphia, the
latter of which are forwarded, without breaking bulk, three hundred and sixty miles, The first hundred miles, they are con
61 
TOUPR IN AMERICA.
veyed by rail through Lancaster to the Susquehanna; thence to
a spur of the Alleghanies.  An inclined plane now takes hold of
the sections separately, with all their freight, and transports them
over a considerable elevation, the greatest height of which is fifteen hundred feet. Then, crossing the mountain-range, they are
launched peaceably into a canal, and again united; and after
being tracked or towed another hundred miles, are safely deposited in the town of Pittsburg.
Here is another specimen of the "go-ahead" system of Brother
Jonathan.   These full-freighted vessels are transported several
hundred miles overland, including two ranges of mountains.
There are numerous objects besides the above, of great interest
in Philadelphia; but, as neither time nor space is afforded to
chronicle one-tenth of them, I must unwillingly pass them over.
One of the most remarkable and admirable objects, is the
school-system of Philadelphia, which is deservedly considered
among the best in the world. The number and designation of
the several establishments are as follows: one high school, one
normal school, fifty-three grammar schools, twenty-nine secondary,
one hundred and thirty primary, and forty unclassified.  Total,
two hundred and fifty.  In these, there are 45,383 students.
And be it remembered that, with moderate abilities and perseverance, any student can gain access to the high school, where
the system of education is above all praise, and very far superior
to any college of which I have ever heard.
By the polite attention of Professor Hart, I was enabled to examiine thoroughly the different classes.  I can not sufficiently
express my admiration of the proficiency of the pupils, particularly in the classes of anatomy and physiology under Professor
McMurtrie, every student in which appeared to be thoroughly
conversant with the structure of the human frame. All that
choose can enjoy gratuitously the advantage of this or any other
class
52 
PHILADELPHIA.
The Hilgh School has eleven professors, of whom Mr. Hart is
the head.  These gentlemen give instructions in every branch of
education, embracing languages and spherical trigonometry. I
was much edified to hear boys, of thirteen years old, answering
questions with ease, that few grown persons under the old system of education would understand. or even dream of understanding.
To what an elevating effect must this admirable system of
education lead!  Here are 45,383 young persons (upward of nine
per cent. of the population of Philadelphia, namely, 415,000)
receiving a first-rate education.   As a still stronger proof of the
advantages thus derived, it may be mentioned that five daily and
five weekly journals in the United States consume alone nearly as
much paper as all the journals in Great Britain put together,
according to the American report, which asserts that all the paper
used by the public prints in England amounts to 175,000 reams
per annum.   In the United States, the" New York Herald,"
Tribune," and "Sun;" the "Philadelphia Sun," and "Baltimore Sun," and five weekly papers, use 136,000 reams.  There
are at present in the United States 2500 newspapers, and they
are ilcreasing at the rate of 60 or 70 per annum.
It is impossible for a seaman to leave any maritime city without a glance at its naval establishments.   The United States
Dock-yard in Philadelphia is of minor importance, as compared
with those of New York or Boston. It covers a surface of thirtytwo acres, and has a frontage of a few hundred yards on the
Delawvare River.
The only object of interest herein is the sectional dock.  This
vast fabric (one hundred yards long, and fifty wide) is divided
into several sections, each of which is of eight hundred tons
burthen. The whole is of enormous size; certainly the largest
in the world, being nearly eight thousand tons capacity. It is
calculated that the largest ship ever built can  be raised with
53 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
ease. In spite of the stupendous character and magnificent proportions of this gigantic work, I can not congratulate Uncle Sam
upon its utility or economy.   There is quite sufficient depth of
water to construct a stone dry-dock, and it is calculated that the
expense would be little, if any, more than that of the sectional
dock. When the enormous cost necessary to keep this huge
wooden structure in repair is considered, I think Uncle Sam
will have to pay very dear for his whistle. It is not too much
to assert that, in ten years, the present dock will require repairs, more than equivalent to the first outlay; whereas, a substantial stone structure would last for years, without any renewed
outlay whatever.
The journey to Baltimore is extremely "jolty," and, compared
to the English railways, very slow. The carriages, constructed
to hold about seventy passengers each, are very comfortable, and
not more expensive than a first class carriage in England, which
holds only eighteen. I therefore strongly recommend them to
the directors of English railways, as being not only more economical, but infinitely more convenient and safe; the conductor
or guard being able to communicate with the engine-driver, if
necessary.
Apropos of railways; the following remarks and ingenious
scheme of a Yankee (General Duf'i Green) may be interesting to
the English reader.  The portion referring to the post-office is
well worthy of note.
"It is estimated," says the General, " that nearly ten thousand miles of railroad are now in operation in the United States,
and that there soon will be at least twenty thousand miles. The
capital invested is more than six hundred millions of dollars
(roughly, a hundred and twenty millions sterling.) It is proposed
that the post-office department should make contracts with railroad companies for the perpetual use of their roads, and that, instead of being paid, as now, on contracts for a term of years, the
54 
PHILADELPHIA.
railroad companies shall receive an amount of 5 per cent. bonds,
chargeable on the revenues of the department; the interest of
which would be equal to the service rendered. Thus, we now
pay three hundred dollars per mile, per annum, for carrying the
mail on first-class railroads, which is 6 per cent. on five thousand
dollars, and which, at five per cent., would reduce the charge on
the department to two hundred and fifty dollars per mile per
annum, leaving fifty dollars per mile per annum as a sinking
fund to pay off the principal, which it would do in less than
thirty-three years.
The effect of this would be, to give the use of the railroads for
ever, free of all charge, and consequently to save to the department twenty millions of dollars (four million sterling) in thirtyfour years."
55 
CHAPTER IV.
BALTIMIORE.
The far-famed Baltimore Clippers-Gigantic Strides of Baltimore in Popu  lation, Wealth, Luxury, and Refinement-A freehold House possessed by
almost every Family-Situation of the City-The fashionable Quarter  Beauty of Baltimore-Ship-building and domestic Architecture-Society
in this City, and the happy Appearance of the Negroes-The Federal
Hill-Oyster-boats and other Vessels of Burden-TheBrig-of-war'Law rence'-Cheapness of Ship-building in Baltimore-Cotton-duck Sails Hospitality.
No person of any reflection, brought up to sea-life, can avoid
being extremely interested on approaching the town of Balti more.
It has been my lot, in various parts of the world, to fall in
with the far-famed clippers of this town. Whether in calms or
storms; under close-reefed sails, or with all the snow-white
"cotton-duck" canvas, courting the breeze, these vessels can not
fail to fascinate every beholder. Such graceful and elegant proportions have an exceeding charm for the true nautical eye.
Baltimore is a type of the great sea-board American cities
that is to say, it is advancing with gigantic strides in population,
wealth, luxury, and refinement. Ten years ago, the number of
its inhabitants was 120,000. Now, the population has increased
to 170,000. Although Maryland is a slave state, the working
classes are famous for their high moral standard, mainly attributable to the fact that each family, almost without exception,
possesses a neat and comfortable freehold-house of its own. 
BALTIMORE.
The city itself, one hundred and eighty miles from the sea, is
situated on undulating ground, on a branch of the Patapsco,
a  river which  ramifies  suddenly  into several  "cul-de-sacs,"
thus giving an immense water-frontage to this inland sea-port.
Taking advantage of the chances thus offered to them by the
bountiful hand of' Providence, the Marylanders have raised one
of the most elegant and well arranged cities, perhaps, in the
New World.
The fashionable quarter, situated around the fine monument
to Washington, is probably as striking to the eye, for its architecture, as any quarter of any city in existence. The plentiful
supply of marble in the immediate neighborhood, adds not a little to the general effect.
In every direction, large blocks of new buildings are in progress; giving ample proof that the good people of Baltimore are
moving onward with rapid strides.  It is impossible for any one
but a sailor to appreciate the exceeding beauty of their shipbuilding.  It is therefore truly gratifying to perceive that the
same faculty which produces the vessels, is extended to the
architecture of their houses. This is clearly indicated, not only
in the mansion of the wealthy merchant, but likewise the dwelling of the humble artisan.
The society of Baltimore has all the hospitality of New York.
A stranger can not divest himself of the idea that a greater
degree of refinement exists in Baltimore, in all classes, than in
most other cities in the Union. The happy, careless air of the
negroes is likewise remarkable. It is extremely difficult for an
Englishman, to "realize" that he is in a Slave State. As to the
fanciful pictures which an imaginative mind is apt to draw of
the misery and degradation of slavery, I.can only refer them to
the happy, good-natured, and "devil-may-care" appearance of
the slaves themselves.
Opposite the centre of the town, across a portion of the harbor,
c*
57 
TOUP IN AMERICA.
stands the Federal Hill, on the side of which is a singular geological formation, presenting a miniature representation of Alum
Bay in the Isle of Wight. The beautiful white sand, for which
the latter is famous, juts out of the earth in exactly the same
position, close to the water.
The Pongees, or oyster-boats, and the Chesapeake Bay coastvessels, are the most elegant and yacht-like merchant-craft in the
world. They are from sixty tons downward; and can be built
and fitted for sea under forty dollars, or eight pounds a ton.
It is remarkable that the vessels intended for the lowest and
most degraded offices (such as carrying manure, oysters, and
wood) are of elegant and symmetrical proportions.  An English
schooner from Bideford, was lying among some of the worst
Baltimore coasters. She looked like a hog amid a herd of ante
lopes.
The true Baltimore clipper, the ideal of perfection thirty years
ago, is now quite out of date. All the Baltimore ship-builders
have been gradually modifying their forms, but still retaining
their graceful appearance.
In the Washington navy-yard, there is a model of a large brig
of war, the "Lawrence," of about four hundred tons, built on
the old Baltimore-clipper principle. Being found to be a failure,
she was consequently sold out of the American navy. With a
slight difference in the shape of the forefoot and length of bow,
she is nearly the same as the yacht-schooner "America." Although a complete failure as a man-of-war, she proved herself a
remarkably fast sailer.
A merchant-vessel, on the clipper principle can be turned out
by a Baltimore builder for from ~10 to ~12 a ton, complete in
all her fittings.  This is much cheaper than in England; which
:]ipears unaccountable, as the wages of artificers, as well as most
rticls of ship-fittings are much more expensive in America,
wood being the only exception.
58 
BALTIMORE.
"Cotton-duck" sails are almost exclusively used by American
vessels under 300 tons.  No doubt can be entertained that for
fbre-anld-aft vessels, this material is infinitely better than the
canvas generally used.  I do not hesitate to assert that it is
particularly adapted for yachts; and that it will give a vessel
an immense advantage in sailing, particularly in light winds.
This "cotton-duck" is well worthy the attention of the yachtsmen in England. Indeed, for all pleasure-vessels it is far better,
being whiter, cleaner-looking, much lighter, and easier handled.
Above all, "cotton-duck" would cost only two-thirds of the present high charges for yacht canvas.
Adieu to thee, Baltimore! Famous for thy beautiful "Chesapeake," thou art still more famous for thy hospitality. The
genuine welcome of the old English times is still cherished by thy
sons. Free from the ostentation of opulence quickly achieved,
Baltimore shows an example in social life, which it would be
well for her wealthier sister-cities to follow.
59 
CHAPTER V.
WASHINGTON.
The Capitol-Its Senate-Chamber, House of Representatives, Library of
Congress, Supreme Court, &c.-View from the Capitol-Population of
Washington-Facility of Admission  to the  Senate-Chamber-Com  mencement of Business-Dignity of the Senate, and great Respect paid
to it by the People-Door-keeper in the Gallery of the English House
of Comnmons-Want of Decorum in the American House of Representa  tives-Anecdote-Legislative Procrastination-Speech of one of the
Representatives from Georgia-Bitter Attack on the Navy by another
Member-Anecdote-Protracted Sitting of both Chambers-Smoking  Society at Washington-Anecdote-The British Minister and his Lady
-The Patent Office-Sewing-machine-The Museum-Original " Dec  laration of Independence"-Printer's Press at which Franklin worked.
THE Capitol at Washington, an imposing structure, is situated
in the centre of a square on an eminence seventy-eight feet above
the sea.  It consists of a central edifice and two wings, the entire
length being 352 feet. The height of the building to the top of
the dome is 120 feet; and under the dome is the rotunda, 95
feet in diameter, adorned with sculpture and painting of a
national character. A fine statue of Columbus stands at the
entrance; and a colossal statue of Washington is placed in a
temple in the east park.
Within the Capitol are the Senate, Chamber, the House of
Representatives, the Library of Congress, the Court-Room of the
Supreme Court, and about seventy apartments for the accommodation of committees, &c. The building is surrounded by a park 
WASHINGTON.
of twenty-two acres, ornamentally laid out with trees, shrubberies, fountains, &c.
The Capitol, from its commanding position, has an extensive
view of undulating plains, bounded in the distance, on one side,
by an amphitheatre of uplands, and on the other, by the muddy
but placid Potomac.   Several broad flights of steps lead through
the park down the west side of the Capitol hill, and open upon
Pennsylvania Avenue. In the distance, at the end of this broad
and spacious vista, is the President's house; and in the vicinity
are situated the various government offices. The population is
about 40,000; but, like almost every city in the United States,
it is rapidly increasing. The prosperity of Washington being
due solely to its position as the seat of government, the population is of a very fluctuating character; in the session of Congress,
it is crowded to excess, while in the intervals it is a very quiet
place indeed.  Social equality is here seen to perfection; and, as
every one of the sovereign people has access to the head of the
nation (the President), they think themselves, of course, equal to
any one else.
The Supreme Court of the United States holds its sittings in the
Capitol.  This is indeed as dignified a body as can be presented
by any tribunal whatever. It is composed of nine judges, the
only persons in the States who sit in robes, a costume which
adds to the dignity of their appearance.
The Senate and House of Representatives possess great interest
for a stranger, particularly an Englishman who is acquainted
with the British Houses of Parliament.  Unfortunately, from
some defect in the architectural arrangements, the voices of
speakers in each chamber are very indistinctly heard.
Being extremely anxious to observe the proceedings in both
Houses, I took care to arrive at the Capitol at half-past ten;
and, after various inquiries, found my way, accompanied by a
lady, into the ladies' gallery of the Senate Chamber. No door
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keeper obstructed the entrance; and the sovereign people a,l) peared to consider the House as part of their own property.  The
civility and kindness of manner exhibited to one another were
remarkable, and formed a strong contrast to the conduct of the
same class in England.
On taking my seat in the gallery, just opposite the Speaker, I
watched with great interest the House as it became gradually
filled with Senators. At eleven o'clock, the desks were about
half-occupied; and the Speaker, rapping his desk with a hammer, exclaimed: "The House is in order."
A short prayer was then offered up; and the Senate, composed of sixty-two members, proceeded to business. As the first
hour was devoted to the reception of petitions, I was fortunate
enough to hear several Senators called for by name, in rotation,
according to the Speaker's list. The first summoned was Mr.
Clay, the Senator from Kentucky.
The Speaker's sonorous voice was heard with great effect, as
hlie solemnly called forth:
"The Senator from Virginia;" " the Senator from Ohio;" "the
Senator from Illinois," &c.
How could this fail deeply to interest an Englishman, particularly when he reflected that each of these Senators represented
a "State" as large as, or larger than England; and with a soil
and natural productions capable of supporting a much larger
population.
The Senate is a remarkably dignified body, and may be favorably compared with any assembly in other countries. I remarked this to one of the Senators, who assured me that they
had fallen off very much in this respect, and were not now so
striking in appearance as they had been ten years ago. Still, it
is impossible to avoid being struck by the unmistakable evidence
i-i their physioginomi;(s of iptcllecl ul power.
The sovereignel-u ol  l-,,!1'(v);(,rlter respect for the
62
,.i 
WASHINGTON.
Senate than for the other House. I remarked that they invariably uncovered their heads, on entering the Senate Chamber.
This was not the case in the House of Representatives.
On one occasion, I said to a tall, good-looking Yankee:
"Why don't you take your hat off in the presence of your
Representatives?"
Why, stranger," replied he, "I won't pay any respect to
those who don't respect themselves."
At this moment, I could not avoid thinking of the usual scene
in the Speaker's gallery of our House of Commons, on any interesting occasion, where, when the visitor becomes interested in
hearing some statesman of celebrity, and leans forward a little,
he is suddenly startled by the Cockney voice of the door-keeper,
or other official in attendance, exclaiming, in a very grandiloquent manner: "'Eds hup,'eds hup!" to the inexpressible annoyance and loss of the unfortunate listeners.
The Houses of Congress are perfectly free from all such impertinent and uncalled-for assumptions of" Jacks in office." In
truth, the officials of every class in the United States are as
famous for their civility and attention as their contemporaries in
England are for the reverse.
The House of Representatives is separated from the Senate by
a large circular hall, called the Rotunda; but so conveniently
placed, that the communication between the legislative bodies is
simple and immediate.
The representative body, composed of about two hundred and
forty members, does not give a stranger the idea of dignity or
repose; as the constant and loud conversation is accompanied by
a running fire of raps bestowed by honorable members on the
desks before them, for the purpose of summoning the boys in
attendance. These noises, coupled with the defective construc tion of the chamber, which causes five distinct echoes, render it
necessarv for the members to "roar again," if they intend to bo
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audiblc.  The consequence, as may be imagined, is an indescrib  able confusion of sounds; and the violent efforts of the orators
to be heard, speedily excites them, particularly the Southern
men, when the gesticulation at times becomes not only exagger ated, but absolutely ludicrous. I frequently heard abuse ban died about; such as, "I can not answer for that gentleman's
obtuse intellect;" or, "I can not beat common sense into such
a thick head," &c.  Once, I regret to say, I heard "the lie" di rectly given. This outrage was answered by a greater outrage,
in the shape of a rough push or blow. The belligerent parties
were speedily separated, and order was restored, by all the mem bers in the vicinity rushing forward to the rescue. The specta tors were very indignant at this unseemly proceeding, especially
as they knew that foreigners were spectators of the scene.
Toward the close of the session, great excitement is apt to be
shown.   This arises from the bad habit of procrastinating the
Appropriation Bill and other important affairs to the last moment. It was said, by an American Senator, that more real
business was transacted in fifteen minutes during the last two
days, than for six weeks previously.
I listened with great interest to a speech by Mr. Toombs, one
of the Representatives from Georgia. He was abusing the Army
Appropriation Bill, and trying to have it reduced.  With great
command of language, and the voice of a Stentor, he was ably
denouncing the expenditure;  but the House appeared utterly
careless and inattentive, and conversation was going on as usual.
The loud flaps of the members' books or hands were not discontinued for a moment. Onward bellowed the orator, in what
might be fairly termed an able discourse, but still without any
person appearing to listen to one word that was said. At length,
he began to compare the cost of each individual soldier of the
American army with the soldiers of the English army. "Look
at Great Britain," urged he; "look at that vast and magnificent
C) 4 
WASHINGTON.
empire, on whose territories it may be truly said, without exaggeration, that the sun never sets." This was a lucky hit. Instantaneously the noise ceased. All tongues were hushed at the
allusion to Great Britain; and the orator proceeded with his
harangue amidst comparative silence. Several members who
were seated behind him, and could not hear distinctly, changed
their places, and came round in front. Soon a little crowd was
collected on the floor of the House, anxious to hear every word.
How comes it," said he, "that the soldier of the United
States army costs at this moment one hundred and fifty dollars
a year more than he did in 1840? How comes it that a soldier
of the United States army costs, in California, one thousand
dollars per annurn?   If it be necessary,  we  can afford ten,
twenty, fifty, nay, a hundred millions of dollars; but I consider
this enormous expense totally unnecessary. How comes it that
the soldier of the United States army costs more by a considerable sum than the most costly soldier in the world-the British
soldier?  What are these men?   They are all hired and foreign
mercenaries.
On the Naavy Appropriation Bill, a member, whose name I
forget, attacked the navy in a bitter and hostile spirit. Among
other undignified and unstatesmanlike vituperation, he used the
term, "Grog-soaked lieutenants."
I turned to an officer of rank in the American navy, standing
close to me, and asked him what the navy would say to such
language.
They won't care a cent about it," replied lihe; "it is all
Buncome: besides, it is well known in our navy that the man
who is talking in this manner had his ear bitten off by a rowdy,
some time ago.  I saw the whole proceeding; and as I held a
large stick in my hand, could easily have saved his ear, by
knocking the rowdy down.   But, of course, I wouldn't, as he
was always abusing the navy.   We can well afford to laugh at
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TOUR IN AMERICA.
such a man's talking to Buncome. It is to gain credit with his
constituents, and to create what we call political capital."
From the 3d of March, at noon, both Chambers sat until
noon of the 4th. As most of the undignified scenes alluded to
took place during protracted sittings, allowances must be made
for the attendant fatigue, and consequent excitement and exhaustion. The easy access; the want of forms and ceremonies;
the extremely polite and dignified bearing of the spectators,
command the attention and admiration of a stranger.
In the evenings, numerous gentlemen were solacing themselves with cigars. The passages outside both Chambers were
crammed with these fumigators, which rendered the  air any
thing but pure or agreeable. As, however, the ladies who
crowded the galleries did not object to it, no other person had
any business to complain.
The society at Washington is of a very mixed character; not
nearly so select as any other city in the Union. The hotels are
very uncomfortable, in consequence of the crowding together of
persons of uncongenial habits.  It was here that I first perceived an instance of social impropriety. I am bound to confess,
however, that the American ladies, seated at the table, and
cognizant of the affair, were infinitely more put out than myself. I was simply amused; but Americans are extremely
annoyed and irritated, particularly when English persons are
present.
A very beautiful young woman, seated near the top of one of
the long dinner-tables, suddenly commenced a conversation with
another young lady on the opposite side, who was divided from
her by several sitters. She was forced to elevate her voice into
a scream, to drown the clatter of waiters, knives and forks, &e.
After a discordant dialogue of some minutes' duration, perfectly
audible to the whole room, she turned suddenly to the subject
of matrimony.
66 
WASHINGTON.
"As for me," she screamed, " as for me, I won't even look at
any man (I don't care who he is) over the age of twenty-three.
Oh, my!"
She then subsided into silence; and I could not avoid looking
with interest on that expressive, innocent, and beautiful countenance. In repose, she seemed a perfect angel; but the moment
her exquisite little mouth opened, and the delicate coral lips
parted, what  a sound!  The illusion was dispelled, and the
fable of the peacock singing, was forcibly recalled to mny mind.
The entertainments at Washington are upon a less ostentatious, hut infinitely more common-sense plan, than those in New
York. In the fashionable society of New York, a display of
wealth appeared to be the end in view. In Washington, mind
and manner were in greater estimation; and comfort and economy of living bore the palm. Among the most hospitable and
agreeable houses was that of the British minister.
"Never before did I see," was the observation of a keen and
distinguished American, " a hostess with such exquisite tactsuch keen, though quiet and observant manner.   Are all your
English ladies so unremitting and attentive to their guests?"
No person should leave Washington without a good look at
the Patent Office, which contains countless inventions of the
'cute Yankee mind. These pour in with such abundance, that
already the space allotted to them is so completely crammed as
to preclude the possibility of any close investigation.  By  the
kindness of Professor Renwick, I waas enabled to examine the
celebrated sewing-machine, and was informed that it had made
seveitee,z pFair of inexpressibles in one day; the only assistance
required being a little girl to hook on the cloth.
"Alas! alas!" the assistant exclaimed, "it has been so mauled
about since the ladies heard of its wonderful performance, that
it is quite deranged, and won't work!"
The suit of clothes, worn by Washington on resigning his
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commission as General-in-chief, is to be seen in the museum. I
can not admire the manner in which these relics are exhibited.
They are hung up, much like "old clothes" in a Jew's shop, and
quite destroy the feeling of reverence and dignity attached to
any memorials of so great and good a man.
An Englishman ought not to pass through this room without
inspecting the original "Declaration of Independence"-the
Magna Charta of the North American continent.  Let him read
it carefully through, and reflect upon its contents. It may not
be generally known that, in the rough draft, as originally drawn
out, a complaint against the mother-country was set forth, which
is omitted in the present document. As it formerly stood, the
British Government was charged with having forced slavery on
the colonies, in spite of their entreaties and remonstrances.
An ancient and worm-eaten oaken printer's press attracts the
stranger's eye. It is the self-same at which Franklin worked in
London upward of one hundred years ago.
68 
CHAPTER VI.
WASHIIINGTON DOCK-YARD.
Present use of the Dock-yard-Facility with which Foreigners may pene  trate its PRecesses, contrasted with the Difficulties to be encountered
in gaining Admission into English National Dock-yards-Chain and
Anchor Factory-Anecdote-Chain-cables-Superiority of American
Iron-New Model for Anchors-English Dock-yard " Matee"-Ameri  call Artillery-Remarkable Contrast-The Shell Factory-Rapid Mann  facture of Musket and Pistol-balls-The Ordnance Laboratory-Shell
Fuses-Percussion Caps-Congreve Rockets-Conversation at a Naval
and Military Dinner-party.
THE Dock-yard, or Navy-yard, as the Americans are fond of
calling it, situated on the banks of the Potomac, one mile south
of the Capitol, is not now used for building, or even repairing,
vessels; but exclusively for manufacturing boilers, steam machinery, anchors, tanks, and all the iron and metal fittings required
in their ships of war. Buildings are now in progress to facilitate
the manufacture of the very excellent copper recently discovered
on the shores of Lake Superior. An ordnance laboratory is likewise attached to the dock-yard. This branch, unlike the ordnance in England, belongs to one and the same  department.
No person can visit the yard without being struck by the admirable arrangement, the nice adaptation, the order and regularity, displayed at every step, and on all sides. -
Nothing of interest being concealed, it'is impossible that any
stranger, particularly one accustomed to the dock-yards in England, can avoid surprise at the readiness with which he can 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
penetrate into this "sanctum" of Uncle Sam.   Let me  first de scibe the ceremonies of an entrance I once made into the En glish dock-yard at Portsmouth, and then contrast it with my
entrance into the establishment at Washington. On a fine May
afternoon, I strolled down Common Hard to the dock-yard
gates, accompanied by a member of the House of Commons.
Although well-known there, and asserting my companion to be
an M.P., we were not allowed to enter without considerable
difficulty and delay. At length, after sundry questions and a
demand for signatures, the policeman was satisfied; a card was
delivered to us, and the "people's representative" was allowed
to walk in.
Now  mark the contrast.   On  a misty and  very English
morning in the month of February,'51, I marched along Pennsylvania Avenue on my way to the naval workshop of Washington. The road led me through the Capitol, where I will only
pause for a moment, to admire the fine marble motnuminent erected to the memory of Somers, Caldwell, Decatur, and the American officers killed at Tripoli. Passing over the crest of the
Capitol hill, and gradually descending south, toward the banks
of the Potomac, I approached the gates of the dock-yard, when
my mind misgave me a little.  "What," thought I, "would be
the reception of an American naval officer, if he were to march,
thus boldly, into the jaws of Portsmouth, Plymouth, or Sheerness? A pretty civil reception he would meet with, truly."
Somewhat abashed by this idea, I rather halted on nearing
the gate, particularly as I perceived a huge, grey-coated sentinel
with an unmistakable Milesian countenance, staring fixedly at
me. Putting the best face on the matter, I boldly advanced,
and addressed my gray friend as follows:
"Is the Commodore in the yard?"
Not receiving any answer, and the sentry looking very wise,
or fierce. I could net Bay which, I repeated the question
70 
WASHINGTON DOCK-YARD.
"Is the Commodore in the yard, sentry?"
Without returning any verbal reply, he leisurely inclined his
head on the right shoulder. This I correctly interpreted into
"Yes; go ahead, stranger." So on I went.
Marching straight down the yard, I inquired the way to the
Commodore's office, and was directed there with the greatest
civility. The yard is composed of about a dozen large houses or
factories, and one wooden ship-building shed (the latter old and
apparently obsolete.) These buildings are scattered somewhat
irregularly about the yard, covering nearly twenty-four acres of.
land, with a considerable frontage on the Potomac.
Let us first take the "chain-and-anchor" factory, and describe
what is interesting and novel there. Before doing so, however,
it may not be amiss to relate an anecdote told by a gallant
Commodore in the American navy-a man who had a personal
knowledge of Nelson and Bonaparte; and who is deservedly
one of the most esteemed veterans in the service.
"Some years ago," said he, "I commanded one of our frigates.
As we were going into Spithead, I unfortunately lost an anchor
and chain. ~ Of course I got it replaced at your dock-yard at
Portsmouth. After a considerable stay, I sailed for Toulon, in
France, and, by a curious coincidence, lost a second anchor and
chain. Johnny Crapaud was as civil as John Bull, and irnmediately supplied me with another. On our return to the
States, we determined to test the English chain and the French
chain against one of ours of the same size. The trial took place
at Boston, and resulted as follows. The Portsmouth chain gave
out first; the French second; and the Yankee last."
It may be feared that some of the chain-cables served out to
Her Majesty's ships are defective, in spite of the usual testing.
This opinion is confirmed by my own experience. For instance,
in the spring of 1830, the best bower of Her Majesty's ship
Childrs,," parted in the!aiid-locked harbor of Cromartie. Scot
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TOUR IN AME RICA.
land. Again, Her Majesty's ship, " Mastiff," August, 1847, was
lying snugly moored in a bay, in the island of Sanday, Orkneys.
At one o'clock, it was a dead calni. A heavy gale suddenly
sprung up; and, although blowing off the land, the chains both
parted in a few minutes.   What makes this the more mysterious,
is that, three days after, she rode out in quite as heavy a gale
with her stream-anchor and chain. The sudden snapping of
these three chains, with other reasons, might render one suspicious of all iron-work supplied from the Eastern Dock-yards.
The American iron, now furnished by contract, is found
infinitely superior to any before used in Washington; a link of
one and a half inch in diameter, of the new contract-iron, being
found equal to a link two inches and an eighth of the old cables.
In fact, so superior is the tenacity of the new iron, that the
testing links were all broken on the first trial. There can be no
doubt about the accuracy of this.
The model of anchors now manufactured in the United States
yards, is an immense improvement on what is termed the "old
establishment." The shank is much reduced in length, and
more metal is used in the junction with the arms; thus strengthening the material part. The stock, likewise, is beginning to
get credit in the States for holding power, bearing out the theory
of Lieutenant Rogers, the patentee of the anchor of that name.
The links of a chain-cable are all numbered. This, being a
simple and easy process, under the forging hammer, and of obvious advantage to all naval men, ought to be generally adopted.
The swivels for the largest moorings, are made so neat and compact, that they can be hove in through the ship's hawse-holes.
"And to whom do you suppose we are indebted for all these
improvements, and many more too tedious to mention?" was
the question put to me by my American chaperon.  "Why, to
an English dock-yard matee from Devonport.  There he stands.
Let me introduce you;"
72 
WASHINGTON DOCK-YARD.
I was accordingly introduced, and found that my friend had
been forty years in the Washington yard.
" He is worth 100,000 dollars," was whispered into my ear.
"Much more," I replied, "than he ever would have realized
in Plymouth. What a lucky dog!"
Let us now examine the field and boat artillery.   These
admirable and exquisitely simple howitzer-guns are twelves and
twenty-four pounders; the twelves averaging 750 cwt., and the
twenty-fours 1300 cwt. It is impossible to describe the ease
and celerity with which these guns are transferred from a boat's
slide to a field carriage, and vice versa. At this time, the guns
and slides and carriages were all lying in a confused mass on
the floor of the store.
"Would you like to see the field-howvitzer exercised?" was
the polite offer made to me.
"Amazingly," I replied; "nothing better."
"Let us, then, walk down to the banks of the Potomac," continued my companion. And we leisurely advanced down the
two hundred yards that separated us from the river. Before,
however, the distance was passed, the twenty-four pound howitzer came racing after us, dragged by six, and pushed by two,
dock-yard matees.
" Ouick work," thought I, "quick work for matees."
" Now, sir, take out your watch, and mark time while they
fire. Mind how you point her," added the Commodore, addressing the men; "see the shot don't hit that sloop in the bend.
Now then, begin."
"These dock-yard matees are a pretty smart set of sailor
chaps, I guess," said I.   Why,  there were four discharges
within thirty seconds; two shots were ricochetting at the same
moment."
The intelligent officer who constructed these admirable field
carriages, as well as many other ordnance improvements was
D
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TOUR IN AMERICA.
rewarded for his exertions the same day by a vote of Congress
which secured to him one thousand five hundred dollars per
annmlm extra.
Curveting at a sharp run round an old anchor, lying on the
ground, the howitzer disappeared at a rapid pace. I am very
much mistaken if this was not the simplest and most effective
field-piece in the world-still more mistaken if the majority of
the crew were not brought up in an English man-of-war.
These guns are cast from copper procured from Lake Superior.
It is asserted that this metal is a considerable per centage more
adhesive and tough than any other copper known.
A remarkable contrast was afforded in comparing this gun
with one lying close by.   The latter unsightly abortion was
cast in England in 1777, and sent out to Cornwallis to assist in
coercing Washington and the American colonies. Its exceeding
ugliness merits a short description. Length, two feet ten inches.
Ten inch bore, with several reinforce rings. Weight, about nine
cwt. It is now looked upon more as if it were an antediluvian
curiosity than a trophy. There is not the slightest chance of its
ever coming into use again.
Let us now proceed to the shell-factory.
The first thing that strikes one is, that Brother Jonathan has
succeeded in casting the "bushing" or case of fuse into the shell
itself. This is a novel and extremely economical invention;
and is a desideratum that all the "warlike powers of Europe"
have been racking their brains for, this "many a year." The
Yankees can not, however, manage it in any shell larger than a
twelve pounder.
In this department, two men are employed, compressing musket
and pistol balls with astonishing celerity. The lead is prepared
in rods, about two feet long, and rapidly passed through a com pressor. The usual day's work is twenty-five thousand; of
course more than the present consumption.
74 
WASHINGTON DOCK-YARD.
The Ordnance Laboratory now was thrown open to my view,
and fully kept pace with the other admirable arrangements for
which our American brethren are so celebrated.
The uniformity with which the shell-fuses were pressed and
filled, is extraordinary.   A  machine presses the composition
gradually down, until the weight is 300 lbs. A bell then rings,
giving notice to the operator, who is thus enabled to fill the fuse
with exactly equal strength throughout. The percussion-caps,
after completion, are covered with a coat of varnish, of such a
nature that they resist the effect of soaking in water for many
hours. The English and French caps are said to be useless after
being immersed two hours. All the cartridges, in packages of a
dozen, are likewise covered with a coating of the same varnish;
this keeps them serviceable even after being under water. Crom well's advice to his troopers has not been lost upon Jonathan:
"Trust in the Lord, and keep your powder dry."
Congreve rockets, without sticks, are likewise used. They
are so constructed that the back fire in escaping gives a rotatory
motion, and thus keeps them in a direct line, without requiring
the balance of a stick or bar behind. The rotatory motion must,
however, greatly diminish their range from the lateral direction of
the back fire. The cases are filled by means of an hydraulic press,
capable of exerting a pressure of from seventy-five to eighty tons.
At a large dinner-party, the following day, composed of naval,
ordnance, and scientific authorities, the conversation turned on
the free and ready admission of foreigners to the American dockyards, arsenals, &c.
"Your liberality is great," said I, "to permit an officer of a
foreign service, like myself, to examine so minutely the interior
of these establishments."
"Not so great as you imagine," replied an ordnance authority,
"although we Americans know full well, that you do not allow
such access to yours."
75 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
"Why then do you disavow your liberality?" I inquired.
"I will tell you," he replied.  "It is a very simple affair;
you will see it in a moment. We have accurate descriptions,
and, what is more, moddes, of every thing of consequence in your
dock-yards and arsenals. As we can procure these, we have no
doubt that the English Government can do the same with regard
to ours.  In fact, we know they can.  With this conviction, it
would be only waste of time and money to endeavor to prevent
that which is as inevitable as water finding its own level. Your
are at perfect liberty to examine into, and take notes of, any
thing you please. We have no concealments; or, at least, very
few indeed."
"This appears simple enough," I observed, " and in accordance with common-sense. But, although I don't doubt youi
assertion in the least, I should like you to produce some evidence
to prove the fact of your possession of this knowledge."
"Let me see," said my Ordnance friend, pondering for a moment.   "I have it, I have it, in one of the gunnery-books of
questions and answers in use in her Majesty's ship' Excellent.'
"The devil!" exclaimed I; "how did you get hold of that?"
"There is one proof, at any rate," continued my friend; "but
in that book there is a question, No. 18, that has not received a
satisfactory or correct answer. At least, it is not considered sat isfactory or correct by our ordnance officers."
"Pray let me hear all about it," I exclaimed.
"Certainly," answered my  intelligent informant;  "I have
great pleasure in doing so; particularly as it will tend to eluci date the truth-the great point we both have in view. The
question runs thus:-' Are there any disadvantages in too great
windage?' Answer,-' The deflection as well as the variation
in the ranges of shot fired with the same charges and elevation,
is partly attributable to the windage; for the shot, on its quit ting the gun, is liable to strike against the sides of the bore. If
76 
WASHINGTON DOCK-YARD.
the right side be the last part struck, the deflection will be to the
left. If the under part, the range will be increased and vice
versa.' In this answer to No. 18, you will therefore perceive
that, although the word'partly' seems to recognize other causes
of deflection and variation of range, the paramount or overruling
cause is overlooked altogether. Certainly, the last blow of the
ball at the mouth of the gun will have its influence, for a time,
on the flight of the shot; but a variety of careful experiments
have shown that the principal cause of deflection and variation
gf range, is attributable to want of uniformity in the density of
the metal, inasmuch as very few, if any spherical projectiles have
the centre of figure and the centre of gravity in the same point.
From this circumstance, whatever may be the other causes of
leflection, the shot or shell, on leaving the bore, assumes a rotary
movement (the centre of figure revolving round the centre of
gravity) the effect of which is to bring the resistance of the air
in a direction more or less oblique with regard to the action of
the powder, and thus produce greater or less deviation.
"In 1843, and since that time, numerous experiments have
been made at Washington and elsewhere, which establish the
governing cause of deflection beyond doubt. For example:shells have been cast positively eccentric, and other methods
have been resorted to, to give different degrees of eccentricity to
shot. At our naval and experimental battery, where nice practice is required in ascertaining the ranges of guns, each projectile
is floated in a bucket of quicksilver, by which means its preponderating part is ascertained. The shot or shell is then spotted
at this point, and strapped to a wooden bottom, so as to place
the heavy part in a uniform position, and avoid as much as possible the errors arising from variation in the position of the centre
of gravity. -I can assure you, from personal experience, that, by
altering the position of the heavy side of a shot in its sabot, and
carefully pushing it home, I can invariably predict the side of
77 
TOURi IN AMERICA.
the target on which it will pass. Of course, this could not be
done if the deviations were principally, or even materially, affected by the last blow of the ball on its leaving the bore. Mind
you, I do not mean this as a criticism on the'Excellent's' practice; it is more as a philosophical nicety than a point of great
practical importance."
"Thank you," I replied.   "You have at any rate proved that
you procure as much information as you require from us Britishers. Pray what conclusions have you come to on this subject?"
"I will give you," answered my well informed American
gunnery-officer, " a brief summary of the conclusions we have
come to on this side of the Atlantic:
"First; if the centre of gravity of a projectile be in a vertical
plane above the axis of the bore, its position will be the most
favorable of any for length of range, and its lateral deviation will
be diminished.
"Second; if the centre of gravity be placed below the axis,
the range is uniformly less than that given by placing it in any
other position.
"Third; if the centre of gravity be placed in a horizontal
plane on the right or left of the axis of the bore, the effect is
injurious to the range, and the ball will deflect to the right or
left according to the position of its weight. The exceptions in
lateral divergence are in the first graze of ricochet firing. Here,
the striking of the ball probably influences the flight of the shot
for a short time, and in cases where its eccentricity is not great.
It is somewhat remarkable, that, although the law of deflection
is known to the French artillerists (the theory being noticed and
explained by Thioury), nothing is said about it in the publication
of their experiments.   In the IlIanuel de Matelot Cannoniee
(their gunnery catechism), the question is asked aad answered
much the same as in the' Excellent's' exercises.
78 
WASHINGTON DOCK-YARD.
"In conclusion, I shall be extremely happy to exchange ideas
with you on nautical subjects, in which sort of commerce, you
know, we Yankees rather incline to free-trade principles."
"Thank you heartily," I rejoined, and concluded the conversation.
It is quite clear, from these facts and others that came under
my  notice, that the jealous restrictions at the  Dock-yards in
England, are equally ridiculous, useless, and annoying.
79 
CHAPTER VII.
DOCK-YARD AT BOSTON.
The Dry Dock-The "Virginia," the "Franklin," the "Vermont" and
the "Ohio"-Speech of Charles Sumner, Senator from Massachusetts  A few Words for Yankee Ears.
THE Dock-yard at Boston, comprising eighty-five acres, is
situated on a point of land at the confluence of the Charles and
Mystic rivers. The dry dock is eighty-four feet broad, and two
hundred and eighty-five feet long. Most of the rope used in the
United States navy, is made here in a rope-walk twelve hundred
feet long, and fitted with admirable machinery. Two buildingsheds are also here, capable of covering first-class ships. In one
of these is the "Virginia," 74, but mounting 80 guns. She is
now nearly finished, but has been twenty years on the stocks
Anchored in the Charles River are three fine two-deckers: the
"Franklin," 74; "Vermont," 74; and " Ohio," 74.  All these
ships can mount upward of 80 guns of the heaviest calibre.
An American authority, the " Boston Courier" thus describes
"three great ships of the line" under the head of Naval Intelligence.
"There are now in this harbor," says the Journal, " three
great ships of the line: the' Ohio,' the' Vermont,' and the
Virginia.' Each one them may be said to be remarkable for
its model, its size, and accommodations; the excellence of the
materials of which it is composed, its strength and fitness for sea
and battle. They are called seventy-fours, but are capable of
carrying one hundred and ten guns each, together with a com 
DOCK-YARD AT BOSTON.
plement of one thousand men, and all the provisions, stores, and
munitions for a three years' cruise, not omitting twenty tons of
powder for each vessel. These costly and splendid floating citadels are all at the navy-yard in Charlestown, under the command of the officers there; and never fail to attract the attention of strangers, and others in the Chelsea ferry-boats and other
vessels plying in the upper harbor.
"Of such ample depth is the water in this navy-yard, that
these immense line-of-battle ships can lie at its wharfs at low
tide, without touching bottom; and indeed sail directly from the
wharf with all hands on board, completely armed and provisioned for any voyage."
Such is the magnificence of some of the naval establishments
in the United States. Yet though Americans can not but be
proud of so unequivocal a display of power and grandeur, it is
certain that public feeling among them is not wholly absorbed
by the maritime and military might of the Confederation, but
that they look with an anxious eye to the improvement of their
universities, and other institutions tending to the elevation of
intellect in science, art, and literature.
In one of the speeches of Charles Sumner, Senator from Massachliusetts, the Republican orator utters the following noble sentiments
"Within a short distance of this city (Boston) stands an institution of learning, which was one of the earliest cares of the
early forefathers of the country: the conscientious English Puritans. Favored child of an age of trial and struggle, carefully
nursed through a period of hardship and anxiety, endowed at
that time by the oblations of men like Harvard, sustained from
its first foundation by the paternal arm of the Commonwealth,
by a constant succession of munificent bequests, and by the
prayers of all good men, the University at Cambridge now invites our homage as the most ancient, the most interesting, and
DI*
81 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
the most important seat of learning in the land; possessinlg the
oldest and most valuable library-one of the largest museums ot
mineralogy and natural history-a School of Law, which annually receives into its bosom more than one hundred and fifty
sons from all parts of the Union, where they listen to instruction
from professors whose names have become among the most
valuable possessions of the land-a School of Divinity, the nurse
of true learning and piety-one of the largest and most flourishing Schools of Medicine in the country; besides these, a general
body of teachers, twenty-seven in number, many of whose names
help to keep the name of the country respectable in every part
of the globe, where science, learning, and taste are cherished: the
whole presided over at this moment by a gentleman, early distinguished in public life by his unconquerable energies and his
masculine  eloquence, at a later period, by the  unsurpassed
ability with which he administered the affairs of our city, and
now in a green old age, full of years and honors, preparing to
lay down his present high trust:* such is Harvard University;
and, as one of the humblest of her children, happy in the recollection of a youth nurtured in her classic retreats, I can not allude
to her without an expression of filial affection and respect.
"It appears from the last Report of the Treasurer, that the
whole available property of the University, the various accumulations of more than two centuries of generosity, amounts to
703,175 dollars (equal to about ~140,000).
"Change the scene, and cast your eyes upon another object.
There now swings idly at her moorings, in this harbor, a ship of
the line, the'Ohio,' carrying ninety guns, finished as late as
1836 for 547,888 dollars; repaired only two years afterward, in
1838, for $223,012; with an armament which has cost $53,945;
making an amount of 834,845 dollars as the actual cost at this
moment of that single ship; more than $100,000 beyond all the
* Hon. Josiah Quincy.
82 
DOCK-YARD AT BOSTON.
available accumulations of the richest and most ancient seat of
learning in the land! Choose ye, my fellow-citizens of a Christian state, between the two caskets-that wherein is the loveliness of knowledge and truth, or that which contains the carrion
death. I refer thus particularly to the'Ohio,' because she happens to be in our waters. But in so doing I do not take the
strongest case afforded by our navy. Other ships have absorbed
still larger sums. The expense of the'Delaware,' in 1842, had
been 1,051,000 dollars. Pursue the comparison still further.
The expenditure of the University during the last year, for the
general purposes of the College, the instruction of the undergraduates, and for the Schools of Law and Divinity, amount to
46,949 dollars. The cost of the' Ohio' for one year in service,
in salaries. wages, and provisions, is $220,000; being 175,000
dollars more than the annual expenditures of the Universitymore than four times as much.
"In other words, for the annual sum which is lavished on one
ship of the line, four institutions like Harvard University, might
be sustained throughout the country!
"Still further let us pursue the comparison.   The pay of the
Captain of a'ship like the'Ohio,' is 4500 dollars when in service; $3500 when on leave of absence, or off duty. The salary
of the President of the Harvard University is 2205 dollars, without leave of absence, and never being off duty."
I will conclude this slight sketch of a hasty trip to the four
great sea-board cities, with a few words, intended solely for
Yankee ears, on the price and quality of wine at the hotels, particularly at those of Washington. I can not imagine why,
with such admirably conducted and enormous hotels; with such
swarms of intelligent travelers; with such convenient commonsense arrangements in all the usual affairs of life in America,
there should be one great fault; namely, the enormous price
fleeced from travelers for very indifferent wine. Stuff, which in
83 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
England, with her enormous duties, would be dear at half acrown a bottle, is charged in the United States at from a dollar
and a half (the lowest price) up to twelve dollars. And then,
forsooth, the Yankees often boast of the price, and appear to
think the extravagant cost a feather in their caps-something to
be proud of-something to elevate themselves and country!
I have bought much better Cape Madeira in New York for
two dollars and a half a gallon, than I have known a Yankee
Boniface to supply at five dollars a bottle. I can not, for the
life of me, understand how Jonathan can allow himself to be so
gulled. Certes, he is green and soft on this point, or he would
not be thus over-reached.
84 
JOURNEY TO THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
CHAPTER I.
The "Reindeer" Steamer-The Hudson Railroad Train versus Steamer  My Yankee Companions-Scenery on the Shores of the Hudson-Arrival
at Albany-Unlparalleled Facility of Intercommunication-Prodigious
Traffic on the Hudson-Magnificence of the River Steamers-Perma nent Residence of Families on Board the Steamers-Arrival at Utica Interview with MIr. Fillmore, the President of the United States-Ab sence of Pomp —Mistaken " Independence"-Plank Roads-Trenton
Falls-Lake Ontario-Approach to Niagara-The "meanest Railway
in Creation"-" Snake-heads"-The "Maid of the Mist" and the Yan kee Skipper-A violent Squall — Suspension-bridge below the Falls.
"HIE for the far West!" was my exclamation, as I walked
aboard a beautiful and fleet steamer-the "Reindeer"-which
was receiving her living freight for Albany.
While bustling passengers were hurriedly looking after the
safety of their luggage, I hastily scanned the vessel and the surrounding scenery. The vessel was upward of three hundred
feet long, and fitted up in the most elegant and useful manner.
She was lying alongside a wharf in the North or Hudson River.
The exquisite vegetation clothing the shores, and nearly concealing the villas of Hoboken, on the opposite banks of the river,
formed a pleasing contrast to the busy hum on the New York
side. 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
At seven o'clock exactly, the steamer shot out from her wharf,
and began her rapid career. In spite of a strong adverse tide
and wind, she appeared to fly past the land at railway pace.
As I was hugging myself at her prodigious speed (sixteen miles
an hour against the tide, according to my calculation, or, in still
water, at least twenty), I was exceedingly mortified to see the
train of the Hudson River Railroad overhauling us with great
celerity. When the train was abeam of the steamer, it slackened pace to take up passengers at a station; and after a short
pause, again proceeded, not only recovering the ground it had
lost by the stoppage, but speedily ranging ahead of the steamer.
At length, it shot round a point of land, and vanished from sight,
with a hoarse and insulting scream. So much for the fastest
steamer against the "iron horse."
At eight o'clock, the passengers sat down  to an excellent
breakfast, for which half a dollar was charged.
On lighting my cigar, after the morning meal, I was speedily
discovered to be a "Britisher."  Nothing could exceed the politeness of my Yankee companions, when they found it was my
first voyage up the Hudson. Information was kindly given on
every interesting point, and my admiration was forestalled for
the Highlands. I was nevertheless disappointed with this part
of the Hudson, as the Highlands are not half so grand, either in
height or abruptness, as the sides of Loch Ness in Scotland.
Having been led to suppose that, after passing this part, the
scenery would become tame and uninteresting, I was agreeably
disappointed. The land undulates in an ever-varying and most
pleasing manner, and is evidently depreciated by the Americans
in the same proportion as the Highlands are over-valued.
A small party was assembled on the fore part of the upper
deck, unsheltered from the wind. This attracted my attention,
as Americans always carefully avoid fresh air, apparently deeming it poisonous. On a further inspection, I found the group to
86 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
be "Britishers;" and, as they are always more sociable abroad
than at home, I speedily became acquainted with them.
At four o'clock P.M. we arrived at Albany, having been nine
hours in going one hundred and forty-five miles, against wind
and tide.
The Hudson River is one of the first great links in the stupendous chain of inland transport. I say one of the great links, as
several other lines of communication will soon be opened tc
Lake Erie, and share in the vast and unparalleled intercommunication. Well may it excite feelings of wonder, that, in a
brief space of time, a goodly vessel may start from either New
York or Quebec, almost circumnavigate the United States, and
emerge from the Mississippi into the Gulf of Mexico.   Two,
channels will soon be opened to the Mississippi for this purpose;!
one, already navigable from Chicago, on Lake Michigan; an-\
other, the best and shortest, through Green Bay, Lake Winnebago, and the Wisconsin River.
The enormous traffic on the Hudson is almost entirely monopolized by steamers; and there can be no sort of doubt that they
are the swiftest and best arranged steam vessels known. The
speed and size are improving so rapidly, that what is correct
now, may be far behind the mark a year hence.  The "Isaac
Newton" is at present the largest river-steamer. She is three
hundred and thirty-three feet long, forty feet beam. The saloon,
which is gorgeously decorated, is one hundred yards long.; In
this vast, vaulted apartment, the huge mirrors elegant carving,
and profuse gilding absolutely dazzle the eye. On first entering
one of these magnificent floating saloons, it is difficult for the
imagination to realize its position. All comparison is at once
defied, as there is nothing equal afloat in the world. The old
and slow boats are used for towing the commerce of the river,
barges and canal-boats swarm about one of these vessels like
bees round their queen.   I have counted from fourteen to twenty
87 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
vessels clinging in tiers to all parts of their concealed conductor.
The funnels, and the queer-looking motion of the beam, are the
only locomotive appearance visible through this shroud of canalboats.
It is a very common occurrence, during hot weather, for families to reside permanently on board the steamers; thus enjoying the fresh air and changing scenery of their locomotive house,
and avoiding the dullness of a stationary hotel on the bank of
the river. A family can reside permanently on board, with
a separate cabin and every luxury of living, including a voyage of one hundred and fifty miles, for about ten shillings
a-head per diem. This is certainly the cheapest and best traveling in the world.
On arriving at Albany, I took the railway cars for Utica
(ninety-three miles), and was safely deposited at Baggs' Hotel,
in four and half hours. The house appeared remarkably quiet;
and I was not aware, until the following morning, that the President himself-the head of the American  nation-was in the
hotel. Mr. Fillmore had stopped there since the previous evening, to rest and recruit after the festivities attending the opening
of the great Erie Railroad. Nothing could exceed the calmness
and placidity of the people. It was impossible to believe that
the Chief Magistrate of so great a nation was among them.
As I was proceeding out of the front door, to engage a carriage
for Trenton Falls, I was politely accosted by an American gentleman.
"The President," said he, "will receive this morning, Sir.
Would you like to be presented?"
"Very much," I replied.  Then, looking aghast at my shooting-jacket and careless costume, I added: "But will not this
dress prevent my having that honor?"
"Not at all," replied the' stranger who had accosted me;
"your dress is quite good enough   This is a free country.  Come
88 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
along. Let me introduce you to the Mayor of Utica, Colonel
Hinman."
I was then led by the Colonel to the reception room. For
some minutes, I was unaware that I had arrived in the presence
of the President. About twenty grave-looking citizens were
standing together, without the slightest ceremony. A voice at
length exclaimed: " Please, Gentlemen, those who have been
presented to the President, move on."
This bidding'was followed by a grave and silent movement to
the door. My turn at length came; and I had the great honor
of shaking hands with Mr. Fillmore, who addressed me in a
manner full of natural dignity.
"I am extremely sorry," said he, "that I was unable to receive you at Washington," alluding to a death in his family,
which stopped his receptions.
The President is a portly man, with frank and simple manners. His countenance bears strong indications of amiability
and kindness of heart.
On turning to retire, I was invited to remain, and gladly took
advantage of, the opportunity.  The good citizens continued to
pour in without the slightest bustle or confusion. Occasionally,
a lady appeared; and all grasped the President's hand in a
hearty and affectionate manner.
As this was the first time I had ever beheld such a sight,
I looked on with intense interest. Although there was a considerable crowd, and no police, the utmost order and regularity
prevailed. In the course of my experience, I never beheld so
courteous and well-conducted a crowd, altogether forming a strong
contrast to the demeanor of the "brilliant mob" in a similar
ceremony in England.   The only "military pomp" perceptible,
was a military man at each door. These soldiers, who had
quite enough to do in accommodating themselves and weapons to
the pressure of the crowd, were infinitely more solicitous to assist
89 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
the entrance of people than to bar them out. The ceremony lasted about an hour; after which, the President, taking the arms
of two of the principal inhabitants of Utica, walked quietly down
to the railroad-station, without the slightest fuss or parade.
This scene gave me a high sense of the propriety and self-possession of the American people.  "Here," thought I, "is dignity
without servility; a due sense of the people's own position, with
a proper respect for their chief magistrate."
But a contrast was at hand. A few weeks later, I was standing among a large crowd in the principal street of Newport,
Rhode Island, waiting to see the President, who had just arrived,
pass by.
In a short time, an open carriage and pair approached, containing the President, bareheaded, and three gentlemen, likewise
bareheaded. I gazed fixedly at his amiable and open countenance, and involuntary took of} my hat, and made a low bow.
Closely scanning the crowd, I was surprised to perceive that only
one individual (an English boy) had the good feeling, or good
mannlers, to remove his hat in token of respect to this bareheaded,
dignified man-this head of a nation of so many millions!
Americans! This is said "more in sorrow than in~ anger."
It is an occasional fault among you to sacrifice deference and
consideration to false ideas of independence and dignity. I could
not help thinking that the vilest and most ignorant rabble in
Europe would, in point of politeness, have shamed this enlight
ened and grave crowd of American citizens. Incidents like these
tempt ill-natured, short-sighted travelers to accuse the people of
the United States of rude intention and ignorance, the more to
be lamented as it arises merely from a morbid fear of looking
servile or time-serving; for there was not a single person in that
crowd who would not fiercely resent the slightest disrespect on
the part of a foreigner to their President.
As Utica is only twelve miles from Trenton Falls, I determined
90 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
to visit them. Great was my astonishment, on starting, to find
how easily and swiftly my carriage rolled through the thick mud.
At length curiosity prevailed; and I asked the driver the
reason.
"I guess it's the plank road," said he. My eyes were imme(liately opened. As plank roads are now playing a very important part in the settlement of the West, I shall give a full account of them presently.
Trenton Falls disappointed me; my expectations had been
highly excited by sanguine and enthusiastic Yankee friends.
Two hours and a half on the railway cars, the following
morning, carried me to Syracuse through Rome. Here we left
the Buffalo railroad, and entered the Oswego line. An hour and
three quarters brought us to Oswego, on Lake Ontario, where
conveyances were ready to take passengers and baggage free of
expense on board the steamer. A very few minutes sufficed for
this operation; and the magnificent steamer stood out on Lake
Ontario, bound to Niagara Falls. A strong breeze and heavy
sea somewhat retarded the vessel's speed; but the next morning, at five o'clock, after a thirteen hours' passage, including a
stoppage at Genesee River, she was safely moored at Lewiston
wharf. The travelers and their effects were transferred to what
a tall Yankee described as "the meanest railway in creation."
After a painful toil of an hour and a half, doing nine miles, the
train at length came in sight of the Great Niagara.
With earnest haste, I thrust my head out of the car to catch a
glimpse.  An envious cluster of trees for the moment interrupted
my gaze; I saw enough, however, to show that the train was in
disagreeable proximity to the side of the precipice. My head
was within a few inches of the edge of a crumbling cliff, peering
over a fearful abyss.
To write about, or attempt to give, an adequate idea of Niagara, is impossible. I will content myself with-describing (for
91 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
the comfort of future visitors) the afore-mentioned "meanest railway in creation," with a few remarks upon its adjuncts, and my
own personal encounter with Niagara itself.
First, the railway. From the single glimpse caught en passant, I determined to inspect it narrowly from the Falls to the
suspension-bridge, and found that many of the sleepers are rotten,
and the rail wedged in loosely with rotten wood. Several of the
spike-nails, which ought to bind the strip of iron rail to the wood
foundation, have worked out. Some of the ends of the rail are
altogether loose, and raised up half an inch and more. These, I
believe, are technically termed in Yankee  language, "snakeheads." Fortunately, the speed is no speed, being only about
ten or twelve miles an hour. At the - edge of the precipice at
this point, some one huindred and fifty feet high, I attempted,
with a large stone, to drive the end of the rail firmly down.
Vain were all my efforts, as the spike"nail was driven into decayed wood. I measured the distance of this part from the edge
of the cliff, and found it barely two feet six. So careless and
reprehensible a state of things admits of no excuse. The cars
are usually cratnmed with passengers, not one of whom would
ever trust his life to such "tender mercies," if he had investigated the road as carefully as I did.
The "Maid of the Mist" is a little steamer, about one hundred
tons, whose limited sphere of action lies between the foot of the
Falls and the narrow chasm which forms the rapids before tumbling into the whirpool-a distance of barely two thousand five
hundred yards. Before describing my adventure under the Falls,
it may be well to observe that the rush of water through the
contracted passage or chasm, is intensely exciting. The whirlpool-so much vaunted-is not to be compared to Coryvreckan
in Scotland; the Swelkie of Stroma, in the Pentland Firth; or
many places in the Race of Alderney. The whirlpool is apparently a tame, exhausted, and sluggish movement of the fatigued
92 
THE REMOTF SETTLEMENTS.
element, after the "eternal catastrophe,"' to use a Yankeeism, of
the appalling leap of Niagara.
The "Maid of the Mist" was lashed alongside the Yankee
shore, a short distance above the suspension-bridge, which crosses
the river about a mile and a half below the Falls.  A party of
twenty embarked in her, all in high glee to get close to the
mighty "squash." Pushing off from the banks, she struggled up
the stream, carefully taking advantage of the eddy along shore.
I was highly amused at the Yankee skipper's account, to his
anxious and excited passengers, of the strength of the current.
All were desirous of carrying home every tittle of wonder they
could gather.
"I guess;" answered the Captain to one of the numerous ques tions, "I guess that the current runs fourteen knots."
This was swallowed by the passengers, many of whom were
taking notes.
"Pray, what is the speed of this boat?" inquired I.
"Twenty knots," was the prompt reply.
Down went this answer in the tablets, particularly of the
Yankee passengers, who, with proud and elated looks, seemed
resolved to circulate the fact far and wide, to the glorification of
Niagara and of Yankeedom.
I am sorry to dispel the poetical illusion. The utmost speed
of the current is seven knots; and of the "Maid of the Mist," perhaps eight or nine, though she is mightily assisted in her upward
course by the eddies.
Upward climbed the steamer, slowly struggling against the
descending waters. At length she approached the lesser, or
American Fall. At this moment, the gentlemen, enveloped in
waterproof dresses, ascended the raised deck or platform, to enjoy
a close, and of course, clear and admirable view of the Fall. As
I considered my feelings on this occasion were similar to those
of my companions, I will describe them.
93 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
"Now then," thought I, being, in the elation of the moment,
smitten with a mock-heroical vein, "I will stare this stupendous
gutter out of countenance! I will emulate the eagle and the
sun!  I will gaze, and be satisfied!"
Gradually the vessel drew alongside the falling waters. I
was afterward informed by an overlooker on the cliffs that we
did not come within fifty yards. Suddenly a violent squall,
filled with spray, struck the steamer, causing her to heel over.
I was completely drenched; the waterproof garments being forced
from my tight embrace. I could hardly breathe, and could see
nothing. Forgetting Niagara, my whole thoughts were occupied
in tightly clinging to the benches. And thus I passed the outer
and least violent edge of the spray, which is caused by a turbulent wind, generated by the weight and power of the falling
water, and confined, as far as I could judge, to about seventyfive yards from the base of the cliff.
The suspension-bridge below the Falls affords the best view
of the chasm-rapids, and is well worth crossing. I was rather
astonished at the extravagant charge (25 cents, equal to ls. Id.);
and in consequence made inquiries about the cost of erection.
It is but fair to give the public the benefit of this investigation,
although I do not pledge myself to exactness. I am, however,
very near the mark.
Capital subscribed, 25,000 dollars; equal to about ~5000.
The average daily receipts, all the year round (the excess in the
summer making up the deficiency in winter), are-carriages,
twelve, at half a dollar (2s. 2d.) each. This would make six
dollars (~1 5s.) The gate-keeper informed me that the passenger-traffic was three times this amount. Total, twenty-four dollars per diem, or nearly five pounds; equal, roughly, to ~1825,
or 9125 dollars.
It is said that the architect only required five per cent. in
money down, taking six per cent. for the remainder. If this is
94 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
the case, the greedy proprietors divide something like ~1542 per
annum, on an outlay of ~250; and, be it remembered, with a
constantly increasing traffic. This is worth the attention of English capitalists, as another bridge might be built in a more attractive position, nearer the base of the Fall.
95 
CHAPTER II.
Buffalo-Wonderful Growth of the Western States-Embark in a Steamer
for Michigan-Thirteen hundred Emigrants for the Far West-Arrival
at Detroit-Lake Steamers bribed by the Michigan Central Railway  Statistics of the Lake Trade-Irish Emigrants-An American Settler in
the Far West-Population of Detroit-Insane Spirit of Speculation  Extraordinary judicial Trial at Detroit.
FROM the Falls to Buffalo, the distance is twenty-two miles.
Buffalo is the great port where the majority of emigrants concontrate to go to the fertile plains of the West, and it is one of the
most extraordinary places on the face of the earth. The number
of emigrants from this spot can not be well estimated, but a
high authority has calculated that it could not be less than one
million of human beings per annum, and still it is increasing.
This gives some idea of the enormous growth of the Western
States. I believe that the greatest emigration in ancient times
was that of the Jews from Egypt. This emigration amounted,
in the whole, to six hundred thousand adult men, or, perhaps,
with women and children together, about two million; but here
was an annual emigration of one million, and it is increasing
year by year. It is likely, by-and-by, to increase to two million
per annum. My great object was to get into the stream of
emigration, and I went early in the morning to Buffalo, and took
my passage in one of the largest steamers plying between Buffalo and Michigan. When I went on board at three o'clock in
the afternoon, there were no less than five hundred passengers
on board; and I had an admirable cabin, and large four-post 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
bed in it, with a large window looking out on the sea. I thought
that five hundred passengers must be a large cargo, but until
nine at night they still continued coming in, and I was told that
about thirteen hundred were on board. They were principally
emigrants from Europe, who had concentrated from Boston, New
York, Philadelphia, and other seaport cities; and at ten o'clock
at night we sailed. I saw nine other steamers pass out before
us, all apparently as crammed as we were. We arrived at
Detroit, a distance of three hundred miles, at four o'clock the
next evening; and in the meantime I ascertained something
about these emigrants. A great number were from Ireland,
very few from England, but many Norwegians, Germans and
Dutch, and a great number from the Eastern States, Maine, New
Hampshire, Massachusetts, and Connecticut; for they fancied
that the climate and soil in the Western States was so much
better than their own, that they had better leave a place where
there was hardly elbow room, and repair to another where they
could make their fortunes. Thus, it was not only the emigration
from Europe, but that from the Eastern States, which caused the
Western States to rise so rapidly.
I was informed that several of the finest lake steamers, which
last year daily started to go round the great chain of lakes,
namely, Erie, Huron, and Michigan, a distance of one thousand
miles, had been bought off with a bribe of 70,000 dollars, by
the Michigan Central Railway; whose interests were much improved by the stopping of the boats at their eastern terminus,
Detroit.
A brief account of the lake trade will give some interesting
particulars.
The following table, derived from an official source, affords a
good idea of the magnitude of a portion of the internal trade of
the United States.   "The aggregate valuation of our lake trade,"
says the above-named document, "for the year 1850 (import
E
97 
TOUR,, IN AMEIRICA.
and exports) amounts, it will be seen, to the large sum of 186,484,905 dollars; or more, by 40,000,000 dollars, than the
whole foreign export trade of the country."
The aggregate tonnage employed on the lakes of the United
States is equal to 203,041 tons, of which 167,137 tons is American, and 35,904 tons British. The commerce on Lakes Erie,
Huron, Michigan, Ontario, Champlain, and St. Clair is as follows:
TOTAL VALUE OF EXPORTS AND IMPORTS.
Dollars.                      Dollars.
Erie...............115,785,048 Ontario.............28,141,000
Huron.................848,152 Champlain.......... 16,750,700
Mlichiga  n.......... 24,320,481 St. Cla ir...........639,524
Showing a total value of 186,484,905 dollars, as above stated.
To this must be added the passenger trade of the lakes, valued
at 1,000,000 dollars.
The aggregate value of the tonnage of:
Dollars.
Lake Erie is............................... 5,308,085
Lake Huron.............................         75,000
Lake Michigan............................564,435
The mind is lost in astonishment at so prodigious a commerce.
It is not ten years since the first steamer ran round the chain of
lakes.   Population, and its commercial concomitants, are increasing so rapidly, that before twenty years the lake trade
alone will be of greater extent and importance, than the whole
trade of any other nation on the globe!
During the voyage I questioned several of the emigrants.
Most of the natives and Canadians were bound for Wisconsin,
Illinois, and Iowa. The Irish appeared uncertain and wayworn,
and were huddled up in squalid masses, looking, as usual, utterly
wretched.
98 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
Among the numerous stalwart rifld-bearers, I was much struck
with the appearance of one, who, eighteen years ago, had shoul  dered his rifle, taking his young wife by the hand, and gone into
the woods of Michigan.
"I have a nice farm now," said he; "but we still live in the
settler's log-house. You will, however, have a hearty welcome,
when you come, and the sooner the better."
In the course of conversation I found he was returning from
the East, with some beautiful merino sheep. For four of these
animals, which he had imported from France, he had paid 1000
dollars. This gentleman (for gentleman he was, both in man  ner and education) is a favorable specimen of the rising class of
American farmers. Mr. Gale, of Ypsilanti, may, therefore, be
taken as a type of what a great statesman calls "the ballast of
the United States," or the educated and intelligent small land owners.
The population of the city of Detroit has increased, during the
last ten years, from eleven thousand to twenty-six thousand; an
advance which is mainly owing to the facilities afforded by the
Michigan Central Railroad, for concentrating the emigrants from
many routes on their way to the West. An absurd spirit of
speculation has likewise contributed to the increase. Land, for
building-lots, is now valued at higher prices than a city ten
times as large could warrant. This spirit of speculation is now
the curse of the Western States. Five years ago, the land in
question was quite as well situated for building upon as at
present; it has, however, increased from thirty dollars a lot to a
thousand. So great an inflation and imaginary value, cause
individuals to fancy themselves enormously wealthy. If pushed
for money they will borrow at 10 and 12 per cent per annum.
Nay, I have known from 4 to S per cent per month given to
enable parties to hold lots, which will not be available as productive property for many years to come.
99 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
This mania is now (May, 1851) raging furiously all over the
Union; but the chief madness appears to dwell in the far West.
A fearful crash must ensue. In some parts, the farming lands
are enveloped in the vortex of rash schemes; and so insane are
some of the proprietors, that they have actually borrowed money
at enormous interest for further speculations. The madness is
similar (but with less foundation) to the railway mania in London of'45 and'46; and will be followed by as bad, if not worse
results. I do not think the explosion can be far distant, as the
absurd prices to which land has risen, is scaring the stream of
emigration from the territory so cursed. The speculators are
committing suicide with a vengeance. The only salvation for
these speculators is the continued increase of vast swarms of
emigrants, with money, from Europe, which may be the case, as
a far superior and more wealthy class is beginning to appreciate
the advantages to be derived from the rich alluvial plains of
Wisconsin, Iowa, and other Western States.
During my brief stay at Detroit a singular trial was in progress; so singular and altogether unprecedented, that I could not
refrain from attending the Court.
It appeared that an individual had conceived some spite
against the newly opened Michigan Central Railway. To glut
his violent and deadly animosity, he determined to destroy the
whole concern, passengers and all; and, in the prosecution of
his purpose, he formed a secret society of villains to the number
of fifty-two.  So skillfully was this society managed, that, for
two years, the members were enabled to bid defiance to the law,
although the existence of the infamous gang was well known.
During this period they committed a series of depredations, such
as burning the railway dep6t at Detroit, valued at upward of
~20,000, and placing obstructions on the line, in hope of killing
the passengers, in order to ruin the railway.
At length, the railway proprietors attacked them with their
100 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
own weapons, and got several shrewd officials to threaten ven geance for some imaginary grievance. The bait took with the
gang, who, determined once again to burn down the newlyerected depot, entered into communication with some of the
officials. After a long and cautious negotiation, the conspirators decided to admit one of the apparently disaffected officials
into the gang, if he proved himself worthy such an honor. The
test of his worth was, to burn down one of the buildings of the
railroad company.
Having first communicated with the Directors, the building
was set on fire; but precautions had been taken to prevent any
damage. An alarm was nevertheless bruited abroad, far and
near.
The gang now considered their new associate sufficiently im plicated to be part of themselves; and, the proprietors speedily
becoming acquainted with the names of all the conspirators, the
whole gang, numbering fifty-two persons, were apprehended and
thrown into prison. Among them were several, who up to this
time had borne high characters, and were esteemed by their
neighbors as persons of influence and consideration. All sorts of
diabolical instruments were found; principally to blow up trains,
passengers and all.
Such blind and infernal wickedness in a civilized country is
difficult to believe, or even imagine.
As the ramifications of this conspiracy extended far and wide,
it was difficult to ascertain the real facts; but somne persons asserted, with an appearance of truth, that the conspirators felt
aggrieved because their cattle and horses had been killed by the
locomotives, and wanted not only payment for the cattle destroyed, but a bribe or indemnification of 100,000 dollars (~20,000), to
withdraw their hostility. Others went still further, and actually took their part! I was not much surprised at the latter,
as I was once accidentally present at a serenade given to a noto
101 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
rious swindler, on his wriggling out of the hands of justice. This
man, who  had cheated several brokers in Wall-street, to the
amount of ~12,000, escaped through some technical flaw. These
are the means by which Brother Jonathan gets a bad name, to
his great loss, as the following anecdote will prove.
An English gentleman landed in New York on the day of the
swindle. He had crossed the Atlantic with the intention of investing ~100,000 in America; but hearing of the above knavish
transaction, he waited cautiously for the result of the trial; when,
finding that the law did not reach the swindler, he buttoned up
his pocket, and took his passage home.
To return to the conspiracy case, which, previously to my departure from the United States, was concluded. The trial commenced the day I arrived at Detroit, and concluded on the 25th
of September, lasting eighty days. Twelve of the prisoners were
found guilty, and condemned to various terms of imprisonment,
from five to ten years.
Some of the evidence is so extraordinary, and evinces such an
infernal intention, that I have taken a few extracts.
At a place called the "Dry Marsh," there was a very sharp
curve. This dry marsh was composed of a thin layer of earth,
floating on the surface of a lake one hundred feet deep.  Here, in
the worst part of the curve, an obstruction was placed on the rail,
with the intention of launching the passenger-train into this horrible abyss.
"Westcott, cross-examined by Senator Seward.-Have heard
Filley, Corwin, Jack Freeland, and Woliver, speak of getting the
cars off at the Dry Marsh. Filley spoke first, and said,' It will
bury the locomotive. It will bury the whole train. They won't
want coffins, or sextons either.'"
A short passage from the admirable address of the counsel for
the prosecution, is worth extraction.
"A.t the point," said he, "where this obstruction was placed,
102 
TIE REWMOTE SETTLEJMEINTS.
the railroad struck on a curve, with a descending grade, to the
west. The curve obstructs the view of the road, while the de scent renders it impossible to check the speed of a train approach ing firom the east. It is proved that at this point of the road,
beneath a thin stratum of soft, marshy soil, slumbers a concealed
lake of nearly one hundred feet in depth. At the sharpest point
of the curve, on the most dangerous part of the marsh, just where
the effect would be most fatal, was this obstruction placed. The
freight-train, which, by a miracle, escaped destruction, came unexpectedly.  This circumstance, as well as the admission of those
found near the spot, proves that it was for the passenger-train,
heavily laden as it is at this time of year, that this hellish snare
was laid........When the' Dexter' locomotive approached
the Dry Marsh at a slow rate, the obstruction was discovered;
but not in season to stop the train and avoid it. When the engine
had been reversed, and the breaks put on with the energy of
despair, it became evident that it was of no avail, and two men
sprung off.  By a miracle, the train was not thrown off the rail.
The engineer, Spaulding, struggled bravely to stop the engines,
and at last succeeded.  At this moment, up comes Fitch, and
says,'What's the matter,  Spaulding?''Some hyena,' replies
he,'has obstructed the road.'  Fitch then remarks,'By God, you
never can run your cars over this road until you pay for cattle.'
Spaulding remonstrates against this mode of obtaining redress,
and urges his innocence of wrong, and the injustice of endangering his life. To this, one of the company replies,' We would as
soon kill you as any one.'
Another redoubtable scheme was to blow up the train.
"Henry Phelps examined.-Fitch asked me if I had seen a
new work of' internal improvement,' that Doctor Farnham was
getting up. He showed me three tin tubes, one inch in diameter
at one end, and one-fourth inch at the other, and sixteen ol'
eighteen inches long.  Said he,' They are going to be placed ill
163 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
connection with a magazine under the road, to blow up the cars
as they pass.'
"Henry Phelps, examined by Van Arman.-Filley described
the match for burning the dep6t at Detroit. It was made of a
tube, containing several holes lengthways, and filled with combustibles. There were small holes in the centre, glazed, and
varnished, and filled with turpentine; then sealed up. When the
fire penetrated the holes, or chimneys, from the other end, it
would melt the wax, and communicate with the turpentine.
The observations of these ruffians, after throwing a train off the
rail, have a dash of recklessness, at once ludicrous and grim.
"Great fun," says one, "to hunt coons; that coon ran away
last night, but left its tail"-meaning the cars.
"I am very fond of coon-hunting," says another; "it is capital
sport. A bar and a sledge are the best things in the world to
hunt such game. Dry weather, very, when coons run off their
track to drink"-alluding to a locomotive having been forced off
the rail into a pond.
But enough of such frightful and reckless villainy.
104 
CHAPTER III.
An " Irish Jontlenan' -The Michigan Central Railway-Dreary Road  Unhealthiness of the Michigan Forest-land-The Fox and the Poultry  The inland Sea of Michigan-Arrival at Chicago-Wonderful Increase
of Population in this City-Its advantageous Site in Respect of the Chain
of Lakes-.A rival Route-Handsome Villas in Chicago, and the horrible
Odor to which they are exposed-Submerged Prairies-Luxuriant. Growth
-Pork Trade of the West-Lake-steamers-Embryo Cities-Arrival at
Milwaukie —Wonderful Progress of that City-Fictitious Value of Land Dangerous Harbor of Milwaukie-Practicability of floating Breakwaters
in the Lake-harbors-Magnificent Position of Green Bay-Great Advan tages appertaining to the town of MIenasha.
THE following morning, as I was dressing to go by the railway,
which was the scene of the villainy described in the last chapter,
I was disturbed by a loud knocking at my door. Upon inquiry,
I was thus answered:
I'm an Irish jontleman, and want half a dollar."
"What for?" demanded I, opening the door.
"For cleaning them shoes," was the reply.   "Come, give me
the money."
The shoes in question were quite wet, and only a small portion of the dirt had been removed. I merely mention this as the
only instance I ever met with of incivility, at an American hotel.
Of course, I reported him to the proprietor.
The Michigan Central Railway is indeed a well-conducted and
highly-creditable affair.  With a uniform speed of eighteen miles
an hour, it is punctual and safe. In the old countries of the
world, it is very difficult to realize the fact of so good a railway
EF, 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
through primeval forests. The road is extremely dreary. For
miles, we swept through dark and dripping woods; sometimes
over half-cleared fields, rendered hideous by the remains of rotten
and blackened stumps. Several neat and thriving villages were
visible on the route, half-smothered in luxuriant foliage. The excessive exuberance of the vegetation, the oozy richness of the soil,
and the flat, interminable plain, indicate to the most careless observer, that malaria, fever, and ague are indigenous to the Michigan forest-land.
Wild turkeys, quails, pigeons, and innumerable squirrels, were
constantly seen, as the cars rushed roaring through the dismal
solitudes.
On stopping at one of the stations, a loud cackling was heard
in a baggage-truck. The poultry with which it was crammed
appeared violently excited. Loud and incessant was the outcry.
An immediate examination revealed a sly and cunning reynard,
who, the moment the door was opened, frisked his brush, and
levanted into the woods. He must have jumped in at the last
station, without being perceived.   No damage, however,  had
been done, as reynard had doubtless been too much frightened by
the jar and motion to commence operations.
Twelve hours, at a steady uniform rate, brought the train to
New Buffalo-a port on Lake Michigan. A steamer was ready
to convey the travelers to Chicago., In half an hour, the freight
was embarked, and the steamer stood out into the inland sea of
Michigan.   Having stopped a few minutes at a small port in Indiana, she resumed her course; and, after three hours' steaming
across the bottom of the lake, arrived at Chicago.
This city is one of those extraordinary phenomena peculiar to
young America. It has increased in population from three thousand in 1840 to above twenty thousand in 1850. So enormous
a growth is mainly owing to its advantageous site at the head of
the navigation of the chain of lakes. At present, it possesses
106 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
the only communication between the lakes and the Mississippi
and has taken full advantage of its position in reference to
these vast and comprehensive thoroughfares. I "guess," however, that its glory will be very much curtailed, if not eclipsed,
by the new and far preferable route through Green Bay and Lake
Winnebago.
The ground on which Chicago is built, is low and swampyalmost even with the waters of the lake. A long row of handsome villas has recently sprung into existence on the lake shore.
These elegant buildings challenge the attention of a stranger, and
would command his admiration if there was no sea-breeze.  Unfortunately this wind was blowing at the time I took my first
promenade, and the odor which it put into activity was horrible. I can compare it to nothing but the fish-market at Aberdeen, out of whose harbor I was once driven in my yacht from
a similar cause.  On examination, I found that all the offal, and(
other fetid matter, was usually deposited on the shore of the lake,
invitingly close to the drawing-room windows of the Yankee
aristocracy.
"Heavens, what a taste!" exclaimed I. "Let us be off:
What queer people these Yankees are to endure such a nasty
neighborhood!"
I have, however, remarked that when a nuisance arrives at a
certain pitch, Brother Jonathan corrects it "pretty smart, I
guess."
The prairies. with which Chicago is immediately surrounded,
were at this time almost submerged.   Vast droves of cattle
were feeding on the rank and luxuriant grass; and I was informed that so thick is the growth that it is cut for hay, without
being in the least deteriorated by the grazing of the kine.
Chicago is a remarkable example of the sudden and compleite(
changes caused by quick transit, and modern legislation.  This
city is the chief commercial town of the State of Illinois. Within
107 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
the last few yea*s it has superseded the Irish producers of" Navy
beef" for British consumption, to the amount of thirty-five per
cent. This is only a foretaste of-the extraordinary changes that
will soon take place.
The annexed table will give some idea of the very large supply
of hogs. The decrease in exports is, I believe, solely owing to
the increased consumption arising from the immense flood of
emigration continually pouring in. The produce can and will be
multiplied in a ratio that is incalculable.
We give below returns from the West, keeping each State
separate.
PORK TRADE OF THE WEST.
1851.
Animals.
64,027
324,529
388,556
1850.
Animals.
152.990
401,755
553,745
Previously reported, exclusive of Cincinnati......
Cincinnati...............................................
Total..............
INDIANA.
185i0.
Animals,
320,175
60,000
none
900
2,000
4,500
900
4,500
3,300
1.000
1,900
3,500
none
14,000
416,675
Previously reported, exclusive of Terre Haute......
Terre Haute...............................
Fort Wayne..............................
Huntington.....................................  
Lagro................................... 
Wabashtown..............................
Americus.................................
Durkee's Ferry.................................          4
Darwin..................................
York....................................
Frankfort...............................
Armesburgh..............................
Carlisle..................................
Evansville...............................
Total..............
108
OHIO.
1851.
Animals
274,649
65,548
2,000
500
1,500
1,000
700
5,000
1,200
1,500
2,500
2,000
2,500
12,000
372,497 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
1851.
Animals.
35,000
25,000
9,000
4,000
30,000
19,000
12,000
2,400
8,000
4,000
13,000
4,000
165,400
1850.
Animals.
37,000
40,000
9,000
6,500
21,000
28,000
24,000
400
19,500
3,800
11,600
15,000
215,800
Beardstown...............................
Alton.....................................
Meredosia....................9,0
Naples...................................
Peoria...................................
Pekin.....................................
Canton...................................
Liverpool.................................
Springfield.................................
Chillicothe...............................
Lacon...................................
Peru.....................................
MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
1851.
Animals.
85,000
17,000
20,000
22.000
19,000
161,000
St. Louis (about)............................
Hannibal..................................
Quincy.....................................     0
Keokuk...................................
Burlington I...............................
Total...............
Ohio....................................
Indiana.................................
Illinois..................................
Mississippi...............................
Cuniberland Valley.........................
Kentucky..................................
1850-51.
Animals.
388,556
372,497
165,400
161,000
30X000
205,414
1,322,867
1849-50.
Animals.
553,745
416,675
21 5,800
225,000
40,000
201,000
1:652,220
1,322,867
329,353
Deficiency in number................
109
1850.
Animals.
124,000
24,000
29,000
19,000
29,000
225,000 
TOiUR IN AMERICA.
There are yet a great many points in Missouri, Illinois, and
Iowa not returned.
Not liking the appearance of Chicago, I stopped but a short
time, and no doubt lost sight of many beautiful scenes on the
more elevated ground inland.
From Chicago, steamers ply daily to Milwaukie, Wisconsin,
and every port of importance round the lakes. The Milwaukie
steamer coasts along the western shore, calling at several
embryo cities; such as Waukegan, Racine, &c.
After a run of seven hours (ninety-six miles), we arrived at
Milwaukie, a city beautifully situated on undulating ground, and
having the advantage of a small river, the Menomonee, which
forms the harbor. This is indeed a wonderful place, and per haps the best example of progress in the Union. In 1835, there
was not a single house on the spot, but in 1840 the inhabitants,
including half-breeds, numbered  1700.   At  the  last census
(1850), the population amounted to 20,000.
To any one accustomed to the growth of cities in the old
world, this appears incredible; but when one is actually a
witness to the spacious and tasteful blocks of buildings, the wide
and regular streets, the well-filled stores, abounding with customers no less than goods, the mind is lost in contemplating so
marvelous and substantial an increase. It is, however, impossible to divest one's self of certain misgivings, generated by so
rapid a growth. Twenty years ago, the land on which the city
stands was not worth more than the government price, 14 dollars
per acre (5s. 5d.)  At present the lots are valued, in good
locations, at 200 dollars a foot frontage. This astonishing
augmentation of value has excited undue speculation, from the
fact that individuals holding this land, suddenly became rich,
and, having cleared immense sums, sold their lands to speculators,
who immediately stimulated the public mind by means peculiar
to the genus.  Their efforts were seconded by the immense influx
110 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
-f emigration; and the lots rapidly rose far above their worth.
This fictitious value had its effect upon the neighboring lands,
which likewise became much inflated. The inhabitants are now
likely to suffer from the mania of speculation, as the emigrants
are becoming frightened at the high range of prices, and are
stretching onward in other directions.
Milwaukie, for a great city, has a formidable disadvantage;
namely, a bad and dangerous harbor. This vital defect is
common to all the towns on the shores of Lake Michigan, from
Chicago to the entrance of Green Bay; and it can only be
rectified at a very heavy expense, as the small streams, that
usually run through the harbors, are constantly forming bars, and
thus damming up the entry. There being no tides to sweep
away these accumulations, they become a serious annoyance.
The absolute want of a safe roadstead for so great a length of
coast-line, must in future exercise an injurious influence in that
quarter. Emigration is pouring in so rapidly, and the demand
for water-transit accommodation is so pressing, that some harbors
of refuge are imperatively demanded.
After aceareful examination of most of the lake harbors I am
convinced that any stationary or permanent breakwaters would
be far too expensive to be attempted at present. A cheaper and
simpler method must be adopted, and that speedily, or thelosses
will increase in a frightful proportion. Fully possessed by this
idea, I had the satisfaction of proposing to the people of the
lakes, through the columns of the Milwaukie Sentinel, the formation of floating breakwaters, which would be of inestimable
service to the lake vessels, as numerous indentations are on the
coast, where a floating breakwater would form a very fair and
tolerably secure harbor. This proposal met with the approbation
of the lake press; the writers in which at once perceived the
economy and desirability of such a structure.  Wood is a drug
in this country; and the absence of tides renders the secure
III 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
mooring of such a breakwater, comparatively easy and certain.
I venture to prognosticate that these sea-defenses must be adopted
in most, if not all, the lake harbors. Dunkirk, the present ter   minus of the great Erie Railroad, would be immensely benefited
by such a breakwater.
Even with the assistance of the above structures, I do not
think that all the engineering skill in the world will ever make
a great shipping-port on the west side of Lake Michigan. Dame
Nature has denied the facilities-nay, the essentials-for a good
natural harbor; and, therefore, the labor of man will, in a great
~ measure, be thrown away on such undertakings. Providence
has, however, amply compensated humanity by the magnificent
harbor of Green Bay, the head of which will eventually become
) the great entrepbt to supply the Mississippi, Western Wisconsin,
Iowa, Minnesota, and the upper part of Illinois. I do not think
the Americans have shown their usual acuteness in neglecting
this part of Wisconsin, from which the water communication is
nearly completed to the Mississippi, and begins to open the eyes
of our translantic brethren, as the following extract from the
"New York Herald," of December, 1851, plainly evinces.
One of the remarkable characteristics of the present day, is
the craving desire for new and cheap lines of transit for western
demands. At present New York supplies the whole western
world by the magnificent inland water-communication of the
lakes.
"A rival spirit, of formidable character, has manifested itself
in the Mississippi cities, St. Louis particularly. These cities
begin to feel that their wealth and importance justify them in
throwing off their dependence on the New York market, and
that much greater profits can be realized by importing from
Europe direct. Such a measure successfully earried out, would
be a blow of no trifling importance to the interests of the Empire
City.
112 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
"To avoid this premeditated blow, the New York merchants
must carry the war into the enemy's camp, and supply not only
the valley of the lakes, but likewise inundate the upper Missis
sippi. This can easily be effected by the route through Green
Bay, Lake Winnebago, the Fox and Wisconsin rivers.
"On a careful personal survey, we find the distances in time as
follows: Green Bay to Lake Winnebago (next spring when the
communication is opened) five hours; Lake Winnebago, through
Fox River to Fort Winnebago, forty-eight hours; Fort Winnebago to the Mississippi, sixteen hours; total, seventy hours.
"Green Bay has a decided advantage over every other port in
Lake Michigan, from its perfect safety in any weather. This
advantage secures not only a lower rate of insurance, but a
certainty of punctuality, to which no port on Lake Michigan
can pretend. It is likewise many miles nearer New York than
Milwaukie, and vastly nearer than Chicago. Goods, therefore,
dispatched from the Eastern cities vi& Green Bay, will be halfway across Wisconsin to the Mississippi before they can arrive
at Milwaukie or Chicago. The complaints of delay at present,
from the towns and villages en route are very bitter. Some of
these places were supplied from Milwaukie, others from Sheboygan, and others from more remote distances. The time occupied
in land carriage from these localities, varied from three to six
weeks, and incurred an enormous expense in the freight and
breakage.   On approaching the Mississippi, we found many
goods were sent from New Orleans; but the purchase and
freightage were much more expensive.
"' What can we do?' asked the trader.'Our expenses and
losses are so great by land carriage from Lake Michigan that we
are obliged to use the Mississippi.'
"We have carefully examined this route, and are of opinion
that it is the best in the western world. We were particularly
struck with the site of a small village, Menasha, at the end of
113 
TOUR. IN AMERICA.
Lake Winnebago. From this place to the head of the navigation of Green Bay, a plank road was being constructed; which,
when complete, will shorten the distance by four miles. As the
grade is nearly level, we predict that the largest portion of goodstraffic, and all the passengers, will take advantage of this
' short cut,' instead of the roundabout delay of canals and locks.
Menasha is similarly situated to the location of the Genesee
Falls, but has a much finer water-power, sufficient, we belieyve,
for one hundred and twenty mills. It is in fact the best waterpower in the United States, for economy and adaptability. The
soil likewise is similar to that in the vicinity of Rochester, New
York, rather richer and deeper. With such exceeding advantages, we venture to anticipate at no distant date it will be
a successful rival to the large cities on the shores of Lake
Michigan.
"We can not understand why the Eastern capitalists should
have overlooked such palpable advantages. It is out-and-out
the best position in Wisconsin for a great city.   The Green
Bay route once open, it will be the fault of Eastern merchants
if they do not command the traffic. The channel selected by
the flood tide of supply will assuredly command the strong ebb
of produce.
"Merchants of the'Empire City,' how is it to be?  It depends upon yourselves. Is this small stream (soon to expand
into a vast tide of commerce) to flow for the benefit of New
York or New Orleans?"
This extract is from one of the American papers, which,
except that it sometimes defaces its columns with abuse of England, may be considered among the most able in the country.
I have no doubt that a large and flourishing city must soon
arow up somewhere on the Green Bay and Mississippi route.
The town or village of Menasha, mentioned above, appears a
likely place enough, as it is surrounded with as rich a country
114 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
as the world produces.  The water is supplied by Lake Winnebago, a vast and never-failing reservoir;  and the climate is
extremely healthy. The amazing quantity of fresh water in this
vicinity modifies the extreme dryness of the air, peculiar to the
United States. Here metal rusts rapidly; and guns, that, in
six months' disuse in New York, were bright and free from the
smallest particle of dust, were covered in this place with rust in
twenty-four hours.
115 
CHAPTER IV.
JOURNEY TO THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
Embark for the Straits of Mackinaw-Crowded Steamer: its uncomforta  ble Condition, except as to the Food of the Passengers-Gigantic
Strides of the Far West-Cupidity of a Colored Waiter-Shores of Wis  consin-" The Sleeping Bear"-The  Maniton Islands-Singular Cir  cumstances in Natural History-Island of Mackinaw-Large  Compa  nies of Fish-The Straits of Mackinaw-Optical Delusions-A Mirage  The Light-house  of War-e-chance-Fishing for Mackinaw  Trout  Spontaneous Vegetation on Fox Island-Embark for Green Bay-Ap  proach the Mormon Settlement at Beaver Island-Threat of Vengeance
against the Mormons-Attempt to vindicate thenm-A Visit to the
" Gentiles"- Polygamy-Fugitive Saints-Great Increase  and Pros perity of the Mormons-The Promised Land-Scene in the House of
Representatives-Recent Intelligence respecting the Mormons-o-Mor mon Poetry.
DAILY steamers ply from Chicago to Buffalo, calling at Milwaukie. I took advantage of one of these, and embarked in the
evening for the Straits of Mackinaw-the connecting link of the
two huge "fresh-water seas," Michigan and Huron.
The steamer was crowded with passengers; the cabin, as
usual, at fever heat, and full of squalling children. I can not
speak well of these steamers from the specimen I took passage
in. They are a sad contrast to the beautiful vessels in the
Eastern States, whose perfect cleanliness, comfort, and luxury,
are the admiration of all. This vessel was filthily dirty; and
the courtesy scant. A single towel was allowed for the use of
hundreds; and was (as may be imagined) an exceedingly disgusting clout.  There was no excuse for this as the vessel was 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
coining money by her large freight; and the number of passengers was so great, that three dinners were necessary to satisfy
them all.  In this respect, the appointments were not deficient.
The dining-table extended the whole length of the vessel, except the slight interruption (perhaps fifteen feet) caused by the
engine protruding from below. This vast table had room for
about two hundred and fifty people, and was literally covered
with little dishes-two at least for each person.
I was much interested and amused to scan carefully this
crowd of western passengers; and could not help thinking how
few years had elapsed since the land had been redeemed from
its Indian inhabitants. What gigantic strides the Far West has
taken in five years! and what a prospect is before it!  Not aa
old van was to be seen, because time enough had not passed
to silver the hair of the first settlers!
I was sitting in a large arm-chair, musing on this wonderfil
people and country, when my attention was attracted by a
whispered conversation between one of the passengers and a
colored waiter. I soon perceived that a bright quarter-dollar
had passed, into the dingy hand of the waiter, who advanced
toward me.
"That arm-chair is engaged, sir," said he.
As there were six or eight more of these esteemed seats, I
quietly moved to another. Still following me up, my knowing
darkey managed to pocket from different passengers a quarterdollar for each arm-chair, and oust me from them all.
I was too much amused at the fellow's impudence and dexterity to be angry, and quietly submitted to this anti-republican
wrong.   The steamer's name shall not be mentioned, as I am
sure the owners do not countenance this sort of "black-mail."
Perceiving that I was aware of his tricks, the rascal cast at
me queer looks, as much as to say, "There now, only see what
: nile seat youn l-"rght have had falr   quarter-dollar."
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TOUR IN AMERICA.
Coasting along the shores of Wisconsin, we called at two
ports, Sheboygan and Manitowoc; then steered diagonally across
the lake toward Michigan, continuing north along the shores
of that State.
A remarkable projection now became visible, called by the
Indians, "The Sleeping Bear," from its fancied resemblance to
that animal. We soon arrived at the Manitou Islands, which
are of extremely  curious formation.   Densely covered with
wood, they are, nevertheless, apparently composed entirely of
sand.  I was informed by Captain M'Comb, of the U. S. Topographical Engineers, that when employed in surveying this
group, he desired to plant a surveying station on the crest of a
sand hill. On attempting to cut down certain bushes for the
purpose, he was mych astonished to find that they were the tops
of some cotton-wood trees.  From  the still living foliage,  he
came to the conclusion that the drifting sand had completely
buried them alive; and believed that two years, at the utmost,
was the period of time required to envelop them to the depth
of sixty feet. It was very difficult, if not impossible, to conceive whence the sand was derived, as the island is extremely
limited in extent, not being twelve miles in circumference, and
at least the same distance from the nearest shores.
After wooding at this station, we proceeded for the Straits of
Mackinaw, arriving at the island of that name the same evening. I perambulated the beach the following morning, and was
struck by large companies of fish close to the shore. Several
hundred in a dense mass were crowded close together, with their
noses on the edge of the shelving beach. I watched this animated mass with great interest, and concluded my survey with
a discharge from a duck gun. This secured several fine fish,
weighing from three to seven pounds.
The following day, by invitation from  my esteemed friend
Captain M'Comb, the chief of the Lake Survey, we embarked in
118 
THIE P,EMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
the steam vessel "Surveyor," and proceeded through the Straits
of Mackinaw to inspect the new light-house off the Fox Islands.
The optical delusion in the Strait, during-certain conditions of
the atmosphere, caused by refraction, presents a mirage which is
ever varying and eminently beautiful. Sudden and extraordi nary changes astound the most experienced. On this occasion
the phenomena was seen to perfection. At one moment, seemed
to arise vast sandy cliffs, exhibiting huge chasms, gullies, and
caverns. Fallen timber and water-courses appeared so clear and
natural, that the most experienced were deceived. Anon, the
cliffs "melted into thin air," and a vision of a large inverted
forest took its place. This phase of the delusion disappeared,
and vast savannas, and apparently interminable grassy plains,
arose as if by enchantment.
The lighthouse of War-e-chance is situated about two miles
from the FoiX Islands, and is a remarkable structure.  Before
commencing the foundation, an accurate model was taken of the
crest of the reef. A wooden frame, one hundred feet by ninety,
was then built on a neighboring island, St. Helena, and towed
to the reef.  This huge structure was divided into compartments,
leaving a large hollow space in the centre for the lighthouse.
By the aid of several cables and anchors, the frame was adjusted
in its place, and then sunk by filling the compartments with
ponderous stones. So well was the shape fitted to the bottom,
that it sank exactly square, all parts bearing evenly on the reef.
This was a task of' great difficulty, as the north side was in four
feet, and the south in fifteen feet water.
During the progress of the work, a singular circumstance
occurred; so singular that, unless witnessed by persons whose
testimony is beyond all doubt, I should hardly like to mention
it.  A huge boulder, estimated to weigh sixty tons, was rolled a
distance of fifty yards, grazing the corner of the frame of the
above structure in its course.  This Herculean performance was
119
1:
4.     -. 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
achieved in one night, during a severe gale from the northwest.
As heavy ice was moving at the time, it was imagined that it
had considerable influence on this Titanic movement. Long
before the ponderous masses are in motion, the structure is coinpletely fortified by the ice that forms from the spray. The
building is therefore now substantially fixed. The hollow centre is completely filled in with hydraulic cement,  and raised
some feet above the surface of the water. A massive brick tower, sixty feet high, then rises from this solid foundation. On the
top is a powerful lantern, visible at an amazing distance in this
clear and transparent atmosphere.
"Would you like to see how we catch Mackinaw trout?" inquired my worthy host.
"Amazingly," I replied, delighted at the chance of sport.
Jumping into the' Surveyor's' boat, we pushed off in the
direction of the Fox Islands. Two large cod-lines were unrolled,
and allowed to drag about two hundred feet behind the boat.
To these lines were fastened large cod-hooks; one baited with a
piece of pork, the other with a shining strip of tin.
"Now look out for a bite!" exclaimed our host; "we must
secure a dozen at least before we land."
I had not much faith in this rough method of catching so
delicate a fish as trout, and held the line with some degree of
incredulity. My host perceived my skepticism, and smiled benignantly at such fresh-water ignorance. Suddenly, I felt a
violent jerk, and the line slipped several feet through my fingers
before I was on the alert.  I then began to tug with "might
and main," and after considerable difficulty lugged in a huge
lake trout, weighing thirty pounds. Before we arrived at the
island, the bottom of our boat was alive with flapping silvery
fins and tails.
War-c-chance, on Fox Island, is densely covered with wood.
Or the small prairies or natural clearings, many beautiful wild
120 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
flowers flourish.  Wild gooseberries, cherries, currants, and rasp berries were likewise scattered about in great profusion. I was
informed that the destructive potato disease was quite unknown
in this region.
While forming my plans for a thorough exploration of Mackinaw and its vicinity, I was taken with a lake-warning; that is
to say, the steamer was approaching to convey passengers to
Green Bay. A few minutes sufficed for hasty preparations, and
I found myself steaming through the Straits in the good vessel
"Julius Morton."   In this steamer I experienced great comfort,
cleanliness, and civility. The cabins are excellent; a small sitting-room being attached to each sleeping cabin. Calling at
St. Helena, the vessel again commenced plowing the dark blue
water of the lake; so clear, so blue, that it compared advantageously with the tropical seas. I discovered that we were approaching the famed Mormon settlement at Beaver Island.
A group was assembled on the forecastle, discussing the recent
outrages among the Mormons, who were violently abused by a
pale attenuated man, in the garb of a sailor. He spoke of a murderous attack made by them upon himself and brother.  Elevating his wounded arm, he described the onslaught in animated
terms.   "They fired five balls through my  brother's body!"
exclaimed he.  "I will pursue them to the world's end, until I
get vengeance."
His story had a wonderful effect upon the listeners, who became
excited, and even threatened to raise a body of men to exterminate the rascally fanatics.
After listening for some time, I ventured to say:
"Well, gentlemen, this appears very dreadful; but it would
be as well to hear the other side, and not make up your minds
on an ex parte statement."
This observation was assented to, particularly by a couple of
persons who had been silent listeners to all that had passed.,As
F
121 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
the vessel was now approaching the island, one of these persons
addressed me, and strongly took the Mormons' part.
"Let me introduce you," said he, "to some of the chiefs; you 
will see, as an intelligent stranger, how falsely they are accused.'
This assertion certainly staggered the impression previously
made, and I determined to judge for myself.
"Do you think," inquired he, "that a party of intelligent, in
dustrious, and careful men, with considerable property at stake,
would willfully comnmit such blind and foolish atrocities? There
is a conspiracy against them."
Soon afterward we ran into a beautiful land-locked bay-very
similar in appearance to the coral lagoons in the South Seas, and
the vessel was lashed alongside a projecting wharf. In a few
moments the space between the vessel's side and the wharf was
swarming with fish from one to three feet long.
I landed, and strolled into the village. On my way, I entered
into conversation with several of the inhabitants, but found them
all, as they expressed it, Gentiles. This is the-name given by the
Mormons to those who do not belong to their sect. The Gentiles
positively affirmed that each of the Mormons had more than one
wife. Several were mentioned to us by name, who were asserted
to have from four to six each!  If this be true, it is certainly an
astounding fact in a civilized country. My suspicions were rather
strengthened on Iearning from an officer of the steamboat that a
large party of Mormons were anxious to take passage in the vessel.  As the officer expressed it, "they wanted to make a bolt of
it," because the sheriff of the State was on his way to arrest them.
The Mormons of Beaver Island are only an off-shoot or branch
from the main body, who have migrated far inland. The movement of these singular religionists. has assumed the condition of
an important popular agitation; and after much suffering and
many reverses, the sect has achieved a condition of eminent industrial prosperity.  The name of the mock-hero-his ignorance,
122 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
and want of character-the low cunning of his accomplices-the
open vices in which they indulged, and the extraordinary success
of the sect they founded, is one of the most singular incidents of
the present age. In twenty years, the sect or company has in  creased to nearly half a million. They occupy one of-the richest
portions of the United States, have a regularly organized govern  ment, and are represented in Congress by a delegate.
With missions in every part of the States, in every capital in
Europe, in Mecca, Jerusalem, and among the islands of the Indian
and Pacific Oceans, all the disciples are charged with the duty of
making converts, and gathering them to the Promised Land of
Utah, or Deseret. They must soon have a sufficient population
to claim admission to the Union.
The promised land is situated in the valley of Sanpeech, and
they have settled the country two hundred and forty miles north.
The principal part of their territory is situated on the banks of a
beautiful river, named by them the Western Jordan. It was on
the right bank of this stream, on a rich table-land, traversed by
exhaustless waters falling from the highlands, that the Mormon
pioneers, on the 24th of July, 1847, pitched their first camp in
their present locality, and consecrated the ground. The Mormon
wheat-farms ill this district are said already to cover as large an
extent of land as Rhode Island.
Recent information (December, 1851) from the New Jerusalem, justifies apprehension that the ambition of the territorial
governor, Brigham Young, will cause great difficulty. A considerable portion of the territorial officers, who are appointed
by the United States government, are preparing to leare for the
Atlantic States.
There are seven counties in Utah, respectively named Davis,
Great Salt Lake, Iron, San Pete, Tooele, Utah, and Weber.
During a recent debate in the House of Representatives at
Washington, as reported in the "New York Herald," on the ques
123 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
tion of the legality of the election of Mr. Bernheisel, the delegate
from Utah, Mr. Briggs, of New York, remarked that he had good
reason for asserting that Mr. Bernheisel had received his certificate
of election through fraud and corruption; and that he paid Brigham Young, the Governor of the Territory, and chief saint of the
Mormons, the sum of 3000 dollars (~600) to secure his seat in
Congress.
This announcement created extraordinary excitement and coInfusion; members rose upon their feet, and the Speaker had much
difficulty in quelling the disturbance. One member wished
to know whether polygamy was really countenanced; another,
whether the delegate himself was a polygamist? Several members averred that if Mr. Bernheisel was guilty of any such abominable conduct, he or they must leave the house; they could not,
and would not, associate with any such men.
After great noise and confusion, the subject was postponed to
another day, when it is expected that developments of a most
astounding character will be made.
One of the initiated Mormons, named M'Gee van Dusen, disliking their mummeries, left them in disgust, and published a
pamphlet, entitled "The Spiritual Wife-dogrma of Mormonism."
This contains a curious revelation of the profane secrets and initiation of these deluded and ignorant people.
Should any of my readers desire to be acquainted with the
peculiar ceremonies and tenets of these fanatics, they may be
found in a recent number of a weekly religious paper published
in London.
In the beginning of the present year, the Speaker of the House
of Representatives laid before the house a report relative to Utah,
from the judges and Secretary of that Territory, dated on the 19th
day of December, 1851, giving an account of the deplorable
state of things in the district in question.   Among the documents is a resolution of the Legislature of Utah, passed in Sep
124 
THE REMEOTE SETTLEMENTS.
tember, 1851, stating, that "As B. D. Harris, Secretary of the
Territory, is about to leave, abscond, or absent himself from the
said territory, in case he shall refuse, neglect, or in anywise fail
to deliver the papers, records, documents, money, or any other
property or articles pertaining to said office, it shall be the duty
of the United States marshal for Utah to arrest the said Harris,
and him safely keep in custody, until he shall comply with the
resolution."
"Mr. Bernheisel, delegate from Utah, stated that the communications to the President contained grave charges and exaggerations, not to say falsehoods. He knew his constituents to be loyal
to the Government, and they should not be disparaged, and
charged with gross crimes and enormities."
House adjourned.
It appears, therefore, that the Mormons have commenced open
hostilities with the United States.
The most recent intelligence respecting the Mormons, is given
in a letter, dated Deseret, 15th November, 1851.
The affairs of Deseret are in a very flourishing condition.
The crops generally have been good, though the beets and potatoes are rather light. Wheat is cheaper than ever before known
in the mountains. The foundation of the Tabernacle is laid and
the only hindrance is for timbers. The joiners have been in their
new shop on Temple block a week or two. The railroad is progressing; the grading completed to a considerable extent. The
public barn, also Presidents Young and Kimbal's barns, are inclosed. Many cattle, horses, and much produce have been received as tithing. The hearts of all rejoice that they have done
their duty in paying their tithing. Parent schools are established, in which persons of both sexes are to be qualified for teachers
in the common schools; and to improve themselves in the higher
branches of education, such as algebra, astronomy, &c.
"At the first District Court for the Territory of Utah.  How
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TOUR IN AMERICA.
ard Egan was tried for killing James Munro, who it seems had
seduced his wife.
"George Smith, counsel for prisoner, urged as argument in favor of his client, that the prisoner had acted in accordance with
' mountain-law.' In relation to this miountain-law, he demands,
What is natural justice with this people? The principle, the
only one that beats and throbs through the hearts of the entire
inhabitants of this Territory, is simply this: The man who seduces his neighbor's wife must die, and her nearest relative must
kill him."
The following is given as a specimen of Salt Lake poetry.
Like every thing else connected with the singular people to whom
the writer belongs, the stanzas of Mr. Phelps are wild and eccentric. Of meaning, they are certainly not destitute; but no
metrical writer, except a disciple of the arch-mounltebank, Joseph
Smith (founder of the preposterous sect of Mormons, or "Latter
Day Saints ") would have adopted so queer a style as characterizes the verses now quoted. How do the Mormon fanatics reconcile the licentious practices imputed to them, with the gloom of
Mr. Phelps's muse, rendered more oppressive by the grotesque
familiarity of its utterance, which seems to fondle, in a halfjocose spirit, the mysteries of the charnel-house.
WHAT NEXT.
BY W. W. PHELPS.
What next? They say
There is a spot of real quiet,
Where ne'er an one doth fiet and riot;
And yet all flesh is great to shy it,
And would, by wealth or art, defy it;
But ah! they can't.
What next?'Tis said
The king and courtier, full of treasure,
The priest and people, by long measure,
126 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
The judge and lawyer, at their leisure,
Have tried to snub such dreadful pleasure,
But all have failed.
What next? Oh, there
No whisp'ring tongue can speak it,
Or shrinky tub doth leak it;
The vilest one, or purest meek-wit,
In perfect peace lies there a secret                   And will a while.
What next? Oh, tell
Me where is such a place of sleeping,
Where every thing. in perfect keeping,
Is free from pain, and free from weeping?
For age and life for it are leaping                   Amonlg the tombs.
What next? My friends,
Ye goodly wise, or fools who err itThe grave takes all by common merit,
For there's no false, contending spirit;
The finest dust " grave-worms" inherit                   The Grave is next.
127 
CHAPTER V.
Transparence and deep blue of the Lake Water-Arrival at Green Bay  An embryo City-Offers for Sale of Land-Steaming up the Fox River  Interesting View-Spacious Lock-Pursuit of Deer swimming across
the River-Numerous Rapids-Gigantic Chlain of Water-communica  tion-Village of Appleton-Water-power-Critical Situation-Village
of Nenah-Governor Doty-Lake Winnebago-Exquisite Scenery-Eli  gible District for Emigrants-Wisconsin —Fond-du-lac-Clear Fountains
Natural Advantages of the District-New Plank Road-Chain of Lakes
-Extraordinary Progress of Wisconsin-great Increase of Population  -Favorite Haunt of the Menomnenee Indians.
LEAVING Beaver Island, the steamer stood toward Green Bay,
in the smoothest and clearest water I ever beheld. The deep
blue of the transparent element forcibly reminded me of the
intertropical ocean. The illusion was almost perfect, anid was
varied only by the solemn stillness of the surface, alnd absence of
Mother Ocean's ceaseless and majestic roll, even in her deepest
slumber.
On rising in the morning, we were running up Green Bay;
well named from its appearance. At noon, the vessel was lashed alongside the wharf at the village, an embryo city.
I was accosted by several persons, anxious to sell farms. Curious to know their prices, I led them on; and was much amused
at their exorbitant demanrds-about three times more than they
would gladly accept.  From mistaken judgment, or rather mistaken interest, the good citizens of the "Far West" will never
allow any place to be eligible for the supposed emigrant, but
their own. This partial feeling renders it almost impossible for 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
,- stranger to form a true opinion without a personal inspectioll.
After an hour's delay, I embarked in a wretched little stear er, and steamed up the strong current of the Fox River. The
engines were placed on deck, quite uncovered. The view was
interesting, from the fact, that only four years had elapsed since
its cession to the United States. The right bank, goilng up, is
still occupied by wild Indians. Wild woods and rich farmins were
rapidly passed on the one hand; while the rough land on the
other, still in a state of nature, clearly indicated the wild man's
abode.
Six miles above Green Bay there is a spacious lock, which
enables the steamer to proceed above the first rapids. Wonderful work for a State only three years old. On proceeding, the
scenery became wilder; the woods closing to the water's edge.
Suddenly a cry on deck called my attention; a fat buck was
discerned, swimming across the river.  The movement on deck,
slight as it was, attracted the attention of the concealed Indians. In a moment, a bark canoe shot out toward the deer,
firantically;ropelled by its dusky crew. The animal wavered
for a moment, turned toward the nearest shore, landed, and
disappeared.
This incident excited the emulation of a sportsman on board,
and, immediately after, a huge duck-gun made its appearance.
In a short time, another deer was descried ahead, taking his
evening's bath. He did not appear intimidated by the approaching steamer, but floated about with the utmost unconcern. Soon,
however, the loud snorting of the high-pressure escape-pipe, appeared to rouse his attention; when, turning his antlered head,
he strove hard to gain the nearest shore.  Alas! alas! the huge
duck-gun is rising to the eye. The suspense is horrible! Mingled feelings of hope for the noble stag, and anxiety for the successful shot, are combating in the minds of all.
Fe
129 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
A loud report, and the poor stag disappears; driven under
water by a huge charge of No. 3 shot. Again he rises; strikes
vigorously for the strand-achieves it-bounds over a prostrate
tree, and falls dead!
The steamer now struggles hard to overcome the numerous
rapids. Occasionally, a loud and startling roar is heard-and a
plug is blown out of the cylinder. The engineer coolly sticks it
in, and taps it down, smoking his pipe as usual.  Eight miles
on is another lock; enabling the vessel to ascend six miles farther to Kaukanau.
We have been particular in describing the Fox River thus far,
as the portage of nine miles to Appleton is, at this moment, the
only break in the line of inland navigation between the Mississippi and St. Lawrence. When the canal (now in rapid progress) is completed, there will be another link in the most
gigantic and wonderful chain of water-communication the world
ever beheld.   On the strength of this communication being
opened, villages are springing up on the banks with unexampled
rapidity. Appleton, for instance, has now upward of one thousand inhabitants. It is exactly eighteen months since the first
tree was felled!
The water-power on this river must render it a place of some
importance. At Kaukanau, the river falls forty-four feet in a
mile, and the bed is full of small islands. This gives great
advantage for applying the falling water. At Appleton the fall
is thirty-four feet in one mile. We journeyed the nine miles of
portage in a wagon, through the dense woods. No person can
understand the perils and dangers, from stumps and swamps,
unless he has had experience.
Fortunately, Mr. Blood, our Jehu; was an exceedingly eare i'.
and expert driver. After two hours and a half of torment, we
were brought up all standing, by running against a stump, still
sticking out of the swamp. For a brief space we rested to give
130 
THE REMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
the horses breath. In the interval the following dialogue took
place.
First Passenger. —" Pray, driver, are there any wolves about
here?"
"Plenty," answered Mr. Blood, "and bears, too."
At this reply the passengers wriggled uneasily; and, in-truth,
the prospect was dreary enough: the wagon was at a dead lock;
the night dark as pitch, with the certainty that all the bridges
were broken, and the lowlands overflowed.
"I guess I'll get out andfeel for the road," said the driver.
Suiting the action to the word, out he jumped, throwing the
reins on the horses' backs. They, poor creatures, either jaded
with their labors, or cowed by the distant howling of wolves,
now distinctly heard, remained perfectly still.
Here was a nice position for an English lady, one of the passengers.
"Are you not afraid?" I heard her husband whisper in her ear.
" No," replied she; "not while you are with me."
At this moment the driver returned, exclaiming that he knew
where he was.
At his "git up," intended as encouragement to the horses,
wey slowly drew us through the swampy soil; at length, after
,everal hair-breadth'scapes we arrived at Appleton.
The steamer for Winnebago Lake, not being quite ready for
service, we were obliged to take the usual conveyance; namely,
the ferry boat.
Two hours' hard work enabled our lusty rowers to take us to
the little village of Nenah, on the banks of Lake Winnebago.
After a hurried dinner I got on board the lake steamer, little
prepared for what was to open on my unprepared vision. Fortunately, I met an esteemed friend, Mr. Doty, the Governor of
the State of Wisconsin, who invited me to mount the upper deck,
and see the view.
.131 
'TOUR IN AMERICA.
At the rate of thirteen miles an hour, the high-pressure little
steamer shot out of the creek; and revealed to our astonished
sight the most enchantilng scenery.
Lake Winnebago is about thirty miles long, and ten to twelve
broad. A high ridge of limestone bounds it on the east, trending
at each end of the lake to the west, nearly as far as the Mississippi. The eastern shores of the lake, therefore, slope gradually
down to the edge of the water.   Numerous natural clearings, or
prairies, relieve the sameness of the luxuriant forests.  On  the
western side the land invades the lake in long low capes and
peninsulas.   The fragrance of the air; the exquisite verdure of
the trees; the gorgeous colors of the prairie-flowers; and the
artist-like arrangemenlts of the' oak openings," and wild meadows, are delights never to be forgotten.  The  most elaborate
and cultivated scenery in Europe falls into insignificance ill cornparison.
I was struck with astonishment that such a  garden of Edell"
should be so little known, even in the Eastern States.  That
such extraordinary advantages should be neglected! After a
careful examination of many places in the western portion of the
United States, I advisedly assert that the Lake Winnebago district
is the most desirable and the finest in the world for emigrants.
My reasons are as follow: first, the district in question has
communication with the Atlantic on each border of the State.
The Mississippi on the west; Lake Michigan on the east. There
is likewise a water passage, before described, running diagonially
across the State from Green Bay to the Mississippi. The soil is
equal to any in America, and the climate remarkably healthy.
The extent of water-power is very great; the numerous rivers
give admirable and cheap facilities for transport of goods in all
directions.  It is very rare for animal and vegetable life to floursh luxuriantly together.  In the Winnebago district of Wisconsin,
this combination of advantages is quite remarkable.  We attribute
132 
T'HE tIEIMOTE SETTLEMENTS.
the rude health of the inhabitants partly to the admirable water,
amply supplied by small borings or artesian wells. Almost every
kouse at Fond-du-lac, has its own crystal fountain spouting from
the earth. The greatest depth to procure water is ninety feet;
the least sixty-five.  These delicious fountains rush up several
feet above the surface, and are so remarkably clear, that it is
difficult to perceive whether a vessel filled with it contains
water or not. The whole limestone valley is said to be blest
with the same bounteous privilege. No wonder the inhabitants
enjoy such rude health; for, besides this great advantage, the
climate is not of that wearing and exhausting character peculiar
to most parts of the United States.   Numerous  villages are
rising up all round the lake. No doubt, ere long, they are
destined to be populous and wealthy cities.  During the present
year, a plank road will be completed from Lake Winnebago to
Kaukanau. This line will shorten the distance to navigable
water; being only nine miles.   The canal previously alluded
to, is compelled to take a circuitous route, with great natural
disadvantages.
A chair of lakes are joined to Lake Winnebago by the Fox
and Wolf rivers; all enijoying similar advantages.   The climate
is much more equable than the same latitude on the sea-board,
and is quite free from fever or ague.
This country has an extraordinary effect upon the imagination.  Nearly all the ramblers from the other States of the
Union settle in the district. This is one of the reasons of the
extraordinary progress of Wisconsin, which was first settled by
Americans, chiefly from the Northern and Eastern States, and
since largely augmented by emigrants from Europe. It was
created into a territorial government irL 1836, and admitted into
the Union in 1848. Area 53,984 square miles. Population in
1840, 30,000. In 1847, 212,000. It is now estimated at nearly half a million.
133 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
At the outlet of the Lake Winnebago is an island, containing
eight hundred acres, the favorite haunt, for ages, of the Menomenee Indians; and in truth they are capital judges of locations.
I was fortunate enough to receive an invitation to this favored
spot; and by the great kindness, and assistance of my host, the
Governor of Wisconsin, the Honorable James Duane Doty, I was
enabled, not only to enjoy the finest sport, but likewise to investigate the best means of securing " first-rate shooting" for any
adventurous English spirit that may despise the narrow, and
very expensive limits of the "sea girt isles."
Not to interfere with the continuity of my narrative, I will
commence a fresh chapter, with my adventures on leaving Milwaukie, bound on a visit to Governor Doty.
134 
SPORTING EXCURSION.
CHAPTER I.
Preparation for Shooting and Angling-Emnbark in a Lake Steamer fr
Sheboygan-A young English Emigrant-Abundance of Gamne-Form  ation of a Plank-road-Origin and Effects of this new Kind of Highway
-Travelling Disasters-Hospitality in the Wilderness-Approach to
Fond-du-lac-A rolling Prairie-Rapid Rise of the Village of Fond-du
lac-Indians driven from their Land-Abundance of Sturgeon-Town
of Oskosh-A Lake Island-Agriculture of the Wild Man-Wild Vines
and Cucumbers-Bears attracted by the Abundance of Fruit-A B3ear
B3attue-Sad Catastrophe-Interview with a Tribe of Indians-Visit to
their Encampment-Their Cookery.
HEAVILY laden with guns, ammunition, and fishing gear, I
was glad to find myself on board the steamer lying at the Milwaukie quay, and bound to Sheboygan.
In a few moments, the vessel glided out into Lake Michigan,
cutting the smooth and glass-like surface as she ran along the
densely-wooded cliffs.  After a run of six hours, we arrived at
Sheboygan, the nearest point to any practicable road to Lake
Winnebago.
After a short delay, I engaged a wagon and team, sharing
the conveyance with a young Englishman from Ringwood, in
Hampshire, who was proceeding west to try his fortune * as a
* We have since heard that he settled at Menasha, and is on tbe og.
toad to fortune. 
TUOUIt, IN AMERICA.
painter and glazier.  All the baggage,  about  seven hundred
weight, being carefully stowed away, we started at a smart pace
on a capital plank road.  In high spirits at this favorable cornmnencement, I loaded my gun, lighted a fragrant Havanna, and
kept my eyes on the alert for a shot. I was not disappointed,
as quails, pigeons, ducks, and other birds were constantly exposing themselves as we drove along.
After twelve miles of this easy work the wagon came to the
end of the plank, where a party of men were engaged with a
locomotive saw-mill; the engine sawing up the trees that were
cut ready for the men to lay as fast as the road was graded. The
usual dimensions of the plank are eight feet long, three inches
thick, and varying in breadth.
The effect of these roads on the western woods, is quite marvelous.* It is said that the first of them was made by a private
gentleman in Canada, to remedy a few rods of swampy bottom
on a road adjoining his estate, through which he had often to
travel. As this road likewise benefited travelers in general, he
nailed a box to a tree, soliciting contributions to keep the road
in repair.  The benefit of the plank road was generally acknowledged, and the box not only received voluntary contributions sufcient to repair the road, but to pay a very handsome interest.
This first gave the idea of the plank-road, which is now very generally adopted in Canada and the United States. It is allowed,
that if a planlk-road is only projected with a certainty of being
carried out, the lands adjacent rise in value one hundred per
cent; and that when completed, it is difficult to estimate the
rise in the value ctf land, it is so immense. The whole neighborhood becomes settled immediately.  The companies or individuals
who construct the roads, procure charters from the government,
and generally receive a large dividend. The tolls vary from
half a cent to two cents a mile (or from a farthing to a penny.)
See Appendix.
1 3 6?
I 
SPORTING EXCURSION.
The first plunge of the horses from the smooth plank to the
common rough road was sad indeed. A box of glass, part of our
young Englishman's venture, was shot out of the wagon, and
smashed to pieces.  All the travelers jumped out to assist ir
"the strait," and found one wheel up to the axle in a mud
hole   A violent effort of all hands extricated the wagon, and 
we attempted to proceed. But, alas! every yard was a mudhole or a stump; and in a few minutes we were all shot clean
out into the mud, and the wagon capsized.  This second disaster took a considerable time to repair, and the young Englishman
lost a large can of varnish.
When the wagon was once more loaded, we found that the
horses were unable to drag it out of the mire. As the evening
was approaching, we left the "ship fast anchored" in the mud,
and sought a shelter for the night, which was afforded us in a
frank and hospitable manner by a Vermont man. His wife
spread before us excellent tea, bread, butter, and bacon, and
made us as comfortable as possible.
The following morning at day-light we were afoot; and as we
heard thqt the road did not improve, a team of oxen was hired
to aid our progress.  With this addition to our power, we succeeded in dragging the wagon from its "mud bed," and aldvanced
about three miles. Here the heavy vehicle again sank in a mudhole, and appeared to be gradually settling down. All hands
were hastily engaged in unloading the goods, and placing tlhem
on firm ground; but every effort to drag out the wagon was tiseless, and the unfortunate machine was gradually sinking out of
sight. One of the party was now dispatched for more aid, and the
remainder made a fire and prepared to dress some game. O-ir
messelnger fortunately discovered, at no great distance, an Irisl -
man at plow with two teams of fine oxen.  A promise of liberal
payment induced him to leave his plow and come to our assistance.
The four teams, three of oxen and one of horses, were now al
137 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
ti-.Led, and with a liberal allowance of "oxen-talk" and whip,
the unfortunate wagon was drawn out of its oozy bed.
In this manner the cavalcade proceeded until once more it
gained the plank road, about four miles from Fond-du-lac.  The
unplanked part of the road was twenty-four miles, and occupied
two days in passing with six upsettings.  The planked remainder (sixteen miles) was easily passed over by a single team of
hcrses in two hours.
This will give some idea of the immense advantage of these
plank roads. In fact, the new country that is without them, has
little or no value, as the farmer can not carry his produce to market, or get his supplies.
Ten miles from Fcnd-du-lac, the dense forests begin to separate, and small prairies are visible. Gradually as the lake is
approached, the trees get still wider apart; and, at last, from a
small thicket, the beautiful rolling prairie bursts upon the view,
stretching along with a gradual descent, until it joins, in a verdant lawn, the silvery waters of Lake Winnebago. The nlumerous and variegated wild flowers, the exceeding richness of the
soil, and the appearance of a highly-cultivated landscape, produce
an extraordinary efteet on the traveler.
Fond-du-lac is a small village, with a population of about
2400. Five years ago it was a desert! I was walking in the
sty,ets of this town with one of the principal men of the State,
who led me to a particular spot, and pointed to a very slight indication ofa path.
"Listen to me,"' said he, "listen to that which will hereafter
e considered an historical marvel. Seven years ago, in an ofncial capacity, I landed from the lake, and attempted to follow
tnis indistinct path, which at that time was well beaten and
well defined-it was the great Indian trail to the Mississippi.
On this spot" (pointing to the ground whereon he stood), "I
was met by a large party of Indian warriors, headed by their
~
138 
SPORtTING EXCURSION.
chief, who addressed me as follows:'Wow- man, thou  canst
not pass; we know that a pale face, once allowed to see c:zr
country, will bring swarms after him, and drive us out.  G  peace, but do not attempt to return.'
My companion, balked for the moment, returned to his canoe,
and pretended to retire. Making a long detour, he surveyed the
country from several elevated positions, and finally succeeded in
his object. Two years after, the tide of immigration set in, and
the effects are now one of the wonders of the age.
The poor Indians, quite right in their anticipations, are long
since removed beyond the Mississ;lpi.  Numerous bands, however,
constantly return to see once more the'" loved spot." It is said
that they are so intensely attached to this district, +that the tribe
are gradually pining away.   They look upon it as a "Paradise
Lost." Truly it has every advantage to make it the wild man's
Eden.
The following morning I embarked for the other extremity cf
the lake, and, during the voyage, was astonished at the numb( r
of large fish constantly leaping out of the water. On inquiry, I
found they were sturgeon. This fish, described as being in quality infinitely superior to any that are found in other lakes, constituted the principal article of winter food for the Indians, and
were extensively used by them for purposes of traffic with distant
tribes.
Fifteen miles coasting along the western shores brought us to
Oskosh, a small town of 1600 inhabitants. Nothing can exceed
the beauty of this coast, nor the effect of the prairie openings
(gracefully timbered), as they extend in long, low points. Occasionally a small copse completely smothered with vines and
creepers, and fringed with fantastic shrubberies of sumac-gum,
gemmed the prairie.
Oskosh is built at the mouth of Fox River, which now communicates with the Wisconsin and Mississippi. A few miles above
139 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
'he lake, a branch (the'olf) rluns one hundred and fifty miles
northerly, into extensive pine lands, thus rendering Lake Winnebago the centre of a vast field of commerce.   These advantages
will, no doubt, soon render it a place of considerable importance.
Leaving Oskosh, the steamer still coasted the western shores,
which became fringed with dense woods, and arrived at the end
of the lake, where it discharges its waters by two channels into
the Fox-River.   The island, which the two outlets form, is the
beau ideal" of an Indian's habitation.  Divided from the maintand( on each side by a,hannel about one hundred and fifty yards
broad, they unite at the northern end, forming a miniature lake,
the little " Butte des Morts."  As the water has a descent of ten
feet along the shore of the islandct, it is admirably adapted for fishing.  Indeed the Indians often travel hundreds of miles to enjoy
this sport in their old and favorite horne. I never beheld such
swarms of fish in my experience; and from the numerous " rises"
after flies, I should think it must be a first-rate place for flyfishing.
The island is now named after its owner, J. D. Doty, the Governor of Wisconsin.  It was fondly called "Meniasha," literally
" The Island," par excellence, of the poor fugitive Indians.  And
truly it speaks well for the wild man's taste, as a more beautiful
location would be impossible to find.
In his own untutored way, the wild man has been for thousands
of years, trying to decorate this favorite place. Numerous wild
firuits of every description abound on the diminutive prairies and
oak openings; and although neglect has fallen on this island
since the departure of the Indians, which has not yet been rectified by civilization, the quantity of wild fruit in the autumn is
predigious.
The  lake shore, looking south, is fringed occasionally with
trees, both large and small, some of the latter of which  are
smothered with wild vines, loaded with fruit. The grapes, of
140 
SPORTING EXCURSION.
course, for want of cultivation, are rather sour.  Wild cucumbers
vie with the vines in excluding the sun's rays from the unfortu tiate trees, and frequently stifle them with parasitical embraces.
In some instances, an ambitious vine has exclusively devoted
itself and succeeded in entwininig the trunk, with its huge folds,
to the height of forty or fifty feet; then thrusting out its arms,
unfolds its flaunterg foliage amidst the leafy garments of its sup porter, and strives to gain the greatest share of heat and light:
its purple bunches aloft give a singular tropical appearance to
the scene.  I found the stem of one of these vines as large as a.
stout man's thigh; no doubt many are larger.
This abundance of fruit attracts the wild animals, far and
near. The bears regard it as a pet place, and the alarm was
constantly sounded that a huge Bruin was swimming from the
main land. If he was perceived in time, men were posted behind a sumac-bush, affording a convenient ambush at the point
for which he steered. Many bears were shot in this manner, but
some passed over in the night, and played sad havoc in the hogsties and gardens. A small and jungly swamp, in the middle
of the island, afforded a secure asylum, out of which it would be
extremely difficult to dislodge these brutes.
I attended one of these bear battues, but was significantly
warned, by the frequent unpleasant proximity of the whistle of
a rifle ball, that juvenile Yankees with rifles, in a cover, are
more dangerous neighbors than one cares to be vr;th.  Thinking
prudence the better part of valor, I shouldered  )/  rifle, and
marched home, albeit rather lingeringly, being excited by the
loud and exhilarating shouts and repeated crack of rifles. Perhaps this was fortunate for me, for a sad catastrophe finished
the battue.  A  young man shot his own brother through the
heart, mistaking him, as he stooped in the brushwood, for a
bear.
Returning by a bridge that spans the eastern river, I per
141 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
ceived a "withered atomy" crouching on her hams, angling.
She was an old Indian crone, just arrived with her tribe from a
journey of several hundred miles, to revi;sit once more the loved
scenes of their youth.
Grounding my rifle, and lighting a cigar, I stood quite still,
watching the old woman. She did not pay the slightest regard
to me, but tended her line with eager expectation. I did not
know which to admire most-her wonderful skill, or the profusion of strange (to me) and beautiful fish that, hooked by her,
were speedily flapping at our feet; large fish and small fish,
white fish and dark fish; all of which were quite novel to me,
in fresh water, at all events.
In the height of her success, I perceived the approach of a
small cavalcade. It consisted of a tall, handsome, mounted Indian, followed by his squaw, likewise mounted, with her child at
her back, and another, of seven years old, also on horseback. In
rear of the three Indian ponies and their riders, some ugly curs,
of decidedly "hang-dog" expression, advanced in sullen silence;
looking neither right nor left, nor taking the slightest notice of
any one. This piqued my curiosity.
After the wild procession had passed to some distance, I shouted, as a signal to stop, and hastened forward to address them.
Signs and gestures were, however, the only means of communication; and I and my savage friends walked on together in
silence. As I wished to conciliate the Indian, and examine his
wigwam, I thought it might be politic to attack him through
the organ of philoprogenitiveness. Accordingly, I pulled a silk
handkerchief from my neck, walked close up to the squaw's
pony, and tied it round the child's throat.  This did not alter
the demeanor of the Indians in the slightest perceptible degree;
but I determined to accompany them, and examine their domes
tic arrangements.
The dingy little "red-skin" was extremely delighted; it eyed
142 
SPORTING EXCURSION.
the colored silk with the greatest eagerness, and thrust the end
in its mother's face, who, although she must have felt the great est joy iin possessing so choice a piece of finery, was true to her
Indian nature, and did not exhibit the slightest emotion.
Feeling by this time, secure of a favorable reception at the.i
encampment, I determined to partake of their hospitality, should
it be proffered.  We soon arrived at the lodges, numbering three,
and composed of long sticks, entwined, and covc,rd with skins,
&c. A fire was soon made, gipsy fashion, and t large pot sus
pended over the embers.
On the arrival of the old crone from her fishing, the bunch ot
fish was carelessly pitched into the dirt, and the cookery commenced. At this monment, another Indian came in with a stoc&
of squirrels, larger and fatter than I ever beheld; black, gray,
mouse-colored, red, and though last, not least, a fine specimen
of the flying squirrel, were among the store. I seized hold of
this last, and examined it with great interest; while the cook
was busily employed in skinning his brethren, and popping them
into the pot. At length she looked for the one I was examining.
I held it out to her by the tail, suspended over the cooking mess;
when, with a dextrous movement of her knife, she severed the
body, which fell plump into the seething caldron.
I now began to doubt the prudence of dining with such companions, although the mess smelt very invitingly. My doubts
were speedily changed to certainty, by seeing fish, scales, entrails,
and all thrown into the caldron, and to cap the climax, some
rats were pulled from a heap of rubbish, and actually added to
the stew. My stomach began to mutiny, and I was peremptorily compelled to run off.
But let me not be partial in my animadversions on the Indian
cuisine.  Truth compels me to declare, that the cookery of many
white people among the western folks is quite as crude, thoughl
much cleaner. Their waste and extravagance is painful to be
14;', 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
hold. I am inclined to believe that no civilized people in the
world are so utterly careless in their preparation of food as the
new settlers in the Far West. Their method of treating the
grouse is worth relating, as a notable instance of the perversion
of delicate edibles. The housewife, on receiving the birds, throws
themn (whole) into water, and lets them soak till wanted; sometimes thirty-six hours. They are then cut apart, as if to stew,
or curry, and put in a saucepan to boil.   Tle meat is sodden,
and utterly spoied, and the "gude-wife" is indignant if the dish
is not relished.
141 
CHAPTER II.
Fine Ground for Deer-shooting  and other  Sport-Preparation  for an
Orchard-Nature of the Soil-Turtle's Eggs-Grove of Sugar-maples  Earth-mounds in the Shape of Animals-Evidences of a civilized but ex tinct Race-Remarks in Corroboration of this Theory-Curious Conver  sation with a Scottish Emigrant-The Advantages of settling in Wis  consin-A six Weeks' Exploration-A vast Prairie covered by a Mist
-Singular Mode of steering across it by the aid of Resin-grass.
THE eastern shore of this lake is, perhaps, the finest ground
for deer-shooting in the States. It is covered with a heavy
growth of the finest and largest trees we have seen in North
America. These woods are intersected at all points with deer
paths, most of which terminate on the shores of the lake. By
placing a boat, or boats, at certain points, and putting two or
three stanch, but slow hounds in the woods, any number of deer
may be driven into the lake.  This method of shooting is of
course used only in the summer. The small creeks, and sloughs,
are absolutely swarming with wild fowl in the' autumn, when
they congregate in vast quantities, preparing to migrate south in
the beginning of winter. Here they get fat upon the wild rice,
and are delicious eating. Woodcocks breed in this part of Wisconsin, and are to be found in vast numbers. In a small garden,
attached to the Governor's house, of not more than one acre, it
was usual to kill three couple of woodcocks every morning before
breakfast. But the chief glory, in a sporting sense, I conceive
to be the grouse-shooting. The vast prairies on the west side of
the lake, must be swarming with these great fat fellows. I say
G 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
"must be," as I had not the means to decide positively.  I went
frequently with one slow and pottering but very good pointer,
and generally took a straight course to some spot which captivated my fancy. I never failed killing as many as I required oni
whatever course I chose.
With proper dogs, the sport on the western prairies would
greatly surpass any afforded on the best moors -in Scotland. The
few settlers who  have recently taken up land on these wild
meadows, complain much of the increase of grouse. It is indeed
a singular fact, that game increases rapidly with the first settlement of a new country. When, however, the population arrives
at a certain point, the game as rapidly decreases, and often in
America disappears altogether.
During a stroll on the south side of Doty Island, I was much
interested in watching the proceedings of a number of Irishmen,
who were busily engaged in digging up for an orchard some
virgin ground scantily covered with prairie grass, of which the
roots hardly penetrated a quarter of an inch. The soil, when
turned, was black and unctuous, and looked almost like chocolate. These clods are extremely friable after a few days' exposure
to the air; and, although the first plowing takes from three to
six teams of oxen, it can easily be worked afterward by one
team.
While examining this grain-teeming earth, I perceived several
curiously shaped eggs turned up with the spade. On inquiry, I
was informed by the Irish diggers that they were snakes' eggs.
Not readily believing this statement, I broke one, and to my
infinite astonishment, found a fully developed little turtle, or
terrapin, which fell struggling to the earth, and immediately
made an effort to walk down to the lake. This was a novel
discovery, and I had much difficulty to persuade the inhabitants
of the fact, until the little animal was produced from my pocket.
Still continuing my stroll, I entered a magnificent grove of
146 
SPORTING EXCURSION.
sugar-maples without any underwood.  On  admiring the size
and growth of these venerable trees, my companion called my
attention to some earth-mounds in the shape of prostrate animals
such as beavers, bears, deer, squirrels, &e. These were of
gigantic proportions, very distinctly marked and discriminated,
evidently the work of some ancient and unknown race. Much
speculation has been already induced by the discovery of singular
architectural and sculptured remains in Central America, which
can not possibly be ascribed to the red Indians.   May not the
evidences I have just mentioned offer an additional testimony to
the existence of a race of inhabitants, possessing some civilization,
which has now entirely passed away? Over a vast amount of
ground, including these figures of animals, and covered by dense
forests, the remains of ancient Indian corn-hills may be traced,
clearly indicating that two distinct races have been masters of
the land before the maple trees above alluded to had rooted
themselves.
The following remarks (from the cc Ancient Monuments of the
Mississippi Valley") thoroughly corroborate our assertions on this
singular subject.
"The strongest and most indisputable evidence in favor of the
antiquity of these works of man is, however, afforded by the
monuments which nature has raised on their ruins. In numerous cases, where the forest-trees, which now cover the majority
of these mounds and embankments, have been examined, annual
rings, denoting a growth of from six hundred to eight hundred
years, have been counted on their trunks.   But even these
eight hundred years do not bring us near to the date of the
erection of these works; for it has been observed by those who
have given attention to these matters, that a homogeneity of
character is peculiar to the first growth of trees on lands once,
cleared and then abandoned to nature, whereas the sites of the
ancient works which we have been describing present the same
147 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
appearance as the circumnjacent forests, being covered with the
same beautiful varieties of trees.
"In a discourse on the aborigines of Ohio, the late President
Harrison of the United States, after having stated, that upon the
first clearing of the forest certain trees of strong and rapid
growth spring up in such profusion as entirely to smother the
others of more weakly nature which attempt to grow in their
shade, expresses himself as follows: This state of things will not,
however, always continue; the preference of the soil for its first
growth ceases with its maturity; it admits of no succession on
the principle of legitimacy: the long undisputed masters of the
forest may be thinned by the lightning, tempests, or by diseases
peculiar to themselves; and whenever this is the case, one of the
oft-rejected of another family will find between its decaying roots
shelter and appropriate food; and, springing into vigorous growth
will soon push its green foliage to the sky, through the withered
limbs of its blasted and dying adversary; the soil itself yielding a
more liberal support than any scion from the former occupants.
It will easily be conceived what a length of time. will be required for a denuded tract of land, by a process so slow, again to
clothe itself with the amazing variety of foliage which is the
characteristic of the forests of these regions. Of what immense
age, then, must be these works, so often recurred to, covered
with the second growth after the ancient forest state had been
regained!
"In the north and northwestern part of the territory over
which these ancient remains spread, in Wisconsin, and also
Mlichigan, Iowa, &c., the earth-works assume a character so
different from any we have as yet surveyed, as almost to induce
a belief that they must be the productions of a distinct race.
"The animal-shaped mounds are situated upon undulating
prairies and level plains; and although of inconsiderable height,
averaging four feet, are distinctly visible, and the imagination
148 
SPORTING EXCURSION.
is not taxed to trace in them the resemblance of bears, alligators,
foxes, pigs, men, monkeys, and birds. They principally occur in
the vicinity of large water-courses, and are always placed above
the reach of the annual inundations."
One of these embossed figures in Wisconsin is described as
follows:
"It represents a human figure having two heads, which gracefully recline over the shoulders. It is well preserved. The arms
are disproportionately long.  The various portions of the figure
are gracefully rounded; the stomach and breasts are full, and
well proportioned. Its dimensions are, from one armpit over the
breast to the other, 25 feet; across the arms at the shoulders,
12 feet, and tapering to 4 feet at the extremities.  Over the
hips, the breadth is 20 feet; and over the legs, near the body,
8.  The figure above the shoulders measures in width, 15 feet;
each neck 8, and the circumference of both, 10. Length of body,
50 feet.  Some of these mounds have been excavated, and found
to contain human remains."
While on this spot, I was much amused at falling in with an
old acquaintance, in the shape of an under-keeper from one of
the Scottish moors. He had emigrated two years, and had
become owner of a small farm. His remarks were shrewd and
entertaining.
" Ah, Sir," said he, "if the quality in England only knew
there was a place like this, do you think they would go and pay
such extravagant rents for the mere shooting in Scotland?  No,
Sir, not they.  My old master paid ~500 a year for his moor
adjacent to Loch Ness."
"And pray what did he get for it?"
"Why not half such sport as he can get here," replied he.
"Truly," I rejoined; "but remember the distance, and expense of coming here."
"As for the distance," responded he, "you can, at present, be
149 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
here from London in fourteen days. In two years the rail will
be finished to Fond-du-lac, and you will be enabled to get here
in eleven days. The expense, as I will prove, will not only be
far less, but it may be turned into a positive gain."
I pricked up my ears at this assertion, and requested my old
acquaintance, the ex-keeper, to proceed.
"Well, Sir, look'ee here: suppose a party of five gentlemen
subscribe ~500  apiece, that will be  ~2500.   With ~1500
they can purchase a quantity of land, and build an excellent
house, stable, and offices, on Doty Island, in a position which,
in ten years' time, will increase greatly in value as an eligible
site for building allotments. The very flact of such an establishment by wealthy English gentlemen will cause the land to rise
in value enormously; and I will warrant that in five years it
will be worth ten times the present cost."
"Suppose such to be the case," I observed, "and from my
knowledge of the wonderful progress of this country, I think it
very probable, where are the gentlemen to shoot?"
"I'm coming to that, Sir," said the ex-keeper.   " From their
location on Doty Island, they would have the finest fresh-water
fishing in the world. They would have thirty miles lake-shore
for deer-shooting; and dense woods, forty miles back to Lake
Michigan, where bears and catamounts, and other wild animals,
are plentiful. Abundance of wild fowl, quail, and woodcocks
would be found every where."
Stop," exclaimed I, interrupting him;  " what are we to do
about the main point-the grouse-shooting? besides, remember
there is another ~1000 to account for."
" Don't interrupt, please, Sir; I am coming to that. I know
several districts of country in this neighborhood with natural
boundaries; such as creeks, rivers, thick belts of trees, &c.
These districts vary from five thousand to twenty thousand acres,
and are so fertile, the Europeans can not even imagine such rich
150 
SPORTING EXCURSION.
ness. Well, Sir, the farmers, who are thinly scattered about, are
very poor. A little money on mortgage of their land would enable
them to get more than double its value; but I propose that you
take ~500, equal to 2500 dollars, and lend it them in small
sums, say 100 dollars each on mortgage, at the rate of 12 per
cent. per annum."
"Why, you are a regular Jew," exclaimed I. " Twelve per
cent. is horrible usury."
"Usury or not," returned he, "many of these poor men pay
from 2 to 8 per cent. per month. With a hundred dollars at
the moderate interest of 12 per cent. per annum, they could
relieve themselves from the burden of excessive interest, and
preserve the game on their own and neighboring lands. You
would, by thus accommodating the farmers, have better stocked
preserves, and more friendly occupiers of the soil, than can
elsewhere be found. The remaining ~500 you might keep to
improve your lands; or invest at 12 per cent, as the other half.
If thus invested, you would get 12 per cent on ~1000, nearly
equal to 5 per cent upon the whole sum laid out, and the land
increasing in value in a prodigious ratio."
"Wonderful!" thought I, with enthusiasm.  "I will pop you
in print, my lad. You ought to have been a financier. Let us
see what the' Ouality,' as you call them, will say to this."
"Don't forget," continued he, "to report that a single individual can do as well. I have put my finger in a similar pie
with great success."
I was wonderfully struck with the man's ability at figures, and
ventured to ask him for an outline of his life.
"I was born," said he, " and bred to agriculture in Caithness:
and at the age of twenty-two, became grieve or bailiff to Mr.
A little love affair drove me off South, where I first met you, with
the Quality party from Dochfour.  I was then an extra gamekeeper at      House, in the expectation that Prince Albert, after
151 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
his visit to Dochfour, of Dochfour, would honor my master's moor
by shooting over it.  As this expectation was not gratified, I was
discharged, with only ten pounds in my pocket. I then remembered the conversation I had with you the half hour we took
shelter from the rain together; and particularly one observation:
Intelligence like yours,' you said,' has much better chances West,
over the Atlantic, than here.' Thank Heaven, Sir, I took your
advice. I am now an independent man."
"Well, my friend," I said, "you are not the only acquaintance
I have. met with on this continent, and I must say they generally
appear to succeed; but what are your future intentions?"
"My great object in life is to get my friends and relations out
here; but they are careful, suspicious people, and I have nriot the
faculty of putting things down in writing. Will you, Sir, do me
one more favor, and add to your publication the offer I have had
from Governor Doty?  It will explain exactly to my friends what
I can not do, and be of great interest to a large class of small
capitalists in England, who would jump at such a chance, if they
were only aware of it."
"Show me the offer you mention," said I; "and if I can do it
conscientiously I will, and give it publicity."
On perusing the manuscript alluded to, I came to the conclusion that it might be of inestimable service to persons desirous of
emigrating. The advantages are so obvious to all, that I merely
give the offer of ex-Governor Doty, and present member of Congress.
COPY OF MEMORANDUM, BY J. D. DOTY, MENASHA.
"I have some land, the soil of which is composed of a rich
black loam.  It is situated on the banks of the river Nenah, close
to the outlet of WVinnabago Lake, where steamboats pass daily.
Two villages are within a mile:  Nenah on the one hand, and
Menasha on the other.  A good market is at hand for agricultural produce, particularly culinary vegetables; also pigs and
152 
SPORTING EXCURSION.
poultry. The soil is a rich limestone, capable of producing any
crops in great perfection.  It is part of an island of 850 acres.
Several flour-mills and saw-mills, beside other kinds of machinery
moved by water, are in the vicinity.
"Schools, and well-established religious societies, are in each
of the villages. The country is settling rapidly, and respectable
fernale'helps' are in great demand.   I am now erecting several
houses, with parlor, kitchen, and bed-room below, and two chambers above, with a brick chimney and oven in the kitchen. Each
of these houses will be surrounded by a secure fence to inclose
five acres of cleared land.
"I will let these lots to tenants, whose characters are satisfactory, for one or five years as they prefer, taking as rent one half
the produce of the land. I will likewise give the accepted tenant
a range for a cow and a pig on the adjoining land, and as much
wood as be can use for fuel."
For six weeks I amused myself exploring in all directions; and
the more I roamed through this beautiful country, the more I was
delighted with it.  Sometimes I climbed the range of limestone
hills, and traversed deserted Indian clearings; at others I rambled
through boundless flowery meadows and oak openings.
On one of these rambles I found myself in a vast prairie, several
miles in extent.  I was thinking of the difficulty of "steering"
over this interminable plain, in a dark night or foggy day. My
thoughts were prophetic, as a thick mist, a very unusual occurrence, crept instantly over the scene, shrouding the undulating
landscape in all impenetrable and hoary mantle.
"How am  I to get home?" was the question I put to my
companion.
"That is an easy matter," replied he.  "There is plenty of
rosin-grass here."
Looking intently on the pasturage at his feet, he led me steadily in the proper direction. As I thought that this was a mere
158
C, * 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
"Yankee trick," no notice was directed to the grass, and I followed him in silence. When too late to examine this curious
matter, I found that he had spoken the truth, and that the rosingrass, or weed, had peculiar leaves which always grew in the
same direction, namely, north and south. This simple fact makes
the prairies as easy to travel over as the best marked-plains.
154 
CHAPTER III.
Endless Variety of Scenery-Beautiful Vegetation and abundant Wild  fowl-A huge Muscalonge-Difficult Capture of one of them-Profitable
Investment in Land-Captain Marryat's Remarks-Extraordinary En  ergy of the Western Men-Magnanimous Offer by one of them to put an
End to our War with the Kaffirs-The British Musket and the Yankee
Rifle-Sharp-shooting from the Tops-A new Town-How to build a
Road-Plank Roads in the United States.
THE endless variety of scenery in this district is quite beyond
description. Sometimes a stately avenue of burr-oaks half encircled an eminence covered with small, but dense copses. Suddenly the avenue would cease on a plateau, the very site for a
castle, or magnificent mansion. Let us wend our way across
this plateau; the grouse rising right and left, disturbing the
silence with the loud whirring of numerous wings: we will, byand-by, examine the view, now momentarily concealed from our
sight by the ground in advance. At length, the prospect is
unvailed; Heavens! how beautiful. A winding, silvery lake
is before us, studded with islands.   All the ornament that
money or art could furnish, would not improve the beauty one
jot.'
On approaching the margin of the lake, the effect was absolutely enchanting. Wild flowers and climbers in some places
struggled to conceal the dense foliage on the banks. In others,
the ripple of water on the smooth beach joined with a gentle kiss
the rich and unctuous black prairie soil. Strange and ornamental
0 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
wild fowl here dressed their plumage in security. The fierce
and fiend-eyed fish, the Muscalonge, glided steadily and closely
past. Every movement of his huge and savage shape was
strangely distinct in the crystal water.
A few days after this adventure, a birch-bark canoe was
launched, and the surface of this sylvan retreat was disturbed,
perhaps for the first time, by man. By the kind forethought of
my enthusiastic angling friend, George Trott, Esq., of Philadelphia, who had furnished me with the new-improved AngloYankee spoon-bait, I was well prepared for a "raid"  against
the Muscalonge. With a stout cod-line two hundred feet long,
to which this admirable bait was attached, we paddled into the
lake. In a moment, the "glittering deceit" was caught in the
jaws of a monster, who would have made old Izaak Walton
open his eyes in rapture, and the canoe was nearly upset with
the violent jerk. Careful management was necessary until the
first furious efforts of the fish were over. The canoe was then
paddled to the bank, and the line taken on terra firma.  Considerable care was still needful to secure our prey; and it was
nearly half an hour before the huge Muscalonge was high and
dry. No means were at hand to ascertain his weight, but he
was pronounced by competent judges to be nearly one hundredweight. Several more were taken, and the sport was voted to
be prodigious.
One of the party, in a furor of excitement and admiration,
started off next morning, to purchase the lake and land adjoining. I afterward heard that he had bought two quarter sections
(three hundred and twenty acres) for six hundred and forty
dollars, about ~130. There are thousands of similar situations.
The next visit I pay there I expect to see a small town; so
rapid is the growth of a new country'possessing such wonderful
advantages.
This eulogy, I feel, must appear exaggerated. Fortunately,
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SPORTING EXCURSION.
Captain Marryat went over nearly the same ground, and speaks
as follows: *
"I consider the Wisconsin Territory as the finest portion of
North America, not only from its soil, but its climate. The air
is pure, and the winters, although severe, are dry and bracing;
very different from, and more healing than those of the Eastern
States. The country is, as I have described it in my route from
Green Bay, alternate prairie, oak opening, and forest; and the
same may be said of the major part of the Territory. Limestone
quarries abound; indeed, the whole of this beautiful and fertile
region appears as if nature had so arranged it that man should
have all difficulties cleared from before him, and have little to
do but to take possession, and enjoy. There is no clearing of
timber requisite; on the contrary, you have just as much as you
can desire, whether for use or ornament. Prairies of fine rich
grass, upon which cattle fatten in three or four months, lie
spread in every direction. The soil is so fertile that you have
but to turn it up to make it yield grain to any extent; and the
climate is healthy, at the same time that there is more than
sufficient sun in the summer and autumn to bring every crop to
perfection Add to all this, that the western lands possess an
inexhaustible supply of minerals, only a few feet under the surface of their rich soil-a singular and wonderful provision, as, in
general, where minerals are found below, the soil above is usually
arid and ungrateful;"
The extraordinary energy of the Western men is the true
secret of success.
These'cute Yankees have seen strange adventures; they have
not thrown away the advantages thus acquired, and are full of
anecdote and information. I had several curious conversations
with some of them, as the following anecdote will fully prove.
* Marryat, vol. ii. p. 72.
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TOUR IN AMERICA.
I may here observe that I speedily became known to all the
neighbors for miles.
I was once strolling on the beautiful prairies, and perceived in
lily path, a little in advance, a tall, gaunt Yankee. He stood
erect, leaning on his rifle, watching my approach. As I never
met any thing but the utmost civility and attention on my rambles, I went up to him with my usual confidence. On approaching, he addressed me as follows:
"Well, Captin.   How are you?"
" Very well," replied I, " how does the world wag with you?"
"I have a duty to perform, Captin," he replied.
"Fire away, and do your duty," rejoined I, wondering what
duty my stalwart Yankee friend had to perform.
"Well, Captin," he continued, "you are not at all starched
up, as I thought all Britishers were. You wear tow breeches,
and don't think more of yourself than any of us. Moreover, I
see you carry a large jar the other day, and I know you have
lots of dollars. Well, then, it is my duty to ask you to take a
drink."
"With all my heart," returned I; and we repaired to my
friend's log-house.
After a social glass and sundry shaking of hands, my Yankee
friend told me his history.
"I fit in Mexico," said he.   "I likewise fit the Injuns in
Californy, and have had a good deal of experience in savage
warfare. My name is Captin Ezekiah Conclin Brum, and I
think you are the best Yankee Britisher I ever seed. Now,
then, Captin, I have a proposal to make to the British Government; but before I tell it you, I'll explain what made me jfst
think of it. When I returned from fitting the Injuns in Californy, I read in the papers the accounts of your fitting the Injuns at the Cape of Good Hope. Well, I wanted to find out all
about it, so I sent to England, by a relation of mine who is
158 
SPORTING EXCURSION.
mate of a liner, for a British infantry musket, with all the fixins.
About six weeks ago it arrived here, and here it is, Captin"
(going to a corner and bringing out a regulation musket).  "Well,
Captin, did ever you see such a clumsy varment in all your
born days? Now, Captin, look out of the doorway. Do you see
that blazed stump? It is seven feet high, and broader than
any man. It's exactly one hundred and fifty yards from my
door I have fired that clumsy varment at the stump till my
head ached, and my shoulder was quite sore, and have hardly
hit it once. Now, then, Captin, look'ee here" (taking up his
seven-barreled, revolving rifle, and letting fly one barrel after
the other).  "I guess you will find seven bullets in the blazed
stump. I will, however, stick seven playing cards on the stump,
in different places, and if you choose will hit them all."
"You are very skillful," I exclaimed. 
"There are plenty more quite as skillful as me," he responded; "but, Captin, let me ask you, would you fit me with that
machine, bagnet and all, against my rifle at one hundred and
fifty yards?"
"No, thank you," I hastily answered, "I had rather not."
"Would you like to be one of two, or three, or even six, with
bagnet fixed and all?" urged he.
"No," I replied, "certainly not.  You would have the best
chance by far."
"Now then comes my offer to the British Government.  Will
you make it to them from me?"
"No," replied I.  "If I made the finest offer in the world to
the British Government, the chances are, they would not read
it. If they did, they would only sneer at me, and call me officious and impertinent, and very likely put a black mark against
my name. I can not, therefore, present your offer; but I will
put it in print, if you like, and the public can judge of its
merits."
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TOUR IN AMERICA.
"That's the very thing, Captin," returned he in an animated
voice; "and that will stir up public opinion-at least it would
in the States, where, when once a thing is made plain, it is
adopted, never mind who the recommender might be.
"My offer to the British Government is as follows: I, Ezekiah Conclin Brum, have learned by the papers, that the last
war at the Cape of Good Hope cost ten million dollars (two
millions sterling) to the British Government; and that it is
likely the present war will cost quite as much, and be a protracted affair. I, Ezekiah Conclin Brum, have a high opinion
of the bravery of the British soldiers, but a very contemptuous
opinion of their arms.  I, Ezekiah Conclin Brum, will undertake to enlist five thousand Yankee marksmen, each armed with
a seven-barreled revolving rifle, or any better weapon that may
tur.a up, and kill, or disperse all the Injuns on the British territory at the Cape of Good Hope, within six months of our landing there; conditionally, that the survivors are paid the sum
of five million dollars, on the extirpation of the Injuns, and settlement of peace; thus saving half the expense, and great numbers of British soldiers. In course, the British Government must
send us over in their brass-bottomed sarpents. This will be easy,
as we can stow very close, having little or no baggage."
"You think your five thousand' marksmen' could do it in
six months," said I.
"Sartain," he replied; "we should be ekal to thirty thousand
troops with such tarnal, stiff, clumsy consarns, as them reg'lation
muskets is. We should do it slick, right away."
"Suppose you were successful," I rejoined, "what would you
and your Yankee marksmen do afterward?"
Do afterward," echoed he:'; why, many would settle in the
country, and show them how to go ahead."
"And," added I, "turn it into a republic before long."
"In course," that is sure to follow afore long, whether we go
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SPORTING EXCURSION.
or stay. But I tell'ee what it is, Captin; this here gold in
Australy will bring on a republic there while you Britishers are
dreaming about it."
"Good-by, Captain Ezekiah Conclin Brum," I exclaimed, as
I shook hands heartily at parting.  "I will print your proposal.
It will have the advantage of novelty, at any rate."
"Good-by, Captin. Wont you take a chaw? But mind you
write, and tell me all about it."
And thus we parted
This proposal of our Yankee friend gives rise to grave reflections, not only as to land fighting, but naval engagements.
In England we rely too much on precedent, and antiquated
maxims. As an example of this reverence for whatever is established, we will take an axiom of one of the most celebrated men
of any age-an axiom which invention and science have superseded.  We allude to the opinion of the great Nelson, that small
arms in tops, though fatal to a few men, never decided an
action. To this mistaken, though humane notion, he owed his
death; for after he had twice ordered the fire on the" Redoubtable" to cease, because she seemed to have struck, a ball fired
from the mizen-top killed him.
Now  let us ask, What would have been the state of the
"Victory's" upper deck, five minutes after she was alongside
the "Redoubtable," if the tops of the latter had been manned by
good marksmen, armed with such seven-barreled revolvers as
excited the enthusiasm of our friend Ezekiah? The result would
have been, that every man on the "Victory's" upper deck would
have been killed in a few minutes. This fatal result may be
confidently anticipated in any future war with America or France.
In America especially they are preparing rifles that will discharge
twenty-four times without loading; the only preparation required,
being the usual one of cocking.
The following calculation we will base on the seven-barreled
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TOUR IN AMERICA.
revolver, leaving the reader to calculate the effects of the new
Yankee rifle, which discharges twenty-four shot without loading.
Let us then suppose the"  Victory" closing with the " Redoubtable," whose tops should be armed as follows: "Victory," as is
the custom at present, nil; or at best short ships' muskets.
"Redoubtable," ten men in each top, armed with the seven-barreled revolver.
These ten men can fairly be estimated to disable in one minute
and a half seven men on the opponent's deck. Thus, seventy
men will probably be hors de combat from the fire of each top;
or the frightful loss, in this brief space, of two hundred and ten
men from the three tops combined.
This would amount to the destruction of the whole  crew
stationed on the upper deck.
If any fighting ever does occur between English and American, or French ships, these new and wonderful rifles will be disastrously tested.
We pity the unprepared, as the chances are that they must be
vanquished.
There can be no doubt, that although we are equal to the
best in artillery and gunnery, we are far behind most nations in
small arms.
During my various ramblings I had the good fortune to secure
the confidence of several most able and energetic men-an advantage which enabled me to peep behind the scenes in many
of the Western movements. The following incident came under
my own knowledge.
Not one hundred miles from Green Bay, in an admirable situation, a small village suddenly peered out from the woods. The
site was chosen by one of those extraordinary men (educated
pioneers), who had silently selected a position, and established
himself as proprietor, before any persons, even his most inti
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SPORTING EXCURSION.
mate friends. were aware of his object. As soon as this became
known, the working pioneers of the West, well aware of the
talent, perseverance, and sagacity of their leader, began to
drop in likewise. In a few months, a town was laid out, and
people began to flock in. When the place was a year old it was
perceived that a road was absolutely necessary; and immediate
steps were taken to obtain a charter from the Government.
This being soon effected, a public meeting was called of all persons who might be interested in the said road, to which I will
give the fictitious name of the Nesacoochera and Chittenango
Plank Road Company, with branches from Gubbinsville to Hogskinsville, by Smithsville and Thomsonvi]le. The main branch
was ten miles long.
About one hundred persons attended, and the terms of the
charter were read to them. It specified that at least five hundred shares should be subscribed for, and one dollar each paid up,
before the charter became a valid instrument. The whole capital
required was ~10,000.
This appeared to be a complete "stopper over all," as probably that sum, in cash, could not be mustered within a hundred
miles.
After a considerable pause, one citizen got up, and spoke as
follows:
"I guess money arn't to be stumpt up here. I'll write to
mother, who owns a fine location in the Genesee valley, and
get the five hundred dollars. My note will do for the cash."
This knotty point being decided, the chairman next asked the
meeting who would take stock, and supply the sinews of war.
A dead silence ensued. There was not ten dollars (cash) in the
township. At length, up got a citizen from Gubbinsville, and
expatiated on the absolute necessity of an immediate formation
of the road.
"I have not," said he," any cash at my command;  but I have
163 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
credit with a provision merchant down East.  I will supply the
workmen with pork, molasses, tea, and sugar, out of my fri'end's
store."
This speech was received with immense applause; and it was
followed by others, who pledged their credit for shoes, soap, clothing, &c.
The greatest number of the assembly, who were hard-working
landowners, undertook to go to work immediately; taking for
part payment the necessaries of life, and receiving road-stock for
the balance. These energetic fellows immediately began to labor
at this great work, which would eventually cost fifty thousand
dollars, without a cent of capital. The most extraordinary thing
was, the unfailing confidence felt by every one that something
would turn up to procure the wherewithal; more extraordinary
still was the complete success of the project. The road has not
only quadrupled the value of property all around but it bids fair
to pay a dividend, in five years, of fifty per cent.
If a steamboat is wanted, it is acquired in the same way. I
have known large vessels completely built and equipped, without
the owners possessing one farthing, and which have not only
paid for themselves, but have made handsome fortunes for the
lucky and enterprising projectors.
What country can attempt to cope with such energy and enterprise as this? It is frequently a subject of remark, that mnen born
in England, and educated in the States, are among the foremost
in these enterprising projects.
The reader, who is unacquainted with plank roads, and their
wonderful utility in the Far West, may well be astonished at the
high rate of interest mentioned above. It must, however, be remembered that the tolls in America are.very high (charged both
ways)-from one to two cents a mile for a single team; and that
the wood (the main point) costs ten times less than in England.
The plank roads, throughout the States, vary in price from
164 
SPORTING EXCURSION.
~300 to ~800 a mile, and do not require any repair for three
years.   The sooner, therefore, that these roads are worn out by
traffic, the greater profit will be realized by the proprietor. We
consider them one of the safest and most profitable investments
in the United States. 
165 
CHAPTER IV.
TRAWLING.
Fish Markets in America- Their Inferiority to those in Europe-Cause of
this-Abundance in America of the best Kinds of Fish not available for
want of proper Means to secure them-The Trawl-net-Yankee Ridicule
of this Expedient-Experiment-Its Effects-Prejudice-Queer Expres  sion of the Newport (United States) Fishermen-Great Expediency of
the Trawl-net in America.
THE fish-markets in America are not at all in keeping with
the size and wealth of the cities. This probably arises from the
scanty variety of fish caught, compared to any large city markets
in Europe. And yet a greater quantity and more variety of fish
may be found on the shores of the United States than in any other
country I have ever visited. The reason America is not as plentifully supplied as any other part of the world, is simply because
the people do not use the means. In the first place, the trawlnet is unknown in the New World. This is glaringly visible to
a European on first visiting their markets, where may be seen
every variety of what in England and France are termed coarse
fish-in contradistinction to the finer kinds of white fish caught
in the trawl. For example, the "bass," though considered an
inferior fish in England, is highly esteemed in the States. Many
others, which are disdained in Europe, are very differently estimated across the Atlantic. This "standard of taste" may originate in the want of knowledge of the better kinds, generally, if not
invariably, caught by the "trawl." 
TRAWLING.
One of my visits after arriving in New York, was to the Fulton.
Washington, and other fish-markets. I must confess I was sadly
disappointed at the markets and the supply. On carefully examining the small fry, caught by seines on the beach, I was
astonished to perceive the young of all the esteemed fish of Europe,
such as turbot, sole, brill, plaice, &c. On mentioning the circumstance to the market-men, they doubted the correctness of my
assertion; but, after pointing out the characteristics in shape,
color, fins, mouth, &c., they speedily acknowledged that I was
right.
I do not mean to assert that these fish were precisely similar
to their namesakes in Europe. Not so; some slight modifications
in color and shape were perceptible; but to all intents and purposes they were of the same genus. The only strange flat-fish,
which seemed to puzzle the market-men, was termed a fluke.
Upon a careful examination, I found this to be a species of common English sole. After repeated observation, and careful inquiry,
I came to the conclusion that the shores of the United States were
swarming with fine and delicate flat fish; but, as by some extraordinary oversight for such keen and clever people, they did not
use the trawl, they could not catch them.
My assertion that the finest flat-fish in the world, including
turbot, were within the grasp of Yankeedom, was variously met.
Some became immediate converts to my opinion; and one-a
wealthy American gentleman-accepted my offer to procure a
proper trawl from England, to try the experiment thoroughly
Others ridiculed the "Britisher" who should come over from
Europe to teach the Yankees to catch fish; and made affecting
allusions touching the supererogation of instructing one's grandmother in the art of making extracts from. eggs; to say nothing of
other language, more expressive than elegant
At this attack, my indignation overcame my coolness, and I1
retorted that the Yankees had not improved in fishing since the
167 
TOURt IN AMERICA.
time of the Indians, but used precisely the same means, without
any change.
The "turbot controversy" was thus prolonged until the trawl
should come from England.
On the arrival of the trawl, I was disappointed at not being
able to make an experiment with it. Fortunately, I met an
American gentleman (Elnathan Smith, Esq.,) who, holding opinions similar to mine, had, ten years previously, imported nets of
this description; but, not finding any fishermen who knew how
to use them, the nets had remained among other stores until they
had become almost useless. One of them, less decayed than the
rest, was selected for a first trial, although little better than a
plaything, being only twelve feet in breadth. This net was taken
to Newport, Rhode Island, with a view of testing its efficiency
Several difficulties, however, supervened. First, I was ignorant
of the ground and bottom; secondly, I could not use such a small
and decayed net in deep water; thirdly, I had nothing but an
open boat; and lastly, the Newport fishermen beheld the novel
machine with derision.
"That thing catch a fish!" exclaimed one.
"I guess I'll put'em all in my eye!" observed another.
The miserable "turn-out" almost warranted their contempt.
Fortunately, I had secured the co-operation of some intelligent
inhabitants, who accompanied me.
Although limited to shallow water, and within a mile from the
shore, the success was conclusive. Seventeen varieties of fish
were caught, nearly all quite young; but of these, seven were flat
fish, including a small species of American turbot. The trial was
prolonged for three days, during which several hundred-weight
were caught.
But the shortness of the hauls in shallow water, the foulness
of the ground, both from rocks and sea-weed, rendered the experiment a very poor criterion of the success that may be looked foi
168 
TP,AWLING.
with a competent apparatus in deep water. The fish are so
plentiful, that, when the proper grounds are discovered and ex  plored by experienced trawlers, turbot, sole, and all the European
varieties of fish will be more plentiful in the States than they now
are in England and France.
After the success of the trawl had been fully demonstrated to
the newport fishermen, they took refuge in an expression far
beyond what might be expected from the most bigoted and preju diced John Bull.  " Oh!" ejaculated they, "oh, after all, it is a
very Y2zea)z way of catching fish!"
A  Wood Brixham trawler would make a fortune in America,
and increase the variety and amount of food for human beings.
A great proportion of the best kinds of fish consumed in England
is derived from the trawl-net; and it is extraordinary that Ameri
cans should neglect this mine of wealth, lying in abundance on
their coasts.  I venture to call to this subject the attention of the
chief magistrates of:New York, Boston, and other American sea board cities; and I do iiot see liy the American markets should
not be supplied with as great a variety of fish as those of England,
which is not, the case at present, merely for want of the trawl-net.
I should be very liaplry to give mny advice and assistance in this
matter, and to ofier my personal superintendence to add a new
and important branchl of commerce to the United States. As a
certain amount of experiecce is requisite both to manage the net
and discover the grounds which different kinds of fish frequent, I
strongly advise that a few experienced trawlers, with their nlets,
be imported from Brixham or other English ports, where this
species of fishing is carried to great perfection. It is not possible
to anticipate the effect such a measure would produce on the
fish-trade of America; but it can hardly fail to be very beneficial.
If' wve estimate the value and amount of fish taken only by the
trawl, as evidenced at Billingsgate in London, we may well be
astounded at the sum total, where three kinds alone, namely,
-T
169 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
turbot, soles, and plaice, are valued at several million dollars
per annum.   What an extraordinary gain would this be to a
country whence this vast source of wealth may be secured without any drain on the land, and with no other expense than the
labor of securing the fish. In this point, Americans are certainly
behind Englishmen; and it does seem rather supine on their
part to allow such opportunities to continue unavailable.
170
N 
CHAPTER V.
KIDD, THE PIRATE.
New View of this so-called Buccaneer-William III. in Partnership with
Kidd-Phipps, the supposed Founder of the House of Normanby-His
Discovery of sunken Treasures-Kidd's Expedition against Pirates  His Coinmnission from  William III. to make Reprisals against the
French-His Success as a Sea-rover-The English Government urged
by the East India Company to stop Kidd's Depredations-Order for
his Arrest-Gold, Silver, and Precious Stones buried by him in Gar diner's Island-His Apprehension at Boston, Massachusetts-He is
sent to England-His  Trial, S entences and Execution-Anecdote Account of the Treasure found on the Island-Attempts now in Pro gress to recover a large Amount of Gold and Silver supposed to be sunk
near the Shore in a Vessel formerly belonging to Kidd.
AMoNG the many admirable institutions with which New
York abounds, the Historical Society holds a distinguished place.
Through the kindness of my American friends, I frequently attended the lectures delivered at this establishment.   On one
occasion Kidd, the famous pirate, was the subject under discussion. The Hon. William Campbell, Judge. of the Superior Court
of New York, had spent much labor and research in ascertaining
the facts of Kidd's career; and, having consulted many old and
rare documents, he formed the following history of the so called
buccaneer. By Mr. Campbell's account it appears that Kidd
was no pirate at all; or, if he was one, King William III. was
his partner, together with many of the chief officers of his goveriinient.
It is difficult to understand, at the present day, why the Dutch
Ir 
TOUR iN AMERICA.
monarch of England should ever dream of going shares with such
a man as Kidd. But the wonderful stories, current at that time,
of the buccaneers-their excessive plunder, and secret stores of
wealth-had violently excited the public mind, and this excitement extended even to His Majesty.
Among many other popular stories of this nature, was that of
the celebrated Phipps. As this bears upon the case in point,
and is interesting and authentic, we will venture to insert it as a
kind of apology for the rather loose morality of King William III.
Phipps was born on a despicable plantation on the banks of the
Kennebec.   That is to say, the founder of the House of Normanby was a Yankee. Ill educated as he was, he contrived to
attain great wealth and consideration. The foundation of his forturie, and successful career, hinges on the following story. This,
we will hope, was the leading cause of King William's rumored
partnership with Kidd.
"Phipps," says a recent chronicler (Mr. Craik), "had obtained
information that somewhere in the neighborhood of the Bahamas,
lay a Spanish wreck, wherein was lost a mighty treasure hitherto undiscovered; and, having a strong impression that he was
destined to be the discoverer, he hoped to be able to persuade
some persons of wealth in England to advance the necessary
funds, and, all unknown as he had hitherto been, to get himself
appointed to conduct the search under a commission from the
Government.
"At length, in the year 1683, he was successful in the representationls he had made at Whitehall, and found himself captain
of a King's ship, the'Algier Rose,' a frigate of eighteen guns
and ninety-five men. He sought for the sunken treasure long
in vain. Once his men, losing all hope, rose in mutiny, and,
assembling on the quarter-deck, with their swords drawn, demanded that he should join with them in running off with the
ship, and take to the trade of piracy on the South Seas. Phipps,
172 
KIDD, THE PIRATE.
rushed in among them; and, with nothing but his bare hand.
felled many of them, and quelled the mutiny. His men, never theless, continued so mutinous that he was obliged to bear up for
Jamaica, and ship another crew. With the fresh and honester
hands, he proceeded to Hispaniola, and there, by his policy and
address, he contrived to worm out, from a very old Spaniard,
more authentic information as to where the lost treasure-ship
lay. Not succeeding, he returned to England, where, we are
told, so proper was his behavior that the best noblemen in the
kingdom, admitted him into their conversation.
"At length, he prevailed upon the Duke of Albemarle, to run
the pecuniary risk necessary for the adventure, and again set
sail for the fishing ground that had been so well baited half a
hundred years before. Among other novel instruments invented by Phipps, for the successful prosecution of the search, was
the diving-bell.  Anderson, in his'Origin of Commerce,' makes
mention, under the year 1680, of a diving machine, or engine.
used by Phipps. He quotes no authority. It must have been
in 1684 or 1685 that Phipps set out on this expedition.
"For a long time he was unsuccessful, and could make
nothing of their'peeping among the boilers,' as the shoals were
called. But at last one of his men, looking down into the calm
water, from the periagua, or canoe, perceived a plant or weed
growing, called a' sea-feather.'  That they might not return to
the ship empty-handed, one of the Indians was ordered to dive
and fetch it. The diver, bringing up the feather, brought therewith a surprising story-that he perceived a number of' great
guns lying round.  This report at once turned their despondencies into brilliant anticipations, and they were immediately confirmed in these assurances by the diver ascending with a sowv, or
lump of silver, worth three hundred pounds.
"When  Phipps heard this, he exclaimed:'Thanks  be to
God, we are made!'
17  
TOUR IN AMERICA.
"Away now went all hands to work.  In a short time, without the loss of a man, they brought up thirty-two tons of silver,
besides six tons appropriated by Captain Adderly of Providence.
"Upon much of the coined silver, there was grown  a crust
like limestone; this, when broken with instruments, revealed
whole bushels of discolored pieces of eight, which came tumbling
out. There were also great quantities of gold, pearls, and other
precious stones. In fine, the treasure recovered by Phipps
amounted in value to nearly ~300,000, although the adventurers were obliged to leave without a clear sweep, as their provisions ran short.  In consequence of this sudden departure,
considerable gleanings were discovered and gathered by other
explorers.
"Now came the difficulty.  His men seeing such vast litters
of silver sows and pigs come aboard, were naturally little disposed to be satisfied with ordinary seamen's wages, and were
tempted to seize the whole for themselves.  After various dangers, arising mainly from this feeling of cupidity, which Phipps
surmounted with great address, he got safe to England with the
treasure. The Duke of Albemarle was so well satisfied, that he
presented him with a gold cup for his wife, valued at ~1000.
The King (James II.) likewise was so delighted at his success,
that he knighted him, and made him Governor of Massachusetts."
The above story will, we trust, fully account for King William's partiality for supporting naval enterprise and adventure.
" William Kidd was an Englishman by birth, and had been
commander of a merchant-vessel that sailed between London
and New York. He was so celebrated for nautical skill and
enterprise, that he was recommended by Colonel RIichard Livingstone, of New York, then in London, as a proper person to
command a vessel which Lord Romney and others had pur                   C"Romance of the Peerage."
174 
KIDD, THE PIRATE.
chased and were fitting out against the hordes of robbers and
pirates, which preyed upon the commerce of all nations in the
Indian seas.
The expense of the expedition was ~6000, provided by a
joint fund, to which the King, Lord Somers, Earl of Romney,
Duke of Shrewsbury, Earl of Oxford, Lord Belmont, and Colonel
Livingstone were subscribers.
Kidd agreed to be concerned to the amount of one-fifth of the
whole, and Colonel Livingstone became his surety for a certain
sum.
Hume says the King promised to contribute one-half the ex pense, and reserved to himself one-tenth of the profits. How ever, he never advanced the money.
To give character to this expedition, two commissions were
issued: one against the pirates in the Indian seas, not interest ing enough to insert, and the other as follows:
"William the Third, by the grace of God, of England, Scotland, France, and Ireland, King, Defender of the Faith, &c.
"Whereas, we have taken into our consideration the injuries,
spoils, and arts of hostility committed by the French King and
his subjects, unto and upon ships, goods, and persons of our
subjects, extending to their grievous damages, and amounting to
great sums, &c. We did, therefore, with the advice of our privy
council, think fit, and ordered, that general reprisals be granted
against the ships, goods, and subjects of the French King, &C.
And whereas, William Kidd is thought fitly qualified, and hath
equipped, furnished, and victualed a ship, called the' Adventure,' galley, of the burden of two hundred eighty-seven tons,
&c. Know ye, therefore, that we, by these presents, grant commission to, and do authorize and license the said William Kidd
to set forth in warlike manner, and therewith by force of arms,
apprehend, seize, and take the ships and goods belonging to the
French King, &c.
175 
TOUR IN AM,EFRICA.
In witness whereof, We have caused the great seal of our
High Court of Admiralty of England to be thereunto affixed.
Dated, 11th day of December, 1695."
Kidd sailed from Plymouth in April, 1696; and, after taking a
valuable French ship on the voyage, arrived on the American
coast. Here he was held in high estimation, for the protection
he had afforded to the colonial commerce.  The Assembly were
so well satisfied with his services, that they granted him ~250
as an acknowledgement.
- After  three  months'  delay at New  York,  in completing
his crew to one hundred and fifty-five men, he sailed for the
East Indies. On his arrival, in July, 1697, he selected a convenient station, called Bob's Key, at the entrance of the Red Sea,
a place admirably situated for waylaying and robbing the trade
to and from the East Indies.
Kidd's first attempt was against a fleet of Moorish vessels, but
he was forced to quit his prey by several well armed galleys.
Still cruising about, he made a fruitless and unprofitable attack
on some Portuguese men-of-war.
At length, fortune was more propitious.   On the 30th of
January, 1697, about thirty miles off Cutsheen, he fell in with
a large Moorish ship, "The Quedagh Merchant," and speedily
captured her.  She was a large and very valuable prize, above
four hundred tons.  Her owners were Armenian merchants, ali(1
the vessel was on her voyage from Surat to Bengal.  The owners
offered 30,000 rupees as ransom, which was refused by Kidd,
who sold a small portion of the cargo for ~12,000; also supplying both ships with ammunition and provisions, besides dividing
plenty of gold among the crews.
Various other captures were made  as they roamed about in
ok mpany.  At length, the "Adventure" galley becoming ieaky,
!cy repaired to Madagascar, where they arrived in May, 1698.
The "-Adventure" was now abandoned and buried; and  the
176 
KIDD, THE PIRATE. 
plunder was divided into shares, as per agreement. This booty
was enormous. Each man had three bales of rich goods, besides
considerable amounts of gold and silver.  The name of Kidd's
prize, "The Ouedah Merchant," was now changed into "Scuddee
Merchant," and recommenced ranging the Indian Ocean from
the Red Sea to Malabar, and his depredations extended along
the Atlantic coast of South Anmerica, through the Bahama
Islands to the shores of Long Island; this last being selected as
the fittest for depositing his ill-gotten wealth.
It is believed, that among numerous other valuable ships, he
captured two Spanish galleons, and that he returned from the
East with a greater amount of treasure, than has ever been contained in any floating vessel.
The East India Company, furious at the idea of the disturbance
of commercial relations with the neighboring potentates, urged
the Government to put a stop to such lawless depredations upon
the commerce of the world, in which they asserted England, as
well as other nations, suffered. They declared, moreover, that
it became necessary, for the character of the Government, and
the immunity of the merchants, to take effectual measures to
suppress the widely extended evil, and to punish the individual
who had so grossly violated his commission, his plighted faith,
and the laws of the civilized world.
A hot debate ensued in the English Parliament, in which the
most bitter charges were made against the chancellor (Lord
Somers), and the Duke of Shrewsbury, as co-partners in a piratical scheme; and an order was issued for Kidd's apprehension,
by one of His Majesty's Secretaries of State, as follows: 
"Whitehall, Nov. 23, 1698.
"The Lprds Justices being informed by several advices from
the East Indies, of the notorious piracies committed by Captain
Kidd, Commander of the  Adventure' galley, and of his having
177 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
seized and plundered divers ships in those seas, their Exeelleneies
have given order to the commander of the squadron fitted out
for the East Indies, that he use his utmost endeavors to pursue
and seize the said Kidd, if he continue still in those parts,
so likewise they have commanded me to signify their directions
to the respective governors of the colonies under his Majesty's
obedience in America, that they give strict orders and take particular care for apprehending the said Kidd and his accomplices,
whenever he or they shall arrive in any of the said plantations;
as likewise that they secure his ship and all the effects therein,
it being their Excellencies' intention, that right be done to those
who have been injured and robbed by the said Kidd, and that
he and his associates be prosecuted with the utmost rigor of the
law. You are to be careful, therefore, duly to observe the said
directions, and if the said Kidd or any of his accomplices happened to be seized within the province under your government, you
are forthwith to transmit an account thereof hither, and take
care that the said persons, ship, and effects be secured till his Majesty's pleasure be known concerning them.
"I am, Gentlemen,
'?....'; Your most faithful, humble servant,
, )'~" /~"JA. VERNON."
Kidd's accusers asserted that the first piratical act of this bold
marauder was at Malabar, on the Red Sea, where he took a
quantity of corn; after which, he continued his depredations. A
more bloody, daring, and cruel pirate, according to their account
never infested the ocean. The King finally offered a reward for his
apprehension, and a free pardon, by proclamation, to every pirate
who should surrender himself before the 30th of April, 1699.
On Kidd's homeward passage from the West Indies to Boston,
he anchored in Gardener's Bay, at the east end of Long Island,
where he went on shore; and in the presence of Mr. John Gar
178
i 
KIDD, THE PIRATE.
dener, owner of the island, and, under the most solemn iinjunr
tions of secrecy, buried a quantity of gold, silver and precious
stones. He then sailed to Boston, where, on-the 3d July, he was
summoned before Lord Belmont (a party to the original adventure), and was required to give an account of his proceedings,
while in the service of the company; which he obstinately refused
to do. On the same day, the Assembly of Massachusetts examined
him; and on the 6th ordered his apprehension. His wife, Sarah,
came from New York, and claimed some plate, which had been
seized, as her property; this was restored to her.  A letter from
the King and Council, of February 10th, 1699, having required
all pirates to be sent to England for trial, Kidd, with Joseph
Bradish, and several others, was transported thence.
Kidd was put on trial for the murder of William Moore, gunner
of the ship, whom he had killed by striking him on the head
with a bucket. The trial was conducted with great severity
and injustice; Bradenham, the doctor of Kidd's ship, being the
chief witness against him. Moore, the gunner, was proved to
have attempted a mutiny against Kidd. In the altercation that
ensued Kidd( threw a bucket, and fractured Moore's skull.  From
the evidence, published at length in Hargrave's State Trials,
1777, we can not arrive at any other conclusion than that given
by Kidd himself, namely: "that it was an accident, for which
he was heartily sorry." THe was, however, found guilty, sentenced to death, and executed at Execution Dock, May 12th,
1701.  On his previous visit to Gardener's Island, in the absence
of Mr. Gardener, he presented his wife with two small blankets
of gold cloth, rich and beautiful. In a letter from the present
proprietor of the island, he says:" We have a small piece, a
sample of cloth of gold, which my father received from Mrs.
Wetmore, mother of the wife of Captain Mather of New London.
1 send you an extract from her letter, giving an account of Cap
tain Kidd's having been on this island."
179 
TOUl IN AMERICA.
"I remember," she says, "when very young, hearing  my
mother say that her grandmother was wife to Lord Gardener,
when the pirate Kidd came to Gardener's Island. The captain
wanted Mrs. Gardener to roast him a pig: she being afraid to
refuse him, cooked it very nice, and he was much pleased with
it; hlie then made her a present of this silk, which she gave to
her two daughters.  Where the other went, or whether it is in
being, I know not; but this was handed down to me; it has
been kept very nice, and, I believe, is now as good as when first
given, which must be upward of a hundred years."
It having been ascertained, in some way, that he had buried
treasures upon this island, commissioners were dispatched from
Boston, by Governor Belmonlt, to secure the same. Having
taken possession of it, they gave to Mr. Gardener a receipt therefor, the original of which is still preserved by the family, and is
as follows:
"A true account of all such gold, silver, jewels, and merchandise, late in the possession of Captain William Kidd, which
have been seized and secured by us in pursuance of an order
from his Excellency, Richard, Earl of Behnont, bearing date
July 7, 1699:
"Received, thie 17th instant, of Mr. Jolhn Gardener, viz.:
oz.
1. One baig of dust-gold.........................   63
2. One bag of coined gold...........................11
" one in silver........................ 124
3. One bag of dust-gold...........................    24
4. One bag of silver rings and sundry precious stones..   4
5. One bag of unpolished stones...................... 12t
6. One piece of crystal, cornelian rings, two agates, two
amethysts.
7. One bag of silver buttons and lamps.
8. One bag of broken silver......................   173
9. One bag of gold bars........................    353'
\.
]to 
KIDD, THE PIR,ATE.
oz.
10. One bag of gold bars............................  238,
11. One bag of dust-gold.........................               591
12. One bag of silver bars........................           309
"SAMUEL SEWELL,
NATHANIEL BYFIELD,
"JEREMIAH DUMMER,
ANDREW B]ELCRER.
" Co?nmissioners.'
The inventory of the whole property obtained by the commissioners, shows a more considerable sumn than is included in the
above receipt.   Some was found in the prisoner's chest, and
mrore in the possession of Duncan Campbell, of New  York,
which had been landed from on board the sloop "Antonio," the
last vessel commanded by the pirate. The schedule, in possession of Mr. Gardener, exhibits the amount to be 1111 ounces
of gold, 2350 ounces of silver, seventeen ounces of jewels and
precious stones, sixty-nine precious stones, fifty-seven bars of
sugar, forty-one bales of merchandise, seventeen pieces of canvas,
one large loadstone, sundry silver candlesticks, and other articles
of value.'
The Quedah, or Scuddee Merchant, with the main portion of
the treasure, disappeared, and was apparently lost forever. But
some years ago, a very old man, having acquired a competence,
bought a portion of land at the entrance of the Highlands on the
banks of the Hudson River.  This was considered a strange
location at the time, as it was far from the habitation of men.
Shortly before his death, he informed some relatives that his
father had revealed to him that, when he was a young man, he
was witness to the arrival of a large Moorish ship, the "Scuddee
Merchant," which had been chased up the Hudson River by the
king's cruisers. When she arrived at the entrance of the Highlands, the wind suddenly shifted to the north, preventing her
further progress up the Hudson, and the crew, afraid of being
181 
TOUR IN AMERICA.
captured, ran her close to a steep bank, and set her on fire. She
speedily foundered, and the crew escaped on shore.
Informrnant's father had likewise explained to him that the
vessel was loaded with gold and silver, and that the crew had
received directions from Kidd (who had gone to Boston, with
about ~10,000, to make terms with the governor, Lord Belmont),
to take the vessel to Livingstone Manor, the property of Colonel
Livingstone, his partner.
These rich tidings were corroborated by sundry other circum stances, and excited the public mind exceedingly. Moreover,
the land adjacent had been purchased by the old man, with
the intention of trying, at some future time, to rescue the
treasure.
At length, a company was organized to search, and active
proceedings were commenced. First, they bored at the spot
indicated with long augurs, and were speedily assured that a
large ship lay there.  After boring through a certain thickness
of wood, they came to some metallic substance. This encour aged them amazingly, and they increased their outlay, to enable
them to build a coffer-dam round the vessel-no easy task, as
the river was fifty feet deep; moreover, the soil had been washed
down from the banks in the lapse of so many years, sufficient to
cover the wreck to the depth of many feet.
After overcoming the natural difficulties they completed the
coffer-dam, and set a powerful engine at work to pump the water
out. With incredible exertion they succeeded in lowering the
water considerably, and began to look forward to a successful
result to their labors. Suddenly, however, they discovered that
the pump not only did not lower the water, but that they had
the greatest difficulty in holding their own. On a careful examinmation, for this provoking leak, they ascertained that it was
caused by a subterranean stream rushing in beneath the cofferdam with great force. This checked the enterprise, almost at
182 
KIDD, THE PIRATE.
the point of success. Differences arose between the parties, and
the case is now in the law courts.
From all we have heard and read on this subject, we are
inclined to believe that this is the richest and most remarkable
instance of treasure-trove that ever interested the public mind.
We have heard, from good authority, that parties are now organizing, and preparing very powerful and efiective means to carry
on the project.
We fully believe that the Quedagh, or Scuddee Merchant lies
there; and do not see why, with such skill and energy as Brother
Jonathan will bring to bear on such a project, it should not be
successful, and prove as profitable a venture as that of Phipps.
183
I 
I 
MISCELLANEOUS NARRATIVES. 
I 
A HURRICANE IN ANTIGUA.
The mists, that late involved the hill,
Disperse. The mid-day sun looks red: strange burrs
Surround the stars, which vaster fill the eye.
A night of vapor, closing fast around,
Snatches the golden noon. Each wind appeased,
The north flies forth, and hurls the frighted air:
Not all the brazen engineries of man,
At once exploded, the wild burst surpass.
Yet thunder, yoked with lightning and with rain,
Water with fire, increase the infernal din:
Canes, shrubs, trees, huts, are whirled aloft in air.
GRAINGER.
READER, were you ever in a West-Indian hurricane?  If such
has been your lot, I am sure you will agree with me in heartily
and anxiously wishing never to behold one again; for though
there is something strangely fascinating in scenes of terror, few
desire to renew their acquaintance with them.
The following description of an unusually severe elemental
convulsion, is derived from notes taken while on a visit, in
August, a few years ago, to a friend at Dry-Hill House, in the
vicinity of St. John's, the capital of Antigua. It is the faint
record of a calamity which will be memorable in the annals of
that unfortunate island.
The inmates of my friend's mansion were one morning early 
A HURRICANE IN ANTIGUA.
astir, and actively employed in preparations for a mnarriage-feast.
With the happy, careless air, peculiar to their race, negro women and children were bustling among the large and luxuriant
foliage which, if it every now and then concealed them from
view, could not stifle the sound of their rapid chattering, their
giggling laughter, and snatches of songs, conveyed in the queer
negro dialect. This irrepressible animation, reckless gayety, and
vivacious defiance of care, can hardly be imagined by the inhabitants of our northern climate. The merriment of negroes
surpasses that of any other branch of the great human family.
I also had risen early on this festive occasion, being unwilling
to lose any portion of the hilarity which I knew would cornmmence with the earliest light of morning. Never shall I forget
the splendor with which the day broke-a splendor to be witnessed only in the tropics. The sun slowly rose from the glasslike sea, first glancing on a few clouds which had congregated,
then
' Flattering the mountain-tops with sovereign eye,"
and gradually revealing the gorgeous colors of the vegetation. 1
gazed with rapture on the serene magnificence, and the language
of the Psalmist was not unremembered:  "The  heavens declare the glory of God; and the firmament showeth his handywork."
My ruminations, at this moment, were disturbed by one of the
servants (a black girl), who brought me a cup of coffee and a
cigar-the usual morning-custom on a West-Indian plantation.
It struck me that something uncommon, nay, even ominous, was
observable in the expression of her countenance, and I waited,
with no little curiosity, to hear what she had to communicate.
"Hy, massa," said she, "here de coffee.  How do you do dis
morning?"  Then, with a significant glance, she added, "Ole
massa, he say, will nyung massa look at'rometer?"
188 
A HURRiCANE IN ANTIGUA.
Thank you, Nancy," I replied, "it will be time enough to
inspect the weather-glass when I have finished my coffee. How
are you, Nancy?"
"So-so, rader poorly, tank God, massa," rejoined the girl as,
with a sigh, she left me.
'Very mysterious," thought I, "is this message- about the
barometer with my morning coffee.  It never occurred before
during my visit here.  Something strange must be i.....ther.
Let me see if I can find it out."
I accordingly looked carefully round at all points of the compass; but nothing extraordinary was perceptible, excepting that
a dull haze crept languidly over the scene, and that the silence
was awful.
In a few minutes, having finished my cigar, I went into my
friend's bedroom. Though generally an early riser, he was, on
this occasion, still in bed.
"Hallo!" exclaimed I, " why are you still there? Up, man,
up, and set to work: you have plenty to do this day."
"Heaven grant," responded he, "that I may not have too
much to do before a few hours are past! There's a hurricane
in the air-I am sure of it."
"Stuff and niionsense!" I rejoined.  "The barometer stands
firmly at 30~; it has rather gone up since yesterday."
"My  dear boy," returned he, emphatically, "I have been
thirty years a resident in the West Indies. During that time I
have witnessed eight hurricanes.   The  last three were foreshadowed by my own sensations.   These sensations are now
aggravated tenfold. A terrible day is before us."
That forebodings like those under which nmy friend then suffered, are unerring, I have since that time ascertained. They
are produced by two causes, namely, physical derangement, and
observation of meteorological peculiarities.  In his treatise on
European Colonies, Mr. Howison observes, " Persons long resi
189 
A HURRICANE IN ANTIGUA.
dent in the West Indian Islands are able to foretell the approach
of hurricanes with tolerable accuracy, by the observation of certain atmospherical phenomena; but this kind of knowledge
proves, unfortunately, of little avail, either on shore or at sea;
the violence of the tempest generally rendering impotent all precautions that may be employed against its destructive effects.
On the day preceding the hurricane, the weather is Llmost always
calm and sultry, and the sea-breeze does not set in at the usual
hour, or, perhaps, is not felt at all; the sky is red and hazy,
and the horizon surcharged with clouds; the noise of the surf
seems particularly loud and distinct; and thunder, more or less
distant, is heard incessantly. At length, the wind begins to
blow in shifting gusts, and to lull again; these increase in
strength and frequency, and ere long the blast comes roaring
from one quarter with concentrated fury." This, no doubt, is
generally correct; but it does not precisely describe the morning witnessed by me.
As I perceived my friend to be really in earnest, and that he
was suffering greatly under his apprehensions, I gave in to his
humor, and promised to note accurately the appearances of the
weather, and the movements of the mercury in the barometer.
This assurance seemed a little to relieve him.
"I shall leave all preparations and precautions to you," said
he.  "I am quite unnerved, as is always the case when these
fearful tempests are breeding in the air. The tornado will be
upon us within twenty-four hours."
It can not be supposed that a young man who, for five years
previously, had been knocking about in all parts of the world in
small vessels, could sympathize with the climate-worn and
sensitive planter. I, therefore, left the bedroom in excellent
spirits; not only without apprehension, but actually longing for
the hurricane to arrive, as excellent fun; so rash and thoughtless is youth.
190 
A HIIURRICANE IN ANTIGUA.
Outside the house I met Betsey, the staid black housekeeper,
feeding the poultry.
"Well, Betsey," said I, "massa say hurricane come to-day."
Never did a few words produce such a change in the person
who heard them. The woman's gabble to the cocks and hens
ceased suddenly. A grave, disconcerted look supplanted the
good-humored smile which had played about her thick lips. I
might almost say she turned pale; and the measure of corn fell
from her hands. It was evident that until now she had heard
nothing of her master's prognostications.
"Oh, ky, ky!" sobbed she.  "Massa always right."   And off
she ran, in violent perturbation.
"The devil!" exclaimed I, "here's a pretty kettle of fish!"
In a few minutes, the whole household was in violent commotion.   Messengers were instantly dispatched to the sugarworks (about half a mile inland), and also to the cove, where
an establishment of small vessels was kept for various purposes,
such as sugar-droghing, collecting coral to burn into limne, &e.
Meantime, the table in the dining-room was removed, disclosing
a huge trap-door leading down to a spacious cellar.  Into this
chasm, contrived as a place of refuge during hurricanes, the
scared nigger-kind conveyed all the most portable articles of
value.
By nine o'clock, all needful preparations were completed, and
a hurried breakfast was snatched.  The barometer certainly
had a downward tendency, having fallen.03~ but there was no
other perceptible indication of a change. A light air from
E.N.E. had now set in-the usual trade-wind;  but all was
placid and beautiful as before. In the yard grew a magnificent
tamarind-tree, loaded with nearly ripe fruit. The pods hung
in large and tempting clusters; and the foliage, gently agitated
hy the breeze, gracefully waved to and fro.
The domestic anirmals were evidently disturbed: their man:
191 
A HURRICANE IN ANTIGUA.
ner was hurried and uneasy. They clearly had a knowledge
of impending evil.
Not being so skeptical as to disbelieve these signs, slight as
they were, I kept all my senses on the alert, watching alternately the mercury in the barometer, and the signs of the
weather. By eleven o'clock, a more decided fall in the glass
was evident; it had gone down to 29'80~. To the northward
the horizon had darkened considerably. The trade-wind, however, still swept gently and refreshingly over us; but at two
P.M. it died away, and then the mercury fell considerably.
All doubt about the approaching tempest was now dispelled
The black inhabitants of the small cottages in the vicinity, belonging to the estate, flocked up to Dry-Hill House, to seek consolation from companionship with the white people.
A light breeze soon sprang up from the north, and, as it rose,
the mercury fell. At three o'clock a furious gale was raging.
Being anxious to observe the proceedings of the shipping, I
slipped out of the back part of the house, and went down toward a cliff overlooking the anchorage. To my great disgust as
a sailor, I perceived among the twelve merchant-vessels, lying
in the roads, that only four were making any preparations to
withstand the typhoon. Three were at single anchor, with a
short scope of chain, and top-gallant yards across, and one brig
with royal-yards and head-sails loosed. Such bare-faced and
lubberly carelessness is almost incredible. " Old Columbus"
knew better.  He soon made himself master of the signs preceding a hurricane in the West Indies.
"When he was off the principal Spanish West Indian settlement at St. Domingo, he foresaw that a hurricane would shortly
arise, and sent to Ovando, the governor of the place, to request
that he might be allowed to take refuge in the harbor; but
this being refused, he was obliged to stand out to sea, and face
the storm.' What man, without excepting even Job, would
192 
A HURRICANE IN ANTIGUA.
not have died of despair,' says Columbus,'to find that, at the
crisis when the lives of myself, my son, my brother, and my
friends were in danger, I was prohibited from approaching that
country, and those ports, which, under the blessing of God, I
had purchased for Spain at the expense of my blood!'  At this
time a fleet of twenty-four ships was about to sail for Spain,
carrying large quantities of gold and pearls, partly the revenues
of the king, and partly the property of those private individuals
who were passengers on board. Columbus, notwithstanding
Ovando's inhumanity, advised him to detain the fleet a few
days, because a tornado was likely soon to occur; but his warn ings were treated with contempt, and the vessels were suffered
to proceed on their voyage. Before the close of the following
day, twenty of their number, with fifteen hundred persons had
foundered in the hurricane.   The loss of treasure on this occa,
sion was so great as to affect the financial resources of Spain for
several years after."*
As the wind still steadily increased, I considered it best to get
back to the shelter of the house. To enable me to do this con veniently, it was necessary I should creep along under the gar den bank, which offered some protection against the gale. Not
having the slightest idea that the force of the wind would be so
enormous in this early stage of the hurricane, I attempted to
walk past a gateway, and being instantly struck by the full
power of the blast, was rolled over, and driven, as by a giant's
strength, violently along the ground. For a moment I gave
myself up for lost, as the harbor of St. John was directly in my
compelled  course.   Fortunately, before coming to the open
water, the land declined into a bushy marsh. Here, assisted by
the underwood, I clung firmly to Mother Earth.
After resting awhile and collecting my thoughts I succeeded,
by taking advantage of the nature of the ground, which sheltered
* Howison's " Colonies."
I
193 
A HURRICANE IN ANTIGUA.
me in some measure from the wind, in regaining the yard of
Dry-Hill House. The stunning roar of the blast continued, and
the noble tamarind-tree, writhing, seemingly in agony,  was
grinding its huge limbs, whipping off large branches, and throwing them and the fruit violently about, as if by this oblation it
hoped to appease the demon of the gale. Alas! the sacrifice
appeared only to incense and provoke its rage.
I entered the mansion, and sat down to regain my breath. It
now became necessary to close and barricade every door in the
house, and nail the windows firmly down. A crowd of women
and children were huddled together on the floor in silence.  Conversation was impossible, on account of the furious noise.
My imagination had been very much excited by the dismrnemberment of my favorite tamarind. The idea of its apparent torture held me in thrall. Through a crevice in one of the shutters, I
painfully watched its throes. Its main branches (the growth of
a hundred years) wrestled obstinately with the opposing force:
their groaning was heard above the mighty wind; and soon nothing was left but a few jagged stumps on the blackened trunk.
Darkness now closed upon us. The violence of the tempest
waxed stronger and stronger: the noise increased to such an
overwhelming roar, that the strongest efforts of the human voice,
in closest proximity, became totally useless: they were "as a
whisper in the ears of death, unheard." Loud cracks now gave
notice that the house began to complain. The women and children were immediately roused from their sitting position, and, by
signs, desired to go below. This movement was speedily effected,
and the ground floor was left in possession of the manager and
myself. Our attention was now divided between the barometer,
which fortunately hung near the open trap-door (our last retreat)
and the perilous vibration of the building. The walls appeared
to bend and give before the raging blast.
Suddenly, a violent shock was felt, sending a thrill to our
194 
A HURRICANE IN ANTIGUA.
hearts.  This was afterward ascertained to be caused by the
demolition of the kitchen, stables, and outhouses adjoining the
dwelling, which, with all their contents, had flown away on the
wings of the wind.  Not a vestige was ever recovered or seen.
Numerous smaller shocks succeeded, like reports of cannon. Huge
stones were hurled through the air, battering and tearing away
the verandas that surrounded the house.
To crown our dismay, a large spout of heavy wood, intended
to convey the cane-juice from the mill to the boiling-house of a
neighboring estate, two miles to the northward, came spear-like,
through the air, penetrating the roof, piercing the table, and
fixing itself into the floor close to us. The part which projected
above the roof caught the gale, and acted as a powerful lever,
shaking the house as if it were pasteboard. In a moment more
it parted, leaving the lower portion still fixed. 
At this time, the barometer had fallen to 28'50. We felt, or
fancied we felt, the house giving way. Taking a farewell look
at our faithfifl monitor, we prepared to descend into the cellar.
To my intense astonishment, the mercury suddenly fell a quarter
of an inch. In the excitement of the moment, I seized hold of
the manager, roaring the information in his ear; but, as before,
the human voice was of no avail in such a turmoil. By dumb
show, I succeeded.
On a sudden, we were aware of a marvelous change in the
state of things.
"Great Heaven!" I ejaculated, "what can this mean?"
There was a dead calm-a profound silence, disturbed only by
the low, wailing sobs and incoherent prayers of the women and
children in the cellar. We were in the vortex of the hurricane!
It is impossible to describe the horror of this period. A door was
unbarred and opened, and, with a lighted candle, I stepped out.
The flame took its upward course steadily. All around was
black, and calm, and silent.
195 
A HURRICANE IN ANTIGUA.
But the stillness was of brief duration. In a short time, a distant rumbling nioise was heard, when I quickly re-entered the
house, drawing bolt and bar. A slight tremor shook the ground:
an earthquake was added to our ills. Again came the hurricane
from the opposite quarter, overwhelming our senses with its
fierce impetuosity. The house, already shaken, now rocked to
and fro, threatening instant destruction. We immediately descended into the cellar, fastening down the trap-door with a
strong lashing. During several dreary hours, we remained in
suspense, stunned by the hellish disturbance overhead, while our
feelings were occasionally varied by the horrible and sickening
sensation of the earthquake.  Some bottles were thrown down
by the agitation of the ground, and the long rows of rum-casks
grotesquely heaved, as if instinct with life, and tottered and fell
in the most approved style of German demon-pranks.
At four A.M., there was a sensible diminution of the gale.
We proceeded carefully to unfasten the trap-door. On its falling
back, the moon wuas plainly visible, throwing light on groups of
dense, black clouds driving furiously across the heavens. Nothing was above us but the sky! The upper part of the house
was gone!
My friend proceeded with me to a rising ground, waiting in
anxious expectation for daylight. His agitation was extreme.
Dawn was in the east.
"Look toward the mill," he said.  "I can not do it.  It must
be gone. Nothing could withstand such a night. I am a ruined man!"
My eyes were strained anxiously in the direction of the mill.
At length I exclaimed:
"Cheer up:   The work stands firm and strong.  All yonder
seems to be right."
The sun now appeared with the serenity which marked its rise
on the preceding day; but the scene of devastation that met our
196 
A HURRICANE IN ANTIGUA.
eyes baffles all power of description. Had a hot blast from hell
passed over the whole island, the effect could not have been
more destructive. Vegetation, human habitations, animal life,
all had vanished.
On our return to the house, we passed through what had
been a group of lofty cocoa-nut trees, of which nothing remained
but stumps, standing only a few feet from the earth. The huge
tops, foliage, fruit, and remainder of the trunk, were gone. A
solid stone wall. two feet high, surmounted by iron railings, had
surrounded the house.  This, railings and all, were blown away
in masses; some of two hundred weight were afterward found
a mile off.
The previous day we were in the midst of plenty and luxury,
now we were glad to banquet on a decayed ham luckily found
in the cellar.
Reports soon came in from the different parts of the property.
We understood that the cove-house was blown down, and that
all the small vessels were driven high and dry far above highwater mark into the jungle on Rat Island.  The overseer of the
works, a black, reported all destroyed except the boiling-house,
which, however, had sustained serious injury. Its steam-engine
chimney was blown down, and the earthquake had made a rent
in its wall.
"Is any one killed?" asked I.
"Yes, massa," returned the overseer, "three nigger missing."
But is any one killed?" I repeated.
"Oh, no massa, nobody kill," replied the overseer, "only big
rock'tone mash up poor Peggy head."
You don't mean to say she's dead?" persisted I.
"Um  head mash  quite up, massa," responded the negro.
"Big rock'tone come tro de air, tro de roof, hit um so," added
he, with a queer gesticulation, "kill um dead."
197 
A HURRICANE IN ANTIGUA.
I ascertained afterward, that the poor woman had been killed
in the manner described.
The natural anxiety of a sailor again led me down to view the
shipping. Never did I behold such a scene of wreck! Two of
the largest craft had foundered with all hands; the lower mastheads still sticking above the water. The small vessels, as already stated, I found a long way above high-water mark. Three
had ridden out the storm, and among them, to my surprise, the
brig. There she lay, still at single anchor, the main royal-yard
still crossed, but the fore top-mast-head twisted off, and all the
upper gear gone.  Who can account for this?
The poor steamer to which I was attached in English Harbor
had fared very badly. In the first part of the gale she had dragged
the huge moorings, and gone broadside on to the wharf. On the
gale shifting, not being able to snap the numerous fastenings by
which she was secured to the buried guns, she had torn down
the whole length of the wharf whereto she was attached, and
dragged huge masses of debris into the harbor. Several ponderous stone buildings in the dockyard were blown down, and a
Dutch corvette, strongly secured in English Harbor, was driven
up into six feet water; her usual draft being seventeen feet.
It may, perhaps be consoling to our lady-readers to be inform..
ed that the wedding to which allusion is made at the commencement of this narrative, took place a few days after, as soon as
the roads could be cleared of the numerous and heavy masses of
wreck, blown on them by this fearful hurricane.
It is believed that the happy couple are still "a happy couple,"
with numerous children, living in affluence at St. John's, Antigua.
198 
CRUISE OF THE "FLAME."
CHAPTER I.
Port Royal Harbor. Jamaica-The Palisades-Exploits of a Guard-fish  Chasing a Sun-fish-Prodigious Strength of this Creature-Ferocity of
a Shark, and Death of his Victim-An extempore Steam-bath-Convoy
Signal for Chagres-Weighing the Anchor-A mysterious Impediment  An old Tar's Explanation-The Discovery-Dolly Johnson, the Negro
Bum-boat Woman-Premonition-Dolly's critical Situation-Deluging
Rain-The Chagres River-Perpetual Rain-Gigantic Lizards-Town
of Chlagres-Exploring Party-Balboa's first View of the South Seas
Modern Improvement in the Airiness of Ships.
ON the 10th of April, 18-, H.M.S. "Flame" was lying in
Port Royal Harbor, Jamaica. The awning had just been spread,
and the recently-washed decks, even at the early hour of 7-30
A.M., were perfectly dry and even hot under the scorching and
nearly vertical sun.   The Mid. of the morning watch, feeling
exhausted with his exertions (since 4 A.M.) in holy-stoning the
decks, was too glad to pipe the ship's company to breakfast, and
get a little rest. Seating himself in the gangway, he looked
anxiously to the eastward, in eager expectation of the sea-breeze.
Vaiu were his longings. The whole surface of the sea, as far
as eye could reach, was like a mirror. From the burial-ground,
called " The Palisades" (a spot justly dreaded by all whites as
being the receptacle of victims of the yellow fever), a transparent
vapor arose, flickering a few feet above the surface: this was
apparently an evaporation from the numerous bodies there deposited-a most sickening and horrible exhalation. 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
Through this haze, which trembled and vibrated as it hung
over the ground, the diminutive islets, guarding the entrance to
Port Royal, appeared to be agitated into sandy wavelets. So
strange a contrast to the perfect repose of the ocean, presented an
effect which, once beheld, can never be forgotten. It suggested
to the imagination, a group of unquiet spirits transformed into
islets, and imprisoned in a sea of molten brass. Not a sound
was to be heard. Even insect life, usually so brisk and active
in tropical climates, appeared to have withdrawn from the intolerable and unmitigated solar heat. Every thing in animated nature was unwilling, if not unable, to appear until a cooling breeze
should refresh the air and abate the tyranny of a cloudless sun.
In the narrow shade caused by the hull and awning of the
vessel, a numerous shoal of small fish had taken refuge. Clustering closely to the coppered side, they appeared to fancy themselves in perfect security. Our Mid., a lover of natural history,
watched them with interest, and wondered at their boldness.
Suddenly, he was startled by a splash. A guard-fish, four feet
long, had sprung a distance of at least twenty feet, and, with unerring aim, seized a victim. This was frequently repeated without
a single failure. If human dexterity may vaunt its frequent
successes, instinct can truly boast that it never fails.
The strength of some, and the ferocity of other members of the
finny tribe frequenting the coast of Jamaica are almost beyond
belief. A few remarkable instances fell under the author's observation, and may be considered worthy of note.  A gentlem-an,
famous for his exploits among the fish of these waters, was taking
a cruise in his little yacht of seven tons. While sailing about
the spaciolus harbor of Port Royal, his attention was attracted by
a large substance floating and slowly revolving like the motion of
a wheel.
"Hallo!" exclaimed he, "that answers to the description 1
have read of a sun-fish.  Here's at him."
200 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
As the little vessel approached the huge creature, a man was
stationed at the boltsprit end, poising a harpoon. The yacht
soon luffed up, head to wind.  Bringing the boltsprit gently over
the unconscious sea-monster, a splashing commotion in the water
proved, plainly enough, that the harpoon had been driven well
home.
It might be supposed that victory was now achieved: no such
thing. To reckon without one's host, has, time immemorial,
been denounced as egregious folly; and, on the present occasion,
"the host" strongly differed in his reckoning from the guest who
would fain, like Paul Pry, have intruded on him. If it might be
permitted, for only a single moment, to compare a specimen of
Nature's most uncouth productions with another which is marked
by consummate perfection and loveliness, one might say that this
ill-favored creature, like the adored Celia of the poet,
"Was coy, and hard to win."
Indignant at the mere idea of captivity, the sun-fish immnediately made for the sea, choosing the deepest channel, and towed
the little craft rapidly after him.  Sails were promptly taken in;
and the barb-harnessed fish was left to his own devices. The
rate at which he towed the boat was pleasant enough, and, indeed, very exhilarating as long as his efforts were confined to the
harbor.  When, however, it appeared that the open sea was the
creature's object, the affair assumed a different aspect. The
vessel contained but little water; hardly any provisions. Still,
away she went from the land at the rate of six miles an hour,
without the assistance of a stitch of canvas!
"Let us haul up by the harpoon line, and kill the beggar with
a lance," angrily exclaimed the owner.   "I never had the luck
to bag a sun-fish before."*
* "The sun-fish (Orthagoriscus)," say the naturalists, " grows  to an
immense size, sometimes attaining the diameter of eight feet."
TV
201 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
Accordingly, all hands (a scanty crew, unfortunately,) clapped
on, and tried hard to haul the vessel up alongside the fish. But
their best effolbrts were of no avail, their strength being unequal to
the task. Still onward went the monster with unabated speed!
At length, the land growing dim and distant, our adventurers
had no alternative but to cut the tow-rope and free themselves,
after being towed nearly twenty miles.
The prodigious strength evinced by this sun-fish, if sun-fish it
was, in tugging the yacht so far to sea, proves its size to have
been far greater than is generally imagined; and may  afford
some approach to an explanation of the supposed fabulous kraken
of the Scandinavian seas.
During our stay in Port Royal harbor, we had fearful evidence
of the ferocity of the shark, in an incident which occurred the day
before the brig sailed for Chagres.  A sergeant of the army, his
trowsers tucked up above his knees, had been employed washing
clothes. As the guard-house, where his duty called him, was
close to the point leading into the harbor, he naturally walked
on the shallow tongue of the point to rinse the soap-suds from his
bare legs.
While engaged in his ablutions, a shark seized him by the
calf of his leg, and tried to drag him into deep water. - His
fearful screams speedily brought his comrades to the rescue, but
they were only just in time to catch him by the hand, as he
was disappearing under water, and drag him toward the beach.
Even then, the shark fought hard for his victim. The taste of
human blood seemed to madden his ravenous nature into desperation; and for a short time, it was doubtful if the " Vampire of
the sea" would not have been drawn forth from his element,
hanging to his victim's leg.  The horror of the spectators was
further excited by the appearance of numerous other sharks
closing in from all quarters, and trying to force themselves
alongside their too successful kindred murderer.
202 
CRUJSE OF THE FLAME.
At length, after a harrowing struggle, the bleeding and man gled man was torn from the jaws of the shark, and laid gently
on the beach.
Alas, it was evident that life was ebbing fast away. The poor
fellow had received two awful wounds. From the calf of the
leg, where he was first seized and held with the tenacity of a
bull-dog, the flesh was completely torn off; but the fatal wound
was in the thigh, which, presenting a huge gap in the fleshy part,
showed plainly that the febmoral artery had been divided. Af fectionately shaded from the blazing sun by his comrades, the
sufferer gasped heavily once or twice, and then all was over.
The general supposition was that, while one shark held him by
the lower part of the leg, another gave the fatal bite.
This shocking occurrence sent the Mids. (for once serious and
reflective) off to their brig.  Many  a good resolution was made
as they turned into their hammocks.
The following morning at 8 A.iM. a gun was fired and the convoy-flag hoisted for Chagres. So unusually profound, however,
was the calm, that the flag drooped without the slightest movement, and the smoke hung like a shroud over the vessel; fitting
symbols for so deadly a place.  Our Mid. was shortly relieved
from his morning watch, and gladly descended to breakfast.
In a cabin only eight feet by six, and destitute of ventilation,
were assembled a jolly crew of ten young fellows. The place
was a sort of extempore steam-bath, and its effects on the occupants may easily be imagined. To make matters worse, the
ship's allowance of scalding tea for breakfast, was produced in
a large tea-pot, and carefully stowed in the centre of a small table,
as if to insure an impartial distribution of its steam. The thermometer was at 108!
"Well, old fellow," said one of the party, "what was the cause
of that bark on deck just now?"
"Only that horrid convoy signal for Chagres," replied our mid
203 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
shipman.  "What  a dreadful place it is:  This is our fourth
trip running. We deserve to be sickly. Confound it!"
In order to take advantage of the land-breeze, every preparation was now made for sailing. The convoy consisted only of
one schooner. She parted company willfully the first night, and
was never seen afterward.
Fragrant and delicious, though laden with malaria and death,
were the light land-breezes from the north. Sweeping over
the swamps on which Fort Augusta was situated, they fanned
with treacherous dalliance the heated frames of the crew laboring at the capstan.
"Cheerly, cliheerly, men!" was the animating cry of the officer
in command, as the massive links of the chain-cable came slowly,
as if with obstinate reluctance, through the hawse-hole.
" Up with the anchor, lads; toss him up to the bow!" vociferated the officer.
Merrily revolved the capstan-wheel, while muscles and sinews
were energetically strained to keep time to a lively tune from the
fife. A hundred men concentrated their powers to weigh the
anchor.. Gay was their measured tramp, and irresistible appeared their strength as they rapidly circumambulated the great
mechanical purchase.  Suddenly however, the movement was
stopped.
"Heave lads, heave together; tear him out of the ground!"
exclaimed the officer.
With a simultaneous effort, every man exerted himself to the
utmost: another heave, and yet another. All was in vain.
The anchor appeared to be enchanted. A double purchase was
then applied, and the mechanical skill of the vessel tried to the
utmost.  It was no use.  The men might as well have endeavored to uproot Olympus.
As it was now clear that some uncommon cause prevented
the purchase of the anchor, a requisition was dispatched to the
204 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
dockyard for assistance, and the ship's company were sent to
breakfast. Numerous were the surmises on this singular event.
It was well known that the bottom of Port Royal harbor was
composed of black mud, which, assuredly, could not present any
formidable resistance. What could be the mysterious cause?
At length, an old tar, remarkable for taciturnity and good con  duct as a seaman, held forth as follows:
"I knows all about it.  Miy father told ne as how that his
father told he, that when the great earthquake come to pass in
this here place in 1692, he warn't weaned; in which regard, his
mother, babby in arms, takes and stows herself away in church
just as the houses begins to topple. People thinks, in these parts,
that the churchest is safe, never mind what's a-happening out side. But this time it was no go, you see;'cause just after she
anri,he young'un gets inside quite safe, down goes the town,
church and all, right into the sea. Well, this, you know, begins
to look rather serious! but luck's all in this world, and, somehow
or the t'other, the babby was saved. You may laugh, if you like.
Why, if what I am a-telling of you warn't true, how could I be
here? I should like to know that,'specially as that poor, tender, innocent babby was my old grandfather. Now, my bo's, I'm
quite sure that our killick* is hooked under the dientical churchporch which it was the place my great-grandmother goes into.
And that's the reason we can't get her out of the ground. What
do you grin at, you lubbers? In course, I means the killick, and
not my great-grandmother. You may heave at her as long as
you like, but she'll never come up no more.t"
Shortly after, the "Lump," or dock-yard lighter, came alongside, and seized hold of the brig's chain with its iron claws.
* Anchor.
t This singular and almost incredible oral testimony corroborates, in
a striking manner, the written accounts of the great earthquake at Port
Royal, and would seem to be warranted by the known veracity and steadiness of the old sailor, a man of great a,ge.
205 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
Still, for a considerable time, the anchor remained immovable;
and the belief of all on board in the positive assertion of the
old tar was confirmed. The anchor must have got foul of the
church, there could be no doubt of it. Horrible sacrilege! But
whether the church was most in danger, or the killick, was a
matter of speculation, which probably gave rise to a warm controversy.
At last, the anchor gradually yielded to the vast power of the
mooring lighter, and came slowly up to the bows.
A singular spectacle now presented itself. Three large anchors were entwined, as it were, in each other's embraces. This,
at any rate, looked friendly. One of them was partly fused as
if from the action of fire. 
So singular a discovery caused much interest and speculation
at the time. The old archives of the dock-yard were industriously inspected; but nothing was ascertained worthy of note
from any credible authority. A story; nevertheless, became current that the anchors were part of the remnant of a prize
captured by Benbow, and accidentally burnt.
As the sea-breeze had now set in furiously, the departure of
the vessel was put off till the following day. When, however,
the morning dawned, and the expected land-wind failed to arrive,
the brig, anxious to get away, shipped her sweeps (eighteen long
oars, five men to each), and pulled merrily through the southern
passage.
Perched high on her wares, Dolly Johnson, the famous burnboat woman, accompanied the vessel, being towed alongside.
This black Amazon gloried in possession of a canoe forty feet
long, and barely two wide. Ranged round her were calabashes
filled with eggs, yams, fried fish, and tropical vegetables, including pines. avocado-pears, and ochres.
"Tank heben, my sweet son," exclaimed Dolly to the midshipman of the watch, "no nasty doctor" (a particular sea
206 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
breeze so called) "come dis morning to mnash up poor nigger
omen canoe."
" Have a care Dolly, my dear," replied the youngster, "have
a care; the doctor is coming down  sharp.   Remember  the
nigger song:
'0 Miss Rosee, hab a care of de Jumbo,
Him prickee de conscience like jigger in um bumbo.'"
"What for you speak like dat to rile, bucra?" interrogated
Dolly.  "You robber, teaf, and hangman too."
Now, although poor Dolly was very irate at the youngster's
banter, she had her weather-eye wide open, and was probably
conscious of a certain change in the air caused by the approaching sea-breeze.   This premonition of the coming wind is not
perceptible except by the natives, or by those who have long
resided in the West Indies. The author was much surprised at
an instance of this kind while sitting after breakfast one morning
and conversing with an invalid lady who had lived many years
in tropical islands. In the midst of the discourse, she suddenly
started from the sofa, and exclaimed:
"Ha, it is coming!"
"And pray," answered her companion, " what may be coming?"
"Why, the sea-breeze, to be sure; can't you feel it?"
"Feel it!" echoed he; "why, the thermometer is above 100.
My clothes cling to my frame as if they would stifle me. I
seem to sit in an oven.  Depend on it, there is not the slightest
symptom of the trade-wind."
In a few minutes, however, the refreshing rush of pure air was
evident enough: there was no mistaking it.
To return to the brig o:-every one on board was, in a short
time, aware of the proximity of the breeze, symptoms of which
grew stronger and stronger every minute.
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CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
"Let go de tow-rope, you cussed nifgger!" exclaimed Dolly to
a negro who was assisting her in navigating the canoe, and who
was only a shade or two less black than herself. " Don't you
see de man-o'-war bucra makee de sail!"
This was true enough; all hands in the brig were employed in
preparing to spread the canvas. In a few minutes, the sails
were loosed and set, and the yards braced sharp up on port tack.
Before poor Dolly's boat could be cleared from the ship's side,
the breeze, in a heavy squall, struck the vessel. So strong and
sudden was the wind, that, in spite of letting fly every thing,
the brig heeled so much that the lee-port sills were under water.
Impelled by the sudden gale, the vessel dashed madly onward.
Alas for poor Dolly! Her "cussed nigger," an infirm old man,
had failed to loose the long and narrow canoe from the brig's
side. It was, indeed, a frightful thing to see this cockle-shell
dragged through the water with such dangerous speed; and to
aggravate the peril, the canoe had been fastened to the lowest of
the gangway side-steps, now under water from the vessel's inclination. Aid from the ship was, for the moment impossible;
and it appeared inevitable that the unlucky negress would be
towed under water. At this critical moment, Dolly sprang forward, knocked her lubberly nigger off his seat, and severed
the distended tow-rope with a single cut of her knife.   This
saved them both.
The last thing seen of them, as the vessel bore rapidly away
along the coast of Jamaica for her destination, was Dolly with
one hand steering her canoe, now under a snug lug-sail, and
heartily thrashing her "cussed nigger" with the other.
On went the brig, studding-sails low and aloft. Gradually,
the wind felt lighter as she approached the American continent,
and at length, when just in sight of the high land of Porto Bello,
subsided to a mere whisper. This lull was succeeded by rain
which, during twelve hours, poured down without intermission.
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CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
Apparently, the deluge had returned, so overwhelming were the
torrents. Even the boats at the davits, with plugs withdrawn,
were overflowing.  A light air at length drew the brig along the
land, and she anchored at Chagres.
The whole country, where it could be seen, was covered with
a dense forest of most luxuriant foliage; but the view was often
concealed by opaque vapors which clung closely to the earth.
Even a vertical sun was not powerful enough to clear away this
dismal pall. Still, in spite of such repulsive appearances, there
was something indescribably grand in that vast solitude. The
current of the Chagre river rushing into the sea, formed a narrow
line of yellow, which, like a serpent, trailed its hideous and illomened length, writhing with numerous intervolutions to the
east or west along the coast, as guided and controlled by the
tides and currents.
From the excessive dampness caused by almost perpetual
rains, and the fact of the isothermal line of equatorial heat
passing very near this place, the principle of vegetation is perhaps
more powerfully developed here than in any other part of the
globe. The vessel was now in the zone of the constant precipitation of rainrl. Large bushes (twelve feet high) of the sensitive
tribe began to manifest consciousness of an advancing footstep,
though at five yards' distance. When closely approached, they
closed their leaves entirely without actual contact.
Perhaps some explanation of the continuous rains prevailing
in this place may be found in the remarkable fact of certain
intervals that occur in the chain of the Cordilleras or Andes,
where low and level land interrupts the usual mountain ridgethe "back bone," as it has been called of America.
No person who studies physical geography can help being
deeply interested by the singular conformation of the land at this
precise spot. It is as if nature had anticipated the wants of
human beings, and fashioned mother earth to meet the require
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CRiUISE OF THE FLAME.
ments of an advanced age.  At any rate, the singular adaptation
of ground about the Isthmus of Darien for a canal or railroad to
the Pacific Ocean is a great and remarkable fact.
In contrast, as it were, to the prodigious quantity of rain that
falls here, a singular phenomenon happens in the height of the
rainy season, of which it is impossible to offer any satisfactory
explanation. About the 20th of June, the rain suddenly ceases,
and the sun shines out during five or six days with dazzling
brightness. No instance is known of irregularity in this interruption of the season's course.
The mails having been carefully prepared, a large party of
pleasure-seekers, besides the officer in charge, proceeded in the
largest boat to examine the country. After a long pull, they
arrived at the entrance of the harbor. Passing close to the rocks
on the left, on which the Morro, or castle, of Chagres, is built,
they were much interested by perceiving numerous guanas
(lizards of gigantic dimensions). These hideous reptiles were
creeping slowly among the bushes and small trees that clung to
the slimy, unwholesome-looking rocks.
On rounding the point, the town of Chagres appeared, and
miserably disappointed expectation. It was situated on a cleared
space of perhaps one hundred acres, and consisted of a few houses
composed of reeds or wood, which presented a scattered and
squalid appearance. Having landed, the party was encountered
by three soldiers-the  custom-house guard.  Poor wretches!
Blighted by the filthy climate, they were the type of malaria.
Their heads were tightly bound with Madras kerchiefs, and they
were destitute of shoes or stockings. Instead of the independent
and saucy bearing of the revenue guardians of this country, they
begged, in whining accents, for tobacco.
As the party proceeded on their expedition, they came upon
dense woods of the rankest vegetation. These interminable
forests surrounded the plain on which stood the towi of Chagres.
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CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
Several narrow alleys were cut through the tangled overgrowth,
barely sufficient for men on foot to pass in Indian file. The
dense jungle, saturated with moisture, cast forth an offensive
vapor. With the lightest possible clothing, a serious oppression
was experienced, and the weight even of a fow]ing-piece was a
severe labor.  Having wandered some hours in pursuit of game,
the party was glad to return to the town, being quite exhausted
and not having had a single shot.
After somne rest, and a substantial luncheon, they proceeded to
examine the castle of Chagres. This fortress was built by Spain,
after Admiral Vernon's capture of Porto Bello in 1739, and
showed evident signs of lavish expense. Before the capture, the
fortress was insignificant.  The Spaniards relied, as Drake ex presses it, "upon the attachment of the natives, the strength of
the country, the excessive unhealthiness of the climate, and its
abundant fruits being very dangerous to be eaten for breeding of
diseases." The great progress of events, however, which wrested
these countries from the sway of Spain, entirely destroyed the importance of this stronghold, and the huge and massive fortress
was gradually wasting away under the destructive influence of
rank and climbing vegetation. What a satire on the extravagances of the old governments of Europe!  And now behold the
change! By a recent treaty between the great powers of the
world, namely, England, France, and America, all this regionthe region of the projected communication between the Atlantic
and Pacific Oceans-is forever a neutral ground, open to the
whole globe. Well may humanity be congratulated on this
benign and salutary change in the spirit of the times.
Balboa describes enthusiastically his first view of the South
Seas. Departing from Chagres with Indian guides (the Cimmarons), he thus describes the success of his'enterprise.
"When," says he, "they pointed out the height from which I
might see the other sea, so long looked for, and never seen before
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CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
of any man coming out of our world, approaching to the top of
the mountain, I commanded my men to stay, and went alone to
the summit as if to take the first possession thereof; where falling prostrate upon the ground and raising myself again upon my
knees, lifting up my eyes and hands toward Heaven, and directing my face toward the new-found South Sea, I poured forth my
humble and devout prayers before Almighty God, as a spiritual
sacrifice, with thanksgiving that to me was reserved this discovery." When he had said these words, he commanded his men
to raise certain heaps of stones, instead of altars, in token of possession.
What a magnificent moment must this have been for the old
Spanish adventurer! and with what sublime power and simplicity has he described it.
After a hasty survey of the castle, the party were glad to return to their vessel in the offing. Having been drenched with
continual rain, the miserable and scanty accommodations of a
small, old-fashioned brig were hailed with delight.
The wonderful improvement in the airiness of ships, and in
the conveniences and comforts allotted, in the modern system of
naval architecture, to seamen of all grades, is veryiconducive to
discipline and health. For this essential advantage, the Royal
Navy is undoubtedly indebted, in a great measure to Sir William
Symonds.
212 
CHAPTER II.
Want of Ventilation in the Brig-Myriads of Insects-Force of Habit  A living Snow-storm-Navy Bay-A Mangrove Swamp- Corallines and
Stinging Coral-Cocoa-nut Trees-Effect on the Ship's Company of
the excessive Rains-Violent Thunder-storm-Fishing Party-A dense
Jungle-Adventures of a solitary Midshipman in a tropical Forest Myriad Army of Ants-The Gekko-Huge Snake-An Alarm-Fugi tive Apes-A wild Feast-The Nautilus-Return to Chagres for the
Mails-A Spanish Lady and her Daughter as Passengers-The Lady's
Canoe and Crew-Projected  Theft and its Detection-The Yellow Fever
on Board-Prepare for a Trip to Halifax-Effect on the Crew of Change
of Climate-Approach to the stormy Region of the Gulf-stream-a
Hurricane-squall-A Night Storm-Jollity in the Midshipmen's Berth.
TIiE brig, whose cruise we have been contemplating, was so
confined below, being barely five feet between decks, that the
air was extremely vitiated. This will cause no astonishment
when it is considered that one hundred and twenty-five human
beings were stowed away in her.   No possible means of ventilation could be adopted except by hatchways. So oppressive an
atmosphere brought into life myriads of insects.  The beams
overhead and bulkheads were infested by a layer of cockroaches,
interspersed, by way of variety, with various other creeping
abominations.  If a glass containing liquid of any kind, was left
but for a moment, the surface was thickly coated with struggling
vermin. A favorite amusement in the Mids.' berth, was to pour
some rum in a soup-plate, set it on fire, and pass it slowly along
the beams and deck overhead. In a short time, these passes
were rewarded with a rich harvest of cockroaches. So loathsome 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
did this appear to strangers, who had never before seen any approach to a resemblance of one of the Egyptian plagues, that
scarcely a single visitor could be persuaded to remain on board.
The Mids., however, were so accustomed to their insect-guests,
that, as expressed by one of the party, "We should feel quite lost
without them."
Such is the force of habit and the love of company.
The following morning, still in pouring rain, the vessel weighed
and proceeded to Navy Bay, there to await the return mail from
the Pacific for Jamaica and England. A light air filled the
sails, and, for two hours, the sun shone forth with piercing rays.
The distance we had to run, about fifteen miles, was achieved in
three hours. During the whole of this passage, the air was
densely crowded with white butterflies, driven out to sea by the
land wind. It was impossible to estimate their number, as
neither one extremity nor the other of this living snow storm
could be traced. So remarkable a swarm of insects gives force
to the assertion of a celebrated naturalist who  says that "if
Nature had not formed numerous and powerful checks to this
insect,'its increase, in three years, would fill the world."
Navy Bay, now the site of busy preparation for the Darien
Railroad, was then unblest by the works of man. From Chagres
on the east, to Porto Bello on the west, not a single human
habitation could be seen.
The vessel had anchored a short distance within the eastern
arm of the Bay, in close vicinaity to a mangrove swamp. These
singular aquatic forests exhibit an apparent anomaly in nature.
The tree of which they are composed, grows to the height of
twenty-five or thirty feet, and flourishes chiefly on the margin of
rivers close to the sea, salt water being necessary for its nourishment. Many lateral branches project to a considerable length
from all sides of the trunk.  These  are thickly covered with
leaves of dark green. At a certain length, the weight of the
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CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
branch causes it to bend downward, when, attracted by the
water, a number of flexible shoots droop down, submerge themselves, and take root in the mud. Then, rising again, they, in
their turn, throw out ramifications, and thus extend the forest.
The interlacings of these shoots and branches form a coarse
net-work under water, of wonderful strength and durability.
The roots are covered with myriads of the family of crustacea
and mollusca. These again attract numerous fish to prey upon
them, forming altogether a reticulated marine-bower of surpassing interest and animation.
It is scarcely possible to behold such tangled, exuberant, and
ever re-producing vegetation as this, without thinking of Milton's
noble description of that multifarious tree, which
"In Malabar or Decan spreads her arms
Branching so broad and long, that in the ground
The bended twigs take root, and daughters grow
About the mother-tree, a pillar'd shade
High over-arch'd, and echoing walks between:
There oft the Indian herdsman, shunning heat,
Shelters in cool, and tends his pasturing herds
At loop-holes cut through thickest shade.*
* Nothing escapes the notice of wise poets. Milton could never have
seen the Indian fig-tree; but he found an account of it in a botanical book,
andl then gave it perennial vitality in his great epic. In his notes to
" Comus," Wharton, referring to the above passage from "Paradise Lost,"
tells us that the particulars which Milton has immortalized in his glorious
versification, are derived from  " Gerard's Herbal"  (edit. 1633).  "The
ends of the branches," says Gerard, speaking of the arched Indian fig-tree,
"hang downe and touch the ground, where they take roote and growe in
such sort that those twigs become great trees: and these being grown up
unto the like greatnesse, doe cast their branches or twiggy tendrels into
the earth, where they likewise take hold and roote; by means whereof it
cometh to passe, that of one tree is made a great wood or desert of trees,
which the Indians do use for coverture against the extreme heate of the sun.
Some likewise use them for pleasure, cutting downe by a direct line a long
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CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
Corallines, in large bunches like flowers, and of fantastic
shape, flourished in the vicinity. These corals were extracted
from the bottom by lowering a swab, the long tails of which became entangled among the delicate branches, and brought them
up in triumph. The specimens thus procured, contained several
species of the stinging coral, which furnished much amusement
to the uninitiated by the sharp pain inflicted by them when applied to the tongue. Thus, it would appear that even pain is
better than nothing. A sensation must be had, cost what it
may.
Beyond this swamp, or forest, a fringe of lofty and majestic
cocoa-nut trees, bending under their luscious burden, extended to
the east. Large boat-loads of the fragrant nuts were brought off,
as a supposed antiseptic, for the benefit of the crew. The use
of them, however, was prejudicial, instead of salutary; and the
health of the men was not improved until they got clear of the
West Indies.
The excessive rains and dampness of the climate, and the consequent inability on the part of officers to give active occupation
to the crew, had a sensible and deteriorating effect on the ship's
company. It was generally remarked that irritability of temper
was manifested even by those who had been noted for equanimity.
In fact, cheerfulness had vanished under the influence of lassitude caused by this filthy climate. In place of the usual jollity
in a man-of-war, a kind of superstitious lethargy appeared to
wualke, or as it were a vault, through the thickest part, from which also
they cut certaine loop-holes or windowes in some places, to the end to receive thereby the fresh coole aire that entreth thereat, as also for light that
they may see their cattell that feed thereby, &c. From which vault or close
tvalke doth rebound an admirable echo or answering voice. The first, or
mother, of this wood, is hard to be known from the children." -It will be
seen from this quotation that the great poet has availed himself of all the
prominent words of the old herbalist; but then how skillfully has he
epitomized the description, and given to it the graces of resonant verse.
216 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
have obtruded itself. This feeling was much aggravated by two
days' incessant down-pour. The hoods over the hatchways al though well calculated to keep out water, were equally successful
in excluding air.
The whole of a particular day had been passed in idleness and
sleep below. It can therefore be no matter of surprise that at
11 o'clock, P.MI., a sudden and violent thunder-storm should find
all hands wide awake, although sweltering in their hammocks
and vainly courting sleep. During about fifty minutes, the
terrific roaring of thunder shook the vessel to her centre. Vivid
and forked lightning pierced the very seams of the decks. In
the momentary lulls-lulls of most painful silence-suppressed
groans, as if of terror or remorse, were slightly audible. Conscience plays strange tricks with us all.  Sometimes it may
happen that a bad man, owing to an exquisitely healthy physique, may possess a false good conscience-a kind of aurora
borealis, which is but a mockery of the genuine dawn. - While,
on the other hand, certain it is, that bodily disturbance, such,
for example, as an attack of dyspepsia, will produce a false bad
conscience, and we are induced to mistake for a weight on the
mind, that which in reality is nothing more than a weight on
the stomach. 
In this latter predicament let us hope the ship's company
were placed: one half of them suffering under the malady of the
climate, were nervously affected, and the symptoms spread like
an epidemic among the rest. For the first time in their lives,
the blue-jackets felt sentimental, remorseful, and afraid.
As the bells struck eight, or midnight, the last distant rumbling of the thunder died away, and was succeeded by an intense calm. Suddenly a shrill, strange scream smote the silence;
it was repeated again and again; and louder and more frantic
grew the outcries, until the din was drowned by all hands rushing up to ascertain the cause, when it was discovered that a favor
K
217 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
ite cat in her nocturnal rounds had fallen overboard.  There she
was clinging to the ship's side, and holding on with her claws
stuck in between the upper sheet of the copper sheathing and the
wood-work. On lowering the bight of a rope, the poor animal
immediately put her fore-legs in, and was hauled safely on board.
This little incident broke the spell.
Parties were occasionally sent up the bay to explore, or to procure fish and game. On one of these excursions, they proceeded
to the head of the bay, where a small rivulet tempted them to
land and haul the seine, or net. So great was the quantity of
fish taken, that it was considered enough to supply the entire
ship's company.  A large fire was then kindled, and while some
remained to prepare a savory meal, others, well armed, advanced
into the interior, taking advantage of the rivulet's bed, which
afforded the only practicable path through the dense jungle.
After penetrating some distance, our adventurers felt their
curiosity excited by the prostrate trunk of a large tree. This
gigantic denizen of the forest had fallen across the bed of the
rivulet, forming a complete bridge. The part of the trunk where
it had been severed, appeared as though gnawed by some animal,
marks of teeth being visible all round the base.
Attracted by this singular circumstance, the party stopped
awhile to speculate on it. Some went so far as to assert that it
had been purposely felled by the instinct of wild animals, to
assist them in crossing the stream. Others ridiculed this opinion,
and declared that the marks of teeth were caused by herds of
peccary, a kind of fierce, small pig, prevalent hereabouts in large
droves, and which are in the habit of whetting their teeth against
wooden substances, in order to be ready for any chance encounter that might turn up.
After an animated discussion, the party went on in quest of
adventures. One of them, however, a Mid., feeling, exhausted
by the intense heat, determined to remain and await the return
218 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME. 
of his companions. Sitting on as dry and comfortable a seat as
could be procured, he deposited his gun close beside him, and
lighted a cigar.
Having enjoyed a few whiffs, he began to ruminate on the
strange scene before him. Surrounded by an intertangled tropi cal forest, the sun's rays were completely concealed from his
view. Close to his feet, his attention was attracted by a narrow
ribbon of vivid green, which wound along the earth beneath the
thick undergrowth. Examining this green ribbon attentively, he
thought he perceived a slight movement in it; and, on a closer
survey, he discovered it to be a train of large ants, each bearing
upright in its forceps a portion of green leaf.
"Where the deuce does this road lead?" exclaimed he.  "May
I be hanged, without a drop of grog, if I don't explore this popu lous district."'
Picking up his gun, and drawing his case-knife to cut away
the tendrils and claspers of the numerous climbing plants which
impeded his path, he followed the curious "ant-road."  This,
however, was no joke.   Sometimes, crawling on all fours, he
became so entangled by the supplejack withies, that he could
hardly clear one arm to free the other with his knife. Again,
when the absence of underwood allowed a little more space, he
was obstructed by the vast and prostrate trunk of a tree of countless age. With a spring and a chuckle, he was resolved to surmount this obstruction; but his meditated triumph was baffled.
The tree, though looking sound as when it flourished in its
prime, was decomposed, and its treacherous appearance proved a
trap into which our middy sank to his arm-pits in a cloud of
choking dust. Hitherto, every thing appeared to be what it was
not: it was a place of grim delusions-a valley of shadows.
In spite of these bewildering discouragements, he persevered
three hundred yards farther.  Being now quite worn out by the
severe labor, he sat down beside the ant-track. To his astonish
219 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
ment, the myriad army had not yet passed. On they came ill
one seemingly interminable stream; all with similar burdens,
and all traveling in one direction. The portions of leaf they catried varied in size, from a pea to nearly half-a-crown. The disburdened ants, returning in the opposite direction, wound their
way, so as not to incommode their laden brethren.
Just as he was preparing to return, our adventurer suddenly
heard a sound so sharp and clear and close, that he interpreted
it into a strange warning. A green lizard, about a foot long,
was creeping on a branch within three feet of his head. With a
prolonged hiss, it repeated, at short intervals, a sound resembling
the words "Gekko! gekko!" It then protruded its forked tongue
with sudden darts.  Little did our careless Mid. know his danger;
but he was fully acquainted with it some years after, when reading the work of that eminent naturalist, Count de la Cepede.
"Of all the oviparous quadrupeds," says that author, "the gekko,
so named from its cry, contains the deadliest poison. In this
lizard, whose species is but too prolific, a corrosive liquor is exalted to such a degree as to carry corruption and death to all
animals into which the active humor  may penetrate.   It is
about a foot long; its skin is of a pale sea-green, covered with
red spots.  The eyes are very large, starting out of the head
with long and narrow eye-balls.  Its teeth are so sharp as to
make an impression on steel. Each of its four legs has crooked
claws, armed at the end with nails. The creature is almost
entirely covered with warts, more or less prominent. Its bite is
certain death, unless the part is cut away or -burned."
"Hideous monster!" exclaimed our Mid.; "cut your lucky,
or look out for squalls."
"Gekko! gekko! gekko!" iterated the lizard, as if in reply,
and drawing himself stealthily toward the Mid.
"Incarnation of the Devil!" vociferated the latter, "put that
in your pipe and smoke it."
220 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
As he spoke, he pulled the trigger of his gun, and blew the
reptile to pieces.
The noise of the gun was followed by a sudden motion in the
bushes. Through the curtain of smoke which clung heavily
round, he perceived to his horror, a huge and slimy snake gliding
past within arm's length.
"Only let me get safe out of this beastly wood!" ejaculated
he. "If that infernal varmint had only caught me while hung
up in the tangle! O dear! I mustn't think of that.  I am sure,
though, if he had swallowed me, I should have given him the
stomach-ache. There's some comfort in the lex talionis."
With cocked gun, he carefully retraced his steps; and, after
a while, was delighted to find himself once more beside the
bridged rivulet. Taking a long draught of the tepid water, he
began anxiously to expect the return of his companions. The
brooding silence, nursed rather than disturbed by the streamlet
and the gentle buzz of insects and lizards, was harshly broken
by the sound of a rather distant shot.   Another, and then
another. Loud shouts now followed in quick succession, as of
men in wild excitement.
As the sounds were evidently approaching, our Middy crouched
down, with gun prepared for any game that might be driven
past. Suddenly his ears caught a noise as of the light crackling
of wood.  A moment more, and a shaggy gray head peered out
from the jungle, and a large ape leaped with nimble bounds,
over the bridge. Our Mid. was so startled by this apparition,
that he had not time to fire. Two more apes quickly followed
the first, and bounded over. The last of the three stopped short
when across, turned round with threatening gestures, and appeared inclined, in spite of the leveled gun, to return and attack
the midshipman. His finger was on the trigger, and the barrel
was aimed at the brute's heart. He was in the act of firing.
What, then, could cause him to lower his gun, burst into a loud
221 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
laugh, and exelaim," Go to the devil, you stupid old female
simrnia?"
The explanation is simple and natural enough. A little baby
ape had popped its queer, tiny visage over its mother's shoulders,
and magically softened our reefer's nature.   The shots now
sounded close at hand, and evidently changed the ape's intentions. She turned and fled; the little one, looking round and
gibbering with anger, shook its puny fist in impotent rage.
The party now returned to the beach, and feasted sumptuously
on fish, armadillos (some of which the sportsmen had shot), and
fragrant bowls of cocoa-nut milk.
Close to the beach where the ground was more open, one of
the ant-roads was followed several hundred yards in opposite
directions. No success attended this exploration; but the same
animated and busy scene met the eye at every part of the
route. Shortness of time, and the difficulty of following the
course, prevented the length of these singular roads being ascertained.
The shores of the bay were strewed with a species of nautilus.
Of these, the men picked up dozens, and took them on board to
their shipmates, as playthings might be carried home to children,
after a short absence.
a I say, Billy, my bo," exclaimed a great-whiskered Jack to
his chum, on getting afloat, "here's a hankercher choke full of
Portigee men-of-war for you."
"Portigee men-of-war be d-d," replied his friend. " What's
the use o' they? You can't eat'em."
After a stay of ten days, the vessel sailed back to Chagres for
the return mail to Jamaica and England.   Great  was the
delight of all hands when the flag, hoisted at the castle, gave
notice that the mails had arrived.   Boats were immediately
dispatched, and were shortly seen returning, accompanied by a
considerable freight. Two passengers-a Spanish lady and her
222 
CRUISE OF TIHE FLAMEJ.
daughter-came off in a canoe. Their anxiety to get forward to
St. Juan de Cuba, via Jamaica, was so great, that the captain,
out of compassion (to say nothing of gallantry), consented to take
them, any delay in such a climate as Chagres being equivalent
to a death warrant. The lady's canoe was well ballasted with
bags of pesos (dollars).  She did not appear in the least embarrassed by the absolute mnldity of her crew, composed of six blacks.
In sonie degree resembling the American backwoodsman, whose
summner-costume consisted of a shirt-collar and a pair of spurs,
the only articles of cldr)ess worn by-the negro canoe-men were a
kind of amulet or charm hanging from their necks, which they
appeared to regard with the most profound veneration, and a caseknife slung round their middles. On one of the seamen attempting to touch an amulet, he was repelled with fierce indignation
and horror by the miserable owner.
In spite of the extreme heat, these black men were shivering
with cold, though large drops, like hot rain, rolled off their bare
skins. Still they shivered and cowered, and seemed thankful
for the smallest shelter, especially if near the galley fire. So
relative is the feeling of heat and cold.
The vessel being prepared to sail immediately on receipt of
the mails and freight, some youngsters were amusing themselves
in the tops; and, while thus occupied, their attention was excited by the singular canoe alongside, and still more singular
cargo. In the bottom of the canoe they perceived, fore and aft,
a row of grass bags containing dollars. A suspicious movement
of one of the blacks caught the keen gaze of a youngster in the
top, who lying flat down, projected his eyes over the top rim,
and took note of all that passed. During this scrutiny, he saw
onie of the black fellows, while pretending to fumble at the side
of the canoe, gently pull out a small plug, causing a jet of water
to run into her. This manceuvre the negro concealed by his
leg. In a short time the bags of treasure were covered by water.
223 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
What game are the rascals up to now?" thought our sharpsighted youngster in the top.
Immediately after, another negro unslung his ease-knife from
his waist, affecting very industriously to pare his toe-nails; but
in performing this natural operation, which created no suspicion
in the vessel, he took care slily to rip open one of the dollar bags.
Closing his knife, he began to work the bag with his feet, now
nearly submerged.   As the canoe rolled, the "detective eyes"
aloft caught a momentary glimpse of bright new dollars, which
were gently oozing out of their place of confinement.
With a bounce of delight, our Mid. flew down the rigging, and,
touching his hat to the first lieutenant, explained what had happened. The process of hoisting in the treasure was instantly suspended; the niggers were bundled up on deck, and half a dozen
active fellows sent into the canoe to bail her out.   A hundred
eager eyes, now directed from every position that commanded a
view of the scene, were speedily gratified by the sight of a thick
layer of sparkling dollars. Several of the bags were already
tapped, and, had not a good look-out been kept from aloft, a
large sum would have been abstracted.
Immediately after this, the vessel weighed, and proceeded on
her trip to Jamaica. In consequence of the equatorial current
being adverse, vessels making this voyage are compelled to hug
the mainland of Central America, until a position is attained,
about Carthagena, sufficiently far to the eastward to make the
trade-wind favorable for crossing the Carribean Sea.  This is a
long and tedious part of the voyage, as light airs and calms are
prevalent on the coast of the mainland.
Soon after leaving Chagres, the yellow fever, in a mild form,
appeared on board, and attacked fresh victims every day. The
moment, however, a departure was made from this pestiferous
coast the disease readily yielded to medical treatment. Out of
one hundred and twenty-five men of whom the crew was com
224 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
posed, eighty were laid up at one time. The Spanish lady still
had excellent health; and, with her daughter, enjoyed numerous
"cigarros papillos." But, on her landing at Port Royal, she
was seized with the fever in its most malignant form, and was
carried off by it within two days of her landing. Every man of
the crew speedily recovered.
Great was the delight of all hands at receiving orders to prepare for a trip to Halifax, and the vessel was speedily on her
way there, vic Bermuda. The change of climate had a marvelous eflfect upon the health of the crew. On entering the Atlantic
through the Caycos passage, old and obstinate blains on the legs
and feet, healed up as if by magic, and the crew felt braced and
lively by so agreeable a change of climate. Calling at Bermuda to deliver dispatches, the vessel once more put her head
to the northward.
About ten, A.M., the yards were braced up to a strong breeze
from the west, and the ship darted forward like a hound slipped
from its leash. The whole day was fine and invigorating, not
betraying the slightest symptom of the heavy gale which was
soon to menace us. At the usual quarters in the evening, the
top-sails were double-reefed, and all made snug for a good night's
run. Just as this evolution was finished, a vessel was viewed
ahead, and speedily made out to be the packet for Bermuda,
now overdue ten days.
While the two vessels were in the act of exchanging numbers,
one of our Mids. was sent below to examine the barometer. Returning on deck with his report to the captain, he said he thought
the instrument must be out of order, as the quicksilver had fallen
so much. This report induced the captain to descend, and carefully note both barometer and simpiesometer. To his great surprise he found they had each sunk considerably. Coupling this
disturbance of the quicksilver with the locality we were now
approaching, namely, the stormy region of the gulf-stream, it
225
K* 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
became necessary to keep a sharp look-out. Accordingly, our
careful and prudent skipper immediately turned the hands up to
shorten sail.  Top-gallant yards and masts were quickly got on
deck, topsails close reefed, and mainsail furled.
Still all looked bright and clear.  At this time, half-past six,
r.M., the packet brig was two miles to windward, staggering
under a heavy press of canvas, her course being due south, ours
due north, the wind west, or fair for both. Numerous were the
gibes and sneers at the captain's "timidity," as it was called.
In truth, the contrast was so marked between the canvas carried by the two vessels, that, to those without responsibility,
undue caution seemed to be observed.
"Look at that little hooker," exclaimed one, "how she flies!
Why, she'll be at Bermuda to-morrow morning."
These words attracted the author's attention, and he looked
long and steadfastly at the small vessel. His was the last eye
that ever beheld her. A haze crept over the scene: the watch
was called, and the men off duty went below.
Suddenly, a sharp, clear voice was heard ringing through the
ship:  
"All hands trim sails!  Man the weather braces! Square
away the yards!"
Not one moment too soon was this mandate obeyed.  A  hurricane-squall had overtaken us from the south, right astern. The
vessel heeled violently over; the lee-hammock nettings were under water, and appeared to be flying-to against the helm. The
precautions before taken had now their reward; for, in a few
minutes. every sail was safely furled, except close-reefced topsails.
"What a pace she is going!" exclaimed the officer of the watch.
Heave the log."
The Mid. of the watch, in spite of the thorough drenching he
got in executing this order, made his report smilingly, and with
an air of triumph:
226 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
"Twelve and six, Sir."
From that time to this, the packet-brig has never been heard
of: The squall that came up astern of our vessel took her aback'
Thus perished the poor "Recruit."   This rough lesson was not
thrown away; the experience gained by it has saved several
lives.
As the evening wore on, dark and slate-colored clouds rose in
all directions. The air became sensibly colder, and a continuation of violent squalls swept furiously over the vessel. Still the
water remained quite warm, forming a striking contrast to the
coldness of the atmosphere.
"We are in for a night of it, I am quite sure of that," observed
the lieutenant of the first watch, as he came on deck to relieve
the other officer.  "It is awfully dark and black and dense.
Just wait a minute for my eyes to get used to it, before I relieve
you. "
impressive.  Flying furiously through the water, the yard-arms,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
outrun her watery pursuers.
Let us now descend into the midshipmen's berth.  Within
this miserable hole were crammed ten juvenile human being.
227 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
Regardless of the furious war of elements above, these thoughtless lads were eager for the arrival of their messmate from the
deck. He had promised them a long yarn. In anticipation of
this treat the table was spread with a dirty canvas cloth. A
bottle of rum peeped invitingly from the corner of a beaufet, and
each inhabitant of this dismal den tightly clasped his glass-a
necessary precaution, as the excessive motion of the vessel tossed
every unsecured article violently about.
"Now then," said one of the youngsters, "hurrah for a long
yarn!"
As he spoke, the berth-door was opened, and the mate walked
in. Casting his wet coat and boots on the steerage deck, he
waited the roll of the ship. Adroitly taking advantage of the
proper moment, he vaulted over the table, and seated himself
against the after bulk-head.  Filling a stiff" sou'-wester," he lifted the brimming glass to his lips.
"Here's luck, my lads," said he; "luck to us all!  And now
you shall have the discourse I promised."
228 
CHAPTER III.
THE GUNNERY-MATE'S YARN.
"WELL, my lads," continued the mate, "I am not much of
a hand at a yarn; but if you like to hear something new about
matters connected with gunnery, I shall have great pleasure in
communicating to you a few curious facts.
"It is impossible to deny that, of late years, our navy has improved more in the science and practice of gunnery, than in any
other branch of the service. But I think there is one kind of
projectiles, namely Congreve rockets, which are not sufficiently
appreciated. I was more confirmed in this opinion on reading
a report of the Select Committee of the House of Commons, on
the Steam Wavy.  The result of this report is that mercantile
steam-ships, of the size and strength necessary for the reception
of such guns as are in use in the royal navy, would be a most
valuable auxiliary force for the national defense.
"Now it is quite clear that none of the 1110 registered British
merchant-steamers, mentioned in the report, under four hundred
tons, are capable of carrying such guns as would render them
available in naval warfare.  There remain, therefore, one hun
dred and seventy-three steamers above that size. Deduct at leas+
twenty per cent., for old and useless vesssels, and barely one
hundred and forty are left. In case of war most of these vessels
would run their passages as usual, fighting their way. The
coasts of England would consequently still remain under the
guardianship of the war-vessels.  Now, it is quite certain that 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
this latter force would be utterly insufficient to protect all the
harbors on the coast of England. I have considered this subject
well, and believe that a position of perfect safety may be achieved
by arming the smaller vessels of the steam mercantile marine
with Congreve rockets.
"These projectiles, and the arrangement of their fittings, are in
a very different state from what they were in the late war. At
Walcheren, the officers who managed the rocket department had
their clothes burnt from their persons by the back-fire. This
incident, coupled with the unwillingness of many naval officers
of high rank to admit their efficiency, has created a prejudice
against their use.
"When Lord Collingwood was first offered the use of Congreve rockets by the Admiralty of the day, his answer was charaeterized more by prejudice than by reason; he decried the new
invention, contemptuously calling them'useless sky-rockets.'
Even at the present day very few officers are acquainted with
their power, or have sufficient experience in their management,
to make them effective. A very glaring ease happened lately in
the royal navy. A steam-vessel, fitted with rocket tubes, was
being prepared for action. The men, not understanding the use
of the little bag of bursting-powder intended to fill the shell at
the end of the rocket, employed it in priming the rocket; cnsequently, when the fuse was applied, a loud explosion ensued,
bursting the tube, knocking down the sapient gunners instead
of the enemy, and blowing the rocket overboard. This lubberly
occurrence was loudly trumpeted forth as an instance of the
danger and uncertainty of Congreve rockets.
'"Having given you an instance of prejudice in former, and
of absolute ignorance in later times, I will now ca]l your attention to the most remarkable instances of the efficiency of the
missiles in question, as recently exhibited. First, the destruction
of the Chinese Admiral's junk by a rocket fired from the' Ne
230 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME. 
mesis;' and, secondly, the havoc inflicted by the rocket-battery
at San Lorenzo, in the Parana. The latter application of rockets
was considered by Sir Charles Hotham as mainly conducive to
the safe passage of the convoy past the batteries. He characterized it in his official dispatch, as of' essential service.'   1
consider these as the most effective employments of the Congreve
rocket that have ever taken place.
"That great military authority, Marmont, Duc de Raguse,
speaks in high terms of these projectiles. In his work entitled
'Esprit des Institutions Militaires,' he thus expresses himself:
'I think the Congreve rocket is destined to effect, in the field
and in infantry contests, an alteration as extensive as that which
in naval warfare and coast defense may be expected from hollow
shot, and the Paixhan guns. The first campaign in which Austria may be engaged, is likely to exhibit an extensive use of the
rocket.'
"Now, my lads, I am of opinion that the Marshal, though
undoubtedly a man well versed in the science of war, did not
perceive, with a nautical eye, the most important service to be
derived from rockets. Before I enlarge on this, let us overhaul
the table of the mercantile marine. This is necessary, as my argument is mainly founded on the statistics exhibited in it. This
table embraces only such steam-vessels as the parliamentary committee considers incapable of carrying guns sufficiently
heavy to act in offensive warfare. It will be well to bear this
in mind.
e
PORT.                             NO.
London................................. 243
Boston...............................      1
Bridgewater................................ 1
Bristol...............................    27
Caernarvon............................    1
Carried Forward......... 273
231
ToNil.&Gr,.-.
35,460
1 79
1 66
3,015
176
38,796 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
PORT             O. NO.
Brought Forward..................... 273
Cardiff................................ 7
Carlisle...............................   2
Chepstow.............................   3
Chester..............................    6
Clay.................................   1
Dartmouth............................   1
Dover.-.................................. 2
Falmouth...................1
Feversham............................   1
Gainsborough............................. 2
Gloucester................................  3
Goole................................    5
Grimsby..............................            1
Hartlepool.............................   3
Hull.................................  21
Harwich.............................    1,
Ipswich..............................       4
Lancaster..............................3   *
Liverpool.............................  69
Lynn................................             3
Llanelly..............................         2
Maryport............................   1
Newcastle..............................1 63
Newport..............................   2
Plymouth................................ 5
Poole................................    1
Portsmouth............................   4
Preston...............................   9
Pwllhelly.............................          1
Ramsgate...............................,
Rochester..............................  4
Runcorn................................1 
St. Ives...............................  4
Southampton............................ 25
Shields...............................  27
Stockton..............................  25
Sunderland.............................  28
Carried Forward.......... 719
232
TONNAGE.
38,796
532
434
191
705
50
25
i95
'81
28
184
295
467
81
183
3,070
294
344
465
10,493
1 438
206
54
9,124
160
568
130
290
1,260
115
-1,150
0 296
143
1,000
4,432
1,576
1,744
1,541
81 130 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME. 
PORT.
Brought Forward.....................
Swansea..............................
Weymouth............................
Whitby...............................
Whitehaven...........................
Wisbeach.............................
Yarmouth.............................
Aberdeen.............................
Alloa................................        
Anstruther............................
Ayr..................................       
Campbeltoun.........................
Dundee...............................
Glasgow.............................
Grangemouth..........................
Greenock..............................
Inverness.............................
Irvine...............................
Kirkaldy..............................
Kirkwall..............................
Leith................................
Montrose.............................
Perth................................
Port Glasgow.........................
Be]fast.............................
Cork.................................
Dublin...............................
Dundalk..............................
Londonderry...........................
Newry...............................
Sligo..................................
Waterford..............................
Wexford...............................
Drogheda..............................
Total..........................
Deduct twenty per cent..........
Remains.....................
233
No.
719
1 1
1
1
1 3
4
10
7
3
2
1
2
7
65
3
4
1
1
2
1
18
1  1
1
6
5
13
27
1
3
-I
1
9
1
2
937
187
750
ToNriAGE.
81,130
1,141
120
180
587
270
1,169
1,017
398
208
95
462
680
10,952
157
702
51
134
298
182
2,644
140
49
787
620
1,852
6,593
309,
846
350
74
2,614
362
382
117,455
23,491
93,954 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
"We have here a list of seven hundred and fifty steamers, of
all sizes up to four hundred tons, which, in the Parliamentary
Report, are condemned as useless. The tonnage amounts to
about ninety-four thousand tons,'and the vessels are distributed
in the very places required, that is to say, at the ports all round
the coasts of Great Britain.
"This force, properly fitted, can be made so formidable, that I
advisedly assert, it will be more than a match for the largest
fleets the world could muster to attack this country."
"Draw it mild, old chap," interposed a Mid., "that's rather
a tough'un!"
"Well," replied the mate, "it looks so, I confess, at first sight;
but just hear what I have to say. Suppose, then, we take one
of these little steamers, and estimate the effect, if armed according to my ideas.  Say, at a venture,'Waterman, No. 1,' a vessel which, together with her class, is well known on the Thames
above bridge. She is one hundred and five feet long, and thirteen feet five inches beamr. Place in her, fore and aft amidship,
as many of the new circular pivot rocket-tubes as she will
carry., As the newly-invented rockets are projected without
sticks or poles, a distance of six feet apart would be ample for
the battery. This vessel, therefore, one hundred and five feet
long, could carry seventeen tubes, leaving three feet to spare.
Should these tubes' be skillfully and quickly handled, five discharges from each can be made in one minute, being eighty-five
in that very short space of time, or four hundred and twentyfive in five minutes!
"Two men could manage the tube on deck easily.   The great
difficulty would be a sufficient supply of ammunition, which, however, might be obviated by a man stationed below to each tube,
and employed thrusting up rockets, through a round hole in the
deck, as fast as wanted. By these means one of the little riverboats could fire at a greater rate than the largest ship in the world.
234 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME. 
"I may have underrated the space (six feet) required by the
rocket-tubes. At any rate, half the number could be easily
placed; and even this-great diminution would still give us the
vast amount of forty-two and a half a minute. This, however,
is an exaggerated reduction. I merely wish to be within the
mark.
"Suppose, then, with'Waterman, No. 1,' thus armed. I could
manage to get under a line-of-battle ship's stern, at night or in a
fog. What would be the consequence? why, before she could
be clear for action-men dressed and all-say five minutes, I
should have raked her with four hundred and twenty-five discharges. As I should take good care to be within a few yards,
the chances are that every shot would tell. What sort of plight
would she be in then? Four hundred and twenty-five shots in
one vessel, is more than has yet been received, without destruction, by any ship.
"With a man-of-war screw-steamer, one hundred and eight
feet long, you may fairly say the effect would be still greater.
Let us compare a vessel of this description with a crack steamer
of the present, day. The first ship of this kind that I can call to
mind as being in admirable order and discipline-in fact, the
beau-ideal of what a steamer ought to be-is the'Devastation,'
lately commanded by Captain Henry. She is one hundred and
eighty feet long, carries two eighty-four and four thirty-two
pounder guns, and can fight four guns on the broadside.
"Let us now suppose this almost perfect steamer to meet our
rocket-screw. We will imagine them to commence firing at the
same moment. The' Devastation' would fire her four broadside
guns at the rate of one broadside in two minutes. This would
give, at the end of six minutes, twelve shots.  Now  let us see
what the rocket screw would have done in the same time. She
mounts, we will say, twenty-eight rocket-tubes, taking rather
less room than one to six feet.  Multiply twenty-eight by five,
235 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
the number of discharges from each tube in a minute, and six
minutes will give the aggregate of eight hundred and forty
rockets in the hull of her antagonist. -Pray how would poor
'Devastation' feel after this dose?" 
"Hold hard, old chap!" interrupted a youngster.  "Your
circular tubes would become red-hot after a few discharges."
"Of course they would," replied the mate.   "But there would
be plenty of water to cool them, wouldn't there, spoony? Of
one thing the Ordnance Department must be careful; and that is,
to have the tubes made entirely, of metal. Should any wood, or
other inflammable substance be present, it will of course burn
like tinder after a dozen discharges.* When I commanded a
rocket battery, I found, after about a dozen discharges, that the
tubes were red-hot. Some stupid gunners had welded one of
the tubes with spun yarn, which burned so furiously that the
tube was disabled for several minutes. This might have been a
serious matter, as I was then covering a large convoy of merchant-vessels with only six tubes, firing at the rate of forty a
minute."
"What an awful fire, to be sure!" exclaimed the youngster.
"What effect had it on the enemy?"
"The effect," answered the mate, "was prodigious.   The
enemy appeared quite paralyzed. And well he might, with such
a deadly shower."
"I wonder," observed the assistant surgeon, "why the Admiralty has not tried this scheme."
"It is not for want of knowledge," replied the mate.  "I was
so impressed with its importance, that I was simple enough to
put it on paper, and forward it to head-quarters, marked' Private
and Confidential.'"
* We are informed that an experimental metal tube is stowed away in
the "Excellent." Some squabble between the Admiralty and the patentee
preventing this useful invention being properly tested.
236 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
"Never call me a spoony again, after that," said the youngster
who had previously ventured a remark or two.  "But pray what
answer did you receive?"
"Why, none at all," answered the mate; "although I fished
out that every thing was being prepared exactly as I had suggested."
"You don't really mean to say," inquired the youngster, "that
you never received any answer, gentle or simple?"
"None at all, I assure you," iterated the mate.  "I suppose
the Ordnance will get the credit of it when it comes out, or somebody else."
"Well," remarked the assistant surgeon,' I am no judge of
these matters; but your account appears so plausible, that I am
convinced it should be tried."
"And if it succeeds," suggested the youngster, "you ought
immediately to be promoted, and appointed to a screw-steamer
to carry out your plan. Pray may I ask," continued he, "what
prospects have you in the service?" 
'Why," replied the mate, " I have little or no interest, and
therefore do not expect any other fate than to remain on half-pay
ashore during the remainder of my life."
"What a dreadful existence for an active fellow like you!"
exclaimed the assistant surgeon.  "Your mind will prey upon
itself. You will either take to literary pursuits, or go mad."
"Neither," returned the mate.   "I have ample means.  If
the service, my great ambition, should be closed against me, I
shall take my children to the Colonies, or, what I consider a
much better field for activity, capital, and intelligence, the United
States of America, that great country, so famous for its common
sense and liberality of opinion."
"I can not help saying," observed the assistant surgeon, " that
as a family man myself, I quite agree in your view of the matter.
If, with your advantages of money and connection, with a high
237 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
character as a naval officer united to an ardent love of your profession-if you, I say, see no prospect in the navy, but a miserable half-pay, and a realization of the result of'hope deferred,'
what, on earth, will be the prospect of your children fifteen years
hence?  Go, my friend, go, by all means, to America or the
Colonies. In either of those lands, you will have a much better
chance of happiness for yourself and family."
The gale now roared with increased fury.   The hatchways
being battened down, the atmosphere of our berth was not only
oppressive but nauseous to a loathsome degree. Still the jolly
party there crammed together, were as light-hearted and reckless as if they had continued in the stagnant calm of Port
Royal harbor.  "Every man to his glass!" was the universal
shout "Steward! bring in more grog and biscuits.   We will have
the remainder of the rocket-yarn, if we founder in the midst of
it."
At this moment, a loud and confused sound was heard on
deck, followed by the trampling of feet.  "Never mind that bobbery."' exclaimed a voice.  "I know what it is; I always predicted it. The main topsail is blown clean out of the boltropes."
This prophetic announcement was immediately confirmed,
accompanied by the additional intelligence that both quarterboats were washed away.
", Now, then, old fellow," said the youngster, "fire away!
Let us hear the end of your yarn."
"Willingly," replied the mate.   "Let us' hark back' to our
subject. Were we, according to the system I have mentioned,
to avail ourselves of the little steamers so summarily dismissed
by the report, what would be the result? Sufficiently startling
to convince the most sanguine and powerful enemy that his
utmost efforts to invade this country would be worse than idle.
It is considerably under the mark to take six inches length for
238 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME. 
every ton of measurement. Ninety-four thousand tons of steam shipping would therefore be equal to a space of steamer's deck
forty-seven thousand feet long. This length, divided by six, will
give the number of rocket-tubes capable of being mounted, that
is, nearly eight thousand rockets, equal to a fire of forty thousand
discharges a minute.
"Let us take, for example, the twenty-four vessels of the
Waterman and Citizen Companies, and arm them in the manner
above stated. What fleet would be safe against their attack
either at sea or in harbor? Who that has been at night-quarters
in a line-of-battle ship has not felt the disadvantage of being ex posed to the fire of any thing not boxed up, as it were, and con fined in its movements? What gallant admiral, with the best
organized fleet in the world under his command, could sleep
soundly, if he knew these twenty-four little steamers were prowling about within five hundred miles? What harbor in Europe
would be safe? what dockyard or arsenal? What precaution
could keep any port clear of some part of this hornet's nest of
stingers?  The most vigilant look-out might be overcome by a
squall, a passing mist, or a fog.
"As for blockading an enemy's port, such as the old warofficers are so fond of yarning about, that would be preposterous.
No blockading fleet of any force, more particularly sailing vessels,
could lie in safety within twelve hours' run of- any port whence
these steamers could emerge during the night. No doubt all the
rocket steamers would not escape; a well-directed shot would be
sufficient to destroy any one of them. Let me ask, however, if
the naval officers of England would not gladly run the chance.
Why, for such a service as this, the greatest desire and anxiety
would be manifested.   Conceive the delight of getting alongside
a huge three-decker at anchor. The very idea of a small and
miserable mite, a London-bridge' Cricket,' a wafter of halfpenny
passengers, grappling on equal terms, and any chance of success
239 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
with a huge leviathan of one hundred and twenty guns, would
stimulate the imagination of any lover of enterprise.
"Now, my hearties, I will just call your attention to the prodigious power which regularly prepared men-of-war screw steamers would have, if built for this purpose. I feel so convinced on
this subject, that if I had command of one of these vessels, I
would not hesitate to attack any ship that swims. Not, mind
you, as Nelson attacked the French fleet at Trafalgar, for, in the
present day, that method of assault would be fatal.
"To conclude, my lads, the management of the navy must be
thoroughly remodeled. We must have a permanent Board of
Admiralty; some common-sense arrangement, which will at
once, and forever, put an end to parliamentary pitchforking into
promotion and emolument. This abuse has hitherto been the
greatest bane of the royal navy. If these old customs are not
modified, if new tactics are not thoroughly examined and tried,
if we do not keep pace with the rapid march of the times in the
present age, we shall, in the event of another great war, &c., &c.,
&e. Now let us turn in; I have the morning watch." 
This closed the sitting, and all the mess scrambled into hammocks.
During the whole night the brig made good progress to the
northward. This favorable run continued during three days;
at the end of which time we were, by reckoning, on the tail of
one of the lesser banks of Newfoundland. The gale had moderated so considerably, that the usual promenaders of the quarterdeck (the idlers) were enjoying their favorite exercise, which had
been so long interrupted.
On approaching the coast of Nova Scotia, dense fogs prevailed.
These, together with the impossibility of taking observations,
caused great uncertainty as to the vessel's position. She was
now, by dead reckoning, close to the land, in forty fathoms water.
As it is usual in these blinding fogs to signalize the shore by
240 
CRUISE OF THiE FLAME.
means of cannon, a thirty-two-pounder was fired. All hands
were now on the alert, every man listening attentively for an
answer. The brig was lying-to in a light air, and the sea was
as smooth as glass. During a brief interval, the only sound that
met our ears was the fall of large drops of moisture, condensed on
the shrouds and rigging. After a few minutes of earnest attention, a distant boom was heard in reply.
"That's the shore gun!" was the universal exclamation.
"Let them have another!" ejaculated the captain.
The gun was once more loaded and run out, and again opened
its hoarse throat to its mate ashore.  This was replied to immediately. Being now tolerably certain of the brig's position, the
order was given, "Hands make sail!  Topmen aloft, and loose
top-gallant sails!  Overhaul the gear of courses!  Brace up the
main yard!"
In a moment the brig was sliding through the thick shroud of
fog in the direction indicated by the answering gun from the
land.
"How oppressive, thick, and heavy, is this fog!" exclaimed
the surgeon.   " To make use of a Mid's. expression, you might
cut it with a hatchet."
"It is so, indeed," observed the purser.  "Why, one can not
make out the people on the forecastle."
The brig seemed to grope its way onward like a blind man.
As, however, the roaring of the port gun (increasing in strength)
indicated our approach to the iron-bound coast of Nova Scotia,
we felt confident in our course, though external objects were
thickly vailed from sight. Louder and louder grew the reports,
till, at length, one explosion, sounding almost overhead, caused
a sensible vibration in the brig.
Suddenly, as if by magic, the whole scene changed, as the
bowsprit and forecastle emerged from the bank of fog, and drew
out into bright and clear sunshine. In a moment more the
Ix
241 
CRUISE OF THE FLAME.
vessel was clear, as if in a new world. It is impossible to describe the enchantment of this sudden and unexpected change.
Astern, like a huge and dingy cliff, loomed the fog bank which
had so long enveloped the brig. Even the breeze appeared to
sympathize with the exhilaration of the crew, and freshen considerably.
Our vessel now darted forward with great speed, quickly gained the entrance to Halifax harbor, and was soon comfortably
anchored off the dockyard of that port.
242 
HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
CHAPTER I.
Blockading Squadron off Alexandria-The Egyptian Fleet-A longed-for
" Scrimmage" -Disappointment-Commotion in the Midshipmen's Berth
-Attack on the Caterer-Turbulent Discussion-Signal to Quarters  Radical Meeting-The Caterer Deposed-Anarchy-Alexandria and
Pompey's Pillar-Monopolizing System of the Pasha-iHer Majesty's
Ship "Medea"-A Steamer a-fire-Explosion of a Shell-Disastrous
Consequences-The Syrian Gale-Casualties.
BEAUTIFUL to behold was the English blockading squadron off
Alexandria in November,1840. During several weeks six huge
two-deckers "patrolled" before the entrance of this classic port.
The weather was settled and delightful-the sea as smooth as
a sylvan lake.
The Egyptian fleet, outnumbering our blockading ships threefold, apparently made every preparation to come out and force
the blockade-a manifestation which sometimes proceeded so far
that their royals were set and head-yards braced for casting.
This looked as if the enemy were really in earnest, and caused
most intense anxiety on our part for the fulfillment of what was
thus threatened. Snuffing-up with delight the gentle breeze
blowing directly out of port, we hugged closely and in compact
line of battle, the hostile shores bristling with batteries. 
244     HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
Thousands of eyes from the blockading ships were directed
toward the enemy's movements. In that magnificent squadron
there was not one man who would not joyfully have given a
year's pay to insure the longed-for" scrimmage." But it was not
to be: Mehemet Ali had too great a regard for the safety of his
ill-gotten fleet; and all his threatening preparations ended in
" moonshine."
Our expectation of a brush with the Egyptians being thus
disappointed, an unusual portion of ill-humor prevailed afloat;
and, as if no additional cause for grumbling should be lacked,
our fresh provisions were exhausted by the prolongation of the
blockade. We had, consequently, a dreary prospect of " short
commons and ennui."
In this state of things, not much surprise was felt at hearing
that the midshipmen's berth in the        had been the scene of
a violent commotion on the part of the "young gentlemen," who
were aghast on finding one day nothing to cover their ample
table but four scanty dishes of salt horse. Midshipmen are not,
in general, the most patient or reasonable of human beings; and,
on this occasion, the anger of the youngsters in question was unbounded, and could scarcely find adequate vent, although the
maledictions leveled against the caterer (who unfortunately for
himself, was a civilian) were exceedingly ingenious in their
variety, including some choice specimens of novel vituperation,
in the contrivance of which sailors surpass every class of men on
earth.
When downright hunger is the subject of debate, the suggestions of reason are faint indeed. The unfortunate caterer tried
to justify his administration by pleading necessity, and by urging
every other argument dictated by good sense and prudence, and
warranted by truth.  All was of no avail: borne down by the
clamor of the middies, he took refuge in the sick-bay, followed
by a general shout of "Down with the doctor's mate!"  No 
HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS
starving caterer! Hurrah for a radical mess! Republics forever!"
Having thus compelled the flight of jesculapius the younger,
a very turbulent discussion took place in the gun-room. Many
orators rose at once-different schemes were simultaneously proposed-all were speakers and no hearers-every one declaimed
with peculiar nautical eloquence, but no one would listen; and
the hubbub and the diii were bewildering:
"Forthwith a hideous gabble rises loud
Among the speakers; each to other calls,
Not understood; till hoarse, and all in rage,
As mock'd, they storm."
MILTON.
Suddenly, however, the well-known signal to quarters was
heard. This, in an instant, stilled the tumult. There was a
quick rush to the door; all strove and scuffled to get rapidly to
their stations in different parts of the vessel; and, in an incredibly short time, the ship, a huge eighty, was cleared as if for
action. Her magnificent lower deck showed to great advantage a
formidable row of sixty-eight and thirty-two pound guns, manned
by a crew in a perfect state of discipline.  Well might an Englishman be proud of that ship, and of her efficiency.   She
was a counterpart in order and discipline of nearly every one
of the Mediterranean fleet, which, at that time, consisted of
seventeen sail of the line. Never before had England so wellequipped and efficient a fleet at sea.
After quarters, a meeting of the radical portion of mates and
Mids. was held on the fore part of the main-deck, to take into
consideration what measures should be adopted toward a reform
of the mess.  As a preliminary, it was put to the vote that "the
doctor's mate be deposed."
This was carried by acclamation; but so wide was the difference of opinion touching the other proposed resolutions, that none
245 
246     HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
of them were approved, and not even a successor was named to
the former caterer. Nothing, therefore, could ensue but perfect
independence and liberty, delightfully evidenced the next time
the mess sat down to dinner, when potatoes, books, junks of salt
horse, &c., did duty as missiles, and were hurled across the table
from the hand of one to the head of another, as a pleasant
and graceful fancy might dictate. Every member of the company seemed resolved, by exhibiting his individual proficiency,
to justify the old injunction —" Go to sea and. learn manners."
All this was vastly agreeable for a time, until it was discovered that the viands were frequently waylaid on their road to the
gun-room dinner-table; and then it was suspected that "radical
institutions," however specious in their origin, might possibly not
promote the comfort of communities, and that disorder, however
fascinating in itself, was not altogether free from inconveniences.
Be this as it may, it is certain that the poor republican middies
were half starved, and that their democratic leaders grew proportionately plump.
We shall see by-and-by that the old march from rebellion to
despotism was repeated in the instance before us. At present,
however, other matters claim our attention.
One morning the squadron in line of battle was standing to
the northward. Longing eyes were fixed on the classic city of
Alexandria, about five miles under the lee. Pompey's Pillar
(improperly thus called), defying the wear of ages, attracted the
curiosity and admiration of officers and men. The next conspicous object which excited the attention of the numerous
lookers-on in the squadron was the Schuna, or range of warehouses for the reception of the surplus produce of Egypt.
According to the Pasha's monopolizing system, the entire
growth of the country comes into his hands at prices fixed by
himself, and the grower is not permitted to resort to other
markets. Not only does this restriction apply to the commodi 
HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
ties of Egypt, but to those of adjacent countries wherever the
Pasha's influence extends embracing the coffee of Mocha, the
gumins and drugs of Arabia, the tobacco of Syria, feathers from
the interior, elephants' teeth, &ec.; all of which are purchased
for him in the first instance.
Thus did the wily Mehemet Ali combine the tyranny of the
ancient time with the commercial spirit of the present day.
With the admirable spy-glasses in the        the most minute
objects could be perceived on the enemy's batteries. An English
line-of-battle ship is better supplied with these instruments than
the shore-going reader can imagine.'The most costly glasses are
"plenty as blackberries."  The author possessed at that time a
capital Dollond, which was supposed to be absolute perfection,
and yet this glass having recently undergone the process of
"illuminating" by Mr. Knight of Southampton, has been improved thirty-three per cent. A knowledge of this is of obvious
importance to naval officers.
To seaward, and about five miles to windward,  was her
Majesty's steam-ship "Medea" under easy sail without steam.
Slowly and majestically did our huge leviathans of the deep
pursue their course in such close and compact order, that to an
uninitiated observer they would appear in dangerous proximity.
The mate of the        forecastle, perched upon the Jacob's ladder of the fore-rigging, noted the wide difference in the sailing
qualities of the squadron, and hugged himself, with a sailor's
glee, in the conviction that the, with only her three topsails, could easily preserve her station, while the vast machine
ahead, with double the sail on her, could hardly keep her hinder
parts clear.
Suddenly the order was given," after-guard and - mizen-top
men, trim sails!  Square the cross-jack yard!"
The yards were instantly squared-the giant ship felt the
cheek and gradually increased the distance (some(what too short)
247 
218     HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
from the vessel ahead. The mate's triumphant smile at this
clear proof of his pet ship's speed was changed by the boatswain
exclaiming "Mr., there's sumlmut to do now, I'll bet amy
seven-bell tot.  Look at the flagship's buntin' a-going up.  I'm
blest, but the steamer's a-fire!"
This was too true. On glancing to windward, smoke appeared
issuing from the steamer, though her boilers were not in use.
Simultaneously the answering pennants of all the ships were
running up to the commodore's signal, "Boats to proceed to
assistance of ship in distress!"
The ponderous yards were instantly squared,; and the twodeckers which before appeared calm, silent, and almost sluggish,
were now, as if by magic transformed into the most intense
activity.  In a few minutes, the barge and pinnance of the -
were suspended high in air: a succession of loud splashes announced the reception by Mother Ocean of these boats and the
two cutters; and, a moment after, thirty or forty other boats
belonging to the squadron were pulling as if for life, in the
direction of the steamer. A double stimulus actuated the crews:
not only did they desire to outrun the boats belonging to their
own ships, but were tenfold more desirous to get ahead of the
boats of others.
The mate (to whom allusion has already been made) being in
the barge, and having seen every thing to rights ill his boat,
turned round to look at the ships. They were now under a
cloud of canvas, striving, by beating to windward, to approach
the unfortunate steamer. His delight, and that of the boat's
crew, was extreme, to see their ship gradually draw away from
and distance the rest, as though they were at anchor.
As they approached the steamer, all sorts of conjectures were
hazarded. It certainly appeared very strange that both ensign
and pennant were flying, as if nothing had happened. At length
she was reached, boarded, and the cause discover(ed. 
HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.                 249
It appeared that a gunner's mate or bombardier had been
screwing, or unscrewing, the cap of a shell-fuse; the composition
had ignited, and the shell, of course, exploded. As, at the mo ment, it was quite impossible to know what effect this might
have on the magazine, the signal of distress had been made. A
better idea of the effect of these destructive projectiles can not
be given than in describing the scene at this moment below the
deck of the "Medea."
The shell had burst on the lower deck, just above the shell room, killing the unfortunate bombardier who had meddled with
the fuse-cap. The explosion had thrown down all the bulkheads from the captain's cabin to the boilers; several planks in
the upper-deck were forced up; and a large mass of the shell, apparently two pounds in weight, had half buried itself in an upperdeck beam. Some of the poor victim's brains were scattered
against an officer's book-shelves, and several men were wounded.
One extraordinary escape deserves notice.  An officer was driven
up the skylight, and found himself on deck unhurt.
The vessel was now surrounded by boats, and the decks were
crowded with officers, all congratulating the "Medeas" on their
extraordinary and providential escape.
The above, however, was not the only instance of fool-hardy
carelessness in the squadron.  A few days previously, the gunnery-lieutenant of one of the line-of-battle ships had occupied
himself during church-time in doing the self-same thing on the
orlop-deck, exactly under the spot where the mass of the ship's
company were assembled for divine worship-an unconscious
Guy Fawkes. It makes one shudder to think of the dreadful
carnage which must have ensued had an ignition similar to that on
board the steamer taken place. And, by a curious coincidence,
on the arrival in England of a report of the "Medea's" disaster,
another poor man was killed in trying the same experiment.
Precautions are now adopted to prevent accidents of the like nature.
L* 
250     HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
Soon after the above occurrence we had a taste of the celebrated Syrian gale, which lasted several days. The motion
produced by it was no trifle. It has been the lot of the present
writer to make acquaintance with heavy gales and furious seas
in all parts of the globe. He has been in a cutter near Cape
Horn; in a small yacht in the Pentland Firth, the Sunburg
Roost, and the Race of Alderney; but the worst tossing he ever
remembers was in this very gale, and in this large two-decker.
As a specimen of the extreme violence of the motion, a lee-lurch
submerged the muzzle of a forecastle gun, and, at the same time,
jerked the carriage up off the deck. At the precise time this
movement occurred, a seaman fell from the weather-side, slid
rapidly down, and was entrapped (on the weather-roll of the
ship) by the gun-carriage falling down upon his legs: his thigh
was broken. Perhaps this excessive violence of motion may be
partly accounted for by the fact that, a few minutes prior to the
above accident, the close-reefed mrnain-topsail was blown clean
out of the bolt-ropes; the main-staysail shared the same fate in
setting; consequently the ship for a time was without any sail
whatceer. 
CHAPTER II.
Bay of Marmorice-Rebellion in the Midshipmen's Mess-Election of a new
Caterer-Vote by Ballot-The successful Candidate- His despotic Views
-Committee of Appeal-A Coup d'etat-Struggle for Authority-The
Dictator's Triumph-A  Discussion-Plot to Maintain "Order"-Its
Success-Eradication of a bad Habit-The Irish Mate and the Omelet
-Stale Eggs-Paddy doubly Fined-Eventual Prosperity of the Mess.
As soon as the gale moderated, we bore up for the Bay of
Marmorice, much to the satisfaction of the mates and middies,
who looked forward with delight to what they called "a fullbellied place." In a few days the squadron was snugly moored
in the above magnificent harbor of Asia Minor; but, to the
infinite annoyance of the hungry expectants, the first day passed
without the savory additions they looked for. This again raised
in the mess the spirit of rebellion, which was only dormant, not
dead. Loud and angry were the complaints; but when the
second and third days passed with like scarcity, the empty, and
therefore furious stomachs broke out again into open and violent
revolution.
Peremptory calls were now made for universal suffrage, and
vote by ballot, to elect a caterer who would administer to popular
wants. But even in the prosecution of their own designs the
agitators made so desperate a tumult, that, for half an hour nothing could be heard. The old difficulty in effecting a change
of things was therefore renewed.
At length, to the disgust of the universal-suffrage men, the
franchise was limited to those who had been two years at sea, 
252     HOW TO GOVERPN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
Though at first denounced as an illiberal restriction, this was
ultimately confirmed, especially as, by a compromise between the
parties, the ballot was ordained as the mnode of voting.
The election immediately took place, and the elder members
of the mess pledged themselves to accept the office, if chosen.
On examining the ballot-box, it appeared that the majority of
votes had fallen on an old mate of some sagacity, who at once
perceived that to keep thirty riotous messmates of all ages in any
degree of order, it was necessary to possess extraordinary authority; the former amount of privilege was clearly not sufficient.
Cromwell had more irresponsible power than Charles whom he
deposed for imputed tyranny. Why, then, should not our old
mate strive to imitate Cromwell's example?
"Well gentlemen," said the newly-elected ruler, "you have,
it seems, elected me caterer of the mess."
"To be sure we have," was responded, Awith loud cheers.
"You know," continued the old mate, "that you are a very
difficult set to keep in order."
"Yes, yes, we know that," replied the young gentlemen;
"but we want a good mess. Our constitution has been perverted. Reform! reform!"
"Well, then," pursued the mate, looking as if his brain were
full of schemes for the general good, "if I am to be caterer, I
must have extra powers."
"By all means," was universally responded.   "Any powers
you like, as long as we have lots of grub."
"Well, but I must be despotio," urged the mate.   "I must
exercise the privilege of levying fines whenever, and for whatever I please. My word must be law, against which there can
be no appeal."
"We consent that it shall be so," replied the middies.  " Do
you stipulate for any thing else?"
"No," answered the mate; "and to show you my liberality. 
HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
I will grant you a tribunal, to be elected by myself, to which
you may appeal against my decisions whenever you may hold
them to be unjust."
"Hurrah, hurrah! the new caterer forever!" was vociferated
by the assembly.
"Gentlemen," continued the mate, "I name as the Committee
of Appeal, Brown, Barry, Jones, and Robinson; myself president."
"Bravo!" was shouted.   " Can't be better."
"The committee, however," added the mate, "must not be
called together for nothing. If any one appeal to it, a bottle of
champagne will be drunk, and either the appealer or the mess
must pay for it, as the committee may decide."
This, being considered a violent stretch of absolutism, excited
the first symptoms of dissent. Much confusion prevailed in the
meeting, amidst which arose exclamations of "Oh,  ah!  You
are carrying things, you know, with rather too high a hand!
'Twon't do. We shall be worse off than ever. So much for a
protector.'"
The caterer saw that the time had arrived when it became
necessary he should strike a decided blow; his newly-assumed
authority was at stake; it must perish, or be enforced by a coup
d'etat. He resolved, therefore, to take the first opportunity that
might present itself of bringing things to an issue.  This was
speedily afforded by one of the youngsters, nick-named "Cheeky,"
shying his cap at another across the table.
"Mr. Cheeky;" said the caterer, rising, and  looking very
solemnly.  "I commence the duties of my office, by fining you
one shilling for shying your cap at Mr. Kilderbee's head." (Immense uproar, laughter, and cheers.)
"I'll see you hanged," said the offender, "before I pay any
fine. I appeal to the committee."
Bring  a bottle of champagne!" exclaimed the caterer.
"Gentlemen of the committee, you hear the appeal. Please to
253 
254    HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
arrange yourselves round this end of the table." Then, addressing the steward, he added, "Holrnes, produce the glasses."
A dead silence prevailed.  The "young gentlemen" perceived
that the reform for which they had clamored was carried beyond
what they had bargained for.  The bottle and glasses were
brought, and the whole mess assembled round the "board,"
wondering what would come next.
Filling up the five glasses for the committee, the old mate
looked smilingly round. He well knew the great struggle for
authority had commenced. Should he, on this occasion be successfully opposed, the mess would once more, and forever, be disorganized.
"Gentlemen," said he, "I drink this wine at somebody's expense, not my own, to a just decision of the committee-to a
good and vigorous government of the mess, and to abundance of
savory dishes for us all." (Great cheering.) Then turning to
the committee, "Gentlemen," pursued he, "you have been present at the whole scene. Is Mr. Cheeky fined justly or not?"
" We  approve! we  approve!" simultaneously shouted the
committee.
"Then, Mr. Cheeky," persisted the caterer, "you are not only
fined one shilling, but are amerced also in the cost of this champagne. Holmes, put the wine down to Mr. Cheeky's account."
This sentence excited uproarious applause, accompanied by
derisive cries, such as, "Halloa, Mr. Cheeky, how does the wine
taste?"  " Cheeky and champagne!"
The victim lifted up his voice in indignant remonstrance; but
it was speedily drowned by the shouts and screams of the whole
mess, and the old mate, under the plea of maintaining "order,"
safely achieved the first step on the road to despotism.
The news of so "strong a government" in the midshipmen's
mess, flew like wildfire through the ship. The champagnepunishmnent received abundance of comments, and the unlucky 
HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S ME,SS.
offender was greeted wherever he went with mock commiseration
and ironical questions.
Meanwhile, the infliction, which not only covered the transgressor with ridicule, but invaded his pocket, produced a marvelous effect. The old mate now took care that the table should
be well spread. Some degree of regularity was soon attained,
and, the first time for weeks, the mess-table could boast of decency
and decorum.
The members of the committee had been wisely chosen; they
were the elite of the mess, and determined to uphold the caterer.
There was something that prodigiously tickled their fancies in
legislating to the taste of champagne; they had seen, moreover, the beneficial effects of the initial measure of the new authority.
At first the old mate took especial care to bring forward only
glaring cases, and to pounce exclusively on those who had little
or no influence aboard.
Brown and the caterer were walking the deck one night, when
their conversation turned on the reformed government of the
mess.
"I do not think," said the former, "that you will be able to
carry out your plans with the committee."
"Why not?" demanded the old mate.
"Because, when I was in the Rodney," replied Brown, "old
Parker sent for several of the seniors of the mess and tried to
form them into a committee. But it did not answer. If, therefore, such a body failed under the auspices of so mighty a man
as the captain of a line-of-battle ship, how can yours hope to succeed?"
"I'll tell you," replied the mate; "old Parker, although a
very'cute hand, did not take the right steps. He ought to have
chosen o,ze person, such as yourself, and then desired himn to
form a committee.  If flve men are told to do any thing, nothing
255 
256     HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
will be done. A committee is helpless without a head. I wish
to have a' board' merely to back my authority-nothing more."
"Nevertheless," responded Brown, "I think you will fail."
"You may depend on it I shall not fail," replied the mate,
"and for two good reasons; -first, that I shall carry on my measures with perfect good temper; and secondly, that the majority
are for order, a word which, according to their definition, means
lashings of good beef-steaks with a yellow selvage to them."
Though the mess rapidly improved, our caterer perceived that
rocks were in the way, to steer clear of which required skillful
management. A principal obstacle was the high tone of some of
the senior and stronger of the mess, who now began to consider
themselves privileged. As yet, the old mate had not thought it
advisable to bring them to book; but as such a course would
soon become absolutely necessary on account of the growing dissatisfaction of the weaker members, and in order to promote the
"public good," he determined in future to pay no respect to persons.
One evening a large smoking-party had assembled on the port
side of tlhe main deck forward; the chief topic of discourse was
"Cheeky" and the champagne-forfeiture.  Our old mate listened
to the observations, and set his wits to work to gain his end.
Among the most jocose of the company, was Barry, a tall,
Herculean mate, good-tempered and popular, but extremely fond
of having his own way. He was, moreover, invested with the
dignity of a committee-man.   This was the instrument our wily
caterer determined to get hold of to consolidate permanently his
power in the mess.
Tlfe party having separated, our two friends were left alone;
and the caterer soon discovered, that though Barry was favorable to the new order of things, he was not aware of the dangers
ahead. Having advised him of these, the old mate said sud
denly, 
HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
"The only way, Barry, to keep our big fellows in any order is
to fine you heavily."
"Fine mne?" echoed Barry.  " Come, I like that.  What am
I to be fined for?"
"Why," replied his companion,  "you are the biggest  and
strongest in the mess, and nearly the senior. If I fine you, and
you pay without a murmur, no one will dare resist."
" Not a bad idea," returned Barry.   "But it depends, you
know, on the amount. What sum do you propose?"
"A mere nothing," was responded; "only a dollar and a bottle of champagne."
"The  devil!" ejaculated  Barry.  "Do  you  call that nothing?  Why, it will cost eight shillings and eightpence."
"Never mind," said the old mate; "I'll deduct it from your
mess-money at the end of the month, and charge it in the accounts as secret-service money."
"Ha, ha! capital.  I'll do it, by Jove!" declared Barry.
"Very well," rejoined the old mate; "but mind you don't
laugh when I charge you, as I mean to do, in the middle of dinner to-morrow."
"What offense shall I commit?" demanded Barry
"Let me see," responded the caterer.  "I have it.  There is
a bad habit among us of leaving cocked-hat boxes, dirks, and
swords, kicking about the mess.table. Leave one of your boxes
there to-morrow. I will do the rest."
The following day a hat-box appeared on the table, just as the
mess were sitting down to dinner.
"Gentlemen," said the caterer, "this nuisance has become
intolerable. You all must see the necessity of abating it: an
example shall be made. The owner of this box shall pay the
piper, and no mistake. I care not who he is. He's fined a
dollar. To whom does this box belong?"
After somre hesitation, Barry, in a low voice replied:
257 
258    HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
"I believe it's mine."
"Oh, ah!" was the general cry.  "He won't pay! he's too
big!" "'Yes, he shall!"  "No, he shan't!  "Shame, shame!"
'1 Down with all tyranny!"  " Oh! that infernal caterer!"
When, however, Barry rose to reply, the utmost silence prevailed. Every one was anxious to see what he would do, and
all were ready to take the cue from him.
"Gentlemen," said he "I acknowledge my error.   I bow to
the judgment of the caterer."
Such a reply from a man of his known influence and personal
prowess, excited astonishment, heightened by the caterer saying:
"Sir, as you are a member of the committee I fine you, in addition to the dollar, a bottle of champagne."
This little trick had a great effect, and assisted materially in
reducing the mess to order.
Our caterer had to eradicate another bad habit into which the
strong members of the mess had fallen, namely, of sending the
servants on trivial errands, such as "How is the wind?"  " What
sail have we set?" and so forth. Too glad to make this an
excuse for absenting themselves from the duty of the mess, the
servants, in attempting to justify their fault would say
"Why, Sir, we were ordered to go: we dared not refuse-we
must obey orders from our superior."
Such excuses were unanswerable: but it was impossible not to
see that the general business of the mess was retarded by so idle
a practice, and that it interfered with the comfortable preparation of the meals. The steward complained bitterly, and declared the work could not be done while the time of the servants
was so invaded.
The old mate was rather puzzled at first in attempting to devise remedial measures; but at length he determined how to act.
Calling all the servants together, he informed them that, although
they were bound to obey the orders of their superior officers, yet, 
HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
as caterer, and having command of the mess-funds, he would stop
a shilling out of their private pay every time they absented themselves on any pretense whatever; and that whoever informed
against them should have half the fine, and go ashore in the
beef-boat to market to spend the gratuity.
A few minutes after this regulation was made, a huge Irish
mate cried out
"Holmes, run up the galley and make me an omelet."
"Please, Sir," said Holmes, "if I goes to the galley I shall
be fined one shilling."
"Obey orders," retorted Paddy.  "Go directly."
Away started Holmes to the galley with half-a-dozen eggs. In
a second, one of the boys rushed into the gun-room and informed
against him.
"Steward," said the caterer, "Let Tom go ashore to-morrow
morning with you in the market-boat. Here, boy, is your sixpence."
Poor Holmes was immoderately laughed at by the other servants, and was pcrsuaded to tell the Irish mate how he had been
mulct. Paddy was bound in honor to repay him. This getting
wind caused many jeers at the Hibernian's expense.
"Why, Paddy," said one, "I could get a message taken from
Cumberland Gate, Hyde Park, to the Bank for a shilling."
"Oh, Pa(ddy, my boy!" exclaimed another, "twopence a piece
for eggs is dear carriage to the galley."
"I say, Paddy," observed a third, "I could ride ten miles in a
buss with a bushel of eggs for a shilling."
Go to blazes with you all!" vociferated Paddy; "I wish the
eggs were rotten and down your cursed throats."
Either out of devilment, or by chance, the eggs were very stale
indeed.  When, therefore, they appeared smnoking hot in the
shape of an omelet, the bad odor was so evident that all hands
were obliged to hold all noses. This speedily attracted a host
259 
260     HOW TO GOVERN A MIDSHIPMAN'S MESS.
of Paddy's uproarious messmates, who, delighted that his wish
was partly fulfilled, hovered about him like gnats, and stung him
with unwelcome jests. His patience at last became quite exhausted; and, with an unpronounceable Irish oath, he flung the
tainted morsel in their faces. This made them frantic with joy.
Uttering screams of delight, they immediately demanded that he
should be fined a dollar.
As this was but fair, the old mate, who had all the time been
egging on the tormentors, and was, moreover, enjoying the success of his ruse, issued his edict as was in that case made and
provided.
Still burning with rage, the Irishman swore by all the powers
he wouldn't pay a farthing more than the shilling, and concluded
by appealing to the committee; which, meeting on the following
day, confirmed the fine; so that poor Paddy was compelled to
pay the dollar, and also to supply a bottle of champagne as the
price of his appeal.
The old mate's dictatorship was now thoroughly confirmed;
and the mess in a short time was not only in admirable order,
but became very rich. 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
CHAPTER -I.
Occupation of the Falklaiids-Report of the Commissioners for 1846 Royal Indenture-Population-Captain Sulivan's Expedition-Govern ment Aid-Facilities offered to Mariners by the Falklands-Climate of
the Islands-Anson's erroneous Stateinents-Tussock-grass-Prodigious
Increase of Cattle-Robberies on the Cattle-stations-Method of pre venting this Pillage-Frauds on Underwriters-Marvelous Abundance
of wild Horses-Port Stanley.
As the spring-tide of emigration appears to have set strongly
toward the colonial possessions of Great Britain, it may not, perhaps, be superfluous, by way of introduction to the following
sketches, to give a brief summary of prominent circumstances
connected with the Falkland Islands since they were first occupied by an English governor (Lieutenant Moody), whose appointment took place in 1842, to which year the birth of the colony
may be assigned. Soon after the governor's arrival, the intended
site of the principal town was changed from Port Louis, at the
head of Berkeley Sound, to Port Stanley, as a more convenient
spot at which passing ships might call, when in need of repair
or victualing.
For some time, however, the infant colony languished for
want of maternal care: the government expenditure on its behalf barely sufficed to keep life within it. Still, though the 
26S    WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
islands were not so fortunate as to excite interest in England, it
was far otherwise on the adjacent coasts of South America. The
English merchants residing in the latter country, actuated by the
keen foresight and enterprise of their nation, wisely turned their
attention toward the only spot of land, within thousands of miles,
that hoisted the British standard; mid one of these merchantprinces immediately took steps to make an agreement with government to purchase a large extent of territory ill the Falklands.
The following condensed extract from the report of the Colonial
Land and Emigration Commissioners for 1846, will give the
material parts of the agreement. It is a curious and interesting
document.
1st. Indenture, made the 16th day of March, 1846, between
her most gracious Majesty Oqueen Victoria, of the one part, and
Samuel Fisher Lafone, of Montevideo in South America, merchant, of the other part. Her Majesty Queen Victoria sells to
Lafone that part of East Falkland lying south of the isthmus in
Choiseul Sound. Also the islands in Choiseul Sound, and all
other islands adjacent to the coast purchased; also Beauchene
Island,; also one town allotment of half an acre, and one suburban allotment of twenty-five acres in the principal town.
"2d. For six years and six months from this date, Lafone to
have absolute dominion over all wild cattle, horses, sheep, goats,
and swine on East Falkland.
"3d. For the above advantages, Lafone is to pay her said
Majesty, Queen Victoria, ~60,000 by installments in the following manner: ~10,000 within ten days (since paid); ~5000 on
the 1st of January, 1851; ~5000 on each succeeding 1Ist of
January, until the whole shall be paid in full.
"4th. Technical reservations of lands for government purposes,
such as arsenals, ports, bridges, &c.
"5th. That Lafone is to deliver to the governor yearly in good
health the following stock: in 1847, 500 cows, 5 bulls, 4000 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
sheep, 40 rams, 20 horses. In 1848,1000 cows, 10 bulls, 5000
sheep, 50 rams, 20 horses, 50 mares, 5 stallions, 30 sows, and 10
boars. In 1849, 1500 cows, 15 bulls, 5000 sheep, 50 rams, 50
mares. In 1850, 6000 sheep, 60 rams. The sheep to be all
white ewes, good breed (not merinos), common and hardy, similar
to those in the colony. The stock to be delivered at such good
and safe ports as the governor may direct." *
In 1848, when a new governor was appointed, sixty houses
had been erected at Port Stanley, besides the establishment of
Mr. Lafone in the southern peninsula, and a small farm of sheep
and cattle, belonging to Mr. Whittington, at the old settlement
of Port Louis. The entire population numbered from three hundred to four hundred souls.
Toward the end of 1848, Captain Sulivan, R.N., deeply impressed with the great advantages to be derived from a sheep
and cattle grazing-farm in the Falklands, determined, as the
chance of employment was small indeed, to form a company for
the above purpose on a large scale.
In a great country like ours, an enterprise of so prominent a
nature,as the one in question is seized on with avidity, particularly by those who happen to have a large family of sons. The
needful arrangements were therefore speedily completed, and a
vessel of three hundred and seventy-five tons (the "Australia")
was chartered to take out stock and materials necessary to set
the venture "well afloat."
As the author is very much interested in the success of this
enterprise, he is anxious to correct an error into which he fell
some years ago, in reference to the seal-fishing of these islands,
when, writing about the Volunteer Rocks off Berkeley Sound in
the South Sea Rocks slightly to the southward of the former,
he stated that they are superior, in number of fiur seal and ex
* This arrangement has been considerably modified by government.
263 
264       WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
tent of surface, to the island of Lobos in the Rio de la Plata, for
which is paid a yearly rent of eighty thousand dollars. In
making this statement he was much mistaken, and regrets
having fallen into an exaggeration.
Since the departure of Captain Sulivan's expedition, government has taken up the " Nautilus," a vessel of two hundred tons,
to convey the necessary materials for repairing ships at the Falklands. This is, indeed, very much required, especially since the
"golden dreams" from California have set all the rest of the
world dreaming of mines of gold, which, says quaint old Burton,
"is of all others a most delicious object. A sweet light, a goodly
lustre hath gold, and we had rather see it than the sun. Intolerable pains we take for it. Long journeys, heavy burdens, all are
made light and easy by it. The sight of gold refresheth our
spirits and ravisheth our hearts. It will make a?nan run to the
Antipodes."
Even before the existence of the Californian mania, the average
number of vessels passing the Falklands both ways was five per
diem. Most of these ships sighted the islands to verify their
chronometers; and it is not too much to say, that if captains of
vessels were generally acquainted with the facilities offered by
the Falklands, such as the abundance and marvelous cheapness
of provisions, the admirable havens-more like basins than harbors-the great facility of entrance and departure, and, though
last not least, the ports being perfectly free, full ninety per cent.
of the above-named vessels would call there, to carry out a proper
system of economy on the long-voyage trade.
With regard to the climate of the Falklands, it is a singular
fact that this archipelago has always been characterized as barren,
desolate, and tempestuous. Nothing can be more erroneous. The
misrepresentations in "Anson's Voyages" have probably strength
ened, if not created, the general prejudice; but there can be little
doubt that this navigator's passage round Cape Horn manifested 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
more zeal than judgment, particularly in keeping his squadron
together, rather than appointing a rendezvous in the Pacific. It
is notorious that his vessels were badly found and fitted; his crew
was not only weak, but the majority untrained; and, to com plete the list of evils, the very worst time of year was, by defect ive arrangement, forced upon them for rounding this prominent
southern headland.
Where so many elements of disaster exist, it is not surprising
that misfortune should occur. The Falklands being in the vicin ity, came in for a share of the misrepresentation which still re tains a hold on the public mind. Captain Sulivan was employed
seven years in minutely examining and surveying these islands.
He was accompanied by his family, who not only enjoyed unin terrupted good health, but considered the climate better, on the
whole, than Cornwall or Devonshire.
Voyagers frequently form erroneous impressions of climate from
the temporary nature of their sojourn.  This is remarkably exem plified in the journal of Darwin, who is generally an accurate
author. He says-" The climate of the Falklands may be compared to thatwhich is experienced at the height of between one
and two thousand feet on the mountains of North Wales, having,
however, less sunshine and less frost, but more wind and rain."
After this assertion had been proved to be totally incorrect, and
after the evidence of Captain Sulivan's letters, it is surprising
that in the second edition of " A Naturalist's Voyage," the author
should have made the following remark:
"From accounts published since our voyage, and more especially from several interesting letters from Captain Sulivan, R.N.,
employed on the survey, it appears that we took an exaggerated view of the badness of the climate of these islands. But
when I reflect on the almost universal covering of peat" (query,
what has that to do with climate?) "and on the fact, of wheat
seldom ripening there" (incorrect), "I can hardly believe the
M
266 
266       WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
climate in summer is so fine and dry as it has lately been represented."
Now the truth is, that the temperature of the Falklands is
very similar to that of Devon or Cornwall, with this difference,
that it is rather milder, much drier in summer, but very windy.
The evaporation is excessive; so much so that, in this particular, it exceeds the Cape de Verds. This is, indeed, an extraordinary fact, especially when the latitude of the latter region is
considered. So extreme a dryness of air may hereafter be turned
to excellent account in the manufacture of salt; and should this
anticipation turn out to be practically correct, a valuable article
of commerce will be added to the productions of the Falklands.
South America is now principally supplied from Cheshire in
England, and the Cape de Verds; the length of the voyage in both
instances being much against a cheap and certain supply.
The Falklands are remarkably accessible to pedestrians;* and
the earth is clothed with a variety of nourishing grasses, which
are as sweet as the delicate parts of the foliage of Indian corn.
It is not at all surprising, therefore, that the animals should
grow to a great size, nor that their meat should prove to be of avery delicate flavor.
The tussock t is a gigantic species of grass, frequently growing
to the height of ten feet, and, where abundant, not only capable
of sheltering, but absolutely concealing, herds of cattle or horses.
Tussock is called "the glory of the Falklands."  An instance is
mentioned in Ross's voyage of two American seamen (deserters),
who lived solely on the core of this grass for fourteen months;
and, when reclaimed from their wild wanderings, were plump,
healthy, and in excellent spirits! Cattle and horses are ravenously fond of tussock; so much so, that the author has a vivid
remembrance of the wild cattle eating the dry thatch, composed
t See "Ross's Voyage," p. 269.
* See " Fitztoy," p. 247. 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
of this material, from a small cabin he had erected as an armor er's forge. This was seen by him with a spy-glass from the deck
of the "Arrow," when the beasts were descried, reared on their
hind legs, easily pulling down what the crew with so much trouble
had completed.
In 1839, the cattle were computed to be about thirty thousand
head. Their increase since that time must have been immense,
as they are now estimated at two hundred thousand. The only
way to account for this prodigious multiplication is, that since the
former period, whalers and other marauders have been kept off
from some of the stations, by the settlement and occupation of
the islands. It is, however, to be regretted that in the remote
parts great depredations are still committed on the cattle.
This is beginning to be felt as a serious drawback to the outlay
of capital. Pebble Island, for instance, and the islands adjacent,
are admirably adapted for cattle-stations. Unfortunately, however, this is the very locality now resorted to by marauders for
stealthily obtaining beef, not merely for present supply, but for
committing so wholesale a- destruction as will enable them to salt
down sufficient for a long cruise. It is pretty well known that
in numerous vessels from England, America, and other places, a
stock of salt is taken out for the purpose of curing a supply of
provisions at the expense of these islands.
The only way to prevent this pillage, which years of impunity
have seemed to sanction, would be by stationing on the spot one
or two small vessels-for example, two cutters, rigged as ketches,
under a commander: these, constantly moving about, would not
only scare away the light-fingered gentry, but a portion of the
crews would be eminently useful in erecting buildings for government purposes, cultivating gardens, and making preparations for
colonization, either penal or otherwise. The expense would be
little or nothing: say, one commander, one lieutenant, two second
masters, twenty able seamen, twenty marines, and sixteen others
267 
268       WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
-in all, sixty.  These officers and men could easily navigate one
ketch of one hundred and twenty tons and another of sixty, and
be a complete protection to the whole islands.
It is believed that these islands are frequently made use of by
fraudulent persons much in the same manner as the Bahama
banks are in the West Indian seas; that is to say, ships are purposely lost there to defraud underwriters. Many instances are
known of vessels being "cast away" in the most unaccountable
manner. In several instances ships thus lost in some of the
basin-like harbors, have been sold for a "mere song," recovered
at little expense, and are still bearing rich freights across the
seas! The very fact of a naval officer being on the spot would
prevent such disgraceful proceedings, and save thousands yearly.
The undeservedly bad name borne by the Falklands, tempts
fraudulent adventurers; but were people in general well-informed as to the admirable and safe ports in these islands, the utmost
surprise would be expressed at ships being lost there. As it is,
the unprincipled master has a certainty of a safe and comfortable
wreck; preserves his life and as many private stores as hlie may
think niecessary; loudly trumpets forth the dangerous nature of
the islands; and thus disarms and silences suspicion. From the
astonishing increase of trade round the Horn, the author ventures
to predict that the underwriters in England will be thoroughly
fleeced in insuring vessels to the Falklands, and that the islands
will be innocently accused of being the cause; but he asserts
advisedly that no well-found, well-managed ship need be lost on
the Falklands.
As a corroboration of the apparently marvelous increase of
animals alluded to above, the following is quoted from the narrative of a voyage by Lopez in 1586, published in the third volume
of" Hakluyt's Voyages and Travels:"
"Of all the men Don Pedro left behind him, there were but
two hundred left alive, who, in the ship's boats, went higher up 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
the river; leaving in the place called Buenos Ayres their mares
and horses. But it is a wonder to see, that of thirty mares and
seven horses, which the Spaniards left there, the increase in forty
years was so great, that the country twenty leagues up is full of
horses; whereby a man can conjecture the goodness of the pasture and the fruitfulness of the soil."
The following sketches are extracted from a diary kept by the
author while surveying the Falklands in 1838 and 1839. On
the site of the present town, Port Stanley, he shot five wild geese
at one discharge. Before that time the harbor was unsurveyed,
and consequently unknown; and the whole population, exclusive
of the officers and men surveying, consisted of about one dozen
persons!
269 
CHAPTER II.
Inclement Gale of Wind-Dreary Situation-Adventure on a Tussock-islet
-A Conflagration-Narrow Escape-An exploring Excursion —Abund  anlce of Game-A huge Bull-A Ruse-Desolate Scene-Attack on two
wild Bulls-The Combat-lHerds of wild Cattle-Outlying Bulls.
THE barometer fell so fast, that the surveying party did not
think it prudent to leave the vessel which was moored in Pleasant
Harbor. Every preparation was made for a heavy gale; as we
knew, by experience, that the weather-glass is a faithful monitor.
At noon we began to feel the breeze; and by two P.M. we had
as hard a gale of wind, accompanied by as fierce and powerful
squalls, with numerous flakes of snow, as I ever experienced.
Our situation was desolate in the extreme: to leeward, a
range of rocky hills, covered with snow; the harbor itself (a
branch of Port Fitzroy), lashed by the furious gale into one sheet
of foam; and to windward, a small islet covered with tussock,
the long leaves of which, bending and bowing as in despair,
added to the dreariness of the prospect. The entrance to the
harbor and the head of the bay were hidden from our view by
large flakes of snow driving furiously past us.
To deepen the effect of this dismal picture we were conscious
of being 104~ of latitude from Old England; and that, in case
of need, we were several hundred miles away from the nearest
assistance. In spite of all this, we felt perfectly comfortable and
jolly, and cared not one farthing for the gale, as we had not only
full reliance on our own resources, but abundance of "creature
comforts," to say nothing of the appearance of our spritsail.-yard, 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
which was not merely decorated, but positively loaded with game
of all kinds.
Toward night, as usual, the gale abated. The next morning,
after divisions, it being Sunday, divine service was performed-a
ceremony omitted only on one occasion while Captain Sulivan
and myself were aboard the vessel, when, during a very heavy
gale of wind, we were battened down. After the ship's company
had dined, some of the crew were allowed to land for a walk;
but as no fire-alrns were permitted to be carried on the Sabbath,
it was customary to put the men on an islet, in order to avoid
any danger from the wild animals which infested the mainland.
On the day in question, about twenty were landed on the little
tussock-isle close to which we lay; and as certain of the officers
(myself among the number) wished to go, we all went together,
and soon began to amuse ourselves in the best way we could.
These tussock-beds are very singular places; they have been
undisturbed for ages, and by the perpetual decay and renewal of
the flags the whole place where they grow is covered with large
lumps of vegetable matter as inflammable as tinder. The long
thin leaves- interlock above, and form, here and there, little
cloisters from five to twenty yards long in some places. The
paths thus formed are trodden perfectly smooth by the numerous
penguins, whose holes branch off in every direction.
As we were lookirng about us, one of our party suddenly
observed that he snmelt smoke. Though such a remark on an
uninhabited island was of a nature to excite surprise, no one
seemed to heed it till, in a few minutes, thick reeky volumes
began to roll over our heads when it struck me that some of our
careless vagabonds had set fire to the weather-side.
OtiT' we started for very life, though we had only about two
hundred yards to go. The ground was excessively difficult, as
some of the lumps were five feet high, and the flags on the
summits many feet above our heads.   The crackling of the
27 1
11 
WILD SPORTS OF THE  FALKLANDS.
flames was plainly heard, as if close to us, and we were nearly
suffocated by the dense smoke.
At length, after a desperate struggle, in which several shoes
and caps were lost, we gained the beach, rushed into the boat, and
pushed off. We were barely in time; for the next instant the little
bank over which we had scampered was a mass of bright flame.
Not a moment was lost in sending a boat round to the weather side (the leeward being impracticable, on account of heat and
smoke) to look for the rest of our men, about whom we were, of
course, very anxious. The thoughtless fellows were found sitting
quietly on the beach smoking their pipes, and looking with va cant pleasure on their work, not dreaming that some of their ship.
mates might, as the Americans say, have been "used up" by it.
The next morning, anxious to see the effects of the fire, I
landed early, and having examined the ashes, ascertained that a
very great number of birds had been destroyed by the conflagration. The island consists of about three hundred acres, of which,
I am convinced, there are not a dozen square yards without a
nest of some kind of bird containing four or five eggs or young
birds. In the portion of land wherein the fire raged, the young
birds were roasted alive, besides a few seals, whose remains we
found pretty well singed. The authors of this wholesale destruction said it was quite pitiable to see the larger birds, such as
geese, caranchos, &c., flying round the flames that were consuming their young, and screaming with horror. Now and then
one of them would fall in; either suffocated by the smoke or
scorched by the heat.
A day or two subsequently, Captain Sulivan and myself landed
with our guns on an exploring excursion. After about an hour's
walk round a chain of ponds, during which we jointly bagged
upward of forty teal, we saw, on turning the corner of a gully, a
huge bull half hidden among the bushes, as if fast asleep. Dropping on our knees, we crawled back some distance, for the purpose
272 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
of changing our small shot for ball. Having thrown down our
game and shooting-jackets, we stealthily advanced on all-fours,
and crept up to a small bank within fifteen yards of the brute's
great head, which lay fully exposed to us; then, resting our
guns, we both fired our left barrels at a concerted signal, reserving the right.
The beast did not move; and, to our mortification, we found,
on a nearer approach, that we had valiantly been attacking a
dead animal. It was some consolation, however, to discover
that our two bullet-holes were touching each other in the centre
of his brain.
Knowing full well that we might reckon on a speedy detection
of our exploit, and, consequently, on being well laughed at, we
determined to ward off the expected ridicule by turning the
tables on our shipmates; accordingly, going on board with joyful
countenances, we said (which was true enough) that we had
shot a bull through the brain, anid that he had not stirred
afterward.
On hearing this a party was formed, and saws, knives, and
other butchering instruments were taken, for the purpose of
cutting up the spoil, toward which, after receiving the necessary
directions, they started in high glee; while we sat down to
dinner chuckling at our ruse, which, if it did not ultimately
deceive our companions, had the desired effect in diverting the
laughter from ourselves.
When we had completed the survey of Pleasant Harbor, we
took the vessel some miles further up. As we advanced toward
the head of the harbor, the beauties of the place opened on us.
Sometimes the passage was so narrow that one might have
thrown his hat ashore on either side; and anon it spread out to
a broad sheet of water. The whole scene was so desolate and
dumb that, in giving the word of command, as the different
windings made it necessary to shift the yards, my own voice
Al*
273 
274       WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
startled me. The water-fowl, noiselessly parting on each side of
our bow as the vessel came up to them, did not appear alarmed,
but stared at us with grave astonishment.
At eight o'clock we came to and moored in a large sheet of
water, about ten miles from the harbor's mouth.
While enjoying my cigar on deck, and deriving pleasure from
the soft, serene air of evening, I perceived two bulls grazing
close to the shore just ahead of the vessel.  The surveyors, who
were engaged below laying down their work, immediately stopped business and came up.   Having only one day's beef on
board, we determined to attack the bulls; and, in a few minutes,
four of us were pulling for the shore with well-loaded guns. Our
proceedings had got wind on the lower deck, and all hands
crowded up the rigging to see the battle.
We landed under the bank in such a position as not to be seen
by our prey, who were quietly grazing all the time. Stealthily,
like Indians, we climbed the bank, and jumped over the brow
full before them. They immediately turned tail and fled. Captain Sulivan fired at the nearest brute as he turned, and, though at
the distance of fifty yards, we could clearly hear the sound of the
ball striking him, which it did about six inches behind the heart.
This was a staggering blow, but did not prevent his running
away. La Porte (our dog) was immediately slipped, caught the
bull about three hundred yards inland, and flew at his flank,
which caused him to face about and attack the dog. Time was
thus given me to get within fifteen yards of the spot, when,
lowering his head, the brute charged me. My right-hand barrel,
however, damped his ardor, and he turned half round as if to
fly. My second bullet now went clean through his body a few
inches above the heart, and, for a moment, brought him on his
knees.  While I drew my knife in order to hamstring him, he
suddenly rallied and appeared to collect what strength was left
him for one last desperate effort —always the most dangerous. 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
At this moment a shipmate came up and presented his gun,
but the vile Brurnmmagem snapped without going off', and we
should have been in rather an awkward predicament, had not
Captain Sulivan, with his remaining barrel, within five yards,
laid the bull dead at his feet, the bullet passing through the
centre of his brain, and coming out at the back of his head.  The
moment he fell, we were greeted by three loud cheers from the
people at our mast-head, and, in a few minutes, had thirty stout
fellows with us.
After disemboweling our prey, we attached a strong line to
his horns, and, with a sailor-song from thirty hoarse throats,
dragged him down to the water's edge, towed him off, and hoisted him in with a runner and tackle, not liking to trust his great
weight to the yard.
As the survey detained us here several days, we had a good
opportunity of exploring the immediate vicinity. Not a day
passed without our seeingf herds of cattle grazing around.  To
attack these would not be so dangerous an adventure as to encounter the outlying bulls, which, in number, are disproportionate to the cows.  This, no doubt, has arisen from the great
slaughter for food of the latter, whose flesh is preferable to that
of the male-a slaughter committed by ships of all nations some
few years ago, before the Falklands were under the English flag.
I generally remarked that the outlyers were covered with gashes,
received probably, in many a hard battle; and that they labored
under the disadvantage of not having their horns pointed upward
whereas the bashaws, who lived in female society, had remarkable advantages in that weapon of offense.
This may be a wise ordination of nature, to prevent the great
number of males from injuring the breed, which would certainly
ensue were not some of the bulls turned out of the herd and kept
at a distance by their more favored brethren.
275 
CHAPTER III.
Endeavor to carry out an Admiralty Order-Wild and sequestered Lake Majestic Swans and innumerable other Birds-Their familiar Confidence
-Flock of Teal-Flutter and Confusion among the Water-fowl-Skel etons of Quadrupeds-Author attacked by wild Bulls-Refuge on the
Summit of a Rock-Blockaded by the Beasts-Escape-Corrmbat with a
Seal-A surveying Party-Dangerous Conflict-Bulls in Chase —A wild
Banquet.
HAVING seen that every thing was in order in our little vessel,
I thought a good opportunity was before me to carry out one of
the orders given by the Admiralty to my commanding officer,
namely, to form little gardens in any convenient spot in the
Falkland Islands. I therefore determined to seek out a locality
adapted to so well-intentioned a purpose.
At half-past ten in the forenoon, I manned my barge with
four boys, and pulled along the shore, frequently landing as a
favorable place seemed to present itself, each of which, however,
onil examination, proved impracticable.  At length we arrived at
a little creek, about forty yards wide, running inland.  Up this
we went, following the windings of the stream about a mile,
when they terminated in a small-rivulet running-from a lake
situated at a short distance.
Leaving the boat in charge of three of my young crew, I landed with the fourth boy, and walked to the wild and sequestered
mere, which presented a sight to charm the eye of a sportsman.
The extent of the water-barely two acres-was thickly dotted
with birds. Two majestic swans, with ebony necks issuing from
snowy bodies, floated, with an air of haughty patronage, among 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
innumerable geese, ducks, teal, and divers; but, to my great
amazement, the feathered crowd, instead of appearing the least
alarmed and skurrying off, drew toward us: unlike their civilized
brethren, they were ignorant of the treachery of man.
I sat down on the brink of the lake, wondering whether, on
my return, I should be able to convince people of the truth, of
that which I then beheld. Except the swans, the whole assembly of fowl approached gradually until some hundreds were within twenty yards of me. A chorus then arose from them, as if
with one accord they inquired my business there, and sought to
know in a friendly way why I disturbed their privacy.
I may here remark, that the sounds they utter in a wild state,
are totally different from their notes when domesticated, and I
should not have recognized the species by the ear alone. The
entire congregation appeared to be so tame and unsuspecting,
that, reluctant to make my presence shunned by dealing death
among them, I contented myself (although my double-barrel,
loaded with No. 6, was lying across my knees), with taking
the seal-club from my boy's hand, and shying it among the
birds.
This had an effect contrary to what I expected; for, instead
of being alarmed, they gathered, as if with curiosity, round the
missile, and pecked at it. Never was so glorious an opportunity
of making an immortal shot! But again my humanity struggled
with my love of sport: I could not kill the poor confiding creatures, who placed themselves within my grasp.
At this moment a more legitimate opportunity offered: a flock
of teal flew over my head from another place. Mechanically my
gun jumped to my shoulder, and before I was aware of it, both
barrels had done their work; five birds fell from the discharge of
the first, and four from that of the second. For a few minutes,
the flutter and confusion that followed on the lake was  inrdescribable; but quiet was soon restored, except that every now and
277 
278       WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
then were heard little bursts of rapid chattering, as if excited by
wonder.
Bagging my teal, I resumed my quest of a site for a garden,
passing more than once the skeleton of a wild bull or cowrather grim land-marks in a wild solitude. One of these strongly
excited my attention. It lay in a pass over a small boggy rivulet at the bottom of a deep ravine. Here the poor brute must
have stuck in trying to cross: the surrounding earth was torn up,
and- the vegetation destroyed as if by hoofs and horns. I was inclined to suspect that this might have been done by wild cattle,
in horror at the terrible death of their fellow, who must have
perished of starvation: his head was stretched out as in the act
of bellowing.
While "moralizing this spectacle," I quite forgot the purpose
for which I landed; and was only roused from my brown study,
and warned of my distance from the boat, by the sudden trumpeting of wild bulls. I felt convinced we were chased.
Hoping to get back in a direct line, we ascended the side of
the ravine, and made for a hill, on the sumnmit of which was a
little rock which, luckily for us, was scalable. On gaining the
base of this position, impregnable to quadrupeds, I climbed up,
closely followed by my boy, who had hardly got a footing on the
top, when we descried five huge brutes who closed in our little
fortress, and declared war by furiously tearing up the ground.
With all convenient speed I drew from my gun the charges of
small shot, and loaded with ball; but, not expecting a fight, I
had only four bullets; and considering those not quite sufficient
to physic five full-grown bulls, I determined to lay them by for
a last resource, and await the chapter of accidents; knowing fill
well that, should we not return by a certain time, a party would
be sent to our assistance, who would soon deliver us by raising
the siege.
To beguile the time I struck a light for my cigar, and reclining 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
at my ease, expected the brutes would take themselves off. But
no such thing: they did not even graze, but watched the rock
as a cat would watch a mouse-trap.  I could not help laughing
to see nay little companion every now and then lift up his head,
reconnoitre the enemy, and extend his fingers from his nose ac cording to the elegant method now in vogue of "taking a sight."
We remained thus blockaded about three hours, when sud denly came on a furious squall of snow and sleet, which com pletely enveloped us all in the clouds. This being too good an
opportunity to be lost, we swiftly and silently evacuated our position, and ran at least a mile without stopping; after which a
rough walk of an hour and a half brought us down to the boat.
I resolved that, in future land excursions I would carry more
bullets.
In the afternoon of the following day, I again landed, having
our purser for my companion. While rounding an angle in the
island, I saw, spread out fast asleep, a hair seal of about seven
feet in length. Being anxious to observe the movements of one
of these creatures, I halted, and quietly watched him. My friend
had also seen the animal from another point of view, and, being
armed with a boarding-pike, had stealthily approached him.
The assailant, brandishing his weapon, had so earnest an expression of countenance, and seemed inspired by so knightly a determination (as though a new St. George was about to attack a
new dragon), that I could not refrain from bursting into a loud
laugh.
This roused the seal, who, slowly raising his head, gazed round
about with sleepy eyes.  The next moment the purser's pike was
stuck with right good-will into the beast's hind-quarters, on which
he scuttled into the water', followed by his persecutor, who, in
his excitement, tumbled after him (repeating his digs) into the
water, whence, what with my excessive laughter, and the thick
kelp, I had some difficulty in extracting him.
279 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
Thus ended our exploration for the day. In the thoroughly
soaked condition of my friend, a speedy return to the ship was
necessary.
As, about this period, we had not much experience in combating wild cattle, we deemed two persons with guns quite sufficienlt to attack one beast. When, however, we had gained a
little more knowledge, we became cautious and generally took
with us three or four men well armed. Our first irrational valor
arose from ambition of the honor of vanquishing a bull singlehanded-an exploit attempted by Captain Sulivan and myself;
after which, being satisfied with our experiment, we were in no
hurry to repeat it.
One morning early the surveying party landed, and were soon
lost in the windings of the creeks. About two hours after their
departure I ascended with my spy-glass, to our mast-head, for
the purpose of getting a better view, and could see the party on
a distant hill building a mark. In a short time I observed them
pointing their glass very earnestly in the direction of a particular
spot, much nearer the vessel, toward which, having finished
the mark, and put a pole on its summit, they started at a rapid
pace. I conjectured that the object of their anxiety must be a
herd of cattle.
Immediately arming myself with my usual weapons, I pressed
into the service my dog La Porte, together with a brave boy of
the name of Popham, who afterward always carried my second(
gun, and who never once flinched from putting it into my hand
at the proper moment.   Knowing, from the nature of the ground,
that I should stand a much better chance of getting near the
animals than was possessed by the surveyors, who must cross one
or two creeks and approach their prey from an open plain, I
landed, and marched in a direct line to the place denoted.
After progressing about two miles, we observed, just over the
crest of a hillock, a black ridge or eminence, like a bush or
280 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
small rock, which suddenly started into life, developing a huge
head and a pair of horns. It was a bull, grazing; and a magnificent creature he appeared to be.
These wild fellows are very different from their species in a
tame state. I can not more fitly describe them than by saying
they have a terrible aspect; so much so, that some of our men,
and one officer, although as brave and careless of their personal
safety as any could be, were never able to get over their dread
of the gorgon-like visages of these beasts, which operated so
powerfully on one or two occasions, as to prevent the individuals
in question from venturing on the main land. This peculiar terror on the part of men of high courage, must, I imagine, have
arisen from early impressions made in childhood, similar to the
dread some persons have of being alone in a dark place.
While considering how best we might attack the brute, a herd
of about forty or fifty was suddenly exposed to our view. Starting La Porte at them, and enjoining my brave young companion
to keep close to me, we ran full speed toward the animals, the
whole of which seemed panic-stricken, and scoured off. One
bull took a direction across my path, at a distance of about fifty
yards.  I leveled my rifle at his fore shoulder, and heard (immediately after its sharp crack) the dull sound of the bullet striking him. This enraged the animal, when turning his head at
me, on he came at speed, with tail high above his back.
In a moment I had changed guns, and, with my left knee on
the ground, waited his approach. La Porte did all a dog could
do to divert his course; but on me the bull had fixed his eye,
and nothing could shake his purpose. I must confess I felt as if
I should have been much safer any where else; but it was too
late to think of that.
The animal was within twenty yards when my first barrel
opened on him. The ball entered his forehead, but not sufficiently deep to cause instantaneous death, or even to disable
281 
282       WILD SPORlTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
him for the moment. Regardless of pain, he still galloped forward, when, at ten yards, my remaining barrel pierced his left
eye.
Mad, and half blinded, he now swerved from me and rushed
hleadlong on my boy, whom, without attempting to toss, he
knocked down, trampled on, and passed over. Before he could
turn, La Porte had him by the nose, and for a few seconds held
him; but he soon threw the dog off, and camie upon us streaming with blood. During the next two or three minutes we exerted every nerve and muscle to keep clear of his repeated
though weakened charges, and only succeeded by La Porte's
powerful assistance who, when we were nearly caught, sprang
upon him like a tiger.
At length the bull appeared to stagger slightly, and the dog
pinned him.  Drawing my hunting-knife-which, by-the-by, I
could shave with-I ran up, and was in the act of hamstringing
him, when once more he threw off the dog and bounded at me.
While making the third bound (and when I fancied I could feel
his hot breath, he was so close), the tendon having been severed,
the remaining cartilages of the leg gave way, and, with a loud
bellow, he was stretched on the earth. The next moment my
knife was sticking in his heart.
After a little time we cut his throat and examined his wounds,
each of which was mortal. He was of the low-quartered breed,
but young.  One of the surveying party, who afterward came
up, pronounced him to be only three years old.
We now collected our hats, guns, &c., which had been scattered around, and were beginning to compose ourselves, when, to
our infinite discomfort, two more bulls appeared over the rising
ground, with tails up (a sign of mischief), and making direct for
us. My first impulse was to load, and be prepared to receive
our pursuers; but in the heat of the last battle I had dropped
my powder-flask. Nothing therefore remained wherewith to 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
defend ourselves but our knives, which we clutched desperately,
taking up a position behind the carcass of our former antagonist.
The brutes advanced furiously; flight would have been impossible; we deemed our case hopeless. At the moment when
the bulls were within two hundred yards of us, we were unexpectedly cheered by a loud shout, and, with delight inappreciable
by any one who has not been in a similar predicament, we saw
all the surveyors hastening to our assistance, some with guns,
others with boats' stretchers, and one with a very suspicious instrument, which looked marvelously like a theodolite-stand.
This timely diversion had the desired effect. The bulls stopped
short, and our allies giving a shout, turned tail and fled.
We now cut up the carcass of the bull I had slain, carried
the joints down to the boat and then proceeded to prepare lunch.
Four men were employed to collect "d ciddledee;"* one was sent
with my rifle to procure a couple of geese, and another was
busied in lighting a fire. In a very short time a heap of wood
was fiercely blazing, and a couple of geese lying beside it.
Our cookery was not very elaborate: the man whom we
deputed to officiate cut off the heads of the birds, pulled out the
long wing-feathers, and rolling up the bodies in a heap of" diddledee," committed them to the flames. In about twenty minutes
the geese were thoroughly roasted, and unceremoniously kicked
out of the fire. Thus dressed, they looked exactly like two balls
of cinder: this dirty appearance, however, vanished on skinning
them, when they were as white as, and seemed much more
delicate than their tame brethren with all the sophisticated
treatment of a scientific cook. The insides were not disturbed
during the process of roasting, or rather burning, in order to prevent the juices of the flesh from being dried up.
* A small shrub, of so inflammable a nature that it will burn fiercely even when soaked in water. The above name is given to it by the
sailors.
283 
284       WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
These birds, together with a few beefsteaks from the beast
just killed, made (considering we were in the wilderness) a most
sumptuous luncheon, salt and biscuit being always carried with
us. After our repast we lighted our cigars, and being still
further animated by a potent glass of grog,
"Fought all our' battles o'er again, 
And thrice we routed all our foes, and thrice we slew the slain."
I am sure we enjoyed our entertainment in these primeval solitudes with greater zest than could have been felt in nine-tenths
of the sumptuous pic-nics at Richmond or elsewhere-always
excepting the irresistible charms of ladies' eyes, of which, alas!
we were destitute.
After spending a reasonable time in this wild pleasure, I returned to the vessel, and the surveyors resumed their work. 
CHAPTER IV.
Traces of wild Pigs-An Attack on the Swine-Its Failure-A Sea-lion  -A Man missing-Search for him-Discovery-Cause of his Disappear  ance-Necessary Precaution in wandering about uninhabited Lands  Shooting Excursion-Exploit of the Dog, La Porte-Wild Lake-As  cent of Mount Pleasant-Nervous Work-Fixing the Theodolite-stand
-Extensive but barren Bird's-eye View-Freezing Temperature-Con certed Signals-Singular Effects-A huge Eagle on the Mountain Peak
-Fierceness of the wild Cattle-Gales, with Snow and Sleet-Practice
with the Broadsword-Mysterious Incident-Termination of our Survey
and Wild Sports,
A FEW evenings after this, having surveyed the upper part of
the harbor, we dropped down toward the entrance and moored
abreast of a long, narrow tussock-islet. On examining this the
next day, we discovered traces of pigs; and an officer having
caught sight of one wandering along the beach "at his own
sweet will" (an enjoyment seldom permitted to pigs), punished
the vagabond by knocking him over in fine style at a distance of
sixty yards, with no better weapon than a short ship's musket.
This exploit set us all agog for pork-a delicacy which we
esteemed the more, as relieving us from the toujours bcuf.
Being thus haunted with delectable visions of griskins, spare-ribs,
chines, black-puddings, sausages, &c., we planned, in our enthusiasm, an attack on the swine.
To secure such a culinary luxury was an affair of serious importance, and we set about it seriously in the following manner;
viz., first, a man with a boat's flag stuck on a boat-hook marched down the centre of the tussock; and though he himself was 
286       WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
invisible in consequence of the great height of the leaves, his
banner flaunted gayly above, and was plainly visible to all.
Every now and then he sounded a little hunting-horn, which
was responded to by hearty cheers from six men on either side,
who, inspired by love of pig-meat, and armed with boardingpikes, were so spread out as to take up nearly the whole breadth
of the island, thrashing and hallooing with all their might.
About two hundred yards in advance stood myself, rifle in hand,
backed by my boy with another gun; and on each side of me,
at about eighty yards, were two of our best shots.
"The deuce is in it," thought I, exultingly, "if we shan't
revel in pork now, both fresh and to pickle."
It was an invigorating anticipation. On came the beaters
with shouts of expected triumph. They were formed, like the
Spanish Armada, in a half-moon, the horns rather in advance;
but, also like that redoubtable armament; our present enterprise
ended in a ludicrous failure. The pigs were so stupid (poor
wild, benighted creatures!) that they would not come to be killed
and cooked. Our exquisite generalship was thrown away; we
bagged only one little boar, and even that exploit was owing not
to human but to canine agency. La Porte had seized the straggler firmly by the back, and held him there, squeaking terribly,
till we came up and captured him alive.
But though we could not achieve a success adequate to our
gallant preparation and array of force, we consoled ourselves in
the reflection that we had "done more-deserved it."
During our pig-hunt we were tantalized every moment by a
clownish penguin, which would first pop out his head to survey
us, and then stalk by with grave and silent contempt. He
evidently saw that the swine would outwit us, and participated
.n the triumph of the quadrupeds.
At length a desperate rustling gave notice that something
large was at hand; and immediately after, to our infinite disap. 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
pointment, for we had calculated on the advent of a good fat
hog, out waddled a sea-lion. The beast's huge logger-head was
hardly visible, when it formed a target for our guns, of all which
the contents crashed into his skull nearly at the same moment.
Down he dropped immediately, and only showed that life remained by writhing for a few minutes.
On one of our excursions ashore, the following singular circumstance occurred. I have read in medical and other works
instances of a similar nature, but never witnessed one.  We had
breakfasted early and hastily one morning, in order to have a
long day before us, and at seven o'clock landed for beef.  Having
walked three hours, we wounded and, after a running skirmish
of two miles, killed a fine cow. This was very fatiguing work.
We then rested a short time, and began to retrace our steps toward the shore, in doing which we shot a calf, thus adding con
siderably to our load.
As I had only five persons with me, I did not take the usual
precautions for keeping my party together; and, on stopping to
rest, I found that a portly marine was missing. Taking the
least tired of my men, I went back some distance to look for the
absentee, and having paced two weary miles, was nearly giving
up the search, when we observed a flock of caranchos poised
nearly motionless in the air.
My companion shrewdly judged that the birds were balancing
themselves over our lost one; and, on going up to the place, I
found his suspicions correct. The marine was lying on his face
as if fast asleep, while a couple of caranchos sat watching him
within two feet of his head.
Thinking this was only a lazy fit, and being tired and angry,
1 brought the whole weight of my rifle down on a well-covered
part of his frame, causing, to my surprise, only a deep groan;
and we ascertained that the fat lout had lost all power of movement, and could not even lift his arm.   We were, therefore,
287 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
under the necessity of carrying his heavy body back to our party,
who were then at least six miles from the beach.:
On our arrival there, we tried to recover him; but, as hlie did
not appear to mend, we were obliged by turns to carry him the
whole way-and weary work it was. We did not get in sight
of the vessel till past seven o'clock in the evening. The people
on board, feeling rather alarmed at our protracted absence,
luckily kept a good look out, and a boat was on shore nearly
as soon as we arrived on the beach.
Having seen the patient, our doctor said that nothing but food
would restore him; an opinion borne out by the fact, inasmuch
as the man was as well as ever after a good meal. His total
prostration up to this time forcibly impressed me, as he was a
young and powerfully built man. I afterward learned that this
was not a very uncommon case, when violent and long-continued
exercise was combined with an empty stomach. Had the man
been left all night in the wilderness, he would, in all probability,
have died.
As it was, we lost, through the marine's illness, our calf and
the pritne parts of the cow which we intended to carry on board.
When first we arrived at the Falklands, I used almost to laugh
at one of the orders given by Captain Sulivan, that no one belonging to the vessel should be allowed to go on shore without a
companion; an order which I understand was rigidly enforced
by Captain Fitzroy, while in command of the "Beagle," which
was only once broken, and then ended fatally. I am now convinced that it is a very necessary precaution, and, if strictly
acted on in all uninhabited or unknown countries, would be the
means of saving many valuable lives. Two or three instances
have lately occurred of persons going out to shoot in health and
spirits, and being found dead the following morning. Exhaustion
and xposure to the weather have, in most cases, produced these
melancholy results; but with common prudence and a com
288 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
panion there is little or nothing to fear, especially if one is well armed-a practice which I earnestly recommend to all persons
who are desirous to return home with a whole skin.
As I was a passable shot, and an untiring pedestrian, I was
invited by Captain Sulivan to accompany him to the top of
Mount Pleasant, a hill about eight miles distant from our an chorage. The morning of November 30th being beautiful and
calm, we determined to set out, and accordingly started after ax
early breakfast, having two men with us to carry our instru ments, &c.  For the first half-mile we amused ourselves very
well with shooting snipe and other birds; but we were speedily
warned by the bellowings all round us that we should keep
more on our guard, which we instantly obeyed, by loading our
guns with ball and keeping close together.
Thus prepared, we advanced about a mile farther, when four
bulls drew out of a herd and manifested symptoms of resenting
our invasion of their territory. Not liking the look of the enemny,
we slunk back a short distance, and made a detour of nearly
two miles to get clear. La Porte, however, suddenly dashed
away, and for nearly twenty minutes was lost to us-much to
our vexation, as he was a most puissant ally. Our pleasure,
therefore, was proportionately great when we perceived his
driving toward us a little calf, baa-ing most pitiably.
The moment he was near enough, La Porte seized the animal's nose, and held it until we came up. Our first impulse
was to let the poor thing go; but the dog, in his anxiety to
secure his prey, had broken the upper jaw, and we therefore put
an end to the creature's sufferings by killing it, marking the
spot, that we might pick it up on our return.
After this, we marched on through the wilderness, still in
battle array, and dispersed a small herd, out of which the dog
captured another calf, but which, being uninjured, we let go
again.
N
289 
290       WILD SPORTS OF THIE FALKLANDS.
At length, we came to the bank of a large lake, whose wide,
unruffled gleam, quietly reflecting the sky, made the solitude
look more solitary. Through this sheet of water we in vain
attempted to wade, and were finally compelled to walk round
its shore-a great addition to the fatigue of our journey, which,
though in a straight line not more than eight miles, amounted,
by these necessary deviations, to thirteen or fourteen, and principally among long, soft, springy grass, eighteen inches high.
About one o'clock at noon, we reached the base of the mount,
and sat down beside a streamlet winding along the bottom.
After recovering a little from our fatigue, we commenced our
ascent, and crossed once or twice a long line of those stones
mentioned with much surprise by every traveler in this region.
Some were so large that we could not have got on them without the help of a ladder. But what struck me most was, that
when half-way up, we could hear, on listening intently, a stream
rapidly running, and by the deadened noise, evidently some feet
below the surface. Half an hour's more toil brought us to the
top of the mount; but here our progress was arrested by a perpendicular wall of rock running to the height of nearly three
hundred feet.
After a long search, we found a practicable breach. Leaving
our guns and other heavy articles behind, we scrambled up as
well as we could-no easy matter, from the nature of the rock
and the incumbrance of the theodolite-stand, which we intended
to erect so as to take a round of angles from the very summit.
With difficulty we gained the apex, but so sharp was it that
we could not fix the stand, and were obliged, cross-legged, to.
drag ourselves over a short ridge to a better place. This was
rather nervous work, for my left leg hung over the perpendicular wall as completely at right angles with the surface of the
earth as if the side had been built with a plumb-line.
On this narrow altitude we had room to fix the stand, pre 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
paratory to making the "observations."  A  perfect bird's-eye
view was now beheld of nearly the whole of the southern part
of the east island from the range of Wickham Heights. The
prospect was grand on account of its extent, though I could not
have imagined any thing so apparently barren and comfortless;
the grass seemed every where brown and parched, and innumer able lakes of all forms and sizes gave, with their wan gleam, a
melancholy effect to the view. I tried several times without
success, to count the cattle in sight; but, after repeated attempts,
gave up the endeavor. The temperature was bitterly cold, al though a dead calm; and large icicles were hanging in various
fantastic shapes from all the overhanging points of rock.
Before leaving the vessel, we had made arrangements with
Mr. Bodie (the master) that we should announce our arrival on
the summit of the rock by lighting a fire, the smoke of which
would direct him to let fall the topsail, and fire a gun exactly
five minutes after (to a second). By this sound we expected to
get the distance. Collecting what material we could for ignition, and having settled ourselves in comfortable positions to
watch with.our Dollonds, the word was given to light the fire.
In a moment, a small column of smoke slowly ascended. (We
aftenvrward heard that the effect, -as seen from the vessel, was
beautiful; the vapor being visible to the naked eye, and ascending like a tiny thread from the very peak of the mountain to a
great height, until dissipated by the upper currents of air.) No
sooner was this seen, than it was responded to by a dozen diminutive objects, descried through our glasses, climbing up the rigging like ants. A moment after, a small speck of white became
visible, which announced to us the fall of the topsail. As the
second-hand of Captain Sulivan's chronometer reached the five
minutes, a thin puff of smoke appeared to spurt out of the vessel's side.  All was now attention to catch the sound; but we
were too far off.
291 
292       WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
During the time we remained up here, not a single noise disturbed the death-like silence, neither was the solitude invaded
by any other living object than ourselves, excepting that a huge
eagle alighted to plume himself on a pinnacle within twelve
yards of the theodolite.
After descending with some trouble, we picked up our guns,
&c., and commenced our return. The homeward journey was
a painful one; as our two men, not being accustomed to such
long walks, were knocked up, and the wild cattle, as though
they knew we were fatigued, were bolder and fiercer than in the
morning. One beast chased us to the edge of a morass, in
which we were glad to take refuge. Finding from the nature
of the ground that he could not get at us, he worked himself up
into a state of madness, which was not at all allayed by a
couple of ounces of lead which we sent into his body.
Not wishing to be benighted, we hastened on, and having
found the calf we had killed in the morning, got safely on board
at seven o'clock to a capital dinner, of which the only fault was
a total absence of vegetables.
A succession of heavy southwest gales, with snow and sleet,
put a stop, during five days, to all out-of-door work. In the
evenings we were much at a loss how to find amusement, as all
the books in the ship had been read and re-read dozens of times.
I hardly know how we should have diverted the tedium vite,
had I not, before leaving England, luckily provided myself with
several single-sticks and hilts from my esteemed friend Mr. H.
Angelo, of whom I am proud to acknowledge myself a pupil;
and whose skill in the art of offense and defense in the use of
the broadsword is above that of any other professor I ever met
with. Our people took great delight in this exercise; and, by
imparting the knowledge I had acquired under Mr. Angelo, I so
trained my men, that I flatter myself few of Her Majesty's ships
could have turned out a crew equal to the "Arrow's" ship's
I 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
company in expertness with that thoroughly English weapon,
the broadsword.
We were now beset by a succession of heavy gales. I landed
only once, and that was abreast the vessel for an hour or two.
With the assistance of the crew, I managed to haul our little
dingy over a small bank, and launch her again in a fresh-water
lake, where in a very short time we bagged upward of sixty teal,
and double the number of various other birds, not mentioned in
the game-list.
On Sunday, the 10th of December, the gale had increased prodigiously. It was well for the little ship, which rode to three
anchors, that the holding-ground and our ground-tackle were so
good; for, with all our precautions, and though nothing was left
to hold wind, but the bare lower masts and hull, we- were in
momentary fear of going adrift. We could hardly hear the church
service performed, even on the lower deck, with the hatches
down, so loud was the roaring of the gale.
About sunset, as usual, the wind gradually sank to a hoarse
murrnur, and at midnight we had fine weather once more, the
stars shining as brilliantly as if within the tropics. Such sudden alterations form one of the marked peculiarities of the Falk
lands.
The next morning, some time after the surveyors had departed,
I was much surprised by observing a large column of smoke rising
several miles to the southward. This, naturally enough, caused
great excitement among us, as we knew our party had gone
in an opposite direction. So strange an incident in an uninhabited
island brought to my recollection Robinson Crusoe's discovery of
the foot-print of a man on the desolate sea-shore. All manner
of conjectures were hazarded, and truly some of them were wild
enough.
The next morning, as soon as I could spare them, I sent ofl'
four steady fellows. well armed; but nothing could they discover
293 
WILD SPORTS OF THE FALKLANDS.
save the remains of a fire, a few singed feathers, and a very oldfashioned rusty hatchet without a handle. Imagining some shipwrecked mariners might be near, we fired a blue-light as soon as
it was dark, and then a sky-rocket, but without any result. Who
could the adventurers have been?
Two days more were sufficient to finish the Choiseul Sound;
and early on the following morning we sent both our boats sounding down toward the entrance. At two o'clock we followed them
in the vessel. About twelve miles from the mouth of the sound
we perceived a splendid little harbor on the northern shore, where
we anchored for the night, intending to leave the next morning;
but unsettled and tempestuous weather detained us several days,
which, though a grievous infliction to us at the time, was pleasant in its results, as we had a most gallant and satisfactory
campaign in our Wild Sports in this part of the Falklands.
294 
SUPPLEMENT TO THE FALKLANDS.
IT is not to this day known if our government was informed of
Spain having purchased the French settlement made by de Bougainville. However this may be, we find in the year 1769, that
England had a frigate and sloop at the Falklands. Captain
Hunt of the "Tamar "frigate, being on a cruise in the neighborhood, fell in with a schooner belonging to the Spanish settlement
of Port Solidad. Captain Hunt, in pursuance of his orders, warned
this schooner off the coast, which, he asserted, belonged to his
Britannic Majesty.  The schooner immediately departed; but,
in the course of a few days, returned with a Spanish officer, with
letters and a present from Don Philip Ruez Puenta, governor of
Port Solidad.  The letters were couched in terms of the greatest
civility. The Don pretended to disbelieve the account he had heard
from the captain of the schooner; but attributed Captain Hunt's
being in those seas, to chance or distress of weather; and upon
that presumption offered him every assistance and kindness in
his power; though, if he should be otherwise engaged there, the
Don reminded him of the violation of treaties, asserted his mnaster's
dominion over that part of the world, charged him hypothetically
with insulting the Spanish flag, and ordered the officer formally
to warn him off the coast, at his peril; at the same time desiring
a written answer.
Captain Hunt, in reply, asserted the sole dominion of the King
of England, as well by right of discovery, as of settlement, and 
296       SUPPLEMENT TO THE FALKLANDS.
warned the Spaniard, in his Britannic Majesty's name, and by
his orders, forthwith to quit the coast, and, that he should not be
inconvenienced thereby, allowed him six months from the date
of his letter, to prepare for his departure.
The Spanish officer made a formal protest, as well upon the
grounds here mentioned, as upon Captain Hunt's refusing to let
him visit the settlement.  His threatening to fire into the
Spanish schooner, upon her attempting to enter the harbor,
exasperated the Don, who also protested against the English
captain going to Solidad, which he had proposed in an amicable
manner, and declared that it should be considered as an insult.
This produced, about a fortnight subsequently, another letter,
another answer, and another protest. In the course of two
months after this transaction, two Spanish frigates, of considerable force, with troops on board for the new settlement, arrived at
Port Egmont, under pretense of wanting water. The commander-in-chief wrote a letter to Captain Hunt, in which he expressed
great astonishment at seeing the English flag flying, and a kind
of settlement formed; charged him with a violation of the last
peace, and protested against the act in all its parts. He declared,
at the same time, that he would abstain from any manner of
proceeding, till he had acquainted his Catholic Majesty with
this disagreeable affair. Captain Hunt, as before, founded his
possession on the claim of right, justifying his conduct by the
orders of his sovereign, and again warned the Spaniards, to
depart totally from these islands. The Spanish frigates continued
eight days at Port Egmont, and were supplied by our people with
water. The captains and officers behaved with civility, and
declined going on shore, though permission was offered by Captain
Hunt.
As these transactions seemed indicative of some such consequences as followed, the English commander deemed it right, as
soon as possible, to depart for England with an account of the 
SUPPLEMENT TO THE FALKLANDS.
whole proceeding. On the 3d of June, 1770, he arrived at
Plymouth, and immediately sent an express to the Admiralty.
The "Favorite" sloop, Captain Maltby, succeeded the " Tamar,"
at Port Egmont; and, with the "Swift," Captain Farmer, each
of sixteen guns, formed the whole force on that station. This
was, however, soon lessened, by the "Swift," being wrecked in
the Straits of Magellan, where she had gone to explore: the
ship's company, except three, were fortunately saved, but were
still liable to perish by that greatest of all calamities,' hunger, if
the fortitude and bravery of a small part of the crew had not
saved the whole. These brave men, in a small open cutter,
undertook a voyage of about three weeks, in the most boisterous
seas in the world; and, having happily and miraculously arrived
at Port Egmont brought the " Favorite" to their relief.
It was not long after this loss, that a Spanish frigate put into
Port Egmont under the pretense, that having been fifty-three
days from Buenos Ayres, she was in great distress for water.
Three days subsequently, four other frigates hove in sight; and
it soon appeared that they had been only twenty-six days at sea,
and had ben separated a short time before in a heavy gale.
The squadron now threw offl the mask of deception, and
announced that they had arrived at the place of their destinatwion.
These five frigates carried one hundred and thirty-four pieces of
cannon, and had between sixteeen hundred and seventeen
hundred men, including soldiers and marines, on board; besides
which they brought a complete battering train, and other
material, sufficient to attack a regular fortification, instead of a
miserable wooden block-house, which had not even a port-hole
cut in it, and only four small pieces of cannon, which at that
time were sunk in the mud, to defend it.
A  Spanish broad pennant was immediately hoisted on the
arrival of the four frigates; and as no doubt of their intentions
now remained, Captain Farmer ordered most of the officers and
297
N* 
SUPPLEMENT TO THE FALKLANDS.
men who had belonged to the "Swift" to come on shore for the
defense of the settlement, and directed Captain Maltby to bring
the "Favorite" close into the cove.
On the first motions of the "Favorite," one of the Spanish
frigates sent an officer on board to acquaint Captain Maltby, that
if he weighed they would fire into him; he, however, got under
sail, regardless of these menaces, and the frigate fired two shots,
which fell to leeward of him. Immediately afterward three of
the Spaniards weighed and beat to windward in company with
the "Favorite."  In the mean time Captain Maltby had sent a
message to inquire the reason of the shots being fired; the answer
to which was, they were intended as signals.
From the first appearance of these vessels, Captain Farmer
had been active in clearing the stores, &c., out of the block-house,
and in endeavoring to make it as defensible as its nature would
permit. The crew dragged up, with much difficulty, four pieces
of cannon (which had originally been intended to protect the
landing-place) from the mud in which they had sunk, from
neglect, and placed them in the block-house, clearing out the
platform, and cutting port-holes to malke them effective.
In the mean time, both the English captains had written to
the Spanish commodore, that, "as he had been furnished with
what he required, they requested he would take himself off forthwith, and evacuate the whole coast, neglecting which, they
threatened him with the ire of their royal master." At the
same time, the Spanish admiral wrote to them, requesting them,
in the kindest manner, to remember his great strength, and the
powerless, and defenseless situation they were in, and that by
quietly going away they would prevent his forcing them, which
would obviate any disastrous collision,. and thus hinder the possibility of continuing their voyage horne.
The Spanish commodore now offered, that if the British commander would quickly, and with good-will, abandon the place, he
298 
SUPPLEMENT TO THE FALKLANDS.
would land his troops peaceably and quietly, and treat them with
all the consideration that the harmony which subsisted between the
two sovereigns required; he would, in that case, also allow them
to carry away all their effects and stores; and if, from want of
time, want of room, or any other cause, any thing should be left
behind, he would give a receipt, and leave the matter to be settled
by their respective governments.  But if, contrary to expectation,
they should endeavor to maintain their footing on the islands, he
would immediately proceed to the fulfillment of his orders; and in
that case threatened them, in the most pompous terms, with an
attack by sea and land, and all the consequences of fire and sword.
He concluded by an assurance that if a decided and favorable
answer was not returned in fifteen minutes, he would commence
operations; and talked largely of the spirit and brilliancy with
which his land and sea forces would begin the onslaught. At
the same time he recommended them to meditate upon the fatal
consequences which their obstinacy would bring upon the unoffending British subjects.
To these truly Spanish effusions our officers returned for answer that words were not deeds, and that they could not believe
that, in a time of profound peace, and when the greatest harmony
subsisted between England and Spain, he would attempt to put
his threats into execution. That they did not doubt he was
thoroughly convinced that the King, their master, was sufficiently
capable to demand satisfaction in all parts of the globe, of any.
power whatsoever that should offer to insult the British flag; and
if the time was limited to one minute instead of fifteen, it should
not alter their determined resolution, to defend to the utmost of
their power the charge committed to them.
Previously to the attack the Spanish admiral, to show the use lessness of any resistance, requested that some of our officers might
be sent to view the number and condition of the troops and ar tillery that were ready to be landed;  which was accordingly
299 
300      SUPPLEMENT TO THE FALKLANDS.
complied with the same evening, and found by the British officers
as described. Immediately afterward the Spanish frigates warped in close to the block-house.
At night Captain Maltby landed with fifty of the "Favorite's"
men, and brought with them two six-pounders, small alms and
ammunition. The next morning a part of the Spanish troops disembarked half a mile to the northward of our people; and when
they had advanced half way toward the English station the rest
of their boats pushed off from the frigate, and pulled in directiy
for the cove, being covered by the fire of the frigate, which passed
over the block-house.
"Our people," states the' Annual Register,' "fired some shot;
but, seeing the impossibility of defending the settlement, and the
Spaniards having now broken through all the limits of peace and
amity, even to the actual committal of hostilities, so that their
conduct was neither capable of being denied, or explained away;
our officers, as they had judiciously led them to this explicit
avowal, and supported the honor of their own country, as far as
the means in their hands would admit of, with the sae propriety preferred saving the valuable lives of their people, and leaving the injury to be redressed by their country, to the throwing of
them away in an unavailing contest, which afforded neither a
possibility of gaining any advantage, or a hope of obtaining honor.
They accordingly hung out the flag of truce, and demanded articles of capitulation.
"These articles were concluded between the Captains Farmer
and Maltby on the one side, and Don John Ignacio Madariaga,
Major-General of the royal navy of his Catholic Majesty, on the
-:ther. The substance of them was, that in a certain limited time,
b'ut discretionary on the part of the commodore, the English were
permitted to depart in the'Favorite,' and to take with them
such part of the stores as they chose, or she could conveniently
carry; that an inventory should be made of all the stores, and 
SUPPLEMENT TO THE FALKLANDS.
the remainder deposited in the hands of the Governor of Solidad,
Who was to become answerable for them; that the English flag
was to continue flying on shore and on board the sloop; but that
they were to exercise no jurisdiction except with their own people; and that they should be allowed to march off at the time of
embarkation, under arms with drums beating and colors flying;
but that they were to give the Spanish commander proper notice,
~hat he might appoint an hour for their departure, as they were
not otherwise to be armed.
"The restrictions with respect to the time of their departure,
were, until the Governor of -Solidad or his deputy should arrive
to make the inventories, and to take charge of the stores (supposing that they were to arrive within forty days), and until
twenty days were elapsed after the sailing of a Spanish frigate,
which it is to be supposed the commander intended to send off
as an express. But the most degrading of all the circumstances
attending this transaction, and particularly a new, and to all
appearance wanton insult to the British flag, was that for the
better security of this limitation, the  Favorite,' was deprived of
her ruddet, which was taken off and kept on shore during the
time of their detention.
"As the Spaniards, previous to this expedition, must have
been tolerably well informed of the state of our settlement at
Port Egmont, nothing can appear more ridiculous than the prep arations they made for it.- The train of artillery consisted of
twenty-seven pieces of cannon, from twenty-four pounders down ward; besides four mortars of six inches, four hundred bombs,
and all other kinds of ammunition and utensils, proper for carry ming on a siege, in proportion.
"The stores which our people left behind, were considerable,
both in quantity and value, and the inventories having been
properly stated and authenticated, as well as the stipulated time
elapsed from the departure of the Spanish frigate, the' Favorite'
301 
302      SUPPLEMENT TO THE FALKLANDS.
was at length suffered to proceed on her way to England, with
all our people on board. She accordingly arrived at the Moth erbank, near Portsmouth, on the 22d of September, after a
voyage of seventy days, by which it appears that she had continued at Port Egmont thirty-four days after the signing of the
capitulation."
A war with Spain nearly resulted from these proceedings, as
the public mind in England was greatly excited, not so much
on account of any supposed value of the Falklands, as by the
insolent acts of the Spanish authorities. The celebrated Junius
brought his powerful pen to bear on the subject, and hostilities
were averted only by Spain relinquishing to Great Britain, in
1771, her claim to the sovereignty of the islands in question, which
were now utterly disregarded by all nations.   In 1820, the
Republic of Buenos Ayres assumed a right to the Falklands, and
a colony from that state settled at Port Louis, which increased
rapidly, until, owing to a dispute with the Americans, the settlement was destroyed by the latter in 1831. Two years afterward, the British flag was again hoisted at Port Louis and at
Port Egmont; and His Majesty's ship'Tyne' was sent to take
charge of the islands for the purpose of keeping permanent possession. 
A P P E N D I X.
HAVING been much interested by the newly-invented plank roads which
have conferred great facilities of intercommunication in America, and being
of opinion that in certain English localities, particularly in some of our lanes
and by-roads, they may be found very serviceable, I have extracted, by
way of Appendix, a few particulars connected with the origin, construction,
and expense of plank roads, as compared with the formation of other roads.
This information is derived from a pamphlet by W. Kingsford, Esq., Civil
Engineer of the Hudson River Railroad, printed in Philadelphia but not
known in this country.
"Within the last three years, the plank road system has become a part
of the economy of the State of New-York. Special enactments have been
made to meet the circumstance, and hence in the western part of the State
private enterprise has been abundantly enlisted in this species of improvement. So satisfactory have been the results, that the neighboring and
more remote southern States, have commenced to inquire what are the
benefits which plank roads extend; and it would seem that this improved
mode of communication is likely to become generally introduced.
"Very little has hitherto been said upon the subject, and the writer
has thought that it would not be unacceptable to many, to enter upon an
inquiry as to the mode of construction and the probable cost of plank
roads, and their advantages and disadvantages, considered in connection
with the old roadway-bringing forward statements of the results which
are admitted to have proceeded immediately from the introduction of
plank roads. It must, however, be allowed, that hitherto, with the advantages which are direct, and recognized by all, some demerits have been
found. These, the writer believes he will be able to establish to have
grown up from vicious principles of construction, and can be guarded
against: and in the greater part averted by prudence and care. 
APPENDIX.
" HISTORY.
"The first plank road laid down in this continent was on the road leading east from Toronto, during the government of Sir Francis Bond Head,
in Upper Canada, in 1835-36. And the fact is recorded in the Report
of the Commissioners of the Younge Street road, dated 29th January,
1837. It was laid down experimentally, with twelve-feet plank, without any
principle of construction, beyond laying the plank on sleepers. The circumstance is thus commented upon:
"' The trustees, having examined the piece of planked road made last
year, and finding that it answered a much better purpose than could have
been anticipated, both with regard to the ease of traveling, and the very
trifling expense attending the keeping the same in repair, came to thedetermination of proceeding with it; they accordingly contracted with the
proprietor of the steam saw-mill to plank one mile, which was completed
in a very short time, for the sum of ~525 (2100 dollars), exclusive of
forming the channels, and laying on a coat of loam, or sand, to prevent
the wear by horses' calks and friction of the wheels. They beg further to
state the road has given more general satisfaction to the country, and as
it is evident from the experience they have already had, that the cost attending it is very little more than one-fourth of a stone road; and the
expense of keeping a lMacadamized road in repair being greater than was
anticipated, they have altogether abandoned the idea of Macadamizing, and
have contracted for continuing the plank road early next season.'
" There is no certainty as to the originator of the experiment. It is,
however, generally believed to have been Mr. Darcy Boulton.
"During the following year. troubles broke out in Canada, and all public works were stopped, until the arrival of Mr. Thomson (afterward Lord
Sydenham), when an impetus was given to the whole country. The Hon.
Mr. Hamilton Killaly was appointed President of the Board of Works,
and under his direction plank roads became one of the improvements of
the day. They were introduced with great success in Upper Canada. In
Lower Canada, Colonel the Hon. George Cathcart * was the means of
* The late Governor of the Tower of London, and one of the most distinguished cavalry
officers of the day. Colonel Cathcart was at Waterloo, as aid-de-camp of the Duke of
Wellington; and was formerly Colonel of the King's Dragoon Guards. He is one of the
many instancesof military men bringing to civil life a high order of intellect, which service seems to have quickened. And like his great master, he thinks no detail too insignificant, no labor too great.  The Chamb'ly and Longueil road was constructed principally after his instructions.
304 
APPENDIX.                   305
the first plank road being laid down between Longueil and Chambly, in
1841.
"As yet, nothing had been done in this State toward bettering the
lines of communication, and it was reserved for the city of Syracuse to be
the first to set other localities an example.   In 1837, the Salina and
Central Square road was laid down under the direction of the Hon. Mr.
Geddes and Mr. S. Alvord, who are entitled to the credit of having introduced the plank road system in the United States, and of having contributed most of the improvements on the modus operandi observed in Canada.
"One can not help contrasting the difference in the progress the system has made in Canada and in the State of New-York.
"In the former, where, dating from the arrival of Lord Sydenham, plank
roads have been known ten years.
Miles.
Government have constructed....................... 192
And private enterprise about (this total is assumed, as no
statement has been published)................          250
Total miles...................  442
In the State of New York, where the system has been introduced about
four years, upward of two thousand one hundred and six miles have been
registered, and are constructed, or are in the course of construction, at an
average cost of 1833 dollars per mile.
"COMPARISON WITH OTHER ROADS.
"The road which must be considered principally in connection with
plank roads is the Macadam road. - And if it can be shown thatfthe cost
of a plank road is infinitely less-that it is easier for the horse to draw
upon-and that such a road costs less for repairs, and is more durable than
a Macadam road-the proposition of superiority may be considered proven.
' The question of draught is the one first to be considered. Experiment
has determined the load which a horse is capable of drawing on the plank
road to be so weighty, that one almost hesitates to set it down from fear of
the accusation of exaggeration. On the Salina and Central Road, a few
weeks back. for a wager, a team * brought in, without any extraordinary
strains six tons of iron from ]3rewerton, a distance of twelve miles, to Syra
* Where this expression is made use of, it means two horses
APPENDIX.
305 
APPENDIX.
cuse. One and a half cords of green beech is a common load, which is
equivalent to 90 cwt.=4- tons.  And there is so little resistance on a
properly constructed road, that an average team can travel with this load
from thirty to thirty-five miles, day after day, at the rate of from three to
four miles an hour. Indeed, the farmer does not seem to make any calculations of the weight taken. He loads his wagon as best he can, and the
only care is not to exceed the quantity which it will carry; whether the
team can draw the load, is not a consideration-for those who travel on
plank roads affirm that the only danger is that the wagon can not bear
the load, not that the horse can not draw it.
"A  good instance of what can be accomplished may be related of the
Western Road, which commences at Albany. A farmer who had a large
timbered farm, having sold the wood, carted it to the side of the plank
road, and piled it. His contract was to take the wood into Albany, a distance of eleven miles, at 1-50 dollars per cord for hauling. With a single
team-his load consisted of a cord and a half, and having engaged to transport plaster for a miller, at 75 cents the ton, he loaded his wagon for
the return trip, which was weighed in the usual manner for the adjustment
of the carrying account. The ordinary load was three tons. The trips
backward and forward were easily made in a day. Thus his receipts
were
Dollars.
Cartage 12' cord of hard wood, at 1'50 dollars........... 2-25
3 tpns of plaster, at 75 cents............................. 2-25
4'50
Payment of tolls, 11 miles each way, 22 at 01' dollars..  33
Return per diem.................................  4-17
"That great loads can be drawn on Macadam roads (or metal roads,
as they are often called in America) can not be called in question, but at
the same time it is to be remarked that, on the first construction at least,
the resistance to the tractive power will be greater than on the smooth,
even, compact surface of the plank. A period must even intervene before
the metal becomes solid: and those who have at all watched how metal
roads are influenced, admit the necessity of constant repairs.  In and
about large towns the main Macadamized avenues have annually to be
covered with an entire coat of metal, and the road, to be kept in order, has
constantly to be watched from the day the stone is first placed upon it.
"Thus, independently of the difference of surface of the best metal road
306 
-~~~~~APEDX              0
and of the ordinary plank road, constant repairs increase the resistance.
When newly laid, the resistance for heavy trains on the latter has been
calculated variously at 1 in 98, and at 1 irn 70, while that of the stone
road in perfect condition is named at 1 in 67. But while the plank road
for at least two years after it has been laid down retains an equality of
surface, the stone road is never in such order that so low a ratio of resistance can be received.   In ordinary condition, the resistance of 1 in 25 is
received. Taking a mean of the two, we may call the average resistance
of the Macadam road 1 in 46.
"To recapitulate, we have the two resistances.
"On the plank road 1 in 70.
" On the Macadam road 1 in 46.
"Nor can it be said that this comparison is much exaggerated. Even
those who differ from it supply data but little less favorable. The comparison even continues as both roads are worn. On the Macadam road
the detritus, which in dry weather finds vent in dust, in wet weather
exercises considerable resistance, so -that whatever inequalities exist are
felt in all weathers. Whereas on the plank road, in dry weather, the
cavities which are worn are traversed imperceptibly by the tire, for they
are closed up by the indurated sand and earth deposited on the surface.
But in wet weather it is not so-the sand softened by water offers no resistance to the tire, which sinks down to the worn plank. And as in pine
roads the surface is generally worn with regularity, although inferior to a
new road, there is nothing strikingly objectionable in it, after it has been
somewhat worn.
"Some comparison can therefore be made between a Macadam road
and a plank road in that state. In dry weather the planks, being protected by the sand placed over them, present a hard regular surface;
while on the Macadam road whatever is bad is felt by the traveler without
counterbalancing influences. Nor in wet weather is the plank much deteriorated. For so long as the planks are firmly fixed and do not spring,
there is little increased friction; but with regard to Macadamized roads,
independently of ruts and holes, the resistance is increased by the pulverized stone, formed by the water into an adhesive matter; so much so,
that a word has been appropriated to denote this state. Thus, to speak
of'heavy roads' is to convey a clear and definite meaning. It is therefore apparent that, in pursuing the inquiry to what extent the tractive
power is impeded on each class of road, in the different stages of newly
laid and out of repair, the superior advantages of the plank road become
fully established.
"Some attempt has been made to draw comparisons between the time
APPENDIX.
307 
APPENDIX.
a horse will last on a Macadam and on a plank road. It has been asserted that horses traveling mostly or occasionally over plank roads are ruined
before their time. But it will be found that this opinion rests altogether
upon what is observed to occur, either when the plank surface is badly
constructed, or where the power of the animal is mismanaged.  If, for
instance, the stringers are laid without care, the percolations of the water
increase the defect, and any weight passing over the road is succeeded by
a rebound, varying with the velocity of the passage; and it is this rebound
or elasticity which operates perniciously on the horse. It is only necessary
for a man to run some little distance on a causeway having this defect, and
he will feel at once the difference between a well and ill-constructed road.
"Mismanagement is a principal and frequent cause of deterioration of
the horse's vitality and endurance. Owing to the trifling resistance encountered on a plank road, and the consequent ease with which a great
weight is drawn, drivers, without noting the rate at which they travel,
press their horses beyond their strength. The axiom has long been received that it is speed, not weight, which destroys the horse.'It is the
pace that kills.' The argument against the plank road derived from this
observation, and making its inference from the very excellence of the road,
is palpably vicious. On the Albany road two gentlemen in a hired buggy
with an ordinary hack, went a distance of twelve miles out, and returned.
This was in the month of April last, at the breaking up of the winter,
when the other roads were nearly impassable. The distance between two
gates, five miles, was performed at the usual natural gait, without the
animal being in the least kept up to his work, in twenty-three minutes
going, and twenty-seven minutes returning. On their return to Albany,
the horse evinced no signs of fatigue.
" In reality, there is nothing to warrant the inference that the horse is
a sufferer on a well-made plank road. On the contrary, it may be said,
without  contradiction,  that  the horse, when  not pressed beyond his
strength, can work longer and be always in better condition on a plank
road than on any road whatsoever.
" Sufficient data are at hand to form a proximate ratio of the superior
advantages of the plank road.
"The preponderance in favor of the plank road, as compared with a
common country road, may be stated as ranging from 2- to 1, to 6 to 1varying with the season and the locality. The former ratio may be considered to denote the average comparison, at the commencement  of the
bad season, on gravelly soils-the latter, where the road passes through
heavy sand.  Farmers take a cord and a half of green wood, in place of
half and three-quarters of a cord; 80 bushels of rye, and 100 bushels of
308 
APPENDIX.                   309
oats, when, formerly, they carried 40 and 50 bushels; 200 plank in the
place of 80 to 90. This is done at the rate of four miles an hour; whereas,
three miles an hour, when the road was in tolerable order, was considered
rapid traveling with a team.
A manufacturer of Utica formerly transported from the railroad to his
establishment-a distance of seven miles-ten bales of cotton per day,
with two teams, which made, each, but one daily trip; but on the recently
constructed plank road, one team performs the journey twice, delivering
fifteen bales daily. The average weight of a bale of cotton is 5 cwt.;
therefore, one team is now equal to the work of 75 cwt., while on the old
road it was equal only to 25 cwt. These loads must be considered fair
average burdens, without the energies of the horse being unfairly taxed.
On a level, Macadam English road, writers agree that the extreme weight
of draught for a single horse, in perfect condition, is 3100 lbs.-and that
'to place on more becomes a cruelty,' which would give the maximum
power of traction to a team of 6200 lbs. That such is inferior to the
amount which has been carried on a plank road, without distressing the
horses, the incident of six tons taken on the Salina road is a proof.
While, therefore, we take 3 to 32 tons as a medium load on a plank
road, we may assume 2 tons to be fair draught on the Macadam roadthe same time to be made by each. 
"These calculations would give a ratio of 3 to 2 in favor ofthe plankroad.
Mr. Gillespie, in his work on roads, rates the difference at twice as much.
"COMPARATIVE COST OF THE TWO ROADS.
"The next inquiry is the comparative cost of plank and Macadam roads.
This, of course, will vary with localities. Known results in one region
will assist in forming estimates for another.
"It is stated in the Report of the Commissioners of Board of Works of
Canada, for the year ending 1848, that the average cost of the fifty-six
miles of Macadamized road under the jurisdiction of the Montreal Turnpike
Trustees, was 3462 dollars per mile. Two miles were laid by way of experiment, costing 3233 dollars per mile-the lowest price at which any
Macadam road was made-the greatest cost being 4888 dollars.  But on
this road, extending seven miles from Montreal to Lachine, there was
heavy cutting on two hills. The repairs for the last eight years have
been, annually, 200 dollars a mile-about 32  of the original cost.  At
Quebec, the average cost of thirty-one miles, was 3600 dollars per mile;
the repairs amounting per mile, annually, to 165  dollars —{- of the
APPENDIX.
309 
310                   APPENDIX.
whole cost. On the Port Hope road, the repairs per mile were 300 dollars; on the road from Toronto to Springfield, 511 dollars; but this road
is described as worn out in many places. Therefore, the cost of a Macadamized road may be safely assumed at 3400 dollars per mile, with-the
necessity of an annual expenditure of about 130 dollars per mile.
"The cost of a plank road depends on contingencies, but may be stated,
with tolerable accuracy, to range from 1200 dollars to 2000 dollars per
mile, where there is no extraordinary item of expenditure, and according
as the road may be built of hard wood-maple or hemlock.
" For the sake of establishing a comparison, a medium cost, 17 50 dollars per mile, is assumed.
"The repairs which a plank road will need for the first two years ought
to be trifling. To a great extent, at this early period, they depend upon
the mode in which the road has been constructed. If it has been well
kept up and well drained, and the sleepers have been carefully ]-aid, there
is little fear of the road settling, nor will any of the plank become loose.
Even on roads built before experience had pointed out a good mode of construction, the repairs were not a heavy charge. The Chambly and Longueil road, Canada-East, was laid down in 1841, with white pine, which
generally lasted about four years. It has since been renewed, and the
road has been more carefully constructed; and there is a reasonable expectation that it will last seven years. The ordinary annual repairs have
been 7' dollars a mile.  It is not possible to give the exact traffic, as the
tolls for sixteen miles are farmed out for 5220 dollars per annum. It can
not be Considered, by any means, that this road is too favorable a criterion,
for it was among the first built on the continent.
"WHAT PLANK ROADS DO FOR THE FARMER.
"The farmer has what he never had before, a good road every day in
the year, the same in all seasons.   Formerly, the spring and fall were
periods when the avenues to the neighboring city were closed to him.   On
the plank road, he can select for his journey days when he can not work
on the farm, taking with greater ease, in half the time, three times what
he formerly could carry  and while residing close to the road, he sees his
neighbor, living five miles off, bringing two wagons to the planks, and
then transferring the contents into the larger, and moving off with it-he
can load his single vehicle with the full amount it can carry, and proceed
onward without delay. His woodlands acquire, intrinsically, a value which
they had not before, for he can cart sufficiently in one load to pay him for
APPENDIX.
310 
APPENDIX.                    311
the expense of carting and cutting, allowing a faix value for his timber.
His farm increases in value from 10 to 50 per cent, and commands a sale
from the fact that the produce never lacks a market, and has a more regular and higher net value.  By the current price, he knows what he can
count upon. His grain is worth what all grain fetches in the next market,
deducting the cost of cartage to take it there, which he can calculate to a 
cent, and deliver when he needs money. The adjoining tannery (and the
probability is that there is one within twenty miles) will buy his bark.
His cord wood can be carried the same distance.  He sells, for remunerating
prices, his perishable produce, such as vegetables and fruit, pumpkins, cornstalks, and fall apples, which brought him previously a very small sum, as
the only market was in the small villages where there was little demand
for them.
"The wear and tear to his horse, harness, and vehicle is reduced at least
one-half. The tolls not only pay themselves in this saving, but even
leave a surplus in the pocket of the farmer, which would otherwise have
been spent on repairs. Horse-shoes last twice the time. Insteadof frequent
new shoes, it is only necessary to have the old ones periodically renewed.
The very labor of cleaning the horse comes into calculation; one farmer
assuring the writer that in very bad weather, setting aside all question of
increase of load and saving of time, he would sooner pay the tolls than
have to rub down his horses in the state they used to be after travel on
the old road.
"The price of cartage having generally been reduced where plank roads
have been laid down, it becomes an inquiry, whether it is at the cost of
the teamster. Some instances are given in a former part of this brochure,
and we will adduce two others, to show that the increase of load carried,
and the time made, more than counterbalance any reduction of price.
" On the Taberg and Rome road, there is a furnace, nine miles from Rome,
from which furnace to the canal at Rome 1-25 dollars per ton was formerly paid for carting. The load each way was precisely one ton, equal to
two tons per day at 1-25 dollars, giving 2-50 dollars for the day's work.
Now, the price allowed is 0'75 dollars; but the teamster takes two and
a half tons each way, equal to five tons per day, at
Dollars.
0'75=3-75
25
Deducting toll for eighteen miles, say..........
3'50
Being an increase of one dollar in the daily wages of the teamster.
APPENDLX.
311 
APPENDIX.
"The Rome and Turin road passes through a dairy country, and cheese
and butter are brought by it to the canal, where they are shipped. Formerly farmers brought 1500 lbs. to the canal, and took two days to go and
return: now they cart from forty to fifty cwt. and return the same day.
The smallest load carried is thirty-six tubs of butter. A farm, ten miles
off from a city, is almost as near as one only a mile from it; the surplus
distance being in calculation convertible into time. But at a more extended distance, say one hundred miles, it is worth while examining how the
plank road can compete with the railroad. Canals being main links of
water communication, do not suggest themselves as a matter of inquiry.
But many vegetable products now find their way to market by the railroad  and if it can be established that a farmer, using his own motive
power on the plank road, can travel at half the cost, a very essential benefit is established.
"Thus it is evident that the farmer does his own business, to his own
satisfaction, with a wagon to make a return trip, bringing back all his
family may require from the city; such as a quintal of cod-fish, a chest of
tea, a barrel of pork, flour, and assorted articles, cheaper than he could buy
them at a country store; together with the experience of his trip, and the
information picked up at the inns where he has stopped; and all for exactly
half the cost if he had sent by railroad and had his business done by an
agent. It is pre-supposed that the farmer can be absent from his farm,
without injury to himself.
"On Sunday the farmer can go to church with regularity, which was not
always'possible in the fall, when the church was one-fourth of a mile from
the farm. He can live with more friendliness with his neighbors-for the
plank roads have led to an increased intercourse between families. Socially,
the farmer becomes a better and a wiser man.  He can meet people of his
own pursuits more frequently, and converse upon prices current and improved modes of farmning. He learns what is new, and what benefits any
particular experiment has led to. In case of sickness, relief can be obtained readily, and with dispatch; and if medical skill can save the-head
of a family or a young wife, the physician can be soon brought to the
bedside.
" Indeed, all the advantages which result from a road of superior excellence accrue to the farmer. There is nothing which so much retards improvement as imperfect communications.'Of all inventions,' says one of
the greatest writers* of the day,' the alphabet and printing-press alone
excepted, those inventions which abridge distance have done most for civ
* Macaulay. History of England, Chap. III.
312 
APPkNDIX.                    313
ilization. Every improvement of the means of locomotion benefits mankind, morally and intellectually, as well as materially; and not only facilitates the interchange of the various productions of nature and art, but
tends to remove national and provincial antipathies, and to bind together
all th( branches of the great human family.'
"If ever such a remark could be directly applied, it is to the sections
traversed by plank roads. The family, instead of periodical visits to the
neighboring city, are continually passing to and fro. The change, the bustle, the animation, all have their influence. The farmer sees other farmns,
finds them perhaps better fenced than his own, better cultivated, and better'cleaned off.' A spirit of emulation is excited in him, and his outbuildings and fences gradually acquire a greater air of neatness. The comforts of the city make the want of them to be painfully felt in his own
homestead, and his wife and daughters are awakened to exertion by the
contrast. His dress is marked by a greater air of neatness. The same
can be said of the female members of the family. Indeed, in all the ramifications of life, the contrast with civilization, brought about by improved
communication, causes itself to be felt. In a word, the farmer learns that
there is such a thing as progress.
"A gentleman, who was among the first to introduce these roads into
the country, remarked to the writer, concerning a road which it is obviously not necessary to name:'The farms are no longer the same-the proprietors have cleaned them; pulling out the stumps, erecting better fences,
and generally improving their property; some even, at their own expense,
have run plank roads to their lots, to assist the draught of the horses. The
people too are changed, dress better, look better-their manners are better.
Their wives and daughters are no longer the same persons. They have
improved wonderfully.'
" Such are the results that have in every instance attended the introduction of plank roads.
"WHAT PLANK ROADS DO FOR THE STOCKHOLDER.
"The tolls authorized to be collected in the State of New York, by the
Plank Road Law, are not to exceed one cent and a half per mile for a
vehicle drawn by two animals; and one half cenft per mile for every additional animal; for every vehicle drawn by one animal, three-quarters of a
cent per mile, and for each horse and rider, or led horse, half a cent per
mile. In the original enactment, the profits of the road were limited to a
dividend of ten per cent., and the appropriation of ten per cent. as a sinking
O
APPENDIX.
313 
APPENDIX.
fund. But this clause was repealed in 1849; so the above tolls can be
levied irrespective of profits.
"There are, however, some non-paying exceptions, such as jurors,
witnesses, troops, and travelers attending religious meetings.
" With the above rates, the profits of existing companies have been
made, and the best criterion of the character of the stock is to examine
what these profits have been.
'Some few companies depart from  the rates prescribed, and charge
less; taking six and a quarter cents for the five miles. Some companies
agree with the farmers to charge the distance per mile they live from the
gate. These cases are exceptions to the general rule.
" Among the many roads constructed in the State, some few have been
built more as the means of opening up the communication than as an investment. In these, farmers have freely subscribed. But, throughout
the State, it can be asserted positively that the stock of no plank road is
below par. Nor can any stock be bought, except from individuals who are
pressed for money, and, in common with plank-road stock, have to sell
other property to obtain it.
"Where the travel is limited, the plank will of itself decay, and need
restoration, without a sufficiency of receipts to pay for restoring it. But
from such a postulate, no deduction can flow. A road, to be remunerative, must first be required. A good road increases travel; but there
must be other causes to create it.
"ON THE FACILITIES OF TRAVEL GIVEN BY PLANK ROADS.
"There is some difficulty in instituting a comparison between a plank
road and a railroad.   Both have their distinct uses.   The railroad is important to the manufacturer, the miner, the metal founder, who have to
send their fabrics and their coal and iron a distance from their localities,
the means of doing which they have to hire; and the numerous class of
travelers who desiring to be carried with dispatch, must seek a public con-:
veyance. The plank road is for an agricultural population, and for the
accommodation of those who, having cattle, need not incur the expense of
motive power. To lay greater stress on the utility of the one, the circum.
stances of the comparison must be given..
"To examine the difference of cost, we can refer to the Annual Report
of Railroad Statistics for the State of New York, made to the Legislature,
20th February, 1850. We learn in this document, that the whole amount
which has been expended on the 1201 miles of railroad in the State, to
314 
APPENDIX.
set them in operation, is 46,604,921 dollars, giving an average per mile
of 38,805 dollars for construction and about eight years' repairs. The
cost of construction and of eight years' repairs on the plank road may be
assumed at 3106 dollars.
"The average pace of railway passenger trains is twenty-three miles
an hour, and of freight trains fourteen miles an hour. The fare is about
two cents per mile for long distances, and from three to six for short dis
tances.
"On the plank road a stage-horse can travel from eighteen to twenty
miles a day, at the rate of seven to nine miles an hour.
"It is, therefore, evident, that traveling at the rate of seven to nine
miles per hour, is performed on the plank road at three cents per mile.
"We have then these results:
" The cost of the railroad is at least twelve times as great as that of
the plank road.
"That travel for short distances can be done for less on the plank road
than on the railroad.
"In average distances, the fare on the plank road is three cents per
mile, while on the railroad the fare is from* two to two and a half cents
per mile:-nevertheless, in one instance the stage fare has been less than
on the railroad.
" Time is the only strong point of view favorable to the railroad, and it
is found that the distance can be performed in one-third the time on the
railroad of what it can be made on the plank road.
"Whether to gain this advantage such an additional expense ought to
be incurred, can not be considered by the writer, abstractedly; but one
fact is certain, that in an agricultural country it is manifestly to the greatest benefit of the farmer to hare a well-laid causeway on which he can
use his own motive power in bringing his produce to market.
"Plank roads are the feeders of railroads and canals, and are not inferior
to either in their particular uses. In some instances, indeed generally in
manufacturing districts, speed is indispensable. But economy of transport
t  an agricultural section of country, is the main point.  In arformer part
of this work it was shown that the farmer can successfully compete with
a railroad within one hundred miles of the- market; therefore, it would
seem that the plank road is of more utility to him. And it has this in
"* It must be recollected that the grades on these roads vary from 250 to 350 feet in a
mile, and therefore can not be taken as a minimum price at which travel can be performed. It is possible, if the grades of the roads were reduced to a maximum of 150 in the
mile, that the expense of transporting passengers and merchandise would be from onehalf to two-thirds the present price."
315 
316                   APPENDIX.
fluence upon his property, that it raises it considerably in value-a remnark
which does not apply to the same extent to railroads.
"There are a class of travelers who turn aside from the railroad.  The
Erie Canal statistics prove this sufficiently. Men of quiet temperament
whp dislike the bustle and excitement, and not being in great haste to
arrive at their destination, take other conveyances.
"That this class will increase when plank roads have been longer
established, there is reason to believe.
:' CONSTRUCTION.
': Where there is only a single track required, it is not the custom to
lay the plank in the centre of the causeway; generally, the left-hand side
of the road leading from the city is selected, by which arrangement loaded
vehicles coming into the city have the right of way. Running parallel to
the planks the road is carefully made, and the name by which it is now
known indicates its use. It is called the'turn off.' Necessarily, it ought
to be kept in sufficient repair-since vehicles going in either direction take
the plank, and those not having the right of way, abandon it when meeting a vehicle which has.
"For ordinary travel, a single plank track is sufficient-an assertion
fully proved by very few roads having a double track.   But if the press of
business renders a double track necessary, it ought to be laid down in two
tracks of eight feet, not in a single track of sixteen feet.  The best mode
is first to lay down a single track, and if found insufficient in any particular locality, such as the immediate approach to a city, another one can of
course, be added.
"The cost of the several roads varies. This is attributable to the difference of the amount paid for surveying, right of way, grading and laying
plank-the prices of lumbers and the expense of bridging, &c. The lumber
which has been principally used is hemlock and white pine, until within
the last few months, when hard wood has somewhat come into use, with~
a fair expectation of proving more suitable. On the Salina and Syracuse
road, beech and maple have been laid, and on the Rochester road some
elm-the latter not exceeding twelve inches in width.
"The principal experiments have been made with hemlock, and it has
been proved that it is not the best fitted for the purpose. It is loose
grained and knotty-consequently, the plank soon wears away, stringing
off from friction, leaving hard knots standing erect. Independently of the
rugged surface which these knots present, they may be classed among the
APPENDIX.
316 
APPENDIX.
principal causes which lead to the destruction of the road, for as the shoe
of the horse strikes the knot it slips from it, and a cavity is made. White
pine, which has been used, has the advantage of being free from knots.
"But it is argued that this wood is liable to decay. All lumber used
on a road will undoubtedly decay of itself-even should it remain without
any traffic passing over it. Two influences work upon the plank: the
damp from below causing mildew, while the upper part is alternately
drenched with water, and exposed to the burning heat of the sun. An
examination of a plank long in use, is sufficient evidence of this fact.
Against some of the influences it is not possible to guard, and they come
under the head of wear and tear. But good construction will do much to
obviate others.
"In the advertisements for the plank road timbers great care has been
taken to specify that the plank has to be sawed out of sound timber, free
from wane sap, rottenness, knot holes, and excessive knottiness.  Still
these precautions are valueless where the timber is naturally imperfect, and
in spite of the fears that pine becomes'dozy,' yellow pine is a durable
wood, free from knots, and is, therefore, preferable to hemlock, as it will
keep longer sound.
" The most important point in the construction of plank roads is drainage. Without drainage, however well a road may be otherwise laid, it
can not remain in good order. And a sufficient ditch should be cut, at
least two feet below the crown of road. The road should be well crowned
up, so that the water would readily flow from it, with a firm bed made
for the stringers. Where the soil has been made, a heavy roller (which
can be formed with a portion of the trunk of a large green oak) should be
passed over the roadway, till it is perfectly firm, and the sleeper should be
imbedded in the soil, till the top is on a level with the earth. The
planks then, laid transversely, require to be well mauled, until firmly
settled; care being taken to drive each home to the one laid behind it.
"The mode of laying down stringers varies with the soil  and on this
point there is some difference of opinion.  It is generally conceded, however, that sand does not require so heavy a stringer as clay.  On the
Salina and Syracuse road, in order to insure thorough and effective drainage, a transverse fall of two inches has been given to the planks. With
such a declivity, the load is unequally divided, and the weight falls heavier
on the lower, in the proportion of 3100 lbs. to 2900 lbs. in a load of three
tons. Independently of this pressure against the lower linch-pin and hub
of the wheel, it is urged, that it is advisable to make the lower scantling
(or stringer) double that of the upper, in order to guard against the increased pressure on the lower side of the road."
317 
APPENDIX.
WISCONSIN.
BY DANIEL S. CURTISS, ESQ., OF THE UNITED STATES.
AN early copy having been sent to me of Mr. Curtiss's " Western Portraiture," published in America within the last month, I hasten to present
my reader with some passages relative to Wisconsin, as confirmnatory of the
opinions I had previously formed on the subject, and which I have embodied
in the present volume.
"From the best authorities, it appears that the earliest visits of white
men to the territory that now forms the State of Wisconsin, was in 1654,
made by some French traders,' from Montreal to Lake Superior. The first
white settlement was made in 1665, by Claude Allouez and others, at
Lapointe, on an island of the same name, in the western end of that lake;
and a few years before the establishment of the settlement at Puans
(Green) Bay.  According to the authorities quoted by Bancroft, Schoolcraft, and others, those settlements were made in 1665 and 1669   and in
1673, Father J. Marquette, accompanied by Joliet, went up the Nenah
(Fox) River, passed the short portage of a mile or two into the Wisconsin
River, then descended it to the Mississippi, which they reached in June of
that year. The Legislature have named one of the counties, near that
portage, Marquette, after that adventurer, one of the first, who ever saw
that mighty stream.
"In 1679, La Salle made a voyage up the lakes, in the first vessel ever
built above Niagara Falls; he called it the'Griffon!' and he has claimed
to be the first white man who ever saw the Mississippi; but this is disputed, as Bancroft declares that IH. de Soto was the first European  that
discovered the'Father of Waters,' and crossed it in 1541. The'Griffon'
is said to have been a plain, substantial little schooner, of some sixty tons
burden, and carrying five small guns. On the 7th of August, 1679, she
sailed from Niagara with thirty-four men, bound for the western lakes, and
reached Mackinaw the last of the month; on the 2d of September she
sailed again for Green Bay. At that port she was laden with peltries;
and on the 18th of the same month, La'Salle put her in charge of the
pilot and five men, and sent her back again; but they never reached their
destination, vessel and crew having perished, which was a severe loss to
La Salle, as the vessel and cargo had cost him about 60,000 livres. Still,
he and his comrades continued their voyage up the coast of Lake Michigan
318 
APPENDIX.
in canoes to the mouth of Chicago River, where they erected a fort; and
shortly afterward Father Hennepin, with others, passed from that river into
the OPlain, then the Illinois, and down that river to the Mississippi.
" Wisconsin constituted a portion of New France, under French authority
till 1763, when it was surrendered to Great Britain.  In 1783, a settlement was began at Prairie du Chien, by Giard, Autaya, and Dubuque,
near the site of the earlier French settlement.  In 1819 Governor Cass
explored the northern country; during which year the garrisons of Prairie
du Chien and St. Peter's were established. In 1823 Major Long explored
the samne region; and in 1832 an expedition under Schoolcraft passed
through the country. In 1836 it was organized under a territorial government, with the title of Wisconsin Territory.
" This was a Territory, under one authority or another, from 1787 to
1847, when it became an independent State of the Union, making the
twenty-ninth star in that galaxy of political existences, whose light is seen
throughout Christendom, and whose influence is felt wherever the breezes
have carried paper and powder. In fertility of soil, comfort of climate, and
all other natural facilities of successfil agricultural operations, Wisconsin
is scarcely behind any of her sister States; and perhaps is surpassed by
none in the rapidity with which her population has increased during the
last eight or ten years, and their intelligence. In 1840 the population
was something over 20,000; in 1845 it was about five times that, say,
115,000; and in 1850 the census shows it to be 305,528.
" I take the following boundary of this State from'Darby's Gazetteer',
of 1845:                          -
"' Wisconsin Territory of the U.S., if taken in extenso, is bounded on the
N. by the British territories; by Mississippi River, W.; Illinois, S.; and by
Lake Michigan, the northwestern part of the State of Michigan, and Lake
Superior, E. In latitude it extends from 42~ 30' to 49~ N., and in longitude from 10~ to 180 30' W. of Washington. Measured by the rhombs,
the area comes out so near that we may assume 80,000 square miles.
This region comprises the northwestern part of the original U.S. domain
by the treaty of 1783. From S.E. to N.W. by a diagonal line, the length
falls but little short of 600 miles. The breadth is about 160 miles.
"' That portion of Wisconsin, organized and subdivided into counties is
bounded E. by Lake Michigan; N.W. by Green Bay, Fox, and Wisconsin
rivers; W., or rather S.W., by Mississippi River; and S. by the State of
Illinois. In latitude it extends from 42~ 30' to 45~ 20', and in longitude
from 10~ to 14~ 5' W. of Washington.   From the S.W. angle, on Mississippi River, to the N.E. point between Green Bay and Lake Michigan, the
length is 280 miles. The breadth varies from near 100 to a mere point;,
311.9 
APPENDIX.
area about 11;500 square miles. The face of the country is rather waving
than either hilly or flat, though both extremes exist. It is a territory in a
remarkable manner supplied with navigable streams. Fox River, flowing
into Green Bay, and Wisconsin, into Mississippi River, approach each other
so near as to leave but a short portage between their channels. The high er branches of Rock River rise in Wisconsin, and flow into the State of
Illinois.
"It has a coast of about 200 miles on Lake Michigan, over which flow
some small streams, but the shallowness of the water of the lake precludes
any harbor admitting vessels of more than very moderate draught. The
rivers afford much more extensive navigable facilities than does the lake.
"'The town of Madison, on what is called the Four Lakes, is the capi tal of the Territory. This town is situated at N. latitude 43~ 5', and lon gitude 12~ 12' W. of Washington, and almost directly S. of the portage
between Wisconsin and Fox rivers; distance about 40 miles, and about 140
miles a little N. of N.W. from Chicago.'
"Something of the climate and winters of Wisconsin maybe judged by
the following statement of the clearing and opening of the harbor, at Milwaukie, for some ten years past. The freezing up of the harbor, during
that time, varied from as early as November 15th, to as late as the 1st of
December.
"In the spring it has opened, some years as early the first week in March,
and at others not till as late as about the middle of April.
"The township organization system prevails throughout most of Wisconsin, very similar to that in the State of New York; most of the counties have adopted the system.
"No argument is needed to show moneyed men that the West is a more
advantageous place to loan their funds than the East-that money can be
let at higher interest and oftener turned, and always in active demand on
safe securities; for this is all very well known, and is so generally remarked, that it has grown into a proverb. It is because there is much land and
little money in the West-the country being new, filled up with recent
settlers, who are nearly all engaged in making improvements, which, as
yet, yield but small revenue; and real estate rising more rapidly, and money
scarcer, proportionately, than at the East; the latter being in greater demand, until larger crops are ready for market. So that those having surplus funds, whether to invest in improvements, or to loan, will readily see
that it is to their interest to locate in the West, for the highest profitable
operations.
"In Central and Western New York real estate increased in value more
rapidly-after the opening of the Erie Canal and some of the railroads,
320 
APPENDIX.                    321
bringing the products with speed and cheapness to market-in proportion,
than it did at the East. In like manner, and for the same reasons, will
property be enhanced in value in the States west of the lakes, above those
on the Atlantic; so ample now are the means of communication between
the seaboard and the frontier country.
"In conversation, a short time since, with an extensive grain and flour
dealer of a Western State, my attention was calles more forcibly to the
contrast between the time occupied a few years ago and that required at
the present day to take a barrel of flour from Wisconsin or Illinois, and return the necessary merchandise. Then, two to four weeks were occupied,
each way; now it only takes some six to ten days; and soon, when the
whole line of railroads now commenced shall be completed, only two or
three days will be consumed in the passage between New York and Chicago, or Milwaukie. And what is better, decided cheapness, too, is attained in this rapid transit. But that is not all, nor even the greatest advantage, resulting to the western settler by this speedy transportation;i his
chief benefit gained by it, is the increased price secured to him for his products-a price approximating very close to the prices of New York and
Philadelphia.
" All who know any thing about it, understand very well that the prices
at the West depend altogether upon the eastern market; and the longer the
time which transpires between the sale and the date at which the articles
reach that market, the wider must be the margin and fluctuations in the
prices, and greater must be the hazards and contingencies, all of which the
purchasers are bound to take into the account when buying the western
commodities; as prices at the time of his buying are liable to fall at the
East, before those products reach their destination.   But when the transit
is quicker-reduced to two or three days-these chances of decline in prices,
and all the risks, are much diminished, and the insurance is less, so that the
produce speculator can very safely venture to pay prices much nearer the full
eastern value.
"Under these circumstances, western lands must be greatly enhanced
in actual value; increased in a ratio decidedly greater than the eastern
lands, when taking into the account the respective prices at which both are
now held, the former realizing nearly as high profits as the latter, while the
cost of producing is vastly in favor of the western farmer-which proves
the wisdom of investing in and improving western real estate, while it may
be obtained for low prices; as the astonishing progress making in transit
facilities is constantly hastening the time of an equilibrium in land value
East and West. And when we consider the wonderful productiveness and
easy tillage of western soils. even at the same cost per acre, the profit of
o*
APPENDIX.
321 
APPENDIX.
the capital invested is nearly or quite as great in the one location as the
other.
"The river floods, an event of great sublimity, and characteristic of the
Wvvest, occurring annually, are forcibly described in Mr. Thomson's Letters.
Memorable and destructive floods occurred on the Mississippi and Illinois
rivers, in 1832 and 1846:
'"' Observing some warehouses surrounded with water, from which boats
were taking in their freight, we concluded that the owners had hit upon
this expedient for the convenience of those engaged in transportation; but
we were presently informed that in ordinary stages of the water these
warehouses stood high and dry upon the levee, and that what seemed to
be the bed of a wide, flowing river, was usually a bottom-the name given
to a low tract of land, meadow or timbered, on the margin of a river, and
intervening between its channel and the b]uffs or high grounds denoting its
ancient bed. Some of these warehouses were surrounded with water, to
the depth of ten or twelve feet.  Indeed I was assured that at one time the
water rose fourteen feet in twenty-four hours, and some 3000 sacks of
grain, stored in a new warehouse, built quite above the old high-water
mark, were destroyed in a single night.
"' As we proceeded down the river we saw on every hand the desolations
of the flood. In nearly every river-town the street fronting the river was
overflowed, and stores and dwellings were submerged to the depth of tena
or twenty feet. In some places large and cultivated farms were entirely
under water; the stock, crops, fences, every thing destroyed. The loss falls
most severely on the poor woodmen, who occupy log-cabins on the river
bottoms, and earn their living by supplying the boats with wood; the
whole winter's work of many has been swept away in an hour, while they
and their families have been obliged to leave their huts and flee for refuge
to the bluffs, at a distance often of several miles. At some points the river
is expanded from an average width of half a mile to the breadth of eight to
ten miles from bluff to bluff. We saw several cabins and houses, of which
the roofs only were above the water. But I have since seen so much
greater desolations on the Mississippi, that these seem almost of no ac
count.
"'A western steamboat is at first sight a novelty to one familiar only
with eastern models. The boats on the western waters are very slightly
built, mnere shells of pine, shallow, long, narrow, flat bottomed, open and
flaring on all sides, just as represented in Banvard's panorama. There is
no cabin either below the deck or upon it.
"' Most of the boats have good cabins and well furnished saloons, both
for ladies and gentlemen, beside state-rooms.
322 
APPENDIX.                    23
"' The engines are placed immediately on the lower deck, two huge furnaces flaming upon you as you enter the boat, and giving you rather uncomfortable hints of a choice between fire and water in making your exit
from the world.
"'Huge flaming brands and coals are dropping continually upon the
thinnest possible sheathing of sheet-iron, in many places worn through to
the plank; heated pipes, on which you can not bear your hand, are in immediate contact with boards as dry as tinder, and perhaps already charred;
goods, you know not how inflammable, are strewn promiscuously round the
boilers, while huge piles of dry pine-wood, waiting to be consumed, are
crowded in the vicinity of the fires. But not every traveler has the habit
that I confess to, of prying into every thing about him, and therefore few
probably enjoy the peculiar sensation of sailing on the rim of a volcano.
However, there is nothing like getting used to it, and I learned to sleep
quite soundly.
"'The cabin is up-stairs, and extends nearly the whole length of the
deck, over which it is perched upon sundry posts, that seem too frail for a
summner's breeze; this is divided into a long, narrow saloon, from stem to
stern, and a row of state-rooms on either hand. An apartment for ladies
is curtained off at one extremity, while the main saloon is used for meals,
conversation, promenading, card-playing, and whatsoever one may list.
The kitchen, pantry, bar, &c., are all contiguous to the saloon; with every
convenience for life above stairs, so that passengers may spend days in and
around this saloon, without knowing any thing of the deck-life below.
Some of the state-rooms, that open both into the saloon and upon the
guard, are very airy and pleasant. If, however, there is any deficiency in
regard to neatne's and comfort, it is in this department of the boat.  We
took passage in the'Prairie State,' one of the best boats on the river.
The furniture was neat, and the table excellent, always excepting the preponderance of grease in western cookery.  But the ideas of civilization exhibited in the state-rooms reminded me of Dr. Bushnell's discourse on
Barbarism as the first danger of the West, a sermon that contained some
of the truest of his paradoxes. In a cozy chat with the captain, I found
him a clever, polite, and attentive gentleman.
"' The scenery of the Illinois River is rather low and monotonous, but
sufficiently picturesque to arrest the eye of a stranger. It savored of the
romantic to sail at times through the woods, the water spreading indefi
nitely among the trees, and in the middle of the stream to bring up at the
second story of a house, that seemed to say,'For freight or passage apply
within.'
"Peoria is the most beautiful town on the river.  Situated on rising
323
APPENDIX. 
324                   APPENDiX.
ground, a broad plateau extending back from the bluff, it has escaped the
almost universal inundation. Indeed, the river here expands into a broad,
deep lake, that embosoms the rising flood. This lake is a most beautiful
feature in the natural scenery of the town, and is as useful as it is beautiful, supplying the inhabitants with ample stores of fish, and in winter with
an abundance of the purest ice. It is often frozen to such a thickness,
that heavy teams and droves of cattle can pass securely over it. A substantial draw-bridge connects the town with the opposite shore. The town
is neatly laid out in rectangular blocks, the streets being wide and well
graded. A public square has been reserved near the present centre. The
place wears quite a New England aspect; its schools and churches are
prosperous, and its society is good.   3ack of the town extends one of the
finest rolling prairies in the State; this region already furnishes to Peoria
its supplies and much of its business, which is destined to increase as
plank roads and like improvements shall bring the producer nearer to the
market. I am struck with the sagacity shown in selecting the sites of
many of these western towns, of which La Salle and Peoria are examples.
May the children of light be equally sagacious in choosing their points of
action and influence for Christ!
"' Traveling on these western waters, throws one into all sorts of society,
and affords a fine opportunity for the study of human nature. I found a
number of emigrants, Irish and German, on the deck, occupying sundry
extempore bunks, and living on their own bread and cheese.
"'These emigrants have a hard life of it.  Poor fare and exposure to
the elements, on the open deck of the boat, often engender disease among
them, and break up families before they reach their destined home. There
should be an active missionary agency on all the rivers of the West. The
deck-hands need such an influence, for they have no Sabbath, and are
fearfully addicted to profaneness and intemperance. Their manner of life
begets a recklessness of death and of all solemn and sacred things. A
man overboard, no unusual event on boats nowhere guarded by a rail, or
a death by cholera, now becoming frequent, make these men callous rather
than thoughtful, and render life and death alike cheap in their estimate.
"'The freedom of the western character and the independence of the
western mind, united with the native love of argumentation in the AngloAmerican race, render it easy to engage men in discussion, to while away
the listless hours of steamboat traveling.' "
THE END.
324
APPENDLX. 
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Analytical Geometry and Calculus.
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Nile Notes of a Howadj'i.
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The Fiftecn Decisive Battles of the World,
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4 HARPER & BROTHERS' LIST OF NEW WOKRS.
A Latin-English Lexicon,
Founded on the larger Latin-German Lexicon of Dr. WILLIAM
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of Gesner, Facciolati, Scheller, Georges, &c. By E. A. AN   DREWS, LL.D. Royal 8vo, Sheep extra, $5 00.
Lamartine's History of the Restoration
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R?obinson's New Testament Lexicon.
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Buttmann's Greek Grammar,
For the Use of High Schools and Universities. By PHILIP
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Comte's Philosophy of Mathematics,
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Louisiana:
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HARPER & BROTHERS' LIST OF NEW WORKS. 5
The Lily and tae Bee:
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eyNayes,   -             --  -   - -
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6 HARPER & BROTHERS' LIST OF NEW WORKS.
The Recent Progress of Astronomy,
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Elements of Natural Philosophy.
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HARPER & BROTHERS' LIST OF NEW WORKS. 7
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8 HARPER & BROTHERS' LIST OF NEW WORKS.
Leigh Hunt's Autobiography,
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History of Greece,
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Hlistory of Rome,
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A Treatise on Popular Education:
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Instruction. 12mo, Muslin, $1 00.
The Conquest of Canada.
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Health, Disease, and Remedy,
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