Jh ~ltl" "l'~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~r:... jii ji~ I ~1,~, ~'~ ~I.~[ I,4 1 ~''', ___'_i":~l~~~~~~~~i~ ~; I~ ~:' ~' ~!,~i,~,!i~,,~?~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~F' ~~ ~'I ~L~,~'~, ~ii ~!,!~i,~~ ii,!~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I Ii "',t''Ft 4,''Fl 44!,'.m''.4''F' ii:~''?;! l'/ I' [I.'''!'' 4ti:F T ~ i'"'''F I,'!'4i';''':'4 1" Flil~!(........ 4'~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I - - t"''""' ""i'! F F F!,,'/, F'' F''~!!'i'"t'''!''':~',"':.' "i___!_!___I' i! I i" lii I'\ " It____'''"4"''' ~,, l', (,il,li iili;Ii~~ ~ It l ji'!L~~tli:,',!'I*,!t, iil,, i'.! Fi',, Fit 4 ~~~~~~~i~~~~~~~~~~~~~i ~~~~ ~i iiii~ ii~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~'i li'lvii~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~. 4\i i,, F~'''44 =r~~~~~~~i I~~~~~~~~ / _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __~~~~~_ _ _ 4~:''_ NEW< AND / I C-T0 DESCRIIPTION OF THE ~~E~~~ i i BOSTON: ______! JOH N A. LEE &CO _ AO I' _ _ _ _ NEW -',i ~~ ~~~~~~ —---- I _-~~~!' B1 f ~~i~,. E I iTH.....~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_ ~~~~ntl ~-......., ~.ir'- ~ —'~~~bS O ~c-~' JOH A LE C. A PICTORIAL DESCRIPTION OF THE UNITED STATES; EMBRACING THE HISTORY, GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION, AGRICULTURAL AND MINERAL RESOURCES, POPULATION, MANUFACTURES, COMMERCE, AND SKETCHES OF CITIES, TOWNS, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ETC., ETC. INTERSPERSED WITH I REVOLUTIONARY AND OTHER INTERESTING INCIDENTS CONNECTE474 THE EARLY SETTLEMENT OF THE COUNTRY. ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. - BOSTON:. JOHN A. LEE & CO.\ No. 5 HARVARD PLACE. 1876. INTRODUCTION. THE history of America has not, like that of the Old World, the charm of classical or romantic associations; but in useful instruction and moral dignity, it has no equal. It is scarce three quarters of a century since this fair and flourishing republic was a colony of England, scarcely commanding the means of existence without the aid of the mother-country, who was herself oppressed by European wars. Our puritan forefathers began in the rough fields of Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut, on a broad, comprehensive principle, which has gone forth to fraternize the world. Our history, therefore, like that poetical temple of fame reared by the imagination of Chaucer, and decorated by the taste of Pope, is almost exclusively dedicated to the memory of the truly great. Within, no idle ornament encumbers its bold simplicity. The pure light of heaven enters from above, and sheds an equal and serene radiance: around. As the eye wanders about its extent, it beholds the unadorned monuments of brave and good men, who have bled or toiled for their country; or it rests on votive tablets inscribed with the names of the blessed benefactors of mankind. The puritans of England-the resolute conquerors of the lakes and forests of the New World-occupied, in the first period of their social existence, the depressed position of a European colony; but the spirit of liberty which had led them to these wild regions, and the gifts of a magnificent and fertile nature, were sufficient to prepare them for their high destiny.* This rude apprenticeship lasted more than one hundred and fifty years before the hour of * We rejoice to see a disposition manifested by the con- perseverance, and the piety, of the little band who reached ductors of the secular press, to sanction the great princi- our shores in the May-Flower. It was there, in the solemn ples of morality and religion, which lie at the foundation of compact into which they entered before leaving their frail social happiness and national prosperity. We have no confi- bark, that we see the incipient steps taken which led on, dence in the stability and success ofanyform of government by a process slow but sure, to the Declaration of Indewhich does not recoganie God "as the Ruler of nations." pendence. There is nothing that rouses our indignation "WAsHINGTON was undoubtedly the man of the age in more effectually, than to hear the miserable prating of which he lived. He was raised up by Providence for the some who have yet to learn the rudiments of our true his. accomplishment of a most important and difficult work. tory, throwing out their sneers, and casting contempt upon But wise and gifted as he was, he would never have those to whom they are indebted for their rich privileges, achieved the sublime results which crowned his efforts, if and whose' shoe's latchet they are not worthy to unloose.' he had not had the best material the world has ever fur- Such a man nished, for laying the foundation of a government, under "' Is t for treason, stratagems, and spoils; whose beneficent influences we have been happy and The motions of his spirit are dull as night, prosperous. Indeed, the germs of our republic may be And his affections dark as Erebus. traced back long prior to the Revolution. They are seen Let no such man be trusted.' " in the spirit, the intelligence, the probity, the indomitable Philadelphia North American. L - - ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ l \Vi INTRODUCTION. change struck; and in the night of the 18th of April, 1775, the cannons of Lexington called a new-born nation to regenerate the world. - The people rose as one man, and turning the ploughshare that tilled the soil into a sword to defend it, thev threw themselves.upon their unjust oppressors, and proclaimed at Philadelphia the immortal principles of self-government, that made tyrants tremble and every generous heart palpitate with joyful hope. At that moment a new name was inscribed on the catalogue of great nations. If not in national importance, it was great by the moral influence it immediately exercised on the world. England, overwhelmed with a debt of one hundred and twenty-eight and a half millions sterling, chargeable with an annual interest of four and a half millions, wished to transfer a portion of the burden to her colonies, and attempted to infringe their rights ry the impositioni of the celebrated stamp-tax. The colonists admitted the justice of all the members of a confederation contributing, according to their ability, to the support of the common government, since the prosperity of each depends on the security and wNell-being of all, but declared they could not and ought not share in the expenses of a war with which they had nothing to do, and a luxurious court which was equally repugnant to their repose and American simplicity. At first England affected to acknowledge the right of the colonies to refuse to pay for faults they had no share in committing; but after the pause of a few years, she renewed her attacks under a different form. With equal firmness America repelled the second attempt to violate her liberties; and England, offended at this unexampled audacity, closed the port of Boston, and kindled the flames of a war which doubled her troublesome debt. Then appeared the host of blazing meteors that illumined the path of our Revolution, and now watch in their high spheres over our safety. They broke the chains of thirteen colonies, and offered to the astonished world the most sublime spectacle of ancient or modern times-the fusion of all races, tongues, and sects, in the one political religion of liberty. The Declaration of Independence found thirteen states and three millions of people; now there are thirty-one states, and a population of twenty-five millions. The whole exterior commerce of the republic, at 1780, amounted to about eight and a half millions annually; now our annual exports exceed one hundred and fifty-eight millions, while our internal commerce is valued at five hundred millions per year, without estimating the home consumption. What a change has the progress of civilization effected on this vast continent during the last two centuries; and what a glorious change to the enlightened mind.* Then a few ill-constructed roads, and the water-courses nature had bestowed, were our only means of intercommunication; now, about ten thousand miles of railway and numerous canals, which embrace, in continuous lines of navigation, thirty thousand miles of lake and river, render the most northern corner of Maine nearer in time to Florida and Mexico than was Boston to Charleston in those days. Steam and the magnetic telegraph have annihilated distance. A few years ago, and the majestic forest spread its wing far and wide, and the Indian was monarch of all he surveyed-traversing its wilds with his spear, or navigating its lakes with his bark canoe. What was once gloomy forests is now beautiful villages and populous cities, teeming with industrious and intelligent inhabitants, ministering to the wants of the mother-country. Our vast prairies are now becoming thrifty farms, and the produce of every climate smiles upon our shores. The application of steam to various purposes has produced wonderful results. America and England are brought withtn a ten-days' voyage, and China will in fifty years be, comparatively, as near as England now is: the whole world will yet be neighbors to each other, and PEACE AND GOOD WILL universally prevail among mankind. In the preparation of the following work, we have found new reason to admire the rapid progress of our own country in population, the arts, and the various institutions which ac* The following passage will realize to our readers the electricity or of the power of steam; scarcely any manuc 3ndition of things two hundred years ago:- factures, but very imperfect agriculture, and very little "The number of the pilgrims was but one hundred, all horticulture. Crossbows had scarcely gone out of use in told. The bark in which they crossed the ocean was of war, and their firearms generally had matchlocks. They less capacity than that of one of the craft which navigate had their old baronial establishments, their ruined castles, our Schuylkill canal. The length of their voyage was the and deserted monasteries; their magnificent cathedrals, same with that of Columbus, a little more than a century their two great universities. their vast encloseres for parks before. The Spaniards had held their'revels in the halls and preserves. They had monuments of the times of the of the Montezumas' during the greater part of this centu- Druids, and abiding evidence that England, for two century. Virginia had been settled a few years, and contained ries, had been a Roman province. They boasted of a confrom five hundred to one thousand inhabitants. What we stitution; but it existed principally in custom, depending now call New England was regarded as an island-a mis- upon uncertain memory, and there were precedents of all take not corrected in old England so late as the time of an kinds-those favoring prerogative greatly prevailing over official despatch of Lord North's during our Revolution. those in favor of liberty. From the peasant to the prince, They came from England, and our thoughts are naturally the distance was more awful than we can well imagine. turned to the condition of things in England at the time. For five thousand years the human race had been subject, They had not much glass for their houses, and not a great all the world over, to the dominion of arbitrary power. deal of linen for their persons; no tea or coffee, and but From the earliest period of recorded time, history had little sugar for their tables, in old England then. They had been occupied with the rise and fall of kingdoms and of no science of chymistry or of geology; no knowledge of kings." INTRODUCTION. Vii company and promote civilization, morals, and religion, as well as national extension, wealth, and power. Great pains have been taken, and expense incurred, to introduce some of the most important, appropriate, and interesting scenes, sketches of character, and other matters embraced in the wide surface of the American Union. In the older states, the historical details offered for a work of this kind are superabundant; and the only difficulty is found in making a selection of periods, and in sufficiently condensing the matter, without reducing it to the form of mere statistics. Respecting the new states, we can assure the reader that the labor of collecting the latest and most authentic information has been very great. We take pleasure in acknowledging our obligations to those benevolent and intelligent friends at a distance who have aided us in collecting the most recent statistics relating to some of the most flourishing parts of our country. We can not but feel, in looking upon the numerous and important subjects to which the attention of our readers is here directed-as we pass from one portion of the country to another, that they, as well as ourselves, must naturally and almost unavoidably be strongly impressed with several great and salutary reflections. To read the history of any country or people, without permanent benefit, would be to waste time and to abuse one of the most important branches of human knowledge; but to pass over descriptions of our own land, and the history of our own people, without giving them any serious regard, or drawing from them any of those interesting and salutary lessons which they are adapted to supply, beyond almost any other part of the world or portion of the human family, would prove a frivolity of mind, or an insensibility of heart, too great for any author willingly to attribute to the circle of his readers. We are indeed aware of the extent to which the floods of fictitious writings, at the present day, vitiate the public taste, waste the time, enfeeble the mind, and, alas! pervert the heart; and we find new reason every day to lament the various evils, both mental and moral, which are brought upon individuals and society by that pernicious cause. But still we know full well, that there are those who keep their minds and their hearts free from the contamination, as well as the debilitating influences, of that miserable kind of reading (which deserves not the title of literature), and that there are persons, in all parts of the country, whose native strength of intellect and manly Christian principles have never been subjected to the insidious, injurious, and often ruinous influence of fiction-reading. Heavy responsibility rests upon those who write for the public. Tutors of the world, they may not lightly assume nor thoughtlessly discharge a very important office. Every line found wanting in moral tone should be instantly erased. Incalculable evil may follow its publication-for in that the depraved find countenance, and the young example and encouragement. He is without excuse-nay, he is grossly culpable-who trifles with the welfare of society, or neglects to do good when opportunity is presented. A bad thought uttered in print is not addressed to a single individual, but to the whole community. While others, though it may be by thousands, devote their leisure hours to subjects of a frivolous and unreal nature, our readers, we would fain hope, will employ them in the more rational and useful task of reviewing the aspect, resources, and history, of their own native land, and the prosperous and powerful nation to which they belong. The materials for such a review we now place before them, in such number and variety as the limits assigned by such a publication permit; and the public will do us the justice to allow that great labor has been bestowed on these pages, and that we have collected an amount of authentic information not easily to be surpassed in importance, variety, and interest, without greatly exceeding the limits to which we have been confined. It has been our constant study to pursue the happy medium between the dry record of facts and dates, and the diffuse and detached descriptions to which the abundance of pleasing topics invited us at every step. Although four years have not elapsed since the first edition of this work issued from the press, yet a thorough revision of it has been imperatively demanded from the many and extraordinary changes that have, in that brief period, occurred in every section of the country; the most remarkable instance of which is the recent acquisition, discovery of the mineral wealth, and settlement of California, resulting in the addition, without its going through the usual territorial probation, of a new state to the Union upon the very western verge of the American continent. About fifty pages have been added to the original size of the work, comprising a full historical and descriptive account of the abovenamed sew Pacific state, with appropriate illustrations, and of the territories of Minnesota, New Mexico, and Utah. Many important facts have been greatly condensed, and many circumstances of minor consequence excluded for want of room; but we trust that the reader will see that we have, throughout the volume, had in view his own gratification and lasting advantage; and that he will arise from its perusal with the reflection that it has brought him a strengthened mind and an improved heart. V111 INTRODUCTION. One of the first reflections to which a deliberate survey of our country naturally gives rise, is, that we have a territory vast in extent, varied in surface and climate, embracing numerous and inexhaustible natural treasures, and secured, by its position, from many of the evils to which most other countries are exposed. Without powerful neighbors, jealous of our prosperity, watching our movements, and threatening to interfere in our concerns, as we find most of the nations of Europe, we are left free from apprehensions of such difficulties on all our borders; so that we may choose such objects, ways, and means, as seem good and right in our own eyes. The general good of the country demands a mutual acquaintance between the citizens in all parts of it. If ignorant of each other's condition, the people of the different states can not feel that high and just regard for each other which is essential to the existence of a strong spirit of brotherhood. The general diffusion of accurate knowledge, respecting all parts of the country, is therefore to be esteemed as an important public object, as it is one of the principal means to secure that great end. While all look with intelligent interest on the progress annually made, in every state and territory, in different branches of improvement, the value of great and good m-n will be appreciated, and a noble rivalry maintained, from which the whole country will derive advantage. All history, however, is only useful so far as we are guided by a knowledge of past experience. Rational liberty and the expansive genius of self-government have so far made us united and powerful. To the people who are qualified by correct habits and self-discipline to love and respect the free institutions of our land, liberty is what the sun is to the earth and religion to the soul-light, and life, and infinite progression. Intellectual, apart from moral culture, is, however, to be feared rather than encouraged; it teaches, indeed, how to rear, but is powerless to perpetuate. The loss of liberty at Rome was contemporaneous, or very nearly so, with the era of her greatest intellectual achievements. It is not alone a knowledge of their rights that the people require, but a virtuous appreciation of them. It was the loss of this public virtue that the elder Cato deplored, when he said to the Roman senate, that it was not by the force of arms, merely, that their forefathers had raised the republic to the greatness it enjoyed in their day, but by things of a very different nature-industry and discipline at home, abstinence abroad, a disinterested spirit in council, unblinded by passion, and unbiased by pleasure. The preservation of well-regulated freedom should be the prayer of every American citizen; but while honestly desirous of enlarging its circumference, he should take great care lest he admits within the circle the elements of licentiousness. In the present state of society, there is more to be feared from this quarter than from any effort of tyranny. The onward progress of intellect and education has put that down for ever. To those who are united for a good purpose, we would say, look to the constancy and character of the early founders of our republic! While other portions of the earth are slumbering in darkness and debased in crime, let us recall to mind their counsel and example. Let us never forget that it is to an EDUCATION, wisely and liberally provided for our people, that America owes her proud superiority. Claiming full exemption from all superstition, we firmly believe that no state can prosper in a long career of true glory, in the disregard of the claims of justice and the injunctions of the Christain religion. A floodtide of apparent prosperity may come, filling for the time the avenues of trade, and satiating the cravings of taste and curiosity; yet, sooner or later it has its ebb, and either cloys with its abundance or leaves the void greater than before. History is a silent but eloquent witness of its truth, and from her undying lamp sheds a stream of unceasing light along our pathway. The fabrics of ancient greatness, built by injustice and consecrated to ambition, are now flitting shadows before us, starting up from behind the broken pillars and ialling columns that were reared to perpetuate the genius by which they were wrought. With such views, the following descriptions of the several states and territories have been written. We shall indeed feel doubly rewarded, if this brief sketch of our great western republic should increase the attachment of our readers to those great principles of equal rights, intelligence, virtue, and peace, in which were laid the foundation of our institutions. In the following pages will be found facts displaying the good principles, sound judgment, and genuine patriotism, of our ancestors, and others of later date, which prove that they have not a few worthy successors. It is an interesting reflection, that each one is a member of this great commonwealth, and that no one is too weak or humble to do something for the public good. L S. Nov., 1851. MAINE. Charlestown......................... PAGE 30 CONCORD................................28 Antiquities..........................PAGE 15 Connecticut River, Source of............. 26, 82 Area of the State..................... 13 Constitution, Synopsis o.................. 4 AUGUSTA.............................. 18 Conway................................ 34 Bangor............................... 20, 22 Chalybeate Springs at................ 34 First Settlement of................... 22 Dartmouth College....................... 31 Theological Seminary at.............. 22 Presidents of......................... 82 Bath........................ 23 Education, Provisions for.................. 43 Bowdoin College, History of............... 18 Gilmanton Theological Seminary........... 43 Breakneck Hill................. 19 Hanover................................ 31 Castine................................. 23 Haverhill......... 32 Eastport................................ 20 Historical Society................. 43 Exports................................ 14 History................................28, 42 Fryeburgh............................. 23 Lakes.................................... 26 Hallowell.............................. 18 Land Slide at the White Mountain, and DeHistory...............................15 struction of the Willey Family....... 34 Houlton............. 23 Latitude and Longitude......... 25, 26 Katahdin Mountain............... 13, 22 Manchester........................... 30 Lovell's Expedition............... 23 Medical Society................... 43 Lovell's Pond........................... 23 Meredith............................ 32 Lower Stillwater Village.................. 23 Merrimac River........................... 26 Lumber Business...................14, 20 Natural Curiosities.......................... 28 Moose Island............................. 20 New Hampton Academy.................. 43 Moosehead Lake.....2.......... 24 Northern and other Railroads.............. 43 out Desert Island and Lighthouse............... 24 Old Man of the Mountain.................. 28 Newspaper, first published in Maine......... 17 Ossipee Lake............................ 26 North Bangor..................... a23 Pasumpsic, River......... 32 Pegipscot Falls........................... 16 Phillips' Academy at Exeter............... 43 Population.............................4 Population................................ 26 Portland............................17 Portsmout... 28 Burnt in the Revolution............... 18 Saco River................................ 25 Quebec, Expedition for the Capture of....... 16 Seacoast. 26 Rivers........................ 13 Shaker Village.. 40 Sebago Lake............................ 24 Squam Lake........... 26, 33 Settlement first attempted on the Connecticut 15 Stateh ouse............ 28 Soil..................... 14 Sunapee Lake............................. 26 Temperance Law................ 24 Walpole...................... 30 Topography....................... 13 White Mountains...................32, 34 Tlade, Ports and Places of....1...... 14 Heights of the different Peaks........... 38 I Welles.............................. 17 Lake of the Clouds................ 39 York................................ 17 Mount Washington............... 38 Nancy's Hill.................. 36 NEW HAMPSHIRE. Notch of the....36,38 Prospect Mountain....... 86 Area of the State...... 26 Wild Birds and Game.............. 39 Bartlett...........36................... 86 Bellows' Falls........................... 80 VERMONT. Boundaries.............................. 25 Canterbury............................... 40 Area of the State........................ 44 Centre Harbor........................... 34 Battle of Plattsburgh................, 57 Character of the People................... 30 Bennington............................... 54 ~~~~.~. ~......... ~ 2 GEOGRAPHICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Battle of Bennington................. AGE 54 Islands.............................P G 60 Burlington.................................52 Landing of the Pilgrims.................. 107 Courts...................... 66 Lawrence Observatory, Amherst College.... 106 Crown Point, Fortress of................ 49 Lawrence Scientific School, Cambridge..... 72 Green Mountains.......................44, 45 Learned Societies........................ 74 Hero Islands...........................45, 46 Lexington.............................. 98 History..................... 46 Battle of................. 100 Lake Champlain.......................... 45 Liberty Tree, History of................. 88 Lake Memphremagog............... 45 Lowell.................... 96 Mineral Springs..........................45 Sketch of Operatives at.......... 98 MONTPELIEn.............................52 Martha's Vineyard.............. 60 Mount Defiance................. 48 Massachusetts General Hospital........... 84 Mount Independence.............4........7 Mount Auburn Cemetery................. 98 Naval Action on Lake Champlain........49, 51 Mount Holyoke................ 103 Newspaper first printed.................... 56 Mount Holyoke Female Seminary......... 103 Onion River................... 46 Mount Tom........................... 103 Pell's Garden at Ticonderoga..............48 Nahant.............................. 94 Rivers...... 46 Nantucket............................. 60 Rutland...................... 51 Newspapers........................... 74 Statehouse at Montpelier............. 54 Newton Theological Seminary............. 68 Ticonderoga, Fortress of...........;...47 Northampton.......................... 103 Topography............................ 44 Pilgrim Fathers, Historical Incident of the... 110 University of Vermont...................52 Plymouth.............................. 96 Windsor....................54 First Settlement of.. 60 Landing of the Pilgrims at......... 107 MASSACHUSETTS'Printing, Establishment of........... 62 Railroads........................63, 96, 98 Adams, John Quincy, Biographical Sketch of 116 Sears, Residence of the Hon. David.......84 Amherst.................... 104 Sears, Sketch of Colonel Isaac.......... 66 College...............104 Shay's Rebellion,'Brief Sketch o f.. 101 Anoe.......................10 Andover.................... 100 Sears' Tower, Cambridge Observatory..... 70 Theological Seminary at.............. 3 South Hadley Falls......................101 Blind Institution......................... 86 Springfield.............................101 Bloody Brook, History of................... 107 South Boston.......................... 76 BOSTON................. 74 Statehouse.............................. i8 Asylum and Farm School............ 92 Watchusett Hill................101 Athenceum......................... 92 Williams College...............,.. 68 Atbemeum.. 92 ~~~~Williams College.............68 Bridges............... 93 Winthrop, John, First Governor of MassamCommon..............78 chusetts, Biographical Sketch of....... 110 usohue......................... 86.............. Customhouse.............86 His History of New England...... 111 1?aneuil Hall......................... 88 Death of........................... 114 Faneuil Hall Market.................. 86 Winthrop Family Tomb, Inscriptions on.... 115 Residence of John Hancock.......... 80 Worcester............................. 101 Plan for Enlargement of............ 80 Schools................. 92 CONNECTICUT. Statehouse.......................... 78 Theatres............................... 92 Agricultural Improvements in............. 122 Villages in the Vicinity of............ 94 Area......................... 119 Waterworks........................ 92 Boundaries........................... 11'9 Boundaries............................. 59 Charter Oak, at Hartford................. 126 Brookfield............................... 100 Connecticut River....................... 125 Bunker Hill Monument............... 93 East Haddam..................... 125 Cambridge Observatory............... 70 Essex................................ 125 Cambridge University................... 68 Farmington and Northampton Canal....... 124 Charlestown............................ 93 Fort Griswold, History of................. 127 Clergymen of Early Times............... 66 Fort Hill, History of..................... 127 Cochituate Waterworks.................. 92 Haddam............................... 125 Common Schools........................ 63 HARTFORD.................... 126 Deerfield.............................. 107 Charter Oak at.................... 126 Distinguished Laymen of Early Times...... 66 Deaf and Dumb Asylum............. 127 East Boston............................. 76 Insane Hospital..................... 127 Education.............................. 63 History................................ 120 Government............................ 63 Indians, History o f................. 121 Grand Refractor, Cambridge Observatory... 70 Judges' Cave........................ 124 Hadley.................................. 104 Manufactures..... 122 History.................60, 106 Middletown.............................. 125 Indians, Early Missions among............ 62 Lead Mines in........ 126 GEOGRAPHICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 3 Mohegan Indians, History of.......PAGE 128 Common School Fund.............PAGE 161 NEw HAVEN.......................... 122 Common Schools, Statistics of............ 161 Graves of the Regicide Judges at..... 124 Cooperstown.................... 162 New Haven and Hartford Railroad....... 124 Delaware and Hudson Canal............ 158 New London.......................... 127 Erie Canal............................ 158 Norwich............................... 130 Erie Railroad......................... 159 High Bridge across the Thames at.... 130 Fal.j of the Genesee at Rochester..... 176 Sachem's Field at.................. 130 Falls of Niagara...................... 178 Saybrook............................ 124 Gas Springs........................... 146 History of the Settlement of........ 125 Geneva......................... 175 Sears, David, Esq., Notice of........... 132 Geneva College....................... 175 Stateprison at Wethersfield...... 126 Genesee Flats......................... 146 Topography........................... 119 Genesee River......................... 146 Wethersfield........................... 126 Greenwood Cemetery................... 192 Winthrop, John, First Governor of Connec- History..150-152, 161, 162, 164-166, 168, 171, ticut, Biographical Sketch of......... 131............................. 193-200 Yale College.......................... 122 Hudson and Erie Railroad............... 159 Hudson River......................... 143 RHODE ISLAND. Palisades on the.................... 144 Hudson River Railroad................. 160 Area of the State...................... 133 Indian Barbarities161 Blackstone Canal........................ 138 Indian Barbarities in Early Times....164-166 Block Island........................... 140 Lak e Champlain 149 Boundaries............................ 133LaeC m. Lake George 149 Brown University...................... 136 LittleFals 166 Little Falls............................ 166 Coal Mines........................... 136 ~~~Coal Mines.. ~136.First Settlement at................ 168 Commerce............ 133..Marble Aqueduct at................ 168 Early History of Cotton Manufactures.... 138 Natural Scenery at166 Eminent Men in Early Times.......... 140 R emarkable Cavern at.168 iHistory........................... 134, 141 ReakbeCvrat.......16 ~~~History.1 l34, 141.Medical Colleges....................... 160 Manufactures...................... 134, 138 Manufactures.134...... 136,18..Medical College at Geneva.............. 175 Mo n t.13 Mountain Hope........................... 144 ~~MNarragansets, Historyof.....................134 Na.....t. 147 Pawtucket.................. 138 NEW YORK CITY.............. 186 Population................ 134 Area of................. 186 Population at various Periods....... 141 Banks......... 88 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~BNksoR............................. 141 PROVIDENCE................. 136 Bellevue....................... 190 Railroads................ 138 Blind Institution........... 188 Rivers............................... 133 Bowling Green.................... 190 Statistics.......................... Churches...........186 Topography............................ 133 City Hall..192 Populaioaty Hariou....................... 192 Croton Aqueduct................... 188 NEW YORK. Custom-House..................... 190 Academies...................... es 160..Deaf and Dumb Asylum.......... 188 ALBANY................. 152 Greenwood Cemetery near......... 192 Capitol................ 156 Harbor.................. 186 City-Hall..... 154 Merchants' Exchange........................ 192 History of-..........154, 156 Park r en.................. 190 Rensselaer Mansion................ 156 Penitentiary..192 State-Hall.....154 Prisons................. 192 Female Institute and Female Seminary 154 Public Squares.................... 190 Auburn.. 172 Schools................... 188 Stateprison at2t.................. 174. Slet........ 186 Ballston Springs...................... 147 Streets 86 Brooklyn.. 192 Trinity Church ea C...... 1928 Navy-Yard at...................... 192 Union Place............ 190 Greenwood Cemetery........... 1 arr......................... 190 Buffalo......................... 178 Washington Square............... 190 Canals.................... 158 New Yorkand Erie Railroad... 159 Carthage............... 178 New York and New Haven Railroad...... 160 Catskill Mountains............ 144 NiaaraFalls........................ 178 Champlain Canal se.......... 158 Normal Seminaries..................... 160 Cherry Valley......................... 164 Onondaga County, French Colony settled at 171' Massacres at during the Revolution 164 Oswego River........................ 146 Clinton Srn....... 1 70 Plattsburgh........................... 184 Church of Our Lady, at Cold Spring......... 182 Battle of.............. 185 Greenwood Cemetery near........... 192 Wall Street........................ 190~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 4 GEOGRAPHICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Penitentiaries.................... PAGE 172 Setlement in West Jersey.. PAGE 202 Poughkeepsie........................ 180 Slai06 Railroads............................. 159 Soil...201 Receipts and Expenditures of New York Source of the Passaic... 214 and Erie Railroad................... 160 Statehouse at Trenton... 207 Rensselaer Mansion at Albany........... 156 Swedish Settlement.. 20 Rochester............................ 176 Temperance, this State Early Advocate of 206 Rome............................. 168 Thanksiving-Day first appointed.. 206 Salina Salt Springs..... 171 Topography... 01 Saratoga Springs........-............ 147 Tretn... 207 Schenectady.......................... 16128 Schenectady Lyceum............... 162 Washington's Residence at Morrisown 214 Sears, Colonel Isaac, Biography of..... 196 Whale-Fishery, Early Attempts at.. 206 Adventure of the 23d August, 1775... 198 Destruction of the Loyal Gazette Print- PENNSYLVANIA. ing-Office199 Bedford...2...........5........ 199 His Opposition to the Stamp Act 197 Bedford Springs................ 19745 Member of Committee of Correspond- Bethlehem..234 ence.......................... 197 Birminham...245 Washington's High Opinion of Him... 199 Bo Last Illness and Death.............. 200 Brandywine, Battle of... 246 Seminaries of Learning and Religion. 160 Canals..5. 160 234 Springs.............................. 1465 Statehouse at Albany...............2...44-.... 156 Stone-Church at Dover............ 1......8 182 Staten Island.............................. 192 C45 Sons of Liberty, History of.............. 193 Coal, Amount imported... 222 Colonel Isaac Sears their Leader 193 Coal-Mines.................. 19233, 243 First Organization of dissolved......1 Acdnii. 195... 244 Letter of Nicholas Ray to........ 195 Coal Statistics...220 Reply to............ 196 Coal-Trade, Anecdotes of 220 Maryland Association, Proceedings of. 195 Delaware and Hudson Canal... 234 New York Association 194 Easton.............. 1 8 Object of the Association.194 Lafayette College at... 238 Orgranization of............ 194 Erie...... —o245 Paved the Way to Declaration of lade- Franklin, Benjamin, founded Library.....222 pendence...oo...- - 197 Founded Philosophical Society.... 224 Syracuse...oo....o... oo..171 HAR~isBURGH o........ 244 Theological Seminaries.160 History of the State........... 216 Trenton Falls...170 Interesting Facts in...o o 247 Troy.....oo.o..o....184 Inventions and Improvements by Citizens Utica.............170 of this State. o... 0... 251 Van-Kleek House at Poughkeepsie. 180 Lehigh Coal-Mines.......... "o "233 Lehigh River, Locks and Dams upon...234 NEW JERSEY. Literary Institutions... o.... -...218 Little Schuylkill River.. ooo...... 233Battle of Assunpink.... o..o..o 208 Mauich-Chunk........ o 234 Battle of Trenton. 0....208 Meadville.... o........o.o 245 Delaware and Raritan Canal...... 210 Merchants' Magazine, Extract from. —-. 220 Elizabethtown........ oo..210 Minersville o.o..... 244 History of Early Settlements...o... 202 Montgomery County.... oo241 Laws of the Colony in Early Times.... 206 History of..o.....o 242 Livingston, William, first Governor of the Mountains... oo.. 215 State... oI.......205 Mount Carbon....233 Morristown..o.....212) Mount Carbon Railroad....o243 Names of Early Settlers..........204 Patriotism of People of this State,.....o252 Newark,..........i212 Penn, William, Historical Sketch of...o-249 New Brunswick..... o. 210 His Burial-Place...... 250 Rutgers' College at. o...o 210 His Treatment of the Indians.....216 Newspapers, first printed in the Colony. 207 His Treaty with them..........249 Passaic, Source of......o......21.4 Letitia House, his Residence....o..249 Paterson...o...o...212 Obtains a Grant of Land on the DelaHistory of Manufactures at. -...212, 214 ware..o............. 216 Penitentiary at Trenton..o.....oo.o.oooI 207 Site of his Treaty with the Indians.. 249 Princeton.. o208 Pittsburgh...............235 Nassau Hall....210 Hsoyf..236 Presbyterian Seminary. o 210 Manufactures.......o..235j GEOGRAPHICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 5 Pittsburgh, United States Arsenal at.. PAGE 236 Medical Society of Delaware, 1789.. PAGE 259 Water-Works...................... 236 Milford............................... 256 Western Penitentiary.............. 236 Newark................... 255 Western Theological Seminary....... 236 Newcastle County and Town.......... 256 Western University................. 236 Population at various Periods............ 253 Port Carbon........................... 244 Population and Area of Delaware and Pottsville................. 233 Rhode Island compared.......... 259 Printing, when first introduced........... 218 Printing first introduced................ 254 PHILADELPHIA........................ 222 Rodney, Caesar, Biographical Sketch of.... 257 American Historical Society........ 224 Stamp-Act, Proceedings on.............. 257 American Philosophical Society...... 224 Sussex County.............. 257 Bank of Pennsylvania.............. 224 Topography........................... 253 Customhouse..................... 224 Wilmington............................ 255 Distinguished for Neatness.......... 222 Exchange................... 224 MARYLAND. Fairmount Water-Works............ 229 Agricultural Advantages, from Soil, &c.... 276 Fountain Park, Residence of Andrew Agricultural Statistics............. 278 M'Makin, Esq............ 229 ANNAPOLIS........................ 273 Girard Bank............... 224 Capitol......................... 273 Girard College.................... 226 St. John's College............. 273 Hospital................. 228 Area of the State............... 260 House of Refuge............. 228 Baltimore and Ohio Railroad.......... 267 Independence Hall............ 224 BALTIMORE.................267 Markets................. 222 Area................... 267 Naval Hospital.............. 228 Armistead Monument............... 268 Penitentiary....................... 226 Battle Monument.................. 268 Permanent Bridge........... 229 Battle of Baltimore................272 Philadelphia Library............... 222 Cathedral........................ 268 Plan of the Streets............ 222 Early History of................... 270 Schools............................ 226 Fort M'Henry.............. 270 United States Mint............ 228 Merchants' Exchange............... 267 University of Pennsylvania.......... 228 Museum and Gallery of Fine Arts.... 268 Wire Suspension Bridge....I......... 229 Population........................ 267 Railroads......................... 243 Suburbs........................... 27P Reading...................... 231 Topography268 Rieadin............................... 231 Topography....................... 268 Rivers........................... 15Washington Monument........... 268 Schuylkill Water Gap................... 231 Barren Creek Mineral Springs........... 274 Sulphur Springs................... 244, 245 Boundaries.......................... 260 Tunnel near Orwigsburgh............... 233 Cambridge............... 274 Valley Forge, Revolutionary History of... 243 Chesapeake Bay............... 261 Washington........................... 245 Chestertown........................... 274 Whiskey Rebellion................ 218 Coal-Mines................ 278 Wyoming, Valley of................... 238 Constitution of the Colony in 1650....... 264 Landscape, Beauties of............. 240 Copper-Mines......................... 278 Massacre at.-....................... 241 Cumberland............................ 276 York........... 244 Easton................................ 274 Education............................. 266 DELAWARE. Elkton................................ 273 Area of the State...................... 253 Ellicott's Mills........................ 276 Boundaries.......................... 253 Emmettsburg.......................... 274 Brandywine Creek................. 255, 256 St. Mary's College at............... 274 Brandywine Springs.................... 255 Flour Trade.......................... 273 Cape Henlopen........................ 255 Frederick........................... 274 Chesapeake and Delaware Canal......... 254 Frederick County...................... 274 Colonial Assembly in 1704.............. 254 Government........................... 266 Condition and Prospects of the State...... 259 Hagerstown........................... 274 Courts................................ 254 Hancock.............................. 276 Delaware Breakwater.................. 254 Havre de Grace........................ 273 Delaware City..........2. 256 History of the Settlement of the State. 263, 266 Delaware College........... 254, 256 Indian War in 1642.................... 264 DOVER..!........................ 255 Iron Mines........................ 278 Government........................ 254 Latitude and Longitude................. 260 Georgetown...... 256 Manufactures................. 266, 273, 278 History...... -.....253, 254 Minerals found in the State............. 278 Kent County................ 257 Patapsco River....................... 261 Latitude and Longitude................ 253 Patuxent River........................ 260 Lewes................... 256 Pocomoke Bay.............. 261 6 GEOGRAPHICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Population..................... PAGE 260 Lynchville....................... PAGE 334 Potomac River.......................... 261 Madison, Residence of............. 332 Productions............. 266 Sketch of.......................... 332 Rebellion in 1645....................264 Martinsburg........................... 338 Rivers................................ 261 Monroe, Birthplace of................... 336 Roman Catholic College at Georgetown... 266 Sketch of......................... 336 Snow Hill............................. 274 Monumental Church at Richmond........ 327 Statistics.............................. 278 Monticello, Residence of Jefferson....... 322 St. Mary's, Settlement of................ 263 Natural Bridge over Cedar Creek.... 303 305 Temperature.......................... 262 Negro Cabin and Funeral............... 348 Topography............. 260-262 Norfolk............................... 331 Viaduct of the Baltimore and Washington Old Point Comfort............... 332 Railroad.......................... 276 Petersburg............................ 337 Westminster........................... 274 Pocahontas, Sketch of.................. 350 Point Pleasant......................... 337 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. Portsmouth.....331 Potomac River......................... 308 Area of the District..................... 279 Randolph, John, Grave of............... 351 Boundaries........................... 279 RICHMOND............................. 325 Capitol................................ 282 Springs....................... 337, 3381 346 Capitol.282 Springs.~~~~~~~~~~337, 338, 346 Capture of Washington City in 1814.......292 Staunton.............................. 337 Chain Bridge across the Potomac......... 301 Valley of Virginia, Description of........ 306 Columbian College..................... 292 WASHINGTON, Sketch of................. 318 Congressional Burying-Ground........... 290 Birthplace of 320 Congressional Debates, Character of...... 298 Last Illness of..................... 340 Cumberland Road, Notice of............ 299 Residence or....................... 338 Georgetown............................ 301 Tomb of.............342 Roman Catholic Collegeand Nunnery at 301 Wellsburg.............................. 348 History................... 279, 289, 292, 293 Wheeling.............................. 337 Inauguration of President described..... 284 Weir's Cave..................... 306 Latitude and Longitude................. 260 William and Mary College............. 344 Lighting the Capitol with Gas........... 292 Williamsburg.......................... 344 Manufactures................ 266, 273, 278 Winchester............................. 337 ITavy-Yard........................ 292 Woodstock............................ 337 Patent-Office... 286 Yorktown............................. 346 Statistics of and Remarks on.... 286-289 Potomac River............299 NORTH CAROLNA. President's House...................... 284 Rotunda of the Capitol, Paintings in...... 300 Area of the State....................... 352 Smithsonian Institute................... 292 Dismal Swamp....................... 358 Topography............................ 279 Edenton.....................362 Treasury Building............... 290 Education...................... 359 Washington, George, Anecdotes of... 293-297 Gold-Mines........................ 353, 359 Brougham's Eulogy of.............. 297 Government......................... 358 ~ ~History.................... 353- 357 VIRGINIA. Internal Improvements.................. 359 VIRGINIAMuti.35 Abingdon....................... 337 Mou.t:iG s............................ 360 Abingdon.. 337 ~~~~~~~~~RALEIGH... 360 Birds of Virginia..................... 310 Revolutionary Incident................. 363 Blue Ridge, Passage of............ 305 Shocco White Sulphur Springs........... 362 Boundaries.................. 302 Statehouse........................... 362 Capitol at Richmond................ 327 Tarborough. 362 Charlestown........................... 338 Topograp hy....................... 352, 358'Charlottesville................ 334 Turpentine and Tar, Manufacture of. 352, 360 Climate and Scenery................... 312 Wake Forest College................... 362 Education, Provisions for................ 331 Warrenton............................ 362 Elizabeth................... 337 Wilmington.......................... 362 Fairfax County................. 338 Farmvil'e...34 SOUTH CAROLINA. Fincastle..............................337 Fredericksburg........................ 334 Beaufort............................... 378 Geological Facts......... 311 Camden.....378 Hon. William C. Rives, Letter from...... 307 CHARLESTON..........................374 Hampden Sidney College................ 336 Capitulation of in 1780............. 369 Hampton.............................. 332 Literary Institutions of............. 376 History...........313-318, 322, 324, 329-331 Settlement of.....................366 Jamestown................. 314 Cheraw.................37 Jefferson, Sketch of................... 322 College of South Carolina...............378 -7 J GEOGRAPHICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 7 COLUMBIA.........e PAGE 378 St. Augustine..................... PAGE 405 Cotton, Cultivation of................ 372 Subterranean Springs...................407 Falls of the Charashilactay............. 374 TALLAHASSEE......... 407 Greenville............................. 378 Topography....................... 404, 405 History............................ 365-372 White Sulphur Springs................ 407 Indian Wars.................... 366, 368 Wahully River................ 407 Keowee Lake........ 374 Marion and the British Officer.......... 368 ALABAMA. Rice, Culture of....................... 372 Alabama River...........412, 413, 417, 418 Railroads......................... 374 Area of the State............. 412 Revolutionary History.............. 368-372 Boundaries............................ 412 Sullivan's Island, near Charleston......... 378 Cahawba.................... 418 Spartansburg........................ 378 Coosa River...................... 413 Topography................. 365 Cotton Trade..................... 418 Demopolis........................... 418 GEORGIA. Education, Constitutional Provisions for... 416 Area of the State 379 Fossil Bones, &c..................... 420 Athens.......................... 388 Gainesville........................ 418 Augusta........ 390 History........... 413-415 Boundaries............. 379 Hydrargos Sillimanii described.420 Chatahoochee River............... 380 Improvements projected................. 421 Columbus............................. 388 Latitude and Longitude................. 412 Constitution, Synopsis of............... 386 Magnolia, History and Description of. 424-427 Education.................... 386 Mobile................................ 418 Falls of Coweta...................... 382 Mobile Bay........................... 413 Falls of Tockoa........................ 396 Mobile River........................ 413 Falls of the Towaliga.................. 394 MONTGOMERY,............... 418 Falls of Tullulah...................... 382 Population............................ 412 Georgia Female College,.............. 392 Printing first introduced............... 416 History................................ 384 Selma........................... 420 Remarkable Incidents in......... 396-403 Silliman, Professor, Letter from n........ 420 Lover's Leap, on the Chatahoochee.... 380 State of the Country.................... 416 Macon.............................. 390 Statistics of the Cotton-Crop... 427 Madison Spring..................... 388 St. Stephen's.................... 418 Medical College of Georgia............. 390 Tombigbee River................ 412 MILLEDGEVILLE.................. 388 Topography. 412 ()glethorpe, General, Sketch of...... 400 Tuscaloosa.......................... 418 Oglethorpe University................... 394 University of Alabama.................. 418 Printing first introduced................ 386 Rock Mountain................. 382 MISSISSIPPI. Cross-Roads and Fort on............ 384 Agricultural Productions...428, 429 Savannah..................... 386 Antiquities...........430,43........4 Attack on, in 1779................. 398 Area of tle State.428 Pulaski Monument at.............. 388 Boundaries.... 428 Settlement of..................... 396 Centennary College............. 432 Tockoa Falls....................... 382 Columbus................... 433 Topography..................... 379 Government.......................... 429 Towaliga Falls..................... 394 Grand Gulf.... 433 Tullulah Falls......................... 382 Holly Springs.......................... 433 Wesleys, John and James, Arrival of in the JACKISON................. 432 Country.............. 401 Latitude and Longitude.... 428 Whitfield, George, Arrival of in the Country 401 Mississippi Railroad.431 Mississippi River, Remarkable Features of 431 FLORIDA. Natchez........................ 430 Agricultural Productions......... 405, 411 Population............... 430 Appalachicola.................... 407 Statistics................... 430 Area of the State........... 405 Vicksburg. 433 Boundaries........ 404 Washington...................... 433 Caves................................ 408 Wooding Station, Notice of.............. 434 Climate............................... 405 Everglades........................... 409 LOUISIANA. Florida Keys...................... 407 Alexandria............................ 446 History........................... 409, 411 Area of the State....................... 436 Jacksonville.............. 407 BATON ROUGE......................... 445 Lime-Sinks...................... 408 Boundaries............................ 436 Ladies' Cave......................... 409 Canebrakes, Description of............ 448 Pensacola........................... 405 Cotton-Moth, Ravages of....... 447 8 GEOGRAPHICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Cotton-Trade................ PAGiZ 439, 448 Columbus................... PAGE 475 Country Life in Louisiana............... 446 Curiosities............................ 472 Covington............................. 446 East Tennessee University... 473 Cypress, Nature of....,,........... 448 Fossil Remains............. 469 Donaldsonville.................. 446 Franklin.................. 475 Galveztown.................. 446 Geological Formations................ 469 Geology....... 438 History.. 468, 471 Madisonville....... *................ 446 Iron-Trade.......... **............. 470, 47 NEW ORLEANS............... 442, 445 Jonesborough............ 473 Opelousas......................... 446 Kingston.............................. 475 Parishes and Counties............... 440 Knoxville........................ 473 Springfield.............................. 446 Latitude and Longitude........ 467 Statistics..................... 439 Maysville......................... 473 Sugar-Making, Description of....... 440-442 Memphis.............................. 473 Topography.............. 436, 437, 439, 440 Minerals............................ 468 View on the Mississippi................ 447 Murfreesborough............... 475 NASHVILLE................ 473 TEXAS. Population............................. 470 Agricultural Productions............... 451 Statistics. 470, 471 Area of the State................ 449 Topography................... 467, 468 AUSTIN..................... 456 Bastrop................... 458 KENTUCKY. Boundaries.................. 449 Area of the State................... 476 Climate.................... 451 Barrens................. 477 Corpus Christi...................... 458 Boundaries............. 476 Galveston........................... 454 Capitol at Frankfort......... 484 Government..................... 458 Educational Statistics............. 485 History........................... 449, 452 FRANKFORT.................... 484 Houston........................ 456 Government......................... 478 Latitude and Longitude................ 449 History.............................. 477 Matagorda.......................... 458 Historical Society................... 484 Nacogdoches......................,458 Indian Curiosities................ 481 Population.................. 452 Kentucky River................. 477 Rivers........................ 450 Latitude and Longitude................. 476 San Augustin......................... 458 Lexington.................. 482 San Felipe de Austin.................... 458 Louisville........................... 482 San Antonio de Bexar............ 458 Mammoth Cave, Description of.......... 478 Topography.......................... 450 Medical Institute at Louisville......... 484 Washington........................ 458 Ohio Canal........................... 482 Wild Horses, Manner of Capturing....... 451 Population........................... 478 Prison Statistics........................ 485 ARKANSAS. Productions..... 478 Arkansas Post...................... 465 Stateprison.............. 484 Boundaries...................... 459 Synopsis of the Constitution.............. 478 Chalybeate Springs.................. 465 Topography......................... 476, 477 Constitution, Synopsis of................ 464 Transylvania University............ 482 Helena.......................... 465 Hot Springs.......................... 465 OHIO. Indians, Sketches of................... 465 Akron................................. 505 LITTLE Roc.......................... 464 Antiquities..................... 504 Population.................465 Area of the State...................... 486 Prairie, Description of................ 463 Ashtabula................ 505 Rivers............................... 459 Batavia.................. 511 Rocky Bluffs on the Mississippi.......... 462 Boundaries............ 486 Scenery along the Mississippi............ 460 Bucyrus.................. 510 Statistics.............................. 465 Chillicothe.........................., 508 Sulphur Springs....................... 465 CNCINNATI................ 496 Topography................... 459 History of.............4....... 498 Literary Institutions of......... 500, 502 TENNESSEE. Manufactures of..................500 Area of the State....................... 467 Cleveland........................... 505 Boundaries............................ 467 Clinton County............... 511 Capitol at Nashville.................... 473 COLUMBUS............................ 509 Cascades................................ 472 Coshocton................. 510 Caverns............................... 470 Cuyahoga Falls................ 505 Clarksville............................ 475 Dayton................ 511 Climate and Productions................ 475 Elyria............................... 506 GEOGRAPHICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 9 Fairport................. PAGE 508 Sheep-Growing............... PAGE 515. 527 Franklin County....................... 510 Soil.................... 515 Gallipolis........................ 508 Statistics.................... 522, 527, 528 Gambier............................. 502 St. Joseph's........................... 520 Granville............................. 510 Topography..................... 514, 516 Hamilton.............................. 512 Wool-Growing, History of........... 527 History........................... 488-494 Ypsilanti.............................. 523 Kenyon College at Gambier..............503 Lancaster............................. 509 INDIIANA. Lane Seminary.................... -502 Academies and Common Schools......... 533 Latitude and Longitude................ 486 Area of the State.......................532 Mansfield............................ 505 Bear-Hunt..........................540 Marietta............................... 503 Bloomington........................ 543 Massillon............................. 510 Boundaries............................ 532 Maumee City.......................... 51233 Newark............................... 510 Coal and Copper-Mines............... 538 Oberlin............................... 506 Crawfordsville.........................536 Painesville............................ 508 Cut-off River........................ 543 Pickaway County......................**509 Evansville.................. 542 Population at different Periods........... 487 History...........................540, 543 of 1790 and 1840 compared.......... 494 INDIANAPOLIS. 533 Pork-Trade of the West................. 513 Capitol at..534 Portsmouth............................ 536 Public Works of the State............... 488 Latitude and Longitude..532 Roscoe................................ 510 Lawreebr 542 Sandusky City......................... 506 Literary Institutions. 533 Sidney................. 512............... 542 Springfield............................ 512 Michigan City................536 Statistics............................496, 513 New Albany........................ 542 Steubenville............................ 506 New Harmony.............. 534, 543 Toledo.............................. 505 Peculiar Characteristics of Western Mind.. 536 Urbana................................ 511 Pigeon Springs.........................520 Van Buren............................ 512 Population........................... 532 Williamsburg.......................... 511 Saltsprings............................538 Willoughby........................... 508 South Bend............................536 Wilmington.511 Terre Haute............................ 51136 Xenia................................ 512 Topography........................... 532 Zanesville............................ 508 Vincennes.............................534 Western River Town................ 538 MICHIGAN. Adrian............................... 523 ILLINOIS. Agricultural Advantages of the State...... 515 Alton................................. 555 Ann Arbor............................ 523 Area of the State....................... 544 Boundaries........................... 514 Belleville............................. 556 Copper-Mines......................... 524 Cave-in Rock, near Shawneetown........ 555 Detroit........................ 518 Chicago............................... 551 Emigrants, Advantages to............... 530 History of................ 554 Exports of Wool....................... 527 Emigration................ 562 Falls of St. Mary................. 523 Galena.......................... 549, 556 Fisheries........................ 522, 523 Growth of the West..................... 564 History........................ 515 Illinois College........................ 555 Illinois and Michigan Canal............. 526 Jacksonville....................... 549, 555 Internal Improvements.................. 517 Kaskaskia................... 555 Jackson...................... 523 Latitude and Longitude................. 544 I Joliet, Water-Power at................. 527 Lead-Mines................. 549 Kalamazoo................ 520 Mount Joliet............ 560 Lake St. Clair................ 518 Population..544 LANSING.......................... 520, 525 Peoria....................... 556 Mackinac............................. 520 River Navigation of the Wesi............ 559 Business of................ 522 Rock Fort........................... 556 Marshall................. 520 Rock Island City............ 556 Mining Operations, History of........... 524 Shawneetown........................ 55 Monroe.................... 520 SPRINGFIELD............ 555 Population........................ 515 St. Joseph............ 552 Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior......... 528 Swedish Settlement, Notice of........... 550 Account of Visit to............ 529, 530 Topography........................ 545 Railroads........................... 517 Vandalia......... 556 10 GEOGRAPHICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. MISSOURI. Population.........................PAGE 587 Prairie on Fire, Description of............ 596 Area and Boundaries................ PAGE 566 Racine............................... 590 Bethel................................ 575 Rivers................................. 587 Boonville.............................. 576 Sheboygan............................. 592 Buffaloes and Elks...................... 577 Southport.............................. 592 Canton................................ 575 Swamps.............................. 588 Cape Girardeau......................... 576 Columbia............................... 576 CALIFORNIA. Edina.................................. 575 Elkhorn Pyramid....................... 581 Area and Boundaries....................506 Falls of the Missouri.................... 568 Benicia................................. 621 Fulton................................ 576 Climate.............................. 08 Glasgow.............................. 576 Constitution, Synopsis of................. 605 Hannibal.............................. 576 Geographical Description............. 606 Hunting the Buffalo..................... 579 History................................ 60L Independence.......................... 576 Indians... 610 JEFFERSON CITY............... 571 Mineral Wealth......................... 622 Latitude and Longitude.................. 566 Monterey, City of............... 620 Lexington............................. 576 Population............................ 610 Liberty.............................. 576 Postoffices.......622 Memphis............................... 575 Rivers............................... 608 Mines.......................................567 Sacramento City................ 617 Missouri River.......................... 566 San Diego............................. 621 New Madrid........................... 576 San Francisco, Bay o f.............. 608 Palmyra..................... 575 San Francisco, City of............. 611 Population............................ 567 San Jose, City of........................ 618 Potosi................................. 576 Seal of the State, Explanation of......... 605 Springfield.............................. 576 Stockton, City of................ 620 St. Charles............................. 575 VALLEJO............................... 621 St. Genevieve.......................... 570 St. Joseph............................ 576 TERRITORY OF OREGON. St. Lou is............................... 571 A e n on ais.......... 9 St. Louis..... 571 Area and Boundaries.. 627 History of......................... 571 Climate..627 Population of at various Periods....... e......................7......... 627 T ~~~~~~~~~~~Geographical Description................. 627 Tully................................. 57 History............. 630 IOWA. Mountains..........................627, 628 OREGON CITY, Territorial Capital.......... 632 Antiquities............................ 583 Rivers.............................629, 630 Area and Boundaries................... 582 Towns and Settlements............632-634 Burlington.............................. 583 Dubuque............................... 583 TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. Geological Features of the State........... 586 Area and Boundaries..636 History.................. 582 Geographical Description................ 636 IowA CITY............................. 583 History............................... 635 Jamesville............................ 583 ST. PAUL'S, the Territorial Capital......... 638 Latitude and Longitude................... 582 Towns and Settlements....... 638, 639 Log-Cabin and Sawmill.................. 584 Western Territory...................... 639 Population......................................582 Prairie, description of.............584 TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. ~WISCONSIN. Area and Boundaries.................... 6-1 WISCONSIN.Geographical Description................. 641 Antiquities..........................592, 594 History................................ 640 Area and Boundaries.................... 587 Manners and Customs.................... 644 Azatlan............................... 592 ineral Wealth.... 64 Clearing and Log-Cabin.................. 594 Population............................. 643 Fond du Lac............................ 592 SANTA FE, Territorial Capital............... 643 Geographical Description..............587-589 Towns and Settlements...............641-643 Isle Royale........................... 598 Lakes, Extent of Great American.......... 600 TERRITORY OF UTAH. Lake St. Croix........................... 598 Area and Boundaries.................... 646 Latitude and Longitude................... 587 Geographical Description...............646, 647 MADISON................................ 590 GREAT SALT LAKE CITY, Capital........... 647 Maiden's Rock, History of................. 596 History............................... 646 Milwaukie.............................. 590 Population............................ 648 Mines of Lake Superior.................. 598 Settlements.. 647 LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS. SEAL OF MAINE, and Desert-Rock Lighthovse.. PAGE 13 Newport....................PAE 135 Bowdoin College, Brunswick....................... 19 Brown University.. 137 Eastport........................................... 21 Seal of New York............143 Seal of New Hampshire, and Old Man of the Mountain 25 Tomb of Kosciusko, West Poin Squam Lake.......................................27 Genesee Falls, Rochester.....143 Statehouse, at Concord.......... 29 The Palisades, Hudson River...... 145 Centre Harbor and lake Winnipisioge............. 35 View of Albany from Greenbush..151 Notch-ouse, White Mountains.....................37 Albany Female Seminary... 153 Shaker Settlement at Canterbury................... 41 St. Paul's Church, Albany...155 State Street, Albany...157 Seal of Vermont, and View of Burlington............ 44 Schenectady Lyceum...... 163 tatehouse, at Montpelier...........................53 Village of Little Falls.. 167 Seal of Massachusetts, and Landing of the Pilgrims... 59 Utica...169 Ci oston..................................... Aubu...................... 172 Geneva Medical College................ 7 Boston in 1776, taken from the Road to Dorchester... 61 Geneva Medica College.17 Residence of John Hancock, Boston.............67 Falls of Niagara, viewed from te n. 17 Cambridge University.............................. 69 F the Califto Hose.. 1f7 Tb'e Van-Kinek House, Poug~hkese.......IS Cabridge Observatory, with Sears' Tower.........18 0 C-K e S o, Poug 72 Collegiate School. Poughkeepsie - 181 G ef'actor, Cambridae Observatory........... 72 Church of Our Lady, at Cold S Lawrence Scientific School, at Cambridge........... 73 Dover Stone Chur c Sn.-182 DvrtoeChurch18 Boston and Bunker Hill from the East................ 75St Paul's Church, Troy........184 Old City-Hall, and State Street, Boston..............- 77 View of the City of New York...187 Boston Common. with the Statehouse in the Distance. 79 Merchants' Exchane, Wall Street. NewYork City. 189 T ehouse, at Boston............................ Ex chan ge, Wa Be The Statehous, at Boston..81 The Old Billop House, at Bentley, West End of Sears' Plan for Improvement of Boston.............. 83 Staten sland.191 Residence of the Hon. David Sears, Boston Cornmmon.. 85 Cu.tomhouse, Boston..................... 8. 87 Seal of New Jersey.. 201 Liberty-Tree.................... 88 Delaware Water-Gap................201 1 Faneull Hall.....................8 Theological Seminary, Princeton...........209 BunerHil M-nmen, halesow........... 9 Washington's Headquarters, Morristown.......211 Blmunkrhil M omnCaeswnSource of the Passaic............... 213 Cemetery at M ount Aubiirn..............99 Seal of Pennsylvania................215Mount Tom and Mount liolyoke...........102 Head Waters of the Juniata, and the Allegany Amherst College.,with new Cabinet and Observatory. 10.5 Mountains................... 9.15 Portrait of John Winthrop, first Governor of Mass... 11o Treaty of William Penn with the Indians.......217 Death-bed of Winthrop...............114 City of Philadelphia.................219 Residence of the Adams Family, Quincy.......117 Philadelphia Excha-nge...............221 Yale College, State Seal, &cc.119......... i Customhouse (formerly United StateE Bank), PhilaNew Shaven College-Green. 123 ~~~Old Statehouse, or Independence HalIPhiladelphia.'22 5 Brdeat Norwich.................129 Eastern State Penitentiary, near Fairmount.....226 Prrit of John Winthrop, first Governor of Con. Ne upninBridge at Fairmount........230 necticut....................131 Fountain Park, Residence of Andrew M'Makin, Esq 232 ISeal of Rhode island................133 View of Pittsburg..-...............236 lading of Roger Williams............133 The Wyoming Valley, from Prospect Rock......239 12 LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS. Seal of Delaware............................ PAGE 253 Seal of Arkansas............................ G 459 Chesapeake and Delaware Canal.............. 253 Ozark Mountains.459 Seal of Maryland.. 260 Rocky Bluffs on the Mississippi.................... 462 Battle Monument................................. 260 Seal of Tennessee................................. 467 City of Baltimore................................. 269 Cumberland Mountains........................... 467 Washington Monument. Baltimore................. 271 City of Nashville....................... 474 Viaaact over the Patuxent, on the Baltimore and Washington Railroad.. 275BakLc47 Washm, n Rilrad....................275Seal of Kentucky........................... 476............. Bank Lick................................... 476 City of Washington............................... 280 Entrance to the Mammoth Cave..... 479 Capitol, Washington.............................. 283 City of Louisville................................. 483 President's House................................. 285 Seal of Ohio.486 Stale Department... 291 BenrastsIln.8 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Stae Departmen....................................1.. 486 SmthonanIntiuton................................. Blennerhasset's Island............................. 486 Scene in the Early Settlement of Ohio.............. 491 Seal of Virginia................................... 302 View of Cincinnati in 1800......................... 493 Shannondale Springs.............................. 302 View of Cincinnati in 1850......................... 495 Natural Bridge over Cedar Creek............. 304 The Landing-Place at Cincinnati................... 497 Ruins of Jamestown.............................. 315 New Catholic Cathedral, Cincinnati................ 499 Portrait of Washington........ 319 Lane Seminary. Walnut Hills, near Cincinnati...... 501 Birthplace of Washington......................... 321 Kenyon College, Gambier, Ohio. 502 Monticello, Residence of Jefferson............. 323 Antiquities-Silver Sword-Ornament............... 503 Rizhmond....................................... 326 Front and Back View of a Boss of the Sword-Belt 504 Statehouse, at Richmond................. 328 A Copper Plumb, or Pendant.................. 504 Monumental Church, Richmond................... 329 View of St;ubenville.............................. 507 Residence of Madison............................. 333 Seal of Michigan.. 514 Birthplace of Monroe.............................. 335 Pcue ok nLk 1 Side..~~~ Pictured Rocks on Lake Superior..........514 Harper's Ferry. from the Potomac Side.......... 339.. City of Detroit....................,............... 519 Mount Vernon, Residence of Washington........... 341.521 Death-bed of Washington....Mau. I...... 343 Tomb of Washington, Mount Vernon............ 345 Seal of Indiana.................................... 532o Yorktown....................................... 347 Cut-off River, near New Harmony................. 532 Negoro Cabin in Virginia.................. 349 Statehouse, at Indianapolis........................ 535 Seal of North Carolina............................ 352 erHnigWne cn........... 4 Seal of North Carolina.352 View on the Wabash River.............539 Pine Forest in North Carolina..................... 352 The Old Statehouse, at Raleigh.................... 361 Seal of Illinois.................................... 544 Seal of South Carolina............................ 365 Cave-in Rock, near Shawneetown.544 Lake Scene in South Carolina..................... 365 The Pioneer of the Western Forest.547 City of Charleston................................ 367 City of Chicago.53 Keowee Lake..................................... 373 Rock Fort, on the Illinois River.................... 557 Falls of the Charashilactay......................... 375 Mount Jliet.561 Charleston'Hotel................................. 376i Emigration to the West........................... 563 View in Meeting Street, Charleston................. 377 Encamphnent for the Night.565 Seal of Georgia................................... 379 Seal of Missouri................................... 5r;6 The Lover's Leap................................. 379 Elk-horn Pyramid, on the Upper Missouri.......... 566 Tullulah Falls.................................... 381 City of St. Louis.................................. 573 Rock Mountain................................... 383 Herd of Buffaloes and Elks......................... 578 Pulaski Monument, and Christ Church, Savannah... 385 Buffalo-Hunting................................... 58o Statehouse, at Milledgeville........................ 387 Seal of Iowa.582 City of Columbus................................. 389 Emigration.......................................582 Entrance to Madison Springs....................... 390 Log-Cabins and Sawmill at the West...............585 Medical College of Georgia........................ 391 Seal of Wisconsin.587 Oglethorpe University............................. 393Prairie on Fire.587 Falls of Towaliga................................. 395 View of the City of Milwaukie.....................591 Tockoa Falls..................................... 397 View of Southport, on Lake Michigan.............. 593 Seal of Florida.................................... 404 A Clearing, and Log-Hut.......................... 595 The Everglades................................... 404 Maideii's Rock, on the Missouri River.............. 597 Public Square at St. Augustine..................... 406 Seal of California.601 Seal of Alabama.................................. 412 Scene in the Valley of the Sacramento.............. 601 Tombizbee River................................. 412 California Emigrants at Panama converting Canoes in. City and Harbor of Mobile........................ 419 to Sailing-Vessels, in which to reach California.. 604 Seal of Mississippi................................ 428 San Francisco, from the Foot of Telegraph Hill. 613 A Wooding Station on the Mississippi River. 428 Iron House at San Francisco..61 View of Sacramento City, from the River;........... 619 Seal of Louisiana.................................. 436 Scene in the Mines-Washing out the Gold......... 623 Canebrakes...................................... 436 Rounded Water-worn Pebble of Gold, with Quartz.. 624 City of New Orleans.............................. 445 Foliated Gold intermingled with Quartz............ 625 Mississippi River, at Bend 100...................... 447 Lump of Gold, as it came from the Mines........... 625 Seal of Texas —................................... 449 Specimens of Gold-Dust and Gold in Crystals....... 625 The Texan Hunter's Home.e.................. 45 View of Astoria. on the Columbia River............ 631 Catching Wild Horses on a Prairie................. 453 View of Oregon City, at the Falls of the Willamette.. 633 Galveston........................................ 455 Houston......................................... 457 Seal of the United States.................. 648 MAINE, N ALTHOUGH Maine was settled by -YU^_ Europeans several years before any A,__d'd'^- __..~-.'other part of New England, it was'~h~ ~not admitted into the Union as a state "_/..~~" ~l[~!],,,~11 ~" until 1820. Previously to that perij l'~ ~[~ w ~ \ od it was a mere territory of Massachusetts, and lonog bore the title of ~.~ ~~\.',,,i ~ ~ 9the ", district of Maine." In point.... ~ ~ ~k~ i~ ~ Lof extent, however, and rapidity of ~'x~'~k~'~\ Ggrowth, it ranks at the head of the -.2 E!l;l P - ->! l eastern states; embracing, between X,,,:; E M. ~ its distant limits of Lower Canada GC~."*'~ k_~~~~[w on the north, New Brunswick on the - east, the Atlantic on the south, and.........New Hampshire on the west, an area of 33,223 square miles. A considerable part of the northwestern division of the state is mountainous, and there are rough tracts and peaks of considerable elevation in some other parts; but in the north the surface is generally even, although the height is considerable, dividing the waters of the St. Lawrence from those emptying into the ocean. The Allegany range, which first appears in Alabama, and traverses all the intermediate Atlantic states, with mountains or hills of different breadth and elevation, is considered as terminating in that cluster of wild and lofty heights which occupy the northwestern counties of Maine; beyond which no ridge is to be found, except that of the greatly rising land in the north just mentioned. The highest land east of the Mississippi, excepting only Mount Washington, and a few of its neighboring peaks, in the heart of the New Hampshire White hills, is Katahdin mountain, on the Penobscot river, near the centre of this state. It is 5,335 feet high. The other most elevated points are Speckled, Whiteface, Bald, and Saddleback mountains, north of Androscoggin river, and not far from the western boundary of the state. The rivers of Maine present some striking peculiarities. The surface of the state is divided into unequal parts by the courses of the Penobscot, Kennebec, 14 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. and Androscoggin, which run nearly] being almost entirely engrossed, on the south, in directions nearly parallel and one hand, by the cutting of timber in equidistant; while, as they approach the the interior, its transportation to the sea, a number of smaller streams flow mills at the falls of the rivers, the sawin short courses between them, subdivi- ing and exportation of it to the different ding the coast into many capes and pe- ports of the Union and the West Indies; ninsulas, whose number is still further and, on the other hand, by the fisheries increased by bays and coves which set along the coast. The increase of pop-'up into the land every few miles, and ulation, however, with the rapid disapfringe the southern outline of the state pearance of the forests in the immediate along its whole extent of 221 miles, from vicinity of streams, together with the Kittery point to Quoddy head. The diffusion of just views of the important e northern part of the map presents count- and methods of agriculture, have Iproless small streams pouring into the main duced great and extensive improvetrunks of the rivers above-mentioned, of ments; and the benefits resulting to which they are the tributaries; while the state are already incalculably great. still above them, flowing with a long Manufactures have also been introduced sweep, from north to east and southeast, to a considerable extent, while the minthe St. John's, the principal stream of eral resources have begun to be develthe state, encircles the whole, marking oped, as iron, slate, marble, and espeout the present northern boundary, cially limestone, which is celebrated for till it crosses the eastern boundary, and its excellent quality. Literary instituflows on through the neighboring Brit- tions have been multiplied and well supish province of New Brunswick. ported, and the common-school system The valley of the Saco embraces 650 has been placed on a liberal foundation. square miles, that of the Androscoggin Trade is much favored by the nature 3,300, the Kennebec 5,280, and the of the coast and the character of some Penobscot 8,200. The smaller streams of the principal rivers; and already great in the south part of the state, before al- improvements have been made by the luded to, are the Piscataqua, Sheepscot, construction of roads, railroads, and ca Damariscotta, Muscongus, Union, Nar- nals, and the establishment of steamboat ragaugus, and Machias. The region lines. The principal ports and places of between the Penobscot and the Kenne- trade are Portland, Hallowell, Bangor, bec, a distance of fifty miles, is remark- Calais, Brunswick, and Belfast; and ably well supplied with stieams and in- Saco, Machias, and Eastport, have also lets, so that almost every town has a excellent harbors. The exports are navigable channel of its own. chiefly timber, lumber, dried fish, salt The soil along the Atlantic border, pork and beef, lime, and pot and pearl extending from ten to twenty miles back ashes. from the coast, is generally poor, al- The business of cutting, transporting, though varying from sand to gravel, and manufacturing timber, includes maclay and loam, producing small crops of ny laborious operations, and occupies a glass, Indian corn, rye, &c. The next considerable part of the population. belt of land, from fifty to one hundred Trees are felled in the winter, drawn miles wide, is of better quality, and by oxen to the nearest water-course, and yields, in addition to these articles, left upon the ice, marked with the axe wheat, oats, flax, and hemp, as well as in such a manner that they may be recmost of the northern plants. The tract ognised by the agents of the cwner, stabetween the Kennebec and Penobscot tioned on the lower parts of the main is remarkably favorable to grazing, and, river. In the spring, at the melting of when well cultivated, yields forty bush- the deep snows, the floods carry down els of corn, and from twenty to forty the timber with the broken ice; and, bushels of wheat, to the acre. Agricul- after a long voyage, every log is drifted ture was greatly neglected for many to the falls of the great stream on whose years, the attention of the inhabitants I branches it has grown. Here numerous DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. 15 mills a.e kept in active operation by the of cellar-walls and chimneys are found. powerful currents, which bring down as also broken kettles, wedges, &c. At abundant materials to employ them. the head of the bay are the hulks of two Above these are long rafts, or floating or three large vessels sunk in the water; bridges, called buoys, formed of logs, and on the shore, the ruins of an old connected strongly together, and stretch- gristmill, where the present one stands. ed from bank to bank, to stop the float- On the islands opposite the town, are ing timber. Men are continually em- other ruins, the history of which is unployed with boats, in the spring, in, known, as is also that of those already bringing it to the shore as it comes mentioned. The following interesting down; and great care is taken to dis- facts afford a guide to their origin. pose of each stick according to the di- In the year 1605, Captain Weymouth, rection of the owner, whose name is of Plymouth, in England, returned from known from the mark. The millers, an unsuccessful voyage made for the diswith their circular saws and other ma- covery of a northwest passage, bringing chines, saw whole rafts of logs into with him five American savages, whom millions of planks, boards, shingles, he had taken on board in the Penobscot staves, headings, &c.; and vessels, lying river. Sir Fernando Gorges felt so much at the foot of the falls, readily receive interest in these men from a new world, their cargoes of lumber from the doors that, to use his own language, he " seized of the mills, slid down upon their decks upon" them, and had three of them in and into their holds; and, hoisting sail, his own family for three years; and steer away for many a distant harbor. "this accident must be acknowledged as HIsTORY.-TheJesuits in Lower Can- the means, under God, of putting on foot ada early began their intercourse with and giving life to all our plantations." the Indian tribes in Maine, and soon He obtained much information fiom the established a mission on the Penobscot, Indians, and became, from that time, which, according to custom, became a deeply interested in schemes for the setcentre of intrigue and of military oper- tlement of the New World, and an active ations against the New England settle- member of the Plymouth company. ments. It was at length cut off by an The first settlement was attempted by expedition from Massachusetts, by which, Englishmen, on the Kennebec, at the in a sudden attack, the Jesuit chief, early date of 1609, the same year as that Ralle, was killed. The remnants of of Jamestown. King James having, by the Penobscot tribe are, to this day, request, granted a patent, in 1606, divichiefly Roman catholics. Previously to ding the coast into North and South Virthe landing in Massachusetts bay, a col- ginia, this part of Maine was embraced ony was commenced on the coast of in the former, which extended from the Maine, by Gorges and Mason, under a 38th to the 45th degree of north latitude. grant from the council of Plymouth, While Gosnold, with Captain Smith foir England, to whom the territory had been his agent, commenced planting a lcolony g'anted by King James I., in 1606. at Jamestown, Captains George Popham The first settlements made, at Damaris- and Raleigh Gilbert led another to the cotta and a few other points on the coast, mouth of the Kennebec. They landed were soon abandoned; and few traces near the island of Monheagan, a few are to be found of any of them. Few leagues east of that river, and soon after motives were offered to colonists, to entered the stream, and stopped at an counterbalance the inhospitable nature island near its eastern shore, now formof the country, the severityof the cli- ing a part of Georgetown. As Chiefmate, and the exposure to interference Justice Popham had procured an accufrom the Indians and French. rate survey of the river the year before, Two or three miles from the road it is probable that this place was chosen that leads between Linniken's bay and in England, before the sailing of the exDamariscotta river, where was formerly pedition. an Indian burying-place, the remains But the history of this colony is short 16 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. and melancholy. As it did not arrive siderably with the savages for beaveruntil August, there was not sufficient skins, &c. time to complete the necessary prepara- In the southwestern parts of the state tions for the winter, which set in early are several scenes of the later and more and with rigor. A fort was erected, but permanent settlements. many arrangements, important to the Pegipscot Falls.-Near Lewistown, comtfort of the people, could not be on the Androscoggin river, is a remarkmade; and, as the ships returned in able cataract, where the current breaks December, about half of the number through a range of mountains, and pours embarked in them, apprehending severe over a broken ledge of rocks. The sufferings from the cold and the want of scene is wild and striking, and derives food. Part of the buildings and provis- an additional interest fiom its connexion ions were soon after destroyed by fire; with the history of a tribe of Indians and Captain Popham died before spring. long since extinct. According to a traThe first ships brought the news of the de- dition current in the neighborhood, the cease of the chief-justice; and the pain- upper parts of this stream were formerly ful intelligence of the death of a brother the residence of the Rockmego Indians, rendered it necessary for Captain Gilbert who inhabited a fine and fertile plain to return to England. The remaining through which the river winds. The colonists, becoming disheartened, aban- situation was remote, and they had never doned their enterprise; and, the place engaged in anyhostilities with the whites, being deserted, the Plymouth company but devoted themselves to hunting and did not lrepeat the experiment. fishing. The ground still contains many Gorges, one of the most intelligent remains of their weapons, utensils, &c. and devoted friends of America among They were, however, at length persuathe members of the Plymouth colony, ded to engage in a hostile incursion endeavored in vain to induce them to against Brunswick, at that time an exsend out a second colony. Unwilling, posed frontier settlement; and the whole however, to see the object wholly aban- tribe embarked in their canoes to acdoned, he engaged in private enterprises complish the enterprise. The stream for trading with the natives and fishing; flows gently on for a great distance, unand, in 1616, sent out a party, under the til it approaches very near to the falls; command of Richard Vines, to explore and this was the spot appointed for the this part of the coast. They penetrated night encampment. Night set in before into the country, and were kindly treat- their arrival; and they sent two men ed; but they found the people suffering forward to make fires upon the banks a from the smallpox, and the hostile at- little above the cataract. For some untacks of the Tarrantines, a nation east known reason, the fires were kindled of the Penobscot. They met with the below the falls; and the Indians, being Indians who had been in England, and thus deceived concerning their situation, received special marks of favor from did not bring up their canoes to the them. On the approach of winter, which shore in season, and were carried over they had agreed to spend in the country, the rocks, and the tribe all destroyed tothey chose a spot on the western side of gether. Saco river, at its mouth. Some of them It was along the valley of the Kennetook up a hundred acres of land on lease bec that the expedition, formed in the from Vines, one of which was for a thou- winter of 1775-'6, for the capture of sand years, at the annual rent of two Quebec,proceeded. The hardships they shillings and one capon, after the pay- endured were very severe, as the counment of a previous compensation. The try at that time was wholly destitute of lease, partly in Latin, was executed in inhabitants through almost the whole 1638. A considerable trade was carried route, after leaving the seacoast, until on here for some years, the colonists approaching the valley of the St. Lawemploying themselves both in agricul- rence. The plan had been formed and ture and in fishing, besides trading con- adopted while the American army was DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. 17 engaged in the siege of Boston, and The Nubble is a rocky point, four and General Montgomery was placed at the a half miles from York, and Cape Nedhead of it. Benedict Arnold was among dock lies beyond. While travelliJng the most active of the officers. After along this dreary country, the road passnumerous delays, caused by the difficul- es the site of an old'fort or blockhouse, ties of navigation and transportation, built before Philip's war. The Agacold and hunger, they arrived at the menticus hills form a range some disFrench settlements; but being unable tance west. to proceed with desirable rapidity, or to LOWER WEILEs.-There is a little cross the St. Lawrence immediately after harbor here, defended by a sandbar, with reaching its shore, the inhabitants had a narrow entrance under a rock; but it time to make preparations; and, instead is almost dry at low water. of taking the city by surprise, and at WELLES.-The sea often breaks beauonce finding comfortable quarters, they tifully on the beach, in fiont of the tavwere able only to encamp on the heights ern. Porpoise point is just distinguishof Abraham, after scaling the precipitous able in the northeast, and the view of shore at Wolfe's cove, with an army be- the sea is fine and refreshing. tween them and the walls. This un- Three miles beyond is Breakneck hill, fortunate expedition failed, after losing over which falls a small stream, fiom the their commander, who was killed in an height of thirty feet, about forty yards unsuccessful attempt to gain the lower fiom the path. The old fort was half a town by a night attack, and Arnold, with mile beyond, or a quarter of a mile from a large division e, the forces, who were the church. This little fortress was once made prisoners in an assault on the up- attacked by five hundred Indians, who per town. at first supposed, as was the fact, that The first newspaper in Maine was the men were absent from home. The printed on January 1, 1785. It was place was, however, very bravely and called the " Falmouth Gazette and successfully defended by five women, Weekly Advertiser," and published at dressed in their husband's clothes. Falmouth (now Portland), by Benjamin PORTLaND.-The situation of this Titcomb and Thomas B. Wait, on a demy place is remarkably fine, occupying the sheet. Its name was changed to the ridge and side of a high point of land, "Cumberland Gazette," in 1786. The with a handsome though shallow bay on second was commenced in the same one side, and the harbor on the other. town, in 1790, called the 1 "Maine Ga- The anchorage is protected on every zette," by Benjamin Titcomb, and con- side by land, the water is deep, and the tinued till 1796; at which time there communication with the sea direct and were but three newspapers in Maine, convenient. Congress street runs along one of them at Hallowell, and one at the ridge of the hill, and contains a Augusta. In 1810, there were eight number of very elegant private houses. newspapers, and, in 1850, fifty-six. There is also the town-hall, with the The first daily paper was begun at market below, and a beautiful church, Portland, October 13, 1829, and called with granite columnrs. The steps are the " Daily Cour'ier;" and the second, fine blocks of granite, six by nine feet, the "Daily Evening Advertiser," in brought from the quarry at Brunswick, 1831. twenty-two miles distant. YoRK.-There are some pleasant fields From the observatory, south and southabout this little place, but its size is in- west, are seen several distant eminences: significant, when compared with the an- among others, the Agamenticus hills; ticipations formed of its destiny at the northwest are seen, in clear weather, the time of its first settlement; for the lofty ridges and peaks of the White hills ground was laid out for streets, and the in New Hampshire, which are discovdivisions of the land still retain much of ered at sea often before the nearer land the regular form given it by the first sur- appears in sight. veyors. Population, about 3,500 Cape Elizabeth is the highland on the 18 DESCRIPTION OF THE -STATE OF MAINE. south side of the harbor; and the islands, fifty-four miles northeast from Portland, which nearly close the entrance, are and is a place of much business, and one called Bangs's and House islands. Fort of the principal in the state. The KenPreble stands on the former, and Fort nebec is navigable in vessels of one hunScammel on the latter. Due east is dred and fifty tons, and an extensive and Seguin lighthouse, which is visible, in productive tract of country is dependclear weather, thirty-two miles distant, ent on it. Granite of excellent quality at the mouth of the Kennebec. Nearer, abounds in the vicinity, which is quarand in the same quarter, lie numerous ried on a considerable scale. islands of various forms. BRUNSWICK.-This town is situated The intrenchments on the hill, west on the left bank of the Androscoggin rivof the observatory, belong to Fort Sum- er, at the Pejepfcot falls, which here ner, and part of them were made during make an extensive water-power. It conthe Revolutionary war. Under the bluff, tains about six thousand inhabitants, ten on the water's edge, is Fort Burroughs. churches, two academies, cotton and woolPortland (the former name was Fal- len factories, and is the seat of mouth) was burnt in the Revolutionary Bowdoin College.-The two larger war by Captain Mowatt, in the British buildings represented in the engraving, sloop-of-war Canceau, on the 18th of are occupied by the students. The threeOctober, 1775, on the refusal of the story building contains the mineralogical inhabitants to deliver up their arms. cabinet, gallery ofpaintings, medical cabiAbout one hundred and thirty houses, net, the library, and lecture rooms. The three quarters of all the place contained, northerly of the two central buildings, were consumed, some being set on fire besides rooms for the students, has reciwith brands, after a cannonade andbom- tation-rooms, and two spacious apartbardment ofnine hours. The old church ments for the libraries of two societies. is among the buildings saved, and has This edifice was erected in place of the the mark of a cannon-shot in it. A small one destroyed by fire in 1.836. The part of the hotel belonged to one of the three-story building is called Massachuhouses not destroyed. There are many setts hall, the large building on the south, fine stores and dwelling-houses in the Maine hall, the other, North college. middle of the town, and the shore is It was after several petitions had been lined with shipping. Pop. 28,000. presented to the government of MassaAUGUSTA.-This town, the capital of chusetts, that, in 1731, a bill was introKennebec county, is fifty-six miles duced for the establishment of a college northeast from Portland, and two miles in the district of Maine, which was to north of Hallowell. It stands on both be called Bowdoin college, after the dissides of the Kennebec, forty-seven miles tinguished governor of that name. It from its mouth, and has a bridge across was not built, however, until 1734, duthat river, connecting its two parts. It ring which time Brunswick was chosen is a place of some trade, being at the as the seat of the college. This act also head of sloop-navigation. The situation appointed a board of trustees, which was is pleasant, on the top and sides of an to consist of thirteen members, and a elevation. Population, 9,000. board of overseers, of forty-five memThe statehouse has a front of one hun- bers, who were to regulate the institudred and fifty feet, toward the east, with tion. At the same time a grant was two wings, of thirty-three and fifty-four made to it of five townships of wild land feet, on a plan somewhat resembling that in the interior of Maine. Immediately at Boston; and its position, on Capitol after its establishment, Governor Bowhill, is commanding. It is built of gran- doin's son, honorable James Bowdoin, ite, and has eight granite columns, twen- made to it a donation of a thousand acres ty-one feet high, each weighing ten tons. of land, and upward of eleven hundred The top of the dome is one hundred and pounds in money. Now the business fourteen feet from the ground. of the boards was the erection of a suitHALLOWELL is a considerable town, able building. Accordingly, a meeting I I/ I/ /,dw =Jim 20 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. was called at Brunswick, in 1796, for proaching our country. It is 41 miles the.selection of a location. This town east-northeast from Machias, 176 miles is on a sandy plain, south of the Andros- east firom Augusta, and 279 miles eastcoggin river The plain is slightly ele- northeast from Portland. It contains vated, nearly a mile south of the river; 2,500 inhabitants. and this spot was chosen as the most Moose island, on which Eastport is desirable situation for the college. Al- situate-], lies in Passamaquoddy bay, and though the uninterrupted level of the is foulr miles long, surrounded by deep ground, and the dark green of the pin.es water, and connected with Lubec by a and firs, render the scenery of Bruns- ferry, and with Perry by a bridge. wick rather monotonous, yet, by its quiet The village is in the south part of the retirement, it is well adapted for the seat island, and is a place of considerable of an institution of learning. Shortly business; the lumber-trade and fishing after, the brick building, called Massa- being carried on with activity. chusetts hall, was erected, and received BANGOR.-This city is situated on the the name which it still bears. west side of the Penobscot, at the head The boards assembled, in July, 1801, of navigation, on an elevation which for the election of a president. The commands an extensive view. There is Rev. Dr. M'Keere, firom Beverley, Mas- a bridge across the river, 1,329 feet in sachusetts, was chosen; apn Mr. John length; and the place contains a courtAbbott was chosen professor of lan- house, a jail, seven churches, a bank, guages. They were inducted into office two academies, and a population of on the 2d of September. Also, at this fifteen thousand. It is thirty-five miles time, eight students were admitted to north fiom Castine, sixty-five northeast the institution. The services were per- of Augusta, and two hundred and twenformed on a stage which was raised un- ty-two miles from Boston, with which der a grove of evergreens, near to the communication is held by steamboats, college. In 1804, Mr. Samuel Willard touching at Portland, to which latter entered the college as tutor, and the fol- place rail-roadtrains run daily. An exlowing year Mr. Parker Cleaveland was tensive trade in lumber is carried on at installed professor of mathematics and Bangor. The distance from the sea, at natural history. Mr. Bowdoin had given Owl's Head point, is thirty miles. one thousand acres of land toward this The spot now occupied by the town professorship. was in a wilderness only about fifty The first commencement of this col- years ago. The region above, lying in lege was in 1806, when the honors of the the valley of the Penobscot, and natuinstitution were conferred upon seven rally tributary to Bangor, is an area of young men. The name of Richard Goff, nine thousand square miles. The waEsq., of Boston, stands first on the list ter-power is abundant, and applicable to of graduates. This was the only com- a great variety of machinery. There mencement at which President M'Keene are few places in the Union which poswas allowed to preside, for, in July of sess greater advantages of this kind. the following year, he was removed by The lumber-trade, which has formed the death from the scene of his labors. chief source of business and prosperity, EASTPORT, on Moose island, occupy- must necessarily decrease; but the clearing the extreme point of the coast of the ing of the land will as naturally be acUnited States on the eastern border, is companie(l with the extension of agria spot interesting alike fo)r its military culture and the increase of its more importance and its natural features. valuable products, which will of course The ground is rocky, and rises abruptly seek their vent through this town. Navfifrom the western shore of St. Croix igation is active during thesummer-seariver, to a considerable eminence, which son, and much transportation is peris crowned by the fort, on which waves formed in the winter in sleighs. The the first American flag that greets the soil in the neighborhood is good for eye of a traveller from the east, on ap- brickmakingc ~lc-_ —-- —. _,_ 7~~~~~~~~~~~-_=; — _ —~ —-:- CE- — I — It':l B —1-2 —--- li 1"'~~~~~~~~~~~-"`~~I lul ~~~~~L~~~~~~~-E —-=i~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_~~~: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~n-__n;=~s. _______ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-_ _- _________._..=__ View of Eastport. 22 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. Bangor, on account of its rapid growth, die," on leaving the pulpit he dropped as well as its important position, and the down dead. Five years afterward the beauty of its situation, is the place of building was destroyed by fire; and, the greatest note in the interior of the in 1831, a handsome brick edifice was state. The Kenduskeag enters the Pe- erected in its place. nobscot nearly at right-angles, dividing In 1828, three houses for public worthe town into two parts, and diversify- ship were commenced, by societies of ing the surface in the environs with high methodists, baptists, and unitarians, and and picturesque banks. The town ap- several others were erected a few years pears to great advantage on approach- later; and, in 1832, a large courthouse, ing it from down the valley of the Pe- with county offices, and a jail. nobscot, as it is gradually disclosed to The Theological Seminary has three view, displaying its numerous clusters professors, about fifty students, and a liof houses spread up the rising grounds brary of seven thousand volumes. The and over the more level surface on the classical and theological course occupies summit of the bank. On the northwest four years. It was instituted, in 1815, side of the town the eminence commands to prepare young men to preach the an extensive and charming view, Mount gospel. A tract of five acres of land Katahdin appearing in the distance, in was given to the institution by Isaac clear weather, though more than seventy Davenport, of Milton, Massachusetts, on miles off, its head often capped with which the present fine building stands. snow. It is of brick, four stories high, and enJudge Williamson's History of Maine joys an elevated and commanding situainforms us, that the first settlement was tion. A second edifice, of a similar demade in this place in the year 1769, scription, with houses for the professors, when only one family became the inhab- was afterward planned. The instituitants. A second followed in the course tion is under the direction of a board of of 1770; and two years later there were trustees, and has a fund of about a huntwelve families. In 1787, the first pub- dred and twenty thousand dollars. lie meeting was held, to procure a pas- The Bangor House is one of the ornator and a place for public worship; when ments of the town. It is constructed on the Rev. Seth Noble, a whig refugee a plan resembling that of the Tremont from Nova Scotia, was appointed, and house in Boston, and was built in 1836. received his ordination under the shade There is a bridge across the Penobof an oak-tree. He received a salary scot, and three across the Kenduskeag. of four hundred dollars from the people Two of the latter were built by individresiding on both sides of the river, and uals. remained there twelve years. He was The first printing-office was opened appointed, in 1791, to procure an act of in Bangor in the year 1815, by Peter incorporation from the Massachusetts Edes. The first bank was established legislature; and, although the people in 1818; and banks have since been mulproposed to call the place Sunbury, the tiplied to supply the demands of the expresent name was chosen. tensive lumber-business and navigation The courthouse (now the city-hall) carried on here. The ice interrupts the was the first public building erected in river-trade during four or five months in the place, in 1812. It was occupied for the year; but the river is generally open public worship, as well as for various to Frankfort, twelve miles below. other public purposes, until 1822. That The first railroad in the state was that year the first meetinghouse was built, from Bangor to Oldtown, in Oxford counby the only religious society existing ty, twelve miles of which was opened in there. The Rev. Harvey Loomis, who 1836, at an expense of $250,000. was ordained in 1811, officiated in it un- The market-house is large, and well til 1822, when, having preached a new- planned. A rural cemetery, on the plan year's sermon, on the 2d of January, of that of Mount Auburn, near Boston, from the text, "This year thou shalt was laid out in 1836, two miles from the DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. 23 city, enclosing about thirty acres; of FRYEBURG, sixty miles northwest of which twenty belong to the public, and I Portland, is remarkable both for its sitthe remainder to individuals. A fine uation and its history. The township, greenhouse is connected with it. in its extent of six square miles, embraces In the neighborhood of Bangor, sev- a rich and beautiful valley, secluded on eral small manufacturing villages have every side by a wild and mountainous been founded by capitalists, where large range of country. The Saco river, taquantities of timber are sawn. king its rise on Mount Washington, and Nort/h Bangor.-Here are the mills flowing through the notch in the White of the Penobscot Milldam company. It hills, passes down the valley to Conway, is four miles from Bangor, on the road where it finds the termination of the to Orono, and three miles from- southern range; and then turning abLower Stillwater Village, another of ruptly to the east, soon enters the charmthese industrious settlements, situated, ing meadows of Fryeburg, and performs like the preceding, on the Kenduskeag. a serpentine course of no less than thirThe ample water-power at these places ty-six miles within the limits' of the admits of a large amount of business. township. The population of Bangor experi- The Indian fort was on a gentle hill enced a very rapid increase in the course at the western side of the village, which of a few years. In 1793, there were commands a view of the Saco valley but forty-five rateable polls in the town. six miles up its course, and six miles In 1800, the population was 277; in down. 1810, 850; in 1820, 1,221; in 1830, Lovel's Pond is on an isthmus, about 2,868; in 1840, 8,627; in 1850, 14,441. one mile southeast fiom the village, and BATII, thirty-four miles northeast from is memorable as the scene of one of the Portland, and one hundred and fifty-three most severe and disastrous battles in the northeast from Boston, is situated on the [ old partisan warfare against the Indians. western side of theKennebec, and occu- The Portland road passes along the pies a considerable eminence, on a piece western side of the pond, and affords a of land almost isolated by.several arms view of its north end. This was the of the sea, from which it is distant about place of the action. Another road runs twelve miles. It is a considerable town, very near the north shore; and it is a of 8,500 inhabitants, extends along the pleasant ride to the place. river a mile and a half, and back from it Lovel's Expedition.-In 1725, Captain about three fourths of a mile. The har- Lovel undertook a secret expedition bor is excellent, and fireely admits to its through the wilderness against the Pickwharves ships of the largest size. There waket tribe of Indians. Instigated by are in the town two banks and five acad- the French, they had committed many emies. Steamboats communicate daily depredations on the frontier, so that the with Portland and Boston during nearly general court of Massachusetts had ofthe whole year. fered one hundred pounds each for their CASTINE, the capital of Hancock coun- scalps. His company consisted of thirty, occupies a promontory on the east ty or forty men, many of them accusside of Penobscot bay, and has a good tomed to the life of hardy hunters and harbor, always open, and accessible to settlers, with young Mr. Frye for their large vessels. It is in latitude forty-four chaplain, whose history was somewhat degrees and twenty-four minutes, seven- romantic, and from whom this town rety-eight miles from Augusta, and a hun- ceived its name. They passed up Windred and twenty-two east-northeast from nipiseogee lake, Ossipee pond, the Saco, Portland. Pop. 2,000. and encamped at the mouth of Mill HOULTON is a military post an a small brook, at the northwest corner oi Lovbranch of St. John's river, near the line el's pond. It happened that the Indians of New Brunswick. It is one hundred had gone down the Saco river, and on and twenty miles north-northeast from their return, discovering tracks, pursued Bangor. them toward Lovel's pond, and, having [ 24 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. discovered the encampment, and the way breadth. It is in latitude forty-four they had gone, removed their packs, and, degrees twelve minutes, and comprises forming an ambush around the place, a township of the same name. fired upon them, on their return, and With so large a surface as Maine killed eight men. The white men re- comprehends, such supplies of timber, treated to the northeast corner of the and such remarkable facilities for pro pond, where is a narrow strip of land, curing, sawing, and transporting it; and defended themselves till night; and with so much valuable land cleared and the remains of thb unfortunate expe- clearing as the forests are removed; todition returned through the forest, suf- gether with a population of such enerfering fiom hunger and fatigue, and getic character and intelligence, a more some of them from wounds. rapid increase of numbers, wealth, and Sebago Lake. —This is one of the power, might be anticipated, if more numerous bodies of water, of different genial climates and more luxuriant soils forms and sizes, which spot the surface did not attract the great masses of emiof Me ine, and cover so large a part of grants in other directions. In spite, it. It has been estimated that, including however, of the richness of the western lakes and rivers, one sixth part of the and southern lands, and the softness of surface of the state is water. Sebago the climates in the new states and terrilake is in Cumberland county, and thir- tories, Maine will probably continue to teen miles by twenty in extent, nearly improve, and to experience a more solid divided by a long cape, which extends and substantial growth than could be from the eastern side, in Raymond, in a produced by the introduction of a less southwest direction. No less than five educated and hardy population. townships lie upon its shores. It re- According to the censuses, taken succeives Crooked river from the north, cessively, Maine contained 96,540 inwith the waters of Long lake, which habitants in 1790; 151,719 in 1800; flow into that stream through its outlet. 228,705 in 1810; 298,335 in 1820; Presumpscut river, which drains Sebago 399,955 in 1830; 501,793 in 1810; arid lake from the south, falls into Casco 583,088 in 1850. bay, and affords a channel of navigation Maine has a stringent law fior the in boats to Portland. suppression of traffic in intoxicating liMIoosehead Lake, in Kennebec coun- quors. It allows the seizure and confisty, and the source of the east branch cation of liquor wherever found, with of Kennebec river, is sixty miles in the exception of places designated by length, of an irregular form, and sur- proper authority, where it may be sold rounded by a tract of country but little for mechanical or medicinal purposes. inhabited. Those who are discovered with this illicit 3ount Desert Liglktouse.-Off a part article of traffic in their possession, are of f;he coast remarkable for its deso- allowed no redress for the loss by the late and forbidding character, and upon confiscation of their property; and the a small barren rock, is erected the tall attempt to try the matter judicially is and fine lighthouse depicted in the vig- ineffectual, as the courts are forbidden nette at the head of this description. to entertain suits of this description. One of the spots most dangerous to The contrast presented in this state, passing ships, and most destitute of the by a comparison between the present means of subsistence for shipwrecked and several past periods of its history, strangers, is thus provided with one of is striking indeed. The most favorable those marks for navigators which now'effects resulted from its separation firom occupy every important point along our i Massachusetts and erection into a state. seawJoard, from one extremity of the Legislation, with the energies of the peocountry to the other. ple, has effected wonders; while comAMount Desert island, which lies be- merce, agriculture, manufactures, and tween'Union river and Desert sound, is education, are annually making advances, fifteen miles in length, and twelve in which bid fair to continue. _____________________________ i DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 25 NEW1 HAPSHIRE, THis state is bounded on the north; by Canada, east by Maine, south by, t Massachusetts, and west by Vermont. Connecticut river forms a part of the northern boundary, and its western shore the whole of the western, the ____i entire breadth of the stream belong~'.~- ing to New Hampshire. Extending from latitude forty-two to forty-five, and having much mountainous surface, the climate is cold, and in some parts severe, although the southern regions, being both low and nearer. the ocean, have milder seasons and',; CSe~ L~ qvmw slhorter winters. The Allegany range, which crosses this state near the middle, though here far distant from its broadest ranges, has its highest peaks in the White hills, whose principal eminences tower above all other peaks this side of the Rocky mountains. In that region are the sources of the principal rivers of the state. The Merrimack rises from the outlet of WVinnipiseogee lake, a broad and beautiful sheet of water lying at the, foot of the southern eminences of that Alpine region; while the Ammonoosuc, pouring down the steep declivity of Mourt W\ashington, finds its way to the Connecticut; and the Saco, a direct tributary to the Atlantic, after rising within!bow yards of the Ammonoosuc, is soon diverted in an opposite channel, an(t, flowintig through the celebrated Notch in the mountains, waters the most Alpine region of New England, before it reaches the manufactories at its mouth, which are moved by its power. The impediments offered to navigation are not only, in a great measure, court terbalanced by the abundance of valuable water-power afforded by nature, but are obviated by science and art, in the construction of railroads as well as canals, which have been multiplied within a few years, in proportion to the increasing demands created by the numerous manufactories. In all these branches of 26 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. improvement, New Hampshire has dis- Lowell, in Massachusetts, occupies the played a degree of intelligence and en- most advantageous point on the Merri. terprise unsurpassed by any other state, mac, on the south side, by which it is in proportion to her extent and re- supplied with abundant water-power. sources, and promises to reap from them LAKEs. —Winnipiseogee lake is relong-continued benefits. markable for its picturesque shores, and A large part of her territory is ren- numerous and beautiful islands, as well dereal seless by lofty, wild, barren, and as for the fine scenery which here bealmost inaccessible mountains. The gins to display itself, offering, to the surface, soil, and climate there discour- traveller from the south, the first and age almost any attempt at cultivation, distant introduction to the noble feaand in many places entirely refuse a tures of the White mountains. It is spot for the habitation of man. Im- twenty-three miles in length and ten in mense masses of stone, however, which breadth, measured in the widest part. have been brought down from those re- The water is remarkably clear, and gions, by some ancient cause nbt easily abounds in fish. explained, are spread over the surface Squam Lake, situated north of it, is for seventy or eighty miles south, and six miles long and three wide, and lies have supplied the state with one of the at the bottom of a deep and narrow valchief sources of its'wealth. Blocks of ley, surrounded by several mountainous granite and sienite have been cut up elevations, except on the side where it for building, and transported to near sends an inlet intoWinnipiseogee. Fine and many distant places, often at great trout abound here, which are taken in profit. The New Hampshire stones of considerable numbers, and salted for these kinds, like those firom some of the market. adjacent states, are known, used, and' Above these lie Ossipee and Sunapee highly valued, and form'the materials in lakes, which are of inferior size. constructing many of the finest edifices CONNECTICUT RIVER.-This is the in our cities, even to the southern ex- principal stream of New England, both tremities of our country. for size, the rich and populous country The northern extremity of this state through which'it passes, and the large is in latitude forty-five degrees eleven meadows which it annually overflows minutes, and the southern in forty-two and fertilizes. It rises in the elevated degrees forty-one minutes. The area region between this state and Canada, is 9,280 square miles; and the popula- in a pond called Lake Ctnnecticut; and tion in 1S50 was 317,864. New Hamp- its eastern branch marks the boundary shire has the smallest extent of seacoast between the two countries, to a point of all the Atlantic states-only eighteen at the distance of one mile from the miles. There is but one good harbor forty-fifth degree of north latitude. The in the state-viz., Portsmouth. where is course of the river is nearly south. and, a navy-yard of the United States. Ly- after separating New Hampshire and ing at the mouth of the Piscataqua river, Vermont, it flows on through Massachuand ltiving a great depth of water, this setts and Connecticut, and falls into port is deficient in one very important Long Island sound at Saybrook. It respect. That river is navigable but a is navigable in sloops to Hartford, in short distance, when it is broken by a steamboats a few miles further, and in fall. The Merrimac has a succession flat-bottomed boats through Massachuof rapids, which have been canalled and setts to the middle of this state. locked all along its course, and render Short canals, with locks, are formed it useful for boat navigation. But its round the falls at Enfield, Connecticut, principal value is for manufacturing, in and South Hadley, Massachusetts; but which respect, however, it is one of the the Farmington canal, with its extension most valuable streams in the United to Northampton in the last-mentioned States. The largest and most flourish- state, takes off a portion of the trade to ing manufacturing town in the Union, New Haven; and much freight, as well _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ -- 1 j j --- --------------------------------------- -------— --I---2- -; —---- - --E —=l-==== E5TZ-=_===-z- —-__ —T —-=-_-_-____ ___________ = —-9LT- —-;i-= —— —-C__-------------- — -- — --C -- — —~ —- —-1; —— = —--j,-:;_ -;;;=; -----------— ~ =; — —-- _~i- —- —Z--:-?"--;"--- ~ —_=I; —— =s-~~;~_E —fSs — — — —-== — -==_= — — =L=;-i_== — 1:r; z W:L,-_=----_=;~;=; —------— =I=-= ------------- -- ~r Squam Lake I I b —-~ —---------------- --— .-I —- — - —_ . _ I 28 DESC(RIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. as most of the travellers, now pass more house, an athenaeum, and an almshouse. swiftly along the banks of the stream The population is about ten thousand. over the railroads. Several important The Boston and Portland railroad passes routes cross Connecticut river at differ- throuo-h the town. ent points; but the principal one is the Th/e Ath/enceum, incorporated in 1817 railroad route from Boston to. Albany, has about five thousand volumes in its through Springfield. i library, a cabinet of minerals, and colNATURAL CRIOSrTIlEs.-The Notch; lections in other branches of natural Flume. and several objects in the heart history. cf the White mountains, may be termed CoNcoRD.-This town, the capital of (uriosities, and a remarkable rock in New Hampshire, is located upon the Franconia is noted as such. The pro- Merrimack river, with the principal vilfile. when viewed from a particular lage upon the western side. It is fortypoint, presents a considerable resem- five miles, ^west-northwest, from Portsblance to the human profile, whence it mouth, and seventy-four miles, northhas received the name of The Old 2Ian7 north-west, from Boston by railroad, and of the llountains. The peak rises about sixty-two by turnpike. It has communione tho lsand feet above the valley at its cation, also, with Boston by the AMerribase. mac river and the Middlesex canal, and HiSTORY.- The first settlements were engrosses the chief trade from the north. made as stated on page 42, at Dover and Main street, its principal thoroughfare, Portsmouth, in 1623; and the people on which are located most of the public voluntarily united themselves to Massa- buildings, and the stores and principal chbisetts in 1641. But in 1679 the coun- places of business, is about two miles try was constituted a separate colony in length. A fine intervale lies between by Charles II. For many years the the village and the river. Here are the frontier villages suffered severely from statehouse, state prison, lunatic asylum, the hostile incursions of the Indians, also a state institution, county courtusually led or sent against them by the house, several banks, twelve churches, French Jesuits in Canada. Many dwel- and several other public buildings. Conliugs were bulrned in the wars of Philip cord has about eight hundred and fifty and France, many lives were lost, and dwelling-houses, and a population of' many captives taken to Canada. about nine thousand. The people of New Hampshire bore The Statehouse, a beautiful structure, an active part in the war of the revolu- appropriately built of granite, is one tion. On the 21st of June, 1788, the hundred and twenty-six feet in length, convention of the state adopted the con- and forty-nine in breadth. It occupies stitution of the United States by a vote a conspicuous situation, surrounded by of fifty-seven to forty-six. a fine park. The view from the cupola PORTSMOUTH, the principal seaport in is very extensive and picturesque. The Ncw3 Hampshire, is the capital of Rock- halls of the house of representatives and ingham county. It enjoys a pleasant the senate contain several works of art; situation at the mouth of Piscataqua, among which are a portrait of Count three miles from the ocean. The har- Rumford, the founder of the towrI, after bor, although perfectly shut in by land, whom it was originally named, and a is never obstructed by ice. It is fifty- full-length likeness of Washington (after four miles from Boston, and four hun- Stiart) by Walter Ingalls, a native-artist dred and ninety-three from Washington. of the granite state,wlhose lifelike portraits It is connected with the town of Kittery, have, both in his own country and abroad, in Maine, by two bridges, and a third given him a high rank in his profession. extends to Great island, where is a A few years since, but a single raillighthouse. The navy-yard is on Con- road extended to Concord; but several tinental island, on the eastern side of roads now radiate from this busy town, the harbor. There are eight churches, and the enterprise of the people, being seven banks, two markets, a custom- i once awakened to their true interests, - _________________________________ _ ~ ~ - __ _ ____ ——. -~ —-~ —_= —------ ---- --- - ---- - -- ~ ~pIouoD WJ'aEioH oleS 01UL I 30 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. will not rest till the iron bands, which tural regions. The land varies from are drawing the extremes of our wide- valleys and level meadows, to swelling spread country nearer and nearer, shall and often elevated uplands; but the soil extend to every section of the state, is generally well cultivated, situations and even to the commercial metropolis healthful and agreeable, and the state of Canada. of society, in different degrees, refined MANCHESTER.-This city is one of the and intelligent. Considerable diversity youngest but most flourishing manu- is observable, in different parts of New facturing places in the state. It was Hampshire, in the character of the popcommenced with activity, by a large ulation. Portsmouth was, for a time, a Boston company, about ten years ago, seat of no little aristocratic pride, during at one of the best sites for water-power the period of its existence as a royal on the Merrimac, and has rapidly in- colony; and some remains of the feelcreasedinbusiness. Pop. 20,000. The ings of those days may still be found. soil is sandy, and the situation favorable Large bands of emigrants, of the agrionly for the objects for which the town cultural classes, who came out from has been built; but the prospects are Great Britain and occupied large tracts flattering for permanent and increasing in the interior, were for a long time prosperity. The good regulations es- found slow in conforming to the habits tablished in most of the other large and institutions which have always charmanufacturing places in New England, acterized those of puritan origin, who have been, fiom the first, adopted here, constitute the third division of the popand the results are highly favorable. ulation. Precautions are taken to secure com- CHARLESTOWN.-This is a beautiful fortable, healthy, and respectable lodg- village on the bank of Connecticut river, ings and accommodations for the work and one of the first places occupied, in people, or " operatives," of both sexes. early times, in the interior of the state. Several churches, of different denomina- It was included within " Township No. tions, are erected; schools are abun- 4" (by which name it was long known), dant; and the agents of the manufacto- being One of a range of settlements first ries are men of intelligence and public laid off above the present line of Massaspirit, who favor all measures for moral chusetts. For many years it was much and intellectual improvement. A rail- exposed to Indian depredations, and road, as in most other instances in towns was defended by a small fort, built of of this kind, affords its advantages. logs, in a spot now crossed by the street, Several other towns might be men- in the southern part of the village. Intioned, in this part of the.state, of a significant as was this little place of desimilar character, though none of so fence, it was held by a few men, against recent a date, and such rapid and re- a considerable body of savages, during markable growth. The various and val- a long and persevering attack. uable products of manufacturing skill, WALPOLE.-In full view of Connecconstantly yielded by the thousands of ticut river, this town occupies a fine, industrious hands and busy wheels in commanding situation, on a bold and these places, find their way to Boston, beautiful hill, which rises abruptly from with but few exceptions; the grand the shore, three or four miles south of route of transportation being the Lowell Bellows' Falls. The country in the virailroad, with its extension and branches. cinity presents many striking scenes and It is bly this channel that the capital of beautifnl landscapes; the soil is strong that wealthy city extends its influence and well cultivated, and the village very through this part of the country, and pleasant. Pop. 2,500. brings its profitable returns to the BELLOWS' FALLs.-Although the vilwharves, whence they are transported lage which bears this name is on the to distant ports. western side of the Connecticut, the reThere are many agreeable interior markable descent of the stream from towns in the midst of pleasant agricul- I which it has received its name is within DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE 31 the bounds of New Hampshire. There by at its base. An elevated bridge, is no other spot along its course which which crosses it just below the falls, bears so striking marks of the violent and affords a near and almost terrific operations of nature. An immense mass view of the tumultuous scene, gives the of the hardest and most solid kind of place a double interest in the eye of the gray granite has been burst through, traveller. The effect of the whole is and the masses have apparently been greatly heightened, by the contrast it torn away in some long passage, while forms with the rich and tranquil region the smoothed surfaces of those which which opens to the view above. One remain indicate the slow but consider- of the largest and most fertile tracts of able effects of rushing streams, uninter- alluvion there spreads out on the river's mitted for ages. A little above the spot, borders, through which its waters meanthe water flows in a smooth and gentle der in long and graceful curves; and current, and spreads out to a consider- well-tilled and productive fields, covered able breadth; while broad meadows on with the deepest verdure, extend to the both sides line its course, and show borders of the rising grounds, which marks of successive elevations which it swell to the wooded uplands. formerly maintained at different periods. HANOvER.-This is a remarkably But just at the falls, the whole stream pleasant village, occupying a high level is confined between two rocks only a few on the top of a considerable ridge of feet apart; while only a portion of the land, in the midst of a wild and sterile intermediate space is filled bythe water, tract, which has but few inhabitants. as large masses of granite lie between It presents a pleasing aspect; for beand divide the current into several sides having several streets with a numparts. The rapidity and force of the ber of neat houses, with court-yards and descent are extremely great, so that ex- gardens, there is a large, level public travagant reports have been made on square in the centre, well shaded with the subject, especially by a singular trees, and ornamented with some of the writer of past days, Hugh Peters, who finest buildings in the place, especially gravely published that the water was those connected with the principal litso much hardened by compression, that erary institution of the state, viz.:a crowbar could not be forced into it! Dartmouth College. —This was originSalmon, however, used to pass the ally a school, founded by the Rev. Mr. spot in great numbers, so long as they Wheelock, for the education of Indian abounded in the river, and this, like youth for the ministry of the gospel. many other waterfalls, was the site of a With a zeal and perseverance fitting great Indian fishing-place. The deep the enlightened and noble object, that depools in the.bed of the stream were voted man surmounted obstacles which crowded with them at that season in the it would be difficult to appreciate, to any spring, when they annually moved up one not intimately acquainted with the toward the shallow water to deposite state of the country at the time. Like their spawn; and large encampments of almost every other attempt made for the savages were at that time made upon the extensive and permanent benefit of that banks. Marks still remain, especially unfortunate race, it ultimately failed of irknseveral figures engraved on a smooth, success, so far as it related to them. In projecting piece of granite, a little be- the course of years, however, it proved low the cascade. useful in an eminent degree; and DartA short canal was commenced, many mouth college has long maintained a years ago, to facilitate boat-navigation highly respectable rank among its kinaround the falls. The scenery at the dred institutions. Among its alumni spot is remarkably wild; a mountain have been found many distinguished rising abruptly from the eastern bank men; and its standing and usefulness of the river, covered with rocky and are likely to rise with the advance of forest trees, and casting a deep shadow population. upon the roaring stream which rushes I The principal academical buildings {.I 2 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. stand on the eastern site of the square, course is southwest. The next twenty i wlile that of the medical department is miles, where it runs more southwest, a little further north. The houses of it descends three hundred and fifty the president and professors are neat feet more. Below this point are two I and handsome structures, and add much considerable falls, the first of which is to the appearance of the village. at the mouth of White river, and the Dartmouth college is supported by other is Bellows Falls, which has been funds contributed by individuals at dif- | described. ferent periods, and lands granted by this The Passumpsic, a considerable branch state and Vermont. The library of the of the Connecticut, enters it at the foot institution contains about 4,500 volumes, of Fifteen-mile falls. Nearly two hunand those belonging to societies of stu- dred small lakes, or ponds, are formed dents about 9,000. The corporation in different parts of the valley of the consists of the governor and chief jus- Connecticut, two of the largest of which tice of the state, the president, ten mem- are in New Hampshire, viz., Mascony lers elected for the purpose, the coun- and Sunapee. The former is seven cillors of the state, the president of the miles long, and the latter twelve. From senate, and the speaker of the house of the superior elevations in this state, it representatives. is not surprising that five of the princiMloore's charity school, a well-en- pal rivers of New England should have ( ltowed institution, is connected with the their sources within its limits. college. The White mountains-those "Alps The following are the names and of New England," as they have been, dates of the presidents of Dartmouth not inappropriately, called-present nucollege: Rev. E. Wheelock, D. D., 1769 merous attractions to every visiter of to 1779; Jno. Wheelock, LL. D., 1779 taste and science, and are the annual to 1815; Rev. Francis Brown, D. D., resort of numerous travellers. Winni1515 to 1820; Rev. Daniel Dana, D.D., piseogee lake, as we have before re1820 to 1821; Rev. Bennet Tyler, D. D., marked, lies on the route from the south, 1822 to 1S28; Rev. Nathan Lord 1828. and at its outlet is situated one of the The annual expense of tuition is most flourishing villages in the state. twenty-seven dollars; rent, seven and MEREDITH. —This place has the ada half dollars; board, from one dollar to vantage of the water-power of WVinnione dollar and a half per week. piseogee river, and lies on the route of The course of lectures in the medical the railroad line firom Concord northcollege continues fourteen weeks. Four ward, which is gradually extended as or five lectures are delivered daily. The the stock is taken up, and is designed fees are about fifty dollars. to extend to Canaida. The town has HAVERiIILL is a town extending along some twenty stores, aiAd its population the Connecticut, opposite the Great Ox- is about 5,000. bow, one of the largest and most fertile Red MiIourntain.-This is a conspicutracts of meadow-land on this part of its ous eminence, occupying a favorable course. The size of this stream is much position as a point of view, at the northsmaller here than in the lower part of west corner of Lake Winnipiseogee, the state; yet its source is still quite which is a favorite resort of travellers, distant; and there are a few points con- being easy of access, and commanding nected with it which may be adverted I a scene of the greatest variety and to in this place. beauty. The following description was Connecticut river in this state makes written on the spot: — a considerable part of its descent fiom " North, the eastern end of Squamr its headwaters to the ocean level. Lake 1 lake, and part of a pond lying near it, Connecticut is one thousand six hundred with the range of the Sandwich mounfeet higher than Long Island sound; tains behind, stretching off toward the but six hundred of this is reduced in east, with numerous dark-brown peaks, the first twenty-five miles, in which the partly cultivated about their bases, and DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 33 enveloped abbve with forests, excepting and farmhouses, to the very margin of their summits, which are generally di- the lake. There numerous points run vested of verdure. Far beyond these out far into the water, to complete the appear several loftier peaks, which labyrinths formed by the islands. Gunmight be mistaken for the White moun- stock mountain rises one point east of tains, were they visible from this point. south, just on the left of which opens the An intermediate peak with rocky preci- entrance of Merry-meeting bay. The pices is White-faced mountain. elevated island on the right of that is lJ "East-northeast, the eye ranges up Rattlesnake island, iamedfiom the venthile spacious valley through which lies omous reptiles with which it abounds; the way to the White mountains, and over this the distant land appears high. the road which is to conduct the travel- South by west rises a high hill resemler seems diminished to the dimensions bling the Ossipee in the richness of its of a garden walk. Chocaway, or, as it slopes. l'is familiarly called, Coroway peak, rises "The southwest and west is agreeon the left; while the noble ridge of ably varied with wood-lots and cleared the Ossipee mountains begins nearer at fields, scattered over an undulated surhand on the right, and almost overshad- face, which extends for many miles, in ows the observer with its enormous size. some places quite to the horizon, and The sides of these mountains show a in others to the broken boundary of tall beautiful display of farms, interspersed but distant mountains. In the southwith wood-lots and dwellings, which in west appear two or three peaks, so far many places have encroached far toward removed that they are almost lost in the the summits, and in others pursue the blue of the sky. Nearly west are seen slope of the fertile uplands to the valley several ridges of inferior magnitude, at their feet. Numerous elevations ap- which, approaching as the eye slowly pear at a greater distance, and range moves toward the left, at length come themselves in lines to complete the per- near the lake, and disappear behind the spective of a most magnificent vista, neighboring mountains. which finally closes at a ridge, whose "Long pond may be distinguished by shade is reduced by its remoteness to its shining surface between the west the color of a cloud. A prominent and and south, with several other little sheets remarkable mountain, which appears of water, which lie in tranquillity under scarcely less distant, is called Pickwaket the shelter of the hills. mountain, and rises by the Saco river, " Winnipiseogee lake is nineteen miles near the place where Captain Lovel -in length, from Centre Harbor to Alton, fought his well-known battle with the at the southeastern extremity. MerryIndians; and the fine valley between is meeting bay lies beyond. Several of the country passed over in that fatal ex- the islands are large, and contain good pedition, in both the approach and the farms and wealthy inhabitants, although retreat. only two or three belong to any town, " East, the view abuts upon the Ossi- or pay any taxes. Some of their names pee mountains, and no variety is afforded are Rattlesnake, Cow, Bear, and Moon until we turn to the south-southeast. In islands; also, Half-Mile, One-Mile, Twothat direction, and further to the right, Mile islands, &c., &c. None of them the whole surface of Winnipiseogee lake contain churches; and although they lies charmingly spread out to view, va- have few school-houses, yet sufficient atried by numerous points and headlands, tention is paid to the rudiments of eduand interspersed with beautiful islands cation to render the children intelligent. which man despairs to number. Sev- Winnipiseogee lake, according to sureral distant elevations appear, on this veys made by Mr. Baldwin in 1825, is side of which the sloping land just men- five hundred and one feet above the tioned extends for several miles along ocean. the shore, with a well-cultivated surface "Squam lake lies west from Red spotted in all directions with large barns mountain, and, like Winnipiseogee lake, 3 34 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. abounds not only in islands, but in fish ests that had covered them for ages. of the finest descriptions." Some of these " slides," as they are here CENTRE HARBOR.-This is a village popularly denominated (known among situated at the northwest extremity of the Alps as " avalanches de terre"), are the lake, in the midst of interesting supposed to have been half a mile in scenery. The inhabitants are engaged breadth, and from one to five miles in in fishing as well as agriculture, and the length. Scarcely any natural occurplace is a favorite stopping-place ror rence can be imagined more sublime; travellers. At a short distance rises and among the devastation which it has Red mountain, just spoken of. left to testify the power of the elements, CONWAY, six miles.-The view of the the traveller will be filled with awe at White mountains is very fine from this the thought of that Being by whom they place, presenting a succession of lofty are controlled and directed. ridges, the most distant of which are the The streams brought away with them peaks of Mounts Washington, Adams, immense quantities of earth and sand, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and Quin- which the turbid water deposited, when cy. The most prominent elevation on any obstacle threw it back, in tempothe right, with two summits, is Kear- rary ponds and lakes. The forest-trees sarge, or Pickwaket; a level meadow were also floated down, frequently, sevlies in the foreground, with an isolated eral miles from the places where they woody hill in the middle, and the Saco were rooted up. The timber was often river, which rises on Mount Washing- marked with deep grooves and trenches, ton, and flows down a narrow valley, made by the rocks which passed over with many meanderings. them, during their descent from the The Chalybeate Spring, in Conway, mountains; and great heaps of trees is in a valley, with mountains on every were deposited in some places, while in side except' the southeast. From near others the soil of the little meadows was the church, the White mountains are in buried with earth, sand, or rocks, to the sight. Two or three miles above, the depth of several feet. Saco valley bends to the left, and Ellis's The turnpike-road leading through river comes down a narrow vale in front. this romantic country was twenty miles A tremendous catastrophe occurred in length, but was almost ebtirely deamong the White mountains on the stroyed. Twenty-one of the twentynight of August 28, 1826. A storm of three bridges upon it were demolished; rain, unprecedented within the memory one of them, built with stone, cost one of the oldest inhabitants, deluged the thousand dollars. In some places, the principal peaks of the mountains, and Saco river ran alone the road, and cut poured such an inundation upon the val- down deep channels. leys and plains below, that it is com- The Willey house was the scene of a monly attributed to the "bursting of a most melancholy tragedy on the night cloud;" although that expression is a above mentioned, when this inundation very ill-defined one. The effects pro- occurred. Several days previously, a duced by the flood will remain for cen- large "slide" came down from the turies. mountains behind it, and passed so near The inundation was so great and so as to cause great alarm, without any insudden, that the channels of the stream jury to the inmates. The house was were totally insufficient to admit of occupied by Mr. Calvin Willey, whose the passage of the water, which, conse- wife was a young woman of a very inquently, overflowed the little level val- teresting character, and of an education leys at the feet of the mountains. In- not to be looked for in so wild a region. numerable torrents immediately formed They had a number of young children, on all sides; and such deep trenches and their family, at the time, included were cut by the rushing water, that vast several other persons, amounting in all bodies of earth and stones fell from the to eleven. They were waked in the mountains, bearing with them the for- night by the noise of the storm, or more ~~~ c:~ _.~=,,....... BE~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Ii Centre Harbor, and Lake Winnipiseogee. 36 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEWV HAMPSHIRE. probably by the second descent of ava- distinguishes these from the other elelanchesfrom the neighboring mountains, vations. and fled in their night-clothes from the The climate in this narrow valley is house to seek their safety, but thus threw still so warm as to favor the growth of themselves in the way of destruction. various trees, which are scarcely to be One of the slides, a hundred feet high, found a few miles further north. The stopped within three feet of the house. forests are here formed of spruce, ash, Another took away the barn, and over- beech, maple;, and sugar-maple; and Inwhelmed the family; iothing was found dian corn grows well, which will not of them for some time; their clothes come to maturity beyond. The orchard were found lying at their bedsides. The contains hundreds of apple-trees. This house had been started on its foundation is one of the principal stopping-places by an immense heap of earth and tim- for the sleighs, which pass the mounber, which had slid down and stopped tains in great numbers, during the winas soon as it touched it; and they had ter, for Portland, Boston, &c., all been crushed on leaving the door, or Nancy's Hill is a small elevation a borne away with the water that over- few miles north of this place. In 1773 flowed the meadow. The bodies of sev- a young woman of respectable connexeral of them were never found. The I ions, who accompanied a family of setlast remains discovered were those of a tlers to Dartmouth (now Jefferson), set child found in 1846. A catastrophe so out in the winter to return to Portsmelancholy, and at the same time so mouth, alone and on foot, her lover haysingular in its circumstances, has hardly ing promised to meet her there and ever occurred. It will always furnish marry her. There was then no house the traveller with a melancholy subject nearer than Bartlett, thirty miles. Nancy of reflection. was found by some travellers in this BARTLETT is a village situated in a spot, frozen and covered with ice, unrich valley, or intervale, of about three der a shelter- formed of branches of hundred acres, where the view is bound- trees, which was the only shelter to be ed on every side by near and lofty moun- found on the way. tains. There is another intervale among There is a place near the Notch, the mountains westward, which, although where the road suffered severe injury. it contains as much good cleared land, It had been built up against the side of has been converted into a common, in a mountain, on a wall forty or fifty feet consequence of the difficulty of in eking high, and about thirty yards in extent, a good road to it. Pursuing still the at the expense of five hundred dollars. course of the narrow valley, against the This whole fabric was swept away by a current of the Saco, the country is found mass of earth, rocks, and trees, which uncleared, except two or three pretty came from a half a mile up the side of little meadows, and destitute of inhab- the mountain, rushing down at an angle itants, excepting only three or four poor of forty-five degrees, and precipitated families, until arriving at Crawford's itself into the bed of the Saco, which is farm, seven and a half miles south of nearly three hundred feet below. the Notch. The water rose in this The road rises with a steep ascent house two feet in the flood of 1826. for a considerable distance before it This is the place from which visitersreaches the Notch, and the traveller obformorly began their excursions to the serves two cataracts, one pouring down mountains. a precipitous mountain at a distance on Prospect Mountain, one of the princi- the west side of the valley, and the pal peaks, presents itself to view a other, which is called the Flurne, rushlittle before arriving at the first Craw- ing down on the right hand, and crossford's, with its smooth rounded sum- ing the road under a bridge. The mit of brown moss, rising several hun- scenery is sublime and impressive bedred feet above the region of vegeta- yond description. There is also anothei tion, and offering an aspect which I flume Just beyond. L___ TheNoth ous WiteMontans The Notch House, White Mountains. ~~n\\~ ~ ~ f ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ h oc os.WieMutis 38 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. The Notch is so narrow as to allow and to look down in derision from a only room enough for the path, and the new and more hopeless height. The Saco, which is here a mere brook, only first part of the way is through a thick four feet in bre'adth. It is remarkable forest of heavy timber, which is sudthat the Saco and the Ammonoosuc denly succeeded by a girdle of dwarf spring from fountains on Mount Wash- and gnarled fir-trees, ten or fifteen feet ington, within perhaps sixty yards of high, and eighty rods, or about four each other, though the former empties hundred and fifty yards, broad; which, into the Atlantic, and the latter joins ending as suddenly as they began, give Connecticut river. Another branch of place to a kind of short bushes, and the Ammonoosuc approaches the Saco, finally a thin bed of moss, not half sufin one place, within about six hundred ficient to conceal the immense granite yards. They are both crossed beyond rocks which deform the suiface. For the Notch. The head-waters of the more &han a mile, the surface is entirely Merrimac rise within about a mile and destitute of trees. A few straggling a half of this place, and run down a spiders, and several species of little long ravine, little less remarkable than flowering plants, are the only objects that of the Saco. that attract the attention under the feet. A road was first made through the The following heights are stated to Notch in 1785. It was fifty or sixty be those of the different peaks, above feet higher than the present turnpike, the level of the Connecticut river at and so steep that it was necessary to Lancaster: Washington, 5,350 feet; draw horses and wagons up with ropes. Jefferson, 5,261; Adams, 5,183; MadThe assessment for the turnpike was ison, 5,039; Monroe, 4,932; Quincy, made in 1806. 4,470. Mount Washington is believed Two rocks stand at the sides of this to be more than 6,400 feet above the remarkable passage, one twenty, and ocean. the other about thirty feet, in perpen- In a clear atmosphere (says the dicular height. They are about twenty " Northern Traveller"), the view is subfeet asunder, at six or seven yards from lime, and almost boundless. The finest the north end, where they open to thirty part of it is toward the southeast and feet. The part which appears to have south. Looking down thevalley,through been cut through is about one hundred which the road has conducted us, a fine and twenty feet long. A little meadow succession of mountainous summits apopens beyond, where is an inn. pears for many miles, extending below Mount Washington.-The ascent of the bright surface of Winnipiseogee the mountain was formerly a most ar- lake. duous undertaking, and was very rarely Toward the southeast, also, the eye performed; but many ladies are now ranges over an extent of surface which enumerated among those who have quite bewilders the mind. Mountains, gained the summit. The whole way hills, and valleys, farmhouses, villages, lies through a perfect forest. The first and towns, add their variety to the natfour miles are over a surface compara- ural features of the country; and the tively level; but the last two miles and ocean may be discovered at the horizon i a quarter are up an ascent not differing with the help of a telescope, although 1 much from an angle of forty-five degrees. the sharpest sight, perhaps, has never The streams of the Ammonoosuc river, been able to distinguish it without such which are to be crossed several times, assistance. In that direction lies Portshow the ravages of the inundation of land, the capital of Maine, and nearer 1826. is Lovel's pond. The ascent of Mount Washington is On the northeast is seen the valley of laborious, and the most arduous exer- the Androscoggin river, which abounds tion will be necessary to attain the in wild and romantic scenery, and was summit, which seems to fly before the the usual passage by which the Indians, stranger when he deems it just attained, I in their hostile incursions fiom Canada, l! __. Xr DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 39 used to approach the eastern frontier dicate that the summit of the mountain settlements of Massachusetts and New has fallen down and disappeared. Hampshire. Beyond are the Ktardin The general opinion seems to be that hills, near the extremity of Maine. the lofty peak above us is the highest North, the country is more wild and elevation in North America, except Mexuncultivated; and Umbagog lake is seen, ico, and some of the Rocky mountains. firom which flows the Androscoggin. The inhospitable nature of the climate West, the nearer view is over a moun- is such as to forbid all hopes of future tainous region, covered with a thick for- improvement; so that the feeling of subest, through which an occasional opening limity, produced by the lonely and desis perceived, formed by the farms (or olate character of this desert region, is clearings) of the hardy inhabitants. Be- increased by the reflection that it is desyond, the hills are seen to rise from the tined to be a wilderness for ever. opposite shore of Connecticut river, the The only places susceptible of cultisurface of which is everywhere' hid- vation in the heart of the mountains are den fiom view, and the summits, rising the little meadows inhabited by single higher and higher, terminate in the families, and that at the Notch house; ridges of the Green mountains in Ver- and there the interval of warm weather mont. is so short in the year that few vegetaSouthwesterly is seen the Grand AIo- bles can arrive at maturity, with all the nadnock. rapidity of growth which distinguishes The Indians knew the WVhite moan- such cold regions. Indeed, the shorttains by the name of Agiocochook, and ness and uncertainty of crops, with the regarded them as inaccessible, or at expense of keeping stock, &c., would least represented them as such to white scarcely allow the farmer a support, men. without the advantages afforded by the The Lake of the Clozds is a little thoroughfare, which is particularly great pond, near the summit of Mount Mon- during the winter season. Population, roe, of beautiful clear water; it supplies therefore, may extend to the borders of the head stream of the Ammonoosuc these regions, and increase, as it does, river. This little current immediately on every side; but it can not pass the begins its descent, and dashes in a head- limit, because it can not contend with long course of several thousand feet, in- their coldness and sterility. to the valley near the encampment. Various kinds of wild birds and game Loose fiagments of granite are every- are to be found in the woods, besides where scattered over the mountain, with bears, wild-cats, and deer. The moose some specimens of gneiss. The granite and the buffalo were formerly abundant is generally gray, and at first fine-grained, among the mountains; and it is scarcely but grows coarser as we ascend,-and is forty years since they were killed in occasionally sprinkled with small gar- great numbers, merely for their hides nets. At the summit it frequently con- and tallow, as the latter still are in the tains a little black tourmaline, sometimes regions beyond the Mississippi. Deer in crossing crystals. On the summit, are common in the woods, and frequently also, some of the granite is tinged with are killed by the hunters. Black bears red, although much of it is colored are occasionally seen in the more unfrebriglit-green by lichens, dampened by quented places, but they will always the humidity of the clouds, and inter- endeavor to avoid a man. A la ge spespersed with thick and soft gray moss. cies of reindeer, known here by the The grain of the coarse granite is elon- name of the Cariboo, has made its apgated; and what strikes the visiter as pearance in the hWhite mountains. very singular, is that not a single rock The weather is liable to frequent is to be found in its original place- changes in the mountainous region, everything bears the mark of removal; which is partly owing to the vicinity of and this, taken into view with the preci- the Notch, through which the wind pice on the northern side, seems to in- blows almost without ceasing, even when 40 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE the air is perfectly still at only a short The Shakers first took up their resi distance from it. From the situation dence in Canterbury in 1782, and formed i of the mountains, it is impossible that a society in 1792, under the direction the direction of the wind should vary of "Elder" Job Bishop, who died in materially in the valley, and it is there- 1831, aged seventy-one, and was sucfore, of course, always north or south. ceeded by Benjamin Whittier. Their During the winter it is often very vio- religious exercises consist, chiefly, of a lent; so that not only the snow is pre- peculiar dance, in which both sexes vented from lying oni the path at the move, in a regular but awkward man- I Notch, but the surface is swept of every- ner, about a large hall, sometimes whirlthing that a strong wind can remove. ing round, and uttering inarticulate The summits of the mountains are sounds. Some of them pretend to speak frequently invested with mist when the in " unknown tongues," to which no insky is clear, and those only who inhabit terpreter has ever yet been found. We the vicinity are able to tell whether the add the following particulars, relating to day is to be favorable for the ascent. this settlement, from a published deThe mists sometimes collect in the val- scription:leys, and then present some of the most This village is located in the northsingular and beautiful appearances. easterly part of the county of Merrimack, The Shaker Village at Canterbury. — on the main road firom Concord to Con The accompanying engraving affords a way, twelve miles from Concord, on an view of this settlement of a small and eminence; at the foot of which, as you very peculiar sect-the Shakers, or Sha- approach the village, is a spacious granking Quakers, as they are sometimes ite watering-trough, from the bottom of called. Like their other villages, or which boils a bountiful and never-failing "families," as they call their settle- spring, furnished by the society for the ments, it consists of a few dwelling- accommodation of travellers. houses and offices, or shops, in which As you approach the village, the first their wares are manufactured, and their object is the meetinghouse on the right, seeds and herbs prepared, stored, and the only white building in the village, sold. Separate habitations, of large which stands a few rods from the road, size, are appropriated to the different at the head of a large open lawn. sexes, as their doctrines condemn mat- On the left stands the trustees' office, rimony, separate man and wife, and a new, spacious, and elegant building break up the real family state from its of hewn granite and pressed brick, sevfoundation. Their moral and theologi- enty-two by forty feet in size. In this cal opinions it would be difficult to ascer- the trustees reside, and transact all the tain, as they keep much aloof and pub- regular business of the family. To this lish but little, while few avow much that office customers, strangers, and visiters, is consistent with one another, or even are to apply, who wish to buy or sell, or with themselves. The writer speaks for the transaction of any business with from personal knowledge, having held the society whatever. a conference with the leading men of a All sales and purchases are made by I Shaker village in this part of the coun- the trustees, who are the general agents try, and tried in vain to learn their of the society for transacting all their whole creed. They only intimated a secular matters, and in whom the fee of rejection of some of the doctrines held all the real estate in trust is held. as fundamental by most American Chris- The total number of dwellinghouses tian denominations. in the society is ten, mostly of wood, Ann Lee, an Englishwoman, the found- painted yellow. There are also many er of their sect, they regard as a divine other large and convenient wooden and person, but differ in their representations b tick buildings, occupied as workshops; of her. She formed the first Shakerset- also storehouses and granaries, woodtlement at Niskayuna, near Albany, N.Y. houses, barns, &c., which are spacious She came from England in 1774. and convenient. I;~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ —.-. —--. 4 __ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ —-r The Shaker Settlement, at Canterbury — 42 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. i The whole number of buildings in and spirit of the gospel. So tenacious the village is about one hundred, many are they of this fact, that they not only of which are very valuable, composed refuse to bear arms, but decline even to of the best materials, and built in a receive pensions for their former milifaithful and durable manner. Among tary services, to which some of them are these are a convenient schoolhouse, one legally entitled. spacious gristmill, two sawmills, three Their school will compare well with carding-machines, one fullingmill, one any in the country. The English lantriphammer, five mills for sawing fire- guage is taught, and partly on the LanwoOd, three turningmills, and two tan- casterian system. They are carefill to neries, besides various other machinery. furnish the school with good books, staThese buildings are all.laid out and tionery, &c., so that their scholars, who constructed in a regular, plain, and ele- are disposed, may acquire a good edugant manner, which gives the village a cation. very fine appearance. They entirely discard the use of arThe society own and occupy upward dent spirits, except occasionally in medof 2,500 acres of land, which, though ical preparations, but drink some cider. stony, is a good deep soil, about 2,000 They are temperate and regular in of which lie in one body, enclosed with all theil habits; their food is plain and good stone wall and cross-fenced with wholesome, avoiding all luxuries. The.y the same materials. Grass, corn, grain, allow eight hours in twenty-four for and potatoes, are raised in abundance. sleeping. They are industrious, frugal, and tem- The society, from its commeinlcement, perate. They manufacture many use- has gradually increased in number, as ful articles for sale, which are very neat well as in good order. At present it and durable; such as leather, whips, consists of about two hundred and forty sieves, tubs, pails, churns, measures, members. rakes, brooms, trusses, snaths, &c., &c. HISTORY.-In 1621 the English PlymTheir gardens are large, and perhaps outh company granted to John Mason, the most productive of any in the coun- one of its members, the country between try. They raise and vend a gceneral Naumkeag, or Salem, and the Merriassortment of garden-seeds, and spare mack; and soon after, in the same year, no pains to furnish those of the best to Mason and Gorges all the lands bekind. They also collect and prepare a tween the Merrimack and the Sagadavariety of botanical herbs, barks, roots, hock, extending back to the rivers of and extracts, which are prepared in the Canada. The latter tract was called most faithful manner; the herbs and Laconia. Two years'later, two parties roots are neatly pressed in packages of of settlers were sent out by "the Laa pound, and papered and labelled. All conia company," who began settlements the medicines prepared by them being at Portsmouth and Dover. In 1629, pure, and gathered in proper season, Mason took out a new patent for the I insure them a very ready sale. territory between the Merrimack and I They usually keep about twenty the Piscataqua, under the name of Nev horses, eighty cows, fifteen yoke of oxen, | Hampshire. In 1635, the Plymouth five to six hundred sheep, and other company divi(ed New Enllland among stock in proportion, and cut sufficient hay their members, before they gave up on their premises for their own' con- their charter to the king, and the terrisumption. They also annually slaugh- tory between Naumkeag and Piscatter forty or fifty swine. aqua rivers fell to Mason. They freely pay their proportion of The first church formed within the taxes, and share all the burdens of gov- present limits of the state dates in 1641. ernment, except the bearing of arms, Coos county, including the northern which they deem incompatible with parts of the valley of the Connecticut, genuine Christianity, being, as they be- was occupied by a few scattered faimlieve, directly contrary to the precepts Iilies before 1775; but at the commence- I __i.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~.J~~~~~~~~~~~~:.i DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 43 ment of the revolutionary war, the fear parts of New England. Each township I of invasion from Canada drove them all is divided into school-districts, which are back, and only the return of peace could empowered to build schoolhouses. An induce a second and permanent occupa- annual tax is assessed on the town by tion of that region, then a perfect wilder- the selectmen, and with the avails of it ness, difficult of access. is distributed the income of the literary RAILROADS.-The people of this state funds, which is raised by a tax on the hlave entered with commendable zeal capital of banks. upon several railroad enterprises, which Academies, or high-schools, are scatpromise to be of permanent advantage tered all over the state. The oldest are to the state. those founded at Exeter in 1781, at ChesT'he Northern Railroad, firom Concord terfield in 1790, at Atkinson in 1791, and to Lebanon, a distance of fifty miles, has at Gilmanton and Haverhill in 1794. been completed the entire distance, and Phillips Academy has its name fiom forms, in conj unction with the Vermont its liberal founder, John Phillips, LL. D., Central railroad, a continuouslineto Bur- and has an income of $70,000, with a lington, by way ofMontpelier, the capital library of six hundred volumes. The of Vermont, 210 miles firom Boston. number of pupils is limited to sixty. The Boston, Concord, and Montreal The Congregational Theological SemRailroad, already incidentally alluded inary at Gilmanton, and the Baptist Acto on page 32, is, as its name implies, ademical and Theological Institution at intended ultimately to connect the com- New Hampton, are worthy of particular mercial capitals of Canada and New notice. The latter has had above three England. It has been opened as far as hundred pupils at one time. Warren, and is being rapidly pressed to LEARNED SOCIETIES. —The N. Hampcompletion. This road furntishes an easy shire Medical Society was incorporated and rapid conveyanceto theWhitemount- in 1791, and holds an annual meeting ains; while the whole line of the route in Concord on the Tuesday preceding firom Meredith village lies through a re- the state election. gion so replete with that splendid lake The New Hampshire Ilistorical Soand hill scenery which has given such a ciety was incorporated in 1823, and has world-wide celebrity to New Hampshire, published several volumes of collections. as to render it, for that alone, a desirable The annual meeting is on June 17th. roate for the admirer of the beauties of GOVERNMENT.-The legislative power nature. is vested, by the constitution, in a senate Portsmouth and Concord Railroad.- and house of representatives, which, toThis is another and most important rail- gether, are styled the Getneral Court of road enterprise. Concord, as indicated New Hampshire. Every town or iMlcorby its being the point at which so many porated township having one hundred railroads meet, is destined to become the and fifty ratable polls may send one repgreat inland freight-d6pgt of New Eng- resentative; and every three hundred land. This renders it important that the additional polls, one. The senate, concomnmercial capital ofthestateshould pos- sisting of twelve-members, is elected by sesst. ioe facilitiesof communicalionwith the people in districts. The executive Conco'd which other sections of country power is vested in a governor, and a have, particularly as it shortens the com- council of five members. The governor, munication by railroad with the Atlantic council, senators, and representatives, are about thirty miles. This road, which is elected annually by the people on the now neaily completed, will make Ports- second Tuesday of March. The genmouth the second port ili New England. eral court meets annually (at Concord) There are several other railroads in on the first Wednesday of June. The process of construction, but our limits right of suffia.ge is granted to every male will not admit afurther reference tothem. inhabitant of age, except paupers, &c. EoucATIoN.-Common schools are The judiciary power is vested in a supeuniversal in New Hampshi'e, as in other rior court and court of common pleas. 44 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT..i~~~~~~~ i I~~~~~~~~~~i View of Burlington. VERMONT,, THiis state is distinguished among the other New England states by several marked peculiarities. In situation, it borders, on one side, a foreign country, and on another the grand route of northern invasion, in consequence of which its soil has been exposed to hostile incursions, in the successive wars with the Indians, the French, and the English. Its climate is so cold and healthful as to give hardihood and vigor to the inhabitants; while it possesses so much rich soil, and such abundant water-power and facilities for navigation, as to encourage all the arts of life. Although circumstances retarded the settlement of the country, and led to unfortunate dissensions and conflicting claims for the possession, yet the happy adjustment of all, with New York on one side and New Hampshire on the other, and the erection of Vermont into an independent state, gave an impulse to improvem Ants of every kind, which has produced most extensive and important results. Extending from forty-two degrees forty-four minutes to forty-five degrees north latitude, and near several lakes, the climate of Vermont would have been rigorous in the winter, even if its surface had not been elevated much above the ocean level; but the Green mountain ridge is of such extent and elevation as to render the cold season very long and quite severe. The longitude is between three degrees thirty-one minutes and five degrees east; the greatest length of the state is one hundred and fifty-seven and a half miles, and the greatest breadth ninety miles. The whole area comprehended within the boundaries is 10,200 square miles. The Green mountain ridge forms a marled and natural dividing line between the counties of Windham, Windsor, and Orange, on the one side, and Bennington,f DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 45 Rutland, and Addison, on the other. In 1Mineral springs of different kinds are iall that part of it there is not a single found in several counties. Some are passage to be found wide enough for a chalybeate, others sulphurous; and some road, nor is its long and uniform eleva- are resorted to by invalids for the imtion so much as interrupted by the bed provement of their health. of any stream. Five turnpike roads, in- LAKE s.-Lake Champlain extends deed, pass it in different places, but they along nearly the whole western boundhave been constructed at considerable ary of the state, and forms an important ost and labor, and are very laborious feature in several respects. It affords to travel, as they rise and descend the invaluable advantages of navigation, for height of the ridge. it is of sufficient uniform depth for In the southern part of Washington vessels of considerable size, and forms county it divides into two ridges, the several good harbors; while the canal principal of which borders the counties which connects it with Hudson river of Chittenden and Franklin on the east, offers a direct, safe, and cheap channel and the other, known by the name of of commerce to the city of New York. " The height of lands," strikes off in a At the same time, fine steamboats of the northeast direction into the county of largest class daily traverse the lake Calfedonia. This keeps a remarkably through its whole extent, on the grand uniform elevation, and forms the dividing route between the United States and line between the waters of the Connec- Canada, touching at the principal towns ticut and the two lakes, Champlain and along the shore. Memphremagog. The western ridge is Lake Memphremagog, lying on the cut through by Onion and Lamoille riv- boundary line of the United States, has ers, although its principal summits are four or five miles of its southern part in the highest in the state. Among these Orleans county, Vermont, but its northis the Camel's Hump; this ridge con- ern and larger portion in Canada. It stitutes the grandeur of the scenery so is about thirty miles long from north to much admired along the northeastern south, and three or four miles wide fiom side of Lake Champlain. east to west. It is about midway beMount Ascutney is one of the emi- tween Lake Champlain and Connecticut nences most celebrated in Vermont, more river. Three small rivers-the Clyde, on account of the beautiful scenery upon Black, and Barton-enter the south part: which it looks down, and its vicinity to of the lake from Vermont. On an island \Vindsor, one of the principal and most two miles above the line are obtained beautiful towns in the state. An excur- the celebrated oilstones, for sharpening sion to its summit affords' many fine tools, which are well known throughout views, as it rises abruptly from the bor- our country, and highly prized, being ders of the valley of the Connecticut, worth half a dollar a pound. Whetand the path, in its gradual ascent, opens stones, for scythes, &c., are obtained in to the eye many varying landscapes. the vicinity of the lake, at the place Not less than twenty-one rivers have where the gneiss-rocks pass into micatheir sources in the Green mountains, slate. of which twelve flow into the Connec- In Lake Champlain are a number of ticut, and nine into the two principal islands, the largest of which are Nortllakes. From the nature of the country, Hero and South Hero, in the northern these streams are necessarily short and part and near the shore of Vermont, to small; though in the season of floods, which they belong. some of them drain off great quantities North Hero forms a township of the of water through their rocky channels. same name, in the county of Grand No country is better supplied with abun- Isle. It is twenty-six miles north of dant and pure springs. The water of Burlington, six west of St. Albans, and Vermont is generally good, except along contains 6,272 acres. The first settlethe shore of Lake Champlain, where ment was made on this island in 1783. the rocks are of limestone. In 1793 the British erected a block 46 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. house on it, which was given up to the and Huntington rivers. Many scenes United States in 1796. The soil is along the course of the Onion and some good, and there is a small village, four of its tributaries are peculiarly wild and school districts, a courthouse, and a jail, romantic. Its highest branch has a fall built of stone. The rocks are of lime- of five hundred feet, almost perpendicstone. ular; and at Bolton is a remarkable South Hero is a small island, of chasm, cut by the stream into the solid 9,055 acres, twelve miles northwest of rocks, sixty feet wide, thirty feet deep, Burlington, and sixteen southwest of and two hundred and seventy yards St. Albans. The first settlement was long, where the descent is so rapid that made here in 1784. In the summer the stream rushes through with great season, when the water in the lake is rapidity. Four miles below Waterbury low, a passage can often be made by is a spot, where a wall of rock rises on fording to Chittenden, on the mainland, one side to the height of one hundred a sandbar extending the whole distance. feet, and large fragments have fallen The surface is level and the soil good, down, and lie in such a manner as to being formed of limestone, like that of form a bridge. Three quarters of a the adjacent shores and islands. Many mile above the falls, an artificial bridge marks remain in them all of the numer- commands a striking view, upon a place ous Indians who formerly resorted to where the channel of the river is sevthem. enty feet wide and sixty-five feet deep. RIVERS.-TWO or three of the rivers A fine turnpike-road now leads through of Vermont, viz., those which cross the the mountains from this stream to White Green mountains, being of considerable river and Royalton. size, are navigable through most of their This was the principal Indian route course in canoes, and communicating, to the Connecticut; and many captives, by a short carrying-place, with the as well as loads of plunder, wtere in fornavigable waters of Lake Champlain, mer times carried by this route, from were as many principal routes of traffic the New England frontier villages, by and of war for the Canadian Indians, war parties returning to Canada. The on their way to the Connecticut river. water-power on this river is very great. WVhen the English first visited the latter It is mostly of little depth, as might be stream, they found the savages on its expected from its shortness and its small banks, as low down as Hartford, had a supply of water. It is, however, usetrade in furs, &c., with those who in- fill in navigation. Lake vessels can enhabited the shores of Lake Champlain ter the river and sail up five miles, and and the St. Lawrence, which was car- boats forty. ried on by the channels just indicated. Two of the earliest and most spirited At later periods, when the Jesuits, who military measures taken in the revoluoccupied Montreal and other places in tionary war were performed by a few Canada, as lords of the manor, incited men from Vermont, at important points and directed the fanaticism of the In- just beyond the bounds of this state. dians against the eastern colonies, these We allude to the surprise of the two same routes were used in the secret, great fortresses on Lake Champlain, and ofteii unexpected and bloody, incur- Ticonderoga and Crown Point. These sions which were so numerous in the positions are very peculiar. The lake French wars. at these two points, about twelve miles Onion iriver is seventy miles long. apart, is very narow and crooked; and Rising in Cabot, Caledonia county, it the two fortresses were so placed as runs south, then southwest, and finally to completely command the passage. northwest, falling into Lake Champlain, The guns, which were numerous and passing through Washington and Chit- heavy, were mounted on strong walls, tenden counties, five miles below Bur- scientifically planned by accomplished lington. The principal branches are British engineers, and constructed with Dog, Steven's, North, Mad, Waterbury, great strength, of the limestone abound DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 47 ing along the shores; while deep ditches, gently sloping toward the south, and in some places cut far down into solid ending abruptly over a bend of the lake, rocks, offered almost insurmountable appears partially covered with trees, obstacles to an approach. Lying on and crowned near its extremity with a the very borders of this state, with some cluster of broken walls and chimneys. of their outworks actually erected upon The old French Lines, where General the Vermont side of the lake, and owing Abercrombie was defeated in 1758, are their capture, as they did, chiefly to the only part of the fortification which Vermont men, a brief description of was ever the scene of a battle. They Ticonderoga and Crown Point may with commenced on the east side, at a battery propriety be here introduced, being ex- of heavy cannon on the shore, about a tremely interesting to all interested in quarter of a mile south of the ferry. the war for independence. The remains of the breastwork can yet 1fount Independence is a hill on the be seen. The lines were drawn in a Vermont side, of ccmparatively small zigzag; first stretching off to the right, elevation east of Mount Defiance, and along the side of marshy ground, to a separated from it by the lake, which has cluster of bushes where was a battery; here redutced its size to that of a small and then to the left to the verge of a river. Ona a bank just above the water wood, where was another. are the remains of a zigzag battery for Their course may be distinctly traced about forty or fifty guns, running across in this manner across the ridge of land a little cornfield behind a house, and at its highest elevation, over to the brow making five or six angles. The Horse- of a steep bank, looking toward the outshoe battery is traceable on an elevation let of Lake George. The woods which about a quarter of a mile in the rear. now so much interrupt the sight have A bridge once connected Ticonderoga grown since the evacuation of the forwith Mount Defiance, the buttresses of tress, after the revolutionary war. which are remaining, to the great an- The fortress is of an angular form, noyanco of the navigators of the lake. and embraces a large tract of ground, On the west shore (near the stone store- being divided into parts by deep ditches. house), Arnold, when pursued by the The walls were originally much higher British, caused his flotilla to be run on than at present, being raised by supershore. These hulks remain almost as structures of logs filled in with earth. sound as when first stranded. A forty- The Barracks formed an oblong, and two pounder is said to have ranged from the walls still remain of all except those the Horse-shoe over this channel (now on the eastern side; their form is plainly marked by a buoy) and the fortress. distinguishable. The parade is fiftyAfter the revolutionary war, about two and a half yards long, and eight in five hundred cannon were lying about breadth. The barracks, &c., the walls the fortress, lines, &c., many of them as of which remain on the north, south, left by the English, with their trunnions and west sides, are built of the rough knocked off. A twenty-four pounder blue limestone of which the neighborwas taken to the forge at Fairhaven, ing rocks are formed, two stories high; some years ago, and discharged by the and these with the chimneys, several of heat, after lying loaded for above twenty which are standing, are the principal years, and a considerable time at the objects seen from a distance. The enbottom of the lake. trances to this courtyard, or parade, are The view from Ticonderoga down between the buildings, and quite narLake Champlain is very pleasant. It row. By the southern entrance, Ethan abounds, the greater part of the way to Allen entered with his eighty-three raw Canada, with fine natural scenes. soldiers when he surprised the fortress lThe Fortress of Ticonderoga.-This on the 18th May, 1775; and on reachfanmous old fortress, or rather its re- ing the courtyard and calling on the mains, are overlooked fiom Mount In- commander to surrender, the British dependence. An elevated piece of land, officer, Captain Deplace, made his ap- 48 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. pearance at a window and submitted, Island. Mr. Pell has been a very sur l delivering up three officers and forty- cessful propagator of the locust-tre< four rank and file. In consequence of' (robinia pseudo acacia of linneus). this coup-de-main, this important place thousands of which are growing on these was in the hands of the Americans until grounds in the most flourishing manner; the arrival of Burgoyne in 1777. here is also the magnolia grandij7ora, The troops in the garrison had be- never before cultivated in so high a latcome loose disciplinarians. A body of itude; the horse-chestnut (castanea equi. men had been despatched firom Con- nus); and upward of seventy varieties -:ecticut to surprise the place, and ap- of the gooseberry from Europe. Here, preached upon the opposite shore, but also, we find the beautiful catalpa, and were unprovided with a conveyance to the liriodendron tulipifera. the intended point of their enterprise. On the neighboring Vermont shore, A countryman, who had been in the there are still some slight remains of habit of frequently visiting the fort, Burgoyne's intrenchments. was made acquainted with their views, From Mount Independence the visI crossed the lake by daylight, went care- iter enjoys, in fine weather, a delightful fully into the fort, and observed in what view of the lake and the surrounding part of the parade-ground the arrrs country. On the left is the outlet of were stacked. Being almost domicil- Lake George, winding through a dark iated by the frequency of his previous and narrow valley, and spreading out to visits, he lounged away his time until embrace an island of the brightest vernight approached. He then possessed dure; while more immediately under himself of a large bateau owned by the the eye lies the fortress of Ticonderoga, i ariison, and recrossed the lake. Allen, and the lake, stretching far away to the having joined the band, embarked, ef- north. fected a landing about one mile north Mount Defiance rises on the left, of the fort, and proceeded across the about eight hundred feet high, on the meadows, shrouded by the night, and summit of which General Burgoyne's made good their daring enterprise, by troops showed themselves on the mornthreatening the sentry, and taking im- ing of July 4th, 1777, with a battery of mediate possession of the firearms, as heavy cannon, which they had drawn up pointed out by their avant-courier. along the ridge by night, and planted The battlements of Ticondersga first in that commanding position, whence bore the flag of independence. This they could count the men in the fort. circumstance should, of itself, render The distance to the summit in a straight this ruin, so fine in other associations, line is about a mile, so that the defence interesting to the traveller. of Ticonderoga wo,;ld have been inAt each corner was a bastion or a possible; and on tile firing of a few demi-bastion; and under that in the shots by the British upon a vessel in northeastern one is a subterranean mag- the lake, which proved the range of azine. The cellars south of this, which their guns,'the Americans made prepbelonged to the demolished buildings, arations to evacuate the place, and efand are almost filled up, have'a room or fected their retreat to the shore below two with fireplaces still distinguishable. during the night. The Grenadiers' battery is situated The shores are in this part strewed on a rocky point toward the east from with the fragments of blue limestonethe main fortress. They were connected rock with organic remains. by a covered way, the traces of which The immediate shores are generally are distinctly visible. low all the way to Crown Point, where On a spot formerly occupied as the the lake suddenly turns to the west at a king's garden Mr. Pell has a fine gar- right angle, and, at the distance of a den, abounding in the choicest fruits mile, as suddenly to the north again. imported firom Europe, and transported A low stretch of land covered with a from the -celebrated nurseries of Long young forest, on the left, conceals the I)ESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 49 approach to this ancient fortress, which, This parade is about fve hundred feet for position as well as appearance and in length. The place wa.s surprised by history, may be called the twin sister Colonel Warner in 1775. of Ticonderoga. The view from the walls toward the Chimney point is on the north side north is very fine: looking down the of the lake, opposite Crown Point, to lake, which widens at the distance of which is a ferry three quarters of a mile. two or three miles, you have Chimney Th/e Fortress of Crown Point. —There point on the right, and two other points are several old works thrown up along projectingbeyondthedistantpeak, called the shore, with little bays between them. Camel's Hump. Ranges of mountains The easternmost one is called the Gren- on the western shore, beginning at the adiers' battery; the middle one is the distance of eighteen miles, including original old French fort of 1731, and Bald peak, gradually approach till they now encloses a garden; and that fur- form a near and bold boundary to the ther west is an outwork to a bastion of lake on- the left, scattered with cleared the fortress. The fortress is situated farms and houses, and then stretching about a quarter orf a mile back from the away to the south, terminate in the shore, and appears much like Ticonder- mountain behind. This elevation, aloga from a distance, showing the walls though it seems almost as well calcuand chimneys of the old barracks, and iated to command Crown Point as Mount walls of earth surrounding them. In Defiance does Ticonderoga, is not less regard to its plan, however, it is mate- than four miles distant. rially different. The fortress of Crown Everything about this old fortress Point was a star work, being in the bears the marks of ruin. Two magaform of a pentagon, with bastions at the zines were blown up; the timbers in angles, and a strong redoubt at the dis- the south barracks are burnt black; a tance of two hundred and fifty or three portion of the shingled roof which rehundred yards in advance of each of mains serves to cover a little hay-mow them. The fortress is surrounded by a and the nests of robins; while some of ditch walled in with stone, except where the entrances and other parts are fenced it has been blasted into the solid rock up for a sheepfold. The ground around of blue limestone (as is the case in many it is much covered with fragments of parts, from five to twenty-five feet), and blasted rocks, and, particularly at the even into quartz-rock which underlays south, with the ruins of old buildings. it. Univalve shells are found in the The trees which are seen have grown limestone-rock, frequently four inches in since the evacuation of the place; and diameter. The walls are about twenty on one of the angles is an inscription or twenty-five feet high, and there is a of the date of the fortress, 1756, when convenient path running entirely round it was constructed on a greatly-enlarged upon the top, interrupted only by the plan, by General Amherst, at an expense gates at the north and south sides. Al- of t2,000,000 sterling. though much shaded by tall sumacs, Naval Action on Lake Champlain, in some fine views are enjoyed in making 1776.-After the unfortunate terminathe circuit, which is not far short of tion of tht expedition against Quebec, half a mile. and retreat of the American troops to Opposite the north gate is a small Crown Point and Ticonderoga, the Britledge of rocks, and, close by, the remains ish forces under General Carleton began of a covered way to the lake shore. On to collect a formidable flotilla at St. entering the fortress, the stranger finds John, for the purpose of making their himself in a level, spacious area, bound- way over the lake. Some of these vesed on the left and in front bylong ruin- sels were constructed at Quebec, or ous buildings of stone, two stories high, Montreal, in such a manner that they and the first two hundred and twenty could be taken to pieces, transported feet long, while the ruins of similar over land to the lake, and the parts ones are seen on two sides on the right. there united and soon made ready for 4 50 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. service. Active preparations were im- hundred chosen seamen. Such an array mediately commenced on the part of was enough to convince the Americans the Americans to put afloat a sufficient that they must rely mainly on their force to meet the enemy, and baffle their bravery and the advantages of their pomovements. General Arnold, who, as sition. The wind was likewise in their is well known, had been a sailor in his favor, as some of the larger vessels could youth, was appointed to the command; not beat up sufficiently near to engage and, under his direction, a squadron- in the attack. While the enemy's fleet consisting of two sloops, three schoon- was coming round the island, Arnold ers, three galleys, and eight gondolas- hai[ ordered his three galleys, and a was in a short time ready to sail. The schooner called the Royal Savage, to sloops carried twelve guns, the schoon- get under way and advance upon the ers from eight to twelve, and the galleys enemy. On their return to the line, the and gondolas from three to twelve each. schooner grounded and was afterward Having received his instructions from destroyed, but the men were saved. General Gates, who had command of the At half-past twelve o'clock the action army in that quarter, he sailed down the became general and very warm, the lake, and, when within a few miles of the British having brought all their gunIsle-aux-Tetes, discovered it to be occu- boats and one schooner within musketpied by the enemy. At Windmill point shot of the American line. They kept he moored his vessels across the lake, up a heavy fire of round and grapeshot, so as to prevent the enemy from pas- till five o'clock, when they withdrew sing. The decks of his vessels being from the contest, and joined the ship very low, Arnold sent a party of men and schooner, which a head wind had on shore to cut fascines, for the purpose prevented from coming into action. of erecting around them barricades, to During the contest, Arnold was on prevent their being boarded by superior board the Congress galley, which sufnumbers in small craft. While engaged fered severely. It received seven shot in this service, they were fired upon by between wind and water, tvas h.lled the Indians, and three of their number twelve times, the mainmast was woundkilled and six wounded. Finding his ed in two places, the rigging cut in position too much exposed, he returned pieces, and the proportion of killed and eight or ten miles to Isle-la-Motte, and wounded was unusually great. So detook a more advantageous station. He ficient was the fleet in gunners, that here received information of the formi- Arnold himself pointed almost every dable fleet fitting out at St. John; and, gun that was fired from his vessel. The deeming it unadvisable to hazard an ac- Washington galley was equally shattion where he would be compelled to tered, the first lieutenant was killed, engage a superior force under great and the captain and master wounded. disadvantage, he withdrew still further All the officers of one of the gondolas, back, and anchored the fleet in a line except the captain, were lost, and anbetween Valcour island and the western other gondola sunk soon after the enshore of the lake. gagement. The whole number of killed Early in the morning of the 11th of and wounded was about sixty. The October, the guardboats gave notice that enemy landed a large body of Indians, the enemy's fleet was in sight, off Cum- who kept up an incessant fire of musberland head, moving up the lake. It ketry from the island and the opposite soon appeared advancing around the shore, but without effecting much insouthern point of Valcour island, and jury. presented a formidable aspect, there A consultation was held by the officers being one ship with three masts, two as soon as the engagement was over, schooners, aradeau, one gondola, twenty and they agreed, that, considering the gunboats, four longboats, and forty-four exhausted state of their ammunition, and boats with provisions and troops. The the great superiority of the enemy's armed vessels were manned by several force both in ships and men, prudence DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 51 required them to return to Crown Point, ordered the marines to leap into the and if possible without risking another water armed with muskets, wade to the attack. The British had anchored their beach, and station themselves in such a vessels in a line within a few hundred manner on the bank as to prevent the yards of the Americans, stretching from approach of the enemy's small boats. the island to the main, apparently to He was the last man that remained on fiustrate any such design. The night board, nor did he leave his galley till J1 was dark, but a favoring breeze blew the fire had made such progress that- it id from the north, and before morning could not be extinguished. The flags Arnold had passed with his whole fleet were kept flying, and he maintained his through the British line entirely undis- attitude of defence on the shore till he covered. This manceuvre was not less saw them consumed, and the whole of bold in its execution than extraordinary his flotilla enveloped in flames. There in its success. Arnold himself brought are few instances on record of more up the rear in his crippled galley, and, deliberate courage and gallantry than before their departure was known to were displayed by him, from the beginthe enemy, they had ascended the lake ning to the end of this action. ten or twelve miles to Schuyler's island. Being no longer in a condition to opHere they were obliged to cast anchor pose the enemy, he proceeded immefor half a day, in order to stop the leaks diately through the woods with his men and repair their sails. Two of the gon- to Crown Point, and fortunately escaped dolas were abandoned and sunk. In an attack from the Indians, who waylaid the afternoon they set sail again; but the path two hours after he had passed. the wind had died away in the morning, The same night he arrived at Ticonand it now sprung up from the south, deroga. All his clothes, papers, and equally retarding the pursuit of the en- baggage, had been burned in the Royal emy and their own progress. Savage at Valcour island. He found On the morning of the second day at Ticonderoga the remnant of his fleet, the scene was changed. The Congress being two schooners, two galleys, one and Washington galleys, with four gon- sloop, and one gondola. General Waterdolas, had fallen in the rear, all being bury, who commanded the Washington too much disabled to sail fieely. The galley, and one hundred and ten prisonadvanced ships of the enemy's fleet, in ers, were returned on parole by General one of which was General Carleton, Carleton the day after the last action. were found to be gaining upon them, The whole American loss in killed and under a press of sail, and in a short wounded was between eighty and ninety. time were alongside. After receiving a The enemy reported theirs to be about few broadsides, the Washington struck, forty. having been extremely weakened by Notwithstanding the signal failure of the loss of men and injury received in this enterprise, the valor and good conthe first engagement. The whole force duct of the commander and his officers of the attack now fell upon Arnold in were themes of applause throughout the Congress galley. A ship of eighteen the country. guns, a schooner of fourteen, and another RUTLAND. —This is the capital of of twelve, poured forth an unceasing fire Rutland county, and is fifty miles southwithin musket-shot. The contest was west of Montpelier, sixty south of Burkept up with unparalleled resolution for lington, and fifty-two northeast of Benfour hours, when the galley was reduced nington. The first settlement was made almost to a wreck, and was surrounded in this township about the year 1770; by seven sail of the enemy. In this and in the revolutionary war two small situation, Arnold ran the galley and the picket forts were built, one near the four gondolas into a small creek, on the present courthouse in the east village. east side of the lake, about ten miles Otter creek flows through the township from Crown Point; and as soon as they from south to north, and it receives two were aground and were set on fire, he of its tributaries here, West river and 52 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. East creek, on which are several manu- TThe University of Vermont. —This factories. Iron, limestone, and clay, are institution, situated at Burlington, was found in different places, the rocks being incorporated in the year 1791, but did partly primitive, and partly secondary. not go into operation until 1800. The Quarries of blue and black marble are three college buildings are situated on wrought in the limestone range which a fine elevation about a mile from the passes from Berkshire county, Massa- lake, east of the town, commanding a I chusetts, through a great part of Ver- very extensive and agreeable view of mont. The principal village is in the both, two hundred and forty-five feet eastern part, and contains several public above the water. The first edifice, which buildings, particularly a courthouse. was built in 1801, was destroyed by fire BURLINGTON. —This town, the capital in 1824. Two of the present buildings of Chittenden county, and the chief are devoted to the accommodation of place of trade in the state, enjoys a fine students, and the third is used as the situation on an excellent harbor of Lake chapel and for other public purposes. Champlain, from the level of which it The institution is endowed with lands rises, up a bold and considerable emi- reserved in all the townships, except nence, making a beautiful display toward those granted by New Hampshire, the the water. The streets present a pleas- income of which is increasing, and must ant aspect, containing many neat and hereafter become very large. Money elegant residences, with fine gardens, has been furnished by the legislature abounding with flowers and fruits in and by liberal subscriptions. their season. The inhabitants are dis- The corporation consists of seventeen tinguished by intelligence, taste, and members, including the governor, the enterprise, and are extensively engaged speaker of the house of representatives, in trade, manufactures, and navigation, and the president of the university. which is carried on both in steamboats, Rev. Daniel C. Sanders was appointed schooners, and vessels adapted to pass president in 1800, Rev. Samuel Austin through the Champlain canal to Albany. in 1816, Rev. Daniel Haskell in 1821, The county buildings, academy, bank, Rev. Willard Preston in 1824, Rev. Jas. and various churches, are the principal Marsh in 1826. public buildings in the town; while the Commencement is held on the first edifices of the Vermont university crown Wednesday in August, and the vacathe summit of the eminence. Pop. 5,500. tions, one four weeks firom that time, A manufacturing village, of consider- and the other eight weeks from the first able size, lies one mile and a half north- Wednesday in January. The annual east fiom the town, on the bank of expense for room, rent, and tuition, is Onion river, about five miles from its twenty-five dollars. mouth. The liiedical Department of the instiThe settlement of Burlington, which tution affords lectures during fourteen was commenced a little before the rev- weeks from the first Monday after comolution, was interrupted and delayed by inencent, the fees for which are twentythe war, since which, and especially five dollars, contingent bill three dollars, since the opening of the Champlain ca- and graduation fee fifteen dollars. nal and the establishment of steam nav- | MONTPELIER, the capital of Vermont igation on the lake, its increase has been and seat ofjustice of Washington county, rapid. Limestone and iron ore are ob- is thirty-six miles southeast of Burlingtained in the vicinity, but the soil is gen- ton, one hundred and forty northwest of erally poor, excepting a rich alluvial Boston, five hundred and twenty-four tract of land below the falls of Onion north by east of Washington, and one river. Southwest of the town hard tim- hundred and twenty southeast of Monber abounds, and pine prevails in a treal. It stands at the confluence of the 1 region lying on the northeast. Among two branches of Onion river, and ha. a the branches of manufacture is that of remarkably wild and romantic situation, glass. in the midst of high and rugged hills. _ __ __ _I ~ ~ ~ ~ ____________ The State House, at Montpelier. K _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 54 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. It contains the statehouse, a courthouse, and add a feature to the scenery which thejail, academy, bank, several churches, few landscapes can boast. and a variety of manufactories. Windsor is fifty-five miles south of The Statehouse is in a fine situation, Montpelier, fifty-five northeast of Burfronting orn State street, from which it lington, ninety-five northwest of Boston, is distant three hundred and twenty-five and four hundred and twenty nearly feet. A spacious gateway opens into north of Washington. The surface of an ample courtyard, across which leads the township, though hilly, is rich and a pathway of pounded granite, seventy- well cultivated. The first settlement two feet wide, to three successive ter- was made here in 1764. The principal races, the ascent to which, by a few street is crooked, but adorned with sevsteps, gradually surmounts the elevation eral handsome public and private buildof thirty-two feet above the street. The ings, the stateprison in the south part; main building has a front of seventy-two and a bridge crosses the Connecticut. feet, with two wings thirty-nine feet BENNINGTON. —This is a frontier town, each; making an entire front of one on the borders of New York, with a hundred and fifty feet. The main build- hilly surface, rich in iron mines, which ing, including the portico, is one hun- supply corsiderable furnaces and forges. dred feet deep, and the wings fifty. Six The village stands upon a conspicuous granite Doric columns, thirty-six feet eminence, and contains a court and an high, and six feet in diameter at the base, academy. The place derives its name support the portico. The walls of gran-. from Governor Benning Wentworth, ite, from Barre, nine miles distant, are from whom it received its charter in well cut; the roof and dome are cov- 1749. The settlement was commenced ered with copper. The entrance hall in 1761, by separatists, under Samuel is thirty-two by thirty-eight feet, four- Robinson. They were the first of the teen feet high, with six Ionic granite inhabitants who resisted the authorities columns. of New York, and drove them from the The representatives' hall is sixty-sev- soil, denying her jurisdiction. en feet by fifty-seven, and thirty-one feet A range of limestone crosses Benhigh. The senate-chamberis oval, forty- nington county, which has been worked four feet by thirty, and twenty-two feet for some years, and yields good marble high. The governor's room and other of several different colors and qualities. apartments are commodious and in good Some lead is also found. taste. The Battle of Bennington was an acThe expense of the whole, including tion of considerable importance, though the iron railing around the yard, was fought by a detachment of the British $132,000, of which tbe citizens contrib- army on the one side, and the militia of uted $15,000. Pop. 4,500. Vermont and the neighboring counties WINDSOR, of which we have spoken of Massachusetts on the other. It was before, is one of the most important brought about in consequence of Gentowns in the state, as well as one of the eral Burgoyne's.despatching a strong most beautiful, both in appearance and body of Hessians, under Colonel Baum, situation. It occupies a fine piece of to seize a large supply of American proground, which rises, by two graceful visions collected at Bennington. Burswells, from the western bank of Con- goyne was at that time-viz., in the necticut river, shut in on all sides by su- summer of 1777-preparing to move perior eminences, especially on the New down the Hudson for Albany, and was Hampshire side, where the shore is occupied, from July 28 to August 15, in steep and mountainous, and on the west, transporting bateaux, provisions, artilwhere the noble Ascutney, or the Two lery, and baggage, from Whitehall (then Brothers, 3,320 feet higher than the called Skeenesbourgh) and Fort George ocean, forms the background of the pic- to the Hudson. Many obstacles were ture. Though about four miles distant, in his way, General Schuyler; while on its sides and peak appear near at hand, his retreat from Ticonderoga, having DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 55 thrown trees into Wood creek, and left adopted by a council of war, which was much to be done in clearing the chan- designed to take them in the rear of nel of that stream, and in constructing both flanks, while an advance was made a log road across the sandy region, for on their front to occupy their attention. the transportation of the British artil- Colonel Nichols, with two hundred men, lery; while the European troops showed marched for their left-Colonel Herrick, great want of skill in operations so for- with three hundred, for their right'; eigpr to their habits. while one hundred men marched toward Colonel Baum set off for Bennington the centre of their line, and two hunwitli five hundred regular troops, a num- dred more, under Colonels Hubbard her of Canadians, above one hundred and Stickney, marched against the right. Indians, and a few tories; while Lieu- The first two detachments were to unite tenant Colonel Brayman took post at in the enemy's rear, and then fall upon Battenkill, with his Brunswick grena- them together. The Indians fled at the diers, light infantry, and chasseurs, to onset, but the rest of the enemy's troops support him if necessary. stood their ground for two hours, when, General Stark first received informa- after an unsuccessful attempt by the Gertion of the enemy's approach on the man dragoons to cut their way through 13th of August; but at first was aware with their swords, all their works were only of the small body of Indians, and carried, and the whole body, with but sent an equal number of Americans to few exceptions, were either killed or meet them, under the command of taken prisoners. Baum received a morColonel Greg. Near night, however, tal wound. he was apprized that the force was The victory was so complete, that the large, when he called out his whole Americans, supposing all was over, bebrigade, and sent an express to Man- gan to disperse, when General Stark chester to inform Colonel Warner of was apprized of another large force apthe danger, while he ordered the news proaching in front. Happily, Colonel to be spread in all directions. The Warner arrived at the moment with a next morning he marched, and soon met reinforcement of Vermont regulars, who, his advance on their retreat, pursued without loss of time, pressed on to enby the enemy, then only a mile in the counter the enemy; General Stark soon rear. The Americans were immediately followed, with all the militia he could drawn up for battle; on seeing which, muster; and an obstinate engagement the enemy halted at a commanding po- ensued, which terminated at sunset, by sition, but made no demonstration of a the rout and pursuit of the invaders. further advance, thinking it prudent to The approach of darkness alone saved send back for a reinforcement. Eager the greater part of the fugitives, who for the contest, the American sharp- left behind two cannon and many woundshooters pressed the enemy with skir- ed and prisoners. mishes, and succeeded in killing and The whole amount of the enemy's wounding about thirty, including two loss in these actions was two hundred Indian chiefs, without suffering any loss and seven killed, an unknown number themselves. wounded, and about seven hundred prisTo secure a better position, General oners; fourbrassfieldpieces, twelvebaseStark retired to more favorable ground, drums, two hundred and fifty dragoon about a mile in his rear; and the fol- swords, and four ammunition wagons. lowing day, which was stormy, was The American loss was only thirty killed spent in skirmishing. The battle be- and forty wounded. gan the following afternoon, Colonel The principal advantage secured by Symonds having arrived with some this victory, however, was in the courmilitia fiom Berkshire county, Mass. age with which it inspired the army and The enemy had by this time fortified the people, who had been exceedingly themselves on a branch of Hoosick river, depressed by the evacuation of the forand were attacked according to a plan tress of Ticonderoga, and the undis__ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _. 56 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. puted progress of Burgoyne onward Provost, renowned for skill and valor on toward Albany. The resistance which many a battle-field, was to lead the he met with, a few days after, at Bemis's largest division of the formidable troops heights, on the west bank of the Hud- of Wellington. son,:s supposed to have been rendered On the 4th September, 14,000 troops, more spirited and successful by this with their splendid uniform, and faultgreat advantage, gained by the Vermont less discipline, and admirable bands, regulars and irregular troops, assisted and waving banners, and formidable by their bold and hardy neighbors. trains of artillery, having crossed the The supreme court has five judges, lines and marshalled at Champlain, took annually chosen by the legislature. The up their line of march for Plattsburgh. county courts, likewise, have the same There was one regiment of these veternumber, two being chosen by the legis- ans, in which there was scarcely a man lature every year in each county, the who did not bear a wound, and their third and chief being one of the su- disfigured faces, and ferocious and depreme judges on the circuit. The coun- termined aspect, reminded one of the ty courts are held twice a year. The hundred desperate charges of the sanjustices of the peace, also, are appoint- guinary conflicts of the peninsular war. ed by the legislature. At Plattsburgh about one thousand The first newspaper in Vermont was regular soldiers under the command of the " Vermont Gazette, or Green Moun- General M'Comb, and some seven huntain Newsboy," published at Westmin- dred militia under General Moore, were ster in 1781 by Judah Paddock Spooner prepared to oppose the enemy. The and Timothy Green. Two years after, nation, saddened and oppressed by the their press was removed to Windsor. then recent sacking of Washington, and In 1810, the number of newspapers in aware of the tremendous force of her the state was ten; in 1828, twenty-one; formidable foe, looked with deep anxand in 1834, twenty-six. iety and alarm to the issue of the conThe Battle of Plattsburgh. —This was test at this important point. one of the most decisive and important On Monday, September 5, 1814, the engagements in the war of 1812; and British army having advanced to Chazy like several others which we have no- and found the state-road guarded by ticed, although not fought on the soil of Colonel Appling's rifle corps intrenched Vermont, was one in which many of the at Dead creek, aided by a troop of horse people of this state were engaged, and commanded by Captain Safford and in the results of which multitudes of Lieutenant Standish, they crossed to the them were personally and most deeply Beekmantown road, and encamped duinterested. Having given the particu- ring the night three or four miles north lars of the naval battle of the same date of the Burdick house at Beekmantown. in our description of New York, and The militia commanded by General not having had space for the following Moore, and composed of Colonal Miller's r account of the battle on land, we may regiment, a part of Colonel Joiner's regiwith propriety introduce it in this place. ment, Major Sanford's battalion, and Che Three points of our extensive country thirty-seventh regiment, from Essex, appeared to the English to be fatally spent the night at Beekmantown. Bea vulnerable. First, the outlet of the Mis- tween 9 and 10 o'clock at night, Gen sissippi, against which Pakenham was eral Moore sent Major R. H. Walwoltii to lead an army of veterans; second, to the quarters of General M'Comb, Washington —the seat of government- who commanded at the forts,' with a where in August, 1814, General Ross, request that he would send a small body at the head of his victorious legions, of infantry and a couple of pieces of spread fire and sword; and lastly, Lake light artillery, to support the militia in Champlain-the great highway of in- the attack which he intended to make vasion to the most densely-populated on the British forces on their advance portion of the Union-where Sir George in the morning. Major Walworth ar DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 57 rived at General M'Comb's quarters Major Wool, until after he had received about midnight, and the general imme- notice from General Moore that a coldiately ordered a detachment of two umn of 2,000 of the enemy, advancing hundred and fifty infantry under Major on the west Beekmantown road, was John E. Wool, who had previously and gaining on his rear; when the Vermont urgently requested such a command, and troops fell back within two miles of two pieces of light artillery under Cap- Plattsburg. Here Captain Leonard,:ain Luther Leonard, to be ready by with two pieces of light artillery, desdaylight to start for Beekmantown. patched by General M'Comb, arrived to Major Walworth took a party of vol- take part in the action; and the fire of unteers from Captain Atwood's company the artillery, the regular infantry, and and those of Captains Cochran and a portion of the militia, literally mowed Manley, marched rapidly on the bridge, down the enemy's advancing column. and had just commenced taking off the In front of an overwhelming force, plank, when the advanced guard of the platoon after platoon delivered their fire, enemy emerged from the woods within and fell back to load and form, in reghalf musket-shot, and fired upon the ular succession, contesting every inch party taking up the bridge, two of whom, of ground, and seizing every favorable belonging to Atwood's company, were point to unlimber their artillery and severely wounded and taken prisoners. pour a deadly shower of grape upon the Major Walworth and his detachment advancing enemy. After repeated conimmediately fell back to the position tests they were driven across the river, occupied by Major Wool, who, forming the bridges were taken up in the retreat, in the highway and flanked by the militia, a final stand was made on the southern opened a deadly fire upon the head of bank of the Saranac, and the enemy the British column, then just in front of driven back beyond the reach of our Ira Howe's house, and momentarily ar- guns. Forty-five of our men were killed rested its progress. Here several of in the retreat; the British had one lieuthe enemy were killed, and Lieutenant tenant-colonel, two captains, four lieuWest, of the Buffs, and twenty privates, tenants, and more than two hundred severely wounded. Very soon the mi- men, killed or wounded. Next mornlitia broke and mostly retreated in con- ing the British, in attempting to cross fusion. Many, however, remained with the river a few miles west of the village, the regulars to contest the ground, inch were repulsed by Capt. Vaughan. The by inch, and retreat in order. enemy were occupied, the four succeedMeanwhile, General floore, with the ing days, in erecting batteries to play aid of other officers, had succeeded in upon the forts, during which there were rallying a portion of the militia, which, frequent skirmishes along the river; the being ordered to join Major Wool with gallant Green mountain boys, under the his detachment, awaited the approach patriotic General Strong, were wafted to of the enemy at Culver's hill, about our aid by every eastern breeze, swelling four miles from Plattsburgh. This com- our force to upward of three thousand. manding position was maintained with On the evening of the 9th, one hundred so much obstinacy as to compel the and fifty of our men crossed the Saranac, enemy, after attaining the summit of stormed and took, at the point of the the hill, to retire to its base with the bayonet, a battery defended by four hunloss of Lieutenant-Colonel Wellington, dred of the enemy, spiked the guns, and who fell while gallantly leading the made good their retreat, without the Third Buffs to the charge. Here, also, loss of a single man. The battle of Ensign Chapman fell, and Captain West- Beekmantown, the spirited resistance to roff, of the thirty-eighth British regi- the enemy's advance, and the burning of ment, was severely wounded; and here the courthouse, &c., north of the river by several of Major Wool's men, and Pat- the hot shot from our batteries, preventridge of the Essex militia, were killed. ed an immediate attack upon the forts, to Nor was this position abandoned by resist which would have been fruitless. iL ii' il!l 1'ii )/I I///iiII jill 1/1( e I1 r I LII i' j' J'1~~~~~ ~~~~~~ ____ I IIii; III i ~~~'ill I I'III'~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~rlli' I I,.!III 1~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I!ill ~!I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~l "i~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~l ~ ~ ~.11 I I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ ~ ~ il ii IL l //'i i i! Ii I! t i/ II I I i I IiI III Ii I I III II'Li I/ I I! I l l''t~ Ii II ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I: i ~~~~~~~~~~~~f~~~~~~~~~~~! ii, t Ii I i /il~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I li 11!i lI~~~li ~~~~~~~~ I iiS~lillllllllill i I Il ll 1 1 11~j~~~~ll;~ii'~ 11!l~!l~~~~~~~~ii ~! ~~~ I li j/~ llll~iiiiliilll DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 59 II f l — ~-~-~ - ~ ~:~' —.~j._ —- 5Landing of the Pilgrims. l_____ MASSACHUSETTS..THIS state, occupying a leading \ position among the six eastern __ ___,Bi ~ A -: t Wmembers of the Union, in extent, [ commerce, manufactures, wealth, [i ---,- -, ~1~!and population, borders on Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, on the north, and Rhode Island and -[ _~ ~',-. Connecticut on the south; while it is bounded on the east by the Atlantic, and on the west by New York. With the exceptionof the seacoast, the boundaries of Massachusetts are almost entirely art_['k _ -. ificial; and, when we cast our eyes over the map, we can discover none of those natural advantages which distinguish most other countries remarkable for prosperity. Massachusetts is a portion of the western continent i containing no mines of gold, no long navigable rivers, no broad and fertile plains, not even an accessible supply of timber; and a person unacquainted with! the true source of her power and wealth would be at a loss in seeking for it. 6"A land of hills, and valleys, and fountains of water," as the early explorers represented her, in their favorite scripture language, they had little else to say in praise of the natural features of the country. The coast presents a line of inhospitable rocks and reaches of sterile sand, and the approach is rendered difficult and dangerous by a broad tract of shoals, through which a ship can find its way only by pursuing narrow and intricate channels, by careful sounding. HARBORS.-Massachusetts is distinguished by the number and excellence of her harbors, which will very naturally secure to her a large part of the entire commerce of New England, with the exception of Maine, Rhode Island, andt Connecticut. _ _ _- -- — X 60 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. SHoALs. —Nantucket shoals line the religious freedom, and the universal difcoast for fifty miles, and are forty-five fusion of learning. Numbers of them miles in breadth. They are very dan- had taken refuge in Holland from the gerous, being cut through by numerous persecution they were exposed to in channels of different depths, discover- their native land, from the laws which able only by sounding. then forbade them to worship God in IsLANDs.-Several islands of consid- their chosen manner. But, although erable size belong to this state, so situ- treated with kindness by the Dutch r rotated, and so well piovided with head- estants, they at length determined to lands for lighthouses, and with harbors seek a country in which they might for shelter in storms, as to be of impor- rear their children, without exposing tant service to the extensive coasting them to evil influences or to the loss of and foreign trade-especially such as their native language. A band of them are in the vicinity of the shoals. at length proceeded to England, accomNantucket Island is fifteen miles by panied by their pastor, the Rev. Mr. eleven, and forms, with five smaller Robinson, where,' arrangements having islands, a county of the same name. been made, after some delay they sailed It contains nearly thirty thousand acres. for America. The part of the coast on Its inhabitants have long been prover- which they were landed was farther bial for their skill in whalefishing, which north than they had intended to reach; was formerly carried on in boats in sight but this was probably, in the end, more of the shore. They are equally distin- favorable for their success. The Inguished by their skill and boldness as dians had been almost all destroyed by pilots, many of them spending a consid- a fatal disease, so that they found but erable part of their lives in sailing about little opposition among the natives for the shoals to pilot ships. The island is some years. thirty miles south of the mainland, sixty The Plymouth colony was followed southeast of New Bedford, and one hun- by several others. Salem was planted dred south-southeast of Boston. Lat- in 1628, and Boston in 1630. Most of itude 410 15' 22", longitude 700 7' 56". the settlers being of the same class, a Mlartha's Vineyard is twenty miles uniform system of laws and habits was long and from two to five miles broad established, which was gradually exand lies west of Nantucket. Duke's tended, and most of the peculiarities of county is formed of this island and sev- New England still retain the same chareral small ones in its vicinity. acter. The first settlements were made at These first colonies were the sources Plymouth by the passengers in the May- or the channels from which the settleFlower, the first band of English dis- tlements on the Connecticut, and many senters, called puritans, who arrived in of those in New Hampshire and VerAmerica. They reached Cape Cod on mont, derived their impulse and their the 22d of December, 1620, and, after a population, and there we find a general few days, fixed on Plymouth for their identity of sentiment and society. residence, which received its name from The first period in the history of MIasthe last port in England from which sachusetts is that between the first setthey had sailed. The important conse- tlement and the Pequod war, in 1636, quences which resulted from the arrival when Rhode Island and Collnecticut of this little band of exiles have invested river had been occupied and exposed to it with peculiar interest; and the event powerful tribes of savages, against whom and its concomitants have been com- Massachusetts afforded them aid. Then memorated in numerous writings. commenced that active system of mutual The puritans received this title in support, which often secured the safety derision. They had long been the chief of the eastern colonies, and gradually advocates of principles which have since extended to all the colonies from Engbecome extensively adopted in this coun- land, and resulted in forming the United try and elsewhere, particularly civil and U States. -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- 7 ----—!- N~F-__~~~~~- View~ — ofBsol n17;.tknto h oa oDrhse 62 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. The second period extends toPhilip's setts, and courts established in them, war, in 1675, when Massachusetts had each with one English judge, while other several towns on Connecticut river, and officers were all chosen by the natives. had an extensive region to protect at The first Ifidian church was formed home from a powerful savage combina- in 1670, at Natick; the second at Paktion. The third period may be limited emit, now Stoughton, whose first native by the close of the last French war, in teacher was named Ahawton. The other 1759, when the capture of Canada by Christian or praying towns in the Indian the British put an end to the long and country were the following: Okommadisastrous hostilities of France upon the kummessit, now Marlborough; Wamfrontiers of the colonies. The fourth esit, now Tewksbury; Nashobah, now period extends to the close of the rev- Littleton; Mungunkook, now Hopkinolution, and the fifth to the present day. ton; and there were others in Oxford, Early Missions among the Indians.- Dudley, Worcester, and Uxbridge, and Rev. John Eliot began to preach to the three in Woodstock. Indians near Boston in 1646. In 1650 The gospel was thus early made known the English "society for the propaga- to the Indians; many of them received tion of the gospel in foreign parts," it, and it immediately began to produce opened a correspondence with the com- its natural effects, by introdlucing civilmissioners of the United colonies, and ization with many of its advantages. appointed them their agents. Eliot The people became fixed in their hab(the apostle to the Indians, as he is often its and residences, attended to agriculcalled) had, ere this, been so far suc- ture, began to acquire learning, erected cessful iln his exertions as to feel encour- more substantial habitations, and puragement, and to inspire the benevolent sued the arts. with hope. He continued his labors In Plymouth colony the success of several years without reward or expec- the early efforts of missionaries among tation of payment; but afterward re- the natives was still more remarkable. ceiving contributions from gentlemen in About five hundred Indians on Cape Cod, England, he was enabled to extend his under the care of the Rev. Mr. Bourne, operations, and to educate his sons at made rapid improvement. About two college, the eldest of whom afterward hundred soon learned to read, and more preached to the natives. By his exam- than seventy to write, and there was a ple several other clergymen in the coun- church with twenty-seven communitry were encouraged to adopt similar cants, with the Mayhews, at Martha's measures. Mr. Bourne and Mr. Cotton Vineyard. acquired the Indian language to qualify PRINTING.-The Rev. Jesse Glover, them for the task, and preached at Mar- an English dissenting clergymen, has tha's Vineyard, &c.; Mr. Mayhew and been called the father of the American his son preached at that island and at press. He embarked for New Enlgland Nantucket; while Messrs. Pierson and in 1638, with his family, and a printingFitch followed their example in Con- press which he had purchased with necticut. money contributed by himself and his Eliot published his Indian translation friends, accompanied by a printer, Steof the New Testament in 1661, and the phen Daye, whom he had hired. Mr. whole Bible soon after. The printing Glover died on the passage; but the was done at the expense of the society magistrates and elders of Massachusetts for the propagation of the gospel. He encouraged Daye to put the press in prepared also translations of Baxter's operation at Cambridge, where the Call, psalms, hymns, &c., and composed new-comers took up their residences. several works for use in the schools In January, 1639, he puinted the Freewhich he established in the Indian vil- man's Oath, an almanac, and the Psalms lages. Some of the youth were sent to in metre. His first successor, Samuel learn Latin and Greek. Several Indian Green, began to print in 1649, and died towns were constituted by Massachu- in 1702. He had nineteen children, DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 63 and many of his descendants have been conjunction with other railroads beyond printers. the state limits and steam navigation, GOVERNMENT.-The legislative power the city of Boston is connected with is vested in a senate and house of repre- thirteen states of the Union, thus introsentatives, which together are styled the ducing the metropolis of the state to a General Court of Massachusetts. commercial sphere of the utmost imThe senate consists of forty members, portance. The people of Massachusetts who are chosen annually by the people, have shown a remarkable foresight, enby districts, according to population. ergy, and perseverance, in the projection The house of representatives consists and construction of roads within their of members chosen annually by the cities own, and in the subscription to the stock and towns, according to population, ev- of others, in contiguous states, the ultiery town having 300 ratable polls elect- mate benefit of which can scarcely be ing a representative, and for every 450 over-estimated. The money thus apmore, one additional representative. Any propriated amounts, in the aggregate, to town having less than 300 polls, to be over fifty millions of dollars. represented as many years within ten EDUCATION.-Common schools were years, as 300 is contained in the product established by law very soon after the of the number of polls in said town, foundation of the colony of Massachumultiplied by ten. setts Bay; and parents, guardians, &c., The governor is elected annually by were required to have their children the people, and at the same time a lieu- and wards instructed. Every larger tenant-governor is chosen. village and town was to have a gramThe governor is assisted in the execu- mar-school. Education, at least in the tive department, particularly in appoint- rudiments of learning, has always been ments to office, by a council of nine universal in this state; and the influence members, who are chosen by the joint of Massachusetts in extending and susballot of the senators and representa- taining institutions of learning in other tives, from the people. parts of the country has been great, and The judiciary is vested in a supreme not less creditable to her citizens than court, a court of common pleas, and such beneficial to their fellow-citizens of the other courts as the legislature may es- Union. In the recent improvements in tablish. The judges are appointed by common schools, and some other means the governor, by and with the advice of diffusing knowledge, she has been and consent of the council, and hold their one of the most efficient states; and offices during good behavior. many of the measures approved and The right of suffrage is granted to ev- practised by the intelligent friends of ery male citizen twenty-one years of age learning have been devised or brought and upward (excepting paupers and per- into use, or most early or effectually sons under guardianship), who has resi- put into practice, within her boundaries. ded within the commonwealth one year, Yet Massachusetts, until 1835, has never and within the town or district in which had a school fund, and her common he may claim a right to vote, six months schools were wholly supported by the preceding any election, and who has people. A fund was then provided for, paid a state or county tax. limited to one million of dollars. RAILROADS.-There are completed and Every town or district containing fifty in full operation witain the borders of families is required to have a school the state of Massachusetts more than kept at least six months in the year; or, twelve hundred miles of railroads. Dur- if several schools exist, they shall be ing the year 1850, nearly ten millions kept long enough to equal one school of passengers passed over these roads for six months. For those containing which also transported two and a half, one hundred families the requisition is millions of tons of freights.-But these doubled; and for those containing one many lines of railroad have more than hundred and fifty families, eighteen an interior benefit for the state. In months are required. 64 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. Massachusetts is therefore justly enti- machinery of a society constituted as tled to a large share of the credit of hav- that is in which we live. it must be by ing given an impulse to the cause of POP- promulgating among the people the senULAR EDUCATION. The early settlers of timent of the necessity of education —by that section of our country were fully arousing their attention to its value-by sensible of the defects of the English in- demonstrating its beneficial results, as stitutions which they had forsaken. That not only the best check on the increase the schools of learning and religion were of crime, the prevention of pauperism, corrupted, and the fairest hopes over- but also the promoter of public order thrown by licentious behavior in those and private happiness-that we can hope seminaries, was one among the many to have education generally diffused. So causes of their emigration from the Old soon as the people are convinced, we World, and of pledging themselves to shall have the brilliant object which all the education of their children. In the should desire to see effected. To proyear 1668, a document was published by duce great results, must be the work of order of the government and council of time. The past labors of the people are Massachusetts, and addressed to the el- the best evidences of their devotion to the ders and ministers of every town, in advancement of learning, and give great which paper was set forth an earnest hope that the system of education will desire for the moral and religious instruc- be laid with a broad and deep foundation of the people, and an appeal to those tion, on which the pyramid of the repubto whom the instrument was directed, to lic's glory and security may rise, and reexamine whether the education of youth main an imperishable monument of the in the Enlglish language was attended to. benevolence and wisdom of her citizens. From the time of the Winthrops and In connexion, however, with the above, their associates, who labored zealously we most unhesitatingly assert that mere in this field of usefulness, to the present intellectual improvement is not, or should period, New England has devoted her not be, the exclusive or even the primaattention to the promotion of knowledge; ry object of EDUCATION. Moral and reliand in the industry, integrity, and fru- gious principles are infinitely more mogality of her children, now beholds the mentous to the character and interests brilliant results of her perseverance. of the future man than the cultivation of When we consider that the tide of im- the mind alone, whether we look to the migration, which is sweeping before it individual himself, or to the influence the forests of the west, takes its rise in which he will hereafter exercise upon the eastern section of the United States, society. The talented and accomplished and bears upon its bosom the elements scholar may shine in public and social of enrichment-that it is composed, in a life-may astonish by the depth of his great- degree, of those who have been erudition, charm by the graces of his elenabled to obtain there the rudiments oquence, or dazzle by the coruscations of learning, the first principles of valua- of his wit; but the truly moral and virble information-ought we not to be tuous man-THE MAN OF PRINCIPLE ONLY grateful to those who have toiled and -is the centre around which domestic ape still doing all that lies in their pow- felicity revolves; he only contributes to er to render the fountain pure and trans- the real and enduring benefit of society, parent. and his own near and dear connexions. Too much can not be done in arousing Contemplated in this aspect (and few, public opinion on the subject of the ed- we think, will refuse thus to contemplate ucation of children. Let the instruction it), the morality which may be learned of a child be considered the paramount from any system of religious opinions duty of a good citizen, and then public that professes to take the Bible for its sentiment will act much more powerful- basis, deserves to be estimated far more ly to produce the results desired than highly than even the most extensive acthe staff of the officer of police. Public quirements and splendid abilities, if unopinion is the best balance-wheel of the controlled by those motives and principles DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 65 of action which alone can direct them to lard, Coleman, Prince, the Eliots, Byles, the production of solid and abiding advan- Thacher, Wadsworth, Pemberton, Caltage. Devoid of these principles, they lender, Sewall, Cooper, Checkley, Mayhave been almost invariably found, like hew, Gee, Walter, Condy, Stillman, sharp and polished weapons in the hands Chauncey, Lathrop, Howard, West, Belof a lunatic, to inflict a mortal wound up- knap, Parker, Everett, Kirkland, Emeron the possessor, and strike deep at the son, Buckminster, and Channing. They best interests of society. were eminent scholars, as well as able " A people, to be truly fiee, must first theologians. We have only room for a be wise and good." This is truly an few of the distinguished laymen of early admirable maxim, and so evident as not times. These were Winthrop, Bellingto admit of doubt, even if it had not been ham, Leverett, Stoughton, Cheever, Bulklong since fully demonstrated in the an- ley, Dummer, Cook, Brattle, the Sewnals of the past. Education is the ground- alls, Belcher, Oliver; and in later pework of national freedom and civilization riods, Otis, Bowdoin, Samuel Adams, -the foundation on which have origina- Gridley, Joseph Warren, John Hancock, ted the great and essential improvements Richard Dana, Governor Hutchinson, of agriculture, the mechanical branches, Thacher, Sears, Quincy, Mason, &c. Of and the pursuits of science-the main these latter individuals especially, many pillars which constitute a nation's power of them made great exertions, and sufand character. These and the fine arts, fered much in various ways, during the which polish and adorn the whole-the war of the Revolution. Several of them beauties of nature, eloquence, and sci- were opulent merchants, and they loaned ence, with all the social endearments, largely of their money to the government which refine and embellish society-as for its support. During that period not well as the higher and more sublime only was the commerce of this ancient character of those moral and political in- metropolis long suspended and greatly stitutions, which bind together and direct injured, but many of its public and prithe whole,-are all the effects of that vate buildings destroyed. It furnished strength and intelligence which educa- great numbers of men in various ways tion has imparted to the human mind. in the service of the country; they were And when we consider that ignorance is obliged to be constantly under arms in the grand cause of vice and crime among times of danger and apprehension. The the poor-that it contributes to their mor- citizens of all classes —the merchants and al debasement and misery,.. excluding mechanics, and the professional menthem from the enjoyment of all rational were zealous advocates of the Federal delight-confining their pastimes and Constitution in 1788, and afterward the pleasures to mere feats of strength and firm supporters of the administrations of inebriating hilarity-and how it prevents Washington and Adams. We learn, from the mind from expanding for the recep- a series of articles, prepared and pubtion of virtue and morality-we can not lished by EDWIN WTILLIAMIS, Esq., of but rejoice at the success of all plans for New York, that " the honor of originailluminating this darkness, and respect ting a suggestion which afterward led to the names and memories of those great the organization of the old Continental and good men who have contributed so Congress, and prepared the way for the largely and freely of their time, influ- independence of these United States, ence, and earthly substance, to extend was due to the name of SEARS."* the blessing of a sound and religious ed- ~ Colonel ISAAC SEARS, the distinguished character ucation to every son and daughter within here alluded to, was the originator and leader of the " Sons of Liberty" at the opening of the American the reach of their influence. Revolution. He seems for a time to have representMany of the most eminent men of the ed the spirit of that revolution more fully than any state and nation were natives or long citi- other person in the city and vicinity of New York. His life has never been written, which, including the zens of Boston. The early clergymen doings of the "Liberty Boys," is an interesting and were Cotton, Wilson, the Mathers, Oxen- unexplored province of our revolutionary annals. He is often referred to in the correspondence of Washbridge, Norton, Allen, Davenport, Wil- ington, Gouverneur Morris, and Messrs. Adams, as 66 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. l These illustrious worthies of a past as age and increasing infirmity contractage being dead, yet speak to us. WVe ed the circle of action —bestowing, withdo well to hallow their memories and out ostentation, their latest efforts upon record their noble deeds. Interesting the state and neighbo.hood in which they associations cluster around these great resided. There, with patriarchal simactors in the drama of THE PAST. They plicity, they lived, the objects of a nabelong to the nation; for not the old tion's grateful remembrance and affecstates merely, but those which sprang in- tion-the living records of a nation's histo being?ut yesterday, look upon the tory; the charm of an age which they glory of the Revolution as a common delighted, adorned, and instructed, by patrimony. This nation must ever be their deeds of benevolence, and vivid sensible of the worth of its benefactors, sketches of times that are past; and, as and real merit will soon dissipate the it were, the embodied spirit of the Revmists,f party prejudice. Its effect, like olution itself, in all its purity and force, that of a very strong sympathetic feeling diffusing its wholesome influence through running through the people, must be to the generations that have succeeded, reknit more closely the bonds of national buking every sinister design, and invigunion. It has given freshness to the orating every manly and virtuous resolumemory of common efforts in the great tion. national struggle, which must always We can not set in too strong a light prove a powerful tie among men who their history. It awakens the public exult in the achievements of a common gratitude for their services; it tells their ancestry. It may have furnished some countrymen to be faithful to their prinincense to the vanity imputed to our na- ciples, and vigilant in preserving those tion; but this is as dust in the balance institutions free and unimpaired, to atcompared with the spirit which it indi- tain which they sacrificed their ease and cates and the feelings which it has awa- safety. These eulogies are in fact the kened. Here we may learn useful les- people's testimony to the excellence of sons for the future, from the history of our form of government. The venerathe past. tion paid to such men as ADAMs and JEFLet us follow these distinguished men FERSON is an acknowledgment of the to " old age;" when Nature seemed to worth of the political principles which demand repose, each had retired to the they labored to establish. And when spot from which the public exigencies the kingdoms of the Old World are tothad first called him-his public labors tering to their foundations, what can be ended, his work accomplished, his be- more proper or grateful than the sight loved country prosperous and happy- of a whole people unitingto testify their there to indulge in the blessed retrospect love for the government under which they of a well-spent life, and to await that pe- live? In other countries, one half of the rind which comes to all. Did they pass nation is employed in preventing the oththeir time in idleness and indifference? er fi:om pulling the political machine to No. The same spirit of active benevo- pieces. HERE, ALL ARE UNITED TO UPlence, which made the meridian of their hOLD IT. lives resplendent with glory, continued Of the present distinguished, patriotic, to shed its I ustre upon their evening path. and benevolentcitizens of Boston, a long Still intent on DoING GOOD, still devoted list mighlt be here given, and then not all to the great cause of human happiness be mentioned. It has been remarked, and improvement, none of these illustri- and with great truthfulness, that the libous men relaxed in their exertions. They erality of her rich men is proverbial from seemed only to concentrate their energy Maine to Missouri, and has secured for that city a name which, we trust, future rendering important services to the colonies, and is att, ut named in the journals of those times as a brave and generations will not only respect, but enheroic character. The materials of his biography are deavor to add to its lustre, by imitating yet extant in public and private documents in the such men as the LAWRENCES, DAVID city and state of New York, and ought to be collected and preserved, as important sources of history. SEARS, the APPLETONS, THOMAS H PER Mi-lilt rl Residence of John Hancock, Boston; Residence of John Hancock, Boston. 68 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. KINS, and a host of others, whose coffers fifty-seven thousand dollars from Mr. are not closed, but who are constantly Woodbridge Little. It is under the contributing, by their princely individu- charge of seventeen trustees. al donations of ten and twenty thousand The Newton Theological Seminary, dollars, to undertakings of philanthropy under the patronage of the baptist deand charity-encouraging talent, promo- nomination, was founded in Newton in ting industry, and fostering the fine arts; 1825, and was incorporated by the legisthus setting amostnoble example to the lature the next year. In 1828, a brick wealthy of other cities which we could building, three stories in height, besides wish more generally imitated. Since a basement story, eighty-five feet long the year 1800, over THREE MILLIONS and forty-nine wide, was erected, at an OF DOLLARS have been given in munifi- expense of about ten thousand dollars. cent gifts by the citizens of Boston to Three convenient houses have been since the cause of education alone. erected for the professors. In the manThe first settlers of New England were sion-house are accommodations for the exceedingly tenacious of their civil and steward's family, a dining-hall, a chapel, religious rights, and they well knew that and recitation-rooms. The regular course KNOWLEDGE was an all-powerful engine of study occupies three years. There to preserve those rights, and transmit are two vacations of six weeks eachthem to their posterity. They therefore one from the last Wednesday but one in very early laid the foundation of those August, the other from the last WednesFREE SCHOOLS of which all the sons and day in March. The seminary is about daughters of New England are so justly seven miles from Boston, in a very saluproud. Exclusive of infant and sabbath Lbrious locality, being beautifully situated school children, about a quarter part of on an elevated hill, which commands an the population of Boston is kept at school extensive prospect of Boston and of the throughout the year, at an annual ex- rich country around. pense of about two hundred thousand CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY. —This instidollars. tution, which is the oldest in the Union, Their successors have nobly imitated and the most liberally endowed, was their bright and patriotic example. Such commenced in 1636 by the general court men are indeed the fathers of the nation, of Massachusetts, who then appropriated and must ever live in the affections of four hundred pounds sterling toward the the people. When time has consigned establishment of a college, which was them to their honored graves, the good incorporated in 1638, under the title of they have done will live after them. Fu- " Harvard College," in consequence of a ture generations will rise up and call legacy left it that year, by Rev. JOHN them blessed. Their names will fill a HARVARD, of X779 17s. 2d. The state niche in the temple erected in every one's and different liberal donors have since memory, to commemorate those who, as increased its funds to a large amount. they passed along the pathway of life, It is situated in the city of Cambridge, scattered the seeds of knowledge and three miles west frotn Boston, and commorality, which have taken root, sprung prises an academical department, as well up, bearing the most delectable fruits, as those of law, theology, science, and agreeable to the sight, and of pleasant medicine. Each of these five departflavor. merits is distinct in itself, with its own Williams College, at Williamstown, particular government and body of inBerkshire county, in the northwest cor- structors, each having its separate funds, ner of the state, was a public school or its own pupils, and its peculiar objects, academy at its commencement, in 1791, but all subject to one supreme head. and was incorporated as a college in The buildings of the university are 1793. It derives its name from its found- fourteen in Cambridge and one in Boser, Colonel Ephraim Williams. Besides ton. Four of the principal buildings are donations from the state and several in- of four stories, for the accommodation dividuals, it has received a bequest of | of students; two others contain the min : —---------— llIl -~ -~~~; -- ~- - - - -2 Em: —— ~~ —-- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- EHarvard University 70 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. eralogical cabinet, the library, the chap- by weather-proof shutters, and worked els, &c. Besides these are the halls of by means of an endless chain and toothed law, divinity, medicine, &c. It has an wheel. excellent anatomical museum, and a bo- On the lower side of this dome is aftanical garden of eight acres, richly stored fixed a grooved iron rail, and on the granwith an extensive collection of trees, ite cap of the wall is placed a similar shrubs, and plants, both native and for- rail: between these grooves are placed eign. The libraries contain above forty eight iron spheres, accurately turned, on thousand volumes, including those of the which the dome is revolved. The appaseveral departments. Those belonging ratus for moving the dome consists of to the studies contain about five thou- toothed wheels, geared to a series of sand volumes. The cabinets and appa- toothed iron plates, fastened to its lower ratus are very valuable. The annual section. By means of this, the whole commencement is on the third Wednes- dome, weighing about fourteen tons, can day in July. be turned through a whole revolution, Cambridge Observatory. —This obser- by a single person, in thirty-five seconds. vatory is situated on a commanding emi- In this dome are placed the " Grand Renence called Summer-house hill, the sum- fractor," and one or two smaller instrumit of which is about fifty feet above the ments. The comet-seeker, a small inplain on which are erected the buildings strument of four inches' aperture, by of the university. This height is found Merz, is used from the balconies of the to give firom the dome an horizon almost dome. This is the instrument with which uninterrupted to within two or three de- the younger Bond has discovered no less grees of altitude. The grounds appro- than eleven telescopic comets before inpriated to the use of the observatory com- telligence had reached him of their havprise about six and a half acres. It is ing been seen by any other observer. distant nearly three fourths of a mile From these balconies a most extensive northwest from University hall, and three and beautiful view of the neighboring and a half miles in the same direction towns meets the eye-their numerous from the statehouse in Boston. hills, spires, &c. This observatory may be said to owe On either side of the tower is a large its existence to the liberality of the Hon. wing. Of these, the eastern is used as DAVID SEARS, who contributed five thou- a dwelling for the observer; the westsand dollars for the erection of an obser- erg, on which is placed the smaller dome, vatory tower, five hundred dollars tow- is used for magnetic and meteorological ard the purchase of a telescope, and five observations. This wing was erected in thousand dollars more to create a fund, the years 1850-'51, and adds greatly to the income of which to be appropriated the architectural beauty of the observato the support of the observers, and for tory. In this dome is placed the smaller other purposes of science. equatorial, of five feet focal length, and SEARS TOWER, so called in honor of an object-glass of four and one eighth its founder,. whose generous donation is inches, made by Merz, which is a rementioned above, is built of brick, on a markably fine instrument. foundation of granite, laid with cement. The "4 Grand Refiractor," justly conIt is thirty-two feet square on the out- sidered second to none in the world, has side, while on the inside the corners are already become celebrated in the hands gradually brought to a circular form for of the skilful and scientific director and the better support of the dome, forming his assistant, from the many brilliant disa massive arch. This dome, covering coveries which have been made with it. the grand equatorial, is a hemisphere of Among these we may particularly menthirty-two feet interior diameter, formed tion the new ring and satellite of the with stout ribs of plank, and covered ex- planet Saturn. It has also enabled the ternally with copper. There is an open- observers to resolve the principalnebulae, ing five feet wide, and extending a few particularly those in the constellations degrees beyond the zenith,whichis closed Orion and Andromeda. The object-glass Cambridge Obsersatorv, with the Sears Tower. 72 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP MASSACHUSETTS. Grand Refractor, Cambridge Observatory. was made at the celebrated manufactory One of the most ingenious contrivanof Merz and Mahler, in Munich, Bavaria. ces connected with the observatory is the Its extreme diameter is fifteen and a half " observer's chair," invented by the diinches, its focal length is twenty-two feet rector. By means of this chair, the obsix inches, and its total weight is nearly server can transport himself to any part three tons; yet the firiction is so success- of the dome without moving from his futy relieved by the judicious arrange- seat. ment of wheels and counterpoises, that it The new method of finding the motion could be pointed to any quarter of the of the earth, by means of a pendulum, heavens by the finger of a child. has been tried at the observatory, and A sidereal motion is communicated to also by Professor Horsford, at the Lawthe telescope by clock-work, by means of rence Scientific School. which an object may be constantly kept Lawrence Scientific School.-Practical in the field of view, which essentially instruction in the mathematical, physical, aids the observer in delicate examina- and natural sciences, upon a more extions of celestial objects. tended plan than that pursued in the unBesides the grand refractor, the object- dergraduate department of Harvard, had glass, &c., the observatory is furnished been a subject of discussion previous to with many smaller instruments, and a the time of President Everett. In his complete set of meteorological instru- inaugural address, however, the project ments, an astronomical clock, and side- of a separate scientific school received real chronometers. its first distinct announcement. About DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 73 _I II Lawrence Scientific School, at Cambridge. this time a vacancy occurred in the Rum- that of engineering. At the commenceford professorship by the resignation of ment of 1848, the corporation conferred Professor Treadwell. The situation was upon the institution the name of " LAWfilled by the election of Professor Hors- RENCE SCIENTIFIC SCHOOL." ford, of New York, who soon after his In the summer and autumn of 1849, arrival in Cambridge submitted to the a laboratory, unsurpassed even in Eucorporation a plan for the erection and rope, in its conveniences for practical furnishing of a laboratory fbr instruction instruction, was erected and furnished; in chymistry' and its applications to the and in the year following a building was arts, contemplating an expense of fifty constructed for the temporary accommothousand dollars. This plan, in an able dation of the departments of zoology, letter from the treasurer, Hon. Samuel geology, and engineering. A. Eliot, was laid before Hon. Abbott The Andover T/heological Academy Lawrence. was the first institution of the kind in To this appeal iMIr. Lawrence respond- the country. It was commenced in 1808, ed in a spirit of munificence altogether having been founded the year before. It unexampled. The gift (of fifty thousand is situated in Andover, a pleasant village, dollars) was accompanied by a letter, in a fine, elevated tract of country, nineproposing, in addition to the erection of teen miles northwest of Boston. The suitable buildings, including a laborato- value of the property belonging to it has ry, to found two new professorships, one been stated at four hundred thousand of zoology and geology, and another of dollars, for which it has been largely inengineering, which, with the Rumford debted to the liberality of its principal professorships, were to constitute the nu- donors, namely, John Norris, of Salem; cleus of a school for the " acquisition, Samuel Abbott, of Andover; and Moses illustration, and dissemination of the prac- Brown and William Bartlett of Newbutical sciences." ryport. Soon after the receipt of the donation The buildings of the institution conof Mr. Lawrence, Professor Agassiz, of sist of a dwelling-house for each of the Switzerland, was invited to the chair of professors; Phillips hall, of brick, ninezoology and geolofgy, and at a later pe- ty feet by forty, four stories, containing riod Lieutenant Eustis (of the army) to thirty-two rooms for students, built in -j 74 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 1808; Bartlet chapel, an elegant brick chusetts Gazette and Postboyr; in Salem, building, ninety-four feet by forty, con- the Essex Gazette; in Newburyport, the taining a chapel, library, and three lec- Essex Journal; and in Worcester (first ture-rooms, built in 1818; and Bartlet published at Boston), the MaSsachusetts hall, a handsome brick edifice, one hun- Spy. The first daily paper in Massadred and four feet by forty, containing chusetts, was the Boston Daily Adverthirty-two suites of rooms furnished, pre- tiser, begun in 1813. sented by Mr. Bartlet in 1821. The build- The earliest periodical pamyhlets or ings stand on elevated ground, having a magazines printed in the state were the commanding, variegated, and beautiful following: firom. 1789 to 1796, the Masprospect. sachusetts Magazine, or Monthly MuseThe library of the seminary contains um, which extended to eight volumes; abotyt fifteen thousand volumes. Besides in 1800, the Columbian Phoenix and Bosthis, there are two other libraries: one, ton Review, which ceased after the eighth of the Porter Rhetorical Society, con- number; in 1802, the New England Magtaining from two to three thousand vol- azine; from 1803 to 1811, the Monthly umes; the other, belonging to the Soci- Anthology, or Boston Review, in ten volety of Inquiry respecting Missions, con- umes, edited at first by Phineas Adams, taining from one to two thousand vol- and afterward by Rev. William Emerumes. There is an athenaeum and news- son, W. S. Shaw, A. M. Walter, James room, supported by the students. An- Savage, and others; in 1803, the Amerinexed to the institution is a commodious can Baptist Magazine was begun, which mechanic's shop, where the students can continued under several editors; in 1805; exercise themselves in carpentering or the Missionary Magazine, by congregacabinet-work. The term is three years. rional clergymen; in 1806, the Panoplist, The principal study for the first year is by Rev. J. Morse and others: these two the Bible in its original tongues. The were united in 1808, and edited by Rev. second year is occupied in the study of Jeremiah Evarts firom 1810 till 1820, systematic theology. The third year is when the Missionary Herald took its devoted to' the study of ecclesiastical place, which is still continued, under the history, and the composition of sermons. American Board of Commissioners for There is also a Teachers' Seminary near Foreign Missions. Literary, religious, the institution, which will accommodate and scientific publications of this class two hundred students. It is under the have since multiplied to such a degree, trustees of Phillips Academy and four that we have not room for any further visii ers. notice under this head. The North LEARNED SOCIETIEs. —The American American Review, however, must be Academy of Arts and Sciences was in- mentioned, as one of the oldest and most corporated in 1780, and wras published influential publications of the kind in the several quarto volumes. United States. It was commenced in The Massachusett. Medical Society 1815, forms two volumes annually, and was incorporated in 17 81. has been edited successively by William The Alassachu'etss Historical Society Tudor, Jared Sparks. Edward T. Challwas established in 1791 and incorpora- ning, Edward Everett, Alexander H. Evted in 1794, and has published many- vol- erett, &c. umes of collections. BosToN, the capital of this state, is sitThe American Antiquarian Society was uated on a small peninsula at the head incorporated in 1812. of Massachusetts bay, at the mouth of The American Institute of Instruction Charles river, and is the principal cily was founded ill 1831. and seaport of New England. Tlhe harNEWSPAPERS, &c.-The number of bor is accessible, large, and well pro0tectnewspapers published in this state before ed by both nature and art. This city the Revolution (in 1775) was seven, viz., contains an uncommonly large proporin Boston, the Boston News-Letter, the tion of fine buildings, particularly private Evening Post, the Gazette, the Massa- residences. The finest buildings are of ____ _ _ _ _ i f L; _i Boston and Bunker Hill from the ast.:~-. —~~ —----- -___. — _ _ —.=- I= = =~~~I~::::.li~'~~~J-! a a |~U E___E _ E E 4~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~1~-~~) 1 -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Boston annd Bunker Hill from the cast. 76 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE, OF MASSACHUSETTS. whitish granite, brought from the shores streets, and extends to Roxbury. About of the Merrimack river and Quincy. one fourth of the buildings in this section Boston, like many other large cities, are of wood. Those that have been most has been, by common consent, divided recently erected are of brick and graininto districts, with names indicating the ite, exhibiting an improved style of arlocation of each. Thus there are North chitecture. The buildings here, also, are Boston, West Boston, East Boston, South generally occupied for dwellings, except End, and South Boston. The first sec- the lower stories of those on Washington tion embraces the north end of the city, street. or all that part lying north of Faneuil SOUTH BOSTON is that section of the hall, and what was the canal, or Mill- city which is separated from the penincreek. This is the oldest part, and for- sula, or the ancient town, by an arm of merly had the advantage of the principal the harbor reaching to Roxbury. It contrade. The streets here are generally tains about five hundred and sixty acres, narrow and crooked, and some of them and, except East Boston, is the newest remain much as they were when first con- and most unsettled part of the city. The structed, on the model of the old towns population has increased rapidly within in England. The buildings are mostly a few years, and a considerable number old, and many are built of wood, and ex- of buildings has been erected, chiefly of hibit the different styles of architecture brick. This once was a part of Dorchesused for a period of more than a century ter, and embraces the hills known forand a half. Except a portion of what merly as Dorchester heights, so famed was formerly the Millpond, the only spot in the annals of the American Revoluof land not covered by buildings at pres- tion. There are two free bridges that ent is on Copps hill, and the greater part connect this with the older part of the of this is occupied for a burial-ground. city: one is at the South End, near the From this hill the British cannonaded Neck; the other leads fiom Windmill the town of Charlestown in 1775, during point, and was built in 1828. the memorable battle of Bunker hill. EAST BOSTON is an island, formerly They left a small fort standing on this known as Maverick's, Noddle's, and Wilhill, which remained a favorite resort for liams' island. In 1814, the citizens of the recreation of schoolboys until 1807. Boston erected a fort 6n its eastern exThe natural situation of this section of tremity, which was called Fort Strong. the city gives it an advantage over any In 1830, some eight or ten of the most other part, whether considered as a place enterprising capitalists of Boston purfor comfortable and healthy residence, chased this island, and commenced layor its convenience for trade. The chan- ing it out into streets and lots, with a nel of Charles river runs close to the view of making it an important part of shore, and has depth and width sufficient the city. Among the important improveto accommodate ships of the greatest bur- ments in East Boston, we enumerateden. The spirit of improvement recently first, the introduction of the Cochituate awakened in North Boston shows that water by the city of Boston; second, the the citizens begin to appreciate its ad- construction of the Grand Junction railvantages. road; third, the construction of the sea- I WEST BOSTON lies between the com- wall across the basin, thus reclaiming a mon and Canal street, west of Hanover large quantity of low lands which were and Tremont streets, and has been re- hitherto partially covered by the tidecently built. The buildings are princi- waters. These lands consist of marsh pally of brick, erected in a handsome and flats to the extent of about ninetystyle, and are mostly used as dwellings. five acres, lying between Westwood isThe statehouse, hospital, national thea- land and the Eastern railroad. The poptre, courthouse, and jail, are located in ulation of East Boston is about twelve or this section. fifteen thousand. It has a deep-water The SOUTH END comprises all the fiontage of seventeen thousand feet, and peninsula south of Summer and Winter the Cunard steamers have here a wharf. 111~~~~- - ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ -~~ —-— "-~~~ —------- - c,Old City Hall, State- Street, Boston. [ ___________________________________________________________________________ -I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 78 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. THE BOSTON COMMON.-This is a a favorite part of the city on account of large and beautifill public square, in the its fine scenery, free air, and retirement. western part of the city, lighted by gas, On the west it looks down on Charles encircled by an iron fence, and extend- river, there spreading out into a wide ing down the long and gentle slope of bay. Beacon hill It contains about forty- THE STATEHOUSE.-Overlooking the three acres, exclusive of the malls which common from the summit of Beacon hill, surround it, and the botanic garden west on its northern side, stands the statehbuse. of it, the whole comprehending at least This elegant and spacious edifice was seventy-five acres of open land dedicated erected in 1795. The building is seen to the public. In spring and summer, at a great distance in all directions, and when covered with a coat of verdant is the principal object visible when the grass, and while the numerous fine trees city is first seen by those who visit it. which shade it are in full foliage, the The form is oblong, being one hundred sight is remarkably striking, and can not and seventy-three feet in front, and sixtybe contemplated without admiration, as one feet deep. The height of the buildone of the largest and most beautiful ing, including the dome, is one hundred public groundsin America. Beingslight- and ten feet; and the foundation is about ly relieved by several swells and depres- that height above the level of the water sions, it is remarkably well adapted to the of the bay. It consists externally of a manceuvring and encampment of troops, basement story twenty feet high, and a to which it is devoted on days of military principal story thirty feet high. This, in display. In the centre of this park there the centre of the fi'ont, is covered with is a beautiful piece of water, known by an attic sixty feet wide, and twenty feet the name of "Frog-pond," of about half high, which is covered with a pediment. an acre in exftent, and enclosed by edge- Immediately above rises the dome, fifty stones of hammered granite. It is now feet in diameter, and thirty in heightornamented with a beautiful fountain. the whole terminating with an elegant Near this pond, and south of it, stands circular lantern, which supports a pine the celebrated old elm, which for nearly cone. The basement story is figished in two centuries has triumphed over the a plain style on the wings, with square heats of summer and the blasts of win- windows. The centre is ninety-four feet ter, and under whose shade were for- in length, and formed of' arches which merly held the drumhead courts-martial project fourteen feet, and make a covand the parades of military executions. ered walk below, and support a colonBefore 1733, rows of trees had been nade of Corinthian columns of the same planted on some parts of the common, extent above. as, in that year, it was resolved that more A beautiful statue of Washington, by should be planted. Since that time the Chantrey, was procured by private subtrees have been greatly multiplied, so that scription, and placed in the statehouse in the common is at present suirounded with the year 1828. The costume is a milibroad and shady avenues, where, on' the tary cloak, which displays the figure to smooth gravel-walks, thousands of citi- advantage. The effect is imposing and zens find a favorite retreat from heat, and go)od; but, instead of confining himself the enjoyment of a cool breeze, on the to a close delineation of features, the summer evenings. The number of elms sculptor, like Canova, has allowed some now exceeds seven hundred; and'these latitude to his genius in expressing his are, in some parts, tastefully intermin- idea of the character of tile subject. gled with other kinds of trees, lining the The view fi;om the top of the statenumerous shady paths which lead across house is very extensive and variegated; the grounds around their circuit, or by perhaps nothing in the country is supewinding courses up and down the gentle rior to it. To the east appears the bay declivities. and harbor of Boston, interspersed with On three sides the common is bordered beautiful islands; and the distance beby long ranges of stately mansions, being yond, the wide-extended ocean. To the ---------- -- ~1 _ _ __ _ I_ -— _ ^ —------ -" 1 - —--------- -— ^ —------- -------------- -r= —I=z -- --- ----- -- -- — -------------- -- -- ----------- ---------- ----- -- -- -- ---------------— ~ —-- -------- -- -- ---------- -- --- ----------------- -- - ---- --- -- -------- _ ______ ~, _7 __5 -- I —------ - - - -ii.,L = 1 —-------------------— —= -e. XFL — ~ —--------- r' ---— c — - — rs=-=r= — -- -rr --- - _ —. —L =~= —==-h=-;==-' —-;== --— - ~ —-- ------ -- ~-~ 1(1: - 111 —-,,, --- s~ The Boston Conomon, with the Statehonse in the distance. - --- ---------------- ---- SO DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. north the eye is met by Charlestown, handsomely improved, and made to minwithitsinterestingandmemorableheights ister to the health, the pleasure, and the and the navy-yard of the United States; comfort of the residents of that beautiful the towns of Chelsea, Malden, and Med- city. ford, and other villages, and the natural During the year 1849, Mr. SEARS adforests mingling in the distant horizon. dressed a letter to the mayor and alderTo the west, is a fine view of the Charles men of Boston, suggesting a plan of imriver and bay; the ancient town of Cam- provement of this waste spot, to be effectbridge, rendered venerable for the uni- ed through an amicable adjustment of versity, now above two hundred years the several proprietary interests therein. old; of the flourishing villages of Cam- This proposition of Mr. SEARS led to the bridgeport and East Cambridge, in the appointment of a commission, on the latter of which is a large glass manufac- part of the state, to examine into " the turing establishment; of the highly culti- tenure of the property, and the rights of vated towns of Brighton, Brookline, and individuals, of towns, and of the state Newton: and to the south is Roxbury, therein;" and which may be looked upon which seems to be only a continuation as an initiatory or preparatory step to its of Boston, and which is rapidly increas- future improvement. The plan of Mr. ing; Dorchester, a fine, rich, agricultural SEARS for rendering available and beautown, with Milton and Quincy beyond; tifying this basin, can be seen in the and still farther south, the Blue hills, at diagram on page 83; and its details will the distance of eight or nine miles, which be found in the following letter to the seem to bound the prospect. state commissioners,which we publish enNear the capitol; on the west, is the tire, as it embraces extracts from the letmansion-house of the eminent patriot the ter to the mayor and aldermen referred late JOHN IANCOCK, now exhibiting quite to above, and will give a clearer idea of an ancient appearance. On the same the proposed improvement than any exside, and farther west, rising from the planations from us could possibly do: rich foliage which surrounds the spectator in the common, conspicuous among " BOSTOe o Decembem 1r, 1850. many fine edifices, stands the mansion To the Hotorable the Commissioners, Jfc. of the Hon. DAVID SEARS-a gentleman "GENTLEMEN: Among the questions of large landed property, distinguished which may fairly come within your examong those remarkable men of Boston amination, under warrant from the legisto whom the literature and charities of lature, is the following, viz.: the best the country owe so much. plan, having reference to the public, for The plan proposed by Mr. SEARS for filling up the Back bay, and making that the enlargement and improvement of Bos- waste of waters available for useful purton, by reclaiming the waste spot of ter- poses. ritory back of the public garden, is one " This subject is distinctfrom the rights so intimately connected with the welfare of property, and does not implicate any and growth of that city, that our descrip- of those questions which have been so tion of the metropolis of New England ably argued before you. Yet it is of would be imperfect without a brief no- importance to us all, since it may serve tice of it. We have, when visiting Bos- as a starting-point from which the par ton, and realizing its rapid growth and ties interested may hereafter more easily crowded streets, looked upon this im- advance to an amicable adjustment; and mense basin, which, save as a daily re- it is of especial value at this stage of the cipient of the offal and impurities of matter, because the rights of all to the streets and dwelling-houses, has long area of land lying between the boundabeen lying idle (the water-power created ries of the riparian proprietors of the by it being a failure, and now disused, city of Roxbury and the boundary of the and the Water-power Company turning city of Boston being as yet unsettled, a their powerinto aland-speculation), with common plan of improvement can be a feeling of regret that it could not be more readily adopted than if said area Do~~~J iI'Ii iI~i~~~~' _ _ The State-House, Boston. ! 82 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. was definitively adjudged to be the prop- in a manner to be approved of by the erty of either. cities of Roxbury and Boston. " In addition to the above, it seems to " In my letter on the above subject, me that the peculiar tenure of this land addressed to the mayor and aldermen -if the original interest of the state is |of the city of Boston, and dated June doubtfully merged ny specific grants and 11, 1849, the following suggestions were easements to various parties-renders it made, viz.:' That the Botanic (or pubproper that the commonwealth, as soy- lic) Garden should be extended some ereign, should still extend over it a pro- hundreds of feet until it reaches a bxoad tecting arm, and so regulate its future oc- and circular avenue, enclosing within its cupation as to make it, as far as is prac- area from fifty to seventy-five acres of ticable, an ornament to the metropolis, a water: the avenue to be at least one prideto the city of Roxbury, and a scheme hundred feet wide on the top, and borworthy the name and reputation of the dered on both sides by elms and other state which grants it. ornamental trees: the water of the lake " Under this view of the subject, I have to be supplied by an aqueduct from the the honor to present to your board, and flour and other mills on the cross-dam, to make part of your report, a plan simi- and emptied into Charles river by a suflar to that I lately offered for the exarni- ficient raceway: the depth of the lake nation of the mayor and aldermen of the to be three feet below low-water mark, city of Boston, and which I beg you to and with a gravelled bottom: the flats regard as suggestive only, and'as the to be filled up to a level with Charles basis of a more detailed draught, to be street, and laid out with public squares worked out by others, for this valuable and other ornamental places, as shown improvement. on the plan. " The principal features of the reser- "' This project, if ever carried into vations proposed, and to be ordered by effect, will give to the city, at a small the state whenever the parties in interest comparative cost, a large amount of tax-the Boston Water-power Company or able property; an extensive and beautiothers-shall apply for the right to fill up fill Botanic Garden, terminated by a lake and use for building purposes the above- of pure water, equal in size, or larger, named area of land, are the following, than the present Common; and a broad namely: That a pond or lake of water, and splendid promenade, not to be surof not iess than twenty-five acres of sur- passed by any in the world. face, be for ever kept open for public "' The lake will be in itself an enduse and ornament, beginning at a point less source of amusement to the publicin the city of Boston where Boylston a fit place for evening music, for boatstreet, continued, terminates at the bonn- races and aquatic sports in the summer, dary line of the city in the receiving- for skating exhibitions in the winter, and basin of the Boston Water-power Com- for fireworks and other public -displays pany, and extending in a westerly direc- on the 4th of July and holydays. tion until it reaches the western boundary "' In the hope that these suggestions of the flats claimed by the city of Roxbu- may be of service, and if of no other use, ry: that not less than four public squares, perhaps the means of eliciting a more lying within the receiving-basin, and east- advisable mode of relieving the city of a erlyoftheboundariesoftheabove-named nuisance, and preparing the way for a riparian proprietors, and southerly and more desirable embellishment of her pubwesterly of the Neck-lots and other lands lic grounds, I have the honor of laying near the boundaries of the city of Boston, the plan before you.' of at least six hundred feet by four hun- "The same purpose which called forth dred; be laid out and for ever kept open this letter still exists, and the same wish for ornament and air: that all the prin- remains to see this improvement carried cipal streets shall be fifty feet wide: that out. no street shall be less than thirty feet " Should the state, as is believed, not wide: and that the whole shall be drained contemplate a beneficiary interest in the ~l Jl Lj. _l I'!_.__J. kl "~' ~ "';|l L "~LRANGE OF HOUSES. HOUSES. _ _ _ _ _ _;_o _ 20,3SI~txF f of__ _ _ _ _ r o- oooor ooooof j _____P ___________. t.-......-o.%.o,,, -oo ~ s,-o - a - J' 0 000 ft 14P000 FP.H R4 000OEPOO ScScors Aoveuue. R OAD LAID OUT E T EJOWN OF ROXBU RY0 20Yeot 16oo uP L;io cnr oo]100PfeMTwTiA. // 0 250 00 000 000 0So G cooft0 Sloocf ecoo e aof 0 ao n t240000e ft. ee40 00o Fh Com 4 Ione 25-0 -2 ro - -260 60 600 F N6OO3O 1 00 foooloo'4 0o00o i]e500ft, 0 P,'; 00 66_.See Mfr. Sor~s'letttothe Commissioners, =Vl-o cL 84 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. matter, but regard its right-be it more ite, and having the fiont broken by two or less-only as a means of seeing jhls- semi-circular projections, like rournd towtice done to the public, then I can not ers, extending fLom the ground to the doubt that it will readily approve the roof, and affording to the three stories principles I have laid down in reference abundant light, and commanding views to a, neral plan; and even'if it should of the beautiful and extensive scenery determine otherwise, still the advantages spread out around. of a preliminary movement of the kind In this vicinity are numerous fine and herein suggested must be obvious to ev- costly dwellings, the residences of disery thinking person who examines it. tinguished gentlemen-of the princely "With great respect, I have the honor merchants, the LAWRENCES and APPLEto be your obedient servant, TONS-of the eminent lawyers, CHOATE, "DAVID SEARS. OTIS, and MASON —-of the historian PRESS "Hon. SIMON GREENLEAF, Chairman of Commissioners COTT; and many others. Costly buildconcerning Boston Harbor and Back Bay." ings may likewise be seen on the several The advantages which will result from streets which have, chiefly within the last this improvement are incalculable. One twenty years, been built up parallel and benefit to the city will be, the creation at right angles with the north line of the of a large amount of taxable property at common, on the upper slope of Beacon little or no expense to it, except drains hill; but none surpass, in size or effect, and streets, while it will also benefit indi- the fine mansion depicted and described. vidually every real-estate owner, trader, There are several other edifices on difand resident, in Boston. Whatevertends ferent sides of the common which merit to beautify the city and render it more more particular notice than we have room healthy, has the additional tendency to to give them. Park-street church stands an increase of population and of busi- on the eastern side, and is one of the oldness, thereby enabling all to share in the est churches in the city. The Gothic maadvantages of such a scheme as is now sonic temple and St. Paul's church, on proposed. The water-works which have the south, and other places of worship recently been completed at an immense of different denominations, are seen in cost, to furnish an unfailing supply of that the neighborhood, adding variety by their important article to the whole popula- different forms and styles of architecture. tion, present a strong inducement to fam- The Iassachusetts General Hospital, ilies to move into the city, and will be with its two departments-its hospital the means of keeping multitudes firom for the sick and its asylum for the insane seeking residences in the suburban towns -is one of the lar'gest and most imp,rand villages, in preference to the city, as tant of the charitable institutions of the was formerly the case on account of the state. It was incorporated in 1811. It difficulty of obtaining wholesome water was designed to afford relief to invalids, in the latter. to reach the necessities of every class of It is characteristic of the Bostonian to persons, and to yield its benefits at the feel a just pride in the success of any lowest possible rate. The act of incormeasure which is designed to adorn his poration granted to the hospital a fee city, and make it more and more truly simple in the old Province-house estate, " the pride of New England." And this on the condition that one hundred thouproject is one that meets with so much san(l dollars was raised within ten years. favor, that it will undoubtedly at no dis- Special donations for this object, amounttant day be adopted, and thus place Bos- ing to over one hundred and forty thouton in the firont rank of her sister-cities sand dollars, were made in 1816, and the in point of health and beauty. estates were purchased where the two The mansion of Mr. SEARS, before re- departments of the institution have been ferred to, a view of which is on the oppo. located. Its endowments now amount to site page, is in a plain, massive style of about one million of dollars. The hospiarchitecture, but has a light and pleasing tal for the sick, erected in a spacious eneffect, being constructed of white gran- closure of four acres in Allen street is I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I 0f Jj p. I w'", 0o _'' Ni i~u r.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~U I.lii o i/I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I l 86 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. one of the most imposing edifices in Bos- dome at the intersection of the cross ton. The asylum for the insane is beau- twenty-nine feet above that;-making tifully situated on a rising ground within the whole height, from the sidewalk to the quiet precincts of the adjoining town the top of the dome, ninety feet. The of Somerville. Nearly fourteen thousand style of architecture is the pure Grepatients have received the benefits of the cian Doric. Each front has a portico former department of the institution, and of six fluted Doric columns, thirty-two more than thirty-threehundred have been feet high and five feet four inches in diinmates of the latter. The greatest dis- ameter, approached by a flight of fourcovery of the age —the power of produ- teen steps, which are equal in height to cing insensibility to pain-has gone forth the base of the building. The walls of from the one; while the humane treat- the building are composed of sixteen ment, and the high professional skill, three-quarter columns, four nearly full evinced in the other, have extended its columns at the corner, all of the same reputation throughout the length and the height and diameter as those of the porbreadth of the'land, and gathered within ticoes; and four antae, thirty-two feet in its walls sufferers alike from the frozen height, five feet one inch by three feet north and the sunny south. One of its eight inches at the intersection of the earliest and most active advocates was cross. The columns are each in one Dr. JOHN C. WARREN. He was appoint- piece, of highly-wrought granite, costing ed acting surgeon on its first organiza- about five thousand dollars. tion in 1817; and down to the present The building is founded on about three time, a period of thirty-four years, he has thousand piles, driven in the most thorcontinued assiduously at his arduous post. ough manner; immediately on the heads of duty and of honor. of these is laid a platform of granite, in The New England Institution for the the best hydraulic-cement mortar. The Education -of the Blind is one of the large central business-room is sixty-five largest and most prosperous establish- by sixty-eight feet, and sixty feet high to Tnents of the kind in the Union, and very the skylight of the dome, and is finished liberally endowed by public and private in a very elaborate manner in the Cordonations. It was incorporated in 1829, inthian order. There are twelve fluted and in 1833 was presented, by Thomas marble columns, three feet in diameter H. Perkins, with his valuable mansion- by twenty-nine feet high, highly wrought house in Pearl street, worth thirty thou- out of Egremont marble, having capitals sand dollars, and by individuals with fifty of Italian marble, designed and wrought thousand dollars. The Perkins mansion here, of the most chaste and classic charwas subsequently exchanged for the pres- acter. The rest of 1-he interior is finished ent edifice on Mount Washington, South in a plain and simple style, and fireproof Boston. Later donations have increased throughout, having mostly stone floors, the funds of the institution. iron doors, &c. THE CUSTOMHOUSE.-This building is The building is warmed and ventilated located at the foot of State street, be- by an apparatus, the heating being comtween the heads of Long and Central bined with the ventilation, and effected wharves, fronting east on the dock be- in part by mechanical means. tween them, and on the west fronting Faneuil-Hall Market.-This market India street, which is its principal front. is of granite, and has a centre building, The building is in the form of a cross; seventy-four and a half by fifty-five feet, the extreme length is one hundred and with wings, extending in all five hundred forty feet, extreme breadth ninety-five; and thirty-six feet, with a fine faqade at the longest arms of the cross are seven- each end, with granite columns of single ty-five feet wide, and the shortest sixty- pieces, twenty-one feet high, and weighseven feet. The base of the building ing each fourteen or fifteen tons. A row is nine feet high, the columns thirty-two of granite buildings on each side, four feet, entablature ten and two thirds feet, stories high, focr stores, is more than five pediment eight and one third feet, and hundred feet in length., _~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ — I — -~ —-: 1 The Custom House Boston. -.I-~.* _ —----— T: 88 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. Sons of Liberty 166 Sons of Liberty 1766Independence of their Country, 1776. FANE ITL HALL.-This old building, tion by the British troops and tories duso intimately associated with our revolu- ring- the siege of that town, in August, tionary history, was erected in 1742, by 1775, is copied fi'om a bas-relief reprePeter Faneuil, Esq., who presented it sentation, placed, by the Hon. DAVID to the town of Boston. It was consider- SEARS, in a niche of a block of fine buildably enlarged in 1805, and the following ings which he has recently erected upare its present dimensions: length, one on the site of an old grove of elms, of hundred feet; breadth,eighty feet; height, which this tree was one. This sculptured three stories; great hall in the second representation is placed exactly over the story, used for public meetings, seventy- spotwhere the Libertyv-Tree stood. WxVhy six feet square, and twenty-eight high; can not the patriotic feeling and the provhall for military trainings, in the third ident care, which prompted this act on story, seventy-eight feet by thirty. The the part of Mr. SEARS, be followed in basement story is devoted to stores. A rescuing from oblivion others of the mabroad staircase, entered from the east ny localities so interesting and so worthy fiont, leads to the second and third sto- of being held in perpetual remembrance, ries. The great hall has galleries on from their association with events during three sides, supported by Doric columns; the most trying period of our country's two rows of Ionic columns support the history? The silent though no less cerceiling. Stuart's portrait of Washing- tainly destructive hand of decay, and the ton, and a portrait of its funder, orna- improvements required by the rapid inment this fine hall. crease of population and settlement, in THE LIBERTY-TREE.-The above en- both country and city, are fast sweeping graving of the Liberty-Tree, so famous away every vestige by which the localiin the revolutionary annals of Boston, as ties so reverenced are recognised; and it appeared just previous to its destruc- he who sets up any landmarks by which 1:=~-== —=-I=L —- -------- -= _- ---- fl~~ I~~~~~ ~ ~~~~~' — _; i. — ar — =F — -=ie - ~__ _ ii,.;g _= j. - Ad: as —r ----— ~' —~=rt_ ___ s ~~~~~~~~~~~~L ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Ylei Hall. —--- - - ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ - C C 90 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. they may be known, as Mr. SEARS has of Boston,' and from the public records done on the site of the Liberty-Tree, of 1775. deserves and will receive the grateful "On the 22d of March, in 1765, the thanks of posterity. king of Great Britain gave his'assent to The following letter from Mr. SEARS the stamp-act. This act was extremely to the mayor and city council of Boston, odious to the people, and the colonies is so replete with interesting incidents regarding it as'taxation without repreconnected with the history of this tree, sentation,' and therefore' tyranny,' were that we can not repress the inclination determined to oppose it. The citizens to place it on record in the pages of this of Boston had some time before (in 1761) volume. We take it fiom a copy print- resisted, upon the same principle, anothed by order of the city council of Bos- er tyrannous act, called' writs of assistton, for the use of the members of the ance;' and the feeling, though somewhat city government:- allayed, was still warm in their bosoms, BEACON STREET, BOSTON, "and ready to be brought into action. Sept. 29, 1849. " The colonies had earnestly and sep"To the Honorable the Mayor arately remonstrated against the stampand Aldermen of the City of Boston:- act. They looked upon it as the brass "GENTLEMEN: I have the honor to collar of servitude to be riveted on their inform you that the old buildings at the necks, to mark them for the born serfs corner of Essex and Washington streets of George III.; and this they would not have been removed, and that an exten- submit to. Boston, in particular, showed sive block of warehouses is being erected a strong opposition to the act, and rein their places, to cover the whole front solved at all hazards to maintain her libof my estate on these two streets. erties and the privileges of the charter "As this site is somewhat remarkable of Massachusetts; though she well knew in the history of Boston-it having sus- that, being no favorite in England, the tained, and for more than a century nour- vengeance of that mighty power would ished, a splendid American elm, known be chiefly turned against her in any conand venerated - as' Liberty- Tree'- the test that might ensue. Her citizens, howpresent seems a fit occasion to bring it ever, undismayed in their purpose, while to your notice. they felt that in the coming struggle were "The tree was supposed to have been staked their property and their lives, did planted in 1646, and was cut down by not hesitate to venture both against unthe British in 1775. La Fayette, in his lawful oppression. In this sentiment the visit to Boston, said,' The world should whole population were united; and the never forget the spot where once stood talents, the property, and the religion Liberty-Tree, so famous in your annals.' of Boston stood shoulder to shoulder in "In accordance with this sentiment, the subsequent terrific struggle between I have ventured to address this letter to might and right. No boastful threatenyou-to make record of certain facts, ings marked their course, but on they and to note the changes connected with went as men-cool, determined, and inthis historic corner. And, believing that flexible, straightforward to their endI shall respond to the general feeling of the independence of their country. my fellow-citizens on this subject, I have "In the early history of Boston, it apcaused to be sculptured, in bas-relief, a pears that'near the head of Essex street representation of this celebrated tree, formerly stood a grove of those majestic with appropriate inscriptions, and have elms, of the American species, which inserted it in that part of the building form one of the greatest ornaments in which fronts on Washington street, and the landscapes of our country. This directly over the spot where the tree it- grove had obtained the name of Hanoself formerly stood. ver square, or neighborhood of the elms.' " The following facts and reminiscen- j "Under one of these trees, and nearly ces 1 have gleaned from various authori- opposite to the present Boylston market, ties-principally from Snow's'History the people of Boston assembled on the DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 91 14th day of August, 1765, and exhibited it was burning, and shouting to the crowd the first plain evidence of resistance to these words: " Behold the smoke ascends the oppressive course of their misguided to heaven to witness between the isle of fatherland. A single act of riot —the Britain and an injured people!" Three pulling down of a shed, supposed to cheers were then given, and in a few have been erected for a stamp-office- minutes every man, woman, and child, marked this meeting, and for a time over- ietired fi'ron the street without the least shadowed the holiness of their purpose. disorder and in silence.' It proved, however, to be but the intoxi- "Oil the 15th of the following May, cation of a moment, and was never re- news was received of the repeal of the peated.* The building was afterward, stamp-act. The joy of the inhabitants with an apology., paid for. The name of Boston was great. The bells were of' Liberty-Tree' was then given to this rung from every church, and a cannon noble elm, and friom that time it became was fired under' Liberty-Tree.' The' a sort of idol to the people.' Law and 19th was appointed a day of general reorder, charter rights and property, were joicing;'Liberty-Tree' was decorated nourished at its roots, and liberty ripened wiih flags and colors, and at the windows under its spreading branches. On the of the houses near it were clustered the 14th of February, 1766, it was pruned daughters of our distinguished citizens, in the best manner, agreeably to a vote dressed in gay attire, and adorned with passed by the' Sons of Liberty,' an as- garlands of flowers. In the evening'firesociation long before known as a club works were everywhere played off —the of gentlemen, united for mutual protec- air was filled with rockets, the ground tion, and to resist oppression, and which with beehives and serpents. The gentry first assumed that name, and called upon gave elegant entertainments, and Mr. the patriotic citizens of Boston to join Hancock treated the people with a pipe them, in the early part of the preceding of Madeira.' On the common, the Sons December. of Liberty erected a magnificent pyra"The 20th of February of this 1766 mid, illuminated with variegated lamps, had been agreed upon for burning one and all was bright and joyous. At about of the stamped papers in the principal midnight, at a signal given, and by beat towns in each of the colonies; and in Bos- of drum, the inhabitants quietly retired ton the ceremony was conducted with to their respective dwellings, the lights great decency and order. It also is re- were put out, and the town was hushed corded that, on the 24th, a vessel having in its usual silence. arrived from Jamaica with stamped clear- " These rejoicings had been ushered ances, the' Sons of Liberty' immediately in by a subscription for liberating all the sent an order to one of their members to poor persons confined in jail for debt, goanddemandintheir namesthose marks and thus enable them fieely to partake of creole slavery. The person to whom of the general joy. it was directed went to the vessel, and, " The ministers of religion also bore being told that the master had gone to their part in these scenes; and the serthe customhouse, followed him there- mons of Drs. Mayhew, Chauncey, and' when, upon the above order being others, were printed. shown, the stamped clearance was given "In the month of August, 1776, this up. It was then carried to King (now celebrated tree was cut down'by the State) street, and publicly burned, a Son enemies of liberty and America, headed of Liberty standing by the paper while by General Gage.' A party, armed with axes, made an attack upon it, and, after " The Sons of Liberty had no part in the destruc- much labor, levelled it with the ground. tion of property at Lieutenant-Governor Hutchinson's A Son of Liberty, at Cambridge, gave house. Their rallying-cries were' Liberty and Prop- notice erty"-" Law and Order"-but in this case they w ere public notice of its fall, and added these overpowered by a mob of misguidel men, led on by prophetic words:' But, be it known to a rabble of boys and thieves. They always lamented this infamous band of traitors, that the the act as a disgrace cast upon the cause of freedom. this i nfamous band of taitr, that the -ED. grand American tree of liberty, planted 92 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. in the centre of the united colonies of to the city of Boston ten millions of galNorth America, now flosurishes with un- lons a day, of the purest and best water, rivalled beauty, and bids fair, in a short decided by chymists to be equal to that time, to afford under its wide-spreading of the Croton of New York. branches a safe and happy retreat for all PUBLIC SCHOoLS. — The educational the sons of liberty, however numerous system of Massachusetts has been noand dispersed.' ticed on a previous page. The sums " What was then prophecy, has now spent in the city of Boston alone foi pubbecome history. lic instruction-larger than in all Great e'Very respectfuilly, Britain-are almost entirely a voluntary "Your obedient, bumble servant, offering. The laws of the commonwealth, "DAVID SEARS." even as early as 1647, it is true,lrequire the snpport of public schools in all the The Athencaum, in Beacon street, is towns within its jurisdiction; but a sinopen daily to strangers introduced by gZe school will meet the demands of the members, and contains a valuable libra- law in most towns; and in Boston itself, ry of about forty thousand volumes, and three schools and three teachers only about fourteen Ihousand coins and med- would meet the intent of the statute: tNo als. In the rear is the gallery of fine of these must be teachers "' competent to arts, with a collection of statues, paint- instruct child ren in orthography, reading, ings, &c. The Massachusetts Historical wrliling,English grammar, arithmetic, and Society's library is in Tremont street. good behavior;" and the other must be THEATRES.-The theatres of Boston "a master o)f competent ability and good are limited in number, and rather ordi- morals, who shall, in addition to the nary in appearance. They are as fol- branches of learning before mentioned, lotws: 1. The National theatre, corner give instruction in the history of the U'niof Portland and Travers streets. 2. The ted States, book-keeping, surveying, geBoston theatre, formerly known as the ometry, and algebra; the Latin and Greek Odeoi, in Federal street. 3. The How- languages, general history, rhetoric, and ard Alhenleum, in Howard street. Kim- logic." These three teachers might cost bhall's museum, in Tremont street, is also the city, at the present rate of salaries, open fr theatrical performances. about.four thousand five hundred dollars, BOSTON WATER-WORKS.-The Co- with the expense of interest for houses chituate aqueduct for the introduction added; in all, perhaps, seven thousand (,f pure anid wholesome water into the dollars. Ilst'ead, however, of being satcity was completed in 1848. The cost isfied to fulfil the letter of the excellent of construction was over three millions law, the citizens of Boston take pride in of dollars. The water is brought in an supp)orting a Latin schoolan Engli.sh high oval brick aqueduct, above six feet in school, twv;enty-two grammar-schools, aid height, abut fourteen and a half miles some twohundred piimary schools, with a firom the Cochituate lake to Brookline, corps of three hundred and seventy teachwhere it discharges itself into a reservoir ers, whose combined salaries amount to of more than twenty acres in extent. a hundred and seventy-five thousand dolFrom Brookline the water is forced by lars. Add to this a million d(ollars vested its own pressure through pipes of thirty in schoo,lhouses, besides apparatus and and thirty-five inches in diameter, to the ilncidental expenses of superintendence; two reservoirs in the city. The one o)n fuel, &c., and the sacrifice of property flor Mount Washington, at South Boston. has the good of posterity stands forth without a superfices of seventy thousand, and the a pa rallel inl the Untion. other on Beacon hill of thirly-eight thou- Boston Asylum and Farm-School.sand feet. The latter contains, when full, In 1813 several gentlemen formed a socithree millions of gallons.'his reservoil ety for the relief and education of such enables them to have a fountain on the boys as might be found destitute of pacommon, which throws a jet to a gleat rental and friendly superintendence. In height. The two reservoirs will delive- February, 1814, an act of incorporation l. j DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 93 was granted them, and the society was pations and employments of the boys vaorganized, with the title of the " Boston ry with the season. In spring, summer, Asylum for Indigent Boys." For many and autumn, the larger boys work upon years it was located at the corner of Sa- the garden and farm. The younger boys lem and Charter streets, in the house for- have small gardens of their own, which merly occupied by Governor Phips. On afford them recreation when released the 9th of June, 1835, the boys, fifty-two firom school. In the winter, most of them in number, were removed to Thompson's attend school. Their library contains island, which is within the limits of the? about five hundred volumes. city, about four miles fiom the city-hall. BRIDGEs. — Some of the most striking A number of gentlemen in Boston were objects in the neighborhood& of Boston desirous that an institution should be es- are the bridges which lead from it to tablished there, to which children either various points. There are no less than already corrupted, or beyond parental seven principal ones, besides several control, might be sent without the inter- branches. The expense at which they vention of a legal conviction and sen- have been constructed, and are kept in tence; and in which such employments repair, is very great; and they fiurnish might be pursued by the children as great facilities for strangers desirous of would make the institution, in the strict- making excursions to the surrounding est sense, a school of industry. A plan country. The Milldam bridge, or Westfor this object was submitted to a few ern avenue, leading to Brookline, is one gentlemen, by whom it was approved and a half miles long, and a part of the and matured; and a meeting was held way one hundred feet wide. in the hall of the Tremont bank on the CHARLESTOWN was settled in the year 27th of January, 1832, when a board of 1628. It is the oldest town in Middlesex directors was chosen. Subscription pa- county, and one of the oldest in the state. pers were opened, and twenty-three thou - It derives its name fiom King Charles I., sand dollars were soon obtained. In the the reigning sovereign of England at that summer of 1833 following, Thompson's time. The Indian name of the settlement island, containing one hundred and forty was Mishawam. acres, was purchased for the objects of Charlestown is situated on a peninsula, the institution; and a building is now with the harbor on the east; the Mystic completed there, which, besides ample river and Chelsea on the north; Charles accommodations for the officers of the river on the south; and on the west Somestablishment, is quite sufficient for the erville, with which it is connected by a charge of more than three hundred chil- narrow strip of land called " The Neck." dren. A suggestion having been made With Malden on the northwest, Charlesof the expediency of connecting the pro- town is connected by a bridge 2,420 feet posed farm-school with the asylum for in length, opened for travel on the 23d indigent boys, conferences were held be- of September, 1788. A bridge one mile tween the directors of these institutions; in length leads from the navy-yard due and in March, 1835, they were united liorth to Chelsea This was foi merlythe under the style of the "Boston Asylum great thoroughfare fiom Boston to Saand Farm-School." lem, via Chelsea and Lynn. Now the The objects of the present institution bridge is used for local travel only, the are to rescue from the ills and the temp- Eastern railroad being the usual means tations of poverty and neglect, those who of conveyance to Lynn, Salem, Newbuhave been left without a parent's care; ryport, Nahant, thence to Portsmouth, to reclaim from moral exposure those Portland, &c. who, are treading the paths of danger; At Charlestown are the stateprison, and to offer to those whose only training conducted on the improved plan; Bunwould otherwise have been in the walks ker-hill monument; the United States of vice, if not of crime, the greatest bles- navy-yard, with dry-dock, ship-houses, sing which New England can bestow &c.; and the M'Lean insane asylum. upon her most favored sons. The occu- Bunker-Hill Monument.- On the 17th 94 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. of June, 1825, the fiftieth anniversary of the United States. They are generally the memorable battle of Bunker's hill, the residences of a number of the most the corner-stone of this monument was opulent citizens during the pleasant sealaid in an angle of the old redoubt on sons, and many of the buildings are fine Breed's hill, an inferior eminence behind and expensive. The grounds are also Charlestown. The base, a mass of four- frequently laid out with great taste and teen thousand tons' weight, is laid thir- highly cultivated; so that no stranger teen feet deep, and has six courses of who has leisure should fail to take a stone to the surface, the first of which is circuit through them for a few miles. fifty feet on each side. Above this a pyr- There are several manufacturing estabamidal obelisk, thirty feet square, rises lishments in this vicinity, among which tapering, two hundred and thirteen feet Waltham is conspicuous. four inches on the ground, and fifteen Nahant, fourteen miles northeast from feet at the top. It is composed of eighty Boston, is a very pleasant and favorite courses of stone, each two feet eight inch- resort during the warm months, being es thick. A winding stone staircase in the a fine situation, open to the sea, of easy inside leads to the summit, whence the access by land and water, and furnished view is fine and highly interesting. The with several houses for the accommoda-.whole is built of Quincy granite. The tion of visiters, particularly a large holargest block in it is said to be eleven tel. A steamboat runs thither in the feet long, two broad, and two feet eight summer, and there is a fine road which inches high, with a weight of ten tons. passes round the bay, through the town After the battle of Bunker's hill, the of Lynn (celebrated for the manufacture continental troops were drawn in a more of shoes), along Lynn beach, and then complete line around the town of Boston, turns off to the promontory of Nahant, which was still in possession of the Brit- which is a point of rough rocks of conish, and numerous intrenchments may siderable elevation. yet be traced out on most of the hills in The passage in the steamboat affords the vicinity; but it was not till General a fine view of Boston bay, with the city; Washington had succeeded in occupy- Dorchester heights on the south; Buning Dorchester heights, which command ker's and Breed's hills on the northwest; the harbor and town friom the southeast, and many other very interesting objects. that the British forces embarked in their Among the islands which form the deships and evacuated the place. fence of the harbor, is that which conDorchester heights were occupied on tains Castle William, besides one or two the night of March 4, 1776. Eight hun- other fortified ones-Rainsford island, dred men formed the van; then followed which has the marine hospital, part of carriages, and twelve hundred pioneers it quite elevated, but containing only a under General Thomas, three hundred few acres; and another on which is the carts of fascines and gabions, and guns farm-school, an interesting institution in the rear. Two forts were formed by for boys. Salt is made in Boston bay, ten o'clock at night-one toward the and windmills are sometimes used to city, and the other toward Castle island. pump the water. Preparations were made for an attack The ground near the hotel at Nahant by the British, and for defence by the has been laid out and ornamented with Americans; but the weather prevented taste. The cupola on the top commands the designs of the former, consisting of a fine water scene; and during the prevten thousand men, who, after pillaging alence of a strong wind from the sea, the town, and providing for the removal the waves are high and magnificent, of fifteen hundred resident loyalists, em- breaking wildly against the rocks. barked for New York, March 17, leaving The baths are at a short distance from behind a quantity of ammunition, &c. the hotel, and are quite commodious, VILLAGEs.-TThe vicinity of Boston furnishing one of the chief attractions presents a succession of villages, prob- of the place. ably not to be paralleled for beauty in The Syren's Grotto is a remarkable 1~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ P~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_ _ _ _____ It lo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ it ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~1 i;c~ - I =1 __ _ _ _ _ _ _=~i~ - |- - Bu H Bunker Hill Monument. 96 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. cavity in the r.cks, about a quarter f j more southern region) and the want of a mile from the hotel; it has been cu- provisions. Nothing but the assistance riously worn out by the waves. There of Massasoit, under the providence of' are several other caverns of a similar God, preserved them fron- extinction. character, produced in the course of The Boston and Lowell Railroad, ages by the constant attrition of the is twenty-six and a half miles in length. water. The Spouting Horn is a hole in The cars start from North Boston, the rocks, on the opposite side, where and pass in view of the ruins of the the water is thrown up in the air at par- Charlestown nunnery, on Mount Benticular times of tide. The rocks are of edict, which was burned by a mob some granite, porphyry, epidote, &c., and fur- years ago on a charge of the ill treatnish pebbles of jasper. Pulpit rock, on ment of some of the nuns. Summit of the south, is a singular object; its top the road, one hundred and twenty-five is almost inaccessible. The rude shores feet; maximum grade, ten feet per mile; and the smooth beach can be test exam- least radius, three thousand feet. More ined at lowtide; but those who are fond than one half is straight. It was opened of sublime scenes should omit no oppor- in June, 1835. tunity to visit them when the wind is This road extends to Concord, fiom high, particularly in a moonlight night. which place, also, several roads, now in PLYMOUTH.-This place is thirty-six process of construction, are to extend to miles south-southeast from Boston. It Portsmouth and north into Canada. is highly interesting on account of its LOWELL.- Like many other towns in history, being the site of the first set- this vicinity, this place has grown fiom tlement made by the New England pil- a very small beginning. Thousands of grims, on the 22d December, 1620. A persons now living in the city and surmass of granite rock is still shown, on rounding country, well remember when which those who first landed stepped; there were not ten men in it. The main it has been divided, and a part of it re- canal, which supplies water for turning mains buried near the shore in its nat- the machinery of numerous mills on the ural location, while the upper part is banks of the Merrimack, was constructed removed into the centre of the village. in 1793, simply as a boat and raft chanA handsome building was erected here nel around the falls. The finest timber l in 1820, in which the New England so- in New England was then brought down cietv hold their annual celebrations of the Concord and Merrimack, the juncthat interesting era in the history of the tion of which rivers takes place at Lowcountry. Burying hill, which rises near ell; and thence, to the ocean, they go at hand, is the spot where a small fi'rt by the name of the Merrimack. The was erected by the settlers, and where construction of this canal soon attracted the graves of several of them are still to the attention of capitalists, the result of be found. The banks of the brook south which was, that one mill after another of the hill were the scene of the first was erected; and from a little, meager conference with Massasoit, a friendly village, Lowell has grown into a powand faithful Indian chief, from whom erful city, with vast ranges of magnifithe name of the bay, and subsequently cent granite and brick factories stretchthat of the state, was derived. Manlumet ing from river to river, and from street point is a promontory on the south side to street, resembling huge towers, and of the harbor; and a small island on the striking the stranger with wonder, suropposite side of it was the spot where prise, and admiration. The population the pilgrims first placed their feet on is about forty thousand. shore in this vicinity, after having pre- The value of raw cotton used up viously landed on Cape Cod. here annually is about four hundred The young and feeble colony suffered thousand dollars; Awool, about one hunextreme distresses here from the severity dred thousand dollars. The value of of the climate (against which they were the articles manufactured in all the facunprepared, as they had stiled for' a tories, large and small, is about thirteen ~q:aomX[~ jo _._e!&.: ~ ~~~~~~; —~---— ~-~ -'[~-;3;,m~ILL~;~~lK/~~I-=~~rI~~=~ —-,z_, ~ -.=~ —-_ ~ 98 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. millions of dollars per annum. The Stockbridge, on the New York line, sixamount of money annually paid out to ty-two miles further; and thence on to the operatives is one million, eight hun- Albany. dred thousand dollars. The operatives, The Boston and Portsmouth or Eastboth male and female, get higher wages ern Railroad extends from East Boston than any other persons of their class in through Lynn, Salem (where is a tunnel the United States, or perhaps in the under part of the town), Ipswich, and world. Their intelligence is also great- Newburyport (forty miles), to Portser, and their morals are better. They mouth, N. H., fifteen and a half miles. have two hundred and fifty thousand It is continued to Portland, Me., through dollars' worth of stock in the various Wells, Kennebunkport, and Saco; and companies, which they have purchased thence to Bangor, one hundred and thirwith their earnings in the mills: thirty ty-two miles further. thousand dollars in railroad stock, a MOUNT AUBURN CEMETERY.-This is pretty large amount in bank stock, and the first of the large rural buryingtwo hundred thousand dollars deposited grounds which have since become so in the savings bank. This money they common in this country. It occupies a have made by their industry. Many of' large extent of uneven land, well adaptthem have fine houses. A large num- ed in form, as well as in the nature of ber of families are dependent on the its soil and the abundant and varied earnings of their daughters in these fac- growth of forest-trees which it bears, to tories. Two nieces of Daniel Webster, the solemn and interesting object to and two of Edward Everett; are grad- which it is devoted. It is surrounded uates of these palaces of the poor. The by a strong and high fence, and the front girls publish a periodical of original presents a high wall, with a fine gateway matter, written entirely by the opera- of granite. At the entrance, avenues tives. Over two hundred young ladies, lead off, on either side, through shady who labored in these factories and thus groves; and here several of the prinearned the money with which they ed- cipal monuments are first presented to ucated themselves, are now instructors view, particularly that of the distinof youth, and some of them in the high- guished phrenologist, Spurzheim, who est female seminaries. died at Boston on his visit to the United The Boston and Worcester Railroad, States. The first interment made at forty-foeur and a half miles, extends from Mount Auburn was that of Hannah the shore of Boston harbor, under WVash- Adams, the celebrated writer of the hisington street, across the city by a via- tory of the Jews. duct; over Charles river, on an embank- The grounds are laid out with great ment six hundred and eighty feet long, taste, and are gradually filling up with and through a cut in granite five hun- tombs and graves. Many private tombs dred feet long and thirty feet deep; are seen on every side, constructed in a along Charles river; through Brighton great variety of styles; and the avenues, to Needham; and through Natick, Fra- roads, and paths, which branch out in mingham, Westborough, and Grafton, all directions, lead the visiter through to Worcester, five miles east of which scenes of great variety, among hills of is the summit, five hundred and fifty feet various elevations, and by the borders above tide. There is a cut through slate of ponds, every step bringing to view thirty-seven feet deep. Less than one some net and sadbut appropriate object. third of a mile on this route is level; Flowers are often mingled with the maximum grade, thirty feet; least rad- foliage and shade of funereal trees and ius, nine hundred and fifty-four feet. shrubs; and many touching emblems and The Great Western Railroad (a con- inscriptions are interspersed, on which tinuation of the above road) leads from the mind may dwell with affecting and Worcester to Springfield, fifty-four miles, profitable reflections. through Charlton, South Brookfield, Pal- LEXINGTON, Worcester county, is remer, and Wilbraham, and on to West markable as the place where the first _ ~~~~~~~~__i 0 CD CD 100 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. blood was shed in the revolutionary war. make a conspicuous figure from different On the 19th of April, 1776, General parts of the surrounding country, and Gage sent a body of troops from Bos- command a view of great extent, boundton to seize a powderhouse at Concord ed on the west by the Temple hills in belonging to the colony; and the inhab- New Hampshire, backed by ihe Moitants were warned of his design by an nadnoc about sixty miles off, and on the express d.spatched by the Hon. Joseph south by the Blue hills. A small elWarren. The militia were called out, evation near by affords a view of the but, the alarm subsiding, they were dis- Atlantic ocean, from about Newburymissed, with orders, however, to hold port to Cape Ann, with part of Salem; themselves in readiness. The enemy and in the northwest is a distant peak, unexpectedly made their appearance at which is supposed to be Ascutney, in half-past 4 o'clock, coming on at a quick Vermont. step, within a mile and a quarter of the The academical buildings are distinchurch. The alarm-guns were fired, guished by the names of Phillips hall, drums beat, and fifty or sixty militiamen Bartlett hall, and the chapel. In the assembled on the parade. The British upper part of the latter is a library. brigade halted about one hundred and The professors' houses are opposite, twenty yards from the church to load, with a spacious green intervening beand then passing the east end of the tween the seminary and the street; and building, discovered the Americans, who there is also a large inn. The academy were ordered at the moment by their is not connected with the seminary. commander, Captain Parker, to disperse BROOKFIELD.-This was one of the and take care of themselves, but not to most early settled towns in this part of fire. As some of them loitered, the the country, dating as far back as NoBritish troops rushed toward them, huz- vember 10, 1665; and for several years zaing. Major Pitcairn fired a pistol at the only towns in the west were Hadley, them when about thirty yards distant, Northampton, &c., while there was no after they had been called "rebels," and white settlement between it and Canordered them to lay down their arms ada. The stagecoach passes over along and disperse. Another officer, who was hill in West Brookfield, which commands within a few yards of them, then bran- an extensive prospect, and this is the dished his sword and ordered the troops place where the settlement began. A to " fire," which was obeyed at the sec- few yards west of a white house on the ond order; and the fire being returned, north side of'the road was a house built it was kept up on the dispersing men for defence, which, though of but little until they had all disappeared. Eight strength, was called the fort. In August, were killed and ten wounded. (Gen- 1675, this place was suddenly beset by eral Gage falsely stated that the British several hundred savages. The inhabwere first fired upon.) itants had been imposed upon by the After the regulars had fired a volley appearance of friendliness shown by from the green behind the church, and the Hassenemesit Indians, and while given three cheers, they proceeded to on their way to their fort, a few miles Concord. On their return, being hard distant, were ambushed and pursued, so pressed by sharpshooters, they burned that they barely escaped. The house three houses, a shop, and a barn, killed in which they all assembled was besieged three more men and wounded one. and several times in imminent danger. ANDOVER is a small village, situated On one occasion a cart loaded with hemp, on high ground, twenty miles from Bos- &c., and set on fire, was pushed up to ton. It is remarkable for the Phillips the house with long poles, when a suldacademy and the theological seminalry, den shower of rain came up in time to which are three fourths of a mile east extinguish the flames. The fortunate from it, on the summit of the ascent. arrival of Captain Mosely with a small The buildings belonging to the semin- troop of horsemen delivered the inhabary: (which we have before described) itants, and drove away the savages. All DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 101 the houses having been burned, and the buildings containing the workshops for war soon beginning to rage with vio- manufacturing small arms, the arsenal, lence, the settlement was evacuated. the barracks, &c., are surrounded by a The old well still remains which be- high wall. The number of workmen longed to the fort or blockhouse; and required, which is about two hundred there is a rock in a wall, on the oppo- and sixty, has a favorable effect on the site side of the road, firom behind which business and prosperity of the place. an Indian shot one of the men who had About eighteen thousand muskets are come out to draw water duriing the made here annually, or sixty a day. siege. The manufactories on Mill river, a little The present village is at the bottom south of the armory, are various, and,)f the hill, and is pleasantly situated, well worthy of observation. with several ponds in the neighborhood, The town is ornamented with many which, with the fish and fowl they fur- fine elms and other trees; and there are nished, were the principal attraction of two very handsome churches. It was the savages, who were very numerous originally considered within the limits in this tract of country. These ponds of Connecticut colony, but at length inI give rise to the Quabaug river, which, corporated with Massachusetts. A tribe after a course of some miles, takes the of Indians lived for some years on Fort name of Chicopee, and joins the Con- hill; but, being won over to King Philnecticut at Springfield. ip's party, in 1675, they assumed a hosWORCESTER is one oftthepleasantest tile air, fired upon some of the inhabitcities in New England. The country ants who were going to their fort, and around it is rich and variegated, and the burned a part of' the town. dwellings have an air of elegance which In 1786, during the rebellion of Shays, does great credit to the taste as well as he attacked the armory, at the head of the wealth of its inhabitants. Brick is a strong party of undisciplined men. extensively used in building. The court- General Shepard, who had command at house, bank, &c., stand on the princi- the place, attempted to dissuade them pal street, and east of it the county- from the attempt, and finally drove them house, and the building of the American off by firing twice. The first shot over Historical society; this institution was their heads dispersed the raw troops, formed for the purpose of preserving and the second drove off the remainder everything relating to the history, tra- (about two hundred revolutionary solditions, &c., of the country. The state diers), who did not desist until they had lunatic asylum, conducted on the hu- lost a few of their men. This was the mane systemn of moral treatment, is very first check the insurrection received, successful, which was put down without much subWatchusett hills, sixteen miles west- sequent trouble. northwest of Worcester, and fifty-two Wilbraham, seven or eight miles west west by north of Boston, are estimated from Springfield, contains a Wesleyan at nearly three thousand feet above the academy. sea, and ascended by an easy path. The TVest Springfield has a fine street, spectator looks down on a surrounding shaded with large elms, and containing scene of wooded mountains, with ponds some handsome houses. It is twentyand farms below them, and a view over six miles from Hartford, and about sevcultivated and inhabited regions. enteen from Northampton. There is SPRINGFIELD is a flourishing town, a fine view fiom the road on the brow standing at the foot of a high hill, the of a hill a little north of the town, near side of which is ornamented with fine a church, which overlooks the river and buildings, the residences of some of the an extent of country on each side, with wealthier inhabitants, and the top occu- Mount Tom and Mount Holyoke in i pied by the United States armory. This fiont. establishment occupies a large space of South Hadley Falls.-The village and I ground, and commands a fine view. The locks are on the east side of the river. ' —L= —"L —---— - __ _ _ C —- __ L-n. ----------------- ------------- -------------------------- -- 1=====_===-===-=~===== —--- - __ --- -------------- --— _- — -- -' —--— ;L;L —-------------- ---- ---- __ - _ —- —----------— = —- —-------- -- --- - -- =-~ ----— —- _ -— -T -- -~- -------- - -- --- 1' —-- - L --- ---- -~ _ -- — ~- --—; -- ---.. -- -- C_C Ir;E r View of Mount Tom and Monnt Holyolre. I -II ii -- ---- --- -- DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 103 The whole fall of the river at South The country southeast, seen from its sumHadley is fifty-two feet, but at the lower mit, is undulating, and the soil generally falls only thirty-two. There is a canal poor; yet several villages are discovered two and a half miles long on the east at a distance, particularly South Hadley, side of the river, cut through a slate- which lies immediately below. Southrock for a considerable distance, and in wardly is seen Connecticut river, retiring some places very deep. There is a fer- under the shade of Mount Tom, whiry here, which is safe, but the water tened below by the South Hadley falls, runs very swiftly. beyond which is the hill at Springfield The Mount Holyoke Female Semina- the river makes several turns, and on ry, at South Hadley, combines a practi- the horizon are two very distant peaks, cal domestic education with intellectual which are supposed to be East and West instruction. rocks at New Haven, about seventy miles For several miles before reaching distant. Northeast is seen Monadnock Mount Tom from the south, the road mountain, in New Hampshire. North, runs along the banks of the river; the the view is up the charming valley of the river makes an abrupt turn some miles Connecticut, bordered by distant ranges above, running between Mount Tom qa of hills and mountains, varied by a few the south and Mount Holyoke on the isolated peaks, covered with the richest north; and when the scene opens again, coat of vegetation, and scattered with vilit discloses a charming and extensive lages and innumerable farmhouses. The plain, formed of the meadows on the river makes a beautiful serpentine course river's bank, and evidently once the site fir'om where it first appears at the foot of of a large lake, when the water was Sugarloaf mountain and Mount Toby, unrestrained by the barrier between the til it reaches the village of Hadley, which mountains. This plain is one of the liel in full view; and then taking a bold richest, and by far the most extensive sweep to the west, and flowing four and and beautiful, on the river. a half miles, it returns to the end of that NORTHAMPTON is situated at the west- village, only a mile distant from where ern side of the plain, a mile fiom the it first meets it! The whole peninsula river, and is a favorite place of resort is rich and fertile, and covered with culfor travellers. It is one of the most tivated fields of wheat, corn, grass, &c., beautiful of the New England villages, without being disfigured by fences-and and is surrounded by a charming coun- is the richest sight upon the river, partry, and lies near to Mount Holyoke, ticularly when viewed in connexion with which commands a view of the whole. -the scene immediately below, where the The streets are irregular, but some of river flows on almost under our feet, and them shady and delightful in summer, the western shore presents the extensive being also ornamented with many neat Northampton meadows, a mile wide; folhouses. It is a place of much business, lowing the current with the eye in the and the soil makes valuable farms. west-southwest, it forms a still more reRound Hill is a beautiful eminence markable peninsula, although one of injust west of the town. On the eastern ferior size-the Hockanum bend, being declivity of the hill stands the house of a turn measuring three miles in circuit, the Stoddard family, an ancestor of which while the isthmus was only forty-six rods was a man of talent and influence. In across. This has been cut through by a King street, toward the northeast from flood. In the compass of this view, nuthat spot, stood the house in which Pres- merous village spires are seen, with level ident Edwards, senior, lived —President fields, orchards, and gardens, almost numEdwards, junior, and Dr. Dwight were berless, and the whole scene is bounded born —and David Brainerd died: his with mountainous ridges. grave is in the burying-ground. Northampton is seen about west-northMount Holyoke i' about eight hundred west, with Round hill; and, toward the feet high, and there is a good carriage- right, the top of Saddle mountain, in the road for the greater part of the way up. I distance. There are also others, still 104 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. farther north, particularly Haystack and large; which, with the appearance of the Baremountaints. More than thilty church houses, gives the place an air of substansteeples may be counted here at one view tial agricultural wealth. The cattle are by taking advantage of different kinds of bought, stabled, and fatted, whence they weather. are chiefly sent by railroad to Brighton. In point of history, that part of the AMHiRST, situIted on elevated ground, Connecticut valley immediately under is five miles from Hadley, and off the rivthe eye belongs to the third division of er toward the northeast. settlements, cal'ing Plymouth and Mas- Amherst College, in this town, ranks sachusetts bay the first, and Windsor, among the most respectable in New EngHartfo!d, Wethersfield, &c., the second. landl. The situation occupied by the [Northampton, Hadley, and Hatfield, buildings is pleasant, commanding a rich, were settled in 1653, and remained the extensive, and varied view, partly over frontier posts in this direction till af:er the meadows of Connecticut river, with Philip's war, duriog which time they mountains seen in different directions. suffer-ed severely firom constant alarm, The relircd situation is highly favor'able and the loss of inhabitants. The Indians ti, study and good order, as its elevation who had sold the lands on which the and pure air are conducive to health. towns were built, had each a spot as- l'he three college buildings, one of signed them within a short distance of which is seen, in all its length, on the the palisades with which the new settlt- right side of our print, are fine, substanmeuits were surrounded, and lived in tial edifices. That which is most dispeace and good faith until excited by tincily visible is four stories high, with a Philip; after which all the towns were Doric portico projecting fi'om the midat different times attacked by them, and die, and a dome rising from the centre some of them repeatedly. During the of the roof. Toward the left aie the French wars, on May 13, 1704, the In- new buildings, lately erected for the dians fell upon a liitle settlement at the cabinet of natural history and the astrofoot of Mount Tom, and killed twenty nomical observatory; while a cluster of persons, more than half of whom were dwellings, with a church in the midst, children; and a tradition states, though and a number of scattering houses, show without designating the precise time, that the elevated and agreeable situation of a captive woman was once taken to the the southern part of the village. top of this mountain and there scalped. Amierst college was founded in 1821, HADLEY was attacked by the Indians and incorporated in 1825, by act of the while the inhabitants were at church, legislature of Massachusetts. The Rev. and was near falling into their hands, EDWARD HITCHCOCK, long distinguished when a stranger-a venerable old man- as the professor of geology, &c., was made his appearance, and by his active elhcted in 1843 as the successor of the resistance encouraged them to repel the president, Dr. HUMPHREY, and ably ocenemy. It was not known at the time cupides his station. who he was, or whither he went; but There are professors of rhetoric and there is now little doubt that he was English literature; mathematics and natGoffe, one of Charles the First's judges, ural philosophy; cliymistry and natural who was secreted for a length of tine history; Greek and Hebrew; zoology iln this town. The remains of his coffin, and astronomy; intellectual and moral it is believed, were discovered a few philosophy; and Latin and French. years since in the cellar-wall of a house There are also three tutors, a preceptor (niear the present academy) which was in German and French, and a lecturer formerly inhabited by one of his friends. on political economy. H [TFIELD, one mile from Hadley, on The libraries of the college and liter.. the west side of the rivet', is much de- ary societies contain about 15,000 volvoted to the winter'ing of cattle raised umes. The college library is accessible on the neighboring hilly country. The to all the students. The north, middle, grass is very fine, and the barlns are and south college buildings alie capa .__ ~.__ ~ - — r~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- _ —_ -- Ilr~ii T in. ii T i Vie o i Ve.fA etCle,wtte e Cant n Ob rarfmt S View of Amherst College, with {he New Cabinet and Observatory. from the Southwest. 106 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. cious, convenient, and situated in a man- what you find among the people that is ner highly favorable to appearance. good and honest, intelligent and successAt the dedication of the new cabinet ful, owes its origin to the loins or edilcaand observatory, on the 28th of June, tion of New England-and principally 1848, a large number of distinguished of Massachusetts. In my humble opinmen attended, on which occasion due ion, our colleges are the great conservaacknowledgments were made to the lib- tives of the Union, and we are deeply eral'patrons of the institution, who at indebted to them for whatever of honest different periods had rendered it essen- principle and integrity of character exists tial aid from their estates; and gratify- among us. ing evidence was afforded by a recapit- "Especially permit me to notice the ulation of contributions and donations observatory, and the liberal and enlightreceived within a few months, that its ened gentleman whose name stands the character and usefulness are more highly first on the list of patrons.* I trust that appreciated than ever. The president the foundation thus laid by him will herepaid a most appropriate and well-merited after sustain the instruments of modern compliment to one of the principal bene- science to draw from the skies a knowlfactors, in the following words: "In edge of the stars-to demonstrate to men the astronomical observatory at Cam- the glory of GoD, and the magnificence bridge is a massive towel, called the of his works —and show to their won-'Sears Tower,' which sustains on6 of dering minds that' the thousand brilliant the most splendid telescopes in the world. worlds which circle round Him are govBut in the' Sears Foundation of Liter- erned by one law,' and that' in wisdom ature and Benevolence'* in Amherst col- he has made them all.' lege, we have a more enduring structure." "' I venture to conclude my answer to A letter from the Hon. DAVID SEARS you, reverend sir, with the following senwas read, containing the following para- timent: Literary talent and pecuniary graphs:- ability-may their zeal be ever found "It is the peculiar characteristic of' united in building up the halls of learnMassachusetts to give encouragement to ing, and extending the altars of religion." learning, and to cherish her literary in- The Wood Cabinet is of brick, of an stitutions. It is a sentiment which has octagonal form, and forty-five feet in digrown with her growth and strength- ameter, with two lofty stories. It is stucened with her strength, and almost marks coed without as well as within, and the her as a distinct people. From the land- two halls which it contains are ornaing of their forefathers, in 1620, to the mented with fiesco painting. Great care present day, her sons-while differing on has been taken to render this building other subjects-have thought alike on secure from fire. The floors are firethis, and they have reason to be proud prooC; the upper one is supported by of the result. four strong iron pillars; and the doors "The colleges of Massachusetts are are of iron, weighing nearly half a ton aptly called seminaries of learning, for each. by them the seeds of knowledge, of vir- The Lawrence Observatory is an octue, of morality, and religion, are sown tagonal tower, forty-four feet high and broadcast through our land. Go where eighteen feet in diameter. It is sluryou will, from Maine to Mexico, fiom mounted by a dome ten feet high, which Ohio to the Pacific ocean, and much of is so made as to be easily moved round to the light or the left, bfor the conveni" It appears that a most liberal individual donation ence of observers using the telescope. to Amherst college has been made by the Hon. DAVIDng the telescope. SEARs, of Boston, consisting of real estate in that city, A.s in the observatory at West Point, which is estimated by the donor to be of the value &c., the dome rests upon several canof $12,000. This, with $10,000 formerly bestowed by him, is to constitute the " Sears Foundation of non-balls, placed between large iron Literature and Benevolence." which, although for the hoops, or circular track-ways, which Derpresent it does not yield a large income, yet such are form the part of wheels. the terms on which it is bestowed, that it must ultimately become of great value to the college. Y Hon. Abbott Lawrence. J_ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 107 The Sugarloaf is an isolated hill, of were the same men to whom England a conical form, about three miles south owed her first emancipation from the of Deerfield. The way by which we tyranny of the Stuart family-the same approach it lies nearly along the old men whose political principles, sternly road which led thither through the wil- asserted, led to the Revolution of 1688, deiness in 1675 when it was deserted and thus gave to our transatlantic proby the settlers, and Captain Lothrop genitors whatever civil freedom the-y was despatched, with a body of eighty now enjoy-the same men whose de soldiers and wagoners, to bring off the scendants led in the American Revolugrain. At the foot of this mountain is tion of 1776, and thus set an example the small village of Bloody Brook; and, whose influence, after overturninJg mainy near the spot where a bridge crosses ancient dynasties and changing the whole the stream, Captain Lothrop was am- political aspect of Europe, is still felt in bushed by about eight hundred Indians. the more silent but certain progress of The place was a marshy piece of ground; liberal principles, and the wider diffusion and some traces of the road, which was of equal rights. John Robinson may be formed of logs, are still to be seen, runI- justly regarded as the founder of the ning through the fields without crossing sect of independents or (as called in New at ihe bridge. The convoy halted at England) congregationalists. The most this place, and the soldiers were gener- important feature of their ecclesiastical ally engaged in giathering grapes firom system is the independence of each ch urch the vines which ran on the trees, having or congregation, of all bishops, synods, or left their muskets on the ground, when councils, and its direct dependence on the Indians fired upon them. Captain the Head of the Christian church himself. Lothrop gave orders that the men should The preaching of such a doctrine could disperse, and fire fiom behind the trees; not but offend the government of Engbut they were all cut off except eight or land. It drew upon the devoted heads ten. This massacre was one of the most of its disciples the determined persecucalamitous which ever occurred in New tion of Elizabeth and James, and exasEngland, taken into view with the small perated the civil war, which, terminating niumber of inhabitants at the time; as in the dethronement of Charles I., finally the company consisted of young men, gave the ascendency to the puritans. from the principal families in the eastern It was to avoid the persecution of towns. James that the English exiles composing DEERFIEL.D.-The meadow near Deer- Mr. Robinson's congregation remained field was the scene of several skirmishes for ten years at Leyden. But the same with the Indians at different times, as the pious views incited them to undertake place was a firontier for many years, al- a more distant migration. They at first though it was twice burnt and deserted. cast their eyes upon Guiana, of which In 1704, the period of its last destruc- Raleigh had given a glowing description, tion, a large body of Indians, led on by but subsequently decided to seek an esa few Frenchmen firom Canada, came tablishment in Virginia. Agents were upon the town before daylight, and after despatched to England, to obtain permassacring many of its inhabitants and mission from the king. James, although bursning their dwellings, retreated, taking desirous to promote the increase of the Mrs. Williams a captive to Canada. colony which had been planted under The Landingofthe Pilgrims atPlym- his auspices, was unwilling to sanction outh, which is represented in the vignette their religious opinions by tak;ng them at the head of this description of Massa- under his protection. The utmost he chusetts, is justly regarded as one of the would promise was, to connive at their most important events which ever hap- practices, and refrain from molesting pened oh the western continent. them. After accepting this precarious New England was settled by puritans, security, they procured from the Plymand still retains much of the spirit and outh company a grant of a tract of land, principles of its founders. The puritans lying, as was supposed, within the limits 108 DESCRIPTION OF, THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. of its patent; a partnership orjoint-stock scendants of the pilgrims as the annivercompany was frmed,,o disadvantageous sary of New England's birth. They terms,% with certain merchants in London, gave the town the name of Plymouth. in in order to raise the funds necessary to remembrance of the hospitalities they defiay the expenses of emigration andl had received at the last port in England settlement. Two vessels were obtainled firom Nwhich tney had sailed. Their first -the Speedwell, of sixty, and the May- operations consisted in measuring out the Flower, of orne hundred and eighty tons land to the different families, laying a burden-in which one hundred an(d twetn- platform for their ordnance, and erectty of their number were appointed to ing habitatiotns. It was not till Decemembark from an English port for Amer- ber 31st that they were able to celebrate ica. These were to act as the pioneers the sabbath, with its appropriate exerof the whole congregation. They were cises, in a house on shore. destined to figure in the world's history The hardships undergone by the peoas the celebrated pilgrims of New Enig- ple, in exploring the bay and effecting land. a landing, sowed the seeds of fatal disThey sought retirement, isolation, and ease; their provisions were scanty; the an opportutnity of founding a sm dl com- winter was extremely severe; and the Inmuli y tf puritans, where, apart, from all dians, rememberin( the kidnapping exthe wrld, their peculiar doctrines could ploits of Hunt and others, were hostile. be transmitted from father to son, with- More than half the colonists died before out attracting the notice of king or bish- spring; and those who retained their op. But they had a higher destiny: they strength were hardly sufficient to adminwere, in fact, to become the most efficient ister to the urgent wants of the sick and among the founders of a great empire, in dying. In this employment, no one diswhich their own principles should flour- tinguished himself more than John Carish for ages afier, and a more liberal ver, the governor. He was a man of system of' religious freedom should be f(-rtune, who had spent all in the service learnted and taught by their descendants. of the colony, and readily sacrificed his Rlbinson and his leople devoted their life in discharging the humblest offices last mee ing in Europe to an act of sol- of kindness to the sick. He was sucemtn and social worship, intended to im- ceeded by William Bradford, who was plore a blessing fiom Heaven upon the reelected for many successive years. enterprise in which they were about to Previous to the arrival of tile pilgrims engage; and on July 22, 1620, sailed in New England, a sweeping pestilence from Delft haven for Southampton- had carried off whole tribes of natives, whence, after remaining a fortnight, they in the region where they had now setsailed for America: but they were com- tled. Tile traces of fo(rmer habitations pelled by the bad condition of the Speed- were apparetit, but no Indians were well, and the treachery of its captain, to found residin, in their immediate vicinput back twice before their final deparl- ity. The slprinig, which restored health ure. The Speedwell was abandoned; to the colonis:s, brought themn also an a portion of the company, who, were dis- agreeable surprise, in the visit of some mayed at the evident dangers of Ihe voy- friendly Indians. The visit of Samoset, age, were dismissed, reducing their num- whose previouis intercourse with the Engber to one hundred and one, includiig lish fishermen enabled him to salute them women and childretn. This companly with " Welcome, welcome Englishmel!" were all crowded into the May-Flower, was fo)llowed by that of Massasoit, the which set sail from Plymouth, Septem- principal sachem of the countly, with bet 6, 1620, bearing the founders of whom the celebrated treaty was conNew Enigland across the Atlantic. cluded, which was inviolably observed December 22d, after imploring the fr more than fifty years, and contribDivine guidance and protection, the peo- uted during that period, more than any pie landed and commenced a settlement. olher circumstance, to secure New ErigThis day is still celebrated by the de- I land from the horrors of Indian warfare. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 109 We can not close our description of the fathers of New England in their strugMassachusetts more appropriately, than gles, situated as we are in the midst of by giving biographical sketches of two ease and prosperity. Indeed the whole of her nmost eminent statesmen. Occupy- character of those who influenced and Ing as they did exalted stations at the ex- directed their councils, has never been treme points in her history, the impress correctly estimated. By some it has of their characters has been so strongly been viewed as a model for the present marked on the institutions of the state generation, possessed of every virtue, that it will iever be effaced. We refer without blemish or reproach. Others to John Winthrop, the father of the have seen nothing but bigotry, hypocriMassachusetts colony, and John Quincy sy, a spirit of persecution, gloomy superAdams, whose life, firom early youth stition, and an absence of the social graces to a ripe old age, was devoted to the and virtues. Both of these views do vioservice of his country, in its most im- lence to human nature, history, andtruth. portant offices. There is a manifest want of justice in JOHN WINTHROP, FIRST GOVERNOR OF deciding upon any portion of history in MAssACHUSETTs.-We know of nothing the abstract, or by views which are obin the history of colonies marked with so tained in a more refined and cultivated many peculiarities, as the first settlement state of society, where questions of natof New England. No others were ever ural right are better understood. A more founded for purposes strictly religious. correct judgment may be formed by taChristian faith gave a tone to society that king into the estimate the general state is still felt throughout the community. of society at the time, and any peculiarThe belief of a special Providence di- ities in the combination of circumstances recting all matters of government, and that go to form the aggregate. If we ordering its changes, visiting vice with apply this rule to the early settlers of temporal calamities, and giving peculiar New England, we may lament the seaid to right motives, seemed to bring verities with which they visited differing man into more immediate communica- shades of opinion and disrespect of antion with his Maker, and to inspire him thority, the readiness which they maniwith high resolves.* It was in this way fested to believe that the calamities which that the colonists sustained themselves befell the erring, and their enemies, were through the difficulties and dangers which instances of the Divine indignation. WVe met them at every step, and which it was could wish that some things had been the daily, constant occupation of their otherwise, some we would blot out; but lives to surmount. But for this princi- we can not join with those who tread with pie, it would not be easy to understand contempt upon their ashes, and condemn fully the prevailing character of the early the principal features of their character. period of their history, and to judge They were no common men who guided alrighlt of the principles which supported the sufferers from the vengeance of power to these shores. Virtue was strong; * OUR PILGRIM FATHERS.-W- hen our fathers fled religion found her votaries, who were from persecution in England, and sought an asylum r on found her votares, who we itl this country, they at first depended much upon the willing to quit the hearths and altars, the supplies of food from the mother country. A cor- refinement and luxuries of the old world, puny of them having at one time gone to the seashore, after looking anxiously for avessel which was to erect temples to the Most High in the to bring them corn, and being disappointed, hunger deep silence of our forests. We.an induced them to search among the pebbles for something to satisfy the craving demands of nature.-And not Join in a general condemnatmol of sincere was their gratitude to Him who " openeth his those who fostered the good institutions hand and satisfieth the desire of every living thing," that have descended to us; strengthened when they found in the sand a kind of mussel, of which they partook, and found to be wholesome and them against the violence of opposition, nutricious. One day, after they had finished a hearty planted the seeds of liberty, now in full meal cf this kind, a venerable old man stood up and religion, returned thanks, by blessing God that he had ful- fruit; and cherished till it befilled to therta the promise made to Zebulon, DEUT. came an essential element in the constixxxiii. 19:' They shall offer sacrifices of righteous- tution of society. Surely it is some praise ness, for they shall suck of the abundance of the seas, and of treasures hid in the sand." that they planted churches in every vil [ FOUNDER OP THE CITY OF BOSTON, AND FIRST GOVERNOR OF MASSACHUSETTS. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 111 lage; that, by the system of free schools, also for the history he has left us of the established in many towns so early as early transactions in church and state in 1645, and by law in 1648, they sent the New England, and especially in Massakindly influences of learning to the fire- chusetts. His work, which, as we gathside of the humblest citizen; and, to er from him, was intended for publication crown all, founded that venerable uni- and for posterity, was left by him in versity, which for two centuries has been manuscript, in three parts. These had the direct source of incalculable good to all been in the hands of Hubbard, Mather, the people, and may be regarded as, in and Prince, who it seems had derived an important sense, the parent of many more assistance from them than they of the similar institutions in our land; would acknowledge. The first two parts, and all this at a time when the people bringing the history down to 1644, were were few, and, by reason of their pover- published at Hartford in Connecticut, in ty, were obliged, for one year, to forbear 1790. The third part was discovered in laying the usual tax. the tower of the old South church in From a general view of our early his- Boston, in 1816. On collating the mantory, we are satisfied, that the fathers of uscript of the first two parts with the New England were upright, intelligent, printed volume, the latter was found to and pious men, whose main endeavor contain many errors; and the whole was to strengthen the colonies they had work has been published by the Massaplanted, according to their ability; and chusetts Historical Society, with the asthat even their errors, in most instances, sistance of the legislature of that state; were the result of good motives, and an the third part had never before been ardent desire to promote religion, learn- published. It continues the history down ing, purity, and all the best interests of to the time of his death. Much interthe community. esting matter, and many important facts, Governor WINTHROP, the subject of are contained in this part. Of these, are this biography, was born at Groton, in relations of the various discussions beSuffolk, England, June 12, 1587; and tween the magistrates and deputies relawas descended from an ancient and hon- tive to their respective powers; an acorable family. His grandfather was an count of the synod that met at Cambridge eminent lawyer, in the reign of Henry to establish the platform of church disVIII., and attached to the reformation. ciple and government; a defence against His father was of the same profession, the charges which were raised to. the and the governor himself was bred a prejudice of the colonists, by their enelawyer, in which character he was em- mies, and preferred before the commisinentfor both integrity and abilities. In- sioners in England. These all serve to deed, he must have had the fairest rep- fill up the delineation of the character of utation, for he was appointed a justice the fathers of New England to the midof the peace at eighteen years of age. dle of the seventeenth century. When the design of settling a colony The contents of WINTHROP'S " History in New England was undertaken, Mr. of New England," are so various, that Winthrop was chosen, with general con- it is difficult to make an extract that will sent, to conduct the enterprise. His do justice to the author. But we select estate, amounting to the value of six or at a venture his " little speech," as he seven hundred pounds sterling a year, terms it. In 1645, when he was deputy he converted into money, and embarked governor, he was singled out from the his all to promote the settlement of New rest of the magistrates, who had acted England. When he left Groton he was with him, to defend the legality of his in the forty-third year of his age. He proceedings, in committing to prison arrived at Salem with the Massachusetts certain persons in Hingham, who had charter, June 12, 1630. been concerned in some disturbance of To no one are we more indebted than the peace, and who refused to find sureto WINTHROP, not only for the manifold ties for their appearance at court. The good which he did in his own day, but day of WINTHROP'S trial came, and he 112 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. declined taking his seat upon the bench. I ing Miriam), should she not have been Speaking of himself, as he does through- ashamed seven days? Shame had lien out, in the third person, he says: " The upon her, whatever the occasion had day appointed being come, the court as- been. 1 am unwilling to stay you from sembled in the meetinghouse at Boston. your urgent affairs, yet give me leave Divers of the elders were present, and (upon this special occasion) to speak a a great assembly of the people. The little more to this assembly. It may be deputy governor, coming in with the of some good use, to inform and rectify rest of the magistrates, placed himself the judgment of some of the people, and beneath, within the bar, and so sate un- may prevent such distempers as have covered. Some question was in court arisen amongst us. The great questions about his being in that place (for many that have troubled the country, are about of both the court and assembly were the authority of the magistrates and the grieved at it). But the deputy telling liberty of the people. It is yourselves them, that, being criminally accused, he who have called us to this office, and bemight not sit as a judge in that cause, ing called by you, we have our authority and if he were upon the bench, it would from God, in way of an ordinance, such be a great disadvantage to him, for he as hath the image of God eminently could not take that liberty to plead the stamped upon it, the contempt and viocause, which he ought to be allowed at lation whereof hath been vindicated with the bar; upon this the court was satis- examples of divine vengeance. I enfled." treat you to consider, that, when you Winthrop was fully and honorably ac- choose magistrates, you take them friom quitted of all the charges brought against among yourselves, men subject to like him. The governor (Dudley) read the passions as you are. Therefore when sentence of the court. "Then was the you see infirmities in us, you should iedeputy governor desired by the court to fleet upon your own, and that would go up and take his place again upon the make you bear the more with us, and bench, which he did accordingly, and not be severe censurers of the failings of the court being about to arise, he desired your magistrates, when you have continleave for a little speech, which was to ual experience of the like infirmities in this effect:- yourselves and others. We account him "' 1 suppose something may be expect- a good servant, who breaks not his coved from me, upon this charge that is be- enant. The covenant between you and fallen me, which moves me to speak now us is the oath you have taken of us, which to you; yet I intend not to intermeddle is to this purpose, that we shall govern in the proceedings of the court, or with you, and judge your causes by the rules any of the persons concerned therein. of God's laws and our own, accordinlg to Only I bless God, that I see an issue of our best skill. Whien you agree with a this troublesome business. I also ac- workman to build you a ship or house, knowledge the justice of the court, and, &c., he undertakes as well for his skill for mine own part, I am well satisfied. as for his faithfulness, for it is his proI was publicly charged, and I am pub- fession, and you pay him for both. But licly and legally acquitted, which is all when you call one to be a magistrate, I did expect or desire. And though this he doth not profess nor undertake to have be sufficient for my justification before sufficient skill for that office, nor can you men, yet not so before the God, who furnish him with gifts, &c., therefore bath seen so much amiss in my dispen- you must run the hazard of his skill anid sations (and even in this affair) as calls ability. But if he fail in faithfulness, me to be humble. For to be publicly which by his oath he is bound unto, that and criminally charged in this court, is he must answer for. If it fall out that matter of humiliation (and I desire to the case be clear to common apprehenmake a right use of it), notwithstanding sion, and the rule clear also, if he transI be thus acquitted. If her father had gress here, the error is not in the skill, spit in her face (saith thi Lord concern- I but in the evil of the will; it must be re- i DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 113 quired of him. But if the cause be or wantonness, &c., she shake it off, at doubtful, or the rule doubtful, to men any time, she is at no rest in her spirit, of such understanding and parts as your until she take it up again; and, whether magistrates are, if your magistrates her lord smiles upon her, and embraceth should err here, yourself must bear it. her in his armins, or whether he firowns, " For the other point concerning lib- or rebukes, or smites her, she apprehends erty, I observe a great mistake in the the sweetness of his love in all, and is country about that. There is a twofold refreshed, supported, and instructed, by liberty, natural (I mean as our nature is every such dispensation of his authority now corrupt) and civil or federal. The over her. On the other side, ye know first is comm an to man with beasts and who they are that complain of this yoke, other creatures. By this, man, as he and say,'Let us break their bands, &c., stands in relation to man simply, hath we will not have this man to rule over libeity to do what he lists; it is a liberty us.' Even so, brethren, it will be beto evil as well as to good. This liberty tween you and your magistrates. If you is incompatible and inconsistent with stand for your natural corrupt liberties, authority, and can not endure the least I and will do what is good in your own restraint of the mostjust authority. The eyes, you will not endure the least weight exercise and maintaining of this liberty of authority, but will murmur, and opmake men grow more evil, and in time pose, and be always striving to shake to be worse than brute beasts: omnes off that yoke; but if you will be satisfied sumus licentia deteriores. This is that to enjoy such civil and lawful liberties, great enemy of truth and peace, that wild such as Christ allows you, then will you beast, which all the ordinances of God quietly and cheerfully submit unto that are bent against, to restrain. and subdue authority which is set over you, in all it. The other kind of liberty I call civil the administrations of it, for your good. or federal, it may also be termed moral, Wherein, if we fail at any time, we hope in reference to the covenant between God we shall be willing (by God's assistance) and man, in the moral law, and the pol- to hearken to good advice firom any of itic covenants and constitutions, amongst you, or in any other way of God; so tnen themselves. This liberty is the shall your liberties'-e preserved, in upproper end and object of authority, and holding the honor and the power of aucan not subsist without it: and it is lib- thority amongst you." erty, to that only which is good, just, and It is a very full evidence of the esteem honest. This liberty you are to stand in which he was held, that, when many for, with the hazard (not only of your gentlemen of character, some of them goods, but) of your lives, if need be. i of noble alliance, were concerned in the Whatsoever crosseth this, is not author- same undertaking with him, he, by a ity, but a disteml)er thereof. This liber-! general voice, was placed at their head. ty is maintained and exercised in a way of i He says himself, in his excellent journal, subjection to authority; it is of the same which is indeed a treasure to all who kind of liberty wherewith Christ hath revere the memory of their ancestors: made us fiee. The woman's own choice " I was first chosen to be governor withmakes such a man herhusband; yet being out my seeking or expectation, there beso chosen, he is her lord, and she is to be ing then divers other gentlemen, who, subject to him, yet in a way of liberty, for their abilities, every way were far not of boudage; and a true wife accounts more fit." her subjection her honor and fieedom, He was eleven times chosen governor, ana would not think her condition safe and spent his whole estate in the public and free, but in her subjection to her service. His son John, and his grandhusband's authority. Such is the liberty son, Fitz-John (who was a captain in of the church under the authority of Col. Reed's regiment at the Restoration Christ, her king and husband; his yoke in 1660), were successively governors is so easy and sweet to her as a bride's of Connecticut colony, and Wait-Still I ornaments; and if, though frowardness, another grandson, was chief justice of L -_ _$ 114 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASdACHUSETTS. *1 I The Death-Bed of Winthrop. Massachusetts. Stephen, another son conducted himself with such address and of the elder Winthrop, went to England unshaken rectitude, as to render his charin 1645 or 1646, had the command of a acter universally respected among his regiment, and succeeded Harrison in his contemporaries, and his memory dear to major-generalship, was a member of posterity. In his magnanimity, disinparliament for Scotland in 1656, and terestedness. moderation, and harmoniwas much trusted by the Protector. ous character, the father of MassachuThe family, in every generation, have setts reminds us of the great "father of occupied high stations, and been deser- his country," and is the only name in vedly held in great respect. Its charac- our history worthy to stand as a parallel ter is now most worthily sustained by to WASHINGTON. HON. ROBERT C. WINTHROP, the late, His was the upright deed, distinguished and eloquent speaker of His the unswerving course, the house of representatives, in the Uni-'Mid every thwarting current's force, ted StatesCongress; and the Hn. Unchanged by venal aim, or flattery's hollow reedted States~' Congress; and the Hon. The holy truth walked ever by his side, DAVID SEARS, of Boston. This latter And in his bosom dwelt, companion, judge, and gentleman has been repeatedly a mem- But when disease revealed [guide. To his unclouded eye, ber of the legislature of Massachusetts, The stern destroyer standing nigh, as both representative and senator, be- Where turned he for a shield? tween the yeairs 1816 and 1851. W rapt he the robe of stainless rectitude Around his heart, to meet cold Jordan's flood? Governor WINTHROP died March 26, Grasped he the staff of pride, 1649, in the 62d year of his age, and His steps, through death's dark vale to guide? Ah, no! seif-righteousness he cast aside, was buried April 3d, in the northern Clasping, with firm and fearless faith, the cross of corner. of the King's chapel burying- HiM who died 0rud emyyof him, as Serene, serene, ground. We may truly say of him, as He passed the crumbling verge of this terrestrial he finely said of the husband of Lady Breathed soft, in childlike trust, [scene, Arabella Johnson, "He was a holy man The parting groan, and wiseve back to dust its dust — and wise, and died in sweet peace." He To Heaven its own." DESCRII ION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 115 THE WINTHROP FAMILY TOMB, IN KING'S CHAPEL BURYING-GROUND, TREMONT STREET, BOSTON. This ancient Monument originally had inscribed on it the Epitaph which is given below; but it is said that the letters having become nearly obliterated by time,' or injured by accident or design, during the Revolution, the stone was replaced by another, wh ch bears the names and ages fof the members of the family as follows:JOHN WINTHROP, GOVERNOR OF MASSACHUSETTS, Died 1649. MAJOR-GENERAL WAIT STILL WINTHROP, Died September 7th, 1717. Aged 76 Years. ANN WINTHROP SEARS, The Wife of DAVID SEARS, Died Oct. 2d, 1789. Aged 33 Years. Here also rest the remains of JOHN WINTHROP, first Governor of Connecticut, [eldest son of JOHN, the Founder of Boston, and first Governor of Massachusetts.] He died at Boston, 5th April, 1676. FITZ-JOHN WINTHROP, his son, Governor of Connecticut, died at Boston, 27th November, 1707. THOMIAs L. WINTHROP, Lieutenant-Governor of Massachusetts. died 22d Feb. 1840. STAND TRAVELLER, And adorn'dye Honours w'ch he bore, And admire ye Tomb, Deserving those he bore not. And to ye Public Tears add your own, A person of ye most undissembled piety Bewail ye public Loss, And unspotted probity, If of ye publick you are part. Of an exalted yet a modest Genius. This place is a Prince's Court He placed all things beneath himself, Rather than a Tomb. Himself beneath all men. This marble covers dust Worthy to be enclosed in Gold. Benevolent tow'rds all, Four WINTHROPS lie buried in this Tomb, And most so tow'ds ye poor & needy. Who were sufficient to enrich ev'n ye four quarters of Injurious to none not even to enemies; ye Earth. An enemy to none, Ev'n tho' highly provok'd. He is unacquainted with ye history of New England No unhappy person was by him rejected, Who is ignorant of this Family, Nor poor one refus'd admittance, And he has no regard for Universal Virtue Nor did any go away displeas'd. That does not highly value it. He was skillfull in physick, The last of these And being possessed of Golden Secrets, here Interr'd Indeed more valuable than Gold itself, Was WAIT WINTHROP, Esqr And having obtained Universal Remedies, Whose last Honour was this, Which Hippocrates & Helmont never knew, That he was Governour of New England, All that were sick where e'er he came He was, alas! he was He freely restor'd to health, Of New England, ye glory & Defence, And made almost his whole study of Nature The Light and Stay. Subservient to Medicine. Major-General of Massachusett's Colony, He that under this stone now sleeps in death, Of a noble yet peaceful disposition, Still lives in ye hearts of thousands And who for his Country and for Peace could die. Whose lives he has prolonged. President of ye Council for ye Province, The merits of WINTHRoP with Him Whose chiefest care it always was Oblivion shall not bury. That ye Commonwealth might receive no damage; He was born ye 27th day of December 1641, And in whom many died. Died ye 7th day of September 1717, Chief Judge, In ye 76xth year of his age. Who paid an equal regard to Justice & Clemency. They who value Life & still enjoy It. He went thro' ye most honourable Wish'd him a Thousand years continuance here, Stations in ye Government, An age exceeding that of Methusalem. 116 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. JOHN QUINCY ADAMS was born in where he was present at the signing of that part of Braintree, now Quincy, near the treaty of peace with Creat BritainBoston, July 11, 1767-in the midst of the act by which the independence of that deep, wide, stormy excitement which his country was consummated. preceded the separation of the then col- At the age of eighteen, his father per. onies from the British empire. In the mittedhim toreturn tothiscountry. He agitation of that period, his father John immediately became a student ill HarAdams, bore a leadingo part; and his vard college, where he graduated with mother, a strong-minded woman, worthy distinguished honor. He pursued the of that heroic age, had no thought or study of law for three years, having the -feeling that did not sympathize with her celebrated Theophilus Parsons for his husband andl her country. The lessons instructor; and then having been admitof his infancy were lessons of patriotism ted to the bar, he commenced the pracand of resistance to wrong. The blood tice of that profession in Boston. that circled in his veins was alive with In 1794, when he was just twentythe spirit of inflexible opposition to ar- seven years of age, he received from bitrary power. He was nine years old President Washington the appointment at the date of the declaration of inde- of minister to the Netherlands. From pendence. that time to 1801, he was in Europe, emEarlyin 1778, his father, whohad been ployed by his country in various dipappointed commissioner with Franklin lomaticservices. Just as General Washand Arthur Lee, at the court of Ver- ington was retiring from office, he apsailles, took him to France. Thus early pointed Mr. Adams minister plenipotendid he become cognizant of public affairs, tiaryv to the court of Portugal. While on and particularly of diplomatic business. his way to Lisbon he received a new The elder Adams was trailing his son for commission, changing his destination to alife ofpatriotic statesmanship. A treaty Berlin. During his residence of about having been signed by which France rec- three years and a half in Berlin, he conognised the United States as an inde- cluded an important commercial treaty Perldent power, Mr. Adams returned with with Prussia - thus accomplishing the his soni in the same vessel which brought object of his mission. He was recalled to our shores the first ambassador from near the close of his father's administraFrance-the first that ever came to us tion, and arrived in his native country in fiom any foreign power. September, 1801. Near the close of 1779, John Adams In 1802, he was chosen by the Boston was again sent abroad by Congress, as district to the senate of Massachusetts, minister plenipotentiary to negotiate a and soon after was elected by the legispeace with Great Britain; and again his lature a senator in Congress for six years, son John Quincy, then in his thirteenth fiom March 3, 1803. He remained in year, accompanied him to Paris, and the senate of the United States, until thence, a few months afterward, to Hol- 1808, when he resigned. TWhile in the land. The son was placed in school first senate he received the appointment of at Paris, then at Amsterdam. After- professor of rhetoric in Harvard Univerward. while his father continued in Hol- sity, an office which he filled with disland, he pursued his studies at the uni- tinguished ability. versity of Leyden. In July, 1781, Mr. In 1809, he was appointed by PresiDana, of Massachusetts, who had acco'n-. dent Madison, envoy extraordinary and panied John Adams as secretary of lega- minister plenipotentiary to the court of tion, went as minister plenipotentiary Russia, where he rendered the most imfirom Congress to the empress of Rus- p)ortant services to his country. By his sia; and John Quincy Adams, then just influence with that court he induced fourteen years old, went with hini as his Russia to offer her mediation between private secretary. A few months after- Great Britain and the United States, in ward he returned to his father in Hol- the war of 1812, and when the proper land. With his father he went toParis, time had arrived, he was placed by ~- -----— L i | -- - - — T - ~ - -- - - - Reidnc of theAdmsFail. Qiny.h-s 118 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. President Madison at the head of five attacked by paralysis, of which he had distinguished commissioners to negotiate before been a victim. He was removed a treaty of peace, which was concluded to the apartment of the speaker, where at Ghent, in 1814. Mr. Adams was then he remained surrounded by afflicted associated with Mr. Clay, and Mr. Gal- friends, till the weary clay resigned its latin, to negotiate a commerical conven- immortal spirit two days afterward. tion with Great Britain, and was forth- " This is the end of earth!" Brief but with appointed minister plenipotentiary emphatic words. They were the last to the court of St. James. While in uttered by the dying Christian. Europe, in 1811, he was appointed as- In this long career of public service, sociate justice of the supreme court of MR. ADAMS was distinguished by faiththe United States, which he declined. ful attention not only to all the great duPeace being restored, he resided for ties of his stations, but to all their less two years as the representative of his and minor duties. He was not the Salacountry at the court of Great Britain. minian galley, to be launched only on At the commencement of Mr. Monroe's extraordinary occasions, but he was the administration, in 1817, he was called ready vessel, always launched when the home to be secretary of state. For eight duties of his station required it, be the years in the department of state, he was occasion great or small. As president, the guiding mind of that wise, peaceful, as cabinet minister, as minister abroad, and prosperous administration. That he examined all questions that came bememorable administration was perhaps fore him, and examined all, in all their as much the administration of John parts, in all the minutiae of their detail, Quincy Adams as it was that of James as well as in all the vastness of their comMonroe. prehension. As senator, and as a memIn 1825, Mr. Adams was elected pres- ber of the house of representatives, the ident by the votes of the states in the obscure committee-room was as much house of representatives, the voting in the witness of his laborious application the electoral colleges having resulted in to the drudgery of legislation as the halls no choice. Of the measures and policy of the two houses were to the ever-ready of his administration, we may not speak speech, replete with knowledge, which particularly. In general they were the instructed all hearers, enlightened all same with those which had characterized subjects, and gave dignity and ornament the administration of Monroe. to debate. Two years after his retirement from In the observance of all the propriethe presidency, the people of the con- ties of life, Mr. ADAMS was a most noble gressional district in which he resided, and impressive example. He cultivated elected him to represent them in Con- the minor as well as the greater virtues. gress. At the commencement of the Wherever his presence could give aid and session in 1831, he took his seat in the countenance to what was useful and honhall of the house of representatives, and orable to man, there he was. In the in that place of honor and of duty, the exercises of the school and of the college representative of Plymouth Rock, with — in the meritorious meetings of tle generous blood from the May-Flower in agricultural, mechanical, and comrr.ercial I his veins, was continued by nine succes- societies-in attendance upon Divine sive elections. It is believed to have worship-he gave the punctual attendbeen the earnest wish of his heart to di ance rarely seen but in those who are like Chatham in the midst of his labors. fireefrom the weight of public cares. He It was a sublime thought that where he has been gathered to his fathers, leaving had toiled in the house of the nation, in behind him the memory of public serhours of the day devoted to its service, vices which are the history of his country the stroke of death should reach him, and for half a century, and the example of a there sever the ties of love and patriotism'life, public, and private, which should be which bound him to the earth. He fell the study and the model of the generain his seat, on the 21st of February, 1848, j tions of his countrymen. rlz= DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 119 I ~] V-11 Yale College, Courthouse, &c CONNECTICUT, Tiiis is one of the small states of the Union, but it has performed a part of much importance to the general interests of the countiry, in different ways and at different periods. It was not only one of the original states, but contained two of the oldest colonies, having been settled in 1636, sixteen years after the landing at Plymouth. The boundaries were long unsettled, and, on all its four sides, contesting claims caused agitation and difficulty for years: on the east, with Rhode Island; on the north, with Massachusetts; and on the west, with New York: which three states are now separated fi'om Connecticut chiefly by artificial limits. Having settled several towns on Long Island, Connecticut long extended her jurisdiction across the sound; and the beautiful valley of Wyoming, in Pennsylvania, was once occupied by her, as part of her territory, being included in the royal patent of the colony, I which extended to the Pacific oceari. The limits of the state, as long since finally settled, extend firom latitude 400 2' to 410 north, and between longitude 71~ 20' and 730 15' west. It coill tains 4,674 square miles. The soil is generally poor, with some remarkable exceptions, especially Dn the fertile meadows of Connecticut river. By a glance at the map, the reader will see that this state is crossed by three l)rincipal ranges of high land, from south to north, which give their general direction to the three chief streams-the Connecticut in the middle; the Thames, or Shetucket, in the east; and the Housatonic in the west. Some parts of the hills are rough and of considerable elevation, but scarcely deserve the name of mountains. Most of them consist of granite and other primitive rocks; and to that formation most of the country belongs, except the meadows, which are a ricl I 120 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. {i alluvial soil, annually increased by par- New York and the towns lying along ticles left by the floods, and washed the western part of the sound; while down from the high land by the rains. numerous sloops still find employment These lowlands are generally of great in the coasting trade. Foreign comfertility-those of the Connecticut, es- I merce is carried on to a limited extent; pecially, being considered as the best and several vessels from Stonington are in New England, and equal to almost engaged in sealing, and more from New any other in the United States. The I London in whaling. uplands, however, have a soil of but The aspect of Connecticut is genermiddling quality; yet being divided into ally pleasing to the eye. Its small terrismall farms, and cultivated by an indus- tory embraces a great variety of natural trious and intelligent people, they are scenery, everywhere embellished by art, made more prductive than some better and displaying the evidences of a ntumerlands in less favorable circumstances. ous, intelligent, industrious, ingenious, In some parts of the state are small and prosperous people. The surface is tracts, quite unfit for cultivation; but in marked by roads running in all direcmany of the roughest and wildest regions tions, and subdivided into thousands of are found valuable quarries and mines, farms of small size; while the flourishmany of which are profitably wrought; ing towns and villages which meet the and the discriminating eye of science view in great numbers, consist of tastehas recently recognised some of therare ful and comfortable dwellings, as far minerals before discovered in only a few removed from splendor on the one hand, localities in the world.* The greatest as from meanness and poverty on the treasure of the hilly regions, however, other. These are evidences of the genis an immense amount of water-power, eral degree of comfort and equality which afforded by the numerous streams which prevails among the people; while the rush down their declivities, and now churches and schoolhouses, distributed give motion to hundreds of mills and at short intervals all over the surface, thousands of curious machines, which indicate the attachment which the peothe intelligence of the inhabitants has ple have always shown for learning and introduced, or their ingenuity invented. religion. These produce in great numbers the The facilities and accommodations great variety of articles annually man- here offered to travellers, ae such as are ufactured both for home use and for dis- afforded by the most advanced state of tant markets. Most of these find their the arts and comforts of life. way first to the steamboats, or railroad In 1818, the state adopted the present cars, which now keep up an active inter- constitution, in place of the old charter course with the city of New York, and granted to the colony by King Charles I. are thence despatched in different di- The history of Connecticut under the rections, repaying, many times over, charter presents a remarkable example the cost of such raw materials as are of stability and uniformity in governbrought from other regions. ment, a parallel to which it would be Largee steamboats run daily between difficult to find in any country. All the New York and New Haven, Hartford, legislative officers, except representaNorwich, and Stonitngton, each commu- tives, were chosen every year by the nicating with a railroad, and thus afford- whole body of fieemen, as were the ing frequent, rapid, and commodious governor, deputy-governor, secretary, i means of travelling and exportation, andtreasurer. The representatives were scarcely to be exceeded, and highly ad- chosen twice a year by the towns. Many vantageous to commerce as well as to of these various officers, even the higher, numerous travellers who are attracted held their places till death or advanced by the beauty of the country. Steam- age. General Wyllys was elected secboats of smaller size ply daily between retary sixty-three years in succession, * See the Geological Survey of Connecticut, pub- including the agitated periods of the lashed in 1839. stamp-act and the revolution. All ju DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 121 dicial officers were appointed annually by Attempts to introduce Christianity the general assembly, and the members among several of the prLincij)al tribes of congress by general ticket. Within were made, in early times, under the a period of more than twenty years pre- authority of the legislature, but with litceding the adoption of the constitution tle effect. Their chiefs and head men in 1818, the number of men who lost were generally attached to their pagan I their places in ahe assembly and coun- systems. Several of the indians, howv cil, in consequence of a loss of popular- ever, were converts, among whom was ity, was only two; yet this was a time Samson Occum, long a distinguished marked by excitement and violent poSlit- preacher of the gospel. But it appears ical parties, embracing the wars of Eu- that no man was found with the zeal and rope and the last American war. perseverance o(f Eliot, called the AposAt the time when the constitution was tle to the Indians, who displayed such adopted in the place of the charter, a an unconquerabl)e spirit in his prolonged change took place in the political opin- exertions fo)r the instruction and civilions of the majority of*the people; and ization of the lMassachu'setts Ind(ians. some of the conflicting views which have Eliot himself felt so much the duly of since existed in the country, have by having something, d(one fior the Indians turns prevailed in Connecticut. In the in Connecticut, that lie applied to the meantime, almost every kind of business legislature and obtained a call for a for which the state is adapted has been meeting of the principal men of some of carried on with activity, and great ex- the tribes; but they rejected his offers, ertion made to improve the natural re- and never accepted Christianity as a sources; while commerce, the carrying- people. trade, and the settlement of near and The history of Connecticut impresses distant regions, have drawn away, either important reflections on the considerate temporarily or permanently, thousands mind. of the people, leaving but a small in- We have here an authentic account crease of population to be shown by the of the foundation of a state on principles census tables. of the highest nature, and for the most Exertions were made in different ways valuable objects that ever were proposed for the good of the Indians. For the by any set of men. In this respect the security of their rights of property, a history of all the kingdoms and empires law was early passed by the legislature of antiquity sinks into insignificance, in their favor, prohibiting private pur- and appears deficient in interest, as their chases of land, &c. origin was owing only to motives of neThe influence of this law was, as may cessity, or the desire of profit or power. be supposed, most favorable to the In- The Spaniards, it is true, pretended to dians. No man being permitted to hold have in view the introduction of Chrisland purchased of them without the au- tianity into South America; but their thority of the government, all inducement real object was conquest, and the history was cut off from unprincipled persons as well as the results of their policy t:o to overreach them, to abuse, destroy, or strongly attests the fact. to drive them away. When land was The objects and plans of the New purchased of the natives, they were gen- England colonies would have been well erally secured in the possession and worthy of our high estimation, even if permanent enjoyment of such tracts as their experiment had failed or had not they swished to reserve; and some of been tried. But now, when the proofs these are still held by their descendants, of their success are laid before us, and unalienable without the express consent it so far exceeds all anticipation, the mind of the legislature. Officers, called su- perceives powerful reasons for attendperintendents, are intrusted with the ing to this unexampled branch of human oversight of them, and reports are made history. And the study is recommended by these at every session of the legis- by higher considerations than those of lature. mere amusement. The characters de 122 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. velopedby the good and intelligent men berry, and a company was incorporated who are presented, are useful subjects with a donation of fifteen thousand dolof contemplation; the high value which lars, thirteen and one third per cent. of they set on religion and learning, on pri- which was to be paid to Messrs. Gray vate virtue and public faith, lead us more and Bolton, the inventors of improvejustly to appreciate and more warmly to ments in silk-machinery, for the use of admire them; while the disinterested- them in the state. The speculation in ness of their lives tends to make us bet- mulberry-trees which prevailed in 1839, ter, wiser, more active, and more useful, and the subsequent revulsion, caused in every sphere and in all situations in much loss in this state. life. In 1832 the paper made in Coi.necConsiderable improvement has been ticut was valued at $564,000. This is made in agriculture in this state within connected with the manufacture of books, a few years. Agricultural societies have which was lately carried on to such an diffused knowledge, encouraged experi- extent, that the nkumber of volumes printments, and favored the introduction of ed at Hartford was for several years improved implements and methods. greater than in any other place in the Trade, manufactures, and the learned United States, excepting only Boston, professions (as they are perhaps improp- New York, and Philadelphia. erly called), have diverted attention too NEW HAVEN.-This city is celebrated much from that business which is so for its beauty, being laid out in squares highly honorable and affords ample room four hundred feet in size, divided by for the application of science. Improve- fine broad and straight avenues, planted ments might probably be introduced in with large shady elms and other trees, agriculture, which would furnish the and well built with edifices in good taste, state with a larger supply of grain than adorned with gardens, and inhabited by it now raises, and prevent the necessity an intelligent and refined population. of making the present large annual im- This is the largest town in the state, portations. Wheat has suffered greatly and one of its capitals. It is chiefly disever since the year 1777 from the Hes- tinguished, however, as one of the first sian fly, which derives its name from the colonies, and the site of Yale College. fact that it first commenced its ravages The oldest edifice belonging to this venon that important crop during the year erable and flourishing institution was of when the Hessian troops came to the wood, and stood noar the corner of Colcountry. lege and Chapel streets. There are four Silk has been made with success in buildings for students, each containing Connecticut for many years, though on thirty-two rooms, a chapel, with a philoa limited scale. The cultivation of the sophical chamber and apparatus, and a white mulberry-tree was introduced into lyceum, with recitation-rooms and the Mansfield in 1760. In 1783 the assem- library. In the rear are the Trumbull bly offered for ten years a bounty of ten picture-gallery, the common's hall, in a shillings, lawful money, for every hun- small building with the splendid minerdred white mulberry-trees planted, and alogical cabinet above, purchased from threepence for every ounce of silk man- I the late Colonel Gibbs, of New York. ufactured. In 1735 the American silk A new building has lately been erected 3e mpany was formed in New Haven, and for the accommodation of the literary soa large number of mulberry-trees were cieties of the college. In another buildj planted there and elsewhere. In Mans- ing is the chemical laboratory, where field, in 1793, three hundred and sixty- Professor Silliman delivers his lectures. I two pounds ot raw silk were made. In The institution has above five hundred 1832 a bounty?f one dollar was offered scholars. for every hundred trees three years old, Next north of the college is the house and fifty cents a pound for silk reeled of the president, and the professors and fit for manufacture. In 1834 the have pleasant residences in the town. bounty was extended to the Chinese mul- The medical institution is at the north ji -_ -- -— I F~ ___.;t'....... TIMM.~"I~~~~~~~~~~ F F,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~,~7' ii~,,;!'li~, r --------- i,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~:,I Ii i i, I, jj~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~j;' I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ F I I I F F F F I F'' I ii i i.~',,I ~!~' ill i!~ i F F,FF~FI /1F ",!F 1~~~~~~~~~~~~ 124 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. end of College street, and the theologi- The manufactory of muskets is two cal seminary on the green. miles north of New Haven, on the road The burying-ground is situated oppo- to Hartford by Meriden, and at the foot site the medical institution, and occu- of East rock. It was established by pies a large extent of land, planted with Mr. Whitney, the well-known inventor trees, and containing a great number of of the cotton-jin. beautiful monuments of different designs. The New Haven and Hartford RtailThe old burying-ground was in the road, forty miles long, begins at the middle of the green, in the rear of the steamboat wharf, crosses Quinnepiack 4 Centre church; and there are to be seen river, and passes through the townships two ancient stone monuments, of a small of North Haven, Wallin(gford, Meriden, size, which are supposed to mark the Berlin, and Wethersfield. graves of two of the regicide judges, It pursues the general course of the Whalley and Dixwell. "old colonial road," the route taken in The Farmington and Northampton early times between New Haven and Canal, commencing near the head of the Hartford, which were independent colwharf in this city, is crossed by the onies. It was originally an Indian trail. traveller, in going up from the steam- Beyond New Haven, in Long Island boat, neat the market. The basin is sound, lies a cluster of islands called the large and commodious; and the canal, Thimbles, famous in the traditions of passing through a part of the city and the neighboring Connecticut coast, as bending round along the outskirts on the the ancient resort of Captain Kidd, the north side, intersects several streets, by notable pirate, whose treasures of solid which it is crossed on handsome bridges. gold, it is still believed by some, are It extends to Northampton, Massachu- concealed somewhere hereabouts. setts. SAYBR()OOK.-At this place was the first There are pleasant rides in various settlement made by Europeans on Condirections fiom New Haven, the roads necticut river. It was undertaken at the beinr numrerous, and the face of the earnest solicitation of many of the rightcountry favorable. ful proprietors of the country on its The Judges' Cave is on the summit of banks, who had been despoiled of their West rock, about a mile north of the possessions by their formidable enemies, bluff. It is formed by the crevices be- the Pequods. The River Indians twice tween seven large rocks, apparently made application to the English at Plythrown together by some convulsion. It mouth and at Boston to obtain settlers is small, and entirely above ground, with from their native soil, offering to give a rude rock, like a column, on each hand. them land enough, and to pay two hunThat on the right has this inscription: dred beaverskins annually for the bene-, Opposition to tyrants is obedience to God fitoftheil society.!utthe uilertaking was considered too hazardous; and it to remind the visiter that the place once was not until the year 1635, when the afforded shelter to Goffe and Whalley, Dutch at New York showed a detertwo of the judges of King Charles the mination to seize upon the country, First, who escaped to the colonies and which they claimed as their own, that a secreted themselves for some time in this small detachment of men was sent firomt solitary place. They were supplied with Boston to prepare for opening a trade food by a family which resided near the with the Indians, and to build a fort at foot of the mountain, and a little boy was the mouth of the river. Their haste was despatched for them every day, who left soon justified by events; for immediately a basket of provisions on a rock, with- after their landing, a Dutch vessel en- out knowing what cause he was sub- tered, and, proceeding up to Hartford, serving. The place commands an ex- landed a body of men, who soon estabtensive view upon the country below, lished themselves in a fort they called with a large tract of Long island and the Good Hope, on a spot they obta:ned sound. from Pequod usurpers. 1 1!__ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 125 The settlement of Saybrook was be- Saybrook as far as Middletown. The gun under a grant made to Lord Say roughness and rocky nature of the soil I and Seal, Lord Brook, and others, by prevent the cultivation of many mounGeorge. Fenwick, esquire, who fled to tainous tracts, yet there are farms enough this country with his family. The old to give a considerable degree of softness fort stood near the present fort hill, upon to the scenery. The variety of rocky an eminence which has since been de- and wooded banks, mingling with little stroyed by the waves; and the ground patches of cultivated ground, and the immediately behind it was afterward oc- habitations scattered along the river, is cupied by the fields and habitations of very agreeable, and often affrds scenes the colonists. It was expected firom the highly picturesque and delightful. first that the situation would render the Essex.-This is a small village, situplace a great city; and after the fear of ated on the ascent and summit of a handthe Indians had subsided, the whole pen- some elevation, seven miles from Sayinsula, which bears the name of Say- brook. During the late war with Great brook point, was laid out with the great- Britain, this place was taken by the enest regularity into fields of an equal size, emy, who came up the river in launches, except such parts as were reserved for and, taking the inhabitants by surprise, the erection of public buildings. occupied the town for a few hours. Many emigrants were once collected EAST HADDAM.-The landing-place in England, and prepared fir a voyage here is rocky, mountainous, and wild, to this place. Some persons of high and a good specimen of a large portion Irank and importance were among them; of the town to which it belongs. This and it is a well-authenticated fact that region is famous for a kind of earthOliver Cromwell had determined to em- quakes and subterranean sounds, which bark in the enterprise, and was once on were formerly common for a short disthe very eve of quitting England for tance round. They gave occasion to ever, whetl some unforeseen occurrence many superstitious reports, but have prevented him. ceased within a few years. They were The want of a harbor, and the obsta- called _3loodus noises, after the Indian cles presented to a fiee navigation by a name of the place. Large beryls and large sandbar at the mouth of the river, many other rare minerals are found in have effectually prevented the expecta- the neighborhood. tions of the settlers of Saybrook firom HADDAM is built on an eminence fifty being realized; and no remains of their or sixty feet high, which appears like works can now be discovered, except in the remains of an (Aold bank of the river, the rectangular forms of the fields, and descending to a little meadow which is the cellars of some of their dwellings, covered with orchards, grazing ground, just beyond the burying-ground, the &c., while a range of -ommanding hills foundation-stones of which have since rise beyond. been employed in building the neigh- The Narroiws.-Here the river turns hinting fences. One of the largest exca- abruptly to the east, and flows between vations is said to have been the cellar of two lofty hills, which it has divided at the old college building. The soldiers some long past period, before which, were firequently attacked within a short there is every reason to believe, the distance of the fort by the Pequods, but country for a great distance above was they afterward ran a palisade across the covered by a lake. isthmus which leads from the mainland. Fort Hill is the last elevated part of Yale college was placed here for a the southern bank. It was formerly a time. little fortress belonging to Sowheag, an Connecticut River.-The shores of this Indian chief, whose dorminion extended principal stream of New England pre- over the present towns of Middletown, sent a continued succession of hilly and Chatham, and Wethersfield. picturesque country, with few interrup- MIDDLETOWN is beautifully situated tions of level land, from a little above on the western bank of the Connecticut 126 DESCRIPTION OF THE STAIE OF CONNECTICUT. river, where the water is spread out to regard to the prisoners, converted into a considerable breadth, and disappears benefits. so suddenly at the Narrows, that, from Here the Auburn system has been many points of view, it has the appear- established with some few deviations. ance of a small lake, with high, sloping, The whole is under the direction of and cultivated shores. This is a most the superintendent-a man of firmness, agreeable residence. judgment, and humanity. The men are The Wesleyan university has a build- brought out to their work at signals ing one hundred and fifty feet long, fifty given by the bell. They lodge in solbroad, and four stories high, with rooms itary cells, and are not permitted to confor scholars; a chapel, with recitation- verse together while at work. They rooms above, both of stone; and an eat- take their food in their cells, and when ing-hall of brick, one hundred and twenty going to and from work or prayers, are feet long, with a piazza. obliged to march with the lock step. The quarries of freestone on the op- No blows are allowed to be given by posite shore, in Chatham, have furnished the officers except in self-defence. a valuable building material for some The smiths' fires are supplied with years, and have been worked to a con- Lehigh (Pennsylvania) coal for fuel, and siderable extent. part of the heat is conducted away in The Lead Mine is about two miles pipes to warm the apartments. The below the town, on the south shore of cells are furnished with comfortable beds the river, where are several old shafts, and bedclothes, and a bible for each. which were sunk in the revolutionary They are ranged in rows, and the keepwar, in a slate rock. The ore is sul- ers can look into them through grated phuret of lead, in veins of quartz, partly doors; at the same time the prisoners crystallized, and affording a few speci- are not able to converse with each other. mens of fluate of lime, and other min- The effects of evil communication, so erals. much and so banefully cherished in our The Cobalt Mline is about five miles old prisons, are thus effectually preeast, in Chatham, at the foot of Rattle- vented. Neither officers nor convicts snake hill. It is not worth working, at are allowed to use ardent spirits. the usual price of the metal. Just south HARTFORD, one of the capitals of the of it is a very pretty waterfall, about state, is on Connecticut river, thirty-four thirty feet high. miles north of New Haven. It is a place WETHERSFIELD.-This place is three of considerable business. There are miles from Hartford, and has a fine light the City hotel, coffeehouse and other soil, on an extensive level, probably once inns, several fine churches, &c. the bottom of a lake since drained by the The Charter Oak. —In the lower part deepening of the river's channel. It is of the town, in the street which runs east peculiarly favorable to the culture of from the south church, is the ancient and onions, which are exported in great respectable seat of the 5Wyllis family, quantities to various parts of the coun- who were among the early settlers of try, the West Indies, &c. Hartford, and have made a conspicuous Wethersfield was the second settle- figure in the history of the state, as well ment made by white men in Connec- as of the town, by holding the secretary's ti ut. In 1635, three or four men came office for a long course of time. The to this place and spent the winter. principal object of curiosity here, the ThDe Connecticut Stateprison.- The fine old oak, stands on the street in front. situation of this institution is healthy, It is said to have been a forest-tree beretired, and convenient to the water and fore the land was cleared, yet it appears the great road. It was completed in as firm and vigorous as ever. In a hole 1817. What have heretofore been re- in its trunk was hidden the charter of garded as the necessary evils of prisons the colony, when Sir Edmund Andross will be found in this prison to be greatly sent to demand it in 1687; and thero it reduced, and in many respects, even with remained for some years. This inter DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 127 esting document is still preserved in the twenty east-northeast of New York. It office of the secretary of the state. is situated irregularly, principally at the The Asylum for the Education of the foot of a hill facing the east, and wears Deaf and Dumb, is about a mile west an appearance of decline; but some of of the town, on Tower hill. It was the the houses are handsome, and there are earliest institution of the kind in Amer- several fine situations near the top. ica. The principal building is large, or- The harbor is one of the most acnamented with pilasters, and surrounded cessible, safe, and commodious, in the by a garden and pleasant grounds. The United States, lying near the ocean and hoise of the superintendent is near by, the sound, almost surrounded by high and the whole enjoys a fine situation, land, and having water enough For shipswith a very commanding prospect and of-war quite up to the wharves, with a a healthy neighborhood. fine sandy bottom near the shores. The number of scholars is about two Fort Griswold, opposite New I onhundred. Some of them are supported don, was garrisoned by a few contilenby a fiund belonfging to the institution, tal troops in the year 1781, during the and others by the states of Massachu- revolution, when Benedict Arnold, after setts, New HIampshire, &c. Ten sim- his desertion of the American cause, ilar institutiorns now exist in New York, appeared off the harbor with a British Philadelphia, Kentucky, &c. force on the 6th of September; and landThe Retreat for the Insane, a little ing eight hundred men on each point of south of the city, makes a handsome ap- the harbor, marched up and took Fort pearance, being a stone building one Trumbull, and burned the town. Col. hundred and fifty feet long and fifty feet Eyre, who commanded the troops on wide, the wings having three stories, and the eastern shore, proceeded toward the main building four. It is capable Fort Griswold, and sending in a flag of of containing about fifty patients, and is truce, demanded a surrender. warmed by flues. The grounds con- But, before this time, Colonel Lednected with the institution include about yard had entered the fort and garrisoned seventeen acres. A young lady who it with one hundred and twenty men, had been severely afflicted with deep chiefly militia volunteers from the neighmelancholy, but recovered at this insti- borhood. The British troops had adtution, wrote the following lines, which vanced under cover of a wood, and inwere handed to the excellent matron on vested the fort; but the Americans, after \leaving the place: defending themselves for some time, and "Farewell, Retreat; I will remember thee, beating off their enemies once, finally For thou hast been a hidiig place to me: surrendered when resistance would have When, on the waves of sorrow. hither driven, been entirely useless. The enemy had I found this refuge to the help!ess given. Oh, what an hour of darkness and despair, lost forty-one officers and men, who were When not a ray of hope was shining there, buried near the spot; with Colonel Eyre, But one continued storm my sky o'erspread, the and And poured its waters on my weary hea! the commander, wounded, Major Then did thy gentle form, amid the gloon, Montgomery killed. After the> surren Appear like Mery smiling o'er the tomb; der, however, a massacre of the prison With tender accents sooth my fears to rest, And smooth the anxious billows in my breast; ers took place, which cast the deepest WTith generous feeling, still each want supply- disgrace on the expedition; seventy ofNow seem to sympathize in every sigh. ficers and men being the victims, most How dear the hand that wipes the tear away, And kindness, doubly sweet in such a day! of whom were heads of families. Here memory. too, shall trace thy love sincere, Fort Hill is a commanding eminence And oft, in fancy, Lear thy footsteps near. Deep in my heart shall this remembrance be- about foul miles east from New LonThe sorrows I have known, thy love to me. don, and derives its name from a Pequod And, though divided by Time's flying hour, fort which occupied its summit. Yet may we bow befoie the Mighty Power formerly Which bids us live and strive to share his love, The road crosses it near the southern That we may meet in brighter worlds above." limit of the fort, and a small church NEW LONDON is fifty-four miles east stands a quarter of a mile above, within of New HIaven, and one hundred and the extensive space once enclosed by 2_~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ j128 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. that palisaded work. It was the great to Providence, colnectingwith the Boston foitress of the terrible Pequod nation, and Providence railroad. It was finishedl which makes a very conspicuous figure I in 1S37, and cost two millions of dollars. in the early history of the eastern col- Summit, three hundred and two feet; nies. They had fought their way from maximum grade, thirty-three feet; fourIl the interior, and seated themselves in teen miles nearly level; minimum radthe present limits of Groton, where the ius, one thousand six hundred and tliirfew poor remains of their descendants ty-seven feet, in one spot four hundred still are found. On the arrival of the aid eighty. English, they had extended their con- On descending the hill which leads quests a considerable distance up Con- into Stonington, Porter's rock, thirty or necticut river, and the eastern and west- forty feet high, is seen a little off the ern Nehantics were subject to them. road on the right hand. Under the sbel In consequence of the murders they ter of it, it is said, Captain Mason enhad committed, and the attack with which camped with his little army on the night they had threatened the infant settle- of May 26, 1637 (old style), a few hours ments at Hartford, Windsor, and Weth- before his successful attack on the secersfield, the inhabitants formed an ex- ond Pequod fort, which was on the top pedition in the spring of 1637, led by of a hill about two miles south of this Captain Mason, and attacked their other place. fort on the Mystic, burning it, and kill- THE MRIHEGAN TIBE OF INDIANS.ina about six hundred persons; after The Pequods lived near New Lonwhich the natives fled from their coun- don, and the Mohegans in and around try, and having suffered another terrible Norwich. slaughter in the swamp at Fairfield, were Uncas, the sachem of Mohegan, was reduced to slavery, and ceased firom that believed to be of Pequod descent, but time to be an object of terror. in a state of successful revolt at the This hill commands an extensive and time the English became acquainted delightful view, being almost entirely with him. His chief residence was near clear of obstructions, and superior in Trading cove, now the centre of the height to the neighboring hills. A con- Indian reservation; but the buryingsiderable extent of Long island and the ground of the royal family was near Norsound are overlooked from the summit, wich landing. He had conquered the with various islands, bays, and points, country as far north as about the present on the Connecticut coast. At the time Massachusetts line, but became an early of the burning of Mystic fort, it was friend of the whites, and rendered them occupied by the chief sachem, Sassacus, important services, particularly in war, who hastened to the relief of his sub- as well as his successors, the later Mojects, but arrived too late to render them hegan chiefs. any assistance. On his return here, Before this part of the state was sethe burned the wigwams and palisades, tied, Uncas was once so closely besieged and immediately fled for refuge to the by his enemies the Pequods, that he Mohawks, by whom he was beheaded. suffered extremely firom a scarcity of STONINGTON.-This is a small but provisions, and was relieved only by the busy town on the coast, long engaged in care of a man named Leffingwell, who whaling and sealing. Steamboats run was despatched from Connecticut with daily hence to New York. a boat loaded with provisions. In gratThe Providence and Stonington Rail- itude, Uncas gave him a large part of road, forty-seven miles, leaves the shore the present town1 of Norwich for this of Longff Island sound, at the steamboat important service. There is a rock still wharf in Stonington; passes through the pointed out on the shore, called Uncas's town; crosses Pawcatuck river into I chair, where the sachem is said to have Rhode Island; up Charles River valley to sat watching the arrival of his friends. Sherman's pond, South Kingston; north The poor remains of this tribe reside to East Greenwich; and across a bridge on the lands secured to them by the state :...........M~' aI~lllfl'j' C5, ~R c.~ rrr ~~ NII B g t N \ is:~ Ixl\\\\~~i\ - S -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 4 1~~S~ aArllllHI;~\\' c 3Wlil I~ Y/ LnW C,J//l;aPriLn OP UI rml nLBEiii~lllb'\\v\\\\\\U`CR I - RII Bridg atNowih 130 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. government, and live in all the ignor- The Bridge. —The accompanying en — ance, idleness, and thriftlessness, cornm- gravin represents the high bridge across mon to the Indians in this part of the the Thames, just below the falls. The country-melancholy testimonies of the rocks are high and precipitous, and the degradation to which the most active violence and roaring of the stream, eshuman minds may sink when every cus- pecially at high floods, strike the travtomary impulse to exertion has been eller with awe and fear. The stream stifled, and no new incitement extended. here makes a rapid descent down a NORWICH is in New London county, rough and rocky channel, over which at the head of navigation on the Thames. the passenger seems hanging in the air, It is eighty miles southwest of Boston, and about to be borne away by the irmand has two villages, of which Chelsea' petuous and irresistible curlrent. A short landing is the principal. The city is distance below, the bed of the river beremarkable for its singular situation, comes level, and soon the water spreads which is peculiarly beautiful and roman- over a wide surface, forming a broad tic-most of the buildings being on the and beautiful cove, which looks like a declivity of a hill, and the streets rising small, resplendent lake, with varied and one above another, ornamented with pleasing scenery displayed along its handsome churches, a townhall, an acad- margin. emy, and many elegant dwellinghouses. The TVorcester and Norwic7 Railroad, It is equally remarkable for its appear- fifty-eight and a half miles long, passes ance of business, which is much favored up the valley of the Quinnebaug, near by the numerous manufactories in the Jewett's city, and many manufactories, neighboring country. In the rear of the through Westfield, Pomfret, Oxford, &c., hill, about a mile north, is a beautiful to Worcester, where it meets the railplain, on which are laid out several hand- roads to Boston and to New York. It some streets, shaded with ancient trees, was opened in 1840; cost one million; which render it a very pleasant place. the maxium grade, twenty feet. On the way thither is seen the cove, Sachcm's Field, one mile and a half at the upper end of which are the falls from Norwich, is a small elevated plain, of Yantic, a stream which pours over a on which a battle was fought, in 1643, ledge of granite about forty feet high, between about nine hundred Narraganand supplies several manufactories with sets, inhabiting Rhode Island, and five water. The place is highly picturesque. or six hundred Mohegans. The sachem A rock, seventy or eighty feet in height, of the former, Miantonimo, intending to overhangs the stream, whence a number chastise Uncas for his adherence to the of Narraganset Indians, pursued by the English, secretly advanced into his counMohegans, precipitated themselves. try with an army. Uncas, aware of his The Burying-Ground of the Uncases.- approach, met him on this plain, where This is on the elevated bank north of both parties halted; he then resorted to the cove. There are stones marking this stratagem: stepping forward, he the graves of numerous members of the challenged Miantonimo to decide the royal family of the Mohegans, and a few quarrel single-handed. This, as he exof them bear English inscriptions. The pected was refused; and while his enefamily is now extinct. mies were unprepared, he gave a signal Uncas, the old friend of the pilgrims, by falling down, when his men set up a is buried here. He and his nation were yell, discharged their arrows, and rushed the only steady allies they ever found forward. The Narragansets fled, and among the Indians, firm and pbwerful many were killed. Uncas himself capenoulgh to render them very essential tured Miantonimo, who was too halughty service. He was a man of extraordinary to ask for quarter or speak a word; lie talent, and withal extremely politic; but was taken to Hartford, tried, and given he refused to join the Indians against to Uncas for execution; he was brought' the English, and died a fiiend of the back, and, while marching across the white men. field, tomahawked near the road. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 131 First Governor of Connecticat. i JOHINWINTHROP, FIRST GOVERNOR OF this brief memoir —was scarcely less CONNECTICUT.-This distinguished gen- distinguished. He was the heir of all tleman, for many years the governor of his father's talent, prudence, arid virtues, Connecticut, was tile eldest son of John with a superior share of hulman learnWinthrop, the first governor of Massa- ing-much addicted to philosophical chusetts, and fo,under of the city of Bos- study, and especially to physical science. ton-that famous pattern of piety and He was one of the early patrons of justice, as he is called in the early tile London Royal Society. Sir Hans chronicles of New England-who emi- Sloane, and three other members of that grated to America in 1630, ar(l brought society, some fifty years afterward, in with him the confidence and respect of commending the grandson of this genthe government he had left, arid the tleman to the notice of their associates, most exalted and upright faculty for the bear honorable testimony to the good duties he came to assume. Graham, repute in which the ancestor was held, adopting the thought of a classic histo- They speak of the learned John UWinrian, says of him that he not only per- throp as " one of the first members of formed actions worthy to be written, this society, and who in conjunction.but produced writings worthy to be with others did greatly contribute to the read. His son John-the subject of obtaining of our charter; to whom the 1~~~~ — z. 132 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT Royal Society in its early days was not married the late DAVID SEARS, Esq.,* only indebted for various ingenious com- of that place. munications, but their museum still corn- The name of WINTHROP shall be retains many testimonies of his generosity, membered so long as nations exist. It especially of things relating to the nat- will rank with Newton, Boyle, and Locke, ural history of New England." and those philanthropists of every age, John Winthrop was elected govern- who are an ornament to human nature, or of Connecticut for several years, in and whose lives have been devoted to the which station his many valuable quali- cultivation of the moral graces, and the ties as a gentleman, a philosopher, and advancement of social and religious hapa public ruler, procured him the univer piness; enlarging the circle of the human sal respect of the people under his gov- mind, and adorning the principles of phierument; and his unwearied attention losophywith the precepts ofpiety. Their to the public business and great under- fame is identified with the progress of standing in the art of government, were knowledge and the diffusion of virtue. of unspeakable advantage to them. The history of such men sheds a bright He was twice married, his second andundyinglustreupontheircountry, and wife being the daughter of the cele- will call forth the grateful recollections of brated Hugh Peters. By this marriage unborn generations, so long as truth shall he had several children, two of whom triumph over error, and the influence of were sons. The elder, Fitz-John, fol- Christianity be felt in removing vice and lowed in the footsteps of his father- superstition from the hearts of men. was elected governor of Connecticut, I of this gentleman a note will hardly allow us and held that post for nine years, com- the proper space to speak of his character and virtues. He was born on the 12th of August, 1752. mencing in 1698, and continuing till the He removed from Chatham to Boston in 1770, and day of his death. Thus father, son, and visited England in 1774. He became acquainted grandson, died in the highest office to with Dr. Franklin in London, and took letters to his friends in France and Holland. He remained on the which the affections of the people could continent nearly two years, and with difficulty made exalt them. The youi.iger son was a his way back to Boston. In various modes his services were useful to his country. During the presimember of the Massachusetts council, dency of the elder Adams he was one of a commitunder the new charter granted by Wil- tee of the citizens of Boston for building a frigate liam and Mary, and afterward chiefjus- (the Boston). towards which he subscribed three thousand dollars, and presenting it to government. tice of the superior court of that state. He was largely interested in the India and China His name was Wait Still, a compound trade, and added much to his fortune. He was disf.wo..a y,h 1e. e tinguished as an intelligent and able financierl-a diof two family names-the middle name rector in the first " bank of the United States," fiom being derived from the intermarriage of its commencement to its termination-often a refAdam, his great-grandfather, with the eree in intricate cases of mercantile equity; and fdamil of Sretil.-rnfthrits whole career was marked by the most incorruptfaimily of Still. tible integrity, which never for the sake of a paltry Wait Still Winthrop, the chief-justice, advantage violated that punctilious delicacy which appears to have left but two hildren, is indispensable to the character of a gentleman. appears to have lett but two children, "An easy mien, engaging in address, of whom John, the only son resembled Looks which at once each winning grace express, his grandfather in an ardent devotion to A life where love and truth were ever joined, A nature ever good and ever kind, science, and like him became a dis- A wisdom solid and a judgment clear, tinguished member of the Royal So- Thc smile indulgent, and a soul sincere." 0. 0....Mr. Sears was the proprietor of a large estate in ciety; his introduction to that body be- Waldo county, in Maine, the settlers and tenantry of ing greatly facilitated by the respect in which honored and revered him, and as they became which the memory of his ancestor was proprietors of the soil testified their gratitude for his patriarchal treatment by naming their towns in yet held. Attracted by the love of his his hono;r. He was generous and charitable-the favorite studies, and his attachmetnt to founder of the widows' funl in Trinity church —and te a contributor to numerous charities. He died in the society of learned men, he removed front of his house in Beacon-street, struck instantly to England, and died in 1747. He had dead by a stroke of apoplexy, as he was getting into seven chi of whom two werne sons, his carriage to make an afternoon visit, on the 19th seven children, of whom two were sons, of October, 1816. " By this affecting event, this town John Still and Basil. On the 4th of [Boston] has lost an eminent merchant and excellent Sept., 1750, the former man-~ied Jane "citizen; an only child, an affectionate parent; this Borla whose daug'hter. Ann 1 church [Trinity], a distinguished benefactor; society Borland, of Boston, whose daughte Ann at large, a well-bred and hospitable gentleman.' DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 133 __ i11___ - The Landing of Roger Williams RHODE ISLAND. _________A TIIIS state, the smallest in the __-______ /e ____-___ Union, is bounded on the north and east by Massachusetts, south by the Atlantic ocean, and west by Connecticut. It is about forty=___ _ i= nine miles long and twenty-nine wide, and contains one thousand three hundred and sixty square miles, of which one hundred and thirty are embraced in Narraganset bay. The population in 1850 The northern portion of the state is hilly, and that near the coast is low and level, but healthy, being tempered by the seabreeze. There are several islands in and near Narraganset bay, the principal of which, Rhode Island (called after the isle of Rhodes in the Mediterranean), has given name to the state. There are several rivers of great value for manufacturing, which is carried on in various tbranches, but chiefly in cotton, to the great benefit of the state. The principal rivers are as follows: Pawtucket, Providence, Wood, Pawtuxet, and Pawcatuck; and several'manufacturing villages, of considerable size, are built cn their banks. The commerce of the state has long been considerable; but of late years it has been transferred from Newport to Providence, where it now centres. Unhappily the slave-trade was formerly carried on extensively from Rhode Island; but that inhuman traffic has ceased. Rhode Island presents several strong contrasts, when viewed in different aspects. Although the smallest state in the Union, and containing but a small number of inhabitants, yet it has a very large proportion of persons engaged in L ____. - |1|34 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. I manufactures, and was the first in which "August, 1775. The assembly recomthe manfacture of cotton was effected mended to the congress to build and by machinery. Although the first of the equip a continental navy; the first reccolonies in which general religious tol- ommendation of this sort by any public eration, or rather equality, was estab- body. lished, contrary to the general impres- " lay, 1776. Act of abjuration on insion, that system was allowed to exist but dependence was passed; the only step two years; for Roman catholics were of this description, as far as I know, then denied the liberty allowed to others. taken by any assembly, or colonial conThe history of this state is interest- vention, before the declaration of coning for important events which occurred gress. The resolves of Mecklenburg within its territory at different epochs. county, in North Carolina, were of the It was the scene of some of the first and same tenor, but the meeting consisted the latest events of the eventful war of of delegates from one county only, and King Philip, or Metacom, who was a these seem not to have been chosen upon native of its soil, and fell at the foot of the usual principles of representation. Mount Hope. The Narragansets, one "There are passages in the colonial of the most powerful Indian tribes in history of Rhode Island most honorable New England, were reduced by a war to tile patriotic spirit of the people. The carried on in this territory. assembly petitioned against the famous This tribe is now reduced to three or'I sugar act' of 1773. four hundred, composing about fifty fam- "The petition was rejected by parilies, who reside on the Indian lands. liament. A curious debate on the subIndividuals of the tribe were lately in ject may be seen in Hassard's Parliapossession of three or four thousand mentary History, vol. viii., p. 1261." acres of land, about one third of which NEWPORT. —Th1S )lace possesses one was cultivated. The tribe own twenty of the best harbors in the United States. or thirty acres of woodland, seventy acres The entrance is protected by Fort Adams, of swamp, and nineteen acres on Short on Brenton's point. It embraces an exNeck; they have a church, with a reg- tent of about 130 acres. A range of ular baptist clergyman (an Indian); and guns lines the shore toward the west, a schoolhouse, in which school is kept and the casemates, &c., are very strong. in winter by the Indians, and in sum- Newport extends about a mile along mer by the missionary society: it con- the shore, and its natural beauties pass sists of forty or fifty scholars. quite beyond anyl easide resort in this In the revolution, Newport was taken country. It has 1,ecorne very popular and occupied by the British forces until as a place of summer residence. In the relieved by a French fleet, cooperating hottest weather, and at all hours of the with the American army. day, a cool sea-breeze can be enjoyed The following extract is firom a letter here. The range of the thermometer, written by a distinguished historian:- in fact, at all seasons of the year, is less "Rhode Island was foremost in the than at almost any other place in the following events:- United States. The romantic variety " ilay 17, 1744. The delegates fiom and picturesque elegance of its coast the town of Providence were instructed scenery, where the salt spray, foaming to prevail on the assembly to use their against the rocks, momently dashes itinfluence with the other colonies to pro- self into rainbows, present the most enmote the convening of a continental con- chanting splendors of impression that gress-a few days earlier than the action land, and sea, and sunshine, in their of any other public- body on the subject. combinations, can produce. A walk "June 15, 1774. The assembly chose along the cliffs is like a ramble through delegates to the congress two days be- a select gallery of Birch's marine views. fore Massachusetts, which I believe has To sit on high upon some " coin of vanhitherto been considered the first to elect tage" in the rock, and gaze upon the delegates. white waters wrestling in undyinlg wratlh I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~; llJ I~ ~, fl il il;iiiij~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~''./ II ~~~~~II! li I,~,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~i, II!1,,i,,I...',II i I ii "~ ~ Il Ill i!I; ii II!'I'I;,; i:;?'i~i ii~?ii l it:!t,,, 1I,I Il l,,, i' i 11', i i i i, iI 1 / ~ f t/IJ!~l? I Iil,~,~ t''II'! ii ii I I IiiiII ii''' I~~~~~~~~~~liI~ ~ IliIIli,!,!I 1 36 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. l with the eternal bases of the earth, while port, toward the northwest. It rises ill the spirit of beauty, prevailing over both, Warren, on the shore of an arm of the transmutes the terrlor into glory, and bay. Prudence island is about five miles spreads out before the imagination an in length, and presents the same fertile exhaustless banquet of visionary delight, soil and gently-swelling surface as that is a pleasure that invests that region ini of Rhode Island. The inhabitants are a spiritual lustre, and consecrates it to few, as are those of Patience and Hope, the enthusiasms of the poet as much as islands of a much smaller size. Desto the enjoyments of the gay. The drives pair is a cluster of rocks on the left, near in the neighborhood of the town, are the island of Hope, the north end of varied and beautiful. which is twenty miles firom Providence. The beach behind the town, like the Coal Mlline.-An extensive mine of whole circuit of the city on the land anthracite or incombustible coal was side, was defended by a line of troops, opened a few years since near the end batteries, &c., during the possession of of the island, in Portsmouth, about two it by the English in the revolutionary miles from Bristol ferry; it was not exwar; and the opposite high grounds tensively used, and the work was soon were occupied by the American army, abandoned. whose headquarters were on Taumony PROVIDENCE is the second city in New Ilill, about a mile and a half fiom the England. Population in 1851, about town-an elevation which affords an ex- 45,000. It is beautifully as well as adtensive view on every side. General vantageously situated at the head of naviPrescott was taken here during the war gation, on the river Providence. by a bold party of men underi Colonel The town was settled in the year 1636 -Barton, who landed secretly from a boat by Roger Williams, who left the old in the night, went to the British head- colonies in consequence of a disagreequarters, and conveyed their captive ment in religious doctrines. He built away, before the land or naval forces, his house on the shore, near the present then in the harbor, could prevent them. episcopal church. Many of the society The place was blockaded by the British of quakers, or fiiends, afterward joined fleet. him, whose descendants form a large During the possession of the place by share of the population of the state. the enemy, the trees were cut down for Brown University, the principal infuel; and although the soil is admirably stitution of learning in the state, is built calculated for the growth of fiuit-trees, on the summit of a high hill, decorated and was before that period quite covered with some of the finist houses in this with the finest orchards, it is now so part of the country, dispersed among divested of trees of every description, spacious gardens, and mingling the deas to appear remarkably naked and mo- lights of the country with the splendor notonous for an American scene. The of a city. It was founded in 1764; has fertility of the ground, and the excel- about one hundred and fifty students; lence of the crops, as well as the neat- and its library contains twenty-five thouness and precision with which the fields sand volumes. are cultivated and regularly divided by The academy, near the college, is a fine stone walls, present, however, a pic- large institut.on, and was established by ture of agricultural beauty rarely paral- the friends, or quakers. leled in the United States. The island, A man in boring for water, a few years fourteen miles long and not three miles ago, at the end of a wharf, many yards wide, contained in 1827 more than thirty distant from the original land, bored thousand sheep. through a stream of mud; then through lolount Ilope, famous as the ancient a bog meadow, containing good peat; royal residence of the Narraganset In- then through a sand and quartz gravel. dians, and particularly as the abode of At this point, water impregnated with King Philip, and the scene of his death, copperas and arsenic broke forth; but, L is seen from a few miles beyond New- determining to proceed further, he next I -- -_-__.________B University. Brow~n University. 138 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. struck a vineyard and drew up vines, There is quite a number of handsome grapes, grape-seeds, leaves, acorns, ha- edifices for public worship, banks, tavzelnuts, pinenuts, and the seeds of un- erns, &c. There are three distinct falls, known fruits, together with pure water. on which manufactories have been erectThis was thirty-five feet below the bed ed. The upper or Valley falls are about of the river. a mile from the main part of the village. The Boston and Providence Railroad, Here there are five large mills. About forty-one miles in length, begins at India half a mile lower down are the Central wharf, in Providence, near the steamboat falls. Here are four large factories. landing, and, passing through the town, Early History of Cotton Manufactures leads through Foxboro', Walpole, Ded- in America. —As Rhode Island was the ham, Roxbury, and other towns. It state into which the manufacture of cotwas opened in 1835, and cost nearly two ton by machinery was first introduced, millions of dollars; the curvatures are the following brief sketch of its history gentle; least radius, five thousand seven may be appropriately introduced here. hundred and thirty feet; highest grade, Looking back to the incipient state thirty-seven and a half feet; summit in of our manufactures, we can not but be Sharon, two hundred and fifty-six feet impressed with absolute astonishment above tide. There is a viaduct of gran- at the rapid strides they have made ite in Canton, seven hundred feet long, toward perfection. In 1727, the only and above sixty feet high, over Nepon- spinning-machine in the whole extent set valley. There are many embank- of our country was one spinning-jenny, mmnts and excavations in rock. with twenty-eight spindles, worked by Blackstone Canal.-This canal, which hand. At the present time, millions of reaches from Providence to Worcester, capital are employed in spinning and Massachusetts, runs alongthe course of weaving, every sloping stream is conthe Blackstone river for several miles. verted into a mill seat; and by the inIt is forty-five miles long, eighteen feet dustry of our own hands, with the aid wide at the bottom, and thirty-four feet of labor-saving machinery, we manufacat the surface. There are forty-eight ture not only what is necessary for our locks, all built of stone, which overcome own consumption, but also for exportaa rise and fall of four hundred and fifty tion. We copy from a Providence pafeet. The size of the locks is eighty- per the following facts in the early histwo feet in length, and ten in breadth; tory of cotton-spinning in the state, by and the cost of the whole work was about Mr.WVilliam Anthony, of Coventry; they half a million of dollars. The water can not be uninteresting to our readers: is chiefly derived from Blackstone river, "In 1786, Daniel Anthony, Andrew but there are large ponds at different Dexter, and Lewis Peck, of Providence, parts of the route which can be drawn formed a copartnership for the manufacupon at anytime. The whole work was turing of what was then emphatically completed about 1828. calledhomespun cloth. Theycommenced 11 PAWTUCKET is one of the largest man- spinning by hand, and manufactured ufacturing places in this part of the coun- jane from linen-wal p with cotton-fillitng. try. The banks of the river are varied About that time machinery was imported and somewhat romantic; while the fall, from England by Major Or'r, of Bridgewhich is under the bridge, furnishes a water, Massachusetts; and this company most valuable water-power. Cotton is sent Mr. Anthony to Bridgewater for the principally manufactured here, though purpose of obtaining a draft of the mathere is machinery devoted to other pur- chinery, if practicable. The mac:hinery poses. The village is divided by the was not in operation, nor was that the Blackstone or Pawtucket river. The intention of Major Orr; he kept it mereresidents of the left bank call it " Paw- ly for the purpose of being inspected by tucket, Massachusetts"- those of the the curious, and others willing to hazard I right bank, "Pawtucket,Rhodelsland." the experiment of establishing a manuThe population is over seven lhousand. factory. From a draft of the machinery'j 1!~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~l DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 139 a jenny was constructed The spindles "Manufacturing was in this infant and (twenty-eight in number) and brasswork imperfect state when Samuel Slater, es- were made by Daniel Jackson, of this quire, arrived from England. He was town, an ingenious coppersmith. This a mranufacturer, and could both build jenny, probably the first ever put in and use machinery. The old machinery motion in the United States, was placed was all thrown aside, and that built in the chambers of the markethouse in under the direction of Mr. Slater subProvidence, and there worked by hand. stituted in its place. " Joshua Lindley, about that period, " But few had then sufficient faith in built a carding-machine from Major the experiment to hazard their capital Orr's pattern. It was something sim- in so doubtful an enterprise as the manilar to those used at the present day ufacture of cotton. The manufacturers for carding of wool, the cotton being at that season had everything to contaken off the machine in rolls and roped tend against. By the policy of England, by hand. The company caused to be the exportation of machinery was pro1 built fiom Major Orr's pattern a spin- hibited. Our artisans, like our manufa.c1 ning-firaame, somewhat similar to our turers, were in their infancy; out' iron, water-frames, but very imperfect. It steel, and brass workers were few, and consisted of eight heads of four spindles they of course entirely unacquainted with 1 each, and was carried by a crank turned any kind of millwork, for we find that by hand. The first head was made by the head to the first spinning-fiame was John Baily, a very ingenious clockmaker made by a clockmaker. There also exof Pembroke, Massachusetts; and the isted a prejudice against manufacturing, other seven, with the brasswork and both at home and abroad. Every arguspindles, by our townsman, Daniel Jack- ment which ingenuity could devise was son. The lad who then turned the wheel urged against the measure. It was rephas ever since devoted his attention to resented as demoralizing to society, as the manufacturing of cotton, and it af- repugnant to republican principles, as fords us pleasure at this time to number ruinous to those engaged in it, and to him among the wealthy and most respec- the very liberties of the country. We table portion of our community. were then a commercial people, and " In 1788, Joseph Alexander and Jas. the commercial part of our community M'Kerris, from Scotland, came to Provi- viewed with no little jealousy the estabdence, and understanding the use of the lishment of manufactures. England, and. flyshuttle, they undertook to weave cor- Englishmen in this country, opposed it, deroy; a looni was built, agreeably to the knowing that our real advantages were direction of Mr. Alexander, and placed so great, that, if once established, we in the chambers of the markethouse; it would become a powerful and successused the flyshuttle, which was probably ful rival. But arguments, and remonthe first ever introduced into this coun- strances, and opposition of every kind, try. The corderoy was wove with linen proved unavailing. The enterprise of varp and cotton filling; but the manu- a few individuals overcame every obfacture of that description of cloth was stacle, and within forty years fiom the abandoned, in consequence of no person establishment of a single hand spinningbeing found who could cut the corderoy, frame, with no great assistance fiom at:. raise the pile which formed the ribs government, we find our manufactures an r ave it the finish. in their present flourishing and enviable " The spinning-frame, after being used situation. We can not dismiss the subsome time at Providence, was sent to ject without expressing a feeling of Pawtucket, and there attached to a wheel exultation, that our town was the first in and propelled by water-power. This the country to establish and patronize machine wasveryimperfect; all thecard- this invaluable branch of national ining and roping was done by hand. It dustry, and our markethouse the reposiwas used a short time and then sold to tory of the first spinning-fiame ever set Moses Brown, esquire. i in motion in the United States.". ~It *_______________________________________________________________________________,~~~~~ 140 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. Block Island. —This most southern by his look alone-his weather-beateui part of the state is a lone and desolate face, and an eye that, to all appearance.:, little island, lying far distant from the has been bleached while penetrating the I mainland, with but an irregular and pre- fog that hangs above and around the carious connexion with any other part island like a canopy. One would know of the country. him by his form: built for strength No class of citizens of the United rather than for beauty, and that natural States-says a writer-are less under- strength increased by constant hardships stood in Rhode Island, than the inhab- and exposure to water and to sun, the itants of Block island. Shut out fiom frame is spread to a degree that could K the world by the barrier of the ocean, not fail to be ever known after having all communication cut off except when been known at all. But, most of all, he the waters are tranquil enough to per- would be known by his dress. Having mit their boats to float upon their bosom, seen the costume of one Block-islander, this island appears to be a little world you have seen them all-it is a curious by itself, apart from everything but the mixture of the New England farmer and white-crested billow, and the dense blue the seaman. There is the homespun sea-fog. The island lies high in the pepper-and-salt, or black broadcloth, and water, on an average ten feet higher than upon its surface a huge patch of Russia Montaug point, which is the nearest duck; the tarpaulin hat which marks the land. It is nearly destitute of a harbor, seaman, and the cotton bandanna handeven for its fishing-smacks, as a north- kerchief that tells of him from the Green west wind sweeps down Long Island mountains; but most of all have we sound on the one hand, and a south wind looked at what covers his legs from one drives in fiom the Atlantic on the other, extremity to the other, and are denomrendering insecure any position that inated boots: these are known wherever might be taken around her fated land. they are seen —from one extremity of Many is the fine ship that has laid her the continent to the other; they could bones upon the rocks that stud the ex- have been modelled at no other place, treme points of this no-man's-land, and and an attempt to imitate them would many more have but just escaped a sim- be as fruitless as unprofitable; water ilar fate; and scarce a mariner comes could not penetrate, and fire could hardin view of it that does not call to mind ly consume, this part of their wardrobe, some shipmate who made his last splice and they will stand for ages, as monuin that neighborhood, and died within ments of the taste of the people who viewof his destined haven. Blockisland invented them. They are worn by all is a beacon of joy to thousands who classes, firom young to old. come in fiom the " sheep-pasture," as The females of Block island, too, can the Yankees term the Atlantic, and who face the gale, and defy rains, or snows, from a foreign land seek that of their or fieezing winters. They are almost nativity; it is the point whence they take as hardy as their husbands, and not untheir departure, and the first land they fiequently venture so far upon the sea make on their return, and for that rea- that the sail of their clipper-boats are son is greeted by the returning seaman seen only as specks on the horizon. as the first glimpse of his much-loved Rhode Island, small as it is, has been home. But when they make it a " lee- as fruitful in eminent men as any other shore," with a stiff breeze, it is more an state in the Union, however large. As object of terror than anything else, for early as 1723, it was the residence of the ten to one are the chances of escape celebrated divine and philosopher, Dean from destruction. Berkley, afterward bishop of Cloyne. But from the island we turn to that It is said that he wrote his Minute singular race who inhabit it. A Block- Philosopher while there. islander has been the same, without a The first anatomical and surgical lecj shadow of change, since his island was tures ever delivered in America were first inhabited. One would know him given at Newport, about the year 1760, 11 l DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 141 by Dr. William Hunter. A year or two stroyed by fire previous to the revoluaSfter, lectures on electricity, with the tionary war. The beautiful spot now Franklinian experiments, were given by belongs to another family. Solomon Southwick, the father of the Before the revolution, Rhode Island gentleman of the same name in Albany. with its capital (Newport) was the most From about 1756, there was more gen- agreeable spot on the Atlantic shores. eral literature in Newport, and through It enjoyed a very considerable comthe island, than perhaps any other part merce: the most lucrative, although not of America, which was owing to a very the most moral, was the trade to Afiica. well-selected public library given by Newport was then, from the causes alAbraham Redwood, esquire, a very op- ready mentioned, a lively, genteel, and ulent and generous person belonging to literary town, and Providence was comthe society of friends. He gave five paratively small. But after the British hundred pounds sterling for the books took possession of it, the town of Provin London. These were selected with idence rose rapidly on the ruins of the great judgment by the colony agent, and capital. Upward of nine hundred buildsome were added by private donations. ings, of all descriptions, were destroyed President Styles was its librarian be- by the British, principally for fuel; and tween twenty and thirty years. After what was equally, if not more, to be laa British army took possession of the mented, they also destroyed, through island, this valuable selection of books necessity, all the beautiful woods and was despoiled of a great portion of the ornamental trees on that fine island. English classics, histories, voyages, and During these calamities, Providence, i travels, and whatever came under the Bristol, Warren, and several towns on I head of entertaining books. The li- the Narraganset shore, increased in size brary is still respectable. and consequence, leaving the island, like Among military men, Rhode Island an old battered shield, held up against gave to the nation General Greene and the enemy. If the general government Commodore Perry. The once very can do anything to recover it to a con beautiful scenery which embellished the dition in any respect equal to its formel island, and its character for healthful- consequence, they ought, in gratitude, ness, drew to it every summer numbers so to do; for where is the spot in the of opulent invalids, with not a few men United States that has suffered so much of property, who sought pleasure and as Newport on Rhode Island. agreeable residence. It was the perma- While we are disposed to eulogize nent residence of many men of inde- Rhode Island, there is one thing we pendent fortune, past the meridian of have always regretted, and that is its life, from different pdrts of Europe and penal code. In point of health and prothe West India islands, and who chose priety, her prisons were far behind those that spot in which to spend their days. of other states; and the severity of their This accounts for the large number of punishments far more rigorous than in tories, or gentlemen who wished for no most of the other colonies and states. alteration in government and the habit- Their whipping at the cart's-tail fell but ual order of things. little short of the Russian knot; and Besides very handsome country-seats, their ear-croppings and brandings long that island contained three gardens that continued after other states had memeiited, in some measure, the name of liorated their punishments for theft ard botanical gardens, having greenhouses forgery. and hothouses, with curious foreign The following shows the population plants. Those belonging to Malborne, of the state at different periods:Redwood, and Bowler, were the most In 1730, 17,935 In 1800, 69,122 distinguished. The most elegant and 1748, 34,128 1810, 76,931 costly dwellinghouse in the twelve col- 1774, 59,678 1820, 83,059 onies was the country-seat of Colonel 1783, 51,809 1830, 97,199 Malborne, which was accidentally de- 1790, 68,825 1840, 108,8.20 In 1850, 147,654. _ II — Orba Oi BIJ321S ts 8f iIILTc j J 35 S33P, _3 L i3r.c Pa s?- :sz: Y-=L = u """7 rr - c-: - FI I —-- ---- ---- --.o~ r - —-- i ---— — /I, == —c: -— r -- — —` —--_--'- —= - — —-— L-,, —-,--~ — - -------- ---------------— _ —_ -- _._____ ---— —-._In — ------ -----------— __________ ___ _ = __ ____ I _ _ __ ___ __ --- ~ —--- — ==, Z_~_ ----------— —- -- ___ _ ___-; — --1= --- ------- ---- ------— 1 —..-__ —____ ____=_____I-==-r____ -, --; _ _-__=_=_______ —-==I=_ —---- i —-__11I' —-— = — - —--- -----------------— —:__11 -------------------- = — —` ------- - —:- - -------- ----- --------------- __ ------------------- =r= -- -----— _ —— _= —--- -- -------- ----------- --------— ___ —- — _ _II_ _ _ __ - =-==l__ —L:____-___ -- _I-= —------- __=-_-=_=_____=__:___ = —--— ______= — —_- -_ _r —l( : —Fi -- ----------------- -- ------ ----- --- ------------- ---- — 1 ____ __ -_Z- -—. — —-- __IT7_.___11/ ---------- ----- — ___ — --r — --- --------------- -. — ----- 1 — — _:_________ —_ —-1- —- —7 —. —--: r __ _ --— ~ - ------.- —I_.. —----- ---------- r _ -— __ ____ _____ _ 7- __ _ —-- - ---- TIT=-I_ -` —---------— _____ — .. 1 __ —-------------— = — —---------------- ----------------------- — _-_ —--— _L._ I_- __ — c-- -I —--— = —-— = —- —_ _ __ __,. —--- ----— 1~ -- — 1_~_ _ —-= —- —— =- — ---------- — _1- —- z - -- -- -" —-"-=L1= —_= —— _-__- ----- ----- -I.-___ _. I_____-I____=l-_ i —-_=-__-_-_=_ —---— I -— ------— =-r-=_:____ ----- --- - ------------------- -- --— r=-7_1____:.. ______ ___ ___ — _-I______I_-__ — __ ----— —- -------- - --- . — —----- ------- -- ----------- -----— "- _- --— _1 __ --- -- ----- _ __L —--- - -5=._-=_-___ —--- - __=-L ----— L=___==;______ _.__.1-.= — — -------------- -; —-— ~~ —-— ____ --- _T-_- _____=-1__11111=_____L7_ -=r —- —---------------- -------- - — —---— 1 —=- -— —------------- ----------- ____I_ _ 1=-r —-- -------- -: I- __L-_______ —-=_ —---- ----------- -------------- -` — —-----— —------- -------— ~ —— _; -------------- --,I —— 1-_ ---— Z- = -__=r-______- — _ —------- --- —--— —----- C- - _ --------------— 1-__________-=r____; — ---— _ - _.____z__ —----------— ~ — —--- -—.- —— =;I —--rlL-_. ——` —----- --------— —----— —=- — -.--- ,_=_=-1-~--_-L=~rn_.=_7-_TTc` ---- - ----— ~;~ —-=-; —_____-_ —-----— --=- --- -- --------------- _;L- —-- -—`L —-— ` -- -— - — — - -`-1LT=I1 i i DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 143 _l/;/lllt N or o, o.ts.~,,~ ~ ~~~, ~.~~.?,~'view, a more interesting. One of the No state in the Union ofcpies, at the /;: i, than New York, or, in many points of }::,.. settlements, occupying one of the largest |! "I. [ \:",,il/ i /, territories among the original thirteen',V~[~k -states, touching, with its extensive arms,? if\V~/:~ - the ocean, and two of the larger lakes, including for a century the most power-' @~\ lr v \//!g ~l,,\~/ ful body of Indians within our borders, l!:~Jt~[~~~ ~ ~~.~" and some of the principal paths of::for"! _a i eign invasion, her scenes of early enterama-~~,.,%, prises and military operations, often distinguished by the bold and beautiful |,",'"- traits of nature, have been in turn the witnesses of extending civilization, and the triumphs of modern science and art enlisted in her service. VWhere the Indians, sent out or led on by the French Jesuits in Canada, laid the ambush, or fell upon the defenceless frontier settlement, or where the armies of France and England contended for the possession of American forests. in the course of years the same places witnessed the strife between the colonies and the mother-country; and, since it ceased, have been enlivened by the passage of steamboats or rail-cars, or afforded sites for flourishing towns and cities. To give more than an imperfect outline of the past and present condition of so large, populous, and important a state, in the few pages allotted to it in a work like this, will be impossible; and, to avoid the necessity of falling into a mere record of dry statistics, we must confine our attention to some of the leading natural features, the most important epochs in history, works of art, and other points of interest. HUDSON RIVER.-This stream, as one of the most important channels of commerce in the Union, merit special attention. Its natural advantages have been immensely surpassed by those added by art: for, since the construction of the 144 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. canals, especially the Grand or Erie with the variety of taste displayed iri canal, an extent of territory has been the country-seats occupying theheightns, opened, surpassing, a thousand times, declivities, and shores, interminglingr that which borders the stream and its with the beautiful and sometimes wild branches. The railroads already made scenery with which nature has enrichincrease the amount of navigation and ed it, and which is widely and so justly valuable freights annually borne upon celebrated —all these, combined with the bosom of this noble river; and those the evidences of industry and wealth, proposed and partly completed, promise displayed by the fleets of vessels of difstill greater and incalculable results. ferent kinds continually ploughing its Of those more recently completed, the waters, render the Hudson one of the New York and Erie railroad, described most agreeable routes for a traveller. on another page, is by far the most im- In summer, the number of travellers portant, forming, as it does, a second passing up and down this river is almost and more rapid communication between incredible: for it lies on the way between the Atlantic sea-board and the lakes. the commercial metropolis of the Union The Hudson rises in the wild, eleva- and several of the principal points to ted, and almost uninhabited region west which travellers for business or pleasof Lake Champlain, and flows, at first, ure direct their course: Ballston and nearly north, then east, and finally south, Saratoga, Lakes George and Chamtill it falls into New York bay, passing plain, Canada, Niagara, and the West; through which and the lower bay, its while by numbers this attractive route I waters mingle with those of the ocean, is chosen in going to Boston, the White at Sandy Hook. The latter and princi- mountains of New Hampshire, and othpal part of its course is remarkably er parts of New England. straight, and almost due south. After One of the remarkable objects on the receiving several small branches in the Hudson is the trap range, on its western upper regions, it is swelled by the Mo- bank, extending from Weehawken bluff hawk at Waterford; and soon after ar up toward the Highlands, called the I reaching Troy, the head of steaml)oat Palisades. It often presents a precipinavigation, passes Albany, where the: tous wall, totally inaccessible firom the northern and Erie canals communicate water, except occasionally; and f'or with it, through a spaciousbasin. From some distance it rises about four hunthat place to its mouth, the Hudson is died feet perpendicularly. navigated by a number of steamboats, MovNTAiNs.-The Alleganyrange ensloops, canal-boats, and vessels of larger ters this state fiom New Jersey, and I size, worthy of the principal commer- crosses the Hudson at the pass of the cial river of the United States, flowing Highlands, celebrated for its scenery, into the Atlantic. Although it passes and for some important events in the through a line of mountains at the High- Revolutionary war, and passes into New lands, that are commonly regarded as the England. Allegany range, it pursues its way with' The Catskill mountains rise at some a smooth and unbroken current, causing distance above the Highlands, about sevno interruption to navigation. en miles west of the river, and present It has two large expansions below a ranlge of rocks, covered with a thin that point, called Haverstraw and Tap- coat of forest-trees, with several peaks pan bays, after which it proceeds, with rising a little above the general outline, a breadth but little increased, till it the loftiest of which, the Crow's-Nest, reaches the city of New York. The is about three thousand five hundred feet tide is evident even at Albany; but the above the ocean. The poverty of the water is perceptibly affected by the soil and the roughness and almost inacbrine of the Atlantic only as high as cessible nature of the surface, render Polopel's island, at the northern extrem- this wild region the retreat of deer and ity of the Highlands. The numerous wolves. The abundance of oak-trees is and flourishing towns upon its banks, such, that numerous tanneries are found \~~~~~ -- =. _ View of the Palisades Hudson River. I!~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ — I — 146 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW' YORK. in that region. The village of Hunter Moving northward, the Genesee flows is situated halfway tp the mountain, at toward the great mart and manufactoly an elevation considerably higher than of' those stores of grain which its shores any other within the limits of New yield in such abundance; and that large York. The Mountain house, in the up- and flourishing town owes its existence, per parts of this Alpine region, is the or at least its importance, to the abunresort of numerous travellers of taste in dant water-power afforded by the sudthe warm seasons; and, while it affords den descent of its waters over the steep every comfort, and many of the luxuries falls at that place. Both sides of the of life, it commands one of the most ex- stream are there lined, for a great distensive and delightful views to be found tance, by mills of the largest size, collnwithin the circuit of the Union, with ea- structed in the most substantial manner, sy access to the wild valley of the Cau- which are celebrated for the excellency, terskill creek, and its remarkable cas- as well as the amount of the flour which cades. they annually produce. OSWEGO RIVER is a very remarkable It is remarkable in the history of this stream on account of one singular pecu- part of the state, that the superior ferliarity. It is the drain of almost the tility of the Genesee Flats long remainwhole cluster of small lakes in the mid- ed unknown, as well as the peculiar fitdle of the state of New York. Having ness of the soil for wheat. Thousands its head in Canandaigua lake, in its eas- of emigrants from New England, says terly course, it receives the outlets of Darby, settled on other tracts of land all those which empty northward, and further west, where they were satisfied at length, after passing several villages, if' they could raise thirty bushels of receives the Oswego canal, and falls corn on an acre. But the value of this into Lake Ontario at the village of Os- fertile region is now well appreciated; wego. and sixty bushels of corn, or twenty-five GENESEE RIVER.-The scenery along of wheat, are annually yielded by thouthe course of this river is wild, where it sands of acres. A finer sight can hardpasses through the high and rocky ridge ly be shown in any part of our country, which bounds the rich "Genesee Flats," than this region, when covered with its on the south. The banks, for a consid- waving crops. erable distance, are perpendicular, as if The Genesee Flats were a favorite cut through by some irresistible torrent, district with the Indians; and the last exposing to view the strata far below blow received by the Iroquois, in the the original surface. The extensive Revolutionary war, was given herie, valley which succeeds, so celebrated for when a large village was burnt, and they its fertility, affords the stream a smooth were driven from their richest plant- I and level channel, by which it gently ing grounds. The remains of ancient meanders through a scene of peculiar mounds and other traces of past generarichness, in summer waving with some tions, prove that the banks of the stream of the best wheat in America. Tle were long the residence of a large popstream, by wearing away the limestone ulation. rocks above, annually enriches the soil SPRINGs.-New York abounds in by its deposites; and this natural manu- mineral springs, and of very different ring process is aided by the action of qualities. Some of them possess highly the wind, which, in blowing down the sanative properties, and are the most rocky chasm just mentioned, brings celebrated resorts in America, by inwith it particles of dust fiom the crumb- valids and travellers for pleasure. Othling surface, and spreads them far and ers are merely curiosities, on account wide over the meadows. So important of the peculiar substances held in solu. are the effects of this process, that the tion by their waters. land is perceptibly richer, on the upper Gas springs are among the latter; part of the valley, as we approach its and these are found in several places in rugged boundary. the western parts of the state, chiefly at ______ _;., DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 147 Bristol, Middlesex, and Canandaigua, flowing, by thousands of persons, from where they, in some places, rise from all parts of this country, and from many small hillocks, and the hydrogen which foreign lands. The railroad offers evforms a large constituent of the gaseous ery facility for travelling, and several exhalations, readily burns on being interesting places lie in the vicinity, touched with flame, and sometimes con- while through the place lies the grand tinues to blaze for several hours, even route to Canada, by Lake Champlain. when surrounded with sniow. In the The Congress spring, at the southert: geological volumes of the reports of the end of the village, affords a plentiful. scientific survey of the state, all the supply of saline water, in which Glauparticulars maybe found, relating tothis ber's salt abounds, accompanied with and to many other subjects, connected portions of lime and magnesia, and a with the rocks and soil of the extensive slight trace of iron, and abundance of and diversified territory. carbonic acid, gas, all which together Ballston Springs.-The old chalybe- render it one of the most useful of natuate spring, in the centre of the village ral mineral waters in the world. It is of Ballston Spa, near the Kayderoseros recommended for many cases of disease, brook, was known to the Indians, and and great quantities are bottled for the highly valued by them. It was visited supply of cities and towns in all parts by Sir William Johnson, before the of the Union, while much of it is sent Revolutionary war, at the recommenda- abroad. It was discovered soon after tion of an Indian, for the improvement the Revolution, in the bed of a small of his health; and he was carried for a brook, which flows tt:rough the narrow, considerable distance on a litter, there marshy strip of ground. in which all beina at that time no road. The vicini- the other springs at this place are situty of the spring was marked by the feet ated, including the Iodine spring, which of numerous deer, and paths were trod- is a great rarity. den by them to their favorite drinking- The Round Rock spring was known place, from every direction. For sever- to the Indians, and is named from a holal years after the war, there were no low conical mass of rock in which it ribetter accommodations at the place than ses, and over the top of which it fora miserable loghouse; but it gradually merly flowed. A tree, it is said, fell became a place of considerable resort; upon it some years ago, and caused the and about the year 1814 orl815, was a crack through which the water now esvillage, with several houses for lodgers, capes, near the level of the ground. one of which, the Sans Souci, had ac- The water is a feeble chalybeate, of litcommodetions for about one hundred tle value or interest, and holds in soluand fifty persons. Several other springs tion a portion of lime, whose gradual had been discovered, and more were deposition, on the escape of the carbonafterward found, all situated in the small ic acid, no doubt formed the singular alluvial valley of the Kayderoseros. cone, which naturally has made it an These differed in nature: some being object of popular curiosity. pure water, others chalybeates, sulphur- NATURAL HISTORY.-A few years ous, and saline. This place, however, ago the legislature of this state authorfor many years, has been superseded by ized a scientific survey of its territory, Saratoga Springs.-This is now by appointed some of the most eminent far the most important watering-place naturalists in different departments and in the Union, for the number of visiters. appropriated considerable sums of monThere are five or six hotels of the lar- ey to pay the expenses. The state has gest size, and numerous smaller ones, now been traversed and examined, re all standing on one street, and within a ports have been made, accepted, and short distance of the principal spring; printed, and we have already eleven voland the place, during the warm season, umes, elegant quartos, abounding in especially in the months of July and facts, and illustrated by hundreds of enAugust, is generally crowded to over- gravings, representing the rocky strata, 148 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. and other geological features, with the land, furrowed by valleys lying north plants, insects, reptiles, fish, birds, and and south, once probably outlets of an beasts, inhabiting the land and water. inland ocean. The descent westward The descriptions partake of the popu- is sudden, to Lake Erie; while ten or lar style, to a considerable extent, in or- twelve small lakes in the middle are der that the common reader may not be drained by the Genesee river, and visitdebarred from the perusal, by language ed by salmon from Lake Ontario. The loo strictly technical. The last volumes great lakes have much influence on the ire soon to appear. The following climate. Here are found the northern l general views of the regions, climates, lynx, with the deer-mouse and porcuand animals of the state, we abridge pine. Streams flow from this district fiom those reports. to the Mississippi, and to the SusqueNew York lies within the temperate hannah and Delaware. zone, in an irregular triangle, with its 2. The Northern District has mountapex on the Atlantic, and its sides on ains, some five thousand feet in height. the western border of New England, with Lake Champlain, one hundred and the St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario, forty miles long; and is inhabited by anad the northern boundaries of Penn- several fur-bearing animals: the sable sylvania and New Jersey. Long'island and beaver, and also by the mouse and forms a sandy spur, extending from the the wolverine. It is the southern limit harbor of New York. eastward, about of migration of many of the arctic birds, one hundred and fifty miles. Including as the Canada jay, spruce-grouse, swan, Long island, the state extends through raven, and arctic woodpecker. eight degrees of longitude, and from 3. The fHudson Valley District lies in forty degrees and three minutes, to for- the form of an inverted L; and, though ty-five degrees, of north latitude, with small, it is highly interesting, as it conimore than forty-six thousand square tains many of the animals of the adjamiles. It covers a surface greater than cent New England states, while on the Poland, Scotland, or Naples and Sicily; west it has the Catskill mountains, some three times larger than Switzerland, of which rise four thousand feet, and and almost equal to England. It is are still the habitation of wolves, deer, nearly in the latitude of Italy, the south panthers, and bears. The Erie canal of France, and the north of Spain; and has brought into the Hudson the softresembles them in the heats of summer; shelled turtle and the rock bass from the but yet the winters are as severe as lakes; as the yellow perch and the musthose of the northern countries of Eu- kalonge have found their way from Lake rope. The mean length of the winter Erie to the Mississippi through the Ohio in ten years was one hundred and sixty- canal. The southern part of this disfive days, or about five months; and the trict teems with inhabitants of the ocean. mountains, although none of them ex- It is remarkable that some species of cee(l the height of five thousand feet, animals find the Hudson their natural have a much colder climate than corres- eastern boundary, as the opossum, chain:ponding elevations in Europe. Within snakes, brown swift, buzzard, and sevthe boundaries, are animals, which are eral other birds, come to its western found, in the old world, only at great borders, but never cross it. At the distances from each other; as the Cer- same time, there are soree species which vidle and Mustelide of the south of Eu- abound in the counties on the eastern r)pe, and the Muridae and Vespertilion- side, but are never seen on the western. idac of the north. 4. The Atlantic District, or Long IsThere are four districts, distinguished land, runs about one hundred and fifty by geographical peculiarities, and not miles northeasterly; with a mean breadth less by zoological. of ten miles, having low sand hills in 1. The WVestern District, bounded on the northernl part, only in one place the east l)y the Mohawk valley, and is i three hundred feet high. The bear, i chiefly elevated on the Allegany table- wolf, and otter, have been exterminated: DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 149'but the deer remain; and, although much LAKES. — New York contains more hunted, are believed to be on the in- lakes than any other state in the Union: crease, since they have begun to be and, if we cast our eyes upon the map, protected by law during the breeding and observe their number and importseason. This remarkable tongue of ance, with those larger ones which toland, stretching nearly at right angldes gether form a large proportion of its from the coast south of it, is the first boundaries, we might be disposed to resting-place oflered to many of the give it a new but appropriate geograFlhbirds, on their migrations friom the \West ical appellation, and call it " the Lake Indies and other southern regions, after state." a long flight over the waters of the Lake George.- The most picturesque ocean. It happens also to lie in such a of the American lakes, lies just within latitude, that it is at once the northern the southern limit of the northern mountlimit of the tropical birds, and the south- ain ranges, and combines the wildness ern limit of the arctic. In winter the and sublimity of Scotch scenery with the eider-duck is found on Long island, the richness and beauty of native American little white goose, the cormorant, the forests, intermingled with occasional awk, and many others from the Arctic marks of progressive cultivation. Lake ocean; while in summer are to be seen George, the beautiful sheet of water to the turkey-buzzard, the swallow-tailed which we allude, is twenty miles in kite, the fork-tailed fly-catcher fiom length, and about one mile in width; Guiana, &c., &c. Here is also the nat- and is completely shut in by eminences ural limit of certain species of fish, of considerable elevation, which form a some from the north, and others from succession of bold scenery, as the travthe south. eller passes over the smooth surface in "American quadrupeds have attract- the steamboat which ploughs its crystal ed but little attention," remarks one of water. French mountain, at the souththe writers of the scientific reports, Dr. ern extremity, looks down upon the ruDekay, "until within a short period; ins of Forts George and William Henand were then, at first only noticed by ry, which were erected to repel the inforeigners. The few Americans who vasions of the people whose name the afterward began to procure specimens, mountain bears, in the colonial wars; sent most of them abroad, where only and several other peaks rise conspicuthey found them appreciated. De Li- ously below, and, at the Narrows, in the ancourt, De Chastellux, and some other middle of the lake, almost close up the mere travellers,did much; and such sci- passage, which is still more impeded by entific explorers as Bose, Kalm, Mi- numerous little islands of various forms, cheaux, and Pal de Beauvois, have done which seem, from a distance, like a much more. The Philadelphia Acade- fleet of light-boats, becalmed, on a parmy of Natural History, the Lyceum of ty of pleasure. New York, and other scientific societies The beautiful sheet of water was, in in'Boston, New Haven, and Salem, have former times, disturbed by scenes of accomplished much since their forma- war; and the remains of military works tion." The American Journal of Sci- near its southern extremity, with historence and the Arts, established and con- ical associations connected with different ducted by Prof. Silliman, has also pow- points on its shores, redouble the intererfully contributed to the cultivation of est of the intelligent traveller who rezoological study and research, as well sorts to its delightful borders, and glides as of other branches. over its glassy surface. The ruins ot Many remains of mammoth and other the two forts beforementioned, George extinct animals have been'found in the and William Henry, and which were! state of New York; and the only entire the scenes of important events, are seen skeleton of the mastodon ever obtained on its southern shore. was dug from the earth near Newburgh, Lake Champlain.-Lake Champlain, i in 1845 interesting from its historical associa-il 150 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. tions, is long and narrow, separates the and reality, all feel an equal interest in states of Vermont and New York, and scenes that were acted here. is distinguished for its beauty. Its wa- HIsToRY.-The history of this state ters are generally quiet, never being naturally itself divides into periods, wrought into anything more than gentle corresponding in general with those billows; and its width, being such that most remarkable in that of the older both shores are distinctly visible through colonies and states; and under each of its whole length, gives it somewhat the these many interesting and instructive appearance of a broad river. The cel- events and incidents are recorded, some ebrated fortresses of Ticonderoga and of which will be alluded to in their apCrown Point are on its southern por- propriate places. with that brevity which tion. In its wider parts, picturesque is made necessary by the nature of this little islands seem to rest on its bosom; work. Abundant sources of informathree of which, lying near together, tion are at hand, for any who wish to of similar size and shape, are called the pursue any branch of New York histo"Three Brothers." ry in detail; for no state in the Union, The "North and South Hero," are perhaps, is better furnished in this retwo larger islands, which occupy quite a spect, especially in works of recent considerable space in the length of the publication. Although fewer men of lake. They are inhabited by a numer- letters were found among the early inous population, and have their schools habitants in colonial times, numerous and churches. About three miles from historians, as well as other writers, have the Vermont shore, is a small island, in- I devoted their pens to subjects around habited by one family, who, lilie Sel- them; and within a few years the Hiskirk, " have none to dispute their right" torical Society has made great and very to their little secluded home. successful exertions to collect and preIn a passage up the lake, through serve records of all kinds, calculated to which ply the splendid steamboats on throw light upon any period of history. the grand route to Canada, you look out The legislature, at their invitation, sent upon two states at the same time. On an intelligent agent to Europe, a few the right is Vermont, with its verdant years ago, Mr. Brodhead, who brought shore; and in the distance are the back an invaluable collection of docu"Green mountains." On the left is the ments, in different languages, front th6 north part of New York, looking quite archives of Holland, France, aniu -lngas mountainous, and as much diversified land, respectively illustrating ftne periwith hills and dales, rich in mines of ads of Dutch settlement and rule, of iron, but still almost covered with for- English extension and French invasion. ests. On both shores, beautiful villages Future historians will find here a rich are frequently seen, stretching down to addition to previous anrllls, and the the water's edge, and adding much life means of correcting fornter errors and and interest to the landscape. None of illustrating numerous points which who pass up this lake, but fbel a pecu- require elucidation. liar interest in that part of it, where the Indian antiquities have been studied memorable " Battle of Plattsburgh" was with zeal, and are now prosecuted with fought. new advantages. Under the authority That part of the lake abounds in de- Iof the legislature, that well-qualified inlightful views, especially where we ap- vestigator, Heinry R. Schoolcraft, was proach Plattsburgh, and pass over the employed in 1846. to take a census of waters memorable as the scene of the the Indians in the state; and he collectnaval victory of Commodore M'Donough ed a mass of the frost valuable facts evover the British fleet under Commodore er obtained, relating to any family of Downie. War is to be deprecated in 1 the human race, illustrating the chanall its forms, and its existence'exceed- ges occurring in the transition state, ingly to be deplored, as a sad relic of from the savage toward the civilized barbarism; still, as events of history I conldition. 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In 1646, a batis strongly exhibited, as the grand civil- tle was fought at a place called Strick-. izing agent, and lessons of an impor- land's plain; and the savages were detant character are given, well calculated feated with great slaughter. The coloto guide philanthropists in their future hiies of New Haven and Connecticut undertakings in favor of the much-neg- were at this time disputing with the lected, abused, and belied race of red- Dutch; but, in 1650, a treaty was made men. at Hartford, by which the Dutch gave The reader must be referred for in- up their claim to the territory belongformation on the history of this state in ingr to those colonies, except the part all its different periods and epochs, to which they then occupied. the following authors among many oth- Five years after this the Swedes, who ers: Colden, Smith, Clinton, Campbell, had settled on the west side of the DelYates, Moulton, &c. Barber's volume I aware river, were attacked and subdued is well adapted to the common reader, by the Dutch governor, Stuyvesant, with abounding in local descriptions and an- a fleet of seven ships. But ere long, ecdotes, illustrated with many engra- the Dutch were met again by their old vings. We have here merely room to enemies the English. In 1664, in conallude to the chief events in the early sequence of the grant which Charles II. history of the colony. had given to his brother, the duke of Henry Hudson, an Englishman in the York and Albany, and which secured to service of the Dutch East India compa- him all the lands owned by the Dutch, ny, discovered the Hudson river in 1609, a squadron appeared in the harbor of and ascended it about one hundred and New Yolk, which was commanded by sixty miles. It was in consequence of Colonel Nichols. A surrender was imthis discovery, that the Dutch laid claim mediately demanded by the English, to the territory on both sides of the riv- who promised to secure the rights of er, and called it New Netherlands. life and property to the inhabitants. The position now known as Albany, The governor wished to make resistwas, in 1613, named by the few Dutch ance, but the inhabitants prevailed upon who discovered it and built a fort there, him to submit. The English thus took Fort Orange; and in the next year, sev- possession, and called it New York, in eral trading-houses were erected upon honor of the duke of York; and not Manhattan island (now New York), to long after Fort Orange was also taken, I which they gave the name of New Am- and named Albany. sterdam. Nichols now became governor; and The English were not well pleased his administration was mild and successby what they considered the intrusions ful. of the Dutch. They claimed that this We have not room to notice the suc- i part of the territory properly belonged cessive governors of the colony, nor the to Virginia; and, in the same year, various events which distinguished the Captain Argal came with a fleet of three successive periods, through the contests ships, and demanded the surrender of between England and other powers, the fort. They submitted without re- which had more or less influence on this sistance, because their numbers were side of the Atlantic. We can only revery few. But a new governor arrived fer, in their places, to some leading from Holland, and the Dutch would al- events in the French and the Revolulow the authority of the English no tionary wars, and in that with England longer, and they retained possession of 1812. until 1664. They built' Fort Good ALBANY.-This city presents several Hope on the Connecticut, at Hartford, superior claims to our attention. In and another on the Delaware, and then point of history it is the oldest settleI claimed a right to all the extensive re- ment by Europeans on the Hudson for, gions between these two rivers. unusual as it is in founding colonies, the But the Indians did not let the Dutch mouth of the stream was not occupied in~lJ 1IllllllIII!____ _.- ~.=__._ _____.~.. Al b a n- Fm-l —-— Aca-d-my. ____________ _____ _______ ______________________________ _____________ H _________________ _______________________________________________________________________ ______________________ Albay FmaleAcaemy i 154 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. by the Dutch until t ley had first estab- interior for the various stores brought; lished themselves at this place, one hun- from our own and foreign coasts. The dred and fifty miles and more firom the railroads come in with their share of' sea. This was the scene of many im- valuable freights; and Albany presents, portant councils andl treaties with the on every hand, abundant and gratifying Indians, especially the Five Nations; proofs of the sagacity of those enlightand in the grounds of the old capitol ened councils, which opened the grand were interred numerous savage memo- channels of commerce, for the wide and rials of peace and amity. During the lasting benefit of the state and the counFrench wars, Albany was often the try. grand point of rendezvous for the troops The Albany Female Institute. —This required of New England and New seminary was founded by private subYork, in military expeditions against scription, and has been a flourishing Canada. Burgoyne's expedition, in and useful institution, conferring a high 1777, had the capture of this city as its and solid education on thousands of the first object, after gaining possession of youths of this city and other places near Ticonderoga, and it was saved only by and distant. The plan, in some importhe battles of Saratoga. Albany has tant respects, was new: it being the been the capital of this state ever since design to afford, at the cheapest possible its formation; and here is the point at rate, a superior education on females of which concentrate the principal canals all ranks in society; and so successful and railroads of New York-the uniting has it proved, that several other institllink in the chains connecting the corm- tions have been formed in imitation of merce of the lakes with that of the it, which have in like manner been highgreat noltnern ports, Boston and New ly useful, particularly the Rutgers InstiYork. tute in the city of New York. Albany is well situated to make a T/he Albany Female Seminrary. —This striking appearance to a person ap- is another institution occupying a conmproaching by the river, or viewing it manding situation on the top of Capiifrom the opposite, elevated shores of tol hill, near the statehouse and several Greenbush. A crowded mass of houses other public buildings. It isfoundedon a seems to cover the entire declivity, which plan which does great credit to the rises suddenly fiom the level of the state of New York, which has so honshore to the summit, which is crowned orably distinguished itself by its liberal by the statehouse with its dome. The provision for the diffusion of education. bi oadest and perhaps the principal street The central Normal School is also es(State street), well built, with many tablished in Albany, andis doing imporlarge edifices, hotels, stores, and private tant good by preparing teachers for the residences, leads firom the base of the common schools. hill to the gates of the statehouse, start- Tl/e Cit/-Hall was built in 1832, of ing from the chief avenue of business, white marble firom Sing-Sing, quarried Market street, which extends, with sev- and hewn by the prisoners, with a baseeral parallel streets, far up and down ment, and a fagade with six Ionic ctIthe city, north and south. umns and a dome covered with gilding, The canal-basin occupies the frontof the only specimen of the kind in the the town for about one half its length, United States. The circular hall or ro- I being shut in fiom the river by the pier, tunda contain, a statue of Hamilton, which co'mmences at the north, and ter- copied from one by Greenough, which minates opposite the foot of State was destroyed in the New York exstreet. Hlere are seen mingling the change by the great fire. There are alboats of Lake Chamipla:n, Erie, and the so portraits of Clinton and Walter Ohio canal, with th: steamboats sent Scott inl relief, surrounded by emblems. friom New York; to tow them to the T/he State-Hall.-This edifice stands mouth of the river, Avhere many of them near the city-hall, and is one hundred exchange the abundant products of the and thirty-eight by eighty-eight feet, ~""J b" ~~-""' jl i!~L!i i lI ~I I I l i~~ t~1111ii/I,. /: ii 1 i i ti: II I li I_ _ _''' r II! iri I! I illT////litI I,'ItI I! "14~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~........................ i I!i i i I:''1 1 i~!11;1 -,iiiiill!ii'i " t~' Ir~ ~i,~ ~ - - l /i iiiiii iiF'll t,' I1i'li.,, Ii~ii i I IT,!'I~ ~~~~ I F ii~~~~~~~~~~I IIll l It i ir L Ii iiI'll Ij I::iiii i i1ii~jIi ~ ~ i i~~~~~~~~~ i it1~f A~'V' 4<1A r r I i It! ~ ~ ~ I''I'iI~ i I __ i~~~~~~~ ~ ~~,i IIii II /iI 156 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. and sixty-five feet in height. It is of ed this spot was one of the companiolns brick and stone, faced with marble, and of Hudson, Hardwicke Chrystance, who contains the offices of the comptroller, was sent from his vessel on an exploring treasurer, attorney-general, surveyor- party, in September, 1610. Tradition general, &c. says he landed somewhere near the Tile Capitol is constructed of stone, present North Market street. The traand cost one hundred and twenty thou- ding-house and fort was built that year sand dollars. It contains the chambers or the next on the northern extremity of the senate and the representatives, in of Boyd's island, a little south of the which are found full-length portraits of present ferry. It was, however, overWashington and the governors of New thrown and carried away by the flood, York. in the next season. A higher station There are six banks, and twenty-five was then chosen, on a hill two miles churches of different denominations. distant, at a place called "KidderhooghAThle Rensselaer llansion, is a venera- ten," by the Dutch, and by the Indians, ble edifice a mile north of the city, the " Ta-wass-a-gun-shee," or Lookout Hill. residence of the Patroons of that name, Another position was preferred ere long, proprietors of one of the great entailed and there Fort Orange was finally erectestates in this state, which have been ed. The spot is near South Market retained in several old Dutch families street, and near that now occupied by fi'om past generations. The estate em- the Fort Orange hotel. Eight large braces vast tracts of land in different cannon were mounted for defence, of counties, large portions of which occu- the sort then known to the Hollanders pied by tenants, at various rents, usual- by the name, "stien gestuckten," or ly small, and often trifling. Within a stone-pieces, because, as is said, they few years great dissatisfaction has been were capable of throwing large stones excited among the people, and, in 1845, instead of iron shot. bands of men, on this and other manors, But, for about twenty years after this armed and disguised, set the laws at de- occupation of the spot, the Dutch spent fiance, and committed some acts of vio- only the trading seasons at Fort Orange, lence, even murder. The militia were returning annually to their own country, called out, arrests made, and trials and with the products of their trade. In imprisonments at length suppressed the 1625, the Dutch West India company "anti-rent riots." offered large tracts of land to any perThe Indians knew Albany by the sons who would colonize the country, name of Scagh-neg,h-ta-da, which is said and great numbers came over between to express, in their language, " The End that time and the year 1635, from some of the Pine Woods;" and this term has of whom many of the principal families since been applied to Schenectady, the of the present day have derived their town at the western extremity of the names. elevated pine-barren tract which was, Wood was used in Albany in all buildthus alluded to, there fifteen miles across, ings except the fort until 1647. The and still almostuninhabited. TheDutch town was surrounded by a palisade for called the place Beaverwyck, on ac- about a century, and the strict laws recount of the principal article of the trade specting trade with the Indians, induced which they here carried on with the na- numbers of persons to remove to the tives; and afterward Willemstadt. The Schenectady Flats, where they could name Urania, or Fort Orange, was nev- trade with the natives with greater freeer extended to the town, it is affirmed, dom. The first church-building erected but confined to the small fort which was I was at the corner of State, Market, and erected by the Dutch on their first oc- Court streets, and, after being enlarged cupying this point. The present name several times was taken down in 1806, was conferred by the English, as has and the stone used in building the presbefore been remarked. It is supposed ent South Dutch church. The houses i that the first white mar. who ever visit- of Albany were built in the style of I I 1'.. __ =. ~~ —' —--— ~~ —--- - ~:~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~View of State Street, Albany.!~ ~ ~ ~ ~~_ — _-= ——. —;;I- I= 158 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. Holland, of small bricks, with the gable ley of that stream it proceeds to tlbe ends to the street, and troughs under Genesee at Rochester, and ovoward to the eaves projecting far over the streets. the Mountain Ridge, at Lockport, whezxe The D)utch language has not even yet it rises by five double locks to the level wholly fallen into disuse, in some fami- of Tonawanda creek, a tributary of TNilies. The city charter was granted in agara river, an(d, a part of the way, by 1686, and extended westward to the dis- the channel of the former, goes on to tance of a mile firom the river, and north- Lake Erie at Buffltlo. west to the north line of the manor of The canal is there about.500 feet highRensselaerwyck, being 13-1 miles in er than the Albany basin; 200 of which length. In 1S15 the limits were en- are attained at Schenectady, nearly 300 larged, by adding the small town of Col- at Canajoharie, and 400 at the Long onie. Poptlation, 1850, 51,000. Level, above Little Falls. Beyond that CANALs.-The Erie Canal was the are the only two descents on the route, first of any considerable extent in the and these are but small. United States, was planned and execu- Among the principal constructions on ted by the influence of Dewitt Clinton the route, are the grand embankment, and hi~ friends, and must ever be regard- near Rochester, 100 feet high and two ed as the result of labors creditable to miles long; the fine stone aqueducts at them and the state, the pefiod being one Little Falls and Rochester, the former in which much opposition was exci- 214 feet long, and the latter stretching ted against it, in consequence of the ig- across the Genesee, 900 feet, on nine norance of the people of works of that beautiful arches. At Buffalo, is a fine kind. The project of connecting the harbor, lined with spacious storehouses, navigation of the lakes with that of tthe crowded, in the season of navigation, Hudson, by means of a channel three with the numerous steamboats and othhundred and sixty-three miles long, al- er vessels employed in the navigation of most every foot of wnich was to be ex- the lakes. The branch fiom Syracuse cavated, and which mn.t be taken across extends through the great salt region; streams and over hills and valleys, ap- and there are several other branches. peared to many as visionary and ridicu- The Cramiplain Canal. —Parting from lous; but the difficulty of acquiring land the Erie canal at the junction, eight and of reconciling conflicting interests in miles from Albany, this important work the choice of routes, conspired to in- crosses the mouth of the Mohawk, passcrease the discouragement of the under- es through Waterford, and along the taking. Had the calculations of the xwest bank of the Hudson, at the foot of projectors been unfounded, the result the hilly range called Behmis's heights, would doubtless have discouraged imi- the scene of the battle of Saratoga, tators: but the Grand canal of New crosses it at Miller's Falls, to Fort EdYork has long been, and will ever be, ward (in the French wars known as the a monument of successful enterprise, Fiist Carrying Place), passes on to Fort transcending in its beneficial effects the Ann, or the Second Carrying Place, r vnst sanguine expectations. where it enters Wood Creek, following T IX-.e Erie canal was commenced in it to its mouth at Whatehall (formerly 1817, and finished in 1825. It extends Skeenesborough), at the southern exfiom the great basin at Albany north- tremity of Lake Champlain. The eleward, along the right bank of the Hud- vation overcome on this route is 150 feet, son, to the mouth of the Mohawk, and from which the descent is about 75 feet I thence rising, by nine double locks, to toward the north: the lake being about the level of the banks, crosses the MIo- that height above the river's level at A1lhawk twice by aqueducts and followvs bany. The length of the route is about i the valley of that stream to Rome. 60 miles. Thence it crosses to the Oswego river The Delaware and Hudson Canal.near Syracuse, whence the Oswego canal This canal commences at Rondout, and leads to Lake Ontario; and up the val- I extends to the Delaware river, having ~~~~~~~~~~~i Lr~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 159 Cascade Bridge, on the New York and Erie Railroad. been formed for the purpose of bringing chusetts railroad to Boston, and the Hudcoal to New York city from some of the son river road to New York city. Pennsylvania mines. THE NEW YORK AND ERIE RAILROAD.. The Delaware and Hudson canal was -This road extends fiom the Hudson begun in 1825, and finished in three river at Piermont, twenty-four miles years. It is 108 miles long, and ex- fiom New York city, through the sollthtends from Rondout, 90 miles from New ern tier of counties of the state (passing'York, to Port Jervis, on the Delaware, twice into Pennsylvania) to Dunkirk on a distance of 59 miles, then 24 miles up Lake Erie, a distance of five hundied its eastern bank, to Lackawana river, andl( forty miles, the latter pllace being and up that stream 25 miles to Hones- fi)rty-five miles southwest of Iluffalo.dale. In some places great expense A charter was obtained for this road ill has been laid out' in blatings. A rail- 1832. The conipany was organized in road of 14 miles connects its extremity 1833, and the r,oute was surveyed in with Carbondale, Pennsylvania. The 1834. The road was commenced in canal is fiom 32 to 36 feet wide, 4 deep, 1836; but was suspended soon after in with locks 9 feet by 76, for boats of 25 consequence of the commercial revulsion or 30 tons. of'1836-'d7.-But aided by a loan of the RAILROADS.-A continuous line of credit (If the state of three millions it railroads now extends fiom Albany to was recommenced in 1841, and succesBuffalo, with branches, firom several sive portions of the road put in operation points, connecting with the great Massa- from time to time till it was finally com 16, DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. i pleted and opened to the public its en- work forms one of the most important tire length, in April, 1851. means of transport and travelling within The cost of the Erie railroad, as the limits of the state. It passes along stated in the report of the directors, up the valley of the Hudson river close to to April, 1851, was $20,500,000; of its eastern bank. It is one hundred and which $2,500,000, at least, is chargeable forty-four miles long. to equipment-account. The amount of T/he New York and New Haven Railcapital stock issued is $5,790,000, leav- road affords an uninterrupted line of railing the remainder of cost, in the form road to Boston, through Connecticut. of bonds and other debts against the There are several other roads within company, $14,710,000; exclusive of the the state, which our limits will not perthree millions loaned by the state, and mit us to describe. relinquished to the co(mpany on condi- SEMINARIES OF LEARNING AND RELItions which have now been complied GION.-Ere concluding this brief notice with; and $750,000 relinquished by the of the public affairs of the state, a few original stockholders on certain condi- facts may be applopriately added retions, in 1845, making the total cost of specting this important department. the road and equipments $24,250,000; Universities and Colleges.-Columbia although the liabilities are only about college, in the city of New York, was $20,500,000. founded in 1754; Union college at The immense importance of this road Schenectady, in 1795; Hamilton colcan scarcely be estimated. It opens a lege at Clinton, Oneida county, in 1812; trade with fertile regions hitherto diffi- Geneva college at Geneva, in 1824; and cult of access, while it will bring to New the New York university, in the city of York a large part of the increasing New York, in 1831; Madison univerproducts of the lake counties, so dispro- sity founded at lfarnilton, in 1820; and portioned to the capacities of the Erie Rochester university at Rochester, in canal, even when enlarged under the 1850, with an endowment of $150,000. recent act of the legislature. The universities and colleges are unCASCADE BRIDGE (a view of which is der the inspection of the regents of the given overleaf), is situated 188 miles university of the state, and have the disfrom New York, and 271- fiom Dun- tribution of the literary fund. kirk. It cost about $70,000 antd is the Theological Seminaries.-Lutheran work of John Fowler. This stupendous at Hartwick, in 1816; Protestant Episstructure consists of a single arch, 250 copal in New York, 1819; Baptist at feet in width, thrown over a ravine 184 Hamilton, 1820; Presbyterian at Aufeet in depth. The span of the arch has burn, 1821; rUnion at New York, 1834; a rise of fifty feet, and far surpasses in Roman Catholic at Fordham, 1840. width any other in the world, construct- Medical Colleges. —There are two in ed of timber. This ravine is very nar- the city of New York: viz., the college row, and is approached and crossed so of' physicians and surgeons, and the rapidly, that a person in the cars can New York school of medicine; and a form no idea of the bridge itself, though third at Fairfield, called the college of he may judge of the depth of the gulf by physicians and surgeons for the western a glance at the tops of the trees, descend- distlict, and another at Buffalo. ing, row by row, to the rocky, thread-, Academies are numerous, and the like stream at the bottom of its gloomy principal ones are under the direction jaws. Instead of resting upon fiail piers of the state, and make annual reports erected by the hand of man, each leg of of scientific observations, &c. the arch is supported on and in deep Normal Seminary.-At Albany is a shelves hewn in the solid rock, that rises, central school for the instruction of comwall-like, on both sides of the chasm; mon-scho)ol teachers. Here also is puband while these eternal foundations lished a journal for the benefit of the stand, so will the bridge. schools, extensively diffused among teachThe Hudson River Railroad. —This ers and school officers. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 161 COMMON SCHOOLS. —The first report accrue to the citizens in general, from'o the legislature, showing the number the institution of schools in various parts jand condition of the schools in New York, of the state, for the purpose of instruct)was made in 1798, when the number of ing children in the lower branches of schools in the state was but about 1,500 education, such as reading their native fnd the number of scholars about 60,000. language with propriety, and so much The first appropriations for common of writing and arithmetic, as to enable schools was made inl 1795, and was on a them, when they come forward into acscale of liberality which shows a just tive life, to transact with accuracy and appreciation of the importance of this despatch, the business arising from their fundamental interest in the infancy of daily intercourse with each other." the state. The sum appropriated was And this, less than sixty years ago, $50,000 annually for five years. In was the highest view of popular educa1805, a permanent school fund was tion entertained in a state, which now founded by the appropriation of half a has its noble and munificently-endowed million of acres of the vacant lands of seminaries and colleges, its armies of the state. The annual retuins fiom the teachers, and its hundreds of thousands school districts were incomplete till 1817, of pupils. when there was 5,000.schools, and over SCHENECTADY.-This is one of the 200,000 scholars, exclusive of the city oldest towns in the state, and was for a of New York. In 1821, the number of long time important as a frontier posipupils had increased to over 300,000; tion, nothing but a wilderness being and since that period the increase in the found between it and Canada. For a number of schools, and of children in- number of years it has been distinguishstructed, has borne a neat proportion ed as the seat of one of the most flourto the increase of population, till by the ishing literary institutions in the state, last report of the state superintendent of Union college, the edifices of which occommon schools, the number of school cupy a pleasant and commanding posidistricts is shown to be near 12,000, and tion, over'looking the extensive meadows the children instructed, about 800,000. of the Mohawk, surrounded by a sucThe annual appropriation from the in- cession of undulated and hilly country, come of the p}ermanent fund is now and enlivened by the Erie canal and the $300,000 and from taxes $S00,000, of lines of railroads which here meet by which $55,000 is appropriated to the vaious routes from Albany, and proceed purchase of school libraries and appa- on in company, with occasional separaratus, atnd the remainder is applicable tions, to Rochester, and finally tertninate exclusively to the payment of teachers' together at Buffalo. wages and the support of schools. In the year 1769, Schenectady, while Since the fouiidation in 1835, the dis- a mere village, fifteen miles west of Altrict libraries have grown to the amount bany, garrisonled by a few troops, was of 1,500,000 volumt.s. The benefits of the victim of the jealousies and contenthese depositories )fi itelligence. accessi- tions of those sent for its protectiont; for ble to every mind in the state, can never the soldiers having deserted their posts, be adequately estimated. They will be one of those secret predatory bands of abundant in the fruits of industry, vir- savages, which were long the scourge tue, and refinement, through all coming of our fiontier settlements, led on by generations. Frenchmen from Canada, fell upon it in A striking illustration of the progress the dead of night, massacred almost evof education in this state is found in ely man, womatt, and child, andil burnt looking at the views of her early states- their dwellings. A few fugitives escamen as to the degree of instruction to be ped, and carried the shocking tale to provided in the common schools. The Albany. regents of the university, in 1793, sug- The exposed state of the country gest to the legislature "the numerous west of this place was so great, and the advantages which they conceive would number of the people so small compar.. _~~~~~~~~1 162 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. ed with the extent of unoccupied land, and the grounds beyond are shaded that inducements were not found to ex- with large and fine trees. The uppe.r tend settlements fast beyond this point; rooms in the main building are occupiand even down to the period of the ed by the Lyceum society, and for sci:Revolutionary war, nearly the whole entific purposes. middle and western parts of New York CooPERSTOWN.-Th is pleasant vilwere included in a single county. lage, two hundred miles from New A few scattering villages only were York, by way of Catskill, and sixty-six then to be seen, at Cooperstown, Johns- from Albany, enjoys a beautiful situatown, &c., &c., usually with block hou- tion on Otsego lake, on a gentle cmises, or other slight means of protection, nence at its south end, backed by a hilprovided against the apprehended dan- ly range of considerable elevation, in gers of savage parties. The five na- which the cleared and cultivated land tions of Indians, viz., the Mohawks, is agreeably mingled with the forests. Oneidas, Cayugas, Onondagas, and Sen- The streets, broad anl straight, are well ecas, who had been, for the most part, shaded with trees, and lined with dwelfriendly to the English through the ling-houses, many of them of rather an French wars, were, many of them, old and venerable appearance. To the drawn over to the British interest by Indians it is said to have been a favorite John Johnson, one of the sons of Sir place of resort. William Johnson, who had long exer- The first white inhabitant was Mr. cised the most important influence over John Christopher Hardwick, who resithose savage people. By the aid of the ded here for a short time, about ten celebrated Brandt, a half-blood of doubt- years before the Revolutionary war; but ful character and courage, a series of in 1788, the first permanent settlement calamities was brought upon those weak was made by Mr. William Cooper; and and defenceless settlements, which can two years later, the county of Otsego not be recounted without exciting the was formed, of which this town is the mingled feelings of commiseration and capital. Remains of a road are still to horror. But, for those, events, as well be seen, which was cut through the foras for other particulars, relating to the est by a brigade of General Sullivan's history of that now populous and pros- army, from Fort Plain to the head of perous portion of the state, we must re- Otsego lake; and at the outlet are some fer our readers to the works of Mr. traces of a dam constructed by the Campbell (a descendant of a family of troops, at the direction of their comthe sufferers), the Life of Colonel Wil- mander, General Clinton, by which the let by his son, and the Life of Brandt, water was made to rise, and then, the by Mr. Stone. dam being broken down, allowed it to Schenectady Lyceum.-This institu- rush down in a torrent, which cleared tion (a view of which is given on the the channel of the incumbrances of logs opposite page) was erected a few years that impeded the passage. since, to supply a deficiency, long felt, Cooperstown is deservedly admired in a city so long and so honorably dis- by travellers, and annually the resort of tinguished as the seat of a seminary of citizens, seeking the pleasures of the the highest class. It is designed for the country in the summer season. The instruction of boys in studies preparato- population however is small, the numry to college and business; and enjoys ber of dwelliul-houses beingonly about an advantageous and convenient situa- a hundred and sixty. The people are tion. The principal building is of an distinguished for their refinement and octagonal form, of brick stuccoed, in a courteous manners. fanciful Gothic style, with pointed doors Cooperstown may be taken as a faand windows, and surmounted by a stee- vorable specimen of one of the several ple. In advance of this, and of the classes of New York villages: such as line of the yard-fence, are two small have grown up since the Revolutionary buildings belonging to the institution; war, and have no associations with the __ 2 ~~~~~-/11 ~ 11~~~~~~1~~ - ILi 00~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~' -i i!I "i ~~~_ ~~ II 164 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. sufferings and dangers of the earlier valuablf "Annals of Tryon County,'" settlements, and yet removed from ca- are painful in the extreme, but yet valu-. nals and railroads, and every other in- able to impress future generations with fluence which might have given it a abhorrence of war, and especially that; rapid growth or sudden and great pros- unwarrantable practice, in which sever'perity. Left to the steady but slow al civilized nations have engaged, of improvement of an agricultural neigh- hiring savages to exercise their bloodborhood, it presents fewer evidences of thirsty ferocity upon the innocent and increase in wealth or numbers, but is defenceless. The sketch given in that less liable to some of the evils incident work, of the history of the settlement, to many other places. and the character of the people, renders There are a few small manufactories their fate the more deeply interesting. along the banks of the outlet of the We shall here introduce an account lake, where about eight thousand spin- abridged from its pages. dies are employed in cotton-spinning, The survey was made in 1739, and and on that of Oak creek, one of the the ground first occupied by Mr. Lindenumerous small streams in this county, say, a Scotch gentleman, of some formost of which flow southward into the tune and distinction. He took with Susquehannah. him his wife and his father-in-law, a Mr. Otsego county is hilly, and in some Congreve, a lieutenant in the British parts mountainous, being crossed by the army. The low ground was then covSusquehannah and Kaatsberg ranges. ered with a thick forest of beech and There is much good grass land. Lime- maple, mingled with wild-cherry trees, stone is found near Schuyler's lake in the highlands With evergreen; and the Cherry Valley, and iron ore in several native wild animals, even the deer, elk, places. bears, and wolves, undisturbed by civilCherry Valley is one of those unfor- ized man, ranged through the woods, tunate villages which suffered fiom In- being hunted only occasionally by the dian barbarity in the Revolutionary Mohawks. The settlers sought the war; and it may be noticed in this friendship of the wild men, and with place. It is fourteen miles northeast of success. In the winter of 1745, while Cooperstown, and fifty-three west of Al- the snow lay very deep, and the journey bany, amidst the high and irregular to the nearest neighbors, on the Mohawk ground which gives rise to Canajoharie river, 15 miles off,'was impossible fbr creek and several other early tributaries any of the family, all the provisions of the Mohawk, with the head stream were consumed, and nothing but famine of that river. Several vales lie between and death were in prospect. An Indithe neighboring hills, which possess a an, travelling on snowshoes, bccoming fertile soil; and one of these, with the acquainted with their situation, supplied wild cherry-trees that naturally abound- them with food through the remainder ed in the neighborhood, gave to the of the season, by bringing, repeatedly, place its pleasing name. loads upon his back all that distance. It happened to lie so exposed and dle- The following year, the settlement fenceless, in the early years of its histo- was increased, by the addition of severry, that it shared in the dangers of the al Scotch and Irish families, who reother scattering settlements in the neigh- moved from Londonderry, in New borino region, and was finally surprised Hampshire, at the invitation of the Rev. by a band of Indians, led by the notori- Samuel Dunlop, one of their countryous Col. Butler,firom Canada, and fell men, a gentleman of education and under a general and indiscriminate mas- travel, who had been induced by the sacre, in which whole families, men, present of a large tract of land, to join women, and children, bled under the Mr. Lindesay. They brought an additomahawk. tion of thirty persons, and the aspect of The particulars given of this mourn- the place was speedily improved by ful tragedy by Wm. WT. Campbell, in his their industry. A house was built of 0~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 165 legs, for religious use, on the declivity on his way to the fort, was pursued and Lf a little hill, near the house of the scalped by one of the enemy. The pastor, whose support was secured by Senecas, who were the most fierce of the payment of tell shillings for every the Five Nations, were foremost in the hundred acres of land, added to prod- attack. They assailed the house of Mr. ucts of' his own lalor, aInd the voluntary Robert Wells, and killed the whole famcontributions of his i)arisliorels. ily within, consisting of the father and In 1744, Mr. Conlgreve joined the mother, four children, his brother, sisBritish army as lieltenlnt, in place of ter, and three domestics. A little son his father-in-law; and Mr. Dulllp open- alone remained, who had been sent to ed the first grammar-school in the state school at Schenectady. He was afterwest of Albany, at which were taught ward a distinguished counsellor of New a number of boys firom the settlements York city, the Hon. John Wells. Miss on the Mohawk. Several of these were Jane Wells, the sister of the proprietor distinguished men in the Revolutionary of the house, and a young lady of supewar. rior character and exalted piety, having In 1778, the apprehensions of an in- escaped by the door, sought safety in vasion from Canada was general in the woodpile; but an Indian discovered Tryon county; and, on account of the her, and, after deliberately wiping his weakness of this solitary village, num- scalping-knife on his legging, sheathed hers of the inhabitants left their homes it, and seized her by the arm, at the for places of greater safety. In the au- same time, brandishing his tomahawk. tumn, however, the danger being sup- The captive remonstrated with him in posed to be past, they returned. But the Indian language, with which she had an expedition had been prepared at some acquaintance; and one of the toMontreal, consisting of seven hundred ries among the invading party, named tories and Indians, who proceeded, with Peter Smith, who had once lived with Brandt and Butler at their head. Ru- the family of Mr. Wells as a servant, mors of their approach spread a new interposed and begged the savage to alarm; but Colonel Alden, commander spare her life, pretending that she was of a few soldiers, stationed at Cherry his sister. But this availed only to proValley, refused to admit the women and cure a short delay. The next moment children into the fort, and to quiet their the interesting young lady fell dead apprehensions, sent out a scouting par- from a blow of the tomahawk. ty, who were surprised asleep, and cap- The house of the venerable pastor tured by the more cautious enemy. was entered by the enemy, and his aged The invaders, on the 10th, reached a wife immediately put to death; but one hill, a mile southwest from the fort, of the Mohawk chiefs, named Little Aawhere they remained concealed till the ron, led him out of the house, and kept next day; and then, having learned from him under his protection. An Indian, their prisoners, that the officers lodged I running by, pulled off the old gentlein several dwelling-houses in the vil- man's hat; and the chief pursued him lage, made preparations to surround and brought it back. The old man was them all by small parties, while the thus rescued from massacre; but the main body should assail the fort. Mr. shock he received was so great, that, Hamble, who was that morning riding although hle was set at liberty soon after, into the village, being unable to discov- he died a few months subsequently. er distant objects, in consequence of the The fort was not taken by the enemy; hazy weather, and the falling sleet, was but, on the first alarm, a gun was fired fired upon and wounded by some of the from it, which gave intimation of the Indians, and hastening on his horse, attack. gave the alarm to Colonel Alden, and One of the householders, Mr. Mitchthen turned for the fort. The colonel, ell, discovered the enemy, while at a who had always discredited the reports distance from his house; and finding it of danger, still doubted them; but, I impossible to reach it, he escaped to the 166 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. woods, and remained concealed until the level on the Erie canal, the rocky shorn savages had accomplished their work of has been excavated, and lofty walls destruction, and taken their departure. erected, and sufficient breadth gained, On returning home, a sad spectacle to conduct that noble work, by successive met his view-the bodies of his wife locks, down to the level which exand four children. The house was burn- tends below. The railroad has since ing, but he succeeded in extinguishing found a path for its more rapid vehicles; the fire. On examining the bodies, he and now the roar of the river mingles found evidences of remaining life in one with the sounds of the locomotive and of them-his little daughter. He imme- the bugles of the boatmen. diately raised her, and endeavored to The accompanying engraving gives an resuscitate her; but just then, observing accurate and pleasing view of the natusome of the enemy approaching, he con- ral scenery, and some of the works of cealed himself, and, when they came art, which stand in such striking contrast up, saw one of them, a tory, named in this picturesque and remarkable pass. Newbury, strike the innocent little vic- The village in the distance is that of tim with his hatchet, and thus put an Little Falls, which takes its name from end to his last hope. The next day the the continued series of cascades, by disconsolate father, wholly unassisted, which the Mohawk here finds its way removed all the corpses, on a sled, to to the meadows stretching through the the fort, where the soldiers assisted him eastern valley. The principal fall on to inter them. The same Newbury was this stream, the Cohoes, near its mouth, executed for his crimes the next year, makes these comparatively second in on the testimony of Mr. Mitchell, having importance; and hence the term by been arr sted when engaged as a spy, which they are distinguished. The in the arin y of General Clinton, at Can- channel is in several places divided by ajoharie. rocks and islands, of rough and ragged Mr. Campbell's house was attacked, forms, which bear the appearance of and his family were taken into captivity. having been worn away by the force of He was absent; but, although he hast- a current far more deep and impetuous ened homeward on hearing the gun fired than any now ever produced by the rivin the fort, he arrived too late to render er, even at its highest floods; and the any assistance. The number of inhab- descent of the channel is so great as to itants killed was thirty-two, and of sol- render the passage impossible, even in diers sixteen. A few persons escaped small boats. to the Mohawk, and the remainder were It is, therefore, doubly interesting to made captive. The buildings were all the spectator to observe the triumph of burned, the settlement was laid waste, art, with the obstacles of nature which and abandoned by the survivors, un- have been overcome, in full view. If til more peaceful times. passing through this dark, wild, and roLITTLE FALLs. —This is one of the mantic gorge, in a canal-boat, he glides favorite spots with travellers of taste; smoothly along upon the glassy surface and there are but few points at which are of the canal, and here and there is gradassembled, within so narrow a space, ually raised or let down, by the locks, such a display of picturesque scenery, from one level to another, without injury with so many works of useful science or inconvenience, by the same element and art. Here the Mohawk river, hav- which is seen, in its natural, untamed ing reached the eastern boundary of the state, rushing and raving furiously berich German Flats, once the bottom of low. Or, if he is a passenger in one a lake, pours through the descending, of the cars which pursue the railroad rocky channel cut by the current, where track, from the other side of the river he the waters, in some long-past age, found beholds the same scene, from a different an outlet through their ancient barrier. but no less striking point of view, and, Here, to form an artificial passage for in a few moments, makes a rapid transiboats arriving at the end of the Long tion from one to the other of those ~)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Y Village of Litt le al. Villageof Litte Falls .j8 DESCRIPTION OF TIE STATE OF NEW YORK. smooth and fertile meadows which ex- are found at many similar spots. One of tend alone the banks of the Mohawk, at these is two and a half feet in diameter, different levels, above and below the beginning at the top of a rock thirty feet falls. above the present level of the river; ()ne of the high hills on the southern and, being broken below, allows a visbank of the liver, at this place, has a re- iter to see the slay above, through the markable cave; and the geological fea- whole length of the funnel. The canal tures of the region are worthy of atten- descends at this place by five locks, each tion. Beautiful crystals of quartz are of eight feet lift. found in the neighborhood, in consider- In 1789, several prisoners were taken able abundance, and are washed from by a party of Indians, at a mill; but the micaceous slate by every rain. Pas- two men escaped, by retreating under sengers in the rail-cars sometimes have the waterwheel, whence the savages an opportunity to purchase a few, of could not dislodge them. the children who take pains to collect RoME.-This village was named at a them. time when unfounded expectations were The Marble Aqueduct, two hundred entertained of its rapid and extensive and fourteen feet long, and sixteen feet growth. Its populllation, in 1850, about wide, is one of the best-constructed and 6,000 It occupies a place of great imbeautiful works on the line of the canal, portance in the French and Revolutioncrossing the Mohawk on five large arch- ary wars, as it was one of the carryinges, to bring over a supply of water fiom places on the ancient Indian route bethe old canal on the northern bank. tween Lake Ontario and the Mohawk, The central arch is seventy feet span. by the way of Oneida lake and WVood Few constructions can be found which creek. The Black-river canal (an impresent to the eye, in so forcible a con- portant work) passes the village, as well trast, the rude obstacles of nature with as the railroad and Erie canal. The symmetry and beauty of useful art. ground is the summit-level between The first settler in this wild spot was Lake Ontario and the ocean, four huna Scotch gentleman, Alexander Ellis, dred and thirteen feet above the Hudwho, by the aid of Sir William Johnson, son at Albany, from which it is distant obtained a patent of the surrounding one hundred and twelve miles. The tract. The river makes a descent of United States arsenal, and barracks for forty-two feet, by two rapids, within the one thousand men, were built in 1813. distance of two thirds of a mile, with a Fort Stanwix (of which only some broad interval of smooth and deep wa- marks remain in the soil) was erected ter. Above these is a dam, divided by in 1758, and was at first merely a square an island, over which the water pours fort, with four bastions, a covered way in small cascades. The romantic pass and glacis, surrounded by a palisaded which opens through the ridge of mount- ditch. It cost 6266,400, but, through ains, is about two miles in length, and neglect, was in ruins at the beginning of an average breadth of only five hun- of the Revolution. Having been hastily dred yards, while rough and woody repaired, and named Fort Schuyler, on heights, rises on each side nearly four the 3d of August, 1777, it was invested hundred feet. Everything here, and by Colonel St. Leger, with a large mixed above and below, indicates that a lake force from Canada, comprising one thouonce covered the great German Flats; sand Indians. Colonel Ganzevoort, howand it is calculated that, if a dam were ever, resolutely refused to surrender; now built here seventy feet high, that and, although in command of only seven rich and extensive alluvial tract would hundred and fifty men, sent out Colonel soon be overflown, and the new lake Willet to make a diversion in favor of would find an outlet through Wood General Herkimer, who was advancing creek into Oneida lake and Ontario. to his relief, and with such success that The rocks are deeply worn, often by the enemy were driven from their camp, large and deep circular drills, such as leaving their baggage and even papers. __!_ A.,_,.._ A.. __ _ =. _.. _ _ _._~~~~~~~~~~ A.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~11 170 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. Twenty wagon-loads of spoils were with neat yards and gardens; while the brought into the fort. The invaders, hotels are large, and the point where however, returned, and the siege was the canal and railroad pass the principal closely pressed; but Colonel Willet and street is one of great activity and busMajor Stockwell succeeded in passing tle. The view in every direction is ove:r by stealth through the midst of the ene- an extent of level ground, and bounded my, and reached General Sullivan's by the hills enclosing the valley of the camp at Stillwater, who sent General Mohawk. Arnold with assistance. That sagacious CLINTON.-The pleasant village of officer (afterward a traitor) so terrified Clinton, situated nine miles from Utica, the invaders by exaggerated reports, is the seat of Hamilton college. This that they fled in a panic, and failed in institution owes its origin to the Rev. their enterprise as utterly as General Samuel Kirkland, a missionary to the Burgoyne, to co-operate with whom,they Oneida Indians. He was one of the had come from Canada. pupils of the celebrated school of Mr. UTICA.-This city, situated on the Wheelock, and graduated at Princeton southern bank of the Mohawk, occupies in 1765. In the following year he reone of the important points where the moved to this place, and commenced a. line of the Erie canal and the railroad long, self-denying, and successful course coincide, and are crossed by several of missionary labors among the Oneidas, country roads. It has the additional over whom he obtained a strong and advantage of lying on a tract of fertile beneficial influence, 6f great importance land,-the river alluvion in that country in the Revolutionary war. While the being broad and rich. It is ninety-six other nations of the savage confederacy miles west of Albany, and two hundred joined the English, the Oneidas remainand forty-one miles from New York. ed true to our cause. After the peace Fort Schuyler, an earth work, thrown had been restored, he received a grant up here in the old French war, was the of land in this place and neighborhood, first point ever occupied here by white called Kirkland's patent, and again took men; but, as Whitestown, for some up his residence here in 1792. years after its settlement, was the prin- The remarkable chief Skenandoa, cipal place of resort in this region, as with many of his people, became intellate as 1793, there were but three dwel- ligent Christians under the instructions lings in Utica. Rome was afterward of their devoted pastor. In 1793, he obmarked out, as the site of a future city; tained a charter for a seminary of learnbut, although the Western Inland Nay- ing, designed for Indians as well as igation company, chartered in 1792, whites, under tile title of the Hamilton opened a canal fiom the bend of the Oneida academy, which has since been Hudson here to Oneida lake, and ex- raised to the rank of a college. pectations were entertained of a great TRENTON FALLs.-The West Canada trade taking that direction, in 1800, the creek, in flowing through a long, deep, Seneca turnpike was opened through and narrow ravine, presents a succession Utica, which gave the latter place the of wild and romantic scenes, so strikiiig advantage. It has continued to increase and so interesting, that this region has ever since. The population in 1830 was been for some years a favorite point of 8,323, and in 1850, 17,240. It was observation to travellers of taste in the made a village in 1798, when it receiv- western tour. It is common for parties ed the name of Utica, and it was incor- to stop at Utica, and devote a day to an porated as a city in 1832. It contains excursion to Trenton Falls. The stream fourteen churches, three banks, numer- makes successive falls, four of which are ous stores, and a number of handsome the most considerable, but all varying private houses, with much refined and in form and appearance. The largest intelligent society. The streets of is two miles northwest from TrentonvilUtica are generally pleasant, many of lage, where, within a short distance, it them being planted with trees and lined is precipitated down three perpendicuIL DESCRIP'SION yf THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 171 i;c e.ks, rushing over the intermediate I phate of lime, 2 pounds, 4 ounces; mup),.Cb6 by steep1 and rough channe's, in riate of lime, 1 pound, 12-1 ounces; and C Lrius and turbulent manner. The probably some muriate of magnesia and frst of the falls is forty-seven feet in Julphate of soda. height, the second cleven, and the third The water is raised fiom the spring forty-eight; and suc'h is the variety in by a forcing-pump; and distributed the directions of the sh3cts of water and through pipes and troughs to numerous tihe surrounding objects in that wild and maLufactories, large and small, of differsecluded dell, which is shut in on both eat kinds, in the villages of Salina and sides by perpendicular banks of dark Syr'azuse, and a considerable tract of limestone, from one hundred to one hun- land lying between them. In some died and thirty feet in height, that the places are seen large buildings, in which impressions made on the mind of a the water is evaporated by artificial spectator are at once awful and pleas- heat; but the greater part is exposed, lug. in shallow wooden vats, to the heat of I SYRCUSE.-This is alarge and flour- the sun, being covered by sliding roofs ishing village on the Erie canal, one when threatenied by rain. A branch of hundred and thirty-three miles west of the Erie canal affolds the means of easy Albany, at the junction of the Oswego transportation, and immense quantities canal. Population, 1850 22,236. of salt are annually transported to all The great Salt-Spring, at Salina, is parts of the country. the most valuable in the Union, as it is The vats are about sixteen by seven abundant in water, very highly charged, feet, and four inches deep, and are supand the supply is taken to numerous plied with water sent from pump-houses manufactories, where the salt is extract- through hollow logs. Between the rows ed and purified by the most approved of vats, sufficient space is left for carts processes. to pass, in which the salt is removed. The spring rises on the marshes of The salt made in this manner is coarse; Salina lake, a salt pond, six miles long that formed by artificial heat is fine. and two in breadth, whose waters are From fifteen to twenty-five boilers are impregnated to such a degree that its used, usually placed in rows, which are shores are liied with plants usually found supplied with salt water much in the only on the- borders of the sea. The same manner as the vats; and heat is lake is surrounded by limestone hills, applied below, where fires are kindled containing petrifactions; and gypsum in furnaces. In some manufactories, aboundsin the neighborhood. The spot steam-pipes are used for heating, and is a portion of that extensive region pass through the water. The new spring which reaches from the Atlantic to the at Salina yields water more strongly imPacific, between the latitudes of thirty- pregnated with salt than the old spring; one and forty-five degrees north, whose that is, in the proportion of fifty to sevcourse is here and there betrayed by enty. Fresh water being reckoned at 0, brine springs. In this state, such and water saturated with salt at 100, springs exist in the counties of Onon- a cubic foot of water from the new daga, Cayuga, Seneca, Ontario, Niaga- spring yields fourteen pounds of salt. ra, Genesee, Tompkins, Wayne, and Two mills on every bushel here are Oneida; but that of Salina is by far the to be paid to the state for pumping most valuable and productive. Accord- the water, and six cents a bushel on all ing to published statements, a bushel of the salt made. About three millions of salt may be obtained from forty-five gal- bushels are manufactured annually; and lons of water; and analysis gives the the business, in all its branches, occufollowino results for forty gallons: — pies about three thousand /nen, in the Weight, 355 pounds; salinte matter of four villages of Syracuse, Salina, (ledall kinds, 56 pounds. Of this, muriate desburgh, and Liverpool. of soda is 51 pounds; carbonate of lime, A French colony for the Onondaga colored by oxyde of iron, 61 ounces; sul- country was planned in the year 1655, 172 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. by the Jesuit Dablon, who procured at base, four feet thick. On the souther'n Quebec fifty soldiers, under the cornm- side there is a small creek, from which, mand of Lieutenant Lawson, and set by means of a wheel and shaft, power out with them the next year, to under- enough is obtained to work all the matake one of their missions at this place. chinery inside of the walls. The prison Under so powerful a guard, with the consists of two wings, and the main approbation of the Jesuit superior-gen- body of the house, which forms three eral, Francis Le Mercier, the expedition sides of a square; the wings being two sailed up the river; but it was attacked hundred and forty feet long, and twentyby four hundred Mohawks, before they five feet deep, and the house two hunreached Montreal, who were jealous of dred and eighty feet long. It was begun the Onondagas, by whom the enterprise in the year 1S16, and the cost was five was encouraged. The Indians being hundred thousand dollars. The exrepulsed, the party proceeded; and, af- penses of the prison, in the year 1839, ter some delays and dangers, arrived at were $51,671.21, and the money that the appointed place of settlement. This was earned in the same year was $60,is supposed to have been on the borders 161.46. The prisoners number, in the of Salina lake, as mention is made of a course of a year, from six to seven hunsalt-spring. They were for a time very dred. Every sabbath they are instructkindly treated by the Onondagas, who ed in the great truths of the Bible, inhabited this region. Scarcely two and the younger portion are taught readyears, however, had elapsed, before ing, writing, and arithmetic. When strong symptoms of hostility were ex- this prison was first built, there were hibited; several murders were commit- five hundred and fifty cells; but lately ted, and a large army of the Six Nations a few more have been added. These was assembled. cells are arranged in four stories, and The colonists became alarmed, and are seven feet high, seven feet long, and resolved on flight. By practising the three and a half feet wide. They are greatest caution and secresy, they suc- very well warmed, lighted, and ventilaceeded. Canoes were made with all ted, and everything fixed for the comfort haste in the house of the Jesuit, and a of the prisoners. The space between young Frenchman, who had been adopt- the cells arid the outside wall is ten feet ed by the Indians, and enjoyed their full wide, and is open from the. roof to the confidence, persuaded them to make a ground. The passages to the cells are great feast; at the close of which they three feet wide, extending out from the betook themselves to sleep; and when wall in front of each cell. They being they awoke the next day, their intended constructed in this manner, perfect sivictims were not to be found. Having lence can be preserved through the launched their canoes in the night, and night, as the slightest noise or whisper taken their young countryman with is heard by the watchman on guard bethem, the colonists got such a start of low. This precaution is taken in order their enemies, that they arrived in safety to prevent any conversation during the at Montreal. night. The same care is taken in the AuBURN.-This beautiful village, sit- daytime, for they are made to work uated on Owasco lake, is worthy of the without speaking. The prison-bell rings pleasing associations connected with its soon after daybreak, which is a signal name, which Goldsmith's favorite poem for the prisoners to rise, and soon after has celebrated. Population, 9,548. the keeper unlocks the doors. The The stateprison, located here, is quite prisoners then come out of their cells, a handsome building. It stands back each one taking his pan that is used for about eighty feet from the road, and his food, his kettle for water, and his covers, including the grounds, about tub. They then put these different twenty-five thousand square feet. The things in their respective places, and in wall that surrounds it is two thousand lockstep walk to the workshops, where feet long, thirty feet high, and, at the they work until the prison-bell rings 11 JIM,~I it'll I I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I)!III,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ l hl. ~~~~j till 11~~~~~~~~~~~~~II Il~I/ Ii~~~~~~~~~~N 174 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. again, and then in the same manner go the honor of the inestimrcbl improveto the eating-room. The tables that are ments which have been made, althouglh used here are very narrow, to prevent he was accused of occasional practices any intercourse. In about half an hour of unnecessary severity, in the punishthey are ordered, by the ringing of the ment of offenders or suspected persons bell, to return to the workshops, and among the prisoners under his charge. here work until twelve o'clock, when Not a word is allowed to be spoken again they go and take their dinner in bythe convicts while at work; and each the same way. As evening comes on, small party of laborers is attended by a the prisoners go to the place where they sentinel, at whatever employment, and left their tubs in the morning; and when every infringement of the rule of strict the word of command is given, each silence which he can observe is in3tanttakes his own up and'proceeds to the ly reported and punished. Their cells mess or dining-room, where each one are solitary, although arranged side by takes his can of water and his pan of side in long rows, and separated only by food, and then all walk in the same single walls; and sentinels are so posted, close step to their cells. As they enter, at night, that no communication can be they pull the door to after them, and carried on between any of the prisoners. are then locked in by the turnkey, who In the largest prisons, where ra thousand has two keys entirely different from any or more persons are confined, a dead others in the prison. The prisoners are silence reigns from the hour of retiredivided into companies; and each com- ment till that of breakfast. A few men pany occupies a separate gallery. The are sufficient to guard a;great number, turnkeys go around through the differ- thus isolated in mind, and yet made to ent galleries in stocking-feet, to see if move and act in compact bodies. A the convicts are in bed. plot is impossible: one man can not The stateprison at Auburn is impor- even form an acquaintance with anothtant in an historical point of view, be- er. Whenever they move, they are recause it is that in which a new system quired to march at a regular step, in of prison-discipline was commenced, single file, and close together; a difficult which has since been extensively adopt- march, which requires strict attention. ed in the la(rge stateprisons of this coun- They often receive their food on r'etry, and, with various modifications, in turning from work, without stopping; France and elsewhere. It was invented for being marched through the kitchen, and first practised by Mr. Lynds, after- each takes his can from a table, and carward superintendent of the Sing-Sing ries it to his cell. prison. The grand object of it is to Religious services are often held in prevent all conversation and interchange chapels connected with the prisons, and of thoughts between the convicts. In chaplains usually find many of the conall prisons previously in use, where con- victs accessible to their private instrucsiderable numbers of persons were con- tions. Each cell has a Bible, and sabI fined, unless for offences of peculiar bath-schools are often kept by benevokinds, or under oppressive systems of lent people of the neighborhood. In government, numbers of prisoners were, some cases, also, as in New York city, from time immemorial, placed in com- societies provide temporary lodgings mon halls, often in a very crowded man- and work for discharged convicts, and ner; and not only immoral conversation, otherwise interest themselves in their but the basest crimes, might be indulged welfare. in. So great were the evils of that sys- The Prison-Discipline Society, which tem, that many innocent persons have was formed in Boston about twenty-five been ruined by their contact with felons years ago, early recommended the prinof the worst character, while awaiting ciples on which the Auburn prison was trial. The expense of keeping and conducted, and greatly contributed to guarding men in such circumstances was their general adoption in the United very great; and to Mr. Lynds belongs States and foreign countries. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEWV YORK. 175 Il ~-_.._..... __ ~-~~~~~~~~~~~~ —Geneva Medical College. GENEVA.-This place is conspicuous The Geneva College was one of the among the lake villages fur the beauty earliest institutions which adopted a of its appearance fiom the water. It plan of studies adapted to young men stands at the outlet of the lake of the preparing for other professions than same name, upon the western bank; those usually termed "learned;" and, and the houses of some of the more like several others since established in wealthy inhabitants occupy the summit different places, affords instruction in of the higher ground, which rises one practical branches to such students as hundred and twenty feet, just behind the prefer to pursue them. The buildings busiest streets, and descends with ahasty occupy a remarkably fine, agreeable, but graceful slope to the water, adorned and commanding situation, on the ele by the gardens, green with useful plants, vated shore of the lake, near the southand gay with blooming flowers. The erm extremity of Main street. surrounding country presents that gen- This college, incorporated in 1825, tly-varied surface peculiar to this part has professors of mathematics, natural of New York, where, for many miles, philosophy, Latin and Greek, statistics the ground has the appearance of hav- and civilengineering, mod en languages, ing been channelled from north to south. history and belles-lettres, chymistry and The lowest depressions are cccupied by mineralogy. There is also a medical several of the small lakes, while the department, commonly calledheights of the intermediate ridges corm- Te MIedical College of Geneva.-The mand exte:sive and pleasing views over building belongs to the medical departthe gently-undulated country between. ment of the college, which is under the The settlement of Geneva was begun direction of four professors. The inin the year 1794, by Mr. Austin and Mr. habitants of this beautiful town have Barton; and the act of incorporation distinguished themselves by their liberwas passed in 1812. The number of ality in providing and supporting instidwellings is about five hundred; and tutions of the most valuable character; there are nine churches, a bank, &c. and few places of equal size can be found 176 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. in the country better provided. This ticulars relating to Rochester, may le building, with the others connected with Ifound in the history of the town, publthe college, is an ornament to the town, lished in 1835. while it makes a conspicuous appear- The falls of the Genesee at this place ance from a distance. are one of the most remarkable of the ROCHESTER.-This flourishing and cataracts in New York, and rendered by important city in this part of the state, art the most useful. The upper one is is of such recent growth, that, until the small,'making an inconsiderable descent year 1810, there was not even a single over a rocky bed of only a moderate andwelling on its site. the whole tract gle of descent; but, as the grand aquewas once a mill-lot, and was purchased, duct is built over it, the effect of the in 1802, by Nathaniel Rochester and flowing water is increased by the obtwo associates, at$15.50an acre —$1,750 struction of the channel by the masses in all. Some of the land on the eastern of stonework, and the contraction thus bank of the Genesee was sold at eigh- formed of the passage. The middle fall teen ptence an acre in 1790, by the great is the principal one; and that is perspeculators of the day-Phelps and GCor- pendicular, over a rocky precipice, which ham. In 1816, the population was only rises like a wall from the lower to the three hundred and thirty-one. upper level of the river. In pouring The flour business is extensively car- over this, the water plunges ninety-six ried on at Rochester. There is a large feet, sometimes in a few small streams, number of gristmills, with runs,f stories but, in floods, in a general sheet. It sufficient to grind several thousand bar- was here that the celebrated Sam Patch, rels of flour daily. The amount made afterperforming many astonishing leaps, annually amounts to near a million of unharmed, fiom fearful heights, lost his barrels. There are also several woollen life, in the year 1829, by jumping from and cotton mills, with many saw and the rocks into the basin. other water mills of different kinds in Below this spot, the river flows a mile I this busy town. and a half, through a wide and deep Few towns in the Union present such channel, passing several rapids, when it evidences of a great and lucrative busi- reaches the two lower falls. I]ere the I ne:;s, on so small a space of ground, as surrounding scenery is rough and wild; Rochester, in the immediate vicinity of and the river first pours over a precipice the river, at and below the aqueduct. twenty-five feet high, and immediately The mills above referred to, form a afterward over another of eighty-four double line of large, massive, stone feet. The banks below are high, rocky, buildings; and the greatest activity pre- and perpendicular, for a considerable vails in and around them, where crowds distance, showing numerous stratificaof men are constantly employed in the tions, which have been cut through by various kinds of business which are car- the current. Across the awful chasm a ried on in them, and in the various other wooden bridge was erected, in 1819, of mills and manufactories adjacent, as one noble arch, whose chord was three well as at the depits of the canal and hundred and fifty-two feet, and the versed the railroad. Above twenty churches, sine fifty-four feet. The entire length several of them remarkably handsome, of the bridge was seven hundred and as well as capacious edifices, are among eighteen feet, and the width thirty feet. the public buildings, although the first The top of the arch was not less than presbyterian church, which is the oldest, one hundred and ninety-six feet above was erected in 1815; and so late as in the river. It contained seventy thouJanuary, 1813, at the celebration of the sand feet of timber, and sixty-four thouIndian new-year, the Senecas performed sand, six hundred and twenty feet, board their last heathen ceremonies on the measure. Just one year and a day after ground, near the site of the present its completion, it fell in ruins by its own Bethel dhurch. An interesting account weight, the sides of the arch pressing of these, as well as of many other par- up the top. E N,'/ itI// / i"iI h x i-": sl.4, i" 7-' /:-7r','~',i~i!,~,"'~:<::::~:::~:,I I I I Falls of Niacnra, viewed f om Table Rock. 12 178 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. CARTHIAGE, a small tnwn on the eastern line; but between Goat island and thee bank,. is a place of consierabie business, Canada side, it is curved inward, formas a communication between Rochester ing the Horseshoe. Thousands of trav — and Lake Ont zrio was established some ellers annually visit the spot, to admire, years since, by an inclined plane fiom this great natural curiosity; and fine the high bank to the river, where boats hotels, on both sides of the river, afford received and discharged cargoes, The them ample accommodations. Stairbusiness has greatly increased; and there cases have been excavated at different are now three railroads from Rochester places, by which visiters can get safely to the navigable part of the river, six down to the best points of view. A miles from the lake-shore. walk under the cliff is very interesting; BUFFALO.-This city, before referred but to pursue the slippery and dangerto, as one of the principal inland towns ous path under the sheet of water, beof the state, and the centre of the lake neath the falling torrent and the mighty and canal navigation and railroad com- rock over which it falls, requires both munication, is pleasantly situated on the courage and caution. Parties, however, summit, declivity, and base, of the table- often incur the hazard, and submit to land which borders the end of Lake the inconvenience caused by the extreme Erie and the head of Niagara river. dampness of the atmosphere, which is The streets are broad, clean, and well constantly surcharged with spray, and, built, and numerous blocks of stone- being agitated by conflicting currents houses border the stream which here of wind, soon wets one to the skin. pours into the lake. A lighthouse, a pier, Every change of season, weather, and and an improved harbor, all subserve light, imparts some peculiar aspect to the extensive commerce of the place. this extraordinary scene. The rising Niagara Falls, celebrated throughout sun gilds the edges of the cataract, and the world as the most stupendous of cat- illuminates the upper banks, with their aracts, lies partly in the state of New wild crests of overhanging trees, while York aIld partly in Canada. A more the darkness of the awful gulf below is sublime spectacle can not easily be con- enhanced by the unintermitted roaring ceived, and none can anywhere be found and concussions of the tremendous masson earth to compare with it. The river es of water dashed together. The lofty Niagara, a broad, deep, and rapid stream, column of mist, which for ever stands, the outlet of Lake Erie, the deepest of like a cloud, over this scene of noise the American inland seas, also discharges and fury, is sometimes dark as a thunthe waters flowing toward the ocean der-storm, but more firequently of a from the whole chain of lakes above. snowy whiteness, and illuminated and Passing, with a hasty but unbroken cur- painted by rainbows, whose arches vary rent, by Grand island, it soon approach- in their position and direction with the es the verge of the mountain ridge; and, course of the sun. Night casts a tone after rushing for about half a mile down of majesty over the scene, as difficult to a declining, rocky bed, forming the rap- ibe duly described as to be witnessed ids, it is precipitated over a precipice without emotion, especially when the one hundred and sixty feet high, into a moon silvers the rocks, the water, and gulf of unknown depth below, with a the spray, or when, in winter, it falls roar which is sometimes audible at the upon the forest-trees, glazed with the distance of twenty miles. frozen spray, and upon the immense It is remarkable that the sheets of icicles, often more than a hundred feet falling water are entire and unbroken, in length. from top to bottom, in th eir whole extent, It is almost impossible for any living without any interruption worthy of being thing to survive the descent of this awmentioned. Goat island, near the mid- ful cataract. Deer and other animals dle, divides the river for some distance have sometimes been carried down, above and at the fall. On the New York while attempting to swim across the side, the cataract presents a straight river above; and, in several instances, i.'-;=-5_===1--=_7_=_=_ -== —-= —---= —=;; —------------- ---- --— r_. =.-_-_-_:':__,:;==-;--_';c= —— ==--===; —=- -= —;I--=l_=-.. =z_r__-_ —- _-T-=-_1-===-IT=_;T-=_:_- -— —-------— L=-===i==ill=-. —— =~S — LII-f--;T--L;;:r_7 ---- ---- ~ -: ---- -- _._ —----------— ~ —--—,,..~ —— ~= —-— =;= —-L-J —-=-=L —C __ ___=1;_.;_==i-=_Z:=_:-= —-==1. _=;_::I;_. -== —-;== —=-=L —-== —— -L —7= —SI _-I —_':=-~=== —-=-. — r=--_==-.__________i —_ —-- I- _-;_==-_-,, —=_~_=_ —---— = -L —— 1~ —-— ~-; —- c-------_;_ _-_-_L —L=_3.1 — = —=== —_;-21=_-_=3_li__ __?-___1-_-1---=-_:=-== —,,=-= —---— ==-== — _-=;;r=:-c-l=__ -------------— = —-~-_-_ -_.~=-_' —- — =-;-=;= —— —- —-. —-L-. —-..-:' —= —-; — -- ------- —= —=:-=; —-— C= —-----— LI__II —-----—; —===-=;-==-== —- _ —= —- —= — —==L= —-====-=__= —==L=-.__;__ TT- II__; -._=7-,,;1=_,--'_;; —---i —=-:=L-: t —-- —-- -=---;,=,:;=T=' =-' —=-=-`--'-; -=-- —: —-— I--1 c-;=;- —=--=- —---=---= -===- —==L_-:L —-T.- — - —-=_: —-I -- —:jt-~-~!.:L —-; —---— _ —------— _=_-_=; —--— t-= E-= —— Bag:ilYi:rkOlF'jjf~&^2 i \ is.,,,i ii'' Z1 I!YI\ ij iiij,!iI i\ii i\i I r""3i.!II( I "'i :I I i ii ni a =-5 i- —--- -— E fi --—' =;-====-~. —-~== —l;r;L —..~t= = — —; —= —-— - — __;53=I==;1.:- = —; s- —-L-: ====== - —9i;=_L~-C_-J -=_L-i i —-=__ _;: - ~;_C —Z —_____L-1I-_-;__;-j — 3 —._-.-L~ =_i —=-=-,= —;--=;`~ —~ —-—;5 —E —-~~=; —;=-= ;;~ —; —"-=; —- —~-= —— =-- -'- — —-; —= —rr-; —-rr;r —;_-r —— = — -----— - —- 3 cP;;XkelL;;aaJ ~-- —: -~-~ —--- -- - — —--— = —---— — View of Niagara Falls from te Clifton House. )i ii -- LI-I — -I- -- -- 180 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. The Van Kleeck House. men have been borne down to the awful! spectator views its waves with awe and verge, and plunged to unknown depths fear, as they glide beneath his feet, and in the black gulf beneath. intimate the sudden and fatal conseThe vicinity of Niagara has been sig- quences of a single misstep. nalized by several important military The Welland canal, oil the Canada events. The French fortress of Fron- side, gives a passage to lake-vessels firom tenac, at the mouth of the river, was Erie to Ontario. captured by the British, after a siege; A wire-bridge across Niagara river, Fort Erie, at the head of' the stream, below the falls, has been built, and is was taken by the Americans, in the war of sufficient strength to allow the passage of 1812; Buffalo was burnt by the ene- of great weights. my; ILewistown was taken, by an Amer- Without naming numerous other plaican force, by a bold coup-de-main, after ces and objects of great interest, we recrossing in boats, and scaling an almost turn to the Hudson river. inaccessible height on the shore. The POUGHKEEPSIE. —This is one of the battle of Lundy's Lane and Bridgewa- pleasantest villages in the valley of the. ter was fought within a short distance Hudson, but is so situated, at the dis-\ of the cataract, and gave the Americans tance of a mile fiom its eastern shore, some of their greatest advantages in that as to be quite out of sight to travellers unhappy contest. passing in steamboats. It is one of the Grand island, a little above the cata- most flourishing villages in this part of ra.ct, is a good agricultural region, and the state; and its settlement dates back is remarkable as the site of the proposed to about the year 1]700, when it was first city of "Ararat," offered as a gather- inhabited by a few Dutch families. The ing-place of the Jews, and as a camp soil is favorable to cultivation, while the occupied by the invaders of Canada, in stream which flows through the town the late attempt at revolution. makes a succession of falls, amounting, The passage to the islands, over the in all, to a descent of about a hundred bridge, affords the visiter a gratifying and sixty feet, and affords water-power i though an agitating view of the rushing to various mills and manufactories. The a stream, just as it pours furiously by to place contains three printing-offices, two its stupendous leap down the awful banks, and eleven churches, with twelve precipice. With astonishing skill and schools. Population, 1850, 11,080. boldness, the slight fabric has been con- The Van K/ce,:k House.-This was the structed, from rock to rock, across the first house ever erected in Poughkeep- I wild and dangerous channel; and the sie. It was the residence of Myndert i _L..~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Collegiate School. Poughkeepsie. ____ ____ || 182 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. Chlurch of Our Lady at Cold-Spring. Van Kleeck, one of the first settlers in manufactories of locomotives in the the county; and the remarkable build- United States. The surprising success ing, with the surrounding grounds, was of Americans, in the improvement and in possession of his descendants in the construction of the most complex and year 1835, when it was taken down. It powerful steam machines, and especialwas built in 1702. It was for many ly of this class, has excited admiration years a public-house; and, in 1787, was abroad, as well as at home; and multioccupied by the legislature as a state- tudes of our locomotives are now perhouse. The session held there was the forming, the labors of some of the prineleventh, and the governor of the state eipal railroads of Europe, while our was then George Clinton. furnaces and workshops are resounding The Collegiate School is an institution with the preparations for many more. for education, in a large building one Roman Catholic CAhurch at Coldhundred and fifteen feet by thirty-five, Spring. —A few miles below Poughwell proportioned, with a fine colonnade, keepsie, and opposite West Point, on and surrounded by spacious grounds, an elevation commanding a view of thb tastefully adorned. The building cost river, is this neat little edifice, just abo,, forty thousand dollars; and it commands the landing. It is of plain, Grec'ian a fine view of forty or fifty miles upon style, with four Doric columns. The the surrounding country, with the ridge material is brick, but the whole is coyof the Catskill mountains, twenty miles -ered with stucco, which gives it the apdistant toward the south. Poughkeepsie pearance of white stone. lies below, about a mile in front; and Tlhe Stone-Church at Dover.-About the elevation occupied by the edifice twenty-four miles east from Poughkeepc minands a charming viewof the Hud- sie, near the village of Dover, is a reson, enlivened by numerous steamboats markable cavern, which, from the pecuand other vessels engaged in its varied liar, angular form of its roof, has re- and active commerce. ceived the namne of the "stone-church." Poughkeepsie is one of the largest This natural cavity appears to have been!{ Dover S e Curch 184 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. slowly formed by the flowing of a s ream, 1 which, coming down the mountain in which the cavern is found, enters at a narrow fissure ih the roof, and, descendinn firom crag to crag, presents a beaeutiful succession of cascades, till it reaches the lev(ld of the floor, where it spreads out in a quiet little pond. The whole cavern is large, bein( divided into tw(o compartments by an immense rock which has fallen from above. The inner chamber is about seventy feet in length,l while the Gothic arch above is twenty feet in width, and the top about two hundred feet high. "The scene," remarks a visiter, " is well fitted to inspire devotional feelings: the heart acknowledges the power of the Creator, and rises in admiration of his works." TROY is one of the numerous towns in this state which display striking evi- St.Paul'sChurch, Troy. dence of rapid, substantial, and permaneut improvement, which has been so small but constant streams flowing doiwn-i extensively occasioned by the enlight- the eminence on which the spectator is ened internal policy of the government, supposed to stand; and such is the vaand accomplishedby the intelligence and riety found among the factories, mills, industry of the people. A view from &c., in this immediate vicinity, that we Mount Ida, an eminence rising abruptly can not pretend to give a full account from its eastern border, embraces a of them. Population, 1850, 29,000. scene of life and activity seldom sur- PLATTSBURGHI.-This town, the capipassed. A young and flourishing city tal of Clinton county, one hundred and below, with streets crowded with busy twelve miles north of Whitehall, and people, the noble Hudson sweeping ma- one hundred and sixty-four miles from jestically by, crossed by a fine pier, Albany, enjoys an advantageous and which serves the double purpose of a pleasant situation, on ihe western side bridge and a viaduct to the railroad- of Lake Champlain. The township is the combined trunk of the Champlain supplied with many fine mill-seats, by and Erie canal, floatingr the crowded the Saranac and Salmon rivers, and sevboats from the north and the west-sev.. eral other small streams; and the easteral of the splendid New York steam- ern part of it is generally level, although boats, which penetrate to this highest the western is hilly. The village stands accessible point: all these are embraced on the lake-shore, at the mouth of the within the immediate range of the eye, Saranac. In speaking of Lake Chamwith the various signs of bustle to which plain, on a preceding page, we alluded they give rise. The United States ar- to the impoltant naval victory achieved senal, at Watervliet, stands opposite; on the Cumberland bay, opposite this while nearer by, the environs of Troy place, in the last war with Great Britare beautified by the mansions and gar- ain, in 1814.,dens of some of the wealthy citizens, Plattsburgh was twice taken by their and the rumbling of machinery, and the troops, but the country below was finalsmoking of chimneys, betray the vicini- ly delivered from danger by the event ty of some of the largest and best manu- just mentioned. The victorious Ameri-, factories inthe country. Some of these can squadron, under Commodore Mcare supplied with moving-power by'the Donough, had 820 men, and 86 guns, DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 185 " nd the British 1,050 men, and 96 guns. bouts and twenty minutes; and we the following recollections of the battle knew the work of death was going on ~are fiom the pen of a fiiend:- at every new report. Such a sabbath, "The Battle qf Plattsburgh.-It was may this land never see again! It was a bright sabbath in September, one of nct a'day of rest,' or of worship, but those rich, soft, and mellow days that one to be remembered with feelings of begin to wear the sober tints of autumn, horror and dread. A few gathered in that my childish heart was made sad by the morning, aged men, women, and the scenes and the sounds of war. Our children, in a lonely group, for worship; home was on the eastern l border of the lbut, as the excitement increased, every lake, just across from Plattsburgh; and, man fled firom the village, and, in short, for many long months, the event of bat- almost every one had climbed to some tie had been the theme of conversation height on the hills, or in the steeple of by the fireside, amongr men as they met the church, to read, in the progress of in their daily haunts, and friends by events, our consequent destiny. When the wayside. Preparations were going the British ships struck their colors, and forward for defence; and among men ictory was the cry, there was great rethere was enlisting. draughtin,, &c., and joicinf, in the sure and delighltful feelall things wore the aspect of some im- ing of safety, far more than in that of pending evil, which threw a kind of success. gloom over the feeling(s, in which all " Men and boys had nearly all crossed sympathized. WVe lived within less than over the lake to witness the scene, from a day's march of the enemy's ground, the hills about the village, and were and consequently were often alarmed spectators of the bloody affrlay. One of with conjectures and painful suspense, my brothers went aboard one of the in reogard to their mo(,vements. Often vanquishled ships, soon after the action lwere we surprised with rumors of the ceased. The deck was strewed with near approach of the British-that they the dead and dying, weltering in gore. had crossed the lines-were marching Tle gallant Downie, who had commanddown upon us, &c., which kept the in- ed the British forces, lay on a large iron habitants in a very uneasy and unsettled chest, just as he was slain. Victory was condition. But so many false alarms the theme arind the cry of the conquerhad a tendency, at length, to lull them ors; but grief and dismay were the feelinto a state of indifference, or to allay ings of the vanquished. their apprehensions so much, that peo- "The officers who fell in these enple had resumed their avocations in counters, both by land and water, were comparative quiet. buried side by side in the graveyard at "But at last the event burst upon us, Plattsburgh. Monuments have been with all the dreaded realities of blood- erected to all. Friends and fo)es sleep shed and war! The scene was suffi- as quietly as if they had never had colciently distant to prevent immediate lision here on earth. Commodore Dowdanger, yet all knew that their future nie, though slain in the invasion of our security hung on the result, and every country, as the officer of the highest eye was strained, and every heart beat rank, is placed in the centre; and a tabwith deep anxiety, for the sequel. let, erected to his memory, bears the "It was a peaceful sabbath morning; following inscription: the sun had risen with its accustomed "'Sacred to the memory of George splendor, and nature wore the stillness Downie, Esq., a post-captain in the Britpeculiar to the sacred day. But alas! ish navy, who gloriously fell on board it was a strange sabbath with man. The his B. M. ship Confiance, while leading booming sounds of guns came across the the vessels under his command to the water, in such quick and raped succes- attack of the American flotilla, at anchor sion, that they shock the earth, an l in Cumberland l,ay, off Plattsburgh, on sounded like heavy and deep-toned the 11th of September, 1814. —To nmark thunder. The engagement lasted two the spot where the remains of a gallant __:1~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 186 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. officer and sincere friend were honora- southern extremity, is now the mos't bly interred, this stone has been erected populous, as well as the most important, by his affectionate sister-in-law, Mary on the western continent, and vies, in Downie.' commercial rank, with many of the prin" The family of Dr. Davidson were cipal ones of the old world. It now ocresidents of'lattsburgh at this time; cupies the whole of Manhattan island, and Mrs. Davidson, in a work of hers being conterminous with the county of called' Selections,' has given an inter- New York. Its limits, therefore, extend esting sketch of events that occurred in to the narrow channel between the Hudher own family during the scene of son and East rivers, called Harlem river; those eventful days. a distance of 14~ miles, with a breadth "After some months, the vessels were 1 varying up to two miles, and an area of taken to the head of the lake, at White- 21.i square miles. The southern perhall. Circumstances of travelling just tion, forming about one sixth of the at that time gave me an opportunity, in whole, is occapied by the main body of the impressible season of childhood, to the populatioi., amounting, in 1840, to see friom the tall masts the British and 312,710, and in 1850 to 515,547. The American flags floating lazily in the number of buildings, in 1850, in the cornbreeze, the conquered'lion' looking pact part of the city, was 37,730; the just as fierce and terrible as if he had valuation of real estate, $227,000,000, not been'a captive among Americans. and of personal estate, $93,000,000. We were invited on board, and saw the The harbor is very capacious, with mutilated ships of war. They were good anchorage for the largest ships, making preparations to sink them in almost whollyfree from shoals, and with the lake, which was afterward done, for currents strong enough to keep it usupreservation, and the soldiers were ally free from ice in the winter, even rolling cannon-balls into their holds, as | when more southern ports are obstructweights. ed Governor's and Bedlow's islands "Commodore M'Donough was pres- are strongly fortified; and the entrance ent-a man of middle stature; but there to the lower bay is defended by Fort was nothing in his looks or manner which Hamilton, on Longr island, Fort Lafayindicated aught of the exciting scenes ette, on a rock in the water, and battethrough which he had passed. It is said ries on Staten island, opposite. The of him that, after the enemy's fleet hove Hudson river opens a natural navigable in sight, the men of his ship were as- channel of 150 miles to Albany, and sembled on the quarter-deck, when he with the various canals and railroads kneeled down, and, in humble and fer- heretofore mentioned; while the East vent prayer, commenlded himself, his river comnllnicates with Long Island men, and the cause in which they were sound, which pours much trade into this engaged, to the'God of battles,' and city. Lines of the most capacious and arose from that posture with a calmness splendid steamboats lead daily, and aland serenity on his brow which showed most hourly, in all directions; and new that he had received comfort and assu- channels of communication are now in rance from above. preparation, which swill still further fa"The dead of both armies were taken cilitate and extend the great commerto the small islands near the scene of cial relations of New York. action, and there buried. Those waters The streets in the lower and oldest now look as blue and as beautiful as if part of the city are generally narrow and never disturbed with war; and those crooked; but in the upper portion, to islands are as green and verdant as if which many of the inhabitants have never broken with new-made graves." changed their residences within a few I NEW YORK CITY.-The site'of this years, they are straight, broad, well city, which was first occupied by Euro- built, and more agreeable. peans in 1614, or 1615, and then only The number of churches is 245. Of I by the erection of a blockhouse near its these there are-baptist, 31; congrega- i _ -- - -= - -___5__. _= I - - - - - _ _ -- _ =View of New Yo-k City \ \n- n - -- n View of Newo Yolrk City t~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- - rS 188 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. tional, 9; Dutch reformed, 17; fiiends, and dining-rooms, with apartments for 4; Jewish, 11; Lutheran, 5; methodist recitation, the family of the superintendepiscopal, 31; methodist protestant, 2; ent, and the eight instructors, the kitchpresbyterian, 35; associate presbyterian, en, &c. The system of instruction re4; associate reformed presbyterian, 2; sembles that practised in the other deaf reformed presbyterian, 4; protestant and dumb asylums in the United States, episcopal, 47; Roman catholic, 21; uni- being founded onl the principles of the tarian, 2; universalist, 4; Welsh, 3; Abb6 De l'Ep~e and the Abb6 Sicard, miscellaneous, 16. introduced into this country by Mr. GalThere are about forty banks, exclu- laudet, at the expense of the American sive of eleven for savings. There are asylum at Hartford, about the year 1815. asylums for lunatics, at Bloomingdale; The Institution for the Education of colored, indigent, and aged, at 42d street; the Blind, is erected on land presented deaf and dumb, 50th street; blind, 9th by James Boorman, Esq., at the expense avenue; orphans, 117th street, and 71st of the state, aided by a gift of fifteen street, 6th avenue, Prince street, 11th thousand dollars from Mr. Burke, and street, and colored orphans, 12th street; other donations. The building faces the lying-in women, Marion street; old la- Hudson river, at a short distance from dies, 20th street. the bank, and contains lodgings for a Schools.-Ward schools, 19; primary, large number of pupils, most of whom 3; schools of the Public School Society, are supported by the state. They are 18, and primary, 59. Both the ward taught the common branches of learnand the public schools are free to chil- ing, with vocal and instrumental music, dren of all classes, and wholly gratui- and several useful handicrafts best adapttous, even to the books used by the chil- ed to their abilities, chiefly the manudren. The latter were commenced about facture of baskets, rugs, bandboxes, and thirty years ago, through the exertions carpets. of a few benevolent individuals, at a The Croton Aqueduct.-The city of time when public education was neg- New York is abundantly supplied with lected; and, under the charge of a very pure and wholesome water, by a work faithful and intelligent board of trustees, of greater length than any other in the and superintended by Mr. Seton, a de- country, and at a greater expense. The voted friend of the poor and ignorant, supply is derived from the Croton river, they rose to a high eminence, under the in Westchester county, at a point about liberal patronage of the state. forty miles from the city. That stream - The eighteen schoolhouses of this so- is dammed, and is capable of affording ciety, above-mentioned, are fine brick a much greater quantity than can be buildings, usually about eighty by forty needed in a long course of years. The feet, and two or three stories high, able aqueduct passes most of the way under to contain from five to twelve hundred ground, through a pipe of masonwork, children each. The monitorial system constructed in the most skilful manner, is practised. but crosses several streams, the broadThe ward schools have since been est of which is Harlem river. The established, in which that system is not bridge thrown across is one of the most used. The trustees and other officers important constructions on the line. It are chosen annually by the people, and is 1,450 feet long, with fifteen archestheir schools are multiplying. eight of them eighty feet span, and sevTle Institution for the Education of en of fifty feet span, 114 feet above tidethe Deaf and Dumb.-This institution is water at the top. situated near 33d street and 4th avenue. The receiving reservoir is at 86th The building is 110 by 60 feet, and con- street, about five and a half miles from tains about two hundred pupils, from all the city-hall. It covers thirty-five acres, parts of the state, many of whom are and contains one hundred and fifty millsupported and instructed at the public ions of gallons. Theie the water is reexpense. The building affords sleeping ceived, and all( wed to stand long enough (I..I 111111 _9_______ Merchants' Exchange, Wall Street, New York. i 190 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. to dep,ite the particles of sand and close of the war, was occupied by Gen,clay it has brought down, and then it is eral Washington. The Atlantic, and, drawr off into the second or distributing several other hotels, stand opposite or reservoir. near this favorite square. This reservoir is situated at 42d street, T/he Park.-This is the most central on the height of ground about three and important of the public squares, at miles from the city-hall. It is an im- the junction of two grand avenues of mense structure of hewn stone, resem- the city, Broadway and Chatham street, bling a modern fortress of the first class, containing the city-hall, the new citycovering fiour acres, and capable of hall, and the hall of records, and is containing twenty millions of gallons. surrounded by many other important From this iron pipes lead off, gradually edifices, such as the Astor house, Tambranching in different directions, with many hall, Stewart's store, museum, &c. stops, hydrants, &c. It contains, also, a public fountain, withMany houses are now supplied with in a basin about one hundred feet in this excellent water, not merely for cu- diameter, which has a variety of jets, linary purposes and drinking, but also that are occasionally changed. When for rbathing, &c. There is also reserved the water is thrown in a single stream, a supply for the extinguishment of fires, it ascends to the height of seventy feet, of inestimable value to the city, which presenting a majestic appearance. has heretofore suffered most severely for St. JTohn's Park, in the western part the want of it. of the city, is private, being accessible Several of the public squares are only to the inhabitants of the surroundadorned with beautiful fountains, some ing houses. It is closely planted with of which throw the water nearly a hun- trees, and has St. John's church fronting dred feet perpendicularly, not, as at it on the east. Versailles, after being raised by ma- Washington Square, between 4th and chinery, but by the force of the natural 6th streets, just west of Broadway, lies head. in front of the university, and one of the Public Squares.- TIhe Battery, named reformed Dutch churches. from the use made of it in early times, Union Place, at the northern termiis a. fine public walk on the southern! nation of Broadway, is in an elliptical extremity of the island, shaded with I form, enclosed with a fine iron fence, trees, and commanding a delightful viewe having a public fountain in the centre, upon the bay. Being exposed to the with ornamental jets, and is a delightful sea-breezes, and in full view of the nu- place of resort to. the inhabitants. merons boats and vessels of all descrip- Further up the city are other public | tions, continually passing, the Battery is squares, as Madison square, Hamilton a favorite resort in warm weather. square, and others, not yet regulated. Castle-Garden is a place of amusement, On the east are Tompkins square and formed in an old fort, connected with Bellevue, the latter the seat of the almsthe Battery by a short bridge, near which house. floating-baths are moored in the bathing |Wall Street, the central point of the season. banks, insurance offices, &c., contains TiLe Bowling-Green, just north of the the exchange and the customhouse. The Battery, is a small circular green, sur- exchange is of Quincy granite, three storounded with an iron railing, shaded ries high, and a basement, covering a with lofty trees, and ornamented with a block between four streets, and is ]97 beautiful fountain, where a stream of feet 7 inches on Wall street, 144 on one Croton water is thrown about ninety side, and 170 on the other, with a large feet into the air, and falls upon a beau- dome above, 100 feet high. tiful structure of marble, and thence The customhouse, at the corner of into a basin. The Washington, 1 Broad- Nassau street, is of white marble from way, was the headquarters of Lord Sing-Sing, and in the form of a Grecian Howe, in the Revolution, and, after the temple, with a colonnade at each end, -------- -—..I LU ____,;, -------- L Fz —— —— ci LC_ r'-1-= —— =I —=1- —-c-=_=~ CT:I'.jScj -. -r 3easi II' (II ~- " C I L — 3c-_.Jmmnl _,- __ ^-",_J -c; Z~;yf ~-, —-'i —— r- — tJ;~ "~iii;g"""fi- =-,*; i —-aklfb~i s Crce r =e-IC/R bLh;Sli -cjF~ ccd -r?;1The Old Billop House, at Bentley, west end of Btaten Island. ___ __ I; || 192 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEWV YORK. and pilasters on thesiles. The interior tion and moral improvement of tho:se is almost wholly of hewn stone. The confined. principal hall is in the centre; and all Th/e Penitentiary, on Blackwell's the departments are well arranged, with island, in the East river, is an immense ample accommodations for the numerous stone structure, on the Auburn plan, offices and clerks. with a chapel, keepers' rooms, &c., in TILe City-tall.a-This fine and spa- the centre, the cells for females in the cious edifice occupies the centre of the south wing, and for men in the north. park, facing the south, and presents a Each wing is more than 200 feet long. beautiful Grecian front, of 216 feet in BROOKL-N.- This city is on Long length, rising fiom a broad terrace. A Island, opposite New York city, with flight of wide stepq leads up to arched which it is connected by ferries, upon entrances, above which is a balcony on which steamboats ply, every few minutes, the second story. The two wings have day and night. Its beautiful and elevated Ihalls in front, devoted to the common situation has made it a favorite residence council, the superior court, &c., while of many persons doing business in Nesw other courts and offices are accommoda- York. It contains a city-hall, thirty ted in other parts of the building. On churches, several banks and insurance the top is the great fire-bell, which in- companies, and over seventy thousand indicates, by the number of strokes, the habitants. The Lyceum is a fine building districts of the city in which fires are of granite, with a spacious lecture-room. burning, for the direction of the gie- The City Library of 3,000 volumes,has i companies. A view from the cupcla a fine building andl reading-room. affirds one of the finest prospects of the Thie Navy- Yard has extensive grounds city. enclosed, with an arsenal, stores, shipTrinity Church, on Broadway, oppo- houses, docks, the naval lyceum, &c. site the head of Wall street, occupies The naval hospital at a little distance, the site of the first episcopal church is a fine, large building. erected in the city, in 1696, except the Greenwood Cemetery is an extensive chapel in the front. It is of sandstone, tract of ground, about three miles below in the Gothic style, 137 feet loing, 36 Brooklyn, and situated on the bay. It I feet wide, and 67 feet high, with a tower has an undulated surface, and is laid out 30 feet square, and a steeple whose top in lots, the access to which is by pleasis 283 feet friom the ground. In the ant, winding carriagce-roads. The folrrear is a vestry, 72 feet long. The est-trees are left standing in many places, church contains an organ, which cost shading the little lakes, or covering the $10,000. In theburial-ground surround- hills, and, in others, those of various fl;ing the church, lie interred many distin- liage are intermingled by art; x while guished persons, particularly Alexander tombs and monu!liltq, usually planned Hamilton and Captain James Lawrence. and executed with taste, are already Prisons.-The Halls of Justice is the scattered in all parts. city prison popularly known as the Staten Island, with an elevated andi i " onbs," and is situated a little north varied surface, offers many fine sites li;r of the park. It was built, about ten villages and country-hlouses, and is tle years ago, to obviate the evils of the resort of many citizens, access being 1' bridewell, which was constructed on the made frequent and convenielt 1v u- iU defective principles of the old system. merous steamboats. The quarantine I The building is 200 by 253 feet, of hospitals are situated on the northleastgranite, in the Egyptian style, and con- ern side; and a little l)elow is the "seatains various court-rooms. The cells are mien's retreat," a noi)le institution, ssupsolitary, to prevent communication be- ported by the "hospital money" paid by tween the prisoners, but provision is sailors; made for ventilation and warming the Hoboken anflt Veelawken, on the H cells, by openings in the wall. Meas- shore of New Jersey, opposite the city. if ares are taken foir the religious instruc- are pleasant retreats. 1..,__ _____ ___________ rltr e a t s DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 193 HISTORY OF THE SONS OF LIBERTY all efforts to enslave them. These bold jiN THE OLDEN TIME. —The American spirits formed the nucleus of the future Revolution, which has produced such armies of the Revolution; and it is to extraordinary results both at home and the moral courage which they displayed, abroad, and which is destined to cause and the indomitable resolution with which still greater changes in the European they braved all danger, that the world world, will elevate the eighteenth cen- is indebted for the illustrious example tury beyond that of any of its predeces- set by the infant colonies to Europe, and sors in the annals of history. The suc- the foundation of a great and glorious cess of the great struggle for liberty, republic. which was by the many supposed hope- The influence of these patriotic men, less, and which present historians deem and the successful issue of the struggle almost miraculous, was brought about begun by their boldness and sustained by the courage and perseverance of a, by their energies, has scattered abroad few indomitable spirits, whom no labor the seeds of freedom, which have borne could weary or danger appal; and it was fruit, in encouraging a spirit of inquiry by their moral courage, perseverance, throughout the civilized world, which and intrepidity, that this great Revolu- has reformed despotic governments, and tion was begun, continued, and ended. regenerated the fairest empires of the Many of those who figured largely in Old World. the history of the times, and some even If the successful issue of the Revoluwho swayed the councils of the nation tion has solved the problem of the posafter the struggle was successfully begun, sible existence of a free yet powerful were content with encouraging the re- government, it is, first, to the devoted volt of others, without committing them- individuals who, despising the dangers selves, and keptwithin the pale of safety and disgraces to which they were exuntil they could embark without fear posed, set at naught the penalties and upon the perilous sea. But there were disqualifications of conspiracy and treaothers who were not only the principal son, and entered into the contest with a agitators, but actors themselves in the full knowledge of all its hazards, and a most daring exploits; and who threw determination to persist to the death to' themselves into the breach in the most effect their emancipation-secondly, to dangerous conjunctures. Had it not those brave men who bore arms in the been for these, who took upon them- subsequent struggle-that the great meed selves the fearful responsibility of di- of applause is due. To all these, howrecting and participating in overt acts ever obscure their names or imperfect of rebellion, the studied arguments of their efforts, the nation at large owes a others who wished to bring on a crisis, deep and lasting debt of gratitude. but blenched from its dangerous concom- The task of perpetuating the fame of itants would have been unavailing. many of the great leaders of the RevoIn the year 1765 ISAAC SEARS, after- lution has fallen into the hands of able ward better known by the name of KING historians, who have well performed SEARS, a man of great personal intre- that duty. To rescue from oblivion and pidity, forward in dangerous enterprises, to do justice to the founders of our liband ready at all times to carry out the erties, whose deeds, active or passive, boldest measures, became the origina- whose personal or moral courage was tor and leader of a patriotic band, who instrumental in producing great and uniassociated themselves together under versal benefits to mankind, is peculiarly I the name of the "SONS OF LIBERTY." the duty of the present age. Now, Their organization soon pervaded every when the present race, who first opened part of the colonies, and was the germ their eyes to an emancipated country, to of the Revolution. By their intrepidity enjoy the blessings purchased by the the spirit of the masses was aroused, blood of their fathers, are fast verging and by their persevering industry and to the grave, it is incumbent on all who zeal the people were excited to oppose have the means of elucidating past trans13 194 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. actions, or the power to do justice to the royal mandates influenced the assembly, actors in the scenes which have preceded and all those who subsisted by the royal them, to lend their efforts before they bounty, there was found a chosen few' are called to their own exit, lest the who remained constant to the last; and. deeds of their ancestors be forgotten. who, when all seemed lost, kept alive It has often been remarked by histo- the spirit of resistance, until from a rians as a duty every true patriot owes feeble and hopeless minority they were to the public and posterity, to bring to enabled to triumph over the power of light whatever can be c llected from the the colonial government and prostrate perishing materials of former days. the royal authority forever. There are ancient manuscripts in every The association of the " Sons of Libpart of our country, which are thrown erty" was organized in 1765, soon after aside as waste-paper in families not the passage of the stamp-act, and exaware of its value. This kind of knowl- tended throughout the colonies, from edge deals much, to be sure, in dry de- Massachusetts to South Carolina. It tail; but facts, upon which historians appears that New York was the central can afterward enlarge and philosophize, post from which communications wiere are what are chiefly important We i despatched to and from the east, and to deem it a matter of such constquence i the south as far as Maryland; which that, if the exertions of individuals be province was the channel of communinot sufficient for the purpose of collect- cation to and from its neighbors of Viring and preserving these materials, pub- ginia and the Carolinas. lic authority should lend its aid to accom- As the postoffices were under the plish this object, which is, in a peculiar control of the government, and the riders degree, of public concern and interest. not at all times reliable, the committee In this way are preserved to posterity of New York (and probably the other the undoubted records of our early his- provinces adopted the same course), tory. upon extraordinary occasions, despatchThe intent of the first association of ed intelligence by special messengers; the " Sons of Liberty" was to put down and if need were, a part of their memthe stamp-act; and when this was effected bers visited in person the neighboring the objects of the society appeared to be associations to insure the perfect organaccomplished. But the acts of parlia- ization of the patriotic league. ment, simultaneous with and subsequent The NewYork association had a corto the repeal, gave to the more sagacious respondent in London, to whom an aca cause for alarm greater than the ob- count was given of their proceedings, noxious bill which had been rescinded. and fiom whom intelligence was from The billeting act, or mutiny bill, by es- time to time transmitted of their protablishing a standing army in the colo- ceedings and the supposed designs of nies at their own charge, was intended the ministry, which in its turn was disto strengthen the arm of the royal au- seminated among the people by the asthority, to overawe the assembly, and to sociation at home. A recordl of the coerce the people to acquiesce in the names of the most active of their leaders impositions of the parliament. would be a desirable document, but as History is full of the resistance to the this would be difficult to be obtained enormous assumptions of the mother- without great labor, and, perhaps, by a country by New England and at the single individual impossible, a list of south; but little is said of the attitude the committees in the different provinces, of New York in that dangerous crisis. so far as they can be ascertained, from And yet in that colony, where the power the remaining papers of the committee of the sovereign was almost omnipo- of New York, might be the means of tent, notwithstanding the exertions of initiating inquiry in other quarters tow the most wealthy inhabitants whose large ard producing the desired result. estates were held by grants from the Those from Maryland will appear crown and whose subservience to the from the following extract from the pro DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 195 ceedings of the "Sons of Liberty," Brush, Cornelius Conklin, and NathanMarch 1, 1766. iel Williams, Huntington, Long Island. "The Sons of Liberty of Baltimore George Townsend, Barack Sneething, county, and Anne Arundel county, met Benjamin Townsend, George Weeks, at the courthouse of the city of Annap- Michael Weeks, and Rowland Chamolis, the first day of March, 1766. bers, Oyster Bay, Long Island. "On motion of a Son of Liberty to The first organization of the Sons of appoint a moderator and secretary, the Liberty was dissolved at the repeal of Rev. Andrew Londrurn was chosen the stamp-act; and while the hope was moderator, and William Paca, secre- strong that similar associations would tary. no longer be necessary, the committee " Joseph Nicholson, of Kent county, received a letter from their faithful corpresented an address fiom that county, respondent in London, of the following signed William Ringgold, William Ste- import:phenson, Thomas Ringgold, jr., Joseph M'Hard, Gideon M'Cauley, Daniel Fox, LONDON, 28th July, 1766. Benjamin Binning, William Bordley, Gentlemen: I flattered myself to have Jarvis James, William Stukely, Joseph heard from you by the last ships, but Nicholson, jr., James Porter, Thomas am informed your society is dissolved, Ringgold, James Anderson, Thomas which I am glad to hear, as the cause Smyth, William Murray, Joseph Nichol- of your complaint is removed. But I son, George Garnet, S. Boardley, jr., think it necessary to assure you that Peroy. Frisby, Henry Vandike, and the continual account we had of the John Bolton." Sons of Liberty, through all North William Paca, Samuel Chase, and America, had its proper weight and efThomas B. Hands, were the Anne fect. Arundel county committee. As our gracious sovereign rules over John Hall, Robert Alexander, Corbin none but free men, and in which he Lee, James Heath, John Moale, and glories, it therefore can not offend him William Lux, were the Baltimore county that his numerous and faithful subcommittee. iects in America claim the appellation Thomas Chase, D. Chamier, Robert of Sons of Liberty. Permit me, thereAdair. Patrick Allison, and W. Smith, fore, to recommend tell or twenty of the were the Baltimore town committee. principal of you, to form yourselves Pennsylvania.-William Bradford and into a club, to meet once a week, under Isaac Howell were the correspondents the name of Liberty Club; and for ever, at Philadelphia. on the 18th of March, or first day of New Jersey. -Daniel Hendrickson, May, give notice to the whole body to minister, Peter Imlay, jr., Jos. Holmes, commemorate your deliverance, spendjr., Peter Covenhoven, jr., and Elisha ing such dayin festivity and joy. I beg Lawrence, Jr., were the committee of pardon for taking the liberty to advise Upper Freehold-Richard Smith, of you; but I am firmly of opinion it will Burlington, and Henry Bickers of New have such effect as you wish. Brunswick. I have the honor to be, gentlemen, Connecticut. -Jo. Burrowes; Jona- your most humble servant, than Sturgis, Fairfield; John Durker, NICHOLAS RAY. Norwich; Hugh Leollie, Windham. New York.-Isaac Sears, John Lamb, P. S.-The commercial acts and free.i William Wiley, Edward Laight, Thos. ports which we lately sent to all the Robinson, Flores Bancker, Chas. Nicoll, colonies I believe will give you pleasJoseph Allicoke, and Gersham Mott. ure. Jeremiah Van Rensselaer, Mynhard To the Sons of Liberty, New York. Roseboom, Robert Henry, and Thomas Young, Albany. To this letter the committee returned John S. Hobart, Gilbert Potter, Thos. the following reply: 196 DDESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OP NEW YORK. NEw YORK, October 10th, 1766. pear on any of the subsequent commit-, SiR: Your esteemed favor of the 28th tees, the others were the most deterJuly last, we have duly received; and mined opposers of the crow. n and steadobserve with the greatest regret your fast adherents to the revolutionary party. disappointment at not hearing from us, BIOGRAPHY OF COLONEL ISAAC SEARS,. agreeably to your expectations, which, -Among those who originated the oppermit us to assure you, was not owing. position to the stamp-act, and who bandi to any remissness on our part, or want ed themselves together at the first enof respect but to the dissolution of croachments of the mother-country, unour society, which happened immedi- der the designation of associated SONS ately upon the repeal of the stamp-act. OF LIBERTY, there existed, of course, a Your proposal with regard to a num- great diversity of intellectual endowber of us forming ourselves into a club, ments; nor did all render to their we have already had under considera- country in those perilous days the same tion. But as it is imagined that some important services. Like the luminaries inconveniences would arise, should such of heaven, each contributed his portion a club be established just at this time, of influence; but, like them, they difIwe must postpone the same till it may fered, as star differs from star in glory. appear more eligible; at the same time In the constellation of great men which we take the liberty to assure you, and adorned that era, Whose united boldness all our good fiiends on your side of the and constancy drbve the ministeral parwater, who so nobly exerted themselves ty to abandon their open attempts, and in behalf of us, and the expiring liber- to mask their resolved purposes under ties of their country, that we still do, measures less palpable to the genelal and ever shall, retain the most grateful perception, few shone with more brilsense of the favors we have received; liancy, or exercised a more powerful inand that we shall use our utmost en- fluence, than the subject of this brief deavors, consistent with loyalty, to keep memoir. up that glorious spirit of liberty which This gentleman was born at Norwas so rapidly and so generally kindled walk, Fairfield county, Connecticut, in throughout this extensive continent. In the year 1729. From the ecords of his order to which, we shall not fail here- native town, we learn that his patent after to celebrate the anniversary of the Joshua Sears came from Harwich, repeal, with every demonstration of Barnstable county, Massachusetts, and glratitude and'oy, on the memorable bought lands in South Norwalk in 1720, eighteenth day of March. from his brother-in-law, Josiah ThatchIe have the honor to he, in behalf er. By the Harwich records, after careof the Sons of Liberty, sir, your most ful researches made by Amos Otis, Esq., obedient and obliged humble servants, a distinguished antiquarian, it appears ISAAC SEARS, EDWARD LAIGHT, that Joshua was a resident of Harwiclh, ISAAC SEARS, EDWARD LAGT, and married Mercy Thatcher, in 1719, F LORES DANCKER JOHN LAMB,.. CUEs. AN~cOLL, JOEH ALLc', and removed to Connecticut. His pilCHAS. NICOLL JOSEPH ALLICOKE. ~. ToAM. NIChOL, merHat ALondon. grim ancestor, Richard Sears, originally To Mr. Nicholas Ray, merchant, London. of Colchester, England, stands Inscribed It was not long before the necessity -one of eighty-nine names-on the first for reorganization became apparent, and rate-list, in the old colony records. He most of the committee, who had acted came from Holland, with sixty persons, with so much vigor and zeal, were found and landed at Plymouth on the 8th of equ lly vigilant on every emergency. May,in 1630, the last, or among the last, Of the persons before named of the of Robinson's congregation at Leyden. New York association, Mr. Allicoke Colonel Sears was engaged for severI alone is known to the writer to have al years in an extensive and profitable espoused the cause of the king. But business, as a dealer in European and with the exception of Messrs. Nicoll India goods, at New York, New Haand Bancker, whose names do not ap- ven, and Boston. But in 1763, when it DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 197 was announced that the British minis- ters, instructions, &c., forwarded to the try had in view to tax the colonies feor sister-colonies, were prepared oy Mr. the purpose of raising a revenue, which Sears, as the chairman of the Lssociawas to be placed at the disposal of the tion. In various ways his appeals made crown, his mind was turned to politics. the most powerful remonstrances against and became in a great measure detached the injustice of England, in debasing from mercantile pursuits. The cause Americans from the character of free of freedom at once became an all-en- subjects to the state of tributary slaves. grossing subject with him. He felt its The "Sons of Liberty" were among inspiration. It occupied his warmest the first who urged the necessity of thoughts, enlivened his conversation, and that mutual understanding and correemployed his pen. In respect to his spondence among them, which laid the private affairs, this was an unfortunate foundation of their future confederacy; trait of character; but most fortunate for led to the first continental congress at his country, since he thus acquired an New York, in 1766; prepared the way extensive knowledge of those principles for the continental congress which asof rational liberty which he afterward sembled in Philadelphia on the 5th of asserted and maintained with so much September, 1774; and eventually reenergy. sulted in the public and explicit declaAt a public meeting held on the 6th of ration of independence on the everNovember, 1765, Sears and four others memorable 4th of July, 1776. were appointed the committee of corre- Apart from the higher, the epochal spondence with the other colonies. Bot- incidents in the life of humanity, the ta, in his history of the United States, epitomes of years, deeds, and nations, says that it was difficult to fill the com- there are events which do not claim to mittee; but that Sears first volunteered, be inscribed upon the page of general and was joined by four others, whose history; and yet, fiom the deep local names, he regrets, are not known.* influence they once exercised, still preOn the 26th of December, 1765, this serve a commemorative interest, and committee notified the public that they convey an impressive lesson. The great would soon be called upon. Informa- war of our independence is rife with tion had been received that a further such illustrations. Its memories and importation of stamps was expected. heroes crowd so thicklyupon us, that its On the 7th of January, 1766, they ar- history can not yet be written. But as rived, were seized and destroyed, and each day adds to the legendary store, notice sent to Philadelphia. The an- and we draw nigh the hour when it may swer to that despatch is directed to be traced, time silently distils the mass Messrs. Sears, Lamb, Robinson, Wily, of events, and the mingled vapors which and Mott. No other committee is ascend from the alembic, will be conknown to have existed at that time, and densed by impartiality into truth. that committee managed the correspond- The events we are about to recall, ence with the different colonies, and occurred in New York and its vicinity, with the interior of the state. They between the months of September, 1775, framed articles of union for the differ- and September, 1776. ent colonies, which were sent to the east- The revolution was hardly three ward for concurrence, and after it was months old. But already from the craobtained, despatched them to Baltimore dle of liberty it had strangled its serto be approved, and sent further south pents at Lexington and Bunker's hill. for adoption. Of this, proof is to be The American army, encamped around found in the original draughts of letters Boston, owned WASHINGTON'S command, (or copies) and replies that were ad- and held at bay the beleagured British. dressed to those gentlemen. In the oppressed colonies, a spirit of reIt is believed that the principal let- sistance had organized the resolute yeoThey were John Lamb, Getshom Mott, Wil- manry; and with the victories inscribed liam Wily, and Thomas Robinson. upon the national escutcheon, the patri 198 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. i otic chord was vibrating in every heart. already assembled there, when night upWar had not yet disturbed our goodly rolled her curtain of clouds, the glowing city, which lay in unconscious repose, dawn that shot over our noble bay, dison the mellow night of the 23d of Au- closed traces of disorder, and ravages gust, 1775. One or two riots, the re- of the cannon-ball, on the one hand and sult of political faction, rather than of on the other, the smoke still ascending unadulterated rebellion, alone gave tol from the angry artillery to the powderkens of a turbulent spirit. The Eng- stained rigging of the Asia. Moreover, lish governor, Tryon, still dwelt here, the field-pieces, which but yesterday an object of courtesy, though of mis- guarded the Battery, were gone. These trust. In the North river, off the fort, the timid received as tokens of danger, lay the Asia, a British man-of-war, with and prepared to depart; the intrepid whose presence people had become fa- hailed them as auspicious omens of fumiliar. The public mind was in a state ture victories. of vague apprehension. It remained for The twenty-one pieces of ordnance had its hopes and fears to assume a definite been removed by order of the provincial shape. congress. Col. John Lamb's artillery Toward midnight, our forefathers corps, and the " Sons of Liberty," headwere aroused from their first slumbers ed by Colonel Sears, were the heroes by the thunder of artillery. At that of the adventure. The efforts of the silent hour, the ominous sounds were enemy to protect these royal stores, had unwelcome visitants. The cannon peals proved unavailing. Warned of the inwere relieved by the sharp discharge of tended movement, Captain Vandeput, musketry; and the stillness that ensued of the Asia, detached an armed barge was occasionally broken by the hasty to watch, and if needful, interfere with, footsteps of one summoned to his duty, its execution. A musket fired from this with unbuckled sabre trailing on the boat, drew Colonel Lamb's volley, and ground, or by the agitated cry of a help- a man on board was killed. The Asia less woman, fleeing from the audible fired three cannon. The drum beat to danger. Drums beat to arms; volley arms in the city. The man-of-war susafter volley announced the continuation tained the cannonade. Three citizens of the strife; and the half-waked dream- were wounded, and the upper parts of er no longer mistook these cries of war various houses near Whitehall and the for the echoes of eastern battles. As the fort, received much injury. A son of night advanced, one body of men suc- Colonel Lamb, whose regiment covered ceeding another was revealed by the the cannons' retreat, is now living in blaze of torches, and the cumbrous this city, and in the rooms of the "Hiswheels of the field-piece they were torical Society" may be seen one of the dragging, seemed to leave reluctantly very balls fired into New York that the scene of conflict. By-and-by, troops night. of dwellers in the lower part of the James Rivington was, then, the editotown escaped through the streets, from rial and proprietary publisher of the their menaced or shattered abodes, in " New York Gazette,"* and as the oppo-. confusion and fear. Was the enemy in This Gazette attained the greatest notoriety duthe city? the Battery taken? Were ringthe revolutionary war, and was at first entitled, the troops forced to retreat before a vic- Rivington's New York Gazetteer; or, The Connectorious foe? These interrogatories were ticut, New Jersey, Hudson's River, and Quebec toious foe ese iteogatories were Weekly Adlvertzser. breathed rather than spoken, or if put, This Gazette commenced its career April 22, were not answered. It was a memora- 1773, on a large medium sheet folio. It was printed, weekly, on Thursday; and when it had been esble night, and something seemed to tablished one year, this imprint followed the title, have delayed the approach of morning. "Printed at his EVER OPEN and uninfluenced press, The town was early -astir. At break fronting Hanover square." A large cut of a ship under sail was at first introduced into the title, under of day, many inhabitants were seen is- which were the words " New York Packet." This suing from their dwellings, and wend- cut soon gave place to one of a smaller size. In November, 1774, the ship was removed, and the king's ing their way to the Battery. To those arms took the place of it. In August, 1775, the DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK 199 Osite party subsided in the expression of many a pound of precious types in their its political sentiments, and loyalism was pockets and handkerchiefs. A large ho longer in terror of a Sears, he not crowd, collected by so unusual an event, only gavy free vent to his own views, stood aloof, quiet spectators of the Ecene. but so far forgot himself, as sadly to The cavaliers remounted their Eteeds, abuse those of his radical neighbors. and rode off toward Connecticut, whence Emboldened by their quiet reception of they came, and where, as was subsehis denunciations, he expressed these in I quently ascertained, the offending types still more forcible tones, and doubtless were melted down to bullets. Thus exulted in this victory over whig opin- liberty assailed the freedom of the press, ions. and the balls whilom cast with joy into It was high noon, on Thursday, the types, reassumed their pristine shaFe twenty-third of November. The Ga- and destination; the ploughshare was zette had been issued that morning, and reconverted to the sword. the worthy editor was seated in his cabi- Although no opposition was offered net, examining the new-born sheet, just to these proceedings, by the body of like any gentleman of the press in our citizens assembled near Rivington's door, day, when the sound of hoofs on the there stood upon a neighboring stoop a pavement beneath, drew his attention lad o~ eighteen years of age, with an to the window. Looking out into the eye of fire, and an angry arm, harangustreet, he beheld, with dismay, his old ing the multitude in a tone of earnest enemy, Col. Sears, at the head of an eloquence. He urged that order should armed troop of horsemen, drawn up be preserved; appealing warmly to the before his door. The men and their dignity of citizenship,' which," said he, leader dismounted with the utmost de- "should not brook an encroachment of liberation, and a part of them entered unlicensed troops from another colony," the printer's abode. A few moments and offering to join in checking the inafter, he saw his beloved printing-press truders' progress. The sills of Rivingcast into the street, and heard the tu- ton could not be forgiven; but the mult raised in the compositors' room youthful orator was listened to with re-. above him, by those engaged in the spectful deference by that crowd which work of demolition. To his despair, already recognised the genius and ferthe materials thrown upon the pave- vor of ALEXANDER HAMILTON. ment were speedily transferred to the A detailed account of all the important dock, and the invaders sallied forth with exploits in which Sears was either the leader, or bore a distinguished part, would words Ever i open and uninfluenced" were omitted far exceed our prescribed limits. He The Gazetteer was patronized in all the principal wat elected to the New York provintowns by the advocates of the British administration cial conglress which met in October, who approved the measnres adopted toward the col- I wt onies; and it undoubtedly had some support from 1765; and was the first person who "his majesty's government." The paper obtained made a motion-to erect fortifications on an extensive circulation, but eventually paid very lit- the island. They were projected on a tie respect to "the majesty of the people;" and, in consequence, the paper and its publisher soon be- comprehensive scale. With an intellicame obnoxious to the whi eenie ce iextensive loWhile in England, Rivington supplied himself gent eye, he embraced the extensive lowith a new printing apparatus, and was appointed calities to be defended, and detected king's printer for New York. After the British their vulnerable points. He also acted I1 gained possession of the city, he returned; and, on ctober 4, 1777, recomnmenced the publication of his a conspicuous part in the excitement ocGazette under the original title, but in two weeks lie casioined by the Boston port bill; and exchanged that title for the following: "Rivinlgton's was warmly recommended by General New York Loyal Gazette; and on the 13th of De-ember following. he called his paper,' The Royal Washington to Major General Lee, for Gazette." Imprint: " Published by James Riving- his zeal and fidelity.* ton, Printer to the King's Most Excellent Majesty." The Royal Gazette was numbered as a continua- * The following letter from General Washington, tion of the Gazetteer, and Loyal Gazette, and was dated Cambridge, February 26, 1776, to his aid-depublished on VVednesdays and Saturdays; printed camp and secretary, General Joseph Reed, will be on a sheet of royal size, with the royal arms in the read with interest: — title. I "You must know, my dear sir, that Colonel Sears 200 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. Owing, probably, to his exclusive at- which had attacked them two days betention to politics, he lost his entire capi- fore. * * * We arrived at Canton on the. tal, a few years after the close of the 10th of August, Mr. Sears still remainwar. He had freely expended his ing very sick. After remaining there wealth, and the best portion of his life, three days, he began to recover slowly; in the service of his country, from 1765 and at one period he had so far got the to the successful termination of the rev- better of his disorder as to leave the olutionary struggle. The knowledge vessel, and pass two days with us at the of facts like these diminishes the won- factory; when, finding the air did not der which has sometimes been expres- agree with him, lie returned on board sed, that America should have success- ship. There, at first, he continued to fully contended with Great Britain. Her I gain strength daily; but in a short time physical strength was comparatively after he relapsed, and a flux setting in weak; but the moral courage of her with his fever, the disease baffled the early patriots was to her instead of num- efforts of medicine, and carried him off bers, of wealth, or of fortifications. on the 28th of October, in the fifty-sevWe close this imperfect sketch with enth year of his age. His remains were a short extract from the journals of MA- interred the next day, on French island, JOR SAMUEL SHAW,.of Boston, the first with the usual solemnities; and previAmerican consul at Canton,* being the ous to our ship leaving Whampoa, a tomb only authentic account we have of the was erected over him, and a suitable inlast days of this brave man:- scription placed upon it. To give his "Toward the close of November, character in a few words: he was an 1785, proposals were made to me by honest man, an agreeable acquaintance, Colonel Isaac Sears, and other gentle- and a warm fiiend." pp. 219 and 227. men in New York, to take a concern DUNLAP, in his useful history, has done with them in a voyage to Canton, with much to perpetuate the names of many Mr. Sears to superintend the business. of the Sons of Liberty. He speaks A suitable cargo having been provided, of Sears, M'Dougall, and Willett, as we sailed firom New York, on the 4th of. composing the most efficient and deterFebruary, 1786, bound to Batavia and mined committees, from 1765 to the Canton. *' * On the 4th of July we breaking out of the war, and who were anchored in the road of Batavia. Hav- in active correspondence with the pattiing transacted our business there, we ots of the other colonies, and aided by left for Canton on the 23d of the same their labors to keep up the ardor of month,-Mr. Sears and the captain be- opposition to the encroachments of the ing confined to their beds with a fever, ministry. It is matter of much regret, that more ample materials do not rewas here, with some other gentlemen from Connec- main to do justice to these and others ticut, when the intelligence of Clinton's embarkation came to hand.I * " What, then, was to be done? of the fiaternity. vWhy, Col. Sears and the other gentlemen assured it may safely be said, that wherever me, that if the necessity of the case was signified by me, and that Gen. Lee should be sent. one thousand danger was to be encountered, or revolunteers (requiring no pay, but supplied with pro- sponsibility to be incurred, ISAAC SE tRY visions only) would march immediately to New York. was to be found; and with him was inand defend the place until congress should deter- mine what should be done; and that a line from me dissolubly associated his efficient coadto Governor Trumbull would facilitate the measure." JOHN LAMB. These wee eBoston: published by Crosby and Nichols, 1847, a valuable contribution to oar revolutionary history. phatically the tribunes of the people. Fac-simile of the Signature of Isaac Sears. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 201 NEW JERSEY. 81By THE situation of this state is in some respects quite peculiar. It? is long and narrow, and lies between two of the largest and most /v S~ - ~important states in the Union. While, on the one hand, its territory is thus rendered highly important, as the only direct thoroughfare between them, on the l lllother, strong influences oppose the existence of a single, united spirit among the people. The Hudson and New York city at~~a.'.~h,/ ",'tract the business of East Jersey, as the Delaware and Philadelphia do that of West Jersey. In several respects, however, this state has points of interest equal to any of her sisters of the Union, which will be in'some measure exhibited, even in the few pages which we have to devote to the following description. New Jersey possesses a considerable variety of climate, for a country of so small a surface, as its length is two or three times greater than its breadth, and it stretches directly north and south, while there is a considerable difference of elevation between the low, sandy regions in the southern parts, and the hilly and almost mountainous northern counties. Much of the former district also les near the sea, while the latter is removed to a distance from it. The Allegany range, crossing the northwestern parts, gives them the character just alluded to; and, while it affects the soil and vegetable productions, yields rich mineral products, several mines of copper and iron being wrought-the latter to much advantage. The proportion of good land is not large, as the " piny woods" in the south too nearly resemble the " pine barrens" of the southern Atlantic border, of which they appear to be the beginning; while through the elevated districts are considerable tracts inconvenient of access, or incapable of cultivation. The railroads and canals, however, which cross the state in several places, afford important facilities for transportation as well as for travelling. l l.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 202 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. HrsToORY.-Henry Hudson entered residence on Tinnicum island, buildil.,g Delaware bay on the 28th of August, a fort, laying out a garden, and erecting 1609, and made an attempt to penetrate a church and several houses. Among by it into the continent, a short time be- his companions were John Campanius fore he discovered the harbor of New Holm, afterward the historian of the York (namely, September 3), and the colony, and an engineer naumed Lindriver which bears his name. The first strom, who published a map of the Delsettlements made by Europeans on the aware and its borders. There has been soil of this state were but a little subse- much doubt respecting the grounds on quent to the first occupation of Manhat- which the Swedes rested their claim to tan island. The first Dutch vessel came this part of the country; and they soon out to trade in the Hudson in 1610, and found it contested by the Dutch, who, the fort was erected at the Battery in having reoccupied Fort Nassau and sev1614. In the latter year a redoubt ap- eral other points, were called upon to pears to have been thrown up on the surrender them, and, on their refusal, Jersey shore. About the year 1618, a compelled to submit by force. Governcolony of Danes or Norwegians, who or Stuyvesant, of New York, soon inhad come out with the Dutch, made a terfered, and regained the Dutch posisettlement at Bergen, opposite New tions, and easily reduced the Swedish York. The first settlement in West Jer- posts, finally capturing the seat of govsey is believed to have been made in ernmentat Tinnicum island. This blow 1623, by Cornelius Jacobse Mey, whose terminated the Swedish power on the name is commemorated in Cape May. Delaware, called by them New Sweden. He proceeded up Delaware bay to In 1640, a number of Enlglish coloTimber creek, a little above Camden, nists arrived fiom New Haven, claiming where he built Fort Nassau. He sailed a right to occupy the soil under British in the employment of the Dutch West authority; and thus the foundation was India company, which had been formed laid of disputes, which from time to time in 1621. Individuals obtained charters caused considerable difficulty. The trafrom that association, to large tracts of dinghouse which they erected was deland, subject only to the Indian claim, stroyed in one case; and in others their one of which, opposite New York, ex- goods were confiscated, and some of the tended thirty-two miles by two. One men imprisoned. The British and the man thts obtained a tract sixteen miles Dutch governments had some warm alsquare, at Cape May, bought of nine In- tercations on the question of right to this dian chiefs. Some of these great land- part of the country. It is reported that holders associated, and sent out David' some of the descendants of the early Petersen de Vries in a ship, to make a I New Haven colonists still remain in Sasettlement on the Delaware, in 1630. i lem, Cumberland, and Cape May. He found Fort Nassau in the possession The year 1664 was the epoch of the of the Indians, and no traces of its for- reduction of the New Netherlands (nowv mer occupants. He built another fort, i New York), by Colonel Nichols, at the and left it to return to Hoiland; but the command of Charles II. Sir Robert garrison were soon massacred to a man. Carr soon after obtaircic possession of After another unsuccessful attempt to the posts and colonies on tl!e Delaware, plant a colony, the treachery of the na- having entered the bay with two fiigtives discouraged the company, and the ates, and expended " two barrels of gunenterprise was abandoned. I powder and twenty shot." The same In 1637, two Swedish vessels arrived year, Charles, by a royal patent, conin the Delaware, and settlements were ferred it upon the Duke of York; and commenced on the western side, but he conveyed a large tract, named " Nova lands were occupied only on the eastern. Caesarea" (New Jersey), to Lord BerkeIn 1642, Printz Hall came over as gov- ley and Sir George Carteret. The name ernor, under the appointment of the then bestowed, and which is still retainqueen of Sweden, and established his ed, is said to have been chosen in comtL DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 203 pl'iment to Carteret, because he had de- England; but Andross, still governor ftnded the island of Jersey against the of New York, opposed him, pretending "'long parliament" in the civil wars. that it would injure his colony. At Berkeley and Carteret conferred a length Andross sent to Elizabethtown, constitution on the colony, securing to to seize Carteret and take him to New all equal rights and privileges, including York. liberty of conscience; and the latter was Lord Berkeley about this time offered appointed governor, and took up his his share of the province for sale, as its i residence at Elizabethtown, in 1665. prospects were not flattering; and itwas Having purchased land firom the Indi- conveyed to John Fenwick, in trust for ans, he sent an invitation to Connecticut Edward Byllinge, members of the soci. for settlers, on such favorable terms that ety of friends, for one thousand pounds. many accepted it, and the population of The part sold was afterward called West the colony rapidly increased. Jersey, a designation often used at the But in 1672, difficulties, which had present day. In 1675, the first English arisen between some of the older set- vessel arrived in the Delaware which. tlers and the proprietors, proceeded so ever visited West Jersey, and it brought far that an insurrection broke out, in over Fenwick and his two daughters, consequence of the demand of the latter with a n umber of servants, and a comof rents for lands purchased by the for- pany of settlers. He selected a pleasmer before the date of the charter of ant and fertile spot, which he named King Charles. The result was, that the Salem, and there planted his colony. governor was driven firom the colony; The following are the names of some and he repaired to England for redress, of the colonists: Edward Champness, while his officers were resisted, deposed, Edward Wade, Samuel Wade, John and imprisoned by the people. Smith and his wife, Samuel Nichols, The New Netherlands being recov- Richard Guy, Richard Noble, Richard ered, in 1673, by the Dutch, New Jer- Hancock, John Pledger, Hippolite Lesey passed with her again under her for- fevre, and John Matlock. These men, mer proprietor. But this change was and others whose names are not given, followed, the next spring, by a more were heads of families. It was two permanent arrangement by treaty, in years, however, before another ship arconsequence of which the English were rived, probably in consequence of a difrestored to the possession. The duke ference which arose between Fenwick, of York, to prevent any exposure of his and Byllinge. Byllinge was sharer to title to question, on account of the in- much the greater amount, having ninety tervention of the late Dutch conquest, out of a hundred shares, while Fenwick procured a new patent; and, in 1664, had but ten. Byllinge, however, failed Sir Edmund Andross arrived, with the in his business, which was that of a merauthority of governor of the province chant; and the management of his prop6f New York, claiming jurisdiction over erty here was intrusted to William Penn, New Jersey also, under pretence that and his quaker fiiends, Gowen and Luthe proprietors had lost their property cas, by whom much of it was sold to i by the Dutch conquest. This arbitrary different purchasers. These proprietors man, whose injustice and oppression published a plan of government, under caused so much evil in New England, the name of "concessions," by which gave place to Philip Carteret, in 1675, "the proprietors, freeholders, and inhabwho resumed the government of East itants of each of the ten proprieties, Jersey, and so conciliated the colonists were authorized to meet annually, and that order was restored. He postponed choose by ballot one man each, to act as the demand of the payment of quitrents, commissioners." A deed was then made but, on the other hand, in a list of"con- between Sir George Carteret and the cessions" which he published, he laid trustees of Byllinge, dated July 1, 1676, some restrictions on political fireedom. fixing the boundary-lines as follows: He attempted to open a trade with New "We have all that side on the Delaware it~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I l204 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. river, from or,e end to the other: the Jersey, on the 14th of March, 1682; at line of partition is on the east side of which time about seven hundred famiLittle Eggharbor, straight north, through lies were supposed to be residing in th at the country, to the utmost branch of part of the country. Delaware river, with all powers, priv- A brief notice of important epochs is ileges, and immunities, whatsoever. all we have room to give after this peOurs is called NVew'WZest Jersey; yours riod. In 1702, in consequence of prois called New East Jersey." longed disputes and difficulties, the proTwo companies of London and York- prietors resigned the government of the shire friends were among the purchasers colonies to Queen Anne, who, on the of lands in New West Jersey; and, in 17th of April, 1702, accepted the offer, 1677, commissioners came out to pur- and reunited the East and West into one chase land of the Indians, &c. The province, appointing her kinsman, Edship in which they came out arrived at ward Hyde (Lord Cornbury), the govNew Castle on the 16th day of the 6th ernor. He was grandson of the chanmonth, old style, bringing also two hun- cellor, Earl of Clarendon. The comdred and thirty passengers as colonists. mission and instructions then given him They were glad, for a time, to land at remained as the constitution of New Rackoon creek, and take up with such Jersey until the Revolution. The govpoor accommodations as they could find ernor and twelve councillors were apin the houses and cowsheds of the few pointed by the crown; and twenty-four Swedes whom they found occupying the members of assembly, elected by the spot, and found snakes numerous, creep- people for an indefinite term, met at ing about the buildings. After making Burlington and Perth Amboy alternatepurchases of the Indians, who were nu- ly. Among these instructions was one merous, the settlement of Burlington allowing liberty of conscience to all, exwas commenced, and first called New cept papists, and one prohibiting printBeverley, and afterward Bridlington; ing in the colony. soon after which it received its present In 1702, the period when New Jersey name. The following are some of the became a colony of the crown, the popmasters of families who formed this set- ulation was estimated at twenty thoutlement: Thomas Olive, Daniel Wills, sand; of which twelve thousand were William Peachy, William Clayton, John set down for East, and eight thousand Crips, Thomas Eves, Thomas Harding, for West Jersey. Lord Cornbury was Thomas Nositer, Thomas Fairnsworth, kept in prison, for debt, from 1703 till Morgan Drewit, William Renton, Hen- the death of his father, when he was ry Jenings, William Hibes, Samuel raised to the peerage, and was released Lovett, John Woolston, William Wood- by law. He is said to have been more mancy, and Christopher Saunders; Rob- detested by the people than any other ert Powell, William Wilkinson, and Wil- governor the province had ever had. liam Perkins, died on the passage, but Governor Lovelace, Lieut. Governor Inleft families. goldsby, and Governor Hunter, were in In 1679, George Carteret died, and, turn at the head of the colony; under according to his will, East Jersey was i the second of whom paper-currency was sold, to pay his debts. The indenture first introduced into New Jersey, with of lease and release is dated February its long train of evils. One of the pre1 and 2, 1681-'82, and conveys the texts for it was to raise funds for an property to William Penn and eleiven expedition against Canada. William others, who, in the following year, pub- Burnet, son of the celebrated Bishop lished a description of the country, with Burnet, was appointed governor in a plan of a town. These men were 1710, and held the office ten years, and called the " twelve proprietors." Each afterward was governor of New York of these took a partner; and to these and New Jersey until 1727. The last "twenty-four proprietors" the duke of of the royal governors was William York made a new grant of East New Franklin, son of the celebrated Benja DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 205 mrin. He entereduponhis officein 1763, invested with the powers of governthe epoch signalized by the treaty by ment. In vain the governor made anwhich France ceded Canada to Great other effort at resistance. He held one Britain, and thus terminated the harass- more meeting of the legislature; but it ing wars which for half a century had was the last. They would not consent caused g- eat evil to the colonies. New to declare that they had no intentions to Jersey contributed liberally to the expe- proclaim independence. The body was ditions marched against Canada in 1758, prorogued till January, 3, 1776; but it 1759, and 1760; for, although her quota never met again. was but five hundred men, she raised The provincial congress assembled ar.9 supported a thousand, and, in 1761, again on the 10th of June; and, on the and 1762, six hundred men, and incurred I8th of July, a few days after the deca debt of forty thousand pounds. laration of independence at PhiladelAs the Revolution approached, New phia, New Jersey assumed the title of a Jersey was among the foremost oppo- state. The seal which was then adopted sers of British oppression. In July, and made is still in use, though much 1774, the people of the different coun- worn. A copy of parts of it is under ties held meetings to express their con- the vignette at the head of this descripdemnation of the closing of the port of tion. The head of a horse over a globe Boston, &c., &c. Delegates went to the is supported by figures of Liberty and congress in Philadelphia, who reported Ceres, while three ploughs are placed to the assembly, on the 11th of January, between them, and the following legend 1775. surrounds the whole: "The great seal The governor, however, who was op- of the state of New Jersey: MDCCLXXVI." posed to resistance, endeavored to -de- It is made of silver, two and a half inchfeat the wishes of the people and legis- es long, and three eighths in thickness. lature, particularly by refusing to con- On the 25th of June, Governor Frankvoke the latter. The delegates were, lin was made prisoner, by the command therefore, appointed by a convention. of the provincial congress, as an enemy On the 23d of May, 1775, the second to the liberties of the country, and sent convention assembled at Trenton, and to Connecticut, under a guard, to be kept laid a tax of ten thousand pounds, to under the charge of Governor Trumbull, support a company or more, which it who placed him, with several other adordered to be raised in each of the town- vocates of British authority, in Middleships and corporations. This was con- town. When released, after a considfirmed by the provincial congress, which erable time, he went to England, where met in August following, and directed he enjoyed a pension. the organization of fifty-four companies, William Livingston was appointed of sixty-four minute-men each. Ten governor of New Jersey, by the new battalions were accordingly formed: legislature, on the 31st of August; and one in each of the counties of Bergen, he was annually re-elected for fourteen Essex, Middlesex, Monmouth, Somer- years. And now commenced the long set, Morris, Sussex, Hunterdon, and course of trials which the Revolution Burlington, and one in Gloucester and brought in its train, and in which this Salemr. together.. Independent light-in- state suffered most severely. Her pefantry and rangers were raised in Cum- culiar situation, which renders it, during berland and Cape May. peace, the thoroughfare of important At the same meeting, a resolution was commerce and travel, exposed her, in adopted which rendered the people and the war, to the passage and the occupatheir representatives less dependent on tion of armies, and as the theatre of the will of the governor. It provided incursions. The navigable waters on that, during the controversy with the her boundaries, so convenient and safe mother-country, the voters should annu- to the hundreds of merchant-ships and ally meet and choose deputies to the steamboats, by which they are crowded provincial congress; and this body was in our day, then gave too easy access to I 11 206 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. the enemy's fleets and squadrons. Her revellers were to be imprisoned till plains, now covered with fields and vil- morning, examined, and, if necessary, lages, churches, schoolhouses, and coun- bound over to appear in court. From try-seats, and crossed by canals and rail- 1675 to 1682, " the resistance of lawful roads, which science has marked out, authority by word or action, or,he exand which industry employs, were then pression of disrespectful language refertraversed by armed troops, and often ring to those in office," was punishable. stained with blood. On the heights In 1676, all liars were added to the list, I where the husbandman or the citizen with a fine of twenty shillings for the j comes to erect his rural residence,*are second offence. often found traces of entrenchments, The first day of public thanksgiving thrown up at the command of Lord was appointed by the general assembly Howe or of General Washington. In on Wednesday, November 2, 1676; the the following pages will be found brief second, on account of the discovery of notices of some of the principal military the gunpowder plot, November 26, 1679; movements and events which took place the third, June 11, 1696, for the defeat in the course of the war. of the plot against King William. New Jersey has the honor of being a Slavery was introduced in the earliest very early and decided advocate of tem- days. The " concessions," in the time perance; the value of which our coun- of Carteret, offered to every colonist one try has been solemnly taught by a long hundred and fifty acres of land; and, course of bitter experience. The mod- "for each weaker servant or slave," ern practice of opposing intemperance seventy-five acres. But few, if any, by association is extensively adopted in slaves were then brought into the colothis state. ny. At a subsequent period, however, The first laws of the colony imposed they were imported in great numbers; fines of a shilling and two shillings and barracks were erected, as tradition and sixpence for what they denominate relates, at Perth Amboy, to receive ne"the beastly vice, drunkenness;" and, groes from slave-ships. In 1734. an in 1682, the sum was raised to five shil- alarming negro-rising occurred on the lings, and sitting in the stocks for six Raritan, the object of which was to obhours was substituted when that was tain liberty by massacring the whites, and not paid. Liquors, however, were then joining the Indians and French. From allowed to be sold in small quantities, allusions made in some of the old newsthough at first they were not. In 1688, papers, it appears that negroes were an "' ordinary," or tavern, was required sometimes burnt alive for certain offenby law to be kept in each town; but the ces. In 1750, two negroes were punkeepers were restricted in the sale of ished in this manner, for the murder of liquors to quantities not less than two their mistress, and all the blacks in the gallons. In 1677, they were allowed to neighborhood were required to be pressell by the gallon, and, in 1683, by the ent. The law under which this horrible quart. punishment was inflicted was passed in The decent observance of the Lord's 1714, and provided for capital punishday was required by law. Swearing was ment for murder, &c., " in such manner fined one shilling in 1668, and, in 1]682, as the aggravation or enormity of their two shillings and sixpence for each oath. crimes shall merit and require." The If the fine was not paid, the culprit was mode of trial was changed in 1768, but put into the stocks, if under twelve years the manner of death was not fixed. In of age, or whipped, if above that age. 1778, an insurrection was apprehended. "All prizes, stage-plays, revels, games, Early attempts were made at the masques, bull-baitings, and cock-fight- whale-fishery on the coast; but De Vries ings, which excite the people to wicked- said it was unprofitable in 1633. ness, cruelty, looseness, and irreligion," Roads and other channels of commilwere to be discouraged and punished by nication, for which New Jersey is now courts of justice; and nightwalkers and so remarkable, were commenced under DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 207 thie direction of the colonial legislature, TRENTON, the capital of the state, is ini 1676. The first roads were those pleasantly situated at the falls or rapids used by the Dutch, in going from New of the Delaware, and the mouth of AsYork to their settlements on the Dela- sunpink creek, in forty degrees and thirware, and were horse-tracks. The up- teen minutes north latitude, and two deper road extended from Elizabethtown grees and sixteen minutes east longitude point, or near it, to New Brunswick, firom Washington. It is fifty-five miles * probably the route now called " the old southwest from New York, thirty miles road," crossing the Delaware, by fording, northeast from Philadelphia, and ten a little above Trenton. The lower left miles southwest from Princeton. The the upper five or six miles from the Rar- population, in 1850, was 6,766, or, initan, and extended to Burlington. In cluding the borough of South Trenton, 1695, the innkeepers at Elizabethtown, more than 9,000. Piscataway, and Woodbridge, were Thie Statehouse stands on the elevated taxed to keep this road in repair; but bank of the Delaware, in the north part only ten pounds were expended upon it of the city, commanding a pleasing view annually. In 1744, stage-wagons ran down a green slope to the level borders twice a week between New Brunswick of the stream, which here is shallow. and Trenton. In 1750, a stage-boat be- The building is of stone, plastered, and gan to sail from New York, once a week, is one hundred feet long, sixty wide, and for Amboy, and a wagon left the latter contains halls for the two houses of the place the next day for Philadelphia. legislature, offices, cormittee-rooms, The next year an opposition boat was &c. There is a spacious yard around advertised, with " a fine, commodious it, which sets off the building to advancabin, fitted up with a tea-table," &c., tage. to run twice a week. In 1756, a stage- The city contains, also, the lyceum, line began to run between Philadelphia the city-hall, and seven churches; and and New York, in three days, through the stateprison is at a sLort distance. Trenton and Amboy. The bridge is of wood, eleven hunThe first newspaper in the colony was dred feet long, with five arches resting the "New Jersey Gazette," begun De- on four piers and two abutments. It cember 5, 1777, at Burlington, by Isaac was commenced in 1804, and constructed Collins, which cost twenty-six shillings by Mr. Burr, on whose skill it reflects a-year. The sheet was only twelve by much honor, as it has lasted nearly half eight inches; and the paper ceased to a century, and was passed uninjured by appear in 1786. The second monthly the flood of 1841, which destroyed others magazine in the whole country was built long after it. It serves not only "The American Magazine," published for the purposes of ordinary vehicles, at Burlington, which began in 1758, and horses, and footmen, but sustains the expired at the end of two years. Each tracks of the Philadelphia and Trenton number contained about forty pages oc- railroad. tavo, and the matter was very respecta- The County Buildings.- These a: e ble. The printer of this workwasJames situated in South Trenton. The courtParker, son of Samuel Parker, of Wood- house is a neat edifice, with six Ionic bridge. He was apprenticed to William columns and a cupola. The basement Bradford, the first printer in New York, is of sandstone, and the steps of granite. in 1725, and was advertised by him as The offices of the clerk and surrogate a runaway in 1733. But nine years af- stand a little in the rear. All are neat. ter he was at the head of a respectable ly stuccoed. establishment: and he must have be- The Stateprison is constructed on a come reconciled to his old master, for singular plan. The front building conhe noticed his death, in 1752, in a very tains the residence of the keeper and his respectful printed article. He brought assistants; and in the rear are two long the first printing-press into New Jersey, wings, running back from it, diverging in 1751, and printed public documents. from each other at a right-angle, with a 208 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. passage leading through each, between sI y, came silently across the river, in two rows of cells. The whole is sur- three divisions, nine miles above, by rounded by a stone-wall, three feet thick, pushing their way, in the best manner and twenty feet high, enclosing a square they could, through the ice. It was of four acres. Tubes pass through the morning before they reached the town, cells to warm them in winter, and flues when' two bodies of troops fell upon the are made in the walls for ventilation. enemy at once, fiom different quarters, The prisoners are kept at work, ma- pressing immediately toward the middle king chairs and shoes, and weaving. By of the town, to prevent the enemy from judicious management, with cash sales, forming. They made no regular stand, the income has been made to defray the and some of them attempted to escape expenses, and even to leave a surplus. to Princeton, but were prevented; when All communication is prevented, and at- the whole body surrendered, amounting tention is paid to the moral improvement to twenty-three officers and eighty-six of the inmates. The prison contains a men. Only twenty or thirty were killed, library for their use, of three hundred and eight wounded, including the comvolumes. mander. On the American side were The Battle of Trenton.-This place none killed, and' only two officers and was the scene of one of the most cele- one or two privates wounded. A few brated of Washington's master-strokes. of the enemy escaped by the Bordentown He excelled most commanders in stri- road, which General Ewing was to have king an unexpected and successful blow, provided against; but he was unable to just at the time when it would produce cross the river. General Cadwallader, the most important effects, by intimida- with the Pennsylvania militia, was liketing his enemies, and encouraging the wise unable to take part in the affair, country. as only a small part of his troops could In December, 1776, the American be got over. Washington had intended army had long been on the defensive, or to capture the other posts on the Delarather had retired, for fear of the enemy, ware; but he thought it prudent to rebeyond their reach. After the capture cross the river the same evening, and of New York, in August, Washington, thus retired to Pennsylvania. with the remains of his army, after un- The Battle of Assunpink was fought a successful attempts to make a stand at short time after that of Trenton. Washdifferent points, had been driven across ington, finding the enemy did not adNew Jersey, and, barely escaping cap- vance, again crossed the Delaware, and ture, retreated into Pennsylvania. To took post on the south bank of AssunI many the war seemed already at an end. pink creek. On the 2d of January, four The British troops proceeded to occupy or five thousand British troops marched the principal points on the great road from Princeton to attack him. The enthrough the state, and three regiments emy made three charges upon the bridge, of Hessians, under General Rahl, and a but were repulsed by his cannon, with troop of light-horse, were quartered at about 150 killed. When night came on, Trenton. On the evening before Christ- Washington, knowing his force quite inmas, December 25th, there was not an sufficient, ordered the camp-fires to be American soldier on the east side of the well fed, and drew off his forces with so Delaware, and the stream was loaded little noise that the enemy did not with floating ice, so that it seemed im- know of their disappearance. Washingpassable. The Hessians, in security, ton reached Princeton in the morning, engaged in their accustomed celebration which was occupied by a large British of the night with immoderate drinking; force. and about midnight the camp was in PRINCETON.-This pleasant town is such a state as Washington had calcula- distinguished as the seat of the principal ted on, at the hour of his premeditated literary institution in the state, and one assault. A large number of boats, which of the oldest and most respectable in the be had collected with all possible secre country-the college of New Jersey. - ~ ~ ~ ----—.-=- -- - II ~ ~. - =~~~~~~~~~~~ —------- --- - -- —.=Tr_ —l -~ —~;- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=- ------- ~~~~~~~~~, _7-=-=__ —- __ Hi=== BII - ~ ~ ~ —-- -- - DR. JAI.:XzAND1:R' 8,.'HAPEL. DR. R'ODGl~8. THEOLOGICAL $EMIN.AR~ (OF TIHE PRE:SBYTE:RIAN CItURCII. PRINCETON, N 3 210 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. Here is also the presbyterian seminary. Lord Carteret. It contains four churchThe country in the neighborhood is es, a bank, a courthouse, a jail, several agreeably diversified, with a good soil, public and private schools, and about peculiarly favorable to apples. It con- 3,000 inhabitants. Itis situated on low, tains several churches, academies, and level ground, with a goodsoil. By steamschools. There are seveial handsome boat, it has a communication -with New houses, with gardens and yards arranged York several times a day, as well as by with.taste; but the college-green, with the New Jersey railroad, which forms an its several buildings, is the principal or- important link in the great line of railnament. In the rear of it, but fronting roads that now extends along almost on the street, is Nassau hall, the oldest the whole Atlantic border of the United college-building, which has a venerable States. Elizabethport, two miles from appearance. It has four low stories, the principal village, is the lanlding-place chiefly appropriated to the students. of the steamboats. Before the battle of Princeton, it was NEW BRUNSWICK.-This city. the capused for barracks, and the lower story ital of Middlesex county, stands an the for stables, and was defended by a party west side of Raritan river, fourteen miles of the British troops, and stood a sharp firom its mouth, twnitvy-six miles northfire from Washington's soldiers. A can- east from Trenton, and twenty-nine from non-ball entered the chapel, and tore New York. It lies partly in Franklin, away the head of a picture of King and partly in North Brunswick, Albany George II. The library is a building a street being the dividing line. Near little west; and on the east is a building the river the streets ale narrow, and the devoted to recitation-rooms, the chymi- ground low; but on the hill, vwhich rises cal laboratory, &c. A little in its rear behind, everything is changed for the is a new college-building; and in fiont, better. Here are a courthouse, jail, and near the street, and near both extremi- eight churches, with near eight thousand ties of the grounds, are the houses of the inhabitants. Steamboats ply daily to president and the professors. New York. The New Jersey railroad The college was founded in 1742, and passes through the town; and the Delaowed its origin to a division introduced ware and Raritan canal commences here, into the presbyterian church in the days which extends to Bordentown, forty-two of Whitefield; from which two synods miles. It is seventy-five feet wide, and arose-that of New York and that of seven feet deep, allowing sloops to pass Philadelphia. of from 75 to 100 tons. It is supplied Nassau hall, the principal edifice, was by a feeder fiom the Delaware, twentybuilt in 1757, and was thus named in three miles long; including which, the honor of King William III., on request cost was $2,500,000. An old bridge, of Governor Belcher, who had presented now useless, was built across the Rarihis valuable library, of 474 volumes, to tan at New Brunswick, in 1811, at an the institution, and after whom the trus- expense of $SG6,687. There is another 1, tees proposed to call it. The building for the railroad. was one hundred and seventy-six feet Rutgers College stands on the high I lonlg, fifty wide, and four stories high. ground in the northwestern quarter of The governor's library suffered much the town. It was founded in 1770, with from the British and American soldiers, the name of Queen's college; but being who in turn occupied the building; and unendowed, it did not go into operation almost all the remaining volumes were until 1781. In 1810, it was connected destroyed by fire, which, March 6, 1S02, with the general synod of the reformed burnt all the edifice except the walls, Dutch church, and, in 1825, the building which still remain. was purchased by the synod, and the ELIZABETHTOWN, on a small stream present name was given to the instituwhich flows into Staten island sound, four tion, in honor of Colonel Rutgers, of miles from Newark, was named after' New York, a liberal benefactor; since I Lady Elizabeth, wife and executrix of which time it has flourished. I! i.. i\~~~~~~~il ~~~~'' i I I 1 - II t ~l il! P~.'!!11, I" ili =I' iI I!' iY X8~~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~,l!!i~i!!i iiil'li'/'I'"',,l,,ij j;I j~/i / i r!! t!, i ij'iilil ~,' I ~ ~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~l~t!,l!t,,'""~ia Ir1ll!tHftlll~ Il iti 212 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. NEWARK, the most populous town in able for manufacturing by water-power. the state, is situated on a fine, level tract The stream makes a perpendicular deof ground, on the west side of Passaic scent of seventy feet over a precipice, river, nine miles west from New York, in a sheet of foam, which is partly conand forty-nine northeast from Trenton. cealed by a projecting rock. A deep Vessels of one hundred tons come up to sluice, cut through the hard bank, draws the wharves; the New Jersey railroad off the water for the numerous manufacpasses through the town, on the way firom tories below, so that the river is left a!New York to Philadelphia; and here is most dry in the summer-season. the commencement of the Morris and The town contains two banks, a phiEssex railroad. The Morris canal pass- losophical society, with a library, an I es through the place, which opens a chan- academy, fourteen churches, and twenty nel of transportation between New York two thousand inhabitants. It was choand the Delaware river. sen for the site of a great cotton manuThe principal streets are wide, well facturing place by Alexander Hamilton. built, and shaded with trees. Two large i who, with his associates, were incorporasquares, in the middle of the town, add ted, in 1791, with a capital of a million mnuch to its beauty. It contains three of dollars. The early period at which banks, a courthouse, twenty-five church- their design was formed testifies to their es, an apprentices' and a circulating li- intelligence and foresight, as the invenbrary, a mechanics' association, and, in tions of Arkwright were almost un1850, 38,885 inhabitants. The coast- known in the United States. A board ing-trade is considerable, and a whaling of directors was appointed, consisting and sealing company was incorporated of William Duer, John Dewhurst, Benin 1833. Manufactures of several kinds jamin Walker, Nicholas Low, Royal are carried on to a great extent, espe- Flint, Elisha Boudinot, John Bayard, cially in leather, carriages, &c. John Neilson, Archibald Mercer, ThomNewark was first settled by a colony as Lowring, George Lewis, More Furfrom Connecticut, in May, 1666, in com- man, and Archibald M'Comb; and WVilpliance with the " concessions" sent to liam Duer was made the principal officer. New England by Lord Carteret. Cap- In 1792, when this spot was selected, tain Robert Treat, John Curtis, Jasper there were not more than ten houses in Crane, and John Treat, having been sent the place, which was named in honor from Guilford, Branford, and Milton, in of Governor William Paterson. Major that state, and made a favorable report, L'Enfan was appointed engineer, and especially in favor of this place, they began to cut the race on a scale unnewere sent again, and laid out the town, cessary large and expensive, and resignwith the main streets and squares. Thir- ed in a short time. He was succeeded ty families, from those towns and New by Mr. Colt, who adopted a more ecoHaven, at length arrived; but the Hack- nomical plan; and the first factory was ensack Indians''refused to let them land, completed in 1794. It was ninety by until they had satisfied their demands. forty feet, and four stories high; and They soon made a purchase, to the sat- yarn was spun in it that year by water isfaction of the wild men, giving them The year preceding, the operation had one hundred and thirty pounds New been performed y ox-power. In 1794, England currency, twelve Indian blan- calico-printing was done, on unbleached kets, and twelve guns, for a tract of land muslins purchased in New York. The now including the townships of Spring- society at the same time directed the field, Livingston, Orange, Caldwell, and superintendent to plant mulberry-trees; Bloomfield. and, at the proposal of Mr. Colt, a teachPATERSON.-This town, thirteen miles er was employed to instruct the worknorth of Newark, and seventeen north- children gratuitously on the sabbath. west of New York, is situated at the This was, no doubt, the first sabbathfalls of the Passaic, at a spot abounding school in the state, if not in the Union. in romantic scenes, and peculiarly favor- It differed, however, from our common i 1, ~~- - -. - ~~~..___ r~ - — m,,:L~~~~~~~z —-—':-":-~ z-~?.~m-: —--—:: ——' —-:-::-: " " d" —''..., I ~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- _ "i 1.=\,\-r;\\\\~~\~a~~-T _ —-.-. —-. —— ~-;-~1.~ -- —:- ___I__-___. ~ ih~ —== —~Source —=-. —— f —-- the Passaic-; —- River. 214 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. sabbath-schools, in being taught by a Washington once visited the Rev. Dr. hired teacher. In 1796, in consequence Jones, pastor of the presbyterian church of losses of money sent to England for in that place, to inquire whether Chrismachinery, the misconduct and igno- tians of other denominations might be rance of foreign workmen, and the nov- admitted to partake of the communion elty of the undertaking, the company at the semi-annual celebration of it by failed; and the building was leased, and his people, which he had understood was used for spinning candlewick and yarn, approaching. The reply was: "Most until it was burnt, in 1807. In 1814, certainly; ours isnot the presbyteriar's Mr. Roswell L. Colt, son of the gentle- table, general, but the Lord's." The man above-named, purchased the shares general replied: " I am glad of it; that and revived the company; and the place is as it ought to be. I propose to join has long been one of the most flourishing with you on that occasion, though a memmanufacturing towns in this country, ber of the church of England." though it suffered a great and unavoida- The Source of the Passaic. —The picble interruption after the war of 1812. turesque scene represented in the acThe supply of water is very valuable, companying engraving, is at the head and has been enlarged by a dam, four and of the principal stream of New Jersey, a half feet high, erected on the top of the on whose banks are situated some of the fall; and the water is distributed by most important towns mentioned in the three short canals, at different elevations. preceding pages, andwhose waters form The Passaic is navigable'for sloops; and the picturesque cascade, and turn the it not only has good common roads, but busy wheels of Paterson. the Morris canal, and a railroad to Jer- The Passaic rises in Somerset and sey city. Morris counties, and makes a remarkaMORRISTOWN.-This is the capital of ble bend round the county of Essex, so Morris county, and stands on a fine, ele- as to fbrm almost its entire western, vated plain, in the midst of a varied and northern, and eastern boundaries. It picturesque region. It is distant fifty has several tributaries, the principal of miles from Trenton, nineteen from New- which are the Pompton and the Rockaark, and twenty-six from New York. way. The former is formed by the conThe streets are wide, straight, and laid fluence of the Pequannock and the Ramout at right-angles; and in the centre of apo, which rise in New York. Most of the town is a large square, surrounded the regions watered by the Passaic and by neat dwellings, and several churches its branches are rough and wild, aboundand other public buildings. A large and ing in mines, and in forests, which supsplendid hotel here, erected by Mr. Giv-' ply fuel for reducing them. The failure ens, was accidentally burnt in 1846. An: of the latter, however, has been the aqueduct, about a mile in length, supplies chief cause of the abandonment of some the village with water; and there are of the mines. several manufactories at Speedwell, on Standing at the source of the Passaic, a small stream. The Morris and Essex amid the romantic and solitary scenery railroad, extending hence to Newark, which surrounds him, a spectator may was finished in 1838, and affords impor- reflect with interest on the peculiarities tant advantages to the town. of the country through which it flows, Washington retreated to this spot, in and the various useful ends to which its 1777, after the b Attle of Princeton. His waters are applied, during its short but headquarters are still pointed out, as well varied course. It is not in vain that it as different points connected with inter- has its head at so considerable an elevaesting associations of that important tion above the ocean. In its short, but period. Several important events, and busy career, it performs an immense many interesting incidents, occurred in amount of labor, in turning wheels which the two seasons when Morristown was move a variety of machinery, whose prodthe residence of Washington. Hosack, ucts are so valuable as to add materially in his " Life of Clinton," mentions that to the wealth of the state. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 215 I ~~'~~ i _"; Kw s, i he mountaino ead Waters of the Junniata and thle Allegany'ains~~~~ deit onieal fo hirgnrlliei hMountains.'! il Tnis PENNSYLVANIA, Tiis state, one of the largest of the orioinaa thirteen, lies between New York and Virginia, two of the other most extensive of that number, with Ohio on the west, the most populous /tI — and flourishing of the younger memThe V, ~ hwrbers of the Union; while its eastern \t boundary divides it from New Jersey, and it adjoins Maryland for a short Mor1 rI'i(I ~ distance on the southeast. Lake.Erie touches it on the northwest. The Al-'rli~~'.,u,~0,~i~I I legany ranges divide it into two parts: forming three distinct, though unequal sections, counting the mountainous part as the central one. These mountains deviate considerably from their general line in the interior of Pennsylvania. They cross the boundary of Virginia with a course nearly northeast, soon incline northeasterly, and at length run for some distance eastwardly; then stretching again more northwardly, cross the New York line in the usual course, northeast. The most easterly ridge enters the state in York county, and is cut through by the Susquehannah, a river which, instead of conforming its direction to that of the mountains, crosses the entire range nearly at right-angles. The Delaware river, which forms the whole eastern boundary, rises in the state of New York. A system of canals forms an important line of navigation for boats and arks from the Lehigh river to Philadelphia, by which the productive coal-mines at Mauch-Chunk send thousands of tons to that city. The Delaware communicates, also, at different points, with the Delaware and Hudson canal, the Morris canal, and the Delaware and Chesapeake canal, and, through the Schuylkill, by the improved navigation of that river, and the great Western canal line, to the Ohio. At the same time, the numerous and long lines of railroads, crossing the country in different directions, meet the Delaware at Philadelphi; while 216 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. the navigation of that noble stream by often been declared to be destitute. A I steamboats, coasting and foreign vessels, characteristic anecdote is told, by tradiadds another very impolrtant branch to tion, of the sagacity and Chiistian liberthe extensive commerce of the state. ality of William Penn, which forcibly The Susquehannah, though flowing illustlrates the truth, that the way which through regions abounding in various is righft is usually that which is most products, is naturally so much broken profitable in the end. The Indians once by the irregularity of the surface, that it came to him with a complaint that they was navigable only for boats, and at had been under some misapprehension great risk; and, at the same time, the inthetemsof a bargaintheyhadmade more important agricultural portion of with the white men, who had purchased the state, west of the mountains, offered of them a large tract of land. The colstrong inducements to the opening of a onists at the same time represented that channel of communication between it the bargain, though ha-rd for the Indians, and the commercial capital. The ex- was a fair one, and that they welre ready ample of New York encouraged the un- to fight for it. Penn, however, in colndertaking; and Pennsylvania embarked sistency with the principles of' the gosmore extensively than any other state in pel, which he professed, inquired of the the construction of canals. Immense Indians how much more they coisidered labors were performed. Raillroads were the land wolrth than they welre to rein some places connected with them. ceive; and, on being informed, made But the filst results proved uifavolable, such an addition of the articles used in and a genleral depression for a time sue- trade as fully satisfied them, tlhough receeded, so great that the legislature at ally of trifling value, and thus not only length resorted to a temporary suspen- prevented immediate bloodshed, and sion of payment; but arrears are now other evils attendant oll'war, but conpaid, and prospects improving. firmed the gratefill vildmen in their pa. TIE HISTORY of the settlement of Icific spirit and fiiendly attachment to the Pennsylvania, and the early years of its colonists, most favorable to the permacolonial existence, have ever been re- nency of a good undelstanding and firee garlled with peculiar interest, on account trade for the future. of the professions and character of the The relations between Pennsylvania people, and especially their founder. and Connecticut were disturbedl for a The earliest European colony was plant- num)er of years, after the settlement of ed in this state by Swedes, in 1627, or a colony from the latter in the valley of 1628, and conquered by the Dutch, from Wyoming, which was claimed under the New York, in 1655. But the English patent of King Charles, as it lay in her I having taken possession, in 1681, Wil- telrritory, as malrkled out by the two liam Penn obtained a grant of land on parallels extending to the South sea. the Delaware, landed at New Castle, The encroachments of the French in and entered upon the government of i the west, on the Ohio river, thlreatenlled about 3,000 inhabitanits-Swedes, Eng- Pennsylvania, as well as Vilrginia; but, lish, Dutch, and Finlanders. until the Revolutionary war, her inland A place called by the Indians Coa- position, and the obstacles presented by (quanock, was chosen' for the site of a her mountains, contiibuted to secure city, and named Philadelphia, a name her fiom most of the tlials through which corresponding with the pacific principles many of the other colonies had to pass, of the society of Friends, of which Penn in the early stages of their history. was so distinguished a membei. By his Having no internal enemies, in consemild, just, and humane treatment of the: quence of the just and pacific policy Indians, he set an example wortey of pursued by Penn, rhe habl little to disimitation, and gave the poor savages, so turb the peacefiul lives of her inhabitoften milunderstood, abused, and mis- ants, until the Revolutionary war inrepresented, opportunities to display some volved her in a full share of the public i of the virtues of which they have too sufferings and losses. Her capital, after ~,...... i ~"'!-~."~' ~.-x~ -~ ~~~ ~_ —~- ~.... ~:~__ ~ ~~~-=. —.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~___ tj -—' - LP - ~...........'-''' —...............: __- --- -- -~: "~i- ~ --..,~' ~-' ~''~~.-'~'~~.-~....,'~~','?~,~i. ~ i'....-: ~- ~ —. ~-.. -- ~ ~ - 7 - -,, ~ ~. ~i —~, - - -....... -.,,-.. -... -..,,......''.......' --.. ~,~,, ";~ -. ~ -. _ ~... _ ~.,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ic r~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~. t~''~..... i~~ ~ ~ ___'.4 I~j4~ r~ f1 218 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. serving as the seat of government, sub- were established in Philadelphia in her sequently to the capture of New York, colonial days, chiefly by the labors and was threatened by the enemy, in 1778. A example of Dr. Franklin, who for a long strong expedition having been sent fronm time exercised a great influence on the New York to the Delaware, succeeded country, and whose fame is universal. in maintaining itself in Pennsylvania for Massachusetts, however, lays a claim to a time: after several battles, Washington a considerable share of the honor of his retreating to Valley Forge. The ene- character and life, as he was a native cf.l my were, however, ere long, compelled Boston, and there received his apprenII to retreat, and evacuate the country on ticeship in the art which had so strong the west of the bay and river. an influence in directing his practical The " whiskey rebellion," which broke course in life. out in a part of the state, soon after Printing was introduced into the the restoration of peace, kept the coun- bounds'of the present state of Pennsyltry for a time in a state of alarm; but, vania, in 1687, when the first sheet, an 1 after its suppression, Pennsylvania soon almanac, was published by William began to share with other members of Bradford. The first newspaper issued, I the Union, in the career of prosperity was "The American W\eekly Mercury,"' which has so greatly distinguished our a half-sheet of "post-paper," by Andrew i country, and has been one of the most Bradford, dated Dec. 22, 1719. There remarkable of the states for the extent was at that time only one other in the and success of its manufactures. Her colonies, viz., at Boston. The second iron-mines and manufactories, with her was commenced in 1728, and passed, in coal-mines, are the grand sources of her a few months, into the hands of Benjawealth, although her commerce is con- min Franklin. It existed more than a siderable. century. Several others were published CoAL-MINEs.-Among the natural in the middle and latter part of the last productions of the state of Pennsylvania, century; and the first German paper those of the coal-mines take the most appeared at Germantown, in 1739. important place. On both sides of the There were nit fewer than six magaAlleganies lie extensive and apparently zines before the Revolution. " The inexhaustible beds of excellent coal, ma- American Daily Advertiser" was the first ny of which are on the immediate banks, daily paper in America, and commenced or near to the sources of streams, which its daily appearance in 1784. " The have been rendered navigable where the Pittsburgh Gazette," the first newspaper aid of art and science have been required; in the western part of the state, began and the immense and increasing sup- about 1786. "An imperfect list of the plies, annually transported, subserve the periodical journals" published in the convenience and comfort of millions of state, between the close of the Revolupeople, not in this territory alone, but tionary war and 1828, given in the Amerin half the states of the Union. Nu- ican Almanac for 1835, names thirty-six. merous steamboats and railroad-cars, as The number has since greatly increased, well as manufactories of different kinds, in every department. borrow their motive-power from these STATE-GovERNMENT.-The governor mines; while almost entire towns and is chosen by the people for three years, cities derive from them their vast sup- but cannot hold the office over six years plies of fuel. in nine. He must be thirty years of age, The coals of Pennsylvania are of two and have resided in the state for seven kinds; and it is remarkable that, while years. The senate consists of thirtythat on the eastern side of the Allega- three members, elected by the people nies is anthracite, that on the west is for three years, one third being chosen bituminous. The latter has rendered annually. A member must be twentyPittsburgh the Birmingham of America. five years of age, and have resided four LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, &c.-Liter- years in the state, and the last year in ary publications and scientific institutions the district in which he is chosen. The Iie of Phi iladlpha n h......rd ~~~rr_,: _ — ~'';~i,'~[~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- - ~ - {mm!~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~T Vie ofPhladlphaandth a y-yard 220 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. house of replesentatives consists of one abilities of the machinery employed in hundred members, elected annually by mining and transporting, that the prosthe people. A member must be twenty- pects of the business are almost too great one years of age, have resided in the to be mentioned. Professor Bakewell state three years next preceding his remarks, that the proximity of coalelection, and the last year in the district mines and beds of iron ore afford strong for which he is chosen. evidence of the provision made by the All judicial officers are elected by Almightyforthebenefit ofman. Pennthe people at the regular state election. sylvania, says the Merchants' Magazine, The judges of the supreme court hold is the only state which h-as direct a'-,,ss, their offices for fifteen years; those of by water, at once to the ocean, the lales, the court of common pleas hold Iheirs and the Mississippi: we perceive that for ten years; and the associate judges her position justifies high anticipations of the court of common pleas hold theirs of her future wealth and prosperity. for five years. The secretary of state The real estate of Pennisylvania, accordis appointed by the governor, and holds ing to the same work, was estimated, in office during his pleasure. The treas- 1846, on the best data, at one thousand urer is elected annually by the joitlt- four hundred millions of dollars, and ballot of both houses of the legislature. the personal property at seven hundred The legislature meets annually at Har- millions; making an aggregate of two risburgh on the first Tuesday in January. thousand one hundred millions, or more I The Merchants' Magazine, just quo- than three times that of New York. ted, well describes Pennsylvania in the Such an estimate must surprise almost following figurative language:- every one; but, to sustain it, the writer "She is, indeed, the keystone state. gives the following statements:"Each While one arm rests on the Atlantic, of the three vast beds of anthracite coal, she lays the other on the Ohio, and her in this state, are about five miles in hand plays with the waters of the lake. breadth, and sixty-five in length, with Within her hills is stowed the fuel of an area of 325 square miles, or 208,000 ages; and iron, the world's civilizer, to acres; that is, in all, 975 square miles, bind the continent, and insure the sta- or 624,000 acres. If the supply of coal bility of this great government; Erie, from anthracite mines, for 1847, is estiher outlet on the lake, Pittsburgh, the mated at 2,800,000 tons, at four dollars head of the eastern branch of the mighty per ton, which is the average price at valley, and Philadelphia, not only the tide-water, we have an amount of eleven beautiful city of the plain, but destined millions two hundred thousand dollars. to be the leading city of the north, a city Most of the mines are owned by citiworthy so great a state. In her present zens; and the balance of trade with competition, her rivals are east. The other cities is constanitly in favor of mass of productions of the forest, agri- Philadelphia." culture, and the mines, are derived from It is amusing to record some of the Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, and anecdotes related of the coal-trade in its the ascending trade of the Mississippi early days. MIr. Charles Miner, of valley." Wilkesbarre, and Mr. Cist, sent off' the The coal-mines of England, it has first ark-load of coal fiom Mauch Chunk, been remarked by the president of the I on the 9th of August, 1S14. The boat British Statistical society, have yielded soon ran against a rock, which broke a more profits than were ever derived firom hole in it. The men prevented the leak the gold-mines of Peru; but, without I from sinking it, by taking off their coats the aid of steam, they would have been andll stitlling them into the hole When comparativ'ely worthless. Thc prod,:cts at lenwlgh the cargo reached Philadelof the Petnnsylvania coal-mines are al- pi.ia, thel expeluses aoounted to fourteen ready so great that it would be difficult dollars a ton. The owners then found to estimate them; and such are the an- it necessary to call at houses, blacknual increase of the demand, and the smith-shops, &c., and urge the people -- ~ ~: -— = — -== - ----— ~ - - =- if-l ----------— ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ —------- CI-== _- -31 —— P l p E a =S R _rtt!~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1- -- s USE —-' --- ~LC-L-_- L 3~ ==j~ Y=.a.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ — ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~~~~~~Piaepi -- -"xchange.;-; = =-=,__ —~-~ DE~SCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. to try the coal in their grates and fur- These principal streets so far alluded to, naces, and even to hire journeymen to form fine, large squares, which are subgive it a fair trial, after publishing hand- divided by streets of a second class, and, bills, in English and German, with a inferior breadth, of which those running minute description of the manner of east and west bear the names of shrubs kindling and treating it. In 1812, Col. and inferior plants. George Shockmaker took nine wagons, Philadelphia is distinguished by its loaded with coal, firom the Schuylkill neatness, as well as uniformity, and connlines to Philadelphia, and succeeded in tains many institutions of science, learnselling two of them. It was with diffi- ing, and beneficence, as useful as they culty that he could persuade any per- are honorable to the inhabitants. sons to try the remainder, which he left Philadelphia is remarkable for a neat without selling. and pleasing style of building. HunThe amount of foreign coal imported dreds of houses, of the first class, have into the United States, in 1846, was basements and steps of white marble; 156,853 tons, worth $378,597; which is and the pavements. which are generally very small, compared with the above wide, are carefully washed and swept. estimate for the supply of anthracite Great cleanliness prevails through a from the mines of Pennsylvania. large part of the city, although the surPHILADELPHIA.-TThis city was ori- face of the ground is so flat as to be ginally confined to a point on the west- rather unfavorable. Sewers have been ern bank of the Delaware, five miles constructed to a considerable extent, above its confluence with the Schuylkill, and the good habits of the people are and about one hundred from the ocean. the chief cause of this important feature The river is of sufficient depth for the in their city, which is favored by the free admission of vessels of the largest absence of great thoroughfares, the passize; but the navigation is subject to a sage of carriages being confined to no long interruption, by ice, during the I particular streets. winter months. The city now extends Markcets.-The principal markets are quite across the broad, level space to the concentrated in Market street, in which Schuylkill, a distance of about two miles, a long line of buildings, well planned, while the northern hnd southern dis- and built for the purpose, extends about tricts, and several adjacent villages, a mile, and is proverbial for convenience having received portions of the increas- and neatness. Abundant supplies of ing population, now contain, together, a the best articles of food are displayed, large, compact mass of houses, with a with neatness and in good order, while population inferior to no city in the Uni- sufficient room is allowed to buyers and ted States, except New York. sellers. For good meat, butter, and Almo~t without a single exception, some other products of the fine agriculPhiladelphia is laid out on a plan of tural districts in the neighborhood, perfect regularity. The streets are per- Philadelphia has long been celebrated. fectly straight, and those running north South of the city lies an extensive tract and south are crossed at right-angles by of fertile meadow-land, where rich pasthose running east and west, at equal' tures and fine gardens aboulnd; the benintervals. The former are distinguished efits of which are enijoyed by the inhabby the cardinal numbers-First, Second, itants. Third, &c., beginningnear the Delaware, The large draught-horses, reared with aA far as Independence square, in the great care by the Dutch farmers, for use cee tie of the city; and between the in their heavy wagons, are seen in great western limits and that point, by the des- numbers. igfnation of Schuylkill-First, Second, T]ne P~iladelp2hia Library is one of Third, &c. The principal cross-streets the earliest, most extensive, and valuaare named after trees, as Walnut, Chest- ble, in the country, and was founded by nut, &c., except the central, which is the exertions of Benjamin Franklin, Market street, and one or two others. about the' year 1727, when a little II.. _ - - — 4 --- -- I -- ---, Ij -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~=~~- -- -- -------------- - ~ - - - - - - - --- i- - - - - -- -- - - - - - - -- - ~~~~ — -*- - - - - - - - - - =- -- - - -: m-ii........- - ---- --!= ------------— ~- ------------ -------- ------------- -~ ~ ~ ~~TeCso-ou e f o mel t h e --— nied — State ank, Phlaepha DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. club of young men was formed by top of the basement story with six beau-: Franklin, and used to meet in Pewter- tiful Corinthian columns; the capitals Platter alley, for reading and debate, worked by the best Italian artists. This and commenced the collection by giving portico is of the height of two stories, their own books. Several of the mern- and communicates with the " exchangebers afterward became distinguished Iroom," by means of nine separate winmen, particularly Thomas Godfiey, the dows, which may be used as doorways. inventor of' the mariners' quadrant. A hall passes through the centre of the Fifty new members were added in 1730, building, from Dock to Third streets, and, in 1742, Thomas Penn incorporated and another likewise communicates with it. The colonial legislature, in 1769, this fiom the north side. Thebasement comprehended several other libraries story is fifteen feet in height, is arched with it, under an act conferring upon it throughout, and has twelve doorways on its present name. "This," says Frank- the Third-street fiont and flanks. On lin, "was the mother of all the North the right or north side of the hall, is the American subscription libraries, now so | postofficC, seventy-four by thirty-six feet, common." and on the left are several insurance The American Philosophical Society, offices and banks, and the session-room opposite the Philadelphia Library, is of the chamber of commerce. Two another of the principal institutions of flights of stairs, one on each side of the the city, which claims Franklin as its hall, ascend to the second floor; at the founder. In 1743, he formed a small I head of' these is the entrance to tile ex- i society for the purpose of pursuing cu- change-room; which is on the east fi-ont, rious experiments and inquiries; and, extending across the whole building, after its decline, and that of a second, and occupying an area of 3,300 supercommenced in 1750, the American Phi- ficial feet. The ceiling, extending to losophical Society, and the American the roof, is of the form of a dome, and Society for the Diffusion of Useful supported by several marble columns. Knowledge. These two societies were Its pannels are ornamented with splen:combined, in 1769, under a common did firesco paintings, representing Comtitle, and Franklin was elected presi- merce, Wealth, Liberty, &c., beautifuilly dent. Provision was made, by David executed, appearing to have as striking | Rittenhouse, to observe the transit of a relief as sculptured work. The roof fI Venus. Several subjects of great pub- of the building is oval, and surmounted lic importance were early considered by by a circular lantern that rises forty this society, which show the science and feet. benevolence of the members. The Customhouse, located in Chestnut The American Historical Society, street, is a splendid edifice of white which has distinguished itself by the marble, on the plan of the Parthenon of publication of the writings of their late Athens, except that the side colonnades president, Mr. Duponteau, was formerly are wanting. only a department of the Philosophical The Girard Bank is a marble buildsociety. ing, with six beautiful Corinthian colThe Exchange is situated at the cor- umns. A portion of it is represented ner of South, Third, and Walnut streets, in our engraving of the exchange. and on the angle formed by the inter- The Bank of Pennsylvania, opposite section of Dock with Walnut and Third the Girard bank, has two fronts, on streets. It was built in 1833, by the Second and Dock streets, each with six merchants and citizens of Philadelphia. Ionic columns. It is constructed entirely of marble-is The Statehouse, containing the halls a rectangular parallelogram in form, of the old Congress, is interesting firom ninety-five feet front on Third street, by its associations with the important peone hundred and fifty on WTalnut street. riod of the Revolution, and especially On Dock street, however, is a semicir- with its commencement. Independence cular projection, ornamented from the hall, the apartment east of the entrance, l~~~~~~~~~~ Al~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~U IA 5t l,,I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~? ('''~,I "i'' "' ~, t l': I', I t ~_____ ____'__' _ ___ ______ _!.:! ~' ~ ______'i _____';)if'!;J " i ~I j it' J j ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~J!i~'~1ii~~]li.~!i~l[ _~ ~~ JJJJJJi JJ'' ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ r~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I ~~~~~~~~ _____________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I I'~ ~ ~~ ~~~~~jJJl i~'!t ": ____________ E I ~' ~'jjjJIJj j,,,,,','I,/,,"Jj j ~Il jlJ~l j!j, 15~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~J~ 226 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. is that in which the Declaration of In- state and the country at large, are likely dependence was adopted and signed, to participate in the advantages of so and in which Washington was appoint- enlightened a measure. ed commander-in-chief of the army. The practice of humanity and ChrisThe large square, in the rear of tian philanthropy, which is made so that edifice, is shaded by many fine old prominent a feature in the system of trees; and Washington square, just be- the friends, or quakers, has shown its yond it, which was enclosed but a few influence in various important departyears ago, has several elegant churches ments. The improvements in prisonaround it, and many fine houses. But discipline, which we have noticed at the mrost conspicuous public place is some length in the description of New Independence square, before named, sit- York, in which state the plan which now uated between Chestnut and Walnut prevails in this country, and, to a constreets. siderable extent, in Europe, was first Girard College.-This splendid edi- brought into operation at Auburn, have fice strikes the eye with admiration firom been partially adopted in this city. Dr. a distance, presenting a noble colonnade, Rush, of Philadelphia, however, first of white marble, of great size, and the recommended radical improvements, elegant proportions of the most celebra- founded on somewhat similar grounds, ted Grecian models. It has been erect- in 1787, at a time when public opinion ed with immense sums of money be- was so unprepared to put them into opqueathed by the late Stephen Girard, eration, and even to appreciate them, long an eminent merchant of Philadel- that they were regarded as visionary. phia, for the education of orphans. The A prison was erected, in 1790, on a plan peculiarrestrictions laid on the execu- corresponding with his views, which was tion of the will, in several particulars, the first step in the way of improvement. threw embarrassments in the way of the The prisoners were treated with more speedy execution of the enterprise, and humanity, kept clean, and subjected to the institution has never gone into op- regular hours, labor, and silence, being eration. watched day and night. They were Sclwols.-Philadelphia has long been credited for the products of their labor; supplied with schools, in much greater- and -half the excess of the amount, after proportion than the state at large, in fines anid-expenses, was paid on the exwhich they were neglected, until 1809, piration of the sentence. But several and were but little extended or improved grand defects of the old system were by the act of the legislature of that year. retained in that prison, which further Within a few years past, exertions have experience condemned. One of the been made to establish a universal sys- principal, of these was the common temn of common education, and great rooms, in which numbers of convicts advances have been made in some parts spent their time together, by day and of the state; but a large proportion of by -night. No vigilance was sufficient the inhabitants being indifferent to the to prevent demoralizing intercourse; claims of education, has -presented great and reformation-the great object in obstacles to the rapid ch~ange so desira- view-was not satisfactorily secured. ble. The German population, distin- The prison has since been demolished, guished as they generally are for indus- and others have been erected, on differtry and frugality, are too much opposed ent plans, on the noitheastern'borders to the improvements desired by many of the city. of their fellow-citizens; and all attempts -The Penitentiary, near Fairmount, is made to rival the noble example of New an immense edifice of granite, with a York and some other states, have been large yard, 650 feet square, surrounded disappointed. In Philadelphia, howev- by a wall forty feet high. The plan Q f er, the public schools have been placed this building is wholly different from upon a very hinh footing within a few any before erected. It is designed for years; and not only the city, but the solitary'confinement, in the sties Eastern State Penitentiary, near Fairmount. I228 _DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. sense of the term. Rows of cells, on Medical instruction was first given I one level, are arranged in seven long by Dr. William Shippen, in 1764, in lines, radiating from an octagonal build- a course of anatomical lectures, to ten ing in the centre, where a single sent- pupils. Dr. John Morgan was his asnel is placed to watch and listen, guard- sociate the next year-both being grading several hundred convicts. Objec- uates of Edinburgh. Dr. Kahn was tions have been made to this system, on made professor of botany in 1768, and the ground of expense, and the difficulty in 1769 Dr. Bush of chymistry, while of finding occupation for the prisoners, Dr. Bond was clinical lecturer in the useful to them, or profitable to the insti- Pennsylvania hospital. This medical tution, as well as to the evil effects, college has now about four hundred stuphysical, mental, and moral, sometimes dents. resulting firom uninterrupted solitude. The United States Mint was erected General Lafayette remarked, facetious- in 1830, after one of Mr. Strickland's ly, while on a visit to this prison during designs. It is entirely of white marble, its construction, that solitary confine- has a front on Chestnut street of 122 ment had been tried on him at Olmutz, feet, and one on Centre square. The without changing his character or hab- whole process of making money, assayits. ing, refining, and coining the metal, is The House of Refuge, for juvenile de- carried on in this building. The mint linquents, in the same vicinity, is con- was established in 1790; and in 1793, ducted on the same general plan as other they commenced coining in the building similar institutions at New York and now occupied by the Apprentices' Lielsewhere, and with similar beneficial brary company, in Seventh street. Mr. results. Vagrant and convicted boys R. M. Patterson has been at the ead and girls are placed there, under the of this establishment for severalyears. charge of keepers and instructors, and Since the discoveries of gold in Caliare trained in good schools and various for-nia, the amount of coinage has been kinds of useful business, and then ap- largely increased. prenticed, chiefly to hiumane persons in The Naval, Hospital is situated about distant, arid retired country situations'. two miles southwest from the centre of Some' of the boys have been sent to sea; the city. The expense is defrayed by and many unfortunate children have funds contrihuted by the officers and Ibeen rescued from ruin by such humane seamen of the United States navy, out treatment. of their pay. The building is on an Thie Pennsylvania Hospital. -This eminence, commands an extensive view, noble institution was founded by Dr. and makes a fine appearance fromat dis.Thomas Bond, in 1751, -aided by Frank- tance. The front is 386 feet in leno'th, lin and others. The grounds are fine, three stories high, and it is large enough and it contains a statue of William to lodge three or four hundred pei'sons. Penn, with West's, celebrated picture, The first story is of granite, and the of Christ healing the sick, presented by second and third o f marble, both of its author, a native of this state. which kindOs of stone are found in abunThe University of Pennsylvania, on dance in the vicinity of Phila~delphia. Ninth street, has two fine edifices, one The western side of Philadelphia is of which is for the medical department. a scene of much bustle and business. The orig-in of this institution is traced Several fine bridg-es cross the Schuylback to 1764, when a subscription was kill, and the wharves below are landingopened for an academy and charity- places for vessels coming from Delaware school, in which English, mathematics, bay and the ocean, for the canal-boats and Latin, were to be taught. It was of the Schuylkill navigation, and the Iincorporated and endowed in 1753; and Union canal, which leaves that line at ramong, its pupils was Lindley Murray, Reading for the Susquehannah. Above, author of the English grammar. It was a fine stone dam crosses from bank to incorporated as a college in 1755. bank, and shows the first of the long V DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 229 and expensiveseriesofworkswhichform finished in 1S13, at an expense of one an uninterrupted channel of communica- hundred and twenty thousand dollars, tion between the Schuylkill coal-mines and exceeded the largest of all others and the city. Fairmount, a high, steep by ninety-six feet in the span. It was eminence, rises near the same spot, on fifty feet wide at the abutments, and the top of which are the immense reser- thirty-five in the centre, being by this voirs for the supply of Philadelphia with form braced against lateral pressure. water, which is raised from above the The Permanent Bridge was erected, milldam, by five large waterwheeis, and at the foot of Market street, by a comallowed to stand for a time in two reser- pany incorporated in 1798, and cost voirs, of the capacity of eleven millions $300,000, including the land. The work of gallons, until it deposites the earthy was a great one, at that early day, when particles. It is then distributed through- no such structure had been undertaken out the city, through pipes more than a in the country; but it was successful. hundred miles in extent. Indeed, it might be regarded as an enThe WVire Suspension-Bridge.-This terprise of magnitude at any period, as wonderful and beautiful specimen of art the depth of the river presented formiwas erected in 1842, at the expense of dable obstacles to the sinking of piers. fifty thousand dollars, by Mr. Charles The western one was founded at a depth Elliot, for the city and county of Phi]a- of forty-one feet below high-water level. delphia. It occupies the site of the Fountain Park.-This is not only one celebrated Wernwag's wooden-arched of the most remarkable situations in the bridge, the longest in the world (with country, in point of picturesque l)eauty, an arch of three hundred and forty feet but also endeared to us by historical asspan), burnt down a short time previ- sociations of the most romantic characously, and connects the two sides of the ter. Here, by the shore of the SchuylSchuylkill at a very important point. kill (or Manayone, as it was called by The length, from one abutment to the the aborigines), occurred some of the other, is 343 feet, and firom one of the most desperate fights recorded in the supporting rollers to the other, at the annals of Indian warfare. Here, the apex of the columns, 357 feet, while the axe of the first settler under Penn awoke breadth, including the floor and the foot- the echoes of the woods. At the hour ways, is 27 feet. The wire, of which an that the battle of Germantown was raimmense quantity was used in the fab- ging around Chew's house, here, at least ric, is one eighth of an inch in diameter. three miles from that celebrated spot, This is formed into five cables for each the Hessians were endeavoring to crush side; each is constituted of 260 strands, a band of continentals, inferior in arms two inches and five eighths in diameter, and discipline, but not in iron courage. weighing four tons, and able to support- After twelve bloody onsets, that poured eight hundred tons. Seventeen short from the hill into the valley, the contiand smaller cables, hanging firom each nentals drove their enemies across the of these, to support the floor-beams, are river, at the ford, whose traces are now made of smaller wires, and able to sup- obliterated by the rising of the waters, port two tons each. from Fairmount dam. This ford is sitThe large cables pass over iron roll- uated on the southern verge of Laurel ers on the pillars, by which the tension hill, one of the most beautiful spots on is equalized, and are fastened around the globe, whose spires and monuments many strong iron bars, transversely jm- are now visible from the mansion. bedded in rocks or masonry. The tow- It was here that William Penn loved ers are enormous columns of granite, to wander, contemplating, either in his from the state of Maine. The iron was walks on shore, or in his excursions on quarried at Juniata, and manufactured the river, the rise and progress of his at Easton-all in this state. much-beloved colony. In those wanThe arched bridge spoken of above derings, perchance, he already saw-for the predecessor of the wire-bridge, was he was a deep thinker-his colony rise -- - - -_- - - -------- - - DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 231 into a state: that state one of the great Perhaps not the least interesting renations among thirty independent com- flection of all is presented in the fact monwealths. that the old mansion, once hallowed by The time is not distinctly marked the presence of Washing.ton, Lafayette, when the original fabric, reared some- and Wayne-enlivened by the visits of time in the commencement of the 18th noblemen of royal blood, is now the doI century, was succeeded by the present main of a gentleman whose only herald. beautiful mansion-the production of ry is recorded in his honest lise to forthe princely taste and spirit of Pennsyl- tune and fame, from the walks of toiling vania's first governor, Thomas Mifflin. life into one of the first publishers and Yet it is a fact distinctly established, literateurs of the country. We need that some of the most important councils not refer to Andrew M'Makin, Esq., held by Washington during the Revolu- proprietor of the "Courier," whose detion, took place on this spot. The grass, lightful family are always ready to exspreading greenly before the porch, has tend the old-fashioned rites of hospitalbeen pressed by the feet of a Frank- ity to the stranger, and render a visit lin, a Volney, a Priestley, a Jefferson, an to Fountain Park (or Aromana, as the Adams, engaged in careless converse, or Indians called it and its lakes) a journey philosophical discussions. of homeborn pleasure. It is rarely that The ambassadors of kings have here literary labor meets with a repose like met the republican fathers of America. this-much more rarely are its honors The mind wanders back, through the worn so well, or with such unpretending arcades of time, and beholds the rich grace. display of contrasts which were exhib- READING, fifty-four miles from Philaited in the olden time-the handsome delphia, is a place of considerable imapparel of counts, dukes, nay, princes, portance, and contains some handsome contrasted with the plain uniform of public buildings. The Union canal beMorgan, the rifleman, or the modest gins two miles below Reading, passes costume of Jefferson, the author of the up the western shore of the river to the Declaration of Independence. valley of the Tulpehocken, and then folWhen Washington was president, he lows that valley till within five miles of was wont to leave his country residence, Lebanon, where begins the summit-levin Gerrnantown, and stroll by the lake el. In all this distance, it rises 311 feet, northward of the mansion, his imposing by numerous locks of four and eight feet form reflected in its waves; or, seated lift. The canal is twenty-four feet wide on the porch, he would gaze on the at bottom, four deep, and thirty-six on Schuylkill, thinking over again the tri- the surface. On this part of the canal is als and battles of his life, from Brad- the tunnel, an excavation bored through dock's defeat to the fall of Yorktown. a hill for a distance of 729 feet, 25 feet These are remarkable associations. being first cut away. This dark and Among other memories, we must not gloomy passage is eighteen feet in width, forget that the singular round, or sex- and fourteen feet high. agonal tower, that rises a hundred yards Schuylkill VWater-Gap. — This is a to the east of the-mansion, was once the narrow gorge, through which the river hermitage of religion and the closet of runs over a steep and rocky channel, for eloquence. The celebrated clergyman, four or five miles, leaving no room upon Dr. Smith, who preached those stirring its banks, which rise abruptly on each and remarkable sermons during the war, side to the height of several hundred built this tower, filled it with his books, feet. The road has been cut out along and here elaborated his most finished the face of one of these ranges, at a great productions. The doctor was a Scot by elevation, where the surface is in many birth, but an American in feeling. His places of such a declivity as to require grandson, Richard Penn Smith, nowre- it to be supported by walls of stone. sides on the ground, and inherits in a The views which are here afforded to great degree the genius of his ancestor. the traveller, are romantic and varied in .....::-....._: =_-_!7:f:::_=-~:~:= -:_-U~:~- -: —-— ~- - - - —:~............ -- --- -- =.-. _ _ -= - - -Ft- -- - - --- --- = — = -- -r - -- lin~~~~~l~~~r~~~iill ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ it F- ountai Pk R —, R o -A-r E ---— s.Ppit- e- - - PhldlhaA —-ca Courie - -=- - = - - -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~rv~~~r==;~;~==^ l ~~~~~~~~Fountain Park, the Residence of Andrew hI'Iakin. Elsq., Proprietor of the Philadelphia American Courier. L, DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 233 a high degree. This interesting scene ploy a large population, and create a somewhat resembles that on the Dela- scene of bustle and profitable industry ware represented in the vignette. all along the course of the stream below, Thie Little Schuylkill River, a branch and powerfully contribute to the prosof the principal stream, runs through a perity of many distant manufactories, valley of the same general description; and to the movements of commerce. and here lies the road to Mount Car- Lchig/h Coal-Mines. —'he first discovbon. ery of coal at Mauch Chunk is said to Tbe Tunnel. —This a place where a have been made by a hunter, as late as hill hag been bored through 375 yards 1791. The first indications he noticed for a canal, about three miles from Or- were bits of anthracite adhering to the wigsburgh. roots of a fallen tree. A company was MOUNT CARBON is near several coal- formed for the purpose of mining it the mines. The coal-country in this region following year, called the Lehigh Coalbegins in Luzerne, on the upper part Mine company, who secured a tract of of the Lackawana river, following its land embracing the present mine, made course to the Susquehaninah, and along a rough road to it from the river, and that stream, principally on the eastern began to dig the coal, and transport it bank, to eighteen miles beyond Wilkes- to the stream. IBut the navigation was barre. It runs south to the Lehigh river, so difficult that the enterprise failed. and thence southwest, through Schuyl- The improvement of the navigation kill county. It extends about one hun- of the Lehigh was commenced by the died miles, and at the middle of the legislature of the colony, as early as the range is eight or nine miles wide, but year 1771. Laws for the same object narrower toward each end. are found in the statute-book of the state, At Mount Carbon the coal occurs in under the dates of 1791, 1794, &c. A beds of four or five feet in thickness, company undertook to clear tile chanrunning east and west, and dipping to nel, and, after spending thirty thousand the south at forty-five degrees, with a dollars, gave up the attempt. Different slate-rock immediately- over it, and strata persons, in the meantime, who had taof sandstone and earth above. The slate ken leases from the coal-mine company, presents the impressions of organized made unsuccessful exertions to transport substances imbedded in it, as the leaves the coal to Philadelphia; the last of of laurel, fern, &c. whom, Messrs. Cist, Miner, and RobinIn consequence of the inclination of son, have been before mentioned. They the coal-veins into the earth, the miners abandoned their attempts in 1815. have, in some places, sunk shafts to the Wonderful as it now appears, the difdepth of one hundred and fifty feet, with ficulty of igniting anthracite coal was lateral excavations, east and west, of sufficient to prevent its introduction for various lengths to three hundred feet. many years; and the incredulity of the Two small carriages, called "trams," public continued to be too great to be are used in a sloping shaft to bring the overcome by the exertions made, until coal out, teing made to descend by the year 1818, when two mining compaturns; but in the horizontal one, which nies were formed; and, in 1S20, three has been carried in several hundred feet, hundred and sixty-five tons were brought they use wheelbarrows. down, and sold in Philadelphia at eight POTTSVILLE.-This is the capital of and a half dollars a ton, delivered, which Schuylkill county, and the centre of the fully satisfied the demand. Both comcoal-business, on the western part of the panies were soon formed into one; since great anthracite region, extending east- which its operations, much facilitated by ward to Mauch Chunk. It contains great improvements in the navigation, nearly eight thousand inhabitants, and have been vast and beneficial. By means enjoys a romantic situation in the midst of dams, the water of the Lehigh, which of the mountains, whose mineral treas- is insufficient for continual use, is stopures, so recently brought to light, em- ped, and occasionally allowed to flow for ILVU~.JV _L~vvrrurJ 1r~i 234 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. a short time, floating down at once nu- tended for steamboats capable of carrymerous rude boats or boxes, called arks, ing 150 tons of coal, one hundred feet laden with coal, from sixteen to eighteen long and thirty feet wide. feet wide, and twenty to twenty-five in The Lehigh water-gap is twenty-five length. It was soon found convenient to miles from Easton, and eleven from Leconnect two of these, and afterward, highton, six miles from Mauch Chunk. three, fourl, and more, so that the ternm- The first objects that attract attention, porary flood might carry them down to- near the village of Mauch Chunk, are gether, without separating them or stri- the lock in the river, and the chute, or king them against each other, while at inclined plane, at the end of the railway, the same time they would conform to down which the loaded coal-cars slide the rough surface of the water, as no to the wharf on the river, where they single vessel of great length could pos- load the boats and arks. The latter sibly do, and might be navigated and carry about ten tons. The trains of cars managed separately at pleasure. Inge- coming down the railway will often be nuity devised improvements of other heard rumbling as the traveller apkinds also; for machinery was soon proaches the village. brought into use, by which planks were Mauch Chunk, ninety miles from New joined for an ark, put together, and York, and seventy from Philadelphia, is launched, in forty-five minutes, by five shut in by rude mountains, of such height men. that the sun is invisible to many of the A branch of the Pennsylvania canal inhabitants during the short days. was finished not long after, along the The railway leads from near the coalwestern bank of the Delaware; and thus mines to the Lehigh river. This was the only remaining work, necessary to the second ever constructed in the Unia convenient and uninterrupted commu- ted States —the Quincy railway, in Masnication between the mines and the city, sachusetts, being the first. It extends was completed. a distance of nine miles, along the side T/e Delaware and Hudson Canal of a mountain. commences at Kingston, on the Hudson The coal-mine lies a little on the opriver, and runs over to the Delaware posite side of the mountain; and the river, through the valley of the Never- coal-cars are first made to ascend to the sink creek, thence up the valley of the summit of the railway up an acclivity Delaware to the Lackawaxen creek, and of five eighths of a mile. The summit up that creek to the foot of the railway. is 9S2 feet above the river. The averThis is a continuous canal of 117 miles age rise of the way is eighteen inches in length. The railway commences at per one hundred feet, which is scarcely the termination of the canal, and runs perceptible to the eye, and enables a over Moosick mountain to the coal-mines single horse-power to draw up three at Carbondale, on the Lackawana creek, empty cars. sixteen and a half miles, overcoming an The cars are made of strong oak timelevation of 858 feet. bers, and plaiked up on three sides, At Easton is the dam over the Dela- with a swinging door in the rear. They ware, at the termination of the works are six feet four inches long, three feet for improving the navigation of Lehigh wide at top and two feet at bottom, and river, from Mauch Chunk to this place. about three feet in depth, resting on BETHLEHEM is a neatly-built place, in wheels with cast-iron rims or felloes two a romantic anddelightful situation, along feet in diameter, one inch thick, and the course of a swift-running brook. It about four inches in breadth, with a is inhabited by Germans, and is the seat strong edge or fianch, one inch in thickof an old Moravian school. ness, and about two inches wide, which The works on the Lehigh river are on prevents them from slipping off the rails. a large scale. The river descends 365 The cars may be stopped immediatefeet, and requires fifty-two locks and ly, by a long lever, which brings str)ng twenty-one dams. The locks are in- bearers against two of the wheels, and DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 235 causes great friction. The guide to ev- Ohio, but it is the radiating point of the ery brigade of eleven cars holds a rope great western system of canals and railattached to all the levers. Several hun- roads; while its relation to extensive dreds of such cars are in use. They car- and fertile regions of Virginia and New ry the coal to the chute above the river, York, as well as of the state to which it down which they are sent. belongs, and the abundant supplies of At the end of the railroad is a plat- coal and iron at its command, brought form, on the bank of the Lehigh river, into use by its enterprising inhabitants, down which the coal is let over one of have given it the highest rank among the rails, on an inclined plane of 750 the cities of the west. feet (200 feet perpendicular height), to The fine engraving accompanying this the stone-houses, the wharf, and the description is copied from one of Mr. boats. Each loaded car is connected to Bartlett's correct and elegant prints, an empty one, which it draws up, by a and gives a just picture of this large and rope that passes round a large cylinder flourishing town; but nothing except a or drum. A car goes down in about one visit to the place can convey an adequate minute and twenty seconds. idea of the amount of business carried The mine opens upon the road by on in various branches of manufacture. passages cut in the earth. These con- The principal manufactures of Pittsduct into an area formed by the removal burgh are all things that pertain to the of coal, where carts drive in, load, and construction and furnishing of steamthen pass out at the other passage. boats, especially the engines for their PITTSBURGH.-This is the greatest use, and such as are employed in varimanufacturing town of the west, and ous mills, &c., with a great variety of has furnished a large proportion of the machines, implements, and tools, of steamboats which navigate the Missis- wood as well as of iron, including sippi and its branches. It occupies a ploughs, &c., &c. Bar and rolled iron low point of land, at the junction of the are made in large quantities, as well as Allegany and Monongahela rivers, whose nails, glass, cotton cloths, leather, and united stream is named the Ohio. It is boards. The steam-power in use in three hundred miles west from Philadel- these and various other branches of phia, eleven hundred from New Orleans, manufacture, amounts to several thouby land, and over two thousand by wa- sand horse-power. Several steamboats ter, yet has almost daily communication arrive and depart every day, with many with it by steamboats. A part of the more canal-boats. city now covers Ayres' hill, and part of There are several banks and insurance the sides of two other eminences; while companies, a board of trade, with an exfour small towns, Allegany, Sligo, Man- change-room and a reading-room, and chester, and Birmingham, at short dis- about a dozen companies managing tances, occupy points on the banks. fieight and the transport of passengers A bridge of eight arches, and fifteen on the canal. hundred feet long, crosses the Monon- The Courthouse occupies the summit gahela, erected in 1818, at an expense of Grant's hill, where it makes a conof one hundred thousand dollars; while spicuous appearance, and commands an four bridges cross the Allegany, as well extensive and interesting view over the as the noble aqueduct of the Pennsylva- city, the river, the neighboring villages, nia canal. The city contains about sev- and the surrounding country. It is one enty churches, and the population, in hundred and sixty-five feet in length, 1850, was 80,000. one hundred in breadth, and has the jail It is rare, indeed, to find so many ad- in its rear. The rotunda, a fine hall, vantages concentrated in one spot, as sixty feet in diameter, is in the second those which combine to give to Pitts- story, surrounded by court and juryburgh its great manufacturing and cor- rooms. The structure is large, substanmercial importance. It not only occu- tial, elegant, and costly. It was five pies the head of the navigation of the years in building, cost two hundred.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_ J 236 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. thousand dollars, and is creditable to the shore on his raft, in his first attempt to state, both on account of its style, plan, cross the stream, on his return from his and execution. Its material is the fine, mission toVenango. Considerablenumgray sandstone, which abounds in some bers of arms are manufactured in the parts of the neighboring hills. arsenal, including ordnance; and here The IVestern University of Pennsyl- a large supply is constantly in store. vania is situated at Pittsburgh. The Here, also, equipments are made and institution commenced operations in kept, for the southern and western mili1822, and the buildings were erected tary posts, the place being at once cenon Third street, in 1830. The edifice tral, and conveniently situated for comhas a high basement of hewn stone, with munication with different parts of the arched entrances, and two stories above, country. with a portico projecting in the middle, History.-The history of Pittsburgh having four Ionic columns. It is sur- is highly important, as it was the first mounted by a cupola, with windows on point occupied, in all this western reall sides. gion, by the English, and was the scene The Tfrater- Works.-Pittsburgh is of contest between that nation and the supplied with water from the Allegany French. Under the belief that "the river, which is raised, by steam-power, forks of the Monongahela" were within to a reservoir on Grant's hill, one hun- the bounds of Virginia, George Washdred and sixteen feet high. The reser- ington was sent, in 1753, to select a site voir is eleven feet in depth, and capable for a fort, who chose this spot; and of containing a million of gallons. troops were soon sent to occupy it, while The WIVestern Theological Seminary Pennsylvania despatched a force for the is situated at Allegany city. It is under same purpose, considering the place a the, direction of the general assembly of spot within her own territory. But, on the presbyterian church, by whom it was the 7th of April, 1754, while Ensign founded in 1825. The building occu- Ward, with forty men, was engaged in pies a fine, airy position, on the summit building a fort, during the absence of of an elevated ridge, rising one hundred the superior officers, sixty batteaux and feet from the bank of the river, and con- three hundred canoes appeared, loaded tains six thousand volumes in its libra- with one thousand of the enemy's troops ry. A workshop was connected with it, and Indians, descending the Allegany. with the intention of employing the stu- They landed and demanded a surrender; dents in manual labor. which was complied with, on condition The theological seminary of the asso- that the English should be allowed to ciate reformed church, which was found- depart unmolested, with their workinged in 1826, is also situated in this town. tools. The TVestern Penitentiary of Penn- The capture of this fort was the first sylvania.-This extensive prison stands act of hostility in the last French war, on the shore of the Allegany, at the as it is commonly called in this country, western extremity of Allegany city. It which continued for seven years. The was completed in 1827, and cost $183,- French commander, Gen. Contrecceur, 092, including all the furniture, &c. immediately commenced the erection of The system of solitary confinement is Fort Duquesne on the same spot. here in practice; and the prisoners are In 1755, General Braddock, at the employed, at solitary labor, in the weav- head of an army, consisting of British ing of carpets, making shoes, and pick- troops and American militia, after many ing oakum. delays, approached this place, and the Thle United States Arsenal is at Law- army threw the French into a state of renceville, two and a half miles above great alarm. Their fort was a mere Pittsburgh, on the left bank of the Al- stockade, quite unfit to resist artillery; legany, opposite Wainwright's island. and Captain Beaujeu, with great diffiThat insular spot is celebrated as the culty, persuaded some of the Indians to scene where Washington was driven on a;-company a portion of the French sol-! _ _ -'I -------- -— ~ r -" —-— "- I;- - --—. —.-.- --- --—.- --- -- - - ------ - — ----- -_ -—. —___._ _ __ _-__. -'-'- -------—` ---- - - - --------- - - --— —-------- — — - — —----------------— —-- -' - --- - - — - ---- --- --- ----- — —- ------- - ------ -— _-__ - —---- -- ----------— -` —--— —-------- - --—` —------- -------- ---— - —----- - ----- --. —- --- -— —-__-_ -- -- - —— —-----—. _ ------- ------ — —--------- -I ------- ------------------ --- - ------------ --- -- ----- --- --------------------- -- -- -- --- - - ----------------- --- ---- ---------— r -~ ---- -- — __ ---- --— I -- -------------- ------ ---- -... _-.-I ---- — ---— _ — -= --------- -------- -- ----- . -------------------- -- - __;T — ----- - ------ —._. __ _;_._ —------- — " ----- ---------------— ~. — - ~ — -- -- ----- ------------------ ------ --------- --- — ___.__. ___ __- -------------------— _ I —------------- ------------------------ ------------- ---— —- =Z —-- _ —--- - —----- -- ---- -- -- ---- ~ —- ---- -- - - —------ ----- L7 - -------- = --------- -— ~ —-— = —- ------ -I-.3;i --—, -- --------- -- ---- -- ----- _ —-- -- i -- --—:~ —-------- ------- ----— r ----------- ---- -- -— —------- ---- ---------------- - —------------ -rr — ~ -- ---- ~ —---------..-... ----— — =I --' —------- -- ----------- --- ----— ____ ~ ------— LL —--- _ --- — rS_ - ----------- ~ -- -- -- - 1 ---------- -=:~ ----- ------— I~ —~- ---- i s —==-= —-— -z~ pC ~, 3' Z-r v, u -c-- a View of Pittsburgh, frore the northvrest.; i tr,, I,, _ _ P-rl --- 238 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. diers to march out and await the ap- mills, several oil-mills, &c., within a proach of their enemies in an ambush. short distance. The Delaware bridge The plan, however, proved successful, cost sixty-five thousand dollars. The in consequence of the self-confidence of Lehigh bridge is of wood, in the place the British general; for, in spite of the of one of chains, which was destroyed most earnest expostulations of Washing- by a flood in 1841. ton, he persisted in proceedingewithout Lafayette College.-This institution, precaution, and would not allow an ad- established in 1826, for a military acadvance guard or scouts to explore the emy, was changed to one of a collegiate trackless forest before and around them. character in 1832; and, two years afterThe consequence was, that, after cross- ward, the building was erected, which is ing the river and reaching a piece of one hundred and twelve feet by fortysmooth ground, up an acclivity, where four, and contains sixty rooms. It is they were among the trees, they received named "Brainard hall." a sudden and destructive fire, on both Easton was an important place in the sides, from large bodies of the enemy middle of the last century, as it was a concealed in two ravines parallel to the favorite council-town of the Delaware line of march, and, after three hours' Indians. During the French wars, great fighting, were totally defeated. The exertions were made by the Jesuits in British commander, and many officers Canada, to detach this powerful nation and men of the two regiments of regular from the English interest Important troops, with a large part of the colonial councils were held here in 1756, 1757, militia, were killed. Those who were and 1758, at which all differences were finally saved, owed their lives to the skill adjusted between the Delawares of sevand boldness of Washington, who here eral tribes and the Six Nations of New first displayed some of those peculiar York, by Teedyuscung, chief of the Delqualities which afterward proved as use- awares, assisted by the quakers, in opful to the country as honorable to him- position to a strong combination of men self. less friendly to the claims of the red Strange as it may seem, there is good men. reason to believe that the force by which The Valley of Vyotming.-This narthat powerful expedition was defeated, row tract of country has attained melanwas quite insignificant. Washington choly celebrity, from the tragical fate of wrate to his mother, nine days after the its early colonies, which has been rebattle, that he was persuaded they "did corded, in an appropriate style, by one not amount to three hundred men, while of the most chaste and popular modours consisted of about thirteen hundred ern British poets. This beautiful and well-armed troops, chiefly regular sol- secluded region is shut in by the ranges diers, who were struck with such a panic of the Shawnee and Lackawannock that they behaved with more cowardice mountains on one side, and the Wyothan it is possible to conceive. The of- ming and the Moosic, about six miles ficers behaved gallantly, in order to en- distant, on the other. It is watered by courage their men, for which they suf- the Susquehannah river, which, as has fered greatly." been before remarked, runs in a direcEASTON.-This is an important town, tion across the rude barriers of nature. situated at the mouth of Lehigh river. On reaching this valley, however, it deThe canal-basin and locks, with the viates awhile from its general course in bridges over that stream and the Dela- this part of the state, and meanders, ware, are expensive works. The coal- with a gentle current, for about eighteen trade, the slate quarries, the surround- miles, nearly parallel with the ridges of ing grain-country, and the manufactories the mountains. It then bursts its way of the place, many of which are moved though Wyoming mountain, and pursues by water-power, combine to render the its course through Columbia county. town one of much business and prosper- The first settlers here were friol Conity. There are at least twenty saw- necticut, as has been before mentioned, ------------- --- ---- -~c-~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ — ------ Al.~~~~~,Z~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~:iW ~~~~t~~~~~~w it';~~~~~~~~~~~~~~A -MNM-RM Th ymn aly rmropc ok 240 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. and several towns were for some time Maughwaurame, just below the site of represented in the legislature of that Wilkesbarre. This was done in 1742; colony, by deputies elected here, who and that same year arrived among them annually performed the then long and the celebrated Moravian missionary, toilsome journey to Hartford. The man- Count Zinzendorf, accompanied by his ners and habits of the present day bear friend Mack, with his wife. The Delastrong traces of their origin, although wares, jealous of white men (in conseconsiderable additions* have beeA re- quence of having been overreached by ceived to the population from the Ger- an artifice in a contract for the sale of a mans and Scotch-Irish of the surrounding portion of their lands on the Lehigh, by country, with many miners and laborers, which they had been deprived of the from Wales and Ireland, in the mining whole), meditated the butchery of the regions. man who had forsaken country and pos"Few landscapes," says Professor sessions for the disinterested love of Silliman, "can vie with the valley of mankind, and devoted himself, with the Wyoming. Excepting some rocky evangelical spirit of primitive Christianprecipices and cliffs, the mountains are ity, to the trials of a missionary among wooded from the summit to their base; the heathen. His life, however, was natural sections furnish avenues for spared; and he, with his companions roads, and the rapid Susquehannah rolls and followers, lived to introduce the its powerful current through a mountain- gospel among that nation of our aborigap on the northeast, and immediately ginal red men. The mission was rereceives the Lackawanna, which flows moved, a few years after, to Wyalusing, down the narrower valley of the same after the commencement of the Cmnriecname. A similar pass between the ticut colony. The Shawnees, in the lowmountains on the south gives the Sus- er part of the valley, had been invited quehannah an exit; and, at both places, by the French on the Ohio to join a part a slight obliquity in the position of the of their nation who resided among them, observer presents to the eye a seeming but had been prevented from a complilake in the windings of the river, and a ance by the influence of the Moravian barrier of mountains apparently impas- missionaries. An accident, however, insable. From the foot of the steep mount- duced them to change their minds. One ain ridges, particularly on the eastern day, during the absence of the Delaware side, the valley slopes away, with broad, warriors, two children, from the different sweeping undulations in the surface, tribes, while at play on the banks of the forming numerous swelling hills of ala- Wyoming, fell into a dispute about a ble and grazing land; and, as we recede grasshopper which one of them had firom the hills, the fine flats and mead- caught. This at length drew in their ows, covered with the richest grass and parents and friends, until, to settle a wheat, complete the picture, by features question of rights and boundaries which of the gentlest and most luxuriant beau- was raised, it led to a battle, and the ty." (defeat and expulsion of the Shawnees. The lower part of Wyoming valley Thus enmity was created on both sides, was occupied by some of the Shawnees, which, with other causes, laid the way soon after the arrival of William Penn for the scenes of blood which ere long at Philadelphia, those Indians having ensued. received permission to settle there from The charter of Pennsylvania was unthe Six Nations, who claimed the coun- happily drawn up so as to interfere with try. When some of the Delawares, not that of Connecticut, both embracing this long subsequently, were driven, by the region, the right to which was vested by encroaching whites, from their lands the former in William Penn, and by the above the forks of the Delaware and latter, at a time long anterior, in the Lehigh, the Six Nations allowed them people of Connecticut. Under these to occupy the eastern side of Wyoming circumstances, the first settlers from that valley, where they built a town called colony arrived in 1762, to the number _.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 241 of two hundred; and a long course of the other, than they began to threater remonstrances, rivalry, military prepa- and rob the inmates, whose weakness rations, and even military operations, i they had now discovered. They, howcommenced between them and the Penn- ever, did not proceed to bloodshed; but sylvanians. as it was perceptible that no security In 1777, at a time when almost all the could be enjoyed, the people in a few able-bodied men of the Copnecticut set- days followed the example of their predtlements were absent with t-. 3 Revolu- ecessors, and set out on foot to find some tionary army, a large body of Indians place of safety. For several days and came down the Susquehannah, led by nights the houses and barns were buim - the inhuman Colonel John Butler, whose ing in all parts of the valley, while hunsavage conduct at Chelry valley has dreds of corpses lay bleeding, from the been noticed in the description of New weapons of the white and the red men, York. His force consisted of his own who seemed to rival each other in wantory rangers, a detachment from SirJohn ton barbarity, thus adding another to the Johnson's Royal Greens, in all about four awful lessons which history has so often hundred, and seven hundred Seneca In- recorded, on the diabolical spirit that dians. To meet them, only four hundred I war can enkindle in the human heart. could be mustered, consisting chiefly of In 1779, Gen. Sullivan passed through old men and boys, and these undrilled, the valley with his army, on his expediill provided with arms, and many of them tion against the Six Nations, and, in Ocunaccustomed to war, and ill-fitted for tober, returned to Easton, whence he the field by their youth or age. Choos- had marched, having devastated some ing for their leader Colonel Zebulun of the richest of their country. Butler, who happened to be at the place, In March, 1784, after the valley had l they took post on the side of the Sus- again become populous, on the breaking qui hannah, with the steep bank on their up of the ice in the river, a dam was right, and a swamp on their left, and formed, by its stopping, at the narrow there withstood the enemy, until, after gorge through which it leaves this beaua desperate fight, and the loss of two tiful region. The water rapidly rose thirds of their number, the invaders tri- over the land, driving the inhabitants to umphed. MIany of the prisoners were the hills, and leaving, after subsiding, butchered in cold blood after the sur- many lands injured, and much property render; and numbers of those who es- destroyed. caped, were barely able to reach their After the close of the Revolutionary women and children, left in the stock- war, violent animosities were raised beaded forts below, in time to induce them tween the " Pennamites" and the " Conto desert the valley and seek safety in necticut boys," as the two old parties flight. Hundreds of weak and defence- were called, and were carried to great less widows and orphans were soon wan- lengths; but a permanent adjustment dering over the mountains, and pursuing of the long dispute was finally made by their melancholy way to distant settle- the legislatures of the two states interments, and even back to Connecticut. ested. Sonme pIarties lived for several days on MONTGOMERY COUNTY is a part of the whortleberries; and one, consisting of state most. abounding in iron-mines. It a hunired persons, had but a single is situated in the heart of the central man. One of the stockades, called Fort range of mountains, and is exceedingly Forty, having received a few of the fu- wild and rough, with small valleys ingitive soldiers, made a show of defence terposed between numerous tall and on the approach of the victorious ene- romantic eminences, such as Tuscarora my, and obtained an honorable capitu- mountain, Black Log, Sideling hill, the lation, drawn up in the handwriting of Terrace, Allegripus, Tussey's, Black their clergyman, and signed by Colonel Eagle, &c. Near the southwestern exButler; but, no sooner had the tories tremity of the county rises a very conentered at one gate, and the Indians at spicuous and remarkable eminence, 16 242 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. called Broadtop mountain, which con- Were first held by the friends, or quatains a singular coal-basin, with thin kers, in Oxford, in 16S3, and in Horsseams of bituminous coal, fiom one to ham in 1716. The first meetinghouse four feet in thickness. The Juniata of the Welsh friends was built in North river, with several of its branches, wa- Wales in 1700, and the,second in 1712. ters different parts of this wild, Alpine In lower Merion township, a friends' region. meetinghouse was erected as early as Montgomery county lies along the 1695, which is still standing and in use, Schuylkill river, and formerly belonged having been lately repaired. to Philadelphia county. It comprehends The first Swedish church was erected some of the earliest settlements, with at Swedesford in 1763, the Swedes havremains of the first colonists, and evi- ing come into the county, as it appears, dences of their substantial habits, as some time after the WVelsh. The Swewell as some of the more modern works dish churches, in different towns in this of internal improvement. The surface is county, were incorporated together, by agreeably varied, with much picturesque John Penn, in 1765, and this charter scenery, whose beauties are enhanced was renewedin 1787, by the state legisby the hand of persevering and success- lature. Remains of old Swedish cusful culture, as well as by the works of toms, as well as families, are still found, science, enlisted in the service of an en- especially about Norristown. lightened public spirit. A few Germans, having early come The southeastern extremity of the over from Europe to join the colonists county is traversed by a belt of primi- of William Penn, and settled Germantive rocks. The primitive limestone of town, near Philadelphia, sent back to the Great valley crosses the Schuylkill their countrymen such favorable acat Swedesford and Conshohocken, af- counts that they had numerous followfording valuable quarries for the supply ers, especially firom the Palatinate, beof white marble to Philadelphia; -and tween 1700 and 1730. They occupied red shale constitutes the rocks of other the territory about the head-waters of parts, whose debris forms a productive Perkiomen creek, and Lutheran and soil, while sandstones prevail in some German reformed churches were afterplaces. Stone turnpikes, and other good ward founded. In 1741, however, alroads, are numerous. The Reading rail- though there were about a hundred Luroad and the Norristown and Philadel- theran communicants at New Hanover, phia railroad pursue the course of the; or the Swamp, the only place of worship Schuylkill for some distance, while the I was a log-hut, and it was not until 1767 works of the Navigation company, be- that a church was built of stone, which fore mentioned, afford another important is still in use by a congregation of five channel of transportation. On these are hundred members. The German reseveral bridges, and other works, worthy formed congregation was formed about of particular attention. Copper-mines the year 1747, and their present brick are believed to have been formerly open- edifice was erected in 1790. Numerous ed in different parts of this county, and Lutheran congregations are now conthere are reports of silver andlead-mines centrated about Latrappe, extending I having been known. Numerous mills i among the neighboring towns in Bucks and manufactories are kept in operation county, where the German language is bythe water-power provided at the vari- still generally spoken. The old church ous dams on the river. standing in the village of Trappe, was The first settlements were made in erected in 1743, by Rev. Henry Melchior the southeastern part of Montgomery Muhlenberg, who is called the father of county by Swedes and Welsh, and in the Lutheran church in the United States. the north by Germans, all of whom long Every pew in the building, and every retained their appropriate languages. seat in each, has its number branded But of these, only the German remains into the wood with a hot iron; and a at the present day. Religious services tablet over the door bears a Latin in DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 243 scription, now almost illegible, bearing famine in the camp. A part of the army the above date and the name of its have been a week without any kind of founder, whose remains lie interred in flesh, and the rest three or four days." the churchyard. Strong exertions were at this time made Several congregations of German bap- to supersede him in command, but withtists, or Mennonists, are also found in out success. this neighborhood. whose ancestors came Mrs. Washington visited him in this to this country about the period included dreary retreat; and the house is still between the years 1706 and 1717. In remaining which served as his headthe northeastern part of the county, quarters. It is the substantial stonenear Goschenhoppen, is a small blody of' mansion of Mr. Isaac Putts, owner of the Schwvenckfelders, named after (Gaspar forge, from which the place has derived de Schwenckfeldt, a Silesian nobleman, its name. born in 1490, who taught doctrines con- The Mount Carbon railroad was comdemned by Rome, and incurred perse- menced in 1829. It is supported, for cution for them, yet differed essentially some distance along several landings, on from Luther. His followers were pro- thirty-one piers of masonry, and passes tected by Count Zinzendorf for eight through the gap of Sharp mountain, years, when they came to Pennsylvania, down the Schuylkill valley to Morriswhere they arrived some time before ville, where are coal-mi-nes on both sides 1740. of the river. At that place it leaves the VLlley Forge, a wild and secluded bank of the stream, and follows the valvalley in the mountainous region of this ley of Norwegian creek to Pottsville, a county, is associated with one of the distance of 6,208 feet firom its commost gloomy and desperate periods of mencement. A branch, 14,200 feet in the American revolution. The British length, leads to the Centreville mines, army, after landing on the Delaware, which belong to the North American gained the battle of Brandywine, Sep- coal company, and affords access to the tember 11, 1777, anti Washington re- celebrated Peach mountain and other treated, with his feeble army, to Ger- mines. The west branch is 16,400 feet mantown, and, after one day's rest, long, and reaches to Marysville, with crossed the Schuylkill, and advanced on the Diamond and Oak-hill coal-mines the Lancaster road, to endeavor to stop and others. the progress of the enemy, but was pre- Several other local railroads are now vented by the injury of his ammunition, in use; and the long one to Reading and caused by a severe rain. The enemy Philadelphia has greatly increased the then taking the road toward Swedesford, facility of transportation. The Danville induced Washington to leave that to road, an immense work, from the great Philadelphia open, and, taking advan- natural obstructions to be overcome, was tage of the opportunity, entered that proposed in 1826, and in 1.834 was comcity; to guard which, he occupied Ger- pleted as far as Girardsville, ten miles, mantown with the largest body of troops. with a tunnel seven hundred feet long, This was one of the great epochs in the and four inclined planes. But another history of the Revolution, when to most, tunnel, of twenty-five hundred feet, neeven of the friends of American inde- cessary to open a passage into the Gi. pendence, the cause was regarded as rard mines, has not been completed. hopeless. But not so with Washington. As the beds of coal near the surface He drew off the remains of his army to of the earth become exhausted, the mithis wild, inhospitable spot, and here ners dig deeper, or abandon the old struggled through a severe winter, under mines for new ones. In the former case, the most trying privations, awaiting an wide passages are cut into the earth, at opportunity, which at length arrived, for a declining angle of about forty degrees, the striking of an unexpected blow. He which serve for the entrance of empty once wrote to congress: "For some cars on one rail-track, and the exit of days there has been little less than a the loaded ones on another. Steam-en 244 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PFNNSYLVANIA. gines are employed to pump out the adelphia. This town stands on Codorus water, as well as to draw up the coal. creek, eleven miles firom the SusquehanSome of these mines are worked under nah, to which is a line of improved navthe very town of Pottsville, and extend igation. A railroad leads to Baltimore. several hundred feet. The deeper the York is a place of five thousand inhabmines are sunk, the more pure and val- itants, and is remarkable as the seat of uable is the coal usually found. government of the United States for a PORT CARBON is the village at the time in the year 1777, during the occulanding, at the head of navigation, on the pation of Philadelphia by the British. main branch of the Schuylkill, two miles Some manufacturing is carried on here; northeast from Pottsville. At the bot- and it contains ten churches, a courttom of a deep and wild valley are seen house, academy, bank, and a lyceutm, long ranges of building, with several which is in possession of a cabinet of short railroad lines concentrating from minerals. The railroad affords frequent I the valley of Mill creek, and the mines and easy communication with Baltimore, wrought along its romantic borders, and as well as Philadelphia, while stagethe villages of Patterson, Middleport, coaches depart daily for Harrisburg, and New Philadelphia, and Tuscarora, whose twice a week for Chambersburg. existence dates back only to the year The York Sulphur-Springs are situ 1828. ated twenty-one miles south of Harris MINERSVILLE., the principal mining burg, and the scenery which surrounds village on the western branch of the them is striking and pleasing. The Schuylkill, has a railroad, several mills place is one of fashionable resort. and manufactories, and two churches; HARRISBURG, one hundred and seven and numerous other villages are found miles from Philadelphia, is the capital in this region. Po)pulation, 1850, 2,984. of Pennsylvania. The statehouse occuThe position of the coal-beds in the pies a lofty and commanding situation, Schuylkill valley being beneath the sur- on Mount Airy. It is an edifice of conface of the ground, requires mining in siderable size, being one hundred and the usual way, while at Mauch Chunk eighty by eighty feet; and the senate the anthracite is dug and removed, like and representatives' chambers are spastone from a surface-quarry. A sudden, cious apartments. The library of the terrific, and fatal accident occurred at state, contained in this building, amounts one of the great mines in 1845, in con- to above six thousand volumes. sequence of the insufficient supports left The scenery around this town is reby the workmen in digging away the markably picturesque and varied. It coal, when the immense weight of the occupies a point on the Susquellannah, mountain above sank down and filled up where it breaks through the range of a considerable part of the excavations. the Kittatiny mountains, and is crossed A very remarkable phenomenon attend- by two fine bridges. The population, I ed this fall. The descent of the mass in 1850, amounted to 8,173; and among was so sudden, that the air was driven the public buildings are ten churches, violently from the halls and galleries of the courthouse, two banks, and acadethe mine, through the external openings, my, the prison, and the arsenal. as from an immense bellows, and with Stage-c(aches run from Harrisburg to such force that carts were blown along, Pottsville, Northumberland, and Balto some distance and broken. Several timore, tnrough York; while railcars lives were lost; and one man, who was depart daily for Chambersburg, and shut in by having the passages around three times every day for Philadelphia. him closed, after feeling about him in CARLISI E, in the Cumberland valley, the darkness, and working a long time eighteen miles from Harrisburg, is one among the loose rocks, succeeded in of the oldest settlements, and the seat digging out, after a confinement of about of Dickinson college, a methodist instiforty-eight hours. tution, founded in 1783. The number YORK is eighty-three miles from Phil- of' students is nearly two hundred, under DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 245 the care of seven professors. The li- stitution was founded in 1S02, and conbraries contain twelve thousand volumes, tains about a hundred and fifty students, and the chymical, philosophical, and with 4,500 volumes in its libraries. The mineralogical collections and depart- last Thursday of September is the time ments are well supplied. for holding the annual con.mencement. The United States barracks were The medical department of this college erected in 1777, chiefly by the labor of is situated in Philadelphia. the Hessian prisoners captured at Tren- The theological seminary of the asso. ton. ciate church is also established in this Thle Sulphlr-Springs, four miles fiom place. the village, are celebrated for their effi- WASHINGTON.-This town is twentycacy in cutaneous and other diseases, and five miles north of Pittsburgh, and ocare the annual resort of many visiters. cupies a lofty situation, containing above They are situated in the midst of the two thousand inhabitants, with nine Blue ridge; and the picturesque scene- churches, two academies, and a courtry, with the embellishments of' art dis- house. Stage-coaches depart daily for played in the walks and gardens, offer Pittsburgh, Wheeling, and Baltimore. many attractions..Washington College was founded in CHAMBERSBIURG.-This town, situated 1806, and now contains about one hunat the junction of the Falling-Spring dred students. it possesses a minercreek with the Conecocheague, enjoys alogical cabinet, philosophical apparathe advantages of a railroad connexion tus, with libraries embracingo from two with Harrisburg and several considera- to three thousand volumes. ble manufactories, though a small place, MEADVILLE, on French creek, is the with between three and four thousand seat of Allegany college. That instituinhabitants. Population, 1850, 4,300. tion was founded in the year 1815, and BEDFORD is two hundred and six miles contains about one hundred and fifty west from Philadelphia, and stands on students. The volumes in the libraries a branch of Juniata river. It contains amount to about eight thousand. five churches, a courthouse, and an acad- ERIE.-This town, situated on the emy, with eleven hundred inhabitants. summit of a lofty bluff, which rises fiom It derives its principal interest, in the the shore of the noble lake from which eyes of most strangers, from the springs it has derived its name, has one of the in its immediate vicinity. best harbors on that inland sea. It conThe Bedford Springs are five in num- tains a number of handsome public and ber, situated in a narrow valley a mile private buildings, with seven churches,' and a half south of the town, from which a bank, and an academy, with 6,000 inthey derive their name. They are dis- habitants. tinguished from each other, as the Sweet This place is remarkable for the raspring, Sulphur, Fletcher's, Anderson's, pidity and success with which the fleet the Limestone, and the C halybeate, pos- of Commodore Perry was built, in the sessing a variety of properties. Several war of 1812, to meet the British forces houses are kept for the accommodation on the lake. The ships were ready for of visiters, with baths of different kinds sea in seventy days after the felling of supplied from the springs. A little lake the timber; and in a short time they has been formed, on which pleasure- returned tothis port, bringing withthem boats are kept for the amusement of vis- the enemy's captured squadron. The iters; and the place is annually resorted flag-ship Lawrence still shows its reto by considerable numbers. As Phil- mains in the harbor, the state of the adelphia stage-coaches arrive and depart country in this region happily creating daily, the access is convenient. no demand for warlike operations. The CANNONSBpRGH is a town of about one old French fort Presque-Isle was situathousand inhabitants, situated eighteen ted at this place, and some traces of it miles southwest from Pittsburgh, and is are yet distinguishable. the seat of Jefferson college. That in- BIRMINGHAM, in Chester county, is a -i1 246 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. small town situated on Brandywine wallis had routed Maxwell's riflemen, creek, near the scene of one of the most who ventured to harass them on their important battles ever fought within the march. On the enemy's approach, the I limits of this state, as it caused the rout American army proceeded to encamp of the American army sent to oppose behind White Clay creek; but Washthe British forces on their way to Phila- ington, finding the ground disadvantadelphia, and opened the way for the oc- geous, retired to the Brandywine, and cupation of that city for a considerable occupied the heights fiom Chadsford time. A commanding hill, near the vil- toward the southeast, while Maxwell, lage, affords a view of the field of battle, with his riflemen, hung upon the enewhich had some unfortunate features, as my's flank. General Armstrong, with the following brief description of the the militii., guarded a passage below the action will show. Had the Brandywine camp, and the main body took a posiriver been fordable in but a few places, tion to prevent the easiest passage of the American troops would not have had the river, it being fordable, however, in to guard the whole line. The ability of all parts. the enemy to assail it at any point at General Howe gave the right of his any moment, kept our commander-in- army to General Knyphausen, and the chief in a continual state of anxiety, and left to Cornwallis; the former to engage the enemy availed himself too success- the attention of the Americans by a feint fully of the advantages in his possession. to cross the stream, while the latter The Battle of the Brandywine. —This should push to a place above, where the important action was fought on the shore crossing might be more easily effected. of the stream whose name it bears, on Maxwell for a while maintained a spirthe 11th of September, 1777, between ited skirmish with the British marksthe British forces under General Howe, men, but finally fell back before Knipand the American army commanded by hausen, who made so many demonstraGeneral WVashington. The enemy had i tions of a resoluftion to force the passage arrived from New York, in their fleet, in at Chadsford, that his feint proved sucthe Chesapeake, late in the month of cessful, the Americans becoming so August, and Washington was thus re- much engrossed by him as to allow lieved from uncertainty respecting their Cornwallis to accomplish his object with designs. Presuming that they were but little difficulty. Having crossed the now resolved to seize upon Philadelphia, forks of the Brandywine, at Trimble's he immediately called upon all the corps and Jeffrey's fords, he marched down of the regular army which could be the bank toward Dilworth, to fall upon spared, to join him by forced marches, the American right flank. and sent requisitions to the governors The first intelligence which Washingof the neighboring states for their mili- ton received of thnis was an exaggerated tia. The British landed on the 25th, account, that a large part of the British near the head of Elk river, 18,000'i was approachinog, unll(el the command strong, and well provided in all respects, of Howe; and he instantly gave orders except horses, in which they were quite to Sullivan to cross the river above, and deficient, having lost many the prece- fall upon Knyphlausen's left, intending ding season, from the scarcity of forage. X'himself to pass below and attack his It is presumed that they might have right. At that moment, however, anacted with greater efficiency on the plains other messenger brought him the false of Pennsylvania, if they had been strong- report that the enemy had not yet crossed er in cavalry. the stream. His former command was Gen. Knyphausen, having remained then countermanded; and the next inat the landing with the rear-guard, to telligence assured him of the truth. No cover the debarkation, followed the van time was to be lost; for the enemy were in a short time, and the whole army took now fast approaching his right wing, on post along Christina creek, from New- the advance of which was General Steark to Atkins, after the column of Corn- veens, with Stirling and Sullivan next in DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 247 order, with their respective brigades. On the day following the battle, a Sullivan took command of the whole body of the enemy's light troops marched wing, as the senior officer, while Wash-.to Wilmington, in Delaware, and made ington, with Greene, took post between prisoner of the governor, and seized a it and the left wing at Chadsford, ready quantity of money and other property, to reinforce either which might require public and private, with some papers of his aid. importance. There being no longer ally The ground occupied by Sullivan was force sufficient to resist him, Lord Cornwell chosen, and very advantageous; but wallis entered Philadelphia, on the 26th the enemy did not allow him to collect of September, with a body of British all his troops, and he was forced to give and Hessian grenadiers, leaving his army way, after a manly resistance, and fled encamped at Germantown: the number to the woods in their rear,. and along the of royalists in that city at the time being road by which Greene was now ap- so great as to leave him little room for proaching to their aid. To prevent the apprehension. General Washington, in confusion of the fugitives firom being the meantime, retired, with the few communicated to his own troops, Greene troops he could command, to Skippack opened his lines to the right and left, creek, on the banks of the Schuylkill; a and, after giving them passage, closed wild region, difficult of access, and a again, and, facilg about, retired in good favorable retreat in his circumstances, order, keeping the enemy in check by which rendered the protection of nature a steady fire of artillery. The Penn- necessary to his safety. sylvania and Virginia militia, who com- INTERESTING FACTS IN TIE HISTORY pose(l his brigade, made a vigorous stand OF PENNSYLVANIA.-It was designed by in a defile on the road, where they for Penn that Philadelphia should never be some time brought the enemy to a halt. closely built. He named it thus, as he General Knyphausen now advanced remarked, "before it was born," in orto the ford in earnest; and the Ameri- der to express the principles of benevcans left in defence of the intrenchments olence on which he intended to have its and battery on the opposite side, seeing concerns conducted, and intended that some of the British troops approaching it should always be " a greene towne," on their right, in pursuit of their re- with ample room for the convenience treating countrymen, abandoned the and comfort of all the inhabitants. It ground and retired. General Greene still presents a general aspect quite difwas the last officer on the ground, and ferent fiom that of the most crowded 1 left it only when darkness had come on. cities of the Old World, with respect to The Americans, routed, reached Ches- the streets, which, instead of being narter that night, and Philadelphia the next row, crooked, and dirty, are straight, day; their entire loss being stated at wide, and clean. His plan, however, about three hundred killed, six hundred has been in some points encroached upwounded, and four hundred prisoners. on. He insisted that the bank of the Ten field-pieces and a howitzer also fell Delaware should be kept open and uninto the hands of the enemy. The ene-' occupied by buildings and enclosures, ny lost, in all, about five hundred men. and resisted every proposal to abridge In this action, the foreign volunteers, the fireedom which the public enjoyed, so recently enlisted under the American in approaching the water. An unhappy standard, performed good service. The' change has since taken place; and there Marquis Lafayette, while rallying his are now few cities in our country where, troops, received the wound in his leg the wharves are more crowded and inwhich rendered him a cripple for the convenient. rest of his life; but it did not prevent The plan of his new city appears, from him from continuing his labors through Penn's original instructions to his three the'ght. Captain De Fleury had a commissioners, to have been very large. horse killed under him, and the Baron These men, William Crispin, John BeSt. Ovary was made captive. I zar, and Nathaniel Allen. were sent out c -- -~ — ~-~~~~~~~~ 248 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. in the autumn of 1681, to select a site tioned, he began to lay out his new city, and lay out the great city. The Penn- and to prepare for its construction. It sylvania Historical society have pub- is remarkable that numbers of the peolished at length the written instructions pie who had preceded him, for some with which they were furnished. time after their arrival, had taken up He directed that "the creeks should their dwelling in caves under the steep be sounded on every side of Delaware bank. The first house erected was that river, especially upland, in order to set- of George Guest, which was not completie a great towne." His object was to ted when Penn arrived. It stood near find a place " where most ships may ride, Powell's dock, in Budd's row, and long af deepest draught of water, if possible, served as a tavern, under the name of to load and unload at ye bank or key the Blue Anchor. side, without boating and lighteringlit." The first person born in Philadelphia He directed that the earth should be was said to be John Key, and his birthdug, to ascertain that the soil was dry place was one of the caves just menand healthy, and that ten thousand acres tioned, near Sassafiras street, which was should be laid out for the liberties of long known as the "Pennypot." He the town. lived to the age of eighty-four, and died Twelve square miles would have been at Kennet, on the 5th of July, 1765. required, by the plan, for all the pur- William Penn, it is said, gave him a lot chasers; and this, with other requisi- of ground. He used to walk into the tions, induced the commissioners to de- city until within six years of his death, fer the selection of any site, and to await and was generally known, in the latter the arrival of Penn. They examined part of his life, by the name of "the and described the site of Chester, a place first-born." on the elevated bank at the mouth of Between twenty and thirty vessels Poquessin creek and Pennsbury manor, arrived in the course of the first year, as well as the place where Philadelphia bringing out great numbers of quakers, stands, which proved most agreeable to who had left their homes to avoid the the governor. It is said, by tradition, persecutions to which they wvere exthat he took an open boat, at Chester, posed. They were so numerous, that and proceeded to Wicacoa, with a few not only Philadelphia became at once a friends, toward the end of November, considerable town, but the country was 1682, and found the site of the present well supplied with inhabitants along the city occupied by three Swedes, brothers, river's borders for a distance of fifty named Swenson, a name since altered miles, from Chester up to the falls at to Swanson. The river's bank was then Trenton. high, and covered with a thick growth The house of Thomas Fairbank, at of tall pines, a place which the Indians Shackamaxon, near Kensington, was occalled Coaquannock. It seems that the cupied, in 1681, as a quaker meetingspot had something, even in its wild house; and the following year a boarded state, which recommended it for a set- building was erected for this purpose, tlement: as Proud says that some of the in the city. Another was erected near passengers in the first ship which ever the centre of Philadelphia, in 1684; one sailed so far up the Delaware (namely, in Front street, in 1685; the great meetthe Shield, Captain Towes, from Hull, inghouse in High street, in 1695; one December, 1678), exclaimed, "It is a on the hill, in Pine street, in 1753; fine place for a town." He mentions, and the present one in High street, in also, that the shore was bold and high, 1755. so that, in turning, some of the tackling Between 1682 and 1714, no less than struck the trees. three hundred and fourteen marriages This was a vessel bringing out colo- were performed among the quakers; and nists for New Jersey. Penn arrived four in the years 1681, 1682, and 1683, about years later; and, having purchased the fifty vessels arrived with passengers. ground of the three Swedes above-men- Among these were a number of German -- -- -~ — — d~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 249 converts to the quaker principles, the which the opinion was expressed, that disciples of William Ames, an English- it was one of friendship, and had no reman. Havingr "borne public testimo- lation to the purchase of land. ny" in their native place, Krisheim, near Letitia House.-This celebrated build. Worms, in the Palatinate, they seized ing, still standing in a street of Philathe opportunity offered by Penn, to take delphia of the smaller size, has excited up their habitation in America, in a state much attention within a few years, since founded by one of their own faith, and the spirit of antiquarian research has settled at Germantown, which derived arisen, as it is believed to have been its name from them. Among them were erected for William Penn's own use, by persons of all ages, and some who had William Markham, in the year 1682, been brought up in ease and plenty. To the year before his arrival. It is of them the common trials of the colonists brick, of small size, two stories high, must have been severe, as some of the with a single window on each side of new-comers were obliged to occupy bhol- the door, a steep roof, a stack of chimlow trees, as well as caverns, while prep- neys, and a single dormer-window in arations were making for the erection front. A rustic roof projects over the I of houses or huts; and most of these door, which is entered by rising a single afforded poor accommodations, and even step from the street; and an old-fashbut little protection from the cold and ioned, wooden cellar-door, nearly flat, storms of the winter. opens under each of the windows. The The celebrated treaty made by Penn little street in which it stands is named with the Indians has always been a com- Letitia court, and opens on Market street, pact of peculiar interest, on account of between Front and Second streets. the principles of justice and humanity A letter of Penn is preserved, in which on which it was founded, the sacredness he allows his " cousin Markhanm to live with which it was observed, and the ex- in his house in Philadelphia, and that tensive, lasting, and beneficial effects Thomas Lloyd, the deputy-governor, which it produced. Yet it is remarka- should have the use of his periwigs, and ble that no written memorial of it re- any wines and beer he may have there mains, beyond a few allusions to it made left for the use of strangers." It apin contemporaneous documents, and that pears that Penn, having been accuseverything else relating to it depends tomed to the luxurious style of King upon the authority of tradition. The Charles II., and to the upper classes of spot is pointed out, on the bank of the society during his travels on the contiDelaware, where the council assembled nent, never renounced all traces of his in 1682, under an elm-tree, at Kensing- early habits, even after he had placed ton, where a plain obelisk now stands, himself at the head of the friends in erected by the Penn society, in 1827, their great colony in America. He paid bearing the following brief but appro- much regard to dress and forms in pubpriate inscriptions:- lic; and was, according to descriptions On the north side: "Treaty-ground and pictures remaining of him, before of VWilliam Penn and the Indian natives, he came to America, "quite a finished 1682." gentleman, eminently handsome, the On the south: " William Penn: born appearance of his countenance remark1644; died 1718." ably pleasing and swe6t, his eye dark On the west: "Placed by the Penn and lively, and his hair flowing gracesociety, A. D. 1827: To mark the site fully over his shoulders, according to the of the great elm-tree." fashion set by the worthless but fascinOn the east: "Pennsylvania founded, ating Charles II." His portrait, pre1681, by deeds of peace." sented to the Historical society by his A long memoir was presented to the grandson, bears witness to the accuracy Pennsylvania Historical society, in 1836, of this description; and it would seem, by Messrs. Dupongeau and Fisher, on from writings extant, that he mainthe subject of Penn's first treaty, in tained, in his colony, habits in several 250 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. respects corresponding with his earlier Sir iWilliam Penn, father of the foundlife. Ier of Pennsylvania, was born at Bristol, In his cash-book are proofs that he and was a distinguished admiral in the had four periwigs, silk hose, leathern British navy, and commanded the fleet gambadoes, or overalls, and many fine at the capture of Jamaica, in 1655. beaver hats, furbished up at the hatter's, The protector confined him awhile in while a greater number still he present- the Tower, for absenting hirrseif withed to his friends, one of which he corn- out leave from the American station. mends for having "a true mayoral brim." He was member of parliament; and, It is handed dowr by tradition, that he under Charles II., had a high command wore, also, silver shoebuckles. under the Duke of York, and participaHe had an elegant house at Penns- ted in the capture of the Dutch in 1664. burg, which has been compared to a J He was knighted by that king, and died kind of palace, abounding in rich furni- at his house in 5Wanstead, Essex, in ture, and supplied with liquors, though 1670, at the age of forty-nine. he was not fond of spirits, and had an His son William was born in London, aversion to tobacco, so often their con- in 1644; and having warmly adopted comitant. There is but a single charge the quaker principles, while in college of tenpence worth of this in the cash- at Oxford, from the preaching of Loe, book. He was very hospitable, and he was expelled for nonconformity; and made provision for the entertainment of his father, in 1662, after having " whipstrangers during his absence. ped and beaten" him, turned him out of IHis benevolent regard for the Indians doors for the same offence. The admicarried him so far that he often visited ral, however, afterward relented so far them, was present at their feasts and as to send him to France, anid then to merry-makings, and sat with them upon enter him at Lincoln's Inn as a law-stuthe ground, to partake of their hommony dent. While settling an estate in Ireand roasted acorns; by which exhibi- land, he again met Loe, and resumed tions of kindness he greatly attached the strict quaker practices; so that, on them to him. A remark of his is re- his return home, he refused to take off corded, which reflects the highest credit his hat in the presence of his father, and on his character. "The saying is," said even before the king; for which he was he, "that he who gives to the poor lends again turned upon the world. He beto the Lord: but it may be said, not im- gan to preach and write in 1668. He properly, the Lord lends to us to give was imprisoned in the Tower and Newto the poor. They are, at least, part- gate, but soon was left, by his father's ners by Providence with you, and have will, in possession of an estate worthI a right you must not defraud them of." X1,500 a-year. The following passage, in his parting In 1667, he married, and devoted himinstructions to his wife, deserves to be self to the defence and promotion of his written in gold; and its observance ill favorite doctrines. Ten years after, he this country would have given a better visited the continent with Fox and Bat- l aspect to American society thar. we wit- clay, and soon after received firor. tlnro ness at the present day:- king a grant of the country whose inter"Let my children be husbandmen and esting history and ccndition we have housewives: it is industrious, healthy, been contemplating. honest, and of good report. This leads The following minute account of to consider the works of God, and di- the burial-place of William Penn, &c., verts the mind from being taken up with is taken fiom the English " Historical the vain arts and inventions of a luxuri- Register:"ous world. Of cities and towns of con- The Grave of the Founder of Pennsylcourse beware. The world is apt to vania.-The traveller, in passing from stick close to those who have got wealth Beaconsfield to the neighboring village there. A country life and estate I love of Chalfont St. Giles, in Bucks, passes a best for my chiidren." small enclosure on the right-hand side l. ______ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OE' PENNSY LVANIA. 251 of the road, known as the friends' or Nos. 10, 11, 12, 13, 14. William Penn's Jourdan's burial-ground. But though younger children. no monumental stone attracts attention, Seven graves from the hedge, in a line and the sunken graves, hidden in the tall above William Penn, lies Thomas Elgrass, escape the passing glance of a wood, who used to read to Milton, and stranger, it well deserves to be recorded lived on Hanger hill. On his left hand, as the resting-place of William Penn, nearer the hedges, lies his wife. the founder of Pennsylvania. Extract from the Register, Sept. 12, A fragment, supposed to have been called by the friends "eighth month:" — written by one of the vicars of Penn, a "Our friend William Penn, of Valthamvillage not far from Chalfont, deriving stow, in the county of Essex, and Giuliits name from the ancestors of William elma Maria Springett, of Tilerend green, Penn, who possessed the manor at a in the parish of Penn, in the county of very remote period, is still preserved in Bucks, proposed their intentions of marthe register of that place, and presents riage at the monthly-meeting at Hanger a curious record of the occupiers of the hill." principal graves. Prince Butterfield, the person already mentioned as having seen Penn's leaden U coffin at the burial of his second wife, 1 2 3 4 1 was the mat) who had the cale of the Do i s burial-ground, and who died between 5 6 7 8 9 thirty and forty years ago. Many "fiiends" have been interred within the 10 11 12 13 14 ] enclosure, besides those here mentioned; vi but about fifteen years since it was found too full to admit any others, and the No. 1. Letitia, daughter of Wm. Penn. ground has remained undisturbed. In 2. Springett, son of William Penn. J. Whyth's supplement to the " History 3. Margarette Frame and her son of the Life of Thomas Elwood," pubThomas, in the same grave, lished in 1714, is an account of his great daughter of William Penn. services to the society of friends. It is 4. John Penn, son of William, gov- added, that " he departed this life on the ernor of Pennsylvania. 1st of the third month, 1713, and was 5. The great William Penn, with his honorably buried in the fiiends' buryingsecond wife upon his leaden place at New Jourdan." This Elwood coffin. Prince Butterfield re- was the great fiiend of the poet Milton, members his second wife being and suggested to him the idea of writing buried, and seeing the leaden " Paradise Regained." coffin of William, whose head In concludinlg this blief description lies contrary to the rest, with! of Pennsylvania, Nwe Inay appropriately his feet to the north. introduce the following summary of 6. Giulielma, daughter of Sir Wil- some of the improvements and invenliam Springett, first wife of tions which have distinguished this state William Penn. and people. It is abridged from the 7. Isaac Penninaton's wife, the wid- North American newspaper:ow of Sir William Springett, of The quadrant was here invented by Darling, in Sussex. Godfiey; here Franklin taught men 8. Isaac Bennington, an able lawyer, how to control the lightnings of heaven; who married the widow of Sir on the Delaware, at Philadelphia, John William Springett, mother to Fitch first proved the power of his rude William Penn's first wife. steamboat; Fulton, a native of Penn9. > Lseph Rule, a man that used to sylvania, immortalized his name by mago about London preaching, in turing that wonderful invention; the a white coat and a long white first locomotive was set in motion near I beard. the corner of Ninth and Market streets. 252 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. by its inventor, Oliver Evans, who, with great work of the kind attempted in this the foresight so often noticed as a char- country. The first Fairmount bridge, acteristic of great discoverers, declared with its span of 3481 feet, outrivalling that the time would come when one the famous bridge of Shauffhausen, and would " breakfast in New York, dine at the wire-bridge, erected in 1S17, at the Philadelphia, and sup at Baltimore;" falls of the Schuylkill, which served to here was the first bank established in suggest the idea to European builders, the country, and the first insurance of- were an honor to Philadelphia. The fice; here was organized the first sab- bridges in the interior, by their substanbath-school, an honor, surely, to be ap- tial, and even bold character, have done preciated throughout the Union; Phil- honor to the state. adelphia first showed us what might be For the introduction of canals, as well done in supplying cities with water, by as turnpikes, the country is indebted to her astonishing Fairmount water-works; Pennsylvania. Even William Penn ap- i in her eastern penitentiary, she furnished pears to have meditated on the project a model for institutions of that class, of connecting the Susquehannah with which has been extensively approved the Schuylkill; and, in 1762, David Rit- I and imitated, both in this country and tenhouse and Dr. WTilliam Smith sur'in Europe. The first public hospital in veyed a canal-route for the purpose. At the United States was the Pennsylvania that early day, these gentlemen had in hospital; the first institution for the view the connecting of the lakes and the blind was that established in this city. Ohio river with the Delaware, by a route Here, too, before the Revolution, the of nearly six hundred miles. The surgreat discovery which has given us the vey, under the authority of the legislamagnetic telegraph, led Franklin to give ture of Pennsylvania, was accomplished signals by electricity across the Schuyl- in 1769. In 1791, a company was inkill. corporated for connecting the SusqueThe merchants of Philadelphia, at an hannah and Schuylkill; and in 1792, early period, built a frigate and present- another was incorporated for connecting ed it to the United States government, the Schuylkill with the Delaware, by the the only instance of the kind on record; way of Norristown. At the head of the and the state of Pennsylvania erected a latter was Robert Morris, the celebrated house in Philadelphia, and offered it as financier. These two companies undera present to Washington. Here, also, took the work, and proceeded far with a stand was taken against the exactions it, when, having expended $440,000, they of Great Britain, in advance of Boston were embarrassed, and suspended opelherself; and the first opposition to the ations. These beginnings, however, relanding of tea was made at a public suited at length in the completion of the meeting held in Philadelphia, some Union canal. The first tunnels excavaweeks before the celebrated tea-party ted in the Union were in Pennsylvania. executed its work at Boston; and from The first survey for the Chesapeake and Philadelphia came forth the Declaration Delaware canal was made in 1769, by of Independence. order of the American Philosophical soBut the part which Pennsylvania has ciety, and as early as 1S04, one hundred taken in the great works of internal im- thousand dollars were expended in the provements needs to be better under- execution of the work. stood. The turnpike from Philadelphia When the period of railroads arrived, to Lancaster was the first undertaken in Pennsylvania was again the pioneer. the Union, and was completed in 1794, The railroad at Mauch Chunk was the at a cost of $465,06C. Subsequently, first in the Union, excepting only a short the whole surface of the state was tray- i tram-road in Massachusetts. From that ersed by these roads. period to the present, Pennsylvania has The Schuylkill " permanent bridge," been second to no state in the Union, in erected in 1798, at an expense of three expenditures for constructing these wonhundred thousand dollars, was the first derful annihilators of time and space. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF DELAWARE. 253 -OE Chesapeake and Delaware Canal. DELAWARE. THIS state is bounded on the north by Chester and Delaware counties in Pennsylvania, on the northeast by Delawaie bay, on the southeast by the Atlantic ocean, on the south by Worcester and ~~- - t. 1~ Somerset counties in Maryland, and on the west by part of the same state, viz.: Dorchester, Car- oline, Queen Ann, Kent, and Cecil counties. It lies along the Atlantic coast twenty miles, firom Cape \ Ei.Henlopen toFenwick island. The i \'p entire outline is two hundred and fifty-nine miles; length, one hundred miles; mean breadth, twentyone miles; area, two thousand one hundred square miles. It lies between 38~ 27' and 390 50' north latitude, and 10 17' and 200 0' east longitude from the city of Washington. The state occupies a long and narrow plane, with a gentle eastern slope to the Atlantic and the bay, with a higher and more uneven region in the north. The upper portion has a waving rather than a. hilly surface, and the southern is near.ly a dead level. The eastern slope is drained by several small rivers, viz.: Indian, Broadkill, Cedar, Mispohan, Motherkill, Jones, Duck, Apoquinimink, Brandywine, &c. Delaware contains only three counties-Newcastle in the north, Sussex in the south, and Kent between them. The population in 1790 was 59,094; in 1800, 64,273; in 1810, 72,674; in 1820, 72,749; in 1830, 76,748; in 1840, 78,085; in 1850.90,407. Settlements were commenced at an early date within the territory of this state. Under the patronage of Gustavus Adolphus, king of Sweden, a few 254 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF DELAWARE. feeble colonies were founded here in general sessions of the peace, and such 1627, before any other Europeans had courts as the general assembly may firom attempted to occupy the soil. The coun- time to time establish. There are five try received the name of New Sweden, judges to compose these several courts, anLt the settlers were Swedes and Fin- whom the governor appoints. They landers. They settled along the shores hold office during good behavior. The of Delaware bay, but were reduced in superior court consists of the chief-jus1655 by the Dutch, and again in 1664 tice and the two associate-justices, who by the English. Charles II. included do not reside in the county where the the territory in the grant which he made court is held; and the court of sessions to the duke of York, by whom it was con- is composed in the same manner. The veyed to William Penn, in 1682. For court of oyer and terminer consists of several particulars in respect to this part all the judges except the chancellor; of the history of Delaware, the reader and the orphans' court, of the chancellor is referred to the description of Penn- and the resident judge of the county. sylvania. Delaware College, situated at Newark, Delaware had a colonial assembly in Newcastle county, is the only higher in1701, which met at Newcastle, although stitution of learning in the state. Comthe territory nominally belonged to mencement is held on the 4th WVednesPenisylvania until 1775. The people day in September. took an early and active part in the rev- There are twenty academies and about olution; and many of their militia fell one hundred and fifty common schools, in the unfortunate battle of Long Island, with a school-fund of $170,000. in 1776, when the British army obtained The Chesapeake and Delaware Canal possession of New York. She adopted was constructed at great expense, and in a constitution as a state in that year; spite of many discouragements, over one and the constitution of the United States of the most unfavorable tracts of ground was adopted by a convention on the 12th ever crossed by a work of that kind. It of June, 1792. Although the smallest was intended to open a channel of sloopstate in the Union, it has been honorably navigation between Delaware city, on distinguished by men of ability and high Delaware river, and the Chesapeake; character in the national government. and the work was successfully accomThe present constitution was adopted plished in a few years. It is thirteen in 1831. miles in length, and lies chiefly in DelaThe governor is elected for four years, ware, but partly in Maryland. It is but can notbe reelected. The senate con- sixty-six feet wide on the surface of the sists of three members fiom each county, water, and ten feet deep. chosen for four years. The house of Printing was first introduced into this representatives consists of seven mem- state in 1761, by James Adams, who then b'ers fiom each county, elected for two commenced the publication of a newsyears. The sessions of the legislature paper, called " the Wilmington Courare biennial, commencing on the first ant," which ceased in six months. No Tuestay in January. other newspaper was published in the Every male citizen who is twenty-one colony before the revolutionary war. years of age, and has been a resident in The Delaware Breakwater.-About the state one year, and in the county twenty years ago, the construction.of bne month, next preceding the day of a breakwater was commenced, by the election, and has paid a tax, is a voter. United States government at the mouth If he is between twenty-one and twen- of Delaware bay, at Cape Henlopen, ty-two years of age, the payment of the designed to afford protection to vessels tax is not necessary. passing that exposed part of the coast The courts of Delaware are a court in stormy weather. The mouth of the of error and appeals, a superior court, a bay is twelve or thirteen miles wide, court of chancery, an orphans' court, a and exposed to the full force of the court of oyer and terminer, a court of waves of the ocean, which, in an east11t DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF DELAWARE. 255 erly storm, are extremely violent, being over a precipice, of such height that it unchecked by the neighboring land, affords many mill sites of great value, which is too low to offer any resistance which have long been employed to great to the wind, or any protection from the advantage. Numerous manufactories of i surges, as they sweep in from the open large size crowd the banks of the stream, sea. The ice which floats down the most of which are flourmills; the grind. river is sometimes not less dangerous to ing of wheat is also carried on to a great vessels. The breakwater is formed ac- extent, and with such skill that they have cording to the principles of science, and long been among the best in the Union, is an immense work, of stone brought and have done much to render the flour from a great distance, and composing a manufactured there highly celebrated. solid wall with sides standing at an an- Sawmills, papermills, cotton and woolgle, best calculated to withstand and de- len factories, &c., stand also upon the stroy the force of the waves on the one same stream. hand, and the fields of ice on the other. Wilmington is governed by two burAs the number of vessels employed in gesses and six assistants. It stands upon the navigation of the bay is very great a long and gentle elevation, upon the and annually increasintg, and the coast- ridge of which lies the principal stieet, ers and foreign ships occasionally ex- which is wide and straight. posed to risk of loss on this part of the The principal public buildings are the coast, in easterly storms, are also very cityhall, the almshouse, the arsenal, two numerous, the value of such a work may markethouses, three banks, the public libe appreciated, when it is borne in mind brary, sixteen churches, nine academies, that there is no other place of refuge and the friends' female boarding-school. within a great distance. The population is at present fourteen Even in moderate weather the break- thousand. water often affords to many vessels the The Philadelphia and Baltimore railconveniences of a good harbor, when road lies through this town, and affords the state of the wind or of the ice for- communication with both those cities bids the passage from the bay to the twice a day. ocean, or fiom the ocean up the bay. Thie Brandywine Springs.-This place Cape Henlopcn, which forms the south- is much resorted to by visiters, for health ern point of Delaware bay, is in latitude and pleasure, in the summer months. It 380 45' and longitude 103 53' east from is five miles from Wilmington. Washington. DOVER.-This town, the capital of the WILMINGTON.-This town is situated state, and county-town of Kent county, one mile above the junction of Brandy- is situated on the right bank of Jones's wine and Christiana creeks, twenty-eight creek, ten miles from its mouth in Delamiles southwest from Philadelphia, for- ware bay. The streets are straight, ty-seven north from Dover, and one broad, and laid out regularly, and a large hundred and eight northeast from Wash- public square is in the middle of the town, ington city. It is built on the dividing where the statehouse and several other line between the primitive region and public buildings are placed to great adthe alluvion, which lie in juxtaposition vantage. There are three churches, one through most of the middle and south- bank, and an academy. A monument em Atlantic states. Wilmington, in has been erected to the memory of Col. this respect, resembles Philadelphia, John Haslett, who fell at the kattle of Baltimore, Georgetown, Richmond, and Princeton, in the revolutionary war. several smaller towns; but owing to the There is a communication with Wilgreater depression of the western rocky mington daily by stagecoaches, and with range in Delaware, Wilmington has less Snowhill (Maryland) three times a week. variety of scenery in its neighborhood It is in latitude 390 09' and longitude than most of them. 10 28' east of Washington. Brpndvwine river, however, at a short NEWARK stands on Christiana creek, distance from the town, is precipitated and is twelve miles southwest-by-west 256 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF DELAWARE. from Wilmington, fifty-two north-north- about four hundred inhabitants, a courtwvest from Dover, and one hundred and house, an academy, a bank, &c. There thirteen north-northeast from Washing- is a communication three times a week ton. It contains three churches, the with Wilmington by stagecoaches. college, an academy, and about eight Delaware, in several respects, bears hundred inhabitants. a resemblance to the other two of the Delaware College is situated in this smallest states, Rhode Island and New town. It was founded in the year 1833, Jersey: lying on the main route of and received an endowment of'$100,000 travel and transportation near the Atfrom the state. It has a president, four lantic border, and deriving only a secprofessors, one tutor, and about fifty ondary advantage from the vast quanstudents. The first building of the col- tities of merchandise which annually lege was erected in 1833, for eighty pass through it on the way from larger students, since which time it has been states adjoining: yet, availing herself of doubled in size. The centre is three the facilities which nature has afforded stories high, with a basement, and the her in her narrow territory, she prowings three stories; whole front, one vides employment fir the streams as hundred and eighty feet. they pour over her rocks, and use for NEWCASTLE.-This town, the former her navigable waters. The chief of the capital of the state, is situated on the latter is Delaware bay, which is the vest side of Delaware river, and is the scene of an immense amount of trade, site of the old Dutch fort Casimir, and chiefly with Philadelphia, and much of of the village of Nieu Amstel, or New- it in coal. The channels are unfortuAmsterdam, founded by the Hollanders. nately winding and difficult. The public buildings are the courthouse, The (County of Newcastle, which emtownhouse, arsenal, five churches, the braces the northern part of the state, is academy, and the public library contain- bounded north by Delaware county in ing four thousand volumes. The popu- Pennsylvania, east by Delaware river lation is aboutthreethousand two hun- which separates it from Salem county dred. (N. J.), south by Kent county in DelaLEWES, on Delaware bay, is a post- ware, southwest by Kent county in town in Sussex county, one hundred Maryland, west by Cecil county in Mamiles northeast-by-east from Washing- ryland, northwest by Chester county in ton. It is one of the early settlements, Pennsylvania. It is thirty-eight miles and its appearance is that of antiquity, long from north to south, and twelve the houses being old and shingled with miles mean breadth, with an area of cedar. four hundred and fifty-six square miles. The Ocean House, in this town, is a The county lies between latitude 29~ 18' respectable hotel, for the accommoda- and 300 50', and Ietween longitude 10 tion of pleasure-parties, often visiting 17' and 10 38' east from Washington. the place. The boundary between Delaware and DELAWARE CITY.-The town is situ- Maryland lies along the ridge of land [ ated on Delaware river, at the beginning which divides the waters of the ChesaI of the Chesapeake and Delaware canal. peake from those of the Delaware; and It is thirty-two miles north from Dover, hence, as might be presumed, Newcas-, and opposite Peapatch island, on which tle county has a gentle slope from west is situated Fort Delaware. I to east. MILFORD, sixty-eight miles from Wil- Brandywine creek, with its various mington, stands on Mispillion creek. It branches, drains the northern part of has three academies and two churches, the county, and, flowing almost to Wiland contains about ninehundred inhab- mington, falls into the Delaware. Beitants. low this stream are the Apoquinimink, GEORGETOWN is eighty-eight miles Blackbird, and Duck creeks, the last i from Wilmington, and near the head- of which forms the boundary of Kent streams of Indian river. It contains county. In this county is that part of DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF DELAWARE. 257 the Chesapeake and Delaware canal eral creeks into Delaware bay, east the which we have noticed elsewhere. It tributaries of Rehoboth bay, south those extends to Elk river, a tributary of the of Pocomoke, and southwest those of Chesapeake. The principal excavation Nanticoke. on the route is three and a half miles in Among the men distinguished in the length, and at the deepest part seventy- revolutionary periods of the history of six and a half feet. this state was Caesar Rodney; and some Some of the lower parts of Newcastle of the most interesting events connected county, near the Delaware, are low and with the important circumstances of marshy; but at some distance the sur- those times may be here appropriately face becomes irregular and even hilly introduced, in an outline of his biogill the north. The soil is generally fer- raphy. tile, and produces grain, grass, and fruit. His grandfather came to this country The tributaries of the Brandywine have from England in the days of Penn, and so irrich descent as to afford many after a short residence in Pennsylvania, good mill-seats; and various manufacto- settled in Kent county (Delaware). His ries are carried on in the interior of the youngest son, Caesar, inherited his escounty. tate, which was large, and married the Kent County is bounded on the north daughter of the Rev. Thomas Crawford, by Newcastle county, on the east by who is said to have been the first clergyDelaware river, on the south by Sussex mall in that part of the country. Caesar county, and on the west by three coun- Rodney, the subject of the present ties of Maryland, viz.: Caroline, Queen sketch-a distinguished statesman of Ann, and Sussex. It lies between lati- Delaware, and one of the signers of the tude 3S~ 50' and 390 20', and between Declaration of Independence-was born longitude 1~ 1S' and 10 50' east fiom about the year 1730, and, according to Washington. Nearly the whole surface the law of entailment then existing inll of this county has a slope east toward that state, became heir of the family Delaware bay, and here are the follow- estate. At the age of twenty-eight, he ing creeks, viz.: Mispillion, Motherkill, was appointed high sheriff of the county Jones's, and the two Duck creeks. A of Kent, after which he was a justice small part of the western border slopes of the peace and judge of the inferior westward, and is watered by the head- courts. springs of the Choptank and Nanticoke ~ There are no records of the legislature rivers. The surface is but slightly va- of Delaware in existence, of an earlier ried, and the soil of middling quality. date than 1762, and therefore it has The length of the county is thirty-two been found impossible to ascertain when miles, the mean breadth twenty, and the Mr. Rodney commenced his career as a area six hunldred and forty square miles. legislator. He was a representative for Sussex County is bounded north by his native county at that time, aind was Kent county, northeast by Delaware one of the most prominent members, bay, east by the Atlantic ocean, south being appointed as a colleague with Mr. I oy Worcester county (Md.), southwest M'Kean, to transact some business of by Somerset county (Md.), west by Dor- importance with the government. chester county (Md.), and northwest by In the time of the stamp-act, muclh Caroline county (Md.) It is thirty-five excitement was caused in Delaware; miles long from east to west, the mean and in 1763 the members of the assembreadth twenty-five, and the area eight bly held a meeting, during the recess hundred and seventy-five square miles. of the chamber, and appointed delegates It lies between latitude 38~ 27' and to attend a congress at New York, for 38~ 58', and longitude 1Q 14' and 1~ 58' consultation on measures to be taken east. Most of the county is table-land, for the general good of the colonies. with some parts marshy; and streams They unanimously appointed Messrs. flow from it toward all the points of the Rodney, M'Kean, and Kollock, and the compass. From the northeast flow sev- speaker gave them explicit instructions. 17 258 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF DELAWARE. The delegates attended, and, after their received the appointment of brigadierreturn, received a unanimous expres- general of Delaware, and not long aftersion of thanks for their services. From ward appeared in the field, at the time that period until the close of the war, of an invasion of the territory. Mr. Rodney, with his two associates Though the presence of Mr. Rodney first named, continued to be the most was deemed highly necessary at home, conspicuous and influential men in Del- in the midst of the important and tryaware, in opposing the policy of Great ing scenes of the day, he was present in Britain, and in sustaining the cause of congress at the time when the question America. Several circumstances ren- of independence was decided, and was dered their situation very difficult and one of its most ardent advocates. On dangerous. The country was exposed his return, his conduct again received to invasion, especially by the ships of the approbation of the legislature. In the enemy, and a large proportion of the autumn of that year (1776), however, the people were either favorable to the by the exertions of his opponents, his British government or undecided in their reelection to congress was defeated, as preference for the American. Among well as that of Mr. M'Kean; and he other creditable exertions made by him spent the succeeding year at home, atin the legislature of Delaware, he in- tending to his private affairs and to the troduced an amendment into a bill, de- duties of the committees of inspection signed to prohibit the slave-trade, which and of safety, to which he belonged. was lost by only two votes. Colonel Haslet, who belonged to his An attack of cancer in the cheek corn- brigade, having fallen at the battle of pelled him to seek medical aid by a Princeton, General Rodney set out to residence in Philadelphia, after he had join the Delaware troops in New Jerabandoned a previous design of going sey, but on his way was ordered by to Europe. He was made speaker of Lord Stirling to remain at Princeton to the house of assembly in 1769, and held forward troops to the army; after the that office several years; and he also performance of which duties he was perperformed the duties of chairman of the mitted to return home, by a highly comcommittee of correspondence, formed to plimentary letter from General Washpromote harmony of views and action ington. throughout the country. He was then appointed a judge of On the 1st of August, 1774, an assem- the supreme court, under the constitubly of delegates met at Newcastle, in tion of Delaware, which he declined; compliance with an invitation sent by and was soon after called into the field him, as speaker of the house of dele- to quell an insurrection in the county gates, to determine what measures to of Sussex. adopt in the existing crisis; he was The invasion by the British army a chosen chairman of the meeting; and little later again occupied him, and he then, in company with Messrs. M'Kean marched with the militia of his county, and Read, was appointed to constitute and stationed himself south of the Amerthe Delaware delegation to the Ameri- ican line, at the command of Washingcan congress at Philadelphia. He took ton, to intercept the way between the his seat in that body on the fifth of Sep- enemy and their fleet. But his raw tember, and the next day was made a troops, in a few hours, returned to their member of the grand committee, whose homes in spite of his effiorts. business it was to state what were the After this he was elected governor of rights of the colonies, and when and the state, and held the office frur years, how they had been violated. The con- although the fluctuations of paities were duct of the Delaware delegation re- frequent and strong. After that period ceived the unanimous approval of their he declined public offices, as his health legislature on their return, and Mr. Rod- had become greatly impaired; and he ney was appointed a delegate to the fell a victim of the cancer early in the succeeding congress. He soon after year 1783. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF DELAWARE. 259 The following extract.from the pre- servations of intelligent physicians; to amble to the constitution of the Medical confer honorary rewards on the efforts society of Delaware, published in 1789, of genius and industry; to superintend is interesting on account of its early the education of medical students, and date:- connect with the elements of medicine "The physicians of the Delaware an adequate knowledge of all the kindred state had long regretted their uncon- and subservient sciences; to enlarge our nected situation. Despairing to obtain sources of knowledge, by impartipg andI some of the most important objects of disseminating the discoveries and publitheir profession while thus detached cations of foreign countries; to correfrom one another, and convinced that spond with learned societies anti indiexperience has uniformly attested the viduals; to appoint stated times fbr litadvantages of literary association, they erary intercourse and communications; lately presented a memorial to the hon- to cultivate harmony and liberality among orable legislature on that subject. Af- the practitioners of medicine; and, finalter duly considering the application, the ly, to promote regularity and uniformity general assembly, for the liberal pur- in the practice of physic." i pose of fostering the interest of science, A quorum of the fellows of the sogranted a charter of incorporation to a ciety having assembled at Dover on number of the said physicians and their Tuesday, May 12, 1789, the constitution successors for ever, and the name and was adopted, and the following officers style of' the president and fellows of were appointed:the medical society of the Delaware James Tilton, M.D., president. state.' Jonas Preston, M.D., vice-president. 1 "T'he object of this society is to an- Nicholas Way, 1M. D., ) imate and unite its respective members Matthew Wilson, D. D., in the arduous work of cultivating the Dr. Joshua Clayton, censors science of medicine, and its auxiliary Dr. Nathaniel Luff, 3 branches; with an especial view to its Edward Miller, M. D., secretary. practical use, the alleviating of human Dr. James Sykes, treasurer. misery, the diminution of mortality, and The following brief but honorable the cure of diseases. To accomplish remarks on the condition and prospects this interesting purpose, they will direct of Delaware, were published in the their endeavors-to investigate the en- American Museum, in 1789, under the demical diseases of our country; to head of an "Epitome of the present trace their effects on its aboriginal in- state of the Union: habitants, and the successive changes " Delaware, ninety-two miles inlength i they have undergone, in the progress and twenty three broad by a census in of society from rudeness to refinement; 1790, contained fifty nine thousand to remark the general operations of po- inhabitants. This state, though circurnlitical, moral, and natural causes on the scribed in its limits, derives great imhuman body and its diseases; and, par- portance from its rank in the Union. ticularly, observe and record the effects Attached to the new constitution, and of different seasons, climates, and situa- having the honor to take the lead in its tions, and the changes produced in dis- adoption, there is no doubt of its giving i bases by the progress of science, com- efficacy to its righteous administration." merce, agriculture, arts, population, and This state is, as we have befoie remanners; to explore the animal, vegeta- marked, the smallest in the Union with ble, and mineral kingdoms, and every ac- respect to population; and also in ter-' I cessible department of nature, in search ritory excepting Rhode Island. of the means of enriching and simplify- According to the last census, the poping our nmateria medica; to extend the ulation of Delaware was 91,407; that I substitution of our indigenous for exotic of Rhode Island 147,543. The area of remedies; to rescue from oblivion, and Delaware is 2,120 square miles; that of collect for public view, the fugitive ob- Rhode Island, 1,360 square miles. 260 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. I' I -__ _ "Battle Monumeint," Baltimore. M MIAI Y 1 ND. THIs state is bounded west'~.I v/ and northwest by Pennsylvania, east by Delaware, southeast by the eastern shore of Virginia and the Atlantic ocean, south by Chesapeake bay, southwest by Potomac river (which separates it from Virginia), west by Virginia, and northwest by Pennsylvania. The outline is re-_ \\\\\\\w\ markably crooked, and, in the western part of the state, the Potomac, which foi Ins the southern boundary, approaches so near to the Pennsylvania line (the northern boundary) that it leaves but a narrow belt, giving the map a peculiar appearance. It lies between latitude 38~ and 390 43', and longitude 1~ 56' and 2~ 24' west fiom Washington. The whole area of the state, notwithstanding the length of its tortuous outline, is only 9,356 square miles, of which the eastern shore conlains 3,084. The chief part of the population-with the cities, commerce, an, j improvement-is west of the Chesapeake. The state, in 1850, contained 582,922 inhabitants. The eastern shore, by its situation, is cut off from intercourse ano connexion with the neighboring regions, almost as effectually as if it were an island. The surface is sandy and but little elevated above the ocean, and destitute.of hills and of most other advantages. Those portions of the territory near the ocean and the bay are generally level and low; but the surface rises in the interior, and the middle and western parts are crossed by the Allegany ridges. Of these the Blue ridge is most easterly, _ _ - DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 261 and forms a long, uniform, and gentle, numbers in the autumn, and are in great but elevated, swell across the state. demand, even in the markets of PhilaGrain and grass grow well in the west- delphia and New York. ern counties. Valuable mines of iron Pocomoke bay is a cove of the Chesand coal are wrought in several places; apeake, lying below the mouth of Nan. manufactures are carried on with suc- ticoke river. Ncrthwest from it lie cess along some of the streams; the fish- Tangier island and Tangier sound, leaderies in the bay and its tributaries are val- ing into Fishing bay. Above the mouth uable; and commerce is rendered very of Nanticoke river a peninsula projects active by the aid of railroads, steam- far into the Chesapeake, forming the boats, and vessels of all descriptions. county of Dorchester; and on the oppoThe building of swift-sailing vessels has site side this is bounded by Choptank been carried to the highest degree of bay, which, in its turns, separates it from perfection, especially in Baltimore. Talbot county. This county is much The Potomac river, which forms so cut up by several coves, inlets, &c., as large a part of the southern boundary of Treadhaven bay, Broad bay, and St. this state, is five hundred and fifty miles Michael's bay. Beyond lies another of in length, and navigable fior ships of the these remarkable arms of the Chesalargest size to Washington. The canal, peake, viz., Chester bay, which separates which extends from the falls at George- the county of Queen Ann firom that of town almost to its heal, makes it navi- Kent. Long as is this line of bay-coast, gable for boats through a great part of which we have thus described following its length, and approaches iear the west-!its sinuosities, the whole of it is comern states. The Susquehanna empties prehended in a single degree of latitude, in Maryland, and is connected with Bal- lying between thirty-eight and thirtytimore by artificial means. nine degrees. The Patapsco is a small river, but of Proceeding north from this latter great importance, being navigable four- point, Kent county is a peninsula of a teen miles, and having the city of Bal- semicircular form, lying between the timore at the head of navigation, where rivers Chester and Sassafras; and next its waters form a fine harbor, with shores Sassafras bay lie the two rivers North on one side sloping conveniently for and Elk, beyond which we find the mouth streets and wharves, and on the other of the Susquehanna, and the northern high and precipitous, and well adapted boundary of the state. for defence. All this part of this state, known as The Patuxent is one hundred and ten the eastern shore, may now be called an miles l3ng, and navigable fifty miles for island, since the Delaware and Chesavessels of two hundred and fifty tons. peake canal opens a complete, although Beside these are the Elk river, the Sas- an artificial, water-channel across the safras, Chester, Choptank, Nanticoke, neck of the peninsula. It is remarkable and Pocomoke. that a much greater difference of climate Chesapeake bay is two hundred and exists on the eastern shore than the mere seventy miles in length, and differs in difference of latitude is sufficient to acbreadth fiom seven to twenty miles, sud- count for. The lower part is so warm, denly expanding from one to the other. that even cotton may be cultivated. It contains numerous islands, and is re- The western part of the state is quite markable for the number of coves, in- cold for so southern a parallel; but this lets, and sinuosities of its borders, which is very easily accounted for, as its elevaafford access to the water in a thousand tion is sufficient to render the temperplaces. There is abundance of fish and ature in wiilter equal to that of the wild-fowl; and among the latter canvass- Atlantic coast as high up as latitude back duck is most celebrated, being forty-four degrees forty-three minutes. justly esteemed and preferred above all The elevated valleys in Allegany county, other water-birds for its rich and delicate although very fertile, have a climate too flavor. The.e birds are shot in great cold for wheat. 262 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. The want of intimate communication breadth of the whole about twenty miles, between these two parts of Maryland, and the area 4,900 square miles. The and the semi-isolated situation of the surface is generally flat or gently unducounties and many of the towns of the lated. The eastern border has a succesformer with respect to each other, are sion of low, sandy islands and beaches, unfavorable to improvements of almost with shallow sounds, opening by narrow every kind. The productions of every channels, and is destitute of considerable neighborhood are brought to the shore streams. of one of the innumerable little streams, The west side of the peninsula, on the inlets, or coves, which scollop the wind- contrary, has a number of rivers, of some ing coast of the Chesapeake, and shipped size and depth, navigable for greater or in small vessels running to different less distances, and adding to the facilities places; while the habits of the people, afforded by the coves and inlets. as well as the nature of the country, The surface of western Maryland has thus interrupted by water every few a general and gradual rise friom the miles, render roads few and short. In- shores of Chesapeake bay to the sources tercourse among the inhabitants is lim- of the Potomac, about two thousand feet; ited; there are no large towns; and in- but the intermediate regions are in sevtelligence languishes, with public spirit eral places diversified by hills and mounand enterprise, under the absence of the tainous elevations, chiefly the ridges of ordinary motives. Manufactures are not the Allegal,ies. The Blue ridge, howencouraged by any natural facilities; ever, like some of the others, presents and all these causes combined give the a uniform swell, generally so gradual eastern shore of Maryland its marked as to leave the ground unbroken and characteristics. covered with soil. In some other westOf the three geographical sections into ern parts of the state the rocks protrude, which Maryland is naturally divided, the and considerable tracts are unfit for culeastern shore forms the first; and this, as tivation. There, however, the mineral before remarked, has some peculiar fea- treasures of iron and coal abound, to tures. The Chesapeake peninsula, of such a degree as to make great amends which it forlms the western slope, from for the want of arable soil. Pocomoke bay to the mouth of the Sus- The following results of observations quehanna, is a remarkable piece of land, made at the White cottage, near Sandy lying between the Chesapeake and Del- spring, in 1829 and 1830, will show the aware bays, with a portion of its south- mean temperature: From the winter eastern border washed by the ocean. solsticeto the vernal equinox, 28.39; verThe narrow isthmus which naturally con- nal equinox to summer solstice, 58.22; nects it with the continent has been ar- summer solstice to autumnal equinox, tificially cut through by the Chesapeake 69.21; autumnal equinox to winter soland Delaware canal, and thus the whole stice, 46.96. The following year the of this singular cape, or rather peninsu- mean temperature at the corresponding la, may be said to have become an island. periods was as follows: 35.63; 58.14; Measured from that point to its southern 71.46; 49.23. extremity-CapeCharles-it is one hun- HrSTORY.-The first permanent sel dred and eighty-two miles in length; tlement was made in the territory of this and the general form is that of an oval, state at St. Mary's, in the year 1631, unacuminate leaf, with numerous and ir- der William Claibourn, on Kent islandl regular lobes and indentations on its The charter granted to Lord Baltimore margins. The south part, seventy miles (Cecilius Calvert) was dated June 20, long by eight or ten wide, belongs to 1632. He was a convert to the church Virginia; the middle section belongs of Rome, and early proclaimed religious wholly to Maryland; and the upper is toleration, although in direct opposition divided between this state and Dela- to the doctrine and practice of the ware. The widest part, near the mid- popes and governments under their indie, is seventy miles across, the mean fluence down to the present day. * _. _ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 263 Maryland was named in honor of the moco, and the building of the capital comqueen, Henrietta Maria, daughter of menced, which was named St. Mary's. Henry IV. of France; and through the Among the first buildings were a guardRoman catholic influence, which in some house and a storehouse, and corn was points was strong during her day, Lord planted, to secure provisions for the colBaltimore received an amount of power onists. Not much time had elapsed after not conferred on the governors of New the landing, before they received a visit England or most of the other colonies. from the governor of Virginia, Sir John He was created sole pyoprietor of Ma- Harvey, who, like his people, regarded ryland, restricted by nothing save alle- the new colony with jealousy. While giance to the crown. With the consent he was there, several Indian chiefs arof the freemen, he could make laws and rived from the interior to pay their raise taxes; and he was to execute the respects to Governor Calvert. They laws.of the assembly. The crown cov- were received on board a ship which enanted to impose no taxes on the col- lay at anchor in the river, and sumponies, their goods or commodities; and tuously entertained. The king of Pathis exemption was to last forever, though tuxent had his seat at table between thein other colonies it was limited to a term two English governors. of years. Maryland, as constituted tn- To make an impression upon the der Lord Baltimore, was therefore a minds of the ignorant and simple savpalatinate, the proprietary being invest- ages, when the stores were landed from ed with all the royal rights of the palace, the vessel, a great display was made. while the king held him and his domain The flags were raised on shore, the men only as a feudal sovereign. Colonists were drawn up under arms, volleys of were promised all the liberties of Eng- musketry and discharges of cannon from lishmen-born. the ships were given, when the proIll November, 1633, the first body of visions, &c., were deposited in the storeemigrants sailed with Leonard Calvert, house. The king of Werowances took the first governor of the province. They this opportunity to enjoin upon the kings consisted of about two hundred English of Patuxent and Yocomoco, who were gentlemen and many of their adherents. present, to be faithful in their observThey went by the way of the West In- ance of the treaty they had made with dies, and spent some time in Barbadoes the governor of Maryland., He spent and St. Christopher's, and did not reach several days at the place, and is reported the Chesapeake till the spring following, to have said to the governor, in a speech when, on the 27th of March, they landed addressed to him before his departure: on St. Mary's liver. According to the " I love the English so well, that if they custom of Rome, Calvert erected a cross should go about to kill me, I would and took formal possession of the coun- command the people not to revenge my try, " for our Savior, and for our sov- death; for 1 know they would not do ereeign lord the king of England." such a thing except it were through my He made proposals to the chief of the own fault." Indians, whom he found in the vicinity, According to the treaty, the English to commence a settlement on amicable occupied one half of the town, and the terms, with his consent. But he received Indians the other; and the greatest harfor answer: "I will not bid you go, nei- mony prevailed, without interruption, i ther will I bid you stay; but you may through the remainder of the year. The use your own discretion." The confi- savages performed the most kind and dence and fiiendship of the chief, how- important services to the colonists: they ever, were at length gained; and he accompanied them intothe forest, showed exerted a pacific influence on some of them the best kinds of game, joined them the neighboring tribes, by which the in the chase, and br ught home what was feeble colony was secured from molesta- taken or killed, feeling well rewarded tion. A neighboring tract of land was by the presents they received of knives, purchased, in the native town of Yoco- tools, and toys. They also afforded them 264 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYL/iND. assistance in obtaining fish, while the lasting peace, which was due, in a great squaws instructed the strangers in the measure, to laws passed by the assemculture of corn. The females and chil- bly, regulating intercourse with the Indren became so friendly and confiding, dians. Land-purchases were required that numbers of them were partly do- to receive the sanction of the governor, mesticated with the colonists. and the sale of firearms and liquor to Fifty acres of land were given to each the Indians was prohibited. settler, and, as their numbers soon con- But in 1645 a rebellion broke out in siderably increased, the colony assumed Kent island, which extended to St. Maa very flourishing appearance. But dif- ry's, and compelled Calvert to make ficulties soon arose from the conflicting his escape to Virginia. The revolt was claims of a prior settler. Clayborne, suppressed in August following, and the about a year anterior to the date of Bal- colony again enjoyed tranquillity. An timore's charter, had received from the act of oblivion was passed in 1649, which king:'nse to trade in parts of America included all except a few chief offendnot ccsrved by any patent of exclusive ers; and during the same session relitrade, anti had formed a. settlement at gious toleration was established by an Kent island, for the advantages of the act of the assembly. Some of its protrade of the Chesapeake, which he visions were these: that no person prowished to engross. That island was fessing to believe in the Lord Jesus now in the centre of Maryland, and of Christ should be molested in respect course Clayborne looked upon the new of his religion, nor in the free exercise colony with no friendly eye. An appeal thereof, or be compelled to the belief or was made to the courts: but, although exercise of any other, against his own he failed in that resort, he troubled the consent; that persons molesting any colony in various ways. other in respect of their religious tenets The first assembly met in Maryland should pay triple damages to the party in 1635, and passed criminal laws, which aggrieved, and twenty shillings to the were chiefly designed to be executed proprietary; that those who should apupon Clayborne, and he was soon in- ply opprobrious names of religious disdicted for murders, piracy, and sedition. tinction to others, should forfeit ten shilTo escape punishment he fled to Eng- lings to the persons so insulted; that land, when his estates were confiscated, any speaking reproachfully against the and, in spite of all his influence at court, Blessed Virgin, or the apostles, should the lords-comnmissioners of the colonies forfeit five pounds: but that blasphemy pronounced sentence against him. against God should be punished with The second assembly was held in 1637, death. to consider a code of laws proposed by In 1650, the constitution of the colony the governor, which they wholly reject- was drawn up in a form which it preed, substituting one of their own. The served for a century. The assembly province was divided into baronies and was now divided, those who were called. manors, with privileges all clearly de- to it by special writ forming the upper fined, and laws made to secure private house, and the burgesses the lower. property, to regulate intestate succes- At the same time, Lord Baltimore sion, &c. At the third assembly, in was recognised proprietary of the prov1639, a representative form of govern- ince, and received public honors as such. ment was established. But the assembly passed an act requiring Slaves are alluded to in an early act the assent of the freemen to any tax that of the assembly, in defining "the peo- might be imposed. New difficulties, F!e," who are said to consist of all Chris- however, soon arose. Commissioners tian inhabitants, "slaves only excepted." were appointed in England to place the An Indian war broke out in 1642, colony under the control and governwhich was attributed by the Maryland- ment of the mother-country; and, Clayers to the intrigues of Clayborne. Af- borne being one of them, a revolution.,ter a few years it was terminated by a I was soon effected in the constitution, DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 2C. after a short period of opposition, and is the oldest act of the kind in all the even civil war. The Roman catholics colonies. were defeated, the governor deposed, In 1671 a tax of two shillings was and the unprecedented and intolerable laid on every hogshead of tobacco ex. feudal power and rank of Calvert over- ported, half to be expended for che pubi thrown. The next assembly acknowl- lic defence, in a magazine and arms, and edged thle authority of Cromwell, who half to be given to the proprietary as a was then protector, and reduced the col marik of gratitude. ony to a state of dependence on Eng- Lord Baltimore died in 1676, and was land, but abridged religious liberty to succeeded by his son, Charles Calvert. such a degree th at Roman catholics, qua- England had long practised the sending kers, and episcopalians, suffered perse- of felons to Maryland, as a place of cution. banishment; and this year the assembly In the meantime, Lord Baltimore had made an ineffectual attempt to put a stop appointed Fendal his representative; to a system so injurious to the colony. and, at the end of two years, the com- Not fewer than three hundred and fifty missioners surrendered the government were annually landed in the province to him. His first acts were to procure for several years before the revolution. the dissolution of the upper house, and As early as 1681, exertions xwere made assume the whole legislative power, to to introduce manufacturing; but they lay heavy taxes, to oppress the quakers, were not attended by any important reand thus to increase the public difficul- suits. The following year, William ties. The restoration of Charles II., Penn had an interview with the propriwhich soon followed, restored Lord Bal- etary, soon after his arrival from Engtimore to his place, powers, emoluments, land, to effect an amicable settlement and honors; and Fendal, after being con- of the boundary line between the two victed of high treason, was pardoned on territories. They were unable to agree; the ground of incapacity. and, the question being afterward deDuring the dissensions which had cided in England, the disputed territory now been passed through, the colony had was equally divided, and that portion much increased. It contained twelve now forming the state of Delaware was thousand inhabitants. Five years after- taken from the lands claimed by Lord ward it had one hundred ships and six- Baltimore. teenthousand inhabitants. Every young Discontent had now become great person was trained to useful labor, and with the proprietary of Maryland,even in poverty was unknown. England. He was threatened by King In 1661 a mint was established, which, Charles with a writ of quo warranto, on in 1676, was declared perpetual, by the account of his resisting his majesty's assembly. officers in the collection of the parliaThe Dutch settlers at Henlopen, for a mentary duties. But on another charge time, threatened great troubles to Mary- he suffered more seriously; for such was land; but Calvert was successful in ne- the clamor raised in consequence of the gotiating with them, by which some pardon granted to Fendal, that all but were persuaded to leave that part of the protestants were declared to be incapacountry, and others to come under his ble in future of holding any office under government. A tribe of Indians, on the the government of Maryland. west side of the Delaware, once assumed The accession of James II. led to new I a hostile attitude; but, by the assistance difficulties in Maryland; and not long of some neighboring tribes, they were after, on a rumor that the Roman cathoinduced to lay aside all unfriendly in- lies and Indians had formed a league for tentions, and gave the colony no further the destruction of the protestants, a trouble. The statute-book of the colony, protestant league was formed, headed under the date of 1666, contains a law by John Coode, who was authorized for the n'turalization of the Dutch col- by King William to exercise the govonists who:emained in Maryland; which I ernment for three years. Calvert was 266 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. tried on sundry charges, but was only cember, 1825, to "provide for the public deprived of the government-Sir Ed- instruction of youth in primary schools ward Andross being apointed governor throughout the state." This act defines in his place. He was, however, per- the duties of the superintendent of mitted to enjoy his proprietary estate. schools, namely, to digest and prepare In 1716 the representative of the Cal- plans of instruction; to improve such vert family renounced the Roman catho- system as may be adopted, and such revlic religion, and was restored to such enues as may from time to time be asrights as he claimed. signed to this object; to prepare and The revolutionary period of the his- report estimates and expenditures; and tory of Maryland contains too many in- to superintend the collection of the revteresting events to be given in a limited enues appropriated to education. It space. Several leading men early took requires of the justices of the levy court a decided part in favor of American re- in each of the counties to appoint nine sistance, and prosecuted with zeal and commissioners of primary schools for faithfulness the great measures which the county, and a number of other suitfinally established independence. The able men, not exceeding eighteen, who, state adopted the constitution August together with the commissioners, shall 14, 1776, and the federal constitution in be inspectors of said schools. The act 1788. In 1790 the territory now form- also defines the duties of the commising the federal district, or district of sioners as to dividing the county into Columbia, was ceded by Maryland to school districts; provides for the electhe general governmnent. tion of trustees in each district, the erecGOVERNMENT. —The senate consists tion of schoolhouses, and a semi-annual oftwenty-two members, one being chosen report bf the trustees to the commisfrom each county and one fiom the city sioners, &c. of Ballimore, for a term of four years, The Roman catholic college at Georgeone half of them biennially. The house town was founded in 1784. The mediof delegates are elected once in two cal college in Baltimore was founded in yeals; and, till the apportionment under 1807, and in 1812 connected with the the census of 1860, are seventy-two in faculties of law, divinity, and general number. The executive power is vested science, and formed a body corporate, in a governor who is chosen for four under the title of the "University of years. The state is divided into three Maryland." Two other institutionsdistricts, and the governor is taken from Baltimore and St. Mary's colleges-have each of the three districts alternately. funds of their own, by which, with stuThe judicial power is vested in a court of dents' fees, they are supported. appeals, circuit courts, courts for the city Academies, which afford many advanof Baltimore, and injustices of the peace. tages of education to both sexes, exist The right of suffrage is allowed to each in most of the principal towns. free white male citizen, twenty-one years MANUFACTURES.-The manufactures old who has been one year a resident of this state are numerous, various, and in the state, and six months in the county. valuable. Woollen, cotton, iron, copEDUCATION. — The coloniallegislature per, and flour, are among the principal; i in 1696 appropriated money for educa- and most of these are seated on the tion in a college and free-schools, which banks of the streams where the descent was absorbed by the college. Wash- of the land affords water-power appliington college was founded in 1782 in cable to machinery. In Baltimore and Chestertown, Kent county, on the east- its vicinity a large amount of manufacern shore; St. John's college in 1784, turing is done. in Annapolis, on the western shore; and PRODUCTIONS.-Flour and tobacco are these two were afterward connected the staple productions of Maryland; and formed the university. but the former more valuable article An act was passed by the legislature vastly exceeds the latter in quantity. of this state during the session of De- Iron is abundant in many of the counl ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~J DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 267 ties of the western shore, and is manu- -which will comprehend all the interfactured in many places. Bituminous mediate points." coal exists in Allegany county in inex- BALTIMORE. — This is the principal haustible mines, and is one of the most city and port of Maryland, and also one valuable natural productions of the state. of the largest and finest in the United THE BALTIMORE AND OHIO R.aI[,ROAD. States. It is advantageously situated This great work was designed to extend near the head of Chesapeake bay, fourflom the city of Baltimore to Wheeling teen miles distant, on the river Patapsco, (Virginia), but was delayed in its com- which affords it a commo,dious harbor, pletion. It was chartered in 1827, and well protected by high land. It occuthe work commenced in 1828. The state pies a position commanding, by natural has subscribed three millions and Balti- and artificial channels of communicamore three millions. The first portion, tion, extensive and fertile regions in to the Point of Rocks, sixty-nine miles Maryland and adjacent states, and even in length, has been in operation several with the valley of the Mississippi. It years. It has since been finished to1 is in latitude 393 17' 23", and longitude Cumberland, a distance of one hundred 760 37' 30"' west fi'rom Greenwich, beand seventy-eight miles. It winds along ing forty miles fiom WTashington, ninestreams, hill-sides, &c., in various places, ty-sevei fi om Plliladelphlia, (,le huntidred often among wild scenery. The bridges and eighty-six firom New Yonk, and and viaducts are many, and very expen- two hundred and niinety from Pittsburg. sive. It is proposed to extend it to Pitts- The population in 1850 was 169,000. burgh, to compete with Philadelphia in The entrance to the harbor of Baltimeasures to secure the trade of the Ohio more is between Fort MI'Henry and the valley. WVre select the following state- Lazaretto, six hundred yards wide, with ment, in relation to this enterprise, from twenty-two feet in depth; the second recent publications:- harbor, which is above Fell's point, has " There seems now to be a prospect fifteen feet water, and the third, or inthat this great work of improvement ner, opposite the city, ten or twelve. will be pushed forward to completion The city is about two miles in extent within a reasonable time.'For a long fiom east to west, and one and a half period it has been at a stand-looking, from north to south, and most of the as it were, from the summit of the Alle- streets are straight and at right angles. ganies for the most advantageous point The favorite promenade is in Baltimore to intersect the Ohio river, which was street, the principal avenue, which is the limit originally prescribed for the two miles long; and the west part is the stupendous undertaking. But, should favorite residence of the wealthier citithe work take the course indicated, a zens. The principal public buildings short time only will elapse before the are the city-hall in Holliday street, the road will penetrate the interior of Ohio, courthouse at the corner of Washington connecting itself with the richest agri- and Monument streets, the state penicultural region between the river and tentiary, above one hundred churches, the lakes, and drawing firom both a large eleven banks, seven markets, eight inamount of their transit business. It surance offices, two theatres, the circus, will soon connect itself with the liver the museum, and the savings bank. again at Cincinnati, thus securing to it- The Merchants' Exchange.-The erecself all the advantages and benefits of tion of this building was commenced in a junction at a point advantageous for the year 1815. It is two hundred and its interests in seasons of low water; twenty-five feet in length and one hunwhile at the same time it will be reach- dred and forty-four in depth, the ground ing its long arm through the fertile val- plan being in the form of the letter H. leys and broad prairies of our western It is four stories, including the baseneighbors, toward the Mississippi. The ment, which is vaulted. The grand hall word will then be-not' Baltimore and is eighty-six feet long, and lighted by a Wheeling,' but'Baltimoreand St.Louis,' dome, ninety feet from the floor. 'G268 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. There are two colonnades at the east- steps to the main entrance. The in ern and western extremities, each of six scription over each of the four doors is Ionic columns, in pure style, and each as follows:consisting of a single block of Italian "To George Washington, by the State of Marymarble. land." The Cathedral (Roman catholic) is one On each side of the base is an inscription: hundred and ninety by one hundred and February d 173. Died 14th Deseventy-seven feet in extent, and in the cember, 1799. Ionic style, surmounted by a dome and Commander-in-chief of the Amer'can Army, a cross3, the top of which is one hundred 15th June, 1775. Commission resigned at and tw 3nty-seven feet high. The build- Annapolis, 23d December, 1783. 0 Trenton, 25th December, 1776. Yorktown, ing itself is in the form of a cross, built Trenton, th Decmber, 1776. Yorktown, 19th October, 1781. of granite. It has two steeples, in one President of the United States, March 4, 1789. of which is a bell weighing three thou- Retired to Mount Vernon, 4th March, 1797." sand live hundred lbs., the tone of which The exchange, customhouse, courtis exceedingly mournful, and can be house, Barnum's City hotel, and the jail, heard forty miles down the bay on a are distinctly seen from the summit, and calm evening. The organ contains six a fine view of the city and surrounding thousand pipes and thirty-six stops. country for several miles is enjoyed. The convent of the Ladies of Visita- Several women have, within the past tion is a large structur'e, with cupola few years, precipitated themselves from and cross. Attached is an extensive this giddy height. academy for young girls. Battle Monument.-This is situated on The Baltimore Museum and Gallery Monument square; it consists of a square of Fine Arts is a fine spacious building, base, on which rests a pedestal, ornaon the northwestcornerof Baltimore and mented on each corner with a beautiCalvert streets, remarkable fir its two fully-carved griffon. From the centre steeples and fine appearance. The in- arises a column, on the bands encircling terior arrangement and attractions are which are inscribed the names of those on a most costly and extensive scale. who fell in the defence of Baltimore in The appellation of the "Monumental 1814, and inl whose honor it was erected. city" has been conferred upon Balti- This column is surmounted by a superb more, on account of its containing sev- statue, representing the Genius of Baleral splendid national monuments. In timore, holding a laurel or triumphal some of the burying-grounds, also, there crown in her right hand, and an antique are a great number of superb monu- helm in her left, emblematic of comments, many of them erected by the merce, having an eagle, bombshell, &c., citv authorities. at her side. Washington Monument.-This superb This monument is of white niarble, and famous national structure, in honor over fifty feet in height, and surrounded of the Father of his country, was erected by a railing. The statuary is from the by the state. chisel of Cuppelleano, an Italian artist. It is built on an eminence of one hun- Armistead Monu'nent in the rear of dred feet, at the head of Charles street, the city fountain, was erected by the and consists of a square base of fifty corporation to the memory ~f Colonel feet by twenty-four in height, surmount- Armistead, in honor of his gallant deed by a granite column, including the fence of Fort M'Henry. statue of Washington, one hundred and The surface of the ground on which eighty feet in height. Baltimore stands is uneven, and in some The statue represents Washington in parts elevated, so that a great variety the act of resigning his commission, is six- of situations is offered, for the wharves, teen feet high, weighs sixteen tons, and stores, and streets of business, for pubcost nine thousand dollars. The corner lic monuments and the habitations of the stone of the monument was laid July 4, rich. The upper parts of the town are 1815. There are four gates and twelve on a ridge of primitive ground, through -i I ~'H ~ """";':l~,,l; f'i'" "'"'f' "'lW''f ""!l'i,'iil'- ---- ~-`Lc i'''1!1'"' ~il I.. Ii I i l i Il itt I,l i II IIii I II!I I:: tII1ilitllll 1! I! ti Ii I!i! ~! I ti!' ii/ [1 jj! I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 270 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. which a small stream, crossing the city, square miles. It may be divided into has cut a deep channel through the rocks. two sections-the valley of Gunpowder That part of the town in the vicinity of creek, which is hilly, and that of the the bridge which crosses the stream, has Patapsco. The great primitive ledge, sometimes suffered from sudden inun- which extends all along the Atlantic bordations in violent storms. Several of der from the southern to the eastern the upper streets, lying along the high states, crosses this county, and the seaground, and being broad, straight, and sand alluvion, between the bays of the well built, and in some places adorned Patapsco and the Gunpowder, lie at its with trees and gardens, make a very base. All the county is uneven; but handsome appearance, and are among the above the head of tidewater it becomes most attractive residences in the United more rough and more elevated; and at States. Reigerstown, seventeen miles northwest The north parts of the city are the from Baltimore, the surface is five hunmost elevated, and occupy several round- (ired feet above the level of tidewater. ish hills, eighty or a hundred feet above The elevation is still greater at the souththe level of the harbor. The natuial east foot of the dividing ridge between surface has here been modified to suit Baltimore and Frederick counties-the the convenience of the inhabitants, and farms are eight hundred feet above the to render the streets more uniform, so harbor: so that there is a difference of that the ascent firom the water, although a week or ten days in the seasons. This in some places steep, is nowhere difficult. variety of surface and climate renders The lower parts of the city are on the the variety of vegetation very great. alluvion which borders the bay or basin, The great western railroad firom Baland there the streets are more closely timore, to be extended to the Ohio, built and crowded: still their straight- skirts along the southwest border of this ness and regularity render them more county; while the Susquehanna and the convenient and clean than the business Washington railroads bring their numerparts of many other commercial towns ous trains across it to the city, though of equal size. the latter is connected, as a branch, with On the south side of the city, at the the western railroad. enrtrance of the outer or first harbor-on Early History of Baltimore.-The a point of land which rises by a gradual first settlement of Maryland, under the ascent to an eminence-is situated Fort patent of Lord Baltimore, was made on M'Henry, the principal defence of the the nolth bank of the Potomac, at St. city by water. This fort endured a Mary's, which was intended to become bombardment by a British squadron in the capital of the new colony, but is a the war of 1812, through an entire night, place of no distinction. and held out successfully. The point The first settler within the limits of is connected with the mainland bly a Baltimore was a man named Gorsuch, long, low, and sandy neck, over which, who took a patent of lands, twenty-eigtt as well as ihe neighboring water, the years later, on WVhetstonel)oint. This is guns of the fort have an advantageous now included in the review-glound of command. the Baltimore militia. Among those The country around Baltimore is who settled soon after him in this vicinmarked by some peculiar features. Bal- ity was Charles Carroll, whose estate, timore county extends to Chesapeake on the high ground behind Baltimore, l)ay on the southeast, to Patapsco river still bears his name. A descendant of on the southwest, to Frederick county his-Charles Carroll, of Carrollton — on the west, to Vork ccunty (Pa.) on the was one of the signers of the Declaranorth, and to Hartford county on the tion of Independence. The original northeast; having an extreme length, pulrchase of Carroll included some of from southeast to northwest, of thirty- the most eligible parts of the present six miles, a mean breadth of twenty- city of Baltimore, which, at an early five miles, and an area of nine hundred day, were sold by Charles and Daniel1 i I ~~~~~~~~~~..~ i k'"' —' —l Wfashington Mlonument, Baltimore...l —.-. — 272 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. Carroll, at prices now surprisingly low, Lieutent-General Ross, intending to capviz., sixty acres, at forty shillings an ture Washington and Baltimore. acre, payment being made in tobacco at After the capture of Washington and one penny per pound. Georgetown, the enemy directed his atAt that time, Baltimore appealrs to tention to Baltimore. Forty smaller have been surrounded with a board vessels, under Admiral Coclrane, sailed fence, with two gates for carriages and for the Patapsco, and arrived at North one for foot-passengers. point, twelve miles from the city. They The Battle of Baltimore. Maryland were drawn up and anchored in a line was invaded by a powerful British army across the river, and the debarkation of in 1814, and Baltimore was saved from the troops soon commenced. The landcapture by the energy of the officers and ing was completed on the morning of soldiers hastily assembled for the de- September 12, and the forces prepared fence. to march against the city, amounting to A British squadron was blockading eight thousand, including soldiers, sailthe coast, and Commodore Barney sailed ors, and marines. At the same time, from Baltimore to protect the harbors, sixteen vessels, including fiigates and &c., in the bay, with a flotilla, consist- bomb-vessels, moved up the river to ing of a cutter, two gunboats, a galley, make an attack by water, in cooperation and nine large barges. At the mouth with the army. The latter anchored at of the Patuxent river he discovered two the distance of two and a half miles schooners and pursued them. One car- from Fort M'Henry, which had been ried eighteen guns; and as both were timely garrisoned by a strong force of soon joined by the barges of a seventy- five thousand men. four, which was soon discovered, he fled The British army proceeded, while a into the mouth of the river. They f)l- bodyofthreethousandAmericans moved lowed, but were driven back, and the out to meet them. Oin intellifence commodore returning anchored about being received by the latter of the enthree miles distant firom the ship. A cmy's approach, two companies of artilfew days after, a rasee of the enemy ar- lery, a few riflemen, and ten artillerynmen rived, with a sloop-of-war; and the com- with a four-pounder, hastened on to modore was compelled to retire to St. meet their advance, which was reported Leonard's creek, pursued by the smaller to be a light corps. But, as the ground vessels and the barges of the larger. was unfavorable to the use of the enThere he extended his line of boats emy's cavalry and artillery, the action across the stream, in order of battle. was sustained by the infantry of the deThe enemy twice advanced and were tachments. twice drixen back, and the eighteen-gun General Ross, pressing forward with schooner was so much injured by the several of his staff, exposed himself, on American shot that she was run on an open field, to the fire of a few Amerishore and abandoned. can sharpshooters posted in an advanA body of artillery from Washington tageotns positionl, and he inistantly rearrived on the 26th, when a combined ceived a mortal vound, and fell, with attack was made on the enemy from the several of his officers. The enemy then land and the water, and with success. pushed on and attacked the American The British retreated after an action of left. two hours, and immediately sailed down The action now became ceneral, and the river. a sharp contest continued li'om two to A short time after, however, having four o'clock, P. M., when the Americans, received large reinforcements from Eu- being in far inferior force, fell back upon rope in consequence of the cessation the reserve. The next day was spent of hostilities with France, the enemy without renewing the action, the enemy formed the plan of a large expedition, taking position in the afteirnoon in ficGnt and soon entered the Chesapeake, ac- of the Americans, driving in their outcompanied by thirty ships-of-war, under posts, and preparing for an attack atl DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 273 night, The weather was stormy, how- ANNAPOLIS. — This town is distinever, and in the morning the British guished as the state capital, and stands reembarked, and a bombardment com- at the mouth of the river Severn, on its menced, which lasted till the following right bank, and three miles from Chesmorning. An attempt was made to apeake bay. It is also, the capital of storm Fort Covington, but failed, with Anne Arundel county. The statehouse, loss, and the expedition retreated down St. John's college, and St. Anne's church, the river." are placed at three points of the city Nature has made generous provision equally distant from each other, forming for extensive and various manufactures centres, at which meet, from different in Maryland. Baltimore and its vicinity directions, the principal streets. The has been said, by a well-qualified writer, other public buildings are the governto possess "unrivalled advantages" for ment-house, methodist church, Roman manufacturing, there not being " on the catholic chapel, the bank, and the semicontinent a location more favorable. nary. There are about four thousand Everything is cheap; and ready access three hundred inhabitants in Annapolis. can be had to all the markets of the It is thirty-seven miles north and sevenUnion. Nothing is wanting but enter- ty-six east fiom Washington, and thirty prise and industry to make the whole miles east of south from Baltimore. nation tributary" to this city. The Statehouse is an oldl tuilding, and THE FLOUR TRADE.-A most exten- has long served for public purposes. sive business is transacted in flour in this The American congress assembled here city. The quantity of wheat-flour tnid during some of the most interesting pecornmeal inspected during the miller's riods of the revolution. The senateyear, from July 1, to June 30, is about chamber, in which they held their sesa million of barrels. sions, remains unaltered to the present The chief wealth of Maryland, we will day. It was there that the solemn scene incidentally remark, is drawn firom its was exhibited of the resignation of his agriculture and mines. Mifiing is now commission by Washington, after the being carried on with great spirit, and close of the war. since the completion of the canal and St. John's College has five professors, railroad from Baltimore to Cumberland, one thousand two hundred and forty operations have been greatly extended. alumni, and about seventy-five students, It is a fact worthy of observation that with a library of about four thousand many of our ocean steamships are using volumes. The commencement is held the semi-bituminous coal of this regiion, on the 22d of February. and large quantities are used at Pitts- HAVRE DE GRACE is a small town at burgh and for steamboats on the Ohio the mouth of Susquehanna river, thirty-' rivers. Furnaces, bloomeries, and rol- six miles northeast from Baltimore and 1' ling-mills, fr the manufacture of iron, sixty miles firom Philadelphia, and con- I have increased wondetrfully in number tains about fifteen hundred inhabitants. during the past five years, and turn out Here commences the Susquehanna cavast quantities of cast and bar iron. The nal, which extends from the Chesapeake principal agricultural produce is wol to the Pennsylvania canals. This town and pork; wheat, Indian corn, and oats: was burnt by the British troops under and tobacco. Maryland stands foulrth Admiral Cockburn, in the late war, in on the list of tobacco-growing states, and 1813. is highly celebrated for the excellency Steam-ferryboats cross the river here, of this staple. Ship-building, chief- and the railroad from Philadelphia to ly carried on at Baltimore, is also an Baltimore passes through this place. extensive branch of industry. The coast ELKTON, forty-five miles fiom Philafisheries employ many hundreds of fam- delphia and about the same distance ilies, and supply not oily sufficient fish from Baltimore, stands at the junction for the market of Baltimore. t ut also n" of the two principal branches of Elk' aall amount for export. river at the head of tidewater. It is a i - __ _I 274 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. place of some trade, and a neat and St. Mary's College was founded in pleasant village. 1830, and has a president, eleven tutors, CHESTERTOWN is thirty miles south- and about one hundred and fifty stueast from Baltimore, thirty firom Chesa- dents. Its libraries contain four thoupeake bay, and eighty-two northeast sand volumes. The commencement is from Washington. It stands on Chester held in the last week in June. Stageriver, and contains over one thousand coaches go to Frederick three times a inhabitants. This is the seat of justice week. of Kent county. A branch of the uni- FREDERICK.-This is one of the prinversity of Maryland is established here. cipal towns in the state, being second in EASTON.-This town is on Tread- importance to Baltimore, from which it haven bay, thirteen miles from Elkton is distant sixty-one miles west. It stands and Chesapeake bay. It contains three on a branch of the Monocasy, in the churches, a courthouse, and an academy. midst of a pleasant country, with a ferThe inhabitants are over one thousand. tile soil. It is laid out with regularity. It is a seaport and the seat of justice of and contains some fine private houses, Talbot county. and several conspicuous public buildCAMBRIDGE, twelve miles distant from ings-a courthouse, county buildings, a Chesapeake bay, is on the Choptank, market, twelve churches, two acadeand contains a courthouse, an academy, mies, a Roman catholic seminary and and two churches, with about eight hun- charity school, and above six thousand dred inhabitants. Stagecoaches run to inhabitants. A branch railroad conSnowhill and to Elkton. It is the seat nects this town with the Baltimore and of justice of Dorchester county, ant is Ohio railroad. thirty-six miles southeast of Annapolis Frederick County next south of Adams in a direct line, but fifty-three by post- courity, and southwest of York county route. (Pa.), lies along the western boundary SNOWHILL is situated on the east side of Baltimore, Anne Arundel, and Montof Pocomoke river, one hundred and gomery counties, from which it is, for a sixty-three miles southeast of Washing- considerable part of the distance, divided ton. It contains a courthouse, an acad- by the ridge of the Southeast mountain. emy, five churches, and about eight It extends south to the Potomac and hundred inhabitants, and is the seat of west to the Blue ridge. It is forty-two justice of Worcester county. miles long and eighteen miles in mean Barren Creek MIineral Springs are breadth, and has an area of seven huntwenty-three miles from Cambridge; dred and seventy-six square miles. It they are resorted to by numbers of visit- is traversed by the Mlonocasy, which ers every seasons. The water contains lies wholly within it, excepting the headoxyde of iron, soda, and magnesia, with waters. The Cotoctin mountain, a mimuriatic acid. nor branch of the Blue ridge, extends WESTMINSTER. -This town stands south, from the northwest part of the near the head of Patapsco river. It has a county, nearly to the Potomac, dividing courthouse, an academy, three churches, the valleys of the Monocasy and the Coand about five hundred inhabitants. It toctin. The surface is not generally lies on the border of Frederick county, hilly, and in some parts level; while the twenty-three miles northwest of Balti- soil is favorable to grain, grass, and more. fruit; and it is one of the best cultivated EMMETTSBURG is twenty-two miles parts of the state. north of Frederick. It stands on the HAGERSTOWN.-This town stands on Monocasy, in the north part of Frederick Antietam creek, and is seventy miles county, and contains four churches, an west fom Baltimore, with daily stageacademy, and eight hundred inhabitants, coaches to Frederick. It contains nine and near it is one of the principal Ro- churches, a townhall, two banks, twe man catholic seminaries, called St. Mary's academies, and nearly five thousand incollege. habitants. It is the seat of justice of MMI~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I? — ~z~ — C~~- ~ I_ _ -. —---- — ~-~ ----— Mn-MAL~ c,, ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Vauc vrtePtxn o h atmr n Wsig~ alod 276 DESGRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. Washington county, and a place of con- bound it on either side. The stream j' siderable importance, lying in the cen- which winds below, and sometimes rises tre of a rich limestone valley. to overflow a great part of the valley, HANCOCK, on the bank of Potomac riv- threatens to undermine and tear away er, contains two churches, an acadbmy, this light and elegant structure. and about five hundred inhabitants. Ample space, however, is left between CUMBERLAND, one hundred and sev- the piers for the passage of the water, enty-eight miles west of Baltimore, is even at the highest floods; and the work on the Potomac, at the mouth of Wills has suffered but occasional and partial creek. It contains a bank, a market, Injuries, from the severest weather and five churches, a courthouse, and about floods. The road is thirty-three miles in two thousand inhabitants. The situa- lerngth, and one of the most important tion is in a varied and wild region, portions of the great line of travelling among the mountains, where coalmines from north to south, especially during abound. The railroad to Baltimore af- the time when congress is in session. fords daily communication with that city The commerce of Maryland is so deand the intermediate places. It is the pendent on the harbor of Baltimore, that seat of justice of Allegany county, and it is well for the state that it possesses the eastern termination of the great the important quality of being accessible western road of the United States called at all seasons of the year. Even when the Cumberland road. impeded by ice, it never freezes so thick ELLICOTT'S MILLS, ten miles south- that it may not easily be opened by west from Baltimore, is situated in a strong steam icebreakers and towboats, wild and picturesque region, and owes which are kept in readiness for the purits existence as a village to the water- pose. Ships of the largest class can power, which is employed in numerous come up to the wharves in the lower manufactures, and to the railroad which harbor; and at Canton they have twenhere crosses the Patapsco, on a fine ty-six feet water. aqueduct of stone. It stands on the " The soil of the state," says Hunt's boundary line of Baltimore and Anne Magazine, "except in a few portions Arundel counties. of it, is well adapted to agriculture. It The Viaduct of the Baltimore and has numerous never-failing streams, with Washington Railroad.-One of the most gradual falls at suitable distances, parstriking objects in the state is the great ticularly in the vicinity of Baltimore. viaduct on which the Baltimore and For manufacturing purposes, and comWashington railload crosses the valley mercial pursuits, Maryland is not exof the Patuxent. A passenger travel- celled by any other state in the Union. ling over it in a car has little opportu- The great American Mediterranean sea, nity to judge of the nature, extent, dif- whose borders she skirts, will be a wall ficulty, and cost of the construction. The of defence about her in time of war, as view from the summit is so extensive, an invading foe would scarcely withand the valley below is seen so nearly draw himself from the ocean-field, in under his feet, that the most careless ob- this improved age of invention, lest his server must be aware that he is moving retreat might be intercepted when he at an unusual height above the surface, found it necessary to retreat; and the and that the road is sustained by a long bosom of that sea will in early afterand narrow, though lofty fabric. To an time waft treasures upon it, that, whether observer, however, from below, or from in the character of imports or exports, a point on either side, the scene is of a will add to her riches. Nature has inmore impressive description. A lofty contestably provided for this result; and and elegant arched bridge extends across the founders of Baltimore (not that anya deep and wild chasm, forming a nar- thing like prescience is to be ascribed to row but solid and level path, for the them, even as regards the state of imlong anti heavy trains of cars which pass provements as they exist at present) so over it, between the natural banks that _located it, that it becomes a point of I- - -- hI DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 277 concentration, whence again allthe travel especially apples and pea,hes, some of diverges, if economy as to distance be which are very superior in quality. considered, whether the direction be Melons, of every variety, are abundant from north to south, or east to west, and everywhere. Tobacco is cultivated in vice versa. The near proximity of the eleven of the counties, but principally seat of national government is no draw- in Prince George, Culvert, Charles, St. bIack upon, but adds to, her value; and Mary's, Anne Arundel, and Montgomery. should congress in its wisdom authorize More than nine Inillions of pounds were l the establishment of a national bank, raised in Prince George, and twelve where is there a city, all matters in ref- millions in all the counties afterward i erence to other banks and places con- named, in the year 1839. i sidered, more eligible and safe, for the Good horses, mules, neat-cattle, sheep, present, than Baltimore? and swine, are raised in every county, "Nearly all the great prominent agri- but Frederick excels in this branch: in cultural productions of the United States this county, according to the census of are grown in Maryland, except cotton, 1840, there were then 11,259 horses and sugar, and rice; and each year further mules, 24,933 neat-cattle, 26,309 sheep, developments are made in reference to and 54,049 swine. The bacon of this some exotics. If there were agricul- county is preferred to any other, bringtural societies, and fairs held, as in some ing at Baltimore fiom one quarter to of the eastern states, where the choice one half cent. more per pound. productions of the earth could be exhib- All the counties produce wool; but ited, and competent persons appointed to the yield is not large-not above three pronounce upon them and award pre- hundred thousand pounds per annum, miums, it would act as a great stimulant which was the amount in 1840 for the to, enterprise, aside from the profits im- whole state. Frederick county gave of mediately resulting to the grower. So this fifty-nine thousand pounds. In butwith live stock, of all descriptions; but ter and cheese, also, this county exceeds these subjects are somewhat neglected by the others. the present tillers of the soil, and those The forest-tre.es of the middle states o(f politics have, to too great an extent, abound in all the counties of this state. usurped their places. Some fifteen or The best woods for fuel are the oaks, twenty years since, when Maryland was hickory, beech, and dogwood. Oak luxuriating in a more palmy sunshine commonly sells in Baltimore at from,of favors than at present, such exhi- four to five and a half dollars per cord, Ib itions were not unfrequent, and politics and the others at friom five to seven dolslept: there may be a recurrence of a lars. Pine is abundant, but neither the similar prosperous period. white nor the pitch-pine. The hemI "Corn, wheat, and oats, thrive kindly lock has its southern boundary in the in every county. Rye is not so gener- west parts of Maryland, excepting a ally cultivated; the western counties small district in the Allegany mountains appear more congenial to its growth. in Virginia. In New England the bark Buckwheat, barley, and pulse, are not of this tree, there so common, is much so specially attended to. The yield of used in tanning. The oak of this state flaxseed is only middling, compared with is excellent for shipbuilding, being inthat of other grains." ferior only to the live-oak. The celePotatoes are of excellent flavor, and brated dam across the Kennebeck river, the crops fair, but not equal to the de- in Maine, is built of oak from Maryland. mand. Small parcels of sweet-potatoes It was cut in Baltimore county near a come to Baltimore, chiefly from the stream flowing into the Chesapeake. southern and eastern counties. Hay is Among the plans for internal improvethe growth of the western shore, and is ment is one for a canal through that chiefly timothy, with some clover. It stream to Havre de Grace. Cedar and never exceeds home-consumption. Fruit locust are abundant in some parts of is better adapted to the same counties, the lower counties, and are exported in 278 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 2 great quantities to the eastern states for Mineral-springs are common in the shipbuilding, with oak timber. The ce- west, and the waters of some, which dar and locust of Maryland are also in have been analyzed, are found to condlemand for railroads. tain sulphate of magnesia, sulphate of The amount of exports annually made lime, muriate of soda, muriate of lime, fiom the numerous navigable branches carbonate of lime, &c. of the bay, it is impossible to ascertain, STATISTICS.-The population of the and difficult to estimate. state of Maryland, according to the cenCoal abounds, principally in Allegany sus of several successive dates, has been county, and it is mostly of the bitumin- as follows: — OUS kind. The Chesapeake and Ohio |Years. Whllites. FreeCol'd Persons. Slaves. Total. canal, from the falls at Georgetown, 1790 221,647 8,043 103,707 349,728 1800 221,998 19,987 107,707 349,654 along the Potomac, was made chiefly 1810 235,117 33,927 111,502 380,546 for the purpose of bringing this coal to i 1820 260,222 39,730 107,398 407,350 market. The cost of this work has been 1830 291,093 52,912 102,873 446,913 very great, and unexpected difficulties 1840 318,204 62,078 89,737 470,019 were found in the way of the western 1856 418,763 73,943 89.800 582506 terminu~ alo* the monan * regIon AGRICULTU IAL PROI)UCTIONS. terminus, along the mountainous region l Wheat. 3,541,433bush. value$2,655,075 where the coal-beds are situated. The Corn 83565 " " 3,133,613, Corn. $,356565. 3,133,613 Frostburg coal-basin, according to the Oats 3,579,950 ".. 919,988 report of the state geologist, Professor Rye.. 784,303 " " 392,151 Ducatel, is forty miles long and five Buckwheat 47,858 " " 1,450 miles wide, containing 86,847 acres. Potatoes. 1,058,901 " " 211,780 The coal, being fifteen yards in depth, Tobacco 21,916,012 bs. " 1,095,800 must be in amount more than six thou- Ha 110,16 tons " 1,100,000 sand millions of cubic yards. Each cu- Hemp Cotton. 7,108 lbs " 700 bic yard weighs a ton. Wool.. 502,499 " " 100,500 The Lonaconing iron region is in the Hops.. 2,368 bush. " 473 same county, and is estimated to contain The following is the number of live three thousand millions of tons of ore, stock, with their value:or one thousand millions of tons of Horses and mules. 94,054 $4,000,000 crude iron. Neat-cattle... 238,827 2,000,000 Many companies have been formed Swine.. 419,520 1,252,000 and incorporated for several years, for Sheep.262,807 394,210 the working of the coal and iron mines. MANUFACTURES. Some of them have commenced opera- Number oftions with success. The mines at Elk- Mills-Flour 212 (1,000,000. as wheat) ridge Hone yield iron of superior qual-,, Grist 433 aue. ity, adapted to fine castings. This and, Saw 423 $61,000 other varieties of ore from the vicinity Oil 9 of Baltimore, yield from about thirty-," Powder 5 (669,000 lbs.) five to fifty per cent. of iron. Bog-ore " Paper 16 195,100 is founi in Worcester county, and has Factories-Cotton 15 2,348,580 been wrought to some extent. It yields Woollen 29 235,900 twenty-nine per cent. Potteries 22 61,240 twenty-nine per-mi cent. PoDistilleries 73 (342,813 gals.) 68,562 Several copper-mines exist in Fred- Breweries 11(529,640 do.) 105,928 erick county, chiefly near the village of Furnaces, forges, 3 New London. The ore yields about androlling-mills 30 thirty per cent. Tanneries 159 The following minerals are also found Ropewalks 13 61,240 in Maryland, which will prove valuable, Shipbuilding (7,890 tons) 227,771 viz.: anthracite, granite, marble, soap- The number of primary and common stone, limestone, flint, sandstone, slate, schools at the present time does not fall potters'-clay, fire-clay, pipe-clay, various much. if any, short of 1,000; scholars ochres, chrome, aluminous earths, &c. I about 25,000. Ii — _ DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 279 ThE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA., I THIE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA was ceded description are compiled from several to the United States in 1790, and made authentic works. the seat of government in 1800. It A more beautiful site for a city could has ever since been the capital of the hardlybe obtained. From a pointwhere Union, and under the government of the Potomac, at a distance of two huncongress. A spot was selected on the dred and ninety-five miles fiom the ocean, Potomac river, at the head of naviga- and flowing from northwest to southeast, tion for ships-of-war (where the navy- expands to the width of a mile, extended yard has since been established), and back an almost level plain, hemmed in with a surface deemed favorable for the by a series of gradually-sloping hills, foundation of a city. terminating with the heights of GeorgeThe extent of territory was ten miles town; the plain being nearly three miles square, with the Potomac river flowing in length from east to west, and varying through it, and includingr the mouth of fiom a quarter of a mile to two miles in the eastern branch of that river, where breadth; bounded on the east by the the water is deep, and the shores favor- eastern branch of the Potomac, where able to the site of a navyyard. The are now the navyyard and the congresland on the east side of the Potomac sional cemetery, and on the west by the was ceded to the United States govern- Rock creek, which separates it from ment by Maryland, and that on the west Georgetown. The small stream from I side by Virginia; but tile latter has been the north, over which the railroad bridge recently ceded back to Virginia, after now passes on entering the city, emplong experience of the inconveniences tied into a bay or inlet of the Potomac arising frombeing under the jurisdiction about four hundred feet wide, which of congress, who have so many, and jutted in from the west to within a quarmore extensive interests in their care. ter of a mile of the Capitol hill, and The city of Alexandria, lately included nearly divided the plain. Not far from in the federal district, is expected to de- the head of this, and south of the Capirive special benefits from her restoration tol hill, a small stream took its rise in a to Virginia. Washington and George- large number of springs, and emptied town are the only towns now, belonging into the river at a place now called to it; and these lie so contiguous to each Greenleaf's point, formed by the interother, that they have almost the appear- section of the eastern branch with the ance of one continued city. Potomac, and was known as Jones's The district of Columbia is bounded creek. There is a stream above Georgenorth and east by Maryland, and south town, which has always been called and west by Potomac river. It is eight Goose creek; but from a certificate of miles long, and about one and a half a survey now preserved in the mayor's broad. The capitol stands in latitude office at Washington, dated 1663, it ap76~ 55' 30" west from Greenwich. The pears that the inlet from the Potomac surface is undulated, and the soil poor. was then known by the name of Tiber, The navyyard is in the eastern part of and probably the stream from the north the district, about one mile from Capitol emptying into it bore the same name; so hill; and from the latter, nearly to the that Moore did injustice to the history falls of the Potomac, extend WTashing- of the place, and confounded streams, ton and Georgetown, making a striking when he wrote the well-known line — display when seen from the river below. And what was Goose creek once is Tiber now." Railroad cars have communication with By the same survey it appears that the Baltimore several times aday, andsteam- land comprising the Capitol hill was boats ply on the Potomac and down the called " Rome," or "'Room," two names [bay. Some portions of the following which seem to have foreshadowed the _ _ _ __ --— ~ —CII= —--— ~ —----. —T — eF —;-'.- ---- - —----— _ n —---— = —- --- -------- -- ~ ~ ~ -- -- ~- -== —L- -— C —-— ~~ —=- ------— i-=5 —_ -- - -- - —- --- ~i ------ ---------------— _ _ _ --- ---- _I —r —------- ----— _ ----— ~ — —-- ---- -------- --- ----— L--------------------- ----- _ —-_ __ _ —---- — - -- ------ -— —-— ~ —--- C -- -- ---— —- ----— = —- —-— =L~=-L - __ —. -- -- ---— ------------------- -----—; —-_-___I —----- ___ -- ----------------- --- ------ ---------------------— ——, _ __ ;-_-_====_==========-========_I- ---- - — _ — L —-_ - -— _ —--— L — ---- - _ —--- --- -------- - ----- -- - -- ---------- -------- - ------- ----------— C — ------- -— —- ~ --— ___ —----------------- _I -- _ --------- ---- ---- --------------- -- ---- --------— -e - ----------------------- -C —-- -- C —--- - ----- ----— - ~ L - —-- ----.. --------- ~~ I I ~%3isi,;s4i.. II i It ~~~ ~II "' ar-IT iii.... te sz-- II 111 sr. — —s —r= r~IWLf —-=r —-— -;,, r-, f --- " ~c ~h` II Washington. Ij 1 --- -- DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 281 destiny of the place. It is thought that his early life, and had often been his they probably originated in the fact that rival in athletic exercises. The unforthe name of the owner of the estate was tunate man was brave as a lion, and had Pope, and in selecting a name for his served with great distinction in the war plantation, he formed the title of " Pope of the revolution. Tears soon gave way of Rome." to indignation, and Washington, pointIt is said that Washington's attention ing to a lofty rock which juts over the had been called to the advantages which stream at its remarkable passage through this place presented for a city, as longr the mountain, exclaimed, with a voice previous as when he had been a youth- tremulous from feeling: "By Heaven, ful surveyor of the country round. His were I the sole judge of these Indians, judgment was confirmed by the fact that it would be slight retaliation to hurl two towns were afterward planned on every spectator of his death from that the spot, and the first maps of the city height into the abyss." represent it as laid out over the plains The first corner-stone in the district of Hamburgh and Carrollsville. of Columbia was laid at Jones's point, The canoe, or pirogue, in which Gen- near Alexandria, April 15, 1791, with eral Washington and a party of fiiends the imposing masonic ceremonies of the first made the survey of the Potomac, time, and a quaint address by the Rev. was hollowed out of a large poplar-tree James Muir. By the retrocession of on the estate of Col. Johnson, of Fred- Alexandria, the stone is no longer within erick county, Maryland. This humble the limits of the district. bark was placed upon a wagon, hauled The first public communication on to the margin of the Monocasy river, record in relation to arrangements for launched into the stream, and there re- laying out this city is fiom the pen of ceived its honored fieight. The general General Washington, and bears date the was accompanied by Governor Johnson, 11th March, 1791; in a subsequent letone of the first commissioners for the ter of the 30th April, lie calls it the Fed location of the city of Washington, and eral city. Four months later, in a lettei several other gentlemen. At nightfall, by the original commissioners- Messrs it was usual for the party to land and Johnson, Stuart, and Carroll-dated seek quarters of some of the planters, Georgetown, 9th September, 1791, ador farmers, who lived near the banks of dressed to the architect, Major L'Enfant, the river, in all the pride and comfort he is instructed to entitle the district on of old-fashioned kindliness and hospi- his maps the " Territory of Columbia," tality. Putting up for a night at a re- and the city, the "City of Washington." spectable farmer's, the general and the On the 18th September, 1793, the two Johnsons were shown into a room southeast corner-stone of the north wing having but two beds. "Come, gentle- of the capitol was laid by General Washmen!" said Washington, "who will be ington. The Philadelphia papers of my bedfellowS" Both declined. Col. the day were at that time discontinued Johnson often afterward declared, that, from the panic of the yellow-fever, so greatly as he should have felt honored we have no account of the celebration. by such intimacy, the awe and reverence A speech was delivered, however, by with which the chief had inspired him, Washington. even in their daily and unreserved inter- The architect, Major L'Enfant, went course, would have made the liberty on to lay out the streets, in the first seem little short of profanation. place, by setting out right angles, after While the party were exploring in the fashion of Philadelphia, and then inthe vicinity of Harper's ferry, news ar- tersecting them by those enormous averived of the burning at the stake of nues which were contrived to show the Colonel Crawford, by the Indians, at public buildings, the president's house, Sandusky. Washington became excited and the capitol, from all quarters; and to tears at hearing the recital, for Craw- hence the perplexing dust and triangles ford had been one of the companions of of Washington. 282 DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. It was generally remarked of L'Enfant The representatives' chamber is a fine that he was not only a child in name, semicircular apartment, with columns but in education; as, from the names he of a dark-bluish siliceous pudding-stone, gave the streets, he appeared to know hard and highly polished. It is lighted little else than A, B, C, and one, two, from above. The gallery is open during three. It appears, however, by a letter the debates, as well as the senate-chamof the commissioners, that they gave her, which is a much smaller apartment. these names to the streets at the same The library of congress is in another time with that to the city; for conve- part of the building; and the great hall nience a good arrangement, since the contains seven national pictures (each of streets could more easily be found by a them twelve feet by eighteen): the Decstranger under such designations. laration of Independence, Surrender of The mall upon which the Smithsonian BIurgoyne at Saratoga, Surrender of institute and its gardens have been lo- Cornwallis at Yorktown, and Washingcated, was originally designed as the lead- ton resigning his Commission, painted for ing avenue from the capitol to the presi- government by Colonel Trumbull; Bapdent's house, terminating by a bridge tism of Pocahontas, by Chapman; Emacross the river, and meeting a monu- barkation of the Pilgrims, by Weir; and ment which was to have been erected to the Landing of Columbus, by Vanderlyn. Washington-an equestrian statue, with A fine view is enjoyed from the top a baton in the right hand of the hero of the capitol. You look along Pennpointing to heaven. sylvania avenue westward to the presiWashington-who took so strong an dent's house, with Georgetown and the interest in the construction of the capi- Potomac beyond; the general postoffice, tol as to solicit a loan himself, in a letter &c., on the right; the navyyard toward to the governor of Maryland-did not the southeast; Greenleaf's point nearly live to witness its completion. He died south; and southwest the bridge over 14th February, 1799. In November, the Potomac, with the road to Alexan1800, congress met there for the first dria and Mount Vernon. The canal time. begins south of the president's house, At present the attractions of the capi- and terminates at the east branch. tal are on the increase. The private The capitol presents a noble appeararchitecture is improving; the growth ance; its height, the ascending terraces, of the city is advancing with the enlarge- the monument and its fountain, the grand ment of the nation; the museums, con- balustrade of fieestone which protects taining the collections of the exploring the offices below, and the distinct object expedition, are open; the patent office, which it forms, standing alone on its with its models of inventions, inviting lofty site, combine to make up the imnthe attention, every year adding to the as- pression of grandeur, in which its archisociations of the capital; and the bright tectural defects are lost or forgotten. schemes of scholars and men of science The waste lands which lie at the foot hanging upon the prospects of the Smith- of Capitol hill are appropriated for a sonian institute, its library and its gar- future botanical garden. dens-these confirm the hopes of Wash- There are many very favorable points ington, and justify the name borrowed of view for the capitol, standing, as it from that illustrious founder of the city. does, higher than the general level of The Capitol presents specimens of the country. There are views from the various styles of architecture. On en- distant eminences, which are particutering the south wing, several columns larly fine, in which the broad bosom of are seen, where carvings of Indian-corn- the Potomac forms thebackgroutnd. The stalks are substituted for flutings and I effect of the building is also remarkafilletings; while the capitals are made of bly imposing when the snow is on the Lhe ears of corn half stripped, and dis- ground, and the whole structure, risngo posed so as in some degree to resemble from a field of snow, with its dazzling the Corinthian or composite order. whiteness, looks like some admirable i/j I jfiI I Ii;llt, I / j/J// Iji Ill,,I I, I, i c i I~~~ _./___ I cp t. i,!l~,11 II I i n, ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~it ] i Ii!t1 ___ ________ I I I i i l ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~.~ ~ ~ ~ ~~ ~ ~~~~~ 1' -I' I I " lHftf 11,!' _ ii_,,' r1! ~ I,'I t J' Or~~~~~~~~~~~ I,, i 1 Ii'! ti l 284 DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. creation of the frost. All architecture, Paul Veronese would have delighted to however, is very much improved by the draw. presence ot a multitude of people, and "I was in the crowd thronging the the capitol looks its best on the day of opposite side of the court, and lost sight inauguration. The following descrip- of the principal actors in this imposing tion was written after viewing that cere- drama till they returned from the senatemony: — chamber. A temporary platform had " The sun shone out of heaven with- been laid and railed in on the broad out a cloud on the inaugural morning. stair which supports the portico, and all The air was cold but clear, and the preparation made for one of the most broad avenues of Washington, for once, important and most meaning and solemn seemed not too large for the thronging ceremonies on earth.... In comparing population-the crowds who had been the impressive simplicity of this consumpouring in from every direction for sev- mation of the wishes of a mighty peoeral days before, and ransacking the ple, with the ceremonial and hollow show town for but a shelter from the night... which embarrasses a correspondingevent The sun shone alike on the fiiends and in other lands, it was impossible not to opponents of the new administration; feel that the moral sublime was herearid, as far as one might observe in a that a transaction so important, and of walk to the capitol, all were made cheer- such extended and weighty import, could ful alike by its brightness... In a whole borrow nothing from drapery or decoday, passed in a crowd composed of all ration. classes and parties, I heard no remark "The crowd of diplomatists and senthat the president would have been un- ators in the rear of the columns made willing to hear. way; and the ex-president, with the new "I was at the capitol a half-hour be- president, advanced with their heads unfore the procession arrived, and had lei- covered; the former bowed to the peosure to study a scene for which I was ple, and, still uncovered in the cold air, unprepared. The noble staircase of the took his seat beneath the portico. The east front of the building leaps over three new president then read his address to atrches, under one of which carriages the people. pass to the basement door; and as you "When the address was closed, the approach from the gate, the eye cuts chief-justice advanced and administered the ascent at right angles, and the sky, the oath. As the book touched the lips broken by a small spire at a short dis- of the new president, there arose a gentance, is visible beneath. Broad stairs I eral shout, an expression of feeling comoccur at equal distances, with corres- mon enough inothercountries, but dr-awn peonding projections, and firom the upper with difficulty from an American assemplatform rise the outer columns of the blage. The friends of the president portico, with ranges of columns three then closed around him, the ex-presideep extending back to the pilasters. I dent and others gave him the hand of had often admired this front, with its congratulation, and the ceremony was many graceful columns and its superb over." flight of stairs, as one of the finest things The President's House.-The resiI had seen in the world. The assem- dence of the chief-magistrate of the bled crowd on the steps and at the base United States resembles the country-seat of the capitol, heightened inconceivably of an English nobleman, in its architecthe grandeur of the design. They were ture and size; but it is to be regretted piled up like the people on the temples that the parallel ceases when we come of Babylon, in one of Martin's sublime to the grounds. By itself it is a compictures. Boys climbed about the bases modious and creditable building, serving of the columns; single figures stood on its purpose without too much state for the posts of the surrounding railings a republican country, yet likely, as long in the boldest relief against the sky; as the country exists without primojand the whole scene was exactly what geniture and rank, to be sufficiently su-----------— ~I H tiii!ii!1!{m!!!!{!{t i'~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I il i~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ji III iii 1f~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ii~~i{{1t 1! i'!!'I i! i! I { Ii ii I!' I I t'l I'~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~{ II'I!!i m~~~ iL cb ii~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I 286 DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. perior to all other dwelling-houses to in an eminent degree the inventive and mark it as the residence of the nation's ingenious character of our countrymen. ruler. There are machines here for almost The president's house stands near the every purpose-ploughs, harrows, rakes, centre of an area of some twenty acres, saws, water-wheels, coffee-mills, cornoccupying a very advantageous eleva- snellers, stump-removers, and a multition, open to the view of the Potomac, tude of other things, all arranged acand about forty-four feet above high cording to their kinds. In one part are water, and possessing from its balcony agricultural implements; in another are one of the loveliest prospects in our coun- machines for the manufacture of cotton; try-the junction of the two branches of in another, those for the manufacture of the Potomac which border the district, wool, &c. The number of these invenand the swelling and varied shores be- tions amounts to many hundreds, and yond of the states of Maryland and Vir- some of them display admirable skill ginia. The building is one hundred and' contrivance on the part of the inand seventy feet firont and eighty-six ventors. deep, and is built of white fieestone, We make the following extracts from with Ionic pilasters, comprehending two the report of the commissioner of patlofty stories, with a stone balustrade. ents:The north front is ornamented with a The amount received for patent,, ca.portico, sustained by four Ionic col- yeats, reissues, and addiltional improveumns, with three columns of projec- ments, recording assignments, &c., and tion-the outer intercolumniation af' for copies, during the year 1850, was fording a shelter for carriages to drive $86,927.05. The expenditures for the under. The garden-firnt on the river year 1850, were as follows:is varied by what is called a rusticated For salaries -- 29,260.94 basement-story, in the Ionic style, and For contingent expenses - 13,430.19 by a semicircular projecting colonnade For books for library - - 767.47 of six columns, with two spacious and For temporary cle'ks - - 13,361.67 airy flights of steps leading to a balus- iFor afgricul ural statistics - 3,859.35 trade on the level of the principal story. For refundling money - - 258.00 The interior of the president's house For withdrawals - - - 18,013.33 is well disposed, and possesses one su- F7or compensationoflibrarian.500.00 perb reception-room, and two oval draw- For pay of district judge - 100.00 ing-rooms (one in each story), of very For analysis of breadstuffs - 500.00 beautiful proportions. The other rooms For restoring models - - 50.00 are not remarkable; and there is an inlequality in the furniture of the whole $80,100.95 house (owing to the unwillingness and Leaving $6,826.10 to be carried to the piecemeal manner with which congress credit of the patent fund. The amount votes any moneys for its decoration), remaining in the treasury to the credit which destroys its effect as a comfort- of the patent fund on the first (lay of able dwelling. The oval rooms are car- January, 1851, was $1.5,331.27. The peted with Gobelin tapestry, worked patent fund, at the commencement of with the national emblems, and are alto- 1850, amounted to about $170,000. But gether in a more consistent style than during the year about $160,000 was apthe other parts of the house. propliated by Congress foir the purpose Th/e Patent-OJice.-This building is of additional wing to the pa:ent office. a depository for the models of such in- During the year 1850, the whole numventions as are patented in the United ber of applications presented to the patStates. The old patent-office was a few ent office was 2,193. Every application years ago burned down. The present which is not finally disposed of upon the is a handsome and extensive edifice, and first examination, may be the subject of well adapted to the purpose for which re-examination at any time thereafter; it is designed. The contents display and a large proportion of the time of II ___ _-_,_ _.__ _ _ __ _ ___J I DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 287 the examiners is taken up in such re- which, of course, required and produced examinations. The actual number of a corresponding increase of exertion on applications rejected is less than the the part of the examining corps. number patented, as many of those pat- It appears that the number of patents ented were rejected upon their first ex- does not increase in proportion to the amination, in consequence of the appli- number of applications, but that the cant failing to specify what was really number of rejections increases in a his invention, and laying claim to what much greater ratio; and that in 1844 was neither new nor patentable. Such there were more patents granted than cases are not of unfrequent occurrence. in 1845; and this occurred under the n It often happens that two or three rejec- same commissioner, and with the same tions are recorded upon one application, examining corps. The causes which each re-examination requiring new in- have produced this result still exist, and vestigations and elaborate reasoning to will probably continue to exert a steadmeet the new claims and views of the ily-increasing influence throughout the applicant, and to sustain the decision future operations of this office. of the office. In every section of the country may The subjects of applications for pat- be found worthy and ingenious men, ents are comprised under twenty-two whose energies are directed toward ingeneral classes, each of them embracing ventions and discoveries in the arts. many subdivisions-in some cases more Some of these are sufficiently informed than twenty. of what has already been done, in the The inquiry is frequently made, How particular department to which their atis it that applications for patents multi- tention is directed, to avoid, in some ply so fast. Is there so much room left good degree, the beaten track; but the for improvement in this or that branch number and variety of inventions alof art? Superficial observers are apt ready made are so great, that few can to be looking for consummation not only enter upon a career of invention with in individual branches of art, but in sufficient knowledge to avoid a succesthe whole range of human productions. sion of reinventions, which add nothing They regard the wants of man as limit- to the arts, and which it is the duty of able, his mind as exhaustible, and, with this office to reject. Of course, the atan air of sagacity, will point to a time tention of the uniformed inventor is when the overgrown wings of genius directed to discoveries of an elementary will retard and finally check his career. character. These are necessarily limA look at the past would mirror in its ited in their number, and the field has true light this distorted view of things; everywhere been preoccupied by thoubut even this is not necessary. A lib- sands of every variety of mind; anti eral survey of the present, a glance at whatever he may fix upon is already the depths of mind, see "increase and public property, or has been approprimultiply," stamped upon his intellec- ated by some one who has preceded tual. as well as his physical nature. The him. As invention is rapidly progresmultiplying products of intelligence are sing in every part of the civilized world, no hinderance to his onward move- each year will trench still further upon ment; and those seemingly formidable the only department open to uniformed accumulations of innovations offer no inventors; and as their number is likely effective resistance to the wheels of in- to increase rather than diminish, rejecvention. They are rather so many step- tions must inevitably be multiplied; and ping-stones, over which genius is striding the consequences, unfortunately, have up the hill of perfection, whose summit often fallen, and must continue to fall, is beyond the confines of time. upon men whose industry, talents, and It appears that during the year 1844, perseverance, deserve, and, if well di. the number of applications for patents rected, would be rewarded by distinsuddenly increased nearly twenty-five guished success. per cent. above that of any former year, ] While the threshold is thus thronged - _...I. 288 DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. by the multitudes who are treading upon A part of the applications of every each other, the field beyond, to the eye year since 1839 are still pending, and of those who can explore it, is almost liable to be called up at any moment, limitless. Every discovery which is though they are in such condition that made appears to shed light upon others this office is compelled to await the achitherto enveloped in obscurity; each tion of the applicant. furnishes the key to a group, and the The history of this office for several thinas to be discovered seem to multi- years, in addition to a great and steady ply in proportion to those already dis- increase of inventions, presents also the covered. fact, always observable in the progress The first examination of an applica- of the arts, that while some classes are tion is intended to be as thorough as receiving numerous and important adthe condition of the papers and models ditions, others appear to receive little will admit. If the claim can not be al- or no attention; or, if efforts are made lowed, the machine is carefully exam- toward their improvement, they fail of ined,to discover whetherit comprehends success. But succeeding years produce any other feature or combination which an entire revolution; and those branches would justify the grant of letters-patent. whose rapidity of progress had astonIf anything patentable is discovered, the ished the world, in their turn become papers are returned to the applicant, torpid, and improvements burst forth with such suggestions as will assist him with unlooked-for brilliancy fiom the in mending them and properly modify- dust and ashes which have accumulated ing his claim; but if nothing patentable upon a long-neglected department of is discovered, the application is at once the arts. The main current, however, rejected, and the necessary references is always onward, although, at some given; as it is deemed worse than use- points, it appears to stagnate or retroless to put the applicant to the trouble grade. But let not the inventor be and expense of amending and perfect- deceived or discouraged; these are but ing his papers, when it is believed that the eddies. Let him persevere; the no amendment could avoid a final rejec- eddy of to-day may be' the torrent of tion. But this office, firom its reorgan- to-morrow. ization, has been liberal in reconsider-' The commissioner, in his report for ing rejected applications. The appli- 1845, speaks of the existing law by cant is always permitted to amend his which a subject of Great Britain is compapers, and to present new or amended pelled to pay into the treasury the sum claims, which render it necessary again of five hundred dollars before his applito examine the application as if it were cation can be examined, and the citizens new. If it is again rejected, this ad- and subjects of all foreign countries to ditional rejection is entered upon the pay three hundred dollars on their rerecord kept by the examiner, and is spective applications. He says:counted as a rejection. There are in- "These duties were designed to bear stances in every year's experience of some proportion to the duties required cases being represented with different of American citizens making applicaclaims two or three times, each change tions for patents in other countries, and raising questions entirely new, and re- on that ground may, perhaps, be justiquiring the same examinations and con- flied and defended. sideration as would be required by so "The effect of this provision is unmany distinct applications. All expe- questionably to prevent theintroduction rience of the examining corps has shown into this country of many useful and the importance of making these re-ex- valuable discoveries, which would otheraminations, as it sometimes occurs that, wise be patented and int-roduced. Simowing to the imperfect manner in which ilar high duties have the effect to exclude the papers have been prepared, a pat- American inventions from other counentable feature of the machine has es- tries. Thus all countries are injured caped the notice of the examiner. by this system of taxing genius for the DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 289 exertion of its powers, in order to ob- at Trenton, and commissioners appointtain comparatively a very small and tri- ed with powers to lay out a district on fling amount of revenue. the Delaware within eight miles above "It affords no protection to the Amer- or below the falls, make the necessary ican inventor to keep out the discoveries purchases, erect public buildings, reof his foreign emulator (not rival) in the serve exclusive jurisdiction, &c. The arts, by taxing the emanations of his question as to place was revived in congenius with high duties, while the coun- gress in 1789-'90, with the view of setly would derive much benefit fiom their curing a central position. A site on the introduction." Susquehanna was tallied of, and finally HISTORY.-Washington is the only the present district determined on, which spot where it is practically seen, that, then went by the name of Connogofor national purposes, we are one peo- cheague. New York was not central ple. The United States forts, arsenals, enough; Philadelphia and Germantown and navyyards are limited in their asso- had their supporters, as well as Havre ciations. At Washington we see a dis- de Grace, a place called Wright's Ferry trict set apart as the national centre; on the Susquelhanna, and Baltimore. its inhabitants, in a spirit of patriotism, The South Carolinians objected to Philrelinquishing the right of suffrage, to be adelplhia, that the quakers would be for free firom the taint of party spirit, and ever dogging the members with schemes its very vastness and unoccupied dis- of emancipation. Others laughed at the tances pointing to the future, and filling idea of palaces in the wood. the mind with admiration of the hopes The friends of the new site numlbered of its founders. the names of Washington, Madison, Lee, Before the establishment of the dis- and Carroll, and their choice was govtrict of Columbia, congress occasionally erned by these considerations. It was met, according to the exigencies of the not desiral,]e that the political capital case, or the convenience of members, should be in a commercial metropolis. at Philadelphia, Baltimore, Lancaster, It was necessary, for the independence Yorktown, Princeton, Annapolis, Tren- of the government and its proper secuton, and New York. The different rity, that its jurisdiction should be ex states, in the meantime, coveted the clusive-that its officers should not be honor of the national city. New York under the influence of the citizens: offered the town of Kingston; Rhode hence the elective franchise was to be Island, Newport; Maryland, Annapolis; given up, which no large city would and Virginia, Willii;msburg. yield. Party feeling, which then ran On the 21st Octo, er, 1783, congress, high, was to be avoided; the natural insulted at Philadelphia by a band of influence of wealth on the spot was mutineers, whom the state authorities feaied, and the examples of London and were unable to quell, adjourned to the Westminster in the importance of their halls of the college at Princeton-a cir- six members in parliament was quoted. cumstance which doubtless led to the It was desirable that the simplicity of agitation of the question of a permanent the members of government, in their seat of government, which was taken up style of living, should not be contrasted at this time, and continued to be dis- with the luxury of a great city, or be comcussed till the formation of the constitu- pelled to submit to its costlier chlarges. tion. A resolution of Mr. Gerry, 7th Moreover, large quantities of land were October, 1783, was adopted, that a dis- wanted, which must be purchased at great trict be chosen on the banks of the Del- expense where land was already dear. aware or the Potomac, near Georgetown, Looking to the future, it was thought which underwent various modifications expedient to provide for all possible (one of which was that both sites be wants more amply than could, under selected), till it was repealed in the fol- any circumstances, be effected in a city lowing year. On the 30th of October, already built. 1784, the subject was again taken up For a central situation, it was seen 19 290 DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. that the centres of territory, wealth, and The foresight of the congless which population, could not be united. In de- selected Washington for the seat of govtermining upon the centre of the line ernment, has been in many points justiof seacoast, the occupants of the west- fied by the results. If there is much ern territory only asked that it should be to lament in the looseness of manners as far west as the convenience of mari- which, to a considerable extent, prevails time commerce would allow. The spot in the city during the crowded season chosen admitted of a navyyard, and of the session, it is easy to see, that could be connected by canal with waters were the members and other attendants which finally rose to the sources of the at the capital exposed to the influences Ohio. The act finally passed on the of a large city, like New York or Phila16th of July, 1790. delphia, there would be far more evil to Among the most important public regret in the deterioration of the characbuildings in Washington are the " De- ters of individuals; and if room is nowy partments," as they are commonly called, found for injurious intrigues, hurtful to or edifices containing the offices of the tl.e public interest, such evils would be several secretaries of state, war, the multiplied amid a larger population. navy, and the treasury. These are large The means of dissipation and the tempand spacious, and contain apartments tations of luxury and vice are now only devoted to the officers, the numerous such as are prepared or imported for clerks, the records, &c. They stand at the occasion, and are necessarily fewer the distance of two hundred yards from and more feeble than those permanently the president's house-two on the east, established on a far broader scale in a and two on the west. metropolis. The small size of the city, The Treasury Building has been re- and the sparseness of the neighboring cently re-erected, the former one having population, still are, and long must be, been accidentally burned a few years too insignificant to overawe congress in ago. It makes a very striking appear- their deliberations; and there is at presance, presenting a Grecian front, with a ent no local interest strong enough to splendid portico four hundred and fifty- exercise any powerful influence on their seven feet in length. decisions. The other three buildings are of brick, The Congressional Burying- Ground.and each one hundred and sixty feet in The cemetery appropriated to the interlength, fifty-five in breadth, and two sto- ment of deceased members of congress, rieshigh. Abroadpassage runs through situated a mile east of the capitol, is the middle, with numerous apartments laid out with taste, adorned with trees on each side; and in the centre is the and shrubbery, and contains a number staircase, which is of large dimensions. of appropriate monuments. The design The porticoes are ornamented with six of a new city cemetery has been formed. Ionic columns. The grounds surround- It is anticipated that the price of the ing the buildings are planted with trees lots will be so low as to permit every and shrubbery. family to own one, and the distance not Every part of these edifices bears in- being so far as to prevent those visiting dications of the laborious business which it that do not own carriages. Indeed, is carried on. The clerks are generally it was intended to be so located as to men of intelligence, and many of them serve the interests of all-so that he of education, as most of the offices re- who walks through necessity, as well quire ability, system, and industry. Such as he who rides, may find it an agreeis the importance of that acquaintance able and convenient place of resortwith many of the offices, which is to be not too far for the poor, nor too near for acquired only by experience, that many the rich. In what direction the city will of them have long been retained by in- enlarge itself, it is now impossible to dividuals, amid the frequent changes say. If the most remote dell was taken made by the fluctuations of opinions in for the purpose, no one can tell how the country. public it might become in a few years. The State Department, Washington. i._..._ __ 292 DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. _ _~_ _, The Smithsonian Institution, at Washington. The Smsithsonian Institution has a no- barracks, the armory, and two large ble endowment, and is devoted to the pro- ship-houses. in which shi ps-of-war of motion of science in its various branches. different classes are constructed. The funds bequeathed for its foundation Capture of Washington by the British~ having lain for a number of years, acca- in 1814.-The better to provide fo)r the mulating in value, and congress having (defence of Washington and the neighorganized it in 1846, it ha4 commenced boring country, so much threatened by operations with flattering prospects. A the enemy's fleet, a new military district large edifice has b)een erected, valuable was formed itn the summer of 1814, collections have been begun, and the making the tenth district in number, and services of active officerls engaged; so embracing Maryland, the district of Cothat under the supervision of the govern- lumbia, and a part of Virginia. The ment, and with alhutidant pecuniary president, on the 4th of July, 1814, made means at its disposal, it will doubtless a requisition on the governors of those afford important aid to the sciences in states for ninety-three thousand militia, time to come. fifteen thousand of whom were to be Columnbian College was incorporated raised within the limits of the new miiiin the year 1821. The buildings occu- tary district. One thousand regular py an elevation north of the president's ttoops were added, and the whole force house, and a medical department is at- placed under the command of General tached to the institution. The libraries Winder. contain upward of four thousand volumes. But the news was received, about a The Navyyard contains twenty-seven fortnight after the requisition had been acres of ground, three quarters of a made, that the British had landed at mile southeast of the capitol, with ranges Benedict. At that time only three thouof stores, shops, dwellings for officers, sand men had been collected. and these DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF-COLUMBIA. 293 were, of course, of the most raw and un- ornaments of the city, and after a short disciplined description of troops. The stay, took up their march back to their enemy's fleet proceeded to invade the ships. shores of the Chesapeake in three di- The enemy evacuated Washington on visions. Admiral Cochrane proceeded the evening of August 25th, and retired up the Patuxent; General Gordon sailed to their fleet, having lost two hundred up the Potomac against Alexandria; and forty-nine, killed, at Bladensburg, and General Ross, landing at Benedict, and suffered a total loss, as is said, of marched for'Washington, along the right four hundred killed and wounded, and bank of the Patuxent, a distance oftwen- about five hundred prisoners and dety-seven miles, intending to assist Ad- serters. miral Cochrane, on his way, in destroy- Anecdotes of General Washington.ing Commodore Barney's flotilla. The following may be here introduced. On the 22d of August they appeared First, an account of the appointment of in sight of Barney, who immediately Washington to the supreme command destroyed his vessels, and fell back to of the continental army, Jilne 18, 1775 — join General Winder. The president from a private journal, narrating a conof theUnitedStates, General Armstrong, versation with John Adams, senior:secretary of war, and several other heads " The army was assembled at Camof departments, visited the camp at bridge, Massachusetts, under General Marlborough, and decided on retreating Ward, and congress was sitting at Philatoward the capital. Expecting the en- delphia. Every day new applications in emy to advance to the east branch of behalf of the army arrived. The counthe Potomac, preparations were made try were urgent that congress should for its defence; but it was discovered legalize the raising of the army; as they o:l i: e 24th that they were approaching had what must be considered, and was Bladensburg. General Stansbury with in law considered, only a mob-a band of two thousand two hundred Baltimore armed rebels. The country was placed militia, who was on his way to the camp, in circumstances of peculiar difficulty was ordered back to that point, and was and danger. The struggle had begun, soon joined by General Winder and the and yet everything was without order. main body. The president and heads The great trial now seemed to be in of departments were present when the this question, Who shall be the combattle commenced, but they soon left the mander-in-chief? It was exceedingly field, to secure the important documents important, and was felt to be the hinge in their offices, and hastened to Wash- on which the contest might turn for or ington. against us. The southern and the midThe enemy met a spirited resistance, die states, warm and rapid in their zeal, and had indeed a sharp contest to main- were for the most part jealous of New tain, while crossing the bridge, where England, because they felt that the real their column was swept by the cannon of physical force was there. What then Commodore Barney from the redoubts, was to be done? All New England and while pressing up the successive adored General Ward: he had been in swells crossed by the road. The thick the French war, and went out laden with forest on both sides was penetrated with laurels. He was a scholar and a statesdifficulty, even in face of the small force man. Every qualification seemed to opposed to them. Before long, however, cluster in him; and it was confidently the militia broke and fled in disorder; believed that the army could not receive Corn. Barney was wounded and made any appointment over him. What then prisoner, and the day was decided. was to be done? Difficulties thickened The British army lost no time in ad- at every step. The struggle was to be vancing to Washington, where they met long and bloody. Without union, all with no serious opposition; and there was lost. The country, and the whole they set fire to the capitol and other country, must come in. One pulsation 1 public buildings, mutilated some of the must beat through all hearts. The cause 294 DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. was one, and the army must be one. tions he had prepared, all aiming at the The members had talked, debated, con- adoption of the army. He was ready sidered, and guessed, and yet the de- to own the army, appoint a commander, cisive step had not been taken. At vote supplies, and proceed to business. length Mr. Adams came to his conclu- After his speech had been finished, some sion. The means of resolving it were objected, and some feared. His warmth somewhat singular, and nearly as fol- increased with the occasion, and to all lows: he was walking one morning be- these doubts and hesitations he replied fore Congress hall, apparently in deep thus:thought, when his cousin Samuel Adams "'Gentlemen, if this ongress will came up to him and said:- not adopt this army before ten moons ",' What is the topic with you this have set, New England will adopt it, and morning' she will undertake the struggle alone"'Oh, the army, the army,' he re- yes, with a strong arm and a clean conplied.'I'm determined to go into the science, she will front the foe singlehall, this moining, and enter on a full handed.' detail of the state of the colonies, in or- " This had the desired effect. They der to show an absolute need of taking saw New England was neither playing some decisive steps. My whole aim nor to be played with, and they agreed will be, to induce congress to appoint a to appoint a day. A day was fixed: it day for adopting the army as the legal came: Mr. Adams went in, took the army of these united colonies of North floor, urged the measure, and after some America, and then to hint at my election debate it passed. of a commander-in-chief.' " The next thing was to get a com"' Well,' said Samuel Adams,' I like mander for this army, with supplies, &c. that, cousin John; but on whom have All looked to Mr. Adams on the occayou fixed as that commander?' sion, and he was ready. He then took "'I will tell you-George Washing- the floor, and went into a minute delinton, of Virginia, a member of this house.' eation of the character of General Ward, "' Oh,' replied Samuel Adams, quick- bestowing on him the encomiums which ly,'that will never do-never.' then belonged to no one else. At the "' It must do-it shall do,' said John, end of the eulogy, he said:'But this is'and for these reasons: the southern and not the man I have chosen.' He then middle states are both to enter heartily went into the delineation of the characin the cause, and their arguments are po- ter of a commander-in-chief, such as was tent: they say that New England holds required by the peculiar situation of the the physical power in her hands, and colonies at that juncture. And after he they fear the result. A New England had presented the qualifications in his army, a New England commander, with strongest language, and given the reaNew England perseverance, all united, sons for the nomination he was about to appal them. For this cause they hang make, he said:back. Now, the only course is to allay "'Gentlemen, I know these qualificatheir fears, and give them nothing to tions are high, but we all know they are complain of; and this can be done in no needful, at this crisis, in this chief. Does other way but by appointing a south- any one say they are not to be obtained l ern chief over this force, and then all in this country? In reply, I have to rush to the standard. The policy will say they are; they reside in one of our blend us in one mass, and that mass will own body, and he is the person whom I be resistless.' now nominate-GEORGE WASHINGTON, " At this Samuel Adams seemed to OF VIRGINIA.' be greatly moved. They talked over "Washington, who sat on Mr. Adams' the preliminary circumstances, and John right hand, was looking him intently in asked his cousin to second the motion. the face, to watch the name he was Mr. Adams went in, took the floor, and about to announce, and, not expecting put forth all his strength in the delinea- I it would be his, sprang from his seat the DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 295 minute he heard it, and rushed into an I stood so near I might have touched adjoining room. Mr. Adams had asked his clothes; but I should as soon have his cousin Samuel to ask for an adjourn- thought of touching an electric battery. ment as soon as the nomination was I was penetrated with a veneration, made, in order to give the members time amounting to the deepest awe. Nor l to a-liberate-and the result is before was this the feeling of a schoolboy only; I the world. it pervaded, I believe, every human be"I asked Mr. Adams, among other ing that approached Washington; and questions, the following:- I have been told, that, even in his social "' Did you ever doubt of the success and convivial hours, this feeling in those of the conflict' who were honored to share them, never "' No, no,' said he,'not for a mo- suffered intermission. I saw him a hunment. I expected to be hung and quar- dred times afterward, but never with any tered, if I was caught; but no matter other than that same feeling. for that-my country would be free; I "The Almighty, who raised up for knew George the Third could not forge our hour of need a man so peculiarly chains long enough and strong enough prepared for its whole dread responsito reach around these United States.' " bility, seems to have put an impress of In the early days of the republic, it sacredness upon his own instrument. was customary for the president to meet The first sight of the man struck the the two houses of congress, on their heart with involuntary homage, and preassembling, and make them a speech, pared everything around him to obey. instead of sending in a formal, careful- VWhen he' addressed himself to speak,' ly-written message as now. Various there was an unconscious suspension of reasons conspired to bring about the the breath, while every eye was raised change-reasons of convenience which in expectation. At the time I speak of, will occur on reflection to every mind, he stood in profound silence, and had and which it is needless now to specify. that statue-like air which mental greatWe allude to the matter as necessary nbss alone can bestow. As he turned to a better understanding of the extract to enter the building, and was ascending below. This extract is taken from a the staircase leading to the congressionlong and very interesting communica- al hall, I glided in, unperceived, almost tion in the National Intelligencer, the under cover of the skirts of his dress, anniversary of Washington's birthday. and entered instantly after him into the The writer describes Washington as he lobby of the house, which was of course saw him at the opening of congress in in session to receive him. On either Philadelphia. hand, from the entrance, stood a large "I stood on a stone platform, before cast-iron stove; and, resolved to secure the door of the hall, elevated by a few the unhoped-for privilege I had so unsteps from the pavement, when the car- expectedly obtained, I clambered, boyriage of the president drew up. It was like, on this stove —fortunately then not white, or rather of a light cream-color, I much heated-and, from that favorable painted on the panels with beautiful elevation, enjoyed for the first time (wvhat groups, by Cipriani, representing the I have since so many thousands of times four seasons. The horses, according to witnessed with comparative indifference) my recollection, were white, in unison an uninterrupted view of the American with the carriage. As he alighted, and, congress in full session, every member ascending the steps, paused upon the in his place. Shall I be pardoned for platform, looking over his shoulder, in saying its aspect was very different from an attitude that would have furnished what we now witness. There was an an admirable subject for the pencil, he air of decorum, of composure, of reflecwas preceded by two gentlemen bear- tion, of gentlemanly and polished diging long white wands, who kept back nity, which has fled, or lingers with here the crowd that pressed on every side and there a'relic of the olden time.' to get a nearer view. At that moment "The house seemed then as com 296 DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. posed as the senate now is, when an of the richest black velvet, with diamond impressive speech is in the act of de- knee-buckles, and square silver buckles livery. On Washington's entrance the set upon shoes japanned with the most most profound and death-like stillness scrupulous neatness, black silk stockprevailed. House, lobbies, gallery, all ings, his shirt ruffled at the breast and were wrapped in the deepest attention; wrist, a light dress sword, his hair proand the souls of that entire assemblage fusely powdered, fully dressed, so as to seemed pouring from their eyes on the project at the sides, and gathered behind noble figure which deliberately, and with in a silk ba:g ornamented Fwith a large an unaffected but surpassing majesty, rose of black riband. He held his cocked advanced upon the broad aisle of the hat, which had a large black cockade on hall between ranks of standing senators one side of it, in his hand, as he adand members, and slowly ascended the vanced toward the chair, and, when seatsteps leading to the speaker's chair. I ed, laid it on the table. well remember, standing at the head of "At length, thrusting his hand within the senate, the tall, square, somewhat the side of his coat, he drew forth a roll gaunt form of Mr. Jefferson-conspic- of manuscript, which he opened, and, uous from his scarlet waistcoat, bright rising, held it in his hand, while, in a blue coat, with broad bright buttons, as rich, deep, full, sonorous voice, he read well as by his quick and penetrating air, his opening address to congress. His and high-boned Scottish cast of features. enunciation was deliberate, justly emThere, too, stood General KnQx-then phasized, very distinct, and accompanied secretary of war-in all the sleek ro- with an air of deep solemnity, as being tundity of his low stature, with a bold the utterance of a mind profoundly imand florid face, open, firm, and manly in pressed with the dignity of the act in its expression. But I recollect that my which it was occupied, conscious of the boyish eye was caught by the appear- whole responsibility of its position and ance of De Yrujo, the Spanish ambas- action, but not oppressed by it. There sador. He stood in the rear of the was ever about the man something which chair, a little on one side, covered with impressed the observer with a convica splendid diplomatic dress, decorated tion, that he was exactly and fully equal with orders, and carrying under his arm with what he had to do. He was never an immense chapeau bras, edged with hurried, never negligent; but seemed white ostrich feathers. He was a man ever prepared for the occasion, be it totally different in his air and manner what it might. If I could express his from all around him, and the very an- character in one word, it would be aptipode especially of the MAN on whom propriateness. In his study, in his parall eyes but his seemed fixed as by a ]or, at a levee, before congress, at the spell. I saw many other very striking head of the army, he seemed to be just figures grouped about and behind the what the situation required him to be. speaker's chair, but I did not know their He possessed, in a degree never equalled names, and had no one to ask; besides, by any human being I ever saw, the I dared not open my lips. strongest and most ever-present sense " The president, having seated him- of propriety. It never forsook him, and self, remained in silence, serenely con- deeply and involuntarily impressed ittemplating the legislature before him, self upon every beholder. whose members now resumed their seats, " His address was of moderate length; waiting for the speech. No house of the topics I have, of course, forgotten; worship, in the most solemn pauses of indeed, I was not of an age to appreciate devotion, was ever more profoundly still them; but the air, the manner, the tone, than was that large and crowded cham- have never left my mental vision, and ber. even now seem to vibrate on my ear. "Washington was dressed precisely "A scene like this, once beheld, though as Stuart has painted him in Lord Lans- in earliest youth, is never to be forgotdown's full-length portrait-in a full suit ten. It must be now fifty years ago; DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 297 but I could this moment sit down and siding over the jarring elements of his sketch the chamber, the assembly, and political council, alike deaf to the storms the Man. of all extremes; or directing the forma"Having closed the reading, he laid tion of a new government for a great down the scroll, and, after a brief pause, people, the first time that so vast an i retired as he had entered; when the experiment had ever been tried by man; manuscript was handed, for a second or finally retiring from the supreme reading, to Mr. Beckley, then clerk of power to which his virtues had raised the house, whose gentlemanly manner, him over the nation he had created, and clear and silver voice, and sharp articu- whose destinies he. had guided as long lation, I shall ever associate with the as his aid was required-retiring with scene. the veneration of all parties, of all na"When shall we again behold such tions, o' all mankind, in order that the a congress and such a president." rights of man might be conserved, and The following beautiful eulogy on that his example never might be apWashington, by Lord Brougham, may pealed to by vulgar tyrants. This is the with propriety be introduced in this consummate glory of the great Ameriplace:- can-a triumphant warrior where the "With none of that brilliant genius Ymost successful had a right to despair; which dazzles ordinary minds; with not a successful ruler in all the difficulties even any remarkable quickness of ap- of a course wholly untried; but a warprehension; with knowledge less than rior whose sword only left its sheath almost all persons in the middle ranks, when the first law of our natllre comand many well educated of the humbler manded it to be drawn; and a ruler who, classes, possess-this eminent person having tasted of supreme power, gently is presented to our observation clothed and unostentatiousiy desired that the cup in attributes as modest, as unpretend- might pass from him, nor would suffer ing, as little calculated to strike or to more to wet his lips than the most solastonish, as if he had passed unknown emn and sacred duty to his country and through some secluded region of private his God required! life. But he had a judgment sure and "To his latest breath did this great sound; a steadiness of mind which never patriot maintain the noble character of suffered any passion, or even any feel- a captain the patron of peace, and a ing to ruffle its calm; a strength of un- statesman the friend ofjustice. Dying, derstanding which worked rather than he bequeathed to his heirs the sword forced its way through obstacles, re- which he had worn in the war of liberty, moving or avoidingl rather than over- charging them'never to take it from leaping them. His courage, whether in the scabbard but in self defence, or in battle or in council, was as perfect as defence of their country and her freemight be expected from this pure and dom; and commanding them, that when steady temper of soul. A perfectly just it should thus be drawn, they should man, with a thoroughly firm resolution never sheath it nor ever g-ve it up, but never to be misled by others, any mnore prefer falliing wi, h it in their hands to than by Dthers overawed; never to be the relinquishment thereof'-words, the seduced or betrayed, or hurried away simple eloquence and majesty of which by his own weakness or self-delusions, are not surpassed in the oratory of any more than by other men's arts; nor Athens and Rome. even to be disheartened by the most "It will be the duty of the historian complicated difficulties, any more than and sage in all ages to omit no occasion spoiled on the giddy heights of fortune- of commemorating this illustrious man; such was this great man: whether we and until time shall be no more, will a regard him sustaining alone the whole test of the progress which our race has weight of campaigns, all but desperate, made in wisdom and in virtue, be deor gloriously terminating a just warfare rived from the veneration paid to the by his resources and his courage; pre- immortal name of Washingtoni!" 298 DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. Character of Debates in Congress.- lytes are to be made, and who are either The following is from a letter by a late to be brought over to the principles English traveller:- which the orator maintains, or retailned "I have frequently visited the halls in the errors which he supports. An of the national legislature, since my ar- angel's tongue could not move the porival here, for the purpose of becoming litical partizan from the course his conacquainted with the operations of the stituents expect him to pursue, and the government, and of listening to the elo- contest between the orators on both sides quence which is sometimes to be heard in congress is a mere intellectual gladwithin them. It strikes me that there iatorial combat, without any other puris a considerable difference between the pose there than to exhibit their respeceloquence of the British parliament and tive powers of eloquence, and call tothat of the American congress. In the gether a numerous audience to listen to latter, they only are distinguished and them. Members of the legal profession have influence who handle the subject are very numerous in both houses of under discussion with ability-grasp it congress. Few of any other profession comprehensively-are familiar with all obtain the honor of a seat in that assemits bearings-bring to it a mind con- bly, and of course most of them are versant with all its details, and cast upon speakers, if not what may be called orait a concentrated blaze of light. In par- tors. In congress, as well as in parlialiament, such a speaker would not be ment, there are many very common men regarded as the most effective, or carry both as to education and talents-in so his point so easily, as one who avoids large an assembly, and chosen as they the real merits of the question, plays are, that must be expected. Even among upon the outskirts of the subject, retorts the educated and talented, there will with brilliancy, and detects and exposes often be some decidedly superior to the the inconsistencies of his opponent. In rest. In the senate of the United States congress, however, on all questions in this is strikingly exemplified. I do not which party considerations are involved, hazard much in saying, that there is not uo speaker, whatever may be the power to be found at this time an equal body of his intellect, the extent of his know- of men of higher intellectual powers, or ledge, the flow of his diction, or the greater general intelligence. I have bebeauty of his elocution, will carry a sin- come personally acquainted with most of gle vote beyond the limit of the party them-witnessed their battles of mind, to which he belongs, or the principles and listened to their eloquence; and I or doctrines supported by those who am satisfied that it would be impossible elect him. Almost every member of to surpass them." both branches of the legislature either THE PROSPECTS OF WASHINGTON.speaks, or is expected to speak; but On the completion of the Chesapeake wo him who shall have the hardy inde- and Ohio canal, the cities of this district pendence to yield to the influence of are destined to a rapid augmentation in truth, or be swayed by the power of population and wealth. Few persons eloquence, and shall dare to throw aside but those who have resided here, know the reins of party, and think and act for of the immense resources of this locality. himself. He knows that his fate would The water-power of the Potomac and be at once sealed, and his political ca- its branches is immense, sufficient to reer closed, perhaps for ever. If a mem- turn hundreds of mills, and the agriculber of the senate, the legislature of the tural advantages in the immediate vicinstate which elects him would, in all ity are superior, or at least equal to, probability, recommend him to resign; those of any other section of the counand if a representative, his constituents try. From the coal-mines in Cumberwould send another in his place. The I land and its vicinity alone, large fortunes eloquence which is employed, therefore, can easily be realized. The supply is not intended so much for this arena of that useful, that necessary article to as for the people among whom prose- comfort and enterprise, in its quantity, DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COf.UMBIA. 299 - I has exceeded alike belief and calcula- four miles west. From that spot the eye tion. The Union can be for a long time embraces a wide and beautiful scene: furnished with the sole products of these the broad, shining surface of the Potomines. mac, from where it emerges from beAn investment of capital here by the tween the high and rocky banks which enterprising citizens of the north, would confine its channel above Georgetown, be sure of rapid and abundant returns. to where it begins to spread out in front It is incredible that the attention of the of that city, and where, divided by the sagacious capitalists of New England gently-sloping lawns of Mason's island, and New York should not, ere this, have it extends on one side along the Virginia been directed to this quarter. shore, and widening on the other, apThe anticipations of General Wash- pears to wash the foundations of the ington may yet be realized. It is said, president's house as it skirts alongWashthat in the papers of that illustrious man ington, and, passing by the point where has been found a calculation of what was erected the longest, if not the last, would be the value of the Mount Vernon bridge that can ever be thrown across estate, when Alexandria should assume it, passes on to Greenleaf's point, where that importance in the rank of commer- it receives the waters of its western cial cities which her happy position in- branch. These together form a spatended. cious bay, the northeastern extremity of The completion of the canal will be which is occupied by the United States consummated in little more than a year. navyyard, while a canal crosses the low Its resumed continuation will, of itself, cape which separates them. Further give a great impetus to all kinds of en- down the Potomac is seen a part of its terprise, and additional value to real broad course, almost to the spot where estate, in the cities and country at and it receives'a sad and noble gloom from near its terminus; and it is confidently the overhanging precipices of Mount anticipated that the metropolis will yet Vernon. attain to eminence among wealthy and, Roll softly, Potomac! thou wearest away populous cities. The shore that he trod, and the dust where he lay." The Cumberland Road.-This grand At a spot on the shore of this stream, work, which long engaged the solici- at the foot of the falls, a little above tude of congress, and was constructed Georgetown, at a convenient landingand kept in repairs at great expense place for boats, tradition reports that from the national treasury, has its com- General Braddock debarked with his mencement at Washington, and extends troops, when proceeding on his fatal thence through Fredericksburg (Mary- expedition against Fort Du Quesne, in land), and through a considerable portion the French war. The place formerly of Virginia. It is broad, ascends and de- bore the name of " Braddock's landscends the hills and mountains by easy ing," and is interesting from its assoc agrades, and, whenever the soil and cir- tion with the history of the country at cumstances are favorable, offers a smooth that melancholy period, and with the and hard surface. It has proved of great early life of General Washington, who value to the regions through which it so highly distinguished himself in the passes, and is a monument to the skill unfortunate catastrophe which terminof American road-makers, as well as to ated the expedition. the liberality of congress toward a por- The wild, picturesque scenery which tion of the country, although a later con- marks this part of the course of the struction of the constitution has put an Potomac, and to which we have before end to the appropriation of money to referred, bears marks of the violence works of such a nature. with which the current pours by in the One of the finest views of Washing- season of floods. Evidence of its ravton, Georgetown, and the surrounding ages may often be noticed by the pasland an(l water, is found at an elevated senger, who will not be surprised that point of the Cumberland road, three or even the chain bridge, constructed with !300 DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. so much caution, solidity, and skill, The "Surrender at Yorktown:" in proved insufficient to avoid or to resist this picture, the American army, with its impetuosity. During a high flood, the French allies, is presented drawn about five years ago, it was swept away, up in two parallel lines-seen in perthe piers receiving so much injury as to spective in the fields of Yorktown-and discourage its restoration. the head of the British column is marchAmong the numerous objects in WVash- ing between them toward the spectator: ington worthy of particular attention, presenting accurate and spirited pormost of which have been alluded to in a traits of many of the distinguished men passing manner, are several of the paint- of the day belonging to the three great ings and sculptures which adorn the nations represented. The splendor of rotunda of the capitol. military costume is beautifillly harmonThe " Declaration of Independence" ized with the pacific aspect of the scene, presents a grave, deliberative assembly and the pleasing anticipations which it (the old congress), at an instant when a was well calculated to excite. scene of the highest importance and the "General TVaskington resigning his greatest results was performing. The Commission," the closing picture of this select committee, appointed to draw up invaluable series, gives a view of the a statement of rights and injuries, are old hall occupied by congress at that in the act of presenting their report, period (in Annapolis, Maryland); and the which was the original of the document illustrious hero of the piece is placed since so celebrated throughout the world in a dignified attitude, well correspondas the "Declaration of Independence." ing with his character and the nature John Hancock is seated in the chair of of the scene. On- of the most interestthe speaker, and the members are ranged ing individuals introduced among the at their desks; while Thomas Jefferson, spectators is Lady WVashington, accomJohn Adams, and Benjamin Franklin panied by several members of the family (the committee), in the foreground, are and friends. presenting the report to Hancock. All Four other scenes connected with the personages present are represented the revolution were painted by Colonel by portraits for which they sat —many Trumbull, which were not chosen by of them to the artist himself. A few congress, although not on account of exceptions, however, are to be made- their want of interest or value. those who were dead before he began The " Battle of Bunker's IIill," the his task, and who left no portraits be- first in the series of historical pictures, hind them. The hall, which is still pre- represents the instant when the British served in its original condition (in the troops, with some of their officers at old statehouse in Philadelphia), is ac- their head, were making their last and curately given in the picture. successful assault upon the height whoso The "Surrender of Burgoyne:" here name was rendered so famous by the the British forces, who surrender after events of that day. General TVarren has the battles of Saratoga, are seen march- just fallen, and Putnam is seen pressing ing out of camp, after stacking their from behind toward the front, sword in arms, on a small plain on the Hudson, to hand; while the mingling of Americans, which they had retreated. The Ameri- some of them in their simple workingcan staff occupy a conspicuous position; dresses, with the splendid uniforms of and the whole effect, increasedby the pic- their enemies —the combinations and( turesque scenery of the spot, is striking contrasts of figures and groups, many of and highly agreeable. Some of the them in costumes and with forms and American troops, occupying neighbor- features copied fiom life, by an artist ing eminences, had convinced the de- who was a contemporary and a fellowfeated invaders that further retreat was soldier-together with the importance impossible; and the event thus recorded and the animated action of the scene, marks one of the most important periods give this fine picture an interest of a of the revolutionary war. superior kind, and impress the feelings DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 301 of the spectator in a degree which it The Nunnery, or convent of the Visitwould be difficult to express. ation, is at a short distance from the The " Battle of Princeton," a scene college. It was founded in 1798, and I of a like character, and painted in a sim- contains sixty or seventy nuns, some of ilar spirit by the same accomplished and whom are employed in the female school faithful hand, exhibits the fall of General attached to the institution. Mercer, in full view of the venerable in- Chain-Bridge across the Potomac.stitution of learning, Nassau hall, around Two miles above Geoigetown, in the and even within which lay the scene of midst of the wild and romantic scenery that day's sanguinary struggle. A Brit- which there marks the borders of the ish grenadier, in the brilliant dress of stream, a light bridge, constructed of his corps, is in the act of thrusting his wire, was thrown across the channel, a bayonet into the body of the gallant few years ago. Two heavy abutments officer, but is restrained by a timely of stone were built on the banks, narhand. Here, also, the mingling of sol- rowing the bed of the stream as far as diers of the two armies, in various atti- seemed judicious, and at their extremiH tudes and all in energetic action, pro- ties were raised columns strong enough duces a similar excitement of the mind; to sustain the iron supporters. Dependwhile the consciousness that most of the ing fiom the latter, strong wires were principal personages are represented by extended down to the horizontal mass true portraits, adds inestimable value to of woven wire, which formed the main this, no less than to the other pictures part of the bridge, and on which the of the Trumbull series. floor was laid; and the whole fabric, GEORGETOWN.-This is a town and when completed, presented the neat and port of entry of considerable trade, situ- light appearance of the drawing. ated west of Washington, from which it This spot is ten miles below the Great is separated by Rock creek, over which falls of the Potomac, where the stream are two bridges, affording, a convenient is pressed through a passage only one connexion between the two cities, the hundred yards in width, and falls thirty centres of which are about two miles or forty feet into a rocky basin. Pasapart. sing on nearly four miles, it reaches the The ground on which the town stands head of the Little falls, or rapids, the is irregular, and rises to a considerable descent of which is much more gradual, height above the Potomac, on which over broken rocks and a channel rather the city fronts. The scenery around rapidly descending all the way to tides is varied and pleasant, and on the west water: about thirty-five feet in all. stand the picturesque and rocky hills, Several wooden bridges had been which here begin to change the aspect erected across the Potomac, in this part of the river's banks. The falls are soon of its course, which had been torn away discovered, by following up the narrow by the ice or the current in the violent gorge through which the stream winds, annual floods; and the wire bridge was and through which proceeds the Poto- adopted with the expectation that it mac canal, the largest work of the kind would prove more durable. The nature in Virginia, or in any of the southern of the valley through which the Potomac states. flows, renders the rising of the water, at The C'annon Foundry is situated in a certain seasons, remarkably great and secluded valley of these hills, and on the sudden; and the force of the current at summit of them stands this place, especially when loaded with TAe Roman Catholic College.-There i floating ice, is quite irresistible. Piers are two large buildings belonging to it, can not be expected to stand long in the and it has a president, fourteen profes- bed of the river, however solid and firm; sors, about one hundred and forty stu- and the only safe alternative was to exdents, and twenty-five thousand volumes tend a light bridge fiom shore to shore, in its library. The commencement is without venturing to seek support in the held in July. middle. L -- -------— lj~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ i302 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. l l -— F ~l- e i IIRGINM __3MWX1~~~~ P\THIS state is bounded north by i _,_<=< 2, J_-A== f Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Maryland; =__ f south by North Carolina and a small - --- p~art of Tennessee; and west by Ken___ ____ \ tucky and Ohio. The soutlern boun-I 50 )~~~. =d ~~"~ —~ 1 dary alone is a straight line, run(I ___~_ -~ ~ —-~',;I~'~:~ l q] ning bn a parallel of north latitude, I, X:_~~ k~~..~ AS~ A'nearly coinciding with the boundary almost to its western terminationthat is, to the Tennessee river. The northwestern boundary is formed by Ohio river, which is followed up to where it crosses the western line of Pennsylvania, giving to Virginia a long and narrow gore of land, which separates I Ohio and Pennsylvania, for a considerable distance, in a singular manner. The northeastern boundary is formed by the Potomac, whose tortuous course gives it ani irregular outline. ii The state is crossed by the ridges of the Allegany mountains, friom southwest c northeast, which give it a considerable diversity of' climate, soil, and productions, and in which the principal rivers have their sources. Virginia embraces a larger territory than any other of the old states, and is remarkable for the varieties of surface and climate which it contains. The Allegany mountains mark out one of the four natural divisions of the territory. Next east of this lies the hilly region, beyond which is sea-alluvion. The fourth section is a peculiar feature by which this state is distinguished from Maryland and North Carolina, which lie adjacent on the north and south. It is a broad tract, which slopes west, and is drained into the Mississippi through the Ohio, partly by the Kenhawa and othe, tributaries of that river itself, and partly, in the ____ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 303 more southern parts, by the Tennessee been procured on the Great Kenhawa, river. and salt extensively manufactured. There is a remarkable spot some dis- The Natural Bridge ovelr Cedar creek, tance southwest of the centre of the twelve miles southwest of Lexington, is state, where some of the highest sources esteemed one of the most extraordinary of several of the principal rivers of the natural curiosities in the world. The state rise within a short distance, though following is Mr. Jefferson's description, flowing in different directions: James in his Notes on Virginia:river, which empties near the southern ""It is on the ascent of a hill which extremity of Chesapeake bay; Tennes- seems to have been cloven through its l see river, which flows southwest and length by some great convulsion. The then west through the state of Tennes- fissure, just by the bridge, is by some see; and the Kenhawa, running into admeasurements two hundred and sevthe Ohio.. enty feet deep, by others only two hunThough the zones of Virginia are not dred and five. It is about forty-five feet I very distinctly marked, each part has wide at the bottom, and ninety feet at its appropriate character. The oceanic the top: this, of course, determines the section of Virginia is its tropical climate. length of the bridge, and its height fiom Latitude, exposure, and depressed level, the water; its breadth in the middle is all combine to give the Chesapeake coun- about sixty feet, but more at the ends; ties a more elevated temperature than and the thickness of the mass, at the is found in the interior. This difference summit of the arch, is about forty feet. is seen on vegetation. In the lower A part of this thickness is constituted counties cotton may be cultivated suc- by a coat of earth, which gives growth cessfully, while the uncertainty of grain to many large trees; the residue, with and meadow-grasses evinces a southern the hill on both sides, is one solid rock summer. The middle, in all the Atlan- of limestone. The arch approaches the tic states south from Pennsylvania, we semi-elliptical form; but the larger axis find to be the Arcadia of the state. Mid- of the ellipse, which would be the chord die Virginia is, however, blended with of the arch, is many times longer than the mountainous, the former containing the transverse. Though the sides of the whole or great part of the valley coun- this bridge are provided an some parts ties, Berkley, Jefferson, Frederick, Shen- with a parapet of fixed rocks, yet few andoah, Rockingham, Augusta, Rock- men have resolution to walk to them bridge, Bol3tetourt, Montgomery, ythe, and look over into t*he abyss: you inand Washington. The real mountain voluntarily fall on your miads and feet, section lies northwest firom the middle, creep to the parapet, and peep over it. and extends to the Ohio. The extreme Looking down from this height about a western part is, indeed, composed of a minute gave me a violent head-ache. If congeries of hills with alluvial bottoms, the view from the top be painful and inbut the actual mountain ridges approach tolerable, that friom below is delightful so near Ohio river, and the hills are in in an equal extreme; it is impossible for themselves so generally abrupt and lofty, the emotions arising fiom the sublime as to give an alpine appearance to the to be felt beyond what they are here: country. Taken as a whole, central so beautiful an arch, so elevated, so'Virginia has the best soil, though in the light, and springing, as it were, up to mountainous part there is much that is heaven! the rapture of the spectator is excellent. With the exception of the really indescribable! The fissure consoutheastern counties, grain and orchard tinning narrow, deep, and straight, for fiuits are highly congenial to Virginia, a considerable distance above and beand their various products are the nat- low the bridge, opens a short but very ural, actual, and we may safely say the pleasing view of the North mountain on permanent, staples of the state. Of one side, and Blue ridge on the other, metals, iron ore is abundant in the cen- at the distance, each of them, of about tral and western sections. Brine has five miles. This bridge is in the county 304 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE. OF VIRGINIA. Natiral Bridge over Cedar Creek. of Rockbridge, to which it has given his own not very easy task, of getting name, and affords a public and commo- his charge along. With all my attendious passage over a valley which can tion. I could see no precipice, and was not be crossed elsewhere for a consider- concluding to follow the road without able distance. The stream passing un- any more vagaries, when Mr. L., who der it is called Cedar creek; it is a was a little in advance, waved his whip water of James river, and sufficient in as he stood beside his horse, and said: the driest seasons to turn a gristmill,'Here is the bridge!' I then perceived though its fcuntain is not more than two that we were nearly over it, the piled miles above." rocks on either hand forming a barrier, The description of Jefferson first at- which prevents a careless eye from pertracted the attention of travellers to this ceiving the rfavine which it spans. 1 remarkable spot. Of recent descrip- turned to the side of the road, and rose tions, the best is that by Miss Martineau, in my stirrup to look over, but I found which is truly characteristic and inter- it would not do. I went on to the inn, esting, and is as follows:- deposited my horse, and returned on "At a mile from the bridge, the road foot to the bridge. turns off through a wood. While the "With all my cfforts, I could not look stage rolled and jolted along the ex- down steadily into what seermed the bottremely bad road, Mr. L. and I went pry- tomless abyss of foliage and shadow. ing about the whole area of the wood, From every point of the bridge 1 tried, poking our horses' noses into every and all in vain. I was heated and exthicket, and between any two pieces of tremely hungry, and much vexed at my rock, that we might be sure not to miss own weakness. The only way was to our object; the driver smiling after us, go down and look up; though where the whenever he could spare attention from I bottom could be was past my imagining, DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 305 the view from the top seeming to be of the ambition appropriate to the place, foliage below foliage for ever. of writing his name highest, climbed the "The way to the glen is through a rock opposite to the part selected by field opposite the inn, and down a steep, Washington, and carved his initials. rough, rocky path, which leads under Others have perhaps seen what Mr. the bridge, and a few yards beyond it. Blacklock had overlooked-that it was I think the finest view of all is from this a place easy to ascend, but from which path, just before reaching the bridge. it is impossible to come down. He was The irregular rock, spanning a chasm forty feet or more from the path; his of one hundred and sixty feet in height, footing was precarions; he was weary and from sixty to ninety in width, is with holding on while carving his name; exquisitely tinted with every shade of and his head began to swim when he gray and brown; while trees encroach saw the impossibility of getting down from the sides, and overhang from the again. He called to his companions top, between which and the arch there that his only chance was to climb up is an additional depth of fifty-six feet. upon the bridge, without hesitation or It was now early in July; the trees were delay. They saw this, and with anguish in their brightest and thickest foliage; agreed between themselves that the and the tall beeches under the arch con- chance was a very bare one. They trasted their verdure with the gray rock. cheered him, and advised him to look and received the gilding of the sunshine, neither up nor down. On he went, as it slanted into the ravine, glittering slanting upward from under the arch, in the drip fiom the arch, and in the creeping round a projection, on which r nplashing and tumbling waters of Cedar no foothold is visible firom below, and creek, which ran by our feet. Swal- then disappearing in a recess filled up lows were flying about under the arch. with foliage. Long and long they wait. What others of' their tribe can boast of ed, watching for motion, and listening such a home'l for crashing among the trees. He must "We crossed and recrossed-the creek have been now one hundred and fifty on stepping-stones, searching Out every feet above them. At length their eyes spot to which any tradition belonged. were so strained that they could see no Under the arch, thirty feet from the water, more, and they had almost lost all hope. the lower part of the letters G. W. may There was little doubt that he had fallen be seen, carved' in the rock. When while behind the trees, where his body.W ashington was a youngmanheclimbed would never be found. They went up up hither, to leave this record of his to try the chance of looking for him visit. There are other inscriptions of the firom above. They found him lying insame kind; and above them a board, on sensible on the bridge. He could just which are painted the names of two per- remember reaching the top, when he sons, who have thought it worth while immediately fainted." thus to immortalize their feat of climb- Passage thlrough the Blue Ridge.ing highest. But their glory was but The following interesting description transient, after all. They have been out- is in Jefferson's Notes on Virginia:stripped by a traveller, whose achieve- "The passage of the Potomac through ment will probably never be rivalled; the Blue ridge is one of the most stufor he would not have accomplished it pendous scenes. You stand on a very if he could, by any means, have declined high point of land; on your right comes the task. Never was a wonderful deed up the Shenandoah, having ranged along more involuntarily performed. There the foot of the mountain a hundred miles is no disparagement to the gentleman to seek a vent; on your left approaches in saying this: it is only absolving him the Potomac, in quest of a passage also; from the charge of foolhardiness. in the moment of their junction, they " This young man, named Blacklock, rush together against the mountain, rend accompanied by two fiiends, visited the it asunder, and pass off to the sea. The natural bridge; and, being seized with first glance of this scene hurries oursenses 20 306 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. into the opinion that this earth has been in one of the ridges of the Allegany created in time; that the mountains were mountains is Blowing cave, from which a formed first; that the rivers began to current of air continually issues, strong flow afterward; that in this place par- enough to prostrate the weeds at the disticularly they have been dammed up by tance of sixty feet. One of the largest the Blue ridge of mountains, and have mounds in the valley of the Ohio is in formed an ocean which filled the whole Virginia, near the Ohio, fourteen miles valley; that, continuing to rise, they below Wheeling. It is about three hunhave at length broken over at this spot, dred feet in diameter at the base, sixty and have torn the mountain down fi'om at the top, and the perpendicular height its summit to its base. The piles of is seventy feet. It contains thousands rock on each hand, but particularly on of human skeletons. the Shenandoah, the evident marks of Valley of T1irginia.-After leaving their disrupture and evulsion from their Winchester, distant from Woodstock beds by the most powerful agents of about thirty miles east or northeast, we nature, corroborate the impression. But bid farewell to everything like a railthe distant finishing which nature has road, and plunge into the midst of the given to the picture, is of a very differ- valley of Virginia. The country is unent character; it is a true contrast to dulating in its surface, of limestone forthe foreground; it is as placid and de- mation, and distinguished for its romanlightful as that is wild and tremendous; tic and beautiful scenery. Through this for the mountain being cloven asunder, valley flows the majestic Shenandoah, she presents to your eye, through the one of those rivers still bearing its ancleft, a small catch of smooth blue hori- cient Indian name, too melodious and zon, at an infinite distance in the plain expressive to be changed for a better. country, inviting you, as it were, from The Shenandoah flows on, a limpid the riot and tumult roaring around, to stream, shelving rocks, lying in strata, pass through the breach and participate being often visible on its bottom. Thus of the calm below. Here the eye ulti- the river pursues its course to Harper's mately composes itself; and that way, Ferry, where, joining its forces to the too, the road happens actually to lead. Potomac, it yields its name to that river, You cross the Potomac above the junc- and having saluted the president's mantion, pass along its side through the base sion familiarly, and the United States of the mountain for three miles, its ter- capitol at a more respectful distance, prorible precipices hanging in fiagments ceeds to bury itself in the ocean. Here over you, and, within about twenty miles, are some fine views of the Blue ridge, reach Fredericktown, and the fine coun- that famous cordon of mountains, stretchtry round that. This scene is worth a ing itself like a giant rampart across the voyage across the Atlantic; yet here, state, ascending majestically toward the as in the neighborhood of the natural sky in ambitious and impressive forms, bridge, are people who have passed their catching and deepening its serene cerulives within half a dozen miles, and have lean blue, and spreading its own ample never been to survey these monuments I shadows over the far-reaching vale beof a war between rivers and mountains, low. Here a painter's brush would find which must have shaken the earth itself strong and striking originals; the poet's to its centre." lyre would waken the sweetest music W'ier's Cave, on the northwest side among the mountain solitudes above, or of the Blue ridge, is between two and the green sequestered shades below. three thousand feet in length, and com- This, too, is the region of thriving farmprises various apartments, containing ers, of fat cattle, and fertile lands. In beautiful stalactites and incrustations, this valley there are many Germans and which display the most sparkling bril- descendants of Germans. liancy when surveyed by the light of a Twenty-five miles west of Winchester torch. Near this there is another sin- is a section or an adjunct of the Blue gularcavern,called Madison's cave; and ridge, sometimes called the Ice moun l — DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 307 tain, from a very peculiar formation of it is hardly perceptible along the ridge a subterrene, or rather a subsaxumous which divides the waters of the Mononcoat of ice, which, on turning up a stone gahela from those of the Ohio, in that on the warmest day of summer, discov- remarkable, narrow, northwest gore of ers itself with a refreshing coolness. It land before mentioned. The mean eleis, in fact, a natural and magnificent re- vation of central Virginia is eighteen frigerator. No night can be passed here hundred or two thousand feet above the without feeling the necessity of a blan- Ohio, the descent to which is by several ket. The usual place of resort in the plains or natural terraces —gradually vicinity goes by the name of "Capon i descending to the west. The climate springs." of the mountainous regions resernble, Taking the summit of the Alleganies that of the Atlantic coast, as high up as as a central point of view to overlook latitude forty three degrees. the state, we find first a wide tract of There is a remarlkable mountain-ridge adjacent country, diversified with all the from fifteen to twenty miles distant from irregularity of a mountainous region, the Blue ridge, to which it is related varying fiom rough and rocky heights, as the Blue ridge is to the Alleganies to picturesque and shady valleys, many I proper. It may be traced through Maof which are rich in mines and mineral Iryland in the Parr-spring ridge, Pennsprings, where the crowds of gay visit- sylvania (where, as in Virginia, it has no ers, mingling with invalids, enliven the distinctive name), and through New Jerpicturesque scenes with groups strongly sey in the Schooley's mountain ridge. contrasting with the wildness and soli- The counties through which the ridge tude of nature. passes in Virginia are Loudoun, FauNext eastward of this lies a section, quier, Culpepper, Orange, Albemarle, I extending to tidewater in the rivers, Nelson, Amherst, Bedford, Franklin, and which amounts to 15,383 square miles; Henry. and between that and the eastern boun- On most maps the mountains present dary is another, with its lower level and a confused mass; but they are, in fact, navigable waters, and also the sites of divided into five or six distinct ridges. the old settlements, having an area of Indeed, says Darby, "the whole state, 11,805 square miles. from the head of tidewater to Ohio river, But the western section, lying beyond is formed of a series of mountain-chains the Alleganies, is the most extensive and and intervening valleys." But the Blue flourishing. It contains 28,387 square ridge is the most prominent, stands very miles. Climate, soil, situation, and the detached, has the highest points in the origin of the people, have great influ- Appalachian chain southwest of Delaence in stamping a variety of character- ware river, and everywhere marks the istics on these different districts; for lines between counties. while the low eastern regions are warm, The interior of Virginia was almost and the soil cultivated by slaves, facilities uninhabited, even by savages, when the for navigation have raised large towns country was first known to Europeans. amid extensive plantations; in the hign- A few tribes only occupied any part of er districts, other objects and modes of its surface, and these dwelt chiefly along culture have been adopted, while slaves the tidewaters. It is capable of supare less numerous, and they often work porting a population of three millions, side by side with their masters. The even if the arable parts were as thickly relations established by the natural fea- I inhabited as some of the most populous tures of the western district cement the districts; but a combination of causes people more intimately with the Missis- has prevented the increase for some sippi valley than with those of the At- years past.* lantic borders. So great is the difference of seasons found in different parts of o* We improve this allusion to the arricultural resources of this state, to introduce in a note the following interest Virginia, that vegetation is often far ad- ino letter from a sun of Virginia, the Hon. WILLIAM C. vanced in the spring at Wheeling when 1R~lvE.s, our minister to France. It has reference to his vanced in thesprinatWheenvisit to the World's Fair at London; and some valua 308 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. Potomac River. — This noble river zen of the waters, weighing from sevenabounds with fish, the principal being ty-five to one hundred and fifty pounds. the white shad, the herring, and the stur. Every passenger up the Potomac has geon. The latter is taken in a mannel' probably seen the prodigious leaps of this said to be peculiar to this section of the fish, sometimes to the height of ten feet, country. The sturgeon is a noble deni- and his alacrity at mounting a cascade. ble practical remarks will be found in it respecting the py much the largest space in the Exkibition, and which application of science to the development of the natural have been the chief points, indeed, of popular attraction, resources of the state. It also records the success, in Eng- are objects of luxury and ornament, exceedingly costly land, of M'Cormick's reaping-machine, the invention of a in both their material and workmanship, and intended to citizen of this ancient commonwealth:- minister to the factitious wants of overgrown wealth. In the British department alone I counted not less than "PARIS, Tuesday, September 30, 1851. twenty large rooms, with the inscription in glaring capi-,"ME DEAR C: Having a week or two at my dis- tals above them of the adored'precious metals.' The posal during the last days of the summer. I determined to same general character of costly magnificence, varying go over the channel and see for myself that of which the only in the details, predominated in all the rest of the Eudescription had filled so many mouths and newspapers ropean departments, from the exquisite mosaics of Italy, for the last four or five months-the GREAT EXHIBITION, and the rich silks, and porcelains, and jewelry, of Franlce, or what the French more appropriately call it, the Expo- to the beautiful and elaborate malachites of Russia, and sition Universelle. I am not prepared to say with the was conspicuous even in the'barbaric pearl and gold' of queen of Sheba, after her inspection of the riches of Solo- the Asiatic and African contributions. mon,'The half was not told me;' but, on the contrary, " In entering into a competition of so much gorgeousmakina some deduction from the oriental extravagance ness as this, it was hardly to be expected that so young, with which this wonder of the age has been celebrated and simple, and republican a people as that of the United by both pen and tongue, I am yet free to say enough re- States, would make a very brilliant debut. I always remained to make it an object of just and rational curiosity gretted, therefore, that we entered the lists as general to all who were in circumstances to visit it. competitors. If we had gone in simply and avowedly to i" A visit to the Crystal Palace is, in truth, a sort of figu- show the nations of the Old World some of the most valurative voyage of circumnavigation, by which, within the able improvements we bad made in those manly and uselimits of a comparatively small space, and by a few days' ful arts adapted to our circumstances and vigorous youth, industrious observation. you traverse successively the va- and had contented ourselves with an allotment of space rious quarters of the globe, and spe before you the pro- proportioned to that object, we should have avoided some ductions, the arts, the riches, and in some degree the mortification. at first, to our national pride. A large space, respective national manners and customs of them all. however, was demanded in the outset for the display of And yet this is so contrived as to leave upon the mind of American contributions, which, after successive retrenchthe beholder a strong impression of the material superi- ments, remained imperfectly filled, and the effigy of the ority, if not supremacy, of one of these nations over all American eagle, in very exaggerated and colossal proporthe rest. ENGLAND has the vast advantage in the Exhi tions, was conspicuously placed above the whole.'The bition of being at home. One full half of the fairy build- Times,' the Coryphaeus of the English press. immediately ing is allotted to the display of her riches and resources, seized upon these circumstances with its accustomed beher industry and power-in which her vast tributary pos- nevolence toward the United States, taunting us with' the sessions in the East and the West (India, Canada, and the solitude in the Crystal Palace over which the American isles of the ocean), all glittering with barbaric pomp, are eagle stretched its mighty wings,' and representing' the made to revolve in due order around the central orb, daz- space we had grasped in the Exhibition' as being as'imzling by the splendor of her own accumulated and gor- perfectly occupied as our vast continent.' geous wealth. The mind is so acted upon by this studi- "In spite of these mistakes of our own, and the ill-naous display of boundless dominion, and riches, and power, tured use made of them to our disadvantage by the critics, in the hands of a single nation, that it hardly recovers from the solid and intrinsic merit of the American part of the the impression in passing through the successive depart- Exhibition finally made itself felt and appreciated by all, ments allotted to other nations; for however well filled and it is now, I think, universally admitted, even in Engmany of them are with the choicest productions of ex- land, where so many jealousies and prejudices are to be quisite taste ana superior skill, they all seem dwarfed in overcome, that, in an industrial and useful point of view, comparison with the gigantic development of England at no nation contributed more to the Exhibition than the home. In this state of exhibited inferiority, these nations United States. I am most happy to be able to say to you may legitimately take to themselves the consolation of the that nothing has had so powerful an agency in working lion prostrate beneath the man in the painting-that the out this honorable result for our national reputation as a man, and not the lion, was the painter I Virginians invention. of which you were one of the ear" If FRANCE, which originated the dea of an exhibition lie-t patrons, and which has received the highest honors of the products of the arts and industry of all nations, had at the Exhibition, and is now making a sort of triumphal been permitted by her internal condition to carry it into progress thrlough England-I mean M'Cormick's reapingexecution, and Paris instead of London had been the scene machine. It was the successful trial of this machine on of its presentation, a very great difference would, doubt- the farm of Mr. Mechi, at Tip Tree, on the 29th of July less, have been made in the relative position and appear- last-eliciting as it did the wonder and admiration of all ance. of the competing nations. In that case, the advan- who witnessed it-that commenced the reaction in favor tage of being chez soi, concurring with her ulrivalled taste of the American contributions to the Exhibition. The and artistic science, and the wonderful resources of her English people began then to think that some good thing national genius and industry, would have assigned to her might come out of our transatlantic Nazareth,' and fiom the rank of primacy which is now held by England in tile time to time they bestowed something more than a pasLondon Exhibition. Nor would the other nations have sing, supercilious glance at the American department of had reason to complain of the change of venue. The bright the Crystal Palace, and found in it other products of Amerclimate of France. and the cordial and genial temper of ican gehius and skill, which convinced them that, in this the people, so readily fraternizing with the other families age of progress and invention, stimulated to extraordinary of mankind, would have made of what has been a stern fecundity in the New World, there are not a few things and somewhat jealous encounter of rival pretensions, a they may learn with advantage of younger nations than real jub.lee of the heart and senses, marking an era in the themselves. social intercourse and happiness of nations, as well as in "Of these other achievements of American ingenuity their industrial progress. As it is, the Exhibition has I have not the time to speak. You have seen them all mainly the character of a highly successfill speculation, noticed in the newspaper reports of the Exhibition: they very sagaciously managed, on British account. have, the greater part of them undoubtedly, a very high " You will wish to know what sort of figure we of the order of merit; but I think I am not misled by a natural UNITED STATES have made in this great international con- partiality for an invention of my own state when I say gress of ind:stry and the arts. The objects which occu- that the reaping-machine has done mQst of all to redeem DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 309 It is recorded that during the revolution- hook attached to a line, and drawn with ary war, one of these enormous fish de- skill under the belly. It is remarkable scended from an aerial leap into a ferry- that this fish is good only in certain rivboat, and falling into the lap of an officer ers: those of the Delaware being thought,seated on the gunwale, broke his thigh! unfit to eat, while those of the IIHudson It is caught in the Potomac by a naked and Potomac are considered a delicacy. the honor of our country in the trying, and, to us for a modest inhabitant of the mountains of Virginia, more that time, apparently hopeless contests of the Exhibition. In three thousand miles distant, to conceive, and execute, proof of this, it is sufficient to mention the fact that it is and bring to them, what so exactly suited them, without invariably placed at the head of all the American triumphs their having been able previously to form a distinct conin the various notices of the exhibition which have been ception either of its nature or its practicability. What from time to time published by the European press. I renders this the more extraordinary (and it is a circumhave now before me the leading article of' The Times' of stance which greatly enhances both the merit and the glory the 2d instant-the first number of that journal which ac- of the American invention) is, that the minds of the most knowledged the substantial success of the American part ingenious mechanicians in Great Britain had been earnestof the Exhibition-in which that success and the reaping- ly directed to the same object, for the catalogue of the machine, which so much contributed to it, are thus no- Exhibition registers no less than eight different but very ticed:- imperfect essays toward its accomplishment. My own "' On the other hand, it is beyond all denial that every observation least year at the annual meeting of the Royal practical success of the season belongs to the Americans. Agricultural Society of England, convinced me that a good Their consignments showed poorly at first, but came out reaping-machine was the great desideratum in British ag1 well upon trial Their reaping-machine has carried con- riculture. In the immense and almost infinitely diversiviction to the heart of the British agriculturist. Their re- fied collection of agricultural implements displayed there, volvers threaten to revolutionize military tactics as com- no instrument of that kind was seen; and yet it was evipletely as the original discovery of gunpowder. Their dent that, in a climate so humid and uncertain, scme ac. yacht takes a class to itself.' celerated and at the same time economical process of get"And again. in an article of the same journal of the 27th ting in their harvest was a matter of the highest imporinstant, reviewing the general result of the Exhibition, are tance. I immediately wrote to our friend C. J. Meriwether the following remarks:- (as he will doubtless recollect), that if the Virginia reaper "' One point that strikes us forcibly on a survey of the were sent out to the Great Exhibition of the next year, last few months is, the extraordiary contrast which the for which the arrangements were then commencing, it attractive and the useful features of the display present. would make the fortune of its inventor. It has not only It will be remembered that the American department was, done this, but it has reaped a harvest of honor and renown at first, regarded as the poorest and least interesting of all for himsellf his native state, and the reputation of American foreign countries. Of late it has justly assumed a position genius in general, which is a result ftr more to be prized. of the first importance, as having brought to the aid of our " With this encouraging example before us, are we not distressed agriculturists a machine which, if it realizes the strongly invited to some change in the direction which anticipations of competent judges. will amply remunerate has been heretofore so exclusively given to the youthful England for all her outlay connected with the Great Exhi- talent of our state. As soon as our young men leave colbition. The reaping-machine from the United States is lege, they crowd by hundreds into what are called the the most valuable contribution from abroad to the stock learned professions, which are already filled to repieiion; of our previous knowledge that we have yet discovered, or they devote themselves to a still more steorle and unand several facts in connection with it are not a little re- profitable employment of their faculties, for Lboth themmarkable.' selves and the country, in mere party politics. if the "It has been a source of patriotic and I trust legitimate same amount of mind and energy were applied to those pride to me, as a Virginian, that an invention emanating useful practical pursuits in which science is the auxiliary from my own state, and I may say from my own neigh- of art in indefinitely multiplying the results of labor, and borhood indeed, has done so much to procure honor to unfolding the latent capabilities of nature, what a magical the American name abroad, and to vindicate the claims of change would soon be manifested in the prosperity and American genius and enterprise to the respect and grati- power of our ancient commonwealth-rich, as all admit tude of other nations. In these feelings you and your her to be, in every element of moral, intellectual, and mafriends around you., who know so well both the invention terial wealth I and the inventor, will. I am sure, largely share. I can not "In reflecting upon this subject, as I often do with a describe to you the feelings of home delight, not unmixed solicitude ever alive to the honor and destinies of my with triumph, with which, on one of the days that I at- native state, I have thought that some modification of tended the Exhibition, I saw the Virgi.:"a Grain-Reaper' the systems of education pursued in most of our public (for by that name I'Cormick himself entered his machine schools would greatly contribute, and is perhaps indison the official catalogue of the Exhibition) as much sur- pensable, to introduce the change which appears so desirounded by curious and interested p.cct.atora as tqe price- rable in the active direction of our mental resources. less Indian diamond-the Kobhi-noor. or Mountain of Light Could not that education be made more practical, without -which usually attracts the la-rget n;. most eager crowds. abating anything from the high standard of science and It is in the country, however, when it is at work, sweep- learning which should characterize it, simply by giving ing with ease over its fifteen or twenty acres of thick- more development to the applications of science to the vastanding wheat a day, that it excites the sti oiJgesa enthu- rious branches of industry and art, as is done in the admisiasm, as it achieves its greatest triumphs. On some of rable institutions of this country, the Ecole lTolytechnique, these occasions as many as fifteen hundred or two thou- the Ecole des Pomlts et Chaussges, the Ecole des Mfines, and sand persons have been assembled to witness its perform- the Ecole Centrale des Arts et Mianufactures, from which ance; and they have cheered it with loud and hearty plau- England, with her usual sagacity, has taken a hint in the dits, when it has finished a row or turned a corner of the establishment of her' Government School of' Mines and field, as if it were some great living hero or conqueror. Science applied to the Arts,' not being able to engraft M'Cormick himself has been fated; and when in acknowl- these new studies upon the ancient and chartered systems edging a toast, with true Washingtonian modesty and of her universities. WVhether the object is to be accomSpartan brevity, he said he was'more accustomed to plished with us by some modification in existing institu. working than speaking, and preferred always that his ma- tions, or by the establishment of new and special instituchine should speak for itself,' he brought down as thun- tions, is a question on which I am not prepared to pro. dering applause as ever greeted an orator in the house of nounce an opinion. Those who are more competent than commons. myself, recognising the utility of the end. will, I trust. "Everybody in England now wonders that a machine devise the proper means, and my prayers will be for the at once so simple and so effective, and so precisely adapted success of whatever they shall adopt, as they ever are for to the wants of British agriculture, should nevrer have the happiness and prosperity, in all things, of my native been invented and brought to perfection by some of their land. Most truly and faithfully yours, own people, and that it should have been reserved for a "W. C. RIVxs." 310 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. The wild birds which frequent the decoyed within gun-shot; and it is rebosom and shores of the Potomac, are lated of an old sportsman on the Potovery numerous. Among them are the mac, that a long queue of red hair, swan, the wild goose, the red-head shov- which he wore in a brush, and shook eler, the black-head shoveler, the duck over his shoulder, served the purpose and mallard, the black duck, the blue- admirably well. Perhaps we have yet winged teal, the green-winged teal, the to discover that birds have curiositvy. widgeon, and the far-celebrated can- Among the many varieties of wild fowl vass-back. This duck, which we believe found on the Potomac, below Harper's is unrivalled in the world for richness of Ferry, is the wild swan, The young flavor, is one of a class called drift-fowl, bird is considered a great delicacy; from their habit of floating in the mid- while the old one is hard and without die of the river when at rest. The two flavor. In a book on the District of Cospecies of shoveler have the same habit, lumbia, by Mr. Elliott, there are some and are scarcely inferior in flavor. The curious particulars respecting their habcanvass-back, it is supposed, breeds on its, and the manner of taking them. the borders of the northern lakes, or on "This noble bird," says the author, the shores of Hudson's bay; and in their "is seen floating nearthe shores, in flocks migrations confine their pasture almost of some two or three hundred, white as exclusively to the Chesapeake and Po- the driven snow, and firom time to time I tomac. It is well ascertained that they emitting fine, sonorous, and occasionally feed on the bulbous root of a grass which melodious songs-so loud, that they ogrows on the flats in these rivers, and might be heard, on a still evening, two which is commonly known as wild cel- or three miles. There are two kinds, ery. It is said, that during a hard so called from their respective noteswinter, some forty years ago, a strong the one the trumpeter, and the other wind blew so much of the water off the the hooper; the trumpeter is the largest, flats of James river, that the remainder and, when at full size, will measure from froze to the bottom, enclosing the long five to six feet fiom the bill to the point tops of this grass so closely in the ice, of the toe, and fiom seven to eight feet that when it broke up, and was floated fiom the tip of one wing to the tip of off in the spring, it tore whole fields of the other, when stretched and expanded. it up by the roots, and destroyed the They are sagacious and wary, and depasture. Since that time the canvass- pend more on the sight than on the back has never been seen on the river. sense of smell. On a neck nearly three The bald duck feeds very frequently feet in length, they are enabled to eleamong these water-fowl; and not hav- vate their heads so as to see and dising the power to dive entirely under tinguish, with a quick and penetrating water in search of food, he watches for eye, objects at a great distance; and by the rising of the canvass-back, and, by means of this same length of neck, they his superior quickness on the wing, feed in slack tides, by immersing, as is seizes on the celery the moment it ap- their habit, nearly all of the body, and pears above the surface, and escapes throwing only their feet and tails out in with it to the shore. three or four feet water, and on the flatty The canvass-back is often shot fiom shores they firequent, generally beyond behind blinds of brush, which conceal gunshot; the sportsman availing himthe sportman, in the midst of the feed- self, however, of a peculiar propensity ing ground. There is a practice, how- (of which we -shall presently speak more ever, of "tolling them in," as it is called, particularly) prevailing with them, and by shaking a colored handkerchief tied some of the other water-fowl, often toll to the branch of a decayed tree. On them within reach of their fire. The i what propensity of the bird the success swans remain here the whole winter, of this manoeuvre is founded, it would only shifting their ground, in severe be difficult to say. There is no doubt weather, fiom the fiozen to the open of the fact, however, that they are thus I part of the river, and dropping down DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 311 into tie salts, where it is rarely frozen. " The wild goose is yet more wary and They get into good condition soon after vigilant to keep out of harm's way than their arrival in autumn, and remain fat the swan. He too is sharp-sighted, until toward spring, when, a few weeks but depends much on his sense of smell' before their departure (about the first for protection: this is so well known to of March), they gradually become thin- the huntsman, that he never attempts, ner in flesh; and in the latter part of however he may be concealed from this their sojourn here, are found so poor bird, to approach it from the direction and light, that, when shot, the gunner of the wind; since he would assuredly gets nothing fit for use but the feathers. be scented before he could get within Whether this circumstance be owing to gun-shot, and left to lament his error, by their having exhausted the means of the sudden flight of the whole flock. subsistence at their feeding-places, or These geese, toward spring, often alight that they are taught by Him who rules on the land, and feed on the herbage in the universe, in small as well as great fields; and sometimes in such numbers things, thus by abstaining, to prepare as to do great injury to the wheat-fields themselves for the long aerial voyages on the borders of the river." which they are about to undertake, GEOLOGICAL FAcTs.-Some twenty we pretend not to determine with cer- or thirty feet below the level of the plain tainty; there is nothing more wonderful around Richmond, occurs one of the most in this than in the fact, which is noto- remarkable deposites in this or any counrious, that they, by exercise, regularly try. The place in which it has been and assiduously fit themselves for this found most fully developed, is where the continuous effort, to bear themselves small brook at the east end and on the through the air-,to the distance of per.- north side of Clay street empties into haps a thousand miles orleagues. Large Shockoe creek. On the bank of that flocks are seen every day rising from the brook will be seen a stratum from ten river, and taking a high position, flying to fifteen feet thick, which most perout of sight, and apparently moving in a sons would call white clay; but Procircuit to a considerable distance, again fessor W. B. Rogers (the state geologist) returning to or near the same place, du- of the university, has ascertained that ring the last two or three weeks of their it is made up almost entirely of animalstay. culce or infusoria-that is, microscopic " The swan is' tolled' by a dog that animals. These skeletons, consisting of is taught to play about within easy call silex, are incredibly small, so that each of his master, at the edge of the water; cubic inch of this infusorial earth conthe hunter contrives to place himself tains many thousand millions of them. behind a log, or some other cover well How inconceivably numerous, therefore, concealed, before he begins his opera- must they be, to form a deposite at least tions, taking care to observe that the ten feet thick, and extending many miles direction of the wind is not unfavorable over the adjoining country! It has exto him, and that the flock he means to cited great interest among the learned toll is near enough to distinguish such ob- naturalists of Europe as well as of our jects oil the shore, and under no alarm at own country, and henceforth none of the time. By what motive these fowls them will visit Richmond without at are influenced, we have not heard satis- once searching for this deposite. Profactorily explained; but certain it is, fessor Ehrenberg, of PIussia., the most they are very commonly brought in friom eminent of living microscopists, has exsome hundreds of yards' distance, in this amined specimens fi-om this place, and wI ay, to within point-blank shot. It is discovered in them at least one hundied sail, and perhaps truly, in the case of and thirty species of these minutest of the dog, that they fancy themselves in animals. To discover them in this alpursuit of some animal, as the fag or most impalpable dust, requires a powermink, by which their young are annoyed ful microscope; and doubtless, thereoire, at their breeding-places. many who look at specimens with the [[ l. 1) 312 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. naked eye, will be very incredulous as variety to the scenery, and render it to these statements. But they are con- grand beyond the power of description. sidered as established facts by the sci- Reposing in their midst, are those entific world. medicinal waters, which give health to The substance may be distinguished the pilgrim and pleasure to its devotee from clay by being much lighter when from the most distant borders of our dry. It is not, indeed, much heavier land. The soil, in parts at least, of than magnesia, when pure. In other high fertility, adds beauty to the landparts of the world it is sometimes used scape, by the luxuriant covering which [for polishing-powder. From a slight it spreads over the face of nature. trial, it is believed that the Richmond de- In the months of spring, the eye is posite would answer the same purpose. everywhere met by wide fields of cloBeneath the infusorial deposite is a ver, colored by its blossoms, and loadgreenish or bluish clay, containing nu- ing the air with fiagrance. Later in merous seashells, or rather casts and the year, scattered here and there, are moulds of them, with sharks' teeth, &c.; seen plantations of tobacco, fields of but these, although of deep interest to corn of gigantic growth, and of hempgeologists, will not excite much atten- the dark, rich foliage of the latter rising tion from others. far above the barriers that would hem It can hardly be doubted, that when it in. Nor does the hoar firost of winter this region was covered by the ocean, entirely despoil the landscape of its lovethe waters swarmed with microscopic liness. Even then, lay revelling in the \animalcule, whose skeletons, as the ani- warm sunlight of each genial day, fields mals died, dropped to the bottom, and of grain, that, anticipating the early in the course of ages accumulated pro- spring, have already put on their dress digiously. But when we recollect how of green, in which to wait its coming. astonishingly fast they multiply, we need But let us turn from this to another not suppose many centuries necessary to portion of Virginia-a portion far less produce even this extraordinary thick- favored in respect to soil and climate, ness. still viewed, perhaps, with scarcely less SCENERY AND CLIMATE.-SO beauti- partial satisfaction by those who have ful is that portion of the state which is had long familiarity with its droughts encircled by the lofty summits of the and heats-have inhaled fiom infancy Allegany, that scarcely can its inhabit- its pestilential breath, and with every ants be charged with blinding prejudice autumn, greeting as old acquaintances, in believing and styling it the " garden have lustily and, forsooth, involuntarily of the state," or even the " Eden of the shaken hands with its chills and fevers. world." The climate presents a pleas- Scarcely does the traveller leave, with ant tnedium between the extremes of the setting sun, the blue lofty summits heat and cold, occasioning particular of the Allegany, as he is informed by prevalence to neither the fevers incident the increasing uniformity of scenery, to the one, nor the pulmonary complaints multitudinous marshes, forests of ever-belonging to the other. The moun- green, and wide-spread plains of sand, tains-still the haunt of game, and oft- that he is in verity entering upon the entimes re-echoing the sound of the pine barrens of the South Atlantic coast. hunter's gun, the baying of his hounds, or On every side he observes tracts of land perchance the mirthful laugh of young lying waste, half overgrown with briers equestrians, who seek amusement on and thistles, or low underwood, which, their sides and summits, by the exhil- he is told, is left to regain its strength, arating exercise to which they invite — by the rest of several seasons, or pergive healthful relief from the ennui of haps has been "turned out"-that is, southern life; and at the same time, given over to a second growth of forest. crowned with foliage, or capped with Much of the wooded land around him, fire, reflecting and dispersing the rays I densely covered with full-grown pines, of the rising or setting sun, they impart I th will find to be of this last description. -J DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 313 Meager herds of cattle wander through rounding districts, his own is the favorthe tall coarse grass, or feed on the ref- ite abode of Esculapius. And you will use of cornfields. Tracts of corn and not discover that it is otherwise, till, as cotton are, at least to the planter's eye, the sickly season approaches, you see relieving features of the landscape. on every hand increasing symptoms of But aside from the peculiarities of disease; one after another, in alarmingnatural scenery, there are others which My rapid succession, sinking beneath its can not fail to fix the eye of the stran- influence; and it sometimes happens, get, in traversing this portion of Vir- that in a neighborhood thus afflicted, ginia. He will observe the singular there are scarcely a sufficient number cf appearance given to country houses, by well persons to take care of the sick. the common custom of placing the chim- Turning northward from Virginianeys exterior to the main building. He not in spring, but in the last months of will also notice a scarcity of barns; and summer-a pleasing change of scenery if, perchance, on the borders of some is soon apparent to the observer. The pleasant grove, or in the outskirts of a fields contract in their dimensions, yet forest, he spies a rude shelter which he present to the eye a greater variety, and would mistake for a barn, he is at once everywhere assume a more fiesh and informed that he sees before him a coun- healthful aspect. The tall brown grass try church, where a periodical discourse gives place to verdant meadows. Herbcalls together a multitude of wealthy age becomes of a deeper green, and planters from ten, fifteen, or even twenty dense fields of corn and broomcorn wave miles around. But though in this warm gently to the breeze. Fruit-yards and climate, cattle require no lodging-places, orchards multiply in all directions, enstill a destitution of out-houses will in circling every little country cottage, and no wise be observed to be a characteris- weighed down with their luxuriant burtic of a southern residence. Conspicu- dens, imparting to the landscape an air ous enough will be'seen a meat-house, of peace and plenty. Towns and viland from this, as a centre, radiate many lages are of greater frequency. And in humble dwellings, constituting almost a short, as you approach the great northvillage of themselves. Fine flourishing ern metropolis of trade, the whole aporchards, filling up the rear-ground of pearance of things is changed; you are the picture, will for the most part be greeted in a different dialect; different looked for in vain. Even figs, peaches, habits and manners attract attention; apricots, and grapes-which, in this fa- and a certain something in the general voring temperature, might be expected air of all around, tells you that the hot to multiply in profusion-are generally haste of steam has in two short days far firom abundant. conveyed you to another soil, beneath To the prevalence of fevers we have another sky, and among another people. already alluded. Regular as the pes- Still you are yet, as it were, only in the tiferous dews and decay of foliage in great congress-place of states. Here August and September, so regular are citizens from both sides of Dixon's line their ravages on human prey. Friend meet, some on business, others in friendthen anxiously watches the countenance ship. Peculiarities of diverse sections of friend, in dread expectancy of tracing of our Union conflict with and modify there the saflf'on mark of the king of each other; and altogether there is preterrors. Still, long familiarity with dis- sented a sort of amalgamated medium ease, and practical skill acquired for its or medley mass, retaining indeed much control, have, to a considerable degree, that is sectional, but intermingled with given to the inhabitants a sort of reck- almost every variety of habits, appearlessness and seeming insensibility to the ance, and customs. extent to which it prevails; and question HISTORY.-Some writers are,f the one of them if his locality be healthful, opinion that Sebastian Cabot disco;ered and you will probably be assured that, the coast of Virginia, in his;.,yage of though pestilence strolls through sur- 1498; but circumstances delayed the (I --- I 314 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. settlement, and even all particular ac- authority were sealed, and not to be quaintance, with this part of the country opened until after the landing. until a much later period. In conse- The capes of the Chesapeake then quence of Martin Frobisher having taken received the names which they still bear, back to England from Hudson river, as after the two sons of K'ing James — was pretended, a small piece of gold, Charles and Henry. The first landing the merchants of London, incited by was effected on Cape Henry. and there the hope of enriching themselves as the the instructions were read, which apSpaniards had done in South America, pointed a council for the government of engaged in voyages of discovery with the country, among which was Smith. great zeal in 157S. But this spirit was Such, however, was the opposition made short-lived, their enterprises being alto- to him, that he was excluded by a vote, gether unfortunate. The expedition of and WYingfield was elected president. Sir Humphrey Gilbert in 157S, and that The colonists soon re-embarked, sailed in 1583, had no better success, one of into the bay, and entered a fine river, the vessels, with the leader of the expe- which they named James, in honor of dition, being lost on the way home. the king, though the natives called it The next year, however, his step- Powhatan. Proceeding up the stream brother, Sir Walter Raleigh, had better about fifty miles, they chose a spot for success, in a voyage he made to America, a town. The president, through some under one of the very liberal royal pat- foolish jealousy of his people, refused ents so easily obtained at that period. permission to erect a fort or to allow On the 13th of July the vessels entered military exercises, but sent Smith and a Ocracoke inlet (now in North Carolina); few other men to make discoveries; and a landing was made at WVocoken while, by the exertions of Kendall, a island, where an amicable intercourse half-moon was constructed of the boughs was opened with the natives. A colony of trees, as a feeble breastwork. was formed under Governor Lane; but JAMESTOWN, seven miles fi-om Wilas no gold was found, and prospects be- liamsburg, is now a deserted st:?'t concame discouraging, it was soon aban- taining only a few remains of its ancient doned, but not until the important dis- importance. It is truly an interesting covery had been made of Chesapeake place, as the first ground occupied by a bay. Passing by one or two other un- permanent colony within the boundaries successful attempts of the same kind, of the country, and the scene of the we come to the year 1606, when James- principal events, before mentioned, contown was occupied by the celebrated nected with the early settlement. Captain John Smith. James city was one of the eight origiUnder the command of Captain New- nal shires into which Virginia was diport, on the 19th of December, three vided in 1634, and is twenty-three miles small vessels sailed for Virginia with long by about eight miles wide, being one hundred and five colonists. The bounded on the north and south by York aggregate numbers of tons of all these and James rivers. The population at vessels was one hundred and sixty; and the last census was 1,325 whites, 1,941 they were detained on the English coast slarvs, 507 fiee colored persons-in all, six weeks by the weather. 3,779. Taking the usual course of a southern Jamestown is the spot which was ocpassage at that day, they steered first for cupied by Captainl John Smith and his the Canary islands, and then stopped at companions, and is a point of land bethe West Indies; and the consequence longing to the tract that extends into was, that the expedition did not arrive James river. The current is gradually at the Delaware until April 26th of the wearing away the land. The only refollowing year. Dissensions had arisen mains are the stone tower of an old, l during the voyage, which could not be ruinous church, of unknown date, and pacified before making the land, because the churchyard. The Westover manuthe instructions delivered their by royal script says a church was erected here Ir --— ii i~ — L —--— "-~i)-i~-~~ ~ v ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ — - --- -~- ----- -----— ~ —---— 1T~ =-~== —— ==~_-~r~ —~!! r ---— L —-c —-=L — r —-— ~uin of amesown 316 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. very soon after the beginning of the set- miserably on such food as they were tlement, but it cost only fifty pounds, and able to procure, chiefly sturgeon and therefore must have been but a small crabs taken from the water. Newport,! and perishable building. The edifice however, being at length arrested, in an of which the remains are now to be attempt to atandon the sufferers by sail. I seen, must have been of a later date, arid ing away in the pinnace, was deposed, fi may have been the second which, as we and Ratcliffe was appointed president learn from Smith's journal, was in ruins in his place. in 1617. If so, the venerable remains He, however, proved so unpopular represented in the cut must be two hun- and so incompetent. that he was glad to dred and thirty years old. place Smith in fact at the head of affairs; This vicinity is also remarkable for and by the energy of the latter, the colthe invasion of Arnold, January 3, 1781, ony was saved from starvation. Findand for two actions fought here between ing all other means to obtain provisions General La Fayette and the troops of unsuccessful, he managed to terrify the Cornwallis, June 25 and July 8, 1781. i Indian tribe dwelling at Hampton (then But to return to the narrative of early called Keochtan), so much that they furevents. While on his journey of dis- nished them with food. Soon after this, covery, Smith penetrated to the falls of Smith was made prisoner by the savthe river, and found a native tribe seated ages, and after being sentenced to die, near the present site of Richmond, un- and led out for execution, was rescued der the command of the chief Powhatan, by the celebrated princess Pocahontas; by whom he was kindly received. But with the history of whom, and this sinduring his absence, the colonists, while gular act of humanity performed by her, at work, had been assailed by the neigh- we presume our readers are familiar. boring savages, who wounded seventeen In 1609, a new charter was granted men and killed a boy. The interference by the king to the company, entitled of the crews of the vessels alone saved "The Treasurer and Company of Adthem all from destruction. From that venturers of the City of London, for time watch was kept by day and night, the First Colony in Virginia;" the powand preparation made for defence by ers and territory being enlarged, and a erecting a fort and otherwise. new council being formed in England, Newport prepared to depart at the while the old president and council were end of six weeks; but before he left the abolished. Lord Delaware, or De la colony, Smith was tried by the council War, was appointed governer, and five at his own request; and although great hundred emigrants were collected, who exertions were made to procure his embarked in nine ships, under the comcondemnation, lie received an award of mand of Captain Newport, who, with two hundred pounds as damages for in- Sir Thomas Gates and Sir George Somjurious treatment; but this he threw ers, was to exercise the government into the common stock. The vessels until the arrival of the governor. The now sailed, leaving a feeble colony of vessel in which the three governors sailed about one hundred men, about one half was separated fiom the rest by a storm, of whom were "gentlemen," unaccus- and driven to Bermuda; and, when the tomed to labor, and ill qualified to en- others arrived at Jamestown, the emidure privations and hardships; and so grants proved so wild and insubordinate, powerful were the effect of the climate and so unsuccessful in their attempts to and the circumstances around them, that form a government, that Smith, finding at the end of a week hardly ten of the the colony exposed to an attack from company were able to stand upon their the Indians, resumed his authority, imfeet. Fifty died between the months prisoned the most turbulent, and soon I of May and September; yet the presi- reduced things to a state of order. He dent felt so little sympathy with his com- then sent a band of settlers into the panions, that he enjoyed every luxury country, who began a new town; but, within his reach, while they were living being alarmed at the hostile aspect of 11, O M; DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 317 the natives, they soon sent to him for pany were hardly persuaded, by De!laprotection. ware's representations of the fertility Smith, a slhort time after this, was of the soil and the prospect of success shockingly mangled by the explosion of in agriculture, to sustain the settlement some gunpowder, and was compelled to they had begun. Successive fluctuati ns go to England for surgical aid, whence in the political condition of the colony he never returned. The colony suffered continued to retard its improvement for severely from his loss. Being left un- several years.! der the goverrnment of Mr. Percy, a In 1613 the land was divided among man of less energy ttan goodness of the people, having before that been held heart, the motley band of colonists, con- in common, by which practice general sisting chiefly of broken-down trades- idleness had been fostered. The folmen arnd profligate young men, soon fell lowing year, Argal was sent against the into confusion and anarchy; and the In- French colony of L'Acadie, and he took dians, emboldened by their weakness, Port Royal, and also seized New York, threatened them so much that the settle- on his way home, in the name of Engment was abandoned, and the people land. Tobacco began to be extensively were proceeding to sea, when, at the cultivated in 1615. mouth of James river, they met Lord Captain Argal was appointed goverDelaware, and were encouraged to re- nor in 1616, after the return of Goverturn. By remonstrances, threats, and nor Yeardly to England; but, in consepromises, he reduced them to a state of quence of tyrannical conduct, he was order, and formed a council, consisting superseded by Yeardly in 1619. In of Sir Thomas Gates, his lieutenant- that year the first colonial assembly in general; Sir George Somers, his admi- America was convoked, and consisted ral; the honorable George Percy, one of the governor, the council, and two of his captains; Sir Fernando Veinman, burgesses, elected by each of the borhis master of ordnance; and Christopher oughs, which then numbered eleven. Newport, his vice-admiral. They assembled in one room at JamesBut the state of things was very alarm- town, and the laws they adopted were ing; though the ships had brought out sent to England for the approbation of clothing and biscuit, they had not sup- the company, who soon after sanctioned plies of meat; the five hundred hogs the acts of the Virginia legislature, but left by Smith were all gone, and the Iin- reserved the power of appointing a coundians had driven away the deer from cil of state. The laws passed by the the forest on purpose to distress the for- legislature were to be ratified by the eigners; while the fish, though abun- court of proprietors, and the orders of dant, could not be taken for the want that court were to be approved by the'of good nets. The governor had found assembly, before they could be carried plenty of hogs at Bermuda, though there into effect. were no inhabitants, and sent there for The first slaves were brought into the a supply; while he took other means to colony in 1620, by a Dutch trading-vesprocure provisions, though with little sel from Africa, which sailed up James fuccess, as most of the Indians refused river, and sold part of her cargo to the all assistance, and Powhatan was openly planters. Finding the climate more fahostile. vorable to blacks, importations increased, To terrify this chief, Delaware cut and the traffic soon became extensive. off the hand of one of his Indians, and During the civil wars in England unsent him to threaten similar treatment der the reign of Charles I., many of his to all who should attempt to injure the opposers, after falling into his hands as colonists; and this awed the savages in- prisoners, were transported to Virginia to peace. The first exports were soon and sold as slaves. This was the fact after made from the colony to England; with many of the captives taken in the and being only cedar and black-walnut battles of Dunbar and Worcester, and wood and iron, instead of gold, the cornm- the leaders of the insurrection of Pen 318 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. ruddoc. Besides, many poor persons parliament, by which new restrictions were induced to emigrate from England, were laid on commerce; and Bacon's under promises to pay their passage by rebellion soon after broke out, which subsequent labor; and these were sold continued seven months, until the death to the highest bidders after their arrival, of its ringleader, who had already sucand set to work for the benefit of their ceeded in reducing Jamestown to ashes, purchasers. and sustaining a rebellious government. In 1620, ninety young women were Berkeley, with great humanity, soon resent from England to be sold for wives; duced the colony again to quiet; but a and in the following year sixty more. variety of changes afterward followed, The first sales were made for one hun- which may be passed by in a brief sketch dred and twenty pounds of tobacco, and of the history of this colony. the last for one hundred and fifty. Virginia continued attached to the royMeasures were soon after taken for al party in England through the strugthe establishment of an institution for gles of the following generations. The education, which at length resulted in French war, in the middle of the last the foundation of William and Mary col- century, had disastrous effects on the lege. A dispute arose, under Sir Geo. new western settlements, which were Yeardley's government, with the king the scenes of massacres and of several about the exportation of tobacco; and military expeditions, especially the illgreat and imminent dangers were threat- fated one under General Braddock. ened by an Indian plot to extirpate the In that war, George Washington comcolonists, which was so far successful menced that career which he pursued that three hundred and forty-seven per- through the revolution with such unrisons' lives were sacrificed, and the num- valled splendor, and with such great and ber of settlements reduced fiom eighty beneficial effects to his country and to to six. A war ensued, in which the mankind. savages suffered severely. Says a late writer: "I look upon After a prolonged contest between Washington as the peculiar gift of God King James and the colony, a new char- to the American people: I regard him ter was exchanged for the old, while he as specially raised up as our political prohibited the cultivation of tobacco in Joshua, to guide these people across England, and gave the exclusive trade the swellings of a war-vexed revolution in it to Virginia and the Somers islands. to the fair inheritance of freedom which Charles I., on the other hand, claimed lay beyond. I behold in him the develthe government to himself, and forbade opment of a character that has no equal the vending of tobacco to any but his in the annals of man; and I feel, thereown agents, appointing Yeardley gov- fore, that it is true, as has been stated ernor, and twelve councillors to make by a distinguished nobleman of England laws and exercise other high powers, (Lord Brougham), that, until time shall which led to new difficulties. The au- be no more, the progress of our race in thority of Cromwell was disputed as wisdom and virtue will be tested by the long as possible, and the majority of veneration paid to the immortal name the people, being episcopalians and loy- of Washington. alists, ever remained attached to the "A review of the many dangers to royal party, and received from Charles which Washington was exposed from II., while in exile, Sir William Berkeley childhood, makes it clear that nothing as their governor. After the restoration, but the watchful providence of GodBerkeley introduced several aristocratic keeping him for some great end-could features into the government, establish- have protected him amid the dangers of ing the church of England by law, pro- youth, the vicissitudes of manhood, the hibiting the preaching of dissenters, de- perils of the wilderness, and the forpriving the poorer people of the right of tunes of a bloody war. suffrage, raising the salaries of officers, "It was God who so ordered the &c. The navigation-act was passed by anxious fear of his mother, as to prevent _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ - - J DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 319'B Portrait of Washington. the lad of fourteen from accepting a all-powerful dispensation of Providence, midshipman's warrant in the royal navy I have been protected beyond all human of England. HE it was who marked probability or expectation; for I had four out for his youth the occupation of a bullets through my coat, and two horses surveyor, by which his body was knit shot under me; yet I escaped unhurt, into strength-his mind inured to dan- although death was levelling my comger; so that much of his future success panions on every side of me.' Not only hung upon the knowledge gathered, was this protection known and acknowlwhile, with the chain and compass, he edged in the pulpit at the time, in that ranged the hills and valleys of western almost prophetic sentence of Davies Virginia. where, speaking of that heroic youth, "It was God who protected him in he adds:' whom I can not but hope that all the perils of the French war, and Providence has hit erto preserved in so particularly in that bloody battle of the signal a manner for some important serMonongahela, when Braddock and one vice to his country'-but even the Inhalf of the army fell. WVashington him- dians were persuaded that he was under self felt and acknowledged this, and the special guardianship of the Great said in a letter to his brother:' By the Spirit; because, though they had singled j 320 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. him out in that battle for the aim of mission, ungird his sword, and return a their sharpshooters, not a ball touched private citizen to his farms on the Pohim, and they felt that he was the par- tomac. ticular favorite of Heaven, who could "Robertson, speaking of the abdicanever die in battle. tion of Diocletian and of Charles V., " Indeed, in all his exposures by land remarks:'To descend voluntarily from and sea-in open war and covered am- the supreme to a subordinate station, bush-in the masked treachery of pre- and to relinquish the possession of powtended friends, and the hireling assaults er in order to attain the enjoyment of of pensioned murderers, it was G(od happiness, seems to be an effort too lwho'covered his hea(l in the day of great for the human mind.' But it was battle'-who preserved him from dan- not too great an act for Washingtonger-and who checked the hands and he did it-but not, like the abdicating bridled the power of those who had emperors, with an impaired constitution, vowed his destruction. and the infirmities of age crumbling his "The French war, which called out heart within him. He did it in the so large a share of his youthful prowess, prime and vigor of life and health, reand in which his military abilities shone solving, in his own manly language,'to so pre-eminent, he saw honorably closed pass the remainder of his days in honby the defeat of his enemies and the orable repose, and place his glory bepossession of their lands. The revolu- yond the reach of fortune.' " tion, which began in the oppressions of The Birthplace of Washington. —The the British parliament, and the war house which formerly occupied this spot, which he conducted firom its beginning and in which the hero of America was to its end, he beheld terminated in born and spent his earliest years, was peace; his enemies were driven from destroyed before the revolution. The our shores; and the red cross of old place is in Westmoreland, in the county England gave place to Freedom's ban- of W-astmoreland, half a mile from the ner, with its stars for glory and its mouth of Pope's creek. This spot, stripe- for foes. though marked only by a simple monu"' Others had often begun to battle for ment, must ever possess an unspeakable the rights of their country, but ended degree of interest to every person who by fighting for themselves. Others had loves his country and the principles of frequently unsheathed their swords for that most exalted character which was fireedom, but soon had even cloven down here formed and matured, under the freedom in their march to dominion. instructions of a pure and noble-minded Others had attempted to guide a nation mother. How strongly must every visfrom monarchy to republicanism; but, iter to that spot feel that having once grasped the reins of pow- " His name is his own best monument." er, they soon became the charioteers of The plain stone, placed here by his their own glory, and drove with scythe- relative, G. W. P. Custis, bears the exarmed wheels through the land they pressive inscription: — covenanted to redeem., Here, on the 11th of February (0. S.), 1732 " But Washington accepted military Geolge Washington was born." authority with Ieluctance-used it with The scenery around the place is very prudence-freed a nation from its op- fine. The Maryland shore is in sight pression-drove from it its foes-estab- for a considerable distance, with the lished for it perfect freedom; and then, river Potomac, which flows along under when an admiring army and his native the eye for many miles, on its way towstate would have taken him and made ard the capital. The house was of the him their king-when applause rang old-fashioned kind, of wood, and twoloudest and fame shone brightest, and two stories high, with four rooms on the Power threw herself a willing captive first floor. in his arms-when he was confessedly The following memorandum of the first and supreme, did he resign his com- birth of Washington is copied from the l h ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~l! v % ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~1 i! Ilc rnin If iThe B irthplace of Washington.......__ — r, _, _ _.... c_!___i ~ ~..:.~~~tr _ TTT-__ __________ I- ________ _ — -- -- -. 322 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. family record in the bible which belonged lution from the Virginia assembly, for to his mother, and believed to have been which they were again dissolved; and written by her hand:- on the following day the members as"George Washington, son to Augus- sembled and agreed on an address to tine and Mary his wife, was born ye 11th the people, pronouncing an attack on day of February, 1732, about 10 in ye one of the colonies an attack upon all morning, and was baptized ve 3d of British America, and appointed depuApril following. Mr.'Beverly Whiting ties to attend a general congress. and Captain Christopher Brooks, god- Early in the days of the revolution, fathers, and Mrs. Wildred Gregory, god- Thomas Jefferson became a leading man mother." in Virginia, and he was for a long time Soon after the passage of the stamp- afterward one of the principal men in act, Patrick Henry inti )duced into the the country. He was born at Shadwell, Virginia assembly the following resolu- in the county of Albemarle, April 2, tion: "That the general assembly of 1743, and receive from his father an this colony: together with his majesty ample fortune. He graduated with disor substitute, have, in their representa- tinction at William and Mary college, tive capacity, the only exclusive right and studied law under George 5Wythe. and power to lay taxes and impositions Soon after he became of age, he was a upon the inhabitants of this colony; and representative in the colonial assemrbly that every attempt to vest such power in and had a seal with this motto, expresany person or persons whatsoever, other sive of his liberal sentiments: "Resis'than the general assembly as aforesaid, ance to tyrants is obedience to God." is illegal, unconstitutional, and unjust, In 1772 he married Miss WVayles, who and has a manifest tendency to destroy died ten years afterward, leaving two British as well as American freedom." daughters. The resolution was adopted, on which In 1772 lie organized the first system the governor dissolved the chamber. of colonial resistance, by appointing When election day arrived, however, the committees of correspondence; in 1776 members who had voted for it were re- he took his seat in congress, where he elected by the people, and its opposers drew up the Declaration of Independwere left out. ence. In 1779-'80 he was governor After the repeal of the stamp-act, the of Virginia, during the days of the inlegislature of Virginia sent a vote of vasion. In 17S3 he returned to congress, thanks to the king and parliament. and drew up the address of that body Governor Fauquier died in 1767, and to WVashington on his taking leave of the following year Lord Botetourt ar- public life. In 1784 he went to France rived from England as his successor. He as minister, and was afterward secretary soon dissolved the assembly, because of state under Washington. In 1798 they had adopted a resolution condemn- he retired to Monticello, and fiom 1S01 ing the taxes on paper, &c.; but the till 1809 was president of the United members combined in a non-importation States, having formed a democratic parassociation. Lord Botetourt had much ty, in opposition to the Washington or influence, but could not long suppress federal party, may of the principles and the dissatisfaction excited among the measures of which lie opposed. He people at the course of the British minis- finally retired to AMonticello in 1S09, try He died in 1771, and the statue where he died July 4, 1826, at the age noNv standing in Williamsburg was then of eighty-three years. His grave is in erected to his memory. a grove, near the road, at the fobt of Lord Dunmore, the next governor, Monticello. stooped to the fomenting of paltry dis- MIonticello.-This elegant mansion, sessions, to divert the attention of the the seat of Jefferson, is situated on the people from the' designs of the king; top of a steep conical eminence, rising but the news of the destruction of the fr,,m an elliptical plain, three miles tea at Boston called out a spirited reso- I southeast from Charlottesville. Toward I —- -;,. —-^ —---- —I — - = —— = —-=-_ -— — -— L-31 —— 7_C _--tc; —- —--L--^:-:_ — --—;1 —;;;=-;l-rs__I;r --— —=l-s,;.-r; —-=-- — —— — —` -- __= —:-__ —---- II__ —---- --------— -F ;;-;;; —; —---------- -: I — ~ —--------------- i -----,__=-===r —---------- _ _-_1-z;I —:-= —== —;J --- ------- -------------— —— =.- ---—.;,; —=-=;'=-- -=r= —-L -_ —— C —-C-C - — =- ------------------------—' —— —-= —I-i ---- -- -- -,~_r-L-,-;-';_ —------— =-il-l— ---— =.-- — —-- =r - ----- - --— — iJ-c —---— = —----- ---— - —- —-------- -— —--- -— -mi=e- ------- ---- — —== — - —-s --— = —------ --------------- _. —-----------— _- —L. —-.C^ —-= —- —— F _-jj C2;T -—.- -- -~ — — X —- --- j___=___ ___iL-. 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Ig USN 324 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. the west, and partly north and south, it and Edmund Pendleton, sent to the forcommands a view of Blue ridge, which mer a request that they would do nothstrotches away one hundred and fifty ing until congress should decide on Iil]~s; while on the east is seen a bound- some general plan of defence. leas plain. At different points rise sev- The assembly then held a council, eral mountains of various forms and consisting of more than one hundred sizes, among which one of the most con- members, who adopted, by a majority spicuous and interesting is Willis' moun- of only one, a resolution to disperse for tain in the south. the present, and draughted an address, in The approach to the house affords which they " firmly resolved to resist all glimpses of this fine scene; and the attempts against their rights and privispacious hall at the entrance was orna- leges, fiom whatever quarter they might mented with objects of taste, arranged be assailed;" and firmly pledged themin an appropriate manner to gratify the selves " to reassemble, and, by force of eye. Mr. Wirt, in his description of arms, to defend the laws, the liberties, the place, mentions that Jefferson had and the rights, of this or any sister colplaced various specimens of sculpture ony, fiom unjust and wicked invasion. in that hall, in'such order as to mark God save the liberties of America!" the progress of the art fiom the rudest Patrick Henry, however, at the head to the most perfect state: at the end be- of the volunteers of Hanover, marched ing seen his own statue by Carracci. from Doncaster to recover the powder, On other sides were displayed Indian and, being joined by numbers fiom the remains, petrified bones, the horns of counties of King William and New deer, &c. The grand saloon, in which Kent, obtained ample compensation firom the visiter is next ushered, is appropri- Corbin, the king's receiver-general, and ated as a picture-gallery, and contains a then returning dismissed the troops. great number of valuable productions The governor issued a proclamation of the pencil and the graver, comprising against him two days after; but he left many historical events and diststinguished the state, about the same time, to attend men of all ages. The windows com- the meeting of the continental congress, mand charming views of the extensive while a band of insurgents seized the scene below. arms in the magazine. Committees of In September, 1774, the meeting of safety were soon formed in the counties delegates was held in Philadelphia. of Virginia, and " minute-men" were The disaffections continued between the raised, who, as John Randolph, of Rogovernor and the people, but they joined anoke, afterward remarked, with chari; an expedition against the Indians in acteristic humor, were raised in a minwestern Virginia, who had assumed a ute, marched in a minute, and defeated hostile attitude, as was suspected, by in a minute. the intrigues of the governor. On the Among the acts of the governor which 20th of April, 1775, he was so bold as fomented discord, was his sending for secretly to remove the gunpowder fiom aid to the commander of the Fowey the colonial magazine, at Williamsburg, ship-of-war, off Yorktown, while Patto Yorktown, where it was stowed in rick Henry was on his march; in cona British vessel. The people took up sequence of which forty marines and arms; but the governor threatened, in sailors were stationed at Williamsburg case of any resistance, to proclaim lib- about ten days, while the ship threaterty to the slaves, and set the town on ened to fire upon Yorktown in case tLey fire. Six hundred men were soon as- should be molested. sembled at Fredericksburg to protect Governor Dunmore convened the asit, and to oppose any rash measure, sembly on the 1st of June, and made an while thousands prepared, throughout address, in consequence of which the the colony, to render their aid if neces- house of burgesses had a correspondence sarv. At this crisis, the two leading with him, defending the rights of the patriots of the time, Peyton Randolph colonies. He took refuge on board the DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 3'25 Fowey, on the 8th, with his family, un- falls (opened in 1794), ai wve whichboats der pretext that they were not safe on navigate the river two hundred and shore; and refused to sign any bills, un- twenty miles. A canal affbrds navigaless the assembly would meet him under tion also to Lynchburg, one hundred cover of the guns. He was then, by a and sixteen miles. resolution, declared to have abdicated The situation is healthy and pleasant; his office, and the president of the coun- and the city has a pleasing appearance cil proceeded to act in his place. Near from several points of view, especially the end of the month the vessel sailed that from which it is represented in the down the river: and thus closed the cut. It is generally well built, and the royal government of Virginia. streets cross at right angles. Richmond Delegates soon after met in Rich- hill and Shockoe hill, rising fiom the mond, to form a provisional government; opposite side of Shockoe creek, vary and a description of this beautiful town, I the surface of the ground, the town beI now large and important, may be hlere ing situated between them, and up both introduced, as it began to rise into con- acclivities. The latter eminence affords sequence at about this period of its his- fine situations for dwellings, and is the tory. I favorite quarter, containing many handRICIMIoND. -This is the capital and some houses; while On its summit stands principal towln of the state, the capital the state capitol, surrounded by a spaof Henrico county, and a port of entry, cious square of eight acres, enclosed standing at the foot of the lower falls with an iron fence. on James river, 117 miles from Wash- The city-hall, opposite, is a fine edciington, 342 from New York, 557 from fice in Grecian style; and among the Boston, 520 from Cincinnati, 423 fiom other public buildings are three banks, Charleston, 62 from Fredericksburg, two insurance offices, the armory, the106 from Norfolk, 1.46 from Winches- atre, female asylum, penitentiary, thirter, and 23 from Petersburg. teen academies and higher schools, the, The spot on which this large and fine free Lancasterian school, and twentycity stands was first visited by white men three churches. in 1609, when "Master West" pene- The water-works, by which the city trated to the falls in search of provisions is supplied, raise the water, by hydraufor the young colony at Jamestown, but lie power, into three reservoirs, each confound nothing edible except acorns. He taining a million of gallons, and from however began a settlement near the these lead off to all parts of the city. place the same year, with one hundred The MIedical Col7ege is a department and twenty men. Smith attempted a of Hampden Sidney college, and has a settlement at " Nonsuch," but failed. building in the Egyptian style. It has Fort Charles was erected at the Falls a dean and five members of the faculty. in 1644-'5; and in 1646 the assembly |Richmond College, a baptist instituoffered extraordinary inducements to tion, is one mile west of the city, and encourage a settlement on the south side contains about one hundred students. of the river, opposite the fort. St. Vincent's College, a Roman cathoRichmond was founded in 1742, and lic institution, is situated one mile east made the state capital in 1780, since of the city, and has about fifty students. which it has steadily increased. The Richmond presents many varying aspopulation in 1800 was 5,737; in 1810, pects, from different points of the undu9,7S5; in 1820, 12,067; in 1830, 16,060; lating surface above the banks of the in 1840, 20,153; in 1850, 27,483. The creek. The falls, extending more than city is situated at the head of tidewater, six miles, give liveliness to the waterand vessels drawing ten feet of water scene; while the islands which lie upon can come up to within one mile of the the surface and the two bridges, which centre of the city, and those drawing cross it, to connect the town with Manfifteen feet to within three miles. A chester on the opposite shore, offer a canal with locks extends around the constant and pleasing variety. The c'ty puomqolt JO MIA fz~~~~~~~~~~~~~~f -ME. 11~1 _ ~ III_. 0 ffi; ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~11 |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~III D~~ ~ a E~~~~~~~~~~~~~'~~IIII111 _i~~ iI~~_..l=S~,Ct-i 1~IrII -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ _ S g g~2 Y —-s II —~=c~SP ___ _ A_~~=ll(ll~?~NIItfT ~ i~l) eCB C~d;i |~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~1 IS siull Li?~~I~~f ~ ~ l'-'sea~~~~~~~~~~~I..~ ~ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 327 piot now covers abouc tnree and a half. within the limits of the state. James square miles, being seven and a half river is seen, after flowing down the miles longr; but only a small portion of long falls and rapids which interrupt its this is thickly covered with buildings. course above the city, spreading wide A spot near the centre of the business its smooth surface, to float the boats, part of the city is occupied by the basin vessels, and steamboats, which ever en)f the canal. liven its course between this point and its The State Penitentiary, in the west- mouth; while the two beautiful bridges ern,suburbs, is in the form of a hollow which cross the stream and connect the square, three hundred feet by one hun- opposite shores, afford passages from dred and ten, with several acres of side to side. ground attached. The important figure which the capiThe Armory contains a considerable tol makes in the preceding general view supply of arms, and is three hundred of Richmond, gives a just idea of its and eighty feet by three hundred and importance, as a principal feature in the twenty. aspect of the city from many different Manufactures are carried on to a con- points of view. Crowning the summit siderable extent, by water-power ob- of the principal eminence, and rising tained at the falls. Within two or three far above the crowded city, it' forms an years, cot'on mills have been erected and appropriate and elegant trait to a scene are in profitable employment. Rich- otherwise possessing many beauties. mond has many facilities for this species The Statue of TVashington. —This inof industry, which must ultimately be- teresting piece of sculpture, the work come advantageous to the whole neigh- of a distinguished French artist of the borhood. The total amount of capital last century, stands in the area of the invested in manufactures ill Richmond capitol. It was made by Houdon, in is about two millions of dollars. Rich- Paris, a few years after the Revolution, mond is a great commercial d6p6t, hav- at the order of the Virginia assembly, ing an extensive back country abounding and under the direction of Jefferson. in tobacco, wheat, hemp, and coal, which Washington is represented in the miliis reached by the James river canal and tary costume of the country at the time, branches. The flouring mills of Rich- covered with a cloak, while one hand mond have a world-wide celebrity. holds a cane, and the other the fasces; The Capitol.-This fine and chaste and on the pedestal is the following inedifice occupies a lofty and commanding scription, written by Mr. Madison:position on the summit of Shockoe hill, "George Washington. The General Assembly in the midst of the spacious public square of the Commonwealth of Virginia have caused this statue to be erected, as a monument of affection and before described. The front is orna- gratitude, to George Washington, who, uniting to |mlVented with an Ionic portico, with lofty the endowments of the hero the virtues of the patriot, mented with an Ionic portico, with lofty and exerting both in establishing the liberties of his columns; and the effect of the building, country, has rendered his name dear to hs f'ellowfrom its elegant front, is very fine, when citizens, and given the world an immortal example seen from the neighboring points of of true glory. Done in the year of Christ one thou|seen from the neighboring points of sand seven hundred and eighty-eight, in the year of vieW. The building contains the halls the Commonwealth the twelfth." of the senate and house of delegates, The Bust of LaFayette.-This handwith numerous rooms for officers, com- some specimen of sculpture is appromittees, &c.; and here assemble the priately placed near the statue of Wash. legislators of this great and influential ington. state, to deliberate on the interests of The Monumental Church.-This ediits various sections. fice was erected in commemoration of From different parts of the capitol, as the calamitous destruction, in 1811, of well as from the neighboring grounds, a theatre which stood on the same spot. are presented many fine views over the About six hundred persons were assemsurrounding country, and the city and bled in the theatre on the fatal evening, river below; and the scene is the most when, at the conclusion of the play, the imposing one of the kind to be fbund scenery accidentally caught fire, and a ~~I =L~~~~ The Capitol, Richmond. E _ ------- ------ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 329 - ~ ~ - --- - - - - - -— I — I!. _ _=. _= I —.._ __ _= ___ _______i = i-~,-'-='= 1' ^ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ —-if I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~i I Mlonumental Church-Richmond. scene of dreadful confusion ensued. The An episcopal society afterward erectdoors were so narrow as to prevent the ed the Monumental Cnurch on the spot, ready egress of the multitude-indeed to perpetuate the memory of the event; only one door opened into that part of and the bones found among the ruins the house where most of them wele as- were collected and placed in an urn at sembled, and that was not large enough the entrance. to permit the escape of more than a The above cut affords a view of this few before the flames had reached those edifice, the melancholy associations conwithin. Many were scorched by the nected with which must ever continue burning of their clothes; great numbers to be of a nature peculiarly solemn and jumped from the windows, some with impressive. the flames all ariound them; and many We now return to the progress of died, chiefly within the building, which events in the history of the state. On was soon enveloped in flames. The the 17th of July, 1775, delegates from scene caused a dreadful shock through- the counties met at Richmond (as before out the country; but the gloom in the remarked) to form a provisional governcity itself was deep indeed. Hundreds ment and a plan of defence, and the folof families lost their nearest members or lowing persons were put on the commitfriends, and the sad effects of the mourn- tee of safety: Ed. Pendleton, George ful calamity were general and lasting. Mason, Jno. Page, Richard Bland, Thos..!~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 330 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. Ludwell Lee, Paul Carrington, Dudley with Lord Dunsmore, in the ships-ofDigges, Jas. Mercer, Carter Braxton, war. The plot, however, -as discovI Win. Cabell, and Jno. Tabb. Prepara- ered and defeated after a time; for 0'tions were made for raising troops, and Connelly, Cameron, and Dr. Jno. Smith, the county committees were requested were arrested near Hagerstown (Maryto provide colors bearing the motto: land), on suspicion, and were found in "Virginia for Constitutional Liberty." possession of papers and money, which But the governor proceeded to several fully proved their guilt. acts of hostility Tie landed a party at Colonel Woodford, on his march to Norfolk, under cover of the men-of-war, Norfolk, found the enemy in a stockade and carried off the press and types of fort at the Great bridge-the only way a patriotic newspaper; and soon after by which he could proceed; and, havhe marched to Kempsville to destroy a ing thrown up a breastwork, was soon collection of firearms, and made pris- attacked, but repulsed the British with oner the commander of the minute-men, great loss to them, and drove them to Captain Matthews. Hampton was also their vessels. Lord Dunsmore cannonattacked by British vessels under Cap- aded Norfolk on the night of January tain Squires; but they were driven off 1st, 1776, and having destroyed parts without loss on the part of the patriots. of it, Lieutenant-Colonel Howe was orA number of armed men now arrived dered by the committee of safety to burn at Williamsburg from the upper coun- the remainder. That city had contained try; and Lord Dunsmore, having heard six thousand inhabitants. that the second Virginia regiment and Nine regiments, in all, were now the Culpepper battalion had been or- raised, of which six were placed on the dered to Norfolk, sent the Kingfisher continental establishment, of the first of and three large tenders up James river which Patrick Henry was appointed to Burwell's ferry, to prevent their cros- colonel.'He, however, soon resigned sing. A large boat was twice beaten his commission, and was chosen a memoff by the Virginia riflemen, as was also ber of the new convention at Hanover, another boat, which afterward attempted who appointed delegates to congress, to land at Jamestown. In the same instructing them "to propose to that month a colonel of Princess Ann militia respectable body to declare the United was made prisoner by Lord Dunsmore, Colonies free and independent states, with some of his men, on their march. absolved from all allegiance to, or deOn the 7th of November he proclaimed pendence on, the crown or parliament." martial law, and, with a considerable A constitution was adopted on the 25th force at his coml land, raised his stan- of June, and was the first formed withdard in Norfolk and Princb3s Ann. out admitting any prospect of reconciliaHaving ordered the militia captains tion with the mother-country. Patrick to raise troops in opposition to the co- Henry was chosen governor; and from lonial army, he proposed to destroy the that time through the war, Virginia concolonial stores of provisions at Suffolk; tinued to sustain the cause of indepenbut two hundred and fifteen light troops dence, harmoniously and efficiently co- were sent for their defence by Colonel operating with her sister-colonies, until Woodford. He then undertook to in- the independence of the country was cite the western Indians to war in co- settled by the great and final victory on operation with him, and matured a plan her own soil, at Yorktown. with a Pennsylvanian, named O'Con- The first constitution of the state was nelly, who was made a lieutenant-colonel adopted on the 5th of July, 1776, and by General Gage at Boston. A regi- revised in 1830. The right of suffrage ment of volunteers was to be raised at is restricted to heads of families paying Fort Pitt, who, accompanied by several taxes or owners of certain amounts and companies of royal Irish, were to march kinds of property. There are one hunacross Virginia to Alexandria, and take dred and thirty-four delegates in the possession of the town, in co-operation house, chosen annually, and thirty-two. 2 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 331 1 senators, elected for four years. TLe tionary war. In 1766 William Rind governor is chosen for four years by the was invited to come fiom Maryland and legislature, and ineligible the next three establish the second newspaper, which years. was the "Virgitnia Gazette." It was As early as 1681, there was a dispute " open to all parties." His widow, Clembetween William Penn and Lord Bal- entina Rind, continued it for some time timore, respecting the construction of from his death, in 1773, and was suctheir respective grants, the debatable ceeded by John Pinckney. Another land being one degree, or sixty-nine'"Virginia Gazette" was commenced at English miles, on the south line of Penn- Williamsburg in 1775. sylvania, and extending west as far as The first printing-press in Virginia the state itself. The matter was in liti- was erected in 1681, but was soon put gation over sixty years, when Charles down-Sir William Berkeley being opMason and Jeremiah Dixon were ap- posed, like many other influential men pointed to run the line in dispute. This in the colony, to the diffusion of knowlis the boundary line separating Virginia edge. In 1671 he "thanked God there and Maryland from Pennsylvania, and are no free schools nor printing (in Virknown as " Mason and Dixon's line." ginia), and hoped we shall not have, EDUCATION.-There is a literary fund these hundreds of years to come." in this state, to promote learning in gen- NORFOLK.-This is the most imporeral, established fiom escheats of all tant seaport in the state. It occupies a lands, militia and other fines, all for- commanding situation at the mouth of feited lands, overplus of debt due fiom Elizabeth river, at the southern extremthe United States, and some other con- ity of Chesapeake bay, only eight miles tingent funds. A. great part of this fund from Hampton Roads, by which it comhas been borrowed to establish the uni- municates with the Atlantic ocean; one versity of the state. About fifty thou- hundred and six miles from Richmond; sand dollars are annually appropriated and two hundred and twenty-nine from to the several counties, according to Washington city. The ground on which their number of white children. This it stands is low, and the same feature fund is collected by the state auditor, prevails for miles around the city. The and is under the direction of a corpora- streets are crooked, and the appearance tion composed of the governor, attorney- of the town rather uninviting. The general, treasurer, and the president of principal public buildings are the marthe court of appeals, who appoint an ket, customhouse, theatre, four banks, agent in each county to collect the funds. eight churches, an academy, a LancasSchool commissioners are appointed by terian school, orphan asylum, &c. The the county courts, who have power to population is about fifteen thousand, and determine what number of poor chil- the commerce of the place considerable. dren shall be educated, and to draw Large steamboats depart daily for orders on the treasurer for the amount Richmond, and others for Washington of the tuition. and Baltimore. A railroad leads south PRINTING. —The first newspaper in to North Carolina, on which cars run Virginia was printed at Williamsburg, daily to Wilmington. August 6, 1736, by W. Parkes, at fifteen PORTSMOUTH, on the opposite side of shillings per annum. The same man Elizabeth river, appears like a part of had printed Stith's History of Virginia Norfolk. It is the site of the in 1729, and the laws of the colony. U. S. Navyyard, which occupies a' His paper was under the influence of portion of the town called Gosport. A the government, and ceased at his death, large and expensive dry-dock has been in 1761, until revived by William Hun- constructed there, and the storehouses, ter in 1751. It was at first only twelve workshops, &c., occupy a large extent inches by six in size. In 1761 it was of ground. There is also the Virginia enlarged by John Royle, and continued Literary and Scientific academy, foundto appear until some time in the revo- ed in 1840, which has about forty pupils. I _. 332 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. The U. S. Naval Hospital stands at Iis supported by four lofty Doric pillars. a short distance froin the town. The interior of the house is furnished The other public buildings in Ports- with plain but rich furniture, and ornamouth are the courthouse, a bank, and mented with busts and pictures; in the six churches; and the population is right wing is a library of rare and valabout nine thousand.! uable books, and a cabinet. In the rear The Dismal Swamp Canal leads firom of the mansion is an extensive lawn; this place through that extensive and after crossing this you come to the garmelancholy morass into North Carolina, den, which consists of several acres of and is an important channel of trans- ground, laid out with elegance and taste, portation. It is more particularly no- and contains a great number of native ticed under the head of North Carolina. plants and exotics, besides an abundance HAMPTON, situated near the mouth of grapes. Here, on the 28th of June, of James river, on the eastern bank, is 1836, Mr. Madison died, at the advanced a small town, in a poor region of couln- age of eighty-seven. try, but its position is important, just Mr. Madison was by birth a Virginbehind Forts Monroe and Calhoun; the ian, and wholly educated in this country. former is the military post on the south- He was intended for a statesman from ern coast, which commands Hampton his youth, and made himself master of Roads, the channel leading from the constitutional law, when it was hardly ocean into the Chesapeake. The town known as a science either in England contains four churches, a courthouse, or in this country. He was born on and about fiifteen hundred inhabitants. the 16th of March, 1751, and was, of Old Point Comfort, a low sandy cape, course, in all the ardor and fieshness of lies opposite the narrow part of the youth on the breaking out of the Revochannel, which is there so narrow that lution. In 1775 he was a member of the guns of the fortress completely com- the Virginia legislature, and was soon mand it. The adjacent part of the bay, appointed one of the council of the state. called the Rip-raps, is so shallow that During the whole eventful struggle, he the surface of the water is kept in a had the confidence of the state, and, as state of agitation by the meeting of the as a member of her legislature, was listcurrents and tide. ened to with profound attention when Fortress Monroe is one of the largest he brought forward sundry resolutions fortifications in the United States. It for the formation of a general governnlounts three hundred and thirty-five ment for the United States, based upon guns, of which one hundred and thirty the inefficiency of the old confederation. are in casemates, or subterranean chamin- From these resolutions grew a convenbers arched with stone and bombproof. tion of delegates fiom the several states, Opposite stands Fort Calhoun, one thou- who, in conclave, prepared a form of a sand nine hundred yards distant, which, constitution to be submitted to the sevalthough of smaller size, will mount two eral states for their discussion, approhundred and sixty-five cannon, the great- bation, and adoption. Mr. Madison was er part of them in casemates. a member of this convention, as a deleMliontpelier, the seat of the late presi- gate from Virginia, and took an active dent Madison, is about four miles from part in the deliberations of that enlightOrange courthouse. On approaching it ened body, of which Washington, his from the north, you turn to the left on colleague, was president. On the adopleaving the main road, and after pro- tion of this constitution, Mr. Madison ceeding through a wood about a mile, was-elected a member of the first conthe mansion of the late ex-president may gress, and took an active part in setting be seen a mile distant, situated on a the machinery in motion. At this peslight eminence. It is a large brick riod, public opinion was greatly agitated building, composed of a main body and by the crude and false opinions scattwo wings. In front of the body is a tered throughout the country, through I portico of wood, painted white, which the medium of the opposition presses; = =______ _II; ---- _~ __. _ -.....4.~ J_~~', —.. — 7-~-~-.-'- ~ ~.. — _~ --— 1_ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-~., X".'~-~-2 ~ — " Montpelier, - - - - - - - ~~ Motplir late~ Resdeceof ads j 334 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. this was grievous to the friends of the but it was so well modulated that its constitution, and Jay, Hamilton, and compass was more extensive than that Madison, formed an alliance to enlighten of many speakers of stronger lungs. the people upon the great doctrines of CHIARLOTTESVILLE.-ThIis town, the, the constitution. The essays from the seat of the university of Virginia, enjoys peCIs of these worthies were collected in a beautiful situation in the valley of Riavolume, called the "Federalist," which vanna river, on the right of which it now stands a monument of the wisdom stands, at the distance of eighty-three and patriotism of that age. In the de- miles from Richmond. The principal bates of the first congress, Mr. Madison buildings of the town are four churches, i took a large share. It was an assem- an:academy, and a female seminary; and blage of patriots, among whoml there the population amounts to about two often arose a difference of opinion in thousand. regard to political policy, but all were Stagecoaches depart daily for Richlovers of their country, and laboring for mond, for Washington, and for the White her best interests. Here Mr. Madison Sulphur springs; and three times a week acted with the Cabots and the Ameses for Fredericksburg and Lynchburg. of the east in perfect harmony. It was LYNCIIURG stands on the right bank reserved for an after-age to feel the with- of James river; one hundred and sixteen eiing effects of party feuds. These were miles from Richmond. The spot which * hardly discovered as long as the Father it occupies is rough, the glround beiilg of his country filled the presidential an acclivity, surrounded by a variety chair. In the administration of his suc- of surface with striking scenery. The cessor, a separation into parties took town contains one or two banks, three place, and Mr. Madison ranked himself savings-banks, fifteen classical schools, a on the side of Mr. Jrfferson and his library, eight churches, several large party, and was secretaryof state during flourmills, and about thirty tobacco manthe presidency of Mr. Jefferson. ufactories, with about eiglit thousand In March, 1 S09, Mr. Madison became inhabitants. It is a place of great trade, president oftheUnited States. In 1S12, as well as of considerable manufactures. war was declared. In 1S17, wlien the The town is supplied with water raised feign of peace was established, Mr. from James river by hydraulic power, Madison retired to his farm to enjoy the anid is distributed fiom a reservoir conserenity of rural life; but here he was tainig 400,000 gallons, and standing at not idle. On the death of Mr. Jeffer- an elevation of two hundred anid fiftyson he was made chancellor of the uni- three filet above the river; tlhence it versity of Virginia, and took a deep passes tlhrough the city in iron pipes. interest in the prosperity of the institu- Jatmes River Canal. —This important tion. When Virginia called a conven- work of internal navigation, at Lynchtion to alter her constitution, Mr. Madi- burg, extends to Richmond, one hunson, with Chief-Justice Marshall and dred and forty-seven miles. Mr. Monroe, was found among the most FARMVILLE, seventy-five miles fiom prominent members. Richmond, is situated on the right bank I James Madison was not an orator, in of the Appomattox, and contains three the common acceptation of the word; churches, a bank, and ten tolbacco man-. there were no deep tones in his voice- ufactories. The population is about one iio flashes of a fierce and commanding thousand four hundred. eye —no elegat,t gestures to attract the FREDERICKSBURG, fifty-six miles friom beholder: all was calm, dignified, and Washington, stands on the riflght bank convincing. He never talked for the of the Rappahannock river, and has a love of display, but simply to commu- pleasant appearance, being regularly nicate his thoughts. He spoke often in laid out, and surrounded by elevated debate, when earnest in his cause, but grounds. The river makes a consider1 was always heard with profound atten- able fall at this place, by which the tion. His voice was deficient involume, town is supplied with valuable water I cx,_~= —,--~.-=-_hCbcz —- -~-I —---------—; - ——,!L' -SL —-- ) i;'' ZQ — - ,_ ._ I FU g f 3 —---—.i:zJI: ~s-c, ~r ir 4 I -c: 2r i —,3 Y,- ~f 5~ L17 t~`"~' -cr lrc —7 -— i-, —)' ~n -r - _L_ c ~;ii i 1 c r I'* r~ -` " r ~mttd =-~r,,I C;M F1-~ hH r+H mrvtCPJ"c*r? lm J>n YL~ irPI\ r' 4 f:~, Y1- ~r'1 Ic. yc, 14j~dk'`o -s IC -J \EI\ FI)Y,~ PT h Z t L1) lhng C" -~~ ) Ct*-. \ rNJFrLel t 3 5~, cluJI c, Q t, 3 -4 rrr — tr53u' = — — ~I\ -t — I IPII,~ur I II h` -kLJ.LZII Birt-place of Ex-President Monroe. -I —-- -— L — 336 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. power; and as the stream is navigable under Jefferson's administration, and, inll almost to the foot of the fall, in vessels conjunction with Mr. Livingston, negoof one hundred and forty tons, the trade tiated the treaty for the cession of Louof the place is active and important. isiana. He was then appointed succesThe principal public buildings are the sor to Mr. King as minister to England; courthouse, two banks, the orphan asy- and, having been ordered to Spain, he lum, five churches, and six academies. soon after returned to England and back The population is about six thousand. to Virginia. After serving again as The railroad, passing through the governor of Virginia in 1811, he was town, affords daily communication in appointed secretary of state by Mr. cars with Washington, Richmond, Wil- Madison, and continued in that office mington, &c. till, in the second term of the president, The Birthplace of James MIonroe.- I e was appointed secretary of war. On James Monroe was born in the county the return of peace he again entered of Westmoreland on the 28th of April, the oflice of secretary of state, which lhe 1758. He was seventeen years old, and held until his election as president of in William and Mary college, at the the United States in 1817. He was retime when the declaration of indepen- elected in 1821; and at the expiration dence was made by congress, and he of his second term, in 1825, he retired soon after entered the army as a cadet. to private life in Loudoun county, where He was with Washington, as a lieuten- he resumed the practice of an attorneyant, at Harlem, White Plains, and Tren- at-law, and was elected a magistrate of ton. At the latterplace he was wounded the county. In 1829 he was chosen a in the shoulder, and was promoted to a member of the convention for the recaptaincy for his bravery. After Iis vision of the constitution of Virginia, recovery, he served as aid-de-cainp to and made president of it. But before Lord Stirling in 1777-'78, in the course its close, his health failed; he lost his of which he was in the battles of Bran- wife the following summer; and having dywine, Germantown, and Monmouth. removed to New York, to reside among He then returned to Virginia, and en- his friends in that city, he died there deavored, unsuccessfully, to raise a regi- after a few months, July 4, 1831. ment; after which he entered the office A short time before his death, conof Mr. Jefferson as a student of law. gress appropriated considerable sums of In 1780 he was appointed military com- money to defiay the debts under which missioner by Governor Jefferson; and he had for some time suffered, partly in in 1782 was elected into the Virginia consequence of advances made by him legislature and made a member of the for the public account. He was uniexecutive council. June 19, 1783, he formly a supporter of the policy and was first chosen a member of congress measures of Mr. Jefferson. at the age of twenty-four. He married Hampden Sidney College.-This inMiss Kortright, of New York, in 1786, stitution is situated ten miles southwest with whom he lived through a long life. from Farmville. It was founded in 1774, Leaving congres after three years' ser- and chartered in 1783, but for a long vice, he was again elected into the legis- time did not prove very flourishing. It lature of his native state, and soon after has five professors, and about seventy elected to the convention for the adop- students, with eight thousand volumes tion of the federal constitution, which in its libraries. Commencement is held he opposed. on the fourth Wednesday of September. From 1790 to 1794 he was a senator The Union Theological Seminary is of the United States, and was then at a short distance from the college. It appointed minister plenipotentiary to was founded in 1824, and has three proFrance; and having been recalled, tow- fessors, twenty students, and one hunard the close of Washington's adminis- dred and seventy-five under-graduates, tration, was elected governor of Vir- with about four thousand volumes in its ginia. In 1803, he again went to France I libraries. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 334 WHEELING.-This is the most impor- ARINGDON, near Ioilston river, is the tant town in western Virginia. It is largest town in southwestern Virginia, one hundred and four miles west of with a courthouse, two academies, four Philadelphia, on the Ohio, at the mouth churches, twelve hundred inhabitants. of Wheeling creek. It is almost en- WINrHESTER.-This town is one hunclosed by considerable hills, which afford dred and thirteen miles fiom Baltimore, an abundance of bituminous coal. The and one hundred and forty-six fiom pu lic buildings are'a courthouse, two Richmond; it is situated in a fine and banks, a savings institution, a theatre, I fertile valley, and has regular streets twelve churches, two academies, masonic lined with handsome houses. The pubhall, and institute; and there are a great lic buildings are the, lyceum, masonic many manufactories. The population is hall, twelve churches, two banks, one about eleven thousand. Water for the savings bank, and an academy. The supply of the town is raised from the population amounts to four thousand Ohio. There is a daily communication five hundred. The town is supplied with Pittsburg (Ohio), and the various with water, by iron pilpes, fiom a fine places below on the river. spring in the vicinity. There is a daily ELIZABETH.- This town is twelve communication with Baltimore in the miles below Wheeling, on a plain, once railroad cars. the habitation of a large population, Jordan's TIVite Szrlztur Sprinzgs, six whose remains are visible in numerous miles north of WTinclhestel, have recently ancient tumuli scattered over its surface. become known, and are annually the The largest is one hundred and sixteen resort of many visiters. The waters are feet high, and surrounded by a ditch said to have a resemblance to those of four hundred yards in circuit. the Greenbriar White Sulphur springs. PETERSBURG, on the north bank of WOODSTOcK is sixty-two miles from the Little Kenhawa river at its conflu- Harper's Ferry, and stands on the north ence with the Ohio, has a courthouse, bank of the Shenand:,ah. It has one two banks, nine churches, and fifteen thousand inhabitants. The public buildthousauli inlhb)itants. The celebrated ing are a courthouse, three churches, Blennerhbssett's island lies three miles and masonic hall. below this place. The Yellow, or Orkey Springs, eighPoint Pleasant is two hundred and teen miles fiom Woodstocl, give an twenty-six miles below Pittsburg, on the abundant supply of chalybeate water, Ohio, at the mouth of the Great Ken- and enjoy a good reputation. hawa. On this spot the great Indian STAUNTON.-This town is situated at battle of October 10, 1774, was foug1ht, the headwaters of the Shenandoah, one and Logan, a celebrated chief, defeated. hundred and twenty miles from RichFINCASTLE, in the southeast part of mond, one hundred atndl sixty-two fiom the valley of the Catawba, contains a WVashington, and two lhundred and seven courthouse, four chlurches, and about fiom Baltimore. It has a courthouse, nine hundred inhabitants. It is seven- the Virginia asylum for the deaf and ty five miles from Richmond. dumb, the Western lunatic asylum, two Botetourt Springs, twelve miles from academies, four churches, two seminaFincastle, have accommodations for a ries, and two thllousand six hundred inconsiderable number of visiters, being habitants. the resort of many in the warm season. The Augusta ASprings are twelve miles The water contains magnesia, sulphur, northwest of Staunton, and are charged and carbonic acid., with sulphuretted hydrogen, resembling Daggers' Springs are eighteen miles the Harrowgate springs in England. from Fincastle, in the midst of a pic- The Cyclopsean Towers are remarkturesque region. The waters contain able rocks in this vicinity. the carbonates of' soda, magnesia, and WF'ier's Cave, one of the greatest natchlorides of the same, with sulphate of ural curiosities in this country, is seven.. soda, &c. teen miles northwest of Staunton.! - ! 338 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. MARTINSBURG is twenty miles from Virginia, but in some parts is fertile. Harper's Ferry, stands on the line of Large tracts, however, have that aspect the Baltimore and Ohio railroad, and of desolation which is peculiar to "worncontains a courthouse, six churches, two out tobacco lands," in consequence of academies, and about one thousand sev- the bad system, long pursued, of raising en hundred inhabitants. tobacco as long as possible on one field Berkeley Springs, a favorite watering- after another, and then abandoning them place, is twenty-five miles from Mar- successively, without an efft)rt to restole tinsburg. the exhausted fertility. The result genCHARmESTOWN. —This place is eight erally is a spontaneous growth of cedars miles from Harper's Ferry. The pub- and low pines, a sterile and forbidding lic buildings are a courthouse, an acad- appearance, and a general abandonment emy, and three churches, and the popu- of the land by the inhabitants. lation about fifteen hundred. The soil, however, has proved valuSkannondale Springs.-This favorite able in the hands of farmers accustomed resort is represented in the vignette at to a different system of agriculture, on the head of this description. Stage- both sides of the Potomac. Tracts have coaches run daily to this place from been rendered productive, especially in Charlestown, which is five miles distant, Fairfax county, where bodies of settlers and at which place carriages fiom the from New York, principally of Gelman springs meet the railway. extraction, purchased land at very low The situation of the springs is near the prices a few years ago, and are already foot of the Blue ridge, on Shannondale in flourishing circumstances. river. Shannondale is situated among MOUNT VERNON, in Fairfax county —. the green hills, in a romantic bend of the the estate of the W5ashirigton familyShenandoah, twelve miles from Harper's is nine miles south from Alexandria, Ferry. The waters resemble those of and is remarkable as containing the tomb Bedford, containing sulphate and car- of General Washington. The road is bonate of lime, sulphate and muriate of somewhat intricate, and has but few inmagnesia, muriate of soda, sulphate and habitants; so that the stranger, unless he carbonate of iron, sulphuretted hydro- goes in a steamboat, will need to make gen, and carbonic acid. The scenery carefiil inquiries. The house stands on around this spot is remarkably fine and an eminence, looking down upon the varied. These springs are famous for Potomac. The buildings which project the cure of spleen, hypochondria, and friom each end are deformities, which th1ose gnawing, corroding ailments that greatly mar the effect. weigh down the system, without con- The key of the bastile of Paris is fining the sufferer to his bed; and are hung up in the hall; and a miniature highly medicinal in cases of disease. portrait of WTashington, from an earthen Fair.fax County-which contains a pitcher, is preserved, which is considportion of tne territory lately included ered by the family the best likeness of in the district of Columbia, viz., that him ever made. A beautiful lawn, partly I part which was ceded to the United shaded by trees, extends from the front States by the legislature, and lately re- of the mansion to the verge of the precistored to Virginia-was named after pice which overhangs the Potomac, and Lord Fairfax, the proprietor of the tract affords a delightful view upon the river called the "Northern Neck," and an and a tract of hilly country above and individual much distinguished by his below. wealth and peculiar character, whose This is the place to which Washingfamily was connected with that of Wash- ton retired after he Pad accomplished ington, who was a native of the county. the independence of his co'intry, and It is bounded by the Potomac river, again when he had presided at the conand crossed by the Occoquan and its solidation of the government-volun-, branches; has a low and sandy surface, tarily resigning the stations he had conlike most of the tide-water country of sented to accept, and the power he Ibl an e h a o a nduc //4 N M -7 E'~~~~~~~~~~f~A'L4.-..-. x'...... —-, r. t IL I I ineaol s bill... i~i l~\!t' Harper's Ferry, from the Patomac side. R. 340 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF IRltGINIA. had exercised, only for the good of his fainting. At four o'clock, the general country. To ast American this place is could swallow a little. Calomel and interesting, in a degree which no lan- tartar-emetic were administered without guage can either heighten or describe. effect. About half-past four o'clock he Whoever appreciates the value of pri- requested me to ask Mrs. Washington vate and social virtue, will rejoice to to come to his bedside, when he desired find it associated with the traits of a her to go down to his room, and take personage so distinguished and influen- fiom his desk two wills which she would tial; the consistent politician will rejoice find there, and bring them to him, which to reflect that the principles of natural she did. Upon looking at one, which freedom are not restricted to any portion he observed was useless, he desired her of the world, or any part of the human to burn it, which she did; and then took race; while any one who can duly esti- the other and put it away. After this mate the extent of the blessings he has was done, I returned again to his bedconferred on his country, and the influ- side and took his hand. He said to me, ence of his actions on the happiness of' I find I am going-my breath can not the world, will wish that his history may continue long-I believed firom the first ever be cherished, as a model of sincere attack that it would be fatal. Do you and disinterested patiiotism. arrange and record all my military letLast Illness of Washington.-On ters and papers; arrange my accounts Thursday, the 12th of December, 1799, and settle my books, as you know more while riding over his farms, Washington about them than any one else; and let became exposed to a severe storm of Mr. Rawlins finish recording my other rain, hail, and snow, with a sharp, pier- letters, which he has begun.' cing wind. He took a cold, but it did "The physicians arrived between five not exhibit any alarming symptoms till and six o'clock, and when they came to Saturday morning, the 14th, when his his bedside, Dr. Craik asked him if he throat and chest were so severely affect- would sit up in the bed: he held out his ed that he could hardly speak, and hand to me, and was raised up, when he breathed with difficulty. He continued said to the physician:' t feel myself goto grow worse during the day. His ing; you had better not take any more medical advisers wer'e sent for, and trouble about me, but let me go off quibleeding and other remedies adopted, etly; I can not last long.' They found without affording relief. The following what had been done was without effect; account of his last hours is from a mem- he lay down again, and they retired, exorandum of his private secretary:- cepting Dr. Craik. He then said to him: "By Mrs. Washington's request, 1' Doctor, I die hard, but I am not afraid despatched a messenger for Dr. Brown, to go; I believed, from my first attack, of Port Tobacco. About nine o'clock, I should not survive it; my breath can Dr. Craik arrived, and put a blister of not last long.' The doctor pressed his cantharides on the throat of the general, hand, but could not utter a word; he reand took more blood, and had some vin- tired from the bedside and sat by the egar and hot water set in a teapot, for fire, absorbed in grief. About eight him to draw in the steam from the o'clock the physicians again came into spout. the room and applied blisters to his ~ About eleven o'clock, Dr. Dick was legs, but went out without a ray of hope. sent for. Dr. Craik bled the general From this time he appeared to breathe again; no effect was produced, and he with less difficulty than he had done, continued in the same state, unable to but was very restless, continually changswallow anything. Dr. Dick came in uinghis position, to endeavor to get ease. about three o'clock, and Dr. Brown ar- l aided him all in my power, and was rived soon after; when, after consulta- gratified in believing he felt it, for he tion, the general was bled again. The would look upon me with eyes speaking blood ran slowly, appeared very thick, gratitude, but unable to utter a word and did not produce any symptoms of without great distress. About ten o'clock.. j !~-a~w. F~ ~......~~'~. t Kim, ~;~~ ~,, itAll~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~Mount Verrion, late lResidence of WVashiigton. 342 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. he made several attempts to speak to me written by his companion and secretary, before he could effect it; at length he Levasseur:said:'I am just going. Have me decently "After a voyage of two hours, the buried; and do not let my body be put guls of Fort Washington announced that into the vault in less than two days after we were approaching the last abode of I am dead.' I bowed assent. He looked the Father of his country. At this solat me again and said,' Do you under- emn signal, to which the military band stand me.' I replied,'Yes sir.' "Tis accompanying us responded by plaintive well,' said he. About ten minutes be- strains, we went on deck, and the venfore he expired, his breathing became erable soil of Mount Vernon was before much easier: he lay quietly: he with- us. At this view, an involuntary and drew his hand from mine, and felt his spontaneous movement made us kneel. own pulse. I spoke to Dr. Craik, who We landed in boats, and trod upon the sat by the fire: hn came to the bedside. ground so often trod by the feet of WashThe general's hand fell firom his wrist; ington. A carriage received General La I took it in mine, and placed on my Fayette, and the other visiters silently breast. Dr. Craik placed his hands over ascended the precipitous path which conhis eyes: and he expired without a ducted to the solitary habitation of Mount sigh." Vernon. In re-entering beneath this Washington's Tomb is a simple struc- hospitable ioof, which had sheltered ture of stone, only the front of which is him when the reign of terror tore him visible, the other parts being covered violently fiom his country and family, with the earth of a small sandhill which George La Fayette felt his heart sink,was excavated, and the surface of which within him, at no more finding him was left covered with dwarf cedars and whose paternal care had softened his a few other trees with which it was nat- misfortunes; while his father sought urally shaded. The whole is concealed with emotion for everything which refrom the view of the passer-by, by a minded him of the companion of his neat and substantial stone wall of con- glorious toils. siderable height, with a gate, over which "Three nephews of General Washis a slab bearing this inscription:- ington took La Fayette, his son, and "Wasbington Family." myself, to conduct us to the tomb of The surrounding scene is left nearly their uncle; our numerous companions in the state of nature. The irregular remained in the house. In a few minsurface of the ground and the numerous utes the cannon, thundering anew, antrees exclude the sight of every distant nounced that La Fayette rendered homobject; and there is nothing in view to age to the ashes of Washington. Simple disturb the mind, in the solemn and and modest as he was during life, the impressive reflections which naturally tomb of the citizen-hero is scarcely perarise within it. Although the Potomac ceived among the sombre cypresses by flows by at a short distance from the which it is surrounded. Avault, slightly spot, and was in full view from near the elevated and sodded over-a wooden door of the original tomb, every glimpse door without inscriptions-some withof it is shut out from this, and not a ered and green garlands, indicate to the single sound intrudes to interrupt the traveller, who visits the spot, where rest solitude. in peace the puissant arms which broke Few visiters to the spot obtain an en- the chains of his country. As we aptrance into the tomb, or even through proached, the door was opened. La I the gate. The stone coffin, which con- Fayette descended alone into the vault, tains the ashes of the venerable occu- and a few minutes after reappeared with pant, is engraved with the arms of the his eyes overflowing with tears. He United States, and the simple name of took his son and me by the hand, and "Washington." led us into the tomb, where, by a sign, The following description of General he indicated the coffin. We knelt revLa Fayette's visit to the old tomb, was erentially, and rising, threw ourselves _L~ —-- -- ___~~~~~~~~c __ wI1 \\/,, -~~ ~~~~~~~sr~~~~~~~~i1i Ij~~~~/i -,, ______~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ c~~~~-""U1~Iftt~ -til LI I I' I _ _ _ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ -~~~~x ______________ / 1/ ~a -~ ~~< ///" i'//"i2' ~~'' I~~~I1~F _~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~F ~~~~~~///H ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ i 344 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. into the arms of La Fayette, and min- I for the instruction and conversion of gled our tears with his." the Indians, founded by Mr. Boyle, of WILLIAMSBURG, though a small place, England. is the oldest incorporated town in the The Old Capitol. —A few fragments state, and was formerly the capital. It only now remain of the building known is fifty-eight miles firom Richmond, and as " the capitol." This, however, was sixty-eight from Norfolk. It has three not the first edifice erected for the capichurches, a magazine, two seminaries, tol of the colony, which was consumed 1 the eastern lunatic asylum, and William by.fire in 1746. Its successor also was I and Mary college. The number of in- burned in 1832, and that is the one habitants is about two thousand. whose remains are to be seen. Within The Statue of Lord Botetourt stands its walls some interesting incidents ocin the square, which retains a portionl curaed. There Washington received, of its original beauty, though much mu- in his youth, an expression of the thanks tilated, having been a good specimen of the colonial legislature, on his return of sculpture. He was one of the first firom the French war, fiom the lips of judges of the colony. It was erected Mr. Robinson, the speaker, who comin 1774, at the expense of the colony. plimented him in such high terms, that, TVilliam and MIary College.-This with characteristic modesty, he blushed, was the first literary institution of the trembled, and stammered-unable to higher kind, in Virginia., having been return a distinct answer. To relieve founded in 1692, under the reign of the his embarrassment, the speaker kindly sovereigns whose name it bears. They said: "Sit down, Mr. VWrashington; your were its liberal benefactors, granting it modesty is equal to your valor, and that twenty thousand acres of land as an en- surpasses the power of any language dowment. There are five professors, that I possess." about one hundred students, and about I In the same building, Patrick Henry four thousand volumes in its libraries. made his first public speech before tlte The institution embraces a law depart- house of burgesses; and although in a ment. The commencement is held on coarse dress, and with the air of "an the 4th of July. obscure and unpolished rustic," he asThis institution is the oldest of that tonished the aristocratic members of the name in the Union, with the single ex- chamber, by his vigorous eloquence. ception of Harvard university, but was The old Raleigh Tavern is still to be long kept as a mere grammar, school. seen, distinguished by a bust of Sir Many of its graduates have been among WValter Raleigh over the door. It is the the most distinguished men in the state place in which some of the most imporand nation. Some of the books in the tant committees of the legislature used library bear the name of Robert Din- to meet in the Revolutionary days; and widdie and his coat-of-arms, with his mot- there is said to have been first conceived to: " Ubilibertas, ibipatria." Among and proposed, by Henry Lee and his the most valuable works is Catesby's associates, the systemn of correspondence Natural Histcry of Carolina, Florida, which was carried on with so much sucand the Bahaima Banks, two volumes cess during the war. folio, English and French —printed in Lord Dunsnmore's.Palace.-Twc small 1754. The first building was erected build'ings may be seen, which are the in 1793, in Williamsburg; but it was remains of the edifice occupied by Lord not until some important changes were Dunsmore, the last royal governor of made in the plan of the institution, that Virginia. They stand in a small court, it began to assume the character of a which formed part of the extensive college. The two professorships in di- grounds which surrounded his mansion, vinity and that for Latin and Greek, and then embraced three hundred and established in 1692, were substituted sixty acres. There he maiptained a by professorships in other departments. splendid style of living; but, being opAmong the six formerly existing was one posed to the rising spirit of the people ------ ~ I - -- - ------ ------------------- 11~~A ~~ — = —-~3~-~~ _ —-----— ~~ _~T~-,~=~I I~~_~~ ~ —-~-~-~~-=1-~s-aff r.~~~~~~M Fl L~T_:_-__~=-r~ —-—'MA;-EE =i-~-=-'= —-==S~ 47- dt"51:t~ i~F_~__~~ 5L ~ --- --- ~ ~ ~ ~ Te oti) ~ N~ahn-o ||3146 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. at the approaching of the revolutionary degrees Fahrenheit, and remains uniperiod, he was deprived of his place formly the same, winter and summer. and power. The principal spring yields about eighThe Old Magazine.-This is an an- teen gallons per minute, and is never cient octagonal building, on the square, increased or diminished by any changes erected above one hundred and twenty of weather. The water is perfectlyclear years since, from which Governor Duns- and transparent, and deposites copiously, more, in 1775, removed the gunpowder as it floats over a rough and uneven surof the colony on board the man-of-war face of rocks, a white precipitate-someMagdalen, then in the harbor. This times, under peculiar circumstances, red act excited the people to form the first and black-composed in part of its inarmed forces assembled in opposition to gredients. Its taste and smell, fresh at the British government. the spring, are those of all waters so YORKTOWN, seventy miles from Rich- strongly impregnated with sulphuretted mond, is situated on the right bank of hydrogen gas. York river, and is distinguished for the The fountain is enclosed and covered closing military scene of the American I by a circular edifice, about thirty feet in revolution, the surrender of Lord Corn- diameter, supported by pillars like the wallis, which put a close to the struig- cupola of a church or other public buildgle between Great Britain and the new ing, except that in place of a weatherstates.'It was founded in 1705, and cock, or some religious emblem, the was formerly much more flourishing than summit is handsomely embellished with it now is. The number of inhabitants a large marble figure of Hygeia (the is very much reduced, so that it is hardly goddess of health), presented by the worthy of the name of a village, con- late Mr. Henderson, of New Orleans, taining scarcely forty houses, and these in a spirit of gratitude for the benefit marked by decay. York county was he had received at this noble fountain. one of the eight original counties into Here visiters resort early in the mornwhich Virginia was divided in 1634. ing, to quaff from two to six glasses of The situation is pleasant, and many of water impregnated chiefly with sulphate the scenes are fine. of lime, sulphate of magnesia, and sulThe York Tavern, in the village, is phate of soda. believed to be the oldest in the state. Within two hundred yards of the The ruins of the old church have a sad spring, in the centre of the valley, whichl and solemn aspect. It was built above herle spreads out nearly to a plane sui - one hundred and fifty years ago, and face, and at the lower end of a lawn of destroyed by fire in 1814. The bell is some eight or ten acres, stands the dining preserved, and bears this inscription:- hall, near two hundred feet long, with "County of York, Virginia, 1725." tables to seat six lluldred guests. From The walls of the building were com- one hundred and fifty to two hundred posed of marl, which was soft when first cabins and cottages are ranged along at dug from the ground, but hardened like considerable elevation above the sprinD, stone after a little time. in curvilinear form, adapted to the sinuThe ~White Sulphur Spring, in Green- osities of the mountain base that skirts briar county, two hundred and twelve the valley, and other irregularities of miles from Richmond, is situated in an the site; but still making nearly an obelevated and beautifutlly picturesque val- long square, and occupying a line of ley, hemmed in by mountains on every perhaps nearly a mile in its entire length, side, and in the midst of the celebrated enclosing an area of ten or twelve acres,'spring region." Its elevation above well set in blue grass, intersected with tidewateris two thousandfeet. It bursts dry walks for exercise, and ornamented with boldness from rock-lined apertures, with that variety of trees which seems and is enclosed by marble casements characteristic of this region. Here the five feet square and three and a half native oak in all its grandeur; there the feet deep. Its temperature is sixty-two symmetrical sugar-maple; next again II~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ - Viw fYoktw. rm il ldWidilasyo ppoch rmWllasug 348 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. the hickory (that of the old stock), and between the logs or boards are filled, hard by the locust. entirely or partly, with moss or clay; These beautiful forest-trees have been the chimneys are formed of small sticks so judiciously left and pruned, as not to and covered with mund; the floor is the conceal or smother what they were in- ground, which often serves for beds at tended to shade and beautify; and make, nighlt. with the cottages, especially when these The fol'owing is fiom a recent letterare lighted up at night, altogether a fine writer:- panorama. "Not long ago, I attended a funeral Lord Morpeth and other distinguished of an aged female slave. About the foreigners have, in their admiration, pro- grave were gathered some two score of nounced the bath at the Warm and the negroes; and as the coffinl descended WVhite Sulphur springs-for arrange- into the tomb, the moistened eye of ment and extent of accommodations, every one bespoke the touched heart; scenery, and health-givitig qualities of and an old man, with half-chlloked utterthe water-far superior to any similar ance, said:' Cry not, my fiiends, our resorts in Europe. sister has gone fiom us, but we mus The cabins are all of brick, or neatly meet her de oder side of de grave. De framed, finished, and paintted, with a great Master has sent for her, and she nice piazza separately railed in for each. is now at iome. God grant we be dere Many of them display handsome and too!' The chips made in constructing chaste specimens of architecture. the coffin, were burned in a fire made Travellers leaving Baltimore in the for the purpose in the open air, as they morning, by the railroad, reach Win- believe that death will soon enter the chester the same evening; thence travel family on whose hearth-stone they are by post-coach, along a Macadamized burned. Several weeks after the burial turnpike, one hundred miles up the val- the sermon is preached. Crowds of ley of Stanton; sup and lodge the next slaves attend, and all are treated abunnight at Cloverdale; and the second dantly to refreshments of every kind. morning breakfast at the \Warm springs. "An old servant, who often speaks The warm bath is forty feet in diameter of the surrender at Yorlktown, and of and six feet in depth, ninety-eight de- the scenes that were witnessed at the grees Fahreniheit, and withal clear as time by him-and who told me that he crystal and sparkling as champagne.'learned to read' wher he went with his A NEGRO CAnBN.-There is consid-'young master to college'-now that he erable difference in the form, size, andi is exempt from labor, spends his time materials of the habitations of negroes in reading his bible, and in'fighting his in Virginia, especially if we include those battles over again.' I often see him of in the principal towns. That repre- a Sunday evening, surrounded by an sented in the cut may be taken as a audience of his own race, reading and specimen of the largest and best kind explaining the Scriptures to them; and ordinarily seen in the country. The they, in the meantime, manifest their negro huts are usually built in clusters; appreciation of the sacred word, by those for the family servants forming a: looks of the most active interest, and quadrangle in the yard, and others be- 1 expressions of joy and comfort." ing placed at a greater or less distance WVELLSBURG, eighty-seven miles from firom the house of the planter, accord- Pittsburg, onil the Ohio river, has a bank, ing to the extent of his estate. a courthouse, five churches, with several Alost of them are built of logs or the manufactories, and about two thousand bodies of small trees; the materials dif- inhabitants. fer, however, in certain parts of the BETHANY is eight miles east from country; some of the poorer white peo- Wellsboro'. It is a small village, but pie dwelling in huts of a similar descrip- is the seat of tion. The arrangements and furniture' Bethany College, an institution with are of the simplest kind. The chinks about one hundred pupils. -:1__ ------- 777- ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ __~~~__~ __~__ —-C_ 111 —,,,_,I~~~~~~~~~~NeroCai Ir - i 350 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. POCAHONTAS.-NO other Indian fe- a boat, left it with his companions at male ever rendered such a service to a the landing, and went on toward the white man as Pocahontas, under cir- dwelling of Powhatan. This would, cumstances so well calculated to excite probably, have appeared only a bold admiration. All have read the simple step, if he had met with no difficulty; narrative of her intercession to save the but we are so prone to judge of an act life of Captain Smith, at that critical by its consequences, that when we see period when his death would probably him falling into a snare, laid on a rock, have led to the extirpation of his little and a war-club raised to dash out his suffering colony. But perhaps many brains, we are ready to call him inconhave lost sight of one circumstance which siderate and rash. He appeared to have is calculated to enhance its effect upon retained his presence of mind through the feelings. We refer to the tender all his dangers, and by happy expedients years of the heroine: she was a child twice obtained a short reprieve, viz.: of only twelve or thirteen years of age. by showing the savages his pocket comFrom the accounts we have of the pass, and by sending to Jamestown for case, we see abundant reason to believe medicine to cure a sick Indian. These that nothing could have directed her in and other circumstances may have had the colrse she pursued, but a strong their influence on the feelings of the natural dictate of humanity. Yet why young princess. Bt, whatever was the she sh9uld have been so affected in that cause, she behaved like a heroine; and case, it is difficult to say, as it may be not in one case only, or toward a single presumed,she had witnessed scenes of individual. By a timely message, sent cruelty, bloodshed, and murder, among no doubt with great personal risk, she the savage race, and in the savage fam- warned the infant colony of the murily to which she belonged. Many of derous plots of the savages. the actions of!idians, we find on nearer Through her intercession, an English acquaintance with them, are dictated by boy, named Henry Spilmnan, was saved some of their strange superstitious no- from death, and afterward rendered the tions. A dream, an unusual sight or colonists much service. So strong was sound, or some other trifle, they often Ithe firiendship of Pocahontas for the believe to be connected with something whites, that she left her home, and rewhich gives it importance. This is es- sided with the Patamowekes, whose pecially true of the men, whose dreams sachem, Japazas, was a fri end of Smith's, in their initiatory fasts decide some im- that she might not witness the death of portant point for life. English prisoners, whom she could no'We have no particular reason, how- longer rescue fiom the bloody hands of ever, to assign such a motive to Poca- her father. Strange as it may seem, hontas, any more than to the celebrated however, she was sold by that sachemi Indian princess who figures so remark- to Captain Argall for a copper kettle, as ably in the early history of New Eng- he thought her father's attachment to land-the wife of Mononotto, the Pequod her might prevent him firom prosecuting sachem, whose refinement and dignity, his bitter persecutions of the colony. as well as her humanity, excited the ad- Her father sought to recover her; but, n'iration of Governor Winslow, familiar before any arrangement was made for as he was with the manners of the Eng- the return of the interesting captive, she lish court. gave her consent to marry an EnglishIt was in the gloomy year when the man named Rolfe, who had long before little colony at Jamestown (the first contracted an affection for her. which survived the trials of the settle- The character of Powhatan is a very ment) was reduced to such sufferings by marked one. His attachment to his the scarcity of food, that Smith, with daughter alone would be enough to vinI the determination of relieving them, ven- dicate the red race from the charge of tured among the Indians in the interior, being without natural affection. He at and after proceeding up James river in first opposed her marriage, but after. l__ __ If __-,,DESCRIPTIO0 OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 351 ward gave his consent, despatched an would be broken, cut off the limb. On officer to witness the ceremony, sent a Mr. Randolph's return, he at once disdeerskin to Pocahontas and another to covered the mutilation; old Essex was her husband, and maintained thereafter called up, and the reason demanded the most firiendly terms with the col- for cutting off the limb. The old negro onists. told his master he feared the window Yet Powhatan refused to give his would be broken.'Then,' said Mr. R., younger daughter in marriage to Gov-'why did you not move the house?' ernor Dale, though solicited by him and The writer met John, the former body her sister-saying to the messenger:- servant of Mr. Randolph, who treated " Go back to your governor, and tell him with great politeness.'He says:him that I value his love and peace, "At my request, John directed us to which, while I live, I will keep. Tell his master's grave, at the foot of a lofty him that I love my daughter as my life; pine, just a few steps in the rear of the and though I have many children, I have summer-house; the place was selected none like her. If I could not see her, by Mr'. R., just twenty years before his I would not live; arind if I give her to death, and by his direction his head was you, I shall never see her. I hold it laid to the east instead of the west, the not a brotherly part to desire to take usual position. It was observed to John away two children at once." that his master had ordered his body to Pocahontas was baptized., and re- be thus laid, that he might watch Henry ceived the name of Rebecca. In 1616 Clay. John replied that he had never she made a voyage to England with her heard him say anything of the kind. I husband, where she was received with suppose the position was preferred by much attention. Her husband had just Mr. Randolph because it is the Indian been appointed to an office in the col- sepulchral posture; his descent fiom ony, and was preparing to return when Pocahontas, the Indian princess, being she died, at the age of twenty-two. Her one of the things he much boasted of. only child, a son, was educated by his A rude unchiselled mass of white rock, uncle in Virginia: and his daughter was found by him on a distant part of his the ancestor of the Randolphs, and sev- estate many years before his death, and eral other principal families of the state. used by him at the door of one of his JOHN RANDOLPH.-A writer in the houses as a washstand, marks the head Norfolk Beacon describes a visit to the of the grave. A huge mass of brown grave of this remarkable man, and in stone, also selected by him and used as speaking of his former residence, thus a stepstone to mount his horse, marks writes:- the foot of the grave. These rocks were " After a ride of two or three. hours, procured and kept for the purpose to we entered a forest of tall oaks, and which they are now appropriated, and were told by Mr. Cardwell that we were particular directions were given to John on Mr. Randolph's estate. Shortly the on the subject. houses that were occupied by the great "I can never forget my emolion while and eccentric genius appeared through standing over the unornamented grave I the intervening trees, built up in the of the gifted and eccentric Randolph. midst of the woods. Not a. stump to The tall, unbroken forest by which I be seen, not a bush grubbed up-all'was surrounded-the silence and gloom standing as if the foot of man had never that reigned undisturbed amid the detrodden there. Mr. Randolph would I serted place-the thought of the brilliant not suffer the primitive aspect of things mind that once animated the remains to be disturbed in the least. Not a tree, then mouldering beneath the sod upon or a branch, or a switch, was allowed to which I was standing-the vanity of be cut. During his absence in Europe, earth's promises, hopes, and distinctions, a limb of an oak, projecting toward a impressed my heart and mind with a window of one of the houses, drew so degree of solemnity and interest I was I near that old Essex, fearing the window unwilling to dissipate." ~~~~~~~~~~~niln odsiae"I 352 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORtTH CAROLINA. 1 1 YNORTH CAROLINA. LTKE the other southern Atlantic states. the coast of North Carolina is uniformly flat, low, and sandy, but littie elevated above the water's level, t anri generally covered with pine forests. It extends 320 miles; and the low, sandy region refealrred to reaches firom 80 to 100 biiles westward, to i the hilly regions, forming an area of 23,000 square miles. All this, with scarcely an exception, is a dead level, with but few spots of good soil, and showing but little cultivation, although the live oak grows readily in some parts, and figs and some other firuits are easily cultivated in the most favored positions. One of the principal occupations of the inhabitants has ever been the collection of turpentine, pitch, rosin, and tar, the first of which is a spontaneous effusion of the yellow pine when wounded, and the others the same substance in different degrees of inspissation, effected by the heat of fire applied to the trees when cut in pieces, and partly colored by smoke. This same business was carried on in many other of our states in their early periods, but in the most of them the supplies of turpentine have long failed, in consequence of the clearing of the pine land; but the vast extent of the terebinthine forests of North Carolina has perpetuated this branch of manufactures to the present day. It may be presumed that such a soil and surface, and such a situation, could not prove favorable to the prosperity of the people. The monotony of the landscape corresponds too nearly with the monotony of life and stationary condition of society, in which the difficulties of elevating habits or education are almost insurmountable. The hilly region of the state, which bounds the sandy region on the west, presents a marked and sudden change in climate, soil, and population. It oc DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 353 cupies an area of 14,000 square miles, within the territory of this state at an with a general, gentle slope to the south- early period, they were retarded by a east, cut through, at intervals, by rivers. variety of untoward circumstances, ariThe Roanoke, Yadkin, Catawba, Tar, sing partly from the nature of the counNeuse, and Cape Fear rivers, are the try, and partly from the influence ofunprincipal streams of the state, but the wise policy and evil men. The weakCatawba and Yadkin, rising in the mid- ness of the colonists, and the fear of the dle region, empty in South Carolina. Indians, long prevented the occupation The Blue Ridge, which in several of land in the interior; and the seacoast other states forms the eastern range of offered only tracts of poor, sandy boil, high land, is here in the rear of two oth- burdened with pine forests, almost incaer hilly ranges, if, indeed, the Blue pable of improvement, and at a uniform Ridge can with proprietybe said to cross low level, but little higher than the this state. A large part of this region ocean. The higher regions, now so is varied in a pleasing manner'by hill flourishing and populous, lie far in and valley; while the soil is good, the the interior; but they were long unclimate cool, and the productions those known, and longer unoccupied. of the temperate regions, including The first attempts to colonize this part wheat, grass, potatoes, apples, peaches, of tlie country, were made by the French and Indian corn, which is the staple under Charles IX., firom whose name product. The villages are numerous (in Latin Carolus) the Carolinas derived and flourishing; the people industrious, their appellation. The interference of intelligent, and prosperous; and literary the Spaniards broke up the settlements. institutions are founded with success. In 1586, Sir Walter Raleigh sent out a The more elevated parts, as in the ad- small colony from England, underapatjoining states, have weather as cold in ent from Queen Elizabeth; but no trace the winter, as in some of those much was ever found of them, and the prefarther north. Iron is the only metal sumption is that they were destroyed by found in considerable quantities, and this the Indians. is mined and manufactured to some ex- North Carolina was included in the tent. Gold has been found on the sur- patent granted to Sir Robert Heath, atface, in a range of counties at the dividing torney-general of Charles II., in 1630, line of the two regions, in loose particles which extended from Louisiana to the or quartz stones, apparently the debris 36th degree of north latitude, and, as of a stratum of the hilly region, and usualwith English patents in those days, perhaps belonging to a long auriferous west to the Pacific ocean. All this exrange, extending from Georgia to Vir- tensive reogion was named Carolina; but ginia. Some geologists think it may be as circumstances did not favor the settletracedmuchfurther. Aboutfifteen years ment within the specified time, it soon ago, much interest was raised in the became null, and was afterward superNorth Carolina gold mines, and several seded by a grant obtained fiom the same companies were formed, in New York monarch, by Lord Clarendon, and some and elsewhere, and mining operations of his other friends, which embraced all were undertaken, partly with steam ma- the territory between the 31st and 36th chines imported from Europe. The degrees of north latitude. sanguine expectations of adventurers In the meantime, however, settlements were, however, soon disappointed; but had been made north of Albemarle considerable quantities of gold are still Sound, by colonists discontented with annually derived from this state by the the intolerant measures adopted in VirU. S. mint. ginia, and several families from'MassaThe western part of the state has a chusetts arrived at Caps Fear, to engage slope toward the northwest, and is in fishing. The latter, however, were drained by several of the branches of soon obliged to apply for assistance to the Tennessee river. their friends at the north, which they Although settlements were begun received. 23 354 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. After the new charter had been grant- but was saved from punishment by tho ed, the colonists at Albemarle were favor of Lord Shaftsbury. He afterplaced under the jurisdiction of the gov- ward purchased the interest of Lord ernor of Virginia, Sir William Berkeley, Clarendon, took the government in 1683, who soon paid them a visit, and appoint- and so disaffected the people by his cored Drummond to be their governor. In rupt policy, that they seized and impris1666, they chose the first assembly ever oned him in 1688, and afterward banformed in this part of our country, and ished him for a year. sent their new governor, Stephens, with A band of Huguenots arrived from a petition for the privilege of holding France in 1707, and settled on the Trent, their lands on the same terms as their a branch of the Neuse, who were sucneighbors in Virginia, which was grant- ceeded in 1710 by a party of Palatines ed them. A new constitution was also from Germany, and each received a grant made, which provided for an annual of 100 acres of land. But most of these election of members of the assembly by unfortunate colonists were soon after the colonists, while the choice of gov- massacred, in a sudden and treacherous ernor and half of the council was left to attack by 1,200 Indians, from several the proprietors. The taxes were to be nations, and only a small number escaped, laid by the assembly. In 1669, the first to tell the tale in the southern colony. assembly under this constitution held Passing over some years, for even a their first session. sketch of which we have no room, we A constitution for the colony was shall barely note the period of the sepdrawn up this year by the celebrated aration of Carolina into two provinces. author John Locke, at the request of In 1730, George Burrington was apLord Clarendon; but, as might have pointed governor of North Carolina, by been expected, the general views on the crown, and he assumed his office at which it was founded, proved quite in- Edenton, Feb. 25th, 1731. applicable to the people and the coun- To secure the friendship of the Intry, and the experiment remains as a dians, Sir Edward Cumming was sent warning to all men who would meddle to the Cherokee country, which emwith plans of government for com- braced all the land between North and munities with which they are unac- South Carolina and the Alleganies, and quainted. contained 20,000 persons, of whom 6,000 A new colony was formed south of were warriors. The chiefs acknowlCape Fear, by a band of men from Bar- edged King George their sovereign, on badoes, under Governor Yeamans, who their knees, and sent a deputation to was created a baronet, and soon after a England. landgrave, and the district was named As early as 1731 rice had become the the county of Clarendon. This settle- staple production of the colony, and was ment was soon divided, and we may now exported in great quantities. begin to speak of North and South Car- SIn 1738, commissioners appointed by olina as partly distinct; for, while a the two colonies, began to run the bounpart of the settlers removed to Charles- dary line, as fixed by royal command, ton, which had just been occupied, the from the northeast end of Long bay, rernain,der were soon united with Albe- northwestwardly to the 35th degree of marie. latititude, and thence westwardly to the But inany obstacles awaited the north- South sea! After running it 64 miles, it ern division of Carolina. In 1677 a re- was agreed that the dividing line between bellion against the government was head- the Cherokees and the Catawbas should, ed by Culpepper, a restless and trouble- for the present, be considered the line of some man, who usurped the government the colonies. The same year, the three and held it for two years, but was super- counties, Albemarle, Bath, and Clarenseded by Governor Eastchburch, after don, into which the colony had before -which he went to England, to offer the this been divided, were abolished, and submission of the colonists on conditions, the precincts were erected into counties. i DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 355 Provision was made for placing buoys in the other seven. His territory exthe rivers, and otherwise improving the tended from Virginia to a line drawn in navigation. latitude 35 degrees 34 minutes from the Soldiers were raised in North Caro- Atlantic to the Pacific! This tract was lina in 1740, for the expedition sent granted to Lord Carteret (except the against Pensacola from Charleston, and powers of government),to be holden on also to join the expedition against Cuba. the payment of thirty-three shillings and The legislature, for the support of the fourpence yearly, for ever, with one war, laid a poll-tax of three shillilings fourth of all the gold and silver ore. "proclamation money," to be paid in War having been declared by Engtobacco, rice, Indian-dressed skins, bees- land against France, in 1745, Fort Johnwax, tallow, pork, and beef. In Albe- son was erected at the mouth of' Cape marle, the people were allowed to pay Fear river, for 24 cannon. The village in bills of credit, at the rage of seven of Powerscreek, on that part of the rivand a half pounds for one pound procla- er, was then expected to become an immation money. The ordinary taxes portant port, but Wilmington has inwere also made payable in the above- creased at its expense. Two years afmentioned articles, and warehouses to ter this, a number of the adherents of receive them were ordered to be built in the Pretender, after the failure of his all the counties. To encourage immi- attempt to seize the crown of England, gration, foreigners were offered the priv- settled in the vicinity of the present town ileges of citizens, after seven years res- of Fayetteville. The legislature took idence, by taking the oath of abjuration, measures to have the laws printed for and receiving the communion in a prot- the use of the people. They had hithestant church; Jews and quakers being erto been circulated in loose manuexcused fiom the last. scripts. The same year, in consequence of After the passage of the stamp-act by complaints made by British merchants the British parliament, meetings were against the paper money, the legislature held in Edenton, Newbern, and Wilagreed to issue no more without the con- mington, to express the strong disapsent of the king. To the expedition probation of the people, and their conagainst Havana, under Admiral Vernon, currence with the northern colonies. A in 1741, North Carolina supplied 400 spirited address was published by an ilmen. The legislature divided the col- literate but patriotic man at Nutbush, ony into 14 parishes, regulated the elec- Granville county, "containing a brief tion of chuictlwardens and vestrymen, narrative of our deplorable situation, and provided for the erection of churches, the the wrongs we suffer, and some necesapprehension of fugitives, and the trial saryhints with respect to a reformation." and punishment of slaves, defining the The representatives of Massachusetts, rights and duties of masters and servants, in June, directed their speaker to adand laying restrictions on the emancipa- dress the speakers of the other colonial tion of the latter. legislatures, inviting a meeting at New The legislature, in 1743, although York, on the first Tuesday in October, urged by the governor to make spirited at which North Carolina was not reprepreparations for defence against the sented. The people, however, in all ii Spaniards and French, in consequence their public meetings, expressed warm )f the threatening aspect of affairs, con- approbation of the measures adopted by sented only to erect magazines in the dif- the northern colonies ferent counties. The next year, John, Early in the year 1766, the sloop-ofLord' Carteret, afterward earl of Gran- war Diligence arrived in Cape Fear rivville, had one eighth part of the original er, with stamped paper for distribution; province of Carolina, which had been but Colonels Ashe and Waddle assembled reserved to him by act of parliament, the militia at Brunswick, and informed set apart to him, he resigning his inter- the commander that they would resist 1 est in the government, and his title to the landing of the stamps. They seized |356 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. one of the boats, and carried it in tri- The legislature had, before this time, umph through Wilmington. The next addressed the king on the subject of taxday, Col. Ashe led a party to the gover- ation without representation, in the spirnor's house, and threatened to set fire to it of Massachusetts and other colonies, it unless the stamp officer gave them an though in opposition to the repeated reaudience. The latter was induced to monstrances of the governor. In 1770,'resign his office. In February a riot the sheriffs were ordered to disperse took place in Wilmington, and a duel, in every meeting of ten men, wherever aswhich an officer was killed. sembled, and it was declared to be felIn 1767, the two houses of the legis- ony, without benefit of clergy, to disolature joined in an address tc the king, bey, or to undertake any unlawful acts. -on the repeal of the stamp-act, after the The next year the public troubles lower house had resisted all the exertions came to a crisis. Governor Tryon, at of the governor to reconcile them to it. the head of a few hundred militia, met The document was written with ability, a somewhat more numerous body of regand disclaimed every disloyal intention. ulators at the great Almance river, and, But the vanity of Governor Tryon led after repeated attempts to bring them to him this year to begin a project, which an accommodation, had a sharp battle laid the foundation of serious difficulties with them for an hour, which discipline to the colony. This was the erection and cannon decided in his favor. A few of a palace for his residence, at the executions terminated the whole, and the expense of the people. The houses governor soon sailed for New York. were prevailed upon to appropriate In 1774, on the 25th of August, a 65,000, which he expended in purcha- meeting of delegates was held at Newsing ground at Newbern, and laying a bern, representing meetings of the peofoundation, the money having been whol- ple in all parts of the state, who had asly intrusted to him. He made himself sembled to express their feelings on the ridiculous, also, by making an ostenta- condition of the country; and although tious military display, in leading a party the governor called the council, they rewestward, to settle the boundary with fused to act, while the convention chose the Indians. The next year, X10,000 John Harvey, of Perquiman, for speakwere added to the palace fund, and a mob er, and adopted resolutions, expressive was soon raised in the west, which set of unshaken loyalty, but firmly in favor the government at defiance for several of the country, and opposed to the northyears, often overawing the officers and port act, the taxes on tea, &c. They courts by a display of armed companies, applauded the measures of Massachusometimes to the number of 1,500 men; setts, and resolved not to import, purthe people having bound themselves to chase, nor export, until American grievpay no taxes, until they should have ances were removed. They approvedof some security for the proper use of their the proposed congress at Philadelphia, mqney. They several times seemed sat- resolved to hold no intercourse with isfied, and made very humble acknowl- persons or towns who would not co-opeedgments, particularly to the king. rate with them, and agreed to contribute The governor's palace having been for the relief of Boston sufferers. They completed, in 1770 the legislature were then appointed deputies to the congress, received there, and the edifice is de- William Hooper, of Doange, Joseph scribed as one of great magnificence, Hewes, of Edenton, and Richard Caseven for England. But the attempt to well, of Dobbs county. get an obnoxious friend of the governor The legislature met at Edenton, on into the lower house, again excited the the 4th of April, 1775, at the time when mob (or regulators as they called them- the delegates of the people assembled selves), who threatened to burn the town. to appoint members of the congress, A ditch was dug from river to river for many of the delegates being also memdefence, and the country militia were bers of the legislature, and John Harordered to be in readiness to march in. vey being chairman of both bodies. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 357 Governor Martin, in a long speech, re- lotte, and while in session, received news monstrated against the proceedings of of the battle of Lexington, when, after the people, and the deputies replied in hearing addresses from some of the memthe plainest and most decided tone. bers, they all cried out, " Let us be inThe council, at the proposal of the gov- dependent!" and Dr. Ephraim Brevard ernor, struck off the name of John Har- reported resolutions declaring themvey from the list of justices of his coun- selves " a free and independent people.' ty; and he afterward collected cannon They were forwarded to the congress for the defence of his palace, endeav- at Philadelphia, but the president said ored to enlist the Highlanders and oth- it would be premature to present them. ers in the west to take part with him, Governor Martin now sent emissaries and wrote a letter to General Gage, at to the regulators and the Highlanders Boston, for arms and ammunition, which in the southern counties, and a General was intercepted. But the committees M'Donald, to induce them to adhere to of safety were active throughout the the royal cause; to counteract which, colony, and that of Newbern took away clergymen were sent to defeat his efforts the governor's cannon, and drove him, to deceive them. Lord Dunmore of Virin fear, to take refuge in Fort Johnson. ginia at the same time marched for the A dangerous plot was discovered on northern counties, with 120 regular the evening of July 7th, for a massacre troops, and some tories and negroes. of the people on Tar river, by their ne- He intrenched himself at the great groes, on the following day, and many bridge, and invited slaves to join him; of the latter were found armed. The but he was attacked by Lieut. Colonel people of Wilmington prepared to seize Scott, while Lieutenant Tibbs, with his the arms, &c., at Fort Johnson, but found boat-guard, six miles off, was attacked by the governor had embarked with them royal troops, which he repulsed. onboard the sloop-of-warCruizer. They General M'Donald, with 1,500 men, then burned the fort, headed by John offered terms to Colonel Moore, enAshe, who had resigned his commission camped on Rocky river, and after some as militia colonel of New Hanover. time passed him by a rapid march, but The congress authorized the levy of was defeated by Colonel Caswell near 1,000 men, in North Carolina, if neces- Wilmington, and made prisoner. sary, to be regarded as part of an Amer- In May, 1776, Sir Peter Parker's exican army; the 20th of July was kept pedition of about 30 vessels reached as a day of fasting and prayer, and the Cape Fear river, and on the 12th, Genprovincial congress met August 20th, to erals Clinton and Cornwallis landed at the number of 184 members; while the General Howe's plantation in the coungovernor issued a proclamation, offering ty of Brunswick, with 900 men, but pardons &c.; 1,000 troops were raised, failed in their object, which was to surand 400 placed in Wilmington, the first prise Major Davis at Ostin's mills, for a regiment under James Moore, and the sentinel on the shore gave the alarm, other under Robert Rowe, and 150,000 they were fired upon while crossing the dollars was emitted in bills of credit, to causeway, and accomplished nothing b-it be redeemed by a poll-tax of nine years, the destruction of the mills, and the to commence in 1777. A battalion of beating, stabbing, and shooting of three ten companies of fifty minute-men, was women who fell into their power. They ordered to be raised in each district. returned on board, with the loss of sevThe congress also adopted an address eral men. The expedition failed, in to the inhabitants of the British empire, consequence of the universal patriotism drawn up, it is said, by William Hooper. of the people, the defeat of M'Donald, Other arrangements were made for de- and the refusal of the regulators to cofence. operate. After waiting in vain for their On the 19th of April, 1775, a com- friends on shore, until theywere obliged mittee, appointed by the captains of mi- to kill several horses for food, they sailed litia of Mecklenburg county, met at Char- on the 29th of May for Charleston. 358 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. The constitution of the state was also, are the gold mines, which, a few adopted in December, 1776, and in 1835 years since, began tu excite much attenwas revised. There are 35 senators, tion, and which are stiil wrought with and 120 members of the house of com- some success. mons, who are elected once in two years, The peculiar features of the coast of as is the governor. The houses elect North Carolina, render it the scene of an executive council of seven, for two frequent shipwrecks, and of consequent years, and the judges of the supreme sufferings to crews and passengers. The court, to act during good behavior. The land is so level and low, as to render it attorney-general is appointed by the difficult of discovery from a distance, legislature for four years. All white except in clear weather; and the greatmales, 21 years of age, inhabitants of the est desolation and solitude generally prestate for 12 months, are allowed to vote, vail there, which, with the difficulty of except for senators, for which a freehold crossing the sounds that form so large of 50 acres of land is necessary. The a part of the eastern boundary of the legislature meets twice a year at Raleigh. state, often render the situation of unLittle as the lower parts of North fortunate mariners almost desperate, Carolina afford of variety, either in sur- even after they have escaped the perils face, soil, or natural productions, there of the sea, before they can obtain relief is a region in the west, which vies with from the land. The temptation offered the most picturesque portions of the by the exposure of property thrown on Union in rudeness and sublimity. The shore by the waves, has too often led mountain region comprehends some of the solitary, ignorant, and indigent inthe highest land this side of the Rocky habitants, in some places, to theft and mountains, and towers far above the inhumanity: but such acts havebeenrare common table-land of the western coun- of late years, and instances of hospitalties. The latter is about 1,800 feet above ity and kindness are much more common. I the ocean, while Grandfather mountain In some of the poorest parts of the is 5,556 feet, Roan mountain 6,038, and low country, a habit prevails to a conBlack mountain 6,476: a little more than siderable extent, which is at once unthe reported height of Mount Washing- natural and injurious: clay-eating. A ton, the loftiest peak of the White hills species of fine clay is found, which many of New Hampshire. learn to eat while young; and the pracThe rivers, in the upper parts of their tice leads to the formation of an invetcourses, wind through some pleasing erate habit, which at length produces a and striking scenes; and in their lower peculiar diseased and almost idiotic apparts, several are accessible to vessels, pearance and dulness of mind, with seand now visited by steamboats. rious injury to the health, often terminaNear the middle of the state, passes ting in premature death. the boundary between the high and the The Dismal swamp, lying partly in low lands; and this line, which extends Virginia and partly in this state, renders through several other adjacent states, is a large tract in its northeastern corner connected with some peculiarities of uninhabitable, and almost entirely usegreat importance. East of it extends less. It lies nearly on a level with the the broad and sandy level to the seacoast, ocean, and presents only a dreary and through which the rivers flow with a slow repulsive wilderness of cypress, and othand uniform course, whose head-waters er trees and plants able to live in water come through the high, cool, and more or marshy soil, with patches of somehealthful region west of it, with a descent what drier land here and there, rising which precludes navigation. The occu- fiom the immense morasses, and a pations of the people, and the state of' large pond in the middle called the Lake society, differ considerably in those two of the Dismal swamp. The whole tract parts of the state, as well as the native is 22 miles in length, and it connects products of the soil, and the objects of the waters of Albemarle sound with culture and of export. Near that line, Chesapeake bay. There is no passage.J DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 359 through it, except the canal which has ver readily combines or amalgamates been cut from Virginia, to bring the with gold when brought into contact with produce of that part of the state to Nor- it, and after this process has been kept up folk. It is a work of considerable im- for a time, a lump of the united metals portance and value: but a more unat- is taken out, and pressed in a deerskin tractive region can hardly be imagined, bag, through the pores of which the than that through which it passes. quicksilver is forced in minute globules, Thle Gold 1Mines.-According to tra- while the gold is left behind in a state of ditions in some parts of the gold regions purity. The separation is effected at (which may embrace a tract of a thou- some foreign gold mines by heat, which sand square miles), that precious metal distils over the quicksilver. has been found from early times, and During the height of the gold specusometimes in large masses. It now oc- lations, 6,000 persons were employed by curs in small lumps and grains, down to one company, and it was supposed that minute points, invisible even to the mi- 20,000 were occupied in the business in croscope; for the auriferous quartz often all parts of the gold counties. yields a considerable quantity when sub- The annual product of gold was once mitted to the separating process, even estimated as high as $100,000 a week, or when no indication of its presence can at the rate of five millions annually. The be detected by the highest magnifiers. chief part of the laborers were Germans, The books of the U. S. mint first re- Swedes, and other foreigners, speaking cord the receiving of gold friom North not less than thiirteen diffierent languages, Carolina in the year 1814, when 11,000 and most of the gold was exported to dollars' worth was obtained. Between Europe. The village of Charlotte, in that time and 1SS24, an annual average Mecklenburg county, which is near one of only $2,500 was received; in 1S25, of the largest mines, experienced a sud$17,000; 1S26, $20,000; 1S27, $21,000; den growth and a great increase of busi1828, nearly $46,000; and 1829, $128,- ness: but the influence of mining, as 000. The best gold-washings (as depos- carried on in the state generally, has not ites in sand are called), are in the coun- been favorable to the moral interests of ties of Burke and Rutherford. The the people. miners believe that streams of water In the course of the excavations, eviformerly flowed where the gold is now dences have been found of former mining found in this condition. The richest operations, on the same ground. Many mines, properly so called, where the pieces of machinery have been discovmetal is found in rocks and stones, are ered, and crucibles, of considerable size, in Mecklenburg, Rowan, Davidson, and and, in the opinion of some of the miCabarras counties. Therethe particles ners, of superior qualities to the best are usually invisible to the'naked eye, Hessian crucibles of the present day. and are separated by the aid of quick- Internal Imnprot'ements. - Exertions silver. The best veins have a dip of 45 have been made to improve the very dedegrees to the horizon, and are from a fective channels of trade in this state, few inches in thickness to several feet. and to prevent the products firom being The process of obtaining it pure is la- carried to the ports of South Carolina borious, tedious, and expensive. In and Virginia. In 1815, an extensive some places excavations have been made system of canals and roads was planned, 1.20 feet deep. and much expense has been incurred in The stones are beaten to fine dust, connecting the principal rivers by canals, either by common hammers, or by the draining of marshes, &c. Railroads sledges moved by steam, and the mass have since been constructed, which add is then placed in wooden troughs, called much to the prosperity of the state. rockers, with a quantity of quicksilver, Eduration.-The institutions for eduand a small stream of water is made to cation have been much increased since flow in, while the troughs are kept in the year 1804, when there were only two continual gentle motion. The quicksil- academies. They are now established 360 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. in different parts of the state; and the tained. The process maybe repeated university of North Carolina, at Chapel for five or six years, cutting higher up Hill, 28 miles from Raleigh, is a respec- the trunk each year; after which the table and flourishing institution. trees are cut down and chopped into Religious Denominations.-The bap- short logs, and piled together inr peculiar tists are most numerous, and the meth- heaps, called "kilns," when a slow fire odists the next. After these are the is put under the heap, and thus pitch presbyterians, Lutherans, episcopalians, and tar are obtained from the heated united brethren, and friends. pile. The fatty matter, or raw turpenThe Manufacture of Tar and Turpen- tine, is packed into barrels-brought to tine.-The -following description of the the distilleries, boiled and evaporated process of miaking tar and turpentine, in the common way in which spirit is we copy from a letter from a traveller in extracted in the alcohol distilleries, the the South, which appeared in a late news- steam passing through a large worm or paper:- refrigerator, which is set in an immense "This turpentinebusinesshasbecome, vat of cold water. The surface of the within the last two years, a very lucra- water, being the hottest, passes off, while tive one indeed. The boundless forests the attendant keeps pumping cold water of fir which cover North Carolina, offer through a pipe that forces it to the botmaterial to the enterprising for a couple tom, causing the hot water, created on of centuries to come. The forests can the surface, to pass off. The steam be purchased for a dollar an acre. Some comes out in spirits of turpentine below, farms have been sold for ten cents an and is barrelled tightly and sent to all acre! and the highest I have heard did the markets of the world, and the resinot exceed two dollars. due is rosin. " Many speculators have latterly en- " North Carolina sends out an immense tered into this turpentine manufacture. quantity of Indian corn, staves, turpenOne negro man will collect 200 barrels tine, pitch, tar, and rosin, besides which, in a season, which will sell for about she is beginning to manufacture cotton $800; about $100 will feed and clothe and woollens." the negro; thus there is a pretty full RALEIGH, the seat of government, margin of profit for the capital embarked is situated nearly in the centre of the in the land and negroes. It is better by state, 6 miles distant firom the river far than cotton-raising-many cotton Neuse, 164 southwest from Richmond, planters are going into it, and the expan- and 2SS southwest from WVashington. sion of manufactures and arts, at home It was named in honor of that conspicand abroad, keeps pace with the in- uous statesman of Queen Elizabeth, who creased number of those who are enter- makes so interesting a figure in the hising into this profitable business. tory of her reign, and displayed so much "For the benefit of those who have zeal in prosecuting discoveries, and never been in a turpentine country, I planting protestant colonies in this part may describe the process of gathering of America. and distilling this subtle spirit. The Raleigh is a small town, containing I trees are cupped in the spring; about only about 3,000 inhabitants, but it is eighteen inches square of the bark is pleasantly situated, and laid out with peeled of; the cupping is made by one taste, having a square of ten acres in I or two cuts of an axe, of peculiar shape, the centre, called Union square, friom near the root. In the summer and fall which the four principal streets, of a the turpentine oozes out through this fine breadth, viz., 99 feet, diverge at vent. Thenegro comesroundfromtree right angles. Between these are four to tree, and gathers this oozed matter snlaller squares of four acres each. into his bucket. The trees are contin- There are two academies, and several ually exuding during the season. The other public buildings. The capitol, ensuing year they are cut a little higher which was destroyed by fire several than before, when a new crop is ob- years ago, contained the finest and most 5 Red | B~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~E [oilu -,~:_~;: _ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~ c z — ~ _~ pill~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Il The Old State House at Ral=eigh ~~~~~~~~~11 | g I | |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I The Old Sltate House at Raleigh 362 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. valuable piece of sculpture ever seen in coaches go to Norfolk three times a America: a statue of Washington, by week, distant 86 miles. Canova. With a degree of taste and Tarborough stands on the south side patriotic spirit which are highly credit- of Tar river, and contains a courthouse, able to the state, the legislature el- two churches, a bank, and an academy, ployed that greatest of modern sculp- with about 800 inhabitants. Stagetors to execute the noble work, on which coaches go every other day to Raleigh he was employed as early as 1819. It and Washington. was placed in the capitol, and excited TVarrenton, 62 miles northeast from general admiration, being made of the Raleigh, is a small town, containing finest CarLara marble, in a dignified sit- about 800 inhabitants, now fiequently ting posture, with an expression and visited on account of its proximity to a features much like those of the Father of favorite watering-place, which is resorthis country. The costume was that of ed to, in the warm season, by many trava Roman senator. In the destruction ellers. This is the of the statehouse, this most valuable of Shocco TVhite Sulphur Springs, 12 its contents was ruined; but although it miles firomn Warrenton, with which there can never be replaced, the history of it is a daily communication by stage-coachwill reflect lasting honor upon the char- es. The water is charged with sulphuracter of the state. etted hydrogen and carbonic acid gases, The old statehouse (which is repre- and contains the sulphates of lime and sented in our engraving) was a well- magnesia, oxyde of iron, muriate of soda, proportioned edifice, of plain architec- and carbonate of lime, and is recomture, and consisted of a main b lilding mended for diseases of the skin and the and a projection at the centre, with a liver. basement of hewn stone, and a fiont of WILMINGTON.-This is the principal four Ionic half-columns, while a large town in the state for trade and most othdome, with a cupola, rose from the mid- er kinds of business. It contains a popdle of the roof. A broad yard in front, ulation of about 12,000, of whom 9,000 offered a fine approach; and the building are whites. It stands on the eastern was of Sufficient size to afford large halls bank of Cape Fear river, just below the for the legislature, and various offices, confluence of the two branches, 13 miles and other appropriate apartments for from the ocean, at the head of navigapublic purposes. tion for vessels of 300 tons, although The present statehouse is of granite, steamboats go up to Fayetteville a part on the plan of the celebrated temple of of the year, 120 miles. The town is Minerva at Athens, called the Parthe- chiefly built on four streets, and in some non, 166 feet in length, 90 in breadth, parts shows some of the ruins caused by with a range of noble columns of gran- several destructive fii'es, from which it ite, 30 feet high, and five and a half in has successively suffered. The houses diameter. are built of pitch pine, which renders it The other public buildings are the difficult to arrest the progress of the courthouse, the governor's house, five flames when once enkindled. MuchI churches, four academies, two banks, lumber is brought down the river, and and a theatre. - sawed up by steam-mills e:ected on the iWake Forest College is at Forestville, shore, where vessels receive their freight 15 miles from Raleigh. It has three for the West Inidies, and some of the professorships, and a library of 4,700 northern ports. The railroad has involumes, and was founded in 1838. The creased the population in six years, about number of pupils is yet small. 6,000. Edenton is a small town, situated on Great quantities of turpentine, tar, &c., the bay at the mouth of Chouan river, are also brought here from the country. and contains a handsome courthouse, tw vo Considerable quantities of spirits of turchurches, an academy, and a bank, with pentine are made, about twenty mara population of about 1,600. Stage- ufactories having been recently erected. I DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 363l We must conclude our sketchof North Col. Turnbull to send Captain Huyck Carolina with a brief account of one of into York district to chastise the rebels the most courageous acts in the his- -"push them as far as he might deem tory of the revolutionary war in this convenient." "The evening before his state. defeat he arrived at the. house of Col. In Ramsay's history of South Carolina, Bratton and demanded of Mrs. Bratton mention is made of an engagement, where her husband was. She replied which took place at Williams' planta- that he was in Sumter's army. He tion, in the upper part of South Carolina, then proposed to her, if she would get on the 12th of July, 1780, between "a her husband to come in and join the part of the corps commanded by Col. royalists, he should have a commission Sumter," and a detachment of British in the British service. Mrs. Bratton troops and tories under the command replied with heroic firmness that she of Captain Huck. The historian does preferred her husband's remaining and not inform us, however, who commanded dying in the army of his country." For this "party" from the corps of Col. this bold and spirited reply, a soldier, Sumter, nor are we told by him the under the command of Huyck, attemptparticulars or this brilliant little engage- ed her life, and was prevented executing ment, which was the first check given his purpose by the interference of an to the royal forces after landing in officer second in command. She was South Carolina on the 11th of February, then ordered to prepare supper for Cap1780. The following account of it is tain Huyck and his officers. While from the speech of Col. W. C. Beatty doing so, the idea occurred to her that of Yorkville, delivered on the anniver- "she might play," in the language of sary of the battle, in 1839. Col. Beatty, " a Roman's part and take Captain Christian Huyck was said to a deadly revenge on the enemies of her be a native of Philadelphia. He bore country." She had poison in the house the commission of a captain in the Brit- and could mix it with the food. But a ish army and was distinguished for his moment's reflection taught her that this profanity and bloody deeds in the upper food might fall into the possession of part of South Carolina. His enmity to the whigs, who were closely watching the presbyterians displayed itself in the footsteps of the enemy. Her own burning the library and dwelling-house brave husband might, by some mishap, of their clergyman, Mr. Linyman. At be the victim of her treachery, instead the moment of his attack and defeat, " a of his enemies. The idea was quickly number of women," says Dr. Ramsay, abandoned. " were on their knees, vainly soliciting Huck and his officers slept in Williamhis mercy, in behalf of their families and son's house the night preceding the property." He had been despatched battle. His troops lay encamped around by Col. Turnbull, the commander of the it. A road enclosed in a lane passed British forces at Rocky Mount, with the door, and sentinels were posted along the following orders: " You are hereby the road. The guard kept negligent ordered, with the cavalry under your watch, and the troops lay in fancied command, to proceed to the frontier of security- undreaming of to-morrow's the province, collecting all the royal scenes-unknowing that they were almilitia with you in your march, and ready marked for defeat and death. On with said force to push the rebels, as that same day, Col. Bratton, with one far as you may deem convenient." hundred and twenty five men, principally Previous to the issuing of the above his neighbors, left Mecklenburg county, order, Colonel Bratton, Major Wynn, North Carolina, under the conviction and Captain M'Clure, had attacked and that some royal force, would shortly visit defeated a body of tories assembled at their neighborhood to avenge the defeat Mobley's meetinghouse in Fairfield dis- of the tories at Mobley's meetinghouse. I trict. This gallant adventure on the During the march, about fifty of the Fart of a few bold whigs, had induced men dropped off, and thus only seventy 364 DESCRIPTION OF THE STAVrE OF NORTH CAROLINA. five were left to attack the enemy, in- effect of embodying the whigs, and in a stead of one hundred and thirty-three, few days afterward, six hundred new as stated in the history of Carolina. troops joinedthe armyofSumter. Thus With this force, Col. Bratton arrived reinforced, on the thirtieth of the same that night near their encampment. In- month, Gen. Sumter made a spirited attelligence of the enemy had passed up, tack on the British forces at Rocky and their number, had been received Mount, and in eight days afterward during the day. After concealing their gained a complete victory over the enhorses in a swamp, the whigs impatient- emy at Hanging Rock. ly awaited the dawn of day, to commence After the engagement was over, the the attack. At length it came, and with officer who had saved the life of Mrs. it victory. One half of the men, led by Bratton the evening before, was about Col. Bratton and Capt. Moffit, came up being put to death by the whigs. He the lane, while the other half, command- asked the favor of being carried into the ed by Capt. M'Clure, of Chester, a presence of Mrs. Bratton, who immedibrave and daring officer, were sent round ately recognised him, related her oblito the head of the lane. Thus the enemy gation to him, and implored that his life were enclosed, speedily routed and con- might be spared, which was done. Thus quered. When the attack commenced, she had an opportunity of proving that Huck and his officers were in bed, and she was as grateful in the hour of triwere aroused fr'om their slumbers by the umph, as she had been bold and spirited roar of the American guns. The captain in the time of danger. quickly mounted his horse and attempted Col. W. Bratton, who was chief in to rally his men. This he several times command on the occasion, was a gallant effected, but all his efforts were unavail- officer throughout the American revoluing-the determined spirit of the whigs tion. He was in the battles fought at carried all before them-and as soon as Guildford courthouse, Hanging Rock, Huck fell, his men threw down their Blackstocks, Rowsam's mills, and Mobarms and fled. Huck, Col. Ferguson ley's meetinghouse, beside the one alof the British army, and thirty-five or ready recounted. In all of these engageforty men, lay dead on the field or were ments, he fought with great spirit, courwounded unto death. How many per- age, and determined bravery. In the ished in the woods is not known-the darkest period of his country's distress, rest escaped. Of the whigs, only one he stood firm in her cause, and by his was killed —whose name was Campbell, influence and example, encouraged and as stated by Col. Gill. The rest, though cheered on his whig neighbors, and in the thickest and hottest of the fight, "bid them hope for brighter and better escaped unhurt, to fight other battles days." As an evidence of his uncomand do further service in the cause of mon daring, it is said, that on the night their beloved country. This battle is before the battle at Williamson's, he resaid to have lasted one hour. connoitred the encampment and adThis victory was not only brilliant and vanced entirely within their line of senglorious in itself, but it had the most tinels. By this bold adventure, he acsalutary and important effect on the des- quired information which greatly c ontinies of the state. It was the first time tributed to the victory which they gained. since the fall of Charleston, that any The distinction and honor of having power dared to meet the hitherto victo- killed the famous Captain Huck, or rious enemy. This victory reanimated Huyck, as his name was more properly the drooping spirits of the country. The written, belonged to John Carroll, who citizens were buoyed up with new life greatly distinguished himself in many and fresh hopes. It brought them con- engagements by his extraordinary boldfidence, and taught the enemy to dread ness and daring. Huck was shot while the vengeance of freemen, fighting for endeavoring to rally his men. This their liberties, their lives, and domestic I battleground is now known as Brattonsaltars. It had the direct and immediate ville. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 365 Tiiis state, although presenting many of the leading features which _______ characterize North Carolina, enjoys _ |__ i~ some counterbalancing advantages, of much importance to commerce and __ fg i x ~ agriculture. There is a good harbor k at Charleston, and several of the rivers and inlets along the coast are -~| t<& ~more accessible and navigable to a greater distance. The lowland which borders the ocean has many tracts of good soil, among which are numerous rice-fields. The line between the high and the low lands is still more ~~~~- ~marked than in North Carolina, injts influence on trade and the position of towns. Rice and cotton in the low grounds, and cotton and grain in the middle regions, and apples and other northern plants in the mountains, mark their appropriate sections, while maize yields abundantly in all parts. The oak and palm, as well as the pine and walnut, are prevailing native trees, and many others have been introduced. A few of the events in the early history of South Carolina have been given in the prececding pages, in speaking 6' the first settlements of North Carolina, with which it was for a time connected. Oyster Point, near Charleston, was first occupied by a colony under William Sayle, who, having made a survey of the coast some years previously, arrived on the coast in 1670, and after several changes of place, finally chose the spot at the confluence of the Ashley and Cooper rivers, near that now covered by the large and flourishing city of Charleston. The number of the colonists was soon increased, as we have before remarked, and the name of South Carolina was conferred on the new settlement.. -__ _ _ _ _ _ 1_ 366 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. In 1674, Joseph West was elected Carolina, and their governors, had been governor, and exercised the chief author- the payment of quit-rents to the propriity for several years, with much ability. etors; and Colleton was deposed, in The principal offices were filled by the 1687, in consequence of his attempt to cavaliers, although the puritans were in enforce it. After a period of anarchy, greaternumbers; and considerable addi- Seth Sothel assumed the chief-magistions were soon made by the arrival of tracy, in the character of a friend of the English dissenters and protestants, driv- people, who unwisely trusted him after en by religious intolerance from several his misconduct in the northern colony. Roman catholic countries. They soon however found it necessary The site of the present flourishing to banish him, and elected in his place city of Charleston, was first occupied Ludwell, who had succeeded him in in 1673, by a number of Dutchmen from North Carolina. the New Netherlands, now New York, The introduction of rice into the coland, the advantages of its situation be- ony, an event of particular interest, took coming at length obvious, it was finally place during the administration of Govtaken by the colonists at Oyster Point. ernor Smith, the successor of Ludwell. The year 1680 was unfortunately sig- A vessel from Madagascar stopped at nalized by the first Indian war. A con- Charleston, and the captain presented a siderable number of prisoners were ta- bag of that grain to the governor, who ken, who were sold as slaves by the gov- distributed it among his friends, and the ernor to West India planters; for which culture of that valuable staple was thus inhuman policy he was removed by the commenced, with results most important proprietors, in 1683, and Governor Mor- to agriculture and commerce. ton was appointed his successor. An Governor Blake, a dissenter (son of Irish and a Scotch colony came out the Admiral Blake), with great liberality, same year. The latter at first settled on sustained religious liberty; but after his Port Royal island, but were soon driven death, in 1700, Governor Moore, susto Charleston by fear of the Spaniards tained by Lord Granville, one of the at St. Augustine. They afterward re- proprietors, by intrigue induced the asturned, when their settlement was laid sembly to pass a bill establishing episwastein 16S6. Governors West, Kyrle, copacy, and thus introduced religious Quarry, and Morton, in turn succeeded to persecution. The majority of the people the chief-magistracy, but in the short being dissenters, many of them prepared space of three years, gave place to Col- to leave the colony; but the house of leton, in 1686. The inhuman practice of lords having voted against the law, and kidnapping and selling Indians was al- Queen Anne having annulled it, the lowed, to the discredit of the colony. threatened evil to the colony was preA large and valuable addition was vented. made to the colony at this time, by the In 1702, England being at war with arrival of many French Huguenot fam- Spain, Governor Moore undertook a wild ilies, who, hlaving been deprived of the expedition against St. Augustine, and protection of the laws in their native sailed from Port Royal with a part of cour.try, by the revocation of the edict the force raised. Colonel Daniel and of Nantes, sought an asylum in the new his enlisted Indians, took and robbed world. Some of the principal families the town: but, while the governor was of South Carolina at the present day, waiting for cannon to batter the fortress, bear the names of some of those refu- into which the enemy had retired, two gees; and there, as elsewhere, they have Spanish ships appeared, and he made a done honor to their principles, and the hasty retreat. To meet the expense of land of their adoption, by the characters this expedition, six thousand pounds, they have sustained in the country of the first paper-money, was emitted in their choice. Carolina, which depreciated after a few One chief source of difficulty between years. the colonies of South, as well as North A happy termination was at length K ________________________________________________________________________________ _I — = —------ s-, 5~C5_4 iii; '-P---- — —C;;1L-__.1 —_==;5,* —SjCL~ — i = —-I —-— c -----------------— = — —- —-=-~1 =21- —' ~- ----;- —- 3 = —------—;----=;: I —_, ---- I C — —- ~LT;TI,s;=C i;-=i —-- - ____i -----— l —-i-i_Lf-_-Z —— —--------- -- - -—.~l —k=c-~ —--— - --— i-5L-i-i=_ —C-_;S~i -E=_=_-=_ — — = Z-i —----------- ii_ —--- - --- -r;l.TI J~-r? i —----- I, --~-i-l-i=ii — — I-= —-— = —-— = -- _ -- ,__-_---_ Li_ —-— _-= -— . —L —i=l ------ L-~ — — ~ — _ —-_ — — =_--I — —= —=_ —==---L==II-====)-=;====-_ i —i;i- -i;- -- ------— 5 —---— __-_ —~ — _ — — —-- -_ ---- -— _ --— = —L — —-— ===== = —===_C —=- - — —- —-- —. -- I --- ---— -1;11 — - - i Ej i g=51 tY1 BFEBn\l!... II!( Illli' ~~ \\11 IJ1 n II - - - C- c -- -tr —-— c~- --—; — 2 -TI= w -rD1 — rl`1 R~5---i — ~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~- C-CfaT-5 iU -I i- 9 - Pb+slAY-~IIBhJSCi-Q f~e-I-~SF= —LZICYPIIU —qCi----; ii V;DW Of Charleston. --- (r ---- ii 368 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. put to the old difficulties between the country, and the character of the climate, people and the proprietors, by the wise, combined to encourage a different sysmoderate, and coLciliatory policy of temrn of agriculture; and the state of soArchdale, a quaker, who arrived from ciety has naturally been much influenced England in 1695, with authority to bring by the circumstances which surrounded the matter to a close; he was succeeded the people. Manual labor is not rein the government by Blake; but from garded as intolerable or discreditable to his death, in 1700, under Governors the owners of the soil, who often go to Moore and Johnson, the colony was dis- the fields with their slaves, and work at tracted by wars with the Indians and their side. They do not demand so Spaniards.' In 1703, the savages com- large a number of servants, to perform menced hostilities, instigated by the the work on anupland farm as ir a lowSpaniards, but were conquered by Gov. land plantation, and more siml!iclty and Moore, who destroyed about S00. In economy are observed in the style of 1706, the Spaniards made a new attack living. upon Charleston, but were unsuccessful, Our limits do not allow us to give and retired with much loss; while the even so much as an outline of the French colony failed in an attempt on St. Au- or revolutionary wars in this state. In gustine. the latter, the people suffered exceedingThe Tuscarora and Cosee Indians as- ly from the conflict of parties nearly saulted the western settlements in 1712. equally divided, and the repeated prevA great advantage was gained over alence of the royal authority; as well as them by Col. Barnell, and a decisive vic- from the want of power or firmness tory by Col. Monro soon after, both of among the friends of the country. them being aided by large bodies of Charleston was once saved from capture, friendly Indians. The Tuscaroras were by the bravery of a few men in Fort so discouraged, that they migrated to Moultrie. Marauding parties were octhe north, in 1713, and settled on lands casionally sent out under Tarlton and granted them by their ancient allies, the others, from that city, when it afterward celebrated Five Nations, or Iroquois of lay in the power of the British'; and the present state of New York; with these were repeatedly harassed or whom they were incorporated, as the checked by small bands of patriots. sixth member of the confederacy. They Among the partisan leaders who became are now in a state of much improvement, prominent and useful in those trying under the influence of missionaries, by times, was General Marion, who estabmeans of schools and churches; and lished a high character for skill and many-of them are respectable farmers. bravery, in a long course of irregular (See Schoolcraft's Census of the N. Y. military operations in the interior. A Indians, 1846.) Their residence is a characteristic ancedote is told of him, few miles from the falls of Niagara. which does peculiar honor to the AmerAfter the departure of the Tuscaroras, ican character. the other Indians proposed terms of A young English officer, in wander. peace with South Carolina, and never ing through the woods, unexpectedly again caused any disturbance. found himself among the soldiers of The close of the wars with the sava- Marion, and was kindly received by the ges, formed an epoch quite important generous outlaw, who hospitably invited in the histories of both of the Carolinas. him to partake of his fare. His food It was not till that time that the nature was of the plainest kind, and his lodging of the interior lands became known. was upon the bare ground. The forThe. fear of Indians being passed, and eigner, fascinated by the character of no obstacle now existing to the estab- his host, remonstrated with him, in the lishing of settlements inland, consider- most'urgent terms, against the desperate able numbers of colonists came from and dangerous course of life in which Pennsylvania, and other northern parts, he had engaged, offering to procure him to occupy them. The nature of the a pardon and rewards, if he would join DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 369 the party of the king. The soldier de- unteer. To prevent a mutiny in the clined in the most spirited manner, de- camp, Williamson was obliged to declaring that he would not exchange his cline his proffered services. poverty and humble fare, with his faith- After this time, till the year 1780, no fulness to his country's cause, for all public mention is made of any of the that the king had to bestow. He then Cunninghams. They had all removed took leave of his new acquaintance, to the city of Charleston, where they whom he allowed to retire without hin- lived quietly attending to their private derance. But it is related that the in- affairs. terview so far enlightened the mind of In the spring of 1780, Charleston the young officer on the real nature of capitulated to Clinton, and nearly the the American war, and so deeply affect- whole of South Carolina returned to ed his heart, that he soon obtained leave their allegiance. In December of this to return to England, and took no further year, Patrick Cunningham was made part in the contest. colonel of the Little river regiment, and Two of the principal battles fought in he seems to have had superintendence this state, were at Columbia: one in over some of the confiscated estates. 1780, August 7, by General Gates against Robert was made a brigadier-general in Lord Cornwallis, and the other between the British service, and sent to command General Greene and Lord Rawdon, afort about seventeen miles from "NineApril 23, 1781. A third was at the ty-six," called Williams' fort, with a garCowpens. rison of 150 men. After the surprise Such was the unsettled state of South and slaughter at Hammond's store, Carolina during a great part of the war, which was about thirty miles distant, that many cases occurred, in which men many of the fugitives arrived, on the of different classes changed firom side evening of the same day, at Fort Wilto side, and many took the oath of alle- liams, on their way to " Ninety-six," the giance to the king, after having been stronghold of the British in the country. for a while on the side of the revolution. They reported that Washington was at In order to present, in a striking manner. Hammond's store, having a large force some of the events of those disastrous under him, with which he intended to times, with a picture or two of the march directly on "Ninety-six," taking scenes which they produced, we make Fort Williams on his way. These rethe following abridgment of a history ports were confirmed by many arrivals of "the Cunninghams of South Caro- of wounded men and stragglers during lina," from the appendix to the second the night, and General Cunningham deedition of the "Journal of Kirwen," by termined to retreat upon "Ninety-six," Mr. Ward. so as to increase the force of the garriThe first decided outbreak of the civil son, while there was yet time to carry war, originated in the unjustifiable ar- off as much arms and ammunition as rest and imprisonment of Robert Cun- each man could bear, lather than, by a ningham, in November, 1775, at Charles- fruitless opposition to an overwhelming ton. There he was destined to remain force, not only lose all his military stores, till the ensuing July, when the English but cause also a useless sacrifice of hiihaving been expelled fiom the country, man life. They accordingly malcned the council of safety, deeming it prudent the next morning, leaving only a few to try the effect of conciliatory measures, men to take care of such of the sick released him and the other state prison- and wounded as were unable to go with ers, without any conditions whatever as them. to their after conduct. He repaired In July, 1781, when Lord Rawdon immediately to the headquarters of an returned to "Ninety-six," from a short army under the command of General pursuit of General Nathaniel Greene, Williamson, which had been collected whom he had forced temporarily to reto repel a threatened invasion of the In- treat, he called the chief of the loyalists dians, and offered his services as a vol- together, explained to them the neces 370 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. sity of abandoning the district, and ad- " Ninety-six," in July, 17S1, those who vised them all to retreat within lines had beeni induced by General Greene's which the British troops were able to proclamations to remain, were treated maintain. Every preparation was ac- with the greatest barbarity. Among cordingly made by Colonel Cruger for the whigs who distinguished themselves immediate departure. Half of all the by their cruelties toward these helpless British force was left with him to cover *tories, were a Colonel Hays, and a Sir. their retreat, which was commenced on Turner. Complaints having been made the 8th of July. All would then have to Major Cunningham, of injuries comleft, but for a letter addressed to them mitted by these men against the innoby General Greene, in which, declaring cent wives and children of some of the himself to be their protector, he prom- soldiers of his corps, who had adhered ised all who should remain his favor and to him in every danger, he did not hessupport. Relying on these assurances, itate to leave the English camp at some were induced to remain, but soon Charleston, and to pass into district had cause bitterly to regret their deter- "Ninety-six," with a party of not exmination. ceeding one hundred and fifty men, for It would be in the highest degree un- the purpose of inflicting punishment on just to impute bad faith to General those against whose inhumanity nek Greene in this matter, but it was impos- ther age nor sex had afforded any protecsible for him to restrain his subordinates, tion. Both Turner and Hays occupied and to guard against their excesses. military "stations." Turner's was the But no sooner did he hear of them, than first encountered. It was taken, and General Sumter was despatched to re- the men put to death. On their way to store order and capture the ringleaders; Hays' "station," some of the men, led in the meantime, much mischief had on by one "Elmore," seizing the opporbeen done, and many cruel and disgrace- tunity of Cunningham's being at a conful outrages perpetrated. In Novem- siderable distance behind, proceeded to ber, General Cunningham was sent with Captain Caldwell's house, and finding 700 men into the neighborhood of Or- him at home, they killed him, and burned angeburg, where he encountered Gen- the house. When Cunningham came up, eral Sumter's brigade of equal force. he regretted what his men had done, but The latter was obliged to fall back, and it seems doubtful whether, even had he met with some loss, in consequence of been present, he could have restrained one of his officers having allowed him- them, bearing as they did, such deterself to be drawn into an ambuscade; he mined hatred toward their victim. The continued, however, to act as a check on party then proceeded on their way to Cunningham's further advance into the Hays' station. Col. Hays had been country. After the capitulation of warned of his danger the night befiore, Charleston, a great many whigs renewed by a Captain Brooks, who sent an extheir oaths of allegiance to the king, and press advising him to disband his men, yet when success appeared to favor the and leave the ground instantly, as Cunwhiog cause, they reassumed arms against ningham was in the country, had taken the British. Cornwallis issued orders Turner's station, and killed nineteen that all such, when taken, should bo put men. Hays, distrusting this informato death as rebels, who had forfeited tion, as he had just returned fiom scourtheir lives by breaking the oaths of feal- ing that part of the country, and had ty they had so short a time previously heard nothing of Cunningham, did not taken. Major William Cunningham, think fit to follow the advice, but merely then an officer in the British service, sent off to another station for assistance was one of those who received these or- in case of need. ders, and who executed them rigorously It was on a fine morning toward the on all such offenders as fell into his end of November, when, at I0 o'clock, power. the party of loyalists, led on by Captain After the retreat of the loyalists from John Hood, rode up to the station at DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 371 full gallop. This Hood was a very was no surrender made, nor quarter daring fellow. He went close to the asked, and of course such a party as piazza in front of the house, and called Cunningham's could not burden themout in a loud voice, that "none should selves with prisoners. At the time they fire from within, or they should all be were attacked, the people of that station put to death." Those within, disre- were busy cutting up some beeves of goarding this warning, fired through the which they had just plundered the tories. openings, and killed one man. Major To conceal their occupation, they had Cunningham arriving shortly afterward, fastened up blankets before the windows. sent a flag of truce with a written mes- The call for vengeance upon these masage, demanding "instant surrender," rauders, which had reached Cunningham and promising, if' they did so, "to spare and his followers in Charleston, received all their lives," -)ut declaring at the same an additional impulse firom learning their time, that "if they should resist, and so i present employment. The house was cause the spilling of his men's blood, he surrounded, and the inmates cut down would give them no quarter, but put as they attempted to fly. Only one man them all to death." Col. Hays, trusting escaped the general massacre. Seven to receive a reinforcement before the were saved at Hays' station, and were station could be carried, refused to sur- next morning set free without terms or render, and answered, "lie should hold conditions. out to the last, at the risk of the lives of On their way back to Charleston, the his whole party." After some shooting party encountered one "Oliver Toles," on both sides, Cunningham succeeded famous for stealing tory cattle. Cunin setting fire to the "station," which ningham had him hanged with a thong was of wood, b-y means of a ramrod cut from a tory cow's hide. wrapped round with tow, dipped in By this time the country had become pitch, and thrown in a blazing state on fully alarmed. Parties under Pickens, the roof. Half-suffocated, Hays and his Leroy Hammond, &c., commenced avigparty at lengtllh surrendered at discretion. orous pursuit, and before they arrived Cunningham iimmediately hanged Hays at Charleston, Ringtail's mettle was well and another man called Daniel Williams tried. Seven fresh parties started in on the pole of a fodder-stock, the former pursuit of Cunningham, one after the for his cruelty to women and children, other, but Ringtail carried his master and the latter for having murdered in safe off from the whole of them. It was cold blood his favorite follower, Thomas at the expense, however, of his own life, Ellison, whose death he had sworn to for he died twenty-three days after they avenge. Before they were dead, the reached the city, of fatigue, and the viopole broke, and Cunningham, drawing lent exertions he had been forced to his sword, slew them both with his own make. Major Cunningham, " Bloody hand. Being told that Cook, the man Bill," "the heartless, unfeeling monwho with Ritchie and Moore had ster," "the coldblooded demon," as they whipped his brother to death, was among called him, wept like a child over his the prisoners, he ordered him out from poor favorite and friend, as he was wont the rest, and slew him with his sword. to term him. He had hint buried with He then gave permission to his men allthe honors of war, the! bells of Charlesto do as they pleased with the rest. All ton were tolled and volleys were fired who had rendered themselves obnoxious over the hero of many fights. by acts of cruelty and plunder, were When the English evacuated Charlesslain without mercy. The others were ton: Major Cunningham, instead of emsaved. Each of Cunningham's men barking with them, chose to proceed to singled out whomsoever among the pris- Florida by land, accompanied by five of oners had been guilty of murdering any his followers. One day having pitched of his relatives, and killed him forthwith. his tent near the region of Greenville, The execution took place about sunset. in the fancied security of a deep wood, At the affair of Turner's station, there they laid aside their arms, unsaddled 372 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. their horses, and began to cook and get the time devoted to its preparation for ready their dinner. In the midst of this market. The inventor of this invaluable interesting occupation, they were sud- machine was, however, long unrewarded denly interrupted by the unwelcome ap- for his skill and ingenuity; for, while pearance of a Captain Butler and twenty on a tour of visitation in the south, after men of the revolutionary party. Taken it had become extensively introduced, thus by surprise, each man sprung as he was informed that it would be unsafe he was, without arms, on his unsaddled for him to prosecute a claim for violahorse, and made off, as he best could. tions of his patent. He afterward, howThe tent, arms, and everything, except ever, received sums of money from some themselves and their barebacked horses, of the states most benefited, as a small fell into the hands of the gallant captain return for the favor he had conferred and his band. The odds of twenty-one, upon them. well armed, to six unarmed men, was The nankeen cotton is of a clear and rather too great, even for Bloody Bill; lasting buff color, and has been introso, thinking in this case that discretion duced with success into the middle and was decidedly the better part of valor, northern parts of the state, where it is he and Captain Hood, who kept close much employed for home use. It is that to him, made off as fast as their horses' kind of which the nankeen cloths of legs could carry them, and were soon China are made. beyond the reach of danger. Rice, as we have before remarked, is He arrived safely in Florida, and af- one of the principal productions of South terward went to England with General Carolina. Being a water plant, its culCunningham. He was presented at ture is confined to the lowlands, to which court, and during the rest of his life, water can be brought in. It is a crop enjoyed the half-pay of a major in the which requires peculiar care and attenBritish service. tion, as may be presumed fiom the variCotton, the principal product of South ous processes necessary in its cultivaCarolina, is of three kinds: the long- tion. staple or black-seed, the short-staple, On the tide-lands, or those which lie green-seed or upland, and the nankeen. on the coast and are open to the ocean, The first of these is the most valuable so that the supply of water is obtained kind of cotton, and is raised on the small, from it, rice is sown about the 20th of low, fertile islands, and on the immedi- March, while on those inland, which are ate coast, in South Carolina and Georgia. irrigated from fresh-water streams, the The fibres are much longer and finer sowing-time is about three weeks later. than those of the other kinds, and it is The soil is turned up with the hoe or highly prized for the manufacture of p4ough, and then formed into drills or some of the finest fabrics, in Europe as trenches. From one to two bushels are well as in this country. sown upon an acre, and then the water is The second kind is extensively culti- let in, and left standing from two to four vated in the interior, and in much the days, to kill the worms, and make the greatest quantity: but the culture: and grain germinate. The water is then supply were greatly restricted for many drawn off, and the hoeing commences, years, in consequence of the difficulty which is soon repeated, the grass being of separating the seeds, to which the now picked from among the young graill fibres adhere very closely. There was by hand. The water is again let in afno other way known to effect the nices- ter the third hoeing, for ten days and sary separation, until the invention of often more, sometimes for twenty. The the cotton gin, by Mr. Eli Whitney, water is then suffered to run off by deof Connecticut, which was soon exten- grees, and the rice branches out, each sively introduced, and is now in univer- branch at length bearing an ear of from sal use, to the incalculable benefit of the 100 to 300 agraiils. Three months after culture, commerce, and manufacture, of sowing it begins to blossom, and then cotton, by greatly reducing the cost and, the floodgates are again opened and the l~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~,_..!']~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~S lr: 11, _ j. _. _ _ _._. -— ~-.. —------------ _ - _ -.... View of Kedwee Lake. = ~ _-Z — -. _ _~_ -~ —-- ~ —-- ----- -~ —-—;___ _ —— ~-~ —- --— ~r ~~ _;___~__ ~_ ~ _ —----. 374 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. water flows in, where it remains till bar- ing along the left bank, is shaded with vest, which takes place in August on the a variety of trees, presenting a diversity coast, and in September inland. But of form and foliage. A white sail, seen the great obstacle in the way of rice- at a distance, intimates that the placid culture, is the unhealthiness of the neigh- waters are sometimes disturbed by a borhood, caused by the miasma raised passing boat, while the group of visiters by the heat of the sun, which is most in the foreground, reminds us, that the deadly to white men, and very injurious beautiful scene has attracted the attenalso to the negroes. The rice-planters tion of the admirers of nature. generally leave their homes during the THE FALLS OF THE CHARASHILACsummer, and take their families to the'rAY.-This view is inserted here, to give cities, or to the uplands, to avoid this all idea of the bold and picturesque evil. scenery which abounds in some parts of From 600 to 1,500 pounds of rice are the high, western regions of the state. obtained from an acre inland, and on The stream, whose singular, aboriginal the coast fiom 1,200 to 1,500, and even name has been preserved, after flowing sometimes 2,400. some distance, meets an abrupt, mural The separation of families from each precipice in its course, and falls, in a other, in a country where the plantation beautiful sheet, interrupted by two sucsystem is universal, and the scarcity of cessive projecting shelves of the rock, villages and even smaller settlements, to the bottom of.the gulf which opens necessarily throw many obstacles in the beneath. The effect is very striking, esway of social improvement. Children pecially when viewed from below, the can hardly be collected in schools, or bare ledges in fiont, whitened by the the people in churches, while social in- glistening foam of the falling stream, tercourse must be limited, even though being crowned with foliage, and half there may be much hospitality, leis- shaded by trees, which line the banks, ure, and love of society, such as are and spring firom the crevices. generally found in this and other south- CHARLESTON is the principal Atlantic ern states. seaport of the southern states, and a Railroads.-South Carolina distin- large and flourishing city. It stands guished herself by her early enterprise, upon a peninsula, at the mouths of in constructing one of the first great Cooper and Ashley rivers, which empty railroads in the Union, on a plan whose into a spacious bay, with depth of water success has proved its sagacity. It was sufficient to form an excellent harbor. constructed across an extensive region, By the aid of several islands, advantaoffering indeed few obstacles of surface, geously situated, it is well protected from but encouraged by few of the advanta- the waves of the ocean, and fortified ges found in a thickly-populated coun- against foreign attack. The population, try. The grand object lay in opening a including the Neck, in 1850, was 42,806. communication with the Savannah river Although the site of the city is level overland, by which the delay and expo- and low, like the neighboring land, its sure of the sea voyage might be avoid- appearance is favorable firom the water. ed; and a large part of the great cotton The buildings, however, are chiefly of crops, annually gathered on its banks, wood, and the streets are narrow, exis now carried in safety and at a rapid cept the two principal ones, which cross rate to the city of Charleston, the great each other, and traverse the city in its commercial port of the south, to be length and breadth. The principal pubshipped for New York and Europe. lic buildings are the city-hall, courtKEOWEE LAKE (see page373).-This house, college, orphanhouse, medical secluded little lake lies among the wild college, guardhouse, hospital, poorhouse, stenes of a region little changed by cul- customhouse, jail, St. Andrew's hall, tivation or the neighborhood of man. and state building, with several churchA bold and wooded hill rises on the right es. The city suffered from a great conwith a sudden swell, while a path, wind- flagration in 1835, which laid waste a l::_____ ii~~~~~~~~~~~~- -- ---.7!!( II[ K-1 IN EM Falls of the Charasuiiactay. ____________c ______ _ _ ___________ 376 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA..E............t.t,,r.. Charleston HoteL considerable extent of ground. The founded in 1795, and has four professors, private houses are generally of a plain with a library of 3,000 volumes, and style, but many of them are neat and about 50 or 60 students. substantial; and the appearance of the The Medical College of the state was city is much improved by many gardens, founded in 1833, and has eight profesin which some of the finest fruits are sors and about 150 students, and enjoys cultivated, with a success which well re- a high reputation. wards the taste and care of the inhabi- The Orphan Asylum is an interesting tants. Oranges, figs, pomegranates, and highly useful institution, containing grapes, &c., abound, with a great vari- about 200 friendless children. ety of flowers and ornamental shrubs. Free Schools have been supported in Of these a charming display is annually all parts of the state, at considerable made, in the exhibitions of the horticul- expense, by the legislature. The antural society. nual appropriations of money, as early The inhabitants, who amount to about as 1828, were nearly 40,000, the num43,000, include many persons from the ber of schools 840, and of pupils 9,000. eastern states, and a considerable num- The Guardhouse, which has been menber of French. In the summer months tioned among the public buildings, is the city is the residence of many of the large, and the headquarters of the city planters from the neighboring estates guard, a part of which consists of mountand the interior, who are driven from ed men, who form the regular night pahome by the unhealthiness of the country. trol. Our engraving of Meeting street pre- The Citadel, which was formerly used sents two churches in the distance, while as the guardhouse, is now occupied as Charleston Hotel (a front view of which the state military school. is given above) is seen on the left. This The Literary and Philosophical Sociedifice has a fine colonnade of fourteen ety is an association creditable to the tall Corinthian pillars, rising from the state, and possesses avaluable collection second story, and supporting the roof of specimens in the different departments above the fourth, with a broad piazza of science. within, while the tall pediments below, The City Library contains about afford between them entrances to the 20,000 volumes. basement story from the street. The Apprentices' Library contains The Charleston College, the oldest in- about 10,000 volumes, and supplies the stitution of the kind in the state, was members with a course of lectures. &'HaitI V~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ B7 ~,t i~ i' iib l l, l (1: lili~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~utai ~, t I, " ~l I:~" ~~~~~t ~ ~ i -i'~m!i'''t i;~....i 378 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. Among the objects in the vicinity of Columbia, was founded ill 1801, by an Charleston worthy of particular atten- act of the legislature, and has been suption, is Sullivan's Island, which was the ported in a great degree by the treasury, scene of important military operations which, previously to the year 1833, had in the revolutionary war. Fort Mloul- expended about $200,000 in erecting trie, which commands the entrance of edifices, procuring a library and appathe harbor, was gallantly defended by ratus and other contingencies, besides a very feeble force, against a British an annual sum of $15,000. There are squadron sent to take the city. six tutors, about 150 students, and a The harbor now presents a scene of library of 15,000 volumes. The colmgreat activity. Besides the regularfor- mencement is held on the first Moneign and coasting vessels, which are nu- day in December. merous, steamboats and packet vessels The Southern Theological Seminary, arrive or depart. every day, chiefly for which also is situated in this place, has the transport of passengers. There is a library of 4,000 volumes, two profesa daily line of steamboats to Wilming- sors, and as yet, only a small number of ton, North Carolina, and other lines to students. It was founded in 1831. Savannah and St. Augustine. Regular C/heraw stands on the great Pedee lines of fine ships sail at stated times for river, 93 miles from Columbia, and, like New York, &c., &c. Railroad cars it, at the dividing line between the high start every day on the great track, for and the low regions, at the head of nayseveral important cities, to which the igation. The town is on a considerable branches lead, Columbia, Augusta, and elevation, about 100 feet above the water, Savannah, and onward to more distant but is small, containing only about 1,400 places beyond the last two: Mobile, inhabitants. The public buildings are Montgomery, Ala., and Memphis, Tenn. the bank, the town hall, five churches, and Stage-coaches offer the means of con- two academies. Steamboats come from veyance to other towns, near and distant. Georgetown, and stage-coaches daily to Beaufort, 75 miles fiom Charleston, Columbia and Raleigh. is situated on Port Royal river, and has Camden, 33 miles firom Columbia, one of the largest and best harbors ill stands on a plain on the left bank of the South Carolina. With a population of'Wateree, and contains several fine pubabout 1,600, it contains an academy, a lic buildings; the city-hall, courthouse, library, and three churches; and has masonic hall, bank, library, academy, communication with Charleston and Sa- and four churches. vannah by steamboats. The l3onument; in De Kalb street, COLUMBIA, 130 miles fiom Charleston, was founded in 1S25, when the corneris the capital of South Carolina, and stone was laid by General Lafayette, in stands on a large plain, about 200 feet honor of Baron De Kalb. The Indial above the level of the Congaree river, mound, a few miles west of the town, which flows at a little distance south of is said to be one of the remains of the it, crossed by a bridge. The town makes Catawbas, frmerly a powerfil ctribe. a handsome appearance, being laid out Spartansburg is a pleasant town, ill with regularity, in long and broad streets, a hilly part of the state, much resorted planted with shade trees. Steamboats to by travellers, on account,f thie waterand railroad cars keep up a daily com- ing places in the vicinity; the Limestone, munication with Charleston. Pacolet, Cedar, and Glenn Sulphur The Statehouse is a handsome edifice springs. of two stories, and 170 feet in length; Greenville stands near the bank of and the town contains two banks, a the-' Reedy river, which has several falls. atre, an academy, and several other pub- I The town is laid out with caste, and enlie buildings, including six churches of joys a healthful situation. It contains different religious denominations. The a courthouse, two academies, a library, population amounts to 6,100. and several churches. It is 107 miles The College of South Carolina, at from Columbia. L - ___ o S ____j DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 379 THIS state extending from Tennessee a[ 3 — to Florida and the ocean, and lying % ~ XLbetween South Carolina and Alabama, has the same variety of surface, soil, - and climate, as most of the other south6~~ ~~~~ ern states, but differs from the Carolinas' in having much less seacoast. Thle area of the state is 62,083 miles; and from the mouth of St. MAary's river to the line that can be drawn within its boun"-.I~~~ ~ ~The general surfbce of Georgia prescuts a great slope toward the south, of tp an cwhich the peninsula of Florida is a mnere continuation. rThe rivers which descend it flow eastward into the Atlantic, or westward into the gulf of Mexico. On the coast, the slope descends to the very level of the salt wvater, forming the rich islands and shores which produce the celebrated sea-island cotton; while in the north it presents a general elevation of 1,200 feet, which is overlooked by the still higher mountain ranges. It is remarkable that the temperature is two degrees higher on the Atlantic coast than on the gulf, where the latitude and elevation are equal; and this is proved by the vegetation, as well as by scientific experiments. The gleat length of the state, with its variety of surface, gives I Georgia a greater extent of vegetable production that any other state in the Union producing wheat in the north, and sugarcane in the south, with the various plants, in difflrent parts, between these two extremes. The nature of the surface requires us to distinguish three zones in this state, like those of North and South Carolina. The sea-border has an almost tropical climate, and is so nearly on the water level, as to be in part overflown by tlhe I daily tides; and where the soil is rich and dry enough, sugarcane flourishes, as well as the orange, date, and other palms, with a variety of plants not found 380 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. further north. The islands and shores reaching down to the coast, and lining on which the long-staple cotton is culti- the shore with a range of rough granite vated, above alluded to, are bordered by rocks. narrow, and often intricate channels, Westward, the same primitive range navigable by vessels, which appear from extends almost to Tennessee, being a distance as if moving upon the land. bounded beyond by a transition range, This species of cotton is well-known, which intervenes between it and the and most highly valued in all the ports secondary region of the Mississippi. and manufacturing cities of Europe, as The Chatahoochee riveris said to have well as of this country; and all attempts derived its name from a rock of a pecumade, at home and abroad, to produce liar appearance, which stands on its a rival have proved unsuccessful. The bank, a short distance above Columbus. length and fineness of the staple or fibre It is marked with various bright colors, fit it for some of the most costly fabrics; so intermingled as to make it appear as and the demand is always great, and the if overgrown with various plants, in full prices high. A considerable proportion bloom. Hence the Indians bestowed of this first and lowest region of the upon the stream the name which it has state, however, has a poor and even bar- retained, and which signifies the " flowerren soil. rock waters." Many parts of this fine The second district, which is both stream are interesting, on some account sandy and hilly, has considerable tracts or other, between its source, in the northi of worthless land, though other parts east quarter of Georgia, and Appalachiyield corn and cotton; but the most val- cola bay, which is four hundred and uable portion of the state is the higher thirty miles below Columbus. The sceregion beyond, which presents a more nery just above that city is remarkably varied surface, and a soil of superior wild and picturesque; rocks projecting fertility, well watered by numerous from the banks, and many rising from streams; while the sultry and unhealthy its bed, impeding the current, and inatmosphere of the lower country is re- creasing the roughness of the stream, placed by cool, pure,' and wholesome rendered hasty by the descent of the air. channel. Its course is, for several miles, The grand primitive formation of the a succession of falls and rapids, within United States commences at Milledge- four of which the declivity is more than ville, in this state, and extends, with the one hundred feet. highest ridge of the Allegany moun- Along its shores have been some of tains, through several northern ones, the most rapid improvements made in forming the boundary between the great the state. Columbus has already bewestern valley of the Mississippi, and come a considerable town, although but the eastern slope to the coast of the a few years ago an Indian village. BeAtlantic. This range is distinguished low its site many villages are to be seen through a great part of its length, by a from the steamboats, in which the travremarkable feature. It terminates ab- eller makes his way through the heart ruptly at the border of the extensive of the state. alluvial region which forms the broad THE LOVER'S LEAP.-The place bearband between it and the ocean. Thiq ing this name is a romantic spot on the character accompanies it as it passes Chatahoochee, and is represented in the I west of Washington and Philadelphia, vignette at the head of this state. It is to the Hudson river, and is attended a high and ragged cliff, which is the terwith several circumstances and effects, mination of an ascending knoll of dark of great practical importance, which rocks, and projects boldly into the river. have been referred to in our notices of One of the most beautiful scenes of nathe geography of North and South Car- ture can be viewed from this rock. In olina. Beyond the Hudson the same a straight line on the left, the river purprimitive range extends eastward, and sues its downward course to the city. spreads over the New England states, The water foams and frets over the _,_ _ — T — ~ ~~~_~ =~~~~ - ~~~~~~~~~~~-; _ --.. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- - ~ -i —_ _Tullulah Falls. ~L 82 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. rocks, in angry surges. A deep ravine THE FALLS OF TULLUL.AH.-In the forms the bed of the stream, and it is midst of the picturesque region which walled by lofty and irregular cliffs, cov- forms the county of Habersham, in the ered to) their tops with forest-trees of northeastern corner of the state, we find beautiful growth. the falls of Tullulah, twelve miles from The falls of Coweta are enveloped in Clarkesville. The road is rough, and a thick mist, which partially obscure holl alrryst dangerous to carriages; and there the surrounding objects, among which is not a single habitation to be seen, are the steamboats which constantly ply except a log house, two miles from the upon the river, and the bridge which spot, where visiters stop for refireshment. stretches across the river. A small stream, called by the Indians The river at the leap suddenly turns the Terrora, rushes impetuously fiom a so as to form a right angle with its remarkable rent in the Blue Ridge, course below, flowing in a narrow chal- which extends several miles, and everynel, which is so regularly lined on each where presents a most impressive, and side with rocks, and of so uniform a often a terrific scene. The gralite rocks width, as greatly to resemble a canal; which compose the banks are precipibut a little distance above, it again forms tous, and about a thousand feet in height; a right angle, and moves onward in its though the breadth of the narrow gulf old course. The beauty of the view between hardly exceeds that distance. which we have described, does not ex- The engraving on page 381 presents the ceed that of the other parts of the land- reader with the view firom the most fascape, for the scene on the right, and in vorable point, which is a mass of rock the foreground, is scarcelyless beautiful called "the Pulpit," that projects from and picturesque. the face of a precipice overhanging the "Dr. F., the guide and life of our narrow valley, and looking down, from party," says Richards, "remarked, that a considerable height, upon the roaring a surprising change, indeed almost ma- brook, as it pours fuiriously over three of gical, has come over the scene upon the principal cascades ini its course. which we gaze, since 1828, when the Some distance above, a steep and broIndians lighted their council fires in the ken path leads down the bank, and ladies town of Coweta, an Indian settlement, have sometimes descended to the margin where now the fair city of Columbus, of the stream, though it is not fiee from obedient to the will of civilization and danger, andthe return is laborious. The commerce, erects her noble head. Then, visiter may also find access to the foot the fields over which we have rambled of the second fall, by a path too hazardto-day, had never felt the ruthless share ous to be prudently passed, namely, by ploughing their virgin soil. The trees, creeping on his hands and knees along which now spread their bare and de- the brow of a precipice, a fall from caying arms to the sky, were'enrobed in which would be almost certain death. A their primeval greenness and strength. gentleman, as we are informed, once fell The cliff, which we now behold, had in making this experiment, plunged into rarely echoed to the woodman's axe. the stream, and was carried rapidly along Its voices were responsive to the occa- till he reached the cataract and was sional rifle of the wild hunter, and the swept down it, sixty feet, yet escaped more frequent yell of the savage, and without serious injury. roar of the wild beast." The Indian name of this stream, which The spot derives its name from an In- is written by Americans Terrora and Teldian tradition: A young woman of the lula, is said to signify terror, presenting tribe having fallen in love with a youth of a singular, though doubtless an accidena neighboring one, just before hostilities tal resemblance to its meaning in Engoccurred between them, she was pur- lish and Latin. sued as a traitress, and the lovers threw ROCK MOUNTAIN.-Within view of themselves into the stream, and were the Blue Ridge, and at a short distance carried to destruction down the falls. from thle course of the Chatahoochee,'I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~A ~~~~~~~~~~~~" —— _%_. Rock Mountain. 384 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. rises the Rock mountain, a tall and con- eminences, amid the exhilaratincg atmospicuous eminence, nine hundred feet sphere of a superior region. high, with a gentle slope toward the HIsTORY.-Georgia was one of the west, and a precipitous termination original thirteen states of the American toward the east. The road winds along Union, but the youngest in respect to the base, till it reaches the foot of the the time of settlement. Its increase in eastern bluff, where the sublime emi- population, however, has been among nence, rising far above, produces an im- the most rapid since the revolution. pression of wildness and grandeur, diffi- The first colonies were planted under cult to describe. The rock above pre- authority of a patent granted by George sents a convex surface, with a rapid II., in 1732, to twenty-one persons, who descent to the plain, channeled by nu- were called " the trustees for settling the merous ravines, down which, in every colony of Georgia," a name bestowed in storm, pour numerous torrents, whose honor of the king. The first party of channels again become as speedily dry. emigrants reached Charleston in 1733, We present the reader with a handsome under the direction of General James engraving of this mountain, on page 3S3. Oglethorpe, and the settlement of SavanOn the summit of the mountain has nah was begun in the spring. In consebeen erected an octagonal tower, built quence, however, of injudicious restricof wood, one hundred feet square at the tions laid on the colonies, the increase base, and one hundred and sixty-five of the population was checked, and its feet high. This singulai construction, prosperity retarded for some years. so convenient to the visiter, and eleva- Unfortunately, this part of the country ting his eye to a superior sphere, has was easily accessible to the Spaniards, already stood several years, although who claimed it as their own; and thefear it rests upon the bare rock, without any- of invasion, as well as the actual atthing except its own weight to keep it tempts made to gaip possession, greatly in its position. In the lower part is a retarded the increase of the coloiiy. small hotel, which contains even a piano. Retaliation on the part of the English The view firom the top of the tower is served to increase the difficulties of the very extensive and interesting, ranging community. In 1742, General Ogleover a long extent of the blue ridge, thorpe made his unsuccessful attempt to with varied tracts of country below, capture St. Augustine; and two years chiefly covered with forest. after, the Spaniards invaded the colony, The Cross-Roads are two remarkable but were in their turn defeated. The fissures in the rocks, which cross each Georgians were thus burdened by heavy other at a point where they are five feet debts, like the Carolinians, and by the wide; and at that spot they are covered same causes, from which they were soon by a large, flat rock, twenty feet in able to recover, in consequence of the diameter. more favorable circumstances in which The Fort.-The whole summit of the they were placed by coming under the mountain is enclosed by the remains of royal government, as a colony of the an ancient entrenchment, of the history king. This occurred in 1752. of which the Indians disclaimed all A general representative assembly knowledge, except that it was of a date was formed in 1755; and in consequence prior to that of their ancestors. of the cession of Florida to Great BritThe circumference of Rock mountain ain, the country between the Altamaha is about six miles, and the height of its and St.?Iary's rivers was ceded, much summit 2,230 feet above the level of the to the advantage of Georgia. Sympocean. It exhibits, in different parts, a tons of increasing prosperity soon begreat variety of vegetation; plants, flow- gan to appear; but the Cherokees, a ers, and berries of many diffbrent kinds, powerfutl ald warlike nation of Indians, presenting themselves to the visiter, as occupied the western and northern parts lie winds along its base, climbs the of the territory; and several others were rocky sides, and wanders over its lofty I near them; and a period of danger and I[-~~~~~~~-q ulask Monument —C hr-~' —_isChch.Sana. 386 DESCRIPTION OF THE 6SATE OF GEORGIA. wars soon commenced, which caused 1800, it has been said, "know inot a great sufferings, and greatly checked the letter." The baptists and methodists increase and extension of the settle- are the mostnumerous denominations inll ments. the state, and after them the presbyteDuring the revolution, Georgia suf- rians and episcopalians. fered in common with the country at Printing was first introduced into large; and since the close of that war, Georgia in 1762, by James Johnston, a she has ceded to the general government Scotchman, who commenced the publia larger extent of territory than any of cation of a newspaper, called "The her sisters, except Virginia, embracing Georgia Gazette," in the followin- year. all Alabama and Mississippi, north of The first number of it wvas published latitude 31~: about 100,000 square miles. on the 17th of April. He continued The first constitution was adopted in the publication tWenty-seven years, after the year 1777, and the second in 1785. which it was published by his succesThe latter was amended in 1789; and sors. This was the only newspaper the present was adopted in 1798. The printed in the limits of Georgia beffle senators and legislators are elected an- the revolution. nually. A senator must be twenty-five SAVANNAH.-This chief town and pr;nyears of age, nine years a citizen of the cipal seaport of Georgia is situatel on United States, one year a resident of the the western bank of the river of the district, and the owner of an estate of same name, fifteen miles fiom its mouth, five hundred dollars, in the county, or of one hundred miles southwest from taxable property of one thousand dol- Charleston, and one hundred and sixtylars. Each county sends one senator. seven miles southeast by east from MilThe number of representatives is pro- ledgeville; in l titude, 320 5', and west portioned to the number of whites, and longitude, 40 I'. Population 30,000. thiee fifths of colored persons, of whom The streets of Savannah are sandy, an enumeration is made every seven but shaded by China-trees, and tile years. Each county has one member, houses are generally of wood. There but none can elect more than seven. A are eighteen public squares in different representative must be twenty-one years parts of the city. The commercial adold, seven years a citizen of the United vantages which it enjoys, fiom the abnnStates, three years an inhabitant of the dant crops of cotton, &c., raised along I state, a resident in the county the pre- the banks of the river, and the firee acceding year, and owner, for a year, of a cess of ships drawing rcnt more than freehold of two hundred and fifty dol- twelve or thirteen feet of water, renlars, or five hundred dollars' worth of dered it anl important town, even while taxable property, cleared of incum- the place was made unhealthy by the brance. practice of wet culture on the neiglllhborThe governor is elected by the assem- ing rice-plantations, which has been bly, for two years. He must be thirty- abandoned since the year 1817, in consix years old, have been a citizen of the sequence of an act of the legislature, United States for twelve years, six years passed at that time. In 1820, Savannah a citizen of Georgia, and the owner of suffered to the amount of four millions, five hundred acres of land in Georgia, from a devastating fire, which swept and four thousand dollars in other prop- irresistibly over a large part of the city. erty. A voter must be a citizen, twen- Care has been taken to embellish the ty-one years of age, and a payer of city, by providing abundance of shady taxes. trees for the numerous public squares. Education was quite neglected in Among these the celebrated Pride-ofGeorgia before 1811, about which time India is conspicuous, whose graceful academies sprang up in almost every form and delicate foliage, with its semitown. Since that period, few persons tropical aspect, render it peculiarly aphave grown up in entire ignorance, I propriate to such a use. Among the while thousands, born before the year i houses, the city now presents a corsid ~ ul ~~lllll li~~ l~~1 l itIittl CD ~~~~~II a~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~81~~~~~~~~~I 1 iiliii jI ii~~~( ii -- _,i~~~9mv i 388 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. erable number of handsome, well-built cipal streets are one hundred and sixty dwellings, while the following are the feet wide, and run north and south, principal public edifices: the arsenal, crossed by twelve others, ninety-nine exchange, courthouse, barracks belong- feet wide. The academy, market, schooling to the United States, theatre, hos- houses, five banks, and five churches, pital, market, banks, public library, are among the public buildings, and the three academies, thirteen churches, &c. place contains a number of cotton-facThe Pulaski Monument was erected tories, mills, &c. The population is in the year 1825, in memory of Generals about eight thousand. A flourishing Pulaski and Greene, of the revolutionary trade in cotton employs several steamarmy. It is a neat and simple obelisk boats, and it is a place of much busiof white marble, fifty-three feet high. ness, although so late as 1827 it was a The base of the pedestal is ten feet four council-town of the Coweta Indians, and inches by six feet eight inches, and its the commissioners appointed to apporheight thirteen feet, the needle which tion the lots of the city began their work surmounts the pedestal being thirty- so late as the 10th of July, 1828. The seven feet in height. It is built upon Cowetas, who inhabited this region, and a platform of granite, three feet above made this spot the chief settlement, the ground, and the whole is enclosed I were one of the seven tribes of the by a cast-iron railing. It has a very Creek nation. advantageous position, in the middle of The Courthouse is a fine building, with one of the public squares. See p. 385. a basement, two stories, and a steeple.MILLEDGEVILLE.-This town is the one hundred and ten feet high, and two capital of the state. It stands on the Grecian porticoes on the front. southern side of the Oconee, one hun- The Planters' and Mechanics' Bank dred and fifty-eight miles fiom Savan- has a portico, in the stvyle of the celenah, on an irregular surface, at the head brated Temple of the Winds, in Athens. of steam navigation. The streets cross,The private buildings of Columbus each other at right angles; those run- display a good degree of taste, as do the fing in one direction lying parallel to the decorated yards and flower-gardens river. At the distance of three quarters which are here and there displayed.,f a mile from its banks is a fine public The Cotton Warehouse, on the bank iquare, on the summit of a hill, which is of the river, is one of the largest in adorned with the statehouse. This is a Georgia, an extensive fireproof building, ouilding in the Gothic style; and the covering an acre and three quarters. In representatives' hall, which'is sixty feet the year 1838, 42,000 bales of cotton in length, and fifty-four in breadth, were shipped here, and the amount has is ornamented with full-length portraits increased considerably of Generals Oglethorpe and Lafay- ATHENS, on the right bank of the -atte, while those of Washington and Oconee, contains about three thousand Jefferson are in the chamber of the inhabitants, and has a pleasant and senate. healthy situation, seventy five miles from In different parts of the city are the Milledgevifle. It is the seat of arsenal, magazine, market, academy, The Georgia University, founded in three banks, three churches, and the 1785, which has six professors and about governor's residence. eighty students, with a large philosophCOLUMBUS, two hundred and eighty- ical apparatus, and libraries containing four miles from Savannah, stands on the about twenty thousand volumes. left bank of the Chatahoochee, at an The railroad affords the means of a elevation of sixty feet above the water. daily communication with Augusta. The falls, which extend for three miles MADISON SPRING.-This fashionable above the town terminate steamboat resort is named after the county in which navigation. They are a succession of it is situated, and is found in the midst 1 rapids, descending, in all, one hun- of a wild regionl, near Oconee river, dred and eleven feet. The two prin- seven miles distant from Danielsville, -— ii -.==- —3 ——;-=1 —— =-;;- L- ----- =-li -; —--— TJSt —L- — UU- _-L — r=-=I-'-========- _. -I.__.I _ _ _______-,___,_g —-n ti"-"--="""L-"""""" ~ —---- --—' _;;;_ —==L —-- —_-=-_Z_ = LL_~~-_ —_rl_ - -— =-=;- J I-.;-=;i;-;-s — ------—,,,-=-2,_lii 5Sif )i- —---------------— U:: w in:;:: j:l (j VV; 117. L.' J )4~ i! bbbbbbbbbbbbb,r Sii vl~/i' ~, -? -- 1-I I - - c --I ~~n View of Colunzbus. 390 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. ] L Entrance to the Madison Springs. tile county town. It is convenient to go An institution for female edutation in a stage-coach from Athens. The na- was opened here in 1839, under the ture of the water has been known about name of the Georgia Female College, twenty years, but the place has but re- which is in a flourishing condition, havcently attracted much notice, since ac- ing about one hundred pupils, under the commodations have been provided for charge of a president, three professors, visiters. A large hotel has been erected, and several other instructors. surrounded by small tenements, for the AUGUsTA. -This town is situated on summer residence of families; and ail the Savannah river, one hundred and avenue, several hundred yards in length, thirty-five miles from its mouth, and one leads through the forest to the spring, hundred and twenty north of Savannah. which is provided with conveniences, as It is a place of much trade, receiving represented in our engraving. The wa- large quantities of produce from the ter, which flows from a marble curb, is neighboring country, especially cotton, chalybeate, in a greater degree than the and being connected with Charleston by springs of Cheltenham and Birighton, in the great railroad, which extends beyond.England. A sulplhur spring has been it, still further into the interior. During discovered at three miles' distance. a certain part of the year, the river is MACON is already a considerable and navigable by steamboats. flourishing place, with seven thousand The streets are regular, and planted inhabitants, although so lately as the with shade-trees, and the houses are year 1822 there was but a single house generally of brick. Among the public on the spot. The situation is favorable buildings are the courthouse, city-hall, for business, being at the head of steam medical college, hospital, theatre, arnavigation on the Ocmnulgee river, which senal, female asylum, several academies flows through the middle of it, and is and churches. crossed by a fine bridge, three hundred The M1edical College of Georgia.and eighty feet long. A great quantity The first proposal to establish a medical of cotton is annually received at this school in this state was made by Dr. place, and sent down the river, while Antony, in 1827; but active measures there is a daily communication with Sa- for it were not taken until the year 1830, vanilah by the railroad. when the legislature passed a bill, incor Medical College of Georgia. 392DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA.1 392 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. I porating this institution, and authorizing of whom one hundred and nineteen rethem to confer the degree of Doctor in ceived degrees. Medicine on persons who have complied GEORGIA FEMALE CoI.LEGE.-The vawith the requisitions of the most respec- rious religious denominations in this table institutions in the United States. state, by combined contributions, having In 1835, the faculty addressed a circular collected more than six hundred thcu. to all the medical schools, proposing a sand dollars, for the support of educaconvention in Washington city, wh-ch tion, which has been appropriated to has not been held, but the honor of the different institutions, in all parts of the project is due to this state. In 1833, a state; and this college, so creditable to donation of $10,000 was made by the the intelligence of Georgia, and so well legislature, and another of $5,000, bythe calculated to confer upon it the highest city council of Augusta, on condition benefits, owes its existence to the enthat the college should supply the hos- lightened spirit and indefatigable labors pital, for ten years, with attendance and of a few individuals in the city of Macon. medicines. These sums enabled the Twenty thousand dollars were raised, trustees to erect the fine edifice which to found a female college, in conformity they at present occupy. It is a large with a resolution passed at a public structure, in the Doric style, with ac- meeting, and soon after, placed at the commodations and arrangements well direction of the annual conference of the adapted to the nature of the institution, methodist episcopal church. In 1836, and which has been pronounced by good the legislature incorporated the trustees judges, equal, in this respect, to any appointed by that body, and granted other in the Union. It enjoys a fine and twenty-five thousand dollars to the inpleasant situation, admirably adapted to stitution. its use, in the vicinity of the town, on a The college edifice enjoys a commandlot appropriated to it by the trustees of ing situation, on a fine eminence between Richmond academy. Macon and Vineville, overlooking the In 1834. ten thousand dollars were former (which lies upon the plain beraised by the faculty, who sent one of neath), and the surrounding hills, beauthe professors to Europe, to purchase tified by many neat and tasteful edifices. an anatomical museum, chymical appar- On the west is the village of Vineville; atus, and surgical cabinet. In 1835, the and on the north Fort Hawkins shows legislature conferred on the institution its remains, consisting of old blocka second grant, amounting to about houses and trenches, while the forests twenty-five thousand dollars, which af- spread far away on the east, and bound forded them a fund for contingent ex- the distant horizon. The college buildpenses. The first class was instituted ing is one hundred and sixty feet long, 1833-'4, and amounted to thirty; and and sixty in breadth, four stories high the members have been increasing al- in the middle, with a cupola. Four most every year, althoughthe institution large columns, in the centre of the suffered a severe reverse, in consequence front, support a roof over the entrance; of the fatal epidemic of 1839, when, and the building contains fifty-six rooms among many other losses, the valuable Most of those in the basement are occu life of' Dr. Antony fell a sacrifice to his pied as recitation-rooms. The stew. humane exertions for the benefit of the ard's apartments are also below, wheie sidk. some of the officers have accommoda The lectures begin on the second tions. The chapel is forty feet by sixty, Monday in November, and close early on the second story, where are also the in March; and the expense of the whole library, music-room, and president's course, including practical anatomy and apartments. The young ladies attendmatriculation, is only twenty-five dol- ing this institution provide their own lars. In the first ten years of its exist- furniture; and their lodging-rooms, ence, the medical college of Georgia had which occupy the third and fourth stothree hundred and ninety-seven students, ries, accommodate four each. ~~~~~~-~~~~~~~~I _____________________________________________________ ________ ____________________________ -~~~~~~~~~~~~~Oltp University 394 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. The yard extends over four acres; dent stands on the south side of the and the rest of the section of land de- campus. voted to the institution is judiciously The institution commenced operation left covered with groves of fine oak- in January, 1838, with six professors; trees, so that ample opportunities are and the first class was graduated in 1839. afforded for agreeable and healthful ex- It is under the direction of the pieshyercise. Six acres of ground opposite terian synod of South Carolina, and have been reserved for a botanical gar- Georgia, but its advantages are free to den-the gift of the city council. all. There are two sessions in the year: The college was opened in 1839, and one from the first Monday in January has a presidenlt, three professors, with to the second Wednesday in May; after the principal of the primary depart- which is a vacation of four weeks. ment, professors of music and drawing, Commencement is held on the Monday a matron, and a superintendent of do- succeeding the second Monday in Nomestic economy. The methods of in- vemher. struction are thorough and practical. Oglethorpe university owes its origin The regular course includes the French to two manual labor schools, under the language; but Latin, Greek, and Span- Education society of Georgia. That ish, are taught, only in extra classes. association was dissolved, and in 1835, There is but one term in the year: from the trustees of the Medway seminary, the first Monday in October, for ten which was one of those institutions, months. Pupils are not received under offered it to the Hopewell presbytery, twelve years of age. who received it, and soon constituted it OGLETHORPE UNIVERSITY. —This in- a college, under their government and stitution is situated at Medway, in Bald- control, with a charter from the legislawin county, on account of its central ture. That charter forbids any shop to position, in a pleasant and healthful re- be opened, within a mile and a half of gion, being a place easily accessible firom the institution, on penalty of five hunall directions. The spot is elevated, on dred dollars, or more; while deeds of a ridge lying east and west, two miles university lots provide for the forfeiture and a half south of Milledgeville, and to it of lots onil which such shops may ending at the bluff on Oconee river, on stand. This feature has since been inwhich are the ruins of old Fort Wilkin- trod uced into other charters, and has son. The foundation of the edifice is doubtless prevented many of the evils on a level with the top of the cupola of to which other literary institutions are the statehouse; and the view is exten- often liable. sive on every side, embracing an undu- THE FALLS OF THE TOWALIGA, eight lating surface of twenty miles round, miles from Indian springs. This picincluding Milledgeville. turesque scene is presented by the little The erection of the principal building river whose name it bears, at the spot was begun in 1836, and completed in where it pouis down a rocky ]edge, 1838. It is of brick, two stories high, which there disturbs its generally gentle with abasement, in the Doric style; and course, and gives it an aspect of wildbeing painted white, and of great extent, ness, elsewhere foreign to its shores. makes a strikingappearance. The chapel The Towaliga has an Indian name, of occupies the centre, forty-eight feet by uncertain import, pronounced with the sixty, with a colonnade and vestibule. accent on the last syllable. The stream The wings are each thirty feet in front, has its origin in Henry county, and purand three stories high, with professors' sues a course of seventy miles, to the and recitation rooms, while other rooms Ocmulgee, of which it is a tributary. are appropriated to the library, museum, Just before it reaches the falls (which apparatus, &c. Two ranges of small are represented in the engraving on buildings stand at some distance on each page 123), the bed has a rapid descent side, each containing two students' for some distance, where the surface of rot -ns; while the house of the presi- the water is broken in rapids, overlooked I. F'-7 ~ Falls of Towaliga. 396 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. from the summit of a hill, over which however, been destroyed or driven away passes the road leading to the spot. A by the hunters. mill occupies one of the banks; and a TOCKOA FALLs. —The most remarklofty bridge, erected across, was partly able waterfall in this state is that of the destroyed, a few years since, by a Tockoa creek, which flows from the flood. southern extremity of the Alleganies, The falls, seen from below, make an at Cunawhee mountain. It descends impressive appearance. The breadth of one hundred and eighty-seven feet, from the bed is there about three hundred a precipice, in a narrow stream, twenty feet, and a mass of rock, at the brow of feet in breadth, which, in the rainy seathe first precipice, divides it into two son, forms an unbroken sheet of foam to sheets, which descend perpendicularly the bottom. At the ordinary height cf about fifty feet, in beautiful foam, made water, the supply is so small, that it is in the course of its tumultuous passage said to be dissipated in vapor before it down the rapids. Here it is received reaches the level below. by a deep gulf, which suddenly checks REMARKABLE INCIDENTS IN THE HIsits fury; but, before it has time to re- TORY OF GEOR.GIA.-As we have not cover its tranquillity, it reaches the brow room to give a connected history of this of the second rapids, down which it hur- state, it may be interesting to our readries, with roar and turbulence, a distance ers if we recount a few incidents relaof two hundred feet, and then pours ting to some of its most important over the second fall, in a current broken periods. into several cascades, when it soon sub- Yamacraw, the Indian name of the sides, below, to comparative quietness. bluff on which Savannah now stands, The height, roughness, and thick shade was the spot on which the treaty was of the banks, greatly increase the effect held with the Creek Indians by General of the scene. The reader may form Oglethorpe, at which the first tract of some correct conception of the interest- land was ceded to him. The place was ing spot, by a glance at tile accompa- then occupied by a small tribe of that nying engraving, which is copied fiom nation, called the Yamacraws. a print in that elegant work, " The Sce- In 1733, General Oglethorpe brought nery of Georgia," to which we have out from England a band of one hunbeen indebted for many interesting facts dred and thirteen colonists, who landed on these pages. Thedrawingwas made at Charleston. Theywere there kindly from the northern bank of the stream, a assisted, and furnished with boats, &c., spot rather difficult of access, and not by which they were enabled to proceed easily attained by many spectators, who to the place of destination, and soon generally find it more convenient to con- reached the Savannah river. The foltent themselves with a view from the lowing year they were joined by five or opposite side. There are, however, six hundred more, who were provided many favorable points of view, both near with tracts of wild land, but soon proved and more distant, especially from some ill-qualified for the task they had underof the rude rocks which border and taken, and ere long difficulties arose, overhang the water, in different parts of as many of them had been collected its romantic and terrific course. from among the poor and idle populaA short distance below the falls, a tion of European cities. The trustees little island occupies the middle of the of the colony therefore took measures river, dividing it into two currents, which to secure emigrants of a better class; are narrow, but rapid. This vicinity and, in 1735, about four hundred arrived was formerly a favorite resort of the l in Georgia, from Scotland, Switzerland, deer, which visited it in considerableI and Germany. numbers, to feed on a peculiar kind of Mary Musgrove was the name of an long and delicate plant, resembling moss, Indian woman, or half-breed, who renwhich grows to the length of two feet, in dered material service to General Oglethe sluices of the falls. They have, thorpe, in promoting his plans for the ~= —-- -- - - - Z - - Tockoa Falls 398 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. benefit of the colony. She was able to pursue. The militia, however, were It speak both languages, and appears to soon under arms, and Captain Noble have been a woman of much address, Jones, by his resolute conduct, induced acting as interpreter at several import- the Indians to lay by their weapons, when ant treaties which terminated favorably. Bosomworth, with his queen, escorted In gratitude, he bestowed upon her a bythe chiefs and their warriors, solemnly hundred pounds a year, in addition to paraded the streets, and struck the feethe presents with which he had secured ble colonists with fear. They, however, her interest. Fifty Creek chiefs pre- made such fair promises, that their arms sented themselves at the treaty of Savan- were returned. Bosomworth was soon nab, at which the great land-grant was after seized and confined, which so irriobtained, and among these was Tomo- tated his wife that she threatened venchichi, who, in the name of the others, geance, and excited the savages to hosthus addressed Oglethorpe, in reply to tile demonstrations. By great prudence the general's speech, in which he had and coolness, the governor succeeded in dwelt on the power and wisdom of the tranquillizing them, two or three sucBritish king:- cessive times, though Mary and Mal"Here is a little present. I give you atchie as often again enkindled their a buffalo-skin, adorned on the inside passions, and misled their judgment. with the head and feathers of an eagle, The storm was at length dispelled by which I desire you to accept, because the decision of Captain Noble, who enthe eagle is an emblem of speed, and tered the council-room with a guard, the buffalo of strength. The English and made the Indians surrender. Boare swift as the bird, and strong as the somworth was subsequently induced to beast; since, like the former, they flew lay aside his ridiculous claims, and reover the vast seas to the uttermost parts ceived a pardon, while the Indians deof the earth, and like the latter, they parted in peace. It was not long, howare so strong that nothing can withstand ever, before Bosomworth presented his them. The feathers of the eagle are case in England, which remained pendsoft, signifying love; the buffalo's skin ing in the courts for twelve years. The is warm, and signifies protection: there- result was, that the island of St. Cathfore I hope the English will love and arine was granted to him and his wife, protect their little families." of which they took possession. She, But, although this treaty terminated however, died soon after. in so amicable a manner, difficulties, ere In the year 1778, Savannah was occulong, began to arise, being fomented by pied by General Howe, with six hundred one of those restless, unprincipled, and regular troops and a few militia, when dangerous men, so often the bane of it was attacked by a British army of six young colonies. Thomas.Bosomworth, thousand men, under Lieutenant-Colonel the chaplain in Oglethorpe's regiment, Campbell, who had arrived from New for his own selfish and ambitious views, York by water. The defenders were in wrought upon a petty prince, named too small force effectually to resist such Malatchie, king of Frederica (near Sa- numbers, but did not yield without a vannab), till he persuaded him to as- severe struggle. An obstinate battle slume the ridiculous title of Emperor of was fought, in which our countrymen the Creek Nation. Bosomworth then lost about six hundred men killed, and married Mary Musgrove, and set up for thirty-eight officers and four hundred her a claim to the empire, on pretence and fifteen soldiers prisoners, with fortyof her being the elder sister of Mal- eight guns, twenty-three mortars, and atchie. The Indians were incited to all the vessels lying in the river. support her, and escorted her to Savan- The enemy remained in possession of nah, to establish her claim. the city until 1779, when Count d'EsThe president of the colony, and his taing, commander of the French fleet, council, were alarmed at their appr:iach, then in the West Indies, being invited and at first knew not what course to by General Lincoln to make a combined DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 399 attack upon Savannah, proceeded to the lighted them all at once, in the evening, river with twenty ships-of-the-line, two presuming the Englishmen would misof fifty guns, and eleven frigates. Lin- take them for the camp-fires of a large coln, with the militia of Georgia and body of troops. In order to counteSouth Carolina, proceeded toward Sa- nance such a deception, they resorted to vannah; but, before his arrival, Count other measures which their ingenuity d'Estaing, after demanding a surrender, dictated; and then, in due form, and in had granted a suspension of hostilities a peremptory manner, summoned the for twenty-four hours, before the expi- enemy to surrender. ration of which, a reinforcement of eight Colonel John White, of the Georgia hundred troops arrived at Savannah, line, and Captain Elholm, were the leadfrom.Beaufort, -who encouraged the gar- ers.in these movements, which required rison to reject the demand of a surren- so much skill and caution; and with der. The siege of the town was there- such success did they perf)rm their fore commenced on the 4th of October, parts, that the British were completely with thirty-seven cannon and nine mor- blinded, and their commander, "to pretars, on land, and fifteen cannon from vent the effusion of blood," promised to the water. An assault was, however, surrender. It was now extremely imdetermined on; and on the 9th, at day- portant for the captors to avoid the exbreak, a strong force attacked the Spring posure of their weakness; and Colonel Hill battery, which was taken, and held White represented to Captain French, for a short time, but soon recovered, and that he was afraid to bring forward his the invaders retreated, abandoning the troops, because they were exasperated enterprise. A regular siege, it is be- against the invaders of their country, lieved, would have soon reduced the and offered to give him three faithful place; but the French officers objected men, as guides, who would conduct to hazarding their fleet so long on the them to safe and comfortable quarters. coast. The offer was thankfully accepted; and Coult Pulaski, a Polander, distin- the Englishmen marched off in haste, Cguished by his birth, and exploits in leaving the colonel, with his whole "reEurope, who had recently been made a serve" (his servant and one other man), brigadier-general in our army, received to bring tip the rear. To perform this a mortal wound in that engagement. last-remaining duty required a little In memory of him, Congress ordered time, for he immediately hurried away the erection of the monument, which is to call out the militia; but he soon foldescribed on page 388. lowed on, and made his appearance We will close our brief account of with a respectable force, which had been that interesting period, by mentioning a collected rather later than the enemy remarkable exploit performed by six supposed. Ameri'cans, just before the attack on General Lee declares, that this exploit Savannah. It is equally remarkable for was of so extraordinary a nature, that he the sagacity of the plan and the cool- could never have persuaded himself to ness and bravery of the execution. record it, if it had not received general On the Ogeeche river was a British credit, without ever having been contraforce of about one hundred and forty dicted.* men, of whom one hundred were under Captain French, of the royal army, and forty were sailors, composing the crews * For the pictures which accompany this article, of five small vessels lying in that stream, we are indebted to the pencil of T. Addison Richards, Esq. the first, if not the only artist, who has four of them armed, and the largest with sought themes of study amid the beautiful scenery of fourteen guns. The six men above re- the south. It is to his works, which have been enferred to, formed an ingenious plan for graved on steel, wood, and stone, and widely circuferred to, formed an ingenious plan forlated, that we owe our acquaintance with the beaucapturing this force. They made prep- tiful mountains, valleys, and cascades of the southern arations for kindling numerous fires, at states No work of the kind, in this country, has equalled in beauty his interesting publication, " Geor. short distant es from each other, and gia Illustrated." 400 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. Among the numerous men who per- as well as national, was the principal formed important parts in the early pe- motive for the first settlements made in r.ods of our colonial history, there are the territory of Georgia. A charter was few more remarkable for activity, enter- therefore granted to Sir James Ogleprise, and purity of principle, than thorpe, and several other noblemen and Oglethorpe. He performed a variety gentlemen, in 1732, of the country lyof duties, and generally with equal skill ing between the Savannah and Altamaand success.. As circumstances requir- ha rivers; and they proposed to form a ed, he could confer with the friends of colony of criminals taken from the prisAmerica in England, on plans for plant- ons, on the plan afterward practised ing colonies, then, collecting bands of on a larger scale in New Holland. The emigrants, and placing himself at their project was approved by the benevolent, head, conduct them across the Atlantic, and a considerable sum of money was and transport them to the places assign- collected in different parts of England, ed for their habitation. He would con- while the house of commons granted, at duct negotiations with the savages, pro- several times, appropriations to the vide for the sustenance and defence of amount of thirty-six thousand pounds, the community, encourage his compan- to the enterprise. TWe have alleady ions under adversity, protect them from given a brief outline of some of the invaders, and even march, with a band principal events, and shall now only atof white men and Indians, through the tempt to supply some of the important wilderness, to seize the post of a dan- particulars, not included in our cursrory gerous enemy, or to intimidate them, glance. when an attack was to be apprehended. On his first visit to Savannah, OgleOglethorpe combined in his character thorpe in a short time erected a fort, much strength of purpose, and boldness formed his colonists into a military comr and perseverance, with philanthropy pany, consummated his treaty with the and active zeal. Had he been of a less Creek Indians, and, appointing two of manly disposition, he might have chosen his officers, named Scott and St. Julian, a less exposed and less dangerous thea- to exercise the government of the colotre to act upon; but the peculiar posi- ny during his absence, returned to Engtion of the country now forming the land. He gave them charge to make a southern part of Georgia, offered attrac- treaty with the Choctaws, which they tions for such a spirit as he possessed. successfully accomplished, and thus seIt was wholly unoccupied by civilized cured the friendship and protection of men; for, although it was included in another powerful native nation, of great Heath's old patent, that instrument had importance in the infancy of the colony. been declared void, on account of the The principal chief of the Creeks acfailure to fulfil the terms on which it companied the governor to England, had been granted, viz., that settlements with his wife and several of his inferior should be made on the land. But the sachemrs. They were received with I time had now arrived, when it was high- much honor in London, being introduly important that some of the principal ced to the king and nobility, and enriclimilitary points should be occupied: for ed with numerous presents, estimated the Spaniards in Florida, and the French to be worth four hundred ]pounds. Afin Louisiana, had the power to traverse ter a stay of four months they returned it at will, and were at liberty to enter it with Oglethorpe, in a vessel which with whatever force they could com- brought out a new band of colonists. mand, and might soon annex it to their Among the numerous emigrants who own territories. soon after arrived from Germany and The exposed situation of that district Switzerland, were several of the associexcited much solicitude in England; ates of the celebrated Moravianmissionand to interpose a protecting power be- ary, Count Zingendorf; and a no less fatween it and the rival Spanish neigh- mous individual of that age, John WVesbors, whose antipathies were religious ley, came from England in the same DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 401 year, 1735. The character and history smaller towns; and no great number of,| of this mnan, then in his youth, are wor- children are cast off wholly unprovithy of a much more particular notice ded for. Public or private charity steps than can be given in a work like the in for their relief. present. It is pleasing to recur to this A fort was soon built at Augusta, for early enterprise of'one so eminently the defence of the Savannah river; a distinguished by Christian philanthropy, second at Frederica, which was a condirected to a class of men, and a region siderable work with four bastions; and of the New World, presenting so little a third on Cumberland island, to comto incite the interest of any person not mand the entrance of Jekyl sound, the devoted to doing good. only ship passage to Frederica. These John Wesley,withhis brother Charles, were constructed at the expense of parhiad become known to Oglethorpe, in liament, which appropriated ten thouLondon, in consequence of their labors sand pounds for their erection and mainin the prisons, for the instruction and tenance. Before they were completed, improvement of criminals. They had a message was received fiom the Spanformed a society, in company with ish commander in Florida, that a conGeorge'Whitfield and a few pious young ference was desired with the governor, men, while in college, for that truly be- and the news came that a reinforcement nevolent object, in which they persever- had arrived from Havana. A peremped, in spite of the jeers of some of their tory demand was made for the immediacquaintance, who called it in contempt ate evacuation of the territory south of the Godly Club. What important ef- St. Helena sound, with a threat that f'ects have resulted from that associa- the king of Spain would seize his own tion! It may have been the original possessions by force of arms in case of model of those societies since foiirned refusal. Oglethorpe, being unprovided for kindred purposes, especially of those with adequate means as well as authorfor the reformation of' delinquents and ity, immediately embarked for England, criminals, whose influence has been so and there received the appointment of salutary and extensive. major-general of all the fi rces of South It was through Oglethorpe's persua- Carolina and Georgia, and a regiment sion that the two Wesleys wereinduced of military emigrants, with whom he to visit the new colony; and they were hastened back. accompanied by three or four of their On his arrival, he learned that the associates, and a company of three hun- Spaniards had been busy in attempts to dred other persons, including a hunidred draw off the Indians from his interest, and seventy more Moravians. After a and that some of the Creek chiefs were short period of religious exertions, he then at St. Augustine. But he had the returned to England: and Whitfield addiess to countbract the enemy; he soon after came out, with similar objects.. sent invitations to the Indians to visit He proposed the foundation of an ori- him at Frederica, whither they repaired phan asylum, which, as appears from his after their return fiom Florida, and by published letters, was a fhavorite plan, his influence were easily confirmed in and pursued with his characteristic their friendly relations with the English. zeal and perseverance. It exists at the Lut it was not long before alarming )present day; but it has never proved symptoms of treachery were discovered successful in the degree anticipated by amiollg the English troops. One of the its founder. This may be partly ac- soldiers had served at Gibraltar, and counted for from the fact, that compaia- there acquired an acquaintance with the tively few orphans, in our country, need Spanish language through the medium I such provision for their support. Vice, of which he had held a traitorous comrather than the mere loss of parents, re- munication with the enemy; and, after duces children to destitution and dis-being cor'upted himself, he had found i tress; for the means of living are easi-means to excite disaffection among his Ivly obtained in our new settlements and comrades. The first intimationreceived 26 402 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. by the general, was made in an attempt therefore to be adapted to his weakness; to assassinate him, which fortunately and, instead of offering such resistance failed, and the conspirators were execu- as he would have wished on the frontted. iers, he retreated as far as Frederica, By a report made to the trustees of having only about seven hundred Eurothe colony in 1740, it appears that at pearls under his command, with a body that time twenty-five hundred persons of Indians. After this sllow of timidihad been sent out as settlers, and that ty, or of prudence, however, he boldly, the amount of money expended was but secretly, moved on toward the enehalf a million of dollars; but it was my, intending to take them by surprise, so far from yielding any returns to the and had already marched within two proprietors, and even from supporting miles of their camp, with every prospect itself, that it still required annual aid. of success, when a French deserter The character of the colonists was far among his ranks, fired his musket and different from that of many of the earlier fled back to the enemy. Although thus settlements; though when we consider disappointed, Oglethorpe's ingenuity the natural advantages of the country, still found a resource, and sitting down, we may well be surprised at the discour- he wrote a letter to the deserter, in agingresult. Amixed population, how- terms calculated to lead the Spaniards ever, especially with a large proportion to suspect the runaway as faithless to of the dregs of European cities, and them, in the style of instructions to him, even of the prisons of England, could for his guidance in the enemy's camp. not rationally be expected to bring a In this he requested him to represent colony to such a condition as was early that Frederica was defenceless, and attained by the Pilgrims in the north, ought to be immediately taken. If the the Friends in Pennsylvania, the patient, Spanish commander should appear uneconomical Hollanders at New York, willing to take that step, the Frenchor the bands of farmers and others, who man was instructed to use his utmost at different periods' occupied different exertions to persuade him to remain points along our extensive seacoast. three days longer in his present posiPerhaps, we might rather be surprised tion, as that would allow time for the that Oglethorpe was able to accomplish removal of six thousand troops, who, he as much as he did for the benefit of the pretended, were on their way to reincolony, amidst the numerous obstacles force the British army, and six ships, which surrounded him. expected on the coast. The letter inWe havebefore mentioned his attempt sisted particularly on the greatest cauto seize St. Augustine, and his want of tion being used, to avoid any allusions success, in consequence of an unexpect- to Admiral Vernon's plan of attack uped reinforcement of the Spanish garri- on St. Augustine, as a secret of the utson at that place. We have also spoken most importance. The letter was then of the invasion made in retaliation; but put into the hands of a Spanish deserta few particulars may here be added, er, who was set at liberty under a promwhich show at once the perilous condi- ise to deliver it to the Frenchman. On tion of affairs at that juncture, and the reaching the Spanish camp, however, military abilities of the general. he took it to the commander, who was The expedition which sailed from completely imposed upon bythe ingeniHavana for the Altamaha river in 1742, ous device, and thinking he had happily consisted of six thousand men; and its obtained important information, seized object was finally to destroy the south- the Frenchman, and put him in irons. tern colonies, and to seize upon the ter- In the midst of doubts and fears, iiiritory for the crown of Spain. An en- to which this letter had thrown the eneergetic demand was immediately made my, a fortunate event occurred, which upon South Carolina for troops; but all turned the scale ill favor of Oglethorpe. assistance was refused, and he was left South Carolina had slowly yielded to to his own resources. His policy was the request he had made for assistance, DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 403 so far as to send three vessels with has since experienced, and is likely long troops; and these arrived off the mouth to enjoy. of the Altamaha just in season to be Among the numerous striking chanmistaken by the invading general, for a ges which have been produced in our part of the naval reinforcement alluded country by the lapse of a short period to in the intercepted letter. Such appa- of time, that effected on the ancient seat rent confirmation of the document con- of Yamacraw may be appropriately vinced him of its truth; and he imme- mentioned. One hundred and eighteen diately destroyed his fortifications, and years ago, a small band of settlers lateembarked for Florida in consternation, ly firom England, driving a few "hogs leaving, in his haste, a number of his and cows," which had been given by cannon, &c., and some military stores. people at Charleston, "to begin their The success of this stratagem, the in- stock," arrived near the spot, escorted genuity of which is certainly very re- by "the rangers," and aided by "the markable, secured the deliverance of scout-boats," sent by the governor of the colony, when it was in its most crit- South Carolina. ical condition, and threatened with final "Oglethorpe and Bull explored the destruction. Without the loss of life, country; and, having found a high and and at a small expense of money, the pleasant spot of ground, situated on a sagacious Oglethorpe was thus able to navigable river, they fixed on this place deliver the colony of an enemy far too as the most convenient and healthy sitnumerous to be resisted, and from the uation for settlers. On this hill they threatening prospect of falling irretriev- marked out a town; and firom the Indiably into the hands of a foreign power, an name of the river which ran past it, opposed to that of Great Britain in pol- called it Savannah. A small fort was icy, laws, and religion. erected on the ban'ks of it as a place for Having accomplished so important a the defence of the colony. The people service, and finding nothing important were set to work in felling trees and to demand his future presence, he em- building huts for themselves; and Oglebarked for England for the last time, thorpe animated and encouraged them, and spent the remainder of his life in by exposing himself to all the hardships tranquillity. On the commencement of which the poor objects of his compashostilities in America in 1775, he receiv- sion endured. He formed them into a ed the offer of the command of the Brit- company of militia, appointed officers ish forces, prepared to suppress the spir- firom among themselves, and furnished it of opposition, but accepted only on them with arms and ammunition. To condition of being authorized to assure show the Indians how expert they were the colonies that they should have justice in the use of arms, he frequently pracdone them. This reply appears to have tised them. been unsatisfactory to the ministry, for "Having thus put his colony in a Sir William Howe was appointed com- good state of defence, the next object mander in his stead. Oglethorpe re- of his attention was, to treat with the mained in retirement until the close of Indians for a share of their possessions. his life. He attained an extraordinary The principal tribes that at this time ocage, surviving the unhappy contest be- cupied the territory were the upper and twseen his native country and the colo- lower Creeks: the former were numernies which he had so faithfully served. ous and strong; the latter, by diseases He witnessed the first nine years of and war, had been reduced to a smaller peace which succeeded the revolution, number; both tribes together were comduring which. tlie colony that he had puted to amount to about twenty-five planted, nursed, and defended, became thousand, men, women, and children. an independent state, connected with a "At a little distance from Savannah, young republic which already showed is a high mound of earth, under which signs of that rapid increase, in popula- the Indian king lies interred who held a tion, wealLh, and improvement, which it conference with Sir Walter Raleigh." 404 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF FLORIDA. X ~_ EVERgLADES FLORIDA. TIIE history of Florida, from the ear-.i.'i liest expedition of discovery almost to the present hour, has been but a record of disappointments and disasters. Hav-' ing neither mines of gold, nor any peculiar advantages for agriculture or commerce, the Spanish character of the people, while occupying it for three hundred years, had a full opportunity to display its imbecility; while our own government, since entering upon the possession a few years ago, have exhibited, in a manner no less lamentable, a disregard to humanity in their treatment.. -55t of the poor remains of the original red,,~,~_ ~. _*E*'g race. Florida is one of the few great peninsulas of America, and presents several peculiar features, one of which is its very important position. As has been remarked, in speaking of Georgia, this long point is only the continuation of the southern slope of that state. It nowhere presents any considerable elevation; and the greatest part of the surface is a level, raised but little above the ocean, with vast tracts too wet for use, and even wholly or chiefly impassable, or submerged in water. The western coast of Florida extends six hundred miles, from the Perdido river to Cape Sable; while the eastern, from St. Mary's river, including the southern, to Cape Sable, is four hundred and fifty. The Atlantic ocean bounds the eastern coast, and the southern extremity is washed by the Bahama and Cuba channels. The northern boundary runs from the mouth of St. Mary's river to the mouth of Flint river, up the Chatahoochee, to latitude 31 deg. 40 min., separating it from Georgia. Thence the line proceeds along the limits of DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF FLORIDA. 4[c Alabama, two hundred and forty miles, St. John's river is very crooked, and in to Perdido river, and down that stream some parts, four or five miles wide. forty miles, to its mouth. The whole PENSACOLA, in north latitude 30 deg. outline of Florida is about fifteen miles, 23 min., and longitude 10 deo-. 19 min. and it extends through six degrees of west from Washington, stands on the latitude. northwestern shore of the bay of the The climate is more uniform than in same name, and enjoys the advantages any other tract of equal extent, north of a fine and safe harbor, with a bar and south, in the United States. This passable by vessels drawing twenty-one is owing to the little variation of surface, feet of water. The anchorage is good, and the proximity of the sea. Pine pre- but the water is shallow near the land. vails among the forests, as the soil is The city was founded in the year generally poor; but the variety of other 1699, by a Spanish officer named Don trees is very great. Rice and Indian Andre de Riola. The entrance to the corn, sweet potatoes, cotton, indigo, and bay of Pensacola is narrow, between sugarcane, are the chief productions of St. Rose's island and Barrancas point, agriculture, while oranges, limes, pome- eight miles from the city. granates, and figs, grow in abundance. ST. AUGUSTINE is the principal town The surface of Florida presents a and seaport on the Atlantic coast of great proportion of waste land and wa- Florida, in north latitude 29 deg. 48 ter, with all the varieties of bays, creeks, min., and longitude west firom Washingand lagoons, along the coast; and in- ton, 40 deg. 21 min. It is the oldest land, of hammocks, savannahs, and ever- settlement in the limits of the Amerglades. The hammocks vary in their ican Union, and even older than the first nature from dry to wet, and many of Canadian colony, having been founded them are impassable, or with a few in- in 1565, by the Spaniards. The harbor tricate intervals of hard and shallow has twenty-eight or thirty feet of water, grounds, wholly under water; never and is safe and commodious, being proknown to any except the Indians, whose tected from the sea by Anastatia island. superior acquaintance with the country, The town extends along its side, on a during the late lamentable Florida war, peninsula, elevated only twelve feet often gave them advantage over our above the level of the sea, and is of an troops, in the hammocks and everglades. oblong form, about a mile in length, but The various plants which grow abund- not very compactly built. The shellantly in some parts of those swamps limestone which forms the coast is the and lakes, often add their obstacles to building material. It presents a very the traveller; especially saw-grass, which attractive appearance firom without, as soon cuts in pieces the clothes of men, orange-trees in abundance grow in the and even their flesh. It would be diffi- vards and gardens; but many of the cult to give an adequate idea of the for- streets are crooked and narrow. The bidding aspect of those extensive and climate is as mild as that of southern desolate regions. Yet, in some places, Europe, and this city is therefore a reverdant tracts occur even among those sort of many invalids from the north. low and swampy districts, where flow- The sea-breezes by day, and the landers in profusion display their beauties breezes by night, co-operate to keep throughout the year. the temperature mild and uniform. The eastern coast is dangerous for Steamboats go to Savannah and Charleslarge vessels, in easterly gales, as the ton. Population about 3,000. numerous inlets are generally too shal- The square near the water is ornalow for ships, having water only for mented with an obelisk of stone, erected vessels of a light draught. On the west, in the centre by the Spaniards, in the however, are the harbors of Perdido, days of the constitution. It is surroundPensacola, Choctawhatchee, St. An- ed by two churches, the courthouse, drew's, St. Joseph's, Appalachicola, Ap- and a number of handsome private pelachee, Tampa, Carlos, and Gullivain. buildings. 'I ft~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~" View of the Public Sqnare and Obelisk, St. Augustine. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF FLORIDA. 407 Fort Marion, at the mouth of the JACKSONVILLE, thirty-eight miles from harbor, is intended for seventy guns and St. Augustine, and thirty from the sea, one thousand soldiers. is a pleasant town, on the bank of St. The harbor of Pensacola receives the John's river, with less than one thoutwo rivers, Yellow Water and Escam- sand inhabitants. bia; Choctaw river falls into the bay of APPALACHICOLA stands at the mouth the same name; while the Appalachi- of the river of the same name, on the cola forms a delta, and the Suwanee gulf of Mexico. It contains about fifempties into Vacasausa bay, in latitude teen hundred inhabitants, and has con29 deg. 25 min. The St. John's differs siderable trade in cotton. Steamboats frorm all the other rivers in the Union, go to New Orleans, and Columbus, Geo. in taking its rise from low, flat grassy CURIOSITIES.-Among the natural cuplains, which extend to about latitude 28 riosities of Florida are:deg. It then flows a little westward of Tie WVhite Sulphur Spring, on the north, for a considerable distance paral- bank of the Suwanee river. The water lel to the coast, and has the appearance makes its appearance in a large basin, of a sound. thirty feet in diameter, and ten feet deep, The low and uniform character of the from which it flows in a strong current. coast of Florida renders it very danger- It is so highly impregnated with sulous to navigation, especially on the east- phur, that the taste and smell are very ern side; and the perils of the seaman disagreeable; and it is celebrated for its are greatly increased by the numerous efficacy in various cutaneous and other shoals and banks which line the south- diseases. ern coast. Subterranean Streams.-Williams, in THE FLORIDA KEYS are celehlrated speaking of this state, says, Florida is, for the numerous shipwrecks which have in itself, a natural curiosity. It is (as occurred upon them. They are now the all who are acquainted with the outline resort of wreckers, who often afford im- of the United States will allow), a sinportant assistance to vessels in distress, gularly-formned peninsula. Mr. Seafor rewards proportioned to the value grove alleges that it is a sand-bank; but of their services. They have' hereto- Mr. Williams supposes it to be a calcafore been infested by pirates, at differ- reous fragment of the Appalachian ent periods, and stained with the blood mountain, clothed with some sterile of many of their unfortunate prisoners. sand-banks, some rich, variegated clayThe Keys consist of a long line of sar,d- banks, and some beautiful coralines. banks, reefs, rocks, and small islands, It is remarkable that, although Florida some bare, and others.thickly overgrown has many beautiful streams, some of with grass, reeds, or bushes, which for- them are found pursuing a considerable merly gave complete shelter and con- part of their course under ground. cealment to the outlaws who lay in wait Pretty streams of sweet and pure water for prizes, and the last of whom were often rush headlong into some wild destroyed and ca.ptured by some of our opening in the rocks, and entirely disarmed ships, a few years ago. appear; and it is quite common to see TAL.LAIIASSEE.-This town, the capi- streams jet forth from the earth. Mr. tal of Florida, 210 miles fiom St. Au- Williams gives the followingdescription g'ustine, stands on a considerable emi- in his work on Florida, published in nence, and contains above two thousand 1837:inhabitants, with several public squares, " The Wakully River rises about ten a courthouse, statehouse, masonic hall, miles northwest of St. Mark's, fiom one land-office, market, and three churches. of the finest springs in Florida, or, perThere is a valuable mill-stream which haps, in the world. It is of an oval passes along the e.astern side of the form, the largest diameter of which is town, and has a fall of sixteen feet, about six rods. It is of an unknown a short distance from the place where it depth, and perfectly transparent. In sinks into the earth, and disappears. looking into it, the color resembles a 408 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF FLORIDA. i clear blue sky, except near the border, Chipola river, in Jackson county. At where it has a slight tinge of green, the foot of an immense limestone bluff from the reflection of the surrounding is an opening, only five feet in height, verdure, which hangs over it in droop- and thirty feet wide. Having entered, ing branches and waving festoons. The the visiter finds a. descending passage of eastern side presents a rugged, rocky fifty feet, when he perceives that he has precipice; all else is an abyss of bound- reached a spacious apartment, a bunless depth. Squadrons of fishes are seen dred feet across and fifty in height, along careering round their own world, in per- the southern side of which flows a stream fect security. The water is moderately of pure, cold water, which soon disapcold, and highly impregnated with lime. pears. A narrow passage leads onward The beauty of the fountain, the luxu- to the northwest, with a pointed arch riance of the foliage around it, and the overhead, like a Gothic aisle. After calm retirement of the whole scene, proceeding sixty yards, a stream, twenty render this one of the most charming feet wide and five feet deep, crosses the spots that West Florida affords." path, which abounds in white cray-fish. Lime-SinkXs.-All over the territory The passage next turns northeastwardly, are scattered lime-sinks, or sink-holes, to a chamber one hundred feet long, which mark the course of the subterra- with a floor of re(d clay, scattered with nean rivers. Holes in the ground, fragments of fallen rock, and blocks of where the earth caves in, and where the stalagmite, formed by the water driphollow is filled with water, form these ping fiom the numerous stalactites lime-sinks. Williams says: "Theyare above. These, of different forms and often very deep, and from them I have sizes, almost conceal from view the lofty often taken fine strings of trout. Two roof; while a collection of the longest, instances have occurred, within our united in one undivided mass, extends knowledge, where persons have camped from the ceiling to the floor, forming an under the pines for one night, and the immense, but well-proportioned column, next, earth, trees, and all, have disap- which seems erected to support the r,_eek peare(l, and an unfathomable sink has above. The entrance of visiters into supplied the place." this hall with torches, disturbs a large Caves.-A large part of Florida (that flock of bats, which have their residence is, the limestone region) abounds in far above; and on their rapid wings, caves. The rock is porous and soft, and after fluttering about awhile, they disslowlydissolves in water. Swift-running appear among the inner recesses of the streams rapidly wear and tear away mass extensive cavern, making a sound like after mass, and from time to time new that of a rushing wind. channels are formed, by which means A narrow and winding passage n:xt the old are left dry. In many places, opens, to conduct the stranger to a new channels are worn under ground, and hall, from which several paths branch there considerable rivers pursue their off in different directions, where several way, for greater ot less distances, be- streams are observed rushing through neath the surface, some of which reap- crevices of different sizes, and annually pear, and others fall into the sea by un- producing changes in their subterranean known passages. Such is the nature of courses. The stalactite formations, at a number of streams in Europe, some the same time, gradually fill up some of of which have been connected with my- the chambers in which they are found; thological traditions and poetical asso- and the beauty of these it is difficult to ciations. Wherever an' old subterra- describe, and even to imagine. They nean channel is deserted, a cavern is are masses of small crystals, more or left; and among those which have been less regular, though endlessly varying in discovered in Florida, the most curious, form. The sides of the cavern are covperhaps, is ered with them in many parts, while the The Arch Cave.-This remarkable pendants above, like icicles, usually excavation is about three miles from have a corresponding mass of the same DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF FLORIDA. 409 material forming on the floor below; and it is never so deep as to cover it. For thus the light of the torches is reflected ten miles from the timbered land, in a thousand spangles, from every the earth is generally hard and dry in qutrter. summer. This tract of country would This cavern has been explored about afford a fine place for cattle to range, six tundred yards, and many more hol- and is always well stocked with wild lows are known to exist in its vicinity. game. La Vega tells us, that pearls Severtl wells, sunk by Colonel Stone, were known to abound in this region, opened into dark caves, by which the at the time of the invasion by De Soto. workmen became too much alarmed to Mr. Williams says: "An old manuscript continue their labors. in my possession asserts, that a governor The Ladies' C'ave is another remark- of Florida appointed a commission, for able opeiing in the earth, about a mile the purpose of seeking pearls in these distant, in a southeast direction. The lakes, which was successful." Mr. Wilentrance i3 large, and the interior more liams seems to infer from this and other spacious. The passage at first divides facts, that it would be of much advaninto two, of which that on the left soon tage to drain this portion of the country. leads the visiter to a deep stream, which He asserts, that if the waters could be disappears under an arched rock, cov- lowered ten feet, it would probably ered with c ystals. The other, after a drain six hundred thousand acres; and longer course, and leading through sev- if this should prove to be a rich soil, as eral halls, is interrupted by water, be- it appears to be, what a field would it yond which is seen a large room. open for tropical productions! The Everaides.-This peculiar fea- HISTORY.-WTe have only room for a ture may be ranked among the natural few leading events in the history of curiosities of Florida. South of the Florida: twenty-eighth degree of north latitude, 1497.-Discoveryby Sebastian Cabot, Florida has very much the shape of a under the English flag, who merely dish, the borderof which is raised toward saw the coast, without landing. the coast. Near to the cape this border 1512. — Visited by Ponce de Leon, in lies at the distance of from twelve to search of "the fountain of health," retwenty miles from the shore. It is com- ported to him by an Indian girl. He posed of the same calcareous rock landed from Hispaniola at Cape Sable, which forms this peninsula. This ex- on Easter day, and gave it the name of tensive basin is intersected by numer- Florida, which the Spaniards afterward ous lakes and lagoons, and is filled by used to embrace all the country to Canmarshes and wet savannahs, which form ada. After a long search for the founa labyrinth, and are called the ever- tain (which may have been the Sulphur glades. It is drained on the north ly Spring), he returned, with the loss of the St. John's, on the east by the St. many men. Lucia, Greenville, Jupiter, New river, 1516.-He made a second search for Rattones, and Miamli, and by the Snake, gold, and was driven away by the Swallow, Delaware, Caloosahatche, and Indians. Macaco, on the west. As one approaches 1524.-The king of Spain having the level of the glades, he is surprised granted Florida to Guerray, his succesby the appearance of a field of grass sor, Allyon, attempted to seize the before him, which seems like the ocean, country, but was repulsed by the na- I without bounds. He may then pass on tives. westward, from six to twelve miles, till, 1528.-Pamfilo de Narvaez, with four by degrees, the grass disappears, and hundred foot and forty horse, after many he is left in an unexplored, grassy lake, sufferings, and much perfidious conduct the limits of which his eye can not dis- toward the Indians, lost almost all his cover. The grass is so tall and thick, men; eighty only reached Mexico in that, although the borders of the lake boats. are usually covered in winter with water, 1539.-Fernando de Soto next at 410 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF FLORIDA. tempted to occupy the country, having all Florida, the head of which was at sold his claims on the Peruvian con- the Franciscan convent in the capital. quest, to which he had contributed, for The convents, whose ruins are now seen one and a half millions. Landing at in different parts, were built about this Tampa bay with one thousand men, and time. assisted by Ortez, a survivor of the last 1702.-Governor Moore's unsuccessexpedition, who was a favorite with a ful siege of St. Augustine, with thetroops chief in the interior, he proceeded far of the southern English colonies. Two without interruption, treating the na- years afterward, by a land-expedition, tives with kindness, until he had won he seized the north of Florida, and extheir confidence, and had an opportunity cited the Indians to revolt and masto seize one of their large towns. A sacres. After various Indian wars, in numerous body of Indians ambushed 1718S-M. Chateauque, fi-on Louisihim some time after, but were repulsed ana, captured the fort at Pensacola with in an obstinate battle. He pursued his eight hundred Indians, twenti-two years way through Florida, though bravely after its erection. It was soon retaken and powerfully resisted; and, led on by by a Spanish fleet, but feli again into the hope of finding gold, two years the hands of the French, who demolafterward died on the Red river, having ished it. crossed the Cumberland mountains and 1725.-Governor Palme:, to retaliate the Mississippi. for a Spanish and Indiar invasion of 1562.-A Huguenot colony, sent out Georgia, laid the country waste to St. from France by Admiral Coligny, ar- Augustine. rived on the coast, but proceeding north, 1740.-Governor Oglethorpe's expelanded at Beaufort. After extreme suf- dition, mentioned in our description of ferings, however, they abandoned their South Carolina and Geo.gia. After an undertaking. invasion of Georgia by the Spaniards, in 1564.-A second and larger colony 1763-Florida was ceded to Great was established at May river, supposed Britain, when only six hundred poor to be the St. John's, where they built Spaniards were found inhabiting the Fort Caroline, six leagues from the sea. country, and these soonremoved to Cuba. General Menendez sailed from Spain to The land was therefore parcelled out destroy them, as heretics, as his catholic among half-pay officers and disbanded majesty had received from the pope a soldiers, who had served in the Amerigrant of the new world, on condition can war; while colonists of different that he should convert the Indians to the classes arrived from Great Britain. Romish faith. He succeeded, partly by 1767.-New Smyrna, seventy miles perfidy, in butchering the colonists; and south of St. Augustine, was settled by in revenge, the Chevalier Dominique de 1,500 Greeks, Corsicans, and others, Gourges, though born a Romanist, led under Dr. Turnbull, who for several an expedJ.ion to Florida, and, with the years treated them with great injustice assistance of a body of Indians, cut off and barbarity. In 1776, they were the Spaniards at Caroline. Finding the placed in an independent situation by remains of his countrymen hanging on the government, and took up their resitrees, with the inscription: "Not as dence in St. Augustine, where many of Frenchmen, but as heretics," he hung their descendants now reside. the Spaniards in their places, and put 1781. —Pensacola was besieged and up signs bearing these words: " Not as taken by the French fiom Louisiana. Spaniards, but as devils." 1783.-Florida was ceded back to 1574. —Menendez, governor of Saint Spain, and the manufacture of sugar, Augustine, sent out many friars among and other enterprises introduced by the the Indians. English, were abandoned, the British 1583. —The last of the Indian nations subjects leaving the country. The Greek formed treaties with the Spaniards, and colony alone preserved signs of prosa missionary system was established for perity. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF FLORIDA. 411 1811. — Seven commissioners were that it is much less expensive to manure sent to Pensacola by the president of old land than to clear the timber from the United States, to obtain, if possible, new. a cession of Florida, but were unsuc- Sea-island cotton on the sea-border, cessful. The next year, Fernandina and green-seed cotton inland, havehereand Amelia island were captured by tofore been the principal crops; butthe Corn. Campbell and an American force; cultivation of sugar is now fast gaining and the place was a great resort of the ascendency in the middle and eastsmugglers and slave-traders, during the ern parts of the country; and experiAmerican embargo. ments have proved that the cane will 1813.-The place was restored to the flourish anywhere, while it is more cerSpaniards. tain and valuable in most places, and 1814.-Colonel Nichols, with an Eng- there can be no danger of glutting the lish fleet, took Pensacola, and armed market with this article. the Indians against the Americans. On There are three kinds of sugar-cane the 6th of November, in that year, Gen. cultivated in Florida: the Creole, the Jackson appeared before Pensacola with Otaheite, and the Ribbon; the first of a strong force, and soon took the place, which is thought to yield more sugar, but the British escaped in their ships. though slower in ripening. The RibGen. Jackson destroyed the fortifica- bon is better adapted to i more northern tions and evacuated the place, leaving climate, as it ripens in a short time; but private property wholly uninjured. the grinding is more laborious, on ac1819.-A treaty of amity, settlement, count of the superior hardness of the and limits, was concluded between Spain stalk. It has another advantage, in not and the United States, bywhich Florida fermenting as speedily as the Creole. was ceded to this country. Gen. Jack- The yellow varieties are preferred south son was appointed governor. of thirty degrees latitude. Transplant1822.-Florida was made a territory; ing is best performed at the season of and the following year Tallahassee was ripeness. Excellent stalks have been made the seat of government. raised six successive years from the The improvements made in popula- same roots; and we are yet unable to tion, agriculture, arts, and commerce, say how much longer it might be done have been rapid since that epoch, though with depreciation. much retarded for several years by the In the spring it is usefill to cut off the war with the Indians, who, in spite of tops several times, to make the plant their claim to their own country, and the spread and destroy the weeds; and the bravery and skill with which they de- heads cut off are excellent food for catfended it, have been removed beyond tie and horses. Williams assures us the Mississippi. that the culture and manufacture are A careless and wasteful plan of agri- carried on with full success on small culture, too common in some of the farms, as well as on the largest estates: southern parts of the Union, has ex- for a press may be made by the farmer, hausted great tracts of land in Florida. at little cost,. which will perform the Williams says it " has destroyed the na- work as well or even better, than a.mill tive fertility of the soil, from the Ches- costing ten thousand dollars. This apeake bay to the St. Mary's river, with branch of business has some peculiar few exceptions. The object has been advantages, particularly in the small to cultivate as much land and with as amount of labor required in the cultivafew hands as possible; to exhaust the tion of a sugar plantation. No work soil and turn it common, and then to re- upon it is necessary firom midsummer move and pursue the salne course again, until harvest, though at that time many upon new land." He remarks that hands must be employed. abundance of seaweed and marsh mud Indigo was the principal product un-, are to be found all along the coast of der the British, and silk might be well Florida, and that all experience proves made in the nortlhern districts. 412 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. THIS state lies between thirty degrees ten minutes, and thirty-five degrees, 1,_ Inorth latitude, and between eight and | /i i eleven degrees, west longitude from ~ _11- Washington. From north to south it iy k ~ r\,-1: occupies a tract of land three hundred and seventeen miles longo and one hundred and seventy-four miles broad, containing forty-six thousand square miles.'~- ~lIn 1850, the poptulation was numbered ~*te c,. 4,.~i~.~*' Alabama is situated in the valley of Tennessee, and the basin of TMobile, except its southeast and southwest angles. The southern part borders on the gulf of Mexico for the space of fifty or sixty miles, and is nearly covered with pines, and low and level. In the central part it is hilly and varied by prairies, and broken and somewhat mountainous in the north. The soil, itn the northern portion of the state, is excellent; but in the southern, it is sandy and barren. The native trees in the northern and middle sections are black and white oak, hickory, poplar, cedar, chestnut, pine, mulberry, &c. The arable land of southern Alabama, may be found mostly on or near to the water-courses, and is called by two different names, alluvion and intermediate. The intermediate has a kind of soil betweenil the open pine woods and the alluvial river-bottoms. Although it comprises the much greater part of the state, it is sterile. It abounds more in the southern than in the northern sections. Alabama has a number of fine rivers, of which the Mobile is the principal. The Alabama is a very fine river, and is navigable to Claiborne, sixty miles above its junction, for vessels drawing six feet of water. At the mouth of the Cahawba, one hundred and fifty miles further, it has four or five feet of water, and in the shallowest places, to the junction of the Coosa and Talapoosa, the rivers by which it is formed, it is never less than three feet. The Tombigbee is four hundred and fifty miles long, and is navigable for schooners to St. Stephen's, one hundred and twenty miles, and for steamboats to Columbus, Mississippi. Indeed, it is boatable for the greater part of its course. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 413 It has a large branch which is called the The Alabama now flows westwardly Black Warrior. This river is naviga- until it receives the Cahawba, and then ble to Tuscaloosa. turns south-southwest, until it is joined Another river, the Chatahochee, by the Tombigbee, and changes its i forms a boundary of Alabama; and the name to the Mobile. The lower part northern part is watered by the Tennes- of the channel is no less crooked than see. the upper; for while the distance in a Mobile river, properly the lower part direct line from the Talapoosa is but of the principal stream in the state, is one hundred and twenty miles, the navformed by the confluence of two others, igation is not less than two hundred and the principal of which is the Alabama, fifty. and the second the Tombigbee. And Mobile bay is of a triangular shape, the Alabama, in its turn, is formed by about thirty-two miles across, and into the Coosa and the Talapoosa. It is to it empties the Mobile river, by several be regretted that this incorrect plan in mouths. The outer bar has sixteen feet naming streams has been adopted here, water; but Dog river bar, which is as in some other places, as it leads to seven miles below the harbor, has only confusion and often to false impressions. eleven. The principal entrance is beA stream should bear one name from tween Dauphin island and Mobile point. its source to its mouth, and each branch There is another: the pass of Heron, should be named in the same manner. which affords a communication between The Coosa, which is regarded as the Pascagouia sound and the harb)or, bemain branch of the Alabama, ought to tween Dauphin island and the continent. have been named as the main stream; This has six feet of water at middle anld we shall so consider it, and follow tide, and is taken by steamboats and the order of nature, and the proper coasting vessels on the way to New Orpractice of geographers, in our brief leans, by the Rigolets, Lake Pontchardescription. It rises in Tennessee, be- train, and Bayou St. John. Anchorage tween the sources of the Hiwassee and can be found in any part of that route, Chataboochee, in latitude thirty-five de- in mud, shells, and sand. grees five minutes south, the highest The basin of Mobile river contains point of all the waters flowing directly an area of 37,120 square miles, in the into the gulf of Mexico, east of the draining of which that stream and its Mississippi. The head stream bears branches perform their parts. It exthe name of the Conessauga, and flows tends north to the borders of the basin first in a westwardly direction, and then of the Tennessee, and east to that of the southwestwardly and south. At the lis- Chatahoochee. tance of seventy miles in Georgia, it re- When we consider the variety of surceives the Etowah, and there assumes face, soil, and productions, in Alabama the name of Coosa. About ten miles the extent of its navigable routes, and beyond it crosses the line of Alabama, the facilities for commerce, together and turns southwest, south, and south- with the mildness of its climate, it might east, till it receives the Talapoosa and seem strange that it should so long changes its name again, as beforemen- have remained almost uncultivated and tioned, to Alabama river, at Coosanda, uninhabited, if we were not aware of in latitude thirty-two degrees twenty- the various unfavorable circumstances eight minutes, longitude nine degrees connected with its situation. It has twenty-two minutes west from Wash- been shown, in our notices of the Carington. In this part of its course, the olinas, that the colonists near the coast Alabama (or Coosa) flows about four remained for a generation ignorant of hundred miles, including its windings, the advantages of the upper country in while it gains only two hundred and the interior: those elevated regions, forty, measuring in a stlraight line, drain- which enjoy a climate more favorable to ing an area of about nine thousand square health and bodily exertion, and aboundmiles. | ing in productions unknown among the 414 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. low, hot, and often sandy and barren rangement of difficulties arising out of plains on which they had pitched. conflicting claims to territory in AmerThe feebleness of the young colo- ica. nies, the distractions caused among them It was then, however, happily agreed, by ignorant and evil counsellors and ru- in due form, between those two powers, lers, the danger of fbreign invasion by in a treaty framed by Sir William Gosea, and still more the fear of the pow- dolphin, that, "th5 king of Great Briterful Indian tribes on their western ain should always possess, in full right frontiers, afforded sufficient explanation of sovereignty and property, all the for this delay in extending their borders countries, islands, and culonies, lying in that direction. These reasons apply and being situated il, the West Indies, with double force to Alabama, for it lay or any part of America, which he and still further beyond; and, in addition to his subjects then held and possessed, this, the territory was in the vicinity of inasmuch that they neither can nor ought another enemy or rival of the English: to be thereafter contested on any account the French on the Mississippi. A por- whatsoever." The buccaniers were tion of it, indeed, and that the most im- suppressed, and the navigation of the portant part, in fact, the key of the American seas was freely opened to whole, was early occupied by them: we both nations. It was also agreed, that mean Mobile; which, being placed at all ships in distress entering any of the the mouth of the chief river, and on a ports, should be admitted and treated good harbor, commanded the whole ac- with humanity, and freely permitted to cessible portion of the country. depart. The Spaniards then gave up, Since Alabama has come into the by this treaty, all claim to the Carolipossession of the United States, and has nas; and the prosperity of the British risen to the dignity of a state, it has had colonies would have been increased by to struggle with obstacles arising from it, had that power observed it in good its backwardness; and by the superiority faith. of New Orleans as a great mart of com-e Soon after this event, a treaty of neumerce, long established, the difficulty of trality was concluded between Great concentrating business at a small place Britain and France, by which limits in its neighborhood is much increased. were fixed, with greater precision than The natural obstacles of the interior are before, to the various possessions of in many parts great, as may be perceiv- these three powers in America, and the ed from some of the particulars we have freedom of commerce and navigation given; and thus several circumstances was better secured. combine, which are likely to retard the But the happy results which might rapid increase of settlements for some naturally have been expected fiomthese time to come. measures, were greatly diminished by The prolonged disputes and contests the arrogant pretensions advanced by for territory between England, Spain, one of the religious orders in Spain. and France, brought an innumerable The Franciscan monks, claiming the host of evils upon the early colonies, and authority of the pope as paramount to especially upon those most accessible international agreements, found means to invasion. Alabama lay so far from to gain a footing in Florida,,where, unthe Atlantic coast, so near to the French der the protection and favor of Spanish settlements on the Mississippi, and so fortresses and troops, they soon gained totally within the Indian territory, that over to their direction the Indians, and an occupation of any part as a British established amissionarysystem throughcolony, or even a visit to it, was not to out that country, by which they raised be regarded as a possible thing, for a up a power hostile to Great Britain, as long fime. Until the year 1667, there a protestant nation, from which a long had never been any treaty or under- series of evils resulted, that continustanding entered into between England ed through several generations. Hence and Spain, for the prevention or ar- arose the hostility of the Florida Indi- 1 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 415 ans and some of the more northern more bold, formidable, and destructive tribes, with many of the disasters which enemies than they would else have been. they produced; and hence, and from a In 1730, after the colony of Carolina, similar cause, viz., the long and contin- with the extensive territory which it ued intrigues and open military expedi- then included, had been purchased by tions of the French Jesuits in Canada, the crown, Sir Alexander Cumming the sad scenes'of fire, murder, and cap- came from England.to America, to setivity, which spread a gloom over the cure the friendship of the Cherokees history of the colonies of New England by a formal treaty; and met the chiefs and New York. of the nation at Nequassee, a place The planting of the colonies along about three hundred miles in the interithe Mississippi, in the year 1709, is wor- or, where he was received on the most thy of notice as one of the great causes friendly terms. Five of them accompaof the delay in the occupation of the nied him to England, where they made territory of this state by the English. a treaty of peace and amity, agreeing Louis XIV. of France having granted never to trade with any other people but a large tract of land about the mouths the British, to aid and fight for them, of that river to Secretary Crozat, the &c.; "not to permit the white men settlement was soon commenced; and, of any other nation, to build any forts although the place was considered by or cabins, or plant any corn among them, the southern British colonists as lying upon lands which belong to the great within their patent, no attempt was king, to restore runaway negroes, to made to interrupt the intruders, and the submit to English laws in case of mursteps they were taking were not evener on either side," &c. The Indians protested against. The French gradu- returned the following year, highly satally won to their interest some of the isfied with their success. Governor Indians, and extended plantations in Glen, in 1755, had the treaty confirmed, different directions, while they establish- and obtained a vast cession of land. ed forts and trading stations still further But this -promising aspect of affairs was in advance. In 1725, they built a fort not of long duration; and the scenes of on Alabama river, at a considerable dis- war and distress which followed, as we tance above its mouth. That position, have briefly stated in our accounts, of called Fort Alabama, afforded them fa- the older colonies, condemned the tercilities of intercourse with the Creek ritory of Alabama to the long neglect nation, whose hunting grounds extend- which it suffered, in consequence of the ed to that vicinity; and when a friend- hostile state of its savage inhabitants. ly standing had been established with Thus we have seen that a small porthem, the Cherokees were, ere long, tion of the present state of Alabama brought into correspondence; and thus was occupied by the French, early in the foundations were laid of an exten- the last century, when, soon after the sive rival interest to the British colonies, founding of Louisiana, they built a fort the evil effects oi' which were long felt. at Mobile, and settled at several points To oppose the intrigues of the French, upon the river; while the English left who soon brought the Choctaws, Chick- the territory unoccupied, and made no asaws, and other tribes, under their in- attempt to settle any part of that large fluence, the president of Carolina em- portion of it which was included in the ployed Captain Tobias Fitch, to act as charter of Georgia, so that nearly the his agent among the Creeks, and Colo- whole territory remained in the undisnel George Chicken among the Chero- puted possession of the Indians. In kees; but they were unable to prevent 1802, it was ceded to the United States all connexion between those nations and by Georgia, and annexed to the MIissisthe French, who generally supplied sippi territory. In 1817, it was made a them with tomahawks and firearms, distinct territory; and on the 2d of Auwhich they adopted instead of their gust, 1819, admitted as a free and indebows and arrows, and thus became far pendent state into the American Union. ~416 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. The constitution of Alabama is re- only eighteen by land, is the highest markably liberal it its provisions for the point accessible in light boats. From support of education, as it contains a Monlgomery to Atlanta, a railroad exlong section on the subject, of which the tends 185 miles, whence a stage-road following is the commencement: — of one hundred and thirty miles leads "Schools and the means of education to Notasulga, and there the traveller shall for ever be encouraged in this finds himself on the Augusta railroad, state." It requires the legislature to one hundred and thirty-six miles in take measures to preserve the lands ap- length. The part of this route which propriated for the support of education, lies in this state, and most of that part to apply the funds, &c. The income in Georgia, is wild and almost uninhabfirom the lands is devoted to the support ited. A traveller in 1846 thus describes of a university. The number of cor- some of the features of this unreclaimmon schools is already six hundred and ed wildness and the primitive state of sofifty, and there are one hundred and ciety existing among the few people who twenty academies and grammar-schools. inhabit it:The constitution likewise secures to "The whole country through which slaves, accused of any crime higher than we passed, from Augusta to Montgompetty larceny, a trial by a pettit jury. ery, is as dull and deficient in interest, Printing was commenced in this as the most misanthropic could desire. state sometime between 1810 and 1820; It was sufficiently rolling, sometimes but as early as 1821 there were no less stony, and had numerous clear rivulets than eleven newspapers. meandering on it. But the improveState of the Country, 4c.-In so new ments were mostly a sad blotch on naand extensive a region as Alabama, im- ture. It is bad enough to find log-shanprovements must necessarily be back- ties, slipshod fences, &c., in a decidedly ward, especially where the inhabitants fiesh and untamed country; but to see are few, and the means of communica- these, so old as to be already in their tion difficult, where facilities have hard- dotage, and comparatively little to rely been introduced. Commendable en- deem the general forbiddingness of the terprise has already been displayed, by scene, is, to say the best, the reverse of both the legislature and the people, in gratification to a traveller. introducing important improvements, "The log-houses on their best estates and in devising more. That the rF og- consist of a room at either end, with a ress of the state, in many important re- passage between (but seldom enclosed spects, will hereafter be great, we have with doors), through which a loaded flattering reason to expect, when we rec- team could be driven, and the enclosed ollect the provision made for the gener- rooms would generally afford a tolerably al and lasting support of education in distinct view of the opposite sceneryi the constitution. Intelligence, litera- through the unchuncked double walls. ture, and science, united with religion, The chimneys in most of the country, must necesstrily render a people great and some of the city houses, from MIaand happy; and it is gratifying to see ryland to the Gulft are placed on the that means are employed in Alabama outside of one or both ends, and are for their diffusion. Steam has already built entirely independent of the houses, begun its career of civilization and im- though connected with the first floor by provement on both land and water. a single fireplace. This may abate a The establishment of steamboats on little the intense heat of summer; but it the Alabama river, affords one of the has a most unsightly and forbidding apprincipal channels of travelling and pearance. The best houses are sometrade in the state of Alabama. A safe times painted, and the chimneys are and rapid passage is afforded by that well laid up in brick and mortar, while route from Mobile to Montgomery, the those attached to the poorest are more head of navigation. Wetumpka, fifty fiequently made of mud and sticks, and miles higher up the river, by water, but the surrounding buildings are limited DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 417 to a rough hovel or two, about as closely "The Alabama is a fine winding housed in, as a field under a well-laid stream, hemmed in by banks from twenworm fence. ty to eighty feet high. These are some"The shuck provided for the winter times worn, and shelve off fiom the acforage of the cattle, is one or more stacks tion of the stream; but are generally of corn-blades or husks, some twelve or fringed with a great variety of forestfifteen feet high, and five or six in diam- trees, shrubs, and frequently the cane, eter. The working mules or horses are which, springing up from the water's fed with corn; but all the remainder of edge, surmounts the banks, and extends the quadrupeds betake themselves to for miles in one impenetrable mass. It the woods for brouse. As the range is grows from fifteen to twenty feet high,; illimitable, and vegetation has a torpid straight as an arrow and almost as thick existence through the winter, they will as standing wheat. It throws out delifrequently do very well on it, though cate branches near the tops, whose they have in many cases to go so far for gracefully tapering foliage, at a distance, it, that they do not think it worth while nearly resembles a field of luxuriant returning to report progress till the feed hemp, and these become so closely inhas again become deserving their atten- terwoven at their tops as to resemble tion at home. Of course, milking the one vast carpet of resplendent green. cows is out of the question, unless half A variety of beautiful branching everof one's time is used in pursuit of them. green, and deciduous oaks, are found on "Where there' are canebrakes, as is the banks and bordering tablelands, and fiequently the case on rich bottom lands, occasionally the pine and other resinous the animals have a good winter subsist- trees. Here and there a magnolia may ence on the young shoots of this gigan- be seen shooting up with perfect symtic grass. Its rich evergreen.leaves ac- metry for fifty to seventy feet, and bearquire a palatable nutritiveness after the ing the dark-hued evergreen leaves, in a frosts, which it does not possess during beautiful cone. In May and June, this the summer and autumn, and when is gemmed over its entire surface with abundant, cattle will fatten on this alone. beautiful snowy flowers, five to seven The swine through this country are the inches in diameter and of great fravilest brutes a farmer's eye ever rested grance. The cypress that everywhere on. They are of all colors, but princi- fills up the low grounds south of Virpally black, gray, red, blue, or striped ginia, is always to be found in its approand dotted like a hyena, which comely priate place here; and from nearly evbeast, and its congener, the wolf, they ery tree, of whatever species, the clingmore nearly resemble than any of their ing moss hangs in graceful festoons. own well-bred family. Even the fatten- This appears to be exclusively an airing porkers are only in a passably-grow- plant. Its slender stem throws out miing condition, while the nomads could nute tendrils or branches, some two inhardly lay claim to hide enough to hold ches long, and about the same distance their bones to ether. As the stages firom each other, and it is suspended rattled along, they rushed out of the from the twigs solely by the mechanical woods in all directions, to follow the attachment of the stem. When this horses. I asked the driver thecause of has become dead for a long distance their leanness when the woods were full from the point of its origin, the fresh of oaks and chestnuts. Ile said the shoots continue to multiply and grow former bore no acorns, and the people on with undiminished vigor. Cattle are gathered the latter. said to be fond of it, and if suited to "We were glad to get on a boat at impart nourishment to them, it seems Montgomery. Had the river been at improvident that such vast quantities of moderate height, we should have passed it are hung so far above their reach. down the four hundred miles to Mobile This moss is exported largely to the in two days instead of five, owing to our northern states, and is used for stuffing frequently grouilding. cushions, beds, &c. 27 418 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. "The soil on both sides of the river is uated on the left bank of the Black almost invariably good, as is much of Warrior river, in latitude thirty-three that in central Alabama." degrees and twelve minutes, and longiMONTGOMERY, the capital of the state, tude ten degrees and forty-three minis built on a high bluff, on the left bank utes, one hundred and fifty-five miles and at the head of steamboat navigation, southwest fiom Huntsville, two hundred on Alabama river, three hundred and and seventeen miles a little north of thirty-eight miles from Mobile by the east from Mobile, and eight hundred course of the river, and two hundred and fifty-eight miles southwest from miles in a direct line; one hundred and Washington, by post-route. Its positwelve miles southeast from Tuscaloosa, tion is at the foot of the lower falls, at and eight hundred and fifty miles from the head of steamboat navigation, on an Washington city. Its contains a court- elevated plain. The ald statehouse, house, seven churches, two academies, courthouse, land-office, masonic hall, laand about seven thousand inhabitants. dies' athmneum, four churches, academy, The cotton shipped from this place and institute, are the public buildings. amounts to forty thousand bales annu- The streets are broad, straight, and ally. Montgomery has recently been regular, and the inhabitants about five made the capital of the state, and prep- thousand. arations are already in progress for The University of Alabama, founded building an elegant statehouse. in 1828, is situated at the distance of MOBILE stands on a low plain, only one mile fiom Tuscaloosa. It has a about fifteen feet above the water at library of six thousand volumes, seven high tides, but commands a view over professors and tutors, and about sixty the spacious harbor, and lies open to students. The commencement is held the sea-breezes. The distance from the on Wednesday after the first Monday in coast of the gulf of Mexico is thirty December. miles, and fiom New Orleans, one hun- DEMOPOLIS, on the Tombigbee, two dred and sixty-four. The population is hundred and twenty miles from Mobile, about twenty thousand, and the princi- situated a little below the mouth of the pal public buildings are the United Black Warrior river, communicates daily States naval hospital, courthouse, city with Columbus, Miss., and Mobile, by hospital, three banks, seven churches, steamboats. Stage-coaches go three theatre, and Burton academy. Provision times a week to Tuscaloosa and Mobile. has been made for a supply of water for The principal public buildings are three the city from Spring Kill, two miles dis- churches, two academies, and the landtant. The cotton trade of this port is office; and the population is about one very great, the amount received and ex- thousand. ported annually being larger than that GAINESVILLE, a small town, about two of any other city in the Union except hundred and eighty-three miles from New Orleans. Mobile, is on the Tombigbee, and a The entrance of the harbor is defend- place of much trade in cotton. It coned by Fort Morgan, on a sandy point tains only about two hundred inhabiopposite Dauphin island; and a light- tants, but is daily visited by the steamhouse is erected for ships entering. boats fiom Columbus and'Mobile, and Mobile has been in possession of the stage-coaches go three times a week, to United States only thirty-four years, the latter place and Jackson in Missishaving been ceded by Spain in 1813. sippi. Spring Hill College, two miles from ST. STEPHEN'S, with a population of Mobile, has about four thousand vol- one thousand, is the second settlement umes in its library, and seventy students. in the state in point of age. It stands Steamboats depart daily for New Or- on the Tombigbee, oIe hundred miles leans, Columbus, Miss., and Montgome- from Mobile, and has tw, churches, a ry. land-office, and an acad mny. TUSCALOOSA, lately the capital, is sit- I CAHAWBA, on the west side of Alaba I — I. l~ ~~~~~~~ ~ i I S=~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=' J -- l ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~View of the City and Harbor of Mobile. 420 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. ma river, two hundred and forty miles connected with this skeleton, were found from Mobile, and once the capital town, in a state of dislocation, particularly contains about one thousand inhabitants. those which he placed as ribs. The It has a courthouse, an academy, and vertebrae are so entirely separate, and two churches, and the river steamboats generally so much worn away, by decay touch there daily, while stage-coaches or attrition, that no evidence of their rego to Mobile, Tuscaloosa, and Hunts- lation to each other, could be obtained ville. from their form or size; and their alleSELMA, sixteen miles above Cahawba, ged proximity when discovered, is not on the right bank of the river, has two of itself sufficient ground on which to academies, three churches, and about proceed in constructing an animal of one thousand inhabitants. such an extraordinary kind. Besides, FOSSIL BONES, &c.-Alabama, more the bones placed as the head, and which than most other parts of our country, are said to have been fonlid lying at abounds in ancient bones, which are that end of the skeleton, but inverted, found in various positions, but most have little or no resemblance to those abundantly in a peculiar stratum, which of a serpent's head. in some places lies many feet beneath The parts of which this collection the natural surface, but in others, is laid consists are unquestionably natural rebare, or cut through by the wearing mains of some gigantic animal or aniaway of streams of water, &c. In cer- mals, and were taken from the earth in tain districts, these remains of ancient Alabama; but to what kind of animal, and often unknown animals, have been or to how many individuals they belong familiar to the present inhabitants, longed, we pretend not to decide. They as well as to their predecessors the In- present a striking specimen of innurnerdians; but their remote situations have able remains of a similar kind existing prevented many of them from being in abundance in some parts of Alabaeither generally seen or accurately de- ma: and future discoveries and researscribed. ches may probably shed important light Dr. Koch of Germany made a tour of upon the' interesting subject. exploration in this and several other The following statements we derive states, three years ago, and discovered from a letter of Professor Silliman:and brought away a collection of bones, "Dr. Koch, the proprietor of the many of which were exhibited by him skeleton now in this city, made a jourin our principal cities. A great num- ney of discovery a year since, into Alaber of them were arranged by him, in bama and other southern regions, with the order in;which he supposed them to particular reference to this animal. He have been naturally placed, judging had the rare good fortune, as the result from their relative positions when dis- of his perseverance, aided by the kind covered in the earth. When thus pla- assistance of the inhabitants, to disinter ced, they seemed to form the skeleton the stupendous skeleton which is now of an immense serpent, which the dis- set up for exhibition here. coverernamedtheHydrargos Sillimanii, "It has evidently been done at great and described, with a sketch of its prob- expense and personal toil; and the pubable habits, food, &c., after the manner lic, while they owe a debt to Dr. Koch, of many of his predecessors, some of will, when paying it, receive a high whom have published pictures of the gratification in contemplating the reanimals of extinct species, as when re- mains of a race of animals whose length stored, by the addition of the decayed exceeded that of all other creatures flesh, &c. hitherto discovered; the spinal column Naturalists, however, did not gener- of this skeleton as now arranged measally adopt the opinions of Dr. Koch; ures one hundred and fourteen feet in and more evidence is thought necessary length. The skeleton having been before the existence of such an animal found entire enclosed in limestone, evican be admitted. The lighter bones dently belonged to one individual, and 1...,.. - DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 421 there is the fullest ground for confidence branches, is sufficient to discover, that in its genuineness. The animal was thousands of miles lie along and near marine and carnivorous, and at his death their borders; and that, even were the was imbedded in the ruins of that an- proportion of land susceptible of culticient sea which once occupied the region vation much less than it is, sufficient where Alabama now is; having myself would still remain to furnish support for recently passed 400 miles down the Al- an immense population, if judiciously abama river, and touched at many pla- managed, and furnished with convenient ces, I have had full opportunity to ob- means of sending the products to marserve, what many geologists have affirm- ket. The steamboats already plying ed, the marine and oceanic character of daily upon the main stream, and the the country. railroads now in use, with the advanta"Judging from the abundance of the ges which they afford, intimate what remains (some of which have been sev- further benefits might be secured by exeral years in my possession), these ani- tending the improvements to every part mals must have been very numerous, of the state which may be accessible to and doubtless fed upon fishes and other them. But something more than this is marine creatures-the inhabitants of a contemplated, by a system of public region, then probably of more than trop- works proposed to the people. ical heat; and it appears probable also, The western parts of Georgia and that this animal frequented bays, estua- South Carolina are still unprovided with ries, and seacoasts, rather than the main adequate channels oftransportation; and ocean. As regards the nature of the the slightest examination of the maps, animal, we shall doubtless be put in pos- will go far to justify the assertion of session of Professor Owen's more ma- those who maintain, that it is easy to ture opinion, after he shall have review- adopt measures now which shall bring ed the entire skeleton. I would only all their trade to Mobile. The extenventure to suggest, that he mnay find lit- sion of steamboat routes as far as possitie analogy with whales, and much more ble upon the streams, then a resort to with lizards, according to Dr. Harlan's railroads, and finally the improvement original opinion. and multiplication of common roads, it " Among the fossil lizards and saurus, is insisted, will accomplish this; while this resembles most the pleisiosaurus, the profits can hardly fail to justify and from which, however, it differs very de- richly to reward the expense, and in a cidedly. moderate period. "Most observers will probably be But this is not all. The valley of the struck with the snake-like appearance Tennessee river is separated from that of the skeleton. It differs, however, of the Alabama by only a narrow ridge; most essentially from any existing or and if that barrier can be surmounted, fossil serpent, although it may counte- another very rich and extensive region nance the popular (and I believe well- will be added to the vast commercial founded) impx ssion of the existence in territory of Mobile. It is proposed to our modern seas, of huge animals to construct a railroad across that tract; which the name of sea-serpent has been and thus to draw off the trade which attached. For a full aid satisfactory seeks a slow and difficult channel down statement of the evidenze on this sub- the Tennessee to the Mississippi. But ject, see a communication by Dr. Bige- the system of improvements projected low of Boston in the second volume of stops not here. The route may be exthe American Journal." tended northward; and it is seriously PROJECTED IMPROVEMENTS.-Among proposed to carry it to the mouth of the the projects for improvements which Ohio.. From Selma to the Tennessee, now attract the attention of the people a railroad route has been surveyed, and of this state, is the establishment of a part of it graded; but the work has line of transportation on a grand scale. been abandoned, at least for the present. A glance at the principal river and its Such favorable views, however, are held 422 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. forth, that it is supposed the project will from some convenient point on that, to yet be accomplished. From some of Tennessee river, would be about one the recent publications on the subject, hundred and forty miles long, only one we derive the following facts respecting hundred of which remains to be provithe country along the route. It will be ded for, and this would cost but about perceived that the mineral treasures now ten thousand dollars a mile, including embosomed in the earth, and of little or machinery, &c. Of course, the whole n, value on account of their inaccessible expense of the one hundred miles, at position, are among the chief advantages this estimate, would be but a million of promised by the advocates of the plan dollars; which the results would well of improvement. The coal lands abound- warrant, if the anticipations entertained ing in that region, are capable of afford- should prove well founded. If the proing abundant supplies of fiel for the use posed work should commence at Mount of steamships in all parts of the gulf of Jefferson (a point on the Molltgomery Mexico, and steamboats on the rivers, as and Westpoint railroad), it would pass well as for the locomotives on railroads, through the counties of Chambers, Talso far as it may be wanted. lapoosa, Randolph, Tallecega, and BenThe distance from Selma to the Ten- ton, to the Double Sprilgs,, on Coosa i nessee river, by a line running north, is river, and thence forty n.lves to Gunter's about one hundred and fifty miles; and Landing, on the TenliFssee, on which the point at which it would be reached part a railroad has alreadAv been projectis at Decatur. Such a line would pass ed, and funds appropriated. This route through the midst of the coal region, has therefore but one hundred miles of and those parts of it which border on railroad to be provilded for, is much the Cahawba and Warrior rivers. Be- shorter than the other (fiom Selma to tween Mulberry creek and Cahawba Decatur), and passes through a more river, the line passes along the water- fertile and populous part of the state, shed; andthere the soil is peculiarly fa- and a region rich in minerals of value. vorable for the construction of a sub- A chief object proposed by the fiiends stantial road, consisting of cretaceous of these improvements is, to connect lime-rocks, of a very solid description. the interests of the two parts of the The Cahawba coal-field commences at state. Northern and southern Alabama Centreville, and is crossed by the line, are now so far divided, by having di&loras is that part of the coal-region called ent channels of trade, that but little of the Warrior coal-field, which lies just that sympathy exists between them. beyond the Mulberry fork, in the east- which is so desirable in the same state, ern part of Walker county. and necessary to its harmony and prosFrom that part of Decatur the coun- perity. Plans are proposed in Georgia, try is of a different formation, but of a for the opening of new routes of transvery solid, firm nature for a railroad, port, by which the trade of the northbeing of granite. Decatur is a town oi eastern counties is likely to be permaconsiderable Lusiness, being advantage- nently drawn off into other channels. ously situated for trade, at the head of The railroad just described would effecthe falls of the Tennessee, at the foot tually counteract such measures, and at of an extensive line of navigation on the same time prove so convenient to that river above the falls, and with the the northwestern parts of the adjoining advantages of a railroad to Tuscumbia, state, that several large counties of on the part of the river below the falls. Georgia would become tributary, in a But another route is also proposed, commercial point of view, to the city of which offers some important advantages Mobile. to recommend it, not promised' by that Alabama has thus much to expect just described. There is a railroad al- from the extension of internal improveready formed and in use, between Mont- ments. Although, by circumstances, gomery and Westpoint, to which we she has been long prevented from mahave before alluded. A route laid out king rapid progress, and was even so 'i __ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 423 situated, as to be unable to begin for a the wisdom to choose the opposite course century or more after her older sisters and to pursue it, what evidences of funof the Union, her exertions made since damental improvement would ere long she has had the power, are very credit- begin to appear. Schools would not able to her leading men, and the results only be opened, but well-filled, well-furhave been such as to stimulate her to nished, andwell-taught. Academies and new projects and new labors. Notwith- colleges would enjoy the patronage and standing the obstacles and discourage- respect of the public, as well as an ocments presented to the extension of in- casional donation from the state treasternal navigation and railroads, there ury. Men would be placed in the genare doubtless streams remaining, on eral direction of education, not because which steamboats may hereafter be run of their political connexions, ability in with advantage, and numerous tracks intriguing, or want of office; but for may be laid through the most important their intellectual and moral merits, and districts, by which places now unpro- their known qualifications to perform vided with the means of transport, may well and faithfully those important dube rendered accessible. There are, for- ties. And they should be secured tunatelv, large deposites of coal and oth- against the evil influence of change in er minerals in different parts of the politics. They should be protected state, which must afford a rich reward against those subversive movements, to the enterprise of those who shall open which have more than once overthrown channels of transportation, by which systems of education, devised and put they can be brought to the manufactory in operation in other states, merely beand the steam-furnace; while the impor- cause they were the works of a party tant advantages to be expected from the no longer in power. In short, the best opening of intercourse between distant men in Alabama, should be at once points of the state and other districts called upon to take into their hands this more distant, will annually increase, and great business, invested with all authorbecome stronger incitements to men of ity necessary, and furnished with every business to give them an improved di- facility requisite to favor the most extenrection, and to bring them within their sive and rapid improvement, and insure own reach. the greatest regularity and permanencty However important may be this de- Even the fear of improper interference partment of the public interest, and how- should be prevented; and then, with ever much praise the state may deserve such measures as good men might defor her early and spirited attention to it, vise, such zeal and perseverance as they it is but of a physical kind, and, from its might be expected to display, and such own nature, necessarily inferior to the cooperation and support as the people intellectual and moral objects for which, might be soon brought to afford to them, as we have before remarked, provision the whole face of society must soon be is made in the constitution of the state. essentially improved, and, in a single If the spirit elf that article should be generation, every department of busicarried into operation, as promptly and ness, and every town, village, and famefficiently and with as much perse- ily, would share in the benefits. verance as has been displayed in the in- Although some other regions are more troduction and extension of steam-routes attractive to the masses of emigrants, by land and water, greater real advan- Alabama has received a large increase tages would be secured, and a still more of population since the commencement substantial foundation would be laid for of her short history as a territory and the future greatness of the state. In- a state. The northern counties, bedustry, commerce, and wealth, may be tween 1810 and 1820, experienced an pursued too exclusively, to the neglect increase of inhabitants of two hundred of education. Such must be allowed to and twenty-two per cent. These are be the case in our country generally. the counties of Franklin, Jackson, If any one of our states should have Lauderdale, Lawrence, Madison, Mor l 424 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. gan, and Limestone, and belong to what perhaps, in Hindostan. The most hardy we have before spoken of as the Ten- species are some of our own; and these nessee section of the state. On the five are extensively cultivated in England T l.htlsand and sixty square miles which and the middle and southern countries they comprise, the population which, in of Europe, and are able to endure the 1810, was only forty-six thousand, in winters without protection. Even the 1820 had increased to one hundred and less hardy species usually succeed there. two thousand. Like our other states, But in the north of Europe they can especially the new ones, Alabama ex- not live through the year, out of the periences th3 various evils arising from glreenhouse. In England, the seeds will the mixture of people of different, and not often come to maturity; but in often foreign origin; and these may be France they ripen well. All the spemost speedily and effectually overcome cies are much admired, for the beauty by a universal, sound, and thorough of their forms and their flowers. The system of common schools, operating most elegant, however, is the grandiflosimultaneously and harmoniously with ra, which abounds in the southern states high schools and universities. Men of the Union, and will be the last dewho have been educated together in scribed. childhood and youth, will feel more like The Glaucous-leaved Magnolia (ill. fellow-citizens through life; especially glauca), called the white bay and the if the education be good, and more es- sweet bay in our southern states, is pecially if it be the best. The public known in more northerly parts of our interests of all descriptions, imperious- country by various names; swamp-sasly demand such a system for the whole safras, swamp-sorrel, swamp-magnolia, country; and whatever state shall lead beaver-wood, and small laurel. It bears the way, first and best, will most wisely the specific name of glauca, among botconsult its own permanent good, and in- anists, on account of the sea-green colevitably secure, for the future, the high- or of its leaves; and the name of beaest place for itself among the benefac- ver-tree, given it in certain parts of the tors of the nation, and the directors of Union, is owing to its roots being eaten its destiny. with great avidity by beavers. AccordTHE MAGNOLIAS.-Having described ing to Micheaux, those animals prefer some of the chief vegetable productions it, when felling timber to construct their belonging to some of the states, before dams, because the softness of its woods closing our account of them, on the pre- renders it very easy for them to gnaw. ceding pages, we may perhaps properly This species is sometimes found forty introduce here a description and history feet in height, and ten or twelve inches of the magnolias, the finest of which in diameter; but not usually above are common to most of the southern twenty feet. The trunk is crooked, and states. For the following facts, re- divides into several limbs. The bark is specting this elegant genus of plants, gray and bitter to the taste; the leaves we have been?argely indebted to a late are five or six inches long, of a shining work: " The Trees of America, by D. bluish green above, and greenish beJ. Browne." neath. It is often an evergreen; and The several species, ranged under the even when not strictly so, sometimes regenus Magnolia, form a splendid collec- tains many of its leaves through the tion, which it would perhaps be impos- winter. sible to rival in the world. They are The flowering begins in the South indigenous to the southern parts of late in April or early in May, and often North America, but nowhere on our continues in autumn. In New England southern continent; while in the east- it begins about six weeks later. The ern hemisphere they are not to be found flowers grow from the extremities of as natives either in Europe, Africa, or the shoots of the previous years, and Australia. In Asia, are several species, are two or three inches broad, with six but only in China and Japan. unless, white concave petals. The fragrance i _ _ 1! -- DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 425 is peculiarly rich and powerful, being ject of great beauty. The fiagrance perceptible at a distance; and, when emitted is strong. kept in a close room, soon becoming al- In OctLber the fruit becomes ripe, most insupportable. The seed-vessel is and it is five inches in length, of a rich of a cceical shape, about an inch and rose color, with thirty or more seeds. a half in length, full of little cells, which It is found as high as the northern counopen and let the seeds drop out. They ties of New York, and with the M. are, however, attached to slender threads, grandiflora on the alluvial grounds of which hold them hanging for some time Georgia. Since its introduction into in the air. This peculiarity belongs to England in 1752, it has been extended all the magnolias. in Europe, and is said to be the most The glaucous-leaved magnoliahas two common of the magnolias on the contivarieties: the arborea, or tall, and the nent. It requires a sheltered and shady sempervirens, or evergreen; and there position. It is best propagated from are several others, some of which are seeds, which must be planted very soon supposed to be hybrids. after they fall. It is short-lived, and its This species is the most extensive in wood is of no use; but it is one of the its geographical range near the sea, be- most ornamental trees. ing found further north than any other The Large-leaved Jliagiwolia (l. maof the magnolias. The highest spot crofylla) has very large deciduous leaves, where it has been observed, is said to oblong-ovate, of about the same size as be a sheltered swamp in Manchester, the preceding, but much more rare. Cape Annl, about thirty miles beyond The bark is smooth and white, by which Boston. It is there but a small tree, it is easily known in the winter. The and is frequently cut down to the ground leaves are not less than thirty-five inches by severe frosts. In Florida and Lou- long in the forests, slender and pointed, isiana, it is abundant in wet situations, and of a light green. In May, June, and in Georgia and the Carolinas is con- and July, it puts forth large flowers, fined to the pine barrens. sometimes eight or nine inches in diamThe wood is sometimes used for join- eter, with a purple spot in the centre, ers' tools, while the bark is sometimes and a rich odor. The fruit nearly readministered in cases of fever. sembles that of the preceding variety. The Umbrella Magnolia (M. tripeta- This plant was discovered bythe elder la), often called the umbrella-tree, and, Michaux in 1789, and first sent to Euini Virginia, elkwood, is remarkably rope in 1800. The largest individual uniform and graceful in the arrangement in England is at Arley Hall, which, in of its leaves. The shoots have a resem- 1837, was twenty-eight and a half feet blance to the young horns of the elk; high. It is raised fiom seeds with and hence probably the origin of the greater facility and certainty than in any name by which it is known in the moun- other way. tainous regions of Virginia. The leaves The Pointed-leaved Mlagnolia (M. acuare deciduous and lanceolate, petals minata), called the cucumber-tree in nine, the outer ones pendant. It is very this country, and the blue magnolia in seldom higher than thirty-five or forty England, grows most abundantly on the feet, or thicker than five or six inches, rivers of upper Georgia and western and usually much smaller. The stem is South Carolina. This is one of the nocommonly inclined. The leaves are blest of our forest-trees, growing to the ov-al and acuminate at both ends, near height of sixty feet, and in May, adorntwenty inches long, and seven or eight ed with bluish or yellowish white flowwide. Being thus long and narrow, and ers, five or six inches broad, with a deloften growing around a centre, they icate odor. It is called the cucumbergive the appearance of an umbrella; tree, from the resemblance of its fruit or and, when adorned with the flowers, seed-vessel to cucumbers when green. which are about eight inches in diame- There are several varieties of this speter, in May and June, present an ob- cies, chiefly distinguished by the shape 426 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. of the leaf. Of these the principal is neither of them has been extensively the heart-leaved cucumber-tree. It was introduced into the United States. introduced into England in 1801. It Thie Magnolia Grandiflora, or largeattains the height of forty or fifty feet, leaved magnolia, we have yet to notice, and bears leaves from four to six inches in and this is the most splendid species of length, and firom three to five in breadth. the kind, the most admired and the most It blooms in April, and the flowers are cultivated. It is known by several othyellow, streaked with reddish within, er names in different parts of this counand three or four inches in diameter. try: as the laurel-leaved and large flowThe acuminate magnolia grows as far ering evergreen magnolia, bay-tree, launorth as Niagara, and abounds in the rel-bay, and big laurel. Cumberland mountains. It was discov- It is an evergreen, with oval-oblong ered in 1736, by John Bartram, sent to leaves, shining on their upper surface, England to Peter Collingson, and soon and rusty beneath. The flowers are propagated in Europe bylayers. Trees erect, with fiom nine to twelve petals, of large size are now numerous in Eng- expanding. " Of all the trees of North land, France, and northern Italy, forty America," says Browne, "the largeand sixty feet in height, which bloom leaved magnolia'is the most remarkable abundantly. In the old Bartrambotan- for the majesty of its form, the magnifiic garden, near Philadelphia, is one cence of its foliage, and the beauty of eighty feet high, and three feet in diam- its flowers. It claims a place among eter, which was brought firom Lake Erie the largest trees of the forest, varying in 1753, and furnishes most of the seeds fiom one hundred feet and upward in of this species annually sent to Europe. height, and from two to three in diameMoist situations on declivities or narrow ter. Its head often forms a perfect valleys are favorable to this species. cone, placed on a clean, straight trunk, The wood is remarkably light and resembling a beautiful column; and, chosen for canoes. *Where it abounds from its dark green foliage, silvered over it is used for joiner-work. with milk-white flowers, it is seen at a The Ear-leaved Magnolia (1I. anri- great distance." colata), or longleaved cucumber-tree, is The leaves are from half a foot to a also known in some parts of the United foot in length, and three or four inches States by the name of Indian physic and broad, smooth and polished, and varywashoo. The leaves are deciduous ing considerably in form, being oblong, and smooth, spatulately obovate, cordate oval, acuminate, &c., &c. In our southat the base, with blunt approximate au- ern states, the flowers appear in April ricles. It grows to the height of thirty or May, but in the north, as in England or forty feet, straight, with wide branch- and France, in June or July; and some es pointing upward. The leaves are of the varieties continue in blossom uneight or nine inches in length, four or til the frost. In the size of the flowers, six wide, ard of a light green; and, on as well as that of the entire plant, this young trees, often much larger. There splendid species excels its congeners: is a round lobe on each side of the peti- their diameterbeingfiroli six to ten inch- I ole. The footstalks are short and radi- es. The length of the flowering season, ating, which gives the clusters of leaves is another very great advantage: most the form of an umbrella. It flowers in of the other species of magnolia giving April and May, and the petals are white. out their floweis at once, and soon dropIt is found on a portion of the Allegany ping them. In autumn, when the seedrange, in North Carolina; and a variety vessels are left bare, they exhibit a beauof it in the western parts of Georgia tiful and delicate appearance, being conand Carolina. The bark is infused in ical, and, when they open, dropping out spirits for a sudorific in fevers. a few seeds, which remain for several The Conspicuous-leaved Magnolia is a days hanging by slender filaments. BeChinese tree, and the Purple-Flowered ing of a blood-red color, they make a Magnolia is a native of Japan; and very rich and striking display. L~ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 427 Peculiar attention has been directed its geological chalacter. While their atto the M. magniflora by foreign garden- tention was attracted to many natural ers, and numerous varieties have been wonders in the more mountainous Ioproduced, which have been regarded by gions, the moqt conspicuous among them some as distinct races. Among these w.as the "natural bridge" which they deare distinguished the obovate, round- scribed as follows:leaved, Exmouth, rusty-leaved, lanceo- "It is situated in Walker county, late-leaved, elliptic-leaved, &c. about a mile from the road, and on the The native regions of the splendid property of a man by the name of West, tree is comprised within the maritime but yet would well repay a traveller by districts of South Carolina, Georgia, the beauty of the scenery for deviating Florida, Alabama, and Louisiana; and a little from his regular route. It ocup the Mississippi to Natchez, extend- curs in that geological deposite termed ing a little way into North Carolina and the millstone grit, the lowest one in the Texas on the Brazos. It was introdu- coal measures-the only rock which, in ced into France iu 1732, but not extend- Alabama,'exhibits the truly wild and ed until after 1760. It was admired by romantic grandeur of Nature. Before the Indians, who used the bark of the reaching it, our imaginations had been roots, mixed with snakeroot, in fevers. considerably elevated by the descriptions The propagation of this noble and el- given by our guide; but, notwithstandegant tree may well excite particular in- infg, when the reality broke upon us in terest in Alabama, as well as in other its full magnificence, we found that our of ouI' southern regions, to which the expectations fell very far short of the soil and climate adapt it. As twenty or truth. This grand structure of the Great thirty years' growth is necessary to Architect spans about one hundred and bring one of the plants from ~he seed to twenty feet, while its height is about the first flowering season, that manner seventy. A smaller bridge connects it of propagation should never be resorted with the bluff beyond. to, for purposes of ornament. If layers "The symmetry of the main arch will are resorted to, they must remain two make it almost indestructible, though of years before they are ready to be potted. course its regularity has only been proCare is required, in transplanting them, duced by the undermining and breaking to place the earth well about the roots, down of the rock which, at some byand to keep it well shaded for several gone time, existed below it. The cleavweeks. The Exmouth varieties some- age marks of the massive sandstone of times bears flowers the second year, which it is formed cause it, even in the with great care. more minute construction, to resemble Among the objects worthy of the at- an artificial bridge, as these lines make tention of' men of taste and public spir- it appear as if built with regularlyit in Alabama, and our other new states, worked blocks. Beneath it are many is the planting of shade-trees in the pieces of broken and partially watertowns and villages: among which the worn rocks-materials, as it were, left magnolias hold a prominent place, espe- by the builders; and these, together cially the grandiflora. with the mighty escarpments round NATURAL BRIDGE IN ALABAMA.-The about, would impart a most grand asNatural Bridge over Cedar creek, near pect, even if that were not produced by Lexington, in Virginia, has been noticed the bridge itself. A little spring trickling at length on a previous page, in our from between these broken masses make description of the beautiful scenery of it a frequent resort of the deer, which that state. Alabama, too, possesses a abound in that part of the country, and " natural bridge," which is spoken of as whose numerous footprints on the soft rivalling the far-famed one of Virginia. soil indicate a favorite lick. Lofty hemProfessor Toumey of Alabama, state locks and beech trees growing on the geologist, and an associate, have recently bridge, and near by, shade it from the been traversing that state, investigating rays of the sun." 426 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPT. A Wooding Station on the Mississippi. MISSISSIPPI. THis state is bounded north by Tennessee, east by Alabama, south:___ —-' _ by the Mississippi river. It lies between 300 8' and 350 north latitude, and 100 12' and 120 42' west ___ —---- -- -'. —-. ~~ longitude, from Washington. Its entire outline measures 1,203 miles, of which large portions lie along the Mississippi and the Tennessee. Exti'eme length from north to south, 337 miles; mean breadth, 135 mile; area, 45,760 square miles. There is a gentle declivity in the east part of the state toward the Tombigbee river; but the grand general slope is toward the Mississippi, having abrupt bluffs at a considerable distance from the bank, and leaving a wide, low tract of land between them, which is subject to inundations. That part of the state is crossed by the following streams, which are small tributaries of the great river of North America, viz.: Yazoo, Big Black, Bayou, Pierre, and Homochitto. Pearl river, a considerable stream, has its source in the central part of the state; and flowing south-southwest, nearly parallel with the Big Black, for a distance of eighty miles, then turns south-southeast, runs one hundred and fifty miles, and empties;nto the Rigolets between Lake Pontchartrain and Boyne. The soil of the state is generally thin, but in some places very rich, especially on the narrow border of lowlands along the bank of the Mississippi, above mentioned. Cotton, indigo, and tobacco, flourish so well, that they have been, in turns, the staple productions. Indian corn, potatoes, and various other useful plants, are also cultivated with great success. l America, viz.: Yazoo, Big Black, Bayou, Pierre, and Homochitto. Pearl river, 0~~~~~~~~~~.. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. 429 Among fruits, peaches and figs are the by the fear of their powerful enemies; most abundant; but the climate is favor- and as the French made no further atable to almost every kind except those tempt to occupy the place, it was left confined to the tropics. The indigenous desolate until the year 1763, when it was trees most abundant are the pine, oak ceded to Great Britain. From that time of different varieties and species, hic- a few respectable settlers arrived from kory, sweetgum, liriodendron, tulip-tree, Europe, New England, and elsewhere; beech, persimmon, blackwalnut, black- but the events which took place for some locust, honeylocust, redmaple, dogwood, years subsequently were very unfavorchinquipin, spicewood, papau, &c. The able to the populating of the country. great reedcane (arundo gigantea) for- The fort at Natchez was taken sevmerly abounded in the low grounds; but eral times by the Spaniards, English, and it has been nearly rooted out. Americans. In 1781, Governor Galvey, The temperature at Natchez is varia- of Louisiana, conquered Florida, and by ble, and, although usually mild in win- the treaty of Paris it was ceded to the ter, has sometimes been as cold as twelve United States. degrees, Fahrenheit, above zero. Frost On the 7th of April, 1798, congress, is always experienced there, in some by an act, authorized the president of degree, in the course of the cold season, the United States to appoint commisand snow is occasionally seen; so that sioners to adjust the claims between it is not surprising that neither sugar- Florida, Louisiana, and the acquired tercane nor orange-trees are to be found ritory north of latitude thirty-one deabove thirty-one degrees of latitude. grees and west of Chatahoochee:river; The climate is about two degrees colder and on the 10th of that month made than on the Atlantic. In summer, heats provision for a territorial government. and drought are often unintermitted for A territory was therefore formed, and a long period. The state is generally named Mississippi territory, which inhealthy, although intermittent fevers are cluded, not only the present state of common along the banks of some of the Mississippi, but also that of Alabama. streams. The prevailing winds, as in An act of congress was passed on the the southwestern states generally, are 9th of July, 1808, admitting a delegate westerly, and chiefly from the north- from Mississippi; and on the 17th of west. June the assent of Georgia was deThe first settlement made in this state manded to the formation of two states by Europeans was by the French at out of Mississippi territory. But, alNatchez in 1716, when a fort was built though the demand was acceded to, it by permission of the Indians, a power- was not until December, 1817, that any ful tribe, who inhabited the bluff. In change was made. A petition had been 1723 the foreigners were involved in a presented on the 21st of January, 1815, war with the natives, which was ter- from the Mississippi legislature, praying minated by a body of French troops that a state might be constituted. A marched from New Orleans by Governor favorable report on this petition was Bienville, who were too powerful to be made in December, 1816; and by an resisted by the savages, and they sub- act passed March 1st, 1817, the people mitted. were authorized to hold a convention, In 1729, the French having become which assembled in July following. A very numerous at Natchez, the com- constitution having been drawn up, it mandant (Choteau), by ill-treating the was adopted August 15th, and was conIndians, excited them to revenge; and firmed by congress in December folby a sudden attack, while the garrison lowing. were secure and unprepared, they cut The government consists of a gov4ff about seven hundred persons, of ernor, and a general assembly of two th sexes, leaving alive scarcely enough houses (a senate and a house of reprecarry the news. The Indians, how- sentatives). To be a candidate for the rer, were soon driven from their homes senate, a man must be twenty-six years i 430 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. of age, a citizen of the Utrited States, have brought to light curiosities of the for four years previously an inhabitant most interesting nature. of the state, and one year an inhabitant On the shore, at the foot of the bluff, of his district; he must hold, in his own are strewn great numbers of tubes, reright, three hundred acres of land in sembling, at first sight, the bodies of Mississippi, or an interest in real estate old trees, formed of iron ore, and filled of one thousand dollars' value, at the with earth, and which appear to have tim~e of election and for six months pre- fallen from the bank. The remains of viously. Senators are elected for three numerous kinds of extinct animals are years. To be candidate for a seat as a contained in the ground at different representative, citizenship of the United depths; while on the present surface a States is required; two years' residence mound has been opened, which contains in the state, and one year's residence in bones and implements of men of a race the county, city, or town of which he is anterior to the present red men; and candidate; an age of twenty-one years; trees of great age were growing over and the ownership of one hundred and the spot. fifty acres of land, or five hundred dol- PoPULATION.-According to the cenlars in real estate for six months. sus of 1850 the population of Mississippi Voters must be free white citizens of was 605,488, by counties, as follows:the United States; twenty-one years of NTorthern District. —Attila, 10,999; age; residents of the state for the last Bolivar, 2,577; Carroll, 18,485; Chickyear, and of their district for the last asaw, 16,368; Choctaw, 11,403; Coasix months; enrolled in the militia, or homa, 2,780; De Soto, 18,052; Itaexempts; or have paid a state or county wamba, 13,311; La Fayette, 14,069; tax. Lowndes, 19,547; Marshall, 29,690; The governor is elected by electors, Monroe, 21,131; Noxubee, 16,257; and holds his office two years, and until Oktibbeha, 9,171; Panola, 11,459; Ponhis successor shall be duily qualified. totoc, 17,112; Sunflower, 1,060; TalHe must be thirty years of age; twenty lahatchee, 4,643; Tippah, 20,740; Tishyears a citizen of the United States; a omingo, 15,148; Tunica, 1,314; Winsresident of the state five years; and the ton, 7,986; Yallabusha, 17,260. Total, owner of two thousand dollars for the 300,561; of which number 133,672 were past year. slaves. There is a supreme court, and from Southern District.-Adams, 18,621; four to eight judges of the supreme and Amite, 9,624; Claiborne, 14,903; Clarke, superior courts, who hold office during 5,477; Copiah, 11,710; Covington, 3,348, good behavior, but may be removed by Franklin, 5,904; Green, 2,018; Hanaddress to the governor of two thirds cock, 3,672; Harrison, 4,875; Hinds, of both houses of the legislature, or by 25,310; Holmes, 13,930; Issaquena, impeachment by the house before the 4,478; Jackson, 3,196; Jasper, 6,174; senate. The age of sixty-five limits the Jefferson, 13,393; Jones, 2,135; Kemterm of judgeship. The sixth article per, 12,517; Lauderdale, 8,708; Lawof the seventh section of the constitution rence, 6,485; Leake, 5,535; Madison, forbids any minister of the gospel or 18,173; Marion, 4,410; Neshoba, 4,560; priest to hold the offices of governor, Newton, 4,466; Perry, 2,438; Pike, lieutenant-governor, or a place in the I 7,357; Rankin, 7,227; Scott, 3,979; legislature. No officers of the United Simpson, 4,735; Smith, 4,071; WarStates, except postmasters, are admitted ren, 19,998; Washington, 8,389; Wayne, to offices in the state. 2,892; Wilkinson, 16,638; Yazoo, 13,The geology of the western border of 582. Total, 304,927, of which 174,495 Mississippi has some most remarkable were slaves. features. The land on the bank of the NATCHEZ, the principal town, is adgreat river appears to have undergone vantageously situated on the summit a: wonderful revolutions; and recent in- side of a high bluff, on the eastern bai vestigations in the vicinity of Natchez of Mississippi river, three hundred an DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. 431 one miles from New Orleans by the Rosalie on that eminence, but afterward river; about five hundred miles from St. massacred the garrison. Louis, and one thousand one hundred Steamboats arrive daily from New and forty-six from Washington city. Orleans, and others depart for that imThe soil is rich, and the climate de- portant city; and a similar communicalightful in the winter. The vicinity is tion is kept up with St. Louis, Cincinadorned with many fine residences, where nati, and the otherprincipal places above, elegant houses are seen embosomed in on the mighty river and some of its luxuriant groves, amid a wonderful pro- branches. Stagecoaches depart three fusion of flowers and fruits. The streets, times a week for Jackson and for St. which are straight and regularly laid out, Francisville, Louisiana. are chiefly on the high ground, which is The Mississippi Railroad leads to elevated from a hundred and fifty to Washington, sixteen miles, and Maltwo hundred feet above the river. The colm, fourteen miles beyond. nature of the soil, however, is unfavor- The distance from Natchez to New able for the situation of a town, as a Orleans by land is only two hundred loose sandstone-rock, which lies so low and eleven miles. The route is first by as to be observable only at low water, stagecoach to Coldspring, twenty miles, is the only substratum of a high bluff and Woodville, fifteen miles; thence by composed of clay, intermingled in some railroad to Laurel hill, eleven miles, and parts with sand. Violent rains, there- St. Francisville, seventeen miles. The fore, sometimes form large cavities in route then passes Port Hudson, Baton the surface, which is irregular and often Rouge, Manchac, Iberville, New River, changing. A large part of the lower Donaldsville, Bringier's, Bonnet Carre, town was destroyed a few years ago, by and Lafayette, two miles fiom New the falling of the bank near the water. Orleans. From Natchez to Cincinnati The houses are generally of wood, and (Ohio) the land-route is first by the railmany of them are constructed with taste, road to Washington and Malcolm, then and, adorned with trees and gardens. by stagecoaches through Gallatin, JackThere are four churches, a courthouse, son, Springfield, Louisville, Choctaw three banks, an academy, a female sem- Agency, Columbus, Florence, and Nashinary, a masonic-hall, theatre, orphan ville, to Cincinnati, seven hundred and asylum, hospital, &c. The population, sixty miles. at the present time, probably exceeds Some of the most remarkable features five thousand. of the Mississippi river-the greatest The wharves are the scene of active stream of North America, and one of business, as an extensive trade is carried the largest in the world-are most easily on in cotton, which is produced in great observable from the elevated position quantities in the neighborhood; and nu- which Natchez affords to the spectator. merous boats, rafts, and steamboats, lie The tortuous course which it Fursues, or touch at the wharves. The situation through a considerable part of its length, of the town, on a prominent elevation, causes numerous eddies, one of the distinguishes it as the principal place on largest of which is in this vicinity. These this part of the Mississippi, where the eddies, when known and properly used banks are generally low, and almost in- by pilots, afford important facilities to visible from the waters. It was as much vessels passing up the stream, as in some distinguished in former times as at the places they run northward for a considpresent day, having been the residence erable distance, at the rate of one, two, of the most powerful Indian tribe in this or more miles an hour. When not region, whose chief, denominated the known, or when the navigator is deGreat Sun, was undisputed ruler over ceived by the weather, they sometimes the surrounding country, which he over- cause great embarrassment and loss of looked from his lofty fort on the summit time. Some years ago, a flat-bottomed of the bluff. This was the chief who boat was passing down the river, with a permitted the French to erect Fort load of produce for New Orleans, when L, 432 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MlSSISSIPPI. the boatmen heard music at night on the one with numerous prongs or branches neighboring shore. The air was then so is denominated a snag. Of these the misty, that it was impossible to distin- planter is often an object of the greatest guish distant objects; and they floated dread, when wholly sunken, as it may on for some time, until their ears were penetrate a boat's bottom in an instant. again greeted with a similar sound. At A sawyer, also, is very dangerous; for about an equal interval, music was again while a boat lies against it, and is pressed heard; and they came to the conclusion upon it by the current, the motion of the that the inhabitants of the bank were water keeps the end of the log altercelebrating some general festival, pre- nately rising and sinking, which may suming that they were passing one vil- quickly cut through the side or upper lage, or hamlet, after another. Thus works, and cause material injury. they continued to move on through a Such, however, have been the labor great part of the night, and judged they and expense devoted by the United were making rapid progress on their States government, for years past, to the voyage. Morning, however, at length clearing of the channels from obstrucdispelled the mists and their delusion. tions, that few of these now remain in They found themselves in the great ed- situations where they are likely to cause dy, which has a regular sweep of about injury-though new changes, of course, five miles at a particular stage of the require new care. water; and they had been floating round Natchez has frequently been visited and round its wide circle for several by the yellow-fever, and with fatal efhours, passing a solitary house, then dis- fect; for although the state generally is tinguishable on the shore, where a small far more healthful than Louisiana, some party had spent the time in mirth and parts of it are not safe from this scourge music. of oar southern regions, and this its The looseness of the earth along the principal town has suffered most sebanks, and the low level of land in most verely. This must be assigned as one places, give occasion to some surprising of the principal causes of the slow inphenomena. The channels are contin- crease of population. The neighboring nually liable to changes, as the current low ground, much of which is inunis strong enough to wear away the earth dated by the river, must be the principal in any direction to which it may be source of the contagion. turned, either by an obstruction or the JACKSON, the capital, is situated on removal of an obstacle. The earth thus Pearl river, on a plain about a quarter torn away in one place is deposited in of a mile from its left bank, and is acanother, together with some of the par- cessible in small vessels. The streets tides brought down from the upperparts are regular, and the town contains seveof the stream, or its branches, in the an- ral public buildings worthy of particular nual floods. A bank undermined soon notice. The statehouse is a handsome falls, often with a mass of timber; and edifice, and there are also the state-pentrees then float along, until stopped by itentiary, the governor's house, and the some shoal, or entangled at the bottom. United States land-office. The number These, becoming imbedded by the rapid of inhabitants in 1850 was four thousand I accumulation of sand, often stand fixed five hundred. for years, and, if allowed to remain, ex- Centennary College, founded in 1841, pose the numerous rafts and boats to is a.methodist institution, and has a danger. The boatmen designate these president, five professors, and about one obstructions by different names, accord- hundred and seventy students. ing to the manner in which they are A railroad leads to Vicksburg, and placed in the ground. A log or tree cars arrive and depart daily; and stagefixed upright in the bottom of the river coaches go to Nashville (Tennessee) via is called- a planter; one pointing up- Columbus and Florence (Alabama), and ward in a slanting direction, and move- to Gainesville. Those for Natchez go able by the current, is called a sawyer; three times a week. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. 433 GRAND GULF.-This town bears the steamboats. Stagecoaches go to Holly name of a remarkable bend in the Mis- Springs three times a week. The popsissippi, on which it is built, three hun- ulation is only about eight hundred, but dred and fifty-two miles above New it is a place of considerable business, Orleans. It has a townhall, an hospital, and. contains several large stores. two churches, and a theatre. The pop- HOLLY SPRINGS.-The situation of ulation is about fifteen hundred. It has a this town is elevated, on the summit of daily communication with New Orleans a range of hills near the headsprings of by steam, Yazoo river. The surrounding country WASHINGTON. —This town has apleas- is rich and pleasant. The number of ant situation, on a gentle elevation, six inhabitants is about one thousand seven miles east of Natchez, and contains a hundred, and the town contains a courtfew detached but neat and handsome house, an academy, and three churches. dwellings. It has two churches, and is Stagecoaches go to Memphis every day, distinguished as the site of and depart three times in the week by Washington College. —This institution several routes for La Grange, Tuscumwas founded in 1802, and received from bia (Alabama), Columbus, Jackson, Yacongress an endowment in a grant of zoo City, and Commerce. land. The buildings are of brick; and CoLuMBus.-This town is one hunit contains a library of about one thou- dred and forty-one miles distant from sand volumes, a chemical apparatus, a the seat of government, on a hill on the geological collection, and specimens of left bank of Tombigbee river, one hunvarious fossil remains, such as we have dred and twenty feet above its level. before referred to as being found in this The stream is crossed by a handsome vicinity. bridge. The public buildings consist Ellicot's spring is a fine source of of a courthouse, an academy, two banks,'water rising on the college grounds; five churches, a market, a theatre, and several other springs in this neighbor- a female seminary. The population is hood are remarkable for their excellent about ten thousand. water. Steamboats run firom Columbus to PORT GIBSON.-This is a small town Mobile, and stagecoaches depart every on Bayou Pierre; it is eight miles from day for Jackson and Vicksburg, as well Grand Gulf, and twenty-five miles from as for Nashville (Tenn.), through Tusthe Mississippi by water. It has three cumbia, and three times a week for churches, a courthouse, an academy, and Pontotoc, Holly Springs, and Memphis. over two thousand inhabitants. The inundations of the low grounds VIcKsBURG.-This town is on the Mis- adjacent to the lower parts of the Mississippi, five hundred and thirteen miles sissippi, are among the most striking from New Orleans by water, and is quite phenomena connected with it. The bed flourishing, though of recent date. It of the stream is, in some places, much contains a courthouse, five,cllurches, higher than the level of the adjacent three academies, and a theatre, with fields, and whole plantations are actuabout five thousand inhabitants. The ally below the surface of the river. The surrounding region is very fertile, and flood begins on the lower branches of the town mikes a very picturesque ap- I the Mississippi, some time before the pearance, presenting many clusters of warm season is sufficiently advanced to dwellings, scattered along the melt the deeper snows in the more of several eminences, just below the distant northerly parts, near its upper Walnut hills. Steamboats from New sources. The regions from which the Orleans arrive and depart daily, as well floods are derived lie between latitude as from St. Louis (Missouri). forty-two and fifty degrees, and at difYAzoo CITY.-This town stands on ferent elevations from twelve hundred Yazoo river, at the distance of four hun- to five thousand feet above the ocean. dred and ninety-three miles from New The heat of summer prevails at New Orleans, and is connected with it by Orleans some time before any change 28 434 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. of elevation is made at the mouth of the tions, when the inhabitants are situated river by the water derived from its head in the midst of a wide expanse of water, streams. About the end of February with an irresistible current sweepilt ng the waters begin to arrive from the along, wearing away the unstable founlower tributaries which flow from re- dations of their fabric, and threatening gions of fiost and snow. By gradual to scatter its parts over the face of the but irregular increase, the surface con- waters, leaving them no ark for safety. tinues to rise from the end of that month, ANTIQUITIES. - Some persons have. when the Red river pours in its early fancied a resemblance between some of flooe, until late in the summer, when the the remains of former inhabitants found last surplus waters arrive from the snows in the western mounds, and those discovmelted long before on the elevated sur- ered in the pyramids, catacombs, and face near the northern lakes. other depositories of ancient times in The loneness of the bank of the Mis- the old world. The following remarks sissippi, along a great part of the west- on the subject we abbreviate from the ern border of this state, with the loose remarks of Mr. Squier, who has been nature of the alluvial soil, renders it successfully engaged in examining many almost impossible to erect even a single of the remains in the west:l building near the water's edge, except at "There are many coincidences beparticular places, many of which are at tween the remains of antiquity in the old considerable distances from each other. and new worlds; but coincidences do Yet along this part of the river it is pe- not necessarily imply community of orculiarly important to have depositories igin, or even regular or accidental interof wood for the use of steamboats, which course.... The wants of man, his hopes consume fuel in such quantities that a and ambition, have always and everyfull supply can not be taken in at the where been very much the same, and commencement of the voyage. So great have, almost of necessity, resulted in it the demand, that, in spite of the nu- common methods of gratification...... merous obstacles interposed by nature, The comparisons which I shall make wooding stations, as they are called, have between the ancient remains of our own been established in considerable num- country and those of Egypt, are instibers, some by driving piles into the bank, tuted with no view to prove an identity and laying platforms on the top, elevated of origin, but as a new and curious ilsufficiently to be above the floods; and lustration of the philosophical axiom there quantities of wood, cut for the already laid down. Upon one hand, we steamers' furnaces, are piled, and small have the monuments of a people whose tenements erected barely sufficient for hieroglyphical annals are now resuscithe habitation of a few persons, and tated by the Champollionists, around sometimes designed only for a single whom cluster the recollections of more man. These are the only stopping- than five thousand years, the subject places for steamboats in long distances, alike of sacred and profane history; where towns are rare; and only here upon the other, the relics of a race rehas the traveller any opportunity to ob- specting whom the voice of History is serve the river's banks, or any of the mute, andl whose very name is lost to productions of nature, sometimes so at- tradition itself.... The pyramid is but tractive to a naturalist. a developed mound, marking in its suThe reader is referred to the vignette perior structure only a more advanced at the head of this description, for an stage of man's progress. Many oqf the accurate representation of a Mississippi large mounds of the Mississippi vailey " wooding station;" as a view of it will were places of sepulture-not for the naturally impress the mind with ideas mass of the people, as has been generof the great loneliness of such a retreat, rally supposed, but for chieftains; and, especially at seasons when least visited like the pyramids, had sepulchral chamby passing boats; and with those of bers-not lined with polished granite in gloom and danger during the inunda- massive blocks, but built of timber or b''""' ""~~~~~~~~ ~~w~~b~' ~~~~~~""b DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. 435 of unhewn stones. As in the pyramids, copper bracelets from the mounds, perthese chambers were constructed at the fect counterparts of some in Mr. Glidbase, and the dead body, after proper en- don's collection from Egypt; also some velopment, deposited within them, with beads of blue and green enamel or glass, its ornaments and badges of power and the production of one of the western authority. The great mound at Grave Indian tribes of the present day, hardly creek, like the great pyramid of Ghiza, distinguishable from similar Egyptian had two chambers, one placed thirty ornaments. He also adverted in further feet above the other-occupying, indeed, illustration to the subject of pottery. the same relative positions in respect "In their pottery," he continues, to each other and the structure in which " we also observe marked resemblances, they were contained. The explanation both in shape, material, and finish. In of the circumstance is undoubtedly the all primitive earthen vessels (found only same in both cases-the upper part con- in alluvial countries in ancient times), taining a subsequent deposite, perhaps we recognise the gourd as the model: the son or successor of the occupant of the vessel, in the first instance, being the lower and earlier chamber.... formed over the shell, which was after"We need not go out of our own wardremovedbyfire. Uponthisnatural country to mark the gradual develop- suggestion-a hint which nature everyment of the mound tombs. As we go where holds out —man has improved southward, we find them increasing both in his course of development, and the in size and regularity. In Louisiana, elegant vase has supplanted the gourdbrick enters into their construction; and shaped vessel of his primitive artisanin Mexico, they pass into the regular ship. In some of the sculptures found pyramidal form, are built of stone, and in the mounds, we have singular, but rival the monuments of Egypt in size. undoubtedly entirely accidental, coinciThe large pyramid of Teotihuacan is dences in form with those to which penot less than two hundred and twenty- culiar significance was attached by the one feet in height, with a base six hun- Egyptians. The hawk with a human dred and eighty-two feet square. It is head, sculptured from the hardest porbuilt of stones cemented together, and phyry, closely resembles the symbolical the whole was originally coated with a representation of the soul which appears layer of pure white cement. The sec- sculptured on Egyptian tombs. The ond pyramid, which has been most thor- crane in the attitude of striking a fish, oughly investigated, has interior cham- also exquisitely sculptured in porphyry, bers, communicating with the exterior is the urn:versal hieroglyphical symbol, by narrow passages, lined with brick. signifying to fish, fishing, or fisher... Surrounding these, as the tombs cluster "It has been a very favorite theory around the Memphite pyramids, are to derive the ancient or early Americans, thousands of small monuments, which in whole or part, for Egypt and Hinwere significantly designated, by the dostan; and an equally favorite one to ancient inhabitants, the l/Iicoatl, or Path transport them from Palestine, from of the Dead. Tartary, and even fiom the north of "The mound-builders used copper Europe! Volumes have been written axes, identical with those of Egypt, Pe- in support of these theories, and the ru, and Mexico." most sweeping conclusions have been Mr. Squier has collected several cop- advanced, based upon coincidences less per axes from the mounds, in contrast striking than those here pointed out." with those of the several nations above In relation to the various quadrupeds named, between which it was difficult, if which once existed in this region, recent not impossible, to distinguish. He also scientific observations have brought to possesses some axes of flint and green light evidences more definite and certain. stone from Denmark, and others from The mastodon, mammoth, &c., have left the mounds, which display an identity their bones here; while the origin of the of shape and workmanship; also, some ancient race of men is conjectural. 436 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. i \ LOUISIANA. Tnis state is, in many respects, the most peculiar country on the globe, Its southern border rests upon the gulf' of' Mexico, a vast in, land sea, in latitude below twentynine degrees north; its northern boundary reaches to thirty-three degirees; its eastern boundary is the Pearl river, which separates it firom Alabama, to latitude thirtyone degrees, when the great AMississippi becomes the dividing line from posite. the state that receives its name; while its western extremity is limited by the Sabine. The whole southern portion of this state, over three hundred miles in length by an aveirage width of nearly seventy-five miles, is exclusively an alluvial deposite. If to tlhis be added similar dleposites on the great river and its tributaries above, it presents a delta of comparatively recent formation, far surpassing any other, within the same compass, in any quarter of the world. Even those of the Nile, the Euphrates, and every other' large river except the Ganges, are inconsi.derable formations in comparison with this magnificent encroachment on the ocean bed. And still the struggle is onward and irresistible. The vast body of water which debouches into the gulf fi'om several mouths, has its rise more than five thousand miles above, by the course of the stream; and fiom its remotest source, and by every one of its innumerable branches, it is bringing down the ancient elevations, and spreading them over the tidewaters, the future fruitful | alabode of civilized man. Opposite the city of New Orleans, the trunk of the river has a breadth of two thousand five hundred feet, with an average depth of one hundred, through which DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 437 the water passes with a mean velocity finished what she has so auspiciously of two feet per second. During a flood, commenced, large additions, and in a this velocity is greatly augmented, and state far more fitted to reward their efthe water contains about a thousandth forts, would have been subjected to their part by weight, and a two-thousandth control. part by bulk, of purely earthy matter, The delta of the Mississippi is similar yielding a daily deposite of nearly one in its character, though on an immeasmillion, four hundred thousand tons! urablylarger scale, to that formed around The effect of this immense floating allu- and below the junction of the Alabama vion is seen in the gradual deposites and Tombigbee rivers, and extending and elevation of the lowlands bordering into Mobile bay. Here it is apparent the principal stream, and its numerous that the waters of the bay once extendbayous and collateral branches, the ac- ed high up the stream, and embraced cretions on the levee opposite the centre what are now the low, level banks on of the city (which have extended the either side. The same is true of the bank several hundred feet within a few mouths of the Pearl, Pascagoula, and years), and the constant and rapid ex- other smaller streams, which lie between tension of the land at the mouth. The those larger rivers; and we are thus inlate Judge Martin states that "the old evitably forced to the conclusion, that Balize, a post erected by the French the inner channels which lie within the in 1724, at the mouth of the river, was islands stretching fiom Mobile to Lake two miles above it in 1827." Borgne, inclusive of this, and Lakes Everywhere on the banks of the pass- Pontchartrain and MIaurepas, and the ing stream the land is highest; as the innumerable other smaller lakes and water charged with floating matter over- bayous which intersect the whole delta flows its brim, and becomes compara- of the Mississippi, have been rescued tively stagnant, allowing a large portion from the tidewaters within a recent peof the solid material to subside, while riod. And there is scarcely a doubt the partially-purified water passes on- that this former arm of the gulf once ward through other channels to the gulf. extended up the Yazoo, the Red river, The result of this is to give a higher and some other of the smaller rivers, all arable surface for some distance from of whose banks are intersected by nuthe banks, while that portion of the land merous channels, through which the remote from them subsides into irre- waters flow into the adjoining streams, claimable swamps, and frequently nav- as either has the ascendency from recent igable lakes and lagoons. The natural floods on its upper branches. These elevation of the banks is not yet sufficient interlocking with each other in every to prevent the overflow from floods; and direction, and all at last terminating in this object is secured by artificial levees, the gulf, separate the entire delta into or embankments, on both sides, which a perfect network of islands. The land extend in a continuous line for hundreds seldom rises beyond a few feet above of miles on the main stream and its col- lowwater-mark, and, from the banks, lateral channels. The slow accumula- gradually subsides into the swamps, lation and consequent elevation of the goons, and lakes in the rear. The latsurrounding country from deposites, ter are sometimes deep, but are usually which would otherwise have been going shallow, with the slightest declination forward, is thus arrested; and the pres- from a level as they recede from the ent low swampy surface must forever shore; while the shorter and more dicontinue unreclaimed, till embankments rect channels, through which the water on the lower sides, and the artificial re- flows to the gulf with fearful rapidity in moval of the waters, bring portions of it I times of floods, are generally narrow into a condition for future cultivation. and of immense depth, frequently exCould the hand of civilization and mod- ceeding one hundred feet. The coast! ern improvement have been arrested for is usually a low receding line, so ob- i a few centuries longer, till nature had scurely defined as to leave it questionL:~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 438 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. able, for miles, where the water ends in fact, the whole stratum is evidently and the land begins. rapidly becoming a limestone-rock. 137 The condition of the surface clearly to 140, sand, very fine, of a brown color, indicates that draining is the first and containing a large portion of mica; 140 paramount object in the cultivation of to 145, alternate thin strata of sand and the alluvial land of Louisiana. This clay-the clay extremely hard, firm, and has accordingly been practised to an beautiful, when fiesh not unlike chocextent far beyond anything elsewhere in olate in appearance; 145 to 171, clay, the United States. Large ditches run- or mould, of a variety of colors, interning from the banks of the river and mixed with some sand, likewise a subbayous to the swamps in the rear, inter- stance much resembling fuller's earth. sected by numerous cross excavations This stratum at first was neaily white. of a less depth, effectually drain off the After penetrating it about two feet, it surface-water. became darker and extremely hard and GEOLOGY.-The following is an inter- compact, also very adhesive, and capable esting detail of observations, made du- of being cut in very thin pieces with a ring an experiment of boring for fiesh knife. water to the depth of two hundred and "In this stratum, at 168 feet, passed six feet below the surface, at the mouth a few inches of sand, but below to 171 of Bayou St. John, New Orleans, by feet, the stratum the same again; 171 the superintendent of the work:- to 184, strata same as above; 1S4 to "From the surface to 18 feet, vege- 192, sand, shells, and mould: in this table mould, wood, &c., very impure- stratum we found shells of almost every so much so, that, although in the month variety found in this vicinity; also, what of February, the smell was almost in- appeared to have been a whole crab, but supportable; from 18 to 28 feet, blue broken by the instrument in getting it clay or vegetable mould, but not so im- up; the claws were very perfect, so that pure as the first 18 feet; 28 to 33, sand, the joints might be worked by the finshells; 33 to 40, dark, finle sand, fiee ger; also a bone of about two inches in from shells; 40 to 43, sand, clay, shells, length, and evidently broken, supposed and vegetable matter, but a very large to be a bone of a deer; also pieces of portion of shells; 43 to 66, blue clay, wood, in a high state of preservation, sand, and shells, but mostly clay-the apparently cypress. 192 to 194, sand last 10 feet, clear clay, and very hard, and mould intermixed, two inches of dry, and adhesive, the strata growing sand and stones, apparently in a rapid lighter to pale yellow; 66 to 77, fine, state of formation; 194 to 196, mould beautiful yellow sand, containing a large and sand, very hard, of a greenish color; quantity of mica, also petrifactions and 196 to 199, alternate strata of mould indurated clay-this stratum was very and sand, containing many stones, apstrongly impregnated with sulphur, so parently forming rock; 199 to 201, sand much so as to render the water offensive and clay, in alternate veins, containing to the smell; 77 to 87, pale clay, vege- much water; 201 to 202~, clay of a light table mould, and sand, very compact and pale color; 2024 to 203~, clay and mould bard; 87 to 118, blue clay or mould, in- of a dark color, very hard and l:eutitermixed with some sand; 118 to 119A, ful —the division in the color was very sand, clay, and shells; 1191 to 137, the distinct; 2032 to 206, the same as from samne strata of blue clay or mould, inter- 201 to 2022. mixed with some fine sand, the color " The soil alluded to called clay, is in growing a little paler, intermixed toward all probability a formation of vegetable the bottom with many shells. and mud of the Mississippi. I have " In passing this stratum from 120 to foeund that when dry it becomes very 137 feet, we found a great number of light, and some of it has much the appieces of limestone; in some parts of it pearance of wood or other vegetable we found it difficult to get our tube substance." I down to them, they were so numerous; New Orleans is the principal city of jjown L"-~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~1 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 439 Louisiana, and great commercial em- Formerly North Carolina and Virporium of the southwest, enjoying ad- ginia formed our principal d6p6ts for vantages possessed by few cities in the American cotton; under the influence H world. Indeed, there is probably no of receding prices, these states had to other which can be considered equal to yield to the greater fertility of new land, it, in the several leading points of being and Georgia became the largest cottonthe grand mart of a river so extensive, growing state in the Union. In its turn, with so many navigable branches, flow- however, Georgia has declined before ing through regions of fertility, occu- the productions of Mississippi; and the pied and fast peopling by a race pos- I right bank of the Mississippi river may, sessing all the arts of civilization, and in its turn, supply that production, which all the advantages of our united, fiee, the cultivation of corn and sugar may anid powerful government. Under the supersede, if proved to be the more redirection of modern science and art, the munerating crops. There is, however, rapid current of the Mississippi has, a limit to this. So far as we know, cotbeen rendered eminently subservient to ton can only be grown, to any extent, in the commerce of this city; for, without that portion of the United States known steamboats, the immense productions of as the southwestern states. In other the great valley would still have been countries, the cultivation has not sucretarded, in their way to their only nat- ceeded to the desired extent-a weak ural market, by the dangers of the de- and useless fibre being the result of scending navigation and the difficulties much enterprise and capital. But whatand delays of the return. It is scarcely ever be the amount of cotton hereafier twenty years since the corn, hogs, and raised in Louisiana, Alabama, and Missisother articles, annually sent to New sippi, an immense annual supply of prodOrleans, were taken down in arks and uce must be brought to New Orleans. on rafts, by men who could hope to ar- Civilr DrvIslIONS.-Louisiana is dirive in safety only by incessant watch- vided into parishes, after the old French fulness and frequent labor, among the plan, as follows:shoals and snags of the river, and who Eastern District.-Ascension, Assumphad no resource left them, after reaching tion, Baton Rouge (West and East), Fethe city, than to break up their vessel liciana (WVest and East), Iberville, Jeffel'(if such it might be called), sell it for son, La Fourche, Livingston, Orleans, lumber, and then travel home on foot. Plaquemine, Point Coupee, St. Bernard, COTTON.-The immense cotton trade St. Charles, St. Helena, St. James, St. of the United States, of which a large John Baptist, St. Tammany, Terra portion is carried on at New Orleans, Bonne, Washington. has so important relations with the W17estern District.-Avoyelles, Bienmanufactures, commerce, and condition ville, Bossier, Caddo, Calcasieu, Caldof Europe, and is liable to so many fluc- well, Carroll, Catahoula, Claiborne, tuations, that much of the attention of Concordia, De Sto, Franklin, Jackmerchants is annually turned to this city. son, La Fayette, Madison, Morehouse, The following facts will assist the reader Natchitoches, Ouchita, Rapides, Sabine, in appreciating the present importance St. Landry, St. Martin, St. Mary, Tenof our great emporium of the west, sas, Union, Vermillion. though its prospects are so great as to POPULATION.-In 1785, vhile under fill the mind with astonishment, when the government of Spain, Louisiana conwe look forward to the increase of pop- tained 27,283 inhabitants. In 1810, unulation, and indulge the hope that divine der the government of the United States, Providence will perpetuate our Union, it had 75,556. In 1820, 153,407; in and continue our national prosperity. 1830, 215,575; in 1840, 352,411; and Europe is almost entirely dependent by the census of 1850, 500,762. on the United States for cotton, although SURFACE AND STATE OF THE CuUNEngland and France have endeavored TRY.-Three quarters of the whole state to secure supplies from other sources. is said to be destitute of everything that 440 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF IOUISIANA. might be called a hill. A hilly range not overlooked, when this branch of commences at Opelousas and extends production and manufacture was first toward the Sabine river, running about zealously commenced in the United equally distant between that stream and States. When it had been ascertained Red river. Gradually rising, it as- that much of the soil of Louisiana was sumes at length the aspect of mountains. adapted to the growth of the cane, and Another ridge lies between Red river that it could be raised with great pecuand the Dudgemony. The whole state, niary advantage, the government of the however, with small exceptions, may be United States had the judgment to emregarded as a succession of pine woods 1 ploy the distinguished chemist Professor with a gently rolling surface, prairies, Silliman, of Yale college, to examine allusions, swamps, and hickory and oak the subject in its various aspects; and lands. The prairies, in many places, his report presented a most valuable present the peculiar characteristics of collection of facts, for the guidance of those extensive level tracts properly congress in making regulations for the known by that name in other parts of' encouragement of the business, as well the west and southwest, being unvaried as of the agriculturists and manufaceven by a single elevation, and in sum- turers entering into it. mer overgrown with a uniform coat of The following brief description of grass, richly besprinkled with flowers the manufacturing processes, is copied of various hues. from a series of letters published in the Large quantities of swampy land re- New York Express, in June and July, main unreclaimed, which is of a rich soil, 1847:capable of yielding abundant crops of " In the northern states comparatively sugarcane; but various obstacles still little is known as regards either the culprevent its improvement. Draining is ture or growth of the cane, or the many the first step necessary: but the back- and varied principles of manufacturing wardness of emigrants in choosing the its rich juice into sugar; yet we may plains of Louisiana, caused partly by anticipate that a more perfect knowledge the fear of disease and partly by un- of this branch of industry will soon be settled land-titles, prevents that advance apparent. Texas and all parts south in prosperity which could be desired. of South Carolina are adapted to the The sickliness of the climate is exag- planting of cane, and for several reasons gerated;' for, although the yellow-fever all those places will become sugar-growhas often been fatal in some parts of the ing districts. Cotton-planting, which country as well as in New Orleans, the used to be prosecuted with such vigor, is general impression at a distance doubt- now gradually dying away; the staple less exceeds the reality; and some parts article, sugar, is fast usurping its place; of the state are as healthful as any parts the cottonfield is changed to the sugarof our country. This is particularly cane, and the ginhouse to the sugarI the fact with the pine hills; and that house. The production of sugar has unwholesome miasmata of the lower, gradually increased up to the crop of marshy lands would doubtless be in a 1845-'6; but the crop of 1846-'7 fell great degree destroyed, if a good sys- short of even 1841, being only about tern of drainage were once formed. one hundred and thirty thousand hogsSUGAR-MAKING.-The making of sugar heads of a thousand pounds each, and on a large scale, in this state, is of but about four and a half millions of gallons recent date; yet it already forms a most of molasses. Although this was a very important and lucrative branch of busi- small crop, it sold for more money than ness, and is so rapidly increasing, with the largest crop ever produced in Ametso great improvements in the different ica, probably on account of England methods and processes, that it threatens now admitting slave-grown sugar. The almost to absorb the attention, labor, and short crop of last year may be partly capital of the state. Science was early attributed to the unpropitious season. called in, and practical experience was This year, so far, has the most auspicious IL - DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 441 appearances; the planters have planted to the mill, where it is ground to express upon new principles; the season has the juice. However, the best of mills been very dry, but the extraordinary do not take out all the juice, some sixheight of the Mississippi has amply teen or eighteen per cent. remaining in made up for it, the transpiration water the baggasse or frosh. A second twohaving found its way through the lands. roller mill was introduced at considerAccording to Creole theory, this is a able expense, requiring much power, good omen:'A high river, a great crop.' the drawbacks on which will prevent There are near two thousand plantations its general adoption; however, to obin operation this year; and as I have viate this, and obtain fifteen per cent. of lately visited the majority of them, from the lost juice, a revolving-doctor is about what I can see and learn, the crop of to be adopted, which, though cheap, next gathering (all well) will amount to will answer every purpose, when apthree hundred thousand hogsheads of plied to old or new mills. The caneone thousand pounds each, and nine juice is now carried into large wooden millions of gallons of molasses. To give boxes called clarifiers, where it is heated some idea to those unacquainted with to two hundred degrees Fahrenheit, by the manufacturing of this domestic ar- steampipes, and receives a small dose ticle, I will give some data, which I trust of flake-lime; this regulates acidity, and will prove interesting. cleans the juice to a certain extent. " One gallon of cane-juice generally The juice is now at about nine and a makes one pound of sugar; therefore, half or ten degrees saccharometer; it three hundred millions of gallons of is now run off into open boxes heated cane-juice must be expressed to obtain by steampipes, where it is boiled and this quantity of sugar. To gist some scummed, passing from one box, called idea of this quantity of liquid, provided the grand, to another, called the battery, it was water, and supposing the city of where it is concentrated until its boiling New York in a state of blockade, it point reaches two hundred and eighteen would be sufficient to serve the inhab- degrees Fahrenheit; it is now let off itants for four years' subsistence. into an elevator, so as to be risen up "A large quantity of white and refined into a cistern of considerable altitude sugar will be made direct from the cane previous to its going through the further next grinding, some planters having pro- operation of filtering, &c. cured very expensive machinery and ap- "I would here state the reason of its paratus for that purpose. The insides having to go into an elevator: the mills of most of the sugarhouses on the Mis- are set too low for the juice to run from sissippi are quite familiar to me, some one vessel to another, for the purpose of of which have cost over fifty thousand its going through the various processes, dollars in improvements. A much less according to the new plans of sugarquantity of molasses will be made next manufacture. This elevator is a kind crop, according to the quantity of sugar of cylinder-boiler set on end; when this produced, than is customary. is full, steam is turned into it, which, "It is of little use to enter into a pressing on the surface of the syrup, description of the old mode of sugar- forces it through a pipe attached to the making. Cane, like other things, may cotton leading up to the receiver above. in time become acclimated; consequent- This is far from being an economical ly, experience teaches us how to humor mode of raising fluids, but it is better it. We now pl;tnt cane in rows eight than pumps, as it does not oxydize the and nine feet apart instead of, as origin- syrup. However, a more simple, cheap, ally, four and five feet. It thrives bet- and effective mode, upon the principle ter; receives more firesh air, more sun, of waste steam forming a vacuum in the more nourishment; grows larger and upper cistern, will soon come into genstronger; requires less seed and labor; eral use. The next process through and gives more sugar to the arpent. which this concentrated cane-juice has I "After the cane is cut, it is brought to pass is the bag-filters; these are a 442 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. series of large fine-duck bags, neatly by the barometer, from thirteen to four. folded up, and placed in a cylindrical teen pounds per square inch. The sursmall case of the same material; they face of the liquid thus relieved from are suspended by the neck on metal pressure boils at about one hundred and jrings, and hang down in a square wood- thirty degrees Fahrenheit. Thus a large en box, where the juice drips through, grain and fair sugars are obtained." leaving dirt, sediment, &c., inside the NEW ORLEANS. —his city is situated bags. This is rather an old-fashioned on the left bank of Mississippi river, process. A new plan will shortly take which has here a singular curve, that its place, upon a hydrostatical princi- places the city on its northwest -ide, ple-the pure liquid passing through and facing to the southeast. It is one compressed sponge. hundred and five miles firom its mouth, "The next process through which by the course of the river, but only syrups pass is that of the vacuum-pan, ninety in a direct line. It is about of which there is a great variety. The eleven hundred miles firom St. Louls, original and perhaps the best one is fiurteel hundred from New York, and known as the Howard vacuum-paii- twelve hundred fi-om Washington. New Mr. Howard being the inventor and pat- Orleans is the fourth city, in point of entee. In fact, all others are mere modi- population, and the third in commerce, fications. Another, called De Rosne's, in the United States. Its rapid increase is both simple and good, and very much in population has not been equalled, used; it is this which I will describe, probably, by that of ally other city in although there are several others daily the TJnion. In 1810, it was 17,242; in coming into use, viz.: the Bevan pan, 1820, 27,176; in 1830, 46,310; in 1840, Morgan pan, and Rillieux pan. This 102,193; in 1850, 119,285. last stands rather high-sugar made by The old city proper is in form a paralit having received awards and premniums lelogram. Above the city are the suburbs from the Louisiana Agriculturists' and of St. Mary and A nnunciation, and below Mechanics' association more than once. are the suburbs of Marigny, Franklin, Yet the pans of De Rosne and Howard, and Washington. These are called simple and cheap as they are, have fauxbourgs. Between the city and the produced the best sugar ever made in bayou St. John's are the villages of St. Louisiana. Claude and St. Johnsburg. The old "The De Rosne pan is a cylinder of city proper was laid out by the French, cast-iron, with a wrought-iron steam- and now forms not more than one eighth jacket, for the purpose of admitting of the city limits, and not more than one steam for boiling the charge. It has fourth of its thickly-settled parts. The also copper pipes passing up and down coup d'eil of the city when seen from its inside for the same purpose-that is, the river is extremely beautiful. Many to accelerate evaporation. This pan of the principal streets making a curve, being air-tight and filled with syrup, from the shape,f the city, New Orleans steam is turned on for the purpose of has been called the "Crescent city." boiling. At the same time the steam- The public buildings are the United engine is started to work the airpumps, States branch mint, which is an edifice the vacuum being formed and main- of the Ionic order of architecture, mertained in the following manner: a pipe chants' exchange, commercial exchange, attached to the dome of the pan, of suf- city exchange, city-hall, courthouse, ficient capacity to carry off all the vapor the statehouse, formerly the charity given off by ebullition, leads into a hospital, sixteen churches, some of them large, tight iron vessel, constantly sup- elegant buildings, four orphan asylums, plied with cold water. This is the con- three theatres, and several large and denser. The air-pumps remove all the splendid hotels. vapor cold-water, and draw in fresh to The situation of New Orleans for renew and carry on condensation, and commerce is very commanding. The thus is the vacuum kept up as indicated length of the Mississippi river, and its su~oaPO MaN Jo.aeA an~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~i. _ --........_,_~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ III~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I t — =-: —::........ __== =-;Z-'~ _ny —--- ____ _.,= _ _ _ _ _ ---- - —. -— __ —~ —- __....~=._..-~~~~~__ __~~-==-=~===-S — i=!,!_ L:.__.... 444 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. connected waters, which are navigated complete squares: each square having by steam, is not less than 20,000 miles, a front of three hundred and nineteen and the country which they drain is not feet in length. Few of the streets, exsurpassed in fertility by any on the globe. cepting Canal street, are more than forty Its advantages for communication with feet wide. Many of the seats in the the country in its immediate vicinity are suburbs are surrounded with spacious I also great. By a canal four and a half gardens, splendidly ornamented with miles long, it communicates with Lake orange, lemon, magnolia, and other Pontchartrain, and its connected ports. trees. No city in the United States has This canal cost$1,000,000. Thereis als, so great a variety of inhabitants, with a canal, one and one fourth miles long, such an astonishing contrast of mannels, which communicates with Lake Pont- language, and complexion. The French chartrain through bayou St. John. A population probably still predominates railroad, four and a half miles long, con- over the American, though the latter is nects it with Carrollton. A railroad, continually gaining ground. four and one fourth miles long, connects A mistaken impression prevails in the city with Lake Pontchartrain one some sections of the Union, in relation mile east of bayou St. John. The Mexi- to the moral character,. and healthfilness can gulf railroad extends twenty-four of the climate, of the Crescent city. But miles, to Lake Borgne, and is to be while not friee fiom those evils incident continued to the gulf, at the South pass. to all large and crowded populations, The Mississippi, opposite to the city, is still, in proportion to its size, New Orhalf a mile wide, and from one hundred leans is as free from vice as any otller to one hundred and sixty feet deep, and city of the Union. The yellow fever is continues of this depth to near its en- but little more to be dreaded than those trance into the ocean, where are bars, pulmonary complaints which yearly with from thirteen and a half to sixteen sweep away so many thousands of vicfeet of water. tims at the north. And as to the dampAn embankment, called the Levee, is ness of the land, that is yearly becomraised on the river's border, to protect ing of less account as the cultivation the city. The Levee is from twenty to and second soil more and more dwindle forty feet broad, but in fiont of the sec- away its evil effects. For personal ond municipality is extended to five or safety, men, women, and children, are six hundred feet broad. This forms a as secure from insult or injury there, at splendid promenade, and a very conve- all times, and under all circumstances, nient place for depositing the cotton and as in any city in the world. other produce from the upper country, THE BATTLE OF NEW ORLEANS. —This which can be rolled directly from the city has been rendered memorable as decks of the steamers to the bank of being the scene of the last battle in the the river. war of 1812-'14, with Great Britain, The harbor presents an area of many a brief detail of which will close our acres, covered with flat-boats and keel- notice of New Orleans.-In the month boats inits upper parts. Sloops, schoon- of December, 1814, fifteen thousand ers, and brigs, are arranged along its British troops, under Sir Edward Pacwharves, and present a forest of masts; kenham, were landed for the attack of and steamboats are continually arriving New Orleans. The defence of this place or departing. The amount of domestic was intrusted to Gen. Andrew Jackson, articles exported exceeds $12,000,000 whose force was about six thousand annually, being greater than those of men, chiefly raw militia. Several slight any other city in the Union, excepting skirmishes occurred before the enemy New York. The houses of the city arrived before the city: during this proper have a French and Spanish as- time, Gen. Jackson was employed in pect, are generally stuccoed, and are of making preparation for his defence. His a white or yellow color. fiont was a straight line of about one The city proper contains sixty-six thousand yards, defended by upward of DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 445 three thousand infantry and artillerists. fire of the American artillery and musThe ditch contained five feet of water, ketry, which lay in perfect security beand his fiont, from having been flooded hind their breastworks of cotton bales, by opening the levees, and by frequent which no balls could penetrate. At rains, was rendered slippery and muddy. eight o'clock, the British columns drew Eight distinct batteries were judiciously off in confusion, and retreated behind disposed, mounting in all twelve guns their works. Flushed with success, the of different calibres. On the opposite militia were eager to pursue the British side of the river was a strong battery of troops to their intrenchments, and drive fifteen guns. them immediately firom the island. A At daylight, on the morning of the less prudent and accomplished general 8th of January, the main body of the might have been induced to yield to the British, under their commander-in-chief, indiscreet ardor of his troops; but GenGeneral Packenham, were seen advan- eral Jackson understood too well the cing friom their encampment to storm nature of his own and his enemy's force, the American lines. On the preceding to hazard such an attempt. Defeat must evening they had erected a battery inevitably have attended an assault made within eight hundred yards, which now by raw militia, upon an intrenched camp opened a brisk fire to protect their ad- of British regulars. The defence of vance. They were suffered to approach New Orleans was the object; nothing in silence, and unmolested, until within was to be hazarded which would jeopard three hundred yards of the lines, when the city. The British were suffered to the whole artillery at once opened upon retire behind their works without molesthem a most deadly fire. Forty pieces tation. The result was such as might of cannon, deeply charged with grape, have been expected fiom the different canister, and musket balls, mowed them positions of the two armies. Before down by hundreds, at the same time the eight o'clock, the three generals were batteries on the west bank opened their carried off the field, two in the agonies fire, while the riflemen, in perfect secu- of death, and the third entirely disabled; rity behind their works, as the British leaving upward of two thousand of their advanced, took deliberate aim, and near- men dead, dying, and wounded, on the ly every shot took effect. Through this field of battle. destructive fire, the British left column, On the 9th, General Lambert and Adunder the immediate orders of the com- miral Cochrane, with the surviving offimander-in-chief, rushed on with their cers of the army, held a council of war, fascines and scaling ladders, to the ad- and determined to abandon the expedivance bastion on the American right, tion. To withdraw the troops in the and succeeded in mounting the parapet; face of a victorious enemy, would have here, after a close conflict with the bayo- been difficult and hazardous. To withnet, they succeeded in obtaining posses- draw in safety, every appearance of a sion of the bastion; when the battery, renewal of the assault was kept up, till planted in the rear for its protection, the night of the 18th, when the whole opened its fire, and drove the British army moved off in one body, over a road from the ground. On the American which had been previously constructed left, the British attempted to pass the through a miry slough, in which a numswamp, and gain the rear, but the works ber of the troops perished by sinking had been extended as far into the swamp into the mire. On the 27th, the whole as the ground would permit. Some who land and naval forces which remained of attempted it, sunk in the mire and dis- this disastrous expedition, found themappeared; those behind, seeing the fate selves on board of their ships, with their of their companions, seasonably retreat- ranks thinned, their chiefs and many of ed, and gained the hard ground. The their companions slain, their bodies emaassault continued an hour and a quarter; ciated by hunger, fatigue, and sickness. during the whole time, the British were BATON RoUGE.-This town, the capiexposed to the deliberate and destructive tal of the state, is one hundred and forty 446 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. miles above New Orleans, on the left many, and at the head of navigation in bank of the Mississippi, standing chiefly schooners. A considerable quantity of on a plain elevated about thirty feet cotton is, therefore, annually shipped above the water, except the business here. General Jackson's road, from streets, which are on the low ground Lake Pontchartrain to Nashville, passes along the shore. through Covington. It is one of the faThe public buildings are the court- vorite places of resort from New Orleans house, state-penitentiary, United States in the sickly months. land-office, a college, an academy, three OPELOUSAS, two hundred and seventy banks, and four churches. The popula- miles from New Orleans, is the seat of tion is about four thousand five hundred. justice of the parish to which it belongs, The college was founded in 1823, and had a rapid growth a few years since, has four professors, one thousand vol- and is surrounded by a flourishing reumes in its library, and about fifty stu- gion. It stands on Bayou Bourbee, the dents. Steamboats communicate daily head branch of Vermilion river, and a with New Orleans, Vicksburg, &c., and branch of Teche river rises just in the stagecoaches run to New Orleans and rear of the village. Large heads of St. Francisville. horses and cattle, abounding on the exDONALDSONVILLE, ninety miles above tensive plain in the neighborhood, with New Orleans, stands on the west side the abundant and varied productions of of the river, at the point where the La the earth, give an interesting aspect to Fourche fork leaves the main stream. this place. Before the addition of Texas GALVEZTOWN stands on Bayou Man- to the United States, Opelousas was the chac, and is in the village of Iberville, most southwest village in the country. at a short distance from the place where New Iberia and St. Martinsville are it enters Lake Pontchartrain. It is a two other villages on the banks of the small town, twenty miles north-northeast Teche,'both on the west side; the latfrom Donaldsonville, and twenty-five ter, being at the head of schooner navigasoutheast of Baton Rouge. tion, and surrounded by a fertile counSPRINGFIELD is a post village in the try, promises much increase. southeast part of the parish of St. He- ALEXANDRIA, on Red river, seventy lena, eleven miles southeast of St. He- miles from the Mississippi, is situated lena, and eighty miles northwest of New half a mile below the falls, at the mouth Orleans. cf Bayou Rapide. It is in the centre MADISONVILLE.-This village is also of several extensive and fertile cotton a seaport, and belongs to the parish of districts, and is a seat of justice. The St. Tammany, at the mouth of Chi- village is thickly shaded by groves of functe river. It is about twenty-eight China-trees, in the midst of a beautiful miles north of New Orleans, on the op- plain. It is the scene of an active trade posite side of Lake Pontchartrain, in in cotton. latitude thirty degrees twenty minutes. COUNTRY LIFE IN LOUISIANA.-We The situation is so healthful that the copy from a late writer the following place has been much resorted to by cit- description of the house of a Louisiana izens of New Orleans during the warm planter, which applies to those common and sickly seasons, and it contains sev- on the banks of the Mississippi: — eral houses designed for the accommo- "The house was quadrangular, with dation of visiters. Some years ago the a high stoop, a Dutch roof, immensely government attempted to establish a large, and two stories in height; the navyyard a few miles above, on the riv- basement or lower story being constructer's bank. ed of brick, with a massive colonnade COVINGTON, seven miles above Mad- of the same material on all sides of the isonville, is a considerable village, and building. This basement was raised to stands on a branch of the Chifuncte, a level with the summit of the Levee, called the Bogue Falaya. It is the seat and formed the groundwork or basis of of justice for the parish of St. Tam- the edifice, which was built of wood, DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 447 -~? I _ ------ -- -- __;_'i View on the Mississippi, at Bend No. 100. painted white, with Venetian blinds, as a slight change takes place after each and latticed verandas supported by slen- skin is cast off. Their duration in the der and graceful pillars, running round larva state is six weeks, in which time every side of the dwelling. Along the they feed voraciously; they' then spin whole western front, festooned in mas- their cocoons, and remain in the pupa sive folds, hung a dark-green curtain, state a longer or shorter time, according which was dropped along the whole to the season of the year. The moths length of the balcony in a summer's that remain in the pupa until the followafternoon." ing spring, will be'those whose larvae THE MOTH.-The cotton crops are will destroy the summer's crop. Should liable to extensive injury by a noxious the fall and winter be favorable to the insect, called the cotton moth, of which premature development of the moth, the the following description was recently planters may be grateful, as it will be published:- their greatest safeguard, unless they will "The cotton moth, or noctua xylina, gather and destroy the pupa. appears in the spring, when the cotton- "Mr. Affleck states that the caterpil1 plant is in a fit state to receive the eggs. lars fiequently spin on the old plants." She places these on the leaves of the VIEW ON THE MISSISSIPPI AT BEND plant to the number of from two to six No. 100.-So numerous are the curves hundred; these hatch in fiom two to five or bends of this river, and so difficult is days, according to the weather. The it to distinguish them from each other young larvae are very minute, but grow by any natural features, in consequence rapidly, attaining their full size of one of the uniformity of the surface, that and a half inches in from fourteen to they are marked on thie maps by the twenty days, during which time, like numbers one, two, &c., and are comtheir congeners, they moult every eight monly spoken of, by pilots and traveldaoys. The difference in the color of lers, by that designation. The same tlhe worms is owing to their moulting, may be said of the numerous islands, 44S DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. many of which are hardly to be known especially when close together. Though apart, except by their position. hollow, it possesses great strength; for Tho scene represented in the print is it is jointed, and the texture is compact, at one o' the most consideiable'-bends" and the external part is formed of a on the lowser part of the Mississippi. hard shelly substance containing silex. The land is low and flat, wearing that When green, it is also tough; and the appearance which has before Deetl de- difficulty of penetrating a canebrake at scribed, rising but a few feet above the any season of the year is so great as to river's level at low-water-mark, and corn- be but seldom attempted, except where posed of such loose materials as to be paths have been formed, by either cutin constant danger of removal by some ting away or trampling down the canes of the frequent changes of the currents. when young. Paths once opened, and The curve which the stream takes at firequently travelled, remain passable, this place, where it sweeps away to the except when overflown by the waterright, is so great, that, if the isthmus a state in which many of them often lie were cut through, at its narrowest part, for a considerable part of the time. But the passage would be reduced a great when several paths cross each other, many miles. Preparations have been nothing is more easy than for a passenmade to diminish the distance consider- ger to lose his way; for the tops of the ably, by cutting down the trees near canes often bend over and meet above the left-hand side of the print, to permit his head, so as to shut out a view even of the river to find an unobstructed pas- the sky. Some idea may be formed of the sage across at the time of flood, by peculiar appearance of a canebrake, by which means it may probably wear for the sketch given in the vignette at the itself a new channel. head of this description of the state. TVie tall tree which forms the most THE VALUE OF COTTON, the staple proconspicuous object in the foreground, is duction of this and the adjacent states, is a cypress, of a species which, with the shown in the following extract fiom a cotton-tree, forms the principal growth late English paper, giving a brief history in the native forests on this part of the of the progress of a pound of cotton:shores. It is much used in building, "There was sent off for London, lately, and often covered with the moss, which from Glasgow, a small piece of muslin, is here represented as forming a thick about one pound in weight, the history canopy on its upper branches. of which is as follows: The cotton came This parasitical plant does not grow fiom the United States to London; it north of latitude thirty degrees, but is was thence sent to Manchester and manwell known in the northern states as a ufactured into yarn; thence it was sent very useful article, being purchased in to Paisley, where it was woven; thence great quantities for the stuffing of mat- toAyrshire and there tamboured; thence tresses, cushions, &c., by upholsterers conveyed to Dumbarton and handsewed, and coachmakers. and returned to Paisley; thence to the CANEBRAKES form a prevailing fea- county of Renfrew, bleached, and again ture in many of the marshy regions of returned to Paisley; thence sent to GlasLouisiana, as well as in other of the gow, finished, and sent per coach to southern states. The peculiar nature London. It is calculated that in two of the plant wfiich there occupies the years from the time the muslin was first soi 1, renders a canebrake different from packed in America, its cloth arrived at every other kind of growth. It is well the merchant's warehouse in London, known, in its dry state, throughout most having been conveyed 3,000 miles by parts of our country, being extensively sea, and 920 by land, and contributed used for fishing-pcles, and to some ex- to the s-pport of at least 150 people, tent in manufactures. employed in its carriage and manufacThe cane grows in one long, slender, ture, by which the value has been adupright stalk, from ten to twenty feet in vanced 2,000 per cent. Such is descripheight, giving out but a few thin leaves, tive of a considerable part of the trade." I. _ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~i DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TEXAS. 449 TEXAS, TEXAS was formerly a part of the i hrepublic of Mexico, but became independent in 1836, and was anth nexed to the United States by a joint resolution of Congress, passed in March, 1845, and confirmed by a convention of the people of Texas, in July, 1845. It was finally admitted into the Union as a state, by act of Congress passed in December, 1845. The boundaries of Texas, as' defined by an act of the Texan congress, were as follows: "Beginning at the mouth of the Sabine river, and running west along the gulf of Mexico, three leagues from land, to the mouth of the Rio Grande; thence up the principal stream of that river to its source; thence due north to the foirty-second degree of north latitude; thence along the boundary line, as defined in the treaty between the United States and Spain, to the beginning." An act of Congress, the terms of which were accepted by Texas, in 1850, established her northern and western boundai jes as follows: "The state of Texas will agree that her boundary on the north shall comrnience at the point at which the meridian of one hundired degrees west from Gieenwich is intersected by the parallel of thirty-six degrees and thirty minuites north latitcde, and shall run firom said point due west to the meridian of one hundred and three de-eges west firom Greenwich; thence her boundary shall run due south to the thirty-second degree of north latitude; thence on the said parallel of thirty-two degrees of north latitude to the Rio Brav-o del Nore; and lthence with the channel ol said river to the gulf of Mexico... The United States, in consideration of said establishment of boundaries, will pay to the slate of Texas the sum of ten millions of 29 450 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TEXAS. dollars in a stock bearing five per cent. It is a remarkable feature of Texas. interest, and redeemable at the end of that the bulk of the timber is immefourteen years, the interest payable half- diately on the water-courses. Nearly yearly at the treasury of the United every stream is lined with an abundance States. Immediately after the president of timber, while the intervals between of the United States shall have been fur- the streams are mostly prairie land, with nished with an authentic copy of the act groves, having the appearance of a park. of the general assembly of Texas, ac- The numerous rivers of Texas, runcepting these propositions, he shall cause ning in a parallel course, indicate the the stock to be issued in favor of the state general surface to be one inclined plane, of Texas, as provided for in the fourth with a slope to the southeast. None of article of this agreement." the rivers are of much importance for The gulf of Mexico forms a line of navigation, being in the dry season exseacoast of about four hundred miles in tremely low, and during the floods imextent, on the southeastern boundary of peded with floating timber. Texas. The Rio Grande, or Rio del Norte, The seacoast is very level, but free which forms the western boundary of from marsh or swamp; the soil is a rich Texas, is the largest river, having a alluvion of great depth. This region course of from fifteen to eighteen hunextends into the interior seventy-five dred miles; it is much impeded by rapmiles. Most southern staples can be ids, and can be forded in nearly all produced in this section in the greatest parts of its course except for a distance abundance and of the finest quality. The of about two hundred miles from its only peculiar diseases are bilious dis- mouth. The Sabine is three hundred tempers, and these by no means univer- and fifty miles, the Nueces three hunsal or extremely severe. dred, and the Trinity river four hunAbove the level region commences dred miles in length; all navigable a the "rolling country." The soil is of part of the year. The Rio Brazos is an excellent quality, a rich sandy loam. considered the best navigable stream in The water is pure and healthy, streams Texas; vessels drawing six feet of waclear and rapid, and the atmosphere ter can ascend it to Brazoria; and purer than in the low country. This steamboats of light draught to San Feregion covers the greatest proportion lipe de Austin, ninety miles higher. of Texas above the level district, and The Rio Colorado rises in the high northeast of the Brazos river. No local prairies east of the Puereo river; and causes for disease exist; the facilities for after a course of five hundred miles, falls farming are unrivalled; most kinds of into Matagorda bay. It is obstructed grain and fruit grow luxuriantly; and it by a raft, of a mile in extent, about is unnecessary to exercise any further twelve miles above its mouth; beyond care over cattle and other stock than the which light vessels may ascend two hunherding and marking of the increase dred miles. The city of Austin, the during the whole year. seat of government, is situated on its The northwestern and western por- left bank, near the foot of the mountains. tion is mountainous and broken, to La Baca and Navidad rivers are seconwithin one hundred and fifty or one hun- dary streams, flowing into the La Baca dred and seventy-five miles of the coast. bay. The Guadaloupe is a large stream The valleys are rich, and the mountains of pellucid water; two of its tributaries, abound in a variety of mineral produc- the San Marcos and the Coleto, have tions. Several valuable silver mines, their origin in fountains at the foot of once worked by the Spaniards, but aban- the mountains. The San Antonio endoned on account of the hostile Indians, ters the Guadaloupe some distance above have been recently discovered; and Espiritu Santo bay, and much resembles some fine specimens of virgin gold. the Guadaloupe, though the forest on its This region abounds with fine streams banks is not so dense. It receives the of crystal water. Cibolo, the Medina, the Salado, Medio, DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TEXAS. 451 and Leon creeks, all rapid and clear and garden products. The climate of streams. The San Jacinto is a minor the low lands is too warm for the apple, river, flowing through much good land, but almost every other fruit of temperabounding in pine timber; it falls into ate climes comes to perfection. PeachGalveston bay, which receives also the es, melons, figs, oranges, lemons, pineTrinity river, and Buffalo bayou (a small apples, dates, olives, &c., grow in d;fferstream navigable to the city of Hous- ent localities. Grapes are abundant; ton). Galveston bay is a large body of vanilla, indigo, sarsaparilla, and a variwater, having twelve feet on the bar at ety of dying and medicinal shrubs and the entrance, and good anchorage inside. plants are indigenous, and on all the The Trinity river, its principal contribu- river bottoms is a thick growth of cane. tor, is one of the largest rivers in Texas, Cotton is the principal staple of the and is navigable further up than any state, and generally of a superior qualiother of these rivers. Its banks are ty, mostly cultivated on the Brazos, Collined swith the choicest land and the best orado, Red, and Trinity rivers, and i of timber. Numerous settlements are Caney creek, but advancing in other springing up on its banks. Several beds quarters. Cotton-planting begins in Febof coal, and some saline springs have ruary and picking in June. Indian corn been recently discovered on its margin. and wheat are the principal grains culThe river Nueces is a beautiful and rapid tivated. The sugar-cane has attained stream of considerable magnitude, and great perfection in Texas, also tobacco, flows into Corpus Christi bay, which is common and sweet potatoes, and the accessible to vessels drawing six feet, mulberry-tree. The raising of live stock with deep water inside. Below Espiritu is the occupation of most of the people, Santo bay lies Aransazua bay, with a and many of the prairies are covered good entrance and twelve feet of water with cattle, horses, mules, and sheep; on the bar. It receives several small hogs are plentiful, and large quantities streams and one considerable river, the of pork are raised for market. Vast Aransas. The estuary of the Sabine herds of buffaloes and wild horses are river is a large bay, with sufficient depth seen on the prairies, and deer are eveof water for vessels of an ordinary rywhere abundant. Bears, cougars, pandraught, and a soft mud bar at the en- thers, peccaries, wolves, foxes, and ractrance. There are several thriving towns coons, are among the other wild animals. on the banks of the Sabine, which are To illustrate the manner of capturing frequently visited by steamboats. the wild hcrses, called by the Spaniards The climate of Texas is mild and mustangs, on the prairies of Texas, we agreeable, and, as the country is free insert the following description by one from swamps, is more healthful than the who has often engaged in the exciting corresponding sections of the southern chase, as well as an engraving of the United States. The dry season lasts scene:from April to September, and the wet " The pursuer provides himself with season prevails during the rest of the a strong noosed cord, made of twisted year. The cold weather lasts a short strips of green hide, which, thus pretime in December and January. The pared, is called a lazo, the Spanish word surface of the country is in most parts for a band or bond. He mounts a fleet covered with luxuriant native grasses, horse, and fastens one end of his I zo tc affording excellent pasturage. As al- the animal, coils it in his left hand, leavready mentioned, timber is abundant, ing the extending noose to flourish in and among the varieties are live oak, the air over his head. Selecting his white, black, and post oak, ash, elm, game, he gives it chase; and as soon as hickory, musquite, walnut, sycamore, he approaches the animal he intends to bois d'arc, cypress, &c., and in the seize, he takes the first opportunity to southeast parts pine and cedar of fine whirl the lazo over his head, and immequality abound. diately checks his own charger. The Texas is amply supplied with fruits noose instantly contracts around the neck._ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 452 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TEXAS. of the fugitive mustang, and the creature United States. The population, accordis thrown violently down, sometimes un- ing to the census of 1850, was 187,403, able to move, and generally for the mo- of whom about one fifth were slaves. ment deprived of breath. This violent By the act of Congress admitting Texas method of arrest firequently injures the into the Union, that state had two mempoor animal, and sometimes even kills bers of the house of representatives and him. If he escapes, however, with his has the same under the census of 1850. life, he becomes of great service to his Texas was of course entitled to two master, always remembering with great members in the senate of the United respect the rude instrument of his cap- States at the date of her admission. ture, and ever after yielding immediate- Texas, at the period of her admission, ly whenever he feels the lazo upon his had but thirty-six organized counties; neck. she now (1S51) numbers ninety. In "Being thus secured, the lazoed horse many of these counties the increase of is blindfolded; terrible lever, jaw-break- population, principally by emigration, ing bits are put into his mouth, and he has, it is estimated, since her admission, is mounted by a rider armed with most been equal to fifty per cent. barbarous spurs. If the animal runs, he The principal towns in Texas are Galis spurred on to the top of his speed, un- veston, the principal seaport, Houston, til he tumbles down with exhaustion. San Augustin, San Felipe de Austin, Then he is turned about and spurred Nacogdoches, Austin, the present seat back again; and if he is found able to of government, Washington, for a while run back to the point whence he started, the temporary capital, San Antonio de he is credited with having bottom enough Bexar, and a few others. to make a good horse; otherwise, he is In the eighteenth century Texas was turned off as of little or no value. This nearly unknown, having only been ocprocess of breaking mustangs to the bri- casionally traversed by the Spaniards, inll dle is a brutal one, and the poor ani- their way from New Orleans to Mexico. mals often carry the evidence of it as About 1800, there were only two or long a's they live. After service during three small military establishments, near the day, they are hoppled by fastening which a few Spaniards had settled. In their fore-legs together with a cord, and 1807, Pike made it known that this turned out to feed. To fasten them to country was distinguished by fertility one spot in the midst of a prairie, where of soil. From that time many citizens neither tree, nor shrub, nor rock, is to be of the United States wished to form found, is quite a problem. But that is settlements in Texas, but the policy of accomplished by putting on a halter, ty- the Spanish court was not favorable to ing a knot at the end, digging a hole their designs. When Mexico obtained about a foot deep in the earth, thrusting her independence, the government of in the knot, and pressing the earth down the republic adopted a liberal system of arozO.r it As the horse generally pulls colonization, inviting (in 1824) natives nearly ir a horizontal direction, he is and foreigners to settle within the terriunable to draw it out. tories of the republic, under very advan"When a number are caught, they tageous conditions. The first settlement, are generally driven to market, where was made by Colonel Austin, of Misthey are purchased for three or four dol- souri, in his grant on the Rio Brazos, lars, branded, hoppled, then turned out and called San Felipe de Austin. About and abandoned to themselves, until this time the stream of emiigration from needed. At some future time they will the United States turned toward Texas. doubtless become a valuable article of In 1833, the people of Texas formed export.". for themselves a separate constitution, The present population of Texas is and insisted on a separation of their estimated to amount to over two hun- country fiom the state of Coahuila, to dred thousand, nearly all of whom are which it was united by a decree of the Americans-emigrants from the other Mexican government. This being reL —...... — -v~~~~~~~~~~~~ —-C Wild Norses on the Prairie. -.~,,, —-~f~~% -__ —, —' -.. — ~ _ ~~~~~~~~~~~~:-~ —.-.._._~_~_._.~.-. ~~ —~ —---- I-~~~~ —— ~~-, —-~~~:-~-~~: —--—' ~-~ —-~ r -~-.~ Ca_~tchn idHosso hePare 454 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TEXAS. fused, and a central government estab- through the crooked channel studded on lished in Mexicc, the Texans took up both sides with shoals and breakers, the arms in 1835, iti defence of their rights gloomy pelicans saluting you on every and liberties, and the republican princi- side, the approach is both difficult and ples of the federal constitution of Mex- dangerous. The low, level, and sandy, ico of 1824. The few Mexican soldiers but grass-covered island of Galveston, stationed at Bexar were compelled to on which the city is situated, is about leave the country in December, 1835, thirty miles long, and has on it but three after sustaining considerable loss in a Ismall groups of native trees-though of battle with the Texans. The president fruit-trees there are plenty in the city, of the Mexican republic, Santa Anna, planted by the inhabitants. It is tolerahowever, marched into Texas at the bly fertile, and, owing principally to the head of a small army, and succeeded in industry of the Germanl emigrants that getting possession of Bexar, the garri- have settled there, gardens of all kinds son of which he put to the sword; but abound. It is healthy for all but those in 1835 he was defeated on the banks who expose themselves to the hot midof the liver San Jacinto, with great day summer sun, and bring on attacks of slaughter, by a small body of Texans the fever. It is considered more healthy (Americans from the UInited States), at any season than New Orleans. Galunder General Houston. Santa Anna veston bay is about sixty miles long and was taken prisoner, but released on cer- thirty-five wide, and in its deepest parts tain conditions, among others, that the there is about twelve feet of water; on Mexican troops were to evacuate Texas, its greatest, unavoidable shoals, there is passing beyond the Rio Grande. No about three feet. There are various effective attempt was afterward made islands in different parts of it; the larby the Mexicans to conquer Texas, and gest is "' Pelican," opposite the city of it became an independent republic, be- Galveston. This is, from one extremity ing soon acknowledged as such by the to the other, about four miles long. It United States, France, Great Britain, is destitute of timber, as are all the isand some other nations. lands on the coast; nevertheless, it is, GALVESTON, two hundred and fifty-five during the spring season a great resort. miles from Austin, and three hundred Some visit it for the purpose of making and fifty west by north of the Southwest pic-nics or chowders (for the last it is pass of Mississippi river, is situated on famous), others go for the sail, but most rising ground, compactly built, on the go for the purpose of gathering the east part of Galveston island, with many myriads of eggs deposited by gulls and good houses and several conspicuous other aquatic birds. churches and other public buildings. In Galveston bay about eighteen miles Galveston makes a favoralle appearance from the city is situated Red-fish bar. from the water, and is rapidly extending It is created by the influx of the Trinity its population and business The settle- and other rivers and extends entirely ment was begun in 1837, and has some acroes the bay. It consists of a number large stores, several cotton presses, a of small islands through there are seveuniversity, two high schools, and a pop- ral navigable passes. Of these, the most ulation of about 7,000. The streets esteemed at present is called the " East," are wide and straight. The harbor is but there is a better one still more fine, and the bar has twelve feet of wa- easterly, not much used at present, but ter. A regular communication is kept which is superior to any other, having up with New Orleans by steam-packets, deeper water, and being more direct. a daily line of boats runs to Houston, It is called " Possum pass," partly beand other boats go to the Brazos, Trin- cause it is a feasting ground for that anity, and Sabine rivers. imal which, swimming from one island At Galveston, in the month of Octo- to another of the chain, repairs there ber, the air has a temperature like mid- for the purpose of devourino the eggs September. As you enter the harbor laid in the vicinity, and partly because -— —~- ------- LL-2: —.- —-; —- —— ''-r-rlls====f. - — II. —-— ,--=-=T- ~-;; —;==;'---;=====- --— —= —= - — _ -—. —--— =z=r=-_ _ -- ~ ~ — -; — —-—'? — -----— i —----- --L - r _i _=_=__L1=____T__ --— -C== —; ------— _I-=: —--- — —--' —-=-T —- —— L_ —-__, —----- — —=- — =; —-;zr=_E-L —;=;;L —---— —_ -_L 1;... —-- — —— L —~ ____ _ _____ __l_=_ZIL____L —;_ —-==- — ~ _ _ —= —-=--:. —-— I=--i_ —-;IZ_ — --., —_s-,__r — —;; —--------- ; = --- -— C? —-- Ir- _-_3-;==s —_- ——;;;-_-=_;--_ — — —._ i --— —--— — __rs====-;__=_zr=_-rr — - ------ ------— -1_ -— L —-LL _- __-.:;- h f-="- - ——;- —---- --— — L-L; —-L —---— C — —S- =;=_ —.. -5==---=_-=-51_-== jT====I —=; —S= —— =I_,,===--_;c —5- _15=-2===I-C —== —--== —-;;-T- r- - ~ -~ — Z; —--r--- — 5-5-_-=-- — s —---- _- —— 1- 5-;_~=tI i rl IWRli bal Iailii II II 1111 liiliiL? LZ,: %-f-: i- —,~ s —--— ,\\\\\\-,,`i4,-,.;-;_ View of Galveston. L I 456 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF, TEXAS. it is hidden from sight until approached feathers for various markets. A swan very near. Here there are spots, of skin will at any time bring a dollar. The acres in extent, covered with eggs of all appearance of a flock of these stately flavors, colors, and sizes-and in every water-fowls is that of a floating island of state of incubation, small boats make a half a mile square moving gracefully trade in collecting them for market, and along over the water, now swiftly, now as the robbed birds, with the great- almost stationary, but pouring forth a est perseverance, commence laying anew continual boisterous bird-language. In after each depredation, the egg-hunters spite of their own din, however, they reap an unfailing harvest while the sea.- catch the slightest hostile sound. Should sonr lasts. When the squals are hatched the sportsman crack a twig, move a bush, they make one of the most delicious or crush a shell beneath his foot, the items in the boatman's bill of fare. Sit- noisy conclave stops instantly, and, en ting round their savory supper, these masse, both their propellers and their care-fiee rovers quaff their drams of throats. For an instant all is silent and whiskey, smoke their pipes, sing songs, motionless-bang! then go the fowlingand tell stories of' wild life, beneath the pieces, and perhaps one thousand of clear sky, until tired, when, with their these birds, so graceful in the water but blanket; around them, they seek a soft so awkward in flight, will stretch their sp-t upon the sand. At the dawn, the wings, knocking each other down in their shrill cry of the eagle in pursuit of his confusion, and, amid loud cries and great prey awakes the egg-hunters to business. splashing of water, take themselves off Having laid in their stock of eggs, they as soon as possible, probably leaving commence the second but no less pleas- thirty or forty of their cotmrades to be ant part of their trade-this is fishing, for gathered up by the sportsmen. which this place is famous. HouSTON, on Buffalo bayou, at the The red-fish is the desired animal to head of tide-water, is eighty-five miles the fishermen; mullet, buffalo, cat-fish friom Galveston, and one hundred and (a species of salmon), and countless eighty-eight fiom Austin. The situanumbers of less important classes of fish tion of this town is not only favorable abound. The fisher, with a small spear, and convenient, but, when seen fiom commences searching in the various wa- certain points, quite picturesque. The ter-holes in the sand for crabs for bait; summit of the gentle eminence on then, fastening a crab to his hook, he which it is built is crowned by several casts it in, and in an instant some red- churches, and the slope is thickly covfish is hauled out flouncing upon the ered with houses, many of which are sand. Sometimes it is a closely-con- small and simple in their construction, tested question whether the fish shall as in most new, interior towns of Texquit his element or the fisherman take a as. The stream which flows at the base bath. Red-fish often weigh twenty-five of the hill, meanders peacefully along, pounds They are a very vigorous fish, flowing under a handsome bridge of a and of delicious flavor, either fiesh or single arch, and beneath the shade of dried and salted, which is a favorite some of the trees of the forest whicn 1i way f curing them. About eight miles have been spared in clearing the land. abu, Red-fish bar, there is a group of The distant scenes are varied by ridges islands famous for the great inducements of high ground, which extend far away, they hold out to the sportsman-they with winding valleys between them. An are called the " Veintiuno," or Twenty- extensive prairie adjoins it, and it is a one isles. In the winter season their place of much trade in cotton. Steamlittle harbors are filled with small craft boats runto Galveston, and stage-coaches and the ceaft with sportsmen, who make to Washington. It contains four churcha little fortune during that season by the es, a courthouse, a number of large vast numbers of geese, brant, duck, and manufactories, and 6,000 inhabitants. swan, they kill here-selling their car- AUSTIN, the capital of Texas, is situcasses at Galveston, and curing their ated on the east side of Colorado river, uno~snoH jo'~a!A.,~~ -- J ~ -, 458 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TEXAS. two hundred miles from the gulf ofl The Wesleyan college has four inMexico, on a plain elevated about thirty structors and a president, with departfeet. The capitol, on the summit, is ments for the two sexes. conspicuous from its position, and over- WASHINGTON.-Th is town is situated looks an extensive region. At a short at the head of ordinary navigation on distance from it is the governor's house. the Brazos, one hundred and thirtyThe population amounts to about 4,000. three miles ~fom Austin, and contains The governor of Texas is chosen by about 3,000 irhabitants, with a courtthe people for two years, but is eligible house, four churches, and a number of only two years in six. He must be large manufactories. thirty-two years old, and have been a NACOGDOCHES, is sixty miles west of resident of the state three years previous. the Sabine and two hundred and fifty The lieutenant-governor is eligible un- distant from Austin, near the head of der the same restrictions. There is a Angelina river. It was formerly a milisupreme court, and such district and in- tary post, but is now a town of 2,000 ferior courts as the legislature shall ap- inhabitants, and contains a university of point. The legislature appoints the the same name, with two professors. judges of the supreme court for six SAN ANTONIO DE BExaR.-This place, years, with the advice and consent of celebrated for the destruction of a band the senate. The senators are chosen of Texan soldiers in the Alamo or citaby the people for two years, half being del, in the Mexican war, is ninety miles chosen each year. They must be thirty- south by west of Austin, on the upper two years old, and residents for the last part of San Antonio river, and formerly three years. The representatives are contained 8,000 inhabitants, but has now chosen for two years, by the people, and only about 2,000. must be twenty-one years old, citizens CORPUS CHRISTI, two hundred and of the United States, and residents of fifty south of Austin, stands at the head the state of Texas for one year, and of of a bay, and contains a population of the county for the last six months. The about 800, being connected with other legislature meets once in two years. towns on the coasts by steamboats. MATAGORDA, one hundred and ninety- BASTROP.-This town stands on the eight miles southeast from Austin, and east side of Colorado river, where it is thirty-five from the Caballo pass, stands crossed by the road to San Antonio, in on the Colorado, and has a customhouse, the midst of a rich prairie, and has two churches, an academy, and 700 in- about 700 inhabitants. habitants. Steamboats run to New Or- BRAZORIA is on the right bank of the leans and Galveston. Brazos river, about thirty miles above SAN FELIPE DE AUSTIN, on the west the sea. It is a place of considerable bank of the Brazos, is one hundred and trade, and has about 900 inhabitants. twenty miles from Austin, and contains From April to Septeml)er the ther2,000 inhabitants. It was burnt by the mometer, in difl'erent parts of the state, Texan army, in the war, but has been has been found at a general average to, rebuilt. range from sixty-three to one hundrled S.N AUGUSTIN, twenty-seven miles degrees. These great; heats, however, from the Sabine, and three hundred and are tempered by continu(;l alnd strong sixty east-northeast from Austin, is built breezes, which commence soon after on the Ayish bayou, and contains about sunrise and continue till three or four 2,500 inhabitants. It is one of the best- o'clock in the afternoonll, and the nights built and best-situated towns in Texas, are cool throughout the year. in a healthy region of rolling country. Among the natural curiosities of Texas The University of San Augustin is in are the "Cross Timbers," consistiing of this place. It was incorporated in 1837, two lines of continuous forest, varying ill and has two professors in the male de- width irom five to fifty miles, extenlding in partment, and three instructors in the almost a direct line from the sources of female. the Trinity northward to the Arkansas. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 459 _.___:~:~ -W l ITms state is bounded north by ~:~%~~7 Missouri, east by the Mississippi -- — __ river, all nd e sonth b y Louisiana. It is naturally divided into three districts. The east part is generally level; and, lying along the 4___ __ ^ Mississippi, White, St. Francis, and Arkansas rivers, is subject to inundations in the spring. Some portions of this section are prairie!?land, but most of it is covered with l.1.~ wforests. When cleared, the soil is generally good. The second oi middle district is watered by some of the upper tributaries of the White and Otachitta rivers, and the main part of the Arkansas and Red rivers. lhlie surface is broken, but has large prairies. The third district, in the north and nlorthwest, is mountainous, but with extensive prairies intermingled. This state is remarkably well supplied with navigable streams. The St. Francis comes in across the northern boundary, and after flowingg one hundred and twenty miles, falls into the Mississippi about sixty miles above the mouth of White river. White river, which is a stream of much superior size, has its rise in two branches nortll of this state, and, after a course of one hundred and twenty miles, enters the Mississippi fifteen miles above the mouth of the Arkansas. ['he Arkansas is navigable far into the interior, though considerably impeded by falls. The Ouachitta is formed by the confluence of numerous branches, rising in the Masserne mountains, between the Red river and Arkansas. It is navivable, when the water is high, for a distance of two hundred miles, including the windings of the stream, in large boats. Red river has but a small part of its course in this state, crossing the northwest corner. twenty miles, falls iiito the Mississippi atout sixty miles above the mouth oI ~Vhie 1~ver. Whit rier, hichis astram o muc suprio siz, ha itsri_ 460 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. Several very extensive salt-prairies in whole body of which acknowledges their the interior affect the water of mndly of influence. Through what varieties of the streams, which has a brackish taste. climate have they passed? On what Salt-springs are numerous. scenes of lonely and sublime magnifiThe scenery along the Mississippi, in cence have they gazed? In short, when this part of its course, is well described the traveller has asked and answered in the following extract firom the jour- these questions and a thousand others, it nal of a late English traveller:- will be time enough to consider how far "The American forests are generally the scenery of the Mississippi would be remarkable for the entire absence of un- improved by the presence of rocks and derwood, so that they are easily pene- mountains. He may then be led to trable by a foot-traveller, and generally doubt whether any great effect can be even by a mounted one. But in the pro(luced by a combination of objects neighborhood of the Mississippi there of discordant character, however grand is, almost uniformly, a thick under- in themselves. The imagination is, pergrowth of cane, varying in height from haps, susceptible but of a single powerfour or five to about twenty feet, accord- ful impression at a time. Sublimity is ing to the richness of the soil. Through uniformly connected with unity of obthis thicket of cane I should think it ject. Beauty may be produced by the quite impossible to penetrate; yet, I happy adaptation of a multitude of harhave been assured, the Indians do so for monious details; but the highest subleagues together, though by what means limity of effect can proceed but from one they contrive to guide their course, glorious and paramount object, which where vision is manifestly impossible, impresses its own character on everyit is not easy to understand. thing around. "It has been the fashion with travel- "The prevailing character of the lers to talk of the scenery of the Missis- Mississippi is that of solemn gloom. I sippi as wanting grandeur and beauty. have trodden the passes of Alp and ApMost certainly it has neither. But there ennine, yet never felt how awful a thing is no scenery oil earth more striking. is nature, till I was borne on its waters The dreary and pestilential solitudes, through regions desolate and uninhabuntrodden save by the foot of the In- itable. Day after day, and night after dian; the absence-of all living objects, night, we continued driving right downsave the huge alligators which float past, ward to the south; our vessel, like some apparently asleep, on the drift-wood; huge demon of the wilderness, bearing and an occasional vulture, attracted by fire in her bosom, and canopying the its impure prey on the surface of the eternal forest with the smoke of her noswaters; the trees, with a long and hid- trils.... I passed my time in a sort of eous drapery of pendent moss, fluttering dreamy contemplation. At night I asin the wind; and the giant river, rolling cended to the highest deck, and lay for onward the vast volume of its dark and hours gazing listlessly on the sky, the turbid waters through the wilderness- forest, and the waters, amid silence only form the features of one of the most dis- broken by the clanging of the engine. mal and impressive landscapes on which All this was very pleasant; yet, till I the eye of man ever rested..... No reached New Orleans, I could scarcely other river in the world drains so large have smiled at the best joke in the a portion of the earth's surface. It is worldC; and as for raising a laugh-it the traveller of five thousand miles, more would have been quite as easy to square than two thirds of the diameter of the the circle. globe. The imagination asks, whence "The bends or flexures of the Missiscome its waters, and whither tend they? sippi are regular in a degree unknown They come from the distant regions of in any other river. The action of runa vast continent, where the foot of civil- ning water, in a vast alluvial plain like ized man has never yet been planted. that of the basin of the Mississippi, withThey flow into an ocean yet vaster, the out obstruction from rock or mountain, DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 461 may be calculated with the utmost pre- few years ago, the Mississippi was surcision. Whenever the course of a river veyed by order of the government, and diverges in any degree from a right line, its islands, from the confluence of the it is evident that the current can no long- Missouri to the sea, were numbered. I er act with equal force on both its banks. remember asking the pilot the name of On one side the impulse is diminished, a very beautiful island, and the answer I on the other increased. The tendency was,'Five-hundred-and-seventy-three,' in these sinuosities, therefore, is mani- the number assigned to it in the hydrofestly to increase, and the stream which graphical survey, and the only name by hollows out a portion of one bank, being which it was known. rejected to the other, the process of "A traveller on the Mississippi has curvature is still continued, till its chan- little to record in the way of incident. nel presents an almost unvarying suc- For a week we continued our course, cession of salient and retiring angles. stopping only to take in wood, and on "In the Mississippi the flexures are occasion to take in cargo. so extremely great, that it often happens "One of the most striking circumthat the isthmus which divides different stances connected with this river-voyage portions of the river gives way. A few was the rapid change of climate. Barely months before my visit to the south, a ten days had elapsed since I. was travremarkable case of this kind had hap- ersing mountains almost impassable fiom pened, by which forty miles of naviga- snow. Even the level country was partion had been saved. The opening thus tially covered with it, and the approach formed was called the new cut. Even of spring had not been heralded by any the annual changes which take place in symptom of vegetation. Yet in little the bed of the Mississippi are very re- more than a week I found myself in the markable. Islands spring up and dis- region of the sugarcanes. appear; shoals suddenly present them- "The progress of this transition was selves where pilots have been accus- remarkable. During the first two days tomed to deep water; in many places, of the voyage, nothing like a blossom whole acres are swept away firom one or a green leaf was to be seen. On the bank and added to the other; and the third, slight signs of vegetation were pilot assured me that in every voyage visible on a few of the hardier trees. he could perceive fresh changes. These gradually became more general "Many circumstances contribute to as we approached the Mississippi; but render these changes more rapid in then, though our course lay almost due the Mississippi than in any other river. south, little change was apparent for a Among these, perhaps the greatest is day or two. But after passing Memthe vast volume of its waters, acting on phis, in latitude thirty-five degrees, all alluvial matter, peculiarly penetrable. nature became alive. The trees which The river, when in flood, spreads over grew on any little eminence, or which the neighboring country, in which it did not spring immediately friom the has formed channels called bayous. The swamp, were covered with foliage; and banks thus become so saturated with at our wooding-times, when I rambled water, that they can oppose little resist- through the woods, there were a thouance to the action of the current, which sand shrubs already bursting into flower. frequently sweeps off large portions of On reaching the lower regions of the the forest. Mississippi, all was brightness and ver"The immense quantity of drift-wood dure. Summer had already begun, and is another cause of change. Floating the heat was even disagreeably intense. logs encounter some obstacle in the "Shortly after entering Louisiana, river, and become stationary. The mass the whole wildness of the Mississippi gradually accumulates; the water, sat- disappears. The banks are all cultiurated with mud, deposites a sediment; vated, and nothing was to be seen but and thus an island is formed, which soon plantations of sugar, cotton, and rice, becomes covered with vegetation. A with the houses of their owners, and she 1 t.{lt~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~.* I 462 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. l___ J1 _.' ~= —EL A N-al F Rocky Bluffs on the Mississippi. little adjoining hamlets inhabited by the The picturesque effect of these bluffs slaves. Here and there were orchards is mucn increased by their singularity, of orange-trees, but these occurred too and the extreme rarity of eminences of seldom to have much influence on the all kinds along the lower parts of the rivlandscape." er's course. The narrow belt of lowROCKY BLUFFS.-In some parts the land which intervenes between the water banks of the Mississippi present an as- and the bases of the rocks, with the scatpect widely different from that of the tering trees and groves by which it is prevailing scenery in this state. At partly shaded, and the masses of forestthat point especially which is represent- foliage which form the background, comed in the above engraving, the eye is bine to render this wild scene one of the struck by bold outlines rising far above most striking and pleasing to the eye the ordinary level of the alluvion. The of the traveller. three rocky bluffs here seen standing In the water is seen one of the flatside by side, at equal distances and of bottomedboatsbeforementioned. They nearly equal size, are terminated in small are constructed with skill, and well serve horizontal terraces, which seem to in- the purpose for which they are designed, dirate that they are the remains of an although formed of boards fastened by ancient high plain, elsewhere torn away a few timbers. Being filled with large or sunk by some tremendous convulsion quantities of various articles, they float of nature. These eminences stand like down to New Orleans with the current, castles, faIr.icated by gigantic hands, or and seldom suffer injury on the way. cut out of the living rock, with sides There is an Indian tradition that the entarkably perpendicular, smooth, and Kansas tribe were utterly destroyel at uniform; and the crevices which here this place by their enemies. Their toand there mark the surface, occur at tem, or pretended guardian spirit, was such points and of such forms as to bear a white fawn. An animal of this dea considerable resemblance to windows, scription, it was said, afterward haunted loopholes, and embrasures. the spot at night. -~~~~ —— ~-L — DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 463 DESCRIPTION OF A PRAIRIE, BY AL- break, to relieve the monotony-nothBERT PIKE.-The world of prairie which ing, save here and there a deep narrow lies at a distance of more than three track, worn into the hard plain by the hundred miles west of the inhabited por- constant hoof of the buffalo. Imagine, tions of the United States, and south of then, countless herds of buffalo, showing the river Arkansas and its branches, has their unwieldly, lark shapes, in every been rarely, and parts of it never, trod- direction as far as the eye can reach, and den by the foot, or beheld by the eye, approaching at times to within forty of an Anglo-American. Rivers rise steps of you; or a herd of wild horses there, in the broad level waste, of which, feeding in the distance, or hurrying away mighty though they become in their from the hateful smell of man, with their course, the source is unexplored. Des- manes floating, and a trampling like erts are there, too barren of grass to thunder. Imagine here and there a solsupport even the hardy buffalo, and in itary antelope, or perhaps a whole herd, which water, except in here and there fleeting off in the distance, like the scata hole, is never found. Ranged over terinrg of white clouds. Imagine bands by the Camanches, the Pawnees, and of white, snow-like wolves, prowling Caiwas, and other equally wandering, about, accompanied by the little gray savage, and hostile tribes, its very name collotes or prairie-wolves, who are as is a mystery and a terror. The Paw- rapacious and as noisy as their bigger nees have their villages entirely north brethren. Imagine, also, here and there of this part of the country; and the war a lonely tiger-cat, lying crouched in parties, always on foot, are seldom to some little hollow, or bounding off in be met with to the south of the Cana- triumphl, bearing some luckless little dian, except close in upon the edges of prairie-dog, which it has caught stragthe white and civilized Indian settle- gling about at a distance from his hole. ments. Extending on the south to the If to this you add a band of Camanches, Rio del Norte, on the north to a distance mounted on noble swift horses, with unknown, eastwardly to within three or their long lances, their quiver at the four hundred miles of the edge of Ar- back, their bow, perhaps their gun, and kansas territory, and westwardly to the their shield ornamented gaudily with Rocky mountains, is the range of the feathers and red cloth, and round as NorCamanches. Abundantly supplied with val's, or as the full moon; and imagine good horses from the immense herds of them hovering about in different places, the prairie, they range, at different times chasing the buffalo or attacking an enof the year, over the whole of this vast emy-you have an image of the prairie, country. Their war and hunting par- such as no book ever described adeties follow the buffalo continually. In quately to me. the winter they may be found in the I have seen the prairie under all its south, encamped along the Rio delNorte, diversities, and in all its appearances, and under the mountains; and in the from those which I have described, to summer on the Canadian, and to the the uneven, bushy prairies which lie north of it, and on the Pecos. Some- south of Red rivei, and to the illimittimes they haunt the Canadian in the able Stake prairie, which lies from alwinter, but not so commonly as in the most under the shadow of the mountains summer. It is into this great Ameri- to the heads of the Brazos and of Red can desert that I wish to conduct my river, and in which neither buffaloes nor readers. horses are to be found. I have seen Imagine yourself standing in a plain the prairie, and lived in it, in summer to which your eye can see no bounds. and in winter. I have seen it with the Not a tree, nor a bush, not a shrub, nor sun rising calmly from its breast, like a tall weed, lifts its head above the bar- a sudden fire kindled in the dim distance, ren grandeur of the desert; not a stone and with the sunset flushing in the sky is to be seen upon its hard-beaten sur- with quiet and sublime beauty. There face; no undulations, no abruptness, no is less of the gorgeous and grand char 464 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. acter, however, belonging to it, than ing upon their summits. Nothing ever that which accompanies the rise and set equalled the intense feeling of delight of the sun upon the ocean, or upon the with which I at first saw the eternal mountains; but there are beauty and mountains marking the western edge of sublimity enough to attract the atten.- the desert. tion and interest the mind. The constitution of the state of ArI have also seen the mirage, painting kansas was adopted in 1836, in which lakes, and fires, and groves, on the grassy year it was admitted into the Union. ridges near the bounds of Missouri, in The governor is chosen for four years, the still autumn afternoon, and cheating and prohibited to hold office more than the traveller by its splendid deceptions. eight years in twelve. Senators are I have seen the prairie, and stood long chosen for four years by the people, and and weary guard in it, by moonlight and representatives for two years. Elecstarlight, and in storm. It strikes me tions are made viva voce. The senate as the most magnificent, stern, and ter- can never consist of fewer than sevenribly grand scene on earth. A storm in teen members, or more than thirty-three; the prairie is much like a storm at sea, the house of representatives from fiftyexcept in one respect-and in that it four to one hundred. The legislature seems to me to be superior-the still- meets once in two years. Judges of ness of the desert and illimitable plain, the supreme court are appointed by the while the snow is raging over its sur- legislature for eight years, those of the face, is always more fearful to me than circuit court for four years. The judges,he wild roll of the waves; and it seems of the county courts are chosen by jusunnatural-this dead quiet, while the tices of the peace. upper elements are so fiercely disturbed! Every white male citizen of the it seems as if there ought to be the roll United States is entitled to vote after a and roar of the waves. The sea, the residence of two years. woods, the mountains, all suffer in com- There are ten academies and one hunparison with the prairie-that is, on dred and fifty common schools in the the whole; in particular circumstances, state. either of them is superior. We may LITTLE ROCK.-This town is the capspeak of the incessant motion and tu- ital of Arkansas, and is situated on the mult of the waves of the ocean; the un- right bank of the Arkansas river, on an bounded greenness and dimness, and the elevated and rocky bluff, one hundred lonely music, of the forests; and the and fifty feet above its level. The dishigh magnificence, the precipitous gran- tance from New Orleans by the course deur, and the summer snow of the glit- of the stream is nine hundred and five tering cones of the mountains: but still miles. This is the first place, west of the prairie has a stronger hold upon the Mississippi, where rocks present the soul, and a more powerful, if not so themselves above the surface of the imvivid an impression upon the feelings. mense alluvion which lies on its westIts sublimity arises from its unbounded ern border. extent-its barren monotony and desola- The town contains the statehouse, the tion-its still, unmoved, calm, stern, and penitentiary, an arsenal of the United most impressive grandeur-its strange States, a land-office, two banks, five power of deception-its want of echo- churches, a theatre, an academy, and and, in fine, its power of throwing a man over four thousand inhabitants. back upon himself, and giving him a Steamboats go to New Orleans, and feeling of lone helplessness, strangely up the river to Fort Gibson. Stagemingled at the same time with a feeling coaches leave the town three times a of liberty and freedom from restraint. week for Washington; and also for Van It is particularly sublime as you draw Buren, St. Louis via lBatesville, and nigh to the Rocky mountains, and see Frederickstown (Missouri); and twice them shoot up in the west, with their a week for Rock Koe, whence steamlofty tops looking like white clouds rest- boats go to New Orleans. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 4651 ARKANSAS POST is on the left bank of following translations of speeches made Arkansas river, six hundred and eighty- many years ago by two chiefs, one of five miles above New Orleans. It stands them belonging to the Arkansas nation, on an elevated piece of ground, and has too plainly indicate the destructive efa courthouse with about two hundred fects of demoralizing intercourse on the inhabitants. Steamboats Tun hence to one hand, and of the wars by which Little Rock and New Orleans.. they were reduced to subjection on the HERIENA.-This is a small town on other. the bank of the Mississippi, and con ains The following is a speech of an Inabout five hundred inhabitants. It has dian, from the Arkansas tribe, directed a land-office and a courthouse. Steam- to Bossu, a Frenchman. In the year boats touch fiom New Orleans and the 1770, Bossu, of whom we have a good principal cities of the Mississippi and account of his travels through North its branches. America, visited the Arkansas tribe, HOT SPRINGS is six miles north of among whom he had formerlylived many Onachitta river, and sixty miles distant years. They received him in the most from Little Rock. It contains about friendly manner. After dinner, an Inone hundred inhabitants with a court- dian orator arose, and showing his rehouse. It is situated near a mountain, spect to the chief and the nation, thus from the base of which, on the western addressed Bossu: "It is a long time, side, flow the springs which have given Father, that we have not seen thy face. a name and celebrity to the place; they Our whole nation rejoices to see thee are about fifty in number, and empty walk again on our earth, which is white, into a small stream, which is one of the and has never been stained with the branches of the Ouachitta. The springs blood of thy nation. All thy children, are warm, differing in temperature from the Arkansas, have wept for thee, not one hundred and ten to one hundred and knowing what fate, since fourteen harfifty degrees Fahrenheit, and bear a vests and six moons, had met thee. high character for their restorative qual- We hope now that thou wilt no more ities, especially in chronic rheumatism, cross the great salty sea, in order to rescrofula, gout, and several cutaneous turn to the great village of the Frenchaffections. men, where thou hast been, and where, Good accommodations are provided according to reports, thou wast imprisfor visiters, who resort to the place in oned in a locked cottage (called Bastile), considerable numbers. because bad reports were raised against The Chalybeate Springs are three thee through the speaking bark," meanmiles northeast of the Hot springs, and ing letters. "If thou hadst remained are no less esteemed. The water is with us, this would not have happened cold, and impregnated with iron. to thee. Here the strong does not opThe Sulphur Springs, thirty miles press the weak. The malicious is not from Hot springs, have been known only happy, arid good men are not punished. a short time. Here the red men do not kill their brethSTATIsTICs.-According to the census ren, as the white men do, for land and of 1840, the whole amount of the popu- yellow iron," meaning gold, " which we lation of the state was 97,574; of whom despise. Here the earth nourishes us, l there were 42,211 white males, 34,963 which we cultivate, without trouble. white females, 19,935 slaves, and 465 Those to whom it gives the most, do not free colored persons. By the census of treasure up their harvest of potatoes, 1850, the population of Arkansas was, maize, or Indian corn, in order to obtain 162,225 whites, 590 free-colored persons, advantage from the misfortunes of othand 45,075 slaves; total 207,890. ers, and to rob them of their provisions, INDIANS.-Some poor remains of like the Europeans. On the contrary, tribes once inhabiting the fertile fields the Arkansas rejoice if they can sup of Arkansas, are still to be seen, but in a port widows, orphans, the aged, and the degraded and wretched condition. The helpless. Here we live contented, with30 466 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS out being tormented by burning pas- tomahawks in their hands. Our wigsions, like the white men, and without warns were forsaken, and our fields were committing murders or terrific crimes. uncultivated. WTe all appeared with Every one is here subject to the will empty stomachs and long faces. The of the great Spirit. Here, every man venison took flight before us; the serserves him, in the best manner, in a pents hissed for anger, and lengthened plain temple without decorations, under their stings; the birds, nestling near our the shade of an ancient green tree, from wigwams, by their mournful voices sang which flows an odoriferous gum. Re- obituary tunes. But to-day, the sun is main for ever with us, and let our people brilliant, the sky is clear, the clouds be thy people." have moved, the roads are covered with In the year 1720, a savage, from the roses, our gardens and fields will be Chitimachas nation, had murdered a cultivated, and we will offer to the great French missionary. Bienville, gover- Spirit the firstlings of their fruits. The nor of Louisiana, declared and made water is so clear that it represents to us war against the whole nation. Peace our image; the serpents take flight, or was obtained, on presenting the head are changed into eels; the birds rejoice of the murderer. In producing the cal- as by their sweet song; our women and umet of peace, one of the Indians ad- children dance and jump, that they fordressed the governor thus: "My heart get to eat and drink. The heart of the laughs for joy to see thy face. All of whole nation laughs for joy, that, at us have heard the word of peace which present, we thy people can walk united thou hast sent. The heart of the whole on the same road. The same sun will nation laughs so for joy, as to hear it give light to us both. We will have but beat. Our women, in this moment, have one united word, and our hearts shall forgotten the past, and have danced, and be one. WVhoever will kill the Frenchour children have jumped like young men, them will we kill. Our warriors fawns. On thy command, we will run shall go hunting to kill venison for them, and jump, like deer, to please thee. O and then we will eat all together. Is how beautiful is the sun to-day, in cornm- this not good? What dost thou say to parison with that time when thou wast this, father 1" angry at us! How dangerous is a bad WVhen we take into view the extent man! Thou knowest that only one has of the territory of this state, with its killed the praying chief," the mission- variety of surface and soil-the number, ary, "whose death has brought our best directions, and navigable character of warriors to the grave.'We are only its streams, and the favorable nature of left with old men, women, and children, the climate-we can not but anticipate a who stretch forth their hands to thee as rapid increase in population and wealth. a good father. The gall which for- Unfavorable circumstances indeed exist, merly filled thy heart has been changed but not greater than in many older states into honey. The great Spirit is no more in its neighborhood, which have made, angry against our nation. and are still making, great advances. "Thou hast requested the head of Early and due attention to public the bad man, to make peace, and we education and moral improvement, can have sent it. Heretofore the sun was hardly be overlooked by the intelligent, red, the road was covered with briers virtuous, and public-spirited inhabitants and thorns, the clouds were black, the of Arkansas; and here, as elsewhere, water thick and colored with blood. Our they will prove the most solid foundawomen wept, without cessation, over tions of permanent prosperity. With their dying men and relations, and were so many sad warnings as are here preafraid even to fetch wood, to prepare sented, on the one hand, of the dangers our food. Our children wept for fear; of delay, and, on the other, the noble our warriors were under arms, at the examples set by some other states, the least screech of the night-owl, and they Americans have enough to show them slept in no other manner than with their "I in what their great strength lieth." %_ - - _~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ - - - __~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_ _ -.- _ _ _7~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~i~ DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 467 I I _ __ _ _ __by Kentucky, nortbeast byVi7- _ _-_ _southeast by Georgia, southwest =-tsisIsppi iver, which separates it ______C der ofVieginiato Macon county _____________| ______-Tmis state is betweounded northn 5 and 36by Kentucky,7' north latitudeast by Vir-39' and1314wetlniuefoWahnt ginia, east stby North Caroline that can be drawn in this state, is from the northea southeast by Geogia, sout southwest by Mississippi, west by the Misand the mean area, forsissippi river, wenty-ninch separates it {! -~from Arkansas, and noacthest This state is divided into two by Mi ssouri. The main Appalachian ridge forms the boundary a largline for one hundred and sixtymlsogrmotettnreswi eight miles, from the south bory-seven der of Virginia to Macon county; miles, which embraces a little less thanonethiand the entiae outline is 1,171 limit is the ridge of Cumberlandmiles. It is betd, een c 350l and 36e 7' north latitude, and 40 39/ and 13d 14e west longitude from Vashington. The longest stractiveht line that can be drawn in this state, is ftom the northeast to the southwest corn er-south sevety-seven degsrees by calculation —almost five hundred miles. The mean length of the state is four hundred miles; the mean breadth, one hundred and fourteen; and the mean area, forty-five thousand six hundred, or above twenty-nine millions of square acres. This state is divided into two natural sections. The first and smaller occupies a large part of the valley of Tennessee river, and is two hundred and eighty miles long from southwest to northeast, with a medium breadth of fifty-seven miles, which embraces a little less than one third of the state. Its southern limit is the ridge of Cumberland mountains, and it is elevated, cool, and diversified in surface, with a good soil, pure air, and an abundance of excellent water. It deserves to be ranked am )ng the most attractive portions of the United States. The climate forbids the culture of the staples of the lower and warmer parts of the more southern districts, and grasses and grain are more natural to it. This 468 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. section has a rapid declivity toward the above the mouth of Tellico river, now southwest, and is, in fact, the reverse in Blount county. This was attacked side of the southern and highest section and taken by the savages in 1760, when of Kentucky, which occupies the north two hundred persons, of different ages slope of the same ridge. and both sexes, were killed. In the The western section, embracing above following year, however, Grant's expetwo thirds of the state and called West- ldition reduced the Indians, and estabern Tennessee, is subdivided by its riv- lished a permanent state of tranquillity ers into two parts, the northern of which by treaty, which encouraged the peopling embraces parts of the Cumberland and of the country. In 1765, settlements Tennessee valleys, the area lying in the were commenced on the Holston, which former being eleven thousand nine hun- increased rapidly in spite of the oppodred square miles, and that in the lat- sition made by the natives. ter ten thousand square miles. Central When the revolution began, the inhabTennessee has a declivity toward the itants, led by Colonel John Sevier, made west, though Tennessee river has there a successful resistance to the encroacha north course. Beyond that region, ments of the savages; and, assisted by Western Tennessee slopes toward the a few Virgin'i troops, defeated them in Mississippi, into which it is drained. the month of Tune, 1776. Difficulties, That portion of the state has a super- however, continued through the war. ficies of seven thousand, seven hundred Delegates from Tennessee appeared and forty square miles, and contains the in the first assembly of the state of North following rivers, which empty into the Carolina, and some of her soldiers asMississippi: the Obion, Forked Deer, sisted in Lhe defeat of the British and Big Hatchee, andWolf. These streams tory army at King's mountain, on the have a remarkable resemblance in their 7th of October, 1780. So great, howcourses, all of them flowing in parallel ever, were the obstacles in the way of curves, first northwest, then west, and a settlement of West Tennessee, that firnally southwest. The declivity down the site and vicinity of Nashville were a which they flow rises at about the dis- wilderness in 1779. tance of twenty-five miles west of Ten- North Carolina made a provisional nessee river, and descends westward by cession of the territory of this state to a gentle slope. the United States in 1784. This act This state, when first known to white was soon repealed, but the people admen, was covered with a thick forest, in hered to their favorite plan; and, as which the growth varied greatly, ac- North Carolina persevered in her oppocording to the various elevation, soil, sition to their independence, the country and relative situation of different parts. suffered from the evils of an uncertain These are very diversified, from the and unsettled government. The people highest points of Cumberland mountains adopted the name of Frankland for the to the rich valleys beside the principal country; but in 1790 the territory was rivers, and the low, inundated banks of ceded to the United States, and disorthe Mississippi. ders ceased. It received the name of HISTORY.-The whole territory of the territory southwest of the river Ohio. Tennessee was embraced by the second The first printing-press was introduced charter of North Carolina, granted by at Rogersville in November, 1791, and Charles the Second in 1664; but the on the 5th of that month the Knoxville first settlement was made in 1754. This Gazette appeared-the first newspaper was not a permanent one; for the few in Tennessee. families composing it, being much ex- MINERALs.-Tennessee abounds in posed to the Indians in their remote po- gypsum and marble of different colors; sition on Cumberland river, were obliged and burr-millstones are quarried in some to abandon it in the French war. In parts of the Cumberland mountains. 1757, Fort London was erected on the Iron mines are numerous, and several Little Tennessee river, about a mile lead mines have been worked. Salt DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 469 springs are known in many places, but fossil bones recently brought to New they are not of sufficient strength to Orleans from Tennessee." be very valuable. Saltpetre abounds in "THE' GIGANTIC FOSSIL.'-Consid.caves. able interest -has been recently excited Harpeth Ridge. —In a recent explora- by the announcement of the discovery tion in this region (which is in Davidson in Tennessee of the remains of a man county), in company with the geological eighteen feet high. The papers teem class of the college, new evidences were with accounts of the prodigy, and pubdiscovered of the correctness of what lic confidence was secured by the ashas been said of these formations-in sertion that the distinguished physicians the American Journal of Science, No. 2, of the west had testified that they were new series, p. 222 —in relation to their human remains. About the last of Derelative age, position, and identity with cember these remains reached this city; the corresponding formations of Ohio and on the first of January I was reand New York. The rocks in this vi- quested by a distinguished surgeon here cinity correspond with the blue shaly to go with him, on the invitation of the limestone of Cincinnati and the sur- proprietor, to examine them, and give rounding region, above which, in the an opinion. They had been erected in a knobs and ridges in Middle Tennessee, high room; the skeleton was sustained we find a stratum, of a few feet in thick- in its erect position by a large upright ness, corresponding with the red en- beam of timber. At a glance it was crinital limestone of the Niagara group, apparent that it was nothing more than New York; succeeding which, in most the skeleton of a young mastodon (one places, are the water-lime, Onondaga of Godman's tetracaulodons, with socklimestone, and Marcellus shale, of the ets for four tusks). The bones of the New York geologists, which correspond leg and ankle were complete, the metwith the water-lime, cliff-limestone, and atarsal bones wanting. The bones of black shale, of Louisville, Kentucky. the anterior extremities were complete to Immediately upon the shale was found the metacarpal bones, which were presa stratum composed almost entirely of ent in one leg, the phalanges wanting. the columns of encrinites, and occasion- Most of the vertebrae were present; the ally a beautiful head, which, from the ribs mostly of wood. The pelvic ardisintegration of the rock, may be found rangement was entirely of wood; the detached and upon the surface. In this scapulae were present, but somewhat formation at Louisville have been found broken, and were rigged on with a most eight or ten undescribed species of en- human-like elevation, pieces of ribs supcrinites, some of which Dr. Troost, state plying the want of clavicles. The osgeologist of Tennessee, has figured and seous parts of the head were portions, described for the memoirs of the Geo- nearly complete, of the upper and lower logical society of France. jaws. Some of the molars were quite Above the lastmnentioned rock occurs complete; of the tusks, only one little a layer of dark-brown slate, a few feet stump remained, but the four alveoli of in thickness, containing the strophomena the upper jaw had large incisive-looksetigera, and tentaculitesfissurella, prob- ing wooden teeth fitted into them, and ably corresponding with the Genesee the lower jaw supplied to correspond. slate of New York. This is succeeded The cranium was entirely wanting from by olive shales and sandstone, corre- the lower margin of the orbits, back; sponding with the portage group of New but a raw-hide cranium was fitted on, York. which was much more becoming to the In the year 1846 a skeleton was dis- animal in his new capacity than the old covered in Tennessee, which was at cne would have been. first reported to be a fossil giant. An The artificial construction was prinexamination of it, however, by scien- cipally in the pelvis and head; and, tific men, soon detected the error. We taking it as thus built up —in its half- I copy the following "remarks on the human, half-beastlike look, with its great i -opy tho fo~owin, 470 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. hooked, incisive teeth-it certainly must breadth, in which is found stone coffins have conveyed to the ignorant spectator so close to one another, that each corpse a most horrible idea of a hideous, dia- is separated from its neighbor by only bolical giant, of which he dreamed, no a single stone, the side of one coffin doubt, for months. To one informed in forming one of the sides of the next. such matters, it really presented a most In a circle of about ten miles in diamludicrous figure. eter, there are six extensive burying"The person who had it for exhi- grounds. These graves are supposed to bition was honest, I believe, in his con- contain the remains of an extinct race. victions as to its being the remains of a The extinct race is supposed to have man, having been confirmed in them by been less civilized than the Indians who numerous physicians, whose certificates were fund here at the time of Columhe had in his possession; and, having bus. This is inferred from the trinkets asked and received my opinion, he de- and utensils found'in the graves being terminedi to box it up, never again to of a very rude construction, and all be exhibited as the remains of a human formed of some natural product-none being."... of metal. Dr. Troost says that the Dr. Troost endeavors to show that examination of these trinkets, &c., has the bodies which have been found in the created in him an opinion that the peocaves of Tennessee are not probably ple to whom they belonged, and in whose mummies, but merely dried cadavers, graves they are found, came from some exhibiting 1no marks of embalming or art- tropical country, and adduces many coificial preparation. He doubts whether gent reasons for thinking so. That they one of these, which he examined, was were idolaters, and, from their idolseven of remote antiquity. The other several of which are in the possession question is respecting the numerous of Dr. Troost-acquainted with some graves found in the western states some of the idolatrous mysteries of the Egypyears ago, and which were said to con- tian and other eastern nations, is very tain the remains of an extinct pigmy evident. This would seem to indicate race of human beings. Dr. Troost sup- that the earliest inhabitants of this conposes these graves to contain the col- tinent had an eastern origin, and is corlected bones of the slain in battle. The roborative of a common opinion. Indian custom was to carry their slain CAVERNS.-The caves may well be to their own towns, and hang them up ranked among the natural curiosities of in mats on trees. At their general burn- the country. One is four hundred feet ing festivals, the bones thus preserved deep, with a stream of pure water at the were collected and buried, "and thence bottom; and one cave, on one of the in my opinion," says the doctor, " those peaks of Cumberland mountains, is of numerous small graves which are attrib- greater extent than is yet known. Some uted, but I believe erroneously, to pig- of them are several miles in extent, and mies. I have opened numbers of these present sides and roofs of remarkable small graves, and have found them filled uniformity, with the appearance of haywith a parcel of mouldered bones, which, ing been cut by art, or worn by the judging from some fragments I have washing of streams. One has been exseen, belonged to common-sized men. plored for a distance of ten miles. In one of them I found, among these STATISTICS.-According to the census mouldered bones, two occipital bones; of 1840, the population of the state was of course, it was a mere mixture of 829,210; of whom there were 325,434 bones belonging to more than one body. white males; 315,193 white females; These bones lay without any order." 183,059 slaves; 2,796 free colored perThe doctor then considers the circum- sons. According to the census of 1850, stances attending the ancient and exten- the population was 767,319 whites, 6,280 sive burying-grounlds found in Tennes- firee colored persons, and 249,519 slaves; see. He mentions one near Nashville, total 1,023,118. about a mile in length and of unknown FURNAcEs.-An official report to the Kl- DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 471 legislature of Tennessee sets down the or protection to the vast region west of capital employed in the iron business the mountains. Conflicts with Indians, at $4,100,000, and the annual products collisions with Spaniards-then our powat the same amount. Three fourths of erful neighbors south and southwestthis capital is employed in Middle Ten- went on for years, with bloody forages nessee. On the Cumberland river, near and wild adventures on both sides. The Nashville, there are "twenty-one blast- federal governor came —a man prudent fiurnaces, eleven forges, and three splen- in policy and conduct. At that time did rolling-mills, which yield annually the town where I am writing was comabout $800,000." On the Tennessee menced; it took the honored name of river "there are twelve furnaces, and Knox, after the then secretary of war. eight forges and bloomeries, which pro- Andrew Jackson, then a young lawyer duce about 180,000 tons annually." recently from North Carolina, was made The agricultural products of Tennes- United States district attorney. On this see are in value $57,551,820; while spot the state government was first set those of Ohio are only $57,899,390, and up, and here was its seat for many years. of New York.57,685,400: showing Ten- The eastern part, for some purposes, is nessee to be the third state in the Union really a state within itself. One day it in productive wealth. made the attempt to set up for itself. The ordinary revenue of the state in With a little corner of Virginia, and 1850 was $200,000. another fragment of North Carolina, "The original settlers," says a late in- East Tennessee constituted itself the telligent letter-writer, "came of a good state of Frankland, but the effort was stock. A strong religious, puritan-like premature. It is the Switzerland of character was that of the leading men the south. The Cumberland mountains, among them; and although multiplied which divide the state on a part of its sects have since sprung up, there is a northern boundary from Kentucky, turn leaven of it still remaining. sheer out of their straight course, and, "East Tennesseans are sometimes sweeping across the state, terminate called the yankees of the south. They abruptly in Georgia. TheUnakas, comhave strong sense, shrewdness, and pa- ing down from North Carolina on the tience in labor, like your New-Eng- east, meet them there, and both ranges lander. There is probably some degen- together hem in this mountainous diseracy, however, from the heroic age of trict. this people. " But, with the tokens of retrogres"The early days of Indian fighting, sion and decay above adverted to, what and of manifold struggles and privations, shall be done to secure permanence towere the days of peculiar energy and gether with true progress 1 Perhaps a fortitude-the like of which are not ex- friesh infusion of vital force is needed. hibited now in the various departments No portion of the Union, I think, would of peaceful life. There is an aspect of better please the industrious farmer of newness visible here and there; there New England; and such men, as a class, are indications of progress, but there would be acceptable to this population. are also signs of decay. Some things Both would be benefited by the accesaie waxing old and ready to vanish away sion. Elements of agricultural and manin this state, which has lived as a state ufacturing skill found among them are but fifty years. needed here; they would do substantial " Near the Holston is a hill, at the service, and would find their reward. foot of which the first-appointed gover- "This soil yields a fine increase with nor of the southwestern territory landed no great labor bestowed upon it-withand selected his residence. President out scientific, not to say careful cultiWashington had sent him out. Peace vation. In corn, no state equals Tenestablished with Great Britain-the con- nessee. On these hills sheep could be stitution formed, and states settling down raised in great numbers, if only the quietly under it-had not given peace dogs were reduced in number at the 472 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. same time. The climate is very agree- miles from Carthage. The stream has able-most grateful to invalids. People a rapid course for some distance before were crossing the ice at Albany and on it reaches the cascade, having a descent Lake Champlain, when the peach-trees of one hundred and fifty feet within a had long since bloomed with us; gar- short distance, when it makes a precipdens were beginning to look well; in itous leap of one hundred and fifty or some places, it was already late to two hundred feet, in a single sheet, make them here, when snow was lying eighty feet broad. ten feet deep in Vermont the last sea- The fall on Taylor's creek is still son. Fruits, flowers, and crops, come more remarkable, as the scenery is more some five or six weeks earlier than in wild, and the approach attended with your vicinity, and there is abundance much danger, while the perpendicular for all. Without the oppressive heat of descent is greater, being, as some say, more southern climes, this region has a from two hundred to two hundred and bland atmosphere, and the freshness and fifty feet. What adds to the impressive, vigorous life of more northern countries. gloomy, and terrific effect of the scene, Its position, southern and elevated, gives is a large overhanging rock, three or it that combination. four hundred feet high, which almost ex" These mountains have sent out no cludes the sight of the sky, and throws small part of the active men of the en- its shade over the wild and foaming tire southwest. Many of their fore- sheets of falling water, which are half most men were trained among these converted into foam and spray by the hills." height of the fall and strong currents of Among the curiosities of Tennessee air, which rush and whirl through the are the celebrated foot-prints on some deep and frightful gulf. parts of the Cumberland mountains. Another fall, only twenty yards distant The rocks on which they have been ob- from this spot, toward the south, offers served are of limestone, and some of to the spectator a scene of a very differthem have been supposed to be the ent nature. A precipice, about three tracks of men, others of horses and oxen, hundred feet high, crosses the channel of and all of recent date. Some observers, another and smaller stream, which, in deon the other hand, have regarded them scending it, is divided into innumerable as the tracks of bears and other wild little rills, each of which forms separate beasts, and probably very ancient. cascades, and all together, in the conPetrifactions of various kinds abound trast of the dark rock down which they in some parts of the state. Near the pour, present a scene remarkable for its southern line are three petrified trees, richness and beauty. nearly entire. One of them is a cypress, Along some of the streams of Tennesanother a sycamore, and the third a wal- see, where they flow through rocks of nut. They were discovered in conse- limestone, wonderful effects have been quence of the falling of a bank on the produced by the cutting out of deep chansouth shore of the Tennessee river. nels between high and ragged banks. Claws, teeth, and bones, of different large Some of the larger and navigable rivers animals, have been found in numerous present scenes of this description to the places. Logs, too, in various stages of admiration of the traveller, who is borne change, have been dug up at various with rapidity along the bases of lofty natdepths; and both mineral coal and char- ural walls, inaccessible to human foot, coal have been found at from sixty to and sometimes apparently overhanging one hundred feet below the surface of the stream, and threatening destruction the ground. to everything below. When contemCAscADEs.-These are numerous, and plated from above, the rivers in some many of them very picturesque. One places appear to flow through deep chanof the most beautiful is the "Falling nels cut by the labor and skill of man, Water," on a branch of Caney creek, so uniform is the original surface of the eight miles from its mouth, and sixty ground, and so smooth and perpendicu DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 473 lar the rocky precipices which descend and has in its library about six thousand from the level. volumes. KNOXVILLE.-This town is the prin- NAsHVILLE.-This town, the capital cipal one in East Tennessee, and stands of the state, stands at the head of steam on Holston river, four miles below the navigation, on the left bank of Cumbermouth of French Broad creek. It has land river, one hundred and twenty miles about five thousand inhabitants, some from its junction with the Ohio. Near of whom are engaged in manufactures. it are three lofty bluffs. The situation The situation and appearance of the is fine, the climate healthful and inviting, town are pleasant; and it is the site of and the town has been rapid in its a very respectable literary institution, growth. East Tennessee university. Here is One of the most striking of the pubthe head of steamboat navigation, and lic buildings is the markethouse, which stagecoaches run three times a week for is one of the finest in the western counWashington (D. C.), via Abingdon (Vir- try. There are 13 churches, a lunatic ginia) and Staunton; for Raleigh (N. asylum, the state penitentiary, three C.); for Charleston (S. C.) via Warm banks, a lyceum, and many handsome Springs; for Savannah (Georgia) via houses. The population in 1850 was Atlanta; for Nashville; and for Lex- eighteen thousand. The distance from ington (Kentucky) via Cumberland gap. Washington is seven hundred and fourEast Tennessee University. - The teen miles southwest; it is five hundred buildings of this institution are situated and ninety-four northeast of New Oron the summit of a considerable emi- leans, two hundred and ninety-four southnence, half a mile west of Knoxville, west of Cincinnati, two hundred and and near the bank of the IHolston. The eighty-eight south of Indianapolis, and principal edifice, which occupies the nine hundred and thirty-seven southwest centre, has on each side a fine building, of New York. three stories high, for the accommoda- The Capitol is constructed of pure tion of students. There are also three white limestone, and upon a plan of the residences of the professors. most liberal magnificence, challenging The institution possesses a philosoph- the admiration of the Union. Chaste, ical apparatus, a chemical laboratory, a yet grand, it will stand through all time, mineralogical cabinet, and a library of as a noble monument of the taste and about four thousand volumes. Con- patriotism of this age: and to the youths mencement is held on the first Wednes- of the state who gaze upon its complete day of August. and faultless proportions, it will irresistiJONESBOROUGH is a small town, with bly convey a lesson in architectural symabout one thousand inhabitants, and the metry and beauty, that books may never site of Washington college. It is on teach them. the bank of a branch of Holston river, Nashville University. —This instituten miles south of the latter, and has a tion was founded in 1806, and has four courthouse, three churches, and two professors, two tutors, about three hunacademies. dred alumni, one hundred students, and Washington College was founded in ten thousand volumes in its libraries. 1794, and has a president, three profes- The principal building is two hundred sors, about one thousand volumes in its feet long, fifty wide, and three stories library, and about fifty students. high. Commencement is held on the MAYSnILLE.- This is also on the first Wednesday in October. bank of the Holston, eighteen miles MEMPHIS, one of the most busy and from Knoxville, and has a courthouse, a flourishing towns in the state, is situated church, and about five hundred inhab- on the bank of the Mississippi, in front itants. of an extensive and productive region, The Southwest Theological Seminary, which is naturally tributary to it; it has which is situated here, was founded in lately been selected as the site of the 1821. It is under the presbyterians, United States navyyard on the river.! _ _ ___________________________ _ _ 1i ^ - F - -I: l~ ~ ~ ~~~~~~~ —-" -~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-n DESCRIPTION OF THE,STATE OF TENNESSEE. 475 COLUMBIA, forty-two miles from Nash- and exposures in this extensive terriville, stands on Duck river, and has a tory may be found all the forest-trees courthouse, three churches, an academy, known in the southern states. The laua bank, and about two thousand inhab- rel tribe, however, is rare. The proditants. There is a daily communication ucts of agriculture are very numerous by stagecoaches with Nashville. and abundant-chiefly cotton, tobacco, Jackson College, situated in this town, flour, indigo, &c. was founded in 1830, and has four pro- Tennessee presents us with a very fessors, and about one hundred students, peculiar form, and a surface, climate, with one thousand two hundred and fifty and variety of soils, varying on almost volumes in its li)braries. every side. Under a judicious system FRANKLIN.-This town, eighteen miles of moral and intellectual as well as physfrom Nashville, on the left side of Har- ical improvement, how general-how peth river, contains a courthouse, five rapid-how permanent might its prosacademies, four churches, and about fif- perity become, in every department teen hundred inhabitants. Stagecoaches necessary and desirable! The most instart three times a week for Nashville. telligent and truly patriotic of her citiCLARKSVILLE is sixty-five miles from zens have long shown their high regard Nashville by the Cumberland road, on for learning, refinement, and religion, the right bank of which it stands, and by the establishment and support of incontains about two thousand inhabitants. stitutions which have already reflected There are a courthouse, three churches, honor on the state, while they have two banks, and an academy. It is a contributed to the benefit of the people. place of much business, an active trade That enterprise is not wanting with being carried on in cotton and tobacco. many of the inhabitants, is farther proved Steamboats run to Nashville and New by the abundant products annually obOrleans, and stagecoaches start three tained by agriculture, floated down her times a week for Nashville and Smith- rivers and launched upon the Missisland. sippi. The appearance of the principal MURFREESnORO'.-This town was for- towns, also, bears witness to the good merly the state capital. It stands on a taste and refinement of many of the citsmall branch of Cumberland river, and izens, no less than do the iron-works and has a courthouse, three churches, an other manufactories tothe industry, skill, academy, and fifteen hundred inhab- and success of the mechanics. itants. Much, however, remains to be done, KINGSTON, on the right bank of Ten- as well in Tennessee as in other states, nessee river, and at the mouth of Clinch and especially our southwestern states, river, has a courthouse, two churches, to counteract the unfavowrable ten denand about seven hundred inhabitants. cies of regions in their peculiar circumCLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS.'- The stances. The debiiitating effects of a seasons are generally much milder than warm climate ill some parts, with the luxin Kentucky. On the higher regions'ury spontaneously introduced by wealth; the summer heats are moderate, and and, in others, the obstacles in the way apples, pears, peaches, and other north- of improvement among a thin populaer,: fruits, are successfully cultivated. tion scattered over a rough and wilder In West Tennessee, cotton forms the country, demand great and combined staple production. Indian corn is plant- exertions on the part of the fiiends of ed, in the middle portions of the state, education, public intelligence, pure habi early in April. Where stagnant waters its, and real national advancement, to abound in some of the valleys, disease counteract and overcome them. That is generated, andl the alluvial regions on such men may arise, duly impressed with the larger streams are unhealthy. the importance of the duty before them, Among the forest-trees, juniper, red- and with a spirit fitted to cope with all cedar, and savine, prevail in the more the obstacles they encounter, is the earelevated regions; and in the various soils nest desire of every firiend of the state. 476 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. KENTUCKY. THIS state is bounded north by Ohio, from which it is separated by the Ohio river; east by Virginia, from which it is separated lI_ Nil Nted by Cumberland mountains and — =ADAN ~ Sandy river; south by Tennessee; southwest by Mississippi, from which it is separated by squ_ M_ rMississippi river; west by Illinois, from which it is separated by Ohio river; and northwest by Indiana, from which it is separated by the same river. It lies between the parallels of 360 30' s —- riverand 390 6' north latitude, and the meridians of 50 3' and 120 3S' west of Washington. The superficies is about forty thousand five hundred square miles. The longest line that can be drawn in this state is from the southwest corner to the place where Sandy river crosses Cumberland mountains, and is four hundred and thirty-one miles in length. The greatest breadth is from the northwest corner along latitude seven degrees forty-five minutes, and is one hundred and seventy-one and a half miles. This state forms but a part of the great declivity of Cumberland mountains, sloping northwest toward Ohio river. A minor slope, however, toward Tennessee river, first turns Green, Cumberland, Salt, Kentucky, and Licking rivers, west or southwest; but those waters afterward obey the grand slope, and, running northward, pour into the Ohio. The tillable surface in different parts of the state has a great diversity of elevation, from three hundred and fifty to twelve hundred feet above the gulf of Mexico. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 477 There is, therefore, a considerable heads of the great Kenhawa, Roanoke, diversity of temperature and produc- Clinch, and Holston rivers; but that tions; and these are farther increased part, including Kentucky, was left enby certain peculiarities of the surface. tirely blank, as a region of terra incogThe channels of the rivers are gen- nira. erally cut remarkably deep into the In 1767, John Finley visited it from earth, and have formed, in some places, North Carolina, and he was followed by broad valleys, partly shut out from the Daniel Boone and several other men in full influence of the sun. One third 1769. Boone remained there until 1771, part of the descent, beginning with the and returned in 1775 with a small band first part of the descent from the foot of of resolute settlers. the Cumberland mountains, is very hilly Kentucky River, as well as the state, and broken for about one hundred miles, derives its name from the language of comprising one third part of the state, the Indians, who called it Cutawa. It from the Tennessee line to the Ohio. is formed by numerous branches, which Beyond this another section extends have their sources in the west slope north, about ninety miles in width and of Cumberland mountains, interlocking two in length, which may be called the with the head-streams of Sandy, Pow. hilly part of the state. It contains about ell's, and Cumberland rivers. The upeighteen thousand square miles, and is per streams of the Kentucky flow northin the form of a rhomb. The middle west from the counties of Pike and part of it, however, is much less uneven Perry, and uniting in Estill county, then than the two extremes. But all parts turn west from the boundary between of it are alike in two important respects: the counties of Clarke and Madison. they belong to one extent of uneven ta- The stream, next turning southwest, ble-land, with a similar substratum of runs between Madison and Lafayette limestone, and with a soil generally good, counties, and Jessamine and Garrard, but a frequent scarcity of good water. when it receives Dick's river from the The southwestern section, which is southeast. Finally, turning north-noiththe smallest of the three divisions, is west, it keeps that course until it falls almost level. into the Ohio at Port William. Its gen" The Barrens" is a tract of consid- eral course is nearly northwest. erable extent in the southern and moun- The valley of the Kentucky lies betainous section, with isolated rounded tween latitude 37~0 and 38~ 40', and lonelevations, bearing stunted oak, chest- gitude 50 40' and 80 10'; it measures nut, and elm-timber. The soil, how- one hundred and seventy-five miles in ever, even there, is much better than length, and has a'medium breadth of appearances indicate. The more level forty miles, with an area of seven thouand unchannelled portions of the cen- sand square miles, being about one sixth tral section were covered by nature with part of the whole state. It contains the full-grown forest-trees, and abundance following counties, in whole or in part: of the reed-cane, the limestone soil being Anderson, Clark, Clay, Estill, Franklin, there remarkable for its strength and Gallatin, Garrard, Henry, Jessamine, fertility. Lafayette, Lincoln, Madison, Mercer, HISTORY. —The first settlement of Montgomery, Owen, Perry, Pike, Scott, this state by white men was effected by Woodford. men of great hardihood, and attended This great stream flows in a channel with severe privations and extreme dan- remarkable for its depth, it being a great gers. A map of the middle British col- chasm, cut far down below the level of onies was published in 1755, by Lewis the country which it waters. SteamEvans; and in 1775, J. Almon, of Lon- boats navigate it fiom Estill county don, published an edition of it with a downward, though the current is rapid, statistical account of the country. At and has a considerable descent, although that time, as appears from these, settle- not broken by falls. ments had been extended as far as the Cumberland River rises in this state, _________________________ 478 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. but, after a course of one hundred and POPULATION.-According to the centwenty miles, leaves it, and crosses the ses of 1850, the population consisted of boundary of Tennessee, on its way to 770,061 whites, 9,667 fiee colored perthe Mississippi. sons, and 221,768 slaves; total 1,001,GOVERNMENT.-The legislative power 496. is vested in a senate and house of repre- THE MAMMOTH CAVE. —The followsentatives, which together are styled the ing brief description we copy from a general assembly. letter in the New York Recorder. This The senators are thirty-eight in num- wonderful cavern is the largest in the ber, chosen, one half of them biennially, world:by the people from single districts foir a "During the summer of 1845 I was term of four years. Representatives, one called into the vicinity of the Mammoth hundred in number. are chosen by the cave, and I determined to devote a few people, for a term of two years. hours to a visit to this renowned cuA governor and lieutenant-governor riosity. are elected by the people for a term of " Leaving the main road at Mumfordsfour years. The governor is ineligible ville, we are conducted to the right by for the four years succeeding the expi- a path lately opened for the accommoration of his term. The lieutenant- dation of visiters. As we approach the governor is president of the senate, and cave, the country assumes a wild and on him the deuties of governor devolve picturesque appearance, rising abruptly in case the office of the latter becomes in precipices, covered with verdure and vacant. wild flowers, or stretching away into the The governor may return a bill passed distance its fiuitfiul valleys, diversified by the legislature, but a majority of the with the neat farmhouse of the planter members elected to each house may reposing among flowers, and the cabins pass the bill afterward, and it then be- of the poor peeping humbly forth fiom comes a law notwithstanding his objec- the luxuriant fields of corn. Sometimes tions. thlie road leads up the steep mountain's The state officers, viz., the treasurer, side; then, winding around its summit, auditor of public accounts, register of suddenly conducts us again to the vale the land-office, and attorney-general, are below. After a succession of these ups elected by the people, for a term of four and downs, the traveller ascetids the years. mountain in which the cave is situated. The judicial power is vested in a court The first object of interest to the visitof appeals, circuit courts, and county er is the entrance to this undergrlound courts; the judges of each election by world; but for this he looks in vain. the people. He sees only a large white building, surThe general election takes place on rounded by a variety of outhouses, octhe first Monday of August bienniially, cupying the centre of a clearing of small and the legislature meets on the first of extent. November biennially, at Frankfort. "Having procured a guide at the hoEvery white male citizen 21 years tel (without whom no one is permitted of age, or over, resident in the state two to enter the cave), I was conducted down years, or in the county where he offers a steep declivity to the right of the to vote, one year next preceding the house, until we entered a deep gully, election, may vote at such election. through which courses a small stream Elections by the people are viva voce, of water, among broken fiagments of and not by ballot. rocks, scattered about in wild confusion. PRonUCTIONS.-Grain is the staple Following this ravine for a number of production, but hemp and flax are pro- rods, we turn suddenly to the right, and duced of excellent quality. Flour, spir- the mouth of the cave is before you. its, salted meat, and live stock, are sent But little effort seems to have been made to New Orleans every year, by the to change its natural appearance, and!Mississippi, in great quantities. that little has greatly marred its beauty a ~ Entrance to the Mammoth Cave. L____ __ __,,_,_._ ___ ______________________________ ___ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ______ lA.4S_0 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. and interest. The sublime in nature, the wind, it swept over the wild prairies like great men and noble deeds, should of the west; and the father of waters be left to appear in its own native orna- when he spurned the narrow bounds of ments. The descent is somewhat abrupt his native channel: but never did I comand unpromising-a confused mass of prehend the nature of true sublimity ununsightly rocks is all that meets the eye. til this moment. It was not the fire, the We advance until the appearance is like earthquake, nor the wind; but it was the gray mists of the early dawn, when the still small voice of God, speaking in the lamps are lighted, and preparations this temple made with his own hands, made for the subsequent exploration. as he spoke to Elijah. It was one of Soon'after the descent, the passage is those moments, few and far between, through a door built of rough stones, when the soul appears to catch one through which rushes a strong current glimpse of its future and tranquillized of air, that at first produces an unpleas- existence. ant chilliness; this, however, gradually " Having mentioned the name of Marwears off, as we advance into the more shall, the guide informed me that he was extended galleries of the cave. The employee then as now when Marshall bottom over which we pass was once, came to the cave. At my request he conevidently, the bed of a river. It is now ducted me to the spot where the shanty deeply marked by the feet of oxen, and was erected for his accommodation. It the wheels of carts, once employed here is situated a little more than a mile from in the manufacture of saltpetre. The the entrance. Here the poor invalid, aveaue gradually increases, until the with his devoted wife, took up his abode, eye, unaccustomed to the surrounding with a hope that the peculiar atmosphere gloom, tries in vain to trace the outline of the place would restore him to health. of the lofty ceiling. The first object of Vain hope! His Master said:' Come more than ordinary interest is the' Gi- up higher'-and he passed from the ant's Coffin'-a large rock, sixty feet in darkness of this living tomb, to the glolength, that, from the point where the ries of the upper paradise. Here the beholder stands, presents the perfect affectionate wife watched by the couch outline of a coffin. Next we pass the of her afflicted husband, leaving him only dilapidated saltpetre works, which great- once a day (as the guide informed me), ly detract from this sublime work of na- and then only for a short time, to enjoy ture. Progressing onward three quar- the light and sunshine of the outer world ters of a mile, we enter the'Church,' above. Portions of this little cabin still a vast dome where a pulpit and seats remain. I lingered around the spot have been erected; and as invalid cler- with a melancholy pleasure. gymen often come here to seek a res- " We will pass hastily through' Purtoration of health, the opportunity i, gatory;' take a peep into'Limbo;' improved, and religious services are tarry a few moments in the'Hall of conducted in this subterranean chapel. Independence;' cross the' Dead Sea;' I ascended the rude pulpit while the make a speech in the'Whispering Galguide was igniting a quantity of salt- lery'-all of which have their peculiar petre; and as it threw its livid glare and indescribable beauties —and we are over the place, revealing the dark open- come to the river' Styx,' beyond which, ings of the various avenues branching as I was informed, are situated the more out on every side —the vaulted dome interesting portions of this immense sparkling with crystals of various forms grotto. But as I could not devote the and hues-the effect was almost over- time necessary for further examination, I powering. I have stood on the verge declined employing the modern Charon of Niagara, and beheld its whirl of who here plies the oar-who, I must waters, and listened to the wild, deep say, demands an exorbitant price for his music of its voice-I have seen the ocean, services. in its fury, beating the sounding shore;. " To appreciate fully the beauty and the storm of fire, as, with the wings of sublimity of this wonder of nature, the DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 481l visiter must devote several days to the tie of the mound, on the original stirwork of exploration. face, the appearance of two skeletons " The body of Marshall lies near the was discovered. The dirt was then hotel, in its unassuming grave, unnoticed carefully taken away from one, and there by the pleasure-seeking throng, who was found about its neck a great numhere concregate to squander away their beh of small sea or lake-shells albout the precious time in idleness and dissipa- size of periwinkles, and the small end tion." ground off so as to string them foa r the INDIAN CURIOSITIES.-WVe have al- neck. The most superficial examination ways-says a western paper-regarded of them will convince any intelligent man any event or circumstance, calculated to that they have had their origin in the throw light upon the history of the ab- sea or lakes. After the removal of this origincs of this country, as peculiarly in- one, the other was carefully exhlumed, teresting and worthy of record. As a and a like quantity of beads was found nation, we are fast losing sight of the old upon its neck and breast, but of an enoriginal landmarks which distinguished tirely different kind. They are round, the two differlent races who inhabited and with a hole through them, and are made occupied this beautiful country; and as of a solid ivory-like bone, with a very one of those races is as rapidly disap- fine polish. There has been great inpearing as the other is increasing in genuity, too, in their niake: they begin numbers and power, it becomes a sacred with a very large hole in the middle of duty with us to preserve as much as we the strand, which has one edge much can, for future generations, of their sin- narrower than the opposite one, the rest igular character-a character distinctive being strung on at each end of the strand, in itself firom all other races of the and made pretty much of the same fashearth-and whatever evidences may, ion, but, gradually diminishing in size, from time to time, be discovered as we formed a round ring precisely fitted to progress in civilization. Some discov- the neck. The number found shows eries have recently been made in Ken- that the same neck wore several strands. tucky, and were reported in the Louis- But upon the breast of the same skeleton ville Journal. was found a breastplate of copper, hav"Last fall, when it was first resolved ing a beautiful piece apparently of marto remove the mound, it had not been ble, worked to fit upon it very neatly and dug into more than nine or ten feet be- mechanically. It is an oblong square, fore several fine specimens of isinglass scolloped on the sides and ends, and were discovered. This excited much rounded on the corners, weigllilng seven curiosity, and strict attention was paid ounces and a half precisely. It is six to all subsequent removals. The cold inches and a half long, and four inches weather, however, setting in, stopped and three eighths in width at each end. the project until the opening of spring, There are two holes in the middle of it when the work was again commenced, about an inch and a hIalf apart. The and has been going on ever since. Sev- piece of stone weighs seven ounces and eral skeletons have been dug up at dif- a quarter. It is five inches and a half ferent times in a good state of preserva- in length, and one and an eighth in tion; the teeth, particularly, had the width at each end, an(d two in the midenamel on them apparently as perfect dle. It has two holes tlhrough it coras ever. They were buried without responding to those upon the breastany uniformity, some with their heads plate, nnd fits down upon it with a flat toward the south, and some sitting up. side, the upper part beihIg oval. The There were thought to be considerable holes are an eighth in diameter on the discoveries; and indeed they are, forthey flat side, but, coming through to the prove incontestably that the mound is upper oval surface, a pin-head would of artificial origin; but, in speaking of fill either of them; they are drillod so them, the half is not told. I smooth and neatly, it would beggar hlu"Some six weeks ago, near the cen- man ingenuity to excel them at the 31 482 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. present time. Immediately under the forest, field, and habitation. The canal back of the skeleton a whetstone was cuts through it in a straight line, with its found, three and a half inches long, and gliding show of steamboats, apparenttwo and a half broad. It is an excel- ly self-impelled through the meadows. lent piece of sandstone, and has the ap- The Ohio, with its sparkling rapids and pearance of having been greatly used." distant waving outline, and the city, imLEXINGTON.-This is the most popu- bowered in trees, fill up the picture. lous town in the state, and one of the Out of the scores of fine buildings, some most beautiful in appearance and situ- imposing public edifices and three or ation, as well as most distinguished for four stately churches rise and detach its flourishing condition, and intelligent themselves; presenting, altogether, a and refined society. It stands near the scene truly beautiful and inviting. sources of Town creek, which is one LOUISVTLLE. — This city stands on the of the branches of Elkhorn river, twen- south bank of the Ohio, just above the ty-four miles southeast by east from rapids, and below the mouth of BearFrankfort, eighty south of Cincinnati, grass creek, in latitude 38~ 1S' north, and five hundred and seventeen a little and 50 42' west longitude from Washsouth of west from Washington, in lat- ington. It is the most important comitude 38~ 3', longitude 70 28' west. mercial town in the state. The navigaThis place, notwithstanding its sub- tion of the Ohio, interrupted by nature, stantial appearance, was hardly a village except only during high water, about in 1785, and in 1795 contained only ten months in the year, has been imabout fifty dwellings and three hundred proved by a canal constructed round the and fifty inhabitants. The population falls. in 1820, was 5,279; in 1830, 6,404; in The distance fiom Frankfort is fifty1840, 6,997; and in 1850, about 9,500. two miles, a little east of north; one It is the oldest town in the state and hundred and twelve from Cincinnati; -was once its capital. six hundred and thirty-two from PittsIt is a place of considerable manufac- burg; and one thousand four hundred tures, especially in cotton, woollen, linen, and eleven from New Orleans. The copper, tin, and ironware; and grist- ground is seventy-five feet above lowmills, papermills, tanneries, ropewalks, water mark, and the streets cross at &c., are numerous. right angles, giving a favorable appearTransylvania University, situated at ance to the city from without, and a fine Lexington, was founded before the sep- display to the public buildings. The aration of Kentucky from Virginia, re- principal of these are the cityhall, the organized in 1798, and brought under courthouse, marine-hospital, medical inthe present system in 1818. In 1820 it stitute, city-hospital, two savings-banks, contained one hundred and forty-three four insurance-offices, two orphan asyacademical, two hundred medical, and lumrs, four markets, a school for the nineteen law students. The college blind, eighteen public schools, tllirty sebuildings were partly destroyed by fire lect schools, a Magdalen asylum, three some years since, but they are now much banks, and twenty-six churches. The enlarged. city is lighted with gas, and expensive The Canal.-A short but noble canal works are in construction to supply it surmounts, by a cut-off, the rapids of with good water. This being the printhe Ohio, two miles from Louisville. cipal place of business in tile state, and, The locks and bridges of this work are to a great extent, of the neighboring on a grand and massive scale. The country, a very extensive trade centres noble three-arched bridge, under which here; and where an unknown number a large two-decked steamer can pass, of flatbottomed and keel-boats are conis the first attraction. From this point stantly employed in the transportation of Louisville and its environs present a goods, about three hundred steamboats charming panorama. The country is are also in constant activity, running in slightly rolling, and richly diversified by different directions, to and from the city. JI ji Iil - -!1 i, 4 ii I; I~~~li~ ~~bi~i~iJ~~i!.~ I Ii,Ii ii I __!il!1 j J Ij 484 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. The growth of Louisville has been the Ionic style, and makes a conspicuvery rapid. In 1800 the inhabitants ous appearance. It is built entirely of amounted to only 1,357; in 1830 they marble, and contains halls for the chamwere 10,196, and in 1850 about 44,000. bers of the legislature, the court of apMany kinds of manufactures are carried peals, and the federal court. The stairon here. The canal, leading round the case has a fine effect, being placed under falls, is one of the earliest and most im- the dome. portant works of improvement under- A chain-bridge crosses the river near taken in this part of' the country. The the middle of the town, where the banks charter wmas granted in 1825, and the are four or five hundred feet high. canal was opened for use in 1829. The Among the public buildings are the stock was $600,000, of which congress courthouse, state-penitentiary, markettook $100,000. The canal is nearly house, bank, academy, theatre, and five three miles in length, and in that dis- churches. There are several manufactance overcomes a descent of twenty- tories of different kinds, and the poputwo and a half feet, by five locks. I lation amounts to about two thousand. The MIedical Institute at Louisville is The Stateprison.- -The following exa very important institution, founded in tracts from a late reeort of the officers 1837, with six professors, and about two will affiord the reader correct ideas of hundred and fifty students. The lec- the condition and prospects of this imtures commence on the first Monday in i portant institution:November. " Ve have availed ourselves of every The Kentucky Historical society has | possible means in our power to carry a considerable library with numerous out the wishes of the legislature, and of manuscripts. The Merchants' library every true philanthropist, in regard to contains 8,500 volumes. The Agricul- the moral and religious instruction of tural and Horticultllral society has been this unfortunate portion of our race; founded within a few vears. and we most heartily acknowledge that CGmmunication is daily had by steam- it is a source of much gratification to boats with Cincinnati, Maysville, Guy- us, to see the manifest disposition on andotte (Virginia), WVheeling, and Pitts- the part of nearly all the prisoners to burg, up the Ohio; and with St. Louis, conform to law and good morals, subNewOrleans, andtheilltermediate places I mitting to the laws of the prison with below. Stagecoaches go daily for MSlave- I that character of sublmissiveness which ville via Frankfort and Lexington, for ought to be gratifying to every true lover Cincinnati, for St. Louis through New of man. Albany (Indiana), for Vincennes, for "We look forward with pleasure to Nashville, &c. a day early in next season, when we FRANKFORT, the capital of the state, will be prepared with a suitable school-! is twenty-two miles west-northwest fiom room and chapel,. where we can carry ii Lexington, fifty-one east from Louisville, on the work of moral and religious inone hundred and two south-southwest struction more per-fectly, and where I from Cincinnati. It stands on the rigrht those ministers of the different denomibank of Kentucky river, sixty miles from nations who have labored with us can the Ohio, on a level, elevated piece of ble rendered more comfortable than we ground, nearly two hundred feet above have been able to make them heetoI the neighboring surface. The river is fiore, while they further aid us in the I subject to great and sudden floods; be- most pleasant part of our duties; arind ing- comprised in a narrow channel, it although a fair proportion of our best I sometimes swells in a short time to a energies have been constantly engaged 1 height of sixty feet above its ordinary in endeavorilg to promote the moral level. The iiver divides the town into and religious interests of the prisoners, two parts. one called Frankfort, and the yet, for want of suitable buildings and ] other South Frankfort. other means, we have not been able to Phe Statehouse has a fine portico, in, do what we would wish; but sufficient f DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 485 provision having been ma(le, we most fees, for safe-keeping of slaves, 195 00; confidently promise to present to your by batrter (manufactured( articles given in honorable body, at the meeting of your exchange), 6,022 03: total, $51,114 81. next session, their condition in a much " The number of prisoners in confinemore favorable light. Ministers of the ment on the first day of December, 1845, different denominations of our town and was 176; received into the prison fiom its vicinity, generally, have contributed I 1st December, 1845, to 1st December, l to aid us in advising the prisoner for 1846, 71: total, 247. his good, to whom we feel thankfill. "The number dIscharged during the The disbursements for the year past same time were: by expiration of senvWC''e as follows: for hemp, iron, lurm- tence, 32; by pardon of Governor Owsbet, leather, &c., $29,375 02; victualing ley, 22; restoration to rights of citizenprisoners, 5,719 57; clothes and bed- ship by pardon of the governor, one day ding for prisoners, 1,281 63; wood and I previous to expiration of sentence, 3; coal for engine, blacksmith shop, &c., by death, 2; escaping, 1: total, 60. 2,473 74; wagons, haulingf hemp, stone, "Leaving in confinement, on 1st Delumber, wood, &c., 1,500 56; pay of of- cember, 1846, 187. Of this number, ficers, physicians, and( guaids, 4,387 35; there were 166 white male, and 21 colcash paid to prisoners ($5 each), as di- ored males. rected by law, 285 00; to,ls and imple- "The ci'imes for which they were conments of trade for workshops, 966 41; victed were as follows: for manslaughbrick and lumber for new buildings, 388 ter, 13; burglary, 9; larceny, 72; horse24; cash paid town of Frankfort, water stealing, 32; intent to kill 4; assisting privilege for use of engine, and repairs slaves to run away, 8; felony, 12; pIasof pipe, 68 70; travelling expenses to sing counterfeit money, 13; forgery, 3; I various points, including trip east, on highway robbery, 4; arson, 3; counterbusiness of the institution, 227 55; cash feiting, 3; peljury, 3; bigamy, 2; rape, paid ferriage and turnpike for wagons, 2; mailrobbery, 1; poisoning, 1; slavehauling stone, hemp, &c., 176 02; medi- stealing, 1; mayhem, 1. cines and medical instruments for use "The terms of their sentences were: of prison-hospital, 60 69; rewards and for 40 years, 3; 22 years, 1; 15 years, expenses incident to arrest and return 1; 12 years, 1.; 10 years, 15; 9 years, of escaped convicts, 83 45; lot pur- 2; 8 years, 7; 7 years, 10; 62 years, 1 chased for extension of prison-wall, as 6.years, 10; 5~ years, 1; 5 years, 11; authorized by act of assembly, 2,400; 4~ years, 2; 4 years, 38; 31 years, 1: cash paid stonemasons engaged in the 3 years 4 months, 1; 3 years, 33; 2~ elrection of prison-wall, 836 63; moral years, 2; 2 years, 25; 1 year 10 months, and religious instruction, 237 38; sta- 1; 1 year 6 months, 1; 1 year 1 day, tionery for use of office, 52 20; print- 1; 1 year, 19. ing office-blanks, ad(vertisements, &c., 44 " Education.-Superior, or those who 37; postage, letters sent and received have a classical or scientific education, on business of institution, 9 05; tobac- 3; good, or those who have received a co for use of prisoners, as directed by general English education, 20; common, law, 166 25; two yoke of oxen pul- or those who can read, write, and cipher, chased for use of prison, 75 00: total, 49; poor, or those who can only spell $-51,114 81. and read, 53; none, or those who are " The receipts were as follows: By entirely destitute of education, 62. Craig and Henry, advanced for iiistitu- t" Ag es.-From 15 to 20 years, 20; 20 tion, $2,311 20; cash received for the to 30, 87; 30 to 40, 44; 40 to 50, 19; sale of bagging and baled hemp, and for 50 to 60, 14; 60 to 70, 2; 70 to 80, 1. th- manufacture of bagging, 30,299 11; "Previous Habits.- Habitually in-! cash received for the sale of articles at temperate, 62; occasionally intemperprison, 6,287 47; cash loared by the ate, 95; temperate, 30. i state, per act approved February 23, "Married, 75; single, 96; widowers, 1846, 6,000; cash received for lock-up 11; separated, 5. Total, 187.,Ji 486 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. ---- - I _________ _ - ----- _ — _ _! ~~ I_. —--------— ~Blannerhasset's Island. bula and the Shenango branch ofga, east and, southeast by wOhio c-rii er, which separates it fr-om Virginia, south and southwest by the satne stat- stream, which there separates it from Kentucky, west byndi ana and northwest by Michigan. The noble river from which the state has deiv noth itbys name, extends along its boundary for 440 milese, atviz., from the mouthna of the Beaver to that of the Great Miami, hand its coast o the s lanke i ula and the enango branch of Big Beaver, southwest by westate haswould cross the summit level of the Ohio canal and the ridge dividing the waterns flowing intodaly Lake Erie from those flowing north into the Ohio. The northern division of the Minortheast, to eighty miles in the northwest, and contains and its oast one fourthe lake isthe whole area. The southern declivity is much more gentle; while outline north hais 933 miles, andesent of 405 feet, that of the milesouth is only 509 in a mean breadth00,000 of 247statute acres.miles, thbeing only two feet per mile iennsylvania, at a point between the sources of the Ashta-tead of tirteen. Thebula and southern division might rather be regarded as originally a plain, across the grounds near the Ohio river which appear like a range of hills when viewed from the DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 487 south, are only the declivity of the broad ties offered to navigation, afford opportable-land there broken down. The tunities to many parts of it to communisouth slope before spoken of, properly cate with markets. belongs only to the valleys of the The soil of Ohio is in general very streams flowing in that direction into fertile; and the productions are afforded the Ohio. These streams are generally in immense quantities. These are wheat, free fiom falls, except the Muskingum rye, oats, Indian corn, live stock, and and a few others; but those which flow salted meat. Indian corn ripens in all into Lake Erie, passing down a ridge parts, and apples and peaches flourish about eight hundred feet high, are too well, as do nectarines, cherries, plums, much broken for navigation. Some of grapes, and berries of all kinds. Flint them make that descent within five says Ohio "is the appropriate empire miles. This ridge is visible to a person of Pomona." sailing up the coast, and is seen gradu- The principal tributaries of the Ohio ally receding inland until it disappears flowing in this state are Muskingum, in the distance near Sandusky. Hockhocking, Scioto, and Great and The course of the Ohio forms nearly Little Miami. Their head streams ina perfect semlicircle along the outline of terlock with those running into Lake the state. If one point of the dividers Erie: the Ashtabula, Grand, Cuyahoga, be placed on the map at Worthington, Huron, Sandusky, and Maumee. Nunine miles north of Columbus, and the merous smaller streams are omitted in other at the mouth of Big Sandy river, this enumeration. it will sweep round on or very near The Ohio canal extends from Clevethe course of' the great river. Like its land, on Lake Erie, up the valley of the tributaries, it flows through a. deep chan- Cuyahoga south, about thirty miles, crosnel, cut down below the original plain. ses Portage summit to the Muskingum The breadth of this valley varies, above or Tuscarawas river, whose valley it Louisville, from one to two miles, and follows to Dresden, within fourteen its temperature is so much warmer than miles of Zanesville, and then, in a souththat of the neighboring high land, that western direction, crosses the ridge to vegetation is about six weeks earlier in the Scioto, twelve miles south of Columthe spring; but the cold is greater i'n bus, then south down the valley to Cirwinter. cleville, Chillicothe, Piketon, and PortsOn account of its rapid increase in mouth, where it enters the Ohio, being population, and the general extension three hundred and six miles long. of the improvements of civilization, as The Miami canal extends from Cinwell as the intelligence, industry, and cinnati north through the Great Miami thrift, of its inhabitants, the state of valley, through Hamilton, Middletown, Ohio is inferior to no other country of Franklin, and MIiamisburg, to Dayton, equal extent. Indeed, it may be safely a distance of sixty-sevenr miles. asserted, that none has been equally The population, in 1800, was 45,365; listinguished in all the points we have in 1810, 230,760; in 1820, 581,434; enumerated. in 1830, 935, 884; in 1840, 1,519,467; In consequence of a singular and pe- I and in 1850, 1,977,031. culiarly favorable concurrence of events The original constitution of Ohio was and circumstances, the energy of our, formed at Chillicothe, in 1S02, and connation here found an opportunity to dis- tinued in opetration until 1851, when a play itself, while in its early youth; and new constitution was framed at Columthe results show something of the ten- bus, by a convention, March 10th, and dencies and power of the principles and adopted by the people, June 17th, 1851. habits implanted by our ancestors, when By this constitution, the senaters and left at liberty to develop themselves. representatives are elected biennially, The surface, soil, and climate of Ohio and meet at Columbus on the first Monare all highly favorable to agriculture; day of January following and her situation, with the natural facili- The senate consists of thirty-five memK _ 488 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. )ers chosen by single districts, except the state, exceeding in theo aggregate the first, the county of Hamilton, which $750,000. The credit of the state shall is entitled to three senators. The whole neither be given nor loaned to any innumbers of representatives is one hun- dividual association or corporation whatdred, who are apportioned among the ever, nor shall the state hereafter, become several counties by a plan laid down in a joint owner or stockholler in any cornthe constitution, on the basis of popula- pany or association. The general astion, according to the federal census, or sembly shall never authorize any county, such other mode as the general assembly citV, town, or township, by vote of its may direct, once in every ten years, citizens, or otherwise, to become a stockwhich is to continue for the ten years holder in any joint-stock clinpany, cornext succeeding such apportionment. poration, or association whatever: or to The executive department consists of raise money for, or loan its credit to, or a governor, lieutenant-governor (who is ini aid of, any such company, corporation, president of the senate), secretary of or as.zittion. The state shall cever state, auditor, treasurer, and an attorney- contract any debt for purposes of intergeneral, who are chosen by the people Inal improvement. The general assemat the biennial election, on the second bly shall pass no special act conferring Tuesday in October. These officers corporate powers; corporations may be hold their offices for two years, except formed under general laws, subject to the auditor whose term is four years. alteration or repeal. Stockholders in The respective terms commence onl the corporations are individually liable for second Monday in January. The board all dues therefiom over an(l above their of public works, consisting of three mem- stcck to a furthe' sum equal in amount bers, is elected by the people, one an- to such stock. No act authorizing assonually for the term of three years. ciations with banking powers shall take The judicial power is vested in a su- effect until it shall be submitted to, and preme court, in district courts, courts of approved by, the people at a general common pleas, courts of probate, justices election. Lotteries amtl the sale of lotof the peace, and in such other courts, tery tickets are for ever pl)olhibited. No inferior to the supreme court, as the license to traffic in intoxicatinig liquors general assembly may establish; the five shall hereafter be granted in the state. aupreme court judges hold their office HISTORY.-The lime when the settlefive years, the term of one of the judges ment of the state of Ohio commenced, was expiring annually. There are nine that when the close of the revolutionary judges of the common pleas, elected by war promised permanent peace and sedistricts for five years. A judge of pro- curity, even to that then distant and wild bate court is elected in each county for portion of (uiU' territory. A considerable tiree years; a competent number of part of the territory had been g-ranted to justices of the peace in each township the soldiers newly disbandedl(; and tracts are elected for the same term. All these of considerable extent to persons who had elections are by the people. been sufferers from the destructive maThe elective franchise is enjoyed by Iauding incursions of the enemy, in the every white male citizen of the United course of the war, when several ConStates, of the age of twenty-one years, necticut t(;wis were reduced to ashes. who shall have been a resident of the The Connecticut claim was founded state one year next preceding the elec- on the royal charter of the c(olo(ny, which, tion, and of the county, township, or after fixing the northern and southern ward, in which he resides, such time as boundaries of Connecticut, carried them may be provided by law. All elections through to the Pacific ocean. Under are by ballot. No person in the military, this authority, Connecticut had settled marine, or naval service of the United the Wyoming valley in Pennsylvania, States, shall by being stationed within and long exercised jurisdiction over it, the state, be considered a resident. but finally abandoned it, together with No new debts may be contracted by all other parts of the tract thus conceded DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OH0IO. 489 to her, in consideration of a valuable position, and pursued four miles, with portion of Ohio, afterward called New the loss of about 900 men in killed, Connecticut, or the Connecticut Re- wounded, and missing. The following serve. It was from that part of the year, the Indians murdered several of' present state of Ohio that the legislature the commissioners sent by the United of Connecticut gave the "fire lands," as States government to treat for peace. they were termed, to the sufferers above Fort Harmer was first occupied in referred to. 17S5 by a part of the first regiment of Under the several inducements above United States troops, under Major John I enumerated, the settlement of Ohio be- Doughty, and named after their military gan in the year 17SS, since which, its commander. In the same year, Gen. increase in population and wealth has'Benjamin Tupper, ofChesterfield, Mass., been such as may well astonish the was appointed surveyor, under the surworld, while it affords reason for grati- veyor-general of that state, to begin the tude, as well as for self-conglatulation, survey of the country northwest of the not only to its inhabitants, but to all Ohio, and went that year as far as Pittsthose who feel a becoming interest in the burgh. The survey was postponed by solid growth of our common country. the hostile movements of the Indiais. Early Surveys.-The Great Miami In the following year, he and General river was surveyed for one hundred Israel Putnam (the celebrated revolumiles, in 1751, by Christopher Gist, i tionary officer) published an invitation agent of the old English Ohio company; to disbanded soldiers. who had received and the English had a fort, or trading- deeds of land in Ohio in payment of post, on Loramie's creek, forty-seven their services, to lproceed with them to miles north of Drayton, which was the Ohio region. " The Ohio Company" taken by the French. In 177S, the was formed, at their proposition; and, Miami valleys were examined by Daniel on the 7th of April, 17S8, Gen. Putnam Boone, during his captivity, and by landed at the mouth of the Muskingum, Bowman and Clark, on their military with a party of laborers and artificers, excursions. In 1784,'5, and'6, the In- and began to make preparations for the dians ceded the regions of the AMuskin- first settlement designed by that associgum, Scioto, and Miamis, and the set- ation, at Marietta. tlement was immediately commenced. At that period, the Shawnees were Benjamin Stiles, of Redstone (now inhabitants of a large part of the best Brownville), Pa., first proposed to John land in the bounds of the present state,I Cleves Symmes, of New Jersey, the especially the valleys of Scioto, Miami, joint purchase of a large tract of land and Wabash. Their principal chief was in Ohio, which was afterward made by Cornstalk, who had distinguished himself the latter for himself, and embraced byhis faithfulness to our countrymen, by nearly 600,000 acres. Portions having his successful opposition to the league been sold, parties of emigrants left New formed against them by the nations beYork and New Jersey in 1788. yond to assist the British in the war. Harmer's Expedition.-In 1790, near- In 1794, General TVayne, after many ly twenty persons were killed by the delays, and the erection of several forts, Indians near Cincinnati; and in the au- routed a large force of Indians and Canatumn General 1larmer proceeded against dians near Fort Deposite, and after dethe savage enemy, with 320 regulars, stroying the various villages and posi833 Kentucky and Pennsylvania militia, tions of the enemy along the Miami, and 600 volunteers. After a severe loss brought them to consent to a treaty of in an ambush, he returned without ac- peace, which was concluded August 3d, complishing anything important. In 1795. 1791, General St. Clair, with a force of The next settlement after that at Ma2,300 men, was attacked in his camp, rietta, was made at Columbia, six miles fifty miles from the Miami villages, and above Cincinnati, Nov. 16, 17S9, by Maafter a severe battle, driven from his jor Stiles and twenty-five others, chiefly 490 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. from Redstone, as before mentioned, The first resolution al favor of a caand partly from New York and New nal, was introduced into the legislature Jersey, under Judge Symmes. This in 1817; and in 1S25 an act was passed colony was formed under circumstances "to provide for the internal improveof peculiar danger, the Inaians being ment of the state by navigable canals." numerous and hostile around them, so In that year, also, a general system for that the settlers were compelled to take common schools was adopted, which was turns as laborers and sentinels, while followed by another in 1829, laying a erecting a block house. tax, for their support, of three fourths The third settlement was made by of a mill on the dollar, and authorizing Frenchmen, at Gallipolis, in 1791. They householders to lay taxes for certain had been induced to come from France school purposes, in their districts. None by the "Scioto Land Company," so but negroes and mulattoes are excluded called, an association of men who hoped from the schools. to obtain from Congress a large grant Ohio presents all varieties of surface, of land, but were unsuccessful. Many in different parts, except the mountainof the settlers afterward dispersed, but ous. The most hilly part is in the the remainder at length obtained a grant southeast, on the Ohio. Along that of 24,000 acres, in the southeast part stream and its tributaries are many of Scioto county, on the Ohio. The tracts of level meadows, of the finest tract is now called the French grant. soil. Some of the largest and richest The fourth settlement was at Cleve- of these are watered by the Miamis. land, on Lake Erie, in 1796. Another Prairies, or meadows of a particular was made at Conneaut, the same yea- kind, are found in several parts of the Both these were made by emigrants firom state, especially near the sources of the the eastern states. 1Vuskingum, Scioto, and the AMiamis. Settlers afterward came in, in great They are almost destitute of timber, and numbers, from different parts of the some are marshy, others high and poor, country, and from several parts of Eu- while most of them are covered with rope. high, coarse grass. The first territorial legislature met at Bituminous coal abounds in sorme cf Cincinnati, Sept. 24, 1799, whose ju- the eastern parts of the state, and salt risdiction extended to all the territory springs and iron mines are also found northwest of the Ohio. Gen. WVm. Henry in several counties. There is usually Harrison was the first delegate to Con- good sleighing for several weeks. in the gress. In 1802, Nov. 1, the conven- northern part of the state, along Lake tion to form a state constitution assem- Erie. The winds are generally from bled at Chlilicothe, which was formed the west and southwest. and adopted in three weeks, and remain- There were found no signs of Indian ed till 1851, though never formally rati- settlements in the limits of the state, fled by the people. One of the provis- though an ancient trail, or Indian road, ions of the constitution, in compliance came down and crossed the Ohio river, with a suggestion made by Congress,. at the mouth of the Licking, and led cu, was, that section sixteen of every townl- through the Cumberland gap, being the ship (or a substitute where that was not grand route of travel through the vast disposable) should be reserved for the western forest, between the north and support of public schools. The first | the south. The preceding race, howgeneral assembly of the state met at ever, of whom so little is known, had Chilicothe, March 1, 1803. The sec- left very interesting traces on the very ond, the same year, passed a law allow- site now occupied by Cincinnati, which ing aliens to hold land. have been obliterated. A number of' The victory of Tippecanoe, by Gen. considerable works, of different forms, Harrison, was gained in 1811. The extended between Ludlow and Mound first steamboat voyage was made that streets, and between Third and Noryear from Pittsburgh to New Orleans. thern row. These were, first, an oval f'D~I ICI u~/ tl L'/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~i 492 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. embankment, 830 feet by 730, and from curious and wonderful collections of [ 3 to 7 feet high, with an eastern open- ancient works in the state. The streets ing of 90 feqt. It was from 30 to 40 of the town are laid out in curves, corfeet wide at the base, and had evidently responding with the two concentric cilrbeen much higher. A raised path led cles of a fine, large, ancient work in from near the opening to the top of a which it is situated. The interior cirflat mound, at some distance beyond cle is 47 rods in diameter, and distant Main street. A similar work, and a from the outer 3 rods, with a ditch be- ij small circular one, may also be enumer- tween them. The outer wall was of ated; but these were inferior to another clay, which must have been brotught oval, 760 feet by 40, lying nearly north from a distance, and was used to lake and soijth, with a southern opening, be- bricks in building the town. There was yond which was a pit 50 feet wide and but one entrance through the walls, antd 12 feet in depth. At the corner of I that led into a large square, which had Fifth and Mound streets was a mound, seven other openings. The walls were 35 feet high, and several smaller else- 20 feet high. Several snmaller circles, where, in some of which were found &c., existed in the vicinity. pottery, various shells, &c. "Fifty-five years ago," said General The mounds in Ohio fonn part of the Harrison, in his discourse before the long chain which extends from the mid- historical society of Ohio, "there was die of New York, southwesterly to the not a Christian inhabitant within the Mississippi, and down its course, as is bounds which now comprise the state of said by some, to Mexico. They are sup- Ohio; and if, a few years anterior to that posed by some writers to mark the prog- period, a traveller had been passing ress of a numerous and partially civi- down the magnificent river which forms lized people, on their gradual retreat our southern boundary, he might inot before powerful enemies. Amid abund- have seen, in its whole course of eleven ant materials for general conjectures, hundred miles, a single human being, and with few hints of ai ything positive, certainly not a habitation, nor the yesit is not surprising that a variety of tige of one, calculated for the residence theories should have been proposed, to of man. He might, indeed, have seen account for their existence. indications that it was not always thus. One cause of this variety of opinions His eye might have rested on some stuhas been the mistakes made by persons pendous mound, or lengthened lines of who have investigated the subject too ramparts, and traverses of earth, still of hastily. The Grave Creek mound, four- considerable elevation, which proved teen miles below Wheeling, about 70 that the countryhad once been possessed feet high, and 33 rods in circumference I by a numerous and laborious people. at the base, is one of the largest known But he would have seen, also, indubitable to be wholly of artificial origin. A shaft evidences that centuries had passed away was sunk from the top to the bottom, since these remains had been occupied which e xposed to view two rude tombs, by those for whose use they had been one a few feet above the other, and each reared." containing the remains of a human skel- He concluded that their departure eton, several flat stones, and parts of must have been a matter' of necessity; decayed logs, with a number of imple- for no people would willingly have ments, or weapons, and ornaments, like abandoned sucl a country, after a long those often discovered in other mounds. residence, and the labor they had beA small stone, with an inscription re- stowed upon it, u less, like the Hesembling Runic and some other ancient brews, they fled from a tyrant, or unalphabets, said to have been taken firom feeling taskmasters. the place, has recently excited the curi- " If they had been made to yield to a osity of the learned in Europe, as well more numerous, or more gallant people, as in America. what country had received the fugitives? At Circleville existed one of the most and what has become of the conquer-.1' f= — ~ —; --— ~ -tr c= = —------- A- -iz- _, —i_~ -- - -- - —;I= -;=- --- -- *-= =~__ __ n I-~ —-- Id-~- sWIPB~& -- - -— w~w~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ r ~~~C-; ~ ~ e ofI Cicinaiin180 494 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. ors? Had they, too, been forced to fly anees, Delawares, a remnant of the Mobefore a new swarm from some northern hegans (who had united themselves to or southern hive?" What was their the Delawares), and a band of the Ottofate? and why has so large a portion ef was. "There may also have been some country, so beautiful, inviting, abound- bands from the Senecas and Tuscaroras ing in all that is desirable, been left to remaining in the northern part of the the wild beasts, or for distant tribes of state. But, whether resident or not, the savages to mingle in mortal conflicts country, for some distance beyond the We learn from the extensive country, Pennsylvania line, certainly belonged to covered by their remains, that they were them." As has been before remarked, a numerous agricultural people, congre- however, the red men appear to have had gated in considerable cities, but in pos- no permanent settlements in any part of session of no domestic animals. It this extensive region, at least in a long seems probable, if not certain, that they course of time, as none of the usual or possessed a national religion, "in the supposable marks of their fixed resicelebration of which, all that was pom- dence were perceptible. pous, gorg3ous, and imposing, that a How difibrent is now the aspect of semi-barbarous nation could devise, was the country! Flourishing villages and brought into occasional display; that scattered farmhouses on every side, there were a numerous priesthood, and amid fields of corn, sometimes extendaltars, often smoking with hecatombs of ing farther than the compass of vision; victims." They had made much prog- large towns and cities at the principal ress in the art of building; their habita- exits of trade, extending their crowded tions were probably small, inconvenient, streets along the shores of the rivers, and composed of slight and perishable and crowning the neighboring eminences materials, as few remains of them'are to with villas; houses for the education of be discovered. the young,'and for the worship of God, General Harrison concluded that they sprinkled over every part of the terriwere assailed both from the north and tory; and steam laboring with all its the south, receded from both directions, power to bear rich fieights over the land and made their last effort at resistance, and the water! on the banks of the Ohio. There are 87 counties, 784 townThe engineers who directed the exe- plats, 1010 postoffices, 5 incorporated cution of the Miami works, he says, cities, 45 chartered railroad companies, must have known the importance of flank about 30 canal companies, 30 banking defences; and, "if their bastions areI companies, 20 colleges and principal not as perfect, as to form, as those which seminaries, an asylum for lunatics, one are in use in modern engineering, their for th:e deaf and dumb' and another for position, as well as that of the long line the blind, and a complete system of comof curtains, are precisely as they should mon schools. What is, perhaps, of be." equal importance, Sunday-schools are I He denies the occupation of the banks universally established, as in most other of the Ohio for centuries before its dis- parts of our country, every week, and covery by Europeans, but thinks there often every day, bringing the minds of are indubitable marks of its haying been the old and the young to the mutual thickly inhabited by a race of men in- study of the word of God, and practiferior and subsequent to the authors of cally training the people to the obserthe great works. Pottery, pipes, stone vance of the Sabbath, its occupation in hatchets, and other articles, are found work appropriate to its institution, and in great abundance, inferior in work- training the people to the important manship to those of the former people. duty of teaching, under circumstances The tribes within the bounds of this most favorable to its success. state, when the white settlements com- The population in 1790 was about menced, as General Harrison informs 3,000; in 1850,1,977,031, above65,000 us, were the Wyandots, Miamis, Shaw- per cent. -= —~I - --------- 1 - —-- —;-= -------— =1; -= —-=___ _ —,,;.._..,1--- -=-:;=--; —-_-1:I_:__r~;;- _~L_;,I--5-"-'--T —-— =-i --—;-_-:=i7ZI —-1; - —r il- —--- I;= —— ~~- —T=7- L-;_;=L —-;;=- —--_;_-__;-_ I-; —----------------- -----------— ~- —- -— - - i-i —— 7~ ;-;- —---ZI —-I--L-=--F _T;LI=_L=-=-LLI-; — —— :_2:;;=;;-= —- —r_,,_=.-Sc I; —-— c —— —=-r=; --— = —----- 1= =-L - -— =---L+-3-= — = —--— = —= —-IL` =-- —----r-_-= —=, —; —-: —-— —' —--- —- I-_==Li----'i —I____C_____F '=_=~=;== -, --—;-- —-— ISi; i —-:C —-— -=I ".e-p L'r; Tii "p;,, ~-~~ i,, E I-~ 1.,: I I:::I::Fiillll III I i Illao .an(y+pa;-s~s;; -— i9 e~lmmnmrT;;lullLylgyyllt, I~ ":.:: ii, ill 1~11111111 1)11 11111 1,((:I II II II II ~~~.I II ~II,~~~, I~~~J ~Ili 1111 III III'I,,,ll,, I( ISimll )1II1I ~~ ~~~)~II~~~~ IUI/RYII/IIIIII 11111]11111 )1111 III ~ I ~ ~I I I I ) 111 11111111 111 "''ii;;;; OiBiiBI1?1111 rlllliilE!llllls[l I, II!III!il~l~II!III!!Jilil;' I r~~~ ~~rr il'1(C -- i~ —-- ---- -----—.... —-;.._C-L —T_=._==- —;_- —------------- - -- - --- ---- ___75g~_-_;___-_~_____=;. —: -ild-PIC —ICI- -;~ _ 1=---7i= —--— =;== —= --~ — —- -------------- - —_ —_i -~Li_- —=_. iLL__L=__...- -=_IS —-:; —-—.-=_ _il= -Cc\c' —~h, WH.BROYr. View of Cincinnnti, from the aiver. 496 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. TIhe Connecticut Reserve is one of the Cincinnati stands near the hea(l of most flourishing parts of the state. It one of the largest and most fertile of tle contains the seven northeastern counties, valleys watered by the Ohio. It is 120 miles east and west, and 52 north twelve miles in circumference, and enand south, with four millions of' acres, closed by hills of moderate elevation, and was settled chiefly firom Connecticut which afford a succession of varied and and Massachusetts. pleasing scenes, though the approach to A striking view of the rapid and solid the city by water affords no striking growth of Ohio is presented by the fol- view. lowing statistics:- The climate is very varial-e, and the The first permanent settlement was cold in winter severe, but Cincinnati is made in 1788, and the following are a healthy city. The want of pavements among the returns made to the legisla- is a serious inconvenience in wet weathture forty years afterward, in 1836: er, although the sloping ground on which Land for taxation, 16,460,029 acres; the city is built is favorable to draining. value of the above, exclusive of town Geoloy. —Thlle rocks at Cincinnati property, $55,242,254; value of the town are mountain limestone, below which, as property, excepted, $16,906,854; houses, elsewhere, are found beds of coal. They 280,562; cattle, 402,376; merchants' are, however, at a considerable distance capital, $8,899,994; pleasure-carriages, beneath. The vicinity appears to have 2,986. The taxes on the above, foir been once a plain, 600 feet above the state, county, town, and road pi..'poses, river at low water, and 1200 above the were 8995,376. The revenue of the Atlantic, but cut down by streams, ill state that year, $301,057. As early as the course of ages, which expose alter1837, there were 450 miles of navigable nate strata of blue clay, marl, and fossilcanals, with expectation of 1,000 by iferous limestone, nearly pure, and of a 1839. bluish color.' At different elevations, CINCINNATI. in alluvial deposites left by the streams, at different ages, in their folmer beds, Cincinnati is the largest city in the are found old trees, and the remains of westernl states, and enjoys a situation elephants. On the larger streams are distinguished by several advantages, on fine bottom lands, or meadows, of a very tile north bank of the Ohio river, which rich soil, of an amber color, which, in there rises, with a bold, but not too ab- floods, tinges the river. WVells are rupt ascent, to the height of 108 feet sometimes filled with carbonic acid gas, above low-water mark, affording a coin- or choke-damp, which proceeds firom the venlient and commanding elevation to limestone. Numerous marine fossils the upper streets. The latitude of the abound in the rocks. city is 390 6' 30" north, and the loiigi- Railroads and canals, as well as steamtude, 70 24' 45" west. It stands half boats, greatly subserve the business of way between the head of the Ohio, at Cincinnati. Ill 1841, there were estiPittsburlgh, and its confluence with thle mated to be 1,125 miles of these three Mississippi, at Cairo, being 465 miles kinds of routes concentrating at this distant from each, measuring the course city, to cost, when completed, twelve of the stream. From the following millions of dollars. cities the distances by the roads are as Cincinnati, notwithstanding its presfollows: Indianapolis 120, Columbus ent importance, ald the great advantages 115, Lexington 90, Nashville 270, Pitts- of its position, was not occupied until burgh 298. By the steamboat routes it most of the other principal points on the is 198 miles from Louisville, 655 firom western rivers had been planted with St. Louis, 1335 from Natchez, 1631 from towns. New Orleans. By the stage routes, The first surveys were begun by Mr. Washiugton is 502 miles, Baltimore 518, Filson in 1788; but he soon disappeared and Philadelphia 617. By the lakes, in the woods, and was never seen again. the distance to New York is 650 miles. Israel Ludlow, Robert Patterson, and ,*u!puuI!pBUUUTou!3 ___________________________________ ______._________ ____________________________ -i ""1'" "'.~""' 11111 — ~~ ~-~ ~IT DIVO:~ 111 IOOITREU NEil;l 498 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. Mathias Denman, occupied a part of the us best acquainted with their energy and land at the close of that year and the success may compare this print and the next, and they gave the place the name frontispiece, with astonishment. The of Losantiville, which was fortunately particulars of the changes which have soon changed to that which it still bears. taken place between 1800 and the piesJan. 7, 1789, thirty men drew lots for ent time, we need not repeat; but we portions of the land, but about a year will refer the reader to the preceding afterward, Joel Williams purchased two pages, where they are recorded. thirds of the town. The original price Cincinnati in 1848.-The transition of the whole was $500, in continental from the view on page 493, to the one certificates, then worth only five shil- depicted on p. 495, seemslike an illusion. lings on the pound. In June, 1789, Such a growth, in less than half a cenFort Washington was erected by Major tury, appears impossible. Cities have Doughty, with forty men, and consisted indeed been suddenly erected by monof four blockhouses, with a stockade and archs who had absolute power over their barracks. In 1790, General Arthur St. subjects; but these changes have been Clair arrived, as governor of the "terri- produced by the spontaneous labtors of tory northwest of the Ohio." individuals. The growth of the place "I When I first saw the upper plain on has been natural, and the impulse will which Cincinnati stands," says General be continued. The noble display of Harrison, "it was literally covered with steamboats', drawn up in line, is still inlow lines of embankments. I had the ferior to what might actually be made; honor to attend General Wayne two and the long ranges of stores in fiont, years afterward, ill an excursion to ex- as well as the crowded buildings'beyond, amine them. The number and variety give but an imperfect idea of their real of figures in which the lines were drawn numbers. were almost endless. The cause I take The streets of Cincinnati are generto have been continued cultivation; and ally wide, straight, and well-built. They the probability is, that the people were cross at right angles, and seven of them the conquerors of the original posses- are sixty-six feet in breadth. The spaces sors." enclosed between them are 396 feet Judge Burnet says, that when he went square; and one of these is appropriatedl to Ohio, in 1796, the country was liter- to public buildings and public purposes. ally a wilderness. The entire popula- A portion of another is also devoted to tion between Pennsylvania and the Mis- the same use. Main street, Broadway, sissippi, firom the Ohio to the lakes, was and Fourth streets, are the finest streets; fifteen thousand. Cincinnati was a small but Pearl street, between MTarket and village of log-cabins, including, perhaps, Walnut, has a fine block of.-liildings, a. dozen of frame houses, with stone in a uniform style, terminated by a large chimneys, most of them unfinished. Not hotel. a brick had oeen seen in the place. T7ie Landing-Place. See page 497.Cincinnati in 1800.-This view of our This nearer view of the river's side will western inland emporium, while in its give a more just idea of the spacious infancy, possesses a great degree of in- street which borders the shore, and of terest. See page 493. How much more the size of the buildings, though it shows cheerful to the eye than the sight of but a small part oi the front line of the many an ancient European city, in which city. The reader will readily perceive, no trace of improvement is visible, and that the landing-place is convenient, as where no thought of enterprise is found! it extends far along the bank, up and In our western towns, industry, directed down the river. It is indeed a landingby intelligence, and stimulated by hope, place well adapted to the extensive and displays itself in prodigies, and strides increasing trade of this commercial meon like a giant. In this city, however, tropolis of the west. if anywhere, our countrymen have sur- The principal public buildings are the 2 passed themselves; and even those of courthouse, jail, four markets (one of, S~~~~ f~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I ______ -.- /i i i New Catholic Cathedral, at C~incinnati. L:= =Ca K00 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. which is 400 feet in length), the Bazaar, dows on each side, and a portico pro-'Cincinnati college, the Catholic Athe- jected in front, with ten Corinthian colnceum, the Medical college, the Mechan- umns. The steeple, which is disproporics' institute, two theatres, two museums, tionately high, is conspicuous from a the hospital and lunatic asylum, the distance. (see engraving, p. 499.) Woodward high school, and nearly The Commercial Hospital and Lunatic thirty churches. The town is chiefly Asylum of Ohio is situated in the northbuilt of brick. western part of Cincinnati, in a retired l/anufactures.-Within a few years, and airy situation. The building is of the amount and variety of manufactures brick, with three stories and a basement, have greatly increased. The principal andcan contain 250 inmates. The poorbusiness is done in heavy iron castings, house occupies a separate part of the for steam-engines and machinery. A edifice; and there are two medical degreat deal of cabinet-work is also pro- partments. Boatmen who have paid duced, and numerous steamboats and hospital money, those who have not, and canal-boats are built every year. The the town poor, are provided for gratuiCincinnati Manufacturing Companyhave tously in this institution, by different a collection of large buildings on Deer funds. Other sick persons are admitted Creek. at two dollars a week. Great quantities of pork are prepared The House of Employment for Feand shipped at Cincinnati. In 1848, male Poor, and the Savings Bank, are not less than 500,000 hogs were killed also valuable institutions. in the city. The price was then only Benevolent Societies.-The Cincinnati about two and a half cents a pound. Total Abstinence Temperance society; One of the consequences of this busi- the Colonization society; the Ohio Antiness is the manufacture of great quan- Slavery society; the Scots' Benevolent tities of lard and oil. society; St. George's society; the CinNumerous steamboats have annually cinnati Typographical assocation; and been built at Cincinnati. In 1843 the the Hibernian Benevolent society. number was 43, whose tonnage was The Cincinnati Astronomical Society, 8,571, and cost $61S,000; in 1844, 89. organized in 1842, have an observaCanal-boats proceed from Cincinnati tory, with a large telescope, on Mount through the canal, over Lake Erie, to Adams, under the care of Professor Buffalo. Toils on the Ohio canals in Mitchells. 1850, about $800,000. The IVestern Academy of Niatural Orphazn Asylums.-There are three:- Sciences was incorporated in 1838, and 1. St. Peter's orphan asylum, man- has a valuable cabinet. aged by the sisters of charity. The Apprentices' Library was foulnded 2. St. Aloysius's orphan asylum, an- in 1821, by private contributions, and i other Roman catholic institution, for is open to all minors in the city, brought boys. up to laborious employments. 3. The Cincinnati orphan asylum, T/he Young Men's 3Mercantile Libr-arly erected by contributions of the citi- Association has its library and readinogzens. It is 64 feet by 54, four stories rooms in the Cincinnati college, which high, and cost $18,000. It stands in are open daily. It was organized in Elm street. The children are taught 1835, and chartered the following year. at a good school, and have a good libra- EDUCATION.-1L. Common Schools. — ry, and extensive playgrounds. Morals The common school system of Cincinand religion are carefully inculcated, and nati was founded in 1830-'31, and the I the future interest of the pupils provi- number of children taught is very large. ded for. The number of districts is ten, which Thle Roman Catholic Chlurch. —The are now supplied with brick schoolbuilding is of simple form, and in a neat I houses, with cupolas, and furnished with style of architecture. The walls are common apparatus, with seats for fi'om straight and smooth, with seven win- three to five hundred pupils, each, at a I"'' - - II!11? l..!!!l* It!~,, i~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ili ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~llilJ~ -I I il 1B II I II Ci'Itiii'i i 11 i ________1'! ii __ __ __ _ II iiiii i'i iI, CD I I, o~~ iIi J!I'i~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~i tt'~I'I'~ i,~ j~ I il II II I 1'~~~~~~~~'I ~-i:~ _~ J III c T~~~~~~~~~~~b~~~~~I ttIII/i"Il i,~ iHI lli~'*l N IN~I, j ja I )i Ir 1, I g~~~~~' i J!,'i i II'1'I c~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~it'lt; __ 1~ r II I~ ll il 502 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. F —- __ _____ __ ___- Kenyon College. cost of more than $100,000. They are Hills, a short distance from Cincinnati. under three boards, viz.: 1, the trus- Rev. Lyman Beecher is president. The tees; 2, the examiners; 3, the corps of course of study occupies three years, teachers. and is gratuitous, while room-rent is 2. Academies, or Classical Schools.- only $5 a year, and incidental expenses There are several in different parts of $5. This seminary enjoys a fine and the city. conspicuous situation. The building for the lodgings of tile students is of four stories and a basement, and has an Cincinnati College was chartered in entrance in the middle, with five win1818-'19, with university powers, and dows on each side of the door, and sufhas been endowed chiefly by private ficient depth to afford numerous apartcontribution. It has a building in the ments. On a line with it, at the right, middle of the city, with chymical and is a very neat edifice for the chapel and philosophical apparatus. other purposes, in simple Grecian style, St. Xavier College, a Jesuit institu- with six Doric columns supporting an tion, enjoys the privileges of a univer- architrave, forming a portico, to which sity, and has a mercantile, as well as a rises a broad range of steps. In the classical department. It has a library rear are the houses of the president and of 6,000 volumes, and a cabinet of nat- professors; and the whole is backed by ural history. The expenses are $160 a fine wood, while spacious grounds in a year, including board. front and around are laid out in yards, Woodward College was founded in walks, and gardens. 1812, by William WVoodward, one of the early settlers, who gave the land on GAMBlER. which the building is erected. Gambier is the seat of Kenyon colThe Medical College of Ohio, on Sixth lege. Connected with this are Bexley street. Students are admitted to the Hall (the principal episcopal academilectures for $15, and for $5 more to the cal and theological institutions of this hospital, which is large. part of the country), Milnor Hall (the Lane Seminary, a presbyterian theo- junior preparatory school), and Rosse logical seminary, is situated at \Valnut chapel. They are situated in the midst DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 503 of a large tract of land, belonging to the Bishop Chase, and serves both as thle diocese, in a secluded and pleasant college chapel and the parish church. place, and are under the direction of a MARiETTA. toard of trustees. In the vicinity are The situation of this village is not the bishop's residence, the president's is n o house, and the dwellings of five profes- unpleasant, lut low, yet its institutions sors, with a number of other buildings, and society have given it a distinction including famhouses, storehouses, &c. worthy of the oldest settlement in thle including farmhouses, storehouses, &c. Ken yn 7leg-This edificeis of a rstate. It is the capital of WVashington Kenyon College. —This edifice is of a county, and stands on the west bank of plain, Gothic style, built of stone, 190 the Ohio, immediately above the mouth feet in lenth and 44 in breadth, with a the Ohio, immediately aoe the mouth length and 44 in of the Muskingum. It is 61 miles spire in the centre. Funds for its erec- southeast of Zanesville, 109 southeast tion having been collected firom the con- of Columbus, 93 east by north of Chilitributions of friends in England, by cothe, and 178 from Pittsburgh. The Bishop Chase, in spite of much opposi- cothe, and from Pittsburgh. The tion, thne main building and spire were college, and several academis and finis, hed in 1828. The wings were ad- schools, give a very respectable literary finished in 1828. The wings were ado: 1. standing. Shipbuilding was formerl ded in 1834 and 1835, under the direc- was frmely carried on. tion of Bishop M'Ilvaine, by whom further subscriptions were obtained in.1833. (see engraving 5was planted the first permanent colony 3. (e engvIn o, page 502.) of civilized men within the bounds of All the buildings, with 4,000 acres of 0 1', the present state of Ohio. Here, on land surroundh*ing them, 1belong to h thhe 7th of April, 1788, landed a party institution, which affords theological instruction gratuitously, and n 1 of adventurers, with the celebrated vetstruction gratuitously, and is supported..o g ly' > lsuppoie eran, General Israel Putnam, at their chiefly by the products of the soil. The e Ter r head. The fort, erected by Uznited whole was estimated, in 1843, to be d worte fwom $17e,000 to i185,000. States' troops, had been some time conworth tfrom $175,000 to $185,000. The institution was placed in the structed, the site of which is still pointed midst of this tract of land to secure it from all exposure to intrusion. An unsettled region was selected, in the midst of the forest, and the trees have been cleared off since the commencement of the undertaking. Bexley Hall is a well-proportioned building, for the residence of the theological students of Kenyon college. It was constructed with funds raised in England by Bishop M'Ilvaine, after a plan proposed by an architect in London. It is 100 feet long and 50 deep, and affords accommodations for a large number of students. It bears the name of Lord Bexley, a distinguished and efficient friend of the institution, and well known for his enlightened and Christian zeal. Milnor IHall is the preparatory school for Kenyon college. It is of brick, and was erected by money contributed in 1833, under the direction of Bishop M'Ilvaine. I Rosse Chapel was raised in 1836, on the site of a larger one, commenced by Silver sword ornament. 504 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. Antiquities.-Near the fort, on high ground and a dry soil, was an ancient mound, which was dug away some years ago, and several curious relics were brought to light. Dr. S. P. Hildreth, of that place, published drawings and a description, from which we have derived the following particulars. The objects were buried with a dead body, the reInains of which existed. The object )f this form (see engraving, page 22), made of silver, was found lying beside the remains of the weighing three ounces. It appears to body. It is about six inches long, and have been formed of small pieces of natwo in breadth, and weighs an ounce. tive copper, pounded together, and in It is smooth, with three longitudinal the cracks are several pieces of silver, ridges, and four holes for rivets, proba- one about the size of a sixpence. bly to attach it to the scabbard. There were also found a piece of red Remains of the blade were found, but ochre, and one of iron ore, partly vitrithey were mere iron rust; a portion of fled. which was in the corroded fragments of The body lay with the back on the the copper tip. surface of the ground, and its head toward the southwest. Fragments of charcoal and mineral coal, half burnt, lay about the body; and over and around the whole was a circle of thin, flat stones, which seemed to have been laid while the fire was burning. It seemed that the mound had been formed over this tomb, by heaping up the earth from the neighborhood, being of clay, sand, and gravel. It was six feet high, and thirty or forty feet in diameter; but had been reduced in height by the action of rain, &c. The remains of the skeleton were imperfect, and some of the bones soon crumbled. It was about six feet in length; the skull was very thick. The mound was found by the first settlers covered with trees as ancient as those which grew around it, and everything indicated antiquity. Several other ancient works existed Front and back view of a boss of the sword-belt. at Marietta, from some of which, bits of pottery have been taken. Dr. Hildreth Three of these were found lying on mentions several s. cpcimens in his posthe forehead of the skull, and one of session, which appear to have lain copper, thickly plated with silver. They long exposed to the elements, oil the are plain, with a circular depression surface of the ground, yet retained their round the centre, and measure two and structure and hardness. They consist a quarter inches across. A bit of leather of clay and pounded flint. Such as are remained between two of the bosses, found on the meadows are composed, preserved by the oxyde of copper. he tells us, of clay and broken clamNear the feet of the body was found shells; and these he refers to the presa small piece of copper, of this shape, ent race of redmen. - DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 505 ASHTABULA county is remarkable for Ohio river, continues the line of navi containing the first settlements in the gation commenced by the Erie canal, Western Reserve, and, indeed, in all from the ocean to that great tributary northern Ohio. The first surveying par- of the Mississippi, which washes the ty of the Reserve landed at the mouth southern border of this state, and gives of Conneaut on the 4th of July, 1796. it its name. Immense quantities of It consisted of fifty-two persons, two of wheat and other productions are annuwhom were women; and the family of ally sent through Cleveland to New Judge James Kingsley was the first Yolk, and the exports to Canada are which ever wintered within the limits large, through the Welland canal. The of that region, now so populous. Ohio and Pennsylvania canal offers a CONNEAUT LANDING, the scene of the ready communication with Pittsburg; above events, is now an important place and railroads are proposed to extend of transhipment, and has a pier with a fi'om Cleveland to Wellsville, on the lighthouse, with a few buildings. The Ohio, and to Columbus. village, or borough, of the same name, The 3Medical College, though of restands at the distance of two miles cent establishment, is flourishing, and north. It is twenty-eight miles fiom has seven professors, with all the necesErie, Pennsylvania, and contains four sary apparatus. churches, an academy, and about 4,000 Preparations were made in 1837 for a inhabitants. marine hospital, on a tract of nine acres TOLEDO, on the left bank of Maumee, of land on the heiglhts overlooking the and on the Wabash and Erie canal, is lake. The edifice is to be of hewn stone, one hundred and thirty-four miles north- and in the Ionic style. west fiom Columbus, two hundred and The number of churches is twentyforty-six miles, by the canal, from Cin- one, and population which in 1796 was cinnati, and fifty south of Detroit. It only three, in 1840 was 6,071, and in extends along the river more than a 1850, 17,094, of whom 9,000 were namile, with two landings, the upper and tives of the United States. the lower, where most of the business is AKRON, thirty-six miles firom Clevedone, and where are many large stores land, and one hundred and ten northeast and warehouses. The view down the of Columbus, stands on the Ohio canal, at river, from the upper landing, is re- the Portage summit, and at its junction markably fine, being extensive, bounded with the Pennsylvania canal. The nuby headlands, and often enlivened with merous locks and Little Cuyahoga river numerous vessels. afford an abundance of water-power for Fort Industry was built on the site of manufacturing purposes. There are a this town, in 1800, near the present Sum- courthouse, five churches, an academy, a mit street, in which the Indian treaty number of mills and manufactories, and was held, on the fourth of July, 1805, about 4,000 inhabitants. It was laid out at which the Indian title to the " fire- in 1825, and at first the inhabitants were lands" was extinguished. The tribes all confined to South Akron, just below. represented were the Ottowa, Chippewa, It is now a very flourishing place. Pottawatomie,Wyandot, Shawnee, Mun- CUYAHOGA FALLS, five miles from Aksee, and Delaware. ron, stands on the river of the same Toledo was incorporated in 1836 as a namtie, and possesses extraordinary adcity, and has five churches, two banks, vantages for a manufacturing town, beand about 4,000 inhabitants. ing well supplied with water-power by CLEVELAND has one of the best har- the stream, which makes a descent of bors on Lake Erie, it being formed by two hundred and forty feet in a short the mouth of Cuyahoga river, and im- distance. The banks and bed of the proved by two piers, each four hundred stream are rocky, and present a wild and twenty-five yards in length, running scene, with a succession of cascades. into the lake on both sides. The Ohio Here are four churches, and 1,500 incanal, which extends from this place to I habitants. 506 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. I ELYRIA.-This town is one hundred a bank, and two academies, as well as a and thirty miles northeast of Columbus, number ofmanufactories. Stage-coaches and twenty-four west of Cleveland, and is start daily for Pittsburg, and firequently the capital of Lorain county. It stands for Washington, Cambridge, Canton,&c. on a level piece of ground, seven miles This town is ilamed friom Fort Steufiom Lake Erie, and near the junction ben, which was erected in 17t9, near of the forks of Black river, which af- the site of the present female seminary, fords abundance of water-power, by ma- in High street. It consisted of several king falls of forty feet. The population block-houses, connected by palisade fenis only about 1,500 inhabitants, but there ces. It was occupied by United States are several manufactories, six churches, infantry, command(ed by Colonel B3eatty, and an academy. The first settlement was until WVayne's victory, after which it made in 1817, by Heman Ely, of West was dismantled. Anotlieir block-house Springfield, Massachusetts. One of the stood on the opposite side of the river. presbyterian churches is of sandstone, The town was laid out in 1798, by Bezcost $8,000, and is one of the most ele- aleel Vells and James Ross, of Penngant in Ohio. sylvania. It was incorporated February OBERLIN, the seat of a collegiate in- 14, 1805. stitute, is eight miles distant fiom The situation of Steubenviile is handElyria. This institution was founded some, as it occupies an elevated plain; in 1834, and contains a male and a fe- and the neighboring country is rich and male department, with a president, fif- well cultivated, the soil being esteemed teen professors and teachers, and about the best for wheat in Ohio. The surfive hundred pupils. It is a manual-labor rounding region is also remarkably well institution. Stage-coaches run every adapted to the raising of wheat. Meriday to Elyria. The village resembles noes, were introduced here, at an early those of New England, consisting of period, by Messrs. WVells sand Dickerhouses of two stories, painted white. son; and a woollen manufactory was MANSFIELD, sixty-eight miles fiom erected in Steubenville in 1814, which Columbus, and sixty-nine fiom Sandus- led to the establishment of various manky, has an elevated situation, and con- ufactories in the place. It now contains a courthouse, seven churches, an tains five of woollen, one of paper, one academy, and a population of about of cotton, one of iron, and two of glass, 2,800. It has a daily communication besides others; and in the neighborwith Sandusky by the railroad, and hood are seven copperas manufactories. stage-coaches run to Columbus, Woos- All these employ between eight hunter, &c., three times a week. dred and one thousand hands, and conSANDUSKY CITY.-This is an impor- sume more than a million bushels of tant commercial place, standing o)n a fine coal annually. This important kind of bay, three miles fiom Lake Erie. Many fiuel is derived from mines at a short vessels enter here. The population is distance fiom the town. The populaabout 5,500, and fast increasing. It tion, itn 1810, was 800; in 1820, 2,479; contains five churches. Much valuable in 1S30, 2,964; in 1840, 4,247; and in building-stone is quarried in the vicinity. 1850, about 7,000. Railroad cars arrive and depart daily for Steubenville contains five public Cincinnati, through Clevelano, and for schools and four select ones, besides Mansfield, while stage-coaches run in a male and a female seminary. The forseveral directions. I mer is named Grove academy, and is a STEUBENVILLE stands on the western flourishing institution, containing about bank of the Ohio, twenty-two miles eighty pupils. The latter, situated on above Wheeling, and one hundred and the bank of the Ohio, was commenced in forty-seven east by north fiom Columbus, 1829, at an expense of nearly $40,000, and is regularly laid out. It is thirty- has ten or twelve teachers, and about five miles below Pittsburg, by water, one hundred and fifty pupils. The ediand contains six churches, a courthouse, fice presents a fine and imposing fiont, -—.~~~.~~~~.- ~.-~.-~.-~..-~.......~~,1 -I- - = — - ~~ —- -~~ -=~ —---- =: = --------— _ ~~~I- - - -- - -- = - X -- -- -- -- - - L ===iC a-m= — -------- -- ------ ------- - *____ ------— _- -- ~ — = _ ---- -— i _ -= —------— _ — I — ------ a_ -=. --- - -A __~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~~n _ —-— _~r- _.- = =- _ —-- — _ ------------ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~____._~_ —--- ~ -= —----- -= — _ ___, —SFS --— __- _____,_ _- _____ //z/ ~_ ____ _ __-! =~-~-_=;~~:-I; —-— I- =~- -— ~~~~~~~~~~~Ve of Stubenil- ~ ----------- =_~~ —-— ~_ 508 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. having a central building of four stories, ders the navigation to the Ohio uninterwith a piazza, and two long wings of rupted along the valley of the Muskinthree stories. A broad lawn, shaded gum; and water-power is obtained for with trees, slopes toward the river. several large flour-mills and iron-works. PORTSMOUTH, on the right bank of the The first settlement was made here in Ohio river, at the mouth of the Scioto, the year 1799, when the village was one hundred and five miles fiom Cin- laid out. The site of the town was cinnati, is at the head of the Ohio canal, granted to Ebenezer Zane (after whom and contains a population of about 5,000 it was named) as a reward for opening inhabitants. The public buildings are a bridle-road fiom Wheeling to Maysthe courthouse, a bank, and four church- ville. es. Iron ore is found in the upper parts There is a daily communication beof Scioto county, and in Lawrence tween Zanesville, and Maysville, Kencountry, and there are several mills and tucky, by stage-coaches, as well as with manufactories. Water, for the supply of Cincinnati and Wheeling, and twice a the town, is raised fiom thel river by steam. week with MIarietta and Cleveland. Steamboats depart daily for WVheel- GALLIPOLIS, ninety-seven miles fiom ing, Pittsburg, &c., and stage-coaches Cincinnati, and three hundred from go daily to Columbus. Portsmouth is Pittsburg by water, stands on the left the capital of Scioto county. A com- bank of Scioto river. It has a population pany of eastern capitalists are forming of about 2,600 inhabitants, and contains a basin in the old channel of the Scioto, three churches, a courthouse, a bank, for the building and repairing of steam- and an academy, and is the capital of boats. Gallia county. Some of the inhabitants PAINESVILLE.-This town has a high are of French descent. situation on the left side of Grand riv- CHIILICOTII.-This town, the capital er, three miles from Lake Erie, and 31 of Ross county, was formerly the seat miles from Cleveland, with a population of government of Ohio. It is situated of about 1,500. There are four churches ninety-three miles fiom Cincinnati, on and a courthouse. Stage-coaches start the left bank of the Scioto, extending daily for Buffalo. south to Point creek, a distance of about FAIRPORT, the harbor of Painesville, three fourths of a mile. It contains a is three miles farther north, nearly at the United States land-office, two banks, two mouth of the river. academies, and thirteen churches. The WILLOUGHBY. —This is a small vil- population is about 8,000. A number of lage, eleven miles southwest from Paines- ancient mounds formerly stood in the ville, the seat of Willoughby medical town and its vicinity. The Ohio canal college. This institution was incorpo- passes through the place, and stagerated in 1834, and has nine professors, coaches go daily for Zanesville, Columand about one hundred and thirty stu- bus, Maysville, and Portsmouth. dents. The lectures commence on the Chillicothe has been compared to last Monday in October. Philadelphia, in situation and plan, as ZANESVILLE enjoys a very handsome it stands on a plain, and the streets are situation, on the left bank of Muskingum regular, and the Scioto and Paint creeks river, seventy-three miles from Wheel- bounding it on both sides, as the Delaing, opposite the mouth of Licking river, ware and Schuylkill. But the surroundThe principal public buildings are the ing scenery is far- superior, and equalled courthouse, a market, two academies, a by but few other cities. The seat of bank, fourteen churches, and the athena- government of the Northwest territory um, with a reading-room and mineralogi- was established here in 1800, by an act cal cabinet. A fine bridge crosses the of Congress, and the business was done Muskingum, over which passes the na- in a log-house. The old statehouse tional road. The population is about (now the county courthouse) was com11,000. menced in 1S00, and is believed to be A succession of dams and locks ren- the first stone building erected in the DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OH0IO. 509 territory. In 1816, the seat of govern- referred to the first number of the Transment was removed to Columbus. actions of the Smithsonian Institute, PICKAWAY COUNTY was formed in now in the press, which contains a me1810, from Ross, Fairfield, and Frank- moir by Messrs. Davis and Squier, by lin counties, and contains the Pickaway whom many of the works in Ohio have plains, said to be the richest body of been recently and carefully surveyed lands in the state. The name is derived and excavated. from that of the Piqua Indians, a tribe LANCASTER is the county seat of l f the Shawnees. Here resided the Fairfield county, and is situated on a celebrated chiefs Logan and Cornplant- beautiful and fertile valley, on the el. The county abounds in plain and Hockhocking river and canal, and on fertile country, and the eye may fie- the Zanesville and Chillicothe turnpike. quently overlook an extent of five hun- It is twenty-eight miles southeast of dred acres of corn. The four varieties Columbus, and is a very flourishing of Ohio soil, nowever, are to be found town. It has seven churches, each one in different parts of the county, viz., belonging to a different denomination. woodland,barren, plain and prairie. The In 1S40, it numbered 2,120 inhabitants, barrens were formerly covered with and has since then rapidly increased. shrub-oak, and received their niame friom The land upon which this town now their supposed worthlessness. They stands, was, when first known to the have, however, proved to be very good settlers of Marietta, in the possession for grass and oats. The first settlers of the Wyandot Indians. Their princicame principally fiom Pennsylvania and pal town occupied a large part of the Virginia. The chief prod(lctions are tract on which Lancaster has since been corn, wheat, oats, grass, pork, wool, and; built. It is said that, in 1790, this town neat cattle. Many of the inhabitants of contained five hundred inhabitants, and a the west side of Scioto river are tenants. hundred wigwams. Its name, which was Population in 1850, 21,286.'Tarhe, or, in English, Crane town, was In 1774, Lord Dunmore marched named after the principal chief of the fiom Virginia with 3,000 men, to attack tribe. Near the fourth lock on the the Indian towns on the Pickaway Hockhocking canal, and not far from the plains, but one of his divisions was as- junction of a beautiful spring with the saulted in his camp, at the mouth of Hockhocking river, the hut of this chief the Kenhawa, now Point Pleasant, and stood. It was formed of the bark of barely succeeded in repulsing the sav- trees set on poles, with one square ages after a severe loss. The Indians opening, large enough to admit a man. at length sued for peace, after the army At this time the tribe numbered five had reached Old Chillicothe; and on hundred warriors. In 1795, the territory that occasion Logan made the speech was ceded by them to the United States, which has been so much celebrated as in the treaty of Greenville; after which a specimen of simple but pathetic elo- the larger number removed with their quence. His last days were melancholy. chief, to Upper Sandusky. He became addicted to intemperance, In 1797, a communication having been al Il wandered about the country, until opened with the eastern states, by what he was killed by an Indian whom he was called Zane's trace, many who had offended. were probably desirous of improving Among the principal towns in Picka- their condition in life, removed to this way county is Circleville which is else- spot, where, finding everything they where described. The ancient inhabit- could wish to make them (omfortable, ants, the builders of the mounds, appear they determined to fix their abode. to have made this part of the Scioto val- Captain Hunter, who in 1798, settled ley one of their most favorite abodes, as on the bank of the prairie, about one the remains of their works are abun- hundred and fifty yards northwest of dant. For a most authentic and com- the present turnpike, is considered as plete description of these, the reader is the founder of Fairfield county. L 510 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. April 3tb, 1803, Franklin was formed occasionally come up to this place at from Ross, and named fiom Benjamin high water. Franklin. The land is generally level, RoscoE stands opposite Coshocton, and the prevailing character of the soil on the west bank of the Muskingum, and is clay, and is very well adapted to gra- is connected with it by a bridge. It was zing, more so than to the cultivation of laid off in 1816, with the name of Calgrain, though on the water-courses, which dersburg by James Calder. The WValare very numerous, there are many honding canal extends fiom this place to well-cultivated and flourishing farms. Rochester, twenty-five miles distant. The staple productions are potatoes, Roscoe is a great dep6t for wheat, and hay, oats, corn, wheat, pork, and wool. has abundant water-power, supplied by In 1820, the population of Franklin was the canal. numbered at 10,300, and in 1840, it had The following villages are in this increased to 24,880; in 1850, 43,000. vicinity: EAST UNION, WEST CARLISLE, This tract of country was once occu- NEWCASTLE, ROCHESTER, WEST BEDpied by the Wyandot Indians, who cul- FORD, KEENE, NEW BEDFORD, EVANStivated the river bottoms and raised ex- BURGH, BIRMINGHAM, CHILI, JACOBSPORT, tensive fields of corn, opposite their LEWISVIWLE, PLA1NFIELD, VAN BUREN, town, which stood where the city of Co- ahd WARSAW. lumbus now stands. BvcYRvs, the capital of Crawford In the year 1780, a party of whites county, was laid out in 1822, by the pursued some Indians fiom the mouth first settler, Samuel Norton, who came of the Kanawha river, and overtook them fiom Pennsylvania in 1819. The counnear Columbus, gave them battle, and try then abounded in wild animals. overcame them. During the fight, two MASSILLON.-This village is situated squaws were observed to hide them- on the left bank of the Tuscarawas rivselves in a hollow tree; after the skir- er, and on the route of the Ohio canal. mish was over they were drawn out, and The public buildings are a bank and carried captives to Virginia. As lately seven churches, and the population is as 1845, this tree was standing on the about 2,000. west bank of the Scioto river. GRANVILLE, six miles from Newark, An old Wyandot chief, named Leather- has a college of the same name, sitlips, was executed in this county, in uated at the distance of a mile. It was 1810, on a charge of witchcraft. founded in 1832, and has four profesCOSHOCTON, the capital of Coshocton sors, twenty-five students, and a library county, has a fine situation on Muskin- of about three thousand volumes. The gum river, at the junction of the Tusca- commencement is held on the second rawas and WValhonding, eighty-three Wednesday iLn August. miles northeast of Columbus, and thirty NEWARK stands at the confluence of from Zanesville. The buildings are much the three branches of Licking river, and scattered over a fine piece of ground on the line of the Ohio canal, and also lying in four terraces, each rising about on that of the railroad from Sandusky nine feet above that below it, and the city to Columbus. A branch of the upper baing one thousand feet in latter it is intended to construct from e cadth. The public square is sixty this point to Zanesville. The public rods from the Muskingoum, and contains square is the most spacious and elegant four acres, planted with trees, and con- in the state. The town was laid out in taining the county buildings. 1801, on the plan of Newark, New JerThis town was laid out in 1802, by sey, by General William C. Schenk, Ebenezer Buckingham and John Mat- George W. Burnet, and John M. Cumthews, having been first settled a few mings, who were proprietors of this years previously. It contains four military section, embracing four thouchurches, two printing-offices, one wool- sand acres. The first house of hewed len factory, and a flour-mill, and in logs was erected in 1802, and the first 1850 had 800 inhabitants. Steamboats regular church edifice was built in DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 511 1817, by a presbyterian congregation, one woollen factory, one iron foundry, both on the public square. There are now and two machine shops. In 1850, the nine churches, three newspapers, two number of inhabitants was 2,000. grist-mills, one foundry, and a woollen BaTAVIA, the capital of Clermont factory, and the population in 1850 was county, is twenty-one miles east from 4,000. Cincinnati, and one hundred and three DAYTON.-This town is the capital southwest of Columbus, on the north of Montgomery county, and is situated bank of the east fork of Little Miami on the east side of Great Miami river, at river. It was laid out about the year the mouth of Mad river, and one mile 1820, by George Ely, and made the below the southwest branch. The dis- county seat in 1824. It contains two tance fiom Columbus is sixty-seven churches, and two printing-offices, and miles west, firom Cincinnati fifty-two, ha(, in 1850, 800 inhabitants. and one hundred and ten fiom Indian- XVILLIAMSBURG, seven miles east of apolis. It was proposed to build a Batavia, stands on the east branch of town here as early as 1788, by the name the Miami, and is a pleasant village. of Venice, the land lying within the con- There are several other small towns tract of John Cleves Symmes: but the in Clermont county: NEW RICHMOND, project failed in consequence of the Moscow, POINT PI.EASANT, NEVILLE, revolutionary war. In 1795, soon after and CEILO, all on the Ohio river: also XWayne's treaty, a company purchased BETHEL, FELICITY, and MILFORD. the land of Mr. Symmes, and the towii XILMINGTON.-This is the capital of was laid out on the 14th of November Clinton county, and a village belonging of that year. It was named after Gen- to the township of Union. It stands on eral Jonathan Dayton, Springfield, New Todd's fork, and is seventy-two miles Jersey, the leader of the enterprise. The southwest fiom Columbus, on a tract first nineteen settlers arrived on the of undulated ground. It contains five 1st of April of the year following. Some churches, a printing-office, a high-school, of the settlers were afterward obliged and about 1,500 inhabitants. It was to purchase titles from the government, settled chiefly by families from North in consequence of the inability of Carolina, and the first church was built Symmes to fulfil his contract. The by baptists. Miami canal, commenced in 1827, which The following villages are in this has been of great benefit to the town. neighborhood: CLARKESVILLE, nine Both the town and the country stood miles southwest of Wilmington; MARthe second in the state, in point of taxa- TIN;SVILLE, nine miles south; PORT VWILble property, in 1846. LIAM, nine miles north; NEW VIENNA, The first canal-boat fiom Cincinnati eleven miles southeast; and BURLINGarrived at Dayton on the 25th of Janu- TON, eleven miles northwest. SAnINA, ary, 1829, and the first from Lake Erie SLIGO, BLANCHESTER, CUBA, LEWISon June 24, 1845. The first line of VILLE, WESTBORO', CENTREVILLE, and stage-coaches fiom Cincinnati to Co- MIIORRISVILLE, are small. lumbus, weekly, was established in 1825, CLINTON COUNTY was organized in and were two days on the way. There 1810, and named after Governor George are now three daily lines. Clinton, of New York, vice-president URBANA, forty-two miles west-north- of the United States. It has a level west from Columbus, is the capital of surface, and a rich soil, well adapted Champaign county, and was laid out in to grass and corn, with some prairie 1805, by Colonel William Ward, who land. The streams afford a good supgave lots for public buildings. The ply of water-power. The chief producfirst church was of logs, and built by tions are corn, oats, wheat, wool, and methodists in 1807. pork. The population, in 1850, was Some handsome houses are now built 18,837, or fiity to a square mile. It in the environs of the town, which con- was first settled in about 1803, chiefly tains four churches, two printing-offices, by people from Kentucky, Pennsylva- I. S PI Ij*512 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. nia, and North Carolina. William town. The first meeting of the grandl Smally was the first white inhabitant, jury was held October 3, 1804, under in 1797. a sugar-tree. SPRINGFTELD, forty-three miles west of Zenia now contains eight churches, Columbus, is the county town of Clarke a bank, a classical academy, two newscounty. It stands on the national road, paper printing-offices, and about 4,000 and the river road from Cincinnati to inhabitants. Sandusky City passes through it. It was SIDNEY, the capital of Shelby county, laid out in 1803, by James Demint, and was laid out so recently as 1819, on the is remarkably beautiful and advanta- farm of Charles Starrett, on a piece of geously situated. The adjacent region table-land, on the west side of Miami is fertile and picturesque, and the peo- river. The court was held there the pie are very intelligent and moral; so following year, and the first fiame buildthat it is one of the most agreeable pla- ing was erected in 1820. The first ces for residence in the state. The east newspaper was printed in 1836. The fork of Mad river, which borders it on courthouse stands on a fine square in the north, is an excellent mill-stream, the centre of the town, and the number never failing in the driest seasons. The of churches is five. There are three Lagonda, or Buck creek, flows through flour and four saw-mills, and two carding the town, which also affords good water- and fulling-mills. The population probpower; and there are more than twenty ably now amounts to about 2,000. mill-seats within three miles of Spring- VAN BUREN, a township in Shelby 11 field. county, is remarkable for containing a The main street is broad and fine, large and prosperous settlement of colbeing ornamented with the courthouse, ored people, numbering about four huna church, and the academy. The high- dred. The land is not well situated, school is flourishing, and under the di- being low and wet; but the inhabitants rection of the Methodist conference of are industrious, moral, and careful for Ohio. There is a lyceum, which has the education of their children, being existed about fifteen years; and the pub- as prosperous as their white neighbors. lic libraries contain about four thousand They have also churches of their own. volumes. There are nine churches, two In 1846, the slaves emancipated by the printing-offices, and a variety of manu- will of the celebrated John Randolph, factories. The population is about 6,000. came to this place, and attempted to Wittemberg College, situated half a settle permanently, after they had been mile fiom Springfield, has twenty-four driven from Mercer county, but the acres of fine grounds, and stands in the white neighbors drove them off by viomidst of beautiful scenery. It is a Lu- lence, and compclled them to scatter theran institution, and is organized on a about the country. broad plan, with collegiate and theo- PORT JEFFERSON, five miles northeast logical departments, and provision for of Sidney, stands at the head of the six professorships. It commenced op- feeder supplied by Miami river to the erations in 1846, with about seventy Miami canal, a distance of thirteen students. miles. It contains about fifty houses, XENIA.-This town, the capital of two churches, &c. Greene county, is situated sixty-four The following villages are in this vimiles north of Cincinnati, and sixty-one cinity: tIARDIN, five miles west of Sidfrom Columbus, and has broad streets ney; NEWPORT, twelve miles west; with fine houses, and considerable ad- BERLIN, sixteen miles west-northwest; vantages for business. It was laid out HoUSTON, eleven miles west-southwest; in 1803, on land belonging to John LocKPonT, eight miles south; and PALPaul, who gave a large square for pub- ESTINE, nine miles east. lic buildings. The first cabin was HAMILTON, the capital of Butler counerected the next year, by John Mar- ty, is twenty-two miles north of Cincinshall, in the southwest corner of the nati, stands on the left bank of the DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO 513 Great Miami. It contains sevcn church- Iof increase has occurred in the west es, a flourishing female academy, two generally. newspaper printing-offices, three flour- The pork packed at Cincinnati comes mills, three saw-mills, three cotton facto- exclusively from Ohio, Kentucky, and ries, and two machine shops, and had a Indiana. The supplies fiom all these population of 2,000 in 1850; since quarters were immense. On one road which it has increased considerably, and leading to Cincinnati fiom Indiana, seems destined to be a large manufac- about 70,000 hogs crossed the Miamituring town. Large hydraulic works town bridge. There are other bridges have been erected, which rank among over the Miami, on roads leadingfriom the best west of the Alleganies. The Indiana. water is brought four miles, fiom the For about two months, the passage of Great Miami, by a canal, and is suffi- hogs up the leading streets, fiom the cient for two hundred run of four and a Ohio river, seemed to be almost conhalf mill-stones. stant. So, also, the turnpikes coming in MAUMEE CITY, the capital of Lucas fiom Ohio indicate the same state of county, is one hundred and twenty-four facts. miles northwest fiom Columbus, and That we may have an idea of the caeight south of Toledo. It was laid out pacity of these states to increase the in 1817, in the old reservation of twelve number of hogs brought to market, take miles square, at the foot of the rapids the following statement. The first table of the Maumee, which was granted to contains the amount for 1840, the second the Indians in 1795. The site of the an estimate for 1850. town is at the head of navigation oppo- 1840. Hogs. Corn. site Perrysburg and Fort Meigs, on the Ohio, 2,099,746 33,668,144 bush. Wabash and Erie canal.'The ground Kentucky, 2,310,533 39.847,120 " is about one hundred feet above the Indiana, 1,623,608 28,155,887 " AMaumee, which here makes a fine, broad bend, fi'om which the banks rise Total, 6,033,887 101,671,131 bush. like a vast amphitheatre, about two In 1840, then, the farmers of these three miles long and one mile wide. A beau- states had six millions of hogs, and more tiful island of two hundred acres, and than a hundred millions of bushels of several smaller ones, ornament the sur- corn. They could have fatted two millface of the river. ions of those hogs, and sent them to marThe French had a trading post a lit- ket, on forty millions of bushels of corn. tie below the town, as early as the year 1850. Hogs. Corn. 1680, where the English built a fort in Ohio, 2,500,000 50,000,000 bush. 1794; the place was a favorite resort of Kentucky, 2,500,000 45,000,000 " the Indians. The ruins of the latter fort Indiana, 2,000,000 40,000,000 " still remain. A part of Wayne's battle was fought within the limits of this Total, 7,000,000 135,000,000 bush. town; and the British erected several There are in the United States batteries below the town, in the late 30,000,000 of hogs. This is about fifwar, during the siege of Fort Meigs. teen times the number usually slaughThese were taken by storm by Colonel tered in the whole country for market Dudley, on the 5th of May, 1813; but in one year. Hogs grow upon full size he was afterward driven back and de- in less than two years. It follows, then, feated. from these facts, that there must be at The Pork Trade of the TIVest.-More least five times as many hogs in the than four hundred thousand hogs had country that might be fatted for market, been packed in Cincinnati, up to the as really are. month of January, 1848, for the season The west being peculiarly adapted to of 1847-'8 —an unprecedented number, the cultivation of Indian corn (the best even for that place. With the excep- food for fattening hogs), renders the raistion of a very few places, the same rate ing of hogs a very profitable business. 33 514 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. I..'I MICHIGAN. ~p~B ~THIS state consists of two great peninsulas, and presents a form and position unlike any other state -0 8| s JlLin the Union. It might be compared with Maryland and Virginia, in respect to the separation of its parts by water; but it is different from them in lying far in the inlet and the Saut de Sainte Marie on the northeast; Lake Huron on the east, with the west end of Lake Erie on the southeast, with Lake Clair and the outlet of Huron, Ohio and Indiana on the south; Lake Michigan and Wisconsin on the west. The advantages offered to commerce and trade by the natural features of the country, and to internal improvements, are equalled only by the agricultural facilities and mineral wealth of some parts of the territory. There are several good harbors along the borders of the lakes and their coves, which also abound with fish; copper mines, of great extent and richness, abound along the shores, on Lakes Huron and Superior; and railroads have already been constructed nearly across the isthmus of the grand peninsula. This grand peninsula is divided into two inclined planes, by a continuation of the ridge of land which separates the water of the Wrabash and the great Miami and Maumee-one of them sloping toward Lake Huron, drained by the rivers Raisin, Huron, Erie, Rouge, Huron of St. Clair, Bell, Black, Saginaw, Thunder, Cheboiang, &c.; and the other sloping toward Lake Michigan, and crossed by DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 515 the St. Joseph's, Kalamazoo, Grand riv- Detroit, to near Lake Huron on the St. er, and many of smaller size. All the Clair river, and for about thirty miles rivers have a fall from the table-land. in the interior. As we advance westThe mouths of these streams generally ward, the soil, with more or less excepafford harbors of different depth and tion, gradually changes to a gravelly size, while few other parts are to be or sandy loam, and in some instances found along the shores, although the acquires these characteristics to so dedepth of the lakes is sufficient for all the cided an extent as seriously to interfere purposes of commerce, and canals to with its permanent fertility. This is facilitate the passage, Detroit river, &c., universally true of the large quantities will hereafter render commerce still of the oak-openings, which so generally more extensive. The whole line of pervade the interior and western part coast on the different lakes, including of the state. These lands will bear a the sinuosities, is probably one thousand few good first crops; but manures must miles. The shores of Superior and Hu- follow close upon their heels, or exron are much more irregular than those haustion and sterility are as certain as of Michigan. Saginaw bay is a gulf, blighted leaves after autumnal frosts. sixty miles in length. There are some moderately good corn In point of soil, the best part of the lands among this class of soils, and most grand peninsula is in the south, toward of it excellent for wheat; but all the G;io and Indiana, the upper portion be- agricultural vigilance of a long-cultiing rather barren. The surface is but vated country must be generally adoptslightly varied, with a succession of ed, or diminished crops will soon drive oak-openings and rolling country, often the occupants into the uncultivated respotted with small hollows and ponds gions still farther west. There are many called cat-holes. exceptions to these remarks, and none HISTORY.-This state was first visited more so than a considerable part of the by the French fiom Canada; and De- beautiful valley of the Kalamazoo, whose troit (or "the strait") was founded in rich and gracefully undulating fields,. 1670. But it was a small town when clad with their native burr-oak, give unceded to the United States by the treaty failing promise of abundant wheat-fields of Paris. It was not before 1796 that for years to come. this country was given up to the United "There are other and extensive porStates; it was formed into a territory tions of the state, possessing considerin 1805; in 1812 was occupied by the able fertility, which yet remain to be British troops; recovered in 1813 by occupied, and which, in the inevitable General Harrison; and soon after the progress of things, will ere long be setreturn of peace, became one of the prin- tled, and swell the tide of her populacipal objects of emigration, and was tion and wealth, to a respectable approxgreatly favored by the opening of the imation toward her elder sisters. Erie canal. Fort Brady was built in " Sheep husbandry is making consid1822, when the settlement of Chippe- erable progress in the state, and promway county, the north part, commenced. ises soon to furnish no inconsiderable POPULATION.-In 1820 Michigan con- proportion of the aggregate of her octained only 8,896 inhabitants; but in cupation. Depredations from wolves 1830, 28,000; and in 1850, 395,576. seem already to offer no serious impediThe following remarks on the soil ment to this department of the farmer. and agriculture of the state, are from a " Wheat is the product of the state, recent number of the American Agri- and on this the farmers principally rely culturist:- for their available exports. Never did "A considerable portion of the east- their efforts receive a greater reward ern part of Michigan consists of a clay than the present season. The estimate soil, and is well adapted to grass and of several judicious citizens is, that the grazing. This quality of land extends crop fully averaged twenty bushels per from a point some thirty miles south of acre over the state. I was informed of L ____L 51G DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. a wheat field containing one hundred less numerous); and open "prairies," acres, which averaged over forty-five or vast natural meadows, with heavy brushels per acre, and one measured acre belts of forest intersecting and dividing of which produced over sixty bushels. them, usually on the courses of the A cargo of this year's crop fiom Mich- streams, or on wet marshy ground. The igan averaged one barrel of flour for prairies, especially all the largest and every two hundred and twenty-four finest, are generally found in the southpounds of wheat." ern half of the state, and more of them vrithin eight years the population of west than east of a line drawn through Michigan must have increased at least its centre. These are pretty easily subfifty per cent., while its area of land un- dued and abundantly fertile; the oak der cultivation and the amount of its lands are "brought to" with more laannual product have probably more than bor, but also yield largely both wheat doubled. The export of its great sta- and corn. ple wheat (either in the berry or in Aside from its general depth and ferflour), from the last crop will more than tility, much of the soil is strongly imquadruple that from any crop prior to pregnated with lime, which accounts for 1839. Its annual production of corn its partiality to wheat. The low and and other grains, of cattle and sheep, of luxuriously timbered lands (usually with wool and the products of the dairy, of elm, cucumber, basswood, &c.) have not ashes, &c., is also very considerable; to any great extent been cleared as yet, but wheat is the great staple of Mich- being most stubborn and least inviting; igan, and will doubtless continue so, but here also the soil in the main is unless the ravages of the Hessian fly, strong. Yet even Detroit appears to now reported as terrible, shall be per- be closely hemmed in to landward by petuated. the primitive forest, which still covers The situation of this state is peculiar. probably five sixths of the nearest hunAlmost surrounded by water, old Mich- dred square miles. igan-the grand peninsula-is bounded On the west side of the state, eson three sides by the lakes Erie, St. pecially around Saginaw bay, there are Clair, Huron, and Michigan, with the extensive forests of choice pine; and straits connecting them, and having In- far in the North is a great abundance of diana on the south. The face of the poor land —extensive sterile swamps and country is remarkably level, and the marshes, checkered by barren knolls soil mainly of a decided fertility. The and hillocks. But nobody thinks of setlatter may be said to be naturally di- tling in that bleak, forlorn region, and vided into dry and wet prairie,'tim- the great portion of' the soil north of a bered openings' (upland) and a heavy line drawn through the centre of the proportion of low, flat, wet land, most state is good, as nearly all south of that of which will be dry enough when thor- line is. Very few states exceed this in oughly cleared and cultivated, but which agricultural capacity, either in the agis, as yet, rather swampy-often de'- gregate, or acre to acre. cidedly so. All around, on the three The absence of mountains or anysides bordering on the lakes and straits, thing like them through the greater part there is a belt of flat land, a little ele- of the state, is by no means an unminvated above the water level, and very gled good. It is the cause of a palpable heavily timbered. Inside of this, the deficiency of springs and running streams land gradually rises and becomes gently through the better portion of the state, rolling, being divided into " oak-open- and of a decided deficiency of navigable ings (having two or three dozen small waters within the state, though it is so and middling oak-trees to the acre, with nobly provided with them externally. any quantity of oak-bushes and roots, But this again is compensated to a great and an indifferent show of wild grasses); extent by the signal facilities everywhere "timbered openings" (on which thel presented for the construction of canals oak-trees are much more, and the bushes I and railroads, especially the latter. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 517 Thus tempted, the state undertook, creed terminus is to occupy, for a conabout the year 1836, the construction siderable distance, what is now part of of three lines of railroad across the pen- the river, which is to be filled in for the insula-the central, stretching hence to purpose. By this means vessels will Lake Michigan near the mouth of the load and unload directly from the deSt. Joseph; the southern,-from the Mau- p6t, whereas now there is a necessity mee near Toledo due westward; and of carting every barrel and bale somo the northern. On the two former a very two hundred rods, involving serious exconsiderable beginning had been made pense and waste. On these works a when the state fell into pecuniary em- large number of men are now employed barrassments, in part owing to the mag- here. nitude of her undertaking, and somewhat The southern railroad (a much ruder to a change in the times. The southern and less promising work) has been or is road was arrested; the central road to be sold for half a million of dollars of was feebly and haltingly prosecuted, fed state liabilities, in order that it likewise by the sale of state lands and the issue may be pressed onward to completion. of treasury warrants, which sold at a The usual time of departure from BufruiLous depreciation; and of the rev- faloisintheevening. Lake Erieistravenue accruing on the completed portion ersed in about twenty-four hours, stopof the road or roads, nearly all was ab- ping at Cleveland and Detroit. Passing sorbed. Such was the condition of these the beautiful Detroit and St. Clair rivworks when, more than a year since, the ers, and the wide-spreading and difficult state decided to offer the central road, flats of the latter, you enter Huiron, and just as it stood, for sale for two millions stretching along an unbroken wilderof dollars of her acknowledged debt, ness coast for hundreds of miles, paswhich then was worth in the market sing Saginaw bay and the Thunder bay something less than one million dollars. islands, reach Mackinaw, the resort of The offer was accepted by a club of all who delight to enjoy a glimpse of its Bostonians, the payment made, the road solitary loveliness, or to breathe its pure, transferred, and instantly placed under cool, and invigorating atmosphere. This very different management. The re- (including the time to wood) occupies ceipts of the completed portion rapidly two days and a half. Thence passing increased, expenses were curtailed, and the straits of Michilimackinac, and the the work on the unfinished portion vig- Manitou islands, the boat pushes either orously stimulated, payment therefor across Lake Michigan to Sheboigan, being made promptly and in cash. Al- Milwaukie, &c., or passing up Green bay, ready the road is in operation to Kala- and stopping at, or catching glimpses mazoo, more than half way across the of, its innumerable islands in all their state, and it is to be entirely completed greenness and beauty, reaches Navarino. at farthest within the next year. Al- Returning through the passage called ready the finished portion pays a liberal " Death's Door," and again entering and rapidly increasing profit on its cost Lake Michigan, the voyage is pursued to the company, whose stock is at a high to Chicago, stopping at Milwaukie, Rapremium, and can rarely be bought at cine, and Southport-the populous and all. Already preparations are being rapidly-growing creations of the lake made for relaying the old track, now commerceandwesternsettlements: thus very imperfect, with a new and im- terminating the voyage where nature proved rail; while in the city large pur- and art combine to fix the seat of a great chases of real estate have been made city-now rapidly rising as such, and by the company, mainly on the river or combining in a remarkable degree the strait just below the present centre of elements of commerce, business, society, trade, including a water-firont of sixteen and refinement. In short, nothing can hundred feet, on which a gigantic freight exceed the upspringing vigor of such and a passenger dep6t are to be erected, cities as Buffalo, Milwaukie, Racine, while the track of the railroad to its de- and Chicago; and no one can predict 518 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. perhaps with too glowing a prospective ances which impelled the people of the the destiny of the mighty region now west to ask their fellow-citizens generjust springing into life and being. ally to meet them in convention at ChiThe voyage to Chicago, via Green cago, in 1847, to consider the general bay, may be made in five days or less, subject of river and harbor improvement. according to the delays at the places The banks of the St. Clair river are and points of interest on the route. The low and level, generally well wooded, distance is about 1,350 miles. except where settlement has driven back Returning, the excursion may be ex- the forest for a mile or less. The Britteaded, with additional gratification, ish side appears highest, driest, and most from Mackinac to the Sault St. Marie, settled. A part of it has been peopled or even far up into Lake Superior and by white men for fifty or sixty yearsthe mineral region. At least the trip to as a good part of our bank of the DeChicago should be taken by all who de- troit river and Lake St. Clair has for sire to understand, not only the breadth even a longer period. The old settlers and scope of these inland waters, and are of French origin, and are wedded the cities on their borders, but the teem- to old customs; they are seldom seen ing population —the great and rapidly- out of their settlements. The largest advancing free states-to which they and most active village on either side afford the avenues of a commerce and for a hundred miles above Detroit is intercommunication, already of gigantic Newport, in St. Clair county, famed for extent, and the mighty progress of which steamboat and ship building. Saginaw, the most sanguine may not fully predict. a thrifty lumbering village at the botLake St. Clair.-The St. Clair flats tom of Saginaw bay, much further up, are formed by the division of the waters is larger, but far away from the steamnwhich issue from Lake Huron through boat route to Mackinac or the Sault. the St. Clair river, by two or three low DETROIT.-This city is situated in marshy islands, forming three or four latitude 42~ 20' and Jongitude 60 west channels or branches, within and just of Washington, on the shore of Detroit below which division the water, being river, which is the outlet of Lake Huwide, has in some places a depth of ron into Lake St. Clair, which lies midonly six or eight feet, or something less way between it and Lake Erie. The than a steamboat will draw, if built river is above a mile in breadth, and stanch enough for the lake trade and divided into channels by Peach island, tolerably loaded. Of course they gen- and below by Grand Turkey island. erally get aground, and, there being no The town stands on an inclined plane, tide in the lakes, have no choice but to rising thirty feet; most of the streets remain aground until a good part of their are regularly laid out at right angles, freight can be transferred to flatboats but obliquely to the bank of the river; termed "lighters," which are on hand, there are several fine, broad avenues, ready to be serviceable for a considera- and the situation for trade is highly adtion. Fifty thousand dollars well ap- vantageous. It contains the old stateplied here would dredge out a deep and house, city-hall, a markethouse, eleven wide channel, and the current is so very churches, four banks, masonic-hall, a gentle that it would not move the sand land-office, two orphan-asylums, three back again. Yet for want of this fifty female academies, several literary socithousand dollars (vetoed in the harbor eties, and twenty-five thousand inhabitbill), the farmers, whose produce, and ants. The first steamboat arrived here the emigrants, whose families, as well as in 1818. the merchant, whose goods, must trav- The growth of this city has taken erse the lakes-are put to an expense, the healthy form of expansion in every including that of delays, probably not landward direction, instead of the too less in one year than the entire cost of common mode of accommodating an indredging out a clear and durable chan- creasing population by filling up the nel. Such is one of the many griev- interstices between old houses with new ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_I —- -- -. - ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ -'.,____ —---— ~ —-~1: - ~_,- - _-_,~~-=- - - ~- - - -;T-_ - -- -- -s -- -- -- -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-. —-~ —~-'~ —---- - in - - - - __ —- --- ---— ~ _=IT=1=__:_- - ---- - — = —-- - = —f~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~111In z ~ ~~~~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ i I _ - __ _ (II~~_ I- -1 _ ____ fir~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~L View of Detroit. 520 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. ones, and putting one on the top of A branch of the university of Michianother. Nearly all the dwellings stand gan is established in Monroe. healthfully apart, and each surrounded MARSHALL, on Kalamazoo river, at the by its little garden or grass and flower mouth of Rice creek, is one hundred plat, evincing a fondness for shrubbery and thirteen miles west of Detroit. It ani the minor poetry of nature. Many contains a bank, four churches, an acadoi the streets are thickly set with rows emy, and a number of mills and manuof young maples, in some instances two factories, with about 4,000 inhabitants. rows on one side of a wide avenue, Cars start daily for Detroit and Kalamawhich will in a few years add greatly to zoo. the beauty and comfort of Detroit, es- KALAMAZOO.-This town is situated pecially of its favorite promenades. All on the left bank of the river of the same around are signs of growth and pros- name, at the distance of one hundred perity, to which the development of the and forty-six miles west from Detroit, mineral wealth of the Lake Superior with which it has a daily communicaregion has already, though in its infancy, tion by the railroad. There are three given some impetus, and is destined to churches, a land-office, a courthouse, and give far more. The only counterpoise a branch of the university. to this is the removal, last winter, of ST. JoSEPH'S is two hundred miles the state government to a township in west of Detroit, on the bank of the river Ingham coutnty, named Lansing, seventy of that name, at its mouth in Lake Erie. miles northwest of Detroit, wherein is A part of the town looks out upon the the confluence of the Red Cedar creek lake, where is a good harbor. It is a with Grand river, which latter, how- place of increasing importance, and conever, does not become navigable until tains a courthouse, three churches, a far below this. The location on a cor- bank, and a population of about 900. It ner of a county, in a township as yet has daily communication with Chicago mainly in primitive wilderness, remote by steamboat, and stages run to the Defrom natural or artificial, present or troit railroad; and stage-coaches run to prospective facilities of travel and trans- Chicago through " Michigan city." portation, created much surprise at first. MACKINAC.-This town is situated on Yet the site is pretty central to the the southeast extremity of Mackinac whole state, not specially objectionable island. The public buildings are the on any ground, and the selection seems courthouse, two churches, a school of at present to be pretty generally acqui- the American board of commissioners esced in. for foreign missions, a Roman catholic Agents transport flour hence by way missionary school, and a branch of the of the Welland canal, Lake Ontario, the university. It has over 1,000 inhabitants. St. Lawrence to Montreal, the railroad, The harbor is large enough for one hunLake Champlain and the Champlain dred and fifty vessels, and a valuable canal, to Albany and New York, for the fishery is carried on, which supplies present charge from Buffalo to New a considerable export trade, above three York. thousand barrels of white-fish and trout MONROE is on the right bank of the being sent out annually. A considerariver Raisin, two and a half miles from ble amount of business is annually done its mouth and Lake Erie, and thirty- in the fur trade. seven miles from Detroit. It has two Mackinac consists of three slight banks, a land-office, a courthouse, seven wooden piers, a water street and a back churches, two academies, a reading- street, with perhaps sixty houses on room and library of fifteen hundred vol- both. The fort stands to the right of umes, and a number of manufactories. the village, on the brow of the eminence, The number of inhabitants is about is built of a porous, shelly limestone, 5,000. Cars set off every day for Hills- and has a tolerable command of the dale, through Adrian; and stage-coaches main passage out of Lake Michigan into daily for Detroit, and for Toledo, Ohio. Lake Huron; but it happens to be it A~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_..~'.. ~i',, -' ~ -- --—', ~ ~ ~= i 522 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. self commanded by a higher eminence, fish has taken their place. The mera mile west of it, which the British si- chants are interested in the businesslently seized and fortified at the out- all of them more or less. But few of break of the war of 1812, placing guns them, however, are engaged in catching there in battery and summoning our them. They generally sell or let nets, commandant to surrender before he sus- furnish barrels and salt, and then purpected even that war was declared. chase of the fishermen after they are Mackinac has a commanding view of packed. Lakes Michigan and Huron, with the surrounding isles, headlands and bays. FISH PACKED AT MACKINAC AND VICINITY. The air is very pure, and there is some Year. White-Fish. Trout. Total. timber, but it is mainly covered with 1835 1,200 - 1,700 low, shrub-like evergreens-fir, spruce, 1837 1,600 &c. It is among the coldest spots with- 1840 3,250 750 4,000 1841 4,500 500 5,000 in the limits of our Union. The apple- 1842 6,275 1,425 7,700 tree blossoms, but does not bear there, 1843 9,800 2,110 11,910 any more than at the Sault. 1844 12,200 3,575 15,775 The soil is mostly gravelly and rock 1845 10150 4,270 19,420 of a limestone nature. In traversing 1846 16000 20000 the island, which is about ten miles These fish were packed and shipped in circumference, we findbutthree farms, from this place, and were taken at St. and they not much laid under cultivation. Croix, Grande Traverse, Little Traverse, Farming, however, must be profitable; L'Arbre Croche, and fishing grounds ada ready market being at hand in the joining. It will be seen that the trade village, which now contains by estima- is flourishing, and in a little over ten tion not far from 1,000 inhabitants, who years has increased from 1,700 barrels are mostly engaged in fishing. to 20,000. The village, within the past five years, The fishing, however, on the upper has begun to wear a greatly improved lakes, is not confined to this place and appearance, several good buildings hav- vicinity. Other points on Lakes Huron ing been erected, which are neatly and Michigan are profiting by it. We painted, and several new ones now go- append the statistics of the business at ing up. All the upper lake steamers SAULT ST. MARIE AND LAKE SUPERIOR. and sail craft stop at the wharf for an Year. White-Fish. Trout. Total. hour or two to wood. bbls. bbls. bbls Usually there are a number of Indi- 1835 2,3U0 ans visiting the village from the main 18370 8,000 4,000 2,00 0 1840 8,000 4,000 12,000 shores. They come in their bark ca- 1841 7,000 3,000 10,000 noes, freighting poles, bark, and matting, 1842 7,500 3,000 10,500 for a temporary wigwam. They pitch 1843 2,500 500 3,000 their tent on the beach during their stay, 1845 2,100 250 2,350 1846 1,550 175 1,725 and are gazed at most intently by the passengers. Apparently they are all During the years 1841 and 1842, the happy. Songs and laughter emanate American Fur Company met with from them in the evening, echoing over heavy losses in the fish trade on Lake the broad expanse of waters. Many of Superior, and they abandoned the busithe " curiosity" wares are made by the ness. Since then it has been carried on squaws, and bartered with the merchants by various individuals on a small scale, for provisions. The sales of these curi- and will not probably regain its former osities to strangers can not be less than flourishing condition until a canal is $15,000 annually. constructed around the falls of St. Marie. The imports of the place are now es- On the St. Mary's river, in the neightimated at $150,000 annually. The ex- borhood of St. Joseph's, on the British ports for a great number of years have side, the business is carried on largely, been mostly furs. This trade declining, which goes to the Canada market. The,. DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 523 catch is generally from 6,000 to 8,000 per and lower town by the river, and barrels yearly. the elevated ground which it occupies At Beaver island and vicinity, on Lake makes the situation a fine one. It conHuron, a large quantity is taken annu- tains a bank, courthouse, six churches, ally. A gentleman in the trade is of and a number of manufactories, with opinion that 10,000 barrels will be about 3,500 inhabitants. packed this season. The University of 3Michigan, situated At False Presque isle, Thunder bay, here, was founded in 1837, and has and vicinity, last season, 12,000 barrels three professors, about eighty students, were furnished for the Ohio market. and libraries containing about five thouOf the business at Green bay, Drum- sand volumes. The cabinets contain mon's island, Three rivers, the Manistee, valuable collections made by the state Shoboigan and Racine rivers, Saginaw naturalists. bay, and other grounds, we are without YPSILANTI.-This town also stands particular information. An old fisher- on Huron river, which furnishes valuaman estimates the quantity packed at ble water-power at this place. Here these places last season at 20,000 bar- are several mills and manufactories, four rels. This is considered a lowv estimate. churches, and about 2,500 inhabitants. The following is a recapitulation for Railroads afford daily communication 1846, in barrels: Mackinac and vicini- with Detroit and Kalamazoo. ty, 20~000; St. Marie and vicinity, 1,725; JACKSON stands on the right bank of Beaver island and vicinity, 10,000; Grand river, seventy-nine miles west of Presque isle, Thunder bay, &c.,12,000; Detroit, and contains about 3,000 inother places on Lakes IIuron and Mich- habitants. The public buildings are a igan, 20,000; Canada side, estimate, courthouse, four churches, an academy, 15,000; total, 78,725. and the state penitentiary, with a branch In addition to barrelling, at several of the university. Cars go daily for points, large quantities are boxed daily Detroit and Kalamazoo. in ice and shipped to Chicago, Milwau- ADRIAN.-This town is on the right kie, Detroit, Toledo, Cleveland, and bank of Raisin river, at the distance of Buffalo, on sale. The sales at Macki- sixty-seven miles from Detroit, and connac for the consumption of steamers tains four churches, a courthouse, an passing, is no small item. It amounts academy, a number of manufactories, to not far from one hundred dollars' mills, &c., and a population of about worth per week. The whole catch of 3,500. Railcars go daily to Toledo, all the lakes may, therefore, be safely Hillsdale, and Monroe. estimated at 100,000 barrels. When an Saut de Sainte Mary, or falls of St. access to Lake Superior is easy by Mary (familiarly called the Soo) stands canal, that almost unexplored lake will on high ground on the right bank of St. annually furnish an equal quantity. Mary's strait, just below the falls, or The number of barrels required gives rapids. Here are Fort Brady, the traemployment to at least three to four ding-house of the American Fur comhundred persons in their construction. pany, three churches, and a courthouse. The salt consumed is an item of conse- The population is about one thousand. quence to commerce, and the freight is The organization of copper compaworthy of note. The business may now nies commenced here in 1845, and durbe considered at half a million of dol- ing the past year at least one hundred lars per year. A canal completed at the were formed. Many of them are good, Sault would swell it in five years to a but not a few of them will prove mere million. bubbles. Those who have commenced ANN ARBOR is situated on both sides working on their locations meet with of Huron river, forty miles west of De- great encouragement. Eight hundred troit, with which it has daily communi- and ninety-six permits for location have cation by the railroad, and also with been granted by government. The comKalamazoo. It is divided into the up- panies that have actually commenced 524 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. work, or have left men in charge as set- dred tons of ore has been raised from tle', are entitled to pre-emption, under one vein; forty tons of it was shipped the late law for the sale of the lands. to New York last fall, of which the Of this class, there are not probably Waterbury (Connecticut) brass foundry more than twenty-five companies, and smelted five tons and obtained forty-five they cover much territory, some (,fthem per cent. of pure copper. An ingot of as many as twenty-five permits, or sec- it was rolled there for platers' use withtions. Those thathold pre-emptions get out annealing, which can not be done their lands at two dollars and a half per with even English refined cake-coppers. acre; the others at five dollars. Rising A smelting establishment has been erectof twenty companies have expended ed. much money in mining operations-one The Northwestern company have sunk company over one hundred thousand a shaft to a considerable depth, and a dollars, and others from five to fifty thou- large quantity of vein-stone, containing sand. Of the ultimate success of their copper, has been raised. operations, few who have visited the The Bohemian company commenced country have any do'ubt. The enter- exploring their location in 1846. A prise is necessarily atterded with heavy vein of gray sulphuret, of great richoutlays at the commencement, for ma- ness, was found. chinery and mining implements. Prince's mine raised a considerable It is but a few years si:ce nearly all amount of ore, which has been sent to the iron and lead consumed in this coun- England for analysis. It is supposed try was imported. It was with the ut- that it contained much silver. The bed most difficulty that capitalists could be is worked vigorously this season. persuaded to embark in it. The lead A company in New York and Philamines on the Mississippi lay dormant delphia have sent a German geologist for years, Cft want of confidence in their up the country, to erect smeltino works productiveness. The ex,